Soe a a a S2e At ee ost oe Wea Ai DELS D bhhes REgeuee tsa; pres vasessy yy ss ¥ 7 (i ors, na » adn ry i yy ts sate Spreeveyes reser shear gee aebsiery perce reaver te Veresseee asvetaege veegee eT EAT K) veereeyee Za¢esesa gatese vypaevere Pee bas eased eereaarate Putaagea sorreaay saeved rf Vosaseatrssvetg WOSTETTTEREL TITTLE Veteseeers 4 Soveateespabaagevedze EUR TREES AE ee evecaeteseedsaa debates aavesary i ‘ pened sae a eae ee phase seed siaseeay : y We Y : esse esse es A } Sebapeecagsesaaisesasa Na ROOST: . 4 jp abaaeads a Ls J : a8! A $ ASA open Peavesayeveeeayes ts : se biede Y dart heute t R ; Veraeee eat sbbasbes ae gee eee bbageee E eee eabedbeasaerarnerare : Aus RY, 5 TARII RT TAARAS bavedegnebinreandonreda a pees abaasrett Tiay bereeebes i Tomet : : ; "Tr oyaart x reebs arte t eee : aebagadbeedeneeerenceae rhea bsaebrereeeets an COG : ate RARALED gat r spats LISLE CLEA peabrhaebeetecete Smithsonian Institution Libraries Given in memory of Elisha Hanson by Letitia Armistead Hanson t Le a i x \ ( Nk f } f ; N's f a i a8 96) 4 Mle ‘ ic te * ica thy phe @ >» ALH THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AN ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY Editor GILBERT H. GROSVENOR Associate Editor JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Assistant Editor WILLIAM JOSEPH SHOWALTER Contributing Editors A. W. GREELY ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Arctic Explorer, Major Gen’! U. 8. Army DAVID FAIRCHILD C. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of Sciences ee otpeniculiyral Explorations, O. H. TITTMANN Former Superintendent of U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HUGH M. SMITH Commissioner, U. S. Bureau of Fisheries ROBERT HOLLISTER CHAPMAN N. H. DARTON U.S. Geological Survey WALTER T. SWINGLE FRANK M. CHAPMAN Vol. XXVIII—July-December, 1915 _ pase —— O —~ nT Lis Nila. ~~ WiAi ft “EM MOUNIA A / COPYRIGHT 1916 BY | THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC oa nov 9 1981 | } HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL). me LIB PARIES WASHINGTON, D. C. Snel WASHINGTON, D. C. PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INC. 1916 CONT ENS Page Mime icone di four Colors... 6... 8. sed. cee cv casas dese ecens Size, 28 x 30 inches Channel Ports—And Some Others, by FLoRENcE CRAIG ALBRECHT...........2000ceee: I The Wonderland of California, by HERMAN WHITAKER......0.0ececcccececceceececes 57 Pimeaieamcame Birds, by Henry W. HENSHAW..-.- 22522... 2253020 ne ss oe eee 105 Naive smecanstormation at Panama, by GEORGE SHIRAS, 3RD...:.. 200.5. 050ce000e gece 159 sihee\VVatiare on @©ur Eastern Coast, by JoHN Oliver LA GORCE...........0...000006 195 Historic Islands and Shores of the 4{gean Sea, by Ernest Lioyp HArRISs............. 231 ato nbvehPORE NGE CRAIG ALBRECHT. co.cc cs sc 'cle wl stewie c se is 6s ates sowie Ge leee ee Mees 263 Caccecmemmuoday. by GEORGE Hiccins MOSES... 64.6. s cee Se eee sence eas cobs eee un 205 Paanenia ang the Armenians, bysHESTER DoNALDSON JENKINS............0..00.00-00: 320 opmantiy ate Eivotal State, by JAMES HowARD GORE.: 2.0... cee bc cae eae e es 360 ites sesuiics of France, by ARTHUR STANLEY RIGGS. .... 000.0 bee o ce we bec es cece es 391 aaa MEDICOM ENT MCE sso. coe esse enya ee edie al win aoe RS Re DORE Ree as era wls 491 Sie tlio eM II OL OW ITZ EL LAT, << sevice a o lee oes cier Riee sig ie Sale « Oe wo es waa ea ee 503 Pee craamieocnst lacie, by JOHN D, WHITING... 2... - scoe8 ss sdim cae ws beac doe ble 511 SLESRE S Pere TRS UNS eae a la Se nN Ge re cee I to oe 567 Stcmomeminnide, by FRANKLIN K. LANES. ..00.0. 06 Sac du ce esd sac ue wen sceweus 589 ee INDEX FOR VOL. XXVIII (Juty-Decemper), 1915 (ENTRIES IN CAPITALS REFER TO ARTICLES) INK Page Adalia, EEryeies Tl.) 3 JSS eee eee 258 Liu T DSS ct 261 Lg Pi TH. Ts eee 257 BOPGEPISs Ri TSE ee eee eae 261 fle QIGSISRT NE Gee ee 261 Sife wrested Fir 260 sis ti, (Leo Sa 259 Aintab. Stites fo SUSE 2 eee 346, 347, 348 Alaska, ; Org) GS02) Ste c ee eee 58: Farm scenes in, illus........... 580, 582, 585, 588 anise Tet ip VS. A oe re 602 (S4CLE2. 2. Ti -52-<-..---5 350, 351, 353 Charictenshest Gl= 7 cc. soe 2 a2 Herds ee wee 334 Grievances of......---- Joncece eecie-soeescee 353 Histonesl appearance. Os. = -- = sain =a oe = = = = 345 Danemapepabins. = oe. ane eee Ge keke oh wee = 350 Mentiatiqualttys Gia 5 as nor oo nae eiataeo 337 PatniGhsne (Gb sce cae oe ee alee Sake ee we 3390 Persecdhon Offs sooo ae ee ce ee aes 337> 339- 341 Russias policy, towardcis. 625522 facts ofan = cise 356 Scenes rom life vei, lus: 232.5226. 336, 338, 3590: 351: 353: 354 Ariass shrance: sIMusie cc) fast sana eens eee ye 500 Asia Minor, Ascheolosical interest Of. 222-2. - 3256.4. 4--+- = 232 Athens, Greece, Acropolis, View Oi WS es eee Ses weiner 296 Classic remains ai, ibys Se se ee Oe sick erese 300, 301, 302, 303, 305, 306, 309, 310, 311, 320, 321 WERE s 2 5)-) aoe me pie alee 299, 303, 304; 305 Sites Gi gsc tae Eee eee See RE 308 RETNA MES Sot ra aa oie 2 Se be SO EE 313 ““Hadrian’s AGUCHNCE -oe a aise sas oS see 307 EVGHSesn Uist ee Sans ele ee ee ee ees 308 Moder ASpects Of-.550 oe 0s ascleeenck een see 290 Resgaelace ab gM ase ee alee eee 207 Social Sa oe ee ee en 308, 313, 315 Views silns jc so aos tor case ne 316, 317 Universtigc ars mis oo 203. oe oes cee 298 Wihertanw Gertonde = en cece een 86 MASA EASES VN CR Toy fe ecco aie eye a Se te eae 86 REMOTE ERED te sts ae aialale Ope Ole ra ee ine oe eee tee 395, 465 Apalon hich ilis. fos one see ee eRe 98 Agaietind # NN rAncener cc! ce se ee Oe ee 434 whcl 3c Bakersfield, California, Ol held sallas. 235 oS eee ee i ele ee Ne 62 Balance Rock, southern France, illus............ 475 Rardezag. NEMIGHIa i) fais Sore See ee ee ee 341, 343 SSS eae ee ee Se Eee ae oC 73 Bates Vanipinessc.s tee oo oes be ee eee ee 175 Bayeux tapesiry.-..-.-.--+.+2+----------- eee 396 Bean) Brammelstorave ys. to2 2 ep ae been ee oe 398 Beane er anceres eee ete oe ee en oe 471 BEAUTIES OF BRANCH (Pie oe a oars oe 391 Bed; Av Bretansy Wists 2: oe ccces eee aoe came 423 Birds, Game, American, Avocet, Wescmneds Sesser veo ae lore aa ee 147 RNS Ee bee Po Fe cer AE 5 We Ma ee 728 Baldpate. Desenbede oy s220 ce eae ee ee IIo Mistreated os tee ne ee eee ae Tit Barrow’s Golden-eye, Meserinests, <5 So Soo ete es es iI4 HPnGteitent es Oo ee a = Se eee ee Tis Bob-white. Desir Se Gir 5 ees ee ME A I4i aM Siete re eet ee 140 Brant, Deseret EAS 957505 Shears eee A oe re 120 tilnstrated< 5-2 22 2-eo- Siaiatatate etek ete a I2t Brant, Black, Desca tet bse te oe ils Se 120 MER SEr reeks Uh ames yee Gee eee on eee I2I Buiiiehead. MES CRIREH soe sce ese eee cons oe il4 beisbra ben ge ne Here ee ee ei, ones TI5 Canvasback, Described, 52252052. piste cals Sins acote ck ee aie Ii2 Bi SPe ates oe = Sa ee ee Pe 133 Clappes Rail. ESGRINCI Sere eect mr Rent 122 Msi eee ee oe ee ee 123 VI THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Birds, Game, American, oot, Described Illustrated Crane, Sandhill, Described Illustrated Whooping, Described Illustrated Curlew, Eskimo, Described Illustrated Hudsonian, Described Illustrated Long-billed, Described Illustrated Dove, Mourning, Described Illustrated Dowitcher, Described Illustrated Duck, Baldpate, Described Illustrated Barrow’s Golden-eye, Desenbedea.w aye treater Illustrated Black, Deseimibe de asreatiosieies eerste ses Illustrated Bufflehead, Described Illustrated Eider, King, Described Illustrated Eider, Pacific, Described MTS trated seers ces cree cele ens Fider, Steller’s, Described Illustrated Eider, Spectacled, Described Illustrated Fulvous Tree-duck, Described Illustrated Gadwall, Desenibe diicc soviess oetels isle one ns Illustrated Golden-eye, Described Illustrated Golden-eye, Barrow’s, Described Illustrated Greater Scaup, Described Illustrated Harlequin, Described Illustrated Labrador, Described Illustrated Lesser Scaup, Desenibeduetyigec5 3 en eee ek Illustrated Mallard, Mesenibed) escictes ne cadeee Bec Dlustratedenn involve see wee Merganser, American, Described lustratediic ccc see Merganser, Hooded, Described Illustrated i ry Ce rr) 2 ry rr eoer eee ee ee eee eto ® ee ee eee eee ee see ee oe er eee eee eee ee ee eee Ce Ce ee eee e ec eee eee reer eee ee eo ee ee ore ee eo 2 Cee i i ) eee eee se ee ote wo ewe eee eee eee eee eee e ee eee se ee eo eee eee cose eee eee ec eee eee ecece eee eee eee ee oe coe eee eee we eee eee ecw ec ee eee ee eee oe ecco eet coe eee ee ee cece ere eco cee ee oe ew eoceec cero ee eo oe ooo eee este cee eee ee ee eo eee eee ee eo eee ow eee ececeo re ee eee eee eee ee eee o et eee eee eee eee eer cee eee ew eoeecec reese ee ee eee ecoece eee eect eo eee ee ee eee eee eee ew ew CC a ee St ee Td SOO OOD Coan O00 Gc. <9) ie) @eslv lazer el wile) leliejie)leltells PO OOOO OO O10 6 Oso ooo CU FOROSOROSORCHIONUnO Meco Geo Described Illustrated OOD OOS CON 0 00 DG o ale) 0: (@ © 0 wis 0 000 © 0 ie 0 © ‘eke (@).@}re) |e) =) («4 \°! 2:0) elle) e) alle a) Felieieiesiel.eliene ejiel.e) ieee) « Dor OOOOoO WOO OOOO Oo ©, '2) e\/\8) (©, w 16,10} e) 1010) sie! ‘a 6; (° Page Birds, Game, American, Duck, Old Squaw, Described Illustrated Pintail, Described Illustrated Red-head, Described Illustrated Ring-necked, eli) (s' ieee) (aie wie le (elfel le) alia Described anaes Illustrated Ruddy, Described eee Illustrated Described Illustrated Illustrated Scoter, Surf, Described Illustrated Scoter, White-winged, ee ee ee ew ew Described soa Illustrated Shoveller, Described lilustrated: seems Teal, Blue-winged, Described Illustrated el felis) taicela i slle: oheshe) [el o/s lel (oiie! OOOO OO 6 O15 oe ee ee ee eee ee se ewe ood, Described Illustrated Eider, King, Described Illustrated Pacific, Described Ithustrated Spectacled, TOPO OOOH 6.5 «ine jielruie! alteiie DOGG 0D 45 IDeserilxegl 5555556-- Illustrated Steller’s, Described ae Illustrated Gadwall, Describeduessarianiee Illustrated Gallinule, Florida, Described eee Illustrated Purple, Described eee Illustrated Godwit, Hudsonian, Described! a55. 5.45% Illustrated Marbled, IDeserilaeal j25b06560 Illustrated Goose, Blue, Described eerie Mtstratedie sae Brant, Described seroeee Mlitistga techno Brant, Black, Described sneer Illustrated . ORO ONO Oedao.0 Ce ey CONICS ORC 9O) Onc ©) (0 (e Jel hel eile le see ee eee Birds, Game, American, Goose, _ Cackling, Desertbed: 2) 5... Nillustiated: <..). << Canada, Deseribed ....... Nillastrated’...>. << Emperor, Described ....... ithustrated =... .. Snow, Weserihed: =... os: Wilustrated -..... W hite-fronted, Weseribed: 2:2... .< iikastrated 243%... Grouse, Dusky, DMescerihed os. ..s.:. Milizstrated <<... Franklin’s, Described -...... Wikastyated ....- . Rufted, Deseribed: :...... Miltastratedi). a. .- Sharp-tailed, Wesenihed! V5). <<. litltastrated: =... Spruce, Described ....... liiltsstrated =: .... Heath-hen, Described]... i. liiitistrated! 2...) Killdeer, Described ..-.:.. Mkastrated. =... .. Knot, Described ....... Uiltistrated =..... Mallard, Deseribed! .. ...-.. PWikustrated ....... Merganser, American, Described 2... ..~ Wiltistrateds . 5. us. Hooded, Desenibed: 2.2.2... Milustrated 3.2.5. Red-breasted, Described 2...... illustrated ...... Pheasant, Ring-necked, Weseribeds.5.... Wilastrateds ..22. 5. Pigeon, Band-tailed, Deseribed ....... Miltstrated <<... . Passenger, Described ....... WMlastrated: 02... < Pintail, Described ....... WMlustrated 6.5... Plover, Black-bellied, Described ....... Mikastrated |: .... Golden, Described ....... Illustrated ...... Upland, Described ....... Tilustrated ........ Prairie-chicken, Described 2 2... Illustrated Be ao Ptarmigan, White-tailed, Described ....... Wilftistiuated: 3. 6... Willow, Described 4. s.c1<.4% Milltistrated: ve... . INDEX FOR VOLUME XXVIII, 1915 VII Page Page Birds, Game, American, Quail, Bob-white, iDeswrelteal v6 3 culoeaeer cin oi Dic cla clo miaidian or 141 MMtaStrate eevee eet es ciate tl sh eccl eke os aes 140 Chestnut-bellied scaled, Wesel ede tchacee ereraicialereislave cite) ciciers co eieere eh 139 Melittstrate dex ae sweat ctorcie fyetewsvort cies lone aistios 138 Gambel’s, IDES@MlNAGl Gamo oecemloue aeica@os. ced ommom me 139 TinGeesy Reve Met eay aigerecteasic cic GG Dreia ceo Oe CrOtEaeas 138 Mearn’s, IDYSG (Siti bVeGl> feeeeg eet earn Gicciecolaeors ioc olorcre I4I Milterstazerte Clee eees cos cre cusvere 1 olevesacah syancseveue sone 140 Mountain, IDeserilyecl soomsooeaeomoosnbouuocoddoonT 139 HUN es tence Glaser caes Srece a Shays otesar ete muctelonevets lehetecegae 138 Scaled, Described ans ser eisisisie re she/sraie lhe ceclnroe 139 lillikeiareenwech “Aicera oe entciene Gc ouicere cine Oreo 138 Scaled Chestnut-bellied, DESCrilb edi racy-seteie cuovaneie essere) ierercnseey ayalelerolels 139 AN aISEra te ter ade ctieeecteteeireracwe aie seekevstion eters 138 Valley, Described sen o- it o.ciaeierti owe Soerece Skee Giese 139 Ties Erraitie Alaa) sevens ctepetre sie tienes t= Greveundsnclcuesers 138 Rail, Clapper, IDEereil veer ah omiaeke Goro SCO Conc 122 MN tISERATE CE puerctoy sar Sie Siete rsd snersie eis wie Gretna 123 King, Described. co. rane eiele steve a sceccl aie wena ee Yoro xe 122 WATS BE AGETE aechsecco roc ie ersenwe oieteroraus ane aarcueke 123 Virginia, Wesenibed Iti ces cere aco etets ick eme aeons cuot ells 124 MNS trate di se4e caciees crevs she oie wcesay creas cheese opemene 125 Redhead, IDYEGyck eal oyeXe bee are tecencee en aE Oo ore eae 112 hITwSt rate Cece, Stecs cc ayie ni! e one vone, aie ateieuee one nee yas eles Sage-hen, DWesenithe dias. 5 eyes. 0 = 3.55 whee eb eneilovepereteyearionens 143 MblaStra ted sae aeaie 2 sexy avercuace es opetetone pepevevers 142 Sanderling, Describe dit eeren sen eee rele hae eee SEE 131 SUGGS stereo lees Seer tne Pratioiee eras a ors Chats 130 Sandpiper, Pectoral, DWesenibed sss astra eas ere mee eee 131 Dhastratedspeta seas fee ee een I30 Spotted, Described: acetates ee eee eee: 131 Mhistra ted eee tear ere te eee ee 130 Scoter, American, Mescribedsey sates on eran oo eer rere eta 146 Milustrateds costes Ger ice casita ere ea eee 117 Surf, Weseribe div 6 = orerctcrer tacit oer ey anor 146 Mlhustrate dine eee reek tu eerie 117 White-winged, IDES Cre CIS es ste tenets cre, nae pe 116 AMIS ERAT smrecaes as es ea Mee eco Ce eg 1 Ey Shoveller, Wesceribedie an star dte soa ree 126 Milistrate dys veces ore Cen ae ep eee III Snipe, Wilson’s, Mescribedt aie Manta ee ee 129 TUStE ate dir ete os oes cya ey pe ee Ae 128 Sora, DeESe ried ass keno tian cewse eter Ra ETE 124 ibastrated: (Sasa. nineteen Rees SEO Stilt, Black-necked, Described sae tie hia se Ree 129 Mas trate dees 5 erases earns eae lene 128 wan, Trumpeter, Weser beady sauce risus erche Alo eer erence 120 mlMuSt rated on cee oiecaeeio cee eee 121 Teal, Blue-winged, Desenihediek cscs ws tyes cooks Oy ae eee IIo HN WStrateGt cae eccs feo oo ae III Cinnamon, DeSenihedinse cis eievecctirs ee ee eee 126 MMS trate GG Sc yeccyeis rare alone tary ee ene ep ec ae III Green-winged, DMeseribed sen ah a eerie oe uae oe eons IIO aS treat Cites ea cenit fey heretic re ee III VIII Page Birds, Game, American, Turkey, Wild, Wesenibedy wares weieere scasievsiais inks cveretetel ove ste eke 145 MM aStr ated sis io octerevecese to Gieteueiece.sssteere:s otaraters 144 Turnstone, lack, ID SSErIDEUE Hektreraievexcin cle wvahe tole orev sicualerecsnaienecets 148 ASTIN aS ete be ey aiecreste te iter ocescer raves av eptoy etSeuel «) Abactens 134 Ruddy, DES Cre Peery cieiee soe con ote eile, (o savres Chetan ts sues sleek 135 MNT US trate dios ckseis cies stcue susbeue lets, cooker ners 134 Widgeon, European, DeESCribe ds aac nates wee shone OMS Sue eke 110 InaStrateds Baar ee en earioeae enna Teer Willet, Mesceribedia suk ee oe Cay Meeks ce ueuat es 133 MlaStrated Mists er eho etre eaten enone 132 Woodcock, Wese rile cle 52s tal woites oie telea stone euebeaaioue crarevebeens 129 Alias trravte Cities te War ee trance eee eet chee eA ae a 128 Yellow-legs, Greater, Desenibed: sacha cere since eee eke 135 BihwStrateds ras cyecre cadets vactsee iri aoercnerenas 134 Lesser, MescribedMscycnschcremcrate nesta race eas 148 MWS ERA tS MS As ance rene ose owinerse Loa rhentlione 134 JET SSaa eel une CERONAMRCKE’A Cee Chron G ee ee Eh oso cc IHE EN aOR Gch AT aS 365 1B USS oy Cee AEN ORC SRE CIN Or cra eee a Acer Ny tt in 343 SSB VAC AMO Wil Tei cenonen areata Sis rceatic roetae cecum oes eee ETN 168 IBIOISHy irae eae tare Ac ete tog ote setae Roe ale doris, Seer emer oe 489 Boscastle, England, MU a See eases foots che stro yc care aucun sensi eHN mite ie 38, 39 Bourcess EMrantce sicstvom nome cece nits Raced eon esuene 467 Barb taniya nic caus eres ieise sls oncamens, Aaa eam Gre teens 395, 407 Brocket deer, DISCO rate et ercr cae eb st geen ce BTCA Re CL Neha tee ear ean 173 ARES CB ener eee Cot Stent et Nest enn: ae se nen Ane soar are Bae oe 171 IB GY; COS. MIANTES Arjen sa eets ai arene: casnenasaconsvane chambres 330, 343 Bucharest, Roumania, Scenes in, ADRS EWA Cheeni sasvcieaey arreine tistical e nee 382, 383, 385, 386 RSS ea aed ear cE RE eRe Age Sa nO er et RTE Ae 387 Bude, Pecue TUNERS Ae RRA one eat ede a eee aS ot Pe an ap 36 Baeeundy slana tebe iter aihy cures a Sosabon aaa Ache tusearste ene 395, 471 ss? Caen apHranic eats done teeters academe Ganlne 398 CALIFORNIA, THE WONDERLAND OF...... 57 California, Big trees of, MN UT Sea togetetoeedene re eeceuees ec Cea 69, 78, 79, 80, 81 DINEKG Ely dep ste vente: silor atscs tueratenn a ets gC Se 67 Bolemianglie sin nc .vacc. cee ee et er ees 85, 86 Cactus chaparraltank -rc-ceve cease eae ee 57 QhriteSe% ofits ok veevaaca en ce seeke choot aE ee ee 86 CORSE Seemes th, WSs oocccsocasodc 88, 91, 92, 97 IDeemiity ok Roe ctecaucs sas Sea Ae a eae 3 IDEGbiniy Otese Moe ie Bea ene 99 Ide, Weve Olisoccaccccs Saat iapaita, see tee A segane Meta 57 RGIS [Gti cA 10a, Seataye arses’ sees ausdees omic anette 63, 73 Cea canon tae aire ten pene NPDES URE Mart teh Bbc aaT 7B Garden; eAM typical osseilliuseee camer ae 77 Kaweah Canyon, TTS a une iguneta illus Matt Oe 72 Wigeroms, Spero, ORoococscaucaadoocunaceuc 59 Philosophy wiotyeverearsustise cu tses coos see ee ease ae 85 Rainlessuirepions Ofep arene an eceLeLnie 57 Street Mike sina. cc toes ea Pee ee 59 hes OldesSpanish el natle saan 59, 63 Witter Oa sty c.c cystoneterer astern euros aera ee oI 8 Yucea in, TS sea for stekon sty clewctey siete gersesral cies MON pater nee hy ae 65 Bog Pee ey ier aie iene et EOS g Peer han Wey eae 57 Cancole oyster beds pills. a. S72 veaere inane bos cies 412 Carcassone, France, illus...... 458, 459, 460, 461, nee Carol, Prince, Ofer RGuimaniaacr eerie ache Goce ke Badoene Moepaees See 365 Castlezot Angersmllludsaseenene ace e eee 436 Catalinawiclandhenllaseeemeei ee cen een eee 98 Cathedrals: England: Ely Cathedzal, spotsionenclishetekecrarsiien eae tele teers are aetuet ee 562 Tilu Lichfield. Cathedral, La Eis tretevenete Mars) clare re icicue tee PAO er Tae 566 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Cathedrals: England: Salisbury Cathedral, TUS) sesso ewes ose eee 563 Waneuesiey Cathedral, interior, TMWUSS 36.66 esrasie vd sine leeieiee Moe 565 France: Amiens Cathedral, WSs sees cuncteciee setae ere 486, 488 Marseille Cathedral, 1 UU eer nS c o.obG dobdo0' 477 Paris, Notre Dame, PASS ord a issereuslls. os ceteaee remem 496, 498, 499 Beige St. Front Cathedral, susdoaléye (ec afiends'e's 260s Coa ee ee 437 Rouen Cxicahe 1 HU ORES 50 6 ooo 06c 399 Italy: Rome, St. Peter’s, OUD enn MN Balt bso Sab clog oo 06 447 COYWCO. bie jieie aces a. cce'e cele ola e ie ae ne eee 162 Chalgara, .Anmenias si. 20. 4uo6en ee 343 Chambery, Francés. 62204 si asce hea eee 462 Champagne “i. b0 Oss dain ane die ee ee ee 395 CHANNEL PORTS—AND SOME OTHERS.... I Chartreuse, The Grande... ). 5.4. ene eoee 462 Chateaux, French, 0D Rei o Ree Ieee srectcio dinis ceomiaiG onus d\o10-0 492, 494, i TEXt ei aeie Halk wie edie oe ai one eee Chios: Harthquakes. “at...ie csc nis, olerh shud cere one 237 Highway ion, illus. 3:5 ace ee 236 PUistory) Ofsiaies oS. saree ee soe eee 236 Wandscapess inks alllSeee eae ieee eee 234, 235 Skeleton chamber of monastery at, illus..... BRS! Struggles Of sc s 60.4 600 «5 sree eee eee 238 Windmills: Of. cna iccisic ease eee aoe 238 CITIZEN ARMY OF SWITZERLAND, THE.. 503 Clazomenz Clovelly, England, TS oe is se Beadle we ie dro ae See ee 28, 29 Coastal changes: Warfare between land and sea, ANGhyeINerias? two) Ehoumevels, WINUSs soscanocaoccc 223 Battlesiocnds wihiies salicaria 225 Cape Henry around, WMS. ss al cece hate eee 196, 197 "POXE Uo as sciehel auaiela tee ee 195 Disputed nenchypeAw alllitis pene eres 226 Dune: fOr CS wie a ao eeu Oe 209 ldaSomy Ete WwOrls, Wiles occcccoccccccndcce 221 Forest. outposts» alluses ne eee 216 Islands of Chesapeake, Abia a croton eee 200 Light cavalry of the ocean, illus......... 222 Man's: (part: ings. 25 oe AO Ziti INews Wiersey, lines Onttheran eee eee 207 Rear-auarnds.e hess tise eee 207, Recorduin the sandsiote eee 201 Runininies swate ra OwerOteseei ae een 211 Sand! jainmiye invadinionealllitisme sienna 212 Sea-strengeth \ssals adie dinar Scere ae eee 209 Sentinelsvor they post, illtisme eerie 220 Sheltered from sand! foe; ilussense eee Aw Siege guns of the sea, The, illus........ 219 Standines sentinel sy illitiseie ere eaten 199 Strategy oO. d Se aisuias Slike beeen meee 195 Stronghold of land forces, illus......... 203 Truces. Phe} alluses 2 citi 0s eee eee 218 Wares Ibtednoorboes, MUS) Go 6b ocbococoboooe 229 Wand attacks) alllltisi 4 crsniee ieee ane 228 Code: Napoleons. oi 05 oe ae ee eee 496 (Corie, leleyovore oni, Who oonngoacanbonboccccccobe 315 Cornwall, Ports of, NUKE ae ne Go ee OricecorriG G (HUG, U7, Din 20, 27 of Neb UN he co mer ES BA Gh Uap ish AR, Si, 27 Village scenes in, GUN Coste eme ey ateNdsrs re mune rniep et . Aly Oy 1) Ae, AO) Costa (Rican. se ceri edoaw od) a a ue ee ee 192 2? Dauphine\.c:o.8 cise ae hae ee ee oe 395, 460, 461 Delphi, Panoramic views Of. /..)-rrsp-tetietriroe ieee 325 Devil and Cornish (He, Wis a5060 06 oA dues cuctareneeere 8,15 “Devil’s Teapot,” TMS) = kek eee actus citi onernctewe Si Ryeeaeie kero ee eee IOI Devonport. eneland saan eee ee eee 37 Diarbelkin shies is Wise Seis oe Sea ee 343 Dijon! Brancerseeg le cecasinn eee eee ee 473 INDEX FOR VOLUME XXVIII, 1915 1X Page Dackyandsmoblmrortsmoutht.... .ca6 oes sec + 55 Dolmen, MUGS eteurcmsiecstie''e: ita ote eishahci or a.5. wielei ee veck dinars 414, 415 TPeSszE 56 6.6 0 6 6cetO. AITO Cn ee 418, 419 Dunes, The, A traveling dune, ata Stave cues S kisia) esis 5 seis chess 204 Aueriodemvictonya to, WluS. <0. .s00css+s ese 210 AXSROM Ol. 6'00.6 6 CO OOD OC OID R EC oS ae ee one 209 COTA Bi aeeHSpenCSPIGATOMe 6+ 3s eee eet eee 211 Eastern coast, United States: iBeachinsceness WMS: 0562s ee ecc ees 199, 200, 202, 2OBq LUD, Dis, DUG Busy 2225 2235 2255) 220 Same Cot scons doce sd oe eee ee eee 201 Cape Henry, Virginia, SE codcacco @o0bop OUD HOI Oo Did coda a 195, 197 TUS. 6 a5 OGIO a ROO Re men ee eee 196, 197 Ciesainedlie Bsc Soe CnC en nC naam 200 islerom INGE, Wihnse; TWlhtCeemo sami eoeoeedr 213 Weng JGESeiic ode o Bee eee eee arr 207 IR@GIRATIENT. _IBCEICING ole 6 Oo Hero CIO IG ree aIE ore 201 Shaekeltonduibanls, lus. «....662 505222220 eee 198 Tillalaneravs Iisi eine eee eee erie 201 Sas. VW iiltercn (Coa 8 & Skene Cre eee enero ae 568 level “owner, IBEVeIGs 6 ae coioC ae nee een eis 405 TE) Capnieya? HGS ae se ee ene nee ee 93 England, Country ite iim, dlleS55 SHO, Fey Sey SSOp HOO, HO Cornwall coast of, Hee 50.610 Gi Oe Oe eee BB. O5 Op Wai a Ely areca Tm, WUNRSS.6.c ca ae CR eoIcR eee nenCe eee Folk-types of, ive eee iis 13, UWA UO> SOs BSZl Harbors of, ‘lie... er Ay Oy 305 195 LO, Hite 2A, 20, 27, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 46 icuneldmC@athedral. allws.......--22s05.+.5- 566 Saiichimny athedral, illus... -...scce psec ces 563 Winchester Cathedral, interior, illus......... 565 VWivornem it, alltiGagers aide cei ncreereeras Tit, UA, Zl Ewe wens, [EeiiC6o eo een ee cee ian 457 ISG coco ceo ebb OU BU CRITIC ne ten Rae ier arate 343 IRSZEFOUR oo c\65 600 00 SOUS OO nO Ren eae cn 343 IESECIRE coe co6c 56 6 OO Cin BOO It eee nee 166 Etchmiadzin, AMrimentane Watican.. Dbhe.......-..-..- 330, 334 acai, TP eeiiegs HGS Sg ea GIce eee 396 ecminapeomine at MISNt. 0. kee ee ee 176 COTY? Festivals, Folk: Wamennvanacdeance Aas dlls... .-5..0...5-556% 333 @ircumecision procession, illus................ 549 Wivedloling:, TllktiGic-c/d Gl orcleretore On seneaeee none nornoneececnee 367 Fleet street, London, MES, ood a6 5.0 00 5.6.0 OLE CIEL HENCE ene ete nen eet mega 2S Folk-types, memianemaitiSz ssa 64262200 t ess BAD. BBG. Va. 339) 342) 652) 3535 355 SQieniceyn, ul cols oleae ena renee rere aeae 390 melish. ills... 2... se Hilt 13}, 17 UO BO, HE (reel, TUS. 4c e.cs et nee eee cen 207, 300, 314 lealiams illigs.c vo baa 5 OO DIC Omron 448, 449 Peal, sGS 23 os close ele eee 392, 402, 403, 406, 413, 416, 417, 418, 419, 444, 446, 454 TRiese@higin, iUGiGs 4.5 clo clcucncIo Io ene nee nene nae 347, 34 iRetimerarain, TIS oo oo maD ono ceo oon Le 363, 364, 368, 371, 374, 375, 377) 379» 386, 388 Swiss, ilitGso0. chew Glaie cere neeeCIoION 440, 441, 450 MtangktoierNISS. . 6 cc e ee 346, 349, 357, 359 France, Pulonembire coasts of, wWlus...........5:-- 424, 425 Anmenonmous hot-house........---.5.-2s008- 305 AGemitectune, Regional, in........--:--.-..-- 303 Children of, ING s, — 3.66 tae ene oreo 393, 411, 418, 420, 432 Gites on ills... 3. 52..... 397, 400, 405, 408, 409, 421, 422, 425, 430, 431, 436, 437, 485 Holketypesmot illus.....-..:.:- 3902, 402, 403, 406, 413, 416, 417, 418, 419, 444, 446, 454 Geographical strength of..................-. 391 EIMCH ivan oO tamelltSe i seals cree cieie cscs wes eee 470 Literature FE IS ape his CM 407 TLED Clo oc cols et RON nen Ne renee armen 471 Napoleon’ Spleadershipaotass coc 5 crrierin cine 496 enim enn WUaStny (Olam. sccscice el eer 2 ecuee 455 IE POWIMOGSS:- Chistes pa SO DDE ROD OraicaciontS Siorcreee re sicas 305 Page France, IRGiein OI TSOP Mil; oooceosopedonedeounaceont 495 RS Violimitro merit! mn. (e: akavayeveiereuevsusiece 19 osfoils cits wusnerohsvarets 493 RUIVETESVISLEI Oleic cases chia a loteiewaiee. 6 els Mims bs oe 391 RowenuCathednralsellussec cece saa cte cere 399 IR GtieAI eal ehavall sh oly @ createed ced eke Gea Oro car ceenD enone 3905 Seanes ia moral, ss oosaccuoc 402, 404, 410, 429 SCIlSTI COMMA Miayaye totece ache niaticlcaisicle sa eieilieka, swela ae 501 SealmombsmOleategescccucleneeehsee see. e © cru sieietavians “a(S eileise ovate 392 Soldiers Oh, salts )a.n) veneers ve yodie. ease a de velista s eiceiales 406 Strongholds, Ancient, in, illus......:... 456, 457 Women of, ATID MUSER esas cucissire.cvatyeasusiterts conte 3902, 403, 411, 417, 419, 421, 426, 428, 435, 444, 451, 468, 473 (Gad Game birds, American, PN oh aVS UNS (OhigasS nae old oro oe SOO ree ce 105, 106 Ache breeding enotnmdS tora seer ocr eee 106 A\MoIMErEY! jEOMERERMOIN Oitsg5o6400cesG00000000c 157 DeCReasewote ceric uct ee nie aes r ete ees oie 106, 107 HederaleMicratonyar bin dele awe toler neers 153 lira bine Bek trier case Meme eesuena. tenes si Seen eacseeerers 107, 150 Ten le xHnO tersc iG py ticsyeticns cctarensiae aie c.ctenech aera av one 158 IMIGIMNES? APAINEKS Oil, Sola Su acacocapoce dadcecoos do 150 Organizations for conservation of............ 157 Over bindipreservess allusmea- ces seeeeo ses 152, 154 Protection, Further, needed................. 155 Sal vo Berane weer uae tere od Wee ae doi iatare ee eg are 150 SUAS DIOLECHNS IAMS TOPs .cocccochacosoncse 151 IN Mare Lyd. a Ol Mate taatea sme cncuer sameeren tare a chene arene) ene 105 Gatun Lake, PANG YEH aN RaVeXeIO Olt crdto DOIG EOD Oe HOIG e Chae Ginl Oi 159 Banks, Along the, of, illus..... WO75 UO, U7/il, WOVE: inipontan Cewohere cyelccicives se heeiane aco ro 159 SMigiwes, Winewnaveyeacl, Olgaacoocdcoodenoucosoec 161 SESE CEO ae ogee PSOE iE (cP 161 Winitede states ownershipnot- 4-12 se ote 182 WhergS tino, Mlle oéececcccucseccc 162, 163, 194 Geyser, Giant, Yellowstone National Park, ITA hes et crane carne cece icatire tte Ric a eee 99 Glacier National Park, HAIN Ta Sees reese es cre etc eee iah eI EON Sie We eee 100 nS en tSiaieuere yacaaterieinoten mere ae 104b, 104¢ Gocthalse Colonel. he ee ee eee 167, 569 GoldeniGatewoan ranciscon allinsese eee eee eee 56 Gore, James Howard, Romnmaniay eb Wem ivOralimotatess eae eee anes 360 Grasse, France, MUL Geta ces trrees rar sicid hence kee tame ean ee RO emt 472 ARES ed ek Shoe eaamer oN epea ee scy hshc a ope IN Ree mB eR Ga a 455 Greece, s-NCA eo OU ab nga NUNteec.G Geaiackoroue Ga Oe tee BOIS ee IG THOT 307 CapitaleNe wero amps one pao Reon ere mics 299 HCAS ta Cay. Ginny cet cceny sue el aeei ee ne moran ee 326 WOSNADES Cit, WihiSoooccscocoscccose 297, 300, 314 Greats deaay tO lito touiiys ice Cette oes Meee ae 299 NOS pital tay apen time ssps oer woe ante cope, See meats ee nace 318 WaboreOrgsamzatlionnorminene nee ee oes ene 320 Pane Wag EMO leita teca vers oo cicel nbruehecorieen ko 205 Racial traditionsin™ nacwsncte scence acannon 295 Royalrarnilys obtemy= ms acsa ese uae ele cere 315 Soldieny okie nepal oa eta che olan eae eaten 323 ‘heoloswalNeslectiots inne an eee 323 Viewssing alldsecae.o - BiG), B22; $24, G25, G26, 327 Women of, ies RGR OS TENS CHENG Cane Rie eS Oe 312, 314 SE CADET ORM CC ere fierce a nec oem ica oe ree ane 320 GREECE OF ION DENI Ges Bins esi eat nears ity ae eon 205 Greekircumlosityeccies chee ee eee eo ee 318 MGregonarigas @hianehy accisch acces ee eae pe re 334 Grenoble, France, UDI DISEs S eco cree ee cuce cicero Mra ica neeneare Scene 478, 479, 482 ALG Kctiprateraite eters o atisce econo ene eden atc naaie eo Seine 461 SET ?? Harris, Ernest Lloyd, Historic islands and shores of the /Egean. 231 Harte: Bnetireeesc classes teeden me als oelen nen ome Gy 86 Henshaw, Henry W., Chief of the U. S. Biological Survey, imenicane Gamer indents erate 105 Eetch=Eetchyie Wallley.cieccc-an eee encanta ee. 67 Hidden Bae poutan: JED Sse STONY Sh nl ore oi oye Wicretce tee cpohts coer iaaieres Bctais 1046 HISTORIC "TSLANDS AND SHORES OF T ES (GEV AGN Mies Srnereisie ciniee noon eee Oe? ne ene 231 Elouse-boabeexplorationee. eee eee ene 165 x THE NATIONAL Z| fked Page Iguana, The giant lizard prized in South as food, Wise aces sererehckcaveteteNclsinlene vere eccvelel aie eemeteteie: Svoneee 191 Weide iCitewerrancer i eelereicer teins etieira a aerate 487 In the land of the Mamelukes, illus.............. 442 Inventions, American and foreign compared............. 593 Ireland, “Darby and Joan of Galway,” illus.......... 551 Galway, A country road in, illus............ 552 RUTAaleSCetlenttl, al liGitecusksle cieieteie nel teuels meth enete 555 Strand life in, AVIS 2, Sree ca hel ove nvaccia onto ereece ese 553 Nsere River, ilasercriictere cus cussielicterstketeeietet ake 479, 480 ee Ke Jenkins, Hester Donaldson, Acmetita and «the VATIMenianei risieelets ile cele: 329 Jerusalem, I OCTISTS Utlacielevane Mel vieieds cielaueleaeteteleeciet Iet ren OteT AC 513 Street Scene, LViDICAl tatters teri testes sieieielelere ls 546 “Tower of David” Hee DS eas eiatereetaterteroseroualtetereie tes sar) citran ays tetenen poy AS ea sects mies 55" vols tay otavon ei oheyiai er oeconeh nee or cute men oeena ene 525 Walls) to tinct cwesteve sess votonelevelons obater phere aicuepetace ne 515 JERUSAL PWS POCISD PACU acorn 511 Joan I, Prince Alexandcus scene a. kare eon 362 foaquin Wa lleva trusts tctucastecc aie cous tone ‘toda sinter stat Monat oe ike 63 Jordan River, Scene, ‘or dallisiys.’a acres a shots Cleteipeere serene tamee 545 Ya ees IV (NIE Ie] OG Me Dire Pera ara Perk te) A MBCA ED PRC Coan PCL curiitary abt Gene. reF 343 Knik Arm, Alaska, View over, WU Sipttee etecickelot le debai a akett et noolietel ne cartes 570 ce > La Gorce, John Oliver, Associate Iditor, The NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, The Warfare on Our Eastern Coast..... 195 Lands Hee b balan elie btctbaliah ore acenesa) bya uakt a; eb Mone Perec ee NO et? I MUN TS ots catteura tasers, beet nvee tevovarsveiieds sus eublsustmasneeaalemen ote 2, 49 Lane, Pragklin Leah eashatiet en ireveayonecccote g ka ghistnreNels laure oe 73 Secretary of the Interior, AWS EH Glahnider laa KOl oy al eiricie melcin ean bn 8 pt occ 589 TV ATICILEGOC flitciriao a eeatecvletetonmuarete: ¢ eben Ney itel oe uae 433 Laon, France, UT a eat oo oP vrawetieten oveturorcaibe re veulercel ctocaaNotenemeualt ew Noe eR Ie 485 TOKE, cic iesetele siersyoie cece (olf sheleiele ee) ateinls eleregleyy winicaane 487 ILA IAG (Copan, an0n0noeenAnodono nba 59 Teen blavire Pirance s|aictn aece cia ee seth enoiles oye uceeiteus intiovevedet 398 IL rovcleys, roles, Witansaahandondaananadnnnc 250, 251 I fostehalype Oley eal ain iBone rertotn Oi ih Sires welt: Otuhaekh 4 159 Loches, France, MNS? Pash ot Cans ot cle iete biteuehr ie ene tan a EA IA Ce 484 Next: cites sg is bush esa iatere teveUsRoan ora ereuaeevedeaeberesoootens 489 Locust plague (see “‘Jerusalem’s Locust Plague’’) itects Of iliisi svemlereltetucte GAO, GAG, BAe, Aer, Gey Fighting [PRUE EY) AeA MARS EN IN 535, 530 HAV OCMCATISC CD NictencteleleheberatevonsisN cists collier eictrie iat 541 Markets emptied by....---2ssccccerserenece 529 Occurrences, am Ralestiney Ol err ileletel elelensmerete 511 WEE) Sion WhitontadoppoodoonolAT 527, 528, 531 Vines and trees sitter from, oles vies elles lec ole 529 Locusts (sce “Jerusalem’s Locust Plague’’) COMMS KATIMTOS it ehanete score ene cwenee es eericcatpuelac ol eweyte 535 AS fall-otows -IdLvAdtial ALS ste ce vole el vieiele els 538 Cannibalism sobin chee cic terrie( showlevenusccresnte rie - 544 Charms against Sur o\'e shigielavele yale leionsheveusce ews) Fusungelerte 548 Creeping? vin uitteveislstelessuetatolene siete winteenie eine 522 Collecting egesiotecce were nee sts etaretaeteatone 521 Enemies of, Wats 3) Gave -ceettenarchvateugteare a coisketett rede cheno Perce 514 MOK Xe sakotaleline eo siehoueCreneynnet oie wishetle en 521 Moll-lorevand: the pian coves cure tee rlsecmeneiegs trian oaonene 547 Wood Walwe: Oke sate nicGale cieise oe main eae 547 LONER, INVaGed sDvscueiy celcienenue tein i eek ante 533 ILEbAGE, foi Goareysobyneah) MS che aondosdansonen 518 Migration of, WAS): Speaistouershedertece satan ove heveteetois toni Mattes 512 OSES wate Aieitorieslotie inceke vay auebe Cue Guan One doanl alate Rua (S50) Mil onaltimies: Oa oie vio.in.ececcones scrvomale invto'e oar puree eR aN eeee 543 Propagation Obici pce: ce viesenticile malo atone orate 516 Proverbs. “abOUth. setciniiel guvetes theme On nninrTe 548 Puna state, OL milliciieeiesistts ‘ ROO TODO Oe. eke, Swarms of, illus..... 527, 528, 5315 532, 539, 540 GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page locusts, Trapping the, WS i. ie givens acaind inv Soles oo Ae 530, 540 TOKE: <6 cies oy e'e 6.0.0 vib rsie cleo A ee 535 Locusts’ eggs. as £000... .2000 0s ba 513 LONDON fis bok o bce cee ls oo hale ee 263 | oh otc koh PR rm 7203 Bank of Pueland at; dls. se ce nee ante 20m Complex Of J 0. -« s+ «02 si 19 see oes 208 Fire: monument at, ius. 7 -\-us0s 7a ase 204 Tlouse of Words) 113 Wiis a eeneeeneienene ane 20% Hyde -Park: tts o5 doe. 03 bees Done 7 289 Inns of court At... 12+ +0209 6 eee 279 Parliament building in, illus........ 292, 293, 294 Romance “Of + os 3.05 0:09 + «101s 5 7 TORI 265 St. Paul's: at;, lus:;...,2¢0o eee see ZO, SZC), Ofvs ec acre dieielerbie “s.« boo 6s Re , 263 Street. Scenes in, alus,. +e 270, 271, 272, ris 273, 275; 279; 284 Tower of, TAS: sieve ben ele arojevel ate Cee Zipais pete Oe TeX (6 oh eciidoan 1 ee 269, 271 Westminster group at, .-s/77eeenee Bn ede Whitehall in, illus... cos eae en een 284 Wolsey’s home. in. ...:.350). 2 285 ZOO at, WSs oo cies 3065s 282, 283 London, Jack OO ein i on non diane 86 Looe, Ingland, I lus PPM ERI OTA cb init inn acon 50 MORE. eli seeheGnee ghee ee OR Es crc: 21 Lorna Doone,” Dhe land ot... jae eee 18 Los Angeless o.i.eis sles ocd oe sb ee 59 CON [cz Maps showing, Aigean Sea, Islands and shores of.......... 232 Armenia, Ancie DIVE ie v0ss.'e douel a) supra Aloette oleate eee eememe HWurope and surrounding areas affected by the WAT aieid le iegrerereievere site he Ee Insert, July, 1915 Irance, Provinces: of;... cee eee 471 Locust. plague area of 1914, Palestine........ 542 Panama before establishment of Canal cassie 180 Panama after establishment of Canal Zone.. 181 Rockaway Beach, Movement of............. 206 Marash, TUS, sc snd «vs o> ete oc te 356 TEX. viele cele ave steva loreal gee a eee 343 Marazion snc laridir-ier einen ENR: Gr rr 5 Mariposa Grove, UUS)..2 5 eels cists pievevenc tren ena 80 Market of Amiens, UUS:..0-. 20 as cae eee 490 Marriage mart, A‘... + .-. 2 +>. 06-5 )epi ee eee 413 Matanuska coal fields.......0..-.2,n05enseee 567, 589 Matanuska River, View over, illus. ilosenee oi'erGie cess Geka ee ene -- 569 Mayflower memories:z..\ «10 apse an eee 37 Mears, Frederick, Iieut., U. S. ‘Army. ean 569 Meije, The, UNS voices: 10.5 0/0 2s 29 die sy ee eae 481 Merced, The, “River of BOK obi dle. e1e)s,0 0 2) een ep ane 67 Miller, Joaquin.. siete a etstetetene vs elise e OOO ROO Moldavia vs -<0sessse dees lactone 362 Monkey, “‘Owl,’’ DUIS: oeseie Giieiashabere ielolieve.cicutevelccneee ape ae 175 MORE Cass, diaeutente ne eee che! pibldteh sae eeeeee [7 Monterey, coast, California, alltis7 eee 71 Montpellier-le-Vieux, France... . 1s ei seein 434 Mt. Rainier National Park, Washington, TUNIS: ais so: ais tele s tolrevinxie) oc te hotculdire a) aten ci a ane mat 104, 104a Met,. Shasta; W]tsi..3:5/¢) wea c siete dl creek tee ee 75,95 Moses, George Higgins, formerly United States Minister to Greece, Greece of Today. le cd Aanicctctete SP a estins, Oke Mitts, Jolnan ss 6 éicscc det evece ovens vce, o7d love ele ene ato | ly CONT 72 NATION’S PRIDE, WEE. «.:-snic piers picket tee re 589 NATURE’S T RANSFORMATION AT PANAMA 159 Nepal) The At ‘Southampton, DAG vo tie va foie eire se lnsielleivevenel ove tails Vein nace eae mean ena 55 HOKE 5 Sages ee eve eke piayeracdt helene ein ee eee 41 Wenana Canyon, illus... 2c aves sa eip siete eae 579 Nelson Monument, ; emellepye Soibebt, Who an aoonsaoo. Nevers, Erance cc's: siniicve pseu se wiobeyel ones, ¢ ou Se ee 466 Newlyn, England, TUUATS sea: srdive: jonas o to’siorveueve tise to aio gel evel ones teen ean 16 Ther ose ee terare ava uae losailerce, Sie plana tne ee oe eee 5 INDEX FOR VOLUME XXVIIT) 1915 SE Page Nice, France, THUGS. 3.0 6:6 5 bro ote SERRE RCC een eee 476 TNS Sicithe Bcc eRe ene OR CIniG rn GIG tic 455 Nimes, France, TINK oe.w'éo G6 OS OHIO ORO OI CRCR OIG CHIE Ca ene eae 464 TMESRE solos Jen OO OS Oe ao err orn a eee te 433 IN@IREDBINGH? “Soo 4.5.6 0 COTO RIE CRE Ena IERS een er 395 INOrgi Sem Lota keaperey tach re ccic eis sie sie ee sisi ee cleus eae 63, 86 @?’ OileneldeeAimentcan Wills. o.).600 6). See ciee o esd eles 62 Olde Cumosity Onhop, Wiss. 2... ee ce eee 281 “Od! IDie, Sytner 49 BOpenivemarsusherm: lS... 2.2... ss.ee sce ee es 600 Orange, France, Me AS ease esate oS ckce-aice REP ei ec erasers sualgtees 466, 467 Qinme IRs 6 60's b o'Gibi0S DIS Cia CRI nCnEe eee acer 308 Sop? Paca eaeoun paca virgata), IWS, ooo Sob oo Gad CELDT ea nee sr nee 169 at ee 25 8 910%. 0!9 00 OE REI eee eee ae 179 Panama Canal Zone, ANGTTMAUIS, Cie, THEI Sao Cee ERCRO OER WOO), 172, 09/3. 175, 178, 187, 189, 191 Bat caves on, TIlPise: oo!e.dic Go tO a OLOn Ne eee aeae 184, 185, 186 INGER 5-65 6 D6 SO ARO CORO NR ee 1756 170 IBirels, Gane, (Oiticous oaod cee os Oeics 169 CGhangess Great. UPON. o.....5s 000. T5OQ; Lol, LO2 Chinese captain of industry on the........... 166 Enlargements, Necessity form of............ IQI NIB. Olloo 66-0 0 0510 66 OL ORCC eICN RI LR eee neo 181 DinilitalravmSEneTUObMAN OL cel s Que sic e ee ses ele esse 183 Newly flooded forest in, illus............... 160 Rodents of, ESE. 56. 5 6 610.0 CIC SEEICEEO DEOL enn Re earns 168 IMGS, 566.0 SoS COO CO DIC een CTE earn ne 172 SoM AS PEELS OL. c oc Se ova ses abe ees 186, 187 Settlennemt iil sa's bb coon BO cee Cece 182 Smomersede jungles... . 00.25 cece wees 162, 163 Tees OH, Aili. os ole Bide Oto Ree a nce ee nee ore 164 WAG SUIDDIKZ ORS Como cc cna earners 159 Panama-Pacific Exposition, WS, coco. 6.0:0 5.6 A Oe Oe Ge eee 60, 61 TTESRE o'0 6 6.05 6 0.6 COLO OEROIE CEE Ieee ea ener 76, 86 Paris, Church of the Madeleine at, illus........... 304 eel MNO Wetec! 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TOS Sees's Ge sig Sais cae een eee mene TO4C Puget Sound, NG arm etm ome ps. ec co aece ce see wales Wel ee ee 102 SOR? pe Fane e e apmpacine (Citiivs oecacadecnuooudducdudG 475 Rhodes, IDI Olle.c ad¢ ope O GS ee ee eee 257 (COlOSSES. ORS ahd Sb nts ae Ee Brees ea eee 256 IPORERESS: BES TIGA Ste ee Graio pence ene ene eee 243 RSTO Tay aan Oa peter ctahercire: cedars eoreleaa-sce Soshais« 255, 256 GTI CINES MO Pepe iat severe, ais learceny eee sid vse A alaieas 256 HOM ULL OMM OL a aise) Acs o1e eos myavel spars. saw is sows s ap aaeels 256 Rockaway Beach, Charts showing movement of 206 Scenes in, illus...... Wile, ANSTO), Dia, Aa, Oyy.l SteNicholasshower at, illus... ..s.s0secees aes 242 Sieetoretie Knights im illuse...... 4096-4 - 246 \Wallls Ot, TING caer Ocenia Ieee 244, 245 Page aire, J[ttacy tbl eKanogt: \Shorecao hero clos omen CRTon CancaiaicRonon ISTIC 569 Riggs, Arthur Stanley, hes beanities! Or Mrances ace cedar eelelrclcic 391 Riviera, Royat, France, A highland spa, MIR ata oe eras coiee eee oretie ate ease aes el hte th euleles 465 IDALIF USB renee se rar atchee etcieek sings eataers sl sails 483 Roosevelt Wheod ones... sc oc roreiel ens = ease teh ave meee 192, 193 Rouen, France, MELTS epee eee ee eee ege oa ete seome ceteie eiaans 399, 400 HINES boas neo Uae ee Pere ce weir lel Siete Bor aialSlinee aia are e 398, 401 Roumania, IN Git CUES mi Obes sasiaye ote: sire One tenslehev ava eneue@ areveetshelie 369 ANimenicanmCconhetnerrer yi erciciel eter recie ee orercrers 370 ANMNGWRIMAIG MMSE Wolg oscacccasacadouuuooc 360 Glin Gireria ote aeietercrs o oratcare accel ols is'tocchene wens BOR Bis Ghirmaateleo Bee ee cose eA eee ee ee CO Os cession 373 (Comsinnnlenlom Of. cccbccgscauecobesoccbusoUGS 362 COStUMEeSe ity riae nena reeee iene een eke cours 369 (QYOREIEG) (Chiesa 5 wou dic iase Oran arn Te tec noe er OO eee 381 GasStomsi ities eeas crcl eackcrn eo ulieeione Gu senna 375 ES Conomichconditionmoree nace eee eo eel: 376 Holketypespanepalllseractericerere lore 362, 363, ee 368, 371, 374, 375, 377, 379, 386, oe TRO OE NOs gucroe orenebste ete iers icione aleve fey us lnilais gers tels erates GothsrandpEianspinvadeseenenaeeee cies ne ME WSHO Te crerseoree Merete enor cede aie Salon hoa nerelaa ots 384 Wandmownensiipe inerrant 366 Jaa Os ERIS sa een n cio cio OOO Re ara oO eee 376 We orslatonseskO ts ers hose ccna mois ici eons lone 379 INDIRA BABI Thine odohonnoooascu caged poe 378 IBLE TSE NaH ESM ONES GEO ROLG ERS CSPI NEN Ges CECE CIE ORE Ges 384 Rati wraiyiSin@ teste jays ous src telieorsc esa evarohsneuenOicis eters ates 383 IRElveromsSplite Obs accuses aie see aiene es eneesio wise 384 Romesmconnectiony wither =o eee cece 360, 361 SaleirGe posits: Ober ietieeevera cys soieie seers tases manelens 382 SCemes Fin, Wis ssccosodcs AG, AV, HOO, Bit, BZ SI ZEm Obese ecetan cuss cle e atorecoeavensiisiaie-choe conor suave revemere 365 Salah. Gi; sil tisies sone o oenoonocomoddcc 381, 386 Superstitions? imlera sda wclseiec cess erals Saree 373, 375 ASAD SEE OUMLCSIAOMy yele cienewe ate careers susve sieeateuereneene 382 Women of, ae SSR SIs coors 362, 368, 370, 374, 378 OR ROR TOE ODEN EIO eee eae oie 360 ROUMANTA, IMEUS, IEUWOIWAIL, SITAMM Bo 6 ooeb0ce 360 G72 Gelli teen sorte et ees toes es eae lee wt eh 73 Samos, i GIETESHEO BN yarn esas Bae MS ee ere en erste 245 AAS HO Taye (Oba ous eis seve eS eeia er eens sca sidy sibs suction rameneranerene 243 MM GUIStrIieSsOfs ck. scp arecceeriesniciene RICO Listener) Sas 255 Sireck Gesm© tin, WkiSocogeacccoogdeccnco00UD 237 Temple of Hera, Ruins of, at, ITA nS Oh PS Rages IS FMR calle erraia a A cnc CRIae ay cv cqieteayre 239 MINES EY euoiiaaretecne Rec che atone cll newer dea sa eet ceee eer 245 Wweoncloaillliss Or, ads sccoooceou0casucnoboc 240, 241 San Fernando Mission, JOR Se ae esd) arses tg eprint re ke A 90 San Francisco, ReKnoraiane) City NIG cooonebucosnedcodeuuoooS 58 MeKE er ciess Chats a er) a ee aterens eae ees 76, 80, 81, 85, Bo Sarleehinancis cosmthad Gameeeeae ee eieie eee eles Sane GabiielmiVilissioneers seem cyte eeceeaiete rer cicls es San Jose, California, PalmdalemMussion-) luster cece meee aoe 70 Savona Sore Wine teeta tee tes sores o cceueienes Slate ieuensiors 463 S cillilispebie Sena tone ar tees er tsaes erie eee alae I Scillivemiclamdst em eerie en merare tere Siete ie tats Wig I Sequoia gigantea, Tllus. NP ree ee wae yeep a en pee hes a chaluen eines Saar gk a 79 ED ets Sis itcce Grete ois; seat a ralicra aus ss ielioausre ate gure else 67,73 Seward, Alaska. Terminal of U. S. government railway, illus.. 568 Shiras, 3rd, George, Nature’s Transformation at Panama......... 159 Sierras, WANT teas ee ater era ews ameraciasrcy sgh avis Socal ane snare cus Seoensilass 66, 94 ALS axe te ate Neck NEE Nee cre eee ee TE, erebtus, Sait Ye 63 SHSUSic Ohi, olieshalclas Mote eistue ol cia orove:dasulu Dlola ci teaiotend enor 457 Soories, Irigom Oy nisi. oocouceoceuuodunnacues S078 Southampton, England, TONGS Sictova ict Aa oer caro cal Dick tcl st ONGEA akc eRe omne Ire oie 55 SR ERE RR ogo ate CBRN See ie is fe opie wn ee henteeiel Ws 41 Spokane River, Washington, JNK RE a oe iste cael Soe CNG lp: choke ROIS IOI, 103 St. Honorat. France, NTT USHER Seer rnuencusesbe cderots oie aie siete crereumevecisin aie: os 453 XII Page Ste Wow ekiramices alll W'ses ct serene ieeersee cae orn 397 Stlves) Bnelandis nce tan os eee ee eee 31 Sti Maloy (Brance: noes sc ei ats seenatere st neem ioiclen sie 407 St. Michel, Fortress-abbey of, MNS.) kya Meoratoncn cies ei epaonier os ceereneeenewene 430, 431, 452 ACRE ey ee ae ee ere eer aa es 407 Simoalclencl, Carles \WairitGilococacccuvcacoovsucuoos 86 Susitiiay routes: sanermis caren cues ey eerie aerate 573 Swiss army, Democracy. Ofss s.cc2 tiers 8 net eee een rene 505 1B eat aan oy Be eee eye cee Neen ote ren kere eitereeois ot cts 506 MnilistmenteteniSminsrin aa eee enn 504 IMO DUT ZAt OMe Oficina eee 503 Organization) Ob coe: as ah tiae sot eee ieee 503 SiZSs OP seein aed ace Coie coerce Abe uci uounes ae 503 Target: practice), Obs sat ack-aces sine neces 507 Switzerland, Ruralescentesmins tl lass. see cree 440, 441, 445, 509 Soldiersmot, alltisse sane meer 502, 504, 505, 506, 510 ASN Wismi@mell tiny, WhiSssccococcosc0ubuocnds 508 Gt pe) Tahoe, Lake, Tats aise perakeeveesee aoeetaet sear aay one oa aaa ices 64 FINESSE RS ag eecon sneee ara casaites hua ne Ae a A eae 73 ANE SUSI UIC eee ee Ore ROMAN Nn eee ene! ony SRL Na ON 343 HRCOS Ox sls AO Beat te Re Ae th dies Det ecu Mio we are 239 Meninitte/Sumest malliSe ek a Ach ee awe nits See oes 166 Diiames/ WRivier,-tlliSaces cus seer te 266, 267 Theseum, Athens, AT USis Sree et co ccmctesiete ORR es 306 Tigani, Riva dea see tester ieenn oak ry ee tn ee nel 245 dintagelamhnelandsaailltaseereeieee seer 40, 42. 43. 44, 45 Moyonkusen kasha. csi ee ete ae 80 Mowlousen wey tee ns 8 aes ee Re NEE ne Ree oe 433 MO UAITIO: Auch oe a MRO tice eaten ete apee ape ea ae ee 395, 4890 Mrayaness colummensecs ceca ces ee ne ee 361 Trafalgar Square, London, b BURCICS Sseseet chet Ab cea ao ei Raman eta rsetaioe ene nl San eet ul 278 Tree memory PERI Saa Eat Eee ate SOA at ton inet Mee eeu artn, Beale 73 rimid adwRiv. hana se Ge tees oa ee ane ees 163 routs. Rainbows ce tise nhee Soe, ee 73 Ruaolumnes Groves Calitorniasalltss. ane aoe. 790 SOY United States, The Re AWEVRSPOES: Ofer ce Ns osteo vee eee eieton 602 Developmenteprogram tones. sce ee eee 595 ducation,, Horemost industry, of... ose oes: 603 Gifts) oftccae arapci Glens ben cvaetacetal arsine Meee reso 594, 5905 iIindependenceofaree rere ceric 590, 501 Minerals c\toseitccs nee ene en ee Ne hae 590, 591 IMISSTO ra notes itace cis tetas ery eens rar ine ee 590 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page United States, The, Organization needéd:- im.: «ad. Se eee 606 Petroleum: in. oo. sce ons 1a eee 597 Public domain! of 53.05 0.2.13. eee 591 River in provement iO.) tere eerie 601 Rural progress ito ey. = ele) 605 Salt amine vot,, illus 7a tee 596 School ‘children in... .ss6)0 1: soe 594 Spirit: (OB. e566 sieiiie 6d wielere one hen Set ee 590 Water power: Of........ ccs oat ee erent 598 CONT Vathy, Rhodesia 25 tiie susce-0;0 61 Cleo eee 245 Vienizelos: 2c Vien td eee Saisie oe aeae tere eee 329 Vernal Falls, California, Was vase we died vig aes ar Ae ee RRO ee or 84 Versailles Palace, illus... ca oe eet iene 487 “VW”? Wallachiag ss f..00 2 26 iGo ee er ee 362 WARFARE ON OUR EASTERN COAST, THE. voc Watermelon patch, California, 1 Ce ISAC IS Gor soc ono sooo 592 Wedding, dance, Ay peculiar? 3. eee eee 416 Westminster Abbey, ee ee Ea RO aeeS Pind O06 287, 288, 289, 290 TeX coasters Sola 2 dae ne Ae eee 286 WHGLee Herman The Wonderland of Califoriaass see 57 Whiting, John D Jerusalem’s Locust Plague sin sac toed 511 Whitman’s prophecy... 4.6.5 Geen ee eee 78 Wight, Isle of, bi) Lek eee RRM ICE R AEN TG ta 4 ce oc 47, 51, 52; 53 Mit-> qa ee I Sie dia Sig do's ob Goo oe 4l Windlass Castle, illus:. «.sh.c.c iat ae eee 276 WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA, THE...... 57 WORED:S DEBE LO: ERANCE. Et D ae eeee 491 COW) Yellowstone National Park, 10) eee nee ae eam R oR otNIs Gin craalac.o of oo dc 99 Yosemite Falls, TVS ooo dois, See ese) ois valle ecco ene OI een 83 NWosemiite Nia tional bear |cseisiene enteritis 67 VMWSS, Sakeh/d vs loka Sake ohav sheee areca 82, 83, 84, 87, 89 Yucca, ak Text 5 sith Pie eee ee eee 57 MWS sce ee ee OE Ee eles e tel eel ee enn 65 VoL. XXVIII, No. 1 WASHINGTON JUEY, LOTS THE NATIONAL ‘GEOGRAPHIC | | MAGAZINE CHANNEL PORTS—AND SOME OTHERS By FLorREeNcE CraiG ALBRECHT Illustrations from Photographs by Emil Poole Albrecht and A. W. Cutler HE sturdy old vessel is coming into port after an eventless voy- aee.- even days of ceaseless plowing through a_ shimmering sea, under a great round dome, now radiant light, now dusky velvet, star-sprinkled. The Scillys have floated by, foam- washed, mist-wrapped, fairly islands in a magic world all cloud and water. The stately white shaft upon Bishops Rock has risen, passed our vision, and gone down on the western horizon. Lands End thrusts its rocky headland toward us, and back of it, softly purple, lays Cornwall and England. Steadily the ship goes on and smoothly the panorama passes—rock and headland and cliff, now green, now golden with gorse, now bare and rugged; inlet and bay and harbor, with here and there an isolated house, a tiny village, a preten- tious town, a great port. An unfriendly coast? Yes, j seas and winds, with thick sea-fogs—a dangerous one; rocks ever ready to tear holes in the stoutest vessel, currents ever ready to drive them on. But a pictur- esque coast; a wonderfully beautiful coast, both upon summer days and in winter storms; a coast with many har- bors, none too easy of entrance by rea- son of rocks and tides, many impossible for any but the smallest craft, but all made as serviceable as natural difficul- ties permit. with heavy It was their picturesqueness, not their serviceability, which once occupied us so delightfully through long sunny days “before the war.” ‘That there was no suggestion of warfare in them I will not say; there are, in fact, very few English or Cornish ports which along with their vivid smugglers’ tales do not mingle one or two of battle on sea or land. MEMORIES IN EVERY PORT Too many fleets have gone up and down the channel since history began not to have left memories in every possible port. But they were so long ago, those battles! So long ago that one saw merely the picturesque side of them—the valor, the courage, the victory; one saw the boats that came into harbor battered, perhaps, imperfectly manned, but with flags flying bravely and men_ cheering wildly ; one did not remember those that had sailed away to come back no more. How changed our thoughts today. The sea has closed over a bright young head we knew; not the glory, not the pride of victory flaunts its banners before our dazzled eyes; with clear, sad vision we mark the sorrow, the cost of war. What are they like now, those ports, big and little, along the British Channel; ports from which we have watched the fishing fleets sail to the north or come in heavy laden; ports where great ocean liners came and went perpetually; ports ‘O[IWE eB FO SJoJIeND-991Y} JMoqe FO g9dUe{sSIP & YseOd OY} PUL Osho UI YSI] 94} UoIMIJOq sulOoyjef Oc jO YJdap Vv St Woy, ‘“osnoyIysi’] sdiyssuo/yT oy} FO JYsnes osye st osdunjo YW “UY JO JUOIF UL doap Aulsy oy} JO VSURdXO ysvA JY} [LUM “pue] sur, UL SQUO}S OM} jSPI,, 94} se UMOUY A[IJepNdod o1v yeYyM UsIS oq AvUT oINjoId JY} FO 4fo] 94} UC SuUI}e[CUI9JUOD U9IS SI UPUT JSP] 9} 9 oe CNGIESGN Wale We BONER DIS Vs UND IE IN GE NTE SOUN IME IE WO) SROKA! BUA IE INO) Y T9JIND “MV Aq 007 AVONOMAN UVAN “ALWAd LY TSVOO HSINYOD AH AO Lid TAOSHAALOId AMIGHOONA CUM V IND “MV Aq 0700 Photo by A. W. Cuile A VILLAGE SCENE AT MOUSEHOLE: CORNWALL One of the few old Cornish villages that remain to a great extent as of yore. Mousehole was an important port before London was a town. To it and the other small Cornish harbors the Phcenicians came for tin centuries before the birth of Christ. CHANNEL PORTS—AND SOME OTHERS where huge squadrons of grim, gray men-of-war gathered silently? Penzance—what is Penzance today, the sunny pleasure-loving little sea city, whence came those picturesque stage- pirates that made tuneful our youth? The coast is no more beautiful here on Mounts Bay than elsewhere to east or west; not so rugged or so wild as on Cornwall’s northern shore, but the curve of green cliff is very smooth and lovely, the sun shines warmly; the roses bloom; every baby ripple murmurs a sea story; every tiny breeze brings a legend. It is a fascinating place not only for what it is, but what it suggests. Cornwall is Celtic, and to be Celtic is not only to believe in fairies, but to see them, and mermaids and pixies and many other fascinating things concealed from Anglo-Saxon eyes; so that a dull-witted tourist, unless he has been lucky enough to have had a Celtic great-grandparent— when, of course, he has “the sight’’— may find some things rather incompre- Hensinle: = 1s)to the pirates, let me tell two stories—one for those who under- stand, one for those who do not. GEEIDNG A FAIR START! At Breage they tell a story of Germoe; at Germoe it is told of Breage; but there was likely little to choose between them; they are neighbors on this rocky coast. In one parish church, then, or the other, in the midst of Sabbath service, a head was thrust in at the door and a hoarse mofeewenodked: A wreck! A wreck!” The congregation stirred uneasily ; a man half rose, then another; in a moment iene umes a stampede for the door. “Halt!” rang out a stentorious voice rom the pulpit; then, to the clerk, “An- thony, shut that door!” The congregation was well trained; it knew its vicar. Man, woman, and child, for children took no small part in the business of wrecking, stopped in their tracks; the door clanged shut Blandly the parson elbowed his way between business of wrecking, stopped in their pulpit; his coat as well. At the door he turned his hand on the latch: “Now, my dear brethren, now we shall This may consist of only a few old ‘boats, kept as shining examples of what ‘should not be in naval architecture, or it ‘may be a huge fleet, ranging from dread- Pnoughts to submarines. The boats come ‘Wand go constantly in summer weather for yPractice cruises, speed tests, target prac- ‘tice ; but occasionally there are maneuvers that bring them all together here, when Jone dwells with some amusement on the #150 ships which waited here 300 years ago for the ill-fated Armada. | There is a fearfully old Plymouth back of the modern, the Elizabethan port. J Trojans and giants wrestled upon the ~ Hoe, prehistoric man dug his rude cave dwellings in the cliff ; but it is impossible Mito consider all this believingly today. #The name of Plymouth brings the bang fof big guns, the crash of military music, the rush of swift boats, the fluttering of pennants, and the overwhelming natural loveliness of a favored port. | IN A PEA-SOUP FOG It must be at once stated, lest I hear a doubtful whistle, that Plymouth in a win- ter sea—worse yet, Plymouth in a chan- nel fog—is neither favored nor favor- able. She is not alone in suffering from those “pea-soup” fogs that make naviga- tion in the channel perilous, but it was fearfully exasperating to hear by wire- less from Southampton, “Beautiful sun- shine,’ while we fumbled outside of Ply- ‘mouth in a fog too thick to breathe. We had seen the fog ahead of us like ‘ya curtain as we steamed up the channel; } had slipped into it slowly, our bow dis- | appearing before our eyes like a con- ‘jurer’s trick, and in that wet whiteness, i like cool steam, we crept onward for hours. There is always speculation if, ina fog like that, the tender will come to “meet the boat; but in our case it did, and no sooner were our passengers and the fmail bags on it than we were crawling out again toward Cherbourg. The rest _of the story belongs there, but the tender bungled about the sound all night before Ait landed its wet, tired, sleepy passengers to ee eS F CHANNEL PORTS—AND SOME OTHERS Al at Mill Bay, which it usually reaches in 20 minutes. But as Southampton does not always have the sunshine nor Plymouth the fog, there need be no jealousies. The coast is dotted with picturesque but tiny ports; after one has seen Plymouth these seem insignificant. And Southampton, while a great port, is not a rival; for while Ply- mouth makes no bid for great merchant- men, Southampton invites them, leaving the care of naval vessels to her neighbor, Portsmouth, the chief naval station in England. Both are protected from the channel’s rougher moods by the Isle of Wight, which lays, bluntly diamond-shaped, be- fore them. Spithead, the roadstead be- tween Portsmouth and Ryde, one of the chief ports of the island, is left largely to the naval fleet, while the merchantmen come and go through the Solent to Southampton. WHERE THE TIDES MEET It is at the mouth of the Solent that one passes the famous Needles, three white, jagged chalk rocks off the western end of the isle—picturesque enough in summer weather, but dangerous in storm. The tides sweep in upon both sides of the Isle of Wight, that from the North sea, that from the ocean, and prolong high water for two hours (see page 47). To this as well as to its sheltered posi- tion Southampton owes its importance. The town lays upon a point between two rivers, the Itchen and the Test, the whole lower end of this point being devoted to wharves, docks, and basins accommodat- ing the largest vessels. More than 3,000 vessels enter the port yearly, many of them huge ocean liners, but since the be- ginning of the war Southampton has been entirely closed to shipping. — Its present defenselessness may be in part responsible, for. while once. a fortified place, the remnants of its walls and gates are NOW preserved ,tiercly for vtweit picturesque or historic values; but its proximity to Portsmouth is the stronger reason. Portsmouth is strongly fortified and is an important garrison town as well as rep eee t Ba at Sia ey: Se aw? £62. eee ales S A” Sa THE ROAD TO THE CLIFFS AND SKA. TINTAGEL On the cliff to the left are the ruins of the “Castle of King Arthur,” where Arthur’s knights sat at the round table. “Seeing his end was near, Arthur bade his last faithful ¥ knight to carry him to Bozmare Pool and throw in there his sword. Three queens appeared and bore him away from his sorrows. Some say he still lives in fairyland and eventually will reappear to reinstate his Order of Knights of the Round Table” (see page 25). Photo by Emil P. Albrecht THE RUINS OF KING ARTHUR'S CASTLE: TINTAGEL, ENGLAND Of the earliest castle there remains little trace. Briton and Saxon had their strongholds here, but the few ruined battlements left today are probably no earlier than Norman times. Scores of sheep pasture fearlessly on the slippery slopes which plunge so swiftly to the sea. The whole “island” seems once to have been within the fortified area that was Arthur’s stronghold. ‘There are remains of a small chapel, a well, and a so-called hermit’s cave on the plateau which forms the high ground of the “island.” 43 Photo by Emil P. Albrecht IN THE “GREAT HALL’ OF TINTACEL CASTLE: TINTAGEL; ENGLAND The hall is open to the sky, the sun and stars look down in turn upon its turf-clad floor, the grasses grow where once Ygrayne watched the siege of Castle Terrabil and her husband’s defeat, where she married, that same day, his conqueror. It was of this marriage that that Arthur was born who organized the Knights of the Round Table and sent them on their mission of punishing vice and rescuing oppressed virtue, for the love of God and of some noble lady. | 44 ; e ig — Photo by Emil P. Albrecht THE DOOR OF THE KEEP: TINTAGEL CASTLE, TINTAGEL, ENGLAND Narrow. steep steps lead from it down the cliff. It is the only exit or entrance. From it one has a glorious picture of swirling, pounding water, the Atlantics strongest swell; of rock, black and foam-wrapped, and green cliff basking in the sun. 45 7 = ¥ ¢ = i Vi « ae oo *(ZE osed 4x0} 99S) .Yd}jNIO UdyYOIq oY} Pusu pue JOY }YSII 0} no uIN}4 ysnut ePuEy Je pue ‘opisur dn ssury} surssout ‘9z00 94} UO JOAO S[I9y JOSSIA JY} SYeIIq sol & woUM ‘pues oY} UO }I SoAvIT BAS BY} UIYM IAI] PH Bion 0} Sso], IO S9yojNIO YIM poplaosd SI yeoq AJOAyT ‘ooURTNGWIe Ue IOF YSIM JOU poo 9UO j So] Jo, 9YOIG DAV, , woasaey, 10 OIZZI’T IO ates yey} SUT][eD IIOA o9STeOY we SIeOY QUO F],, ‘gnbsoanjord AySMO;aAITeUL st I JoWUINS UT “19}[9YsS snoreoo1d e JoJUIM UT pure SPUIM U19}S9aM 9Y} 0} pasodxo syoOI OY} UL WoT B Inq st ysod aYT “s}eoq Surysy oy} Joyoue 0} pasn oie ‘spurs A[Surys om oy} UO YorTq soyeus oy A ‘SUIeyO Jeois OY y, (Se TOVd AAS) AGM, MOT LV YOMUVH AH, :OVVSI LAO 46 “JOJVM JY} JO yo dn tttdt} yysno01q Aqpeuy s[eAvolA [e109 ax] yonu ‘TOJVM JOpUN syeunUue suv Aut} yo yisodop 94} Aq PoUlIOF IIOM SHS Y[PYS oso], ‘yovoaq dy} UO INS uRWINnY sy} AQ PayorpuUr st SFT 9sayy Fo JYSIoy OT, “ley sy} wlos1y opeul oq O}F posh Ose sivok WNP osneddq PoI][vI os—Avq wnyy UO JoUulvo}s oinseojd [Jus & JO Yop oy} wo1ry avodde SHI] VY] MOY SI sIYy “YIOA MoN pur uoJIWIeYINOG Ud9IMyoq SulAd Stoul] UvID0 UO siaS8uossed 0} }SdJOJUL JVIIS JO SALAM] JIU SHO A[eYO 9soy J, . e . . \. SHIGUIN FILL, UVAN LIOIM WO WISt AHL NO INII-ISVOO UML MUVN HOIHM SiqITIO MTIVHO GawtOTOO-ANVW WIT, JIPIND “MV 4q 040d 47 TT —_aeaees “(Ze a8ed 998) SUOJIG JUSIUR 91} FO SOTOI JaYyIO pur ‘sopos19 9u0ys ‘SITyUaUT AUPUE suTeyUOD yy IOS Ayead Jo a8uods v YW paidaod apuvIAS Jo dummy snons “UCU V—-PUP]IOOUL SUIAT-YOIY,, B SB Paqisiosap Usoq SBY YIIYM “JOOWNIeC] Sol] IULYSIP oY} UP “}I JOOW OF JUAM oY d10Joq OWLS siy YSIUY pynom ynq ‘posysis SUM BpeULIY Ystueds oY} UoyM OOF{ 9Y} UO osoY S[Mod Surkeyd sem oyeICY sUeIY NG ‘ayes(] sloUeIY, IG JO SE }Ja] ay} UO oNjr}s oy GNV'IONG “HLOOWATd :GNNOS THI DNIMOOTIAAO AGVNAWOUd ANIA V WOH AHL yoIIQTV ‘qd [ry Aq oyoyg ( ig ROEM DR: SYNTAX = Photo by A. W. Cutler A REMARKABLE NATURAL CURIOSITY AT LANDS END The 10-mile drive between Penzance and Lands End is rich in history and archeology. One passes Carn Bran, where Wesley is supposed to have preached to vast crowds of miners; Boscawen, with its stone circle handed down by the ancients, and “first and last hotel in England,” although it is no longer that. “Old Doctor Syntax” shares his honors with “Armed Knight” and “Irish Lady,’ who are also graven in stone by Nature’s hand. e : : : soos = SN Photo by mil P. Albrecht EAST LOOE: ENGLAND One hears many stories in Looe-—stories of pirates, of war, of smuggling, of mermaids village by the sea must and pixies—but it is needless to say the best of all stories told in a be of fish. It would be pleasant to know if this one is still growing. While the men tell the stories, the women knit dark-blue jerseys; no sooner is one finished than another 1s begun. Looe also boasts of golf links, where the well-to-do come to play, and one knows not which are the longer, the fish caught in Looe’s waters or the drives made on Looe’s links, for both fishermar. and golfer sometimes measure with the same elastic yardstick. 50 ssouunct odes st punoi8yoerq ou} UT ‘“JOWWNS dy} UI SuTUIOW Ya poUTezIojUO oI “4 SI JO 91ST ‘UITYUeYS 0} SIOJISIA MO qd Oy 2 EG SUF oT tite (EE ; uh peu! YStM FO s[S]T Ulpyuey po H AVM SLI SANIT. OISAIN GTNOM AHI JO SHANYXOD TNIVG© tH eOnNT Ign) “M “Vv 4q 070Ud ‘oquiooinpinddy jo y1ed OTN “MM “V Aq OJON SYUOU UT}IIPIUa YOUIIT FO aiUOY ay} MOU puUe ‘AITSIONA JAIGOY IG FO 93e4S9 9} aoUO SHOW} OY} SI Ul|YULYS Wolf IV} JON “punoisyoeq oy} UI ssouUNC ode) ‘puUr{s! dy} UO j10Sa1 apIseas teyndod jsour YWHOIM WO AISI :NIIMNVHS LV HOVAd HH NO ANOS V UL THE OLD FOUNTAIN- AT THE VILLAGE Made famous by Longfellow, whose poems fellow once lived in this village. Although only the Vectis of the Romans, is rich in history and of its shore-line is occupied by villages, large and (oa i) Photo by A. W. Cutler OF SHANKLIN: ISLE OF WIGHT seen above refer to this fountain. Long- 65 miles in circumference, Isle of Wight, abounds in beautiful scenery; almost half small. i s me ~~ Re, YE on is DOROTHY PENTREATH Ge PIE IN (SAID TC HAVE BEEN THe | AST PERSON WHO CONYERSED “18 THE ANCIENT CORNISH THE PEONIAR LANGUAGE OF 4 THIS COUNTY FROM THE EARLIEST BECORDS TILL 1F EXPIRED in THE GHEEENTH CEN TUE ¥ J VIS PARISE OF SAINT PAUL. 1S STONE 1S ERECTED ay THE PRINCE LOUIS LUCIEN BONAPARTE IR UmION wire THE REV? JOHN CARRETT — WICAM GF St Bau” — JUNE ise. : HoNoUR THY FATHER ain Tay morecn: THAT TH’ GAYS MAY BE Lone veo THE LAND WHIEH THE Logo «Hy Coo | EIVETH THEE, a GWHA PERTHI BE TAz WA Ob Man: BSL GE BY EHigw HEF MENS BYR wan AN TVR NEG 4N ABLETH BE Br Ww OVES OhEex ~*Exen. xx. 1g Photo by A. W. Cutler A MEMORIAL TO THE LAST SURVIVOR OF THE CORNISH-SPEAKING RACE Eighty-seven years after Dorothy Pentreath died, and with her the Cornish language from living tongue, this monument was erected to her memory by Prince Bonaparte and ican Garkect Wirmctekyawl: 54 Photo by Emil P. Albrecht THE NEEDUES 2 SOUPEAMPTON These are jagged chalk rocks resting upon bases of darker stone rising 100 feet from the sea, a warning and a menace to mariners bound for Southampton. Cowes, with the best harbor on the island, is at westernmost point of the Isle of Wight. The cliffs form the its northernmost point, opposite Southampton and but two miles from the mainland. Ryde, farther to the east, is almost directly opposite Portsmouth, the great naval station. The island is about 65 miles in circumference and rises nearly 800 feet above the sea. chief naval base. It is made up, of four towns — Portsea, Southsea, Landport, and Portsmouth — smallest, but name- giver, and has a magnificent harbor nearly five miles long, reaching into Spit- head. PORTSMOUTH’S DOCKYARDS The dockyard covers 300 acres, the re- pairing basins 60 acres, and there are drydocks and building slips capable of holding the largest superdreadnought. Southampton docks are probably in use also at present for naval purposes. Spit- head and the Solent are mined; there are no crowds on the cliffs above Ryde, no yacht squadron fluttering its white sails in and out of Cowes. In these days, when history is in the making, it seems futile to recall the past; yet one old memory will be heard even today. It was on Southampton shores that Canute rebuked the courtiers who proclaimed his command of the sea. Probably those double tides were puz- zling to the Danes. Ah, they were stirring days! Yet not more so than now. Go on round the coast, 1f you will, from port to port, com- ing finally to where Dover faces France. Ask the castle on the white cliff there what it has seen—Roman, Saxon, Dane, and Norman; how the invaders come; how, too, the white fleets go out to meet them. And now again there is war in the channel and the rocks and forts keep guard. “Keep then the sea that is the wall of England.” The cry is four centuries old; but bravely the ports, little and big, have kept the word and today would keep it still. 5 5 Aje}] UIIY MOS FO Jey} oI] oeWNT{S Ss} pue uogsI’T JO Jey} SI Opnze, Sip “JusTIG dy} 0} AeMo}eS oY] Pue jseOd SYISegG dy} JO Jsodeas jJaryo oy} ST OISTIUVIY UeS Jey} SOPUOM Tews ‘rOGqr1eY pPIpus|ds pue Sunjos onbsainjord A[SUINIIYS Ss} YA “JOAO P]1OM oY} UdWIvES 0} UMOUY oie B SI YF pue YUOWsLT [eJoWU ay} Aq oY} YSnoryy st “YISus, Ul solu OAY JNoqe ‘AVG ODSOURIY UG JUdYIUSeUL ay} OF UkI9Q OY1OVG oY} WoIZ OOsIOUrIT Ue ALVO NAGIOND ONIMALNA SHIQKLL, ‘D “H Aq o104g ORE ‘ BS Rare Ses poles Os ‘a}ex4) Uapypory) S 0} d0ue1}U9 oI, THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA By Herman WHITAKER MareoRtor. LHe PLANTER,’ “Tar SETTLER: * “Cross-TRaits,” Eyre. ROM her earliest beginnings Cali- fornia was steeped in romance. Within her borders the early dis- coverers placed “El Dorado,” the fabu- lous land whose shining streams rippled over boulders of solid gold, and history aided their pleasant conspiracy. For two centuries the silver-laden Spanish gal- leons laid their courses from the Philip- pines to Cape Mendocine, then skirted a thousand miles along the Californias on their way south to Panama—a fact well known to Sir Francis Drake, the gallant pirate, who laid up his vessel, the Golden Hind, to wait for them in a little harbor northward of San Francisco Bay. Later came the brown-robed padres and Dons in buff and scarlet to color the land with their picturesque life and invest it with dreamy, religious idealism. If more practical, the “gold rush” of ’49 was nevertheless merely the successful sequel of the search for “El Dorado,” and established forever that fabled land within California’s borders. Surely, in view of all this, a heavy dis- count of her pretensions would seem in- evitable; yet out of the full knowledge gained by 20 years’ roaming within her borders I do not hesitate to assert that California is the customary exception to every rule—gains instead of depreciates on closer acquaintance. First impressions are always vital, and one of California’s principal assets in- heres in the fact that, whether you come from the north, south, east, or west, she is not to be caught like a slovenly beauty, in negligée, with her stockings down at peeme lee! THE LAND OF LITTLE RAIN It would be better, of course, if you could come in by trail, as in the old days, with a white-tilted prairie schooner that pitched up and down or wallowed in the sandy trough of blue ranges that run like breaking waves across the desert from Old Mexico to the Canada line. A closer intimacy would be established between you and the country. But, seen through a car window, the desert, with its lonely mesas, monolithic masses that loom in violet distances, is beautiful beyond de- scription—unless it be that of Mary Aus- hin hiveel andhotede ttle. ain). This is the heart of it, that magic land swathed in golden sands and girded with crimson and chrome mountains that sometimes wear around their brows a cooling band of snow. From the shim- mering horizon the shining wastes of the Mojave run northward across Death Val- ley between the high Sierras and certain broken ranges almost to the Yosemite. It is a country useless from man’s point of view, and the bones of many an ad- venturer testify to the fact; vet it yields a living to its own little animals and plants that burrow or sink their roots down to the water under its kiln-baked sands. Over the whitening bones snakes and lizards, horned toads, the Gila mon- ster, coney and jack-rabbit frisk or crawl in unconscious cynicism. They are scorned by the soaring vul- ture; likewise the lone coyote that stands on a sand hummock and blinks at your train. Over the shining surfaces, that re- flect like huge mirrors the intolerable glare of the sun, broods a breathless calm. But this is broken, on occasion, by wind- puffs that lift the alkali in sudden whorls. Always they are to be seen, these little winds, dancing over the hot face of the desert A REGION OF YUCCA AND CACTI Southward the desert runs to yucca, grotesque shapes that march with the train for leagues upon leagues, flinging their shrunken arms lke posturing dwarfs. Elsewhere cactus chaparral clothes the nakedness of the land, and, in its season, this blossoms into sudden beauty. The yellow blooms of the hui- siche, vermilion tips of the okatilla, ma- genta buds of the nopal, and “crucifixion = pos rE aan ae ae ee a ng ee 5 ete : a RE SR Sr ee “SUOIJISOGX*] JO UOTISOPXF dy} JUOWIASIYOV SUIUMOID VSL P[IOM 9} OF UALS savy o[dood sues ssoy} Jnq—sowoy [eyeyed pue syoo]q ssoursnq suridesos-Ays JO AjId SNOLOLS puv }JIIG LP—SoYSe S}l WOIF YINGoaI UdIsq AJUO JOU SvY APD ay} stead fo ueds yOYS }eYR ULYIIM ‘QYOIJS B 3 JNO podim ynq [[e SVM P[IOM SsauIsNY JSBOD IYO’ OY} JO 49}N99 YAJOU OY} “PpoopUl + PoUIN4s AT[VIoQUvUY PUL ssoJaWOY Pd1epuods O10M ‘A1O}SIY INO UL poyenbo Ayoo1eds 91y & AG PoyeJSPAP SVM AJID OY} ‘PotoG(WoWt oq [JIM Jl “OG SIvIK JIOYS DUINY “SU9ZI}ID SH JO UOTeUL Aepo} Spurjs Oosrouesy ues JOA spursnoy |, -Jo}op SSojpunoq pue ‘AB1oUa ‘a8einod oY} 0} JUsWMUOLY e puke JO pNOId og [JOM ALU UVSTIOWY AJA JY} APO v AVI AHL SSOUOV STIIH AHI GNV OOSIONVYT NVS JO MAIA V SHIGILL “OD “EI 4q 090Ud ° THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA 59 thorn” splash the dull green of the sage- brush with color. But during the dry season—and that is most of the year—the sage runs, an ashen sea, to saw-toothed ranges that scratch the distant sky. If repellant at first, all of these different faces grow on acquaintance, become beautiful at last, as the smile of an old friend. Those who know the desert in its intimate moods do not altogether favor the dry farming and irrigation projects that threaten its 1n- finite spread. Though the desert appears dead-flat to the eye, it really runs in a series of levels, and as your train climbs from one to another, the engine gasps like a heart- broken runner and pauses often to drink at. small, ramshackle towns, any one of which might have furnished the model for “Wolfville.” Each fences a few rods of track from the yellow expanse, with a double row of sun-bleached shacks. Each has its Chinese restaurant and trading store, with bright Navajo rugs spread out on the veranda. SPREE JGR Always the street begins, ends, and is absurdly full in the middle with saloons, on the verandas of which lounge a mixed crowd of cowmen, Indians, and Mexican peons. At first sight they appear hope- lessly squalid; but, like the desert. they grow on acquaintance. When viewed with the eye of knowledge, they blossom with sunset colors. The train slides on over the edge of the desert and drops down into the sub- tropical luxuriance of southern Califor- nia with a suddenness that is almost dis- concerting. Through a succession of vineyards and orchards, in whose glossy depths citrus fruits glow and burn, the train runs in a couple of hours into the bright, clean city of Los Angeles. AN HISTORIC MISSION It now behooves one to step rever- ently, for this is holy ground. The Mis- sions of San Antonio de Padua, San Luis Rey, and San Diego lie close to that city, in which the San Diego Exposition, a lovely section of Moorish Spain, is just as much at home as in its native country. Just outside of Los Angeles stands. too, the famous old Mission of San Ga- briel. Erected in 1771, it possessed in its: prime four “Asestencias,”’ one of which,. the Church of Nuestra Senora la Retna de Los Angeles, was built when the proud and ambitious city was still a small Mexican hamlet, with a total population Oly aACOOmsoMls! Or thes 22° missions erected by the padres, San Gabriel is per- haps the best known. BELLS OF SAN GABRIEL In addition to the historical associa- tions that cluster thick around its vener- able walls, it has been a favorite subject of poem and story. Stevenson wrote about it, and Charles Warren Stoddard’s poem, “The Bells of San Gabriel,” rings out like their rich chimes, carrying one back to the pastoral age, when the wan- dering tribes flocked from the woods and valleys to the mission’s folds. There could be no pleasanter trip than to follow the footsteps of the padres up the coast. You will have to. go ahorse, HOmether waywtde larhow mule path, 1s sometimes washed by the Pacific surf, and again it leads into the heart of the mountains. The good padres had a fine feeling for Nature, and whenever the trail slips from a mountain’s shoulder into a fertile valley you will find a mis- sion in a more or less perfect state of preservation. i Of La Purisima Concepcion there re- mains little more than a ruined cloister rising amidst the long grass and oaks of a hill-bound plain; but its close neigh- bors, San Buenaventura and Santa Bar- bara, are almost as good as new. Matins and vespers are still intoned in their dim chapels. You may see the soft-eyed padres walking and talking in their pleas- ant garden, or watch the lay brothers swinging hoe and shovel at their daily tasks. | Above San Simeon the trail disdains all commerce with other ways and runs for 90 miles under its own dignities and ile ote Ihe Old Spanish Trail.” With absolute divorce from them comes also the assurety that you are following the very path blazed by Junipero Serra and used by his followers in their journey- “ammprd payeyduros 9Y} 93n}WSUOD 7yeY} suorjerrdsur oY} IO} Poyoesuer usoq savy “UIdYINOG sy} pue ssoYdstwoapT usdyION ody} ‘\UITIO, IY} PUL JUSPINIQ 9Y} ‘yuaso1d oy} pue ysed ayy, “HW plOso1 0} paplef IAVY So[ITUOIYD oY} “AIeZ BIUIOJIED years oy} UeYy ArOASTY UI snossi10s AT[NfINesq s1OW SuryyAue I9A9d Sem 9194} jt pue ‘ooo'hig juods dyroeg-ewreueg oy} ‘suluapies odeospur] Joy ase ue o00'€$ juads UOTTSOdXy sseyINg CURISMO’T 9Y} sIIY AA “SITET S,P[1OM JO AtOJsIY VITUS OY} UI SuIYyJAUe sossedins UOI}IsOdx’y oyloeg-ewuleueg ay} ‘SsulUapses odeospur] pure ‘oinjooyryoie “1ojoo ul Apnjis e& sy SLYV ANIA FO AOVIVd AHL ; "0D einjorg Arnqsy[tg Aq ojoyg 60 sores gjqvooisesip JO UOL|sessns v JOU SI d1OY} JEY} Poyo1IP FSI] OY} SI ATM} Iopuom OS Joh pure ‘posn SI UOT] Bw J[ey JO 1aMOd-a[pued VY ‘yog SO Sutsia sureyunof OM} AQ PozeUrUUN]y! st Sd1ov Ud} UY} 9IOUL FO voIe Ue eon VAhOD dy} FO inepued IS 94} YIM ANNO ul Ayysnos0yy ‘KPUSIP Ul XPUNJO S}I SoyVoL UOTVUIUINTT! 9} D1DYM ‘ISIOATUL) IY} JO JINOD OY} OJUT SosJOWIO IOPSIA 9} ‘JANOS URTOUDA B YSsno1y} Sursseg NOS ONISIY THT FO HOUV CNV NOS ONIDGHS AHL FO NIVINNOA AHL G4VMOL OSNIMOOT “ASUHAIND FHI TO TANOO AHL NI o- ornqorg Arngqsyt_d Aq OJoyg 61 THE OW BR OR a EWS Ade. IN UGA Nothing short of genius could conceive the lighting effects of the Exposition, which were planned and executed by W. D’A. Ryan, of the General Electric Company. The gradual illumination at night is bewildering in its soft gradations of color and seems like a living page from the Arabian Nights. The reflection is in the West Lagoon of South Garden. 62 THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA 63 ings up and down the coast. Where your knee touches the worn face of a rock at a bend, there is a thrill in the thought that it was once touched by Juni- pero’s robe. Apart from these interesting historical associations, however, the trail is worth following for its own sake. For miles it runs like a narrow ribbon around the spurs and canyons at 1,000 feet elevation, almost perpendicular, above the blue sea. At no place is it wider than a mule’s ‘read; wherefore pack-animals must be loaded carefully, for a scrape on the landward side has sent many a one down to its death on the surf-washed rocks pelow. Next it climbs 4,000 feet to the crest of the range and lays at your feet, if not the whole world, at least a good slice of California—mountains and valleys on the one hand; on the other the vast blue sea. Then it drops again and enters the first of the redwoods; winds among pillar- like trunks in rose-brown shade, leaps silver streams, and so by wood, sea, and mountain comes presently to the Valley of the Sur, where the sunlight breaks in golden rain down through lacing alders and the river sings for you the same old song it gave to Junipero Serra. From one thing to another, it leads on till the Carmel Mission heaves into view across a blue arm of the sea: and if you are in luck the mellow tone of a bell may come drifting across, spacing the roar of the surf, for services are sometimes held there. HUNTING GRIZZLIES WITH STRYCHNINE In a perfectly unfair and unkindly, yet quite natural, way, by liberal use of strychnine, the rancheros of the last gen- eration wiped out the grizzlies. But the lynx is still plentiful. The mountain- lion quite often leaves his sign-manual in the form of a fresh-killed steer. The country abounds in deer. So many they are and hunted so little, they are very bold. Often they have followed me along the Spanish trail, and one night they came in droves to nibble fallen ap- ples in the orchard of an abandoned farmstead where I had pitched my camp. Trout are to be had in the streams in numbers that tempt one beyond the limit, and if you yearn for a change of fishing, a whale may be seen spouting offshore almost any day! What use you would have of him, supposing you caught him, is another question. Sea-otter, however, is more- practica- ble. Once in a while a pair will be seen, rolling in the surf or lying on their backs, playing with seaweed or bits of flotsam and jetsam like sportive kittens. So hu- man they are that to kill one savors of murder; but dry salted, the skin brings from one to two thousand dollars on the market, and this goes a long way toward balancing sentimental regrets. { suppose that Padre Serra, in the comfortable fashion of his day, spent at least a week covering the distance be- tween Santa Barbara and Monterey. The railroad covers it in a few hours and offers second choice of route up the San Joaquin Valley, the great central valley of California. It averages from 40 to 50 miles wide and runs for 500 miles and lies, a great level lake of sunshine, be- tween the towering, richly colored walls of the Sierra Nevada and Coast Range. GEOGRAPHY THE SERVANT OF FICTION Oueer how closely geography is linked with fiction! Just as “Kipling” spells “India” for the majority of folks, so, by virtue of “The Octopus,” Frank Norris owns the San Joaquin. Nowadays, how- ever, he would find it hard to recognize his own, for gone, gone forever are the enormous wheat ranchos that filled the valley between the mountains with roll- ing seas of grain and furnished the mo- tif for his story. Yet the change is for the _ better. Chopped into a thousand vineyards and orange groves, the old ranchos now sup- port populations of five or six thousand, where previously they gave employment to a hundred or two of nomad laborers for a short period of the year. It is a wonderful country, this—rich, fat-soiled, laced with shining rivers that reverse the usual order of things and dwindle from good beginnings, where they issue from the Sierra canyons, into sterile river beds. Led through a thou- sand canals and ditches out to the thirsty es Courtesy of Southern Pacific Railway Co. CAVE ROCK: LAKE TAHOE, CALIFORNIA ealsiie lake of lakes, a huge iridescent mirror, of 30 miles diameter, set in a frame of deep forests and snow-clad mountains” (see text, page 73) Photo by George R. King YUCCA: SIERRA MADRE, CALIFORNIA “Southward the desert runs to yucca, grotesque shapes that march with the train for leagues upon leagues, flinging their shrunken arms like posturing dwarfs. Elsewhere cactus chaparral clothes the nakedness of the land, and, in its season, this blossoms into sudden beauty. The yellow blooms of the huisiche, vermilion tips of the okatilla, and the magenta buds Nes NOP GUN em splash the dull green of the sage-brush with color” (see text, page 57 65 «, SHOES PU SYULQMOUS }eI13 S}I YIM ‘I[qISIA ATIed]O o1e PpPAIN BIIOIS 94} FO S919 YOO} “MeS ‘Possel JO sap uodn sayiut Ysed oY} 0} SUIYOO*T ~IOAII 9} M-MOUS ‘SULIVOI B SINOd YIYM IZAO ‘Fs]D dy} JO aseq oy} We SUI[JSOU JSPT[IA UIey “uno Jurenb of} ‘Moyo ojrur J[ey-9uo ‘usas aq URS ddUSYM WOIT ‘s][eM UoAURD dt} JO do} oy} 0} dU ssulIq YSeqas1oy uO opr4 Sinoy Mop Y,, MUVd ALINASOA “ANWOd IVALNAD JO LINWAS AH, WOM SVUUNAIS HOLM AHL SINGIN, *D “H Aq 104g 66 THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA 67 land, their waters are transmuted by the suns secret chemistry into olives and figs, peaches and nectarines, citrus fruits, nuts, raisins, dried fruits: amber wines elear as the Sierra air; a wealth of pro- duce that justifies a report similar to that which the Israelite spies brought from the Land of Canaan—‘a land flowing with milk and honey.” THE VALLEY OF HEAVEN From the town of Merced, midway of the valley, a branch railway runs up the river of the same name to California’s crowning glory, the Yosemite National Park. Lacking the immensity of the Grand Canyon of Arizona, it is still one of the world’s greatest gorges. From the edge of beautiful forests you overlook 7 miles of the canyon, that averages in width from a half mile to a mile and is hewn a mile deep in the solid granite of the range. Many books have been written about the Yosemite and the companion valley, etch - Hetchy. Some are wonderful -books—great books like those of John Muir—which communicate as much as may be conveyed through words of the grandeur of its vistas, nobility of its gran- ite spires and domes, beauty of the lacy falls that leap from the rim into the depths beneath. Yet when all is told the wonder and mystery of Yosemite still re- main unfolded. The feeling it inspires lies in the domain of the “incommuni- Cable,” that thrills, but lies beyond the province of words. It has to be seen to be telt: Muir writes of it: “No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life. Some lean back in majestic repose ; others absolutely sheer, or nearly so, for thousands of feet, advance beyond their companions in thoughtful attitudes. Awful in stern, immovable maj- esty, how softly these rocks are adorned, and how fine and reassuring the company they keep; their feet among beautiful groves and meadows, their brows in the sky, a thousand flowers leaning confid- ingly against their feet, bathed in floods of water, floods of light, while the snow and waterfalls, the winds and avalanches and clouds shine and sing and wreathe them about as the years go by, and myr- iads of small winged creatures—birds, bees, butterflies—give glad animation and fill the air with music. “Down through the middle flows the crystal Merced, River of Mercy, peace- fully quiet, reflecting liles and trees and the onlooking rocks: things frail and fleeting and types of endurance meeting and blending in countless forms, as if into this one mountain mansion Nature had gathered her choicest treasures to draw her lovers into close and confiding communion with her.” Yet, wonderful as it is, Yosemite is still but one of a hundred—aye, a thou- sand—canyons, great gorges from two to five thousand feet deep, great streets of the mountains. THE MONARCHS OF THE TREE KINGDOM This, too, is the country of the big tree, Sequoia gigantea, the king of all forests. Within 20 miles of Yosemite stand three great groves—Merced, Mari- posa, and Tuolumne. Below Kings River, however, redwood forests run un- broken for nearly 70 miles; and they are also to be found in scattered tracts along the coast and in the interior, running northward for about 300 miles. Here, as with Yosemite, words fail in the attempt to convey an adequate im- pression of these noble trees. As old as the Pyramids, taller than man’s greatest monuments, and more enduring, they rise in serene majesty above the lower for- ests. In the Calaveras grove four trees exceed 300 feet in height. John Muir once measured a fallen monarch that ran 340 feet over all and was 35 feet 8 inches in-diameter 4 feet above the ground. A count of the rings proved it to be 4,000 years old. It was indeed, in its prime, a noble tree, 27 feet in diameter at the beginning of the Chris- tian era. A curious thing about the big tree in- heres in the fact that it keeps an accurate chart of the pulsations of climate. In wet seasons it naturally adds a larger rim to its growth, and so, by their measure- ment, a weather curve may be plotted back through the ages. *(Z9 o8ed 94x09} 90S) ,.j SISNUT YIM Ie oY} [[Y pue uoeUTUe pe[s dAIS—soIp10}3nq ‘sooq ‘spiiq—soinyeo19 posuIM [ews Jo speishu pue ‘Aq os sivaX ay} se Jnoqe Woy} sy}eIIM PUP SUIS PUR dUTYS Spnojs pue soypURTeAe pue spuUTM oY} ‘sT]eyJ1oj~EM pue MOUS 9Y} IIIYM 4s] Jo Spooy “JoyB@M JO SpooH Ur oyyeq “Joof Joy} Jsurese A[SuUIpyUOD SuTUvaT sIaMOY PURSNOY} B ‘AYS 9} UI SMOIG IY} ‘SMOpeaW pue sodAoI8 [Hyynesq SuOWe Joo} toy} ‘ dvay Aoy} Auedur0d oy} SulInsseot pue ouy MOY pur ‘poutope a1e SyIOI asay} APJos Moy ‘Ajsofeur spqeaoutun ‘uso}S UT [N}MY,, WNIOd YAIOWTIO WOU HWOd WIV SHIGIKL, “OH 4d coud 68 ‘(Z9 a8ed 4x9} 90S) plo sivdh O00 aq 0} HI padoid SSuII S}I JO JUNOD YW ‘puNnoIS oy} sAoqe Joo} V juIod & ye JoJIWIIP UI SoYyoUT g oof GSE seM puP [][e JOAO Joo} OVE ULI Jey} YOIeUOW UDT][VLE ev poinsevou d9uU0 JIN] UYOf “jYSIOy UT Joof OOE pddX9 S991} INOF DAOIL) SEIDALTLD IY} UL “JS9IOF JSA9MOT JY} DAOKV AjsofeUl DUIIOS UT 9ST Ady} ‘SULINPUD IIOW PUP ‘S}JUSUINUOW 4So}vaIs SUPUT UY} JoT[e} “spluretIAq oY} se pjO SY *s90J1} dJqou 9S9y} JO UOISsoIduit oyenbape ue ADAUOD O} jdUI9}}e JY} UT [IVF SPIOM ‘O}IWIISOR YIM SB ‘9IdF{,, “}SoJCoIS SIFF IIV LIUTOFI[e) JO S}solO} POOMPdA JURIS OY} {dui} jst Spor) IIOM SOAOIS 9} FT VINYOALIVO “MHHUD VACTINOG YVAN “MUVd GOOMGHA ALVIS VINYOAIIVO “A’ISIV WYLSIO'TIO SIIqqLL “OD "H 4q 004d ‘(6S osed ‘yx9} 998) uol}eAJososd JO 9784S JOoJsod sso] 10 91OW B Ul UOISSIuUl B PUY [[IM nok ‘AgT][VA I]Ij1oF BV OJUL Jopjnoys sureyunoWw e Wor; Sdiyjs [1e1} 9yy JOADUIYM pur ‘9IN}eU JOJ Suljaey ouy ev pey Somped poos oy, ‘“SUIeJUNOUT 9Y} FO JARoY OY} OJUT Spe] jt Urese pu “Fins dYyIOeq sy} Aq poyseAr souttjouos st ‘yyed anu MOsIeU ve ‘eM oy} JOF ‘assOye OS 0} dAvY [JIM HOA ‘yseVoo oy} dn soiped dy} Fo sdo}sjoo} oy} MOTJOF 0} UeYY dit} J9}URSvayd OU oq P]Nod osayy,,, VINUOAIIVO “ASOL NVS :NOISSIW MWIVGW'IVd lO SANAOYND AH, 70 Wada TI4)—_, JOSIOF pue SUIAIIS1OF PJIOM 9}, ‘MOIIOS AIOAD WOIF ISVIDINS PUY {[B UdIp]IyO ‘UaWOM PUL UDdUI “svaiq sainyeN jo A}ISUJWIWUT 9} UL porting -PJEM 9SOY} OFUL MOTJOF JOUURS oIe “AL{d OJ sjoofqns sty Sur[eo “pyo yo se sodid uvg yoR ueiypyseg yey} Aq pur ‘I9puod I9AO snl Sol] VINYOALIVO :\ISVOO AUWILNOW BULY “Y 981005) Aq OJOY Pj4oM oy} Aq 99uU0 !SspoomM APBOTV,, Wil -UNS dy} dI9YM ‘ING oy} JO AoTTeA oY} 0} Apjuoserd sowiod ureyUNOW pue ‘eas “poom Aq OS pure ‘stuuvast}s IaATIS sdvay ‘sopeys uMOIq-dso1 ul syunI} ayl-seypid Suowe spurm {spoomMpoas oy} FO ysty ay} Stojuo pure urese sdoIp jf usyy, “vas onjq yseaA oy} J9Y}0 dy} UO {pueYy auO dy} UO skoT[eA pue SUIJUNOWI—PIUAOJI[ED JO dS poos v jsvoy 1B ‘PjJoM sfoyM oY} 4OU Ft ‘poof INOK jv SAL] PUL ISULI BY} FO JSat9 dy} O} 199¥ OOO'Y sqUTI]D Ht 4XON,, VINYOWTIVO « NOANVO WHAM NYAM OL TIVUL MHAYO WHI WOW NOANVD HVAMVN AHL 72 THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA 73 TREE MEMORY MORE ACCURATE THAN MAN’S We are told, for instance, that a pro- longed drouth afflicted Israel during the reign of the wicked King Ahab; and, proving at once the truth of the Biblical record and the universality of the weather, the drouth is found strongly marked by an attenuated ring in the larger trees. It has been said that the Sequoia is ‘dying out; but expert testimony proves that it is not only producing bountifully over large areas, but also that the young growths win out in the struggle for exist- ence with the pine and fir around them. Over them, too, it possesses an inesti- mable advantage—it is indestructible by fire or insect plagues and, apparently, has no diseases. Barring accident, it is immortal, and as California has awak- ened at last to her duty in the preserva- tion of these noble trees, it would seem that they are destined to remain forever towering monuments in her list of glories. Northward of Yosemite, among the glaciers and snow-clad peaks of the Sier- ras, the railroad lines enter California through mountain portals. By one you come to Tahoe, the lake of lakes, a huge iridescent mirror of 30 miles diameter, set in a frame of deep forests and snow- topped mountains. Another runs down the Feather River Canyon, that wonder- ful street of the mountains that leads by tumbling waters, lacy, silver cascades, to the warm plains beneath. From both, views are obtained—views on views, constantly changing, increas- ingly beautiful, that have no superiors in the mountain scenery of the world. Or you may drop down through the northern portals of the Siskiyou Range past Mount Shasta’s great white cone and pass through deep woods to the Sacramento River and follow its stream to its con- fluence with San Francisco Bay. MAKING THE PEOPLE'S PLAYGROUNDS AVAILABLE The Secretary of the Interior, Frank- lin K. Lane, is carrying to completion the new policy inaugurated in establishing permanent camps within the national parks, which will afford a high degree of practical comfort and utility to all who come, and at such a minimum cost that thousands can now take advantage of the opportunity offered to spend healthful vacations in this wonderland of nature, which heretofore has been prohibitive to many because of the expense. It is pro- posed to equip all of the large national parks in this way with model camps, so that individuals or parties can live under canvas close to nature, yet safeguarded and assisted in every way by government supervision. Drop from the cars at any place and you will find yourself in fisherman’s or hunter’s country. Rainbow trout swarm in the mountain and hill streams. Striped bass that run to 30 pounds—no better fighting fish in any waters—abound in tie giver deltas. = black (pass) oi both small- and large-mouthed varieties, are fished for in San Francisco Bay. Salmon are best at Monterey, and for tuna—which run up to 300 pounds—you go to Catalina Island. Steelheads afford splendid sport in the river deltas during January. Catfish, perch, carp, and sal- mon trout are found in all streams. It is also. a hunter's paradise. No- where will you find better duck shooting than in the Suisun marshes or the great tule swamps around San Francisco Bay. Grouse, quail, and wood pheasants are found everywhere, even in the suburbs of some towns. Bears, the mountain- lion, lynx, and coyote are easily found, and the country, as before said, is full of deci y- SOnenes YOU Spolt what at may, California, somewhere in her environs, will give it full play. A BEAUTIFUL WELCOME ON EVERY SIDE North, south, east—entered by any of these portals, California is equally fair. There remains the west, and if I be given miy chore, let me come im ftom the sea. The eastern visitor who journeys to the Exposition by water through the canal or by any of the scenic routes will choose wisely and well. If by water, during lazy, somnolent days he will have watched the shore, with its palm-fringed beaches, lace of breaking surf, slip by as in a dream; and when California heaves in Sis Seem TNtoush saa silver waze athe ‘(29 o8ed 4x0} 99S) (JOY Y}IM UOLUNWWOD SUIPYUOD puke dSO[D O}UL SIOAOT JOY MIP 0} saINseds] JsoOIOY Joy potoyyes pey oinjeN UOISUeL ULe}JUNOW 9UO SIY} OJUIL fi Se SWIIOF SSofJUNOD UT SUIpUZ|q puUe SUI}I9W VOUeINpUD JO sodA} pue Surly pue [resy SSUIY} /SYIOI SUIYOO[UO 94} PUL Sod1] PU SoT[I] SUIJDOHeI “Jornb Ay[nfooead “AdIaP JO JOATY ‘poosof [eISAIO OY} SMO o[Pprw oy} YSnoiy} uMOG,, MHALTY GHOMAW 2 STIVA TIAA IVdiIad ‘OD sinjorg Ainqsyjig Aq 0j0y 74 “A1JUNOD 9Y} JO [[efurer WnuIxeW dy} JsOWe SoljUNOS 4SBOD UTOJSOMY}IOU Ss} UL pue “[jezuIer }Sea] OY} SEY HL Josep UtOYy NOS Ss} UI + 4Sapf[O eq} sdey.sod eyseys YA pue AUUYM JT UO pur ‘ArjJUNOD dy} UI JoYy}yeaM 4s9}}04 dy} sassassod yt YUIG UOIeS 94} UI Svore JSoMOT oY} AoE A yyeod Ul pur “eyse[y JO apiswo sojyej}G popUy) oy} Ul UOTeAd]o JSOYSIY OY} sey W AUY MA VN Ul ‘J9yj080} AuvUIJor) pue UPI UPY} vole Josie] & AACY P|NOM jt ‘SexX9T, YM pouro{ UOlUL) 9} UT 9}e}G Jsasie] puodas OU} SI elurOyITeD) NOS’TIM ‘LIN WOU VISVHS “LW SHIGILL “D “H 4q 0Ud os a, 75 ~I Od golden coast exactly matches the poems of joaquin: Miller “ands tales “of Bret Harte. Its wonder and mystery loom in those distant mountains. Any fortune might be hidden behind their barriers. Every point and inlet—San Diego, San Pedro, San Luis Obispo, Arguello, Con- cepcion—recall the padres and bearded Dons) Sit Hrancis Drake imscompamy, with two centuries of Spanish navigators, missed the Golden Gate. But times have changed, and today one can sail on a splendid ocean liner Vion New eYorlk through the Panama Canal to the Golden Gate in 17 happy days. Slipping through the heads one morning, should you come by water, you come suddenly upon a sight that causes you to rub your eyes and look again to make certain that it is not a page from the “Arabian Nights.” CAN THINGS UNRIVALED BE PICTURED IN WORDS? How shall one describe it, this won- derful city that is a fitting setting for the crowning jewel of all the expositions. A walled town of the Orient, its green and golden domes, mosaic towers, sculptures, arches, and old ivory facades loom in shimmering mists of color. The basic colors are blue and gold—the gold of Cal- ifornia’s hills, blue of her sunny skies— and these were chosen wisely, for they belong to the Orient, where violent color is quickly toned by the sun to soft pastel shades. ! The pale greens are those of ice. Those swelling green domes might have been quarried from Sierra glaciers, the gold from California’s mines. The limestone ranges of Monterey lay just such facades along the sea. The Mojave Desert inspired the ambers and those pale golds. Bound into a whole by the spell of color, the Exposition sits, indeed, like a great gem in its setting of street-crowned hills. Whether seen from above or viewed from the sea, the first effect is the same—of beauty, elusive, mysterious, aloof. / Very fittmely, the California Host Building, which rambles in the happy mission fashion over five broad acres, stands on the “Marina,” a beautiful es- planade that runs for a couple of miles THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE along the Golden Gate. Low and wide in the main, it rises in the center to upper stories with bell towers surmounting a chapel front that carries, somehow, a sug- gestion of the desert pueblos. YESTERDAY AND TODAY Its back wall is almost washed by the tides—the same tides that brought Fa- thers Cambon and Palou ashore in the boat of the San Carlos to establish the presidio and mission of St. Francis de Assisi two centuries ago. What a differ-_ ence between this superb building and the block-houses and log chapel within a stockade they erected on this very spot! Yet it is the lineal deseendamimomenne solid structures they erected later. Juni- pero Serra would have delighted in this building. One almost looks to see him, with his friend and faithful lieutenant, Palou, pacing the cloisters that surround a flowering patio. The eight exhibition palaces are com- modiously arranged in a vast quadrangle that is situated between two great ave- nues and bisected down its length by a central avenue which is stopped at each end respectively by the gigantic Hall of Machinery and the Palace of Fine Arts. Looking down this central axis from the south end, the eye beholds ajimcionmonr courts and connecting Venetian gardens, court after court, seen through gigantic arches crowned with heroic groups, and stopped over half a mile away by the lovely Palace of Fine Arts. THE AWE OF PERFECT BEAUTY The vision excludes, at first, all else from the mind but the awe inspired by perfect beauty; and when it is ready to take cognizance of other things, the next great impression is of the surpassing fit- ness, perfect coincidence of the event and the place: If you came by water, the long white wake of the ship down the Pacific to the canal remains fresh in your memory. If you came overland by any of the splendid scenic routes, then, seen through great arches, frequent glimpses of the Golden Gate compel perpetual recognition of the great economic fact behind all this beauty—the opening of the Panama Canal. Photo by Gabriel Moulin A TYPICAL GARDEN IN PIEDMONT, ACROSS THE BAY No garden of Eden could be richer in flowers than are the cities across the bay from San Francisco, and there can be found no greater civic pride than is displayed by the resi- dents. Every home, be it rich or poor, has its burst of bloom, and even the streets in the residential sections are veritable rose gardens. A-BIG TREE, AND TA LONG) WR ENe aN Courtesy of Southern Pacific Railway Co. CALIFORNIA Nowhere else in the world do such massive living things exist as the big trees in the State of California. the oldest. Not only are they the greatest of all living things in bulk, but they are They had begun their existence on earth before Joseph appeared at the Court of Pharaoh and interpreted the dream of the lean kine and the fat. From that time forward they have written their record of the lean vears and of the fat ones of the world’s history. In other ways it is kept, too, in the forefront of your mind. The motifs of sculpture, mural paintings, and decora- tions lead up through historical sequences that begin with the voyage of Leif Eric- son and his Norsemen to the coast of Maine, follows the Spanish conquest and Anglo-Saxon progression westward to the culmination in the heroic groups of the “Eastern and Western Nations’ that crown the lateral arches in the “Court of the Universe.” : The most remarkable phenomenon in commercial history is and has been the slow progression of the economic power westward from its ancient source in the Fast. Through Asia and Europe it slowly passed, each principal nation holding it for its little hour before it crossed the Atlantic to us. From the beginning of 78 time this movement proceeded steadily toward the culmination prophesied in a verse of Whitman’s that is hewn on the face of the western arch beneath the pio- neer group: | FACING WEST FROM CALIFORNIA’S SHORES, INQUIRING, TIRELESS SEEKING WHAT IS YET UNKNOWN, I, A CHILD VERY OLD, OVER WAVES TOWARD THE HOUSE OF MATERNITY, THE LAND OF MIGRATIONS, LOOK AFAR— LOOK OFF THE SHORES OF MY WESTERN SEA, THE CIRCLE ALMOST CIRCLED. se PROPEVE CY ahs That prophecy is no Nin eom= mercial dominion, it is) Wc) 7 mony amests with us, and, thanks to the impetus that is certain to result from the European war, will attain power and importance under us such as the world has never seen before. But, flowing on still west- ¥ Mian y = - 3% Photo by George R. King THE TWINS: TUOLUMNE GROVE, CALIFORNIA It is a st.markable fact that the most accurate record of the world’s weather, during the past 4,000 years, which we have is written by the trees. The patient comparisons by means of delicate measuring instruments, which have been made by forest experts, reveal the fact that the records written in the past quarter of a century by the United States Weather Bureau and by the big trees of California tell exactly the same story. We are therefore permitted by an examination of the rings of the centuries that have gone before to read of the years of abundance and famine in the land. The “oldest inhabitant” may declare that the winters were once colder and the summers once hotter than now; that there was more rainfall in the older days than now; but the big tree’s memory is never at fault. i aS Photo by Pillsbury Picture Co. GRIZZLY GIANT TREE: MARIPOSA GROVE “Tt has been said that the sequoia is dying out; but expert testimony proves that it is not only producing bountifully over large areas, but also that the young growths win out ina struggle for existence with the pine and fir around them” (see text, page 73). 80 ward, Occidental civilization has inun- dated the Orient, and now comes the backwash—first, in the form of national exhibits from Japan and China that ex- ceed in value those of any other princi- pal power; second, in a fast-growing commerce, the visible signs of which— the great liners of the Toyo Kisen Kai- sha and big, black freighters—are to be seen heaving in and out of sight from this court at any hour of the day. Without the canal the natural expan- sion of trade with the Orient would have done great things both for California and the entire Pacific coast; but its opening has caused an acceleration that is with- out parallel in history. In three months the trade of San Francisco with Europe increased 100 per cent; with New York and Atlantic ports it rose 260 per cent; and whereas only three main lines of steamships used the port previously to the opening, 16 main lines have now estab- lished regular sailings; and though every month brings still more lines, their ac- commodations are insufficient for the cargoes offered. Single vessels have left as much as 2,000 tons on the wharves. WORLDS NOBLEST MARINE VIEW It would almost seem that when Na- ture lifted a spadeful out of the Coast range and inundated a thousand square miles of valley to form the largest har- bor in the world she had in view the present situation. Seen from any of San Francisco’s principal hills, the harbor presents one of the world’s noblest ma- rine views. Directly opposite, Berkeley, Oakland, Alameda, and Piedmont, the bay cities, doze in the heat haze within a cradle of tawny hills. Alcatraz Island and Yerba Buena loom in the foreground through a drift of mist. All along the water front and far up the bay, tugs and fat-bodied ferry - boats, liners from the Orient, tramp steamers in from the canal, blunt- nosed scows and the stern-wheel river boats, lay a lace of white across the blue. From the wharves that thrust stubby fingers into the stream uprises a forest of masts. A glass would show a second forest in the still waters of the Oakland harbor. The whirr and rattle of winches, stevedores’ whistles, hysteria of a pile- driver, clangor of bells and sirens punc- tuate the dull roar of the world traffic in course below. A busy as well as a lively scene, it is nevertheless merely a faint indication of that which the future holds in store. On the Oakland side half a dozen sea-walls already thrust long stone fingers miles into the bay, and between them powerful suction dredges are filling in the flats. Ten miles of water front are in course of preparation for docks and wharves to care for the increased trade, and there is no limit. If necessary, a hundred miles of water front could be developed around the bay, with close connections between ship and fail; and some day it will be needed. When the war is over and the stream of European immigration is diverted from the Atlantic seaboard through the canal into the wide, empty spaces of the Pa- cific coast; when these begin to yield corn, and olives, and oil, and wine in- stead of chaparral; when a thousand new towns and cities shall multiply the de- mand for manufactures; when mills, and mines, and factories, and new indus- tries of a dozen sorts spring up all over the land, and more and more lines of steamships radiate from San Francisco all over the western world; then, wide as are its waters, this beautiful harbor will be black with shipping as a northern lake on the return in spring of the water- fowl. A WORLD EMPIRE A hundred ships will lie at anchor where one now dots the shining expanse. In these pleasant climes, where snow is a phenomenon and there is no winter cold to chill man’s energies and consume his summer earnings, where the earth yields more abundantly and variously of her fruits and grains, with the backwash from the Orient lifting trade to its high- est levels, will undoubtedly arise one of the world’s greatest commercial empires. It is wonderful as it stands today— the more wonderful when one contem- plates the complete ruin which over- whelmed San Francisco less than ten years ago. Sitting on a fire-swept hill- top, in the midst of 27 square miles of ruins, nine years ago, I penned the fol- lowing dispatch for a New York peri- odical : SI Photo by Pillsbury Picture Co. THK ROAD WINDS AMONG THE GIANT REDWOODS “Over the pine and the fir the sequoia pos- sesses an inestimable advantage. It is inde- structible by fire or insect plagues and, appar- ently, has no diseases. It would seem that they are destined to remain forever towering monuments in California’s list of glories” (see text, page 73). Photo by John Oliver La Gorce OVERHANGING ROCK: YOSEMITE VALLEY A remarkable rock reaching out over the side of Glacier Point, from which one can look down upon the floor of the valley, nearly a mile and a half below. Note the guides grouped on the edge. 82 Photo by Lucie King Harris YOSEMITE FALLS The view of the great cataract from the Yosemite Falls Camp at its foot is one of Surpassing beauty and never-to-be-forgotten delight. In its three flights—the first being a vertical leap of 1,400 feet, the second 600 feet, and the third 400 feet—Yosemite drops nearly half a mile, and at the point of its upper discharge is but 35 feet in width. Compared with Niagara’s drop of but 170 feet, its lofty leap can be better appreciated. oe) On SES : Photo by Hae eiee Chalmers Adams VERNAL FALLS: YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA “No temple made with hands can compare with the Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life. Some lean back in majestic repose; others absolutely sheer, or equally so, for thousands of feet, advance beyond their companions in thoughtful attitudes” (see text, page 67). THE WONDERLAND OF CALIFORNIA 85 “Of its kind it is undoubtedly the most stupendous catastrophe in all history, and when that is said not the half is told. Now that the smoke pall 1s lifting, one looks over a ruin so vast and complete that the mind, refusing to grasp it for lack of contrast, registers an impression of the commonplace. When, after hours of wandering amid calcined brick piles one returns to Oakland across the bay, its flowers and gardens appear foreign and strange San Francisco is a huge lime- kiln; its streets elevated causeways that run through charred and blackened cel- lars.” Compare that complete ruin with what one sees from the same viewpoint today: meeneecr, rater, nobler city that lays her parks and squares, temples, skyscrapers, residences, a flexible mantle of brick and stone, across a dozen hills; add the Ex- position, a work that cost over 50 million dollars, and you have a monument to the pluck and perseverance of the manhood of San Francisco such as will never be surpassed. MANY SPIRITS BECOME ONE It has been said of San Francisco that iPisnora city, but a.spirit. It might De added that this is the spirit of Califor- nia, the indomitable spirit of ’49 plus the best qualities of a dozen races added since—Spanish warmth of love and its ease, a Latin penchant for music and the arts, the imperturbability of the Orient, Scandinavian faithfulness, and so on— all these she has, a wonderful combina- tion fused in a flame that cannot be quenched by adversity. So varied is she in her likings, pleas- ures, and occupations that it is impossi- ble to reduce even her essences to the limits of these paragraphs. Situated on a peninsula with towering hills, washed on three sides by the sea, her wants sup- plied by the most fruitful country on earth, it would be a matter of wonder if she were not something of a Hedonist. Good-humored, kind, hospitable to the echo, your San Franciscan rather prefers to get all he can out of life now and take his chance with the hereafter. Some- thing of a gourmand, he is quite univer- sal in his tastes. The cooks of all lands Cater vo) nis meeds) and: cater better than they ever did at home. In San Francisco you can eat’a better French, Mexican; or italian dimmer, served at lower prices, with better service, than in Paris, Mex- ico’ City, or ome. The Latin blood, of which a generous strain now runs in its veins, calls insist- ently for music, and San Francisco was for a long time the only city in America where grand opera could run all the year round. The climate makes against read- ing. It takes a long winter to produce students othe wh the toam) H ranciscan leaves books largely to his wife and daughter, he is nevertheless thoroughly Grecian in his love of beauty and sub- scribes liberally to the arts. THE CALIFORNIANS PHILOSOPHY One might sum his liberal philosophy: to be a staunch friend, a good neighbor; to live well and broadly; to love beauty in all its forms. Nothing ascetic about it; nothing highfaluting, but broad and kindly, thoroughly Californian. On his business side, the San. Fran- ciscan is equally broad. ‘Though he no longer goes to business in a frock coat and stove-pipe hat, as in Bret Harte’s day, he is still very much of an adven- turer, ready to take a chance, whether it be salvage on a wreck, the financing of a South American revolution, or a “grub- stake” for a prospector on a still hunt for a lost mine, and withal most sound in his business principles. It is in his blood; for he was born within sound of the Pacific, whose surf thunders of ro- tnance; he breathes the breath of the “trades” that sweep in from the isles of the southern. seas. And examine his lin- eage! This old gentleman you meet on the street may be a bit tottering about the knees, but the frank, strong soul of him looks out of eyes that are clear, free, and fearless as those of ‘““Tennessee” and his “bearded pards.” The latter genus, by the way, is not quite extinct. Sometimes in out-of-the- way places you will meet a specimen, beard white over his rough shirt, but hale and hearty ; eyes bits of blue agate—free, fearless, innocent as of yore. If not re- cently converted to “oil,” his talk still 86 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ’ uns in prospects, ‘and calls up, as he runs along, vivid pictures of sun-struck canyons and sudden odors of sage and chaparral. AH SING AND HIS DAUGHTER He still looks with huge disfavor upon Ah Sing, flapping in loose cloth shoes along Chinatown’s narrow alleys. In his time he gave poor Ah the devil’s own time of it, hunting him with the same venom his grandson displays to the Jap. Time, however, brings its surceases. The best of servants, most faithful of friends, a true gentleman in his quiet reservations, the Chinaman has won a permanent, place “in (California cmelitics Forty thousand of him— save for the “tong wars,’ during which he practices race suicide with a hatchet—live at peace in San Francisco ; also he has lived down the reputation for “tricks that are vain” foisted upon him by Bret Harte. His word passes everywhere for his bond. Fis daughter, little Miss Ah, is a living proof of his complete patriation. That which it has done for little Miss San Francisco, developing her into the love- liest creature in all the world, the climate has also done for little Miss Ah. She is twice as tall and ten times as pretty as her sallow, short-footed slave mother. Slim and delicately colored by nature— helped out a bit, perhaps, by a rabbit’s foot—she is to be seen any day in bevies of three or more, happy and free, full of gigeles and chatter, lending the color of her blue, cerise, or mauve pantaloons to the duller costumes on Market Street. Yet so much has she become a part of San Francisco’s hfe that none but a ten- derfoot stares at her. And that which climate has done for Whiss: Ah it is, also, doing “for, lieher things, promoting greater loveliness in music, painting, sculpture, letters, all the arts. It is trite, now, to draw the parallel between California and ancient Greece, yet the causes which made the latter are already at work to develop in the former a like sensitiveness to the beautiful. The cold northlands were always the mother of great deeds. First in conquest, later in the inventions that make for material well-being, they led the world. But while their children were still chanting their boisterous sagas to the clashing of shields, the cadences of real song, rhythms of true poetry, were rising and falling in the southlands in harmony with the surge and recession of Mediterranean waves. That climate is the mother of art, then, there can be no doubt. Ina pleasant land, where neither tweaking cold nor ener- vating heat chill or enervate the mind, it will inevitably make its highest flights, and those ideal conditions which made the Mediterranean the cradle of the arts are duplicated in California. From the virile sowing of pioneer seed which, as under the breath of a mighty wind, was brought in from the four quarters of the world by the “gold rush” of ’40, has al- ready issued a crop of great writers and poets. A LONG LIST OF AUTHORS First, Joaquin Miller, Ina Coolbrith, Bret Harte, Charles Warren Stoddard, Edwin Markham, each celebrating in his or her own inimitable way the spread of desert or mountain, misty canyons, ca- thedral redwoods, oak-studded meads and riven valleys, bound in between the snow- capped Sierras and vast blue spread of the sea. After them came a second crop— Frank Norris and Jack London, Mary Austin, George Sterling, John Fleming Wilson, James Hopper, Gertrude Ather- ton—and upon their heels now comes treading a greater host—poets, painters, writers, actors, playwrights, good crafts- men—all who would have stood out as notable figures in the less crowded fields of 20 years ago. And with such a be- ginning, what can be the end—but the creation of a second Greece? The Exposition, with its warm color, ereat spaces, and huge masses rising from the ruins of a burned city, is at once a product and manifestation of this later Grecian spirit. Where else could its colorful beauty have been so perfectly at home, after granting the spirit to pro- duce it? It is true that it has been called into existence only to serve the need of an hour; but that merely increases the wonder of it! Photo by H. C. Tibbitts “MAID OF THE MIST’: NEVADA FALL, YOSEMITE VALLEY “The Sierra Nevada range of mountains, from Mt. Whitney to Mt. Shasta, is replete with scenery such as people of all countries travel thousands of miles to visit. 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