liliiiiliililiiiiiiil % 6 NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE '^ OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, COMMANDED BY THE LATE CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.E.S. &c. DURING THE YEARS 1846-1850. INCLUDING DISCOVERIES AND SURVEYS IN IS-EW aiJINEA, THE LOIJISIADE AECHIPELAaO, ETC. TO WHICH IS ADDED THE ACCOUNT OF ME. E. B. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION FOP. THE EXPLORATTOX OF THE CAPE TORE: PE]!nNSULA. BY JOHN MACGILLIVEAY, F.R.G.S. NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. rUBLISHED UNDER THE Sanction of tl;t aovtKss Commt^^ioncv^ of ti)f ^bmiraltj). IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STEEET. 1852. '"X TO M E S. STANLEY, AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT TO THE MEMORY OF HER SON, UNDER WHOSE DIRECTION THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE WERE SUCCESSFULLY ACCOMPLISHED. PREFACE. It was orig-inally intended that an account of the Surveymg* Voyag*e of H.M.S. Eattlesnake should have been undertaken conjomtly by the late Captam Owen Stanley and myself^ in which case the narrative would have been constructed from the materials afforded by the journals of both^ and the necessary remarks upon liydrogTaphical subjects would have been furnished by that officer, whose lamented death in March^ 1850^ prevented this arrang-ement from being- carried out. Not having* had access to Captain Stanley's private journals^ I considered myself fortunate^ when the Lords Com- missioners of the Admiralty — in addition to sanc- tioning* the publication of my account of the Yoyag'e in question — directed that every facility should be afforded me in consulting' the manuscript charts and other hydrog'raphical results at their disposal^ and to Rear- Admiral Sir F. Beaufort^ C.B.^ Commander yi PREFACE. C. B. Yule^ R.N.^ and Lieut. J. Dayman^ B.N.^ I beg* to express my thanks for the Hberal manner in which they carried out their Lordships' intentions. To the other g-entlemen A\ho have contributed Appendices to this work — Georg'e Busk^ Esq. F.R.S., Dr. E. G. Latham^ Prof. Edward Forbes^ F.B.S.^ and Adam AVhite^ Esq.^, F.L.S. — I have also to offer my best thanks. It also affords me great pleasure to record my obligations to T. Huxley^ Esq. R.N.^ F.E.S.; late Assistant-Surg-eon of the Rattlesnake^ for the handsome manner in which he allowed me to select from his collection of drawing's those which now appear as illustrations \ and I may express the hope^ which in common with many others I entertain^ that the whole of his researches in marine zoology may speedily be laid before the scientific world. My own collections in Natural Plistor}' have been submitted to the examination of various eminent naturalists. Man}* of the novelties have already been described^ and the remainder will appear fi'om time to time. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. PAGE. Objects of the Voyage — Admiralty Instructions — Hydrographer's In- structions—Sail from Plymouth — Arrive at Madeira — Funchal — Visit to Curral — Try for Deep Sea Soundings — Crossing the Line— Arrive at Rio Janeiz-o — City of Rio and Neighbourhood — Dredging in Botafogo Bay — Slavery — Religious Processions — Brazilian Character — Cross the South Atlantic — Temperature of the Sea — Oceanic Birds — Pelagic Anioials — Arrive at Simon Bay — Sm-vey the Bay— Caffre War — Observations en Waves— Arrive at Mauritius— Port Louis — Visit to Pamplemousses — La Pouce Mountain — Try for Deep Sea Soundings — Arrive at Hobart Town . . .1 'O' CHAPTER II. Arrive at Sydney — Bramble is attached to the Expedition — Survey Entrance of Port Jackson and Twofold Bay — Sail upon our First Northern Cruize — Arrive at MoretonBay — Pi-oceedings there — Natives at Moreton Island — Arrive at Port Curtis — Settlement of North Australia— Excursions made in Neighbourhood — Natural Productions — Call at the Percy Isles — Port Molie and Cape Upstart — Unable to find Fresh Water — Return to Sydney — Recent Occurrences there — Sail for Bass's Strait — Visit Port Phillip and Port Dalrymple — Inspect the Lighthouses of the Strait , . . .42 CHAPTER III. Sail on our Second Northern Cruize — Entrance to the Inner Passage — Arrive at Rockingham Bay — Land Mr. Kennedy's Expedition — Commence the Survey at Dunk Island — Communication with Natives — Barnard Isles — Botanical Sketch — Examine a New River — Frank- laud Isles — Find the Cocoa-nut Palm — Fitzroy Island —The Will-o' the Wisp and her Story — Trinity Bay — Animals of a Coral Reef — Stay at Lizard Island — Howick, Pelican, and Claremont Isles — Bird Isles — Meet party of Natives in Distress — Cairucross Island — Arrive at Cape York . . . , . 7(i 2 9 ft ^ 9 tj- fv Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PAtiK. Water the Ship — Vessel with Supphes arrives — Natives at Cape York — Description of the Country and its Productions — Port Albany considered as a Depot for Steamers — Sail from Cape York and arrive at Port Essington— Condition of the Place — History of the Settlement — Would be useless as a Colony — Aborigines — Leave Port Essington — Arrive at Sydney . . . . .121 CHAPTER V. Fate of Kennedy's Expedition — Sail on our Third Northern Cruise — Excursion on Moreton Island — History of Discoveries on the South- East Coast of New Guinea and the Louisiade Archipelago, from 1606 to 1846 — Find the Shores of the Louisiade protected by a Barrier Reef — Beautiful appearances of Rossel Island — Pass through an opening in the Reef, and enter Coral Haven— Interview with Natives on Pig Island — Find them treacherously disposed —Their mode of Fishing on the Reefs — Establish a system of Barter alongside the Ship — Description of the Louisiade Canoes, and mode of management — Find a Watering Place on South-East Island — Its Scenery and Pro- ductions— Suspicious conduct of the Natives — Their Ornaments, &c. described . . . . . .162 CHAPTER VI. Leave Coral Haven — Brierly Island — Communication with the Natives — Description of their Huts — Bartering for Yearns and Cocoa-nuts — Suspicious conduct of the Natives — They attack the Surveying Boats — Calvados Group — Further communication with the Inhabitants — Stay at Duchateau Islands — Their Productions — Proceedings there — Duperre Islands — Unable to find Anchorage — Pass out to Sea, and proceed to the Westward — Western termination of the Louisiade Archipelago — Reach the Coast of New Guinea . .218 CHAPTER VII. Brumer Islands — Catamarans and Canoes — Friendly relations with the Natives of New Guinea — Are well received at their Village — Tatooing and Dress of the Women — The Huts described — Large Canoe from the Mainland — Tassai ladies return our visit — The Natives described — Their Weapons, Ornaments, Food, &c. — Cul de Sac de I'Orangerie, and Communication with the Natives — Redscar Bay and its Inhabitants — Leave the Coast of New Guinea — Arrive at Cape York ...... 253 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER VIII. PAGF. Rescue a white Woman from Captivity among the Natives — Her History — Bramble and boats complete the Survey of Torres Strait — Wini and the Mulgrave Islanders — Intercourse with the Cape York Natives — Nearly quarrel with them at a night dance — Witness a Native fight — Discover some fine country — Incidents of ovu* stay — Many new Birds found — Remarks on the Climate, &c. of Cape York . 301 APPENDIX. Observations on the Temperature of the Sea, made during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Dec. 1846— July, 1847, by Lieut. J. Day- MAN, R.N. . . . . . .329 Abstracts of Meridian Distances measured during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, 1847-50, by Capt. Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S., and Lieut. C. B. Yule, R.N. . . .331 Observations of the Mean Magnetic Inclination, made on shore in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by Lieut. J. Dayman, R.N. . 337 Account of the Polyzoa and Sertularian Zoophytes, collected in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by George Busk, Esa. F.R.S. 343 ERRATA. VO L. p- line. p- ine 13 20 for los read dos. 356 22 34 12 breach read breech. 357 10 35 28 jmntherina read mauritiana. 39 6 asirece read asfrace. 358 10 68 28 Louis read Curtis. 367 11 92 16 second read first. 3(57 20 102 31 occulata read oculata. 375 1 103 18 meandrina read mccandrina. 375 27 104 29 ,y sordidiis read sordida. 395 14 233 23 * J Pritchard read Prlchard. cube read cup. oval read oral, also p. 870, 1.7; p. 372, 1. 20; p. 380, I. 9. fine read five, dichotoma read furcata. marginata read Torresiana. fiexilis,n. sp. read Johnstonia:. Janicro read Janeiro, ftuxure read flexure. LIST OF PLATES. VOL. I. Canoe and Natives of New Guinea Cutting through the " Scrub'' at Rockingham Bay Lime Calabash and Spatula Interview with Natives of the Louisiade Archipelago Stone-headed Axe and Fishhook Plan of Piron Island Canoe Large Canoe of the Louisiade View in Watering Creek, South-East Island Bracelet made of a Human Jaw Hut on Brierly Island End view of do. Interior of do. . . . Catamaran and Natives of Brumer Island Drum, Bailer, and Cooking Pot Village of Tassai, New Guinea Shield, Spears, Basket, and Comb Pandean Pipes Wooden Pillow New Guinea Canoe in a Squall Natives of Redscar Bay Playhouse of Bower Bird of Cape York New Zoophytes Frontispiece to face p. 83 190 to face 193 . 198 . 205 . 206 to face 208 . 216 to face 223 . 224 . 225 . 256 . 261 to face 264 . 279 . 282 . 286 . 294 . 298 . 323 toface 343 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. RATTLESNAKE. CHAPTER I. OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE —ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS — HYDRO- GRAPHEU'S INSTRUCTIONS — SAIL FROM PLYMOUTH —ARRIVE AT MADEIRA FUNCHAL — VISIT TO CURUAL TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS— CROSSING THE LINE — ARRIVE AT RIO DE JANEIRO — CITY OF RIO AND NEIGHBOURHOOD — DREDGING IN BOTAFOGO BAY — SLAVERY — RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS BRAZI- LIAN CHARACTER CROSS THE SOUTH ATLANTIC TEMPERA- TURE OF THE SEA — OCEANIC BIRDS — PELAGIC ANIMALS ARRIVE AT Simon's bay — survey the bay — caffre war. OBSERVATIONS ON THE WAVES — ARRIVE AT MAURITIUS — ■ PORT LOUIS — VISIT TO PAMPLEMOUSSES LA POUCE MOUN- TAIN—TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS — ARRIVE AT HOBART TOWN. H.M.S. Rattlesnake^ one of the old class of 28-g*mi sliips^ was commissioned at Portsmouth on September 24th^ 184G^ by the late Captain Owen Stanley^ with a complement of 180 officers and men. The nature and objects of the intended voyag-e will best be conveyed to the reader throu^'h the medium of the following- instructions from the Admiralty^ for the use of which I am indebted to Lieut. C. B. Yule^ VOL. I. B 2 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. who succeeded to the command of the Rattlesnake^ upon the death of our late lamented Captain^ at S3'dney^ m March 1850^ after the successful accom- plishment of the principal objects of the expedition. " By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. " Whereas_, it being the usual practice of vessels return- ing from the Austrahan Colonies, or from the South Sea, to proceed to India tlirough Torres Strait; and most of those vessels preferring the chance of finding a convenient opening in the Barrier Reefs to the labour of frequent anchorage in the In-shore Passage, it was thought fit to send out an expedition under Captam Francis Blackwood, to determine which was the best opening that those reefs would afford, and to make such a survey thereof as would ensui'e the safety of all vessels which should continue to adopt that mode of reaching the Strait : " And whereas, although that specific object was suc- cessfully achieved by the survey of Baine Island Passage, and by the erection of a durable beacon there to render it the more accessible, yet it appears that much is still to be done in those seas in order to make the approach to the Strait more secure and certain, as well as to afford the choice of another entrance fartlier to the northward in case of vessels overshooting the latitude of Raine Island by stress of wind, or current : " We have, therefore, thought proper to appoint you to the command of the Rattlesnake, for the purpose of carry- ing out these objects ; and you are hereby required and directed, when that ship is in every respect ready for sea, to proceed in her to Madeira for the verification of your ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 3 clirononieters — from tlience to Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good Hope^ for a supply of water, and to land the £50,000 you have been ordered to convey to that colony ; then to make the best of your way to the Mauritius, to land the treasnre (£15,000) entrusted to your charge for that island; and ha\ang so done, to proceed to King George's Sound for the piu^pose of carrying its exact meridian dis- tance to Sydney, where you will lose no time in preparing for the execution of the important ser\dce entrusted to you. "The several objects of that ser-vice have been drawn up imder oui' direction by our Hydi'ographer ; but notwith- standing the order in which they are placed, we leave to your own discretion the several periods of their perform- ance, and likewise the times of your return to Sydney to re-victual and refit — being satisfied that your zeal in pushing forward the survey will never outstrip your atten- tion to the health and comfort of vour crew. " You will take the Bramble and her tender, the Castle- reagh, mider your orders, and employ them in those places which require vessels of a lighter draft of water than the Rattlesnake. They are to be attached as tenders to the Rattlesnake, and to be manned from that ship ; and such of the present crew of the Bramble as may have served five years continuously, and volunteer to remain on the sui'vey- ing service in Australia, are to be entered in the Rattle- snake under the pro^dsions of the Act of Parliament. The books of the Bramble are to be closed, and she is to be considered as no longer in commission ; and you are hereby authorized, after being joined by her and by the Castle- reagh, to enter ten supernumerary seamen for wages and victuals in the Rattlesnake, (making her total complement 190,) to enable you eff'ectively to man the said two tenders. " In stretching off from the Barrier Reefs to the east- ward, in order to explore the safety of the sea intervening B 2 4 ABMIEALTY INSTRUCTIONS. between them and Louisiade and New Guinea^ you will have occasion to approach those shores^ in which case you must be constantly on your guard against the treacherous disposition of their inhabitants; all barter for refreshments should be conducted under the eye of an officer^ and every pains be taken to avoid giving any just cause of offence to theu" prejudices, especially with respect to their women. " A natui'alist having been permitted to accompany you, every reasonable facility is to be given him in making and presendng his collections. " In the event of this country being involved in hostili- ties dui'ing your absence, you will take care never to be surprised; but you are to refrain from any act of aggres^ sion towards the vessels or settlements of any nation with which we may be at war, as expeditions employed in behalf of discoverv and science have always been considered by •< t/ V all ci^dlized communities as acting under a general safe- guard. "You will consider yourself under the command of Kear- Admiral Inglefield, the Commander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's ships and vessels on the East India station, while you are within the limits of that station ; and we have sig- nified to him our desire that he should not divert you fr'om the survey, nor interfere \^ith your proceedings, except under the pressiu-e of strong necessity ; and that upon all fit occasions he should order you to be supphed with the stores and provisions of which you may stand in need; and all officers senior to yourself, with whom you may fall in, are hereby dii'ccted to give you any assistance which may be requisite. " Notwithstanding the 16th article of the 4th section of the 6th chapter of the Admiralty Instructions, you are, besides your reports to your Commander-in-Chief, to send brief accounts to our Secretary of your proceedings, state. ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 5 and condition : and you will make known to him^ in due time, the nature and quantity of any supplies of wliich you may be absolutely in want, and whicli may have to be forwarded to you from England. " With our Hydrogi'apher you are by every opportunity in your power to keep up a constant correspondence ; you are to report to him in full detail all your proceedings; and you are to transmit to him, whenever possible, tracings of all charts and plans that yoa may have completed, accom- panied by saihng directions, and with notices of any facts or discoveries which may be of interest to na^dgation. ^' Having completed the service herein set forth, you are to return in the Rattlesnake, along with the Bramble, to Spithead, when you will receive directions for your fur- ther proceedings. If the Bramble should, however, by that time be in an unfit state to undertake the voyage to Europe, it may perhaps be prudent to dispose of her, under the sanction of the Commander-in-chief. '^ In the event of any unfortunate accident befalling yourself, the officer on whom the command may ia conse- quence devolve, is hereby required and directed to carry out, as far as in liim lies, the foregoing orders and instruc- tions. " Given under our hands, this 1st December, 1846. (Signed) "Chas. Adam. "Jno. D. Dundas. " To Owen Stanley, Esq , " Captain of Her Majesty's " Surveying Vessel Rattlesnake, at Plymouth, " By command of their Lordships, (Signed) "H. G. Waiid.^' Ill connexion with the preceding g-eneral instruc- tions to Capt. Stanley^ it will be necessary to g-ive G HYDROGRAPHEli S INSTRUCTIONS. a portion of those more explicit directions furnished by the HydrogTapher^ K ear- Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort. Extracts from Hydrograpliic Instructions for Capt. Stanley. " On your arrival at Sydney you should take the earliest opportunity of communicating with Lieut. Yule^ in order to learn how much has been executed^ by the Bramble and her tender, of the orders which he received from Capt. Blackwood, and you will no doubt avail yourself of his long experience in those seas in digesting your plan of future operations. ''A letter from the Colonial Office having recently apprized their Lordships that it is the intention of her Majesty^s Government to form a new settlement at Harvey Bay, and having requested that it may be duly examined with that view, your first undert?.king, after leaving Syd- ney, should be to repair to that place, and to make an efficient survey of the whole bay, extending it down through the channel into Wide Bay, and marking the best anchor- ages, the most convenient landing-places, and the several parts where water may be found. And as it appears that Colonel Barney, R.E. is engaged in the same inquiry, it will be prudent to act in concert with him, and to give him a copy of such parts of it as may suit his purposes. ^' In your way to this district, and indeed on every part of the shores of Australia, you shoidd lose no fair opportu- nity of verifying the positions — of multipljTUg the sound- ings—and of improving the smaller details of the coast as laid down by Capt. P. P. King in his excellent Sm^vey, but which he had not time or means to effect with the same accuracy that will be in youi' power. By carrying hydrographer's instructions. 7 on this system of correction and improvement in our pre- sent charts from Harvey Bay along the narrow na\4gation which is generally known by the name of the In-shore Passage, between the coast and the Barrier Beefs, a very great benefit will be conferred on those masters of vessels who would be the more readily inclined to adopt that channel, if certain parts of it were so clearly delineated, and the soundings so spread on either side of the tracks, that they could sometimes continue under sail during the night. However necessary it was, and is, to contribute as much as possible to the safety of those vessels who choose the outer voyage by the Barrier Beefs, it is not the less our duty to facilitate the na\dgation of the In-shore Passage to all vessels who prefer its tranquillity and security to the risk of the former; and your labours for the accomplishment of this object will prove to be of peculiar importance when steam communication between Singa- pore and Sydney shall be estabhshed. " In the general and searching examination of those parts of the Coral Sea which are hkely to be traversed by ships steering for Torres Strait, you will be obliged to regulate your movements by the periodic changes of the weather and monsoons — probably beginning to windward, and dropping gently to leeward by close and well-arranged traverses, and by spreading out your three vessels to a con- venient distance apart. This great expanse of sea, which may be said to stretch from Lord Howe^s Island to New Caledonia and to the Louisiade, would no doubt require many years work in order to accomphsh that object ; but, by dividing it into definite zones or squares, and by fully sifting those which you may undertake, a certain quantity of distinct knowledge will be gained. Navigators in cross- ing those zones wiU then be sure of their safety, and futm-e surveyors will know exactly on what parts to expend their labours. 8 hydrographek's INSTRUCTIOISS. "In carefully exploring the northernmost, and appa- rently the safest entrance from the Pacific, which may be called Blights Channel, you will connect the islands with a survey of the coast of New Guinea, as well as with the edge of the Warrior Reef, and as there are throughout moderate soundings, you will probably be able to draw up such clear directions as will enable the mariner to use it in moderate weather by night, and to beat through it at all times. Characteristic views of the coast and hills of New Guinea, as well as of each island, both from the east- ward and westward, will greatly assist him by the imme- diate certainty of his landfall, and ^lill also materially add to your means of gi^^ng proper marks and bearings for avoiding the dangers. " In Torres Strait you will find much to do ; — not only has a new rock been discovered in the middle of the Endeavour Channel, but the water in its western opening is only four and a-half fathoms, and there seems no reason for not believing that Prince of Wales Channel is safer, easier, and more dii'ect. But before we can decide upon that point, an accui'ate survey must be made of it, through- out its length and breadth, including the adjacent islands, and showing their anchorages and watering-places, as well as the nature of the soil, and the kind of timber they pro- duce, along with a full investigation of the tides. " The connexion of that Strait with Bligh's Farewell should also be examined, for many circumstances may ren- der it highly necessary that the Admii^alty should be made aware of what means there are to pass from one ocean to the other, without being observed from Cape York. " On this latter Cape Government have for some time contemplated a station, and it will therefore be very desir- able to fix upon a convenient but secure anchorage in its neighbourhood. Oiu- latest sui'veys do not show much HYDROGRAPHER'S I]VSTRUCTI0>'S. 9 promise of finding such a port ; bnt^ perhaps, inside the reefs beyond Peak Point, or more hkely between Albany Island and the main, a snug place may be discovered for that purpose. " In tracing out the approach to Bligh's Farewell, you will be led to examine the southern face of New Guinea as far as Cape Yalsche ; but after verifying the position of this point, it -will be prudent to quit the shores of that island, and not to meddle with any part of it over which the Dutch claim jurisdiction. *^^When you have arrived at this distant point, the S.E. monsoon will probably render it necessary to repair to Port Essington for such supplies as may by previous arrangement have been sent there for you from Sydney ; or perhaps unforeseen events might render it more expe- dient to proceed for refreshments to some of the islands in the Arafiira Sea, or it is possible to one of the Dutch settlements in Java. And in either of these two latter cases you should make a complete survey of the island to which you have proceeded, or you should select any one of the eastern passages from Bally to Floris most convenient to the object you have in ^dew, and then lay it down with precision. Of the many well-known passages between the innumerable islands of that great Ai'chipelago, there is not one which has ever been charted with plausible accuracy ; and it cannot be too strongly impressed on your mind that hydrography is better served by one accurate chart than by ten approximate sketches. "The several objects of this highly interesting expe- dition having thus been briefly enimierated, I have only to remind you that their Lordships do not prescribe to you the order in which they are to be executed, leading it to your own prudence, and to your experience in those cli- mates, so to arrange them that each part of your sui'vey 10 SAIL FROM PLYMOUTH. sliall be complete in itself, and that each step in your progress shall be conducive to its successor. (Signed) " F. Beaufort, HydrographerJ^ The Rattlesnake left Spithead on December 3rd^ and on the 11th took her final departure from Plymouth, which place we had called at to complete her fitting's^ swing- the ship a second time to ascer- tain the amount of local attraction, and receive some specie for the Cape of Good Hope and the Mauritius. Being* favoured by strong northerly wmds^ we reached Madeira on December 18th, after a quick, but most uncomfortable passag-e ; during- the greater part of which the main and lower decks were partially flooded, owing- to the mefficiency of the scuppers, and the leaky state of nearly every port and scuttle in the ship. Dec, 20th. — The scenery of Madeira has been so often described by voyag-ers, who, from Cook downwards, have made it the first stage in their circumnavigation of the globe, as to render super- fluous more than a few passing allusions. When near enouo-h to distino-uish the minor features of the island, the terraced slopes of the mountain sides converted into vineyards and gardens studded with the huts of the peasantry, presented a pleasing- aspect to visitors, whom a week's sailing- had brought from the snow-clad shores of England. Here and there a wllite-^^• ashed chapel or picturesque vilki lent a charm to the scenery by contrasting- ARRIVE AT MADEIRA FUNCHAL. 11 strong'ly with the patches of green upon the slopes^ the deep blue of the ocean, and the dehcate white of the ever-chano-ino- clouds of mist which rolled incessantly along*, while the rug'g-ed summit of the island, and tlie deep ravines radiating* toAvards the coast-rang-e of precipitous cliffs, gave an air of wildiiess to the scene. The town of Funchal, said to contain about 25,000 inhabitants, is situated upon the slope of an amphi- theatre of hills, behind the only anchorag*e of the ishmd. The finest view is obtained from the balcony of a church dedicated to Nossa Senhora de Monte, situated at a considerable elevation above the town. Here one looks down upon the numerous quintas and cottao-es of the suburbs embosomed in a'ardens and vineyards, the orang-e gToves and clumps of chestnut trees, the snow-white houses of Funchal with its churches and public building's, the citadel frownino* over the town, the calm waters of the bay with the vessels at anchor g'ently heaving- to and fro on the long- vresterly swell, the Ilheo rock and batteries, the bold headlands, and the dim outline of the distant Desertas. Some of the streets are ])leasantty shaded by rows of plane trees (Platcmus occidentalis). Several deep ravines passing* through the town are carefully walled in, to prevent damage being done by the torrents which occasionally sweep down the mountain, carrying everything* before them. From the steepness of the narrow roads and streets, wheeled vehicles can scarcely be used, 12 VISIT TO CURRAL. and sledg-es drawn by small bullocks supply their place^ while the wine^ the chief article of export^ is conveyed into the town in g'oat-skins carried on the shoulder. Dec, 2Srd. — Few strang-ers remain long- in Madeira without paying- a visit to the Curral^ and a larg-e party of us left the ship for that purpose this mornino*. At first the road led throuo'h a series of narrow lanes frequently separated fi'om the fields and vineyards on either side by hedg'es of roses^ hone3^suckle^ jasmine and fuchsias ; now and then passing- under successions of trellis work covered by the vines when in full vigour^ and then forming- long' shady vistas. For several miles we wound our way along- the hill sides^ down deep ravines^ and up steep rock}^ slopes. In spite of the rug-gedness of the path^ our horses progressed with wonderful alacrity^ although occasionally impeded b}^ the additional weight of the attendant burroqueros holding on by the tail; and laughing- at our eiforts to dislodo-e them. On reaching- the shoulder of one of the hills; we found the ravines and valleys below us filled Avith dense mist. Here^ at an elevation of 2500 feet; a species of spruce-like pine appeared to thrive well. The path; which at times is not more than three feet wide^ now winds along the sides of the mountain with many sharp turnings j heading- numerous ravineS; the frightful nature of which was partially concealed by the obscurity of the mist. VISIT TO CURKAL. 13 We halted at the Pass of the Curral^ to which Captam Stanley's barometrical observations* assig'n an elevation of 2700 feet above the sea. Shortly afterwards the mist gradually dissolved^ unveiling* the mao-nificent scenery below and around. The Curral gives one the idea of a vast craterf of irreg'ular forni^ surrounded by a rugged wall (upwards of a thousand feet in heig'ht) of grey weather-beaten rock cut down into wild precipices^ intersected by ravines and slopes of debris mixed up with masses of crumbling rock^ and towering* upwards into fantastic peaks. A winding path leads to the bottom — a small fertile valley watered by a streamlet which leaves it by a deep gorge on the left^ and forms a picturesque waterfall on its way to the sea. The scattered rustic huts and snow-white chapel of the Curral complete the pic- ture of this peaceful and secluded spot; buried in the very heart of the mountahis. * The lieiglirt of the Pico los Bodes, determined in the usual way by the mountain barometer, was found by Lieut. Dayman to be 3677 feet ; his observations on the magnetic dip and intensity (for which, see the Appendix) are interesting, as shewing a great amount of local attraction at the summit. f There is reason to suppose the Curral to have been the principal, although not the only centre of that submarine volcanic action, during the continuance of which Madeira first emerged from the sea, an event, which the evidence afforded by the limestone fossils of St. Vincente (on the north side of the island) associates with the tertiary epoch. See Paper by Dr. J. jMacaulay in Edinb. New Pliilos. Jourii. for October, 1810. 14 LEAVE MADEIRA. Although it is now the middle of winter^ to-day's excursion afforded many subjects of interest to a natm^alist. Some beautiful ferns^ of which even the commonest one ( AdianUim CcqnUus- Veneris) would have been much prized by an English botanist as a Yerj rare British species^ occurred on the dripping- rocks b}^ the roadside^ and many wild plants were in flower on the lower grounds. Even butterflies of three kinds^ two of which (Colias Edvsa^ and Cynthia Cardui) are also found in Britain^ occurred^ although in small num- bers, and at the Pass of the Curral coleoptera of the genera Pimelea and Searites^ were met \^'ith inider stones along with minute landshells^ Bulimus luhricuSj Clausilia deltostomay and a Pupa, After a stay of eight days^ we left Madeira for Eio de Janeiro^ and on January 2nd picked up the S. E. trade wind^ and passed through the Cape de Verde Islands to the southward between Mayo and St. Jago. Two days afterwards^ in lat. 9° 30' N.^ and long. 22"" 40' W.^ a sHght momentary shock^ supposed to be the effect of an earthquake^ was felt throughout the ship. On the 11th an attempt was made to strike deep sea soundings^ but failed from the drawing of a splice used to connect two portions of the spun-yarn employed. On the following day the attempt was repeated by Captain Stanley^ unsuccessfully^ however^ no bottom having been obtained at a depth of 2400 fathoms. Still a record of the experiment may TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. 15 be considered interesting". At three p.m.^ when nearly becalmed in lat. 1" N.^ and long-. 22"^ 30' W. (a few hours previous to meeting- the S. E. trade)^ the second cutter was lowered with 2600 fathoms of line (six 3^arn spun-^arn) in hei'^ coiled in casks, and a weig-ht consisting" of twelve 32 lbs. shot, — in all, 384 lbs., secured in a net bag- of spun 3^arn. The jolly-boat was in attendance to tow the cutter as fast to Avindward as she drifted, so as to keep the line during- the time it was running- out as nearl}^ up and down as possible. The following- table shews when each 100 fathoms passed over the stern, the A\ hole 2400 fathoms of line having* taken 38 minutes and 40 seconds to run out : — Fathom Mark. Time of Passing. Fathom Mark. Time of Passing. Min. Seconds. Min. Seconds. 100 1 0 1300 17 5 200 2 5 1400 19 0 300 2 30 1500 20 50 400 3 35 1600 22 30 500 5 0 1700 24 25 600 6 15 1800 26 30 700 7 35 1900 29 10 800 9 0 2000 31 0 900 10 35 2100 32 55 1000 12 40 2200 35 0 1100 13 30 2300 36 55 1200 15 10 2400 38 40 The forenoon of January 13th was employed in 16 CEOSSING THE LINE. the performance of the usual ceremonies on '^ cross- ing* the Hne/' a custom now happily falling- into desuetude — I allude to it merely for the purpose of mentioning- its unfortunate consequences in the pre- sent instance ) for^ although the whole proceeding- was conducted with the greatest g'ood humour^ we had soon afterwards to lament the occurrence of a fatal case of pleuris3^_, besides another scarcely less severe, believed by the medical officers to have been induced by forcible and continued submersion in what is technically called '' the pond/' one part of the performance which novices are obliged to sub- mit to durino' these marine Saturnalia. The most interesting- occurrence in natural history during the passage^ in addition to the usual accom- paniments of flying iish^ dolphins^ physalioe and velelloe, was our findino- in the neio-hbourhood of the equator^ considerable numbers of a rare British bird^ TJialassidroma Leacldi^ a species of storm- petrel^ not before known to extend its range to the tropics; it was distributed between the tropic of Cancer and lat. 5° S. As we approached the South American coast^ the rates of several of our seventeen chronometers (fif- teen Government and two private ones) were found to have strano-ely altered, thus reducino* the value of our meridian distance between Madeira and Rio ; this effect was ascribed to the firing of shotted guns when exercising at general quarters^ a practice which in consequence was not afterwards repeated. RIO DE JANEIRO. 17 Janiiary 22 rd. — I shall not soon forg'et my first view of the shores of the new world. The morning- was beautifully fine^ and with a lig*ht breeze scarcely sufficient to cause a ripple on the water^ we were slipping' past the hig-h and remarkable promontory of Cape Frio^ which at first appeared like an island. A long' beach of g-littering- sand stretched aAvay to the westward^ and was lost in the distance ; behind this a strip of undulating' country , clad here and there in the richest g'reen^ was backed by a rang'e of distant ^^'ooded hills^ on which many clumps of palms could be disting-uished. Few harbours in the world present a more imposing' entrance than that of Eio de Janeiro. Several islands lie off the opening-^ and on either side the coast rang'e ter- minates in broken hills and ridg'es of g'ranite^ one of which^ Pao d'A^ucar^ the Sug-ar Loaf of the Eng-lish^ rises at once from near the water's edg"e to the heig'ht of 900 feet^ as an apparently inac- cessible peak^ and forms the well known landmark for the entrance. Passing' the narrows (where the width is a mile and a quarter)^ strongly g'uarded by fortifications, of which Fort Sa. Cruz, an extensive work, with several tiers of g'uns occupying' a rocky point, is the principal, the harbour widens out with beautiful sandy bays on either side, and rocky headlands covered with luxuriant veg*etation. Here the view of the city of Rio de Janeiro is mag-nificent. The glare of the red-tiled buildings, whitewashed or VOL. I. c 18 RIO DE JANEIRO. painted yellow^ is relieved by the varied beauty of the suburbs and g"ardens^ and the numerous wooded eminences crowned b}^ churches and other conspi- cuous public edifices. Beyond the city the harbour ag*ain widens out to form an immense basin^ studded with g'reen islands^ extending* backwards some seven- teen or eio-hteen miles further towards the foot of the Org*an mountains^ remarkable for their pin- nacled summits^ the hig-hest of which attains an elevation of 7800 feet above the sea. The harbour presented a busy scene from our anchorao-e. The water was alive with small craft of every description^ from the larg*e felucca-rig'g'ed boat doAvn to the fishing' canoe simply constructed of a hollowed out log'^ and steamers crowded with passeng'ers plied between the city and the opposite shore. The sea breeze died away^ and was suc- ceeded by a sultry calm • after a short interval^ the g'rateful land wind^ laden with sweet odours^ ad- vanced as a dark line slowly stealing* along* the surface of the water^ and the deep boom of the evening* g*un echoing* from hill to hill may be said appropriately to have closed the scene. Landing* at the Larg'o do Pa^o^ or palace square^ my first favourable impressions of the cit}^ of Rio de Janeiro were somewhat lessened by the stench arising* from oifal on the beach^ and the vicinity of the market_, under the conjoined influence of a per- fect calm and a temperature of 90*^ in the shade. The palace^ now used by the emperor onl}^ on court BIO DE JANEIRO. 19 days, has two sides of the hirg-e irreg-idar square in wliich it is situated, occupied by shops and other private building-s. Close by is the market, which the strang-er, especially if a naturalist, Avill do well to visit. The variety of fruits and vegetables is great, that of fish scarcely less so. On the muddy shore in the back gTound, the fishing canoes are drawn up on their arrival to discharg'e their carg'oes, chiefly at this time consisting- of a kind of sprat and an anchovy with a broad lateral silvery band. Baskets of land crabs covered Avith black slimy mud, of handsome Liipe/e^ and the large Avell-fla^oured prawns, called CameroonSy are scattered about, and even small sharks {Zygcencey &c.) and cuttle-fish are exposed for sale. The streets, which, with few exceptions, are very narrow, are paved with larg-e rough stones, — they have usually a g'utter in the centre, and occasionally a narrow pavement on each side. For building- purposes, unhewn granite is chiefly used, the walls being' afterwards smoothed over with a layer of phister, whitewashed, and margined with yellow or blue. The two principal streets are the Rua Direita, the widest in the city, and the principal scene of commercial transactions, and the narrow Rua do Ouvidor, filled with shops, many of which equal in the richness and variety of their g'oods the most splendid establishments of European capitals. Of these the most tempting, and the most dangerous to enter with a well-filled purse, is the famous c 2 20 CITY OF RIO feather-flower manufactorv of Mme. Finot, where the g'org'eous phimag^e of hiimmhig" birds and others of the feathered tribe is fabricated into wreathes and bouquets of all kinds. Although the absence of sewerag'e is everywhere apparent^ the town is well supplied with water from numerous large fountains, filled by pipes from an aqueduct five or six miles in leng'th, communicating- with the Corcovado moun- tain. One is struck with the comparative absence of wheeled vehicles in the streets of llio. Now and then a clumsy caleche is driven past by a neg*ro postillion, in blue livery and jack boots^ riding* a second horse yoked outside the shafts, and omni- buses dra^vn b}" four or six mules, are not unfre- quently met with, and seem to be much patronised. Many of the walks in the neighbourhood of the city are exceedingiy beautiful; one of the j^leasantest leads along* the line of the aqueduct. Here the botanist fresh from Europe, will find subjects of interest at every step, and the entomologist may revel to his heart's content among gaudily coloured Helicoiim, Hesperian ^ and Erycince^ or watch the larger butterflies of the restricted genus PcqnliOy slowly wino'inp* their lazy flio-ht among- the trees just beyond the reach of his insect net. A common butterfly here (Perichomia AmpMnome) has the singular habit of frequenting the trunks and limbs of the trees where it rests with expanded wings, and generall}^ manages adroitly to shift its position, and escape vvhen swept at with the net. Some AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. ^1 larg-e dark Cicad(p are common amono- the branches^ and the air often resounds with their harsh g-rating* cries_, especially towards evening-. On the trunks of various trees along' the path^ especially a thorny- stemmed Bomhax, the pretty Bulimus papijraceus is common^ wdth an occasional B, Auris'leporis, but I never durhig* my w-alks was so fortunate as to find any of the more magnificent of the Brazilian landshells^ — for example^ B, ovalis, a noble species^ four or ^ve inches in leng'th^ of Avhich I have bought live specimens in the market. Some of the lanes^ in which^ on one occasion I lost my w^ay^ about dusk^ would have reminded me of those of the south of Eno-land on a fine autumnal eve^ were it not for the scattered palms and papaw trees in the hedo-e-rows, and the hedgfes themselves occasionally consisting* of the coffee plant^ conceal- ing' clumps of banana and sugar-cane. The Cicadae were singing their evening hymn from the branches overhead^ and in due time the fire-flies came out in all their glory. I had looked forward with eager anticipation to the result of the first dredging of the Yoyage. None of the ship's boats could be spared^ so I hired one pulled by four negro slaves^ who^ althougii strong active fellows^ had great objections to straining their backs at the oar, when the dredge was down. No sieve having been supplied, we were oblio'ed to sift the contents of the dredo-e through our hands^— a tedious and superficial mode 22 DREDGING IN BOTAFOGO BAY. of examination. Still some fine specimens of a curious flat sea-urchin (Encope marginata) and a few shells^ encourag-ed us to persevere. Two days after^ Mr. Huxley and myself set to work in Bota- fog'o Bay^ provided with a wire-g*auze meat cover^ and a curious machine for cleaning* rice 5 these answered capitally as substitutes for sieves^ and enabled us by a thoroug'h examination of the con- tents of the dredg"e_, to detect about fort} -five species of mollusca and radiata^ some of which were new to science. Among^ these acquisitions I may mention a new species of AmphioxuSy a g'enus of small fishes exhibiting* more anomalies than any other knoAvn to ichthyolog*ists^ and the lowest org*an- ization found in the class ^ it somewhat resembles the sand-eels of Britain in habits^ like them moving* with extraordinary rapidity throug'h the sand. By dint of bribery and ridicule, we had atleng'th manag-ed to g'et our boatmen to work tolerably well; and Avhen we were alike well roasted by the sun and repeatedly drenched^ besides being* tired out and hung*ry^ they had become quite submissive^ and exchang-ed their gTumbling* for merriment. A more lovely spot can scarce^ be found^ than the secluded bay of Botafog'o with its pretty villag*e^ and the noble Corcovado mountain immediately behind^ and we paid it other visits. One of the principal characteristics of Bio is slaver3\ Slaves here perform the work of beasts of burthen ] and in the business parts of the city the SLAVERY.— RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS. 23 attention of a stranger is sure to be arrested by g'ang's of them heavily laden^ proceeding* at a jog*- trot^ timing- their steps to a monotonous song* and the noise of a tin rattle filled with stones^ carried by their leader. AVhat their domestic condition and ] treatment may be^ I know not^ but^ among* the , slaves one sees out of doors^ the frequency of iron collars round the neck^ and even masks of tin^ con- cealing* the lower part of the face^ and secured be- hind with a padlock^ would seem to indicate extreme brutality in those capable of resorting* to such means of punishment. Yet these^ I was told^ were rare exceptions^ the Brazilians not being worse task- masters than the people of other slave-holding coun- tries^— and such may be the case. Whatever he may think of the true state of reli- gious feelings it soon becomes obvious to a stranger that great care is taken to celebrate the numerous festivals of the Church with all possible pomp and splendour. One day I happened to encounter a procession in honour of St. Januarius^ the patron saint of Rio. The number of ecclesiastics taking a part amounted to several hundreds^ and a body of military brought up the rear. The streets and ^^•in- dows were crowded with people in their holiday costume^ bands of music w^ere playing^ bells were ringing, flowers were scattered about and showered down from the houses. The profusion of tinsel and embroidery was very great, and the balconies and 24 BRAZILIAN CHARACTER. windows in the line of procession were hung- with rich brocade in all the colours of the rainbow. A short stay^ such as ours^ afforded ver}^ limited opportunities of judg-ing* of the national character ; and my impressions on this jDoint were^ probably^ often erroneous. The Brazilians and Engiish did not then reciprocate yery cordially^ on account of the existino- state of international relations. Of late years g-reat advances appear to have been made upon the mother-country^ judging* from the increas- ing* liberality of their institutions, the establishment of commercial relations abroad^ the freedom of dis- cussion and influence of the press, the attention paid to public education (especially of the middle classes)^ the support granted to literature and science^ and the declining* influence of the priesthood in secular matters. The national character^ however^ can scarcely be considered as fully formed : the Brazi- lians haye been too recently emancipated from the thraldom of a modified despotism to haye made^ as yet^ an}' ver}' great progress in deyeloping the ele- ments of national prosperity and greatness which the vast empire of Brazil so abundantly possesses^ and the foul blot of slavery^ with its debasing influence^ still remains untouched. On February 2nd we sailed from Rio for the Cape of Good Hope. The morning being* calm^ we were towed out by the boats of the squadron until a light air^ the precursor of the sea-breeze^ set in. While hove-to outside the entrance, a haul of the dredge * I ^ ^ CROSS THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. 25 broug-ht up the rare Terebratula rosea , and a small ^' shell of a new genus^ allied to Rissoa. The re- niamder of the day and part of the succeeding* one were spent in a fruitless search for a shoal said to exist in the neig-libourhood^ to which Capt. Stanley's attention had been drawn by Capt. Broug'hton^ of ^^ H.M.S. Curacoa. At one P.M. of each day^ when the weather was favourable^ the ship was hoA e-to for the purpose of obtaining' observations on the temperature of the water at considerable depths^ under the superinten- dence of Lieut. Dayman. As these were continued durino- our outward voyao'e as far as Van Diemen's Land^ and the number of observations amounted to 69^ the results will more clearly be understood if exhibited in a tabular form^ for which the reader is referred to the Appendix. '^ Two of Sixe's thermo- meters were attached^ one at the bottom of the line of 870 fathoms^ the other 150 fathoms higher up. The depth recorded is that given by Massey's patent sounding- machine. As the same quantity of line was always used^the difference of depth of each day should be trifling-^ varjdng- only in proportion to the ship's drift ; yet on several occasions the depth re- corded by the machine gives as much as 100 fathoms short of the quantity of line let out."'* While eng-ag*ed in sounding*^ a process which usually occupied three-quarters of an hour^ a boat was ahva\'S at my service when birds were about the * Lieut. Dayman, R.N. 26 OCEANIC BIRDS. — BOAT CAPSIZED. ship^ and the state of the sea admitted of g'oing* after them^ — by this means many species of petrels were obtained for the collection. On one of these occa- sions^ owing- to a mistake in lowering* the stern boat before the ship had quite ^^ lost her way ^' through the water^ one of the falls could not be unhooked in time y consequently the boat was drag*ged over on her broadside^ and finally capsized with eig'ht people in her. Some reached one of the life-buoys^ which was instantly let go^ the others manag-ed to roll the boat over and right her^ full of water. All were eventually picked up by the leeward quarter-boat ; the weather one^ from the shortness of the davits^ would not clear the ship's side^ but tui-ned over on her bilge^ dipping* in the water^ and was rendered ineffective when most wanted. This defect in the davits was afterwards remedied by the substitution of other and longer ones^ which had formerly be- longed to H.M. steam vessel Thunderbolt^ wrecked at Algoa Bay a short time previously. Among* man}^ interesting* birds* procured in the above mentioned manner^ I may allude to Ptfffinns cinereuSy an European species of shearwater^ which was found to be generally distributed across the South Atlantic between the meridians of 2^" W. and l^*" E. ; on two successive days, while in the ^ For the occurrence of Procellariadce during our outward voyage, with a view to determine the geographical distribution of the species met with by me, see " Contributions to Ornithology, by Sir W. Jardiue, Bart." p. 94. PELAGIC ANIMALS. 27 iieig'hbourhood of Tristan da Cimha^ myriads of these birds passed the ship to the westward^ appa- rently coming- from that island. A few da^^s afterwards^ while 480 miles from the nearest land^ we caug*ht a beautiful tern [Sterna me- lanorhyncha) hitherto considered to be peculiar to Australia. On several occasions the towing* net* produced a rich harvest^ especially one day when almost be- calmed in lat. 34^^ 40' S. and long-. 4« W. The surface of the water was absolutely teeming" with marine animals. Of these a small Physalia and a Velella (F. emarginata?) were the most plentiful. The latter curious animal^ consists of a flat oval expansion, an inch and a half in leng^th, furnished below with numerous cirrhi and a proboscidiform mouth, and above with an obliquely vertical crest, the whole of a rich blue colour with white lines and dots, the soft parts conceal a transparent cartilagi- nous framework. The crest acts as a tiny sail * Not having seen a description of this useful instrument, 1 may mention that the kind used hy Mr. Huxley and myself, consisted of a bag of ''bunting" (used for flags,) two feet deep, the mouth of which is sewn round a wooden hoop fourteen inches in diameter ; three pieces of cord, a foot and a half long, are secured to the hoop at equal intervals and have their ends tied together. When in use the net is towed astern, clear of the ship's wake, by a stout cord secured to one of the quarter-boats or held in the hand, The scope of line required is regulated by the speed of the vessel at the time, and the amount of strain caused by the partially submerged net. 28 ARRIVE AT Simon's bay. (hence the name), and communicates to the animal a slow rotatory movement while drifting before the ^\ ind. Two kinds of Jantlimce (J, globosa and J. exigiia^ molluscs with a fragile^ snail-like shell, and a vesicular float, were drifting* about, and^ tog'ether with a very active_, silvery-blue Idotea^ half an inch long", preyed upon the Velellm, At another time^ among- many other pelag^ic Crustacea, we obtained three kinds of Urichthusy a g^enus remarkable for the giassy transparency of its species, also HyalcBa injlexa and H, tridentata, curious pteropodous mol- luscs which swim near the surface. On March 8th, we anchored in Simon's Bay ; our passag'e from Rio de Janeiro, contrary to expecta- tion, had thus occupied upwards of five weeks, owing* to the prevalence of lig'ht easterly winds (from N. E. to S. E.) instead of the westerly breezes to be looked for to the southward of lat. 35° S. We were fortunate, however, in having* fine weather during' the gTeater part of that time. The period of our stay at the Cape of Good Hope was devoted to the construction of a chart of Simon's Bay and its neig'hbourhood, which has since been incorporated with the previous survey of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher in H. M. S. " Samarang*," and published Avithout acknowledg-ment. The requisite shore observations were made by Capt. Stanley and Mr. Obree, while Lieuts. Dayman and Simpson con- ducted the soundino'. Our detention was leno-thened by a succession of S.E. gales, and the state of the Simon's town. 29 weather throughout was such that during' the period of twenty-one days the sounding- boats were able to work on six only^ — the other fine days were devoted to swino'ing* the ships for mag-netical purposes. It was also intended to survey the Whittle shoal in False Bay^ but ^\hen we sailed^ the weather was so thick and unsettled^ that Capt. Stanley was reluc- tantly oblig-ed to g'ive it up. Simon's Town is a small strag'g-ling- place of scarcely any importance^ except in connection with the naval establishment kept up here— dockyard^ hospital^ &c.— this being* the head-quarters of the Cape station. It is distant from Cape Town twenty- three miles. The neighbourhood is singularly dreary and barren, with comparatively little level ground^ and scarcely any susceptible of cultivation. I have often been struck with the great general similarity between the barren and sandy tracts of this district, and many parts of New South Wales^ where sand- stone is the prevailing rock. In both countries there are the same low scrubby bushes^ at the Cape consisting' of Heaths and Proteoe, and in Australia of Epacridge and Banksioe, — the last the honey- suckles of the Colonists. Even the beautiful sun- birds of the Cape, frequenting- especially the flowers of the Proteee^ are represented by such of the Aus- tralian honeysuckers as resort to the Banksioe. We found the Cape Colony suffering from the long' continuance of the Caffi'e war. As a natural consequence, the price of everything had risen, and 30 CAFFRE WAR. there was little specie left in Cape Town. All the troops had been sent to the frontier ; a party of blue jackets from the flag-ship at one time per- formed g*arrison duty at Cape Town ; the emerg-ency was so gTeat that even some detachments of troops on their way back to England after long- service in India^ having* put in at the Cape for refreshments^ were detained and sent to Alg'oa Ba}". We were all heartily tired of Simon's Bay long* before leaving- it ; not the less so from having- this all engrossing- ^^ Caffre war '' dinned into our ears from morning- to nig-ht as an excuse for high prices^ and some- times for various extortions^ which I had before sup- posed to be peculiar to new colonies. On April 10th we left Simon's Bay for Mauritius. Our passag-e of twenty-four days presented little remarkable. We experienced every g-radation between a calm and a heavy N.E. gale, during- the continuance of one of the latter^ we passed near the '' Slot Van Capel '' bank of the old charts^ the existence of which it was of importance to verify;* but the heavy confused sea^ such as one would expect to find on a bank during- a gale^ rendered it dangerous to heave-to to try for soundings. During- this passag-e some important observations were made by Capt. Stanley and Lieut. Dayman to * I have since learned that H.M.S. Moeander, Capt. the Hon. H. Keppel, struck soundings on^this bank, but have not been able to procure the particulars. OBSERVATIONS ON THE WAVES. 31 determine the heig"ht^ lengthy and velocity of the waves. The results will be apparent from the fol- lowing* tabular view.* Date 1847. April 21 23 )> j> J? jj 24 25 26 o 8 6 9 No. 5 May 2 „ 3 Knots 7.2 6 4&5 be - 1^ K Feet. o is > bfi c3 C > « p- 22 20 20 7 22 7&8 Paths. 17 55 43 50 37 33 57 35 CD 05 Miles, 27.0 24.5 24 22.1 22.1 26.2 22.0 Remarks. Ship before the wind with a heavy fol- lowing sea. >> >7 )' J> » M » 31 Sea irregular, observa- tions not very good. Wind and sea on port quarter. Oceanic birds were plentiful in our wake^ and g'radually dropped off as we approached the tropic. * The height was determined by watching when the crest of the wave was on a level with the observer's eye (the height above the trough of the sea being known), either while standing on the poop or in the mizzen rigging ; this must be reduced to one half to obtain the absolute height of the wave above the mean level of the sea. The length and velocity were found by noting the time taken by the wave to traverse the measured distance (100 yards) between the ship and the spar towing astern. In column 3rd, the number 4 denotes a '* moderate breeze," and 5 a" fresh breeze.'* 32 ARRIVE AT MAURITIUS. On May 2 the vicinity of land was denoted by the appearance of four tropic birds (Phaeton cethcrevs) and a tern ; and next evening-^ shortly before sunset^ we sig'hted the Island of Mauritius^ the Bamboo Mountain at Grand Port being- the first part seen. We rapidly closed in Avith the land^ and during* the nig'ht were near enough to see the surf on the coral reefs fringing* the shore^ it assuming the ap- pearance^ in the bright moonshine^ of a sandy beach of glittering whiteness. Captain Stanley remarks^ that "• the reef on the east side of the island projects further than is laid down on the Admiralty chart^ and as from the pre- valence of the S. E. trade a current is constantly setting to the westAvard^ vessels approaching' this part of the island should be very cautious^ even wdth a leading Avind^ not to get too close in with the land until the passage between Gimner's and Round Island is a\ ell under the lee. At nighty also^ the distance from the land^ when off the N. E. end of the island^ is \evj deceiving^ as the plains of Pam- plemousses are ver}^ low. The Rattlesnake^ in pass- ing at night between the Gunner's Quoin and Flat Island, experienced a strong set of nearly three miles an hour to the aa esfcward^ Avhich at times is said to be much stronger^ and partakes in some measure of the nature of a tide.'' May 4:th. — When I came upon deck I found that Ave had rounded the north end of the island^ and were beating up for Port Louis. It AA^as a delightful ronT LOUIS. 83 morning'^ with bright sunshine^ smooth water^ a g'eiitle trade wind^ and an unclouded sky. The view was very beautiful^ and quite equalled my expecta- tions^ based^ thoug'h they were^ upon the g-lo wing- descriptions of La Pierre. The extremes of the island are low^ but the centre is occupied by the partially wooded crest-like ridg*e^ rug'g'ed and pinnacled^ con- nectino- La Pouce with the famous Peter Botte. Viewed in a mass^ the country looked burnt up^ of a dull yellowish red hue^ — the hig-her hills were dark g-reen^ and the lower grounds partially so. To the left was the fertile plain of Pamj)lemousses^ even now^ in the beg*inning* of winter^ one mass of g'reen of various degrees of intensity. As we approached we beg'an to make out more distinctly the sug*ar plantations^ the gToves of cocoa-nut trees and casuarinas^ the features of the town^ and the dense mass of shipping* in the harbour. We hove to off the Bell Buoy (denoting' the outer anchorag^e)^ for the steamer which towed us to our berth abreast of Cooper's Island. The harbour of Port Louis is of singular forma- tion. It is entered by a narrow passage or break in the coral reef surrounding the island, leading into a larg'e basin^ the central portion only of which has sufficient water for shipping. The bottom is mud^ which^ they say^ is fast accumulating^ especially in a small bight called the Trou Fanfaron^ where a few 3^ears ago a line-of-battle ship could float_, but VOL. I. D 84 POET LOUIS. A^ liicli has now scarcely water enoug'li for a larg-e corvette. The reefs about the entrance are nearly dry at low water^ at which thne one may wade to then^ outer margin^ as is daily practised by hundreds of fishermen. Passing' throug-h the closely packed lines of ship- ping*^ and landing- as a strang-er at Port Louis^ perhaps the first thing to engag-e attention is the strang-e mixture of nations^ — representatives^ he might at first be inclined to imagine^ of half the countries of the earth. He stares at a Coolie from Madras with a breach cloth and soldier's jacket^ or a stately^ bearded Moor^ striking' a bargain with a Parsee merchant 3 a Chinaman^ with two bundles slung on a bamboo^ hurries past^ jostling a gToup of young' Creole exquisites smoking' their cheroots at a corner^ and talking of last night's Norma^ or the programme of the evening's performance at the Hippodrome in the Champ de Mars 5 his eye next catches a couple of sailors reeling' out of a grog- shop^ to the amusement of a group of laughing neo'resses in v/hite muslin dresses of the latest Parisian fashion^ contrasting strongly with a mo- destly attired Cingalese woman^ and an Indian ayah with her young charge. Amidst all this the French language prevails ; everything more or less pertains of the French character^ and an English- man can scarcely believe that he is in one of the colonies of his own countr}^ May IG^/^— Few passing visitors^ like ourselves^ VISIT TO PAMPLEMOUSSES. 35 leave the Isle of France without performing- a pilgTimag'e to Pamplemousses^ a pretty village seven miles distant^ near which are the (so called) tomhs of Paul and Virg-inia, and the Botanic Gar- dens. For this purpose^ — as we sail the day after to-morrow^ I started at daylight. The road^ even at this early hour^ was crowded with people — Coolies^ Chinamen^ NegToes^ and others, bring-ing* in their produce to market^ Avhile every now and then a carriage passed by filled with well-dressed Creoles enjoying* the coolness of the morning- air^ or bent upon making- a holiday of it^ for the day was Sunday, I breakfasted in one of the numerous cabarets by the roadside^ dignified with the name of ^^ Hotel de — ^ &c." Numerous small streams crossed the road^ and the country^ so far as seen^ exhibited a refreshing- greenness and richness of vegetation. ^' Les Tombeaux ^' are situated in a garden surrounded by trees^ and a gTove of coffee plants^ behind the residence of a gentleman who must be heartily sick of being so constantly disturbed by strangers. They exhibit nothing- more remarkable than two dilapidated monumental urns on opposite sides of the garden^ shaded by a clump of bamboos and casuarinas^ the latter usually mistaken for cypresses. In the coffee plantation close by^ I was delio'hted to find great numbers of a large and handsome land shelly A cluitina pant Iter ma— it bur- rows in the earth during dry weather^ but some rain D 2 30 BOTANICAL GARDENS. which had fallen durino* the nio-ht brou^fht it out in abundance. The Botanical Gardens are close to the church. Among" the plants are some mag-nificent sag'o palms^ almost rivalling' those I had seen in New Guinea^ during' the voyag-e of the Fl}^^* and many clove and nutmeg" trees^ the cultivation of which in the island it had been the intention of Government to intro- duce. Here are some very fine shady walks with ponds of water and rivulets^ but althoug'h these cool retreats are admirably adapted for solitary rambles and the holding" of merry pic-nic parties^ I found with reg-ret that the title of botanical had misled me. On my return I was not surprised to see in an island colonised by the French — so little outward respect paid to the Sabbath. Many people were at work in the fields^ and washerwomen in the streams^ — a party of Chinamen were employed roofing* a house^ and blacksmiths hammered away within g*un- shot of the churchy while many of the shops and all the taverns were open in the villa g"es. On a former occasion I had made an excursion to the summit of La Pouce^ a remarkable knob-like peak on the sharp crateriform ridg"e behind Port Louis. Following' a path^ leadhig- from the town directly to AVilhelm's Plains^ one crosses a small * Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. Fly in Torres Strait, New Guinea, and other Islands of the Asiatic Archipelago. By J. Beete Jukes. LA POUCE MOUNTAIN. 37 stream and skirts the steep face of the hill over roug-h gTomid covered with burnt up g'rass^ and strag-g-ling- bushes. To this succeeds a region of everg-reens (among- which the wild mang^o is the prevailing- tree)^ where a species of monkey intro- duced many years ag-o into the island has taken up its abode. I saw none^ however, but occasionally heard their chattering- as they hurried along- among- the bushes. Where the path crosses the ridg-e, it widens out into a succession of rounded eminences^ with the summit of La Pouce rising- suddenly from its centre in a thumb-like form. Its base is wa- tered by a small g-ushing* rill^ and the veg-etation now is very luxuriant from the continual suppl}^ of moisture. The most striking plants are the tree- ferns ( Cyathea excelsa and C, Bourhonica)^ some of which attain a heig-ht of from fifteen to twenty feet. From the eastern marg-in of the ridg-e the view is very fine ] a sloping- precipice^ several hundred feet in heig*ht^ covered with stunted bushes^ overlooks Wilhelm's Plains^ nearly all under cultivation and studded with sug-ar plantations. The soil^ when newly turned up^ appeared of a dull red colour. Numbers of tropic birds were flying- along- the face of the cliff where they probably breed. Eig'ht species of land shells were picked up here^ either creeping- up the g'rass or under stones and log-s ] they were of the g-enera Caracolla, Helix^ and Pupa, A narrow path^ difficult to find among the long- grass^ leads to the summit of the mountain^ 2^000 88 THE CEMETERY. feet above the level of the sea. The view from the top embraces the g-reater part of this fine island. The coral reef fringing the shores is well seen^— the pale green of the shoal water is separated from the deep blue of the ocean by a line of snow-white surf. For entomological purposes I frequently visited the Cemetery^ numbers of insects being attracted by its flowers and trees. The road leading to it^ one of the principal evening' drives^ is shaded by rows of mag- nificent casuarinas^ from Madagascar. Some ii\e or six widely-separated religious creeds may each here be seen practising' their peculiar modes of interment — Chinese^ Mahometan^ Hindoo^ and Chris- tian ^ and among' the last it was a novelty to me to observe^ for the first time^ the pleasing custom of decking' the graves with fresh flowers^ often re- newed Aveekly for years^ disposed in jars of various kinds, from the richly ornamented vase dow^n to the humblest piece of crockery. All the low land here- abouts has been borrowed from the sea; it is a mixture of sand and fragments of coral* and the land-crabs have established a colony in one part of the cemetery^ and run riot among' the graves. Although well aware of the productiveness of this fine island in marine objects^ I was yet unprepared for the sight of upwards of one hundred species of fish^ which I frequently witnessed of a morning in the market at Port Louis; but this to me was diminished by the regret that the most skilful taxi- dermist would signally fail^ either to retain upon the LEAVE MAURITIUS. 89 prepared skiii^ or to reproduce^ the brig-lit colours for which so many of them are remarkable. Dredo-ino- ill the harbour was perfectl}^ unsuccessful; outside the margin of the coral reefs which fring-e the en- trance to Port Louis one finds a zone of loose blocks of living' Ma'andrime^ AstrecBy and other massive corals^ Tvhere dredg'ing* is impracticable; to this succeeds a belt of dead shells and small frao'inents of coral ] and the remainder of the channel is tena- cious mud^ in which I found nothing' of interest. After a pleasant stay of twelve days^ we left Mauritius^ on May 17th^ as soon as the last set of ^^sio'hts'' for ratino- the chronometers had been obtained^ and in due time rounded the north end of the island to a lig'ht Avind off the land. In the first Avatch a distant lig'ht was conjectured^ with some degree of probability^ to proceed from the well known active volcano of the Island of Bourbon. During' our stay at Port Louis^ Captain Stanley had complied with a requisition from the Commissa- riat to take some specie to Hobart Town^ consequently his previous intention of proceeding' to Sydney^ by way of Kino- Georo-e's Sound, was abandoned. On May 24th (our noon position being' in lat. 28" 1' S.; and long*. G7° 30' E.) we tacked to the S. W.^ having' found the impracticability of making a straight course for Cape Leeuwin without first get- tino' well to the southward, and in due time we reached the latitudes where westerly winds prevail^ and were enabled to proceed onward on our course. 40 TRY FOK BEEP SEA SOUNDIIN'GS. Oil June 14th^ when in lat. 40° 45' S.^ and long. 123° 23' E.^ the occurrence of a calm during" the forenoon^ althoug'h accomi3anied by a consider- able swell^ induced Captain Stanley to make a third attempt to obtain deep sea soundings. He had been much interested in the success of experiments of this kind^ in which the g-rand desideratum has always been to produce positive 2Jroof of having reached hottojti by bringing" up a portion of its substance^ hitherto unattempted on account of the g-reat leng-th of time required for the experiment^ and the disproportionate strength of the line to the enormous weight employed^ should any sudden jerk ensue from the heave of the sea. Captain Stanley had at length succeeded in contriving a very in- genious apparatus b}^ which^ upon striking sound- ings^ the eight 32 lbs. shot employed would be immediately detached, leaving no greater weight to be hauled up than the iron fi*amework to which the shot was sluno*. and a small bell-lead with the usual '^ arming'" of tallow^ to which portions of the bottom would adhere. The line was similar to that em- ployed on January 12th^ as then carefully coiled away in casks^ each of which held from 800 to 1000 fathoms^ and ran out remarkably well^ with- out any tendency to '^ kink" or get foul 3 but^ un- fortunately^ after 3500 fathoms (or fort}^ yards less than four statute miles) had gone out^ the line parted^ from some flaAv^ it is supposed^ as a piece of the same bore a far heavier weight when tested sub- ARRIVE AT HO BART TOWN. 41 sequent!}^ on board. The whole weig-ht emplo3^ed was equal to 280 lbs. ; and the time taken by the line to run out Avas 1 hour^ 59 minutes^ and 56 seconds. Fathom Mark. Time of Passing. Fathom Mark. Time of Passing. 100 Hrs 0 Min. Seconds 0 42 1900 Hrs 0 Min. 38 Seconds 11 200 0 1 49 2000 0 41 0 300 0 3 3 2100 0 44 3 400 0 4 23 2200 0 47 38 500 0 5 57 2300 0 50 47 GOO 0 7 39 2400 0 53 57 700 0 9 30 2500 0 57 6 800 0 11 22 2G00 0 51 900 0 13 20 2700 G 15 1000 0 15 19 2800 12 25 liOO 0 17 3j 2900 20 27 1200 0 19 44 3000 26 34 1300 0 21 38 3100 32 45 1400 0 24 15 3200 39 49 1500 0 26 47 3300 45 37 1600 0 29 32 3400 52 47 1700 0 32 17 3500 59 56 1800 0 35 2 On June 24th we entered Storm Bay^ and next day arrived at Hobart Town. None of our Australian colonies —I had previously seen them all — reminded me of the mother country so much as Tasmania. The clearing's on the shores of the Derwent looked very pretty, and almost Eng-lish^ particularly the spire of a small church peeping* out from among* the trees. CHAPTER II. ABRIVE AT SYDISTET — BEAMBLE IS ATTACHED TO THE EXPE- DITION— SURYET EITTEAT^'CE OF PORT JACKSOif A5fD TWO- FOLD BAT — SAIL rPOK OUR FIRST TfORTHERI^ CRUIZE — ARRITE AT MORETOJf BAY — PROCEEDINGS THERE — NATIYES AT MORETON ISLAND — ARRIYE AT PORT CURTIS — SETTLE- MENT OF NORTH AUSTRALIA — EXCURSIONS MADE IN NEIGH- BOL^RHOOD — NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — CALL AT THE PERCY ISLES — PORT MOLLE AND CAPE UPSTART — UNABLE TO FIND FRESH WATER — RETURN TO SYDNEY — RECENT OCCURRENCES THERE — SAIL FOR BASS's STRAIT YISIT PORT PHILLIP AND PORT DALRYMPLE — INSPECT THE LIGHTHOUSES OF THE STRAIT. We left Hobart Town for Sydney on July 8th. On the nig-ht of the loth, saw the fine revolvino- light on the South Head of Port Jackson^ and next morning' anchored at Farm Cove. Om^ stay in Sydney was protracted to a period of nearly three months. During' this time^ in consequence of pre- vious arrang'ements^ the schooners Bramble_, Lieut. C. B. Yule^ and Castlereag-h^ Lieut. D. Aird^ were paid off. Both these vessels had been left in December^ 1845^ by Capt. F. P. Blackwood^ of H.M.S Fly^ to continue the survey of New Guinea, (as will afterwards be more particularly alluded to), and had long' been awaiting* our arrival. The Castlereag'h, orig'inally pm'chased in Sydne}^, being* SURVEY ENTRANCE OF PORT JACKSON. 43 reported to be quite unfit for surveying* purposes^ was sold to her former owner 5 and the Bramble was re-commissioned as tender to the E^attlesnake^ and continued under the command of Lieut. Yule. Ten additio?ial men were entered on board^ increas- ing- our complement to 190 officers and men^ of whom 36 were placed on board the schooner. After a thorough refit^ both vessels were at leng-th quite ready for sea. MeauAvhile a minute survey was made by Lieu- tenants Dayman and Simpson of the inner entrance to Port Jackson^ where a reef^ called the Sow and Pig's^ (disting'uished by a beacon and a lig-ht vessel^) in the middle of the passage^ leaves only a narrow available channel on either side. The exact boun- daries of them^ with the depth of water^ were to be determined^ especiall}^ to ascertain whether a line-of-battle ship^ with her full armament^ could pass into the harbour. The shoalest part of the west channel was found to have 21 feet^ and of the east 24 feet at low water (the rise and fall of tide being" from 5 to 8 feet) ] consequently^ at hig*h water there would be room for a three-decker to enter.* This work was in connexion with a pro- posed dry dockf on Cockatoo Island; above Sydney, * It was found by comparison with Lieut. Roe's survey, made 25 years before, that the inner edge of the shoal had extended considerably to the southw'ard. t This has for several years been under construction ; its importance will appear more evident, when it is considered that a 44 SAIL UPON FIRST NOKTHERN CRUIZE. towards the expenses of which the Imperial Govern- ment were wilHng' to contrihute^ provided it were made of such a size as to be available for larg'e steamers and line-of-battle ships. In compliance with a requisition from Sir Charles FitzroV; the Governor of New South Wales^ Capt. Stanley^ in the Bramble^ paid a visit to Twofold Ba}^^ 200 miles to the southward of Sydney^ a place of I'ising- importance as a harbour^ also in connexion with whalino- establishments, and the extensive ad- joining- pastoral district of Maneroo. The bay was resurveyed^ with a view^ to test the comparative merits of the two townships there^ — one founded by g-overnment^ the other by private enterprise. After all; I belie ve^ the advantages afforded by each of the rival establishments are so equally divided^ that the question still remains an open one. Oct, 1 If A. —After a protracted stay in Sydne}^ of ver}^ nearly three months^ we were at leng'th enabled to start upon our first cruize to the northward^ the object of which was to make a survey of Port Curtis and part of the Inshore Passage leading* up to Torres Strait. The Eattlesnake and tender g'ot under weig'h soon after daybreak and ran out of Port Jackson to the northward with a fine S. E. wind. In the evening- the Bramble parted com- pany, her present destination being* Port Stephens, large vessel in the Australian colonies requiring repairs, which cannot be effected by the process of " heaving down," will find no suitable place nearer than Bombay. ARRIVE AT MORETON BAY. 45 for the purpose of running a meridian distance^ and ours Moreton Bay. One day^ while off Cape Byron^ an interesting addition to zoology was made in a small floating' shell-fish^ which has since proved to constitute a neAV genus^* throwing light^ I am informed^ upon nian}^ fossil univalves in the older formations 3 and a rare bird of the noddy kind (Anous leucocapillus) perched on the rigging towards evenings and was added to the collection ; for even the heauty and innocence of a tired wanderer like it was insufficient to save it from the scalpel. On Oct. 18th we anchored in Yule's Eoads^ More- ton Bay, in 12 fathoms, sand, about a mile off shore, and remained there for sixteen days. During our stay, some additions were made to render more complete the former survey of this important sheet of water. Buoys were laid doAvn to mark the intricate channels of the north entrance, now pre- ferred for its greater safety to the south entrance, although lengthening by about 50 miles the passage to or from Sydney. The wreck of a steamer, and loss of most of those on board, had not long' before caused a great sensation, and forcibly attracted attention to the dano-ers of the southern entrance. Moreton Bay is an expanse of water 45 miles in length, and 20 in greatest width, enclosed between * This mollasc, allied to Litiopa, Professor E. Forbes has done me the honour to publish in the Appendix as Macgillivrcnjia pelagica. 46 PROCEEDINGS THERE. the mainland and Stradbroke and Moreton Islands. It is open to the northward^ but sheltered on the eastward by the two islands forming- that side^ which run nearly north and south. The Brisbane river enters the bay about the middle of its western side^ and^ having- been the means of opening* up an immense extent of the finest pastoral country^ it has conferred a considerable deg-ree of importance upon the place as a harbour^ althoug-h beset with numerous shoals and narrow winding* passages^ throug"li which the tides run with g-reat force. The entrance to the river has a depth of only 10 or 11 feet at hig-h water^ consequently^ is available for small vessels only • the best anchor ag'e for larg-er ones is five miles distant. The banks are con- stantly shifting*^ and the channel is intricate. When to this is added that the settlement^ — consisting* of the townships of North and South Brisbane^ and Kang*aroo Pointy is situated 14 miles from the river mouth — it was not surprising' that a proposal had been made to establish a trading* port elsewhere in the bay, so that the wool and other produce of the district, mig-ht be shipped direct for Eng*land. For this purpose, Cleveland Point (at the south- east side of the bay) had been sug'g*ested, and the Colonial Government requested Captain Stanley's opinion on the subject : — which is as follows. " This/' says he, '^ is the worst possible place I ever saw for such a purpose ) from the proposed site of the town, a low rocky point only a few feet above MOEETON ISLAND. 47 the level of hig'li water^ projects for more than a mile in the sea ) and from both sides of this^ mud- flats^ that become dry at low water^ extend for a very considerable distance. The anchorag'e off this point must be of necessity in the stream of tide^ which^ when it sets ag'ainst even a moderate breeze^ causes a heavy sea. And as the point affords no shelter whatever for boats, it will be absolutely necessary to build a breakwater^ at least as far out as three fathoms at low water." Moreton Island^ under the lee of which the Rattlesnake was at anchor, is 19 miles in leng-th, and 4i in greatest breadth. It consists for the most part of series of sand-hills^ one of which^ Mount Tempest^ is said to be 910 feet in heig'ht ] on the north-west portion a larg-e tract of low g"round^ mostly swampy^ with several lag'oons and small streams. The soil is poor^ and the g-rass usually coarse and sedg'e-like. All the timber is small^ and consists of the usual JEucalyj)fi, BanksicB, &c. with abundance of the cypress-pine (CaUifris arenaria) a wood much prized for ornamental work. The appearance along" the shores of the Pandanus or screw-pine^ which now attains its southern limits^ introduces a kind of intertropical appearance to the veg'etation. Among* the other plants are three^ which merit notice from their efficacy in binding* dow^n the drift sand with their long* trailing* stems^ an office performed in Britain by the bent grass (Arundo arenaria) ^ here represented by another 48 PORPOISES AT MOIIETOJ^ BAY. gTiiss^ Isclicemum Jlotthoellioide : the others are a handsome pink flowered convolvulus (Ipomcea maritima), one stem of which measured 15 yards in lengthy and Hihhertia voluhilisj a plant Avith large yellow hlossoms. Among- the marine animals of Moreton Bay are two cetacea of g"reat interest. The first of these is the Australian dugongfHalicore Aiistralis)^ which is the ohject of a reg"ular fishery (on a small scale however^) on account of its valuahle oil. It fi'equents the Brisbane river and the mudflats of the harbour^ and is harpooned by the natives^ who know it under the name of Yung-un. The other is an undescribed porpoise^ a specimen of which^ however^ I did not procure_, as the natives believed the most direful consequences would ensue from the destruc- tion of one ] and I considered the advantages result- ing to science from the addition of a new species of Plioccena^ would not have justified me in out- raging their strongly expressed superstitious feelings on the subject. We observed that whenever a drove of these porpoises came close inshore^ a party of natives followed them along the beach^ and when a shoal of fish^ endeavouring to avoid their natural enemies^ approached within reach^ the blacks rushed out into the water with loud cries^ and^ keeping' their bag nets close together^ so as to form a semicircle^ scooped out as many fish as came within reach. Our seining' parties from the ship were usually ver}^ successful^ but only at one particular time of tide^ NATIVES. 49 or during' the ^^ young' flood/' Sharks are numerous close to the beach, but are g-enerally small and harmless 3 one of the natives however had lost his foot at the ankle joint^ from the bite of one. There were then no white residents upon Moreton Island^ but Ave found a party of about twenty natives encamped near the watering' place. Some of the men were rather g'ood specimens of the race^ but the reverse was the case with the females; althoug'h the latter on the first day of our meeting- them evinced a desire to cover their persons, they afterwards went about as naked as the men, — but the female children wore a small fring'e in fi'ont. The married Avomen had lost the last joint of the little fing-er of the rig'ht hand, — one had three half-caste children. The huts of these natives are of simple construction, yet comfortable enoug'h, and perfectly waterproof, — a framework of sticks in a dome-like form is covered with bark of the tea-tree (Mela- leuca) and branches of trees. While procuring- materials for a vocabulary, I found that even this small party contained indi- viduals of two tribes, speaking- different dialects. It was curious to observe that althoug'h these natives had had much intercourse with Europeans, a party of them who came on board, could not be persuaded to g'o below ; and one strong* fellow i^' one-eye," as he called himself ) actually trembled with fear when I laid hold of him by the arm, to lead him down to the main-deck. VOL. I. E OO ARRIVE AT PORT CURTIS. Nov, 4:th. — Sailed from Moreton Bay for Port Curtis in company with the Bramble. The wind beino- at north, Ave had to beat out throuo'h the narrow channel leadino- between the banks of the north entrance^ probably never before attempted by a square-rig'g'ed vessel. On Nov, 7 th, we rounded Breaksea Spit^ and passed Lady Elliott's Island^ — low^ of coral for- mation^ and one of the g'reat breeding- places of the sea-birds of this portion of the coast. Next day we anchored ^ve miles off the south entrance of Port Curtis^ and sent in two boats to sound. On their return with a favourable report^ the ship was g'ot under weig'h^ and ran in under the head sails to round Gatcombe Head^ by the channel laid down in Flinders' chart; but^ while following- a boat ahead in charg^e of the master^ the sig*nal to '' anchor immediately'' was made^ and we broug-ht up as required^ being* then about the middle of the north channel. We remained here until the boats had sounded the remainder of the approach to the port suffi- ciently to enable Capt. Stanley to move the vessel without risk to a safe anchor a g*e inside^ at a spot convenient for landino' at all times to obtain the requisite observations for determining* an astronomi- cal position^ and sufficiently central as a starting- point for boat operations. This was effected on the 10th of November^ when we anchored in 5 fathoms^ mud, at three cables leng-ths distance from the shore. COLONY OF NORTH AU.'STRALIA. 51 In January ;, 1847, the recently proposed colony of '^^ North Australia " was established by a party from Sydney^ under Lieut.-Col. Barney^ R.E.^ with a suitable staff of public functionaries. The colonists encountered more than usual difficulties and hard- ships, even at the commencement. The transport conveying- the first portion of the party^ consisting- of eig'hty-eig'ht persons^ struck on the shoal off Gat- combe Head^ and required to be hove down^ a fit spot for which purpose was fortunately found in a narrow but deep mangrove creek further up the harbour^ at a place indicated upon the Rattlesnake's chart. The party were at first encamped upon the south end of Facing' Island^ but afterwards removed to the main land^ upon a site for the new township of Gladstone havino- been chosen there. The settle- ment^ however^ was abandoned^ after a short-lived existence of five months^ in obedience to orders received from home^ consequent upon a chang'e in the plans of Government reg'arding- the disposal of convicts^ for '^ North Australia " had been originally intended to be a penal settlement^ or one for the reception of ^^ exiles." The expenses incurred by this experiment amounted to upwards of £15^000. The survey of the harbour and its approaches occupied a period of three weeks. Althoug-h this work had ceased to be one of immediate importance^ yet it Avill eventually be of considerable benefit to the colony of New South Wales^ as the gradual extension of the squatting" stations to the northward E 2 52 POET CURTIS. from the Wide Bay district must^ ere long'^ call Port Curtis into requisition as a harbour^ and thus enable the settlers to obviate the necessity of a long* and expensive land carriage to Wide Ba}^^ the nearest place resorted to by the small coasting* vessels^ communicating* with Brisbane and Sydney. In illustration of this important subject^ I cannot do better than quote portions of a despatch from Colonel Barney to Sir Charles Fitzroy, dated Sydney^ 20th July^ 1847^ published in a return ordered by the House of Commons. *' The extent of land fit for agriculture, within a {ew miles of the coast, far exceeds the expectations I had formed on my first visit. Timber for dwelling-houses and for shipbuilding is abundant, and of the best description, and within five miles of South Shore Head (the best site for a settlement) there is to be found pipeclay, brick-earth, ironstone, freestone, granite, trap, slate, indications of coal ; and independent of a great supply of shells for lime on the immediate site, there is at the head of one of the navigable salt creeks a fine fresh-water stream running over a bed of lime- stone ; a second creek, in which the ' Lord Auckland ' of 600 tons, is hove down, also navigable for ten or twelve miles, termi- nates in extensive water-holes ; indeed within the port there are four inlets or creeks, navigable from ten to fifteen miles for vessels drawing eight or nine feet of water, each terminating in fresh water. "The position and extent of Port Curtis, which I take to be the third harbour in importance in these seas, inferior only to Port Jackson and Hobart Town, must shortly lead to an establish- ment on its shore, offering security to numerous whaling vessels, which are now compelled to proceed to Sydney for repairs and supplies ; it must also become an important depot for supplying steamers on passage to India with coal, which I have reason to PASSAGE OF THE ASP. 53 believe will be found in abundance within a few miles of the coast. I have no doubt also that this port will become celebrated for shipbuilding, possessing, as it does, timber of the highest quality for such purposes, and favourable positions for building, as well as for the construction of docks. " The country is capable of affording all the tropical, as well as a considerable portion of European produce, and will be found highly favourable for the breeding of stock ; indeed, I believe I am correct in stating that numerous parties, with stock to a very large amount, are now within a short distance of Port Curtis, taking up stations, not only with a view to the supply of the projected settlement, but also to the shipment of wool, tallow, &c. direct to England." A few days after our arrival at Port Curtis, the Asp^ as our decked boat had been iiamed^ joined us, having- made an important addition to the surveys of this portion of the coast. On his passag'e up from Brisbane, Lieut. Dayman, under the unex- pected circumstances of finding* that the Rattlesnake had sailed, instead of coasting* along* the eastern side of Great Sandy Island, thus involving* the necessity of rounding* Breaksea Spit, determined upon trying* the passage between that island and the mainland leading* into Hervey's Bay ; this he fortu- nately succeeded in accomplishing*, althoug-h under difficulties which his sketch (since published by the Admiralty), will lessen to those who may require to use the same previously little kno\\n channel. Port Curtis, comprising* a space of about ten miles in leng'th, is enclosed between Faciiig* Island on the east, or to seaward, Curtis Island on the north, and the shores of the main land on the Avestern side^ 54 FACING ISLAND. leaving" to the southward a wide entrance partially blocked up by shoals. Besides the narrow channel described by Flinders as leading* between the south end of Facing' Island and the larg'e bank of shoal w^ater extending* about six miles to the south-east^ a second^ and much safer one^ the least width of which is upwards of a mile^ was discovered between the larg'e bank and others of less extent towards the main land. We landed almost daily upon Facing* Island, which was traversed in every direction^ but nowhere could we find a practicable watering* place for the ship ', in fact^ during* our excursions^ it was found necessary to carry a supply of water with us^ not being' able to depend upon obtaining* an}" on shore. The island is 8^ miles long* and 2| in g*reatest width ; it is generally low^ the most elevated part^ Sig'nal Hill^ situated at its south end^ measuring* only 275 feet in heig'ht. Its aspect is various; the shores^ as well as those of the adjacent main land^ are often muddy, and covered with mang-roves^ fring'ing* creeks, and occupying' swamps more or less extensive^ while the remainder of the countr}^ is either covered with the usual monotonous g'um-trees^ or^ as over a larg'e portion of the sea face^ covered with coarse sedg*y g-rass and small bushes^ on sandy g-round^ which rises into a series of low sand hills ex- tending' along' the coast. During- winter there must be much w a ter^ judging* from several nearly dried up lagoons and swamps^ and some empty water-courses. EXCURSION ON THE ISLAND. 65 In company with Mr. Huxley^ I made an excur- sion of two days' duration^ with the double view of seeing- the country and adding* to my collection. We started heavily laden w^ith provisions^ water^ arms and ammunition^ besides boxes, botanical paper and boards, and other collecting* g*ear ; and althoug'h taking* it very easily, the fatig-ue of walking* in a sultry day, with the thermometer at 90"" in the shade^ afforded a sample of what Ave had afterwards so often to experience during* our rambles in tropical Australia. Towards the northern end of the island we found several creeks and lag-oons of salt and brackish water, occasionally communicating* with the sea^ probably under the conjoined influences of spring* tides and a strong* easterly wind. Towards evening*, finding* among* the contents of our g*ame- bag*s several ducks, of two species — Anas super ci- liosa, the '^ black duck ^' of the colonists^ the richest and best flavoured of all the Australian water-fowl, and A . punctata, or " teal/' we had them cooked '' bush fashion," for supper. The nig*ht being* fine, we enjoyed our bivouac upon the top of a sand-hill, near the sea, by the side of a dead Pandanus, which served as firewood, — althoug*h it was judg*ed expe- dient to keep watch by turns, and g*o the rounds occasionally, especially after the setting* of the moon and before daybreak. We saw no recent sig*ns of natives, however, during* our absence from the ship ; but former experience upon this coast had taug'ht me how necessary it is to be ever on one's g*uard, 56 GLADSTONE SETTLEMENT. even in npparently uninhabited places; and such watchfuhiess soon becomes habitual^ and at length ceases to be irksome. Next day we returned to the ship^ more than ever convinced of the comparative uselessness of the country which we had g'one over for ag'ricultural or even jiastoral purposes^ except on a very small scale. On our way back we met with two horses^ both in g'ood condition^ which had been left by Colonel Barney's pnrty. On another occasion Mr. Huxley and myself landed at the site of the settlement of Gladstone^ and were picked up in the evening* by Capt. Stanley in one of the surveying' boats^ on his return to the ship. It is difficult to conceive a more dreary spot^ and yet I saw no more elig'ible place for a settle- ment on the shores of the harbour. A few piles of bricks^ the sites of the tents^ some posts^ indicating* the remains of a provisional ^' Government-house/' wheel-ruts in the hardened clay^ the stumj)s of felled trees^ together ^^ith a g'oodly store of empt}' bottles strewed about everywhere^ remained as characteris- tics of the first stag*e of Australian colonization. Within 200 }'ards of the township we came upon a g'reat expanse of several hundred acres of bare mud^ g-listening* with crystals of salt^ bordered on one side by a deep mudd}^ creek^ and separated from the shore by thickets of mangToves. The country for several miles around is barren in the extreme^ con- sisting* for the most part of undulating*^ stony^ forest land. I have heard^ however^ that there is much NATIVES SEEN AT A DISTANCE. 57 g'ood pastoral country at the back. We found no fresh water during' our walk* of two wells which had been dug* by the settlers^ through stiff clay^ one was dry^ and the other contained a puddle of brackish water^ not fit to drink. We met with few birds^ but saw many tracks of emus and kang'aroos. During- our stay at Port Curtis^ we had no inter- course whatever with the natives^ although anxious to establish friendly communication. With the aid of the spyglass_, we could occasionally make out a fcAV^ chiefly women^ collecting shell-fish on the mud flats of the main land^ and their fires were daily seen in every direction. The employment of fire- arms against them on several occasions by the crew of the Lord Auckland (under^ apparently^ justifiable circumstances however)^ which left the harbour^ after repairing her damages^ only a few months before our arrival^ had probably taug'ht the natives to look with distrust upon white men ; and they cautiously avoided our parties. On Facing* Island^ our sportsmen found little inland to recompense them for their trouble^ except blue mountain parrots and quail* but along* the shore^ curlews^ ojstercatchers^ and godwits^ were plentiful. One da}' I killed a bustard (Otis Austral- as'uma), weighing* 22^ pounds ; the goodness of its flesh was duly appreciated by my messmates. Several small flocks of this noblest of the Australian o-ame- birds were seen ; but^ from their frequenting* the 58 SHARKS AND SHELLS. open country^ and beings very wary^ it is only by stratag'em or accident that they can be approached within g'unshot. No hmd snakes were seen^ but sea snakes seem to be frequent in the harbour. Sharks of enormous size appeared to be common 5 one day we caught two^ and while the iirst taken was hang*ing- under the ship's stern, others made repeated attacks upon it^ raising- their heads par- tially out of the water^ and tearing* off long- strips of the flesh before the creature was dead. Another swam off apparently as active as ever^ althoug-h a musket ball had been fired through its head. On several occasions a party was sent to haul the seine upon a neighbouring mud flat covered at high water, and generally made good captures, especially of mullet and bream (Chrysoplirys) ; in addition, many other more curious fishes were caught, and several rare and new Crustacea — Sqiiilla^ Lupea Thalamita, and a new genus allied to GonoplaXj which will be found described in the Appendix. Of landshells, only two kinds, a Helix and a Succinea, were found upon Facing Island. Of marine species, 41 were added to the collection ; the most important in a non-zoological point of view is a kind of rock ovster of delicious flavour and large size. JVov, 29th. — Sailed from Port Louis for the northward, in company with the Asp, the Bramble being sent to Moreton Bay in order to communicate the results of the survey to the Colonial Govern- LEAVE PORT CURTIS FOR THE NORTHWARD. 59 ment, and rejoin us at Cape Upstart. For the next two days lig'ht northerly winds prevailed^ after which we had the wind fi^om about E.S.E. Dec, ^rd, — Percy Isles. The Asp having- made a sig*nal for assistance^ and it being* ascertained that she had lost her ding*ey and bumpkin by a sea which struck her while crossing- a tide-race, it was judg'ed necessary to run for the nearest place where the damag-e could be repaired. We consequently anchored under No. 2 of the Percy Isles, to leeward of its south-west point, in 10 fathoms, mud, between it and the Pine Islets of the chart. Here it blew so hard from E.S.E. that a second anchor was let g'o 5 the yards were pointed to the wind, and the top-g^allant masts sent on deck. A party which attempted to land were forced to return, nor was it thoug'ht expedient to repeat the attempt on the followinof dav. We remained at this anchorag'e until the 7 th, and found the g'ale to subside into the south-east trade. This is the larg'est of the Percy Isles, being- about twelve or fourteen miles in circumference. In structure, it may be said to consist of a series of hills running- in ridg'es, many of them covered with g'um- tree scrub j and all with long- gTass g-rowing- in tufts, concealing* the loose stones, and rendering- walkino* very laborious. On the western side of the island, about a mile from the anchorag-e, the sea communi- cates, by a narrow entrance, with a larg*e basin partially blocked up w ith mangroves, among- which a 60 PERCY ISLES. creek filled at hig-h water^ runs up for a mile. At the head of this hollow a deeply worn dried-up water- course indicated the periodical abundance of fresh water ; and b}^ tracing* it up about a mile further^ I found man}^ larg^e pools among- the rocks contain- ing* a sufficient supply for the ship^ but unavailable to us in consequence of the difficulty in g-etting" at it. Sig*ns of natives were frequently met with^ but none were recent. From the quantities of turtle- bones about the fire-places^ it is evident that these animals occasionally resort to a small sandy beach near the entrance of the basin above alluded to. The botany of the island afforded at this unfavourable season not more than fixe, or six species of plants in flower^ some of ^vhich I had met with elsewhere. A species of pine^ Araucaria Cunningliamiy is found here in small quantities^ but more plentifully on the adjacent Pine Islets^ where it appears to constitute the only arboreal vegetation. A few cabbag'e palms^ Corypha AustraliSy are the onlv other trees ^Aort'i mentionino*. Amono- the birds observed^ black and vvhite cockatoos^ swamp pheasants^ and crows were the most numerous. A fine banded snail^ Helix Inceij vras the only land- shell met with. A Littorina and a Nerita occur abundantly on the trunks and stems of the man- groves^ and the creek swarmed with sting'-rays (Tryqon)^ and numbers of a dull green s^^imming crab. During our stay-j the bush was thoughtlessl}^ set BUSH FIRE. 61 on fire by some of our people^ and continued burn- in o- for se\eral days, until nenrly the whole island had been passed over ; the long- dry g-rass and dead trees blazing* very fiercely under the influence of a high wind. At nig'ht the sig'ht of the burning- scrub was very fine when viewed from a distance^ but I did not forg-et that I had one day been much closer to it than was pleasant— in fact^ it was only by first soaking- my clothes in a pool among* the rocks^ emptA'ing- the contents of my powder flask to pre- vent the risk of being- blown up^ and then making- a desperate rush throug-h a belt of burning- scrub^ that I succeeded in reaching- a place of safety. Sing-ularly enoug-h^ the Asp's ding-ey was picked up uninjured on one of the sandy beaches of this island^ and on December 7th we left the anchorag-e with a strono- south-easterly wind, and anchored for the nig-ht under one of Sir James Smith's g-roup. On the following- day we ran throug-h part of Whitsunday Passag-e^ so named by Cook^ and anchored in Port MoUe^ in seven and a half fathoms^ a quarter of a mile off* shore. The best anchorage here appears to be in the second bay as you round the end of the island^ forming- theS.E. side of the harbour; it may be known by a sandy beach at the head. During our stay of two days^ search was made for water in every likely spot, but none could be found. In the dried up beds of three shallow lao'oons (one of which I had seen half filled four years before)^ we found native wells^ one dug to the 62 POUT MOLLE depth of six feet^ but the water had disappeared. Port Molle^ besides being* a well sheltered harbour from all prevailing- winds^ has a much more pleasing- aspect than almost any place I have seen on the north-east coast of Australia. To ourselves the chano-e was ao-reeable ; instead of the monotonous g'um-trees and mang*roves of Port Curtis and the scantily wooded stony hills of the Percy Isles^ we had here many varieties of woodland veg-etation^ including- some larg-e patches of dense brush or jung'le^ in which one mig'ht observe every shade of green from the sombre hue of the pine^ to the pale green of the cabbage-palm. Some rare birds were procured in the brushes^ — two of them appear here to attain their southern limits of distribution upon the north-east coast of Australia ; they are the Australian sun-bird (Cinnyris Australis), reminding one of the hum- ming' birds from its rich metallic colouring^ and the Megapodius Tumulus^ a rasorial bird^ the size of a fowl; which constructs great mounds of earthy leaves^ sticks^ stones^ and coral^ in which the eggs are deposited at a depth of several feet from the surface^ and left there to be hatched by the heat of the fermenting mass of vegetable matter. In addition to these_, our sportsmen were successful in procuring* numbers of the pheasant-tailed pigeon^ and the brush-turkey (^Talegalla Lathami), the latter much esteemed; from the goodness of its flesh. Many plants and insects as well as several land-shells^ new CAPE UPSTART— FIND NO WATER. 63 to science^ which will elsewhere be alluded to^ were added to the collection. Doubtless iish are also plentiful here^ but we were prevented from hauling* the seine by the remains of a wreck in the centre of a flat of muddy sand at the head of the bay where we were anchored ] the vessel^ I have since heard^ had come in contact Avith a coral reef^ and been run on shore here^ in order to save a portion of her stores. Dec, 10 th. — In company with the Asp we ran up to the northward to Cape Upstart^ a distance of about ninety miles^ and anchored in five fathoms off the sandy beach inside the point. Two boats were immediatel}^ sent to search for water^ but we found the pools where the Fly had watered^ in 1844, completel}^ empt}^ ^ and it was not until the deep rocky bed of the torrent had been traced upwards of a mile hig^her up on the following* morning*^ that fresh water was met with ; but at too g*reat a dis- tance from the shore^ to be available for our purposes. Judg*ing* from the almost total want of water at all the places hitherto visited on this coast since entering* the tropics that there was little probability of our finding* it at Goold Island^ Captain Stanley determined to proceed no further^ but return at once to Sydney^ by way of Moreton Bay^ and letters were left for Lieutenant Yule sig'nifying* this in- tention. Dec, 15th. —Three days ag*o we sailed for Cape 64 EETURN TO SYDNEY. Upstart on our return to the southward^ working* down the coast against a strong- trade-wind^ the Asp keeping* in shore to survey the neighbourhood of the coast hne^ imperfectly and erroneously laid down upon the Admiralty chart. We had calms and light winds A^ith thick rainy weather in the morning. While in Whitsunday Passaofe, a small hark canoe with two natives came off to within a quarter of a mile of the ship^ shouting loudly and making* gestures to attract attention^ but we did not stop ; in fact^ ever}^ moment now was precious^ as we Avere upon reduced allowance of water. Soon after noon we anchored in Port MoUe^ and next day the Asp was stripped and hoisted inboard. Dec, 21st. — Since we left Port MoUe^ the winds have been variable from the nortliA^ard and east- ward^ with calms^ and the weather quite unsettled with occasional rain. While nearly becalmed, several opportunities were afforded for dredging from the ship^ and many new and curious marine animals were procured. To-day we had the wind from E.S.E.^ gradually freshening to a moderate gale with the sea getting* up^ and in the evening* it was judged expedient to bear up and run for an anchorage under the largest Keppel's Isle^ where we broug'ht up in five and a half fathoms^ sand. A line of breaking water a quarter of a mile to leeward, was afterwards found to be caused by a dangerous reef not indicated upon the chart^ where^ keppel's isle. 65 instead; an ancliorag*e was marked^ a circumstance which mig'ht have led to serious results^ had w^e run in durino- the nio-ht. KeppeFs Isle is from ten to twelve miles in circumference— it is distant from the mahiland six miles. That portion of it seen from our anchorag-e presented rather a pleasant appearance y some fine verdant g-rassy looking* places were^ however^ found on closer inspection to be poor stony or sandy g-round^ thinly covered wdth tufts of coarse g*rass. Behind a long- sandy beach abreast of the ship; an extensive hollow apparently running* back for two or three miles^ flanked by low wooded hills^ was found to be a mangrove sw^amp traversed by several branches of a salt-water creek^ by w^hich the flood-tide g'ains admittance. Here I found numbers of a singailar fish of the genus Chironectes leaping* wdth g'reat activity over the mud among* the arched roots of the mang-roves^ among* which small crabs {Ocypoda and 3Iacrophtkahmis) were making* for their burrow^s in all directions. Fresh water appeared scarce — I came upon one small well^ and beside it a large shell for the purpose of drinking* from. I follow ed the recent tracks of tw o natives^ but they concealed themselves among* the mang-roves^ with their usual caution^ althoug-h armed Avith spears^ as I could see by the marks left during* their hurried flio*ht, and thev knew that I was alone. A small g'roup of women and children Avere afterwards met with by a shooting* party from the ship^ but thej^ VOL. I. F G() ARRIVE AT SYDNEY. ran off afFrig'hted^ leaving' behind their baskets^ which were filled with a small blue greg*arious crab^ common upon the sandy beaches. After leaving" our anchor a g'e under Keppel's Island^ we continued working' to the southward ao-ainst a strono- S.E. wind. On the 24th while standing' in for the land^ about 11 p.m.^ the ship was suddenly found to be within a cable's length of the rocks off the N.E. end of Facing* Island^ on which we were fortunate in not having' to spend our Christmas. Next day a water-snake ( Hypotropliis Jvkesii) four feet two inches long' was caug-ht when we were several miles off the land ; it had acciden- tally been hooked by the tail by some one fishing* for albacore_, several of which fine fish were taken hereabouts. We rounded Breaksea Spit on De- cember 29th^ and two days afterwards arrived at Moreton Bay, Avhere we found the Bramble. During- our stay at Yule's Eoads^ we had much g'loomy blowing* weather^ with drizzly rain^ and a heavy g'ale from N.E. to N.N.E. After replenish- ing- our nearly exhausted stock of water, we sailed for Sydne}^;, which we reached on Januar}^ 14th^ 1848. During' this passage we were much aided by the strong current^ and had usually the wind between S.E. and E.S.E.^ with occasional calms. F'eh, 2nd, 1848. — During our absence from Sydney^ and since our arrival^ some events of great impor- tance to the colony had occurred. Pubhc attention had been strongly directed towards the question of EECENT OCCURREXCES IN SYDNEY. 07 Steam Communication with India and Eno-land, the facilitating- of which was one of the principal objects of the Voyag-e of the Rattlesnake.* Meet- ing's to discuss the practicability of forming- rail- roadsf had also been held. Dr. Leichhardt^ the well-known^ indefatig-able traveller^ had started with a party to attempt to traverse the Continent of Australia^ and reach Swan River^ — and Mr. Kennedy had returned from tracing- the Victoria River of Sir Thomas Mitchell^ Avhich he found to become lost in the stony desert of Sturt^ instead of disembog'uing- into the head of the Gulf of Carjjen- taria^ as some had conjectured. During- our stay the 60th anniversary of the foundation of the colony w^as celebrated^ and a large proportion of the 50^000 inhabitants of Sydney and the neig-hbourhood joined in the festivities and amusements commemorating- so g'lorious a day in the annals of their adopted country. When wit- nessing- the g-aieties of the reg-atta^ I could not help reflecting- on the simple narrative of the first founder of what may hereafter become a g-reat empire^ a mig'ht}' monument of the g-enius of the Ang'lo-Saxon race. '^The spot chosen for our encampment/^ says Colonel Collins^ '^ was at the head of the cove * This project, I regret to add, has not yet been carried into effect, nor does there appear to be any reasonable prospect of its speedy accomplishment. t I have lately heard that the first Australian railroad has actually been commenced at Sydney. F 2 08 FOUNDATION OF THE COLONY. near the rim of fresli water which stole silently along' throug-h a very thick wood^ the stillness of which had then_, for the first time since the creation^ been interrupted by the rude sound of the labourer's axe^ and the downfall of its ancient inhabitants y a stillness and tranquillit}^ which from that day were to giA^e place to the voice of labour^ the confusion of camps^ and the busy hum of its new possessors."* Finding- that there was yet some time to spare before the arrival of the usual period for leaving- Sydney to pass throug-h Torres Strait^ Captain Stanley resolved upon acting' in accordance with the expressed wishes of the Colonial Government^ that he should make an inspection of the various lig-hthouses in Bass' Strait^ and for that purpose sailed from S3'dney on February 2nd, with the Rattlesnake and Bramble. The Asp and one of the g-allej^s accompanied us as far as Botany Bay^ which the}" v.ere to be em- ployed in surveying' during' our absence^ under the orders of Lieut. Simpson. On February 8th^ we passed between Kent's and Hog-an's g-roups (in Bass' Strait) • the lighthouse on the former of these^ perched upon a hill 829 feet hig'h^ is admirably situated^ and although the night was rather hazy^ the light (revolving) shone out with great brilliance^ and was afterwards seen from the Bramble's deck^ when thirtj'-seven miles distant. We caught^ in the narrows of the Strait^ * Collins's New South Wales, 2ncl edit. p. 10. bass' strait. 69 iminbers of baracoudas^ a very bold and ravenous lish^ and withal a good eating* one^ measuring from two to three feet in length ; they bite eagerly at a hook towing* astern^ baited with a piece of red or Avhite rag^ and are taken in greatest numbers when several miles distant from the land^ and the vessel is going from four to eight knots through the water. Two days afterwards^ the weather being extremely favourable for the purpose^ I g'ot several hauls with the dredge in fortj^-five fathoms^ sandy bottom^ and^ in addition to many curious Crustacea and shell-fish^ a number of very fine zoophytes^ almost all of them new to science^ were in such abundance as quickly to fill the net. Feb, lltlu — While standing off and on the land during a fog^ a partial clearing up shewed the entrance to Port Phillip^ with its lighthouse/ and after passing* through between the heads^ with the usual strong tide ripple^ we reached the anchorage at Hobson's Bay after dark. I found no alteration in William's Town^ since a former visit made two years ago. The place * Of this Captain Stanley remarks — " In consequence of being placed so far within the heads, the light is visible to seaward only between the bearings of S^W. and S.W.2-W. A better position would be on Lonsdale Point, when the light would be seen by vessels coming from the eastward as soon as they rounded Cape Schank. It would also serve as a leading mark for navi- gating the southern channel, but the tower would require to be of considerable height to shew the light over Shorthand's Bluff to vessels inside the harbour." 70 ARRIVE AT PORT PHILLIP— MELBOURNE. appeared to be completel}^ at a stand-stilly as a small strag-g-ling' villag-e of 200 inhabitants^ chiefly dependent upon the shipping- for support. Far different Avas it with Melbourne^ the capital of the district. On our way in a steamer up the Yarra- Yarra^ several larg-e and recently constructed boil- ing*-down establishments in full work indicated the extensive operation of the tallow-manufacturing" pro- cess. The town (or city as it may^ I believe^ be termed) appeared to have wonderfully increased of latC; and a quiet business-like air prevailed. Every- where w^e met bullock-teams and drays recently amved with wool^ or on their return to the sheep stations with supplies^ but there were few loung-ers like ourselves in the streets, nearly every one seem- ing* to have his time fully occupied. It appeared to be the g*eneral and loudly expressed opinion, so far as we could judg*e, that the separation of the Port Phillip district from New South Wales, and its formation into an independent colony, would materially advance the interests and conduce to the prosperity of the former ; and that the larg'e surplus revenue which is annually trans- mitted to Sydney oug"ht to be spent among* the people who have raised it.* One day some of us made up a party to visit * These and other claims of the colonists have, I need scarcely add, been fully admitted by the recent separation from New South Wales of the Port Phillip district, now the colony of Victoria , GEELONG. 71 Geeloiig*, the town in this district of next importance to Melbourne^ from which it is distant^ by water^ fifty-five miles. The western shores of Port Phillip^ along" which we passed^ are low_, thinly wooded^ and bear a very monotonous aspect. Vast numbers of a larg'e ^^ sea-jelly^' {Rhizostoma llosalca), g-ave the water quite a milky appearance. I was sur- prised to find the town^ only a few years old^ to be one already containing* about 3000 inhabitants. It is built on a rang'e of low gravelly banks facing- the harbour^ from which it extends backwards in a strag-g'ling' manner towards the river Barwon^ which^ at the distance of a mile and a half^ was then 100 yards wide^ deep; and without current. The town of Geelong' derives its consequence from being" a convenient outlet for the wool and other produce of the southern districts of Port Phillip — perhaps the best sheep country in Australia. Four or five vessels were then loading' for Eng-land. Unfortunately^ Corio Harbour^ on the shores of which the town is built^ is blocked up by a bar^ and vessels of moderate size are oblio'ed to remain in Geelong- Bay^ about five miles ofF^ while discharging* or receiving carg'o. Five days after clearino- the Heads of Port Phillip^ we had crossed Bass' Strait,* and anchored * For every information required by navigators passing through Bass' Strait, I would refer to Discoveries in Austraha, with an account of the Coasts and Rivers explored and surveyed during the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in the years 1837-43, by J. Lort 72 PORT DALRYMPLE. in Port Dalrymple^ on the northern coast of Van Diemen's Land^ and remained there sufficiently long' to obtain rates for the chronometers^ and con- nect it by meridian distance with William's To^^ n^ and Sydney.* The two lig'hthouses of Banks' Strait only now remained unvisited^ that on the Kent Group^ and another on Cape Otwa^^^ having* been left to Lieut. Yule. March 3r^. — With the help of a strong- westerly wind we reached Goose Island at 5 p.m.^ and a party from the ship landed immediately after an- choring*. The island is one and a half miles in leng'th^ by one in greatest breadth. The rock is a coarse sienite^ forming- detached bare masses and ridg-es^ but none of considerable heig-ht. In the hollows the soil appears rich^ dark^ and pulverulent^ with much admixture of unformed bii*d-g-uano. The Stokes, Commander, R.N., and to the Admiralty chart by Capt. Stokes. On this subject I find a MS. note by Capt. Stanley : ** Stokes has mentioned in his chart that * there is little or no tide in Bass' Strait.' Such may be the case, but I have in- variably found a very strong current, depending both as to force and direction upon the prevailing winds. On one occasion, during a westerly gale, it set to the eastward with a velocity of at least three knots per hour. I mention this circumstance, as, from Capt. Stokes' remarks, strangers might be led to suppose there were no currents in the Strait, and neglect to take the usual pre- cautions." * It is unnecessary to give separately the various meridian dis- tances obtained by the Rattlesnake and Bramble, as these will be found, M'ith the various circumstances affecting their value, in the Appendix, GOOSE ISLAND. 73 scanty vegetation is apparently limited to a grass gTowing- in tussocks^ and a few maritime plants. The ground resembles a rabbit warren^ being* every- where midermined by the bmTows of the mutton- bird^ a dark shearwater [Piiffiuus hrevicaudus), the size of a pig'eon. A person in walking- across the island can scarcely avoid frequently stumbling* among" these burrows^ from the earth g*iving* Avay under his feet^ and I Avas told by one of the residents that snakes are very numerous in these holes^ living* upon the mutton-birds; I m3^self trod upon one which^ fortunately^ was too slug*g'ish to escape be- fore I had time to shoot it^ and ascertain it to be the well known '' black snake'' of the Australian colonists (AcanfJwijJiis Toi^tor)^ a very poisonous species. Among* the sea fowl; a larg*e ^\}\{{Larus Pacificus), was exceeding-ly plentiful^ tog-ether with a smaller one (Xevia Jamesonii), and a few penguins {Splmiiscus minor), A fine flock of wild gee^e {Cereopsis JYovcb Hollancli(B)yy^2i^ seen^ but they were too wary to allow of close approach. About dusk clouds of mutton- birds came in from the sea^ and we amused ourselves with chasing* them over the ground among* their burrows^ and as many specimens as I required were speedily provided by knocking them down with a stick. As usual with the Petrel family they bite severely if incautiously handled^ and disgorge a quantity of offensive oily matter^ the smell of which pervades the whole island_, and which the clothes I then wore retained for a long time afterwards. 74 SWAN ISLAND. The party in charg*e of the lig-hthouse have numbers of g-oats^ pig"S; and sheep_, and also raise a few potatoes and other vegetables 3 still their life is a hard one — more so comparatively^ than that of the keepers of the Eddy stone or Bell Rock lig^hts at home^ as they communicate with Van Diemen's Land only twice a year^ and are often in want of fuel; which they have to send for to a neig'hbouring* island. Ifarch 4tth. — Aided by the remains of a strong- westerly wind; with which we at one time log'g'ed ten and a half knots— a great feat for the old Rattlesnake^ jury-rig-g-ed as she was for ^^ surveying- service/' we passed through part of Banks' Strait^ and anchored off Swan Island at 9 A.M. The rock is a fine grained basalt^ exposed only on the shorC; the remainder of the island being a series of sand-hills covered with low shrubs and luxuriant grass growing in tufts. Having left Captain Stanley's party on their way to the lighthouse^ I found on the western side of the island a lono- sandy beach strewed with marine rejectamenta^ among which were many new species of zoophytes ; the number and variety of sponges was very great; but nearly all had suffered so much from exposure to the sun and weather^ as to be useless as speci- mens. Returning to the ship before noon^ we immediately got under weigh for Sydney. March Qth, — Yesterday morning we picked up a strong S.S.E. wind, which brought us off Botany RETURN TO SYDNEY. 75 Bay by 8 a.m.^ but the weather being* thick with rain^ and the land doubtful^ being seen only in occasional g'limpses^ it was judg-ed prudent to haul off. standino* in ao^ain during' a clearinof. At leno-th the lig-hthouse was disting-uished^ when we bore up^ and in little more than an hour reached our former anchorage in Farm Cove. CHAPTER III. SAIL ON OrE SECOl^TD KOETHEEl^ CEriZE — ENTEANCE TO THE INJS^EE PASSAGE— AEEIYE AT EOCKI]!fGHAM BAT — LAITD ME. Kennedy's expedition— commence the srEYEY at dune: island— communication with natiyes— baenaed isles — botanical sketch — examine a new eivee — feankland isles — find the cocoa-nut palm— eitzeot island — the will o' the wisp and hee story— teinity bay— animals of a coeal eeef — stay at lizaed island — howick, pelican, and claeemont isles bied isles — meet paety op natiyes in disteess — caienceoss island — aeeiye at cape yoek. April 29^A.— The season for passing- throug-li Torres Strait from the southward having* arrived, we left Port Jackson on a ten-months cruize, in order to complete the survey of the Inner Passage, or the clear channel between the north-east coast of Australia and the inner edge of the outer reefs, which again are bounded to seaward by the Great Barrier Reef, stretching from north to south, for a distance of upwards of 1000 miles. In the evening' we were joined by the Tarn O'Shanter, a barque having on board a colonial overland expedition under Mr. Kennedy, which we are to accompany to Rockiug'ham Bay, 1200 miles SAIL ON SECOND NORTHERN CRUIZE. 77 north from S3^dney^ where we are to assist in the disembarkation and starting of the party. For the first nine days we averag'ed only thirty miles a day^ owing* to a long continuance of calms and light winds with a strong adverse current^ which on one occasion set us to E.S.E. fifty-three miles in twent3^-four hours. At lengthy on May 8th we picked up a strong southerl}^ breeze^ accompanied by a northerly set. On May 12th we rounded Breaksea Spit; and Captain Stanley finding his original intention of passing inside of Lady Elliot's Island impracticable^ or at least involving un- necessary delay^ determined to bear up N W. by W. keeping outside of the Bunker and Capricorn Groups^ and try the channel previously passed through by Captain F. P. Blackwood in H. M. S. Fly. Captain Stanley's remarks on this subject are so important^ that I give them verbatim : — ^^ After reaching Lady Elliot's Island^ we steered a course direct for the High Peak of the Northum- berland Islands^ so as to pass between Bunker's Group and Swain's Beefs^ which affords a far better entrance into the Inner Passage^ than the old route round Breaksea Spit inside the Bunker Group ; when the course requires to be changed^ and the channel is much narrower. We sounded every half-hour without finding bottom^ Avith from 80 to 120 fathoms^ till we came to the soundings laid down by the Fly^ which we found to agree almost exactly with ours. ^c. , . ^ A^'^' ■■■■ .'N. k \ 78 ENTRANCE TO THE INNER PASSAGE. ^' Our soundino's ^vere obtained by usiiip* Massev's patent lead^ with which we found we could reach the bottom at twenty-six fathoms^ when the ship was g'oing" 9.2 knots an hour; and with such a guide any error in the reckoning* w^ould be detected^ even by nig'ht^ as the Bunker Group g-ives warning* by the sounding-s. For a steamer g'oing to Sydney by the Inner Eoute^ this channel would be in- valuable as far as the Pine Peak of the Percy Isles. One direct course will lead out to sea clear of all the reefs^ a distance of more than 200 miles, during* which period there w^ould be ample time to ascertain by observations of the sun, whether any current had been experienced sufficient to place the ship in dang-er, and, as the channel between Swain's Keef and the Bunker Group appears to be clear, there is a drift of thirty miles on each side the course from the High Peak." May 15fA.— After having* at daylight sighted the land about Port Bowen and Cape Townshend, we passed the Northumberland and Percy Isles to the w^estward, the water being very smooth with lig*ht airs from S. to E.N.E. A very offensive smell which has been experienced in the after part of the ship for a week back, was to-day traced to some preserved meats prepared in Sydney ; 103G pounds of these being found quite putrid were condemned.* * It is but justice to state here that the EngHsh invention of preserving meat in air-tight canisters had only recently been attempted in Sydney ; and it was then to be regarded merely as CAPE UPSTAKT. 79 3Iay 19fJi. — At leiig'th^ after several daysof %ht and contrary winds^ the wind came round to S.E. and assumed the appearance of the trade^ which we had at last picked up. We ran round the north-east end of the Cumherland Islands^ passed Cape Gloucester^ and in the evening- anchored under Cape Upstart in our former berth. During* a solitary ramble next day^ chiefly in order to search for a kind of rock wallaby^ or small kang-aroo^ peculiar to this place^ and which I failed on this occasion (as during' two previous visits) to procure^ I walked as far as the place where the Fly had watered some years previously. The larg*e rocky basin which we had found dry in December last^ when the whole plan of our first northern cruize had to be altered^ in consequence of this unexpected result^ was now nearly full. The aspect of the country had been considerably changed by the late abundant fall of rain, and the veg^etation everywhere looked quite g*reen. No sig'ns of natives were seen — their visits to the immediate vicinity of the Cape appear to be made only at rare intervals ; and the just an experiment to try whether a new and important article of colonial export could not be produced. Since then, further experience in the process has enabled the introducers of the plan to succeed so perfectly, that afterwards, the colonial preserved meats supplied to the Rattlesnake, including some which had been kept for eighteen months, were always preferred by ns to those prepared in England. The meat itself, I allude to beef and mutton, was of better quality, and the cost much less. 80 GOOLD ISLAND. chastisement bestowed upon them some years ag'o, in consequence of a wanton attack made upon a seining' party will^ probably^ for some time to come, render them cautious of comino- in contact with white men. While wadino- about amono- the tall grass, the long* sharp awns of the prevailing- kind, an AiitJiistiria, were more anno3'ing' than can be described, having forced their way in hundreds through my thin clothing', causing an annoying and painful irritation ; to which, the bites of clouds of musquitoes in a mangrove SAvamp which I bad entered in chase of some bower birds, added a finishing' touch, as if to test the powers of human endurance. Having expended my stock of dust shot, I tried fine sand — which I had somewhere read of as a substitute, but, although used under the most favourable conditions, the experiment proved a complete failure. ^^ Sights'^ for rating the chronometers, to get which was the only object in coming here, having been obtained, we left for Goold Island in the afternoon. May 21st, — Passing outside of the Palm Islands, and rounding' Cape Sandwich, we entered Hockingham Bay, and anchored on the N.W. side of Goold Island, where Ave found the Tarn O'Shanter. This island is about seven miles in circumference, gradually rising' towards the centre, to form a peak 1376 feet in height. The shores are rocky, with occasional sand}^ beaches, and the island is Avell wooded up to its summit ; Eucalypti (gum- NATIVES AND THEITl CANOES. 81 trees), frequently of great size^ being- the predomi- nant trees. The g-rass was very luxuriant and even difficult to wade throug-h, indicating- an abundance of water^ of which several small streams were seen. One of these streamlets close to the anchorag'e is well adapted for watering* a ship at^ as boats can approach within a few yards ; and the supply can ne^er^ I have g*ood reason to believe^ entirely cease. The natives^ a small party of whom were here, have had frequent intercourse with Europeans, and indeed the sig-ht along-side the ship of eig-ht canoes, four of which carried two unarmed men, and the others one each, would of itself, to most people, have been a convincing* proof of a friendly dispo- sition. That such apparent desire to be on friendly terms mig-ht often mislead strang-ers, is not to be wondered at. Yet these same people, a few 3^ears ag-o, made a sudden and most wanton attack upon a seining- party belong-ing- to H.M.S. Fly, and shortly after we left them, they attempted to cut off a small vessel which had called there for water. Their canoes are very simply constructed of a single sheet of bark of the g-um-tree broug-ht tog-ether at the ends, and secured by stitching*. The sitter squats down with his leg-s doubled under him, and uses a small square piece of bark in each hand, as paddles, with one of which he also bales the water out by dexterously scooping- it up from behind him. VOL I. G- 82 LAND MR. KENNEDY^S PARTY. On May 23rd^ a convenient spot for landing the overland expedition having* been found on the shores of Eocking'ham Bay^ we shifted our berth in the afternoon a few miles further to leeward, and anchored under the westernmost of the Family Islands^ in order to be near the place of disem- barkation. On the two following- days everything- belong-ing" to Mr. Kennedy's party (with the exception of one horse drowned while swimming* it ashore) was safely landed^ and his first camp was formed on some open forest land behind the beach^ at a small fresh water creek. The object of Mr. Kennedy's expedition, was to explore the country to the eastward of the dividing- rang-e running* along* the N.E. coast of Australia at a variable distance from the shore^ and terminating- at Cape York^ where a vessel with supplies was to meet the part}' in October, after which they were to start on their return to Sydney ; proceeding- at first down the western side of the peninsula to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then shape such a course as was best calculated to bring- them to the settled districts of New South Wales. Of the disastrous results of this unfortunate expedition, I need not here speak * I shall after- wards have to allude to the melancholy death of its gallant leader, within a day's journey almost of the g*oal which he was strug*g*ling' with desperate energy to reach — the nearest place where assistance could be procured for the few remaining* survivors TSLW.Boone, Piaiisliers, londc3ii.l852 . iraimainoLel feVlTaj-toxvi^thcg. THEY COMMENCE THEIR JOURNEY. 83 of his party^ of whom^ eventually^ only three were saved. I last saw poor Kennedy on the evemng- before he broke up his camp ; he was then in hig*!! spirits and confident of success. The party, of thir- teen men and twenty-eig^ht horses (with carts, a flock of sheep for food, &c.), appeared to be furnished with every requisite for their intended journey, and the arrang-ements and appointments seemed to me to be perfect. Nor did I, despite the foreboding-s of others, arg-ue anything* but a successful result to an undertaking", the blame of failure of which was afterwards attempted to be thrown upon those who had planned it. The small g-ranite island (one of the Family Group) off which we were anchored, afforded little of interest to us. Fresh water was found in small quantities, not available, however, for the use of vessels. The most curious production of the island is an undescribed plant of the singular family Balanoplioracece^ not before known as Australian, which was found here in abundance in the g'loomy brushes, parasitic upon the roots of the tallest trees. We also met with here — in probably its southern hmit upon the coast — a species of rattan ( Calamus Australis)^ with long' prickly shoots, well illustrated in the annexed draAving- by Mr. Huxley, representing- the process of " cutting* through the scrub," during an excursion made with Mr. Ken- nedy, for the purpose of searching* for a way out from the low swampy district of Rockingham Bay. G 2 84 COMMENCE THE SURVEY. May 2Qth. — During* the forenoon^ the ship was moved over to an anchorag'e under the lee (N.W. side) of Dunk Ishmd^ where we remained for ten days. The survey of the coast line and Inner Passag'e to the northward was here commenced, and afterwards continued up to Torres Strait^ h}^ an unhroken series of triang'ulation ; it included a space var^dng- in width from 5 to 15 miles^ extend- ing' throug'h 7^ degrees of latitude and 4^ of long'i- tude^ with a coast line of upwards of GOO miles. The programme of the survey may be briefl}^ given as follows : — at the principal stations — chiefly islands off the coast — the various observa- tions for determining- astronomical positions and theodolite ang'les^ were made by Captain Stanle}^ and Mr. W. H. Obree^ and the ship remained there at anchor for several days. Meanwhile^ Lieut. Da}^- man, in the Asp^ laid down the coast line and neighbourhood as far as the next station twenty or thirt}^ miles in advance. — Lieut. Simpson with the pinnace continued the soundings several miles fur- ther out, both working in conjunction^ and often assisted by another boat in charge of Mr. Heathy Avhile the outside soundings devolved upon Lieut. Yule in the tender. The Rattlesnake in shifting from place to place^ aided by boats in company^ sounded the centre of the channel^ usually following one of the lines run by Captain P. P. King^ and marked upon his charts. The available boats per- manently attached to the ship^ were employed under MODE OF CONDUCTING IT. 85 various officers in the neig'liboiirhood of the different anchorag-es^ cutting- up the gTound^ and filling- up any g-aps which niig'ht otherwise have been left in the new charts. The summit of a very small rocky island^ near the anchorag-e^ named by Captain Stanley^ Mouna Islet^ formed the first station. Dunk Island^ eig'ht or nine miles in circumference^ is well wooded^— it has two conspicuous peaks^ one of which (the N.W. one)^ is 857 feet in heig'ht. Our excursions were confined to the vicinity of the watering* place and the bay in Avhich it is situated. The shores are rocky on one side and sandy on the other^ where a low point runs out to the westward. At their junction^ and under a sloping- hill with larg*e patches of brushy a small stream of fresh water^ running- out over the beach^ furnished a supply for the ship^ although the boats could approach the place closely only at hig"h water. Among* the most interesting* objects of natural history^ are two birds^ one a new and handsome fly- catcher^ Monarcha leiicotis, the other a swallow, which Mr. Gould informs me is also an Indian species. Great numbers of butterflies frequent the neig'hbourhood of the watering* place, — one of these {Papllio Urvillianus) is of g*reat size and splendour, with dark purple wing-s, broadly marg'ined Avith ultramarine, but from its habit of flying* hig-h among* the trees I did not succeed in catching* one. An enormous spider, beautifully varieg*ated with black 86 COMMUNICATION WITH NATIVES STOPPED. and g'old^ is plentiful in the woods^ watching" for its prey in the centre of a larg-e net stretched hori- zontally between the trees. The seine was frequently hauled upon the beach with great success^ — one evenings through its means, in addition to plenty of fish, no less than five kinds of star-fishes, and twelve of Crustacea, several of which are quite new, were broug^ht on shore. Among the plants of the island the most impor- tant is a wild species of plantain or banana, after- wards found to range along the N.E. coast and its islands as far as Cape York. Here I saw for the first time a species of Sciadophylhim, one of the most sino'ular trees of the eastern coast line of tro- pical Australia ; a slender stem, about thirty feet in height, gives off a few branches with immense digi- tate dark and glossy leaves and long spike-like racemes of small scarlet flowers, a great resort for insects and insect-feeding birds. Soon after the ship had come to an anchor, some natives came off in their canoes and paid us a visit, bringing with them a quantity of shell-fish, [Sangui- nolaria riigosa)^ which they eag'erly exchanged for biscuit. For a few days afterwards we occasionally met them on the beach, but at length they dis- appeared altog^ether, in consequence of having been fired at with shot by one of two of the '' young gentlemen" of the Bramble, on a shooting excursion, whom the}^ wished to prevent from approaching too closely a small village, where they had their wives THE BARNARD ISLES. 87 and children. Immediate steps were taken^ in con- sequencOj to prevent the recurrence of such collisions^ when thoug'htless curiosity on one side is apt to he promptly resented on the other, if numerically superior in force. I saw nothing* in the appearance of these natives to disting-uish them from those of Goold Island, and the canoes are the same. The men had larg'e prominent cicatrices on the shoulders, and across the breast and belly, the septum of the nose was perforated, and none of the teeth had been removed. I saAV no weapons, and some rude arm- lets were their only ornaments. On June 6th we ran to the northward 15^ miles, and anchored at noon under No. III. of the Barnard Isles, a gToup consisting* of six high rocky wooded isles, the two southernmost of which are separated from the rest by an interval of four miles. I landed upon the two larg-est, (I. and III. of the charts), on the first only once. I there found nothing* of much interest, except some ver}^ thick beds of conglomerate superimposed upon a compact basaltic looking* rock. No. III., on the other hand, consists of mica slate, much contorted, and altered from its usual appear- ance, and containing' lead ore (galena) , with several veins of quartz, one of which, about two feet in thickness, traverses the island from side to side. The islands of the N. E. coast of Austraha, hitherto and subsequently visited during the survey, afford all the gradations between the simplest form of a sand bank upon a coral reef scantily covered 88 BOTANY OF THE with grass^ a few creeping- plants and stunted bushes on one hand^ — and on the other a hig*h^ rocky ^ well- wooded island with an undulating succession of hills and valleys. In those of the latter class, to a certain extent only in the islands of Rocking-ham Bay^ but in a ver}^ striking- deg'ree in those to the north^vard^ there is so g*reat a similarity in the veg^etation^ that an illustration of the botany may be taken from one of the Barnard Isles^ No. III. — exhibiting- what may be termed an Indo- Australian Flora. The upper marg-in of the coral beach is overrun with Ijwmcea ^naritima, a larg-e purple-flowered BossiceUj and some other leg'uminous plants^ of which the handsomest is Canvallia Baueriana^ a runner with larg'e rose-coloured flowers. To these succeeds a row of bushes of Sccevola Kmnigiiy and Tournefortia argenteay with an occasional Guettarda speciosa, or Morinda citrifoliciy backed b}^ thickets of Paritium Tiliaceum^ and other shrubs supporting" larg'e Cotwolvidacece^ ^ vine-like species of Cissus ; Guilandina Bondiic^ a prickly CcBsaljmiia, Beerin- gia CwIosioideSy and a variety of other climbers. Penetrating' this shrubby border^ one finds himself in Avhat in New South Wales would be called a brush or scrub, and in India a jung-le^ extending- over the g-reater part of the island. Overhead are trees of moderate size^ whose g-eneral character is constituted by a nearly", strnig-ht stem/ seldom branching- except near the top^ and furnished with g'lossy dark green leaves. Interspersed with them there are many BARNARD ISLES. 89 which attain an enormous size^ as in the case of a Hernandaj a Castanospermum, two fabaceous trees^ and others of which neither flowers nor fruit were observed. Two pahns^ Seqforthia elegans, and Livistona inerjnis, also occur here. By far the most remarkable veg'etable productions are the larg'er kinds of climbers. The principal of these^ with a leafless and almost branchless cable-like stem^ sometimes two or three hundred yards in lengthy rises over the summits of the tallest trees^ and connects one with another in its powerful folds^ occasionally descendinp- to the PTound. Another climber^ Lcstibndesia arhorescens^ rises by its slender stems to the tops of the trees, hiding* them in its cascade-hke masses and g-raceful festoons of exuberant foliag'e. Besides several other exogenous woody climbers^ of which a ver}^ remarkable one is a Baukinia, with a compressed stem spirally twisted, round its axis — the most interesting* is Calamus Anstralis, rising' in a clump^ then arching* alono* the o-round and from tree to tree in a similar maner to Flagellar la Indica^ here also abundant. Among* the^^other plants of these brushes, are the curious Dracontium pohjphyllmn^ Avith larg*e simple and fpinnatifid leaves, creeping* hke ivy up the trunks and lower branches of the trees — parasitical LoranthacecEy \\ ith long dependant tufts of rush-like leaves— enormous masses of Acrosficum alcicorne and A. grande^ with an occasional Hoy a carnosa^ DendroUumy or other epiphyte. When the soil is 90 VICTORIA RIFLE-BIRD. rich Caladium macrorliizon grows greg'ariously in shady places^ and Hellenia coerulea on their mar- g'ins^— and among* stones and sometimes on trees^ tufts of Grammitis Australis spread out their large and handsome undivided fi^onds. Two species of rat occur here — one is the larg-e bandicoot of India^ Miis giganteus, doubtless introduced b}^ some wrecked vessel^ the other is the pretty little 3Ius IndicuSj found on all the islands of the north-east coast and Torres Strait. Among the birds^ we found numbers of the Mega- podius^ always a welcome addition to our bill of fare ; but our greatest prize was a new and splendid rifle-bird; which Mr. Gould has since described from my specimens and named Ptiloris VictoricBy as a mark of respect and gratitude for the patronage bestowed upon his great work on the Birds of Austraha^ in the forthcoming' supplement to which it mil be figured along' with some other novelties of the Voyage of the Rattlesnake. Before taking leave of the natural history of the Barnard Group^ I must not omit a pretty butterfly inhabiting the densest parts of the brush 3 it is the Hamadryas Zoilus of the Voyage of the Astrolabe, erroneously supposed in that work to be a native of New Zealand. One day I crossed over to the mainland in a boat sent for the purpose of examining a small river seen there to open upon a long* sandy beach. We found a depth of four feet on the bar at low water^ EXAMINE A NEW RIVEE. 91 SO had no difficulty in entering* — at a quarter of a mile from the mouth the water was quite fresh. We ascended about two miles and a half^ when it became necessary to return on account of the shoalness of the stream^ the boat* having- g-rounded repeatedly. A party of about twenty natives made their appearance as soon as we entered the river^ and after making* ineifectual and repeated attempts to induce us to land^ tAvo or three of their number followed us along* the bank^ while the others made a straio'ht course so as to cut off the windino-s and meet us at our turning- place. The current here ran one and a half knots^ but the quantity of water was trifling- and the channel throug'hout very narrow^ at times sweeping- under the bank^ so as not to allow room for the oars. At first the river was fring-ed with mang-roves^ afterwards with dense brush. The natives followed us down until we anchored for dinner in one of the reaches^ when they all left on hearing* the report of my g-un while shooting* on shore. They were painted with red and white^ two of them being- smeared all over with the former colour^ mixed up Avith some g-reasy substance. They seemed peaceabl}" disposed^ as we saw no arms among* them^ and they approached close enough to take biscuit from our hands. Near the mouth we again landed for half an * Our first cutter, verv serviceable on such occasions from her hght draught ; with fourteen men, arms, provisions, and stove for cooking, &c. she drew only a foot of water. 92 NATIVE VILLAGE. hour^ and found a cluster of three or four dome- shaped huts^ large and roomy^ of neat construction^ covered with sheets of melaleuca bark^ and having* one^ sometimes two entrances. Some fishing' nets^ similar to those used at Moreton Bay^ w^ere seen. The men retired into the bush w^hen we landed^ nor would they come out to me when I advanced alone towards them^ in order to look at the huts. We anchored for the night under No. I. of the Barnard Isles. Megapodii were here very plentiful^ and about daylight very noisy^ running about in all directions^ repeating their loud call of chro-co — chro- CO. Some of the bushes presented a fine show of the scarlet flowers of Disemma coccineay a kind of passion-flower^ before only found at Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks^ during Cook's second voyage. In the morning we returned to the ship. On June 12th^ while passing a small opening in the land^ a little to the northward of Double Pointy the Asp was observed on shore with a signal for assistance^ which was immediately sent^ when she was got ofl* without damage. At this place^ as Lieut. Simpson informed me^ a boomerang was obtained from the natives ; we had not before observed this singular Aveapon upon the north-east coast^ and its use is quite unknown on the north coast fi^om Cape York to Port Essington. This one too was painted green^ a colour which I never heard of elsewhere among the Australians^ whose pigments are blacky white_, yellow, and red. Near this place^ while tacking close in shore^ a FRANKLAND ISLES. 93 native dog- was seen by Lieut. Simpson^ in chace of a small kangaroo^ a\ liicli^ on being- close pressed^ plung-ed into the water and swam out to sea^ when it w as picked up by the boat, leaving* its pursuer standing- on a rock g-azing* wistfully at its intended prey^ until a musket ball^ M'hich ^vent ver}^ near its mark, sent it off at a trot. The kang'aroo lived on board for a few days, and proved to constitute quite a new kind, closely allied to Hahnaturus Thetidis, We anchored in the evening- off the northern extreme of Frankland Isle, No. lY. about three- quarters of a mile off shore. At nig-ht a party was sent on shore to look for turtle^ but, after remaining- there for three hours, having- walked several times round the island, they returned without having* seen the slio-htest trace of these animals. The Frankland Group consists of four islands^ two of which are very small, and each of the other two (I and IV.) about a mile in leng-th. To these may or may not be added another hig-h and much laro-er detached island situated about five miles to the N.AV., about midway between the remainder of the g-roup and the main land. No. IV. is formed of two wooded rocky eminences at its extremes, connected by level g-round, consisting- of dead coral and sand, thickly covered with trees at one part, and scattered bushes at another. The low woody portion of this island is strewed with flat blocks of the same kind of recent coral cong'lomerate that occurs in situ on the beach, also with quantities of 94 SHELL-COLLECTING. pumice twelve feet above high water mark of spring* tides. There is Httle underwood^ the trees overhead forming a shady gTove. Herbaceous plants are few in number — of the others I shall only mention a wild nutmeg, 3Iyristica cimicifera, not, how- ever, of any commercial importance. The Torres Strait rat was exceedingly plentiful here, in hollow trees and logs, also about the roots of the pandanus trees and under blocks of coral. Our dog'S caught many, as they do not shew so much ag'ility as is usual in the g'enus. The principal bird is the meg'apodius, — a gecko, and another small lizard are abundant, — of land shells we found a new Scarahus and a small brown Helix, in great abun- dance under blocks of coral, and on the trunks and branches of trees, a pretty Cyclostoma (C. vitreum) formerly found by the French in New Caledonia, also a new and pretty Helix^ remarkable for its ang'ular sinuated mouth and conical spire, — this last has been named H, Macgillivrayi by Professor E. Forbes. The reef furnished many radiata and Crustacea, and as usual the shell collectors — consist- ing of about one-half the ship's company, reaped a rich harvest of cowries, cones, and spider shells, amounting^ to several hundred weight. One day I was much amused when, on hailing one of our men whom I observed perched up among the top branches of a tree, and asking whether it was a nest that he had found, the answer returned was— ^^ Oh no. Sir, its these geotrocliuses that I am after.'' THE COCOA-NUT PALM. 95 The southernmost island of the group differs fi^om No. IV. in being' hig"her and more rocky. Many of the trees here were very hirg-e^ straight^ and branching" only near the top. It appeared to me that they would be hig-hly useful as timber^ and so regTetted being- unable to procure specimens^ on account of their g-reat heig-ht. With the exception of a low sandy portion^ overg-rown with shrubs and small trees^ the remainder of the island is quite free from underwood. Two small clumps of cocoa-nut trees^ loaded with fruity were found on the eastern side of the island^ within reach of the spray^ in a place where they mig'ht have orig'inated from a floating" nut or two thrown upon the beach. This is the only instance in which I have seen this useful plant gTowing' wdld in an}^ part of Australia^ or the islands strictly belonging- to it. We succeeded in shooting' down a number^ and I know no more grateful beverag"e than the milk of a young* cocoa- nut^ especially under the influence of tropical noon- day heat^ on an island where there was not a drop of fresh water to be found. As usual the meg'apodius was plentiful^ and one of our party killed six in a few hours. I also shot a fine larg*e crested pigeon^ of a species hitherto considered peculiar to the settled parts of New South Wales^ and to which the sing-ularly inappropriate specific name of Aiitarc- ticus is applied ; it thus rang"es 380 miles within the tropics. Jwie 20th. — Fitzroy Island. After anchoring" for 96 FITZROY ISLAND. a short time to form a station^ we finally came to under Fitzroy Island^ half a mile from the shore. This island is ahout fiYe miles in circumference, hio-h and well- wooded^ with two peaks^ one of which is 861 feet in height. The rock^ when exposed^ is granitic. The small hay on the western side of the island^ where the ship lay^ has a steep heach of fragments of dead coral^ through which oozes the water of two streamlets^ at one of which the ship completed her stock with great facilit}'. Following upwards one of the two branches of the principal stream through a narrow gully^ one reaches a small basin-like valley^ filled with dense brushy through which it is difficult to pasS; on account of the unusual quantity of the prickly Calamus palm. Several trees of the pomegranate (Punica Granatum) were met with bearing fruit ; as this plant is found wild in India^ and here occurred in the centre of a thick brush not likely to have been visited by Europeans^ it is probably indigenous. A kind of yam [Dioscoi^ea hulhifera) was found here^ and proved good eating-. In consequence of this^ a party from the ship was sent to dig- for more^ but^ having mistaken the plant^ they expended all their time and trouble in rooting* up a convolvulus^ with small^ inedible^ and probably cathartic tubers. A new species of large fruit-eating bat^ or '' flyings- fox/' (Pteropiis coiispicillatus), making the third Australian member of the g-enus^ was discovered here. On the wooded slope of a hill I one day fell FIND A NEW VAMPYRE BAT. 97 in with this bat in prodig'ious numbers^ presenting* the appearance^ while flying* along- in the brig-ht sunshine^ so unusual in a nocturnal animal, of a larg-e flock of rooks. On close approach a strong- musky odour became apparent^ and a loud incessant chattering- was heard. Many of the branches were bending- under their loads of bats, some in a state of inactivity, suspended by their hind claws, others scrambling- along- among- the boug-hs, and taking- to wing- when disturbed. In a very short time I procured as many specimens as I wished, three or four at a shot, for they hung- in clusters, -but, unless killed outrig-ht, they remained suspended for some time, — when wounded they are to be handled with difficulty, as they bite severely, and on such occasions their cry reminds one of the squalflng- of a child. The flesh of these larg-e bats is reported excellent; it is a favourite food with the natives, and more than once furnished a welcome meal to Leichhardt and his little party, during- their adven- turous journey to Port Essing-ton. One day we were surprised to see a small vessel approachhig- the anchorag-e from the southward. She proved to be a cutter of twenty- five tons, called the Will o' the Wisp, fitted out by a merchant in Sydney, and sent in a somewhat mysterious way (so as to ensure secrecy) to search for sandal, wood upon the north-east coast of Australia. If found in sufficient quantity, a party was to be left to cut it, while the vessel returned to Moreton Bay ^vith VOL. I. H 98 AFFRAY WITH NATIVES. the neAvs^and communicated with the owner^who was to send a larg'er vessel to pick it up and convey it at once to the China market.* An inferior kind of sandal wood^ the produce of Exocarpos latifolia (hut w^hich afterwards turned out to be useless)^ w^as met with in several localities^ — as the Percy Isles, Repulse Bay^ Cape Upstart^ Palm Islands^ &c. At this last place they had much friendly intercourse w ith the natives^ who were liberally treated with pre- sents. It is supposed that the sig-ht of so many valuable articles had excited the cupidity of these savages^ for^ one morning*^ at half-past three o'clock^ a party came off in '^ larg-e canoes with outrig'g-ers/' and boarded the cutter when all hands w^ere below. Their first act was to throw into the cabin and down the fore hatchway some lighted bark^ and w^hen the master and one of the crew rushed on deck in a state of confusion, they w^ere instantly knocked on the head with boomerang's and rendered insensible. At this crisis^ had it not been for the successful courag'e of the mate^ who cleared the deck wdth a sword^ and allowed the remainder of the crew to come up to his assistance^ the natives would probably have obtained possession of the * In 1847 nearly 1000 tons of this wood, procured chiefly from New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, &c. were exported from Syd- ney to China, where it is burnt with other incense in the temples. The sandal-wood trade in these islands gives employment to about six small vessels, belonging to Sydney. In China it reahzes about ^30 per ton. EXAMINE TRINITY BAY. 99 vessel ; as it was the survivors retired in confusion^ which was further increased by the discharg'e among them of a swivel g'un^ mounted on a pivot amidships. At Goold Island^ where the Will o'the Wisp next went in search of water^ they had another affray with the natives^ of \^'hom several were shot^ but whether justifiably^ or from reveng'eful motives^ is known to themselves only. Knowing* that the Rattlesnake was upon the coast they proceeded in search of her to obtain surgical and other assistance, and, meeting two of the surveying* boats, they were directed to Fitzroy Island. Some parts of this account appeared so extraor- dinary, and others so improbable, that Captain Stanley felt it his duty to report it to the Colonial Government, along* with the depositions of the men. Some days afterwards, the master, whose skull had been fractured, being* pronounced to be in as fair away to recovery as was possible under the circumstances the Will o' the Wisp sailed for Moreton Bay, which we afterwards learned she reached in safety. July 2Qth. — A party left before daylig*ht in the pinnace and first g-alley, to examine an opening* in Trinity Bay, marked upon King-'s chart. We found it to present the appearance of a wide creek running' through low mangrove swamps, and Avith the eye could trace its windings for the distance of two or three miles. In all probability this is the embouchure of a considerable fresh water stream, but the shallowness of the head of the bav and the H 2 100 CROCODILES — ISLET UN TRINITY BAY. usual bar off the mouth of the supposed river^ determmed Captain Stanley to return to the ship;, as the time which would otherwise have been spent in exploring' an useless creek might be devoted to some better purpose. June 29th. — Left Fitzroy Island for an anchor- ag-e under Cape Grafton^ where we remained for the three following* days. While running- down to the anchorag'e we entered a larg-e patch of discoloured water^ with a perfectly defined margin^ yet the lead shewed no difference in the depth or nature of the bottom. It would also appear that since Captain King*'s survey the water has been shoaling- here- abouts. On a small island inshore^ the skull of a crocodile was found upon the beach^ and this reminds me that several of these animals were seen in one of the rivers of Rocking^ham Bay. The Australian '' alligator/' as it is usually called^ is a true crocodile^ identical^ according- to Mr. Gray^ with the common Indian species. July Srd. — Kan to the north-west fifteen miles^ and^ after having* anchored midway to form a sur- veying- station^ broug-ht up finally under a small unnamed islet in Trinity Bay. This island^ viewed fi:*om our anchorag-e on its north-west side^ presents the appearance of a ridg-e connecting* two rounded eminences^ with a sharp sea face exposing- the stratification of the rock. This is a micaceous rock^ assuming' at one place the appearance of mica slate, and at another being* a cong-lomerate^ with frequent LOW ISLES. 101 veins of quartz. The strata^ which are often flexuous^ or shg-htly contorted^ have a westerly dip of 60", and the strike is N .N.W. and S.S.E. On the windward side there is a long' g-radual slope, covered wdth tall coarse g'rass, among* which many quail were found. The shore is fring'ed with the usual maritime trees and bushes, and an extensive mang-rove bed runs out upon the reef in one place. This reef is of gTeat extent, stretching- out to w ind- ward upwards of a mile, as far as a small rocky isle like a hay-cock. On July 7th w^e anchored to leew^ard of the Low Isles, in the northern part of Trinity Bay, in eig*ht fathoms, mud, half a mile from the shore, and remained there for the four succeeding- days. This small g-roup ma}^ be said to consist of three islets. One is low, sand}^, and well wooded, about 300 yards in diameter, and is situated at the north- Avest extremit}^ of a horse-shoe reef, with its concavity to leeward ; the other two may be looked upon as merely g-roves of mangToves on the reef, the roots of which are w^ashed at hig-h water, except in a few places, w^here narrow ridg'es of dead coral have afforded footing- for the g-rowth of a samphire- looking- plant {Salicornia Indica). The sandy islet presents no remarkable feature. The remains of burnt turtle bones indicate the occasional visits of natives from the mainland. A solitary meg-apodius was shot, but the only other land-birds are a little yellow Zosterops, and the larg-er g*round-dove {Geopclia kumeralis). 102 ANIMALS OF During" our stay we were fortunate in having* fine weather^ lig*ht winds^ and low tides^ which enabled such as were inchned to look for shells upon the reef to do so under the most favourable cir- cumstances. This reef is of g'reat extent^ with all the varieties of coral^ mud^ and sand^ and proved a most productive one. A sketch of the distribution of the principal of its productions may be of interest to some. Many kinds of fishes^ Murcenay DiodoUy Balistes^ Serranus, &:c. are found in the pools among* the coral blocks j the first of these^ of brig-ht colours variously striped and spotted^ resemble water-snakes^ and are exceeding'ly active^ g'liding* throug-h the interstices in the coral and hiding* in its hollows^ — they bite savagely at a stick presented to them^ and are by no means pleasant neig^hbours while wading* about knee-deep and with bare arms turning* over the coral which they frequent. On a former occasion I had been laid hold of by the thumb^ and the wound was a long* time in heahng-. Crustacea are also numerous 3 blue and g*reen Gonodactyli leap about with a sharp chcking* noise — legions of Ilyctei^is subverrucata traverse the dry sands at low water— and in the shallow mudd}^ pools^ dull green ThcdamitcB and Lupece swim off rapidly^ and smooth Calappce seek refuge by burrowing" under the surface. Of moUusca^ two species of olive [0, erytlirostoma and 0, leiicophoea) were found on the sandy margin of the islet — several Cerlthia and Suhulce (S, macu- liita and S, occidata) creep along the sand flats^ A CORAL REEF. 103 aiid^ with some fine NaticcB^ and a PyramideUa, may be found by tracing* the marks of their long* burrows. Several Stromhi and Nassa coronata inhabit the shallow sandy pools ; the egg'-shell and many Cyprcece occur under coral blocks^ which^ Avhen over sand^ often harbour different kinds of cones — of which the handsome C, Textile is the commonest. A delicate white Lima (L.fragilis) is abundant here^ merrily swimming* away in the pool under an upturned stone^ and leaving* its fringe-like tentacles adhering* to the hand when seized. Lastly^ it would be improper to omit mentioning- the very fine oysters adhering* to the roots of the mang'roves. But these are only a small portion of the shell-fish collected here. Among* radiate ani- mals^ several OpJdurce and Opkiocomce and other AsteriadcBj with two kinds of Echinus^ are also plentiful under blocks of coral [Astrcea and Ilean- drina) in the pools ; one of the last^ remarkable for its very long*^ slender^ black spines^ has the power of giving* an exceedingly painful puncture^ if carelessly handled — for a few minutes the sensation is similar to that caused by the sting* of a wasp ; of the others^ a fine Ophiiira is remarkable for its g*reat size and g*rass-g*reen colour^ and an Opldocoma for the prodigious length of its arms. July 19th. — Six days ago we anchored under the lee of the reef on which the Hope Islands are situated^ but in a position which afforded little shelter. While off Cape Tribulation^ a remarkable 104 HOPE ISLANDS. hill in the back-gTound so strong*ly reminded us of the Peter Botte at Mam*itius^ that it was so named upon our chart^ — it is 3311 feet in heig'ht^ the Cape itself being' 1454 feet. For about six days lately the weather has been very boisterous^ blowing" hard from E.S.E. with a considerable sea. The weather having' at leng-th moderated^ I yesterday and to-day visited the islands composing* the gToup. A deep and clear channel of a mile in width separates these islands^ the larg-er of which is surrounded completely^ and the smaller partially^ by an extensive reef. The former^ or western one^ is merely a long* strip of heaped up coral and shells^ with a little sand and some drift wood run- ning- parallel to the outer edg*e of the reef^ in the direction of the prevailing* wind. It is over-run with low bushes^ and a few other plants^ such as the larg'e purple-flowered Bossicea^ and Ipomoea maritima. A long* bank of dead coral only a few feet above hig'h-water mark, with an intervening* ditch-like holloAV, separates it from the sea to the eastward ; while on the other side, towards the reetl, it is margined with tall mangToves. Small and barren thoug'h this spot be, it is yet inhabited by lizards and a species of rat. Besides the usual waders on the reef, I found g^reat numbers of doves and honeysuckers, and, among* the mang*roves, fell in with and procured specimens of a very rare king'lisher. Halcyon sordidus. Among* the man- groves a rare shell, a species of Quoyiuy occurred. THEEE ISLES. 105 The eastern and northern islet is nearly circular^ half a mile in circumference— formed of coral and shell-sand^ covered with hushes and small trees. The most conspicuous plant is the prickl}^ Guilari' dina Bonduc^ the long* briar-like trailing' and climbing* shoots of which impede one while travers- ing* the thickets. A pair of white-headed sea- eag'les had established their aerie in a tree not more than twenty feet from the g-round^ and I could not resist the temptation of robbing* them of their eg-g-s. July 2^th, — Anchored under the Three Isles_, between Capes Bedford and Flattery. The principal one of the g'roup^ situated to leeward of an extensive reef^ is marg-ined towards the reef by beds of coral — cong*lomerate^ and elsewhere by a sandy beach — it is half a mile in leng*th^ composed of coral sand^ the hig'hest part not more than twelve feet above hig*h-water mark^ with several g*roves of low trees^ and is over-run with tall sedg*e-like g-rass* the second is composed of a strip of heaped-up frag*- nients of coral, to windward covered Avith bushes, and to leeward separated from the reef b}^ a belt of mang*roves; the third is a mere clump of mang*roves not deserving* of further notice. The botany of an island of this class^ of which there are many on the N.E. coast of Australia^ may serve as a specimen^ as the plants are few. Mimusops Kaukii constituted the principal part of the arboreal veg*etation, Clerodcndrum inenne and Premmi obtusifolia form 106 STAY AT LIZARD ISLAND. low strag'g'ling' thickets^ — scattered bushes of Suriana 7nariti7na and Pempliis acida fring^e the sandy margin of the island^ and behind these the beautiful Josephinia grandifloraj a larg^e white - flowered Calyptranthus, Vitex ovata and a Trihulus creep along- the sand^ or spread out their procum- bent branches. Traces of natives^ but not very recent^ were met with in a dried-up well dug* to a g-reat depth^ and several low, dome-shaped huts^ and numerous fire- places^ around which remains of shell-fish and turtle were profusely scattered. Many of the heads of these last animals were here and elsewhere seen stuck upon branches of trees^ sometimes a dozen tog'ether. July 315^—1 landed this morning- with Mr. Obree^ on one of the Two Isles off Cape Flattery, and we were picked up by the ship in passing*. It is well-wooded^ chiefly with the Mimusops Kaukii^ trees of which are here often 60 feet hig*h and 3 in diameter. Under tlie bark I found two new land- shells (to be described in the Appendix), one of them a flattish Helix, in prodig'ious numbers, — and this more than ever satisfied me that even the smallest islands and detached reefs of the north-east coast ma}^ have species peculiar to themselves, nor did I ever return from any one of the 87 upon which I landed without some acquisitions to the collection. We remained a fortnig*ht at Lizard Island, at the LIZARD ISLAND. 107 usual anchorag'e^ off a sandy beach on its north- western side. Lizard Island is conspicuous from a distance^ on account of its peak^* — the central part of a mountainous ridg*e running* across the island^ and dividing' it into two portions^ of which the eastern is hilly and the western loW; and intersected bv small ridofes of slio'ht elevation. The island is about 2^ miles in greatest diameter ; the rock is a coarse g'rey granite^ easily decomposible. A larg^e grassy plain extends westward from the central ridg*e^ — a portion of this^ half a mile from the beach^ densely covered with coarse g-rass and reeds and scattered over with Pandanus trees^ is usually a marsh. At present it is dry^ with a few pools of fresh water^ connected below Avith a mang-rove swamp opening* upon the beach by a narrow creek. Formerl}^ boats could ascend this a little way^ but now the entrance dries across at low water^ — nor could the fresh water conveniently be conducted to the beach bv the hose and eup-ine, as I had seen t> 0 7 done in the Fly in the month of May. Fortunately^ however^ we found a small stream in a valley on the northern corner of the island^ which supplied our wants. Althoug-h the dry barren nature of the soil — * Capt. Stanley's azimuth and altitude observations, taken at two stations at the base, the distance between having been measured by the micrometer, give its height as 1 1 G 1 feet ; and Lieut. Dayman's barometrical measurement makes it 1151 feet, above the sea level. 108 EAGLE ISLAND. varying- from coarse quartzose sand (from the disin- tegTated g-ranite) to reddish clay — is not favourable to the g-rowth of luxuriant veg'etation^ still several interesting' plants were added to the herbarium. Of these the finest is a new Cochlospermurriy a low spreading* tree^ nearly leafless at this time^ but covered Avith clusters of very larg^e and showy g'olden blossoms. A heath-like shrub^ i^ChamcBlaucium) common here^ was remarkable for existing* on the open plains as a weak prostrate plant^ w^hile in the scrub it formed a handsome bush 10 feet hig-h, with a stem 6 inches in diameter. Of quail^ which in 1844 were very abundant^ I saw^ not more than one or two^ — probably the burn- ing* of the g'rass during* the breeding* season had eftected this partial clearance. Snakes appear to be numerous. — two out of three which I examined were poisonous — the other Avas the diamond snake of New South Wales. A very fine land shelly Helix hijuirtitcij was found in colonies at the roots of the trees and bushes. A larofe and handsome cowrie^ Cyprcea 3Iauritianaj g*enerally distributed among" the islands of the Pacific^ was here found for the first time in Australia. Aug. 1st, — I crossed over to Eagle Island wdth Mr. BroAvn^ and spent a day and nig'ht there. This place was so named by Cook^ who states in explana- tion of the name^~"AVe found here the nest of some other bird^ we knew not what^ of a most enormous size. It was built with sticks upon the EAGLE ISLAND. 109 ground^ and was no less than 26 feet in circum- ference^ and two feet eight inches hig-h."* An American professorf conjectures the above nest to have possibly been that of the Dinornis^ the g'ig'an- tic New Zealand bird^ known only by its fossil remains. A very slig-ht knowledg-e^ however^ of ornitholog-y, would be sufficient to confute the notion of any struthious bird constructing* a nest of this kind^ or of a wing-less land bird of g'reat size inhabiting" an islet only a quarter of a mile in leng'th. Both Mr. Gould and myself have seen nests of the same construction^ the work of the larg'e fishing--eag'le of Australia. This island is low and sandy ^ with a few casuari- nas^ or " she-oaks/^ a fring-e of Suriana maritima^ some Tournefortice^ and thickets of Clerodendrum inerine. Land rail and other birds were numerous. The reef, which is very extensive_, did not dry throug'hout at low water^ but some sand banks along' its lee margin were exposed^ and upon them I found the greatest assemblage of "pretty'' shells that I ever met with at one place. What would not many an amateur collector have given to spend an hour here ? There were fine Terehrce in abundance^ orange-spotted mitres^ minutely-dotted cones^ red- mouthed Strombiy glossy olives^ and magnificent NaticcBy all ploughing up the wet sand in every * Hawkesworth's Voyages, vol. ii. p. 599. f In Silliman's Journal for July, 1844. 110 FIND A HUMAN SKULL. direction^— yet^ with two exceptions^ they are to be seen in every collection in Europe. As usual we found plentiful remains of recent turtle feasts. One of the boat's crew^ not over- stocked with brains, during' his rambles picked up a human skull with portions of the flesh adhering*. Accidentall}^ learning* this from the conversation of the men at our bivouac during* supper, inquiry was made, when we found that he had foolishly thrown it into the sea, nor could it be found during* a subsequent search. I was anxious to determine whether it was aborig'inal or not. On the one hand, the natives of all parts of Australia usually evince the strongest desire to bury or conceal their own dead ; on the other, there might have been some connexion between the skull and the remains of a hut of European construction, portions of clothing*, a pair of shoes, some tobacco, and fragments of a whale boat seen here. — But all is mere conjecture. Aiigust IMli. — After leaving Lizard Island, we passed to the southward of No. III. of the Howick Isles, and anchored off the N.W. extremity of No. I. in 6|- fathoms, mud. This is the largest of a group of about ten islands, which agree in being low, and covered for the most part with mangroves. No. I., however, is distinguished by having three bare hillocks at its south-eastern end, the central one of which forms a rather conspicuous peak. A party of natives was there seen watching* our move- ments, but no commimication with them was at- HOWICK ISLES. Ill tempted. Opposite the ship we landed on a small sandy^ bushy portion of the island^ shg'htly elevated, fronted by the reef, and backed by mang-roves. We found here the usual indications of occasional visits of the natives in a pit dug* as a well^ and numerous remains of turtle and fish about the fire- places. A few quails^ doves^ and other common birds were met with. On Aug-ust 18th we removed to an anchorao-e under No. VI., the second larg-est of the gToup. With the exception of a sandy, grassy plain, half a mile in leng'th, the whole of the island is densely covered with mang-roves, and fring-ed with a reef of coral, chiefly dead. Great numbers of larg-e turtle- shells were scattered about, shewing* the periodical abundance of these animals. Another larg'e " vam- pyre-bat,^' Pteropus funereus^ differing* from that of Fitzroy Island, was met with in g*reat numbers among* the mang*roves, — a very larg'e assemblag-e of these animals on the wing*, seen from the ship while approaching* the island, quite resembled a flock of rooks. Here, as elsewhere on the mang-rove-clad islands, a larg*e honeysucker {Ptilotis chrysotis) filled the air with its loud and almost incessant, but varied and pleasing* notes, — I mention it, because it is the onl}^ bird we ever met with on the north- east coast of Australia which produced anything* like a song*. Aiig. 21st, — We ran to the N.E. about twenty- eig'ht miles, and anchored off Cape Melville, a 112 CAPE MELVILLE. remarkable gTanitic promontory 5 here the Great Barrier Reef closely approaches the coast^ being" distant only ten miles, and visible from the ship. A few miles to the south some pine-trees were seen on the ridg*es, as had previously been noticed by Cun- ning*ham, during' King''s Yoyage. They appeared to be the same kind as that formerly alluded to at the Percv Isles, in which case this useful tree has a range on the north-east coast of oOO miles of latitude, beino; found as far south as Port Bowen. Next day we shifted our berth to a more secure anchorag'e under the neighbouring* Pipon Islets, where the Bramble joined us in the evening*. The schooner had been sent on in advance of the ship to the northward nearly a month before, in order to be at the head of Princess Charlotte's Bay durino;- the first Aveek in Aug'ust, according to an arrang*e- ment made by Captain Stanley with Mr. Kennedy, but no signs of the overland expedition were met with during' ten days spent at the rendezvous.* While at this anchorage, the Bramble, being in want of water, filled up at a small stream, inside of Cape Melville, assisted by some of our boats and people. The party so employed was one day attacked by a number of natives, but, the usual precaution of having sentries posted and a guard * We afterwards learned that it was not until the middle of October (or two months afterwards) that Kennedy's party reached the latitude of Princess Charlotte Bay, at a considerable distance too, from the coast PELICAN ISLAND. 113 of marines close at hand prevented the loss of life on our part. Aug. 2Sfh, — After a run of 45 miles^ we reached Pelican Island^ the survey of the space thus rapidly g-one over being- left to Lieutenant Yule and the Bramble. The island is rather more than a quarter of a mile in lengthy with a large reef to wind- ward 5 it is low and sandy^ covered with coarse g'rass^ and a bushy yellow-flowered Sida. Great numbers of birds frequent this place ; of these the pelicans {Pelecanus conspicillatus) are the most remarkable^ but^ incubation having* ceased^ they were so wary that it was not without some trouble that two were killed out of probably a hundred or more. A pair of sea-eag-les had their nest here^ placed on a low bush^ an anomaly in the habits of the bird to be accounted for by the disappearance of the ^^two clumps of trees/' mentioned by King' as formerly existing* on the island^ and the unwillino-- ness of the birds to abandon the place. The shell collectors picked up nothing of consequence^ but the sportsmen met with great success. On the 29th^ about twenty brace of quail and as many land-rail were shot, in addition to manv oyster-catchers, plovers^ godwits^ and sand-pipers. Shooting* for the pot is engaged in with a degree of eag-erness commensurate with its importance^ now that our live stock has been exhausted^ and we have little besides ship's provisions to live upon. Three turtle^ averag*- ing 250 pounds weighty were caught by a party sent VOL. I. I 114 CLAEEMONT GROUP. for the purpose of searching- for them^ and it was sup- posed that one or two others which had come up to lay escaped detection from the darkness of the nig*ht. On Aug-ust 31st^ we removed to an anchorag-e under No. Y. of the Clare mont gToup^ and remained there during' the following- day. The island is about two-thirds of a mile in circumference, low and sandy^ with a larg-e reef extending- to wind- ward. The island is thinly covered with coarse g-rass and strag'g-ling- hushes^ with one larg-e thicket containing- a few trees^ of which the tallest is a solitary Mimusops. We found qunil here in g-reat plenty^ and they afforded g'ood sport to a " First of September" shooting- party^ provided with a setter. At leng-th the poor quail had their quarters so thoroug-hly beaten up^ that several^ in attempting- to escape from the island^ were observed to fall into the water from sheer exhaustion. Nor did the birds receive all the benefit of the shot^ for Captain Stanley^ while observing- with the theodolite^ became unwitting-ly a targ-et for a juvenile shooter ; but^ fortunately^ no damag-e was done. Some turtle were seen at nig-ht^ but they were too war}^ to be taken. I found several nests with egg-s^ by probing- in all the likely places near their tracks with my ramrod ] in passing- throug-h an eg-g-^ the end of the rod becomes smeared Avith the contents^ and comes up Avith a little sand adhering- to it^ directing* one where to dio-. No. YI. of the Claremont g-roup was next visited. NIGHT ISLAND. 115 This^ which is only a quarter of a mile in leng'th^ is situated on the lee side of an extensive reef. It is quite low^ being- composed of heaped~up frag-ments of shells and coral^ overrun with a suffruticose Sida, and stunted bushes of Clerodendruin and Pi^evmciy wdth a g'lossy-leaved euphorbiaceous plnnt occasion- ally formings small thickets. Sea fowl and waders were very numerous^ but the breeding* season w^as over. Land -rail existed in such o'reat numbers that upwards of fifty were shot. I cannot see the propriety of considering' the sand bank^ marked No. VII., as a member of the Claremont gToup • as, at hig'h water, it is a mere strip of sand 200 yards in length, mth a few plants of Salsola on the highest part. On September 8th, we anchored to the westward of the north end of Nig-ht Island, a mile off shore, and remained there for the two succeeding' days. This island is tw^o miles in leng-th, and half a mile in breadth, surrounded by a narrow reef of dead coral and mud. With the exception of a very narroAV portion fronted by a sandy beach, the place is densely covered with mangroves. A sandy por- tion, of about five acres in extent, is thickly covered with bushes and small trees, of which the most conspicuous is a Bombax or cotton-tree, 20 to 30 feet in height, with leafless horizontal branches bearing both Howers and fruit. Numbers of the Torres Strait Pigeon [Carpopliaga luctuosa) crossed over from the main land towards evening to roost ] I 2 116 SHERRARD ISLES. and at that time^ and early in the morning*^ great havoc was usually made amonp- them. Even this small spot produced a fine white, hrown-banded JJeliXj not found elsewhere,— it occurred on the branches of the cotton trees. Three days afterwards we ran to the northward ten miles, and anchored under the Sherrard Isles, where our stay was protracted until the ICth bv blowing' weather. These islets are two in number, a quarter of a mile apart, surrounded and connected by a reef. One is 120 yards in leng-th, sandy, and thinly covered with coarse grass and maritime plants, with a few bushes; the other is only 30 yards across, and is covered b}^ a clump of small trees of Pemphis acida and Suriana inaritimay appearing' at a distance like mangroves. A small low wooded islet off Cape Direction, where I landed for a few hours, was found to be composed entirely of dead coral with thickets of mangrove and other bushes, and presented no fea- ture worthy of further notice. We were detained at an anchorage near Cape Weymouth for seven da3^s by the haziness of the weather, which obscured distant points essential to the connexion of the sur- vey. After having anchored once for the night under the lee of reef " e'^ of King's chart — one of the most extensive we had hitherto seen, being four- teen miles in length, — on September 26th, the ship anchored under the largest of the Piper Islets. This group consists of four low bushy and wooded PIPER ISLES. 117 islets^ situated on two reefs separated by a deep channel. The laro-er of the two on the south-eastern reef^ off which the ship hiy^ is about half a mile in circumference. The trees are chiefly a kind of Enjtlirina^ conspicuous from its lig'ht coloured trunk and leafless branches; one of the most abundant plants is a Cajyparis, with long' drooping* branches, occasionally assisted by a Cissus and a 3Ielotria^ in forming' small shady harbours. In the evening*^ vast numbers of white pig'eons came over from the mainland to roost^ and of course^ all the fowling*- pieces were put in requisition. Some deep pits dug' in the centre of the island were perfectly dr}^^ and are probably so during* the latter half of the dry season^ or after the month of July. On this island we observed the remains of a small establish- ment for curing* trepang* — a larg-e sea slug* found on the reefs and in shoal water^ constituting* a valuable article of commerce in the China market, where in a dried state it fetches, according* to quality, from £5 to £200 a ton. This establishment had been put up by the crew of a small vessel from Sydney, and several such have at various times made vo3"ag*es along* this coast and in Torres Strait, collecting* trepang' and tortoiseshell, the latter procured from the natives by barter. Sept. 2Sth, — On our way to the northward to- day, we passed Young' Island, of King', which had been previously examined in one of our boats, and found to be merely a reef covered at hig*h water. 118 YOUNG ISLAND— BIRD ISLES. Twenty-nine years before it was an embryo islet with two small trees upon it. And as the subject of the rate of increase of a coral reef^ and of the for- mation of an island upon it, is a subject of interest and of great practical importance^ I give below in a note* two records of the former appearance of Young' Island. Sept, 29tJi. — Passing- inside of Hag-g^erstone Island^ we rounded Sir Everard Home's group and anchored under Sunday Island^ where the Bramble joined us after a month's absence. This is a small_, hig'h^ rocky island^ of flesh-coloured compact felspar. On one side is a large patch of brush with some mangroves and a coral reef. A few da3's afterwards we ran down to the Bird Isles^ and anchored. They are three low^ Avooded islets^ one detached from the other two^ which are situated on the margin of a circular reef. On the north-west island we saw a small party of natives from the mainland_, consisting of two men and a # * * f< Passed at about three-quarters of a mile to the north- ward of a small rocky shoal, on which were two small trees. This particular is recorded as it may be interesting at some future time, to watch the progress of this islet, which is now in an infant state ; it was named on the occasion Young Island." — Narra- tive of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia, performed between the years 1818 and 1822, by Captain P. P. King, R.N., vol. i. p. 226. Its appearance in 1839 is described as '* an elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part." — Stokes' Voyage of the Beagle, vol. i, p. 57. MEET NATIVES IN DISTREbS. 119 boy^ in g*reat distress from want of water^ until Lieut. Yule kindly supplied tlieir wants. They had been Avind-bound here for several days^ the weather for some time previously having- been too boisterous to admit of attempting* to reach the shore^ althoug-h only a few miles distant^ in their split and patched- up canoe. This was of small size^ the hollowed out trunk of a tree^ with a double outrig'g'er^ and alto- gether a poor imitation of that used by the islanders of Torres Strait ; the paddles were of rude work- manships shaped like a long--handled cricket-bat. Their spears and throwing- sticks were of the same kind as those in use at Cape York^ to be afterwards described. These people were wretched specimens of their race^ lean and lanky^ and one was suffering* from ophthalmia^ looking* quite a miserable object ; they had come here in searchof turtle,— as I under- stood. Each of the men had lost a front toothy and one had the oval cicatrix on the rig*ht shoulder^ cha- racteristic of the northern natives^ an imitation of that of the islanders. They shewed little curiosity^ and trembled with fear^ as if suspicious of our intentions. I made a fruitless attempt to pick up some scraps of their lang*uag*e 3 they understood the word powd or ^'^ peace" of Torres Strait. On this island the principal trees are the leafless Erythrina^ with waxy^ pink flowers. Great num- bers of pig*eons resorted here to roost. I found here a larg*e colony of that rare and beautiful tern, 120 CAIENCEOSS ISLAND. Sterna melnnauchen^ and mixed up with them a few individuals of the still rarer Sterna gracilis. We anchored under Cairncross Island^ on the afternoon of Sept. 3rd^ and remained during* the following* day. The island is about a quarter of a mile in leng-th^ low and sandy^ covered in the centre with tall trees^ and on the outskirts with smaller ones and bushes. These larg*e trees {Pisonia graridis) form very conspicuous objects from their gTeat dimensions^ their smooth^ lig*ht bark^ and leaf- less^ dead appearance. Some are from eighty to one hundred feet in heig'ht^ with a circumference at the base of twenty feet. The Avood^ however^ is too soft to be useful as timber. JSTowhere had we seen the Torres Strait pig*eon in such prodigious numbers as lierC; crossing* over in small flocks to roost^ and returning* in the morning* ; 3^et manj^ remained all day feeding* on the red^ plum-like fruit of 3Iimusops Kaukii. In the first evening not less than one hundred and fifty-nine pigeons were brought off after an hour's work by seven shooters^ and next day a still greater number were procured. Being large and well flavoured birds^ they formed no inconsiderable addition to our bill of fare^ and appeared on the table at every meal^ subjected to every possible variety of cooking. Some megapodii also were shot^ and many eggs of a fine tern^ Onychoprion Panaya, were picked up. CHAPTER IV. WATEE THE SHIP — TESSEL -WITH SUPPLIES AEEIYES — NATIYES AT CAPE TOEK — DESCEIPTION OF THE COUNTEY AN^D ITS PEODrCTIOXS — POET ALBAIS'Y CO]S'SIDEEED AS A DEPOT EOE STEAMEES — SAIL EEOM CAPE TOEK AND AEEIYE AT POET ESSINGTO:tf — COIfDITIOX OE THE PLACE — HISTOET OF THE SETTLEMENT— WOULD BE USELESS AS A COLONY — ABOEI- GINES — LEAVE POET ESSINGTOX — AEEIYE AT SYDNEY. At lengthy on October 7th^ we reached Cape York^ and anchored in the northern entrance to Port Albany. At dayh^ht next morning* two parties were sent in various directions in search of water. I found no traces of natives in Evans' Bay^ but at another phice, while dig'g-ing in the bed of a watercourse, we were joined by a small party of them^ one of whom turned out to be an old ac- quaintance. They seemed to be quite at home in our company^ asking* for pipes^ tobacco^ and biscuit^ with which I was fortunately able to supply them. Indeed^ a day or two before^ some of them had communicated with the Asp in a most confident and friendly manner. Had water been found near the best anchorag'e in Port Albany _, it was Captain Stanle3's intention to have taken the ship there^ but, as it appeared from the various reports^ that Evans' Bay was preferable at this time for 122 COMPLETION OF THE SURVEY. watering*^ both as affording- the larg*est supply^ and the greatest facihties for obtaining- it. the ship Avas according-ly removed to an anchorag-e off the south part of the bay^ and moored^ being* in the streno-th of the tide runninof round Hobumo Island. Shortly after our arrival at Cape York^ the two sets of old wells^ dug- by the Fl}"^ were cleared out^ and we completed water to seventy-five tons. These wells are situated immediately behind the sandy beach, — they are merely pits into which the fresh water^ with which the g-round had become saturated during' the rainy season^ oozes through the sand^ havino' undero-one a kind of filtration. At times a little surf gets up on the shore^ but never, during our stay of three weeks^ was it sufficient to inter- rupt the watering. AVhile the ship remained at Cape Yoi^k^ the Bramble^ -^^""p? piiiiiace^ and our second cutter^ were engaged^ under their respective officers^ in the survey of Endeavour Strait and the Prince of Wales Channel^ which they finished before we left^ thus completing the survey of the Inner Houte between Dunk and Booby Islands. Previous to leaving- for that purpose^ the pinnace had been sent to Booby Island^ for letters in the ^^post office'^ there^ and some of us had the good fortune to receive commu- nications from our friends in Sydney, which had been left by vessels passing- through. Most passing- vessels heave-to off the island for an hour^ the dang-ers of Torres Strait having* been passed^ and Kennedy's expedition. 123 record their names^ &e. in the log^ book kept there^ and by it we found^ that with one exception^ all this season had taken the Outer Passag'e^ and most of them had entered at Raine's Islet^ g'uided by the beacon erected there in 1844^ by Captain F. P. Blackwood^ of H. M.S. Fly^ thus demonstrating* the superior merits of this pass*ag*e over the other open- ing's in the Barrier Beef^ and the accuracy of the Fly's survey. On October 21st, the long' and anxiousty looked for vessel from Sydney arrived^ bringing' our sup- plies^ and the letters and news of the last five months. We had for a short time been completely out of bread^ peas^ and lime juice^ and two cases of scurvy had appeared among' the crcAV. It had been arranged that Mr. Kennedy with his expedition should^ if possible_, be at Cape York in the beginning* of October to communicate with us^ and receive such supplies and assistance as mig'ht be required ; but the month passed away without bringing' any sig'ns of his being' in the neighbour- hood. During our progress along the coast a good look out had been kept for his preconcerted signal — three fires in a line^ the central one largest — and bush-fires which on two occasions at nio-ht assumed somewhat of that appearance had been answered^ as agreed on^ by rockets sent up at 8 p.m._, none of which however were returned. A schooner from Sydney arrived on the 27th with two additions to his party, including a surgeon^ also supplies, 124 NATIVES AT CAPE YORK. consisting" chiefly of sheep^ with instructions from the Colonial Government to await at Port Albany the arrival of the expedition. The live stock were landed by our boats on Alban}^ Island^ where a sheep pen was constructed^ and a well dug'^ — but the water was too brackish for use. A sufiicient supply however had previously been found in a small cave not far off, where the schooner's boat could easily reach it. I shall now proceed to give an account of the neig'hbourhood of Cape York^ derived from the present and previous visits^ as a place which must eventually become of considerable importance — and first of the aborigines : — On the day of our arrival at Cape York^ a larg-e party of natives crossed over in five canoes under sail from Mount Adolphus Island^ and subsequently their numbers increased until at one time no less than 150 men^ women^ and children^ were assembled at Evans' Bay. But their stay was shorty probably on account of the difficulty of procuring- food for so larg*e an assemblag'e^ and the g'reater part dispersed along" the coast to the southward. While collecting- materials for a vocabular}^^*' I found that several * In illustration of the difficulty of framing so apparently simple a document as a vocabulary, and particularly to shew how one must not fall into the too common mistake of putting down as certain every word he gets from a savage, however clearly he may suppose he is understood, I may mention that on going over the different parts of the human body, to get their names by pointing to them, I got at different times and from different NATIVES AT CAPE YORK. 125 dialects were spoken^ but I failed then to connect them Avith particular tribes or even find out Avhich^ if any^ were the resident ones. Among* these were two or three of the Papuan race^ from some of the islands of Torres Strait. It appeared to me that a constant friendly intercourse exists between the natives of the southern portion of Torres Strait and those of the main land about Cape York^ which last^ from its central position^ is much frequented during* their occasional^ perhaps periodical mig*rations. This free communication between the races would account for the existence in the vocabular}' I then procured at Cape York of a considerable number of words (at least 31 out of 248) identical with those g*iven by Jukes in his vocabularies of Darnley Island and Masseed^ especially the latter. The physical characteristics of these Australians seen at Cape York differ in no respect fi*om those of the same race which I have seen elsewhere. The absence of one or more of the upper incisors was not observed here^ nor had circumcision or any similar rite been practised^ as is the case in some parts of the continent. Among* these undoubted Australians were^ as already mentioned^ two or three Papuans. They differed in appearance from the others in having* the skin of a much lig-hter colour — yellowish brown instead of nearly black— the hair on individuals — for the shin-hone, woras which in the course of time I found to mean respectively, the leg— the shin-bone — the skin — and hone in general. 126 NATIVES AT CAPE YORK. the body woolly and gTOwing* in scattered tufts^ and that of the head also woolly and twisted into long- strands like those of a mop. On the rig'ht shoulder^ and occasionally the left also^ they had a larg'e complicated^ oval scar^ onl}^ slig'htly prominent^ and very neatly made. The cnstom of smoking* so general throuo-liout Torres Strait^ has been introduced at Cape York. Those most addicted to it were the Papuans above mentioned^ but many of the Australians joined them^ and were equally clamourous for tobacco. Still it was singular to notice that althoug-h clwJia (tobacco) was in g-reat demand^ biscuit^ Avhich they had corrupted to hlsltikar^ was much more prized. Their mode of smokino* having* elsewhere''^ been described^ I need not allude to it further than that the pipe^ which is a piece of bamboo as thick as the arm and two or three feet Ions*, is first filled with tobacco-smoke^ and then handed round the company seated on the PTound in a ring* — each takes a long* inhalation^ and passes the pipe to his neighbour^ slowly allowing* the smoke to exhale. On several occasions at Cape York^ I have seen a native so affected by a single inhalation^ as to be rendered nearly senseless^ with the perspiration bursting out at every pore^ and require a draught of water to restore him ) and^ although myself a smoker^ yet on the onl3" occasion when I tried this mode of using * Jukes' Voyage of the Fly, Vol. i. p. 1G5. THE COUNTRY. 127 tobacco^ the sensations of nausea and faintness were produced. These people appeared to repose the most perfect confidence in us— they repeatedly visited the ship in their own canoes or the watering- boats^ and were always well treated ; nor did any circumstance occur during' our intimacy to give either party cause of complaint. We saw few Aveapons among* them. The islanders had their bows and arrows^ and the others their spears and throwing--sticks. As the weather was fine^ at least as reg-arded the absence of rain^ no huts of any kind were construc- ted; at nig-ht the natives slept round their fires without any covering*. During* our stay the food of the natives consisted chiefly of two kinds of fruit, the first (a Wallrothia) like a larg*e yellow plum^ mealy and insipid ; the second^ the produce of a kind of mang*rove {Candelia) the vegetating* sprouts of which are prepared for food by a process between baking* and steaming*. At low water the women usually dispersed in search of shell-fish on the mud-flats and among* the mangroves^ and the men occasionally went out to fish^ either with the spear^ or the hook and line. The country in the immediate vicinity of Evans' and Cape York Bays consists of low wooded hills alternating* with small valleys and plains of greater extent. The coast line^ Avhen not consisting* of rocky headlands, is either a sandy beach^ or is fiung*ed with mangroves. Behind this^ where the 128 ITS PRODUCTIONS. countr}^ is flat^ there is usually a narrow belt of dense brush or jung-le. In the valle3^s^ one finds what in the colony of New South Wales would be termed open forest land^ characterized by scattered eucalypti and other trees^ and a scanty covering* of coarse sedg-e-like grass growing* in tufts on a red clayey soil^ covered with nodules of ironstone and coarse quartzose sand. As characteristics of this poor soil^ the first objects to attract the attention are the enormous pinnacled ant-hills of red clay and sand^ often with supporting* buttresses. These sing-ular structures^ which are sometimes twelve feet in, height^ are of g"reat strength and toughness — on breaking* off a piece^ they appear to be honeycombed inside^ the numerous galleries being then displayed. The ants themselves are of a pale brown colour^ a quarter of an inch in length. In sailing along* the coast^ these ant-hills may be dis- tinctly seen from the distance of two or three miles. The rock in the immediate neighbourhood of Cape York is a porphyry with soft felspathic base^ containing* numerous moderately sized crystals of amber-coloured quartz^ and a few larg*er ones of flesh-coloured felspar. It often appears in larg*e tabular masses split horizontally and vertically into blocks of all sizes. At times when the vertical fissures predominate and run chiefly in one direction^ the porphyry assumes a slat}^ character^ and large thin masses may be detached. One of the most interesting features in the botany THE COUNTRY. 129 of Cape York^ is the occurrence of a palm^ not hitherto mentioned as Australian. It is the Caryota urens (found also in India and the Indian archi- pelago)^ one of the noblest of the famil}^^ combining* the foliage of the tree-fern with a trunk a foot in diameter^ and sixty in heig-ht. It is found in the dense brushes along* with three other palms^ Seaforthiay Corypka, and Calamus, Another very striking* tree^ not found elscAvhere by us^ is the fine Wormia alata^ abundant on the margin of the brushes^ where it is very conspicuous from its large 3^ellow blossoms^ handsome dark-green foliage^ and ragg'ed^ papery bark of a red colour. One day I explored some caves in the sandstone cliiFs at Port Albany in quest of bats^ and was fortunate enough to get quite a new Illiinolophus or horse-shoe bat. In one of the caves^ which only admitted of entry on the hands and knees^ these bats were so numerous_, and in such large clusters^ that I secured no less than eleven at one time^ by using both hands. Small kangaroos appeared to be plentiful enough^ but we were not so fortunate as to shoot one. The natives one day brought down to us a live opossum^ quite tame^ and very gentle ; this turned out to be new_, and has since been described by Mr. Gould under the name of Pseudocheirus nudicaudatus. In the brushes the sportsman may find the mega- podius^ brush-turkey^ and white pigeon^ and in the forest Hocks of white cockatoos^ and various parrots VOL. I. K 130 THE COUNTEY. and parrakeets^ besides thrushes^ orioles^ leather- heads^ &C.J but I shall not now enter upon the ornithology of the district. A very larg"e lizard {Monitor Gouldii) is common at Cape York^ — it climbs trees with g-reat agility^ and is very swift^ scampering^ over the dead leaves in the scrubs^ with nearly as much noise as a kang-aroo. Snakes^ althoug'h apparentl}-^ not very plentiful^ yet require to be carefully looked for in order to be avoided ; one day I killed single individuals of two kinds^ — one a slender^ very active g'reen whip-snake^ four feet in leng'th^ — the other^ the brown snake of New South Wales^ where its bite is considered fatal. Fish are plentiful at Cape York ; they may be caug^ht with the hook and line from the rocks^ or at a little distance off, and the sandy beach of Evans' Bay is well- adapted for hauling* the seine upon, A curious fresh- water fish (iir/;.s setipinnis) is found in the lag'oon here^ and even in the wells dug* by the Fly^ there were some full g-rown individuals , it much resembles the herring*^ in shape^ colour^ and size. The shells may be very briefly dismissed. The principal landshell is a very large variety of Helix hipartita, here attaining* its g-reatest size. The most striking- shell of the sand-flats is a handsome olive {0, ispidula)^ remarkable for its extraordinary varia- tions in colour^ size, and even form. In viewing* Cape York as the probable site of a future settlement or military post^ an important feature to be noticed is the comparative abundance ABUNDANCE OF FRESH WATER. 131 of fresh water at the very close of the dry season. In Evans' Bay it may always be procured by dig'- g'mg- belimd the beach^ especially at the foot of some low w^ooded hillocks^ towards its western end. Native wells were met with in most of the smaller bays^ and the size of the dried up watercourses indicates that during* the wet season^ a considerable body is carried off by them from the flats and tem- porary lag'oons. Were one inclined^ from interested motives^ to extol the natural capabilities of the immediate neig-hbourhood of Cape York^ it would be very easy to speculate upon^ and at once presume its peculiar fitness for the g-rowth of tropical produce. Thus^ any swampy land mig'ht at once be pronounced pecuHarly adapted for paddy fields^ and the re- mainder as admirably suited to the g'rowth of cotton^ coffee^ indig-o^ &c. With the exception of a piece of rich soil^ several acres in extent^ on the eastern marg"in of a watercourse^ leading* from the small lag'oon behind Evans' Bay^ and which would be a g'ood site for a larg*e g*arden^ I did not see much g-round that was fit for cultivation. Very fine rich patches occur here and there in the brushes removed from the coast^ but in the belts of brush along* the beaches the soil^ despite the accumulation of veg-etable matter^ is essentially poor and sandy. It may be added that the value of the g-arden land above alluded to^ is much enhanced by its proximity to a constant supply of water^ to be procured by K 2 132 PORT ALBANY AS dia'S'ino' in the bed of the hio-oon. Nearly all the g-rass is of a coarse sedg'e-like description^ mixed^ however^ in places ^vith grasses of a finer kind. Towards the end of the dry season^ the grass^ when not burnt off by the natives^ presents a most unin- viting*^ withered appearance, being* so dry as almost to crumble into dust if rubbed between the palms of the hand. As one of the more immediate beneficial results of our survey of the Inner Passage^ would be to facilitate its use by steamers, should arrangements at present contemplated for the continuance of the ^^ overland" communication between Great Britain and India, from Singapore to the Australian colonies, by way of Torres Strait, ever be carried into effect^ so it was of importance to find some place in the neighbourhood of Cape York, con- venient as a coalino* station durino- either monsoon. An eligible spot for this purpose was found in Port Albany, the name given by Lieut. Yule, who surveyed it in 1846, to the narrow channel separating- Albany Island from the main land. Here a small sandy bay with a sufficient depth of water close inshore^ was^ after a minute examination by Captain Stanley, considered to be well adapted to the running* out of a jetty, alongside of which the largest steamer could lie in perfect safety. This little ba}^ has anchorage close inshore for three or four vessels only, as a little further out they v» ould be in the stream of tide which runs with great strength, especially in A DEPOT FOR STEAMERS. 133 the neig-hbourhood of the various points ; however^ it is completely sheltered from any wind which may be experienced on this part of the coast. On several occasions I landed on Albany Island^ and walked over the place. It is three miles in lengthy and one in greatest breadth^ its outline irre- gular from the immber of bays and small rocky headlands. On its western side the bays are small^ and the shores generally steep and rocky^ with sandy intervals^ the banks being covered with brush of the usual Australian intertropical cha- racter. The rock here is either a stratum of iron- stone in irreo'ular masses and nodules cemented together by a ferruginous base^ or a very coarse sandstone^ almost a quartzose conglomerate^ forming cliffs^ occasionally thirty feet or more in height. The latter stone is suitable for rough building pur- poses^ such as the construction of a pier^ but is much acted on by the weather. On the northern and eastern sides the bays are large and generally sandy^ with the land sloping down towards them from the low undulating hills^ which compose the rest of the island. These hills are either sandy or covered with ironstone gravel* over red clay. They * A sample of this ironstone picked up from the surface has furnished materials for the following remarks, for which I am indebted to the politeness of Warrington W. Smyth, Esq., of the Museum of Practical Geology. " On examining the specimens which you presented to our Museum, I see that thev consist for the most part of the red or 134 SAIL FROM CAPE YOEK. are thinly covered with a sprinkling- of Gi^eviUeay Boroniaj and Leucoiwgon bushes^ with occasional tufts of the coarsest gTass. There must always be^ however^ sufficient pasturag-e for such cattle and sheep as a small party in charg-e of a coaling* depot would require. There is also sufficient water in the island for their support^ and b}" dig'g'ing* wells^ no doubt the quantity would be gTeatly increased. In addition there are several small spots where the soil is suitable for g-ardening' purposes^ thus ensuring- a supply of veg"etables during* the g-reater part^ per- haps the whole of the year. On November 2nd we sailed from Cape York on our way to Port Essington and Sydney^ but owing* to the prevalence of lig'ht airs^ chiefly from the eastward^ and calms^ we did not reach Booby Island until the 4th^ having* passed out of Torres anhydrous peroxide of iron, — similar in cliemical character to the celebrated hoematite ore of Ulverstone and Whitehaven. It is, however, less rich in iron than would be inferred from its out- ward appearance, since the pebbles on being broken, exhibit interiorly a loose and cellular structure, where grains of quartz and plates of mica are interspersed with the ore, and of course reduce its specific gravity and value. **' Such an ore, if occurring in great quantity, and at no great distance from abundant fuel and from a supply of limestone for flux, may prove to be very valuable ; but I should fear that your suggestion of employing the coral and shells of the coast, for the last mentioned purpose, might impair the quality of an iron thus produced, for the phosphoric acid present in them would give one of the constituents most troublesome to the iron-master, who wishes to produce a strong and tough iron." ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON. 135 Strait by the Prince of Wales Channel. The Bramble was left to perform some work in Endea- vour Strait* and elsewhere along* the Inner Passag'e, and after its completion to make the best of her way to Sydney down the eastern coast of Australia ag'ainst the trade-wind^ before successfully accom- plished by only two other vessels besides herself. Of course a considerable degTee of interest has been excited by this intended procedure^ as the two vessels start under pretty equal circumstances to reach the same place by two verj^ different routes^ of the merits of one of which comparatively little is known. November 9th. — Since leaving* Booby Island^ the weather has been fine with lig-ht easterly winds^ the westerly monsoon in these seas not usually setting* in until the month of December. We first made the land in the neig-hbourhood of Cape Croker^ and soon afterivards saw the beacon on Point Smith. Entering* Port Essing-ton we ran up the harbour^ and anchored off the settlement of Victoria early in the afternoon. On landing* and walking- over the place after an * Since the survey of Endeavour Strait in 1844 by Lieutenant Yule in the Bramble (then attached to the Fly under Captain F. P. Blackwood), several sunken rocks have been discovered, thereby lessening the value of the passage through the Strait, as others, yet undetected, to be found only by " sweeping" for them, may be presumed to exist. Captain Stanley was strongly of opinion that the Prince of Wales' Channel was far preferable, especially for large ships, to Endeavour Strait. 136 CONDITION OF THE SETTLEMENT. absence of more than three years^ I mig-ht naturally have looked for some signs of improvement in the appearance of the settlement and condition of the unfortunate residents^ had I not been aware of the non-prog*ressive nature of the system which had long- been established there. I saw no such indica- tions of prosperity except in the flourishing" and improved appearance of the cocoa-nut trees now in full bearing"^ as if nature boldly asserted her rig'hts in opposition to the dormant or even retrograde condition of everything* else in the place. We found the settlement in a ruinous condition. Even the hospital^ the best building* in the place^ had the roof in such a state that when rain came on some of the patients' beds had to be shifted^ and the surg'eon found it necessary to protect his own bed by a tent-like canopy. With fcAV exceptions^ every one was dissatisfied^ and anxiously looked forward to the happy time when the part}" should be relieved^ or the settlement finally abandoned. The unhealthiness* of the place^ so often denied^ * As illustration of this point, I would direct attention to the following tabular view of the Detachment of Marines at Port Essington, from the time of the arrival of the second party to their final departure, embracing a period of five years. I have not been able to procure any authentic statement of the mortality among i\iQ first party. Found there . I officer 0 men") ..,,.,, ^ o 1 ^o 1 ^^^ov. 19th, 1844. Arrived by Cadet 3 do. 52 do. J Do. by Freak 2 do. 6 do. 1847. 6 58 ITS UNHEALTHINESS. 137 had now shewn itself m an unequivocal manner* every one had suffered from repeated attacks of intermittent fever^ and another fever of a more deadly character had occasionally made its appear- ance^ and^ operating' upon previously debilitated constitutions^ frequently proved fatal. There can^ I think^ be little doubt that much of the unhealthiness of the g^arrison depended upon local influences. The situation of Victoria^ at the distance of sixteen miles from the open sea on the shores of an almost land-locked harbour^ was unfavourable for salubrity^ althoug'h in other re- spects judiciously chosen. Occasionally for days tog'ether the sea breeze has not reached as far up as the settlement^ and the heat has been almost stifling- ; usually however the sea breeze set in during* the forenoon^ and after blowing* for some hours was succeeded by a calm^ often interrupted by a g'entle Died . 1 officer 1 2 men Were invalided 1 do, 13 do. Were taken away") , , «^ , ^t ^^ , , ,^ 1(4 do. 33 do. Nov. 30th, 1849. by Moeander j 6 58 I may remark that, although it would obviously be unjust to suppose that all the cases of death and invaliding are to be at- tributed to the effects of the climate, yet the loss of the services of twenty-seven men out of fifty-eight in five years by these means, clearly proves the unhealthiness of the place. Another may be added to the list, for Captain Macarthur was shortly afterwards invalided in Sydney, a victim to the climate of Port Essington. 138 CONDITION OF THE GARRISON. land-'wdnd. Within 400 yards of the hospital a great extent of mud overgTown with mangroves^ dry at low water^ must have exercised a prejudicial influence , at times while crossing* this swamp^ the putrid exhalations have induced a feeling* almost amounting* to nausea. And if anything* more than another shews the comparative unhealthiness of the site of the settlement^ it is the fact^ that invalids sent to Point Smith (at the entrance of the harbour) or Coral Bay^ — both of which places are within the full influence of the sea breeze^ — speedily recovered^ although relapses on their return to Victoria were not unfrequent. Even in the important article of food — setting* aside other secondar}^ stores— the Port Essington g'arrison have almost always been badly supplied. I have seen them oblio-ed to use bread which was not fit for human food — the refuse of the stock on hand at the close of the war in China^ and yet there was none better to be got. In shorty I believe^ as I stated some years ago in a Colonial paper^ that there is probably no vessel in Her Majesty's navy^ no matter Avhere serving*^ the men of which are not better supplied with all the necessaries and comforts of Hfe than are the residents at Port Essinoton. All these have volunteered for the place^ but their pre- conceived ideas formed in Engiand almost always on reaching the place gave way to feehngs of regret at the step they had taken ; I well remember HISTORY OF PREVIOUS SETTLEMENTS. 139 the excitement in the settlement^ and the feeling's of joy everywhere expressed^ when in October 1845^ the first party learned that their relief had arrived. I shall now proceed to make some remarks upon Port Essing'ton^ ere the subject becomes a matter of history^ as I fervently hope the abandonment of the place will render it ere many years have gone by ;* but before doing* so I may premise a brief account of the former British settlements on the north coast of Australia.^ The British Government havino- determined to form an establishment on the northern coast of Aus- tralia^ Captain J. J. Gordon Bremer^ with H.M.S. Tamar^ sailed from Sydney in August 1824^ in company with two store ships and a party of mili- * Port Essington was finally abandoned on November 30 th, 1849, when the garrison and stores were removed to Sydney by H.M.S. Moeander, Captain the Hon. H. Keppel. I may men- tion that most of the remarks in this chapter relative to Port Essington appear as they were originally written in my journal soon after leaving the place in the Rattlesnake ; they are mostly a combination of the observations made during three visits, at intervals of various lengths, including a residence in 1844, of upwards of four months. I am also anxious to place on record a somewhat connected but brief account of the Aborigines, as I have seen many injudicious remarks and erroneous statements regarding them, and as it is only at Port Essington, for the whole extent of coast line between Swan River and Cape York, that we were able to have sufficient intercourse with them to arrive at even a moderate degree of acquaintance with their manners, cus- toms, and language. t See Voyage round the World, by T. B. Wilson, M.D. 140 MELVILLE ISLAND SETTLEMENT. tary and convicts, the latter chiefly mechanics. On September 20th^ they arrived at Port Essing-ton^ when formal possession was taken of the whole of the coast between the 129th and 135th meridians of east longitude. A sufliciency of fresh water not being' found at this place it was determined to proceed to Melville Island^ where they arrived on the 30th^ and commenced forming' the settlement of Fort Dundas in Apsley Strait. This settlement^ however^ after an existence of four years, was abandoned on March 81st^ 1829, in consequence of the continued unfa- vourable accounts transmitted to the Home Govern- ment. Hostilities with the natives had early com- menced^ and several lives were lost on either side. Meanwhile in anticipation of the abandonment of Melville Island^ it had been resolved to found a second settlement upon the north coast of Austraha. For tliis pm^pose_, H.M.S. Success^ Captain Stirling-^ with a convoy of three vessels conveying* troops^ convicts^ stores^ and provisions^ sailed from Sydney^ and arrived at Raffles' Bay on June 17th, 1827. Next day the new settlement of Fort AVelling*ton was formed. A grand error was made in the ^ ery beo'innino' for the site was chosen behind a mud-bank, dry at low tides^ in order to secure proximity to a lag'oon of fresh water^ which after all disappeared towards the close of the dry season. At first the natives committed many depredations^ chiefly during* the nio'ht. About a month after the foundino- of the settlement^ it was thought necessary to order raffles' bay settlement. 141 the sentries to fire upon the natives whenever they approached^ and on one occasion they were g-reeted with a discharg-e of g-rape-shot. At leng-th one of the soldiers ^vas speared^ and in reprisal a part}^ was sent out^ which^ coming- unexpectedly upon a camp of natives^ killed and wounded several^ in- cluding* a woman and two children. When the Bug'is paid their annual visit to the coast several prahus remained to fish for trepang- under the pro- tection of the settlement. Of the healthiness of the place the medical officer states^ ''' There is no endemic disease here. The climate of the place surpasses every other as far as I know^ Avhich is equally as near the equator 3 and were it not for the great heig'ht of atmospheric temperature^ I should consider this one of the best in the world.'^ How- ever^ two years after the foundation of the settle- ment; when hostilities with the natives had ceased^ and a friendly intercourse been established — when the Bug-is had already taken advantag-e of the pro- tection of Europeans to carry on the trepang* fishery in the bay — when the reported unhealthiness of the climate had never exhibited itself-- in short when the settlement had been brouo-ht into a flourishino- state; orders were suddenl}^ received for its entire abandonment; which were carried into effect on Aug-ust 29th; 1829. Eig-ht years after wardS; Government resolved for the fourth time to establish a settlement on the north coast of Australia; with the double view of affording* 142 SETTLEMENT OF VICTORIA. shelter to the crews of vessels wrecked in Torres Strait^ and of endeavoiirmg' to throw open to British enterprise the neig-hbouring- islands of the Indian Archipelag-o. For this purpose^ H.M.S. Allig*ator^ under the command of Captain J. J. Gordon Bremer^ and H.M.S. Britomart (Lieut. Owen Stanley)^ were sent out^ and left Sydney for Port Essing-ton in September 1837. Another vessel mth stores accompanied the Allig'ator^ and both arrived at Port Essino-ton on October 27th of the same year. Soon afterwards^ upon a site for the settle- ment being* chosen^ the necessary operations were commenced^ and by the end of May in the following- year^ the preliminary arrang-ements having* been completed^ the Allig-ator left^, and Captain John Macarthm^^ R.M.^ with a subaltern^ assistant-sur- o-eon^ storekeeper^ and a ling-uist^ tog*ether mth a detachment of forty marines^ remained in charg*e of the new settlement. The Britomart remained behind for several years as a tender to this naval station^ or military post^ — for either term is equally applic- able^ and was afterwards succeeded in her charg*e by H.M.S. Boyalist. In October^ 1845^ the remains of the orig*inal part}" which had been there for seven years (including^ also a small detachment sent down from China)^ were relieved by a draft from Eng*land of two subalterns^ an assist ant-surg*eon^ and fifty- two rank and file of the Boyal Marines^ Captain Macarthur still remaining* as commandant. The Port Essing-ton experiment I am afraid is to PORT ESSINGTON A MILITARY POST. 143 be reg-arded as a complete failure. Yet it could not well have been otherwise. It was never more than a mere militar}^ post^ and the smallness of the party^ almost always further lessened by sickness^ was such that^ even if judiciously managed^ little more could be expected than that they should be employed merely in rendering- their oAvn condition more comfortable. And now after the settlement has been established for eleven years^ they are not even able to keep themselves in fresh vegetables^ much less efficiently to supply any of Her Majesty's vessels which may happen to call there. In order to develope the resources of a colony^ always provided it possesses any such^ surely some- thing* more is required than the mere presence of a party of soldiers^ but it appears throug-hout^ that Government were opposed to giving* encourag*ement to the permanent settlement at Port Essington^ of any of her Majesty's subjects. It is well perhaps that such has been the case^ as I can conceive few positions more distressing* than that which a settler would soon find himself placed in were he tempted by erroneous and highly coloured reports of the productiveness of the place — and such are not want- ing*^— to come there with the vain hopes of being* able to raise tropical productions* for export^ even * I need not here enlarge upon the unfitness of Port Essing- ton for agricultural pursuits — even that point has long ago been given up. The quantity of land which might be made productive is exceedingly small, and although cotton, sugar cane, and other 144 ADVANTAGES OF PORT ESSINGTON. with tlie assistance of Chinese or Malay labourers. Wool, the staple commodity of Australia^ would not gTow there^ and the country is not adapted for the support of cattle to any g-reat extent. Yet the little settlement at Port Essing-ton has not been altoofether useless. The knowledg-e of the existence of such a military post^ within a few days' sail of the islands in question^ tog-ether with the visits of Commander Stanley in the Britomart^ had completely prevented a repetition of the out- rag-es formerly committed upon European trading- vessels at the various islands of the g-roup extending- between Timor and New Guinea. The crews and passeng-ers of various vessels wrecked in Torres Strait had frequently found in Port Essing-ton a place of shelter, after six hundred miles and more of boat navig-ation, combined with the difficulty of determining- the entrance, owing- to the lowness of the land thereabouts, which mig-ht easily be passed in the nig'ht, or even during* the day, if distant more than ten or twelve miles. I have myself been a witness to the providential relief and extreme hos- pitality afforded there to such unfortunates. Still, as a harbour of refug-e, it is obvious that Cape York is the most suitable place, situated as it is within a short distance of the spot where disasters by ship- wreck in Torres Strait and its approaches have been most frequent. tropical productions thrive well in one of the two gardens, there is no field for their growth upon a remunerative scale. NATIVES or THE COBOURG PENINSULA. 145 Port Essing"ton lias sometimes been alluded to as being- admirabl}^ adapted for a depot from whicli European g-oods can be introduced among- the neigh- bouring' islands of the Indian Archipehig-o^ but on this subject I would perfectly coincide with Mr. Jukes^ who states — " Now^ the best plan for a vessel wishing' to trade with the independent islands^ obviously^ is to g'o to them at once 5 while she has just as g-ood an opportunity to smug-g-le her g*oods into the Dutch islands^ if that be her object^ as the natives would have if they were to come and fetch them from Port Essington.'^ The natives of the Cobourg* Peninsula are divided into four tribes^ named respective^ the Bijenelumbo^ Limbakarajia^ Limbapyu^ and Terrutong*. The first of these occupies the head of the harbour (in- cluding- the gTound on which the settlement is built)^ and the country as far back as the isthmus^ — the second^ both sides of the port lower down^ — the third^ the north-west portion of the peninsula^ — and the last have possession of Croker's Island^ and the adjacent coasts of the mainland. From the constant intercom'se which takes place between these tribes^ their affinity of lang'uag-e^ and similarity in phy- sical character^ manners^ and custom s^ they may be spoken of as one. The Aborig-ines of Port Essing'ton scarcely differ from those of the other parts of Australia^— I mean^ there is no striking' peculiarity. The septum of the VOL. T. L 140 THEIR ORNAMENTS nose is invariably perforated^ and the right central incisor— rarely the left^ is knocked out during* child- hood. Both sexes are more or less ornamented with laro-e raised cicatrices on the shoulders and across the chesty abdomen^ and buttocks^ and outside of the thig'hs. No clothing- is at any time worn by these people^ and their ornaments are few in num- ber. These last consist chiefl}^ of wristlets of the fibres of a plant — and armlets of the same^ Avound round with cordag*e^ are in nearly universal use. Necklaces of frao-ments of reed struno- on a thread, or of cordag'e passing- under the arms and crossed over the back^ and girdles of finely twisted human hair^ are occasionally worn by both sexes^ and the men sometimes add a tassel of the hair of the opossum or flying* squirrel^ suspended in fi'ont. A piece of stick or bone thrust into the perforation in the nose completes the costume. Like the other Australians^ the Port Essing-ton blacks are fond of painting- themselves with red^ yellow^ white^ and blacky in different styles^ considered appropriate to dancing*^ fig-hting*^ mourning-^ &c. These people construct no huts except during* the rainy season^ when they put up a rude and temporary structure of bark. Their utensils are few in number^ consisting- merely of fine baskets of the stems of a rush-like plant^ and others of the base of the leaf of the Se/ifor'thia palm^ the latter principally used for containing- water. Formerly bark canoes were in g-eneral use^ but they are now completely AND WEAPONS. 14? superseded by others^ hollowed out of the trunk of a tree^ whicli they procure ready-made from the Malays^ m exchang-e for tortoise-shelly and in return for assistance in collecting' trepang*. The aboriginal weapons are clubs and spears^ — of the latter the variety is very gTeat^ there being* at least fourteen distinct kinds. Their clubs are three in number, made of the toug'h heavy Avood called walldruy a kind of gum-tree, the iron-bark of Ne^v South Wales ; one is cylindrical, four feet long, tapering at each extremity ; the other tw^o, of similar length, are compressed, with sharp edges, — one narrow, the other about four inches in g'reatest width, and resembling a cricket-bat in shape. These weapons on account of their great w eight are used only at close quarters, and are never throw n like the wT^ddy of New South Wales. The spears of the Port Essington natives may be divided into two classes, — 1st, those thrown with the hand alone, and 2nd, those propelled by the additional powerfhl leverag'e afforded by the throw ing-stick. The hand-spears are made entirely of wood, g'enerally the w^allaroo^ in one or two pieces, plain at the point or variously toothed and barbed ; a small light spear of the latter description is sometimes throw^n wdth a short cylindrical stick ornamented at one end wdth a larg'e bunch of twisted human hair. The spears of the second class are shafted with reed. The smallest, which is no big'ger than an arrow, is propelled by a large flat and supple throwing'-stick to a great L 2 148 ARTICLES OF FOOD. distance^ but not with much precision. Of the larg-er ones (from eig-ht to twelve feet in leng'th)^ the two most remarkable are headed with a pointed^ sharp-edg-ed^ flatly-triang'ular piece of quartz or fine g-rained basalt^ procured from the mountains beyond the isthmus. These larg*e reed-shafted spears are throw^n with a stiff flat throwing'-stick a 3^ard long-^ and with pretty certain effect w ithin sixt}^ paces. The food of the aborigines consists chiefly of fish and shell-fish^ to which as subsidiary articles may be added lizards^ snakes^ opossums^ various birds^ and an occasional kang^aroo^ turtle^ dug'ong*^ or porpoise. Several roots (one of which is a true yam)^ together with various fruits in their seasons^ — especially a cashew-nut or Anacardium^ also the base of the undeveloped central leaves of the cabbag'e-palm^ are much prized. The dig'ging* up of roots and coUectino- of shell-fish are duties which devolve upon the females. Before the arrival of Europeans^ in cases of remarkable disease or accident^ certain old men known by the name of hilho (by which cog*nomen the medical officers of the settlement have also been disting-uished) were applied to for advice. I know of no popular remedies_j however^ with the exception of tig'ht ligatures near a w ound^ bruise or sore^ the object of which is to prevent the malady from passing- into the bodv- In like manner for a head-ache, a fillet is bound tightly across the forehead. These people^ BURIAL CEREMONIES. 149 like most other savag-es^ recover in a most surprising- manner from wounds and other injuries which would probably prove fatal to an European. The chief complaint to which they are subject is a mild form of ophthalmia^ with a\ hich I once saw three -fourths of the natives about the settlement affected in one or both eyes; they themselves attributed this affection to the hirgala^ or cashew-nut^ then in season^ the acrid oil in the husk of which had reached their eyes. On the death of any one of the natives^ the relatives g^ive utterance to their grief in loud cries^ sobs^ and shrieks^ continued to exhaustion. Some cut their bodies and tear their hair, and the Avomen paint their faces with broad w hite bands. The body is watched by nig-ht, and the appearance of the first fallino' star is hailed Avith loud shouts and Avavino* of fire-brands^ to drive off the yumhurhary an evil spirit which is the cause of all deaths and other calamities, and feeds on the entrails of the ncAA^y dead. When decomposition has g'one on sufficiently far, the bones are carefully removed, painted red, Avrapped up in bark^ and carried about ivith the tribe foi* some time ; after AA^hich they are finally deposited^ either in a hollo AV tree or a shalloAV g*rave, over Avhich a Ioav mound of earth and stones is raised, occasionally ornamented A\ith posts at the corners. I Avas unable to find out A\'hat circumstances determine the mode of burial in each case ) neither differences of sex^ ag-e, or class are sufficient, as several native^ 150 SUPERSTITIONS whom I questioned told me which of the two kinds of burial his or her body would receive^ without being* able to assig'n an}^ reason. Their reverence for the dead is probably not very g-reat^ as even a relative of the deceased will sell the skull or skeleton for a small consideration^ on condition of the matter being- kept a secret. Like other Australians they carefully refrain from mentioning* the name of any one who is dead^ and like them^ believe in the transmig-ration of souls^ — after death the}" become Malays (the first strang*ers they had come in contact with)^ in precisely the same way as in New South Wales^ &c. ^^when black-fellow die, he jump up white-fellow." In addition to the yumhurhar above mentioned^ there is another supernatural being*, which has a corporeal existence. It appears in the shape of a man, and loves to g'rapple with strag'g'lers in the dark, and carry them olF. So much is the arlali an object of dread, that a native will not willing'ly g*o alone in the dark, even a very short distance from his fire, without carrying* a lig'ht. Some have assured me that they had seen this arlahy and one man shev> ed me wounds said to have been inflicted by its teeth, and I have no doubt of his having* « firmly believed that they were produced in this manner. Although in each tribe there are three distinct classes, possibly ranks, or perhaps something* analo- gous to the division in other countries into castes, AND INSTITUTIONS. 151 yet there does not appear to be anything' approaching- to chieftainship. There are a few elderly men^ however^ in each tribe^ who^ having* acquired a reputation for sag-acity and energy^ exercise a cer- tain deg'ree of authority over the 3'oung'er members^ and g-enerally manag'e important matters in their OTVH way. Yet very few of these principal men are of the hig'hest class, the mmijerojelle, — the middle is termed manjerawide^ — and the lowest manhulgetj but I could not succeed in making* out what privi- leg*es^ if any^ are enjoyed by the superior classes. The members of all tln*ee appeared to be upon a perfect equality. Polyg-amy^ althoug-h one of their institutions^ is Uttle practised^ as few men have more than one A^ ife at a time. The betrothal of a female takes place in infancv, and often even before birth. A few half-caste children have been born^ but they do not appear to tlmve^ althoug'h this does not imply any want o* attention on the part of the mothers. These natives are fond of social enjoyment. Theii* evening's are passed away round the fires^ with song's g'enerally of a low^ plaintive^ and not unpleasing' character^ time being* kept by beating' one bone or stick upon another. They ha^ e besides what may be called a musical instrument— the ihcro — a piece of bamboo, three feet in leng'th^ which^ by bloA^ing* into it^ is made to produce an interrupted^ drumming', monotonous noise. In their dances I observed nothing- peculiar. 152 LAWS OF PUNISHMENT In illustration of their laws relative to punish nients^ and to shew their identity with those of other Australian tribes^ I ma}^ mention a circumstance which came under my own knowledg*e. One nig^ht about ten o'clock^ hearing* an uproar at a native encampment near the hospital^ I ran out and found that a young- man^ named Munjerrijo^ having* excited the jealousy of another^ of the name of Yung-un^ on account of some improper conduct towards the wife of the latter^ had been severely wounded^ his arm being- broken w ith a club^ and his head laid open with an ii'on-headed fishing- spear. As the punish- ment was considered too severe for the offence^ it was finally determined^ that^ upon Munjerrijo's re- cover}^^ the two natives who had wounded him should oflfer their heads to him to be struck with a club^ the usual way^ it would appear, of settling- such matters. Like the other Australian tribes^ those of Port Essing-ton are frequently at feud with their neig'h- bours^ and quarrels sometimes last for years^ or^ if settled^ are apt to break out afresh. In these cases the lex talionis is the only recog-nised one. I may g-ive an example. A Monobar native (inhabitant of the country to the westward of the isthmus) was shot by a marine in the execution of his duty^ for attempting- to escape while in custody^ charg-ed with robbery. When his tribe heard of it^ as they could not lay their hands upon a Avhite man^ they enticed into their territory a Bijenelumbo man^ called Nein- mal, who was a friend of the whites^ having- lived AND REVENGE. 153 with them for 3 ears^ and on that account he was selected as a victim and killed. When the news of Neinmal's death reached the settlement^ some other Bijenelumbo people took reveng-e by killing* a Monohar native within a few hundred yards of the houses. Thus the matter rests at present^ but more deaths will probably follow before the feud is ended. Both these murders were committed under circum- stances of the utmost atrocity^ the victims being" surprised asleep unconscious of dang^er and perfectly defenceless^ then aroused to find themselves treach- erously attacked by numbers^ who^ after spearing* them in many places^ fearfully mang'led the bodies with clubs. In some of the settled districts of Australia mis- sionaries have been established for many years back^ still it must be confessed that the results of their labours are far from being- encouraging*. Indeed no less an authority than Mr. Eyre^ writing* in 1848^ vuihesitatingiy states as folio avs : ''' Nor is it in my recollection/' says he^ " that throug'hout the whole leng'th and breadth of New Holland^ a single real and permanent convert to Christianity has yet been made among*st them.''* From Avhat I myself have seen or heard^ in the colony of New South Wales^ I have reason to believe the missionary efforts there^ while proving* a complete failure so far as reg-ards the Christianising' of the blacks, have yet been produc- * Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central Australia, &c. by E. J. Eyre, vol. ii. p» 420. 154 ACCOUNT OF NEINMAL^ tive of much g"ood in rendering' them less dang-erous and more useful to their white neig'hbours^ without however permanently reclaiming- more than a few from their former wandering" and savag'e mode of life_, and enabling* them and their families to live contentedly on the produce of their own labour. I am not one of those who consider that the Austra- lian is not susceptible of anything- like such perma- nent improvement as may be termed civilization^ althoug"h it appears to have been sufficiently proved that his intellectual capacity is of a very low order. Many of the Port Essing-ton natives have shewn a remarkable deg-ree of intellig'ence, far above the averag-e of Europeans^ uneducated^ and living- in remote districts^ — among- others I may mention the name of Neinmal (the same alluded to in the pre- ceding- parag-raph)^ of whose character I had g-ood opportunities of judging-^ for he lived with me for ten months. During* my stay at Port Essing'ton^ he became much attached to me^ and latterl}^ accom- panied me in all my wandering's in the bush^ while investig-ating' the natural history of the district^ following" up the researches of my late and much lamented friend Gilbert.* One day^ while detained by rainy weather at my camp^ I was busy in skin- ning- a fish^—Neinmal watched me attentively for some time and then withdrew^ but returned in half an hour afterwards^ with the skin of another fish in * See Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia, &c. by Dr. Ludwig Leichhardt, p. 309, for an account of his death. AN ABORIGINAL OF TORT ESSINGTON. 155 his hand prepared by himself^ and so well done too^ that it was added to the collection. I could give many other instances of his sagacity^ his docility^ and even his acute perception of character^ — latterly^ he seemed even to read my very thoughts. He accompanied me in the Fly to Torres Strait and New Guinea^ and on our return to Port Essing'ton beo'o»ed so hard to continue with me that I could not refuse him. He went with us to Singapore^ Java^ and Sydney^ and from his g'reatgood humour became a favourite with all on board^ picking up the English language with facility^ and readily conform- ing himself to our habits^ and the discipline of the ship. He was very cleanly in his personal habits^ and paid much attention to his dress^ which was always kept neat and tidy. I was often much amused and surprised by the oddity and justness of his remarks upon the many strange sights which a voyage of this kind brought before him. The Nemesis steamer under weigh puzzled him at first — he then thoug'ht it was " all same big cart^ only got him shing'les* on wheels !" He always expressed gTeat contempt for the dulness of comprehension of his countrymen^ '' big fools the}^^/' he used often to say^ ^' black fel- low no good." Even Malays^ Chinamen^ and the natives of India, he counted as nothing' in his in- creasing admiration of Europeans^ until he saw some sepoys^ when he altered his opinion a little^ and thought that he too^ if only big enough, would * Wooden '' tiles" generally used for coveriua; the roofs of houses in Australia. 156 ACCOUNT OF NEINMAL, like to be a soldier. The poor fellow suffered much from cold during" the passag-e round Cape Leeuwin and was ill when landed at Sydney^ but soon reco- vered. Although his thoughts were always cen- tred in his native home^ and a girl to whom he was much attached^ he yet volunteered to accompany me to England^ when the Fly was about to sail^ but as I had then no immediate prospect of returning" to Australia^ I could not undertake the responsi- bility of having* to provide for him for the future. I was g*lad then when Lieut. Yule^ who was about to revisit Port Essing'ton^ generously offered to take him there— while in the Bramble he made himself useful in assisting* the steward^ and^ under the tuition of Dr. MacClatchie^ made some proficiency in acquiring* the rudiments of reading and writing*. At Port Essington^ the older members of his family evinced much jealousy on account of the attention shewn him^ and his determination to remain ^vith Mr. Tilston^ the assistant-surg'eon^ then in charge^ and endeavoured to dissuade him from his purpose. While upon a visit to his tribe he met his death in the manner already recorded. His natm'al courag*e and presence of mind did not desert him even at the last extremity^ when he was roused from sleep to find himself surrounded by a host of savag'es thirst- ing for his blood. They told him to rise^ but he merely raised himself upon his elbow, and said— " If you want to kill me do so where I am, I won't get up— give me a spear and club, and I'll fight you all one by one !" He had scarcely spoken when a man FATHER ANJELLO. 157 iinmed Alerk speared him from behind^ spear after spear followed^ and as he lay writhmg- on the g*round his sa\ag-e murderers Hterally dashed him to pieces with their clubs. The account of the manner in which Neinmal met his death was given me by a very intellig-ent native who had it from an eye- witness^ and I have every reason to believe it true^ corroborated as it was by the testimony of others. Even Port Essing'ton was destined to become the scene of missionary" labours. A party of three persons^ sent out by the '' Society for the Propag'a- tion of the Faith/' one an Italian Roman Catholic priest^ the others lay brothers of his order^ em- barked at Sydney^ sometime in 1847. The vessel conveying* them unfortunately struck on a reef near the Northumberland Isles during- the nighty and Father Anjello was the only one of his party saved^ and reached Port Essing'ton in a most destitute condition. Nothing* daunted^ however^ he com- menced his labours among* the blacks^ by first acquiring* the native lang'uag*e/ in which he ulti- mately became so proficient as to understand it thoroug*hl3\ A hut was built for him at a place called Black Rock^ near the entrance of the harbour^ at the distance of 14 miles from the settlement. * I regret that the arrangements for this work will not admit of my publishing in the Appendix a Port Essington vocabulary, consisting of about 650 words, in four dialects, formed in 1844, and corrected and improved in 1848 ; the MSS. will be deposited in the library of the British Museum. 158 FATHER ANJELLO AND HIS LABOURS. Here he collected together as man}^ of the children of the Limbakarajia tribe as he could induce to remain in the neighbourhood. He endeavoured to instruct them in the elements of his rehgion, and taug-ht them to repeat prayers in Latin^ and follow him in some of the ceremonious observances of the Roman Catholic Church. Like other children this amused them^ and so long as they were well fed and supplied with tobacco^ everything went on as he could desu'e. Meanwhile he was supported chiefly by the contributions of the officers of the garrison^ themselves not well able to spare much. While leading this lonely life he seems gradually to have given way to gloomy despondenc3\ I recol- lect one passage in his diary (which I once saw for an hour)^ where he expresses himself thus : '^ An- other year has gone by^ and with it all signs of the promised vessel. Oh ! God^ even hope seems to have deserted me.^^ At length a vessel from Sydney arrived^ bringing a large supply of stores of every kind for the mission^ but it was too late^ for Father Anjello and his sorrows were alike resting* in the tomb. One day news came that he was ill ; a boat was sent immediately for him^ and found him dying. He was removed to the settlement and next day he breathed his last — another^ but not the last victim to the climate. His death-bed was described to me as having been a fearful scene. He exhibited the greatest horror of death^ and in his last extremity blasphemously denied that there was a God ! STATION AT COEAL BAY. 159 In concluding- the subject of the Aborig-ines, I may add that at present the natives of Port Essing*- ton have Uttle to thank the white man for. The advantag-e of being provided with reg'ular food and other comforts enjoyed by such as are in service are merely temporary^ and^ like the means of g-ratifying* two new habits — the use of tobacco and spirits — to which the}^ have become passionately addicted^ will cease when the settlement is abandoned. The last importation of the whites w^as syphilis^ and by it they will probably be remembered for years to come. During- our stay at Port Essington^ I made an excursion in the decked boat of the settlement (Avhich Capt. Macarthur khidly allowed me the use of) to Coral Bay^ a station for invalids, very pleasantly situated on the western side of the harbour, twelve miles from Victoria. We found there my old friend Mr. Tilston,* the assistant-surgeon, with some con- valescents under his charge. This is a much cooler and pleasanter locality than the neighbourhood of the settlement, still the heat was at times very great. I had here pointed out to me a kind of tea-tree, or Melaleuca, which had a short time before been * In addition to zealous attention to his medical duties, Mr. Tilston's great mechanical skill was often of service to the settlement. He was much attached to Natural History pursuits, made large collections, and many drawings. His gentleness of disposition endeared him to all. He died of fever in the following year. 160 Sail from port essington. recog^nized by a Malay as that producing' the valuable cajeput oil^ and on trial^ the oil procured from the leaves by distillation^ was found to be scarcel}^ inferior in pung-ency to that of the Mela- leuca Cajeputi of the Moluccas! Here^ too^ Ave saw some of the pla^^-houses of the greater bower-bird [Clilamydera nuchalis), and had the pleasm^e of witnessing* the male bird playing* his strang-e antics as he flew up to the spot and alig-hted with a dead shell in his mouthy laid it down^ ran throug'h the bower^ returned^ picked up the shelly and rearrang*ed the heap among* which it was placed^ flew off ag'ain and soon returned with another^ — and so on. On November 16th we got under weig*h at day- light^ but the wind died awa}^ in the afternoon^ and we anchored half way down the harbour. Next day we got out to sea on our voyage to Sydney. We were all glad to leave Port Essington^ — it was like escaping from an oven. During our stay the sky was generally overcast^ with heavy cumuli^ and distant lightning at nighty but no rain fell^ and the heat was excessive. These were indications of the approaching change of the monsoon * — the rainy season^ Avith the wind more or less westerly^ usually commencing in December and continuing until March. December 3rfZ.— Lat. 11° 2 S. long. 123" 11' E. To-day we may be said to have cleared the land after a dead beat to the westward^ between the Sahul Bank and the islands of Timor and Rottee. It RETURN TO SYDNEY. 161 took US eleven days to make g'ood less than 800 miles. The land was in sig'ht during* the greater portion of this time^ and we had a good view of the noble mountain-range of Timor^ also of Eottee and the Strait of Semao^ which last we entered with the intention of passing- through^ but the wind headed us and we had to pass to the southward of E,ottee. For a few days after leaving Port Essington we experienced very lig'lit and variable winds^ which gradually settled into south-westerly^ with occa- sional gloomy blowing weather and frequent squalls at nio'ht. At length on January 24th^ 1849^ a long- and monotonous passage of sixty-eight days brought us to Sydney^ from which we had been absent for nine months. VOL. I. M CHAPTER V. TATE or KEIXN^EDT's EXPEDITIOIS" — SAIL 0^ OUR SECOJfD KOETnEEX CEUIZE — EXCrESION OlS" MOEETON ISLA]S"D HISTOET OF DISCOYEEIES 02f THE SOTTTH-EAST COAST OP IfEW GUINEA AJ^D THE LOUISIADE AECHIPELAGO EEOM 1606 TO 1816 — ri:s^D the shoees of the LonsiAHE PEOTECTED BY A BAEEIEE-EEEF — BEAUTIFUL APPEAEANCE OF EOSSEL ISLAND — PASS THEOUGH AN OPENING- IN THE EEEF AND ENTEE COEAL HAYEN — INTEEYIEWS WITH NATIYES ON PIG ISLAND — FIND THEM TEEACHEEOUSLT DISPOSED — THEIE MODE OF FISHING ON THE EEEFS — ESTABLISH A SYSTEM OF BAETEE ALONGSIDE THE SHIP — DESCEIPTION OF THE LOUISIADE CANOES AND MODE OF MANAGEMENT — FIND A WATEEING PLACE ON SOUTH-EAST ISLAND — ITS SCENEEY AND PEODUCTIONS — SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT OF THE NATIYES — THEIE OENAMENTS, ETC. DESCEIBED. The most eventful occurrence during- our stay in S} dne}"^ was the arrival of the schooner which we had left at Port Alhanv, awaitino- the arrival of Mr. Kennedy. She hroug-ht the sad news of the disastrous failure of his expedition^ and of the death of all hut three composing^ the overland party, including- their hrave hut ill-fated leader. I was present at the judicial in^estig-ation which shortly afterwards took place^ and shall hriefly relate the particulars. I shall not easily forg*et the appearance which the survivors presented on this occasion^ — OVERLAND EXPEDITION. 163 pale and emaciated^ with hag'g-ard looks attesting- the misery and privations they had undergone^ and with low trembling- voices^ they gave their evidence. It would appear that their difficulties commenced at the outset^ as many weeks passed before they g-ot clear of Eocking-ham Bay^ its rivers^ swamps^ and dense scrubs^ fenced in b}' a mountain chain. Six weeks elapsed before they were enabled to pursue a northerly course^ the scrubs or dense brushes still continuing'^ requiring* the party to cut their Ava}'. The carts were abandoned on July 18th, and the horses were packed. Sickness early made its appearance^ the stock of provisions was g*etting- low^ the horses lono- faihno- in streno-th were dyino- of weakness^ and their flesh was used as food. On November lOth^ or upwards of five months after leavino- Rockino'ham Bay, havino- made less than 400 miles in a direct line towards their destination^ and three of the party having- been completel}" knocked up^ and the remainder in a feeble state ; nineteen of their horses dead^ and their pro- visions reduced to one sheep^ forty-six pounds of flour^ and less than one pound of tea^ — Mr. Kennedy resolved to form a light party consisting- of himself^ three men^ and the aboriginal Jackey Jackey^ and push on for Cape York^ distant about 130 miles^ to procure assistance for the remainder^ and save them from impending death by the combined influences of sickness^ exhaustion_, and starvation. M 2 104 FATE OF Kennedy's On November 13th Kennedy started^ leaving- eig'ht men at the camp at AVeymouth Bay. Near Shelbm-ne Bay one of the party accidentally shot himself, and another Avas too ill to proceed , conse- quently^ it was determined to leave them behind in charge of the third man^ with a horse for food^ ■\^ hile Kennedy and the black pushed on for Port Albany. At length near Escape River^ within twenty miles of Cape York^ a tribe of natives with Avhom they had had some apparently friendly intercourse^ tempted by their forlorn condition and a savage thirst for plunder^ attacked them in a scrub and with too fatal success^ as the gallant leader of this unfortunate expedition breathed his last after receiving no less than three spear wounds. The affecting narrative of what passed during his last moments as related by his faithfid companion^ is simply as follows. — ^^ Mr. Kennedy^ are 3'ou going to leave me V^ " Yes^ my boy^ I am g'oing to leave you/' was the reply of the dying man^ ^^ I am very bad^ Jackey j you take the books^ .lackey, to the Captain^ but not the big ones^ the Governor will give anything for them." ^^ I then tied up the papers ;'' he then said^ ^^ Jackey^ give me paper and I A\'ill A^rite." ^^ I g-ave him paper and pencil^ and he tried to write ; and he then fell back and died^ and I caught him as he fell back and held him^ and I then turned round myself and cried ; I was crying a g*ood while until I got well; that was about an hour^ and then I buried him ; I dug up OVERLAND EXPEDITION. 165 the gTound with a tomahawk^ and covered him over with log*s^ then grass^ and my shirt and trowsers ; that night I left him near dark." About eight da3's after^ Jackey Jackey^ having- with wonderful ing-enuity succeeded in escaping from his pursuers^ contrived to reach Port Albany, and was received on board the vessel, which immediately proceeded to Shelburne Bay to en- deavour to rescue the three men left there. The attempt to find the place was unsuccessful, and from the evidence furnished by clothes said by Jackey to belong to them, found in a canoe upon the beach, little doubt seemed to exist as to their fate. They then proceeded to Weymouth Bay, where they arrived Justin time to save Mr. Carron, the botanical collector, and another man, the remaining six having perished. In the words of one of the survivors, ^^ the men did not seem to suffer pain, but withered into perfect skeletons, and died from utter exhaustion." Such was the fate of Kennedy's expedition, and in conclusion, to use the words of the Sydney Morning Herald, '^ it Avould appear that as far as earnestness of purpose, unshrinking endurance of pain and fatigue, and most disinterested self-sacrifice, go, the gallant leader of the party exhibited a model for his subordinates. But the great natural difii- culties they had to encounter at the outset of the expedition so severely affected the resources of the adventurers, that they sunk under an accumulation 16G SAIL ON OUR SECOND of sufFering-s^ which have rarely^ if ever been equalled^ in the most extreme perils of the wilder- ness.'' Our stay in S3'dney was protracted to the unusual period of three months and a half, affording^ ample time for refreshino- the crews after their lono^ and arduous labours^ thoroug'hly refitting* both vessels^ and completing' the charts. The object of our next cruize^ which was expected to be of equal dm^ation with the last^ was to undertake the survey of a portion of the Louisiade Archipelag'o^ and the south-east coast of New Guinea. For this purpose we sailed from Sydney on May 8th^ deeply laden^ with six months provisions on board^ arrang'ements having' also been made for receiving* a further supply at Cape York in October following*. The Bramble joined us at Moreton Bay^ where we did not arrive until May 17th^ our passag'e having* been protracted beyond the usual time by the prevalence during* the early part of lig'ht northerly winds and a strong* adverse current^ which on one occasion set us fifty-one miles to the south- ward in twenty-fom* hours. We took up our former anchorao-e under Moreton Island and remained there for nine days^ occupied in completing* our stock of water^ and obtaining* a rate for the chrono- meters— so as to ensure a g'ood meridian distance between this and the Louisiade. Since our last visit^ the pilot station had been shifted to this place from Amity Pointy the northern entrance to NORTHEN CRUIZE. 167 Moreton Bay being- now preferred to that formerly in use. One nio'ht while returnino- from an excursion, I saw some fires behind the beach near Cumboyooro Pointy and on walking* up was g'lad to find an encampment of about thirty natives^ collected there for the piu'pose of fishing*^ this being* the spawning- season of the mullet^ which now frequent the coast in prodigious shoals. Finding* among" the party an old friend of mine^ usually known by the name of Funny-eye^ I obtained with some difficulty per- mission to sleep at his fire^ and he g*aye me a roasted mullet for supper. The party at our bivouac^ con- sisted of my host^ his wife and two children^ an old man and two wretched dogs. We lay down with our feet towards a larg-e fire of drift wood^ partially sheltered from the wind by a semicircular line of branches^ stuck in the sand behind us \ stilly while one part of the body was nearly roasted^ the rest shivered with cold. The woman appeared to be busy all night long in scaling* and roasting* fish^ of which^ before mornings she had a large pile ready cooked \ neither did the men sleep much — for they awoke every hour or so^ g'orged themselves still fur- ther with mullet^ took a copious draught of water^ and wound up by lighting* their pipes before lying* down ag'ain. At daylight every one was up and stirring*^ and soon afterwards the men and boys went down to the beach to fish. The rollers coming* in from seaward 168 HISTORY OF PREVIOUS DISCOVERIES broke about one hundred 3^ards from the shore^ and in the advancmg wave one mig-ht see thousands of larg-e mullet keejiing* together in a shoal with num- bers of porpoises playing- about^ making* frequent rushes among- the dense masses and scattering- them in everv direction. Such of the men as were fur- nished with the scoop-net waded out in line^ and^ waiting- until the porpoises had driven the mullet close in shore^ rushed among" the shoal^ and^ closing- round in a circle with the nets nearly touching-^ secured a number of fine fish^ averaging two and a half pounds weight. This was repeated at intervals until enough had been procured. Meanwhile others^ chiefly boys^ were at Avork with their spears^ darting- them in every direction among the fish^ and on the best possible terms with the porpoises^ which were dashing- about among- their leg-s^ as if fully aware that they would not be molested. On May 26th^ we sailed from Moreton Bay ,— but, before entering- into the details of this^ the most inte- resting- portion of the Vo3"ag'e of the Rattlesnake^ a brief but connected account of the progress of dis- covery on the south-east coast of New Guinea^ and the Louisiade Archipelago^ will enable the reader more clearly to perceive the necessit}^ then existing' for as complete a survey of these shores and the adjacent seas as would enable the vo3'ager to approach them with safety. A glance at any of the published charts will show a vague outline of coast and islands and reefs^ with numerous blanks— a compilation ON THE SOUTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 1C9 from various sources^ some utterly unworthy of credit; and of the inhahitants and productions of these regions^ nothing* was known heyond that por- tion at least of them were peopled by a savag'e and w^arlike race. The first navigator who saw the shores in ques- tion^ appears to have been Luiz Vaez de Torres^ in the Spanish frigate La Almiranta^ coming from the eastward^ in August lOOG. In lat. lli° S.^ Torres came upon Avhat he calls the heginninfi of Kew Guinea^ which^ however^ appears to have been a portion of what is now known as the Louisiade Ar- chipelago. Being' unable to weather the eastern- most point of this land (Cape Deliverance)^ he bore away to the westward along its southern shores. '^ All this land of New Guinea y^ says he^ in his long' forgotten letter to the king- of Spain (a copy of which was found in the Archives at Manila^ after the capture of that city by the British^ in 17C2)^ ^^is peopled with Indians^ not very white^ much painted^ and naked^ except a cloth made of the bark of trees. They fight with darts^ targets^ and some stone clubs^ which are made fine with plumage. Along- the coast are many islands and habitations. All the coast has many ports^ very large^ with very large rivers-, and many plains. Without these islands there runs a reef of shoals^ and between them [the shoals] and the mainland are the islands. There is a channel within. In these parts I took possession for your Majest}^ 170 LUIZ VAEZ DE TORRES. ^^We went alonof 300 leao-ues of coast, as I have mentioned^ and diminished the latitude 2|-''^ which brouo'ht us into 9°. From hence we fell in with a bank of from three to nine fathoms^ which extends alono* the coast above 180 leao-ues. We went over it along' the coast to 1\ S. latitude^ and the end of it is in 5"*. We could not g*o fiu'ther on for the many shoals and gTeat currents^ so we were oblig-ed to sail out S.W. in that dej)th to ll'' S. latitude/' By this time Torres had reached the Strait which now bears his name^ and which he was the first to pass throug'h. He continues^ . . . . ^^ We caug-ht in all this land twenty persons of different nations^ that with them we might be able to give a better account to your Majesty. They give much notice of other people^ although as yet they do not make themselves well understood.''* M. de Bougainville^ in June^ 1768^ with two vessels^ La Boudeuse and L'Etoile^ was proceeding to the eastward towards the coast of Australia^ when the unexpected discovery of some detached reefs (Bougainville's reefs of the charts) induced him to alter course and stand to the northward. No land was seen for three days. ^^ On the lOth^ at daybreak/' says he^ ^^ the land was discovered^ bear- ing from east to N.W. Long before dawn a deli- * Barney's Chronological History of Voyages and Discoveries in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean. Vol. II. (Appendix) p. 475. M. BE BOUGAINVILLE. 171 cious odour informed us of the vicinity of this hmd^ which formed a g'reat g'ulph open to the south-east. I have seldom seen a country which presented so beautiful a prospect ; a low land^ divided into plains and gToves^ extended along- the sea shore^ and afterwards rose like an amphitheatre up to the mountains^ whose summits were lost in the clouds. There were three rang-es of mountains, and the hig-hest chain was distant upwards of twenty-five leag'ues from the shore. The melancholy condition to which we were reduced* neither allowed us to spend some time in visiting- this beautiful country^ which by all appearances was rich and fertile^ nor to stand to the westward in search of a passag'e to the south of New Guinea^ which mig-ht open to us a new and short route to the Moluccas by way of the Gulph of Carpentaria. Nothing*; indeed^ was more probable than the existence of such a passag-e.^t Boug-ainville^ it may be mentioned^ was not aware of the previous discovery of Torres^ which indeed was not published to the world until after our illustrious navig-ator Cook^ in August^ 1770^ had * They were beginning to run short of provisions, and the salt meat was so bad that the men preferred such rats as they could catch. It even became necessary to prevent the crew from eating the leather about the rigging and elsewhere in the ship. -|- Voyage autour du Mond par la Fregate du Roi La Boudeuse et la Flute I'Etoile en 1766-1769, p. 258. See also the chart of the Louisiade given there, which, however, docs not correspond very closely with the text. 172 CAPTAIN EDWARDS. confirmed the existence of such a strait by passing* from east to west between the shores of Austraha and New Guinea. The Boudeuse and Etoile were eng-aged in work- ing* to windward along- this new land (as it was thoug-ht to be) until the 26th^ when^ having doubled its eastern pointy to which the significant name of Cape DeHverance was given^ they were enabled to bear away to the N.N.E. The name of Gulph of the Louisiade was bestowed by Bougainville upon the whole of the space thus traversed by him^ extending between Cape DeHverance and that por- tion of (what has since been determined to be) the coast of New Guinea of which he gives so glowing a description^ and calls the Cul de Sac de TOrangerie upon his chart. The next addition to our knowledge of these shores was made in August^ 1791; by Captain Edwards in H.M.S. Pandora^ shortly before the wreck of that vessel in Torres Strait; ^\ hen returning from Tahiti with the mutineers of the Bounty. In the pubhshed narrative of that V03^age the following brief account is given. '' On the 23rd; saw land; which we sup- posed to be the LouisiadC; a cape bearing north-east and by east. We called it Cape Hodne}'. Another contiguous to it was called Cape Hood : and a moun- tain between theni; we named Mount Clarence. After passing Caj)e Hood; the land appears lower; and to trench away about north-west; forming* a deep bay; and it may be doubted whether it joins CAPTAINS BLIGH AND POUTLOCK. 170 New Guinea or not."* The positions assigned to two of these places^ which subsequent experience has shewn it is difficult to identify^ are Cape Rodney . Lat. 10° 3' 32" S. . Long. 147o 45' 45''E. Cape Hood . Lat. 9« 58' 6" S. . Long. 147*^ 22' 50"E.t In the following- year^ Captains Bligh and Port- lock^ in the Providence and Assistance^ conveying bread-fruit plants from Tahiti to the West Indies^ saw a portion of the south-east coast of New Guinea^ when on their way to pass through Torres Strait. A line of coast extending from Cape Eodney to the westward and northward about eighty miles^ the latter half with a continuous line of reef running parallel with the coast^ is laid down in a chart by Flinders^ j: as having been ^^seen from the Provi- dence's masthead^ Aug. 80th^ 1792." The northern portion of the Louisiade Archipelag-o was yet unknown to Europeans^ and for almost all the knowledge which we even now possess regarding it^ we are indebted to the expedition under the com- mand of Rear-Admiral Bruny d'Entrecasteaux^ who; on June llth^ 1793^ with La Recherche and * Voyage round the world in His Majesty's frigate Pandora, performed under the direction of Capt. Edwards, in the years 1790, 1791, and 1792. By Mr. G. Hamilton, late surgeon of the Pandora, p. 100. t Ibid. p. 1G4. Krnsenstern assumes these longitudes to be 45' too far to the westward, adopting Flinders' longitude of Murray's Islands, which differs by that amount from Captain Edwards'. + Flinders' Voyage to Terra Austrahs. —Atlas. PI. 13. 174 ADMIRAL d'eNTRECASTEAUX. L'Esperance^ during- his voyag'e in search of the unfortunate La Perouse, came in sio*ht of Rossel Island. The hills of that island were enveloped in clouds^ and the lower parts appeared to be thickly wooded with verdant interspaces. A harbour was supposed to exist in the deep bay on the north coast of Eossel Island^ but access to it was found to be prevented by a line of breakers extending^ to the westward as far as the eye could reach. D'Entre- casteaux passed Piron's Island^ which he named^ as well as various others^ and on St. Aig*nan^s observed several huts^ and the first inhabitants of the Louisiade whom they had seen^ for^ at Renard's Isles^ a boat sent close in to sound^ had observed no indications of natives^ althoug'h smoke was after- wards seen rising* from the largest of the gToup. At the Bonvouloir Islands^ they had the first com- munication with the natives^ who came off in a very larg*e canoe and several others which approached near enoug'h for one of the officers of L^Esj)erance to swim off to them. The natives shewed much timidity and could not be induced to come on board the frig-ate. Some sweet potatoes and bananas were g-iven in return for various presents. No arms were seen among- them^ and these people did not appear to understand the use of iron.* The re- mainder of the voyag-e does not require further * Voyage de [Bruny] d'Eiitrecasteaux envoye a la recherclie de la Perouse. Redige par M. de Rossel, ancien Capitaiue de Vais- scau, torn. i. p. 405, et seq. See also Atlas. M. RUALT COUTANCE. 175 notice here^ as the Dentrecasteaux Isles of the charts belono- to the north-east coast of Ncav Guinea. In June 1793^ Messrs. Bampton and Alt^ in the Eng'hsh merchant ships Hormuzeer and Chesterfield^ g*ot embayed on the south-east coast of New Guinea^ and after in vain seeking* a passag"e out to the north-east^ Avere forced to abandon the attempt and make their way to the westward^ throug'h Torres Strait^ which they were no less than seventy-three days in clearing. Among* other hydrog-rnphical results^ was the discovery of larg'e portions of the land forming* the north-west shores of this bay^ extendino' from Bristow Island to the northward and eastward for a distance of 1:20 miles. In 1804^ M. Bualt Coutance^ commanding- the French privateer L'Adele^ made several discoveries on the south-east coast of New Guinea which were recorded by Freycinet^ from the MS. journal of Coutance^ in the history of Bandings voyag'e.* A portion of this is unquestionably the land seen by Captain Bligh in 1792^ — but in addition detached portions of the shores of the g'reat big-ht of the south-east coast Avere seen^ as in the neig-hbourhood of Freshwater Bay and elsewhere. Mr. Bristow_, the master of an Eng-lish merchant * Voyage de decouvertes aux Terres Australes, execute sur les corvettes Le Geographe, Le Naturaliste, et la goelette La Casua- rina — pendant les annees 1801-4, sous le commandement du Capitaine de vaisseau N. Baudin. Redige par jM. Louis Freycinet. Navigation et Geographie, p. 462, and Atlas, pi. 1. 170 CAPT. DUMONT d'uRVILLE. vessel^ visited the northern part of the Louisiade Archipelag'o in 1800^ but added nothing- of conse- quence to our knowledg-e of the gToup^ although various islands were named anew_, as if discoveries of his own. His Satisfaction Island is clearly Kos- seFs^ and Eruption Island is St. Aig-nan's of D'En- trecasteaux.* Since Boug'ainville's voyag^e the southern shores of the Louisiade remained unvisited until the year 1840^ when Captain Dumont d'Urville^ with the French corvettes L' Astrolabe and La Zelee^ during* his last voyage round the world^ determined upon attempting' their exploration. On May 23rd^ the expedition (coming* from the eastward)^ rounded Adele Island and Cape Deliverance^ at the distance of about twenty miles. Next morning*^ the thick- ness of the weather prevented them from clearly distinguishing' the features of the land. They steered towards South-east Island^ but found close approach prevented by an immense continuous reef^ supposed to be part of that seen on the previous da}^ to the southward of Rossel Island. On Conde's Peninsula^ some natives and a small village Avere observed. In the eveninof a lono' line of islands (the Cah'ados group)^ appeared to the north^ and the reef; which before had been continuous^ with the exception of some small openings^ now existed only as a few isolated patches. D'Urville stood off to * See Kiuscnstcrn's Recueil de Memoires Ilydrographiques, &c p. 154. CAPTAIN DUMONT d'uRVILLE. 177 sea for the nig-ht^ and next mornino- passed close to some low woody islets (Montemont)^ enclosed by a reef stretching- to the eastward^ and supporting- upon it many scattered islands covered with yerdm*e. Boug-ainville's chart was found of very little assist- ance 5 in the evening'^ however^ they recog'nized the low wooded isle which he had called Ushant. Several hig-h rocks (Teste Isles) in sig'ht when they stood oiF for the nio-ht served next mornino- as a connecting' point. On the 2Gth^ a croAvd of small islands^ mostly inhabited; were seen at a short distance oiF^ and in the back gTOund some hig-h mountain summits were visible. Approaching* more closely^ D'Urville ob- served numerous channels interseetino- the coast which they appeared to divide into a multitude of islands^ and it seemed doubtful whether the land seen belonged to the Louisiade or to New Guinea. On the 27th; the two ships reached the Cul de sac de rOrang-eric; — the appearance of the land at this place was considered to '^ agree perfectly with the pompous description" of Boug-ainville. D'Ur^ille would willingly have searched for an anchorage herC; but sickness prevented him from delaying much longer on this coast. Many canoes had been seen during' the day^ and one ^^ith six men at length came off, followed b}' some smaller ones^ each car- rying two or three people. The natives could not be induced to venture on board; and for a long time hesitated to receive some presents conveyed to them VOL. I. N 178 CAPTAIN DUMONT D'uKVILLE. on a plank^ in return for cocoa-nuts^ a stone axe^ and some shells. These natives appeared to be unarmed ; by sig'ns they invited the Frenchmen to visit them on shore. D'Urville was now anxious to determine whether J as represented by his charts^* a passag-e existed between this portion of the '' Louisiade of Bougainville^'' and what w^as then considered to be the south-east extremity of New Guinea^ in the neig-hbourhood of Cape Rodney. Next day^ how- ever (28th)^ a hig'h chain of mountains was seen to occupy the space assigned to the supposed passag'e. On the 29th^ a barrier reef was found extending* to the eastward in the direction of the coast line ; they were unable clearly to identify Cape Rodney and Point Hood^ of the English charts. In the evening* D'Urville saw a chain of hio-h mountains which he named Mount Astrolabe^ and a w^ell marked head- land (Cape Passy) beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the northward. The expedition now shaped a com-se for Torres Strait^ having in seven days made a ^^ running survey'' extending over a space of 450 miles in lengthy without anchoring or communicating* with the inhabitants.f * This matter had beea discussed by the Russian Admiral Krusenstern ; see " Recueil de Memoires Hydrographiques pour servir d' analyse et d'expUcation a 1' Atlas de I'Ocean Pacifique,'* p. 60. Also in his Atlas, a general chart of the Pacific Ocean^ and two others of New Guinea, and the Louisiade Archipelago, published in 1824. f Voyage au Pole Sud et dans I'Oceanie sur les corvettes CAPTAIN F. P. BLACKWOOD. 179 During" his survey of the northern and eastern entrances of Torres Strait^ Captain F. P. Bkck- wood^ in H.M.S. Fly^ spent two months in 1845^ upon the south-east coast of New Guinea^ 140 miles of which^ including- that part seen by Bampton and Alt in 1793, was surveyed as completely as the time and means would permit. This country pre- sented a gTeat sameness of aspect j low muddy shores covered at first with mangToves^ and^ further back^ with dense forests^ were found to be intersected by numerous channels of fresh water^ the mouths^ there is reason to suppose^ of one or more larg-e rivers^ of which this g'reat extent of country is the delta. Great mud banks^ extending' from ten to twenty miles out to sea^ prevented approach except in the boats. Several of these channels Avere entered by the surve^ang* parties^ and one (Aird River)^ was ascended by Captain Blackwood to the distance of twenty miles from its mouth. Many villa g'es were seen scattered alono* the coast and on the river banks. The natives^ apparently closely resembling- the Torres Strait Islanders^ appeared to be a savag-e and warlike race, and refused to have any friendly intercourse with the white men, whose boats they attempted to cut off on various occasions. They seemed to be perfectly naked, and their principal L' Astrolabe et la Zelee pendant les annees 1837-1840. Sous le commandement de M. J. Diimont d'Urville. Histoire du Voyage, torn. ix. p. 208—215. Atlas Hydrographiqiie, PL 1. N 2 180 LIEUTENANT C. B. YULE. weapons were observed to be bows and arrows and wooden sword-like clubs.* In the following" year^ a further addition to the survey of the south-east coast of New Guinea was made by Lieut. C. B. Yule^ while in command of H.M. schooners Bramble and Castlereag-h. This survey was commenced at Cape Possession^ and continued to the westward and northward as far as Cape Blackwood^ where the Fly's work ended^ a distance equal to two degrees of longitudcf Many larg-e river mouths were observed^ the fresh water on one occasion extendino- two or three miles out to sea. The countr}- had ceased to present the low monotonous appearance shewn to the westward^ and had become more broken with wooded hills^ and on the extreme east, rano-es of lofty mountains were seen in the distance \ one of these (Mount Yule) attains an elevation of 10^046 feet. Landing* was attempted only once^ on which occasion the whole party^ — their two boats having* been capsized in the surf, and their ammunition destroyed^ — were set upon by a larg'e body of natives and plundered of ever}"- thing*^ even to their clothes^ but not otherwise injured^ althoug'h completel}^ at the mercy of these savao-es. In company with the Bramble we sailed from * Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. Fly, com- manded by Captain F. P. Blackwood, R.N. by J. B. Jukes, Naturalist to the Expedition, vol. i. p. 282, &c. t See Admiralty Chart, No. 1914. ARRIVE AT THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. 181 Moreton Bay for the Louisiade on May 26th. Next day it beg* an to blow fresh^ commencing* at south-east and coming- up to east^ and on the 28th the wind had increased to a heavy g'ale from E.S.E. to E. On the following* morning* the g'ale broke^ the A\'ind having* suddenly fallen and shifted round from E. to N.E. and N.W. by W. until it became variable^ and at nig*ht died away altog*ether. On June 3rd we picked up the south-east trade-wind in lat. 20"" 8' S. j and next day and those following* until we made the land^ having* left the beaten track from Sydney to the outer passages leading* to Torres Strait^* w^e hauled on a Avind at nig'ht so as to avoid going* over unexplored ground. No reefs^ however^ were seen between Moreton Bay and the Louisiade. On June 10th (our noon position of that day being lat. 11° 88' S. and long. 154*^ 17' E.), at daylight^ high land was seen extending from N. to N.W.^ distant about twentj'-five miles. It proved to be the largest He du Sud Est of D'Urville's chart, and Eossel Island, the latter forming* the eastern termination of the Louisiade Archipelago. Next day we fell in with the Bramble in the neighbourhood of Cape Deliverance of the English chart (by Lam'ie), her rendezvous in case of separation 3 Ave had parted company during the late gale, in Avliich she lost her jib-boom and stern-boat. The whole of * See a very useful chart of the Coral Sea, constructed by Mr. J. O. Evaus, formerly master of H.M.S. Fly. 182 FIND ACCESS PEEVENTED BY vi REEF. June 12th was spent in working- to windward to weather the eastern end of Rossel Island^ — Cape Dehveranee of Bougainville^ — the barrier reef to the southward of the two larg-e islands in sig*ht pre- venting' us from closely approaching* the land from that quarter. June ISth, — Having* g-ained a g'ood offing-^ we bore up at daylig'ht^ and stood in for Rossel Island with the Bramble a-head. We passed at a distance Ad^le Island (so named after Coutance's ship)^ low and woody^ situated at the eastern extreme of the barrier reef surrounding* Bossel Island^, at a variable distance from the land. The southern portion of this g-reat coral reef here makes a sharp turn round the islet^ and runs back ten miles to connect it with Rossel Island^ where it loses the character of a barrier^ becomes narrow and fring-ing* and almost disappears for a time. Passing* Cape Deliverance* and 2'ettino' into smooth water on the northern side of Rossel Island^ we ran along* it at a distance from the shore of about two miles and a half. Rossel Island (named after one of D'Entre- casteaux' officers) is 22 miles in leng'th from east to west^ and 104 in g-reatest width ', it is hig*h and * As the longitude of Cape Deliverance varies considerably in different charts, its determination by the three best authorities may here be given : — D'Entrecasteaux places it in long. 154*' 26' E. of Greenwich. D'UrviUe . 154" 26' do. Owen Stanley . 154^20' do. BOSSEL ISLAND. 18G mountainous^ and thickly wooded^ with occasional larg'e^ clear^ g'rassy patches. Towards the western end the hills become lower and more detached^ hut present the same features. The mountain ridg^es^ one of which^ hut not the hig'hest elevation (which was obscured by clouds)^ is 2522 feet in heiglit — form sharp narrow crests and occasional peaks^ but the outline is smooth and the rock nowhere exposed^ even the steepest ridg*es being* covered with veg-eta- tion. Some of the trees appeared to be of g-reat dimensions^ others were tall and straight^ branching- only near the top^ and many^ probably Melaleuca leucodendrum — were conspicuous from the whiteness of their trunks. Larg'e g-roves of cocoa-palms scattered about from the water's edg-e to half way up the hills^ formed a pleasing- break in the sombre g-reen of the forest scenery. The shores are either bordered with mang-roves with an occasional sandy beach^ or clothed with the usual jungie of the island. As Ave advanced to the westward the reef g-radually extended out from the island with a short space inside, and this appearance continued for several miles^ until^ upon the land trending* away to the south-west; the line of reef left it and ran out to the westward as far as the eye could reach^ in an apparently unbroken line of surf This is Eossel Beef of the charts along- which we ran for* 35 * It extends 17 miles beyond the westernmost point of Rossel Island. 184 ITS INHABITANTS. miles^ sounding occasionally^ but although within a mile of its edg-e^ no bottom was got with upwards of 100 fathoms of line. From the mast- head ^se could see the surf of the southern border of tliis great reef^ the space between being a lagoon of apparently navigable water. At the western extremity of the reef there appeared to be a clear openings but the day was too far advanced to admit of entering it to search for an anchorage^ and the ship was hove to for the night, Eossel Island^ judging from the little we saw of it^ appears to be well inhabited. The first natives seen were a party of ^ye men^ apparently naked, who came out upon the beach from a gTove of cocoa- nut trees_, and stood gazing at the unusual sigiit to them of two vessels passing by. Opposite a pretty creek-like harbour^ the windings of which we could trace back a little way among the hills^ several canoes of various sizes were seen^ each with an outrigger on one side^ and one of them fiuniished with a large mat-sail of an oblong- shape^ rounded at the ends. The people^ of whom there were usually about six or seven in each canoe^ appeared to be eno^ao-ed in fishino- in the shoal water. One man in a very small canoe was bailing it out with a large melon-shell so intently that he appeared to take no notice whatever of the ship which passed within a quarter of a mile of him. We saw many huts close to the beach^ usually three or four together^ forming small villages. They appeared to PIRON ISLAND. 185 be long' and low^ resting' on the ground^ with an opening' at each end^ and an arched roof thatched with palm-leaves. The most picturesque situations Avere chosen for these hamlets in the shade of the cocoa-nut trees^ and about them we could see numbers of children^ but no w^omen "\^^ere made out^ and most of the men were fishing* on the reef. At one place we observed what appeared to be a portion of cultivated g'round 3 a cleared sloping' bank above the shore exhibited a succession of small terraces^ with a bush-like plant g'roAving' in reg'ular rows. June 14:tJi. — In the morning' we found ourselves so far to leeward of the opening' seen last nighty with a strong' breeze and a considerable head sea^ that the attempt to work up for it was abandoned^ and we kept away to the westward to look for an anchorag'e. We then ran along' the northern side of Pii'on* Island^ which is five miles in lengthy and one and a half in breadth^ of moderate elevation^ and sloping' g'ently towards each extreme. It exhibits a range of low grassy hills^ with smooth rounded outline^ a straggling* belt of wood — often mang'roves — along the shore^ patches of brush here and there in the hollows^ and on the hill tops_, scattered along' the ridge^ a few solitary tall bushy trees with silvery-looking' foliag'e. The bright g'reen of the tall g-rass g'ave a pleasing' aspect to the whole island^ larg-e tracts of which * Piron was draughtsman to D'Eiitrecasteaux's Expedition. 186 ENTER CORAL HAVEN. aiDpeared like fields of unripe gTain. We saw few natives^ the opposite^ or southern shore^ being* pro- babl}^ that chiefly inhabited. Close approach to Pu'on Island was prevented by a second barrier reef^ which we followed to the N.N.W. for several miles beyond the end of the island^ anxiously looking* out for an opening* into the fine expanse of pale blue water seen to extend to the southward as far as the larg-e south-east island.* At length an opening* in the reef was observed^ and the ship hauled off and hove to^ while Lieut. Yule examined it in one of his boats. In the afternoon the Bramble having* made the sig*nal ^^ passag*e clear but narrow/' was directed to enter^ and we followed her through a fine opening* 400 yards wide^ and were immediately in sounding*s^ which 111 fathoms of hue had failed to procm*e only a short distance outside. After vStanding* to the southward for two miles we anchored in 15 fathoms water. The name of Coral Haven was bestowed upon this new harbour. We remained here all next day^ during* which the natives in their canoes came off to the Bramble^ and one or two of the boats away sounding*^ but would not venture to approach the ship. June l^tli, — The ship was moved in one and a half miles to the southward^ towards the land, and anchored in ten fathoms^ close to a reef covered at high water^ and about a mile distant from a small bank of dead coral and sand ; the former of these * This is 41 miles loug, and 10^ in greatest width. PIG ISLAND. 187 was selected by Capt. Stanley as the startino* point of the survey^ and on the latter mag-netical observa- tions were made by Lieutenant Dayman. In the afternoon I took a passage in a boat sent with a party to Pig* Island — the name afterwards g-iven to that nearest us — to search for water^ and endeavour to communicate with the natives. A party of eig-ht men^ fishing- upon the reef surround- ing- a small islet^ allowed us to approach within a short distance^ but upon our attempting- to leave the boat they became alarmed and retreated to their canoe in which they paddled off in g-reat haste to the landing- place under a small villag-e in sig-ht of the ship. This consisted of three or four long- barn-like huts^ raised from the g-round on posts. A larg-e villag-e was also seen on Joannet Island^ situated^ like the other^ on the brow of a hill in a commanding- position. Five of our party landed about half a mile from where the canoe had disappeared^ appa- rently in some creek of a mang-rove swamp ; while walking- along- the muddy shore we were met by about a dozen natives^ who gTadually fell back as we approached. Seeing- them apparently afraid of our number and weapons^ — they themselves being- un- armed; — I left my g-un behind_, and^ advancing- alone^ holding- up a g-reen branch in each hand^ was allowed to come up to them. They were apparently in a state of great agitation^ and very suspicious of our intentions. The spokesman of the party Avas much lighter in colour than the others^ and I at first 188 COMMUNICATE WITH fancied he spoke some Malay dialect fi^om the simi- larity in sound and intonation of his words^ nor was it until I had used some of the commonest and least chang-eable Malay words — as those meaning- iire^ water^ &;c. — without being' understood^ that I was convinced of my mistake. Two others of our party were allowed to come up one by one^ and some triflinof articles were exchano-ed for various orna- ments. Still they would not suffer any one with a g'un to approach^ althoug*h anxious to entice us singly and unarmed to their village towards which they were gradually leading us^ and Avhere they could be reinforced by another party^ whom we saw w^atching- us on the edge of the mangroves. But it was not considered expedient to waste more time upon the natives^ so we turned back and walked along- the eastern side of the island one and a half miles^ Avith the boat in company outside. A small stream of fi^esh water was found^ not sufficient^ however^ for om* wantS; nor was the place suitable for the approach of boats. The rock on Pig- Island^ where exposed at some of the points^ is mica slate^ soft and splintery in many places^ with frequent veins of quartz. The hills^* although often running* in ridges^ have a rounded outline^ and the soil on the smooth grassy places — comprising three-fourths of the island — is composed of disintegrated rock mixed with pieces of undecomposed quartz_, any considerable * The highest part of the island; measured up to the tops of the trees, is 479 feet. NATIVES OF PIG ISLAND. 189 accumulation of veg'etable mould being* probably- prevented by the lieav}^ rains. The grass is very luxuriant without being* rank ; it was not known to me^ for^ unlike most of the other plants^ I had not met with it in Australia. Indeed the frequency of the cocoa-nut palm was the only non-Malayo- Aus- tralian feature in the veo*etation. As no botanist had previously visited the Louisiade^ a few of the principal plants may be mentioned. These are Gnilandina BonduCj Tournefortia argenteoj Mo- rinda citrlfoliaj Paritium Tiliaceum^ Casuarina cquisetifoUa^ and Clerodendrum mernie^* among- the trees and shrubs^ which were often overg-rown with Lygodium microijliyllum^ and Disemma coccuiea. The only birds seen were the sacred kingfisher^ the sulphur-crested cockatoo^ and the Australian crow. The shells on the reef were all Australian likewise^ but under some decaying^ l^g's^ on the beach^ I found single species of Auricula^ Tnmcatella, Scarahis^ and Melamjpus, The men we saw to-day were dark copper coloured^ with the exception of the spokesman^ whose skin ^\'as of a light brownish yellow hue. The hair in nearly all Avas frizzled out into a mop, in some instances of prodigious size ; the light coloured man, however, had his head closely shaved.t The physiognomy * These are all common to Polynesia, the Indian Archipelago, and tropical Australia. t This allowed us to observe its contour, which was remarkable. The forehead was narrow and receding, appearing as if artificially 190 THEIR APPEARANCE. varied much; some had a savag-e^ even ferocious aspect. The nose was narrower and more promi- nent^ the mouth smaller^ the lips thinner^ the eyes more distant^ the eyebrows less overhang-ing-^ the forehead hig'her^ but not broader^ than in the Australian^ with whom I natm^ally compared them as the only dark savag*e race which I had seen much of. They used the betel^ or something* hke it^ judg-- ino' from the effect in discolourino- the teeth and giving* a bloody appearance to the saliva ; each man carried his chewing* materials in a small basket^ the lime^ in fine powder^ being* contained in a neat calabash with a stop- per^ and a carved piece of tortoise- shell like a paper- cutter was used to convey it to the mouth. None had the artificial prominent scars on the body pecuhar to the Australians^ or wanted any of flattened, thereby giving great prominence and width to the hinder part of the skull. Altogether this man appeared so different from the rest, that for some time he was supposed to belong to a different class of people, but I afterwards often observed the same configuration of head combined with dark coloured skin and diminutive stature. FIND NATIVES APPARENTLY FRIENDLY. 191 the front teeth^ but the septum of the nose was perforated to admit an ornament of polished shelly pointed and shg-htly turned up at each end. The lobe of the ear was slit^ the hole being- either kept distended by a larg-e plug- of rolled up leaf;, appa- rentl}^ of the banana^ or hung' with thin circular earring's made of the g'round down end of a cone- shell ( Comis millepunctatus) one and a half inches in diameter^ a\ ith a central hole and a sUt leading' to the edg-e. A piece of cloth-like substance^ the dried leaf of the Pandanus or some palm was used by all as a breech cloth^ — it passes between the leg-s and is secured in front and behind to a narrow waist- band. June 17th, — I formed one of the party in the second cutter^ sent in command of Lieut. Simpson^ on a similar mission to that of yesterday. As we passed along- the north side of Pig' Island we saw small groups of natives upon the g-rassy ridg-es watching- the boat; and^ upon our closely approach- ing- the north-west point of the island^ one of them^ whom we recognised as our light- coloured acquaint- ance of yesterday^ came running down to the top of a bank inviting us by gestures to land. Four of our party got on shore with difficulty after a long- wade upon the reef, up to the waist in water^ but^ on ascending the bank^ the " red man/' as we provisionally named him^ retired to a small group of natives who were coming up. Following- them as they o-raduallv fell back in the direction of 192 FIND NATIVES APPAKENTLY FRIENDLY. the villa g*e^ in a short time the two foremost^ Messrs. Huxley and Brierly^* the latter having- laid down his rifle_, were allowed to approach and parley. Meanwliile^ Lieut. Simpson and I remained behind watching' the natives A^*ho quickly sui^rounded the tAvo others^ offering* tortoise-shelly gTeen plantains, and other thing's for barter^ and hustling* them in no very ceremonious way while intent upon sketch- ing*^ and having* to keep their subjects in g*ood humour by treating* them to sundry scraps of extempore melo-dramatic performance. New comers were continually making- their appearance^ and all the party were noAV suddenl}^ observed to have fur- nished themselves with spears^ none of which had been seen at first^ and which had probably been concealed among* the long* g*rass at the spot to which they had led us. These weapons are made of polished cocoa-nut wood^ eig'ht to ten feet long*, sharp at each end, and beautifully balanced, the thickest jiart being* two-fifths of the distance fi^om the point ; one end w^as usually ornamented with a narrow strip of palm leaf, fluttering* in the breeze like a pennon as usually carried. One man was furnished with a two-edg'ed carved and painted in- strument like a sword. Most of these people had their face daubed over with broad streaks of char- coal down the centre and round the e3'es, occasionally varieg-ated vvith white, g-i^dng* them a most forbid- * A talented marine artist who accompanied us upon this and the preceding cruize, as Captain Stanley's guest. 1 I' THEIR SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT AFTERWARDS. 193 ding- aspect. At length a live pig' was broug'ht down from the village^ slung- on a j^ole^ and was purchased for a knife and a handkerchief This was a master stroke of policy^ as the natives well knew that it would take tAvo of us to hear off our prize to the boat^ thus rendering- our little party less formidable. The number of men had been g-radually increasing- until it amounted to about thirty^ all with spears. They were also becoming- more rude and insolent in their behaviour^ and seeing- this I left my post on a hillock^ and joined Simpson to take part in the expected fray. The natives were now evidently bent on mischief, and we fully expected they would not much long-er delay making- an attack^ with the advantag-e of a commanding* position on a hillock which we must descend to return to the boat. At this crisis one of our party discovered that he had lost a pistol from his belt; and attempted to recover it by shewing- another and making- sig'ns evincing- g-reat anxiety to recover the lost weapon. On this there was a g-eneral movement among- the natives^ who beg'an drawing- back into a cluster^ balancing* their spears and talking- to each other very earnestl}'. It being- evident that the pistol had been stolen^ and not dropped accidentally among- the g-rass^ it was also apparent that by attaching- undue impor- tance to its loss our safety mig'ht be supposed to depend upon its possession. We then slowly com- menced our retreat; two in advance carrying- the pig-; and the remainder covering- the retreat. Being- VOL. I. 0 194 REACH THE BOAT. the last of our party^ as I slowly descended the hillock sideways^ watching- every motion of what we mig'ht fairly consider as the enemy^ with spare caps betAveen my teeth^ and a couple of cartridg-es in one hand^ I was in momentary expectation of receiving* a spear or two^ which probably would have been the case^ had I stumbled or turned my back to them for a moment. As we drew back along- the ridg'e and dipped into the first hollow a part}^ of the natives detached themselves from the rest as if to come round upon our flank^ but this fortunately was formed by a steep ascent covered with dense jun- g'le which would have occupied them some time to g'et throug"h. Arriving* at the bank above the boat^ the pig* carriers with their burthen speedily reached the bottom^ all three rolling* down tog'ether. When they were well clear we followed, keeping* a sharp look out behind in case of an}^ advantage being- taken of our position. The boat had g-rounded upon the reef with the falling* tide^ but with some diffi- culty was g*ot afloat^ when we left the place. After rounding* the point we opened a larg*e ba}^ on the west side of the island where we saw the mouth of a small stream pointed out by the natives during* our last interview^ but^ on approaching- within 300 yards^ it was found that boats could not g'et any closer in at low water^ the shore being- everywhere fringed by a reef. This is the most beautiful and sheltered portion of the island^ well wooded^ with a sandy beach^ clumps of cocoa-nut CANOES VISIT THE SHIP. 195 trees^ and a villag'e of four or five huts. We landed on a small islet connected with the south-west point of Pig- Island by a reef^ and strolled about with our g'uns while the boat's crew Avere having* their dinners. Several llegajwdii were seen and one was shot^ — it afterwards proved to be the J/. Duper- reyi, previously known as a native of Port Dorey on the north-west coast of New Guinea. While holding- on to the reef a party of natives, apparently from Brierly Island^ paddled up in a canoe, and^ after some hesitation at first, came alono-gide callino* out kelumai — kehmmij which we conjectured to be their word for iron. For a few trifling* articles we obtained a spear or two, and some cooked yams^ and parted g'ood friends, after which we returned to the ship, having* completed the circuit of the island without finding* a practicable watering* place. June ISth. — Five canoes came off this mornino- with seven or eig'ht natives in each, but apparently not with the intention of bartering*, althoug'h they remained for a short time near the Bramble 3 it was thoug-ht that some allusions were made by them to the pistol stolen yesterday, but this did not appear to be certain. After a while they crossed over to the ship, and from a respectful distance — as if afraid to come closer— used many violent g*esti- culations, talking* vehemently all the while, and repeatedly pointed to the break in the reef by which we had entered Coral Haven, waving* us off at the same time. Oar red friend from Pio- Island o 2 196 NO PASSAGE TO THE EASTWARD. made himself as conspicuous as on former occasions^ and none shouted more loudly or wished to attract more attention to himself. Unfortunately his eloquence was quite thrown away upon us^ nor had his threatening* g-estures the desired effect of inducing* us to leave the place and proceed to sea. J^lne 20th. — I returned to the ship after a short cruize in the pinnace sent awa}^ with Lieutenant Simpson to ascertain whether a passag*e for the ship to the eastward existed between Piron Island and South-east Island. Independently of numerous detached coral patches^ the channel was found to he completely blocked up by a reef stretching* across from one island to the other^ beyond which^ sepa- rated by an extensive tract of shoal water^ a heavy surf was breaking* on what is probably an outer barrier. Man}^ snakes were seen on the surface of the water^ and large shoals of skipjacks (Carcmx) playing* about in long* extended lines occasionally presented the appearance of a breaking* reef. The fish were attended by flocks of terns and noddies^ the former the beautiful Sterna melanauchen. June 21st, — Landed on the neighbouring* Obser- vation Reef^ and spent some hours there searching* for shells^ but nearly all were Torres Strait species. The reef is marg-ined with blocks of coral^ but the centre is mostly smooth and covered with sand part of which dries at low water j the rise and fall^ ascertahied by a tide-pole set up here^ was only NATIVE MODE OF FISHING. 197 four feet. I had a g'ood opportunity of witnessing- the mode of fishing- with the seine practised by the natives of the Louisiade. One of these nets^ appa- rently of the usual dimensions_, measured 130 feet in lengthy with a depth of a yard only. The upper border is supported^ when in the water^ by nume- rous small thin triangular floats of lig-ht wood^ and the lower marg-in is strung* with a series of perfo- rated shells— chiefly single valves of Area scapha — serving" as sinkers. The cordag-e is of a white colour^ very lig-ht^ and neatly laid up^ the meshes are an inch wide^ and the centre of the net ends in a purse-like bag*. A party of eig-ht men poled along* the shallow marg-in of the reef in their canoe^ using- the seine at intervals. When a shoal of fish is seen^ three men lay hold of the net and jump out into the water^ — it is run out into a semicircle^ the men at the extremes moving* onwards with one person in advance on each side splashing* the water with long" poles and stones to drive the fish toAvards the centre. The canoe now makes a sweep and comes up to the opening*^ when the net is closed in upon it^ and hauled in-board with its contents. This mode of fishing- would appear to be practised also at some of the islands of Polynesia^ for similar seines are exhibited in the ethnolog-ical g'allery of the British Museum fi^om the Feejees and elsewhere. In addition to the seine^ we had occasionally ob- served in canoes alongside the ship a small scoop- net with a very long* handle^ and once procured a 198 POISONOUS FISH. fishing" hook of singular construction. This last is represented by the right- hand figure of the accom- panying woodcut. It is seven inches in leno-th, made of some hard wood^ with an arm four and a half inches long^ turning up at a sharp angle^ and tipped with a slightly curved barb of tortoise-shell projecting horizontally inwards an inch and a half. During the afternoon one of the crew of a boat upon the reef, while incautiously handling a frog- fish (Batrac'hvs) which he had found under a stone^ received two punctures at the base of the thumb from the sharp dorsal spines partially concealed by the skin. Immediately severe pain was produced which quickly increased until it became intolerable^ and the man lay down and rolled about in agony. He was taken on board the ship in a state of great weakness. The hand was considerably swollen_, with the pain shootings up the arm to the axilla^ but the glands there did not become affected. The pulse fell to as low as 40 beats in the minute^ with a constant desire to vomit. Large dozes of opium in the course of time afforded relief^ but a fortnight elapsed before the man was again fit for duty. June 23rd, — I accompanied Mr. Brown^ the SEARCH FOR A WATERING PLACE. 199 master, who was sent to examine and report upon a watering* place said to have been found a day or two ag*o on South-east Island^ about four miles north from the ship. We found the coast thereabouts fring'ed with mang^roves^ a g'ap in which^ margined by forest trees^ indicated the place which we were in search of. The ebb tide was scarcely beginning* to make^ yet a narrow band of shing*le off the entrance of the creek had barely water enougii upon it to allow the boat to cross. Beyond the bar we g*ot into deep water, and after pulling* up for 300 yards found it only brackish. Our further prog'ress^ how- ever^ was impeded by the narroAving* of the creek^ which besides was blocked up with dead trees and some rocks in its bed a few yards ahead of us. The fresh water being* thus unattainable without much trouble^ and the bar at the entrance adding* to the difficulty of watering* the ship there^ we turned back to search elsewhere. While standing* alono- shore to the eastward, opposite an opening* in the low hills behind the coast we observed another breach in the mang-roves backed by trees of a different description^ and thoug*ht it w^orthy of examination. Tacking* inshore we found a small big*ht^ with shoal water^ on a bank of mud extend- ing* rigiit across^ beyond which the entrance of a creek fring'ed with mang*roves was discovered. Our hopes were still further raised^ when^ ascending* about 200 yards, with a depth of two and three fathoms, the surface water was found to be quite 200 ROUND ISLAND. drinkable. While passings the entrance on our return a g^reat lizard^ about five feet in leng'th^ rushed out from an adjacent swamp across a narrow strip of sandy beach and plung-ed into the water after receiving' an ineffectual charg'e of small shot. The boat's crew pronounced it confidently to have been a young* alligator^ but^ although in a very likely haunt for these animals^ it was probably only a monitor. We then crossed over to Round Island^ small^ uninhabited^ 230 feet in heig'ht^ thickly covered with trees and underwood^ and connected on the eastern side with the reef running* across to Piron Island. The rock here is still mica slate^ varying* much in texture and composition^ often hig'hly ferrug*inous ; the strata run E.S.E. and W.N.W. with a northerly dip of about 45°. June 24:th. — In the course of the day no less than seven canoes with natives^ including- several women and children^ came off to the ship boldly and Avith- out hesitation^ as if confidence were now established. At one time we had five canoes alono-side, with a brisk and noisy traffic g'oing* on. The people parted very readil}" with their weapons and orna- ments^ also cocoa-nuts in abundance^ and a few yams and bananas^ for strips of calico and pieces of iron hoop. Axes^ however^ were more prized than any other article_, and the exhibition of one was certain to produce g*reat eag'erness to procure it^ amidst much shouting* and cries of kelmnai ! The NATIVES SHEW THIEVISH PROPENSITIES. 201 purpose to which they apphed the iron hoop we found w^as to substitute it for the pieces of a hard g-reen stone (nephrite) in the heads of their axes and adzes. The one iig'ured on page 198 represents the usual form of these instruments. The V-shaped handle is a sing-le piece of wood^ and the stone^ pre- viously g-round down to a fine edg*e^ is fixed in a cleft at the end of the short arm^ and firmly secured by cordage. This axe is usually carried by beino' hooked over the left shoulder with the handle crossing* the breast diagonall}^ Among our visitors to-day I noticed two who had large w^hite patches on the skin^ as if caused by some leprous complaint^ — one man had lost his nose^ and in addition was affected with elephantiasis of the left foot. After leaving us two of the canoes paddled up to the tide pole on the neighbouring reef^ and before a boat could reach them^ the natives managed to secure the pigs of iron ballast with which it was moored. They communicated with two canoes^ coming from the direction of Piron Island^ which soon afterwards came under the stern. As one of the stolen pigs was seen partiall}^ concealed in the bow of one of the last comers the jolly boat was manned to recover it^ when the canoes left in great haste with the boat in chase. As the boat approached a cocoa-nut was thrown overboard from the canoe^ as if to cause delay by stopping- to pick it up^ but^ the intended effect not being produced^ the stolen 202 CANOES OF CORAL HAVEN DESCRIBED. ballast also was thrown out^ when the boat of course returned. By Caj)tain Stanley's orders two musket shots were fired over the canoes^ while about 300 yards distant^ to shew that althoug-h in fancied security they were still within reach. The splash of the first bullet caused them to paddle off in g-reat haste^ and^ when they ag-ain stopped^ a second shot^ striking' the water be3^ond the canoes^ sent them off to the shore at their utmost speed. With a sing'le exception^ to be afterwards noticed^ the canoes seen by us in Coral Haven are of the following' description. The usual lenglh is about twenty-five feet^ and one of this size carries fi'om seven to ten people. The body is formed b}" the hollow^ed out trunk of a tree^ tapering* and rising* at each end^ short and rounded behind^ but in front run out into a long* beak. A stout plank on each side raises the canoe a foot^ forming* a g*unwale secured b}^ knees^ the seam at the junction being* payed over with a black pitch-like substance. This g-unwale is open at the stern^ the ends not being* connected^ but the bow is closed by a raised end- board fancifully carved and painted in fi'ont of which a crest-like wooden ornament fits into a g*roove running* along* the beak. This fig*ure head^ called tahurcij is elaborate^ cut into various de- vices^ painted red and white^ and decorated with white eg*g*-shells and feathers of the cassowary and bird of paradise. The bow and stern also are more or less profusely ornamented with these shells^, CANOES OF CORAL HAVEN DESCllIBED. 203 which hesides are strung- about other parts of the caiioe^ usually in pairs. An outrig-ger extends along- nearly the whole length of the left or port side of the canoe. In its construction there are employed from six to eig*ht poles^ two inches in diameter^ -which rest ag'ainst one side of the body of the canoe and are secured there^ then passing' out through the opposite side about five feet_, inclining slightly upwards at the same time^ are connected at the ends by lashing to a long stout pole completing' the strong fi'ame work re- quired for the support of the float. This last is a long and narrow log of a soft and ver}" light wood (probably a cotton tree) rising a little and pointed at each end so as to offer the least possible resist- ance to the water. Four sticks passing* diagonally downwards from each of the transverse poles are sunk into the float and firmly secure it. A strip of the inner portion of the outrig'ger frame is converted into a platform by long* sticks laid lengthways close to each other^ — here the sails^ masts^ poles^ spears^ and other articles are laid when not in use. The paddles vary slightl}^ in form but are usually about four feet in lengthy with a slender handle and a pointed lance-shaped blade. The number of meii able to use the j^addles is regulated in each canoe b}^ that of supporting outrigger poles^ the end of each of which^ in conjunction with one of the knees supporting the gunwale^ serves as a seat. One sitter at each end^ being clear of the outrigger^ is able to use his paddle on either side as requisite in steering^ but 204 CANOES OF CORAL HAVEN DESCRIBED. the others paddle on the rig-ht or starboard side only. The man seated at the stern closes with his body the opening- between the ends of the raised g'unwale and thus keeps out the spray or wash of the sea. Still they require to bail frequently^ using* for this purpose the larg-e shell of the Melo Uthiojnca, In calms and lig-ht airs these canoes of Coral Haven may be overtaken without difficulty by a fast- pulling' ship's boat^ but on g'oing- to windward with a moderate breeze and a little head sea they appeared to have the advantag'e. The sails are from twelve to fifteen feet in length and a yard wide — made of coarse mattino- of the leaf of the cocoa-nut tree stretched between two slender poles. The mast is stepped with an outward inclination into one of three or four holes in a narrow shifting- board in the bottom of the canoe^ and is secured near the top to a slender stick of similar leng-th made fast to the outside part of the outrig-g-er 3 a second pole is then erected stretching* diag'onally outwards and secured to the outer one near its centre. Ag'ainst the framework thus formed the sails are stuck up on end side by side to the number of three or four^ occasionally even ^ye^ and kept in their places by long" sticks placed transversely^ their ends as well as those of the mast being- sharpened to serve as skewers which in the first instance secure the sails. While under sail either the bow or stern of the canoe may be foremost^ this being- reg-ulated by the necessity of having- the outrig-g-er on the weather side^ unless in a very lig'ht wind. From the sail CANOES OF COKAL HAVEN DESCRIBED. 205 being' placed so far forward these canoes do not lay up close to the wmd^ but when g'omg" free consider- able speed may be obtained. Among" the canoes which visited the ship one was of a quite different construction from the rest and resembled some of those which we had seen while passing- along the northern side of Ilossel Island. It contained seven men^ and came from JLJLJL-J_-J__Ji the eastward — probably from Piron Island. The bodv of a canoe of this class is formed like the other^ or more common kind^ of the hollowed out trunk of a large tree, tapering* to a point and rising* slig'htly at the ends^ which^ however^ are alike and covered over by a close-fitting- piece of wood^ each end being- thus converted into a hollow cone. The sides are raised by a plank two feet hig-h and end boards forming- a kind of long- box, with the seams pitched over. One side is provided with an outrig'g-er simi- 200 CANOES OF ROSSEL ISLAND DESCRIBED. lar to that already described, and on the other is a small stag-e^ level with the g'unwale^ six feet long*^ planked over^ and projecting* four feet or thereabouts. The mast is a standing- one stepped into a board in the bottom^ — it is lashed to a stout transverse pole^ and is further supported by two fore and aft stays. The halliards reeve throug-h a hole in a pro- jecting* arm a foot long^ at the masthead. But the sail forms the most curious feature in the whole affair.* It measures about fifteen feet in width by eig'ht in depth and is made of rather fine matting* * The annexed illustration represents this kind of sail, — it was not however taken from the canoe in question, but on a subse- quent occasion, and at another part of the Louisiade Archipelago. WATERING-CEEEK ON SOUTH-EAST ISLAND. 207 stretched between two yards and rounded at tlie sides. The sail when not in use is rolled uj) and laid along- the platform — when hoisted it stretches obliquely upwards across the mast^ confined by the stays^ with the lower and foremost corner restino* on the stage and the tack secured to the foot of the mast. Both ends being* alike^ the mast central^ and the sail larg'e and manag'eable^ a canoe of this descrij)- tion is well adapted for working* to windward. Tacking* is simply and expeditiously performed by letting* g'o the tack^ hauling* upon the sheet^ and converting- one into the other. The larg*e steering- paddles are eig'ht or nine feet long*^ with an oblong* rounded blade of half that leno-th. June 2Qth. — Yesterday afternoon the Eattlesnake was removed to the neighbourhood of the proposed watering*-place on South-east Island^ and anchored in seventeen fathoms^ mud^ a mile off shore. Soon after daylight I accompanied Captain Stanley and a party in two boats to ascend the neighbouring- creek and determine whether a practicable watering- place existed there. For several hundred yards above the entrance we found the channel preserving a nearly uniform width of about fifteen yards^ with low muddy shores covered with mangroves^ some of which attained the unusual dimensions of 60 to 80 feet in height^ with a circumference at the base of 6 to 8 feet. To this succeeded durino- our upward progress a low bank of red clay backed by risino- o-round and tanoied brush, with very laro-e 208 ITS SCENERY. trees at intervals; and others arching- over the stream^ their branches nearly touching* the Avater. Gig-antic climbers hung* down in long- festoons passing- from branch to branchy and the more ag-ed trunks supported clumps of ferns and parasitical plants. Here and there an areca palm shot up its slender stem surmounted by a cluster of pale-g-reen feathery leaves^ or the attention was arrested for a moment by a mag-nificent pandanus — its trunk raised hig-h above the ground by the enormous supporting- root-like shoots^— or some g-raceful tree- fern with dark widely-spreading- foliage exceeding in delicacy the finest lace. Meanwhile the creek had slightly narrowed^ the dead trees in the water became more frequent and troublesome^ and the thickets on the banks encroached more and more upon the channel so as not to alloAV room for the oars to pass^ obliging the men to use them as poles. At every turn in the windings of the stream (still too brackish to be fit to drink) some beautiful glimpse of jungle scenery presented itself as we passed upwards — long- vistas and stray bursts of sunshine alternating with the gloomy shadows of the surrounding woods. A deep silence pervaded the banks of this water never before visited by civilized man^ its monotony broken onl}^ by the occasional brief word of command^ the splash of the oarS; or the shrill notes of some passing flights of parrots. The river^ for now it might fairly be called one, retained the same character until we had WaTIIEjI T &.W B o oil ejPablisteTs.Lo-ndcri:!, 1852 . DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY. 209 g*one up about a mile^ when further progTess was stopped by a ridg-e of rocks stretching' across from side to side markino- the hmits of the tidal influence. Over this the rush of fresh water formed a strong- rapid backed by a deep^ slug-g-ish^ winding- stream^ draining- a larg-e basin-like valle}^ bounded behind by the central ridg-e of the island^ the principal hills of which attain an elevation of from 992 to 1421 feet^ and one^ Mount Eattlesnake^ is 2689 feet in heig-ht. At times the body of water dis- charg-ed here must be immense^ judging- from the quantity of drift wood and other detritus lodg'ed in the trees twelve feet above the present level of the stream^ probably during- the inundations of the rainy season. These floods must also spread over the low land on the marg-in of the river to a con- siderable distance^ the deep red clay there^ evidently the washing-s of the hills^ bearing* the marks of having- been under water. The jung*le in places is very dense^ but^ with the exercise of a little patience and labour^ it can be penetrated at almost every point. On rising- g-round it is often bordered by a thicket of creeping- and climbing- plants mixed up with bushes and patches of Hellenia ccerulea. The low wooded hills are covered with tall p-rass g-rowing- on ver}^ poor soil — of partially decomposed mica-slate with lumps of quartz. It being' considered practicable to water the ship at this place^ we returned on board. In the after- noon the first load of water was brouo-ht off, and in VOL. I. P 210 PLANTS. the com^se of the week we procured 78 tons with less trouble than had been anticipated. I afterwards repeatedly visited the watering' creek^ and a brief account of the productions of its neighbourhood may here be g-iyen as a popular contribution to the natural history of the little kno^m Louisiade Archipelag'o. The rock is scarcely ever exposed on the banks of the river except at the rapid before alluded to. Though still mica-slate^ it is there of much g-reater hardness and denser texture than on Pig* and Hound Islands^ and stretches across the stream like a dyke^ running' nearly north and south with a westerly dip of about 60°. Elsewhere^ along' the shores of Coral Haven^ this mica-slate is of a leaden hue and g-listening- lustre^ yielding' to the nail^ with a slig'ht g-reasy feel_, especially in some pieces of a shining- ash-g-rey^ acted upon b}' salt water. From hand specimens alone it is difficult to assign a name to this rock^ as it partakes more or less of the characters of mica^ chlorite^ and talc-schists. Among' the botanical productions Nepenthes dcstillatoriay the famous pitcher-plant of the East^ deserves mention. It grows abundantly among the tall grass on the slcirts of the jungle^ and the pitchers invariably contained a small quantity of limpid fluid of a slightly sweetish taste_, with small insects floating on its surface. The finest of the tree-ferns ( Hcmiteliiim) grcAV alone near the watering-place^ and was cut do^vn to furnish speci- ANIMALS. 211 mens. The trunk measured fifteen feet in height, with a diameter at the base of eio'ht inches. No mammaha were procured on South-east Island — indeed the only one seen was a flying-- squirrel which I caught a glimpse of one evening* at the river-mouth as it sprung off among the mangroves from the summit of a dead tree —it appeared to be of the size of an ordinary rat^ and was probably a Petaurus. Wild pigs must be very numerous — as indicated by fresh marks where they had been wallowing in the beds of the ditch- like rivulets_, their footprints everywhere^ and well beaten tracks through the jungle. But none of the animals themselves, probably from their extreme shyness and partially nocturnal habits, were ever encountered by our shooting parties. I was after- wards informed by Mr. Inskip that while in the Bramble, in the neighbourhood of Conde Peninsula, a native in a canoe alono'side havino* his attention directed to a very large boar's tusk which he wore as an ornament, described, by pantomimic gestures, that the animal had cost much trouble in killino- it, having repeatedly charged him, and received no less than eight spear wpunds before it fell. Birds were plentiful, but owing to the difficulty of seeing them among the thick foliage, few, com- paratively, were shot. The most interesting specimen procured was one of a very handsome scarlet Lory, closely alUed to Lorius domiceUus^ a bird widely spread over the Indian Archipelago. It was p 2 212 INSECTS. usually seen in small flocks passing over the tops of the trees^ uttering- a loud sharp scream at intervals. Another parrakeet^ not so big" as a sparrow^ of a g-reen colour^ was sometimes seen in flocks^ hut we could not succeed in g-etting' one. The Torres Strait and Nicobar pig-eons^ also Duperrey's Meg*a- podius were common enough^ as well as many other hirds^ twelve species of which are also found in Australia^ — a most unlooked-for occurrence. No snakes were seen during' our rambles^ but small lizards occurred everywhere. A large lizard, apparently Monitor Gouldiij was shot from a tree on the banks of the river. Although not troubled by mosquitoes^ such of us as strolled about much in the bush were sadly tormented by sand-flies — a minute two- winged insect whose bite raises a small swelling followed by much itching*. On going to bed one nig*ht^ I counted no less than sixty-three of these marks on my left leg' from the ankle to half way up the thigh^ and the right one was equally studded with angry red pimples. Among many kinds of ants I may mention the green one^ which is found chieflv on trees and bushes, of the leaves of which it makes its nest. Should one unconsciously disturb them by getting entangled among the branches in the neighbourhood of a nest^ he may expect a whole swarm upon him before he can extricate himself^ and is first made aware of their presence by feeling sharp stinging pains in various places^ especially the neck^ caused by their bites. SHELLS. 213 A small fire-fly (a species of Lampyris) is plentiful, showing- out at nig-ht like a twinkling- phosphorescent spark, slowly flitting- about from tree to tree or resting- on the leaves wet with dew. Nor must I omit a very splendid day-flying- moth (Cocytia D^ Urvillei) which is common on the skirts of the woods and thickets ; several even came on board the ship at various times. Very few fish were caug-ht at this anchorage, but on the mud-flat at the mouth of the creek, shoals of mullet and ^^ g-uard-fish" were seen daily. In the fresh water I observed several small species of Cyprinidae rising- at flies, but, not being- provided with the requisite tackle, none were caught. The muddy mangrove-covered banks of the lower part of the creek furnished the collection Avith an Auricula and a very fine Cyrenay apparently the same as the Australian and New Guinea C, Cy- jprinoides. Many fresh-water shells were found in the neighbourhood of the watering-place — three kinds of Melania, a Mytilus^ a Namcella^ and five species of Neritina — but most of these have been already described as inhabitants of the Feejee Islands and other places in Polynesia, and else- where. One might reasonably have anticipated a rich harvest of land-shells in the damp forests of South-east Island, yet diligent search on the trunks of the trees and among- the dead leaves about their roots produced only four species, all of which however are new. The finest of these is a Pupina^ 214 BARTER WITH NATIVES. the g-iant of its race^ of a g'lossy reddish pink colour with red mouth. During* om^ stay here the ship was daily visited by canoes from Pig' Island and its ^dcinity^ also from a villa o-e or two on South-east Island, a few miles to the eastward of our anchorage. They usually made their appearance in the morning- and remained for an hour or so^ bartering- cocoa-nuts^ yams, ornaments and weapons for kon hoop, knives, and axes. After leaving- us, those coming- from the eastward, as the wind was unfavourable for then' retm-n, landed at the mouth of the creek and waited for the flood tide. Our intercom-se throuo-hout was peaceful, which was fortunate for both parties, for, if inclined to be hostile, the natives mig'ht frequently have attacked our watering--boats while passing* up and down the river, impeded occasionally by dead trees and shoals, with a dense forest on each side. Latterly, however, as if suspicious of our intentions or tired of our protracted stay, they fired the g-rass on the hill at the entrance of the creek, possibly to deter us from entering*. Still we thoug-ht this might have been done without reference to us, but afterwards two or three men with spears were seen by passing- boats skulking along the banks of the ri^er on their way to the rapid, where they again set fire to the grass as if to smoke us out or prevent om- return. But the grass}' tracts along the tops of the low hills in the vicinity being intersected by lines and patches of brush the fire did not extend VAKIOUS MODES OF PAINTING. 215 far^ as had also been the case lower down^ so caused us no inconvenience. Among- our numerous visitors we occasionally saw a woman or two^ but none w ere favourable speci- mens of their kind. Unlike the men^ whose only covering* was the breech-cloth formerly described^ the women wore a short petticoat of g'rass-like stuffy probably the pandanus leaf divided into fine shreds^ — worked into a narrow band which ties round the waist. They usuall}"^ when along-side the ship^ held a small piece of matting* over the head with one hand^ either to protect them from the sun or par- tially to secure themselves from observation^ as in their manners they were much more reserved than the men. At Coral Haven we have already seen consider- able variety displayed in the various stales of painting* the body. Pounded charcoal mixed up with cocoa-nut oil_, and lime obtained from burnt shells similarly treated^ are the pig-ments made use of. The most common fashion of j^ainting* is with a broad streak down the forehead^ and a circle round each eye. Occasionally the entire body is blackened, but often the face only— with daubs of paint on the temples, cheek, and round the mouth and one or both eyes, rendering* a forbidding* coun- tenance inexpressibly hideous in our sig'ht. The ornaments worn b}^ these savag*es are very numerous, besides which they are fond of decorating* the person with flowers and strong*-scented plants. S16 NATIVE OKNAMENTS. In what may be considered as full dress^ with the face and body painted^ they are often decked out with larg-e white cowries appended to the w^aist^ elbows and ankles^ tog*ether with streamers of pan- danus leaf. Among- many kinds of bracelets or armlets the most common is a broad woven one of g-rass^ fitting- very tightly on the upper arm. There are others of shelly — one solid^ formed by grinding down a large shell (TrocJms Niloticus) so as to obtain a well polished transverse section^ and an- other in two or three pieces tied together^ making a round smooth ring ; of the former of these fi\e or six are sometimes worn on one arm. But the most curious bracelet^ and by no means an uncommon one^ is that made of a human lower jaw with one or more collar bones closing the upper side crossing from one ano'le to the other. Whether these are the jaws of former friends or enemies we had no means of ascertaining * no great value ap- peared to be attached to them • and it was observed, as a curious circumstance^ that none of these jaws had the teeth discoloured by the practice of betel chewino\ We procured various sorts of necklaces, — strings of shells, black seeds, and dogs teeth. As the NATIVE ORNAMENTS. 217 canine teeth alone are used in making* one of the last description^ the number of dog-s required to complete a sing*le necklace must be considerable. A round thin^ concave piece of shell {Melo Uthio- pica)y with a central black portion^ is often worn suspended by a string- round the neck^ and similar ornaments^ but much smaller^ are attached to the hips and elbows. The long- nose-stick of shell is only occasionally worn^ althoug^h every one^ of either seX; has the septum of the nose pierced for its recep- tion^—an operation most likely performed during infancy^ as I once saw that it had been done to a child about a year old. Nearly all the men carried in their hair a comb projecting" in front or on one side. This article is usually made of w^ood^ but occasionally of tortoise- shelly a foot in lengthy thin^ flat^ and narrow^ wdth about six very long*^ slig'htly diverging-^ needle- shaped teeth^ but it admits of much variety of size and shape^ and frequently has various ornaments attached to it. The spatula used by betel chewers to introduce the lime to the mouthy although often made of tortoise-shell and resembling- that fig-ured on a preceding' pag'e^ is more commonly made of cocoa-nut wood^ with a massive handle, deeply divided by a slit^ and w^hen struck upon the knee it is made to produce a loud clicking' noise like that of castanets. CHAPTER VI. LEAYE COEAL HAYEX — BEIEELT ISLAKD — COMMr^ICATION WITH THE NATITES— DESCEIPTI0:N^ OF THEIE EXITS — BAE- TEEI>'a FOE YAMS A^'D COCOA-XUTS — STTSPICIOTIS CONDUCT OF THE KATIYES — THEY ATTACK THE STJEYEYIlS^a BOATS CALYADOS GEOrP — FrETHEE COMMUIs^ICATlOIS' WITH THE INHABITAIfTS — STAY AT DUCHATEAIT ISLAJfDS — THEIE PEODUCTIOXS — PEOCEEDIXGS THEEE — DUPEEEE ISLANDS — r:N^ABLE TO FIXD A:N'CH0EAGE— PASS OUT TO SEA AKD PEOCEED TO THE WESTWAED —WESTERN TEEMINATION OF THE LOnSIADE AECHIPELAGO— BEACH THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. July 27if/.— The Bramble having* returned from an exploration to the westward with the report that there was a passage out of Coral Haven in that direction^ the ship left her anchorage off the watering place this morning-^ with boats ahead and on each side of her^ repeating the soundings by sioTial: she ran alono' the land to the westward seven or eight miles_, passed between Pig and South- east Islands^ rounded the north-west end of the latter^ stood between it and Joannet Island to the W.S.W. for about five miles^ and anchored earl}^ in the forenoon in 15 fathoms^ water^ under a small detached reef and dry sand-bank. Several \evy fine red snappers were caught with hook and line soon BRIERLY ISLAND AND NATIVES. 219 after anchoring*^ and smaller fish of many kinds were caug'lit in abundance^ — they were mostly species of Pentapus^ Diacope^ and Mesoprion, AVhile passing* a small island — afterwards named in honour of Mr. Brierlv — distant from our an- chorag-e about two miles N.W. by W.^ several women and dog's were seen on shore^ and soon afterwards two canoes^ which had followed us from the anchorage^ were seen to put in there. In the afternoon two boats were sent to this island^ to communicate with the natives^ and search for an anchorag'e near it. We landed upon a sand}^ beach^ after wading* over the fringing* reef^ and were met by some natives who had come round a neig'hbour- ing* point from the windward or inhabited side. Although at first cautious of approach^ yet in the course of a few minutes they came ^^eelj about us to the number of twenty^ each carr3ing' two or three spears — not the beautifully polished and well- balanced ones we had seen elsewhere^ but merely slender^ rudely -fashioned sticks sharpened at each end. About twelve women^ dressed in the usual petticoat of g'rass-like stuffy followed at a distance^ and kept close to the point for some time ; but at leng-th the natural curiosity of the sex (I suppose) overcame their fear^ and althoug-h repeatedly ordered back by the men^ they drew up closer and closer to have a peep at the strang-ers. Two of the young-est and most attractive of these ladies advanced to within twenty yards^ and received with much appa- 220 BRIERLY ISLAND AND NATIVES. rent delig-ht^ and a great deal of capering* and dancing* about on the sand^ some strips of a g'audy handkerchief conveyed to them by a lad decorated with streamers of pandanus leaf at the elbows and wrists — evidently the Adonis of the party. Some of the men had formerly been off to the ship^ and one or two carried axes of the usual form^ but headed with pieces of our iron hoop_, neatly ground to a fine edg*e. A few cocoa-nuts were given us for a knife or two^ and we saw their mode of climbing* for them^ which one man did with the ag*ility of a monkey, ascending* first by a few notches, made years ag-o, afterwards by clasping- the trunk with his arms, arching* his body with the feet ag*ainst the tree, and then walking* up precisely in the mode of the Torres Strait Islanders. Like these last people too, they open the nut with a sharp stick, and use a shell (a piece of mother-of-pearl oyster) for scraping* out the pulp. After a stay of half an horn' we returned to the boat leaving* the natives in g*ood humom\ Our search for a safe anchorag-e for the ship was unsuccessful, so we returned on board. July ^rd. — After the g*ood understanding* which appeared to have been established yesterday, I was rather surprised at observing* the suspicious manner in which we were received to-day by the people on Brierlv Island. In two boats we went round to a small sandy point on the northern side of the island where seven or eig-ht canoes were hauled up on the beach, but some time elapsed before any of COMMUNICATION WITH THEM. 221 the natives came close up — even to a single unarmed man of our party who waded ashore — the others remaining' in the boats — althoug'h tempted by the display of pieces of iron hoop and strips of calico. One of the natives^ carrying* a wooden sword^ and apparently a leading- man among* them^ made some sig'ns and used g-esticulations expressive of sleep or death with reference to a part of Joannet Island which he repeatedly pointed to. This we could not understand.* After a certain deg'ree of confidence had been restored^ five or six of us remained on shore^ and gTeat harmony appeared to prevail throughout the combined party. In one place the serg'eant of marines was seated on the sand Avith a ring' of people round him whom he was drilling- into the mode of singing- a Port Essing-ton aborig'inal song'^ occasionally rising- to vary his lesson with a dance^ — in another^ a gToup of natives were being- initiated in the mysteries of the Jew's harp^ or kept amused by the performance of various antics. Mr. Huxley as usual^ was at work with his sketch-book^ and I employed myself in procuring- words for an incipient vocabulary. My principal informant was called Wadai^ a little withered old man with shaved * Although not understood at the time, he referred to an affray between two boats detached from the ship on surveying service and some Joannet Island canoes, which had occurred only a few hours before at the place indicated ; of this we had not yet heard, but the news had reached Brierly Island, and occasioned our strange reception. This is a remarkable instance of the rapidity with which intelligence may be conveyed from one island to another. 222 MODE OF USING THE BETEL. head;, on which some one had stuck a red nig'ht-cap which greatly took his fancy. Not being- of so vola- tile a nature as the others he remained patiently with me for half an hour. He shewed me the mode of using- the betel^ which^ as practised by these people has this pecuharity^ that the leaf of the siri or betel pepper is not employed^ as is universally the case among- the Malays. A small portion of the green betel- nut (the fruit of the Areca Catecliu) which here curiously enough is named ereka—is broken off with the teeth and placed in the mouth 3 then the spatula^ formerly described^ moistened with saliva^ is dipped into a small calabash of lime in fine powder^ with vrhich the tongue and lips are smeared over by repeated applications. The bolus is then kept in the mouthy and rolled over and over until it is thought requisite to renew it. The practice of betel chewing* is not confined to the men^ for the few v/omen whom we had seen alongside the shijJ in Coral Haven^ had their teeth blackened by it. One of the natives seen to-day exhibited a remarkable case of malformation of the teeth. The lower incisors were wanting^ and the upper ones had coalesced and gTown downwards and outwards^ forming- an irregular dark protruding- mass which I at first took to be a quid of betel. Another man with a diseased leg* had lost one hand at the wrist^ and the long shrivelled arm j^i'esented a curious appearance. Several dog-s were also seen close to^ for Lilii,.'.!k^/ THEIR VILLAGE. 223 the first time — they were wretched half-starved objects of various colours^ but ag'reed in being- long'-bodied^ short-leg'g'ed^ and prick-eared^ with sharp snout and lon^ tail^ slightly bushy^ but tapering* to a point. They do not bark^ but have the long* melancholy howl of the ding-o or Avild dog" of Australia. At leng'th some of us found our way to the huts of the natives which were close at hand^ and had thus an opportunity of examining* one of them minutely^ besides verifying* what we had before seen only from a distance^ and with the aid of the telescope. The distinctive characters of these huts consist in their being long* and tunnel-like^ drooping* and overhanging* at each end^ raised from the g*round upon posts^ and thatched over. The four huts composing* the villag*e were placed in two adjacent clearing-s^ fifty or sixty yards in leng-th^ screened from the beach by a belt of small trees and brush- wood. Behind is the usual jung*le of the wooded islands of the Archipelag'o^ with a path leading* throuo-h it towards the centre of the island. A solitary hut stood perched upon the ridg'e near the summit shaded by cocoa-palms_, and partially hid amono' the bushes and tall o-rass. It differed from those of the villag*e in having* the posts projecting* throug'h the roof; but whether used as a dwelling* or not; is a matter of conjecture. It may possibly have been used for the reception of the dead. In the villa g-e an approximate measurement gave 224 DESCRIPTION OF THEIR HUTS. thirty feet as the leng'th^ nine the breadth^ and thirteen the heio-ht in centre of one of these huts — the one fig'ured in the accompanying* plate ', the annexed woodcut gives an end view of another. All four were built upon exactly the same plan. The supporting posts are four in number^ and raise the floor about fom^ and a half feet from the g-round^ leaving* a clear space beneath. Before entering* the body of the hut each post passes throug'h an oval disc of wood^ a foot and a half in diameter, the object of Avhich is probably to prevent the ing*ress into the dwelling* of snakes, rats, or other vermin, most likely the Mus IndiciiSy with which all the DESCRIPTION OF HUTS. 225 islands to the westward are overrun. To the stout uprig'hts are lashed transverse bars supporting' three long* parallel timbers running" the whole leng'th of the floor ; on these seven or eig'ht transverse poles are laid^ crossed by about a dozen longitudinal and slighter ones^ on which a flooring* of long- strips of the outer wood of the cocoa-nut tree is laid across. After penetrating the floor^ the main posts rise ^we feet higher^ where they are connected at top by others as tie-beams^ which cross them^ and project a little further to sustain the two lateral of the ^ve long-itudinal supports of the roof, which^ at the g'able ends, are further secured by other tie-beams. On the two central cross-bars also is laid a platform running* one half the leng'th of the hut, floored on one side, forming' a partial upper VOL. I. 226 DESCRIPTION OF HUTS. stor}^; with a space of three feet between it and the ceihng". The sides and roof are formed of slender poles or rafters arching* over from side to side^ secm^ed by lashings of rattan to five poles running- lengthways ; the whole forming a strong framework thatched over with coarse grass pulled up by the roots in large tufts^ with a few cocoa-palm leaves laid over all. The lower part of the sides and upper portion of the ends under the overhanging g'ables are formed by strips of coarse matting. There are usually entrances at both ends^ and the centre of one side^ closed by a flap of matting finer than the rest. Opposite each door an inclined beam — one end of which rests on the ground^ and the other leans against the fork of a short upright post — serves as a step for mounting by. Near these huts were several large sheds, open at one side^ where the cooking is performed^— judging from the remains of fires under them. On two small stages^ planked over^ we saw a number of thin and neatly carved earthen pots^ blackened with smoke * these are usually a foot in diameter^ but one was as much as eighteen inches. I was struck with a feature exhibiting- the cleanly habits of these savages^ from whom in this respect the inhabitants of many villag'es in the mother country might take a lesson^ — it consisted in the well swept ground^ where not a stray stone or leaf w^as suffered to re- main^ and the absence about the dwellings of every- thing offensive to the smell or sight. I could not FOOD OF THE NATIVES. 227 help contrasting* the condition of these people with that of the Australian blacks^ a considerable por- tion of whose time^ at certain periods of the 3^ear^ is spent in shifting* about from place to place^ searching' for food^ living* from hand to mouthy and leading* a hard and precarious life. But here^ on this little island^ the cocoa-nut tree alone would be sufficient to supply many of the principal wants of man. The fruit serves both for food and drink^ — the shell is used to carry about water in,*— the fibres of the husk are converted into cordag-e^ and the leaves into mattino- Avhile the wood is fashioned into spears and other useful articles. The cultiva- tion of bananas and yams — of the latter of which^ and of tAVO other edible roots^ we saw larg*e quanti- ties in the huts^ — costs him very little trouble^ — he occasionally keeps a few pig's^ and when inclined^ can ahvays catch plenty of iish^ and occasionall}" a turtle upon the reefs at low water. Before leaving* the beach I presented old Wadai with an axe^ as a recompence for his civility. The poor man looked quite bewildered at his unexpected good fortune^ and for a little while was quite speech- less^— not understanding* the nature of a g-ift^ or being* taken with a sudden fit of g-enerosity^ he afterwards waded out to the boat with some cocoa- nuts to give me in return. * Some of these are represented in the preceding woodcut, — the hole in the top is usually plugged with a portion of banana leaf. Q 2 228 BARTERING FOR YAMS. Jnhj 4fA.— The first cutter was sent to Brierly Island to-day^ for the double purpose of endeavour- ing- to procure yams from the natives for the use of the ship's company^ and enabling me to make addi- tions to my vocabulary and collection. Mr. Brady took charg'e of the bartering*^ and drawing* a number of lines upon the sandy beach^ explained that when each was covered with a yam he would give an axe in return. At first some little difficulty occurred as the yams were brought down very slowly — two or three at a time^ — but at length the first batch was completed and the axe handed over. The man who got it — the sword-bearer of yesterday — had been trembling with anxiety for some time back^ holding' Mr. Brady by the arm and watching- the promised axe with eager eye. When he obtained possession of it he became quite wild with joy^ laughing and screaming^ and flourishing the axe over his head. After this commencement the bartering' went on briskl}^ amidst a great deal of uproar^ the men pas- sing- between the village and the beach at full speedy with basketfuls of j^ams^ and too intent upon getting the liiram kehmai (iron-axes)^ to think of anything else. Meanwhile Mr. Huxley and m3'self walked about unheeded by almost any one. The women kept themselves in the bush at a little distance^ making- a great noise^ but avoided shewing- them- selves. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of these sable damsels^ but only one female came near us_, — a meagre old woman who darted past with an axe NATIVES GET TIRED OF US. 229 in her hand^ and sprang* up into one of the huts like a harlequin^ shewing* at the same time more of her long- shrivelled shanks than was strictly decorous. Besides the usual petticoat reaching- to the knee, made of a g-rass or some leaf— perhaps of the pan- danus, — cut into long* shreds, this dame wore a somewhat similar article round the neck, hang-ing* over the breast and shoulders, leavino;- the arms free. An axe was offered to one of the men, who had pre- viously sat for his portrait, to induce him to bring* the woman to Mr. Huxley, who w^as anxious to g'et a sketch of a female, but in spite of the strong* in- ducement we did not succeed, and any further notice taken of the woman seemed to g'ive offence. While wandering' about the place we came upon a path leading' in to the adjacent brush, but blocked up by some cocoa-nut leaves recently thrown across. This led past an enclosm-e of about three-quarters of an acre, neatly and strong'ly fenced in, probably used as a pen for keeping* pig'S in, judg'ing' from the absence of anything- like cultivation, and the trodden-down appearance, apparently made by these animals, a jaw bone of one of which was picked up close by. At length the natives appeared anxious to g*et rid of us, after obtaining* about seventeen axes and a few knives, in return for 868 pounds of yams, which cost us little more than a halfpenny per pound. After wading* out to the boat, the natives assisted in shoving* her off, and when we had got well clear of 230 THEIR SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT. the beach^ they treated us to what mig-ht have been one of then- dances^ dividing' into two parties^ and with wild pantomimic g-esture^ advancing* and re- tiring-^ and g'oing' through the motion of throwing- the spear^ with one or two of which each was pro- vided. Even during* the heig'ht of the bartering* very few of the natives had laid aside their w eapons^ and it was evident that they were influenced by no very friendly feeling* towards us^ and were g'lad to be relieved of our presence. They had latterly become more noisy than usual; and even insolent^ and I believe that had we staid a little long*er; hostihties would have commenced^ as they probably reg*arded our forbearance to be the result of fear. "We landed on the opposite side of the island to g-ive me an opportunity of procuring* some specimens^ as it was judg-ed that our shooting* there would not annoy the inhabitants. The boat remained off at anchor while some of us strolled along the beach; g-etting* an occasional shot. Birds however were few. Among' those seen were the fishing*-eag*le; osprey^ and two smaller birds— all Australian. On the slope behind the beach we saw for the first time signs of cultivation^ — in a small plantation of bananas and yams. There was no fence^ but the ground had been partially cleared^ leaving* the stumps of the smaller trees and shrubs as posts for the yam plants (a Dioscorea with broad heart-shaped leaves) to train themselves upon. After a stay of nearly an horn*; we were moving down towards the boat; when THEIR SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT. 231 the natives made their appearance round the point, coming' up in strag'g'ling- order. One in advance of the rest came along* at a rapid pace with his spear poised, and pointed it at the nearest of our party, when within a few yards of him^ with what intention I do not presume to say, — but the natives were evi- dently in a state of g-reat excitement. As they mig'ht erroneously have supposed that we had been making" free with their cocoa-nuts and yams^ some g-rass which had been cut for the sheep on board was taken out of the bag* and shewn them as being- intended for our hoho (pig's)— which they appeared to understand. The one among- them w^ho had yesterday made the allusion to Joannet Island pointed to our g-uns, talking- at the same time with g-reat energ-y, and making- sig-ns as if wishing- to see the use of a weapon of whose wonderful effects he had lately heard. As many swallows were flying- about, I told Wilcox, — probably the best shot of the party— to shoot one, which was done cleverly, and the bird fell at our feet. The indications of surprise were not so g-reat as I expected to have seen exhi- bited, but after several more shots had been fired, some with ball along* the w^ater, a few of the natives be2*an to shew sio-ns of uneasiness and sneaked away. Old Wadai, however (perhaps feeling- per- fectly secure under the shelter of his perfect in- sig*nificance), and one or two others sat doAvn under a tree beside us, apparently unconcerned, and some 232 FORM VOCABULARY. of the rest remained on the beach until after our departure. We did not afterwards land upon Brierly Island^ so I may conclude with a short description. It is not more than half a mile in lengthy with a central ridge attaining' the heig'ht of 347 feet^ and sloping" downwards at each end. It is well wooded with low trees and brushwood^ and mixed up wdth them there is a profusion of cocoa-palms scattered about in clumps^ from the margin of the beach to the shoulders of the hill ; long- coarse g*rass^ at this time of a beautiful lig'ht g'reen tint_, covered the re- mainder. The usual fringing* coral reef surrounds the island^ running* off to a g*reat distance in one direction. The gTeater part of the shore and the projecting* points are rock}^ (where the soft splintery mica slate has been exposed)^ with occasional sandy beaches. We saw no fresh water^ but the de- chvities here and there shewed deep furrows in the red clayey soil; the effects of torrents after heavy rains. To-day and yesterday I obtained in all about 130 words of the lang'uag'e of the Brierly Island people. The small vocabulary thus formed^ the first ever obtained in the Louisiade Archipelag^o^ leads to some interesting* results^ and fills up one of the gaps in the chain of philological affinities which may afterwards be brought to bear upon the perplexing* question — AVhence has Austraha been LANGUAGE OF THE LOUISIADE. 288 peopled ? Taking- the numerals as affording* in the present instance the most convenient materials for hasty comparison^ I find words in common — not onty with those of other divisions of the Pelagian Negroes/ as the inhabitants of the north coast of New Guinea on the one hand^ and New Ireland on the other^ but also with the Malay and the various Polynesian languages or dialects spoken from New Zealand to Tahiti-t This latter affinity between the woolly and straight-haired sections of oceanic blacks appears to me to render it more curious and unexpected that the language of the Louisiade should completely differ from that of the northern part of Torres Strait^ J the inhabitants of both being connected by strong general similarity and occa- sionally identity in manners and customs^ and having many physical characteristics common to both. Yet while the natives of the Louisiade use the decimal system of the Mala3^s and Polynesians^ the Torres Strait islanders have simple words to express the numerals one and two only^ while three is represented by a compound.§ * Natural History of Man, by J. C. Pritchard, M.D. 2n(i ed. p. 326. f D'Urville's Voyage de I'Astrolabe. Philologie. Tom. ii. X Jukes' Voyage of the Fly, vol. ii. p. 2/4. § These remarks I give as written in my journal, with the sole exception of the term Pelagian Negroes. The reader is referred to Dr. Latham's observations on my Vocabularies in the Appendix to this work. 234 ATTACK UPON THE SURVEYING BOATS. Juhj Gth. — Lieutenants Dayman and Simpson^ with the pinnace and second g*alley^ returned to the ship after an absence of several days. On the morning' of the 4th^ after having- spent the nig-ht at anchor in one of the bays on the south side of Joannet Island^ they were attacked by the natives under the folio Aving* circumstances : — In the grey of the morning' the look-outs reported the approach of three canoes^ with about ten men in each. On two or three persons shewing* themselves in the bow of the pinnace in front of the rain-awning'^ the natives ceased paddhng'^ as if baulked in their desig'n of sm'prising' the larg-e boat^ but^ after a short con- sultation^ they came alongside in theu^ usual noisy manner. After a stay of about five minutes only they pushed off to the g'alley^ and some more sham bartering* was attempted^ but they had nothing* to give in exchang-e for the helumai so much coveted. In a short time the rudeness and overbearino- inso- lence of the natives had risen to a pitch which left no doubt of their hostile intentions. The anchor was g'ot up^ when some of the blacks seized the painter^ and others in trying* to capsize the boat broug^ht the g'unwale down to the water's edg'e^ at the same time grappling- with the men to pull them out^ and dragging* the galley in-shore towards the shoal water. The bowman^ with the anchor in his hand^ was struck on the head with a stone-headed axe^ the blow was repeated_, but fortu- nately took effect only on the wash-streak y another ATTACK UrON THE SURVEYING BOATS. 235 of the crew was struck at with a similar weapon, but warded off the blow, although held fast by one arm, when, just as the savage was making* another stroke, Lieutenant Dayman, who until now had exercised the utmost forbearance, fired at him with a musket. The man did not drop although wounded in the thigh; but even this, unquestion- ably their first experience of fire-arms, did not intimidate the natives, one of whom, standing on a block of coral, threw a spear which passed across the breast of one of the boat's crew and lodged in the bend of one arm, opening- the vein. They raised a loud shout when the spear was seen to take effect, and threw several others which missed. Lieutenant Simpson, who had been watching what was going on then fired from the pinnace with buck shot and struck them, when, finding that the large boat, although at anchor, could assist the smaller one, the canoes were paddled in-shore in great haste and confusion. Some more musket shots were fired, and the galley went in chase endeavouring to tm^n the canoes, so as to bring them under the fire of the pinnace's 12-pounder howitzer, which was speedily mounted and fired. The shot either struck one of the canoes or Avent within a few inches of the mark, on which the natives instantly jumped overboard into the shallow water, making for the mangroves, which they succeeded in reaching, dragging their canoes with them. Two rounds of grape-shot crashing through 236 ATTACK UPON THE SURVEYING BOATS. the branches dispersed the party^ but afterwards they moved two of the canoes out of sight. The remaining- one was broug-ht out after breakfast by the g'alley under cover of the pinnace^ and was towed off to some distance. The paddles having- been taken out and the spears broken and left in her^ she was let g^o to drift do^\Ti towards a villag'e whence the attacking' party were supposed to have come. Some blood in this canoe^ althoug-h not the one most aimed at^ shewed that the firing- had not been ineffective. This act of deliberate treachery was perpetrated by persons who had always been well-treated by us^ for several of the natives present were recog-nised as having* been along-side the ship in Coral Haven. This^ then' first act of positive hostility^ affords^ I think^ conclusive evidence of the savag-e disposition of the natives of this part of the Louisiade when excited b}^ the hope of plunder^ and shews that no confidence should ever Ue reposed in them unless_, perhaps^ in the presence of a numerically superior force^ or the close \dcinity of the ship. At the same time the boldness of these savag-es in attacking-^ with thirty men in three canoes^ two boats known to con- tain at least twenty persons — even in hopes of taking- them by surprise — and in not being- at once driven off upon feeling* the novel and deadly effects of musketry^ indicates no little amount of bravery. In the course of the same day^ when Lieut. Dayman was close in-shore with the g'alley laying* down the CHANGEABLE WEATHER. 237 coast line^ he had occasion to approach the native villag-e before alluded to^ and observed the men following- the boat along* the beach within g-unshot^ sharpening* and poising- their spears^ violently g-esticulating- and calling* out loudly^ as if daring* him to land. A favourable opportunity was now afforded for punishing- the natives for their treachery; but from hig-hly commendable motives of humanity^ no steps were taken for this purpose by Lieut. Day- man^ and they were treated with silent contempt. July 10^/?.— The Bramble and two of our boats were sent to ascertain whether an easy passag-e to the westward existed in-shore near the isl-ands (the Calvados Group) extending- in that direction^ while^ at the same time, the ship stood to the southward and anchored in 28 fathoms^ four miles inside the barrier-reef. On our way we passed numerous small coral patches, and others were afterwards found to the westAvard, running- in irreg'ular lines, and partially blocking- up the passag-e inside the barrier, which it was expected would have been found clear. We remained here for five days, during* \A'liich period we had much variety of weather— sometimes blowing- hard from E.S.E. to E.N.E. with squalls and thick g-loomy weather — at other times nearly a calm, the air disag-reeably close and mug-gy, the temperature varying* from 75'' to 85^^, with occasional heavy rain. Small fish appeared to abound at this anchorag-e. I had never before seen the sucking*-fish [Echeneis 238 SUCKING-FISH AND SHARK. Bemora) so plentiful as at this place ] they caused much annoyance to our fishermen hy carrying- off baits and hooks^ and appeared always on the alert^ darting- out in a body of twenty or more from under the ship's bottom when any ofFal was thrown over- board. Being' quite a nuisance^ and useless as food^ Jack often treated them as he would a shark^ by '^ spritsail-yarding-^" or some still less refined mode of torture. One day some of us while walking- the poop had our attention directed to a sucking--fish about two and a half feet in length which had been made fast by the tail to a billet of wood by a fathom or so of spun yarn^ and turned adrift. An immense striped shark^ apparently about fourteen feet in lengthy which had been cruizing- about the ship all the morning'^ sailed slowly up^ and^ turning- slightly on one side_, attempted to seize the apparentl}^ help- less fish^ but the sucker^ with great dexterity^ made himself fast in a moment to the shark's back— off darted the monster at full speedy — the sucker holding- on fast as a limpet to a rock^ and the billet to wing- astern. He then rolled over and over^ tumbling- about^ when^ wearied with his efforts^ he laid quiet for a little. Seeing the floaty the shark got it into his mouthy and disengaging- the sucker by the tug on the line^ made a bolt at the fish; but his puny antagonist was again too quick^ and fixing- himself close behind the dorsal fin^ defied the efforts of the shark to disengage him^ although he rolled over and over^ lashing the water with his tail until it THE CALVADOS GROUP. 289 foamed all around. What the final result was^ we could not clearl}^ make out. Many water snakes were seen here^ swimming* about on the surface ; and one of Uvo chasing- each other and playing' about the ship was shot by Captain Stanley from his cabin window^ and broug-ht on board. It appeared to be of the genus HypotrophiSy and measured 37 i inches in length 5 it had a pair of minute poison fangs on each side of the upper jaw ) the colour was a du^ty g*reenish with numerous pale narrow bands. July IQtli, — The pinnace having returned yester- day and reported a clear passage for the ship to the Avestward close in-shore^ we got under weigh and returned on the same line by which we had come out^ anchoring- for the night in 19 fathoms water^ under Observation Eeef II. Next day we rounded Brierly Island from the eastward^ passed between it and Joannet Island^ and after running a few miles further to the westward^ anchored in 80 fathoms — 15 miles W.N.W. from Brierly Island^ and two miles from the nearest of the Calvados Group. In passing* Brierly Island the place appeared to be deserted. AVe saw a single canoe hauled uji on the beach^ but no natives. On July 18th, after standing to the westward 32 miles^ we hauled out south^ and anchored in 22 fathoms^ about eight miles from the nearest of the Calvados. We remained at this ancliorao*e for the next three days. One day we were visited by a 240 INHABITAISTS OF THE CALVADOS GROUP. canoe from a neig-hbourmg- island^ and on the follow- ing* morning' two more canoes came off. The people in one canoe kept at a safe distance^ hut those in the other came along'side^ and after exhausting* their stock of yams and other articles of barter^ went off to their more cautious companions^ and speedily returned to us with a fresh supply. The canoe was an old patched-up affair^ and while one of the natives was standing" up with a foot on each g-unwale, a previous fracture in the bow^ united only by pitch, g'ave way^ and a piece of the side^ four feet long', came out, allowing* the water to rush in. The canoe would speedily have been swamped, had not the author of the mischief held on the piece in his hand^ while some of the others bailed away as rapidly as possible, and the remainder paddled off with despe- ration, shouting* loudl}' to the people in the second canoe for help. But their friends seemed as much frig'htened as themselves, not knowing* the nature of the accident, and probably supposing* that we had been roug'hly treating* their companions ; — they made sail for the shore, and did not stop until they had g-ot half a mile away from the ship, when they waited until the damag'ed canoe came up in a sinking- state, bailed her out, and after taking* some people out of her, both made off", under sail, and we saw no more of them. But for this accident I Avould probably have g*ot a few words of their lang'uag'e to compare with those obtained at Brierly Island. Our visitors Avere pro- THE LOUISIADE ARCHirELAGO. 241 fusely decorated with the red^ feathery^ leafy shoots of an AmaranthvSy which they wore fastened in bunches about the ankles^ waist^ elbows^ and in th(3 hair. In other respects^ I saw nothing" among* them different from what has ah-eady been described at Coral Haven. From this anchorage we enjoyed an extensive view of the south-eastern portion of the Louisiade Archipelag'o. On the extreme rig'ht is the larg'e South-east Island^ with its sharply undulating* out- line^ and Mount Eattlesnake clearly visible^ althoug-h distant 45 miles. Next^ after a g-ap partially filled up by Pig' Island^ Joannet Island succeeds^ 10|- miles in leng"th^ not so high as South-east Island but resembling- it in dimness of outline^ — its highest pointy Mount Asp^ is 1104 feet in height. Next come the Calvados^ of various aspect and size^ some with the undulating outline of the larger islands^ others rising more or less abruptly to the height of from four to upwards of nine hundred feet. They constitute a numerous group^— upwards of 40^some of which^ hoAvever^ are mere rocks^ are delineated upon the Eattlesnake's chart^ and there are others to the northward. Behind them^ in tA\'o of the intervals^ the large and distant island of St. Aignan (so named after one of D'Entrecasteaux's lieutenants) fills up the back ground^ falling' low at its eastern extreme^ but the western half high and mountainous, with an elevation of 8279 feet. Furtlier to the westward the last of the Calvados in this view aa as VOL I. R 242 DUCHATEAU ISLANDS. seen to form a remarkable i^eak^ 518 feet in lieig"lit^ to whieli the name of Eddystone was applied ; and still further to the left He Eeal^ of D'Urville's chart^ shoots up to the heig'ht of 554 feet_, as a solitary rocky island ^^dth rug'g'ed outline and an abruptly peaked summit. July 23?y/. — Yesterday we were prevented from reachinof our intended anehorao^e at the Duchateau Isles by a strongs easterly tide_, the wind at the same time being" too lig'ht to allow us to stem it. To-day the ship was moved closer in^ and moored in a convenient berth in 13 fathoms^ half a mile north from the middle island. We remained here for eleven days^ thus afford ing- good opportunities for examining' the g'roup. The Duchateau Isles are three low^ wooded^ coral islets^ the larg-est of which is only three-fourths of a mile in leno'th. The two eastern islands are connected by a reef, partty dry at low water^ and separated by a narrow passag-e from the smaller reef^ sur- rounding' the western island. The southern^ or wind- ward margin of these reefs^ j^resents a similarity to the barrier class by rising* up suddenly from an unknown depth^ with constant and ver}^ heavy breakers_, but the northern^ and at present the leeward portion^ extends only a little way^ with irregular and not well defined outline^ and anchor- ao-e near it in from twelve to fifteen fathoms. The three islands agree in presenting- the same physical characters. They are margined by a beach of PLANTS AND ANIMALS. 243 white coral sanely with occasional thin beds and ledg-es of coral cong'lomerate^ succeeded by a belt of tang-led bushes and low trees^ after which the trees become hig'her and the gTound tolerably free from underwood_, with occasional thickets of woody climbers. The cocoa-palm g-rows here in small numbers^ usually several together^ overtopping* the other trees among* which one of the Boinbacece (silk- cotton trees) and Pisonia graridis attain the g-reatest dimensions^ having* frequently a g-irth of t^^elve or fifteen feet^ with a heig'ht of sixty or seventy. A larg*e leaved Calophylliim is the prevailing* tree of the island^ and among* the others I may mention a Myristica and a CaryophyUmn^ neither of which^ however^ are of the species furnishing* the nutmeg's and cloves of commerce. Of mammalia a larg*e PteropuSy or fruit-eating* bat^ was seen once or twice^ but no specimen was procured. The little Indian rat occurs abundantly on all the islands^ taking* to hollow log's and holes under the roots of trees for shelter. Here it is tamer than I have elsewhere seen it^ — by sitting* down in a shady place^ and remaining* quiet^ I have sometimes had three or four within a few yards of me playing* about; chafing- each other^ or turning* over the dead fS leaves. It even climbs bushes and low trees^ and g'ets out among' the branches like a squirrel. Birds were plentiful^ and our sportsmen com- mitted g'reat havoc among* the meg'apodii and pig'eons. The former ^^'ere very numerous, running* about the R 2 244 NICOBAR AND NUTMEG PIGEONS. thickets^ and 'calling' to each other like pheasants in a preserve at home. Among* the other g-ame birds^ first in size and splendoiu' comes the Nicobar pig-eon ( Caloenas Nicohariea). As its appearance exhibits a near approach to the gallinaceous bu^ds^ so do its habits. It lives chiefly on the ground^ runs with great swiftness^ and flies up into a tree when dis- turbed. A nest found here was of the rude platform construction usually found among the pigeon family ; it was built in a tree about ten feet from the ground^ and contained a single white egg\ The most com- mon of the family, hoAvever^ is one of the nutmeg' pigeons, Carpophaga Oceamca. Many of both sexes were furnished with a large, round, fleshy caruncle on the bill at the base of the forehead,— this is said to be present during the breeding season onl}^ Its favourite place of resort dm'ing the heat of the day is among the nutmegs and other spreading shady trees where we found it difficult of detection, even when led up to the spot by its cooing. This last may be represented by the letters poor-oo-oo-oo Iwor-r-r-r, the first syllable loud and startling, the remainder faint and long drawn out ; on the other hand the cry of the Nicobar pigeon is merely hoo- Jioo, In flavour the Oceanic pigeon far sm-passes the white or Torres Strait species, the merits of which, as an article of food, ^ye had so often fully appreciated during our last cruize. Most of them were very fat, and some even burst.; open' in falling to the ground after having been shot. A BIRDS^ REPTILES^ AND FISHES. 245 solitary specimen of another larg*e pig^eon — with the throat white^ and the plumag-e with purple and g*reen metallic reflections — was obtained^ also a small dove of a new species^ with pink forehead and broad cream-coloured pectoral band^ which has been named by Mr. Gould Ptilonojms stropJiium, The only other bird which I shall mention is a very fine king*- fisher (Halcyon saurophaga), with white head^ neck^ and lower parts^ green scapulars^ and blue wing's and tail^ previously known by a sing^le specimen from New Guinea in the British Museum. It is a very shy bird^ frequenting* the margin of the island^ usually seen perched on some detached or solitary branch, as if sunning* itself, and darting- off into the dense brush upon being* approached. Small lizards were plentiful^ but we met with no larg-e ones or snakes during- our rambles on the Duchateau Isles. These islands are probably much resorted to by turtle^ as they were daily seen swim- ming- about^ and one was caug-ht on shore during- our stay by a party of natives. The variety of fishes caug'ht at this anchor ag-e was considerable^ and fur- nished many additions to the ichthyolog-ical collec- tion^ to which the paucity of other objects in zoology for some time back enabled me to bestow much attention.* Among- the g-enera most remarkable * Besides many kinds preserved in spirits, which have not yet been examined, my collection contained stuffed specimens of about forty species of Louisiade fishes. These, I have been informed by Sir John Richardson, have nearly all been previously described from other parts of Oceania, the Indian Ocean, and the China 246 SHELLS AND HERMIT CRABS. for sing'ularity of form and brilliancy of colouring* I may mention Holocentrum^ fiYQ kinds of which were procured here^ one brilliantly coloured with blue and silver, and the remainder more or less of a brio-ht scarlet. The land-shells appear here to be limited to a soli- tary Helicina^ found on the leaves and trunks of trees ] and the trifling' amount of rise and fall of tide^ not exceeding' three feet^ prevented any search for marine species upon the reef. By dredg-ing*^ how- ever^ in some of the sandy channels among' the coral patches^ in two to three fathoms water^ some small MitrcDy Nasscc^ SuhulfSj and other interesting- shells w^ere procured^ but no zoophytes came up in the dredg'e^ and hardly any Crustacea. One can scarcely avoid taking" notice of the prodigious numbers of small hermit'CYdLhs ( Coenohita) tenanting' dead uni- valve shells^ and occm'ring- from the marg-in of the beach as far back as the centre of the islands^ where they are found even in the holes of decaying' trees at some heig'ht above the gTound. Dm'ing- om' stay at this anchorage the weather was fine for the first three days, but afterwards was usually hazy^ with strong* breezes from between east and south-east^ with squalls and occasional showers^ the thermometer rang-ing* between 72° and 85° — re- Sea. The family Sparidce is that best represented in the Louisiade Archipelago so far as I could judge, — three species of Pentapus numerically more than equal all the rest, and the next commonest fish is Diacope oeto-liaeata. NATIVES OF THE CALVADOS. 247 spectively the maximum and minimum temperature registered on board. We were frequently visited by canoes from the Calvados Islands. The parties of natives usually landed on one of the adjacent Duchateau Islands before communicating* with the ship^ and sometimes passed the nig-ht there before returning* on the fol- lowing- morning\ They broug'ht with them cocoa- nuts^ 3"ams^ and various other articles to barter with ; among- these were some productions of the country wliich I had not previously seen — Indian corn^ ging-er^ and sug-ar-cane. The canoes were of the common description^ with the exception of one of larg-e size^ closed at the bow and stern^ with a liig'h peak at each end^ a standing* mast^ larg*e oval sail^ and the platform entirely covered over.* Fcav addi- tional observations upon the natives were made here. On one occasion I procured a few words of their lang-uag-e^ all of which^ with one doubtful exception^ are similar to those formerly obtained at Brierly Island. At another time we saw squatted down in a canoe alongside^ with four men in it^ two female children about three 3^ears of ag*e^ quite naked^ with their hair twisted into long* yarn-like strands falling- over the shoulder* one of the two was a plump^ laug-hing*^ intellig-ent creature^ with fine features^ g-reat black eyes^ and long* silky eye-lasheo. At this place we had the misfortune to lose by death our carpenter^ Mr. Raymond. His remains * This is the caiios figured on p. 206. 248 DUPERRE ISLANDS. were interred on the larg*est of the islands^ in a clearing- made by the wood-cutters^ and as an addi- tional precaution^ for the purpose of concealing* the g-rave from the keen sight of the natives^ a larg-e fire was made upon it to efface all marks of the spade. Ang. Mil, — We left our anchorag-e this morning* for the Duperre Islands^ twenty-one miles to the westward^ and reached them before noon. On our way we passed in sig*ht of the Montemont and Jomard g-roups^ each consisting* of two low^ wooded islets^ similar to those which we had left. As the ship went along* she raised prodigious numbers of flying' fish in larg-e scholeS; closely watched by frigate-birds^ boobies^ and terns. The afternoon was ineffectually spent in searching* for an anchorage^ the pinnace and one of the cutters having* been sent in-shore for that purpose. In the evening* the anchor was let go after a cast of fifty fathomS; but slipped off the bank^ and had to be hove up again. In company with the Bramble we passed the night in standing off and on the islands^ directed by bright moonhght^ and a fire on the westernmost of the group which the pinnace's people had been sent in to make. The following day was spent in a similar manner^ and with the like result. The Bramble^ when ordered by signal to point out the anchorage which Lieut. Yule had found a week before^ at once passed through an opening* in the northern margin of the reef con- nected with the Duperre Isles^ and brought up in UNABLE TO FIND ANCHORAGE. 249 the smooth and moderately deep water inside, but it was not judg'ed safe for us to follow^ so the pinnace was hoisted in-board^ and the ship kept under weio-h all nio-ht. Aug. 6th, — We passed out to sea to the southward by a wide and clear channel between the Duperre and Jomard Islands. The former are five in num- ber^ all uninhabited^ small^ low^ and thickly covered with trees. They extend over a space of about six miles on the northern marg'in of a larg-e atoll or annular reef extending- eleven miles in one direction and seven in another^ with several openings leading* into the interior^ which forms a navigable basin afterwards called Bramble Haven. Inside the greatest depth found Avas twenty fathoms^ with numerous small coral patches shewing themselves so clearly as easily to be avoided^ — outside_, the water suddenly deepens to no bottom with one hundred fathoms of line^ at the distance of a mile from its edge. For several days we continued makino; traverses off and on the line of barrier reefs extendino* to the westward^ obtaining negative soundings^ and occa- sionally communicating by signal Avith the Bramble^ which was meanwhile doing the in-shore part of the Avork. The next islet seen Avas He Lejeune of D'Ur- ville, situated in lat. WlV S. and long. 15r 50' E., eio'ht miles to the AvestAvard of the nearest of the Duperre group^ Avith a Avide intervening passage. The sea face of the barrier noAV becomes continuous 250 WESTERN ISLANDS OF THE LOUISIADE. for twenty-one miles further^ its northern side broken into numerous opening's^ leading* into shoal water. It is^ in fact^ an elong-ated^ almost linear atoll; with islands scattered along- its sheltered marg-in. After this_, the barrier becomes broken up into a series of small reefs^ with passag-es between^ still preserving' a westerly trendy until it ends in long*. 150'' 58' E. Several small^ low islets are scattered along* its course ; of these the Sandy Isles come first; tlu*ee in number^ two of them mere sand- bankS; and the third thinly covered with trees^ apparently a kind of Pandanus. The neig-hbouring- Ushant Island (supposed to be that named He Ouessant by Bougainville) is larg*er and densely wooded; and still further to the westward we saw the two Stuers Islands^ also loW; and wooded. All those islets hitherto mentioned as occurrino* alono* the line of the barrier reef are of the same character; — loW; of coral formation; and generally wooded — and so are two others situated a few miles to the north- ward of the reef; and unconnected with it. These last are Kosmann Island; inlat. ll'' 4^' S. and long. 151° 33' E.; and Imbert Island; situated thirteen miles further to the westward. Aug, 11th, — To-day we came in sight of two groups of high rocky isleS; very different fi'om the low coral islets in the line of the barrier reef, which here ceases to shew itself above Avater. These are the Teste and Lebrun Islands of D'Urville; the latter two in number; and of small size (the western- AREIVE IN SIGHT OF NEW GUINEA. 251 most, in lat. 10^ 53' S. and long*. 150° 59' E.), the former, a g-roup of four, of which the largest measures two and a half miles in leng-th, while the smallest is a remarkable p}Tamidal projection, to Avhich the name of Bell Eock was g"iven,— this last is situated in lat. 10° 57^' S. and long-. 151° 2' E. Avg. 12th. — AVe saw in the distance part of the hig'h land of New Guinea in the neighbourhood of where its south-east cape has been conjectured to be, and approached within a few miles of the Dumoulin* Islands, a grouj) of four rocky isles, the westernmost of which is 400 feet high, and less than a mile in length ', there are besides five rocks, some of con- siderable size. The Dumoulin Isles are inhabited, and appear fertile, — they are tolerably well-wooded with small trees and a sprinkling of cocoa-palms. In standing' off for the night, the water suddenly shoaled from no bottom with 80 fathoms to casts of 16 and 12 fathoms, of coral, and sand and shells, and then deepened ag'ain as we went out. One is inclined to suspect that this may be a submarine extension of the barrier reef. The Bramble meanwhile had been ordered in to look for anchoraofe, and found it under the lee of the laro-est island in 25 fathoms. She remained in that neig'hbourhood for several days while we were beatino; about at sea. Several of the Dumoulin * The hydrographical engineer attached to D'Urville's last expedition, and the constructor of most of the charts pubUshed in the Hydrographical x\tlas of *' Voyage au Pole Sud, &c." 252 DUMOULTN ISLANDS. Islands proved to be inhabited^ and the natives exhibited no hostile feeling' towards the Bramble's people. A specimen of the rock^ taken from the shore and given me by Lieutenant Yule^ is a very curious siliceous breccia ; when viewed from the sea I had observed the cliffs to exhibit horizontal and vertical fissures — apparently lines of cleavage — as I had seen assumed on various occasions during our last cruize by granite and porph}Ty. This^ at least^ indicated a great approaching change in the geological structure of the New Guinea Islands^ contrasted with those of the Louisiade Group which had come under our observation. *■ •- CHAPTER VII. BRUMER TSLATfDS — CATAMARAJfS A:N'D CANOES — FRIEKDLT RELATIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NEW GUINEA — ARE WELL RECEIVED AT THEIR TILLAGE — TATOOING AND DRESS OF THE WOMEN — THE HUTS DESCRIBED — LARGE CANOE FROM THE MAINLAND — TASSAI LADIES RETURN OUR YISIT — THE NATIYES DESCRIBED — THEIR WEAPONS, ORNAMENTS, FOOD, ETC — CUL DE SAC DE l'oRANGERIE AND COMMUNICATION WITH THE NATIVES — RED SCAR BAT AND ITS INHABITANTS — LEAVE THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA AND ARRIVE AT CAPE fORK. August nth, — We are once more comfortably at anchor after many dreary days at sea of thick blowing' weather* spent in sailing* backwards and forwards^ daily tantalised by the sig-ht of land, which was approached only that we mig-ht stand off ag-ain for the night. Yesterday afternoon the Bramble was seen coming* out from under the largest of the Brumer Islands, and on her making* the usual signal for good anchorage, we followed * In working to the eastward (in June) Bougainville for four days had "the wind constantly blowing very fresh, at E.S.E. and S.E." (just as we found it) ** with rain ; a fog so thick that," says he, '* we were obliged to fire guns in order to keep company with the Etoile ; and lastly, a very great sea, which hove us towards the shore. We could hardly keep our ground by plying, being obliged to wear, and to carry but little sail." — Bougainville's Voyage round the World. Translation by Forster, p. 308. 254 BRUMER ISLANDS. her in and broug'lit up after sunset in 35 fathoms^ niud^ about a mile from the shore. The island under which we thus anchored^ is the westernmost and largest of a g-roup of five_5 the next in size being' about a mile in leng-th^ moderately hig'h and wooded^ and the remaining* three mere rocks. The larg*e Brumer Island is long- and nar- row^ running- E.N.E. and W.S.W.^ two miles and two-thirds in g-reatest width * it is situated in lat. 10*^ 45' 80" S. and long-. 150^ 23' E. The whole island presents a luxuriant appearance^ being- covered with cocoa-palms and other trees^ and on the high ground several large fenced enclosures of cultivated ground — where among other plants we could distmo'iiish the banana and suo-ar-cane — attested the fertility of the soil. The western^ and at present the leeward side of the island^ as viewed from our anchorage exhibits the appearance of a broken rido-e on its southern half with several eminences topped by immense detached blocks of rock^ partially concealed by the trees^ — to this^ in the centre^ succeeds a break occupied by a very low irreg-ular cliff behind a bay with a sandy beach_, — afterwards the land rises suddenly to form a hill^ G65 feet in height^ with a steep face to the north- west^ and a gradual slope backwards^ — and be^-ond this another hill; not so high (38 G feet); but some- what similar in form^ shut out our further view in that direction. The mainland of New Guinea filled the back ground with a broken outline of ridges of NATIVES AND CATAMARANS. 255 wooded hills alono- the coast in front of a more distant and nearly continuous rang-e of hig'h moun- tains covered with trees up to their very summits. Next morning* we were visited by a party of natives from the neio'hbourino' island, consistino* of OOP D six men in a canoe^ and one on a catamaran or raft. They were perfectly unarmed and came boldly along'side with a quantity of yams and cocoa-nuts for barter 3 when their stock Avas exhausted^ they returned for more^ and_, accompanied by others^ repeated the visit several times during* the day. Althouo'h there was no obvious difference between these natives and those of the southern portion of the Louisiade^ 3^et the catamaran was quite new to us^ and the canoe differed considerabl}^ from any which we had seen before. The first catamaran was only nine feet long*^ — it consisted of three thick planks lashed tog-ether^ formino- a sort of raft, which one man sittino- a little behind the middle^ with his leg's doubled under him^ manag-ed ver}^ dexterously with his paddle. AVe afterwards saw others of a larg-er size^ some of them capable of carrying* a dozen people with their effects. One of this description is made of three loo's — rarely two or four — laid side by side^ and firmlv secured to each other Avith strips of rattan at each end^ and in two or three other places. The upper surface is smoothed down flat; and the central piece projects a little way at each end which usually sheAvs some rude carving* touched up with red and o.^ oG CATAMARANS AND CANOES. white paint. As the sea washes over a catamaran during- rough weather^ on such an occasion a small temporary stage is sometimes erected in the centre^ and on this the cargo is secured witli strips of cane. The canoe of this part of New Guinea is usually about twenty-five feet in leng'th^ and carries seven or eight people. It is made of the trunk of a tree^ hollowed out like a long' trough^ roundly pointed at each end^ a foot and a half in extreme width, with the sides bulging out below and falling in at top^ leaving onlj" eight inches between the gunwales which are strengthened by a pole running along from end to end. The ends — which are alike — are carved like those of the catamaran in imitation of the head of a turtle or snake, but more elaborately. The outrigg'er consists of a float as long as the BEUMER ISLANDERS. 267 canoe^ attached by small sticks or peg's let into the wood to eig'lit or nine supporting* poles the inner ends of which rest in notches in both g*unwales^ and are secured there. A portion^ or the whole of this framework^ is carefully covered over with planks or long- sticks^ and occasionally a small stage is formed on the opposite side^ over the centre of the canoe^ projecting' a little outAvardly^ with room upon it for two people to sit and paddle. The canoes of this description which we saw were not provided with any other sail than a small temporary one^ made by interlacing* the leaflets of the cocoa-palm^ and stuck up on poles when going with the wind free. The paddles used here are similar in shape to those seen in the Louisiade Archipelag'O; with spear-shaped blades and slender handles^ but are larger— measuring" six feet in length — and of neater construction^ the end of the handle being- carved into some fanciful device. About sunset^ and when about to leave us^ one of the Brumer Islanders^ standing* on a large cata- maran alongside^ put himself into a grotesque atti- tude^ and commenced beating* with his hand upon a larg*e tin can which some one had given him^ at the same time g'oing throug-h some of the motions of a dance. He seemed to be a most amusing* vagabond^ for^ upon our drummer being* set to work in the chains^ after joining* with the other natives in the first exclamations of surprise^ he listened attentively for a little^ and then struck up on his o^^^n extempore VOL. I. s 258 NATIVES ON BOARD. drum^ keeping* very good time and causing' roars of laug-hter by his strang-e g-rimaces and antics. The effect of this pantomime was heightened by the style of painting' adopted b}^ the actor whose face had been blackened with charcoal, varieo*ated bv a white streak alono- the evebrows turned down at the ends, and another along the cheeks passing round the chin. Aug, IStJi. — The boisterous state of the weather did not prevent the natives from repeatedly coming* off to us with various articles of barter 3 and we were even visited by a party of seven men from Tissot Island^ who paddled up on a catamaran ^ye or six miles to windAvard ao'ainst a strong- breeze and cur- rent. After some little persuasion^ several of them were induced to come on board and were shewn round the ship, presented with various articles^ and dressed out with scraps of clothing' of every description. At iirst they shewed symptoms of uneasiness^ and made frequent protestations of friendships as if the circum- stance of our repeating' them g-ave increased confi- dence. Their mode of salutation or expression of friendship consists in first touching the nose with the forefinger and thumb of one hand^ and then pinching the skin on each side of the navel Avith the other^ calling out at the same time^ magdsuga I This habit resembles on one hand that of rubbino- noses, so general in Polynesia^ — and on the other^ the custom of pinching the navel and repeating the name for that part, practised b}^ the islanders of Torres Strait. At length our visitors AvithdreAV^ Avell pleased with their KIND ON THE LARGE BEUMER ISLAND. 259 reception^ during- which their common exclamation indicative of surprise and dehght^ an ad long* drawn out^ was in constant requisition. Avg. Idth. — A quantity of cooked yams in bas- kets and larg*e earthen pots was brought off to-day by a party of natives^ as if in acknowledgment of our civility to those whom we had imited on board yesterday. Nothings was asked for in return— a very unusual ciiTumstance^ — and that it was intended as a present was further shewn by their leaving a proportionate share on board the Bramble^ and im- mediately pushing' off for the Eattlesnake with the remainder^ explaining that it was intended for us and could not be sold. The weather beino- now favourable for communi- cation with the shore^ the two cutters were manned and armed for this purpose^ and sent away in charge of Lieut. Simpson^ and^ as usual^ I was one of the volunteers who joined the party. Two of the natives gladly went in one of the boats — the same two who had previously invited us on shore^ as if to return our hospitality and point out the fresh water about which we had made repeated inquiries^ our stock of that all-essential article being now much reduced^ and the ship's company on an allowance of six pints each per diem. We landed at a little bay near the centre of the western side of the nearest and largest of the Brumer group. Although perfectly sheltered from the wind; a heavy swell l)roke upon the marghi of a fringing coral reef running out fifty or sixty ^ o 260 FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 3^arcls fi'om the sandy beach and stretching' across the bay. The boats were backed in from their an- chors^ and^ after seven of us had got on shore by watching- an opportunity^ to jump out up to the middle in water^ and cross the reef^ hauled out again to await our return. Some women on the beach retired as we were about to land; but a number of boys and a few men received us^ and after a preliminary halt to see that our g-uns were put to rig'hts after the duckings we all started tog-ether by a narrow path winding* up a rug-g-ed wall of basaltic rock^ fifty feet in heig^ht. From the summit a steep declivity of a couple of hundred yards brought us to the villag'e of Tassai^ shaded by cocoa-nut trees^ and beautifully situated on a level space close to the beach on the windward side of the island^ here not more than a quarter of a mile in width. No canoes were seen here^ and a heavy surf broke on the outer margin of a fringing reef. On the outskirts of the village we met the women and remainder of the people^ and were received without any signs of apprehension. One of our friends immediately got hold of a drum* — a hollow cylinder of palm-wood two feet and a half in lengthy and four inches in diameter^ one end covered over with the skin of a large lizard^ — and commenced beating- upon it very vigorously v> ith the palm of the hand^ singing and dancing at the •■f Represented in the uppermost figure on next page. VILLAGE OF TASSAI. 261 same time^ as if in honour of our arrival. Each of us joined in the merriment as he came up^ and in a short time the whole of Tassai was in an uproar. Among' the natives every one seemed pleased^ bustlino- about, watchino- our motions, examinino- our dress^ and laug-hing- and shouting- immoderately as each new object was presented to his view. Meanwhile I w^andered about the villa g"e^ accom- panied by some women and children^ picking* up at the same time materials for my vocabulary. One old dame brouo'ht me a cocoa-nut shell full of water w hich I returned after drinking* some^ but she pressed me in a very motherly way to put it into my bag*^ having* doubtless imagined from our inquiries after water^ that even a little constituted a valuable present. We had seen neither stream nor well upon the island^ and besides^ it is probable that the gTeat abundance of cocoa-nuts enables them to subsist with very little water. We dis- tributed among' them some iron-hoop, knives, 262 PATTERNS OF TATOOING. fish-hooks^ and cahco^ to which I added a quantity of useful seeds^* which last were eag'erly soug'ht after when their use had been explained and under- stood. The women shewed an unsual amount of curiosity^ and were much pleased at the notice taken of them^ for^ on examining- the curious tatooing* of one^ others immediately pressed forwards to shew me theirs^ directing* particular attention to the difference of patterns. This practice of tatooing* the body — or marking* it with colouring* matter introduced into the skin by means of punctures or incisions — is rarely exhibited by the men^ and in them is usually confined to a few blue lines or stars upon the rig-ht breast j in some instances^ however^ the marking's consisted of a double series of larg-e stars and dots stretching* from the shoulder toward the pit of the stomach. Among* the women the tatooing* extends over the face^ fore part of the arms^ and whole front of body continued backwards a little way over the shoulders^ usually^ but not always^ leaving* the back untouched. The pattern for the body consists of series of vertical stripes less than an inch apart^ connected by zig*zag* and * Part of a large supply procured at Hobart Town by Capt. Stanley from the Government garden there. They were placed under my charge, and were sown wherever circumstances appeared favourable for their growth, chiefly on uninhabited islands, there seldom having been an opportunity of distributing them among the natives of the shores we visited. DRESS OF THE FEMALES. 203 other marking's^ — that o^er the face is more com- plicated^ and on the fore arm and Avrist it is frequently so elaborate as to assume the appearance of beautiful lace-work. Unlike the men — whose only article of dress con- sists of a small breech-cloth of pandanus leaf passing- between the leg's^ and secured before and behind to a strino- or other o-irdle round the waist — tlie females wear petticoats (noge) of the same leaf^ di^dded into lono' oTass-like shreds, reachino* to the knee. That worn by the g'irls consists merely of sing-le lengths made fast to a strino- Avhich ties round the Avaist ; but the Avomen wear a larg-er and thicker kind of petticoat^ composed of three layers of different de- g-rees of fineness and lengths^ forming- as many ^^' flounces/' the upper one of more finely divided stuffy neatly plaited above^ over a girdle of the same toug'h bark (harrai) used in making- their larg-er kinds of rope. Two or three of these petticoats are usually worn one over the other, and in cold or wet weather the outer one is untied and fastened round the neck^ covering- the upper part of the body like a cape or short cloak. The hair of the women is also usually but not invariably twisted up into ^^ tln-ums'' like those of a mop^ a style of dressing- it here pecu- liar to the female sex. Many pig-s were running- about the villag-e — small in size^ lean and long* leg'g*ed^ usually blacky A\ith coarse bristles — also two or three dog-s^ similar to those seen at Brierly Island. One young- woman 264 NATIVE HUTS. was seen carrying' about in her arms and fondling' a very young* pig* — an incident which afforded us as much amusement as a lady^s lap-dog"^ with one end of a ribbon round its neck and the other attached to a wasp-waisted damsel^ would have caused among' these utilitarian savag'es. The villag"e covers a space of about half an acre ; it consisted of tAventy-seven huts built at rig"ht angles to each other^ but without any other attempt at arrangement. These huts are of various sizes — the larg'est thirty-five feet long*^ twelve wide^ and twenty- five hig-h. All are constructed on a similar plan^ being* raised from the ground about four feet on posts, four^ fiYe, or six in number^ passing' through the same circular wooden discs seen at the Louisiade Archipelago^ intended^ I believe^ to keep out rats or other vermin. The sides and roof are continuous_, and slope sharply upwards^ giving' to an end view the appearance of an acute triangle^ while a side view exhibits a long ridg'e rising suddenly at each end to a point and descending by a straight line of gable. The roof is neatly and smoothly thatched with grass^ and the sides are covered in with sheets of a bark-like substance^ probably the base of the leaf of the cocoa-nut tree flattened out b}^ pressure. The entrance is at one end^ overhung b}^ the gable like a curtain^ Avith a small stage to ascend by. I did not examine the interior of the houses^ being' de- sirous to avoid any cause of offence by exhibiting too much pr3dng curiosity. From the accounts of RETURN TO THE BOATS. 265 others of the party it appears that there is a second partial floor above the principal one ; they saw larg'e bundles of spears stowed along- the sides of the hut which they looked into^ and some human skulls sus- pended near the entrance.* After a very short stay of a quarter of an hour only we returned by the path formerly taken^ accom- panied by about fifty men^ women^ and children^ and went on board the boats. During our visit we had met with the most friendly reception • no weapon of any kind was seen in the hands of the natives who at the same time probably thought us perfectly unarmed^ as they at first supposed our g'uns to be instruments for carrying* water in^ and we had no opportunity of shewing- the effects of fire-arms with- out involving" the risk of causing- a tumult. The anchor of one of the boats having- caug-ht the coral^ some delay was caused^ during- which an old man from the beach swam off to her^ as if he perfectly understood what had happened^ and^ after diving- several times^ cleared the anchor^ for which he was rewarded with an axe. His skill in diving- was re- markable^—he went down feet foremost^ apparently without an effort^ and after remaining- below about half a minute^ came up shewing- no signs of exhaus- * These huts resemble in form some found on the Duke of York and Bowditch Islands, in the western part of the Pacific, 300 miles to the northward of the Samoan group. — See Narrative of the United States' Exploring Expedition, vol. v. p. 7 ; also plate opposite p. 3. 266 AGAIN VISIT THE ISLAND. tion. But all these natives appeared to feel as much confidence afloat as on shore ; and we had frequent opportunities of observing" their fearlessness of the water^ and dexterity in swimming" and diving" when along-side the ship. Aug, 20tJi. — It being- considered probable that the natives mig'ht be induced to part with some of their pigs^ a party was sent on shore^ to endeavour to procm^e some by barter. On landings which was effected with much less difficulty than j^esterday (for it was now hig*h water^ enabling* the boats to g'o over the reef although heavy rollers were coming- in)^ we found that most of the men were absent^ and the few remaining*^ althoug-h made to understand what we wanted^ did not appear to like our paying- a visit to then' village^ as if suspicious of our inten- tions towards the women^ a circumstance which Em^opeans must always be on their guard ag-ainst in deahng with savage tribes. Our stay therefore was very short — not exceeding* five minutes^ — and on the way back^ besides picking- up a few scraps for my vocabulary from a number of women and children in company^ I procured a very fine white Helix from the branch of a bread-fi^uit tree^ and had a brief opportunity of examining the rock of the island. This is of volcanic origin^ and consists of a stratified earthy tufa and volcanic conglomerate^ hollowed out below by the sea^ succeeded by a harder vesicular rock above which one of the forms of lava has been poured out. LARGE CANOE. 2G7 On our return to the beach we found that scarcely any bartering- had g-one on^ and that the exliibition of a number of axes and knives^ had been attended with the bad effect of exciting- the cupidity of the natives. Soon afterwards a canoe with people from the mainland arrived^ and as anything- but g-ood feeling- appeared to subsist^ and we had failed in our object of g*etting- the pigs^ we left for the ship— and this was our last communication with the shore during- our stay at this anchorage. Aug. 22ncL — The most interesting' occurrence of the day was the arrival from the main of a very larg-e canoe^ with twenty-six people on board.* When close to she shortened sail and attempted to paddle up^ but being- too unwield}^ to stem the cm*- rent^ the end of a rope from the ship was carried out to her and she hauled up under our stern and made fast there. Besides the ordinary paddles we observed at each end two others of large size — pro- bably used for steering- with, pulled as oars^ with cane g-romets on the gunwale. We had not before seen so fine a sample of Papuans ; several were elderly men of fine figure and commanding- appear- ance. One man among- them who sat alone upon a small raised stage over the platform appeared to exercise a considerable degree of authority over the rest y the only instance yet seen by us^ either here or at the Louisiade^ of any one assuming- the functions * Represented in the frontispiece. 268 DESCEIPTION OF CANOE. of a chief. He called a small canoe along'side^ and g'etting' under the mizen chains attempted to climb up at once^ and appeared surprised that the privilege of coming* on board denied to the other natives was not immediately extended to him. He was^ how- ever^ accidentally allowed to come up the side and remain on deck for a short time. He was a tall slender man^ of about forty years of ag-e^ with sharp Jewish features^ — his face and chest were painted blacky and he wore a crest of cassowary feathers across his head. This larg-e canoe measured about forty feet in lenoi:h, and was constructed of a hollowed out tree raised upon with larg'e planks forming* a long* coffin- like box^ closed with hig'h end boards eleg-antly carved and painted. Two rows of carved fishes ran along* the sides^ and both ends were peaked^ the bow rising* hig*her than the stern^ and^ like it^ but more profusely^ decorated with car\dng' painted red and white^ streamers of palm-leaf, eg'g*-cowries^ and plumes of cassowary feathers. The outrig'g*er frame work was completely covered over^ forming* a larg*e platform above the centre of which a small stag*e rested on a strong* projecting* beam the outer end of which was carved into the fig'ure of a bird^ while the inner reached to the centre of the body of the canoe^ and served to support the mast. The planks forming* the sides were strong*ly supported by knees where each of the ten or twelve outrig'g'er poles passes through one side and rests against the other^ NUMEROUS VISITOES TO THE SHIP. 2C)d and some loose bottom boards form a partial shifting" deck. The mast is supported above by two stays fore and aft^ and below steps into a massive bent timber crossing* the centre of the canoe^ resting* on the bottom^ and is secured above to the inner end of the long- cross beam by strong" lashing-s^ and some larg'e wedges between it and one side. The sail is of gTeat size^ behig as long- as the platform^ but both in construction and mode of manag'ement is pre- cisely similar to that formerly described with refer- ence to a canoe seen at Coral Haven^ supposed to have come from Piron's Island. A few days ag'o we saw another canoe closely resembling- the above mentioned^ but much smaller and carrying- only eleven people. It exhibited^ however^ one peculiarity in the g-reat breadth of beam amidships — amounting- to four feet — which g-ave it much room for stowag-e and additional buoyancy. Of late the number of natives daily coming- off to the ship has rapidly increased, so as now to amount to upwards of 100 in about 15 canoes and cata- marans. Those from Tissot Island and the main- land usually arrive in the forenoon^ and^ after an hour's stay^ leave us for the northern villag-e on the nearest Brumer Island^ Avhere they spend the the nig'ht and return the next morning- a\ itli a fair wind. The noise and scrambling- along-side when bartering- is g'oing- on baffles all description^ — besides the usual talking' and shouting-^ they have a 270 MODE OF BARTERING. sino'ular habit of directinsf attention to tlieir wares by a loud^ sharp ss, ss^ a kind of hissing* sound^ equivalent to ^^ look at this/' In their barg-aining* the natives have g*enerally been very honesty far more so than our own people whom I have fre- quently seen cheating* them by passing- off scraps of thin worthless iron^ and even tin and copper^ for pieces of hoop^ the imposition not being- found out until the property has chang-ed hands. As at the Louisiade iron hoop is the article most prized by the natives^ and is valued according* to its width and thickness as a substitute for the stone-heads of their axes. They also shewed great eag*erness to obtain our hatchets and hsh-hooks^ but attached little value to calico^ althoug-h a g'audy pattern^ or brig-ht colour^ especially red^ was sure to arrest attention* but in such matters they are very capricious. Even g*lass bottles were prized^ probabl}^ as a substitute for obsidian or volcanic g*lass^ portions of which I saw among* them^ used in shaving*^ as was explained to me^ and pro- bably also for carving* in wood. Aug. 2ofh. — Yesterda}' and to-day^ in addition to upwards of a hundred natives alongside bartering*^ we were honom*ed with visits from several parties of the Tassai ladies^ in whose favour the prohibition to come on board was repealed for the time. The young* women were got up with greater attention to dress and finery than when seen on shore^ and some had their face blackened as if to heio-hten their attractions. The outer petticoat^ worn on gala days such as this^ NATIVE LADIES ON BOARD. 271 differs from the common sort in being* much finer in texture and workmanship^ besides being- dyed red and green^ with intermediate bands of straw colour and broad Avhite stripes of pahn-leaf. It is made of long- bunches of very lig'ht and soft shreds^ like fine twisted g'rass^ apparently the prepared leaf of a calamus or rattan. None of the women that I saw possessed even a moderate share of beauty (according- to our notions) althoug'h a few had a pleasing* expression and others a ver}' g-raceful fig-ure^ but^ on the other hand_, man}' of the boys and young* men were striking-ly handsome. We had no means of forming- a judg*- ment reo-ardino- the condition of the ^\-omen in a social state^ but they appeared to be treated by the men as equals and to exercise considerable influence over them. On all occasions they Avere the loudest talkers^ and seemed to act from a perfect rig'ht to have every thing* their own wa}^ It is worthy of mention^ that^ even in their oaaii villag-e^ and on all other occasions Avhere we had an opportunity of observing* them^ they acted with perfect propriety_, and althouo-h some indecent allusions were now and then made by the men, this was never done in the presence of the women. Of their marriages Ave could find out nothing*^— one man appeared to have two Avives^ but even this Avas doubtful. The circum- stance of children being- daily brought off' by their fathers to look at the ship^ and the strange things there^ indicated a considerable degree of parental affection. 212 NATIVE DANCES. lieturning' to our visitors : — the fiddle^ fife^ and drum ^vere put in requisition^ and a dance g-ot up to amuse them. The women could not be persuaded to join^ but two of the men treated us to one of theu' own dances^ each having- been previously furnished with a native drum or baiaffi. Thev advanced and retreated tog-ether by sudden jerks^ beating* to quick or slow time as required^ and chaunting* an accom- panying- song'^ the cadence rising* and falling- accord- ing* to the action. The attitude was a sing*ular one — the back straig'ht^ chin protruded^ knees bent in a crouching* position^ and the arms advanced; on another occasion^ one of the same men exhibited himself before us in a war dance. In one hand he held a larg*e Avooden shield^ nearly three feet in leno'th and rather more than one in width, and in the other a formidable looking* weapon two feet in leng'th — a portion of the snout of a saw-iish with long- sharp teeth projecting* on each side. Placing- himself in a crouching* attitude^ with one hand covered by the shield^ and holding* his weapon in a position to strike^ he advanced rapidly in a succession of short bounds^ striking- the inner side of the shield with his left knee ateach jerk^ causing* the larg*e cowries hung- round his waist and ankles to rattle violentlv. At the same time Avith fierce o-estures he loudlv chaunted a song- of defiance. The remainder of the panto- mime was expressive of attack and defence^ and exultation after victory. But a still more curious dance was one performed a few nig-hts ag-o by a party ONE REMAINS ON JJOARD. 2?3 of natives wliich had left the ship after sunset and landed abreast of the anchorao'e. On seeing- a number of lig'hts along* the beach^ we at first thoug-ht they proceeded from a fishing* party^ but on looking* throug*h a nig-ht-g'lass^ the g'roup was seen to con- sist of above a dozen people^ each carrying* a blazing* torch, and o-oino* throuo'h the movements of a dance. At one time they extended rapidly into line^ at another closed^ dividing* into two parties^ advancing* and retreatino- crossino- and re-crossino-, and mixing* up with each other. This continued for half an hom*^ and having* apparently been g*ot up for our amuse- ment^ a rocket was sent up for their's^ and a blue- lig'ht burned^ but the dancing* had ceased, and the lig'hts disaj^peared. In the evenino- when the natives were leavino* for the shore^ one of them volunteered to remain on board on the understandino- that some of us should accompany him to Tassai^ where^ he exj)lained^ there would be plenty of dancing* and eating*^ enumerating* pig's^ dog's^ yams^ and cocoa-nuts^ as the component parts of the feast. He was taken doAvn to the wardroom^ and shortly underwent a complete meta- morphosis^ effected by means of a reg*atta shirt of g'audy pattern^ red neckcloth^ flannel trousers^ a faded drab ^^Tao-lioni" of fashionable cut buttoned up to the throaty and an old black hat stuck on one side of his Avoolly head. Every now and then he renewed his invitation to g'o on shore^ but was satisfied when o-iyen to understand that our visit VOL. I. t 2?4 NATIVE SONG. must be deferred till the morrow. He was a merry, active^ g-ood-humoured fellow^ and g'ave us a number of song's^ one of which I wrote down. Although unfortunately I cannot g-ive an accompanying- translation^ yet this song- exhibits the remarkable softness of the lang-uag-e from the great number of vowels. Ama watuya boyama Manyiire gerri gege iidaeno Dagi ginoa dagi gino ama Watu yebbo. Manyure gerri gege udaeno Dagi'egino da' gino ama Watu yebbo — watu yebbo. Most of them — perhaps all — were extempore^ as on turning* his attention to the moon_, he struck up a sonof in which the name of that body was fre- quently mentioned. He was treated to an exhibition of the magic lantern in the cabin by Capt. Stanley^ and a rocket was sent up to his great astonishment and admiration^ which he found words to express in ^' kaiwa^^ (fire) '^ kaiwa, oh! dim dim T Aug. 2QtJi,— Our guest became very uneasy when he saw no canoes from the island coming ofF^ and no symptoms of lowering a boat to land him. His invitation to the shore and pantomime of killing a pig were repeated time after time^ and he became very despondent. Two canoes from the mainland came along'side^ and he got into one which shoved off, but quickly returned and put him on board^ as they were not g'oing to the island. The poor fellow PECULIARITIES OF THE PAPUANS. 2?5 at last appeared so miserable^ beino^ actually in tears^ that a boat was sent to put him on shore abreast of the ship, and, when he landed, two young- women and a child came running* up to meet him. A number of natives on the sandy beach were anxi- ously watching- the boat, as if the long- detention of the man on board the ship had made them suspicious of our treatment of him. Without entering- into details of uninteresting- daily occurrences^ I may here give a g-eneral ac- count of such circumstances re^-ardino* the natives as have not previously been alluded to or insuffi- ciently described. It would be difficult to state the peculiarities of this portion of the Papuan* Race (including- also the inhabitants of the Louisiade) for even the features exhibit nearly as many differences as exist among- a miscellaneous collection of indi- viduals of any European nation. They appear to me to be resolvable into several indistinct types, with intermediate g-radations ; thus occasionally we met with strong-ly marked Neg-ro characteristics, but still more frequently with the JcAvish cast of features, while every now and then a face presented itself which struck me as being- perfectly Malayan. In g-eneral the head is narrow in front, and wide and * As the term Papuan when appHed to a Race of Mankind is not strictly correct, I may here mention that whenever used in this work, it includes merely the woolly or frizzled haired inhabitants of the Louisiade, S.E. coast of New Guinea, and the islands of Towes Strait. T 2 276 COLOUE OF THE HMR AND SKIN. very hig^li behind^ the face broad from the great projection and heig'ht of the cheek bones and de- pression at the temples j the chin narrow in front^ shg'htlj receding"^ with prominent angles to the jaw ; the nose more or less flattened and widened at the wing's^ with dilated nostrils^ a broad^ slig'htl}' arched and gTadually rounded bridg^e^ pulled dov/n at the tip b}'' the use of the nose-stick 3 and the mouth rather wide^ with thickened lips^ and incisors flat- tened on top as if ground down. Althouo'h the hair of the head is almost invariablv woolly^ and^ if not cropped close^ or shaved^ frizzled out into a mop^ instances were met with in which it had no woolly tendency^ but was either in short curls^ or long* and soft without conveying any harsh feeling to the touch. In colour too it varied^ although usually blacky and when long^ pale or reddish at the tips ;* yet some jDcople of both sexes were observed having it naturally of a bright red colour^ but still woolly. The beard and moustache^ when present^ which is seldom the case^ are alwa3^s scanty^ and there is very little scattered hair upon the bod}^ The colour of the skin varies from a lio-ht to a dark copper colour^ the former being the prevailing* hue y individuals of a light yellowish brown hue are often met with^ but this colour of the skin is not accompanied by distinctive features. * Probably artificially produced, as is known to be effected by means of lime water, by the inhabitants of the north-west coast of New Guinea. STATURE AND STRENGTH. 277 The averag-e stature of these Papuans is less than our own^ being- only about five feet four inches 3 this did not appear to be the case when seen along*- side^ but on board the ship^ and especially when clothed^ the difference became very apparent. Al- thoug-h well made^ and far surpassing* us in ag'ility^ they were our inferiors in muscular power. Their streng'th was tested by means of a deep-sea lead weig-hing- twenty-two pounds which none of the natives could hold out at arm^s leng'th^ althoug*h most of us who tried it experienced no difficulty in sustaining^ the weig'ht for a few seconds. Among* the people who came along'side the ship one day we noticed two cases of that kind of elephantiasis called ^^ Barbadoes Leg'/' in one com- bined with enormous distention of the scrotum^ which was larg-er than a man's head^ and studded with warts. One of these unfortunate objects had both leg's much swollen^ especially about the ankle^ where the skin was almost obliterated by larg-e scab- like warts^ the other^ besides the diseased leg*^ had a huofe tumour on the inner side of the rio-ht thio-h. The weapons procured at this place consist of spears^ clubs^ a wooden sword^ and a shield. Of the first tliere are several kinds^ all larg-er and heavier than those obtained at the Louisiade^ but^ like tliem^ made of hard^ heavy^ well polished cocoa- nut wood. The spears vary in leng-th from nine to eleven feet^ with a diameter^ where thickest^ of rather more than an inch. From their g-reat weig'ht 278 WEAPONS. it would scarcely be possible to throw them with eifect to a greater distance than fi^om fifteen to twenty 3 ards^ and^ judging' from the signs and g-estures of the natives on various occasions when explaining* their mode of warfare^ they are also used for charging* and thrusting* with^ the neighbourhood of the armpit being the part aimed at as most vulnerable. The spear in most common use tapers to a point at each end, more suddenly in fi'ont and very gra- dually behmd w here it usually terminates in a small knob with two or three ornamental rings. Some- times a gromet^ or ring* of cordage^ is worked upon the spear near one end^ to prevent the hand slipping when making a thrust. There are many other kinds of spears variously barbed on one or both sides near the head. The fishing* spear is usually headed by a bundle of about four or six slender, sharp pointed pieces of wood, two feet in leng*th; sometimes barbed at the point. We obtained three clubs here— the only ones seen — one, closely resembling* the stone-headed club of Darnley Island, consists of a wooden shaft, four feet long^ sharp pointed at one end and at the other passing through a hole in the centre of a sharp-edged circular disk of quartz, shaped like a quoit, four inches in diameter ; the second is twenty-seven inches in length, cut out of a heavy piece of wood^ leaving a slender handle and cylindrical head, three and a half inches long, studded with knobs; the WEAPONS. 279 Spears, Shield, Basket, and Comb. New Guinea. 2S0 ORNAMENTS. remainino- one^ a less formidable weapon than the others^ is flat on both sides^ with a serrated edg*e^ and measures twentj^-two inches in leng'th and three in width. The ornaments worn on this part of the coast are in g-eneral so precisely similar to those of the Louis- iade^ already- described^ that a brief allusion to them is sufficient. In both places we saw the same nose- sticks^ combs stuck in the hair^ flat circular earring's^ woven and shell armlets^ round ornaments made of melon shelly necklaces of dog-'s teeth and black seeds^ and white cowries strung* round the leg's^ arms^ and neck. I observed here none of the human jawbones worn as bracelets so frequently met with in the Louisiade^ nor did painting* the body appear to be carried to the same extent^ althoug"h the mode of doing* so was the same. Here too we sometimes saw the hair collected and twisted behind into a single or double queue^ and procured a neatly con- structed bush}' wig' of frizzled hair. A g'irdle of split rattan wound about a dozen times round the waist is in common use here^ but I do not recollect having" seen it in the Louisiade. Among* other articles of native manufacture I ma}^ mention larg'e baked earthen pots* used in cooking*^ also very neatly made round flat-bottomed baskets in sets of four^ partially fitting* into each other_, with a woven belt to suspend them from the * Similar to that figured on p. 261. MANUFACTURES. 281 shoulders by^ — in these various small articles are carried^ among* them the spatula and calabash^ with lime to be used in betel chewinof — and a netted baof, a foot and a half in width and one in depth. Their rope is beautifully made of the long* toug'h stringy bark of a tree^ strong-ly twisted and laid up in three strands^ and for finer lines and twine a kind of flax, resembling' the New Zealand^ but still more the Manila sort^ is used here. The finest sample of the prepared material which I saw measm'ed eleven feet in leng'th^ and consisted of a bundle of rather fine white fibres. Althoug'h very much coarser than our hemp^ it is of nearly uniform size^ and possesses considerable strength^ but breaks easily when knotted. We saw it in considerable quantity^ but had no means of ascertaining* the plant from which it is derived^ probably^ however^ a banana of some kind. We occasionally saw pieces of a white soft papery cloth^ apparently similar to the tapa of Polynesia^ and like it made of the inner bark of some small tree^ but it did not appear to be applied to much use. In the Louisiade we had not observed the betel pepper^ but here it was found in common use — both the leaf and g'reen fruit_, especially the latter^ being* added to the lime and areca-nut. Still betel chew- ing*^ although a very g-eneral habit^ is by no means universally practised^ for many elderly people re- tained the original whiteness of the teeth. By the males it appears to be adopted only after attaining* 2S2 MUSICAL INSTEUMENTS. the state of manhood, and among* the females is ahnost enth^ely confined to the old women. The fondness of these people for flowers and strong--scented plants is remarkable^ — they wear them in their hair^ thrust under the armlets and g'irdle^ or as g'arlands round the neck. Among the chief favourites may be mentioned an amaranth with purple leaves^ giving* out a very rich colour upon pressure being* applied^ and a species of mint- like herb which they dry in bunches^ and carry about with them. In addition to the drum formerly mentioned^ and large shells — Cassis or Triton — with a hole at one end^ used as trumpets^ we saw a small Pandean pipe made of portions of reed of different lengths^ and a tube of bamboo^ two feet long*^ which gives out a sound Hke a horn when blown into. The staple article of food is the yam^ which is produced here in great abundance^ of large size^ and excellent quality. Several other tubers^ or roots^ are eaten. Among* them is that of a species of Calladimn^ which requires much cooking to destroy its acridity. The cocoa-nut tree grows everywhere. In the canoes we saw abundance of sugar-cane in pieces two feet in length and an inch in thickness^ and the natives brought off to us bananas^ bread- fruity mangoS; and prepared arrow-root. To a cer- FOOD. 288 tain extent also the natives feed upon iish^ judging from the nets and fishing'-spears seen among- them. The former^ althoug-h frequently thirty or forty feet in leng-th^ did not exceed eig'hteen inches in depth^ — they have small meshes^ thin triang'ular wooden floats, and shells at the bottom as sinkers. Althouo-li we saw many pig's on shore in the villag-e^ only one was obtained by barter^ in this one a spear wound behind the shoulder was made along-side the ship before handing- it on board^ but for what purpose we could not understand^ as it did not kill the animal. Dog-s also I have reason to believe are occasionally eaten^ but whether cannibalism is ever practised by these people is a question which we have not the means of settling'^ as no evidence bearing- upon the point could be obtained. August 29th, — During- our stay of thirteen days at this anchorag-e the wind has usually been strong- fi'om East to E. S. E.^ with dull^ g-looni}^^ squally weather^ and occasionally showers of drizzling- rain. To-day^ however^ the rain was so heavy that we caug-ht seven tons in the awning*. To this haziness^ which by obscuring- distant objects was unfavourable for surveying purposes^ we owed our long' detention here. As our intercourse with the shore was limited to the two brief visits formerly -mentioned^ I made no addition to the collection^ with the exception of a solitary Helix^ nor was anything of zoological interest brought off by the natives^ except a string of heads of a species of hornbill {Buceros plicatus), and fea- 284 LEAVE THE BEUMEE ISLANDS. thers of a cassowary^ a scarlet lory^ and a few other bii'ds. No fish were caug-ht at the anchor ag-e^ pro- bably on account of the nature of the bottom — a tenacious_, g'reenish^ muddy clay — and the streng'th of the current which prevented our Imes from restmg- on the bottom. Observations made with the lead along"side at the time of hig'h and low water indicated by the shore shewed in thirteen days' observations a rise and fall of only from two to six feet. Neither during' the ebb nor the flood tide was there any appreciable difference in the direction of the current at our anchorag*e which set constantly to the west- ward between AVest and W. S. W.^ at the rate of fi'om one to one-and-a-half knots an hour. This cur- rent may reasonably be conjectm^ed to come from the northward and sweep round the S. E. cape of New Guinea (distant from this anchorag-e about fifty miles)^ thus making* it appear probable that a clear passag'e exists between the S. E. extreme of New Guinea and the western termination of the Louisiade Archipelag'o : indeed so far as Lieut. Yule's obser- vations were carried in this direction no reefs were seen to impede his progTess to the north-east. Sept. 4:th. — Five daj^s ag'o we sailed from the Brumer Islands^ and continued running lines of sounding's off and o-n the coast^ the in-shore details being- left as usual to the Bramble. On one occa- sion^ while within a few miles of the shore^ the water suddenly shoaled to twelve^ ten_, and six fathoms^ rock or coral^ althoug-h half an hour before no ANCHOR OFF DUFAURE ISLAND. 28^ bottom could be g'ot with a hundred fathoms of line^ — apparently an indication of a submarine barrier^ more or less continuous, running- at a variable distance from the shore^ and following- the g*eneral trend of the coast. The appearance of the land seen lately is very fine : the coast beino- backed by rano-es of high mountains presenting* a ver}^ diversified out- line y one of them^ named upon the chart Cloudy Mount^ attains an elevation of 4477 feet. Yester- day and to-day g-reat numbers of a storm petrel ( Thalassidroma leucogastra) have been folio ^^'ing• in our wake. This afternoon^ Avhile off the eastern end of the bay called by Boug*ainville the '' Cul de sac de FOrang-erie/' the Bramble was sig-nalled to lead in towards the land off which we anchored at 9 p.m. in 30 fathoms. From our anchorao*e we next morninof saw on Dufaure Island^ from which we were distant about three miles, a villag'e in a gTove of cocoa-nut trees behind a sandy beach^ and the natives came off in considerable numbers bring'ing* larg'e quantities of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit ^* they did not appear hovrever to have any yams. Two or three small pig's^ of the same description as that hitherto seen (Sus Paptiensis), were procured ; and Ave obtained t^^■o fine live opossums^ of a rare and sing-ular kind (Cuscus 7naculahis), for an axe a-piece. They ap- * This was of smaller size than it attains in the Soutli Sea Islands ; we cooked it in various ways but failed to make it palatable. 286 OBTAIN TWO OPOSSUMS. peared to be quiet g-entle animals^ until much irri- tated^ when they bite hard. We fed them at first on ripe cocoa-nuts^ of which they were very fond ^ but hitterly they became accustomed to pea-soup. They spent most of the day in sleep in a corner of the hen-coop where they were kept^ each on its haunches with the tail coiled up in front^ the body arched^ and the head covered by the fore paws and doubled down between the thighs ^ at nighty how- ever^ they were more active and restless^ their larg-e reddish yellow eyes being- then obscured by the dilated pupil^ which during* the day appears as a narrow vertical line. One was frequently taken on deck towards evening- and allowed to climb about the rig'g-ing-^ moving- very slowly^ and endeavouring- to g*et up as hig-h as possible. The natives resemble those seen at Brumer islands (from which we were distant about thirty-six miles) so closely that I saw no points reg'arding* them deserving- of separate notice^ and their lang-uag-e is the same^ judg'ing- from a small vocabulary of about seventy words. The onh^ manufactured article new CUL DE SAC DE l'oRANGERIE. 287 to US was a small wooden pillow* about a foot long- and six inches hig'h^ with a slig-ht concavity above to receive the neck of the person using* it. Both women and children came off with the men to traffic with us and look at the ship^ but none could be tempted to come on board^ althoug*h they paddled up along-side without the slig-htest hesita- tion. AVe were frequently solicited to accompany them on shore^ but no one was allowed to leave the ship. The northern shores of the Cul de Sac are low and wooded^ forming- an extensive tract of level land stretching* backwards towards the mountains^ with a larg-e opening* at its eastern end^ which is probably the mouth of a g-reat river. The Bramble was sent to examine this bay^ but the shoalness of the water^ and the unfavourable nature of the weather pre- vented the completion of this work. During* her absence a larg*e canoe was seen in the bay^ differing- from all those hitherto observed in having- a trian- g*ular or latteen sail set Avith the apex downwards^ thus resembling- those in use on the north coast of New Guinea, among" some of the Malay Islands, and those of the Viti Archipelag'o. The weather, since leaving* Brumer Islands, has usually been g-loomy, with frequent rain, occasionally very heavy, and a close mug-g-y feeling- in the atmos- phere as if one were living* in a vapour bath ; the * Wooden pillows are also in use in some of the islands of Polynesia and in New Caledonia. 288 APPEARANCE OF THE COAST. temperature on board ship rang-ed between 72'' and 83*'. During our five days' sta}^ oiF Dufaure Island we were daily employed in catching' rain water for ship's use^ being* on reduced allowance of that necessar}^ article. The wind throug-hout has been steady at S.E.^ occasionally var^^ing* a point or two towards east. Sept. IStJi, — For the last three days the coast has appeared as a strip of low land^ backed by mountain rano-es of moderate elevation.* We observed several opening's^ apparently creeks or mouths of rivers^ and saw much smoke and some canoes^ but our dis- tance from the shore w^as too gTeat to allow of com- munication. In the evening* we stood off to seaward^ and during' the nig-ht^ while trying* to avoid it^ 23ro- bably j^assed o^ er the assigned position of a reef laid down on one of the charts as having* been seen in 1804^ but A^ ithout being' able to confirm or disprove its existence.! * From the haze involving distant objects — less frequent (as we afterwards had reason to believe) during the westerly monsoon — the much higher Owen Stanley Range was not then visible ; it had also, probably from the same cause, quite escaped the notice of D'Urville who passed this portion of the coast at the distance of about eight or nine miles. t Although this reef does not exist in the position assigned to it, I may state that its presence upon the charts rests upon the authority of Coutance ; Freycinet, rejecting Coutance's longitude of Cape Deliverance and adopting that of D'Entrecasteaux, has laid down the reef in question as bearing W.S.W, from Point Hood, at a distance of twelve leagues. Another but smaller reef is stated on the same autliority to exist five leagues S.E. | E. from Cape Rodney. PASSAGE ALONG THE COAST. 289 Sept. 19tJt. — Passed Mount Astrolabe^ a series of long' liat-topped ridg-es parallel with the coast^ but were unable clearly to identify the Cape Passy of D'Urville where his running* survey terminated^ and Avhere the Astrolabe and Zelee bore away to the westward for Torres Strait. Sept, 20th. — During* the forenoon the Bramble was observed to windward^ and in the afternoon she was sent in-shore to look for anchorao-e. Follo^^'ino• her we stood in towards a remarkable headland (SG-j feet hig'h) which afterwards received the name of Bedscar Head^ from the reddish colour of its cliffs. At the distance of six and a half miles from the shore we struck soundings in twenty-seven fathoms^ and soon afterwards crossed a narrow ridge of coral^ with only five fathoms over it j after this the bot- tom consisted of tenacious mud^ and we carried in from twenty-two to eighteen fathoms^ in the last of Avhich we anchored two miles and tAvo-thirds off the point. When Lieut. Yule came on board we heard that since we left the Bramble near Dufaure Island to do the in-shore work, he had on one occasion an affray with the natives in the neighbourhood of the Toulon Islands. When the Bramble Avas nearly becalmed close in-shore^ several canoes with about thirty people^ including* several women and children^ came off to barter. A small pig* was handed up * As has often happened the bone of contention did not rest with the belhge rents, for tlie pig was eventually handed over to mc VOL. I. U 290 BEAMBLE FIEES ON THE NATIVES. into the chains^ but^ owing^ to an unavoidable occur- rence^ no return was made for it^ upon which the owner snatched the cap from off the head of a marine attending- at the g'angway. The canoe which had broug'ht the pig' then shoved off, and^ on bein^ directed b}^ g'estures to return the cap^ one man stood up and poised his spear^ and the others g'ot their arms ready. Several musket shots were fired into the canoe from a distance of six or seven yards^ but^ reg'arding* the effect^ conflicting' statements have been made. No resistance was attempted, as, after the first shot, some of the natives jumped into the water and all made off in confusion, which was fin'ther increased when a round shot was fired in the direction of a distant canoe comino- out from the shore. SejH, 21st. — Took a passag-e in a boat sent with Lieut. Simpson to g'et a round of angies on one of three neig'hbouring' islands (afterwards called Pari- wara, the native name), situated two miles and a half N.W. from Eedscar Point, with which they appear formerl}^ to have been continuous, and, like it, are remarkable for their red and white cliffs. The larg-est, that on which we landed, is only three- fourths of a mile in leng-th. In shape it is somewhat triangnilar : one side is formed b}^ a rounded ridg-e, the hig'hest point of which is 234 feet in heig-ht, with irregular cliffs along the sea margin* the opposite and prepared as a specimen, now in the British Museum, the only Sus Papuensis in England at the present time. PARIWARA ISLAND. 291 aiig'le is occupied by a rounded hill projecting- as a headland with rocky cliffs ; and these two opposite portions are connected by low land forming- a sandy beach on two of the sides. The island is covered with long- coarse grass g-rowing- in tufts j there are also some pandanus trees of two kinds (P. spiralis and P. pechmculata)y and some low brush of stunted bushy treeSj their tops matted together^ and indi- cating- by the direction in which their branches are bent that the prevailing- wind is from the south-east. Strictly speaking-, there is no soil upon the island : what may, however, be considered as such consists of the disintegrated calcareous rock, on the low part mixed up with sand. This rock, acted upon b}^ the weather, has a tendency to fall down in larg-e masses, leaving cliffs, steep and rug-g-ed in some places and smooth in others^ in colour it varies from Avhite to red, and is usuall}^ of a light pink. Behind one of the beaches, a few feet distant from high water mark, I observed a bank twelve feet high of slightly agglutinated coral sand in parallel beds, mixed up with large depositions of weather-^^'orn shells: Tridacna^ Ilipjwpus, Stromhvs, ^•^., all of species now living* on the reef. At one end this deposit appears to have been tilted up, forming- a slight ridge stretching- across the low part of the island. The shores in some places are fringed with coral conglomerate composed of shells and sand, fragments of coral, and rolled pieces of rock from above. The reef surrounding- the islands does not u2 292 PARIWAEA ISLANDS. diy at low water^ and in crossing- it in the boat very little live coral was observed^ except on the outer maro'iii, outside of which the bottom is a tenacious raud^ effervescing" on the application of hydrochloric acid. I collected a few plants^ among which are a 3^ellow flowered Cleome^ a purple Pongamia^ ConvoU villus multivalvisy Evolvulus mllosuSy Guettarda speciosaj ^'c. The only birds seen were a white- headed eagle and an osprey^ neither of which were molested although the latter frequently came within shot; and followed me as if from motives of curiosity. Almost the only insects seen were small g'rass- hopperS; rising' in numbers at every step^ and gTeen ants which have nests in the bushes^ and appear identical with those of the Louisiade and Australia. No fresh water was found here. Some recent traces of natives were met with — includino- two fire places where turtle and fish had been cooked on a fi'amework of sticks over a fire^ — precisely similar to one of large size^ formerly seen on the Duchateau Islands. I saw many places where turtle eg'gs had been dug* out of the sand behind the beach; where besides were numerous burrows of a maritime crab [Ocypocle cursor), which also appeared to feed upon the eg'gs— judging* from the quantity of empty shells about the holes of those creatures. Of the two remaining- islands of the gToup^ one^ less than a quarter of a mile long*; is covered with PARIWARA ISLANDS. 293 trees^ probably a Bomhax or JSrytJtrina^ — at this time destitute of leaves^ — on the other is a hig-h bare rock with three other small detached^ needle-shaped ones lying' off it. The observations with the theodolite having* been completed we obtained some sounding's and returned to the ship. The view we had to-day from the Pariwara Islands was not so interesting as I had expected. The shores of the bay stretching- to the northward of Redscar Head for many miles are low and covered with tall trees behind a strip of sandy beach. At the back of the point in the corner of the bay^ we saw an opening* two hundred yards wide^ with tall mangToves on the northern bank^ appa- rently one of the mouths of a river traversing the g-reat extent of low wooded country behind. A very larg-e fire two or three miles behind the beach^ sending up g-reat volumes of smoke^ mig'ht have been intended for a sig-nal^ but neither canoes nor natives were seen during- our absence from the ship. Sejjt, 24:111, — A canoe with twelve young- men and lads came off fi^om the shore^ and approached within two hundred yards of the ship^ but although tempted by the exhibition of a larg-e piece of red cloth^ they would come no closer. Their visit was apparently prompted by mere curiosity ns they had nothing- to barter with. These natives closely resembled the other Papuans seen to the eastward, but were smaller in stature, and wore the hair frizzled up into a mop projecting backwards, nor had 294 NATIVES COME OFF. I before seen in one canoe so many handsome faces. As a breech-cloth they wore a narrow strip of white cloth passing" between the legs and secured to a string' round the waist^ but this was too narrow to sene as a fig'-leaf. Among* their ornaments we saw necklaces of small white cowries^ and round flat pieces of shell two inches in diameter worn on the breast^ also blacky tig'htly fitting"^ woven armlets^ in which they had stuck bunches of apparently the same purple odoriferous amaranth seen elsewhere^ while other tufts of this plant were attached to the ankles and elbows. The canoe w^as nearly of the same description as those commonly seen at the Brumer and Dufaure Islands^ but the outrig*g*er float was rather shorter^ having* only five poles to support it instead of seven or eighty and the bow and stern^ CANOE DESCRIBED. 295 especially the former^ much sharper and more rakmg*. On the side opposite to the outrig-g-er there was a small slig'htly projecting- stag-e of two planks only. The paddles were six and a half feet in leng-th^ much clumsier than those seen in other parts of New Guinea^ and without the carving* on the handle^ the blade also differed slig-htly in shape^ being' more elliptical. After paddling* inshore a short distance the}" made sail and landed near the point. The sail resembled the common one of the Louisiade^ being* long*^ narrow^ square at the ends^ and stretched between two yards or masts^ and in setting* was merely stuck upon end and sup- ported by g'uys fore and aft. During* our stay at this anchorage we had fine weather^ with lig*ht variable winds of short duration^ g-enerally from the westward, but sometimes from the northward^ and the thermometer rang'ed between 77° and 84^ Sept. 26th, — Weig*hed in the afternoon with a very lig'ht air from >S.W.; and stood to the N.AV.^ but by sunset^ when we anchored hi 27 fathoms mud^ we had made only about eig*lit miles. The weather w^as very sultry all day with the ther- mometer from 82'' to 84^" in the shade. In the evening* we g*ot a land breeze from about east^ Avhich lasted most of the nig'ht. Sejjt. 26tJt. — Soon after day lig'ht we were visited by a party of natives who came from an opening* in the low land at the north-east corner of the bay — 296 MORE NATIVES VISIT US. apparantly the mouth of a larg'e river. They were in three canoes carrying* respectively seven^ four^ and three people^ and paddled up along-side without hesi- tation^ appearing* anxious to be admitted on board^ holding* on by the chains and peeping- into the ports in a most inquisitive manner. With the exception of two or three cocoa-nuts nothing- was brought to barter with^ but they readily parted with bows and arrows^ of which they had a very larg-e supply. These bows appear to be made of the hard heavy wood of the cocoa-nut tree^ pointed at each end^ and varjang- in leng'th from five to six feet^ wdth a g-reatest width of an inch and a quarter and thickness of five-eig-hths. The string- is a strip of rattan three- eig-hths of an inch wide. The arrows are precisely similar to those used by the Torres Strait Islanders, consisting* of a head of cocoa-nut wood^ nine to eighteen inches in leng-th_, shipped into a light reed 2J to o\ feet in lengthy and secured b}^ a neat cane plaiting. They are variously barbed on the edges in one or more series^ or furnished with constrictions at short intervals which would cause a piece readily to break off in a wound and remain there. Some were headed with a piece of bamboo shaped like a g*ouge or scoop^ and several other varieties were observed. This is the first occasion of our meeting* with these weapons^ which appear almost completely to have superseded the spear of which only a few small ones were seen in the canoes. In exchange for their bows and arrows the BAMBOO KNIFE. 297 natives attached most value to articles of clothing* of every description. Glass bottles were also eagerly soug-ht after — but iron Avas not prized — indeed its use appeared to be unknoAvn^ nor had they an}^ name for it. While leaning* out of one of the wardroom ports^ and g*etting* words from a very intelligent native whose attention I secured by g'iving* him various little presents from time to time^ I had occasion to point to a bamboo scoop* lying* in the canoe in order to g*et its name. The man^ to my surprise^ immediately bit off a narrow strip from one side^ as if to sharpen the edge^ and taking* up a piece of sticky shcAved me that this scoop was used as a knife. Not to be outdone I took one of our common knives and cut away vig*orously at a piece of wood to shew the superiority of our knives over his one ; he appeared suddenly to become ter- rified^ talked vehemently to the others, drew their attention to me^ and repeated my motions of cutting* the wood^ after Avhich his canoe pushed off from the ship's side. My friend refused to accept of the knife — as I afterwards found the natives had also done to other people when iron implements Avere offered them — nor Avould he pay any further atten- tion to my attempts to effect a reconciliation. The g-reatest peculiarity among* these people is their mode of dressing the hair * it is usually shaved off the temples and occasionally a little Avay up the * Resembling that figured in Jukes' Voyage of the Fly, vol. i, p. 2/7, — but smaller. 298 NATIVE HAIR-DRESSING. forehead^ tlien combed out at leiig'th^ and tied mid- wa}^ with a string*^ leaving- one part straig'ht^ and the remainder frizzled out into a mop projecting- horizontally backwards. Some also had a long- pig'tail hang-ing' down behind^ in one case decorated with a bunch of dog-'s teeth at the end. Across the forehead they wore fillets of small shells strung- tog-ether over a broad white band of some leafy sub- stance. The septum of the nose was perforated^ and some wore a long- straig'ht nose-stick of bone with black bands. All our visitors had then- teeth darkened with the practice of betel chewing-^— we saw them use the leaf of the betel pepper^ the g-reen areca nut^ and lime^ the last carried in a small calabash with a spatula. We had been becalmed all the morning-^ but before noon the sea-breeze set in from the S. S. E._, and we LEAVE NEW GUINEA. 299 g'ot under weig-h^ ran past S. W. Cape^ and anchored in 22 fathoms mud^ off a larg"e island afterwards named in honour of Lieut. Yule. Sept. 21th, — This has proved a very uneasy anchorao'e under the combined influence of a stronof breeze from the south-east and a heavy sea. At onC; p.m._j T\'e g'ot under weigh in company with the Bramble^ and left the coast of New Guinea, running* to the westward for Cape York, in order to meet the vessel with our supplies from Sydney. Next evening' Bramble Cay was seen on our weather beam * being* so low and so small an object, we had nearl}- missed it. We hauled upon a wind immediately but could not fetch its lee, so anchored two and-a-half miles N. W. by W. from it. Great numbers of boobies and noddies came about us, but our distance from the shore was too g*reat and our stay too short to send on shore for bird's eg'g*s. Sept. 2dth. — AVith a strong* south-easterly breeze we passed to the westward of Campbell and Stephens' Islands, the Bramble leading*, and anchored in the evening* near Marsden Island. On Campbell Island, numbers of the natives came down to the edg'e of the reef, waving* to us as we passed by, and inviting- us to land. There were many cocoa-nut trees, and we saw a village on the north-west side of tlie island, beautifully situated on the shady skirts of the wood. The huts resemble those of Darnley Island, being* shaped like a haycock or bee-hive, with a projecting* central pole ornamented with a 800 ARRIVE AT CAPE YORK. large shell or two attached to it. Most of the huts were situated in small enclosures^ and there were other portions of ground fenced in with tall bamboo pahng. On the following day the Bramble* left us for Booby Island^ to call at the ^'^ post-office ^' there^ and rejoin company at Cape York^ and we reached as far as the neighbourhood of Cocoa-nut Island at noon^ passing close to Arden Island_, then covered with prodig'ious numbers of blue and white herons^ small ternS; curlews_, and other waders. Oct. 1st, — We had a fine breeze and pleasant weather^ and in the afternoon reached our former anchorage in Evans' Bay^ Cape York^ and moored ship in seven fathoms. A party was immediately sent to examine the water-holes^ which promised^ after a little clearing out; as abundant a supply as they afforded us last year. We met some of the natives who came down to the rocks as the boat landed; and among them I saw many old acquaint- ances who jo3^fully gTeeted us. * On his return, Lieut. Yule reported that the boats of an American whaler, lost on the Alert Reef (outside the Barrier), had reached Booby Island, and the crews had been saved from starvation by the depot of provisions there. That this supply will be renewed from time to time is most hkely, as the Legislative Council of New South Wales, last year, voted the sum of £50 for provisions to be left on Booby Island for the use of ship- wrecked people. CHAPTER VIII. KESCUE A WHITE WOMAN FEOM CAPTIVITY AMONG THE NATIVES — HER HISTOET — BRAMBLE AND BOATS COMPLETE THE STJEVET OF TOEEES STEAIT — WINI AND THE MUL- GEAVE ISLANDEES— INTEECOUESE WITH THE CAPE TOEK NATIVES— NEAELT QUAEEEL WITH THEM AT A NIGHT DANCE — WITNESS A NATIVE FIGHT — DISCOVEE SOME FINE COUNTET — INCIDENTS OF OUE STAY — MANY NEW BIEDS FOUND — EE- MAEKS ON THE CLIMATE, ETC. OF CAPE YOEK. On the day after our arrival at Cape York the vessel fi'om Sydney with our supplies anchored beside US; and besides provisions and stores^ we had the additional pleasure of receiving- five months' news from home. On Oct. 16th; a startling- incident occurred to break the monotony of our stay. In the afternoon some of our people on shore were surprised to see a young* white woman come up to claim their protec- tion from a party of natives from whom she had recently made her escape^ and who^ she thoug-ht^ w^ould otherwise bring' her back. Of course she received every attention^ and was taken on board the ship by the first boat; when she told her story^ wdiich is briefly as follows. Her name is Barbara Thomson : she was born at Aberdeen in Scotland; and along* with her parents; emigrated to New South 302 HISTORY OF A WHITE WOMAN^ Wales. About four years and a half ag'o she left More ton Bay with her husband in a small cutter (called the America)^ of which he was owner^ for the 23urpose of picking- up some of the oil from the wreck of a whaler^ lost on the Bampton Shoal^ to which place one of her late crew undertook to g'uide them J their ultimate intention was to go on to Port Essing-ton. The man who acted as pilot was unable to find the wreck^ and after much quarrelling' on board in consequence^ and the loss of two men by drowming'^ and of another who was left upon a small uninhabited island^ they made their wa}^ up to Torres Strait^ where^ during* a g'ale of wind^ their vessel struck upon a reef on the Eastern Prince of Wales Island. The two remaining- men were lost in attempting- to swim on shore through the surf^ but the woman w^as afterwards rescued by a party of natives on a turtling* excursion^ who^ when the g-ale subsided^ swam on board^ and supported her on shore between two of then' number. One of these blacks^ Boroto by name^ took possession of the w^oman as his share of the plunder ; she was com- pelled to live with him^ but was well treated by all the men^ although many of the women^ jealous of the attention shewn her^ for a long time evinced anything but kindness. A curious circumstance secured for her the protection of one of the principal men of the tribe a party from which had been the fortunate means of rescuing her^ and which she after- wards found to be the Kowrarega^ chiefly inhabiting TAKEN BY THE BLACKS. 303 Muralug^^ or the Western Prince of Wales Island. This person^ named Piaqnai^ acting* npon the belief (universal throug-hout Australia and the Islands of Torres Strait so far as hitherto known) that white peojile are the g-hosts of the aborigines^ fancied that in the strano-er he recoo'nised a lono*-lost dauo-hter o O O o of the name of Gi(a)om^ and at once admitted her to the relationship which he thoug'ht had formerly subsisted between them ; she was immediately ac- knowledg-ed by the whole tribe as one of themselves^ thus ensurino- an extensive connection in relatives of all denominations. From the head-quarters of the tribe with wliich Gi'om thus became associated beins: upon an island which all vessels passing* throug'h Torres Strait from the eastward must approach within two or three miles^ she had the mortification of seeing' from twenty to thirty or more ships g'o throug-h ever}^ summer without anchoring' in the neig'hbom'hood^ so as to afford the slig'htest opportu- nity of maldng* her escape. Last year she heard of our two vessels (described as two war canoes^ a big- and a little one) being' at Cape York — only twenty miles distant — from some of the tribe who had com- municated with us and been well treated^ but they w ould not take her over^ and even watched her more narrowly than before. On our second and present visit, however, which the Cape York people imme- diately announced by smoke sig'nals to their friends in Muralug', she was successful in persuading* some of her more immediate friends to brino- her across to 804 RESCUED FROM CAPTIVITY. the main land within a short distance of where the vessels lay. The blacks were credulous enoug-h to be- lieve that ^^as she had been so long* with them^ and had been so well treated^ she did not intend to leave them^ — onl}^ she felt a strong' desire to see the white peo2:)le once more and shake hands with them ;" adding'^ that she would be certain to procure some axes^ knives^ tobacco^ and other much- prized articles. This appeal to their cupidity decided the question at once. After landing* at the sandy bay on the western side of Cape York^ she hurried across to Evans' Bay^ as quickly as her lameness would allow^ fearful that the blacks mi»*ht chano-e their mind ; and well it was that she did so^ as a small party of men followed to detain her^ but arrived too late. Three of these people were broug-ht on board at her own request^ and as they had been instrumental in saving* her from the wreck^ the}^ were presented with an axe a-piece^ and other presents. Upon being* asked by Captain Stanley whether she really preferred remaining with us to accom- panying* the natives back to their island_, as she Avould be allowed her free choice in the matter^ she was so much ag'it-ated as to find difficulty in ex- pressing* her thankfulness^ making* use of scraps of Eng*lish alternately with the Kowrarega lang'uag*e^ and then^ suddenly awaking* to the recollection that she was not understood^ the poor creature blushed all over^ and with downcast eyes^ beat her forehead with her hand^ as if to assist in collecting* her HER HISTORY. 805 scattered tlioug'hts. At leng'th^ after a paiise^ she found words to say^— ^'^ Sir^ I am a Christian^ and would rather o-o back to my own friends." At the same time^ it was remarked by every one that she had not lost the feeling's of womanly modesty — even after having* lived so long* among- naked blacks ] she seemed acutely to feel the sino-ularity of her ,j o «,■ position — dressed only in a couple of shirts^ in the midst of a crowd of her own countrymen. When first seen on shore our new shipmate presented so dirty and wretched an appearance that some people who were out shooting* at first mistook her for a gin^ and were passing* by without takings further notice^ when she called out to them in Eng'Hsh^ '' I am a white woman^ why do you leave me ?'' With the exception of a narrow fring*e of leaves in front, she wore no clothing*^ and her skin was tanned and blistered with the sun^ and shewed the marks of several larg*e burns which had been received from sleeping* too near the fire on cold nig'hts ; besides^ she was' suffering* from ophthalmia^ which had previously deprived her of the sig*ht of one eye. But g'ood living*^ and every comfort (for Captain Stanley kindly provided her with a cabin and a seat at his table)^ combined with medical attention^ very soon restored her healthy and she was eventually handed over to her parents in Syd- ney in excellent condition. Although perfectly illiterate^ Mrs. Thomson had made g'ood use of her powers of observation^ and VOL. I. X 306 PROCEEDINGS WHILE ON BOARD. evinced much shrewdness in her remarks upon various subjects connected with her residence among- the blacks^ joined to great wilhng-ness to communi- cate any information which she possessed. Much of this will be found in another part of this volume^ incorporated with the result of my oAvn observa- tions. Several hundred words of the Kowrareg-a lang'uag'e^ and a portion of its g'rammar^ were also obtained from time to time^ and most of these were subsequently verified. And^ although she did not understand the lang'uag-e spoken at Cape York, 3^et^ as some of the Gudang' people there knew the Kowrareg'a^ throug^h its medium I was usually able to make myself tolerably well understood^ and thus obtain an explanation of some matters which had formerly puzzled me^ and correct various errors into which I had fallen. It was well^ too^ that I took an early opportunity of procuring* these words^ for my informant afterwards forg^ot much of her lately acquired lang'uag'e, and her value as an authority on that subject gradually diminished. Gi'om was evidently a great favourite with the blacks^ and hardly a day passed on which she was not obliged to hold a levee in her cabin for the reception of friends from the shore^ while other visitors^ less favoured^ were content to talk to her through the port. They occasionally brought pre- sents of fish and turtle^ but always expected an equivalent of some kind. Her friend Boroto^, the nature of the intimncy with whom was not at first SURVEY OF TORRES STRAIT COMPLETED. 307 understood^ tifter in vain itttempting* by smooth words and fair promises to induce her to g^o back to hve Avitli him^ left the ship in a rag-e^ and we were not sorry to get rid of so impudent and troublesome a visitor as he had become. Previous to leaving-^ he had threatened that, should he or any of his friends ever catch his faithless spouse on shore, they would take off her head to carry back with them to Muralug- and so likely to be fulfilled did she consider this threat, being* in perfect accordance with their customs, that she never after- wards ventured on shore at Cape York. During the period of om^ stay at Cape York, the Bramble^ Asp, and E^attlesnake's pinnace were sent away to the western entrance of Torres Strait to finish the surve}^, and returned after a month^s absence. The boats had held no intercourse with any of the natives, except a small party of Kow- rareg-as, the inhabitants of Mulgrave and Banks Islands having carefully avoided them. Hopes had been entertained prior to starting of seeing* something* of a white man of the name of Wini, who had lived with the Badus for many years. Gi'om had seen and conversed with him during* a \'isit to Muralug* which he had made in hopes of inducmg her to share his fortunes. She supposed him to be a foreigner, from his not appearing* to understand the English she used when asked by him to speak in her native tong*ue. He had reached Mulgrave Island in a boat after having, by his own account, killed X 2 308 WINI AND THE his companions^ some three or four in number. In course of time he became the most important person in the tribe^ having* grained an ascendancy by procuring" the death of his principal enemies and intimidatino- others, which led to the establishment of his fame as a warrior^ and he became in conse- quence the possessor of several wives^ a canoe^ and some property in land^ the cultivation of which last he pays g^reat attention to. Wini^s character ap- pears from the accounts I have heard— for others corroborated part of Gi'om's statement— to be a com- pound of villany and cunning-^ in addition to the ferocity and headstrong- passions of a thoroug-h savage^ — it strikes me that he must have been a runaway convict^ probably from Norfolk Island. It is fortunate that his sphere of mischief is so limited^ for a more dang*erous ruffian could not easily be found. As matters stand at present^ it is probable that not only during- his life, but for years after- wards, every European who falls into the hands of the Badu people will meet with certain death.* * In further illustration of this assertion I give the following note with which I have lately been furnished by Mr. J. Sweatman, K/.N., who served in the Bramble at the time of the occurrence of the murder to which it alludes. In June 1846 the supercargo and a boat's crew of a small vessel from Sydney procuring trepang and tortoise-shell in Torres Strait, landed upon Mulgrave Island (the vessel being about seven miles off) in order to barter for tortoise-shell. The natives appeared at first to be friendly enough, but, towards evening some circumstances occurred which induced the boat's crew to re-embark, and thev tlien went to a MULGRAVE ISLANDERS. 309 The inhabitants of the neighbouring- Banks Island are described by Gi'om as evincing- the same hostility towards Europeans. Only a few years ao'o the Italeofas, one of the two tribes inhabitino- that island^ murdered two white men and a boy, who had reached their inhospitable shores in a small boat, probably from a wreck. Such savage out- rao-es committed bv the inhabitants of the north- w^estern islands would probably be completely prevented were they oftener visited by Europeans ; such was the case wdth the people of Darnley Island, once dang-erous savag'es, now safely to be dealt with by taking- the usual precautions, and where, as at the Murray Islands, I believe strano-ers in distress, without valuable property, would now be kindly treated. We remained nine weeks at our anchorao-e in small sand-bank about a mile off to pass the night there. The supercargo and three men landed, leaving two men in the boat at anchor; about midnight the latter were alarmed at hearing shouts and yells on shore, and, landing in haste, found that the natives had attacked their comrades, whose muskets, being damp, were quite useless. The supercargo and two men were killed — a shot from the boat however dispersed the natives sufficiently for the two men to drag their surviving comrade into the boat, but he had an arrow through the body, and his hands were partially severed, and he soon died. The bodies of the three people on the sand-bank could not be recovered, the natives returning to the attack with showers of arrows, nor could the small force on board the schooner attempt to punish the perpetrators of this unpro- voked murder. 310 INTERCOURSE WITH CAPE YORK NATIVES. Evans Bay. The natives^ of whom there were usually a number encamped in the neighbour- hood^ attracted by the presence of the ship^ as vul- tures by a carcass^ continued on perfectly fiiendly terms^ assisted the wooding- and watering' parties^ broug-ht off fish and portions of turtle to the ship^ tind accompanied us on our walks on shore. The usual remuneration for their services was biscuit^ and^ next to that^ tobacco^ besides which axes and knives w^ere hig-hly prized and occasionally g'iven them. Immediately on landing* for the purpose of an excursion^ each of us looked out for his kotaiga* from among- a crowd of applicants surrounding- the boat^ the haversack was thrown across his shoulders^ and away we started for the bush. It was often difficult for the possessor of a g-ood stock of biscuit to shake off other useless volunteers 3 these hang'ers-on^ with few exceptions^ were more remarkable for their capacity for food than for their powers of endurance^ shewing- a deeply rooted antipathy to any exertion not actually necessary^ and for every trifling- addi- tional service asking- for his'iker muro^ cJioka muro, neipa^ or some such thing-. Still a few of these same blacks make a very agreeable addition to a shooting- party ^ as besides their services as g-uides^ and in pohiting- out g-ame^ they formed amusing- companions and enlivened many a noonday bivouac * Derived from the Kowrarega word Kutaig (younger brother); here m the jargon used between us it signified friend, associate, companion, &c. INDUCE THEM TO GET UP A NIGHT DANCE. 811 or dull thirsty march in the hot sun with their song's^ jokes, and mimicry. One evening- I was asked to join a part}^ made up for the purpose of witnessing- a native dance. Many strang-e blacks were then encamped on the marg'in of the beach^ and altog-ether about 150 people belong-ing- to foiu* or five tribes had collected. Not being- apprised of our coming- they shewed much surprise and suspicion at our landing- after dark^ but^ with some trouble^ a number Avere induced by the pro- mise of a quantity of biscuit to g-et up a dance round a laro-e fire on the sand to the music of a drum which we had taken with us to announce our ap- proach. The dance after all was a very poor affair, — none of the performers were painted and decorated, there was little scenic effect, and they seemed g-lad when it was over. The bag' containing- the pro- mised biscuit was most injudiciously handed over to an old Avoman named Baki, or '^ qiieena wo man Bakiy^ as some one had taug-lit her to call herself], for distribution among' the party. She doled out a few handfuls to some Avomen and children Avho had not been at all concerned in the matter, and would have marched off' Avith the remainder had she not been prevented. The appointment of a Avoman to this office o-ive p'reat off^ence to the men Avho had been dancino', — Avliile not one amono- them Avould have scrupled forcibly to deprive her of the Avhole on the very first opportunity, yet every man there scorned the idea of having- to ash a woman for anything',— 312 NEi^ELY QUAEREL WITH THEM. the consequence was that the performers were not rewarded^ and naturally imagined that we had broken faith with them. The discontent increased^ some of the men left in a state of great excitement^ and went for their spears and throwing* sticks. One or two rockets were sent up soon after to amuse them^ on which the few remaining* women and children hurried to their sheds of bark and hid their faces in terror. When a blue light was burned^ and lit up the gloomy shadows of the neighbouring busily it disclosed the spectral figures of many armed men among the trees^ singly and in groups^ intently watching our motions. Paida^ who Avith other native allies of ours still remained with us_, was very urgent for us to be oft^ telling me that spears would be thrown immediately (kaihii haJaha iniiro) ; being a hotaig of mine^ he considered him- self bound to attend to my safety^ so conducted me to the boat which he assisted in shoving off; nor did he retire from the beach until we had got into deep water. I have alluded to this occurrence^ trivial as it may appear^ not without an object. It serves as an illustration of the policy of respecting the known customs of the Australian race^ even in apparently ^rifling matters^ at least during the early period of intercourse Avith a tribe^ and shews how a little want of judgment in the director of our party caused the most friendlv intentions to be misconstrued, and might have led to fatal results. I must confess OBSERVATIONS ON CAUSE OE OEEENCE. 818 that I should have considered any injury sustained on our side to have been most richly merited j more- over^ I am convinced that some at least of the collisions which have taken place in Australia^ between the first European visitors and the natives of any given district^ have originated in causes of offence broug-ht on by the indiscretion of one or more of the party^ and revenged on others who were innocent. As a memorable instance I may give that Avhich happened during* Leichhardt's overland journey to Port Essing-ton^ Avhen his camp was attacked one evening-^ and Mr. Gilbert lost his life. Long- afterwards the undoubted cause of this appa- rentty unaccountable attack transpired in the acknowledg-ment^ while intoxicated^ by one of the persons concerned^ that a g-ross outrag-e had been committed upon an aboriginal woman a day or two previously^ by the Uxo blacks belonging' to the expe- dition. One day I witnessed a native fig'ht; which may be described liere^ as such occurrences^ althougii fre- quent enoug-h in Australia, have by Europeans been witnessed only in the settled districts. It was one of those smaller figiits^ or usual modes of settling- a quarrel when more than two people are concerned^ and assumed quite the character of a duel upon a larg'e scale. At day-break_, I landed in company with six or seven people who Avere g'oing- out on different shooting- parties. The natives came down to the boat as usual^ but all carried throwing'-sticks 314 WITNESS A NATIVE FIGHT. — contrary to their usual practice of late ; and at the place where they had slept^ numbers of spears were stuck up on end in the sand. These prepara- tions surprised me^ but Paida w ould not explain the cause and seemed anxious to g-et me away. The shooters marched oiF— each with his black — but I loitered behind^ walking* slowly along' the beach. About 200 yards from the first camping'-place^ two oToups of strang-e natives^ chiefly men^ were assembled with throwinof-sticks in their hands and bundles of spears. While passing* them they moved along* in twos and threes towards the Evans Bay party^ the men of Avhich advanced to meet them. The women and children beg-an to make off, but a few remained as spectators on the sands^ it being- then low w^ater. A g-reat deal of violent g*esticu- lation and shouting* took place^ the parties became more and more excited^ and took up their position in two scattered lines facing* each other^ extending: from the marg-in of the beach to a little way in the busily and about twenty-five yards apart. Paida^ too^ partook of the excitement and could refrain no long*er from joinings in the fig'ht 5 he dropped my haversack and bounded away at full speed to his camping'-place^ where he received his spears from little Purom his son^ and quickly made his appear- ance upon the scene of action. The two parties were pretty equally matched — about fifteen men in each. The noise now became' deafening*; shouts of defiance^ insulting* expressions^ DEXTERITY IN THROWING THE SPEAR. 315 and every kind of abusive epithet were bandied about^ and the women and children in the bush kept up a waiHng- cry all the while rising* and falling- in cadence. The pantomimic movements were of various descriptions ; besides the sing-ular quivering- motion given to the thig'hs placed w ide apart (common to all the Australian dances)^ they frequently invited each other to throw at them^ turning- the body half round and exposing- the breech^ or dropping- on one knee or hand as if to offer a fair mark. At leng-th a spear w as thrown and returned^ followed by many others^ and the fig*hting- became g-eneral^ with an occasional pause. The precision with which the spears Avere thrown was not less remarkable than the dexte- rity with which they were avoided. In nearly every case the person thrown at would^ apparently^ have been struck had he stood stilly but^ his keenness of sig-ht enabled him to escape by spring-ing* aside as required^ variously inchning- the body^ or some- times merely lifthig* up a leg- to allow the spear to pass by^ and had two been throAvn at one per- son at the same moment he could scarcely have escaped^ but this I observed was never attempted^ as it would have been in w^ar^— here each individual appeared to have a particular opponent. I had a capital view of the whole of the proceeding's^ being- seated about fifty yards behind and slig-htly on the flank of one of the tw^o contending parties. One spear throwai hig-her than usual passed within five 3'ards of me, but this I was satisfied was the result of 316 DISCOVERY or MEW RIVEE. accident^ as I had seen it come from Paida's party. Soon afterwards I observed a man at the rio-ht extreme of the hne next me, who had been dodo-ino* round a hirg*e sceevola bush for some time back^ make a sudden dart at one of the opposite party and chop him down the shoulder with an iron toma- hawk. The wounded man fell^ and instantly a yell of triumph denoted that the whole matter was at an end. Paida rejoined me five minutes afterwards^ appa- rently much refreshed by this little excitement^ and accompanied me on my walk^ still he would not explain the cause of the fig'ht. The wounded man had his arm tied up by one of our people who landed soon afterwards_, and^ although the cut was both larg'e and deep^ he soon recovered. The frequent excursions of our shooting' parties beino' more extended than durino- our last visit became the means of adding' considerably to our knowledge of the surrounding country. One of the immediate consequences was the discovery of several small streams of fresh water. The principal of these^ w^hich we named Mew River (after its first finder^ the sergeant of marines on board)^ has its mouth in a small mangrove creek three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of Evans Bay. About five miles further up its source was found to be a spring among rocks in a dense calamus scrub. It waters a fine vallev runnino* nearly east and west behind the range of hills to the southward of Evans Bay^ THE VALLEY OF THE MEW. 817 and its line is marked by a belt of tang-led brush exceeding" in luxuriance anything* of the same des- cription which I had seen elsewhere. The variety of trees in this dense brush is very great^ and many were quite new to me. The Seaforthia palm attained the height of 60 to 80 feet^ and the rattan was very abundant^ and from the recurved prickles catching^ and tearing- tlie clothes^ it was often no easy matter to penetrate the thickets. Among* the plants along* the river the most interesting is an indigenous species of banana or plantain^ probably the same as that found at Endeavour River during* Cook's first voyage. The fruit is of small size with numerous hard seeds and a small quantity of delicious pulp ; cultivation would^ doubtless^ wonderfully improve it. Another remarkable plant found on the g*rassy borders of the jungle and characteristic of rich damp soil is a beau- tiful species of JRosccea (?)^ (one of the Scitaminese or g*inger family)^ about a foot hig'h^ with a solitary leaf and large bracteos^ the lower green and the upper ones pink^ partially concealing* handsome yellow flowers. From its succulent nature I failed in preparing* specimens for the herbarium^ but some roots were preserved and given to the Botanical Garden at Sydney. The lower part of the valley is open forest land^ or nearly level and thinly wooded country covered with tall coarse grass. Further up it becomes more beautiful. From the belt of wood, concealing* the windings of the river, grassy sloping meadows extend {318 PROPOSED SETTLEMENT up^vards on each side to the flanking' ridg-es which are covered with dense scrub occasionally extending' in strag-g'hng- patches down to the water, and forming a kind of imperfect natural fence. The soil of these meadows is rich sandy loam, affording- g-reat appa- rent facilities for cultivation from their proximity to what is probably a never failing- supply of fresh water. Here, at the end of the dry season, and before the periodical rains had fairly set in, we found the stream at half way up to be about six feet in averag-e breadth, slowly running' over a shallow, g-ravelly, or earthy bed, with occasional pools from two to four feet in depth. I have alluded to this subject at g-reater leng'th than under ordinary circumstances I would have done, in the belief that, should a settlement ever be established at Cape York, the strip of good land that runs along- the upper part of Mew River may hereafter be turned to g-ood account. Several other valleys watered by small and apparently permanent streams were discovered by our shooting- parties, chiefly by Wilcox and the sergeant of marines ; these were afterwards visited by me, and my opinion of the productiveness of the country about Cape York almost daily became more and more favourable the fm^ther I extended my excursions. I need scarcely repeat the arguments which have been adduced in favour of the expediency, I may almost say necessity, of establishing a military post, or small settlement of some kind, in the vicinity of AT CAPE YORK. old Cape York^ simply because^ while perfectly agreeing* with Mr. Jukes* and several other persons who have drawn the })uhlic attention to the subject^ I have little in addition to offer. Still a few words on the question may not be out of place. The benefi- cial results to be looked for Avere such a settlement to be formed would be — 1st. A port of reliig'e would be afforded to the crews of vessels wrecked in Torres Strait, and its approaches, who otherwise must make for Boob}^ Island, and there await the uncertainty of being- picked up by some passing' vessel, or even attempt in the boats to reach Coupang- in Timor, a distance of 1 100 miles further. And now that the settlement at Port Essing-ton has been abandoned the necessity for such a place of refuge is still greater. 2nd. Passing* vessels might be supplied with water and other refreshments, also stores, such as anchors, &c., which last are frequently lost during the pas- sage of the Strait. 3rd. The knowledo-e of the existence of such a post would speedily exercise a beneficial influence over our intercourse with the natives of Torres Strait, and induce them to refrain from a repetition of the outrages which they have frequently committed upon Europeans; the little trade in tortoiseshell which might be pushed in the Strait (as has fi'e- quently been done before by small vessels from Sydney and even from Hong* Kong) a\ ould no longer * Voyage of the Fly, vol. i. p. 302. 320 ITS ADVANTAGES. be a dangerous one— and protection would be aiforded to the coaling- depot for steamers at Port Albany.* 4th. In a military point of view the importance of such a post has been urg-ed upon the gTound^ that in the event of \var^ a sing-le enemy ^s ship stationed in the neighbourhood^ if previously unoccupied^ could completely command the whole of our commerce passing- through the Strait. 5th. From what more central point could opera- tions be conducted with the yiew of extendino- our knowledge of the interior of Ts ew Guinea by ascend- ing some of the large rivers of that country^ dis- emboo'uino' on the shores of the Great Bio-ht ? 6th and lastly. But on this point I would advance my opinion with much diffidence— I believe that were a settlement to be established at Cape York^ missionary enterprize^ judiciously conducted, might find a useful field for its labours in Torres Strait^ beginning- with the Murray and Darnle}^ Islanders, people of a much higher intellectual standard than the Australians, and consequently more likely to appreciate any humanizing- influence which might be exercised for their benefit. Several kano-aroos or wallabies, the laro-est of * I adduce this last advantage on the presumption, which now assumes a greater degree of probabihty than before — that the steam communication before alluded to (p. 132), will be estab- lished, and that the Torres Strait route, the one which is almost generally advocated, will be the one adopted. KANGAROO AND NEW BIRDS. 321 whicli weig'lied forty pounds^ were killed during* our stay at Cape York. A kang-aroo dog' belong-ing- to Captain Stanley made several fine runs^ all of them unsuccessful however^ as the chase was seldom upon open gTound^ and there was little chance of over- taking- the kang-aroo before it g*ot into some neig-h- bouring* thicket where the dog* could not follow it. This wallaby proved to be the Ilalmaturus agilis, first found at Port Essing'ton^ and afterwards by Leich- hardt in Carpentaria. A sing-ular bat of a reddish brown colour was shot one day while asleep sus- pended from a branch of a tree ; it belong-ed to the g-enus Harpyiay and was therefore a contribution to the Australian fauna. Among* many additions to the ornithological col- lections of the voyag-e were eig*ht or nine new species of birds^ and about seven others previously known only as inhabitants of New Guinea and the neig-hbour- ing- islands.* The first of these which came under my notice was an enormous black parrot (3IicrogIos- sus afemmus) with crimson cheeks ; at Cape York it feeds upon the cubbag-e of various palms^ stripping* down the sheath at the base of the leaves with its powerful^ acutelj^-hooked upper mandible. The next in order of occurrence was a third species of the g-enus Tanysipter'a (T. >Sy//f/rA)^ a g-org-eous king-fisher with two lono*, white, central tail-feathers, inhabitino- * Many of these have since been figured and described, with accompanying notes on their habits, &c., in the recently pubUshed Supplement to Mr. Gould's Birds of Australia. VOL. I. Y 322 NATIVE BIRD-NESTING. the brushes^ where the giancmg- of its bright colours as it darts past in rapid flight arrests the attention for a moment ere it is lost among the dense foliage. I may next allude to Aplonis metallica — a bird somewhat resembling a starlings of a dark glossy green and purple hue^ with metallic reflections — in connection with its singular nest. One day I was taken by a native to the centre of a brushy where a gigantic cotton tree standing alone was hung with about fifty of the large pensile nests of this species. After I had made several unsuccessful attempts to shoot down one of the nests by firing with ball at the supporting branchy the black volunteered to climb the tree^ provided I would give him a knife. I was puzzled to know how he proposed to act^ the trunk being upwards of four feet in diameter at the base^ and the nearest branch being about sixty feet from the ground. He procured a tough and pliant shoot of a kind of vine {Cissvs), of sufficient length to pass nearly round the tree^ and holding one end of this in each hand and pressing' his legs and feet against the tree^ he ascended by a series of jerks^ resting' occasionally^ holding on for half a minute at a time with one end of the vine in his mouth. At length he reached the branches and threw me down as many nests as I required. He afterwards filled the bag' which he carried round his neck with the unfledged young birds^ which on our return to the native camp on the beach were thrown alive uj)on the fire_j in spite of my remon- A NEW BOWER-BIRD. 823 strances^ and when warmed throug'li were devoured with gTeat apparent relish by himself and his friends. Two days before we left Cape York I was told that some bower-birds had been seen in a thicket^ or patch of low scrub^ half a mile from the beach^ and after a lono- search I found a recently con- structed bower^ fom^ feet long- and eighteen inches hig'h^ with some fresh berries lying* upon it. The bower was situated near the border of the thicket^ the bushes composing* Avhich were seldom more than ten feet high^ g-rowing* in smooth sandy soil without grass. Next morning* I was landed before daylight^ and proceeded to the place in company with Paida^ takino' with us a laro-e board on which to carry oft the bower as a specimen. I had great difficulty in Y 2 8S4 A NEW BOWEE-BIRB. inducing' my friend to accompany me^ as lie was afraid of a war party of Gomokudins^ wliicli tribe had lately given notice that they were coming- to fig^ht the Evans Bay people. HoAvever I promised to protect him^ and loaded one barrel with ball^ which g'ave him increased confidence^, still he insisted upon carr3dng' a larg-e bundle of spears and a throwing'-stick. Of late Paida's tribe have taken steps to prevent being- surprised b}^ their enemies. At nig-ht they remove in their canoes to the neig'h- bouring' island Robumo^ and sleep there^ returning- in the morning- to the shore^ and take care not to g*o away to a distance sing'ly or unarmed. While watching- in the scrub I cauo'ht se^^eral glimpses of the tewinya (the native name) as it darted throuo-h the bushes in the neio-hbourhood of the bower^ announcing- its presence by an occasional loud clmrr-r-ry and imitating the notes of various other birds^ especially the leather-head. I never before met with a more wary bhd^ and for a long- time it enticed me to follow it to a short distance^ then flying- off and alighting- on the bower^ it would deposit a berr}" or two^ run through^ and be off again (as the black told me) before I could reach the spot. All this time it was impossible to get a shot. . At lengthy just as my patience was becoming' exhausted^ I saw the bird enter the bower and disappear^ when I fired at random throug-h the twigs^ fortunately with effect. So closely had we concealed ourselves latterly^ and so silent had we BRUSH TURKEY. 325 been^ that a kang-aroo while feeding actually hop- ped up within fifteen yards^ unconscious of our presence until fired at. My bower-bird proved to be a new species^ since described by Mr. Gould as Chlamydei'a cerviriiventriSy and the bower is ex- bited in the British Museum. Among' the g-ame birds of Cape York^ the emu is entitled to the first rank. Only two or three, however, were seen, and we were not fortunate enoug'h to procure one. One day an emu allowed me to approach within fifty yards by stalking- it cautiously, holding- up a larg*e g-reen boug'h before me, when, becomings alarmed, it darted in its frig-ht into a thicket and ^vas lost to view. Many brush turkeys [Talegalla Lathami) were shot by our sports- men, and scarcely a day j)assed on which the natives did not procure for us some of their eg'g's. The mode in which these and other eg-g's are cooked by the blacks is to roll them up in two or three larg-e leaves, and roast them in the ashes ] the eg-g*s burst, of course, but the leaves prevent the contents from escaping*. Both bird and eg-g-s are excellent eating- ; the latter, averag-ing- three and a half inches in leng'th, of a pure white colour, are deposited in low mounds of earth and leaves in the dense brushes in a similar manner to those of the meg-apodius, and are easily dug- out with the hand. I have seen three or four taken out of one mound w^here they were arrang'ed in a larg-e circle, a foot and a half from the surface. The laying- bird carefully effaces 326 SEASONS. any mark she may have made m scoopmg' out a place for the eg'g*s^ but the keen eye of a native quickly detects the slig'htest sig-n of recent disturb- ance of the mound^ and he seldom fails to hit upon the eo'o's. As at Port Essing'ton^ the year at Cape York is divided into two seasons^^ the dry and the rainy. From personal observation and other sources of information^ it would appear that the limits and duration of these admit of so much variation that it is impossible to determine with certainty^ even Avithin a month^ when one ceases and the other begins. It would appear however that the dry season^ cha- racterized by the prevalence of the south-east trade^ usually terminates in November^ the chang-e having* for some time previous been indicated by calms^ lig-ht windS; sometimes from the westward^ a gioomy un- settled appearance in the weather^ and occasional showers — violent squalls of wind and rain are fre- quent about this time until the westerly breezes set in^ when the weather becomes moderate with frequent rain^ occasionally very heavy^ and intervals^ often of many days duration^ of dry weather. In the month of March the south-east trade usually re- sumes its former influence^ the chang-e being* often attended with the same thick squally Aveather^ and * The natives of the neighbouring Prince of Wales Island distinguish the dry season (aihu or the fine weather), the wet (kuki or the N.W. wind which then prevails), and the period of change (malgui), equivalent to our Spring and Autumn. WINDS. 327 perhaps a g'ale from the north-west^ which ushered in the westerly monsoon. Our own experience of the winds during* our last stay at Cape York^ at the period when the chang-e of the monsoon was to be expected^ may he summed up as follows. During' the month of October the trade wind prevailed^ keeping* pretty steady at E. S. E.^ and g-enerally blowing* rather strongly^ with hazy weather and an occasional shower. For three days in the middle of the month we experi- enced lig*ht north-westerly winds dying* away ag*ain in the evening'^ and on the 25th a violent squall from the same quarter accompanied by very heavy rain rendered it expedient that the ship should next day be moved a cable's length further off shore. During* the four last days in the month we had calms and lig'ht winds from the northward of east^ as if the trade were about to cease^ but it commenced afresh and continued until the 26th of November^ g*enerally very moderate^ with fine weather. During* the last six days of our stay we had light airs from about N. W.; succeeded in the evening by a slight puff of south-easterly wind followed by a calm lasting all night. Last year^ during the month of October, we experienced no northerly or westerly winds, but a moderate trade prevailed throughout, pretty steady at E. S. E., but varying much in strength. In a place situated like Cape York, only about 640 miles distant from the equator, the atmospheric temperature may be expected to be very high ^ still 328 TEMPERATUEE. the heat^ althoug'h occasionally very oppressive for a time^ caused very different sensations from those experienced during- the almost stifling* calms of Port Essing'ton. At Cape York^ however^ calms seldom lasted above a few hours^ as from its peninsular posi- tion the land receives the full influence of nearly every breeze. An abstract of the thennometrical observations made on board the Rattlesnake shews the following' results : — Oct. 1848. aver. 81" aver. max. 85o aver. min. 77o 5 „ 1849. „ 81« „ 830 8 „ 7S^ 7 Nov. 1849. „ 8] 09 „ 8408 „ 79« During- the above period^ the highest and lowest temperatures recorded by the self-registering* maxi- mum and minimum thermometer are^ for October 1848, 88° and ?3°^ for October 1849, 83^ 8 and ITy and for November 1849, 88° and 76°. APPENDIX. No. I. Observations on the temperatv.re of the Sea, made during the Voyage of H.M.S, Rattlesnake, Dec. 1846 — Julg, 1847. BY JOSEPH DAYMAN, E.N. Lieut, and Assistant Survei/or. Date Position of Ship Lat. 3i >> 1846 Dec. 17 28 30 „ 31 1847 Jan. 1 2 3 5 6 / 12 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 Feb. 4 5 8 9 10 12 13 15 16 17 18 19 }) }} »y )f )) }) i) 5J if » J> 3) }) )> }} S) )) i) 34"52'N 28 34 23 22 21 13 18 40 15 28 Lonf 8 6 5 D 1 2 00 28 54 8 o 37 5 9 7 55 12 49 15 5 17 48 20 10 26 7 27 21 30 52 33 22 35 21 37 20 36 50 36 31 36 7 35 30 36 47 38 7 16o24'W 18 38 20 58 22 1 Temp, of Air 23 23 22 22 22 22 22 26 27 29 32 34 36 37 40 38 36 36 35 30 27 24 21 19 18 16 18 22 38 39 34 19 32 15 51 11 23 44 20 58 30 1 48 54 31 58 50 7 4 34 47 43 59° 66 68 66 68 72 78 82 79 82 77 79 78 79 79 79 80 78 66 73 71 68 68 69 66 63 59 64 64 65 Temperature of Sea Surface (Depth iu fath. Depth in fath. 61" 67 69 71 73 73 82 84 82 83 83 80 80 80 81 80 81 80 // 76 73 70 68 66 66 64 66 69 68 63 610 132 63 130 66 66 61 193 70 53 59 51 50 49 52 53 54 53 80 59 67 59 60 65 61 60 62 57 62 58 55 58 57 48 78 180 191 185 361 340 335 268 153 183 59 226 132 146 231 182 200 184 168 205 215 194 196 215 128 370 61ol90 57 178 60 293 47 273 62 317 50 51 51 51 50 49 45 45 45 47 51 50 306 351 342 360 324 309 355 370 339 336 366 257 yjio APPENDIX ^« Date Position of Ship Temp, of Air Temperatui-e of Sea Lat. Long. Surface Depth ill fath. Depth iu fath. 1847 Feb. 21 0 / 37 54 S 1°0 28W 0 59 0 62 53 205 4^3 345 „ 23 36 4 4 53 62 ^7 61 205 48 345 „ 24 34 42 4 15 69 70 51 364 44 650 ,., 25 35 28 3 6 QS 69 54 195 46 335 ,> 26 3Q b7 1 31 Q5 Q7 53 195 49 335 ,. 27 38 22 0 28 64 62 55 192 45 338 Mar. 1 38 25 4 1 E 56 55 48 195 44 335 „ 3 36 47 10 24 63 QQ 54 208 46 348 ,, 4 2>Q 41 12 1 m 64 55 188 46 328 » 5 3^ 22 13 40 66 68 52 217 46 367 » 6 36 24 14 42 71 70 Q5 147 56 284 Apr. 13 36 17 26 43 61 68 62 215 60 360 „ 14 36 53 27 49 Q^ 69 65 215 56 360 „ 15 38 10 29 39 67 69 67 205 58 350 „ 16 38 8 32 54 69 69 64 128 60 278 » 19 37 49 39 50 64 59 51 266 53 316 „ 21 38 13 45 36 ^Q 60 55 158 52 293 „ 24 34 24 54 14 60 64 60 157 58 287 „ 26 30 13 56 50 Q5 71 61 162 60 283 » 27 28 16 57 18 70 73 60 210 57 360 » 28 26 bQ 57 31 70 74 60 200 57 350 May 1 25 48 61 6 74 62 165 59 320 „ 3 20 42 58 47 7^ 77 74 140 57 300 „ 18 21 53 56 45 77 77 63 182 » 19 24 \Q 56 .58 7^ 75 71 182 » 20 26 9 58 45 74 71 63 140 73 360 » 21 27 3Q 61 9 69 73 54 333 » 22 28 6 63 30 68 69 53 300 „ 24 28 1 Q7 28 Q7 69 54 286 „ 25 29 49 67 14 QQ QQ 54 360 » 26 32 4 68 6 65 65 55 340 ,, 27 33 48 70 11 Q3 63 54 350 » 28 35 33 72 6 61 60 55 350 „ 29 36 6 74 15 60 59 52 350 June 1 35 0 80 56 61 59 55 346 „ 6 36 42 97 54 55 56 51 320 » 12 39 57 118 0 48 5A 45 320 » 14 40 46 123 26 49 53 50 380 July 9 15 miles E. lar,YanDie- of Cape Pil- men'sLand. 53 55 48 375 APPENDIX. 331 No. II. The following pages contain abstracts of tlic meridian distances measured in H.M. Surveying Ship " Rattle- snake" and lier tender the ''^ Bramble/' in the survey of the Inner Route through Torres Strait_, the Louisiade Archipelago, and the S. E. Coast of New Guinea, du.ring the years 1847-8-9 and 50, under the command of the late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. The 1st three columns require no explanation. The 4th (interval of days) is the elapsed time between the last day at the first station and first day at the second. The 7 th (meridian distance in arc) is the result of the particular measurement specified between the two places named. The 8th (mean meridian distance from Sydney) is that deduced by a mean value of two or more distances by the same T. K.^s, and in some instances of one only, in some of the principal stations connected with the survey. The times throughout these abstracts have been deter- mined by equal altitudes of the sun, excepting in those instances where the contrary is specified by A.A. The interpolations in the " Rattlesnake's^^ distances have been calculated by Owen's method : those of the " Bramble" by a method of Lieut. Yule^s. In the " Rattlesnake's'^ distances interpolation has been employed throughout ; in the " Bramble's'' only where an intermediate distance is measured between two rates. The asterisks point out the place to which the mean meridian from Sydney refers. 332 APPENDIX. Abstract of 3Ieridian Distances measured in H. 31. Surveying < PLACES MEASURED BETWEEN. 1846 1847 )) }) )7 J> J> >> 5> 184| 1849 1847 1848 5) >> J> 5> J> >> J> 5> }> >J )J J> if >> 1841 Greenwich and Madeira Madeira & Rat. I. Rio de Janeiro Rat. I. Rio Janeiro and Simon's Bay Simon's Bay and Mauritius I. Mauritius I. and Hobarton, V. D. L Hobarton and Sydney Sydney and *Parramatta Sydney and *Twofold Bay T^^ofold Bay and *Gabo I. . Gabo I. and Fort Macquarie . Twofold Bay and Fort Macquarie Fort Macquarie and *Moreton I. Moreton I. and Fort Macquarie Sydney and Moreton I. . Moreton I. and *Port Curtis . Port Curtis and Port Molle . Port Molle and Cape Upstart Cape Upstart and *Port Molle Port Molle and Moreton I. Sydney and *Port Phillip Point Gellibi'and and Shortlands Bluff Point Gellibraud and Port Dalrymple Port Dalrymple and Sydney . Sydney and *Rockingham Bay Sydney and *Cape Upstart Rockingham Bay and Cape Upstart Mound Islet and No. 3 Barnard Group No. 3 Barnard Gp. & No. 4 Frankland Gp No. 4 Frankland and Fitzroy I. Mound Islet and *Fitzroy I. . Fitzroy I. and Islet Trinity Bay Islet Trinity Bay and Low Isles Low Isles and East Hope I. Fitzroy I. and *East Hope I. East Hope I. and *Lizard I. . Lizard I. and No. 1 Howick Group- No. 1 Howick, and No. 6 Howick Group No. 6 Howick and Pipou I. Lizard I. and *Pipon I. Pipon I. and Pelican I. Pehcan I. and Nig-ht I. Nig-ht I. and C. Reef . Pipon I. and *C. Reef . C. Reef and Piper's I. . Piper's I. and Sunday I. Sunday I. and Cairucross I. . Cairncross I. and Z. Reef Z. Reef and Cape York . C. Reef and *Capp York Cape York and *Port E.-^sing-ton Port Essinyton and Sydney , o 6 ?2, 14 12 12 13 14 11 10 9 8 8 9 16 15 17 16 15 16 16 15 15 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 15 16 16 16 16 15 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 15 a cs > 10 31 36 28 40 11 1 3-5 5 4 9 8 10 7-5 12 11 2-4 4 22-5 11 3 9 14 31 22 9 4 5 7 16 6 4 10 20 9 3 3-5 3-5 10 2 12 9 23 4 4 3 2 4 17 10 71 w CD =.- '-3 o .— sec. 7-7 31-6 50 20 40 5 0-6 3 2-1 9-5 12-6 8 10 15 14 8-3 1-5 1-5 28 6-4 2-6 12-5 14-2 28-9 25-8 8-2 3-8 5-5 6 1 7-9 6-9 9-4 9 5 4 1 2' 3- 13- 8- 60 «-2 ,5 S Eh 0 0 60to81 62 to 75 71 81 64 84 64 to 84 64 79 73 84 84 78 79 72 79 77 78 79 79 79 79 82 82 83 84 83 84 84 84 84 84 85 80 90 90 71 72 72 84 73 73 72 73 73 73 76 76 73 76 78 78 76 80 80 81 81 81 78 81 62 Meridian distance in Arc. 0 I II 16 53 22W 26 14 38W 61 32 52E 39 1 6E 89 45 43E 3 52 39E 0 13 13VV 1 ] 7 53W 0 00 37W 1 18 40fi 1 17 54E 2 9 59E 2 8 25W 2 10 7E 1 59 59W 2 30 48W 1 5 42W 1 5 42E 4 31 69E 6 18 14W 0 14 18W 1 4 5 3 0 0 0 55 30E 25 53E 3 27W 27 OOW 1 36 32E 0 2 18E 6 4VV 5 34W 9 28W 0 18 25W 0 7 23W 0 6 2W 0 31 57W 0 00 7E 0 29 49W 0 8 56W 0 17 45W 0 56 14W 0 41 OOW 0 16 14W 0 4 32W 1 1 25W 0 17 19W 0 1 4W 0 17 37W 0 12 7W 0 10 22W 0 58 33W 1 10 23 50W' 19 00 18Wi Mean Men. distance from Fort Macquarie, Sydney. O I II *0 13 13W *1 17 53W *1 18 35W >*2 9 30E *0 8 37E • • • • ■ • • • *2 21 53W • • ■ • *6 19 48W *5 3 27W *3 27 37W *5 12 55W *5 44 52W *5 44 45W *6 40 59W *7 42 24W *8 42 8W *19 5 58W APPENDIX. 333 Slilp^ '' Rattlesnake,^^ hif Capt, Owen Stanleij, II. N., F.Il.S. SPOT OF OBSERVATION. Mr. Veitch's Garden, Funchal Rat I. Rio de Janeiro . N.W. end of Dockyard, Simon's Bay West side of Tonnelier's I. Ross bank Observatory Fort Macquarie .... Parramatta Observatory Jetty at Eden, Twofold Bay . Landing place on West side . Fort Macquarie .... Ditto .... Watering- place near the N.W. end Fort Macquarie, Sydney Watering- place near the N.W. end West side of Facing I , Port Curtis 1- 10th mile N. of Sandy Bay, E. side of har. Sandy Bay, near the Cape . 1-lOth mile N. of Sandy Bay, E. side of har, Watering- place near the N.W end Lig-hthouse, Point Gellibrand Lighthouse, Shortland's Bluff North point of Lagoon Bay Fort Macquarie . Summit of Mound Islet . Sandy Bay, near the Cape Ditto ditto Sandy beach. West extreme Sandy beach, West side Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Centre of North side of Islet N.E. point of Western Isle Beach on West side of I. Ditto ditto South end of Sandy Bay on West N.W. extreme of I. Middle of West side of I. S.W. side of West I. . Ditto ditto S.W. side of Island Coral patch, N.W. end of Island Dry sand, N.W. end of reef Ditto ditto N.E. extreme of West I. on large reef S.AV. side on sandy beach N.W. extreme on sandy beach Pry sand on N.W. end Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay Ditto ditto Government House, Yictoria Fort Macquarie . side Latitude of Spot of Observation. 0 / '' 32 37 42 N 22 34 42 33 33 37 37 33 33 27 33 27 23 20 19 20 27 37 38 41 33 17 19 19 17 17 16 16 16 16 15 15 14 14 14 14 14 13 13 12 12 12 11 11 10 10 10 11 33 53 11 52 51 48 4 34 51 51 5 51 5 51 19 42 19 5 52 16 5 51 55 42 42 40 12 55 55 43 22 43 43 39 29 26 7 7 54 9 34 34 14 55 14 48 41 41 22 51 30 S 28 S lOS 33 S 50 S 20 S OS 33 S 33 S 44 S 33 S 44 S 45 S 48 S 3S 48 S 44 S 31 S OS OS 33 S 25 S 3S 3S 20 S 22 S 57 S 57 S 26 S 56 S 45 S 45 S 56 S 46 S OS 9S 9S 21 S 58 S 50 S SOS 30 S 54 S 34 S 50 S 31 S 31 S 2S 33 S REMARKS. 0 16 43 / // 53 22W 8 0 [ of Greenwich. *By the Bramble's T. K.'s *By the Bramble's T. K.'s mean of do. do. do. [2 measurements *Mean of 3 measurements •Mean of 2 measurements *Mean of 2 measurements * do. do. Latitude from Chart *One measurement *Mean of 2 measurements *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *The mean of 3 measurements *One measurement * Useless (interval being too long) A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A AA A A AA A A A A A A A A A A 334 APPENDIX. I 1849 » )> >> 1850 j> j> >> 1847 1848 1849 )> 1847 1848 1847 1848 >> » 1849 1848 1849 j> j> )j j> ») )? j» >j >> )> 1850 ?> 55 PLACES MEASURED BETWEEN. Sydney and Moreton I. Moreton I. & No. 1 Obs. Reef C. Haven No. 1 Obs. Reef & ^o. 2. Obs. Reef C. Ha iS"o. 2 Obs. Reef and *Duchateau Isles Duchateau Isles and *Brunier I. Brumer I. and *Dufaure T. Bmmer I. and Redscar Bay . Redscar Bay and Cape York . Brumer I. and Cape York Cape York and *I\rount Ernest Mid. Duchateau and Cape York Cape York and * Bramble Cay Cape York and *Redscar Bay Redscar Bay and INIidd. Duchateau Middle Duchateau and Sydney Redscar Bay and Sydney Sydney and Bay of Is. New Zealand Bay of Is. and Port Stanley, E. Falkland Fort Macquarie and Port Stephens Port Stephens and *Moreton I. Moreton Bay and Sydney Moreton Bay and Sydney Fort Macquai'ie and Moreton Bay Moreton Bay and Port Curtis . Sydney and *Port Curtis Port Curtis and Moreton Bay Sydney and *Kent's Group, Lt. H. Sydney and *Hobson Bay, Port Phillip Hobson's Bay and Sj^dney Sail Rocks, Pt. Curtis, &, Rockingham B. Goold I. (Rocking-h. Bay) & *FitzroyI. Fitzroy I. and a rocky Islet, C. Melville A rocky Islet, C. Melville, and Pelican I. Pelican I. and *Cape York Cape York and Booby I. Booby I. and Cape York Cape York and Moreton I. Moreton I. and North Solitary I. Moreton I. & No. 1 Obs. Reef Cor. Haven No. 1 Obs. Reef and No 2 Obs. Reef No, 2 Obs. Reef and Green I. . No. 2 Obs. Reef and Green I. . Green I. and Duchateau Isles Green I. and *Middle Duchateau . Middle Duchateau & Duperre sandbank Middle Duchateau and Lejeune Isle Lejeune I. and Kosmann I. Lejeune I. and East Sable I. . Lejeune I. and West Barrier I. Lejeune I. and West Dumoulin I. Middle Duchateau and *Brumer I Brumer I. and *Dufaure I. . Brumer I. and Cape York Cape York and Damley I. Cape York and Bramble Cay Redscar Bay and Bramble, off Round I. Redscar Bay & Bramble, off C. Rodney Redscar Bay and Bramble, off Dufaui-e Redscar Bay Sc Bramble, off Brumer I. Redscar Bay and Middle Duchateau I. Middle Duchateau I. and Sydney . Sydney and Bay of Is. New Zealand Bay of Is. and Falkland I. o - 6 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 15 15 17 16 16 15 16 9 9 9 10 10 10 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 ]0 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 8 7-5 21-5 12 14 14 16 30 12 42 3 61 16 21 9-5 29-6 39 18-5 56-5 3 12 10 18 10-5 8 19 17 9-5 16-5 17 4 15 36 7 15 2 2-5 38 i 21 13 6 6 3 1 3 5 i) 2-9 3 5 14 17 43 12-5 16 8 16 21 23 31-5 28 18-5 57 Oj <- V- •- a, jn . ^ c X <- o O CJ 00 « tD g i ^ Pi i •0 •8 sec. 15-0 24-8 11-5 10-9 9-3 20-7 14-3 12-3 22-7 6-9 45-1 17-4 16-7 6-6 43-4 52-4 IC'6 90-5 2 6-2 8-5 15-8 16-2 26 24 18 5 4 7 3-8 5-6 23-5 8-3 108 0-7 3-4 23-4 4-2 41 8-2 5-2 3-2 4-6 M 1-9 .^•4 2 2-8 2-7 4-5 15-6 5-0 17-9 7 10-3 7 8 14 17 24 41 7 95 0 o 62to75 66 85 81 85 81 87 79 87 79 85 79 86 82 86 83 88 82 88 82 88 83 88 Meridian distance in Arc. 73 63 44 9 5 13- 3- 8 6- 11 10 9 9 10- 7 4 4 3- o. 1- 2- 6 88 77 67 20 3-5 3 3 3 1 .3-5 4 3 3 3 3 4 2-5 4 2 1-5 3 3 3 3 3 0 / II 2 10 7E 0 4 46W 0 12 7W 0 43 30W 2 1 56W 0 37 7W 3 32 8W 4 20 4W 7 51 23 W 0 4 12W 9 51 56 W 1 19 55E 4 19 51E 5 29 55E 1 5 59W 4 22 47E 22 54 20E 128 3 9E 0 47 15E Mean ^ Mer. distance from Fort Macquarie, Sydney. *1 9 7E *0 53 9W *1 29 58W *8 45 2W *7 20 55W *4 21 51W 0 7 22 24E 9 9W 9 41 W 9 lOE 7W 19E 0 16E 3 55 11 W 6 18 56W 6 19 4E 5 20 3W 0 9 50W 1 38 OOW 0 31 38W 1 17 3W 0 38 18W 0 38 19 W 10 49 lOE 0 1 7E 0 4 29W 0 12 14W 0 26 49W 0 26 48W 0 15 53W 0 16 43 W 0 19 54 W 0 33 26W 0 16 52 W 0 25 47W 0 40 28W 1 4 18 W 2 1 13W 0 35 20W 7 48 19W 13 39E 20 34E 37 45E 35 25E 2 48 41E 3 27 34E 5 29 46E 1 7 30W 22 55 24 E 128 3 9E 1 1 0 1 y*2 9 25E >*0 8 35E *3 55 IIW *6 19 OOW *5 14 19W • • • • *8 40 52W 4 8 34E *0 52 40W *1 27 43W APPENDIX. 335 SPOT OF OBSERVATION. Watering- place near the N.W. end Dry sand, W. extreme of reef Dry sand, E. extreme of reef Centre of Middle I., North side At the ship's anchorage At the ship's anchorage At the ship's anchorage Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay Ditto ditto N.W. end of Island Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay Centre of Bramble Cay Sandy point, N. extremity Pariwara I Centre of Middle I., North side Fort INIacquarie .... Ditto .... Kairaro I., Kororai-eka Bay . In front of Chaplain's house . In the Garden, Tahlee House Watering place on N.W. end of Island Fort Macquarie .... Ditto .... Watering place near N.AV. end of Island At the Observ. spot AV. side of Facing I Ditto ditto Watering place near N.W. end of I. At the Lighthouse Near the Lighthouse, Point Gellibrand Fort Macquarie .... Rocky point, i mile S. of N.W. ex. Goold The same as " Rattlesnake's" On its summit . . . • S. W. side of Island Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay N.W. end of I Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay . Watering place, near N.W. end of I. Summit of Island Dry sand, W. extremity of reef . Dry sand, E. extremity of reef On Coral Islet, near Green I. (S. side) Ditto ditto On the N.E. ex. of Eastern Duchateau Rattlesnake's Observation spot On sandbank E. of Duperre Isles . On N.W. extreme of the I. . On middle of North side of Island Centre of Island .... East end of Island N.W. end, on a detached rock Rattlesnake's anchorage Rattlesnake's anchorage Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay . East end of Treacherous Bay On the centre of the Cay On board the " Bramble," at anchor Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Ditto ditto On centre of N. side of Island Fort Macquarie .... Kairaro I. Kororareka Bay . Near Chaplain's house, Stanley, E. Falkl I Latitude of Spot of Observation. REMARKS. 0 27 11 11 11 10 10 9 10 10 10 10 9 9 11 33 33 35 51 32 27 33 33 27 23 23 27 39 37 33 18 16 *U 13 10 *29 11 11 11 11 11 *11 11 11 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 *9 9 9 10 // 44 S 39 S 30 S 51 S 30 S 36 S US 31 S 31 S 58 S 31 S .38 S 21S 51 S 33 S 33 S OS 19S 18S 44 S 33 S 33 S 44 S 45 S 45 S 44 S 58 S 31 S 33 S 33 S 57 S 13 S 21 S 31S 5 18 21 16 45 30 16 41 41 14 41 8 14 16 51 51 16 41 40 5 51 51 5 51 51 o 29 52 51 9 55 15 54 41 none observ, 10 41 31 S 27 5 56 18 21 8 8 16 10 10 10 4 10 5 54 45 30 41 35 8 58 16 44 S 8S 39 S 30 S 36 S 36 S 45 S 51 S 48 S 38 S 20 S 6S 36 S 20 S SOS 36 S 31 S OS 38 S 53 S 20 S n 16 51S 33 51 33 S 35 16 OS 51 41 19S N.B. — The distances in the Louisiade and New Guinea are calculated with the mer. dist. of the Sextant Rock, Cape York, assumed to be 8*' 40' 50" W. of Sydney, to adapt them to the original A of the N.E. '^Coast of Australia. *One measurement *One measurement A A A A A A A A A A The mean of 4 measurements [to Observ. spot by Charts Measured to Sail Rocks, &;reduced Mean of 3 measurements One measurement Mean of 2 measurements One measurement *By Capt. King's Sextant Mean of 4 measurements Two measurements *Capt. King's Sext. Sea horizon Repeated *By triangulation N.B. — The distances in the Louisiade and New Guinea are ^calculated with the mer. dist. of the Sextant Rock, Cape York, assumed to be 8" 40' 50" W. of Sydney, to adapt them to the original A of the N.E. Coast of Austraha. *From Chart A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A The following is a summary of the results obtained from the Chronometric measurements of H. M. S. ''Rattlesnake" and ''Bramble/' gi^^ng a proportionate value to each, according to the number of T. K/s employed. "K Longitude E. SPOT OF OBSERTATION. Mean Mer. distance from Fort CO of Greenwich, assuming the longitude of Observed TiHtitiidp Instrument used to ohcprpp Initials of Observers of Macquarie, ■♦J Fort Macquarie J_4C1I.1I>UU.C T-ntitiiHp Latitude. Sydney. to be 151° 14' 47 "E. Xjdltl tuut?* Parramatta Observatory 0 t II 0 13 13 w 0 ; // 151 1 34E 0 / y/ 33 48 50 S From Naut. Aim. Eden Jetty, Twofold Bay . 1 17 53 w 149 56 54E 37 4 20 S Circle. 0. S. Gabo Island 1 18 35 vv 149 56 12E None observed. Lighthouse, Pt. Gellibrand, 6 19 29 w 144 55 18E 37 52 31 S Az. & Alt. o.s. Pi;. Philip Lighthouse, Kent's Group . 3 55 11 w 147 19 36E 39 28 58 S Sext. C. B. Y. Rossbank Observatory, Ho- 3 52 39 w 147 22 8E 42 52 10 S Circle and O.S. barton Az. Alt. Tahlee H., Port Stephens 0 47 15 E 152 2 2E 32 40 18 S Capt. King N. pt. of Lagoon Bay, Port 4 24 56 ^Y. 146 49 51E None Dalrymple observed. North Sohtary Island . 2 10 35 E 153 25 22E 29 56 8 S Sext. C. B. Y. Moreton I. watering place. 2 9 28 E 153 24 15E 27 5 44S Seahor.Cir. 0. S. N.W. end & Az. Alt. Obs. spot, W. side Facing I. 0 8 36 E 151 23 23E 23 51 45 S Az. & Alt. O.S.,C.B.Y. Port Curtis and Sext. and J. D. Port Molle, near Sandy Bay, 2 21 53 W 148 52 54E 20 19 48 S Az. Alt. O.S. E. side of harbour Cape Upstart, Sandy Bay 3 27 37 W 147 47 lOE 19 42 3S Az. Alt. OS. near Cape Mound Islet, Rockingham B. 5 3 27 W 146 11 20E 17 55 25 S Circle. O.S. Fitzroy I. sandy beach, W. 5 13 27 w 146 1 20E 16 55 57 S Circle. O.S. side East Hope I., beach on W. 5 44 52 w 145 29 55E 15 43 45 S Circle. O.S. side Lizard I. sandy beach, W. 5 44 45 w 145 30 2E 14 39 56 S Circle. O.S. side West Pipon I., S.W. side 6 40 59 w 144 33 48E 14 7 9S Circle. 0. S. C. reef dry sand, off Resto- 7 42 24 w 143 32 23E 12 34 50 S Az. Alt. VV. H. 0. ration I. Sextant Rock, Evans' Bay, 8 41 33 ^Y 142 33 14E 10 41 31 S Az. Alt. W. H. 0. C. York Port Essington, Government 19 5 23 w 132 9 24E 11 22 2S Az. Alt. AV. H. 0. House Booby Island 9 19 51 vv 141 54 56E 10 35 56 S A n. Bramble Cay 7 21 23 w 143 53 24E 9 8 38 S Az. Alt. W. H. 0. Pariwara I. (N. side) Red- 5 9 25 w 146 5 22E 9 14 25 S Az. Alt. W. H. 0. scar Bay Middle Duchateau Island . 1 7 50 E 152 22 37E 11 16 51 S Circle. O.S. No. 1 Obs. reef, Coral haven. 2 4 48 E 153 19 35E 11 18 39 S Circle. 0. S. Louisiade Kairaro I., Bay of Islands, 22 54 40 E 174 9 27E 35 16 OS Sext. W. H. 0. New Zealand Chaplain's House, Stanley, 150 57 49 E 57 47 24W 51 41 19S Az. Alt. W. H 0- E. Falkland Initials : 0. S.— Captain Owen Stanley. C. B. Y.— Lieut. C. B, Yule. J. D.— Lieut. J. Dayman. W. H. 0.— Mr. Obree. APPENDIX. 337 No. III. Observations of the mean magnetic inclination made on shore in the Voyage of II. M.S. Rattlesnake, by Lieut. Joseph Bay- man, R.N. histrnments employed : Robinson^ s 6-inch Inclinometer ; Fox^s Dipping Apparatus. The following tables contain the absolute determinations of the magnetic inclination and declination made in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake on shore. A very large series made almost daily at sea with Fox's instrument and the Azimuth Compass require several corrections before they are fit for publication. Madeira. In Mr. Veitch's verandah, Funchal, by Robinson's Needle, A. . . . . . 59M1' 7 N Ditto ditto, by Fox's Needle, A CO 40 2 N On the summit of the Pico dos Bodes, ditto . 64 10 5 N Ther. 64. Ditto angle of deflection, 2 grains ditto . 33 13 6 Ther. 59. Funchal ditto, 2 grains 38 8 8 Rat Islandj Rio de Janeiro. By Robinson's Needle, A. 1 . . . 12 15 1 S Ditto A. 2 . . . 12 19 1 S INIean 12 17 1 S Simon s Bay, Cape of Good Hope. In the dockyard near the Observation spot of Ere- bus and Terror, by Fox's Needle A, with index error applied . . • . 53 40 0 S Tonaeliers Island, Port Louis, Mauritius. Bv Robinson's Needle, A 1 . . . 53 48 9 S Ditto A 2 . . . 53 48 8 S Mean 53 48 8 S VOL. I. 2 338 APPENDIX. HohartoUy Van Diemens La7id, At the Magnetic Observatory, Ross bank, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . . . 70«36'.OS Ditto A 2 . . . 70 41 5 S Mean 70 38 7 S Port Jackson. On Garden Island, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . 62 45 3 S Ditto ditto A 2 . 62 47 7 S Mean 62 46 5 S Port Cui'tis, N.E. Coast of Australia. On Facing Island, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . 51 28 9 S Ditto A 2 . 51 30 9 S Mean 5 1 29 9 S No. 1 . Percy Island, In a sandy Bay, on North side of Island, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . . . 49 3 5 S Ditto A 2 . . . 49 0 2 S Mean 49 1 8 S Keppel Island. In a small Bay, on North side, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . . . . 50 46 6 S Ditto ditto . . 50 49 5 S IMean 50 48 0 S Moreton Bay, Near the N.W. end of Moreton Island, by Robin- son's Needle, A 1 . . . . 55 20 1 S Ditto A 2 . . . . 55 13 5 S Mean 55 16 8 S APPENDIX. 339 Port Phillip. Near Capt. Banbury's House, Williamstown, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . . . 67" 12'. 7 S Ditto A 2 . . . 67 16 7 S Mean 67 14 7 S Port Dalrtjmple, V. D. Land, In Lagoon Bay, by Robinson's Needle, A 1 . 69 29 0 S Ditto A 2 . 69 19 5 S Mean 69 24 2 S Swan Island f Banks' Strait. Near the Lighthouse, by Fox's Needle B, with index error applied . . . 68 56 1 S Port Jackson. On Garden Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . 62 48 9 S Ditto ditto A 2 . 62 39 1 S April 1848 Mean 62 44 0 S Rockingham Baij, N.E. Coast of Australia. On Mound Islet, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . 44 15 5 S Ditto ditto A 2 . 44 10 6 S Mean 44 13 0 S No. 2. Barnard Island. On the West Point of the Island, with Fox's Needle C (index error applied) . . . 44 8 8 S Low Isles, Trinity Bay. On the North Point of North Low Islet, Fox's Needle C (index error applied) . . 42 22 4 S Lizard Island. On the West side of the Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . . . . 39 32 9 S Ditto A 2 . . . . 39 31 8 S Mean 39 32 3 S z 2 o 40 APPENDIX. No. 5. Claremont Isle. On the North side of the Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . . . . 38" 11^9.8 Cape York. In Evans Bay, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . 33 10 2 S Ditto bv Fox's Needle C, corrected for index error . . . . . 33 8 4 S 33 9 3 S Port Essington. In Proa Bay, 1 mile west of Settlement, by Fox's Needle C (with error applied) . . 35 14 6 S On board the ship, at anchor at Port Essington, same needle corrected for local attraction and index error ; . . . 33 48 0 F^ Note. — The observations on board the ship at this station are the nearest to the truth, there being much iron-stone strewed over the country about the observation spot on shore. Port JacJison. Garden Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1, March 1849 ..... 62 44 2 S Moreton Bay. On the N.W. side of Moreton Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . . . . 55 21 3 S Coral Haven^ Loidsiade Archipelago, On a patch of Coral near Pig Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . . . . 32 35 2 S Ditto by Fox's Needle, index error apphed . . . 32 33 0 S Mean 32 34 1 S Duchdteau Islands, Louisiade Archipelago. On the Middle Island, by Robinson's Needle A 1 32 48 6 S Ditto Fox's Needle B (with index error applied) . . . 32 56 4 S Mean 32 52 5 S APPENDIX. 341 Cape York. In Evans Bay, by Robinson's Needle A 1 . 33o 22'. 4 S Bramble Cay, South Coast of New Guinea. By Fox's Needle B, with index errror applied . 31_49 2 S Garden Island, Port Jackson. By Fox's Needle A, corrected for index error, &c. 62 44 9 S Ditto B ditto . 62 44 9 S Ditto C ditto . 62 44 9 S Bay of Islands, New Zealand. Near Kororareka Bay, by Fox's Needle A, corrected for index error . . . , 59 37 6 S Ditto B . 59 44 2 S Ditto C . 59 28 1 S Mean 59 36 6 S East Falkland Island. Near the Chaplain's house at Stanley, by Fox's Needle A, corrected for index error . . 52 19 6 S B Ditto . . . 51 43 3 S C Ditto . . . 50 58 8 S Mean 51 40 6 S At the Observation spot of the Erebus and i error near the old settlement, Berkeley Sound, by Fox's Needle B, corrected for index error . 51 25 6 S Fayal, Azores. In the Consul's garden, Horta, by Fox's Needle B, corrected for index error . . . 66 58 4 N Ditto ditto A 67 26 9 N Mean dl 12 6 N 342 APPENDIX. The following absolute determinatious of the magaetic declina- tion were made with a declinometer, and A.M. and P.M. azimuths of the sun : WilHam Town, Port Phillip . *. 9° 1 0' 52" E Lagoon Bay, Port Dalrymple, V. D. Land . 10 29 16 E ^ Garden Island, Port Jackson, March and April, 1848 . . . . . 9 6 43 E Mound Islet, Rockingham Bay, N.E. Coast of Australia .... Lizard Island . . ditto Evans Bay, Cape York, North Coast of Aus- tralia ..... Garden Island, Port Jackson, March and April, 1849 .... Moreton Island, East Coast of Australia Coral Haven, Louisiade Archipelago Duchateau Isles ditto Bramble Cay, S.E. Coast of New Guinea Kororareka Bay, Bay of Islands, New Zealand 13 2/ 20 E Stanley, East Falkland Island, July 1850 . 16 54 46 E 6 19 18 E 5 46 7E 4 42 31 E 10 9 10 E 9 21 14 E 7 44 17E 7 14 5E 4 22 37 E Tai.:. Wuskd*! W noD^ lin T&W.Booiie,Pti]DlLshers.Londoii,1851 APPENDIX. 343 No. IV. An Account of the Polyzoa, and Sertularian Zoo- phytes, collected in the Voyage of the Rattlesnake, on the Coasts of Australia and the Louisiade Archipelago^ Sfc. By George Busk, F.R.S, This collection includes about eighty-five species, dis- tributed in twenty-nine genera, and may perhaps be regarded as the largest and most interesting of the kind ever brought to this country. When it is stated that seventy-eight of the species are new or undescribed, the number will appear extraordinarily great, but when the comparatively neglected state of exotic Zoophytology is considered the wonder will be much diminished, and still further, as it may safely be assumed, that many of the species here given as new have been previously noticed, though so insufficiently described, as in the absence of figures not to admit of correct identifi- cation. Making, however, a considerable deduction on this account, the remainder will still stamp the present collec- tion with extreme value. As an instance, may be cited the genus Catenicella, of which this collection affords about fifteen species, and of which certainly not more than three have been previously noticed in any way, and of these no sufficient descriptions or figures are extant by which even that small number could be identified. The explanation of this is perhaps to be sought in the circumstance that the species of Catenicella are deep sea forms, and oidy to be obtained by dredging in deep water — very few bein apparently found on the shores. (T fe> 344 APPENDIX. Though the number of new or supposed new species is so great_, the number of new genera is comparatively small, not amounting to more than four. It has, however, been found necessary considerably to modify the characters of several other estabhshed genera, so as to include new species. . With respect to the geographical distribution of the species, my means of comparison have been pretty exten- sive. They have been derived from the examination of Mr. Darwin^s and Dr. Hooker's collections, placed at my disposal by the kind liberality of Mr. Darwin, — a con- siderable collection of South African species mainly pro- cured from Mr. Bowerbank — and from the Collection of British and exotic Zoophytes in the British Museum, for the freest opportunities of examining Avhich I have to thank Mr. Gray. From these various sources, and others of less account, I have been able to examine species from a very considerable extent of the earth's surface — more especially in the Southern hemisphere, and to arrive perhaps at as fair a \iew of the geographical distribution of species as tlie present imperfect state of Zoophytology will allow. POLYZOA. The number of species of Polyzoa is about fifty -four — belonging to twenty-foiu' genera. Of these genera it is beheved that four will be found to be new, or liitherto undescribed, and it has been deemed requisite to modify the characters of several others upon the more extended survey of species afforded mainly by the present collection. The new genera here instituted are : Calpidium JDidijmia Diachoris Dimetopia APPENDIX. 345 And the genera whose characters it has been found requi- site to modify are : Catenicella Cauda Salicornaria Emma Cellularia Acamarchis Scrupocellaria Caberea. Bicellaria Of the twenty-four genera^ three, or perhaps four, appear to be pecuHar to the AustraUan seas. These are : Calpidium Didymia Cauda ? Dimetopia. All the rest, excepting two, Emma and Diachoris, appear to be distributed over the globe in both hemispheres. The above two are perhaps limited to the southern. Of the fifty -three species, about thirty-three seem to be new, or to have been so imperfectly described as not to admit of precise identification, and five others have syno- nyms more or less doubtful applied to them. Six species only are common to the seas of Europe, Adz. : Tuhulij)ora plialangea? Anguinaria spatulata Crisia denticulata Acamarchis neritina Eucratea chelata Retepora celhdosa. Sixteen others are met Avith in other parts of the Southern hemisphere, viz. : Catenicella elegans? Catenicella cribraria ventricosa cornuta Eschara lichenoides, oc- Celhdaria monotrypa curring in Algoa Bay ; Bicellaria tuba^ in New Caberea Zelanica Zealand ; and Acamarchis tridentata, in Emma crystallina Algoa Bay and New Zealand; tricellata, in New Caberea lata Zealand and CampbelFs Is- Catenicella hastata land. Thus of the fifty-foui- species, about thii'ty-foui' would 346 APPENDIX. seem to be peculiar to the Australian seas. Ten of these belong to the genus Catenicella, and one to the closely- allied Calpidium, three to Didymia and Dimetopia^ and one to Diachoris, of which genus two other species are found in the Straits of Magellan. The method according to which the Polyzoa are ar- ranged, is, in the primary divisions at least, pretty nearly identical with that indicated in the Synopsis of the Fami- lies and Genera of Polyzoa Infundibulata, given in Dr. Johnston's " British Zoophytes.''* A few words, however, will be necessary to explain more particularly the subsequent subdi^dsions here adopted. The order, Polyzoa infundibulata, is divided into three suborders, coinciding very nearly with the Tubuliporina, Celleporina, and Vesicularina of the work above referred to, but as the characters of these suborders are derived from the conformation of the opening of the cell, I have thought it more convenient to name them accordingly. The first suborder, having a round, simple opening to the cell, is here termed the Cyclostomata ; the second, with the opening of the cell filled up by a usually thin, mem- branous or calcareous velum, and with a crescentic mouth pro\ided with a moveable lip, the Cheilostomata ; and the third suborder, which might perhaps include the Hal- cyonellea of Ehrenberg, as well as the Vesiculariadse, dis- tinguished by the existence of a more or less well-marked fringe of setae (sometimes only rudimentary) around the opening of the cell when the animal is protruded, the Ctenostomata. The following synoptical arrangement — which it must be remarked, includes only the genera occurring in the Rattlesnake collection — will serve to indicate the subse- quent divisions. * Vol. 1, p. 263, 2nd Edit. APPENDIX. 347 Sf/nojytical Arrangement of the Poltjzoa included in the llattlesmihe Collection. Suborder I. CYCLOSTOMATA (Tubuliporiua) . Fam. 1. TuBULiPORiD^. Gen. 1. Tubiilipora. Sp. 1. T. jihalangea? 2. Pustulipora. 2. P. australis) 11. sp. 3. Idmonea. 3. I. radians. Fam. 2. Crisiad^e. 4. Crisia. 4. C denticulata. 5. C. acrojjora, n. sp. Suborder II. CHEILOSTOMATA (Celleporina) . §. 1. UNISERIALARIA. Fam. 1. Catenicellid^. 5. Catenicella. a. fenestratae. 6. C. ha^tata, n. sp. ? 7. C amphora, n. sp. 8. C. maj-garitacea, n.si^. 9. C. ventricosa, n. sp. 10. C. plagiostoma, n. sp. 11. C lorica, n. sp. 12. C cribaria, n. sp. &. vittatse. 13. C. formosa, u. sp. 14. C gibhosa, n. sp. 15. C eleyans, n. sp. 16. C connttaf n. sp. 17. C ujuhonnto, u. sp. 348 APPENDIX. c. inermes. 18. C. carinata, n. sp. 6. Calpidium, n. g. 19. C. ornatum, n. sp. Fam. 2. Eucratiad^. 7. Eucratea. 20. jEJ. chelata, 8. Anguinaria. 21. ^. spatulata. § 2. MULTISERIALARIA. 1. Articidata. a. internodes elongated^ multicellular. Earn. 1. Salicornahiad^. 9. Salicornaria. 22. 8. 'punctata, n. sp.? 23. >S. bicornis^ n. sp. 24. *S. dichotoma, n. sp. 25. S'. marginata, n. sp. Earn. 2. Cellulariad^. 10. Cellularia. 26. C. monotrypa, n. sp. 11. Scrupocellaria. 27. -S. cervicornis, n. sp. 28. *S. diadema, n. sp. 29. >S. cyclostoma, n. sp. 30. S.ferox, n. sp. 12. Canda. 31. C araclmoides. h. internodes sliort^ 2 — 4 celled. 13. Emma. 32. E. crystalllna. 33. £^. tricellata, n. sp. 2. Tnartlculata . Eam. 3. Bicellariad^. 14. Bicellaria. APPENDIX. 349 34. B. tuba, n. sp. 35. J3. gracilis, n. sp. 36. B. grandis, n. sp. 37. B. flexilis, n. sp. 15. Acamarchis. 38. ^. neritina. 39. ^. tridentata. Fam. 4. CABEREADiE. 16. Caberea. 40. C. rudis, n. sp. 41. C. Zelanica. 42. C. lata, n. sp.? Fam. 5. Flustrad^. 17. Flustra. 43. F. pyriformis ? 44. F, denticidata, n. sp. 18. Retepora. 45. R. cornea^ n. sp.? 46. R. cellulosa. 47. B' ctenostonia, n. sp. 19. Escliara. 48. E. lichenoides. 20. Diaclioris, n. g. 49. D. Crotali, n. sp. Fam. 6. CELLEPoniDiE. 21. Cellepora. 50. C. hilahiata, 11. sp. ? Fam. 7- Gemellariad^e. 22. Didymia^ n. g. 51. -D. simplex, n. sp. 23. Dimetopia, n. g. 52. Z). spicata, n. sp. 53. -D. cornuta, n. sp. Suborder III. CTENOSTOMATA. (Vesicularina, &c.) Fam. 1. Vesiculariad^e. 24. Amathia. 54. A. biseriuta. 350 APPENDIX. Suborder 1. CYCLOSTOMATA. Earn. 1. TUBULIPORID^. 1. TuBULiPORA^ Lamarck. 1. T. phalangea. Couch. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. A small, imperfect specimen, which may be referred to the variety noticed in " British Zoophytes," and figured PI. 46, fig. .3, 4. 2. PusTULiPORA, Blainville. 1. P. avstraliSj n. sp. P. deflexa ? Couch. Branched dichotomously ; branches short, incrassated, truncate. Cells wholly immersed, or about half free, numerous ; surface minutely papillose, summits of papillae of a dark brown or black colour. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms ; and elsewhere in the Australian seas. About half an inch high. The stem becomes thicker as it ascends, and divides into two equal short branches, each of which again subdivides into two short truncate branches, in a plane at right angles to the primary divi- sion. The cells in the upper part of the stem appear free for nearly half their length, and are gently curved out- wards. The surface is covered with pretty regularly and quincuncially arranged minute papillae, the apex of each of which is flattened or rounded, and of a dark brown or black colour. The mode of subdivision of the polyzoary, and the truncated ends of the branches, and the more numerous cells, suffice to distinguish this species from P. prohoscidea. The cells in the figiire of P. deflexa appear to be much more slender in proportion, and the branches in that species are not truncated, but attenuated at the extremity. APPENDIX. 351 3. Idmonea, LamoiirouT, 1. /. radians, M. Edwards. Ann. de Sc. N. torn. 9, p. 25, PI. 12, fig. 4. Retepora radians, Lamarck. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. One minute specimen, but very perfect, has been ex- amined; but it is undoubtedly the one described and figured by M. Edwards, and noticed by Lamarck as inhabiting the seas of New Holland. M. Edwards^ doubt therefore as to this locality is now removed. Earn. 2. CRISIAD.E. 4. Crista, Lamonronx. 1. C. denticulata, Fleming. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic upon a species of Salicornaria. The only difference, if there be any, between this form and the British, consists in the rather greater projection or freedom of the extremities of the cells, which are curved towards the front. 2. C. acropora, n. sp. Cells 9 to 13 in each mternode ; lateral branches given off between the 1st and 2nd, or between the 2nd and 3rd cells above a joint. A small conical tooth, sometimes bifid, above and behind the mouth. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A small parasitic species, distinguished from C. denti- culata, which it much resembles, by the less average number of cells in each internode, and the less number intervening between the origin of a branch and the joint below it, and by the small conical tooth or tubercle above and behind, or to the outer side of the mouth. 352 APPENDIX. Suborder II. CHEILOSTOMATA. § 1. Uniserialaria. Cells disposed in a simple series. Fam. 1 . CATENICELLID^. Cells connected by flexible joints. 5. CATENICELLA, M. Edwards, (Lamarck, An. s. Vert. t. ii, p. 181.) Cells arising one from the upper and back part of ano- ther by a sbort corneous tube, and disposed in a linear series, all facing the same way, and forming dicbotomously divided branches of a phytoid polyzoary ; cells geminate at the bifurcation of the branches ; each cell furnished with two lateral processes usually supporting an a^dcularium. Ovicells either subglobose and terminal, or galeriform and placed below the mouth of a cell in front. This interesting and important genus may be regarded as characteristic, not only of the present collection, but perhaps also of the Australian seas, as far as the Polyzoa are con- cerned. Thirteen species are here described, and as it has been found extremely difficult in most cases to identify any of them with the very few hitherto noticed forms, the synonyms given must be regarded as at least extremely doubtful. Each cell arises from the upper and back part of another, with the intervention of a short corneous tube which is prolonged from the interior of one cell to that of the one above. The cell is furnished on each side at the top with an usually well-developed avicularium, in some species of huge size, and in some very minute, or entirely aborted. This avicularian process in most cases supports above a hollow process, which is sometimes closed and more or less elon- gated, constituting a conical or acerose spine, sometimes open above and assuming the form of a shallow cup or re- ceptacle. In some species both modifications of this portion of the lateral process are met with in the same specimen. This form of spine or cvip — as the case may APPExVDIX. 35* be, is always distinctly separated by a septum from the cavity of the avicularium itself. Below the avicularium there is also in many cases a third distinct cavity which is usually widely open, the opening being covered in very frequently by a convex transparent memlirane, and its bot- tom apparently perforated by several minute foramina— from this part of the lateral process there is in many spe- cies a prominent ala or keel prolonged to the bottom of the cell — which ala not unfrequently divides into two branches, which, again coalescing at the bottom of the cell, cii'cumscribe a more or less oval space, the bottom of which is also perforated by minute foramina or apparent foramina, and which is often covered over by a transparent convex membrane. This membrane, hov»^ever, as well as that which covers in thesubavicularian space, is more usually broken off and wanting. The inferior oval space above described is here termed the lateral area, and it is employed in the specific charac- ters. It would thus be correct to say — that each cell is furnished with two lateral processes, each of which in the fully developed state consists of three distinct compart- ments,— one superior, a cup or spine : a middle one, wliich is the a\dcularium : and an inferior; and it would appear that one or more of these elementary compartments of the lateral process may be more developed than the next, or sometimes enth'ely aborted. The mouth of the cell is situated at the upper part in front, and is of the same con- formation as in the rest of the Cheilostomatous sub-order. An important generic character consists in the gemination of the cell at each bifurcation.* These characters are common to all the species included in the genus, which furthermore admits of being subdivided into two extremely natural sections or subgenera, (or per- haps into three). These subdivisions are named respec- tively the " fenestratae," and the " vittatse." * Tab. I. fig. 1, 2. VOL. I. 2 A 354 APPENDIX. In the fenestrate diAdsion^ in the whole of which the cells are of larger size and stronger than in the other^ the wall of the cell appears to be constituted of at least two distinct laminae. The external lamina^ on the front of the cell^ is perforated by a certain nnniber of holes, is wanting rather in a certain number of spaces, for which spaces the term " fenestrse^^ is employed. These apparent openings do not, therefore, penetrate into the cavity of the cell. But besides the fenestrse, there is, in some cases, a small central opening which does penetrate through the wall. In most cases the fenestrse are arranged in a crescentic, or rather horse-shoe shaped line, indicative, as it were, of the hmits of a regular oval space, in the front wall of the cell, the upper part of which oval would be formed by the mouth, and the remainder filled up by the deposition of cal- careous matter, as happens for instance in the older cells towards the bottom of the polyzoary in certain Cellula- rise, &c. A further characteristic of the fenestrate Catenicellse is the terminal position of the ovicells. These organs are clearly transformed cells, or cells dilated to considerably more than theii' natui-al bulk, and assuming a sub globose form. And what is worthy of remark, these terminal ovicells always have a sessile avicularium on the summit. In the " Yittatse" the cell is smaller, and usually more delicate and transparent. They probably want the outer lamina, or have it very thin, and consequently present no fenestrate spaces, and the front of the cell is beset (sometimes very sparingly) with more or less prominent, minute, acuminate ^^papillse." On each side, sometimes on the anterior aspect, sometimes quite laterally, is a narrow elongated band or '^ ^dtta,'^ as it is here designated, from which the distinctive sectional appellation is derived. This band or stripe varies in width and proportionate length and position in different species ; it is slightly ele- vated, and marked with larger, or small circular discoid, or APPENDIX. 355 acuminated eminences. This subdivision is further dis- tinguished by the situation of the o^icells^ which are not terminal but occur at irregular intervals on cells in the coui'se of the series. They are of the same galeate form as in many others of the Escharinse^ but are not as in them placed above the mouth of the cell,, but below it in front : and in all cases the shape of the ovicell-bearing cell is much altered from the rest^ and in all the vittate species the cell upon which the ovicell is produced arises from its predecessor, not with the intervention of a short tube, but is immediately sessile upon it, by a broad base. a. FenestratcB. Cells large, fenestrate in front ; ovicells terminal. 1. G. hastata, n. sp. ? C. bicvspis ^ Gray. Dieffenbach^s New Zealand, Vol. ii. p. 293. Fenestrse, 7 — 9, disposed in a crescent, and with elon- gated fissures radiating towards them from the median line. Avicularia supporting a large pyi'amidal pointed hollow process, compressed, and perforated before and behind by five or six small circular pores. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Of a yellowish white colour, sometimes reddish. Forms fine bushy tufts, with long wa^^ branches, arising from a short common stem, and it attains a height of five or six inches. It appears sometimes to be parasitic upon other polyzoa, and is then much smaller. Its peculiar charac- teristics are the perforated and striated scutiform area on the front of the cell and the perforated, or apparently perforated pyramidal lateral processes above each avicu- larium ; these processes are much developed, and give the cell the form of a broad inverted shear-head It seems to be an abundant species in Bass' Strait, and it occurs also in New Zealand. (Dr. Hooker^s Collection.) 2 A 2 356 APPENDIX. 2. C. amphora, n. sp. Cellaria catenulata ? var. B. Lamarck. Anim. sans Vert. Vol. ii. p. 180, (2nd ed.). Cells oval, sides rendered straight upwards by tlie broad a^dcularia wbicb are prolonged upwards into an acute spinous angle, and support a shallow cup. Front of cell with nine pyriform fenestrse, with fissures proceeding from tlieir pointed ends towards an oval central perfora- tion. An elevated band, extending from the sides of the mouth to the upper angular processes of the avicularia. An elevated flattened band along the middle of the back, which at the top sends off a narrower lateral band to each avicularian spine. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A fine species of a bright reddish brown, and in the younger cells very transparent. Forms small, irregularly branched bushes, four to six inches high and wide. It is pecuhar by its extremely regular vase-like form of cell, which is given by the continuation upwards of the broad avicularia in nearly a straight line, and their prolongation into a sharp angular spine, on the inner side of which is a shallow cube-hke cavity, whose sides are usually more horny than calcareous. The number of fenestrse appears to be very constant. The length of the branches before their dividing, and their straightness, together with the colour of this species, render it not improbable that it is the form intended by Lamarck, (1. c). 3. C. margaritacea , n. sp . Cellaria vesiculosa ? Lamarck. Cells oval or sub-globular, much compressed ; avicularia short and broad, supporting a deep cup-like cavity. Fenestrse 5, large. Lower margin of mouth notched in the middle ; back of cell minutely sulcated ; sulci short, interrupted, and irregular. A small lateral " area." APPENDIX. 35/ Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait. A very beautiful species, the branches resembling strings of minute pearls. The pearly lustre (in the dry state) owing without doubt to the minute sulci on the backs of the cells. These sulci are not, however, consequent upon the drying, because they are equally apparent and constant when the specimen has been immersed in fluid. The species may almost at once be distinguished by the notch in the lower margin jaf the mouth, which notch repre- sents the central suboval opening present in some other species. 4. C. ventricosa, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 1. Cells oval, compressed, rather wide below ; avicularia wide, supporting sometimes a cup-hke ca\ity, sometimes a closed broad conical spine. The prehensile part of the a^dcularium itself small, seated in a deep notch below the acuminate summit; lateral area large and well defined. Fenestree ^, with fissures radiating to a rounded central opening. Anterior sm-face of cell studded with minute acummate papillse ; posterior surface smooth, sometimes spotted. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour dirty white or brown. Habit stiflP, stem strong, straight, branches short and crowded — probably attains a height of four or five inches. The only other species with which it can be confounded is C amphora, from which it difi'ers in the greater size and more irregular form of the lateral processes, in the pre- sence of the minute papillae on the surface, and in the absence of the narrow longitudinal band on the back ; instead of which the older cells in C. ventricosa exhibit a sort of broad scutum, almost covering the back of the cell and sending off two lateral bands on the sides of the cell, one passing below the avicularium and above the lateral area, and the other towards the acuminated apex of the avicularium. It also wants the raised bands which in C, 358 APPENDIX. amplwra pass from the sides of the mouth to the apex of the aviculariiim in front. One large specimen presents a variety worthy of note — in this the backs of all the cells, except one here and there, exhibit (internally ?) numerous irregular- sized leopard-like spots. 5. C. placj 10 stoma, n. s^. Cells short- ovoid ; a"^dcularia very large and long, ascend- ing from near the bottom of the cell into an acute spinous point, and supporting a deep cupped cavity ; mouth placed obliquely; front of cell divided into fine large subtri- ano'ular fenestrse bv foui^ broad bands. Back of cell with a broad central band and two narrower bands branching from it on each side ; surface of spaces left uncovered by the bands on the back beset mth scattered, long setose spines. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour brownish white; habit stiff, branches short. This species is at once recognisable by the peculiar oblique position of the mouth — the enormously developed avicula- rium usually only on one side of the cell, and by the sculpture of the cell — which appears as if it were swathed with broad tapes or bands. The wide spaces left between the bands in front clearly represent the true nature of the fenestrse of other species. It is the only species furnished with elongated setose spines. 6. C. lorica, n. sp. Cellar ia catenulata ? Lamarck. Cells elongated rhomb oidal, truncated at each end. Fenestrse three, large, the lowest the largest, arranged in a triangle. Mouth very large ; avicularia wide and strong ; two lateral arese on each side, well developed ; surface in front with a few indistinct circular spots around the fenes- tree, and behind marked with faint longitudinal striae. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. APPENDIX. 359 Coloiu' wliite^ transparent. A fine widely branching species^ in wliich the catenulate aspect is more e\ident to the eye than in almost any other. It is at once recognisa- ble by the rhomboidal scutate form of the cell \dewed anteriorly, and, when the back is also viewed, the resem- blance of the two aspects to the back, and breast-plates of a coat of mail, is very striking. The structm^e of the lateral processes is more distinctly to be made out in this species than in any other. Each lateral process consists, 1st, of a deep cuplike cavity above ; 2nd, a middle compartment, the aviculariam ; and 3rd, a third loculament below the a^dcularium, the wide opening of which is covered in by a convex transparent membrane. The bottom of this locul- ament appears to be perforated, and it is to be noticed also that there is a small central perforation in the septum separating it from the cavity of the avicularium. Towards the bottom of the cell, on each side, is a well developed lateral area of exactly the same conformation as the sub- a\'icularian loculament, and like it covered in by a convex transparent membrane. It might be supposed that these cavities were for the purpose of containing air, in order to render the otherwise heavy branches of the polyzoary buoyant. They, at all events, appear to be perfectly empty. 7. C. crihraria, n. sp. Cells sub-globular, compressed, more or less alate. A\icularia large, without any superior appendage, and prolonged downwards into elevated lateral alse. Anterior surface with numerous small round fenestrse, placed at equal distances apart, and evenly distributed over the sur- face, the circumferential fenestrse being larger than the rest. A minute central perforation of a crescentic form, the lower lip projecting, and the upper lip, lingidate in the middle, falling behind the lower. jjab, — Bass Strait? This species also occurs in New Zealand. 360 APPENDIX. Colour bro"«'n^ loosely branclied and several inches higli. Distingnislied readily by the cribriform aspect of the front of the cell^ and by the cuiiously formed central orifice, and by the absence of any superior appendage to the avicularium. h. Vittatce. Cells furnished with a narrow elongated band or vitta on each side, without fenestrse. Ovicells not terminal, galeriform. 8. C. formosa, n. sp. Cells oval; avicularia large, flat, or cupped above. Vittse elliptical, rather anterior. Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait. Colour light plumbeous. Parasitic upon C. margaritacea. The cells are the largest of any in the Yittate di^dsion, and very regular and uniform in size and outline. The more distinctive characters are taken from the compara- tively broad vittse, and the flat or cupped upper surface of the a\icularia, which are usually continued downwards into a prominent ridge or aia. 9. C. gibhosa, n. sp. Cells pyriform, ventricose posteriorly, much attenuated at bottom. Avicularia small, placed in front close to the sides of the mouth, at the base of strong conical pointed processes which project in fi^ont, and are connected across the top of the cell by a prominent toothed ridge. Yittse long hnear, entirely lateral. Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms, mud. Of a dark lead colour, when diy. Forms an elegantly branched bush about two inches high. The gibbous form of the cells, and the peculiar anterior position of the avicu- laria, at the base of the projecting lateral processes, at once distinguish it from all tlie other vittate species. The toothed (sometimes entire) ridge extending between the two lateral processes across the top of the cell and APPENDIX. 361 overlapping the moutli like a pent-house is also a very- peculiar featui-e. 10. C. elegans, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 2. Cells elongated ovoid ; avicularia large and projecting, without any superior appendage ; vittse narrow, rather anterior. Hab. — Bass Strait, 48 fathoms. Port Dalrymple, on stones at low water. A delicate and beautiful parasitic species ; the branches slender and spreading ; colour white and very transparent. Cells regular and uniform in size and shape. A very- similar if not identical species occurs in Algoa Bay, South Africa, the only difference between them being that the latter is rather larger and has the vittse much longer ; in the Australian forms these bands do not reach above the middle of the cell, whilst in the South African they extend as high as the mouth. 11. C. cornuta. n. sp. Cells oval ; avicularia in many cells wholly transformed into long pointed retrocedent spines, on one or both sides, in others into shorter spines or unaltered. A'^ittse linear, extremely narrow, entii'cly lateral, and extending the whole length of the cell from the base of the avicularium. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour yellowish white, growth small ; parasitic upon C. amphora. As some difficulty might be experienced in the discrimination of this species from C. elegans, and another South African species (not the variety of C. elegans above noticed), it is requisite to remark that the long retro- cedent spines when present are not placed upon or super- added to the a\dcularia, but tliat they seem to represent an aborted or transformed state of those organs. They vary much in length and size in different cells, and even in those of the same branch ; as it frequently happens that 362 APPENDIX. there is a spine^ usually of diminutive size^ on one side and a very large avicularium on the other, and sometimes (but rarelv) an a\icularium of more moderate size on both sides. But the character of the species by which it is more par- ticularly distinguished consists in the presence on a great many cells, in one part or other of the polyzoary, of the two large and strong spines projecting backwards. Tliis retrocession of the spines is alone a sufficient character to distinguish the present species from the South African form above alluded to (C taurina, B.) And the length and lateral position of the ^dtt£e would distinguish the unarmed cells fi'om those of C. elegans. 12. C umhonata, n. sp. Cells more or less pyriform, alate, narrow below, bulg- ing or ventricose upwards. A^dcularia large and strong. Vittse strap-shaped, anterior, extending from the level of the mouth to the bottom of the cell, with elevated acumi- nate papillae or short spines. A broad compressed project- ing process on the middle of the back. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. The cells in this species are small, inflated or ventricose, and as it w^ere sub -globular above, becoming much at- tenuated below — but the cavity of the cell does not appear to extend into this contracted portion, in which is con- tained the connecting tube strengthened by calcareous matter — the inferior continuation of the lateral alse, which descend from the base of the a\icularium. Owing to the large size of the avicularia, the upper part of the cell is much widened, and the whole acquii'es somewhat of a triangular form, and has a peculiar rugose aspect, derived, in part also, from the large size and elevation of the acuminated papillse, not only of the \dtt8e but on the surface of the cell itself. The central umbo or crest pos- teriorly is a marked feature. APPENDIX. 363 c. Without vittcB or fenestrce. 13. C. carinata, n. sp. Cells oval, narrowed at both ends; lateral processes, (witliout avicnlaria?) projecting horizontally outwards from the sides of the mouth about the midflle of the cell. Mouth nearly central, mth a small tooth on each side, and below it a triangular space with three strong conical emi- nences. The cell which bears the ovicell geminate. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. This remarkable form differs so widely in many respects from any of its congeners, as almost to deserve to be considered as the type of a distinct sub-genus. The lateral processes, which may be taken to represent the perfect avicularia of the other species, are, as far as can be ascer- tained from specimens that have been dried, without a moveable mandible, and are probably really so, because there is no corresponding beak. These processes are chan- nelled in front, nearly from the base to the extremity ; they arise by a broad base on each side of the mouth, and on the front of the cell, and from the conjoined bases is continued upwards and downwards, or to the top and bottom of the cell, a prominent flattened band. Tlie expanded bases circumscribe an oval space, nearly in the centre of the front of the cell, the upper two-thirds of which space are occupied by the circular mouth, on each side of which is a small calcareous tooth, to which appa- rently are articulated the horns of the semilmiar lateral cartilage. The lower third is filled up by a yellow, horny (?) membrane, upon which are placed three conical eminences, disposed in a triangidar manner. The back of the cell is very convex, and has running along the middle of it an elevated crest or keel, which is acuminate in the middle. The ovicell is situated in front of the cell below the mouth, and below it are three considerable-sized areolated spots, disposed, like the three conical spines, in a triangle. The 364 APPENDIX. cells upon which tlie o^dcells are placed are always gemi- nate^ that is to say^ have a smaller cell growing out from one side. 6. Calpidium_, n. gen. Tab. i. tig. 3 — 5. Char. — Cells with an avicularium on each side; with two or three distinct mouths_, arising one from the upper part of another^ in a linear series,, all facing the same way, and forming dichotomously-di\4ded branches ; cells at the bifurcations single; ovicells — ? This very pecuhar genus^ remarkable as it is, seems hitherto to have escaped notice. It is distinguishable from Catenicella, in the first place, by the anomalous cir- cumstance that each cell is fuimished with two or more, usually three, distinct keyliple- shaped mouths, and is doubtless inhabited by three distinct individuals. Whether these are separated from each other by internal partitions is unknown, but the closest examination of cells rendered transparent by means of acid fails to discover such. In cells thus prepared, there are apparent, however, thi'ce distinct masses, reaching from the bottom of the cell to each orifice, and which are probably the remains either of the body or of the retractor muscles of the animals. An- other point of difference from Catenicella is the non-gemi- nation of the cell at the dichotomy of a branch. The avicularia, moreover, do not form lateral projections, but are sessile, or imbedded, as it were, in the sides of the cell immediately below the upper angles. 1. C. ornatum, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 3 — 5. Cells triangular-ui'n shaped, veiy broad above, with a straight border, much compressed; mouths, 2 — 3, keyhole shaped. Five fenestrse below each mouth; numerous branching bands on the back of the cell. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. This curious species is the only one belonging to the genus. The cells are very large, regular, and uniform. APPENDIX. 365 resembling very closely an antique sculptured urn. Coloui' dark brown, and the walls so tliick as to be nearly opaque. The polyzoary, which appears to attain a height of four or five inches, is bipinnate (with all the branches on one plane), the branches alternate, and given off with extreme regularity. The ultimate ramules are incurved. The whole forms a veiy elegant object. The central stem, or series of cells, differs in no respect as regards the size or disposition of the cells composing it, from the branches. Earn. 2. EUCRATIAD^. 7. EucRATEA, Lamouronx. 1. Eucratea chelaia, Lamouroux. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. In all respects identical with the British form. It also occiu's at Port Adelaide. 8. Anguinaria. Lamar ch. \. A. spatulata, Lamarck. ^Etea anguina, Lamouroux. Hab. — Bass Strait, and other locahties. This species (which appears to be pretty generally dis- tributed over the globe) is identical vai\i the Eiu'opean form. It is to be remarked, however, that a second species {A.dilatata,'^\\^\. Ann. Nat. Hist. 2nd Ser. vol. 7, P- 81, pi. 9, fig. 14) is found in Torres Strait, but which does not occur in the Rattlesnake collection. §. 2. Multiserialaria, Cells disposed alternately in a double or multiple series. 1. Articulata. Polyzoary divided into distinct inter- nodes by flexible articulations. a. Internodes elongated, or composed of numerous ceUs. 366 APPENDIX. Fam. 1. SALICOHNARIAD^. Cells disposed around an ideal axis. 9. Salicornaria, Cuvier. a. Surface di\dded into more or less regular hexagonal spaces by elcA^ated ridges. 1. S. punctata, n. sp. Cellaria salicornioides ? Audouin. Savigny, Egypt. PL 6. fig. 7. Hexagonal areas with an acute angle above and below ; bottom of area pjTiform^ surface covered with minute transparent granulations. Mouth of cell in the upper thirds with a minute tooth on each side. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. Off Cimiberland Islands^ 27 fathoms^ fine grey mud. Parasitic upon Sertularians and Polyzoa ; branches strag- gling of irregular lengths. 2. S. bicornis. n. sp. Areas with an obtuse angle above and below, sometimes rounded above ; a minute projection on each side near the top. Bottom of area long-oval, smooth, sometimes with a perforation above the mouth. Mouth mth a minute tooth on each side. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic. Branches shorter and thicker than in the pre- ceding species. In the shape of the area they are very much alike, but in S, bicornis, in some cells, and occa- sionally throughout the greater part of the internode, the area differs widely from the more usual form. It is much expanded, and presents a wide arch above. In this case there is usually a considerable-sized perforation above the mouth of the cell, as occurs not unfrequently also in S . APPENDIX. 367 farciminoides in the younger cells, and which opening is probably normal, until it becomes filled up by the gradual deposition of calcareous matter. What more especially distinguishes the present from the preceding species are the minute projections on either side at the two upper lateral angles of the hexagonal area, and the smoothness of the surface of the cell. They are both perfectly distinct from S. farciminoides. b. Sm-face not divided into distinct areas by raised ridges. 3. S. dichotoma. n. sp. Mouth of cell elliptical, occupying two-thirds of its length. Two small perforations on each side immediately above the mouth, protected by a convex transparent hood, which has a rounded opening on its under suiface. Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel^ Torres Strait, nine fathoms. Forms small crowded tufts from one to two or thi'ce inches high ; branches very regularly dichotomous. 4. S. marginata. n. sp. Cell circumscribed by an acute raised border ; opening oval, rather more than half the length of the cell. Cell attenuated below the opening. Hab.— Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, nine fathoms. A small broken fragment only preserved ; parasitic upon Sertidaria inutulata, so that its habit cannot be satis- factorily determined. It is of a greenish colour, but tliis may be adventitious, although general and uniform throughout the specimen. This species differs fi'om the above in being much larger, and in wanting the two per- forations on each side above the mouth— in the less comparative size of the opening of the cell, and in the 368 APPENDIX. remarkable elevation of tlie sharp margin surrounding tlie upper half of the cell. In the looser aggregation^ and in the form of the cells^ it shews the transition from Salicor- naria to Cellularia. Fam. 2. CELLULARIAD^. Cells disposed in the same plane. 10. Cellularia^ Pallas. Char. (B.) Cells bi-triserial^ oblong* or rhomboidal^ contiguous. Opening of cell occupying at least half of the fi'ont. Margin thickened, sometimes spinous above. A short spine or a sessile a\icularium on the upper and outer angle. A. inarmato: — without a^dcularium. 1. C. monotrypa. n. sp. Cells oblong, narrowed below, with a single perforation, in the upper and outer part behind. Opening oval, mar- gin smooth ; a short spinous process at the upper and outer angle; a sharp short spine in the middle of the upper border of the middle cell, at a bifurcation. Ovicell? in form of a very shallow excavation in the upper part of the cell in front. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. The only species with which this can be confounded, is C. Peachii, (Busk. Annals. Nat. Hist. Vol. 7- 2nd Series, p. 82. PL A^III. fig. 1.) The latter, however, is very much smaller, the cells nar- rower in proportion to their length, and the margin of the opening minutely verrucose. The cell has more than one posterior perforation ; and the central cell at a bifurcation is rounded above and without a spinous process ; lastly, the ovicell is much loftier and tesselated on the surface. * This shape of the cells is given from the back view of them. APPENDIX. 3G9 1 11. ScRUPocELLARiA, Van Beneden. Char, (modified.) Cells rlioinboidid, witli a sinuous depression on the outer and posterior aspect. Each fur- nished with a sessile avicularium at the upper and outer angle in front^ and T\dth a vibraculum placed in tlie sinus on the outer and lower part of the cell behind. Opening ovalj or subrotund, spinous above. Ovicclls galeriform. This natural genus is characterized more particularly by the presence upon each cell of a sessile avicularium seated on, or in fact forming the upper and outer angle, and of a vibraculum placed on the back of the cell. The cells in some species are provided with a pedunculate operculum, by which it is intended to designate a process, which arising by a short tube from the anterior wall of the cell, imme- diately beyond the inner margin of the opening, projects forwards and bends over the front of the cell, expanding into a variously formed limb, and serving as protection to the mouth of the cell in front. The cavity of tlie tube by which the process arises, becomes, in the expanded portion, continuous with variously disposed grooves or channels, which terminate at the edges of the operculum. This organ affords excellent specific characters (not in this genus alone). Besides the sessile a^dcularia above noticed, many species of this genus also possess a\icularia of another kind, and which are placed on the front of the cell below the opening and towards the inner side, or in other words, to- wards the middle line of the branch. In this genus, in all those species in which the second avicularium occurs, each indi^-idual cell is pro\dded with one. This additional avi- cularium appears to be composed of a flexible material, and it is very easily broken off, so that in many instances, per- haps throughout an entire specimen the organ itself may be wanting, although its position is clearly evidenced by the existence of a rounded opening in the usual situation of the organ. It is necessary to distinguish this form of VOL. I. 2 R 370 APPENDIX. flexible (if such it be) a\icularium from the truly articu- lated and moveable avicularia, in tbe form of bird^s heads, and which form does not occur in the genus Scrupocellaria. a, — Operculat^. Cells furnished with a pedunculate operculum. 1. S. cervicornisj n. sp. Veins or channels in the oval operculum, branching so as to resemble the antlers of a stag. The marginal spine next above the pedunculated operculum, bifurcate. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 25 fathoms, fine grey- mud. A small, delicate, parasitic species, very transparent. The very peculiar markings on the operculum at once dis- tinguish it. The upper margin of the mouth is furnished with five elongated spines, the innermost of which is forked at the extremity. 2. S. diadema, n. sp. Cells elongate, external side nearly straight, vibraculum sublateral, very prominent. Limit of operculum entire, or obscurely bi-trilobed. A flexible avicularium in fi'ont. Ovicell usually with a single row of four or five openings immediately above its mouth. Hab. — Moreton Bay. b. Inoperculat^. Cells without a pedunculate oper- culum. 3. >S. cyclostoma^ n. sp. Opening of cell nearly or quite circular, margin much thickened, with three or four short indistinct spines above. Vibraculum sublateral. A flexible avicularium in front. Ovicells — ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. 4. S, ferox, n. sp. Opening of cell broad oval, pointed below ; three short APPENDIX. 371 indistinct spines above ; vibraciilum large, sinus deep. An enormous anterior avicularium, as wide as the cell. 0^d- cell lofty, with numerous punctui'cs over the surface. Hab. — Louisiade Archipelago. Bass Strait. Distinguished from the former species by the enormous anterior avicularium, and the form of the opening. Another peculiarity of this species is the curious serrated appearance of the radical tubes. 12. Canda, Lamouroux. Char. (B.) Cells rhomboidal, sinuated on the outer side for the lodgment of a vibraculum. No sessile avicularium on the upper and outer angle in front. An uncertain number of flexible avicularia, arranged along the middle of the branches, and in much less number than the cells. This genus is at once distinguished from Scrupocellaria, to which it is otherwise closely allied, by the absence of the sessile avicularium on the upper and outer angle in front, and also by the circumstance, that although there ars flexible anterior avicularia, they do not correspond in number with the cells, but seem to be disposed in a special tract along the middle of the branch or internode. The connexion of the branches by transverse tubular fibres is not a character of either generic or specific importance, though it is more striking in the only species hitherto known as belonging to this genus, than in any other. These transverse tubular fibres are, like the radical fibres in Scrupocellaria, always inserted, not into the body of a cell, but into a vibraculum. They are e%ddently of the natnre of a byssus. 1. C. arachnoides, Lamouroux. Cells biserial ; opening oval, truncated above, and the upper margin recedent, with a spine on each side, the •outer the longer surface of cell covered with transparent granulations. 2 B 2 372 APPENDIX. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. h. Internodes composed of two-four cells. 13. Emma, Gray. Dieffenbacli^s New Zealand^ Vol. ii. p. 293. Cliar. (B.) Cells in pairs or triplets. Opening more or less oblique, subtriangular, partially filled up by a granulated calcareous expansion. A sessile avicularium (not always present) on the outer side, below the level of the opening. This genus appears to be a natural one, though very closely alhed to Tricellaria (Fleming) . The more impor- tant points of distinction consist in the conformation of the opening of the cell, and in the position of the avicularium when the latter organ is present. The lower half of what would otherwise be the oval opening of the cell is filled up by a thin plate of calcareous matter, granulated on the surface, and by which the actual opening is rendered more or less subtriangular, the mouth being placed just below the apex of the triangle. The margin of the opening is considerably raised, especially at the oval end, so that the opening appears to be situated in a deep depression. This character of opening, however, occurs also in a triserial species of Cellularia from Algoa Bay. The position of the avicularium entirely below the level of the opening on the outer side of the cell, is the peculiar characteristic of Emma as distinguished from Tricellaria, in which that organ when present is placed on the upper and outer angle as in Cellularia proper, and Scrupocellaria. It is worthy of notice that avicularia may be present on every cell in some specimens, and most usually, whilst in others of equal size there will be none at all apparent. So that the position of these organs in this genus, as well as in Tricellaria, is of more importance systematically than even their existence. APPENDIX. 373 1. E. crystallina, Gray, 1. c. Cells in pairs; three spines on the outer edge, the central usually the longest and strongest. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic upon Polyzoa, &c. circinate branched — branches irregular divaricate. The opening of the cell triangular, very obliquely placed. 2. Emma tricellata, n. sp. Cells in triplets ; three or four long spines on the upper and outer part ; a small spine on the inner and lower part of the edge of the opening. Hab. — Bass Strait. Parasitic upon Catenicella, &c. Habit long straggling, very like the preceding species. The cells are more in- fundibuliform, and the a^dcularium, which, as in E. crys- tallina is not always present, is larger, but occupies the same position on the cell. 2. Polyzoary continuous throughout. Fam. 3. BICELLARIAD^. Frond wholly di\ided into narrow ligulate, dichotomous, bi or multiserial branches ; no vibracula. Avicularia when present pedunculate. 14. BiCELLARiA, Blainville. Char. (B.) Cells turbinate, distant. Opening dii-ected more or less upwards. Mouth submarginal. Several curved spines, marginal or submarginal. 1. B. tuba, n. sp. Opening round, looking nearly directly upwards; a digitiform hollow process below the outer border supporting 2 — 4 long incm-ved spines ; 2 — 3 other long curved sub- marginal spines behind or above the opening, none below it in front — a solitary spine on the back a short way down the cell. Avicularia very long, trumpet-shaped, arising on the back of the cell. 374 APPENDIX. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. This species is at once recognisable by the remarkable form and unusual position of the avicularium^ and also by the peculiar digitiform spiniferous process on the outer side of the opening. 2. B. gracilis, n. sp. Cells elongated^ slender, opening round or suboval, look- ing obliquely forwards and upwards ; tliree marginal (some- times slightly submarginal) spines above and behind the opening, and two much longer curved hair-like spines arising from the anterior and lower edge of the opening. 0\icells globose, subpedunculate, attached to the upper and inner part of the margin of the opening. Avicularia small, hke bird's heads. Hab. — Bass Strait. A deUcate slender species, not unlike B. ciliata or avicularis in habit. The two long spines arising from the anterior edge of the opening suffice to distinguish it from the former of these two species. 3. B. grandis, n. sp. Cells much elongated outwards, horizontal or projecting portion oblong, rounded at the extremity; 2 — 5 long curved submarginal spines, externally a single dorsal spine about half way down the cell; opening oval, narrower outwards ; very obhque mouth at the outer end. Avicu- laria— ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Quite distinct from B. ciliata not only in its size, which is nearly three times as great, but in the form of the cell and the opening. The number of spines varies very much, and two or three of them, not unfrequently, arise from a common projecting process or base. APPENDIX. 375 4. B.flexilis, n. sp. Cells obliquely truncated above with a short spine on the outer angle ; opening large, suboval, with an obtuse angle outwardly ; margin slightly thickened, wholly unarmed. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms^ fine grey mud. Of a light grey colour : grows in large loose tufts, com- posed of long forked ascending branches. It is a very peculiar species, and some difficulty has been found in finding it a place. In the opening of the mouth, and the external short spine, it is a Cellaria ; and in the colour and want of distinct articulation, it approaches Acamarchis ; whilst in the form of the cell, and their mode of mutual connexion, it is a Bicellaria : it differs from all other species of that genus, however, in the absence of any long spines, and in general habit. Were it not referred to that genus, it would probably constitute the type of a distinct one. A curious little trident-like organ is visible in the narrow part of some cells. 15. Acamarchis, Lamouroux. Char. (B.) — Cells elliptical,* closely contiguous ; open- ing very large, margin simple, not tliickened. Avicularia not always present, Hke birds' heads. To which may be added, that the species are frequently coloured, red or bluish. 1. ^. neritina. Lamouroux. Hab. — Bio de Janiero. Broken Bay, N. S. Wales. This species appears to be one of the most generally distributed of the Polyzoa ; it occurs in nearly every lati- tude in both hemispheres. (?) 2. A. tridentata, Krauss. CoraU. d. Sudsee, p. 3. fig. 2. Hab.— Bass Strait (?) * Viewed posteriorly. 376 APPENDIX. This species is placed doubtfully in the Rattlesnake Col- lection. It occurs^ however^ in Van Diemen^s Land and New Zealand (Dr. Hooker) _, and is abundant in South Africa. Fam. 4. CABEREAD^. Polyzoarium entirely divided into ligulate dichotomous bi or multiserial branches ; back nearly covered by large vibracula ; avicularia sessile. 16. Caberea, Lamouroux. Selbia, Gray. op. c. Vol. II. p. 292. Cells bi-multiserial, in the latter case quincuncial. Posterior surface of branches concealed by large \ibracula_, which are placed obliquely in a double row, diverging in an upward direction from the middle line, where the vibracula of either row decussate with those of the other. Avicularia when present of the flexible kind, sessile on the front of the cell. The remarkable featui'e of this genus resides in the vibra- cula, which here appear to attain their utmost develop- ment. Each vibraculum appears to belong not to a single cell as in Scrnpocellariaj but to be common to, or applied to the backs of several. They are more or less pyriform or long oval in shape, and the two rows decussate with each other along the middle of the branch — giving in the narrower species, especially, much the aspect of an ear of barley, and in the wider of a straw plait. The walls of the vibracula are usually thin, and very transparent, so as to allow the outlines of the cells to be seen imperfectly through them. The upper and outer extremity of the \ibraculum. is bifid, and to the inner horn is articulated the seta, and from the notch between the two horns there is continued nearly, if not quite, to the inner extremity of the organ, and along its upper border, a shallow groove, in which is APPENDIX. 377 lodged the seta when in a state of rest. In most species the seta is serrated with distant teeth on one side. Where there are more than two rows of cells, the marginal cells differ in conformation from the central. As in Scrupocellaria, the opening of the cell is sometimes protected by a pedunculate operculum. The genus, there- fore, may, like that, admit of being di^'ided into sections, distinguished respectively by the presence or absence of a pedunculate operculum. a. Operculatse. 1. C. ruclis, n. sp. Multiserial ; opening of cells oval,, margin much thick- ened, with a strong projecting upturned spine on each side in the central cells, and with three strong and long similar spines on the outer side, and a smaller one on the inner side in the marginal cells. Opcrculimi spatulate, or pointed above, entire. Each cell of the central rows "v\dth two small a^dcularia in front, immediately below the mouth. Each marginal cell with a single large ^dbraculum in front below the mouth. Vibracula slender, very trans- parent. Setse short, not serrated. Hab. — Bass Strait. Colour dirty white : forms a broad frondose polyzoarium 1| to 2 inches, or perhaps more, in height. The branches, all disposed in the same plane, are flat, thick, and about Jth of an inch wide, composed of from four to six rows of comparatively small cells, which viewed behind appear lozenge or diamond shaped, and arranged quincunically. It is not always easy to observe with accuracy the outline of the -vibracula, owing to the extreme tenuity of theu* walls, but the groove along the upper border is very dis- tinct and most usually has the seta Ipng in it. The avicularia on the marginal cells are very large, but not uniform in size. Along each border of the branches runs a bundle of radical tubes, the number of which dimi- 378 APPENDIX. nishes as the branch ascends^ each terminating in a vibracnliim. 2. C. zelanica, Busk. Selhia zelanica, Gray. Dieffenbach^s New Zealand, Vol. ii. p. 292. Crista Boryi, Audouin. (Savigny, Egypt, pi. 12, fig. 4.) Biserial; opening of cell oval or elliptical, rounded at each end, crossed in front, and thus di^dded into two nearly equal parts by a transverse calcareous band, from the lower edge of which depends a pedunculate, falciform operculum. Cells frequently produced upwards into a large arcuate ovicell. Vibracula ovoid, setse long, ser- rated. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. Slender : sufficiently distinguished by the pecuHar form of the operculum. This part is so indistinctly represented in Savigny's figures, as to render it impossible to deter- mine with certainty whether his species is the present one or not. The posterior view is much more like, but that is insufficient of itself to afford a specific character. The back of the branches exactly resembles an ear of barley. This species occui^s in New Zealand, and also in South Africa. b. Inoperculatse ; opening of cell without an oper- culum. 3. C, lata, n. sp ? C. dicliotoma?, Lamouroux. Branches 4 — 7 serial ; opening of cells in central rows, oval, sometimes square below; and the cell frequently produced into a shallow arcuate ca^dty. A short blunt spine on each side of the mouth. Marginal cells shallow, opening oval, margin much thickened, granulated : usually a short conical spine at the summit ; a very minute sessile APPENDIX. 379 aviculariiim behind the outer edge^ superiorly. Vibracula very large : setae serrated. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms fine grey mud. Colour white or yellowish; forms close rounded tufts 2|^ to 3 inches in height and width, composed of uniform dichotomously divided branches, about J of an inch wide, and which become ^Wder towards their truncate extre- mities. The ^ibracula are very large, and though dis- tinctly defined, are yet sufficiently transparent to allow a view of the lozenge shaped cells. The central rows of cells vary in number from two to five, and the cells com- posing them are ai'ranged with extreme regularity. The marginal rows are placed in a plane posterior to the central, and as above noticed, the cells of which they are composed are ^ddely different from the central. The only other species with which the present can be confounded is Caberea Hookeri [Cellularia Hookerij Fleming) a British form. The latter species appears to differ from C, Lata, chiefly in its having a large tubular spine on each side of the mouth of the lateral cells, and in each of the central cells, or nearly so, being fui'nished with an anterior avicularium, below the opening and to one side. The lateral sessile avicularium on the marginal cells is also much larger. Fam. 5. FLUSTRAD^. Polyzoarium expanded, continuous or encrusting. Cells disposed in straight series, wliich do not radiate from a centre. 17. Flustra, Linn. a. Cells on one side only. 1. F. pyriformis?, Lamoui'oux. Cells pyriform, or barrel-shaped, prominent, marked with transverse wrinkles. Ovicells lofty, keeled in front, with a strong central, and two lateral longitudinal ribs. 380 APPENDIX. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. Sometimes small and parasitic, upon Sertularians and Polyzoa — sometimes independent, then of large growth, forming dichotomously divided fronds, with strap- shaped truncate, unequal divisions. b. Cells on both sides. {Carhasea, Gray.) 2. F. denticulata, n. sp. Cells much elongated, narrow; sides parallel, ends square ; an upturned spine on each side at the oval end ; sides of cell denticulate, denticles very numerous, small, acute. Avicularia irregularly distributed on the surface of the frond. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Frond divided into numerous strap-shaped, truncated segments, of various widths ; it attains a height of several inches. In habit it is very like some forms of F. iruncata, and there is a Mediterranean species (undescribed ?) in which the cells are denticulate, much in the same way as in the present species, but otherwise quite distinct. 18. Retepora, Lamarck, Char. (B.) — Polyzoarium foliaceous, calcareous, or horny, reticulate; cells only on one side. 1. R. cornea, n. sp. R, amhlgua ? Lamarck. Cells oval, not very regularly arranged, in a continuous, foliaceous, subcircular frond ; reticulated with oval spaces, not as wide as the interspaces. Ovicells large, galeriform, immersed, smooth. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 2/ fathoms, fine grey mud. This remarkable species is so completely a Retepore in construction, that it seems impossible to separate it from that genus, merely from the circumstance that its compo - sition is more horny than calcareous. The frond is more or less orbicular, or rather is composed of more or less APPENDIX. 3R1 orbicular or reniform folds, one over another, and attached as it were to a common centre. The substance is very thin and transparent, and the interspaces are much broader than the elliptical spaces. 2. R. cellulosa. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Not distinguishable from a Mediterranean specimen. 3. R. ctenostoma, n. sp. Frond umbilicate, irregularly infundibuliform, spaces elongated, narrow, margins sub denticulate ; interspaces as wide as the spaces. Mouth of cells tubular, projecting ; with six or seven unequal acute expanding teeth. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A very distinct and beautiful species. The frond is about half an inch wide, and though really umbihcate and sub- infundibuliform, does not at first sight appear so, being much more expanded on one side of the centre than on the other. 19. EscHARA, Rav. 1. E. lichenoides, M. Edwards. Mem. sui' les Eschares. Ann. d. S.N. t. vi. p. 31. pi. 2. fig. 3. Hab. — Australian Sea, probably Bass Strait. (It also occurs in Algoa Bay.) 20. DiACHORis, n. gen. Tab. i. fig. 10 — 12. Cells separate, each connected with six others by short tubes ; disposed in a horizontal plane, and forming a con- tinuous irregular frond ; free, or partially adnate. The mode of arrangement and interconnexion of the cells in this genus is remarkable, and highly interesting. It represents, in fact, a dissected Flustra or Membranipora. The cells are disposed in linear parallel series, and those of two contiguous series are alternate with respect to each 382 APPENDIX. other. Each cell is connected with one at either end in the same linear series by a rather wide short tubular pro- longation, and with two on each side in the contiguous series by narrower tubes, so that each cell, except in the marginal rows, is connected with six others. It is this mode of interconnexion of the cells that affords the diagnos- tic generic character. There is but one species in the present collection, but in Mr. Darwin^s there are two others from the Straits of Magellan, as yet undescribed. 1. D. Crotali, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 10 — 12. Cells erect, open in front, perforated on the sides and bottom ; a lanceolate appendage articulated to each upper angle. O^dcell conical, placed on the upper edge. Hab. — Bass Strait^ 45 fathoms. The frond, though not strictly speaking adnate, as it seems to have no attachments, is usually spread loosely over other polyzoa. There is no appearance of a moveable mandible in the lanceolate appendages, but which, never- theless, most probably represent avicularia. These organs are of a lanceolate form, with an elevated ridge or keel along the back, and slightly concave beneath. They pro- ject in front, shghtly depending ; and at the base of each is a rounded eminence. Fam. 6. CELLEPORID^. Polyzoarium massive or crustaceous, composed of ovate cells in juxta-position ; and arranged, more or less regu- larly, in linear series, radiating fi'om a central point or line. 21. Cellepora, Otho Fabricius. 1 . Cellepora hilahiata, n. sp. ? C lahiata ?, L amour oux. Cells deeply immersed ; mouths in some entire and un- armed; in others, with two acuminated conical lips; APPENDIX. 383 immediately beneath the apex of the posterior lip a small sessile avicularium. Oxdcells subglobular, with a scutiform area on the upper surface, marked with several lines on each side, radiating from a central line. Hab. — Bass Strait. Parasitic on several zoophytes. This species to the naked eye exactly resembles C. pumicosa, but on closer examination several important differences will be observ- able. The cells in C. bilabiata are less rounded and less distinct than in C pumicosa. As in that species, some of the cells are furnished with an a\icularium, and others un- provided with that appendage ; and again, some cells sup- port an o^dcell, whilst others do not. The mouth of the unarmed cells in both species is more or less circular and plain, but in C. bilabiata, even in the unarmed cells, the mouth is occasionally distinctly bilabiate. In C. pumicosa the avicularium is placed subapically on a solitary posterior obtuse mucro, but in C. bilabiata there are two such pro- cesses longer and more pointed, one in front and the other behind the mouth; the avicularium, as in the former case, being placed immediately below the apex of the pos- terior mucro. The ovicells also differ very much. In C. pumicosa tliis organ presents several rather large cii'cular spots or perforations?, whilst in C. bilabiata it exhibits a scutiform or horse shoe-shaped area, marked with several transverse lines on each side of a middle longitudinal line. Earn. 7. GEMELLARIADiE. Cells opposite, in paii's. 22. DiDYMiA, n. gen. Tab i. fig. 6. Cells joined side by side; opening large, oval; mouth subapical, central. No a\icidarium. 0\icells contained within a cell, which is central at each bifurcation. 384 APPENDIX. 1. Didymia simplex, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 6. Cells obloiig, narrowed below, broad and truncate, with an angle externally above. Back marked with transverse rugae. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A fine species, growing in loosely-branched phytoid fronds, to a height of several inches. In some (dried) specimens the branches area little incurved, but not in all. The situation of the ovicell is peculiar. It is contained within the upper part of a cell placed between, or rather in front of the paii', from which the two branches at a bifur- cation take their origin. The ovigerous cell diff'ers widely in form from the others, being pyriform, and much attenuated below; and the orifice is below the middle. The upper compartment, in which the o^dcell or sac itself is lodged, appears to be separated from the lower by a transverse diaphragm, 23. DiMETOPiA, n. gen. Tab. i. fig. 7 — 9. Cells joined back to back; the mouths of each alternate pair looking in the same direction, and at right angles to the intermediate pair. 1. D. spicata, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 9. CeUs infundibuliform. Margin of opening much thick- ened, with six equidistant, elongated pointed spines. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. White, transparent, forming thick tufts about li to 2 inches in height. The same species also occurs in New Zealand. 2. D. cornuta, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 7^ 8. Cells suddenly contracted about the middle. Opening oval, wide above ; margins slightly thickened with a short thick conical horn on each side above, and a long projecting spine (rarely two) in front below. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Branches narrower than in the preceding species. Colour APPENDIX. 385 yellowish. Tufts loose ; oviceli small in proportion to the size of the cells. It is placed immediately above and behind the upper margin of the opening of tlie cell to which it belongs. Suborder III. CTENOSOMATA. Fam. 1. VESICULATMAD^E. Cells tubular, horny. 24. Amathia, Lamouroux. 1. A. hiseriata, Krauss. Corall. der Siidsee, p. 23. Fig. 1. a. b. c, Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait. The biserial arrangement of the cells is not a sufficient character, because in Amathia cornuta (Lamom'oux), the cells are also biserial as well as in another South African species, very like the Australian form probably intended by Krauss, but apparently different from it. In the South African form the cells are shorter, narrower, and more cylin- drical, and the branches are terminated by two lanceolate tags, which are not present in the Australian species, in which latter the cells also are wider, longer, and prismatic, or subhexagonal, with very thin walls. nr SEHTULARIAN ZOOPHYTES. The number of species of Sertularian Zoophytes com prised in this collection amounts to thirty-one, belongin to five genera, all of which appear to be common to both the Northern and Southern • hemispheres ; and fom- are European types. The fifth, Pasythea, is stated by La- mouroux, to be found on Fucus natans and in the West VOL. I. 2 c 386 APPENDIX. Indies ; so that the present collection does not present any peculiar Australian generic form. It is far otherwise, how- ever, with respect to the species. Of these three only are found in the European seas, viz. : Sertularia opercidata. Campanularia dumosa. „ voliibilis ? Of which the first is a perfect cosmopolite, and the last is perhaps doubtful. There are also, what is much more strange, not more than three species which I have been enabled to trace to any other locality, even in the Southern hemisphere. These are : — Sertularia elongata. ,j divaricata, n. sp. Plumularia Macgillivrai, n. sp. The first occuiTing in New Zealand ; the second on the south coast of Patagonia and in the Straits of Magellan ; and the third (which, however, is not, strictly speaking, an Australian form, having been procui^ed in the Louisiade Archipelago) in the Philippine Islands. A¥ith these six exceptions, the w^hole number of species would therefore, to a certain extent, appear to be characteristic of the Austrahan seas. Of the thirty-one species, it appears strange that not less than twenty-five should here be described as new; and there can be no doubt many so described are included under the vague and uncertain descriptions of Lamarck and Lamou- roux ; but, in the absence of authentic specimens, or trustworthy figures, I have found it impossible to identify satisfactorily the species described by them, and have therefore thought it better to assign new names rather than to apply former ones, which would in all probabiHty prove incorrect. It is hoped, at all events, that the descriptions here given will be found sufficient to prevent APPENDIX. 387 any misconception of what is intended in the following catalogue. The mode in which the species are arranged will be seen from the following synoptical arrangement : — Synoptical A rrangement of the Genera and Species of Sertiilarian Zoophytes collected on the Voyage of the Ruttlesnake. Order. ANTHOZOA HYDROIDA, Sub-order. Sertularina. Fam. I. Sertulariad^. Gen. 1. Sertularia. § 1. Cells alternate (Sertularia.) (a) Cells distichous. 1. S. elongata, 2. >S. divaricata, n. sp, 3. S. crisioides. {b) Cells secund. 4. S. pristis. § 2. Cells opposite (Dynamena) (a) Cells distichous. 5. S, siihcarinata, n. sp, 6. S. patula, n. sp. 7. «S. ortliogonia, n. sp. 8. S. mutulata, n. sp. 9. S. operculata. 10. S. diver gens, n. sp. 11. 8. trigonostoma, n. sp, 12. ^. digitalis, n. sp. 13. S. loculosa, n. sp. 14. S. unguiculata, n. sp. 15. 6'. tridentata, n. sp. 2. Pasythea. 16. P. hexodon, n. sp. 2 c 2 388 APPENDIX. 3. Pliunularia. § 1. Angiocarpese. 17. P. Huxleyi, n. sp. 18. P. hianSy n. sp. 19. P. delicatulcij n. sp. 20. P. auritay n. sp. 21. P. hrevirostris^ n. sp. 22. P. rmnosa, n. sp. 23. P. divaricata, n. sp. 24. P. phceniceaj n. sp. 25. P. longicornis, n. sp. 26. P. MacgillivTayi, n. sp. § 2. Gymnocarpese. 27. P. effusa, n. sp. 28. P. campanula, n. sp. Fam. 2. Campanulariad^. 4. Campanularia. 29. C voluUUs (?) 30. C dumosa. 5. Laomedea. 31. X. Jbrrmi, n. sp. Order. ANTHOZOA HYDROIDA. Suborder. Sertularina. Fam. I. SERTULATIIADJE. Gen. 1. Sertularia, LinncBus. 1. Cells alternate (Sertnlaria.) a. Cells disticlious. 1. «S. elongata, Lamouroux. Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait, thrown on tbe beacb. Port Dalrymple, on stones at low water. (Also New Zealand.) 2. S. divaricata, n. sp. Cells urceolate-snbtubular, or very little contracted towards the month, often adnate to the rachis nearly their whole length; mouth looking upwards, with three large APPENDIX. 389 acute teeth, two lateral, and one rather longer than the others, and slightly recurved, above. Ovicells — ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Colour dirty yellowish white ; polypidom branched, from a common stem ; branches irregular, (?) straggling, pinnate and bipinnate, pinnae and pinnules divaricate at right angles, alternate ; rachis flexuose, or with an angle at the origin of each pinna. The cells are placed at mde distances apart; small and adnate very nearly to the top. The mouth circular, with three large teeth, the one above frequently obscured by adventitious substances, very acute, ascending, and a little recurved. — Sertul. Gayi. (Lamou- roux. Exp. p. 12. pi. 6Q. fig. 89 has four teeth.) This species occurs also on the south coast of Patagonia, and the Straits of Magellan ; in the latter locality, how- ever, the habit is much more robust. 3. S. crisioides^ Lamouroux. (Dynamena.) Cells adnate, conical, slightly curved, truncate at bottom, narrow at top ; mouth vertical, external. Hab. — Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms. Very Hke a Thuiaria, but the cells are not immersed, though very closely adnate, and the outer angle of the square base of each cell is in contact with the upper and back part of the one below it, so that a small triangular space or opening is left below each cell. The branches are very regularly alternate ; and the polypidom is of a light brownish colour. h. Cells secund. 4. S. pristis, (B.) Idia pristis, Lamouroux. Cells tubular, all contiguous or adnate to each other, and to the rachis, upper half cm'ved laterally, lower half closely adnate, almost immersed in the rachis ; mouth look- ing upwards, rounded, expanded, almost infundibidiform, border slightly scalloped towards the rachis, and projecting externally. Ovicell cyathiform, long narrow with cii'ctilar 390 APPENDIX. rugse. Moutli as large as the diameter of the cup, margin very slightly everted. Hab. — Prince of AVaies Channel, ToiTes Sti'ait_, 9 fathoms. Off Cumberland Islands, in 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. I see no reason why the present species shonld not come under Sertularia. It is peculiar from the position and extreme contigiiity of the alternate cells. The ovicells arise from the back of the rachis towards the side, "VATien ■\dewed posteriorly, the cells are seen through the trans- parent rachis, and it might thus at first sight appear as if the rachis itself were cellular and not tubular, but such is not the case. The tube is wide and continuous from end to end. 2. Cells opposite — (sometimes alternate on the stem.) (Dynamena.) a. Cells distichous, 5. S. suhcarinata, n. sp. Cells tubular, upper half divergent, ascending. Mouth looking upwards, circular, with an anterior and t^^o lateral broad, expanding teeth. A narrow angular bne or keel down the front of the cell. O^icell — ? Hab. — Bass Sti'ait, 45 fathoms dead shells. Colour white, transparent, growth small, straggling. Branches iiTcgular, divaricate nearly at right angles, sub- alternate. The three expanding teeth and the anterior ridge or keel, besides its habit, distinguish it from a Tas- manian species with which alone can it be confounded. The cells are large. 6. S. j)atula, n. sp. Cells tubular, upper third free, divergent ascending. Mouth perfectly round, looking upwards and outwards, margin entire everted. O^dcell — ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Colour whitish. A small parasitic species, with opposite branches. 7. S. orthogoula^ n. sp. APPENDIX. 391 Cells tubular, nearly half free, divergent laterally at a right angle. Mouth looking directly outwards, border entire, slightly everted. Ovicell— ? Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, para- sitic upon S. pristis. Very like the preceding in habit and size, of which it may possibly prove to be a variety. The cells, however, throughout the whole of the polypidom are of precisely the same character, in each form, and exhibit no interme- diate steps. In the present species the cells are much longer, rather narrower, and the upper half is turned out abruptly at a right angle, whilst in the former they ascend at an angle of 45<', and the free portion is much shorter. The branches in both are opposite ; the ovicells are unfor- tunately absent in each. 8. S. mutidata, n. sp. Cells compressed or flattened, from side to side ; some- times angular, lower half adnate, upper half divergent, projecting like a bracket. Mouth looking directly upwards, narrow oblong, quadrangular. Ovicells acideate, with strong widely set spines, pyriform depressed. Hab. — Prince of Wales Cliannel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour light olive grey. Polypidom about three inches high,iiTegularly? branched, branches not oi^posite. Thecells are distichous, and of a very peculiar form, but varying in some degree according to their situation. The younger (?) cells on the secondary branches are flat on the inferior or outer aspect, with two angles on each side, or are qua- drangidar ; whilst the cells on the stems or older or fertile branches are usually rounded below, or on the outer side, and thus have only one angle on each side. The mouth varies in shape according to the cell ; in the former case being a regular long rectangle, whilst in the latter it is rounded on the outer side. The o^-icells are placed in a 4J 92 APPENDIX. single series on one side of tlie racliis_, as in S. digitaUsj but are widely different in form. 9. S. operciilata, Linn. Hab. — Swan Island^ Banks Strait. This species occurs in all parts of the world. It is to be carefully distingidshed from S. bispinosa, Gray, — also an Australian and New Zealand species, but which does not occur in the present collection. b. Cells (on the branches) secmid, contiguous. 10. S. divergens, Lamouroux. Cells ui'ceolate, much contracted towards the mouth ; upper half free, divergent, projecting laterally almost horizontally; mouth small elliptical, with the long axis looking directly outwards; two lateral teeth. 0\icell smooth, rounded, ovoid ; oral margin not elevated. Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait. Colour light yellowish : parasitic upon a fucus. Height from \ to \ inch; simply pinnate, branches distant^ regularly alternate. The stem is divided into internodes, from each of which arises a single branch. The cells on the stem are alternate. b. Cells secund. 11. S. trigonostoma, n. sp. Cells ovoid, gibbous, much contracted towards the mouth. Very small portion free, projecting forwards and outwards. Mouth looking outwards and forwards, trian- gular, with a short blunt tooth on the external angle. Ovicell— ? Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour very light yellowish. Polypidom simj^ly pinnate, about two inches high : longest pinnae about half an inch. Cells small adnate, projecting suddenly at top, and much contracted at the mouth. The mouth is of a triangular form, the longest side of the triangle being below. The cells are placed in pairs, but one is always a little higher APPENDIX. 393 than the other (subalternate) , and one pair is placed on each internode on the pinnae. The stem is also indistinctly divided into internodes, from each of which a single pinna is given off alternately on opposite sides, and besides the pinnse there are three cells on each internode, two on the side from which the pinna springs, and on the oppo- site side alternate in position to the other two. 12. S. digitalis^ n. sp. Cells digitiform, slightly curved to the front, month circular, looking directly upwards. Margin entire, ex- panded. O^dcells long-ovoid, mmicate, spines numerous crowded, mouth prolonged, tubular. Hab. — Prince of AVales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour dark grey, almost black. Stem two to three inches high, rising either from a strong main tiiudv (?) or from a mass of intertmned radical tubes. Stems or branches pinnate : pinnae or branches alternate, straight, divaricate. The cells forming a pair, are, on the branches, adnate to each other throughout their whole length. But on the stem the cells are distichous and wide apart. The ovicells are peculiar in their long flask-like form, and tubular mouth. They are placed all on one side of the rachis, generally in single file, but sometimes in pairs. 13. S. loculosa, n. sp. D. distans?, Lamoiu'oux. Cells completely adnate to each other, each apparently divided into two compartments by a transverse constric- tion. Upper half turned horizontally outwards. JNIouth roundish, irregular, contracted : looking outwai'ds, and a little downwards. O^dcell — ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour deep brown ; polypidom simple mibranched (?) about half an inch high, parasitic upon a broad leaved fucus. The cells are so closely conjoined as to form but one triangular body, which appears as if divided into five 394 APPENDIX. loculaments by transverse constriction. The upper ap- parent constriction however seems merely to indicate the line of flexiu-e of the upper part of the cell upon the lower. The form of the conjoined cells is not unlike Lamouroux's figiu"e of S. {D.) distans ; but the present is clearly not that species. 14. S. unguicalata, n. sp. Cells urceolate_, upper half free^ projecting in fronts and much contracted towards the mouth ; elliptical^ with the long axis horizontal, looking forwards and a little out- wards ; two long lateral teeth^ the outer the longer and usually incurved. OviceU ovoid ; mouth wide^ with a much elevated^ thickened border. Hab.— Swan Island_, Banks Strait^ thro^vn on the beach. Colour bright brown ; polypidom pinnate ; the stems arising from creeping radical tubes, very thickly intertwined around a long slender body. The stems are from one to four inches long, the pinnas about \ — | inch^, alternate. The rachis of the stem is divided into distinct internodes, from each of which are given off two pinnae, and upon which are also placed usually six cells, three on either side. The pinnae are also di\idedj but less distinctly, into inter- nodes of various lengths. The pairs of cells on the pinncB are all secimd, and in contact with each other at their bases, though widely divergent above. 14. S. tridentata, n. sp. Cells urceolate, ventricose below, contracted towards the mouth. Mouth looking forwards and outwards, cir- cular, with tkree acute teeth, two lateral, longer than the third, which is above. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour yellowish white. Polypidom simply pinnate, about 2-i- inches high ; pinnae in the middle | of an inch. The cells are ventricose below, and almost flask-shaped. APPENDIX. 39 ;> The two lateral teeth are long, acute, and shghtly everted ; the upper third tooth is sharp, but not near as long as the others ; the border of the mouth is as it were excavated below, so that the mouth is as nearly as possible vertical. Contrary to what is the case in S. dweryens, but exactly as is represented in Savigny's figures of the so-called S. disticha (Egypt, pi. 14. fig. 2, 3.); and S. distans (Egypt, pi. 14. fig. 1, 3.) the lateral teeth are sloped or bevelled off fi'om below upwards, and not from above downwards, as in S, dwergens (Mihi.) <» 2. Pasythea, Lamoroux. Cells in distinct sets^ at some distance apart. 1 . P. hexodon, n. sp. Cells in sets of six, — three on each side ; a single axillary cell in each dichotomous division of the polypidom. Ovicell pedunculate ovoid, adnate to the rachis, with a lateral opening. Hab. — Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. As this differs in the number of cells in each set, as well as in the form of the cells, and in the form and position of the ovicell, it appears irreconcHeable with Lamouroux's P. quadridentata. According to the figure given of the latter the ovicell is not adnate, and is spirally grooved. 3. Plumularia, Lamarck. a. Angiocarpese — ovicells enclosed in siliquose, costate receptacles. 1. P. IIuxleyi,n. sp. Plumidaria — Huxley, Philos. Trans. Pai't XL, 1849, p. 427. pi. 39. figs. 43 and 45. Cells cup- shaped, shallow ; mouth nearly vertical, sub- quadi'angular, margin subcrenate, plicate ; with a small acute central denticle in front, and a wide shallow notch behind. Rostrum twice as long as the cell, arising from 396 APPENDIX. the racliis by a broad ventricose base^ adnate the whole length of the cell, narrow upwards and slightly expanded again at the summit; lateral processes very short and wide, canalicular adnate. Costse of ovarian receptacle numerous,, each with a single branch near the bottom, and beset with small cup-hke processes, and not connected by a membrane. Hab. — Port Curtis. Off Cumberland Islands, in 2? fathoms fine grey mud. Colour yellowish white. Polypidom about 6 inches high, rising with a single fiexuose stem, which is naked at bottom, and afterwards gives off alternate branches, bifa- riously disposed at each angular fluxure. Branches simple, 2 — 3 inches long ; pinnules about ^ inch. The construction of the ovarian receptacle in the present section of the genus Plumularia is well exemplified in this species, owing to the comparative simplicity of the elements of which it is composed. 2. P. liians^ n. sp. Cell cup-shaped, deep, cylindrical ; mouth nearly vertical; margin with three teeth on each side, the middle one the longest, acute, much expanded, the other more rounded ; a wide notch posteriorly. Rostrum, arising from the rachis, as long as the cell, slender, tubular, adnate ; lateral processes very small, ovarian receptacles — ? Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour bright brown, rachis shining, very dark brown ; polypidom about six inches high, simply pinnulate, pin- nules about half an inch ; thickly and regularly disposed, alternate. 3. P. delicatula, n. sp. Cell cup-shaped, rounded, mouth at an angle of 45o; margin dentate, with tAAO lateral teeth of equal size and a central one in front longer, all acute ; entire posteriorly. APPENDIX. 397 Rostrum a little longer than the cell, scarcely connected with the rachis^ slender^ and closely adprcssed and adnate to the cell below, wide and projecting upwards ; lateral processes large, rising above the margin of the cell, coni- cal, tubular, or canalicular. Hab. — Prince of "Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour of rachis and pinnules, deUcate yellowish white above; of rachis, light brown, inferiorly; poh-pidom about two inches high, rising in several straight simply pinnulated fronds from a common centre ; pinnules ascend- ing about } inch. 4. P. aiirita, n. sp. Cells cup-shaped, tapering at bottom, constricted just below the top ; mouth at an angle of 45°, cii'cular ; margin subcrenate, plicate, with three folds on each side, with a wide shallow notch in front and entire behind. Rostrum, slender, attenuated below, adnate up to the cell, summit contracted, tubular; lateral processes very long, expanding, rising far above the margin of the cell, conical, tubular. Hab. — Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. Colour bright brown ; poh^^idom 2 — 3 inches liigh, con- sisting of straight pinnate fr'onds, pinnse or branches not opposite, nor regularly alternate, divaricate at right-angles. 5. P. hrevirostriSj n. sp. Cell sub-tubular, cmwed; mouth expanded with two equal acute teeth on each side, and a longer narrow and slightly incurved, central one in front. Rostrum small, conical, projecting, about half the length of the cell; lateral processes small, recm-ved at an angle, canalicular. Hab. — Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. Colom- dirty white. In habit, and to the naked eye, very much like the last; its growth, however, appears to be longer and less regular. The difference in the cell is very great. 398 APPENDIX. 6. p. ramosaj n. sp. Cells cup-sliaped, deep, rounded at bottom; margin elevated on tlie sides_, expanding, witli font* teetli on each, side, tlie first and second in front mucli expanded, acnte, incurved at tlie point; a long slender incui'ved central tooth in front ; margin entire beliind. Rostrum not con- tinued to tlie rachis, adnate tlie whole length of the cell, wide and projecting, narrowed to the point, which is tubular, opening oblique, longer than the cell; lateral processes conical, short, tubular, closely adnate. Costse of ovarian receptacle with short opposite tubular branches ; not connected by a membrane. Hab. — Swan Island, Banks Strait^ thi'own on the beach. Colour greyish brown ; polj'pidom 4 — 5 inches high, much branched, branches irregular, divaricate, rising in great numbers almost immediately from the mass of radical fibres. A. beautiful species, and the ovarian recep- tacles very interesting. 7. P. divaricata, n. sp. Cells cup-shaped, long, shghtly contracted at bottom ; mouth circular ; margin sub-expanded, dentate, with three nearly equal upright teeth on each side, and a long, round pointed central tooth in front. Rostrum narrow at bottom, closely adnate, scarcely rising higher than the central tooth ; lateral processes small, closely adnate. Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour dark brown, almost black when dry. In habit it is extremely like the preceding species, from which, however, it is quite distinct. The polypidom is five to six inches high, perhaps more; stem slender, branches long, divaricate at right angles, not opposite. 8. P. phoenicea, n. sp. Cells cup-shaped, rounded, bent over in front, so that APPENDIX. 399 the mouth is nearly vertical ; margin with two folds, subcrenate, and with a broad, but pointed lateral lobe ; entire posteriorly. Rostrum, arising solely from the cell, small, upper half free, projecting, tubular; lateral pro- cesses long, cylindrical, or tapering, free, projecting. Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour bright buff, many of the branches having a piebald aspect, or mottled with dark pm-ple patches ; when wetted these portions present a beautiful crimsom colour. Polypi- dom five to six inches high, rising with a strong, tapering, longitudinally grooved stem, which is sometimes sparingly branched, but more commonly simple. Stem and branches pinnate or bi-pinnate, the pinnae and pinnules alternate. The latter are about J inch in length. 9. P. longicornis, n. sp. Cells urceolate, deep, upper half curved abruptly upon the lower, so that the mouth is vertical ; margin subplicate, subcrenate, rising on each side into a broad angular lobe, entire behind, and quite fi'ee fi'om the rachis. Rostrum, rising entirely from the cell, with a broad base, suddenly contracting into a long slender tube, which projects in front a long way from the cell ; lateral processes very long, fr'ce, tubular, projecting suddenly forwards and a little upwards and outwards. Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour pale buff. Polypidom five to six inches high, consisting of a strong straight, tapering stem, sometimes with a single ascending branch given off near the bottom ; stem and branches pinnate; pinnai li to 1^ inches long; alternate, and arranged ^^ith the utmost rcgulaiity, of uniform length, till near the summit, wlicn they shorten rapidly, so as to give the pol\T)idom a rounded truncate end. The pinnules are excessively fine and delicate, not 400 APPENDIX. more than ^ to ^^ inch long, and very closely set, so that the whole poh^idom has the most exact resemblance to a beautiful silky quill feather. 10. P. Macgillivrayi, n. sp. Cells campanulate, deep, rounded at bottom; margin subphcate, entire. Rostrum large, rising from the cell, adnate the whole length of, and as long as, the cell ; the upper thu'd constitutes a cup distinct from the lower por- tion ; lateral processes adnate, wide, short, curved upwards, canalicular or tubular. Costss of ovarian receptacle con- nected by a membranous expansion. Hab. — Louisiade Archipelago, reefs at low water. Colour bright brownish buff. Polypidom six to seven inches high, consisting of a strong central stem, giving off opposite branches, at regular intervals, and bifariously disposed. Pinnules about J inch long, closely set. h. GjTnnocarpese — o^dcels naked. 11. P. effusa, n. sp. Cells urceolate ; deeply emarginate posteriorly, entu'e in front, ventricose below ; a small pedunculate infandibuli- form process attached in front to the projecting portion of the rachis on a level with upper border of the cell. Ovicell— ? Hab. — Prince of Wales^ Channel, Torres Strait. Colour buff. Habit very peculiar. The poh^^idom rises to a height of seven or eight inches, with a long slender waving, but upright stem, which is naked inferiorly, and above gives off numerous straight or waving branches, again sub -dividing into other shorter straight ramules, about an inch long. The branches and branchlets are both pinnulated ; the pinnules are not more than ^ to ^ inches long, extremely delicate and minute, so as in the dry state to be scarcely visible. The transition from the former section of the genus Plumularia to the present, is APPENDIX. 401 well shewn, through P. 3IacgiliwnujL and the present species. 12. P. cnmpanula, n. sp. Cells campanulate, border entu'e; lateral and anterior appendages canalicular. Branches alternate. Ovicells — ? Hab. — Bass Strait, 45 fathoms dead shells. There appear to be two varieties of this species, or that different portions of the same polypidom may assmne very different characters. The larger and probably more com- mon form, is at first sight extremely like P. Catharina, but it will soon be noticed that the branches are alter- nate instead of opposite. The shape of the cells and their average size is precisely the same as in that species. The lateral and anterior appendages differ in form very con- siderably. In P. Catharina these organs are longer, more slender, infundibuliform, whilst in P. campanula they ai'e shorter and thicker and the terminal cup is open on one side or canalicular. The ovicells might perhaps afford a more striking characteristic, but they are unfor- tunately w^anting in all the specimens of P. campanula. The second vai-iety is much slenderer, unbranched, the cells and their appendages smaller but of the same form, and the cells usually contain a mass of opaque black matter. This species is parasitic, and appears to attain a height of several inches. FAM. IV.— CA:\IPANULARIAD.E. 4. Campanularia, Lamarck. 1. C. volubiUs? Ellis. Hab. — Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait. As one or two ovicells, parasitic upon Sertularia pristis, are the only evidences of this species that have come under observation, some doubt as to identity of the species witli the Eritisli form mav be entertained. 4' 2. C. fh/mosa, Pallas. VOL. I. 2d 402 APPENDIX. Hab. — Bass Strait. Parasitic upon Sertularice. Rather more slender than the usual British form/ but otherwise identical, 5. Laomedea^ Lamouroux. 1. Laomedea Torresii, n. sp. Cells campanulate_, nearly sessile upon an incrassated collar projecting from the stem. Margin of mouth not thickened_, with four shallow excavations. Hab, — Prince of Wales Channel^ Torres Strait. Of a light brown colour, two or three inches high. At first sight it is very like Laomedea antipathes, Lamouroux_, Avhich occurs in New Zealand, but differs materially in its smaller size and in the four shallow emarginations of the mouth, which part in L antipathes is entire and with the margin a little thickened. Note. — Circumstances having prevented the insertion here of descriptions of new species of Lunulites (Tab. I. fig. 13 — 16)^ and a fevp other Zoophytes of the " Voyage of the Rattlesnake" — examined by Mr. Busk subsequently to the preceding paper having been placed in the printer's hands — I may mention that the descriptions in question will shortly be published elsewhere. — J. ISI'G. END or VOL. I, G. NORMAN, PRINTER, IMAlDIiN LANt, (.OVtNT GAUDliN. % 'iilHIitHltilltiUMittl: litljlt i ijiilji hi! !-i! Ililii- itiiiibit^titttittkiiiiiUliiiiiitiiiititilttltHi ti^kiilitiiuiii^iaiaiiH! i