NARRATIVE

OF A

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

PERFORMED IN

HER MAJESTY'S SHIP SULPHUR,

DURING THE YEARS 1836-1842.

INCLUDING DETAILS OF THE

NAVAL OPERATIONS IN CHINA,

FROM DEC. 1840, TO NOV. 1841.

Pufeltsj^eD unlicr t\)t ^utl^otitg of t\)t 2ort>g ®omm($«(ionctS
of t\)e ^limiraltg.

BY

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, R.N.

C.B., F.R.A.S., &C.

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. XL

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1843.

^^t.^
^^^v

<>

LONnON :

C;. .1 r.M..MEIl, rUlNTEK, SAVOY S,TREET, SIKANU.

CONTENTS

OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Anchor in Matavai Bay— Shift to Papeete—" Jim," the pilot —
Chiefs Itoti and Paofai — Visit queen Pomare — Her husband
— Legal discussions — King-consort impeached — Reconciliation
— Native dances — Cruelty of king — Quit Tahiti— Noon-tide
disproved — Touch at Huaheine — ^Visit Raratonga — ^Ir. Buza-
cott, the missionary — The chiefs — Market regulations — Dis-
eases— Quit Raratonga .... Page 1

CHAPTER IL

Visit theFeejees — Ship strikes — Rudder damaged — Reach anchor-
age— Visit of Missionary — Starling despatched to Tibooka —
jMeasures adopted with the natives — Town of Rewa — Fight-
ing bourri canoes — Phillips and chief of Rewa — Kindness
of Commodore Wilkes — Rivers of Am-ba-ou — Implements
of war — Captured chief — Mode of dressing hair — Leekee worn
by women — Discussion relative to missionaries and their
adoption of the Christian Religion — Invasion of Banga — Canni-
balism— Garingaria — Reach Port Resolution — Unpleasant
position of missionaries from Navigators — Natives troublesome
— xlwkward predicament — Habits and dress of natives— Quit
Tanna ...... 35

IV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

Quit Port Resolution — Tanna — Pass Erromango — Arrive off
Island of Guadalcanar — Dangers of Guadalcanar — Proceed to
Port Carteret — New Ireland — Examine Port Gower and Turtle
Bay — Visited by natives — Quit Port Carteret — Pass Duke of
York's Island — Visited by canoes — Articles brought for
traffic — Mother and Daughter — Proceed towards New
Guinea — Sighting Elizabeth Islaiad and Admiralty Group —
Pass the Britannia Islands, discovered in 1795 — Land, and
survey Port Victoria — Visit of natives — Thermal springs —
Quit Port Victoria, and examine coast of Guinea — Structure of
canoes — Pass " Los Crespos" — Anchor off Arimoa — Visited by
natives — Habitations — Floating islands — Reach island of
Jobie — Description of it — Quit Jobie— Pass Goelvink's Bay —
Fix position of Middleburg and Amsterdam — Land at Pigeon
Island — Dampier Strait — Pass Ceram — Anchor in Cajeli Bay
— Bouro — Quit, and reach Amboina . . 67

CHAPTER IV.

Amboina — Flattering reception by the governor — The rajahs —
Visit a cavern — Mode of travelling — Grotesque attendants —
Society — Fishing trammels— Chinese town — Garrison — Capa-
bihties and government of the island — Return to Bouro —
Cajeh Bay examined — Passage to Celebes, Macassar— Fort—
Situation of the Dutch — Solombo — Pulo Kumpal — Singapore
— Receive orders to proceed to China — Prosperous state of
Singapore — Palawan passage — Starling struck by lightning
— JNIanila — Transports with invalids — Indisposition of the au-
thorities towards them — Join the squadron at Chuenpee 107

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Naval force in the Canton river — The forts of Chuenpee and Ty-
cocktow attacked — Destruction of the war-junks — Preparations
for forcing the Bocca Tigris — A barber surgeon made prisoner
— Turned to account — Operations suspended — The captured
forts givenup — Squadron descendsthe river — Take possession of
Hong-kong — Hostihties resumed — Return to the Bocca Tigris
— A battery constructed on South "Wangtong — The forts of the
Bocca Tigris cannonaded and stormed — CrueUies of the Sepoys
— Ascend the river — Aifair of the First Bar Fort — The Cam-
bridge burnt — Unmask a battery — A man killed — Take pos-
session of " Howqua's Folly" — Chinese charges for a gun —
Operations in the river, and before Canton — Another truce
and its remarkable terms — The Commodore goes to Calcutta.

139

CHAPTER VI.

Examine the chamiels of the river — A fresh rupture — Treacherous
edict — Many boats and junks destroyed — Reconnoitre for
landing troops — Preparations for the advance on Canton —
Storm the heights— Camp deserted — Casualties — Truce — Me-
morial— Chinese view of affairs — Memorial of Yishan to the
Emperor — Reception of the terms of truce — Death of Major
Beecher — Approach of the Chinese — The ransom paid — Pre-
mature death of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse — Commodore Sir J.
Gordon Bremer returns — Typhoon — The Plenipotentiaries in
the hands of the Chinese — Procure freedom by ransom 1/3

CHAPTER VII.

Arrival of Admiral Sir W. Parker and Sir H. Pottinger— Distri-
bution of the force — The Chinese re-fortify the Canton river —
Sulphur detained at Macao — Arms clandestinely supplied to
the Chinese — Madagascar steam-vessel wrecked — Feelings to-

VI CONTENTS.

wards the English — Various boats in use — Quit the China
waters — Return to Singapore — Climate — Geology — INIalacea
— Pinnag — Acheen — Malays — Conduct of the Sultan — Obser-
vations ...... 227

CHAPTER VIII.

Ceylon Point de Galle — Climate — Sail again — Numerous ma-
rine animals — Natural history — Anchor at Port Victoria, Se-
chelles — Partiality of the seamen for cocoa-nuts — State of
Victoria — Black population — Description of the Sechelles from
their almanack — Mahe — Monsoons — Cession of the islands to
Eno-land — Terms of capitulation — Political and commercial
importance — Woods — Quit the Sechelles — Majambo Bay,
Madagascar — Appearance of the coast — Natural history — Ab-
sence of natives — Sail for the Cape of Good Hope — St. Helena

Ascension — Cape Blanco — Arrival in England — Liberality

of the Admiralty — Paid off— Conclusion . .263

APPENDIX.

Nicaragua . . . . . • 303

Convention with the Empei'or of Russia . . 308

Marquesas . . . . . .313

Kuikahi ...... 323

The Regions of Vegetation, being an Analysis of the Distribution
of Vegetable Forms over the surface of the Globe in connexion
with Climate and Physical Agents, by Richard Brinsley
Hinds, Esq. . . . . .325

ILLUSTRATIONS

TO THE SECOND VOLUME.

ENGRAVINGS.

Attack on the War-Junks, at Chuenpee Creek Frontispiece.

Thoka-nauta (or Phillips) and Garingaria, Brothers of Chief

Rewa, Feejee Group .... Page 46

80
82
92
103
123
125
155
158
161

Natives of Port Victoria, Britannia Group, New Guinea
Native of New Guinea ....
Bow of a State Canoe, Island of Jobie, New Guinea
Prahu of Geby .....
Native of Celebes ....

Native "Women of Celebes
Attack on First Bar Battery, Canton River
Chinese Soldiers, with Gingals
Chinese Soldiers at Great Guns

VIGNETTES.

State Canoe
Rewa Canoe
Native of Bugis
Prahus of Macassar
Hand of Barber-surgeon
Chinese Trading-junk
Salt-junk
Fast-Boat .
Tea-Boat

19
43
124
126
145
236
237
238
239

CHAPTER I.

Anchor in Matavai Bay — Shift to Papeete — " Jim " the pilot —
Chiefs Itoti and Paofai— Visit queen Pomare— Her husband
— Legal discussions— King-consort impeached — Reconciliation
—Native dances— Cruelty of king— Quit Tahiti— Noon-tide
disproved— Touch at Huaheine— Visit Raratonga— Mr. Buza-
cott the missionary— The chiefs— Market regulations — Dis-
eases— Quit Raratonga.

VOL. II.

VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,

CHAPTER I.

Having so lately quitted the American continent,
and particularly Nuhuhiva, the scenery of Tahiti did
not so much interest us, as the assistance we looked
for in refitting, added to the rest and amusement
after our late fatigues.

I landed on Point Venus, perhaps with feelings
totally incomprehensible to any on board. Fourteen
years before, on the very spot where Cook was en-
camped, I had bivouacked for several days. I was
then a lieutenant, now a captain ; and I looked for-
ward to my labours, which were there to be resumed,
with an anxiety only to be experienced by those
charged with similar duties. The question as to
the increase of the Dolphin shoal since 1826 was my
hobby. Next came the determination by actual
experiment of the tidal question; Kotzebue and

B 2

4 ANCHOR AT PAPEETE. [1840.

Beecliey having asserted a noon high water. Magnetic
data were looked to with anxiety ; and I was now
to enter the field where so many talented men had
preceded me. Furnished with well-tested instru-
ments, perseverance alone was required. In addition
to these considerations, I expected to meet with those
who had befriended me in 1826, and I hoped pos-
sibly to be of service to their country.

Having obtained the necessary data for securing
the meridian distance, we moved, on the morning of
the 5th, through Toanoa channel to Papeete.

This channel in the Blossom's day was deemed
impassable, but is now the common entrance, the
French frigate, I'Artemise, having entered by it.

On entering the reefs, the boats of thirteen Ame-
rican whale ships came to our assistance, and, aided
by a light air, we were taken through in good style
by our pilot " Jim," of notoriety in Beechey's work.
As a native pilot, he deserves great credit, and
acquits himself with far more coolness and decision
than many Europeans. At twenty minutes j)ast
eight we dropped anchor in Papeete Bay, followed
shortly by the Starling.

Before entering the narrows, the chiefs, Paofai,
Itoti, and the husband of the queen's mother, paid
me a visit. I was much surprised at their loss of
caste. In former times they were the essence of
propriety ; now they were reduced to compete with
the other natives for the wasliing of linen, even in
their fancy uniforms.

1840.] VISIT THE QUEEN. 5

The consul, Mr. Pritchard, immediately paid me
a visit, and we proceeded together, about noon, to
visit queen Pomare, then residing at her country
establishment, at Papawa. She has been married
within the last six years to a young chief at Hua-
heine, by whom she has two sons who are living, the
eldest about three years old.

I expected, as an old acquaintance, to have met
with a cordial reception, but I subsequently learned
that she had been so much harassed by threats of ven-
geance from various nations, tliat she hardly knew
whether I had not come to make some new demand
for satisfaction. However, this soon wore away
upon the explanation of Mr. Pritchard, and she
readily assented to my making use of the small
island, Motu-utu, to land our stores, &c. during the
operations of caulking and replacing some copper.
Her apprehensions removed, she immediately moved
down to her new house at Papeete. Her husband,
of whom, however, she is very fond, is a great scamp,
and is causing much trouble in the island.

Owing to the caulking and other disagreeables
on board, I took up my abode at the house of the
queen's aunt, where I erected my observatory, and
superintended the building of a new boat. Unfortu-
nately, there were several whalers in port, refitting,
and it was not until the sixth day after our arrival
that we could obtain any aid from artificers, our own
being nearly useless or sick. Those who eventually
came, performed about half as much as we were
accustomed to in civilized countries.

6 LEGAL DISCUSSIONS. [1840.

Representation having been made to me that
there were several cases where British subjects had
opposed the verdict of Tahitan juries, and the queen
and chiefs having solicited my advice thereon,
a public meeting of the chiefs was convened.

Upon the questions which were brought for-
ward for my consideration, I had only direct an-
swers to give, confirming the sentences in accord-
ance with their laws, and expressing my surprise
that they should have hesitated in carrying them
vigorously into execution, when they had the as-
surance of the British consul that his government
would not countenance any opposition to them.
Some discussion, however, threatened to arise, in con-
sequence of their putting " Jiome questions,'"' which
bore severely on the conduct of foreigners present.
But these I avoided, by answering as for British
subjects only, or the British consul, — promising any
private advice they might wish at a future occasion.

Upon one decision against a British subject, viz.,
that of a young man who had forcibly retained
the wife of a native, I was applied to by the de-
fendant for redress, inasmuch as he had acted under
the authority of the queen's husband, who had given
the woman a paper desiring her to go and live with
this young man, and say " that he told her to do
so." As this was a manifest usurpation of authority,
and the parties had thus been led into error and fined
for it, I enclosed the documents to the queen and
chiefs, requiring them to look into the matter, and

1840.] KING-CONSORT IMPEACHED. 7

adding that as they had talked so much about
their laws being disregarded by foreigners, it was
incumbent on them to see that they were not brought
into contempt, by being tampered with by one of
their own body.

The affair was taken up with spirit. The queen
(although not without a struggle) gave up her hus-
band to the law, and issued a summons to the seven
supreme judges. When they had assembled, the
young king-consort refused to appear, and after much
noise and excitement, the conference was put off until
it could be more solemnly conducted, by summoning
all the chiefs of Eimeo, as well as those of Tahiti.

Upon their assembling, the king again refused to
appear, backed by the lowest order of foreigners
living on the beach, who were interested in setting
the laws at defiance. At length the queen, to prove
her^ sincerity, and that she would not screen him,
requested that the judges would adjourn to the
palace, and try him there. This was accordingly
done.

On my passage thither, I had an opportunity of
witnessing some of the manoeuvres which were at-
tempted in order to foil the trial. Indeed, some
of the braggadocios talked largely of going in a body
to protest against the proceedings. They were the
beach rabble before alluded to. They had not the
courage to apjjear, and the judges proceeded to
select a jury. They were about to proceed to trial ;
the king having submitted, and appeared. As I per-

8 RECONCILIATION. [1840.

ceived this would afford a good opportunity for the
judges to give him a lecture, which opportunity
might be lost after the trial, I expressed myself
(as far as I was concerned) " satisfied that he had
at length seen his error, and submitted to the laws
of his country, and that I merely wished the judges
to point out to him, in the presence of the queen,
chiefs, and people, his total inability to interfere
with the government : that he was merely the queen's
husband, and by the laws of the island was not even
entitled to the authority of a chief

This had an almost electric effect. Taatee and
Utamme, the two oldest chiefs, immediately stepped
forth, and in the most energetic language, told him
his faults, and finally exhorted him to stay more at
home, and look to the interests of the queen and
their children.

The several chiefs who had secretly opposed me,
and supported the ultras, now stepped forth, and
were lavish of " soft sawder." In fact, the tables
were entirely turned.

To conclude the matter, I immediately offered
the king and queen my hand, and invited them,
together with Taatee and Utamme, to dinner on
board, where they enjoyed themselves rationally and
happily, and were entertained by fireworks from
the island. Much to the chagrin of the disaffected,
they were for this night entirely cut off from their
society and machinations.

Having put upon paper answers to several ques-

1840.] HULA-HULA. 9

tions, relating to the proper course to be pursued
against turbulent foreigners, and pointed out how
far they would be listened to by foreign powers
when complaining of their subjects, I left them
in peace and harmony, and moved the ship to Point
Venus, in order to complete our magnetic observa-
tions.

Shortly after our arrival the king joined us, and
seemed determined to separate himself from his
former acquaintance. In the evening, a hula-hula,
or native dance, was performed before us, by fifty
young men and boys, dressed a la militaire, in blue,
with white trimmings. The day following the queen
arrived, and a similar exhibition of ladies and gentle-
men took place, the former all in white, with very
neat straw bonnets.

Both parties went through the performance of the
hida-hula with great spirit ; but the dresses w^ere
rather inconvenient to both sexes. One young lady,
with shoes and white stockings, finding them incon-
venient, first threw away the shoes, and shortly after
the stockings followed.

The hula-hula of the present day is entirely free
from objection. It is merely a display of extraor-
dinary activity, the acme of which is an instantaneous
and simultaneous stop when at the highest pitch of ex-
ertion. It is what might be termed a romping dance.

After all this gaiety, I was much surprised, on the
day following, by a visit from the consul, who, to my
astonishment, informed me that he was the bearer of

10 CRUELTY OF QUEEN's HUSBAND. [1840.

a message from the queen, intreating my stay until
the May meeting, (on the Wednesday following,) as
the king, in a fit of intoxication, had treated the
queen in a most brutal manner, in the high road ;
having attempted to kill her with a stone. Being
foiled by her female retinue, and two young men
who were passing, he had seized her by her hair, and
had it not been for those about, doubtless would have
destroyed her. The queen fled to the house of a
cooper, where she was concealed. It appears that
he had fallen from his horse in a fit of intoxication,
and she had rushed to his assistance with all the
warmth of affection, which was thus repaid. On
his return to the house, he destroyed all her presents
of dresses, bonnets, ornaments, &c., and attempted to
fire the house. It was the professed intention of the
queen " to move for a divorce, and that he be re-
turned to Huaheine."

The consul immediately took the queen under his
protection, and having requested my interference, I
assured her that four days' delay was important to
me, but if she would assure me of her determination
to rid herself of such a dangerous and detestable
character, and immediately summon the judges, I
would not only wait, but also convey him to his
island (Huaheine.)

To my utter astonishment, the consul informed
me the day following, that she had forgiven him, and
returned, thanking me in the warmest terms for my
attention.

1840.] FORGIVING DISPOSITION OF POMARE. 11

Poor woman ! I am afraid this is but a beginning
of such scenes. Two most unprincipled chiefs,
Hetoti and Poafai, are well known to bear her mor-
tal hatred, and if they can excite the husband to do
their will, she will probably fall, and he will then
inevitably become their victim.

Pomare is now growing old for a Tahitan, being-
above twenty-eight, and very corpulent. She ap-
pears to be very fond of her children, and to feel
much for her unprincipled husband, although for
months they scarcely speak. Her forgiveness on
this late occasion speaks volumes for her kindness
of heart. She is at times, however, violent and
passionate, as I have noticed in her arguments with
the consul. She does not possess one single trace of
the pretty little girl I recollect as Aimatta in 1 826.

I had frequent opportunities of seeing her in the
midst of her retinue at Papeete, as she occasionally
stopped to take tea at my quarters. One division were
admitted to table; the second division sitting in
the verandah. On these occasions her manners were
very pleasing, and care appeared to be banished. I
endeavoured to entice the husband to join us, but
without success.

With respect to the present condition of the
Tahitans, it is my decided opinion, that with the
introduction of dress, the peculiar religious feeling
which I noticed in 1826 has vanished. They were
then simple in the extreme ; they are now compara-
tively civilized. The introduction of foreigners has

\2 QUIT MATAVAI. [1840.

broken down the legal barrier which restrained them.
I much regretted that I could not be present at
their May meeting. It is similar to our parliament,
and our presence might have assisted in the intro-
duction of laws for the comfort of the well-disposed.
I had no object in view; but the chiefs of all parties,
as well as the missionaries, wished my presence.

On the evening of the 8th, we quitted Matavai
Bay, and shaped our course for Huaheine, in the hope
of finding an anchor said to have been left there.

The course of tidal experiments at Papeete, as well
as Point Venus, negative the noon high- water.

Dolphin shoal has not increased since 1826, nor
had it at that date altered from the account given by
Wallis or Cook. On the other hand, two coral
patches, discovered by me in the Blossom's visit,
have decreased, and are now hardly to be found. The
new channel into Papeete exhibits a clearing away
of coralline obstructions, and the formation of a deep
channel. The Blossom could barely enter Toanoa ;
now, a line of battle ship can enter easily. The spot
where the consul's house then stood is no more :
vessels may ride there. Surely here is no evidence
of the astonishing activity of lithophytes.

Hardly had we cleared Point Venus, when, for the
first time during our visit, it rained heavily, and did
not clear up until after midnight, when we cleared
the island of Eimeo. Shortly before sunset on the
day following we rounded the point of Huaheine, and
would probably have anchored had the wind favoured

1840.] VISIT HUAHEINE. 13

our entry. However, as we were taken aback at the
entrance, I decided on going in my boat to view the
anchor, and ascertain if it was worth delay.

Having given a passage to Mr. Barff, jun., (the
missionary at Pajjeete,) to visit his father, the resident
missionary at Huaheine, I took him with me, to
show where the anchor lay. One glance was suffi-
cient ; it was entirely useless. I therefore proceeded
on with him to his father's, where an hour or two
flew away rapidly, in the presence of the fairest dis-
play of beauty we had seen in these seas. Having par-
taken of tea, and the hospitalities and attentions of
this worthy family, and discussed the budget of Ta-
hitan intelligence, I took leave of this interesting
group, (nine children, ranging from ten to twenty,)
and by moonlight soon regained my ship, and bore
away for Raratonga.

The natural beauties of the island we saw little of,
although, from the luxuriance of the trees noticed
near the beach, and the peculiar formation of the
island, I have little doubt that it would have repaid
our delay. By the description of Mr. Barff, it con-
tains an interior pool, with two passages, one of
which is navigable — apparently an old crater. It
is, in fact, a double island. It is considered one of
the most interesting islands in the Society Group.
The mountain scenery is more picturesque, the soil
on the lowland more fertile, the population better
disposed and better featured, and more easily ruled.
The island itself affords more scojie for investiga-

14 ISLAND OF MAUKI. [1840.

tion, by sea as well as by land, and it is very probable
that in the course of time its excellent harbour may
rise into importance. This island was a great
favourite with Cook. Had it been six hundred miles
west of Tahiti it certainly would have attracted my
attention ; but time was of too much importance to
wait here, every hour in chronometric measurements
being of importance.

Just after noon on the 13th, (having the night
previous experienced a most extraordinary head sea?
with the wind hauling to the S.E.) we observed the
island of Mauki, through the rain clouds which hung
upon the horizon, exactly on the bearing which, by
our common reckoning, we had anticipated. In
Arrowsmith's chart, the island is termed Parry's
Island, as laid down by Lord Byron, 1825, as well as
Miuta. The whole of the Harvey Group were
however, well known before 1825, as will be seen
by the work of the late Mr. Williams, who claims also
the discovery of Raratonga, but which is designated
on the chart as Orurute, "discovered by Captain
Henry." However, it is well known by the native
account, that they had long before been visited fre-
quently by whalers, and Captain Henry did not
touch at it until after Mr. Williams resided there.

The island of Mauki is about two miles in diame-
ter, well wooded, and inhabited, but the soil does not
appear in any part to exceed forty feet above the sea
evel. It is situated in latitude 20° T S., and lon-
gitude 157° ir W.

1840.] RARATONGA. 15

About four p. M., we lost sight of Mauki, and,
favoured by a strong breeze from S.E., made the
island of Raratonga at eight on the following morn-
ing. Heavy rain clouds frequently obscured the
island, so that its lofty and picturesque peaks were
shut out from us until we had neared within three
miles. Three American whalers were cruising off,
waiting for supplies ; but nothing was at anchor, to
guide us to the landing. Following up one of the
whale-boats, we tacked close in to the reefs, and went
on shore in my gig about ten : the showers fortunately
admitting of our saving the forenoon sights between
them, as well as the latitude at noon.

Having letters to Mr. Buzacott, the principal
missionary, he soon made his appearance, and con-
ducted us to his house, which for neatness and com-
fort surpasses anything we have met amongst the
missionaries. The roads, enclosures, church, school,
and private residences, are an age in advance of Tahiti.
Neatness and regularity prevail, and the appearance
of the resident chief, as well as of those about him,
reflects the highest credit on the present missionary,
as well as the unfortunate originator of the present
system, the late Mr. Williams, who was recently
murdered at Mallicolo. It reminds me of what I
expected of Tahiti if their laws had been enforced.

The residence of Mr. Buzacott is situated about
one eighth of a mile from the sea, and about half that
distance from the main road ; which is perfectly
level, and of the ordinary width of those in England,

16 RESULTS OF GOOD GOVERNMENT. [1840-

the walls of tlie enclosures in the town (constructed
of coral and mortar) confining it. The road to his
house leads through the churchyard, when an arti-
ficial raised road on coral blocks, carries you through
a cocoa-nut vista by a gentle rise to the house,
which is reached by a flight of steps composed of
block coral, about twenty feet ascent, the house
occujDying a level terrace cut away from a rather
steep hill.

With all the difficulties incident to missionary
progress, one is not a little surprised to meet, not
only with the conveniences, but also the comforts, of
a well-furnished house. These are principally na-
tive, but the result of missionary instructions ; care
having been taken to teach them useful arts. They
manufacture tables, chairs, and sofas, with cane
bottoms, fit for any of the middling classes in Eng-
land. These form an article of export to Tahiti, and a
pair of their arm-chairs grace my cabin. The wood
of the Tamanu, from which they are manufactured,
may vie with Honduras mahogany in beauty, and is
far superior in durability.

Four very neat stone cottages were just comjDleted,
having two good rooms each ; these are intended for
the students in the college about to be built where
Mr. Buzacott's house now stands. In the present
school-room, where they have also a printing press,
I was shown the production of one of the native
scholars, being a manuscri^st copy of the New Tes-
tament, in progress, the writing clear and intelligible.

1840.] THE CHIEF MAKEA. 17

the scholar a native missionary, probably to be for-
warded to some island where Christianity is unknown.

The church is an extensive wood and plaster
building, capable of accommodating about one thou-
sand persons ; it occupies one side of the road, and
the native school the opposite.

The house of the principal chief, Makea, (or per-
haps more properly the king,) is well built, of
two stories, and fit for any European. It was built
by the father of the present chief, whose likeness is
given in Mr. Williams's work. He has also a very
neat little cottage within the same inclosure, where
he probably lived during the lifetime of his father.
Between the two stands very conspicuously the
tomb of old Makea, very neatly kept and white-
washed.

A covered building, or extensive shed, near the
landing-place, is used as a market-place. There I
found the chief tidily dressed in European costume, —
cotton shirt, white trousers, and white frock coat, —
superintending the purchases for the captains of the
whalers. All this results from a change from abso-
lute barbarism and heathenism since 1825.

About sunset all were in motion towards the
church, the women mostly in native tapas, with
straw bonnets ; but there was no unseemly noises or
behaviour, as at Tahiti. The chief himself, although
engaged in conversation with me at the time, fol-
lowed the stream.

It is pleasing to witness the influence Mr. Buza-

VOL. II. c

18 WHOLESOME REGULATIONS. [1840.

cott has acquired ; not the servile fear of the Sand-
wich Islanders, but an honest, warm-hearted attach-
ment. He is a pattern for missionaries. Such men
by their labours improve all around them. They
prove their superiority by their ability to instruct
others, and they leave behind them lasting monu-
ments of their utility, in the increased civilization and
happiness of the people.

From constant association in their labours they
acquire a desire to progress, and I have little doubt
that this island will hereafter produce valuable re-
sults on many others. They have now three mis-
sionary stations, but I fear they have not three
Buzacotts. This excellent person's history is told by
Mr. Williams, in his account of this island.

It is to be hoped that this island may be spared
the introduction of foreign settlers as at Tahiti and
Oahu ; for when that commences, adieu to peace
and prosperity ! I used my best efforts to alarm the
chief, as well as Mr. Buzacott, in order to induce
them to watch this point jealously; and I trust
with effect. A very judicious code of port regula-
tions is printed, and a copy furnished to every
vessel on arrival ; non-compliance excludes commu-
nication. Deserters find no refuge. Spirits are
prohibited ; and order at night is insured by pre-
venting any foreigner remaining on shore after dark.

The produce of the island is similar to that of
Tahiti ; but poultry, particularly large turkeys, ve-
getables, &c., are finer and cheaper, and are readily

1840.] RAVAGES OF THE MANTIS. 19

obtained by application to the chief, who controls
the market and prevents any undue demands. The
mountains, constantly fed by the clouds, afford nu-
merous streams ; one enters the sea at the landing-
place, which, although apparently open to the sea, and
edged by reefs on either hand, seldom throws in a
ripple to hurt a boat, excepting in the bad season
or S.W. monsoon, when the breeze blows in.

The island is infested by myriads of the mantis,
which completely strip the cocoa-nut trees of their
leaves, and eventually destroy the tree. The tamanu
attains a great size ; one tree I noticed near Mr.
Buzacott's house, divided into two stems, but the
bulk at the root would give the entire twelve feet

diameter. Their state canoes are made from this
tree, and are very beautifully carved. At the island

c 2

20 PECULIAR DISEASE. [1840.

of Mangea, belonging to this group, they are famed
for their carving, particularly in fancy axe-handles,
resembling in some degree the Roman fasces ;
several of which, as well as mats and tapas of native
workmanship, and other curiosities, were obtained
here.

By perseverance between the showers, we suc-
ceeded in obtaining our suite of observations, by
which we find that this island is placed on the charts
about fifteen miles too far west, and two south, of
its actual position.

As the shij) could not find any safe anchorage, and
Vavao had been selected as a rating position, delay
was out of the question ; therefore, taking leave of
our kind friends, about four p. M. on the 15th, we
took our departure with much regret.

The natives are generally well-built, but of a
coarser habit than our Tahitan fiiends. It ap-
pears that in addition to the immense mortality
which occurred in the time of Mr. Williams, a new
nondescript disease has of late years presented itself
amongst them, and is entirely confined to the native
population. On its early presentation, the first
symptoms, merely swelling of the glands of the
throat, were considered certain monitors of speedy
death, attended with great torture ; but latterly it has
yielded to treatment. It is thus described by Mr.
Hinds, our surgeon, who examined a case said to
present a complete type of the disorder.

" The accession is accompanied by the usual

1840.] ITS CHARACTER. 21

symptoms of fever, — rigors, followed by heat, dryness
of skin, and some headache. This either entirely
disappears, or assumes an intermitting form, but in
both is followed by an affection of the glands of the
neck, groin, or axilla, and sometimes by tumours in
the small of the back. An enlargement commences,
due to chronic inflammation, which gradually in-
creases, until the tumour attains a large size, im-
peding the functions of the neighbouring parts.
In the case I witnessed, the glans of the neck were
affected on the right side, and an abscess had burst,
leaving a large but supei-ficial ulcer, discharging a
thin serous matter. On the opposite side large
abscesses were in progress, and the back of the
neck was also occupied by another in a less forward
state. The patient previously had been a strong
healthy man, but the disease had deprived him of all
energy, and his limbs were much emaciated. Al-
though the disease did not extend much inwards, he
experienced difficulty in speaking, swallowing, or
respiring. The progress is slow, but generally fatal.
The termination is perhaps assisted by the patient's
giving himself up immediately, and neglecting to
pursue the remedies prescribed. The missionaries
have used the liquor arsenicalis internally, and oint-
ment of hydriodate of potass externally, with par-
tial success. They also regard it as contagious, but
this is a character which cannot be admitted except
after strong proof Hitherto no white people have
been attacked, nor have I heard of its appearance
elsewhere."

22 CAUSES OF DISEASE. [1840.

The swellings are immense ; at first sight appear-
ing like huge wens. In a case which I witnessed
the left cheek was continued nearly to the shoulder
and back of the neck ; and this was in a youth who
apparently gave himself little concern about it.
This would go far to disj^el the impression of con-
tagion, as few would submit to his company, and
yet he was always foremost amongst those who
pressed round us. I took especial care, however,
that he did not come in contact with any of our
establishment.

I have before adverted to the customary charge
of a certain set of missionaries, and more particu-
larly those of the Sandwich Islands, that the de-
crease of population is to be ascribed to the inter-
course with foreigners. In this island at least we
have certain proof that in both visitations, (which
have nearly depopulated this island,) foreign inter-
course cannot be the cause ; and I feel well assured
that in the majority of cases, diseases which have
baffled the scanty knowledge of pharmacy which
the reporters possessed, were conveniently ascribed
to suit the hypothesis they were bent on main-
taining.

The question naturally arises — Do you speak from
personal knowledge? Possibly not to the extent
necessary to settle the point. But I do know, that
on our visit in 1826 to Pitcairn's Island, we had the
opportunity of learning from those who spoke pure
English, " that they would suffer severely from our

1840.] LAGOON REEF. 23

visit;" that the change from vegetable to animal
diet, when visited by strangers, never failed to en-
tail sickness. (Vide Beechej, vol. i. page 94, 95.)
This has been noticed by Captain Beechey, but I
followed it out at Tahiti, as well as at the Sandwich
Islands, and my own opinion is, that the attempt at
premature change of habits, as well as clothing, will
account for many varieties of disease.

It is evident that many diseases rage in positions
where Europeans never set foot, and it is highly
probable, that, like the two cases now before us,
they originated amongst themselves. I heard at
Tahiti of a pig affecting numbers. Was the pig-
diseased ? And if so, how came it so ? Had a
party existed as intent on tracing the true sources of
disease, as others are in croaking about what they are
utterly ignorant of, probably a very diiferent tale
would be told. But if the fact be^ as urged by these
upholders of American and European contamination,
(at the Sandwich Islands,) why do they not exert
themselves to erect a hospital, by which means the
remedy might be offered ? Have any of them moved
such a question? Do they ever visit the sick or
attempt the cure of body and soul, or in any way
assuage their miseries ?

On the 18th, baffling winds and rain caused me to
haul to the southward for the night, intending to
search for an island and shoal laid down by Arrow-
smith. Fortunately very strict orders were issued to
the officers in charge of watches, and at four a. m..

24 VAVAO. [1840.

whilst estimating- the probable distance on the chart,
" breakers under the lee " were reported. We were
at this time fifteen miles to the eastward of their
assigned position. We tacked immediately, sig-
nalled to warn the Starling, and at daylight sepa-
rated to examine both sides, and continue a parallel
course due west one hundred miles, in order to deter-
mine if any second danger existed.

By our survey, it appears that this reef occupies
an outline similar to that of a coral island, having
an entrance to the N.W. All the mass of shoal
water appeared to be contracted at its S.W. ex-
tremity, but no rocks above water could be traced.
The S.W. extremity was determined to be in lati-
tude 20° 2' N., longitude 167° 49' W. ; which differs
from that assigned to the shoal seen by Captain
Nicholson. We termed it Lagoon Reef.

Our course was then shaped for Vavao, the
largest northern island of the Hapae group, but by
some navigators they are included in the Tonga
group.

At daylight on the 21st, we reached within ten
miles of its northern point. The appearance of this
cluster presented a complete archipelago, with many
dangerous reefs off the southern extreme. We
fully expected to reach our anchorage before nine,
but after rounding the northern extremity, where
by the chart we expected to find " Port Refuge,"
we continued to run down its western side until the
openings seen from the eastward again presented

1840.] PORT REFUGE. 25

themselves. Through these openings, only, could we
expect to find the port. Indeed, I had almost
fancied that we had made a wrong landfall, and in
order to secure the meridian distance, I immedi-
ately landed on the nearest accessible station, and
succeeded in saving latitude and time; the ship
working to windward during the interval.

A pilot, left by her Majesty's ship Cruizer, soon
visited the ship, and having rejoined her myself,
about five miles to windward, we continued to beat
through a labyrinth of islands, about six miles to
the N.N.E., until sunset, when we dropped our
anchor in the inne7' harbour, — the first ship or vessel
of war that had anchored there.

The title of Port Refuge it certainly deserves
when this anchorage is obtained. Few square
rigged vessels, however, would reach our position.
It is very difficult of access, and it is necessary after
entering the islands to turn five miles to windward
against a lee set, before an anchor can conveniently
be let go, and this requires daylight. To a disabled
or crippled vessel seeking refuge, this name is de-
ceitful : she never could reach it.

I merely allude at present to the outer anchorage,
for nothing but small fore and aft vessels will at-
tempt the inner harbour.

The resident missionary, Mr. Thomas, accompa-
nied by the master of the American whale-ship
Triton, immediately called, and afforded us all the
information which might interest. From Mr.

26 TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES. [1840.

Thomas we learned " that owing to internal wars
in the Tonga group, arising from the rebellion of
the heathen population, in opposition to Chris-
tianity, the king (George) and chiefs had gone to
assist the latter." The produce of this beautiful
island has been nearly destroyed by the violent
hurricanes, which of late years have been frequent.

Upon the subject of this " religious war,'' in
Tonga — (or better perhaps known as Tonga-taboo)
and in which Mr. Thomas appears to take a strong
interest, I am much inclined to believe that its
origin proceeds from a harshness in making Chris-
tians, instead of inducing them to become so by
persuasion. The punishments for offences against
a forced religion, by a people not long converted,
are dealt too unmercifully — are indeed so severe,
that we were informed some of the women died
under them, and that they were only induced, by the
interference of one of our ships of war, to adopt milder
measures.

It was openly asserted that th^ee and a half inch
rope has been used to inflict punishment on
women !

These remarks lead me back to an observation in
the Hawaiian spectator ; " Remarks on the discourse
by the late Rev. W. Orme, foreign lecturer of the
London Missionary Society ;" asserting that he drew
a portrait of the South Sea Mission, for which there
is no original in the Pacific.

The Sandwich Island missionaries never will see

1840.] ALTERED TIMES. 27

such where they are residing; and the English
mission at Tahiti had well nigh met entire dis-
comfiture, by bordering on their absurdities.
Savages are not to be broken in like wild horses.
They are not to be compelled to feel that the reli-
gion imposed on them by the fiat of the king, is
to be akin to abject slavery. Where are they to
look for that peace and contentment so often
preached? Is it reasonable to expect, that the
millions inhabiting the islands in these seas can,
from a state of the most unlimited enjoyment, be
brought by law to believe that the Christian reli-
gion is to ameliorate their condition, when the very
habits and countenances of their would-be pastors
are almost distorted hy severity f

But I remember, in our visit to Tahiti in 1826,
that the natives, by clioice, hy free good will, made the
sabbath such as I have never witnessed in the civilized
Sandwich Islands. I have seen them with cheerful
faces flock to church in their best. I could not
purchase provision on that day. I witnessed less
crime amongst them than in other countries ; and
on my doubting the word of a chief, he very de-
liberately asked me whether " I did not believe
that a God above saw him, and if it could be to his
interest to tell a falsehood ?" The attachment also
of the natives to their pastors was strikingly evinced
on many occasions, and I confidently believed, from
having lived constantly amongst them, and away
from the neigbourhood of the ship, that prodigies had

28 MISSION AT VAVAO. [1840.

been effected amongst that nation. But I suspect
that the harshness which ensued caused them
to revolt, and by that measure broke a link in the
chain which it will be no easy matter to unite. I
understand, however, that at the districts distant
from the port of Papeete much regularity still pre-
vails.

This is one British mission. Reports from Hua-
heine, and what I myself witnessed, of the benig-
nant features of Mr. Barff, lead us to believe that
happiness and content reign there.

The success of the late Mr. Williams, who was
beloved at Raratonga, is shown by his narrative. I
must add, ivova. personal observation, that I was most
agreeably surprised at finding the condition of the
people under their esteemed friend and pastor, Mr.
Buzacott, (with a good, honest, hearty John Bull
countenance, to court instead of terrify,) far exceed
my expectations, and I certainly think that Mr.
Orme's picture must have been furnished from
thence.

At Vavao, however, the missionary creed, I un-
derstand, changes, consequently the system may be
more rigorous. All I can state is, that the ap-
proach of the missionary to my tent was not hailed
with anything like satifaction by the natives, and
that I lost many articles of curiosity, from parties
being afraid to approach without his approbation.

In the morning our tents were pitched in the
face of the hill on which the town is situated, and

1840.] TRAFFIC. 29

we succeeded in obtaining most of our magnetic
observations. Rain set in, preventing our obtaining
the requisite astronomical observations until the
daj following.

We were soon surrounded by natives anxious to
dispose of their wares, but the absence of the chiefs,
and principal people, caused a very apparent dejec-
tion. Vegetables, fruit, cloth, (tapa,) mats, shells,
and weapons, were brought for barter, but their
prices, since the days of Cook, have materially in-
creased ; cotton, cloth, and knives, were the only
trading articles.

Money they knew by name, but hardly under-
stood its value; as they frequently demanded a
dollar in lieu of a knife worth fourpence, and were
generally content with a real, (sixpence,) in lieu.
The term dollar (or tarra) is here, as at Tahiti,
intended to imply coin, and the immediate offer of
the real, one eighth its value, was frequently taken
with avidity.

The manners of the natives appeared to be seve-
ral shades superior to those of any of the islands
we had visited, evidently resulting from a more
determined character, and a reflective turn; pro-
bably much assisted by their stricter adherence to
Christianity, which at this particular moment of
religious warfare, they feel it necessary to maintain
with closer observance. At dawn and dark the
voice of prayer and singing may be heard from each
house throughout the settlement, and on Sunday

30 CAPTIVE CHIEF. [1840.

the full chorus of natives afforded a very fair speci-
men of their singing.

The church is spacious, and tastefully ornamented
with native mats on the rafters, much resembling
printed calico. The interior of most of the mis-
sionary and other houses, here as well as at the other
islands in these seas, generally have the rafters, ten
or fifteen feet upwards from the eaves, decorated
in this manner.

We saw but little of their workmanship, owing
to the absence of the canoes, chiefs, and warriors.
The few articles obtained were inferior, excepting
their household wares, consisting of mats, pillows,
&c., which are very simple. The frequent visits
of whale-ships have also drained the market.

A state prisoner, " the heathen Mng^' as well as his
family from one of the islands, was in our immediate
neighbourhood. T visited them, and gave them various
presents. They were much dejected, and apparently
very grateful for the notice bestowed on them. A
very pretty little girl, either a daughter or relative,
about six or seven years old, seemed to have much
influence with the natives, and interested herself
very much in bartering for us, and preventing undue
demands. I presented her with various trifles, par-
ticularly beads, which were useless in the market.
On the day of our departure, she brought a number
more of her own age, and literally commanded by
her manner, that they should be similarly treated.
As she was a princess, there could be no denial !

1840.] GEOLOGY. 31

It is very strange, that although we have generally
noticed beautiful children, we have seldom, if at all,
seen a striking grown up beauty.

When I took leave of this unfortunate family,
several little presents were secretly sent to me
through the pilot. That from the king was a piece
of kava root, wrapped very carefully in tapa ;
doubtless, a most splendid gift in his estimation, but
if it had been detected in his possession, I was told
that he would be severely punished.

We had no opportunity of examining the coun-
try, our arrival being on Saturday, and our depar-
ture the evening following. The trees here do not
attain the size of those in higher islands, but from
their being thinner, they attain a much closer tex-
ture. The Tamanu, although it does not attain a
large size, is much superior in grain and beauty, to
that of Tahiti or Raratonga.

The highest range of land, all of which might
easily be converted into one great garden, does not
at any point exceed three hundred feet. The
surface is very level, and the soil fine.

The composition of the rock is a very close-grained
limestone, containing large caverns, in which crystal-
lized carbonate of lime, stalactites, &c., abound. In-
deed, wherever the cliff is fractured a complete crystal-
line structure is presented, in which shells, coral, &c.
are frequent. At the outer position, where I ob-
tained observations, I found many specimens of
imbedded fossil nautilus. None of the nacreous

32 PRODUCTIONS. [1840.

substance remained, but was replaced by crystallized
carbonate of lime. The hardness of the rock, added
to its broad flat surface, prevented me from obtain-
ing more than a single specimen.

At the sea level the water has worn away the
outlines so much, that all the cliffs overhang the
islands, presenting a mushroom form. The caving
runs about ten to fifteen feet horizontally, by five or
six vertically ; consequently, where the sea has much
play, and the coast is exposed, landing is imprac-
ticable. In some cases the overhanging mass has
fallen away, and landing is facilitated ; but the depths
alongside these islands increase suddenly to forty
fathoms or more.

The supplies to be obtained at this island chiefly
consist of yams, which were said to be the finest
in these seas. The hurricanes have injured or de-
stroyed the greater part of the fruit-trees, otherwise
shaddocks and cocoa-nuts would be plentiful. I
noticed but one indiflerent shaddock, a few pines,
cabbages, onions, and yams. But our arrival was
hardly known in time, and Saturday is so completely
devoted to cooking for the next day, that little was
produced.

Here again we met with the iron hand of the
missionaries, for they rule the king, chiefs, and people.
The system throughout these islands, of prohibiting
even the necessary ablutions on the sabbath, is a
stretch of feeling far beyond good sense. A cer-
tain hour might be established by law, at which
necessary labours should cease.

1840.] ISLAND OF LATTE. 33

Fish is either scarce, or other occupations
prevent the people from seeking it. The great
depth of water also around these islands is another
drawback. Were it not for this cause, this groupe
would afford some of the finest harbours in the
world. But, excepting the inner harbour, I should
not consider my ship pleasantly berthed, the depths
decreasing suddenly from ten, sixteen and twenty-five
to forty-five fathoms. Our stay was too short to
admit of any survey being made.

At three on the 23rd of May, we took our depar-
ture fromVavao, and had barely cleared the entrance
when the breeze chopped round to S.S.W., pre-
venting our making much headway.

Final observations for rating were obtained at our
first station, as well as the true bearing of the Peak
of the island of Latte, which we were eventually
enabled to fix, from a sea position, the day following.
I am informed that very dangerous breakers extend
a considerable distance from its western extremity.

The positions fixed by us were, first, the outer
white-faced point on the left side of entrance, which
can readily be known by being the nearest to Nine-pin
Island. It is situated in latitude 18° 38' N., longi-
tude ] 74° 3' W. The second position at the town
is in the King's Old Garden, latitude 18° 39' N.,
longitude 173° 55' W., variation 9° 34, dip 35° 7'.
The island of VaA^ao is placed about sixteen miles
too far to the southward, on Arrowsmith's charts,

VOL. II. D

CHAPTER II.

Visit the Feejees — Ships trikes — Rudderdamaged — Reach anchor-
age— Visit of Missionary — Starhng despatched to Tibooka —
Measures adopted with the natives — Town of Rewa — Fight-
ing bourri canoes — PhiUips and chief of Rewa — Kindness
of Commodore Wilkes — Rivers of Am-ba-ou — Implements
of war — Captured chief — Mode of dressing hair — Leekee worn
by women — Discussion relative to missionaries and their
adoption of Christian Religion— Invasion of Banga — Canni-
halism — Garingaria — Reach Port Resolution — Unpleasant
position of missionaries from navigators — Natives troublesome
— Awkward predicament — Habits and dress of natives — Quit
Tanna.

D 2

36 ARRIVAL AT FEEJEES. [1840.

CHAPTER IT.

Light breezes from S.W. to S.S.E. prevented our
making much progress. On the 26th, we made the
easternmost of the Feejee Groupe, about forty miles
to the northward of Turtle Island, and jjassing
through between the islands, were soon favoured
with a fair wind.

Previous to quitting Tahiti, we had been fortunate
in obtaining information respecting this grouj), and
particularly of several new islands not laid down,
which are excellent guides to what is deemed the
best ^harbour, Nukulau, on the southern side of
Ambou.

At noon, on the 27th, we passed the island of
Matoke, and shaping a course for Ambou, found our-
selves, about two A.M., quite close enough to the
breakers, tacking within sight and hearing of them.
We had, not a moment before, had our attention ex-
cited by lights, probably fishermen on the reefs, other-
wise our position might have been hazardous. The

1840.] LAND ON NUKULAU. 37

lights were instantly withdrawn, upon our showing
lights at our foreyardarm.

At daylight the current had set us considerably
to the westward, and just as we bore up for the
anchorage, the breeze headed us off. As this was
followed by calm, I immediately started in my gig, to
save time, as well as examine the anchorage, &c.,
leaving the sketch of the entrance with the com-
manding officer. We reached the island of Nuku-
lau, about half-past ten, and were visited by a few
fishermen, and, at noon, by seven double (sailing)
canoes, having about ten to twenty persons in each.
One who termed himself " a small tJiief,'' (chief,) un-
derstood a few words of English, and acquainted us
that they were bound to Cantab, or MywooUah on
the charts, which are nearly useless.

About two the ship entered by the eastern chan-
nel, and one of the natives immediately volunteered
his services to conduct her through the shoals. I
had already my misgivings about that channel,
although stated to be " quite free from danger," and
whilst anxiously watching her progress, as well as
that of the boat with the pilot, had the mortification
to see her take the ground.

In a very few moments the ensign, union reversed,
informed me that the accident was serious, and called
for my immediate presence. No time was lost in
packing up our instruments, and proceeding to her.
On reaching her, I found that she was afloat, but
had her rudder off, and had broken the pintles.

38 chief's brother captured. [1840.

" Misfortunes never come single." Having an-
chored and secured the rudder, we commenced warp-
ing, occasionally assisting her by the fore and aft
sails, when she suddenly went from ten into two
fathoms, with her stem between two rocks. The
tide left her, and having steadied her by the stream-
anchor in still water, we patiently awaited the turn of
tide, when we warped her forward to her anchorage,
discovering several other patches in our route. In
the midst of distress we were visited by Mr. Cargill,
one of the resident missionaries, whose wife, then
dangerously ill, required medical assistance.

From him Ave ascertained that the American sur-
veying squadron were still at this group, the Peacock
having quitted the port but a few days since; the
Vincennes was supposed to be at Tacanoa, or Obalau,
where they were all to rendezvous. One of the
king's brothers having taken an active part in an
attack, or retaliation upon an American vessel, by
which the mate and several of the crew lost their
lives, opportunity was taken, when the king, queen,
and chiefs were guests, to detain them as prisoners
until this man was delivered up. Sooner than
lose their king, his brother, Tho-ka-nau-to, or
Phillips, volunteered to produce him. On his ap-
pearance he was heavily ironed and taken away. It
is said he will be taken to America, but what they
can do to him is very problematical.

In consequence of this affair, our reception was
anything but flattering. Neither the king, his

1840.] STARLING DESPATCHED TO LIBOOKA. 39

brothers, or the chiefs, would venture within our
power for some days. This jDartly vanished, when
it became known that it was a British vessel of war.
The king, however, refused to come until I had paid
him a visit, which my duties prevented for some
days.

On the second day after our arrival, Mrs. Cargill
died, and as my duties rendered my absence impos-
sible, the senior lieutenant, attended by all the officers
who could be spared, was sent to attend the funeral.

As there was a probability that one of the Ameri-
can ships could spare us rudder pintles, the Starling-
was immediately despatched to make the necessary
application ; on which occasion, Phillips, (the king's
brother,) who speaks English well, volunteered to
pilot the schooner to Libooka, where the Peacock
was supi^osed to be at anchor.

In the meantime the rudder was hoisted in, and
preparations made for securing it, in the event of her
mission proving unsuccessfal.

Measures were taken to complete the survey of
this port ; and the tents, &c., were pitched on the
island of Nukulau, for obtaining the necessary suite
of magnetic observations, &c. For several days we
were beset by the natives, and were finally compelled
to erect barrier lines, and appoint a guard to keep
them at a proper distance ; not from any troublesome
conduct on their part, but the nature of the ob-
servations did not admit of the vibrations caused

40 GARINGARIA. [1840.

by such numbers walking to and fro on the loose
sand.

The king's brother, Garin-ga-ria, paid us a visit, in
order to ascertain what he could pick up, and nume-
rous spears, clubs, bows, arrows, and ornaments, were
])rought for sale ; but, as customary with these people,
they were exorbitant in their demands — whale's
teeth, knives, &c., being the objects sought in ex-
change. My object was first to secure pigs and yams
for the crew, and then look for arms, curiosities, &c.
Indeed, I had promised Phillips, to await his return.
Some few pigs, yams, and fruit, were purchased. Ver-
million was found to be an article in great demand
amongst the ladies ; I therefore gave them to under-
stand I should reserve this for shells, which they were
to seek on the reefs, and with which we were soon
inundated : although none of them were of any value-

The canoes bound for Cantab, unfortunately for
us, put back the moment they perceived the ship at
anchor, making our island their rendezvous, and
rendering it a difficult matter to preserve order.
However, as some of the principal chiefs accompanied
Garin-ga-ria, as well as their interpreter, and ^'laiv-
yer^^ I made known my wish to have the space oc-
cupied by my party tabooed.

In a few minutes the lawyer, or crown orator,
made known that he was about to address them.
As if by magic, every one immediately became seated,
and a simultaneous signal, by clai)i)ing the hands

1840.] BOUNDARIES ESTABLISHED. 41

and a hollow nasal ivhoo, denoted that they were
attentive.

The manner and gesture of the orator was energetic
and admirable, but as we understood nothing that
was uttered, all that we can say is, that many parts
of his harangue were specially applauded, and at its
termination the same wlioo and clapping of hands
ensued.

I was now informed by the interpreters, (an Ame-
rican black, and two or three Tahitans,) that they
would observe my wishes and respect the boundaries,
which we accordingly formed by stretching lead lines
fromposttopost. It is a curious fact, observed through-
out the groups from Marquesas to this island, that a
native will seldomstooptopassw^z^/eraline; andinmany
cases rather than step over it, even when lying on the
ground, they would walk entirely round the end. This
was rigidly adhered to at Marquesas. I have my doubts
if this line of demarcation is not offensive to them.

Notwithstanding the efforts of the crown lawyer,
I found that nothing but " m et armis " would jDreserve
the boundary, and was compelled, therefore, to keep
sentinels constantly on the alert. These interpreters
alluded to are foreigners taken under the protection
of different chiefs ; they are, de facto, their slaves so
long as they are maintained, and are even compelled
to feed their masters when the custom of the country,
or their being placed under Tambo (or tabu) prevents
their touching their own food with their hands. I
am sorry to say that Englishmen are amongst the

42 TOWN OF REWA. [1840.

number. One of these, the American black, I took
into mj service during our stay, as interpreter, and
he behaved satisfactorily.

Finding that the king was afraid to visit the ship,
in consequence of my failure in visiting the town of
Rewa, I determined on sacrificing a few hours and
paying him a visit ; as, until he was propitiated, there
was no chance of obtaining the necessary supplies of
hogs and vegetables. I therefore started, taking
with me Lieut. Monypenny.

The distance to the town of Rewa from the
anchorage is about six miles, and two to the mouth
of the river, studded with unpleasant sand banks,
over which there is about three feet at low water,
and on which the capricious rollers at times suddenly
bestow a ducking. After entering the river, the
channel at low water becomes tortuous, and the drain
generally bears out, although the main-banks are
about four hundred yards asunder. The canoes are
generally forced up by poles, similar to punting on the
Thames.

The town of Rewa is situated about half a mile
from the bank of the river, on the right bank of a
creek, which shoots off abruptly from the main stream
the width of the creek at that point not exceeding-
one hundred yards.

The houses, which overlook the creek in some
places, are firmly constructed with posts, which do
not rise more than seven feet from the earth. On
these arise very lofty pitched roofs, varying from

1840.]

FIGHTING BOURRI.

43

twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and in some
instances thatched to the thickness of two feet The
doors are small, excepting in the state-house, and
resemble windows or jDorts ; those in elevated mounds
with ditches remind one strongly of block-houses.
In the State-house the resemblance is rendered still
closer by the presence of two ship guns, as if prepared
for war; certainly not very approj)riate chamber
companions.

The establishment of the king is situated upon a
bend of the creek, the houses of his queens occupying
the water-side, and his own being in an open area,
in which also is the house of his princijial queen, the
tomb of his father and brothers, and the " fighting
Bourri," or temple. This latter is a small building
about twelve feet square, erected upon a mound of
about ten feet elevation. The thatched roof is very
steep, probably thirty feet, across the summit of
which is a pole projecting about three feet at each

44 king's palace. [1840.

end, studded with brilliant white porcellanic shells.
(Ovula ovum.)

Their canoes are similar to most of those belonof-
ing to the low islands, very long and narrow, fur-
nished with outriggers, and a convenient house on a
platform. Vide wood-cut.

The house of the king (or more properly chief of
Rewa, he being subordinate to the king at Obalau)
is one of the most filthy in the town. Its dimensions
are about sixty feet in length by thirty wide. Two
thirds of it is well clothed with mats and kept clean ;
the remainder may be considered the cooking and
eating hall, &c.

Three immense iron caldrons, probably intended
for a whale-ship, together with other earthen vessels
for boiling, occupy the cooking square. The king
and favourite queen were seated upon a range of mats
immediately contiguous to the fire, and on entering
invited us to do the same. Shortly after, a roasted
hog and vegetables were introduced, and Ave were
invited to partake. As they had neither knives,
forks, nor plates, I followed their motions, rather
than the chiefs should take fresh offence, and our
journey prove fruitless.

The carving of this hog w^as most adroitly per-
formed by the " carver general," a po-ofessor, with a
piece of slit bamboo, which by-the-bye was first cut
into shape with a steel knife ; therefore I suspect
etiquette demands that the bamboo should be pre-
ferred. The king's barber, taster, &c, (or I suppose

1840.] king's barber. 45

" the barber royal" to be his proper style,) selects
the king's portion, peels his taro, or yam, and pre-
sents it, without any humiliating forms, in a clean
leaf. This person is never permitted, under penalty
of instant death, to touch his own food with his hands ;
and he may be seen tearing his meat like a dog from
the floor with his teeth, whilst it is there held by a
stick. Before the king commences eating, all present
clap their hands about four times. If he drinks,
finishes, or sneezes, the same is repeated. The
principal queen and about ten other queens were
present.

As I found that friendship was established, and
the king signified his intention to visit the ship on
the following Monday, I gladly took my leave.

As some mischievous persons had been busy in-
ducing the chiefs to withhold supplies to the ship,
to suit their own purposes, I visited the brother of
the king, Garingaria, reported to be in the list of
malcontents, and most active in the pig embargo.
His house I found very superior to that of the king ;
very large, neat, and well arranged, but nevertheless
that of a perfect savage. This Garingaria is re-
ported as the most determined cannibal of this
group. He has his friends as well as enemies, and
although savage, is less deceitful than those around
him. I would much rather be his prisoner than
that of the king or any of his immediate retinue-
He distinctly denied any participation in the plot,
and I instantly saw by his countenance that he

46 CHIEFS OF REWA. [1840.

spoke the truth. He immediately sent down a i:>re-
sent of three pigs.

The king of Rewa is a very strong-built, muscu-
lar man, standing about six feet two inches ; Phillips,
or Thokanauto, five feet ten inches ; Garingaria
probably six feet four inches. The prisoner taken
away in the Peacock, said to be a very fine man, we
did not see. The present king, who is considered a
very weak-minded man, and despised by his bro-
thers, succeeded his father, who, according to custom,
was murdered to make room for him. It is not
improbable that his death will shortly enable one of
the remaining brothers to succeed him. Indeed,
Phillips said in his presence, " I shall be king in four
years." I found there were plenty of spies to in-
terpret falsely the few English sentences which
escaped me.

As the moment approached for the king's visit,
his courage failed, and as it suited my purpose to
re-visit Rewa, I went up to tell him my opinion.
I found myself so perplexed by the falsehoods and
misrepresentations, by which he had been misled,
that I left him in disgust, but not without adopting
secure measures for our supplies.

On the day following, yams in profusion arrived,
but few pigs ; and having purchased sufficient for our
crew, I declined further barter until the arrival of
more pigs.

On the 13th, the Starling returned, bringing three
pintles, belonging to the Peacock, Captain Wilkes, of

V

.^ ■ b

■'^-^^^tS^ SS^'y

1840.] CIVILITY OF COMMODORE WILKES. 4?

the Vincemies, having in the handsomest manner
despatched one of his boats to that vessel, thinking
her size better adapted ; at the same time ofFering
those of the Vincennes, should they not answer.
At this critical moment, our carpenter and armourer
became ill. Fortunately, an engineer by trade hap-
pened to call upon me for assistance to recover pro-
perty alleged to be piratically taken from him, and
as he would be compelled to await the arrival of
the parties, he consented to give his assistance in
fitting and reducing the metal work, which he exe-
cuted admirably ; and by the evening of the 15th,
we were in a condition to complete our voyage.

On the evening of the 15th, the tender of the
Vincennes hove in sight, and Captain Wilkes him-
self very shortly came on board. Under any cir-
cumstances this was a satisfaction I had long hoped
for, but in these remote regions, and entirely shut
out from civilized beings, it became, independent of
the feelings due to his promptitude in relievino-
our difficulties, matter of sincere satisfaction. Un-
fortunately I had only that morning despatched the
Starling to fix the position of Banga, one of the
new islands not placed on the chart, and had pro-
mised to join him on Monday. Having, however,
been nearly eighteen hours together, we were en-
abled to talk over matters of much interest to both
expeditions, and as they would go over part of our
ground, their observations made in the same posi-
tions would become doubly interesting.

48 SULPHUR QUITS NUKULAU. [1840.

Our observatory and tents being embarked, and
rudder in order, after dinner we parted ; and by the
aid of the moon the Sulphur was again moving
through the waters with her accustomed freedom.

The United States Expedition, under the com-
mand of Commodore Wilkes, had very recently re-
turned from the Antarctic regions, via New South
Wales, bringing us later English news than we had
previously seen. They had visited the Tonga
group, and had been about six weeks examining the
Feejees, of which they intended to complete the
chart. When I state that four large islands occurred
in our passage alone, which are not placed on the
charts, and that many unnoticed exist in the whole
group, which is most erroneously set forth in the charts,
the value of their lal)ours may be easily appreciated.

Owing to threats held out that vengeance would
be taken for the capture of the chief by the Pea-
cock, I did not conceive it right to risk the chance
of aggression, by permitting our parties to pursue
their examinations Avhere our force could not act ;
consequently, beyond the island of Nukulau and the
beach-line little was obtained.

The anchorage of Nukulau is safe, as well as con-
venient. Two safe and easy passages lead to it,
and with the assistance of the chart, vessels can
enter at all times without a pilot. The eastern
channel, by which the Sulphur entered, is also safe,
if assisted by the chart and a boat ahead. The
best anchorage is in twelve fathoms, with the outer

1840.] RIVERS OF AMBOW. 49

island barely shut in with Nukulau, about two cables
length from the shore, in a muddy bottom. The
strongest breezes blow from south to south-west.
Water can be had at Nukulau, or by sending up the
river. The Sulphur watered at the island.

At present there are so many doubts about the
jwoper name of the main island, that I retain
" Ambow,""* this being the name understood by the
chiefs and natives, and it has stood sufficiently long
on the charts for preference.

It is traversed by very extensive rivers, and the
chiefs assert that in the rainy season the fresh
water prevails one mile beyond the breakers. It
is also asserted that no one has yet reached the
source of this river, and that numerous other similar
streams exist. The Americans made the attempt, and
I am informed penetrated six miles beyond any previ-
ous white person. I am not aware of anything to repay
the labour, which probably would entail sickness on
the exploring party. The mountains are lofty, and
exhibit deep ravines between the ranges, which alone
would account for powerful streams. They are
generally shallow, and not adapted for navigation.

A code of regulations has been drawn up and
signed by mark, for the chiefs of Rewa, (not of
Ba-ou,) but as they neither read, write, nor under-
stand the laws they have enacted, (possibly Phillips
may be an exception,) they will prove a dead letter.

* I think, although Ambow on charts, that it should be written
Ambauo. Bauo being the residence of the principal or king.
VOL. II. E

50 IMPLEMENTS OF WAR, [1840.

Their implements of Avar are clubs, spears, bows,
and arrows ; but the club appears to be that gene-
rally in use. Probably the sj)ear may be used on
the first charge, but in conversation they never say
that " a man was sj^eared ;" it is invariably " clubbed."
These clubs are very neatly made, of a strong hard
wood, resembhng live oak in grain, and ornamented
with coloured sennit, made from cocoa-nut fibre.
They generally carry with them short clubs, similar to
" life preservers," which are the club root of a pe-
culiar tree affording a knob about the size of an
orange, the stem, or handle, seldom exceeding three
quarters of an inch in diameter. These are either
carved or smoothly polished. It is a very formida-
ble Aveapon, and probably, excepting in actions
where numbers are engaged, their most fatal instru-
ment of death. They readily part with any of their
arms or ornaments for whale teeth, which are at all
times irresistible articles in traffic.

The costume of the men is similar to that of the
Tonga group, or most of the Pacific Islands, viz.,
a simple maro round the waist. The chiefs who
possess European finery, seldom exhibit it, except-
ing Phillips, (Thokanauto) who generally made his
appearance in white trowsers, shirt, waistcoat, and
surtout. Indeed, I would not permit him to visit
the ship in any other costume. This chief speaks
Eno'lish, French, and Spanish, is clever and intelli-
gent, and has made one or two voyages in an Ame-
rican trader to Tahiti, and the neighbouring islands.

1840.] THOKANAUTO OR PHILLIPS. 51

It is probable that he will shortly have the chief
power at Rewa, as he broadly hinted in the pre-
sence of his brother. It is to be hoped that he will
attain it by a more civilized process than the cus-
tomary mode.

The king or principal chief of Ambow, " Old
Snuff," as he is termed, resides at Bauo, or Bow,
about thirty miles up the river, and near to the river
which empties itself northerly at Obalauo. His
son, " Young Snuff," is described as an active, intelli-
gent young man, much prepossessed in favour of our
countrymen.

Indeed, the abstraction of the Rewa chief by
the Americans has irritated the natives amazingly, and
will probably injure their mercantile interests. The
story told here is that this chief resented some in-
dignity offered him by an American trader on
some former visit, and on the return of some of
the crew in another vessel, they were " clubbed."
It is stated that he was kept chained in her main
top, but escaped, and swam ashore. However, on
the arrival of the American squadron, the Peacock
was despatched to demand this chief. His capture
was achieved as before stated. This was the ver-
sion given by the missionaries. Doubtless we shall
hear the facts in a more authenticated form, when
the narrative of the exploring voyage comes out.

Both men and women take great pride in dress-
ing their hair. Although it is long enough some-
times to reach to the waist, it nevertheless has a

E 2

52 MODE OF DRESSING HAIR. [1840.

strong disposition to curl or frizzle, and the main
object appears to be to render each individual hair
indejDendent, presenting an uniform mob, similar to
the wigs of onr bishoiDS. In one instance I measured
the distance from the skin to the outer edge of the
hair, which was six inches. In some cases of the
first class queens, the external shape was beautifully
even and round, generally coloured by powder, of
a very light lead colour. The men in many in-
stances have their hair party-coloured ; sometimes
black, red, blue, and lead, or dirty white, on the same
scalp. In several instances I noticed a single red
long lock cultivated from the side of a thick frizzled
black mob. These colours are obtained from dif-
ferent barks, the whitish or lead colour from the
ashes of the bark of the bread fruit-tree. Those
who cannot maintain a barber frequently cover
the hair with tapa, which gives it the appearance
of a turban.

This style of dress, with their thick black beards,
and tapa thrown over the shoulder, gives them
a Turkish aspect. They are inordinately fond of
paint. Vermilion is equal to gold ; but failing this,
they besmear themselves with a thick coating of
lampblack, and oil or varnish, and vary it by scor-
ing off until the skin shews, or by coloured ashes.
Their chief object in dress is to render themselves
as unlike human beings as possible ; the more ter-
rific, the more admired. They have nearly the
same abhorrence of a white skin as we have of
a black one.

1840.] DISCUSSION OF RELIGION. 53

The women wear an ornamented belt, about four
inches deep, with six inches fringe, called a leekee-
Thej are very neatly worked, and are becoming.
The queen of Rewa had no other covering. Her
hair, however, was very neatly dressed, and as per-
fect as if she had come from under the hands of a
French frisseur.

I am afraid that the missionaries will find these
people far beyond their powers. They have no
chiefs of sufficient importance to carry into effect
any important change, and possibly if any one at-
tempted it otherwise than by example, his head
might pay the forfeit. They are too self-willed
and independent to be driven, and at the present
moment far too ferocious to submit to any re-
straint.

I put the question to Phillips, who answered im-
mediately to the point. " They have no objection
to the residence of the missionaries, and would
feed them ; and would not molest any one
voluntarily embracing their religion. But thev
dislike their spying into their houses. By-and-
bye, when they see more of them, and imderstand
them, the people may come round."

" But," I observed, " the chiefs should set the
example, as the kings of all the other islands have
done."

" What did they gim them for helping them ?"
I replied, " Nothing ; they were induced by the

54 ARRIVE AT BANGA. [1840.

superior advantages which the christian religion of-
fered."

As he could not be made to comprehend this
part of the suliject, and appeared restless, I changed
the topic.

With a light air from the eastward, we pursued
our course for the island of Banga, and about four
A.M. observed the Starling at anchor. Lieut. Kellett
came on board at daylight, but as nothing offered
of sufficient interest to detain the ship, I merely
landed to secure the position, and complete the
survey which had been commenced by the Starling.
The anchorage is safe and convenient, and pro-
bably, had I been aware of its existence, would
have been selected in preference to Nukulau for
our astronomical position, as being more detached
from a large population. Not long since it pos-
sessed its full portion of inhabitants ; but on the
death of their king, who was tributary to the king
of Rewa, the chiefs determined to throw off the
yoke, and become independent.

Such a pretext for war was not overlooked, and
a band of warriors immediately issued forth to
reduce them to submission, or in plainer terms, to
rob them of all they possessed. This was found
difficult by reason of their fastnesses, the towns
being situated in many cases on the very summit of
the mountains, elevated one thousand four hundred
feet above the sea

1840.] CANNIBALISM. 55

Finding tliej were not sufficiently strong, rein-
forcements were demanded, which were sent under
the command of Garingaria, or raised by him
under a contract that he might exterminate them.
His brother, Thokanauto, (or Phillips,) who is up-
held as the white man's friend, (but only so long as
he can get anything from him,) was foremost in
destroying the villagers by fire, and committing
other brutal acts. The expedition resulted in vic-
tory to the besiegers, the death of the principal
chief, and several hmidreds of the population. The
son of the chief was spared to govern, under the
usual subjection.

The sequel will hardly be credited, yet it is be-
yond doubt : cannibalism to a frightful degree still
prevails amongst this people, and, as it would seem,
almost as one of their highest enjoyments. The victims
of this ferocious slaughter were regularly prepared,
being baked, packed, and distributed in portions to
the various towns which furnished warriors, according
to their exploits ; and they were feasted on with a
degree of savage barbarity nearly incredible ! They
imagine that they increase in bravery, by eating
their valorous enemy.

This Garingaria is a noted cannibal, and it is as-
serted that he killed one of his wives and ate her.
This he denied, and accounted for her death (which
took place violently by his order) on other grounds.
He did not attempt a denial of his acts at Banga,
nor did Phillips. These occurrences are of late

56 CHIEF GARINGARIA. [1840.

date, I am told they threw one or more of the
heads (which they do not eat) into the missionary's
compound.

The population of the Feejees are very tall, far
above the height of any other nation I have seen.
Of five men assembled in my tent, none were under
six feet two inches. It was rather an awkward sub-
ject to tax Garingaria with in his own house, and
solely attended by his own dependent, our inter-
preter; but he took it very quietly, and observed
that he cared not for human flesh, unless it was
that of his enemy, and taken in battle. When he
used this expression, I could not help thinking that
his lips were sympathetically in motion, and that T
had better not make myself too hostile. I there-
fore bid him good evening.

Quitting the unfortunate island of Banga, we steered
a course to pass close to Cantab, and the following
day passed its western extreme, steering for Tanna,
one of the southernmost of the New Hebrides.

On the 20th Ave made for the island of Erronan,
which, from our great distance, presented the appear-
ance of a low flat island. On the following morn-
ing we passed about seven miles to the southward,
when a nearer view showed it to be a very high
truncated cone, well wooded, and surrounded by a
low belt of flat land, projecting aboat half a mile
beyond its base. We were not sufficiently near to
observe inhabitants, or if landing or harbours ex-
isted.

1840.] REACH PORT RESOLUTION. 57

Shortly after, the island of Annatom was noticed
to the S. W., and Tanna west. Annatom presents
undulating hills, but no remarkable peaks or strik-
ing features. Tanna is a larger island, presents
high peaks and ranges on the southern portion, with
very abrupt cliffy bluffs.

Port Resolution may readily be found, by a very
remarkable yellow sandstone bluff at its north-west
angle, and which is situated to the northward of
the entrance ; also by the smoke of the volcano,
a little inland from it. Approaching from the
southward, the entrance of the port might be over-
shot, by reason of the overlapping breakers; but
by bearing in mind that it is formed by the low
'peninsular south-east angle, and that the entrance is
situated about one mile southerly of the yellow
bluff, it wall easily be found.

By noon we reached the entrance, the wind being
dead out : but by edging close to the breakers on our
left, and hauling sharp up, we made the entrance, and in
four boards reached our berth inside in six fathoms.
It is too narrow for a long vessel to work in, and
it is preferable to shoot into fifteen fathoms, and
be prepared to warp.

We were soon visited by the natives, in some of
the most miserable apologies for canoes that we
have yet witnessed. In one of these frail barks
came the resident missionary, a native of Samoa,
one of the Navigator Group, left here by the mis-
sionary vessel to convert these people. I took him

.58 MISSIONARIES FROM "NAVIGATORS." [1840.

with me to select a position favourable for our ob-
servations. This did not appear likely to be effected
on the eastern side of the bay, and Ave therefore
commenced those requiring the most undivided
attention on the western rocky cliffs. The
natives, however, soon began to find us there, which,
added to the frequent vibration from the volcano,
determined me on trying the town side the ensuing-
day.

Being short of fuel, and depending on the peace-
able character given of these people by Cook, added
to the presence of the messengers of peace and good
will, I determined on making the most of time
here, and parties were accordingly despatched wood-
ing, as well as making the survey of the port.

Our observing position was pitched in front of the
house of the missionaries, a mere thatched hovel, in
which five unfortunate natives of the Navigators
were literally imprisoned, being compelled to close
the door, immediately one entered or departed, to
prevent the intrusion of the natives. Their number
consisted originally of six men and two women, but
their chief (or king, as they termed him,) died not
long since, and the remainder were suffering more or
less from fever and ague. They apjDear to be very
uneasy and unhappy, and painfully anxious to return
to their native land. They enquired most anxiously
and eagerly if we were bound to the Navigators; and
although their stock of English was but scanty, we
could i)lainly understand that they were in great fear

1840.] UNPLEASANT SITUATION. 59

from the natives, and much dreaded our departure.
They were, moreover, aware of the melancholy fate
of Mr. Williams and his companion, at the neigh-
bouring island of Mallicolo.

It was with feelings of deep disappointment that
our mutual ignorance of the language prevented me
from using any exertions to smooth their way with
the natives, who appear a most lawless set. The
surgeon inquired into their complaints, and his pre-
scriptions probably afforded temporary alleviation, but,
with the mind so much depressed and harassed, I
fear recovery is problematical. The only chance
they now have, is the return of the missionary
vessel from New South Wales, when they will be
doubtless removed to Samoa.

The fatal catastrophe to Mr. Williams, and his
companion at Mallicolo, has not failed to make
a deep impression ; and although the natives en-
deavoured to persuade us that they abhorred
the unnatural practice of cannibalism, I should be
very sorry to be placed at their mercy. I certainly
felt a more than ordinary interest about these unfor-
tunate beings, and the frequent repetition of "Samoa,
Samoa," from the sick within the hut, sounded like
the cry of the condemned.

During the course of my pursuits, I was frequently
annoyed by the natives intruding too closely on our
tabu lines, although frequently warned by their own
chief, as wells as one of the missionaries, to preserve
the prescribed boundaries. It was unfortunate that

60 NATIVES TROUBLESOME. [1840.

we had so many irons in the fire, otherwise I could
have placed sufficient men on the lines of demarca-
tion to have effectually deterred the ill-disposed
from seeking a quarrel, for which several were evi-
dently much inclined.

I had also a strong reason for keeping up a good
imderstanding, without arms, if possible, in order to
show them how little we feared anything from them,
want of decision generally, in my opinion, acting
rather as an inducement to molestation. Had force
been resorted to, I also foresaw that their spleen
might have been vented upon the unfortunate, un-
protected missionaries, who were already dreading
our departure.

Though their actions, to other visitors, not simi-
larly occupied with ourselves, would have been
deemed harmless, they, monkey-like, no sooner com-
prehended that they could, without serious displeasure,
annoy me by the vibration of the ground at the mo-
ments for observation, than they commenced simul-
taneous poundings with billets of wood, and threw
stones high into the air, which fell near and risked
the instruments. In order to secure the last and
most important set, (which can only be comjirehend-
ed by those as intently engaged,) I found it necessary
to clear the ground to a certain distance, and to
effect this, recalled one of the cutters ; letting the
chiefs understand my determination.

The instant the crew landed, they enforced my
wishes, and the yell of departure, half serious, half

1840.] AWKWARD PREDICAMENT. 61

comic, which burst forth, had nearly awakened the slum-
bers of the Sulpliur, which had kept an attentive eye
on our movements. Anything, even in mimic hostihty
after this, would have drawn an unfortunate shot : of
this I was not aware until my return in the evening-.
However, a few minutes sufficed to complete what I
required, when I hastened to remove anything like
bad feeling, by mixing immediately with them.

The sentinel having reported that one of the natives
raised his club with a threatening attitude, when
he warned him off the instruments, I immediately
went to him and desired him, by signs, to lay down
his club, which he immediately did, trembling. I
then gave it in charge to the sentinel, who placed it
under his foot for safer custody, and the native was
ordered out of bounds. A cry of derision at his ex-
pense followed. The chiefs were with me, and re-
quested me to be quiet, ordering the people back.
After great intercession on the part of the chiefs, and
on condition that the man was sent entirely away, I
allowed the club to be restored to his chief. This
shows how completely savages may be reduced from
insolence to abject fear, by even pretending deter-
mination, for I was unarmed. But as it was done
in a good-humoured manner, and made a joke
against the party, it failed to procure him support had
he been inclined to resist.

Very little was brought to the beach for traffic,
although on my landing the first question asked, was
for "permission to open trade." The little that

G2 HABITS AND DRESS OF NATIVES. [1840.

they did bring consisted of large yams, (weighing thirty-
six pounds,) plantains, malay apples, sugar-cane of very
large growth and very tender skin, and a few small
chickens. The ornaments brought were light bows,
arrows, and carved wristbands made from the shell of
the cocoa-nut. They were not disposed to part with
their clubs, or the bits of serpentine suspended to
their necks.

In all their productions of art they were far behind
any of the islands we have visited. They differ also
from any hitherto noticed by us in their costume.
The hair is bound into minute ringlets, about one
twentieth of an inch in diameter, the last three or
four inches of the ends being allowed to curl, or
wave, so that it assumes a thick wig of lines, fagged
at the ends. They are very plentifully smeared with
black and red paint, the latter resembling very
coarse ochre, but vermilion they did not value.

They do not wear the customary maro, or tapas,
on the loins ; but follow the custom in many parts of
Africa, of binding matting, terminating in ornaments.
The women wear a petticoat, very similar in fashion
to that of Nootka, Columbia River, &c., but formed
of the loose fibres of the Hibiscus tiliaceus, (or
Purau.) This is heavy, and being sometimes worn
diagonally over one shoulder, forms a covering to the
side exposed to the sun. The septum of the nose of
the women is perforated, and from the size of the
aperture, calculated to sustain a weighty ornament.
The lobes of the ear, in the males, are also perfo-

1840.] CHARACTER OF NATIVES. 63

rated, but no ornaments were displayed in tlieui.
The men also wore shells round the arm, above the
elbow, (generally Ovula Ovum,) and some few had
pretty cones and bulla round the neck ; but we were
unable to procure a single live shell from them,
although they were distinctly aware that they would
receive ample compensation for their labours.

Altogether they appear to be very low in the scale
of human beings, little inclined to traffic, filthy, ill-
looking, insolent, and troublesome as a people. Of
course there are exceptions.

Our party employed wooding at the extreme end
of the bay, were latterly troubled by their throwing
stones, but this probably arose merely from a mis-
chievous disposition.

By four o'clock our operations were concluded,
and having presented to our unfortunate friends the
missionaries, some few necessaries, and taken leave not
without some misgiving as to their security, I walked
to the extremity of the bay, towards the ship, the gig
keeping pace along shore, purchasing occasionally the
few things brought down by the natives, who con-
tinued to throng about me with much good-humour.
I pursued this course purposely, in order to dis-
cover if any ill-feeling existed amongst them ; and
to ensure keeping them at a respectful distance, I
very quietly borrowed the club of the nearest man,
without the slightest resistance on his part, (although
generally they are very tenacious on this point, when

64 QUIT PORT RESOLUTION. [1840.

arms are near,) and used it to make them preserve
their distance.

These acts, although trivial to the reader, were
performed in a manner which I have never known to
fail amongst savages. If resistance is shown I do
not persist, generally leaving the matter to the feel-
ings of those around. But I have never failed in
obtaining my object, and restoring harmony, even
when I suspected I had outraged any of their super-
stitions. If success be proof, I have judged cor-
rectly ; for I never had occasion in my life, where
my oum ivill guided, to have recourse to force.

By the time I reached my point for embarkation
I found them all in good humour, anxiously inquir-
ing if the ship slept in the bay, and when we intended
to depart ; at the same time making motions to cry,
and following us off with Aloha Aleeke, or " good-
bye, chief."

Our gentry who were exploring, in pursuit of
natural history, were not altogether unmolested, and
this circumstance, added to the shortness of our visit,
prevented their penetrating far inland. The volcano
smoked and muttered occasionally, and, when the
breeze blew from it, brought a plentiful supply of
cinder dust.

The habitations of these people are, in general,
mere huts, which I should have supposed temporary,
had they not exactly corresponded to the description
given of them by Cook. He terms them merely the
thatched roof of a house. They are, however, even

1840.] THERMAL SPRING. 65

inferior to that, being simply high enough at the apex
for a man to stand upright, and certainly not exceed-
ing six feet spread at the base. Their gardens ap-
pear to occupy more of their attention, being neatly
fenced in with reeds.

The surgeon visited the hot spring at the base of
the cliff, mentioned in Cook, but the water did not
appear to contain anything to render its taste un-
pleasant.

VOL. II.

CHAPTER III.

Quit Port Resolution — Tanna — Pass Erromango — Arrive off
Island of Guadalcanar — Dangers of Guadalcanar — Proceed to
Port Carteret — New Ireland — Examine Port Gower and Turtle
Bay — Visited by natives — Quit Port Carteret — Pass Duke of
York's Island — Visited by canoes — Articles brought for
traffic — Mother and Daughter — Proceed towards New
Guinea — Sighting Elizabeth Island and Admiralty Group —
Pass the Britannia Islands discovered in 1795 — Land, and
survey Port Victoria — Visit of natives — Thermal springs —
Quit Port Victoria, and examine coast of Guinea — Structure of
canoes — Pass " Los Crespos" — Anchor off Arimoa — Visited by
natives — Habitations — Floating islands — Reach island of
Jobie — Description of — Quit Jobie— Pass Goelvink's Bay — Fix
position of Middleburg and Amsterdam — Land at Pigeon
Island — Dampier Strait — Pass Ceram — Anchor in Cajeli Bay
— Bouro — Quit, and reach Amboina.

68 QUIT PORT RESOLUTION. [1840.

CHAPTER III.

At dawn on the 24th June, with light airs from
N.W., we quitted Port Resolution. Several canoes
came off, bringing fowls and fruit, and followed us
about a mile, and when they quitted, repeated their
aloha, accompanied with invitations to return. It
is very probable that another day's sojourn would
have made us better acquainted, and exhibited a
better market.

The breeze did not permit us to steer a course,
and we were barely able to reach a low island to the
N.E., mentioned by Cook, which is situated about
ten miles to the northward of the port. As we
approached, the natives flocked to the beach, where
we plainly discerned two, attired in frocks, trowsers,
and hats, whom we immediately set down as mis-
sionaries, probably part of those from Samoa.
Several canoes put off, but pulling too far ahead of
where we should fetch, failed in reaching us. We
tacked within musket-shot of the rocks, which in

1840.] PASS ERROMANGO. G9

several places appeared to afford convenient cover
for landing.

Our next board brought us well in with the north
point of Tanna, near sunset, and shortly after tack-
ing, the breeze gradually favoured, until we were
enabled to make a free course, during the night, past
Erromango.

I had failed in putting to sea the previous even-
ing, in order to allow my crew their full night's
rest, as well as in the hope of being able to pass
Erromango by daylight, and sufficiently near to
communicate with the canoes, or probably to land
and determine its position. It was, therefore, a dis-
appointment, after the late lamentable occurrences at
this island or Mallicolo, that they had not the sight
of other vessels of war, to afford them the impression
at least that Great Britain wdll not lose sight of her
subjects scattered over the vast surface of the
globe. I might possibly have derived other inform-
ation as to their present disposition.

At daylight the remarkable saddle peaks, situated
over Traitor's Head of Cook, and by which this
island may be particularly distinguished, were seen
about fifteen miles to the southward. The breeze
fresh from S.E., afforded us strong hopes of soon
nearing Sandwich Island, and by sunset its outline
was well defined. We found ourselves set consi-
derably to the northward by the current, and changed
our course to keep well off the land.

Shortly after eight o'clock breakers were reported

70 ISLAND OF GUADALCANAR. [1840.

to leeward. The ship was tacked, and we stood
off an hour without observing them. We again
tacked, and kept the wind until the morning. The
report was evidently incorrect, as our position at
dawn evinced. By noon we were about fifteen
miles off the north end of Sandwich Island, with
several smaller in sight in the northern quarter.
Our course was shaped to clear the island of Mal-
licolo, which at sunset was not visible. Wind
easterly, with very unpleasant cross swell from S.W.,
as well as S.E.

It was my intention to touch at the island of
Guadalcanar, or the nearest convenient spot in that
meridian. On the morning of the 1st July we made
the island ; weather very unsettled, heavy rain and
squalls, and making but little progress against a
strong S.W. current. By noon we had reached a
small islet off the northern point ; but experienced a
very unpleasant sea, and heavy breakers were noticed
extending a considerable distance in the offing.

Quitting the ship, I ran in with the Starling,
until she reached seven fathoms, when, disliking the
sea then running, which would have prevented her
clawing off in the event of danger, I proceeded in
my gig to examine the inner side of the island.
Unfortunately no depth for safe anchorage could
be found, although the facility for landing rendered
this a most eligible spot for our operations. I had
previously intended standing, off and on, during the
night, and landing in the morning, but on my

1840.] NEW IRELAND. 71

return to the ship, finding the current set strong
towards the breakers, and moreover having split our
foresail, the ship being very uneasy, I determined on
seeking a more eligible situation, and bore away for
New Ireland.

The breeze favoured us, but a strong current from
N.E. prevented our making the land on the even-
ing of the 4th. Unfortunately we had no meridian
observation on that day, and heavy squalls with
thunder, lightning, and rain, (or the customary
rainy season of this region,) overtook us about eight
o'clock, at the very moment when we hoped to reach
our port.

About four A. M., we found ourselves close in with
the breakers, the squall providentially clearing up
just in time to wear clear of destruction. Calms
and baffling winds ensued, preventing our reaching
our port by daylight ; but the weather proving fine,
and obtaining a fair view of the landmarks, we had
no hesitation in running in by night, — although it
had been well if Carteret had stated that the pas^
sage between the Booby and the main was unsafe.
Between the flaws and warping we reached our an-
chorage in port Carteret by midnight ; affording to
our crew a good night's rest, instead of knocking
about at the mercy of swell and currents outside.
We were fortunate, as the rains recommenced at
dawn, and continued with slight intermission during
the whole period of our visit.

On the second day we succeeded in securing our

72 PORT CARTERET. [1840.

principal observations, and the main triangulation
of port Carteret. I then joined the Starling, and
proceeded to complete the coast as far as Cape St.
George, leaving the SuljDhur to complete wood,
water, &c. Rain still impeded us, but by persever-
ance and taking every advantage which offered, this
was eventually achieved.

This southern bay is termed Gower's Harbour and
English Cove. The latter is more peculiarly
adapted for watering, but does not afford sufficient
facility for ingress or egress without towing. At
the southern extremity of Gower's Harbour, we fell
in with a party of five natives, one of whom spoke
a little English. From him we learned that the
visits of British vessels from Sidney were frequent ;
that the natives who communicated with them
resided on the eastern side of the island ; and
that their supplies consisted chiefly of wild hogs,
fruit, and vegetables. He was anxious to sleep on
board the schooner, to which we consented, and his
allies, youths from sixteen to eighteen, were de-
spatched home, with directions to return the follow-
ing morning with stock, &c.

The inclemency of the weather, I suspect, pre-
vented this, and our labours having terminated, our
new friend " Tom Starling " (for Jack seldom fails to
christen his friends) was landed, and we rejoined the
Sulphur that evening.

" Tom Starling " informed us " that the rains
would cease in one moon, and that they would then

1840.] PORT GOWER. 73

be considerably more oppressed by the sun." The
continuance of the torrents of rain has certainly sur-
passed anything I have before observed in any other
clime. Our good fortune, however permitted us to
obtain sufficient sun the day following our return, to
rate our chronometers, and thus released us from
further sojourn in this land of moisture.

Just on the eve of departure, half a dozen miser-
able half-drowned natives came down to the water-
ing place, bringing a cooked pig, with a few bad
specimens of bread fruit. They did not understand
English, and having presented them with a few
beads and other articles, they were relanded, taking
with them their pig, &c. They were entirely naked,
very slightly made, and resemble much the natives of
Tanna, the hair in the same minute queues, with
bushy points, although not bound up.

On the morning of the 16th, having embarked the
observatory, we quitted Port Carteret ; the day
beautifully fine, but wind light.

Having examined the range comprehending Ports
Carteret and Gower, I should certainly on any future
visit prefer what in our survey I have designated
Port Sulphur, as that under every circumstance the
best adapted for wooding and watering, ingress and
egress under canvas, and affording, what is most
important, convenient depth for anchorage.

In Gower's harbour the depth is not only incon-
venient, being thirty fathoms, but there is great
liability to drag off the bank. In English Cove the

74 TURTLE BAY. [1840.

swell sets in so heavily at times that it may be difficult,
or impossible, to tow, and watering is not so con-
venient as in Sulphur Bay.

For a temporary supply without intending to
anchor, the stream at the southern bay in Gower's
Harbour will be found most convenient, as a vessel
might drop towards the passage through Gower's
Harbour, and pass out by Turtle Bay. The anchorage
in Turtle Bay is bad, by reason of the rocky bottom
as well as great depth.

During our stay there, for two days, in the Starling,
we experienced the shock of an earthquake, which led
us to believe that we were dragging over rocks. The
same was experienced on board the ship at the same
instant, and those on shore state that they felt the un-
dulation strongly.

Fuel of the best quality is to be had at the beach
in any of these harbours, as well as fancy woods for
cabinet making, including tamanu, ebony, &c. The
nutmeg was found, but not abundant, nor of the kind
valued in commerce.

Although Captain Carteret named the greater
island in Port Carteret Cocoa Island, from the abun-
dance of cocoa nuts found there at the period of his
visit, not a single tree of this fruit now exists. The
bastard sago palm, pandanus, &c., grow luxuriantly,
although the depth of soil is literally nothing, the
trees rising through the loose limestone rock.

The structure of the reefs, points, cliffs, &c., in this
region is entirely limestone, frequently crystallized,

1840.] DUKE OF York's island. 75

but it is rather remarkable that on three islets
forming these harbours all the rocks near the beach
are loose, and apparently disturbed by some violent
action. In the main streams, sandstone, claystone,
and porphyritic balls were found.

The breeze, failing with an unpleasant swell setting
on the islands, compelled us to warp as well as tow,
and it was not until noon that we considered ourselves
safe on our own element again. The breeze just
favoured us in time to send our men to their dinner
for which they doubtless had good appetites, and our
head was then directed for Duke of York's Island,
which we reached the following afternoon. We
were visited by several canoes bringing cocoa-nuts,
bananas, pine apples, and several fruits unknown to
us ; also some few shells, principally nautilus,
(pompilius.) These were readily purchased for beads,
but the natives were very timid and could not be
pei-suaded to come on board.

On the day following we ran along the north
western side of New Ireland, in order to ascertain
how far the natives were disposed to barter, and what
they had to dispose of. Many canoes put off, and,
after some solicitation, not only came alongside, but
the natives ventured on board. Viewed in their
canoes we thought them a tall race, but I was much
surprised, on actual measurement as they were standing
beside us, that the man I had selected as their stoutest
and tallest did not exceed five feet seven, and was
spare withal.

76 VISITS OF NATIVES. [1840.

The canoes, which appeared for the most part to
be new, are constructed from a hard white wood
with a red core, (probably a mimosa.) They are
very simple and neat, and furnished with the custo-
mary outriggers. They generally contained three or
four persons. The largest, which was about fifty
feet in length, contained eight. All those who came
off in the canoes were male, and entirely naked, but
the females, whom we discerned dancing and waving
along the beach, were covered with the leekee of
the Feejees and new Hebrides. The natives who
ventured on board had each a single leaf stuck in
their belts, but no more.

As they brought nothing but cocoa-nuts and very
small bread fruit, and were moreover very difficult to
please, we very politely caused their departure, by
slightly increasing our speed. I have little doubt
that had we been able to anchor, stock, &c., would
have been easily procured.

The indentations of the coast appeared to offer
several very snug little harbours, and judging from
the numerous canoes as well as from the population
we saw on the beach, added to large patches of
cleared land, there can be little doubt that they have
sufficient produce. Probably the distance at which
we were from the land at the time they put off pre-
vented their risking live stock.

On the day following, being a little further in
advance, a large and handsomely finished canoe, with

1840.] MOTHER AND DAUGHTER. 77

the figure-head turned inwards, paid us a visit, but
were too timid to communicate. Doubtless she con-
tained a chief, as those who managed her were
silent, and did not even notice our advances to friendly
communications. Our indisposition also to delay
longer in this region of rains, calms, and variables
did not induce us to make much repetition, although,
so long from home, " New Irish " was a novelty in
our ears. The season certainly was most unfortunate,
as from the nature of the coast before us I could
easily imagine the scenery in fine weather to be
magnificent.

The hills of New Ireland rise to a height of fifteen
hundred to two thousand feet, and are clothed from
base to summit with the most luxuriant forest. In
the distance the high lands of New Britain, with the
magnificent peaks of " Mother and Daughter," afford
a fine finish to the landscape.

In a mercantile point of view I cannot at present
perceive how these islands can prove interesting beyond
the fancy woods and tortoise shell, of which latter
substance every canoe appeared to possess several
plates. It is of good quality, better than I have
before noticed in the Pacific, and from the manner
in which it was offered no doubt vessels come here
to trade for it ; indeed we learnt as much from Tom
Starling.

It was unfortunate that such an opportunity for
acquiring a more perfect estimate of these islands
and their resources was completely marred, by the

78 BRITANNIA ISLANDS. [1840.

dreadfully tedious weather and long sick list, which
rendered further delay impossible.

We continued making but little progress through
torrents of rain, and pressed by the current about
one mile per hour to the N.E. On the 23rd we
passed Elizabeth Island, and saw part of Admiralty
Group, and on the 24th, with fine weather, passed
Purdy's Island, finding the current still pressing us
to the northward.

On the 25th of July, the group laid down on
Arrowsmith's chart as the "Six Islands," seen by
the Britannia in 1795, were in sight, as well as
several other low islands to the southward, which
probably escaped notice, amounting in all to ten.
At midnight the westernmost was discovered ahead,
but at day-break, appeared to compose part of the
main land of New Guinea.

Two more low islands were also observed to the
northward, and as my principal object was to select
a spot free from basaltic or volcanic influence, these
appeared to offer an eligible position. About the
same time a deep bay was observed on the S.W.
angle of what I now believed to be merely a penin-
sula, and my friend Kellett was immediately de-
spatched in the Starling, to examine it, in the event
of failing to find safe anchorage amongst the low
islands.

On rounding the reefs which break the eastern
swell, everything appeared to favour a convenient
position. Lieutenant Wood was despatched to

1840.] PORT VICTORIA. 79

search for anchorage, but as no bottom under
seventy or eighty fathoms could be obtained free
from danger, and the Starling about the same
time having signalled " the port examined safe,"
our exertions were directed to reach it before dark.
A constant current setting to the N.E., added to
variable squally weather, prevented our reaching a
position before nine o'clock, when we anchored near
the Starling in twenty-five fathoms, mud. Kellett
having anchored her at sunset, with orders to show
a light, joined us to pilot us in.

The morning (27th July) showed us a very snug
and picturesque bay, but heavy rain prevented our
landing until eleven, when a sandy spot on the
north side of the bay was selected as most con-
venient, and commanded by the ship's guns. To
prevent the chance of misunderstanding, a sufficient
force was landed to put anything like opposition out
of the question, and a space soon cleared for our
tents.

The natives, who met us, appeared rather ner-
vous, but very soon recovered their self-possession,
and exhibited more good-humour than the accounts
of previous navigators had led me to expect. They
brought but little to traffic, and appeared to be
impelled more by curiosity than any other motive,
and, although the means were at hand, (by procur-
ing shells and other curiosities,) they could not be
induced to exert themselves, probably fearing to go
too far from their arms, which were no doubt con-

80 COSTUME OF NATIVES. [1840.

cealed in the bush. Their costume was entirely
new to us ; resembling nothing we have seen. The
hair, which is permitted to grow to a great length,
is confined behind by a conical case, having the
crown as its base, and generally tapering at eigh-
teen inches length to three at the point, the hair
curling over. Into this preposterous appendage
they stick their feather ornaments, either birds
of paradise or canes with gaudy feathers of parrots
or other birds neatly worked on, which add about
eighteen inches to the length. They are gene-
rally in a state of nature, but in many cases, parti-
cularly the older people, have a dirty tapa about
their loins. In stature they seldom reach the
height of five feet four inches, and average about
five feet. They are small-limbed, and did not ex-
hibit any symptoms of strength ; and from what we
observed in their dealings, I am inclined to think
them well-tempered.

Their canoes are formed from single trees, with
wash boards brought on very similar to others in
these seas, but the fitting of the outrigger, and a
seat amidships for the person in command, or to
secure their goods from wetting, is very neat and
convenient. It is a raised platform, about six feet
by three, with ornamented sides, &c., about nine
inches.

Our attempts to discover Avhat articles they
prized, or would be tempted to barter for, were en-
tirely ineffectual : they preferred iron, axes, knives.

CindcTi.Heiirv' CoTbum, Great T/farlbtd St. 1843

1840.] STRUCTURE OF CANOES. 81

&c., despised beads, but evinced no particular de-
sire to jjossess anything shown to them. Latterly
they brought some birds of paradise, but they were
indifferent, and I am not aware what was given in
exchange.

The constant showers during the day prevented
our obtaining the necessary data for determining
our position. We were, therefore, compelled to
trust to the stars, the weather generally proving
clear between sunset and two a.m. By midnight
we had completed our observations, and about one
embarked. The natives retired about sunset.

During the day the survey of the bay was com-
pleted. The depths throughout are regular, over a
bottom of tough dark mud, varying from thirty to
nine fathoms, which latter will be found close to
the reefs, which in most places skirt the bay.

Streams of fresh water abound ; that in the bight
at the sandy beach is the best, and it probablt/ runs
at the dry season. On the south side of the bay
a salt thermal spring was noticed, of which the tem-
perature appeared to be nearly at the boiling point ;
it was, however, not strictly tested, our high tempera-
ture thermometer being broken. Wood is everywhere
abundant at the water's edofe.

On the morning of the 28th we quitted this very
snug bay, which (as the first discoveries of these
islands called them Britannia group) I have thought fit
to name " Victoria Bay." This island is the eastern-
most of the group, and I have therefore called it

VOL. II. G

82 THERMAL SPRING. [1840.

Britannia island, and the whole group " the Britannia
Archipelago."

The day proving propitious, our survey was ex-
tended, by which we discovered that many points
which we had mistaken for headlands, &c., lead-
ing into a large river, were the extremities of a
series of islands forming a very extensive archi-
pelago. Eighteen Avere counted from the mast
head, and I have little doubt that further examina-
tion to the southward would have materially in-
creased this number.

The lateness of the season, and our immediate
duty in this neighbourhood, not permitting further
exploration, I was compelled very reluctantly to be sa-
tisfied in effecting only what the progress of our pas-
sage would allow ; and keeping within a short distance
of the land, our head was again directed westerly.*

In natural history our short stay afforded but
trifling scope. Some interesting micoscropic shells
were found in the mud at the anchorage, a few from
the beach, and one new land shell.

The geological composition of the island, as far
as examined, proved to be jasper, but very much
decomposed. The natives appear to take great
pains in clearing and cultivating the land, and
several brilliant green spots relieved the eye from
the sameness of the dull forest tint. Our botanical
collector was as usual indefatigable.

Our course along the land proved tedious, by rea-

* I hope that this portion may hereafter be explored.

^^i^^3^

^KiZ'iii^'^^ ^:^i^1'^C^,^--Q^

loncion^Honr)^ Colbnrn, &ieat Marltro' St. 1843.

1840.] NATURAL HISTORY. 83

son of calms and baffling winds : but aware that the
current in shore was much stronger than out of
soundings, our exertions were directed to keep near
the land, where something very similar to land and
sea breezes occasionally favoured us, but nothing
regular. We did not fairly accomplish our object
until the morning of the 1st, when we commenced
a track survey of the coast, with a light favourable
air, which permitted us to range within one mile of
the coast.

About sunset we found ourselves off a very deep
and extensive inlet, on the outer peninsula (or island)
of which arose several very lofty and remarkable
peaks, frequently hidden by clouds. Nothing of the
kind is apparent on the charts, and the fact of our
being some miles inland, by our latitude and longi-
tude, evinces how little we know of the geographical
features of New Guinea. We were visited by many
natives, from whom we purchased weapons, and
other trifles.

The day following enabled us to add little to the
preceding, the currents having driven us, during the
night, almost out of sight of some of our lofty marks.
At noon we observed within one mile of the eastern-
most of three low islands, 7iine beinof then in siffht :
these were " Los Crespos." By sunset we had
reached the seventh, and tacked off shore for the
night. The wind being light and variable ; we an-
chored between them in thirteen fathoms. Here I

G 2

84 TRAFFIC. [1840.

determined to remain, in order to fix their position,
until noon, when we again moved westerly.

We were visited by great numbers of natives in
canoes from these islands, and so far from displaying
fear or distrust, they were very anxious to persuade me
to land. Had calm prevailed, I most certainly
should have done so. The natives were decidedly
superior to, and entirely different from, those of the
Britannia group. The hair was worn loose, and in
ringlets, some having the minute tails of Tanna.

Each canoe was laden with bows, arrows, cocoa-
nuts, and plantains ; and several plates of tortoiseshell,
which they freely exchanged for bits of iron hoop,
beads, &c. ; but some large blue China beads, which
I had, were singly worth anything offered in the
market. One small blue bead was fixed as the price
of a cocoa-nut. The canoes differ much from any
we have noticed on this coast. They are neatly
built, and short, and seldom contained more than
three persons. The people were good-humoured,
docile, and honest. Many birds of paradise, but
tarnished, were worn as ornaments ; but not brought
for barter. Tortoiseshell was sufficiently abundant
to be worth trading for ; the plates good, and the
demand about six inches of rusty useless hoop, for
each plate. No females were seen.

About noon the breeze favoured us, and having
procured about three hundred cocoa-nuts, and sup-
plies of bananas, &c., and also pretty well filled the

1840.] ISLAND OF ARIMOA. 85

ship with ornaments, bows, arrows, &c., we weighed,
and proceeded for Arinioa, then in sight to the
N. N. E.

From our dealings with these people, who were
probably inhabitants of the neighbouring low
islands, we have every reason to believe them
friendly and well-disposed. They were evidently
in fear, as the slightest noise would instantly cause
them to paddle oft* in alarm. But no disf>ute oc-
curred in their dealings; they were always well
satisfied and good humoured, and invited us to
land. Several cases of disease (apparently leprosy)
were noticed, and many have lost noses, and have
their features otherwise much disfigured.

They chew the betel, with chunam ; smoke their
native tobacco, and wear as ornaments the tusks of
the wild boar. The septum of the nose is per-
forated, through which I noticed (and jDurchased) a
bamboo ornament above one mid a half inches in
diameter. The lobes of the ears were similarly dis-
tended to two inches. They are expert divers,
frequently catching things which fell overboard,
(even beads,) and manage their canoes with great
dexterity. A small canoe which I purchased was
very neatly ornamented by carved figures at each
end. The sail is an oblong mat, very similar to
that in use throughout these seas — probably Malay.
Their bows are very plain, and made of the outer
part of the bamboo ; the arrows from a reed, about

86 NATIVES ALARMED. [1840.

six feet in leng'th, and ornamented by burning with
a hot iron instrument. The string is also of rattan.

The whole of the coast has, I believe, been visited
by D'Urville. They are, without doubt, " Los
Crespos" of the old charts, but the natives call the
island which we anchored off, Yamna, which name
I find is known at Arimoa.

The following morning brought us close up with
the islands of Arimoa, Moa, and Insu, or close
under the south end of the southern Moa. The
weather being hazy, with rain and little wind,
prevented our effecting much of their delineation.
Numerous canoes from Arimoa visited us, and for a
short period trafficked without reserve. Iron hoop
had fallen desperately in value, and nothing but
knives or beads would succeed. The incautious
appearance of a sentinel, with his musket, caused an
immediate panic, which we were unable to dispel ;
and, although compelled by calm to anchor close off
their village, not a soul came off during the remainder
of that day, although they remained in their canoes at
a short distance in shore, laden with cocoa-nuts,
bananas, &c.

From the natives we learned that they acknow-
ledge the names on the charts, with the addition of
the syllable too, as Arimoa-too, Insu-too, Moa-too,
with a perceptible division of the too, as if it im-
plied island.

The articles obtained from these people differed

1840.] WEAPONS. 87

from those of our Yamna friends, their boAvs being
less finished, and arrows not so long. It appears
that each tribe preserves an established length of
this missile.

As our distance from their village enabled us to
S8e their huts and inhabitants very distinctly, by aid
of our telescopes, we were able to make out that
their houses are constructed similarly to those de-
scribed as customary amongst the natives of New
Guinea, viz. the huts are constructed on platforms
elevated on piles about ten or fifteen feet above the
ground. A thatched pitched roof rises direct from,
and overlaps, the platform, (similar to the attic of our
pitched-roofed houses.) It is closed at the ends by
a window, used also for the door, about three feet
square. The ascent is by a ladder or notched post
laid slanting to the window.

The features and structure of this race differed
from those of Yamna. They are more athletic,
appear to possess more determination, as well as
craftiness, and, probably from the fear of firearms,
have had reason to repent some aggressions on a
former visitor, or, equally probable, have been made
to feel the blessings of communicating with white
men who wished to drive their bargains vi et armis.
We had no reason to wish for closer acquaintance
by admitting them on board, and had this been
permitted then it would certainly have been attended
with great caution. They appeared as much afraid
of a telescope as of firearms.

88 HABITATIONS. [1840

As their women and children were plentiful on
the beach, they could have little idea of hostility ;
and from this circumstance, I am inclined to sus-
pect them the injured instead of the aggressing
])arty.

We were afforded an opportunity of observing
that the females are clothed similarly to those in the
neighbouring islands, viz. by a matted fringe from
the hips to the knees.

Finding our neighbours still disposed to keep
aloof, Ave warped to the edge of the reef, and Avith
a light air cleared the island during the night ; but
anchored a short distance to the AvestAvard, A\4iere
we remained until after noon the day folloAving, in
order to effectually fix the position of the island.
Our anchorage Avas in eleven fathoms, mud, twelve
miles at least from the nearest land.

From the point off A\diicli these islands are situated
the coast appears to undergo an immediate change
to a low SAA'ampy mangroA^e archipelago ; the nu-
merous gaps being either the channels betAveen
them, or the mouths of large streams. The fact of
many being islands Avas fully proved by observation,
at their termination in the great northern gulf I
have little doubt also that large estuaries or rivers
contribute to form the great mud flat AA^hich extends
to such a distance from the land, as very strong
currents Avere experienced, and many floating-
masses torn from the land (containing whole palm-
trees) indicated more than mere tidal action.

1840.] FLOATING ISLANDS. 89

On the afternoon of the 6th of August we moved
Avith a light air and current from the eastward ; and
the Avater continuing to decrease, hauled off, until
we reached fifteen fathoms. Much to our astonish-
ment, several strange sail were reported, and they
raj^idly increased to a fleet, as we imagined, of canoes.

Having, however, directed our course towards the
nearest, we grazed it sufficiently to sweep our
copper well, as it proved a large peat island, with a
palm bush.

Several sea-snakes were observed, differing from
those generally noticed, and one taken in the trawl
was preserved. A rare nondescript shell also taken.

The openings in the coast became more numerous,
and left little doubt that our pigmy fleet resulted
from the islands abreast of us. The depth at eight or
nine miles fi-om the land being only nine fathoms,
prevented our making any close examination of the
coast, and at dark we dropped anchor for the night.

In the morning we resumed our course, and
succeeded in detaching several of the western group
of islands, which at length showed us a passage be-
tween the westernmost, and what we assumed^ to be
the island of Jobie on the charts.

Through this channel a strong tide set against us,
compelling us again to drop anchor. Many canoes
came off from the low islands near us, on which we
could discern several villages, the houses, however, ex-
hibiting red roofs, which, from the material employed

* Assumed, nothing like the chart.

90 CANOES AND WEAPONS OF NATIVES. [1840.

for the construction of their buckets, I suspect to
be the palm-sheath, of which several neat little
buckets, which we obtained, were constructed.

The natives of these islands were superior in fea-
tures, cleanliness, &c., to any who had yet visited
us. Their canoes were better finished, their wea-
pons more numerous, and the numbers in each
occasionally amounted to eighteen. They wero'
furnished with double outriggers, and set their
mat sail, sheer fashion, on a tripod, serving for stay
as well as rigging : masts, therefore, they had not.

Their arrows were invariably three feet in length, as
if bi/ law. The bows were rough, but strong and
serviceable. They were not intimidated by firearms,
excepting the first single canoe which visited us, pro-
bably to report. They even came on board by
the quarters without invitation, although they
could not be persuaded to come alongside to traf-
fic. This evinced some little knowledge of war
tactics. We noticed that in their apj)roach they
observed a very ceremonious distance and pace
in passing the broadside, but on completing the
circuit as far as the quarter, pulled up for the stern.
They were evidently aware of the use of the ports,
as well as the destructive engines concealed within,
and that the quarter was the weakest point.

In their traflUc they evinced more than usual
knowledge of useful articles, and plainly intimated
that knives or cloth must be the trading medium.
We obtained but little from them in return, but

1840.] COSTUME OF NATIVES. 91

bows, arrows, a few birds of paradise, and ba-
nanas.

The head costume differs from those previously
seen. The hair is well combed, and drawn through
ornamented tubes of bamboo, about one inch
and a half in diameter by four in length. In one
instance a very fine well-featured lad, apparently a
dandy in his way, had five of these ornaments,
although they were seldom observed with more
than two. A peculiar comb, like a toasting fork,
having a pendant at its extremity, is stuck in the
coronal tuft, and projects in front about two feet,
standing, when the body and head is erect, about
ten inches above the line of the eyebrows.

They were apparently under control of a chief
who was present, though we could not ascertain
which was he. They were very good-tempered,
and anxious that we should visit their towns. In
build, manners, &c., they were of a superior cast ;
the features of some of them, particularly those
from eighteen to twenty-five, being remarkably
handsome, and of a light copper colour. The elders
were fine healthy pleasant featured and vigorous
men. Apparently, they were above cunning, and
were quite independent in their manner. They
have evidently been accustomed to visits from
Europeans ; as they displayed iron, steel, and cloths,
and perfectly comprehended that our colours were
English.

About two o'clock, the tide having changed, and

92 ANCHOR OFF JOBIE. [1840.

brought a breeze from S.E., we weighed, and steered
through the passage between the western low island
and Jobie, the water deepening as we entered the
channel (which is about three miles wide) to thirty-
six fathoms.

Having hauled to the westward for the night, we
were visited by heavy rain, thunder, and lightning,
which lasted until daylight, when I transferred my-
self to the Starling, in order to seek for convenient
anchorage, as well as a good position for rating the
chronometers.

Fortunately we picked up a very snug berth, in
time to save our observations, and fixed upon a
detached limestone clump, half a mile from the
main island, completely adapted for our magnetic
observations. The ship anchored within hail, in
nineteen fathoms, tough clay.

The size and detached position of our rock pre-
vented the chance of molestation from visitors, as
not more than ourselves and instruments could find
footing.

The natives came off to the vicinity of our posi-
tion, but giving them to understand that we could
not have any communication with them, they quietly
retired to the nearest beach, apparently awaiting
our pleasure. At sunset, finding that we still re-
mained in the same mood, they retired.

The canoes of this party, which I shall term
"state canoes," and which were probably only in-
tended for the inner waters, differed essentially

:!\

1840.] STATE CANOES. 93

from those seen the day before. These were of two
kinds, one intended for extensive fishing, and with
trifling ornament ; the other entirely state, and gor-
geously ornamented in sculpture at the stern, which
was further decorated by jDlumes of birds of paradise.
This latter had a kind of frame work, which could
be immediately converted into a house, by mats there
in readiness, and I am inclined to believe they
generally sleep in them in preference to landing.

We landed on the day following at the beach,
where they had remained, and examined the woods
in the immediate neighbourhood. We noticed
several very peculiar piles of earth and leaves re-
sembling tumuli, but were unable to trace their
purpose.

Having completed our suite of observations, I
determined, during our delay for rating the chrono-
meters, to take advantage of the interval to correct
this almost unknown region, and with our reduced
force, we commenced the survey.

In the progress of this duty, which lasted about
a week, and extended over eighty miles of longitude,
we found the island which the natives pronounce
Jobie, cut into deep creeks, and at twenty miles
west of our rating position, formed into numerous
harbours by a very extensive archipelago. In the
interior, bays were observed, and several very large
towns built on posts as before described, but much
higher, and apparently so combined as to present
a formidable defence to an attacking party. Many

94 NATURAL HISTORY. [1840.

of the interior spots were cultivated, and the plan-
tains and other trees we observed, showed them
to be well supplied. Owing to their being warned
off by a musket fired over them to prevent their
stealing' our marks, we had little or no communica-
tion with them, although several which visited the
Starling at one of the out positions, gave them to
understand that hogs, fruit, and the potatoe yam
(of the Feejees) were abundant.

Amongst the feathered tribe a very trifling addi-
tion was made to our collection, probably owing
to our not having sufficient leisure to penetrate into
the interior, but a very beautiful cream-coloured
pigeon,* was very abundant. A very curious spe-
cies of a bat or flying fox, parroquets, &c., were in-
numerable, but difficult to obtain, as they main-
tained their perch on the loftiest trees, nearly on
the summits of the island.

Amongst the trees, several kinds of nutmeg were
found, and these appear to abound on the main
island, if we may judge from the roosting places of
the pigeons, the ground beneath which was literally
covered with the nuts which they had voided, as
they merely feed on the outer fleshy covering. All
the islands are thickly wooded, and afford excellent
fuel. The Tamanu, ebony, and other hard cabinet
woods, were noticed ; the lance wood of the South
Seas (Casuarina equisetifolia) we cut for firewood,
handspikes, and many useful purposes.

* The nutmeg pigeon.

1840.] QUIT JOBIE. 95

The reefs which generally belt these islands are
well stocked with a great variety of shell-fish, some
well worthy the attention of the naturalist.

During our detention in this region, scarcely a
day passed without a cojDious fall of rain, at times
almost a deluge. The daily breezes were irregular,
frequently from the south-west ; and the scud aloft
generally travelled from that point.

On the 16th August, having completed the rating
of our chronometers, we recommenced our voyage,
but were again teazed by our old enemies, calms,
variables, and rain, which prevented our making
more than twenty or thirty miles a-day. I fully
expected that on clearing the high lands of Jobie,
the customary trades, or sea-breezes, might reach
us. In this we were disappointed, until passing what
we took to be the island of Bultige.

On the 21st we arrived at the termination of
this group, forming a complete cluster of twenty-two
small islets, rising from the same rocky flat, and pro-
bably at spring-tides nearly dry. As the Starling lost
the breeze before reaching the passage, I deter-
mined on attempting a final suite of observations
at these islands, but after landing and waiting a consi-
derable time, rain entirely frustrated our endeavours.

It is a curious fact, that from the time of passing
Yamna, until the present, not the slightest swell
has been perceptible, the ripples on the weather
sides of reefs not even endangering the bottoms of our
light boats : a perfect still water has prevailed.

9G PASS GOELVINKS BAY. [1840.

On the 22iicl, we passed on the eastern side of
Long Island of Maclure, our position by latitude
and bearing of Mysory proving his survey relativelij
correct, but about thirty miles of longitude in
error. Several deep indentations presented them-
selves in Long Island, and I have little doubt but
good harbours would be found within ; but no traces
of inhabitants w^ere discernible, although Maclure
places a village where we must have noticed it, had
it at present existed. It is probably deserted.

On the morning of 23rd the mainland of New
Guinea was ahead, and with a light breeze we
shaped our course for " the Beehive," then in sight,
hoping to reach Goelvinks Bay before sunset ; but
with such imperfect charts, this could only be at a
guess.

At noon, our longitude placed us exactly at its
entrance, but it was evident from our distance from
the Beehive, that it was still at least twenty miles
further to the westward.

About four o'clock, we passed its probable situa-
tion, but as no convenient opening presented, and
nothing which I could at all assimilate to the de-
scription of Goelvinks Bay, I passed on, hoping to
meet with some favourable position. In this I was
entirely disappointed, and therefore made up my
mind to terminate my observations on this coast
at the island of Amsterdam, its position having
already been determined by chronometers from Point
Pigot, as well as Amboyna.

1840.] ANCHOR AT AMSTERDAM. 97

The features of New Guinea now resumed their
bold outhne, which failed about Yamna ; and " Trees
Cape," (which certainly deserves a better name, and
was mistaken for Cape Good Hope,) was passed
on the evening of the 24th.

We then found that another low cape showed on
the same bearing, which being more westerly, could
be no other than Cape Good Hope.

During our run along the last forty miles of coast,
and not more than two miles from the shore, but
three villages were noticed, and no disposition
evinced to put off in their canoes. Indeed, but
one or two natives were observed, the remainder,
probably from fear, or employment, being absent
in the mountains, from whence many columns of
smoke were observed to issue.

On the morning of the 23rd, we had neared
the islands of Amsterdam and Middleburg, suffi-
ciently to proceed in the boats, the wind having
nearly failed. We first directed our course towards
the northern sandy point of Amsterdam, but on
nearing it, found it to be dead low water, with
a heavy surf setting on a rocky barrier, which pre-
vented access. Contrary, however, to the descrip-
tion, we found the soundings regular, as the bottom
could be plainly traced from a cable's length from
the breakers.

On rounding the eastern end by the channel
between the islands, we found safe and convenient
landing on a clear sandy beach, within the eastern

VOL. II. H

98 PERIODICAL RAIN [1840.

point of Amsterdam. The cliamiel bet\yeen the
islands is safe, and instead of seventeen or eighteen
feet^ read seventeen or eighteen ya//^owi^.

After completing a suite of magnetic as well as
astronomical observations, and surveying the two
islands, we bore up at sunset for Point Pigot, the
evening terminating with thunder, lightning, and
rain.

We have observed, that in the mornings before
sunrise all the outlines of the mountains and dis-
tant land are beautifully distinct and free from
haze. As the sun rises, vapour is generated, and
they become less distinct. By nine o'clock clouds
form over the mountainous peaks, and shortly cap
them ; thunder (which, by-the-bye, is almost in-
cessant) is distinctly heard. By four o'clock the
clouds have accumulated into a dense black mass ;
and from this time until eight p.m., they pour down
their contents at intervals, with unsparing volume.
About eight the clouds suddenly disperse, and the
spangled arch is free even from scud.

It is also a curious fact, that before the clouds
exhibit any apparent discharge of rain, small white
vaj)Ours resembling steam-clouds arise from the
valleys and woods, and mingle with the black mass
gathering above them, becoming more dense, and
increasing in rapidity, as they approach near the
clouds.

This, doubtless, results from the sudden conden-
sation of the vapour arising from the earth, pre-

1840.] DESCRIPTION OF AMSTERDAM. 99

vioiisly heated by the sun's rays. Yet this latter
phenomenon is more frequently observed, and in
greater volume, after long continued rain, at the
moment of clearing off, although no sun is visible.
At New Ireland it was perpetual, and resembled
smoke issuing from the forests.

In these regions one may therefore calculate on
a sound drenching once every twenty-four hours, if
within twenty miles of high land.

Nothing of interest occurred at these islands.
They are mere coral patches, having about ten feet
soil above the sea level, and are well clothed with
tall trees, similar to the main island. The natives
came off in their canoes to the Starling, and one
uncouth Noah's ark went off to the ship, but did not
communicate.

In the account of these islands, they are described
as two low flat islands surrounded by a reef, and
about two or two and a half leagues from the coast ;
the reef projecting from Amsterdam, " steep to,''
having fifty fathoms near, and four or five feet on
it in some places.

From our examination it will appear that these
islands are distinctly separate, the depth between
them ranging gradually from five to thirty-five
fathoms mid channel ; that the soundings approach-
ing them are regular from one hundred fathoms from
the reef; and that in a south-east direction from
the eastern sandy point of Amsterdam, good tough
holding ground, in mud, may be found from twenty

H 2

100 dampier's strait. [1840.

to thirty fathoms. The Starling anchored in twenty-
eight fathoms mud, 2',? miles from the point.

The inner point of Middleburg is more than
two miles from the coast.

Wood for fuel is plentiful, and tamanu of large
size overhangs the water.

On the morning of the 26th, we found ourselves at
the mouth of Dampier's Strait, but the breeze prov-
ing light, did not succeed in getting abreast of
Point Pigot before eight in the evening. Our noon
position showed the charts to be defective, the
whole eastern side of Waygiou forming a deep
and extensive bay, and our latitude being much to
the southward of Point Pigot, although its island
bore to the southward of west from us. With
respect to the current also, we were much disap-
pointed, not having experienced its action during
the whole day.

We noticed an extensive line of sand banks
between Point Pigot and the south-eastern point
of Waygiou, which, although of interest to the sur-
veyor, are too close in to cause uneasiness to the
navigator.

About eight p. m., we took a fine breeze from
S. S. E., which helped us for a few hours, carry-
ing us past the islands off Cape Pigot. At four in
the morning we found ourselves close to two low
islands, and as I conjectured them to be the " Foul
Islands," the ship was tacked until daylight, when
my suspicions were confirmed. We had no sound-

1840.] LAND ON PIGEON ISLAND. 101

ings, with one hundred fathoms, but could hear the
surf sound very distinctly. The line of current was
now very distinctly apparent on the surface, and
with a light air from south-east, we edged over for
Pigeon Island, for the purpose of fixing one decided
position in this strait, as well as to obtain the exact
time of high water ; this being the change of the
moon. The stream anchor was dropj^ed, and means
taken to avail ourselves of every advantage during
our necessary delay.

Our observations haAdng been completed, and a
rough survey made, we embarked about three, when
the anchor was weighed, but the flood-tide having
made too strong for the breeze, compelled us to
anchor again until slack water.

Our observations disagree very materially with the
charts. The relative position of the islands is also
very erroneous, our rough survey having narrowed
the channel several miles.

Pigeon Island is a mere strip of land, surrounded
by a coral ledge. Landing is easily effected at half-
tide, on the S.W. point : but at low water, springs,
the waterline shows a steep coral belt, having some
inches water within, over sand and coral, for a cable's
length.

The island is pretty well wooded, the whole of the
S.W. point alluded to abounds with theCasuarina equi-
setifolia, or Ito of Sandwich Islands, Tahiti, &c., or
commonly termed "iron- wood." It is difficult to
cut when of large growth, and dry ; but in its green

102 VISITED BY CHIEF OF GEBY. [1840.

state not more so than other hard woods. It forms
excellent fuel, and does not ferment in the hold, an
evil to be cautiously avoided in tropical regions : I
strongly suspect the mangrove, and I placed great
faith in keeping my ship clear from fever on the
coast of Africa, by never admitting green wood, or
that with the bark moist.

We found it low water precisely at noon, and
from the rapidity with which the tide flowed, as well
as the current slackening off, I presume that it was
high water about six p. m. At ten the breeze en-
abled us to weigh, and after our usual dose of rain,
and et ceteras, we cleared the straits in the morning.

During our detention we were visited by several
canoes, and one state canoe, having on board a per-
son styling himself Captain of Gibbie, probably the
island of Geby, or Ghibi, of the charts. He was
Avell attired in oriental costume, spoke English tole-
rably, and informed us that in one moon, many ships
of several nations would visit his island. He was
very anxious that the ship should proceed there, where
she would obtain supplies of vegetables and fruit.

During my conversation with this individual, I was
rather surprised to hear him designate his people
Papoos, and upon my questioning him whether they
belonged to New Guinea, he explained that the lower
order of Ghibi, Battanta, and others, were designated
Papoos, but which had no connexion with the " Great
Island" of New Guinea. I have since been informed
that they are of the same race.

1840.] DESCRIPTION OF GEBY PRAHU. 103

The vessel in which this person came was one of
the regularly built prahus, or prau, (not a canoe,)
but furnished \\ith outriggers, and stages for those
working the oars. She carried banners, and assumed
some little state. Her stem was precisely in 'the
Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian style — rising high,
with a nob. We had some difficulty, at first, in
dealing with this person, who was either unwilling to
trade, or waiting for a present. We succeeded in
obtaining several very handsome lories alive, and a few
birds of paradise, mats, &c. He did not consider the
fine season as set in until next moon. His " fine sea-
son" probably reckoned by the number of whale-ships
and visitors who take this route in the S. W. monsoon.

A fine breeze led us up to the island of Pulo Popa,
which we cleared after a short tack. The Full and
Change, hitherto, has been attended with rain and
unsettled weather at this season, which the last
twenty-four hours has fully corroborated.

On the morning of the 28th August, as the rain
cleared off, we found ourselves close off the coast of
Ceram. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
and now, for the first time for many months, we beheld
clear spots of park land, studded with a moderate
proportion of trees. Of late nothing but the sombre
sameness of dingy forest had met the eye, and grada-
tion of shade, betwixt hill and ravine, afforded the
only variation in the landscape. Here we had not
only the varied yellow, brown, or green, of the clear
lands or meadows, but every other forest tint ; above

104 PASS ISLAND OF CERAM. [1840.

which beetling peaks, Avith their white weather-worn
lines, occasionally peeped through the misty clouds,
which but a few hours since had entirely eclipsed
them, and shortly floated over their summits, merely
to add fresh spirit to the scenery by their shadows.
There is something more than ordinarily interesting
in the rapid changes of scenery w^hich the seaman
witnesses ; point after point opening and displaying
bays, harbours, huts, natives, &c.

We had now, however, arrived within the range of
civilization, and the sight of a vessel was an occur-
rence too ordinary to cause any of the natives to visit
us in their canoes. Having reached within two
miles of the beach, we took the fresh trade, or pro-
bably sea-breeze, which by sunset carried us well
clear of the Island of Ceram, (pronounced Cee-ram.)

As it was important to reach the nearest port, in
order to save the meridian distance, I determined
to stand on for Cajeli Bay, Bouro, and therefore
signalled the Starling " to make the best of her way
to Amboina," where she would prepare the governor
for my arrival, and remove the difficulty of obtaining
immediate observations.

At daylight we were well in with the island of
Bouro, but too far to the southward. Horsburgh's
directions are not sufficiently explicit for finding
Cajeli Bay. He should have explained that " Mother
and Daughter," (the latter might have been omitted,
as only seen when well into the depth of the bay,)
are two very high conical hills inland, which from

1840.] MOTHER AND DAUGHTER. 105

the sea appear as one. The eastern side is streaked
white, by reason of its bare rocks. It lies on the S.E*
side of the depth of Cajeli Bay, and is an excellent
mark for rounding the eastern head, from the S. E.
As long as its head can be seen above the trees at
the eastern point, the ship will be perfectly clear of
danger. The instant it begins to rise, after passing
the point, a course may be shaped for the north point,
which apparently shows as the left of an island on
the N.W. shore. When mid-channel, steer with
the town off the larboard cathead, until Mother bears
S. E. by S. Then steer south for the fort ; shorten
sail about one mile fi-om it, and anchor at the first
cast tw^enty-five, bottom mud, and good holding
ground.

The limit of danger, westerly, is the two eastern
turrets of the fort in line. We found soundings in every
part of the bay, both going in and coming out ; on the
latter occasion, it never exceeded fifty fathoms, until we
hauled up E.N.E. Entering, it ranged from sixty-
two, forty-two, and sixty, gravel. It frequently falls to
our fate to enter ports at night, and on this occasion
we did not reach our anchorage until three a.m., on
the 31st., in twenty-five fathoms. Fort south. Red
Island East.

I paid a visit to the " resident," who was rather
surprised at a visit from a British man-of-war, with
out the customary notice from the governor of
the Moluccas. Indeed, he scarcely comprehended

106 CAJELI BAY. [1840.

the difference between a ship of war and a mer-
chantman, and could not be made to comprehend
that our visit was merely to look at ''^his sun, moony
and stars."

CHAPTER IV.

Amboina — Flattering reception by the governor — The rajahs —
Visit a cavern — Mode of travelhng — Grotesque attendants —
Society — Fishing trammels —Chinese town — Garrison — Capa-
bilities and government of the island — Return to Bouro —
Cajeli Bay examined — Passage to Celebes, Macassar — Fort—
Situation of the Dutch — Solombo — Pulo Kumpal — Singapore
— Receive orders to proceed to China — Prosperous state of
Singapore — Palawan passage — Starling struck by lightning
— Manila — Transports with invalids — Indisposition of the au-
thorities towards them — Join the squadron at Chuenpee.

108 ANCHOK AT AMBOINA. [1840.

CHAPTER IV.

About four o'clock on the 1st of September, hav-
ing completed our observations, we quitted Cajeli
Bay for Amboina. The current at ebb sets very
strong to the southward, so that, by keeping in the
strength of the stream during the night, we found
ourselves well to windward of the island of Amblau
by daylight.

At dawn on the 3rd, we were close off Noessaniva
Point, and, favoured with a light easterly breeze, we
soon rejoined the Starling, and found two Dutch
Company's brigs at anchor within. We dropped
anchor close to the westernmost, in twenty fathoms.
It is customary to run the stream cable to the
shore, in case of strong puffs off shore, and for this
purpose, heavy anchors are already laid down, to
which cables can be attached at low water.

Accompanied by my friend Kellett, I proceeded
immediately to call on the governor of the Moluc-
cas, Colonel de Stuers, who resides at a very de-
lightful spot about half a mile from the town. My
reception was highly flattering, and was immediately

1840.] ANCHOR AT AMBOINA. 109

followed by permission to place my observatory
where I pleased, and the requisite orders were im-
mediately issued. After examining the governor's
magnificent collection of shells, insects, and other
objects of natural history, we took our leave until
the dinner hour.

The position selected for our observations was on
the S.W. angle of the curtain of Fort Victoria,
where a summer house, constructed for taking tea
and smoking, very conveniently afforded shelter, with-
out the trouble of erecting tents. Occasionally the
passing of the natives jarred the ground slightly;
but whether by the order of his excellency, or a
proper consideration on the part of the officers, we
were entirely free from visitors during the progress
of our observations. Those not interested in or
comprehending such duties, cannot but feel that
we are unwelcome guests whilst we are thus en-
gaged. The inattention to questions, and the per-
fect abstraction necessary for a portion of time, must
appear almost as a slight on their intended courtesy.
Yet, if they could but comprehend the value we
attach to time, they would clearly feel the pro-
priety of allowing us to enjoy our hermitage.

At six the Governor sent his carriage for us, and
we repaired to his beautiful retirement, where we
were introduced to Madame de Stuers. Once more
we congratulated ourselves on regaining society,
from which, excepting a few short moments at Tepic,
Sitka, and Lima, we had been almost excluded since
1836.

110 GOVERNOR OF THE MOLUCCAS. [1840.

The governor and Madame both sjDeak English
well, and were unremitting in their polite attentions.
They are both strongly imbued with the taste for
natural history, and appear to enjoy perfect happi-
ness, even in this distant region, by constant applica-
tion to rational pursuits. They have a line healthy
and beautiful family, consisting of three boys and
three girls, the eldest boy being about ten years old.
Madame is the daughter of General de Kock, now
minister of the interior in Holland, and formerly
e-overnor-gfeneral at Java, where I believe madame
was born. It is, therefore, surprising that she does
not, according to the custom of India, give way to
the habit of consuming the greater part of the day in
the siesta, which I believe to be very enervating.
Activity appears to be their motto, and blooming
health results.

On their passage hither in a steamer they were
wrecked upon the Turtle Islands, near Goonong
Apee, not more than a hundred and tAventy miles
from their destination. There they experienced
great hardships, and probably would have perished,
had not one of the boats reached Timor or Java,
and brought them assistance. Another boat fell
into the hands of the pirates, but the crew were
eventually recovered by ransom.

At the period of our visit the rajahs from the
neio-hbouring islands had assembled at Amboina, to
try their disputes, for which purpose the governor
presides in court twice in the year. The court is

1840.] COURT OF RAJAHS. Ill

composed of the president, assisted by twenty-four
rajahs ; the cause is heard before them, and the
law explained, so that the award is nearly the act of
their own body. I was informed that it is a very
tedious operation to make them understand the
law, or be convinced (probably against their will) of
its infallibility. After the third day, on which the
business terminated, the governor, according to cus-
tom, gave the rajahs an entertainment, to which my
officers and self were invited. I fully expected to have
seen all the rajahs in splendid costumes, but the
greater part of them were dressed as Europeans, and
had nothing in particular to distinguish them from
the general residents. After dinner their healths
were drunk, and " success to their clove planta-
tions."

The governor was kind enough to make a party
the following morning to visit a cavern in the moun-
tains, as well as afford us a sample of the style in
which he travels in these regions. At six o'clock
his carriage conveyed us to his house, where a host
of natives with open palanquins were assembled.
During the delay of taking coffee, a band of seven
grotesquely dressed men, with swords and shields,
birds'-head helmets, adorned with the feathers of
the cock, or birds of paradise, (very much in the
merry-andrew style observed at our fairs in Eng-
land,) danced to the sound of a drum and gong,
keeping excellent time, and imitating the attack and
defence of w^ar parties; intimating that your ad-

112 VISIT THE CAVERN. [1840.

vance was opposed until their ceremony or mode of
salute was complete.

Having mounted our palanquins, to each of which
twelve bearers were appointed, the band and dancers,
preceded by two Dutch ensigns, led the way. Our
journey lay over very slippery ground, it having
rained hard all the preceding night, and some of the
steeps were so very rugged, that one could with
difficulty keep his seat in the palanquin. Some of
the party got out and walked, an example which I
felt much inclined to follow, but as the governor
remained seated, I considered it etiquette to main-
tain my state, even at the risk of my bones.

At every hundred yards, or probably at such
intervals as the leader of the band considered the
bearers out of wind, the dancing guard obstructed
our progress until their fantastic ceremony was
complete.

We enjoyed several very beautiful prospects from
the heights, which probably would have been still
more brilliant had the sun favoured us. But we
could well spare his presence, and enjoyed the cool
fresh air resulting from the late showers infinitely
more than the steam heat which his rays would in-
evitably have produced.

About half-past seven we reached the mouth of
the cavern, which the rajah of the district had
already prepared for our entry, by a range of stakes
forming steps down the first steep descent. The
depth was not great, nor from the nature of the
10

1840.] VISIT CAVE. 113

soil was there much stalactitic concretion. Bats
were numerous, as well as crustaceous spiders, and
crickets of a curious kind. The swallows which
construct the nidi esculenti, or edible birds' nests,
were here uninterrupted. I obtained one, however,
as a specimen, but it had but little of the glutinous
matter with which it is attached to the sides or roof
of the cavern. At the extremity of the cave we
found a marble tablet noting the visit of Captain
D'Ur\ille, commanding the expedition of the Astro-
labe and Zelee, which was placed there by the fiscal
or chief magistrate.

Our return was much in the same style ; when, hav-
ing breakfasted at the governor's, we returned to the
ship. In the evening we rejoined the governor's
party at a ball, where we saw all the youth and beauty
of the colony, and waltzing and quadrilles were main-
tained with great spirit until a late hour. With the
exception of four or five, all the young ladies were
born of native mothers, or of native extraction, in
the colony. Of the whole collection not an or-
dinary face was visible ; all were pretty, several very
handsome.

The attentions of our kind host and hostess were
unremitting. Indeed, from the moment of arrival
until we took our final leave, hardly an hour elapsed
without increasing our debt of gratitude. All our
establishment have felt the kindness of our warm-
hearted friends at Amboina, and I am satisfied will

VOL. II. I

114 FISHING TRAMMELS. [1840.

not easily forget them. Deprived of society for
such a period, it has been to us quite a paradise.

The roads in the neighbourhood of the town are
in admirable order, and afford several very pleasant
rides. I accompanied the governor to examine one
of their fishing trammels at his sea-side cottage,
which is situated about two miles fi-om the fort.
The manner of construction is ingenious. Stakes
are driven into the ground in the figure of a broad
arrow, the barbs incurved to half their length.

The apex is formed similar to a mouse-trap. This
is surmounted by three others ; that outside being
the preserve. All the barbs are fitted with hinges, by
which the angular aperture can be closed at the plea-
sure of the person on watch, who generally lives on the
stage in "Jack-straw's house." The outer preserve
is generally in three fathoms water, and the upper
frame-work weighted with stones to prevent its
rising. All the walls are even, constructed of slight
bamboo, with half-inch openings.

To take the fish, the outer doors are all secured ;
a diver descends with a landing net, and first
frightens the fish from the bottom. Then looking
upwards, as his buoyancy causes him to ascend
easily, he dexterously uses his net to take those at
the surface, which are completely bewildered.

The horses in use here are small, but well-limbed,
and very strong. The governor was kind enough
to send his carriage for us on all occasions, and

1840.] CHINESE POPULATION. 115

althouo'h the little animals were not taller than
Scotch ponies, they carried four inside and three
servants outside at a rapid rate.

The town of Amboina contains a large number of
Chinese, who reside principally in the western quar-
ter, where a very large and well stocked market
furnishes most of the luxuries as well as the neces-
saries of this climate. The race, however, do not
appear to maintain the high character they have for
industry in other parts of the world ; possibly the
laws restrain them from indulging in such specula-
tions as they would prefer. I was rather disap-
pointed, therefore, in not finding their shops well
stored, forgetting their limited communication with
their own country.

Amboina is garrisoned by companies, partly Dutch
partly Malay, commanded by a lieutenant-colonel,
who keeps them actively drilled every morning at
six, and frequently in the evenings. Their appear-
ance speaks for their health. In the evening the officers
amuse themselves at the club with billiards, cards,
&c. They are required to serve a certain number
of years before they are entitled to a pension, and
no officer is permitted to marry, unless he can give
security that himself and his intended possess enough
to maintain them respectably.

The brig of war mounts twenty thirty-two pounders,
upon very small tonnage, but appears to be kept in very
creditable kelter. The European part of her crew
are preserved from undue exposure by part comple-

I 2

116 DUTCH VESSEL OF WAR. [1840.

ment of Malays, who perform wooding, watering,
and other heavy duties, similar to our Krou-men on
the coast of Africa. Our officers received much
attention from the army and navy ; indeed, from the
governor downwards we were to all deeply indebted.

The governor having accepted an invitation to a
second breakfast, accompanied me in my gig, in full
uniform ; the Starling having been ordered to hoist
the Dutch national colours, fired the necessary salutes
to the flag, as well as personal salute. His own
state barge, however, was in waiting, a splendid kind
of " city barge," manned by Malays, and decorated
with three large Dutch ensigns. The lieutenant-
colonel, chief magistrate, suite, &c., came off in
her.

Owing to the tie of observations, chronometers,
&c., I was unable to spare time to visit the clove
gardens, or make any protracted excursion into the
country, which was several times proposed by my kind
friend, the governor. The nutmeg trees are very com-
mon, and produce abundantly, but the fruit is inferior to
that of Banda, not yielding the same quantity of oil,
which in the Chinese market is important. The
natives manufacture various ornamental articles, as
work-boxes, urns, prahus, &c., from the clove ; and
the native-born young ladies occupy their leisure
hours in making fancy flowers from the feathers of
the numerous parroquets, lories, and other gaudy-
plumaged birds with which these islands abound.
Amboina, although not yielding plentifully from its

1840.] NECK OF LAND. 117

own harbour, is the nucleus where the shells from
the Moluccas are usually assembled, and where they
generally find a good market. The islands of
Ceram and Goram appear to contribute not only
largely, but also the greater number of rare shells.
The island of Amboina itself presents one of na-
ture's freaks, being almost divided at its northern
end. At one period the Dutch attempted to cut a
passage through, and in part succeeded. This has
been partially filled up, although I am given to
understand that at present the large prahus are
floated and carried across, so as to prevent the
necessity of going out by Noessaniva, when bound
to Ceram.

The Dutch maintain their sway over the island of
Ceram ; have forts established on it ; and by the
ceremony before alluded to, viz. the biennial visit to
decide their legal differences before the governor at
Amboina, the natives distinctly acknowledge their su-
premacy. Gillolo, Ternate, and Tidore, are subject to
the Sultan of Tidore, who, I am given to understand,
is in turn, either subject to, or under more than close
alliance with, the Dutch government. All these
islands, including the Banda group, Manada, (on
Celebes,) Mindanao, Oby Major, and a few settle-
ments on the shores of New Guinea, are under the
authority and surveillance of the governor of the
MoUuccas, who usually makes his annual tour of
inspection, when I understand he is well received.
Indeed, we ourselves witnessed the attachment ex-
pressed by those assembled here.

118 SAGO TREE. [1840.

According to custom in all semi-civilized nations,
wherever food is spontaneously produced, there is
but little disposition to labour. The sago-tree,
which at Amboina, Bouro, Ceram, and adjacent
islands, grows must luxuriantly and attains a large
size, (eighteen inches diameter,) is calculated to sub-
sist a family for one month, or even six weeks. The
tree being felled, is secured in a horizontal position,
and an opening being cut on its ujjper surface, the
centre, which is about eight-tenths of the capacity,
is scooped out as required.

Plantations, gardens, &c., flourish ; and nothing
but the desire of gain, or of being in a condition to
assume the European garb, can excite the natives to
labour. The cultivation of the patches awarded by
government is kept up by a kind of tax on tenure,
and these are guaranteed by responsible rajahs.

Amongst the many presents constantly arriving
from my kind friend, I cannot omit to mention that
important addition to our zoological collection, the
Babyroussa hog ; which, from its docility and hav-
ing been reared from young, promised to see Eng-
land safe ; unless indeed poisoned by eating anything
that fell in his way amongst his epicurean re-
searches. Six lories, and as many marine's shoulder
and cap scales, (of brass,) did not in the least impede
digestion. He eventually reached England, and I
believe is now happy in the Zoological Gardens.

Having completed our necessary refit, &c., we
took leave of our kind friends at Amboina on the

1840.] REVISIT BOURO. 119

13th of September, and directed our course for
Bouro, to take a fresh departure, as well as obtain a
sea-rate for our chronometers from our absolute
meridian. I was anxious also to examine the dan-
gers of Cajeli Bay, and either dispel them, or put
them into some tangible form on paper.

On the night following (about two a. M.) I an-
chored in the bay, much to the surprise of our
Dutch friend " the resident," (a clerk,) who I believe
thought us little better than mad. During the in-
terval occupied in obtaining our necessary observa-
tions, a fair survey of the bay was completed, cer-
tainly outlining the important danger line, to vessels
wishing to visit the bay. On the 16th we quitted
Cajeli Bay, and hauled to the southward, in prefer-
ence to risking the calms which generally prevail at
this season on the northern or lee side of Bouro.*

Bouro, or Cajeli Bay, possesses great advantages
over Amboina, as regards supplies of poultry, eggs,
water, and wood. The harbour also is snug and
safe, sheltered from the monsoons, and less troubled
with the diurnal rains of Amboina, consequently
better adapted for casual refit, as well as astronomical
observations. As regards natural history also, it af-
fords a wider field, particularly in conchology. The
famed Babyroussa hog abounds on this island, al-
though very difficult to obtain. Deer are plentiful
in the interior, and birds unknown to the Dutch
residents are frequently spoken of by the natives.
* Also spelt Boeroa.

120 CAJEPUT OIL. [1840.

A great variety of very beautiful woods, adapted
for cabinet purposes, are also plentiful, including
perhaps the most valuable ebony of these seas.
I was informed, however, at Amboina, that the
ports of Ceram completely eclipse Cajeli Bay in
point of natural history, and the fancy woods gene-
rally.

The Cajeput oil, I believe, is principally obtained
from this island, and sent to Amboina. That ob-
tained here was superior to any offered for sale at
the latter.*

The morning after our departure from Bouro
found us well to the southward, aided by the pre-
vailing currents, now nearly at the springs. Our
hopes of a speedy passage were, however, baffled by
light airs ; and dreading calms in the Boreton pas-
sage, I determined on hauling to the southward of
the group of Token Bessy, sighting Velthoen, and cor-
recting, if necessary, the positions ofany of the islands.

On the 21st of September we passed Velthoens,
after having been somewhat puzzled at the islands
which surrounded us. Unfortunately the weather
was too hazy to test Velthoens, but the next day at
noon, satisfied me that some of them should take a
more northerly place on the chart. We passed
through very strong ripples and overfalls, but could
not obtain soundings.

From the 17tli until the 20th, a heavy misty

* It has the faculty of reudering paper transparent or opaque
at pleasure.

1840.] PASS BOELE COMBA. 121

oppressive atmosphere surrounded us, preventing our
effecting any of the objects which I had contem-
plated on pursuing this course.

On the night of the 19th of September we had
the misfortune to lose our gunner (Mr. W. Holder)
from dysentery contracted at Tahiti, and which had
obstinately hung upon him since. He was an old
shipmate of mine (as a boy) in 1819, was deservedly
a favourite vrith every one, and much regretted as a
public loss.

Having cleared the Token Bessy group, a course
was steered to sight the Tiger Islands, situated to
S.E. of the island of Salayer. At noon on the 20th
of September we were within four miles of the
position assigned to the easternmost, and before
sunset had run over two more without the slightest
indication of land. They are therefore justly placed
^'^ doubtful'' on the charts. Had our position at
noon admitted of doubt, I might have been in-
clined to attribute something to current, but this
was out of the question on the course steered, as we
reached the mouth of Salayer Strait by daylight,
experiencing a north-westerly current. Indeed, at
dawn we found we had been literally driven through
the strait by the current, then setting west.

About eight on the 24th of September, we per-
ceived the Dutch colours flying on the fort at Boele
Comba, (on the southern coast of Celebes,) and as
this position might assist vessels in correcting their
longitudes, I despatched the Starling to secure its

122 ANCHOR AT MACASSAR. [1840.

position, make a rough survey of the road, and
rejoin me at Macassar.

Pursuing our course westerly, we passed the Bay
of Bonthian, (celebrated for the unhandsome treat-
ment of poor Carteret,) rounded point Layken by
sunset, and shaping our course between Celebes and
the island of Tanakeke, passed through this strait
about eight o'clock, when we anchored for the
night in eighteen fathoms. On weighing at dawn,
we found we had far overshot our distance.

About ten o'clock we discerned a Dutch frigate,
and the forts and town of Macassar; but as the
plans supplied differed by exactly double their scales,
I deemed it prudent to incur expense rather than
risk her Majesty's ship. I therefore made the
signal for a pilot, but as he was long in getting out,
we found ourselves within the harbour, and at an-
chor, before he reached us.

The frigate we found to be the Rotterdam, her
captain having immediately despatched one of his
officers with offers of assistance, and to pay the cus-
tomary compliments. The visit I returned without
delay, and accompanied her captain to pay my re-
spects to the governor. The customary ceremonies
over, and the necessary sanction obtained, our ob-
servatory was pitched nearly on the spot occupied
by the French expedition in the Astrolabe and Zelee.

From the imperfect state of the charts, I deemed
it necessary to make the most of our detention, by
resurveying the dangers, channels, &c., on the ap-
proach to this anchorage.

>■

1840.] DUTCH FRIGATE ROTTERDAM. 123

On the day following I accepted an invitation to
a parting dinner given to the captain and officers of
the Rotterdam, which passed off pleasantly, by
dancing until midnight. Our labours having ter-
minated on the 30th, we took our departure on the
1st of October for Great Solombo and Singapore ;
the Rotterdam having sailed on the 29th for Ba-
tavia.

The civilities offered to myself and officers at this
port left no weight of obligation on our minds.
With the exception of the chief magistrate, who of-
fered me every assistance, I had no acquaintance.

The fort of Macassar stands on the S.W. angle
of the town, disconnected by a ditch and high ram-
part, within the walls of which reside the military,
amounting in all to about three hundred, inclusive of
a squadron of cavalry.

The town, which is walled, is very regularly
built, extending about one quarter of a mile by half
a mile on its squares, and having three gates on its
southern face, which are closed at nine o'clock. The
Chinese appear to constitute the majority of the
population within the town ; but the huts of the
natives extend considerably to the northward, and
appear to be very thickly inhabited. All the coast-
line displays a large proportion of population, and
the small islands also are not deficient in this
respect. They are probably fishermen. Indeed the
approaches from seaward afford very strong testi-
mony to the piscatory pursuits of the natives ; their

124

NATIVES OF CELLEBES.

[1840.

beacons, which were frequently found in sixteen and
seventeen fathoms, inducing a belief in shoal water,
and thus causing an alteration of our course to
thread them. The canoes are also very numerous.

Although the Dutch have so long held possession
of Macassar, their position does not appear free from
alarm, the natives not unfrequently giving them
cause for vigilance. We had frequent opportunities
of noticing the variety of castes, which generally
loitered about the observatory, in their passage
through the fort. In some instances, the higher

k< >^ *- \ X \ > \

■•■\?''^ X> \\

NATIVE OF BUGIS,

classes were very superior in figure, attitude, car-
riage, and complexion. The lower orders, on the

1840.] POSITION OF MACASSAR. 125

contrary, are generally undersized, ill-looking, moody,
and might easily have been stirred into brutality.
Even the higher grades assumed a sulky, suspicious
air, which was anything but prepossessing, and they
appeared at all times ready for mischief. But I never
failed in making them throw off their ill-humour
when I wished to communicate. They were even
excessively polite in their manner.

None go unarmed; generally they carry the
kris, and those of rank are followed by an attendant
with a silver-mounted hunting-spear. Their costume
is Arabic, their religion Mahomedan. The port
appears to possess an extensive coasting trade, if
one may judge from the numerous large prahus at
anchor and on the move ; but I am informed that
their exports will not cover the specie they require
for the purchase of European commodities.

The position of Macassar is reckoned particularly
salubrious. The atmosphere is very dry, and, unlike
any of the positions we have lately visited, we
found it entirely free from rain during our visit. I
am told that it seldom rains, and is very similar to
the climate of Lima. Nevertheless the horizon and
atmosphere on the mountains is very hazy. The
sea-breeze generally sets in regularly about ten
o'clock, commencing from the southward, and
veers to the westward before sunset, when it fails?
and is succeeded about ten o'clock by a cool land-
breeze. The thermometer ranged during our visit
from 74° to 94°. Stock is plentiful and reasonable.

120

PRAHUS.

[1840.

as well as vegetables ; but no table requisites or
wines are to be procured. Their prahus are peculiar.

PRAHUS OF MACASSAR.

Quitting Macassar, our course was directed to
pass to the northward of the Northern Brother,
crossing the Tanakeke ledge, on which the chart
gives nothing less than nine fathoms. About eight
p. M., in heavy ripplings, we shoaled to four and a
half fathoms, when we tacked, and stood to the
eastward, anchoring in five fathoms. The current
set very strong to the W.N.W., and the boats sent
to sound, reporting nothing under four, we again
tripped, and shortly deepened to thirteen fathoms.
By daylight this would have been of little import-
ance, but the dangers of the region being almost
unknown, and heavy overfalls surrounding us, our
situation was anything but pleasant.

On the 3rd of October, we made the island of
Solombo, but were unable to reach our anchorage

1840.] FRESH WATER LAKE. 127

before dark. After rounding the S.W. angle, and
coming suddenly into eight fathoms, I hauled to the
southward, to determine the range of soundings, and
gradually edged in, letting go our anchor in ten fa-
thoms. Daylight showed that our usual good fortune
attended us, as had we stood on half a mile further,
we certainly would have been too near to be pleasant.
In the morning we succeeded in landing, to save
the astronomical observations for time, and having
obtained our suite of magnetic observations, I found
the officers, with their boat's crews, engaged hunting-
wild buffalo. The reports of muskets were fre-
quent, but, although one was badly wounded, our
sportsmen did not reward us by the sight of a car-
cass. Up a small valley near the southern point,
our men noticed a small fresh-water lake, appa-
rently staked, which would lead one to infer that
there were natives or sojourners concealed. How-
ever, we did not perceive even a trace of a footstep
on the sands, nor anything resembling habitations
or their ruins. The mysterious piles, indicating the
work of human beings, as noticed in every island
within the New Guinea range, were numerous.

The composition of the island appears to be vol-
canic, belted, as usual, by compact coral limestone,
through which the black amygdaloidal rocks pro-
trude. The island is well wooded, and has a
crowned elevation with two cones (about three
hundred feet above the sea level) near its southern
extremity. Landing is easily effected at high water,

128 ANCHOR AT PULO KUMPAL. [1840.

but not without wet feet or even wading, nearer
than half a mile from our place of observation, at
low water. It is probable that better landing may
be found in the bay immediately within the south
point, but neither time nor duties admitted of de-
termining this question, or even how far it might be
practicable to water. We were released by the
flowing tide, just before sunset, and having com-
pleted our observations, weighed and pursued our
voyage, steering for the Mancap shoals off the south-
west extremity of the island of Borneo, hoping to
be able to meet with some position for a magnetic
station in that neighbourhood.

On the morning of the 7th of October, we
rounded the shoals of Pulo Mancap, but being then
in seven fathoms, and no island near, I determined
on running for Pulo Kumpal, (Rendezvous Island ;)
and with a favourable breeze reached the anchorao-e

o

within one mile of the point selected for observing,
by noon. This is considerably nearer as well as
much safer anchorage than the charts admit. The
Starling afterwards took up her position within one
eighth of a mile, but had rocky bottom.

No time was lost in selecting our position and
landing our instruments, nor did the island offer any
inducement to expend time in making any very
critical examination, beyond the composition of our
immediate location, (as regarded magnetic disturb-
ance,) which was found to be a mixture of contorted
slaty and sandy schistus, traversed by veins of quartz,

1840.] PASS ISLAND OF CARIMATA. 129

the general mass having apparently undergone vol-
canic action. It had not the slightest effect on the
needles, although the slaggy edges apparently offered
traces of iron.

Having completed our observations, and a simple
survey of the anchorage and outlines of the neigh-
bouring islands, we took our departure at sunset,
October 8th, shaping our course for the Carimata
group. Light variable winds prevailed. On the
9th, we passed the southern Carimata. On the
14th, made Bintang, and about eight p. m., on the
15th, passed to the northward of Pedro Branca,
where, the wind and tide proving adverse, we dropjied
anchor until daylight, when we resumed our course for
Singapore, and reached that port about nine a. m. on
the 16th. Having been visited by the master at-
tendant, I called on the governor, Mr. Bonham, who
was excessively civil ; and as our observations and
occupations did not admit of disturbance, he allotted
me the recorder's house, where Caj)tain D'Urville had
preceded me.

From the utter improbability of our touching at
this port on our homeward voyage, I had not the
most remote idea of meeting with despatches or letters.
To my surprise, however, several official letters were
presented to me ; and this surprise was not a little
increased by one from their lordships, directing
me " immediately to retrace my steps and join the
commander-in-chief in China." Orders, it appeared,
had been transmitted to San Bias, via Mexico, di-

VOL. II. K

130 ORDERS TO REPAIR TO CHINA, [1840.

reeling me to proceed direct to China, but having
quitted previous to their arrival, we had thus lost
the first onset of active operations.

I hardly know whether I am safe in saying that
pleasure or disappointment prevailed. To those
reduced to their last shreds by a five years' absence,
I jDresume that the hopes of home predominated.
However, for myself, I could not but feel the com-
pliment intended, and the importance of straining
every nerve to satisfy my patrons that, although late
in the field, I would do my best. This induced me
to put up with many inconveniences, in order to get
my ship to sea : but with all our exertions, caulking,
refitting, and provisioning, ^y^i did not succeed in
moving until daylight of the 23rd of October.

The botanical collector of seeds from Kew, con-
ceiving himself out of his sphere in our prospective
cruize, requested permission to return to England
with his collection. Several invalids were also sent
away, whose constitutions could not stand further
exposure, as also our Epicurean friend the Baby-
roussa hog.

The port of Singapore has been so frequently
described, that anything like a history of its march
would appear superfluous. Nevertheless, thus much
I think may be safely advanced, that under its pre-
sent worthy and spirited governor, it is making rapid
strides in advancement as well as importance. The
buildings are all in princely style, and viewed from
the sea, will soon contest the title of the City of

1840.] IMPROVEMENTS. 131

Palaces with its more wealthy predecessor. Those
who could at this moment view from the Governor's
Hill what has been effected, and is now in progress,
from marsh to city, would really be astonished at
what wealth, perseverance, and bold design can effect.

On the northern side of the stream are situated
the private residences of the merchants' (little pa-
laces) public offices, &c., behind which, on a mound
rising two hundred feet above the sea, on a fine
airy commanding position, stands the dwelling of the
governor, as well as the signal station.

To the southward of the river all is commercial,
comprehending the warehouses and counting-houses
of the merchants, as well as the shops of the nu-
merous Chinese. All is activity, river and streets
alive with human beings, and the port, almost too
closely, thronged with vessels from every clime.

The nature of our duties, as well as the very
short period of sojourn, prevented our seeing much
of the residents. To the governor I feel that my
able coadjutor Kellett and myself are under consi-
derable obligation for his unremitted kindness during
our short stay, as well as his anxiety to further the
success of our operations. We had also the plea-
sure of becoming acquainted with Lieutenant Elliot
of the Madras Engineers, in charge of the Magnetic
Observatory, and were enabled to compare our instru-
ments with his splendid suite before moving to China.

Previous to our departure, the French frigate
Magicienne, Captain Roy, arrived from Brest and Cal-

K 2

132 QUIT SINGAPORE. [1840.

cutta on her way to Manila and China. I had the
pleasure of paying him a visit on board his frigate,
and felt regret at so short an acquaintance, and the
impossibility, fi'om want of time, to show him the
attention wdiich, under other circumstances, I should
have been delighted to do.

A light breeze helped us but tardily towards
Piedra Branca, or white rock, which serves as the
beacon in those straits, and never did light breezes
weigh so heavily on us as at this moment. About
noon we discovered canvass evidently of our own
hue, and shortly after exchanged numbers with Her
Majesty's brig Cruizer, Captain Giffard. Knowing
him to be direct from the China fleet, our anxiety to
learn particulars was very strong. He shortly came
on board, and although he had but little to commu-
nicate, that little was to the effect that nothing hos-
tile had yet taken place, and that we might yet
be in time to share in hostilities.

This served as a fresh spur to lose not a moment
in reaching the commander-in-chief We, there-
fore, took leave, and hastened on for China. Light
airs compelled us to anchor off Piedra Branca until
daylight, when we resumed our voyage.

I had already made up my mind, owing to the late-
ness of the season, to take the Palawan passage, and
it so happened that on reaching the offing, the pre-
vailing breezes left us no alternative. We were
much worried by heavy rains, squalls, variables, &c.,
preventing our obtaining the latitude ; and had we not

840.] STARLING STRUCK BY LIGHTNING. 133

fortunately j^assed close to Low Island, we should have
been much puzzled how to act. During a heavy
squall, a kind of whiriwind and whiripool combin3d,
which barely cleared our flying jib-boom, passed
close under our lee without damage.

On the morning of the 28th of October we found
ourselves to the S.E. of the great Natuna, with fine
weather and light breeze from S.W., enabling us to
dry our feathers.

On the evening of the 29th, with breezes varying
from E.S.E. to W.S.W., we passed off the bank of
soundings, our last depth being in one hundred and
ten fathoms. On the night of Saturday, the 7th of
November, we experienced a very severe visit of
thunder, lightning, and rain. The forked lightning
darted around us, and apparently inboard, with
awful explosions of thunder, fortunately without
wind. At daylight we found that the Starling had
her foremast, topmast, and topgallant mast shattered,
and three of her crew wounded by the electric fluid.

Every exertion was made to secure the foremast
by the assistance of our spars, and by noon she was
in a condition to limp along with us, until they tried
how much it would stand.

By Sunday, the 15th of November, we had only
reached the northern end of the island of Balabac.
On the 18th, we were ofFthe Royal Captain Shoal;
which by night is certainly most dangerous, particu-
larly if a vessel should unfortunately find it to the
S.W. with light Minds. We tacked within one

134 PASS (iOAT ISLAND. [1840.

cable's length of its S.W. extremity. It is not
more than one mile in diameter.

On the 19th we made Bombay Shoal, passing
within half a cable of its western extreme ; no bot-
tom with one hundred and fifty fathoms.

These patches are lagoon ledges, having about two
or three feet of water over them, with deep blue
water within. A few straogling coral blocks, not
exceeding three feet in height, are here and there
sprinkled over them.

Nothing particular occurred until the 27th, when
we experienced fresh breezes, ^vith very sharp gusts
off the south end of Palawan, causing us to split
several sails. The southern end of the island ap-
peared either to form an archipelago, or to possess
several very snug harbours. I am inclined to the
latter opinion, as I did not observe corresponding-
openings on the northern sides of the headlands, and
(jur in-shore reaches kept us close in with the land
during the whole day.

On the 28th, we experienced a strong north-
easter, which gradually veering to S.E., enabled us to
round Goat Island, and shape our course for Manila.
Both the Starling and Sulphur shaved the surf line
(jf this island without obtaining soundings ; therefore
the dangers reported to lie to the northward of this
island, are incorrectly stated.

At dawn the following morning, we had hoped to
fetch into Manila, but baffling winds prevented us
until the day following from entering the horns of

1840.] ANCHOR AT MANILA. 135

the bay. It was not until the morning of the 1st of
December that we reached our anchorage off tht^
town, in four and a half fathoms. The Starling had
anchored the preceding evening.

We found here the Danaide French corvette, com-
manded by Captain Rosamel, (son of the minister,)
and two English transports, having on board part
of the troops from Chusan, sent here for the re-
covery of their health. They were under strict
quarantine, and in consequence of the massacre of
the English and foreign residents which took place
in 1824, (supposed to originate in the introduction
of cholera,) the authorities could not be persuaded
to relax in their favour. Although, strictly, there
was not the least chance of injurious result by per-
mittino' the officers to communicate with the shore for
their general comfort, still the government was appre-
hensive that the native population and Creoles would
create some disturbance, or possibly insult the visitors.

After the visit of the caj)tain of the port, whom
I found to be a very gentlemanly prepossessing-
character, I accompanied him, together with Mr.
Strachan and Lieut. Kellett, to pay my respects
to the governor, who received us very kindly, and
invited us to dinner on the day following. From
thence we proceeded to the chief of the Hydrogra-
phic commission, and after entering into some con-
versation relative to their present operations in the
survey of these islands, returned to Mr. Strachan's,
the merchant who conducts the consular duties

136 CIVILITY OF AUTHORITIES. [1840.

here, and who at once made us at home, and in-
stalled us as part of his family during* our stay.

In the evening we attended the ball, and were
introduced to the beauties of Manila. The evening-
passed off agreeably. It is the custom amongst the
merchants here to give a ball weekly, each in his
turn, which renders the society very pleasant. The
dinner hour is generally early; most people drive
out after sunset, and visits are paid in the evening.

Manila is situated on the mouth of a river, which
runs a considerable distance into the interior; its
branches, particularly in the northern or mercantile
town, forming a small archipelago. On the south
Jde, which is a complete walled fortification, the
governor, officials, and military reside. The Custom-
house, merchant's houses, Chinese, &c., occupy the
northern bank. The sides of the river are bounded
by stone walls, which are carried out in the manner
of canals, about six hundred yards to the seaward.
On the northern extremity stands the light-house,
and on its opposite a guard-house. At all times
of tide the stream runs out, but the level is subject
to tidal rise as far as the first bridge, at which
point the stream is always fresh enough to fill
water for shii)[)ing. Vessels of two hundred tons, or
more, are brought into this canal. They have a dredg-
ing vessel worked by steam, which is kept pretty con-
stantly employed. The Chinese carry on trade
here to a considerable extent, but their abodes
render the town very shabl)y in appearance ; in
fact, a sort of rag fair. The higher orders, how-

1840.] QUIT MANILA. 137

ever, reside in good houses, and their wares are only
to be viewed within.

The party at the governor's passed off very agree-
ably. He was particularly civil. On my urging
the necessity of deciding upon something relative
to our pent-up soldiers in the transports, he im-
mediately entered into a very full and satisfactory
explanation of his reasons. At the same time, to
show how very anxious he was to exert all the
authority that he possessed, he directed a new board
of health to proceed next morning, and allowed me
to accompany them, and satisfy myself of their
I^roceedings. Everything that could be done under
their laws, was conceded. The officers who wished
to land, were to undergo purification in a gun-boat
for forty-eight hours, and might then remain on
shore, but could not be permitted to pass to and
fro ; and in order to relieve them of any embarrass-
ment, I placed myself in quarantine, after taking
my final leave of the shore, by going on board to
communicate the result of my negociations.

But disappointed men are rarely grateful for any-
thing short of their desires. The indulgence and result
of my exertions were hardly considered worth thanks,
and I quitted them, sorry that I could do no better,
but with the gratification of reflecting that the duty
I had executed would be satisfactory to my com-
mander-in-chief, to whom the governor begged me
most expressly to say, that he would do all that his
jjower permitted, but that he was controlled by tlie
board of health.

138 REACH CHUENPEE. [1840.

Having taken my leave, and stepped the Starling's
foremast, with orders to rejoin me with all despatch
at Macao, I quitted Manila. I had heard that
it was the intention of our commander-in-chief to
commence hostilities on the 15th, therefore Jioiirs
were of the greatest imjDortance, and every exertion
was used to beat up to Cape Bolinas, before stretch-
ing across the China Sea.

On the morning of the 13th, we passed within
a mile of the southern edge of the Pratas reef, on
which we noticed the wreck of a junk. The
weather proved thick ; and was attended with fresh
breezes. We pushed on for Macao on the following
morning (14th) ; but, by an error in the steerage, found
we could not weather the northern Lemma, and there-
fore bore up, passing between them. About noon,
we reached the south-west point of Lantao, and the
breeze failing anchored off the rock on its western side.

It was my intention to proceed direct to Macao,
but observing a pleasure-boat near us, we sent to
inquire for news. The intelligence altered our
plans. The admiral had resigned and gone home,
and Commodore Sir J. Gordon Bremer was in
command of the squadron, off Chuenpee ; but the
most interesting portion was, that no action had
taken place. About sunset, the tide and breeze
being favourable, we moved upwards, but were
again compelled to anchor off Fansyack. After
another tedious day, we sighted and anchored about
two miles from the s([uadron, and that evening I
paid my resj)eets to the commodore.

CHAPTER V.

Naval force in the Canton river — The forts of Chuenpee and Ty-
cocktow attacked — Destruction of the war-junks — Preparations
for forcing the Bocca Tigris — A barber surgeon made prisoner
— Turned to account — Operations suspended — The captured
fortsgivenup — Squadron descends the river — Take possession of
Hong-kong — Hostihties resumed — Return to the Bocca Tigris
— A battery constructed on South Wangtong — The forts of the
Bocca Tigris cannonaded and stormed — Cruelties of the Sepoys
— Ascend the river — Affair of the First Bar Fort — The Cam-
bridge burnt — Unmask a battery — A man killed — Take pos-
session of " Howqua's Folly" — Chinese charges for a gun —
Operations in the river, and before Canton — Another truce
and its remarkable terms — The Commodore goes to Calcutta.

140 AFFAIRS AT CHUENPEE. [1840.

CHAPTER V.

Neither letters nor orders awaited us ; in fact, no-
thing was known about us ; and (as some could not
keep their own counsel) we were viewed as little bet-
ter than interlojjers. On this day they had expected
hostilities. Had they taken place, we certainly
should have been in sight, but there our part
would have ended. We found, however, nothing
at present in contemplation, and for some time
we were kept on the tenter hooks of expecta
tion. Our time was not, however, passed in idle
ness, as we managed to carry on our immediate
survey up to the battery ranges, and otherwise make
ourselves acquainted with the ground. The Starling
rejoined us on the 23rd December.

Various communications having passed between
Her Majesty's Plenipotentiary and the Chinese au-
thorities, decided operations were now in contempla-
tion. Our force consisted of the undermentioned
ships: Wellesley, 78, Captain Maitland, bearing
the broad pendant of Cummodore Sir J. G. Bremer;

1840.] enemy's works. 141

Blenheim, 74, Sir H. Le Fleming Senhouse, K.C.H. ;
Melville, 74, Hon. R. S. Dundas ; Calliope, Capt.
Herbert ; Samarang, 28, Capt. Scott ; Druid, 44,
Capt. Smith ; Sulphur, Commander Belcher ; Larne,
18, Commander Blake ; Hyacinth, 18, Commander
Warren ; Modesto, 18, Commander Eyres : Colum-
bine, 18, Commander Clarke ; Starling, Lieut. H.
Kellett. Steamers, Queen, Nemesis, Madagascar,
and Enterprize.

Chuenpee, or Shakok, is supposed to be the outer
defence to Canton river, but ships can easily pass
it, and even through in the direction of Tycocktow
(or Taikok) without much danger from shot from
either battery. The first battery on the crest of
Chuenpee, in the hands of practised gunners with
good ordnance, would be a serious obstruction.

The island of Chuenpee is entirely composed of
small hills, rising from a general level, which affords
good valley passes for troops. By a reconnoissance,
almost overlooking the enemy's works, it was evi-
dent that troops could advance, if covered by shipping
on the west to create a diversion, and that the hill
of Chuenpee once in our hands, the batteries be-
neath were untenable. The Chinese had thrown up
a very perfect ditch, extending from the sea on the
west, and completely surrounding their entrenched
camp, and, moreover, had guns placed to command
the several valley passes.

Tycocktow was an open-faced battery, which must
inevitably fall under a direct attack from the shipping.

142 ACTION AT CHUENPEE. [1841.

On the morning of the 7th of Jannavy the order of
battle was issued. The western division, for the
attack of Tycocktow, was placed under the command
of Captain Scott of the Samarang, having under his
orders the Druid, Modeste, and Columbine. The
eastern division, under Captain Herbert, consisted of
Calliope, Larne, Hyacinth ; steamers, Queen and Ne-
mesis, with boats of Sulphur, &c., Commander Bel-
cher, who was ordered to place Queen and Nemesis
to shell the enemy from the heights ; and afterwards
to attack the enemy's war junks. The troops and
marines were to be landed, and advance by the
valley, direct on the enemy's works ; the brigade
commanded by Major Pratt, 26th (Cameronians.)

This force consisted of a battalion of Royal
Marines, under their gallant chief. Captain Ellis ;
a detachment of Royal Artillery, one twenty-four
pounder howitzer, and two field-pieces, drawn by sea-
men, from Wellesley, Blenheim, and Melville ; the
whole commanded by Captain Knowles, Royal
Artillery; detachments of 26th Cameronians; and
37th native infantry, under Major Pratt, amounting
in all to about fourteen hundred men. The brigade,
as before stated, under the command of Major
Pratt.

The divisions landed about half-past eight. The
Samarang led her division in gallant style, direct for
the centre of the battery, anchoring within half a
cable's length of the Avails, followed by the Modeste,
Druid, and Columl)ine ; and quickly and gallantly was

1841.] ' DESTRUCTION OF WAR JUNKS. 143

their work achieved. Queen and Nemesis were duly
placed, and dropped their shells prettily, the Queen
firing the first shot, or " opening the ball," as Jack
had it, when Calliope, Hyacinth, and Larne, an-
chored and opened on the Lower Chuenpee,

On observing the marines about to enter the upper
battery, I transferred myself to Nemesis, and pushed
on with our division of boats for the junks, giving
Lower Chuenpee a dose of grape and canister, within
pistol range. The Nemesis, drawing not more than
five and a half or six feet, enabled us to get close
up with the junks before opening fire, when several
well-directed guns put them completely into confu-
sion. The first rocket pitched into the magazine of
the ship next the admiral, and she blew up in great
style.

This settled the affair. The boats then moved
on, and set fire to the junks in the lower part of the
river, but in ascending the main branch, those
retreating under canvass kept up a very spirited fire
on the chasing boats, very gallantly kept in check
by Lieut. Watson, of the Calliope. The increase of
force soon decided their fate ; two ran on shore, and
the remainder made their escape.

The Nemesis having entered by the deep channel,
came up in time to give the five retreating junks a
dose, when the falling tide, and lateness of the hour,
rendered it necessary to ensure her return. We first
ran alongside the town, and selecting three of the
most suspicious looking craft, they were towed down.

144 admiral's button restored. [1841.

One proving to be merchant property, and her
owners imploring her restitution in the most affect-
ing manner, I released it ; the other two were
towed out, but one grounding outside, I left Kellett
with the boats to destroy her ; but as she was found to
contain powder, this was not an easy task ; she was
therefore abandoned. Eleven war junks, including
their admiral's vessel, were destroyed and burned.

About five I rejoined the commodore, dined with
him, and made arrangements for the work of the
morrow ; the squadron having already moved up in
readiness to commence the attack on the Wangtong,
Anunghoy, and other batteries.

Having waited on the commodore about daylight,
(by desire,) it was arranged that having examined
the line of danger, so as to admit of taking one of
the line-of-battle-ships up the western channel to
Wangtong, I was to place the Queen, Nemesis, and
rocket-boats, flanking Anunghoy, and then pilot
Wellesley to Wangtong.

In our affair of the junks, I had captured the admi-
ral's flag, cap, button, &g., and he now had sent the
comprador to implore that the latter might be re-
turned to him. This having caused some sharp discus-
sion, which interfered with, and, as I thought, delayed
action, I instantly offered the button and cap, to put an
end to the question ; for which I was warmly thanked
by Captain Elliott, as well as the commodore. I
mention this circumstance, as the public prints have
attributed this act of mine to Captain Elliot, instancing

1841.]

HAND OF BARBER-SURGEON.

145

it as a peculiar act of kindness. Indeed, I cannot, on
mature reflection, at all reconcile to mjself the jus-
tice of returning an enemy his sword or rank, when
his desertion or abandonment of it have rendered
him unworthy to wear it. However, as this button
brought us nearer action by some minutes, perhaps
hours, I Avas glad to pay the price.

Another still more unfortunate transaction marred

that days operations. A Chinese barber-surgeon,*
taken prisoner in Tycocktow, was allowed to go in
with a chop,f intimating, " that if they wished their
lives spared, or the action stayed, they had only to
" Chin-chin," haul down their colours, or send out a
white flag, and hostilities Avould cease ;" meaning to
intimate, that life would be spared by their pursuing
such a line of conduct when they intended to submit.

"^ The woodcut of this hand of the barber-surgeon, was taken
by making him place his hand on the paper, and tracing it out.
t Chop is a note or letter, and in this case, of truce.
VOL. II. L

146 TRUCE. [1841.

This, however, was too great an oversight for a
Chinese to let slip, and at the very critical mo-
ment when the Nemesis had opened a distant fire ;
and when a twenty-four pounder rocket had pitched
into the fort from Blenheim's rocket-boat, the Queen
also close in upon her station, about to enfilade, and
in a few minutes more Blenheim's broadside to settle
the question ; — down dropped the Chinese banners,
and out moved a Tankea boat, with an old man and
woman eocMUtintf a letter. I was within shot of her in
the Queen, about halfway between her and the com-
modore, and perfectly aware of its meaning ; but it
appeared to the other officers of the squadron not a
little strange that the flag of truce answered tJiis
non-official demonstration from the old woman. Up
went the flag of truce, and action Avas annulled,
before the contents of that paper coidd be known.

Under the customary practice of war, action had
commenced, and w^e were certainly entitled to anchor,
" muzzle to muzzle," when their colours were thus
struck, and in that condition settle the terms of
negociation ; even if the act were not deemed a
virtual surrender.

On the 13tli of January, the Calliope, Sulphur,
Modesto, Columbine, and Starling, (forming the
light division,) anchored in line, off" South Wangtong
Island, preparatory to raising a howitzer battery on
that island, and, supported by it, attacking the
northern forts with the ships. On the 21st, these
operations were suspended, by the pacific disposition

1841.] HOSTILITIES SUSPENDED. 147

of the Chinese minister. Keshen ; and the squadron
were therefore directed to move back to Chuenpee.

Thus for a period ended this straggle ; a messen-
ger (formerly a disgraced comprador of the house of
Dent and Co.) arrived to signify that he was pre-
pared to treat. Keshen did not personally appear,
but through this emissary sent his adhesion to the
demands of Captain Elliot, as embodied in the
treaty.

The only important point to which we became
officially parties, was the cession of the island of
Hongkong, situated off the peninsula of Cowloon,
within the island of Lama, and on the northern side
of entrance through the Lemma channel.

Captain Scott, of the Samarang, having been left
behind to give up the demolished forts of Chuenpee
andTycocktowto the Chinese authorities, the squadron
withdrew from the river, and moved down to the
S.W. bay of Lantao ; the commodore, shifting his
broad pendant to the Calliope, moved on to Macao,
accompanied by the Lame, Hyacinth, and Modeste.

The Columbine was despatched to Chusan, to
recal the force stationed there, and further to direct
its evacuation on the release of Captain Anstruther,
Mrs. Noble, &c.

On the return of the commodore on the 24th, we
were directed to proceed to Hongkong, and com-
mence its survey. We landed on Monday, the
26th, at fifteen minutes past eight, and being the

L 2

148 TAKE POSSESSION OF HONG KONG. [1841

bona fide first possessors, her Majesty's health was
drank with three clieers on Possession Mount.

On the 26th, the squadron arrived ; the marines
were landed, the union hoisted on our post, and
formal possession taken of the island, by Commodore
Sir J. G. Bremer, accompanied by the other officers
of the squadron, under a feu-de-joie from the marines,
and a royal salute from the ships of war.

On the Cowloon Peninsula were situated two bat-
teries, which might have commanded the anchorage,
but which appeared at present to be but thinly
manned ; these received due notice to withdraw their
men and guns, as part of the late treaty.

The French corvette Danaide having arrived at
Macao, on a cruise of observation, and Captain
Elliot having arranged to meet Keshen, and com-
plete the negociations at the Second Bar, had
invited Captain Rosamel to join the party at Chuen-
pee. The Hyacinth and Modeste, being off Lintin
to maintain the blockade, refused to permit the
Danaide to pass up : an official refusal was very po-
litely requested, when it was arranged that the
Hyacinth should remove to Chuenpee, where the
blockade would be acknowledged. Both vessels
having anchored there, Captain Elliot, with his
party of the officers of the squadron, in the Nemesis,
took Captain Rosamel on board, and moved on to
the place of meeting. Keshen received them in
state at the Second Bar, in tents, where they were

1841.] MEETING OF KESHEN AND CAPT. ELLIOT. 149

very handsomely entertained. A guard of marines,
taken up by the steamers, was turned out, and
Keshen, as well as the other mandarins, were particu-
larly struck with their appearance and accoutre-
ments. Various engines of war were exhibited, but
from the nature and construction of those in use
amongst their soldiers, I should imagine that they
comprehended very little of their superiority.

Having completed the necessary data for the sur-
vey of Hong-kong, we quitted for Macao, intending
to rate the chronometers, and complete a course of
magnetic observations, preparatory to revisiting Ma-
nila, on our homeward route. The commodore had
released me, in the full belief that the war in China
was at an end.

On the 19th, the commodore being on a visit at
Macao, I called to pay my respects, previous to
taking leave, when I found that operations were to
be renewed. I was, therefore, retaken under his
orders, and directed to return forthwith to our late
position off the Wangtong islands, and place myself
under the orders of Captain Herbert. It appears that
whilst the Nemesis was waiting for an answer to a
despatch, one of her boats had been sounding, and the
northern Wangtong battery thought fit to fire a shot
at her. This was not the actual cause of this sudden
movement. But the period having elapsed for the
completion of the necessary documents of the treaty,
and the intelligence from Canton clearly evincing
hostile preparations, as well as the supercession of

150 ANCHOR OFF SOUTH WANGTONG. [1841.

Keslien by the exterminating' Generals Yihshan
Lung\A'an, and Yangfang, it became necessary to
strike a sudden blow.

Having passed the light squadron during the
night, and obtained some observations on Sampan-
chow, the Calliope, Samarang, Herald, and Alligator,
passed up, and about four we rejoined them off
Wangtong. A reconnoissance of the enemy's works
Avas immediately made from the southern Wangtong,
which they had neither fortified nor occupied ; and
preparations were accordingly made for constructing
a howitzer battery on the saddle neck of that island.
As no immediate operations were to take place,
the Sulphur and the Louisa tender moved down to
Lintin Bar, to guide the ships of the line over the bar.
Observing the Queen steamer coming up, I immedi-
ately put myself on board of her, and joined the com-
modore; leaving the Louisa at anchor on the tongue of
Lintin spit, and one of our cutters on the opposite
side, the Sulphur following us up. Just as we passed
Sampanchow, we noticed the Nemesis coming out of
Junk Creek, towing- the boats of the light squadron,
and displaying the Chinese banners captured at a
stockade fort which Captain Herbert had destroyed.
(Guns mounted and dismounted at this fort, about
eighty.)

I accompanied Captain Herbert to visit it the day
following, but a serious attack of fever left me
little time for amusement. The thought of l)eiiig
left out of the ajiproaching attack, did not tend to

1841.] ATTACK THE NORTH WANGTONG. 151

relieve it ; but a visit from the commodore and
Captain Herbert the evening previous to the action,
revived me considerably, and at four on the follow-
ing morning the fever suddenly quitted me.

I immediately dressed myself, and walked the
deck to gather strength, and about eight o'clock went
to the Wellesley, when I contrived to scramble up the
side and mount her quarter-deck. My orders were
brief as usual — " Join Captain Herbert's division as
before."

As the breeze was light, and scarcely gave steerage
way, the squadron did not move as early as was
expected. At daylight Captain Knowles, R.A.,
opened with his howitzers from South Wangtong,
and kept the enemy pretty well amused throughout
their lines. About nine o'clock I visited his bat-
tery, and took a fair view of the enemy's works,
and as soon as the breeze freshened, repaired on
board the Calliofie. Passing close to the western
battery, she was anchored within musket-shot, on
its N.W. flank, opposing her broadside to the new
works which had been thrown up on that face of the
island. Samarang took up her station very prettily
under her stern, and the cross fire of the two ves-
sels was beautiful ; it acted like masons chipping off
the alternate angles of the nearest embrasure.

In a few minutes the enemy were flying ; when,
by Captain Herbert's direction, I passed to the
commodore, and found Wellesley and Druid punish-
ing the western heavy fort. Having communicated

152 SCENES AT WANGTONG. [1841.

" that there was no further opi^ositioii," I was or-
dered to see the troops landed immediately. It re-
quired but the sight of our despatch boat to set all
the landing boats in motion, forcing my gig high
and dry.

On landing, I immediately took possession of the
pass above the western battery, and prevented any
advance until a commanding officer was found to
lead the troops ; many of the landing boats' crews
having quitted their boats, were sent back. I then
directed Commander Fletcher to take the battery at
the beach, and moved on with the troops.

Opposition there was none. The unfortunate
Chinese literally crammed the trenches, begging for
mercy. I wish I could add that it was granted.
The Sepoys fired into them. Wishing to rescue
some of them, I went into the trench and drew
three out, motioning them to come amongst our
troops, and they would be safe. Two were shot
down whilst holding by my skirts ; and one of my
gig's crew, perceiving my danger, dragged me away,
exclaiming, " They ^vill shoot you next, sir." Thus
much for employing troops who cannot understand
English, and will only be commanded by their own
officers !

Passing to the eastern battery, seconded by the
first lieutenant of the Samarang, (now Commander
Bowers,) we found not the slightest opposition.
Indeed, it had been better if the troops had not
advanced at all, for the liatred of the Bengal Vo-

1841.] BOGUE FORTS TAKEN. 153

lunteers towards the unfortunate wretches we found
on their knees imploring for mercy, might have
been averted, and our colours still unsullied. Over
seamen I had control, and could make myself un-
derstood, but these Bengalese would not under-
stand.

It is unnecessary to relate the numerous acts of
ferocity and brutality that I witnessed. I saw one
of them deliberately fire his musket at a magazine
door, and mentioned it to an officer of the 26th ;
but it was of no avail ; he was in the same predica-
ment, and could only place a sentinel to prevent a
repetition.

On my return, I met the Commodore and Cap-
tain Maitland. They were also busy in putting a
stop to these irregularities. I do not believe, from
the instant we landed, (and I was the first,) that one
single individual was found in arms, and yet hun-
dreds were killed.

Quitting Wangtong, I rejoined Captain Herbert,
who, with Captain Elliot, moved into the Nemesis,
and ran over to have a finger in the Anunghoy
affair. But Sir Le F. Senhouse, in the Blenheim, and
Captain Dundas of the Melville, had already done
their work brilliantly. We saw Sir Le Fleming
leading his men on to the second battery in good
style. A shell was sent into the near corner, and
it was then decided that it would not be fair to in-
terfere with his laurels.

Before sunset the enemy were driven from every

154 LIGHT DIVISION PASS UP THE RIVER. [1841.

post, even from their hill encampment; and the
British were the only colours in sight. Captain
Herbert having intimated his intention of moving
on at dawn, I droj^ped Sulphur up to Tiger Island,
leaving, en passant, a beacon on " the sixteen feet
rock."

At half past six, A.M.Feb. 27th, we weighed, and led,
followed by Calliope, Herald, Alligator, Modesto, Ne-
mesis, and Madagascar steamers. The batteries on
Tiger Island were deserted, and the guns withdrawn,
j)robably for the new defences on Wangtong. At fifty
minutes past ten we j^assed the second bar creek,
and about a quarter past twelve, observed an exten-
sive battery and encampment \Althin the first bar.
The channel was barred at the Chop House below
Golgotha, by a floating bridge, and the Cambridge,
now converted into a Chinese ship of war, moored
above to cover it.

By signal, at half past one, we anchored off the first
bar. I immediately joined Captains Herbert and
Elliot in the Nemesis, and went in to reconnoitre.
The Nemesis and Madagascar having anchored
within, in an enfilading position, fired a few shots to
try range. This was returned by the Celestials,
and the question then became, — " can we retreat
without their claiming a victory ?" No one Avas bold
enouo-h to give his consent to such a proposition.
It was, therefore, determined that our ships should
come in. By the advantage of our boat signals the
Sulphur was instantly underway to ineet me ; but

1

J

I

1841.] DESTROY FIRST BAR FORT. 155

I had promised Captain Herbert, the instant he ap-
proached, to join him. The Sulphur anchored ahead,
in support of the steamers, and after watching
the effect of a few of our red-hot shot, I joined
Calliope, when she was placed within and ahead of
the Sulphur, and after one broadside it was de-
termined to storm. The other ships anchored in
rotation.

In refutation of Commander Bingham's hearsay
account, (p. 152 to 158,) it is merely necessary to
refer to the public despatch on the capture of First
Bar Fort, and it will then appear that the junior cor-
vette did not lead into action, but that the facts are
as above stated.

A hard embankment fortunately afforded us ex-
cellent footing, and the marines having been drawn
up, and Captain Herbert joined the van, we entered
without opposition on the S.W. angle of the bat-
tery, one party taking the eastern line, and the
remainder the sea face. At some points the enemy
behaved well ; but as they could not stand an in-
stant against disciplined men, a very few moments
made the battery our own. The only living pri-
soners were two fine little horses, which were cast
in the ditch, but helped out. One of the party
mounted one of them, but was glad to be left be-
hind, as, immediately on regaining the use of his
limbs, he scampered off to the enemy.

The instant the battery was attacked, Lieut.
Watson, first of Calliope, crossed their gig over the

156 CAMBRIDGE BLOWN UP. [1841.

floating- bridge, and boarded the Celestial frigate^
Cambridge. The crew had fled, and she was soon
in flames. About dark, she blew up with a mag-
nificent explosion. The solid wall or column of
flame exceeded three hundred feet, and was capped
by a mushroom head, of apparently fluid fire. In
a few seconds not a vestige remained of this once
British ship. This is the same Cambridge which
was brought on speculation to China, by Mr. (now
Sir C.) Douglas, was sold by him to an American,
and immediately transferred, with her guns, &c., to
the Chinese.

After spiking and disabling the guns in the fort,
blowing up their magazines, and carrying off" a
stock of banners, we retired about seven. Thus in
the short space of a few hours, all this very beau-
tifully constructed, and (as far as silk banners and
tents could make it so) beautifully decorated bat-
tery was utterly annihilated, and the valiant Celes-
tials had fled no one could tell whither.

It has been the custom with all those with whom
we have had thus to deal, to strip off" every badge
of military apparel the instant we come to close
quarters ; and I suspect that they conceive that
having yielded all, their j^ersons are free ; at all
events, they lose no opportunity to render that
point secure, by their very rapid flight. By precon-
certed arrangements with Captain Herbert, I am
ha]ipy to say that no butchery was practised
here.

1841.] DESTROY MASKED BATTERY. 157

In the morning I joined Captain Herbert, who,
with Captain Elliot, and the captains of the squa-
dron, proceeded in the Nemesis to examine the Salt
Junk creek, and ascertain what depth we could
carry up. After sighting " Howqua's Folly," and
Napier Fort, where the river was observed to be
staked, and junks sunk, we put her head down-
wards, to return to our ships. At this moment I
noticed a suspicious smoke at the near angle of the
trees, but as no report followed, I could not be cer-
tain that it was a battery.

On our return, our ships were passed through the
raft at the First Bar, and anchored in Whampoa
reach. On the following day it was determined
that the Sulphur should move up the creek, and
Captain Elliot having volunteered his assistance, we
moved on without any accident, until we neared the
suspected point, where I noticed the smoke yesterday.
In my own mind, I was satisfied that we were to
have amusement, and having with me a division of
the Wellesley's boats, they were ordered " to close,
load, and prepare for action." Our men were also
at quarters, and red hot shot were in readiness for the
bow guns.

We were not too soon. They instantly opened
on us from a very well masked battery of thirty-five
guns. The boats having been ivarned, required no
further orders ; and leaving Captain Elliot in charge,
I jumped into my gig to recal them, (or " prevent
their doing too much,") in compliance with Captain

158 howqua's folly, [1841.

Elliot's wish. They were, however, too quick for
me. The enemy had fled, and our party (rather
foolishly) had pursued them into the town, where
they might have been cut off. In what direction
to pursue them was a difficult problem ; I therefore
took means to secure their retreat, or aid them
if requisite, and destroyed the guns and munitions
of war. In this affair, we had the misfortune to lose
one of the Wellesley's men, who was shot through
the lungs whilst sounding. Having returned to
the Sulphur, she was anchored in advance within
two miles of Howqua's Folly, Napier's Fort being
about one mile and a half beyond. The Herald,
Alligator, and Modeste, entered the reach in the
evening.

In commander Bingham's account, p. 159, he
here makes not only a great mistake, but certainly
appears to imply a want of discipline in Lieut.
Symons.

The Sulphur only, and not towed, accompanied by
the boats of the Wellesley, as I have before stated,
performed this service. Lieut. Symons could not
order when a superior was commanding.

" Howqua's Folly " is a quadrangular fort, con-
structed of granite, and mounting twenty-eight guns
on its four faces. It was built at the cost of
Howqua, the Hong merchant, either by a squeeze,
or for some punishment. " Napier's Fort" is of similar
construction, placed on the tongue of an island, com-
manding two passages, and intended to ])revcnt

1841.] ARRIVAL OF SIR HUGH GOUGH. 159

any more Napiers jDroceeding, vi et arum, to Canton.
Drury's Folly is a lofty pagoda, but not in a con-
spicuous position, and is intended to point out the
failinofs of the individual of that name.

On the 3rd of March the commodore joined us
in the Madagascar, and having already examined the
river, within musket shot of Howqua's Folly, I got
permission to move the Sulphur, " but not to risk
action for the present," a flag of truce having been
sent by the American consul. On anchoring
within gTape range, but entirely protected by the
bank, the enemy fired the g-un nearest to us, and I
suspect fled.

Major-General Sir Hugh Gough had arrived in
the Cruizer, and taken command of the troops. I
had now the pleasure of being introduced to him.
As the Quangchowfoo, or mayor of Canton, was ex-
pected with a flag of truce, I was despatched to
receive him, and conduct him to the Commodore.
In my passage up the river, I took a glance at
Howqua's Folly, but found it apparently deserted.
The Sulphur was moved nearer to the battery, and
hoisted the Commodore's pendant, and flag of truce.
The Quangchowfoo passed without my noticing him,
mistaking the boat which conveyed him for that of
the American, who was in her.

As I considered Howqua's Folly virtually aban-
doned, I obtained the commodore's leave to take
possession, and on reaching the gate, found some

IGO VISIT OF QUANGCHOWFOO. [1841.

people at the embrasures. As tliey did not attend to
my gestures to open the gates, my boat's crew in a
few seconds pitched me through the embrasure,
when the Chinese vacated at double quick time by
the opposite one. A shot soon opened the gates,
the union was substituted for their hieroglyphics, and
Lieut. Kellett, of the Starling, was left as acting gover-
nor. The gun which had been fired on my anchor-
ing oif the fort the first day, I found had burst,
and driven its breech into the house behind it ;
probably committing more havoc amongst the
garrison, than its shot would, had it fallen on board
the Sulphur. On my return, I found the pendant of the
commodore shifted to the Modeste, as they wished the
Quangchowfoo to visit a vessel with a greater display of
guns. (Vide Commander Bingham's account of this,
p. 160.)

I was then despatched with a flag of truce to
Napier's Fort, accompanied by Mr. Morrison, inter-
preter and secretary to the plenipotentiary. The
flag of truce made use of on this occasion, was a
large white silk flag, captured at First Bar Fort, and
possibly recognised by some of the runaways here.
After delivering the despatch, the mandarin in com-
mand agreed to give up the fort next day, if I
would permit him " to make plenty of bobbery,"
" and not put that plum in the gun." I told him,
as I should probably have the job, that I would
not trouble him, provided he ran away in time."

1841.] Napier's fort. 161

These facts being communicated to the commo-
dore, at eleven the next day, when the flag of truce
came down, I was directed to take possession.

The enemy had commenced a very strong mud
battery on the right bank, for thirty-eight guns ;
but I had been in its rear, and ascertained it to be
harmless. On the left, in the opposite channel, a
strong battery of forty guns covered Napier's Fort,
and a wide and deep ditch at the floating bridge,
flanked by a five-gun battery, prevented access by land.
Of this latter we were not then aware. By boat
signal, (all the captains being on board the Nemesis
with the commodore,) the Sulphur was in motion
before any of those anxious to lead could get to
their ships, and was well supported by the Wellesley
and Druid's boats, as well as her own. The ship
was steered direct for the battery, the first lieu-
tenant having orders to drop his anchor, so as to
bring her stern to the raft, and port broadside to
the gate within pistol shot ; but not to fire without
orders. We were in our boats, towed alongside.

Our respective terms of treaty were religiously ob-
served. The enemy fired away all his rammers, &c.,
wide of us, and fled by one gate as I entered at the
other. Two huge guns were pointed out of the arch-
ways of the gates ; their calibre about twenty-four
pounders, but much heavier than our ten-inch guns.
These I had ordered to be embarked, but when
they commenced drawing the charges, they found
that each contained seven shot and sLv oartridges,

VOL. II. M

162 RETURN TO WHAMPOA. [1841

inserted alternately — I suppose cartridge first, but
the contrary certainly would not surprise me. The
whole charge, as their cartridges are not less than
one foot in length, came pretty near the muzzle.
The guns were too cumbrous to move during our
limited stay.

A few minutes sufficed to make the fort British,
and leading on the division for the centre of the
bridge, a few strokes of a well-tempered axe, which
is my constant companion, made a gap wide enough
for ourselves, and ships if required, to pass.

The division intended to take the forty-g-un bat-
tery were brought to a stand still by the ditch, but
we pushed on and planted our colours. But what
a mortification ! not a gun or enemy remained ; every-
thing had been withdrawn during the night. A
" flare up" we might easily have had, as the lines
were plentifully strewed with powder.

The troops had been moved on, with their gallant
General at their head, in order to take this battery
in rear, as well as obtain the command of the main
road to Canton ; but he also had been impeded by
the ditches and paddy fields, and returned as much
disheartened as ourselves.

The Modeste and Starling had moved down on the
7th, to try another branch, called " the Macao Fort
channel," and the Sulphur, Avithout waiting longer, beat
down, and reached the anchorage at Whampoa, seat-
ing herself on the mud about five o'clock, when I
joined the General, Commodore Captain J. Elliot, and

1841.] ATTACK OF MACAO FORT. 163

Captain Herbert, on board the Calliope, at dinner.
The Sulphur now proceeded up the Macao Fort
reach, but unfortunately grounded, and returned. On
the 13 th she again moved up, but grounding again,
was prevented having her shot at the battery before
it was captured. I just reached in time, in my gig,
to be launched over the rafts, and take possession
of a very complete '\fast boat,'' the crew of which
ran her ashore and fled. Her commander was a man-
darin with a white button, which latter I captured,
together with sundry articles for the toilet, which
prove that mandarin dandies exist. During the
short interval of truce, we moved down to Sam-
panchow, to obtain rates for our chronometers, re-
turning to Whampoa on the 11th.

As some pause took place before further opera-
tions, I busied myself with the examination of an
unfrequented channel to the southward of Dane's
and French Islands ; indeed, one never attempted
by ships on any previous occasion. Having ascer-
tained that a corvette could be carried up to a posi-
tion where the commerce of the enemy might be
completely obstructed, I had permission to move
the Hyacinth (18) thither.

On the 16th March, we started, and j)laced her
in the southern end of the Fatee creek, and on the
17th at noon, returned to the Modeste, where I
found Captain Herbert. The commodore was ex-
pected on the morrow.

The next grand attack was to be commenced on

M 2

164 FATEE CREEK. [1841.

the Crow's-nest Fort, where a floating bridge again
obstructed the river. A five-gun battery above,
flanked it, and two war junks were moored beyond.
The enemy showed about twenty fast boats, pulling
about fifty to sixty oars each, armed with one or
two brass guns, and eight gingals, carrying four-
ounce balls. My mind was fully bent on cap-
turing these gentry. Through the Fatee creek I
hoped to catch them in rear, whilst they were
showing off before the shipping, (with a bridge be"
tween them.) The force to complete the service
before mentioned, was the Modeste, Starling, Alge-
rine, Hebe, Louisa, Nemesis and Madagascar
steamers, and the boats of the squadron generally.

The Commodore, and Captain Elliot, accompanied
by Captain Herbert and myself, proceeded in Nemesis
to examine Fatee Creek from the position of the Hya-
cinth. It was found impossible to push the Hyacinth
higher, nor was there room for the Nemesis. It was,
therefore, decided that I should take the command
of a division of boats through this creek. This
division, consisting of the boats belonging to the Sul-
phur, Hyacinth, Calliope, Cruizer, and Pylades, and
supported by my worthy friend Captain Warren,
moved forwards about eleven.

Attaching our tow ropes to one of the large pas-
sage boats, we compelled her to tow us a considerable
distance, so as to avoid being noticed by the Chinese.
At the point where the creek turned off" to Fatshan,
there was scarcely room for our oars, and here a three-

1841.] ATTACK CANTON. 165

gun battery had been prepared for its defence, but we
found it deserted, and the guns withdrawn.

Having cast off from the junk, we had scarcely-
entered the narrow pass, when we descried a boat mak-
ing off. It was fortunate for our party, as his range
of sweeps required as much room as ours ; and his ad-
vance cleared the way for us in full cry after him.
How he contrived to pass, or whether the vessels,
were thrust out purposely, I know not, but fre-
quently we had not room for our oars ; and for this
reason he distanced on us.

At length the Broadway near the city opened,
with Canton ahead. The action had commenced
below, the vessels had passed the bridge, and the
" fast boats" were flying in all directions. Warren
and myself had entirely distanced our divisions ; one
huge fellow we chased for a long time within pistol
shot, yet he gained on us, and we were reluctantly
compelled to relinquish him, to make sure of the
others, now well within our grasp.

The reports of the carronades of our boats soon
told where they were, and having rejoined, the lighter
boats were left in charge of the captured fast boats,
and we then moved forward. The crowd of vessels
falling constantly in our way, as well as myriads of
sampans, &c., greatly obstructed our progress, and
as we neared Canton, our vessels, not aware of our
manoeuvre, and mistaking us for the enemy, were
dropping their shot freely amongst us.

As we sighted the Shameen Fort, it opened on

166 HOIST COLOURS AT FACTORY. [1841.

the steamers advancing. We were then completely
under cover of the houses, and landed, expecting to
drive them out by musketry ; but found a deep and
wide ditch between us, as well as a blank wall.
The boats with guns were therefore brought up side
by side to the piles in front, and five carronades,
at thirty yards, played into their embrasures with
grape, where they could not depress their guns.
Joining Captain Warren in his gig, we landed, but
before we could reach the gates, the enemy had
fled. Having captured the fort, and the boats of
the main division dropping in, I quitted, and joined
the Nemesis, (leaving Captain Warren to move on
to capture the Dutch Folly,) and was towed by her
towards Rouge Fort, where having hauled down its
colours, and left a party destroying the guns, I
returned to the Nemesis, and was joined by Mr.
Morrison, secretary to the Plenipotentiary. At
the request of Captain Elliot, I landed, and re-
hoisted the British colours on the factory. Whilst
thus engaged, a party of soldiers rushed out of the
Hoppo' office, and had nearly succeeded in cutting
off part of my boats' crew. But, being reinforced by
one of our divisions, we pursued them up Hog-lane,
and drove them back with some loss.

On my return to the Nemesis, Captain Elliot
requested me to take him to Howqua's house, or
where his tea-boats are laden ; and having seated
himself in the bow of one of the vessels, despatched
one of the compradors to say he wished to sjieak

1841.] DUTCH FOLLY. 167

with him. Howqua, however, would not come ;
he was probably too much frightened, and afraid
of involving himself ; but he sent down some tea,*
which was rather acceptable. Captain Elliot then
sent requesting him to tell the Quang-chow-foo " that
he wished an interview the day following."

We then returned to the Madagascar steamer,
where I found the Commodore. Some of the Chi-
nese having fired on our boats, (from the Custom-
house,) they were punished instanter by their carron-
ades, sweeping the lanes, and the Madagascar also
threw in several well-directed shells. Captain
Warren and his division captured the Dutch Folly,
as well as five of Lin's gun-boats, most grotesquely
painted as dolphins, dragons, &c.

One of these having grounded, I was despatched
to burn her, which having completed, I proceeded
below Dutch Folly, where I found four fast boats,
and a sand battery mounting five guns, very neatly
masked with the mat bags ; the guns truly breeched
with matting. These were all destroyed. The arse-
nal, and ten new war junks, were left untouched. The
fast boats taken by our division amounted in all to
fourteen. Five junks with very valuable cargoes,
estimated at two and a lialf millions, were not meddled
with ; and the force was employed, during the lat-
ter part of the day, in saving Howqua's tea stores
from the flames, the war junks, which had been
fired, having drifted on them.

* Bona fide in this case, a mixture of gunpowder, not How-
qua's mixture.

168 TERMS OF TRUCE. [1841.

October the 19th, the officers assembled in the
factory. Howqua and Mowqaa made their apjDear-
ance, the former a very old infirm man, but I am
sadly afraid they are both great rogues, and hostile
to Great Britain. Shortly after, the Quang-chow-
foo made his appearance, and \vas introduced in
form, when we left him and the plenipotentiary
to discuss matters.

It is rather a curious fact, that we should have
replaced the British colours on the anniversary of
their expulsion two years since.

Terms were arranged for re-opening the trade
under a flag of truce ! This was the amount of
punishment awarded for their perfidy, and the ex-
pense incurred by her Majesty's government. Truce
and trade ! Why ask permission ? The command
of the tea, as well as the tea merchants, was in our
hands ; all the teas of Canton were virtually the pro-
perty of the British crown, until awarded as prize-
money, and therefore ought to have been sold by
public auction. But it was a complete advantage
obtained against the British. The increased price was
placed on the tea, and river dues as well as other
enormous absurdities were to be levied on our mer-
chant ships riding under the guns, as well as the flag
of truce at Whampoa.

By those only who commanded the river could
those charges be levied. We were merely to be per-
mitted to pay the tax levied on the Hong merchants
to restore the fortifications, and afl'ord fresh sinews
for war, when it suited tlieni to renew hostilities !

1841.] TERMS OF TRUCE. 169

Some very warm discussions ensued amongst the
British merchants at Macao, many of whom would
most certainly have disdained countenancing such a
very questionable mode of commercial dealing. But
they were not solely British ; there was no such feel-
ing to deter foreigners from reaping a rich harvest,
to the injury of the British ; and the community did
not, in fact, unanimously possess high feelings upon
the question of " Tea or no tea." They were mostly
the agents of English houses, and, as they said, could
not allow their houses to suffer, to the manifest ad-
vantage of the foreigners.

Still, after all had been apparently settled, much
distrust prevailed on both sides; and although
the Chinese gradually began to return to their
shops, and teas began to be shipped, still offen-
sive edicts and chops (spurious as well as genuine)
were daily appearing, troops arriving, and hostile
intentions at no distant period very apparent.
Forty-six boats full of troops (capable of holding
one hundred and twenty each) passed the factory
in one day. The long-expected successors to Keshen,
the exterminating generals, Yihshan, Yang-fang, and
Lung-wan, were said to have arrived, and their
number stated to have increased to six. Still there
was no meeting between tJiem and Captain Elliot.
Indeed, all the official duties appeared to be trans-
acted by the celebrated go-between, the Quan"--
chow-foo (or chief magistrate of Canton) ; no meet-
ing was deigned to our plenipotentiary.

5

170 VISIT MACAO. [1841.

As I foresaw further work preparing for us, I lost
no time in making myself better acquainted with
the river, and hoped to find the famed Fatshan as a
second position for our next campaign. As it Avas
necessary I should repair to Macao for a short time, I
moved down to Whampoa, in order to ascertain
from the commodore what his further intentions
were respecting us, hut I was not a little surprised
to hear that I was too late ; that he had quitted for
Calcutta in one of the steamers, and that I must
now look to Sir Le Fleming Senhouse for instruc-
tions.

On my arrival at Macao, I found the Blenheim
there, and learned from Sir Fleming that it was expressly
ordered that I should be detained. He directed me
to retain the command at Macao, until my opera-
tions were concluded, and then to resume my exami-
nation of the river, as I might see fit.

Two officers of the Blenheim, Messrs. Toole and
Bligh, were going off to the ship at night in a small
cutter, when they were fallen on board of by pirates
or fishermen, and were supposed to be murdered. It
appears that they were in company with an English-
man who had charge of the cutter, and on the ves-
sel falling foul of them, either to save themselves, or
resent the affront, as they deemed it, they jumped into
the Chinese vessel, which falling clear, made off.
The body of one of them, Mr. Field, was afterwards
picked up in Carlisle Bay, near the barrier, and
bore marks of violence. Nothing had since been

1841.] OFFICERS OF BLENHEIM MISSING. 171

heard of the others. It is suspected to have been the
act of a notorious pirate belonging to Cum-sing-
moon.

On the 26th, the Melville sailed for England, fol-
lowed bj the Samarang, on the 29th, and the Madagas-
car and Queen for Calcutta, on the 31st. From Sir
Le Fleming Senhouse, I learned that the commodore
hoped to resume the command about the first week
in May, and that it was probable we should be required
for active service (to proceed to Amoy) on the 10th
of May, at which period he hoped I would rejoin him
at Hong-kong. Accompanied by Sir Hugh Gough,
he moved off in the Atalanta steamer, to arrange affairs
at Canton, rejoining the Blenheim (which sailed
next morning) at Hong-kong. The Jupiter sailed
at the same time for Singapore and Trincomalee,
for stores, troops, &c.

CHAPTER VI.

Examine the channels of the river — A fresh rupture — Treacherous
edict — Many boats and junks destroyed — Reconnoitre for
landing troops — Preparations for the advance on Canton —
Storm the heights — Camp deserted — Casualties — Truce — Me-
morial— Chinese vievF of aifairs — Memorial of Yishan to the
Emperor — Reception of the terms of truce — Death of Major
Beecher — Approach of the Chinese — The ransom paid — Pre-
mature death of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse — Commodore Sir J.
Gordon Bremer returns — Typhoon — The Plenipotentiaries in
the hands of the Chinese — Procure freedom by ransom.

174 PROCEED TO EXAMINE THE RIVER. [1841

CHAPTER VI.

On the 28tli April we quitted Macao with the
Starling in company, and moved up the river to the
Wang-tong Islands, the survey from that point up-
wards being entrusted to Lieutenant Kellett, of the
Starling, until we should meet again. We moved
up in the Sulphur to Macao Fort passage, when I
proceeded by boat to call on Captain Herbert at Can-
ton Factory, where our officers still maintained guard.
Nevertheless, the river extortions (dues I can no
longer call them) were duly paid to preserve peace.

I found every one extremely averse to my pro-
ceedings, and I fully believe that if I had not taken
the precaution to obtain special permission upon
every tittle of my intentions, from Captain Elliot,
(through Sir Fleming, and officially forwarded to me
for my guide,) I should have lost a golden harvest.
To prevent discussion, I took short leave, commenced
operations, and before sunset was out of sight in the
other arm, leading to Fatee Creek.

By this course I became prepared for further

1481.] MEET BOAT CONTAINING LADIES. 175

operations at Canton. A new scene was now open-
ing to us, and we commenced exploring what was
described as the main channel into the Broadway.
This would have satisfied me as well, but I knew
Fatshan was situated in that direction, and as the
general report was, that their cannon foundry, gun-
powder factory, as well as treasure, was at that
city, it became important to know how far we
could touch these most sensitive nerves by this
route, rather than by destroying the idol, "the
Golden Goose," (or in English the tea trade.)

During our examination of the Fatee Creek, (the
channel through which our division pushed to Can-
ton on the 18th,) we met numerous vessels moving
off in great haste from Canton. At lensfth a huo-e
mandarin ark came suddenly upon us, escorted by
five fast boats. The instant the man in command of
the ark discovered he was amongst the Philistines,
down flew his colours, and we had the satisfaction
of seeing the Ko-tou performed in the most accom-
plished manner. I really pitied the poor fellow, and
feared, if he beat his brains out on the deck, that
they might demand me, as the not remote cause of
his suicide. I perceived several very fair-skinned,
fine-featured, and gentlemanly mandarins within the
ark, and several very pretty and inquisitive females,
with white chaplets (probably camellias) on their
heads. In fact, it was a load of ladies. They were
in all probability being removed on account of the
extraordinary influx of soldiers. The mandarins did

176 CITY OF FATSHAN DISCOVERED. [1841.

not admire their curiosity, and pulled them away
from the apertures. My friends in the fast boats
passed quietly, when I bowed to one of the com-
manders, who civilly returned the salutation. We
repassed them again in the Fatshan Channel, but
they took one of the southern creeks, probably lead-
ing into the Broadway.

At the end of our second day's labour, our two ad-
vanced boats got sight of the city of Fatshan, esti-
mated at two and a half miles distant, and subtend-
ing an angle of forty-six degrees. Unfortunately,
this discovery was not made known until my re-
turn, which rendered further examination at that
period impossible, the period for the completion of
equally or more important portions of the river
being now too short. The Sulphur therefore moved
downwards on the 1st of May, and on the 6th
reached Tiger Island.

Two extensive creeks, apparently communicating,
behind the Anunghoy range, with Chuenpee, were
now to be examined. On the 6th, we passed in be-
hind Sawshee Hill, and returned by a creek about
two miles below it. On the 7th, we passed into
the Anunghoy Creek channel, communicating also
with that of yesterday, and came out at Junk Creek,
where the war junks were destroyed on the capture
of Chuenpee.

By these examinations, we determined that a flotil-
la, drawing from ten to twelve feet water, could have
proceeded to Canton by the back channels, entirely

1841.] CHANNELS BEHIND ANUNGHOY. 177

avoiding the batteries of the Bocca Tigris, as well as
that of Tiger Island.

Behind Anunghoy two very large towns are
situated, and we were informed that they have, about
three miles inland, a walled barrack, capable of ac-
commodating six thousand men. It is a species of
prison for pirates, and those under political surveil-
lance. It is said that the garrison of the Bogue was
sent there for punishment, as well as to prevent their
communicating their non-belligerent principles to
the valiant " rebel exterminators" about Canton.

On my former visit with one of the flags of truce,
sent to Anunghoy Fort, I noticed many poor mise-
rable creatures, who certainly were not fit to work
the guns ; and I was informed that they had impress-
ed the artisans of Canton to complete their force.

Two of the officers landed near the town to erect
marks, and although the crowd pressed about them,
they were civilly treated. Rain and bad weather
put an end to our operations. I therefore returned
to the Sulphur, and moved on to Macao, to rate
our chronometers, rejoining our senior officer at
Hong-kong, on the night of the 10th.

Sir Le Fleming Senhouse was delighted at our
success, little dreaming how soon the results of
these labours would be practically tested, and how
much to his gratification.

Preparations were immediately made to move on
the 12th for Amoy and the north, the force to consist
of H.M.S. Blenheim, Blonde, Sulphur, Hyacinth, Nim-

VOL. II. N

178 RESUME WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. [1841.

rod, Cruizer, Starling, Atalanta, and transports con-
taining our active and worthy general and the troops.
Everything went on swimmingly; we were anxious
to throw off the ennui resulting from late inaction;
but an ominous delay still hung over all. The mer-
chants, who were well aware that hostilities must
shortly be resumed at Canton, offered bets that Cap-
tain Elliot would not go to Amoy, and that the
squadron would not quit Canton river.

On the 14th the bubble burst, and another turn
was given to affairs : the Amoy expedition was ad-
journed, and orders issued to move again on Canton.

On the 18th the Sulphur moved up, and Sir
Fleming having consented to place the Blenheim
under my charge, I promised to put him, as well as
the Blonde and transports, in safe berths in sight of
Canton. It was therefore necessary to be in advance
and mark the dangers by Chinese boats, if they could
be secured, otherwise the boats of the squadron
Avould be brought in aid. The native pilots pursue
this method, as the channel for heavy ships is rather
serpentine.

Before advancing our force, it may be as well to
state the grounds of the present quarrel. In the
former armistice it was fully understood that any
attempts to re-arm the captured forts would be con-
sidered as an infraction of the truce. It was clearly
evident to every rational mind, that this had long-
been done, and moreover, that, in addition to the
supplies of guns and troops in vast quantity, formidable

1841.] CAUSES OF QUARREL. 179

batteries were erecting at all points, fire-rafts were
in preparation, and every act indicated immediate
war. Even the Chinese themselves saw that it could
no longer be concealed, and when they saw the
foreign merchants withdrawing their property, fear-
ful that they would escape their grasp, the following
edict was pasted up on the factories, as well as copies
furnished to the merchants.

"Yu, the acting prefect of Canton, issues this
edict for public information, in order to calm the
feeling of the merchants, and to tranquillize com-
mercial business. It appears that the detachments
of troops for Canton have all successively arrived ;
the laws for the army, however, are very strict, and
without being commissioned, soldiers can never move
about to create disturbance. Still it is feared that, as
the military hosts are gathered in clouds, the mer-
chants of all nations here engaged in commerce,
hearing thereof, will tremble with alarm, not know-
ing where things will end. Some, frightened out of
their wits, may abandon their goods and secretly go
away ; and others may not know whether to expect
quiet or danger, while all cherish their fearful appre-
hensions. Those foreign merchants who are re-
spectfully obedient, are viewed noways different
from the children of the Celestial Dynasty ; and the
imperial commissioner, and general pacificator of the
rebels, and the high ministers and joint commis-
sioners, with their excellencies the governor and
lieutenant-governor, managing all things with due

N 2

180 EDICTS. [1841.

consideration, assuredly will not involve the good
and the uj)right in trouble. These merchants, being
respectfully obedient, ought to be protected from
all injury, and the goods which they have brought
with them ought also to be preserved in safety. It
is, therefore, right to issue this edict for full infor-
mation. And, accordingly, this is published for the
assurance of the merchants of every country trading
at Canton : to you who have always been respect-
fully obedient, and long enjoyed our commerce, the
high officers of the celestial dynasty, in fulfilling the
gracious pleasure of his imperial majesty towards
foreigners, will give full protection to the utmost of
their strength. Should native robbers and bandits
come out to plunder or molest you, they shall be
punished with increased severity; and any goods
carried off* shall be restored, so that the smallest
loss shall not be sustained. And you, the said
foreign merchants, ought also on your part to remain
quiet in your lawful pursuits, continuing your trade
as usual, without alarm or suspicion : but joining
with the disturbed affairs will give occasion for sub-
sequent repentance. A special edict."

Here was duplicity ! Here stand forth the cha-
racters of the high officers, the 61ite of the honoura-
ble men of China, ministers and generals, fully bent
on entrapping every foreigner on whom they could
lay their hands. Captain Elliot forthwith issued the
following circular :

" In the present situation of circumstances, her

1841.] HOSTILITIES COMMENCED. 181

Britannic Majesty's plenipotentiary feels it his duty
to recommend that the British and other foreig'ners
now remaining in the factories should retire from
Canton before sunset.

(Signed) " C. Elliot, H.B.M. Plenipotentiary.

"British Factory, 2\st Mmj, 1841."

This was followed by fire-rafts, sent down on the
Alligator off the remains of Howqua's fort ; and, as
customary, a general discharge of cannon, making
much noise, but without injury, at least to the
British. The Louisa tender and Aurora private
schooner, anchored off the factories, escaped from
guns as well as fire-rafts, by the exertions of the
advanced squadron.

On the morning of the 22nd, a boat belonging to
the Morrison, (American ship,) with four seamen,
mate, and three passengers, quitted with " a chop,"
but were fired on, brought to, and carried into the
city : all were wounded, and one was said to have
been killed.

In the morning the Modeste, Pylades, and Algerine,
accompanied by the Nemesis steamer, punished Sha-
meen fort, after which the boats of the squadron,
assisted by the Nemesis, moved up the creek towards
Neishang, and committed sad havoc amongst their
junks, which were evidently laden with guns for the
new fortifications, some weighing four or five tons.
Thirty-nine junks, smacks, and fire-boats were burnt.

The Chinese then attacked the factories, particu-

182 BLENHEIM ANCHORED. [1841.

larly those on the British side of Hog Lane, making a
perfect wreck of the beautiful pier-glasses, chapel, &c.
On the 20th, the Blenheim reached Tiger Island.
On the follo\^ing morning she moved to the second
bar, and anchored ; when, having placed the boats of
the Sulphur, Blenheim, and Starling, in their positions,
she weighed, and I took her in tow with the Atalanta
steamer. The day was beautiful, and everything
favoured us. Passing the first bar by the New or
" Victoria Channel," I placed the Blenheim in a free
swinging berth, five miles above the first bar, in
sight of the advanced squadron and the city of
Canton, and nine miles direct from the factory. I
could have carried her three miles higher, where
several of the deep transports were afterwards placed ;
but although a safe berth could have been found,
it was important to carry the transports there, and
therefore not risk, on a falling tide, choking the
channel, should she touch. I then brought up the
Blonde, and afterwards the heavy transports, includ-
ing the Marion, with Sir Hugh Gough, and Head-
Quarters.

The remainder were left to the guidance of the
officers of the Sulphur, and Mr. Brown, master of
the Calliope. This part of my duty being completed,
and some doubts arising relative to the actual points
of terra firma on which the land force could act
against Canton, I immediately requested "to be
allowed to put the matter beyond doubt by a de-
cided reconnoissance."

1841.] EXAMINE NEISHANG CREEK. 183

This being acceded to, and the Sulphur hav-
ing already moved up to the squadron off Canton,
orders were issued for each of the advanced squadron
to furnish an armed boat, which, with the launch of
the Druid, under the command of my staunch sup-
porter. Lieutenant Goldsmith, (first of that ship,) and
the boat force of the Sulphur and Starling, advanced
on this duty about nine a. m., the morning following.

As my attention would in all probability be en-
tirely bent on the reconnoissance, and I might even
be detached for a time, the whole division was placed
under the command of Lieutenant Goldsmith, acting
under me. The first part of my instructions di-
rected me to collect sufficient tea-boats, or other
large boats, for the conveyance of two thousand men,
should I fall in with them. I therefore pulled up
close on the Fatee side, and turned ten, capable of
holding one hundred and twenty each, into the
stream, calculating that with the ebb-tide they would
soon drop down on our squadron ; a cutter, one of our
division, was also detached to watch them, and returned
as we reached the creek, where the Nemesis and boats
had yesterday had their amusement. The junks
were still smoking, and «,midships in each we
noticed at low water the huge guns intended for the
use of the exterminating army. We little dreamed
of anything remaining for us to do, although I had
my suspicions. _< '

On reaching Neishang, where the Nemesis termi-
nated her work yesterday, we noticed two flotillas of

184 CAPTURE OF FAST BOATS. [1841.

fast boats, brave as usual ; their numbers probably,
together, about forty. As I had begun to learn that
these gentry would give us a heavy tug at chasing, I
determined to use stratagem. Just opposite to
Neishang the stream forks ; one branch to the left,
leading towards the west, and probably rejoining the
main stream ; the other to Tsingpoo. As I noticed
the flood setting on the angle, I knew chat if I
could get one division within the influence of the
Tsingpoo stream, I could secure their capture by
cutting direct for the angle. One division most
assuredly kept command of that to the westward, in
order to ensure escape.

Our boats having come up and formed at the
last burned junk at Neishang, the enemy, mistaking
the reservation of our fire, assumed a more hostile
attitude, and passed the rubicon. Our fire opened,
and faster than my pen could state the facts, we
found ourselves in possession of fifteen fast boats, five
war junks, and several row boats, carrying from four
to six gingals each, and amounting in all to twenty-
eight vessels. One of the largest fast boats, rowing
sixty oars and armed with two brass six-pounders in
the bow, and eight gingals, was preserved as a trophy ;
the remainder were burnt.

Moving on, we landed at the temple of Tsingpoo,
where a sand battery of five guns had been erected.
The guns were thrown into the sea, and the battery
reduced to a level.

As my war operations had now ceased, I turned the

1841.] RECONNOISSANCE. 185

command over to Lieutenant Goldsmith, directing
him to see the vessels completely destroyed. The
enemy, who had retreated to the brow of the range
which overlooked the river by eighty feet, annoyed
us occasionally from their gingals, but were repaid
with interest by grape from the boat's carronades.

As nothing could be seen from the river, and
without a distinct attack on the heights by our
whole force we could not effect our object of re-
connoitre, I determined on trying, in the first in-
stance, how far I could effect my object from the
masthead of a junk. One particularly adapted to
this service lay immediately in front of where I
suspected the enemy to be encamped in force. Ac-
cordingly I went on board her, and luckily finding
her geer rove was hoisted to her masthead, (above
one hundred feet,) sextant in hand, and to my de-
light, obtained a comj)lete view of the whole country
between the temple and the batteries on the heights.
As I suspected, the enemy were encamped just
Avithin the verge of the hill. I have not the
slightest doubt but they would have fled on our
rising the hill.

It had quite escaped my recollection that I had
ordered all the junks to be burned ; my attention
was deeply engaged elsewhere, and on my descent,
I found a fierce fire raging beneath me. After
adding fliel to help it, I quitted, but had not moved
more than one hundred yardf^, when she blew up

186 RETURN TO BLENHEIM. [1841.

with a grand explosion, and sunk but remained with
her masts standing, thus effectually securing this
position. Off and alongside the temple, I found
four and a half fathoms at low water, and by our
survey downwards, became fully satisfied that the
Sulphur could, with care, be brought to support the
troops, and serve as a rendezvous.

Our operations in this neighbourhood being com-
plete, we moved out, taking with us, in addition to
our fast boats, a state mandarin (house) boat, which
served me well as a cabin for the next twenty-four
hours. Crossing over to the creek above Fatee, we
extracted three fine boats from thence, one a salt
vessel, capable of holding a whole regiment ; it was
immediately named " Noah's Ark" by the sailors.

These were towed down. Captain Barlow of the
Nimrod had also secured several others by the divi-
sion under his command, all of which were sent
down to the Blenheim that evening.

Aware of the anxiety of Sir Fleming to know the
result of my mission, I moved on immediately, and
reached the Blenheim at half past eleven that night.
Sir Fleming was reported to be in bed, but was
sitting in his easy chair, and when I entered, he
observed, " Well, Captain Belcher, I thought I was
right in sitting up for you."

The report delighted him beyond measure, and
his anxiety to communicate it to the General out-
stepped the fear of disturbing his slumbers. A

1841.] ADVANCE TO TSINGPOO. 187

boat was immediately despatched. A bed had been
23repared for me in the cabin of the Blenheim, but I
preferred returning to a nap on board my mandarin
boat.

At dawn I rejoined Sir Fleming, and volun-
teered my services to number and distribute the
troops to the boats, and as it was the anniversary of
her Majesty's birth, we hoped to commence action that
day. I was immediately despatched to the General,
who ordered Major Beecher, the Quarter-master
General, to accompany me forthwith. This service
being complete before ten o'clock, and expecting
the steamers to be shortly at my heels, towing the
troops, I took my leave with carte blanche from
Sir Fleming "to place the Sulphur where I wished."
The corvette squadron off Canton would otherwise
have been under my command, but Sir Fleming
having determined to accompany the general, and
placing me on his staff, I preferred the more active
appointment. My good friend Captain Warren,
of the Hyacinth, therefore became senior officer off
Canton.

On reaching the Sulphur, I found the ships
dressed with ensigns at the mastheads, which was
shortly followed by the rolling roar of a royal salute
in honour of her Majesty's birth-day. But few mi-
nutes were lost there. Ordering the Sulphur to
weigh, I visited Captain Warren, gave him the
orders from Sir Le Fleming Senhouse to be pre-
pared to take up their positions at two, and moving

188 SULPHUR ANCHORS AT TSINGPOO. [1841.

thence to our Plenipotentiary on board the Louisa
cutter, informed him of my intentions, &c. The
civil community deemed me mad ; several had see?i
the river dty across, and I was set down as " cracked,"
at least.

The Sulphur, under all canvass, with her ensigns
still displayed, soon picked me up, and to the confu-
sion of the overwise, soon disappeared amongst the
trees. She touched, but soon moved on, and at
four p. M. was safely anchored alongside the temple
of Tsingpoo.

Parties were immediately employed to clear the
temples for the accommodation of the troops. A
fine fat buck, found within the walls of the temple
gardens, was sentenced to death by drum-head
court-martial, and turned over to the cook, as ground-
work for a hot supper.

I then proceeded to the heights with a party of
seamen, and found the enemy had decamped, and
that nothing to oppose us was near. Look-out
men were then stationed at the mastheads, and
preparations were made to receive the general and
our naval commander-in-chief, who were observed
approaching in the Nemesis, with troop-boats in tow.

About sunset, the troops commenced disembark-
ing fi'om the junks or tea-boats, in order to relieve
the pressure. The General, Sir Le Fleming Sen-
house, and the staff, supported by a strong J)arty,
advanced to the position lately occujjied by the enemy's
encampment. It was too late to see anything, yet

1841.] LAND THE TROOPS. 189

at the same time it was necessary to have command
of the heights, in case of any extraordinary exhibi-
tions of valour during the night.

During the time we remained there, the Chinese
set up a few yells, and burnt a species of Roman
candle, the balls of which served to show us in
position. I suspect them to be j)art of the stores
of the fast boats ; if so, they are constructed of
bamboos of two inches internal bore, and intended
to point at those attempting to board ; probably
expecting that a fire ball in the face might damp
their ardour.

In the midst of this, our attention was arrested
by sounds which Ave mistook for the cries of a
Chinaman under punishment, or in distress cer-
tainly ; but they passed unnoticed, and utter dark-
ness prevented our seeing many yards around us.
On the morning following, it proved to have been
the cries of one of the camp followers, who had gone
to a pond for water, and having been caught by the
Chinese, was then undergoing decapitation.

The fireworks having ceased, and quietness pre-
vailing, an additional force arrived, and the General
having given his orders for the night, we retired to the
Sulphur, where, having done justice to the mandarin
venison, the chiefs retired for the night. An alarm
was sounded about midnight, and in a few seconds
we were on shore. The exact cause was never
ascertained, but I believe that it arose from a
pig having made a desperate sally upon the "piled

190 ADVANCE ON CANTON. [1841.

arms," and thus created great confusion. Had they
seen his tail, they might easily have determined
that he was not a Chinaman. Indeed, they take
very great precaution not to permit such a handle
to be dangling " on service."

Sir Le Fleming Senhouse having joined the staff,
the command of the marine battalion was given to
Captain Bourchier, of H.M.S. Blonde, having under
him Captain Maitland, (Wellesley,) Captain Barlow,
(Nimrod,) with their lieutenants of divisions.

Having made a hearty venison breakfast at the
expense of the god of jDhysic, (the lord of the manor
of Tsingpoo temple,) and the remainder of the force
having disembarked, we met the general at our
last night's position, and before eight we were on
the advance. Only a few straggling parties of the
enemy were noticed, and these in great disorder,
and probably not belonging to their regular army.

They occasionally exhibited in pantomimic ges-
ture the bravest of the brave, and intended us to
believe they were anxious for closer acquaintance.

The first brigade was formed of the 49th and 37th
regiments, with a detachment of Bengal volunteers ;
the second of the royal and Madras artillery, sap-
pers and miners. The corps of seamen formed the
third brigade in the right column. The ordnance
was intended to consist of four twelve-pounder
howitzers ; four nine-pounder field-guns ; four five-
and-a-half-inch mortars; fifty-two thirty-two-pounder-
rockets, and two light six-pounders.

1841.] ATTACK THE HEIGHTS. 191

The left column consisted of the 18tli royal Irish,
26th Cameronians, a detachment of Madras ar-
tillery engineers and sappers, with a six-pounder,
and a five-and-a-half-inch mortar. The royal ar-
tillery had also their rocket-frames with nine-
pounder rockets, as well as a few musket rockets.

Our progress was not rapid, as the lines of road
had to be examined before adopted, and guns were
but slowly advanced. About nine o'clock, we had
advanced to the first joss-house within reach of what
were afterwards termed the seamen's batteries,
Kung-kik-tai, or " fortress of extreme protection,"
and here the rockets were in excellent distance.
The enemy threw the shot over our heads without
injury to our party, and their grape-shot constantly
dropped amongst us, but without damage, being
merely spent balls.

I found I had by some means distanced the Ge-
neral and Sir Le Fleming, and a message from the
General to the artillery, to direct the guns on a bat-
tery to the left, was the first intimation that he
had taken a different route. We had no guns, but
about this moment Lieut. Wood, of the Sulphur,
reported to me that he had, by the exertions of a
detachment of the Sulphur's crew, brought uj) one
of the twelve-pounder howitzers and the nine-pounder
field-piece was following. This gun was immedi-
ately turned over to Captain Anstruther, of the
Madras artillery, who in a few minutes did good

192 BATTERIES ON HEIGHTS CAPTURED. [1841.

service, clearing the battery above us, as well as
completely fulfillino- the General's intentions.

About this moment, I observed the General, with
the 18th and 49th under Colonel Morris, as-
cending- the hills in front. Thinking that the
enemy would, in all probability, retreat down the
gorge, I determined to make my advance to rejoin
by that route, and was moving forward, when Cap-
tain Elliot requested convoy, which was of course
granted. We very soon found that we had not
selected the best road for the safety of the jjleniiDo-
tentiary, and under a general salute of every species
of arms from the whole face of Canton walls, we
reached our friends at the Hill Fort, Pou-kik-tai, or
" Extreme Security," without accident.

This work, a large square stone battery, having
embrasures on each side, and an interior turret
mounting nine guns, had always been one of my
principal objects in the survey of the river, and
therefore became doubly interesting. It is situated
on a very steep mound, overlooking the walls of
Canton, and within accurate musket shot, the space
between, forming a very deep natural ravine or ditch.
It is also within musket shot of the " Five-story
Pagoda."

As the enemy continued to annoy us much from a
three-gun battery immediately in front, I com-
menced upon them with two of their own six-pounder
guns, from the turret, and found them carry pretty
truly with half char (je of their own cartridges, — which

1841.] CAPTAIN BOURCHIER's DIVISION. 193

are each about eighteen inches in length ! But as
the balls from the gingals flew very thick, and Sir
Le Fleming thought that our men ought scarcely to
be risked for the damage that might be done to one
or two Chinese, the fire was discontinued.

A small cohorn, under the direction of a young
officer of the Madras artillery, (just arrived in time
to share in the affair,) proved very effective ; his first
debut on service was to throw several shells very
beautifully ; the third blew up a large magazine, in
rear of our friend the three-gun battery, and for a
time reduced the annoyance from that quarter ; but
during the night they rested not.

At the same instant that the troops stormed their
forts, the blue-jacket division, under their worthy
leader Captain Bourchier, gallantly carried the two
batteries assigned to them, (Fortresses of Perpetual
Bliss, and Everlasting Security.) But they were less
fortunate in quarters, as being nearer the lines, and
quite unprotected, the enemy kept up a well-directed
fire upon one spot, of which they doubtless previously
knew the range. The six-pounder, under the com-
mand of the Hon. Lieutenant Spenser, R. A., was
sent to their assistance, and they managed to rejiay
their ciAdlities ; not, however, before Lieutenant Fox
and Mr. Kendal, mate, both of H. M. S. Nimrod, had
each lost a leg, and several seamen were severely
wounded. The former expired shortly after the
operation of amputation above the wound.

Hardly had the troops regained their wind,

VOL. II. o

194 ATTACK ON NORTHERN CAMP. [1841.

(dreaming little of further operations,) when the
reserve was directed to attack the entrenched
camp outside of the N. E. gate. As this position
was out of range from our battery, and the advance
exposed to the whole of that line of city wall, it was
at once perceived that this was to be a lesson to the
Celestials how little we cared for them in the field.*

The enemy had taken up numerous scattered po-
sitions, with gingals placed in the paddy fields,
from which they could, almost unseen, or, as bad,
unnoticed, being in pairs only, completely gall the
advancing party. Those in the camp were waving
their banners, and inviting their opponents to ad-
vance, with every imaginable gesticulation. At
double quick time, forward dashed our friends the
Royal Irish, and in a few moments the theatricals
were ended. " Sauve qui pent !" I suppose to have
been the order of the Chinese general, and most
obedient they proved. I do not believe an opponent
was found after the troops entered the encamp-
ment.

It was beautifully done, and beautifully followed
up ; no confusion — no helter-skelter plundering,
which we had before been disgusted with ; but the
troops were formed coolly in their new barrack-yard
pro tern., and parties were employed to execute the
duty of destruction. The customary trophies of
course were not left behind, and shortly, in the same

* It was generally remarked by the Chinese, that if they once
got us on terra firma, the chances of war would be reversed.

1841.] VESSELS ATTACKED BY CHINESE. 195

military style, they quitted the demolished camp on
their return. All this we witnessed and enjoyed
from head-quarters.

On this duty, four officers and several men were
severely wounded. Colonel Morris, of the 49th,
commanded this service, and brought away the gene-
ral's horse, most magnificently caparisoned. Why
did not the general fly on his back ? Probably they
make a point of leaving enough behind to rescue
their carcasses.

The enemy continued to worry us by their firing
during the whole night, but ^^dthout damage to any
person ; but suddenly in the morning their fire slack-
ened, and at daylight had entirely ceased. The first
despatch from " tJie Blues'' acquainted us with the
death of Lieutenant Fox, who did not rally after
amputation.

At the time these operations were going on, an
attack was made by a party at the beach, but was
repulsed by the seamen under the command of Mr.
Goss, acting master of the SuljDhur, assisted by de-
tachments of marines, and troops.

I suspect the Chinese paid dearly for this freak.
As this disposition rendered the village behind the
temple too dangerous a redoubt in our rear, it was
directed to be destroyed.

On the morning of the 26th, it was eagerly ex-
pected that we should escalade the walls of Canton ;
but as it was deemed important to bring up further
supplies of rockets and carcasses, as well as ammuni-

o 2

196 TRUCE. [1841.

tion, a party was desimtched for this purpose to the
Blenhehn. Had it been possible to foresee events,
doubtless the British colours would have been flying
on the walls at dawn.

In the afternoon a flag of truce was displayed on
the city walls, when I was deputed to accompany
Brigadier-General Burrell, with Mr. Thorn, inter-
preter, to ascertain the cause, and their object ; at
the same time to acquaint them " that no interview
would be granted but to their commander- in-chief, and
then outside the city walls, and further, that no terms
but those of submission would be listened to." Time
was afforded them until half-jjast three, at which
period hostilities would be resumed. At the expira-
tion of that period no one came ; and at a later pe-
riod we would not listen to them.

Early on the morning of the 27th, the flag was
again displayed, as well as another of larger dimen-
sions. I was again sent up to the wall, with Captain
Gough, the General's aide-de-camp ; there was much
repetition of yesterday's work, and nothing done.
Towards sunset a letter was presented, but as they
offered it for Captain Elliot, and he was on the sea
side of Canton, they were desired to take it to the
ships of war.

During the morning, the General and Sir Le Flem-
ing Senhouse held a parley, under the city wall, with
a red-buttoned and peacock-feathered mandarin, (who
stated himself to be the General,) l)ut w ithout effect,
although many compliments were exchanged. It

1841.] MEMORIAL OF YISHAN TO THE EMPEROR. 197

will be seen by the following memorial to what pur-
pose this was converted.

Memorial from Yishan and his colleagues to the empe-
ror, concerning the capture of the forts and height
above Canton.

" This day, the 14th day of the fourth moon, (3rd
June, 1841,) we, the great rebel-quelling General
Yishan, and the Lieutenant-Generals Lungwan and
Yangfang, respectfully take all the facts relating to
the English foreigners making an attack on the pro-
vincial city with their ships, and that we exerted
ourselves to the utmost, leading on our soldiers to
defend the same, which happily has escaped without
much damage : and after considering the whole state
of affairs, how that we have adopted certain tempo-
rary measures, suited to the exigencies of the case
and having for their object, our being able in future
to maintain the place : all these facts we now re-
spectfully embody in the present memorial, looking
upwards, and hoping that it will obtain a sacred
glance. Your slaves already, on the sixth day of the
present moon, (28th May, 1841,) took all the details
of what had occurred up to that date, and duly for-
warded them as recorded.

"The city of Canton stands at the foot of a hill called
Kwangin Shan, while its front extends to the banks
of the great river. To the north-west is the depart-
ment of Shaonking-foo, and to the north are the les-

198 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

ser districts of Nanheung Cliori, Leencliow, &c., &c.,
all of whose merchants and travellers come to the
provincial city by several branches of the river, which
passes by Fatee, and afterlvard mingle their waters
with the great ocean.

" From the time that the foreign ships forced their
way into the provincial river, they stationed a
great many vessels, (at the most important points,)
and thus grasped the very throat and windpipe of
our communication. The eastern branch by Leetein,
(neighbourhood of Howqua's Folly,) and the western
branch by Taou Hwang Kaon, (Macao passage,) both
communicate with Whampoa, and thence to Bocca
Tigris : there are many arms of the sea flowing in
different directions : the creeks, inlets, and outlets,
most multifarious ; during the floods, the whole
country is under water, and there is no important
]iass where a garrison might be placed for defence.
Moreover, the fields are cramped and narrow ; it is
not easy to find a place to pitch a camp ; the hills on
the north command the city, so that one may look
down and see everything going on within ; and the
foreigners were constantly in the habit of l)rying and
spying ; forsooth it was no easy matter to prevent
them.

"Having previously prepared our means of attack by
fire at Neishing, fifteen leagues from the city, in which we
used rafts of wood floated down from Kwangse, and
quantities of paddystraw brought from Kinshan, and
other places in the lesser districts of Sanshway, we

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. 199

despatched several special messengers, in order to have
them bound and proi3eiiy placed, (to drift on the
foreign ships.) But these said foreigners, having
found out, for the second time, that our fire-rafts
were about ready, drew the sword, and commenced
the war from the first of the moon. The rebels
sent their ships' boats* secretly to sound and get in-
formation, but they were beaten back by the oflScers
and soldiers of the garrison, who opened upon them
a fire of great guns and matchlocks. So it was
until the fifth day, (Tuesday, 25th May,) when thirty-
eight sail of foreign ships rushed up in a body and
attacked the city ; and at the same time, (another
body of the rebels) proceeded in steamboats to Nei-
shing, and opened their fire upon it. A number of
native traitors, dressed like sailors, in the confusion,
got into our ships, which were filled with paddy
straw, and set fire to them right and left, and
burned the greater part of the fuel in the rear of our
troops. These native traitors then swam on shore,
and proceeded by land to our rear, and thus Neishing,
being simultaneously attacked on three points, could
hold out no longer.

" At this time, the river being blocked up (by the
enemy), there were no means of forwarding any com-
munication ; those who hurried onwards to work the
guns had no way of getting there, and those who had
previously gone to hasten the arrival (of other guns),
had no way of getting them transported to the city.

* Were these tlic Sul})lmr's boats ?

200 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

" As regards stores for the soldiers, though we had
abundance of corn heaped up in our granaries, which
we could have ground at any time, yet the food and
rice of the common peojDle is all brought from the
country round about : thus, in making a stout defence
of the city, the merchant could never dispose of his
wares; and what would be worse, the people could
not without difficulty procure their daily food. Add
to this, that the roar of the cannon was unceasing, the
people of the new city, (south side,) one following
the example of the other, all moved into the old city,
(north side,) and there they had a struggle. Such a
state of things could not last long before the supply
would become exhausted, and then the anger of the
multitude would be quite irrepressible ! We humbly
think that the important i)OSt of the provincial city
concerns the whole province ; should it be lost by
any remissness, then the thieves and vagabonds of
every district would avail themselves of the oppor-
tunity, and rise in swarms like so many wasps !
Moreover, an organized army (though disbanded)
may be reassembled ; in marching troops through the
country, numerous opportunities jDresent themselves
for selecting important passes, and engaging the
enemy at advantage : but there is no principle by
which we may abandon the provincial city to its
fate ; if the city hold out, or if it be lost, and for us
to perish along with it, does not appear to be the
plan best suited to the welfare of the country ! We
your slaves have again reflected on all the circum-

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR, 201

stances of the case, and are compelled to confess
that we found ourselves at our wit's end.

" Having previously examined the site of the city,
and found that the forts on the north were small and
cramped in their construction, and could not contain
many soldiers, we could only select our best troops,
and station them on the northern quarter, placing
some guns there, that they might make a stout de-
fence. Thus they waited until the foreigners, having
landed from their ships at Neishing, were pushing
straight forward to the north side of the city, when
our men opened a thundering fire, and killed more
than ten of the foreign rebels, and upwards of a
hundred of the native traitors. The said foreig-ners
upon this retired to the heights above the town, and
the forts remained in their possession ; it being now
dark, we drew off our troops within the city. Thus
matters went on till the seventh day of the moon
(Thursday, 27th May,) when the whole of the inhabi-
tants of the city came rushing in crowds, and pre-
sented petitions, begging and praying that we would
take measures to save their lives, and at the same
time the soldiers on duty at the embrasures reported
that they had seen the foreigners beckoning with
their hands towards the city, as if they had something
to communicate.* We thereupon immediately ordered

* All this is founded on the notice taken of the flag of truce,
and proves the wihness of these people. Formerly the flag
was fired on ; yet now they have ascertained its power to suspend

202 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

the brigadier Hemig Say-shing, to mount the city
wall, and look. He saw several ' barbarian eyes,'*
pointing to heaven and earth, but could not make
out what they said. He forthwith called a linguist,
to inquire what they wanted, when it appears they
said that they begged the great general to come
out, as they had some hardships to complain of to
him ; upon this, the commanding officer, (or tsang-
ping,) Twan Yangfuh, said to them in an angry tone,
' How can the great general of the celestial dynasty
come out to see such as you ? He has come here by
command of the great emperor, and he knows
nothing more about you than to fight with you!'
Upon this the said barbarians took off their hats and
made a bow ; then they sent away the people Avho
were about them, and casting their weapons on the
ground, performed an obeisance towards the city
wall. Twan Yangfuh, — having previously got per-
mission from us your slaves to do so, — then asked
them what grievances they had to complain of, which
caused them to resist the forces of the central land,
and conduct themselves so madly and rebelliously on
many occasions. They, in course, replied that they,

0{)erations until it suits their purpose to renew hostilities ; and
they do not admit in any shape in their memorial that it was
displayed on either side. The taking off the hat, which the
o-eneral did in courtesy, as a salutation, when he was apprized
that Yang was the person speaking from the walls, has heeu
prettily twisted.

* llijrh characters.

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. 203

the English, coald not carry on their trade, that their
goods were not being consumed, that their capital was
wasting away, and that their debts were not being re-
paid them : and that as both parties were firing off
their great guns on the side of the new city, they had
no means of making a communication there, and
therefore they had come to this side, to beg the
chief general that he would iniijlore the great em-
peror in their behalf, that he would have mercy
upon them, and cause their debts to be repaid them,
and graciously permit them to carry on their com
merce, when they would immediately withdraw their
ships from the Bocca Tigris, and deliver up all the
forts they had taken, and never dare again to raise
any disturbance, and other words to that effect.
And at the same time all the Hong merchants
handed in a petition, stating that ' the whole body
of the foreign merchants had authorized them to
say for them, that they wanted to carry on trade
as before,'* and to have the debts cleared off which
have been owing to them for many years, when they
would immediately take all their ships of war, and
withdraw them beyond the Bocca Tigris,' &c. Your
slaves, having taken an enlarged view of the ques-
tion, and duly weighed and deliberated thereon,
came to the conclusion that the defences of the
Bocca Tigris being already lost, those within, and
those without had alike no place of strength to de-
pend upon, and it would be better to grant their
* The old story against Captain Elliot.

204 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

terms, and thus save the city from its perilous situation,
and reanimate the drooping spirit of its inhabitants,
rather than continue a struggle which was jeopardiz-
ing the many millions of lives of the whole province,
and which mio^ht not have a successful result after
all. On summing up the pecuniary resources of
the single province of Canton, we find that its cus-
tom-house duties and land-taxes do not yield less
than three millions of taels annually ; and if we
could only get these foreign claims cleared off, in
the course of a few years the province would re-
cover itself; whereas, if we sit idly w^aiting for a
long time, perhaps some unlooked for calamity may
overtake us, when not only will it be impossible for
the province to recover itself, but it wall be involved
in vast expense, thrown into utter confusion, and
the common jieople of the land, who are the very
essence of the land itself, should they meet the poi-
sonous influence (of a foreign war), the consequences
might be very grave indeed. Therefore, it was that
after maturely deliberating together, we despatched
the Quang-chow-foo, Ya Paoushun to do the best he
could, and, in accordance wdth the request of the
merchants, to grant for the time being the favour
of carrying on commercial relations to all countries
on the same footing ; thus viewing the recovery of
the people from their state of destitution as the ob-
ject of primary importance.

" Commerce is to these said foreigners the very
artery of life. Let us wait quietly till the foreign

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. 205

ships of war have retired, and the native traitors
are dispersed, when, beginning with the river in
front of the city, and continuing the work down to
the Bocca Tigris itself, at every important pass we
shall block up the course of the river with piles of
stones, and there erect forts and place guns : and
thus, having secured the door of entrance, we shall
have ample means to oppose their progress, and
maintain our defences. And finally, having thus
our gripe on their thrapple, should they ever dare
again to give rein to their outrageous conduct, we
can in a moment stop their commerce : this, then,
is a mode of governing them which is always in
our hands. These facts relating to the late attack
on this city, and the temporary expedient which we
have adopted in the exigencies of the case, we now
respectfully unite with the other memorials which
we have sent up successively, and humbly hope that
a holy glance may be cast upon them, and the sacred
will in course manifested."

In the terms agreed upon, it was fully understood
that the city was spared : and that until the general
question, of the demands made by our Government on
the Court of Pekin was fully settled, any attempt
to re-arm would be considered an act of hostilitv,
and meet with immediate punishment. Yet they
have fully carried out the first part of their threat,
and very shortly will prevent shij^ping coming above
the second bar. It has now but four fathoms at high

206 CHANNELS BLOCKED UP. [1841.

water, and the channel can very easily be blocked,
as the water has free escape westerly by the base of
the second bar pagoda.

SUPPLEMENTARY MEMORIAL TO THE PRECEDING.

" Further, your slaves, Yishan, Lungwan, and
Yangfang, received your sacred Majesty's special
commands to lead a body of troops to Canton, to
attack and exterminate the English rebels : and
your slaves Ahtsingal, (the Tartar general of
the garrison,) Ke Kung, (the viceroy,) Eleang, (the
lieutenant-governor,) and Yusoy, (the too-tung or
Tartar lieutenant-general,) had alike with us a
share of the responsibility of holding out the pro-
vincial city ; there was not a day that we did not
consider how we might massacre utterly this hateful
brood, thereby manifestinxj the majesty of heaven,
(i. e. China,) and (jladdenimj the hearts of men. How
then should we dare to act (apparently) in opposition
to such sentiments, and bring forward plans for tem-
porary expedients ? Alas ! this arose wholly from
tlie necessity of our position ; we could not possibly
help it. And we cannot do otherwise than lay
before the holy lord the feelings of bitterness that
now swell our bosoms.

" There are eight serious difficulties in the way
of defending the city of Canton from attack, which
your slave Yangfting, on a previous occasion, laid
before your Majesty in a secret memorial ; and
when Ave, your slaves Yihshan and Lungwan, arrived

1841.] MEMORIAL OF YISHAN TO THE EMPEROR. 207

afterwards in Kwanghing, we found that on the
rio-ht side and on the left, the throats of our com-
munications were already in the hands of the enemy.
" On going up the stream of time, we find that
Canton has carried on commercial intercourse with
all foreign countries for about two hundred years.
The natives of Canton most thoroughly know the
disj^ositions of the foreigners and their likings ; the
people who dwell on the coast, such as the fisher-
men, and the boat people, those who constantly
come and go with the tide through our military
stations, are all in league with them, and understand
their language ; these are greedy after gain and fond
of strife. Love of country (of the Natale Solum)
hangs loosely about them ; therefore it is that
the foreigners do not grudge expense to get them
into their employment, and consequently their
hearts are turned against their masters, while they
are dead to us ; they obey their foreign masters in
all things, they convey the most secret inteUigence,
and there is nothing, in short, that they may not be
induced to do ! Although we have already caught
several, and immediately executed them, yet the
traces of others being obliterated in a great com-
mercial vortex like this, there is really no way of
distinguishing them. A still worse feature is, that
there are those who falsely make soldiers' dresses,
and imitate the badges, and enter our ranks as if
they were going to battle. These perhaps run away
at the first onset, (to spread a panic among our

208 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

men,) or they attack and wound our officers and
soldiers! Their villanies are quite innumerable;
so much so, that many of them are positive spies in
our very camp ! In this late affair we secretly
caught several, and after decapitating them, we
exposed their heads to the people by way of warning.

" On a previous occasion, your majesty's slave
Eleang, during the second moon, (i. e. after the fall
of the Bogue,) had proclamations cut out and
printed, in which he assured them, that what was
past and gone, would be pardoned, and promised
them wealth and honours if they would reform and
exert themselves. Your slaves also again and a
third time issued proclamations, exhorting them to
renovate themselves, and promising most handsome
rewards, and yet those of them who returned to
their allegiance were few indeed.

" Again, our great guns by sea and land being
already lost, and we having no others to replace
them, our vessels of war being without sailors to
man them, our land troops, whenever they approached
the bank of the river to repel the enemy, being
met by the fire of the foreigners, which was fierce
in the extreme, those defences which we depended
upon, such as mounds of earth, sand bags, cotton
waste, and cowhides, though built up more than a
chang (three yards) thick, being shot through, our
soldiers had not a spot left them where they could
set their foot. Now, although the seventeen thou-
sand and odd troops of the imperial army who have

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. 209

been appointed to defend this post, possess officers
who have had long experience in the army, and
both they and the common men most nobly risked
their lives, yet, alas ! the ground in the neighbour-
hood of Canton is not fitted for giving battle : it is
difficult there to pitch so much as a camp, and what
between the heat and the moisture, if (troops) re-
main there long, they are sure to have a deal of
sickness ; putting out of view these we left in gar-
rison at Fatshan and Shihmun, of the rest we can
only use some seven or eight out of every ten. And
upon this occasion, when the foreign ships advanced
in a long unbroken line, and attacked the city, our
officers and people, though they exerted themselves
most valiantly, and quite regardless of their per-
sonal safety, struggled hard with them for several
days and nights ; yet, alas ! the native traitors, fan-
ning and inflaming the minds of people on one hand,
while on the other the foreign banditti, having ef-
fected a landing on the southern side, and having
in their possession all the roads and heights north of
the city, whence they looked down upon us, the
whole provincial city was before their eyes, and the
danger was indeed most imminent !

" We your slaves, having been fed and reared by
the bounty of your majesty, and having further re-
ceived your majesty's commands to proceed hither
for the defence of the frontier, what need there for
the slightest commiseration should our single lives
be lost, (in the discharge of our duty ;) but remem-

VOL. II. P

210 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

bering that within this city are several millions of
lives, what evil have they done that they should be
exposed to this poisonous influence, (i. e. the horrors
of war) ? Moreover, a provincial city is a most im-
portant jiosition ! in it are all the granaries, trea-
sures, and state prisons, (of the whole province,) and
these are of the utmost consequence to us ! Should
such an important position once be lost through
remissness, difficult would it be to recover it ; in the
meantime, our native banditti would avail them-
selves of the opportunity, and start up in every
direction, and the entire province would be thrown
into commotion ; a contingency which one cannot
bear to contemplate.

" To sum up the whole, it being impossible, to
all appearances, that we could have held out the
city much longer, and the consternation of the peo-
ple increasing every day, the inhabitants came one
on the heels of another, and with much weeping
and wailing, begged that we would take measures
to save their lives. We, your slaves, thought over
the subject a third and fourth time, and we came
to the conclusion, that, if we did not make some
temporary arrangement, matters were likely to get
ten times worse than they were, and so, in like
proportion, should we find it difficult to exculpate
ourselves from our increase of crime. If, however,
before making these arrangements, we had not laid
a statement before your majesty, and waited the
imperial pleasure before presuming to act, we beg to

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. 211

assure your majesty, that it was owing to the ex-
treme urgency of the case, which would not admit
of any delay. We humbly confess that we have
erred and blundered in every particular, so that had
we a hundred mouths, we could not plead exemp-
tion from the consequences of our grievous crimes.
We therefore beg an imperial decree that we be
handed over to the board of punishment to be most
severely dealt with."

SECOND SUPPLEMENTARY MEMORIAL TO THE PRE-
CEDING.

" And further. Canton has held commercial inter-
course with all foreign countries for about two hun-
dred years, and our Hong merchants, having had
dealings with the foreign merchants for such a
length of time, the debts which the former owe to
the latter have in consequence become very large.
On various occasions the foreigners have petitioned
that these might be repaid, and the different Hoppos
have always at the time deprived those Hong mer-
chants who were most deeply indebted, of their
office, and cast them into prison, apportioning the
claims to be paid back by the other Hong merchants
in instalments, as is duly recorded. Such has
hitherto been the mode of procedure.

" Now, however, the original Hong merchant
Woo Pingkeen (old Howqua) and others, have peti-
tioned, setting forth, that 'formerly, when the
English carried on trade, we (the Hong merchants)

p 2

212 MEMORIAL OF YISHAN [1841.

owed them accumulated sums ; and although it had
been fully understood and agreed upon, that we
were to pay them by instalments in a certain num-
ber of years, yet the English trade having been
stopped since the year 1839 up to the present mo-
ment, we have never been able to clear off the debt.
Now, having received your excellency's commands
to examine how we may most speedily clear off these
accounts, how dare we, under such circumstances,
procrastinate in the slightest or make vain excuses ?
Besides our own ways and means, when strained to
the very uttermost, we are still in arrears two mil-
lions eight hundred thousand taels ; and as matters
are very urgent, and the different tea and silk mer-
chants have all gone away for a time, we have really
no way of borrowing the money ; we can only beg
that your excellencies will be graciously pleased to
lend us the said sum of two millions eight hun-
dred thousand taels, out of the monies in the public
treasury, with which we shall clear off these foreign
claims; and we, the Hong merchants, shall lay aside
the consoo fund arising from our respective shares
of foreign trade, and pay the same back by instal-
ments in the course of four years;' and words to
that effect.

" Your slaves deliberated upon the matter a third
and fourth time, and it appeared to us, that, though
this is merely a debt of the Hong merchants, yet at
the present moment it is ultimately bound up with
the question at issue with the foreigners : and

1841.] TO THE EMPEROR. ^ 213

should we make the slightest mistake, (in refusing
the request,) it might lead to the most fatal conse-
quences. So we judged it best to acquiesce, and
send the Hong merchants the sum required, to be
repaid by instalments within the time agreed upon ;
and we conceive that we have good security for the
ultimate recovery of the same. Therefore, without
making further excuses for our own folly and rash-
ness, we now beg to acquaint your majesty with the
circumstance, having previously paid over the said
sum to the Hong merchants. These claims being
now liquidated, surely the said foreigners can have
no further excuse to raise disturbances.

" Besides having duly advised the board of revenue,
your slaves now humbly hand up this supplement for
imperial inspection. A duly prepared memorial."

The Chinese language is said to abound in beauti-
ful expressions — that its words indeed are complete
pictures, all the characters composing their letters be-
ing typical. I cannot say quite so much for these
translations, although I feel quite satisfied that none
of the bombastic or insulting expressions have been
allowed to escape.

Preparations having been completed this even-
ing, the requisite orders for storming at dawn, and
subsequently at seven a.m. the following day, were
issued.

At dawn, the ominous white flag was again dis-
played, and for some hours there had been repeated

214 CHINESE MESSENGER. [1841.

cries of " Elliot, Elliot !" as if he had been their pro-
tecting joss.

The truth immediately flashed on me, and I com-
municated my suspicions to our chiefs. They would
not for an instant admit such an improbable idea ;
but I pointed to an officer, at that moment ad-
vancing towards head-quarters, and observed, " That
officer is the bearer of our destiny."

It was too true ; the officer had lost himself since
ten the preceding evening, and roughed it out in the
paddy fields. The despatch was read : dead silence
prevailed until it was handed to Sir Le Fleming
Senhouse, who immediately said, " I protest against
it !" The chiefs then retired to their quarters, to
deliberate on their replies. Hostilities were sus-
pended, a sentinel posted on the hill where the
general received the despatch, and the flag of truce
was planted. The spot is well known as " Truce
Hill."

The letters of our chiefs were despatched to Cap-
tain Elliot, but about two that afternoon he arrived
at the camj).

Sir Le Fleming now lost his spirits, which before
were at their highest pitch, and returned to the
Blenheim, leaving me at head-quarters. He offered
me the charge of the despatches, as the senior com-
mander, but at the same time pressed the importance
of our aid at Amoy ; I therefore resigned in favour
of Captain Barlow, of the Nimrod. The terms of
the treaty are too well known to need repetition.

1841.] DEATH OF MAJOR BEECHER. 215

At eleven on Sunday the SOtli, as we were rest-
ing quietly in our quarters, the muster was sounded.
All were instantly in motion. The Chinese were
noticed advancing from the villages in the N. W.
quarter, with banners, shields, and the customary
arms of the fishermen and crews of the fast boats.
The 26th were advanced on the left, 37th N. I.
centre, and 49th kept the heights, edging up the
valley.

The heat was exceedingly oppressive, and before we
had proceeded far, both the general and the quarter-
master general (Major Beecher) were much incon-
venienced by it. The general, however, instantly
recovered, but Major Beecher was still weak, when
they moved forward to a rising ground in the cen-
tre of the valley, on reaching which Major Beecher
fell, and expired, from an attack of apoplexy.

A detachment of the 26th, which I joined with
my boats' crew, advanced on, and set fire to their
advanced post, consisting of two houses in the flat
of the paddy fields. It had evidently been occupied
as a barrack, as it contained numerous stools and
tables. On searching, I could find nothing but two
immense coffins, one at each end of the larger
house, in cells apparently constructed for them. They
were four times the usual size of Chinese coffins,
which are generally three feet square.

The troops moved off, leaving us to set fire to
these houses, which was done effectually ; and just
at the moment of reaching the general, two heavy
explosions followed.

216 THE LOST COMPANY. [1841.

These coffins, I am satisfied, contained gunpowder,
as the flames were too fierce in all other parts of the
houses for it to have escaped an earlier explosion.

The weather, which had been for some time
threatening, terminated in heavy rain, quite a deluge.
About this time. Captain Knowles, R. A., dropped
several rockets very prettily amongst the thickest
])art of a line of the enemy advancing, and these were
followed up by the 26th Cameronians on the left, who
pursued them from hill to hill until they reached their
village. Here their powder became damp, and their
fire-arms were of little use ; they used their bayonets,
however, to some purpose, although opposed to the
eighteen feet spears of the enemy. One Serjeant was
shot, and several of the detachment wounded.

A spirited young fellow, belonging to one of the
opium vessels, (Mr. Georges,) behaved well in this
affair, l)ringing off the Serjeant's arms and uniform,
to prevent their falling into the hands of the Chi-
nese.

The 37th, on the right, chased the enemy too far,
and having separated, lost one company.

This was not made known until reaching head-
quarters, when a detachment of marines, with dry
percussion arms, were sent to discover them. At
this time the floods had obliterated the paths, and we
could barely find our way by daylight. Yet the jolly
Royal Marines were successful, and found their friends
in s(|uarc, in the middle of a paddy field, pecked at
by the Chinese spears, and nearly overpowered by

1841.] CHINESE DOUBLE-DEALINGS. 217

numbers. It is superfluous to tell the tale ; it may
readily be guessed. They brought their friends
home, and " spoiled entirely many celestials." So
well did the Chinese understand the use of the
firelock, that one of them snatched one from a
soldier, wiped the pan and fresh primed it, and ap-
plying his own match, shot the officer (Berkeley)
through the arm.

This act of the marines deserved especial notice.
It exhibited more coolness, courage, and judgment,
than any advance by day against any odds.

The general, accompanied by Captain Elliot, met
the Chinese rebel-quelling General Yang, and the
Quang-chow-foo, in the hollow between the walls
and the quarters, and had a long conversation re-
specting the withdrawal of the troops, &c. Hardly
had they quitted before the Chinese again advanced in
the valley, in number about thirteen thousand. As it
was useless to trifle longer, and we would be infinitely
more secure within the walls of Canton, the general ap-
prized the Chinese authorities that if any further
display took place, he should consider the truce
broken, and he must adopt measures for taking pos-
session of the city. This alarmed them considerably,
and special officers were instantly sent to the tur-
bulent peasantry, to order them to retire. Their
obedience appeared for some time doubtful ; the
nine-pounder was ordered into position, and rockets
prepared, to give them a warning dose ; but they
prudently retired. One turbulent leader was dis-

218 ILLNESS. [1841.

posed to re-liglit the torch of war, and how anxi-
ously did some of the spectators look to the result !

Five millions having been embarked, and security
obtained for the remainder, the force was ordered
for embarkation on the morrow, the Chinese pro-
viding the necessary coolies for the conveyance of
the heavy stores. I had been suffering some days
from an injury on my leg, and the wetting of the
30th had increased my illness, so as to require
bearers to convey me down. It was material that
I should be at the beach for many urgent reasons,
but particularly to give the list of the boats in their
order for embarkation, my former coadjutor, Major
Beecher, having died, and Captain Bourchier being
in command of his division.

On reaching the Sulphur, I met Sir Le Fleming^
who directed me to remain quiet until his return.
This was about four o'clock, when I was considerably
worse. He was very anxious that I should get down
to pilot the Blenheim out ; and sent Nemesis to tow
me. As I was too unwell, I despatched Lieutenant
Kellett to perform this duty. The troops were duly
embarked, and Sulphur moved down. I was too ill
to keep the deck, and without her pilot she was
several times grounded.

At length we reached the Blenheim, off Tiger
Island, on the 8th. I was in my cot, frequently
delirious, and Sir Le Fleming too ill to call upon
me. Alas ! we never met again ! By his late clerk
he sent me a confidential order to refit immediately

1841.] DEATH OF SIR LE F. SENHOUSE.

219

for Amoy ; and on the 10th I found myself at Hong-
kong.

On the morning of the 13th I was sufficiently
well to enjoy the view from my cot, and had my
port removed, to watch the Blenheim come to an-
chor. I had scrawled a few words to Sir Le Flem-
ing, and just entrusted them to my purser (his late
clerk) to deliver. As she anchored, I perceived
signals flying, and his ensign dropped. I had been
previously apprized that he was very ill, and the pain-
ful truth at once became apparent.

Shortly afterwards my kind friend Captain Bour-
chier called on me, and related to me the melan-
choly details, and it was gratifying to me to learn
that he maintained, to the last moment, that devo-
tion to his profession for which I had so much ad-
mired him.

This was the severest loss we had hitherto sus-
tained. Had Sir Fleming lived, I am confident
that the losses of men, officers, and wear of squadron,
would have been much lessened, and our next de-
spatches would have been dated from Amoy or
Ningpo. His last words at parting with me on the
1st June were, " Lose no time in getting down and
refitting. I shall send you and Starling to remain
at Amoy with one of the sloops. We shall shortly
be with you."

It was the wish of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse to
be interred at Macao, and he was accordingly con-
veyed thither in the Nemesis, and buried with full

220 SICKNESS AMONG THE TROOPS. [1841.

military honours, in the presence of all the captains
and officers of the squadron who could attend. A
handsome monument has been raised by the officers
of the combined forces, in testimony of their respect
and admiration.

Our refit proceeded but slowly ; the sick list in-
creased rapidly, and in a very short period we had
no less than fifty-two incapable of jjerforming duty.
The squadron were now so much reduced by sick-
ness, that all idea of moving was at an end ; and
the daily interment of troops and seamen was any-
thing but cheering to us poor invalids.

Oh the 18th, the commodore returned to Macao
in the Queen steamer, and having been appointed
joint plenipotentiary with Captain Elliot, this was
officially promulgated on the 22nd.

Various rumours of movements to the north were
afloat, and doubtless any active service in a cooler
climate would have lessened the mortality. I am
confident, therefore, that cruizing would have checked
the sickness. It is well known that in cases of
cholera occurring in vessels going before the wind, it
has been checked by hauling to the wind, and simi-
lar cases of yellow fever have been noticed. It is
probable that the stagnant calms of Hong-kong ac-
celerated the mortality.

On the evening of the 20th, at the moment that
we were engaged making preparations for the ex-
})ected typhoon, by getting on board a new anchor
and chain cable, it was thought that we were too

1841.] THE TYPHOON. 221

near the Blenheim, and a party of hands from that
vessel was sent to assist in removing us.

The gale increased rapidly from E. S. E. to E.
N. E., and about daylight I was informed that we
had driven into the hawse of the Charles Grant, a large
fourteen-hundred-ton Indiaman. Being too ill to
trust myself on deck, I could only command from
the cabin. By breaking her sheer, and sudden
veering, we managed to drive clear of her hawse,
when a third anchor was let go, the best bower
having at the same moment parted.

She continued to drift towards a rocky islet
known as Green Island, and by the glimpses we
occasionally had of the land, we were not far from it.
Our last anchor, and new cable, alone held us. At
this time the gale was at its height, and the sea
clearing everything before it — over all, and through
the hawse-holes, compelling us to batten down.

With the danger under our stern, I was asked to
cut away the masts. But as I considered that the
bow guns and foremast would lighten her suffici-
ently, orders were given to throw the former over,
and after clearing away the rigging, to watch the op-
portunity of cutting away the stay on the roll to
starboard. These orders were not attended to ;
every one commenced cutting where he thought
best, and the result was, that we lost all our masts,
by the foremast falling in board, and the mainstay
having been cut. The ship immediately felt the
relief.

222 DAMAGE SUSTAINED. [1841.

As the gale abated, that morning, we perceived
that we were too close to Green Island ledge, and
that much damage had been sustained by the fleet.

Some of the merchantmen were totally lost,
transports, &c., stranded, and several in the same
plight as ourselves. The Royalist, our newly pur-
chased barque, (of war,) had lost all her masts, and
the Starling was missing.

About eight, I perceived, through my cabin win-
dows, signals of distress on the island of Wanchow,
and sent a boat to the Cruizer, to request their assist-
ance, our working boats having been put hors de
combat. About noon, the Atalanta and Nemesis
were despatched to look after missing vessels and
bring off their crews. Our anxiety became very
great for our consort, the Starling, and every eye
was strained during the day to discover her. Seve-
ral times fancy had deceived us so far that we had
made out her wreck, tents, &c., on the beach. At
length a schooner was seen coming through the
Cap-sing-moon, and, to our great relief, the Starling
showed her number.

On Kellett rejoining, I found that she had parted,
run through the Cap-sing-moon, made her guns fast
to the cable, and rode it out under the lee of the high
land.

Hardly had our fears been relieved upon this point,
when we noticed an unusual movement amongst the
steamers and corvettes, &c., and soon learnt that
the Louisa, having on board the two plenipotentiaries,

1841.] QUIT HONG-KONG. 223

had quitted Macao in company with the Hebe, on the
night of the 20th, to return to Hong-kong, and had
not since been heard of. The Hebe had been dis-
masted and returned to Macao, and the officers came
over in another vessel.

A little exertion, I imagined, might benefit me ; I
therefore went on board the Blenheim, to Captain
Herbert, to offer my services in one of the steamers,
when I learned that they had been wrecked on one
of the southern islands, but for a ransom of three
thousand dollars had been safely landed at Macao.
As removal to Macao would benefit the crew, by
sending them to hospital, the Atalanta was directed
to take us in tow immediately, and assist us into the
Tepa.

We quitted Hong-kong about noon, and reached
the mouth of the Tepa at eight that evening, when
the steamer having grounded, compelled us to anchor
for the night. Here we were just in our own
draught, two and a half fathoms over soft mud.
Another typhoon came on, but did us no damage.
We were not more than a cable length from ugly
rocks astern, but I had great faith in our new anchor
and cable, and had lashed two anchors together to
remedy that lost ; in addition to which we had no
top hamper to bring any strain on them.

On the 27th we warped to our anchorage, and I
then paid my respects to the plenipotentiaries at
Macao, and heard the history of their sufferings.
Their treatment by the Chinese was, as usual, bar-

224 THE PLENIPOTENTIARIES IN DISTRESS. [1841.

barous in the extreme. It appears that, shortly after
landing from the wreck, they w^ere providentially
recognized by a boatman belonging to Macao, who
took them under his protection (?) On opening the
village, the usual cry of " Fanqui ! Fanqui ! " was set
up, and the men rushed forth with threatening ges-
tures, armed with bill-hooks. The guide, however,
soon explained matters, and they were allowed to
move forward. At length they commenced rifling
the party, and as some oposition was offered, bill-
hooks were raised, and the commodore and one of
his attendants were knocked down, and stripped.
Resistance was vain. At length they were housed
for the night, and Captain Elliot agreed to give the
boatman two thousand dollars to land them at
Macao.

A Chinese vessel had been wrecked about the
same time, and all the crew were destroyed, and
their bodies frightfully lacerated. This raised a sus-
picion that they had not met fair play. It was not
without the greatest difficulty that they could be
appeased, and had it not been for their friend the
boatman, they would inevitably have been sacrificed,
as the people frequently returned to the subject, and
went through the motions of sharpening their knives,
and making signs of cutting their throats. This
doubtless was in aid of the demand for the other
thousand dollars, which sum was eventually agreed
on.

They were to depart in two boats, at daylight on
10

1841.] NARROW ESCAPE. 225

the 23rd, and but two in each boat ; the remainder
were to be sent for on their reaching- Macao. One
hundred dollars was also demanded for each of the
boats. Further extortionate demands were made,
until at length, as they put to sea, their demands
increased to two hundred.

On their passage they were suddenly concealed,
and a mandarin boat passing close alongside, asked
several questions, and passed on. What an escape !
What a prize they lost ! Shortly after having opened
Macao, they met a Portugese Lorcha, and eager to be
relieved from farther durance, sprung up and waved
to them. Those in the Lorcha, alarmed, and mis-
taking them for pirates, drew up under arms. How-
ever, they soon explained matters, and were carried
into the inner harbour, where they landed at the
Bar Fort.

Captain Elliot wore a Manila hat, a jacket, no
shirt, a pair of strijied trousers, and shoes.

The commandant of the fort wished to turn out
the guard for the commodore, but this was dispensed
with. They were soon in better quarters, and bet-
ter rigged, enjoying a comfortable meal. What must
have been the state of poor Mrs. E., who must have
given up her husband as lost !

Strange adventures seldom happen singly. During
the moment of my visit to the plenipotentiaries, a
card was brought up to Captain Elliot, and the ser-
vant wished to know if the person could be received .
This was no other than a brother of Captain Elliot's,

VOL. II. Q,

226 CHINESE ARTISANS. [1841.

who, being' bound to Sinqapoi'e, from Sydney, New
South Wales, had been compelled to put into China,
and had passed them in their passage from the
island.

We found it quite impossible to obtain masts at
Macao, but fortunately Captain Kellett Avas able to
purchase a fore and main-mast from one of the
wrecked vessels for seven hundred dollars, and the
stumps of our old foremast served to tongue the
mizen-mast. A party of Chinese artificers were en-
gaged, and we very shortly had a small dockyard in
full energy, on one of the reaches within pistol-shot
of our anchorage.

The Chinese are excellent workmen, but are
not so expert (when hired) as Europeans. When
compelled by their authorities to work for go-
vernment, they can even astonish us. But
nothing will induce them to move out of their
established routine, or work beyond the hours of
six A. M. and p. m., and during these nominal twelve
hours, not six hours' work is performed. Our progress,
therefore, was tediously protracted ; and although
my recovery chiefly depended on remaining quiet at
Macao, I found my presence necessary during the
greater part of the day in the Typa.

CHAPTER VIL

Arrival of Admiral Sir W. Parker and Sir H. Pottinger— Distri-
bution of the force — The Chinese re-fortify the Canton river —
Sulphur detained at Macao — Arms clandestinely supplied to
the Chinese— Madagascar steam-vessel wrecked — Feelings to-
wards the English — Various boats in use — Quit the China
waters— Return to Singapore— CUmate — Geology— Malacca
Pinang — Acheen — Malays — Conduct of the Sultan — Obser-
vations.

Q V

2'2S INTERVIEW AVITH THE ADMIRAL. [1841.

CHAPTER VII.

On the morning of the 10th, the Hon. East India
Company's steamer, Sesostris, was observed at an-
chor in the roads, bearing the flag of Rear-Admiral
Sir W. Parker, K. C. B., and having on board his
Excellency Sir H. Pottinger, Bart, our new and sole
plenipotentiary. The Nemesis immediately pro-
ceeded to her, as the depth would not allow so large
a vessel to approach nearer, and by eight o'clock
Sir H. Pottinger, Sir W. Parker, and their suites,
had landed under a salute from the battery on the
Praya Grande. They immediately proceeded to
call on Major-General Sir Hugh Gough, who hap-
pened to be staying for a few days for the benefit of
his health at the house of Mr. Matheson, and then
proceeded, accompanied by Captain Elliot, to wait
upon his excellency the Governor of Macao.

I was received very kindly by Sir William Parker,
and was assured of accompanying the expedition, if
the ship could be masted and re-manned in time.
He remained until noon, when, having given general

1841.] THE FLEET SAIL FOR AMOY. 229

audiences, he departed for Hoiig-kong, to hoist his
flag.

On the 12th he returned in the Queen, to make
some necessary arrangements, and to afford Sir Henry
Pottinger an opportunity of inspecting that vessel,
which was ordered to be fitted for his accommoda-
tion.

On the apj)earance of Sir W. Parker at Hong-
kong, that place soon presented a scene of unwonted
activity. A certain number of transports were
placed under the supervision of the captains of the
line-of-battle-ships and fi-igates, and every exertion
was made for the earliest departure. On the 9th
day after assuming the command, the fleet moved
from Hong-kong, bound for Amoy.

Previous to quitting Macao, the Quang-chow-foo
came in great haste, to obtain an interview with
our new plenipotentiary, and probably endeavour to
ascertain to what extent they might calculate on his
forbearance. He was not received by Sir Henry, but,
I believe, saw Major Malcolm, and finally transferred
himself to Captain Elliot. This was the first blow to
mandarin pride, and rather astonished the high
oflScers at Canton, as well as the tradesmen and lower
classes in Macao, who did not fail to talk it over
frequently.

Finding it impossible to get manned or rigged
in time, and the greater part of my crew being in
hospital, I was left in charge of the British inte-
rests at Macao, there to await further instructions.

230 CANTON RIVER. [1841.

Previous to final departure, the Nemesis conveyed
Major Malcolm to Canton, where he delivered letters
for the Provincial government, probably announcing
the appointment of Sir H. Pottinger as her Majesty's
Plenipotentiary.

Captain Nias was left in command of the force in
Canton river, having under him at Hong-kong the
Herald, Alligator, Hyacinth, Royalist, and Hebe
tender. At Macao, Sulphur and Starling.

The Atalanta was assigned to convey the commo-
dore, Sir J. G. Bremer, K. C. B., and Captain Elliot,
to Bombay, in order to proceed home overland.
They embarked on the 24th. The Sulphur might
perhaps have done better had she put to sea, and
found her way to Singapore, as there was not the
slightest prospect of her crew becoming effective
even, if they were immediately returned to duty.

Notwithstanding a special proclamation, declaring
that any attempts to re-arm the batteries, or impede
the navigation of the river, would be treated as acts
of hostility, the imperial rebel- quelling general, and
his colleagues, immediately set about repairing their
defences, constructing new batteries, and effectually
closing the approaches to Canton.

Another memorial appeared, in which they state
that the English foreigners (no longer rebels) have
left the provincial river, have given back the forts,
and that the militia and volunteers have slaughtered
a great many native traitors, 2^i\([ foreign (f) robbers
who were raising disturbances; and that they had
7

1841.] CHINESE GASCONADE. 231

restored quiet to the provincial city ; that they had
commanded that the English ships should forthwith
get up their anchors and depart; that the said
foreigners immediately got more than ten sail of their
ships under weigh, and left the river when one of
their commanders, Warren, petitioned, saying, that
the real fact of the matter was, the foreign merchants
of every nation were very hard pushed for money,
and worrying him for payment of their debts ; that
they had no intention whatever to offoid, or commit
any act of aggression upon the heavenly dynasty, and
wiplored us to supplicate the great emperor to show
them mercy, and pardon their offences. ( Very like
Warre7i ! ) " Your slave finds," it continues, " that
the foreign ships on this occasion bolted into the
river by violence, incited by the native traitors
showing them the way ;" (query Sulphur's ?) with
other trash. They then finish by stating that hav-
ing captured two hundred native traitors and fo-
reigners, black as well as white, among which last
were two chief i^eraons, they should be beheaded at
Namoan. One of the two chief persons was stated
to be Bremer, and that the English were willing to
pay one hundred dollars to ransom the body, which
they had stowed away in a secluded house, and
which they intend to inquire into.

Can all this be credited by those who maintain
the Chinese higher classes to be a polished nation ?
They are indeed the most polished rogues under the
sun ; and I am informed that this nephew of the

232 DUTIES IX PORT. [1841.

emj)eror, Yishan, is one of the most grossly re-
probate characters that has entered Canton.

The fleet having proceeded to the capture of
Amoy, Ningpo, Chinhae, &c., as we were not eye
witnesses, I must refer my readers to the Gazettes
for particulars. Amoy fell on the 26th of August ;
Chusan on the 1st of September ; Chinhae on the
10th ; and Ningpo on the 13th.

Our duties, in addition to those customary to
ships in port, were particularly directed to the sup-
jn-ession of supplies of ordnance, small arms, and
ammunition to the Chinese. These were imported
into Macao, nominally to Portuguese merchants, but
sold to the Chinese, and shipped off by night to
Canton. The importations were in British vessels,
and I wish I could have the satisfaction of clearing
my mind from the conviction that British agency
was not actively interested. The embarkations took
place at the ports of Madras and Singapore. Un-
fortunately I was too late in the case of the Sesos-
tris, or I should have detained that vessel until the
decision of the Admiral authorised their being-
landed. They were landed at the Custom-house,
and so much had been said about them, that during
our stay they were not removed. Indeed, I kept a
constant guard over them, day and night, and had
they been found in a Chinese vessel, out of the
waters of Macao, they would have been instantly
captured.

Having been ordered over to Hong-kong u]»on

1841.] THE RIVER STAKED. 233

some trivial duty, and given the guard, the Sesos-
tris evaded our guard-boat, and as I had been in-
formed that she had muskets and ammunition still
on board, we were despatched to examine her. We
found her at Whampoa, but the search was fruitless.

During my stay at Whampoa, I learned from seve-
ral gentry just returned from Canton, " that the Chi-
nese had effectually staked the river at Howqua's
Folly, and that even boats passed with difficulty."
No measures were taken to examine the other
channel ; indeed. Captain Nias had given me express
orders '''not to look into these matters^ It is not
probable that Canton will again be approached by
our ships, unless nature makes some violent elfort to
clear a new channel.

I hear it constantly observed that " the wet sea-
son will carry all before it." When does this wet
season occur? We have now been within Canton
river since the 13th of December last, and have not
witnessed any extraordinary freshes, nor anything
approaching the power alluded to.

That a channel would very soon be opened if re-
quired, I should be very sorry for one instant to
doubt, and I should be too happy to prove the
question. " Impossibilities " of such a nature do but
sharpen one's wits.

I was surprised one day by a note from Mr. J.
Matheson, announcing his wish to see me at Macao ;
and still more so, on my arrival at his house, at the
perusal of a letter from Captain Dicey, of the late

234 WRECK OF THE MADAGASCAR. [1841.

Honorable East India Company's steamer Madagas-
car, which had quitted me hut a few nights pre-
vious, bound to the north, and having on board my
old friend Captain Grattan, 18th Royal Irish,
charged with despatches for the plenipotentiary from
Lord Auckland. It reported their wreck near
Namo, with himself, Captain Grattan, twelve Euro-
peans, and thirty Lascars, and begged for assistance.
It further stated, that they had called themselves
Americans, in order to prevent their immediate mas-
sacre, or until they fell under the protection of a
mandarin. So far, perhaps, their lives were saved ;
but it is deeply to be lamented that so soon as they
found themselves in the power and under the pro-
tection of the mandarin, who evidently hnew that
they were English, they did not declare their true
colours, and call upon their own country for inter-
ference. Still it is difficult to decide how the ma-
jority would act under the pressure of the moment,
and probably without much time for consultation.
Doubtless, there were individuals of the party high-
minded enough to sacrifice themselves without hesi-
tation, to a sense of honour, but they might feel
considerable difficulty in involving forty-one others,
who must inevital^ly share his or their fate.

Everything which could be done under the cir-
cumstances was most cheerfully and zealously en-
tered on by Mr. Matheson, one of the most spirited
as well as influential merchants at Macao. Nothing,
however, can be done ex[)editiously (short of losing

1841.] UPROAR AT CANTON. 235

life) in China, and we had, therefore, patiently to
await the result of the system adopted.

Society in Canton appears to be completely un-
hinged, and all respect to the local authorities at an
end. The feeling against the wai' barbarians also is
very inveterate, and this was lately vented in an
extraordinary manner against the old Quang-chow-
foo, (supposed friend of the English.) It ap-
pears that Yu Paoushun, the prefect of Canton,
decked with his (new) peacock's feather, pro-
ceeded, in the due course of custom and duty, to
the great hall of examination, where the literary
candidates had assembled for their annual exercises.
On his entry, some of these high-spirited gentry
became restive, showed symptoms of discontent,
and eventually began to ridicule. For this they
were called to order, and sharply reprimanded ;
whereupon the 'public voice broke forth ; they be-
came clamorous, began to hiss, called his honour a
traitor, and hurled their inkstones * at his head.
Unable to withstand such missiles, the old gentle-
man determined, to withdraw; but on leaving the
hall, one of the most daring of the malcontents at-
tempted to break his sedan-chair. A great disturb-
ance ensued. The Nanhae-heen, (magistrate of the
district of Nanhae,) who is second in authority to
the prefect, then came forward, soothed these excited
literati, and begged them to come again next day

* Slate slabs for Indian ink, weighing half a pound to one
pound each.

236

WAR-.TUNKS.

[1841.

for examination, when the commissioner of justice
would come to the hall. On the 18th, the prefect
had resolved to resign his office, which immediately
followed*

The fast boats, war junks, tea boats, trading- junks,
&c., have been frequently alluded to. I therefore
deem it right to insert their descriptions separately
in the following order. First, " The war junk,"
which may be very readily conceived by supposing
the wood-cut beneath, which represents the large trad-
ing junk to have guns allotted to her painted ports.

TRADING JUNK.

Abaft the mainmast, however, in those intended
for war vessels is an arched cabin, the roof of which
rises about four feet above the deck, and its deck
* Chinese Rep.

1841.]

SALT-JUNKS.

237

is about tlie same depth below the upper deck. No
ofuns are mounted abaft the mainmast. They oe-
cupy the space between the fore and mainmasts.

The cabin arch is continued aft about ten feet,
forming a deck magazine, which, of course, is very
liable to accident, and any rockets striking that part
of the vessel, must inevitably cause an explosion.
Indeed, one may almost say that from the loose
manner in which their ammunition is made up, and
frequently filled as required, that a train is always
laid from this magazine to the guns, which might
be ignited, even by a rocket passing over that part
of the deck.

A second war junk is frequently fitted from a
fishing vessel, or " salt junk," similar to the annexed
wood-cut, and merely has four or six guns mounted
to fire over all.

u

SALT JUNK OR FISHING JUNK.

238

FAST BOATS.

[1841.

The fast boat, which may be appropriately termed
the war galley, varies in length from fifty to ninety
feet, and pulls from thirty to sixty oars. They are
fitted much in the same style as the Spanish Scam-
pavias, being hatched, where each pair of rowers
sit, and armed with one or two brass guns in the
bow. They have also six or eight gingals, mounted
on the gunwales, which carry a leaden ball of two
ounces. The crew are dressed with short blue
shirts, loose short trousers, and conical caps, the
latter formed of a basket work of rattan, which re-
sists the blow of a cutlass, and are generally painted
red and white. Their shields, which are formed
of the same material, and painted with various de-
vices, are about three feet in diameter : they fancied
them ball proof, but were sadly mistaken.

This same description of vessel is that used for

FAST BOAT OR SMUGGLER.

1841.]

TEA BOATS.

239

smuggling opium, and which frequently, from their
superior class of crew, compel the mandarin fast
boats to make the best of their way for shelter.
The annexed wood-cut represents the vessel; the arms
may be seen in the plate, where the gingal is also
in use.

The " tea l)oat" is calculated principally for river
navigation, and is generally about one hundred feet
in length by twenty wide. They are fitted with a
substantially built arched roof, having a sliding arch
abaft the mast, which admits of loading. This arch
slides closely in grooves, which renders it rain
proof

I found these vessels would conveniently accom-
modate one hundred and twenty men each.

TEA BOAT.

The sampan is very similar to a boat cut in twain
with a stern fitted inside the planking ; its greatest

240 RECEIVE UUR RELEASE. [1841.

breadth being at the stern, which forms a semicircle.
One is shown stern on in the wood-cut of the trad-
ing junk. They are navigated by Tartar luomen,
who entirely live in them at night ; they are housed
by a sliding bamlioo arch, which is pushed back,
like scales, by day.

On the 14th of November, her Majesty's ship
Larne arrived from Chusan and Ningpo, bringing
the lately promoted captains and other officers from
the squadron, on their homeward jDassage. By her I
received my release, with a private note from the
admiral ; but my little consort, the Starling, was to
be paid olf, her crew transferred to the Sulphur, and
Captain Kellett to re-man her by volunteers from
the merchantmen, and join the admiral, for survey-
ing service.

To me this detention ^\'ould perhaps have been
less felt ; but Kellett had so long set his heart
on home and arranging his affairs, that he was any-
thing but gratified ; although it would probably en-
sure his further promotion. His separation from
me was a still greater blow, all our operations for
the last six years having been carried on so entirely
in conjunction, that they could only be unravelled
by our united efforts ; and as he was my only actual
assistant, I was thus left burthened with the whole
labour of the expedition, as well as our Chinese
surveys, which even our united endeavours could not
possibly " lick into shape " before the return of the
ship ; independent of the necessary writing and cal-
culations.

1841.] SAIL FROM MACAO. 241

But the fiat liad issued, and it was idle to
repine. It was perhaps of equal, if not of more
importance, that his services should be available
during the present opening of China. I therefore
determined, in comjiliance with the admiral's wishes,
to render him as comj^lete as either public or pri-
vate means would admit, for his own cruize, and
made up my mind to the separation. To those only
who know how much we were together, or in com-
munication, since 1831, can this feeling be under-
stood.

Having rated our chronometers, and obtained our
final observations at Macao, we took leave of our
kind and hospitable friends, and wishing " better
luck still" to our nurseling, now left to shift for
herself, quitted, on the 21st of November, with a
strong breeze from the northward.

After having passed Pulo Sapata, the breeze
falling light, we hauled to the westward, ran over
the Charlotte bank in fifteen fathoms, and were
driven by light airs and currents over to the Anam-
bas, on one of the islands of which (Pulo Domar)
I landed, in order to secure its position, which agreed
pretty well with that assigned to it in the charts.

The islands, I since find, have been very closely
surveyed by the French expedition, under Laplace.
The rock, or island of Domar, (? Pulo do Mar, of
Portuguese origin ?) is a lofty limestone elevation, of
one hundred and fifty feet, and in fine weather, safe
and convenient landing may be found on its south-

VOL. II. R

242 THE GOVERNOR AT PINANG. [1841.

east extremity, where also a small coral beach, at
high water, will admit of beaching a light boat. At
low water, my gig without her crew could barely
reach the nearest rocks.

Nothing worth notice occurring here, we shaped
our course to weather Pulo Aor, and sighted it, bear-
ing away for the straits of Singapore.

On the following morning we found ourselves
drifted far to leeward on the Bintang shore, and
were unable, by reason of light baffling winds, to
reach into the straits until the evening of the 4tli
of December, when, with a fresh breeze at N. E.,
we passed over the tail of the l)ank off the Romania
Shoal, and by dawn the following morning reached
close off Singapore.

On the master attendant visiting, I learned that
my good friend the governor (Mr. Bonliam) had
embarked in a merchant ship, in order to visit
Pinang, and other parts of his government, and was
then underweigh, departing. After paying him my
farewell visit, we anchored about eight, hi the
roads, where I found the United States frigate
Constellation, 38, bearing the broad pendant of Com-
modore Kearney, and the Boston corvette. Comman-
der Low, on their way to Manila and China, and
at this critical moment of dispute with America,
not very opportune visitors. However, being in a
British port, they were guests, and I lost no time in.
calling on them, and was much pleased with their
acquaintance.

1841.] STEAM VESSELS. 243

I took up my old quarters at the recorder's house,
and had the satisfaction of finding, after twelve
months interval, that my instruments continued to
afford satisfactory results. Since my last visit, my
good friend Lieut. Elliot had completed his observa-
tory, and had been now nearly a year in activity. As
not a letter for any individual on board was re-
ceived here, it was a rich treat to be able to talk
over with him all that had been done, was in pro-
gress, and talked of, during our almost banishment.

I also had the pleasure of making the acquaint-
ance of Mr. Ballister (the American consul) and his
wife, and in company with the commanders of the
American vessels of war, passed a very agreeable day.

On the day we arrived, the Medusa, Hon. East
India Company's steamer, was noticed outside, and
coals having been sent out to her, she paddled into,
the anchorage.

This vessel, with the Ariadne, of similar construc-
tion, quitted this port some time since, to join the
fleet in China. They reached within two hundred
miles of Manila, when their coal being expended,
the Ariadne was signalled to return to this port,
and the Medusa reached Manila. There she ob-
tained a small supply of refuse coal and wood, and
made an attempt to reach Macao. She was in sight ;
but having burned all her bulwarks, fittings, &c.,
and having no anchors or cables sufficiently long and
strong to hold her in deep water, she bore up for
Singapore. The Ariadne not having appeared, she

R 2

244 SCANTY SUPPLY OF STORES. [1841.

was deemed lost, and as the present season rendered
it impossible for the Medusa to make a second attempt,
as well as orders from the governor general having
arrived to recal her, she was refitted, and sent to
Moulmein, to join the force watching that port. The
Ariadne subsequently reached Manila, having ob-
tained wood in Borneo.

We were detained some days at Singapore, wait-
ing for bread, which could only be baked (by the
Chinese) at the rate of one thousand pounds per day,
and the American ships, supplied by the same parties,
were also detained for the same reason. Although
a free port, and abounding generally with stores,
there are but feAV fit for a ship of war. No cordage
fit to reeve could be found ; which, considering the
great influx of ships connected with the China expe-
dition, rather indicates want of judgment in the mer-
chants, as I am satisfied large sums would have been
realized by shipping it on to Macao. European rope at
one period fetched as much as twenty dollars per
pecul (of one hundred and thirty-two pounds ;) spars fit
for mainmasts of vessels of five to six hundred tons,
twelve to fifteen hundred dollars each. At the
moment that we were in distress for masts, I ex-
amined a junk's mast, offered for sale, which would
not make us either fore or main mast, but for which
they asked twelve hundred dollars.

On receiving our unexpected orders here last
year, we were unable to procure any articles of re-
fit for our wardrobes, and eventually obtained them

1841.] CLIMATE. 245

at Macao. These are points which all travellers or
voyagers bound this way should be apprised of. It
is possible that these wants may soon be remedied,
and probably an overstocked market will be the re-
sult.

The climate of Singapore is reckoned warm, but
particularly healthy. Although nearly on the equator,
invalids from other tropical regions frequent this
spot. The temjjerature seldom ranges above 82°,
during their cool or rainy season. But this term is
scarcely justifiable, seeing that the rain merely falls
in showers, and seldom exceeds half an hour in dura-
tion ; they are, indeed, merely refreshing showers.
The average fall of rain during the year is ninety
inches. February, March, and April are considered
the hottest months ; April until October those lia-
ble to rain, — when, for the instant, it descends in
heavy volume.

The formation may be considered granite, iron
and red sandstone, and vegetable matter mixed with
coralline debris. This latter occurs particularly in
the region where the magnetic observatory is situated,
and as far inland as where the American consul re-
sides, and in all probability is the cause of the
earlier putrefaction of the water in wells or stag-
nant pools. Lumps of scoriaceous iron present
themselves here and there, evidently exhibiting
some violent convulsion, which has entirely upset
all attempts to pursue stratification.

The soil produces sugar-cane, cotton, coffee, pep-

246 HOSPITALITY. [1841.

per, cloves, nutmeg, betel-nut, cinnamon, cocoa,
maize, pine-apples, (a perfect weed) plantains, figs,
and the usual kitchen garden produce, which the
Chinese rear very plentifully.

The customary conveyances are palanquins, drawn
by ponies, as well as gigs, and open phaetons, &c.,
belonging to private individuals. The customary
hire of the palanquin is one dollar per day.

The town contains three hotels. That most fre-
quented, and maintained in the best style, is kept by
Mr. Dutronquoy. It is in exterior more like a
palace than an inn. There are table d'hotes and con-
veyances provided. Expenses are similar to those of
all hotels out of England : dollars here are as rapidly
consumed as shillings in England. The residents
are extremely hospitable; they generally dine at
four, and little formality is observed. The fashion
indeed prescribes white jackets, and the pmikah is
as indispensable as in India. Meat and poultry are
expensive, for the country, being dearer than in
our English markets.

Water is supplied to the shipping by tank-vessels,
at the rate of one dollar per ton ; beef at eleven and
a half cents ; biscuits, four and a half cents ; fuel, three
and a half dollars for one thousand billets.

Late on the evening of the 17th December, we
quitted Singapore with very light airs, and having
rounded Barn Island, anchored until daylight. As
soon as the tide permitted, we moved on ; but at
a very slow pace, and did not reach Malacca until

1841.] MALACCA. 247

the morning of the 20th, when we anchored about
eight o'clock in three and a half fathoms, close off
the fishing stakes, and most fortunately succeeded
in obtaining a suite of observations, which detained
us until midnight.

I called on the resident councillor, Hon. Mr. Sal-
mond, and as my time did not admit of dinner par-
ties, devoted an hour to tea and conversation. Every
civility was tendered by the residents ; but as our
visit was purely to obtain the magnetic data and
meridian distance, delay was out of the question.

At four A.M., we weighed, and quitted Malacca,
not without regret at our inability to accept or re
turn the civilities proffered, or to make an excursion
into the interior.

Malacca is very prettily situated on a well-
wooded mound or clump, on the summit of which
stand the fort, signal-post, and stadt-house ; the other
houses surrounding the base on its outer or southern
segment, extending about half a mile in distance,
and skirted by villas right and left. The river divides
the town at the base of the stadt-house, or governor's
residence. It is navigable at high water for small
vessels, but at low water boats cannot approach
within half a mile of the beach, by reason of the
mud flat.

Light baffling airs did not permit our making
much progress, and during the calms the dredge
obtained us many very interesting objects in con-
chology.

248 piNANG. [1841.

On the 26th of December we sighted Pinang, and
on the night following, having despatched the
master ahead in the gig, to show lights on the re-
quisite spot, we anchored in ten fathoms, about ten
p. M., off the admiral's house.

On the following morning, we were visited by
the master attendant, and at eight I landed at the
Admiralty-house, which I found occupied by our
kind friend Mr. Bonham, (the governor of Singapore,
Pinang, &c.) until his house was vacated by the
resident councillor; I therefore became his guest,
and made my arrangements for completing my ob-
servations in the garden of that establishment.

As Pinang has been so often described by former
visitors, I shall dwell but shortly on it beauties.
The town is situated on a low delta, the northern
face of which is occupied by the fort. Admiralty-
house, and private residences ; and the eastern by
the town. The sides of this delta occupy about two
miles on the sea faces, and perhaps more on the
land from whence the mountains spring. This level
triangular space is traversed by most excellent
roads, well sheltered by trees of luxuriant growth
principally of the cocoa-nut, betel, palm, and bam-
boo. It is customary to drive out on these roads
between the hours of four and seven, terminating
usually at the jetty or promenade, at the eastern
apex of the triangle, to talk scandal, &c., until seven,
the customary hour for dinner.

The town contains the uyual well-built public offices,

1842.] BEL RETIRO. 249

shops of all trades (chiefly Chinese) innumerable ;
with the addition of the usual quantum of filth, &c.,
which one g-enerally encounters wherever the Chi-
nese are located.

On new year's day I accompanied the governor
on a visit to Mr. Garling, (the resident councillor, or
governor, in the absence of Mr. Bonham,) residing-
at Bel Retiro, the government house, or proper re-
sidence of the governor, which occupies the second
hill in height on the island.

We quitted the Admiralty-house about half-past
six in the morning, in a palanquin carriage, Avhich
conveyed us to the foot of the hill, where we mounted
our steeds, stubby ponies, about fourteen hands
high, not much inclined to move out of a snail's
pace. The road was very steep, and the exertion of
keeping the saddle for one hour up so tedious a
zig-zag path, was infinitely greater than walking.
However, as I took with me a mountain barometer
and other instruments, the motion was certainly
easier on horseback. About eight we reached the
summit, where we found a most agreeable tem]7era-
ture of 71°, and a still more agreeable party to wel-
come us.

The whole house, or pair of houses connected by
a covered way or open room, about one hundred and
fifty feet in length, was most tastefully decorated
with flags, wild flowers, and painted devices, by the
younger damsels ; also with native flowers of the
island. The devices were chiefly comi)linientary to

250 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. [1842.

their kind and worthy host, Mr. Garling. I really
began to fancy that we had apjDroached home some-
what suddenly, and the kindness and attentions of
our host's lady and visitors very soon made me
forget that I was still a wanderer. We remained
the night in this delicious retreat, (dancing until
eleven,) and enjoying a temj^erature of 66°,5 ; and at
daylight commenced our descent.

Bel Retiro is situated two thousand five hundred
feet above the level of the sea, and perched on the
second highest of the several nipj^les which crown
this range, and on most of which are snug little re-
treats, forming sylvan palaces. It commands a very
extensive view, but, from its elevation, is subject to
frequent visitations of fog and rain, which to those
unaccustomed to dwell in heights must be visited
to be appreciated — -felt would be a better term ;
a fog being literally a vapour- wave, pervading hori-
zontally, and only to be kept out by closed doors
and windows. The signal-jjost is situated on this
hill, within a very few yards of the house.

On a hill, not much beyond musket range be-
neath, but which took longer to travel, is situated
the house of his Honour, the recorder, to whom we
paid a visit, as well as to other beauties surrounding
this agreeable retreat.

After experiencing much kindness and attention
from Mr. Bonham, I took my leave on the night of
the 3rd of January, aided by a fresh land breeze
which carried us clear of the land before midnight.

1842.] DEEP-SEA DREDGING. 251

Our course was shaped to sight Pulo Pera, which
we passed within four miles on the noon following.
Here the breeze slackened, and we floundered
through calms and rains, until noon of the 6th,
when we made the N.E. angle of Sumatra, near
Cape Diamond. Had the weather been propitious,
it was my intention to have fixed its position, but
this was now given up.

As we were just in one hundred fathoms of water,
and becalmed, the dredge was put over to try for
anything living at that depth. We were particu-
larly successful in obtaining live specimens of tere-
bratula, chama, minute shells, echini, and asteria;
temperature of sea at surface 82°, eighty fathoms
below 55°.

Light baffling airs prevented our progress until
the 9th, when we reached Pulo Bouro (or Malora
of the charts) at sunset, and fearing some loss of
time or difficulty in landing at Acheen, I examined
the island, and finding it suit my purpose, anchored
in order to secure the meridian distance, as well as
making it my main position for fixing the Golden
Mountain.

At our anchorage the current was found to set
one and a half mile per hour west until midnight,
when it changed, having the same velocity, to
E.N.E.

On the morning following we landed, and having
completed our observations by sunset, bore away for
Acheen, distant about ten miles. We anchored for

252 ACHEEN. [1842.

the night, but shifted as close in as safety permitted
the following morning, or within the influence of
the river current, which pei'ceptibly discoloured the
sea, and although distant about three quarters of a
mile from .its mouth, the water was fresh on the
surface within a cable's length of the shiji.

The entrance to the river is very shallow for two
hundred yards from its mouth, and at its deepest
part on the bar, has only three feet six inches at
low water. As the flood never overcomes the force
of the stream, although the level rises, a constant
series of overfalls or small rollers result, tending
rather to cause doubts in strangers as to the safety
of landing. This, with chronometers and valuable
instruments at stake, became matter for considera-
tion. For this reason, I deemed it prudent to
transfer the more important articles to a larger
])oat, and move in Avith my gig, (a very full whale
boat,) and if safe, signalise the cutter to follow. On
entering these petty rollers, I found that they as-
sisted us much in our j:>rogress against the swift
current, and once within the bar, that we were
quite in still water.

Having a letter for the sultan of Acheen from the
governor of Pinang, stating the object of our visit,
I had determined on delivering it ; but finding the
distance to his town great, the stream rapid, and
moreover, time precious, I was glad to ]3ut off this
ceremony, despatching it by one of his rajahs. Our
signal soon brought the boat in, and the tents, &c..

1842.] MESSAGE FROM THE SULTAN. 253

were pitched upon a low sandy point, unfortunately
containing a large proportion of iron sand. I was
visited shortly by a rajah, by whom I was informed
that I might expect a reply in the evening.

A Moulmein vessel, commanded by a Portuguese
half-caste, happening to be in the river, I was for-
tunate enough to obtain his services as an interpre-
ter. In the evening, one of the sultan's household
visited us, with a message from his master, as well
as a present of a bullock and some fruit for the
ship's company, also intimating that "the sultan would
be glad to see me, and that orders had been given
to see our wishes attended to on the beach." A
message was returned, that I would visit him on the
morrow, before noon.

Fortunately, although surrounded by these half
pirates, who were, from the boys upwards, armed
with kris, dagger, or scymitar, (the latter used for
hatchet or any other jDurpose, and a very formidable
weapon,) we were enabled to keep them at a very
fair distance, and found them less troublesome than
more civilised nations, — who, knowing the incon-
venience of causing the ground to vibrate, or ap-
proaching the magnetic instruments with weapons
or iron, would frequently intrude or walk about, to
our manifest discomforture. Indeed, I have gene-
rally found that a lead line marking the boundary of
approach, has been more efficient than the armed
sentinel.

Having remained on shore during the night, and

254 ASPECT OF THE RIVER. [1842.

completed the necessary series of observations before
nine the next morning, malgre the torture of myriads
of mosquitoes and sand-flies, I set off in my gig,
accompanied by the surgeon and our interpreter, to
pay my respects to his highness.

For tlie first mile we found both sides of the
river marshy, and the river itself, which is about
sixty yards across, obstructed by sand knolls ; but
passing these, the banks at the sides of the river be-
come firm, of solid red earth or clay, with well-
beaten footpaths within a few yards of the banks.
The scenery is picturesque, with several spots of
cleared level ground, and detached grassy islets.

About two miles from the entrance, where the
large trees overhang the river, we noticed several
large buildings, and were hailed by the sultan's man
of business, who visited us yesterday, and who
beckoned us to land at a small country or summer-
house belonging to his highness, where he had ap-
pointed to meet us.

We were ushered into a small divan ascended by
a flight of steps, which strongly reminded one of
a warder's post, being situated immediately above
the gate. This appeared to have been recently fitted
up with shawls, rugs, and pieces of old finery, for
the occasion. The state-chair, intended doubtless
for his highness, had a worked crimson seat, em-
broidered with tinsel and pieces of looking-glass,
intended probably to represent jewels. In the main
square stood a very respectable house, in the Moorish

1842.] sultan's family. 255

style, of three stories, with very wide eaves to each,
decreasing to the upper, which might be one fourth
the capacity of the ground floor. This, doubtless,
was their mosque, as at the time of prayer we saw
them wash at the adjoining cistern, and return to
the lower building, which they told us was for
prayer. The persons who showed themselves at
the upper windows, we were informed, were soldiers.
Other offices completed the square, in which the
retinue of all descriptions appeared to have some
particular station. That on the right was occupied
entirely by children of his royal highness, and not a
scanty brood, considering they were only the males.

These appearances gave me but a poor idea of
the state of this prince, and as I had arranged mat-
ters to return to my observatory again before three,
I began at noon to be rather impatient at the neg-
lect of his royal highness, and more particularly at
the want of dinner for my boat's crew, which I had
fully calculated on being properly entertained.
Upon expressing my anxiety upon this subject, I
was coolly informed that his royal highness might
be down about four o'clock, after prayers ; I there-
fore decided on going to him, and thus obtaining a
sight of the town. We accordingly pulled up the
river, which presented no further variation than a
few cleared spots on the banks.

Arriving at a small creek, pointed out by our
guide as the nearest landing to the village, we
walked a short distance through roads and grass,

256 THE sultan's hauteur. [1842.

rather miry from rain, which was then falling, until
we reached the bazaar on the outskirts, which did
not seem either to be well supplied, or to offer any-
thing very tempting. Passing this, we at length
came to the entrance gate of the sultan's grounds,
which exhibited in the smaller doorway a brass six-
pounder field gun. Here w^e were forbidden en-
trance, and as it rained, were offered a shed for
shelter, which was already fully occupied by a set
of dirty idle fello^vs, mixed with the guard, in their
turbans of crimson woven with gold cord, and pro-
bably awaiting their master's movements. This,
however, I thought too great a degradation, and
accordingly declined.

Finding that they closed the gate, and intended
keeping us waiting, (how long seemed doubtful,)
I sent a message to his highness, acquainting him that
as I had come to visit him, and he had not the
civility to afford me proper shelter from the rain, I
should return to my ship.

Indeed, I saw no friendly disposition evinced by
his people, and as the act of making me w^ait would
gratify them, — and I had before been given to under-
stand that he delighted in aj)ing the sovereign, I
determined to show how little I cared for him or
them, well knowing that humility would very soon
appear on the opposite side.

I therefore carelessly returned, examined the ba-
zaar, and then moved on to my boat. But just as I
had seated myself, a messenger arrived to recall me.

1842.] REPAID IN HIS OWN COIN. 257

stating that the sultan was on his way to see me.
I determined not to subject myself to a second dis-
appointment, and further I did not believe his
emissary. However, to test his sincerity, I desired
him to tell his master, " that if he was desirous of see-
ing me, I should meet him at his country-house
where he had appointed, provided he was there when
my boat reached it ;" and to afford him full time, I
drifted down stream, looking out for birds, &c., on
the banks.

As he had not arrived by the time we reached
the place, we passed on, landed, and shot several
very handsome birds. One very beautiful species
of bird of paradise, furnished with long curled fea-
thers, in addition to the wing coverts, flew across
the river, but we were unable to get a shot at it.

Whilst thus engaged, a special ambassador, at-
tended by a large party, came suddenly upon us
with fresh importunities to return; but the only
answer I could give was, " that as my time was of
the utmost importance to me, his highness would
find me at the beach, or on board my ship, and that
I begged to assure him that he would neither be
denied admittance, shelter, or the hospitality due
to his rank ; moreover, that it would probably be
the last captain of a British ship of war who would
condescend to call upon him after such want of
courtesy on his part."

Thus ended our communication. The chiefs on
the beach paid us more attention. Fowls, &c.,

VOL. II. s

258 FISHING IMPLEMENTS. [1842.

were brought for sale, and had we remained, doubt-
less we should have received the sultan on board.
Time, however, was too precious, as we had much
yet to complete at the island of Bouro. Our tents
were therefore struck, and by dark we were on our
return to our former position, where we anchored
early next morning.

On our return down the river we called at a small
fisherman's retreat, where we found their lines and
nets suspended to dry. The nets were of very fine
thread, very beautifully worked, and must have been
the result of great labour. I inquired, from curi-
osity, what they would require for the one before
me, about thirty feet long, by thirty yards in cir-
cumference ; the reply was, thirty dollars. Labour,
therefore, is not cheap in this region.

I was particularly struck with the peculiarity of
fitting their fishing lines, being precisely the same
method as that adopted by the Indians of the eastern
coast of America, viz., by a swivel and piece of horn
above the lead, which prevents the bait from getting
foul. I borrowed the invention from the Indians of
Nova Scotia, and although I have everywhere
strictly scrutinized the peculiarities of fishing imj^le-
ments, have not before seen it imitated. Had we
noticed it in Behring's Straits, or the northern
Asiatic regions, it would not have appeared so
strange, as the Malays are well known to have car-
ried their depredations into the northern parts of
Tartary, and thence it would easily have been copied
into Siberia.

1842.] LARGE CANNON. 259

I thought it rather strange, that although a paper
was presented by the captain of the port, stating
that supplies, refreshments, water, &c., were all to
be obtained, nothing could be procured until the
moment of embarkation, and then but a scanty
supply.

On the first day, I noticed that every person came
armed, and generally dressed in full costume. But
on the last day few were so accoutred.

Several lines of old encampments, as well as
heavy brass guns, were observed near the beach, and
one very large gun at the town, said to be of sufii-
cient diameter to admit a man on his hands and
knees. I despatched one of the officers, Mr. Selwyn,
mate, to examine those immediately in our rear.
He was shown a large gun, of fourteen inches bore,
and measuring twenty-three feet, and several others
were said to lie concealed by the jungle. It was
brass, of good workmanship, and had characters on
it resembling Malay ; but the natives did not under-
stand them.

Several of the chiefs were anxious that we should
visit their divisions of the country, where every arti-
cle of supply would be abundantly forthcoming ; at
the same time intimating their independence of the
sultan. One in particular spoke very good English,
and stated his prices, which were much more reason-
able than those at Acheen. A superior rajah
visited me the first day, elegantly attired. He was
very gentlemanly in his manners, called himself a

s 2

260 OBSERVATIONS. [1842.

lieutenant of the rajah's hut not tinder his control;
and wrote down my name, as well as that of the
ship, in English. I wished him to accompany me
the next day, to interpret, but he shook his head
rather significantly ; intimating that he was not
ambitious of the honour, T interpreted it, disincli-
nation to jeopardise his freedom.

Having reason to doubt our observations on
Acheen sand, I determined to renew them on Bouro,
where the central position on the island might
afford me more satisfactory results. I found, how-
ever, that the rocks all, more or less, affected the
needles, as in the case of most volcanic formations.
The principal object of my visit to Acheen Avas com-
pletely effected, and we were unusually fortunate in
such operations ; having experienced fine weather,
and rapid transit from station to station. By the
astronomical and chronometric bases both coincid-
ing, the Golden Mountain is situated in latitude
5°,2r,26^5, (Horsburgh 5°,27',0) and longitude
95°,44,'55'' E., (Horsburgh 95°,49,'0) its elevation
is eight thousand two hundred and eighty-three
feet above mean tide level, differing but thirty-three
feet at the extreme stations.

Water is easily obtained by filling the casks with-
in the river points ; it even runs fresh to the
breaker edge ; but it is safer in every point of view
to water inside, as the rollers are not always to be
trusted.

Riding at the anchorage is very uneasy, })ut at

1842.] BULLOCKS. 261

Bouro less so, if the island be brought to bear E.N.E.
in fourteen fathoms. The bullocks obtained here
are in fine condition ; that we obtained weighed
two hundred and fifty pounds. Their scymitars are
made by native workmen, the steel being imported
from Calcutta. They are valued at one and a half to
two dollars each ; but although anxious to obtain
one, no one would be induced to sell, even for
double their value.

CHAPTER VIII.

Ceylon — Point de Galle — Climate — Sail again — Numerous ma-
rine animals — Natural history — Anchor at Port Victoria, Se-
chelles — Partiality of the seamen for cocoa-nuts — State of
Victoria — Black population — Description of the Sechelles from
their almanack — Mahe — Monsoons — Cession of the islands to
England — Terms of capitulation — Political and commercial
importance — Woods — Quit the Sechelles — Majambo Bay,
Madagascar — Appearance of the coast — Natural history — Ab-
sence of natives — Sail for the Cape of Good Hope — St. Helena
— Ascension — Cape Blanco — Arrival in England — LiberaUty
of the Admiralty — Paid of — Conclusion.

264 POINT DE GALLE. [1842.

CHAPTER VIII.

On the 14tli January we quitted Bouro, and
shaped our course for Point de Galle, the southern-
most port in Ceylon. Strong north-easterly breezes
favoured us, with a good offing. On the night of the
17th, we passed over the position of the Bale of
Cotton rock, and steered for the Basses, which we
passed about six, on the morning of the 20th.

Having steered a course intended to pass close
to the southernmost, and possibly fix its position
if becalmed, we found ourselves at dawn about
fifteen miles off shore, and had drifted considerably
to the south-west : about eight, Dondra Head and
flao'staff visible N. N.W., and the land about Point de
Galle in the western distance. Here we were tan-
talized, not above twenty miles from our port, with
light baffling airs, barely enabling us to stem an
easterly current, as well as an offshore set.

About eight in the evening, we were visited by a
fisherman, who understood English, and having
ascertained that we were bound to Galle, he re-

1842.] UNPROPITIOUS WEATHER. 265

mained by us, affording us his assistance as a pilot.
By four a. m., we reached the outer anchorage, and
the breeze failing, drojiped our kedge. At daylight,
finding that we were not more than eight miles
from the shore, and that the sea breeze would not
make before noon, I quitted in my gig to examine
the place, and seek a suitable position for my
tents.

On landing, I proceeded to call on the military
commandant, Major Darby Griffiths, of the 90th,
from whom I experienced much civility, and the
utmost readiness to further my pursuits. The posi-
tion fixed on was the space between the magazine
and the rampart on the Utrecht bastion, free from
guns or other iron materials ; the composition of the
rocks being either entirely granite, or pure coral
limestone.

I am, perhaps, tediously particular in mentioning
these points ; but I have particularly felt the want
of such precise information, when making a port,
and it is of importance to know between what two
actual points meridian distances have been measured.

I had hoped to be able to obtain a series of moon
culminations ; but so uncertain was the weather, that
after getting the transit into the meridian, not a
single opportunity offered of getting both moon and
star ; and it was only by a severe attention for the
whole progress of the sun from half past eight until half
past ten, a. m., over every ten minutes of altitude, that
I secured corresponding observations to enable me

266 DESCRIPTION OF GALLE. [1842.

to quit. In other respects, all our observations
were particularly satisfactory. These being com-
pleted on the evening of the 25th, the tents and
observatory were embarked.

The night previous to our arrival, the steamer
India, from Calcutta and Madras, with passengers
for the overland mail, touched here for passengers
and fuel, and departed on the evening we arrived oiF
the port. She had on board several of our China com-
panions, Captains Anson, Fletcher, Col. Adams, 18th
regiment Royal Irish, and others whom I was anxious
to meet. The Lame had landed them at Madras, and
had not yet passed on, although they quitted Macao
a week before us.

Point de Galle, or Galle, as it is simply termed
by the residents, is situated on a peninsula, about
half a mile in length by one-third of a mile in breadth,
and is entirely comprised within the walls of the
fortification ; the parapets on the neck of the penin-
sula being about fifty to sixty feet in height. It
was built by the Dutch ; which may possibly account
for the fact that none of the houses enjoy a view
of the harbour, and consequently are not much
benefited by the pure sea breeze. The greater part
of the town, inhabited by the lower orders, is si-
tuated betwen the sea walls, and the houses occupied
by government oflScers, which rise on the slope of the
hill, on the land side. One exception, however,
exists, in the house of the master attendant, Mr.
Twynham, which is situated on the crown of a small

1842.] SUPPLIES. 267

detached hill, commanding a free view from S. E.
to N. W.

We experienced the most marked attention from
this gentleman during our visit ; and his anxiety to
further our wishes in every point connected with
our duties, calls for my warmest acknowledgment.
Having been, during the whole of our visit, closely
engaged in observatory duties, I was unable to see
anything beyond the ramparts. My visits were
confined to the major, the clergyman, and Mr. Twyn-
ham. A little recreation would have improved
us all, but the general anxiety for home, and
an impression that our sick would be better if ex-
posed to the full sea breeze, forbade any detention
beyond the moments absolutely required to com-
plete our details.

The climate is delightful, and having experienced
the sultry heat of Trincomalee, one can hardly believe
that so few miles intervene, and that it is only six
degrees north of the equator. It bears the charac-
ter of being very healthy, is about a day's journey
from Colombo, and two from Kandy.

Supplies of bullocks, poultry, and pigs, are easily
obtained, and at a reasonable price. Water is sup-
plied by the master attendant. Strangers cannot
easily enter the port without a pilot ; and then it is
customary to station boats with flags on the most
dangerous patches, which vary from three to twelve
feet. Ships are usually moored with the bowers to
seaward, and the stream in shore astern, which, by

268 CURRENTS. [1842.

keeping the ship's head to the SM'ell, prevents great
wear and tear, independent of comfort.

After experiencing much attention and kindness
during our short visit, we quitted Galle on the morn-
ing of the 27th, with more regret than any place
since quitting China. Our course was directed to
reach the great Maldavia Atoll, but light airs pre-
vented our advancing more than twenty-five miles by
noon the day following. We were then in one hun-
dred and seventy fathoms, and another attempt was
made with the dredge, but she had drifted into one
hundred fathoms before it reached bottom. The
result of this experiment afforded us four live shells,
of the genus chama. Sea at surface 82°, at the
depth of one hundred fathoms 46° 5'.

We gradually edged off W. S. W., and the winds
and currents driving us to the southward, forbade all
hope of reaching King's Island : we therefore steered
a course to pass through the " one and a half degree
channel," which we entered about midnight on the
31st of January, and with a fresh breeze from N. E.
expected to have been close in with the island, as
laid down in our charts, before daylight ; but in this
we were disappointed ; nor did we see land at all,
having very probably been carried through the
channel by the breeze and current before dawn.

Pleasant breezes and smooth water favoured us until
the 7th of February, when in latitude 0° 40' N.
longitude 60° 50' E., the wind veered to south, and
we were again teazed by light airs, calms, and va-

1842.] MARINE ANIMALS. 269

riables. Up to this date we had experienced a
strong current setting to the S.W., and varying from
twenty-five to thirty miles in twenty-four hours.
This current failed with the breeze.

Several tropic birds, noddies and boobies, were
observed, and strong ripplings of currents. Soundings
were tried for with two hundred fathoms, but without
success. By the towing net we took a great variety
of medusae, mollusca, fine glassy Crustacea, various
hyalaea, nautilus, sepia, minute fish, particularly
several varieties of balistes, and large 7'ed (unboiled)
shrimps. These varieties we continued to obtain
daily, particularly the glassy Crustacea in masses, un-
til crossing the equator in longitude 58° E., when
several specimens of the live double-keeled nautilus
were taken, and we were deserted by our old friends.
It was remarkable that those which were likely to
evade the net by night, as the nautilus and hyalaea,
were taken at dawn or after sunset.

These were again succeeded by solid masses of
transparent (probably) medusae, but not exhibiting
organization ; gulf- weed, (fucus natans,) balistes,
four-finned flying fish, and helix lanthina.

To those inclined to pursue the study of medusae,
Crustacea, &c., the tropics afford abundant field ; but
the pursuit requires perseverance, good apparatus,
and a person to watch when the velocity is such as
to injure the net, when it should be raised.

In this department of natural history, objects are
seldom wanting in sea voyages, and such pursuits

270 PORT VICTORIA. [1842.

tend considerably to lighten the tedium necessarily
attendant on calms, adverse winds, &c.

We had reached within one hundred and eighty
miles of the Sechelles Islands, one of which I had
selected for my next position, but heavy squalls, rains,
calms, and variables, sorely tried our patience.

On the 12th, being within one hundred miles of
Sechelles, flying fish, circular radiated medusae, and
Crustacea, were numerous, as well as fucus natans, and
a peculiar flag-weed not before noticed. It is perhaps
worthy of note, that in this region the fuci appear to
be very healthy and in full fruit.

On the 18th, after beating two whole days to wind-
ward, we dropped our anchor at four p.m. in Port
Victoria, Sechelles, close off the Isle St. Anne, on
which I landed, and fixed on a position for our ob-
servatory, viz. the first small promontory north of
the sandy bay, where several huts formerly stood, and
immediately above the watering place, and turtle
pond. In the morning we were visited by some of
the authorities, in order to ascertain the condition of
our crew, they being at this moment rather in dread
of the small-pox.

As my pursuits would tie me to the observatory
until the necessary observations for its confirmation
were obtained, I despatched a letter to the civil
commissioner, A. Mylius, Esq., promising to visit
him on the morrow.

In the morning we took possession of the promon-
tory, and before four o'clock Sulphur Village was

6

1842.] JACK AND THE COCOA-NUTS. 271

erected, with a fine grassy spot in front, and a clear
and cool bubbling brook on our right, at which our
boats commenced watering. We were also overhung
with cocoa-nuts ; but as these were private property,
they were immediately placed under tabu. The
island being the property of Mr. Savy, I had already
sent to obtain his sanction to our holding possession
during our stay. Fortunately also, there were but
two blacks residing on the island, so that there was
little fear of disturbance, or of our attention being
distracted by purchases, &c.

Surrounded as we were by forests of cocoa-nuts,
we had some difficulty in persuading Jack that he
was not in the garden of Eden, where property was
in common. Frequent ominous falls of ponderous
bodies intimated that all my advice on the subject of
" property " (or propriety) was of little avail, and I
heartily wished the proprietor would make his appear-
ance, in order that I might make some agreement
with him as a matter of remuneration for the da-
mage which I knew he must eventually sustain.
As he did not appear to feel so much interest as
myself upon the question of his own property, I
was soon involved in other matters, leaving my
veto to be enforced if possible. I regret, however,
that two of our miscreants, not content with the
robbery of the fruit, cut down one of the young
Cocos de Mer,* a plant very difficult to rear, even in
this group, which is their only known habitat.

* The absurd stories about this fruit are not worth insertion.

272 MR. MYLIUS AND FAMILY. [1842.

On the day following I visited Mahe, now Victoria,
and called upon Mr. Mjlius, by whom I was most
warmly welcomed. On landing, I was not a little
surprised to find our police (in uniform) had travelled
thus far to meet us on our homeward route. Steam
is no doubt doing wonders, but I naturally asked how
came these coats here ? However, the fine ebony
countenance beneath the black beavers in a broiling
hot day soon undeceived me ; no Englishman has a
head thick enough to stand that. The clothes are

o

remarkably well-made, and the men carry themselves
quite a la militaire.

The family of Mr. Mylius consists of his wife, a lady
of Mauritius, three daughters and governess, besides
petites. In a few minutes I was quite at home, and
the disappointment that I was not to occupy the
apartments prepared for me (as I was compelled to
return before eight) was too genuine to be doubted.
This, however, was but a visit of ceremony, and after
an early dinner, I regained the island, a distance of
about three miles.

On Tuesday they paid a visit to Sulphur Town
and the ship, and on the day following, I managed
to spare a day to examine Mahe, the officers joining
us at dinner.

The port and town have lately changed their
name from Mahe to that of Victoria; but I think in
compliment to her Majesty that they should pre-

but it is of great interest as a botanical rarity existing only in the
S^chelles.

1842.] BLACK rOPULATION. 273

viously have whitewashed or painted their houses, to
afford some idea of a new face. They are falling
very fast into decay. Between that formidable tro-
pical enemy the white ant, and want of paint to
protect them from the weather, they are as rusty as
any of our country barns in the west of England.

The old French residents complain bitterly of the
emancipation, and that their estates are fast falling
into decay. Indeed, the blacks, lazy at all times,
cannot be persuaded to work voluntarily, and I very
strongly suspect that the change from slavery to
freedom, or rather the entire destruction of any
control over their persons, rendering it necessary to
hold out allurements, or adequate wages, is nearer the
real cause. They either have not the means of
paying, or they cannot make their minds up to
swallow the bitter pill of paying those to whose
services they still maintain they are entitled.

I feel much interested about these people, and
can see clearly that this heavy cloud, which never
will be dispersed, must eventually blight all the
prospects of the present holders of estates. The
younger branches will never probably have the
reality so clearly painted as to become a part of their
constitutional antipathy, and will follow the example
of the better informed, provided the march of in-
tellect be not checked.

Capital they assert they have not ; slaves they
certainly have not : to hire them they have not the
means ; and unless some speculative characters drop

VOL. IL T

274 LITERARY SOCIETY. [1842.

in with their spare thousands, it is very evident that
this beautiful and very capable group will fall into
insignificance. That this does not result from want
of energy in their governor, as well as amongst
themselves, there are abundant proofs, which were
made fully apparent to me during my visit. They
have formed various useful and scientific associations,
and amongst other compliments, they forwarded im-
mediately on my arrival an official ticket of admit-
tance, accompanied by a complimentary letter from
the Literary Society of the Sechelles, enclosing at
the same time one of their almanacks. From the
interesting matter contained in the latter, I have
extracted the following description of

" DES ISLES LABOURDONNAIS DITES SECHELLES.

"These isles, twenty-nine in number, form the
archipelago, which is the most considerable of the
dependencies of the Mauritius, extending meridion-
ally from 3° 40' to 5° 35' S., and longitudinally from
55° 15' to 56° 0' E., and situated about nine hun-
dred and fifteen miles from the Mauritius. They
were discovered and examined in 1742 by the
Tartan, Elizabeth, Captain Lazare Picault, de-
spatched by Monsieur Mahe de Labourdonuais from
the Isle of France. The captain took possession in
the name of the king of France, naming them the
Labourdonuais Islands, and the principal or largest,
Mahe, which name it still preserves. At a later

1842.] ISLANDS OF THE SECHELLES. 275

period the name of Sechelles was substituted for
that of Sabourdonnais, in compliment to the Vis-
count Herault de Sechelles."

[Note. — Yet the French inhabitants affect to be
dissatisfied at the change of the name of the port to
that of our beloved Queen, maintaining the honour
for Mahe. Had they persisted in Picault, I could
have comprehended their feelings ; but as they
readily dropped Labourdonnais, like good children,
when they were bidden, I think even Mahe might
die a similar death, without a well-founded groan.]

The names of the twenty-nine are comprehended
as follows, an asterisk denoting those which deserve
the names of islands, the remainder being mere
rocks. 1 Mahe,* 2 St. Anne,* 3 Aux Cerfs,*
(not inhabited,) 4 Anonyme, 5 South-East, 6 Longue,
7 Mayenne, 8 Ronde, 9 Therese, 10 La Concep-
tion, 11 Silhoutte,* 12 Du Nord,* 13 Praslin,* 14
La Digue,* 15 Curieuse, 16 Ronde, 17 Aride, 18
Felicete,* 19, 20 Les Deux Soeurs, 21 Marianne,*
22 Recife,* 23 Les Mammelles, 24, 25 Cousin et
Cousinne, 26 Fregate,* 27 Vaches Marines, 28
Denis, 29 Platte, 30 Bird Island, not mentioned ;
the northernmost in 3° 32' S.

The island of Mahe, taken from Captain Owen's
Survey, is sixteen miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., and
about five miles in its widest point, and encloses all
its islets in a sweep of forty- five miles. It is moun-
tainous, with high jutting perpendicular cliffy peaks,
intersected freely by ravines, and plentifully sup-

T 2

276 MAKE. [1842.

plied therefrom by water, resulting from perpetual
condensation and showers. The soil is reddish, con-
sisting principally of a decomposed granite, well
adapted for vegetable productions, and, as before
noticed, well- watered by the branches, natural as
well as artificial, from the ravines.

On the eastern side of the island is the town
situated at the mouth of a valley, formed by a chain
of high mountains, bristling with rugged rocks, and
surmounted by large trees. The most elevated
point of this range is termed Morne Blanc, at the
base of which several meandering streams traverse
the town. The houses are built entirely of wood ;
they consist solely of a ground floor, and are generally
surrounded by fruit trees within a palisade. Opposite
and in front, within the semicircle formed by the isles
St. Anne, Longue, Moyenne, Ronde, and L'lle aux
Cerfs, is the road of Mahe, now changed to Port
Victoria, which might accommodate a large number
of vessels; but I think I may safely (talking of
vessels) reduce the number from three or four hun-
dred to thirty or forty ; and even that number
cannot pick their berths.

Owing to the transparency of the water, all abso-
lute dangers are visible, and the port or inner har-
bour may be safely resorted to, where vessels intend-
ing to remain any time, will find the water smoother,
and without that swell which renders the outer
anchorage (by reason of a heavy ground swell con-
stantly turning in) very unpleasant. We also found

1842.] LINE OF THE MONSOONS. 277

the anchorage near St. Anne's rocky, but the pipe-
clay between the rocks holds well.

I would advise any vessel anchoring near that is-
land, to run out the stream anchor astern in the
direction of the swell, otherwise, upon any sudden
flaw off shore during the night, she may be subjected
to a sudden fit of rolling before it can be remedied ;
and kedges at that moment are liable to injure
men as well as boats. The " stitch in time " should
be borne in mind here. I know it to my cost.

Although situated so near the equator, these
islands do not experience a high temperature ; its
range is very limited, and the only atmospheric
changes which are remarked are the N.W. monsoons
or gales, accompanied by lightning and heavy rains.
The hurricanes of the Mauritius do not reach these
limits.

The two monsoons, S. E. and N. W., observe
nearly the same periods and character as those of
Hindostan. The S.E. monsoon, or dry season, com-
mences in xipril, and terminates in November. The
N. W. monsoon, or rainy season, commences in
November, and terminates in March. Sometimes,
however, the breezes from the S.E. die away, and
are succeeded by variables, accompanied by rain, but
never of long duration.

The Sulphur experienced very strong south-
easterly currents and winds from S.E., E.S.E., N.E.,
N., N.W., and S.W., within the last one hundred
and eighty miles north-easterly from this group, and

278 ADVANTAGES OF THE SECHELLES. [1842.

calms and rain tedionsly frequent. This was during
the early part of February.

The report on Sechelles informs us that " Few
parts of the world are so favoured by nature as the
Sechelles. Situated near the middle of the Indian
Ocean, nearly equidistant from the neighbouring
lands, they offer, besides a fine and secure roadsted,
a climate equable and salubrious. Not liable to
abrupt changes of atmosphere, they are exempt
from those diseases so common to other tropical
regions ; nor are they visited by those scourges,
the hurricanes, which elsewhere destroy all agricul-
tural efforts, and are inevitably followed by misery
and distress."

Some navigators are of opinion that these islands
were known to the Arabs and seamen of the six-
teenth century, but they certainly were not colonized
until the year 1742. The first settlers who came to
establish themselves amounted to seven, all of
French origin. In the first instance they occupied
themselves in taking turtle : but as the islands soon
assumed more importance, Mons. St. Miel was ap-
pointed provisional governor for the king of France,
succeeded by Messrs. Roman ville, Berthelotte, Eilotte,
Malavois, Caradec, Nageon, Enouf, and finally, M.
Queau de Quincy was appointed a military com-
mandant and civil agent for the French Republic.

The population soon increased by the addition of
several families from Bourbon and Mauritius, living
very happily, and almost as one family, and much

1842.] CESSION OF THE GROUP. 279

attached to the latter governor, who reigned over
them, as a father, for a period exceeding twenty
years, and subsequently, as juge de paix under the
British government, for eighteen.

The turn of war, however, brought its change for
Sechelles. On the 16th May, 1794, Captain New-
come, commanding his Majesty's ship Orpheus,
and having under his orders his Majesty's ship Cen-
turion, Captain Osborne, and Resistance, Captain
Pakenham, anchored in the roads, and demanded
fi'om the commandant the cession of the Sechelles
group.

As the style, &c., of the transaction, appears to be
original I have transcribed the document.

" By Henry Newcome, Esq., captain of his Bri-
tannic Majesty's ship Orpheus, and senior officer of
his Britannic Majesty's ships employed on a particular
service, &c., &c., &c.

" I do, in his Britannic Majesty's name, demand an
instant surrender of the island of Mahe and its de-
pendencies, with everything in and belonging there-
to.

" I give you one hour from the delivery of this
message to decide. If any resistance is made, you
must abide by the consequence thereof.

" Given under my hand on board of his Ma-
jesty's ship Orpheus, this 16th day of May,
1794.

Signed, " Henry Newcome."

280

CAPITULATION.

[1842.

The following capitulation was then offered and
replied to.

CAPITULATION, MAY 17, 1794.

Jean Baptiste, Queau Quincy, Henry Newcome, captain

captain au regiment de Poncli- of his Majesty's ship, Orpheus,
cherry. No. 137, commandant and senior officer of his Ma-
militaire, et agent civil pour jesty's ships and vessels, em-
la repuhlique Francaise aux ployed on a particular service,
iles Mah6 ou Sechelles, Prashn, &c., &c., &c.
et autres adjacentes, propose
la capitulation suivante au Com-
modore Newcome, command-
ant rOrpheus, pour sa ma-
jeste Britannique, la division
et f expedition particuhere, com-
pose du Centurion, Captain Os-
borne, et de la Resistance, Cap-
tain Pakenham, d'apres sa som-

mation en date du 16 Mai,

1794.

Art. 1 . La colonie, place, et

la batterie de file Mahe, ou

Sechelles, Praslin, et toutes les

dependances, se rendront au

Commodore Newcome, le 17

Mai presente annee, a neuf

heures de matin. La garnison

Anglaise s'emparera des postesj

batteries, batimens civils, et le

pavilion Anglaise sera lisse sur

la place.

Art. 2. La batterie de la

place tirera trois pieces a bou-

let ; il sera fait trois decharges

de mouskcttrie avant d'amener

le pavilion Francais.

Art. 1 . I shall take posses-
sion of the colony of Mahe and
its dependencies.

Art. 2. Agreed.

1842.]

CAPITULATION.

281

Art. 3. Les propri^tes des
habitans seront tres respectees,
il ne leur sera cause aucun
trouble, ni dommage dans leurs
biens, meublesjimmeubles, vais-
seaux, marchandises, esclaves,
et dans leur personne en au-
cune maniere.

Art. 4. Les batteries, mu-
nitions, canons, magasins,
toutes les batimens civils et
effets appartenant a la repub-
lique, ne seront pas touchees :
le tout restera dans I'etat ac-
tuel.

Art. 5. Le commandant
militaire, et agent civil, ne sera
point fait prisonnier de guerre.

Art. 6. Les registres et pa-
piers, utiles aux citoyens habi-
tans, et ceux de la republique
pour la comptabilite seront re-
spectees et non visites ; etant in-
teressant pour les families et
pour I'etat que les choses aussi
necessaires soient conservees.

Art. 7. Ladite capitulation
faite de bonne foi sera garantee
par la signature du Commodore

Art. 3. Private property
shall be respected. The in-
habitants and their slaves shall
remain unmolested.

I take the brig Olivette.

Art. 4. The cannons, mili-
tary stores, and effects belong-
ing to the republic in their
magazines shall be at my dis-
posal.

The public buildings shall
be preserved. The two smaU
pieces, carrying two pounds
balls, shall be permitted to re-
main on the parade facing the
government-house, for the pur-
pose of making signals, in
case of insurrection amongst
the slaves.

Art. 5. He shall be pri-
soner of war only during my
stay.

Art. 6. Agreed.

Art. 7. Agreed.

282 POLITICAL IMPORTANCE. [1842.

Newcombe, et signee par le
commandant militaire et agent
civil, et par trois citoyens habi-
tans des Sechelles representant
le corps de citoyens des iles
Mahe, ou Sechelles et Praslin.

Fait a Mahe iles Sechelles Done on board his Bri-
le 17 Mai, 1794. tannic Majesty's ship, Orpheus,

(Signe) J. B. Queau Quingy. in the roads of Mahe or Se-
chelles, the 1 7th day of INIay,
1794.
Signed, Henry Newcome.

Nevertheless, it was not without apprehension
that the inhabitants returned to their pursuits ; but
the capture of Bourbon and Mauritius re-established
their confidence ; and the definitive peace of 1814,
where these islands became a dependency on Mauri-
tius, entirely revived commercial relations.

France certainly lost here a very important posi-
tion. But it was equally important to Great Bri-
tain, that Mauritius should not have so formidable
a position in the hands of strangers, — commanding the
commerce of these seas, from Africa, and throughout
the Red Sea, up to Ceylon; the very key of our western
trade. But it is still unfortified, and nearly as bare
of defence as in 1742.

Upon the cessation of the Mauritius, the govern-
ment of these isles devolved upon an agent or com-
missioner, under the government of Mauritius. At
this period the free population numbered five hun-
dred and sixty-six persons, and the census gave the

1842.] PRODUCTIONS. 283

blacks at six thousand six hundred and thirty-eight
souls. This figure is at present considerably dimi-
nished.

Since Great Britain has assumed the government
of the isles, the following persons appear to have
held the appointments of commandant and civil
agents ; Sullivan, Quincy, Lesage, Madge, Harrison,
(1826) Wilson, (1837,) C. A. Mylius, Esq., civil
commissioner and present resident, (1838.)

Of the productions of the Sechelles, I can only
refer to those which, during our short visit, came
under my observation, and of which I obtained some
few samples, through the kindness of my friend Mr.
Mylius.

Cotton, coffee, cocoa, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg,
anatto, maize, and fruits and vegetables of every
species found within the trojjics. It is indeed a
garden, in which anything would thrive. Any spe-
cies of habit, soil, or climate may be selected, from
the close damp heat of the forcing-house, to the
open exposed sun and air, moist or dry.

The timber is much esteemed for ship building ;
and I am given to understand that the Hibiscus
tiliaceus, or purau of the Polynesian Islands, so use-
ful in boat building, could be obtained here in any
quantity. The hard wood used for ships' timbers
very much resembles the Tamanu, (Calophyllum
inophyllum) of the Pacific, or mahogany; but is
more easily worked; in fact, better adapted for
ship building.

284 SHIP-BUILDING. [1842.

The finer woods for cabinet purposes are also
abundant, and many pieces of furniture, particularly
that made of the bois de nat, are very beautiful.

It ajjpears that since 1810, with their reduced
force of artificers, they have launched no less than
forty-five vessels, ranging from thirty to four hun-
dred tons, and amounting altogether to four thou-
sand five hundred and two tons. Several are at
present on the stocks, one of one hundred tons, and
one of four hundred and twenty tons.

We found a French national schooner (a tender)
from Bourbon, hauled up to rebuild ; her crew occu-
jiying a small islet.

The islands abound with cocoa-nuts, fruit, vegeta-
bles, fish, turtle, and bullocks, and they offer every
inducement for refit and recruit (secure from hurri-
canes) to our cruizers in these seas. Such visits,
indeed, are for many strong reasons of the utmost
importance, and more particularly to the authorities.

In point of medical aid also, it would be of the
highest benefit, as notwithstanding the boasted salu-
brity of the climate, there are many casualties
and connnon diseases which frequently defy ordinary
treatment in those not 'professing skill ; and at the
period of our visit no such persons acted at Victoria
or on the island of Mahe ; consequently our surgeon
was a most welcome and important visitant.

With but slight expense, a very convenient depot
for stores, and jetty for heaving down, might be
constructed, the reefs within the port aflbrding

1842.] WELCOME STORM. 285

every facility, rising suddenly within a foot of the
sea level, and having a depth of three or four fa-
thoms at the distance of thirty feet, which would be
about the position for the keel of a line-of-battle
ship.

In consequence of the complete stagnation of
lousiness, we found money scarce, and bills not nego-
tiable ; we even experienced difficulty in arranging
for the few supplies obtained.

The principal objects of our visit having been
completed, viz. the measurement of the meridian
distance and magnetic details, we took leave of our
kind friends, Mr. Mylius and family, to whom we
are indebted for much kindness, civility, and enjoy-
ment, and on the evening of the 24th February
quitted our anchorage.

Favoured by a heavy squall of thunder, lightning,
and rain, we rounded the southern end of Mahe
about midnight. It is not frequent that seamen
hail such meteorological visitors with satisfaction, but
tantalised so long as we have been, on this our
homeward voyage, by such a series of calms and
variables, we were grateful for any incident which
would speed us to the Cape, where, doubtless, want
of wind will be our last complaint.

Having cleared this group, we endeavoured to
close or pass to the northward of the Amirantes, or
even to the westward of any of the islands situated
in our route to Madagascar ; but our old bad for-
tune pursued us, the currents driving us rapidly to

286 SURVEYING PRIVILEGES. [1842.

the S.E, The weather, also, prevented our obtain-
ing the necessary observations for navigating with
the requisite precision through these dangers.

I often fancy there is something about a survey-
ing shi^?, which helps her through difficulties in the
most extraordinary manner, and especially so in the
case of the Sulphur. Surveyors are, indeed, in plain
terms, pilots, and as such endued with a species of in-
tuitive impression of where they are, in spite of all
obstacles. This was most fully exemplified on the
morning of the 2nd of March, when, by the reckon-
ing we were well to the westward of Providence
Island. I felt otherwise, and doubled the precau-
tions. At da\vn we found the reefs under our bows,
and only fifteen fathoms of water beneath us. One
hour later daylight might not have given sufficient
notice. However, the ship was soon leaving it as
rapidly as she had approached, and edging along the
reef, varying our soundings from five to twenty
fathoms, and steering from S.S.W. to E.S.E. for
twenty miles, cleared its southern extremity about
noon.

Unfortunately, the absence of sun and horizon, and
the prevalence of heavy rain, prevented our making
any satisfactory examination of this danger. The
bank of soundings appears to trend S.S.E. from Provi-
dence Island, as in most instances we had to haul
out E.S.E., to keep in ten or fifteen fathoms, and
always shoaled when changing our course to South.
The bottom appears tolerably even, and it was

1842.] MAJAMBO BAY. 287

plainly visible, composed of sand, studded with small
rocky patches. There was but little surf. At the
moment we rounded the southern tail, the main
island bore N. i W.

Before dark we made Farquhar's, and the Six
Islands broad on our lee-beam, and we now had hopes
of weathering the north end of Madagascar, a point
until this moment (and even then) very problemati-
cal in my mind.

On the 5th of March, we rounded Cape Sebastian,
but still experienced a strong current against us.
On the 9th, despairing of reaching Bembatooka, in
reasonable time to make good our meridian distance,
we bore up at noon, and ran into Majambo Bay,
west coast of Madagascar, where we anchored about
four p. M., off a low sandy point well adapted for our
observatory. I should have selected the northern
point, as that given in Captain Owen's chart ; but
the anchorage being unsafe, and landing dangerous,
I contented myself with a position two miles further
to the southward.

The tents, &c., were erected before dark, and
having my fowling-piece with me, I succeeded in
killing a few partridges of a species entirely new to
us.

Fortunately we succeeded in obtaining our suite
of observations the day following, which was a great
consolation after our late incessant rains.

Not a sign appeared of any recent huts, villages,
or inhabitants ; and the whole coast, although grate-

288 NATURE OF THE COAST. [1842.

ful to the eye, was barren of amusement, save to
the sportsman, and probably the botanist. The
former found full employment.

The tree palm, of several varieties, acacias, tama-
rinds, a plum with four seeds, in great abundance,
and many unknown fruits, abounded. Many bulbous
roots occurred in the sand immediately about us,
and during a short ramble, I collected several ob-
jects which may prove interesting.

Amongst the reptiles, we obtained iguanas, lizards,
chameleons of three varieties, with centipedes,
cockroaches, and two large snakes (apparently water.)

The birds comprised partridges, quail, waders,
ducks, guinea fowl (very large and heavy,) curlew,
hawks, kingfishers, parroquets, and several minute
birds of gaudy plumage.

The soil on our immediate location, and which
appeared to constitute even the high hills behind
us, was entirely fine quartz sand, a perfect waste for
acres in spots. A very remarkable formation was
noticed outside from the ship, when entering, and
situated about three miles west of the north point.
It doubtless was this same sand, which giving May
to the heavy rains, left a valley of grotesque lamellar
pyramids, resembling the ruins of a city, and having on
the two sides broad streams of sand flowing to the sea.

Where the rocks protruded, they were found to
be a close aggregation of shells, and from their posi-
tion i)robably of ancient date.

About seven or eight miles to the southward, on

1842.] GEOLOGY. 289

the same side of the bay, I visited the cliff, to ascer-
tain the nature of the rock, which I found to be
superstratum coarse red sandstone ; No. 2, indu-
rated clay ; No. 3, apparently the same in a more in-
durated state ; substratum softer, apparently pipe-
clay. Large black blocks and boulders were
noticed on the summits, which (from some which had
apparently been cast on the beach,) I presume to
be the coarse sandstone conglomerate. The water
flowed over the cliffs and down the ravines in pro-
fusion.

We obtained mullet of several varieties, and
very large. Porgy and other tropical fish were
abundant ; several unknown. These were taken by
a net set across a creek at high water ; but they
were all spoiled, from want of proper salt for the
curing mixture. Large sharks were abundant, and
pieces of turtle ; but none of the latter noticed alive,
nor their tracks on the extensive sandy beaches.

Latterly one or two natives were seen near the
northern point, but none would communicate.

Having completed our labours on the 15th March,
we embarked, and put to sea that night. For seve^
ral previous evenings, we had been visited by heavy
squalls, attended with rain, thunder, and lightning,
and this night we experienced rather an unpleasant
attack, which laid our lee cabins under water, and
did much damage in our department.

Our crew still continued to suffer from their

VOL. IL u

-i)0 ADVERSE WEATHER. [1842.

diseases contracted in China, and on the eighth G.
Spry, a promising lad, fell another victim.

The same worrying- weather continued to attend
us, and on the lOtli we had only advanced ninety
miles from our Port of Departure. We fell in with
an American schooner, trading between Zanzibar
and Bembatooka, but gained no intelligence from
her. Indeed, our track has laid so completely out of
the commercial line, that the sight of a strange sail
is quite an event.

We now shaped our course to reach the nearest
point of the African coast, hoping to meet with the
strong southerly currents said to 'prevail in the Mo-
zambique.

On the 31st of March we had only reached latitude
22° 11' S., longitude 3(3° 31' E., but a very heavy
long-jawed swell from the S.E. plainly indicated
that heavy breezes had prevailed in that direction.

Many objects of interest offered, more indeed
than the calls on my time could allow me to attend
to as closely as they merited. By the towing net,
living nautilus, several varieties of hyala^a, cleodora,
minute univalves, glossy nautilus, and Crustacea in
great variety, abundance, and beauty : enough to
afford ample enjoyment to the naturalist, and as
many draughtsmen as he could find. But in this
latter point the Sulphur was at a very low ebb.

Pressed still to the northward, current bottles were
thrown overboard at eligible points. Temperature at

1842.] LAGULLAS BANK. 291

79° 5', atmosphere moist, and sick list rather on the
increase ; and to add to these inconveniences, and
render our crew less contented, provisions barely
sufficient to reach the Cape by reducing one third,
until we reach the range of steady or strong breezes.

It had been my intention to have made one more
station at Delagoa Bay, but under these circum-
stances, and without a chance of obtaining bread or
flour there, I was forced to give up all idea of delay,
or risk of being caught in that bight by strong south-
east breezes.

On the 2nd April we reached in to Point Barrow,
where we experienced a fresh working breeze, and by
working close in shore, rounded Cape Corrientes be-
fore dark. At this point we first experienced the
influence of the southerly current, and from this
date made great progress, but the favourable breezes
never continued longer than thirty-six hours, and
were generally succeeded by one exactly adverse.

On the 10th we struck soundings on the east
shoulder of Lagullas bank, in seventy fathoms, and
at eight a. m. were about thirty miles S. W. of Cape
Reciffe. Although we ran offshore thirteen miles, our
soundings varied only from sixty-five to seventy
fathoms.

Here, baffling winds detaining us, fishing lines and
dredges were in action. Two very acceptable fish of
the Porgy tribe were hooked, and nine univalves,
five bivalves, three euryale, and several echini, were
obtained by the dredge from sixty-five fathoms;

u 2

292 TEMPERATURE OF SOUNDINGS. [1842.

sea at surface 64°, bottom 62°, and evidently fossil.
Not more than a degree difference of temperature was
noticed at first entering soundings. But as this was
more minutely watched, as we purposely edged in and
off the bank, it was found off the southern edge to
chano-e from 64° to 67°. In the Pacific this had

o

been narrowly watched, but the law was found to
be inapplicable, even oft' the mouth of the river
Columbia, Sitka, and high northern latitudes.

On the 12th of April, being becalmed in fog, about
one hundred and eight miles off Cape Hanklip, the
dredge was dropped in seventy fathoms, by which
many very interesting specimens were procured, par-
ticularly of Terebratula, which occurred alive and in
great variety.

On the 13th, at noon, we were twenty-two miles
off Cape Hanklip, and the breeze favouring us, ex-
pected momentarily to see it break out from the sur-
rounding haze. About three p.m., we passed it
within three miles, and at four, sighted the South-
ampton, bearing the flag of Vice-admiral Sir E.
King.

Strong haze and fog, with sun directly in our faces,
did not admit our making out anything before we
were abreast Roman Rocks, having overrun our dis-
tance much, and before our number could be made
we were rather close upon the flag-ship. Having
but one pair of signal halliards the number and the
pendant could not enjoy the mast head together,
and when the former came down the ensign went

1842.] MAGNETISM. 293

up. Some other trifling accidents prevented our
taking up our intended berth, and probably not
shifting our ensign in time ; for all of which I was
made to feel very keenly on paying my respects.

On board the Southampton I had the good for-
tune to meet my old friend Captain Ogle, with
whom I had become acquainted at Callao, when
commander of the President, in 1838. We had not
the good fortune to receive a single letter for any
individual on board the Sulphur.

As the refit of the ship could be conducted by the
first lieutenant, the moment I was released by the
admiral, I obtained leave to repair to the Royal
Observatory, Cape Town, in order to compare our
magnetic instruments with those at the Magnetic
Observatory conducted by Lieutenant Wilmot, R.N.,
thus affording decided values to the series observed
at the station between this and Singapore.

I experienced a very warm reception from Lieu-
tenant Wilmot. Mr. Maclear, the astronomer royal,
was absent on the triangulation connected with the
measurement of the meridian, but from his able
factotum, Mr. Mann, I received much kind assist-
ance, and every facility which the observatory af-
forded. The result of my observations proved that
I had no reason to doubt the steadiness of the dip
or declination instruments, as they agreed sufficiently
close with the observations of the days. The in-
tensity will be proved hereafter. Of these I had
less doubt, from their general uniformity during our

294 AMERICAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. [1842.

stay in China, as well as between our periods of ob-
servation (one year) at Singapore.

During my visit to Cape Town I had the plea-
sure of renewing my acquaintance with Commodore
Wilkes, (lieutenant. United States navy,) command-
ing the United States Exploring Expedition, and
wdio had behaved so handsomely to us when we un-
shipped our rudder at the Feejees, giving us the
rudder pintles of the Peacock. We had many
affairs to talk over, and many notes to compare,
as he had visited the greater number of our stations,
and unfortunately lost one of his consorts, the Pea-
cock, on the north bar of the river Columbia, where
she became a total wreck, the crew barely escaping
with their lives.

On my return to Simon's Bay, our needles were
again tested at the position occupied by Captains
James Clarke Ross, and Crozier, and the ship being
ready for sea, we most joyfully quitted Simon's Bay
for St. Helena. Fortunately, the breeze favoured
us, and by midnight we passed within musket-shot
of the Bellows Rock, and were once more in the
Atlantic. A heavy sea on our beam caused us to
roll and strain much for several days, but this soon
wore off, and we contrived to drop our anchor on the
14th day at St. Helena.

Here I found her Majesty's ship Grecian, com-
manded by my old shipmate. Captain Smyth, (in
three vessels since 1814,) whom I very soon had the
pleasure of shaking by the hand ; and having made

1842.] PLANTATION HOUSE. 295

the necessary arrangements for pitching my tent
where Captain Ross observed, galloped off to Plan-
tation House, to pay my respects to the governor,
Colonel Trelawney, R.A., who received us without
formality, introduced us to his family, and mounting
his horse, accompanied us to Long wood, to call on
Lieutenant Smyth, in charge of the magnetic obser-
vatory.

We were rather late, and met Mr. Smyth at the
gate. Turning our horses, he walked a considerable
distance in conversation with us; just long enough
to make us regret that we were to part so soon.
Enveloped in darkness, and roads rather doubtful,
we did not return quite so expeditiously, reaching
Plantation House about eight o'clock, and sat down
to dinner, much, I fear, to the discomfiture of family
arrangements.

Duty compelling our return that evening, we re-
mounted our horses soon after dinner, very much
against our own inclinations, and not without many
expressions of chagrin on the part of our kind host ;
and about midnight reached James' Town, where,
by the hospitality of our good friend, Mr. Solomon,
or rather the friend of the navy, we were comforta-
bly housed.

Our visit was repeated the day following, and on
Monday, the governor, accompanied by his second
daughter, chief-justice, (Wild,) and one or two
friends, paid a visit to the Sulphur and Grecian,
very much to our gratification.

296 ASCENSION. [1842.

Our duties complete, we quitted shortly after day-
light, I must say with great regret. Possibly had the
Grecian remained, I might have stolen another day
or two to make it a rating position, and shortened
my stay at Ascension. Our visits of sunshine have
been " few and far between" during the harassing
period of our servitude, and when we meet with
kindness, with such true honest English feeling in
particular as that experienced at St. Helena, al-
thougli " homeward hound^' we did regret that our
friendship was to terminate so suddenly. Captain
Smyth breakfasted with me off the port, and our
long explanations and tales of other times, rapidly
recapitulated, and but half exhausted, (and who but
sailors can participate in such revellings ?) we parted
with a hearty cordial grasp, to finish our stories at a
future day.

Shortly the beautiful, well-handled Grecian stole
close on our lee-quarter, and hauling suddenly to the
Avind across our stern, slipped oiF with a last fare-
Well, like a sea bird, whilst the Sulphur was bruising
the blue sea in a most collier-like style.

Our course was now directed for Ascension, and
with a fine fresh trade we reached the anchorage
about two A.M. on the fourth day. We found here
the Albert, one of the unfortunate Niger expedition,
commanded by Commander Fishbourne, awaiting
further orders.

He called on me the following morning, and af-
forded us all the late English news. Our operations

1842.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 297

were speedily completed at this island, and having
embarked all the invalids anxiously awaiting pas-
sage, we took leave of the Albert on the evening of
the 18th of May.

Ascension affords but little to interest the casual
observer. It has long been famed for the abundance
of turtle, of which we did not fail to embark our
due allowance : but with the exception of water, it
rather looks for than affords supplies.

Our progress from hence was tediously slow. I
had intended to reach Porto Praya in the Cape de
Verds, but the great delay which occurred between
the limits allotted to the variables induced me to
give up this plan, and stretch towards the coast of
Africa, where I hoped to catch, as I had experienced
on former occasions, a leading wind which would
carry me up to the Azores.

During our detention near the equator, we were
fortunate in obtaining very large and perfect speci-
mens of the helix janthina, as well as several rare
and beautiful varieties of nautilus, hyalsea, and
cleodora.

About the beginning of June, in latitude 5° 30'
N., and longitude 16° 15' W., we began to experi-
ence the tail of the tornadoes, and on the 3rd were
visited by one in full force. At night the sea pre-
sented a very luminous appearance, and on the day
following several varieties of medusa, some resem-
bling large sepia, were obtained.

On the 17th of June, we reached Cape Blanco,

298 ARRIVAL, AND PAID OFF. [1842.

but, unlike the customary weather of the region,
found ourselves tantalised by a misty calm. This,
however, did not long continue. We succeeded in
reaching off shore, and gaining the breeze, and on
the 3rd of July passed the island of St. Michael's,
Azores. On the 1 9th, passing through the Needles,
we ran up and anchored at Spithead, when, having
paid my respects to the admiral, Sir E. Codrington,
I repaired to the Admiralty. The Sulphur was or-
dered to Woolwich, and paid off on the 2nd of Au-
gust.

The Lords of the Admiralty, in consideration of
the long servitude of the crew of the Sulphur in such
trying climates, during a period of nearly seven
years, directed that those who had exceeded five
years should be paid the increased wages due by
recent regulation, and that half of the amount of
slops during the Sulphur's voyage should be re-
mitted.

As circumstances have rendered the Marquesas of
greater interest since the period at which I treated
that subject, and I have had access to other ma-
terials since my return, I have added a fresh outline,
which will be found in the Aj^pendix to this volume.

The urgent duties which have occupied my time
since my return to England, and my immediate depar-
ture in command of a voyage of equal interest, ne-
cessarily prevents the completion of many interesting
documents, which should have been attached to these
volumes. The completion of these subjects will,

1842.] FAREWELL. 299

however, appear in the Transactions of some of our
Societies.

The department of natural history has been dis-
tributed amongst its various competent and distin-
guished labourers, under the superintendence of
Mr. Hinds, and I trust will shortly follow these
my humble records.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

No. I.
NICARAGUA.

The following has been extracted from a report made
by our vice-consul, Mr. Foster, in 1837.

The import trade of this state (Nicaragua) and the
country in general, has not suffered so much as might
have been expected from the very severe visitation of
cholera during this year.

The prices of foreign manufactures have now found
their level in these markets, and the consumption of
those articles used by the poorer classes have increased
in a wonderful degree both in quantity and quality,
and this demand for foreign manufactures (of which
" British cottons" of inferior quality bear a prominent
part) will naturally go on at an increased ratio.

The foreign imports may be classed under the follow-
ing heads.

British ; consist of calicoes, printed cottons, domestic
or grey and power-loom shirtings, linen, and cotton-

304 NICARAGUA.

mixed, or unions ; linens, muslins, hosiery ; hard earthen-
ware, iron, steel, lead, powder, Sec.

French ; consist of silks, printed cottons, cambrics,
wine, spirits, jewellery, and fancy articles.

United States; consist of domestic cottons, soap, sperm
candles, hardware, spirits of inferior quality, powder, &c.

Spanish; paper, silk, ribbon, wine, oil, spirits, &:c.

Germany: osnaburgs, glassware, wax, furniture, hard-
ware, steel, wine, &;c.

Italy ; paper, oil, silk, liqueurs.

Colombia ; cocoa, and straw hats.

PerM ; jerga, (a coarse woollen cloth,) tin, spirits, and
common sweet wine.

Chili ; of sweet wine, pellones, &c.

The value of British goods imported may be taken
at two-thirds of the whole of the imports.

The consumption of French goods, being principally
articles of luxury, are chiefly confined to the cities of
Guatemala, San Salvador, Granada, &:c. German
linens, shirtings, and glassware are articles of general
consumption. In Spanish goods, with the exception
of ribbons, the imports are trivial ; they have given way
to those of France and Italy.

The sickness of this year has had considerable in-
fluence on the exports. Cochineal and indigo form the
principal ; great quantities, particularly of the former,
are shipped from the ports on the northern side of
Honduras. From the ports of the Pacific fifteen hundred
serons have been exported during the year to Europe,
and the ports of Peru and Chili. (In the interior of
both these countries a great quantity of indigo is con-

NICARAGUA. 305

sumed.) Hides, horns, sarsaparilla, and balsam, for
Europe and the United States, and mahogany, cedar,
and sugar, for Chili and Peru. These form the prin-
cipal articles of export trade ; Avhich, in proportion to
the imports, is on the increase. Srazil wood, with
which this state as well as Costa Rica abounds, formerly
afforded employment to a great number of British
vessels. The fall of this article in the home markets
has for the present caused it to be but little sought after.

In agriculture this state is rapidly improving ; in
addition to indigo, sugar, cocoa, wheat, rice, &c., coffee
and cotton are now better attended to, but more particu-
larly cotton and indigo. The quality ofthe former, which
is much esteemed and known in the European markets
as " green seeded," is an annual plant ; the staple is
short, which is overbalanced by its superior fine texture,
and it is peculiarly adapted to certain manufactures.

New arrangements in the tariff are about to take
place, but the present state of revolution must suspend
any remark upon this question.

The province of Nicaragua has the advantage of di-
versity of climate, the plains in the vicinity of the large
towns of Leon, Granada, and Nicaragua, being tropical,
and the heights nearing the lakes from the Pacific, as
Chocoyos, Matagalpa, and Segovia, being temperate,
whilst in the region about Honduras it is generally cold,
even for an European.

The soil is everywhere fertile, and capable of yielding
every species of produce of corresponding temperature.
Mines also exist, but are not worked for want of capital
and population ; particularly as the plains afford abund-

VOL. II. X

306 NICARAGUA.

ance of nutriment to the limited population, at very
trifling labour.

The seasons are periodical, with trifling variation. The
summer, or dry season, commences the early part of No-
vember, and the winter, or wet season, in the latter end
of April, or beginning of May.

The summer is perfectly dry, at which time commer-
cial intercourse is carried on, which, during the winter,
particularly the latter end, becomes difficult, on account
of the impassability of the roads.

It is during the winter that the agriculturist com-
mences his labours, and during the months of September
and October that the rains are excessive.

The climate is considered generally very healthy, al-
though intermittent fever, by neglect, degenerates into
typhus : there are no epidemical diseases peculiar to it.
The health of the natives, as well as that of Europeans,
is influenced at the change of the seasons. Any impor-
tant deviation may be traced to neglect or excess ; par-
ticularly as regards foreigners.

The temperature in the shade ranges from seventy to
ninety in the plains near the sea coast.

The internal commerce of the country is facilitated by
good cart roads in the plains, which are practicable
(even in their neglected state) from the South Pacific to
the town of Granada on the Lake of Nicaragua.

Should rail-roads or steamers be brought into action,
the communication with the Atlantic will lead commerce
direct into the heart of the State. But of this no estimate
can be formed. The government are using every effort
to connect these lakes of Nicaragua and Managua with

NICARAGUA. 307

either ocean ; but I think the day of achievement is yet
distant. What is to repay the speculators when good
navigable access does not succeed ? A superfluity only
can warrant the undertaking. As to any canal into the
Pacific, unless behind Momotombo Telica and Viego
range, into the Estero Real, I see little feasibility in
the scheme.

The population of Nicaragua does not much exceed
one hundred and sixty thousand souls. The inhabitants
in general are honest and industrious; of the authorities
we will say but little.

Cardon, at the mouth of the port of Realejo, is situated
in 12°, 28' N., and about 87° 12' W. It has two entrances,
both of which are safe, under proper precaution, and in
all weathers. The depths vary from two to seven fathoms,
and good and safe anchorage extends for several miles ;
the rise and fall of tide is eleven feet, full and change
3h. 6m. Docks or slips therefore may easily be con-
structed, and timber is readily to be procured of any
dimensions. Wood, water, and immediate necessaries and
luxuries are plentiful and cheap. The village of Realejo
is about nine miles from the sea. Its population is about
one thousand souls; the principal occupation of the
working males is on the water, loading and unloading
vessels. It has a custom-house, and officers under a
collector, comptroller, and collector and captain of the
port ; of him or his guards we will not say too much.
The sooner they find one less troublesome the better.

One branch of the river, the Donna Paula, takes a
course towards Leon, and is navigable to within three
leagues of that city. It has been suggested to carry a

x2

308 CONVENTION WITH

rail-road from Leon to the lake of Managua. This
might be effected ; but neither the people, government,
or consideration of the returns, will at present warrant
any such step, unless as the sole act of the government.

No. II.

Convention between His Majesty, and the Emperor of
Russia, respecting the free navigation, commerce,
and fisheries in the Pacific Ocean, and the limits on
the N. W. coast of America. Signed at St. Peters-
burgh, February 28th, 1825. Presented to both
houses of Parliament by His Majesty's command,
May 1825.

His Majesty the king of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, and His Majesty the Empe-
ror of all the Russias, being desirous of drawing still
closer the ties of good understanding and friendship
which unite them, by means of an agreement which
may settle, upon the basis of reciprocal convenience, dif-
ferent points connected with the commerce, navigation,
and fisheries of their subjects on the Pacific Ocean, as
well as the limits of their respective possessions on the
N. W. coast of America, have named plenipotentiaries to
conclude a convention for this purpose ; that is to say,

THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA. 309

His Majesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Right Honourable Stratford
Canning, a member of his said Majesty's Most Honour-
able Privy Council, (fee. ; and His Majesty the Emperor
of all the Russias, the Sieur Charles Robert, Count de
Nesselrode, his Imperial Majesty's Privy Councillor, a
member of the Council of the Empire, Secretary of State
for the department of Foreign Affairs, Sec. , and the
Sieur Pierre de Politica, his Imperial Majesty's Coun-
cillor of State, &c. ; who, after having communicated to
each other their respective full powers, and found these
in good and due form, have agreed upon and signed the
following articles.

Art. I. — It is agreed that the respective subjects of
the high contracting parties shall not be troubled or
molested in any part of the ocean commonly called the
Pacific Ocean, either in navigating the same, in fishing
therein, or in landing at such parts of the coast as shall
not have been already occupied, in order to trade with
the natives, under the restrictions and conditions speci-
fied in the following articles.

Art. II. — In order to prevent the right of navigating
and fishing exercised upon the ocean by subjects of the
high contracting parties from becoming the pretext for
an illicit commerce, it is agreed that the subjects of his
Britannic Majesty shall not land at any place where there
may be a Russian establishment without the permission of
the governor or commandant; and on the other hand,
that Russian subjects shall not land, without permission,
at any British establishment on the N. W. coast.

Art. III. — The line of demarcation between the pos-

310 CONVENTION WITH

sessions of the high contracting parties upon the coast of
the continent, and the islands of America, to the north
west, shall be drawn in the manner following.

Commencing from the southernmost point of the
island, called Prince of Wales Island, (which lies in the
parallel of 54 degrees, 40 minutes, north latitude, and be-
tween the 131st and the 133rd degree of west longitude,
meridian of Greenwich,) the said line shall ascend to the
north along the channel called Portland Canal, as far as
the point of the continent where it strikes the 58th
degree of north latitude. From this last-mentioned point
the line of demarcation shall follow the summit of the
mountains situated parallel to the coast, as far as the
point of intersection of 141st degree of west longitude,
(of the same meridian,) and finally, from the same point
of intersection, the said meridian line of the 141st degree,
in its prolongation as far as the Prozen Ocean, shall
form the limit between the Russian and British posses-
sions on the continent of America to the north-west.

Art. IV. — With reference to the line of demarcation
laid down in the preceding article it is understood :

1st. That the island called Prince of Wales Is-
land shall belong wholly to Russia.

2nd. That whenever the summit of the mountains
which extend in a direction parallel to the coast,
from the 56th degree of north latitude to the point of
intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude,
shall prove to be at the distance of more than ten
marine leagues from the ocean, the limit between
the British possessions and the line of coast which is
to belong to Russia, as above mentioned, shall be

THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA. 311

formed by a line parallel to the windings of the
coast, and which shall never exceed the distance of
ten marine leagues therefrom.

Art. V. — It is moreover agreed that no establishment
shall be formed by either of the two parties within the
limits assigned by the two preceding articles to the pos-
sessions of the other ; consequently British subjects shall
not form any establishment either upon the coast or upon
the border of the continent comprised within the limits of
the Russian possessions, or designated in the two preced-
ing articles ; and in like manner no establishment shall
be formed by Russian subjects beyond the said limits.

Art. VI. — It is understood that the subjects of his
Britannic Majesty, from whatever quarter they may ar-
rive, either from the ocean or from the interior of the
continent, shall for ever enjoy the right of navigating
freely and without any hindrance whatever, all the rivers
and streams which, in their course to the Pacific Ocean,
may cross the line of demarcation upon the line of coast
described in article three of the present convention.

Art. VII. — It is also understood that for the space of
ten years from the signature of the present convention,
the vessels of the two powers, or those belonging to their
respective subjects, shall mutually be at liberty to fre-
quent, without any hindrance whatever, all the inland
seas, the gulphs, havens, and creeks on the coast, men-
tioned in article three, for the purposes of fishing and of
trading with the natives.

Art. VIII. — The post of Sitka or Novo Archangelsk,
shall be open to the commerce and vessels of British
subjects for the space of ten years from the date of the
7

312 CONVENTION.

exchange of the ratifications of the present convention.
In the event of an extension of the term of ten years being
granted to any other power, the like extension shall be
granted also to Great Britain.

Art. IX. — The above-mentioned liberty of commerce
shall not apply to the trade in spirituous liquors, in fire-
arms, or other arms, gunpowder, or other warlike
stores ; the high contracting parties reciprocally engag-
ing not to permit the above-mentioned articles to be sold
or delivered in any manner whatever to the natives of the
country.

Art. X. — Every British or Russian vessel navigating
the Pacific Ocean, which may be compelled, by storms or
by accident, to take shelter in the ports of the respective
parties, shall be at liberty to refit therein, to provide
itself with all necessary stores, and to put to sea again
without paying any other than port and lighthouse dues,
which shall be the same as those paid by national vessels.
In case, however, the master of such vessel should be
under the necessity of disposing of a part of his mer-
chandise, in order to defray his expenses, he shall con-
form himself to the regulations and tariffs of the place
where he may have landed.

Art. XI. — In every case of complaint on account of
an infraction of the articles of the present convention,
the civil and military authorities of the high contracting
parties, without previously acting or taking any forcible
measures, shall make an exact and circumstantial report
of the matter to their respective courts, who engage to
settle the same in a friendly manner, according to the
principles of justice.

MARQUESAS. 313

Art. XII. — The present convention shall be ratified,
and the ratifications shall be exchanged at London,
within the space of six weeks or sooner, if possible.

In witness whereof, the respective plenipotentiaries have
signed the same, and have affiixed thereto the seals of
their arms.

Done at St. Petersburgh the 28th day of February, in
the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and
twenty-five.

(Signed) Stratford Canning.

The Count de Nesselrode.
Pierre de Politica. (L.S.)

No. III.

MARQUESAS.

This group of islands, generally known to navigators
of the present day as the "Marquesas," was discovered
at two different periods.

In the year 1595, the expedition under the command
of Alonza Mendana de Neyva first discovered Santa
Christina, or Tahuata ; La Dominica, or Hioaoa ; San
Pedro, or Mohotani ; Santa Madalena, or Fatuiva. These
received the name of the Marquesas de Mendoza.

They were subsequently visited, and described by Cook,

814 MARQUESAS.

and the Forsters, in 1774, when Hood's Island was added
to the group.

In 1791, an American captain (Ingraham) discovered
the islands of Nuhuhiva (or Nuuhiva, abbrev.), Uahuga,
or Washington Island, and Uapou, or Adam's Island.
This second discovery of part of the same group received
the name of the Washington Islands.

In June of the same year, Marchand, a Frenchman,
also claimed the discovery of the latter portion, but the
palm has been generally awarded to Ingraham.

Lieut. Hergest, in command of the Daedalus, part of
the expedition under Captain Vancouver, visited them
in 1792, and fancying them undiscovered, named them
as follows — Nuhuhiva, Sir Henry Martin's Island ; Ua-
huga, Riou's Island ; and Uapou, Trevenon's Island.
He also added Hergest's Rocks, and the northernmost, or
Robert's Island, at that period uninhabited.

These names have been indiscriminately in use amongst
subsequent navigators, but the whole group is generally
recognised as the Mendana Archipelago, or " The Mar-
quesas."

There is every reason to believe that the whole group
was known to the earlier Paumotu navigators ; as Tupia,
the native of Ulietea, who embarked with Cook, intend-
ing to visit England, furnished the data from memory,
for many of the later discoveries, and in his north-east
group, evidently intended for the Marquesas, distinctly
afforded the names of ten, three of which agree with
the subsequent discoveries. It is probable that upon a
closer examination all could be traced, as Vaitahu is
merely the name of one of the hays of Tahuata (Santa
Christina.)

MARQUESAS. 315

From the data thus furnished, a chart was constructed
by Sir J. Banks, during Cook's first voyage, and it was
not until the year 1774, in his second, that he knew any
other names than those given by Mendafia.* It appears
strange, however, that both Cook and Forster, having
discovered the coincidence in the five islands, should not
have attempted some westerly examination in 1774.

The population of the whole group, as at present com-
puted by the resident French and English missionaries,
amounts to 15,000, In 1774, Forster computed those in-
habiting the five islands only at 100,000 ! and later au-
thorities have reduced the whole group to 40,000. I
place great reliance on the missionary statement.

Our visit confines us, of course, to the island of Nuhu-
hiva and Port Anna Maria of Hergest, but it is never-
theless incumbent on me to state all I hear, leaving it to
my readers to draw their own inferences. Much of our
information has been derived from the assistance of the
British missionary, Mr. Thompson, as well as from ques-
tions put to the native chiefs through our pilot.

I am also aware that these people have been described
by abler pens, and under greater advantages, perhaps, than
our short visit and the nature of our occupations would
seem to permit. It is nevertheless necessary to register
our remarks ; we may not see with the eyes of others —
important changes may have occurred — and, moreover,
to men of habits of investigation many new features may
present themselves. Unfortunately, the volumes of for-
mer navigators were not in our possession, to enable us

* Voie R. Forster, Obs. Phy. Geog., Nat. Hist., &c.

316 MARQUESAS.

to draw stricter comparisons ; but, on the other hand,
they could not bias our observations.

I cannot, however, exactly coincide with the summary
character given in the five lines of the Geographical
Encyclopaedia, unless indeed they are to apply to the
Polynesian Islands, or savages in general. That de-
scription comprises in five words — bold, ferocious, un-
chaste, fiendly, and bloodthirsty.

Upon none of these charges do I intend to defend
them, although circumstances afforded me, perhaps, a
better opportunity of seeing them nearer their own cha-
racters than those who have preceded me.

I have already alluded to the warlike dispositions ex-
hibited at the period of my arrival. I was, indeed, any-
thing but a welcome guest ; yet, I immediately threw
myself amongst them, and during my endeavours to stop
the disposition to battle, had an opportunity of watching
for those malignant passions in their leaders which could
justify such harsh epithets.

What was the reply of the king to my question — If
you are victorious what is your final intention? "To
remove part of the Taioa people to this valley, and place
part of mine there." This needs no comment.

On the other hand, let us look to the enemy at Taioa
Bay. What was their reply to our mission ? It was
found, indeed, that they presented a superior race, not
demoralized by the visits of whale ships, nor excited by
intoxicating liquors, kava, or priestly instigation. They
calmly awaited their threatened invasion, but without
any hatred to their enemies. Their reply was, " That
they would gladly receive the king ' Moana ' as a friend,

MARQUESAS. 317

and feast hira, but not as their chief: at the same time
they would defend their valley with vigour."

When war has once commenced, " and foe meets foe,"
who shall decide upon what is brutal or blood-thirsty ?
Look not too closely into the battle field of Europe, or of
civilized combatants. Cruelty, the inherent type of
every savage, will be exercised according to the custom
of the country, and until these people become civilized,
their nature will be savage.

I think, however, that the generality of visitors ascribe
less of the savage to this group than elsewhere ; and a
case in point, I think, will bear this out. In the case of
the captain and mate of a whaler, not many years since
cut off by the natives in Comptroller's Bay, the Teii, said
to be the most ferocious on the island, seldom communi-
cating with their neighbours, and never with foreigners,
— how did they act ? They amused themselves by excit-
ing their fears. Having made a fire sufficiently large to
bake them, a hog was substituted, which, when cooked,
they were invited to partake of. They were afterwards
ransomed. On no other island would their lives have
been saved.

Every navigator has agreed in describing the men as
well-formed, active, and powerful. Their muscles are
beautifully outlined, and the whole frame presents a
roundness, fulness, and firmness, unusual in the Pacific.
They resemble the Moors of the Morocco coast in this
respect. Their gait and carriage is particularly erect,
easy, and independent^proud, I should say ; reminding
one of the high-bred horse. So much do they feel this
superiority over visitors, that they ridicule the gait of

318 MARQUESAS.

Europeans. The expression of the eye is keen, but in-
vites, or ahnost demands, friendship : no stranger can
resist the extended hand and gaze of the better class,
without being wanting in good feeling. Once adopted as
a friend, or names exchanged, your interests are closely
watched, and carried to a higher pitch of disinterested-
ness, than can be found amongst the so much extolled
Tahitans.

There is evidently a great variety in the breed, the hue
varying from that of a tanned European to the darkest
West Indian. Their hair is long, flowing, or curly, and
generally dark. They are tattooed to the extreme, but I
do not think so delicately or beautifully as I have noticed
at Tahiti. Here it is almost in masses of bluish black,
which gives a darker hue to the appearance ; more war-
like but less ornamental. They wear nothing but the
customary maro round the loins, similar to all the Poly-
nesians. When dressed for war they are truly ridi-
culous.

The head is cumbered with a scull-cap of heavy net-
work, ornamented with the jumbo bead and mother-of-
pearl plates, and surmounted by a set of fan-plumes of
cock's feathers, which form a semicircle, of which the
extremes of the shoulders form the diameter ; around the
neck a string of heavy whale teeth,* with the points pro-
jecting forward. Above the maro on the waist a profu-
sion of tappa; in the right hand a musket, and in the left
the large Marquesan fan. How they are to fight thus
rigged is incomprehensible.

* Similar ornament worn at the Feejees.

MARQUESAS. 319

Three friends of the queen dowager, wishing to surprise
me, suddenly darted into my path, thus accoutred. It is
probable they thought to startle me, but it was too ridi-
culous to create anything beyond laughter.

They are indolent in the extreme. Their wants are
few, and supplied, in a great measure, by nature. With
the exception of the cultivation of yams, plantains, and
the bread fruit, their time is wholly devoted to ease and
enjoyment. Occasionally they fish, but to little extent.

Their canoes are very indifferent ; far inferior to those of
any other islands where trees of sufficient growth abound
for their structure.

On my first arrival I did not experience much civility
from the king, high priest, or prime minister. Their
dislike was natural. I had lowered them much, by
denying any hope of aid, in force or countenance, from
Great Britain, or any civilized nation. However, they
gradually found their rambles terminate at my tent ; and
several hogs and presents of fruit at length oozed out.
We were much disappointed, however, in general sup-
plies of this nature, as nothing but muskets would be
taken in exchange.

Possibly a stronger political feeling kept these three
from openly exhibiting their friendship. The queen dow-
ager was averse to the war ; her party opposed it, and she
was known to be my great ally. They even asserted that
she had sent the enemy powder and arms, which I had
furnished.

The female part of the creation have generally been
extolled as the finest models in the world. The first
discoverers described them as possessing regular fea-

.320 MARQUESAS.

tiires, fine hands, beautiful feet, of elegant stature ; and,
moreover, surpassing the most beautiful women of
Lima. What Lima may have exhibited in 1595 we
cannot exactly arrive at; but, at the present day, the
comparison will not bear repetition. We were not
fortunate enough to see any of these extraordinary beau-
ties.

Their features are regular, complexion good, teeth
perfect, hands neat, but feet far froui elegant. Indeed,
the term elegant, as applied to woman, does not belong
to any condition out of the sphere of civilization. In
stature they vary considerably ; from the sylph-like Spa-
niard to the substantial English bouncer. Of the latter
order was the king's sister — who was well able to take
her own part. Undoubtedly they are the finest of the
sex we have met in Polynesia, The peculiar brilli-
ancy of the eyes and teeth, added to a soft languor
of expression, which is seldom witnessed in polished
society, has, I fear, bewildered the senses of their
first visitants. They evidently witnessed more than
we did. None of the extraordinary advances or impro-
prieties charged against them were displayed. They are
also charged with want of affection or attachment. Of
course we are not in a condition to negative this charge ;
but I should, from personal observation, suspect this to
be unfounded. In the instance of the queen dowager, she
pretended, at all events, to doat on the memory of Com-
luodore Porter ; displayed his presents and picture with
a tear in her eye, and repeatedly inquired if I knew him.
She is now rather old. At all events, grateful recollec-
tion remains.

MARQUESAS, 321

In another case, where I had to investigate a serious
quarrel between two English residents, the case evidently
hinged upon conjugal affection. I have also remarked
very great attachment towards each other. Other strong
cases were related by the pilot. On the other hand, I
think it not a little remarkable that, looking on either
hand at Tahiti, Sandwich Islands, or the Navigators, we
notice marriages contracted with native women ; if the
females, then, of the Marquesas bear such characters for
beauty, surely it is strange that we do not observe them
transplanted to some of those islands, or to the American
continent.

Their dress is very simple. A few folds of native cloth
round the waist form a petticoat ; and a kind of shawl
of similar material, gracefully passed obliquely across
the body, completes their costume. They are particu-
larly fond of bathing ; and in this respect exhibited a
proof of modesty, by selecting unfrequented spots. There
are always exceptions.

One great peculiarity the females enjoy at these islands
is, their freedom from danger in war. They are consi-
dered as flags of truce, particularly chief women; and can
pass from side to side at pleasure.

They are not subject to the exemption of eating with
the males, as formerly in Tahiti and the Sandwich
Islands.

With respect to their religious amelioration, I much
fear that the day is yet distant when they will be brought
into comparison with Tahiti. There is no power to lead,
no king to command ; and they are too impatient of
resrtaint to listen to the missionaries.

VOL. II. Y

322 MARQUESAS.

Another strong reason against any iniportant change,
is their original loose worship of images. Had they been
accustomed to place faith in the heathen worship, as in
other islands, their minds might have been directed to
a more powerful source to which they should address their
prayers.

323

No. IV.— K U I K A H I.

Articles made and agreed on
at Honolulu, Island of Oaliu,
this 16th day of Nov. 1836.

Art. 1st. English subjects
shall be permitted to come
with their vessels and property
of whatever kind to the Sand-
wich Islands ; they shall also
be permitted to reside therein
as long as they conform to
the laws of these Islands, and
to build houses and warehouse
for their merchandize with the
consent of the King, and good
friendship shall continue be-
tween the subjects of both
countries. Great Britain and
the Sandwich Islands.

Art. 2nd. English subjects
resident at the Sandwich Is-
lands are at liberty to go to
their own country or elsewhere,
either in their own or any other
vessel, they may dispose of
their effects, enclosures, houses,
&c., with the previous know-
ledge of the King, and take
the value with them without
any impediment whatever. The
land on which houses are built
is the property of the King,

He mau olelo keia i hoopon-
oponoia'i a i hoopaaia'i ma
Honolulu ma ka Moku Oahu
i ka la umikumamaono o No-
vemaba, 1836.

Pauku 1. E aeia mai ko
Enelani mau kanaka e hele mai
i ko Hawaii pae aiua me ko
lakou mau moku a me ko lakou
waiwai, o kela waiwai o keia
waiwai ; e aeia mai hoi lakou e
noho ilaila, i like no ka loihi
o ka manawa e noho pono ai
malalo o ke kanawai, a e kuku-
lu hale e noho ai a me na
hale 6 malu ai ko lakou wai-
wai, ke ae mai ke alii ; a e
mau ke kuikahi maikai ma-
waena o na aina o Beritania
Nui laua me na aina o Hawaii
nei.

Pauku 2. He mea pono i
na kanaka o Enelani e noho
ana ma Hawaii nei e hele i ko
lakou aina, a i na wahi e ae
iluna o ko lakou mau moku a
iluna 0 na moku e ae paha ; e
hiki ia lakou ke kuai lilo aku
i ko lakou waiwai, na pahale,
na hale a me ia mea ae ia mea
ae, ke lohe e ke alii, a e lawe
pu me lakou i ka dala o ia
mau mea, aole mea iki e kea-
kea ai. Aka o ka lepo malalo

324

KUIKAHI.

but the King shall have no au-
thority to destroy the houses,
or in any way injure the pro-
perty of any British subject.

Art. 3rd. When an Eng-
lish subject dies on the Sand-
wich Islands, his effects shall
not be searched or touched by
any of the Governors or Chiefs,
but shall be delivered into the
hands of his executors, or
heirs if present, but if no heir
or executor appear, the Consul
or his agent shall be executor
of the same : if any debts were
owing to the deceased, the Go-
vernor of the place shall assist
and do all in his power to com-
pel the debtors to pay their
debts to the heir or executor,
or the Consul, in case no heir
or executor appears, and the
Consul is to inform the King
of the death of every British
subject lea\'ing property upon
the Sandwich Islands.

Kamehameha III.
Ed. IlussELL, Captain
of II. B. Majesty's
ship, Acteon.

iho i kukuluia'i na hale no ke
alii ia, aole nae e hiki i ke
alii ke wawahi i na hale a e
hana hewa iki i ka waiwai a ke-
kahi kanaka o Beritania.

Pauku 3. a i make kekahi
kanaka o Enelani ma ko Ha-
waii pae aina, aole e huliia
kona mau waiwai, aole hoi e
hoopaia e kekahi o na Kiaaina
a me na'lii, aka e haawiia i ka
lima o na mea ana i kauoha
ai a i kona mau hooiUna paha,
iua paha lakou maanei, a i
ole ikea ka hooilina a o ka mea
i kauohaia ai paha, alalia e
lilo ke Konakele a o kona hope
paha i mea nana e hoopono-
pona ma ia mea ; a ina he mau
aie ka kekahi i ka mea i make
aku la, e kokua ke Kiaaina o ia
wahi, a e koi aku,ke hiki ia ia, i
na mea aie e hookaa i ka lakou
mau aie i ka Hooilina a i ka
mea i kauohaia'i paha, a i ole
ikea ka Hooilina a o ka mea i
kauohaia'i paha, alalia e ukuia'i
i ke Konakele. A na ke Kona-
kele e hai aku i ke ahi i ka
make ana o na kanaka Beri-
tania a pan, nona na waiwai e
waiho ana ma keia pae aina.
Kamehameha III.
Ed. Russell.

THE EEGIONS OF VEGETATION

AN ANALYSIS OF THE DISTRTBUTTON OF VEGETABLE FOEMS
OVER THE SURFACE OF THE GLOBE

IN CONNEXION WITH

CLIMATE AT^D PHYSICAL AGENTS.

RICHARD BRINSLEY HINDS, Esq.

SURGON, R. N,
ATTACHED TO THE EXPEDITION.

Y 2

ADVERTISEMENT.

Her Majesty's ship Sulphur was the school in which I
more particularly studied geographic botany. Precon-
ceived views, and results drawn from the perusal of the
writings of scientific travellers, were here practically
tested. Her extensive voyage, and rapid transition from
one portion of land to another, afforded rich and most
favourable sources of comparison. With a bias towards
the subject, it was an occupation of delight to develope
the principles of the study, and to apply them to a result.
Climate is the basis on which the earliest data must be
founded, and with the liberal use of instruments, observa-
tions on temperature and humidity were in time col-
lected. These, with observations on the physical condi-
tion of the surface, furnish us with many of the circum-
stances which govern the distribution of the flora of the
world. What I have accomplished under these heads
has been collected together, and form the subject of a
lengthened paper, which, through the liberality of the
proprietors of the Annals of Natural History, has been
already published. Naturally following the consideration
of physical agents, were the subjects of original distribu-
tion, amount, relative proportion to space, and similar de-
tails ; but which I have not yet ventured to make public.

326 ADVERTISEMENT.

The result of these investigations was the develope-
ment of regions of vegetation, and which had their origin
and stability in previously established views. At the
same time, I do not insist that these are natural, but that
taken in their entireness, they present in situations cir-
cumstances of remarkable individuality. In the mean-
time they will be found eminently useful in studying the
features of vegetation, and more particularly in leading
the subject to the naturalization of plants — the great end
and aim of geographic botany.

My views respecting these regions have been more
fully dwelt on in Sir W. J. Hooker's Journal of Botany
for June 1 842, and our space here does not permit me to
enter on these at a greater length. It is enough to add
that these regions are the results of observations ma-
tured during the voyage, and that with fourteen of them I

have been practically acquainted.

E, B. H.

CONTENTS.

AMERICA, NORTH.

I. The Greenland region
II. The North -West America region

III. The Canada region

IV. The Iroquois region

V. The Cahfomia region

VI. The Prairie region
VII. The Chihuahua region

VIII. The Central America region
IX. The Mexico Alpine region
X. The West India region

AMERICA, SOUTH

XL The Oronoco region

XII. The Andes region

XIII. The Amazon region .

XIV. The Paraguay region
XV, The Chili and Peru region

XVI. The Pampas region
XVII. The Patagonia region

AUSTRALIA.

XVIII. The Polynesia region .
XIX. The Papua or New Guinea region
XX. The Australia Tropic region

XXI. The New South Wales region

XXII. The West Australia region .

XXIII. The Van Diemen's Land region

XXIV. The New Zealand region

Page
329
331
335
337
345
348
350
351
354
356

360
362
364
368
370
372
375

379
384
386
388
392
393
395

328

CONTENTS.

AFRICA.

XXV. The South Africa region
XXVI. Tlie Mozambique region
XXVII. The Madagascar region
XXVIII. The West Africa region
XXIX. The Canary Islands region
XXX. The Barbary region
XXXI. The Nile region .

XXXII. The Asia Minor region

XXXIII. The Arabia region

XXXIV. The Tartary region

XXXV. The Siberia region

XXXVI. The Japan region
XXXVII. The China region

XXXVIII. The Birmah region
XXXIX. The Malaisia region
XL, The Hindostan region
XLI. The Himmaleh region

EUROPE.

XLII. The Spain region
XLIII. The Italy region .
XLIV. The Danube region

XLV. The Alps region .
XLVI. The Central Europe region
XLVII. The Volga region

396
401
402
403
405
409
411
414
417
418
419
422
424
430
431
433
436

439
443
445
447
450
455

XLVIII. The Ocean region

457

THE

REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

I.— THE GREENLAND REGION.

Extent. — An important portion of the northern hemi-
sphere is occupied by a vegetation entirely without trees,
and covering a dreary, bleak, inhospitable surface, hardly
capable, even in the most favoured spots, of any cultiva-
tion. Greenland composes much of this, and the region
further comprises that part of America to the north of a
line commencing at Hudson's Bay in 60° N. lat., thence
stretching to 68^^ at the Mackenzie river, and continued to
Behring's Straits ; with that part of Siberia to the north
of 65^ and Iceland, Spitzbergen, and Melville island.
The natural course of this line is with the forest, obeying
its sinuosities and sweeps, and will be found to enclose a
reoion of some peculiarities. The northern limit of course
only ceases with the vegetation.

Physical Characters. — The surface is usually extremely
rocky and rugged, destitute of soil, and maintaining its
flora in sheltered valleys and ravines. It is now a re-

330 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

ceived fact, that all those plants mutually existing in the
northern parts of Europe and America are found in this
region ; hence it seems to have been a region of trans-
mission, and to have been eminently active in supplying
the northern parts of these two portions of the globe with
many plants in common.

Climate. — There are but two seasons, summer and
winter, which succeed each other with surprising rapidity.
The latter is severe and protracted, and occupies a large
portion of the year ; summer suddenly follows on its
decline, and from the now protracted presence of the sun
much heat is accumulated. The activity of the vegetation
would appear to be in proportion to the duration and com-
pleteness of its dormant condition, and is very characte-
ristic. In Greenland, the range of the thermometer
during the year is from 84" to — 48°, or 132 degrees.

Flora. — Shrubs compose the larger vegetation ; they
are not the large bushy plants known as such in tempe-
rate and warm climates, but are of dvv^arf stature, and
appear to be struggling against the elements to attain
that state which nature has destined them to assume ;
thus some of them are only a few inches high ; still they
are numerous, and have sometimes showy flowers with
brilliant colours. Leguminosse, umbelliferse, caryophylleae,
and cruciferse, have a smaller share in the vegetation than
might be expected ; bnt ranunculaceae, saxifrageas, and
ericaceae, hold a more important station, and the propor-
tion of graminese has greatly increased. It is, how-
ever, among cellulares that the greatest change is mani-
fest, particularly in musci.

Greenland has a flora of 403 species, of which 172 are
phenogamous, and 23 1 cryptogamous. These are distributed
among 137 genera and 45 natural families. On analysis,
the phenogamous species are found to be in proportion

NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION. 331

to the genus as 2 to 1, the cryptogamus as 45 to 1 ;
taking the whole flora, the value of the genus is 2-9, of
the natural family 3 ; of the phenoganious genus 2, of
the cryptogamous 4-5 ; of the phenoganious family 2-3,
of the crytogamous 7'3. The genera have few species
compared with Iceland ; saxifraga, draba, ranunculus
stellaria, cerastium, epilobium, pedicularis, eriophorum,
juncus, carex, and salix, being the only phenogamous
genera with more than three species. There are no
trees; pyrus aucuparia reaches 61° as a small shrub, and
about a dozen species are peculiar.

Iceland, situated between 63^ and 68" N, lat., has 652
species. Of these, 359 are phenogamous, and 293 crypto-
gamous. Umbelliferse constitute 109th part, leguminosee
81st, cruciferse 40th, compositse 33rd, andgramineae 15th.
The most numerous phenogamous genera are salix, saxi-
fragea, ranunculus, gentiana, veronica, potamogeton,
plantago, epilobium, rumex, polygonum, geranium,
hieraceum, gnaphalium, orchis, carex, juncus, agrostis,
aira, poa, festuca.

Melville island, in 75° N. lat., has 116 species distri-
buted between 22 families ; or of phenogamous plants
67, and of cryptogamous 49. A few of the species are
not found elsewhere, and it may have a genus of its own,
at present an unsettled point.

Relations.— The most interesting are with the three
upper regions of alpine vegetation, where many of its
characteristic features reappear.

II.— THE NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION.

Extent. — The rocky mountains and Pacific Ocean on
the east and west, and 68'^ N. lat., and the Columbia river
to the north and south, enclose this region.

332 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

Physical Characters. — The surface is irregular, consist-
ing entirely of mountain and valley, without the least pre-
tensions to plain ; the former composed chiefly of primi-
tive rocks, among which granite is abundant, quartz is
sometimes seen, and rarely, I believe, limestone. The
soil is often rich, from the great accumulation and rapid
decomposition of vegetable remains.

Climate. — Being freely exposed to winds from the
ocean, and westerly winds jirevailing, the climate is con-
siderably modified. Compared with Europe, it is far
cooler for the latitude, and with the opposite coast with-
out those extremes so common there. It is, however,
much more moist than either, and the rainy days are
very frequent. In 56° N. lat., the mean temperature has
been ascertained to be 45°5, and the range of the year
from 203 to 8P9. Only thirty-seven really clear and
fine days were experienced, on forty-six snow fell, and on
the rest more or less rain. This was at Sitka, or New
Archangel. At the Columbia river in 46° N. lat., being
the southern limit, and with an interval from the above
of ten degrees, the mean-temperature is 54°, the annual
range from 18° to 92°, number of rainy days 167, the
quantity of rain 53"6 inches, and snow is rarely seen.

Flora. — Though the inequalities of the surface are
great, soil is abundant, and the investing vegetation vigo-
rous. The constant moisture favours premature decay?
and thus the trees are early undermined, and falling from
their ranks in the forest, cover the ground in vast num-
bers. It is not easy to conceive how thickly the surface
is crowded with these, unless by recalling something like
the vast accumulations of the coal measures. Within
the tropics I have never seen anything equal to the scene
of devastation the northern part of this region presents;
trunks of trees, of great length and clear of branches,

NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION. 333

are seen on all sides strewed in tiers, and covered with a
dense agamic vegetation. It would often seem that they
were unable to attain a good old age, as, always exposed
to moisture from the repeated rains, they have yielded to
its influence immediately that period of life arrived when
the activity of vegetation diminishes. Here everything
is moist, the soil is completely saturated, mosses and
lichens are in their liveliest vigour, and much of the
surface is swampy.

Tracing the regions from Prince William's Sound in
6^ north latitude to the east, and then to the south, the
whole will be found to be covered with one vast forest.
It extends to the north as far as the boundary line, and
to the south, through several degrees of latitude, to the
Columbia river, where a sudden change occurs, and
which is a very decided line of demarkation between
this and the California region. Returning for a moment
to Prince William's Sound, a tongue of land stretches
from it to Oonalaska and the other islands of the Aleutian
chain, over which there is no forest, and the only ap-
proach to trees is a few stunted spruces in the sheltered
valleys. But the vegetation is very luxuriant, and to-
wards the close of summer the roses, willows, and lupins
form a dense mass not easy to penetrate. At this time,
on the sides of the lower mountains, sustaining towards
their summits irregular patches of snow, there is a rich-
ness and quiet beauty about the flora particularly attrac-
tive, for many of the flowers are showy, and their colours
clear and brilliant. Here especially are mimulus luteus,
geranium eriostemon, lupinus nootkatensis, making the
surface quite blue with its flowers, epilobium latifolium,
polemonium humile, and some ferns and grasses, many
of the latter of which are in common with Europe.
Elsewhere the forest, though dense, consists of but few

334 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

species ; abies has three, which, with cupressus thyoides,
constitute all the larger trees, whilst some smaller are
contributed by Crataegus, salix, cerasus, betula, and to the
south diospyros.

The undergrowth of shrubs is so extremely luxuriant,
that it appears a chief characteristic, and, regardless of
the shade of the forest, flourishes in great vigour.
These shrubs are chiefly the species of vaccinium, nien-
ziesia, rubus, and ribes, which, though numerous in spe-
cies, have a multitude of individuals. Towards the south,
lonicera involucrata, mahonia glumacea, symphoria
racemosa, gautheria shallon are superadded, and par-
ticularly aspidium munitum, a handsome fern, very
social, and covering portions of the surface to the ex-
clusion of others. Another peculiarity is, that though
some of the genera appear through several degrees of
latitude, they are continued by new species ; thus ribes,
rubus, rosa, and lupinus, are seen everywhere in the re-
gion, yet each species had but a small range, and is im-
mediately succeeded by another.

Relations. — Two plants are common which are emi-
nently distinguished for their large foliage, and as
members of families of a warmer climate ; panax hor-
ridum, a fine shrub with large showy leaves, upwards of
a foot in length, has a range of growth from 45'' to 6P
north latitude ; and dracontium camtschaticum, with a
very different habit, spreading its broad leaves over the
surface, on the under side of which is usually a small
hairy helix, abounds in moist situations from 61° north
latitude to the Columbia River, or 46''19'. Mimulus
guttatus has a wide habitat, extending from 59° 30' north
latitude to 37° in California. The herbaceous plants
are of families common to these latitudes, though both
cruciferse and umbelliferae are scarce, and the genera are

THE CANADA REGION. 335

similar to the European with few exceptions. The
southern part mixes but feebly with the California region,
and the features are preserved singularly intact even to
the banks of the Columbia. Here quercus commences
with many others, abies ceases suddenly, and pinus
partly supplies its place, nor disappearing from the
elevated lands till it arrives in the vicinity of Panama.
A collection of plants from its northern part contained
about one half common with the north of Europe, and
a similar number with Siberia.

III.-THE CANADA REGION.

Extent. — To the west the Rocky Mountains, and
to the east the Atlantic Ocean; in the south a line
commencing on the coast in 44° north latitude, thence
to the margin of Lake Erie and to the Mississippi, then
taking a north, and afterwards a north-west direction
by the north branch of the Saskatchawan river' to the
Rocky Mountains. Its northern outline is irregular,
being determined by the forest; towards Hudson's Bay
it crosses the country in 60'' north latitude ; but attains
a higher latitude to the west, till it reaches 68°, near the
Mackenzie River.

Physical Characters. — Much of this surface is covered
with forest. There are no important mountain chains,
though smaller ranges separate several large plains. These
have generally a fruitful alluvial soil, but wild rocky
districts are not uncommon, too dreary and inhospitable
to support a vigorous vegetation. The primary moun-
tains of the Iroquois region pass its southern boundary,
and separate some plains in the vicinity of the lakes
and the St. Lawrence, the luxuriant fertility of which.

336 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

according to Murray, is almost unsurpassed, and whose
characteristics are limestone rocks, waters highly charged
with calcareous matter, and copious deposits of gypsum
and marl. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the is-
lands, form an important portion of the region. Here
granite, clay-stone, sandstone, and limestone, constitute
the basis on which the soil reposes. In Prince Edward's
Island the soil is fertile, and though occasional masses of
granite occur, scarcely a stone or pebble is to be seen ;
sandstone is the basis of the island, and clay abounds.
In Newfoundland the surface is more rocky, secondary
formations prevail, with coal and various sandstones.
Of Labrador little more is known than that it is covered
with a vast forest, and is unusually inclement for the
latitude.

Climate. — This varies considerably, but is every-
where severe for the latitude. Like the United States
the extremes of temperature are intense, and with the
anomaly that the seasons of Lower Canada run into
greater extremes than Upper Canada, or that the range
is greater near the sea than inland. Summer and
winter succeed each other so rapidly, that spring and
autumn are not distinguishable. About the close of
October, sharp frosts commence, heavy falls of sleet and
snow occur in November, and this state of the weather
prevails till the middle or end of December, when it
rapidly yields to a clear sky and a frosty atmosphere, which
continue till nearly the end of March. A rapid change
now takes place ; a fervid sun bursts forth, which melt-
ing the snows and unlocking the frozen streams, vegeta-
tion appears with magic haste, and every spot is beau-
tiful and green with verdure. From May to September
inclusive, a warm and oppressive summer prevails.

Flora. — Unlike the neighbouring Iroquois region, the

THE IROQUOIS REGION. 337

forest oiFers little variety in its trees, these being chiefly
spruces, as abies alba, a. nigra, a. canadensis, with
occasionally thuja occidentalis, pinus resinosa, and
larix rnicrocarpa. Mixed with these are several trees
with deciduous leaves, but the}' do not extend quite so
far north, nor so completely enter into the composition
of the forest ; quercus ambigua, betula papyracea, b.
lenta, b, excelsa, populus balsamifera, p. tremuloides,
p. grandidentata ; and with limits something more
southern, acer saccharinuni, a. rubrum, fagus ferru-
ginea, ulmus araericana. A close compact forest is
unfavourable to the humbler vegetation, and thus there
is no great variety ; and in the present instance is more
particularly characterised by shrubs of cerasus, sambucus,
viburnum, salix, rhodora, sedum, kalmia, ribes, rubus,
rosa, and amelanchier.

Relations. — Among the herbaceous plants are many
peculiar species, but almost always of genera widely
diffused over other parts of the continent or of Europe.
About half-a-dozen genera only seem peculiar. Wher-
ever, during a portion of the year, the climate possesses
considerable warmth, there will generally be found re-
presentatives of forms belonging more abundantly to
warmer latitudes ; here, accordingly, are met with two
species of panax, two of aralia, and dracaena borealis.

IV.— THE IROQUOIS REGION.

Extent. — I have attempted, in the name of this region,
to connect the memory of the brave Indians with the
magnificent forests they once claimed as their own. The
word was applied collectively to several tribes of North
Americans, well known in their day as the Six Nations,

VOL. IT. z

338 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

and closely concerned in the early political transactions
of this country. They were the admiration of their co-
temporaries, but nothing now remains of them, unless
sufficient of their history to adorn a tale. Perhaps a
few solitary descendants may be traced out, far from the
land of their fathers, but no more. The forests them-
selves are disappearing under the thrift and industry of
their greatest enemy, the white man ; the trees that
once sheltered the Indian lodge are falling beneath
the axe of the regenerator ; and the trackless forest, so
often traversed by the skilful hunter and dauntless war-
rior, is now covered with corn-fields, canals, and rail-
roads.

The boundary of this region commences on the coast
of the Atlantic in 44^ north latitude, and proceeds, just
skirting the southern margin of Lake Erie, onward to
the Mississippi. It now continues along the edge of the
forest on its western shore, approaching it more closely
at its mouth than in its northern course ; and afterwards
crossing Florida in 27" north latitude, with the Gulf of
Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean, it incloses an irregular
parallelogram of about 690,000 square miles.

Physical Characters. — This surface is unequally di-
vided by the Alleghany mountains, which slope towards
the Atlantic and the Mississippi. The latter has also a gra-
dual and reo-ular ascent from the Gulf of Mexico to the
lakes of Canada, of 1,200 feet. Both of these plains
abound in a fruitful soil wherever the forest has been
removed, but superior fertility and excellence belongs
to that between the mountains and the Mississippi. The
mountain system, though attaining no great elevation,
has a length of 1,200 miles, and occupies a belt of about
one hundred, of which two-thirds are estimated to consist
of valleys. It traverses the region obliquely from north-

THE IROQUOIS REGION. 339

east to south-west, and has an average height of between
2,000 to 3,000 feet, the highest summits never exceeding
the latter. There are elsewhere some loftier elevations.
Mount Washington being 6,428 feet, and the Black
Mountain in Carolina 6,476 feet. The Alleghanies are
divided into four distinct ridges, and are chiefly composed
of primary stratified rocks. This stratification is very
generally prevalent, and one of its efiects is visible in
the numerous cascades, falls, and rapids of the rivers.
Gneiss, granite, sienite, and hornblende are frequent in
the northern parts, and are equally the basis of the
plains as of the mountains. Towards the south the
granitic rocks in a great measure disappear, and are
supplanted by an extensive limestone formation. Much
of the surface of the plain between the mountains and
the Atlantic is covered by sand, which in many instances
is far more productive than might be imagined, from, it
is supposed, a submersion to which it was formerly
exposed. There are likewise extensive patches of marsh
or moist meadow land, and nearer the sea occasionally
inundated districts.

Climate. — With so wide an extent of latitude, there
will be much difference in the climate. Generally it
may be called a climate of extremes, particularly in the
northern part, where this feature is experienced in
greatest force. The vicissitudes are great, and accom-
plished with much rapidity; the extreme of heat and
cold even in a single day is immense, and it has been
known to be 4P ; 28° is mentioned as common. After
the hottest days, the nights may be piercingly cold. An
American writer has summed up a detail of his climate
by observing, that in spring it has the moisture of Britain,
in summer the fervid heats of Africa, in June the bland
warmth of Italy, in winter the snows of Norway and

z 2

340 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

the ice of Holland, the tempestuous winds of the West
Indies, and in all seasons the variable weather of Great
Britain. Such a combination is not likely to be favour-
able to the human race, but under it the vegetation is
ndoubtedly varied and luxuriant. Plants love a warm
atmosphere, especially if combined with brilliancy of the
sun's rays; and a succeeding cold season, instead of
proving hurtful, seems rather to prepare them to expand
in the coming summer with unusual vigour.

Flora. — A vast impervious forest once covered the
whole eastern part of North America. Towards the
north it commenced around the shores of Hudson's Bay,
reaching as far as 60° ; and stretched towards the south
in one broad mass, bounded on one side by the Atlantic
Ocean, and on the other by the Mississippi, the father of
rivers. It did not quite confine itself to the east side, but
crossing the river, continued down its west bank in a belt
of fifty or a hundred miles broad. The only interrup-
tions throughout its extent v»ere occasioned by two in-
roads of prairie, mentioned under that region. To the
south it received no check till it arrived on the maro-ius
of the Mexican Sea. A portion of this forest comprises
the present region. Beyond the northern boundary of
the latter the forest consists of but few species, but to its
south a new state of things prevails ; for many new and
extensive genera now contribute their species, and bestow
an unrivalled variety. One hundred and fifty distinct
kinds of trees are known, of which eighty attain an height
upwards of sixty feet. Of these the most peculiar to the
region are the various carya, nyssa, liriodendron, taxo-
dium, robinia, and gymnocladus. A small part only of
this forest has been removed ; but where this has haj)-
pened a material change has been produced in the
vegetation. Its original herbiiceous plants, which re-

THE IROQUOIS REGION. 341

quired shelter and protection, have disappeared from the
clearings, and were replaced by strangers. But if the
forest again resumes possession of the soil the old inha-
bitants return, to the exclusion of the intruders. The
numerous species furnishing these trees are, with few
exceptions, peculiar, and, including those just mentioned,
belong to the following genera, many of them having
several species : — Quercus, ulmus, pinus, juglans, dios-
pyros, cupressus, acer, neguudo, laurus, celtis, gleditschia,
virgilia, magnolia, tilia, maclura, oesculus, pavia, corylus,
fraxinus, ostrya, juniperus, morus, rhus, rosa, euonymus,
rhamnus, harailtonia, hydrangea, prinos, clethra, kal-
mia, cratoegus, comptonia, myrica, sorbus, halesia, ber-
beris, olea, philadelphus, malus, cerasus, gordonia ; but
many of the latter are only shrubs.

Among herbaceous plants the most characteristic are,
in Labiates, collinsonia, salvia, gardoquia, calamintha,
hyptis, ceranthera, macbridea, monarda, cunila, Scutel-
laria, hyssopus ; ScrophularinecB, seymeria, gerardia, ma-
cranthera, herpestis, gratiola, pentstemon, orobanche,
antirrhinum, mimulus ; Eu-pliorhiacece, croton, euphorbia,
phyllanthus, jatropha, tragia ; Ranunculacece, clematis,
thalictrum, delphinium, ranunculus ; Compositce, — these
are extremely numerous and varied ; aster and solidao-o
on which Schouw has erected a region, but they are as-
sembled with so many others that it is giving them an
undue importance ; liatris, a characteristic group, helian-
themum, coreopsis, rudbeckia, eupatorium, prenanthes,
apogon, krigia, borkhausia, stokesia, vernonia, cacalia,
hymenopappus, erigeron, arnica, verbesina, chaptalia,
galardia, baldwinia, elephantopus, senecio, lactuca, cni-
cus, hieraceum; LeguminoscB, desmodium, lespedeza, in-
digofera, stylosanthes, baptisia, astragalus, tephrosia,
lupinus, two species with simple leaves ; trifolium is not

342 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

common ; Stellatce, houstonia, galium, rubia ; Polemo-
niacecB, phlox, polemonium ; Papaveracece, sanguinaria,
meconopsis ; Apocynece, amsonia, anantherix, polyotus,
asclepias, stylandra, apocynum ; Umhelliferce, eryngium,
hydrocotyle, leptocaulis, daucus, tiedraannia ; Cruciferce
are scarce, but hesperis prevails ; Thymelece has only one
representative ; among Orchidacece are habenaria, coral-
lorhiza, orchis, triphora, malaxis, cypripedium, cranachis,
bletia, spiranthes, epidendrum ; and of other endogenae
iris, phalangiiim, yucca, agave, canna, tradescantia, com-
melina, amaryllis, crinum, pancratium. To complete this
sketch must be added, podophyllum, diclytra, claytonia,
erythronium, mikania, smilax, vitis, poly gala, hyperi-
cum, lobelia, senothera, silene, arum, nymphsea, nuphar,
vallisneria, villarsia, sagittaria, zizania, sarracenia, dio-
nsea, drosera, oxalis, solanum, rhexia, several species, jus-
sisea, mitreola, spilegia, gentiana and sabbatia, various
beautiful kinds, eriogonum, pleea-like dionaea with a
limited habitat, warea, tiaridium, and numerous ferns.

A strong tendency exists in the southern portions to
display tropical characters, as is evident from some of the
endogense already mentioned, and is farther confined by
tillandsia, bromelia, epiphytic orchidaceae, chamserops
palmetto, and other palms ; sapindus, passiflora, turnera,
bignonia, croton, and pontederia.

The monomic* families are very few, and are confined
to podophyllaceae, sarraceniacese, and limnanthacese ; of
genera 332 are monomic in North America, which is
certainly a large number to have so limited a range.
There are two which are singularly absent, erica and
ficus ; for the latter might be expected in the south, since
it is so plentiful in the low lands of Mexico. The forest
trees are so numerous, that was it our opinion that vege-

* Confined to one region.

THE IROQUOIS REGION. 343

tation was diffused from centres, we should almost con-
sider this as that whence the temperate regions of the
world had been supplied. Leguminosee bear among
them a great proportion for the latitude Others are
remarkable for the size and brilliancy of their flowers ;
occasionally for their glossy leaves; and the autumnal
tints of an American forest have long charmed the ima-
ginative observer. Graminese are feebly represented, and
to some extent their place is supplied by juncese and
cyperacese, which love the marshy lands.

The range of growth of some of the trees has been
carefully observed. Quercus virens, the live oak, is found
along the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico
to the Sabine river, but not more than twenty miles from
the sea, and ceases at 37° N. latitude. Quercus prinus,
the chesnut oak, abounds in the Atlantic states south of
4F; q. stellata, the post oak, in Maryland, Virginia, and
the upper parts of Georgia and the Carolinas, preferring
a dry gravelly soil ; q. montana, the rock chesnut oak,
valuable in ship-building, grows in stony soils on the
Hudson, Lake Champlain, and in the Alleghanies of
Pennsylvania and Virginia. Juglans nigra is common in
a deep and fertile soil south of 43o. Acer saccharinum'
the sugar maple, ranges chiefly from 43° to 46°, but is
common in some parts of Pennsylvania and Genessee.
Besides sugar, it yields potash abundantly, good charcoal,
and a valuable wood. A. nigrum, the black sugar maple,
is found farther south, and chiefly abounds in the vicinity
of the rivers of the west. It yields sugar freely, but is
less generally useful than the former. Betula papyracea,
the canoe birch, is a northern tree, not descending be-
yond 43". B. lenta occurs from 40° to 48'', and farther
south on the summits of the Alleghanies. B. nigra, on
the banks of the rivers, from 41" to Georgia. Laurus

344 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

carolinieiisis, the red bay, iu swamps to the south of 37".
Diospyros virginiana is common in the United States
south of 41°. Asimina triloba, the papaw, but not to be
confounded with carica papaya, ceases at 40°. Populus
angulata grows only to the south of 39°. Chamserops
palmetto stretches along the coast of the Atlantic to 35°.
This palm grows to forty or fifty feet high, and has some
useful qualities. The wood is in request for wharfs and
other submersed buildings, as it is not attacked by
worms; it also will not splinter when struck by cannon-
balls. Cornus florida only grows south of 43°. Nyssa
villosa, the sour gum, south of 41°. N. biflora, the black
gum, to 43°, and always in moist situations. Fraxinus
acuminata abounds to the north of 41°, and its wood is so
valuable for strength and elasticity, that it is exported.
Ulmus americana thrives best from 42° to 46°, but is
found generally. Its wood is inferior to the European.
Pinus resinosa, the red pine, is not seen south of 43°.
P. palustris, a valuable tree for its wood, its copious resin,
and as occupying a very arid soil, commences at Norfolk,
in 37°, and stretches along the coast for 600 miles, and
with a breadth of 100. P. ta^da, the loblolly pine,
exclusively to the south of 38°. P. strobus chiefly be-
tween 43° and 47° ; and the tallest kinds are used for the
masts of vessels. Abies canadensis, the hemlock spruce,
has the same range as the last. A. nigra, chiefly from
44° to 53°. Its wood is preferred for spars, and spruce
beer is made from its branches. A. alba has a similar
range. Thuja occidentalis, lignum vitse, or white cedar,
grows with the spruces. Taxodium distichum, the bald
cypress, is peculiar to swamps south of 38°. Juniperus
virginiana, tlie red cedar, prevails south of 44° in dry
exposed situations.*

* For much of these details I am imlebled to the interesting sketeli of the

THE CALIFORNIA REGION. 345

Relations. — This region is so rich in variety that very
extensive relations might be expected, but though these
are certainly numerous, the peculiarity of its flora is very
striking. With Europe it might be supposed to have
many species in common; yet of 2,891 phanerogamic,
only 385 re-appear there. The proportionate scarcity of
urabelliferse, cruciferse, and trifoiium, is somewhat re-
markable ; and in examining the vegetation we cannot
fail to be impressed how closely the productions of cold
and hot regions are broughttogether,and consequently how
much the intermediate temperate portion is compressed.
This appears to be the reason why the groups just men-
tioned are so little seen. With the China region there are
some interesting points of resemblance, through hydran-
gea, cocculus, and others; with South Africa in araaryl-
iideae, India in scitaminese; and with the Patagonia
aiid California regions through berberis, and many other
genera with the latter. Clusia rosea is met with in
Carolina, and several cinchonace8e prevail through the
region to the vicinity of the lakes.

v.— THE CALIFORNIA REGION.

Extent. — After crossing the Columbia river from the
north, an entirely altered vegetation commences. The
dense compact forests of abies cease suddenly, and are sup-
planted by an open country, spotted by occasional clump
of oaks, and the river lines fringed by platanus, fraxi-
nus, juglans, and salix. The outline of the region may

botany of tlie United States, as in the American edition of Murray's Encj -
clopsedia of Geography.

34G THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

be traced up the Columbia river to the Rocky Mountains,
which it meets in about 50° N. latitude, and is continued
along them to the south, till approaching the com-
mencing waters of the Colorado, it runs along its course
to the gulf of California. The remaining portion is cir-
cumscribed by the Pacific Ocean.

Physical Characters. — In its northern part the sur-
face is regular, and there are some well-watered fine allu-
vial plains, without a rock or stone. Occasionally ranges
of low mountains traverse it, chiefly of porphyry, basalt,
and jasper, which are not of sufficient elevation to afiect
materially the vegetation, but support some groves of
pin us lambertiana and abies religiosa ; pinus rigida
prefers the plains. The broad plains which separate them
are often overflowed in the winter, which with their
deep rich soil renders them very fertile. To the south,
the scenery is wild and rugged, nearly altogether moun-
tainous, the ranges running from north to south. Not
a tree is to be seen, but there is a moderate sprinkling of
a more lowly and interesting vegetation. The prevailing
rocks here are serpentine, gneiss, basalt, and greenstone.
There is no soil nor fertilizing streams, water being very
scarce.

Climate. — To the north the climate is even and tem-
perate ; the winters are mild and of short duration, and
snow appears on the loftier hills ; and the summers have
an agreeable warmth, with the atmosphere clear and
transparent. In the autumn the dews are excessively
heavy. The summers of the southern portion are
warmer, the temperature being generally from 60° to 74".
The rains are soon over, but during their continuance
deluge the country. The atmosphere is particularly
clear, and it would also appear dry, as when signs of the

THE CALIFORNIA REGION. 347

wet season were gathering in the heavens, the dew-point
was 62°, the shade 72° ; and at the same time the sun's
rays were 115°.

Flora. — The finest part of this region is to the north,
where an open country prevails, varied by patches of
trees of noble growth. Of the oaks, two species are deci-
duous, and two evergreen. The latter are confined to
the neighbourhood of the sea coast between 38° and 34°
N. latitude. The other trees are not numerous, and are
chiefly comprised under platanus, acer, pavia, juglans,
cornus, laurus regia, and the aromatic tetranthera cali-
fornica. It is amono- these forest trees that the chief
relations with the Iroquois region is established, and it is
one of affinity. The undergrowth consists of several
species of rubus, ribes, lupinus, rhus, vaccinium, arbutus,
and lonicera ; and such is the variety of some of these,
that a new species may be met with ahnost every hun-
dred miles. Vitis, scarcely expected, grows abundantly
on the margins of some of the rivers. Shrubby com-
positse prevail throughout, but are in the greatest inten-
sity towards the centre of the region ; and in the more
arid parts cacteae and euphorbiacese are particularly nu-
merous, with a few leguminosse. Cacteae are not seen
further north than 34° ; here also is the limit of ricinus
communis, of course introduced, as is phcenix dacty-
lifera, a few large trees of which may be seen about
San Diego, but only yielding a sour fruit.

As characteristic peculiarities of the region may be
mentioned, its great aridity, general scarcity of trees,
superior prevalence of cacteae, compositae, and euphor-
biaceae, great number of plants with lactescent juices, and
with fragrant foliage, the frequent developement of the
flowers and leaves at different periods, and the general
small range of its sj)ecies. The negative features consist

348 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

in the scarcity of ferns, mosses, and fungi, none of which
exist in the southern part, except perhaps the latter
during the rains. Lichens, with sickly aspects, occa-
sionally cling to the trees or rocks.

Relations. — California, though less known, has an
equally fine climate with the south of Europe, Chili, the
Cape of Good Hope, or IVew South Wales ; and with
these parts of the world has a general resemblance in its
vegetation. In establishing a comparison between the
western and eastern parts of the American continent, a
superiority nmst be assigned in the forest trees to the
east, and in the herbaceous vegetation to the west.

VI. THE PHAIRIE REGION.

Extent. — This is a peculiar tract enclosed by the vast
forests of North America. It extends from within a
hundred miles of the west bank of the Mississippi to the
Rocky Mountains, stretching to 54° N. latitude, and again
only bounded on the south by the wooded country of
the Texas and the Mexican Sea. The outline is tolerably
regular, except that two processes cross the above river ;
one penetrating the states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio ;
and the other farther south, stretching into Alabama.

Physical Characters. — The prairie is far from being
a continuous extensive plain, and in this respect must
yield to the Pampas. It consists rather of an assemblage
of plains, often with slightly undulating surfaces, and
frequently covered with a fruitful soil ; their level being
occasionally broken by projecting masses of rocks or
ranges of low hills. The subjacent structure is com-
posed of red or grey saliferous sandstone, chieHy the

THE PRAIRIE REGION. 349

former, with beds of clay. Chloride of sodium abounds
with other salts, and are found largely in the vicinity of
the Rocky Mountains, and in the northern part of the
region. Gypsum likewise occurs, and gravel, sand, or
boulders occasionally prevail.

Climate. — The long droughts to which the prairie is
liable have been supposed to preclude the existence of
shrubs or trees, and to be favourable to the more fuga-
cious grasses. Heavy rains sometimes fall, and during
their continuance rivers spring up, and gliding over the
country, nourish a lively vegetation. In the dry season
these soon shrink to small streams, disconnected chains
of ponds or marshes, or entirely disappear.

Flora. — This extensive portion of country supports a
by no means insignificant flora. Graminese is the most
important group, and is represented by numerous festuca,
bromus, stipa, aristida, poa, agrostis, crypsis, kseleria,
hordeum, eriocoma, and others. Grasses flourish more
particularly in the northern part, yielding gradually
towards the south to various herbaceous compositae, some
cucurbitacese, vites, scrophularineae, solanese, boraginese,
and euphorbiacese. The peculiarities of the region are
derived chiefly from the absence of trees, the great
preponderance of gramineae and of compositse through
the genera rudbeckia, helianthus, silphium, coreopsis,
and other allied groups, and in the scarcity of bulbous
plants in a situation, where, from a comparison with the
Cape of Good Hope and other places, they might be
supposed to exist. Cacteae appear farther north in the
prairie than in the California region, and are often ac-
companied in both by a yucca.

However interesting the Rocky Mountains may prove
to the geologist, they have no flora sufficient to give them
any individuality as a region. They are as destitute of

350 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

arborescent vegetation as the prairie, and the interesting-
herbaceous plants found among them are only a portion
of this flora. If their latitude generally is considered,
they will be found incapable of possessing any important
alpine vegetation, and even around their bases the snow
will lie long and perseveringly on the ground.

Relations. — Towards the south this region becomes
gradually blended with the California and Chihuahua
regions : an analogy with the pampas is established
through the numerous graminese ; and with the northern
regions by numerous cruciferse and umbelliferse, but those
of the prairie are nearly all peculiar. The more interest-
ing relation exists with the Steppes of Tartary, with
which it has many points in common. The chief relation
is that of affinity, the same genera being represented in
both by different species ; among these are artemisia,
astragalus, thermopsis, sophora, glycyrrhiza, fritillaria,
and diotis; and rheum is replaced by the analogous
genus eriogonum.

VII.— THE CHIHUAHUA REGION.

Extent. — This name is pronounced Chi-wah-wah, and
though the designation may appear somewhat novel, on
the spot it is in extensive use ; but almost equally little is
known of the inhabitants, productions, and flora. On
account of the barrenness of information respecting the
latter, we can hardly more than indicate this region.
Though an important portion of Mexico, it differs from it
in many respects, and it is necessary to draw a strong
line of demarcation, since the very name of Mexico is
apt to convey to the mind of the botanist an association
of characters certainly not pertaining to this part of the

THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION. 351

republic. On the north it has the Prairie Region, s\yeep-
ing round it even to the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and
meeting the Central America Region, thus completely
separating it from the Atlantic. To the south, it ceases
about the limit of the tropic, and on the west it has the
Gulf of California, and the Rio Colorado.

Physical Characters. — Bold and mountainous.

Climate. — Cold for the latitude, and apparently liable
to vicissitudes.

Flora. — A thin forest occasionally covers part of the
surface ; at other times the vegetation is lowly, and there
are broad spots entirely without any. The general cha-
racter is rugged and austere, the land rising rapidly to a
moderate elevation. Hence the climate is cool for the
latitude, and the productions those of ten or fifteen de-
grees farther north. Steep precipices, and narrow passes
abound, with the customary attendants of stern mountain
scenery. Between the various ranges are fertile plains
well adapted to agriculture, and the valleys are often
very productive. Nitre and common salt are sometimes
mixed copiously with the soil, depriving it of fertility.
Compositae are numerous ; some are shrubby, but the tribe
coreopsideae more particularly prevails. Cacteae are com-
mon ; a few amaryllideae, some showy and interesting
spieces of labiatse, and perhaps also of scrophularineae
and boragineae.

Relations. — Unknown.

VIII.— THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION.

Extent. — The southern portion of the republic of
Mexico, the whole of the Federal States of Central
America, and a portion of New Granada ; it thus extends

352 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

from the north tropic to the Gulf of St. Michael in the
Bay of Panama, bat sends a tongue to meet the Prairie
Region, on the Mexican Sea. In elevation it attains
4,500 feet, or the commencement of the cultivation of
wheat ; and the lowland cultivation ceases about this,
which is inconsiderable for the latitude. Humboldt's
warm region ceases at 600 metres, or 1,968 feet, but this is
no limit to either the introduced or natural productions.

Physical Characters. — That part comprising the
Mexican States, and the Upper States of Central America,
rises rapidly from the shores of both seas to the elevated
and peculiar table-lands of this part of America. Near
both shores the soil is productive, if not abundant, but on
leaving them the surface is usually rugged, and broken
by huge masses of granite, porphyry, serpentine, or
bazalt. This part of the region is composed almost en-
tirely of these primary rocks, very few of secondary for-
mation being known to exist. More to the south, and
near the Isthmus of Panama, the country is far more
even, the continuity of the Andes being completely
broken, and in the vicinity of the lakes of Leon and
Nicaragua is so even that no perceptible inequality can be
noticed on traversing it, and the greatest difference is no-
where more than a few yards. Here the soil is rich and
abundant, very productive, and capable of yielding many
successive crops.

Climate. — The seasons are tropical, the rains com-
mencing from April to June, according to the latitude,
and lasting five months. During the rest of the year
a hot sun and clear sky prevail.

Flora. — This region belongs to that variety of tropical
vegetation where leguminosae, &c., prevail, and hence
we infer a ceitain aridity of soil and atmosphere. In
this respect it yields greatly to the Oronoco Region, and

CENTRAL AMERICA REGION: 353

though Schouw combines them in his anomalous region of
Cacteae and Piperaceae, I venture to separate them, after
some practical acquaintance with both. Everywhere a
forest exists, but it is usually a thin open forest: the trees
are not distinguished either for stature or bulk, and there
is a scarcity of undergrowth. In this latter respect there
is a very remarkable difference between it and the North-
West America Region. Nor is the variety of the forest
trees great ; hsematoxylon campechianum is common ;
swietenia mahagoni and cedrela odorata are gregarious
in the neighbourhood of the lakes, and very numerous as
individuals. Mimosese are particularly abundant on the
summits and sides of the hills, where there is any expo-
sure, and the larger kinds convey a particularly airy and
picturesque effect. Bauhinia, hymensea, and schrankia,
have several species. Ficus is also numerous, and from
the manner of growth is highly distinctive ; one species
has a strange partiality for encasing the trunk of the
chamserops palmetto, of which instances . are numerous.
Tropical endogense are not frequent, a few scitaminese,
musacese, and commelinese appearing only in the wet
season ; passiflora, piper, melastoma, and ferns, are not
common ; cactese are spread over the region, but are not
in such vigorous existence as elsewhere. Agave ameri-
cana, salvia, hyptis, asclepias, viscum, loranthus,
mikania, cordia, geraschanthus, heliotropium, tourne-
fortia, quassia, datura, and solanum, are most frequent in
the vegetation. Palrase are almost comprised in
chamserops palmetto, bactris minor, cocos nucifera, a
licuala, and a phoenix.

Relations. — The extensive existence of ficus is a
source of resemblance with the Indian forest. Cactese
are very generally diffused, though never in any intensity,
and through them a general character is maintained

VOL. IL A A

354 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

with all America, subject to a warm or even temperate
climate. It yields to the West India Region in the num-
ber, variety, and luxuriance of its vegetation, but its closest
connexion is here ; also to the South American tropical
regions ; and, considering its situation, is far from being
rich or productive. Within it, it must be remembered, is
an alpine region, and the celebrity the flora has enjoyed
is shared between them. On the west coast, in 19'^ N.
latitude, I saw a solitary tree of metrosideros glomuli-
fera, which conveys an interesting relation with New
Holland.

IX. THE MEXICO ALPINE REGION.

Extent. — The Mexican mountains, above 4,500 feet,
between 12° and 22° north latitude. This height is the
lower boundary of the cultivation of wheat, and on the
elevated plains it thrives admirably, when fed by regular
irrigation. Since latitude within the tropics has such
a trifling influence on climate, the difierence in the
alpine range of growth of vegetation on the mountains
of Mexico and the Ecuador is surprising. In the latter,
Quercus is not seen lower than 5,800 feet, but in Mexico
it commences suddenly at 2,700 feet.

Physical Characters. — The distribution of the Mexi-
can highlands is remarkable. Instead of rising gradually to
a lofty sierra or ridge, as in the Andes of South America,
the ascent suddenly ceases in a broad expanded table-
land with an elevation from 4,000 to 8,000 feet. On
this are placed many active volcanos, and it is likewise
diversified by ridges of low hills and numerous lakes,
whence mountain streams take their origin.

Climate. — The mean heat is perhaps lower than might
be expected, and in the less elevated situations thin ice is

MEXICO ALPINE REGION. 355

common in the winter. At times the power of the sun's
rays is very great.

Flora. — The character of the vegetation varies ; much
is covered by a thin forest of trees, stunted, and crooked
in their growth, and struggling among rugged volcanic
rocks; and also by large fertile plains, sustaining a
varied and abundant flora, through which run clear
streams, fringed with trees of very European aspect,
and many lively plants. Still there are places extremely
barren, and where exposure and the absence of water
have excluded all vegetation. There is, however, no
want of fertility, and the variety in the climate is fa-
vourable to a multitude of fruits and vegetables. The
tropical productions of the plains soon cease, and leave
the region in the possession of trees, shrubs, and her-
baceous plants, whose analogies are with temperate and
even cold climates. Quercus has nearly twenty species,
which grow through a great variety of elevation, and
cease only at about 10,000 feet; one authority says
10,400, and another 9,843 feet. This genus is widely
distributed through the continent ; to the north we find
it with deciduous leaves, on the east coast in 45°, and on
the west in 47° ; it soon becomes an evergreen, and as-
cending the mountain sides, does not cease till it has
crossed the equator. Recalling that many of its species
are found on the Himma-leh mountains, in Java, and
other Indian islands, its partiality for low latitudes is
very decided. Wheat ceases to be cultivated at the
same elevation, and previously rye and barley are mixed
with it. Pinus occidentalis is frequent, ranging between
6,100 and 13,000 feet, and as far south as 12° north
latitude. There is another species, I believe as yet un-
described, with long cones and longer leaves. It is found
around Tepic in the northern part of the region, com-

/ A A 2

356 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

mencing at 3,500 feet. Other trees and shrubs are sup-
plied by abies hirtella, cupressus thurifera, c. sabi-
noides, taxodium distichum, taxus montana, alnus mex-
icana, salix several species, amygdalus microphylla,
cheirostemon platanoides, mespilus pubescens, and se-
veral species of arbutus, arctostaphylos, vaccinium, rosa,
and ribes.

Relations. — With temperate Europe and America
it has many genera in common, as seuecio, cnicus, draba,
ranunculus, anemone, arenaria, stachys, pedicularis, myo-
sotis, polemonium, galium, cornus, and caprifoliura ; but
a firmer connexion with the latter is established through
lupinus, ageratum, and chelone ; yet nearly every species
is peculiar. The more peculiar genera are ' mirabilis, mau-
randya, leucophyllura, hoitzia, georgina or dahlia, zinnia,
sckhuria, ximenesia, lopezia, vauquelinia, choisya, and
cheirostemon.' It possesses, in common with other alpine
regions, the negative character of having no peculiar
natural family, and comparatively few genera ; its indi-
viduality depends on species. Through quercus and
pinus, and some of the herbaceous genera, it is con-
nected more closely with the Himma-leh than with the
Andes region.

X.— THE WEST INDIA REGION.

Extent. — The West India Islands, the Bahamas, and
the extremity of Florida, south of 27° north latitude, com-
pose this region, which, with the exception of the latter,
is the same as Schouw's. It possesses all the vigour and
luxuriance of an island climate within the tropics, where
moisture is ever ready in the atmosphere to feed vege-
tation ; and the elevation of the surface, which in Cuba

WEST INDIA REGION. 857

attains nearly 9,000 feet, is also sufficient to produce a
variety in the productions. The whole is situated be-
tween 10° and 27° north latitude.

Physical Characters. — These islands vary much in
their character and geological formation. They admit
of a twofold division ; the volcanic rising to elevated
summits, covered with forest, abundantly supplied with
streams of water, and very fertile, as St. Vincent, St.
Lucie, Martinique, Dominica, and Guadaloupe ; the
others, principally composed of limestone, are low, less
watered, by no means so productive, and sometimes even
sterile, such as Barbadoes, Tobago, Antigua, and Bar-
buda. Cuba, the most extensive island, is chiefly
covered with forest, and has a superficies of 54,000 square
miles. A chain of mountains traverses it from east to
west, which rises into several peaks, and sends many
streams to the plains below. The mountain chain is
composed of granite, syenite, gneiss, and mica slate, and
the lower lands of secondary formations, and they are
eminently fertile and productive. Jamaica has a super-
ficies of 4,256 square miles, and the Blue Mountains,
whose greatest elevation is 7,278 feet, make an agreeablo
variety in the climate, and a healthy retreat for the invalid.
These are chiefly composed of transition rocks, with, nearer
the coast, red sandstone, marl, and limestone reposing on
them. Some parts are alluvial, and generally well
watered and fruitful. St. Domingo has an area of
28,000 square miles, and the central mountain peaks are
lofty, La Serrania attaining 9,000 feet, and La Sella, 7,000
feet. Their flanks support noble forests, and are traced
by numerous fertilizing streams. Puerto Eico contains
240 square miles, and is equally fertile with the rest.
Its highest part is about 4,000 feet, and it has several
fertile valleys and plains. The Bahamas comprise a

358 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

numerous group, composed of sandstone ; and though the
soil is generally dry and rocky, they yield some good
timber.

Climate. — The temperature is usually equable, but
must be called warm ; the range is therefore inconsider-
able, and the mean at different places will vary from 73°
to 8 P. It is only on the accession of a north wind, that
much deviation occurs, and then even ice is stated to be
produced, but those islands most to windward are the
greatest sufferers.

Flora. — Originally nearly the whole of this region
was covered with forest ; a few exceptions might only be
found where tropical grasses occupied the surface. Now
cultivation has removed an important portion, but ex-
tensive woods still exist. Swietenia mahagoni abounds
in several islands, as does also guaicum officinale, with
various species of myrtus, uvaria, laurus, and melastoma.
The sameness these might otherwise produce is broken
by several palmse, and especially by the arborescent ferns,
whose peculiar beauty is highly characteristic of the
scenery. Ferns are generally very abundant, and assume
a tropical variety of stature and habit. The most pre-
valent and characteristic are asplenium arboreum,
cyathsea arborea, c. speciosa, c. muricata, with numer-
ous species of polypodium, pteris, aspidium, gymno-
gramma, acrostichum, and adiantum. A multitude of
twining plants festoon the vegetation, lashing it into an
impervious mass, belonging to convolvulucese, passi-
floreae, some leguminosae, assisted by interesting kinds
of paullinia and aristolochia. Orchidacese are very
abundant, particularly the extensive genus epidendrum,
and species of oncidium, bletia, catasetum, and spiran-
thes are also numerous.

The claims of Florida south of 27*^ north latitude to

WEST INDIA REGION. 359

be considered a part of this region, are established through
tillandsia, sapindus, indigofera, chrysobalanus, rhexia,
croton, jatropha, and several others.

Relations. — The position of this region between the
large continents of America insures an intimate relation
with them, modified by its insular situation. This is,
however, stronger with South than North America, per-
haps arising from the moister atmosphere common to
both, for there are no other circumstances which are not
equally shared by the Central America region. With
the South American regions it is strongly related by
similar genera of palmae, passifloreae, orchidacese, plum-
baginese, cordiaceae, and arborescent and herbaceous
ferns. With the central America region the connexion
is through ficus, a few orchidaceae, asplenium arboreum,
swietenia mahagoni, pinus occidentalis, and some
others, particularly those of the sandy shores, as hippo-
mane mancinella. There is a singular absence of quercus
in the higher lands, considering how very numerous the
species are in the Mexico alpine region within the same
latitude. It has all the luxuriance of other insular re-
gions within the tropics, and is unsurpassed by them in
the variety of its ferns and orchidacese, as none others
have a similar number for a given space. In the latter,
the Pacific islands are much poorer, perhaps from the
absence of the dense forest they appear to love. Wyd-
leria portoriccensis and lepidium virginicum, two cruci-
ferous plants, are found on the island, indicated by
the specific name of the former.

360 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

XL— THE ORONOCO REGION

Extent. — That vast portion of South America, stretch-
ing from the Cordillera of the Andes to the Atlantic, and
from the Carribean Sea to the Rio Plata, presents several
divisions characterised by certain physical features.
From the elevated lands of the interior of the continent
three sets of rivers take their origin, and after tra-
versing huge basins, are at length emptied into the
ocean in three directions, to the north, the east, and
the south. The vegetable productions of the divisions
have also their peculiarities, which are sufficiently dis-
tinct to authorise a separation ; and assuming a designa-
tion from the principal river of each, we have the Oronoco
Region, the Amazon Region, and the Paraguay Region,
the boundaries of which are conveniently traced along
the ridges of those secondary mountains, at the bases of
which their tributaries have their origin.

The Oronoco Region occupies the northern part of
South America, and a line running along the sierra of
Araray, and traversing the continent to the Bay of
Guayaquil, forms its southern limit ; whilst to the north
it ceases at the Gulf of St. Michael, and is elsewhere
inclosed by the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

Physical Characters. — Some lesser ranges of moun-
tains traverse the region, with their sides broken into
steep and confined valleys. From their bases extend
vast plains or llanos, covered either with forest or
luxuriant grasses. These extensive llanos are repre-
sented in Brazil by the campos, and around Buenos
Ayres by the pampas, but are here in their greatest
richness. The rivers often inundate their banks, fer-
tilizing a soil already extremely rich, and for a time

THE ORONOCO REGION. 361

converting large districts into savannali. A very sandy
soil prevails in some places, as in the neighbourhood of
Cumana, supporting chiefly multitudes of gigantic cacteae.
Humboldt has observed that the vegetation here ap-
peared more luxuriant wherever the limestone was
covered by quartzy sandstone, the latter appearing fa-
vourable to the retention of moisture.

Climate. — Situated so near the equator, the climate
is a warm one. Caraccas has an annual mean of from
70" to 72'', which, however, is far too low for the region
perhaps as much as 8°. The range is stated to be from
5P to 85°, being considerable for the latitude. The
humidity of the atmosphere varies according to the soil
and vegetation. On the Pacific, in the Bay of Choco,
rain falls ten months in the year, but in the more arid
parts rain is far from frequent or abundant. The climate
of Guiana has been supposed to be favourable to the
growth of certain spices, as cloves and nutmegs, which,
from some idiosyncracy, are still produced of the best
quality only in the Moluccas.

Flora. — Much of the region is covered with forest,
particularly in the vicinity of the oceans, between which
and the interior a broad belt intervenes. In many in-
stances the trees are remarkable for the beauty of their
wood, the fragrance of their secretions, and the rich and
valuable resins they exude. In Guiana trees of this cha-
racter are very numerous, and belong chiefly to Laurineae.
Throughout are spread a vast number of representatives
of the tropical arborescent families. Graminese abound
in the llanos, chiefly of kellingia, cenchrus, and pas-
palum, intermixed with species of mimosa, turnera, and
malvacese. On some of the rivers a grass, cynerium
saccharoides, attains a height of thirty-two feet. Where
the climate is humid, piperaceae, passifloreae, and me-

362 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

lastomaceae, are very nuinerous, overshadowed by the
singular clusia and the lofty and fecund bignonia.
Filices are numerous as individuals, but, together with
orchidacese, do not abound in species. Some palmse are
peculiar, and of interest.

Relations. — With the neighbouring regions there are
naturally some strong affinities. Rhopala, a proteaceous
genus, occurs ; and also a species of punica.

XIL— THE ANDES REGION.

Extent. — As ur alpine regions always commence at
the line which separates the cultivation of the lowlands
from that of the mountains, the lower boundary will be
at 6,500 feet, and includes all above this to the confines
of the vegetable world at 18,000 feet. It stretches to
the northward along the magnificent mountain chains
of New Granada, and to the south through Peru and
Bolivia, where the line of lowland cultivation will descend
a little. Its exact extent to the south has not been
acertained.

Physical Characters. — Among the stupendous scenery
of the Andes and the steep and scarped precipices and
mountain sides, vegetation would appear unlikely to
flourish ; yet these often afford a shelter, and also assist
to collect a soil in the valleys and plains. Hence, from
the barrenness of a bare surface of primitive rocks, to
the luxuriance of fertile and warm valleys, there is every
variety of productiveness. In the plains between pa-
rallel ranges the soil is often deep and rich, and is equally
suited to agriculture or the rearing of herds of cattle.
Mountain torrents descend in fury through deep chasms,

THE ANDES REGION, 363

or sometimes assuming, for a while, tranquillity, wander
in peaceful and fertilizing streams through the plains.

Climate. — The atmosphere of alpine regions is liable
to violent disturbance from storms, which are both rapid
in their approach and disappearance, and often leave
behind much devastation among the trees of the forest.
The temperature of any given spot is very equable, and
ranges, for the whole region, from 65*^ to several degrees
below the freezing point. Rain falls throughout the
year in frequent showers, with little regard to the seasons,
and the amount is no where great. To the decreased
pressure, greater brilliancy of the sun's rays, and di-
minished suspended moisture, some of the peculiarities
may be referred.

Flora. — The least elevated portion is occupied by a
magnificent forest, and valuable as containing numerous
species of cinchona, which yield a medicine highly prized
throughout the world, except in the neighbourhood of its
production. Some tropical families ascend tenaciously to
these elevations, as piperacese, melastomaceae, cacteae, and
passiflorese, the latter assuming the novel habit of arbo-
rescence ; and the numerous synanthereae are particularly
characteristic. Ficus, oreocallis, clusia, persea, and ocotea,
are mingled with podocarpus, quercus, ilex, and salix.
Above the forest is a large district of bushes with much
variety in the species ; drymis and wintera from the south,
meet ribes, rubus, and viburnum from the north, and are
associated with various species of thibaudia, alnus, andro-
meda, fuchsia, vaccinium, calceolaria, culcitium, duranta,
barnardesia, escallonia, berberis, and befaria. The flora
is agreeably diversified by some hsemanthus, alstroemeria,
sisyrinchium, and other liliaceous plants. The grasses,
which, in both a botanical and economical point of view,
are so important, occupy a broad space between 13,0OO

364 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

and 14,500 feet, and are contributed chiefly by jurava,
stipa, agrostis, panicum, avena, and dactylis. Succeeding
to the grasses are many herbaceous plants, and lastly the
lichens, crowning, as it were, the flora of the region.
Even this very slight sketch would be incomplete with-
out mentioning some of the groups which flourish on the
higher elevations and give an aspect of variety. A few
of these are herbaceous compositae, lowly umbelliferse,
saxifragese, cruciferae, valerianese, and caryophyllese ; with
species of gentiana, rumex, plantago, arum, oxalis,
dorstenia, swertia, and lobelia. The plants attaining the
greatest elevation are two lichens, umbilicaria pustulata
and verrucaria geographica.

Relations. — Between all alpine regions there will be
numerous analogies, but few points of identity, and also
a certain similarity with regions of the lowlands in a pro-
portionate latitude. With the Mexico alpine region are
several sources of resemblance through ericaceae, synan-
therese, cruciferae, quercus, salix, and cheirostemon plata-
noides. It however is deficient in the important genera
of pinus, abies, and rosa. The flora is so rich and varied,
that relations may easily be traced with most regions
under a temperate climate.

XIII. THE AMAZON REGION.

Extent. — This extensive region occupies a chief part
of the empire of Brazil, and comprises the richest and
finest portion of South America. It consists of a magni-
ficent basin intersected by a multitude of rivers, many of
which are of considerable size. The original streams of
the largest of these, the Amazon, have their rise in the
Andes, and gradually uniting their waters, traverse the
region to the Atlantic ocean. Its boundaries are the

THE AMAZON REGION. 365

ridges of the mountain chains, which may be regarded as
the margins of the basin, and cannot be traced with accu-
racy. From east to west it extends from the Atlantic to
the Cordilleras, on the north it has a sinuous outline on
the summits of the Sierra de Araray and the Parime
chain to the bay of Guayaquil ; and on the south between
the provinces ofMinas Geraes and San Paulo, bending to
the head waters of the Paraguay onward to the Andes in
Bolivia.

Physical Characters.— From the Andes, plains of
almost boundless extent gradually incline towards the
Atlantic. Several ranges of low mountains intersect
them, but their comparative importance is trifling, and
their elevation rarely exceeds 4,000, never 6,000 feet ;
which is insufficient to produce any material change in
the vegetation, though permitting some plants to adopt a
selection. Balbi regards these plains as table lands, with
an elevation from 1,030 to 1,660 feet. Granite and
syenite form the bases of both the mountain chains and
the lowlands, on which repose gneiss, mica slate, chlorite
slate, quartz rock, and limestone. On these again are
sandstone and slate clay, with alluvial deposits. True
volcanic rocks have no existence. The soil varies ; in the
forest it is either a rich dark vegetable mould, or a fruit-
ful deep red loam, and both are astonishingly productive
under cultivation. In the more open country sand enters
largely into the soil, and when opposed to a moist as well
as warm atmosphere, displays a varied vegetation. The
soil in the neighbourhood of the rivers has, from their
periodical inundations, attained the greatest fertility, and
gives birth to an excess of luxuriance.

Climate. — The equator traverses the region, but the
climate partakes of that unsteady character with regard
to humidity which is so frequent, and at the same time so

866 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

productive of variety. Para will give us the state of the
climate on the plains nearest the river. The atmosphere
is hot and sultry, and the range of temperature through-
out the year very small ; the mean is 84'^, and the annual
fall of rain from 80 to 100 inches. More to the south,
the year is regularly distributed into the wet and dry
seasons. At Rio Janeiro the rains occur from September
to March, the temperature high, and often with much
electrical disturbance of the atmosphere. In the interior
of the country rain is less abundant, and in some places
scarce. The seasons are the reverse of those in the
neighbouring Oronoco regions.

FLORA.~In this region the American tropical families
are in excess, and have the greatest number of represen-
tatives. The vegetation has a twofold character, com-
prising the forest, which extends in a broad belt along the
coast from north to south, and the Sertam country, aeon-
traction of dezertam, where grasses and shrubs prevail, and
occasionally a few trees in sheltered valleys or ravines.

The forest is composed of an endless number of trees,
of which to mention some would be placing others too
much in the background. These trees attain a great
height, with straight clear stems, their foliage uniting in
a canopy above, and leaving all beneath in perfect shade
and quiet. This great longitudinal developement is not
favourable to a protracted existence, as age and climate
soon attack the trees, and their places are left vacant for
others. Of the natural families which abound in greatest
intensity, and are also conspicuous for their interest, are,
palmas, assuming much variety of habit, cinchonaceae,
melastomaceae, piperacese, myrtacese, marcgraaviaceae,
gesneriese, sapindaceae, vochyaceae, guttiferae, malpighi-
aceae, hippocrateaceae, and bromeliacese. Epiphytic
plants festoon the trees in multitudes, but here orchi-

10

THE AMAZON REGION. 367

daceae are not frequent, and their place is supplied by
species of bromelia, tillandsia, the strange pothos, and
many ferns. The twining plants are freely supplied by
passifloreae, leguminosse, convolvulaceae, aristolochiae,
asclepiadese, and mikania.

The Sertam country has its own vegetable charms, and
though much occupied by grasses with a dull grey hairy
surface, has large spaces covered with bushwood, and
sometimes even trees. Many of these are attractive, and
chiefly belong to cinchonaceae, compositae, apocyneae,
malpighiaceae, and euphorbiaceae. A few of the more
numerous genera are declieuxia, rhexia, banisteria, gaudi-
chaudia, croton, wedelia, kleinia, and sauvagesia. The
trees are described by Von Martins as attaining only
fifteen or twenty feet in height, and growing as a light
open grove. The chief are derived from laplacia, gom-
phia, marcgraafia, vochysia, qualia, solanum, byrsonima,
erythroxylon, panax, and rhexia ; and amaryllideae are
frequent.

Some peculiarities may be noticed on the sides and
summits of the different mountain chains. On Itacolumi,
or the Child of Stone, a mountain near Villa Eica, attain-
ing 5,710, Von Martins saw the curious arborescent
lilies of barbacennia bicolor, b. tricolor, b. tomentosa,
b. luzulaefolia, b. ensifolia, vellosia abietina, and v.
taxifolia. Other characterizing genera are galium, mo-
rinda, declieuxia, oxypetalum, ditassa, lisianthus, exagum,
phyllanthus, lavradia, gloxinia, gesneria, vitis, and terns-
troemia. Growing on the ironstone floetz formation, and
supposed to be distinctive of it, were, laurus erythropus,
bauhinia ferruginosa, abatia tomentosa, brysonima niti-
dissima, banisteria versicolor, vanillosma firmum, lisi-
anthus pulcherrimus, phyllanthus robustus, and mikania
glauca. The swampy ground is distinguished by species

368 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

of hydrocotyle, drosera, andromeda, gaultlieria, utricu-
laria, sauvagesia, and eriocaulon.

Relations. — Among the alpine plants, if so they can
be called, are many intimately connected with the ve-
getation of the temperate regions of Europe and North
America, as panas, clethra, vitis, galium, and gaultheria.
Ambrosia artemesiaefolia, a strand plant of the Iroquois
Region, occurs on the shores of Paraiba. Walsh saw
patches of the European fern, aspidium filix mas, and
also bushes of Rubus occidentalis. The same traveller
mentions avena sterilis attaining a height of ten feet.
For some time the existence of canna indica was sup-
posed to confer an interesting point of identity with
India, but it is now known to be a frequent plant within
the tropics.

XIV.— THE PARAGUAY REGION.

Extent. — It embraces the space of country traversed
by the Paraguay River and its tributary streams ; its
outline will thus extend from the coast between the
Brazilian provinces of San Paulo and Minas Garaes,
and, arching to the north, terminate on the limits of the
Pampas Region, and again on the south along the course
of the Rio Plata, and the hitherto unascertained margin
of the same region.

Physical Characters. — A portion of this country is
not so completely a plain as would appear from the
maps, as towards the Andes several spurs are sent off
which spread into the interior. San Paulo is sufficiently
elevated to affect considerably its productions, and the
difference between it and Minas Geraes has struck
several travellers. Generally the soil is rich and fertile,

THE PARAGUAY REGION. dhlf

but there are large spaces covered with scarcely any-
thing but sand, and yielding a poor bushy vegetation.

Climate. — That of San Paulo corresponds to the
whole region; the mean temperature of the year is 73°,
and the range is small. Hoar frost is sometimes seen,
but snow is unknown. The rains occur at two periods,
the autumnal being the heaviest.

Flora. — The tropical features, which the Amazon
Region possesses in such intensity, have greatly dimi-
nished ; palmse are few ; ferns continue very numerous,
but with a habit more suited to a drier climate. Bac-
charis and other compositae cover the sandy districts,
and cacteae are frequent. Umbelliferae, though far from
numerous, have a greater preponderance than in neigh-
bouring regions. The forest is open, and composed of
fine trees ; arborescent ferns still continue, and where
they assemble in groves exclude all other vegetation, a
peculiarity possessed by them when growing gregariously.
In a collection of plants made in the warmer portion of
the region, compositae were a r2th, leguminosse a 15th,
cinchonaceae and orchideae a 20th, melastomacese a 29th,
labiataeand solaneae a 40th.

Tristan da Cunha, situated in 37° S. lat., is known
to possess 113 indigenous plants, among which are
several umbelliferae, which induces us to regard the island
as a fragment of this region.

Relations. — These are perhaps feeble with distant
regions, whilst they are not strong with those in the
vicinity. Araucaria brasiliensis is frequent in the forest,
a representative of an Australian genus, though having
a nearly allied species in Chili.

VOL. II. li li

170 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

XV.— THE CHILI AND PERU REGION.

Extent. — A peculiar and well-defined region, but still
far from productive. It includes a narrow strip between
the Cordilleras and the Pacific Ocean from Cape Blanco
in 4° S. lat. to the oblique line stretching from 36
S. lat. on the coast of Chili to Port St. Antonio on the
opposite side. Both limits are well marked ; at the
northern the forest of the adjacent region commences
suddenly, and at the southern, around Conception, rapidly
appear those numerous genera, which establish so strong
a relation between the Patagonia Region and the tem-
perate latitudes of the northern hemisphere. Some
doubts may arise whether the Andes of its southern
part should not be included, and I am disposed to think
they ought, but at present it is impossible to trace the
exact relations. The two islands of Juan Fernandez
also belong here.

Physical Characters. — The flank of the Cordilleras
regarding the Pacific is composed chiefly of porphyritic
rocks, but the somewhat inclined plane which slopes
towards the ocean is formed by deposits of clay, both
tertiary and recent, very frequently inclosing shells, and
resting; on a substratum of brown sandstone. The surface
may be divided into the valleys and the intervening
ridges ; the former containing some soil, and a supply
of water near which is assembled the entire vegetation,
whilst the spaces between are usually quite bare, or only
support some straggling brushwood. The soil in the
exposed places contains a large proportion of salt, both
of nitrate of potash and chloride of sodium, which lies
in a thin stratum one or two inches beneath the surface
and can be easily removed in solid thin cakes. This

THE CHILI AND PERU REGION. 371

admixture renders the soil very puffy, and after being
moistened by the heavy dews it forms a thin brittle
crust. It also deprives it of the customary cohesion,
and wherever the soil has collected, as on the sides of
the hills and valleys, the foot readily sinks six or eight
inches.

Climate. — Though much is within the tropics, it has
few corresponding features. The temperature of the
intertropical part is warm during the dry season, but is
unusually cold and chilly at the opposite period ; it has
thus a great range. Rain is a novelty almost through-
out, and instead there are dense falling mists, called
garuas, from May to August, which render the weather
particularly unpleasant. In the northern part these
cease with great suddenness, for in the Bay of Guayaquil
the rains are very heavy, and at Tumbez, within half a
degree, a shower is not seen for years together. To the
south the two are gradually shaded off into each other,
and at Valparaiso the rainy season is short and less
regular, whilst at times there is something like the
garuas. The absence of regular rain has been attributed
to the south wind, which blows with much constancy ;
and it has been observed that during the season of mists
a light breeze from the opposite quarter is not unfre-
quent. At Valparaiso the temperature is more in ac-
cordance with its geographical position ; it is situated
in 33° S. lat., and during June and July, the two most
unfavourable months, the range was from 4G° to 64"
the dews extremely heavy, but rain fell latterly.

Flora. — Nothing that can be called forest exists, a
few trees only being scattered sparingly about, and though
much is within the tropic, corresponding characters are
not strong. Cocos chilensis has a few individuals scat-
tered about the valleys in the neighbourhood of Val-

B R 2

o(A THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

paraiso, and the potato may be seen here growing wild
on some of the hills ; a species of bambusa is not un-
common, and a salix is frequent in the valleys. The
chief tree is cordia decandra, but many spots are not
deficient in cultivated fruit trees. The plants recalling
tropical features are azara serrata, krameria cistoidea,
coriaria ruscifolia, cassia sp., mimosa cavenia, loasa aceri-
folia, amirola glandulosa, and croton lanceolatus. Cereus,
opuntia, euphorbia, lobelia, calceolaria, and oxalis, are
common. About Valparaiso are low thickets of shrubby
compositse ; and avnaryllidete and irideae are numerous.
On waste ground near Lima tropseolum majus abounds,
with sida, datura, cestrum, alternanthera, CEnothera,
asclepias, and calceolaria. In a few favoured valleys
the ground is quite yellow with the multitudes of flowers
of pancratium amencaes, whose expanding flowers are
the signal for the conimencement of the revels bearing-
its name.

Relations. — The most interesting will be with the
California Region, with which there is much similarity
in climate, and some in productions through ageratum,
mimulus, castilleja, rhus, ribes, berberis, and laurus.
The prevalence of bulbous plants in Chili confers some
resemblance with the South Africa Region.

XVI.— THE PAMPAS REGION.

Extent. — That portion of South America between the
Andes and the mouth of the Rio Plata is composed en-
tirely of this peculiar district. To the north it extends
to the neighbourhood of the towns of the interior, and ap-
proaches the river Paraguay ; its exact outline is here
imperfectly known. To the south it terminates in an

THE PAMPAS REGION. 373

oblique line, extending from the Port of San Antonio to
36" S. latitude on the west coast.

Physical Characters. — A vast plain stretches on all
sides, very slightly raised above the level of the sea, and
only diversified in a few places by low hills. Some un-
important rivers have their origin, and are often again
lost in the soil. Reddish marl is mentioned as occurring,
but is not perhaps general. To the south the soil is
impregnated with saline matter.

Climate. — The seasons are temperate, and their alter-
nations produce a rapid change in the vegetation.

Flora. — The remarks of Sir Francis Head on the
features are appropriate. " The great plain of Pampas of
the Cordillera is about 900 miles broad, and the part
which I have visited, though in the same latitude, is
divided into regions of different climate and produce. On
leaving Buenos Ayres, the first of these regions is covered,
for 180 miles with clover and thistles ; the second, which
extends for 430 miles, produces long grass ; and the third
region, which reaches the base of the Cordillera, is a grove
of low trees and shrubs. The second and third of these
regions have nearly the same appearance throughout the
year ; for the trees and shrubs are evergreens ; and the
immense plain of grass only changes its colour from green
to brown ; but the first region varies with the four sea-
sons of the year, in a most extraordinary manner. In
winter, the leaves of the thistles are large and luxuriant,
and the whole appearance of the country has the rough
appearance of a turnip field. The clover, at this season,
is extremely rich and strong ; and the sight of the wild
cattle, grazing at full liberty in such pasture, is beautiful.
In spring, the clover has vanished, the foliage of the
thistle has extended across the ground, and the country
still looks as if covered with a rough crop of turnips. In

374 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

less than a month the change is most extraordinary ; the
whole region becomes luxuriant with enormous thistles,
which have suddenly shot up to a height often or eleven
feet, and are in full bloom. * * * The summer is not
over before the scene undergoes another change ; the
thistles suddenly loose their sap and verdure ; their heads
droop, the leaves shrink and fade, the stems become
black and dead, and they remain rattling with the breeze
one against another, until the violence of the pampero or
hurricane levels them with the ground, where they
rapidly decompose and disappear ; the clover rushes up,
and the scene is again verdant." Ranunculaceae, caryo-
phylleae, and cruciferse, make their appearance, and the
low bushes are most probably chiefly compositse. Species
of lathyrus, polygala, anemone, oxalis, lobelia, galium,
plantago, and teucrium, are also frequent.

Relations. — There is a strong connexion with some of
the European Regions through numerous genera, and
some slight alliance with the South Africa Region. It is
curious that an exotic thistle, cynara cardunculus, should
have taken such entire possession of a large district, as to
have obliterated nearly the whole of the spontaneous
vegetation. Its luxuriance is so great, that the question
arises, whether plants can ever find a situation more
favourable to their existence than that in which nature
has placed them .'' The excessive developement also of
psidium pomiferum, at Tahiti, would seem to require an
affirmative. In general character there is some similarity
with the Prairie Region, but the minuter features are
different, and the latter is less fertile.

THE PATAGONIA REGION. 375

XVII.— THE PATAGONIA REGION.

Extent. — In the vicinity of Conception, a change
takes place in the character of the vegetation, and in the
climate ; trees commence, and heavy rains are exchanged
for the peculiar climate of Chili and Peru. An imagi-
nary line, commencing on the west coast, in 36*^ S. lati-
tude, and extending obliquely to Port San Antonio, on
the opposite side, separates the southern extremity of the
continent, and with the adjacent islands constitutes the
region.

Physical Characters.— The Andes have now lost
their stupendous size, and are continued as an inferior
mountain range, of an average elevation of 3,000 feet,
rarely or never attaining 6,000 feet, and their appearance
is wild, bleak, and desolate. Primitive rocks abound,
and granite greatly prevails ; towards the Straits of
Magellan are various hornblendes and slates, and the
latter appear favourable to vegetation, for fagus antarc-
tica attains on it a great size, whilst a reddish sandstone
is barren.

Climate. — Moist and unfriendly for the latitude ; the
number of rainy days is very great, and a thoroughly
fine one is rather a novelty. Though the temperature is
not in extremes, still the summer months are chilly.
For the month of May, in the vicinity of Cape Horn,
the mean temperature was 40°, the range from 30 to 48°,
and very equable through the day and night ; the fall of
rain eight inches ; dew-point 2" or 3" below the atmo-
sphere, the greatest being T or 8"; hail frequent, with
the temperature from 42° to 48°. About Conception the
climate is more agreeable, the temperature warmer, and
the rain falls at regular seasons.

376 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

Flora. — Irregular groujDs of wood cover the surface,
wherever tlie climate is moderate, and there is a mitiga-
tion of its general austerity. The chief trees are as-
sembled about Conception, and somewhat to the south is
the principal station of auraucaria imbricata. Among
these are fagus obliqua, laurus lingui, laurelia aromatica,
drymis chilensis, quadria heterophylla. At Tierra del
Fuego and Staten Land, fagus antarctica, an evergreen
species, is frequent, and, assisted by others of a similar
habit, gives a peculiar character to the scenery. Forster,
the companion of Cook, has described with some quaint-
ness the general features. " In the cavities and cre-
vices of the huge piles of rocks, forming Tierra del
Fuego and Staten Land, so very like each other, where
a little moisture is preserved by its situation, and where^
from the continued friction of the loose pieces of rocks,
washed and hurried down the steejD sides of the rocky
masses, a few minute particles form a kind of sand; there,
in the stagnant water, gradually spring up a few algaceous
plants from seeds carried thither on the feet, plumage,
and bills of birds ; these plants form at the end of each
season a few atoms of mould which yearly increases ; the
birds, the sea, or the wind carries from a neighbouring
isle, the seeds of some of the mossy plants to this little
mould, and they vegetate in it during the proper sea-
sons. Though these plants are not absolute mosses, they
are, however, nearly related to them in their habit. We
reckon among them the ixia pumila, a new plant which
we call donatia, a small melanthium, a minute oxalis and
calendula, another little dioicous plant, called by us phyl-
lachne, together with the mniarum. These j^lants, or
the greater ])art of them, have a peculiar growth, parti-
cularly adapted to these regions, and fit for forming soil
and mould on barren rocks. In proportion as they grow

THE PATAGONIA REGION. 377

up, ihey spread into various stems and branches, which
lie as closely together as possible ; they spread new
seeds, and at last a large spot is covered ; the lowermost
fibres, roots, stalks, and leaves, gradually decay and push
forth on the top new verdant leaves ; the decaying lower
parts form a kind of peat or turf, which gradually
changes into mould and soil. The close texture of these
plants hinders the moisture below from evaporating, and
thus furnishes nutriment to the vegetation above, and
clothes at last whole hills and isles with a constant ver-
dure. Among the pumilous plants some of a greater
stature begin to thrive, without in the least prejudicing
the growth of these creators of mould and soil. Among*
these plants we reckon a small arbutus, a diminutive
myrtle, a little dandelion, a small creeping crassula, the
common pinguicula alpina, a yellow variety of viola
palustris, statice armeria or sea-pink, a kind of burnet,
tiie ranunculus lapponicus, the liolcus odoratus, the com-
mon celery, (apium australe,) with the arabis hetero-
phylla. Soon after we observed, in places which are still
covered with the above-mentioned, a new rush, (juncus
triglumis,) a fine amellus, a most beautiful scarlet che-
lone, (C. ruelloides,) and lastly even shrubby plants, viz.
a scarlet-flowered shrubby plant of a new genus, which
we called embothrium coccineum, two new kinds of ber-
berry, (berberis ilicifolia, b. mitior,) an arbutus with
cuspidate leaves, (A. nmcronata,) and lastly the tree
bearing the winter's bark, (drymis winteri,) which, how-
ever, in these rocky barren parts of Tierra del Fuego
never exceeds the size of a tolerable shrub ; whereas in
Success Bay, on a gentle sloping ground, in a rich and
deep soil, it grows to the size of the largest timber."
Many of Foi-ster's new names have now become as fa-

378 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

miliar as household words to the botanist. Mosses and
lichens abound here, but ferns are scarce.

The flora of the Falkland Islands is scanty, being
composed chiefly of a few compositse, graminese, lichens,
and musci. Bolax glebaria is found here, and veronica
decussata as a shrub six feet high, but not fit for fire-
wood, the deficiency of which is met by peat, which,
Weddel says, is abundant.

The South Shetlands have only some straggling grass
and a lichen.

Relations. — The relations are stronger with the tem-
perate regions of the northern hemisphere than with
those in its vicinity. With the former it has a number
of genera in common, as, omitting those already men-
tioned, betula, ribes, rubus, andromeda, vaccinium, auri-
cula, cardamine, draba, lepidium, stellaria, hydrocotyle,
anemone, drosera, galium, tussilago, salix, carex, cy-
perus, and usnea. With adjoining regions, fuchsia,
myrtus, drymis, baccharis, escallonia, calceolaria, and
chelone. With the South Africa Region, nothwithstand-
ing a considerable difference in the climate, gladiolus,
ixia, wistenia, galaxia, and crassula. And with New
Holland, araucaria, embothrium, ourisia, and mniarum.
Its own peculiarities are due to the novelty of nearly the
Avhole of the species, and to the genera gaimardia, astelia,
callixene, philesia, drapetes, bsea, pernettia, oligosporus,
nassavia, bolax, azorella, donatia, acsena, hamadryas, and
the curious misodendrum. A relation of identity with
European regions is established through pinguicula al-
pina, viola palustris, statice armeria, dactylis glomerata,
and several mosses and lichens.

THE POLYNESIA REGION. 370

XVIIL— THE POLYNESIA REGION.

Extent. — The various groups of islands composing
this region have no great superficies, but possess many
features of peculiarity and interest. The region by no
means includes all the group of the Pacific Ocean, but
only those which are more particularly designated as
Polynesia. It comprises the Sandwich Islands, the
Society Islands, the Marquesas Islands, the Gambler
Islands, the Harvey Islands, the low coral islands of the
Dangerous or Pomoutou group, and the Radack and
Ralick chains, with a few solitary detached, but unim-
portant islands.

Physical Characters. — There are perhaps few spots
where such an assemblage of agreeable external circum-
stances is met with, and where the visitor is assailed by
so many favourable impressions. The climate is warm
without being oppressive, the scenery partakes of all that
variety nature can so well assume, where mountain,
valley, and plain exist, and have each their charms ;
and where the vegetation is varied and agreeable, with-
out being in excess. The islands may be regarded as so
many mountains of basalt and lava, split by numerous
valleys, and with their bases often dilated into plains,
stretching with various inclinations to the cliffs or coral
reefs of the shores. The valleys are usually very steep,
and contain the chief and richest soil, for the mountains
often display precipices with the smoothness and regu-
larity of artificial walls. Elsewhere are numerous pro-
jecting masses of rocks, rendering certain parts entirely
unfit for cultivation. Among the denser vegetation the
soil is black from the mixture of organic matter, but on
the plains it is frequently of a deep-red colour, and may
be used as a coarse paint. This owes much of its exist-

380 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

ence to the decomposition of the lava rock, and is very
productive w^hen supplied with abundance of water. The
coral islands must be excepted from the above, as they
have a low flat circular surface, with small patches of
vegetable mould.

Climate. — Within the influence of the trade-winds,
and ever fanned by their breezes, the temperature of the
region is not high for the latitude. It is something
greater at the Society Islands to the south of the equator,
than at the Sandwich Islands to the north. At Ho-
nolulu, Sandwich Islands, Mr. Rooke's Observations
for 1 838, give the mean temperature as 77° 3, fall of
rain 21-1 inches, fine days 285, rainy 37, variable 43.
Similar observations at the Society Islands are wanting.
The quantity of rain in different places varies greatly ;
and in the interior, near the highest land, the amount
will be three or four times more than the above; and
places to windward will have less than others to leeward.
From some observations, I am disposed to fix 193 feet
of ascent as equal to one degree of the thermometer. The
seasons at the two sides of the equator will be at different
periods, and rains occur a little after the summer solstice.
At the Marquesas I found some relative temperatures to
be, under the shade of vegetation 86° 5, the soil 80°, the
sun's rays partially obscured, 103°.

Flora. — The vegetation is not rich but interesting ;
indeed it may be called a poor flora. Forest cannot be
said to exist ; and the trees crowd up the valleys and less
perpendicular ascents, with more the character of groves.
Irregular patches of these diversify the aspect of the
country, the intervals being filled with smaller vegeta-
tion, Dracsena terminalis spreads over the valleys; and
the troublesome grass, ccntrotheca lappacea, covers every
dry spot on the ridges and sides of the hills, and even of

THE POLYNESIA REGION. 381

the plains. The trees are not large but numerous, and
want the great height attained in the genuine forest.
The vegetation is otherwise peculiar, from its small and
inconspicuous flowers, being deficient in size and richness
of colour, the absence of fragrant properties to a great
extent, and the leaves being mostly small, undivided, and
of a dull shade of colour.

I have thought that there were proofs here of plants
degenerating towards the margins of the extent of their
indigenous existence. Artocarpus incisa, broussonetia
papyrifera, and aleurites triloba, grow nearly everywhere
spontaneously. At the Society Islands they thrive vigo-
rously, as large trees ; but on advancing eastward they
gradually diminish in size and vigour till, in the Gambier
group, they are hardly of any use to the natives ; and in
Easter Island, where the two latter are found, they are
low and useless bushes. The same circumstance may be
noticed with the shells, cardium cardissa, terebra macu-
lata, conus betulinus, purpura persica, and perhaps
others.

The Sandwich Islands have a superficies of 6,600 square
miles. The prevailing families are, Alices, very nume-
rous ; a large proportion of compositse, cinchonacesB,
leguminos8e> malvaceae, cyrtandracese, labiatse, urticese,
euphorbiaceae, piperacese, and graminese. The vegetation
is more closely distinguished by several araliacese, goode-
noviae, lobeliacese, amarantaceae, and pandanese ; whilst
the presence of cruciferae, saxifrageee, and umbelliferae,
invests it with further peculiarities. Till recently no palm
beyond the cocoa-nut was supposed to exist, but a species
of charaaerops has been discovered. Orchidacese have no
existence. The peculiar genera are few, kadua, charpen-
tiera, dubautia, and a ^ew others. In Hawaii, Mouna Roa
reaches 15,980 feet, and Mouna Koa 13,500 feet, and

382 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

have a vegetation with alpine features. Vaccinium,
rubiis, and fragaria are found here ; and when the flora
shall he better known, a small alpine region will most
probably become necessary.

The Society Islands. These islands have a much
smaller superficies, and a flora of only 500 species. They
contain nearly the whole of the different species of the
region south of the equator ; and there are very few not
found at Tahiti, the largest of the group. The prevailing
families of the Sandwich Islands exist equally here, the
chief peculiarities depending on the presence of several
cruciferae, on the comparative abundance of cinchonaceae,
euphorbiacese, and urticeee, the scarcity of leguminosse,
and through celtis discolor in possessing ulmacese.

The Marquesas yield nothing in natural beauty to the
other islands, and have a flora hitherto very sparingly
examined, but apparently identical with that of the
Society Islands, though even less abundant. The self-
introduced plants which fringe the shores are different
from those of the same class at the Sandwich Islands, and
evidently come from that part of the coast of America
nearest at hand. Some species monopolize a large sur-
face. Hibiscus tiliaceus runs far into the valleys, to the
exclusion of everything else ; desmodium purpureuni
occupies the waste ground near the sea ; and centrotheca
lappacea spreads higher upon the hills. The bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut compose large groves.

The Harvey Islands have a vegetation identical with
the Society Islands. Rarotonga has the reputation of
being the most picturesque island of the Pacific. It is
very productive ; and the paramount object of the resi-
dents at present is to exclude the guava-bush, which at
Tahiti has spread so widely, obliterated the grass, and
much other of the vegetation.

THE POLYNESIA REGION. 383

The Gambler Islands are volcanic islands set in coral
reefs. The flora is the same as at the Society Islands.
Metrosideros obovata has hitherto only been met with
here.

The Pomoutou Islands. These irregular coral islands
are upwards of fifty in number. Their surface is com-
posed of ragged fragments of dead coral, with a little
vegetable mould in places ; and sometimes water is found
a few inches beneath the surface. The flora is extremely
limited, and, it must be inferred, in no respect original ;
yet there are one or two plants at present not known to
exist elsewhere. A collection of plants made by myself,
with a few additions from other sources, gives a total
amount of 47 species, which are referable to 40 genera,
and 27 families. Lepidium piscidium disregards the
heat, and appears wherever there is a little soil, and the
parasitic cassythis filiformis mats together the bushes.

The Radack and Ralick Chains^ though closely resem-
bling the latter, are more productive, and cultivation is
practised. Chamisso mentions 52 species, many of which
are indigenous at the Sandwich Islands and Guahon.
He also observes that the southern islands have a richer
soil and older vegetation.

Relations. — The existence of this region, as a whole,
is very clearly defined ; the connexions with the nearest
regions not being very intimate. Its relations are spread
far and wide. In the Sandwich Islands there are affi-
nities with New Holland through metrosideros, myopo-
rum, exocarpus, cyathodes, and an aphyllous acacia ; with
Europe are several jungermannia, and musci in common;
besides, with North America and Asia, several identical
species. In the Society Islands the affinities are strong-
est with New Holland through metrosideros, myoporum,
casuarina, and dodonaea ; but they have no representative

5

384 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

of epacridese, as at the Sandwich Islands, From these
latter they are further distinguished by the presence of
licus and several orchidaceae. With South America and
Asia there are some relations, but they are not striking,
Rhizophora has no existence.

XIX. THE PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA REGION.

Extent. — Several large and important islands, of
which New Guinea is by far the most extensive, lying
between the equator and 23° south latitude. Commenc-
ing at the western extremity, the region includes the
Moluccas, Papua or New Guinea, the former designa-
tion being the most in use in the surrounding seas, the
Admiralty Islands, New Britain, and New Ireland, the
Solomon Islands, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, the
Feejee Islands, Tonga archipelago, and Navigator's Is-
lands.

Physical Characters. — The scenery is bold and
rugged, particularly about the Solomon group, and many
of the islands are nothing but mountains. The forest,
which abounds everywhere, rests on rocky declivities,
with very little soil. In Papua and the Feejee Islands,
there are extensive level surfaces of rich soil, apparently
the deposit of rivers. There are several active volca-
nos, and much of the structure is in every probability
volcanic. Conglomerate, limestone, and stratified sand-
stone occur in Papua. The islands of the Tonga grouj)
are curious flat tables of limestone, forty feet and up-
wards above the level of the sea, and with deep water
close to their wall-like cliffs. The elevation of the
mountains of Papua is undoubtedly not so great as has
been supposed, and along the whole extent of its northern

PAPUA OR NEW GULNEA REGION. 385

shore none are visible which at all approach the limit of
perpetual snows.

Climate. — Heat and moisture prevail, and render
the climate a warm, and from the productions, it is
likely, a peculiar one. An anomaly exists in the distribu-
tion of the seasons. It is customary for the south-east
monsoon to bring the dry season to the space over which
it blows from May to October inclusive. The north-
west monsoon prevails for the remaining- months of the
year and accompanies the rains. The reverse happens
over the extent of this region, for though the monsoons
are not so powerfully felt at its eastern extremity, the cli-
mate is everywhere the same. In the south-east mon-
soon the rains are heavy and frequent, and the deposition
must be very considerable.

Flora.— Approaching this region from the eastward,
the character of the flora as distinct from the Polynesian
is very evident; palmse become more numerous through
charaaerops, caryota, and areca ; pandanus has many spe-
cies ; leguminosae, though more abundant than in the
Polynesia Region, and compositae are not frequent, a
proof of the usually moist state of the atmosphere ; cycas
first appears at New Ireland, and rhizophora in the
rivers of the Feejees. However, it is a flora, with the
exception of the Moluccas, almost unknown.

Papua or New Guinea. — Forest covers everywhere
this large and fine, but unhealthy, island, and presents
H variety which perhaps makes it the most prolific of
veoetable forms in the world. The vef^etation is ex-
tremely varied, and the species appear to have a limited
range. Here, as elsewhere, it is chiefly on the margins
of the forest, that flowers and herbaceous plants are
seen. The colours are generally little attractive, and
white greatly prevails. This is partly compensated by

VOL. II. C C

386 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

the frequent fragrance of theflo\A'ers, and sometimes even
of the foliage. Leguininosae, solane8e, and umbelliferae,
are uncommon. Trees of achras and myristica are
numerous in the forest, and there are several species of
each. The nutmegs are without the aroma found in
myristica moschata. This genus extends as far to the
east as the Feejee Islands, Perns of every variety of
habit are most numerous, and orchidacese abound.

The 3Ioluccas have a less compact forest, as open
Spaces of bushes often occur, but a great variety in its
trees. They are remarkable, as the native country of
the clove and nutmeg of commerce, and of other aroma-
tic productions.

Relations. — When the southern shores of New
Guinea are better known, there will most probably be
discovered many sources of resemblance with New Hol-
land. At present the most prominent are, casuarina,
common throughout the region, melaleuca and eucalyp-
tus in the Moluccas, and acacia laurifolia, an aphyllous
species, in the eastern groups. A passiflora is common in
the Feejee and Navigators' Islands. Agathis appears
in the Moluccas, as well as in New Zealand, and the
resin is largely used, under the name of dammar, to give

lioht.

XX— THE AUSTRALIA TROPIC REGION.

Extent. — The space between the northern shores of
New Holland and the limit of the tropic in 23°*28' south
latitude. The genuine characters of this region are lost,
even within this limit, towards the west coast, where at
Point Leveque in 123° east longitude, it meets the west
Australian region.

AUSTRALIA TROPIC REGION. 387

Physical Characters. — Little is known respecting it,
the coast only having received a partial examination.
The shores are generally low and sandy, often barren,
but sometimes clothed with a rich and luxuriant vegeta-
tion.

Climate. — Tropical in temperature, but deficient in
the usual amount of suspended moisture.

Flora, — The thin forest of New Holland prevails, but
partakes more of the usual tropical characters, and in
some places is so dense and vigorous as to be almost
impenetrable. In the vicinity of Van Dienien's Gulf spe-
cies of eucalyptus, corypha, panJanus, acacia, and croton,
form a thick vegetation. The shores are closely beset by
rhizophora, brugiera, and carallia, all genera of rhizo-
phoreae. Palmae are not numerous, and are represented
by corypha, seaforthia, livingstonia, and calamus. Le-
guminosse, as might be expected in such a climate, are
very abundant ; also euphorbiacese through croton and
phyllanthus ; and coniferae are present in podocarpus,
callitris, and araucaria. A. excelsa is not here a large
tree, but occasionally covers much space. Cinchonaceae
do not abound, and such as exist have Indian relations.
Bignoniacese have a few species. Cryptogamic plants,
epiphytic orchidacese, and others with similar habits, and
depending less on their roots for food than on the at-
mosphere, are all infrequent. Loranthus, embracing as it
does genuine parisites, is frequent on all the coasts of
New Holland.

Those plants so entirely characteristic of this continent,
and which are developed so profusely in the metropolis
of their existence, are still spread among the vegetation,
but in reduced numbers. Proteaceee are nearly limited
to grevillea, hakea, and persoonia ; the Australian myr-
taceae are few ; diosmese has only eriostemon and phe-

C C 2

388 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

balium ; eucalyptus has few species and individuals, and
diminished vigour ; casuarina is gradually disappearing.
Relations. — Mr. Allan Cunningham has had the best
opportunities of examining the vegetation. In an ex-
pedition directed to this part of the coast he collected
1500 species of phenogamous plants, of which 520
had been previously described. In a comparison
between the east and north-west coasts in the parallel
of 15°, and with an intervening space of 1,800 miles, he
found only forty-eight species in common. He also
gives a list of fifty-two Indian and South American plants,
which are indigenous to Australia, (King's voyages.
Appendix.) Umbelliferce have a few species, and there
are some close relations with the flora of New Guinea
and the Malay Islands. Among others, myristica is not
uncommon on the northern and north-western coast.

XXI.— THE NEW SOUTH WALES REGION.

Extent. — The British colony of New South Wales
occupies a large portion of the east coast of New Holland.
Our region is, however, more rigorously defined, and will
comprise the east portion of the continent south of the
tropic, and ceases to the west and south somewhere in the
neighbourhood of the mouth of the Morumbrido-ee.

Physical Characters. — The whole continent has
been divided into two parts, the region of terraces, and
the region of plains, separated by the 148th meridian.
Captain Sturt observes, that of the ridges which divide
the latter, each presents a different rock formation, and
also that he has noticed that the botanical and geological
features are intimately connected. The Blue Mountains

NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. 389

attain no considerable elevation, scarcely exceeding 3,000
feet, and form a wild and sterile barrier between two
portions of the country. The soil varies, much is ex-
tremely arid, and some is productive on slight cultivation.
It is probably a variety which will soon wear out, and
large tracts are required for grazing purposes. The kind
of trees growing are regarded as a good indication of the
quality of the soil ; the native apple (Angophora lanceo-
lata) selecting a good soil, and the spotted gum and
stringy bark a bad. Rhagodia, salsola, and similar plants,
are met with in places, and indicate a saline soil. After
the wet season, ephemeral rivers traverse the country, and
lose themselves either in sandy plains or chains of
marshy ponds. At other seasons much of the surface is
indifferently watered.

Climate. — There is a great disposition to excess both
in temperature and in dryness. The range of the ther-
mometer is sometimes very great and sudden, being in
the summer months from 36° to 106°, the mean 70°; and
in the winter months from 27° to 98°, the mean GG.'^ At
Sidney the number of rainy days is 107. There is evi-
dently a strong adaptation of the vegetation to the climate
and other physical agents.

Flora. — It has been observed by many, that in the
Australian vegetation there is a sombre dulness which en-
tirely excludes any of those lively and agreeable impres-
sions it elsewhere so frequently creates. The forest,
where it abounds, is not close and compact, but so open as
to offer no obstruction to the passenger, and intervals are
frequently occupied by dry stunted bushes, or straggling
grass. Mr. P. Cunningham remarks that the trees are
nearly all evergreens, with fewer branches, and compara-
tively fewer leaves than European trees. Many shed their
bark, and whilst the new has the appearance of a dead

390 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

tree pealed, the old bark is hanging in loose shreds and
flakes, giving the whole much the character of an assem-
blage of dead trees. Dr. R. Brown attributes the mono-
tonous ?spect and want of lustre in the vegetation to the
equal existence of the cutaneous glands, or stomata, on
both surfaces of the leaf. Nor when vegetation has
ceased does the decay of the decomposing parts impart
the usual fertility, for Captain Sturt conceives that the
decaying leaves and timber, instead of adding richness to
the soil, actually preclude minor vegetation, and that
plants seem to shun the spot where a tree has fallen and
gone to decay. In a climate so arid, the seasons will
assert a powerful influence over the vegetation, and as
soon as the beneficial efl'ects of the rains are felt, there is
much gaiety and liveliness in the numerous curious and
handsome flowers ; but on their disappearance the vegeta-
tion soon becomes parched and uninteresting. The wood
of the trees possesses to an important extent the pro-
perty of incombustibility, which is supposed to be due
to the presence of aluminous earth.

The botanist must take a closer inspection, and here finds
a novelty and pleasure the more general observer is de-
prived of. The various species of eucalyptus, nearly a
hundred in number, compose the chief bulk of the forest ;
it has been estimated at four-fifths. They are frequently
trees of enormous dimensions, except within the tropics,
where they are also fewer. Exocarpus cuprtssiformis is
the commonest tree of New Holland, without the tropics.
Casuarina has many species, which have the local name
of oaks. Leguminosae are very abundant, the decandrous
papilionaceous kinds prevail, as pultenaea, gompholobium,
and dillwynia ; and the aphyllous species of acacia are
almost peculiar. Compositse are liberally represented by
tlic ti-ibe corymbifer-tE, but very sparingly by the two

NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. 391

others. Orcliidacese are very numerous as species, but not
as individuals, always growing sparingly, and sometimes
are extremely rare ; those which are epiphytic cease at
34" S. latitude, and are more abundant in this region than
the tropical. Palmae extend to the same limit. Protea-
cese, myrtaceae, and epacridese, abound in great numbers
in peculiar genera, and intermingled with diosmese,
goodenoviae, myoporinese, stylidese, restiaceae, treman-
dreae, polygaleae, and dilleniaceae, impress very distinc-
tive peculiarities. Cryptogamic plants are not so abun-
dant as usual, owing to the dryness of the climate, the
absence of large trees in many situations, and the deci-
duous bark. A tree-fern, dicksonia antarctica, extends
through the region, even into Van Diemen's Land.

Relations. — It is not a little singular, that identical
species of European plants appear here in greater numbers
than in South Africa, or other intervening regions. Dr.
Brown's experience renders his observations valuable.
" In comparing very generally the flora of the principal
parallel, (between 33" and 35" S. latitude) of Terra Aus-
tralis, with that of South Africa, we find several natural
families characteristic of the Australian vegetation, as
proteaceae, diosmeae, restiaceae, polygaleae, and also
butteneriaceae, if hermannia and mahernia be considered
as part of this order, existing, and in nearly equal abun-
dance, at the Cape of Good Hope ; others are replaced
by analogous families, as epacrideae by ericeae ; and some
tribes, which form a considerable part of the Australian
peculiarities, as dilleniaceae, the leafless acaciae, and
eucalyptus, are [entirely wanting in South Africa. On
the other hand, several of the characteristic South African
orders and extensive genera are nearly or entirely want-
ing in New Holland ; thus, irideae, mesembryanthe-
mum, pelargonium, and oxalis, so abundant at the Cape
of Good Hope, occur very sparingly iu Nuw Holland ,

392 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

where the South Afj-ican genera aloe, stapelia, cliftbr-
tia, penaea, and brunia, do not at all exist. Very few
species are common to both countries, and of these, the
only one which is at the same time peculiar to the southern
hemisphere is osmunda barbara."*

XXII.— THE WEST AUSTRALIA REGION.

Extent.— The tropical features of New Holland are
not fully developed on the north-west coast, which makes
it necessary to extend the limits of this region in this
direction. It will thus occupy the western jjortion of
tlie continent from 123° E. long., and become mingled
with the New South Wales Region on the south coast
in the neighbourhood of the Morrumbidgee, the interior
of the continent being- unknown.

Physical Characters. — It is a feature in New Holland
that the shores are invested by a broad belt of sandy
soil, which gives them a very unprepossessing aspect
to the stranger, and most of all to the settler. This is
succeeded by grassy and thinly-wooded plains. Such
is particularly the character of this region. At a little
distance from the coast is a parallel, but irregular and
broken, range of hills ; and others detached are spread
over the country. Basaltic rocks are not unfrequent,
but that kind of sandstone known as ironstone, chiefly
prevails, and forms the basis of the plains. Limestone
is also not unusual. This surface generally is indif-
ferently supplied with streams.

Climate. — Similar to that of New South Wales, but
not so liable to extremes of temperature or to long
droughts. At Perth the average temperature in Fe-
* Flinder's Voyages, Appendix, Vol. ii.. p. 5S8.

VAN DIEMEN S LAND REGION. 39H

bruary, at four p.m. was 84o, in August 63", and at ten a m.
respectively, 81" and 60°. The mean of these hours
throughout the year are 72° 1 and 69° 5. January,
February, and March, are the months of greatest heat
and aridity.

Flora. — The plants of this coast are almost entirely
distinct from those of the east coast, but with Kino-
George's Sound they are strikingly identical. This pe-
culiarity, however, is chiefly confined to species. The
most charactertstic plants are species of casuarina,
callitris, zamia, exocarpus, xanthorrhoea, and kingia
australis, and nutysia floribunda. Eucalyptus has few
species, and angophora is not knovvn. (Broion in Journal
Geographical Society.) The northern limit of xan-
thorrhoea is at 28" S. lat. The vegetable productions,
then, of this region are sufficiently peculiar, for whilst
it fully retains Australian features, its closer forms are
its own,

Relatigt^s. — South African ferns are more abundant
than in any other portion of the continent, and this is
conspicuous even in its proteaceae. An European plant,
arenaria marina, is met with.

XXIIL— THE VAN DIEMEN'S LAND REGION.

Extent, — The island so called, situated between
40° 42' and 43° 43' S, lat., and having an area of 17,192
square miles.

Physical Characters. — Van Diemen's Land has fewer
ofthose extremes so frequent in the neighbouringcontinent.
The surface is occupied by fertile plains, occasionally
swelling into hill and dale, and sometimes raised into
ranges of inconsiderable elevation, Ben Lomond, to the

394 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

north-west, attains 4,200 feet, and Mount Wellington,
near Hobart Town in the south, about 3,700 feet. In
the vicinity of the rivers are large plains with good soil,
and covered only with an herbaceous vegetation. The
whole island is available, and rarely unfit for cultivation.

Climate. — With our European notions of climate, this
would be considered cold for the latitude. The seasons
are more regular, and the distribution of heat and
moisture more equable, than in New South Wales. The
smaller range of temperature is attributable to its insular
position, and the humidity to the prevalence of southerly
winds.

Flora. — There is a freshness and variety about the
vegetation denied to New Holland. Though possessing
many of its distinctive groups, the species are to a great
extent limited ; its epacrideoe, proteaceae, and myoporineae
have even peculiar genera. Eucalyptus, though with
fewer species, attains here its greatest developement.
Among its trees are podocarpus asplenifolius, dacrydium
taxifolium, exocarpus cupressiformis, carpodontos lucida,
atherosperma moschata, zieria arborescens, tasmannia
australis, t. fragrans, with species of gaultheria, poma-
derris, and fagus. Cryptogamic plants are numerous, and
some are identical with the European. Dicksonia antarc-
tica, an arborescent fern, is met with.

Relations. — The connexions of the vegetation are
widely extended. With the more temperate parts of
Europe there are many genera in common, as stellaria,
linum, viola, clematis, anemone, ranunculus, veronica,
drosera, geranium, polygonum, cardamine, and nastur-
tium. With the South Africa region more particularly,
by pelargonium, elichrysum, and oxalis ; with North
America, by gaultheria and aster ; and with the Malaisia
region, by podocarpus.

NEW ZEALAND REGION. 395

XXIV.— THE NEW ZEALAND REGION.

Extent. — Two islands situated between 34*^ and 48*^
S. lat., and with an area of 62,160 square miles. The
northern is the smaller, but possesses the greatest capabi-
lities, and is called Eaheinomauwe. The southern is
known as T'avai Poenammoo.

Physical Characters. — A lofty range of mountains,
from 12,000 to 14,000 feet high, traverses both islands,
their upper portions covered with eternal snows, and
their lower clothed with noble forests, the trees of which
are equally distinguished for their tall and stately growth,
as for their great girth. The soil of the plains is plentiful
in places, and yields a good return under cultivation.

Climate. — Temperate, but liable to fluctuations.

Flora. — Tropical vegetation still lingers in palms,
arborescent ferns, and epiphytic o;chidace8e ; the latter
cease at 45° S. lat. Areca sapida reaches 34*^ S. lat.
There is a curious mixture of its own peculiar forms with
others common to both near and distant regions, as is
evident in the genera dracsena, forstera, myoporum,
melaleuca, avicennia, weinmannia, tetragonia, dicera,
piraelea, epacris, phormium, knightia, plagianthus, cya-
thea, angiopteris, gleichenia, fuchsia, andromeda, oxalis,
and niesembryanthemum. Palms, tree-ferns, and epiphy-
tic orchidacese all occur farther south than in New
Holland. The kawrie, yielding valuable masts and spars,
is the dammara australis or agathis australis.

Relations. — The most interesting are with the Pata-
gonia Region through fuchsia, mniarum, drymis, acaena,
sisymbrium, and lepidium ; and with the South Africa
Region through gnaphalium, tetragonia, and oxalis.

5

396 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

There are also some other interesting affinities with South
America. Agathis loranthifolia, a near ally of the kawrie,
abounds in the Moluccas.

XXV.— THE SOUTH AFRICA REGION.

Extent.— Southern Africa beyond the tropic; Cape
L'Agulhas, the extreme point, is in 34" 55' S. L.

Physical Characters. — " The surface of this region is
striking and peculiar, presenting three successive mountain
ranges, running parallel to the coast and to each other.
The first, called Lange Kloof, is between 20 and 60 miles
from the ocean, the breadth of the intermediate plain being
greatest in the west. The second chain, called the
Zwaarte Berg, or Black Moimtain, rises at an interval
nearly similar behind the first, is considerably higher and
more rugged, and consists often of double or triple ranges.
Behind, at the distance of 80 or 100 miles, rises the
Nieuweldts Gebirgte, the loftiest range in Southern Africa.
The summits, to a great extent, are covered with snow ;
from which circumstance the eastern and most elevated
part is called the Sneuwberg, or Snowy Mountains, whose
highest pinnacles are not supposed to fall short of 10,000
feet. The plain nearest the sea is fertile, well watered,
richly clothed with grass and trees, and enjoys a mild and
agreeable climate. The plains between the successive
ranges are elevated, and contain a large proportion of the
species of arid desert called karroo. The southern plain
in particular is almost entirely composed of the great
karroo, 300 miles in length and nearly 100 in breadth,
covered with a hard and impenetrable soil, almost unfit for
any vegetation. Along the foot of the Sneuwberg, however.

SOUTH AFRICA REGION. 397

there is a considerable tract, finely watered, and affording
very rich pasturage. Beyond the mountains, the territory
is for some space black and sterile .; but it gradually im-
proves till it opens into the extensive pastoral plain occu-
pied by the Boshuanas. So far as this has been explored
to the northward, it becomes always more fertile, though to
the west there has been observed a desert of very great
aridity. The eastern coast also consists chiefly of a fine
pastoral plain, occupied by the various Caffre tribes, and
broken by some chains of mountains, the direction of which
has been very imperfectly explored." — [Murray s Geo-
graphy.) The most fertile soil is found in the neighbour-
hood of the coasts, along the base of the Snowy Mountains,
and in the vicinity of the rivers. Several rivers and
streams traverse the country, becoming during the rains
much swollen, and shrinking in the long and pamful
droughts to a small size, or to chains of muddy pools.
Sandstone and granite greatly prevail in the mountain
ranges, on which often repose clay-slate and greywache.
" A.S far as is at present known, the whole of the table-land
of Africa to the north of the Orange River is composed of
limestone in horizontal strata, clay-slate, sandstone, and
quartz rock, granite, greenstone, serpentine, and potstone."
— {Jameson in Murray's Geography .) In some places the
soil is very salt.

Climate. — Over such a diversified surface there will be
much variety in the climate. The mean temperature and
range are different in situations in the neighbourhood of
each other, and the eastern coasts are colder than the
western. Mr. Colebrook's observations give the mean of
Cape Town 67" 3, and the extremes 96" and 45", or fifty-
one degrees. The mean of the coldest month is 57", of
the hottest 79", least summer heat 77", and the solar radia-
tion is very considerable. Inland both the mean and

398 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

range are lower ; at Stellenbosch the mean of one year's
observations was 66" 3, range from 87" to 50° ; at Zwart-
land the mean 660 5, range from 85o to 54°. The year is
divided into the cold or rainy season, which lasts from May
to October, and the warm or dry season, from November
to April. From the same we have some facts on the
hygroscopic condition of the atmosphere obtained near
False Bay from December to March. At sunrise the ordi-
nary dryness was 6" or l\ the extreme from 12" to 3°.
The maximum at noon was 23o, the greatest range within
the day 35", mean dryness of the morning T, of the noon
14°, and further minimum dryness scarcely a fourth of the
atmospheric capacity for moisture.

Flora. — This portion of Africa presents a good speci-
men of a particular variety of vegetation, where there is an
intimate relation between the flora and external influencing
circumstances, and a close adaptation of the organs of
plants to the duties required of them. In many respects
this is highly conspicuous ; the leaves are often very
small or minutely divided, and clothed with hairs, or to-
mentose, or lanuginose investments ; many species are
provided with fleshy succulent leaves, which do not part
readily with their juices, and serve as so many magazines
of nourishment, whilst the very numerous bulbous plants
are eminently adapted to a climate which, for a long season,
is extremely arid ; at this time the bulbs retain their
vitality without requiring any nourishment, and are ready
to assume activity on the appearance of the rains. The
want of moisture, equally with low temperature, as seen in
northern regions, would seem productive of a low, stunted,
bushy vegetation, and is also characterised by the frequency
of spinous organs, the disagreeable effects of which are
expressed in the quaint name of wait-a-bit, given to acacia
detinens. The colours of the flowers are usually rich and

SOUTH AFRICA REGION. 399

brilliant, the brightness of the solar rays, assisted by a
clear atmosphere, having developed them in the most per-
fect manner. Pink, yellow, and white flowers greatly pre-
vailj with a rare mixture of those tamer colours seen in
a luxuriant vegetation under a moist atmosphere. Though
the flowers are not conspicuous for their fragrance, this
is frequent in the foliage; we observe this in various
pelargonium cultivated with us, and on the spot in species
of diosma, compositae, and the numerous stapelia, if the
carrion odour of the latter can be so called.

The mention of a beautiful provision of nature must not
be omittedj particularly as it involves a departure from a
general rule. The capsules of several species of mesem-
bryanthemum refuse to open except when moistened by
the rains, lest, opening in a dry season, they should shed
their seeds on an unprepared soil.

The very numerous species which constitute the flora of
South Africa belong, to a considerable extent, to genera
which are peculiar ; and even when it shares its natural
families with other regions, its genera are rarely extended
to them; as in proteacese, leguminosse, irideae, compositae,
rosaceae, and cruciferse. It is only in particular situations
that forest exists, giving shelter to numerous savage buffa-
loes. The largest trees are ilex crocea, curtisia faginea,
cunonia capensis, taxus elongata, laurus teterrima, olea ca-
pensis, tarchonanthus caraphoratus, t. arboreus, brabejum
stellatura, acacia vera, ekebergia capensis, and various pro-
teaceae, gardenia, and royena. We will glance hastily over
the prevailing families and their more peculiar genera.
Proteacece abounds in protea, serrularia, leucospermum,
lorocephalus, spatalla, mimetes, and nivenia ; Legumi-
noscB has liparia, lebeckia, aspalathus, borbonia, les-
sertia, psoralia, podalyria, and schotia; Ericacece, the
very numerous and interesting group of erica, and the far

400 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

smaller genus blaeria; Diosniece prevail extensively in
diosma, agathosma, adenandra, and baryosma; Ascle-
piadecE, the numerous and strange stapelia, with huernia
and gomphocarpus ; Crassulacece, a family with some kin-
dred habits, is represented in crassula, rochea, leptas, and
cotyledon ; FicoidecB, by the various mesembryanthemnm,
with tetragonia and hymenogyne ; PolygalecB, in polygala,
muraltia, and mundia; Cow?/;osi^(y prevail extensively, and
many are characterized by that peculiar texture of the
flower belonging to everlastings. Most of the follcwing
genera are peculiar : chrysocoma, arctotis, othonna, osteo-
spermum, tarchonanthus, sphnegyne, erichrysum, cacalia,
pteronia, berckleya, and gazania; OrclddacecE cannot be
supposed to be abundant ; disa and satyrium find conve-
nient localities on the Table Mountain, and some of them
are scarce; Iridece abound in ixia, gladiolus, tritonia,
watsonia, hesperantha, sparaxis, babiana, and trichonema ;
Amaryllidece equally so in hsemanthus, strumaria, bruns-
vigia, nerine, cyrtanthus, and gethyllis. Tliere are yet
several important genera requiring notice: euphorbia has
a group of species which simulate the habit of cacteae, and
supply their place ; aloe has a great variety of species, and
others are frequent, in oxalis, phyllica, restio, struthiola,
clifFortia, roella, hypoxis, eucomis, massonia, lachenalia,
and streletzia. Heliophila, a cruciferous genus, is monomic.
Lobelia, cestrum, lyceum, chironia, and others prevail.
Two famiUes also claim to be regarded as monomic, — bru-
niaceec and penseaceae. Climbing plants are uncommon, as
are also cryptogamic. Some ferns are found on the sides of
the Table Mountain, the particular flora of which has
other evidences of a moister atmosphere. The mass of the
vegetation is to a great extent confined to the colony, and
several of its more peculiar groups, ericacese, proteaceae,
diosmeae, and restiaceac, do not appear on the arid karroo,

THE MOZAMBIQUE REGION. 401

which is occupied by gregarious species of lyceum, acacia,
euphorbia, and mesembryanthemum. Some have a very
limited range, and the species of stapelia abound more
particularly on the arid sands of the west coast.

Relations. — The various relations of a region so com-
plete as that of South Africa must be extremely interesting;
and it seems probable that so rich a vegetation, with a liberal
hand, gives more representatives to other regions than it
receives from them. Passing over a more extensive view
of its relations, we will confine our notice to groups having
their chief existence elsewhere. A few of the genera of
Europe, North America, and Siberia, have species here ;
the presence also of salix, bryonia, and viola, recalls a dif-
ferent latitude and climate. In common with the north-
eastern portion of Africa, it has acacia vera, cucumis colo-
cynthis, and a zizyphus; and has an affinity with New Hol-
land in metrosideros angustifolia. Several introduced
plants are becoming diffused, as solanum nigrum, sonchus
oleraceus, and polygonum persicaria.

XXVI.— THE MOZAMBIQUE REGION.

Extent. — That portion of the east coast of Africa be-
tween 10" N. lat. and the south tropic in 23" 28' has been
so little visited, that nothing is known of its vegetation, ex-
cept that it is clothed with rich forests, and has a climate
in all respects tropical.

Physical Characters. — Spacious plains abound near
the coast, traversed by considerable rivers, and liable to
partial submersion.

Climate. — Tropical, moist, and frequently unhealthy,
but well suited to the growth of the nutmeg, cinnamon,

VOL. II. D D

402 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

and similar productions of a tropical climate in its
excess.

Flora. — Further than that it abounds in luxuriant forest,
and supplies us with Columba-root and a few other articles
of commerce, little is known concerning it, and the native
rulers are too jealous of foreigners to permit anj' examina-
tion of the interior of the country.

Relations. — It differs so entirely from the regions to
the north and south, that the propriety of its separation
from them seems undoubted.

XXVII.— THE MADAGASCAR REGION.

Extent. — The large and fruitful island of Madagascar,
situated between 12" and 26" S. lat, and the far smaller
islands of Bourbon, Mauritius, and the Sechelles.

Physical Characters. — In Madagascar, extensive fer-
tile plains extend from the shores towards a lofty range of
mountains in the interior. The soil is represented as rich
and highly productive, and extensive marshy districts are
occupied as rice-fields.

Climate. — Tropical, moist, and in some parts of Mada-
gascar extremely fatal to human beings.

Flora. — Just enough of the productions of Madagascar
are known to assure us they are peculiar, and to stimulate
research. The vegetation is luxuriant, and varied with
the usual aspect of the tropics. The natural family of
chlenaceoe is confined to it ; areanthes and other orchidaceae
abound. Tanghinia veneniflua, yielding a most energetic
poison, and hydrogeton fenestralis, remarkable for the
structure of its leaves, are both natives. Several species of
the small family of homalinese are found in the islands, and
also the myrtaceous genus jossinia.

THE WEST AFRICA REGION. 403

The Mauritius has rather an extensive and tolerably
well-known flora, and with a fair proportion of peculiar
species. Danais and chasalia are confined to it.

Bourbon closely resembles the Mauritius.

The Sechelles are chiefly remarkable for a double-
fruited variety of cocos nucifera, which is produced on three
of the islands.

Relations. — From its position, Madagascar would seem
to belong to Africa, but such observations as have been in-
stituted on its flora and that of the neighbouring coast,
point out decidedly stronger affinities with India. Ed-
wardsia is common both to New Zealand and the Mau-
ritius.

XXVIII.— THE WEST AFRICA REGION.

Extent. — A considerable tract of country, inhabited by
many populous nations, situated between the Great Sa-
hara or central desert of Africa and the Atlantic Ocean,
and Cape Blanco, in 20° 35, N. lat., and 23*^ 28, S. lat, or
the south tropic.

Physical Characters. — In the neighbourhood of the
coast the surface is composed chiefly of level plains, broken
occasionally by ranges of low hills, and with chains of lofty
mountains in the background, of primitive formation. Much
of the soil is alluvial, and surprisingly productive ; and the
banks of the numerous rivers are low, and during a part of
the year extensively overflowed by the rising of the waters.
At the mouth of some of the rivers are large salt-water
marshes, covered by mangrove and other congenial plants.
But salt, so abundant in other parts of Africa, is here in
the interior so scarce as to be greatly prized.

D D 2

404 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

Climate, — Tropical, and generally moist; but in the
vicinity of the desert partaking of its aridity.

Flora. — Over this extensive surface there is little
variety in the vegetation ; the same forms are continually
repeated, and there is a scarcity of some of those elsewhere
so abundant in the tropics. Palmse have few species ;
elais guineensis, phoenix spinosa, raphia vinifera, and the
cocoa-nut, are the chief. Musacese, scitaminese, piperaceae,
are scarce. Yet there is a denseness and luxuriance in the
vegetation hardly surpassed in any other part of the
world. The forest is extensive and magnificent, the trees
attaining a large size ; and on the banks of the rivers
which have been navigated some have been seen of enor-
mous dimensions. Cinchonacese, leguminosse, and mal-
vaceae abound; ficus, cassia, acacia, and euphorbia have
many species. Some of the more conspicuous belong to
bombax, adansonia, sterculia, cadaba, parkia, hofiandia,
melhania, pentadesma, crataeva, capparis, grewia, ptero-
carpus, psychotria, bignonia, avicennia, anona, and panda-
nus candelabrum.

The Cope de Verd Islands have, perhaps, a less varied
and vigorous vegetation than the coast.

St. Helena, situated in 16" S. lat., has the character of a
very poor flora, but of which the members are nearly alto-
gether peculiar. Of 61 species, two or three only have
been noticed elsewhere. Ferns, grasses, corapositae, and
the cocoa-nut and date-palm, are met with, but the climate
is ungenial, and the sugar-cane scarcely thrives. The
peak of Diana is elevated 2,692 feet.

Ascension Island is situated in 7° S. lat. The Green
Mountain attains 2,818 feet. Some of the caves are ver-
dant with ferns. Grasses are in proportion numerous, and
portulacca oleracea, euphorbia origanoides, asclepias curas-
savica, convolvulus arenarius, and carex pedunculata, over-
run the plains.

THE CANARY ISLANDS REGION. 405

Relations. — Between the tropical portions of Asia,
Africa, and America, many of the natural families are
shared in common ; thus we see combretacese, raeliaceae,
ochnacese, sapindacese, terebintaceae, anonacese, sapotese,
and potaliacese, all essentially tropical groups, freely repre-
sented in each. Frequently the genera are in common,
but beyond this the relations are feeble. Still some exten-
sive families are only sparingly represented, as passiflorese,
melastomacese, myrtaceae, and loranthacese. It is probable
that when the vegetation of the base and flanks of the
Cameroon Mountains shall be known, they will require a
separate consideration. Their supposed elevation is 13,000
feet.

XXIX.— THE CANARY ISLANDS REGION.

Extent. — These islands are in the same parallel at the
Great Sahara, being situated off* that part of the African
coast where that desert meets the ocean, and are thus situ-
ated, in a geographical position, between the Barbary Re-
gion and the West Africa Region. In addition to the
islands more properly known as the Canaries, the region
includes the fertile island of Madeira, with the almost
desert Porto Santo and the Dezertos, and the Azores.

Physical Characters. — The islands of these groups may
be regarded as so many mountains rising above the ocean to
considerable elevations. Teneriffe attains 12,176 feet, and
the highest part of Madeira, 6,233 feet. Their plains and
valleys abound in a fertile soil, the productiveness of which
is further insured by its volcanic origin, insular position,
copious supply of moisture, and warm atmosphere. In
some parts lava prevails so completely as to exclude vege-

406 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

tation, and those islands with an aspect towards the coast
of Africa are materially affected by its arid breezes.

Climate. — The temperature is warm and even, but
some parts are subject to considerable depression from
sudden gusts, which sweep the cold air from the summits.
The mean of Funchal, Madeira, is 65°, number of rainy
days V3, and fall of rain 31 inches. At Santa Cruz, Te-
nerifFe, the mean is 71°. The temperature given for the
alpine regions of vegetation are calculated ; those used by
Spix and Von Martius are assumed from the calculations
of Howard ; we therefore pass them over till we possess
strictly observed data.

Flora. — This must be regarded as an alpine region, and
the different portions of its flora have been described by
Humboldt, Von Buck, Von Martius, and Kuhl. There is,
however, some discrepancy between their statements ; for
not only are the alpine regions of Teneriffe made to differ
from those of Madeira, but also from the rest of the
Canaries. Ii^ attempting to reduce them to mutual con-
sistency we shall follow out the views we have previously
expressed on this subject.*

Teneriffe has been ably examined by Humboldt, and his
regions are nearly natural.

1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 1,800
feet. It is distinguished by the presence of a few tropical
forms; dracsena draco, phoenix dactylifera, chamaerops hu-
milis, musa paradisaica, m. sapientum, arborescent euphor-
bias, and some species of mesembryanthemum from Africa,
meet species of cactus from America.

2. The Region of the Woods extends to 7,200 feet.
These woods are lofty and extensive, and comprise laurus
indica, 1. ftrtens, 1. nobilis, rhamnus glandulosa, erica

* London Jouii.al of Botany for March, 1842.

THE CANARY ISLANDS REGION. 407

arborea, erica texo, quercus canariensis. Ferns are nume-
rous. A convenient subdivision may be established, since
the pines occupy only the upper part of this region for the
breadth of 25,000 feet; thus constituting — 1, the sub-
region of laurels to 5,400 feet; 2, the sub-region of pines to
7,200 feet.

3. The Region of Shrubs. — Spartium nubigenum
abounds, and not much else, for the surface is chiefly vol-
canic ashes.

4. The Region of Grasses. — Scrophularia glabrata, viola
cheiranthifolia, and the cruciferous plants, cheiranthus
longifolius, c. frutescens, c. scoparius, erysimum bicorne,
crambe strigosa, c. laevigata, are met with.

5. The Region of Cryptogamic Plants. — It contains only
urceolaria and other lichens.

Madeira, as the name implies, was formerly covered with
woods, but the early cultivation of the sugar-cane, and sub-
sequently of the vine, and still more recently the adoption
of grazing, has produced a total change in the original fea-
tures of the vegetation.

1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 2,000
feet. The agave, plantain, date, pomegranate, and fig all
thrive well. Of sixty species found here, 36 are common
to the north of Europe, 17 to southern Europe and northern
Africa, and 7 peculiar to the Canary Region. Among them
is scarcely a genus with more than one species.

2. The Region of Woods extends to 3,000 feet. The
trees are not numerous; castanea vesca, pinus canariensis,
laurus fastens, 1. indica, clethra arborea. In thirty-two
species, eight only are European, the remainder being pe-
culiar. Here, therefore, the flora is more characteristic,
and introduced plants have not attained this elevation.

3. The Region of Shrubs extends to the loftiest part of
the island. Spartium scoparium, eytisus divaricatus, erica

408 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION,

scoparia, and vaccinium padifoliurn, abound. Grasses, be-
longing to cynosurus, aira, and agrostis, begin to appear on
the higher stations.

In Madeira succulent plants are frequent ; the trees have
coriaceous leaves, and the northern families of amentaceae,
saxifragese, and caryophyllese, are uncommon, as are the
tropical families of euphorbiaceae and malvaceae. Of com-
positae, the tribe of corymbiferae is scarce, but cichoracese
abundant.

The Azores are situated something to the north of the
other islands. Like them they are volcanic, with bold
scenery, scarped rocks, deep ravines, and a general elevation
of the surface from 2,000 to 5,000 feet. The indigenous
flora is scanty, but the climate is good, and highly suited to
the growth of tropical and such other fruits as have been
introduced. From their supposed comparatively recent
origin, the early history and subsequent diffusion of vegeta-
tion might be satisfactorily studied here.

Relations. — In such a region a considerable change
must have been produced by the extinction of native plants?
and the introduction of others. Its affinities are more
copious with Europe than south Africa. The species of
cactus are regarded as instances of migration from America,
and dracaena draco is supposed to have come originally from
India. Of 62 plants collected at Teneriffe in Kotzebue's
first voyage, SO were peculiar to our region, 30 common
with Europe, and 2 with Africa. Von Buch mentions 533
species as belonging to the Canaries, of which he considers
162 as introduced.

THE BARBARY REGION. 409

XXX.— THE BARBARY REGION.

Extent. — The northern part of Africa, embracing the
states of Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli, is separated
by the Great Sahara from the rest of the continent, and to
the west is beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, whilst to
the east it extends nearly to the delta of the Nile. The
Atlas range of mountains forms an important portion of this
region ; and, when better known, will most probably con-
tain its greatest peculiarities. There are also some other
mountains of considerable elevation.

Physical Characters. — With much dry and barren
land, there are also extensive districts of great fertility.
The soil is generally sandy, but productive when supplied
freely with moisture; and the neighbourhood of the Atlas
mountains is indicated as possessing much that is rich and
fertile. From the elevated lands numerous streams descend
to the plains ; those towards the north finding an outlet
in the Mediterranean Sea, whilst those falling to the south
are chiefly lost in the thirsty sands of the desert. The
highest ascertained part of the Atlas range is 11,400 feet,
is in the vicinity of Morocco, and clothed with perpetual
snow. Salt marshes and lakes, and saline soils, are all of
frequent occurrence.

Climate. — The heat is great, but not so oppressive as in
Egypt or Arabia, in the same latitude. At Algiers the
mean of the year is 70°, of the summer 80°2, and of the
winter 61°4. Vegetation is in its greatest vigiour in
autumn, after the rains. It is then that a crowd of herba-
ceous plants hasten to spread abroad their beauty, retiring
rapidly as the moisture disappears ; leaving a bushy vegeta-
tion to struggle with the parching atmosphere of the dry
months.

410 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

Flora. — Only a partial examination has been made, and
our chief acquaintance with the vegetation is due to M.
Defontaines. It is owing to this that a very powerful con-
nexion has been traced with the vegetable productions on
the northern shores of the Mediterranean, When our
knowledge of the interior is more complete, a greater pro-
portion of peculiar forms will undoubtedly be discovered ;
at least such is a fair inference from what is observed else-
where. Upwards of 2,000 species are known, and it has
been remarked that, though a great number are peculiar,
they belong to genera shared with Europe. In 344 woody
kinds, about a hundred are peculiar. Those groups of
plants which prefer a dry warm atmosphere, such as legu-
minosae, malvaceae, labiatse, solaneae, caryophylleae, and
certain compositse, prevail. Among characterising genera
may be mentioned rhus, zizyphus, vitex, viburnum, dios-
pyros, pistacia, celtis, tamarix, juniperus, thuja, olea, adonis,
verbascum, smilax, cercis, cistus, nerium, and agave.
Pinus halepensis grows in large forests, and other species
are frequent ; a large surface is occupied by phoenix
dactylifera. On the Atlas range are many quercus, and
fagus, alnus, salix, with many herbaceous genera common
to Europe.

Relations. — We separate this from the Nile region, on
account of its alpine vegetation ; and from the European
regions, though undoubtedly some affinities are great, since
the same combination of alpine and lowland vegetation
does not occur in any of them. The alpine features more
closely coincide with the Pyrenees, whilst those of the plains
recall Italy and the south-east of Europe.

THE NILE REGION. 411

XXXL— THE NILE REGION.

Extent. — The whole portion of country traversed by
the Nile and its tributary branches. Towards its source
the elevation of the surface compensates for the lower lati-
tude, producing a milder climate and corresponding vege-
tation. It thus embraces a broad belt of country between
the Red Sea and the Great Sahara, by which its isolation
from other botanical regions is rendered nearly complete.

Physical Characters. — There is much diversity in the
surface. The valley of Lower Egypt presents an uniform
plain, almost without a hill, and subject to the periodical
inundations of the Nile. Gradually a chain of bare and
rugged mountains converge towards the river, leaving the
intervening valley with only the breadth of a few miles.
Upper Egypt assumes a bolder character ; the banks of the
Nile become rocky, and the inundations far less general.
In Nubia, for this reason, the river is sometimes unap-
proachable, and a laboured irrigation is practised. Abys-
sinia is traversed by piles of mountain masses of extreme
barrenness, and with intervening valleys, whose rich and
productive soil is some compensation for their sterility.
There is here a general elevation of the surface, and some
of the mountains attain a great height. Egypt has been
justly considered a granary with almost an unfailing supply;
a productiveness which is dependent more on the overflow-
ings of the Nile, than on any inherent richness of its some-
what sandy soil.

Climate. — Few regions would, perhaps, supply us with
more interesting sources of the adaptation of the vegetation
to the climate, if we were furnished with the necessary
information. The temperature is warm ; that of Lower
Egypt particularly so, the mean summer heat of Cairo

412 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

being 92°. Rain is scarce ; the dews, however, are heavy.
Rain is more frequent about the Delta, and in the vicinity
of the coast, than elsewhere. Thunder and lightning are
even more uncommon than rain. The seasons are not very
strongly marked, and run imperceptibly and rapidly into
each other. Summer commences in June, and lasts till
September. Autumn succeeds. The cold season begins
in December, and lasts two months ; and in February
spring makes its appearance. Harvest succeeds in seven
or eight weeks to the sowing ; and the trees lose their
leaves in the cold seasons, and are rapidly replaced by new.
The inundations of the Nile, to which Egypt owes its vast
fertility, are due to the autumnal rains of Abyssinia.
Their effects are visible in the first week of July, when the
river begins to swell; and, continuing to increase, has
reached half its augmentation in August, and its greatest
in the latter days of September. For two weeks it con-
tinues stationary, till on the 10 th of November it has fallen
one-half, and afterwards continues to decrease till the 16th
of May, when it has reached its lowest.

Flora. — For three months the vegetation of Egypt is
bathed in the overflowing waters of the Nile. As these
subside a rapid vegetation ensues, the period of fructifica-
tion is hastened and has passed away, and during the
remainder of the year a parching aridity prevails. The
superior luxuriance belonging to the former would be
greatly misplaced in the latter ; and, regarding the charac-
ter of the vegetation, that particular variety has been dis-
pensed to it which is congenial to the dry seasons, and will
survive the inundation. It is not be expected that the
flora will be numerous ; and the aspect of the country is
uniform and tame, being only relieved by some accidental
trees of mimosa, zizyphus, phoenix'dactyhfera, and cucifera
thebaica. Abyssinia is more fruitful, and contains many

THE NILE REC4I0N. 413

spots of rich variety, and patches of fine forest. In accord-
ance with these views, succulent plants are common ; the
leaves are those suited to a dry atmosphere, and spinous
organs are much developed. It has been deemed singular
that fungi should be entirely wanting in a soil for a certain
period saturated with moisture, and apparently suited to
their ephemeral existence. In some barren spots, beyond
the reach of the inundation, certain plants have established
themselves, and drag on a starved and stunted existence.
The valley of Lower Egypt is not likely to present a very
perfect specimen of an indigenous flora, having been under
the closest cultivation for many ages ; and it is probable
that its alluvial soil has been the gradual deposit of the
Nile, and that it has received its vegetation from Abyssinia
and elsewhere. We shall, therefore, direct our attention
chiefly to the former.

Some insight into the flora of Abyssinia has been ob-
tained, particularly by Salt and Caillaud, who made collec-
tions. Many of its species are found to be peculiar, and
to bear a larger proportion to the entire vegetation.
Leguminosse are very abundant through acacia, cassia,
mimosa, pterolobium, erythrina, alhagi, desmanthus, and
bauhinia. Other conspicuous genera are euphorbia, avi-
cennia, juniperus, tamarix, zygophyllum, fagonia, polym-
nia, osrua, brucea, balsamodendron, cordia, and pistacia.
Coffea arabica is indigenous, and fresnella fontanesii forms
thick groves on some of the hills. Gramineae are nume-
rous, and several kinds of holcus, sorghum, poa, and
andropogon, are cultivated. In those frequent situations,
where neutral salts are mixed with the soil, are salsola,
saUcornia, traganum, and calligonum. The bed of the
Nile is often closely set with sedges and flags. Papyrus
antiquorum is equally found here and in the lakes of Abys-
sinia. Nelumbium speciosum has disappeared ; yet still

414 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

the rivers of India and China are enlivened by its fine red
flowers. The white-flowered nymphaea lotus abounds; and
n. caerulea is sometimes seen. Arum colocasia is cultivated
for food.

The vast sea of land of the Great Sahara is an effectual
barrier to the extension of the flora of this region, in the
direction over which it prevails. It consists of a low fiat
plain, with the surface covered with white and grey quartz,
and becoming more shingly towards the east, or in the
direction of the prevailing wind. It is towards its eastern
part that the oases chiefly exist, affording a grateful rest-
ing-place to the traveller, occupied by a rather numerous
population, and having a lively vegetation. The dreari-
ness of the surrounding waste is here replaced by groves
of date-palm. Acacia vera and other species shade the
gushing streams, and tufts of grasses vary the surface.

Relations. — Many of the plants frequent on the shores
of the Mediterranean appear in Lower Egypt ; and some
of those of Arabia cross the Red Sea to Nubia and Abys-
sinia. The most interesting relation, however, is with the
South Africa Region through several species of mesembry-
anthemum, pelargonium abyssinicum, protea abyssinica,
hagenia abyssinica, brunia ciliata, albuca abyssinica, and
geissorhiza abyssinica. Adansonia digitata of the west
coast re-appears, and the trunk is applied to entombing the
dead. A tropical character is displayed in some of the
genera enumerated, and in musa ensete. Rosa abyssinica
occurs in the valleys of that country.

XXXII. THE ASIA MINOR REGION.

Extent. — Let us suppose ourselves stationed at the
head of the Persian Gulf, and then project lines to the

10

THE ASIA MINOR REGION. 415

west and north in the direction of the latitude and longi-
tude. These, with the Caspian Sea, the range of Caucasus,
the Black Sea, and the Mediterranean, will enclose an in-
teresting portion of country, watered by the Euphrates and
other considerable rivers, and comprising Syria, Palestine,
the rich provinces of Turkey in Asia, Bagdad, and a portion
of Persia.

Physical Characters. — Tne aspect and general features
are variable. In some places it would be difficult to exceed
the dreary barrenness and unproductive nature of the sur«
face, resisting with complete success any invasion from
vegetation. There are, however, others, and they are
numerous, where the verdure and fertility are of the most
agreeable kind. In Asia Minor, between the ranges of hills,
are often beautiful and extensive plains in full cultivation,
and dotted by the villages of the inhabitants ; the groups of
cypress and the singular burying-grounds pointing out
those of the Turks, whilst cultivation and its attendants indi-
cate those of the more thrifty Albanians. These plains are
always well watered by streams originating in the surround-
ing mountains, and their benefits are greatly extended by
irrigation, which from the aridity of the soil seems indis-
pensable.

Climate. — This is generally regarded as warm, but
some parts, as Bagdad, are distinguished for their great
heat, and the northern winds produce a rapid and impor-
tant depression of temperature. The summer months are
generally warm and very dry, and the atmosphere is serene
and transparent. Rain is even scarce in some places.

Flora. — The vegetation of Asia Minor is eminently
adapted to delight the traveller. He is not buried in a
vast dark forest, where the view is most circumscribed, and
without objects to engage attention. Forest trees are
grouped together in the valleys and mountain sides, whilst

416 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

occasional open spaces are in the undisturbed possession of
piles of rocks,' or more profitably occupied in agriculture.
Sometimes a waving line of brighter green points out the
course of a river or mountain stream. The foliage is gene-
rally distinguished for its evergreen character, the dark
sombre shade of its colour, and the leathery consistence of
the leaves. The trees most prominent are quercus infec-
toria, platanus orientalis, pistaoia terebinthus, p. lentiscus,
and other species of these genera, pinus halepensis, abies
orientalis, cupressus sempervirens, juniperus sabina, cera-
tonia siliqua, juglans regia, liquidambar imberbe, and others
of acer, celtis, fraxinus, and celsia. Among the smaller
vegetation, labiatae are numerous, and have their chief
station here. The nearly allied family scrophularinese is
also freely represented, and cucurbitacese and asphodeleae
are conspicuous for their numbers. In some parts are ex-
tensive tracts producing a great multitude of individuals of
tamarix, acacia, glycirrhiza, and hedysarum alhagi. And
in others of even a less favourable character are met with
chenopodium, ruta, rumex, artemisia, centaurea, amaran-
tus, cucumis, lyceum, solanum, mesembryanthemum, and
asclepias syriaca ; which last, though a pretty plant, has
an extensive range, and is every where a weed. The vege-
tation of Mount Caucasus is particularly rich and fasci-
nating, but it has a very European character.

Relations. — I regard this region as separable from the
Danube Region, with which it has much in common, in the
different aspects of the vegetation, and in the partial ces-
sation, sometimes nearly complete, of several genera as
populus, spiraea, Crataegus, campanula, rhamnus, viola, &c-,
and of the group of umbelliferae. With the China Region
it has many interesting relations, and prunus armenaica,
which is represented as covering the sides of Caucasus, is
again seen in China ; and with North America there are

THE ARABIA REGION. 417

several through sesculus, juglans, and liquidambar. Ulmus
campestris is supposed to have been introduced to Pales-
tine by the Crusaders.

XXXIII.— THE ARABIA REGION.

Extent. — The Arabian peninsula, and separated from
the adjoining region by a line extending due west from the
head of the Persian Gulf to the Mediterranean sea.

Physical Characters. — Arabia is little else than an
extensive desert clothed with straggling thorny shrubs, and
having some spots of redeeming fertility. Rocky cheerless
mountains traverse it, occasionally sheltering within them
small fertile valleys, called Wadis. About Yemen, the
country is superior, and vegetation has some luxuriance,
and is remarkable for its fragrant qualities.

Climate. — An excessive clearness and transparency pre-
vail in the atmosphere from the scarcity of moisture. The
skies are almost always cloudless ; from June to September
showers occasionally fall, but chiefly about Yemen or Arabia
Felix. Hot winds, coming from Africa, sometimes sweep
its western shores.

Flora. — Arabia, famed for its spices, derives its repu-
tation more probably from being a country of transit, than
as their source. Still it has contributed its share, and even
the general character of the shrubs is aroiuatic. Moving
eastward, we meet in this region several new forms, re-
minding us strongly of Asiatic vegetation. Where forest
exists, numerous species of ficus enter largely into it,
mingled with sterculia platinifolia, tomex glabra, grewia,
populifera, balsamodendron gileadense, b. opobalsamum,
b. kataf, b. kafal, maerua uniflora, m. racemosa, cynau-

VOL. II. E E

418 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

chum arboreum, celastrus edulis, c. parviflora, keura odori-
fera, and pandanus odoratissimus. Little woods of arbo-
rescent euphorbia occur. Cryptogamic plants, graminese,
and cyperacese, are all scarce. Some of the bulbous plants
of South Africa make their appearance, cucurbitacese are
not uncommon, and succulent plants are also frequent.
CofFea arabica is regarded as not indigenous, and the testi-
mony of the Arabians themselves refers its origin to Abys-
sinia. Acacia arabica is native, and some active medicines
are produced, as senna, aloes, myrrh, and olibanum.

Socotra is a mountainous island, consisting of granite,
of indifferent fertility, nearly bare of trees, and distinguished
for its aloes, dates, and dragon's blood.

Relations. — Its tropical forms are chiefly from India,
but the most interesting affinities are with the South Africa
Region through aloe, stapelia, mesembryanthemum, and
hsemanthus. Several species are shared in common with
the Nile Region.

XXXIV— THE TARTARY REGION.

Extent. — A broad irregular space, of peculiar aspect
and fluctuating fertility, occupies the centre of Asia be-
tween the Altai and Himma-leh chains of mountains, in-
cluding the states of Tartary, Thibet, and portions of
Persia and Cabul.

Physical Characters. — Situated as it is between stu-
pendous mountain chains, the greater part of the surface
presents a considerable, but varying elevation, and is
further diversified by being traversed by others of inferior
grandeur. Aridity chiefly prevails, much of the soil being
very sandy ; large portions are sometimes so salt as not
to yield the slightest vegetation, and the wind is said to

THE SIBERIA REGION. 419

drive it on the bushes and cover them as with a hoar frost.
Partial fertility is imparted by the streams, and more par-
ticularly by the rivulets occasioned by the rains.

Climate. — Extremes characterize the seasons; the
summers are burning and arid, and the winters severe and
nipping.

Flora. — Wherever there is shelter and some moisture,
trees from the Asia Minor Region are met with, as pistacia
lentiscus, p. terebinthus, pinus pinea, morus nigra, olea
europea, and some oaks. Species of artemisia spread in
crowds, impregnating the atmosphere with their peculiar
aroma, and giving a bluish green tint to the steppes.
Other characteristic species are spartium junceum, s. spi-
nosum, statiee tartarica, calligonum polygonoides, and
others of selinum, centaurea, tamarix, salvia, verberis,
ruta, lyceum, solanum, capparis, asclepias, astragalus,
hedysarum, spiraea, rumex, and lithospermum. The fruits
are those of warm temperate latitudes, and millet, barley,
sorghum, amarantus, and paspalum are cultivated.

Relations. — The flora is poor, and so indifferently
known, that this portion of its history remains in obscurity.
The proportion of spinous plants is unusually great.

XXXV.— THE SIBERIA REGION.

Extent. — A continuous barrier, enclosing the vast
steppes of Siberia, is formed by the Ural and Altai moun-
tains, which forms its western and southern borders, and
terminates at the sea of Okotsk in 55° north latitude.
The steppes of Ischin, a portion of Tartary, is thus in-
closed, and the region is limited to the north by the extent
of the growth of trees somewhere about 65" north latitude.

E E 2

420 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

The whole of the Altai range is comprehended, and con-
stitutes an important portion.

Physical Characters. — The surface within the moun-
tain ranges presents an extensive level plain, traversed by
numerous large rivers with a general course to the Arctic
Ocean, and therefore with an inclination towards the
north The aspect and nature of the surface varies ; to-
wards the north it is dreary and usually frozen ; more to
the south there are extensive districts of rich dark soil,
and in the vicinity of the rivers are fine alluvial tracts.
Small lakes and marshy patches abound, with their peculiar
vegetation, and saline substances are occasionally largely
mixed with the soil. The highest parts of the Altai range
do not attain any considerable height.

Climate. — Siberia is not so bleak and inhospitable as
has been generally represented, though, compared with
similar parallels in Europe, or even in Amerca, it must
still be called inclement. Over much the soil is frozen
even to June, but where the inhabitants can be drawn
from the chase of the fur animals to the less exciting pur-
suits of agriculture, large and profitable crops of the
northern cerealia are produced. The variety and beauty,
with the occasional richness of the vegetation, is an un-
questionable proof that the climate is not always severe.

Flora. — The clothing of vegetation which invests the
surface, varies in different situations. In some are thick
forests, in others extensive marshes ; large tracts are some-
times covered with saline plants, or lastly, a luxuriant and
pleasing vegetation prevails. The lorest chiefly follows
the direction of the rivers, and the pine prevails.
Among the herbaceous vegetation, perennials are by far
the most abundant, and though numerous species are iden-
tical with European, a great many are peculiar, and some
still new to science. Nowhere, perhaps, do herbaceous

TflE SIBERIA REGION. 421

plants SO truly luxuriate as in these latitudes, where they
are in unrestricted possession of the rich soil. Their
short existence through the summer month-; is rompensnted
by a vigorous growth and obtrusive beauty. The pre-
dominating families are ranunculacese, cruciferse, umbelli-
feree, leguminosfB, saxifragese, and earyophyllese. As the
seasons advance, labiatse, scrophularinese, and boragineae,
contribute important members ; whilst liliacese and irideae
are conspicuous among the spring vegetation. The indi-
viduality of the flora depends almost entirely on species,
for the genera are extremely similar to those of Europe,
and though the features of the vegetation are different, a
catalogue would appear to show a close resembance. A
few may be mentioned as to some extent distinctive, and
which have usually several species ; astragalus, hedysarum,
caragana, pedicularis, pceonia, zygophyllum, phlomis,
ephedra, and robinia. Ceratocarpus arenaria and diotis
ceratoides are represented as covering large tracts ; whilst
the saline plants belong chiefly to polycnemum, atriplex,
chenopodium, frankenia, tamarix, nitraria, and salicornia.

Pallas and Ledebour are almost our only authorities for
Siberian vegetation. The latter has examined somewhat
closely the flora of the Altai Mountains between 47° and
54° north latitude, and 73° and 87° east longitude. The
influence of aspect was found to be important in favour of
the south ; from various observations, the limit of per-
petual snow seems as high as 7,350 feet ; in some places
corn grew at 4,400 feet, and here also was the limit of habi-
tations. At 4,900 feet the vegetation most resembles that of
Europe. The highest limit of trees is 7,200 feet ; pinus cem-
bra, with a south aspect, attains 7,200 feet, and with a north
aspect, 5,300 feet. Betula alba reaches 5,850 feet, and pinus
siberica and abies communis grow together to the height of
5,800 feet, where they both cease. Ledebour mentions two

4J-: THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

peculiarities in the vegetation ; the nearly total absence of
hard-wooded trees, such as those furnished by quercus, fagus,
acer, tilia, carpinus, aud fraxinus; and that many of the fami-
lies which have numerous species are represented by few
genera; thus, saussurea, serratula, and artemisia in compo-
sitae, zygophyllum in rutacese, and astragalus, oxytropis,
and phaca in leguminosse monopolize the far greater part
of the species in their respective families.

Relations. —When we reflect how much the continuity
of the land has diffused the animal and vegetable produc-
tions of the northern part of Europe, Asia, and America,
the Siberia Region must be allowed to have retained its
entireness with great success. At the southern limits of
the Altai range such a change occurs in the climate and
physical characters as to be incompatible with a vegetation
like that of Siberia. Towards Bering's Straits, though the
interval is small, the difference between the two coasts is
as marked as can be expected between neighbouring re-
gions. Kamtschatka has received no important accessions
from America, though the flora of the latter is represented
in rhododendron, robinia, erigeron, claytonia, and trillium.
This distinction is less evident on its west side, where the
plants of Europe and Siberia intermingle. Through rheum
and poeonia it claims an alliance with the more southern
floral regions of Asia.

XXXVI.— THE JAPAN REGION.

Extent. — Balbi, in his Geographie, has indicated a
Sinico-Japanese Region, but the lofty volcanic mountains,
insular position, and rough climate of Japan, would seem
to point to a peculiar vegetation, and one with predominat-
ing alpine features. The foundation of this region con-

THE JAPAN REGION. 423

sists of Niphon and Jesso, with the other islands known
collectively as Japan. It also includes the long island of
Saghalien, and a portion of the main of peculiar aspect
and nearly covered with forest, situated between 55'^ north
latitude and the river Hoang-ho in China. The penin-
sula of Correa is thus embraced, and the northern part of
China, in which is situated the capital Peking, but a tract
of country of great aridity and barrenness.

Physical Characters. — The aspect of the Japanese
Islands is bold and rugged, and the mountains are ele-
vated far above the line of perpetual snow. The con-
nental portion, except to the south, is traversed by moun-
tain chains.

Climate. — Severe for the latitude and prone to ex-
tremes. At Nangasaki, in 32" 45 north latitude, observa-
tions give the mean temperature as 68", and the range in
the year from upwards of a hundred degrees to below the
freezing point.

Flora. — It is but indifferently known ; the mass of the
vegetation is temperate, but singularly mixed with tropical
forms. Raphis flabelliformis and cycas revoluta mingle
with species of acer, quercus, thuja, pinus, and juniperus.
Thunberg collected near Naugasaki 755 phsenogamous
plants, which certainly bespeaks a flora rich in forms. Its
bizarre character will be visible in pinus, abies, larix, tilia,
salix, citrus, bumbusa, ficus, olea, mespilus, cydonia,
prunus, salisburia, podocarpus, clerodendron, nerium,
laurus, diospyros, pauUinia, vitex, melia, broussonetia,
camellia, illicium, and hydrangea. Like the China Region,
the vegetation in connexion with the climate well deserves
attentive study.

Relations. — In many respects they are close with
China, and also abundant with Siberia through pinus
cerabra, the birch, the larch, and the willow, &c. The

424 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

aflSnities with the North American Regions are much
stronger than happen in the China Region, through sam-
bucus, cBsculus, pavia, magnoha, vitis, bignonia, juglans,
and rhododendron.

XXXVIL— THE CHINA REGION.

Extent. — A large portion of the east of Asia, comprising
thevastempireofChina,Correa, Japan, and theislandsborder-
ingthe coast, presents a remarkable vegetation, influenced by
some peculiarities of climate, and having many interesting
relations with other and sometimes distant regions, from all
which its isolation is complete. I regard it as conveniently
divided into two regions; the China Region, and the Japan
Region ; the former entertaining copious relations with
India, and the latter with Siberia. The China Region, the
object of our present attention, does not embrace the
whole of that empire, but that portion of it situated between
the Hoang-ho, or great river, and the Gulf of Tonquin.
Its western boundary is within a line stretching from the
Gulf of Tonquin to the Himma-leh Mountains, and, continu-
ing along the chain which separates Thibet from China,
ceases at the Tartary Region. To the east it is bounded by
the Pacific Ocean, but includes the islands of Formosa,
Loo-Choo, and Hainan.

Physical Characters. — No country in the world pre-
sents such a forbidding aspect as China. The land on the
southern shores is generally bold, and seems to be so swept
by the periodical winds that vegetation will not thrive. A
little feru and coarse grass alone resist them, with occasion-
ally a few stunted bushes. In other places the shores are
low, and flooded by the sea. Where, however, there are

THE CHINA REGION. 425

sheltered valleys vegetation prospers, and is more distin-
guished for its variety than luxuriance.

The interior of the country, on the lowest estimate,
supports a population of '230 to the square mile, the chief
part of which has for ages been engaged in the great na-
tional pursuit of agriculture, and cannot have failed, in this
long period, to have materially altered the face of the
country, and to have driven the native flora to the moun-
tains, and other places not favourable to cultivation. To
this may also be attributed the scarcity of forest, but it must at
the same time be remembered that this latitude elsewhere is
not remarkable for this kind of vegetation. Particulars of
the interior of China have been collected by the English
and Dutch embassies, and in the writings of the Jesuit
missionaries. The country is traversed by several moun-
tain chains of no great elevation, pursuing various direc-
tions, and impressing a picturesque and even romantic as-
pect on much of the scenery. This is aided too by the
scattered growth of trees, which are spread in open irregu-
lar clumps, and by the methodical and extreme cultivation
of the plains. The prevailing mineral structures are
granite, often traversed by veins of quartz or supporting
blocks of it, coarse limestone, clay- slate, and sandstones.
Bazaltic trap occurs in the island of Hong-kong. It was
very generally observed that the rocks were in a state of
rapid disintegration. The soil has an universal character
throughout China, consisting of a loam of a red or ferrugi-
nous colour, sometimes clayey, and capable of being formed
into bricks, which become blue after burning. The soil
itself is sufficiently productive, and is diligently assisted by
a persevering upturning and division of the lumps, the
plentiful application of manure, and the most laboured irri-
gation. The mountains are rocky and barren, scattered
with trees of quercus glauca or other species, laurus

42G THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

camphora, or stillingia sebifera. The range separating the
province of Canton is extensively wooded vi'ith pinus mas-
soniana and p. lanceolata. Many bushes of melastoma,
myrtus, rhus, camellia, eugenia, and chloranthus, abound in
similar situations.

Climate. — Meteorological observations have been con-
ducted at Canton through a series of years, which give
some satisfactory mean results. June, July, and August,
are the summer months, as with us, and the heat is intense.
In December, January, and February, the weather is
equally bleak and cold. The mean temperature is TO" 4',
and the range from '29" to 94o, or sixty-five degrees. It is in
all respects a climate of extremes, for both the annual and
diurnal range is great, and its peculiarities will be placed in
the strongest light by a comparison with that of Calcutta, San
Bias in Mexico, or other places in a nearly similar latitude.
The influence of the sun's rays in the cold season is great-
est, according to my observations, at one p. m., when their
radiating power is 43" above the shade. The hygrometvic
state of the atmosphere does not appear so much influenced
by the seasons as usual. Rain falls in all the months, but
by far the greatest quantity in the summer. The mean of
sixteen years observations is 70*6 inches. The amount
varies greatly in different years, and also in different
months. Thus ninety inches have been known, and in
1840 there only fell sixty-one inches. The range of the
hygrometer is probably below the average, for in the dry
season I never obtained a greater depression than 6", and
even then the dews were very heavy.

Flora. — The vegetation comprises great variety in
species, and attractive kinds are more than usually abun-
dant. It has been observed that, in relation to the space,
forest is not frequent, but this is met by a great variety of low
shrubby plants, the preponderance of which is character-

THE CHINA REGION. 427

istic. Generally their foliage is evergreen, and with the
customary rich deep green shades. Aromatic qualities also
prevail among them. The flowers, though not of large
size, are very frequently of rich deep colours, having a very
showy appearance, and when they fade are succeeded by
berries nearly as attractive from their varied colours as the
flowers. The number of different kinds of berries yielded
by the shrubs is really astonishing. One of the most strik-
ing features of the region is the mixed character of the
vegetation, and it would perhaps be impossible to find it
carried to a similar extent elsewhere. The violet is seen
blooming under the shelter of the melastoma, the bamboo
and the pine grow together on the hills, and the potato and
sugar cane are cultivated in the same field. A great num-
ber of natural families are represented, some of which are
more prominent than others. Aurantiacese is particularly
abundant : three species of orange are indigenous, and
there are many varieties, and the fruit is always fine. The
climate is undoubtedly eminently favourable to this group.
Camelliese is nearly limited here, and has several impor-
tant species. Rhamnese, connaraceae, nepenthese, legumi-
nosse, compositse, myrtaceae, sterculiaceae, cinchonacese,
and coniferse, all deserve mention. There are some which
appear unusually scarce, as tropical endogense, orchidaceae,
amygdalese, and the cryptogamic families generally, particu-
larly fungi.

The arborescent vegetation is chiefly supplied by quer-
cus, of which there are most probably many species.
Pinus, also, with several species, one of which descends to
22° N. lat, thuja, cunninghamia, podocarpus, juniperus,
acer, morus, sterculia, melia, ficus, magnolia, laurus, and
bambusa. The shrubs are considerably more numerous:
ilex, olea, rhododendron, rhus, rubus, azalea, rosa, spiraea,
camellia, gardenia, canthium, itea, myrtus, eugenia, vibur-

428 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

nam, photinia, raphiolepis, prnios, triphasia, murraya, gly-
cosmis, pittosporum, melastoma, bauhinia, chloranthus,
olea, jasminum, diospyros, and hibiscus. Among the
plants of a more fugitive existence are malva tricuspidata,
kalanchoe spathulata, clematis hedysarifolia, drosera
loureirii, sida rhombifolia, indigofera hirsuta, crotalaria
retusa, c. vachellii, abrus precatorius, mesembryanthemum
cordifolium, torihs japonica, paratropia cantoniensis, with
species of hypericum, polygonum, chenopodium, salvia,
chrysanthemum, aster, gnaphalium, and grangea. Cyanus
nelumbo and trapa bicornis are plentiful on the canals and
quiet waters. Viscura ovalifolium is found in the neigh-
bourhood of Canton ; and another parasite, cassythis fili-
formis, festoons the shrubs with its sickly branchlets. The
geographical range of the latter is extensive, stretching as
it does from the Cape of Good Hope in 18°, E. long., to
China, the Indian islands, and across the Pacific Ocean to
140*, W. long., or nearly two-thirds round the globe.

In a statistical view, the number of species in the flora
appears to be small in proportion to the leading groups re-
presented, as they stand in about the following numerical
relations: families 5, genera 13, species 16, giving some-
thing more than three species to each famil)'.

Some of the cultivated or more remarkable plants are
worthy of notice, and the tea shrub is naturally the most
prominent. The numerous varieties known in commerce
are equally produceable from the two species, thea bohea
and t. viridis, the difference depending on soil, culture, the
age of the leaf, and the manufacture. It is a handsome
shrub, with fragrant white (yellow, Davis) flowers, preferring
the sides of the hills and a poor soil. Green tea is chiefly
produced in Kiang-nan, between 29" and 31" N. lat. ; black
tea in Fohkien, between 27° and SS" N. lat. The favourite
soil is a decomposed granite mixed with feitspar, and which

THE CHINA REGION. 429

is used in the nianufact';re of the elegant porcelain in which
the infusion is drank. One portion of the world, as the
English and others, pronounce it tea ; the other portion, as
the Portuguese and Spaniards, cha. Both words are
Chinese, but the former is the dialect of Amoy, and the
latter of Canton. The range of the indigenous shrub is
perhaps as far as 45" N. lat. The sugar-cane is cultivated
to 30° N. lat. ; but its productiveness is probably not great.
The banana is abundant about Canton, but the fruit re-
quires to be protected by a covering of the dry leaves — a
practice I never observed elsewhere. It is far from attaining
perfection, the saccharine qualities seeming to form after
the fruit has been gathered, and when it is becoming almost
rotten. Rice is most extensively cultivated throughout the
empire, and is really the staff of life. The seeds of stil-
lingia sebifera are surrounded by a substance resembling,
and having the same use as, tallow. Ligustrum lucidum
yields from its berries a wax. A branch of olea fragrans is
the reward of literary attainments, Camellia oleifera and
other species contain oil in their seeds, which is easily ex-
pressed, and is sold at Canton under the name of tea oil, for
all common purposes, ^schynomene paludosa was for
some time supposed to produce the rice paper of China ;
the proper plant, however, is still a desideratum. This
plant is also a native of China, as well as India, where it
is called shola, and has its uses. The fruits more particu-
larly Chinese are the loquat, litchi, longan, flat peach, man-
darin orange, red lime, and fingered shaddock.

Relations. — The entireness of its flora may be sought
in the peculiarity of the vegetation when compared with
the latitude, and in the sources of resemblance it has with
distant regions, as with the Iroquois Region through mag-
nolia, juglans, prinos, and ilex ; with the California Region
in general aspect and habit, and in the prevalence of rham-

430 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

neae; and with several distant regions through pinus,
quercus, acer, rhus, rhododendron, azalea, myrtus, lonicera,
rubus, &c. Few of these plants connecting it elsewhere
are shared with neighbouring regions, if we make some ex-
ception in favour of Japan : but of its more tropical species
many occur equally in the various parts of India and the
Malay islands. Through paliurus, diospyros, olea, aud
tamarix, we are reminded of Asia Minor. Species of
euphorbia partially replace the cactese of the New World.

XXXVIII.— THE BIRMAH REGION.

Extent. — At present we separate this region rather be-
cause it has not the features of the neighbouring regions,
than from any known peculiar characters of its own, since
so little is known concerning it. It embraces a large por-
tion of country extending south from the Himma-leh
mountains, between the Ganges on one side, and the Gulf
of Tonquin on the other, with the exception of the Malacca
peninsula, which belongs to the Malaisia Region ; including
thus the kingdoms of Birmah, Siam, and Cochin China.

Physical Characters. — The interior is little known.
The country would appear productive, and is watered by
several large rivers.

Climate. — Tropical, but apparently without those ex-
tremes of temperature so frequent in the China Region.

Flora. — Botanists have hitherto made very slight in-
roads. Loureiro has given us a fragment of the vegetation
of Cochin China. Aurantiacese seem to be nearly as fre-
quent as in the China Region, and there are several of the
most tropical plants in common, but a nearly complete ab-
sence of those of more temperate latitudes, which so abound

THE MALAISIA REGION. 431

there. In Assam the tea plant has been found in abundance,
and the leaves have been since manufactured and exported
to England. Some of the species of Blume's Flora Javse
occur here, and perhaps also of other of the Malay islands.
Relations. — Unknown.

XXXIX.— THE MALAISIA REGION.

Extent.— The numerous islands of the Indian Ocean, of
which Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Celebes, the Phillipines,
Flores, and Timor, are the most extensive. The Moluccas
are not included, as they belong to the New Guinea
Region ; the peninsula of Malacca, however, forms an im-
portant part of this region.

Physical Characters Bold scenery and lofty moun-
tains are especially characteristic of these islands, and ex-
tensive traces of volcanic action are in many places appa-
rent. They are generally distinguished for their rich soil
and fertility, the latter due to a moist atmosphere, frequent
heavy rains, and the constant influence of a hot sun.
Though some of the mountains are extremely lofty, they
rarely attain the elevation of perpetual snows.

Climate. — The equator traverses the region, and pro-
duces a difference in the distribution of the seasons in the
islands somewhat removed from it. Those to the north
have their wet seasons from May to September or October,
being nearly the same as our summer. To the south, the
rains commence in October and cease about April. At
the equator, the distinction of these seasons is less decided,
the different parts of the year being very similar. The
range of temperature is very small in the year or during
the day. The thermometer generally stands at 86" to 90°.

432 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

The rains are very heavy, and the air is usually laden with
moisture.

Flora. — With few exceptions, the whole of the islands
are covered with forest, which is particularly exposed to
that rapid growth and decay consequent on a humid and
warm atmosphere. It is rich in species, and distinguished
as the source of some of those remarkable for their aromatic
or luscious qualities, and which might be easily diffused
throughout the region. In many respects they are the
same as those of the Indian regions, with such differences
as depend on climate. Leguminosse, malvaceae, and some
others, are therefore not proportionately numerous.

Java is a rich and fruitful island. Its forests are filled
with cinchonaceae, which abound here in astonishing num-
bers, and which would seem to be the spot of greatest inten-
sity of the family. Hydrocerese, having only a solitary
species, is confined to the island. The curious rafflesia and
the famous antiaris toxicaria are indigenous. On the ele-
vated lands of the interior quercus and other genera of a
temperate climate are encountered.

Sumatra and Malacca, like Java, are covered with
forests, supporting or sheltering a luxuriant vegetation,
among which orchidacese, ferns, and climbers, are very
numerous ; and the dead wood is often invested with lichens
of gloomy colours.

Celebes has an estimated superficies of 70,000 square
miles. The forest vegetation is thinner than elsewhere,
and the surface often very rocky. The neighbouring island
of Borneo, however, has the usual vast compact forest, in
which the dryobalanops camphora is conspicuous, and where
at present it is confined.

Timor is distinguished for its sandalwood forests, but
santalum is probably diffused over all the islands.

The Phillipines, though nominally belonging for so long

THE HINDOSTAN REGION. 433

a time to the Spaniards, are really in possession of the
natives, and sealed against Europeans ; they are, therefore,
little known. Some of the tropical plants of the China
Region are found here, and the seasons are directly the re-
verse of those in the southern islands. From these and
some other reasons, they may, perhaps, deserve to be con-
sidered as a distinct region.

Relations. — In the circumstances of the climate, and in
some of the more prominent productions, there is a clear
resemblance with some parts of the Oronoco Region. In
the superior prevalence of cinchonacese in both, this is par-
ticularly manifest. With the Indian Regions there is much
in common, and tectona grandis and other trees abound in
the forest of Java, though dipterocarpese belongs chiefly to
the islands.

XL.— THE HINDOSTAN REGION.

Extent.— Vast research has been already devoted to the
immense flora of intertropical Asia, but the results rather
make us acquainted with detached portions, than convey a
general view of the whole. Thus there are extensive dis-
tricts hitherto unexamined, and of which we consequently
know nothing. A difficulty, therefore, exists, amounting
in some cases to an impossibility, of defining its regional
vegetation. However, there are important points of dif-
ference between the portion known as Hindostan and that
comprehending Birmah and Cochin-China, and for the pre-
sent we will regard the Ganges as an arbitrary line of dis-
tinction. To the north are the Himma-leh Mountains,
and to the west the region probably crosses the Indus to
the Solyman range.

Physical Characters. — Great diversity of character is
VOL. II. F F

434 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

visible over this extensive surface. In the neighbourhood
of the rivers, particularly that of the Ganges, the surface is
an extensive alluvial plain, where a hillock would be a
a novelty. In other parts, a number of secondary moun-
tain chains traverse the country, and give rise to many
rivers and streams which carry fertility through their
course. These elevations are often extremely bold and
rocky, and are sufficiently great to affect the vegetation
and climate. On the whole the soil is fruitful, and in some
places eminently productive ; in others there are occasional
sandy or rocky districts.

Cl[3iate. — The seasons are tropical, with perhaps a
greater range of temperature than is customary for the lati-
tude. At Calcutta the mean heat is 79o 4, and the tempe-
rature sometimes falls to 63"; at Madras the mean is 84" 4,
and at Bombay 81" 9. The quantity of rain has been esti-
mated at Calcutta to be &1 inches annually, and at Bombay
82 inches. In the Nhilgerries, where the elevation in-
fluences the climate, the mean of the year at Serloo, elevated
3,500 feet, is 70°; at Jackanary, 5,000 feet, 60«; and at
Ootacamund, 8,500 feet, 56" 6. At the latter, the average
fall of rain is about 64 inches.

Flora. — The magnificent vegetation of this region pre-
sents all that is rich and beautiful, and such as can be
expected within the tropics. The extensive forests con-
tain a great variety of trees, often of surpassing magnitude ;
and frequently the number of individuals is very great, as
in the saul forests which skirt the base of the Himma-leh
Mountains, and sometimes in the assemblage of palms in
situations suited to their growth. We have only room to
state, that the mass of the vegetation is derived from the
following natural families : araliaceae, nelumbonese, cap-
parideae, flacourtianea?, anonaceae, myristiceae, dilleniacea?,
laurineae, menispermeaj, sterculiaceae and dombeyacea?,
6

THE HINDOSTAN REGIOX. 435

sections of sterculiacese, moringeae, ela3ocarpeae, salicarise,
myrtaceae, combretacese, santalacese, olacineee, leguminosae,
urticese, artocarpese, euphorbiaceae, celastrineag, rhamneae,
sapindaceae, vites, rneliaceae, cedreleae, aurantiaceae, conna-
raceae, amyrideae, burseracese, anacardiaceae, ochnaceae,
balsamineae, bignoniaceae, piperaceae, cucurbitaceae, cin-
chonaceas, loranthaceas, loganiaceae, asclepiadeae, myrsineae,
cyrtandraceae, begoniacese, cycadeae, commelineae, scitami-
neae, smilaceae, pandaneae, and aroideae. — {Greville.)
Many of these families, however, are more copiously re-
presented elsewhere, and some are but rarely seen. The
families strictly confined to India are few, as memecyleae,
alangieae, aquilarinese, stilagineae, and some of these even
may be disputed.

Ceylon is estimated to contain 24,660 square miles, and
its highest point attains 8,280 feet. The climate varies
much in temperature and fall of rain in different parts.
At Colombo the annual range is from 76° to 87", and the
fall of rain from 75 to 80 inches. The vegetation is similar
to the continental, and the elevation of surface is friendly
to the existence of a somewhat altered vegetation, mixed
with a few genera of temperate latitudes.

Relations. — There is so much similarity in the con-
trolling influences within the tropics of the different conti-
nents, that we are not surprised to find them approaching
each other in the general characters of their vegetation.
This is not only visible in the more bulky tropical families,
as combretaceae, melastomacese, piperacese, cinchonaceae,
and celastrineee ; but in the inconsiderable groups of peda-
linese, olacinese, ochnacese, samydeae, hippocrateaceae, and
homalinese. In some instances, where the relations are less
intimate, a compensation seems attempted, as in the pre-
sence of cyrtandraceae for the gesnereae of intertropical
America. Whilst America presents some affinities with

F F 2

436 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

New Holland, they are rarer in Asia, a circumstance per-
haps due to geographical position. Several genera are
shared with the China Region, the most remarkable being
nepenthes. Cyrtandra is numerously represented in the
Sandwich Islands.

XLI.— THE HIMMA-LEH REGION.

Extent. — This is probably the most interesting alpine
reeion in the world, as some allowances are necessary for
the charm with which Humboldt has invested the Andes.
The novelty of his researches ensured an early and lasting
impression on the minds of scientific men, and the wide re-
putation which ensued has so overshadowed the subject
elsewhere, that all other mountain chains have been re-
duced to almost a secondary importance. The names of a
few Englishmen have recently become associated with the
examination of the natural features and productions of the
Himma-leh Mountains, and the obscurity in which they
were long buried has been considerably removed. This
gigantic mass of mountains traverses a great portion of
Asia from east to west in a somewhat devious line between
25o 20' and 31" N. lat, and 75° and 95" E. long. In accord-
ance with our views of the extent of an alpine flora, this
region commences at the spot where the lowland cultivation
ceases, and which, in diiferent aspects and situations, varies,
to an important extent, between 3,200 and 4,400 feet.
Above this are the four permanent belts of an alpine flora.
Von Buch is disposed to think there is room for another
region towards the limit of vegetation, but I do not deem
it advisable to distinguish further in the alpine regions.
Physical Characters, — The Himma-leh Mountains

THE HIMMA-LEH REGION. 437

are not a solitary chain, but are composed of many heaped
against each other, of varied outline and elevation, and
containing within them numerous defiles, valleys, plains,
and every other disposition of surface liable to occur, sid
materially influencing the climate and vegetable produc-
tions. In many of these situations is collected a rich soil
and all the appliances of great fertility. Their geological
structure presents numerous rocks ; approaching the chain
from the south, sandstone first appears, distinctly stratified
and containing strata of lignite ; to these succeed various
kinds of slaty rocks, imbedding quartz, limestone, and horu-
bleude ; lastly, gneiss appears in vast quantities, traversed
by veins of granite, and imbedding garnets, schorl, hyacinth,
and native gold. Animal remains occur in considerable
quantities in some places, consisting of marine shells, fish?
and the bones of animals. The breadth of the region
varies between "250 and 350 miles, but the extent of surface
geographically furnishes no correct estimate of the reaj
superficies. The snow -line fluctuates according to the cir-
cumstances of the locality, but may be generally stated at
from 14,000 to 16,000 feet, and is always higher on the
northern flanks. Among the loftiest peaks are Juvaher, at-
taining'25,800 feet ; Dhawalagiri, 2«,500 feet; and Chu_
mularee, 29,000 feet ; but vegetation has ceased long
before.

Climate. — Whilst the region possesses the evenness of
temperature, brilliancy of atmosphere, and other attendants
of alpine situations, the climate is greatly affected by aspect,
and the mean heat, range, and distribution of moisture dif-
fer on its northern and southern flanks.

Flora. — Nature has enriched this magnificent range of
mountains with a varied and abundant vegetation. It is
singular, that some of the genera that do not usually pro-
duce trees, have species here which attain a considerable

438 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

bulk, as juniperus,salix,ligustrum,rubus, and rhododendron.
Though the range of its alpine regions varies considerably
with aspect, the very brief notice we must here take of them
will be found generally correct.

1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 3,200
or 4,400 feet. This correctly does not belong to the Himma-
leh Region, but to that embracing the plains of Hindostan.
Tropical productions prevail, as scitaminese, epiphytic
orchidacece, numerous tropical forest trees, the sugar-cane,
pine-apple, mango, banana, and bamboo.

2. The Region of Woods extends to 11,000 feet. The
vegetation is dense and luxuriant ; the more conspicuous
genera are laurus, quercus, pinus, ilex, magnolia, gordonia,
prunus, pyrus, fraxinus, michelia, podocarpus, morus,
ulmus, berberis, and populus.

8. The Regioji of Shrubs extends to 12 or 13,000 feet.
Many of the genera of the last region enter this, but when
of arborescent habit they universally become stunted and
dwarf; salix, vaccinium, betula, juniperus, taxus, cupressus,
stunted species of quercus and pinus, viburnum, lonicera,
rhododendron, rubus, ribes, rosa, and ulex. Among her-
baceous plants are potentilla, fragaria, gentiana, viola, saxi-
fraga, salvia, dracocephalum, plectranthus, ranunculus,
polyanthus, primula, antennaria, ageratum, sida, and gera-
nium.

4. The Region of Grasses extends to 14,600 feet. It
abounds in natural pasture land.

5. The Region of Cryptogamic Plants extends to the line
of perpetual snow. Lichens and mosses prevail of identical
genera, and also to a great extent, species, with the high
latitudes of Europe.

Relations. — As we increase the height above the plains,
the affinities with the neighbouring regions become less
distinct, and others are established with distant latitudes

THE SPAIN REGION. 439

and other mountain ranges. They soon become very inti-
mate with the Alps and Pyrenees, and even with the Altai
and Andes. Genera common to both are represented by
similar species, and sometimes one tree or shrub seems to
occupy the place of another ; thus, abies dumosa replaces
the pinus pumila of Europe. There are a few species
identical with Europe, as hedera helix, rosa canina, r.
spinosissima, and salix babylonica. (Levant.) American
affinities are recognized in magnolia, juglans, careya, age-
ratum, photinia, and osmorhiza.

XLIL— THE SPAIN REGION.

Extent. — Spain and Portugal, with so much of the
mountain chains and southern side of the Pyrenees as is
devoted to the cultivation of the plains ; and the islands of
Minorca, Majorca, and Loi9a.

Physical Characters. — The European peninsula is
traversed in all directions by numerous mountain ranges,
often of the most forbidding sterility. Nor are the features
of the intervening plains frequently much improved by ally
important accession to the vegetation. The most promising
verdure will usually be found collected in the valleys, or
along the courses of rivers and streams, and in some of the
most fertile lower plains. The different provinces present
some variety in this respect.

Climate. — The summers are warm, and the winters
mild. Some parts are generally dry and severe throughout
the year ; but the northern parts, with a milder climate, are
liable to much rain and heavy weather.

Flora. — The vegetation everywhere is characterized by
the evergreen oaks ; the habit, mode of growth, and foliage
of which are peculiar. These consist of several species^

440 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

some of which are at present imperfectly defined. Among
them quercus suber is distinguished as composing large
woods ; and q. ilex and q. tanzin are abundant. Entire
woods of these trees are frequent in Aragon, Catalonia,
the Castilles, Estremadura, Andalusia, Valencia, and Mur-
cia. Quercus valentina of Cavanaiiles is seen in the eastern
part of Valencia and other parts of the south. Q. australis
of Link, a fine species, is associated with q. suber near
Gibraltar. Q. fastigiata is found on the flanks of the
Pyrenees. Of the deciduous kinds q. rubur is very abun-
dant in the northern provinces, not existing in the central.
Sometimes q. pubescens accompanies it. Q. coccifera
prefers the south, where it abounds extensively, and ex-
tends as far north as the centre of Spain, Q. aegilops is
met with in the Sierra Morena.

Captain Cook, in his Sketches in Spain, regards the
vegetation as conveniently distributed into three divisions.
The Jirst division comprehends Galicia, Asturias, the
Basque provinces. Upper Navarre, and the maritime parts
of Old Castile. It is distinguished for the humidity of the
atmosphere, equable temperature, its pastures, verdure,
and luxuriant vegetation. It produces little or no oil, wine
of an inferior quality, but much valuable timber. Quercus
robur, q. ilex, menziesia daboeci, pteris aquilina, ulex
stricta, u. europea, are chiefly characteristic. The second
division includes the Castiles, Estremadura, Aragon, part
of Catalonia, and the upper portions of Valencia, Murcia,
and Andalusia. The climate is remarkable for its dryness.
In some parts the olive is abundant; and Aragon is
famous for its large pine forests. Quercus ilex, q.
tauzin, q. prasina, and numerous cistus and helianthemum
prevail. The third division occupies the shores of the
Mediterranean, the western coast of Andalusia, and the
valley of the Guadelquivir, as far as Cordova. The sum-
7

THE SPAIN REGION. 441

mers are hot and dry, and the winters mild. Syngenesious
plants are abundant, as are also c.istinese and irideae ; and
the sugar-cane, cotton, rice, sweet potato, lemon, orange,
fig, and pomegranate, may be all seen.

It will be instructive to trace the vegetation south from
the Bay of Biscay to Madrid, then south-east to the Me-
diterranean. In Asturias we are surrounded by quercus
robur, castanea vesca, corylus avellana. The range of
mountains may now be crossed, some parts of which about
Puerto de Pajares attain from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. On the
mountain sides here are fagus sylvatica and quercus prasina.
About Valladolid is pinus pinea. The upper ranges of
the Guadarrama are clothed with pinus sylvestris, and
beneath it, at a somewhat less elevation, is quercus tauzin.
Here, too, according to Captain Cook, is the southern
boundary of the ash. After passing Madrid, pinus hale-
pensis is seen mingled with p. pinaster; the former grows
exclusively on the shore of the Mediterranean, and its
northern European limit is 40° 20'. N. lat. at Sacedon.
On the Sierra de Cuenca pinus sylvestris occurs for the
last time, having hitherto tenaciously clothed every moun-
tain summit, and p. maritima, and p. halepensis conduct
us to Valencia.

Reseda is frequent, though it does not embrace the
favourite of our gardens, which is a native of Egypt.
Narcissus and similar plants are abundant in the spring
vegetation, and among a multitude of others there are a
few genera particularly deserving of mention as conspicuous
in the flora; helianthemum, cistus, erica, teucrium, lavau-
dula, ulex, spartium, ononis, rosmarinus, cerinthe, anchusa,
echiitm, passerina, nepeta, delphinium, &c.

Of several families which have for a long time been re-
garded as densely clustered about the shores of the Me-
diterranean, cistineae is found in the greatest intensity in

442 THE RECaOMS UF ^'EGETATION.

the Spain Region; .labiatae in the Asia Minor Region;
caryophyllese in the Danube Region, but are nearly equally
numerous in Asia Minor, proportionately few in Spain, and
many species are indigenous to the north of Europe and
Siberia. Boraginese are perhaps most numerous in the
Danube Region, though very abundant in Asia Minor ;
less so more to the westward, but increase in the Canary
Islands. And oleacese are most prevalent in the Italy
Region, though fraxinus has most of its species in North
America.

The Balearic Islands have a few peculiar plants. To
Minorca are ascribed buxus balearica, arum crinitum,
caprifolium implexum, ligusticum balearicum, rubia angus-
tifolia ; and to Majorca rubia lucida.

Relations. — Several tropical plants have migrated to
this region, and imparted distinct features, such as cha-
mserops humilis, phoenix dactylifera, agave americana,
opuntia vulgaris, and other cactese. Its most decided pe-
culiarity, as an European region, is derived from the
presence of many African species. Both these features
are more strongly impressed in the south, and the scanty
vegetation about Gibraltar is characterized by genista
unifolia, spartium junceum, teucrium valentinum, phlomis
fruticosa, chamserops humilis, and opuntia vulgaris. A
collection of phsenogamous plants made by Von Martius
at Algesiras contained 143 species belonging to the south
of Europe, 60 to temperate Europe, and 17 to Africa;
and of the whole number 58 were indigenous to Great
Britain. A very interesting relation with the South Africa
Region is displayed through erica, which has here several
distinct species ; and indeed the prevalence of the genus
in a portion of Europe is remarkable when we reflect what
a broad barrier intervenes, how truly a cape genus it is,
and how very sparingly it is diffused elsewhere, even

THE ITALY REGION. 443

when the climate and circumstances seem favourable, the
whole of the two Americas not offering a single species.
More relations with the same region may he traced through
passerina and others.

XLIIL— THE ITALY REGION.

Extent. — Italy, to the south of the Alps, that portion
of France south of the Cevennes, and Sicily, Malta, Corsica,
and Sardinia.

Physical Characters. — Those who have entered Italy
from the north by way of the Alps, have been always im-
pressed by the sudden change and interesting character of
the vegetation. The north of Italy is eminently fruitful,
and in the Milanese the soil, aided by irrigation, yields
four crops of grass in the year. This is the country of
the Parmesan cheese. Prolonged irrigation destroys the
grass, and a rotation of crops is conducted. The sluices
are shut, and the soil subjected to courses of hemp,
leguminous plants, oats, wheat, and maize, for five years.
After this, grasses accumulate, and are assisted by irrigation,
usually for fifteen years. The territory about Genoa is
rocky and unproductive, and much of the south is in the
same condition, and some parts almost too unhealthy to
cultivate. In Sicily, the lava fields are planted with cactus,
which after thirty years become fitted for cultivation.

Climate. — Generally the seasons are warm and even,
and the temperature rarely below 32o, but in some places,
as at Naples, they are liable to extremes. At Rome the
mean temperature is 59° 5, of winter 45*^8, of summer 75° 2 ;
at Toulon the mean is 62", of winter 48" 4, of summer
74" 8, and at Hieres, in the neighbourhood, the orange ceases

444 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

to grow ; at Palermo, in Sicily, the annual mean is 65o,
and the range, in twenty years observations, from lOo" to 34»,
or seventy- one degrees ; the nuuiber of rainy days is only 65,
and the fall of rain 21-1 inches; the cotton plant, banana,
and sugar-cane all repay cultivation. The amount of rain
and rainy days varies somewhat ; in Provence the number
of rainy days is only 67, in Florence 103, fall of rain 31-6 ;
in Rome, rainy days 117, fall of rain 39 inches, but at
Tolluezzo in Fruili, and at Carfagnano in the Apennines,
the amount is said to be respectively 82 and 92 inches.
More rain falls to the west than to the east of the Apen-
nines.

Flora. -As an European region, it is distinguished by
the open character of its vegetation, the dry juiceless ever-
green foliage, absence of real forest, and the mixture of
tropical and sub-tropical forms. The olive, myrtle, fig,
vine, and pomegranate, abound everywhere. Several of its
grasses are peculiar, and some attain a large size, as
arundo donax. In a climate like that of Italy, there will be
a very considerable difference in the vegetation of the sea-
sons, and the warm rains of spring are especially favour-
able to the presence of asphodelese and similar plants ;
nrnithogalum, muscari, erythronium, ixia, bulbocodium,
anemone, adonis, clematis, ranunculus, fedia, lotus, medi-
cago, bellis, chrysanthemum, are now numerous; the more
permanent vegetation is derived from certain species of
quercus and pinus, acer, pseudoplatanus, diospyros lotus,
paliurus australis, morus nigra, celtis australis, capparis
spinosa, acanthus mollis, plumbago europea, erythrina
corallodendron, smilax aspera, cassia italica, phyllyrea,
hibiscus, erica, cistus, buxus, pistacia, ornus, numerous
boragineaj, labiatac, scrophularineae, solanese, and mal-
vaceae.

Slcllij has a flora extremely similar to Italy, and with

THE DANUBE REGION. 445

very few peculiarities. In the introduced plants there is
a greater resemblance to the tropics.

Malta, from its situation, may be supposed to have more
African plants than Sicily. Its total flora is about 200
species, nearly the whole of which it is likely have migrated
here. Spix and Von Martius collected 150 kinds, of
which 56 were common with Germany, 90 with the south of
Europe, and only 4 with the neighbouring coast of Africa.
It may have a few plants of its own, as fungus melitensis,
yucca tenuifolia, and ricinus armatus.

Corsica offers a few peculiar plants, and the summits of
the hills are covered w ith pinus laricio.

Sardinia has supplied us with common parsley, petro
selinum sativum, but it is not limited to the island.

Relations. — In many respects this is a parallel region
with the Spain Region, for tropical features show themselves
in both, but in the latter are more mixed with African.
Labiatae, though numerous in both, are more abundant here.
In the habit of the vegetation it corresponds in ntany respects
with the Asia Miror, California, South Africa, and New
South Wales Regions. The Cape of Good Hope genera of
iridese, gladiolus, morgea, trichonema, have each represen"
tatives here. Putoria calabrica, a cinchonaceous plant, is
met with in the south.

XLIV.— THE DANUBE REGION.

Extent. — That portion of Europe to the South of the
Carpathians, and between the Adriatic and Black Seas, and
consisting of Hungary, the Turkish provinces in Europe,
and Greece, much of which is fertilized by the Danube and
its tributaries. The southern extreme of Greece is in many
respects very similar to Asia Minor.

446 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

Physical Characters. — No part of Europe is superior
in the capabilities of the soil, yet none has been rendered
so little available. From some of the productions it would
appear more favourable than any other portion of this
quarter of the world, for the growth of several of the plants
of warm latitudes. The far greater part is still covered by
forest, and there are vast marshes where rice is extensively
cultivated.

Climate. — The summers are warm, and the winters
not usually severe, but the temperature is liable to vicisi-
tudes.

Flora. — The forest, which abounds over much of this
region, is composed of a little variety in its trees ; in
Hungary, species of prunus enter largely into it, sometimes
with multitudes of fraxinus rotundifolia ; whole forests of
cherries and apricots are seen in Wallachia, and the
elevated lands sustain large numbers of firs, oaks, pines,
and beeches; daphne cretica and spartium parviflorum
characterize the shores of Gallipoli ; the plum is everywhere
cultivated in the greatest abundance, and is the source of a
brandy called raky ; rhus cotinus abounds in Sclavonia and
the neighbouring provinces ; and in the southern and south-
eastern states are large groves of the olive.

Isatis tinctoria, or woad, exists in Hungary, and other
species are indigenous; Valeriana celtica, or spikenard, seems
to prefer a certain elevation ; daphne, nerium, clematis,
capparis, arbutus, amygdalus, populus, acer, asparagus,
orobanche, antirrhinum, astragalus, pyrus, Crataegus, spiraea,
gypsophila, thalictrum, helleborus, artemisia, chrysocoma,
cnicus, carlina, kitaibelia, bubon, seseli, are all character-
istic. Quercus racemosa is confined to the south, and the
melon and the vine are largely cultivated in Hungary.

Relations. — In Spain the vegetation partakes of
African features, and in this region of that of Central and

THE ALPS REC4I0N. 447

Western Asia. If it here wants the picturesque beauty of
Italy, it is also without the dry sapless aspect of its trees ;
and the smiling circumscribed character of the vegetation
is compensated by luxuriance and vigour. Those plants
which like shelter, as certain ranunculaceae and ferns, are
more abundant, and for a similar reason crucifeae are pro-
portionately numerous. Mesembryanthemum has two or
three species in Greece.

XL v.— THE ALPS REGION.

Extent. — The elevated sides of the mountain chains in
the south of Europe, above the line of lowland cultivation,
to their summits, or the limits of the vegetation. The
principal are the Pyrenees, the different portions of the
Alps, the Carpathians, the Apennines, and Mount
^tna.

Physical Characters. — It comprises an extent of rug-
ged and bare mountains, but often sheltering within them
rich moist valleys, and small verdant plains. Primitive
rocks chiefly prevail, and sometimes with such steep
scarped sides as to preclude the assemblage of soil and
vegetation. In Mount >i$]tna, and in some parts of the
Alps, there are large fields of lava, which, after a certain
period, become clothed with plants.

Climate. — This will vary from temperate to frigid, ac-
cording to the elevation ; it is also liable to fluctuations,
and to be disturbed by brisk winds and storms. The
mean temperature of St. Gothard at 6,390 feet is 30° 4.
On St. Bernard the fall of rain is 63 inches, which seems
great for the latitude, since the mean of twenty places in
the lower valleys of the Alps is 56' 5 inches. The mean
temperature of ^tna, at the base, is 64°.

448 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION

Flora. — The vegetable productions of higher latitudes
gradually appear as the elevation is increased. At first
are seen thick forests of their trees, till by degrees they
become dwarf and stunted, and are then succeeded by
shrubs; after these come certain herbaceous plants, with a
large proportion of grasses, large spaces covered with
lichens, and lastly perpetual snows. The flowers of this
region are often distinguished for the pureness and
brilliancy of their colours. The characteristic plants are
chiefly derived from gentiana, campanula, phyteuma, cher-
leria, androsace, primula, aretia, soldanella, ramonda,
helleborus, aconitum, saxifraga, pceonia, cytisus, and rho-
dodendron.

The Pyrenees are situated between 42° and 43° N. lati-
tude, and some of the highest peaks attain from ten to
twelve thousand feet. The lower portions of both the
north and south sides are covered with forests. The oaks
on the north side, as quercus robur, q. tauzin, q. pubescens,
q. fastigiata, but no evergreen species, these being con-
fined to the southern flanks, and the genus ceases at 3,260
feet. Pines now prevail, pinus sylvestris being found on
both sides, at its upper limits being mixed with p. unci-
nata, which soon after appears alone and closes in the trees
at 7,800 feet. Rhododendron ferriigineum now grows in
the valleys in vast quantities, with some northern shrubs.
Some herbaceous species of cold climates with lichens
soon after close in the vegetation among the perpetual
snows, which commence at 8,9r)0 feet. Abies communis
and larix europea, have no existence here. The ever-
green oaks cease at the village of Andorra. Several
of the alpine parts of the Spain Region belong here,
as the Sierra Nevada in Granada, Sierra de Estreila
in Portugal, Sierra de Cuenca, heights of the Guadarrama,
and others.

THE ALPS REGION. 449-

The Alps stretch across the south of Europe between
44° and 48° N. latitude, and present many greatly elevated
peaks and ranges ; Mont Blanc, the loftiest, attaining
15,730 feet. Their physical history and flora are scarcely
of inferior interest to the Himma-leh mountains, but are far
too extensive to be detailed here- The lowland cultivation
ceases at about 2,000 feet, and is succeeded by forests of
oak, chesnut, and pines, to 3,900 feet. Betula alba, rho-
dodendron, and stunted spruce, reach 7,800 feet, salix her-
bacea extending something higher. The line of perpetual
congelation is about 8,760 feet.

The Carpathian Mountains are situated in the east of
Europe, between 45° and 50° N. lat. There are also some
lofty peaks within this range, detached from the general
chain. Mount Lomnitz attains 8,436 feet, but the average
height is something below this. The lowland cultivation
ceases at 1,500 feet. The region of woods succeeds to
4,600 feet, the lower part being chiefly occupied by the
oak, birch, and particularly the fir. Next is the region
of shrubs, and here also are a few stunted trees of pinus
mughus, extending to 5,600 feet. And to these succeed
a number of low alpine plants to 6,500 feet, or the summits
of the mountains. When the elevation is greater, the sur-
face is occupied by lichens to 8,000 feet, constituting the
region of cryptogamic plants.

Mount JEtna is situated in 37° 43^' N. lat., and has an
elevation of 11,360 feet. Observers difl'er as to the lines
of vegetation. The lowland cultivation of the vine and
maize ceases at from 2,-200 to 3,300 feet. The orange,
lemon, and lime attain 1,900 feet, date 1,600, gossypium
herbaceum 1,000, morus nigra 2,500, fig 2,200. The
plants characteristic of the lava beds are andropogon hirtus,
a. distachyos, lagurus ovatus, rumex scutatus, Valeriana
rubra, plumbago europea, thymus nepeta, satureja greca

VOL. II. G a

450 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

ranunculus bullatus, capparis rupestris, scrophularia bi-
color, heliotropium bocconi, mandragora autumnalis, senecio
chrysanthemifolius, dapbne gnidiurn, spartium infestum,
solanum sodomseum, ricinus africanus, smilax aspera, eu-
phorbia, linaria, &c. The region of woods extends to
6,500, the oak and chestnut ceasing at 4,350 feet, and
pinus sylvestris at the hmit of the region. The region of
shrubs ceases at 8,125 feet, and contains bushes of juni-
perus, berberis, betula, and fagus. The region of grasses
ceases at 9,750 feet, and of cryptogamic plants at 10,000
feet.

Relations. — Rhododendron, and some few others, carry
our associations to the alpine regions of Asia and Ame-
rica, to lesser heights in China, and to some northern
latitudes. Sempervivum abounds in species in the Ca-
naries, yet on iEtna not a trace of it exists, but is replaced
by sedum, which is equally numerous, but has no existence
in the Canaries.

XLVL— THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION.

Extent.- — That portion of the centre of Europe to the
north of the southern chain of mountains is distinguished
for a certain individuality in its vegetation, and the exten-
sive cultivation of wheat. The southern limit is bounded
by the Alps and the Carpathians to the Caspian Sea, and
the Pyrenees and the Cevennes, thus excluding a portion
of the south of France. To the north it includes Den-
mark, and a part of the south extremes of Sweden and
Norway, and is separated from the Volga Region by a
line commencing in the Baltic on the coast in 55" N. lat.,
and traversing the southern provinces of Russia to the sea
of Azof. Its northern limit is in the vicinity of the

THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION. 451

boundary of acer, pseudo-platanus, morus nigra, populus
alba. p. nigra, pyrus malus, the vine and the chestnut ; and
the region generally may be regarded as that portion of
Europe where wheat is most advantageously cultivated for
food, to the north soon yielding to rye, and to the south
to Indian corn and rice. Wheat is stated to be most pro-
fitably cultivated between 3Q^ and 50° N. lat., and to cease
entirely at 60" or 6-2°. The British islands complete the
region.

Physical Characters. — According to Balbi, the surface
of Europe presents several remarkable geographical fea-
tures. Its centre consists of an extensive plain of con-
siderable productiveness, and to the north in Russia it
rises to a broad table-land of about 1,1 5U feet of elevation.
Another important table-land occupies the centre of Spain?
having an elevation of '2,300 feet, that of the Jura Alps
attains from 1,750 to 3,850 feet, and another in Piedmont
from 600 to 2,000 feet. But a far greater diversity is im-
parted by the several mountain chains of the Pyrenees, the
Alps, the Carpathians, the Apennines, and the Dofrines,
which considerably modify the climate and the character
of the vegetation. Besides there are several valleys which
serve to guide certain rivers to the ocean, and which are
pre-eminent both for their beauty and fertility. Of these
the most distinguished are the valleys of the Lower Danube,
the Rhine, the Drave, and the Po. Formerly, by far the
greater portion of the surface was covered with forest,
much of which has been gradually removed by cultivation,
but very extensive tracts in Russia and Poland are still in
this state, and throughout Europe generally a good deal of
forest still remains. On the whole, the soil is good and
fruitful, but there are spots consisting of little else than
rocks, or where the occasional invasion of the sea renders
it unserviceable, or where bog, morass, or heath exists, to

G G 2

452 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

the exclusion of cultivation, as in the countries south of the
Baltic.

Climate. — Malte-Brun and Balbi assign to Europe
three well-defined climates; the Atlantic distinguished for
its even temperature, and its moisture ; the climate of the
north-west of Europe being one of extremes of temperature :
and the climate of the south, which, with its higher tempe-
rature, holds a middle station between the two others.
Aware, however, that this division very imperfectly ex-
pressed all the important features, a further seven-fold one
was proposed, Europe is so situated, between extensive
seas on one side and a large mass of land and range of
mountains on the other, that it cannot fail to be greatly
governed by their influence over climate, and to oiFer some
variety. Compared with other climates of a similar latitude,
it will be found to be mild, less exposed to vicissitudes, and
that vegetation attains a higher northern station. Between
the west and east portions there are certain differences.
The mean heat may be nearly the same through the same
parallel, but the distribution in the seasons will be different.
On the west side, the climate being equable, the range
throughout the year is not great, and the mean of the
summer and winter months will not be in excess ; the
atmosphere is also moister, and the number of rainy days
greater. On the east side, however, the mean of these two
seasons is prone to extremes, and to take respectively
his'her and lower stations. Whatever differences occur in
the mean heat of the year will be in favour of the eastern
portions. The result of this on vegetation is, that plants
which prefer a climate free from extremes, and that move
with the mean temperature, will take a higher northern
station on the eastern side, as is visible in some of the
plants of Norway and Sweden, the apple for instance ; and
those which revel in a hot summer, and are indifferent to

THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION. 453

the extremes of winter, will be found occupying a limit
gradually extending towards the north-east.

In the Central Europe Region, the circumstances of the
climate are less strongly marked. The mean varies from
48° to 54°, and the usual annual range from 28° to 83°.
The atmosphere is often much loaded with moisture, and
the rainy days are nearly half the total to the year, though
the quantity of rain which falls does not exceed from 22
to 30 inches. The mean hydrometric state of the atmo-
sphere is four or six degrees below the mean temperature.
In a climate so clouded, the power of the sun's rays over
vegetation must be supposed to fall far short of their eflPects
in lower and more brilliant latitudes.

Flora. — The indigenous productions are those of a tem-
perate latitude. The climate holding a middle station, the
plants of the south wander here, and those of the north do
not find it ungenial ; it has thus a large proportion of
species for the extent of surface, and the more important
groups of plants are freely represented. The region will
therefore display, with a number of species, also a number
of genera and families, the proportions of the latter to the
former bring greater than usual. In the forest trees, how-
ever, the number of species as compared with other regions
is singularly small, and genera extensively represented else-
where have here often only solitary species. Nearly all
have deciduous leaves, and though grasses have not an im-
portant numerical relation to the flora, they flourish in great
luxuriance. These trees often manifest a partiality to par-
ticular soils, and in the forest, which clothes a larger por-
tion of Poland, the oak, yew, ash, poplar, chestnut, and
willow, are found on the clayey soil, whilst the pine and the
fir occupy exclusively the sandy soil. Inconspicuous
flowers prevail greatly, as might be expected where amen-
taceous and coniferous plants are so numerous, but in other

454 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

regions it is not unusual to have an intermixture of attrac-
tive flowers even in the trees, such as is not seen here.
The details of the region may be sought for in ranuncu-
lacese, cruciferse, caryophyllege, geraniaceee, saxifragese,
leguminosse, particularly the section viciese, rosacese, stel-
latae, compositae, boraginese, ericaceae, gentianese, labiatse,
serophularinese, polygonese, chenopodeae, the famiUes of
amentaceae, orchid acese, juncese, cyperaceae, graminese, and
a large proportion of the cryptogamic families.

Umbelliferae have a slight preponderance over other
regions, as will be seen in their distribution. The total
number of species is 1,009, but the duplicate habitats are
here included. In the Central Europe Region there are
represented 172 species; Danube Region, 161 ; Italy Re-
gion, 152; Asia Minor Region, 90; Spain Region, 82;
Barbary Region, 69; South Africa Region, 63; Iroquois
Region, 61 ; Volga Region, 53; Siberia Region, 50; Chili
and Peru Region, 45 ; New South Wales Region, 29 ; Pa-
raguay Region, 19; Patagonia Region, 10; other regions,
216. They are here found to exist in far greater numbers
in the northern hemisphere, and particularly in Europe.
In the latter they are most densely assembled in the cen-
tral, southern, and south-eastern portions, whence we may
infer their partiality for a warm temperate climate, for
warm summers and extremes in the seasons rather than the
reverse, and lastly, for an atmosphere tolerably supplied
with moisture. A few species cling to Western Europe
along the shores of the Atlantic, and are not found in the
eastern countries. Some have a partiality for elevated
stations in the Pyrenees, Alps, Andes, and Mexican high-
lands, and the Asia Minor Region derives its species in
great part from Caucasus.

France is chiefly included in this region ; it has an area
of 200,925 square miles, and 5,966 species ; or, in the pro-
portion of one species to about 34 scjuare miles.

THE VOLGA REGION. 455

The British Isles are estimated to contain 110,181
square miles, and their total vegetation, omitting algse and
fungi, is composed of 2,393 species, or one to every 46
square miles. These are distributed among 939 genera and
1 1 2 families. The value of the genus, or its average pro-
portion of species, is 3*7 ; of the family, or its proportion
of genera, is 5*7 ; of the exogenous genus, 2-8 ; of the same
family, 4*7; of the endogenous genus, 2-8; of the same
family, 6-7; of the cryptogamic genus, 8'5: of the same
family, 13. The flora has little to distinguish it from the
continent of Europe.

Ireland has 682 exogense, 211 endogense, and 41 ferns.
Some plants are found there not indigenous to Great
Britain, but generally occurring to the south of Europe ;
as, arbutus unedo, menziesia polifolia, papaver nudicaule,
sedum palustre, arenaria ciliata, saxifraga umbrosa, pin-
guicula grandiflora, trichomanes brevisetum, hookeria
Isetevirens, and h. splanchnoides. The two last are quite
peculiar.

Relations. — Besides the close relations to neighbour-
ing regions, some interesting affinities exist with the dis-
tant Patagonia and Van Diemen's Land Regions. Com-
pared with its American parallel, the Iroquois Region,
it fails greatly in variety, and particularly in the forest
trees.

XLVII. THE VOLGA REGION.

Extent.— Russia, to the west of the Ural Mountains,
and to the north of a line commencing at the fifty-fifth
degree of latitude on the Baltic, and extending to the Sea
of Azof; with the whole of Norway and Sweden, with

456 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

the exception of a small portion of their southern ex-
tremes.

Physical Characters. — Russia consists chiefly of an
extensive plain of inconsiderable elevation, and dotted with
numerous lakes and marshes, and Norway and Sweden are
intersected by lofty mountains.

Climate, — To the eastward the climate is one of ex-
tremes, the summers being hot and the winters long and
severe. On some days the temperature is higher than
is usual many degrees to the south. The western coun-
tries have a more even climate, but still a rigorous one.

Flora. — The extensive and often magnificent forest,
which covers nearly the whole of this region, is composed
chiefly of pin us sylvestris, mingled with abies picea, and
a. communis ; and pinus cembra is met with towards the
Ural Mountains. Though the species of pine are fewer
here than in the south, the trees are of far finer growth;
a circumstance that occurs also with the eucalyptus in
Van Diemen's Land, where, though there are fewer spe-
cies, the trees grow much larger. Sheltered by the
forest, a dense undergrowth flourishes, of species of vac-
cinium, andromeda, empetrum, rubus, salix, betula, and
arctostaphylos. Conifera% amentacese, saxifragese, cruci-
feree, and ranunculacese, are particularly prominent, and
some members of umbelliferge, caryophyllese, and bora-
ginese, are mixed with the vegetation, but are rapidly
disappearing. An English botanist visiting this region
will find most of the northern plants of his own island, but
will perhaps be more surprised to see what an altered
character a vegetation of similar species assumes here ;
for he will find many plants very common, which were
rare at home, and others before regarded as common weeds
are here prized. Scnecio jocobsea, so frequent a nuisance
in our meadows, is in Norway an object of diligent search.

Several important plants have their northern limits in

THE OCEAN REGION. 457

this region. Quercus robur ceases at 6P, fraxinus excel-
sior 60°, fagus sylvatica 60°, prunus cerasus 57° — 60°, tilia
intermedia 63°, abies comraunis 67°, populus alba and p.
nigra 56°, pinus sylvestris 70°; the ash, alder, aspen, and
juniper, in Norway, reach the arctic circle, or 67°, but cease
near the Urals at 60°.

Alpine vegetation can scarcely be supposed to exist in a
region which possesses so many of its characters, and any
attempts to give it prominence will be attended with very
feeble results. In Lapland, between 66° and 68°, accord-
ing to the statements of Wahlenberg, the Region of Trees
attains 1,800 feet; the Region of Shrubs succeeds to *2,500
feet, and is closed in by lichens and perpetual snow at 3,300
feet. In Finmark, according to Von Buch, at 70°, pinus
sylvestris grows to 730 feet ; betula, larix, and vaccinium,
to 3,100 feet; then cryptogamic vegetation and perpetual
snow at 3,300 feet.

Relations. — The parallel regions in America are filled
with forests of noble trees of abies instead of pinus, mixed
with cupressus thyoides, and occasionally a pine, Crataegus,
or fraxinus ; besides this there is much similarity in the
vegetation.

XLVIIL— THE OCEAN REGION.

Extent. — The shores and shoal waters of the ocean
through all latitudes, from high-water mark to a depth
at present uncertain, but which most probably is incon-
siderable.

Physical Characters. — The medium in which marine
plants live may, in several ways, affect the functions of
those which select it for their habitation. The influence
of the atmosphere is nearly excluded ; and light, even at

458 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

small depths, is greatly obstructed. The saline constituents
must be regarded as essential to their well being, though I
have seen a fucus and a potamogeton growing together in
water of a very slight degree of saltness. In many cases
they evidently display a selection as to their place of
attachment, and usually prefer mud or soft rocks to harder
substances. They appear particularly scarce in coral
islands, perhaps because the coral animal feeds on them.

Climate. — The seasons and temperature have a decided
influence. In the summer months this flora is in great
vigour, and when a season occurs eminently favourable to
vegetation, it is proportionately afffected. From their
geographical distribution it may be inferred that these
plants are sensible of small variations in the habitual tem-
perature. Within the tropics those hving in shoal waters
are surrounded by a temperature varying from 74" to 86".
At greater depths the temperature gradually and evenly
descends, A decrease, however, does not always happen.
In "25° N. lat., when the air was 67" and the surface of the
sea 69°, the temperature at 35 feet was 73°. The tem-
perature at the surface will generally be found to fluctuate
about the mean of the latitude, but is liable to be disturbed
by currents, as is the case with the gulf stream, which so
modifies and warms the climate of the Bermudas. In
high latitudes the surface may be sometimes below the
mean temperature, and an increase occur for certain
depths, but this will rarely exceed 42" or 44".

Flora, — Notwithstanding the uniformity of the ocean,
the facilities of diff'usion, and simple organization of the
vegetable beings which inhabit it, they will be found often
remarkably circumscribed in their limits of growth. The
same laws prevail as on the land, that there shall be every-
where variety, and that under similar circumstances in
widely separated localities there shall be close relations.

THE OCEAN REGION. 459

Looking over, then, this extensive region, the different
deep inlets, gulfs, and seas, will each be found to have
their own peculiar kinds, and sometimes in such numbers
as almost to justify their exaltation into separate regions.
It is said that the species found in the Red Sea are almost
entirely different from those of the coast of Syria, though
separated by so small a portion of land. In our own island
rhodomenia cristata and odonthalia dentata are. confined to
the northern shores; and fucus tuberculatus, laurencia
tenuissima, rhodomenia jubata, rhodomela pinastroides,
iridaea ensiformis, and others, to the southern.

The flora of this region is entirely derived from the na-
tural family of algse, but does not comprehend all its
species, since many prefer fresh waters. Lamouroux has
calculated that the total number of species may reach
5,000, or even 6,000. Fucus and laminaria exist in enor-
mous beds in the high latitudes of both hemispheres. Se-
veral species of sargassum replace the former within the
tropics, where they are often densely crowded on the sur-
face, and generally in an active state of vegetation. Tam-
nophera, caulerpa, gelidium, amansia, and dictyotese are
chiefly tropical. Codium tomentosum is found in nearly all
seas throughout the world. Macrocystis belongs to the
southern hemisphere from the equator to 45° S. lat , and
durvillea and lessonia are likewise limited to this part of
the world. Thaumasia ovalis, a remarkable plant, is found
only at Ceylon. Cystoseira has several species on our own
coasts, and others abound in the northern hemisphere, but
a peculiar group is met with in New Holland, where, Gre-
ville remarks, it is as peculiar as the aphyllous acacise are
on the land.

Relations. — Between the terrestrial and marine vegeta-
tion the link is perfect and complete. Of the latter, the
mass unquestionably find the waters of the ocean essential

7

460 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION.

to their existence. Some, however, of closely allied organ-
ization prefer fresh or sweet waters ; and there are a few
which live indifferently in both. With lichens, hepaticse,
and fungi, they have much structural resemblance, and like
them prefer cold climates, where they all flourish in greater
numbers and luxuriance. Moisture also is necessary to
the existence of them all, and the selection of certain
lichens and fungi of old walls may be due to the saline sub-
stances to be found there, and which the marine plants re-
ceive from the ocean.

INDEX.

Abikgdon Island,!. 192
Acapa Bay, Marquesas, i. 358]
AcAPULco, directions for entering
the port of, i. 143 ; the Boca
Chica, ih. 144 ; anchorage, 144 ;
Point Grifo, ih. ; survey, 145 ;
description of the harbour and
town, 145; San Lorenzo, 144;
Port of San Carlos, 145, 150 ;
Obispo Rock, fort, 146, 151,
153; commercial ruin of the town,
ib.; earthquakes at, 147, 150;
castle of San Diego, or San Carlos,
150, 153 ; ancient commerce, gal-
leons from jNIanilla, present ex-
ports, &c., 151 ; climate and rainy-
season, ib. ; costume, 152 ; dis-
eases 153 ; military defences, 153 ;
manners, and peasantry, 154, 155 ;
robberies, and an execution, 154
Acheen, the Sulphur arrives at, ii.

251, 252; Sultan and rajahs of,

252, 253, 259 ; river, productions,
journey inland, 252, 255; return
of Captain Belcher from the in-
terior, 257 ; supplies, 259, 261 ;
observations at, 260

Admiralty Islands, ii. 78

Africa; the Mozambique coast, ii.
290;. the Cape of Good Hope,
Delagoa Bay, &c., 291

Aleutian allies, or subjects of the
Russians, i. 72

Aleutian Islands, the, i. 71

Alexandre, Mr., i. 313

Alligator Creek, i. 216

Alligators, i. 14, 216, 219, 244

Amapala, volcano of, i. 235 ; its alti-
tude, 236

Amblau, Island of, ii. 108

Amboina, Island and Bay, ii. 104,
108 ; the author's reception at.

and his survey of, 109 ; Fort Vic-
toria, ib. ; cavern in the moun-
tains, 111 ; ceremonies, 112 ;
roads, 114; fishing, ib, ; Dutch
garrison, 115 ; brig of war, 115 ;
shells, 117; government of the
Moluccas, 117

Ambou, Island of, ii. 36 ; king of,
51

America, observations on the former
Spanish states on both sides of
the frontier of N. and S. ; republi-
can states, wars, towns, ports, and
population : New Granada, i.
7 — 10 ; Carthagena, 7 — 9 ; Pa-
nama and the isthmus, 12—23;
San Francisco, revolution, 116;
the old missions in California and
Central America, 117 — 128 ; cho-
lera in, 167 ; reliance of a part of
the population on the friendhip
of England, 134 ; Leon, 166 ; state
ofroads, ife. ; Peru, Lima, Callao,
196; Quito, 21lJ; Chili, 196; the
equador, 22, 208 ; separation of
the states of Central, 232 ; their
present condition, 233 ; line pro-
posed for a canal from the Pacific
to the Atlantic, connecting with
the lakes, 237, 238 ; Costa
Rica, 248; the Kodiacks, N. W.
coast, 284 ; sailing of the surveying
vessels from this continent, 378

America, North, interests of the
United States in the Pacific al-
luded to, i. 52, 55, 66; U. S.
men of war, 196, ii. 242 ; whalers
of, i. 253; ii. 181; surveying
squadron at the Feejees, 38, 46,
48

American missionaries, Sandwich Is-
lands, i. 54, 263; ii. 25 ; seamen,

462

INDEX.

i. 187, 253 ; ii. 4, 181 ; settlers on
the Wallamette and other rivers of
the N. VV. coast, i. 297, 298;
hunters, and peltry, 117, 128,
300,301
America, N, W. coast of, explored,
i. 67—113, 282—309

Amilpas range, i. 157 ; observations
of the position of numerous coni-
cal volcanoes, ib.

Amirantes, the, ii. 285

Amor, expedition against, ii. 177,
229, captured, August, 1841, 232

Amsterdam, island of, ii. 97

Anambas Islands, ii. 241

Andrews, Wr., principal of a college
at Labaina, Sandwich Islands, i.
66

Anna Rlaria Bay, IMarquesas, i. 332 ,
its beauty, 353; Anchorage, i6. ;
survey, 354 ; Pilot's Hill, ib. ; pro-
ductions at this port, 363

Annatom, Island of, ii. 57

Anne, St., Island, Sechelles, ii.
270

Antonio, San, cotton-mill near, i. 29,
i65, 177 ; sugar establishment at,
30, 150, 176

Anunghoy, capture of, ii. 153 ; hills,
176 ; fort, 177 ; towns near, ib. ;
the back channels, ib.

Aor, Pulo, ii. 242

Appendix, ii. 303

Arctic Circle, mud on the shores of
the, i. 76, 81-

Ariadne steamer, ii. 243

Arimoa, Island of, ii. 85 ; natives,
their customs, and canoes, 85;
weapons, 87 ; habitations, 88

Ascension, Island of, ii. 206

Aserradores, island of, i. 27 — 29,
31

Asia Islands, i. 200 ; peak, ib.

Asosusco range, i. 161

Astoria Fort, (Columbia River,) i.
289, 293

Astrolabe and Zelee, expedition of
the, i. 354

Astronomical observations, i. 16,
365 ; ii. 243, 264, &c.

Ato, Ormigero, i. 21, 22

Atooi, island of, its harbour, pro- .
duce, &c., i. 59; scenery and cli-
mate, 67 ; the expedilion revisits
the port of Hanalae, 280 ; signs of
improvement, 281

Aurora Borealis, observations re-
specting, i. 69, 92

Azores, the, St. Michael's, ii. 298

Babyroussa hog, the,ii. 118, 119
Bachelot, and Short, missionaries,

i. 55—58, 270
Balabac, island of, ii. 133
Bale of Cotton rock, ii. 264
Banda Islands ; Manada or Celebes,
JMmdanao, Oby Major, &c., ii.
117
Banga Island, Feejees, ii. 47 ; an-
chorage at, 54
Barbara, Santa, i. 320 ; anchorage,
ib. ; the mission, 321 ; islands
near, ib.
BarfF, Messrs., missionaries, ii. 13,

28
Barlow, Capt. R. N. of the Nimrod,

ii. 186, 214
Barn Island, near Singapore, ii. 246
Barometrical observations on the
Viejo Volcano, i. 162; on the
Apamala Volcano, 236
Barra Falsa, i. 27

Barron, fllr.. Vice-consul at Tepic,
i. 44, 137, 341; funeral of his
daughter, 45
Barrow, Point, ii. 291
Bartholomew, St., i. 329 ; bay and

anchorage, 330
Batahoya, village, i. 213
Bauza's chart, i. 40, 183
Beaver, and its fur, i. 129
Beecher, Major, Quarter-master Ge-
neral, his services in China, ii.
187; his death, 215
Beechey, Captain, R. N. returns to
England from ill-health, i. 3 ; re-
marks by, 372 ; ii. 4, 23
Beef, supplies of, i. 135, 339
Beering's Bav, i. 80
Belcher, Captain, R. N., succeeds
Captain Beechey in the command
of tiie expedition for the survey of
the Pacific, and sails from'Falmouth
in the Echo steam-vessel, i. 4 ;
instructions to, 6 ; sails from the
Port Royal in the Forte for Cartha-
gena, 7 ; blockades New Gra-
nada, 7 ; surveys the Passo Caval-
los, in the Serpent, 8 ; Arrives
in the Nimrod at Chagres, 9 ,
Visits Panama, 12, 16, 22; re-
turns to Gorgona, 20; desciibes
Panama, 23; sails in the Sulphur
to i'aboga, 20, 24 ; hisquarterly ob-
servations, 25, 383 ; loss of his
gig and coxswain, 36 ; sails from

INDEX.

463

San Bias, 45 ; visits tte Sand-
wich Islands, 51 ; adjusts some
affairs with Taraehameha the Third,
52 — 59; refits at Honolulu, 52 ;
sails for Atooi, 60 ; fixes INlount St.
Elias, and verifies the longitudes
fixed by Vancouver, 67, 68 ;
surveys Port Etches, 73 ; also the
mountain and channel at Sitka,
Norfolk Sound, 105; and Noot-
ka Sound, li4; sails to Cali-
fornia, 116, 118 ; surveys the Rio
Sacramento 118, 122, 132 ; his
reports on supplies of provisions,
135, 199, 339 ; receives informa-
tion of her Rlajesty's accession,
142; travels into the province
of Leon, 160 — 180; describes
the hostilities of the Chilians
and Peruvians, 1 96, 203, 20'6 ;
receives despatches from home,
at Panama, 252, and at San Bias
340 ; surveys the coast at Cape
Greville, 284 ; quits the Co-
lumbia River, 311; explores the
gulf of Magdalena, 331; stores
for his proposed return completed,
341 ; settles the disputes of the
king and his subjects at the
Marquesas Islands, 354 — 362;
re-visits Tahiti, ii. 3 ; sails from
MataviaBay, 12 ; visits Raratonga,
15 ; his surveys at Port Reso-
lution Navigator's Islands, 47 —
61 ; surveys Amboina, &c., 102,
116; his operations against the
Chinese,; 138 ; 142—147, 167,
185 ; joins Captain Herbert's
squadron, 149; illness of, 51, 218,
226; is left in charge at Macao,
229, 232; sails from China for
England, 241.

Bembatooka, Madagascar, ii. 287

Benedict, San, Island, i. 346

Best Island, Clarion group, i. 48

Bingham Island, i. 81

Bird Islands, i. 92

Blanco, Cape, i. 25 ,26 ; ii. 297

Bias, San, i. 40, 44

Bocca Tigris, batteries, &c., ii. 177

Bodega Bay, 1.312, 3l6

Bolinas, Cape, ii. 138

Bombay Shoal, Palawan Passage, ii.
134

Bonin group of islands, i. 63

Boqueron Passage, Callao, i. 193,
197

Boreton Passage, ii. 120

Bouro Island andCajeli Bav, ii.l04,
119, 120

Bow, or Ocheow Island, (Palliser
group,) operations of Captain Bel-
cher on, i. 363, 365 — 369; attempt
to bore the coral reef, 370 ; sec-
tion of the island, ib. ; cocoa-nut
trees planted, ib. ; natural history,
371; natives of, 372 ;of their habits
and character, 373 ; their mode
of fishing, 376 ; their burials, 377
Gardensown,38l ; isletand lagoon
382 ; coral reef and tides, 379,382
qualities of the potable water, 383
survey and quarterly observation;
at, 383 ; currents and weather, 382,
384

Braithwaite's Bay, described, i. 347

Brazil or Nicaragua wood, i. 17],
174, 179, 184

Bread-fruit tree, i. 364, ii. 76

Bremer, Commodore Sir J. Gor-
don, in command of our naval ar-
mament at Canton, ii. 138, 148 —
170, 220; his departure for Bom-
bay, 230

Bridge, Mr., farm of, i. 28 ; sugar
establishment of, 30, 160, 165, 176,
229, 237

Britannia, or Six Islands; Port Vic-
toria, &c., ii.78; natives of, 79;
costume, 80; canoes, 81

Bruce, Capt. R.N., of the Imogene,
i. 196, 236

Bugis, native of, ii. 124

Bultige, Island of, (supposed,) ii. 95

Burrell, Brig.-Gen., his command iu
China, ii. 196

Buzacott, Mr., missionary, ii. 15 ;
his residence in Raratonga, ib. 2S

Cade, Mr., consul at Panama, i. 221
Cresalpiiiia echinata, or Nicaragua

wood, i. 171
Cajeli Bay.ii. 104,119; directions
of Horsburgh deficient, 104 ; the
" Mother and Daughter," conical
hills, 105
Cajeput oil, i'l. 120
Calderas village,!. 248
Calentura, malady, i. 175, 176
California, ports, coasts, missions^
and Indians of, i. 116, 118 — 127,
142 ; rivers of, 114, 118—124 ;
trees, fruits, flowers, &c. of, ISO ;
birds and animals, 129 ; affairs of,
116, 133, 137 ; survey of, 252 ; the
Californian government, 316

464

INDEX.

Callao, fortress of, i. 153; the cas-
tles, 196, 198, 203, 205; harbour,
199; roads, and the Boqueron,
193, 197 ; surrey at, 197 ; coast,
199; British men-of-war at, 196,
197; French ships, 197; Chilian
squadron under Comm. Postego,
196; attack of Lima by the Chili-
ans, 197,203

Cambridge frigate, belonging to the

Chinese, blown up, ii. 154, 156

Canadians, the, at Columbia River, i.
294

Cannibals, i. 359, ii. 45, 55, 59

Cano, Island of, i. 25

Canoe of Raratonga, ii. 19; of the
Feejees, 43, 44, 57 ; of New-
Ireland, 76; burial, N.W. coast
of America, i. 292

Canoes; that termed 61'Hg^o, i. 10; hire
of, 11,21

Cantab, Island of, Feejees, ii. 56

Canton, naval and military opera-
tions there, ii. 141, 174 ; list of our
men-of-war, 140, 171 ; operations
in the river, 141 — 146; treaty be-
tween Elliot and Kesben, 147 ;
further operations, 149; First Bar
Fort destroyed, 155 ; masked bat-
tery, 157 ; further operations de-
tailed, 163, &c. 178, &c. ; the
nearer attack upon the city de-
fences, 165 ; the Shameen Fort,
ib.-y the British colours hoisted at
the Factory, 166, 168 ; terms of
truce, 169 ; combined military and
naval attack of, 188 — 195 ; truce
and ransom of the city, 196, 214;
remarks, 233 ; the river staked,
233 ; state of society at, 235

Canyete, and the port Cerro Aziil, i,
199; valleys of, 200

Cape Good Hope, (New Guinea,)
ii.97

Cape of Good Hope, nautical and
magnetic observations at the, ii.
293 et seq.

Cap-sing-moon, the, (Canton,) ii.
222

Caraveli, Mount, i. 21

Cardon, Island of, and anchorage, i.
27, 28, 158, 182

Carew, Capt. R.N., of the Harrier, i.
196, 218

Carimata group, the, ii. 129; pass
the southern island of, ih,

Carlos, San, or Conchagua, i. 226,
234, 238, 244

Carriers, porters, and moferos, i. 11,
22

Carteret, Port, New Ireland, ii. 71
—73

Carthagena, in America, i. 7 ; settle-
ment of tlie dispute, 9

Casalla, Island of, and pearl fishery,
i. 221, 222

Castanet, strung with beaks of the
alca arctica, i. 103

Castanon Island, i. 28

Casualties and deaths during the ex-
pedition, i. 36, 244, ii. 121

Catalina, Punta Santa, i. 26, 180,
1 85 ; survey of, 324

Catlamet River, and the Columbia
territory, i, 298

Cattle ; bullocks, buffaloes, sheep,
and hogs, i. 135, 175, 228, 244,
339, 352, 363; ii. 23, 261, 267,
284

Celebes Island, ii. 117 ; natives of,
124

Ceram, Gillolo, Ternate, and Tidore
Islands, ii.l 17; harbours of Ceram,
120; pass the Island of Ceram,
104

Cerro Azul, i. 199

Cerros, Island of, i. 329

Ceylon, Island of; Point de Galle,
the Basses, Uondra Head, and a
rock, ii. 264 ; the Commandant
Major Griffiths, 265, 267 ; town
and port of Point de Galle, 266 ;
climate and supplies, 267; Colom-
bo and Candy, 267

Chagres, the author lands at, i. 9, 20

Chalmers, Port, 68

Charlotte Bank, the, ii. 241

Chatfield, Mr., Consul-General, i. 31,
34

Chatham Bay, i, 187 ; eastern and
western bays, 189, 190

Chenooks and other Indians, i. 303,
307

Chicarene Bay, watering-place, Rea-
iejo, i. 226

Chiica Point, i. 201; Port, i6. ; val-
ley of, 202

Chili ; invasion of Peru by the Chi-
lians, i. 196,203

China, naval operations in, ii. 138 —
241 ; -d chop which led to a truce-
145 ; treaty with Kesben, 147,
148 ; renewal of the operations,
149, 163; truce at Canton, 168,
sujipoted murders of British offi-
cers and subjects, 170, 189 ; sick-

INDEX.

465

ness among the British, 220; junks

of various denominations, 236 —

240 ; fast boat of smugglers, 238

Chinameca, volcano near, i. 229, 230

Chinandega, town of, i. 160, 165,

176
Chinese admiral's junk destroyed,
ii. 144 ; conduct of their forces
in action, and severe loss sus-
tained by them, 146, 152, 194,
215, 217 ; mandarins, 163, 175,
196, 229, 234 ; language, its cha-
racter, 213; barber surgeon's hand,
anecdote, 145 ; ladies, 175; work-
men artificers, 226 ; want of faith,
217, 230; misrepresentations and
gasconade, 231
Chinhae, fortress of, ii. 232
Chinook Indians ; Choonamis and

Sally, i. 303
Chirique Indians and territory, i. 250
Cholera, i. 167, 172, 176
Chorillas, Bay of, i. 198
Christina, Santa, Island, i. 352
Christians ; of the American mis-
sions, i. 119 ; missionaries of the
Sandwich and Society Islands, 54,
57, 263, 266, 273, ii. 13; spread of
Christianity, 17, 29
Chronometers, care of, and stations
selected for rating them, i. 16,
20, 22, &c., ii. 20, 33, 93, 119,
241, &c. ; observation respecting
them, i. 363
Chuenpee, (the outer defence of the
Canton river,) squadron off, under
Sir J. G. Bremer, ii. 138 ; the island
described, 141 ; attack on Lower,
143 ; restored by Capt. Elliot's
order, 147 ; survey near, 176
Chusan, Island of, ii. 232
Civilization of the South Sea Is-
landers, i. 65. — See Sandwich, Ta-
hiti, I'onga, Vavao, and other is-
lands.
Clara, Santa, mission, i. 117
Clarence Straits, and Stikine River,
treaty between Russia and Eng-
land, respecting territory, i. 299. —
See Appendix
Clarion Island and group visited, i.
48, 348 ; its birds and fish, vegeta-
tion, &c., 349
Clementine, brigantine, affair of the,

i. 52, 55, 58
Climates, seasons, and weather, allu-
sions to, i. 26, 67, 151, ii. 12, 73,
98, 103, 267

VOL. IL

Clipperton Rock, position of, i. 255 ;
Coral Lagoon Island described,
256, 364

Cloud's Island, i. 48

Cocoa Island, New Ireland, ii. 74

Cocoa trees, and cocoa nuts, de-
scribed, i. 13, 189, ii. 19, 74, 248,
271,284

Cocos-de-mer, the rare, ii. 271

Cocos Island, i. 186, 223, 253 ; gar-
den seeds sown at, 191 ; the
result, 254

Colima, town of, and trade, products,
&c., i. 42

Collinson, Lieut. R. N., i, 20, 36, 93,
155

Colnett, Cape, i. 328

Columbia River, i. 114, 128 ; its sur-
vey, 281, 287

Conchaguita, Islands of, i. 234, 243

Conseguina, or Quisiguina, volcano
of, i. 239 ; observations regarding
its eruptions, 240 — 243

Cook, Capt. James, circumnaviga-
tion of, i. 107, 272, 282, ii. 3, 14,
58, 64, 68

Cope, Mr., Consul to the Equador, i.
208,210,220

Coral, i. 256, 367 ; Coral Islands, 364,
369 ; coral limestone, 382

Coralline, formations of, i. 364, 378
— 38],ii. 12, 24,99

Corrientes, Cape, i. 41, ii. 291
Costa Rica, state of, i. 248
Cowloon, peninsula of, ii. 147
Coyuca, paps of; Acapulco, i. 143
Crespos, Los, Islands, ii. 83, 88
Cruz, Santa, Island; also Santa Rosa,

and San Miguel, i. 321
Culebra, Port of, i. 181, 183

Dampier's Strait visited, ii. 100 ;
Point Pigot, 100 ; survey, differ-
ing from charts, 101
Dasbwood, Lieut., R.N., commands

the Starling schooner, i. 20
Dawson, Mr., merchant at Panama,

i. 16
Deer, i. 118, 128, 243, ii. 119
Delaware Indians, i. 117, 128, 133
Desolada, Point, i. 26, 180, 185
Devil's Peak, coast of Peru, i. 201
Dews of Peru and Lima, i. 198
Diamond, Cape; Sumatra, ii. 251
Diavolo, Monies, i. 119,122
Diego, San, port of, kelp bank, &c.,

i.325
Disappointment, Cape, i. 312

H H

466

INDEX.

Dolphin shoal, Tahiti, ii. 3

Domar, Pulo, ii. 241

Douglas, Mr., of the Hudson Bay

Company at Fort Vancouver, i.

289. 293, 300
Drury's Folly, and pagoda, near

Canton, ii. 159
Dutch, islands belonging to the, ii.

108, 117
, Folly, the, river of Canton,

ii. 166

Earthquakes, i. 147

Easter Island, i. 193

Echo, H, M. steamer, sails from Fal-
mouth, i. 4 ; employed as a packet
in the ^V. Indies, 7

Edgecumbe, Cape and Mount, i. 92,
99, 286

Eimeo, Island of, ii. 7, 12

Elias, Mount St., its longitude, i. 67 ;
altitude of, 75, 83 ; sjilendid pro-
spect of the peaks from the sea, 78

Elizabeth Island, ii. 78

Elk range, Rio Sacramento, i. 119

Elk station, for the survey,!. 122

Elks and deer, i. 118, 128,243

Elliot, Commodore J., R.N., Pleni-
potentiary in China, ii. 140, 144,
162, 174, 188, 196, 223, 225,
228, 230 ; treaty with Keshen,
147 ; his meeting with that manda-
rin described, 148; circular of,
180; truce for the ransom of Can-
ton, 196,214

, Lieut. Madras Engineer, his

masjnetic observatory and survey
at Singapore, ii. l3l, 243

Ellis, Captain, R. Marines, his ser-
vices in China, ii. 142

Equador, the, i. 22, 208

Equator, cross the, i. 351

Erromango, Island of, ii. 69

Erronan, Island of, ii. 56

Estero de Lagartos, i. 216

Estero Ileal, river, and marshy plain,
i. 161, 236,238

Estrecho Karkines, river, i. 118, 133

Etches, Port, i. 68, 69, 73 ; Russian
residents, 71 ; fish and oil esta-
blishment, 72 ; fur company, ( Rus-
sian,") ih. ; survey of the jiort, 73 ;
description of the island, //;.;
sunken rocks near Cape Hinchin-
broke, 74

Fairweather, Mount, i. 82, 83
Fansyack, the Sulphur anchors at,

and joins the armament in the Can-
ton river, ii. 138

Farallones, the, i. 114

Farquhar's, and the Six Islands, ii.
287

Fatchan battery, ii. 164, 170; chan-
nel, 176 ; city of, 176

Fatee Creek, Canton river, ii. 163,164,
174,183; anecdote of meeting a
mandarin boat with Chinese ladies,
175

Feejee, group of islands, described,
ii. 36 ; accident to the Sulphur,
37 ; missionaries, 38,51 ; conduct
of commander of the U. S. survey-
ing squadron, 38 ; the king, queen,
and chiefs, of Rewa, 38, 40, 42,
45. 46, 49, 51, 55; survey of
Nukulau harbour, 39; supplies,
and regulations established, with
interesting anecdotes of the man-
ners and proceedings of the natives,
40, et. seq.; town of Rewa, 42;
king's house, 43 ; bourri or temple,
ib. ; canoes, 43. 44 ; feast, on a roast
liog, 44 ; cannibals, 45, 55, 56 ; is-
land regulations, or code, 49 ; im-
plements of war, 50 ; costume, 50
— 52 ; religion discussed, 53 ; war
with the natives of Banga, 54 ; the
natives tall and warlike, 56

Fever, and ague, i. 125, 302 ; ii. 21 ;
account of a peculiar disease at
Raratonga, 20 — 23.

Fire-ships and fire-rafts of the Chi-
nese, ii. 181

Fireworks, rockets, &c., i. 1 10

Fishes, notices of, i. 26, 69, 73, 112,
128, 175, 190, 257,302,349; ii.
269, 289, 291

Fibbing, modes of, i. 112; ii. 114,
258 ; fishing and salt junks, 237

Fitzrov, Captain, R.N., voyage of, i.
192"

Flattery, Cape, i. 304, .306

Flores," General, i. 211—213

Fonseca. Gulf of, i. 161

Forbes, Mr., of 're|)ic, i. 44, 343

Foster, Mr., vice-consul at Realejo,
i. 30, 165, 226

the late Captain, R. N., i.

14

France, her interests in the South
Pacific Ocean, i. 66; French men-
of-war employed in the South
Seas, 55, 354; ii. 4, 113; in the
Indian Ocean, l3l, 135 ; in China,
148

INDEX.

467

Francisco, San, port of, i. 114, 133 ;
the revolution, 116, 133, 137

Eraser, Capt. R.N., in the Nimrod,
conveys the author to Chagres, i.
9, 21

Freshwater Island, i. 48

Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, i. 107
— 114

Friendly, and Society Islands, ii. 3
—13

Fruits, of various sorts, i. 74, 113,
120, 130, 302 ; ii. 32, 91

Fucus giganteus, i. 112, 286, 325

Fur company, Imperial Russo-Ame-
rican, i. 99, 287

Furs and skins, value and descrip-
tions of various, i. 72, 94, 100,
120; American hunters, 117

Gallapagos Islands, i. 192

Galle, Point de, Ceylon, ii. 264

Gamarra attacks Callao, i. 203, 206

Gambler's group, i. 273

Garden Island, Port Etches, i. 73 ;
shrub fruits, 74

Gatun, near Chagres, i. 12

Geby, or Ghibi, Island, ii. 102 ; a
prau or prahu boat, from, 103

Geese, wild, i. 129, 133

Geological remarks, i. 69, 138, 181,
184,323, 336, 339, 343,371; ii.
31, 82, 241, 245, 288.— See Coral.

George Island, and Tres Marias, i.
138

Georges, Mr., his gallantry, ii. 216

Gifiard, Capt., R.N., H.M. brig
Cruizer, ii. 132

Goat Island, ii. l34

Goelviok's Bay, and the Beehive,
New Guinea, ii. 96

Goldsmith, Lieutenant, R.N., ii. 183,
185

Goonung Apee, ii. 110

Goram Island, ii. 117

Gorgona, visits to, i. 14, 20

Gorgonia flabellum, or Venus's fan,
i."l3

Gough, Major-Gen. Sir Hugh, as-
sumes the command of the land-
forces in China, ii. 159, 162, 171,
182, 188,215, 228

Gower's Harbour, ii. 72

Granada, New, blockade of the ports
of, i. 7, 8 ; cessation of hostilities
between England and, 9, 10

Green Island, storm at, ii. 221

Greville, Cape or Point, and island
off it, survey, Kodiack natives,
huts, dogs, and scenery, i. 284

Guadalaxara, commerce and products

of, i. 43
Guadalcanar, Island of, ii. 70
Guadalupe, Island of, i. 137
Guatulco, Port of, i. 155, 156
Guyaquil, town and river of, i. 208,
215, 218, 220; Gen. Wright, go-
vernor of, 210 ; women of, 211 ;
balsas or rafts, 215; houses at,
216 ; farms, 217

Halibut, size of this fish, i. 69

Halkett, Vice-Adm. Sir P., i. 6

Hammond, Cape, i. 75

Hanalae Bay, Island of Atooi, i. 60 ;
the consul, 67 ; fresh visit at this
port, 280

Hanklip, Cape, ii. 292

Hapae, Island-group, ii. 24

Hawaii, or Owhyee, visited, i. 51 ;
the governor Kuakini, 56, 275 ;
conjecture as to the origin of the
Hawaiians, 305 ; the " Hawaiian
Spectator," 304 ; ii. 26

Helena, St., Island of, ii. 294

Helena, St., Cape, i. 181

Herbert, Captain T., R.N., his dis-
tinguished services in China, ii.
142, 149, 150, 154, 156

Herran, General, of Panama, i. 24

Hinchinbrook Island, i. 70 ; the
Cape, and sunken rocks, 74

Hinds, Mr., Assistant-surgeon, i. 44,
211, 303, 342

Hojia, village, i. 33

Holder, Mr. W., gunner, his death,
ii. 121

Home, Sir E., R.N., counsels of, i.
6.

Honda, Bay of, survey at, i. 24, 250

Honduras, Estero of, i. 237, 238

Hong merchants, the, ii. 168

Hongkong, cession of the island to
the English, by the treaty of Can-
ton, ii. 147; its survey by Capt.
Belcher, 147, 177; Sir J. G. Bre-
mer lands and takes possession
of, 148, 229

Honolulu, harbour of, and consuls
and affairs of the Sandwich Islands,
i. 52—60, 259; departure from,
276

Hormigas, the, surveyed, i. 207

Howqua, and his tea-junks, ii. 166—
168

Howqua's Folly, quadrangular fort.
Canton river, ii. 157, 153 ; taken,
159, 233

Huaheine, Island of, its chiefs and

H H 2

468

INDEX.

natives, ii. 5, 10 ; visited, 12 ;
beautiful scenery of, 13 ; mission-
aries at, 13, 28

Hudson's Bay Company, the, i. 289,
295 ; their establishment and farm
at Fort Vancouver, 263 ; doubtful
supplies to men-of-war, 296; rights
of the Company and of England,
298 ; their vessels, 301 ; number
of persons employed by the Com-
pany, and the journey to Hudson's
Bay, 301

Hunters and furs of America, i. 117,
128, 300 ; migratory parties of,
301

Ice, surprising prismatic formation
of, i. 76, 81

Ice, observations on the motion of, i.
81

Icy Bay, description of, i. 79.

Idols, i. 171

Iguanas, mode of capturing, i. 14 ;
their eggs eaten, 15

Indians near Beering's Straits, i.
83 ; of Norfolk Sound, 102 ; of
Nootka Sound, 108, 112 ; the Del-
avvares, 117; of the old Califor-
nian Missions, 117, 119 ; the wild
tribes, 121, 124 ; migratory. 127 ;
their customs, 125, 127; Chiri-
ques, 250; Chenooks,303; neigh-
bouring tribes of the Columbia,
307 ; the Flatheads, 311

Insu, island of, ii. 86

Irving, Mr. Washington, " Rocky
Mountains" of, i. 289, 303

Isabel Island, i, 44

Isalco, volcano, i. 158

Islands, some probably marked on
charts, but unnamed, i. 26, 180,
348 ; ii. 36, 68, 82. 93

, floating, described, ii. 89

.Tamaica, island of, i. 7

Japanese junk, wrecked near Queen
Charlotte's island, i. 303 ; another
wrecked on Uahu, 404

Jobie, island of, (supposed,) ii. 89 ;
canoes, costume, &c., 90 — 93,
94 ; anchorage, 92 ; natural his-
tory of, and vegetation, 89, 94

Jose, San, mission, i. 117, 133

Juan, San, port of, i. 179, 181, 324 ;
mission, 324; the name Juanitas,
ih.

Junks, fast, war. tea, salt, and trad-
ing, described, ii. 236 — 240

Kamtschatka, i. 142

Kave's Island, i. 70, 77 ; Point Le

Mesurier, 77
Kayser, Hayu, and Co., Messrs., i.

341
Kellett, Lieutenant H., appointed to
the Starling, on an expedition of
survey, i. 3 ; is appointed to the
Sulphur, as acting commander, 4 ;
again commands the Starling, 20,
37; his visit to Port Mulgrave,
68, 79, 82 ; survey bv, 183 ; fur-
ther notices of. 211,288, 342, 379;
his services in the Chinese war, ii.
144, 160, 218; survey of Canton
river, by, 174 ; he remains on ser-
vice in China, 240
Kelp, and the kelp line, observations

on, i. 321, 322, 325
Keshen, Chinese minister, his treaty
with Captain Elliot, ii. 147 ; their
meeting at the Second Bar, river
of Canton, 148 ; his disgrace, 150
Kinau, female chief of Oahu, i. 53,
54, 36, 63; her husband Kuanoa
the general, 54 ; he escorts Capt.
Belcher with a guard, 59 ; funeral
of, 260 — 262 ; she is succeeded by
her sister in the government, 263;
her children likely to succeed to the
sovereignty, 274, 273 ; her son
Alexander Rihoribo, 27
King, Vice-Admiral Sir E., in the

Southampton, ii. 292.
King's Island, ii. 208.
Kodiack, coast of, i. 282, 287 ; Rus-
sian settlement on, 282
Kodiacks.the, i. 284
Kotou, the ; or reverence, ii. 175
Kuakini, governor of Hawaii, ii. 56,

275
Kung-kik-tai batteries, and joss-
house, (Canton.) ii. 191

Lachira bay, i. 202

Lagoon Reef, near Raratonga Island,

ii. 24
Lagullas Bank, ii. 291.
Lana, or Rana, Island, i. 51
Lantao, the Sulphur reaches, ii. 138
La Paz, district of, i.334
Larne, H. M. frigate, ii. 240
Latte, island, and peak of, ii. S3
Lemma, northern ; mouth of the Can-
ton river, ii. 138 ; the Lemma
channel, 117

INDEX.

409

Leon, city, catbedral and territory of,
i. 166 ; latitude and longitude 166 ;
products of tills state, 168
Libertad, anchorage off, i. 3^ ; serious
accidents to the Sulphur's gigs,
36, 38 ; the playa, port, and vil-
lage described, 38, 39, 158
Libooka, Feejee Islands, ii 39
Lima, city of, i. 197, et seq. ; dews,
198 ; viewed from the summit of
San Christoval, 197; contest with
the Chilian land and sea forces
narrated, i. 196 ; et seq. 218 ; fall
of, 202 ; baffle, 204, 206
Lin, governor of the province of Can-
ton, ii. 167
Lintin, blockade of, ii. 148
Lithophytes, of, i.371 ; ii.l2
Log, patent, and rotator, i. .50
Long Island, (of Maclure.) ii. 96
Lorenzo, San, ramparts of, i. 21 ;

near Callao, 196 ; island, 198
Los Crespos islands, ii. 83, 88 ;

canoes and traffic, 8-1
Low Island, ii. 133
Lucas, St., Cape, i. 44, 137, 334,
338 ; anchorage and village, 338,
340 ; hills and plains, 539 ; vege-
tation, ib.; San, Island, i. 248
Luis, St., mission, i. 117

Macao, the Sulphur arrives near, ii.

1 58 ; visit to Si r J. G. Bremer at,
149, 170 ; the fort passage, 162,
174 attack of Macao, 163 ; the fac-
tory, 166, 168, 229 ; observations
at, 241

Macquilla or Maquinna, chief at
JNJootka Sound, i. 108 ; his charac-
ter and family, 113, 111, 112

Madagascar frigate, the, i. 8; Hon,
East India Company's steamer,
wrecked near Namo, when Cap-
tains Grattan and Dicey, with the
crew fell into the hands of the
Chinese, ii. 234; island of, 287

Magdalena, Bay, surveyed by Capt.
Du Petit Thouars, i. 142 ; the
gulf or bay, islands, &c., 329 ; St.
Lazarus, Magdalena and Margarita
islands or ranges, 331—336 ; sur-
vey, ib.; exploring of this large
gulf, 331 — 336 ; geology and na-
tural history of, 332 — 338

Magnetic observations in various
parts of the world, recorded, i. 25,
27, 83, 198, 235, 249, 340, 371 ;
ii. 39, 78, 293; declination, i. 40

Magnetic island, near Pueblo Nueva

river, i. 25
Mah6, Sechelles islands, ii. 272, 285
Maitland, Captain, R. N., of the Wel-
lesley, on service in China, &c., ii.
140,153, 120
Majambo Bay, ii. 287
Mala, Point, course by, i. 221
Malacca, touch at, ii. 246
Malays, ii. 116
Malcolm, Major, his services in

China, ii. 229, 230
Maldavia Atoll, the great, ii. 208
Mallicolo, Island of, ii.l5,59, 69
Managua, lake of, i. 161, 165, 173,
236 ; its island of IMomotombita,
165, 171 ; Piedra Gorda, 169 ;
town of, 171, 172 ; marriages, 173
Mangrove woods, and islands, &c. i.

29
Manguera Island, i. 243
Manilla, port and town of, ii. 134
Manzanilla, port of, i. 41, 42
Margarita Island, Gulf of Magdalena,

331, 334, 335
Marquesas, Islands, (See Appendix)

i.351, etseq.; li. 298
Maitiares village, i. 170, 175
Maui Island, i. 51—66, 259
Mauki, island of, ii. 14
Mazatlan, port of, i. 44, 142, 340
Matoke Island, ii. 36
Midleburg Island, ii. 97, 100
Middleton Island, i. 68
Miuuel, San, fair of, i. 226,228, 231 ;

City of, 228, 231
Moa, island of, ii. 86
Molokoi Island, i. 51.
Moluccas Islands, ii. 104
Momotombo mountain and island,

i. 165, 171,182
Montague Island, i. 70
Monterey, harbour of, i. 135, 318
Morro Ayuca, bav, i. 156
Morro Solar, i. 198,202
Mulgrave port, i. 68,79—88
Murciellagos, or Bat Islands, i. 131,
182

Napier's fort, ii. 157, 158, 161
Nativididad, island of, i. 329
Navarete, i. 342
Navigators' Islands, ii. 57 -63
Needle, the, observations respecting,

i. 27
Neishang, attack by the Nemesis

steamer at, ii. 183, 184
Nemesis, Hon. East India Company's

470

INDEX.

steamer, engaged in the naval ope-
rations at Canton, ii. 142, 150,
154, 157, 161, 181, 183

New Guinea, visited, ii. 78 ; reefs,
78 ; natural history of, 83 ; depar-
ture from the islands near, 96

New Hebrides, ii. 56

New Ireland, visited, ii. 71, 75 ;
the Booby passage, 71 ; Port
Carteret, ik, 73; Cape St. George,
and survey of coast, 72, 75 ; Eng-
lish Cove and Gower's harbour,
ib. ; natives, 73, 75; Port Sul-
phur recommended as an anchor-
age, 73; Turtle Bay, 74; Cocoa
Island, ib. ; Duke of York's Is-
land, 75 ; canoes, 76 ; bills, 77

Nevadas, Sierras, i. 12'2

Nicaragua, state and lake of, i. 169,
170, — See Appendix

Nicholson, JNIidshipman, i. 44

Nicova, Gulf of, i. 25, 248

Nieto, General, i. 203, 204, 207

Niger Expedition ; the Albert, Cap-
tain Fishbourne, at Ascension, li.
296

Nimrod, the. Captain Eraser, i. 9, 21

Ningpo, city of, ii. 232

Noessaniva Point, ii. 108

Nootka Sound, i. 86; Woody Point
and Friendly Cove, 107; Indians
of, 108—113 ; fruits, 113 ; old set-
tlement deserted, ib.

Norfolk Sound, i. 86, 89, 92—107

Nublada Island, i. 48

Nuhahivali, island of, 352,363

Nukulau harbour, Ambou Island, ii.
36 ; island of, 37 ; survey, 39, 47,
48 ; the anchorage safe, 48

Oahu Island, and breakers off it, i.
52, 304 ; consuls of Britain and
North America at, 52, 57; mis-
sionaries, 53 — 6'i ; progress of
civilization, population, trade,
&c., 61 — 63 ; island revisited, re-
ception, Diamond Hill, &c., 259;
influence of missionaries, 263, et
seq. ; cultivation opposed, 265 ;
compulsory labour, 266 ; church
missionaries to be desired, 266,
273 ; port charges, 268 ; orphan
school, 270 ; population, produc-
tions, and exports, 272, 276

Organic remains, i. 332

Ororute, island ; of the charts, ii. 14

Otaheite, isiland of, see Tahiti

Otogues, the, i. 221

Otters, sea, and their skins, i. 72,
101

, land, i. 129

Owhyhee Island, i. 51 ; see Hawaii.

Pablo, San, river of, i. 122

Pachacamac Islands, i. 202

Pacific, survey of its shores under-
taken, i. 3 ; meridian distance be-
tween the Atlantic and, 16 ; the
north-west swell, 351

Padres, the, or missionaries, i. 22,
117,326

Pagodas, Chinese, ii. 159 ; the five-
story pagoda. Canton, 192

Palawan Passage, the, ii. 132, 154 ;
shoals, 134

Palliser Islands, described, i.364

Palm, fermented juice of the, i. 161

Palraerston, Viscount, i. 197

Palo J\Iatea, near Gorgona, i. 14
I Pan d'Azucar Island, (^Sugar-loaf,) i.
248

Panama, government of, i. 10; isth-
mus of, ib.; conveyances to, 11 ;
honesty of the people, i&. ; arrival
at, 16', 21, 221 ; sail from, 252 ,
gulf of, 221

Papagayo, gulf of, i. 170, 179

Papagayos, strong breezes so named,
i. 26, 169, 185

Papeete Bay, and pilot ; Tahiti, ii.
4 ; the new channel, 12

Parker, Rear-Adm., K.C.B., arrives
in China in the Sesostris steamer,
ii. 228

Passo Cavallos, near Carthagena,
explored, i. 8

Paul, harbour of St.,i. 282, 285

Payta, town and port of, i. 207

Pearl fishery, described, i. 2-Jl, 222 ;
Pearl Islands, 252

Peat soil, i. 129; a peat island, ii.
89

Pedro, San, bay of, i. 322

Pelecanus aquilus, or frigate -pelican,
i.49, 189

Pell, Commodore O., i. 7

Peltry, trade in, i. 72, 94, 100, 120

Peru, contest with Chili, i. 196, et
Sfq. 202 ; British relations with,
197

Peyton, Commodore Sir J., i. 7 ;
blockades Carthagena, 8

Phaeton ajtherius, or tropic bird, i.
49

Phij)ps, Cajje, i. 82

INDEX.

471

Piedra Branca, or white rock, ii.
132

Pigeon Island, Dampier's Strait, ii.
101

Pigot, Cape, Islands of Dampier's
Strait, near, ii. 100

Pinang, governor of, ii. 242, 248 ;
the Sulphur sails to, 248 ; town
described, 248 ; temperature, en-
virons, &c., 249, 250

Polynesian Islands, civilisation and
interests of the, i. 273

Pomare, Queen of Tahiti or Otaheite,
ii. 5, et seq. • her residence of
Papawa, 5 ; her husband, 6; her
character and personal appearance,
11

Population of Spanish America, and
of the present Free States, i. 23 ;
of the Sandwich Islands, 272

Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 7

Pottinger, Sir Henry, Bart., Pleni-
potentiary to China, his arrival, ii.
228

Pouce and mountains in Norfolk
Sound, i. 92, 99

Pou-kik-tai, or the Hill Fort, Canton,
ii.l92

Praliu, or prau,a cauoe of remark-
able build, ii. 103

Predpriatie Island of Kotzebue, i.
363

Providence Island, and dangerous
reef, ii. 286

Pueblo Nue va, river from, i. 25, 249 ;
vilhige of, 168, 176; productions,
249, 250

Pulo Bouro, ii. 251

Puna Island, and Punta Espanola, i.
208

Punta Arenas, i. 248

Punta de los Reyes, i. 317

Purdy's Island, "ii. 78

Queen Charlotte's Island, i. 304
Quentiu, Port San, survey, i. 328

Raratonga Island and missionaries,

ii. 14, 15—23
Realejo, port of, i. 25, 27, 177, 226
Reciffe, Cape, ii. 291
Refuge, Port, anchorage of, ii. 24,

et seq.
Resolution, Port, ii. 57
Reynes, Puenta de los, i. 114
Rimac, river, i. 198
Riou, Point, and Island, not to be

found near Icy Cape, i. 78 — 81

Riou's Island, or Rooheoah, i.351
Rocket operations, in surveying, i.

16, 17,21, 23
Roman Rocks, ii. 292
Rose Island, i. 68
Ross, Rear-Adm., in the President,

i. 197
Russell, Lord Edward, his treaty

with the Sandwich islanders, i. 59,

60
Russell, Mr., and the affairs of New

Granada, i. 9
Russia, ships of, in the Pacific

Ocean, i.67 ; Russian colonists at

Sitka, &c., 71, 83, 93—106, 299

Sable furs, i. 72

Sacrameno, Ilio, survey of, i. 118

Sacrificios, the, i. 155

Sago-tree, the, ii. 118

Salanas, Gulf, and Island of, i. 180,
182, 184

Salayer Island and Strait, ii. 121

Salt Junk Creek, the. Canton, ii. 157

Salvador, San, road to, i. 31 — S3

Samborodon, town of, i. 218

Sampanchow, river of Canton, ii.
1.0, 163

Sandwich Island, ii. 70

Sandwich Islands, i. 43

Santiago, river, i. 249. — See Pueblo
Nueva.

Sea, milkiness of the, i. 364

Sea-otter, the, i. 72, 101

Seasons: heat, i. 151; ii. 215; fine,
268 ; the rainy, i, 124, 151,
223, 226 ; ii. 73, 94, 98, 177 ; the
bad, i. 26; &c., &c.; " the Full
and Change," remark, ii. 103

Sebastian, Cape, ii. 287

Sechelles Islands described, ii. 270.
Port Victoria, or Mah6, Sulphur
village, cocoa-nuts, survey, &c.,
270—272 ; old French residents.
273 ; account of the islands, 274 ;
monsoons, 277 ; currents, 277 ;
history of the cession to the British,
279; the capitulation, 280.

Senhouse, Captain Sir Le Fleming,
R.N., ii. 153, 170, 177, 186, 188,
196, 2l4: his death lamented,
219: Funeral, 220.

Sepoys, and Bengal volunteers, ii.
152, 153, 190

Sharks, i. 50, 139, 257 ; ii. 289

Shells, and conchology, i. 139,332,
et seq., 338, ,382; ii. 31,75,82,

472

INDEX.

95,119, 291; tortoise-shell, 77 ;
a nondescript-sliell, 89
Shelvocke's, Shelvoes, or Shovel

Island, i. 137
Shoals, reels, banks, and rocks ; no-
tices of certain, (near Cape Blan-
co,) i. 26 ; near Port Mulgrave,
88 ; false semblance of reefs and
of rollers, explained, 351 ; coral
reefs, 379, 382 ; Tahiti, ii. 3, 4 ;
Lag-oon reef, Raratonga, 24 ; the
Pratas reef, 138 ; the Romania
shoal, 242; Royal Captain shoal,
133; Bombay shoal, l34 ; Bale
of Cotton Rock, Ceylon, 264;
dangerous reefs near Providence
Island, 286 ; at the Feejees, 37;
New Guinea, 78, 95
Silkworm, mulberry-trees planted in
the Sandwich Islands for the,
276, 281
Simon's Bay, ii. 294
Simpkinson, Midshipman, i. 44
Singapore, the Sulphur reaches, ii.
129, 242 ; improvements of the
town, 131 ; vessels in the roads,
131, 242 — 244; bread or biscuit
baked by Chinese at, 244; Cli-
mate, 245 ; Geology, i&. ; produc-
tions, t6.; hotels, 246; water, i6. ;
survey, 131 ; commerce of Eng-
land, China, &:c., at, 131
Sitka, the channel and fort of, i. 93 —
96; Mr. Alexander, secretary,
comes on board the Sulphur, ib. ;
the governor, Captain KoupreanofF,
ib. 105 ; natives of, 94, 100, 303 ;
Russian fur establishment, 93 — 95,
106; trade, 95—101, 287; go-
vernment-house, 96 ; arsenal, ib. ;
small-pox, 98; church, ih.; sur-
vey, 99 ; native chief, 102 ; cus-
toms, 103 ; Castanet, ib. ; tomb,
104 ; Russian lady, 105 ; the
Sulphur returns to, 285 — 287 ;
treaty, 299 ; Baron VVrangel, 299
Small-pox, ravages of the, i. 128,

293
Snakes, water, (Columbia River,)

i. 291 ; sea-snakes, ii. 89
Snow, mountains covered with, i. 79
Society Islands, the, ii. 3 — 13
Socorro group of islands, i. 48 ; sur-
vey of, 346 ; botany, 347
Sonsonate, volcanos near, i. 158
South-sea Islands, a treaty between
England and the king of the Sand-
wich group, i. 60, 64, 66; due

respect to the British flag enforced,
58, 60 ; English, and other set-
tlers, 54, 63 ; need of the intro-
duction of clergymen, 65 ; schools
for native children, taught the Eng-
lish language, and the useful arts,
65 ; re-visit to, 268 ; affair of the
Marquesas, and the missionaries of
that group, 351 — 361
Spain, the expulsion of the Spaniards
entails commercial ruin on the
once flourishing ports of the Pa-
cific, i. 146 ; see America

Speck, Mr. Colin, mate, i. 38 ; lost
at sea, 244 ; in charo-e of the Cle-
mentine brigantine, 55; and of
the Victoria, 180

Starling schooner, i. 3, 4, 82, 143,
281, 302, 312, 349; ii. 39, 72,
222 ; struck by lightning, 133 ;
ordered to join the Sulphur at
Macao, 138; her arrival, 140;
in action at the Canton River,
batteries, &c., 146; remains on
service in China, 241

Steam navigation, its results for dis-
tant civilization, i. 23, 238, 287

Steam vessels, the expenditure of
coal should be regulated by the
distance to be performed before
obtaining a supply, i. 5

Storms at sea, ii. 133, 285, 289;
Typhoon, 220, 223 ; et passim ;
the two plenipotentiaries in ex-
treme peril, 222—225; tornados
experienced, 297 ; on land, i. 33

Strachan, Mr., of Manilla, ii. 135

Stuers, Colonel and Madame de,
Amboina, ii, 108 — 116

Sturge, Mr., i, 6

Suckling, Cape, i. 70; supposed
river near, 75, 77; remarkable
pyramids of ice near, 76 ; large
piles of driftwood, and timber, 77 ;
northerly current, 77 ; westerly
currents, 78

Sugar plantations and manufacture,
1. 30, 43, 160

Sulphur, K. M. ship, in company
with the Starling schooner, sails
on an expedition for the survey
of the coasts of the Pacific Ocean,
i. 3 ; at the Island of Taboga, near
Panama, 17 ; Captain Belcher as-
sumes the command, 20, ii. 286 ;
loss of her rudder at the Feejees,
37 ; arrives at Fansyack, 138 ;
operations of the, 146, 154, 162,

INDEX.

473

186, 188, 223 ; his instructions to
sail for England ; increased pay
allowed Ler crew, 299

Sulphur spring, i. 174

Sumatra, Island of, ii. 251

Survey, the ; operations connected
therewith, near Panama, i. 21,
22; magnetic island, 25; Realejo,
30, 236 ; Port Etches, 53 ; Mounts
St. Ellas and Fairweather, 83 ;
Sitka and Mount Edgecumbe,
92, 105; Friendly Cove, Noot-
ka Sound, 114 ; Rio Sacramen-
to, 118 ; trigonometrical survey
continued, 122, 132, 187 ; of
the Amilpas volcanos, 157; of
the Viejo volcano, 162 ; coast
from Salinas to Realejo, 182, 187 ;
at Callao, 197, 199; Gulf of Fon-
seca, 226 ; Punta Arenas, or Gulf
ofNicova, 248; R. Santiago, 249 ;
Columbia River, 281, 287 ; Cape
Greville, 284 ; Sitka, 287 ; Port
San Quentin, 329; Gulf of Mag-
dalena, 331 ; at the Marquesas,
354; Bow Island, 383 ; Amboina,
ii. 109, 116; Vavao, Tonga Is-
lands, 33; Canton River, 174,
176 ; Acheen, 260 ; Feejee Islands,
31 ; Navigators' Islands, 57 —
61 ; General Remarks, 286 ;
New Ireland, 72 ; Dampier's
Strait, 101

Smyth, Captain R. N., of the Gre-
cian, ii. 294, 296

Taboga, Island of, observations on,
i. 17, 24, 221, 252

Tacapa Bay, Taioa, i. 358, 362

Tahiti, improvements of this island,
i. 62, 270, 273, 340 ; Point Venus,
ii. 3, 12 ; survey observations, 4;
the queen, her husband, and Ota-
heitean chiefs, 4 — 11 ; Hula-hula
dance, 9 ; manners, and present
condition of, 11 ; missionary esta-
blishment, 13 — 17, 22—27; the
sabbath observed at, 27

Taioa, bay of, Marquesas, i. 354 ;
Dispute with king Moana, 376,
et seq.

Tamehameha III., king of the Sand-
wich Islands, i. 56, 57 ; his letter
to Captain Belcher, 55 ; reception
by the king, and consultation re-
specting the missionary establish-
ment on Oahu, 57 ; his personal
appearance and demeanour, ib. ;

his rule characterized, 63, 64, 65 ;
he is present at the funeral of the
female chief Kinau, 260 — 262 ; the
royal race enumerated, 263 ; the
good disposition of the king, 269 ;
account of king Kauikeouli, and
the present royal family, 274, 276,
281

Tanna, island of, ii. 56, 57, 69

Tasheis, Nootka Sound, i. Ill, 113

Tcbiniat, gulf of, i. 282

Teas, at Canton, ii. 168, 169. Tea-
junks, or boats, 239

Tehuantepec, gulf of, i. 40, 156

Telica range, i. 161

Ticks or garrapatas, of the woods of
Panama, i. 16, 177

Tiger Island, i. 243

Islands, ii. 121

Island, Canton River, ii. 154,

176

Toanoa Channel ; Tahiti, ii. 4

Token Bessy, island group of, i. 120

Tonga Islands, the, ii. 15, 24

Toobooai, coral of, i. 369

Tres Marias, Islands, i. 137, 138

Truce Hill, of Canton, ii. 214

Tsingpoo, temple of, (Canton,) ii.
188

Turner, Cape, i. 82

Tycocktow battery. River of Canton,
ii. 141

Ul'oa, castle of, i. 153
Ulloa's voyage, i. 23
Urville's, D.', French Captain, voyage,
i. 354 ; ii. 113

Vallejo, Signer Chico, i. 161, 165
Vavao, Island of, ii. 20, 24 — 33
Velas, Cape, i. 185
Velthoen's Island, ii. 120
Victoria Channel, or the New Chan-
nel, river of Canton, ii. 182
Point, in the R. Sacra-
mento, i. 121, 122
Viradores, the, i. 183
Virgins, Bay of the, i.329

Wallamette River, American settlers

on the, i. 297, 301
Wanchow, Island of, ii. 222
Wangtong, operations at, li. 144 —

146
Waygiou Island, Dampier's Strait,

ii. 100
West Bay, near Chatham or Eastern

Bay, i. 189, 190

474

INDEX.

Wliampoa Reach, ii. 157, 162, 233
Win<iham Island, i. 61.75, 77
Wood, Lieutenant, R.N., i. 347

Yamna Island, ii.94, 97

Yang, the Chinese general, ii. 247

Yerba Buena Bay, i. 114, 122, 133,

318
Yylas del Key, i. 221, 223, 252

THE END.

LONDON:

I'RINTED BY O. .1, PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.

Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process.
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide
Treatment Date: Dec. 2004

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