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THE LIBRARY

OF

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OF CALIFORNIA

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W«^^ FORBES HONEY- HIATER.

1 MY'ZOMELAANKABFMvG, Scl.)

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

IN THE

EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO

A MRRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND EXPLORATION

From 1878 to 1883

BY

HENRY O. FORBES, F.R.G.S.

MEMBER OF THE SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY; FELLOW OP THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON

MEMBER OP THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND

MEMBER OP THE BRITISH ORNITHOLOGIST'S UNION

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM THE AUTHOR'S SKETCHES
AND DESCRIPTIONS BY MR. JOHN B. GIBBS

NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE

1S85

TO

THE MEMOEY

OF
MY FRIEND AND CLASS-FELLOW AT THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH,

2l2aiUiam Elexantier jFoxht^,

B.A., F.L.S., F.G.S., &c.,
FELLOW OF ST. JOHX'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE;
PROSECTOR TO THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON;

WHO DIED IX AFRICA IN JANUARY, 1883,

WHILE LEADING A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION ALONG THE RIVER NIGER;

AND WHO, ALREADY EMINENT FOR ENDURING WORK
ACCOMPLISHED IN ZOOLOGICAL SCIENCE,

WAS IN FUTURE PROMISE PRE-EMINENT OVER ALL OF HIS TIME,

PEEFACE.

Mr. a. E. Wallace's ' Malay Archipelago ' is so accurate and
exhaustive an account of the Eastern Isles, that there have
been left but few gleanings for those who have followed him
to gather. Most of the islands visited by me were also visited
by him ; but my route has in each island been altogether
diiferent from his. In as far as it refers to islands visited by
both of us, I should desire this volume, which is a mere
transcript of what I have thought the more interesting of
the field notes made during my wanderings, to be considered
in the light of an addendum to — unfortunately without any
of the literary elegance and finish of — that model book of
travel.

No detailed account of the Timor-laut Islands has appeared
before the present ; and very little has been published on the
inhabitants of the interior of Timor.* In the chapters devoted
to these lands I have contributed some ethnological notes which
I trust may be found new and of interest.

Before I allow this volume to leave my hands, I have the
pleasant task of acknowledging my indebtedness to many
friends. Besides those whose kindness I have referred to in
the body of this work, I have in the first instance to beg their
Excellencies Van Lansberge and 'Sjacob, the two Governors-
General of Netherlands India during my stay in the Archi-
pelago, to accept my grateful acknowledgments for their many

* ' As PossessOes Portugezas na Oceania, por Affouso do Castro, membro da
Sociedadc de Sciencias e Artes dc Batavia ; Deputado da na9ao, &c., ex-
Governador de Timor: Lisboa, 1867,' contaiua an interesting account of some
of the customs of the people of E. Timor.

vi PREFACE.

generous concessions and the aid granted to me as a scientific
traveller. My thanks are due also to all the civil officials —
too numerous to name here — whose districts I resided in or
passed through. They upheld the well-deserved fame that the
Dutch-Indian Ambtenars have earned for their hospitality.
The mention of each of their districts is indelibly associated
in my remembrance with their names and their numerous acts
of kindness. I may be permitted to record the names of those
to whom I am under special obligation: Governor Laging
Tobias, then Eesident of Palembang ; Assistant-Resident
Schuylinburch, of Muara-dua ; Controllers De Heer and Bey-
rinck, of the Lampong Residency ; and Controllers Van der
Volk, Hisgen, and Kamp, of the Palembang Eesidency.

To Dr. Treub and Dr. Burck, of the Botanical Gardens in
Buitenzorg, I am peculiarly indebted for more than ordinary
acts of courtesy and friendship ; as well as to Dr. Bernelot
Moens, Director of the Cinchona Plantations. To His I^x-
cellency Senhor Bento da Franca Pinto d' Oliveira, the
Governor of Portuguese Timor, to his whole family, and to his
son Seuhor Bento da Fraufa Salema, Government Secretary,
my wife and myself lie under the deepest indebtedness, not
alone for the aid and protection I was so generously provided
with to enable me to visit the interior of that interesting island,
but for the most affectionate kindness manifested to us both
throughout our stay in Timor.

To Mr. H. D. Jamieson, j\Ir. J. Craig and ^Ir. C. Haliburton,
who did for us many acts of personal kindness and friendship
while in Java, I tender my sincerest tlianks.

I have to express my very hearty obligations to the British
Association's Committee for the exploration of Timor-laut,
especially to Dr. P. Tj. Sclater; to Mr. Carruthers and the
Botanists of the British Museum for their aid in arranging
Timor Herbarium, and for their describing it in time to
appear as one of the appendices of this volume ; to Messrs.
S. 0. liidley and J. Quelch, of the Zoological Department ;

PREFACE.

and to Mr. E. Bowdler Sharpe for his kind revision of the proof
sheets of the ornithological lists, as well as for his willing aid
in the determination of the birds I obtained.

It was 3Ir. H. W. Bates, the Author of the ' Naturalist on
the Amazons,' who in my boyhood first inspired me with a desire
to visit the tropics ; and he, in later years, has ever with ready
cheerfulness aided my inexperience by sound and friendly
advice.

Lastly but chiefly, I must acknowledge a heavy debt of
gratitude to my friend Alexander Comyns, LL.B., of the
Middle Temple, for more acts of kindness, as my constant
correspondent and counsellor during my absence, than can be
ever sufficiently acknowledged or repaid.

I cannot close without adding one word of recognition of
the companion of my travels, whose constant encouragement
and valued aid lighten all my labours.

Henry 0. Fokbes.

RuBisLAW Dex, Abeedeen,
January 30, 1885.

CONTENTS.

PAET I.
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

CHAPTER I.

IN BATAVIA AND BUITENZORG.

FAQR

Arrival in Batavia — First impressions — Buitenzorg and its Botanical

Gardens.. .. .. .. .. .. .. ., .. 3

CHAPTER 11.

SOJOURN IX THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

Start for the Cocos-Keeling Islands — In the Straits of Sunda — An unex-
pected pilot — Arrival — History of the colony there — Terrible cyclones
— Home life of the colonists now — The reef and its builders — Fishes
in the lagoon — Crabs and their operations — Plant life — Insect life —
Mammals — Birds .. .. .. •.. .. .. .. 11

CHAPTER III.

SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS (cotltinued).

Coral reef formation — Observations on the elevation or subsidence of the

Keeling Atoll 35

Appendix TO Part I. ., .. .. .. .. .. .. 42

PART II.
IN JAVA.

CHAPTER I.

SOJOURN AT GENTENG IN BANTAM.

On the road— The Sundanese language— Every man a naturalist — Bird-
life at Genteng — Weaver-birds' nests — A native rural bazaar — Forest
devastation — Geological structure of the district — A wonderful case
of mimicry in a spider. .. .. .. .. .. .. •• 51

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II.

SOJOURN AT KOSALA IX BAXTAM,

PAGE

Leave Genteng — Native blacksmiths at Sadjira — Hot springs of Tjipanas
Birds and plants at Tjipanas — Invitation to Kosala — The Kosala
estate — 'i"he curious disease Lata — 'J'he "Wau-wau — Birds — Bees —
White ants — Great trees — Lon<: drought and its consequences — The
Hemileia vastatrix, a fungoid blight and the buffalo diseass — Flora
and fauna of Kosala Mountains — Singular living ants' nests and their
development — Orchids at Kosala and some curious devices for secur-
ing self-fertilisation — Ancient remains in the forest — The Karangs
and their curious rites — The Badui — Religion and superstitions of the
people of Bantam — Leave Kusala .. .. .. .. .. 66

CHAPTER II L

SOJOURN AT PEXGELEXGAX, IN THE PREANGER REGENCIES.

Leave Buitenzorg for the Pi-eanger I'egencies — Journey to Bandong ia a
post-cart — Bandong — Thence to Pengelengan — Visit to the famous
Cinchona Gardens of the Government — Plant-life in the surrounding
mountains — The Upas-tree — Crater flora — Land slips and the
power of rain — Interesting birds — The Badger-headed Mj'daus — The
Banteng, or wild cattle — Wild dogs — Leave Pengelengan for Batavia 105

Appendix TO Part II. ., ,. ,. .. .. .. .. 118

PAET III.
IN SUMATRA.

CHAPTER I.

SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS.

Leave Batavia for Telok-betong — Lampong Bay — Telok-betong — Leave
for Gedong- tetahan — Forest scenery by the way — Escape from a
tiger — Flowers in the forest — Gedonsc-tetahan — Birds and insects
there — Move to Kotta-djawa — The village — Ruthless destruction of
the forest — Trees — Entomological treasures — Move to Gunung Trang
— The pepper trade — Birds there — Interesting butterflies .. ., 125

CHAPTER IL

SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS (continued).

Move towards the Tengamus Mountain — Butterflies found on the journey
thither — Tiohmomon — The Balai, a characteristic institution — De-
scent of the Lamponge's — Their language — Divisions of the province

CONTENTS.

— Tiiles and dignities— Ornaments — festivities and amusemeuts —
Marriage customs — Move to Penanggungan — -Petroleum and paraffin
matches — Penanggungan — Great trees — Interesting plants and
animals — The Siamang — Move to Terratas — Ascent of tlie Ten-
gamus Mountain — Its flora and fauna — Return to Penanggungan and
toBatavia 139

CHAPTER III.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY.

From Batavia to Anjer — Return to Telok-Betong — Proceed to Beneawang
— Leave this for the Blalau region — Camp at Sanghar— Camp in the
forest — Phosphorescent display — Camp again in forest — Reach Burai-
padang — Pass on to Batu-brah — Desciiption of the village — Move on
to Kenali — Description of tlie village — Proceed to Hoodjoong — De-
scription of the village — Its tobacco industry — Its rice-fields — Plant-
ing and reaping — Superstitions — Goitre — Fauna and flora of the
Besagi volcano— Birds and insects of the neighbourhood .. ., IGl

CHAPTER IV.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued).

Leave Hoodjong — Denudation — Great arums — Sukau — Chiefs of the
Ranau region — Tandjon-djati on the Ranau Lake— The high tempera-
ture of the water — Birds, fishes, interesting insects — Banding Agong
— To Muara Dua — Through Kisam — Geological notes — Kisam
villages — Coat of arms — Writing, dress, religion of Kisam people .. 174

CHAPTER V.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued).

From Ganung Megang — Luntiir — A surprise — River Ogan — Curious
hills — Ornamental carving — A village lair — A cock-figlit — Into the
Inirn Valley — Muara Inim — Lahat — Passumah Lands — Ceremonial
formulas — 'i"he people — Marriage ceremonies — Illegitimate births —
Religion — Deatli superstitions and rites — Sculptured stones — Inter-
esting visit from Bencoolen men 183

CHAPTER VI.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued).

Passumah Lands (contd.) — The Volcano of the Dempo — Its flora and
fauna — The crater — Spectre of the Brocken — The view from the
summit — Leave for the Kaba Volcano — Gujiung ^leraksa — River
journey on a raft — Lami>ar — Find again the spider Urnithoscatoidts
decipiens — Batupanijeii — A marriage scene — Games of the boys —
Houses — Tebbing-Tinggi —Tandjou'^-ning— Great trees — My party
attacked by a tiger — Its wiliness — Its capture — Graveyard .. .. 20ti

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBAKG KESIDEXCY {continued).

PAGB

Leave Tandjong-Nii)g — Padang Ulak-Tandjong — Kejiala Tjurup — Hot
springs of the Kaba — Earthquake — Botanical features— Curious
plants — Fertilisation of Melastoraa — A jjilgrimage — The crater of
the Kaba — The nomadic Kubus — Kupit river scenery — Gold-
fiatherers — Muara-rupit — The Durian — Surulangua — Thieves and
thieves' calendars— Mala}' dignity — Leave for Muara Mengkulem .. 225

CHAPTER VIII.

SOJOURN IX THE PAI,EMBANG RESIDENCY (continued).

Muara Mengkulem — Refused entrance into the Djambi Sultanate — Napal
Litjin — Peak of Karang-nata — Geological formation — Botanical
features — Birds — Hemipteron milked by ants — Rakit life — ^Bigin-
telok — Water roads — An escape from drowning — Pau — ^Kiver squall
— Approach to Palembang — -River life and its massive joy — The
town of Palembang — Return to Batavia .. .. .. .. 250

Appendix TO Part III. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 261

PAET IV.
IN THE MOLUCCAS AND IN TIMOB-LAUT.

CHAPTER I.

FROM JAVA TO AMBOIKA.

Sojourn in Buitenzorg, Java — Leave for Amboina accompanied by my
■wife — Friends on board — Call at Samarang and Sourabaya in Java —
Macassar in Celebes — Bima in Sumbawa — Larautuka in Fiores —
Cupang and Dilly in Timor — Banda, the island of nutmeg gardens .. 283

CHAFTER IL

AMBOINA.

Amboina — Reception by Mr. Resident Riedel — Delay — Visit interior of
Amboina — Paso — Move to Wai — The people there — The flora and
fauna — Return to Amboina .. .. .. .. .. .. 288

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER HI.

FROM AMBOINA TO TIMOR-LAUT.

PAGE

Leave for Timor-laut — Saparua — Curious village and atoll of Gessir —
New Guinea — Aru — Ke — Timor-laut — First impressions — New birds
and butterflies — State of siege — Negotiate for a house — Language —
Our barter goods .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 298

CHAPTER IV.

SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT.

The natives — Hair and coitTures — Vanity — -Stature and living characte-
ristics — Cranial characters — Clothing — Tjikalele dance — Arms —
Marriage — Artistic skill — Individual and moral character — Treat-
ment of their children — Games — Fine figures — Graves — Good butter-
fly resorts .. .. .. ,. .. .. .. .. 307

CHAPTER V.

SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT (continued).

Religion and sujjerstitions — Visit to Waitidal — Barter for a skull — Send
my hunters to the northern islands of the grou^) — -Climate of Timor-
laut — A mauvais quart d'heure — Designation of the group — Geo-
graphical and geological features .. .. ,. ,. .. 325

CHAPTER VL

SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT (continued).

Natural History — Flora — Disaster to Herbarium — Faima — Mimicking
birds — Insects — Fever and failure of supplies — Anxious waiting for
steamer — Arrival of SS. Amboina — Leave Timor-laut for Amboiua 334

Appendix TO Part IV. .. ,. .. .. .. .. ,. 340

PART V.
IN THE ISLAND OF BUBU.

CHAPTER I.

from KAJELI to THE LAKE.

From Amboina to Burn — Kajeli — Trade of Knjeli — Birds — River Apu —
Wai Bliii village — Village of Wai Gelan — The Matakau — Forced
encampments — Wai Klaba — A Pomalied mountain — Wasilale —
Hospitable reception — Houses — Musical i^erformance — Pomali signs
— Arrive at Laha .. .. .. .. .. .. ■»% 391

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II.

AT LAKE WOKOLO.

PAGE

The Lake — The people therp— Garments— -Cultivation— Arms and
accoutrements — Marriage — Death rites — Superstitions about the lake
— Explanation of its position and of the absence of fish in it— New
birris— Great disappointment— Eetuni to Kajeli— Thence to Amboina
— Compelled to leave the Moluccas — A kind farewell — Leave for
Timor 401

Appendix to Part V. .. .. .. •• •• •• •• 409

PAET YI.
IN TIMOR.

CHAPTER I.

SOJOURN AT FATUNABA,

Arrival at Dill}* — Dreadf id effects of fever — Search for a site for a house
— The town of Dilly an ethnographical studio — Fatunaba — Our
residence — The enchanting view thence — Interesting birds and plants
— Difficulty with servants — Preparations for departure into the in-
terior— Dialects .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 41!

CHAPTER II.

ON THE EGAD TO BlBigUgU,

Start for the interior — Vegetation on the way — Roads — Camp on Erlura
— Mt. Tehula — Kelehoko and its flora — Pass a night under the eaves
of a native dwelling — Huts in trees — Bed of the River Komai — Pass
a night on Ligidoik mountain — Character of country — Valley of the
Waimatang Kaimauk — Singular scene — Unburied relatives — Burial
rites — Grave-sticks — Rites attending a king's death — Swangies —
Lose our way — Flora on Turskain mountain — Rajah of Turskain's —
Botanical excursions — The rites of the sacred Lull and the choosing
of warriors — The Kajah .. ,. .. .. .. ,. 427

CHAPTER IIL

IN THE KINGDOM OF BIBI^UgU.

Leave for Bibi9U9U— Bridles — A trio of Braves — War and its attendant
ceremonies — Rahomali — Luli ground — Bibicucu — Harvest fields —
Cultivation — Take the law into my own hands — Connubial rela-
tions— Waterfall — Birds — Herbarium — Discjuieting news — Mount
Kabftlak: — Move forward to Saluki — Native market — Description of

CONTENTS.

XV

PAGE

natives seen there — Ornaments — Dyes — An enraged Timorese —
Red-haired race — Timorese a mixed race — Up the Makulala
River — Gold — Ceremonies of gold-gathering — Arrive at the Rajah
ofSeluki's 449

CHAPTER lY.

SOJOURN IK KAILAKUK AND SAIIORO.

I proceed to Fatviboi — River Motaai — Crystalline rocks — A weird village
— Rare additions to my herbarium — Butterflies — Move on to the
Rajah of Samoro's — Vegetation by the way — Geological notes —
Penalties of theft — Samoro — Visit Sobale Peak — Botanising under
difficulties — Large Herbarium — Return to Samoro and leave for
Manuleo .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 468

CHAPTER V.

RETURN TO EUROPE,

Bad news from Dilly — Start thither — Camp in the open — Bees — Laclo
river — Rajah's ot'Laicor — The Queen of Laclo — A hot ride — Geologi-
cal note — Matu — Metinaru — Salt marshes— A long night-ride —

Return to Diliy Palace — Extract from A 's journal — Return to

Fatunaba — Fevers — Decide to return to Europe — Surprised by the
arrival of steamer — Regretful departure from Fatunaba — Revisit
Banda and Amboina — Menado — A lucky accident — Batavia —
Krakatoa — Home .. .. .. .. ,. ,. ,, 478

Appendix TO Part VL .. .. .. .. .. .. ., 489

Index .. .. .. .. ., .. .. .. .. 525

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Mrs. Forbes' Honey-eater (with permission, from Gould's ' Birds

OF New Guinea') ......

Ficus religiosa, in the Botanical Gardens, Buitenzorg
Two forms of the Xest of the Weaver-Bird
Abandoned XesttFoundation ....

A Bird's-excreta-mimicking Spider

Nest of the Zethus Cyanopterus

Transverse section of the stem of Myrmecodia tuberosa

Young plant of Myrmecodia tuberosa

Young Myrmecodia and section of a somewhat older one

Phajus Blumei, Figs. 1 to 8

Spathoglottis plicata, Figs. 9 to 15 .

Arundina speciosa. Figs. 10 to 22

Eria sp., near to E. javensis, Figs. 23, 21

Chrysoglossum sp.. Figs. 25 to 26a

Goodyera procera, Figs. 27, 28 .

Egg-shaped Stone from the Karang's Grove

Earthenware Pots from „ „

Our Night-crossing of the Piver Tjitarum

Head of Kerivoula javana ....

Village of Kotta-djawa .....

Lampong Characters : an Ili,ustrated Page from a Nati

EOMANCE .......

Head of Buceros and section ....

Village of Kenali ......

View near the Village of IIoodjoong, looking towj

P.ESAGI .......

Coat of Arms in the Village of Padjar-P-ulan .
Tata Puisur-talam . . . . . ' .

'J'ata Simbar .......

Looking down the Ogan Valley from the Piang Peak
Tata ]{amo-ramo ......

Semindo Carving— Otar Gamoolung — on a House

DONAN .......

2

facing

Frontispiece

facing 10

57

58

64

73

79

. 80

. 81

8G, 87, 88

89, 90

91, 92, 93

. 93

94,95

. 96

. 98

99, 100

facing 106

. 118

131

facing

VE-WRITTEN

facing
facing

UDS iloUNT

facing

facing
Pengan-

142
155
168

170
180
180
186
180
187

187

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Passumah Bracelets of Silver, showisg the Orxamextation

DERIVED from THE YOUNG SHOOTS OF THE BaMBOO

Monolith at Tangerwangi, Passumah Lands ....

„ disinterred by the Author at Tangerwangi
Side-view of the Head of one of the Figures ....

New Species of Erugmansia, of the Family of the Pafflesiace^

facing
House in the Village of Batu-pantjeh ... ,,

My Collector killed dy a 'J'iger .... „

Tiger-trap ......... „

My Hut at the Hot Springs, foot of the Kaba Volcano „

Flower (diagrammatic) of Melastoma (with the kind permission
of the Proprietors of Nature) ......

Kubu man and woman, sketched in the Village of Kotta Hadja

„ „ „ „ surulangun

Flower of Curcuma zerumbet, showing its mode of fertilisation
Vaccinium Forbesii ....

SoLOR Ornamentation
Kutmeg-gatherer's Collecting-rod
Coiffures of the Natives of Timor-laut
Instrument for crimping the Hair
Ornamented Belt-buckle .
Earring ......

Carved Comb, ornamented with inlaid Bone
Ornamented Chalk-holder
House in Timor-laut

„ „ WITH Poof removed to

Suspensory Contrivance made of Palm-leaf
Grave of a Native Chief .
Carved Suspensory Contrivances
duadilah ......

Machik's Ground-thrush (Gcocid.ui machiki, Forbes) . facing

NoRM^ frontalis et lateralis of the Male Brachycephalic

Skull, No. 4 (with the permission of the Council of the

Anthropological Institute) ......

NoRM^ frontalis et lateralis of the Female Polichoc ephalic
Skull, No. 1 (with the permission of the Council of the
Anthropological Institute) ......

Upper Surface of Bill of Heteranax mundus (with the permission
of the Council of th3 Zoological Society) ....

Upper Surface of Bill of Piezorhynchus castus (with the per-
mission of the Council of the Zoological Society)
dielis laratensis (with the permission of the council of the
Zoological Society) ........

Matakau ...........

The Hut-Cluster, Wasilale, on the slope of the GununOt Dupa

SHOW THE Interior

195
2C0
201
202

206
218
223
224
225

229
234
245
247
278
285
287
308
309
312
313
316
317
318
31 &
320
323
324
327
337

344

345

359

359

382
395

facing 398

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Native of Wakolo Village, Lake Wakoi.o

View of the Lake of Wakolo

Signalling Pipe ......

Tree-huts with Dead Bodies suspended below
The Stronghold of the Dato of Sauo .
Grave-stick in the Homestead of Sauo
Looking towards Cape Luca, from BiBiguq-u
House-cluster in the Kingdom of Bibk^u^u .
View in the Serarata Valley, BiBigu(;u
Ornamented Comb .....

Ornamentation on small Bamboo
Natives of Bibicu^u, Figs. 1 to 4
Kero .......

PAGE

facing

■i02

»

405
420
434

facing

434

437

facing

452

»>

454
459
462
463

. 465

,466

472

LIST OF MAPS.

PAGE

Map of Eastern Archipei.ago, to show Author's Route facln^j 1
Map of Keeling Islands ...... „ 35

Map of South Sumatra . . . . . . . „ 125

Map of Tenimder Islands or Timor-laut . . . . „ 298

Sketch Map of Geographical Relations of the Tenimber Group
(with the kind permission of the Council of the Anthro-
pological Institute) ........ 3G8

Krakatau before and after the Eruption of August 1883 (from
the ' Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society,' with
KIND permission") . . ....... 487

H O FORBES' NATURAIJST'S WARPERINGS IN TY\Y. EASIERN ARCTIIPELAGO

PAET I.

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

IN THE

EASTEKN AKCHIPELAGO.

CHAPTEK I.

IN BATAVIA AND BUITENZORG.

Arrival in Batavia— First impressions — Buitenzorg and its Botanical
Gardens.

On the 8tli October, 1878, I embarked at Southampton on
board the Royal Dutch ]\[ail steamer Celebes, for J3atavia,
on a long-dreamt of visit to the tropical regions of the globe.
There is little of interest or novelty to record nowadays of a
voyage to the East. The most stay-at-home is familiar witli
this ocean highway.

The home-come traveller, however, will be pleased to be
reminded of that pleasant picture nestling between the
Burlings and the Arabida hills — the stupendous and useless
convent of Mafra, the sharp turrets and bristling peaks of
Cintra, and the flasliing towers and white buildings of Lisbon,
rising from the banks of the river. Notwithstanding all I
had read of Wallace and of Bates, I was going out full of
extravagant ideas of tropical blossoms; and had little idea,
as I rounded the cape of Gibraltar, leaving to the north of
me purple hills of heather, scarlet fields of poppies, and rich
parterres starred with cistus and orchids, with anemones
and geraniums, and sweet with aromatic shrubs and herbs,
that I would encounter nothing half so rich or bright amid
all the profusion of the " summer of the world."

It will please him to have recalled the Straits of IMessina,

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

bathed in sunlight, its little villages with their olive groves
and vineyards slumbering at the mouth of chasm-like gorges,
winding away up amongst the mountains which ruggedly
overshadow them.

In crossing the IMediterranean, we gave a lift to tired wag-
tails and swallows, to a goat-sucker and a fly-catcher, and
carried them into Port Said. The squalor of that town, the
barrenness of the canal shores and the arid bareness of Aden
were a splendid offset to the verdure just ahead of us. In the
Indian Ocean our friendly yard-arms gave a rest to several
bee-eaters [Merops jyhilipjnnus), to a chat and to little flocks of
swallows before we sighted the Maldive and Laccadive coral
Archipelagoes. Far ahead on the horizon their islets looked
like a group of bouquets set in marble-rimmed vases ; but as
we approached, the vase rims changed into the surf of the sea
breaking on the reef to feed its builders, and the bouquets
into clumps of cocoa-palms, iron-wood, and other trees which
the currents of the sea have washed together, and the passing
winds and wandering birds have carried thither to deck these
lone homes of the ocean fowl, which came fijihtinn: in our
wake for the scraps that fell from our floating table.

Holding on east by southward for a few days more, a hazy
streak appeared on our horizon, and my eyes rested on the
first of the IMalayan islands — on the distant peaks of Sumatra.
We anchored at Padang for a day, and, in sailing southward
along its coast, I could not admire sufliciently the magnificence
of that island — its great mountain chain running parallel
to the coast, and rising into smoking peaks, clad with forest to
the very crater rims, — which later I found to be all that I had
pictured it from the sea, and more.

On the morning of the second day, we entered the Sunda
Straits, that narrow water-pass by the opening of which between
Java and Sumatra, Nature has laid under grateful tribute all
Cape-coming and -going mariners through the Java Sea to and
from the Archipelago or Chinese ports. Dotted about in this
narrow channel, were low picturesque islands and solitary cones
of burnt-out craters, towering sheer up to a height of from two
to three thousand feet, all clothed in vegetation. Prominent
among the latter stood out the sharp cone of Krakatoa, whose
name will scarcely be forgotten by our generation at least, and

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

will live longer in the sorrowful remembrance of tbe inhabitants
of the shores of the strait. The appalling catastrophe of
August the 27th, 1883, would, however, sink into insignifi-
cance, if compared with that which, while this was still an
undiscovered sea, must have withdrawn the foundations of the
land over which the strait now flows.

On our right the Java coast lay in a series of beautiful
amphitheatre slopes, laid out in coftee-gardens and rice-
terraces ; on our left were the more distant Sumatra shores cut
into large and beautiful bays between long promontories, on the
easternmost of which stood out the liigli dome of Raja-basa.
Rounding St. Nicholas Point, we sailed eastward among the
tree-capped Thousand Islands. The coast of Java, on our
right, presented a singular appearance, for, for miles into the
interior it seemed elevated above the level of the sea scarcely
more than the height of the trees that covered it. Nothiu'*-
could be seen save the sea fringe of vegetation in front of a
green plain, behind which rose the hills of Bantam and the
Blue Mountains, as the old mariners called the peaks of
Buitenzorg.

Late in the afternoon of the ITtli of November, the Celebes
dropped her anchor in Batavia Roads, one of the greatest centres
of commerce in all these seas, amid a fleet flying the flags
of all nations. I had reached my destination ; but, scan the
shore as I might, I failed to detect anything like a town or even
a village, only a low shore with a fringe of trees whose roots
the surf was lazily lapping. As we approached the land in
the steam tender, into which we were at length transferred,
the shore opened out, and disclosed the mouth of a canal,
leading to the town a long mile inland. A traveller, dropped
down here by chance, might, from these canals, make a very
good guess at the nationality of the dominant power in the
island, for these placid water-roads are as dear to the heart of
the Hollander as heather-hills to a Highlander.

On stepping oft' the mail, I said good-bye to western life
and ways, and entered on others new and strange to me,
exciting my curiosity, full of fascination, even bewildering,
recalling the confused sensations of my first boyish visit to
the caj)ital. Even in the cunal, the first aspects of life were
intensely interesting. Here and there a fishing-boat passed

6 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

US, novel in cut and rig, decked with flowers at the prow,
rowed out to sea by some ten or twelve dusky fishers, sinf^ing
an intermittent song, timed to the rattle of their heavy oars
in the rowlocks ; a little further on, we glided past a fleet of
gaily painted craft, ^lalay, Chinese, and Arab, lying at anchor
under the canal wall, their occupants, in bright-coloured cali-
coes, lounging in unwonted attitudes about their decks.

Before we had moored by the side of the Custom-house, it
was quite dark, so that our landing was eflected under some
difficulty, amid the usual and necessary din and confusion,
and amid a very Babel of foreign tongues, of which not a
syllable was intelligible to me, save here and there a
Portuguese word still recognisable, even after the changes of
many centuries— veritable fossils bedded in the language of a
race, where now no recollection or knowledge of the peoples
who left them exists.

By dint of the universal language of signs, I got myself and
baggage at last transferred to a carriage, drawn by two small
splendid! V running ponies, of a famous breed from the island
of Suml)awa. After a drive of between two and three miles,
throuo-h what seemed an endless row of Chinese bazaars
and houses, remarkable mostly, as seen in the broken lamp-
light, for their squalor and stench, before which their occu-
pants at smoking and chatting, I at length emerged into
a more genial atmosphere, and into canal and tree-margined
streets, full of fine residences and hotels, very conspicuous by
the blaze of light that lit uj) their pillared and marbled fronts.

Taking up my quarters at the Hotel der Nederlanden, I had
to be content with an uncurtained shake-down on the floor of
the room of one of my fellow- passengers, as eveiy bed in the
hotel was occupied. Next morning, to every one's surprise,
I arose without a single mosquito bite, evidenily mosquito-
proof. To my unspeakable comfort and advantage, I re-
mained absolutely so during my whole sojourn in the East,
and was thus relieved of the necessity of burdening myself
with furniture against these, or any other insect pests whatever.

When the chaotic confusion of my first impressions of
Batavia had become reduced to order, I found that it consisted
of an old and a new town. The old town lies near the strand ;
is close, dusty, and stifling hot, standing scarcely anything

IN TEE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

above the sea-level. It contains the Stadthouse, the offices of
the Government, with the various consulates and banks, all
convenient to the wharf and the Custom-house, situated alone:
the banks of canals, which intersect the town in every
direction. Round this European nucleus cluster the native
village, the Arab and the Chinese " camps."

Of Chinamen, Batavia contains many thousands of inhabi-
tants, and, without this element, she might almost close her
warehouses, and send the fleet that studs her roads to ride in
other harbours ; for every mercantile house is directly dependent
on their trade. They are almost the sole purchasers of all the
wares they have to dispose of. They rarely purchase except on
credit, and a very sharp eye indeed has to be kept on them
while their names are on the firm's books, for they are invete-
rate, but clever scoundrels, ever on the outlook for an oppor-
tunity to defraud. In every branch of trade, the Chinaman is
absolutely indispensable, and, despite his entire lack of moral
attributes, his scoundrelism and dangerous revolutionary ten-
dencies, he must be commended for his sheer hard work, his
indomitable energy and perseverance in them all. There is
not a species of trade in the town, except, perhaps, that of
bookseller and chemist, in which he does not engage. Many
of them possess large and elegantly fitted up tokos or shops,
filled with the best European, Chinese, and Japanese stores;
their workmanship is generally quite equal to European, and
in every case they can far undersell their Western rivals.

The Arab, who like the Chinaman is prevented . because of
his intriguing disposition from going into the interior of the
island, does, in a quiet and less obtrusive way, a little shop-
keeping and money-lending, but is oftener owner of some sort
of coasting craft, with which he trades from port to port, or
to the outlying islands.

The natives of the town — that is, coast Malays and 8un-
danese — perform only the most menial work ; they are vehicle
drivers, the more intelligent are house servants, small traders,
and assistants to the Chinese, but the bulk are coolies. They
have no perseverance, and not much intelligence ; and are
very lazy, moderately dishonest, and inveterate gamblers, but
otherwise innocuous.

This was the Batavia — fatal-climated Batavia — of past

8 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

(lays. In this low-lying, close and stinking neighbourhood,
devoid of wholesome water, scorched in the daytime, and
chilled by the cold sea fogs in the night, did the Eastern
merchant of half-a-ceutury ago reside, as well as trade. Out
of this, however, if he survived the incessant waves of fever,
cholera, small-pox, and typhoid, he returned home in a few
years, the rich partner of some large house, or the owner of a
great fortune.

All this is changed now. Morning and evening, the train
whirls in a few minutes the whole European population —
which tries, in vain, to amass fortunes like those of past times
— to and from the open salubrious suburbs, the new town, of
fine be-gardened residences, each standing in a grove of trees
flanking large parks, the greatest of which, the King's Plain,
has each of its sides nearly a mile in length. Here the
Governor-General has his official Palace — his unofficial resi-
dence being on the hills at Buitenzorg, about thirty miles to
the south of Batavia ; and here are built the barracks, the clubs,
the hotels, and the best shops, dotted along roads shaded by
leafy Hibiscus shrubs, or by the Poinciatia regia, an imported
Madagascar tree, which should be seen in the end of the year,
when its broad spreading top is one mass of orange-red
blossoms, whose falling petals redden the path, as if from
the lurid glare of a fiery canopy above. To these pleasant
avenues, in the cool of the evening, just after sunset, and
before the dinner-hour, all classes, either driving or on foot
resort for exercise and friendly intercourse.

In front of the barracks, another fine park, the Waterloo
Plain, is ornamented by a tall column, surmounted by a
rampant lion, with an inscription to commemorate the prowess
of the Netherlanders in winuing the battle of Waterloo. A
remark, perhaps not quite fair, of a Ceylon friend on view-
ing the pillar and its long inscription : " The lion at the top
is not more conspicuous than the lyin' at the bottom I "

Having been furnished, through the kind influence of
Professor Suringar, of Leyden, with an autograph letter of
recommendation from His Excellency the then Minister for
the Colonies, to the Governor-General of the Netherlands'
Indies, I proceeded, very shortly after my arrival, to Buiten-
zorg, for the purpose of presenting it. From His Excellency

IN THE COCOS-EEELING ISLANDS. 9

I received most favourable letters of commendation to all in
authority under his jurisdiction, and parted with the expres-
sion of his warm interest and best wishes.

Buitenzorg is one of the chief holiday and health resorts of
sick Batavians, and possesses not only a magnificent climate,
but scenery of great beauty and picturesqueness. It is
overlooked by two large and at present harmless volcanic
mountains, the Salak with its disrupted cone, into whose very
heart one looks by the terrible cleft in its side, and the double-
peaked Pangerango and Gede, from whose crater is ever
lazily curling up white vapoury smoke from the simmering
water which at present fills the summit of its pipe. Besides
the fine views to be had in its neighbourhood, Buitenzorg is
chiefly remarkable for its botanic garden, perhaps the finest
in the world, which surrounds the Governor's palace, and in
which many weeks might be profitably and delightfully spent
by the botanist.

To 3Ir. Teysmann, who died but recently, after some sixty
years of unbroken service in it, the garden is largely in-
debted for the actual ingathering of the bulk of its treasures.
For fifty years he was engaged in collecting through tlie
islands of the Archipelago ; and some of the rarest and finest
specimens in it, brought as seeds by him, he had the satisfaction
of seeing develop into the grandest of its trees.

A long wide avenue of Kanarie [Canarium commune) trees
traverses the centre of the garden, which interlacing high
overhead in a superb leafy canopy, affords at all hours of the
day a delightful promenade. Near the principal entrance a
tall Amherstia nobilis forms in the rainy season, when it is
ablaze with immense scarlet flower-trosses and plumes of young
leaves of the richest brown, a remarkable object of beauty. On
the right the garden descends to its boundary stream tlirough
arboreta of Buteas, Cassias, Calliandras, Tamarinds, and Poin-
cianas, to groves of Bromeleads and tall Cadacese, Pandans,
Xipas, Cyca<ls and climbing Screw-pines; to i)lots of Ama-
ryllide/v, Iris and water-loving plants ; and beneath the richest
palmetum in the world, its glory perhaps the Cyrtostachys
rendu, whose long bright scarlet leaf sheaths and flower-
spathes, and its red fruit and deep yellow inflorescence hanging
side by side, at once arrest the eye.

10 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Bordering the stream is quite a little forest of oaks, laurels
and figs, many of them yet unknown to science, merging in a
long, dark, tunnel-like corridor of banyan trees. In a dense
clump affixed to tall tree ferns and Cambodias, whose white,
heavy-odoured flowers entirely carpeted the ground, were
thousands of orchids from all countries, most of them blossom-
ino- as profusely as in their native habitat, except a few of
the higher and cooler-living New World species, such as the
Cattleyas, which gradually dwindle away and die out in a few
years. More strangely, the native Phaloenopses {amdbilis and
graridijlord) refuse to thrive in the gardens, 750 feet above
the sea, while in Batavia few plants flower so luxuriantly as
they do.

On the left of the central walk there are two remarkable
avenues ; the one of stately Brazilian palms, the Oreodoxa
oleracea, whose globular base and smooth ringed stems, were as
straight and symmetrical as if turned in a lathe, and in their
whiteness contrasted markedly with the deep green of the leaf
sheaths and crown of foliage ; the other of bamboos, remarkable
for the number and luxuriance of its species. The curious root-
growing Rafflesias, the Amoiyhopliallus titanum, a giant arum,
and the Teysmannia altifrons, a rare broad-leafed palm, from
Sumatra, and others as rare, which would require too long a list
to enumerate, were to be studied here. My daily morning
round of the garden invariably terminated in a seat under an
umbrageous india-rubber tree, in front of which a fountain
played into a circular pond dotted with blue and white flowers
of water-lilies and Victoria regias. In the sparkling light of
the early sun it was the most charming of spots for a rest.

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 11

CHAPTER II.

SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

Start for the Cocos-Keeling Islands — In the Straits of Sunda — An unex-
pected pilot— Arrival — History of the colony tliere — Terrible cyclones: —
Home life of the colonists now — The reef and its builders — Fishes in the
lagoon — Crabs and their operations— Plant life — Insect life — Mammals
— Birds.

The end of the year 1878 was noted for its very heavy rains,
which in the month of December were at their worst. Trans-
port and travel were not only difficult, but in many districts
impossible. Just as I was getting rather puzzled as to how
to get away anywhere out of Batavia, I learned that a small
sailing craft, on which I was offered a passage, was on the point
of leaving for the Cocos-Keeling Islands. With this outlying
spot, made famous by Mr. Darwin's visit in 1836, I was
familar from his ' Coral Reefs.' It did not, therefore, take me
long to decide to accept an offer which was as gratifying as it
was unexpected.

After a wearisome fight of fourteen days with the Monsoon
wind at the entrance of the Sunda Straits, we succeeded in
reaching the little village of Anjer, where we stopped a day to
replenish our failing stores of provisions, and to eat our New
Year's feast in the picturesque inn there, whose verandah
commanded a delightful view of the island-studded strait and
of the rugged mountains of Sumatra on the other side. The
wind, which had opposed us so i)ersistently, had on the day we
again set sail subsided altogether, and it was with the greatest
difficulty that we could haul clear off the land. Day after day
brought us a monotonous calm.

It was something, however, that at this season the forest
along the slowly passing shores and isles was in the full burst
of spring, when it wears in the morning light its most charming
aspect, of surpassing beauty to my novitiate eyes ; the piping

12 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

mid-day alone was ungrateful, almost unbearable, exposed to
the sun, as we were, without awning or protection ; the evening-
sunsets were scenes to be remembered for a lifetime. The tall
cones of Sibissie and Krakatoa rose dark purple out of an un-
rufHed golden sea, which stretched away to the south-west, where
the sun went down ; over the horizon grey fleecy clouds lay in
banks and streaks, above them pale blue lanes of sky, alternating
with orange bands, which higher up gave place to an expanse
of red stretching round the whole heavens. Gradually as the
sun retreated deeper and deeper, the sky became a marvellous
golden curtain, in front of which the grey clouds coiled them-
selves into weird forms before dissolving into space, taking
with them our last hope that they might contain a breeze, and
leaving us at rest on the placid water, over which shoals of
water-bugs (of the genus Halobates probably) glided, covering
its surface with circles like gentle rain-drop rings ; there was
not a sound to break the silence save tlie plunge of a porpoi$e
or the fluck of the fishes in quest of their evening meal.
Perhaps these rich after-glows were due to the Kaba eruption
then jroinfi^ on in Mid-Sumatra.

One day, we passed a large log in the sea floating in the
current, to which numerous little crabs were clinging, on their
way, perhaps, to colonise some new and distant shore.

On the afternoon of the sixteenth day of weary beating from
Anjer, a pure white tern suddenly appeared, and, circling about
the vessel, produced quite a flutter of excitement. It was the
lovely Gygis Candida, one of the Keeling Island birds, whicli
our native boatswain declared never went far from home, and
that Ave must, therefore, be near our destination.

Several of the sailors ran aloft, and in a few minutes
descried to the northward the crowns of the higher cocoa-
nut palms on the southern islands. We straightway changed
our course ; for our skipper had evidently miscalculated our
noon position, and, but for this timely jiilot, would have sailed
past in the night. At sundown the islands aj^peared from the
deck as a dark uneven line, rising little above the horizon ; at
ten o'clock we cautiously sailed in to the anchorage in the
lagoon, lighted througli by the phosphorescence from shoals of
large fishes, which darted like rockets from below our keel.

The scene that met mv eves next morninir was a curious

7.V THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 13

one : a calm lake-like sea enclosed by a palisade of palm trees
on a narrow riband of land. My first feelings were those of
surprise at the size of the atoll ; for it was very much smaller
than the mental picture I had formed of it from studying
the Admiralty chart, and then of wonder that such a speck
could hold its own against the relentless ocean, which seemed
as if it might wash it away in any angry moment.

To form by personal observation more clear ideas of coral
formation, and chiefly to note how the struggle between the
reef-makers and the waves had been going during the past
forty-three years, and perhaps the pride of saying I had
lived on a reef, being the objects of my coming, no amount
of dissimilarity from conceived ideas could disappoint me, or
cause me to regret my visit ; but I could not help thinking
that it was a woe-begone spot to choose for a perpetual home,
and a limited field to expend one's energies on.

j\Ir. G. C. Ross, the proprietor, shortly came on board, and
with the most hearty greeting welcomed me ; he rowed me
ashore, and, without power of gainsay, installed me as guest in
his comfortable home, for I was the first European who, not
by compulsion of weather or other disaster, but really of set
purpose, had during that period visited his island. We sat
far into the night talking together, and I scarcely know which
of us seemed most eager to learn. The rapid question and
reply shot between us incessantly to the early hours, and as
we sat and talked, it was with an eerie feeling that I felt the
very foundations of the land thrill under my feet at every dull
boom of the surf on the outward barrier — I conveying to my
host's household all that was stranfrest and most interesting;
from the busy centres of civilisation, in politics (a far cry to
them), in discovery and in invention, all that was newest from
the outer and, to them, far-off world ; he relating to me the
thrilling domestic annals of liis island domain.

Half a century had elapsed since his grandfather, descended
of an old Scottish family wrecked in the troublous times of
1743, having brought an adventurous seafaring life to a close
in command of one of the vessels stationed in the Java Sea,
for tlm protection of British interests during our occupation
of tliat island, had landed in December, 182.3, and virtually
taken possession of the group. His intention was to make
3

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the spot a call port for the repair and provisioning of
vessels voyaj^ing between home and China, Australia, and
India. Without then taking up residence, he proceeded to
England, but returned in 1827 with his wife and family of six
children, accompanied by twelve Englishmen, one Javanese,
and one Portuguese. On landing he was surprised to find
another Englishman, Mr. Alexander Hare, in possession of a
third part of the group. This gentleman had held a govern-
ment post in South Borneo during the English supremacy in
the Sunda Islands ; but having tried to assume the state of
an independent ruler, which on the reinstalment of Dutch
authority, he found himself unable to hold, he retired here
with a larfje harem of various nationalities and numerous
slaves, whom he treated with great harshness.

Mr. Ross, having brought out his English apprentices on an
understanding that, as the whole atoll was his own, there
would be, in the development of its resources, sufficient
outlet for their energies, was much discouraged by the turn
affairs had assumed. Hare exhibited a very unfriendly spirit
towards the new-comers, so that, on Mr. Eoss offering his
people a release from their agreement, all, except three (a
woman and two men), took the first opportunity of leaving in
one of 11. M. gunboats which touched at the islands. Ross
managed, however, to increase his party by seven or eight
persons from Java, and later on by additional Europeans, some
of them his own relatives. With a large number of Sundanese
coolies, hired in Batavia, hj opened a trade in cocoanuts with
the Mauritius, with Madras, and with Bencoolen and various
other ports of the Archipelago.

Possessed of a considerable fortune. Hare lived for some time
a lethargic life in mock regal style, in the midst of the con-
stant discord and jealousies of his retinue, and in hostility to
his neighbour. For the protection of what he considered an im-
portantly situated island, and of his own rights, Ross solicited
the authorities in the i\Iauritius to take the group under their
protection — a responsibility they did not see it advisable to
assume. Hare, on the other hand, covertly instigated the
Dutch Government to claim possession, a suggestion which
the Batavian officials entertained only so far as to send a
gunboat to examine and report on the condition of the

IN I HE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 15

islands. Direct application was then made by Eoss to King
William to proclaim the atoll English territory, but without
success. Hare, after several years of a most worthless sort
of existence, took his departure for Singapore, where it is said
he shortly after died.

Mr. Darwin's visit took place not very long after Hare's
departure, and just after the change of the settlement from
South-Eastern to New Selima Island and his report as to the
comfortable and flourishing state of the young colony at that
time is not very ftivourable. It was always a subject of keen
regret to Mr. Eoss, that on Mr. Darwin's visit, in 1836, he
was not at home. IMr. Leisk, who was in charge, showed Mr.
Darwin over the place, and gave him a great deal of infor-
mation, but though given in good faith, much of it was not
quite accurate. After a few years of peaceful and undisturbed
possession of the atoll, the whole of which Mr. Eoss then laid
claim to, it attained to a most prosperous condition ; and
its ships became well known throughout the Archipelago,
Eoss himself being styled the King of the Cocos Islands.
Two villages were erected, one for the hired coolies, and the
other, a little way distant, for the Euroj)eans and those who
threw in their lot with the new colony and were to share its
fortunes — the true Cocos colonists. I'his state of prosperity
was due mainly to the efforts of his eldest son — the father
devoting the closing years of his life chiefly to study.* Their
trade prospered and afi'orded a handsome annual balance
for many years, and altogether life seems to have been very
pleasant save for one element, the hired population.

The only coolies wlio could be got to engage to leave Java for
a term of years, were criminals who had served their time in the
chain-gangs of Batavia, and as they far outnumbered the Euro-
peans and colonists, and werecapableof any atrocity, they were
a constant source of danger, and a heavy anxiety to those in
charge. Every night a strongly armed patrol of true Cocos
people had to mount guard from sunset to sunrise, and still
continues to do so, with military regularity and rigour, the
watches being struck, as on ship board, all through the night.

* By ."v curious mistal<c in tliO Ttoyal Society's Catalogue of Scientific
P;il)ers, Mr. J. C. Hoss's criticisiii of Mr. Darwin's ' Cural Keefs' is attributed
to Sir J. C. Koss, the Arctic explorer.

16 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

From the amount of cocoa-nut husk, or coir, as well as from
the combustible nature of all the buildings and of the palm
trees themselves, incendiarism was the crime most feared at
the hands of the lawless. Consequently it was sternly enforced
that every individual should report himself at the guard-house
at a fixed hour ; and that every fire should be quenched at
sunset. It was penal for anyone to spend the night on any
but the Home island, without express permission from the
captain of the guard. Every boat was numbered and had to
be in its place an hour' before sunset ; if it were not, by tock of
drum a muster was called, the absentees noted, and a search
instantly instituted, to bring back the defaulters or to render
aid in case of accident.

Unsullied as their history began, it was not long till a
Black Calendar had to be added to their island archives.
Criminals invariably betook themselves to the concealment of
the forest-clad islets, v/here they could often elude capture
for weeks ; but, unless they could steal a provisioned boat,
which was almost' impossible, they could get no further.
The tale of the restless dread and suspense which held the
whole community, when some mutineer, with the desperate
spirit of amoh in him, was at large, and the exciting efforts to
effect and to elude capture, was a chapter, which demanded
little from the narrator's art, to engage my sympathies and my
profound interest in this community, living its chequered life
so far from the sympathies of the world.

To prevent any temptation to robbery no coined money
is allowed on the atoll. The currency is in sheep-skin notes
signed by Mr. Eoss, which are good as between member and
member of the community. AVages are paid in these cr
in goods and food articles brought regularly from Batavia,
while the notes are exchangeable for Dutch money in Batavia
on presentation to Mr. lloss's agent.

On the olst March, 1857, as a large inscribed board near
the landing place on Home island proclaims. Captain Fre-
mantle in H.M.S. Juno visited the Cocos Islands, and, after
the usual royal salute, declared them part of the British
dominions, and Mr. Ross (the father of the present proprietor)
their Governor during Her Majesty's pleasure. The whole
was, it appears, a ludicrous mistake on the part of Captain

7.V THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 17

Fremantle, for the island intended to be annexed was one of
the same name somewhere in the Andaman group ! It is
gratifying, however, to know that the ishinds are after all
really British territory, for I myself carried down a copy of
the Proclamation in the Ceijlon Gazette of November 1878, by
which the Cocos-Keeling Islands were annexed to the Govern-
ment of Ceylon, '' to prevent any foreign power stepping in
and taking possession of them, for the purpose of settlement,
or for a coaling station," as Russian agents, it was reported, had
been examining the locality with sinister views.

The islands being of extreme salubrity, the true Keeling
population, now mostly of mixed blood, had rapidly increased,
and they enjoyed unbroken prosperity till J 862, when a
cyclone in a few hours entirely wrecked their homes. The
present proprietor, the third in succession, then a student
of engineering in Glasgow, was hurriedly summoned to aid
his father in the restoration of the islands, a task he was
suddenly left alone to accomplish, when quite a young man,
by the death of his parent. Abandoning all the more
ambitious plans of his life, he gave himself up to the new
position which he had been so unexpectedly called to fill, and
with the warmest heartiness threw himself into all the interests
of the islanders. He devised and has carried out liberal plans
for their improvement, and for the advancement of those com-
mitted to his charge. Marrying a Cocos-born wife, who shared
his ideas and interests, they became the parents of the people
rather than their masters and rulers.

As rapidly as possible he rid himself of the chain-gang men,
and being able, by a change in the laws at Batavia, to obtain
coolies of the non-criminal class, he engaged only those of
the best character. He cleared off the remaining forest and
planted the ground with palms. Success attended his efforts.
At length he brought into the Indian Ocean the new sounds
of the puffing of steam mills, the whirring of lathes and saws,
and the clang of the anvil. The general education of the
children has h^fin under a younger brother of Mr. Boss's,
educated in a Scottish university. Every Cocos man has had,
besides performing his ordinary duties of gathering nuts
and preparing oil — which, exchanged in Batavia, returns as
gain, or the food which they cannot produce within their own

18 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

bounds — to learn to work — and their proficiency astonished me
— in brass, iron and wood. Every Cocos girl has had her term
of apprenticeship to spend in Mrs. Boss's house in learning
under her direction sewing, cooking, and every house- wifely
duty as practised in European homes. I shall not soon
forget the deft handmaiden — female servants were employed
ta do all the liousehold work — who attended to my room ;
she was a tall Papuan, who had been rescued from slavery,
now one of the true Cocos people, in whom all tke grace of
body and limb that slie inherited from her race had developed,
under the happy circumstances under which she had come,
into the perfection of the human female figure. She could not
have performed her work with more neatness and dexterity had
she been trained at home. With all the respect of a servant, she
mingled a kind solicitude in looking after my comfort and
attending to my wants, which as a daughter of the island to its
guest, she might without presumption use. A fresh rose was
daily laid on my pillow and on the folded-down counterpane,
while, that the water in my basin might seem fresher than its
sparkling self, she sprinkled it with fragrant rose leaves.

No more flourishing or contented community could have
been found at the opening of 1870, than its 500 island-born
inhabitants. On the 25th of January, however, the mercurial
barometer indicated some unusual atmosjjheric disturbance,
and the air felt extremely heavy and oppressive. On the 28th
it fell to close on 28 inches, a warning which gave time for
all boats to be hauled to a place of safety, and other prepara-
tions for a storm to be made. On the afternoon of the same
day, there appeared in the western sky an ominously dark
bank of clouds, and at 4 p.m. a cyclone of unwonted fury burst
over this part of the Indian Ocean. The storehouses and
mills, but recently renewed, were completely gutted and de-
molished ; every house in both villages was carried completely
away. Among the palm-trees the wind seems to have played
a frantic and capricious devil's dance. Pirouetting wildly
round the atoll, in some places it had cleared lanes hundreds
of yards in length, snapping off the trees close to the ground ;
in others, it had swooped down, without making an entrance or
exit path, and borne bodily away large circular patches, leaving
unharmed the encircling trees ; here and there, sometimes in

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 19

the centre of dense clumps, selecting a single stem — a thick
tree of thirty years' growth — it had danced with it one light-
ning revolution, and left it a permanent spiral screw perfectly
turned, but otherwise uninjured.

About midnight of the 28th, when intense darkness would
have prevailed but for the incessant blaze of lightning, whose
accompanying thunder was drowned by the roar of the tempest,
when every one was endeavouring to save what rice — the only
provision spared to them — they could, Mr. Ross discovered to
his horror, the bowsprit of a vessel which had been lying at
anchor, riding on the top of a great wave straight for the wall
behind which they sheltered. There was just time to make
themselves fast before the water rushed over them, fortunately
without carrying the ship through the wall ; a second wave
washed completely over the spot where Ross's house had stood,
distant 150 yards from high-water mark. The storm attained
its height about one o'clock on the morning of the 29th. At that
hour nothing could resist the unsubstantial air, worked into a
fury ; no obstacle raised a foot or two above the ground could
resist its violence. The inhabitants saved themselves only
by lying in hollows of the ground. To what distance the
barometer might have fallen, it is impossible to say, for the
mercurial was carried away, and two aneroids gave in at
26k inches.

The following morning broke bright and calm, as if the
tempestuous riot of the night might have been an evil dream,
only not a speck of green could be seen anywhere within the
compass of the islands. Round the whole atoll the solid coral
conglomerate floor was scooped under, broken up and thrown in
vast fragments on the beach. On the eastern shore of Home
Island, in })articular just opposite the settlement, I observed
a wall of many yards breadth, portions of it thrown up clear
over the external high rim of the island, and several yards
inwards among the cocoanut trees, all along the margin of the
island. After six months, every tree and shrub was clothed
in verdure ; and before three years, they were in full bearing
again.

About tliirty-six hours after the cyclone the water on the
eastern side of the lagoon was observed to be lising uj) from
below of a dark colour. The origin of the spring, which

20 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

continued to ooze out for about ten to fourteen days, lay some-
where between the southern end of New Selima and the
northern end of Gooseberry Island. The colour was of an inky
hue, and its smell " like that of rotten eggs." From this point
it spread south-westward as far as the deep baylet in South-
east Island, where meeting the currents, flowing in at the
westward and northern entrances, which run, the one round
the western, the other round the eastern shore of the lagoon,
its westward progress was stopped ; whereupon, turning north-
wards through the middle of the lagoon (becoming slightly
less dark as it proceeded), it debouched into the ocean by the
northern channel. Within twenty-four hours, every fish, coral
and mollusc, in the part impregnated with this discolouring
substance — probably hydrosulphuric or carbonic acid — died.
So groat was the number of fish thrown on the beach, that it
took tliree weeks of hard work to bury them in a vast trench
dug in tlie sand.

At the time of my visit, the islands were slowly recovering
from this sad disaster, and the whole settlement, living far from
the busy strife of the Avorld, yet sufficiently mingling with
it to afford contentment without envy, seemsd tha ideal of a
peaceful and happy colony. Mr. Rjss, who is associated with
several of his brothers, occupies a commodious and comfortable
house midway between the two villages, surrounded by a high
wall, enclosing a large garden in which fruit-trees and shrubs
— sow manilla [Mimusops), bananas, loquat {Erioh-drya), Poin-
cianas, and roses in grand profusion, — seem to flourish remark-
ably well, notwithstanding the scanty soih Each Keeling
family possesses its own neat plank house, comfortably fur-
nished, enclosed in a little garden. Housed in a trim shed by
the water's edge, each has one or more boats. These boats are
their pride ; and so ardently do they vie with each other in
their sj)eed, and in the elegance of their shape and furnishings,
that the village possesses a fleet of really masterpieces of boat
architecture. Living on the sea, as they do, they are all from
their birth naturally skilful sailors ; and one of the pleasantest
reminiscences of my visit, is the sight of that little white-
sailed fleet beating home across the lagoon, in a sunny evening,
against a stiffish breeze.

It was exceedingly pleasant to observe the cordial and

IN THE COCOS-EEELING ISLANDS. 21

affectionate relations existing between The House and the Coeos
village. I noted little presents of first ripe fruit, or specially-
large eggs constantly being offered. AVhen a death occurs —
as one did during my visit — it is felt by each individual as if
the departed had been of his own family. The interment
takes place as soon as possible, and the usual vocations are
resumed at once, every one trying, as best he may, to seem as
if he had forgotten that they were one fewer. That in their
relations one with another there should be perfection, is not to
be exjiected, but a finer and more upright community I have
never known ; not a simpler or more guileless people — many
of whom have never known, and never seen a world wider than
their own atoll, which can be surveyed in a single glance of
the eye ; and I feel more than half confident that the English
Service for the Dead has been said over, and that beneath the
coral shingle of Grave Islet there rest, as blameless lives as
perhaps our weak humanity can attain to.

The labourers' village is neatly kept, and though the coolies
live under a stricter regime, they are treated liberally and
kindly, and housed in comfortable dwellings. Their children
are educated along with the Cocos children. Should a head of
a family die, his children are, at the mother's oj)tion, sent
back to their native place in Java, or if she elect, she and
they may throw in their lot with, and after a certain probation
become, Cocos people. Malay is the language spoken in both
villages, though many of the Cocos people understand English.

As this was my first acquaintance with living coral formation,
everything about me had the interest of novelty. jMy first
morning's walk was to the seaward margin of the reef. As half
a century is hardly a day's life in the existence of an atoll, Mr.
Darwin's accurate description of that part of it might have
been written the day before. The waves so continually break
on the shore, that it is difficult, except on the very stillest
days, to examine the coral on the furthest margin ; yet I got
every now and then, on the recoil of the waves, a good view of
the shoals of Scams feeding in the surf on the living coral.
They are furnished on the front of their heads with soft pads,
so as to be able to retain their position undisturbed among the
breakers, by squeezing hard up against the uneven wall, while
they are gnawing off the tips of the living polyps. During

22 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

my visit I had, no very calm days ; but in the still waters of
tlie lagoon there was enough to occupy the busiest pair of eyes
for weeks.

The wonderful display of colour seen in the placid water of a
lagoon has been often described ; but it can give to one, who
has not himself visited a coral reef, but a very slight idea of
the fairy bowers to be seen from over the side of a boat
gliding gently across the surface of such a marine lake.

I carefully examined that part of the lagoon over which the
poisoned water had spread, on a day when the water was so
calm that I could see the minutest objects on the bottom. Its
whole eastern half was one vast field c»f blackened and lifeless
coral stems, and of the vacant and lustreless shells of giant
clams and other Mollusca, paralysed and killed in all stages
of expansion. Everywhere both shells and coral were deeply
corroded, the coral especially being in many places worn down
to the solid base. Since the catastrophe, there had been, till
almost the date of my visit, no sign of life in that portion of
the lagoon ; I saw very few fishes, and only here and there
a new branch of Madrepora and Porites. I found only one
tridacna alive (its three years' growth being 12 inches in
length, r.nd 13 in breadth).

That an earthquake certainly occurred on this reef, as
recorded by Mr. Darwin, two years before the visit of the
Beagle, is an interesting fact. That an earthquake took place
in 1876, cannot, I think, judging from the tidal wave, be
doubted, although no tremor was detected by any one on the
island — scarcely to be wondered at during the war of the
elements. The wave, as well as the darkened water which
issued, doubtless from a submarine rent, was almost certainly
the result of volcanic disturbance in the close vicinity of the
atoll. Mr. Darwin has described a dead field of coral observed
by him, in the upper and south-east part, and has accounted
for it by assuming, from information given him by Mr. Leisk,
that S.E. island had been at one time divided into several
islets by channels, whose closing up had prevented the water
from rising so high in the lagoon as formerly; and that,
therefore, the corals, which had attained their utmost possible
limit of upward growth, must have been killed by occasional
exposure to the sun.

7.V THE COCOS'KEELINO ISLANDS. 23

I examined the chart made by Ross in 1825, ten years
before Mr. Darwin's visit, but it exhibited no peieeptible
difference in the external configuration of the various islets..
The soundings in the lagoon, however, showed a greater
continuous depth at that time, and I am told that his vessel
sailed, on her first coming, far up the bay, and anchored
where now no ship can nearly approach. It is more probable
that the explanation of this dead field lies in the supposition
that a like phenomenon to that just narrated accompanied the
earthquake of 1834. Beyond the boundary affected by the
dark water, the coral was unharmed, and growing vigorously
in thick bosses, (called " patches " by Mr. Darwin,) composed
chiefly of Madrepora and FociUopora, between whicli were
basins of no great diameter, but reaching to a depth of some
eight or ten fathoms, which were marvellous natural aquaria
planted round with anemones, tesselated in blue and green
designs with Fungise and brain-corals. But why no other
species should grow in these deep clear pits, and why the
various corals forming the bosses — which are chiefly of
Echinopora lamellosa — do not stretch out their arms into
and obliterate them, seems difticult to understand.

In the small boat channel close to the settlement, one of the
few poisoned places in which the coral had begun to grow-
vigorously since 187G, I dislodged with my hand several
living bunches from the chalky bottom on which they
were growing. Their average diameter across the top was
12 inches, and their height from the centre to the tip of
the branches 6^ inches. This channel was thoroughly
cleaned out down to the white mud on the 20th May, 1878,
and as my measurements were made on the 30th January,
1879, the age of these bunches was under eight and a half
months.

1 could not help being struck by the number of brilliantly
hued fishes in the deep pools of the lagoon. Banded and
spotted ^lurosnoids (species of Lsiuranus and Opisnrus) glided
about in snake-like fashion ; in sea-weed or hydroid-covered
crevices motionless Antennarii lay in wait, but it required a
sharp eye to distinguish their quaintly adorned and mimicking
bodies from the excrescences of their retreat. Other singular
denizens of the lagoon are the Crayracions, which look like

24 A NATURALIST 'S WANDERINGS

round hedgehogs floating (as they do often) on the surface of
the water ; their jaws are armed with formidable solid teeth to
enable them to feed on the coral ; and the File-fishes, painted
with coerulean bands and harnessed with blue bridle-lines,
which not only feed on the coral, but bore their way through
the shells of 3Iollusca to extract the succulent morsels within.
Their bodies terminate in a most convenient-looking tail, as
if made purposely to handle them by, and I could not help
feeling maliciously imposed on when I did so, by having
very precipitately to drop a fine specimen I was lifting for
examination, on the sharp hidden spines, with which that
organ is set, running into my hand like a series of lances.
One of the commonest genera of fishes in the tropical seas
of the Atlantic, Australian and Indo-Pacific regions is the
Chsetodon, which is particularly attractive on account of the
form and the singular brilliance of the coloration of its species.
The heaps of fish that my boys, a couple of urchins not more
than four years of age, used, by alternately harpooning and
diving after them to bring in, formed when piled on the white
background of the coral shore, a bright picture indeed from
the wonderful variety of their colours — emerald-green, cobalt-
blue, rich orange, and even scarlet.

Most of the lagoon fishes are good for food ; but there
is a species of Scarus which requires to be prepared for the
table with very great care, for should the gall-bladder be
ruptured, and its contents escape into the body-cavity, the
flesh of the fish becomes quite poisoned. Several fatal cases
had occurred in the settlement, especially among children,
who almost immediately after partaking of the flesh were
seized with giddiness and stupor, followed by death, with a
dropsical state of the body, within two or three hours. The
effect of the application of the bile externally produced simply
a bad fester. A woman while cleaning such a fish by the shore,
on one occasion threw out the entrails on the water, when a
Frigate-bird {Tacliy petes minor) which had been hovering over
her, swooping down picked up the tempting morsel ; but it
had risen only some thirty feet in the air, when it fell back on
the water lifeless. The sharks, the albacore {Thi/nnus termo)
and the baracuta are the pirates of the lagoon, and the chief
agents in restraining its over-population.

7.Y TUE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 25

Among the branches of the ginger-coral, a great variety of
Crustacea are to be seen creeping about, and in all the crevices
Mollusca of every family, most conspicuous among them being
the giant clams of the genus Tridacnu, whose mantle edged with
turquoise beads forms a beautiful object to look down on ; but
one must shudder for the diver who should accidentally thrust
his head or a limb into its gape, which the slightest touch
causes to close with a snap.

Nor was the interest of the atoll confined to its surf-beaten
barrier and its teeming lagoon ; every foot of the surface of the
land, every atom of its substance, every stem of the vegetation
that covered it, and each separate existence that crept or
winged itself on and around it, by its very presence in this
mid-ocean speck, was charged with a wondrous tale of strange
vicissitudes and wanderings. By the inner margins of some
of the islands (as will be seen on looking at the map), and
forming lagoonlets in some of them, there are soft limy mud-
flats, which are gradually becoming land, mainly by slow-
elevation and by crustacean agency.

One of the laro-cst of these is in West Island. Its la2:oon-
ward portion, near the entrance conduit, which is submerged
at high water, is tenanted by two, if not three, species of
crab {Gelasimus voccais, tetragonon, and annulipes). They live
in narrow corkscrew burrows, round the top of which there
is always a little mound just such as is seen about an earth-
worm's ; and indeed they are most perfect worm substitutes.
I counted one hundred and twenty of their holes in an area
only two feet square ; and as there were many square acres in
the ground of which I speak, some idea of the number of this
busy army may be obtained. They were incessantly active
during the recess of the tide and even during high water,
which is generally perfectly still, in carrying down twigs of
trees or fucus leaves, scraps of cocoanut shell, and seeds,
laying the foundation of the future land.

On placing the foot on the region occupied by them, one
perceives an undulation of the surface followed, over a circular
area, by a surprising change of the pure white ground into a
warm ])ink colour, which for the moment the stranger puts down
to some aifection of his eyes from the reflection of the light.
lie soon perceives that this movement is caused by the siraul-

26 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

taneous stampede of the dense crowd of the peopled shore into
their dwellings, just within the door of which they halt, with
the larger of their two pincer-claws, which is of a rich pink
colour, effectually barring the entrance except where one
watchful stalked eye is thrust out to take an inquiring look
if the alarm is real. As one advances the jnnk areas again
cliange into white, as the Crustaceans withdraw into their sub-
terranean fastnesses. On traversing a broad field occupied by
these crabs, the constant undulations and change of colours,
produce a curious dazzling effect on the eyes.

The land between tide-marks is occupied by another turret-
eyed vigilant pioneer of vegetable occupation against marine
possession, which extends its operations further landward than
the Gelastmus, and where the ground is more or less wet. This
is a species of Macrophthahnus whose colour protects it from
general observation till it starts to run. One-third of its time
is spent under water, and two-thirds in energetic mining opera-
tions on land. It is to be seen constantly scattering around it,
with a nervous jerk, the arm-fulls of sand which, held between
its body and clawed foot, it has dragged up from below out of
the burrows into which it carries all sorts of vegetable debris.
On the slightest sound it scampers off to take refuge in the
water, and is at once noticeable by its mobile stalked eyes curi-
ously pricked up high over its body. These eye-stalks are
conical cylinders set round, except on the narrow area along
which they are applied to each other in the mid-lino of the
body, with facets which really form perfect little watch-towers
commanding an unobstructed outlook to all points of the
compass.

The area along the dry margin of the land is occupied
by a third — a short-eyed — species of crab {Ocijpoda), whose
labours seem to tell more than those of the otliers. Besides
burying smaller particles of vegetable debris, it lowers down
large branches of trees, and even cocoa-nuts, by scooping away
the soil below them, and carries down also the newly fallen seeds
of the iron-wood tree {Cordia). Both these trees, which along
with a rough sort of grass {Lepturiis repens) and the hard-
wooded Femphis acidula lead the van of vegetable occupation
of lands wrested from the sea, are in tliis way aided in their
forward march. As soon, however, as its busy labours have

7.Y THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 27

changed the white calcareous fore-shore into a dark vegetable
mould, its occupation seems gone, and it retires in quest of
new land to conquer.

Further landward the soil is tilled and turned up to the sun
and rain by a species of Gecarcinus, which lives almost entirely
in the dry land, visiting the sea only in times of great drought.
xV still more eftective tiller is the great cocoa-nut crab [Birgus
latro), one of the largest of shore Crustacea. It is chiefly noc-
turnal in its habits, and is not so often seen as the others. It
makes in the ground deep tunnels, larger than rabbit burrows,
lined for warmth (?) with cocoa-nut fibre. It has a habit of
climbing the cocoa-nut palms, but whether to take the air or
for temporary lodging is doubtful ; it does not rob the trees,
however, as has been charged against it, since it feeds only on
fruits that have fallen. One of its pincer- claws is developed
into an organ of extraordinary power, capable, when the creature
is enraged, of breaking a cocoa-nut shell or a man's limb. 1 he
inner edges of the claw are armed with a series of white
enamelled denticulations whose resemblance to teeth is
singularly close, even to the irregular scarlet line below them
which might pass for gums. The Birgus feeds on the nuts
almost exclusively, using its great claw to denude the fruit of
the husk surrounding it, and to get at the eye of the nut, whicli
it has learned is the only easy gateway to the interior.

Of the three eye-spots seen at the end of a cocoa-nut only
one permits an easy entrance. Tiie Binjiis does not waste its
energies in denuding the whole nut, and it never denudes the
wrong end. Having pierced the proper eye with one of its
spindle ambulatory legs, it rotates the nut round it till the
orifice is large enough to permit the insertion of its great claw
to break up the shell and triturate its contents, whoso particles
it then carries to its mouth by means of its other and smaller
cheliferous foot.

Frcmi this nutritious diet it accumulates beneath its tail
a store of fat, which dissolves by heat into a rich yellow oil, of
which a large specimen will often yield as much as two pints.
Thickened in the sun, it forms an excellent substitute for
butter in all its uses. I discovered it to be a valuable pre-
serving lubricant for guns and steel instruments ; and only
when a small bottle of it, which I had had for two years, was

28 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

iinished, did I fully realise what a precious anti-corrosive in
these humid regions I had lost.

The Birgus, though belonging to a water-living family,
spends the greater part of its time on the land, and Professor
Semper* has discovered that, following on its change of habit,
a portion of the gill-cavities of this singular crustacean have
become modified into an organ for breathing air — " into a true
lung," in fact.

Not less interesting than the marine, was the terrestrial life
of these lonely isles. Mr. Darwin's famous visit was made
about eleven years after their colonisation. More than half a
century more had elapsed till I landed there. In 1836 Mr.
Darwin gathered some twenty-two species of flowering plants.
On comparing the list (at the end of this Part) of the plants
collected or identified on the atoll by me with Professor Hens-
low's of those collected by Mr. Darwin, it will be observed that
considerable additions have been made to its flora. It is not
improbable, however, that a few of those not enumerated by
Professor Henslow may have been overlooked by Darwin during
the occupied days of the Beagle s short stay. Some are of more
recent introduction, and are due with little doubt to the
accidents of human inter-communication, while others have
been intentionally introduced. Direct intercourse has princi-
pally been with Java, Mauritius, and India, and occasionally
with Australia, by means of horse-laden vessels calling for
water. The greater part of the indigenous vegetation consists,
as Mr. Darwin has pointed out, of plants common to Australia
and Timor ; and it is certainly these we should most expect to
find here, as the ocean currents which wash the shores of the
atoll by running westward from Australian seas, and sweeping
round north-eastward in the Indian Ocean towards Sumatra
and Java, bring it nearer to Australia and the eastern part of
the Archipelago than to its geographically closer neighbours.
Thus by slow degrees and after many a failure have the ocean
streams succeeded in clothing this lone speck with verdure.

When first occupied the islands were covered abundantly
with iron-wood {Cordia) and Pemphis acidula, as well as cocoa
palms. Accidental fires, however, both on North Keeling

* Cf. ' The Natural Conditions of Existence as the)- affect Animal Life,' by
Karl Semper. International Series ; p. 193. Kegau Paul & Co. 1881.

7.V THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 29

(fifteen miles distant) and on the south islands, destroyed nearly
all the iron-wood forests, the most valuable timber the colonists
possessed. This tree grows often with a most curious arching
habit, and as the name they have given it indicates, its timber
is very durable, I saw a trunk on one of the islets which after an
exposure of over forty years was in every part perfectly sound ;
and a beam whose natural curve fitted without artificial bend-
ino; the double arch of the ribs of a schooner of 200 tons buildino:
on the stocks of the island. The vegetation of the islands is
now almost entirely cocoa-nut trees.

The history of this commonest member of its family might
occupy a long and interesting chapter, if space permitted.
Few, perhaps, know it better than Mr. Ross ; and while enjoy-
ing the grateful shade and the delicious beverage that its
fruits supply, I passed many a pleasant half hour in listening
to his accounts of its growth and habits. As a rule it is a
branchless palm, but on West Island he took me to see its rare
occurrence as a branching tree, which, instead of fruiting spikes,
invariably produccsd persistent branches crowned with a bunch
of leaves — adding to the beauty of the already graceful j)alm.

Most nuts, as is well known, contain, on opening them, only
one ovary cavity, but, as the three eye-spots indicate, all nuts
ought to have, were they not naturally suppressed, three of these.
Many of the Keeling palms produce not only their full com-
plement of three compartments, but, what is more surprising,
some have as many as eight and even fourteen. Such nuts
produce palms with a common root, but with as many stems as
they have cells. Under favourable conditions the cocoa-nut
can produce its first fruit within four years from the fall of
the seed nut from its parent tree, while it can go on for an
unknown period throwing out every month a new fruit spike
bearing from seven to fourteen nuts, which require from eight
to thirteen months to ripen.

The i)ahns in tiie centre of the islets grow to a greater height
— some of them to 120 feet, — on account of the deeper soil and
more abundant supply of fresh water, than those along the
shores, but the oil-producing capacity of their fruit is. not,
however, greater. j\Iore oil is obtained from nuts which have
formed during the early part, and ripened during tlic later
months of the year. Mr. Koss assured me that during every
4

00 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

full moon, many of the fruits exposed fully to its rays
are blighted, the pulp becoming puckered and shrunk. Sun-
stroke, he said, was also very common ; but in this case the
affected nut shrivels up, and when it is opened only a withered
embryo is found inside.

I searched for the two trees seen, but not obtained by Mr.
Darwin, as mentioned in his ' Voyage.' Of the one " of great
height on West Island " I would have secured specimens but
for an unfortunate discharge by a twig of Mr. Ross's gun,
resulting in a severe and painful wound to his hand (happily
not more serious than a bad flesh wound), which necessitated
our return home, before we had succeeded. As it was the last
occasion I could visit the islet, I was unable certainly to iden-
tify the tree, although from the seeds which I obtained, I have
little doubt that it is a species of Pisom'a (probably P. inermis)
which is found in the Australian and Pacific islands. Its
seeds are spiny and glutinous, and, by adhering in great
numbers to their feathers, often prove fatal to the herons that
nest in its summit. As many sea-fowl have almost a cosmo-
politan distribution, it is easy to perceive how widely this tree
might be disseminated by the birds that roost on it.

Mr. Darwin records that he took pains to collect every kind
of insect he saw. Exclusive of spiders, which were numerous,
thirteen species were found by him. A list of all those col-
lected or seen by me would far outrun Mr. Darwin's, showing
that by some means or other species are still finding their way
to this distant spot. Unfortunately, this collection was destroyed
on my way back to Java, and cannot be now named ; but few, if
any, of the species were referable to Australian, Timorese or
East Archipelago forms, so that the origin of the fauna is
evidently different from that of the flora of the atoll, and is
doubtless due to many chance passengers, that half a century of
the coming and going of ships has brought as stowaways and
landed unknowinglv ; now an adherinjr cluster of eofffs, now a
gravid female, or perchance a mated couple. Erom the testi-
mony of Mr. Ross, whom I have found a most accurate observer,
the cyclones of 1863 and of 1876 added, if not new species, at
least a host of new individuals to the Keeling fauna.

Among CoJeoptera Mr. Darwin mentions only one small
Elater ; while I observed hosts of small Melolonthidm (genus

7.V THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 31

Serica) and Rutelidm (genus Anomala), whose presence, I am
told, had been noted in abundance for only a few years previons
to my visit. I saw them frequenting almost every open flower,
towards which they were performing the kind fertilising office
usually done by bees, whose place they seemed to take. Of
Ortlioptera, besides the ubiquitous cockroach {Blatta orientalis),
there were a few Acrididae, and the common locust, which
was found in increased numbers after the cyclone. The
Hemiptera were represented by several species.

Of Neuroptera, white ants had spread their baneful hordes to
most of the islands; whWeClirysopa /n?J0^rtfa and dragon-flies were
very plentiful. Immediately after the cyclone the surftice of the
water was observed to be densely strewn with broken bodies of
the latter, as if, in its course, the wind had encountered a cloud
of them, and scattered their mangled remains as it travelled.
I did not succeed in collecting any true Hymenoptera, but ants
were abundant ; a minute Fire-ant (Camponotus), the common
Javan long-legged venomless species, and several black sorts
had become domiciled on the islands. Every trading vessel in
the tropics has its formicine fauna, and cannot help acting as a
transporter of all sorts of ants from one region of it to another.
Lepidoptera had perhaps increased more than any other family.
The Diopoea, so common in Java among the sensitive Mimosa,
and a minute Plume-moth sheltering among the red-wood {Pern-
phis acidula), and the Scievola, were perhaps the most common ;
the large Atlas-moth had become a settled resident here, as
well as several moderately large diurnal species with a habit
of pitching on the warm, bare ground and frequenting the
Gudavda and the Aschjn'as cuirassavica. Among several sorts
of flies, an Asihis, much like the large carnivorous fly common
in South Europe, was most conspicuous.

Tlie Mammalian fauna of the Keelings was an entirely
introduced one. A herd of deer on Horsburgh Island, was in-
teresting as being a cross between tlie Javan Eusa (Cerviis hip-
jxdctjyhiis) and the darker Sumutran species (Cervus eqiiinu>i).
Pigs ran semi-wild, and throve remarkably well on the broken
scraps of cocoa-nuts everywhere lying about in the woods.
Australian sheep, which fed on tlie PortnJaca oleracea, on
a species of grass, and on the tubers of an aroid which they
scraped up, did not seem to suffer much from the novel maritime

82 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

conditions under which they found themselves. The settlers
would be rendered supremely happy if such conditions would
by any means prove prejudicial to the rats — the sole living
creature unwelcome to their island home, — whose fecundity is
becoming appalling, for every vessel that calls serves to infuse
only fresh blood and vigour into the race.

Occasionally flying foxes {Pteropus) reach the atoll, but
hitherto in too exhausted a state to survive. Once a pair
arrived together; but both, unfortunately, soon died. It is
not improbable that some day, through the favourable cir-
cumstance of an unusually strong and healthy pair shaping
their course Keeling-wards, they may yet survive the arduous
journey, and the atoll find them some morning added to its
fauna. What has only just failed here, has doubtless suc-
ceeded in other oceanic islands, with different volant species.

Bird life was limited, but very interesting. Graceful
Noddies {Anou& sfolidiis) and Gannets (Su^a j^^^c^ii^'^^) were
in thousands ; and I had the satisfaction of watching what has
been over and over described, but was new to me, how their
industrious habits are taken advantage of by the swift-winged
Frigate-birds. Hiding in the lee of the cocoa-nut trees, the
Tachypetes would sally out on the successful fishers returning
in the evening, and j)erpetrate a vigorous assault on them
till they disgorged for their behoof at least a share of their
supper, which they caught in mid-air as it fell. Such feelings
of reprobation as I ought to have felt at their conduct was, I
fear, not very deep ; for the swoop after the falling spoil was so
elegant an evolution,, that, I confess,! always hoped that the poor
Noddy would give up as heavy a morsel as possible, in order to
necessitate a correspondingly eager dive after it. Refractory
Gannets were often seized by the tail by the Frigate-birds, and
treated to- a shake that rarely failed of successful results.
Fierce foes as they were in the air, on terra firma they roosted
near each other like the best of friends. They breed only on
North Keeling, and during that season the bare skin of the
throat is of a very rich scarlet colour. They are powerful
fliers, and can head against even a gale by taking in a reef in
their long wings, so as to expose only the greater quills to its
force.

The Tachypetes minor used to nest in the bushes of Femphis

IX THE CO COS-KEELING ISLANDS. 33

aciduJa on the South Keeling group ; but since the settle-
ment, constant interruption from the nut-gatherers has driven
it to breed in North Keeling. When brought up from the
nest in a state of semi-captivity, tliey can be trained to aid in
the capture of their fellows, wliich are much used as food by
the settlers.

A hunter wishing to shoot a few of these birds, throws out
within gunshot on the surface of the water a piece of attractive
bait, which the tame Frigate-bird swoops down, almost osten-
tatiously, time after time, to pick up. Several of its hungry
brethren, always hanging about, soon make their appearance
to struggle for a share ; after two or three gyrations, the eager
stranger swoops down for the tempting morsel, the decoy
soars out of reach, while his unfortunate dupe falls a victim.
If the others take flight, the same tactics will be followed
again and again by the decoy, who exhibits no alarm at the
report of the gun or the death throes of its companions.

The white, satin-feathered Tropic-bird (^Phaeton candidus)
was far from uncommon ; but being a very liigh flier it was
difficult to secure specimens of it. I was happy, nevertheless,
to be able to examine in the flesh one, at least, of these
beautiful creatures. It must possess wonderfully acute powers
of sight, for when sailing along at a great elevation, I have
seen it suddenly descend like an arrow, disappear below the
surface of the sea, and in a few moments soar up with its prey
in its mouth.

On West Island two species of Heron (Herodias nigripes, and
Deiniegrdta sacra) nested on the high Pisonia trees, and, as I
have said above, often died from the number of the glutinous
seeds which clogged their feathers. The Australian Night-
heron (Nycticorax caledonicus) builds on the same trees. This
is the first record of its occurrence so far to the west, and
ranging, as it does, from New Caledonia through the Moluc-
ctis and Timor, some ancestor of its own may, perchance,
have carried out thence the seeds of the trees on which it now
builds, just as its own young may be now distributing them
to distant isles.

The most engaging of all the birds was our little pilot, tho
])ure wliite Tern {Gijgis Candida) so chastely spoken of by 3[r.
Darwin. As the swallow is to us, such a pet is this bird to

34 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the settlers. It chooses a strange place to set its nest in, if
one may so speak of its brooding place. Its solitary e^g is
deposited on the leaf of a young cocoa-nut palm, at the time
when the leaf has rotated from its vertical position to one
nearly at right angles to the stem. The egg is laid in the
narrow angular gape between two leaflets on the summit of the
arch of the leaf, where it rests securely, without a scrap of nest,
in what one would think the most unsafe position possible, yet
defying the heaving and twisting of the leaves in the strongest
winds. The leaf, as in all palms, goes on drooping further and
further till it falls ; and among the settlers it is a subject of
keen betting, when they see a Tern sitting on an ominously
withered leaf, whether the young bird will be hatched or not
before the leaf falls. The result I am told has always been in
favour of the bird ; if the leaf fall in the afternoon, the Tern
will have escaped from the egg in the morning.

Not infrequently the " Tjoo-Tjooit " lays its egg on a ledge
ill the work-sheds of the island, but it never builds a nest.
The young one is fed incessantly by the parents with fishes,
which are brought in mouthfuls of generally six at a time,
arranged alternately head and tail. The old birds often feed
on the Papaya fruit, hovering on their wings all the while like
honeysuckers at a flower. This beautiful bird is to be found
only on the lone islands of the great oceans.

Besides the little Philippine Pail (Ballus J^)/i^7^2>pens/s), a
resident species often employed by the colonists to hatch out
their domestic fowls, which they do with care, a species of Snipe
and a Teal visit the islands every February and March in large
numbers, where they find a grateful rest in that annual voyage —
whence and whither I could not ascertain — that the changing
seasons, resistlessly impel them to. Jungle fowl, introduced
from Java, were breeding and throve well ; and lastly, I ob-
tained some nests of the Yellow Weaver-bird (Ploceus lujpox-
anthus.) Strange to say, it also comes often across the sea (most
probably from Java) to nest on this lone island. Mr. Eoss in-
formed me that it builds more frequently on North Keeling ;
neither parents nor brood, however, take up their residence,
but wend their way back whence they came, leaving their
elegant flask-shaped nests on the branches of the trees to
intimate that they have come and gone.

Harper flcBrothera KewYorki

7.V TEE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 35

CHAPTER III.

SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELIXG ISLANDS — continued.

Coral reef formation — Observations on the elevation or subsidence of the
Keeling atoll.

As the Keeling atoll was the reef most carefully examined and
described by Mr. Darwin, and that with which, in propounding
his famous theory of coral reefs, he has compared the others he
describes, I felt specially pleased at being able to go over
his own ground with his book in my hand, and gain a clearer
understanding of several points which I had found it difiScult
to comprehend.

Unfortunately the weather during my visit was not suffi-
ciently favourable to enable me to examine so closely as I
could have desired the corals of the outer margins or to make
the series of seaward soundings I had intended.

The first questions that present tbemselves to the traveller
in midst of his amazement on first reaching that peculiar
production of the warm seas — an island-speckled ring of coral
holding its own against the waves — are, How came it into being
here, Why of this singular form, and How does it continue to
exist ? ]\rr. Darwin was the first to attempt any far-reaching
solution of these difficult questions, applicable to coral forma-
tions over all the world. As true reef-building corals, it is well
known, can flourish only beneath a very limited depth — some
twenty fathoms — of water, a great apparent difficulty existed
" respecting the foundations on which these atolls are based,
from the immensity of tlu? spaces over which they are inter-
spersed and the apparent necessity for believing that they are
all supported on mountain summits, which, although rising very
near to tlie surface of the sea, in no one instance emerge above it.
To escape tliis latter most improbable admission, which implies
the existence of submarine chains of mountains of almost the

36 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

same height, extending over areas of many thousand square
miles, there is but one alternative ; namely, the prolonz/ed subsi-
dence of the foundations on which the atolls icere primarily hased,
together with the upward groidh of the reef-constructing corals'' *
Since ^h\ Darwin published this theory, several expeditions
expressly directed towards the examination of the floor of the
great oceans have taken place, prominent among them being
the United States Exploring Expedition, the Tuscarora, the
Blake, and our own Challenger voyages. These have put us in
possession of a large body of facts scarcely guessed at when
Mr. Darwin broke deep ground on this subject. Mr. Dana,
Professor Semper, Professor Agassiz and Mr. Murray of the
Challenger staff, have also specially made coral reefs a subject
of study. These three last named investigators have shown
that the explanation of coral reef formation may be in other
causes than those of elevation and subsidence. Great submarine
banks have been discovered, " covered by deposits of Pteropods
and Globigerina ooze serving as foundations for barrier reefs
and atolls, while their volcanic substratum has been completely
hidden." " The fact that these great submarine banks of
modern limestone lie in the very track of the great oceanic
currents sufficiently shows that these currents hold the immense
quantity of carbonate of lime needed in the growth of the
banks. . . . Mr. 3Iurray has shown that if the pelagic fauna
and flora extend . . ., as experiments seem conclusively to
prove, to a depth of 100 fathoms, we should have IG tons of
carbonate of lime for every square mile 100 fathoms deep.
But the greater the depth at which these plateaux begin to
form, the less rapid must be their formation. Deep water
itself being, as Professor Ditmar has recently shown,t a greater
solvent (not from, as has been held, its containing a much greater
proportion of free carbonic acid, but because of its depth,) than
shallower water, would dissolve up all the lighter and thinner
calcareous shells and debris; while in less deep water, the dead
siliceous and calcareous shells of Foraminifera, Sponges, Hy-
droids. Corals, IMoUusca, etc., would accumulate and build up
these plateaux," with a calcareous conglomerate. " Whenever

* 'The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs,' by Chaiks Darwir,
1842, pp. 146-7. The italics are the present author's.

t Official Report of the Scientific Results of the A'oyage of II.'M.S.
Challenger : Physics and Chemistry. Vol. 1.

IN TEE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS.

such plateaux have reached, on their windward side, the level
at which corals prosper, that is, some 120 feet below the surface,
these coral reefs spring u\) and flourish,"* and subsisting at a
greater depth than all others, a solid foundation is laid by the
close compactly growing Astr^ex ; then on their dense floor, in
v\hose myriad crannies, molluscs and all manner of marine
beings have sheltered, died and left their shells compacted by the
carbonate of lime let loose from their partial disintegration and
solution into a solid limestone conglomerate consisting of coral,
of shells and of all that may have fallen on it, which they have
raised layer above layer as near the surfece as they may, the
Brain-corals {Meandrina) and the Porites assume and continue
the upward task till they " in their turn reach the limit beyond
which they are forbidden by the laws of their nature to pass. . . .
But the coral wall continues its steady progress ; for here the
lighter kinds set in — the JMadrepores, the Millipores and a
great variety of Sea-Ferns, — and the reef is crowned at last with
a many-coloured shrubbery of low feathery growth." t

This is in its main outlines Murray's, Semper's, and Agassiz's
explanation of how a reef originates. Unfortunately for my
own satisfaction and guidance when examining the Keeling reef,
I had not read Professor Semper's views, and those of the other
two naturalists were not then published. I have now pictured
the reef as risen to almost the surface of the sea at ebb spring-
tides ; higher than this the coral polyps, which die when
exposed for a very short period only to the air and the sun,
cannot raise it ; but as corals flourish best in the battle of the
waves, which are better aerated and charged with the pelagic
life which sustains them, they can extend only seaward and
grow their fastest, checked solely where ocean currents scour too
fiercely past them. In this stage such a coral structure (as the
Keeling atoll) might be seen to bo roughly circular in form, —
observable also in all the raised islets of the grouj) as well as
in North Keeling, — doubtless by being beaten on all sides.
Travelling from the exterior margin of the reef inwards, coral
growth from less abundant sustenance is seen to bo less

* 'The Tortnga and Flori.la Ttccfsi,' by Alexander Agassiz, Mem. Am.
Soc. of Arts and Sc, vol. xi. p. 113.

t ' Flnriila Ueofs,' L. A'j;a^si7,, j\Iem. Mus. Comp. Zoology, p. -10. Proc.
li. S. Elinb., No. 107, 1880 : '" On the Structure and Origin of Coral Keefs and
Islands."

38 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

luxuriant and has grown to a less height than more externally,
and consequently we have a Lagoon, which sometimes, though
rarely, is enclosed by an unbroken ring of coral ; more com-
monly, however, (as in Keeling atoll) the reef is intersected by
several channels communicating between the lagoon and the
outer ocean. These channels are produced by many causes,
such as, swift currents interrupting the growth, decay of
the coral from local causes, and natural or accidental dis-
turbances.

On a subsiding or stationary foundation such a reef, raised
to the level of low-water mark, can never by any luxuriance of
its own growth rise above the water level and become a coral
island. Great storms, however, by breaking off blocks of its
living and ever seaward-growing margin, and throwing them
on the lagoonward portion of the reef, alone are able to
commence the raising above the surface of the ocean of
future islets, on which after the gradual accumulation of soil,
consisting of sand and the decaying flotsam and jetsam of the
ocean, and the germinating seeds that the winds, the sea currents,
or the birds of the air may chance to cast on its bosom, a
green clothing of vegetation inevitably grows up.

In traversing the Keeling atoll it seemed to be unaccount-
able how the interior, or lagoon margins of the islets, which
must necessarily have been thrown up above water at the
earliest stage of the existence of the atoll, still continue (on
the supposition that the atoll is subsiding) several feet
elevated above high-water level, and show no indication of the
water's encroachment. As a storm so violent as the cyclone
of 1876 was ca})able of piling the torn-off blocks of the reef-
floor — composed of a natural concrete of w'orn coral, shells,
and the hard parts of pelagic animals, imbedded in a solid
calcareous matrix — only a few yards over the higher edge of
the island, it is impossible for the lagoon margins, in some
places more than 800 yards distant from the sea, to be kept up
in elevation by the debris of the outer margin ; and the greatest
storms do not affect perceptibly or permanently the shores of
the lagoon.

Mr. Ross informed me that what Mr. Darwin, from the
undermining of cocoa-nut trees seen by him, supposed to be
sea encrcachments, was intermittently taking place during

IN THE COCOS-KEELINa ISLANDS. 39

gales round the lagoon shores ; and pointed out to me that
where, in such places, a portion of tlie land was washed out,
the same amount was replaced in some adjacent part of the
shore. He showed me also on the little islet, named in the
chart "Workhouse Island, a rather exposed corner which had
been completely washed away with all the trees on it, in the
cyclone of 1876, but which in January, 1878, had become to a
great extent replaced. A period going on for half a century
had elapsed since Mr. Darwin's observations, and the encroach-
ments of the sea on the land had, in my judgment at least, not
increased at all ; on the contrary, it struck me that the land
was gaining on the lagoon. This, too, was Mr. Boss's opinion,
from a thorough and intelligent knowledge of every part of
its coast and surface.

On "\\'est Island, in a short time the lagoonlet will be
entirely converted into dry land. At present it is nearly
filled up, and remains dry at all ordinary tides except on
two or three occasions a year, with a pure white chalk-like
sediment, the detritus of coral-attrition by the waves washed
in from the outside of the reef, where the sea is always more
or less turbid ; all along its coast also, as far as its south
corner, the West Island is gaining ground by the accumu-
lation of sediment. If subsidence were proceeding, this sedi-
ment could not rise above high-water level. In the centre
of Horsburgh Island, which is three-quarters of a mile in
breadth, the ground exhibits an unbroken solid conglomerato
surface not composed of the strewn debiis from storms;
and a lakelet of salt water containing no life, which occurs
in it, seems to be an old lagoon extremely shallow and nearly
obliterated. In Xorth Island also, 1.3 miles distant, as Mr.
Ross told me, the lagoon was rabidly filling up ; its entrance
passage has since our knowledge of it been always barred by
the reef. In all these islands, in sinking wells down for some
] 2 — 20 feet through the solid conglomerate of which all the
islands are composed, fresh water can be found. The only
exception is Direction Island, in w hich no fresh water has been
discovered, and which is entirely composed, as far as borings
have been made, of shingle debris such as is found along the
beach of the seaward margin.

Between Direction Island and Workhouse Island I observed

40 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

what seemed to me signs of recent elevation. At ebb tide
there the water was very shallow and quite warm to the hand,
and I noticed Ostrseidse, small Tridacnse and other shells all
dead where they grew, doubtless killed by exposure to the sun at
low tide and by the fresh water during heavy rains. Of these
tropical downpours, Darwin records one as having taken place
before his visit, and Mr. Ross told me that in 1866, there were
several months of such continuous rain that the fresh water
stood for several inches on the surface of the lagoon, causing the
death of large numbers of fish, and no doubt of corals also.

Completely surrounding this little islet was a thrown-up
beach of very white sand, quite different from that I saw
anywhere else on the atoll, composed entirely of the minute
shells of molluscs, Echini, and of crabs, with a small proportion
of coral debris, probably raised by the waves from the seaward
slope of the barrier, indicating, perhaps, a less abrupt descent
than has been supposed. Since its first occupation (by Koss
Primus) the lagoon has greatly filled up with coral patches and
sediment, as he could sail his vessel much farther up towards
South-east Island than now, and several boat channels cut as
indicated on the map have become quite obliterated. On the
east side of the atoll the islets are much smaller than at any
other part, and this may result if such an untoward circum-
stance as the irruption of poisoned water, such as I have
recorded above, were to occur at frequent intervals. It is
possible also that such a stream might issue frequently, if not
in great quantity, without being observed.

I incline to believe, therefore, that the Keeling reef
foundation has arisen as IMurray, Semper and Agassiz have
suggested ; but that its islets have been the result of the
combined action of storms and the slow elevation of the vol-
canically upheaved ocean floor, on which the reef is built.*

The ntoll offers to the marine biologist a rich mine that
would take not a few years of working to exhaust ; f to the

* An abstract of an exhaustive restmje and discussion by Dr. A. Geikie,
F.R.S., of the Coral Eief lheories^vill befoundin A^aiwre, Nov. 29 and Dec. G,
1883, of which the fidl text has just been published in the Proc. Phys. Soc.
Edin., vol. viii. (1884).

t I have elsewhere (Proc. R. O. S., March 1884) directed attention to ihe
admirable situation of this S]:ot for a Biological and Meteorological Station,
where it could be kept up at the most trifling cost.

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 41

philosopher and student of human nature not a little to reflect
on, as to the effect on the colonists of a life so isolated, so apart
from the active stimulus of rivalry, and the sharp incentives to
advancement born of public opinion and the intercourse of
fresh minds, and so distant from the cheering influence of
the warm sympathies of their fellow men; yet among whom,
at least, instead of symptoms of physical, mental or moral
degeneration — despite the belief of Mr. Dana * that, " notwith-
standing all the products and all the attractions of a coral
island, even in its best condition, it is but a miserable place for
human development, physical, mental or moral," — he would
find continuous endeavour, industry and care crowned with
progress, and lives spent in contented happiness ; to myself
it had opened a field of study charged in every aspect with
all that was interesting and very much that was new.

On the Sth of February Mr. Ross brought me at last the
inevitable news that the Mabel was a^jain freighted Avith her
cargo of nuts and oil, and would sail next day for Batavia,
coupled, however, with a warm invitation to wait till her next
return from Batavia, and visit in the meantime the North
Keelings. Every consideration urged me to accept, but it
was with liveliest regret that I found it impossible to do so.
The recollection of its pleasures and its owner's Highland-
chieftain-like hospitality (born of his blood) will ever make
the Keeling atoll a memory to dwell on.

On the 9th we set sail, and falling in a few days later with
the steadily blowing Monsoon wind we scudded gaily along
before it, and anchored in Batavia on the 16th, accomplishing
in a week what it liad taken us thirty days to sail over on our
outward vovage.

* Dana, ' Corals and Coral Islands,' p. 24.G.

42 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

APPENDIX TO PAKT I.

Note.— J., represents Java; T., Timor; T-L., Timor-luut; Sum., Sumatra;
T. d'A., Tristan d'Acunlia. The plants obtained by IMr. Durwiu were described
by Rev. J. S. Henslow iu Ann. Nat, Hist., vol. i. p. 337.

I.— List of the Keeling Atoll Plants. {-^i,_ Dar°^ir''xhe^Author.

AnonaceiE.
Anoiia reticulata, L. .. .. .. .. .. — X

Cnici/ene.
Sinapis juncea, L. Aru. .. .. .. .. .. — X

Cajjparidacex.
Gynandropsis, sp. Prob. cultivated. .. .. .. — X

Malvacece.

Hib'scus tiliaceus, L. T, J., Pacf. Ids. .. .. X X

Hibiscus Kosa-siiiensis, I>. Introduced. .. .. — X

Sida carpinifolia, L. fil. Bladeira. Mauritius. . . — X

Tiliacex.
Tri um fet ta procumbens, Forsf. .. .. .. X X

Lerjuminosse.
Acacia farnesiana, TF. T.
Poinciana pidciierrima, L. Introduced
Guilandina Uouduc, .42Y. T.

Rosace a\
Eriobotrya, sp. Cultivated.
Kosa ceiitifoliu, L. Cultivated.

Mijrtacex.
Guava, spp. Cultivated. .. .. ,. ,. — X

Liitlirucex.
Pemphis aciduia, -Fors^ T. .. .. .. .. x X

Papmjacex.
Carica papaya, L. .. .. .. ,. .. — x

Crassulacex.
Bryophy Hum calycinum, /SaZ/st. .. .. .. — X

rortulacex.
Portulaca oleracea, Z. T.-L. .. .. .. x X

Ruhiacex.
Guettarda speciosa, i. T. ., ,. .. .. x X

Moriuda citrifolia, Z. T. ,. .. .. .. — X

X

X

—

X

X

X

X

—

X

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLA*NDS 43

Compositx.
Sonclius oleraceus, Z. J., Sum., T. d'A. -. .. — X

Apocynacae.
Vinca rosea, L. .. .. .. .. .. . . — X

Ocbrosia parvitiora, /?e»s?. .. .. .. •• X X

Goodenovieae.
Scsevola Koenigii, Vald. T. .. .. .. .. X X

Asclepiadiaceas.
Asclepias curassavica, i. J. .. .. .. .. — X

Bignomaccx.
Oroxylum indicum, Vetd. Cultivated. .. .. — X

Boraginex.
Cordia sulicordata, iain. T., T-L., Austr. .... X X

Tourueibrtia argeutea, L. T., W. lud. .. .. X X

Solanacex.
Physalis peruviana, L. ., ,. .. .. .. — X

Acantliacex.
Dicliptera Burnianni, JVees, i-ar. J., T. .. .. X X

Lahiatm,
Leonurus sibiricus, Z. .. .. .. .... — X

Verhenacex.
Stachytarpheta indica, Z. Tiop. Asia. .. .. — X

Isyclaginesn.
Boeiliavia diffusa, W , var. fi, var. 7, Uensl. T. .. X X

Fisouia iiicnuis (^y), i'o/«<. Australia. .. .. X X

Amaranthacex.
Acliyrauthes argentea, Lam , var. villosior. T. . . X X

Vrticaeex.
TJrera Gaudic'haudiana, Hensl. ,, .. .. .. X X

Euphorhiacex.
Ricinus communis, Z. Cultivated. .. .. .. — X

Aleurites Moluccaua, W. (A. S. Kt>ati:ig.)

Graminem.

Panicura sanguinale, Lin. var. T. .. .. .. X X

Stenotajihrum lej)t.uroide, Ucnd. .. .. .. X —

Tjej)turus repuiis. Ford. T. . . . . . . . . X X

Erasrostis aiuaViilis, L. T, .. .. .... — X

Fimbristylis glomeratus, i\ee«. .. .. .. .. — X

Pidmacex.
Co3os uucifora, L., var. Bali. (A S. Keating.) ..X X

Bandanaccx.
Pandanus, sp. (Ilolman.) .. .. .... —

Musci.
Hypnum rufesccns, 2/oo/i. .. .. .. .. X

Fungi.
Polyporus luri lus .... X

44 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

II. — List fif the Birds of the Keeling Islands.

Ploceua.liypoxanthus, migrant, nesting in North and South Keeling.

Padda orizivora, in captivity.

Gallus bangkiva, introduced.

Heiodias nigripes, nesting on the Pisonia trees.

Demigretta sacra, nesting oti tlie Pisonia trees.

Nycticorax caledonicus. Here found for tiie first time west of Timor.

Totanus canescens, migrant.

Scolopax rusticola, migiant.

Rallus phiiippensis ; found in great abundance ; brings up domestic chicks,

when her own eggs l.ave been changed lor those of fowls or ducks.
Anas sp., migrant.
Anous stolidus.
Sula piscatrix.
Tachypetes minor.
Phaelon Candidas.
Gygis Candida.

III. — List of Corals collected in the Keeling Islands. Determined by
S. U. Ridley, M.A., F.L.S., and J. J. Quelch, I3.Sc.

Ilijdrocnralh'mf.

MiUepora vcrruco.sa, Mll-F.d. <t Haime. Outside the reef,
forskiili, Mil.-Ed. & Haiuie. Inside the reef.
Madreporaria.

Madrepoia scandens, Klaz.

orbipora, Dana var. Inside tlie reef.
Anacropora, Eidley, cliaractLriscd as follows : — *

ANACROPORA.f

Madreporidai of ramose habit. Axis and apex of branches formed by
a spongy coenenchyma. New calicles formed centripetally, i.e. from the
base towards the apex ; no calicle of any kind at the apex. Calicles
equally distributed all round stem and branches, with a tendency to an
arrangement in longitudinal series. Septal system well developed, com-
prising two cycles of six septa each, two (approximately upper and lower)
primaries being larger than the foijr lateral primaries.

Ohs. — Anacropora is based on the new species A. forbesi, described
below, and on some forms which occur in the Challenger collection of
reef-corals, to be hereafter described by Mr. J. J. Quelch, of the Natural-
History Museum ; I have had tlie advantage of Prof. Duncan's and Mr.
Quelch's opinions on this important form, opinions which have been freely
and kindly given. The general growth and other characters given above
are essentially the same in all the species. In all the growth is low, the
branches tending to form inosculations between each other ; the stem and
branches are cylindrical, and no distinct tubular calicles are formed.

From Madrepora this genus differs markedly in the centripetal
production of the calicles, by which the youngest calicles are always the
uppermost. From the subgenus Isopora, Studtr (see he. inf. cit.), it differs
in the same point, as well as in its slender dendroid growth ; but the first;
distinction is not so marked at first sight, since the peculiar growth of
Isopora almost necessitates the absence of a distinct apical calicle, but (as

* Extracted from Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist., April 1881, p. 2S5, pi. xi._
t From dc, privative particle, &kdo5, summit, iropos, passage or pore ; in allusion
to the absence of pores from the euds of the branches.

IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 45

stated loc. cit) the mnrle of gemmation is centrifugal in Isopora, as in
Madrepora, s. str. Other points distinguishing Anacropora from most
species of Madrepora are the formation of the axis of the branches by a
spongy ccBuenchyma, whereas in many (if not all) ]Madre])orfB this, in
accordance with the centrifugal habit of budding, is occupied to a greater
or less distance from the ends of the branches by the downward prolon-
gations of the septa and the interseptal spaces of the apical calicle. The
rudimentary condition of the external part of the calicle distinguishes
Anacropora; for althougli it is commonly found (I refer to the sunk
calicles occurring in so many species between the prolonged tubular or
nariform ones) in some, it is never, so far as my knowledge extends, found
in all the calicles in any Madrepora.

Although in its general appearance it differs remarkalily from even
the branched species of Montipora, yet the structural differences which
separate Anacropora from this genus are very far less distinctive than
those Avhich separate it from Madrepora. In the first place, in spite of
its external resemblance to Madrepora, it has the same system of calicular
budding (viz. centripetal, from the distal coenencliyma) which we find
well developed in the ramose ]\Iontipora ; the trabecular structure and the
two-cycled arrangement of the septa is the same in both genera. On the
other hand, whereas in Anacropora there is always an undifferentiated
coenenchymal apex, devoid of calicle^, to the branches, in Montipoi'a this
apex appears always to bear at least one calicle on its surface. In Anacro-
pora the calicles are always rather distant and tend to form lines, and are
slightly raised above the surface, forming low hill-like eminences, whereas
in the ramose Montipora (cf/. digitata, Dana, divaricata and superficialis,
7>/vtr/i7e»;o/(;/), which on the whole most clo?ely approach Anacropora, the
calicles open flush with the surface, are crowded indif^criminately.and no
linear arrangement is apparent. In Montipora foliosa, it is true, the
calicles, especially on the ])()sterior aspect of the corallum, are elevated in
a similar manner; but the foliate growth and the monticular /«^e/--cali-
oular eminences of tlie upper surface seem to remove this si)ecies far from
the ramose jMontiporaj. it seems to me not improbable that, for the
reasons I have inilicated, these ramose forms may have to be sej^arated
from the foliate and massive species of Montipora.

The relations of Anacrojiora may be thus sliortly stated : — Anacropora
has the' general growth of Madrepora, but the manner of budding of
Montipora.

The following is a description of the single species referable to this
genus whicli I am able to describe; owing to the interest attaching to the
type, I have allowed myself to give its characters at full length : —

AxACRoroRA FORnr.si, liidJey.

Corallum branching frequently, dichotomously, occasionally snbtri-
chotomously; branches given off in succession in a subspiral manner,
tlie planes of successive bifurcations varying from about 30^ to 10U° with
regard to each other; angle between brandies couii)Osing bifurcation 80^
to KXr. Stem and branches sliglitly curved, the apical branches more
strongly so, cylindrical, exce|)t the terminal branches, which tend to curve
outw'ards mid tajier gradually to points ; diameter, inain axes G-7 millim.,
intermediate and terminal branches about 4 millim., greatest length
lietween bifurcations of main l)ranches about 30 millim., terminal twigs
25 millim. long. Calicles arranged more or less detinitely, for the most
part in .scries which follow ai)i»roximately the longitudinal axis of the
stem and branches, the calicles of cue series alternating with those of tho

5

46 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

adjacent series; series about '2 millim. apart, calicles about 2 to 2-5
rni'llim. apart in the series. Cilicle-i forming, everywhere but on the tips
of the branches, low rounded elevations, by the gradual rising of the
surface towards their inferior margins to a height of •25 to "7 millim.,
and occasionally by the similar but very slight elevation of their superior
margins. Calicles orbicular, looking upwards; orifice of adult calicles
•5 to -1 millim. in diameter ; on tlie tips of the branches they oj^en on
the level of the surface of the corallum, are more or less imperfectly
defined from the surrounding loose coenenchyma, and measure about -23
to '4 miilim. in diameter. Septa trabecular, consisting of vertical series
of horizontal pointed projections from the wal! of the calicle, beginning just
below its margin, distinct. Primaries about -25 millim. in length in full-
grown calicles, comprising two main, opposite ones, variously placed {i.e.
from parallel to the long axis to at an angle of 45'^ with the same), which
converge towards the bottom of the calicle, where they meet and form a
vertical plate ; the other primaries are slightly smaller and do not meet
below. Secondaries varying from about half the diameter of primaries to
mere points on the side of the calicle ; the secondary septum between the
two lateral primaries is sometimes wanting.

—Corallum slightly vermiculate, always covered by minute points at
surface (at apex looser, very porous) ; the outer one-quarter of diameter
(except at apex, formed of a denser tissue, in which the calcareous
traboculse exceed in diameter the sjiaces between them ; the central one-
half of the diameter {viz. usually about 2 millim.), consisting of a loose
tissue, in which the calcareous bars are only about half the diameter
of the intervening spaces ; the meshes of this tissue (as seen in transverse
section of a branch) elongate towards margin, smaller and relatively
shorter at centre. Apices of branches, to a distance of from 2-8 millim.
from the ends, formed of the looser axial coenenchyma, and carrying
more or less rudimentary calicles, which are at least 1 millim. from all
other calicles in the same longitudinal series.

Hah. Keeling Islands, Indian Ocean; deeper water inside reef.

Eepresented by a single colony and a detached branch, whicli has
lived independently after its fracture from the parent specimen.*
They were collected and presented to the British Museum by Mr. H. 0.
Forbes, F.Z.S. &c., who has already {Proc. Roy. Oeogr. Soc, Eec. 1879)
described these islands, and with whose name I have much pleasure in
associating this new type. The chief colony measures 83 millim. (3i
inches) in height, 100 millim. (4 inches) in greatest breadth, and 55 millim.
(2r ilichcs) from front to back; the detached branch, which bifurcates
three times, was about GO millim. long when alive. Parts of the corallum,
owing either to an evanescent pigment or to traces of animal matter, I ave
a most delicate pink tint.

Some interesting points are brought out by the detached branch ; this
occurs unrooted, but obviously had been broken off from the colony
while yet alive, and lived siibsequently free. As commonly happens in
such cases, the fractured surface has healed over ; but in this case the
new material is not a continuation of the superficial ccenenchyma of the
adjacent side over the stump, but the prolongation outwards of the loose
central ccenenchyma which has developed on itself five or six young
calicles. Here also the law of centripetal gemmation asserts itself, these
calicles occurring on the sides of a central cone of loose coenenchyma, of

* See Moseley's ' Notes by a naturalist on ChaUcnrjer.' " Some specimens
of this (Forites) species were unattached, though living, being in the form of
rounded mnsses, entirely covered with living polyiis . . . and I suppose from
time to time rolled over by the waves " : p. 344. [H. O. F.]

IN TEE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 47

which the apex, 1 millim. long, is unclifferentiatGcl and bears no calicles.
The same law is followed in the process of repair exhibited by a broken
stnrap of a branch on the larger specimen. The wide angle of bifurcation
of the branches causes the colony to assume a low decunibent form, and
bringing, as it does, neiglibouring branches into juxtaposition, gives rise
1o anastomoses ; the branching in various planes gives it a broad top.

Ediir.opora lamellosn, Enp.

Moutipora digitata, Dana. Inside tlie rtef.

sp. near expaiisa, Dana.
Porites laivis, Dana. (V) Outside tlie reef.
Favonia lata, Dana. Inside the reef.
Pocillopora brovicornis. Lam. Inside tlie reef,
elegaui (?) Dana. Outside the reef.

PART II.

IN JAVA.

CHAPTER I.

SOJOUEN AT GENTEXG IN BANTAM.

On the road — The Sundanese language — Every man a naturalist — Bird-life at
Genteng — "Weaver-birds' nests — A native rural bazaar — Forest devastation
— Geological structure of the district — A wonderful case of mimicry in a
spider.

On my return to Javn from the Keeling Islands, I had the
good fortune to meet in Batavia with a countryman, Mr.
Alexander Fraser, one of the few freeholders of land in Java,
who though just starting for England, kindly offered me the
privilege of collecting over his vast property situated in the
western province of Bantam, and the hospitality of his house if I
should choose to stay there. This offer I was only too pleased
to accept, in order, while still within reach of civilisation, to
become acquainted witli, and gain some practical experience
of, the necessities and modes of tropical life and camping, of
which the novitiate traveller has such crude ideas — for collect-
ing among tropical vegetation is very different from the ideas
formed of it from like operations conducted amidst the sparse
woods of our temperate climate ; — but principally to isolate
myself from all European-speaking people for the purpose of
acquiring, with tlu; aid of a few books and chiefly with my
native servants, the Malay language as rapidly as possible.
In addition, the late Dr. Scheffer, the kind Director of the
Botanical Gardens in Buitenzorg, had recommended to me
Bantam as a profitable and by no means, botanically at least,
well investigated province to visit.

Having hired a cou[)le of cahars — a sort of spring-cart with
one horse, the general mode of conveyance when one travels as
I was about to do, off the main roads, — one for myself and one
for my baggage, I left Batavia at sunrise on the I'Jth of 3[arch,
by the western road along the low northern shore lands towards

62 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

Kangkas-betong, by the famous highway which Dandels, one
of the most energetic and far-seeing of all the early Governors-
General of the Dutch Indies, constructed along the whole
length of the island, and which has proved one of its greatest
benefits and colonizers. To expedite the journeys of their
various officials round their districts, at every five or six miles
stable stations have been erected by the Government, where
horses are changed, and which private travellers can obtain
permission to make use of on payment of small mileage dues.

All along the road we passed little sign-posts with Arabic
inscriptions indicating how many yards of the road on each side
of them must be kept in repair by the various neighbouring
villages. As the keeping of the roads is most strenuously
enforced, they are never out of condition, and are a pleasure to
drive over. Here and there it has been impossible to bridge
the larger rivers in steep defiles where the stream is deep and
swift, and these are crossed in large j)i<^turesque rafts which
can accommodate horse and carriage and quite a little crowd
of people at once. These rafts, by sliding on rattan rings
along two strong cables of thick rattan canes securely fixed to
both banks, are floated over by the ferrymen by hand-over-
hand traction on these cables.

When on the road the dress of the Sundanese, especially of
the women and children, is invariably bright coloured calicoes,
clean and newly ironed, and their head-covering is the gaily
lacquered bamboo hats for whose manufacture they are famous.
The burdens of the men, whatever they may consist of, are
made up in neat and tastefully arranged bundles, carried
always on the shoulders, suspended at the ends of a bamboo —
and it is amazing what a weight these thick-set stout fellows
can carry in this way. Such a ferry, in the sunlight, with a
background of green, wooded slopes, presents therefore always
a gay scene and forms quite an interesting break in the drive.

The country throughout was rather tame, being quite stripped
of forest, but full of interest, as the land, being entirely under
rice cultivation, was laid out in the most beautiful system of
terraces. The province of Bantam is densely populated, and
scarcely a portion of uncultivated land was to be observed.
As Mr. Wallace in his ' Malay Archipelago,' has fully
described, this method, introduced by the Hindus on their

7iV^ JAVA. 53

invasion of Java, has attained a wonderful development
throughout the whole of the lowlands in the western part of
the island. In these saicahs, as the natives call their wet rice
fields, the grain is cultivated in small square borders separated
by green, grass-ridged banks, kept constantly flooded with
water brought by a wonderful network of channels in which
an intricate system of sluices or valves distributes or cuts
off its flow wlierever desired. The entire face of such low
hills as have a gentle slope, are thus laid out down to their
bases, and at the season when the young corn is in its fresh
green leaf the country is extremely pretty.

Mr. Fraser's estate-house at Tjikandi-Udik, which I reached
late in the evening, I found to stand amid a rich and entirely
cultivated country, but as regards my pursuits a barren terri-
tory. After enjoying for a few days the hospitality of the
Administrator I moved south-westward to Genteng in the
hiirher reo-ion of Lebak, where I was told some forest was then
being felled.

Here I built a bamboo-hut in an open spot with an exhila-
rating look-out on the high mountains, and alone with my
Malay boys began my initiation into the language of the
country, and into the nomadic joyous life of a field naturalist.
It is a life full of tiresome shifts, discomforts, and short
commons ; but these are completely forgotten, and the days
seem never long enough amid that constant flash of delighted
surprise that accompanies the beholding for the first time
of boast or bird or thing unknown before, and the throb of
pleasure experienced, as each new morsel of knowledge amal-
jramates with one's self.

Between myself and my boyn for a time the most ludicrously
comprehended sign-language was carried on, till their speech,
whose sentences to my unaccustomed ears seemed com})osod of
but one continuous word of innumerable uncouth syllables,
began to shape itself into distinguishable elements, when to
my amazement, as if some obstruction had been suddenly re-
moved from my ears, I com] rehended them as if I had been
brought up among them. Before many weeks were over I
could converse in the Malay tongue with an amount of freedom
that surprised me.

The language of the district, that is, of the Sundancse them-

54 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

selves, tliougli containing many Javanese and Malay words, is
quite distinct from either. It is a coarser and rougher speech,
and it was some time before I managed to acquire it ; but I
found it to be — like broad Scotch in comparison with pure
English — one of great expressiveness.

As soon as I was able to follow their discourse with ease,
my daily talks with these men were a source of great pleasure
to me. I soon found out that in regard to every thing around
them, they were marvellously observant and intelligent. Not
one or two only, but every individual amongst them seemed
equally stored with natural history information. There was
not a single tree or plant or minute shrub, but they had a name
for, and could tell the full history of ; and not a note in the
forest but they knew from what throat it proceeded. Every
animal had a designation, not a mere meaningless designation,
but a truly binomial appellation as fixed and distinctive as in
our own system, differing only in the fact that their's was in
their own and not in a foreign language. Often enough this
designation has so close a resemblance and sound to Latin,
that it has been accepted by Western naturalists as if it had
been so. One of the liveliest and most obtrusive of the squirrels
in Java and Sumatra is a little red-furred creature called by
the natives tupai, and to distinguish it from its more arboreal
congeners they add, from its habit of frequenting branches
near the ground, the word tana (for earth) ; and Tupaia tana
is its accepted scientific term among European naturalists.

They liave unconsciously classified the various allied groups
into large comprehensive genera, in a way that shows an ac-
curacy of observation that is astonishing from this dull-
looking race. In this respect they excel far and away the
rural population of our own country, among whom without ex-
aggeration scarcely one man in a hundred is able to name one
tree from another, or describe the colour of its flower or fruit,
far less to name a tree from a portion indiscriminately shown
him. How acute is their observation is exemplified by their
name for the groujDs of true parasitic plants of the Lorantliacex
(or Misletoes), which are disseminated chiefly by being unob-
trusively dropped by birds in convenient clefts of trees,
they denominate as Tai hooroong (" birds' excreta ") ; while to
epiphytic plants they give a name that has almost the signi-

IN JAVA. 55

ficance of our own scientific term. The great group of the
Laurels, which so vary in flower and foliage as to be separated
off into many genera by botanists, are all designated by the one
name Euru, but they are differentiated by no fewer than sixty-
three different specific terms, in every instance indicating
some prominent distinguishing characteristic of flower, fruit or
timber ; and on examination, very few indeed of them turn out
not to belong to the Laurel family. Of oaks, Passan^g in their
tongue, they discriminate sixteen different species, commencing
their list with the one they consider most typical, just as we find
in our own catalogues of birds, among the Warblers for instance,
Cisticola cisticola representing the typical species, the Sunda-
nese say Passang betid, or "true oak," for what they consider
the oak of oaks. Among animals their system of classification
into genera is not carried so far ; but all the more distinctive
groups, especially those living in communities, and every
insect and bird, if in any way peculiar or wliere it can be mis-
taken for another, have each their own binomial appellation.

I was disappointed in finding that the forest about Genteng
was nearly all second growth, with scarcely any of what I was
principally in search of for my herbarium — specimens of the
primal trees. Birds, however, were more plentiful, and in the
avenue-like roads and paths, stretching for miles in the neigh-
bourhood, butterflies and other insects were very abundant,
but though interesting to me, and occasionally new to the
ornithology or entomology of the Malayan region, most of
them v.ere species well known to science. Amid an expanse
of low scrub in front of my door, on which the buffaloes from
the nei^hbourinfr villa2:es wandered more at their own will
than directed by their young herds, stood within gunsliot of
my verandah table several tall trees, from which, frequented as
they were at all hours of the day by different kinds of birds, I
was constantly able to add with great ease to my collection,
and to observe the habits of many species that it would have
been difficult otherwise to see.

I never tired of watching the friendly relation between the
Buffalo-birds {Sturnopastor ialla and S. melanopterus) and
their bovine hosts. They used to collect in impatient flocks
about the hour of the return of the herd to their feeding
grounds from the wallowing holes, whither in the heat of the

56 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

day they retired ; and as soon as the cattle arrived they
would alig-ht on their backs in crowds, to the evident satis-
faction of the oxen, which they relieved of troublesome parasites.
Although the herd-boys commonly lay dozing at full length
on the buffaloes' backs, the birds seemed to know that they
were quite safe, and would even alight on the bare backs
of the sleepers, and from that hop on to the haunches of the
quadruped ; and when the herds were driven away at nightfall
the Sturnopastors flew off to the forest.

One of the rarer birds obtained here was the fine red-
crested Woodpecker {Mighjptes tristis), which much resembles
the M. gramminithorax of Malherbe, which is not found in
Java, while the former, distinguished by its uniform black
breast and abdomen, is confined to this island.* In the
gloaming, frequenting leafless branches, I often saw the
minute Butterfly Ha\Ak (Microh'erax fringiUarius), not so
large as a shrike, darting after grasshoppers, moths and late-
flying butterflies. Among the songsters that made them-
selves more noticeable by frequenting the isolated trees near
my house, were the golden Oriole [Oriolus maculatus) and
the yellow crowned Bulbul (Trachycomiis ochrocephalus),
which late in the evenings filled the whole neighbourhood
with their melodious, clear, bell-like notes ; while two members
of the Cuckoo family, the " Doodoot " {Fihinococcyx curvirostris)
and the " Boot " {B. javanensis) used to utter their curious
bleating call in the low jungle behind, often breaking with their
weird modulations the stillness of the midnight. In a neigh-
bouring clump of canes a colony of Yellow Weaver-birds
(Ploceiis hypoxanthus) had thickly hung their nests. Each nest
was artfully suspended between the interlacing leaf-stems of one
or two reeds in a most skilful way, to secure as much as possible
the safety of their eggs during the waving of the reeds in the
wind. These nests were not made fast to, but strung lightly
on the leaves, sometimes passed through the fork of another
leaf to form a pulle}'-, so as to permit, by sliding along in the
swaying of the grass, of their retaining their vertical position,
which they must do, weighted as they are by a layer of clay in
the bottom of the nests, I noticed that many of them were

' Cf. Hargitt, ' Ibis,' 188+, pp. 190, 191 ; and Nicholson, op. cit, 1879, 16.

IN JA VA. •

57

deserted from the breaking of one or more of their eggs, after
incubation Lad progressed some way ; in others, where there
was only one chick," there was often one Qg^ which had been
cracked and become dried np, so that even with all their
acute architectural devices the wind appears to wreck the
hopes of the little builders.

A\ hat can be the use of the mud in the Weaver-birds' nests
has often been discussed. Mr. E. L. Layartl, the accurate

TWO FORMS OF THE NEST OF THE WEAVER BIRD.

observer and well-known ornithologist, has suggested * " that
these lumps of mud \\ero used as scrapers on which to clean
the birds' bills "; but if in the nests I found here they were
used for this purpose, it must have been only at the commence-
ment of their task, for the layer of mud would be quite con-
cealed at an early stage of their nest-ljuilding. I am more
inclined to the belief that they are to weight and balance
the nest, from having found loose among the lowr stems
unfinished portions, wliich were evidently the foundations of
* Xattire, Dec. 1879.

58 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

nests, which had been blown down before being properly-
secured., or were they, perhaps, abandoned unsuccessful first
attempts ? They had the exact shape of tiny key baskets, such
as are used by housewives, one end being weighted with a layer
of clay. I was also struck by the fact that different indi-
viduals had adopted different forms of nests, which, though
agreeing fundamentally, exhibited considerable variation.

The bulk of them were of the
retort shape, set with a long-
necked orifice hanging down-
ward, but a considerable number,
of the progressionist party per-
haps, had inaugurated a new

ABANDONED NEST-FouNDAT.ox. ^'^shiou by invcrtiug thc rctort

and shortening the neck, giving
the doorway an upward and forward entrance, which, if more
enticing to depredators, may perhaps be less awkward to
the owners. I much regret that I have no note as to the
position of the clay in this new form ; for what was previously
the bottom of the nest had become a dome over the bird, while
its eggs were laid in what would correspond in the older pattern
with the upper curve of the neck of the retort, so that if my
belief is correct that the use of the clay is to retain the nest
in its vertical position, it ought to be found occupying a
corresponding site in the new structure. It is possible, however,
tliat the deviation from the ancestral pattern may result from
an unequal distribution of clay during the laying of the
foundation of the nest, causinj; it to become reversed without
diverting tiie bird's purpose from completing its work as best
it could, under the altered conditions.

One of the bird-cries that early attract attention is
the reiterated, unvaried call of the Bell-birds (Megala^minse),
poured forth in long stretches from the top of some high
tree, where, from their plumage according so well with
the varied colours of the vegetation, they can select a perch
even in a prominent branch without fear of discovery. I
obtained five different species of these birds, wliich belong to
one of the most varied and beautiful-plumaged families, and of
which some idea may be obtained by turning over the pages of
Marshall's splendid monograph of the group.

IN JAVA. 59

A stream which ran near my house was crossed by one of
those native-made bamboo bridges, which spaciously housed
and thatched over, have such a neat and attractive look about
them. Every Sunday morning the district market was held
under it, which from an early hour presented quite a gay and
busy scene. I never missed, if I could, an opportunity of
visiting these Passars, as 1 found them delightful resorts for
studying the native in his gayer moods ; for market-day was
always their holiday, and the market-place the rendezvous for
the youths and maidens of the district, as well as the news-
exchange of the old men. The vendors, to be early at the
market-place, generally spent Saturday evening and night
under the shade of the bridge, or collected in the neighbouring
village, whence the tinkle of the gamelaug, their characteristic
musical instrument, would be heard throughout the livelong
night in company, if not concord, with the higher notes of their
curiously drawling voices, repeating tjeritas or semi-historical
tales, and adaptations from the Koran, varied by ])antuns or
love songs.

The collection of wares exposed for barter was always a
curious one : sarongs from their own looms — whose incessant
click-clack is one of the most pleasant and characteristic of the
industrial sounds in their villages — calicoes and silk kercliiefs
from jManchester and Liverpool ; Clark's Paisley thread of
"extra quality"; native-made horn combs, gay ornaments of
spangles and beads, and the elaborate inlaid silver breast-pins
for which the district is famous, worn by every female to fasten
her loose upper robes ; and bamboo hats in great variety. The
Bantamese are specially noted for the manuiacture of these last,
and some of them are really exquisite specimens of plaiting.
In the finest quality, made of carefully prepared narrow strips
of the wood, a quiet but Inerative trade is done with Enropean
markets by unobtrusive go-betweens who collect them through
the district. In Bantam they cost a mere trifle, but in Paris,
I am informed, they are retailed at a profit of nearly one tliou-
sand per cent., as true Panama hats, from whicli it is difficult
to distinguish them. One of these hats, that I treated to the
rougliost jungle wdrk of three years, was scarcely iin})aired
when we parted comj)any.

Other than these the chief articles were household utensils,

60 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

large copper jars for the preparation of rice, beat out of sheet
copper hj native smiths, and shallow iron basins (of Singapore
make) for the daily extraction of the oil of the cocoa-nut
palm, without which and its twin brother the bamboo, native
prosperity and happiness would cease. There were besides
piles of various species of dry-salted river fishes, chiefly Gabus
{Ophiocephalus striatus), Soro and Regis (Barbus duronensis
and B. emarginatus), and Gurame {Opliromenus olfaoc), the
most jirized of them all, in which a large and profitable trade
is carried on with distant parts of the Archipelago. IMany of
these fishes are carefully preserved in the larger wet rice fields,
where during the rainy season, having abundance of food, they
multiply with great rapidity. During the hot season, when
the saicaJis have become, except in the centre, dry fields, the
fishes are captured in immense numbers. Fried in fresh oil
they form an excellent dish, and are the staple flesh-food of
the natives.

A vile odour which permeates the whole air within a wide
area of the market-place, is apt to be attributed to these piles
of fish ; but it really proceeds from another compound sold in
round black balls, called irassL My acquaintance with it was
among my earliest experiences of house-keeping at Genteng.
Having got up rather late one Sunday morning — an opportu-
nity taken by one of my boys to go unknown to me to the
market, which I had not then visited — I was discomfited by
the terrific and unwonted odour of decomposition : — " 3Iy
birds have begun to stink, confound it ! " I exclaimed to
myself. Hastily fetching down the box in which they were
stored, 1 minutely examined and sniffed over every skin,
giving myself in the process inflammation of the nostrils and
eyes for a week after, from the amount of arsenical soap T
inhaled ; but all of them seemed in perfect condition. In the
neighbouring jungle, though I diligently searched half the
morning, I could find no dead carcase, and nothing in the
'' kitchen-midden," where somehow I seemed nearer the source ;
but at last in the kitchen itself I ran it to ground in a compact
parcel done up in a banana leaf.

" What on the face of creation is this ? " I said to the cook,
touching it gingerly.

*' Oh ! master, that is trassi."

IX JAVA. 61

" Trassi ? What is tntssi, in the name of goodness ! "

" Good for eating, master ; — in stew."

" Have I been eating it ? "

" Certainly, master ; it is viosf excellent (enak sekali)."

" You born fool ! Do you wish to poison me and to die
yourself? "

'• 3ray I have a goitre (daih gondok), master, but it is excel-
lent ! " he asseverated, taking hold of the foreskin of his throat,
by the same token that a countryman at home would swear,
"Assures Death!"

Notwithstanding these vehement assurances, I made it dis-
appear in the depths of the jungle, to the horror of the bov,
who looked wistfully after it, and would have fetched it back,
had I not threatened him with the direst penalties if I dis-
covered any such putridity in my house again. I had then to
learn that in every dish, native or European, that I had eaten
since my arrival in the East, this Extract of Decomposition
was mixed as a spice, and it would have been diftieult to
convince myself that I would come by-and-bye knowingly to
eat it daily without the slightest abhorrence. Dampier, who
mentions it in his ' Voyage,' seems to have formed his acquaint-
ance with it in a more philosopliic spirit, for he describes it in
theso terms : — " As a composition of a strong savour, yet a
very delightsom dish to the natives. To make it they throw
a mixture of shrimps and small fish into a sort of weak pickle
made with salt and water, and put into a tight earthen vessel.
The pickle being thus weak, it keeps not the fish firm and
hard, neither is it probably so designed, for the fish are never
gutied. Therefore in a short time they turn all to a mash in
the vessel ; and when they have lain thus a good while so that
the fish is reduced to pulp, they then draw off the liquor into
fresh jars and preserve it for use. The masht fish that remains
behind is called Trassi. 'Tis rank scented ; yet the taste is
not altogether unpleasant, but rather savoury after one is a
little used to it."

One of the most terrible scourges of the island, anil for which
no remedy seems possible, is the spread everywhere of a species
of tall, slender cane — useless for fodder and good onlv for thatch,
— which the natives call alang-alang. Every spot unoccupied
by forest, falls a prey to it ; and when once it gets the upper
C

62 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

hand, forest seeds refuse to root in it. Neither the incessant
rains, nor the driest droughts of summer kill it. The fire may
sweep the surface bare, but it fails to touch the roots, which
spring again in fresher vigour through the ashes. Deep shade
alone seems to check its growth. The native in the hill
regions does not make saivahs (whicli are good from year to
year), but constantly takes in his fields by felling, where he
lists, in the unbroken forest. As, after reaping for only two
seasons this new land, (on which he scatters his seed between the
fallen trunks), he deserts it for a newer patch, broad tracts of
the island are every year becoming covered with this ineradi-
cable exhauster of the soil, and by-and-bye the virgin forests
of this country will have entirely ceased, if some sharper
supervision be not exercised by the Government over the
timber-felling mania of the native. As Colonel Beddorae
remarks of the like devastation in India : " the value of the
timber thus destroyed by one man, calculating it by the
number of logs it might have yielded, is at least twenty times
as great as the value of the crop of ra(/i obtained in the
two years that cultivation is continued. The low jungle
which comes up after desertion of Icumari land is more
injurious to health than lofty forest open below. Besides
health considerations and decrease of rain and moisture, this
rude system of culture [results in] the destruction of valuable
timber .... and rendering of land unfit for coffee."

The present vegetation of the whole of this portion of the
island stands on an unbroken layer of volcanic mud, which tells
of a period of almost unparalleled volcanic activity. AVherever
the streams have opened sections, or a road cutting has
been made, numbers of great trees, some of them thirty yards
in length, are exposed in a completely silicified condition, and
often so jierfectly as to have preserved to their cores the
structure of their tissues. Standing on some one of these bare
denuding slopes, I have tried to picture to myself the terrible
outburst in which this region must have been overwhelmed, at
a date which cannot geologically have been very remote ; for
lying prostrate in great numbers as they were, — many of them
having fallen across each other, — the forest of which they
formed a part must have been suddenly entombed beneath an
avalanche of the petrifying mud so deep that the powerfully

IX JAVA. 63

corroding tropical rains of centuries are only now beginning to
exhume them.

About the only piece of exposed strata in this part of Java,
I believe, lay within a few miles of my hut. Out of itl picked
fossil fragments of vegetable stems, and of broken Odraia
and Peden shells, closely resembling those still in the adjacent
seas, and showing that an elevation of some 200 to 300 feet had
taken place here at a recent period. That these subterranean
forces whose activity resulted in the varied physical changes
which West Java has experienced (such as the subsidence of
the Sunda Straits), had not ceased, was brought home to me
with all the vivid and indescribable sensations that accompany
one's first experience of powerful and unwonted phenomena.

On the 28tli of 31arch, 1879, about eight o'clock in the even-
ing, while sitting under my verandah, a sudden shiver and
a violent bumping wave passed as it were through me and
under my feet, bewildering me, but affording me the ineradicable
experience of a violent earthquake. For some thirty seconds
my hut and all its contents were lustily shaken, but otherwise
no harm was done. Some forty miles awav, however, at the
base of the Gede volcano, the village of Tjanjoor was wrecked
and several lives lost amid the fallins: houses, while on the
following day volumes of smoke and ashes were emitted by the
mountain whose summit formed the background of my view.

One of my most interesting discoveries here was a case of
mimicry in a spider, of the kind named alluring coloration by
]\Ir. Wallace. The spider itself, to which I had given the
provisional name of T/iomisus decipiens, has proved interesting
as the type of a new genus, named Ornithcscaioides by the
llev. 0. i*. Cambrido;e. The ffreat interest attachinji: to this
find, however, is on account of its habits. I had been allured
into a vain chase after one of those large, stately flitting
butterflies (Hestia) through a thicket of prickly Pandantis
horridas, to the detriment of my apparel and the loss of my
temper, when on the bush that obstructed my farther pursuit
I observed one of the Eesptriidie at rest on a leaf on a bird's
dropping. I had often observed small Blues at rest on similar
spots on the ground, and have often wondered what the members
of such a refined and beautifully painted family as the Lycm-
nidse could find to enj<»y at food seemingly so incongruous for

64

A NATUEALIST'S WANDEBINGS

a butterfly. I approached with gentle steps but ready net to
see if possible how the present species was engaged. It per-
mitted me to get quite close and even to seize it between my
fingers ; to my surprise, however, part of the body remained be-
hind, and in adhering as I thought to the excreta, it recalled to
my mind an observation of Mr. Wallace's on certain Coleoptera
falling a prey to their inexperience by boring in the bark of
trees in whose exuding gum they became unwittingly entombed.
I looked closely at, and finally touched with the tip of my

A BIRD S EXCRETA-MIMICKING SPIDER.

finger, the excreta to find if it were glutinous. To my delighted
astonishment I found that my eyes had been most perfectly
deceived, and that the excreta was a most artfully coloured
spider lying on its back, with its feet crossed over and closely
adpressed to its body.

The appearance of the excreta rather recently left on a leaf
by a bird or a lizard is well known. Its central and denser
portion is of a pure white chalk-like colour, streaked here and
there with black, and surrounded by a thin border of the dried-
up more fluid part, which, as the leaf is rarely horizontal^ often
runs for a little way towards the margin. The spider, which
belongs to a family, the Thomisidx, possessing rather tubsrcu-

IN JAVA. 65

lated, thick, and prominent abdomened bodies, is of a general
white colour; the underside, which is the one exposed, is pure
chalk white, while the lower portions of its first and second
pair of legs and a spot on the head and on the abdomen are jet
black.

This species does not weave a web of the ordinary kind, but
constructs on the surface of some prominent dark green leaf
only an irregularly shaped film of the finest texture, drawn out
towards the sloping margin of the leaf into a narrow streak,
with a slightly thickened termination. The spider then takes
its place on its back on the irregular patch I have described,
holding itself in position by means of several strong spines on
the upper sides of the thighs of its anterior pairs of legs thrust
under the film, and crosses its legs over its thorax. Thus rest-
ing with its white abdomen and black legs as the central and
dark portions of the excreta, surrounded by its thin web-film
rejjresenting the marginal watery portion become dry, even to
some of it trickling off and arrested in a thickened extremity
such as an evaporated drop would leave, it waits with con-
fidence for its prey — a living bait so artfully contrived as
to deceive a pair of human eyes even intently examining it

66 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER II.

SOJOURN AT KOSALA IN BANTAM.

Leave Genteng — Native blacltsmitbs at Sarljira— Hot springs of Tjipanas —
Birds and plants at Tjipanas— Invitationto Kosala — The Kosala e.-tate
— The ciiiious disease Lata — Tlie Wa\i-\vau — Birds— Bees — White ants
— Great trees — Long drought and its consequences — 'I he Hemileia vas-
tatrix, a fungoid blight and the buffalo disease — Flora and Fauna of
Kosala Mountains — Singular living ants' nes's and their develop-
ment— Orchids at Kosala and some curious devices for securing self-
fertilisation — Ancient remains in the forest — The Karangs and their
curious rites — Tlie Badui — Religion and superstitions of the people of
Bantam — Leave Kosala.

After a very interesting period spent at Genteng, I removed
further to the south in search of a station on the mountains,
whose distant slopes I could see covered with the great forest
which I had never yet beheld close, and under whose shade I
had ever had such an intense longing to roam, the charm of
whose grandeur, after spending unbroken years in it, remains
still as one of the most delightful reminiscences of my
residence in the tropics. Halting for a night at Sadjira I was
taken by the chief of the village to see numerous blacksmiths
at work in the manufacture of knives and krisses. The
bellows used by them in order to give a continuous blast was
made of two large cylinders of bamboo vertically set in the
ground, in each of which a piston made of a dense bunch of
feathers wound round a rod, was worked alternately, the wind
being conducted through a small tube at the bottom of each
bamboo, to meet in one pipe before passing below the fire-

Pande is the Sundanese term for a worker in iron ; the
word is cf Sanscrit origin, and originally meant " learned."
Though this signification is not attached to it by the natives
now, the smiths are held in the greatest esteem by them.
Before the Hindu invasion the people of Java used only stone
implements and hatchets, often of great elegance of design

IX JAVA. 67

and beautifully polished and turned. Dr. Solewijn Gelpke,
the director of " the cultures " in Java, has formed at great cost
a splendid collection of the implements of the stone ago of the
island, some of which I had the pleasure of examining on my
way home in 1883. Of the beautiful workmanship of the
early Javanese one or two fine specimens are to be seen in the
ethnolo2:ical collection in the liritish ]Museum.

In the village of Tjipanas, in the Tjiberang valley, distant
only a few miles from Sadjira, I spent a week. The village
derives its name from the hot-springs (which the name signifies)
that issue from the ground there at a temperature of 137"-
140** F. The place is permeated with the odour of sulphur
rising from the springs, which had been dug out into cisterns,
round which a crowd of sufferers from long distances wore
constantly seated, bathing their diseased and ulcerated limbs
and rheumatic joints.

An abrupt hill which overshadowed the village, rising up to
about 1000 feet above the sea, reminded me, in the way in
which it was composed of great blocks of disrupted rock lying
in all positions and at every angle one on another, of the
titanic structure of the hills of Cintra to the north of Lisbon.
Both probably owe their disintegrated condition to the con-
stant earthquakes by which they are shaken. Growing on
the thin soil on the tops of the rocks I gathered one of the most
conspicuous of ground orchids, a tall white-flowered species of
Calanfhe, nearly all of whoso flowers 1 was surprised to find
had been shed without being fertilised ; ^hile in the crevices
grew luxuriant Osmundas (0. javanica) closely resembling
the Eoyal-ferns found at home.

In the young forest on its slopes I shot three interesting
birds ; a male and female of the PJatylophus galericuJatus, a
crow- like bird with a handsome black crest resembling a
cockatoo's, finally settling the question that Count Sulvadori
was correct in asserting its Sumatran ally (P. coronatus) to be
a distinct species, and not the female of tlu^ Javan bird as was
supposed by 3Ir. Elliott; the other the Fairy Ij]ue-l)ird {Irene
tureosa), one of the finest plumaged birds of the island, which
is highlv prized in Europe for plumassiers' purposes. Its wings,
throat and breast are deep velvety black, while its head,
back and tail are of glistening turquoise-blue, as if the colour

68 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

had been enamelled on in an unbroken sheet. It was found
quite solitary or in company only with its mate, and never in
flocks.

I was pleased to see the liveliness of the village children,
who amused themselves with games very similar to those of
children at our country schools at home — games of marbles
played with small stones, very like what is called help in the
north of Scotland, Avith varieties of chevy, tig, and blind-man's
buff.

Hearing that I had come to reside in the village, a country-
man, Mr. H. Lash of the Kosala estate, sent me a warm
invitation to make his house in the mountains my head-
quarters, which, as Tjipanas was a very unprofitable station, I
was only too glad to do. Kosala was only a forenoon's ride iij)
through winding valleys to an elevation of 1800 feet.

My gratitude can never be warmly enough expressed to this
esteemed friend (now, I regret to say, no more) and his accom-
plished wife, for their great hospitality and kindness ; and for
the assistance which for many months was aiforded me by my
host, both personally and through his servants and horses, in
making botanical collections in the large stretch of virgin
forest which he owned, specimens of whose great trees were
si^ecial desiderata with me.

Orchids abounded in great variety in the unopened forest,
while the tree trunks that had been lying felled in the coffee
gardens for some time were overrun with the species more
delierhtinir in sunshine. Beino^ soon struck with the large
number whose flowers fell without setting any fruit, — a fact
that first struck me while botanising some years before in the
south of Europe, — I determined to institute a series of observa-
tions on these plants, a project in wluch Mr. Lash — himself
one of those who sedulously cultivate science in their leisure
hours — entered with the greatest interest, and never Avearied
of personally searching for specimens, for whose rearing he
put a great part of his beautiful garden ungrudgingly at my
disposal.

The estate house, planned by himself, was a large tiled
edifice of planks not subject to the atta(;ks of insects, elevated
a few feet on piles standing on an asphalt floor, isolated by a
stream of water entirely encircling the building, so that it was

IN JAVA. 69

absolutely free from the tropical pest of ants. Perfectly con-
structed and furnished for a tropical climate, and provided
with a large and valuable library, it was admirably situated
for a botanical station — the hills rising round it to three
thousand feet, — whose advantages the want of the necessary
instruments alone prevented me from fully utilising. In no
part of the world can the climate reach greater perfection,
I think, than in the mountain regions of these islands, among
which I first felt the real charm of the life I had espoused.

The first thing of interest to attract me, within a few hours
of my arrival at Kosala, was a case in one of the servants of the
house of that curious cerebral affection called by the natives
lata. It is of a hysterical nature,, and is confined chiefly to
women, although I have also seen a man affected by it. On
being startled or excited suddenly, the person becomes lata,
losing the control of her will, and cannot refrain from imitating
whatever she may hear or see done, and will keep calling out as
long as the fit lasts the name — and generally that word alone— of
whatever has flashed through her mind as the cause of it : " He-
ih-heh, matjan ! " (tiger) ; '• He-ih-heh, boorung besar ! " (a great
bird). Her purpose will be arrested, as, if walking, she will
stop short, and on going on again will often follow some other
course. The prefatory excdamation is an invariable symptom,
seemingly caused by involuntary hysterical inspirations.
According to the degree of alarm the symptoms may remain
only a few moments or last for the greater part of a day,
especially if the patient be prevented from calming down.
The afflicted, if not very seriously affected, are not altogether
incapacitated from performing the duties to which they are
accustomed. The most curious characteristic of the disease is
their imitation of every action they see. On one occasion,
while eating a banana, I suddenly met this servant with a
piece of soap in her hand ; and, perceiving she was slightly
lata, but without appearing to take any notice of her, I made
a vigorous bite at the fruit in passing her, an action she
instantly repeated on the piece of soap. On another occasion,
while she was looking on as I placed some plants in drjing
paper, not knowing that caterpillars were objects of supreme
abhorrence to the natives, I flicked off in a humorous way
on to her dress one that happened to be on a leaf ; she was

70 A NATURALISTS WANDERINGS

instantly intensely lata, and, throwing off all her clothing,
she made off like a chased deer along the mountain road,
repeating the word for caterj^illar as she ran, until compelled
by exhaustion to stop, when the spasm gradually left her. My
own " boy," who would unconcernedly seize all sorts of snakes
in his hands, became one day lata also, on suddenly touching a
large caterpillar. My host's maid once, while alone at some
distance from the house, having come unexpectedly on a large
lizard — the Baiawak — was seized by a paroxysm ; dropping
down on her hands and knees to imitate the reptile, she thus
followed it through mud, water and mire to the tree in which
it took refuge, where she was arrested and came to herself,
ilnother case which came under my knowledge was more
tragic in its results. This woman, startled by treading in a
field on one of the most venomous snakes in Java, became so
lata that she vibrated her finger in imitation of the tongue of
the reptile in front of its head, till the irritated snake struck
her ; and the poor creature died within an hour.

During the attack the eyes have a slightly unnatural stare,
but there is never a total loss of consciousness, and throughout
the paroxysm the patient is wishful to get away from the
object affecting her, yet is without the strength of will to
escape or to cease acting in the way I have described. Lata
persons are constantly teased by their fellows, and are often
kept in an excited state for whole days.

In the early mornings here, I was at first constantly awakened
by the loud plaintive wailings of a colony of Wau-waus, one of
the Gihhons (Hyalohates leiiciscus) ironi the neighbouring forest,
as they came down to the stream to drink. On first hearing
their cried one can scarcely believe that they do not proceed
from a band of uproarious and shouting children. Their '' Woo-

oo-ut woo-ut woo-oo-ut wut-wut-wut ■ wutwut-

wut," always more wailing on a dull, heavy morning previous
to rain, was just such as one might expect from the sorrowful
countenance that is characteristic of this group of the Quad-
rumana. They have a wonderfully human look in their eyes ;
■ and it was with great distress that I witnessed the death of
the only one I ever shot. Falling on its back Avith a thud on
the ground, it raised itself on its elbows, passed its long taper
fingers over the wound, gave a woful look at them, and fell

IN JAVA. 71

back at full length dead — " saperti orang " (just like a man), as
my boy remarked. A live specimen brought to me by a native,
I kept in captivity for a short time, and it became one of the
most gentle and engaging creatures possible; but when the
calling of its free mates reached its prison-house, it used to
place its ear close to the bars of its cage and listen ^vith such
intense and eager wistfulness that I could not bear to confine
it longer, and had it set free on the margin of its old forest
home. Strange to say, its former companions, perceiving
perhaps the odour of captivity about it, seemed to distrust its
respectability, and refused to allow it to mingle with them, I
hope that amid the free woods this taint was soon lost, and
that it recovered its pristine happiness. The habits of the
Wau-wau closely resemble those of the Siamang of Sumatra.

Large stretches of the forest in the immediate neighbourhood
of the house w-ere planted in coffee gardens, cultivated not as
in Cevlon in the open sun, but under moderate shade chiefly of
the Erythrina indica, in patches cleared out of the forest some
distance isolated from each other so as to prevent the spread,
if possible, of any outbreak of the coffee disease (Hemileia), and
to give each garden a chance of escape. Seen from the heights
above, these parterres scarlet with erythrina flowers, had a very
brilliant effect on the landscape. In the newer gardens many
of the felled trees still lay rotting, and there insects and birds
were in abundance ; but Java has been so well collected over
by excellent entomologists and naturalists for so long a period
that few novelties could be expected. Nevertheless, in all
departments, species of interest were constantly falling under
my notice for the first time.

I used to place a lamp close to my open window, in hope of
attracting moths ; but, while very unsuccessful in this respect,
I had frequent visits from the smaller sorts of bats, which, on
my slamming the window to, were, though safely trapped, not
ensnared within the folds of my butterfly net without a deal
of clever dodging on their part, and of noisy disturbance of fur-
niture on mine. Of these one was a very rare species, Calops
frithii, and another has been described as new to science by IMr.
Oldfield Thomas, under the name of Kerivoula javana, a form
interniediate between the Thilippine and New Guinean types.

For many months after my arrival the earliest hours of the

72 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

mornin*^ were always resonant with the rich deep notes of the
Tjiung or Beo, as the Javanese Grackle {Gracida javenensis) is
named. They used to frequent a papaya-tree which grew just
outside my window, whose fruit they are extremely fond of,
whence they poured forth their song in the intervals of feed-
ino-. This bird, which is of a rich metallic blue-black plumage,
has the nape of the neck adorned with two deep orange lappets,
and is greatly prized as a pet by the natives, from its deep
and ventriloquistic voice, its wonderful aptitude in learning to
speak and whistle, and for its comical ways. A very high price
is often given for a well-trained bird, even by the natives.
The Grackle is somewhat difficult to rear at first, but when
once accustomed to confinement it thrives well — I have seen
one which had been caged for nearly eighteen years — especially
if a bamboo cylinder be placed in the cage for it to creep
into at night, as, when in freedom, it does into a hole in a tree.

Pink-headed doves (Plilopus 2Mrphyreus) fed in flocks on the
figs ; and at 3000 feet I stumbled on a nestful of six fledg-
lings of Fomatorhinus montanus, which were being tended, I
was surprised to observe, by three parents ; but I was unable to
satisfy myself positively whether the additional parent was
male or female ; my boy, however, who on most subjects was
well informed, said that " the female ' Patjingpayor ' has always
two husbands."

No insect sooner attracts the observation of the new comer
than the destructive carpenter bees, XyJocopa, Avhich with
noisy ostentation are incessantly boring their wide tunnels
into the woodwork of every building. To sit watching their
entrance, and clay each \\j) in a living tomb of its own
digging, was one of the most hilarious amusements of the
boys. Many other species of Hymenoptera attract atten-
tion by their curious persistence in building mud-cells from
every hanging thread, in locks and hollow tubes, and in every
unoccupied corner, stocking them with the caterpillars and
spiders which is all the store their parental feelings induce
them to lay up for the benefit of their progeny. Jn the forest
the resemblance of their domiciles to their surroundings makes
them less easy to discover ; but the accompanying figure of
a nest of one of the EumenidcV (Zethus cyanop>terus) shows
how artistic and ingenious some of tliese creatures are.

IN JAVA. 73

A colony of these bees had covered the stems of a species
of Asclejnas, overgrowing the face of a high cliff; and it
took a sharp eye to distinguish their nests from clusters of
the Avithered leaves of the climber. Composed of chips of
leaves glued together, they were protected from the rain by
a projecting roof, which for the purpose of concealment was
cunningly shaped like the foliage of the plant itself. There

NEST OF THE ZETIIVS CVANOrTERfS.

was quite a crowd of them, and as they circled about, their
dark wings flashing in the sun as they darted out and into
their nests, they reminded me of swallows about a church
window.

Less obtrusive, more destructive, but full of interest, are the
operations of the various cohmics of termites or White-ants.
It is impossible to observe the habits of those that bore in the

74 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

interior of planks and trees ; but by the species, that build large
excrescences on the tree-trunks, one must admire the specially
happy way in which has been settled the difficult question of
how to keep their thoroughfares clean and unobstructed, and
with the least trouble dispose of the refuse of so large a colony.
It is worth while to break down a portion of their tough walls,
to watch for half an hour the outrush of the city guards with
\\\e\v 2nlielhanhe heads, who with elevated antennte sniff round
everywhere for the cause of alarm, charging about frantically,
nodding and beating their spiked frontlets against the walls in
a most threatening way, till they think the danger past, when
they retire and order out hordes of builders to repair the
breaches, who, distinguished at once by the absence of a frontal
spike, have till then kept away from the scene.

After a general survey of the ruins, each worker retires to
fetch a small squarish chip, carefully examines the exact place
into which it is to be built, then applying to that spot the
tip of its abdomen, it excretes a drop of a pale glutinous sub-
stance, places in it the chip, and hammers it down by the
combined application of its maxillse and antenna?. While the
building is going on a company of soldiers stalk about the walls
giuxrding the workers, every now and then tapping their heads
with the conscious air of a constable reminding them that his
presence is their safety. Thus block after block with amazing
rapidity is cemented together, and the sewage of the colony is
piled into the odourless homogeneous walls of their dwelling.

I was astonished one day in making a sweep through a
swarm, as I thought of bees, which was buzzing overhead, to
find that it was composed of flies called by the natives Papan-
tong, a species nearly related to our common Blue-bottle.

Above the coffee gardens the heights, up to 4000 feet, were
clothed with virgin forest, full of noble giants of the woods.
In the gardens many of the finest of these trees had been
allowed to stand, where they exhibited all the stateliness and
grandeur of stem and crown which can be fully appreciated
only when surveyed at some distance off. Prominent for their
straight and shapely pillar-like stems stand out the Lakka
{Mijristica iners), the Rasamala (Liquidamhar altlngiana), and
the white-stemmed Kajeput trees (Melaleuca leucadeiidron), all
of them rising with imjjosing columns, Avithout a branch often

IX JAVA. 75

for 80 end sometimes 100 feet. Of the other stately trees
here, I noticed the Mangosteen {Garcinia mangostana) and
the Vernonia javaniea, a member of a family, the Composite,
that in our own country never attains any importance greater
than that of a moderate herb.

The season, however, was a very unfortunate one for enlarging
my herbarium. Little over ten per cent, of all the forest trees
in 1879 produced either flower or fruit. During 1877 a great
scarcity of rain prevailed, while in 1878 almost an unbroken
drought existed during the East-monsoon. The parched sur-
face of the ground broke up into ravine-like cracks, which, ex-
tending from four to five feet in depth and two to three in
breadth, destroyed great numbers of the forest-trees by en-
circling and snapping off their roots. Shrubs and small trees
in exposed places were simply burned up in broad patches.
Flowering was almost entirely suspended — so much so that the
wild bees could produce no honey, which in ordinary years is
one of the very abundant products of the forests. Crops of all
kinds failed, while devastating fires, whose origin could seldom
be traced, were so frequent in the forest and in the great alang-
alang fields, that the population lived in constant fear of
their villa2,es and even of their lives and stock. It was in vain
that the natives, following their superstitious rites, carried their
cats in procession, to the sound of gongs and the clattering
of rice blocks, to the nearest streams to bathe and sprinkle
them ; the rain after such a ceremony ought to have come,
but it did not.

The Batavia Handehllad states tlie loss in Java, consequent
on the drought of 1878, to have been on coffee, ten millions
of guilders ; on sugar, seven ; on tobacco, five ; and on rice
fifteen — equal in all to a loss in Englisli money of £3,000,000.
The West-monsoon (November to March) of 1878-9, memorable
for its excessive rain, was followed by an abnormally wet and
sunless dry season, which was almost as disastrous for the
cultures of the island as its predecessors had been from
drought. The coffee-trees produced abundance of flowers, but
as scarcely a bee was to be seen anywhere, very few of these
became fertilised or produced berries — so easily is the balance
of nature disturbed. Later in the season, however, the coffee
shrubs produced a second show of flowers, which in a multitude

76 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

of cases did not proceed further than knobbed buds, the bulk
of which I found, by marking and carefully examining them
every day, produced fruit without expanding their petals, or, to
use the scientific term, cleistogamously.

Marching in company with these disastrous seasons came
the terrible epidemic among the buffaloes (the natives' stay
in the cultivation of their fields, and the main part of their
riches), which had not disappeared in the middle of 1883,
being less violent only from jjaucity of victims. The plague
was nearly coincident with the blight — fortunately net of a
very severe nature — of the Memileia vastatrix in the coffee
gardens. It is a remarkable foct that the buffalo disease
and the HemUeia appeared without, as far as can be traced,
extraneous contagion, on the Avestern coasts of Sumatra
(happily for that island in a slight degree only), and on the
extreme west of Java, whence it vaulted in most eccentric
riot throughout the whole island. Not only was the coffee
blighted, but the grass meadows and the forest trees also were
so covered, especially in j^laces with a westerly exposure, with a
fungoid disease as to become a subject of native remark. One
could not help suspecting that these noxious germs had been
brought by the winds, and that perhaps even the plague in
the herds had resulted from the blighted grass on which they
fed. The correctness of this view seems to some slight degree
corroborated by the information I subsequently obtained from
natives and others in various parts of the Archipelago. In
Sumatra, not only the buffaloes suffered, but the elephants, the
deer and the wild pigs died in the forest in immense numbers,
and, by preying on the dying herds, even the tigers fell
victims to the stalking pestilence. In Timor also, in the
higher parts of the interior of the island, the cattle were
attacked, while in the southern plains the pigs and the horses,
which there run wild in herds, were found scattered about in
the forest dead.

Closely following the bad years and the bovine pestilence,
which deprived them of the means of cultivating their lands,
came a scarcity bordering on famine and a fever epidemic of a
virulent kind, to which the natives succumbed in thousands.
The tale of the woes of their province must surely have
seemed to them full and runnins; over when the volcanic wave

IN JAVA. 77

from the eruption of Krakatoa, in 1883, overwhelmed its sea-
board and washed so many of their fellows to destruction.

Notwithstanding the bad season, by hunting- far and wide
my herbarium grew slowly in bulk, for, though the great
trees were in a very destitute condition, herbaceous plants
were abundant, and not a few of the smaller shrubs and trees
had begun to recover somewhat. Among the most attractive
shrubs were the species of figs, of which there was an endless
variety. The whole group of the Artocarpese is remarkable
for beauty of foliage and fruit — as the hollow receptacle in
which their minute flowers and true fruits are developed is
often popularly called — for their striking habit and for their
useful products. Some of them, as the india-rubber pri^tducing
waringins and kawats species of TJrostigma {U. microcarpwn,
and consociatum), are among the giants of the vegetable world,
and its most relentless parasites and tyrants. Brought by
some wandering bird or fruit-eating quadruped to the cieft of
a high tree, the seed germinating drops down all round its
host long tendril-like roots, which in a few seasons become
indissoluble bonds that interlace, grow together, and cdose up
the tree-stem that gave it its support, till its life is choked
out, and only here and there, before it finally disappears, can it
be seen through latticed apertures, like an Inquisition martyr
built into the wall. The young kawat grows, shoots upward

its top and

" spreads lier arms,
I'rancliing so broad and long, that on the ground
Tlie bended twigs take root ; and daughters grow
About tlie niotlier-trce, a pillai-ed shade."

Less stately bui not less beautiful are the shrub forms, the
species of Hamplas {Ficus microcarpa, amplas, and liolitoria)
whose rough leaves provide the natives with ready-made sand-
paper ; the Ficus conh'foh'a, the Amismata (Ficus aspera),
and the Kiliedjo — a bushy shrub, whose fruit, always in
profusion along its braufhes, is when ripe of a rich purple
hue, and unripe of the brightest vermilion or carmine colour,
in brilliant contrast to its dark foliage; while the semi-
])arasiti(' climbing Ficus rQilicans delights to cling to the
tallest trees of the forest. Its fruit, which is as large as an
orange, is put forth throughout the whole extent of its stem in
7

78 A NATUBALISrS WANDERINGS

profuse abundance, massed in clusters in every stage of growth ;
and as these in their passage to maturity assume all the diffe-
rent brilliant hues by which rich orange changes into the
sombre chades of purple, the effect against the background of
the tree-stem and of its own singularly chaste foliage is strik-
ing in the extreme, and is one of these objects that the eye can
meet every day with renewed pleasure.

The highest mountain in this neighbourhood attains an
elevation of nearly 5000 feet, and for the last 500 yards of its
ascent presented many interesting features. In producing
plants rarely found at so low an elevation en higher moun-
tains, the Javan flora on the pure volcanic clay differs from
that where the soil is more overlaid with forest humus.
Two ferns, a species of Gleichenia and the broad-fronded
Vipteris horsfieldi — here at its lowest altitudinal limit — pro-
fusely covered the ground ; and, as if stretching their utmost
towards tlie heights where they naturally grow, rhododendrons
and a beautiful creeping species of Ericacew [GauJtheria
repens) clothed the tops of the tallest trees. The lemon-scented
laurel {Tdrmithera ciirata), whose leaves and fruit give out a
sweet odour that can be detected a long way off, grew in
clumps ; and its fruits, a favourite food of the Bulbuls and
the Bell-birds, retain their perfume even after they have been
dropped by these birds.

xVt the summit pitcher-plants {Nepenthes pliyllampliora)
appeared in profusion, climbing up the trees and running
over the ground among the moss, out of which peeped the
delicate bright star-like flowers of the Agrostemma montanum,
which always reminded me of the jiretty Eurojiean Chickweed
Winter-green (Trientalis europo&a) of our northern woods.
On one of the lower knolls I found perhaps the most in-
teresting plant in my Javan collection, a sj)ecies of Petrfea
(P. arhorea), growing entirely wild in the forest. This genus,
belonging to the family of the Ycrhenacess, is almost entirely
confined to the South American continent ; and it is of
extreme interest to find it, in this inexplicable way, cropping
uj) in a region so far removed from the centre of its distribu-
tion. A species from the island of Timor occurs, without
history, in the collection in the British Museum made by
Mr. Eobert Brown ; but these are the only two examples, so

TBANSVERSE SECTiox OF THE STEM OF Mijrmecodia tubewsa.

IN JAVA, 79

far cis I am aware, liitherto collected uncultivated in the
Old World.

The l-lth of June is to me memorable as being the day
on which for the first time I saw in its native habitat, and
gathered there, that most singular of the vegetable productions
of the Indian Archipelago, the Myrmecodia tuherosa and
Jlydiioiiliytum formicarum. Their most striking characteristic
w'ill be indelibly marked in my remembrance by the sen-
sations other than mental, by which their acquaintance was
made.

In tearing down a galaxy of epiphytic orchids from an
erytiirina tree, I was totally overrun, during the short momen-
tary contact of my hand with the bunch, with myriads of a
minute species of ant {Fheidoh javana), whose every bite Avas a
sting of fire. Beating a precipitous retreat from the spot, I
stripped with the haste of desperation, but, like pepper-dust
over me, they were writhing and twisting their envenomed
jaws in my skin, each little abdomen spitefully quivering with
every thrust it made. Going back, when once I had rid
myself of my tormentors, to secure the specimens I had
gathered, I discovered in the centre of the bunch a singular
plant I had never seen before, which I perceived to be the
central attraction of the ants. It was called Kilang-Txurah by
my boy, who said it was the home of the ants. I was over-
joyed with the revelation that a slice struck off by my knife,
made of an intricate honeycombed structure swarming with
minute ants — a living formicarium.

In the space of a short search I found, generally high on
the trees, abundance of specimens of both genera, which, not
without several futile attempts and many imprecations and
groanings on the part of my boys, were brought to the ground ;
;ind, at the ends of a pole over their shoulders, up which the
infuriated dwellers would ascend to spread over their bare
bodies to their frequent discomfiture, they were at last safely
deposited in a spot in ]\[r. Lash's garden, whore I could
examine them with comfort without disturbing their inhabi-
tants.

The accompanying representation (page 80) represents the
general a])])i'arance of the epiphyte : a spine-covered bulb
surmounted bv a cvliiidrical axis bearing leaves and minute

80 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

flowers, while the longitucliual section on the opposite page
shows the complicate system of galleries— some of them
papillated — inhabited by the ants.

Observing the ants often employed in carrying out whitish
particles, I at first conjectured that the irritation of their
diorrino- out a dwellino; must have induced the swelling of the
bulb ; and, curious to see the modus operandi of its commence-
ment, I decided to raise a few of them from seed. This turned
my attention to their flowers and fruit. The flowers are pro-
duced in deep spine-protected pits on the axis surmounting

YOUNG PLANT OF MYRMECODIA TfBEROSA.

the bulb, and are remarkable for the extreme rapidity with
which the cycle of their functional changes are performed.
The pellucid white flower appears, and is followed by an
orange, watery fruit, whose seeds ripen and often germinate in
the little pits where they grow, all within the space of thirty-
six hours.

Some years later Dr. Burck, of the Buitenzorg Gardens, most
kindly showed me specimens and microscopic slides illustrating
some interesting observations * he had made on these flowers :
that the corolla segments rarely open (though a slight touch

* These have since been published in tlie ' Annales du Jardin Botauique du
Buitenzorg,' vol. iv., p. 16.

IN JAVA. 81

can effect it) ; that the pollen grains exsert their pollen tubes
while still in the anthers ; and that both the external and the
internal surfaces of the lobes of the pistil are covered with
papillae, indicating that these surfaces are functionally active.

I have never observed these flowers approached by the ants
that infest the interior, nor by any other insect, which to gain
admission to the flower, even if open, must be very small
indeed. The anthers and the pistil do not seem to reach
maturity together, yet it would seem that self-fertilisation
alone can take place ; perhaps the tubes of the pollen grains
which fall to the bottom of the corolla manage to reach the
lower lobes of the pistil and produce fecundation.

The seeds I planted germinated with great freedom, and I
cultivated quite a number of young Myrmecodia, whose growth I
watched with the greatest interest. Many of tliem I kept quite
isolated from the interference not only of the Plieidole javana,
which seems to be the only species of ant which lives in these
plants in their native state, but of all other species, and I was
surprised to find that from their very earliest appearance this
curious galhried structure arose without the ]jresence of the
ants, and that the plants continued to grow and thrive vigo-
rously in their absence as long as I cultivated them. Some
bulbs had a single canal reaching to their centre from a round
orifice opening generally close to the little tap-root ; others
presented one or two loculi in the interior, without any
communication at first with the exterior,
partially full of a spongy substance look-
ing like its own degenerated tissue. These
chambers invariably developed a spongy
pith — which in a secti(m it was not diffi-
cult to trace out in advance in the still
fleshy substance — towards and to open at

, *. , ., , ■ /« YOVNd 5IYKMEC0DIA, AKD

last at one or more spots on tlie exterior ot section of a toMEWHAT
the bulb. Secondary galleries, arising in oldek one.
the same manner as the primary, soon formed communicating
channels, extending with age, throughout the whole of the
growing bulb. At a later period, in Amboiua, where the
Myrmecodia and the Ili/dnophijtum were very abundant, I
found many specimens containing a large central and quite
isolated chamber full of water — not rain-water — round which

82 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

radiated the galleries tenanted by ants and their larvae of the
same species as in Java.

Since my original observations, Dr. IMelchior Treub, Director
of the Botanic Gardens in Buitenzorg, has conducted and pub-
lished * a series of important researches into the development
of these bizarre plants, which have confirmed generally the
observations I had made, and have proved besides that what
I have called degeneration is the result of a transformation
into corh of the tissue of the plant ; which, becoming entirely
dried up, gradually extends the galleries towards the exterior,
when the fluffy mass disappears or is carried out by the ants.

Notwithstanding these researches it remains still a mysteiy
what causes the development of these corky cells, what advan-
tage the plant derives from its unusual structure, and what is
the mutual benefit of this close relation between insect and
plant. That the ants should so persistently infest and yet
derive no advantage beyond accommodation from the plant,
seems unlikely ; it is probable however that the papillne in
tlie galleries, whose function is still an enigma, may afford some
nourishment to them, but that the insects are not absolutely
indispensable to the perfect performance of the functions of the
plant is certain from Dr. Treub's observations. He suggests that
they perhaps ward off enemies from the plant, or that they may
remove, for their own nourishment, injurious excretions from
the papillae of these channels whose office may be to distribute
air through the fleshy mass of the bulb. Altogether these
Mijrmecodia are among the most singular of vegetable pro-
ductions, showing us how much we have yet to learn of the
intricate processes of nature.

I gathered here another interesting specimen in some
leaves of the Bryopliyllum cdlijciniim. As is well known, the
marginal notches of the leaves of this plant, when laid on the
ground or in a damp place, produce buds which develop into
new plants. In the leaves I gathered here, however, complete
flowers and fruit were produced directly from the notches.

Yv'hile botanising in Portugal, in the spring of lS77,t I was
remarkably struck by the number of orchids I gathered that

* In the * Annales,' sup. cit.. vol. iii., pp. 130-157, from which the accom-
panying figures here reproduced are taken,
t Nature, vol. xvi. p. 1C2.

IN JAVA. 83

seemed never to have had an effective visit paid them by any
of the crowd of bees, butterflies, and beetles, among which
tliey blossomed. They were mostly terrestrial species, ophrys
chiefly, and were some of them handsome, and very sweetly
scented ; yet they might as well have wasted their sweetness
on the desert air, for scarcely any of them ever lost their pollen
masses, or had these fertilising grains applied to their own
stigmas. Since then I have carefully examined all orchids
that 1 have encountered, and have been surprised at the
immense numbers which — possessing brilliant, small, and not
seldom even large flowers, often highly perfumed — never or
very rarely produce seed capsules, but which blossom and
fall without benefiting in any way their race. At Kosala I
was able to continue my observations both on those growing
naturally in the forest as well as on those I reared in Mr. Lash's
garden, where, after once taking to the trees they were as
nearly as possible under natural conditions. The Cymhidium
tricolor produces flower-spikes often attaining a length of
nearly four feet, studded with florets whi^h are rather sombre
in colour; yet it could scarcely be passed without attracting
admiration. Of the florets of several plants I counted, seventy-
nine per cent, had their pollinia intact, after, to all appearance,
having been exposed for a long time, and of those that had
lost their pollinia not one stigmatic surface had pollen grains
applied to it. On another occasion the whole of the florets
examined were unvisited ; while on a third occasion eighty-
nine per cent, of the florets examined had their })olIinia safe in
the anthers, nine per cent, being damaged, either having lost
their labellum or having the column eaten by the larv^ns of a
species of Coccinellidm. One alone was fructified.

I gathered the rather rare Cymhidium stapelioides, growing
at a height of 2600 feet above the sea, flowering on a fallen
tree. I brought it home, 1000 f(n^t lower, and fixed it to a tree-
stem, to which it at once took kindly. None of the flowers
which were expanded when I found it wore fertilised ; but one
of the bulbs had a stem with a solitary capsule. For three
weeks the plant remained in the condition in which I found
it, its largo and handsome, though somewhat dull-coloured,
flowers retaining their perfect freshness during all this eriod.
I then took compassion on its barren state, and fcrtilisetl from

84 A NATUBALISrS WANDERINGS

their neighbours four of its florets. These alone of the sixteen
flowers bore fruit. A couple of months later a fine new spike
appeared, which I left to its own resources. For between four
and five weeks it exhibited a very fine tross of twelve flowers ;
but not one seed-capsule was produced. The insect life at the
lower station seemed quite as abundant as at the higher.
This orchid possesses no nectary, and its odour, if not
pleasant, is not disagreeable. The viscid disk of its pollinia
is remarkable for its elasticity. After removing a pollen
mass from the anther, I applied it to the stigma of another
floret, and on withdrawing the pencil to which it was ad-
heriug, it sprang back witli an audible snap, the viscid disk
stretching quite one-eighth of an inch, without leaving pollen
on the stigma, for the floret did not set a capsule. The same
result followed after allowing the pollen to remain for some
seconds in contact with the stigmatic surface. After the lapse
of a w eek the viscid disk still retained its elasticity unimpaired,
so much so that I was able to extend it as often as ten times
for various distances up to nearly one-fifth of an inch before;
the connection gave way — a sharp snap always accompanying
its relaxation.

One of the prettiest and commonest orchids here was a pure
white Dendrobium (D. cramenatum), which suddenly appears
in flower on all the trees of a district nearly on the same day.
I have examined many hundreds of flowers, and I am quite
sure, though I have not kept very accurate statistics of the
numbers, that not one in eighty ever sets a seed capsule.

Growing terrestrially in abundance in damp shady situa-
tions is another group of this family belonging to the genus
Calanthe. Calanthe veratrifulia produces quite a dense head
of elegant white flowers, but the number of those that become
fertilised are in enormous disproportion to those that fall off
barren. I have examined plants in numerous localities, in
heights amid the dense forest, as well as in more open
situations ; I have studied them low down, both in the sun and
in the deep shade, but have invariably found that a very
small proportion produces fruit. Generally the pollinia are
found in the anther after the fall of the flower ; but often they
are absent, without any pollen being left in return on the
stigma. In five different plants, out of 360 florets examined,

IN JAVA. 85

109 were withering with intact anthers, or had lost their pol-
len and were unfertilised, 245 hud fallen off, six only had
produced capsules. These arc not selected instances, but the
result of the examination of five plants as they occur in my
note-book. I have several times found in various species of
Calanthe, specimens which at first I thought to be deisto-
f/amoushj fertilised, where the ovules were enlarged in the
ovary, and the flowers quite open ; but close examination has
shown tliat this is the eifect of the irritation of a small species
of Hymenoptera — a cynips probably.

Mr, Darwin, in his 'Fertilisation of Orchids,' enumerates
but four instances of self-fertilisation as coming under his
observation, namely : in Ophrys apifera, by the falling forward
of its own pollinia, which are then, by the agency of the wind,
brought into contact w\th the stigma — the plant being capable
also of cross fertilisation ; in Peristylis viridis, which is pos-
sible to be self-fertilised by its own pollen from the head of
the visiting insect; in Cephalanthera grandijiora, which is
perpetually self-fertilised by its pollen grains that rest against
the upper sharp edge of the stigma thrusting down their
pollen tubes into the ovary ; lastly, Bendrohium clirysanthum,
which may possibly be self-fertilised by its own peculiar acro-
batic pollen. In the additional instances here given, some
will be found to be singular and different, I believe, from
any hitherto recorded.*

The genus Phajus is an excoedingly handsome and attrac-
tive coterie of orchids growing in open and sunny places,
throwing up from their large broad root leaves, stout erect
flower-stalks, one and a-half to two feet in height, crowded
with florets. The expanded sepals of PJuijus Blumei mea-
sure laterally from tip to tip twelve to iourteen centimetres.
Their external margins are white and interiorly rich chest-
nut brown ; the labellum is of a beautiful bright imrplc
magenta colour, margined with yellowish white. Its fringed
mouth forms a broad landing-stage for passing insects, for
whose benefit brightly coloured ridges point the way in vain
to the nectary, as, unfortunately for the visitor, it rarely cou-

* From here to the top of page 00 may be luitsecl over by the general
rcaJcr not interested in tliis bubject made so Ai^cinatiug by tl-e .studies cf
Mr. Darwin given in the vohimo referred to above.

86

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

tains any nectar. The column, embraced by the labelliim, is
massive, expanding into a stigma eleven millimetres broad,
secreting an abundance of viscid matter, crowned with the
anther and its pollen, whose caudicles, composed of pollen

FIG. ]. — rH/»JVS BI.rMEI, SHOWING AN-
THER WITH PCLI INIA KEMOVED ;
C, &TIGMA ; F, BASE OF ANTHER ;
0, ROsTELLVjr.

\llie fdUoxcimj figures arc all slightly
diagrammatic.^

FIG. 2. — PHAJUS BLVJIET, SHOWING THE
rOLLlNIA AVALANCHED DOWN-

■\VAED3, CARRYING WITH THEM THE
K0STELLE3I, G ; A, ANTHER-CAP ; T,
SWOLLEN POLLINIA ; C, STIGMA ;
E, TIP OF CAUDICLES OP I'OLLINIA.

grains, protrude their tips from beneath the anther-cap. I exa-
mined more than one hundred and fifty flowers of P. Blumei,
but I did not find one that was not, or could be otherwise than,
self-fertilised. Its essential organs exist in two forms, slightly
but interestingly different.

FIG. 3. — BCD OF PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOW-
ING POLLINIA IN ERECT POSITION;
A, ANTHER-CAP ; B, POLLINIA ; C,
STIGMA ; P, MEDIAN RIDGE.

FIG. 4. — LONGITU INAL SECTION OP
COLUMN OF PHAJUS BLUMEI (SIDE
view) ; A, V, C, D, AS IN FIG. 3 ;
I, BOUNDARY OF STIGMA.

Flowers of the first form have, arching over the deejD and
covered stigma, a well-developed tongue-shaped projection or
rostellum, on which lie the caudicles of the pollinia, which
have no viscid disk (Fig. 1). On each side, tlie rostellum
leaves between itself and the external walls of the column a

IN JAVA.

87

narrow channel by which the viscid matter of the stigma
reaches the anther. In examining an advanced bud, the viscid
matter of the stigma is seen to be in hirge quantity and rather
liquid. It increases with the growth of the flower till it
overflows, — often before the bud opens — and, immediately on
its opening, inundates the pollinia, which now increase in size,
and either avalanc^he downwards, sometimes quite obliterating
the rostellum (Fig. 2, p. 86) ; or, while retaining their position
in the anther, emit their tubes over the narrower portion of
the rostellum into the stylary canal. Very often both anther
and stigma become quite filled up by the multitude of pollen-
tubes and by the swollen pollinia. All these plants produced
large and well-filled seed-capsules on every flower ; but I

0. — FHAJIS BLUMET, SHOWING THE
AXTHEi; EOTATED 1 0WXWAKD3 ; A,
C, A3 IN FIG. 3.

G. — 1 HA JUS liLVSJET, SHOWING A
MOKE ADVANCED STAGE THAN FIG. 5 ;
THE ANTHER-CAP A, HAS OlENEIl ;
B, SWOLLEN POLLINIA ; C, E, AS IN
FIG. 2; K, TIP OF ANTHEU-CAP.

never saw an insect visit the plants during all my observations,
although the i)lants were situated where I could inspect them
constantly throughout the day or night.

Of flowers of the second form, I examined many more examples.
Here there is no rostellum, nevertheless the boundaries of the
stigma are quite distinct (Figs. 3, 4, p. 86). On examining a
young hud, the anther (enclosing the pollinia) is seen standing
vertically erect on the top of the column — i.e. of the detached
column, without reference to its position in the flower — forming
as it were a pointed extension of it, and attached to it by its
minute fihiment. As the flower progresses in growth, the anther-
cap ruptures and rotates forward. AVhen it has descended
through about 90", it occupies (Fig. 5) the position which, if it
possessed a rostellum, it would naturally retain ; but, having

88 A NATURALISTS WANDERINGS

none, it continues to rotate through about 70' more, till it
comes into contact with the face of the column, that is with
the stigmatic cavity, which, is very large, broad and full of viscid
matter (Fig. 6). The whole surface of the lower four pollinia
come into contact with the viscid matter and sink well into it,
while the viscid matter finds its way gradually about all of
the pollinia. The inner members of the upper row of pollinia
sometimes escape this inundation, but it seems of little avail to
the plant for its cross-fertilisation, for they remain throughout
covered by the anther-cap. The tips of the caudicles, how-
ever, remain in most cases unaffected throughout, but I have
found it difficult to remove any of their pollen grains. The
inundated pollinia have no obstacles to bar the way of their
tubes to the ovary. On clearing out with a blunt instrument

F G. 7. — PHAJL'S BLOIEI, SAME AS FIG. 6, FIG. 8. — PHAJIS BLVMET, SHOWING EXTRA
WITH ANTHER-CAP JIEREI.Y DOTTED ANTHER, H ; A, B, C, AS IN PREVIOUS

IN ; A, B, C, AS IN PREVIOUS FIGURES. FIGURES.

the swollen pollinia from the stigma, it can be seen that from
nearly the top of the column, along the posterior median line, a
prominent ridge (Fig. 3, p. 86) runs down almost to the ovarium.
In the light afforded by the dissection of an Arundina speciosa
(to be mentioned below) this would appear to represent the
absent rostellum. Large seed-capsules were produced by every
flower of this form. This Phajus is also remarkable for pro-
ducing, at times two, supernumerary anthers on the top of the
column one on each side of the normal anthers (Fig. 8).

Here then we have an orchid whose flowers present every
attraction to insects to pay at least a first visit (when they
would find no nectar), all of them gay, with a nectary, and
a beautifully painted and finger-posted labellum, yet rarely
possible to be anytliing but self-fertilised.

IX JAVA.

89

I have examined other species of the genus, and found them
to be fertilised in almost identically the same manner.

A not uncommon orchid by the sides of second-growth
forest or banks of streams over all the Archipelago, is the

FIG. 9.— SPATIIOGLOTTIS PLICATA (FROXT

view); a. anther-cap; b.pollixia;

C, CAUDICLES OF rOLLIXfA ; D,
STIGMA ; E, FRONT OF COLUMX ; F,

TIP OF anther-cap; g, flap OF

MARGIN OF STIGMA.

— e,

f:g. 10. — spathoglottis ilicata Cside
view), when anther has rotated
downwards; a, c, e, f, g, as in
fig. 9 ; h, kustellim.

white or purple terrestrial orchid Spatlioglottis plicala, BL,
whose method of fertilisation differs from that of the Phajus.
Its pollinia lie in a rather deep anther, which runs out into a

11. — SPATIIOGLOTTIS PLICATA,

LOXGITIDINAL SECTION (SIDE VIEW);
A, C, E, F, II, AS IN PREVIOIS
figure; B, POLLINIA. [|)IAGI!AM-
MATIC.j

12. SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA.

(frost view), Willi THE ANTHEK
ROTATED DOWN OVER THE STIGMA;
LETTEHS SAME AS IN PREVIOIS
FIGURES.

long shai-j) triangular rostellum far overarching the stigma
(Figs. 10, 11). The pollinia-caudicles, composed of pollen grains,
l)r()tru(h! from l);dow the anther case and lie on the rostidlum,
projecting a little beyond its tip, as seen in the lateral view of

90

A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

the longitudinal section, Fig. 10. The stigma is triangular,
with its apex downwards. There is no nectary. The stigmatic
substance becomes viscid even in the
young bud ; and as soon as the anther has
rotated into its normal position, it begins to
increase in quantity — the increase is often
so great that it bulges out in front of the
rim of the stigma — and, swelling up, flows
over into the anther by the canals (seen in
Fig. 15), between the column and the edge
of the rostellum. Even before the opening
of the flower I have found the external
pollen masses on each side bathed with
the stigmatic fluid, and already exserting
their tubes. These descend by the grooves
I have mentioned on both sides to the
stylary canal. Concomitant with the flood-
ing of the anther there has been taking place a slow approxi-
mation of the under side of the rostellum to the lower lip of
the stio-ma, till its lobes finally embrace the rostellum, bind-
ing down the whole anther (Figs, l!>, 12), so that when the

FIG. 13. — SrATHOGLOTTIS
I'LICATA SAME A3 FIG. 12,
KUT WITH ANTHEU-CAP
RE3I0VED ; B, C, G, AS IN
FIG. 12.

■JB-

FIG, 14. — SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA(fROXT

VIEW) diagkammatic, showing

KOCTE TO THE STYLARY CANAL
TAKEN BY POLLEN TUBES, li" ; A, B,
C, F, AS IN FIG. 10.

F:G. 15. — SP.\THOGLOTTIS PLICATA ; THE
APEX OP THE COLL-MN, WITH THE
POLLINIA EEMOVLD ; SHOWING THE
MARGINAL CANALS BETWEEN THR
C0LU3I.>C-WALL AND 'J HE FLOOU, I, OF
THE anther; H, the ROSTELLUM,

act of fertilisation has been completed the stigma is almost
obliterated, leaving no room for any foreign pollen to be
applied to its surface. The direction taken by the pollen
tubes is shown somewhat diagrammatically in Fig. 11, The
pollen grains of the caudicles of the pollinia remain as a rule
unaffected, but, not being at all viscid, they are not easily

IN JAVA.

91

removable. The operations here described are oftea completed
before the opening of the Spatlioglottis at all.

Of the orchids I gathered here none interested me more

FIG. 16. — ARCXDIXA SPECIOSAj A, B, E, FIG. 17. — AKUXIjIXA SI ECIOiSA I^HVD) ;

AS FIG. 17 ; c, rrPER margix, and a, top of crest of axther-cap ;

D, LOWER and side FLAPS OF B, POLLIXIA ; D, LOWKIJ 3IARGIN' OF

STIG3IA. STIGMA ; E, STIGMA ; F, FROXT OF

COLUMX.

than the Arundina spsciosa, Bl. This cane-like species grows
to a height of between five and six feet, ])roducing without
intermission for many months a succession of large and
beautiful purple flowers. The labellum is tubular, and has a

FIG. 18. — ARINDIXA SPLCI03A SHOWING
ANTIIEU QIITE ROTATED INTO
GTIGMA ;.D, I.OWEIt FLAPS OF STIGMA
CLOSING DOWN ANTHER-CAP ; A, F,
AS IN FIG. 17.

FIG. 19. — AUtNDINA SPECIOSA SHOWING
POLLINIA ROTATED INTO STIGMA
AND THE FRONT OF COLCMN, F,
lUIIST ■WITH SWOLLEN POLLEN
TIDES. ANTHER-CAP REMOVEP.

broad fringed dark purple margin, from which radiate deeper
lines converging towards the bright yellow throat, where they
merge in two ridges leading to the shallow nectar-depression
at the base of tlie column.

In the very young bud (Fig. IG) the column is crowned with

92

A NATURALISrS WANDEBINGS

its anther erect on the posterior part of the column. Underneath
is the stigma, of a roughly square shape, its upper rim standing
erect in front of the pollinia, rising to about one third of their
height as atriangular eminence, which corresponds with the front
margin of the rostellar platform. It is not in every flower that
the shape of the stigma can be seen well, for the stage presently
to be described begins very soon, often before the flower is
expanded ; and only by the examination of a very large series
have I been able to follow the modifications that have
occurred.

Concurrent with or even before the commencement of
the rotation of the anther into its normal position some in-

FIO. 20. — ARUKDINA SPECIOjA, SHOWIXG
A SECTION OF COLUJIN OPENED FliOM
BEHIND ; C, TOP OF UPPER MAR-
GIN OF STIGMA (COURESrONDING TO

F.C8rELLrM);c-,poi;TioN OF stigma;

G, STYLAIiY CANAL.

FIG. 21. — ARLNDINA SPEC:OSA, BID SHOW-
ING THE IPPER KIM OF STIGMA
ALREADY INVERTED DOWN THE
STYLAItY' canal; LETTERS AS IN
FIG. 17.

fluence — ^which I do not know— causes the upper margin of the
stigma to become inverted close down the posterior wall of the
stylary canal, as seen in Fig. 17, and in longitudinal section
opened from heliind in Fig. 20, where the rostellum is seen hang-
ing down the canal as a narrow band. Fig. 21 rej)resents a very
young bud, in which, thongh the pollinia had scarcely begun
to rotate, the stigma had become already much modified, and is
in waiting for the rotation of the pollinia. Along with this in-
vagination of the upper margin of the stigma (the rostellum) its
lower lip is in consequence dragged (?) upwards. Dissections
of the column showed that the rostellum goes on elongating
down the stylary canal, as in Fig. 20, while the pollinia, slowly
continuing to rotate downwards, finally precipitate them-
selves into the stigma, whose flap-like margins embrace the

IN JAVA.

93

anther-cap, as seen in Fig. 18 and in 19, where the anther-cap
is removed.

On the conclusion of these singular movements no remains
of the stigma can be seen. As a rule these operations are con-
cluded before the full expanding of the flower, whose petals,
after remaining expanded for only a
few hours, fade, and, closing round the
column, exclude any intruder from dis-
turbing the interesting and mysterious
rites of nature being enacted within.
I have found that in some cases the
rostellum (the upper margin of the
stigma) is not invaginated down the
stylary canal, but retains the more
natural orchideal form of a broad flat
floor to the anther, projecting far over
the stio^ma as seen in Fijs:. 22. When
the flower of Arundina speciosa has this
rare form it invariably, as far as my
observations enable me to speak, falls off unfertilu'ed. The
pollinia also lie far back in the anther, and are entirely con-
cealed by the anther-case, which fits close down all round. An
insect, to secure the pollinia, would require to alight on the

FIG. 22. — .\RUXD1XA SPECIOSA,
SHOWING THE SECOND FORM
OF FLOWER; E, F, AS IN
FIG. 16 ; I, RIDGE OX FLOOK
OFAXTHEU H; K, BOVXDARY
OF ANTHER-CAP.

FIG. 23

FIGS. 23 AND 24. — ERIA SP., NEAR TO E. J.WENSIS ; A, ANTHER-CAP, IN FIG. 23,
SHRIVELLED IP; B, POLLINIA; u", POLLINIA SWOLLEN AFTER FALLING INTO
STIGMA ; D, ROSTELLUM ; E, STIGMA.

margin of the rostelhir platform and lift up the anther case, a
difficult operation, which supposing it to have successfully
accomplished, it might wander far to find a stigma to apply
the pollen so obtained to, for its own form of organs does not

8

94

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

probably occur on a second floret of its own species, within a
wide area. Flowers with this conformation, however, remain
expanded and fresh for several days, in marked contrast to
those of the first form, which close up in a very few hours.

In the median line of the upper surface of the rostellum
there is a well-marked ridge (Fig. 22) which runs out to the tip
to form the central promontory of the rostellum. In describing
Phajus Blumei I remarked that there existed on the back of the
stigma a prominent ridge running down nearly to the ovary.
Now if we were to suppose the ridged rostellum of Arundina
to become adherent to the back of the stigma instead of
hanging down free, we should have such a ridge as is seen in

FIG. 25.

riG. 25. — CHRTSOGLOSSUM SP. THE FIG. OV THE LEFT REPRESENTS TWO FLORETS
ON FLOWER STEM ; THAT OX THE RIGHT ONE CLEISTOGAllOCSLY FEKTILISED.

Phajus ; so that it is probable that the ridge in the latter
plant may be the remnant of its rostellum adherent to the
back of the stigma.

Abundant on trees at 2000 feet above the sea, I gathered the
dull-flowered Eria alhido-iomentosa, remarkable for having its
perianth densely covered with a felty mass of white wool. Its
anther is separated by a rim-like rostellum from the broad and
rather shallow stigma. Out of sixty flowers which I examined at
various times, I did not find one otherwise than self-fertilised
while still in the bud, by the viscid matter of the stigma swelling

IN JAVA.

95

up and inundating, by the cliannels at the side of the rostellum,
at least the most external pollen masses on each side. These
poUinia emit their tubes over the rim of the rostellum, almost
obliterating it, into the stylary canal. On the opening of the
flower and the retraction of the anther-case, the most internal
pollinia may sometimes be found in the condition of loose
grains unaffected by the inundation of viscid matter. In its
fertilisation this species of Eria seems to resemble Bendrobium
chrysantlmm.

The mode of fertilisation described as occurring in Ophrijs
apifera by Mr. Darwin, I found to be followed very closely by
a species of Eria near to E. javensis, in which the anther-cap
shrivels up backwards after rupturing, so as to disclose the

FIG. 26,

FIG. 26a.

FIG. 2o. — CnUYSOGLOSSCM SP. ; A, ANTHER-CAP; B, POLLIKIA IX SITU; 0,
STIGMA ; D, VPPER 3IARGIN OF STIGMA ; E, LOWER MARGIN OP

STIGMA. FIG. 26a. SECTION OF SAME. THE VISCID JIATTER FLOWS

OVER THE MARGIN, D, INTO THE ANTHER.

pollinia, which at once, even when quite shaded from wind and
all other disturbances, begin a slow tortuous movement, during
which they fall into their own stigmas, as seen in Fig. 23, p. 93.
In a species of terrestrial orchid unknown to me, but nearly
related, if not belonging to the genus ChrysogJossum, I
found thes(! contrivances for ejecting self-fertilisation carried
to their extreme limit, by its fertilising itself without ever
opening its florets at all (Figs. 25, 20). I observed them in
the forest, as well as grew a few of them in 3Ir. Lash's garden,
and every specimen was fertilised in the same way. In oi)ening

96

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

its locked-up petals, I found the labellum beautifully marked
with lines of purple, carmine and orange, and the column also ;
but no insect eye could ever be fascinated or allured by its
painted whorls.

In the rather inconspicuous Goodijera procera self-fertilisa-
tion takes place by the swelling up of the viscid matter of the
stigma beyond its true boundary, till it touches, as seen in
Fig. 28, the viscid disk of the pollinia, and spreads into the
pollinia chamber. I have no doubt this takes place in many
other species of Goodijera, and very probably also in our own
Highland species, Goodyera repens. Other species which I have

FIG. 28.

GOODTEEA PROCERA ; A, SWOLLEN TV CAfDICLES OF POLLIMA (SOMEWHAT EXAG-
GERATED) ; B, SPLIT ROSTELLrJI, SHOWING IN FIG. 28 THE DISK OF POLLINIA ;
C, STIGMA ; D, fPPER MARGIN OF STIGMA BEFORE STIGMATIG FLUID HAS BEGUN
TO SWELL ; E, THE STIGMATIG FLUID SAVOLLEN UP.

not been able to designate by name presented similar or allied
modifications for securing self-fertilisation.

To me was especially interesting the purple Arimdina,
which one might imagine to have become tired of vainly
displaying its beauty to wayward and inappreciate butterflies
and bees, and had assumed a form that should — let all the
glittering humming wings pass heedless as they would — per-
petuate a fertile race.

These instances go to show that the rule that " the flowers
of orchids are fertilised by the pollen of other flowers " is not
so universal as has been supposed. It is to be feared that too
often the interesting cases of flowers observed to be cross-
fertilised by insects have been recorded, while those of flowers
otherwise fertilised have not been mentioned, so that the law

IN JAVA. 97

of cross-fertilisation in orchids has been in clanger of being
unduly magnified, from the absence of evidence on the other
side.

The estate of Kosala derives its name from the rounded hill
above the house. The word is of Sanscrit origin, but its
meaning is unknown. It is a country along the bank of the
Sarayu, forming a part of the modern province of Oude. It
was the pristine kingdom of a solar race, and in the time of
Buddha its principal city was Sewet (Sravasti). There is
another Kosala in the Deccan (Daksliina Kosala) ; so Kosala
or Kusala is the name of a land or a race. Ala occurs as a
termination in many names of countries, but the root Kosh or
Kush has such an immense variety of significations that it is
impossible to find a good translation for it.

The city of Sewet in Kosala was visited in a.d. 401 by
the Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Fah-hian, and where he saw
the famous sandal-wood figure made by order of the king of
Kosala. He found at some distance from the city a copse
called Aptanetravana ("recovered sight"), where originally
five hundred blind men lived who were restored to sight by
Buddha. The blind men threw their staves on the ground,
which forthwith grew up into trees and formed a sacred
grove or copse. The name has most probably come down
from Hindoo times to the present associated with some
sacred legend whose influence hovers still over the spot ;
for when the coffee gardens were being made the natives
refused to fell the forest that grew on the Kosala hill,
and only under compulsion could they then be persuaded to
enter it.

Under its shade there stand several mounds, blocks, and slabs
which Mr. Lash conducted me one day to see. On entering
the forest we were somewhat surprised to find a portion of the
ground newly cleared of underwood from about several of the
stones, and against them standing the remnants of small
torches of sweet gums which had been offered before them, I
felt certain that this was the work of none of the surrounding
people who were afraid to enter the copse.

I decided therefore to make a full survey of the buried
ruins, and after some difficulty I succeeded in securing, for a
consideration, the services of a youth who was willing to

98

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

brave with me the wrath of the guardian spirits of the grove,
and assist me in the sacrilegious work of hewing which my
operations would entail.

In the immediate neighbourhood, was discovered a bronze
bell of undoubted Hindoo manufacture, its handle ornamented
with the sacred bull, but without the clapper which had
dropped from its ring ; and within the boundaries of the
grove stands a rude figure of the Buddha, with elevated finger,
as if in the act of instructing.

The ruins consist of terraces built up round the hill, which
probably once encircled it entirely, but part of which has
evidently extended where now the coffee plantation exists,
and has been obliterated perhaps in the cultivation of forest
patches by the natives in former jjeriods. Only the portion
surrounding for some distance that used by the worshippers has

EGG-SHAFED STONE FROM THE KARAXG'S GliOVE.

been left unmolested. There the terraces are completely laid
out in quadrilateral enclosures, their boundaries marked out by
blocks of stone laid or fixed in the ground, which with singular
exactitude lie within a degree of the true magnetic cardinal
points. Here and there on the terraces are more prominent
monuments — erect pillars surmounting oval piles of stones ;
flat slabs on the ground supporting egg-shaped blocks, which
are distributed in many sjsots in such numbers and perfection
of shape that to have made them or searched the brooks for
them must have entailed a vast expenditure of time and
trouble. Here and there also I found flat slabs raised on end
and remains of circular paved areas, set round with upright
blocks of stone. Specially noteworthy was a pillar, erect
within a square marked out with stones on the ground, round

IX JAVA, 99

which the worshippers had plaited a fringe of Areng palm
leaves. This same stone is thus decorated at every visit
made by the worshippers to the sacred grove.

At the base of two of the stones, where perhaps they have
lain for unknown time, I found an earthenware jar, both of
them somewhat broken, but of elegant shape and artistic
design, not of ordinary native pattern or workmanship ; but,
besides these jars, the egg-shaped stones and the image, all
the monuments were of rough stone and without inscription or
sign of handicraft. At the base of all the principal mounds
and pillars I found remains of their offerings.

I learnt that the worshippers belonged to the tribe called
the Karangs or Kalangs, who lived in a village lying several
days' journey to the southward. Four times a year a proces-

EARTUEN'WABE POT FROM THE KARAXG'S GROVE.

sion of old men and youths repairs, by paths known only
to themselves, through the dense intervening forest in a diiect
course by valley and mountain, to this sacred grove ; the old
men to worship and make offering, the youths to see and
leam the mysterious litany of their fathers. The old men lead
the way ; the rest follow in single file, no one breaking the
silence of their journey, k^hould any one be encountered by
them on the way their pilgrimage is considered for that time
unpropitious, and they return to their village to wait for a
more favourable occasion. On their arrival with early
morning at the grove they camp in a small hut, cleanse the
ground about the sacred mounds, and perform during the
night or on the following day the rites known to them-
selves alone; iu the evening they take their departure to an

100

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS.

adjoining valley, where below a great overhanging rock they
wait till break of next day, when they return home in a
similar secret and silent manner to their coming. They all
wear garments of cloth striped with black and white.

Raffles* has given an interesting and full account of these
people in his ' History of Java' from which I make the follow-
ing extract : " They were at one time numerous in various parts
of Java, leading a wandering life, practising religious rites
different from those of the great body of the people, and avoid-
ing intercourse with them, but most of them are now reduced
to subjection, and are become stationary in their residence,
having embraced the Mahomedan religion. In a few villages
their peculiar customs are still preserved. Although by tra-

EABTUENWAEE POT FROM THE KABANG S GROVE,

dition their descent is from a princess of Mendang, Kamulan,
and a chief transformed into a dog, they have claims to be
considered the actual descendants of the aborigines of the
island. Jhey are represented as having a great veneration
for a red dog, one of which is generally kept by each family,
which they will not permit to be struck or ill-used.f When a
young man asks a girl in marriage he must prove descent

* For additional information the reader is referred to Tijdschrift v. Ned,
Jnd. i. jaarg. ii. deel, p. 295 et seq. : iv. j. ii. 217 ; vii. j. iv. 335 et seq. ;
Bijdragen v. Ind. T. L. ea V,-Kunde, iii. Volgreeks, iv. deel. ; Indisches Maga-
zine, 1845.

f "According to the Zend Avesta, certain dogs have the power of protecting
the departed spirits from the demons lying in wait for it on the perilous
passage of the narrow bridge over the abyss of hell ; and a dog is always led
in funeral processions, and made to look at the corpse." — Macmil. Mag.,
" Village Life in the Apeunincs," June 1879.

IN JAVA. 101

from their peculiar stock. When the Kalangs moved from
one place to another, they were conveyed in carts, with two
solid wheels with a revolving axle, drawn by two pairs of
buffaloes, according to the circumstances of the party. In
these were placed the materials of huts, implements of
husbandry, &c. In this manner, until forty or fifty years ao-o,
they were continually moving from one part of the island to
another. They have still their separate chiefs, and preserve
many of their customs. They are treated with contempt by
their Sundanese neighbours, so that ' Kalang ' is considered an
epithet of contempt and disgrace."

Living despised and secluded in villages apart by them-
selves, they follow the rites and customs that have descended
to them from their forefathers with the superstitious awe
that comes of ignorance. The pillars in the centre of rudely
circular heaps, as perhaps also the ovoid blocks resting on
tablets and other shaped slabs, point no doubt to the celebra-
tion here of phallic rites and to the worship of the Linga and
Yoni, the emblems of Siva and Yishnu. It is interesting to
find the goblets or vases at the base of the upright pillars;
they point probablv to the " mystic vessels or goblets in
the hands of Siva in the image of this god in Indian temples
in central Java." Not less significant is the upright stone
decked with palm-leaf fringe, a symbol round which these
rude and ignorant villagers, following their blind traditions,
weave to this day hangings, "just as the women did for
the Ashera in the Jewish temple, and the xVthenian maidens
[following their old traditions] embroidered the sacred peplos
for the ships presented to Athene at the Dionysiac festival "
(Cox).

In standing under the forest amid these ancient remains, I felt
as if I were having an unbroken view down the ages to distant
antiquity ; these relics still warm, as they were, with the inter-
mittent fires which have been kept alive from the dim
past till now, and echoing with the footsteps of the rude
worshippers who, unaftected by the incessant waves of change
that have broken about them, are themselves as much ancient
monuments as the very blocks of weather-beaten, lichen-
matted trachyte, whose purpose is lost to their traditions, before
which they torpidly mutter a litany they do not comprehend

102 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

and listlessly perfume the air, they know not why, with the
odours of their incense.

Not far distant from the Karang dwellings lies the sacred
village of Tjibeo, inhabited by the Badui, containing never
more nor fewer than forty souls. If their number be increased
by birth the overplus must go out and reside in one or other
of three neighbouring villages ; if their number decrease the
deficit must be made up from among the Outsiders, as they call
these extraneous villagers. No foot but one of their own — not
even of the highest European official — may cross the sacred
boundary, which at some distance hedges the sanctity of their
abodes. Like the Rodiyas of Ceylon, they eat carrion and the
flesh of animals offensive to their neighbours ; flesh of buffalo
they may eat, but they may not kill the animal themselves,
and of fowl also if the life have not been taken by the letting
of its blood, but by a stroke on the head. They wear only a
short loin-cloth, whose colour must never be other than white
striped with black.* In speaking to any one not of their
own stock, of however high a rank he be, they use the
pronouns by which a suj^erior distinctly indicates that he is
addressing his inferior. At various periods of the year they
also pay mysterious and religious rites to rude venerated
blocks of stone, arranged in terraces near their village. The
Kalangs are probably an oflshoot of the same stock as the
Badui, though they are not reckoned among those outsiders
who may be received to make up a deficiency in the sacred
Forty of Tjibeo, nor do they worship at their shrines. On the
high Tengger Mountains, in the east of Java, a colony with
rites and customs similar to those of the Badui exists in all
the isolation and opprobrium that a schismatic religion can call
out.

AYith the exception of the Karangs and the Badui, the
entire population of Bantam profess the Mahomedan religion,
which however seems to be merely a lusty and fanatical graft
on the pagan superstitions of the ancient times.

* "A magnificent robe haviiig beeu given to Gotama, his attendant
Ananda, in order to destroy its intrinsic value, cut it into thirty pieces and
sewed them together in four divisions, so tliat the robe resembled the patches
of a vice-field, divided by embankments, and in conformity with this precedent
the robe of every priest was similarly dissected and reunited." — Henry's
' Eastern Monachism,' chap. xii. p. 117. Can the striped garments of tho
Kalangs and Badui have any reference to the above tradition 'i

7^ JAFA. 103

On 3[ount Dangka and on the summits of many of the
neighbouring hills I stumbled on groves containing either
rocks naturally i>i situ, or stones that had been placed there,
which my porters refused to enter for fear of being affected by
some sickness or misfortune. " They are Patapahaan " (places
of penance and worship), they would say, and are the sacred
spots where they believe their ancestors who, refusing to
embrace ^Mahomedanism, fled to the forests, vanished in invi-
sible forms. Whenever calamity overtakes them — when their
crops have failed or they are childless — they repair (in
greatest numbers during the month of the chief Mahomedan
fast — Ramadan) to these Tapa, where they will spend days
of fasting and awesome terror, in the hope that the spirits of
their transfigured forefathers will grant them the desire of
their hearts. In dire sickness, when the slender list of their
pharmacopoeia has been exhausted, they will as a last resource
send to gather lichens from the sacred stones of the despised
Ealangs or the Badui, in the belief that a decoction therefrom
will avail to ward off or heal their sickness.

It is quite a common thing to encounter by the wayside
near a village, or in a rice-field, or below the shade of a great
dark tree, a little platform with an ofiferingof rice and prepared
fruits to keep disease and blight at a distance, and propitiate
the spirits ever lying in wait in gloomy, sunless (and naturally
depressing) spots to harm the passer by. This fear of lurking
evil ever oppresses their lives. No one can be found brave
enough to touch a man struck to the ground, for instance,
by lightning; they will cover him up where he fell, Avith
leaves or generally with stable dung, and commit his re-
covery to nature. If he recover, well and good ; but to carry
him from the spot, to lift him or meddle with him while un-
conscious, would be to cry down the Avenger's displeasure on
their own head.

In the month of January 1880, Dr. Scheffer, the then Di-
rector of the Buitenzorg CJardens, wrote to me that, as much
virji-in forest was being felled among the mountains not far
from the Government Cinchona Plantations in the adjoining
province of the Prcanger, a good ojiportunity offered itself of
increasing my herbarium. This was not a chance to let slip,
80, bidding a reluctant farewell to Kosala, I set off for Buitenzorg

104 A NATURALISrS WANDERINGS

by the direct foot-road through the forest. The only sound
which disturbed the woods was the " Kang-kang-kong " of the
"bird of the rainy season," as the native has named a species
which disappears or is silent during the dry monsoon — a bird
I could never catch a sight of, however, notwithstanding my
most warv stalkins;.

7^ JAVA. 105

CHAPTER III.

SOJOURN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE TREANGER REGENCIES.

Leave Buitenzorg for the Preanger Eegencies — Journey to Bandong in a
Post-cart — Bandong — Thence to Pengelengan — Visit to the famous
Cinchona Gardens of the Government — Plant-life in the surrounding
mountains — The Upas tree — Crater flora — Land-sUps and the power
of rain — Interesting birds — The Badger-headed Mydaus — The Banteng,
or wild cattle — Wild dogs — Leave Pengelengan for Batavia.

After a few days of preparation for my new tour spent in
Buitenzorg, I sent off my baggage to the Preanger in the care
of a string of coolies, and secured for myself a seat at the mode-
rate rate of twenty cents per mile in the mail-cart which every
evening leaves Buitenzorg for Bandong. The mail-cart was
not the most luxurious, but it was the cheapest and certainly the
most expeditious way of getting over the ground. This cart was
a rough edition of our own mail-gig — simply a box on wheels —
whose cushionless and slippery top formed a most uncomfort-
able seat, yet I would not have missed the. ride for a good deal.
We started with a couple of stout ponies yoked tandem-wise,
and in place of side lamps our way was lighted by an immense
torch made of splints of bamboo some seven feet long tied
together, which a youth, who straddle-wise clung on behind,
held to the wind to keep it ablaze.

Our road lay over the ]\regamendoeng Pass, 4503 feet above
the sea. At first the gradient was not very steep, and we
proceeded at a fine pace. Towards every post-station, five
miles apart all along the road, our progress was heralded by
loud shouts, and by the louder shot-like whip-crackings that
these drivers are famed for. At each station a halt of three or
four minutes sufficed to put in the fresh horses standing ready
for us, out blazed a fresh flaming torch, and our plunging and
kicking steeds were off again, at a gallop which by voice and
whip waS' not allowed to flag until we pulled up under the

106 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

next station. By and by the ascent became steeper, and our
team had to be augmented by the addition of a buffalo in
front of our horses ; further up a second was added, till at last
the equine was altogether discarded for the bovine element.

Under the soothing evenness of their progress I might have
dropped into a pleasant doze ; but the night was so beautiful
that I preferred to enjoy the picturesque effect produced by
the light of the torches on our team and their drivers — who
were dressed in short red trousers, deep yellow jackets, and
their tartan sarongs thrown sash-wise across their shoulders,
and wore immense hats more than two feet in diameter ; and
to lose none of the charm of the bright starlit night and the
fire-flies that illuminated with their fitful light the borders
of the forest through which we were ascending whose low moan
was the only sound that broke the stillness of the night, for
the driver had coiled himself up as best he could, and was fast
asleep, and the buffalo-boys walked like mutes at a funeral.

At about midnight we reached the summit of the pass, where
it was so cold that I was glad to crouch by the fire of a small hut
there, while the buffaloes were being changed. The place of
the oxen was now taken by a single horse, which, urged at a
pace more swift than safe, carried us down the mountain side
into a warmer region in a very short time. The up-hill seat
might have been more comfortable ; but the down-hill ride
Avas interspersed with practical lessons in dynamics which
rather tended to disagree with the general quiet order of one's
internal arrangements, yet the sensation of being whirled
along at such a rapid speed was full of exhilaration and great
pleasure. At 3 a.m. we pulled up at our half-way house —
the post-office at Tjandjoor — where I was checked off with the
rest of the baggage which had been consigned to the driver at
Buitenzorg, re-booked for the remainder of the journey, and
handed over to the charge of a new Jehu to be delivered at
his destination.

Bej-ond Tjandjoor the road passed through a more level
country, leading to the deep valley of the Tjitaroom. As
there was no bridge over the ravine we were, on arriving at
the near bank, assisted to alight by what seemed a regiment
of walking torches, and. with cart and horses transported on a
bamboo raft to the further side, where two buffalo friends were

IN JAVA. 107

in waiting to haul us up the long steep bank out of the gorge,
beyond which the road was easy, and the horses, urged to their
utmost speed, dashed along through village alter village,
rousing the dogs and awakening the sleepers. The night
growing into day brought us one of the pleasantest portions of
our drive. The grey tints of the short dawn passing gradually
through many lovely hues into a delicate blue, and the fresh
wooded landscape lit up by the morning sun more charmingly
than at any other hour of the day, are the beauties, never
wearying to the eye, that accompany the opening of a tropical
day. At 8 a.m. we drew rein at Bandong post-office, having
accomplished somewhat over eighty miles in thirteen hours.

Bandong is the chief town of the Preanger Regencies, one
of the largest and richest residencies in Java. In this province
the Government has some of its most extensive coffee gardens,
tobacco and cinchona plantations. The town is large and
straggling, containing but few European houses ; its most
interesting building is the residence of the Eegent or native
governor of the district. In front of his door is a great square,
in the centre of which a giant fig-tree grows, beneath whose
shade on high days the natives congregate to sport and to
pay respect to the chief. Though some 2000 feet above the
sea it is hot and close at all seasons, and is not a very pleasant
place to live in. The larger part of the trading population is
Chinese and Arab, the natives taking little or no part in it ;
but the district is noted for its beautiful ornamental baskets
of bamboo wicker-work.

Bandong stands in the centre of an immense level plain
hemmed in on all sides by very high mountains — most of
them volcanoes — which discharge their streams into it, whose
waters can find only one outlet, the Tjitaroom, which issues
from the western angle and fl(jws northward into the Java Sea.
In prehistoric times this plain must have been one large lake,
till, by the convulsions and eruptions of the volcanic peaks
that banked it in, a gap was formed, which drained off the
water, and turned its bottom into a fruitful field. On the
whole one would have preferred the lake, and Java could then
have boasted of one respectable fresh-water sea, a feature of
beauty conspicuously and unexpectedly absent from so moun-
tainous and volcanic a country.

108 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

After resting a day in Bandong I proceeded to my destina-
tion, some thirty miles farther to the south. For fifteen miles
of the way it was possible to drive in a spring cart, which I
hired in the town ; but the rest of the road, which rises to 4500
feet, is very steep, and had to be accomplished on horseback.

The road in the lower districts, shaded at short intervals by
leafy Hibiscus trees, passed between hedges of bright yellow-
purple- and red-flowering Lantana ; higher up broad patches
of pink balsam (Impatiens), shady Alhizzias, purple Bin-
tino {Lagerstrsemia), tall tree-ferns and a shrubby species
of Cassia bearing large trosses of bright golden flowers, were
met with. A little higher a sjDccies of Datura, with broad
leaves and large white trumpet-shaped flowers, suddenly
became abundant. Being utilised by the natives as boundary
hedges for their coffee-gardens, it formed by the size and
abundance of its flowers a marked feature of the vegetation.

Five or six hours of slow ascent brought us at last to Pen-
gelengan, a small village lying at an elevation of 4500 feet
above the sea, on an undulating plateau formed by the inner
slopes of the Malawar, Wayang and Tilu mountains, whose
summits range from 6000 to 7500 feet, and at several points
command a view of the South Indian Ocean. On the out-
skirts of the village was a comfortable and convenient Govern-
ment bungalow, in which visitors to this rather out-of-the-way
spot could, with the permission of the Resident (always wil-
lingly granted), be accommodated for a time. Here I was in
the centre of one of the great Government coffee districts, and
in the vicinity of its cinchona plantations on the slopes of the
surrounding mountains.

One of my first visits was paid to the ' Bark ' gardens in order
to see in a living state these famous trees, and especially that
species with cream-coloured flowers, the Cinchona Ledgeriana,
Avhich had attained so great a celebrity, and could in 1880
be seen, excepting in our Himalayan gardens, almost nowhere
else but in the Dutch plantations. It is now little more
than thirty years since the Netherlands Indian Government
began to cultivate cinchona. Their first seed was brought
by Haskarl, of the Botanical Gardens in Buitenzorg, who
had been deputed by the then Colonial Minister to visit
Peru to see the tree in its native forests and bring home

IX JAVA. 109

with liiui a collection of what seeds he could find. He was
unfortunately very unsuccessful, and obtained seeds of only
very inferior sorts. In 1S66 the Government purchased, for
less than £50, a small quantity of seed of a supposed variety
of C. calisaya sent from America by 3Ir. Charles Ledger. So
well had this species been propagated that there were nearly
one million trees, worth more than a million and a half of
money, in the gardens, raised from the seed then purchased.

It is well known that cinchona is so liable to hybridisation
that it is very difficult to obtain pure seedlings from the seed
even of pure trees, the offspring containing very often less
alkaloids than their parents. An experiment, which has proved
a great success, was made by Dr. Moens of grafting on the easily
reared and quickly growing C. succiruhra stems, shoots from
the highest alkaloid-yielding trees. They have been found to
grow very rapidly and to reproduce pretty regularly tlie same
proportion of alkaloids as the trees from which the grafts were
cut. Of Mr. Ledger's variety, now raised to the rank of a new
species by Dr. Moens, the seed-raised trees may be of many
degrees of value, but all contain a far higher percentage of
quinine than any other species. I gathered as a memento of
my visit some flowers from trees whose bark yielded, with a
trace only of any other alkaloid, the extraordiuary amount of
ten and even thirteen per cent, of pure quinine. Continued
cultivation has therefore, it would seem, vastly developed
the amount of quinine that these Ledgerianas contain,
compared with what tliey yield in their native forests of
Bolivia.

The story of how the seed of this priceless tree (which can
now be propagated ad Jilitum) reached the Old AVorld is so in-
teresting that I have extracted a few paragraphs from a letter of
its introducer, ^Ir. Charles Ledger, in the i*^/e/fZ of Fob. 5, 1881,
addressed to his brother, evoked by an account of the Dutch
Gardens I had contributed to the same journal in 1880 :

" While engaged in my alpaca enterprise in 185G, a Bolivian
Indian, 3Ianu('l Tucra 3Iamani, formerly and afterwards a
cinchona bark-cutter, was accompanying me with two of liis
sons. He accompanied me in almost all my frecpicnt journeys
into the interior, and was very useful in examining tht* large
quantities of cinchona bark and alpac.i wool I was constantly
9

ilO A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

purchasing. He and his sons were very much attached to
me, and 1 phxced every confidence in them. Sitting round our
camp-fire one evening, as was my custom after dinner, convers-
ing on all sorts of topics, I mentioned what I had read as to
Mr. Clement R. Markham's mission [in search of cinchona-
seeds]. Now Manuel had been with me in three of my
journeys into the cinchona districts of the Yungas of
Bolivia, where I had to go looking after laggard contractors
for delivery of bark. It was while conversing on the subject
of Mr. Markham's journey, and wondering which route he
would take, &c., that Manuel greatly surprised me by saying :
' The gentleman will not leave the Yungas in good health if
he really obtains the Rogo plants and seeds,' Manuel was
always very taciturn and reserved. 1 said nothing at the time,
there being some thirty more of my Indians sitting round the
■large fire. The next dny he reluctantly told me how every
stranger on entering the Yungas was closely watched un-
observed by hmiself ; how several seed-collectors had their
seed changed ; how their germinating power was destroyed
by their own guides, servants, &c. He also showed me how
all the Indians most implicitly believe, if by plants or seed
from the Yungas, the cinchonas are successfully propagated in
other countries, all their own trees will perish. Such, I assure
you, is their superstition. Although there are no laws prohibit-
ing the cinchona seed or plants being taken out of the country,
I have seen private instructions from the Prefect in La Paz,
ordering strictest vigilance to prevent any person taking seed
or plants out of the country. More than half-a-dozen times I
have had my luggage, bedding, ka., searched when coming out
of the valley of the Yungas. [i\[r. Ledger unsuccessfully
attempted to communicate with Mr. Markham, who was not
permitted to enter Bolivia.] *

" You are aware how I am looked upon as a doctor by the
Indians. Well, one day I said : * Manuel, I may some day
require some seed and flowers of the famous white flower,
rogo cascarrilla, as a remedy ; and I shall rely on your not
deceiving me in the way you have told me.' He merely
said, ' Patron, if you ever require such seed and flowers, I will
not deceive you.' And I thought no more about it.
* Cf. Markham's ' Travels in Peru and India.'

IN JAVA. Ill

" Manuel was never aware of my requiring seed and leaves
for propagating purposes ; he was always told they were
wanted to make a special remedy for a special illness. For
many years, since 1814, I had felt deeply interested in seeing
Europe, and my own dear country in particular, free from
being dependent on Peru or Bolivia for its supply of life-givino-
quinine. Remembering and relying on Manuel's promise to
me in 1856, 1 resolved to do all in my pov.er to obtain the very
best cinchona seed produced in Bolivia.

" His son Santiago went to Australia with me in 1858. In
18G1, the day before sending back to South America Santiago
and other Indians who had accompanied me there as shepherds
of the alpacas, I bought 200 Spanish dollars, and said to him :
' You will give these to your father. Tell him I count on his
keeping his promise to get for me forty to fifty pounds of rogo
cinchona (white flower) seed. He must get it from trees we
had sat under together when trying to reach the Mamore
river in 1851 ; to meet me at Tacna (Peru) by May 1863. If
not bringing pure, ripe rogo seed, flowers and leaves, never to
look for me again.'

" I arrived back in Tacna on the 5th of January, 1805. I
at once sent a message to IManuel, informing him of my
arrival. At the end of ^tay he arrived with his precious seed.
It is only now, some twenty-four years after poor Manuel
promised not to deceive me, manifest how faithfully and
loyally he kept his promise. I say jjoor Manuel, because,
as you know, he lost his life while trying to get another
supply of the same class of seed for me in 1872-3. You are
aware too how later on I lost another old Indian' friend, poor
Poli, when bringing seed and flowers in 1877.

" I feel thoroughly convinced in my own mind that such
astonishingly rich quinine-yielding trees as those in Java are
not known to exist (in any quantity) in Bolivia. These
wonderful trees are only to be found in the Caupolican district
in eastern Yungas. The white flower is specially belonging
to the cinchona ' rogo ' of Apolo.

"You will call to mind, no doubt, the very great difficulties
you had to get this wonderful 'seed' looked at, even ; how a
l)art was i)urchased by ]\[r. IMoney for account of our East
Indian Government for £50 under condition of 10,000

n2 A NATUBALISrS WANDERINGS

germinating. Though 60,000 plants were successfully raised
from it by the late Mr. M'lvor, I only received the £50.

" The seed taken by the Netherlands Government cost it
barely £50.

" Such then is the ' story ' attaching to the now famous
CincJwna Ledgeriana, the source of untold Avealth to Java,
Ceylon, and, I hope, to India and elsewhere. I am proud
to see my ' dream ' of close on forty years ago is realised ;
Europe is no longer dependent on Peru or Bolivia for its
supply of life-giving quinine."

In my new locality I experienced, as at Kosala, the same
difficulty in obtaining herbarium specimens of the great trees,
with a better opportunity of verifying the fact that the bulk
of those that had been felled were really barren. The fallen
trunks, however, afforded an abundant harvest of ferns ; while
on the surrounding mountains, several of them quiescent
volcanoes, which were higher than any I had yet visited, I
was happy in gathering many shrubs and plants which I had
not before seen. Close to my door grew one, our common rib-
grass (Plantago major), which I would have passed by at home
as a rank weed, but I gathered it here with real affection, as
much " for auld acqua'ntance sake," as in sympathy with its
distant exile and inexorable durance, with a few compatriots,
on these unquiet peaks, which the hot surrounding plains
have made an island-in-an-island prison, more hopeless to
escape from than the most ocean-compassed speck. At 4500
feet above the sea I found a small species of Hypericum on
wet ground, like our own JMarsh St. John's-wort {H. elodes) ;
here and there, about 5000 feet, appeared purple violets
(V. alata), increasing in abundance with the ascent through
woods of magnolias and chestnuts, their stems clothed Avith
orchids, Freycinetias, climbing aroids and lycopods, and on
whose floor the dreaded Upas dropped its fruits.

Beneath the shady canopy of this tall fig no native will, if
he knows it, dare to rest, nor will ho pass between its stem and
the wind, so strong is his belief in its evil influence.

In the centre of a tea estate not far off from my encampment
stood, because no one could be found daring enough to cut it
down, an immense specimen, which had long been a nuisance to
the proprietor on account of the lightning every now and then

IN JAVA. 113

striking off, to the damage of the shrubs below, hirge branches,
which none of his servants could be induced to remove. One
day, having been pitchforked together and burned, they were
considered disposed of; but next morning the whole of his
labourers in the adjacent village awoke, to their iiitenso alarm,
afflicted with a painful eruption, wherever their bodies were
usually uncovered. It was then remembered that the smoke of
the burning branches had been blown by the wind through
the village ; this undoubtedly accounted for the ej)idemic ;
but it did not allay their fears that they were all as good as
dead men, for the potency of the sap as a poison is but too
well known to them.

To prevent a general flight of the workmen it became
necessary to get rid of the tree altogether, but the difficulty
was to find any one willing to lay the axe to its root. At last
a couple of Chinamen, after much persuasion and the oifer
of a high fee, agreed to perform the hazardous task of cutting
up and carting it away. To the surprise of everybody they
accomplished their task w ithout experiencing the least harm.
They pocketed their fee and departed in silence, without,
however, saying that they had at intervals during their
work, artfully smeared their bodies with cocoa-nut oil.

The sap of the bark alone is hurtful, for the logs into
which the stripped trunk was cut were made into furniture
for the owner's dining-room, w ithout ill effects to the carpen-
ters. The bark of another denizen of the same forest — Gluta
henghas, one of the Anacardiaceee — contains a sap even more
noxious, for, falling on the skin, it produces stubborn ulcers
which, on the woodcutters — who often get splashed on their
arms and body — require months to heal ; but its sap is not
used by them for poison, as t!ie antiarin is. It is curious to
reflect how acute native ingenuity has been in elaborating
a pharmacopuna abounding in subtle articles to waste or take
away life, while it contains hardly one to preserve it. The
action of some of these preparations, whose effects I had
heard of as well as seen, astonisheil me vastly, but no bribe
that I could offer was tempting enough to induce their old
diihuns to disclose their composition.

At elevations of 5000 feet Podocarpv.s trees (of the yew
family), oaks and laurels formed much of the shade, under

114 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

which flourished elegant Melastomas, with white instead of
pink flowers, and raspberries (Ruhiis) of many kinds, the Ruhus
lineatus, a form with specially beautiful foliage, being abun-
dant between 6000 and 7000 feet. On many of these moun-
tains a single step would often lead the foot out of the green
forest on to the edge of a great scar-like blotch, exuding
sulphureous vapours through every crack and orifice, dis-
figuring their verdant slopes, like a suppurating sore on a
fair neck. Yet within the indurated margins of these smoul-
dering craters, a flora specially and surprisingly interesting, is
to be encountered. Amid the very vapours of the fumaroles I
gathered bunches of Ericaceous flowers, . such as . GauUheria
leucocarpa and 'punctata, and Vaccinium Jlorihundwn, their
leaves loaded with sulphur and other dej^osits, but their
flowers stiff with healthy waxiness and fragrant with their
own sweet honey odour ; Dipteris horsjieldi and other ferns,
and plants, nowhere else to be seen on the mountain, grew in
the steaming mud ; while Rhododendron retusum stretched its
roots out into the fuming streams, which boiled and bubbled
over out of the rumbling cauldrons below.

The Dipteris fern is not found in Java much farther to the
east. A line through the longitude of Samarang, which ap-
pears to be its eastern boundary, is also the western limit of
the teak (Tedona grandis), of the camphor tree {Brijohalanops
eamphora), and of several species of palms (Borassus Jiahellifor-
mis), and several species of Canjota and other trees, which are
not found in West Java, though abundant in Sumatra. Mr.
Wallace has j)ointed out how much he found the Ornithology
of the eastern to difi'er from that of the western portion of
the island; and among mammalia, I am told by intelligent
natives, neither the rhinoceros nor the Badger-headed Mydaus
crosses this boundary eastward.

Outside the rim of the craters, where the ground had begun
as it were to heal, broad patches of a beautiful species of lichen
{Cladonia vidcanica) covered the surface, each tijD of its pale
grey thallus crowned with a fructifying scarlet disk. This
is the lowly vegetation with which Nature, when a crater has
become extinct, first slowly hides the wounds her strife has
made, while scars made by landslips are concealed in a single
season with a luxuriant covering of bananas.

JN JAVA. 116

During the rainy season the thunder of slopes laden with
forest trees and shrubs crashing down, often for hundreds of
feet into the valleys, was a daily sound, which impressed me
with the supreme potency of rain as an agent in planing down
the mountains and widening the valleys. I have often been
astonished at the rapidity with which even a small stream will
carry away the debris of a great landslip. When a heavy
gale accompanies continued rains, the fall of giant trees on
the narrowed ridges of mountains, is very often the cause of
extensive landslips into both the adjacent valleys, which
lowers down by very perceptible degrees their barrier ridges.

Among the more interesting zoological objects of this
district added to my collection, were the Sipliia hanjumas,
a fairy fly-catcher of a beautiful azure blue, whose nest, a
thing of beauty like itself, I found cunningly concealed and
protected by the curled edges of a Buhus leaf and containing
a delicate, pure white egg dotted over with brownish-red spots ;
a sea-green magpie {Cissa tlialassina), with brown wings, coral
beak and legs ; and a handsome shrike (Laniellus leucogram-
inicus), known only from Java. Civet-cats were very abundant ;
and the nocturnal scaly anteater or pangolin (Maiiis) was
pretty often captured in the evening, while clumsily climbing
on the trees, licking up with amazing rapidity streams of
ants, which are its sole food — an interesting form especially
to the embryologist and the genealogist, who find in its
structures surviving " marks of ancientness," which have
greatly helped to unravel the mammalian pedigree.

Another slow prowler, the Mijdaus meliceps, very often made
my evening hours quite unbearable by the intensely offensive
odour with which, even in its most inoffensive frame of mind,
it hedged its crepuscular walks for at least a mile round. It
was no use to try to frighten it away, for if its equanimity wore
disturbed it did not haste to his lair as one could have desired.
It thickened, instead, the very air with a malignant scent that
clung to one's garments, furniture and food for weeks. Hors-
field has stated that it is exclusively confined to mountains
rising over TOGO feet, " and tliat on these it occurs with the
regularity of some jilants extending from one end of the island
to otlier on the numerous disconnectod summits." Its altitu-
dinul distribution is, however, not nearly so restricted as hero

IIG A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

stated, for I have encountered it on hills and hot plateaus at
all elevations down to below 500 feet above the sea ; and it is
said not to extend to East Java. The native has a superstition
that if a man has fortitude enough to eat its flesh he will have
become proof against sickness of all kinds.

In the forests on the southern slopes of the Malawar and the
Wayang, the banteng {Bos hanteng) lived in considerable
herds. The full-grown animal has a magnificent head of
horns, and I was very anxious to secure such a trophy ; but
only after the most wary and patient stalking was I able to
get within range of a herd of them, and then only of a calf
with immature horns. No more bellicose and dangerous
inhabitant of the forest than a wounded bull need hunter care
to encounter.

The baying of troops of Adjags or wild dogs often reached
my ears, but in all my efforts to meet them in full hunt I was
disappointed. The native accounts — repeated to me in Sumatra
a year later, in identically the same terms — of their manner of
hunting credits them with so much intelligence, if not reason,
that I was anxious to witness the performance for myself.
Their food is chiefly the Kanijil and the Mimtjac deer, and the
natives in both countries averred that, on discovering a patch
of alang-alang grass in which these are hiding, the adjags first
urinate all the grass in a circle round their fugitives, then
drive them out, when, blinded and maddened by the pain of
the pungent urine in their eyes, they fall an easy prey to the
dogs. They are so exceedingly shy and wary that it is
difficult to secure a shot, and I obtained only a single speci-
men in bad condition. As soon as the fact became known I
had quite a crowd beseeching for shreds of its skin, or if not
that for a few hairs or some portion of its body, to suspend or
to burn with a form of words near their rice-fields, as a charm
to keep off evil influences from the crop. The whole of the
carcase was cut up by them, distributed, and carefully carried
away for this purpose !

Such forms of words are implicitly believed in, as I had an
opportunity one day of learning from a dealer in krisses, who
came to my house to trade. He was very anxious for me to
buy a blade, and carefully showed me how to select one that
would not fail me in time of need. To be a trusty weapon for

IN JAVA. 117

me, it ought to be especially made to some measure of my own
body — of hand, arm or thigh, of the breadth of my two thumbs
or of my span ; but to discover the same potency in a ready-
made blade, I ought to divide a straw or a grass-stem, of equal
length with the blade, into as many lengths as it contains of its
own breadth at a distance from the hilt of twice the measure of
the first joint of the thumb. These pieces laid on the blade
alternately lengthwise and crosswise would reveal the suitability
of the weapon for my use, by the direction of the last piece —
crosswise it would indicate a fence — " a bar sinister " : leno-th-
wise, no obstruction — a favourable omen. Another test was to
measure its length by the breadth of my right and left
thumbs alternately, repeating at each alternation one of the
words, " Sri, Lungu, Bunia, Rara, Pati, Sri," &:c., and according
to which of these words should fall to the last thumb-breadth
would the blade be for me a wise choice or not. Sri beiner a
ilesignation of honour, and Dunia, signifying the world, would
therefore be good omens; whereas Bara, meaning sickness,
and Pati, death, would indicate misfortune, and the purchase of
such a kriss would bring me disaster. In much the same way,
I can recollect how as boys we used to augur our destiny by
the number of buttons on our garments, — whether we were to
become " a soldier, a sailor, a tinker, a tailor, a hangman, a
lawyer or a thief."

In the beginning of J\[ay I left my bungalow on this
salubrious piateau on my return to Buitenzorg. Everywhere
the golden rice-iields were dotted with harvesters, their
lacquered hats resplendent in blue and gold, the brown
shoulders of the men and the scarlet calicoes of the women
and children in the midst of the yellow grain, forming bright
pictures in the sunny landscape all along the way.

After a few weeks in Buitenzorg and Batavia, spent in
packing up and despatching my collections, I left fcr Telok-
betong, in South Sumatra.

118

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

APPENDIX TO PART II.

I Description of a new Bat from Java, of the (jenus KerivouJa. By Old-
field Thomas, F.Z.S., Assistant in the Zoological Department,
British Museum.

[From the Anmds and Magazine of Natural History, for June 1880.]

The ppecimen .upon which this description is based was obtained by
Mr. H. O. Forbes at Kosala, in Bantam, Java, 2100 feet above the sea,
on the 24th of September, 1879, and is now in the British Museum.

Kerivoula javana.

Fur greyish-black, each hair being nearly black for its proximal third,
then white for the mid tie third, the end being black, with sometimes a
shining white tip. Ears rather short ; laid forward they reach to about
half-way between the eyes and the tip of the nose. Shape of ears and
tragus exactly as in K. jigori, the former having the second small con-
cavity in the middle of the outer edge, and the latter the deep horizontal
notch above the external basal lobule described
in that species, as shown in the wood-cut. Dis-
tribution of fur as in K. 2^a2yitensi.s, there being
short shining yellowish hairs thickly set along the
forearm, on the thumb quite to the claw, all along
the second finger, on both phalanges of the third,
and on the digital phalanges of the fourth and
fifth fingers. There arc also a few hairs on the
proximal end of the fifth metacarpal. The tail
and t!;e hind limbs quite to the bases of the
claws are covered with similar hairs ; the edge of the interfemoral,
however, is without a fringe. The teeth are quite similar to those of
K. papuensis.

K. javana is thus intermediate between K. jagori, a Philippine species,
and K. papuensis, from New Guinea, differing from the latter in the shape
of the ears and tragus, and by the absence of an interfemoral fringe, and
from the former by the presence of fur upon the limbs, that species
havirg these quite naked. It differs from both, however, in the tricolor
character of the fur, as they are of a nearly uniformly dark reddish brown
colour, though the tips of the hairs are lighter.

Measurements of the type, an adult female in spirit: Length, head
and body 1-93", tail 1-72", head 078", ear 06", tragus 0 37", forearm 1-53",
thumb 0-27", third finger 30", fifth finger 22", tibia 072", foot 0-35".

HEAD OF K. JAVAXA.

7.V JAVA. 119

II. On a new Genus of Spiders. By Eev. 0. P. Cambridge, M.A., C.M.Z.S., &c.
(Extracted from ne Proc. ZooJ. Soc, 1831, p. 196 et sejq.)

Mr. H. 0. Forbes has lately described {Proceedings of the Zoological
Society, 1883, p. 580,) under tlie provisional name of T/iomisus decipiens,
the habits of a spider which he met with in Java. The spider itself is
remarkable from its exact resem1)lance to the drojjpings of a bird ; and it
is still more remarkable from the increased resemblance added in the
spinning of a thin white web on the surfiice of a leaf, by means of which
it secures itself, on its back, to the leaf, leaving its legs free to enclose and
seize any insect unwittingly resting upon or crossing the apjxarantly
innocuous bird-dropping. Mr. Forbes kindly sent me the spider for
examination before writing an account of its habits. I immediately
lecognised its near affinity to an East-Indian spider (Tlioniisus tuberosus,
Bl.), of which 1 po.ssess the typi3 specimen ; but, unable at the moment to
make a thorough examination and search through books and specimens,
conjectured that it was allied to some spiders described by Dr. Karsch,
and to one sent me some years ago from South Africa. A more comijlete
examination since made has convinced me that these latter species
(referred to by Mr. Forl>es) belong to entirely different groujis. I find,
however, in my collection two other spiders, from Ceylon and Bombay,
of the same genus and very closely allied in species, but quite distinct
from that which Mr. Forbes notes. Upon these, together with the one
last mentioned and Ihomisus tuberosus., Bl., I have ventured to found a
new genus, and I beg to record my thanks to its discoverer for so kindly
sending me an cxamijle of Thomisus decipiens and for having also made
known to us the very peculiar and interesting habits belonging, not only
to that spider, but also, I have little doubt, to other closely allied
species.*

In his desciiption of the habits of T. decipiens, Mr. Forbes expresses
the difficulty he has in understanding the formation by the spider of a
web which, while serving to attach itself to the leaf, at the same time r,o
exactly represents the fluid portion of abird's-dropping spread out on the
leaf around the more solid parts; and his concluding sentences seem to
me to imply the conclusion that the spider consciously supplements the
effects of natural selection on its form and resemblance to the solid ex-
creta, by spinning a web to resemble the fluid ])ortion. It sccnij; to me,
on the contrary, that the Avhole is easily explained by the operation of
natural selection, without suppo-ing consciousness in the s]>ider in any
part of the process. Tlic web spun on the surface of the leaf is evidently,
so far as the spider has any design or conscioiisness in the matter, spun
simply to secure itself in the proper position to await and seize its prey.
The silk, •which by its fineness, whiteness, and close adhesion to the leaf
causes it to resemble the more fluid parts of the excreta, would gradually
attain those qualities by natural selection, just as the spider itself would
gradually, and i)robably pari p'lssu, become, under the influence of the
same law, more and more like the solid portion.

* Duleschiill (' Twcede Bijdra^e tot dc Kcunis dcr Arachniden van den In-
diechen Arcliipel,' p. 5S, pi. xi. fy^s. i) iind Qa) de-scribes and fignroi, also from Java,
a spider ( T/io)iii*iMJ! (Ugnnnili'', iJol.) po.ssibly of this genus, and perhaps nearly
allied tf) T. (heifiiing; hut the description is too nioagro and general to cnablo
any certain conclusion to be drawn from it, and the figure given of the eyes ia
totally unlike.

120 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Fam. ThOMISID^. — ORNITHOSCAXOiDES.

Cephalotlwrax short, broad, as broad or broader than long, moderately
convex above and slightly tubercnlosc ; caput short, truncate in front, and
strongly compressed on its lateral margins.

Eyes in two curved rows, the anterior shortest (the convexity of the
curves directed forwards, and forming a crescent) ; small, not greatly
differing in size, but the four laterals are largest, and the four centrals
smallest ; those of the lateral pairs are seated on or at the base of tuber-
culosc eminences.

Ealccs strong, not very long, conical, and nearly vertical.

MaxiUce moderatt-ly long and strong, a little wider at the top than in
the middle ; rounded at the top on the cuter side, and slightly leaning
over the labium, which is about half the length of the maxillae, and of a
somewhat oblong form rounded at the apex.

Sternuir, oblong-oval.

Legs strong, moderately long, 1, 2, 4, 3 ; tho.^e of the first and second
pairs much the strongest and longest, but nearly equal in length ; those
also of the third and fourth pairs are nearly of equal length and strength.
All are somewhat roughened or tuberculose, especially those of the first
two pairs, and furnislied with spines of varied length and strength ; those
on tlio tibise and metatarsi of the two anterior pairs are strungest, tho
longest forming two parallel longitudinal rows beneath the joints. The
legs terminate with two strong, curved, pectinated claws, beneath which
is a small claw-tuft. Among the spines are one or two not very long,
rather strong, of a pale colour or semi-diaphanous appearance, on the
upper sides of the femora ; these spines have a peculiar function as
observed in one of the species, and may very possibly be of generic value,
though spines of various sizes arc found similarly situated in many
other Tliomisid genera, while their special function (if any) has not been
yet observed, so far as I am aware, in other instances.

The palpi terminate with a single pectinated claw.

Abdomen hvoadmx behind than in front and truncated at both extemities;
the upper surface and hinder part more or less thickly covered Avith
round or subconical, shining, or other tubercular elevations. The spin-
ners are short, stout, and closel\ grouped within a somewhat circular
sheath-like cincture much resembiing the disposition of those of many
Epeirids.

OltNITHOSACATOJDES EECIPIKNS.

Thomisus decipiens. Forbes, P. Z. S. 1883, p. 586, pi. LI. Adult female,
length rather above Gi lines.

The general colour of this spider is a hoary or yellowish ashy grey
marked with black. The abdomen has a large, somewhat quadrate black
patch at the middle of its binder extremity; on this patch are placed
eight shining roundish dark-brown tubercles; the four largest form a
transverse, unequally-sided parallelogram at the foro part of the black
patch ; the other four, which are much the smallest, ibrm a longer trans-
verse parallelogram immediately behind the other. At the hinder part
also, on either side of the shining tubercles, are several strong tuberculi-
form eminences or prominences, of a similar kind to which are also four
small ones in a transverse line at the extreme fore margin ; some other
depressed spots or pits are also disposed on the upper surface, with a
dark blackish suffused patch at the middle of the anterior extremity, and
another on each side just in f]-ont of the foremost lateral eminence.

IN JAVA. 121

The cephahthorax has a black irregular patch on each side of the
hinder part of the thoracic region. The ocular region is somewhat
suffused with blackish, and an irregular black, somewhat V-shaped
marking indicates the junction of the caput and thorax. The two
anterior pairs of legs have some black suffused markings on the ujjper
side of the femora, the fore half (or rather more) of the tibiae, the meta-
tarsi, and tarsi of those two pairs being almost wholly black ; while the
two hinder pairs have only an irregular black marking here and there.

The spines on the tibiae and metatarsi of the first and second jmirs of
legs are numerous, long, strong, and conspicuous.

The pale ones (mentioned above) on the upper sides of the femora are
used, according to Mr. Forbes's observations, to secure the spider on its
hack to a patcli of whitish silk si:)un upon the surface of a leaf. When so
secured the spider has the exact appearance of the droppings of some
bird, and the white silk patch emerging irregularly outside the spider has
the appearance of the more liquid portion of the droppings flowing out
and drying on the leaf.*

The eyes of each row respectively are equidistant from each other, but
those of the fore-central jDair form a shorter line than those of the hind-
central pair. The four central eyes form a square whose anterior side is
the shortest; and the height of the clypeus, which projects forwards,
is nearly about equal to half that of the facial space.

The hjs are, as described in the generic diagnosis, strong and minutely
tuberculose, the tibiaj being of a peculiar bent form.

A single exaraj^le was found by Mr. Forbes in W. Java, and at a later
period a second on the Musi lliver, Sumatra

* Mr. Forbes lias, since the above wns printed, remarked to me that in tlic two
instanced wliich came nnder liis notice, the resemblance extended even to the
running down of the fluid excreta towards the lower side of the sloping leaf,
ending in a kind of knob. Mr. Forbes also expressly disclaimed the idea of
crediting the spider wi(h any conscious design, but he says that "the similitude
is so exact, that the spider might have had consciousness, and it could not have
been more exact if tlie spider did have it." Is not its exactness probably tlio
result of tiie unconsciousness of the spider? Conscious design would possibly
have resulted in failure and alandoniiig the plan, or at least in a more clumsy
imitation.

PAET III.
IN SUMATRA.

ANaurraJ St?; '.^aadwingB ludieEASTiem-frtinf ela^<

SKETCH MAP

SOUTH SUMATRA

shewing (he Author's route
Koute t/uwi ■ ■

The houndary bju: ofOie Mtimt/iuts nji. East & HVrt
is drawn -where they aJXain arLeJevntioTvafSOOfeet .
Itills bfXnw f hat elevation- ar^not iiulicateti
Tfie portion Oi Its shaded CU inStcatt^ alUjA'lal lands

Harper *(. Tirotfaera Hew York

1

CHAPTER I.

SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS — Continued.

Leave Batavia for Telok-betong — Lnmpong Bay — Telok-betong — Leave for
Gedong-tetahan — Forest scenery by the way — Escajie from a tiger —
Flowers in the forest — Gedong-tetahan — Birds and insects there — Move
to Kotta-djawa — The village — Ruthless destruction of the forest — Trees
— Entomological treasures — Move to Gunung Trang — The pepper trade
— Birds there — Interesting butterflies.

Embarking at Batavia on the morning of the ISth of No-
vember, 1880, our course Liy westward through the Thousand
Ishinds into the Straits of Sunda, where, rounding the base
of the Rajabasa volcano, we steamed up the Lampong Bay,
between its scalloped shores girt by high hills — the southern
fork of that unbroken chain which, commencing in the north
of the island, runs down the western coast, and trifurcates
before reaching the extremity of the island to form two bavs,
on the west Kaiser's Bay, and on the east Lampong Bay.
As we steamed under the shade of these peaks, the sun went
down tingiug the crests on our left with gold, and those on
our riglit with the richest purple.

Before we dropped anchor off the little town the full moon
had come out ; and one can scarcely say which was fairer, the
sun-lit panorama of the day's sail, or the moon-lit landscape,
with the pale, soft light on the hills, whose slopes guided
the eye down to the white circle of the shore-line, on which
the palm-trees, everywhere dotting its luargin, had their
crowns transformed into flashing plumes of silver.

Telok-betong is the chief town of the Lampong Residency,
which forms the most southerly province of Sumatra. Be-
sides the Resident and the chief administrative civil officers,
the only other European iidiabitants were the commandant, a
couple of lieutenants, and a surgeon Dr. ]\Iachik, an enthusi-
astic ichthyologist and conchologist, in charge of a native gar-
10

126 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

rison of some 200 men. In addition to the true natives of the
town, there was a large campong of Chinese, a few Arabs, with a
considerable fluctuating population of traders from Borneo and
Celebes, and other islands of the Archipelago. The Buginese
or Celebes men are by far the most skilled navigators, and the
greatest traders of them all ; Macassar praus being famous
throughout the Eastern seas for their voyages made without
compass, yet rarely with mishap, from the eastern coasts of
New Guinea to the Indian Ocean in the west, trading in their
native-made cloths, in the lovely lories which they bring from
east of their own shores, and in the native Macassar oil. The
town was, therefore, before its destruction by the terrible
earthquake wave of August 1883, inhabited by a rather hete-
rogeneous collection of islanders ; and, in consequence of each
race building their domiciles according to the fashion in their
own country, it was very irregular ; but what it lost in this
respect it gained in picturesqueness. It stood but little above
the level of the sea, on a low narrow flat, which intervened
between the shore and the very abruptly rising hills, on whose
slope are situated the Government offices and some of the Euro-
pean residences, commanding a most lovely view of the bay.

One cannot examine a map of Sumatra without being struck
by the singular disposition of the land. Along the whole
length of the west coast is found, as already remarked, a long
ranjie of mountains with their outliers, while to the east of
the Barisan, as this range is named, not a mountain, and
scarcely even a hill, is to be seen. The entire eastern portion
is one vast plain, of which immense tracts often lie at a time
under water — the word Lampong signifies " bobbing on the
water." One may travel in some parts in a straight line west-
ward from the east coast for 150 or 200 miles without reach-
inof an elevation of over 400 or 500 feet, while some 30 miles
farther the Barisan peaks may ascend to over 10,000 feet.

After a short stay in the town, I started for Gedong-tetahan,
some twenty miles north, provided by the Resident with a man-
date to the chiefs of the various margas or districts through
which my road lay, commanding them to render me every
assistance. In Java the traveller has to look out for his own
coolies, with whom he makes his own terms as to distance and
remuneration, and finds no difficulty in so doing ; but here, the

JN SUMATRA. 127

people being more lethargic, not a single individual would be
got to volunteer to work, however tempting the hire, but for
a Government enactment, then in force, that the chief of
each village be responsible for the conveyance of the baggage
of all ofiicials and persons travelling under the authority of
the Government from his own village to the next. Where
villages lay close together, much time was lost by changing,
and as within a considerable radius of the coast they dotted
the wayside at every half mile or less, progress was distressingly
slow and wearying to the temper as well as to the flesh ; for,
notwithstanding the order sent forward in advance, the coolies
were never on the spot ; one had gone to eat, another had gone
in search of his knife, without which no one will stir, another
had been taken sick quite suddenly, and such as were waiting
were ready to swear that the baggage was twice the regulation
weight — 80 to 90 lbs. — and they would not touch it.

Before many of the houses which I passed were spread out
drying in the sun large quantities of pepper, what I saw repre-
senting alone a sum of money sufficient to feed their whole
families for nearly eighteen months. Were cockfightinf>- and
gaming not ingrained in them as a second nature, these people
might amass great fortunes for their condition of life. Some
do, indeed, hoard up considerable sums ; but one had only to
look on the children and young girls to see where a great deal
of it went. Every girl is arrayed in sinkels or necklets, of
various shapes of heavy silver, few or many, according to the
wealth or position of her parents ; on their arms rows and
rows of bracelets, and in their ears large button-like earrings.
These ornaments are the sign of a girl's maidenhood, and
are worn till she marries. Tlie wealth of a Lampong lady is
thus estimated by the number and weight of her ornaments,
which are, however, fully displayed only on feast days and
high occasions. Most of these ornaments are made by native
silver- or gold-smiths, and are purchased weight for weight in
silver or gold as the cas3 may be.

After the first few villages were passed, my road lay mostly
between dense forest, extending for miles on botli sides of the
way. The trees were magnificent in shape and foliage — giant
pillars, seventy and eighty feet without a branch, supporting
superb leafy crowns under whose shade a thousand men might

128 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINOS

bivouac, with trnnk and limbs entwined and warped, often even
to fatal strangulation, by an impossible unravelment of lianes
and huge climbers, which hung in coils and loops, and stretched
from tree to tree for hundreds of yards, themselves adorned
as with finely curving scroll work, with ferns and orchids
and delicate twining epiphytes. Beneath this shade a second
forest grows of lesser trees, below which again a dense thicket
of low shrubs and herbs, Caladiums, and broad-leaved Scita-
minem (or Ginger family) and of horrid thorn- and hook-
bearing rattan-palms, climbing and holding on to everything,
blocking up every unoccupied space- -t!ie whole forming an
impenetrable wall of vegetation.

In this same portion of the road, a few weeks later, while
returning from the coast, on horseback alone and unarmed,
on a pitch dark night, I had a narrow escape from a tiger.
My horse suddenly snorted in a strange manner, and came
to a dead stop with its feet planted in the ground, then
reared back ; at the same moment the great body of a tiger
shot close past my face and alighted with a heavy thud in
the jungle on my other side. Haunted with the idea that I
was perhaps being stalked, the night became doubly dismal to
me. My horse, a miserable pony at best, was so terror-stricken
as to be almost useless, and the seven miles that I traversed
before the light of my own dwelling flashed on me seemed
the longest I ever rode.

Mr. Wallaces truthful works have, or ought to have, now
dispelled the erroneous ideas about the wonderful profusion of
fine flowers existing in the tropics. This is just one of the
products of " the summer of the world " that the traveller fails
to see unless he search very well and very closely. The great
forest trees are too high for one to be able to see whether they
bear either fruit or flowers. It is only on rare occasions — and
then the sight repays him for many a weary mile — that he
alights on a grand specimen, whose top is a blaze of crimson
or gold ; more generally he knows that some high tree, which
of many it is often very difficult to say, is performing its func-
tions by seeing broken petals or fallen fruit spread over yards
and yards of the ground. Of the great mass of lower vege-
tation nothing is seen but green foliage. Hours and hours,
sometimes days even, I have traversed a forest-bounded road.

IN SUMATBA. 129

without seeing a blossom gay enough to attract admiration ;
far oftener I have stopped to pluck a gorgeous fruit. A vast
amount of tropical vegetation has small inconspicuous flowers
of a more or less green colour, so that when they do occur
the eye fails to detect them readily. The fresh green, the
rich pink, and even scarlet of the opening leaves are beautiful
beyond description, and the autumn-tinted foliage never ceases
through all the seasons, and with so much colour one is quite
content to forget the absence of flowers.

On the passing traveller, therefore, the vegetation at the lower
elevations leaves the impression of a tangled heterogeneous
mass of foliage of every shape and sliade mingled together in
such unutterable confusion, tliat not one single plant stands
out in anything like its own individuality on his mind.

Every now and then a curve of the road brought me on a
colony of Siamang apes (Siamanfja syndactijla), some of them
hanging by one arm to a dead branch of a high-fruiting tree
with eighty unobstructed feet between them and the ground,
makino- the woods resound with their loud barkino- howls.
The Siamang comes next in size to the Orang-utan, which is
the largest of the great apes living in this part of the world,
and which is found elsewhere only in the Malacca peninsula,
the Orang-utan being confined to ISumatra and Borneo.

The Siamang is a very powerful animal when fidl grown,
and has long jet-black glancing hair. In height it stands
little over three feet three or four inches, but the stretch
of its arms across the chest measures no less than five feet
five to six inclies, endowing it with a great power of rapid
progression among the branches of the trees. Its singular
cry is produced by its inflating, through a valve from the
windpipe, a large sac extending to its lips and cheeks, situated
below the skin of the throat, then suddenly expelling the
enclosed air in greater or less jets, so as to produce the singular
modulations of its voice.

Gedong-tetahan proved a very unfavourable hunting
ground, as it was surrounded by unprofitable alang-alang
fields. Nevertheless, I obtained some interesting birds.
Among them I secured the crested bee-eater {Nydiornis
amida), a beautiful creature with rose-coloured head and a
throat of a rich shade of vermilion, which preferred the open

130 A NA TUB A LIST'S WANDERINGS

wayside trees to the dense forest shade ; Rliododytes diardi,
one of the cuckoo family, with a light green bill, and velvet
scarlet eye-wattle ; and green and black barbets, whose peculiar
and incessant cries filled the air.

In the open paths and sunny roads I netted scarlet Piet^idse
(Appias nero), often flying in flocks of over a score, exactly
matching in colour the fallen leaves, which it was amusing to
observe how often they mistook for one of their own fellows
at rest, and to watch the futile attentions of an amorous male
towards such a leaf moving slightly in the wind. Among the
Pieridse, it has been said by Mr. \V allace that the male is as
a rule more conspicuous than the female ; but in this genus
Appias — with the exception of a little more black in the female,
the sexes of Appias nero are alike — the female is really, fre-
quently, more conspicuously marked, and attracts the eye on
the wing quite as readily as the male. Nearly all the species
of CallHryas and Catopsilia, as Mr. Butler has pointed out to
me in specimens in the British ]\Iuseum, have the females more
conspicuously marked than the males. Ilebomoia glaiicippe
and its allies may be instanced, and the genera Ganoris and
Belenois, as for example B. eudoxia and B. tlieora, in the latter
of which only the female has the front wings orange.

From Gedong-tatahan I moved a little further west to Kotta-
djawa. All along the way crowds of Buceros birds kept con-
stantly flying overhead with their peculiar noisy scream and
the breeze-like whirr of their wings, while from far in the woods
came the softer koo-ow of the Argus pheasants, than which,
among all the feathered tribes, scarcely any bird is lovelier.
In Sumatra, the Argus occupies the j)lace held in Java by the
Peacock— a bird belonging to the same natural family — which
seen in its native wildness is unsurpassed for brilliancy of
colour and decorative appendages, but its ornamentation is too
gaudy for long contemplation ; while in the case of the Argus
Pheasant one may admire feather by feather, and the same
feather again and again, and daily see new beauties. The tail
of the peacock is formed by a great development of what is
technically known as the upper tail coverts, while that of the
Argus pheasant is formed chiefly by an enormous elongation
of the two tail quills and of the secondary wing feathers, no
two of which are exactly the same ; and the closer they are

IN SUM ATE A. 131

examined, the greater is seen to be tlie extreme chasteness of
their markings, and their rich, varied and harmonious colouring.
When ahirmed the Argus escapes by running through the
thick underscrub, when the brilliancy of its plumage, by being
gathered close about its body, is quite concealed.

Till I had observed it at a later period^ I was not aware of its
habit of making a large circus, some ten to twelve feet in
diameter, in the forest, which it clears of every leaf and twig
and branch, till the ground is perfectly swept and garnished.
On the margin of this circus there is invariably a projecting
branch or high-arched root, at a few feet elevation above the.
ground, on whicli the female bird takes its place, while in the
ring the male — the male birds alone possess great decoration —
shows off all its magnificence for the gratification and pleasure
of his consort, and to exalt himself in her eyes. It is a strange
fact that when the male bird has been caught — these birds
are much trapped by the natives, their excessive shyness
making it almost impossible to shoot them — the female in-
variably returns to the same circus with a new mate, even if
two or three times in succession her lord should be caught.
The female bird is rarely caught, owing to her flying to her
roost when approaching the circus, while the great winged
males walk into the ring, which the native skilfully barricades
all round except the one spot where he sets his snare.

The houses in Kotta-djawa at first sight looked as if they
were all roof and no body, for the broad thatched slopes and
gables reached down to within five or six feet from the ground,
where they projected out somewhat horizontally, so as to leave
a free space all round the square bamboo or bark-made, box-
like, propped-up edifice, in which, protected from sun and rain,
most of tlie rice-stamping and other household operations were
performed. In south Sumatra, though rivers abound, and
there is much level land, the natives, till very recently, took
always their rice crops from forest land, wliich produces a far
less return of grain, of a quality, too, much inferior to sawah
(or wet-field) grown corn. To make this ladang the native
goes after the virgin forest, leaving his old fields to produce a
new crop of trees, if the alang-alang grass does not get the
upper hand.

The virgin woods contain the really interestiug and valu-

132 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

able vegetation of the country ; these trees being, to a great
extent, the lineal descendants of the vegetation that has
always existed on the island since it came into its present
condition at least. Perhaps indeed some of the aged giants
may have actually witnessed the young days of the present
geological cycle. In the virgin forest death and decay are
just as rapid as anywhere else; individual trees are constantly
falling out of the ranks, but their place is taken by younger
members either of the same or of neighbouring species.
When, however, this ancient forest is devastated to any
great extent, either by natural means or by the woodcutter's
axe, the trees that arise belong to a different lineage, the new-
wood is in great bulk of different species, which, strange to say,
were but rarely to be found in the old forest.

As in Java the original forest is rapidly disappearing ; each
year sees immense tracts felled for rice fields, more than is
actually necessary, and also much wanton destruction by wilful
fires. Trees of the rarest and finest timber are hewed, half burned,
and then left to rot ; amid their prostrate trunks a couple of
harvests are reaped, then the ground is deserted, and soon fills
up with the fast-growing and worthless woods, or falls a prey
to the ineradicable alang-alang grass. Our children's children
will search in vain in their travels for the old forest trees of
which they have read in the books of their grandfathers ;
and to make their acquaintance, they will have to content
themselves with what they can glean from the treasured
specimens in various herbaria, which will then be the only
remains of the extinct vegetable races.

In every clearing, trees, from their gigantic size, have here
and there escaped the axe, and been allowed to stand un-
molested. One cannot resist a feeling of pity for the solitude
of these towering monarchs, whose grandeur, concealed as they
stood amid the multitude of their peers, can now be seen in
all their stateliness. They look the very picture of strength and
immobility ; yet, though they have withstood, in the company
of their fellows, the storm and sun of centuries, they survive
their solitude but a very few seasons, getting feebler year by
year, one great limb after another dying and dropping off, till
all life ceases, when some lightning flash or sudden blast
measures their noble stems on the ground.

IN- SUMATRA. 133

To obtain specimens of the ancient arboreal race was a task
slow and difficult of accomplishment ; for but few trees could be
felled in one day, and good eyes were required to tell at a
height of 150ft. or 200ft. if there were fruit or flower to reward
the labour and time spent in the operation ; and when, after
hard toil, a great tree came crashing down, letting in the
sunlight on the damp ground, the beauty of the foliage and of
the flowers or fruit was often a rich recompense for the labour.
It was a happy thing, that such a giant could not fail to
bring to the ground portions of one or more of his neighbours
in his downfall, large enough to atford grand specimens.

No one could fail to be attracted by the at first unusual
sight of trees bearing their blossoms, or fruit, or both, in great
profusion on their bare trunks. Of these the oftenest recurring
belong to a group producing some of the most beautiful trees
and shrubs in the world, the Ternstroemacese, or Tea-family,
to which the Camellia belongs. The pendent pure white or
pink-flushed, golden-centred corollas of the Saurayas, (duster
round their trunks, hiding them for twenty or thirty feet of
their height, like maypoles busked for a fete. Besides orchids
and the Asdepiadaceai which contain the wax-plants, or Hoyas,
the brightest epiphytes were certainly the species of ^schy-
nanthes, many of which have drooping bell-flowers of the
deepest scarlet.

Zoological prizes had just as diligently to be searched for as
botanical trophies ; as in the case of flowers, insects, birds and
other animals do not wait, even in the profuse tropics, at every
blossom, or on every branch for the collector's net and the
hunter's gun. In the depths of the virgin forest little life is to
be seen ; there, an oppressive silence reigns. One hears occasion-
ally only a distant note from some bird or mammal, or the stridu-
lating of a cicad on a tree trunk far out of eye-shot, and in the
second growth, if these are more abundant as the ear asserts,
they are as difficult, from numerous obstacles to sight and
progress, to see or secure. The ornithologist and the entomo-
logist obtain most of their treasures in the small virgin forest
patches in the neighbourhood of villages, in wide shady paths
in the great forest, and along sunny walks amid the opened
portions of the second growth.

I was fortunate in finding a little of all this description of

134 A NATURALIST'S 'WANDERINGS

country at Kotta-djawa. My favourite resort was the sunny
pathways, bordered by second growth forest of some size,
where many attractive 3Iussamdas, euphorbiaceous trees and
shrubs, aud thick clumps of the aromatic and brightly varie-
gated Lantana, were always in flower.

The Lantana was one of the greatest favourites of most kinds
of insects ; beetles, bees, and butterflies were always present by
scores ; and I observed that they visited the different coloured
florets quite indiscriminately. Of the last the swallow-tailed
species — Pajniio hrama, theseus, arydes, arjuna, and a lovely
black-and-white species which is known as Papilio saturnus
— were specially abundant, but difficult to secure, as they were
greatly persecuted by all the otlier species feeding on it — the
Pieridas and the dragon-flies being their worst enemies.
They constantly sailed round and round in a timid way, as if
watching for an opportunity to swoop in, but were often so
driven off that for half an hour at a time I have seen them
unable to make one successful visit. The beautiful tailed
Loxuras and Aplinpeus were also in abundance, while HyiwJijmnas
anomala frequented the thick jungle, floating out at intervals
into the open. "This species ofters the most remarkable
case known among butterflies of a reversal of the usual sexual
colouring, the male being always dull brown and the female
glossed with rich blue . . . The brilliant blue gloss causes the
female to resemble or mimic Euplxa midamus" (Wallace).
Mr. Butler has shown me in the British Museum, however,
males with nearly as much blue as the females. It is
singular that no male of this species is yet known from Java.
Specimens in the British Museum, named by Mr. AVallace as
males oi Anomala, axe not from Java. Undoubted males from
Malacca and Borneo have broad patches of blue towards the
border of the front wings. The female Anomala from Java has
more blue than the specimens of the same sex from Borneo,
and it is not improbable that the Java male may have more
blue than the Bornean. What appears to be a female, named
Hypohjninas v-allaceana by Mr. Butler from ' India,' corresponds
with the male H. anomala (of AVallace's description) in the
British iMuseum from Borneo. The Euplsea which these species
mimic is common to Indo-Malasia.

From Kotta-djawa I moved further westward to Guuung-

IN SUMATRA. 135

Trang, the chief centre of the pepper and daniTnaT trade, where
there was more high land and virgin forest. From this village
alone in the height of the pepper season more than fiftv ponv
loads go every week to the coast, each carrying IJ piciils,
or 21*J Amsterdam ponnds weight. It is rare that single
loads are sent down to the coast, generally a small troop goes to-
gether, and the village square presents rather an exciting scene
in the early morning of a despatch of cargo. The strong but
wofully skinny creatures have, like their masters, little relish
for hard work, and conduct themselves in the most refractory
manner possible — objecting first of all to be caught, then
resenting with teeth and limbs the impost of pack-saddle and
bags. When, however, the last cord has been adjusted, after
many imprecations and Allah-il-Allahs from the pack-master,
they give in to the inevitable with perfect grace, marching
off as docilely as possible generally behind a belled leader,
and thereafter require little or no attention.

The price obtained for this amount of pepper at the coast
amounts to about £118, no mean amount per week (during
the season) for a small village, whose only outlay consists in
the cost of food and the Government tax of one guilder per
head. It takes seven or eight years for a new pepper garden
to reach maturity, but when it is in full bearing, each shrub
will yield as much as 10s. 8cZ. worth of fruit in a sea-on.

The other great industry of the place is dammar collecting.
This substance, as is well known, is the resin which exudes
from notches made in various species of coniferous and
dipterocarpous trees. Some of these, especially of the latter
family, are immense giants, out of whose stem— which often
reaches 100 feet before branching — the native cuts large
notches, at intervals of a few feet, up to a height of some
forty or fifty feet from the ground. The tree is then left for
three or four months, when, if it be a very healthy one, suf-
ficient dammar will have exuded to make it worth collecting;
the yield may then be as much as ninety-four Amsterdam
pounds. ]\Iost trees, however, exude a far less quantity and
require a longer time.

The damar attam (from the H-tpea dryohalanoides and other
Dipterooarpex, and not from the Dammara {Coniferpe) ), a beau-
tiful clear glass-like substance— the " eye dammar," as the

136 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

native name signifies — is the most prized, and fetches about
two guineas for 125 Amsterdam pounds. The greater part of
this goes to the European market, to be madtj into varnishes
principally, and is purchased at the coast by the Chinese
traders, who in turn carry it to Batavia and Singapore to
resell it. A much inferior sort called "stone-dammar ' got
from Vatica eximia, also one of the Blpierocarpefe, is worth about
2s. iSd. only per 125 Amsterdam pounds, and is purchased at
the coast by the Bugis from Celebes and the Bawean men
from near Borneo, to be used by the native prau-builders to
fill up seams and leaks. The thick, close, tough bark of the
tree, however, is a much more valuable commodity, for, as it
can be stripped off in immense sheets, it is greatly used
instead of planks or the more open bamboo wickerwork, as
sides for their houses, and is an excellent substitute.

The native distinguishes his pepper shrubs and his dammar
trees from all other sorts by the expressive title of pohone
vang, or money trees. The pepper (calamitously, he holds,)
does not grow wild in the forest in any way suitable to his
desire, but must be planted and tended. The dammar
requires no such care ; and as he roams the forest, to his eager
eye no tree, shrub, or herb has the slightest interest if it is not
an unclaimed jjolione ivang. He has not sufficient interest in
those who are to come after him two generations hence — just
as his forefathers before him had none — to plant a dammar-
yielding arboretum ; he prefers to spend days in hunting the
forest in their quest.

When he has fallen on such a prize — now to be found only
in the dense forest far from any dwelling-place — he at once
proceeds to clear off from under it the surrounding vegetation,
and to make several deep hacks or distinctive marks as the
sign of appropriation. It is then safe ; for it is in their code
of honour to respect such a tree, not from any high moral
principle, but from the more interested reason — lest, if to-day
he robs his neighbour's dammar, he himself, ^ho may to-
morrow be the lucky finder of perhaps several richer trees,
may in like manner be robbed. There exists also the
inherited superstitious dread of some unknown evil to follow ;
for perchance the finder has hedged his property by the
sanctity of a spell, the violation of which, will, sooner or

IN SUMATBA. 137

later, it is believed, be followed by the visitation of a setan in
the form of a sickness or misfortune. If a setan be supposed to
reside in any spot, not an individual will be found brave
enough to approach it, ho^^ever great profit might accrue to
the venturer.

In these forests I added to my collection some of the fairest
of the feathered tribes — orange and scarlet-crested woodpeckers,
green barbets, blue and bronze doves, green and scurlet twitter-
ing Loriculi ; and on dead snags of the lonely outliers large
hawks and falcons. Of mammalian animals my most interesting
capture was the Sciiwopterus, a flying squirrel with large
gentle lemur-like eyes, soft fur, and black margined parachute
expansions.

The neighbourhood of this village I found to be an excellent
locality for butterflies; for there were abundance of paths
among second-growth forests, many open clumps of flowering
shrubs, and hot sandy and pebbly banks along a broad and
shallow stream unobstructed by bushes, sunny corners, and
shady nooks innumerable. Almost every walk I took is
indelibly and most delightfully memorable by the finding of
some gay or remarkable form. Especially numerous were
those interesting species, which have the gift of the slippers of
invisibility to rescue them in dangerous moments. Frequent-
ing the dense thickets they would flit out into more open
spots, displaying for a few seconds the rich brilliancy of the
cobalt of the upper sides of their wings, then settling either
on a dry leaf, or more commonly on the ground among fallen
foliage and twigs, whose colour, exactly matching their closed
wings, concealed them beyond power of detection. Of these
I obtained Amathusia ametliystus, Coelites ejpiminthia, C. eupty-
cliioides and Earytela castelnaui.

Few butterflies can compare with another of my captures
here, the AmUypoiia eumolpus, the upper sides of whose
wings are of the most sparkling emerald. A less brilliant but
very chaste species of Cyrestes {C. p>eriandcr) fell also to my
lot only after great difficulty, for it loves the dense thickets,
flitting with short flights from the under side of one leaf to
the under side of another, where, spreading itself flat out, it
disaj)pears and is not easy to find. If with my hungers I
sat down for a rest in an open sunny spot after a hot chase, we

138 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

were often the centre of attraction for quite a flock of a very
beautiful large butterfly, Euploea ochsenheimeri, which would
fearlessly rest on their naked bodies and on my sweating
hands, whence they allowed themselves to be captured be-
tween the fingers in the easiest manner possible. Another
butterfly also, the Cynthia Juliana, was often caught at the
sweating bodies of the natives.

IN SUMATRA. 189

CHAPTER ir.

SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS — Continued.

Move towards the Tenganms Monntaiu — Butterflies found on the journey
thitlier — Tiohmomon — The Balai, a characteristic institution — Descent
of the Lampongers — Tlieir Laniruage — Divisions of tiie province — Titles
and dignities — Ornaments — Festivities and amusements — Marriage
customs — Move to Penanggnngan — Petroleum and paraffin matches —
Penanggunsfan — Great trees — Interesting plants and animals — The
Siamang — Move to Terratas — Ascent of the Tenganms Mountain — Its
flora and fauna — Picturn to Penanggnngan and to Batavia.

In the middle o^ August I moved my camp north-westwards
to the viUage of Penanggnngan towards the high peak of
the Tengamus at the top of the Semangka Bay. I followed a
native forest path, reported to be good, but which turned out
to be an execrable tunnel through a grove of low rattan-palms,
whose delicate but unbreakable tendrils, banging down on all
sides, studded with the sharpest and most unrelenting hooks,
were ever suddenly fetching me up by a lasso round my neck
or body from which no amount of ill-natured tugging or pulling
would avail to relieve me, and from whose thorny grapnels I
could release myself only by yielding, and stepping calmly
backwards. Here an immense tree-trunk, six or seven feet in
diameter, lay athwart the path ; there a gigantic mud bath,
the 'Wallowing hole of a herd of elephants, in which my 2)orters
sank to the waist and sometimes to the armpits.

On the way I netted a large Ornithoptera [0. ami^lirijsus),
and* the first known female of Amesia juvenis, a day-tiying
moth which mimics Trepsichrois mulciher, while by the margin
of a small str'^am I caught Leptocircus virescens, which derives
protection from mimicking the habits and the appearance of
a dragon-fly, in a crowd of which it is often to be found.
In form it reminded me of the European genus Xemnpti^ra. It
flits over the top of the water fluttering its tails, jerking up and
down just as dragon-flies do when flicking the water with the

140 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

tip of their abdomens. AVhen it settles on the ground, it is
difficult to see, as it vibrates in constant motion its tail and
wings, so that a mere haze, as it were, exists where it rests.

Emerging from this forest, I found myself in Tiohmomon,
a typical Lampong village, in a district which had been in-
habited for many generations. The houses were all substan-
tially built of planks, with, in many cases, carved decorations
on the cross beams, and painted designs on the intermediate
panels.

The Balai is the most — we might almost say the only —
peculiar and characteristic institution of the Lampongers. It
is always the largest and most prominent edifice in the village,
situated apart from all others, and in the most central jjosition.
It stands eight or ten feet from the ground, on massive pillars
formed of great tree-stems, and is built generally of f)lanks
of wood, or of bamboo wicker-work. It is evident that
much labour has been bestowed on it, for, as a rule, it indi-
cates the highest available workmanship, as it is the result of
the combined labour of the whole community. It is lofty,
and roofed either with thatch of grass or rattan-palm leaves,
or covered with wood or bamboo " slates," according to the
fashion of roofing in vogue in the village. It is fairly well
lighted, but the light, as a rule, is admitted only by the
latticed gables, and by long slits and small windows a few
feet above the level of the floor, more suitable, of course,
to the squatting native than to a European sitting on a chair.
Two doors, reached by strong bamboo ladders, or well-made
wooden stairs, and situated one at each end of the building,
either in the gables or in the sides, afford ingress and egress.
At one end within a small inclosure is a cooking place — a
deep layer of earth on which the fire rests.

The Balai is in reality the town-hall of the Lamponger. It
is the common property of every man, woman, and child in
the village. In Mahomedan lands a man's house is sacred ;
for a man rarely enters the dwelling of his neighbour, and never
without the head of the house ; but the Balai is the assembly-
room — the meeting place for all. Its doors stand ever open.
All l)usiness is transacted under its roof; all hifjaras (consul-
tations and discussions) are held there. At whatever hour
one enters, its most characteristic occupants, lazy, sleeping

IN SUMATRA. 141

villagers, are to be seen dotted over its floor. During the
day, the orang-jaga, or watchman, who occupies an open guard-
room during the night, makes the Balai his watch-tower.
All travellers passing through the village are free to its shade
and shelter. The orang-hedagaiig, or itinerant pedlar, finds
at once a free lodging, a market-place for his goods, and an
eager crowd to listen to the news he brings. Here all civic
feasts and festive gatherings are held. Here they enjoy the
pleasures of the dance for unbroken days and nights together.
This being truthfully explained, means that the seated youths
behold with delighted eyes the peculiar and monotonous
posture figures, supposed to be elegant and most bewitching,
of the ornament-bedizened maidens performing two and two
at a time to the clanijinii- and clamour of ffonii; and drum, and
that the maidens in their turn have the privilege of gazing
on their future lords going through the same performance.
Under its roof, their love is consummated in the weddino-
and attendant ceremonies. Here, before a crowded audience,
they are invested with their equivalent knighthoods and peer-
ages ; and here, in many villages, they are at last laid out,
and pass from it to the grave. Around the Balai, therefore,
centres, as it were, the whole life of a Lampong village.

The Lampongers claim to be descended from the jMalays of
Menano-kabau (a district in the Padano^ re^cion of Sumatra's
West coast), where it is believed the first conquerors of the
island established their kingdom, whence they spread to the
northern central portion, and thence along the west and southern
coasts, of what is now the Lampong Kesidency, at first, slowly
by families and small communities, which agglomerated into
separate margas with their chiefs.

The dialect spoken in the Jjampongs "appears to be an
original tongue, with one-third of its words of unknown origin." *
I am doubtful how far this will be borne out by its closer
study. It contains a very largo number of corrupted Malay
and Sund.niese words ; but the written syjnbols are pecu-
liar to Sumatra. In Java, where ]Malay (met with in the
coast towns), Sundanese (spoken only in the west of Java
and supposed to be a distinct language), and Javanese are
the spoken languages, Arabic is employed for expressing
* Stanford's Conipeudium of (Jeugrapliv, Australasia, Appendix.
11

142 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

in writing both Malay and Sundanese, and the beautiful,
interesting well-known Javan symbols for its own language.
The Lam pong characters have no resemblance to either of
tliem, but I\[r. Keane holds that they are based on the Devana-
gari, as he affirms the Javanese to be also. The letters of
which a specimen is given on the opposite page are mostly
either horizontal lines, or lines meeting each other at acute
angles, with marks and dots above and below the line, to form
nineteen characters, representing the sounds ka, ga, gna, pa, ba,
ma, ta, da, na, tya, dya, nya, ya, a, la, ra, sa, wa, cha (rough).
jMarks and hooks above and below the letters are used to
indicate the vowel sounds and the addition of n and ng, and
a sign to indicate the dropping of the final vocable, so as to
express the consonant, as " Ka tanda mat " (" dead sign ") in-
dicates K. At first, with only a native teacher, scarcely half
of whose discourse I could comprehend, the acquisition of the
language seemed very difficult; but, having the key given, it
was far easier to acquire than it looked.

The margas are the old native districts (one might almost
call them regencies) into which the country was originally
divided, each owning its own independence. The Govern-
ment, in parcelling out the country for administrative pur-
poses, has retained as mucli as possible the boundaries of the
marga intact, as each had often its own peculiar customs, to
which the people adhere with hereditary tenacity. In the old
days each marga, and possibly each kampong (village) had a
copy of its oondang-oondang, or laws, written on bamboo-stems,
or on lontar (Borassus) palm leaves, which were preserved
as heirlooms from generation to generation, till eaten up by a
small boring beetle — which can in a very short time reduce the
stoutest bamboo to powder if it is not looked after — or till
destroyed in the fires by which every viHage has been periodi-
cally wiped out, when it would be reinscribed from the memory
of some old villager, and again transmitted. In very rare cases
only would the bamboo record be applied to, for in every vil-
lage there was always some one, as now, who knew its con-
tents with perfect accuracy, to whom it had been taught when
a child by his father, as he in like manner had been taught by
his ; so that w hen a case arose in which the adat (custom) was
in question, recourse would be had to the living repository, as

IN SUMATRA. 143

the quickest means of settling the point ; for their reading, like
their act of inscribing, was, even as now, a painfully slow and
difficult affair to the most learned. Now-a-days these interest-
ing relics are very rare, and almost impossible to procure.

Each marga, as a rule, has in it several villages, each with a
chief. Each village community is a collection of families,
either related or not to each other by the ties of blood — con-
sisting of the original family or nucleus of the village and
those descended from it, and of the companies of immigrants
who have come from different places, and at different times,
with their descendants. Each of these companies, or families,
was called a siiJcii, and each selected one of their number to
represent them in all matters affecting their interests. So
then a village community consisted, and still more or less
completely consists, of several suJcus, each uith its head, all
subject to the village chief, who would, in the first instance,
be the representative of the first suku or nucleus of the village,
and thereafter, if that representative left no heirs, the person
on whom the choice of the sukus might fall. A trivial cause
of dispute in a suku would be brought before the chief
of the suku, associated with some of its old men from whom
an appeal might lie to the head of the village with one or
more of the Kapala sukus. A case in wliich more than
one Siiku was concerned would come before the village chief,
sitting with the uninterested Kapala sukus. An appeal from
this village court might be made to the chief of the marga,
possibly along with the village chiefs of the marga, beyond
which, of course, it could not in past days go. 'J'his court
also exercised jurisdicticm in cases of inter-village disputes. A
marga was therefore a little independent principality, or rather
clan, whose boundaries were the limits claimed by the first
immigrants to the place ; and seems to have been at first ruled
by him among the settlers who was most influential or of the
closest blood relationship with the chiefs or princes of IMenang-
kabau giving them the right to the title of Penijiuibang.

The highest I'enyimbang within the boundaries ruled over
the marga; then in each village the highest ranked was chief of
the village, and the next after him became chiefs of the village
sections. The Pcnyinibang need not of necessity become chief
of this village or marga ; he could delegate his authority to

144 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

anotlier, but still his voice, in all matters where he chose to
exercise it, had pre-eminence. The Penyimbangs constituted
a hereditary nobility, which exercised great influence ; and if
I have understood the narratives of those old cliiefs with whom
I have talked, they were nearly all of equal rank. No one could
be raised de novo to the honour of a Penyimbang without the
consent of all the Penyimbangs in his marga. When this was
obtained he was called out, by the Marga chief, amid the accla-
mations of the people convened in full assembly in the Balai of
the capital of the marga, before whom the services entitling him
to the honour and showing him to be a " fit and proper " person
to be so endued were proclaimed, to take liis place on the raised
benches occupied by the nobility. The new peer was then
bound to kill in honour of the occasion, a number of buffaloes,
according to the degree of his rank, sometimes as many as
ninety, and give a great feast, as well as bestow a present
on each of his brother Penyimbangs.

As margas increased in number, so their boundaries became
eternal subjects of dispute, referred as a rule to the arbitra-
ment of war. Now, as the Sunda Strait alone separated the
south eastern extremity of Sumatra from Bantam (which, until
abolished by the Dutch Government in 181 1, was a flourishing
kingdom under powerful Sultans), a rich trade in rice, pepper,
and pottery, at length sprang up between the Bantamese
traders and the Lampongers. Whether the former intro-
duced the cultivation of pepper into the Lampongs, or
found these settlers already acquainted with the culture,
is doubtful ; but it is certain that at an early date rich spice
gardens flourished in southern Sumatra. Every year the
Sultan sent across a fine prau laden with all sorts of earthen-
ware, an art then unknown to the Lampongers, with a letter
full of compliments and good wishes, which was publicly read
on a day when all the Penyimbangs had assembled, to which
they returned a complimentary reply with gifts of pepper
and elephants' tusks ; so trade gradually increased, and with
it the power and influence of the Sultan, whose aid in these
intermargal disputes, either by mediation or more practi-
cally, was often besought. Grateful chiefs sent i2i return
rich presents of ivory and pepper, with acknowledgments
of his influence, till gradually the Sultan's protection was

IN SUMATBA. 145

extended over the greater part of the Lampongs in return
for a yearly tribute, Special services were acknowledged by
the bestowal of titles and dignities. These honours and ranks
were hereditary, and were at first conferred directly by the
Sultan ; but afterwards they could be purchased, with the
assent of the other peers of the marga, from a hereditary
Eight-holder, by such as were of faultless '• name and fame."
A iMnffTxCit, or title, was just as dear to the heart of a Lam-
ponger as now to his European brother, and assiduously did
he labour to hoard up the necessary sum, and cultivate by
presents the good will of the Penyimbangs, in order that he
might some day have the pride of occupying one of the seats
of honour at marriage feasts and on gala days, almost the
only occasions on which the happy possessor of a pa^r/^-a?"
could be distinguished from his fellows.

The Order of the Pepadon was the highest conferred by the
Sultan. The Pepadon was a great wooden chair, with a high
back richly carved, and stood in the Balai. The honour
consisted in occupying this seat at feasts and high occasions
before the assembled marga, wdiile the Penyimbangs of lesser
rank occupied lower seats to right and left. On grand days
the Pepadon was often overlaid with gold and silver plates,
lent for the occasion by the people of the marga. On his
first installation to the Order the new noble was drawn on a
wooden car from his house to the Balai, and if he were of old
family it was shaded by a yellow or white canopy.

If within a marga a person bo found murdered, and the
murderer cannot be discovered, the whole marga must pay to
the relatives a sum of money according to his rank, as an
expiation. On this account all travellers are saluted with,
"Where to, master? " and "Where from, master? "" Where
did you spend last night? " that there may be some clue as to
his whereabouts should he go a-missing; and of the people
among whom he was last seen alive, in order, if possible,
to saddle some village with the crime.

The Order of the Pepadon gave the possessor and his
relatives the right, if murdered, to a higher sum of blood-
money than any one else. Not only this ; for his daughters
he could demand a sum (djudjur) from the man claiming her
hand four times as great as from a man who had no rank.

146 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

The next lower rank consisted in the privilege of sitting
in the Balai on state occasions against a wooden pillar, called
the Sesaho. It entitled the relatives of its possessor to a sum
of blood-money less only than could be demanded by those of
members of the Order of the Pepadon, and a like proportionate
djudjur for his daughter's hand. Should he be afterwards
elevated to the rank of the Pepadon, the Sesako was nailed
to the back of the Pepadon.

The Lawang Koree, or " honour-door," the third rank, was
a gateway of carved wood or stone which was erected near to
the dwelling of the holder.

On women of ancient family and of high rank certain
honours were also bestowed. They were entitled to be borne
to the Balai on great occasions on a state car ; but the right to
be carried with the foot resting on the body of a man as a
footstool belonged to the most high-born alone. Women of
less distinguished birth could come walking on variously
adorned mats spread before them by their slaves.

In a full assembly of the marga on a high occasion, the
foremost places are occupied by the Penyimbangs of various
orders. In a line fronting the Penyimbangs sit all the
Jjudjangs, or unmarried youths, facing a row of young
maidens. The sight is a gay one. All are in their best
attire, the general crowd in whatever garments please their
fancy most, but generally of the gayest colours of coats and
headcloths, and sarongs suspended by large silver- and
gold-buckled belts, with ivory- and gold-handled krisses
stuck in the waist ; the women — for those that stand round
have all been married — more sombrely, w^earing the matri-
monial symbol, the sulung, a necklet of massive gold or
silver rings strung immovably, except for a little piece in
front, on a cylinder of the same metal, and the thick
stud-like earrings, the only ornaments that their severe laws
permit to those who have known the bonds of wedlock. Here
and there among the crowd a crownless boat-shaped hat, made
of cardboard, and bound round with a gold plate, indicates that
its wearer is a childless wife. The young unmarried men are
simply attired in a sarong of a bright colour, supported by a
belt fastened by a buckle of greater or less value according to
his rank, with the corresponding number of krisses stuck iu it,

127 SUMATliA. 147

and with a headcloth tied about his temples in the fashion of
his district ; but from the waist upwards naked.

The centre of attraction is the long line of maidenliood,
glittering in silver and gold of native workmanship. The
hair of each girl, neatly arranged and odoriferous from abun-
dance of cocoa-nut and cajeput oil, is tied in a knot behind
and transfixed by a high-backed comb overlaid with erold
plates ; her head is crowned with a coronet {i-i<jgar) of gold, of
form and magnificence according to her pangkat ; a shawl
worn sash-wise hangs from the shoulder to the ground, while
from above the middle hangs a rich sarong, or petticoat, of
home-grown and spun silk, interwoven with gold thread, and
decorated with hundreds of small coins of the Dutch mint,
which jingle pleasingly as she dances. Above this the body is
girt with a silk slendang, half concealing the breasts. The
arms, shoulders, and chest are bare, except for the nume-
rous gold or silver collars and necklets and bracelets, of
patterns peculiar to her marga, with which she is loaded.
Often these collars are entirely composed of the large dollar
pieces of Spain, Holland, and 3Iexico, and of English half-
crowns. Of the highest-born maidens, the arms from the
wrist to the elbow are almost concealed by the display of pure
" barbaric gold," for they may wear as many bracelets as
they choose ; while their sisters less fortunate in the matter
of blood and rank must conform to the regulation number cor-
responding to their degree. The breast is overlaid with
crescent-shaped gold plates, suspended in tiers ; the waist is
encircled by a belt of one of the precious metals secured by an
elaborately-carved buckle of the same material. The ratlier
bony fingers are encircled with many rings, and even the
uails are lengthened by additions of silver into talon-like
claws ; so that altogether the Lampong maiden presents a
dazzling appearance in the dim uncertain light of a lamplit
Ualai. The cost of such a costume represents no mean sum ;
it is not uncommon for a girl to have as much as £100 worth
of ornaments about her person at a festival.

When all is ready, the ever monotonous music commences,
and the ^Master of the Ceremonies, whose place is between the
two lines, at a signal from the chief calls — and his directions
must be implicitly obeyed — on two of the maidens to dance.

148 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

His office is both a delicate and a difficult one. He must
himself be of good position in the community, and be more
or less a general favourite ; but especially must he be
intimately acquainted with the social position and rank of
all present ; for should he unwittingly call on two maidens or
two youths of different ranks to dance together he will have
committed a mistake which has many a time turned the
festival into a fight, for the parents or the relatives of the
higher-ranked of the dancers, feeling themselves insulted,
have suddenly revenged themselves by amok — that mode of
retribution which is to them the swiftest and most gratifying ;
the first victim being generally the unfortunate blaster of
the Ceremonies himself.

The daughter of a low Penyimbang used to have the right
to have one girl attendant behind her, w ith a young man to hold
a white umbrella over her head ; but a maiden of the highest
rank was entitled to as many as six attendants, and to be shaded
by a silk umbrella, gaily ornamented with flowers and gold-leaf,
which, when she was not dancing, lay folded in front of her, by
the side of a cushion on which her rank entitled her to place
her fans. The daughters of villagers without pangkat danced
in the best they could afford, but unattended and unshaded.

The high-born youth was distinguished by the number
and gorgeousness of his krisses, and further by the number
of youths prostrate on the ground before him, on whom he
placed his foot as a sign of his authority. These customs
have now been greatly modified, as the attendants on the high
born were in former days their slaves (and slavery has been
for many years abolished by the Government), and where they
now appear they are paid servants, or relatives or friends who
have volunteered to take for the occasion the j)lace of the
slaves of former days.

White was the sign of nobility, which alone those of higli
pangkat could use, all others being obliged to wear cloth of
a dark colour. Blue remains even now when all restrictions
have been removed by law, the commonest colour of garments
worn by the people ; but even yet the sight of white in one of
low rank incites envy or enmity. The ^Magistrate of one of
the districts informed me of a case he had shortly had before
him, in which the complainant had the white umbrella he was

IN SUMATRA. 149

carrying snatched from him and broken before his face. The
accused pleaded, an excuse which he thought sufficient, that
his neighbour had no right to an umbrella of that colour,
as he was a man of no pangkat. Even in their houses, till
recent times, only chiefs had the right to sleep on a mattress,
or have it protected by curtains, every one else being obliged
to sleep on a mat laid on the floor.

The performers called on by the Master of the Ceremonies
come forward and seating themselves in the open space, perform
towards the chiefs and the assembled company with graceful
respect the semhah, a form of obeisance made by placing the
hands together and bringing them to the forehead at the mo-
ment of inclining the head. Each maiden has a fan in both
hands, which she holds by fixing them before and behind alter-
nate fingers, and the performance, which consists in posturing
the arms and hands, and but little in the movement of the
feet which really scarcely stir out of the spot, can hardly be
denominated dancing. The various attitudes assumed are few
and not very elegant, and, after being repeated to all sides,
they are ended by the danseuse gradually sinking down to the
sitting position, semhahing to the company, and resuming her
seat among her fellows, when her place is taken by any two
youths whom the Ceremony-Master may call on, who go through
much the same performance in a less elegant manner. Inter-
vals in the dancing are filled up by the singing of love songs
by the young men, which are responded to by the maidens,
often in extempore verses, which are generally scratched
with needles on pieces of bamboo, and passed to their sweet-
hearts through the hands of the blaster of the Ceremonies to
be preserved by them as valuable keepsakes. Such festivals
mostly last through a whole night ; but on great occasions
often for several days and nights together.

When the festival lasts several days the forenoons are given
up to feasting, the early afternoons to sleep and talk, and
during the latter part the youth engage in the middle of the
village square in a game of ball called " simpak," in which
they vie witli each other before the maidens, as well as the
general public — who congregate in the shade of the eaves of
the surrounding houses as spectators and admirers — in the
display of the proficiency and elegance of their movements.

150 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

The game consists in the young men, who dispose themselves
in circles of as many as twenty, keeping in the air a large
hollow sphere, made of rattan cords neatly twisted together,
by kicking it only with the side of the foot as it descends —
touching with any other part of the body being out of rule.
In dealing the kick, the limb is swung out with great vigour
almost perpendicularly, while the body is thrown back nearly
to the horizontal position, and the beauty of the play consists,
besides keeping the ball continually in the air from player to
player, in the elegant leap witli which the body is brought
back to the erect posture without the player changing his
foot-ground ; and the more elegant these movements — and
really very elegant they are^ — the greater favour and applause
the player wins among his female spectators.

On tiring of this, various couples engage in a species of
dance — the relic of a war dance — full of spirited action, and of
a character quite different from that to which the nights are
devoted.

When in the small hours of the morning the finale of sucli
a festival takes place, the maidens are escorted home by the
young men, who flank their wards, each bearing a great flaming
torch, which now reflected in the water of some wide stream
which must be crossed, now blinking through the trees of some
forest-skirted path produces a most pleasing effect as the
various parties wend their different ways from the village.

Their homegoings end — in what land do they not? — in the
old tale. He who has long spent his evenings by the rice
block — a large heavy log of wood, with a conical hole in it, in
which the rice corns are husked by being stamped by a long
pole — admiring, as well as assisting, the maiden of his choice
in her work, (which displays more than any other employment
the grace and beauty of the female figure,) is at length
rewarded. The sign of engagement is often a ring, but more
generally the youth and the maiden exchange some portion
of their garments.

As a rule the engagement is kept secret from the parents
ill near the time when the youth desires to marry. When
he goes to the parents of the girl his real difficulties begin.
A daughter is so much property, and cannot be lightly
allowed to leave her father's roof without fetching an equiva-

IN SUMATRA. 151

lent. The Government has now enacted that all marriages
shall be without let or consideration, between " him who will
with her who will," but the system of djudjur (or price to
be paid for a wife), sanctified by generations of custom, it
is almost impossible to prevent, as when a fair sum is not
paid, the girl's father can always raise insurmountable diffi-
culties, so that, in fact, the djudjur is almost invariably paid,
and is in amount according to the status of the youth, and
of the parents of the bride. When this has been (sid) rosa, of
course) satisfactorily arranged, the parents of the youth and
of the girl must appear before the chief of the village (if they
belong to the same village, or to both chiefs if the parties
belong to different villages) to give official information that
their children wish to marry. This is the hatrangcm {trang, is
clear) of the affair ; it is, in fact, the publication of the banns.
After this has taken place, it is legal for the parents to receive
a small fixed gift (marriage gold, as it is called), but any
demand for a greater sum is penal.

The system of djudjur has acted, and still acts, very detri-
mentally on the population, for, as a rule, the sum demanded
by a father for his daughter's hand is so great that many
young men cannot afford to marry ; and as children born out of
wedlock are from of old considered to be a stigma on the village,
the people have increased but little in number. Of course if a
youth should complain to the magistrate that he cannot marry
the girl of his choice on account of the large sum demanded
by her father, the magistrate would at once interfere ; but it is
very rare thtit any complaint is made, the youth preferring to
pay the djudjur, beaten down to the lowest figure possible.

If, however, the youth chooses he may marry the girl in the
manner known as "ambil anak " (literally, "taking a child"),
in which case the father of the girl receives the husband into
his house as one of his children, bound to labour in her place,
for him absolutely.

In effect, by this form of marriage, the husband becomes the
slave of his wife ; he is bjuud to do all that she may demand,
and, should he rue his bargain and obtain a divorce, the
children of the union remain with her, and he goes out as he
came into the house — portionless. It always remains open to
him, however, should he fall heir to any property, to pay the

152 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

djucljur and remove his wife to a home of his own. If a man
have a hirger family of danghters than of sons, it is very
customary for the eldest son to bring a wife to his father's
house, but for the rest of the sons to go to the houses of their
mothers-in-law, and for the daughters either to bring their
husbands to their mother's house also, in order that her
parents may reap the benefit of their labour, or to migi-ate
to their husbands' homes. Where a man's only child is a
daughter, marriage is almost always by " ambil anak."

With the richer members of the community it is a matter of
pride to pay djudjur for their wives. When no agreement
can be come to about the djudjur between the youth and the
parents of the girl, the two often elope together to the man's
village (if they belong to different villages, or to another
village if they be of the same village), in which she is placed
in the house of his father, but, if she is of higher rank than
himself, in the house of the head of the village. The father of
the girl pursues with an armed following, and, being met at
the entrance of the village by a like force, a fight (nowadays
a sham fight) takes place in front of the Balai, in which the
father of the maiden allows himself to be overcome, whereupon
an adjournment is made within the building, and matters
are amicably settled, the day ending with football, dancing,
cock-fighting, and festivities. Their marriage ceremony fol-
lows the Mahomedan rites.

From Tiohmomon I continued my way to Penanggungun.
I was greatly surprised to see, even in the smallest villages,
the universal use of two articles of western civilisation —
petroleum oil and paraffin matches. There was scarcely a
dwelliu": in a villa":3 of even eiji-ht to ten houses in this

o o o

out-of-the-way corner of the world in which this oil was
not the illuminating medium ; if there was not in the
house another article of western origin, there was a lamp,
often of a most elegant and costly pattern, of gilt brass, and
complete with wheel and pulley apparatus. I daily saw
packhorses laden with De Voe's well-known boxes passing
through the villages to more distant places. Nearly every
native, too, produces from a fold of his cotton kilt, or his head-
cloth, when he wants " fire," one of the little yellow-papered
chip boxes, with " Patent paraffinerade siikerhets tiindstikor

IN SUMATRA. 153

utan svafvel och fosfor," which arrive in these parts from
Sweden — if not also from the " fabriks " of swindling China-
men in Singapore — by the hundred thousand.

There is scarcely a western article but the Chinamen have
introduced its counterfeit here, sometimes with such wonder-
ful ingenuity that, even when anathematising them, one cannot
help feeling a sort of respect for their perseverance and assi-
duity even in evil doing. This broad dissemination of tand-
stickors has driven into oblivion the savage's picturesque
friction block. He strikes his matcli on the box and lights
his cigarette at the flame, guarding it from wind between his
half-closed hands, as if he were a native of the Isles of the
Blest. Though one is certainly pleased enough to have those
commodities ready to one's hand, yet it is decidedly disap-
pointing not to be able to outrun civilisation ; one would fain
see " some new thing," some strange artifice or curious custom.
To the ethnographical student, the latest Paris designs in
the furniture of a Polynesian or New Guinean hut must be
extremely interesting and edifying !

Penanggungan was quite an embryo village in the middle
of a fresh clearing in a piece of very ancient forest, and conse-
quently a rich botanical hunting-ground. In its near vicinity
grew one of the grandest Vrosti<jma trees I have ever seen ;
its broad buttresses and sturdy supporters, among which a
wanderer might almost lose himself, looking like the pillars
of some ancient Moorish temple. It was thick in fruit,
and harboured legions of skipping squirrels, great apes, and
troops of monkeys, which, to the eye surveying them from
below, looked like pigmies flitting about amid its branches.
Immense flocks of the large fruit-pigeons, and of the smaller
members of that numerous and beautiful family, crowded to
this rendezvous, their wings keeping up a constant whirring
in the air by their coming and going ; scores of the great
hornbill {Buceros galeatm) with their five-feet expanse of
wing, and myriads of smaller birds whose varied calls and
notes alouf! indicated their presence, flocked from far and near
to this inexhaustible storehouse (and its produce could not
be less than tens of thousands of bushels of figs), and yet the
vast assemblage but sparsely peopled this single magnificent
specimen of the vegetable kingdom.

154: A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Here also I gathered a splendid orchid {Galeola sp.) grow-
ing on damp rotting tree-trunks, climbing over the low forest,
singular in producing no foliage but putting forth a stem pro-
fusely flowering at short nodes for forty feet in length, with
blossoms of a rich yellow colour. In the depths of the forest
I found the large Baffiesia arnoldi and HasseUii, and the
smaller but handsomer Brugmanda Lowii.

On the giant Urosti.gma I shot several specimens of
Bucerotidse, the white-crested Hydrocisa aJhirosiris, and the
great hornbill (Buceros galeatus), whose heavy scarlet hammer-
fronted casque, which it uses to beat with far-resounding
thuds the branches of the trees, draws upon it a severe perse-
cution, as in Palembang each head commands a large price,
for out of its dense white ivory-like consolidated horn, are
manufactured studs and sleeve-links of great beauty. The
casque in most species of this family is a cancellated structure
permeated by blood-vessels so teased out as to give it great
lightness, that it is difficult to understand why in this
species it should be so solid and heavy ; yet, notwithstanding,
no bird could flit about more lightly in the tree-tops, or
gather its food more agilely. In a longitudinal section of the
head and casque of this bird, the thick horny hammering por-
tion, as well seen in the figure opposite, has behind it a layer of
dense bone to which osseous bars radiate towards the occipital
condyle, where the head joins with the neck, and pass above
and around the brain cavity, to protect it in a most beautiful
way from shock. The brain cavity is thus lodged below the
line of shock, and is besides separated from the casque by
padding in the shape of a cartilaginous joint. To Professor
Flower I am indebted for directing my attention to the
beautiful section in the Museum of the lloyal College of
Surgeons sketched here, whose structure had indeed led him
to infer, before he knew the fact, that the bird must use its
head as a hammering instrument.

In a neighbouring stream, flitting from stone to stone, I
obtained the lively Hydrosichla ignicapillus, a bird in habit
and colour closely resembling the true wagtails ; and on its
banks the horned frogs {Megalophrijs nmuta) were abundant,
whose anvil-like clinking " kang-kang " filled the air in the
evenings ; but, in simulating so closely the dead leaves among

7^ SUMATRA.

155

which they hiy, it required the closest search to find them.
Lying flat on the ground, their sharp acute horns mimicked
the points of leaves, from which lines radiated representing
crossing and overlapping margins, while dark-brown spots and

HEAD OF BVCEROS, AND SECTION OF ITS CRANIUM.

markings distributed over their bodies could not be told from
the blotches and fungoid growths of decaying vegetation. In
coitn the male embraces tlie female round tlie lumbar region.

Oil shooting a Siamang in our liigli Vrostigma preserve,
my hunter found, on picking it up, a young one clasped in

156 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

its embrace, to all appearance dead also. Both of them he
brought home slung on a pole. Cutting their thongs, he threw
them down on the verandah and went off again. Being
very busy, I had taken no notice of them till a movement
caused me to look up, when I saw the young ape quietly
making tracks for the stairway ; but I quickly secured him,
despite his screams and vigorous attempts to bite. It had
been only stunned by a pellet on the head, and had no bones
broken. In a very short time it tamed down and became
a most delightful companion. Its expression of countenance
was most intelligent, and at times almost human ; but in
captivity it often wore a sad and dejected aspect, which quite
disappeared in its excited moods. With what elegance and
gentleness it used to take wliat was offered it with its delicate
taper fingers, which, like its head, are more anthropoid (except
for their hairiness) than any other ape's ! It would never
put its lips to a vessel to drink, but invariably lifted the water
to its mouth by dipping in its half-closed hand and awkwardly
licking the drops from its knuckles. The gentle and caressing
way in which it would clasp me round the neck with its long
arms, laying its head on my chest, uttering a satisfied crooning
sound, was most engaging. Every evening it used to make
with me a tour round the village square, with its hand on
my arm, enjoying the walk apparently as much as I did.
It was a most curious and ludicrous sight to see it erect on its
somewhat bandy legs, hurrying along in the most frantic haste,
as if to keep its head from outrunning its feet, with its long
free arm see-sawing in a most odd way over his head to
balance itself.

That they can leap the great distances from tree to tree
ascribed to them is, I think, incorrect ; for durins: the fellinf--
of the forest near the village, when a little colony of Siamangs
got cut off from the branches of the nearest trees by some
thirty feet only, they scampered up and down the tree
howling in the most abject terror at every stroke of the axe,
yet without venturing to leap the intervening space, and
even wheu it was falling they did not attempt to save
themselves by springing to the ground, but perishetl in the
crash of the tree. The Siamang and the Ongka {Hijalohates
variegatus), an allied but smaller ape, are the most interesting

IN SUMATRA. 157

of the Quadramana to be met with in this region, the Orang-
utan not being found so far in the south.

Continuing my journey, skirting round an elbow of 3It.
Tengamus, I descended on the viUage of Terratas, looking
down on the Bay of Semangka with its mountainous shores,
and on the peaked summit of the island of Tabuang standing
out of the motionless water. In one of the little ravines I
gathered specimens of a singular climbing shrub {La gen aria)
with immense semi-globular fruits over two feet seven inches
in eircimiference. Though in size so large they are quite
light, their seeds being small and winged with a broad
glancing membrane, thinner than the finest white tissue paper,
which serves as a float to disseminate them.

Two days later I made the ascent of the mountain, which,
owing to its fissured and chasmed character, was tedious
and difficult. Passing through a dense belt of wild bananas
and Zingiberiaceous plants, then a zone of disagreeable rattan-
palms, we broke into the deep, dark virgin forest, beneath
whose shade little or nothing was to be found growing, save
here and there an arum with a curious serpent-head-like
spathe, or in bright scarlet fruit ; but at 3000 feet I , was
gladdened by entering a belt of Ixora trees in one mass
of scarlet flowers, which, as the mountain rose abruptlyj
had a fine effect viewed from above. In the damper regions
a little higher, the tree-trunks began to be more densely
clothed with orchids and ferns and climbers of all kinds;
and here and there, high in the angles of the branches,
scarlet Azaleas, which had crept down the mountain out of
the temperate heights as far as they might dare. At 5000
feet I gathered Horsfield's Dipteris fern, which seems too
delicate to thrive well at home though it is a denizen of the
higher mountains of the tropics, accompanied by great fields
of a handsome species of bracken {Gleichenia fjJauca). At
5400 feet I halted for the night in a small hut that I had a
day or two iirovioiisly had erected for our accommodation on
the verge of the more temperate region of the mountain, where
the trees became smaller and more stunted and were loaded
with licliens, mosses and feathery lycopods, and which turned
out to be the lowest limit of the pitcher-plants.

Few signs of animal life were observed, except the spoor of
12

158 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the tapir, and high up the wallowing holes of the rhinoceros,
and footprints of the rare mountain antelope [Antilocarpa suma-
trana) ; the intermittent low booming note of the large fruit-
pigeons {Carpopliaga hadia) answering each other at roost, and
the chattering cries of flocks of Babblers (GarruJax palliatus)
at play in the distant tree-tops, filled the woods, but they
never approached near enough to afford a chance of securing
them for specimens.

The night was A^ery disagreeable, for our hut of branches
and leaves leaked freely, and the dense smoke which issued
from the wet wood fire, round which my boys crouched with
chattering teeth, was painful to eyes and throat. I have often
been surprised that the native, who, in the low grounds, goes
about and even sleeps in all weathers nearly naked, when I
with my European clothing have felt it quite chilly, almost
at once succumbs to the low temperature in the mountain
heights, and often actually dies before he can descend. A
few hours round a blazing fire after a hot Jorum of coffee re-
invigorated them somewhat, and far into ti:ie night the woods
resounded to the weird monotonous chant of one of those
epics to which the Lamponger is never tired of listening, and
which his country is famed for, such as the Herculean exploits
of that great hero, Anak Dalom, who, miraculously escaping
from the interior of a bamboo, played the part of another
^neas along these shores. At length, when one by one they
dropped off to doze, with their chins on their knees, their
heads buried in their sarongs, the intense silence of the forest
reigned, which even the moaning of the trees and the shriii
screaming of the cicads could not disturb.

Kesuming our ascent, I found that at 5800 feet the Dipteris
horsfieldi increased in abundance, while lichens and mosses
padded every stone, tree-trunk, and lower branch with a thick
springy cushion of moss, among which everywhere the elegant
flagons of the Pitcher- plants were embedded or swayed grace-
fully from projecting twigs. Here also, among the moss and
on the fallen trees, a pretty Cynibidium, an epiphytic orchid
with dark-green crisp foliage, carpeted in profusion the hol-
lows and knolls. The whole mountain above 5800 feet seemed
as if intentionally laid out in a gigantic rockery, up which the
path wound under moss-padded arches, and over boulders on

IN SUMATBA. 159

which choice flowers had been phinted ; and as we ascended,
other species of orcliids appeared, and shrnbby Rhododendrons
with bright scarlet bells, {R. tuhijloram and malayanum).
Nearer the top, the vegetation was mostly composed of lean-
armed and straggling myrtles and shrubs of the heather-bell
family.

Crowds of blue-bottle flies, a few bees, a couple of lepidop-
tera, and a small bird, with a PZoef ?/s-like chirp, flitting about
among the tall reeds, represented life at 7200 feet.

Before descending, I stood to watch the gathering of the
clouds, which in the wet season begin toward midday to en-
velope the mountain-crests. Here and there Avhite masses, like
puffs of steam, would suddenly appear over the wooded lands
below^, principally over deep and naturally cold ravines, till the
whole landscajDC was dotted with little flocks of cloiuls, and
occasionally, even while I was looking, a white cloud would
suddenly condense along the margin of the sea, and, travelling
inward up the mountain side as a dense fog, which finally
descended in heavy rain just as I got back with my collection
to the rest-house of the previous evening.

Next morning I descended to the Balai at Terratas. After
several days of drying and packing up my collections, I started
back for our camp at Penanggungan, to prepare for my return
to Telok-betong on my way to Batavia.

The road at this season, now well on in the wet monsoon,
though of no great length, was excessively bad, so that tlie
transport of my bulky herbarium in a dry condition became an
anxious and difficult matter. Things went well till we reached
the steep climb to the top of the pass at 2000 feet — eight hours
of hard trudging, plunging and scrambling, with feet, legs,
and bodies bleeding from thousands of leeches. From the top
of the pass the road lay along a nearly level plateau for many
miles, through, virgin forest. Hero the rain came down in
cold, heavy lines, flooded the path and enlivened the army of
leeches, which wriggled and stretched their green, bloodthirsty
necks from every leaf and blade of grass. The journey at
last became a dogged, cheerless trudge ; I was past caring
for any change of weather ; things were as bad as they could
be. Not a singh; word was uttered, except the intermittent
" AU'-il-allahs " — whose very woe-begoneness made me smile in

160 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

spite of the general misery of things — as the coolies changed
their carrying-poles from shovilder to shoulder.

At nightfall we reached a small cluster of huts, where we
camped thankfully for the night : and next day before noon
the terrible burden was deposited with thankfulness within
my old camp, where I found my Siamang in a sad state,
suffering from a suppurating finger and tooth. On lancing
the one, and extracting the other, the poor creature seemed
greatly relieved, and I was delighted to watch it recover
without having contracted any antipathy, but rather the
reverse, for me. It accompanied me to Telok-betong, occu-
pying with great composure during the long journey a seat on
the top of one of my large packages, sheltering its head, to
the amusement of all whom we met, under a Cliinese umbrella
which I had bought for it, and for which, after every halt, it
held out its hand in the most knowing way, screaming lustily
if the porters dared to move on before it had comfortably
arranged itself.

I took it with me to Batavia, where I gave it to a friend to
keep till a good opportunity should occur of sending it to
London. It managed, however, to escape, and unfortunately
took to the evil practice of hiding in the tops of the cocoa-nut
trees, and dropping down — in the most playful way, I have
not a doubt — its fruits on the passers by, till some irate half-
caste, who had narrowly escaped a broken head, unworthily
put an end to a most charming existence, to my deep regret.

IN TEE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 161

CHAPTER III.

SOJOUKN IN THE TALEMBANG RESIDENCY.

From Biitavia to Anjer— Eeturn to Telok-betong — Proceed to Bcneawanj; —
Leave this for tlie Blalau region — Camp at Sanglii — Camp in the
forest — Phosphorescent display — Cam]i again in forest — Reach Bumi-
padang — Pass on to Batu-brali — Description of the village — Move on to
Kenali — Description of the village — Proceed to Hoodjoong — Description of
the village — Its tobacco industry — Its rice-fields — Planting and reaping —
Superstitions — Goitre — Fauna and flora of the Besagi volcano — Birds
and insects of the neighbourhood.

Having despatched my collections to England, in the middle
of December, I turned my steps once more to Sumatra, to
investigate the Highlands of the Bencoolen and Palembang
Residencies. Just then, because of a break in the cable
between Anjer and Telok-betong, a Government steamer was
plying to keep up communication between the two stations,
which the autliorities kindly allowed me to make use of, if I
should choose to proceed by that way. Accordingly, a day's
ride in a Kaliar brought me to Anjer, where I renewed my
acquaintance with the beautiful view obtained from the
verandah of the little that ivas there. Alas ! that I should
have to write ivas : for the cruel Krakatoa wave of dawn of the
23rd August, 1883, washed away the village, and with it the
little inn and the kind Dutch landlady and her whole family.
Having crossed to Telok-betong, I proceeded after a short
delay across country to Bcneawang at the top of the Semangka
Bay. As I was making for the slopes of the Besagi volcano,
the easiest route would have been to take steamer to Kroe, on
the west coast, and thence by road eastwards; but I was
desirous of seeing the scenery and the vegetation along the
valley of the Semangka river, which, running south through
the Sawali IMountains, falls into the sea at the top of its own
bay. Although it was reported to be a very rarely followed
route, I decided to attempt the journey ; but it proved a more

162 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

difficult one than I had anticipated. I could find nobody to
accompany me \vho had ever traversed the road before, or
who could give me the least information as to the distance
between their own last village and Batu-brah, the nearest in
the Kroe district. The road at its commencement lay along
the triangular plain occupying the cleft where the Barisan
Mountains branch to form the eastern and western boundaries
of the bay. Beaching in the afternoon the village of Sangi,
at the confluence of the Samung with the Semangka, I en-
camped for the night in its Balai.

Next morning, crossing the Samung in small prahus, accom-
panied by twenty-five porters I proceeded along tlie eastern
bank of the Semangka. As its stream, where at length the
path crossed to the opposite side, was running with a very swift
current and was nearly six feet deep, a difficult obstacle was
presented to our progress. An hour was lost in building a raft,
and a second in transporting the baggage. As the last pack-
ages, luckily for us, were being brought over rain began to fall,
and within an hour of its commencement it would have been
impossible to have crossed. The river runs between hills
which for fifty miles rise very abruptly from its banks, and aug-
mented by contributory streams rushing down steep, boulder-
studded slopes, it swells with great suddenness. Over these
violent side-torrents every bundle had to be transported by
many carriers, each holding it by one hand, and steadying
himself by grasping his neighbour with the other. In this
operation several narrow escapes occurred ; for, once losing
foothold, no human aid could have prevented one from being
swept into the main stream, boiling and roaring past in some
places 150 feet below us, and often thirty yards in breadth.

The track was of the worst character possible, being ob-
structed by fallen trees and huge blocks of stone, and in many
places obliterated by landslips, and often, where the distance
between the trees was not sufficiently wide to admit between
them the larger packages, a halt had to be made for the
obstructing stems to be 'felled. Our intended halt for the
night was a forest hut ; but none of my convoy knew where or
how far distant it was, if it existed at all. As the day wore on
I became very anxious, for tigers .abounded, and we had been
crossing and following the fresh tracks of a herd of elephants

7^ THE EASTERN ARCBJPELAOO. 163

all day. As it was Christmas time, and we were near the fifth
parallel of south latitude, darkness was due shortly after six
o'clock.

At half-past five I desired to encamp for the night, hut
the ground was so wet and the leeches so numerous that the
carriers begged me to keep on. The more heavily-laden
porters had fallen gradually behind out of call, and those near
me had become very rebellious under the distressing condition
of things. Suddenly, even though expecting it, darkness fell
on us, so dense that I could not see even the outline of the
porter immediately in front of me. Buoyed up, however, by
the hope that after twelve hours' march the hut must surely
be near, we plodded on, till compelled by the ruggedness of
the road to halt, with the intention of making a torch to Yi^ht
the rest of our way.

The only dry wood Avithin reach was the interior of the
bamboo, on which the baggage was slung. One of these was
hastily undone and cut up, but no one had a dry match !
I\ry own stock was with the part of the baggage in the rear.
]\[y servant, however, had a flint and some tinder, ^ith which,
after a great struggle, he managed to light a cigarette. The
only thing possible now was to try to make the cigarette
ignite the dry scrapings from the interior of the bamboo. At
length they caught ; and hope brightened with the rising
smoke ; but a big raindrop drowned them both. For nearly
an hour wo laboured in vain to " make " fire, and the idea of
lighting a torch or of proceeding further had to be abandoned.

Tlie porters had thrown themselves on halting on the wet
ground, and were fast asleep. All of us were drenched, but
with the part of the baggage by me was, luckily, my water-
proof sheet, containing a change of clothes and my Ulster-coat.
After several attempts to adjust the projjer garments to the
respective portions of the body for which they were made, and
throwing the waterproof sheet over my head, I sat down on a
box to bravci till morning the rain and the beasts of the forest,
my hands tlirust deep into my Ulster pockets. To my delight,
my fingers found a piece of linen cloth bone dry. Starting up,
r roused the man with the flint and rasp. We hammered away
industriously for a weary length of time; at last we were
rewarded — the tinder liad caught. It is i)npossible to relate

164 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

in words how anxiously I nursed that fledgling fire ; how
tenderly I held it in the hollow of my hands while my " boy "
fanned it gently ; when it had grown a little, how we reared it
in a hat before transplanting it to the ground where it almost
expired from its cold touch, but the immense native umbrella-
like hat shielded it till it was able to take care of itself.
All hands were then roused to gather wood, and we had at
length the satisfaction of feeling that the tigers would give us
a wide berth, and no elephant, unless a rogue, would trample
us down. Except a handful of rice at the ford, neither myself
nor my men had tasted food since dawn, and, possessing a fire,
we were hopeful that we might cook also ; but, of course,
the eatables were in the other part of the baggage ! ^.rhere
was nothing, therefore, to be done but to sit down with what
patience each could command and wait for morning.

If things were the opposite of comfortable or bright for my
companions, I myself felt not a little compensated by the
singular appearance of the forest, which was everywhere phos-
phorescent. The stem of every tree blinked with a pale
greenish-white light, which undulated also across the surface
of the ground like moonlight coming and going behind the
clouds — from a minute threadlike fungus invisible in the day-
time to the unassisted eye ; and here and there thick dumpy
mushrooms displayed a sharp clear dome . of light, whose
intensity never varied or changed till the break of day ; long
phosphorescent caterpillars and centipedes crawled out of
every corner, leaving a trail of light behind them, while fire-
flies darted about above like a lower firmament. Trying to
conceive what were the respective benefits, conferred by this
wonderful luminosity on these so Avidely separated species
of living things, I dozed off to the lullaby of the weird forest
moan, the clanging " kang-kang " of the horned frogs, and
the not unmelodious wail of some night bird.

Break of the next day showed us in what a miserable spot
we had encamped — on the edge of a rocky cliff, under the
drip of the trees, not below their shade. We gathered together
the scattered articles of baggage, which had been deposited
anywhere and everywhere. Near me, hanging by its feet
to a carrying-pole dead, drowned by the rain, I found the
fowl for which I groped about, listening for its cackle

m THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 165

the evening before. Resuming our journey faint and in
low spirits, we reached the dammar-gatherer's hut within
an hour's walk. The dead fowl, hastily boiled with a little
rice which had soured in the rain, was partaken of without
complaint. The nearest baggage came in some two hours
after us, the porters having camped without fire or shelter
not far from myself, but the heavier part did not arrive
till late in the afternoon, and not until I had sent out a
relief convoy. AVhen it arrived tlie men were too tired to
proceed further that day, so we spent the night where we were.
At sunset we feasted luxuriously, we thought, on the solitary
fowl belonging to the owner of the hut, carefully reserving a
limb for next day's breakfast.

The remembrance of our dismal surroundings on that
evening haunts me still — a miserable hovel gauntly raised
like a railway signal-box on high posts, in a clearing in the
heart of the forest, amid the wild and melancholy confusion of
felled trees, and with our view shut in by grey fleecy rain-
clouds hanging in banks on the hills and low down on the
tree-tops. The screaming of the cicads and the "koo-ow" of
the Argus pheasants seemed more mournful than usual; there
was nothing lively anywhere to relieve the gloom. In the
little space which they had respectfully railed oif for me I
retired early to rest, and slept comfortably, notwithstanding the
smoke from a wood fire and a spluttering dammar lamp, the
steam from drying clothes and the aroma that filled the cabin,
into which twenty-eight of us had managed to squeeze.

Next day the grey morning had hardly appeared before we
were again on the march, striding along as fast as the deep
tracks made by a bevy of elephants which had traversed the
road the night before, permitted us. Mr. Wallace, in his
' Malay Archipelago,' says "of the great Mammalia of Sumatra,
the elephant and the rhinoceros, the former is much more
scarce than it was a few years ago, and seems to retire rapidly
before the spread of civilisation. About Lobo Raman [a
district more to the north-east in the Palembang Residency]
tusks and bones are occasionally found, but the living animal
is now never seen." In the district I was traversing the opposite
seemed to hold. AVithin twenty miles of Telok-l)etong I have
crossed a wide area over which elephants had committed

166 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

depredations but a few hours before my coming. The village
people in these districts complained of the constant ravages
done by them in their fields and pepper gardens, while the
forest everywhere abounded with their tracks. Of the rhino-
ceros, on the other hand, I saw traces only a few times.

Some miles on in the forest we came upon a large stone by
the side of the path, sujjposed to possess some influence over
things terrestrial, for, as each of the porters passed it, he
plucked a handful of leaves and, placing them on the stone,
prayed for a dry day and good luck.* Whether it was through
the influence of the stone or not we got a dry day, and I
only wished that we had met with it somewhat sooner. All
tliat day we pushed on by the side of the Semangka, which
glided past us deep and noiselessly through a level plateau,
crossing more than once from the one side to the other by
some giant tree that had fallen from bank to bank, through
dense forest in a sombre winding lane, beyond which we
could see nothing but blinks of the sky, except where now
and then it opened out on pretty sandy beaches which swarmed
with species of metallic tiger-beetles and sand-bees, and where
Sulphur (Terias) and Swallow-tailed butterflies {Charaxes and
Appias), in gyrating flocks played on the damp ground by the
water's edge.

Towards evening, emerging from the forest, our eyes were
delighted by the sight of a small cluster of houses, the village
of Bumi-padang, '•' the field of the world," lying a mile off, in
a large open alluvial amphitheatre. But, the path suddenly
giving out, presently we found ourselves floundering to the
thighs at every step in a deep morass swarming with enormous
leeches, out of which we could not extricate ourselves, as it
seemed to stretch in every direction except behind us. On
observing us the head of the marga and his chieflings, with
the usual crowd following, came out to welcome and attend us
back to the village. They came to the edge of the bog and
sat down to await us ; and doubtless the sight of our scattered
cavalcade floundering in the slough afforded them not a little
amusement — it was ludicrous enough to ourselves.

Here I dismissed the porters brought from the coast, and
with a new retinue pressed forward with the break of day.
* See below in the closing Chapter of this book.

IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 167

The road towards the high plateau of my destination rose at a
steep incline, and with the rain that had recently fallen was
horribly slippery; but the worst road has always something to
brighten it, for where it approached or rose above 2000 feet I
was gratified by finding broad fields of brightly coloured
purple, yellow and white balsams, and close to the edge of the
path many low herbaceous C>jrtandrepe, a family with chaste
foliage and flowers ; tall terrestrial orchids of numerous
sorts, and many species of ferns. At dark we entered the
village of Batu-brah, and I found ready for me, as the news of
my coming had preceded me, a royal — compared with my late
experiences — sleeping apartment in the Balai, with a table
groaning under a load of fruits.

In the morning I was agreeably surprised by finding myself
in a village of a character quite different from any that I had
yet visited in Sumatra. The houses were high, large, and
substantially built of planks raised for five or six feet on im-
mense pillars formed of the largest trees of the forest, with
pyramidal roofs, surrounded by an elegant ramshorn-like
ornament universally used in the district, cut out of pumice
blocks or of tree-fern roots, with a piece of mirror or a bright
stone let into it to glitter in the sun. I did not camp here,
but continued to Kenali, the capital of the marga, a large and
very old village some miles eastward. Both sides of the road
were fully cultivated with coffee, rice, but principally tobacco,
for which this region of Sumatra is famed. Indian corn is
also grown in considerable quantity, along with European and
sweet potatoes and cabbages of excellent quality.

On our way we crossed a small tributary of the Semangka,
which, at a little distance below the ford, narrowing from a
river of thirty yards to one of a yard or a yard and a-half
wide, dashed itself into a frothy torrent down a narrow rocky
gorge in a series of falls for about 100 feet into the main river.
The falls reminded me of those of the Clyde at Stonebyres ;
they are more picturesque, but less imposing from the diffi-
culty of viewing them from below where the cascade plunges
into the main river. The road from Batu-brah to Kenali runs
along a high })lateau of about oOOO feet above the sea, extend-
ing between the Barisan range and the volcanoes of Bosagi
and Sekindjau, and is composed of mingled clay and a sandy

168 A NATURALIST'S WANDERTNGS

pumice-stone tufa Avhicb, mixed with the black humus from
the forests of centuries, has given its great fertility to the
soil of this region.

The village, situated on a high bluif looking down on the
river, is one of the oldest in the district, and is certainly one
of the finest, cleanest, and most elegantly arranged that I had
visited. One of its most noticeable features Avas its decora-
tive art. The massive pillars, as well as the super-imposed
beams and framework of the dwellings, were entirely covered
with rich, intricate, and really beautiful carvings in au
extremely hard black wood, which, after one hundred and fifty
years by their data, appeared jDcrfectly fresh and soimd. The
supporting beams, which rested on the pillars, projected some
feet beyond the corners, and were ornamented with carved
terminals, somewhat like the figure-head of a ship. A broad
stairway of wood, sometimes with rails elaborately carved,
led up to the doors. The windows were constructed of solid
blocks of wood cut into oval or straight apertures, which
could be closed by a correspondingly cut and rotating piece of
wood in the inside. The divisions between the apertures were
ornamented on the outside with different colours or inlaid
with elegant designs in mother-of-pearl. The sides of most of
the houses were made of panels of wood let into a grooved
framework and accurately fitted, with the aid of very few tools,
and often without a single nail. The Balai, always the best
looked-after building in a village, was covered everywhere
with rich carvings.

Finding to my disappointment that Kenali was too far from
the Besagi Mountain where I wished specially to collect for
a time, to suit as my headquarters, I was reluctantly compelled
to remove to another village nearer its foot, some nine or ten
miles further on.

Descending two hundred and fifty feet from the village, we
reached the level of the river, and proceeded along its bank
on a narrow alluvial flat for several miles by the edge of rice-
fields, beautifully cultivated in quadrangular plots rising in
gentle terraces, from which the irrigating water of the higher
beds was conveyed by a neat contrivance of bamboo pipes
passing under the dividing dykes and bent upwards to dis-
charge in the lower terraces as low fountains, which had a

IN THE EASTERN ABCHIPELAGO. 169

pretty effect in eacli of these miniature green-walled ponds,
whose surface, save where tlie fountains played and for the
silent circles of each outflow-vortex, was unbroken by a single
ripple. As the terraces rose but little above each other, the
blue sky was reflected as in a mirror along the whole valley,
while the bright green of the young corn peeping up above the
surface, by giving a green colour to the mirror without in the
least breaking to the eye the placid surface of the water, or
interfering with perfect reflection of the ever-changing face of
the sky, produced a beautiful effect impossible to describe in
words. Here and there, adding life to the scene, in the midst
of these fields were smoking cottages embowered in groves of
Eriodendroii and Acacia trees.

Fording the river, the road took us, after a steep ascent, for
several miles along almost a knife-ridge under a grand old
avenue of virgin forest, at whose termination I half expected
to find a stately castle or an ancient ruin. As we approached
the village the forest became less dense, and we passed between
a line of tall red-leaved Hanjuangs (Calodracon Jacqiiinii),
a shrub sacred to their graveyards. Under this avenue of
mourning, just outside the village gate, was laid out that one
institution, at all events, common to the most exalted civilisa-
tion and the most debased barbarism — the Home of the dead.
Each little mound, often surmounted by circular ornamented
pillars of wood diverging from each other at opposite ends of
the grave within a fenced and neatly tended inclosure, was
planted with Crotons and beautiful-leaved shrubs.

The village itself surprised me not a little. It might have
been a feudal castle. As its name, Hoodjoong or '* the village
on the verge," implies, it was situated at the extremity of
the long narrow ridge along which I had come, and was in-
accessible, owing to precipitous slopes dipping down into the
deep valley on all sides except on the one we had approached
it by, and there the road, rising in a short steep incline, passed
into the village under a narrow gateway cut out of the soft
tufa which hid the village till it was passed. All that was
wanted to complete the picture was a battlemented tower or
two over it, and the chains of a drawbridge and portcullis.
The village looked down into a deep alluvial valley laid out
in rice-plots along the banks of a stream whose double sources

170 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

could be seen as a couple of waterfalls, like long white streaks
high up in the face of the Besagi, which formed the back-
ground of the view.

The villagers employed themselves chiefly in the cultivation
of tobacco, sold under the name of Ranau tobacco, which,
though not the true article, is little inferior to what is grown
on the borders of the lake of that name. Great attention was
given also to the cultivation of rice, which they grew as in
Java, on the wet system, in plot-divided terraces. In Java
the plots are allowed to run dry after the fields are harvested ;
but here not so, as they were kept carefully stocked with small
fishes, which afforded to their owners a large food supply, while
the mollusks, which infest the sides and bottom of these tanks,
are abundantly eaten by the natives, who obtain from their
calcined shells the lime for their betel-chewing. Several deep
plots were entirely appropriated to the propagation of fish, and
in them Water-lilies {Symnanthemum) and other aquatic plants
grew in great luxuriance, dotting the surface with their large
white and pink or yellow flowers, and giving to the fields the
appearance of a garden.

The only periods when a really industrious spirit seems
to prevail among these people are during the planting and the
reaping seasons. Then the whole family — men, as well as
women and children — turn out to assist, and remain in the
fields from morning till dusk.

Before beginning to plant the crop, a charm is placed in a
favourable and fertile spot in one of the plots, in order to secure
a good harvest. Four of the finest ears of jjaddy from the pre-
ceding crop are stuck into the ground in the form of a square,
and by the side of each a little wand of the leaf of the Areng
palm, to whose extremity is bound a little packet of cotton-
wool inclosing a few rice-grains of large size ; in the centre of
the square is planted a stem of Sasangai grass (which has a long
and many-corned ear), with a fruit-bearing twig of the Jambu
[Myrtaceae) on each side of it. This, being interpreted,
means : " JMay the rice of which this is a sample here grow
in these fields stout and strong, and with heads as fruitful as
this Sasangai, with corns as large as this sample, and as sweet
as the Jambu." In the harvest time this little square is left
to the end, and the lucky sheaf is carried last of all. This

IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 171

reminded me of the '' claik sheaf " of the northern counties of
Scotland, for which a rich scytheful is selected, and of the
superstitions attaching to its cutting. The fields must present
here a picturesque sight in the reaping season, and one I
should have liked to see, for the harvesters in their many-
coloured garments and hats stand in the water amid the yellow
grain and push before them narrow-pointed skiffs to receive
the heads of corn as they are snipped off.

At other seasons of the year the people are lazy enough —
that is, the male jjortion of them ; — for the women almost
entirely look after the dry-ground crops, the tobacco, cofiee,
maize, &c.., and daily go to the fields to fetch the produce,
returning with enormous loads in baskets susjaended on the
back by a cord across the forehead. The sole delight of the
men is in tending their gamecocks. The villager carries one
with him wherever he goes ; and whenever his hands are free
he may be seen with it under his arm, patting and stroking it.
It is generally tethered by a cord to an elegantly made peg
in some shady spot near the house ; and, should another cock
attack his captive pet, its owner will rush to its rescue more
speedily than he would to the cry of his child.

Here and throughout the district goitre was extremely
prevalent, nearly twenty per cent, of the people being affected.
It is ascribed by some to the great loads carried by the women
on their foreheads ; but they did not seem more subject than
the men. I saw even children of seven and eight years of age
with the beo-inninfi: of the disease. The natives themselves
ascribe it to the soil, but why they could not say. I was told
by the head of the village that in the Makakau district (to
the north) which is notorious for its goitre, seventy per cent,
are affected. The soil of the Hoodjoong district is a sandy
pumicestone tufa. It is held by some authorities that the only
important point established as to the rocks in which goitre
does not occur is the absence of limestone and metallic im-
purities, and that endemic goitre coincides with metalliferous
deposits, iron pyrites being in the fore rank. Later on in my
journey I found on the Eavvas river far less goitre, where we
have Silurian rocks and some limestone and metalliferous —
iron pyrites and gold — strata than on this pumicestone plateau,
which is non-metalliferous.

172 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Laid up for some weeks from ulcerated wounds, I was
unable personally to do so much on the higher parts of the
Besagi as I could have desired. From what my hunters and
collectors brought in, it was evident that its elevation corre-
sponds very nearly with that of the Tengamus — about 7000
feet — in the Lampongs ; myrtles, ericas, rhododendrons and
moss-loving orchids, and high-growing species of MeJasto-
macese were among the most characteristic plants. It was
trying to the temper to hear accounts of abundant tracks of
the fine goat-like antelope (Capricornis simiatrensis) whose
footprints I had so wistfully followed on the Tengamus
without success. The return of my bird hunters, however,
was always for me the great event of the day. As birds
were very abundant, my collection increased rapidly. Among
the more interesting species may be mentioned Orescius gouldi,
one of the Trogons, the orange of whose breast washes com-
pletly out in spirit of wine ; Criniger gxdturalis, two species of
Myoplioneus (M. melanura and M. dicrorhyndius), which in the
evening flitted about from stone to stone with a loud whistle,
the former quite endearing itself to me by its blackbird-
like form and habits ; Pohjpledrou chalcururus, one of the
Phasianidie ; and Arhorophila personata, a little partridge,
differing from the type in being more bluish-ash on the breast
and more closely barrred with black on the back.

I was, however, able to entomologise among the sunny avenue-
like roads that for several miles led away from the villajre,
where flocks of Cgrestes {Nijmpltcdidie), spread their chastely
marked wings flat on the ground, and delicate Lycmnidse
disported in great numbers ; of other Lepidoptera the more
interesting species may be named : CaUiduIa javanica, which
emitted a strong and disagreeable odour ; Melanitis suradeva,
on stumps of trees under the shade ; a fine new species of
Amnosia ; Eurhinia fulva, lately discovered in Tenasserim by
my friend Captain Bingham ; one of the prettiest species of the
Ecoplioridaf' ; two new species of that curious genus named by
Butler Homopsgche from their singular resemblance to a Homo-
pteron, and for which I at first took them ; and Botijs dedudalis,
a species known also from Ceylon, an island ^\ith which Sumatra
seems to have many species in common ; in Telok-betong I
netted a small moth at light, Pentacitrotus transversa, also

IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 173

represented in Ceylon. Frequenting dark-coloured tree-stems,
I observed (and secured) some fine specimens of flocks of
Amnosia decora. It lias a curious habit of settling high up,
then running down the trunk, stopping at intervals flapping its
wings ; then flying off to a neighbouring stem to perform the
same manoeuvres. A few miles from Hoodjoong I captured
the Eusemia helangeri spread out on broad leaves of Scita-
minefe. It emits a powerful odour of cloves. Several species
of lepidoptera mimic members of the Agaristidse, but I did
not discover here if Eusemia helangeri had a double. From
the island of Nias (on the west coast of Sumatra) Mr. Butler
has recently described {Ann. and Mag. of Nat. Hist., July 1884)
a moth, a species of Euscliemidfe (Panoethia iimulans) which
mimics Ophthahnis decipiens (of the Agaristidx) ; while in
Amboina, Ophthahnis liii'^ea (which belongs to the same family)
is mimicked by Artaxa simidans (of the Liparidee).
13

174 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER IV.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG EESIDENCY — Continue L

1-eave Hoodjoong — Uenurlalion — Great Avnms — Sukau — Chiefs of the Eannn
region — Tandjontr-djati on ihe llanau Lake — The high temperature of the
water — Birds, fishes, interest'ng insects — Banding Aaong — To Mnaia
Diia — Throunh Kisani — Geological notes — Kisani villages — Coat of
arms — Writing, dress, religion of Kisam people.

Leaving Hoodjoong in the end of January, I proceeded nortli
eastward towards Monnt Siminung and tlie Ranaii lake
district ; repassing on the way Kenali and Eatu-brali, I crossed
the Semangka river near its head-waters, as a small stream run-
ning in a very deep valley of soft sandstone. In descending
the face of the valley the gigantic results of denudation were
very striking, where the rain of only one season had been
sufficient to excavate enormous ravines. Even the rain of a
few days had newly washed down thousands of tons' weight
from its slopes. From this cause the whole country was
exceedingly picturesque, sculptured out into singular and
rugged outlines, steep gorges and precipitous valleys. From
such a landscape one is able to picture faintly the effect of
this vast levelling agent working ceaselessly through cycles
of time, in carving and changing the face of the country and
in planing down the mountains and table-lands, even where
protected by virgin forest.

From the crossing of the Semangka river the road to the
northward rises to the watershed of the rivers which fall on
the one hand south to the Sem.angka Bay, and on the other
into the lake Ranau and thence eastward by an arm of that
immense river system which drains the whole eastern side of
the Barisan range for more than 200 miles due north, and dis-
charges itself into the Java sea below tlie cpieer half-floating
town of l*alembang. This mountain road, 3000 feet above the

IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 175

sea, led me across as pretty and picturesque a piece of country
as one could wish to travel through, winding round tlie head of
deep glens, with occasional gorges to right and left which have
left only three feet of ridge-path betv/een them, and alono- the
face of forest-clad precipices, hundreds of feet deep below
which flowed hidden streams ^^hose murmur bubbled up from
among the trees as a pleasant music. In descending from the
plateau I found at about 2500 feet, growing in sandy soil where
it seems best to flourish, several stems of the giant arum
{Amorpliophallus titanum) one of the largest known herbs. The
biggest of thes3 specimens measured seventeen feet in heio-ht.

Descending from the northern face of the plateau, I was met
by the chief and under-chiefs of the marga, at some distance
from the village of Sukau, where I was to spend the night ;
and at the boundary of the village I was greeted by a crowd
of the inhabitants and a band consisting of three youths — one
in the middle fingered a flute which he had newly cut from a
bamboo, the two others each beat a small bronze gong botli
of them cracked, which they carried in one hand suspended
before them by a cord, tinkling it with a short twig in the
other — who played me to the Balai to the notes perhaps of
their margal anthem. Providentially the stateliness of the
occasion made conversation out of place, otherwise, had it been
necessary to open my compressed lips, I would have shocked the
fathers of the people by the heartiness of my mirth, for never have
I taken part in so ludicrous a procession Avitli so solemn a
countenance. Consider its composition : the musical advance-
guard as I have described ; the central figure under a hat as big
as an umbrella, in garments the worse of repeated conflicts \\ith
the thorns and thickets of the forest, seated on a small steed
caparisoned in a bridle with more knotted cords than leather
in its composition and in a saddle that required everv artful
device to keep it from falling to pieces, his long, great-booted
legs almost trailing on the ground ; alongside on either hand
the mute chiefs in duly solemn countenances, followed by a
rear-guard of coolies with mv ba;i-<rafre, and the ireneral crowd
of men, woirfen and children — and who would not have desired
to relieve liis twitching pent-up risorins muscles?

Next morning I continued my way towards the Lake Ranau,
and at the marches of tlie Kroe and Palembang Residencies,

176 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the confines of their territory, my hosts of Sukau took farewell,
and I was welcomed by the chiefs of the neighbouring mar-
gas, who conducted me to Tandjong-djati, the village where
I purposed to spend some time. If I was the day before
inclined somewhat to levity at the general appearance of the
procession that greeted me, I felt embarrassed the other way
on meetino; these chiefs of the Ranau district. Sedate-lookin":
men of middle age they were, dressed in neat black official
coats, spotlessly clean collars, white starched trousers with a
sarong girt about their loins, patent leather boots, and on their
lieads the imposing official cap, which I saw then for the first
time, mitre-like in shape, covered with cloth of gold, while each
carried in his hand a gold-topped stick bearing the arms of his
Majesty of Holland, the insigna of his office. They looked
such aristocratic personages and so faultlessly attired that I
felt that I ought to descend from my horse and bow myself
to the ground in return for the profound salaam with wliich
they received me.

After the usual festivities given on the visit of a white man,
in which the dancing of the maidens, attired jn their best
attire and jev.els, is always a conspicuous feature, I settled
into possession of my new home with a light and hopeful
heart, for it was situated in a district considered to be one
of the prettiest in Sumatra, by the margin of the lake
looking out on the cone of the Siminung ; but the very
night of my arrival, whether by accident or by design is
doubtful, some poisonous drug was placed in one or other
dish of my evening meal, Avhich induced profuse internal
haemorrhage that nearly jjroved fatal to me. Happily a strong
emetic rid me of the noxious ingredient, and a few days of
care restored me to my normal condition ; but it is not a
very pleasant reminiscence of the place.

The Ranau Lake lies 1700 feet above the sea level at the
foot of the now quiescent — if ever within historical times active
— volcano of the Siminung. From its shape, which is that of
two irregular circles run together, it appears to occupy the
site of an old crater. In the centre it is of extreme depth.
At various points round the margin nearest the Siminung, hot
springs of 1-I7^ F. of temperature bubble up, and warm the
greater portion of the western end from 7~ to 10^ higher than

7.V SUMATRA. 177

that of the air. It is abuiidautly stocked with fish and
bivalve mollusea ; but when they approach too near the
warmer shore, where the temperature is above 100^ F., the
water instantly proves fatal to them. These springs and the
very frequent earthquakes — no fewer than three occurred durini-
my short stay — attest that, though the volcano is now qui-
escent, the interior of the earth here is in a very unquiet state.

Tall forest trees clothed the high margins of the lake, which
descended here and there to grassy bays and level green
swamps ; on the sandy margins flourished fig-trees and Ery-
thrinas with large bright scarlet flowers, on whose crooked
stems flocks of blue herons {Butorides javanica) and pure
white egrets (Bubidcus coromandus) constantly sat dozing out
the heat of the day. In the early mornings they had busied
themselves in gathering the leeches and insects from the
backs of the buffaloes, by whom their kind offices seemed
highly appreciated. On the higli solitary trees perched
clumsy, bald-headed adjutants {Lsptoptilus), whose thin long
legs always suggested the idea that they had escaped from
some taxidermist's hands when he had just got the length of
running the wires up their shanks. In the marshes snipe
abounded in great plenty; grey djoo-jooats {Tringoides) on
the sandy beaches, and shy water-hens {Hijpot.'vnidia striata)
among the tall flags. The lake teemed with fish of many kinds,
the best being the semah (Leobarhus) which, when full-grown,
is as large as the largest salmon, and the katjubang {Botia
macranthus), a small but most boautiful scarlet- and black-
banded fish.

A few interesting captures of insects, many of them quite
new species, were made here by the margins of the lake ;
especially may be mentioned Xeropteryx simplicior, previously
known only from Borneo, and Hdm-odes ansonialis, described
before from the far-distant Duke of York Island, east of Xew
Guinea; and two splendid new species of Papilio, P. itamputi
of jMr. l>ntler, and P.forjesio^ Smith, allied to P. alciaiiadts.

The viHage of Bauding Agong, whither I moved for a short
time as the guest of ]\Ir. Hisgen, the Controller of the district,
was a delightful spot, situated at the south-east angle on a
high but sheltered spot, connnanding one of the finest views of
the lake that can be had, exactly fronting the volcano and the

178 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

peaks of the Tapa Skandri, or Footstep of (no less a hero than)
Alexander the Great, whom the chiefs of these regions claim,
singularly enough, as their illustrious stem-father. The
industry of the lake borders, for \vhi(di it is famed through-
out the Archipelago, is its tobacco culture, which is grown on
a loose porous earth composed of the detritus of pumicestone
mixed with humus. The finest quality is made from none
but the very topmost leaves of the plant, and commands a
very high price.

From the lake, on my next stage towards the Dempo, the
road descended through the same picturesque country (in
former ages probably the bottom of a Eanau lake greater than
now) all the way to Muara-dua. This town, " at the mouth ot
two rivers " as its name signifies, is situated at the union
of the Sako with the broad Komering river, and is the
seat of a large trade by river with Palembang in cotton,
tobacco, rice, timber, and " birds' nests " — the edible swifts'
nests — gathered from dark calcareous grottoes in the neigh-
bourhood. The town, though distant 200 miles in a direct
line from the sea, is only 400 feet above its level, and stands
really on the edge of the great alluvial plain which lies aloug
the entire eastern shores of Sumatra, formed by the detritus
washed down from the Earisan range into a sea whose coast-
line, retreating by a slight elevation of the land, left dry this
broad plain, which rises nowhere throughout its vast extent
more than 000 feet above the level of the sea. Before its
upheaval, South Sumatra could not have been more than 100
miles broad. Several great river systems, running in a general
west to-east direction fan-shape in form, traverse it, and are
laying down along the margin of the land a further deposit,
the slight elevation of which, for some thirty feet only
between Palembang and the Island of Banka, would raise the
shallow sea into dry land. Near the town of Muara-dua I was
surprised to net a European moth {Fhragmatiecia arundinis).

My further course northward traversed the sources of the
great arms of the southern of these systems.

Sending my baggage on to Pengandonan by the level road
on the low lands, I proceeded on foot thither over the Kisam
Hills. Just above Muara-dua the Slabung river was crossed by
a very high suspension-bridge of a most picturesque construe-

IN SUMATRA. 179

tion. In the form of a segment of a great circle, its floor was
of cylindrical logs securely tied to three gigantic rattan cables
the true supports of the bridge, fixed to the shore pillars;
over these logs was a close bamboo basket-worlc pleasant to
the nude foot of the pedestrian, railed on both sides, and pro-
tected overhead by a close thatched roof — the whole forming-
a long hanging cage, which swayed freely as it was traversed.
From this bridge I again ascended abruptly on to what was
once in all probability the bed of the Eanau lake before its
dimensions were interfered with by upheavals. The rivers I
passed had cut deep rocky gorges, down which it required
some care to pick one's steps, through the strata of 150 to
200 feet in depth, showing the pumicestone tuff superin-
cumbent on Tertiarv rocks of Eocene aw containino; fossil
Cypriea, Teredina, and Pecten shells. The whole country was
undulating, and full of alang-alang grass, and low second-
growth forest which presented in itself little of interest, and
prevented any view of the surrounding country.

The houses of the Kisam people were of a pattern of their
own. They were mostly of bamboo wickerwork fitted into a
framework of wood, and slated with little boards of cedrilla
wood. Each house had built out from it a chamber on the
same level with it under a slightly lower roof, which was used
as a lounging place for the owner and a sleej)ing room for
visitors. The door was reached — as the houses stood on tall
piles — by a slanting tree-trunk, in which a series of notches
only large enough to admit the toes served as steps, and up
which a booted traveller found it no easy matter to ascend.
The space below tlie house was blocked with chopped-up wood,
whose primary use was, doubtless, as a protection against the
entrance of thieves or attack from below by enemies, as it is
apparent how easy it would be to thrust a spear or other
instrument through the bamboo floor into the bodies of the
sleepers resting on it. The beneath of a man's liouse is con-
sidered almost as sacred as its interior, and their laws attached
supreme penalties to the crime of being found at night there.
The liouse framework in most of the villages was elaborately
carved in intricate patterns executed with the most patient
care. In Padjar-bulan, a very old village which I passed
through, the decorative carving far exceeded in profusion aud

180

A NATURALIST'S V/ANDERINGS

excellence that in any of the others, especially in its Balai,
where I was greatly interested in finding what I may call a
veritable coat of arms, carved ont of an immense block of wood
and erected in the central position, where one would expect
an object with the significance of a coat of arms to be placed.
From what I could learn it had such a significance in the
estimation of the chief of the village ; for he told me that
only such villages as could claim origin from some distant
village could erect such a carving in their Balai. I am not,
however, master enough of the terms of blazonry current in
the College of Arms to describe it in fitting language. The
shield had double supporters ; on each side a tiger rampant

COAT OF ARMS IN THE VILLAGE OF PADJAn-BULAN.

bearing on its back a snake defiant, upheld the shield, in whose
centre the most prominent quartering was a floral ornament,
which might be a sunflower shading two deer, one on each side —
the dexter greater than the sinister. Above the floral ornament
was a central and to me unintelligible halfmoon-like blazon-
ing, but on either side of it was an " ulai lidai " (Chorus of
bystanders : " Undoubtedly an ulai lidai "), but of what it was
the similitude among created things, beyond suggesting faintly
the lineaments of a scorpion, I was not pursuivant enough to
recognise ; on the sinister of the two, however, was a man
" tandacking " (dancing). Below the tips of the conjoined tails
of the supporting tigers were two ornate triangles, the upper

IN SUMATRA. 181

balanced on the apex of the lower, which might with truth
be described as the supporter of the whole, but whether these
bear any reference to the mystic signs recognised by the
Worshipful Lodges is a question that I must leave for the
Chief 3[ason to settle as best he can with the Chief Herald. I
feel inclined, however, to assert that it was as good an escut-
cheon, and as well and honourably emblazoned, as any that ever
emanated from the College ; and who dare say that it is less
ancient ? The sight of that emblazoned board and its carved
surroundings, hid away in a small little-known hamlet in the
Kisam hills among a half-savage and pagan people, astonished
me not a little, and added respect to my farewell salutation to
its chief.

The Kisam people write in a character called, from its being
inscribed on bamboos with a pointed knife, rentjorig, differing
only slightly from that used in the Lampongs, which nearly
all of them — women included — can read and write. Durinir
my journey I was able to obtain several interesting bamboos
inscribed with their songs. These pantuns are metrical com-
positions consisting of lines of eight to ten feet in length,
sometimes rhyming and sometimes not ; but they are curious
in that after every few lines one or two others which have
absolutely no meaning in themselves, or connection with the
composition, are interpolated ; some euphonious word being
caught up and added to others more or less alliterating with
it, to make a good jingle of sounds.

The dress of the women is remarkable for its shortness and
scantiness. As a rule their single garment is made by them-
selves in the pattern peculiar to their district, from their own
home-jrrown cotton or silk. But the cultivation of the silk-
worm is now almost abandoned, since unrestricted intercourse
with Palombanf»:, and throuji^h it with the outside world, brinjrs
the ])roducts of foreign looms to their out-of-the-way doors
with less trouble than they can make them for themselves.
Thus are the waves of civilisation sweeping away the indi-
genous industrial arts of the people, and Hooding out their
manufactures, turning the hereditary craftspeople to other
occupations.

The people are pagan, believing in the influence of the
spirits of their dead forefathers. Near the village of Gunung

182 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

Megaiig I came on their burial-ground, laid out in the forest
by the pathside — a great elevated quadrangular mound, in
length just enough to admit a full-grown body. A rough
stone at head and foot indicated where each person lay side
by side with his neighbour. Only the married people are
interred in this common burying-place, in the right, perhaps,
of their being parents of the people ; all others, youths
and infants — useless off-shoots of their race — are buried any-
where in the forest, and. always some distance from where
their elders lie. An unmarried woman about to give birth to
a child is compelled to leave the village and retreat to the
forest, whence after some forty days of solitary sojourn she
returns — never with her offspring — and the village is purified
by the sacrifice of a buffalo. Their most sacred oath is sworn
by placing a hand over the grave of their forefathers amid
the incense of benzoin, or in a circle drawn on the ground :
" May the spirit of my forefathers afflict me if I have spoken
falsely," being the formula. The same manner of swearing
obtains, I am told, among the inhabitants of the Makakau,
Komering (Muara-dua), iSemindo, and Blalau (Hoodjoong)
regions. The Kisam people swear also by drinking the
water in which a kriss has been dipped, as well as by the
spirit of Tuan Raja Gnavvo, who has his dwelling-place on
Mount Dempo.

IN SUMATRA. 183

CHAPTER Y.

SOJOURK IN THE TALEMBANG RESIDENCY {continued).

From Gunung Mcgang — -Luntar — A surprise — River Ogan — Curious hills
— Oinamcntal carving — A village fair — A cock-fight — Into the Inini
Valley — Miiara Inim — Lahat — Passnmah lands — Ceremonial formulas —
The ))eople- — -Marriage ceremonies — -Illegitimate births — Keligion — Death
superstitions antl rites — Sculptured stones — Interesting visit from Beu-
coolen men.

Taking my departure from Gunung- IMegang, and crossing the
watershed into the Ogan valley at 2000-3U00 feet above sea-
level, I descended towards Pengandonan. Passing through
the village of Luntar, I found the chiefs of the mar^-a and a
great concourse of people from all the region assembled on the
third anniversary of the death of the Headman's father, to
secure the welfare of his soul by feasts and sports. Here was
waiting for me the Pangeran of Pengandonan, which was the
adjacent marga. After a liberal refreshment of tea, with
the ubiquitous Huntley and Palmers' biscuits, and a Palem-
bang baked comfit, made principally of sago and the hashed-up
flesh of a fish (whose large scales, dyed of various colours,
are extensively used — and admirably adapted for the purpose
they are — to cover or " tile " over the large leaf hats used in
the district), and some ripe juicy oranges, I set out with my
host for Pengandonan lower down on the opposite side of the
Ogan. We crossed the river on a raft at a very beautiful si)ot
at the confluence of the Laham and the Ogan. On our left
were several curiously formed, abrupt hills ; facing us was tlie
bare-topped, calcareous peak of the liiang rising sheer Irom the
bank, and just above the ferry was moored a flotilla of rakits —
those picturesque floating houses by which the produce of the
region is transported to the coast, which to the trader are ship and
comfortabh' house for many days together on these great rivers.

184 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

A short intercourse with the Pangeran served to show that
he was a native far superior in intelligence and ability to
most of the chiefs about him. Though dressed no better
than the ordinary native, and preferring his sandals — whose
possession is always a mark of superiority — carried behind him
to wearing them, he had even more than usual of the easy
dignified politeness and gentlemanly bearing of the higher
Malays. Yet when, a few yards from the river bank, below a
shade of trees, we suddenly came on a neat carriage evidently
waiting for some one, so little was I prepared for his reply to
my surprised query, " Whose is the carriage ? " that it almost
' took away my breath ' when he quietly but not a\ ithout a
little pride, said, " It is mine." The carriage was drawn by a
pair of well-kept black ponies, furnished with every European
appurtenance. It certainly was incongruous, one felt, this
spanking pair, with bright silver harness, whirling through
villages of poor-looking cottages without one refined taste to
match this specimen of high civilisation in their midst. Every
village we passed through poured out its inhabitants to see the
bright equipage, which, though housed quite near, was evidently
a by no means common apparition. The women stared with
open mouth, and the children, in all the clothing nature had
given them, raced us for a long way, shouting with all their
might. It was evident tliat the Pangeran, satisfied with the
honour of having purchased such a possession, was not much
given to indulging himself in the use of it, if one may judge
by the undaunted way, utterly regardless of dynamical
principles, in which he took the most rectangular pieces of a
road never made for a carriage. Perhaps I may misjudge
him, and he may have so accurately known these principles as
to be able to drive within an inch or so of the centre of gravity
without dislodging it. He never eased up to a corner ; even
a double right-angled " hook " was described with wonderful
precision, if not with the utmost comfort. Holes or no holes,
logs or no logs in the way, he never drew rein till we halted
for good at the door of the Pasanggrahan, a rest-house which
he himself had erected on the right bank of the river for the
benefit of officials visiting the district.

From the verandah of the house the scene, which could be
leisurely watched as I comfortably rested, was one of great

IN SUM ATE A. 185

interest. Across the river the village of Pengandonan glinted
through the palms ; the villagers were constantly going to or
returning with loads of fruit and vegetables from the fields in
little boats, or poling up and down or across the river on
narrow rafts of five or six short bamboos lashed together;
there was a constant stream of \\omen and children either to
bathe or to A\ash rice or to fill with water the basketful ot
bamboos slung behind them. As every one wore more or less
brightly-coloured garments and cylindrical hats painted with
drajron's-blood red, the scene had no lack of colour or life to
make it a pleasing one. When the rain-torrents brought the
river down in Hood, as it did about once a day, the scene \\as
still more lively. The whole population, men, women, and
children, swarming out like a disturbed ants' nest, with
creels, hampers, baskets and nets, dashed in up to the very
eyes, where the force of the stream was broken a little, to
scrape the bottoms and sides of the river for the fish (which
have taken refuge there out of the current), allowing them-
selves the while to be floated down the stream for some dis-
tance ; then, running up stream again, shouting and laughing,
they dashed in for another and another bout. These floods
sometimes quite cut me off from communication with the
opposite side ; and as my cooking was all performed in the
villajje, I was constrained sometimes to c:o dinnerless to bed.
AVhen a few hours' rain is sufficient to flood the river so as to
bring down fruits, branches, large trees and (as I saw on one
occasion) a broad slice of ground with the bamboos growing
on it, one who has not seen it can but faintly imagine the
volume and ])owor of such a river after the incessant rain of
several days.

A curious feature of this place was the abrupt hills of
which I have spoken. Composed of calcareous crystalline
rocks, probably of Eocene ago, they appear to have been in
ancient times the boundaries of the ocean in which was laid
down what is now the plain of Eastern Sumatra. The IVak
of the Kiang, the most abrupt of them all, is the highest land
between itself and the coast, distant in ii direct lino one \\\\\\-
d red and twenty miles, and commands a magnificent })anorama
of a long stretch of the Ogan valley, running l)et\veen deep
barriers, the sun-Hash on whose surface guided the eye all

186

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

along its winding course till it disappeared through a narrow
rocky gateway into the blue sea-like plain of J-*alembang.
Below, fields of young corn, dotted with small watch-huts
which were so utterly embowered in Convolvulacem that they
seemed to be simply immense bunches of yellow and purple
flowers, covered the rich flats all along both banks, and
might themselves have marked out the course of the river by

TATA BVIiUK-TALAM.

their luxuriant verdure. The Pangeran owned rice-fields,
partly inherited, partly purchased, which he informed me
were worth £20,000. He reckoned, however, that his income,
from cotton and coffee and other fruits, but principally from
buftaioes, was greater than from his rice-fields.

The houses of the Ogan people were all richly carved, and
the ornamentation is said to be peculiar to their own valley.

TATA SIMBAR AJTD TATA AAVAN.

The Semindo men (a district lying about a day's journey
to the west) are credited with the invention of the designs ;
but the Palein bangers, who are famous workers in wood, are
generally the builders, and accommodate each district with
the style of " tata" or ornamentation peculiar to itself, which
it has retained for generations. The accompanying sketches
will illustrate the designs most in vogue. On the lowermost

IN SUMATRA.

187

beam, or Tailan-luan, that resting on the pillars, we have the
carving represented on page 186, and called tata huhur-talam ;
the second tigure represents the carving on the Paliatan, oi
the lower beam of the framework of the house ; where the
tata simhar commences the designs, followed by the tata
aican, which either continues the
whole length of the beam alter-
nately revei-sed till it is closed
again by a second tata simb2r, or
both are used throughout alter-
nately erect and reversed. The
interior of the raised portion is
either left uncarved or is adorned
with the foliag3 and flowers, of
Avhich the outlines appear in the
design. This is the Ogan pattern
par exceUence. On the door-posts
I found in some houses tata ramo^

ramo (ramo means, wild beast) which is not true Ogan, but
adopted from the Semindo people, and it is extremelv interest-
ing to observe how effective an ornament has resulted from
the representation of a tiger or some such animal, in which the

TATA. KAMORAMO.

eCUINDO CARVING — TATA OTAR GAMOOIA'NG — OX A TIOISE
IN PEXGANDONAN.

eye has become a floral ornament, and the legs and tail have
developed into scrolls.

On the last day of my stay here I spent a forenoon with my
host in seeing the sports still going on at the neighbouring
village of Luntar, which were preliminary, to a feast which
was to close the some twenty days' festivities— a sort of
high pagan mass for tlie rest of the soul of its Chief's father.
In the vilhige was collected a large crowd from surround-
ing margas and even from as far as Palembang, the scene

188 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

resembling a village feeing fair at home. At the outskirts
we came on small booths for the sale of eatables, fruits, and
sweetmeats ; but everywhere else each little crowd had in
its nucleus a gaming-table of some sort. First favourite was
a stall where a mat spread on the ground was marked off into
various denominations of staking, odd or even, and on any
number up to five. Its presiding genius, with a countenance
as stolid as the most approved banker at a roulette table,
squatted on the ground with a saucer before him, on which
he twirled the fatal teetotum, and with a most professional
air covered it up with half a cocoa-nut shell so that it
might run fair. When the " gentlemen " had all done staking,
he lifted the lid with a flourish, declared the fates, paid
his losses, and gathered in his little pile of gains, without
moving a muscle of his face. He was a Palem anger, this
sedate banker, with a sharp eye and a cruel expression of
countenance, and, having learned wisdom, doubtless, among
the comers and goers of that great commercial centre, he had
come up the water to operate on the simple natives here. His
stall was constantly surrounded by an eager crowd of patrons,
ranirino: in a2:e from eight vears to fortv iiarvests, who staked
with untiring zeal various sums, from the two-fifths part of a
penny up to two or three shillings. Games of chance of a
like nature were going on in all directions ; but I moved on to
witness the heroic sport — the noble and national game of the
country — Nyabung, or cock-fighting.

The cock-pit, or Galanggan, was a large enclosure some
twenty feet square, railed in by stakes twelve to fourteen feet
high, sufficiently far apart to enable those outside to see all
that went on within. The cocks about to fight were handed
over to the care of two officials, whose office is to direct affairs
in the ring. By them were attached with scrupulous care long
double-edged steel spurs, sharp as lances. As soon as the
sound of the bedoog announced that this arena was to be
occupied again, all other sports were instantly deserted, and the
crowd pressed round the Galanggan. The cocks were brought
into the ring by the proper officials, each holding his bird
carefully with its leg armatures sheathed. Into this enclosure
no one but the officials, the owners, and some favourite few
were admitted. The two cocks were then held up before each

IN SUMATRA. 189

other by the guhings, who ruffled for them their neck fea-
thers, tugged their combs, patted them on the breast and sides,
and shook them with a tremulous sort of instigating motion,
performed with a knack and neatness which indicated the pro-
fessional hand. This manoeuvre whose execution is the envy
of onlookers, is imitated by the children in the miniature
cockerel fights that they get up before they are old enough to
speak. When the fowls had been thus irritated they were
allowed, while still in the hand, to have one dig at each other
just to put them on their mettle, and with their terrible
armatures bared, they were set facing each other, a few feet
apart ; and then came the charge. I shall never forget — for I
was utterly unprepared for it from the stolid Malay — the yell
and deafening shout of savage delight and excitement that
arose from the up to that moment mute and eager but, to all
appearance, unexcited crowd as the combatants rushed at each
other, and which was kept up all the time the conflict lasted ;
nor how the gulangs, following on hands and knees, each close
behind his fowl, watched each movement in silence with a
glaring and excited eye — the rules of the ring prohibiting them
from touching or reinstigating the cock during the continu-
ance of a round — like nothing 1 can think of so much as the
intense motions of a pointer close behind a warm scent, and
at every onset they scanned their bird from side to side to see
if it had sustained any injury. In the first combat that I
witnessed both cocks were badly wounded in the first round ;
one even fainted away. The seconds and supporters carried
each their bird aside to apply restoratives, if possibly they
might be al)le to continue the contest to a final issue. They
bathed its head with cold water and administered some with a
feather down its throat ; a cloth was held over it to keep oif the
sun, and smoking pieces of wood held under its nostrils and
over its comb. For a time it seemed as if the worst wounded
would have to be declared vanquished, as it was unable to
enter the lists, but his spirit came again on instigating him
with a strange cock for a few minutes. After the same
preliminary patting and facing and the solitary dig, they
were again allowed to rush at each other; but after a few
skirmishes the badly wounded bird turned tail and was
declared the loser. In the second of tlieonly two fights I ever

190 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

witnessed the combat was very short, but very fierce. Both
birds were sorely wounded at the commencement, but in a
short space one rolled over mortally wounded, with a gash in
its side through which the four fingers could be passed. After
both fights there was immediately heard the clinking of
money, and a general rush to the Balai was made to settle
their bets. Often £3 J to £10 may be laid on a cock; and
in a day's gaming as much as £250 has been known to
change hands.

Cock-fighting is now strictly prohibited by the Govern-
ment, which, only on special occasions, gives for a limited
number of days permission to the chief of a marga to hold a
tournament within his district, and for whose good conduct
he is responsible. He is allowed to charge five per cent, on all
transactions which take place, and a fee from all stall-holders
as a sort of recompense for directing the affair and keeping
order. With this percentage the Pangeran is able to provide
a buffalo at little cost to himself, which is slain on the last day
of this Vanity Fair, and followed by a general gormandising.
From the nature of this whole entertainment one may hope
that the dead Pangeran advance a full stage in bliss.

The heavy rains that had delayed me several days here
having cleared somewhat, I proceeded on my way northwards ;
and, crossing the watershed of the Ogan, descended into
the valley of the Inim, a large tributary of the Lamatang,
another of the great branches of the Palembang river. The
village customs in each of these great valley systems differ
but slightly from each other ; yet each has some distinctive
characteristic ; each has its own style of architecture ; and
each its own pattern of garments and hat-ornamentation. In
religion the Inim people are Mahomedans. They bury their
dead, however, in one large mound with the head east-
wards ; the women lie alongside their husbands, but the chil-
dren are buried anywhere their parents may wish, only never
in the village mound.

It was interesting to note how the navigability of the
rivers influence the people even far inland. In these reaches
I found Islamism of a purer form, and the people more
learned in civilised ways ; while in the upland regions not
geographically distant, such as Ivisam, ]\rakakau, Semindo

IN SUMATRA. 191

and the Blalau districts, which I had just traversed — high
plateaus with which communication is difficult — the people
still followed the pagan superstitions of past ages, and con-
tinued the customs and rites of their great-great forefathers
with little change.

Passino; throuo-h the villajxe of Darma, where I noted with
curiosity the skulls of divers species of animals nailed to the
gable end of a house, which pertained, I was informed, to its
Pangeran's Tul-ang-hinaiang, or gamekeeper — a fact I might
have guessed without asking (had I imagined that Pangerans
had among their retinue such an official), since I was myself
an inhabitant of a land where his professional brother hangs
out as marks of his prowess a signboard just as barbarously
garnished with the bodies of owls and hawks, weasels and
inoffensive little squirrels, and every rare feathered bird that
visits his neighbourhood.

I halted for the night at Muara Inim, a large village at
the confluence of the Inim with the Lamatang and one of the
important centres of commerce and civilisation in the Resi-
dency. Once a week a small steamer comes here — 120 miles
from the coast — ^bringing mails and passengers and all the
merchandise for the north-western Highlands of Palembang.
It is the starting-point of the main cross-country road to
Bencoolen and Padang, which after crossing the Inim ascends
the western bank of the Lamatano^ throus^h a rather monoto-
nous strip of country, which I beguiled by examining the coal
bands (of Pliocene age) that crop out at various points in the
clayey marls on the roadside. Suddenly turning the corner
near the village of Merapi, the traveller comes face to face
with one of the most singular and pi(;turesque mountains of
(Sumatra — the Cerillo Peak — which, though high, is, owing
to the configuration of the country, not seen till one is close
at its base.

The Cerillo is a tall conical numntain on a somewhat nar-
row base, rising irregularly till about 800 or 1000 feet from its
summit, when it suddenly contracts into an inaccessible acute
spire, like a gigantic finger pointing heavenward. I was not
surprised to be told that among an ignorant people its singular
shape had invested it with superstitious dread. The natives
make long pilgrimages to it to speak with the Dewa that they

192 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

believe resides there, ascending to the highest accessible spot,
where incense is oifered and other ceremonies performed.

A little farther on, as I neared the village of Lahat, the summit
of the volcano of the Dempo whither I was bound, raised its
head in the distance. After resting for a couple of days in the
town, enjoying the hospitality of Mr. A"an Houlen, the Kesident
of the district, I pressed on north-westward. After a journey
of a few hours up the Lamatang valley I entered, on climbing
out of the gorge on to its high bank, a landscape with en-
tirely new features. I looked out on what appeared to be an
immense white sandy plain, which in reality was the plateau
of the Passumah Lands, covered with grass, but with scarcely a
trace of a tree anywhere — one of the singular features of this
region, and one by no means common in the tropics. It is said
that fur at least 300 years there has been no forest here ; but
that previously, however, there were trees which had been
destroyed by a great fire. That a conflagration should have
burned up such an immense tract, leaving no clumps or unin-
jured seeds of any kind in the soil to start a second crop of
arboreal vegetation, seems very doubtful. In Ceylon however,
in the midst of great forest regions, there occur tracts, marked
off with singular sharpness from the surrounding forest, in
which no trees are to be found. Perhaps the bareness of this
plateau may be the result of some such train of circumstances,
or perhaps it may owe its peculiarity to the effect of eruptions
of the overshadowing volcano, towards which the plateau slopes
gently upwards.

At noon I reached the first of those singular gorges which
are another characteristic feature of the plateau. Its sides
descended precipitously to the bed of a small river which was
running in a narrow channel cut through the solid rock, on
which the marks of the former levels of its water were plainly
graved, and descended under a narrow bridge that spanned it
in a series of pretty cascades. A few miles farther, on taking
a sharp turn of the road, I suddenly found myself on the brink
of a precipice over whose edges I could dizzily see, more than
500 feet sheer below me, the foaming Endicat river spanned
by a picturesque roofed bridge. Till close on the edge of the
precipice it was impossible for the eye to detect the slightest
sign of a gorge ; it roamed over what seemed a nearly level

IN SUMATRA. 193

country. The descent and ascent were made by long difficult
corkscrew paths cut in the face of cliffs, that were densely
clothed with trees which from the steepness of the slope
clung close to its sides. On again gaining the level of the
plateau, and looking back from a little distance, the eye
ranged over the chasm without perceiving any trace of it.
This scenery recalled the descriptions I had read of the
singular canons of the Yellowstone River in North America.
At frequent intervals over all the plateau I passed tabats or
lakelets of various sizes, the result j)robably of slight subsi-
dences of the ground which, curiously enougli, are full of fish,
though they have often no river running out of them. The
same afternoon I reached Bandar, and the next day held on to
the village of Pagar Alam.

From Pagar Alam to my destination at the little village of
Pau, lying 3500 feet above the sea level on the slope of the
Dempo, where it begins to raise its majestic mass more erectly,
was but a forenoon's march. The village of Pau was very
small, and its Balai of minute dimensions. Without an hour's
delay, however, I set about enlarging and rendering it habit-
able. By the combined efforts of the greater portion of the
inhabitants of two villages which lay within a few minutes'
walk, we floored the place, railed off a part for a sleeping
apartment and fitted a bed into it, furnished the outer portion
with a table and a door, which we made out of that blessedest
of all the vegetable productions of a toolless and saw-mill-less
land, the bamboo ; and before night I had unpacked all my
baggage, books, and apparatus, and settled into my neat abode
with feelings of the utmost satisfaction and contentment after
my thirty-five days' march. The village lay on the road
leading to Bencoolen, and as once a week a large market was
held near Pagar Alam, I had an opportunity of seeing not a
few of the people of the districts towards the sea-coast, as
they came often to the markets in the way of trade, and
often passed a night in the village. As a sort of good-
will exhibition towards the villagers, and a return for their
hospitality they would often give a musical performance, or
engage in a dance. One of the latter interested me much.
The dance itself was very much like the Lampong dances,
calm and attitudinal, but with the addition of lighted tapers.

194 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

fixed in small saucers held in the hands. The seriousness,
however, of the performance was enlivened by the introduction
of a comical element. Closely imitating in an exaggerated
manner all the motions of the dancer, but affecting to keep
in his rear and out of sight, was another dancer simulating the
fool, who was quite ignored as if entirely un perceived by the
principal performer, but at whose remarks, gestures, and
grimaces, all the people laughed heartily. Here we had the
simple elements of the theatrical performance — an embryo
play with two performers.

When one asks a Passumah man whence his forefathers
came in the Ttmpo-dalu, in the days of yore, the reply is
often either from Dewa, or from the sun, or from Alexander
the Great (Sekander Alam) ; but to most of them the matter
is .shrouded in mystery. Hearinir, however, of a chief of
a distant village specially learned in these matters, I sent
for him to come to visit me. He was the son of a very high
chief in their independent days, and as such, the history of
the Passumah Lands had been instilled into him from a boy,
as part of the education that belonged to his rank. I found
him wonderfully versed in all the old ways and customs of
the Passumah people, and my only regret is that I had not
then the knowledge on which to found many questions which
I should now like to know replies to. I wrote down from his
lips many of their strange ceremonial formulas, which are
difficult to find nowadays save inscribed on some old bamboo
or lontar-leaf, which may have happily survived the ravages of
the boring beetle and the frequent village fires. Not the
least curious was his account of the creation : How different
sorts of birds, with curious but not meaningless names, pro-
duced eggs from which in the fulness of time escaped the
solid earth and the sky, the moon, the stars and the sun ; then
the grass plains and the forests, the sandy shore and the coral ;
how the sky wept and there came the rains and the deep sea ;
how then the Dewas were, and the hierarchy of good gods and
the company of evil spirits ; how the Dewas reproduced and
marriage was ; Adam married w ith Uwo (Eve ?), the earth
married with the sky, and the mist with the clouds and Allah
gave conception to all things.

The Passumah people are a tall strong race, with well and

IN SUMATRA.

19i

intelligently moulded faces ; the nose with a rather prominent
and straight dorsum, the eyes sunk deeply in the head, the
cheek-bones projecting, but without the prominent thick lips
so distinctive of the Malay face. They are very independent,
somewhat surly in heart and desperately lazy people ; not
very friendly inclined to their neighbours in the adjoining
districts. They are by no means dishonest, and live peace-
fully among themselves. Their children are lively and
amused with little ; but neither of their parents trouble them-
selves much about them after they are old enough to run
about by themselves. They were rather afraid to allow me to
submit their length and breadth to the test of the measur-
ing-line, dreading lest the measure of their bodies should

FASSUJIAH BRACELETS OP SILVER, SHOWING THE ORNAMENTATION DEKIVED
FKOM THE YOUJiG SHOOTS OF THE BAMBOO.

bear some sinister relation to the span of their existence.
After giving, however, the most pacifying assurances, I found
ten men and five women bold enougch to risk the danger.
The average height of the men was 5 feet 4"] 5 inches, the
length of his arm 11-23 inches, and of his forearm to the tip
of his longest finger 2 feet 5'1 inches, while in the women the
corresponding measurements were, 5 feet 0 75 inches in stature,
11*35 inches in length of arm, and 2 feet 3-85 inches of
fore.irm. The tallest man was 5 feet 8-25 inches, and the most
herculean of the women 5 feet 2*75 inches.

The men dress as in other districts. The women, especially
the maidens, are strong, well proportioned and well developed ;
many of them are very good-looking, having, what is rare among

196 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the Malay races, characteristically marked red cheeks. They
wear usually only one garment, a loin-cloth fastened below the
breasts and reaching to the middle of the thigh. Their arms are
decked from the wrist to the elbow with tiers of silver bracelets,
and the lower joint of every finger with as many rings as it
can hold, but they did not exhibit any delicate ideas about
spoiling their lustre, and, notwithstanding the incongruity
of the combination, I have often seen them grubbing up roots
with their jewelled fingers, and filling baskets with earth to
the clang of their bracelets.

Marriage between members of the same village or village
cluster is prohibited among the Passu mah people ; in some
districts even those of the same marga are within the bonds of
consanguinity recognised by them. The two forms already
described at page 151 as practised in the Lampongs I found
existing here also : the one by simple purchase ; the other
(ambil-anak) by which the father of the bride adopts his son-
in-law into his family, more as a slave, however, than as a
son.* The position of the man married by the latter arrange-
ment recalls in his utter subserviency to the woman — her
property never passing to him as long as the marriage bond
remains, and his children always hers — the insignificant and
pitiable position of the paterfamilias among the Egyptians
under the Ptolemies, in vv'hich " the woman owned all and
ruled all ; the man was a helpless dependant. As a child he
was the property of his mother and as a married man the
pensioner of his wife." f

On the day of the marriage the youth and his bride come
before the Head of the village, who is as it were both king and
priest. After offering to the Dewa incense of benzoin, and
sprinkling over them rice yellowed with curcuma powder, ho
reads what may in truth be called their marriagie service, a
long and singular formula of great interest, called " Sawe
berduudim," which I had the good fortune to obtain a copy of
in the rentjong character inscribed on a bamboo. It is a

* This is really a remnant of the ancient Matriarchal System, in whicii
desceiir. t(jlio\V('d in the tVmale line. Consult "Over de Verwautschap en het
Huwelijkseu Perfect nij de Vol ken van d-n Indischeu Archipel," by G. A.
Wilkin, niso Midden yumatra, by P of. P. J. Veth,

t The Times: "Buaed Treasare"— Jan. 18rf2.

IN SUMATBA. 197

sort of invocation to all their pagan pantheon, among whom
one is invoked as dwelling within the Nine Mists, to bestow
their blessing on the union.

Another of their curious customs I saw performed during
my stay in the village. It happened that a young girl had
fallen clandestinely with child (an oflence of great magni-
tude among them) whose father it was incumbent on the
chief of the village to discover and report to the chief of his
marga. A court, consisting of these two officials with the
chiefs of the two neighbouring villages, was consequently
called together in the Balai in which I was staying. The
girl was summoned to appear, and, accompanied by her
mother, she took her place on a mat before the chiefs.
The head of her village, having seated himself on the ground,
prostrated himself before a little incense-holder of burning
benzoin, and chanted an invocation to various of their deities,
concluding with — " Ye Beings who regulate the universe,
make it clear whose is the fault." Then, in the midst of dead
silence, he scattered over ihe girl some handfuls of yellowed
rice-grains, and demanded the name of the partner of her
crime. She replied, giving the name of some one in a
distant village, and, being warned to speak the truth, she
declared : " Banish me if you will, hang me if you will, kill
me if you will, I can say no other — that is the truth." This
finished the inquisition. Next morning a commission consist-
ing of the chiefs who had formed the court with several armed
villagers, set out, accomj)anied by the girl, to bring her
charge against the village whose member had brought dis-
grace on theirs. If the person named by the girl should on
his oath deny the charge, the case nowadays is carried before
the magistrate of the district. In other days it was referred
to the arbitrament of war or of the Dewa, who would certainly
afflict the perjurer or his (or her) village ; but, for the purifi-
cation of the disgrac(>d Kampong, Ihe deity had to be invoked
over a sacrificed bufl'alo. The woman would secretly as her
time approached disappear from the village ; and when, after a
space, she returned she would come alone. If the person
named by the girl accepted the charge, as he did in this
case, and was willing by either of the modes of marriage
practised among them to make her his wife, both villages,

198 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

as well as the Devva, are supposed on his paying a small fine
to be satisfied.

The people of the Passumah are pagans ; but their pagan-
ism is throughout tinged in form and utterance with Maho-
medanisra, which in former times may have spread to a
slight extent among them. They have no priests. They
believe in Dewas, who inhabit the volcanoes and the deep
forests, and also in the avenging power of the spirits of their
forefathers if they transgress the old customs set by them.
In times of difficulty and perplexity they ascend to the margin
of the crater, and in the cold of that elevated spot they pass
one or more nights ; and once in every three years a company
from the villages repairs to burn incense, and sacrifice to the
Dewa some animal on the Sawah (as they name a spot just
below the present cone), which must have been the floor of
an old crater before the upheaval of the present one. They
believe in the power of forms of words, and in the posses-
sion of spells. When a youth goes away on a journey he
leaves with the object of his affections an inscribed bamboo,
which she daily reads (if she is able to do so), to secure his
fidelity to her and success in his undertaking ; she then drinks
a draught of water from it, so that the spell may amalgamate
with her own self. In the roofs of their houses they secrete
bamboos with various inscriptions to ward off sickness, and to
cure it when it enters the dwelling. The surat hantal, a
prayer inscribed on blades of bamboo, placed below the pillow,
w ill insure for a mother safe delivery ; and, when her infant will
not cease crying, the repeating of its contents will still it.
When an aged person is very sick, and cannot possibly recover,
but yet lingers long at the threshold of death, they possess
another formula, whose reading will release the dying spirit
in peace.

The place they hold in most reverence is the grave of the
NenePoyang, or stem father of the Passumah, over which their
most binding oaths are taken; to perjure themselves on it
would be equal to sealing their doom. If there be a dispute
between two people of the same or of different villages, both
retire, accompanied by their resper-tive chiefs, to this sacred spot,
where a fowl or a sheep or a buffalo, according to the gravity
of the affair, is killed, which after being cut up into small pieces,

IN SUMATRA. 199

is cooked in a great pot. Then be wlio is to take the oath
holding his hand, or a long kriss of the finest sort, over the grave-
stone and over the cooked animal, says : " If such and such be
not the case, may I be afflicted with the worst evils." The whole
of the company then partake of the food. If the man has sworn
falsely they believe that in a short time after he will be seized
with some dire sickness, and will die ; if he plants his fields
they will not grow, or will produce barren stems ; but not only
will he himself be crushed by misfortune, but, in an affair of
magnitude, all who were of his village who ate of the feast, if
not the village also, will be overtaken by disaster. The people
of Passumah Ulu Manna, which lies between the broad
Passumah and the town of Manna on the sea-coast, have the
same origin as those of the broad Passumah, and consequently
their most solemn oath must be taken over the same grave.
Now where a cause is before the magistrate, and it is necessary to
swear a witness, it costs a journey of some twenty days. There
has been brought, however, I am told, a stone from the grave of
their ancestor to the court of the magistrate, which the people
respect and swear over. One can perceive that ere long the oath
of the district may be sworn over any stone, and in time to
come it may be forgotten ivhy they swear over a stone at all.

When a man dies his body is brought into the Balai and there
laid out by the head man of the village, with various ceremo-
nial observances, accompanied by a certain form of words,
differing with, and appropriate to, each act, their ritual for
the dead. Having wound a cord about the body, he takes the
dead man's head between his hands, and rolls it gently from
side to side ; the teeth are rubbed with a piece of sapotaceous
wood ; the tongue is pulled forward and touched with it, the
nostrils and the ears also; the eyelid is raised to permit a
last look ; the arm is rotated by turning the forefinger ; each
toe and finger is flexed ; the nails are gently scraped ; the
juice of a lemon is squeezed over the body, which is finally
sprinkled with water and wrapped in white cloth. The dead
are buried without the village in a square plot — men, women,
and children side by side, or they are placed in some unre-
membered spot quite in the wilderness. " Are they not dead ?
That is the end of tlicm, and what is the good of knowing
more about them."

200

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

On inquiring where the dead go, I received the following
answer : " We Ulu men (living near the sources of the rivers)
do not follow the custom of the sea-coast people. They say
that when their people die they go to a great field, flat and
without any trees, on which the hot sun pours day and night.
There they have to remain day and night, roasting {pangang),
for a long, long time, reading day and night the Koran. After
a time Allah comes along with a great umbrella over him,
attended by a large company. Those that have learned best
he calls to walk with him in the shade of his umbrella ; those

MONOLITH AT TANGERWANGI ; PASSUMAH LANDS.

that have failed to learn all that they ought are beaten up
in a great mortar, and sent back somewhere on earth, whence
after a trial they are again transported to the baking field,
where a time is allowed to them to perfect themselves, when,
if they have made proper use of their opportunities they are
at last called under the great shade ; but if, after all these
trials, they have failed to learn, they are beaten to dust in
the mortar and blown away. We Ulu men do not know if
this is so or not, and we wonder how they know, for we have
never heard of any one who has come back to tell them. We

IN SUMATRA.

201

Ulu men do not know whither we go, but the breath that
goes out of the mouth is lost two arms' length away, and we
believe that we mix with the wind and follow it wherever it
goes; and our bodies certainly rot away."

Some of the most interesting objects in the Passumah Lands
are the sculptured figures found in so many parts of it. The
greater number of these are so broken and defaced that no
satisfactory result can come from their examination. They
have been ascribed to Hindoo origin by at least one w-riter.

MONOLITH DISINTERRED BY THE AVTIIOU AT TAXGEl.WAXGI.

Hearing that tliere existed two of these "men turned to stone "
at Tangerwangi not far from my camp, I paid them a visit.
I found them to be immense blocks of stone, in excellent
preservation, wliicli could certainly never have been seen by
the writer to whom I refer. They are carved into a likeness
of the human figure, in a posture between sitting and kneeling,
but which it is not quite easy to make out from tlie way in
wliich the stones are lying. Besides the two of whicli I hail
heard, I discovered by clearing the forest, first a third and then

202

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

a fourth, both prostrate on the ground in such a way as to in-
dicate that they probably fell from the result of earthquakes ;
or by stones ejected from the volcano at whose base they had
stood. Each figure has a groove down the back and they
had apparently stood on a flat pedestal, with their backs
towards one centre, with their faces more or less accurately
to the cardinal points of the compass. The features of all four
are of the same type of countenance ; but the race now living

\ -7/. '^ ,

SIDE VIEW OF THE FACE ON ONE OF THE MONOLITHS.

in this region did not form that model, and it is equally
beyond question that the Hindoo features are not represented.
It is not certain that the Hindoos, who, as it is well known,
settled in some parts of Sumatra at the time of their great oc-
cupation of Java about 1000 B.C. ever were in the Passumah
lands ; but if they ever were, there is no reason for suppos-
ing that they should depart from their wont in Java and else-
where, and figure in their sculptures the lineaments of another
race than their own. If these stones are not the work of

IX SUMATRA, 203

the Hindoos, they must have been carved by either the then
people of the district or by foreign sculptors. If by Passu-
mahers, did they depict their own features or those of another
race ? But who these former inhabitants of the Passumah
were, whence these foreign artificers came, and for what these
sculptures were used, is shrouded in deep mystery. It is quite
certain also that the present inhabitants could not conceive,
much less execute, such works of art.

The postures are peculiar ; the figures have the appearance
of persons bound, bearing burdens on their backs. The ringing
on the arms, which the natives call bracelets, must be taken,
I think, to represent cords, as the same marks occur also below
the shoulder, where it is not the custom of the Passumahers to
wear armlets. The eyes are immense and protruding to a great
degree, lending weight to this idea. The sex of the persons
represented is also doubtful. There is almost no tradition
respecting them, beyond that they are the handiwork of Sarung
Sakti and Lidah Pait (Bitter Tongue), who, wandering about the
country, turned all who displeased them into stone : or that they
represent the people who in the far, itir back time used to inhabit
this land, and who possessed tails, which the renowned ancestor
of the Passumah people, Atum Bungsu, cut off. Near Pagar
Alam, I saw also two stones, but quite of a different kind of ■
sculpture ; one was the representation of a woman sitting in
native fashion, with an infant on her hip in the w-ay that their
children are generally carried about. Both hands support
the breasts, which are apparently turgid. Her features might
represent a Passumah woman. The other, distant a few yards
only, is a spirited sculpture representing two children attacked
by a python. The reptile is coiled about the children, one of
whom has fallen, while its head is partly in its mouth. The
action of the smaller boy, in thrusting off the snake with
all his strength, is natural and well designed, though some-
what wanting in execution. These stones differ in character
so much from the others at Tangerwangi, and have besides so
little relation one to another, that it is impossible to conceive
for what purpose they can have been made. The only con-
clusion is that a superior race, possessing considerable know-
ledge and refined taste, and with technical skill not possessed
by the natives of any part of the island at present occupied

204 A NATURALISTS WANDERINGS

this region ; but who they were and when they dwelt here is
absolutely shrouded in oblivion.

During my stay in the Passumah lands, the news that I was
an Englishman spread far, and I was several times visited by
people from the Passumah Ulu Manna district, which about
the year 1820 was under the rule of the English, having been
annexed to the East India Company's dominions when Sir
Stamford Raffles held the Lieutenant-Governorship of Ben-
coolen. The original document, formally recognising them as
"subjects of the Honourable Company, and entitled to all the
privileges of that condition," was brought to me by the grandson
of one of the chiefs with whom the treaty was then concluded,
carefully preserved in a bamboo case. He had heard, he said, that
I was English, and he had come several days' journey to see
me, for he had heard both his grandfather and his father
tell of the greatness of the " orang Ingris." It was at least
flattering to one's national pride to find how deep a hold
their rule had taken on the gratitude of the people, when
those of the third generation had come to extol to one of their
countrymen their merciful and just government, and with
wonderful, and of course exaggerated, tales of their liberality
and of the profuseness, richness, and grandeur of the Gover-
nor's court. One old fellow came arrayed in one of his most
precious heirlooms, the English-made coat, of his grandfather,
of a purplish serge with steel-ring epaulets and with a curved
sabre bearing King George's monogram worked on the handle.
He sadly bemoaned that the present Government had not con-
tinued to him the chieftainship of his father's marga, and with
the present Passirahs it was evidently a sore matter that they
received no pay from the Government, when under the English
rule they received seventy -five rupees a month (£75 sterling a
year), a great sum to these people. I was very amused by the way
one Passirah showed me his official dress. The " Company,"
that is, the present government, for the designation still con-
tinues— "The Company gives me #/r/s " ('this' with a most
contemptuous curl of the lips), as he exhibited his own alongside
the English uniform of his companion (the costume did not
really deserve such a curl) ; " and I have to pay five rupees for
this" (a narrow gold band on the right arm), "and five rupees
for this " (its fellow on the left), " and five for this ' ((jn the

IN SUMATRA. 205

neck). " The Ingris gave a costume like that, with a sword
and seventy-five rupees a month besides ! " They were always
anxious to learn from me when the English were coming back
again. I dare say that if the English were back, they would
possibly sigh for the return of the Dutch, their sup23osed grie-
vances against the dominion for the time present doubtless
being always sorest. It is not all lip praise, however ; there
exists throughout the country a real belief in the absolute
justice in word and deed of the English people and of the
surpassing greatness of their nation. All the documents which
they showed me that were given by Raffles to their fathers had
invariably lost their wax seals, and, on asking what had become
of them, the unfailing reply was : — '* We have eaten them."
Each document they believed was the token of rights and
privileges whicii could never be revoked, but which would one
day, though at present in abeyance, come again to them ; and
as the seal in their estimation is the most effectual and the
potentest part of a Deed, they had eaten it ; and somehow,
should the writing itself get lost, the seal at any rate had
become part of themselves and its potency would descend to
their heirs.
15

206 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER VI.

SOJOURN IN THE TOLEMBANG EESIDENCY — Continued.

PassiUTiah Lands (contd.) — The Volcano of the Dempo — Its flora an 1 fauna —
The crater — Spectre of the Broeken — The view from the summit — ^Leavo
for the Kaba Volcano — Gunung Meraksa- — River journey on a raft —
Lampar — Fmd again the spider Ornitlwscato'ides decipiens- — Batu-
pantjeh — A marriage scene — Games of the boys — ^Houses — Tcbbing-
Tinggi — Tandjong-ning — Great trees — My party attacked by a tiger —
Its wilincss — Its capture — Graveyard.

The chief object of interest in the Passumah Lands is its
volcano — the Dempo. Almost daily I explored some part of
its vast extent, and when I left I could have profitably spent
months more without exhausting its treasures. The village of
Pau, in which I had my quarters, was 3500 feet above the sea.
The first few hundred feet of the flanks of the mountain were
appropriated by the villagers for their coffee gardens, and the
few fields in which they now cultivate rice and roots. The
coffee-trees, despite their being densely crowded, yielded large
crops of a very superior kind of fruit ; above these cultivated
fields ran a broad belt of low forest consisting of a shrubbery of
Fluggea microcarpa and the usual broad-leaved scitamineous
plants, in whose damp shade balsams and white-flowered Ges-
neracese and hairy-leaved Begonias flourished. About 4000 feet
began the virgin forest, which for 2000 feet upwards displayed
unrivalled luxuriance, under which grew a tangled mass of
shrubs and thorny climbers. Crashing through these, I one
day nearly trampled on a fine new species of that curious
family, the Raflesiacese ; it smelt powerfully of putrid flesh,
and was infested with a crowd of flies, which followed me all
the way as I carried it home, and was besides overrun with
ants, notwithstanding the long hairs which protected its centre.
In the deep shade at this elevation few flowers except from
the climbers and epiphytes on the trees, such as many species
of Melastoma oftener more rich in colour of fruit than of flower,

IN SUMATRA. 207

scarlet Mschynanthes, and occasionally a gorgeous asclepiad.
The varied forms and colours of the foliage, however, greatly
relieved the general want of flowers. From the broad leaves
of the Ginger family and the tangled thickets of palms, to
the graceful fronds oi Ahopliila, Cya^Aea and creeping DavalUa,
to the pandans and aroids which embrace the tree trunks and
clothe the leafless coils of the lianes, there is a perpetual and
refreshing variety. Here I found a curious sjiecies of Ficus,
whose long stem-branches penetrated underground, where the
figs were produced with their orifices only above the surface.

Nothing could be finer than many of the crowns of flowers
of the giant trees that I was constantly felling. One of these,
a species of Styrax (S. subpaniculatum), was a mass of blossom
which scented the region of the mountain for days after I felled
it, and often beguiled me aside to admire even its fading beauty.

At 4800 feet I gathered the first ericaceous plants, as
climbing shrubs on the tops of the highest trees ; and some 500
feet higher the ground v/as strewed wdth great blossoms four
to fiv'e inches in diameter, from the Gordonia exeelsa, a giant of
the TernstrcBinaceee, or Tea family. At GOOO feet the region of
troublesome and irritating rattans and of Pijcliosperma palms
was passed, and I entered a forest of more slender trees,
witli still many grand fern-loaded specimens among them,
especially belonging to the Myrtle family as their fallen
corollas indicated. At 7000 feet, near the half-way camp
I had erected, a patch of tall Pandan trees occurred on the
sides of a gorge, but nowhere else on the mountain. Here,
flitting over the fallen logs, I stalked a pretty little brown
hill-wren {Pnoepi/ga pusilla), which started on the slightest
motion into a hole or crevice, and when at last wounded it
took refuge in a burrow two yards long, whence it had to be
dug out. This species was known before only from the
Himalayas and Tenasserim till it was discovered in this island
on the Padang mountains by Dr. Beccari ; but my Dempo
specimen was the first that had been seen in England.
Besides herds of elephants, an occasional Siamang, and
many tigers, mammalian life did show itself on the mountain.
The long grey-beard lichens now covering the trees were an
indicatiim of the dampness of the atmosphere. Here a red-
stemmed Begonia grew in the utmost luxuriance, intermingling

208 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

with a white species of honeysuckle (much visited by a fine
grey-haired humble-bee [Bomhus senex)), and which together
formed a white flower-dotted field that accompanied us for more
than 700 feet of ascent. At 7700 feet there was a marked
decrease in the amount of flowers and fruit that the half-tree,
half-shrub vegetation produced, whose foliage, I remarked,
was of a more or less crisp and brittle texture. At 8000 feet
my eyes were gladdened by the sight of a most lovely orchid
epiphytic on the trees, which is apparently the true Dendrohium
secundum;* its colour, which could not fail to catch the eye
of the most unobservant, was of the deepest purple or mauve-
pink, and its bells, suspended by a double-curved petiole of
a graceful form, hung in clusters of twelve to fourteen from
the tip of the stems. It is impossible of course to describe
the colour, but it was of the richest tint; the whole flower
was of the same colour, save one bright orange spot in the
throat of the labellum. For 200 feet upwards the trees were
profusely spangled with them, and it was really worth an
arduous climb to see and to gather them. It is surprising
to how limited an area some plants are confined. I could
find no specimens of this orchid above the narrow zone I
have mentioned. At 8200 feet I first gathered the beautiful
Hasp (Ruhus lineatus), which. I obtained on the Malawar moun-
tains in Java at a considerably lower elevation. On the
Java mountains, from C500 to 7000 feet, the abundance of
various kinds of Rasps formed a marked feature in the
vegetation ; here I was struck by their almost entire absence.
On the Tengamus in the Lampongs at the same height I had
met with no end of Nepenthacem, and with a beautiful orchid
of the genus Cijmhidium, but here neither the one nor the
other was seen ; one small scrap of a pitcher was indeed
brought to me from about 6500 feet, but, though I myself and
my hunters searched everywhere, we could find no more.
Here and there I now found small-leaved scraggy shrubs of a
species of Rhododendron (R. magnifiorum) bearing bright scarlet
flowers, and every further foot of ascent brought us among
dwarfed trees, and leaner and more scraggy shrubs, while the
moss on stone and stem grew deeper and deeper. At 8600

* Not the Dendroblum secundum of the horticulturists, but a different aud
far finer species.

7.V SUMATRA. 209

feet I suddenly emerged on the edge of one of the many
gorges which deeply grooved the side of the mountain, and
stood clear of the tall forest.

During my progress through the lower zones few insects,
but some very interesting forms of birds, had been noticed.
Besides the species I have mentioned above, I shot a rare
grass warbler {Smja albigularis), previously known only from
Sumatra, by one example from Acheen, in the north of the
island ; and twittering in low bushes a little fly-catcher, not
before taken in this island — Cidicieapa ceijlonensis. At
5000 feet, hopping about on fallen logs, dodging in the low
bush tangle, a black chat-thrush (Brachypterux atratus) vrith
a bright white line over the eye, fell to my gun, which was
not my luck in regard to the beautiful Paradise fly-catcher
{Terpsyplione affinis) which I saw — a pure white bird with
long black-shatted tail-feathers, named by the natives Tjabit
Kapan which signifies the white cloth in which the dead are
wrapped, as they believe that he by whom it is seen has not
long to live.

At 8G00 feet the tall forest suddenly ceased, and among my
feet I found some splended ericas of various species, the most
conspicuous being that which the natives have named "Tree
of the long age" {Kaiju panjang umoor), a new' species (Vac-
ciniicm forbesii), and one of the most handsome of its genus.
It was first met with as a shrub, low and compact, but 500 feet
higher it became a tree with a circumference of four feet.
This, with the scarlet rhododendron already mentioned, and
many species of ferns, monopolised the mountain up to 9000
feet, where I gathered, w ith perhaps more satisfaction still, a
wee species of Gentian that expanded its blue flowers on the
bare earthy banks.

To obtain the full pleasure of the climb, the day must be
perfectly clear, such as the first day of May on which I made
my most memorable ascent. It was one of the few absolutely
rainless days of my stay. When that height was attained
where the forest dwindled to a shrubbery, every foot of ascent
added to the grandeur of our outlook and to the number of
the peaks on peaks that came in view, along whose flanks the
clouds rolled u})wards in white humps and scuds, in striking
contrast witli tlie intense cobalt blue of their crests towerinj;

210 A NATUBALIST'S WANDEBINGS

against a sky of the most delicate tint of sea-green. At 9700
feet, the summit of uhat the natives call the Dempo was
surmounted, whence I looked down into the Sawah, or ancient
crater of the mountain the site of their sacred feasts and offer-
ings, and across to the Merapi, or Firejjeak, a more recent cone,
now the true summit of the volcano. Here almost no insects,
except annoying swarms of blue-bottle flies, were seen ; but
the little White-eyes (Zosferops clihrata) which had accompa-
nied us all the way up, flitted about on the Vaccinrum forbesii,
their nostrils laden with its pollen, busily performing that
important part in the economy of nature by which vigour is
added to the plants, and size and beauty to their flowers by
their cross-fertilisation.

A steep descent of 200 feet brought me to the Sawah (where
I built a camp), whose dark brown and greyish-black sandy
soil emitted a powerful odour of sulphur. It Avas dotted every-
where with clumps of heaths and rhododendrons and plants
with crisp dark green leaves, and with white woolly-foliaged
species of Compositse characteristic of volcanic soil {Anapihalis
javanica and A. saxatilis), which have a strong aromatic odour
somewhat like that of camomile. An infusion of its leaves
is supposed, from its sacred habitat (for it grows nowhere
else on the mountain), to possess healing powers. The slope
of the cone was dotted with " Long-age " whortleberry get-
ting more and more stunted as we ascended, till, within 200
feet of the rim of the crater, it almost disappeared except as a
low bush of one and a-half to two feet high. The whole face
of the ascent was covered with loose stones and pieces of
pumice an 1 scoria).

After a puffing clamber from the Sawah we gained the rim
of the crater, looking down some 300 feet of precipitous rock,
on what seemed a pure white polished mirror, set in a central
basin from which was slowly rising a column of steam. All
was quiet and placid, and I sat down a little to take in the
details of a scene so novel to me : — a vast circular basin half a
mile in diameter, with rocky sides of sheer precipices, display-
ing at various places horizontal strata ; at the bottom of this
another smaller basin, some 20O feet in diameter, filled to
within about 30 or 40 feet of its rim with a smoking substance,
whose surface, like burnished silver, reflected the blue sky and

IN SUMATRA. 211

every passing cloud. We bad sat thus for perhaps ten to
twelve minutes when I noted that the centre of the white basin
had become intensely black, and scored with dark streaks.
This area gradually increased. By steady scrutiny with my
glass, for it was difficult to make out what was silently
and slowly transpiring, I at last discovered that the black-
ness marked the sides of a chasm that had formed in — what I
now perceived the white burnished mirror to be — a lake of
seethinsc mud. The blackness increased. The lake was being:
engulphed ! A few minutes later a dull sidlen roar was heard,
and I had just time to conjecture within myself whence it
proceeded, when the whole lake heaved, and rose in the air for
some hundreds of feet, not as if violently ejected, but with
calm majestic upheaval ; and then fell back on itself with an
awesome roar, which reverberated round and round the vast
cauldron, and echoed from rocky wall to rocky wall like the
surge of an angry sea ; and the immense volume of steam, let
loose from its prison-house, dissipated itself into the air. The
wave circles died away on the margin of the lake, which
resumed its burnished face and again reflected the blue sky ;
and silence reigned again until the geyser had gathered force
for anotlier expiration. The roar of the coming explosion was
so awesome that such of my porters who had followed me, and
had never been to the top before, looked the picture of terror ;
and when the lake rose they took to their heels and fled in a
l)ody. Thus all day long the lake was swallowed up and
vomited forth, once in every fifteen to twenty minutes. That
it was not always so quiet even as now, the stones on the Sawah
and the scoria) on the sides of the cone testified. Once in about
every three years, and in some decades oftener, the natives
told rae, the crops of coffee, bananas and rice Avere quite
destroyed by '•' sulphur-rain," wliich covered everything for
miles round the crater.

On its eastern side, where the rim rises to its highest eleva-
tion, I made a hypsometrical observation; but it required all
my endurance to complete it, for, though a cold wind was
blowing and the thermometer registered only G3° F., the
sun's rays seemed to possess more than their ordinary power.
I could feel, with acute pain, my hands, face and neclc being
scorched the moment they came into the sunshine. I auc-

212 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

ceeded, however, in obtaining data which enabled me to
calculate the elevation to be 10,o6"2 feet.

I walked round the greater part of the ring of the crater,
searching under the stones and among the shrubs for what
signs of life there might be, pausing every now and then to
view the extended stretch of country spread out beneath. On
the margin of the crater a butterfly, like our little Heaths,
disported itself; but it always eluded my net by simply flitting
over the edge ; and among the Ericaceous shrubs a minute
moth {? Diopxa), which seems able to maintain well existence,
although it cannot leave its foothold on the shrubs without
being dashed to the ground by the strong winds perpetually
prevailing there ; a few small Carahidfe beneath the stones, and
other minute species swept from the bushes, represented the
coleopterous life. Little flocks of the small green Flower-
pecker [Zosterops) were the only birds seen or heard at the
summit ; but several others were obtained in the more protected
Sawah, among them the Himalayan Lusciniola fuliginiventris.

As the sun began to decline the temperature decreased
rapidly, warning us to prepare for a cold night. After I had
put on triple suits of clothes, which made me feel no more
than comfortable, I set about directing the preparation of a
sheltered camp for the porters and other natives, who, unless
ordered would take no care to protect, themselves against
the cold which at high elevations is so very frequently fatal
to them. At sunset the temperature fell to 472° F. The
night was perfectly clear, and the stars seemed to shine with
a brilliancy almost equal to that of our own frosty skies,
and to my eye certainly more clearly than I had ever seen
them from the tropical plains. When at 4 o'clock next
morning I went out into the Sawah, though the thermometer
registered 47° F. (the lowest reading of the night was 42^) the
air, which was perfectly still — its silence indeed almost over-
whelming— felt absolutely free from rawness in marked con-
trast to what I had experienced at sunset under almost the
same reading of the thermometer.

After a cup of hot coffee — at least as hot as it could be had at
an elevation of 9900 feet, that is to say, not much above 194"^ F.,
we started for the summit of the cone to see the sun rise,
under the guidance of one of the chiefs who had accompanied

IN SUMATltA. 21J

me, pickinj:^ our way in the dark over the stones and among
the bushes. We had hardly set out when a dense mist began
to envelop its flanks and summit, which up to this time had
stood out against the sky with perfect sharpness. Before we
were able to reach the crest we could see that the sun had
already come up, from the lighter glow of the mist in the east ;
but no view anywhere, however, could be obtained. It was
very cold and damp, and the thermometer did not register up
to seven o'clock more than 48'5U° F., and even at half-past
seven it had fallen again to 4550° F. Hoping that the mist
would clear, we seated ourselves behind a rock out of the wind to
watch the geyser below us ; and beside one of the small
enclosures, or low barricades of stone a few feet in length,
which were dotted all along the ridge, the sleeping places, thus
roughly sheltered from the wind, of the devotees who come to
inquire of the Dewa of the mountain in times of difficulty or,
as my guide said, in hope of finding near them in the morning
some charm whose possession would protect them against harm
or enable them to prevail over their enemies, or to attain some
dear object of their desire or ambition ; '' but they often," ho
added, " experience nothing but the cold."

As the sun rose a little higher and stronger, I observed on
the margin of the crater opposite to us a curious horseshoe-
shaped rainbow, and for some moments I was not aware that I
was witnessing a display of the Spectre of the BrosJcen. Each
person's shadow thrown oh the mist was surrounded by a bright
halo outside which was a band of mist, and the whole enclosed
in the distinct horseshoe-shaped rainbow. At length the mist
entirely cleared off the mountains, and we stood gazing on a
wonderful scene half land and half sea, from the highest peak
within the sweep of the eye; but any attempt to convey a
picture of such varied elements can be at best but mere dis-
jointed suggestions.

Looking away south-east, the eye. passing over the plain of
Passumah Ulu Manna, laid out in rice-fields in their first
fresh greenness of Alay, and dotted with grove-environed
villages, falls on the white surf of the distant ocean far to the
south of the town of ]\ranna, and follows it northward by its
forest-clad margin, on which I could even discern the tide
gently heaving, to beyond Bencoolen, until the meeting of

214 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

sea and sky and the peaks of the Barisan draws the view along
the northward-stretching forest of mountain tops, with their
shaded valleys and endless lines and curves of beauty, all of
the deepest cobalt blue, deepened in hue by contrast with the
cloud flocks that floated athwart their flanks and summits — pro-
minent among them the ridges of Korintji. Nearer stood out
the Kaba, with its smoking top ; and could that sharp cone
smoking on the horizon be the peak of Indrapura, with its
13,000 feet of stature three degrees of latitude away ? From
its sides the eye glided to the flat forest-clad plateau of Ulu-
Lintang, an old inland lake-floor which lay utterly hidden
beneatii a great cloud -sheet spread out close down on its
tree-tops, reflecting the sun like a mirror ; thence to the distant
verge of the broad Passumah below the mountain, void almost
of trees save a few by the ravine sides and on the precipitous
slopes of the gorges, over which lay fringes and patches of cloud
demonstrating the attracting power of even a slight arboreal
vegetation. Out of this undulating plateau, with its waste of
grass, amid which its flashing tabats looked like glittering
specks of glass scattered over it — the eye passed to the sontli
and south-western cobalt peaks and domes of the Barisan,
studded with flocky hummocks, and followed them till their
summits projected themselves on the Indian Ocean at the point
where the eye commenced its survey. No art could figure to
the mind the light and shade, the massive sheets of colour in
the wide scene ; the thousand different pictures that went and
came that summer's day upon the landscape's changeless out-
lines. The grand yet dread thundering of the geyser at our
feet, the scene of peace and mystic beauty outspread in solemn
silence beneath and around us. To have to speak or to listen
was an acute pain, and as distracting as a clamour of carping
tongues in the midst of some sweet melody or grand outburst
of music. As I grudgingly descended and the scene closed
behind me I felt that this perhaps had been an audience with
the Dewa of the mountain — at all events I had gained by
communing with Nature from this high pedestal of hers.

My future programme included a visit to the Kaba volcano,
to the sources of the Eiver Rawas, and, if the Djambi people
did not prove too hostile, an excursion into that Sultanate.
As all this would at least require six months to accomplish,

IN SUMATRA. 215

I was forced to draw my tent-poles in the end of May, so as to
reach Batavia in the beginning of the year 1882 in order to
prepare for my long-phmned expedition to the Far East of the
Archipehxgo.

It Avas with the liveliest regret that I took leave of the
village of Pan, where I had experienced more pleasure than
in any other locality I had yet visited. The climate was
simply delicious. Every forenoon, at least, was bright and
sunny, and the heat was never too great to be oppressive or
disagreeable, while the evenings were cool and the nights cold
enough to make a blanket enjoyable. Sickness was never
once thought about. Altogether, but for the difficulties of
food supply and companionship I could have wished to reside
there always. In its neighbourhood I had gathered nume-
rous interesting birds and insects. I had added A^tidopteriis
arinatus to the fauna of Sumatra, obtained Papilio diaphantus,
Liminitis hocldi, and added to science Idas jlavipennis, and
species of Terias, Danais, and KaUima and many of the rarest
and most beautiful productions of the vegetable kingdom,
especially of the giant trees and among the Orchidaceie and
Hajflesiacew.

Retracing my steps to Pagar Alam, I took my way north-
eastward, and, crossing the Ayer Durian which has its source
in the crater of the Dempo, passed out of the Passumah
Lands towards the Kaba. Reaching Gunung IMeraksa, in the
cleft of the Right and Left Lintang rivers, I learned that I
might shorten my way to Tebbing-tinggi by taking a raft
journey on the river — a mode of travel I had not before tried.
These rafts, made of tiers of bamboo well secured together by
pegs and rattan ropes, with an elevated platform in the centre
out of the reach of water, are guided by two pilots with
lonir oars. The Lintan": river was verv rough and narrow,
interrupted at short distances by rapids over Avhich it required
the greatest skill and knowledge of its rocks to guide us in
safety. We sailed mostly between perpendicular banks of
rough marls of Miocene age, against whose cliffs in many
places the river, descending a stony rapid, precipitated itself,
sweeping round its base at a right angle. The danger lay in
the raft's not obeying the working of the steersman's long stern-
paddle, and being dashed to pieces at these uncanny corners

216 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

where the sail being rather more exciting than pleasant I used to
clutch my seat with a nervous grip till they were safely passed.
All along the river's course every new bend presented us with
varying pictures — quiet stretches of smooth black water over-
hung with drooping trees, scenes of village life, and green
cultivated fields.

Ten miles down, the Lintang merged in the deep broad
Musi, along which we glided rapidly with a delightful motion
to the village of Lampar, which looked so promising a field
that I was induced to pitch camp for a time there to prosecute
my botanical work.

While here I found a second specimen of that curious spider
{Ornithoscatoides decipiens) which I had discovered in Java.
One day when my boys were procuring for me from a high tree
some botanical specimens, I was rather dreamily looking on
the shrubs before me during the moments of waiting, when I
became conscious of my eyes resting on a leaf marked with the
excreta of a bird. " How strange it is that I have never found
another specimen of that curious spider I got two years ago in
Java, which simulated a mark just like this ! " So thinking, I
plucked the leaf by its petiole, and looked half listlessly at it,
mentally remarking how very cleverly that other spider had
copied nature, when to my delighted surprise I found that I
had actually a second specimen in my hand ; but the imitation
was so exquisite that I really did not perceive how matters
stood for some moments. The spider never moved while I was
plucking and twisting the leaf, and it was only after I placed
the tip of my finger on it that I observed that it was lying on
its back, when with the rapidest motion, but without any
perceptible displacement of itself it flashed its falces into
my flesh. I have already described the habits of this spider
at page 63. It was extremely interesting to find again,
evidently as a constant habit, that the thin web film had been
drawn out as if to represent some of the fluid portion of
the excreta arrested in a drop before it had altogether run
to the margin of the sloping leaf. There is no doubt that
the spider must have acquired this mimicking habit by natural
selection ; yet it is difficult to explain how these minutiae,
which are not constant or essential in the model, have come
to be so accurately copied ; one cannot believe that it would

IN SUMATRA. 217

have been a whit worse off had the copy been less minutely
imitated.

In the beginning of July I packed my Lanting and con-
tinued my journey to Batu Pantjeh, gliding down the river
by this delightful mode of travel, wh\ch enabled me, carrying
my drying-paper and frames with me, to botanise all along
the river-side, stopping when and where I desired.

Near this village, the country became much lower on both
sides, showing that we were approaching the borders of the
great alluvial plateau of Palembang. Among my excursions I
suddenly came one day on a wide area, in the deep forest,
overspread with coral blocks, which in some places had become
solidified into more or less crystalline masses like what one
sees in the basework of a coral reef. It was evident that they
were standing, as left centuries ago by the seashore where
they were washed through and round about by the surf;
here corroded into crevices and bored by molluscs, and there
excavated into deep pits, and surrounded with blocks of worn
stones as if the tide had not long retreated from this old shore,
to-day distant as the crow Hies 200 miles from the coast. Now,
however, great trees were shadowing them, and gigantic figs
twining their roots among their grateful crannies ; ferns clothed
with graceful fronds the wasted blocks, and Begonias blossomed
over them. To alter Tennyson's well-known lines : —

Tiiere roU'd the deep where grows the tree,

O earth, Avhat changes hasl thou seen !
There where the forest sleeps hath beeu

The shore line of the noisy sea.

I was detained here, by an injury to my foot, for many
weeks much against my will, for the half pagan half 3Iaho-
medan people of the Ampat Lawang in unpleasant contrast
to those of the other regions I had been among, were any-
thing but friendly. They would neither give nor sell food
of any description, except a little old rice of the worst quality.
They even refused to carry my letters, so that I was unable to
make known my condition to the authorities or obtain relief till
I was well enough to resume my journey to complain in person,
when the chief of the village was rewarded according to his
deeds by the IMagistrate.

The liatu rantjeh houses are of a peculiar construction, com-

218 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

pact and picturesque, best described by saying that they are
furnished in front with a broad, partly roofed verandah, fenced
round by a close bamboo wickerwork, nearly concealing the
inmates when standing erect, and protected by a strong door,
which is reached by a stair. With their floors on the level of
the verandah and their doors opening on to it, are little huts
built out beyond the edge of the verandah, for cooking pur-
poses, for keeping fowls in, for storing rice and for other con-
veniences, altogether forming a most convenient, commodious,
and secure dwelling, below which, as usual, their store of
chopped wood is kept.

One morning I was awakened by a vigorous clattering of
sticks, accompanied by much laughter. On looking out I
perceived that most of the rice-blocks of the village had been
hauled together, and that the maidens of the place were
beating on them in concert a lively tattoo for some happy
occasion. As each block and each stamper produced a
different note, the resulting music was by no means inhar-
monious. Throughout the forenoon the boys and youths,
lounging in groups, indulged at intervals in bursts of cheer-
ing very like our own hurrah : " Wooi-wood-iL-dd-dd-cid ! "
Tiie jubilation was on account of a marriage which was that
evening to be solemnised in the village. Next afternoon I
was again surprised by peals of "AVoo-a's!" proceeding from a
crowd collected near the house of the newly married pair,
whence shortly, amid vociferous cheering, the bridegroom
appeared, wearing on his head the cap of a Vice-chief of the
marga, dressed in a sarong suspended by a gold-buckled belt,
his body otherwise bare save for a sash-like cloth across his
chest. By his side he wore a gold- handled kriss, and carried
in his right hand a be-flagged lance with its tip sheathed —
the wedding staff. Over his head one of his young men held a
white umbrella, another carried his siri-box, while a drum and
several gongs played in advance of the procession. A little
bshind him came the bride weeping, in a purple silk badjo and
a red petticoat worked with thread of gold, attended by all
the maidens of the village, some of whom performed for her
the same offices as the young men did for her husband. The
processions wended their way to the river, Avhere both the bride
and the bridegroom were bathed by their respective attendants,

7.V SUMATRA. 219

after which they returned, preceded by an old female relative
of the bridegroom, who spread cloths before them all the waj
to a spot in the centre of the village. Here a couple of mats
a little distance apart, had been placed, on the one of which
the bridegroom and his relatives, and on the other the bride
and hers, seated themselves, each with their umbrella and
siri-box before them. During the intervals of music that
attended the ceremony, the youths of the bridegroom's party
pelted, as if slily and clandestinely, with handfuls of yellowed
rice the bride and her attendant maidens, who returned
the compliment, while the fowls were enticed to pick up the
grains that fell on the ground. This was supposed to be an
invocation to the Dewa to bless the union and grant sufficient
food, with at least a superabundance for the fowls to pick
up. The old relative made various inquiries at both parties :
" Will he have this woman ? " " Will she have this man ? "
When the " I will ! " had been publicly said and returned in
the face of the village, she presented a lump of rice to the
bride who took a bite, and the rest she placed in the mouth
of the bridegroom — in token that the wife was to have the
same board as her husband. After sitting for an hour or
so in the face of the village, to make brothers with all the
inhabitants, and as an advertisement of their new relations,
the procession continued its way to the house of the bride-
groom, where a feast was provided. The closing act of the
ceremony was the removal by the husband of all his wife's
ornaments and jewels, which she could never again resume
unless she wished to commit that supreme crime in the eyes
of her husband, of appearing to wish that she were a maiden
again.

All day long the boys used to amuse themselves under my
window with a game called Lepar, that interested me much
partly from the rarity of games among the children, as well as
from the enthusiastic manner in which they played it. Each
player, furnisliod with a quoit-shaped disk cut out of a eocoanut
shell, played forward from a stance, so as to strike either one or
(according to the number of players) more disks arranged on
the ground some forty or fifty foot distant. E;ich played in
succession; his turn continuing after his first three shots, till
he failed to drive his own against any of the goal disks. The

220 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

manner of propelling the disks was curious. The player,
placing his shell flat on the ground, turned his back to the
goal, and, firmly grasping his quoit between his heels, with a
circular motion of the one leg he caused the disk to shoot
forward, describing on its rim a cycloidal curve towards the
goal. It was surprising with what accuracy the best players
calculated the force necessary to make it describe a curve
whose circumference should just pass through the disk aimed
at. The players Avere divided into two unequal parties,
the smaller being " out." As long as a player was able to
strike with three tries the first goal-shell, and then the others
in succession, he remained an " in "-player, and was carried
back each time to the stance on the back of one of the out-
players. When he failed he became an out-player, and had to
deposit his shell at the goal to be played at by the others. If
a disk discharged from the stance described a curve " out of
bounds," one of the out-players croqueted it from the stance as
far as he could, and from the spot where it came to rest the
player's second stroke had to be made. They played with
wonderfully good humour, and compared favourably with an
equal number of boys at home. 1 never witnessed a case of
ill-temper or sourness at losing, or quarrelling during the
many days I was in the village.

I was not very fortunate, owing to my illness, in obtaining
many new birds, but some of the sun-birds, which frequented
the cocoa-palm flowers and the blossoms of shrubs close at
hand, were of remarkable beauty, especially a species of
Cinnyris {G. liasselti) with a forehead of deep metallic ultra-
marine blue ; its neck and back of the darkest lake, passing
into green and orange on the rump, where the black wings
cover it ; below the wings the tail protruded, of a deep blue.
Its neck and throat were of the richest scarlet, down which
ran, from the angles of the jaws, two lines of the intensest
blue. It was such a thing of beauty that I could scarcely dare
to handle it for fear of injuring its gorgeous tinting.

From Batu Pantjeh I moved down as soon as I was able to
Tebbing-Tinggi, a large village sheltering under a forest-clad
hill, with a considerable Arab and Chinese population, who
have good shops and carry on a large and prosj)erous trade
with the surrounding districts. To me, who had so long been

IN SUMATBA. 221

dwelling amid the monotonous life of the mountain villages of
the interior, the frequent bugle-calls, the uniformed troops,
the overshadowing stone-built fortress, the shop-fronts, which
seemed large in my eyes, the substantial houses, the boats on
the river loading and unloading cargoes, the coolies running to
and fro with goods — this gentle troubling of the pool of industry,
seemed to me the very bustle of a metropolis ; and as I walked
down its one street to the Travellers' Bungalow^ in my travel-
scarred garments, great sun-hat and rough boots, I felt the
bashfulness of a rustic adding to the redness of my sunburnt
countenance, and as uncomfortable as if I had been planted
down in similar attire in Eegent Street.

In resuming my journey towards the Kaba I had to give up
mv late delicious mode of travel, and change the river for the
road. Keaching the village of Tandjong-Ning, I found that
much tree-felling was going on in the forests pertaining to it ;
and, hoping to enrich my herbarium, I set up my camp for a
while in its Balai, a structure that might have held an army.
But the village was very unsavoury, as every sort of filth and
refuse from the houses was allowed to drop through the floor to
the ground below. I found that my fame had reached before
me, and that not particularly favourably. For some time tigers
had been prowling about in the district in great numbers, and.
as the Dempo is called the " Barracks of the Tigers," they had
been scared from their natural home by a potent spell which
I must have set up there when I ascended it. It was no use
to deny the imputation — " it was well known ! "

The village was prettily situated above the river Saling,
which wound about below it in a deep rocky gorge, through
banks which are excavated into long pools and deep pots and
s[)arkling rapids, full of fish of fifteen different kinds (accord-
ing to the enumeration of the village chief), and for which the
inhabitants, who seem ardent lovers of the gentle art, angle
with great assiduity and success with bamboo fishing-rods,
and a line of single fibre strong as cat-gut, drawn out of the
bark of a tree.

Where the felling was going on in the forest, I obtained

many fine specimens, and nowhere do I recollect to have seen

such enormous trees. Thickly scattered about on the ground

as they were, over an area of perhaps a mile square, I failed

16

222 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

to realise the gigantic proportions of their prostrate trunks
till I began to move about and travel along them. A human
figure was lost among them. Standing by these trunks, my
head often did not reach much more than to half the height
of some of them, while their length of bare stem measured as
much as forty or fifty yards before giving oif a branch.

One afternoon, as I was returning from this forest with my
men who had been felling trees, walking in line one behind
the other as is their custom, a tiger suddenly slipped from the
jungle bordering the road, and in a moment struck down a
youth a few yards before me. I dared not fire for fear of
striking the youth, but his father, who was walking just in
front of him armed with a spear, dashed on it and gave it
a right willing thrust, which, with the threatening group, made
it quit its hold, when it sprang into the thick jungle. It was
all the work of a moment ; the stroke of its paw did not seem
to be tremendous, but the claws of the brute had penetrated
so deeply into the chest and shoulder of the youth that he
survived scarcely a quarter of an hour after being carried into
the village. Early next morning I was aroused by a great
commotion, a loud screaming and scampering of feet, amid
which I heard the word " Matjan " (tiger). Jumping up, I
slid a cartridge into my Martini- Henry, and rushed out, to
find every man brandishing a long spear in the one hand and
a kriss in the other, all looking very scared. The tiger of the
previous day had come after his unburied quarry, as they
firmly believed and asserted against my doubts that he would,
and had actually ventured into the middle of the village, and
within thirty feet of my door which stood next to the house
containing the dead body. The clamour had frightened it
oif into the impenetrable jungle which closely hedged round
the village, whither I could follow it only a very short way.

As we re-entered the village the body of the youth was
beinor brought out for burial amid terrible wailings of the
women. It was sewed into a thick grass mat, on the top of
which were spread flowers of the cocoa and pinang jjalms, and
over which, as it was borne away, handfuls of yellowed rice were
thrown. The villagers fell in behind the body, each man
with a spear over his shoulder, their tips glittering in the
sun like a regiment of bayonets, for fear of another sudden

JIY fOl.l.Ki luK Kll.Lh.l) BY A TIGER.

7.V SUMATRA. 223

attack. The grave was made deeper than usual, and well
protected on the top, as they affirmed that the tiger would
certainly try to scrape up the body. The lamentations of the
women, which were terrible to hear as the body was taken
away, continued till the return of the people from the funeral,
and then entirely ceased. It is difficult to learn whether
these were really bitter mournings, or merely the following of
their custom. The event, however, cast a visible gloom over
the village, and I felt relieved when it returned to its more
ordinary ways. For several nights after the funeral the father
of the youth, sitting by himself alone in his house, chanted
from sundown till daybreak what they call the Tjeritu hari,
or death dirge, a most plaintive lament ; and to me it seemed
the most saddening, woe-laden wail I had ever heard, rising
and falling on the silent night like a wintry wind.

As expected, the tiger attempted to scrape up the body the
night after its burial. Next night and for several others I
watched the grave, but the tiger did not keep tryst with me ;
but when I was not there it never failed to come. I therefore
assisted them to construct a snare to catch it on its first return.
A fence was made at all such places as there was a possibility
of approach to the grave, leaving on the cleared road a very
conspicuous open gate, across which a thin cord was loosely
drawn, connected with a green bamboo some thirty feet long
bent by the strength of several men into a bow, at whose
extremity a sharp spear was so arranged as to be shot athwart
the entrance-gate, on the release of the bamboo by the tiger
pressing with his breast on the twig-like cord in his way.
Every night the trap was re-set for six days, without the tiger's
appearance. The seventh it was left unset as apparently use-
less ; next morning it was found that the tiger had been within
the enclosure, and I saw it faithfully set in the evening. The
following morning I was awakened by a great chattering out-
side the Balai, and, starting up to learn the cause of the uproar,
I was informed that the traj) had shot in the night, and the
spear had been broken off, but the tiger had not been found.
I was soon among the eager crowd, who had armed to beat the
woods. It was evident from the blood on the spear-shaft that it
was sorely wounded, and could not be far off". We had little
need, however, of gun or spear, for some thirty yards in the

224 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

forest we found the warm body of the feline. Transfixed from
side to side, it had cleared the high fence with one gigantic
bound, and fallen dead where it lay. As soon as it was known
that the body had been found, every man, woman and child
hastened out of the village to see the carcase of their enemy,
every individual, save the youngest children, bringing with
him a knife or kriss. It was only with the very utmost
difficulty that I could, by standing on the body and uttering
the direst threats, prevent each of these blades from being
thrust into the skin, which I wished to preserve. With what
savage delight and revenge they did gloat over that carcase,
and run their weapons into its body when they could ! What
blood there was about was all used up in dipping them in to
insure bravery ; and all passed their krisses broadside over and
over the body to absorb the potent emanation from this personi-
fication of power and boldness. When the body was being
skinned the relatives of many of those who had perished by
tigers came and begged for a piece of the heart or brain, that
they might revenge themselves by eating it— especially one
old woman who had thus lost first her only son, and later had
had her husband carried off before her eyes.

The graveyard of the village was laid out along the river,
on each side of a moss-grown path, overshadowed by tall and
aged trees. All about grew delicate ferns and shrubs sacred
to the dead. Almost at the end of this tall avenue I came
one day on a house of some dimensions, with a closed door,
having a space in front cleared of vegetation, and kept neatly
in order. By peering though an aperture I could see inside,
surrounded by a close pavement of stones, a solitary grave-
stone. This was the resting-place of the Nene Poyang, or
Forefather, who had established the village. When any great
trouble overtakes the village, such as many deaths from tigers,
or times of scarcity befall them, they assemble here, and killing
a goat or a buffalo, they invoke the good offices of the spirit of
their ancestor. If a man have a dispute with another and the
matter be referred to his oath, it is over the stone of their
ancestor here that he swears.

MY HIT AT THE HOI -SI'IUNGS, FOOT OF THE KABA VOLCANO.

IN SUMATRA. 225

CHAPTER VIII.

SOJOFEN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY — continued.

Leave Tandjonfr-Xini — Pailnni Ulak-Tandjonc; — Kepala Tjurup — Hot
siblings of the Kaba — Earthquake — Botanical features — Curious iilants —
Fertilisation of Melastonia — A pilgrimage — The crater of the Kaba — The
Noinadic Kubus — Riipit river scenery — Gold gatherers— ^luara-rn pit
— Tlie Darian — Surnlangun — -Thieves and thieves' calendar^ — Malay
dignity — Leave for Muaia Mengkulem.

Leaving the village of Tandjong-Ning, I proceeded across a
gradually-rising country, at that period very poverty-stricken,
in which there was little new or interesting to detain me.
Two days brought me to Padang Ulak-Tandjong, on the river
Klingi, the seat ol the magistrate of the district, where I was
detained for several days owing to the difficulty of obtaining
transport. All the able-bodied men had left the district in
search of food in far-off parts, as there had been no rice in their
own, from the failure of the crops for several years. Kepala-
Tjurup, the nearest village to the Kaba, was ten miles ftirther
on, and eight from the base of the mountain. There I left the
heavy baggage, and by a rough and difficult ravine-intersected
path through the forest, along which I noticed not a iesv plants
new to me, I proceeded to the hot springs at tlie base of the
Kaba, where I built a hut arriid the steam which continually
rolled up from the water that bubbles out in the face of a steep
ravine at a temperature of 170" F.

I had not taken up my quarters many hours before I was
made sensibly aware that I was in a volcanic region by a
severe and long-continued shock of earthquake. Later on, on
the evening of the lOth of September, I again experienced two
very strong vertical bumps, which tossed me clean upwards
from my chair, dislodged a large pet Hornbill from its perch,
and shook a heavy shower of drops from the trees. The Argus

226 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

pheasants screamed, and the howl of the Siamang broke the
stillness of the evening. The sensation was as if an inter-
mittent upheaval, such as I witnessed in the crater of the
Dempo, had taken place under my feet.

The stream close at hand swarmed with excellent fish, of
which some were caught every day for my table ; the woods
were full of deer, which frequented the hot springs to drink,
of herds of tapir and of elegant little Tragulidae. Numerous
Buceros birds advertised their presence by their cries ; in the
darker shades were pittas (P. venusta) pheasants and species of
partridge {Ccdoperdix oculea); while Babbling-thrushes (Rliino-
cichla mitrata and Sihia simillima), and many kinds besides,
added their chorus to the woods.

The botanical features of the district were not without
interest, though not so rich as some of the localities I had
already visited. At my door, growing in a thicket, was one of
those shrubs (Samhucus javanica), which like the Ponicettia,
produce in the close vicinity of their florets, curious and
little cups full of rich, yellow honey whose function is still a
disputed question. The species of Samhucns in Europe, as
is well known, have thread-like stipules with glandular tips,
which in S. racemosa, M. Bonnier* has observed, produce
liquid sugar abundantly. H. Miillert has recorded that a
species of Samhucns {S. nigra ?) is not visited by bees, but by
flies, on account of its odour ; but JM. Bonnier says, " S. racemosa
is visited by bees. The distribution of the nectaries . . .
(according to the German physiological botanist Sachs) is
always in immediate relation to the specific combinations that
the flower has developed {realise) for the purpose of fertilisa-
tion by insects. They visit the flowers to imbibe the nectar,
by which they are nourished, and which is distilled exclusively
for this purpose." M. Bonnier holds t that " the greater part
of the accumulated sugar returns to the plant when the nectar
loses the sugar it contained [which supervenes when the fruit
begins to grow]. ... In regard to the floral nectaries, when
the sugar disappears from the nectariferous tissue, they go to

* Bunnier, " Les Nectaires," Annates des Sciences Naturelles Botanique, viii.
1879, pp. 1-212. For a referaice to this interesting pa[)er I am mucli
indebted to Lord Justice F:y.

t * Die BefruclitiMj: der Blumen durch Insekten,' [.eipzig, 1873, p. 433.

j Loc. cit. I'. 1'j9,

IN SUMATRA. 227

contribute to the nourishment of the young fruit and young
ovules ; and, in regard to the extrafloral nectaries, they go to
the development of the neighbouring organ." The chief
visitors and fertilisers of the S. javanica were white butterflies
(Pieridae) ; but I was unable to detect them sipping from the
honey-cups ; while species of wasps {Eumenes) that frequented
them occasionally came cautiously from below to sip the nectar,
but disregarded the flowers. These little cups were not confined
to the neighbourhood of the flowers, but were arranged abun-
dantly on the leaves and on the stems of the plant as well.

Here I was gratified to find abundance of the great Arums,
AmorpliophaUus titanum, of which I have already spoken ; *
with tubers of a greater size than any I had seen before, some
of them, indeed, being the largest yet recorded. The greatest
— measuring in circumference six feet six inches, and its stem
at the base two feet seven inches — formed, on its removal
from the ground, a load for twelve men.

A striking feature also of the forest here was the enormous
results of the activity of earth-worms. The whole surface of
the ground was as rough and hummocky as a newly-ploughed
field. A tube four and a half inches in circumference and
eight inches high was often raised in a single night, and as, in
some places, there were as many as ten to twelve of these in
a square yard, it becomes evident what powerful agents they
are in the fertilisation of the soil, incessant as they seem
to be in their work of carrying up the soil from below and
laying it down on the surface, burying the rotting debris of the
forest. Insects were by no means common. Few bees, fewer
beetles, and hardly one of the finer forms of butterflies were
found except the magnificent Ornitlwptera hrookeana, whose
favourite resort was the stones that cropped out above the
hot water, and which were of a temperature but little below
130° F. This butterfly has a bar of the richest lake dividing
the head from the thorax ; its blue-black wings are banded
on the upper side with the most sparkling metallic emerald,
and the under sides slashed with metallic green and blue,
which glittered and flashed in the sunshine, in whose brightest
hours alone they made their appearance.

On the first favourable day, accompanied by one of the
* Supra, p. 175.

228 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

chiefs of the district, I started for the crater of the njountain.
The path lay through a very gently rising stretch of forest,
abounding in Zhosiigma trees, alternating with bamboo clumps,
but with almost no undergrowth, except low grass and a few
herbs. Where the mountain began to ascend more steeply,
we entered a dense thicket of tall reedy grass and fern tangle,
through which there would have been no possibility of pro-
gressing had I not sent men on several days before to make
a path. So tall was the grass that merely a tunnel could
be excavated in it, through which we half walked half crept,
aud along which the baggage was dragged only with the
utmost difficulty. Above this we encountered many Tern-
stroemacew, with large white and rose-coloured corollas, scented
laurel (Tetranthera citrata) whose sweet perfume filled the
air, and small trees called by the natives BaliJc-siimjM, from
whose fruits necklets are made for children to wear as charms.
When a youth and a maiden have plighted their troth by an
oath, or indeed made any oath before their marriage, they
make for their first child a necklet of the fruit of this
tree, in order that no harm may overtake it on account
of their oath ; the name implies " Averter of the oath."
Above this the mountain presented a singular appearance.
With the exception of a species of Pandan, there were no more
trees to be seen, only low shrubs of a pretty species of honey-
suckle, which gave the mountain the appearance of being
heather-clad, thickly interspersed with a taller species of pink
Melastoma with a profusion of immense flowers nearly three
inches in width, giving the landscape the appearance of being
set with wild rose-trees. These fine shrubs accompanied us
quite to the summit. Just about their commencement the
leeches which had attacked our limbs without mercy ceased to
be found ; on the Dempo they drew the line at 7500 feet.

A large humble-bee {Bombus senex) was busy visiting these
]\Ielastoma-flowers, and I watched its operations with the
greatest interest. Each flower has two forms of stamens,
short and long, difl'ering in colour and shape. The short
stamens have yellow anthers, a, which stand out from the middle
of the flower, and are very conspicuous ; the longer stamens
have anthers, a^, approaching in colour to that of the petals form-
ing their background, and are therefore less conspicious, and

IN SUMATBA. 229

they have a singular knee extended into a fork-like projection,/,

which in the flower lies just below the bright yellow anthers

of the short stamens. The lower portion of the long stamens

takes a backward curve from the

fork carrying the pores of its

anthers far from those of the

short stamens. This arrange- "^i^^^^^S/

ment is most beautifully adapted,

as was first pointed out by Fritz

]\[uller, for the cross-fertilisation FLo\vER(mAGRAMMATic)oFMELASTOMA.

PI, IN SECTION. — 2>, petal; a', antheu

01 tne plant. of shout sTAJIENS ; /, FORK OF I ONG

The bees invariablv made stamens; o-, anther of long sta-

. , 1-1 II ' 1 -• JiENs; c. filament OF LONG anther;

tor the bright yellow j)lattorm ^(, stigma of i-istil ; s, ovary.
oifered by the bunch of short

stamens (perhaps because they do not perceive from a distance
the pink pistil and long stamens projected against the
pink corolla), and invariably received the pistil between their
legs, their feet settling also on the adjoining fork of the long
stamens. The instant effect of this is to collect the whole
of the long stamens into a bunch, and to depress their anthers
downwards and away from the body of the bee, while the
stigma of the pistil (wliich hangs down close to the pores
of the long-stamened anthers) remains in constant contact
with its ventral side. At the moment of the bee's depar-
ture, the hooks on its feet, by pulling on the fork of the long
stamens, raise their anthers, bringing — now that there is no
fear of producing self- fertilisation of the plant — their tips in
a collected bunch into contact with its sides and abdomen.
Long after I had made these observations, while working in the
laboratory of the Buitenzorg Gardens, l>r. Burc:k pointed out to
me a fact of consideralde importance which I was able to verify
for myself, that there was in very closely allied species of this
family a great difference in the shaj^e of the pollen of the two
forms of anther ; that while jwllen of lx)th shapes wiis found on
the pistil, that from the long stamens alone seemed fertile. We
could not detect any ixdlen tubes (which are emitted when the
pollen is fecundating the plant) emanating from the pollen of
the short-stamened anthers.

The reason why some organ of a plant or animal has assumed,
as it were, an abuovmal form, is not always easy to discover ;

230 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

but we may feel sure that a change of form indicates a corre-
sponding change of function ; and in discovering its true
raison d'etre, the object of our contemplation is invested
with a halo of interest which it could not otherwise have
possessed.

The yellow, short-stamened anthers have evidently left their
ordinary function of fecundation to become an enticing food-bait
to attract insects to the flower, while the long stamens have
varied in form to secure to the utmost their ordinary function
bv insuring that their pollen shall fecundate not their own
but their neighbour's stigma. This result, however, would be
impossible but for the singularly methodical habits which
bees have of visiting in a long sequence the same species of
flowers.*

How fitly jointed together all nature hangs !

After I had progressed some distance on the morning on our
way up, I became aware of two men following us who were not
of our party. On inquiry I found that they were Ampat Lawang
men iroins to the mountain to invoke the Dewa. One carried a
white pigeon in a cage, and both were dressed with care in their
best garments. On arrival at my hut, they adjourned along
with my guide to the summit overlooking it. Here they
burned benzoin incense to the Dewa, whom they should have
invoked by a prayer, but as none of them could "menhadji"
this part of the ceremony had perforce to be dispensed with.
Thereafter they made their way to the Kaba peak, wliich rose
on our opposite side perpendicularly out of the crater. There
the two were to spend the night in the open air, and let
loose their pigeon as an offering to the Dewa. I knew that
they must have come on some special mission, and suspected
that the younger man had perhaps set his heart on a fair
maiden, and desired to impress the deity into his suit ; or
that they had come to solicit a good rice crop in what was then
an almost famine time ; or that sickness or some grave trouble
oppressed them ; but on inquiring of my guide the specific
reason, I found that they were earnestly desirous that the
Dewa might incline the heart of the magistrate of their district
to grant them leave to hold— a cock-fighting tournament !

The hut of pandan mats which I had sent men to erect close
* Cf. Nature, vol. xxiv. p. 307 ; xxvi. p. 386 ; xxvii. p. 30.

IN SUMATRA. 231

to the summit I found placed but a few yards from the crater
edge. On reaching the brink the first look quite startled me. I
stood on the edge of a sheer precipice 600 or 700 feet in depth,
looking down into a gigantic unevenly-floored pit bounded
by perpendicular walls which till a short time previously
had been a lake. The floor was of a deep blue-black colour,
giving vent at various points to jets of steam. From this
standpoint it seemed that there was no possible way of reaching
the crater floor than by leaping over the precipice ; but, on
proceeding along its rim, I found a spot where the cliffs became
considerably lower. This less elevated wall turned out to be
only a dividing dyke separating the western from another
much greater and more irregular eastern crater, into which I
would not venture to descend, as, on probing its floor, it
treacherously gave way under the weight of our feet. ]n the
ugly rents and chasms athwart it, and in the great unsightly
blocks of stone furiously piled up against each other in all
directions, giving issue between them to steam and foetid
vapours, it was not inviting. 'Vo reach the western floor we
descended a declivity of some TO'^, scrambling sometimes on
hands and feet sometimes sliding on our heels, not without an
eerie feeling, for, though all looked still and quiet, there was
a continuous and awesome sound, waxing and waning like an
angry sea breaking on a shingly shore. The whole surface
was covered with a layer of black sand and irregular fragments
of stone, many of them of great size and weight, chipped and
indented by the impact of others falling on them. The lake,
which a few years before filled it, had disappeared. The soil
was quite porous, and on the surface unpleasantly hot to
the hand, but further down candescent enough to scorch my
walking-stick thrust into it ; from the whole surface vapours
gently emanated, leaving variously coloured deposits. At one
spot several great cauldrons were in fierce ebullition, emitting
steam, with a roar like some cyclopean engine blowing off power
which the walls resolved into the sound of a surf-beaten shore ;
and besides, vapour, sand, water, and white and rich chrome
coloured muds, tinged with alum and sulphur.

Three years had elapsed since its previous eruption had ceased
and six since it had commenced. Before that time it had been
quiescent since about 1833. The whole country for twenty miles

232 A NATURALIST'S WANDEIilNGS

round had been covered with volcanic dust, and even at the
time of my visit the soil of the banks of the Kliugi at fifteen
miles off was so charged with noxious substances that, when
portions fell in during heavy rains, numbers of fish died
from its effect on the water. The mountain itself was every-
where covered with a sheet of black sand ; and above the belt
of grass and ferns I have mentioned, no trees had survived
— everywhere their dead trunks stood erect, or lay prostrate
on the bleak blasted ground. On such a gigantic scale aud
so proportionate is the whole scene that one fails to realise the
vast dimensions of the caverns ; and it is only when the eye —
viewing from the summit and comparing with the littleness
of a human figure the blocks of stone and the huge ejected
rocks, which seem but the small atoms of which the scene is
composed — pauses to estimate its vast walls and its enormous
stretch from rim to rim, that some comprehension is attained
of the immensity of the powers that have been at work and
tbe effects they have produced.

In many places, extending over a wide area in an easterly
direction, steam could be seen issuing from the ground ; and at
one spot on the crest of the Biring peak vapours were issuing
from rents which must have been but a few weeks old, as the
grass in their neighbourhood had not entirely disappeared,
though it was brown and yellow. In many places, too, could
be seen large dismal areas and mounds of black sand, ejected
in recent eruptions or upbursts.

The most prominent feature of the landscape on the upper
portion of the mountain was certainly the Pandans, which,
though but sparsely dotted about, reared their lean ungainly
stems and sparse tufted foliage prominently above the shrubs
and other bushes, and, combined in the view with numerous
spots blasted by volcanic action, gave a dreariness and a
feeling of desolation to the scenery of the Kaba which the
great beauty of the Melastoma, which will always remain
associated with it in my recollection, could not redeem.

From the Kaba I directed my course towards the upper
reaches of the Musi river ; but the obtaining of transport was
very difficult, as there was almost nobody but women left in
the district, all the men having gone away to labour in Palem-
bano- and other centres to earn rice, which had so failed in

IN SUMATRA. 233

their own district. The poor people had sold all their saleable
goods, and were then many of them living in the deep forest,
feeding on fruits and green herbs, and making sago from
the Areng palm ; or in search of rattan and halam (their name
for the various species of gum-elastic and gutta-percha), to
exchange for rice in Palembang, whence all their supplies had
to be brought — a twenty to thirty or more days' laborious
pole up the river. They were besides all so very weak from
spare diet that we had to arrange the baggage in small bundles
and employ a larger number. Our road lay at first south-east
alone: the Klino-i, and then northward across the tributaries
of the Lakitan, to the village of Suka-Radja, on the Rupit
river, where I spent a few profitable weeks.

Here I obtained an interesting bird, a green species of Spider-
eater — an elegant genus with long curved bill — flitting about
near the ground on the rocky pavement. On dissection I
found its stomach to contain, besides insects and the seeds of
Scitaminess, a waxy substance. The natives say that it feeds on
the flowers of the Scitaminex that bloom on the surface of the
ground. These are most of them of very bright colours, and
grow in deep shade where few insects are to be found, and it is
very probable that the grateful office of cross-fertilisation is per-
formed for them by the Spider-eater and other birds. The most
remarkable feature of the forests here was an immensely tali
thick tree called by the natives Sekawang (? Bassia, sp.), whose
scarlet flowers keep falling, during the two or three weeks of
its blossoming time, in one incessant rain, covering the ground
with a deep scarlet carpet, so deep that hundreds of bushels
might be gathered, from which a peculiar and very oppressive
but not disagreeable odour emanates.

Here I made my first acquaintance with the Kuhus, a race
of whom I had heard much in the southern parts of my
journey as a wild tribe living houseless in the forests, covered
with hair, and altogether so peculiar a people as to be famous
far from their own regions. As I approached nearer to their
haunts the exaggerated tales about them became reduced
nearer to the bounds of truth ; but still then little reliable
information could be obtained ; so that it was with extreme
satisfaction that I learned one day that in their wanderings, a
small company of them had come into the neighbourhood.

234

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

to whom I sent the head of the village to call them to speak
with me.

The Kubus are a small tribe of people inhabiting the central
parts of Sumatra, and it has been claimed by some for them
that they are the remnants of the pristine indigenes of the
country.

My first introduction was to two men, one woman, and one
child ; shortly afterwards, however, at Surulangun,* through
the kind assistance of Mr. Kamp, the Controller of the district.

A KrBU MAN AND WOMAN, SKETCHED IN THE VILLAGE OF KOTTA-RADJA.

I was able to examine a considerable number of these people, to
collect some information about them, and to obtain one cranium
and, after considerable difficulty, one complete skeleton.

The Kubus are a nomadic race wandering about in the
forests on the borders of the Jambi Sultanate and of the Palem-
bang Residency, along the banks and affluents of the great
rivers, the JMusi and the Batang Hari. The Dutch Govern-
ment some years ago began the attempt to teach these people
the rudiments of the art of agriculture, and have after much

* See below, page 240.

IN "SUMATRA. 235

difficulty succeeded in getting a few families in several
districts to assume in some degree a settled residence in
villages made for themselves. It was owing to these partially
civilised communities that I am indebted for a sight of the
people I met at Surulangun.

In their wild state they live in the deep forest, making
temjiorary dwellings, if their rude shelters can be called such, in
which they st;iy for a few days at a time, where food is obtain-
able, or for the purpose of collecting beeswax, dammar, and
gutta-percha. Their dwellings are a few simple branches
erected over a low platform to keep them from the ground, and
thatched with banana- or palm-leaves. They are so timorous
and shy that it is a rare circumstance for any one to see them,
and of course an extremely rare one for any Avhite man. In
fact, I doubt if any white man has ever seen the uninfluenced
Ivubu, save as one sees the hind-quarters of a startled deer. In
the small trade carried on between them and the Malay traders
of the Palembang and Jambi Residencies, the transactions are
performed without the one party seeing the other. The Malay
trader, ascending to one of their places of rendezvous, beats a
gong in a particular way to give notice of his arrival. On
hearing the signal, the Kubus, bringing out what forest produce
they may have collected, and depositing it on the ground at
this place, hastily retire into close hiding, beating a gong as a
signal that all is ready. The trader then slowly and cautiously
approaches, lays down on the ground the cloth, knives, and
other articles of barter he has brought, to the amount which
he considers an equivalent exchange, beats a gong and in like
manner disappears. The Kubus proceed then to examine the
barter offered ; if they think the bargain satisfoctory they
remove the goods, beat their gong and go away ; while the
trader packs up the produce he finds left lying on the ground.
If the bargain is not considered by them sufficiently advan-
tageous, they set on one side a portion of their produce, to
reduce it to what they consider the value of the barter offered ;
and thus the affair see-saws till finally adjusted or abandoned.
They are so afraid of seeing any one not of their own race that,
if suddenly met or come up with in the forest, they will drop
everything and flee away. They cultivate nothing for them-
selves, but live entirely on the products of the forest — snakes,

236 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

lizards, grubs, fruits, an occasional deer, pig, or tapir, which
a bappy effort has rewarded them with — and what they pur-
chase by barter from Malays. They know nothing of art ; they
manufacture absolutely nothing. Their knives and the univer-
sal spear with which they are armed are purchased from the
Malays with whom they trade. Neither men nor women wear
clothes, except the small T-bandage of bark-cloth ; some even
go entirely in a state of nature. Where European influence is
beginning to have its modifying effect — and where is it not
now felt in some measure ? — calico coverings such as modesty
demands are worn. They keep in confinement a few birds
occasionally, and a species of dog of moderate size generally
accompanies them. They will scarcely touch water for ablu-
tionary purposes, and have consequently a strong, unpleasant
odour ; and a small stream which they cannot cross by prau
or by stepping-stones is often a barrier to their journey.

On approaching the steps of the hut in which I was living,
my first acquaintances made a bashful salutation with the hand
in the awkward way of children, advancing with open eyes full
of wonder and curiosity more marked in the woman's face than
in her companion's, she being evidently less accustomed to see
other than her own people. They rarely come into the villages,
the villagers always seeking them out in order to buy from
them their forest-gathered produce. The chief who went to
induce them to visit me had to assure them that I did not
wish to make them take up their residence in a village, or to
compel them to cultivate rice fields.

The colour of their skin was a rich olive brown ; while their
hair always in a dishevelled state, was jet black, inclined to
curl. It was certainly less straight than that of the village
Malays, but it may be that this curling is the result of want
of attention, and of its becoming matted and twisted. The
woman's hair was straighter than the men's. Her features were
what I might call Mongolian, in contrast to her companion's,
which I might designate as more conforming to the Malayan
type about them. The child might have been a very dark-
complexioned Italian or a dark Arabian. Her features are re-
presented very truthfully on page 234. Both men had a slight
moustache, and a few hairs on the chin. What struck me most
in them was their extreme submissiveness, their want of inde-

IN SUMATRA. 237

pendence and will ; they seemed too meek ever to act on the
offensive. One cannot help feeling that they are harmless
overgrown children of the woods. Within the memory of the
chief of the village in which I first met these Kubus, have they
only come to possess a sense of shame ; formerly tliey knew
none, and vvere the derision of the villagers into whose neigh-
bourhood they might come.

Rain having fallen very heavily in the north-west hills for
some time, the path across country to the borders of Djambi
was rendered so impassable, that it became necessary for me
to descend the Rupit to its junction with the Rawas river
at Muara Rupit, and then ascend the latter by a road fol-
lowing the river for a great part of the way — a far longer
journey. I had therefore a couple of substantial rafts made,
in one of which I had fitted a covered seat, with a long raised
platform behind it on which to prepare a herbarium, as the
river traversed much virgin forest specimens of which my
mode of travel would enable me to collect and arrange while
sailing down. The river below the village was broad, and,
except at a few places, of considerable depth.

1 started early on the 25th of October, just as the sun
was tipping the trees, streaming through the morning mist
changing it into a golden haze. High overhead the pale
blue of the sky betokened a bright sunny day. The morning
was delightfully fresh and invigorating ; even the phlegmatic
Malay felt it so, for the men who piloted my rafts pranced
on their poles as they shoved along, and when they came to
spots where more vigorous exertion had to be put forth,
they shouted and hallooed in the exuberance of their spirits.
Nothing could be more pleasant than our gentle gliding
down, enjoying without fatigue the ever-varying pictures
presented at each bend of the river — its abrupt corners, its
deep rotating frothy pools ; now the shade of some stupendous
tree, now the shooting an arch of some half-fallen giant
busked with pendant ferns and orchidaceous Vandas. Verv
many trees were in flower and fruit — in fact till then for
several years there had been little blossom — tall Melettias
hung with immense pods, and wihl Nutmeg trees with their
pretty drop-like fruits. Tlie oaks were one mass of white
inflorescense, and formed a characteristic feature of the
17

238 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

vegetation of the banks ; while bushy Sterculiaceous trees
made a greater show of colour in the rich pink of their young
foliage and in the bright scarlet of their fruits than in their
inconspicuous flowers. Between these more outstanding trees,
dark-foliaged figs and slender bamboos gracefully bending over
the bank, filled up the ranks shoulder to shoulder. Tall Sialang
trees, with lightning-conductor-like stairs ujd their white stems,
by which the wild bees' nests are reached, and the Pangiums
bearing GOO to 700 brown velvety fruits each several pounds
in weio-ht, so that one marvels that the branches are able to
sustain the load — marked the vicinity of villages. Here and
there a stately tree which had been left unmolested in their
fields exhibited the grandeur of stem and crown that an
Ancient of the forest can attain unto. Every lifeless stem, to
the very tips of its withered arms was festooned with dark-
foliaged climbers, yellow and purple Pajyilionacese and Con-
volvulacex, like the grotesque shrubbery cut out of boxwood,
but with all the natural grace which is conspicuously wanting
in Dutch gardens. No tree, however, was more abundant or
brighter than the Lagerstroemia, whose fine red tops could be
seen a long way off. Every now and then a creaking sound
came up the water catching the ear like the subdued screech
of a buffalo cart, produced by the monotonous turning of a
laree bamboo waterwheel fixed where the banks of the river
were high, to lift water into the adjacent rice-fields by bamboo
buckets fixed at intervals in a lateral direction to their paddles.
Wat-er birds of many species, and kingfishers in cobalt plu-
mage, were constantly darting about, roused from their hunting
grounds by our passing, many of which were honoured with
a place in my collection. In addition to the ever-changing
forms of the vegetation and the varied bird and insect life that
flitted from side to side, there was no lack of human interest in
the scenes. Now it was a skiff with flashing oars with a
chattering load of women and girls with their baskets on their
way to the fields ; now a village crowd in their many coloured
sarongs, clustered on the rocks or under the shade of some
broad fig to see our flotilla pass by ; here it was a patient
plyer of the gentle art by a rippling bend ; there a crowd of
women in a shingly corner in their broad sun hats and blue
gowns washing the sand for gold.

IN SUM ATS A, 239

The recent rains had produced a flood — the greatest, it was
said, for five years — which had risen from ten to twelve feet
above its ordinary mark. Throughout a distance of from thirty
to forty miles it had carried away pieces of the bank from three
to five yards wide and from eight to ten feet deep. In these
new sections large trees (stems and branches) had become ex-
posed, buried more than six feet below the surface of the sur-
roundino; land. These sections showed the soil resting' on a
deep band of clay, which in turn was lying on a thick stratum
of shingle, which was being again washed out, to be subjected
to fresh attrition after having rested for many cycles. Below
the confluence of the River Tiku, which rises among the Pale-
ozoic rocks in the Redjang region a considerable quantity of
gold is found when the river is very low, caught among the
stones, larger pebbles and sand. This sand is collected — the
occupation mostly of the older women — and, when freed from
the larger particles, goes by the name of hungin ; the bungin
is washed in a broad cone-shaped vessel of wood — the diiJang
— by a rotatory motion, till only an extremely fine heavy black
sand (kalam) is left. The kalam, which contains the gold is
then rotated in the dulang with a little water till tlie heavier
metal falls to the apex of the cone, whence it is carefully
removed. A very successful day's washing in this fashion will
bring only Is. 8cl.

With a halt of one night at the village of Ambatjang, so
called from an old large and symmetrical tree of that name
(Mangifera foetida) growing in the village, then in magni-
ficent blossom, I reached Muara-Rupit at the confluence of
the Rawas river, on the afternoon of the second day. Muara-
Rupit, to the Ulu men from among whom I had come, is a
great place which perhaps some day fate may permit them to
visit. To have been to Muara-Rupit from the Ulu country
is to have gained a certain precedence amongst their tellow
villagers, while to have been to Palembang, a to-and-fro jour-
ney of six weeks, is to have seen the world ! This place is
the seat of a great trade ; everything from the coast for the
Rupit and the country watered by its tributaries, and for the
Rawas and its tributaries up to the Djambi country, is brought
to Muara-Rui)it, whither can come a small steamer able to
carry a company of troops. I was consequently not surprised

240 A NATURALISTS WANDERINGS

on finding a broad, deep river, with a fleet of Palembang praus
at anchor, and of rakits loaded, or lying to be filled up with
gutta-percha, rattan, and buifaloes for the Palembang market.

From Muara-Kupit I proceeded to Surulangun, along a good
road following the Rawas river, under a continuous shade of tall
Durian trees from thirty-five to forty feet high — a growth of ten
years. The road was carpeted throughout its length with their
flowers, which were dropping off in vast numbers. In the flower-
ing time it was a most pleasant shady road ; but later in the
season the chance of a fruit now and then descending on one's
head would be less agreeable.* At every village I passed, I was
respectfully received by the chiefs ; and at several places they
were accompanied by the youths and maidens, who were
formed to right and left of the way attended by a band, while
a table loaded with fruits, sweetmeats and coffee, barred the
road, of which in order to gratify them I had to dismount and
partake. This band played me to the boundaries of the
next village, where another was waiting to convoy us through
their region.

At Surulangun, the residence of Mr. Kamp the genial Magis-
trate of the district, enjoying his bountiful hospitality, and the
companionship of the commandant of a small garrison quartered
there for the protection of the district against the Djambi
people, several most pleasant days were passed. These hostile
neighbours make not infrequent raids on the villages to carry
off their herds, covering their departure by maliciously plant-
ing the roads with short sharp bamboo spikes, invisible till
wounds are received.

Here I had the satisfaction of again examining, through Mr.
Kamp's kind aid, a considerable assemblage of Kubus of both
sexes. Several of them it would have been impossible to tell
from the people of the surrounding villages from their features ;
on the other hand, there were peculiarities scarcely reducible
to words, by which they could have been picked out among
a crowd of Malays. I tried to formulate the differences, but
found myself almost unable to say exactly wherein they con-
sisted. The high (between the eyes) straight dorsum of the

* Of this fruit the natives are passionately fond ; and Mr. Wallace writes
it is worth a vi>yac:e to the East to taste ; and the elephants flock to its shade
in the fiuiting lime ; but, more singular still, the tiger is said to devour it
with aviditv. ■

7i\r SUMATRA. 241

nose in a few was remarkable ; and the sharply prominent
cheek-bones. The villagers asserted that they could tell a
footprint in the mud of a Knbii from that of their own people.
I caused several of them to walk over sheets of paper
after rubbing the soles of their feet with soot, but I could
not discover, either in the shape of the foot or in its print,
any divergence from that of the people about them. The
lips of the Kubus were thin, and the eyes restless and glancing,
as if ever on the alert. The average height of seven males was
1*59 metres, and of five females 1'49 metres, which is about
the average stature of the Malays of Malacca. On comparing
the impress of their hands with those of the peoj^le of the dis-
trict, those of the Kubus I found to be smaller. They are, I
also observed, ratlier subject to reduplication of the fingers.

They are said to have a language of their own unintelligible
to their neighbours, but I failed to induce them to give me
any specimen of it, if it existed. I could not understand their
speech at first ; but after some conversation I could detect
that they really spoke a corrupted Malay with a peculiar
accentuation.

Monogamy is the rule among them ; but a few have two or
more wives. Their nuptial ceremony is a very simple a€air.
The man having fixed his choice on a girl, and obtained
the consent of her parents to his suit, brings to her ftither such
gifts as he has — a knife, a spear, cloths, or money (if he has
any), dammar, and beeswax — and such rare fruits of the forest
or favourite food-animals as may reward his search. When
this gift is satisfactorily large, those who may be within reach
are called together. Seating themselves below a tree, the
father of the maiden informs them that he has given his
daughter So-and-so to So-and-so in marriage. One of the
company then strikes the tree under which they sit several
times with a club, proclaiming them to be man and wife. The
ceremony is followed by such feast as can be provided, princi-
pally out of the fruits and animals the bridegroom has paid
for his wife with.

It is a rare thing for a ^falay man to marry a Kubu woman ;
Vmt it occasionally happens, notwithstanding that they consider
the Kubus far their inh-riors, a position which the latter seem
to accept with very marked submissiveness. "You Kubu!"

242 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

is a term of opprobrium which I have often heard applied by
one native to another with whom he had quarrelled. The
village people consider them little other than beasts. In no
case will a Malay touch or interfere with a dead body of one
of his people ; yet I was able to obtain their assistance in dis-
interring the body of the Kubu from which I made the skeleton
that I obtained. The Kubus possess no personal property of
any kind beyond what they can carry about with them. Their
food, which consists for the most part of wild fruits or small
animals., which they prefer, I am told, in a semi-putrid condition,
they eat as they come by it, with little or no cooking. When
traversing the forest, if one of them, on finding a bee-infested
or a dammar-yielding tree, clear the brush around it, make one
or two hacks in the bark, and repeat a form of spell, it is
recognised by the others as his possession, which will be un-
disputed. This is the only property, if such it may be called,
that they possess.

They are extremely fond of tobacco. Before one of them,
who had seated himself on the edge of the verandah, I pro-
duced some of the coveted weed. It was a study to see how
his face gleamed over, and his eyes followed the parcel with
the eagerness of a dog's after a bone with which he is tempted.
To try him, a handful of very poor quality was offered him,
Avhich he snatched at, but, after smelling and tasting it, he
rejected it with a sneer just as a monkey might have done,
fixing his eyes eagerly once more on the bundle first produced.
Some of this was handed to him, the whole of which, after
smelling, he rolled into a thick cigarette in a leaf, and smoked
with prodigious mouthfuls in perfect and delighted silence.
When he saw or was offered anything which he liked par-
ticularly, his eyes sparkled, and he expressed his eagerness
by the continued repetition of a peculiar sound, " S-s-ho-o !
S-s-ho-o I " Some fruit and a large plateful of rice, offered
to him, were devoured more in the ravenous manner of a beast
than of a man. When he had finished it he rubbed his stomach,
to judge by its rotundity if he had had sufficient.

Their intelligence is not, however, to be called of a low order.
They evince considerable dexterity in the use of their sjiears,
and are wonderfully accurate marksmen with stones. They
post themselves behind some tree, in front of which is another

IN SUMATRA. 24 J

whereiu birds are lodged, and thence discharge the stone over
the one that hides them, so as to drop on the bird in the other.
When sick they nse various leaves from which they make
decoctions ; but their curative pharmacopoeia is very limited.
I could not discover that they knew many poisons, but they
were best acquainted with such plants as possessed aphrodisiac
qualities, or were able to cause abortion.

In their truly wild state they leave their dead unburied in
the spot where they died, giving the place ever after a wide
berth; but where the influence of the villao;e customs has
begun to affect them, the body is now generally buried face
downward, with a strip of bark below and above the body.
They seem to have no idea of a state after death : " When we
are dead, we are dead."

They have a tradition that they are the descendants of the
younger of three brothers : the two elder were circumcised in
the usual Avay : the younger it was found no instruments would
circumcise, a circumstance which so ashamed him that he
betook himself to the woods to live, and " We are his descend-
ants," they told me.

Leading so nomadic a life, the jurisdiction that can be
exercised by any one over them can be but very slight. Such
as it is, it is wielded by the elders of the party, who settle
disputes that arise between man and man, and impose punish-
ments for offences.

It will be seen that the Kubus differ much in their habits
and ways of life from those about them ; but whether they are
the last survivors of their race, or are only a straggling rem-
nant, kin to those about them, who at some past time were
driven from below the family rooftree to save their lives in the
forest fastness, and who, even when persecution has ceased, yet
cling to the shade of those pillars which in their need afforded
them the kindly refuge they sought, are questions on which
the osteological evidence must be appealed to. Dr. G arson
finds that the antero-posterior length in comparison to the
transverse breadth of the brim in my Kubu woman's pelvis is ex-
treme ; " indeed I have never," he remarks, " seen or measured
a pelvis of so exaggerated a type, approaching in form nearly
to that of the anthropomorphous apes; the great antero-
posterior length of this specimen is due chiefly to the straight-

244

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

ness of the sacrum. The index also obtained by comparison
of the upper and lower limbs with each other is 70 (the latter
being taken as lOU). This high index shows an approximation
in the proportions of the limbs of the Kubus to those of the
anthropoid apes, and indicates that the length of the upper
limb is considerably greater in proportion than that of the
lower as compared to what obtains in Europeans. In the
Negro and the Andamanese, on the other hand, the upper
limb is proportionately to the lower shorter than in Europeans.
" Unfortunately the number of Kubu skulls obtained is not

. V\

1^.

i\

A KUBU MAX, AND -WOJIAX, SKETCHED IN THE TILLAGE OF SURULANGTIN.

sufficiently large to justify very definite statements regarding
them, though I think sufficient to answer one question which
presents itself to us for solution, namely, as to what race the
Kubus are allied — whether they possess Negrito or Malayan
affinities. The character of the hair, the form of the nose, the
various characters of the skull, and the proportion of the lirab-
l)ones show that they cannot have any near affinity to the
Negrito race found in various parts of the Indo-Malayan
Archipelago, but that they are decidedly Malays, and therefore
Mongoloid. The high nasi-malar angle, the high and broad

IN SUMATRA. 245

face, the flat forehead, owing to absence of all glabellar and
superciliary ridges, the slight sub-glabellar nasal depressions,
and the nomadic life they lead, are all highly characteristic of
the Mongolian race,

" The frizzle in the hair seen in the drawings on pages 234
and 244 is probably to be accounted for by their having at
some remote period intermingled slightly with the Negrito
people, possibly during their migration southward. There is,
however, evidence that they have for a long period been iso-
lated from the other surrounding inhabitants of the island,
and that by absence of infusion of fresh blood they have come
to resemble one another so closely that they now possess
certain definite characteristics of a more or less stable nature."

From the prison the Magistrate brought a thief who was
waiting to be sentenced, on whom on his apprehension there
had been found a bag with the chief paraphernalia of his trade,
in order that he might explain to me their use. In it was a
bunch of kevs of various sizes, a little sack with rice-brains for
alluring fowls ; a package of arsenic for more subtle bipeds ; a
tube of soporific powder, whose recipe he was confiding enough
to give me : Take of the Gadung (a species of Arum whose un-
cooked roots induce a sort of intoxication) a few scrapings of
the skin where the stem joins the tuber ; of white Katjuhung
(Datura) the seeds of seven fruits ; the excreta of seven mice ;
of arsenic a sufficient quantity. When dried, pounded, and
sifted through a cloth, to be thrown on the rice, or into the
cigarette of the victim, or to be blown towards him as occasion
offers. The thief admitted that he had tried its efiects and.
produced sleep on two men, and stolen from them many cloths
and gold dust to the value of several hundred rupees. In
addition to the somniferous compound there were two other
tubes of "medicine," one for curing pain in the stomach, the
other a bright scarlet substance like vermilion which was a
deadly poison, he said, producing vomiting of blood, followed
by a terrible and incurable cough, if death did not at once
supervene. Its composition he did not know ; he had bought
it in the Djambi country. In order, however, that its virtue
should not be lost it required to be set near the heart of a
V)UiTalo or of a fowl at frequent intervals. It had besides the
valuable characteristic of preventing any harm from poison to

246 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the person who carried it about with him. The bag con-
tained, besides, three calendars of different forms — the thief's
ephemeris — for computing the day and hour at which success
or failure would follow the enterprises of his interesting and
exciting profession.

The people of the Eawas are of more open, lively and enlight-
ened character than those I had anywhere encountered. The
women had less of the bashful and timid disposition of Malays
of their sex, and were inclined to be talkative and gay, without
forwardness or want of respect — altogether a more likeable
people than any other in the Residency.

During my stay at Surulangun there occurred one of the
high Moslem feast-days, on which it is a custom of the chiefs
to come to express — " inasmuch as it is a day of congratulation
among ourselves" — their good-will and wishes towards the
Government and the person of the Magistrate. Accordingly
the chiefs of the nearer villages, along with a large company,
attired in their best, came to the residence of Mr. Kamp, who
(attended by the Commandant and myself) received them in
the verandah on to which they filed, with a respectful salaam,
to a seat in Oriental fashion. After a few minutes, to allow
every one to become still, the chief of the marga rose ; and I
shall not soon forget the grace and dignity of his manner and
bearing and his perfect self-possession and composure. Making
a distinct and separate bow first to the Magistrate (the ruler
of the region and representative of the Government), next to
myself (the stranger and bis guest) and then to the military
Commandant — the order which the etiquette of the occasion
made very proper, and most becoming — he made a long
speech to the Magistrate perfect both in expression and in
courtly demeanour, and then addressed us in turn. The
phrases made use of — many of them, in the Malay language,
extremely terse — to express their own goodwill to the Govern-
ment were loyal, honourably submissive and hearty, and those
in which they acknowledged the benefits of good government,
and the just and mild administration of the Magistrate himself,
were most courtly and affectionate. To myself terms, aptly
chosen, were used to signify their pleasure at my visit to their
country, their sincere wishes that I might enjoy it, and the
assurances of their utmost hospitality and good-will. The

IN SUMATRA. 247

words addressed to the Commandant were very appropriate to
the commission he held in the district. Altogether it was a
specimen of the Malay at his best, as a courtier and a gentle-
man ; and (to me) a most interesting exhibition of the ele-
gance, the politeness and dignity, which are characteristic of
their race.

The dances in vogue are, like themselves, quite different from
those in other districts ; they are of several forms, are more
lively and are danced with much spirit, some of them having a
likeness to European performances, especially one where the
dancer in her evolutions balances on her head, shoulders and
hands lighted tapers, reminding one of the German Hugel-
hupftanz.

Fig. 1. Fig. 2.

FLOWER OP CrUCUMA ZEUUMBET. — A, PROCE-S OF THE AXTHER ; B, TUBERCLE OF THE
ANTHER ; C, anther; D, the stigma. fig. 1, THE FLOWER SHOWING ITS ORGANS
IN THEIR NORMAL CONDITION ,' FIG. 2, WHEN BEING VISITED BY A BOMBUS.

The region about Surulangun is one of great interest, as it
lies on the borders of that little-known forest stretching towards
Redjang and Djambi. Among the birds found here I obtained
the Falseornis longicauda, with its metallic-green crown, pink
head and black-ringed neck, one of the most chastely-coloured
of the parrots. They used to collect in the highest trees in the
neighbourhood, and were exceedingly difficult to shoot. In a
tree near to that occupied by the parrots a species of bee-eater
{^lerops sumatranus) flocked in such thousands that as they
congregated in the evenings they seemed like swarms of bees,
and the hum of their wings could be heard a long way off. By
the roads liere were some magnificent fig-trees and Biptero-
carpeiB. In the low forest a common species of the Ginger

248 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINOS

family {Curcuma zerumhet) abounded ; but in gathering it, I
observed that it was provided with one of the many contrivances
for securing cross-fertilisation which are so interesting to the
botanist, and give such intense pleasure to his contemplation
of even the commonest flowers. The flower-stem terminates
in a head of rich pink leaf-like organs called spathes, which
supply a brilliant alluring mass of colour to the rather incon-
spicuous, odourless, though largish white flowers ; the j^istil, or
organ for receiving the fructifying pollen from the stamens,
passes through a hole in the conjoint anther, and its head
is protected by a hood in the perianth from all insects and
intruders which are not large enough to convey its pollen to
another flower. When, however, there enters a bee or other
insect large enough to fill the mouth of the flower, it comes in
contact with the processes a, projecting from the lower margin
of the compound anther, which act precisely as a lever, for
when these are pushed backward by the bee pressing in, in
quest of the nectar at the bottom of the flower, the anther is
rotated, carrying with it the stigma or top of the pistil on to the
back of the insect in the most beautiful manner. A bee that
presses the long appendages of the anther, may rotate down
the anther so as to carry away pollen on its back, but it will
not fertilise the flower unless it is large enough to rotate the
composite anther sufiiciently far to bring the little tubercles, h,
also on to its back, the pressure of which alone rotates the
pistil tip on to the bee's back. It is evident that the pistil
can never come into contact with the pollen of its own floret,
nor can any floret be fertilised unless the insect has entered
fully into a former flower, and smeared its back with a patch of
pollen of some lengthy as long at least as the interval between
the anther appendages and the pistil.

As the fertilising insect even beo-ins to back out the lever
apparatus is instantly released, and the summit of the jjistil
completely returns into the security of its hood.

When once fertilised the stamens thicken in their central
part and, contracting in a corkscrew fashion, draw the perianth
v^ith the stamens and pistil to the bottom of the spathe out of
harm's way and to make room for the next floret. Mr. Darwin
has drawn attention to the likeness of the Scitamiyiese in the
relation of their essential organs to those of the Orcliidacese, and

IN SUMATRA. 249

few examples perhaps could exhibit this simikwity more than
the one under notice ; its pollen moreover being less friable
than that in most species of its family, and singuhirly viscid.

I could have spent many months investigating the natural
history of this district, but, time being short, I pressed on to
reach Muara Mengknlem, whence I hoped to be able to make
an expedition into the Djambi Lands. Using his great influ-
ence with its chiefs, the Pangeran of the Rawas might be able
to obtain entrance for a white man not a Hollander, of whose
entrance the Sultan was naturally extremely jealous and
afraid. From Surulangun the road kept by the north side of
the Rawas river, to the halfway village of Pulau Kida, near
which is the boundary between the diluvium of recent age
and the Palaeozoic strata, which, extending away north-west to
Limun, contains the auriferous rocks which have made that
country famous for the quality and colour of its gold. I passed
many people washing the earth of the high banks of the river ;
and at a spot some sixty feet above its present bed, opposite
where it is obstructed by a cataract a mile and a half in length,
I saw an ancient mine of the natives. Late in the afternoon
we reached Muara Mcngkulem.

250 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER YIII.

SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG EESIDENCY — COnUnued.

Muara Mengkulem — Refused entrance into the Djambi Sultanate — Xapal
Litjin — Peak of Karang-nata — Geological formation — Botanical features
■ — Birds — nemi[)teron milked by ants — llakit life — Bipin-telok — V. ater
roads — An escape Irom rirowning — Pau — Paver squall — Approach to
Palembang— River life and its massive joy — The town of Palembang —
Return to Batavia.

On arriving at Muara Mengkulem I was bitterly disappointed
to hear from the Pangeran that he considered it extremely
improbable that the Panghulus of Djambi (all the chiefs of
the villages in Djambi are priests, the people being bigoted
Mahomedans) would consent to my traversing their country,
as there was a great deal of fighting going on in the interior.
He, however, consented to send a messenger to those among
them who were his friends at Bukit-bulan five miles distant,
explaining who I was and for what object I wished to visit their
country, to which after an interval of some days a reply was
brought, that though personally favourable to me they could
not be. surety for my safety, and advised me not to attempt to
enter without the mandate of the Sultan, meaning not the
Sultan recognised by the Dutch Government, but the prcA'ious
deposed ruler, who had taken up his court in the interior of
the country and whom all the Djambi people recognised.
This was very disappointing, but I had fared no worse than
the Dutch Mid-Sumatra expedition, which, two years before,
had been advised to turn back at that same place. I proceeded
a stage still farther up the river to Napal Litjin, my farthest
northern station, a very picturesque village at the foot of
another of those nearly perpendicular limestone peaks of which
I have made mention more than once, as lying on the eastern
outskirts of the Barisan runce.

IN SUMATRA. 251

The ascent of the Karang-nata, as the principal peak is
called, was by no means easy, as its white cliffs — which from
below glinted prettily through the vegetation — were almost
perpendicular, and had to be scrambled up by digging one's
finders and toes well into the crevices. It has several caves full
of stalactites, one especially being of great dimensions, whose
numerous chambers were tenanted by thousands of bats, whose
stiflino; o-uano-like odour met me half-wav down. The hill is
composed of a broad band of crystalline limestone bedded-
between Devonian slates tilted up on edge, which at the base
of the hill run under the diluvium of the Palembang Plain.
The larger cave is in its interior quite protected from the severe
effects of the weather, but it bears evident traces of what must,
I think, be attributed to sea erosion. The summit is a vast
rockery of disjointed blocks, with trees growing in the crevices,
their stems, as well as the crannies and faces of the rocks,
loaded with ferns anl orchids {Ctelogyne, spp.) bearing trosses
of flowers more than a yard in length ; with various species of
Me'astoma exhibiting bright flowers or pink fruits, but princi-
pally with a shrubby species, in great profusion, of Cijrtandrese,
having a flower of a rich purple-blue colour, which to my great
satisfaction I perceived to belong to a new species, which I
liave named Boea Treuhii* and probably to a new genus of
that beautiful family. During the ten days — to my regret all
the time I could spare — of my stay in this region I made
large additions — some 200 species — to my herbarium among
the specimens of trees, one being a species of nutmeg with
fruit as large as the largest orange.

Here, too, I noticed a singular case of ants milking a winged
Hemipteron, which of course could not be kept in captivity,
as they do many species of the wingless aphides. The
Hemipteron sat quietly, evidently enjoying the operation, and
at frequent intervals discharged a drop of matter, which was
eagerly sipped up by the ants.

1 have alrea<ly spoken of the great beauty of the riverside
vegetation coming down the Kupit which ran through a
less great forest than that between Napal Litjin and Muara

* So named in honour of Dr. Melchior Trenh, the esteemed Director of the
Botanical Gardens in Buitcnzdrg, to whose kind aid and intiuei.ce I owed
much during .ny stay in tha Archipelago.

252 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINOS

Mengkulem, which is perfectly virgin and is perhaps of
as vast an age as the period which has elapsed since the
beginning of the upraising of the 180 miles of country that
now separates it from the sea. The display of flower and fruit
along the Rawas river was still finer, and, in fact, it could
scarcely have been richer. Wliile Oak-trees in full blossom
characterised the Rupit, Bipterocarpese, the family which gives
us the Camphor-tree and supplies a great deal of the dammar
of commerce, and some of which are among the tallest of
trees, were along the Rawas the distinguishing feature — though
clumps of oak were plentiful enough too — the brilliant pink
and rose coloured " wings " that adorn their ripening fruits
having the appearance of tassels hanging from the tips of
the branches all over their immense crowns. Over some
of the highest trees, and spread continuously across the forest
for hundreds of yards at a stretch, was a Leguminose climber
{Bavhinia) with rich orange and scarlet flowers. Blue fishing-
hawks {Polisetus liumiUs) sat in motionless watch on the
projecting limbs of trees ; Rhinoceros birds (Anthracocerus
convexus and Rhytidoceros suhrnficollis) clambered on tlie fruit-
laden fig-trees, conspicuous by the rich colour of their beaks
— derived from the oil-gland at the tail in B. rhinoceros.
Herons and Bitterns hunted in the sandy bends, kingfishers
flew out from every corner, and flocks of sand-plovers zig-
zagged away with a-frightened scream as we passed along ;
while on the projecting stones on the river, black cormorants
(Phalocracorax) eagerly watched for their finny prey, and
flocks of pure white egrets displayed to advantage their spot-
less plumage against the dark foliage of the tops of the trees.
On my return to Muara Mengkulem, I had at once to prepare
to start for the coast. While I was packing up I sent down men
to Pulau-kida, the village below the cataract, to construct for
me a Rakit in which to travel to Palembang. In these large
house-like structures — floated on bamboo rafts — the whole
produce of the up regions of the river are conveyed to the coast
markets. Mine, however, while resembling the trade Rakit in
appearance, was fitted up with much regard to comfort, for I
intended the remainder of my Sumatra journey to be a pleasure
trip. On a raft 40 feet long and 1 5 wide, made of the largest
bamboos seven or eight tiers deep, was erected a neat house, sur-

IN SUMATRA. 253

rounded on all sides by a platform under tlieshade of the roof.
I divided it into a writing room and sleeping chamber in front,
and a store for my collections and a dormitory for my servants
behind. Behind this was another long raft slightly narrower,
floored with earth on which a trellis frame- work stood, and
the whole housed over. On this earthen floor a fire was
continually kept burning to dry the bundles of herbarium laid
on the trellis-work over it.

I had looked forward with intensest pleasure to this mode of
travel, and it was therefore with extreme satisfaction that, on
the 27th of November, 1881, 1 arrived from Muara Mengkulem
and took possession of my floating home. Inside, I lined
my sitting-room with white cotton cloth, hung a few drawings,
photographs, and trophies about the walls, fixed my table,
and laid out my books and the implements of my profession.
The outside I hung round profusely with living orchids, sonie
of them in magnificent flower. Next morning, full of the most
buoyant feelings, I loosed its cable and let it glide ofl" down the
Rawas River, along a great avenue broken at distant intervals
only by gambir gardens and factories of Catechu.

All the villages along the river had been informed of my
coming, and on notifying my approach by the beating of a
gong, a complement of rowers — more properly of pilots— came
off in small boats and relieved their fellows of the villa^'o
above. In the upper reaches of the river it required 16 pilots
to guide this long flotilla — whose duty it was to keep the
stern of the Rakit straight to the stream especially at corners
and rapids, by pulling on loijg fixed lever-like oars at stem and
stern, whicli they worked standing. All day long I collected
plants from the river banks, by means of a light shift', as the
stream moved very slowly, anchoring each night under some
creat tree bv the marijin.

After a seven days' journey I halted for a more prolonged
stay at the village of Bigin-telok, to make some closer
acquaintance with the flora of the flatter lands which began
there. It was then the wet season, and the surrounding country
was under water for miles from the river bank, and botan-
ising from a boat was a curious experience ; for after entering
some side stream a little way, all distinction of stream or
no stream was lost, and I could simplv sail about among
18

254 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the trees in any direction I wished, but such work required
the attendance of a good guide. Jambus (Jamhosa spp.)
seemed to be among the most common trees, and their long
white stamened flowers, falling on the water, glided down the
stream like so many stars. The whole surface of the water
was covered, absolutely in a close sheet, with petals, fruits
and leaves, of innumerable species. In placid corners some-
times I noted a collected moss nearly half a foot deep, among
which, on examination, I could scarcely find a leaf that was
perfect, or that remained attached to its rightful neighbour,
so that were they to become imbedded in some soft muddy
spot, and in after ages to reappear in fossil form, they would
afford a few difficult puzzles to the Palaeontologist, both to
separate and to put together.

In many of these places the water reached to the great
depth of 60 and 70 feet, and swarmed with crocodiles.
While shooting one day on such a spot, from a small skiff
capable of holding only myself and the man who oared it, I
fired at a bird among some stranded logs, and the recoil of my
gun, perched as I was on the tip of the prau, overbalanced
me into the water. Had not at the moment of falling my
left hand unconsciously caught the side of the boat, I should
have fared ill, for I had instinctively clutched my fowling-
piece, and was besides wearing a pair of heavy shooting boots.
My weight on the side would have capsized the skiff had not
my rower righted it by a self-preservatory act, which drew my
head out of the water, when I scrambled into the boat. The
poor fellow was utterly paralysed with terror, and presented so
comical a countenance that I could not help laughing at him.
He would scarcely allow me to move again in the boat, and
had I not used threats, he would have paddled me back to the
village without waiting even to pick up the bird I had shot.
" What would have awaited me," he moaned in a most com-
plaining tone, as if I had jumped into the river to bring woe
on him, " if I had rowed you out and returned without you ?
The whole village," he sobbed, the tears actually appearing on
his eyelids, " would not have been able to pay the blood-money
for you, and I should never have been able to stay any longer
there." Not a word escaped him as to my feelings on encoun-
tering a crocodile. He was evidently relieved of the heaviest

IN SUMATRA. 255

responsibility he liad ever borne when he deposited me ao-ain
on my own Eakit.

Some of the trees which were growing near the mouth of
the side streams, could the forty or fifty feet of water in which
they stood have been removed to show them from their roots
upwards, must have been stupendous specimens of arboreal
vegetation. I gathered a slender species of Pandan (P. helio-
copus), standing above the water to a height of thirty to thirty-
five feet, where the water measured between forty-five and fifty
feet, giving seventy to eighty feet for its true height. Here
I caught, in the act of swimming across the river, a lovely little
Carnivore [Linsang gracilib), one of the most beautiful of its
race, which, though I kept alive for a long time, never, to my
regret, became very tame, and therefore did not gain in my
affection the place that its beauty deserved, which was given
to another member of my menagerie, the curious crepuscular
honey-stealing Malay Bear.

My next halting place was tne village of Pan, situated a little
below the junction of the water of the Rawas region with the
Musi which comes past Tebbing-tinggi, a celebrated prau
building depot doing a great trade with Palembang. These
boats, from six to seven feet in breadth, are made from a
single tree stem, out of which no one not acquainted with the
manner of their construction, on seeing it newly felled, would
believe that a boat of these dimensions could possibly be
made. When the stem has been partially excavated, fires arc
kindled in the hollow, and bars of wood changed at intervals
for longer ones, are forced in crosswise to separate the sides.
The greatest possible care is necessary in this operation, as
the heat often at the very last will start a knot, or crack the
log, rendering all their work of months useless. A jierfect
pantjalan, therefore, costs a large sum.

Pleasant as " rakiting " was, it had its perils, for where the
river widened out greatly and decreased in current, the wind
blowing across the stream rendered navigation very dangerous.
About 100 miles above I'alembang (and 150 from the sea)
we were caught in a heavy squall of wind and rain in the night
time, which simply took the entire control of our rather
unwieldy vessels. 8o intensely dark was the night that we had
no idea, except when a momentary gleam of lightning lit up

256 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the scene, in what direction we were being borne, and we spent
several hours of great anxiety lest we should be driven on one
of the many sunken tree stems with which the river was
studded.

Four days sail below Pan and past the confluence of the
Lamatang. with its complement of water and commerce from
Lahat and Muara Enim, we found ourselves in the midst of
growing signs of approach to a great centre of activity, making
up for the monotony of the landscape through which we had
for a day or two been travelling ; for the low banks had shut
out all view, and their distance on both sides, so broad was
the river, had precluded me from identifying their vegetation.
Large Palembang praus bright in scarlet or blue decorations,
began to be met in little fleets, being laboriously poled up
stream close under the banks out of the current ; and every little
Avhile a gay skiif, propelled by two or three flashing oars, would
enliven and glide athwart the picture, and disappearing again
leave us to our plodding way. In the almost dead water we
overtook and were overtaken in turn by numberless Rakits,
single or in immense strings of from twenty to thirty made
fast one behind the other, often nearly half a mile in length,
and broad rafts hundreds of yards in length, mostly of laurel
wood, for the cabinet makers for whom Palembang is famous.

At sundown on the 20th of December I moored, not far
from the confluence of the Ogan, which brings to the capital
the tribute of Muara-dua and Batu-radja, in sight of Palem-
bang, amid a curious scene. Below my Rakit there stretched
away to a great distance a broad unbroken plain of log rafts,
on which a large population of men, women, and children was
encamped ; some were under the shelter of a few palm-leaf mats,
others, detected by the light playing, on their faces, crouched in
small groups here and there round little flres, the whole, in the
dying light of the still evening, forming a rather weird scene.

It was indeed with feelings of regret that I found I had
arrived within sight of the end of a journey Avhich will always
remain in my memory as one of the deepest enjoyments of my
life. Crowned by the last month of river-life, with its varying
impressions and sensations, it had been full of the intensest
gratification, and still is when I recall that long panorama-
like picture.

IN SUMATRA. 2bl

To recall the magnificent flora of the upper reaches of the river
almost makes me retract the statement that the tropics present
few flowers ; for so blossom-spangled a road it would be difficult
to match anywhere;— it is only in the beginning of the wet
season, however, and along the steep banks of sorfie such
river, wide enough to let in the sunlight and the free breath
of heaven, that one must look for, or indeed expect to be
able to see such a display. The singular trackless streets,
roads, and paths of water by which I rambled among the
forest avenues are never to be forgotten reminiscences ; nor
lower down the slow majesty of the widening river between
its level banks fronted with tall reeds, dark-foliaged figs, and
groves of Eriodendron trees, with their stiff trifid arms ; and
at last the broad expanse of its united affluents by whose
sources I had for so many months encamped, drawing towards
itself the atoms of produce of two degrees of latitude, and
concentrating them into a hot nucleus of commercial life and
activity. Intermingled with all these memories are a thousand
indescribable vignettes ; miniatures of quaint nooks and sandy
bays, and embossed villages, of out-of-the-world ways and
habits and customs, of the intermittent comers and goers ; of
the changing features of the river's face itself in wind and
rain, in early morning or noonday sun, in evening shades,
under the pale moon, and in the solemn silence of the
darkness. Surveyed from my window in the intervals of
occuj)ation, or seated under the verandah in the cool evenings,
this changing landscape of days and days (so placid and
imperceptible was to me the motion of our gliding down,
and so full of that exhilarating relief from labour and
fatigue) seemed to move past my eyes of its own accord, and
afl'orded me a continued and massive sensation of delight
that nothing could disturb, and which can be but faintly
conceived by those who have not experienced this uncommon
mode of travel which is absolutely different from that by any
other water-carriage.

My very last stage, however, was through, perhaps, as un-
wonted a scene as I may ever look on ; it was an eight hours' sail
through the city of Palembang itself, which is certainly one of
the curiosities of the East. Throwing off from our anchorage
about eight o'clock in the morning, we slid down betv/eea miles

258 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

and miles of log-rafts moored to the banks, packed close
together forming an immense pavement, with an abundant
population ; then on each side Rakits large and small, in all
positions — sideways, lengthwise, crossways, choke-a-block, as if
the river had swept away a village or two and stranded them
there anyhow — ^to which a continuous stream of little skiffs were
constantly bringing the dealers in the different products, who
might be seen in little knots on the steering stages discussing
terms over siri and betel. Anxious to make advantageous
terms, eager traders were shooting past on a several days' jour-
ney up stream to meet expected and valuably loaded Rakits,
which, if large and freighted witli dammar, gum elastic, gutta-
percha, will cost as much as £500. As no bamboo grows near
Palembang, and none of the larger sorts nearer than the
sources of the river, the Rakit itself is an eager subject of
barter, and always fetches a sum which largely remunerates
the cost of its building and transport the whole length of the
river. Seaward from this heterogeneous collection, which was
not permitted to pass beyond the upper boundaries of the town
to clog its avenues, I entered Palembang proper, a single row
of cabins on each bank, with their faces to the river, built on
immense log rafts which stretched out in front of them as a
broad platform, forming their landing stage and approach —
on one side the Malay portion of the town, on the other the
Chinese shops and abodes — the whole rising and falling
many feet with every tide. Everywhere innumerable little
boats flashed about over the bright sunlit water, here with
a woman in a blue tunic and a deep scarlet head- cloth calling
out her store of fruits ; there, propelled by urgent arms
conveying the busy merchant ; and from a hidden corner
where it had been lying in wait, would dart out, like a spider
from its lair, some other jn'au, and lassoing a slowly passing
log would pull in again with an item of livelihood gleaned
from the flotsam harvest which the river was continually
brino-in<T: down.

At length a bend of the river brought me in sight of the
European and official quarter of the city situated on the
northern bank, opposite which lay at anchor, steamers and
vessels of many rigs, all looking gigantic to my eyes, unac-
customed for so many months to such a sight. Slowly

IN SUMATRA. 259

floating down the river, I moored, with the Kesident's* per-
mission, opposite the Residency stairs. Instantly a curious
crowd that never dispersed during the whole of my stay,
lined the bank to see and discuss the unusual flotilla, which on
my arrival presented a singularly picturesque appearance, as
the entire exterior of my Rakit was one mass of blossoms from
the orchids suspended round it, and its cargo of plants, skins,
living birds, and Honey-bears, and the beautiful little Linsang
formed an unwonted shipment.

Palembang, the capital of the Residency, contains a great
population of from 50,000 to 60,000 souls, of Arab, Chinese,
Javanese and Malays. They speak the Malay language inter-
mixed with much Javanese, and write it either in Arabic or
Javanese characters. It is the seat of a great export and
import trade with Batavia, Singapore, Siam, and China, and is
famed for its manufacture of furniture, especially of laquer
work, made by Chinese brought for the purpose from their own
country by rich Palembang-Chinese artificers, and for the weav-
ing of rich sarongs of silk interwrought with gold into most
elegant designs. Everywhere one perceived signs of business
and activity, but I saw none so eager for employment as the
ferry-boat men, who at the various landing-places screamed
themselves hoarse at every approaching passenger, crying up
the special qualities of their boats, and the generously low-
sum for which they A\ould condescend to ferry one over, and
then Avith sarcastic jokes and laughter falling to upbraid and
praise the successful ferryman and his boat ; they might have
been Egyptian donkey drivers or English omnibus conductors,
who had changed their skin and their occupation, rather than
staid IMalays.

The most important buildings arc the combined palace and
barracks of the Sultans built in 1780 by, as report goes, a
Europciin, a strong, massive edifice surrounded by a stone
rampart in whicli now the garrison is quartered ; the elegant
house of the Resident, looking out on the river from a little
distance back; the Chinese Joss-house, and the IMosquo floored
with marble, and having a minaret 100 feet high. It is nearly
150 years of age ; but it certainly looks better at a little distance

* At that lime, the ilistiaguishcd and urbane ofllccr, Mr. Lngin.; Tobias,
afterwards Governor of Achecn.

.>260 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

off than at close quarters. Besides these, a little way from
the town, are the tombs of the Sultans, where many of the
devout go to pray ; but perhaps the most interesting and
curious to the Western visitor — a spot held in the utmost
veneration by the Palembangers^ — is the grave of SeJcandar
Alam, or Alexander the Great, whom the Sultans and most
of the chiefs of Palembang claim as their illustrious fore-
.Jfather. .

In the neighbourhood of the Government offices stands the
market, which — as are many of the houses, esjjecially those of
the. Chinese shop-keepers — is substantially built of stone, a
material which along with iron-wood, was during the reign of
the Sultans forbidden to all save members of the Koyal house
as a building material.

On Sunday, the 25th December, twelve months from my
starting from the mouth of the Semangka Kiver, I sailed for
I^atavia, and the last pictures of Sumatra that I recall are the
heavinof and surgino- in the troubled water of our screw of the
floating dwellings on both banks as far as the eye could reach
to what seemed their imminent destruction, attended by the
overthrow from the gaping and closing of tlie log platforms
of the children at their play (some of them actually into the
river), their ineffectual scrambling to regain their footing,
and the attempts of their more unconcerned elders to retain
theirs on the unstable foundations of their home— in some
aspects a very ludicrous scene ; and the interminable stretch
of nipa-palms that cover, in a low dense forest, the watery
uninhabitable mud-flats that extend for fifty miles from the
city to the sea.

After making a short call at Muntok in Banka, between
which and Sumatra a jilateau covered by only three fathoms of
water exists, I was landed on the 27th of the month in Batavia,
where I at once set about my preparations for an extended
journey to the less civilised islands in the Far East of the
A.rchipelago.

IN SUMATRA. 2G1

APPENDIX TO PAET III.

I.— ON THE OSTEOLOGICAL CHAEACTEKS OF THE
KUBUS OF SUMATRA.

By J. G. Garson, M.D., F.Z.S., IMemb. Anthrop. Inst.; Eoyal Col. Surg.
Eng. ; Lecturer ou Comparative Anatomy, Charing Cross Hospital.

The osteological remains of the Kubus of Sumatra, placed in my hands for
examination by Mr. H. 0. Forbes, consisted of the skeleton of a female and
a single skull, also tliat of a female, which are now in the possession of the
British Museum. Both specimens were those of adults of middle age.

The height of seven males (measured by Mr. Forbes) averaged 1569 mm.,
or almost exactly the same as that of adult Englishwomen (1592 mm.),
Avhile the average height of the five females was 1493 mm. ; the difference
between the stature of the male and female Kubus is theiefore 103 mm.
The height of the skeleton jjlaced in my hands, estimated from the length
of the femur, is J 450 mm., which, allowing for the soft parts existing in
the living body, would indicate the stature of this individual to be about
the average of the females measured by Mr. Forbes.

Characters of the SkiiU.

Cranium.— The appearance presented by the drawings taken from
life by Mr. Forbes shows that the skull is of moderate length, somewhat
narrow transver.sely in the region of the forehead, and flat in the glabella
and superciliary regions: the malars are prominent, the nose becomes
gradually elevated towards the tip, its contour following a wide arc: the
"chin is narrow but not pointed; the lips arc thick and jirominent, and
the hair is straight with a tendency to curl.

Turning to the skulls we arc at once struck by the strong resemblance
they bear to one another in pcncral appearance, the only difference
ob.servable being that that belonging to the skeleton is somewhat larger
generally than the other. This resemblance between the two skulls is
confirmed by an examination of the princijial measurements, Avluch arc
given in the annexed table. The maximum length of the one is 174 mm.,
and of the other 173 mm., while their maximum breadth is 135 mm. and
136 mm. respectivelv. These measurements give a ce])halic index to the
one of 77-6, and to the other of 780, which y.laces them in tl;e mefate-
cephalic gi-oup of Flower, and of the Frankfurter Yerstcndiiing.

The altitudinal index (the ratio of the basio-bregmatic height to the
maximum length) diifers somewhat in the the two skulls, that belong-
ing to the skeleton being considerably higher than the other; but in
neither instance does the height exceed the breadth.

The general form of the cranium, as seen in the norma verticalis, is

262 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

narrow in front, the sides straight and gradually diverging to the parietal
eminences, which are situated near the posterior border of the parietal
bones. The ditferences in the broadening out of the cranium from the
anterior frontal to the parietal regions in the two skulls is well seen by
comparing the relation of the minimum and maximum frontal breadths
of each with their respective maximum breadth, this latter being taken
as 100. In the skull belonging to the skeleton, which we will designate
as No. 1, the indices are 67"4, 7y"2, and 100; in the other skull, which avo
will call No. 2, they are 64, 77-2, and 100. The glabellar region is flat and
smooth, corresponding to outline No. 0 of Broca in skull No. 1, and to
No. 1. in skull No. 2; superciliary lidges are entirely ab.«ent. The fore-
head rises somewhat vertically to the level of the fiontal eminences
(which are not prominent), and then slopes backwaids and ujiwards till
it attains its maximum, which is situated in the parietal region. Viewed
from the noi-ina frontalis, the arch of the top of the cranium is markedly
flat, giving the Stephanie region a somewhat angular appearance. In the
parieto-occipital region the contour of the cranium falls with a moderate
curve towards the foramen magnum. The general surface of the cranunn
is smooth, and tlie muscular ridges are little j^ronounced. The mastoid
processes are feebly developed.

The sutures are very simple in No. 2, but somewhat more complicated
in No. 1, though still simple; those in the former being represented by
Broca's outlines of complication of sutures No. 2 for the fron to-parietal,
and No. 3 for the parieto-occipital suture, the latter by No. 2 — 3 for the
frontoparietal, and No. 4 for the parieto-occipital. Wormian bones are
not present in either skull. In No. 2 the sutures are more open than in
No. 1,* in which the coronal and sagittal sutures are approaching
obliteration.

With regard to the projection of the zygomatic arches, in relation to
the contour of the bi-stephanic region. No. 2 is slightly phrenozygous,
but in No. 1 the arches are not visible, bi-zygo-stephanic index being
87-7 in No. 1, and 913 in No. 2. In my paper on the Cranial Characters
of the Natives of Timor-laut,t I showed that f-kuUs in which this index is
90 and upwards are phaenozygous ; these Kubu skulls are therefore on
the border-line between the tvvo conditions. The inion is fully developed
in both skulls, being represented by Broca's outline No. 1.

The average horizontal circumference of the two skulls is 410 mm., 10
mm. less than the average circumference of the heads of the five living
females measured by Mr. Forbes.

Facial portion. — The nasal bones have a very characteristic shape; they
are not moderately prominent in respect to the plane of the face, and
form a gentle curve from above downwards, being intermediate in curve
between Broca's outlines Nos. 1 and 2. The nasal aperture differs in the
two skulls: in No. 1 it is longer and slightly narrower than in No. 2, the
index of the former being 50, while that of the latter is 5G-8, which places
No. 1. in the middle of the mesorhine group (48—53), and No. 2 well
within the platyrhine (above 53). The inferior border is nearly straight
transversly, and is fairly well defined. The nasal spine of No. 1 is
represented by Broca's outline No. 2, and in skull No. 2 by the outline of
No. 1.

The orbits are somewhat more rounded in No. 1 thaa in No. 2, the
orbital index of the former being 89 2 anrl of the latter 80"1. The
margins of the orbits are thin an 1 sharply defined.

* Eeport of the Anthrop. Committee of the Brit. Assoc. (Kep. Brit. Assoc.
V. 260, 18S3).

t Journ. Anthrop. Inst. vcl. xiii. p. 391 (1884).

IN SUM ATS J. 263

The malar bones are narrow vertically, flattened anteriorly, and curve
abruptly backwards, which gives that marked prominence at the malar
point so well seen in the drawings by Mr. Forbes. The nasi-malar angle
of No. 1 skull is 143^ and of the other 140°.

The alveolar index of the two skulls is very similar, being 96"9 in No. 1,
and 98"8 in No. 2. They are therefore on the border-laud, figuratively
speaking, between orthognathous and me^ognathous.

The palato-maxillary index of No. 1 is 126, and of No. 2, 120-4,
measuring the length and breadth of this region according to Professor
Flower's plan. The palate is comparatively flat. The teeth are in good
condition, small in size, and little worn. In No. 1 the two upper incisors
have been lost during life.

The relation of the breadth of the middle portion of the face, from the
alveolar point to the nasion.to the bi-zygomatic breadth (the latter being
taken as 100), is as 52'5 and b'Si) to 100 in the two skulls respectively.
This is the mid- facial index of Kolmann, and shows a very close similarity
in the two skulls.

The diflerent measurements of the mandible show great similarity.
The chief point to be noted in this bone is the obtuseness of the symphesial
angle, which is 84° in the one, and 88° in the other skull, indicating a
mucli more vertical chin than obtains generally in Europeans.

The pelvis not being articulated, J was unable to ascertain all the
measurements which should be taken, but I measured the transverse and
antero-posterior diameter of the brim, which are undoubtedly the most
important dimensions. The transverse diameter of the brim measured
177 mm., and the antero-])osterior diameter 122, which gives a pelvic
index (taking the transverse diameter as 100) of 104'3. The index of
forty-nine European female pelves, measured by Verneau and myself,
was 7*J'0 ; while that of thirteen Andamanese, measured by myself, was
962. The antero-posterior length in comparison to the transverse
breadth of the brim in this Kubu woman's pelvis is extreme ; indeed 1
have never yccn or measured a pelvis of so exaggerated a type, approach-
ing in form nearly to that of the anthropomorphous apes. The great
antero-posterior length of this specimen is dvio chiefly to the straightness
of the sacrum. It is extremely desirable that additional specimens
should be procured, so as to ascertain Avhether such a form of pelvis is
normal in tins race.

The scapular index, or the ratio of the breadth of the scapula to the
length, the latter being taken as 100, is 7295 in the Kubu, in the
Europeans (Flower and mj.sclf) G52, in Negroes (Broca) 68'16, and in
Andamanese (Flower) 698.

The limb bones arc slender; the index, obtained by comparison of the
upper and lower limbs with each other — the inter-membral index, or the
length of the humerus and radius added together— com])ared with that
of tlic femur and tibia (the latter being taken as 100), is 70. This index
in Europeans measured by Professors Broca and Flower was found to bo
092 and G973 respectively ; in Negroes Broca ascertained it to bo G8 27 ;
and in nineteen Andamanese Flower found it to be 683.

This high index shows an ai)proximati(m in the pro])ortions of the limbs
of the Kubus to those of the anthropoid apes, and indicates that the
length of the ui)i)er limb is considerably greater in ])roportion than that
of the lower as compared to v.liat obtains in Europeans. In the Negro
and the Andamanese, on the other hantl, the ui^per limb is proportion-
ately shorter than the lower.

The femoro-lunneral index, or the ratio of the humerus to the femur,
the latter being taken as 100, is 75-2. In twenty Europeans measured

264 A NATURALIST'S WANBERINOS

by Broca and Flower it is 72-4:5, in sixteen Negro'rs (Broca) 69"79, and in
nineteen Andaraanese (Flower) 69"8. In this index also tlie variation
in the Kubus from the Europeans is in an oj^posite direction to that of
the Negroes and the Andamanese.

The femoro- tibial index, or the ratio of the tibia to the femur, tlie
latter being taken as 100, is 807 in the Kubu, 82' 1 in the European
(Flower), 847 in the Negro (Humphrey), and 84-5 in the Andamanese
(Flower).

The humero-radial index, or the length of the radius compared to the
humerus, the latter being taken as lUO, is 74-1, in Europeans (Broca and
Flower) 73*9, in Negroes (Broca) 79 4, and in Andamanese (Flower) 81'0.

Relations of the Kubus to other Races.

I have already faid that on comparing the two skulls side by side, one
is struck with the close resemblance they bear to one another. Tliere is
quite as close a resemblance between these two skulls as exists between
Andamanese skulls. Such a condition occurring in a sufficiently large serie-*
would indicate jiurity of race, or at least isolation for a long period of
years. Unfortunately the number of Kubu skulls before us is not
sufficiently large to justify very definite statements regarding them,
though I think sufficient to answer one question which presents itself
to us for solution : namely, as to what race the Kubus are allied — whether
tliey possess Negrito or Malayan affinities. The character of the hair,
the form of the nose, the various characters of the skull, and the i^ro-
portion of the limb bones show that they cannot have any near affinity
to the Negrito race found in various parts of the Indo-Malayan Archi-
pelago, but that they are decidedly Malays, and therefore Mongoloid.
The high nasi-malar angle, the high and broad face, the flat forehead
owing to absence of all glabellar and superciliary ridges, the slight sub-
glabeilar nasal depression.,, and the nomadic life they lead, are all highly
characteristic of the ]\Tongolian race.

The frizzle in the hair seen in the drawings by Mr. Forbes is probably
to be accounted for by their having at some remote period intermingled
slightly with the Negrito people, possibly during their migration
southward. There is, however, evidence that they have for a long period
been isolated from the other surrounding inhabitants of the island, and
that by absence of infusion of fresh blood they have come to resemble one
another so closely that they now possess certain definite characteristics of
a more or less stable nature. It is, however, very desirable that these
observations should be extended by a study of a larger q\;antity of
material from which to gather information than has been at my disposal.
. In the meantime we have to thank Mr. Forbes for the trouble he has been
at to secure what must be considered a very valuable addition to our
specimens illustrating the osteology of the Indo-Malayan Archipelago.

[From the Journal of the Anthropological Institute for November,
1884.]

IN SUMATBA.

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268 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

II.— LIST OF THE BIRDS OF SUMATRA.

" The first systematic account of the avi-fauna of Sumatra " (I quote
from the late Lord Tweeddale's valuaV)le paper. On a collection of birds
made in the Lampongs in 1876 by Mr. E. C. Buxton, in the Ibis for 1877,
page 283) "was Avrittcn by Sir Stamford Raffles at Fort Marlborough,
near Bencoolen. . . Most of the birds enumerated were obtained in the
vicinity of Bencoolen itself, or during short trips into the interior of
the district of that name, during the years 1819 and 1820, partly by
Sir Stamford, assisted by Dr. Joseph Arnold, and partly by Messrs.
Diard and Duvaucel. These two gentlemen were French naturalists,
whose services Sir Stamford had secured while on a visit to Bengal. An
unfortunate misunderstanding that soon after their arrival in Sumatra
occurred between the Lieutenant-Governor and these two Frenchmen,
led, in about twelve months, to a cessation of their latours, and to their
departure from Bencoolen ; and Sir Stamford was o})liged to undertake
the description of the materials collected himself, or to allow the results
to be published in France. Hence his papers in the ' Ijinnean Trans-
actions.' The number of species therein catalogued, and more or less
described, is about 168. But some birds obtained in the Prince-of- Wales
Island and Singapore are included, and a few species appear to have
been introduced into the list through oversight, and on the strength of
caged birds.

" In 1830, Lady Raffles published a memoir of her late, husband, to
which was appended a catalogue, by Vigors, of the zoological specimens
collected in Sumatra. . . . About 194 species are enumerated.

" Since 1830, no attempt at a complete account of the birds of Sumatra has
been published ; but a good many species not contained in Vigors' list have
been discovered and described, principally by the Dutch zoologists, more
particularly by Temminck and by Solomon Miiller. Mr. A. R. Wallace,
during a stay of about three months in the year 1861, collected some birds
in the district of Palembang, penetrating a hundred and twenty miles
inland ; but no separate account of his collection has appeared.

" During a period of about five months, commencing the 30th of May
1876, Mr. Edmond C. Buxton travelled in the Lampong district ... He
started from Telok Betong. and went inland to Sukadana, a distance of
about eighty miles, and obtained in all 152 species, of which two were
undescribed."

'' From 1877-1879, the Dutch mid-Sumatra expedition, through the
Padang Highlands and along the Batang Hari river, added much to our
knowledge of the natural history of that region.

From June to September, 1878, Dr. Beccari, the well-known Italian
naturalist, visited and collected on the mountains of Padang, chiefly on
Mount Singalan (8900 feet). It contained representatives of many Indo-
Chinese genera which have not l)een found in the Lampongs, some of
which were, however, collected by the Author in the more Southern
residency of Palembang.

In August of the same year, Mr. Carl Bock, a Swedish naturalist,
collected over the same region on belialf of the late Lord Tweeddale,.
obtaining 166 species. An account of this collection by Captain Wardlaw
Ramsay will be found in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of
London, 1880, p. 13.

During 1880-1881, the Author made extensive collections in the Lam-
pong and Palembang Residencies, which have been carefully Avorked out
by Mr. F. Nicholson, and a list given in the Ibis for 1879, pp. 51 and 235.

IN SUMATRA. 269

Astur trivirgiitus, Tevnn. Lniiipongs.

sulntnsis. Lath.
Accipiter virgalus, Temm. Padang.
Neo|)iis malayensis, Temm.
SpizaelUa liuinaetus, Horsf.
Spilorais palliduEi, Wuld. Larapongs.

bacha, Dand. Paleuib;ing. Lampongs.
H;iliastur iutermediu:-, Gam.
]\Iilviis govinda, Sijkes.
Pernis ptilonorliyncliiis, Temm.
Baza sumatrensis, Lafr. Palcmbang.
ilicTohierax fringillarius, Brap. Lampongs. Palembang.
Fak'O peregriuus, Gm.

inclanogenys, Gould.
Polioretus huniilis, Mul. and Schl. Pali mbar.g.

ichtbvaetus, Horsf.
Ketupa javancnsis. Less. Lampongs.
Bubo orientalL-, Uorff.
Scops lempiji, Horsf. Lampongs.

rufescens, Horsf.
Glaucidium sylvaticum, Bp.
Xinox scutulata, Rnffl. Lampongs.
Syrnium myrtlja, Bp. Palembang.
Ehopodytes erythroiinathus, Hartl. I.ampjngs.

diardi, Less. Lampongs.
Ceutrococcyx eurvcercus, Hay. Lampongs. Palcmbang.

javanensis, Dum. Palembang.
Zanclostomus javanicns, Horsf. Lampongs. Palembang.
Surniculus lugubris, L. Lampongs.
Chrysococcyx xantborhynchus, Horsf.
Hierococcyx fugax, Horsf. Lampongs.
Penthoceryx pravatus, Horsf. Lampongs.
Rhinortlia chlorpbtBa, Raffl.

Clirysopblegma mystacalis, Salv. Padang. Palembang.
Xylolepus validus, Boffl. Lampongs. Palembang.
Tbriponax javensis, Horsf. Lanipmigs.
Tiga rafflesi. Vigors. Lampongs.

javanensis, Ljunrj.
lyngipicns auritus, Eijt. Lampongs.
Calloloplius mentalis, Temm. Lampongs.
puuiccus, Horsf. Lampongs-
midaccen-is, Lath.
Micropternus bndius. Baffl.
Mciglyptca tri-stis, Horsf. Lampongs.
tnkki, Horsf. Lampongs.
Dendiotyprs i.nulis, Horsf. Lampongs,
Hcniourus sordidus, Kijt. Lampongs.
Loriculns galguhi>% L. Palcmbang.
Palseornis longicaudn, Bodd. Palend)ang.
Psittinus incertus. Shair. Lampongs.
On scius gouldi, Bp. Palcmbang.
IIari>actes duvauceli, Temm. Lampongs.
kasumba, Bufllcs. Lampongs.
f-rylhrocephaIu«, Gould.
Batracliostonius cnrnutus, Temm. Lamijongs.
f'aprimulgus pulchcUus, Sale. Padang.
Lynciiinis tcmmincki, Gatdd. Lampongs.
JMtTops .sumatra:ia, Baffles. liampongs. Palcmbang.

)>bili|)pinus. L. Padang.
Nyctiornis auiicta, Temm. Lampongs. Palembang.
Mcgalacma niy.stacoj)bano.s, Temm. Lampongs.
cbrysnpiigon, Temm. Lampongs.

19

270 A NATURALIST'S WANDEltlSGS

Sasia abnormis, Temm. Lampnn?;s.
Cypselus siibfurotus, Bhjtii. Padancr-
Collocalia t'rancica, Gni. Padaiisc.
Macroptciyx comatus, Temm. Lampongs.

longipeiinis, llnffl. Lampongs.
Carcineu'es pulchellus, Hum/. Lampongs. Palcmban^
Halcyon pileata, Bodd. Lampongs. Palembaug.
Sauiopntis cliloiis, Bodd. Lampongs.
Pelargopsis fiaseri, Sliarpe. Lampongs. Palembang.
Alcedo curyzona, Shiw. Lampongs.
meuinting, Ilorsf. Ijampongs.
bengaleusis, Gm. Lampongs.
Ceyx rufidorsa, Less. Lampong-. Palembang.
]\lL'gala3ma versicolor, Bajfles. Lampongs.
Kantholajma rosea, Dumont. T>ampongs.

ha^macepliala, 3Ldl. Lampongs.

duvaucelli. Less. liampongs.
Caloramphns bayi, Gray. Padang.
Psilopogun pyroloplms, Midi. Pakmbaug.
Hydrocissa albirostris, Shaw. Lampongs.
Authracocerus malayauus, Baffles. Lampongs.

Cimvexus, Temm. Lampongs.
Anorhiuus galeritus, Temm. Lampongs.
Eliytidueerus undulatus, Shair. Lampongs.

subrufficollis, Blyth. Palembang.
Buceros rhinoceros, L. Palembaug. Lampongs
Coroiift macrorliyuclia, Warjl.

enca, Horsf.
Dendroeitta occipitalis, Miill.
Crypsirliiua varians. Lath.
Cissa chinensis, Bodd, var. minor, Cuh.
Platysmurus leucopterus, Temm.
Oriolus macnlatus, Vieill. Palembang.
xanthonotns, Ilorsf. Palembaug
cruentus, TFti;//.
Dicrurus anncctens, Hodijs. Palembaug.

snmatranus, W. Bams.
Chaptia malayensis, Bhjth.
Bucbanga cineracea, Ilorsf.
lihringa rcsmifer, Temm.
Dissemurus paradiseus, L.
Irena criuiger, Sharpe. Palembang.
Tcplirodornis gularis, Baffl.
Ilemipus intei-niedius, Salv. Padang.

obscurus, Horsf.
Plat.vlo]ilius coronatus, Baffl. Lampongs.
Cocboa beccarii, Salvad.
Avtamides sumatrensis, MM.
Graucalus melanocepiialus, Salrnd. Padang.
Pericrucotus xauthogaster, Raffl. Palembang.

moutanus, Salvad.

cineiens, Lafr.

jieregrinus, L.
Lalagc terat, Bodd.

fimbriata, Temm., var. culminata, Haij.
Alseouax laticostris, Ii'affl.
Poliomyias luteola, Pali Palembang.
Muscicapula liypcrytlna, Blijtli.

maculata.
Xantbopygia cyauomeltcna, Temm
Hypothymis azurea, Bodd.

occipitalis, Vvj.

IN SUMATRA. 271

Khipidura javanica, Sparrm.
perlata, 3Iiill.
albicollis, Vieill.
salvadorii, Sharpe.
Terpsiplione affinis, Bli/fh.

incii, Gould.
Philentoma pyrrhopteruin, Temm.

velatum, Teinni.
Rhinomyias pectoralis, Salcad.
Culicicapa coyloneiisis. Swains. Palembang.
Stopaiola ruficrlssa, Salvad. Padang.
concreta, Mull.
thalassirioides, Salcad.
Sipliia elegans, Temm. Lampougs. Palembang.

sumatrensis, Sharpe.
Digenca solitaria, 3Iull. Padang.
Niltava grandis, Bh/th. Padang.
Phylloscopiis borealis, Bias.

viridipenuis, Bh/th.
Lusciniola fuligiiiivcntiis, Hodgs.
Geociclila sibirica, Fall. '

Tuidus cabauisi, Bp.
yEgitliina viridissiina, Bp.

tipliiii, L. var. viridis, Bp.

var. scapularis, Rorsf.
Chloropsis viridis, Horsf.

zosterops, Vigors.
media, Bp.
ieterocepbala, Less.
cyanopogon, Temm.
veiiusta, Bp.
Hcmixus cinoreus, Bhjth.

iiialaccensis, lihjth.
suuiiitrauus, Wardl. Rams.
lole olivacea, Blyth.
Pinarociclila euptilosa, Jard. & Selb.
Micropns meliinocephalup, Gm.
Criniger phajocephalus, Haiti.

gutturalis, Bp.
TrichoU'stes criniger, Blijth.
Trachyeoiiiiis ocliroeephaliis, Gm.
Pycaonotus biniaculatus, Ilvrsf.
analis, Ilvrsf.
])lumo.siis, Bhjth.
siinitlex. Less.
salvailoiii, Sharpe.
leucogranimicus, Miill.
tygus, Bp.
Rubigula dispar, Ilorsf.

cyaniventris, Bhjth.
squama ta, Temm.
wehlturi, Hume.
Irena crinigcra, Sharpe.
Piinepyga pusilla, Hodgs.
Orthotuiuus atrigularis, Temm. Lampongs.

cincraceous, Bhjth. Lampongs. Palembang
nificei)s. Less. Lampongs.
HOpiiiiii, Horsf.
Phyl'.ergatcs (Miciilhitus, Temm. Palembang.
Hydrociclila nilica|iilla. Temm. Lampongs.
fro)itali.H, llhjth. T,niiipfiiigd.
velatus Temm Palembang.

272 J NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

Eupetes macrocerciis, Temm.

Sibia similliina, Huhad. Palembang.

Gairulax bicnlor, Haiti. Palembang.

palliatus, Temm. Palembjiig. PaJang.
IVTelanocichla lugubris, Miill. Padang.
RliinociL-lila mitrata, S. Miill. Lara pongs. Palembang.
Stachyris larvata, Bp. Palembang.

poliocephala, Temm. Palembang.
nigrieollis, Temm.
thoracica, Temm.
maculata, Temm.
Turdlnus magnirostris, Moore.

loricatus, Miill. Padang.
rufipectus, t^alo. Padang.
Erythrociclila bicolor, Less. Palembang,
Urymorataphns nigricapitatus, Eijtoa. Lampougs.
Trichostoma rostiatum, Bhjth.
Myiophoneus dicrorhynchus, Scdvad. Palembang. Padang.

melanurus, Salvad. Lampongs. Palembang. Padang.

castaneus, Wardl. Hams. Padang.
Bracliypteryx buxtoui, Tweed. Lampongs.

flaviventris, lr>alvad. Padang.

umVjratilis, Strickl. Palembang.

saturatus, Salvad. Palembang.
Copsychus musicus, Eaffl. Lampongs.
Cittocincla tricolor, Vieill, var. suavis Sel. Lampongs.
Suya albigularis, Hume. Palembang.
Prinia familiaris, Horsf. Lampongs.
Burnesia flaviventris, Deless. Lampongs. Padang.
Malacopterum magnum, Eijt. Palembang. Lampongs.

cinereum, Eijt. Palembang.

lepidoeephalum, Gr.

affine, Blijth. Palembang.
Jlixoruis gularis, Buffl. Palembang.

erytliroptera, Bhjth. Lampongs. Palembang.
Macronus ptilosus, Jard. & Sdb. liampongs. Palembang,
Anuropsis malaccensis, Haiti. Palembang.
Turdinulus murinus, Blyth.
Rimator albostriatus, Salvad.
Stac-hyridopsis assimilis, Wald. Palembang.
Mesia lauiinse, Salvad. Padang.
Parus sultaneus, Hodgs.

cinereus, Bonn. & Vieill.
Ptererytlirius roralatus, Tichell, var. cameranoi, Salvad. Padang.
Pacliycephala grisola, Bhjth.

bruneicauda, Salvad.
Lanius tigrinns, Vrapiez. Pakmbaug.

bentet, Horsf. Padang.
Sitta frontalis, Horsf.
Clialcostetha insignis, Temm.
iEthopyga temminc-ki, Miill.

siparaja, Baffl,.
Cinnyris hasselti, Temm. Bencoolcn. Palembang.

pectoralis, Horsf. Palembang.
Araclinothera crassirostris, B^ich.

longirostris, Lath. Palembang.

affinis, Horsf. Palembang.

chrysogcnys, Temm. Bencoolen.

flaviventris, Gadoic.
Authotlireptes hypogrammiea, Miill.

simplex, Miill.

phtenicotis, Temm. Palembang.

JN SUMATRA. 27i3

Anthothreptes malaccensis, Scop. Palcmbaug. Bencooltn.
Zosterops aureiventer, Hume. Lnrapongs.

chlorates, Haiti. Palemhang.

atricapilla, Salrad. Padang.

flava, Horsf.

fallax. Sliirpe.

frjgida, Mull.
Dicajum flammeum, Sparin. T.anipongs.
olivaceuni, Wald. Lainpoiitrs
irigonostignia, Scop. Lampung^.
Pitta boscliii, MiiU. & Schl. Lampougo.
)nuelleri, Horsf. I ampongs.
veausta, Miill. Paleinbnug.
Calobatcs melanope, Pallas. Lampoiigs.
liudytes viridis, Gm. Lampoiigs.
Anthus rufaliis, I'.
Hiruiido javaiiica, Sparm.

Cymborbyucbus niai.Torhyiichus, Gm. Lampongs.
Calyploincua viridis, liojles. Liiiupoiigs.
Eurlyffiiuus ocliroraLlas. liaffl.
javanicus, Horsf.
Corydon suii;atrauiis, Baffles. Liimpongs.
Calornis clialybea, Horsf. Lampongs.
Sturiiopaster contra, L. Lampongs.
Gracula javanensis, Osh. Lampongs.
Artaraiis leucogister, Val. liampongs.
Analcipus crueutus, TFcjjZ. Padaug.
Padda orizivora, Ij. Lampongs.
Munia maja, L. Laniponjrs.

punctularia, L. T'alembang.
leucogastroides, Moore. Lampongs.
atricapilla, V. Palembang.
PIoccus maculatus, Mull. Lampongs.
Erytlirura ]irasina, Sparm. Lampongs.
Treron nipalen^is, Hodijs. Lampongs.
Butreron capellei, Temm. Lamponga.
Sphenocercus oxyuiu-!, Iteinic.
Osmotreron vernanj;, L. Lampongs. Padang.

olax, Tfmm. Lampongs.
Spilopelia tigiina, Temm. Lampongs.
(luopi'lia striata, L. La. i pongs.
Chalcopliaps indica, L. Lampongs.
Carpophaga bailia, Ilaffl. Lampongs.

ajnea, L. Lampongs. Palembang. Padang.
Macropygi i leptogrammica, Temm.
Ariiusianus argus, L. Lampongs. Palembang.
I'olypleetron clialcurum, T. Palembang.
Euplocomus vieilioti. Gray. Padang.
Acuiiuis inoriuitus, Salrad. Padang.
(iallus forrugineus, Gm. Palembang.
Rhizotbcra lungirostris, Temm.
Arborophila personata, Horsf. Palembang.
Pelojuadix rubriroetiis, Salvad. Padang.
Excalt'actoria chinensis, L. Palembang.
Kulhilus rouloul, Scop. Lampongs. Palembang.
C.do|)ci(lix oculea. Temm. Palembang.
Turnix pugnax, Temm. Pa lang.
Clianxflrius fulvus, Gm. Lnrnpongs.
iEgialitis geoflfioyi, Wiajl. Lampongs.
Glnreola orientalis Leach. Lampongs.
Ardea pnrpiire;i, L.
Herodiai intermedia, Hasselt. Palembang

274 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Demigretta sacra, Gm. Lampongs.
Bubulcus coromandus, Bodd. Palerabang, Patlanj
Ardetta cinnamomea, Gm. Padaiig.
Butorides javanica, HorKf. Paiembang.
Leptoptilus javauicus, Ilontf. Paleinbang.
Tantalus lacteus, Temm. Palembang.
Totauus glareola, L. Lampongs.
Tringoides hypoleucus, L. Lampongs.
Scolopax rusticola, L.

Khynchaja capensis, L. Padang. Palembang.
Hypotainidia striata, L. Palembang. Padang.
Erythra phcenicura, Frtr»f. Lampongs.
Dendrocygna arcuata, Her."/.
Sterna media, Horsf.
Lergii, Licht.

III.— ADDITIONS TO THE INSECT FAUNA OF SUMATRA.

Descriptions of Lepidotera discovered hy the Author in Sumat^-a.

The descriptions of species urder Mr. Smith's or Mr. Butler's name, haA^e
been kindly prepared by them for mc.

NYMPHALIDii:.

Trepsichrois van-deventeri, mihi, sp. nov. — Intermediate between T.
mnlciber of Borneo and T. h'nnei ; differs from the former in the slightly
larger spots on fore-wings of male, and in the well-deflned whiter mark-
ings in the female — in T. mtdciber they are brownish ; from T. linnei it
differs in its smaller size, less angulated fore-wings, smaller spots on
these wings in both sexes and much narrower streaks on hind- wings of
female; it occurs in Sumatra, Malacca, and Cachar (Assam). Lampongs,
No. 99. This species is named in honour of Mr. Justice Van Deventer.
of the Dutch-Indian Bench.

Kcdlima spiridiva, Smith, sp. nov. — Upper side : anterior wing, xniiform
dark brown, almost black, crossed from the centre of the costa to the
inner angle by a broad band of pale blue, in wliich between the first and
second median nervures is a small vitreous spot ; a small white spot near
the apex, which is not falcate, as in j^nralecta and other sjiecies of this
genus. ■" Posterior wings with an irregular, almost obsolete, sixb-marginal
black line. Both wings with a slight purple gloss. Under side : with
markings and spots resembling paraJccta, but the colouring is subject to
variation, as of the two examples I have, one is ricii brown, and the
other olive-green. Expansion, 3^ inches. '1 lus species is about the same
size as A', alhofasciata, but is distinct from it as well as from parahcta.
Sumatra. Type in Mus. H. G. Smith, Esq.

Cethosia caroUnir, mihi, sp. nov. — Differs from the C. menalis in having
the transverse black lines more uniform in width, and the white patch
at centre of external area of iore-wings of little more than half the width ;
the sub-apical white spots are also smaller, and the orange patch at anal
angle of hind-wings is considerably larger. Sumatra. Hoodjoong,
Palembang Ecsidency. No. 215. I have named this species in recog-
nition of the kindness of my sister-in-law, Miss C. Keith, who aided me
greatly in the preparation of my MS. for the printers.

Cyrestes irrnx, mihi, sjx nov. — Intermediate between C. methypsca and

IN SUMATRA. 275

C. penthesilia ; fore-wings with the markings of the latter species, hind-
wings most like methypsea, but with a broader external black margin ;
under side similar to that species, but with the white marginal line more
deeply scalloped and better marked, and the pale markings generally
whiter. Sumatra. Palembang Eesidency. Xo. 4:13. Named in honour
of the wife and elder daughter of Surgeon Julius jyiachik, of the Dutch-
Indian army.

PAriLIOXID.^.

Ixias flavipcnnis, Smith, sp. nov. — Upper side : both wings orange-
yellow; from the base, extended over about two-thirds of the wings,
shaded with gray, the nervures and remainder of the wings dark brown.
Under side : both wings yellow, mottled with brown ; anterior wing,
with a black spot at tiie end of the cell, and an irregular sub-marginal
row of brown spots confluent, extending from the costa to the inner
angle ; posterior wing with a sub-marginal row of brown spots com-
mencing on the costa between the nervures and extending to the third
median nervule, and a black spot on the first disco-cellular ncrvule.
Expansion, 2i inches. Hab., Mount Dempo, 4C00 feet. Type in Mus.
11. G. Smith, Esq.

Amnosla eudamia $ , Smith, sp. nov. — U|">pcr side: both wings brown ;
anterior wings crossed from the centre of the costa to the inner angle by
a broad brownish-white band, beyond the band the wings are darker
brown ; posterior wings, with a sub-marginal row of five spots (smaller
than in decora $ ), outside of which are two irregular dark brown lines,
and inside one dark line. Under side : both wings lighter brown than on
the upper side, with similar markings to decora, of which it may be a
variety, but it differs from the female decora in the lighter shade of the
bi'own on the upper side of the wings, in the colour of the band on the
anterior wings, in the size of the spots on the posterior wings, and on the
under side in the absence of the three spots within the cell of tl:e jostcrior
wing, and of the first of the four sub-apical sjwts on the anterior ving of
decora, and, in addition, it is somewhat larger. Expansion, 3? inche?
Hab., Siunatra. Type in Mus. H. G. Smith, Esq.

Pa2>,lio furbc.^i, Smith, Jii^to. iVonth. JShuj. p. 234 (1882-83).— Upper
side : dark brown, almost black, the margins between the nervures with
lunular white spots, very narrow on anterior wing, much broader on
]K»sterior wing, which is without tails ; anterior wings with longitudinal
rays on each side of the nervures of light brown, extending from the
middle to the exterior margin; posterior wing with a row of three
brownish-gray lunular si^ots between the median ncrvulcs, and a spot
at the anal angle, above which is a row of three small faintly-marked
spots of same colour. Under side : anterior wings rayed as above, but
paler; posterior wing with a longitudinal red sjjot at the base, divided
l)y the prccostal nervure, which is hlack, and a small red spot below the
costal nervure ; a broad band of oclireoas yellow, with a row of black spots
in the middle, extending across the wing between the median ncrvulcs,
and a small s))Ot of ochreons yellow beyond ; a black spot at the top of
the band next the anal angle, three blue si)ots near the exterior margin,
from the costal nervure to the median nervule. Expansion, 4 inches.
Halt. Banding Agong, Sumatra. This species belongs to the Meniiion
grou]), in which, however, there is notliing which resembles it. Type in
Mus. H. G. Smith, Es].

r.apilio al bo/ in eat as, mihi, sp. nov. — Allied to P. sa/urmis, Guer.
{nephelus, Dc Haan); differs from that species in the greater width of

276 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

tlie sub-apical creamy-wliite band on the fore-win^ (the five spots of
which it is formed being considerably longer), in having an additional
s]iot of the same colour at the apex of the cell, and two small, pale
oshreous spots on the hind margin. The hind wings have the discal
creamy-white patch straiglit on its inner edge, and continued to the
abdominal margin by two additional pale ochrcous spots ; the marginal
spots of both wings are also more strongly marked. The under side
differs in having the white markings generally more extended, and the
additional spot in the cell of tlia fore-wings as on tlie upper side. Hab.
Borneo. In col. Brit. Museum.

In comparing an example of PapiJio mtiirmis taken in Sumatra with
the specimens in the British Museum, I found tliis nearly-related species
unnamed in the collection, which the authorities have kindly permitted
me to describe here.

FapiUo itam-put I , Butler, sp. nov. — Allied to P. aJcibiades, but the
black markings on the primaries much broader, the fourth band forming
an acute triangle ; the external black border, occupying nearly a third
of the wing not completely divided by- the green band (which is narrower
than in P. aJcibiade a), its inner edge sub-sigmoidal ; this border terminates
just below the first median branches, not at the external angle as in P.
ahihiadea ; the secondaries have slightly longer tails, and the externo-
anal ai'ea is greenish-gray, with black outer margin, and two black bai's
near the extremity of the median interspaces ; on the under surface, in
addition to the differences noted above, the outer half of the discoidal cell
of the primaries is ochre-yellow, and the external half of the secondaries
is ixniformly instead of partially ochreous. J xpanse of wings, 77 millim.
Lampongs. In col. Brit. Musnem.

Description of a new Longicorn Colzopteron.
By Charles 0. Wateiecuse, F.Z.S,

LAMIIDiE

Megacriodes forbesii.

From the Annals and jShiqazine of Natural History for May, 1881, and
figured in Janson's Aids to the Identification of Insects.

Niger, nitidus, pube sublilissima cinerea indutus ; thoracis disco macula oculata
ciocea ornato ; clvtris basi ct sub luiraeros crebrc granulosis, plagis &ex albis
ornatis. Long. 22 lin.

Near to M. l-'aundersll, Pas-coe (Trans. Ent. Soc. 3rd ser. iii. p. 272, 1866 ) ;
but, judging from the figure (pi. xii. fig. 1), it is a more robust species.
It differs chiefly in having the base of the elytra and all the humei-al
region thickly studded with .shining granules. The scutellum is yellow.
Each elytron has three patches of white pubescence (which were doubt-
less yellow when the insect was alive) — the first and second placed as in
M. Saundcrsil, but very irregular in form ; the third very e]on<:ate, and as
if formed of the two apical si)ots of i\'. Saundersll. The under.side is
clothed with yellowish-grey pile, with a broad strij^e along the side from
behind the eye to the apical segment of the abdomen ; tin's stripe is part
yellow and part white; it was probably yellow when the specimen was
alive.

Hah. Lampongs, Sumatra {H. 0. Forbes). Brit. Museum Coll.

IN SUMATBA. 211

New Rhynchota. By W. L. Distant^ F.L.S.

(From the Ento. Month. Mag. xix. pp. 156-160.)

The following descriptions refer to species which I have received
during the last few years in collections made by Mr. Forbes. Our
present information as to the lihynchota of Sumatra is greatly due to
Snellen van Vollenhoven, whose studies, however, did i ot extend to the
Conidx of this island; to Ellenrieder, who alone treated of the P.entato-
midx ; to various descriptions by the late Dr. Stal; and the same, in a
much less satisfactory sense, of the late Mr. Walker. It will be thus seen
that at present our catalogues and collections of Sumatran Hhyuchota are
of the most meagre and superficial character though we may reafonably
liope that this comparative ignorance will soon be greatly mod ifi'ed by the
publication of the natural history section of the late Dutch Fxpedition
into Central Sumatra, f This work has now been completed, and contains
descriptions of many species new to science. H. 0. F.]

HEMIPTE?tA-HETEROPTERA.
rENTAT0:.IID.E.

Cahthecona cognata, n. sp.,* allied to C. javanka — Ent. M. Mag.,

p. 157.
Neosalica n. gen., allied to Piczostemum. Loc. cit. ji. 157.

„ forbesi, n. sp. Loc. cit. p. 157.

PVERHOt ORIDiE.

Loh'ta grandis, Gray, var. Sumatrana. Loc. cit. 158.

■REUUVIIDifi.

BantJwus cocalus, n. sp. allic 1 to P. dxdalus, Stal, and P. nigricepf,

Eent. Loc. cit. p. 158.
PcmtJtom talus, n. sp., allieJ to P. icarus, Stal. Loc. cit. \). 159.

HEMIPTERA-HojIOrXERA.
CCRCOriDiE. (

Cosmoscarla Juno, n. sp., allied to C. viridans, Guer. Loc. cit. p. 160.

* Tlie descriptions of these species aro given in full at the given pages of the
work cited. H. 0. F.

278

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

IV. ADDITIONS TO THE FLOEA OF SUMATRA..

Description of a new Vaccinium. By William Fawcett, B.Sc, F.L.S.

Vaccinium Forhesii (sp. nov.). Uerb. Forbes, in Mus. Brit., No. 2371.

Frutex aut arbor ramulis raccmis calycibiisqite pubescentibus, foliis
brevi-petiolatis elb'pticis utrinque obtusis 13 mm. longis racemis margini-
bus rccurvis integris eoriaceis glabris .subtus rufis imbricatis, 38 mm.
longis terminalibus, floribns breve-pcdicellatis, in axillis bracteorum

vAccixirji FonuESii.

foliis paullo minorum, calyce 3 mm. longo lobis tixbi longitudino
ol>tnsis, corolla 5-7 mm. longa ovoido-tubulari extus vix pubeseente aut
glabra intus pubeseente rubra aut coccinea marginibus albis (H. 0. F.),
filamontis staminum pilosis, loculis antberarum ellipticis minutissimis
spinulis tectis dorso exaristatis in tubulos breves rectos apice apertos

IN SUMATRA. 279

productis ; disco epigyno pubescente extrorsum sinuato ; bacca 5 mm.
longa globoso pubescente purpureo-iiigra.

This species differs from ^'. buxi/olium especially in the bracts being
like the leaves and not much smaller, and in the anthers being without
spurs. This beautiful species was collected on Mount Dempo, from
7500-10,500 feet. In size it yaried from a tree four feet in drcumference
to a low shrub,

[This drawing has been done for me by Mr. E. Morgan, from a camera
drawing of the author's made from the living plant. H. 0. F.]

Description of a new species of CvRTANDREJi:. By H. 0. Forbes.
[Extracted from the Linnean Society's Journal— Botany, vol. xix. p. 297.

BoEA Treubii, Forbes. — Sufifruticosa, caule usque ad 3 — 4 pedes alto,
pallide cinnamomeo-tomentoso : foliis oppositis, breviter petiolatis,
elongato-Ianceolatis, supra giabratis, subtus ciunamomeo-tomentosis ;
liedunculis multifloris, iu i^aniculam terminalcm abeuntibus ; corolla in
diam. O-20-0"23 nietr. purpurascenti-cserulca.

Folia acuminata, serrulata, undulata ; pctioli connati, basi dilatati,
caulem amplectentes. Bractea3 infcriores, foliis similes, sed minores.
Calyx 5-iDartitus ; laciniis lanccolatis, acuminatis, tomentosis. Corolla
oblique campanulata, tubus calyce brevior ; limbus bilabiatus, lobis
obovato-rotundatis. Stamina 2 perfecta, corolla multo breviora, 2-3
rudimentaria ; tilamenta arcuata ; antherse magnae, cordato-oblonga^,
reniformes, aurantiaca), apicibus cohairentes, loculis subrectis confluenti-
bus. Capsula ovoideo-cylindrica, bivalvis, valvis etiam in capsula
perjuveni spiraliter dextrorsum tortis, loculicide dehiscens; i^lacentse
membranacese, 2-fidiB, revolutae, semina minuta integentes.

Sumatra, in monte calcareo Karangnata, jn'ope Napal Litjin, in iDrov-
incia Palembang, alt. 1000 ped.

I found this singularly beautiful and graceful plant in full flower in
November, 1881, lirst near the village of Is'ajial Litjin, 580 feet above the
sea ; but in profusion on the large disrupted calcareous blocks near the
summit of the peak of Karangnata, in company with magnificent spike-
bearing Caslogynes and pink-fruited Melastomacex. I am not satisfied
that BueaTrcubii may not form a new genus; it differs from Boea in its
large size and entire stigma. The si^ecific name is give in honour of Dr.
Treub, Director of the Botanic Gardens, Buitenzorg.

PAET IV.

IN THE MOLUCCAS AND IN TIMOR-UUT.

CHAPTER I.

FROM JAVA TO AMBOINA.

Sojourn in Buitenzor?, Java — Leave for Amboina accompanied by my wife —
Friends on board — Call at Samarang and Sourabaya in Java — Macassar in
Celebes— Binia in Sumbawa — Larantuka in Flores — Cupang and Dilly in
1'imor — Banda, the island of nutmeg gardens.

Aeriving in Batavia from Sumatra on the 27th of December,
1881, I was engaged for many weeks in botanical investigations
in the Laboratory of the Buitenzorg Botanicial Gardens, in
packing up my very hirge Herbarium, and in making the
necessary arrangements for my expedition to Timor-h\ut.

At the end of March, the future companion of my travels
arrived from Europe, to whom I was married on the 5th of
April, and henceforth the record of those wanderings must
pass from the singular to the plural pronoun, while the ob-
servations hereunder recorded are those sometimes of the
one, sometimes of the other of us.

On the 15th of the month we left Batavia en route for
Timor-laut via Amboina. On board the steamer there was a
large complement of passengers, among whom was Major Van
der Weide, the directing medical officer of the Moluccas, and
a most charming Portuguese family, that of Major da Franca,
who was on his way to assume the Governorship of their
possessions in East-Timor.

The steamers of the Netherlands India Company circum-
navigate the Archipelago every month ; and as they often lie
to as long as a couple of days at the more important islands
along its southern belt, we had therefore the opportunity of
forming a slight acquaintance with many interesting places
and races of men. After a call at the two Javan ports of
Samarang and Sourabaya, we anchored for several days in

284 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

Macassar, the greatest disseminator in these seas of the pro-
ducts of Western civilisation to the barbarous East. Thence,
running a day and night's sail southward to the island of
Sumbawa, we touched for a few hours at Bima. The rest of
that day and till next afternoon we coasted along the shores
of the island of Flores, the Land of Flowers of the early
Portuguese navigators, but a heavy mist concealed from our
view its wooded features.

Anchoring at Larantuka at its eastern point, I accompanied
the captain on shore under a dense rain, and spent an hour
or two at a lone monastery there, where some eight or nine
priests were living, who hospitably proffered us the best of
their cellar. The buildings and grounds were enclosed and
strongly fenced in by thick hedges of the impenetrable bam-
boo-durie. With a few people from Java and the surrounding
islands they were spending their lives in very much like
useless solitude. The natives were anything but friendly,
and lived far in the mountains ; but every now and then, the
priests told me, they made a raid on their establishment,
shooting a few of their people in the dark and then running
away. So that it seemed to me that both the priests and
the nuns (who occupied an adjacent nunnery) might have
established themselves in a region affording more scope to
their self-denying labours. The natives I saw were mop-
haired, with sooty black skins; they wore triton-shell arm-
lets, squeezed on just below the shoulder so tight that I was
astonished that strangulation of the limb was not the result.
A pink Periwinkle {Vinca rosea), and the lovely dark blue
climbing Clitorea ternatensis grew abundantly near the shore
and in the gardens of the priests.

From Larantuka passing southward through the Flores
straits we made for Cupang in the west of Timor — a bright
clean, neatly laid-out town at the base of a range of abrupt
hills, with a considerable Dutch population living in sub-
stantial houses. On going ashore we were delighted to find
there an Englishman, Mr. Drysdale, by whom we were most
hospitably entertained during the day. The natives, tall
well-made fellows with their hair done up in a large frizzly
mop, strolled lazily about the streets looking on unconcernedly
at the tide of civilisation and the easfcr bustle of trade set

IN THE MOLUCCAS.

285

flowing by the arrival pf our steamer, as if it was a matter
in which they had absolutely no interest or concern. They
wore little clothing beyond a loin-cloth, and a fringed plaid
— that simjjlest and most primitive garb of man — about their
shoulders; a little bag, heavily ornamented with gold and
beads, suspended in front by a string round the hips, con-
tained their betel nut and siri leaves, and tastefully carved
bamboo tubes full of tobacco. A Borassus palm leaf for an
umbrella completed their costume and accoutrements, except
their hats, which, made out of the
pure white spathe of the Borassus
palm, really exhibit artistic taste
of a very high order. Somewhat
of the shape of the "Devonshire
Hat," so much worn a few years ago,
but narrower in proportion, they
were elaborately ornamented w ith a
mass of flowers and plumes really
wonderfully modelled out of little
chips of the spathe. Held in the
hand they were singularly graceful
ornaments ; but atop of the natives'
cnrly mops they had rather a gro-
tesque appearance. The indigenes
rarely came down from their own

S0L0.1 OltXAMENTATION.

mountain homes to the
town, so that very few of the natives I saw crowding the streets
of Cnpang were true Timorese, Mr. Drysdale told me ; most
of them were men from the little island of Solor, and are the
servants and coolies of the place.

Trade is carried on by barter, the most prized article of
exchange being a species of bead, by no means plentiful, called
by them laJckai, of an ochreous red colour, evidently some sort of
soft stone. Whence these beads come is quite unknown, and
no imitation yet made in Birmingham or elsewhere has been
sufficiently exact to deceive the native to give the price of the
true article for its counterfeit — a small string of eiffht or nine
inches long costing over £12.

Another night's sail brought us to Dilly, the capital of the
Portuguese territory in the east half of the island. Here we
lost our genial companions, the Governor and his family, who
20

286 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

landed under a salute from the fort, and with a great show
of ceremony. Landing later in the day, we perambulated the
town, which wanted much before it could be termed neat or
clean or other than dilapidated, but when we afterwards
came to know how terribly insalubrious it is, we were sur-
prised that the incessant fever and languor which made life on
the lowlands an absolute burden left a particle of energy in
anybody to care for anything. The supreme evil of Dilly is
its having been built on a low morass, when it might have
stood far more salubriously on the easily accessible slopes
close behind it. Before leaving we received from the Governor
a most cordial invitation to visit them again, and the generous
offer of what assistance I might want, should I have a mind
to travel in the interior of the island.

A sail of two nights and a day brought us to Banda.
Coming on deck, before breakfast, we found ourselves slowly
steaming in through a narrow winding entrance between
thickly foliaged cliffs, which seemed, after giving us passage,
to glide together and enclose us within a deep blue inland lake
without entrance or exit. It was the most lovely spot we had
yet visited. Fronting us as the steamer warped itself to the
jetty, lay the town as a cluster of white houses, built along
the low, narrow foreshore, overshadowed on all sides by steep
heights densely wooded with bright green vegetation ; from
an elevated plateau, a battlemented fort overlooked us, the
scarlet of its Dutch ensign floating in the wind with a
bright gleam of colour ; behind us, across the harbour, rose,
from the water's bayleted edge, the high symmetrical islet
cone of the Gunung Api, its base and flanks green with trees,
amid whose shade a white dwelling here and there peeped
out, peacefully reposing, careless of the internal fires that
blistered the smouldering summit of the mountain.

We walked through the town and viewed at Bin Saleh's
many native-made Paradise and thousands of other gay New
Guinea birds' skins, ready for dispatch to the Paris markets.
Two skins of the Seleucides alha and BipliyJlodes 7'espublica
were all that were worth purchasing. We were charmed with
its clean aspect, its green parks with gravelled walks, and
pretty dwellings. Wandering up the heights by a path over-
grown with lycopods and ferns, we presently found ourselves

IN TEE MOLUCCAS.

287

under a delightfully shady canopy of tall Kanary trees,
and among the groves of Nutmeg of which Banda is the
famous garden. Quite a picturesque object in the wood was
a boy busy gathering the fruit into a neat creel, with a
jointed pole like a fishing-rod, nipping off the stalk of the
ripe nuts by two claw-like prongs with which the tip of his
rod was armed, when they dropped into a little basket-like
Caere worked to the stem a few inches below. He came
and showed us his basketful of beautiful fruit
— in its pale yellow shell, half of which is left
on, in which was nestling the dark brown nut
embroidered with its deep lake mace. This fruit
is the favourite food of the large pigeons (Carpo-
phaga concinnd) whose low booming note was one
of the few bird sounds that broke the stillness of
the woods. I shot, however, a lovely green dove
{PHlopus diadematus) and a little White-eye (Zos-
terops chloris), and noticed traces of the Cassowaries
that have been introduced from New Guinea, which
are said to be now breeding there.

Farther on we came on one of the plantation-
houses, where a large number of men and women
were peeling the mace, drying it in the sun, and
packing both in boxes. These cases are all made
of one size, carefully finished and caulked, and
form as delightful an article of cargo as could
be wished. None but a trade de Z»,t'« would befit erers col-
an island so ornate and so wonderfully situated as leg ting
Banda. Its produce, grown in beautiful bowers, is
gathered up round its umbrageous bayleted shores in long
gaudily-painted praus, which are constantly darting about
propelled by lithe rowers, who, as is their custom, synchron-
ously plunge and flash out their paddles in the sun to a
buoyant merry tune, and in whose preparation or shipment
not one hand-soiling operation is required ; its atmosphere is
charged with aromatic exhalations ; its wharfs and streets are
the picture of tidiness, and the very water that laps its coral
shores is brighter and })urer than almost anywhere else in the
world.

A night's slow steaming brought us to Amboina.

288 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER II.

AMBOINA.

Aiiiboina — Reception by Mr, Eesident Paedel — Delay — Visit interior of
Amboina — Paso — Move to Wai — The jieople there — The flora and fauna —
Hetura to Amboina.

On landing in Amboina, I sent my letters of introduction
from the Government to Mr. Resident Riedel, and later in the
day we reported our arrival in person at his house. My letters
recommended me officially to him for whatever information
he could give us in regard to Timor-laut ; and in that liberal
spirit in which all travellers in the Archipelago are treated
by the Dutch Government, I had been granted the privilege
also of using the voyages thither of the Government's marine
gunboat, which the authorities in Batavia expected would be
leaving Amboina for the Tenimber Islands shortly after our
arrival there. To our surprise, Mr. Riedel's bearing towards
us was not at all friendly, and beyond the simple item that
the Tagal had just returned thence, we obtained no further
information as to its movements or intelligence from him about
Timor-laut.

Taking leave of the Resident very disappointed, as I had
relied much on the information that could have been given us,
we set about searchino: for some shelter for the niprht. Know-
ing no one in a town where there is neither hotel nor " Rooms
to be let " for chance travellers, we returned at sundown
unsuccessful on board the steamer which fortunately had not
sailed. Resuming our search next morning, we happily at
nightfall met with the Captain of the Chinese, who, with the
utmost kindness, placed a newly-built house of his at our
disposal, and made it habitable for us.

Our first impressions of Amboina, therefore, were by no

IN THE MOLUCCAS. 289

means prepossessing ; they would have been brighter could
we have foreseen that, ere we left it, we were to make many
delightful friends, whose kindness and hospitality would fix it
in our remembrance as one of the most pleasant of towns to
reside in.

Our only means now of reaching the Tenimber Islands was
by the Netherlands tri-monthly steamer, due on the 18th of
June, which had lately begun to run to New Guinea, touching
at Serah and Larat, both islets of the Timor-laut group, where
the Government had just then placed Postholders (civil offi-
cials of subordinate rank) charged with the initiatory work of
these new colonies.

To a naturalist with a spare week or two at his dis2:)osal,
few islands can offer so acceptable a retreat as Amboina. To
spend the time as profitably as possible, therefore, we decided
to move a little distance into the interior.

3Iai/ 14:th. Breathless Sunday morning. Started for Paso,
a little village situated at the top of the Bay of Amboina, on
the narrow isthmus — only a few hundred yards broad — that
connects the southern or Leitimor with the northern (called
Hitu) portion of the island. It was a disappointment to us
that a ripple on the water quite prevented our getting a glimpse
of those fairy Gardens of the Sea to be seen here, which have
been so graphically described by Mr. Wallace. Jutting out from
the land along the shores of the bay were the curious Seros or
native fish-maises, in which a double line of close bamboo pali-
sades, reaching above the level of the water, enclosed a lane,
which extended shorewards from its seaward entrance a little
way beyond low-water mark, and doubling back terminated in
deep water in a circular well, where the fish that had entered
during high tide, and whose escape had been prevented by the
ebb, were enclosed and captured from a trap door in a little
platform erected over it.

As we skirted along the shore, the sound of sacred music
floated out to us over the water from one of the little villages
in solemn and impressive cadence. We landed for a little
to look at the church whence it issued — the people here being
all " Orang Sirani," or Christians.* The congregation was
just dispersing, and we were surprised at the neatness of their
* Or " Xazarenes."

290 A NATUBALIST'S WANDEBINGS

attire ; the men in badjos (a sort of blouse) and trousers of
black glazed calico, and the women in black sarongs (petticoat)
and kabaias (a loose tunic with sleeves). Their demeanour was
becomingly grave and solemn, like their dress. The parson,
however, looked an odd figure in a white tie, a European
dress-coat never made for him, black pants of uncertain age,
and a tall narrow-rimmed beaver hat. Their church was fitted
up like a Dutch or a Scottish country kirk, and had been
entirely erected by the villagers, who, according to custom,
each contributed their share of its cost in labour or material.

On arrival at Paso, we found the Rajah (the chief of the
village, an official appointed by the Government without any
territorial possession) preparing to leave for a week to attend
some great native festival in a neighbouring village, but he
has kindly offered us a room in his house. He remembers Mr.
Wallace, who visited Paso in the time of his father (who was
also Eajah), Beccari, Macleay, and the officers of the Challenger,
who had all occupied his house, he informs us.

May Ibtli. The Rajah, and a great part of the villagers with
him, left this forenoon. The last thing done before starting
was to rake and tidy the space in front of the church, " for if
proper respect were not paid to Tuan Allah, perhaps some mis-
fortune might befall one or other of the praus." The final
start for the boats was made from the church door. Their
belief in the avenging nature of the deity is very strong.

A Strohilanfhes hedge-girt path in front of the Rajah's
house leads straight to the Bay of Baguala, along the istlimus,
which is nothing but a sandbank recently raised from the sea.

Along the S.E. shore of Leytimor I observe precipitous
cliffs of coral from 200 to 300 feet in height iii situ, indicating
a considerable amount of elevation. The Bay of Baguala is at
this season very calm, but a month hence the natives say the
monsoon will have changed, and it will be difficult for boats to
come in. Now, however, the scene is a very lively one at all
hours of the day, for the traders bringing sago-meal, fish and
fruits from Ceram, Saparua, Nusa-lau and the N.E. shores of
Amboina are hurrying before the change of weather to bring
over their produce to Amboina, and get back again with their
exchanges. On arriving in the Baguala Bay their boats have
to be all unloaded, and dragged over the narrow isthmus into a

IN THE MOLUCCAS. 291

creek of the Amboina Bay, wliicli at high water is only a few
yards distant ; and as the constant unpacking and repacking is
accompanied by shouting and singing to the beating of a tom-
tom, without which no work can bo done here as it times them
to concerted action, Paso is anything but dull.

Maij 21. Lopes and Peter as usual out hunting for birds,
while I went to the forest to botaniso ; Anna labelling the
insects and birds at home. The fine Ornithoptera, the Kupu-
Kiipu rajah or royal butterflies, for which this island is
famous, are very dilFicult to catch, as they fly at so great a
height ; nevertheless the large green 0. priocnius, and O.remus,
have been obtained feeding on the Cerhera ladaria and C.
odaUam. I have on several occasions found the bodiless wings
of the p-iamus in the forest paths, as if it had been attacked by
birds, the body devoured and the wings dropped. Nowhere
have I seen insect life — especially beetles — so abundant, or of
greater variety and beauty, as here ; one of the less rare
species is the grand Sagueir (palm-wine) feeding-beetle,
Eucliirus longimanus, figured by Mr. AVallace in his Malay
Archipelago, which perish in thousands every year by
dropping, generally during the night, into the palm-wine
collecting buckets whence they cannot escape.

Coming as I have done from the Indo-Malayan part of the
Archipelago the new character of the fauna has greatly pleased
me. Gay parrots I had counted on seeing ; but the unex-
pected richness of the plumage of the pigeons has been a special
delight to us at every return of our hunters. The Marsupial
species of discus also, of which we have obtained three species,
have interested us. They are very plentiful, and at this season
the females all seem to have a little one in their pouch. One
of these was a tiny creature about two inches long, quite hidden
in its pouch, fixed by its lips formed into a simple round orifice
to its mother's teat. They are much eaten by the natives, by
whom they are caught in nooses set in the trees, or by artifice
In moonlight nights creeping stealthily to the foot of a tree
wliore they have observed one sleeping, taking care not to lift
their heads so that the light flash in their eyes, they imitate at
short intervals its cry by placing the fingers in the nose ; the
Cuscus descends and is fallen on by tlie watcliers below. The
python is their greatest enemy, and devours large numbers of

292 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

them as they cling to the Lranches during the day in a semi-
torpid condition.

Heavy rain fell for several hours this afternoon, and
suddenly set a patch of forest near the liouse alive with a loud
hoarse uproar of tree-frogs, that continued without intermis-
sion till long after sunset. Last night, as we were falling
asleep, a colony of a different species, residing in the " atap,"
(thatch) of the rajah's house, set up an irritating, harsh
croupy bark like a little cur's, repeated every two or three
seconds till break of day, quite disturbing our rest. 1 loused
Lopes several times to beat the thatch, but they would not be
persuaded to cease croaking.

May 24th. This morning at four o'clock got up and beat a
vigorous tatoo on the rajah's " bedug" (drum) to assemble the
rowers who had agreed to row us to Tengah-tengah on our way
to Wai, and with whom it had taken me the whole of yester-
day to come to terms as to a boat and its hire. On mustering
our crew half of them failed to put in an appearance, sending
word that they did not now wish to go. New men therefore had
to be found and terms discussed with them ; and even with
them much time was lost, as during the loading of the boat they
took every opportunity of slinking off to their homes, whence
they had to be routed out over and over again. This is an
exhibition of the Sirani in their true character — at least, the
side of it they oftenest show, lazy, imtruthful, arrogant and
void of conscience. Having abjured the Mahomedan religion
for that of the Europeans — in form — and acquired some words
of their language, they consider themselves quite the equals
of the Dutch. Their change of religion has done much for
them, in many ways, as a community, but little for them
individually. They can be excessively tantalising ; and both
as traders or servants I iind them less honest hearted and
reliable than their Islamite brethren.

At length got under weigh at eight o'clock in an " orembai"
with six rowers, a helmsman, and a man to beat the drum.
We skirted the northern shore of the Baguala Bay, and landed
in a little baylet in its promontory, where the village of Tengah-
tengah lies built up in terraces from the shore. These terraces
are lined by thick rows of the true Bread-fruit tree [Artocarims
incisa), whose produce, the rajah tells me, brings in some £400

IN THE MOLUCCAS. 293

a year to the village. The people are Mahomedans, and their
language was quite unintelligible to us, being the hahasa negorai
or the old language of the country, which the Sirani consider
it beneath them to speak, just as they imagine it derogatory to
their more elevated position as Sirani to wear the head-cloth
and Malay sarong. The largest edifice in the village is the
Baluai, the council room, where the rajah, the priests, and the
chiefs of the village hold their deliberations. The rajah of
Paso told me that his Baluai had fallen to ruins, but as the old
hahasa, which they had quite discarded, might alone be spoken
in it, they could not rebuild it. The Baluai corresponds very
nearly with the Balai of Sumatra, and both words have pro-
bably a Polynesian origin. The manners of the villagers here
are simpler and far less haughty than those of the Sirani ; but
they seem poorer and less advanced in civilised ways.

Alter some delay, but without any unpleasantness, we ob-
tained a boat and rowers and started for Wai. From Tenirah-
tengah we sailed through what might have been a bay in
Fairyland : the coral gardens beneath our keel, so beautiful
that we found it difficult to proceed far without bidding our
rowers to rest on their oars to let us admire each more
wonderful spot ; around us the white shore line, in front of
a dark green palm-fringe ; behind us the island of Haruku
embowered in foliage, and the distant peaks of Ceram.
When at length we ran our prau on the shore in the mid-
afternoon in front of the village of Wai, the unreal nature of
the scene seemed complete, so buried was the place in sleep, —
not a moving creature was to be seen anywhere on the shore
or in the village, not a sound of life broke the stillness of its
tree-shaded " straats," not the bark of a dog, or the note of a
bird from among the trees, whose branches hung listless in
the broiling sun. So heavy lay the death-like silence on all
around that we felt as if we ought not to speak above a
whisper, or to tread except on tip-toe, as, led by one of our
boatmen, we slowly made our way to the house of the rajah,
who, after a time, appeared in his sleeping attire, in a half-
bewildered and confused state at finding a couple of white
strangers in his verandah. At laet, when he had slowly
grasped the reason of our unexpected advent, we came to terms
with him for an unoccupied house of his a few doors from

294 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

liis own, and it was curious to observe the surprised air of the
people as they roused themselves to watch our installation.

Though built of stone in the European style, our new
abode with its damp sand-floor, is not to be comjxired for
comfort with a bamboo pile-hut. It has one splendid acces-
sory in a large bath-house erected in a secluded spot over
a stream widened out and enclosed where it issues from the
base of the Silahutu mountain, and above where the villagers
are permitted to use it.

Sunday, May 2Sih. Strolled out together in the early morn-
ing by the shady j)aths of the neighbouring forest, and back to
the village along the bay whose charming view never ceases
to afford us unmixed delight, and on whose beach the east
wind, now begun to blow roughly, has been throwing a wealth
of sponges, hydroids, and shells among which there is always
something new to us, and where we spend many hours of our
walks in watching the painted fields of shore crabs (Gelasi-
mt(s) with their richly coloured pincer limbs and carapace,
the restless chattering Flycatchers (Myiayra galeata) and
the sedate Kingfishers on the Mangroves watching for little
Crustacea, and those curious fishes {Perioplithahnus) that hop
along the shore out of the water in such an odd a\ ay.

The village is laid out in rectangular plots fenced in by
Strobilanthes hedges, in which arc set the gated entrances to
garden-fronted houses. Th<3 streets, lined with overarching
trees, are margined along their water conduits by borders
of pink crocus-like plants. One of its chief edifices is the
Gredja, whose grandeur quite overwhelmed us; for it is far
more elaborately decorated than many a rural parish church
at home. The area of the building is set with cane-bottomed
chairs instead of fixed pews ; but on one side, raised a few feet
above the floor, a large, canopied, elaborately carved and
richly gilded suite of scats, emblazoned in front with a coat of
arms (!^, is reserved for the rajah and his family. The pulpit
is also much carved and gilded, and the church altogether is
tastefully fitted and abundantly lighted with petroleum lamps.
The services are conducted in High Malay by a European
missionary, and in his absence by the Guru or native school-
master, who with moderate regularity instructs the children
five days a week. Amboinese rajahs keep no state, and wear

JN THE MOLUCCAS. 295

no special dress except on Sundays. To-day we had the
honour of seeing the Potentate of Wai proceed to church in
state, in his bhxck trousers — which, being rather short, disphxyed
a good deal of white cotton stocking — black 'swallow-tail'
coat made for a stouter and taller individual than himself,
probably his father, and a beaver hat, tall and narrow, of an
ancient pattern, while over his head a youth carried his
gilded state umbrella. The whole population attended the
service, all of them in black calico attire ; but their religion
seems to lie on them like an awesome thraldom.

Ju7ie 8th. Began packing up in order to return to Amboina
in time for the Timor-laut steamer of the 16th. We have had
a delightful sojourn here notwithstanding the heavy rains that
set in soon after our arrival, which prevented me much to my
regret, from reaching the summit of Silahutu. The later hours
of every afternoon have been looked forward to by us both as
the most pleasant of the day, when the hunters' spoils were
displayed to be admired, examined and labelled. Among but-
terflies we have added a few more of the fine Ornitlioptera
found at Paso, numbers of "Swallow-tails," chief among them
the deep blue Papdio tdysses, species of Hebomoia and Pieris,
Charaxes euryolus, and many " Blues " ; among beetles we
have added to our collection many species of all the finest
families, Longicorns, Pose-chafers, Tiger-beetles and golden
Buprestiilee ; among birds may be mentioned the beautiful
raquet-tailcd Kingfishers of the genus Tanysiptera, which I
was rather surprised to find in large chattering corrobories in
the tops of high trees ; Maleos, whose terra-cotta eggs are
eagerly hunted for by the natives as a table luxury; Mega-
lurus amhoinensit>, an isabelline Eeed-warbler found chirping
among the tall Kussu grass; bright orange Thick-heads
{Pachycephcda), Lories, and among our favourite pigeons num-
bers of the beautiful black and cream-white nutmeg-eaters
(Myristichora hicolor) of which the little islet of Pulu Pombo,
lying a few miles oft' the coast, is a densely populated colum-
barium. The most interesting of the plants are species of
Myrmecodia, on >v hich I have been able to continue the observa-
tions begun at ivosala in Java (see j)ages 79-82).

To-day I had a long talk with the rajah and some of the
people of the neighbouring ]\Iahomedan village, from whom I

296 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

have somewhat extended the Batumerah Vocabulary given by
Mr. Wallace in the appendix to his Malay Archipelago.

Amhoina, June 10th. Yesterday at daybreak left Wai to
come here. As the state of the monsoon prevented our journey-
ing to Paso by boat, we proceeded across the promontory on
foot, our baggage carried by porters, and A — in a palan-
quin. The road led over numerous small hills, from the top of
which we got many pretty peeps of Haruku and Ceram, through
Gum-tree — the famous Kajuput — forest and Kussu-grass fields,
studded throughout with bright yellow Hibiscus-trees and with
fragrant Hahenaria susannse orchids, while by the path-side grew
bright Polygalas and delicate pink Sonerilas. The nectaries
of the Eahenaria averaged six inches in length, and though
containing only a small drop of nectar at the bottom, I believe
the flowers to be fertilised by a moth with a tongue far shorter
than six inches. Descending into the Baguala Bay we skirted
the shore all the way to Paso, where we found we must wait till
afternoon for the rise of the tide. It was only after hours of
bargaining and cajoling, and the assistance of the rajah's autho-
rity, we obtained (long after the tide had sufficiently risen)
a boat and men to take us down the bay. This unnecessary
delay did not tend to raise the Amboinese character in our
estimation, especially as it had turned out a soaking night and
so dark that we could not see where we were steering ; while, to
crown all, our boat was a very unsafe " dug-out " with no out-
riggers, in which we could not dare to beguile a part of the
way in sleep for fear of capsizing it by an unguarded move-
ment. Luckily the sea was as smooth as glass, and we kept
ourselves awake watching the crickling rain and the drip of
our paddles dancing into phosphorescent drops on the water,
the luminous zig-zag path that the frightened fishes traced
in darting from below our keel, and the flashing torches of
the fisliers arranging their Seros. Arriving about midnight
utterly worn out, we were much annoyed to find the door
of our old quarters unopened, and none of the preparations
made which we had sent on Lopes — who was really never to
be depended on out of our sight — in advance to see to ; we
pretty truly surmised that he had got " unco happy " among
his friends and forgotten all about us. After a long wait in the
rain the key was at last obtained by rousing up our kind old

IN THE MOLUCCAS. 297

Chinaman, and our baggage drenched in the rain and in the
leakage of the boat, at length deposited under cover. Finding
a boat-sail in one of the rooms, we were glad to throw ourselves
upon it on the stone floor — a wretched night even for me,
but worse for my companion, hardly yet inured to roughing it,
and for whose sake I bitterly grudged such hardship in a town
so civilised as Amboina

298 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER III.

FROM AMBOINA TO TIMOE-LAUT.

Leave for Timor -kiit — Saparua — Curious village and atoll of Gessir — New
Guinea- — Aru — Kc — Timoi-laut — First impressions — New birds and but-
terflies— State of siege — Negotiate for a bouse— Language — Our barter
goods.

July 5th. On board the SS. Amhoina. At last, at 5 a.m. " Full
steam ahead " — for Timor-laut. Since the 10th of last month,
after completing our stock of beads, knives, and the thousand
and one knick-nacks bought pretty much on chance in the
hope of their being good trade, "\ve have been living with all
our baggage packed and roped, expecting every hour the
arrival of the New Guinea steamer — a period of intense
discomfort and unrest. Before its arrival was announced we
had quite concluded that some accident had befallen it. At
last, however, we are on board, and have already forgotten our
vexation in the keen satisfaction of being really on our way
Eastward to the islands where we hope to find so many new
forms of life.

Our enforced sojourn in the town was not altogether
without pleasure. Amboina is one of the most salubrious
of towns, and is charmingly laid out in arbour-like streets — ■
very enjoyable in the evenings — which lead to the beach and
to the grassy hills on the outskirts along the shores ; while,
being the head-quarters of a regiment of troops, music was
discoursed twice a week on the j)lain in front of the Port ;
and, having then no European acquaintances, we had leisure
to look on at phases of Chinese, Arab, and native life, which,
standing in the dark, gazing into lamp-lit churches, dwellings,
shops, and gambling-houses, we could unnoticed interest our-
selves in. On the day after the arrival of the Java mail that
brought us the sad intelligence of the death of Mr. Darwin,

^yafaraKstfe WanJerinjj's in Qte Eaatsm Archqielago .

To face Bage^Bh.

M

132°

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TENIMBER ISLANDS

OR

TIMOR LAUT

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Wth corrections iyJtfniO.Torbes.

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the AhJhoris coTLectiona wrrr ohtmned*

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Bjo'per % Brothers iiewYork.

IN TIMOR -LAUT. 299

I was delighted to be hailed by Dr. Julius IMachik, an old
friend of mine in the Lampongs of Sumatra, who posted to the
charge of the Military Hospital, had come with his family to
reside here. His house was forthwith our constant rendezvous,
and as he was a keen entomologist and ichthyologist, the rest
of the time till our departure passed most pleasantly.

Juli/ i)th and 6th were spent in touching at Saparua, one of
the Ceram group, and in lying for a day in our favourite port
of Banda. Having steamed slowly during the next night
we anchored in the morning of the 7th at Gessir, a mere
horseshoe-shaped, cocoanut-fringed coral atoll, picturesquely
showing its surface above the sea at the east end of Ceram.
Once one of the most dreaded nests, and the secure hiding-
place of pirates in these seas, it is now one of the busiest and
most curious marts in the extreme East — a rich ethnological
gallery, crowded with representatives and the handiwork of
every race in the Archipelago, and dotted with Malay, Chinese
and Buginese dwellings, each built after its own fashion. The
houses are arranged in quadrangular blocks, each within a
high fence, opening on to clean, carefully kept streets lighted
by oil lamps on painted lamp-posts — all fresh as a new
button.

It is the rendezvous of the Paradise- and other bird-skin
collectors from the mainland of New Guinea, from Salwatty,
Mysore, and Halmaheira, and of the pearl-divers of Aru ;
hither the tripang, tortoise-shell, beeswax, nutmegs, dammar,
and other rich produce from a multitude of islands is brought
to be exchanged with the jMalay and Chinese traders, of Macas-
sar, Singapore and Ternatc, for the scarlet, blue, and white
cottons and calicos of the Dutch and English looms, for the
yellow-handled hoop-iron knives, which form the universal
small change of these regions, and for beads, glass-balls,
knobs of amber, old keys, scraps of iron, and worthless but
gaudy Brummagem. At certain seasons it is quite a rich
zoological garden. Here may often be seen in captivity Birds
of Paradise of species never yet seen alive anywhere else out
of their own lands, parrots, lories, cockatoos, crowned pigeons,
cassowaries, tree kangaroos, and other animals which have
managed to survive a journey thus far, but rarely farther west.

Juhj Sth. New Guinea! This morning we find ourselves

300 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

gazing for the first time on the wooded shores of the land
over which there lies such a halo of romance and mystery.
It was with the intensest interest that we landed by scram-
bling up on the curious and shaky platforms which the
Papuan projects far out into the sea as a foundation for his
house, over which, on narrow planks of sj^lit bamboo and on
rolling tree-trunks, guarding against falling into ' the sea
through the constant vacuities, we made our way to the shore,
which was but a narrow strip of land a few yards wide in front
of high and perpendicular cliffs of rock.

We were surrounded at once by a crowd of tall, erect,
frizzly-headed, well-disposed men and women, who found us
most curious objects apparently. It was evident that they
had but seldom seen white faces, for our colour interested
them very much. They examined our legs, arms, and faces,
rubbing them gently and looking at their fingers to see
whether the colour came off or not ; others, taking off the
scanty head-cloth they wore, took our hands within its folds in

a most reverential attitude. A , probably the only white

lady that has ever trod this northern part, was, however, the
object of curiosity. After looking at her very intently for some
time a thought suddenly seemed to strike two of their number,
who, dashing away towards one of the houses, returned in a
little leading between them an Albino woman with fair skin
and yellowish hair, and placing her side by side as, burst into
a hearty laugh, as much as to say, " We know now why your
skins are white."

I observed that their dead were buried in the ground, in a
mound-shaped grave. One was entirely curtained above and
round four stakes driven into the ground ; while another was
surmounted by a skull.

After touching at Ke and Aru, we bore away south by west,
and early on the morning of July the 13th we sighted the first
of the Tenimber Islands, lying between 6^35' and 8'^25' N. lat.
and 130^30' and 132^ E. longitude ; these were the higher
lands of Molu and Vordate, beyond which the mainland of the
larger island came into view as a low-lying country trending
away southwards, presenting to our eyes, fresh from the ma-
jestic forests of the western regions of the Archipelago, by no
means a very luxuriant vegetation.

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 301

When the islands were first discovered and the name Timor-
laut or Tenimber first applied, I have not been able to discover.
In Mercator's atlas of 1636, they are represented on a small
scale in his map of the East Indian Islands. The first informa-
tion we possess of a reliable kind is by Captain Owen Stanley,
whose name is perpetuated in that magnificent pile of moun-
tains in the south-east promontory of New Guinea, whose heights
no white foot has yet ascended. In his ' Visits to the Islands
in the Arafura Sea,' in 1 839 (in Stokes' ' Discoveries in Austra-
lia') he says: "We sailed from Port Essington on March 18,
1839, .. .Light airs prevented, our clearing the harbour till
the morning of the 19th, and at 3 r.M. on the 20th we made
the land of Timor-laut. . . . Xi daylight on the 21st we made
all sail to the northward . . . and anchored in 11 fathoms,
sand and coral, three-quarters of a mile from the shore. On
landing the contrast to the Australian shores [Captain Stanley
approached from the opposite point of the compass from myself]
we had so recently sailed from was very striking. We left a
land covered with the monotonous interminable forest of the
eucalyptus or gum tree, which from the j)eculiar structure of
its leaf affords but little shelter from the troj)ical sun ; shores
fringed with impenetrable mangroves, . . . the natives black,
the lowest in the scale of civilised life. . . . We landed on a
beach, along which a luxuriant growth of cocoa-nut trees ex-
tended for more than a mile, under the shade of which were
sheds neatly constructed of bamboo and thatched with palm-
leaves, for the reception of their canoes. To our right a hill
rose to a height of 400 feet covered with brilliant and varied
vegetation so luxuriant as entirely to conceal the village
(Oliliet) built on its summit. The no,tives who thronged the
beach were of a light tawny colour, mostly fine athletic men
witli an intelligent expression of countenance."

With the exception of this meagre account we have no
further information regarding Timor-laut for nearly thirty-
eight years, when a vessel belonging to some Banda traders
visited the island in 1877, an account of which is given in the
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1878 (p. 294),
under the title of " Voyages of the Steamer Egeron in the
Indian Archipchigo, including the discovery of Egeron Strait
in the Tenimber or Timor-laut Islands." These voyages were
21

302 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

undertaken chiefly for trade purposes. Mr. Hartog has the
honour of being the tirst person to sail through the strait
separating the north and south islands which bears the name
of his vessel ; but Captain Owen Stanley was really the first
to indicate the existence of this strait ; for in his ' Notes of a
Cruise in the Eastern Archipelago in 1841-2,' which are to
be found in the Journal of the same Society for 1842 (vol. xii.
p. 263) he writes : " After leaving Baber, Ave made the island
of Sera, on the west coast of Timor-laut, and then stood across
for Australia. A good harbour is said to exist in the south
part of Timor-laut, which is sejMrated from the north part ly
a deep cliannel. Indeed," he continues, " I feel sure that
M'hen the island is properly examined, it will be found to
consist of several islands separated by narrow channels."

As we drew nearer and nearer w^e carefully and anxiously
watched the growing features of our new home. I observed
that the much indented coast, a low and narrow foreshore
covered with a thick forest of cocoa-nut trees and dark-green
mangrove thickets, Avas fringed in most places Avith a precipi-
tous bluff, on Avhich principally the villages, Avhose houses
glinted through the vegetation above them, Avere situated. At
midday Ave entered the narroAv strait between the mainland
and the island of Larat, and anchored opposite the village of
Ritabel. As soon as wo had made fast, several boats — the fore-
most of them rather timidly — put out from both shores, and
in a few minutes Ave were surrounded by a little fleet, Avhose
occupants scrambled on board, talking and jabbering as only
Papuans can, affording us an opportunity of forming some
opinion of those who Avere to be our friends or foes for the
next three months. They were powerful athletic felloAvs, and
conducted themselves exceedingly well, apparently aAved by
Avhat they saw on board of the marvellous things of civilisa-
tion. Their sole request AA'as for laru or gin, the most-prized
by them of all earthly commodities.

After depositing our baggage, our three servants and our
two selves on the shore, the Amhoina at once hoisted her anchor
and bore aAA'ay. We sat down on a chest and watched her
grow less and less and disappear over the horizon, Avith feelings
somcAvhat of desolation and not without some misgivings, left
there the sole Europeans among a race of the very worst

JX TIMOR-LAUT. 'SQ{

reputation and without the jDossibility of communicatin'>- ^Yith
civilisation for at least three months to come.

We found the Postholder a native of one of the Moluccas
Islands, loft here by the Resident in the bsginniuo- of ^^Eav,
fairly well housed ; but he told us he had suffered terribly
from fever. He was good enough to let us a room, and to
allow us to store our baggage under the verandah of his house
till we should obtain one of our own. We then sauntered out
through the village, which is situated on the foreshore against
a cliff; the houses resembled those figured in Captain Owen
Stanley's narrative already referred to. They were arrano-ed
more or less in irregular streets, with their gables as a rule to
the sea, to allow of their praus being run up under tbem,
though in many cases separate sheds were erected for them.
All round the village we found a high strong palisade, with a
portion removable, however, on the shore side in the daytime.
In attempting to pass out by the landward gateway we were at
once restrained by scA^eral of the villagers following us, who
pointed to the ground in an excited manner, demonstrating to
us its surface everywhere set with sharpened bamboo spikes,
except along a narrow footpath. Their gestures instantly
opened our eyes, with an unpleasant shock, to the truth that
wo were environed by enemies, and the village was standiu"-
on its defence.

Outside the gate we catered under a cocoa-nut forest, among
ferns {Asplenium, Pteris, and Pohjpodium), Clerodendrons, low
Solanums and Malvaceous shrubs, which grew densely over
the coral foreshore of the island, in front of the abrupt cliffs,
along whose sunny bases I saw several butterflies unknown to
me and new to science ; but — not possessing cuirassed limbs
which could despise the bayonet crop that overspread tho
ground, from which in that climate even a slight wound pro-
duces often the most serious results — many of them defied our
deftest attempts to ensnare. The first specimen I netted was
a new Swallow-tail butterfly (Papilto abcrrans), and the first
beetle a gorgeous golden Bupresti<l (Ciipliognslra splendvns).

Turnini; in another direction, brcakinji: throu<rh j«:i'rantic
maises and walls of si)idcrs' webs, we ascended the bluff of
which I have spoken, on which grew some Papilionaceous trees
of considerable height, along with Erythrinas and others I did

30-4 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

not know, but in their branches I espied the beautiful scarlet
Lory {Eos reticulata),\\h.\ch, though it had been long known from
these islands, I was perhaps the first European to see alive in
its own country, and certainly the first to shoot there. During
the same walk we were surprised to hear from a cocoa-nut tree
near the village a most singular bawling, or caterwauling,
vhich I thought must proceed from one of the children at
play, but which I at last perceived to be produced by a new
species of Honey-eater {Philemon), whose voice became familiar
to us as the earliest and the latest sounds of the day. These
observations raised high hopes in my breast as to what I yet
might discover, for the species I had seen were almost all new.

The next sight was less exhilarating — on a tree-clad
elevation the half-burned and recently deserted village of
Eidol ; and from the branch of a high tree before us a human
arm, hacked out by the shoulder-blade dangled in the breeze,
and at no great distance further were recently-gibbeted human
heads and limbs.

A state of war, we found, existed between, on the one hand,
the villagers of Piidol burnt out by the Kaleobar people,
leagued with Waitidal on the north-western corner, which had
taken them in, and with Eitabel, our village ; and on the
other hand, those of Kaleobar, one of the largest villages on
the island situated on the north-eastern corner, which was
leagued A\ith Ivelaan and with Lamdesar, two other village-s
on the south-eastern coast. Frequent raids had been made
recently by these villages on Piitabel, the wife of whose chief
had recently been picked off from the outside of the palisade
by a lurking Kaleobar marksman, while many of the villagers
showed us their recent wounds received in an attack made a
few weeks before our arrival. The bamboo spikes in the
ground round the village were set to prevent such clandestine
approaches. During the day they were removed from the
paths which led to their fields and wells, and at sunset, when
tJie last man had returned to the village, the pathway was
carefully reset, and the gateway barricaded for the night ; it
was the duty of the first goer-out in the morning to open
the gate and remove the sj^ikes. In this affray it was that
the unfortunates, who owned the dismembered limbs we had
seen, were captured. These grim mementoes did not inspire

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 305

either of us Avith the most pleasant reflections, but we deter-
mined to close our eyes on all but the bright side of the
picture of Avhich we had got a glimpse.

The villagers seemed perfectly well disposed towards us,
without fear or suspicion of us. AVe ventured to look into
their homes as we returned from our survey, and they beckoned
us in with a smile.

Our first care was to obtain a liouse, and at once on our first
morning I set about looking for a site. Those who know best
what uncivilised ways are will understand our vexation at the
difficulties now encountered, the excuses for refusing one spot
after another, the whole-day palavers abandoned at night
without result, and day after day for eight days. By a large
present all round I had the satisfaction of at last cajoling the
old men into deciding on a site lying within the tide mark,
which forthwith was occupied before they could change their
minds.

During the progress of the building which of necessity
had to be a pile dwelling, and when my presence and
actual help were not necessary, we made short excursions to
the immediate neighbourhood on which we were always
accompanied by some of the natives, who seemed to take
the liveliest possible interest in our doings, and with whom
we mixed as much as we could. Perceiving that I recorded
their names for everything we encountered, they themselves
adopted the role of teacher — the young women not less
than the men — repeating to us the name of every tangible
object, as well as trying to bring us to a comprehension of
their expressions for abstract ideas. After some days they
began regularly to catechise us in past lessons, bringing us
various objects whose names they had already given us,
and by signs requiring us to repeat to them their names,
laughing heartily at us when we made a failure or a mis-
pronunciation. The buttons on our garments formed ex-
cellent objects on which to teach us numeration, and many
a score of times we have had to stand while some Yenus-
formed maiden encountering us in the village insisted on
hearing us recount their tale again. So assiduous and
apparently interested in our acquiring their Inngunge were
they, that their willing lessons are to us now one of l^hc most

306 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

pleasing reminiscences of these simple people. We of course
very soon began to be able to hold some sort of converse with
them in their own language, which resembled that spoken by

the Ke Islanders ; and through A , who had become a great

favourite with the people, caressed and affectionately patted
by them in her wanderings about the village, we got to know
much of their inner life.

We soon found that a great deal of the barter goods we had
brought were of little use among these people. Only our
German knives, cloths, and calico would be tradeable. Our
beads they would not look at, they were too coarse and large ;
their taste lay in the small scarlet and blue sorts, I had
brought a good many English sovereigns ; they looked at
them narrowly and weighed them, but would not trade in
them. This I considered very strange, inasmuch as their most
valued possessions were gold earrings. The explanation, how-
ever, I discovered later. The Egerons master, it seems, had
brought a quantity of false English gold made in Singapore,
using them as barter articles with the people on his first
voyages, and some of which they showed me. When they
came to beat out these coins the deception was at once discov-
ered, and during our visit it was impossible to pass a single
gold piece. Had the natives had the certainty that the coins
were genuine, they would have given many times their value
in exchange, and, being easily transported, they ought to have
formed our most valuable trade medium. We learned, too,
what caused us considerable anxiety, that the islands produced
practically no rice ; nor was sago, as used on the other islands,
to be had unless we could manufacture it ourselves from the
trees. The products of the island from which the natives
mainly obtained their food-supply were Indian corn, sweet
potatoes, and a few species of legume, which was all we should
have to fall back on if our own not very ample supplies ran
siiort

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 307

CHAPTEE IV.

SOJOURN IN TiMOR-LAUT — continued.

The natives — Hair and cuiffures — Vanity— Stature and living characteristics
— Cranial characters — Clotliin.' — Tjilcalele dance — Arms — Marriaae
—Artistic skill — Individual and moial character — Treatment of their
children — Games — Fine figures — Graves — Gocd butteifl\- resorts.

Many trvine; and vexatious delays — the laziness of the natives,
quarrels in the village, and fear of attacks from our neigh-
bours, which are easier to look back on from the midst of civili-
sation than to bear at tl\e time, -with equanimity — prevented out
house, which taxed all our energies, from being finished till
the nineteenth day after our arrival, and not till then was I
able to commence making any close study of the surrounding
country, or of its flora and fauna. But we had no useless time
on our hands, everything was so new to us. The people that
came about us to gaze, were all subjects deserving the closest
study. Their every gesture and every custom had to be
watched with microscopic acuteness, if we were to improve our
opportunities and not fail in deciphering the story — only thus
recorded and to be ere long blurred and blotted by foreign
contact — of their race, incessantly being unfolded before us
in their every unconscious word and commonest action.

All the natives of the islands we saw were handsome-featured
fellows, lithe, tall, erect, and with splendidly formed bodies.
They dyed their hair of a rich golden colour by a preparation
made of cocoa-nut ash and lime, varying, however, in shade
with the time, from a dirty grey through a red or russet colour,
till the second day, when the approved tint appeared. Several
modes of arranging their hair were in vogue. It was either
carefully combed out, transfixed with a long fork-like comb,
and confined within a single girdle of palm-leaf, or a black, red

308

A NATDBALIST'S WANDERINGS

and white patchwork band, was allowed to hang loose to the
shoulders ; or it \\as done up in a frizzed mop, different, how-
ever, from the unravellable matted wisp seen on the Papuans

J.ft.O '■^-'

COIFFURES OF THE NATIVES OF TIMOK-LAUT.

of Macluer Inlet in New Guinea, or among the Aru Islanders.
Their coiffure seems to depend on the kind of hair, straight
or frizzled, that Nature has given them ; when frizzled it is

arranged in a mop, and Avhen straight it is combed out and
crimped with the instrument shown on page 309, to hang
down the back in a " cataract." The arranging of their hair is
one of their most enjoyed occupations, and the vanity with which

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 309

they bind it within various coloured bands —narrow above broad
—laid one on another, before a mirror formed of water collected
in the bottom of a prau, or on the calm sea-face itself, is most
amusing to see. The men are very fond of having their hair
cut quite short, as it no doubt relieves them for a time bv
reducing the population in that region of their bodies.

One day some of them seeing in our house a pair of scissors,
eagerly begged its use for this purpose, whereupon one of
them at once started as haircutter, and as soon as it was known
that such operations were going on a crowd collected, and,
sitting down in a row, waited for their turn. We tried to
get some specimens of their locks, but when they saw that we
desired to keep the portions we picked up, they became quite
afraid, and excitedly demanded them back, for fear, as they
said, they would die if they remained in our keeping. They
gathered up every scrap, and had
not a kind wind assisted us, and
blown a few pieces to a littlo dis-
tance out of their sight, which

A and I marked down noting

the subject from which each had
come, we could not have obtained
a single specimen. In Sumatra
I once saw a man most carefullv i^'s™^«ent for crimping the

HAIU.

bury the scraps after paring his

finger-nails. It seems as if there existed in these countries
a superstitious dread of any part of their person being in pos-
session of another. One day, when I purchased from a man
his father's skull, something of the same dread appeared;
for as soon as the bargain was completed, the seller took from
his luvu (or siri-holder) a piece of areca-nut, and, setting the
skull before him, he placed the nut between its teeth, and before
handing it over to me he repeated a long and devout invoca-
tion. On another occasion, also, when I purchased from an old
man a large fish, which he had just taken with great difficulty,
he would not hand it over to me till he had cut oft' one of the
pectoral fins, to return it, with an invocation to the nitu, or
soul of the fish, lest he should come by harm.

The character of the hair is the same in both sexes. Among
the women hair is abundant on the head without being

310 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

profuse ; but they take little or no care of it, simply twisting
it into a knot behind, where it is transfixed with a neatly
ornamented comb. They never dye it, that apparently being
the prerogative of the male sex alone.

The men vary very greatly in stature : some are short and
thick-set, and reach little over 5 feet, if they (!ven attain that
height. The greater proportion are tall, well formed men of
about 5 feet 11 inches, but some stand well over G feet —
splendid looking fellows with perfect frames and magnificent
muscles. In their walk they stride forward in a jerky,
bouncing style, which gives to the head and their hair
when combed out behind, a quick nodding motion. Their
whole motion is full of grace, but so proportioned are they that
it really seems scarcely possible for them to move ungrace-
fully. As youths they are splendid examples of the human
form ; as children not a few of both sexes are really pretty
in face and figure, but unfortunately they are frequently dis-
figured by an enormously distended stomach and abdomen,
which induces a sad and sickly expression of countenance.
The women vary greatly also ; some being short and thick-set,
scarcely reaching 5 feet, while others are as tall as the taller
of the men. Many of the girls are handsome, and a few are
even beauties, with pensive eyes, delicate features, and fault-
less in contour of body and limb ; but as they pass into the
married state their features become coarser, yet on the whole
neither sex can be called ugly.

The colour of their smooth soft skin is a rich chocolate brown ;
but here and there among them occurs a quite black-skinned
individual, who is at once remarkable as being an exception to
the prevailing colour. In feature the forehead retreats slightly
from the prominent superciliary ridges, as seen in profile. En
face it is somewhat flat. In the malar region, in some the
cheek-bones are very prominent ; while in others, again, this
feature is as little observable. The brows are low, but not con-
spicuously hairy. The eyes are small and narrow, and in some
of them a slight obliquity is observable, while, on the other hand,
there are those with the eyeball very prominent. There are two
distinct forms of nose among them : one in which that feature is
very low between the eyes, advancing with a straight dorsum to
the retrousse tip, which discloses both nostrils conspicuously,

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 311

the tip being markedly pointed ; the other form in which the
dorsum is higher between the eyes, is straight, and sometimes
arched, and the tip pointed, depressed, and incurved to form a
thick fat septum. In this form the nostrils are almost concealed,
and the alie nasi much inflated. En face both dorsa are straight,
the first form exhibiting the nostrils fully and the septum ; the
second form with the dorsum compressed slightly in the middle,
the nostrils scarcely seen, and the alse nasi inflated. The upper
lip is prognathus ; the lower somewhat retreating or orthogna-
thus. The teeth of the upper jaw overlap those of the lower
jaw, but this is not invariable, -many of both sexes having the
teeth meeting evenly. From the malar region the face rapidly
converges to the small, non-protruding, round, and rather well-
shaped chin. The ears are small, but a good deal disfigured
by the large irregularly bored holes and slits made in the
lobe, while the helix and scaphoid fossa are distorted by a
series of smaller holes in which the earring's graduate from
above downwards, from small to greater.

From my own observations on the living people, as well as
from an examination kindly made for me by Dr. Garson of the
crania which I brought home, two very different types can
be made out, the brachycephalic and the dolichocephalic, the
former greatly predominating. From the differences in colour of
the skin, from the variation seen in the features and in the
character of the hair it is evident that in the Tenimber Islands
we have a distinctly mixed race, consisting of Malayan and
Polynesian elements, as well as of the Papuan as found in New
Guinea ; in fact, some of their crania are indistinguishable from
specimens obtained near Port 3Ioresby. The Malayan type of
nose did not always coincide with the presence of straight hair,
though in some cases they did so markedly. I noted women
in Larat with perfectly straight hair, and yet with the Papuan
type of nose and face ; and others again in wliom frizzly hair
accompanied a nose half Papuan, half 3Ialayan.

By Polynesian I mean the brown race seen in the Fiji and
Samoan Islands, as distinguished from the sooty black tribes
occurring in Aru and New Guinea. This commingling may
be the result of many causes. Timor-laut was probably one
of the last Islands, as I\[r. Keane believes, occupied by the
Polynesian race in Malaysia during its eastern migration to

312

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the remote Archipelagos of the Pacific, and some members of
tlie family may have been left behind, and these mingling
with subsequent arrivals from Papuasia and Malaysia may
have thus contributed to the present heterogeneous ethnical
relations observed hy me.

That some connection with the Indo-Malayan region has
taken place, seems to be indicated by the presence of tlie
Tangalunga one of the Viverridx, so commonly carried about
by these jjeople, and of the herds of buffaloes on the mainland,

ORNAMENTED BELT-BLCKLE.

animals quite foreign to the Austro-Malayan region, which must
have been brought by the Malays, though it is incredible that
in their small praus they would carry so great a quadruped
as a buffalo. The Timor-laut tribes have, moreover, been long
notorious for their piratical habits, attacking all boats passing-
near their shores, making slaves of the men, and concubines of
the Avomen, In the boats that called at Ritabel on their way
home from various parts of the group I have seen being taken
back with them women, Avhom the chain binding them to
the mast proclaimed to be slaves captured or bought. The

7.V TIMOE-LAUT.

313

Buginese and Macassar traders also carry on a considerable
traffic in slaves, bringing them from Halmaheira and the coasts
of Borneo and Celebes. In this way also may be accounted
for some of the race-mingling.

The clothing of the men consists of a narrow T-shaped loin-
cloth, with the ends which hang down in front decorated with red,
black and white patchwork, and adorned with sections of cowrie-
shells and with beads. The women wear a short sarong (Malay
petticoat), artistically woven by themselves out of the fibres of
the Aloan-palm {Borassus jlabeUiformh), suspended by a broad
belt made from the stem of its leaf and fastened by an elaborately
carved buckle of wood which frequently in married women has
been the gift of her husband at the time when her purchase-money
was agreed on, possibly a sort of engagement token. Armlets
cut from conus shells, of brass, of ivory, or
of wood, carved like those worn by the Hill
Dyaks of Borneo, are worn by both sexes ;
while the women have in addition toe-rings
and anklets of brass. Bound the helix and
in the lobe of their ears the women wear a
graduated series of silver or of gold lor-
lora or rings, which in the case of the men
is often so heavy as to break away the
cartilage. The patterns of these ear orna-
ments are exceedingly chaste, especially
those carved out of bone, of ivory and
ebony combined, or of the tooth of the rare
and highly-prized dugong {Ilalicore).

Both sexes tatoo a few simple devices,
circles, stars and pointed crosses, on the breast, on the brow, on
the cheek, and on the wrists ; and scar, with the utmost equani-
mity, their arms and shoulders with red hot stones in imitation
of small-pox marks, as a charm that will ward off, they think,
that disease. I did not, however, see any one variola-marked,
nor could I learn of an epidemic of the disease having appeared
among them. As it was considered by the women a mark of
beauty to have filed teeth, some of them had only a narrow
rim left protruding from their gums.

The men spend a life of savage indolence or indulgence,
the women alone are always busily occupied. In tlie morning,

314 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

after arranging their hair, the men remove from the palm-
trees, invariably to the chanting of a song of invocation, the
bamboos with the tuak collected in them over night, and trim
the stem for running during the day to supply their evening
libations. Than Avhen ascending the trees the Tenimber athlete,
his fautless form against the sky, and his brown skin and
golden hair in contrast with the grey stem of the tree, never
shows to greater advantage.

The chief meal of the day lasts from about eight o'clock till
nearly noon, and consists of boiled Indian corn meal, mixed
with mashed manioc and peas, along with fish — hunted for along
the shore with bow and arrow, or by scattering on the water
rice steeped in an infusion of a poisonous vine — and a very great
deal of palm wine, fresh drawn as well as distilled. 1"he meal
is partaken of in considerable companies together in large sheds
open at the gables in or near the village, generally in the
buildings where their tuah is being distilled, which are used also
for commou assembly rooms. Very few of the older men leave
the meal sober, or become " capable " during the rest of the day,
a condition in which they are boisterously talkative, querulous
and pugnacious. The women eat in private, or snatch a bite
of food when they can.

All day long two ceaseless sounds are heard, the click-clack
of their looms and the dull thud of the stamping of Indian corn
and peas in large tridacna shells. If the women are not thus
employed they are away by prahu, accompanied by some of the
younger men, to fetch the necessary stores from their gardens.
In these plantations, made in the forest on the poor soil which
covers the underlying coral rocks, they cultivate sweet potatoes,
manioc, sugar cane, and their staple food, Indian corn, witli
a little rice (which grows very badly), some cotton, and a good
deal of tobacco, whose leaves they chew but do not smoke.

In time of war the common safety is watched all night by
the villagers, eight or ten at a time in rotation, who dance the
Tjikelele round a figure of their deity, or Duadilah, each man
beating with his hand on a cylindrical drum, singing to its
accompaniment a song or invocation with a wild and shrieking
chorus, which at the time of full moon is Iccpt up for many
unbroken days and nights.

Their arms are a shield, often elaborately carved and

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 315

adorned with the hair of their enemies, bows and arrows, and
various forms of iron or cojjper pointed hmces and sp(?ars,
which they can use with marvellous precision, and a long
sword carried in a loop in a buffalo-hide corslet to fit beneath
the arms made by themselves, and resembling a 16th century
cuirass, of which it is probably a copy. They use also
counterfeit Tower guns (made in Singapore), but as they fill
them with gunpowder almost to the muzzle they are nothing
like the dangerous weapon — except to themselves — that their
unerring arrow is.

A man may have as many wives as he can purchase, but as
a rule it is all he can do to secure one, till, at least, he is con-
siderably advanced in years, and has disposed of some of his
daughters for gold earrings and elephants' tusks, two factors
which cannot be eliminated from the bargain, and arc not over
common. These tusks are brought cliiefly from Singapore
and Sumatra where they cost 200 or 300 florins each, by the
Buginese traders, who with the westerly winds seek out the
creeks and bays of the '•' far, far East " to exchange them for
trepang and tortoisesholl. The father of the girl has often to
wait a long time for the ivory portion of her price; but he
liands her over, on the payment of the other items of the
bargain, to her purchaser, who takes up his abode in her
house, where she and her children remain as hostages till the
full price is paid. A girl sorely wounded by the Blind God
occasionally takes the settlement of affairs into her own hands,
and runs away with the object of her affection, without the
permission of her parents, a proceeding which does not relieve
him of the purchase money. If, however, she had been or
was about to bo disposed of to another man, and had eloped
with a more desired youth, she would be forcibly seized and
her companion would be punished with death. Their wives,
if not treated with a great show of affection, are not subjected
to much restraint or subjection, and live a free and not
unhappy life.

The opening months of a Tenimber's islander's existence are
not passed on a bed of roses. Strolling through the village one
evening we were beckoned into a hut to see a newly born infant.
It was lying quite naked, witli only a hard palm-spathe be-
neath its back and a square inch or so of cloth on its stomach,

316

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

in a rude cradle or Siicela, a rough rattan basket suspended so
as to rock over a fire in a smoke so dense that we were
amazed that it was not suffocated. Occasionally the nurse drops

CARVED COMB, OUN'AMENTED WITH INLAID BONE.

to sleep, and the fire burns the bottom out of the Siicela, and
the child is worse off than if it had been bitten by all the mos-
quitos of Larat, to be free from which it is so susjaended. The

IN TIMOR-LAUT.

317

child, it would seem, is invariably laid in exactly the same posi-
tion in the cradle, either on its back or on one side according
to the j)lace of its suspension in the house, with the result that
the hinder part of its head becomes quite flattened. In some
living infants the deformity was very prominent, and that it
remains permanent is evidenced by one of
the crania of a full-grown man which I
brought home ; but no sort of binding is
applied to the head in any stage of their
youth, as among many tribes, to induce an
abnormal and admired shape of head.

The artistic ability of the Timor-laut
people is unquestionably very high. They
are very deft-fingered and clever carvers
of wood and ivory. The " ligure-heads "
of their outrigger praus, dug out of single
trees, especially attract attention by the
excellence of the workmanship, carefully
and patiently executed, and the elegance
of their furnishings ; while the whole
length of the central pillars of their
houses are also most elaborately carved
with intricate patterns and representa-
tions of crocodiles and other animals.
Their appreciation of beauty is a charac-
teristic of them, which, absolutely wanting
in the Malay people, I Avas surprised to
find among a less advanced race. While
walking tlirough the forest they invariably
pluck and tastefully arrange in a hole in
their comb which is there for the very
purpose, any particularly bright bunch of
flowers they see.

Their houses, though little more than
floor and roof, are very neat structures, elevated four or
five feet above the ground, and entered by a stair through
a trap-door cut in the floor, which is shut down and slotted
at night. In front of the door is a seat of honour — dodolmn
— with ornamented supports and a high carved back, on the
top of which is placed an image — Duadilah — with, at its
22

ORXAMENTED CHALK-
HOLDER.

318

.1 NATURALIST'S WANDEEINGS

side, a platter whereon a morsel of food is offered every time
they eat in its presence. Every time they drink they dip
their finger and thumb in the fluid, and flick a drop or two
upward with a few muttered words of invocation. Along
the four sides spaces for sleeping on are raised some nine
to tweh'e inches above the level of the rahanralan or floor of
the house. The inmates sleep on small, neatly made bamboo
mats, and rest their heads on a piece of squared bamboo with
rounded edges, exactly similar to the Chinese pillow. In one

HOUSE IN TIMOR-LAL'T.

gable is the foean or fire-place, and opposite to it on a trellis-
work platform is placed the cranium of the father of the Head
of the house. Indian corn and other comestibles and various
articles are stored on little platforms stretching between the
rafters, and their scanty clothing and other articles are sus-
pended from the roof by wooden contrivances often elaborately
designed and elegantly carved (see pp. 320, 324). After seeing
how elaborately covered almost everything they used Avas with
carvings, executed with undoubted taste and surprising skill,

7^ TIMOR-LAUT.

319

we began to ask ourselves, first, Can such artistically developed
people be savages? — and, next, the more difficult question,
What is a sctvage ?

The Tenimberese are very independent in character ; " every
man his own master " is their motto. Though they have an
Orang Kaya or Chief, his voice has but little more influence
than any other full- aged man's. The " old men's " opinion has
some weight with the younger men, but every man speaks out

HOUSE IN' TIJIOK-LAUT, AVITH ROOF REMOVED TO SHOW THE IXTEUIOR.

his mind boldly and fearlessly. When any serious deliberation
is going on, the whole community crowds round the assembly
room, the women even taking part, and exj)ressing freely and
without offence their opinions. The voice of the majority is
the law of their community.

Their moral characteristics are such as might bo expected
from a rude people subject to no restraint ; they are sei\sual,
though no immorality in their actions or in their carvings
ever comes to the public gaze. They are essentially selfish and

320

A NATURALIST 'S WANDERINGS

devoid of all feelings of gratitude or pity. To give anything
for nothing would be a breach of all their hereditary instincts.

On one occasion, towards the end of
our stay, when our larder was empty
and our men were away in the northern
island of Molu, a bunch of fish, which

A was sorely in need of after a

long bout of fever, was brought to us
for sale; but the barter demanded was
a particular kind of button, of which
we had not a single example remain-
ing. We offered almost anything they
miffht choose from our stock — cloth,
knives, beads — nothing, however, but
the button would satisfy them. Give
us the fislies the owner would not ;
instead, he hung them on a peg at our
very door, where we dared not have
touched them, w^hers they remained
till next day, when I had to fetch him
to relieve us of the putrefying odour,
which he did by casting them into
tlie sea ! Where they think they can
escape detection they lie and steal
without compunction, though their laws punish the latter with
slavery, from which the thief can be ransomed only by a great
sum. When sober they are good natured enough and live in
harmony with each other, but in their cups they are easily
offended. To their enemies they are savagely cruel, executing
on those that fall into their hands the most revolting atrocities
before affixing their dismembered quarters to their public
places.

Like all untutored races they are very inquisitive. They
watched our " manners and customs " as eagerly as we did
theirs. From morning to uight we had constant relays lying
in or sitting about our house, whom it was impossible to dis-
miss without giving offence. Though it was a very interesting
study and there was much to be learned from watching those
big children in their various moods, it was not quite pleasant to
have them alwavs with us, or to take our food with an inffnitesi-

SUSrENSORY CONTRIVANCE
MADE OF PALM-LEAF.

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 321

mally clad savage sitting at the table, rubbing his hips against
our plates. Happily, I observed one day that they had a
mighty horror of snakes, which supplied me with an effectual
means of ridding ourselves when over-burdened with their com-
pany. I would cautiously proceed to insert my hand without
any apparent reference to our visitors, into the large tin in
which my spirit specimens were kept, an operation they pressed
closely and intently round me to watch. A vigorous splutter
inside made them draw back somewhat ; but on withdrawing my
hand with a writhing snake, the crowd would tumble over each
other out at the door screaming and shouting. As they never
waited to see the end of the operation, they never came to know
that I had not a mania for keeping live snakes.

In the treatment of their children, both parents were inva-
riably kind and affectionate. To see the fathers carrying about
their children in the evenings, with kindly care, one could
scarcely believe in the savage ferocity of their natures, as wo
had seen it exhibited more than once. Like mothers every-
where else, the women seemed pleased at the notice A would

take of their infants, who, like those with white skins, derived
amusement from little dolls — stuffed with rice grains instead of
sawdust ; and the little packets of sugar she often gave them
were inviolately kept though tempting enough to the mothers
also, and given to them little by little. All their children were
profusely adorned with beads and necklets, and their little
limbs were encased in perfect bucklers of shell armlets.

The youths and boys used to play in the evenings in the
most lively manner, often in company with the younger fathers,
while a crowd of interested villagers looked on. One of their
great amusements was the sailing of miniature boats elegantly
made out of cjaha-gaba, or sago palm stems, which they entered
for championship in spirited regattas. They would build also
forts of sand, and defend them against their comrade foes with
balls of wet mud. The laughter which hailed a good hit told
of the enjoyment and interest of the on-looking crowd of
villagers of all ages. Their chief game, however, one more of
skill and precision tlian the others, was played with discs cut
off from tlie top of conus shells, of which each player had two
One of these quoits he deposited in a little depression in the
ground, and the other he played from a crease a few yards

322 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

distant, so as to dislodge a quoit from the row. If the player
failed to hit he had to return to the crease to play again in his
turn, but if he succeeded he played a second time from where
his quoit rested. Passing his right hand holding the disc round
to his left side as far as he could stretch, and steadying it w ith
his left hand, he would take in this position steady aim, calcu-
lating with a glancing eye the spot he intended to hit, tlien with
a run forward a few steps to the crease, he would deliver with
all his might. Xot only did the young lads and boys engage
in this game, but even the grown-up men jijined with much bois-
terous laughter. At a very early age the children begin to
v»ade about the shallow margins of the sea, practising with spear
and arrow the capture of fish, training arm and eye till when
they have come of age, they have attained an almost unerring
accuracy of aim. A fine exhibition was to be witnessed of
the beauty of the human figure when the youths — fine fellows
in the perfection of their manhood — came out at sundown
to practise the drawing of the bow m' throwing of the lance.
How awkward were the attempts of myself and my Amboinese
boys ! How well-merited their good-natured jeering ! The
marvellous grace, however, of the human form was unsur-
passingly exhibited when — the setting sun beliind their lissom
untrammelled figures — the women ^Yere returning from the
fields, standing erect at the stern, and with long strokes poling
in their buoyant praus. One view might shame half of the
spine-deformed, waist-distorted slaves of fashion out of cus-
toms, which are as barbarous as any which are recorded as
strange or hurtful among savage peoples.

When a man dies, his children and relatives assemble to
lament his departure, but I have never seen any outward
expression or sign of mourning. A pig is killed, but I am in
doubt whether it is given to the a,ssembled people to eat or
laid with the dead body, which is then placed in a jiortion of
a prau fitted to the length of the individual, or within strips
of gdba-gaha, or stems of the sago palm pinned together. If it
is a person of some consequence, such as an Orang Kaya, an
ornate and decorated prau-shaped cofiQn is specially made. This
is then enveloped in calico, and placed either on the top of a
rock by the margin of the sea at a short distance from the
village, or on a high pile-platform erected on the shore about

7.V TIMOR-LAUT.

323

low-tide mark. On the top of the coflSn-lid are erected tall
flags, and the figures of men playing gongs, shooting guns, and
gesticulating wildly to frighten away evil influences from the

GRAVE OF A NATIVE CHIEF.

sleeper. Sometimes the platform is erected on the shore above
high-water mark, and near it is stuck in the ground a tall
bamboo full of palm-wine ; and suspended over a bamboo rail

324

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

are bunches of sweet potatoes for the use of the dead man's
Nitu. Two days after the burial, the family go to bathe and
wash their hair; and after two days more they search for
ten fishes and one tortoise wherewith to give a feast, which is
finished with siri and libations of palm-wine. When the body
is quite decomposed, his son, or one of the family, disinters
the skull and deposits it on a little platform in his house, in
the gable opposite the fire-place, while to ward off evil from
himself he carries about with him the atlas and axis bones of
its neck in his luvu, or siri-holder. The bodies of those who
die in war or by a violent death are buried, and not placed on

CARVED SUSPENSORY CONTRIVANCES.

rocks or on a platform, where only such as die naturally are
deposited ; and if his head has been captured a cocoa-nut is
placed in the grave to represent the missing member, and to
deceive and satisfy his spirit.

I am doubtful if these rites are always faithfully performed,
for on walking along the shore I have often seen, where the
coffin has fallen to pieces, complete crania on the rocks where
the body had been deposited, while occipital and frontal bones,
mingling with jaws of pigs, lay quite uncared for on the shore.
The dead man's spirit, they say, goes to Nusa Nitu, or Mara-
matta — " an island near to Ceram," which the navigator passes
fearful and vigilant, believing he hears strange unsiren sounds
wafted out to him on the sea, and is thankful when the Home
of the Spirits has sunk down in the horizon behind him.

IN TIMOB-LAUT. 325

Northward from Kitabel, our village, the shore of the channel
was dotted with detached coral boulders, on each of which
several corpses reposed, whence the most fearful stench used
especially after rain, to come down the wind. ^Yhether this, or
the Convolvulaceas and creeping Papilionacese that flowered in
abundance there, was the attracting cause I cannot say ; but
certain it is that these most pestiferous spots were our richest

butterfly grounds. There A caught the new Hiipohjmnas

forhesii, Terias laratensis, and among many others two different
species, Colli ploea visenda and Chanapa sacerdos — which it was
next to impossible to distinguish on the wing from their
mimicking each other — both new to science, while tlie h)vely
Ftiloims u-aUacii frequented in crowds the tig-trees that over-
hung this foetid shore.

326 A NATURALIST'S WANDEPdNGS

CHAPTER y.

SOJOURN IN TiMOR-LAUT — Continued.

JlA\-Aon nnd superstitions — Yisit to Waitidal — Barter for a skull — Send my
"liunters to the northern islands of the group— Climate of Timor-laut —
A mauvais quart d'heure — Desi;^nation of the grou]^) — Geographical and
geological features.

The Tenimber islanders 2-ecognise some supreme existence
Avhom they call Duadilah, of whom there is an image in their
houses, over the principal seat, or dodol-an, facing the entrance,
with at its side a platter, or hilaan, on which a little food and
drink is placed whenever they themselves eat. From their luvus,
among the other heterogeneous odds and ends which it con-
tains, they can generally produce one small image, sometimes
more. Their little gods vary in form according to the occupa-
tion they are engaged in ; but in what light they regard them
I could not discover. Singularly enough, one of these images
(on the left hand, p. 327) lias a most wonderful resemblance to
one brought by 3[i-. Wallace from Xew Guinea, and figured
in his ' Malay Archipelago.' That they have a firm belief in
a powerful, chiefly an avenging, spirit I feel certain. One
day a stranger to the village had his loin-cloth stolen. After
several days had passed without his recovering it, we were
surprised to see a boat urgently propelled across the bay,
from which the owner of the stolen cloth impulsively sprang,
brinf>-ino: with him a small red flag on the end of a slender
pole. This he erected on the spot whence his cloth had dis-
appeared, and after looking up with a steady and jjenetrating
eye and repeating in a most tragic and excited manner a long
imprecation against the thief and the village, he removed the
pole, jumped into his boat, atid, without accosting any one,
withdrew in the same urgent manner from the now doomed
villaire.

7^ TIMOR-LAUT.

827

As the constant dread of attack by the Kaleobar tribe on our
village, by keeping us in a daily state of suspense and anxiety,
restricted my operations to a narrow area, I proposed to the
native Postholder that we should together visit that village to

Dl'ADILAH.

try what could be done by personal intiiience to establish peace.
He, however, seemed by no means willing to accompany me,
excusing himself on the plea that the people of Waitidal the
next village, wliicli had lost more than our own by Kaleobar
raids, would oppose a peace. I therefore determined first to

328 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

sound them on the subject. Accompanied by an Orang Kay a
or chief, from Sera, on the west coast, who happened to be in
Ritabel on a visit, and who spoke a little Malay, I proceeded
to Waitidal. As like most of the Tenimberese villages, it was
situated on a flat space of some extent on the summit of a bluif
which stood a good way back from the shore, we had in order to
reach the gateway to ascend the perpendicular face of the cliff
by a steep wooden trap stair, which I observed was of dark-red
wood, its sides elaborately sculptured with alligators and
lizards, and surmounted by a carved head on each side. On
entering I saluted those near the gate, but we were rather
coldly received. As we proceeded up the centre of the vil-
lage two elderly men, who were evidently intoxicated, rushed
at us with poised spears, gesticulating and shouting to those
around to oppose us. The tumult brought out the Orang
Kaya, whose approach prevented any immediate act of hos-
tility, and to him my guide explained the object of our
visit. Having shaken hands with us — a sign of friendsliip —
he, accompanied by the older men, conducted us to his house,
through the door-hole of which I ascended with the uneasy
feeling of entering a trap. My proposals being fully ex-
plained to them, they were received at first with little oppo-
sition, till my intoxicated friends joined the circle. One was
evidently a man of some importance in the vilhige, and at once
opposed the project in a spirit of hostility, which gradually
spread to the others. As no palaver is ever conducted without
profuse libations raw palm-spirit distilled by themselves, was
passed round in cocoanut-shell cups, and I was expected to
keep pace — no slow one — with their drinking. As the spirit
circulated the hostile feeling developed, especially as the
discussion had merged into another, viz., that I should be per-
suaded to leave Ritabel and dwell in Waitidal. Tliey found I
had sold much cloth and knives in Ritabel^ but had brought
none over to them ; I could have plenty of fowls among them ;
they would find me no end of birds, and would not cheat me in
the way the Eitabel people were doing. To this, of course, I
could not agree, and put my refusal as pleasantly as I could.
I tried to bring the palaver to a close by rising to leave ;
but this they would not permit, for one of them barred my
exit by sitting on guard on the top of the hatch. I shortly

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 329

discovered that the subject of their excited wrangling was
whether I should be permitted to leave at all. My guide, after
whispering to me not to be alarmed and adding a remark I did
not comprehend, went away, luckily leaving me door open,
intending, as I imagined, to return soon ; but he either joined
some other drinking party and forgot to do so, or purposely
left me to my own resources. Pretending to be quite pleased
to prolong my visit, I presented my cup for more spirit, and
as successive rounds were filled my companions became in-
capable of observing that I did not drain my cup till I had
passed its contents througli the floor, and was imperceptibly
nearing the now open trap-door. I took the first opportunity
of diving through the oritice, and with a bold step shaped my
course for the stairway at the top of the rock, where I felt I
could dispute my departure on even terms. My guide appeared
with rather a hang-dog look, and we wasted no time in getting
to our boat and rowino; out some distance from the shore.

I did not venture a second time amongst them, although
the villagers of Waitidal in order to secure a share of the cloths
and other goods I was disposing of, came over constantly to
our vilhige in twos or threes, to barter provisions, carved
work, and ethnological objects. On one occasion an amusing
incident occurred during the purchase from a Waitidal man of
a cranium. He had brought me, with the usual secrecy, a fine
skull, but fitted with a lower jaw which I saw did not belong to it.
I pointed out the fact, and urged him to make a search for the
corresponding bone. After arguing the point a long time with-
out effect, he thought he had settled matters by saying, " There
is really no mistake ; I remember quite well when my father
was alive he had just this sort of under jaw ! " Finding it was
no good and that I would not trade, he went his way ; but in a
few hours he came back with a beaming face — he had found
his father's lower jaw\ His father's brother had been laid down
on the same stone, hence the mistake. I traded to his dutiful
son's satisfaction, who, before giving me possession, inserted a
piece of pinang nut between its teeth, and in a most reveren-
tial manner paid his last invocation to the Head of his line.
That sun's welfare is regulated now from the Mammalian
Gallery of the British jMuseum !

The' Postholder, backed by the action of the Waitidal

330 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

people, would not venture to Kaleobar, and I did not consider
it prudent to go alone. We had therefore to bear with
equanimity what could not be remedied ; but it ims galling
to be in a new and unknown country and be tied to a few acres
of it, without being able to cross the mainland to the west
coast, or to penetrate farther south from want of guides, and
especially of carriers to accompany me ; for, contrary to the
general statement that there exists a "black frizzly-headed
savage people in the interior," * there are absolutely no in-
habitants in the interior of Timor-laut. Tillages occur pretty
thickly along the coasts, except on the northern portion,
where there does not apj^ear to be any population at all.

As the Postholder was about to pay a visit to the outlying
islands of Maru and Molu, which were inhabited by a very
friendly people, I decided to send with him my two men — as I
dared not myself leave my Herbarium to the care of a native,
and my stores and collections unguarded — to collect and bring
me all the information they could on the points I instructed
them on, while I continued my ojierations on the still fruitful
region to which I had access.

The climate of Timor-laut is one of extreme insalubrity.
For the first eighteen to twenty days none of my company
suffered in the least ; but that period seemed to be with us all
the limit of resistance to the deleterious miasma. The fever,
the result in great part of the bad water (there being no
streams in the district), and of the strong south-east winds
that then supervened was one of great severity. Coming on
with sickness, the temperature rose rapidly to 103'-105°

accompanied with strong delirium, which in A 's case

continued for nearly three weeks with but short intervals of
release. During the continuance of the fever — which happily
rarely attacked us both on the same day, a circumstance that
enabled us to aid each other — the two most effectual remedies
were, besides quinine, salicilate of soda and chloroform, the
latter especially very rapidly lowering the temperature and
inducing perspiration.

Neither of us will likely ever forget our fever-attack of

August 27th. A , wretchedly weak and reduced from weeks

of almost continuous fever, was assisting me to get up after a
* Stanford's Compendium, Australasia, by A. R. "Wallace.

7.V TIMOR-LAUT. 331

bad day of the same about the hour the village Avas goino- to
rest for the night. A terrific shot from a native gun — alwavs
charged to the very muzzle — startled the whole communitv.
Shouts of "Ivaleobar" resounded everywhere. Like a dis-
turbed ant's-nest the villagers, every man with his arrow on
the string or a sheaf of javelins in his hand, one of them ready
j)oised, clustered out round the barricades shouting and ges-
ticulating. We were alone — the Postholder and our men not
having returned from Molu — except for one servant, use-
less in such a case. After barricadino: the door and slidinir
an explosive shell into my Martini, with a cheery word to
my companion who held ready a handful of cartridges, and a
hasty look to see if the boat which, unknown to her, I had
purchased expressly for perhaps such an emergency was still
riding by its line to the pillar of the house, to serve as a last
means of escape, I stood ready at the open window for what
might follow. A sudden silence of the shouting supervened, a
period of acute suspense to us, whose window did not look out
on the barricades, and then the chief's son came to tell us
that the shot was an accidental dischar2:e of a late-returnine:
villager's gun. It was a mauvais quart dlieure, short but
terribly trying, which showed how tense was the nervous ex-
pectancy under which the whole village was living. The
eaction of relief was nearly as difficult to endure as the
suspense had been. ^^

Besides fever, which affected the natives also, few diseases
existed on the islands. With the exception of that curious
fungoid skin disease so common among the Papuan races, of a
little scrofula, and, among the old people, rheumatic affections
of the hands and limbs, the people were very healthy.

Among other interesting facts, I learned from the inhabi-
tants that the name of Timor-laut Avas quite unknown to
them. This is a Malay appellation, 2)robably given by the
Macassar traders, who, falling on a large island farther in the
sea than the one they best knew as the Easterly isle — which
the name Timor signifies — designated this, l)y Timor-Jaut or
the Eastern Island in the Sea. Another derivation of the name
has been given that the appellation of the group is not Timor-
Jaut but Timorlao, in which the termination lao means far,
and that, therefore, their designation signifies the Far-east

332 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINOS

Islands. I could not discover that they gave any general
name to the whole group ; but they invariably designated the
mainland of the northern of the two larger islands by the
name Yamdena, while they spoke of the southern portion
as Selaru, which, in their language, is the word for Indian
corn.

In examining the Tenimber islands, one is struck with the
resemblance that exists between them and the Aru group, in
the curious way in which both are cut up by narrow channels.
"Some of the southern islands of Aru (I quote from the
narrative of the voyage of the Dutch corvette Triton in 1828) are
of considerable extent, but those to the north, lying close to
the edge of the bank, are rarely more than five or six miles in
circumference. The land is low, being only a few feet above
the level of the sea except in spots where patches of rock rise
to the height of twenty feet, but the lofty trees which cover
the face of the country give it the aj)pearance of being much
more elevated."

The island of Larat is separated from the mainland by a
narrow strait, which I have designated with the honoured name
of the author of the ' Malay Archipelago ' — Wallace Channel,
which forms a fairly good harbour at its northern entrance,
but shallows away towards the south end so much that only
small boats can come through it at low tide, and in fact, to
the south of Ritabel village the bottom can be reached all
the way across, with the exception of a few yards, by a poling-
rod.

Between Larat and Vordate there is, in calm weather, a
safe channel, yet on Captain Stanley's authority it is quite
shoal. The sea to the northward;, again, is very shallow, only
narrow passages separating the islands of Frienun, Maru, and
Molu, as I gather from my hunters (whose information I
believe to be correct) whom I sent there for a few weeks to
collect, and gather information.

The lowness also of the country in our immediate neigh-
bourhood struck me much. I could see on Larat and on the
mainland, no ground rising at the most over a hundred feet
or so, for standing on the shore I could look right across the
main island, and see the greater part of the only height
worthy of the name of mountain, within the range of vision.

7.V TJMOR-LAUT.

the Peak of Laibobar. This mountain symmetrically conical
in form, rises out of the sea on an islet on the west coast, and
is, judging by the eye, somewhere about 2000 feet in height.
I have little doubt that it will be found to be an extinct or
dormant crater. I was shown by the natives a piece of
pumice stone, used by them to polish their spearheads, which
they say floats into their bay after northerly and westerly
winds. Possibly some of it may be washed into the sea off
the slopes of this mountain during the rainy season. Further
experience showed me that the whole of the mainland of
Yamdena, as far as my excursions extended, was also of coral,
which formed precipitous cliffs nearly all round the islands,
in some places as much as sixty to eighty feet in height ; but
about Egeron Strait the coast is said to rise about four
hundred feet.

I was early struck with the fact tbat everywhere the island
was composed of coral, and that the vegetation grew on the
scantiest possible soil. No rock of a sedimentary or granitoid
character could I detect anywhere on the islet of Larat. I
had at first thought that a stratified-like mass near our resi-
dence had that character, but on closer examination it turns
out to be entirely non-arenaceous.

There are no mountains in the islands, and no fresh water
streams. All our so-called fresh water Avas skimmed off the
surface of holes made in the coral, and was brackish and un-
palatable. On the mainland, however, I noticed at points
slightly above high-water mark fresher water than that found
in Larat, flowing, it seemed, from springs.

The whole of the northern portion of the islands, therefore,
appears to have been recently elevated or is perhaps still
beino; so, after a lon^: submersion below the sea.

The cliffs are ail of coral, and the shore at low tide is
formed of the stumps of elevated branched corals, and in
many places a flat floor of hard concrete like what I saw in
the Keelinff atoll
23

334 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER VI.

SOJOUEX IX TiMOE-LAUT — Continued.

Natural histoiy — Flora — Disaster to Herbarium — Fauna — Mimicking birds
— Insects — Fevef and failure of supplies — Anxious waiting for steamer
— Arrival of SS. Amboina — Leave Timor-laut for Amboina,

Of the natural history of Timor-laut, about which almost
nothing was known before our visit, I have been able, to a
considerable extent, to fill up the blanks in our knowledge.

In some places the low shrubby under-forest is so dense as
to be almost impenetrable on account of its spiny character,
while in other parts the woods are open below. The trees were,
some of them, of considerable height, but of no great thick-
ness, and but sparsely distributed. The largest I observed
were Sterculias and fig-trees of the genus TJrostigma. The
former are common and, in throwing out their flowers in
advance of their foliage, their crowns form enormous bright
scarlet bosses and are the most characteristic objects in the
landscape. Doubtless they occur all along the coast, and very
likely suggested the term " brilliant " used by Captain Stanley
in his description, already quoted, of the vegetation about
Oliliet. This tree {Stercidia fcetida) is probably a near
relative of, if it is not identical with, the Fire-tree of Aus-
tralia, which has attracted so much admiration there. Legumi-
nous trees and shrubs were very abundantly represented ; and
with myrtles, pandans, palms, euphorbias, Malvacese, figs,
and Apocynaceous trees, formed the bulk of the vegetation.
Under these a green carpet of Commelyna {C. nudijiora)
hides the rough and knobbly coral. Casuarinas and Cycads,
which, both in Timor and Aru, form so striking a feature of
the vegetation, and phyllode-bearing Acacias with the Euca-
lyptus and Melaleuca, which characterise the Australian flora,
were singularly conspicious by their absence in the districts

7.V TIMOE-LAUT. 335

over which my operations extended. Artocarpus incisa, not the
true bread-fruit, which is a seedless variety, but the species
more common in the Moluccas, was found in considerable abun-
dance. In its broad features, as far as we yet know, the plants
of the Tenimber Island belong to a typically coral island flora.
But among them are two most interesting species belonging to
monotypic genera hitherto represented, as Sir Joseph Hooker
has pointed out, only by single specimens — the one from the
far separated islands of New Caledonia, and the other from
West Australia. Growing in the coral crevices, often within
the splash of the waves, I gathered a most lovely orchid, Den-
drohiiim plialoenopsis, previously known only from Queensland
in Australia, while open to the wash of the Arafura Sea out-
side Cape Yatusianga, the trees were covered with Polypodia-
ceous ferns and orchids of the species Dendrobium antennatum,
while tlie whole shore was strewed with seeds of many kinds.

The Herbarium on which our present knowledge of the
flora is based is very small ; my own would have been much
larger but for an unfortunate fire in the drying-house in which
it was being prepared, which consumed the greater portion of
my botanical collection — a heart-breaking episode which I
give in my companion's words : —

" September {)th. This forenoon, when quite alone, H

and the hunters having gone to the opposite shore for the day,
and Kobes to the well a mile off, while I was sitting in that
miserable, restless condition which succeeds a fever attack, a
longing seized me to look out of the door, for I had for many
days been unable to leave my sleei)ing apartment. Fortunate
impulse ! Kobes had piled half a dozen great logs on the fire
of the drying-house (an erection like our dwelling, and all the
Tenimber tenements, of bamboo and atap thatch, now, at the
close of the dry season, very imflammable) and left them to
the whims of a strong breeze, which, at the moment I looked,
had just fanned the fire into fierce flames. I sped into the
village for help, but met the Postholder with his men running
towards me, attracted by the rushing noise of the flames. With-
out a moment's delay some of them cut great palm branches
to interpose between the burning house and the overnanging
eaves of our dwelling, others tore apart the framework, scattered
the bundles of plants, and beat the flames with green branches,

336 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

while the Tenimber natives poured on water which they carried
in gonrds and bamboos from the sea close by. With what
breathless anxiety I watched the effect of each gust of wind,
for the thatch of our house — in which were stored several tins
of petroleum and of spirits of wine, and a quantity of gun-
powder— was already scorched. Had it caught, nothing could
have saved the whole village, nor us from the vengeance of the
people. At last the flames were got under, and I had time to
realise that the few charred and sodden bundles before me was
all that remained of more than 500 of the first gathered
specimens of the flora of Tenimber collected at such risk and
pains. I could not boar to stand on the shore, as usual, to
welcome the home-coming boat, but long ere it touched, the
ruined drying-house had told them the disheartening news of
the disaster that had happened."

If we except birds, animal life I found to be but poorly
represented. Besides a Cusctis, a genus of Marsupials common
to the Moluccas and new Guinea, and doubtfully a wild pig,
I saw no indigenous mammalian animals — with one reserA'a-
tion. On the mainland we found large herds of buffaloes
living in a Avild state, being indigenous as far as native
tradition could enlighten us, for they believe that they came
up out of the earth. "When, and by what means they arrived
is unknown ; but there can be little doubt that they have
been brought by the accident of shipwreck, or by design.
They must feed on the Commehjna, and on the leaves of low
shrubs, for there is no grass to be found ; and they must often,
I feel sure, be pressed for water to drink in the dry season.

No kangaroos were seen or heard of in any of the islands,
but a small species of mouse-like mammal, of which I was
unable to catch a specimen, may be a Ferameles or jumjjing-
mouse. Of Rodents the common rat was — too abundant. No
species of Sciuridse Avere observed. Of Cheiroptera there Avere
scA^eral small species, besides a common Pteropus or " Flying
Fox." There are no deer. One species of Sirenian, probably
the Halicore aiistralis, frequents the shore, and is hunted by
the natiA'es for its iA^ories from Avhich they make earrings.
One frog Avas collected, Avhile snakes and lizards Avere found
in considerable numbers, one of each being a species new to
science. AVhile, out of sixty species of birds, I brought no

machik's gkotjnd-thrush {Geocichla machiki, forbes).

7^ TIMOR-LAUT. 337

fewer than twenty forms, and of the butterflies and insects
nearly one-half, that were undescribed before.

One of the objects of my visit was to determine to what
zoo-geographical province Timor-laut belonged. Lying as
it does at no great distance from Aru and New Guinea on
the east, from Australia to the southward, and from Timor
to the west, it was an interesting question which of them
had behaved most bountifully by it. It is surrounded by a
very deep sea, deeper, so the captain of one of the Dutch
men-of-war surveying in that region just before my return to
Europe informed me, than is represented in most of the charts.
Looking to the birds peculiar to the group, all belong to
Papuan genera (and nearly allied to known Papuan species)
with the exception of a few species, whi^h have their nearest
representatives in Timor or in Australia. The insects, on the
other hand, as collected by me, show a great j^rejjonderance of
Timor over Aru or new Guinea forms, with a slight Australian
tinge. The presence of snakes and frogs is also of great
interest — a new species of the former (Simotes forhesi of
Boulenger) being remarkable as the only one of the genus
known to exist east of Java — when we consider its deep
surrounding sea and all the indications that the Tenimber
group, which is entirely of coral formation, has been elevated,
after a long subsidence above the surface of the sea.

The most interesting discoveries among the birds were a
species of ground-thrush {Geocichla machiki), figured on the
opposite page ; and the finding in Timor-laut of a new species of
Honey-eater (Philemon Umorlaoensis), (the first bird to attract
our attention after landing), mimicked by a new species of
Oriole (Oriolus decijnens). For some time I was quite puzzled
by the difterence of behaviour of certain individuals in flocks
of these birds on the trees. Only after the closest comparison
of the dead birds in my hand was the enigma solved by my
perceiving that the birds were distinct species, of widely
removed families, and I learned later that I had obtained
new examples of that most curious case of mimicry first
detected (among birds) by Mr. Wallace, where an Oriole con-
stantly derives protection from its foes by acquiring tlu; dress
of a bird always of the same powerful and gregarious Honey-
eaters. In the Island of Burn an Oriole accompanies and

338 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

copies a Philemon ; in Ceram and in Timor also, and now in
Timor-laut yet another — the model and the copy— both of
them distinct in each of the islands. When my collection was
laid out for description by Dr. Sclater, the Oriole and the
Honey-eater's dress were so strikingly similar, that the sharp
eye of that distinguished Ornithologist was deceived, and the
tsvo birds were described by him as the same species. Besides
these, another lovely new species of the same family (sec
Frontispiece) of the H(mey-eaters, belonging to the genus
Myzomela, which has been named after the devoted companion
of my travels {Myzomela annabellie) was obtained ; but though
it flitted about at the flowers of the cocoanut palms, and of
an Apocynaceous shrub just at our door, I could not succeed
in shooting a single individual, till on the mainland I at last
secured the one specimen that graced my collection.

On the 20th of September the steamer was due to return ;
but for a week we had been anxiously counting the days, for
we had been obliged, in order to eke out our supplies, to fall
back on roasted heads of Indian corn, which sorely tried our
teeth. We could purchase fowls on rare occasions only, as our
barter articles suiting the tastes of the natives were all gone —
it is a characteristic of the race, as I have said, to give away
nothing, and to part with their possessions only for what they
want at the moment, no matter if something of many times
the value be offered them. Our stock of febrifuges, so often in
demand, and of tea and coffee, Avas exhausted, and above all
we were sadly reduced by the pernicious fever which was diffi-
cult to combat without luxuries we cauld not command.
Boats from Vordate brought in the news that the threatened
Kaleobir attack was really about to be made, tidings which to
our villagers seemed confirmed by the simultaneous recogni-
tion of the great comet of 1882 in our northern sky. Extra
guards were placed, who danced, as is their custom on such
like occasions, round the village god night and day with a
hideous howling chant accompanied by beating of drums
which was equally incessant, and to our fever-strained nerves
execrable and unbearable during the day, but perfectly
maddening in the night. How we longed and looked for the
steamer !

On the 28th, when our larder was absolutely empty, the

IX TIMOR-LAUT. 339

sharp eyes of the natives descried at break of day a thin lino
of smoke on the horizon, and before eight o'clock the Amhouia
had steamed slowly in, and, with a rattle pleasant to our ears,
dropped her anchor a few yards from our door. A couple of
hours later, Avith our precious collections safely on board, we
ourselves stood watching from the deck the crowd of struggling
boats heaving in the troubled water of our screw putting back
to the shore, and on our swarthy and most interesting friends
irazine: after us from the strand, till our little home — the
centre round which, for the rest of our lives, will cluster the
reminiscences of most strange and utterly uncommunicable
thoughts and sensations — sank down behind our horizon,
happy that some of the eager hopes with which we had landed
amongst them a few months before had been gratified, yet feeling
how much there was left undone of what we had wished to
accomplish ; and as the verdure-clad shores faded from our
view the recollection of our dangers and anxieties, which had
been very real, vanished like an evil dream, while the intense
pleasure — whose solidity only a naturalist can really appreciate
— that we had derived from our wanderino-s amid a strano^e
people, and a perfectly new fauna and flora, was henceforth
alone to fill the retrospect of our sojourn among the Tenimber
Islands.

Turning to our letters and newspapers we realised how
isolated had been our situation, when we found that England
had begun and fought out the Egyptian war, and that we were
out in our reckoning both of the day of the week and of the
day of the month.

Heversing the route we had taken in June, we arrived on
the 7th of October in Amboina, where we received a most
cordial welcome from Dr. and Madame ]\rachik, now- installed
in a commodious and pleasantly situated house looking out on
the Bay, and in which there was at my disposal delightful
accommodation for rearranging and preparing my collections
for despatcli to Europe.

I should be very unmindful if I did not record here the
more than friendly attention and care bestowed on us by both
our hosts, during tlio many days of Tenimber fever — more
violently exhibited in Amboina than in Larat — that we had to
endure under their roof.

340 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

APPENDIX TO PART IV

I. On the Cranial Characters of the Natives of Timok-laut. By J. G.
Garson, M.D., F.Z.S. ; Mcmb. Authrop. Inst. ; Anat. Assist. Eoyal
College of Surgeons; Lecturer on Comparative Anatomy, Charing
Cross Hospital.

In the following commtinication I intend to direct attention to the
characters presented by a series of skulls from Timor-laut, a group of
small islands situated between New Guinea and Australia, collected and
brought home by Mr. H. 0. Forbes. Before doing so, it will be well to
recapitulate briefly the chief characters of the inbabitants of the island
observed by Mr. Forbes, and described by him in a paper read last
session before tliis institute, and published in the Journal (vol. xiii.,
\). 8, et scrj.)."

* * * '!• * * *

The osteological remains now to be described were obtained from the
island of Larat, and consi-st of a scries of eleven skulls and crania. Of
these, nine are adult, one that of a young man of about twenty years of
age, and one that of a child.

Four of the skulls appear to be those of males, and six those of women.
The skull of the child is not sufficiently developed to indicate its sex.
The male skulls arc all of a round form — broad in proportion to the
antero-posterior length, and resemble one another in general appearance.
Of the females, tive correspond in form to the male skulls, in being short
and broad, but the sixth differs markedly from the others, in being
narrow antero-posteriorly in proportion to its breadth. The form of the
child's cranium resembles closely that of this last skull. The cranium of
the child has been excluded from the various measurements and averages
given in the subjoined table, now to be discussed, but that of the young
man is included, as I was unwilling to diminish the series by rejecting
it, especially as it seems to have attained its full development, except in
a few respects which will be noted ; though I am aware that it is contrary
to custom to include any skull in which the basilar suture is not united.
The male and female round skulls are separated from one another, and
the latter are grouped apart from the long narrow female skull, many of
the characters of which are entirely different from those of the other
females.

Capacity. — The avera-re cranial capacity of the four male skulls
measured with shot according to Broca's method, is 1607 cc, or 47 cc.

* As this has been fully done in the foregoing pages, it is unnecessary to
recapitulate them here ; consequently, this paragraph is omitted from this
reprint of Dr. Garson's valuable paper. — H. 0. F.

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 341

more than that of male European skulls, the average capacity of 317 of
which Topinard found to be 1560 cc. That of the round-headed females
is 1,311 cc, or 64 cc. less than European female skulls, 232 of -which,
measured by Topinard, averaged 1,375 cc. While the capacity, therefore,
of the male skulls from Timor-laut is, on an average, larger than those
of European, that of the females is less than in Europeans of the same sex.
The difference in capacity between males and females of Timor-laut is 296
cc. ; that between Europeans is 1S5 cc. The individual range of
capacity is considerable, one of the male skulls (No. 10) being no less
than 220 cc. smaller than any of the others. The largest capaeitv, that
of No. 4, is 1,780 cc, and the smallest 1,395 cc, that of No. 10. in the
females the range is from 1,405 to 1,240 cc The difference, then, between
the largest and smallest male skulls is 385 cc, and 155 cc between those
of females. The long-headed female has a cai:)acity of 1,400 cc

Ceph'iJlc Index. — In the round skulls the relative proportion of the
breadth to the length varies little in the two sexes ; the cephalic index
of the males averaging 88'1 and of the females 860. Eeference to the
table will show that the lower index of the females is chiefly caused by
the almost undeformed cranium. No. 2, which has an index of only 78'y.
All these skulls belong to Broca's class of true brachycephalic (skulls in
which tlie cephalic index is over 83'33) except No. 2, which is sub-
brachycephalic (between 80"01 and 83'33), on account of its Avidth being
less than, while the length is the same as that of the others. The long
narrow female skull has an index of 71T, and belongs, therefore, to Broca's
true dolichocephalic group.

Heiyht Index. — This averages about 2- higher in the male brachycephalic
skulls than in the corresponding females, being 80-6 in the former,
and 824 in the latter. The cephalic index of the males we found
was higher by the same amount than that of the females. In the
dolichocephalic female the right index is much lower tlian in the
brachycephalic skulls of the same sex, a condition which the late
Professor Eolleston found usi;ally to obtain. The height of the skulls is in
all instances less than the breadth, except in the female No. 2. The
indices of height and breadth above given cannot be taken as strictly
accurate, owing to the artificial flattening of the posterior or postero-
lateral portion of most of the crania, but are as nearly accuiate as cir-
cumstances will admit, and general deductions may probably be relied
upon.

The height in proportion to the breadth (the latter being taken as 100)
is in the males as 91-2, and in the females as 95'6 to 100.

(Jircumferencp. — The horizontal circumference of the brachycephalic
skulls averages in the males 507 ram., that of the females 475 mm., while
the transverse vertical circumference of the former is 456 mm., and of the
latter 424'6 mm. The total longitudinal circumference averages in the
males 5()r2 mm., and in the females 473 mm. In each of the three
circumference measurements, therefore, the female skulls are on an
average about 31 mm. smaller than the males. The dolichocephalic
female shows considerable difterences in the various circumferences from
the i^revious skulls of the same sex. Its horizontal and total longitudinal
circumferences arc each 25 mm. greater than the average of these
measurements in the brachycephalic skulls, while its transveri^e vertical
circumference is 17'6 mm. less. The increased size of the two first
circimiferences in this skull is due to the greater antero-po.sterior length
of the frontal and especially the parietal bones; the other segments being
almost the same in both varieties of skulls. This accords with the fact
pointed out by M. Gratiolet, that in women the elongation of the cranium

342 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

depends essentially on the length of the temporal region, and is the
permanent retention of a childlike character dolichocephally ; being due,
he has shown, to a relative development of bones which varies with age.
It is essentially occipital in the infant, temjMval in the child, and frontal
in the adult man.

The form of the foramen magnum varies considerably, being in some
elongated antcro-posteiiorly, in others ahnost circular.

Gnathic Index.— On an average the male skulls are mesognathous
(having an index between 98 and 103); the brachycephalic females
belong to the same group. Considerable variety is exhibited individually
by the male skulls, one being prognathous and another orthognathous ;
the same variability is not exhibited by the females, all of them being
mesognathous. The dolichocephalic female is prognathous.

Malar Height. — The development of the malar bones is usually some-
what greater in the brachycephalic skulls than in Europeans, but consi-
derable individual variety is observable which confix-ms the observations of
Mr. Forbes on living natives. The malars are small in the dolichocephalic
female. The depression on the malar process of the maxilla or maxillo-
malar notch, observed by Professor flower to be present in the Fijians,
may here be seen in the skulls where the malars are most strongly
developed.

The Orbits. — The form of the orbits varies considerably, some being
wider in proportion to the height than otiiers; but the averages show
both sexes to be niesoseme (index from 8S to 89).

The Nasal Index. — ^The form of the nasal aperture presents a certain
degree of variation, the index varying from 48'1 to 55'8 in the brachy-
cephalic males, and in the females of that class from 49 to G0"5, the averages
of the former being 62 and of the latter 5r3. The average index of the
males places them at the platyrhine end of the mesorhine group (between
48 and 53), while the females are just within the platyrhine class (above
E3). Two males and three females are mesorhine, and two males and
two females arc platyrhine. The dolichocephalic skull is mesorhine.

The Facial angle formed by the meeting of the alveolar point of the
ophryo-alvcolar face-line and the auriculo-alveolar base line averages 70°
in the males, and nearly G&° in the females. As differences of opinion
may exist as to the value of the angle taken in this v.ay I have added the
nisi-alveolar length as well as the basi-nasal and basi-alveolar measure-
ments. With these three measurements the relation of the alveolar point
to the cranio-facial axis of Huxley, or basi-nasal line upon which the
angle of gnathism depends, can easily be calculated, and the facial angle
thus formed aptly compared with the gnathic index. A further reason for
the nasi-alveolar length finding a place in the table is that some anato-
mists, without good reason, consider it to be preferable to the ophryo-
alveolar length as the measurement of facial height, owing to its being
more definite than the latter.

Ilegional characters of the cranial portion. — The glabella is feebly
developed in both sexes, being represented by Nos. O'l of Broca's des-
criptive outlines, except in one of the females in whom it equals No. 2.
The superciliary ridges are likewise feebly marked, the rebeing usually
only a slight boss projecting obliquely upwards and outwards from the
glabella, but not extending any distance over the orbits. The forehead
recedes slightly, but the degree of recession varies somewhat, being more
marked in two brachycephalic females than in any of the others ; while
in the dolichocephalic females it is the most perpendicular. Tubera are
well marked on the parietal bones of the young male skull, and are
associated with a narrow base, as is seen by the bi-auricular breadth

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 343

being less than that of any of the other males. These conditions are
usually concomitant, as was shown by Professor AViesbach, and are
indications of a skull not having attained its full development, as in this
case, or of the permanent retention of a child-like character when occurr-
ing in the fully adiilt skull, as is not uncommon in women. Epiteric
bones are present in three of the female crania, Nos. 1, 7. and 9. In the
male skull No. 10 the squamosals articulate with the frontal, the alai
sphenoid not intervening between thera, as is usually the case. The
zygomatic arches can be seen iu most instances projecting beyond the
outline of the cranium in the fronto- parietal region — that is to say, the
skulls are usiially phsenozygous, though more so in some cases than in
others. In order to estimate the amount of zygomatic projection, or
the relation of the maximum cranio-facial breadth to the fronto-parietal
breadth at the stephanion, Topinard has suggested the formation of an
index from th(! bi-zygoniatic and bi-stephanic breadths, in place of the
angle of Quatrefiiges, which can only be measured by means of a comjili-
cated goniometer. Taking the former breadth as 100, 1 find that the bi-
z.vgoste])hanic index of the brachycephalic male skulls averages 87G, and
of the female 87"-4, and of the dolichocephalic female 94"2.

In order to compare these averages with those of other races, I have
worked this out in the series of Andamanese skulls and of Fijians pub-
lished by Professor Flower in the volumes of the "Journal of the
Anthropological Institute " for 1879 and 1880, and the following are the
results obtained : —

Bl-zygostcphanic Index.

Andamanese ., 12 malis, 88-3; 12 females, 91-5.
Timor-laut .. 3 „ 87Mi; 5 „ 87"4.
Fijian .. .. G „ 80-4; 5 „ 85-5.

Before its value can be riglitly estimated it will require to be worked
out in a much more extended series. It may be stated, however, that
crania with a bi-zygostt;phanic index of under 90 are phsenozygus. The
development of the inion is usually represented by Broca's descriptive
figures 1 or 2. Tiiough not very prominent the inion and the inner or mesial
extremities of the superior curved lines are well developed and rugged, a
condition to which. Professor Thane kindly reminded me. Professor Ecker
has attributed consideralile importance as being indicative of a simian
character, these ridges being the representative in man of the crests so
well marked in the skull of the orang-outan and other anthropomorphous
apes. The sutures are, as a rule, simple, varying in the series from 1 to
3 of Broca's numbers, both in regard to complexity and degree of oblite-
ration. In the dolichocephalic female the frontal suture is metopic
(s'je p. 345), but in none of tiie other skulls does this condition obtain.
The wormian bones are small in most instances. All the brachycephalic
skulls of botli sexes exhibit more or less llattcning in the occipital or
parieto-occipital region, such as would be produced by laying an infant,
without any soft material under the head, in a cradle, like that exhibited
here by Mr. Forbes from Timor-laut. The dolichocephalic female and
child's skulls show no sign of flattening. The basilar suture is entirely
obliterated in all instances except in the youth; no abnormality is to be
observed in any case in the under surface of the tranium.

lieijional chara-tcrs offavxil portiuii. — In most instances the face has a
flat appearance. The axes of the orbits are in some instances more
horizontal than in others. The inter-orbital portion, though not showing
great variation in actual width, differs in form on account of the projec-
tion of the nasal bones being greater, and the ascending process of the

344

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

maxillaries being flatter, in some instances than in others. It occurred
to me that this variation might be expressed by measuring the angle for-
med by the nasal bones and ascending processes of the maxillaries at the
level immediately below that of the dacryon. This measurement, which I
propose to call the nasi-maxillury an<iJ(',\H different in its object from that
of M. de Merejkowsky, which ascertains only the projection of the nasal
bones or maxillary processes.

The outline of nose is represented by Broca's descriptive numbers
1 and 8. The first of these indicates a nose with a low bridge turned up-
wards at the tip ; the latter a straight nose with a higher bridge tlian the
other. We have therefore identified on the skulls the two forms of nose
observed by Mr. Forbes in the living subject. As a rule the straight nose
is elevated at the root, and the naso-maxillary angle is higher than in the
hooked nose, which is flat at the root. The nasi- malar angle is high in

NOHM.TJ FRONTALIS ET LATERALIS OF THE MALE BEACHTCEPnALIC SKULL, NO. 4.
(WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE.)

all instances. The lower margin of the nasal aperture is usually well de-.
fined, but slopes slightly in f-ome instances into the alveolar portions of
the maxillfe. The nasal spine is feebly developed, being represented by
Nos. 1 and 2 of Broca. The alveolar portion of the maxilla? has become
so atrophied after loss of the teeth in three skulls (one male and two
females) as to be reduced to almost a narrow rim of bone; in these the
alveolar height has not been measured. A correspondingly atrophied
condition likewise obtains in the alveolar border of the respective mandi-
bles. In the others in which the teeth were complete at the time of death
this portion of the face is short ; the measurements, however, indicate
a "-reater estimate of the vertical distance between the floor of the nose
and the alveolar plane, as in most instances there is a considerable degree
of alveolar prognathism. The maxillae are broad in comparison to their
length, especially in the case of the male No. 10, where the maxillary or

7.V TIMOR-LAUT.

345

palatal index is no less than 140-7. The palate is therefore markedly of
the parabolic form. In this skull it is also very high. The maxillae are
narrowest iu the dolichocephalic female. In all cases the posterior edge
of the vomer slopes considerably forwards as well as downwards.

The characters of the mandible can be only imperfectly studied, it
being lost in some instances and much atrophied in others. The chief
character seems to be the absence of prominence of the chin : the sym-
phesial angle is consequently high, approaching a right angle.

Dentition is normal in all the skulls except the male No. -i, in which the
last upper molars, or wisdom teeth, are absent from non-development.
The skull is known, however, to Mr. Forbes to have belonged to a man be-
yond middle age. The last molars have not been tally acquired in the skull
of the youth Xo. 11. In size the teeth are large but not abnormally so,
and are stained bLick in two of the male skulls, Nos. 4 and 10, and in the
female skulls Nos. 7 and 1. In the male No. 10, the upper incisors and

NORM^ FnOXTALIS ET LATERALIS OP THE FEMALE DOLICHOCErHALIC SKVLL, XO 1.
(with the PERMISSION OF THE COUXCIL OF THE ANTHROrOLOGICAL INSTITUTE.)

canines have been filed away on the anterior surface, and stained black,
making them more spade-like. This custom of deforming the teeth, and
staining them, is practised very commonly in Java and Birma, and else-
where. The incisors and canines being absent in the other male skulls, it
is impossible to say whether these teeth were deformed in them also.
In the females there is a trace of a similar deformation in No. 2, but the
filed teeth are not stained artificially. Grinding down the anterior upper
and lower teeth horizontally, and staining them, seems to have been
practised in Nos. 1 and 9. In the other skulls the teeth have been lost,

Rehitian af tlir inhabittinfs of Thnnr-Iuut to tifose of ad jarent countries. —
That the .skulls just described are not those of a pure race is very evident.
Two very distinct types can be made out, namely, the brachycephalic and
the dolichocephalic, the former greatly predominating in numtier. Both
from the information Mr. Forbes has given us as to their appearance, and
from the skulls themselves, there is no difficulty in recognising a strong

346 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Malay element in the population. The male skull, No. 4, and the female,
Jso. 6, are typicaHy Malayan in their characters, especially in possessing
large open rounded orldts and smooth forehead, the superciliary ridges
and glabella being almost entirely absent. 'J'he other brachycephalic
skulls, though not presenting such a striking affinity, agree more or less
with the type, but give evidence of mixed characters. Ihe dolicho-
cephalic skull is, on the other hand, markedly of the Papuan type, and
coi responds so closely as to be undistinguishablc from two crania
obtained twenty miles inland from Port Moresby, Xew Guinea, in the
College of Surgeons' Museum, also from another from the Solomon
Islands. Along with ihis ibrm of shell Mr. Forbes informs me is
associated frizzly hair and dark skin.

The examination of the cranial characters of the inhabitants of Timor-
laut as illustrated by the skulls before us shows that the peopling of this
island forms no exception to what is usually found in the various groups
of islands in the Polynesian Archipelago. From its close proximity to
New Guinea, perhaps more of the Papuan element might have been
expected.

The relative proportions of the two races in any particular place seem
to vary considerably, however, and till more is known of thehistory of this
part ot' the world, the distribution of its inhabitants will not he understood.
Valuable contributions to our knowledge of this vexed question have been
made by the writings of M. Quatrefagts, Professors Flower and Keane, Mr.
Staniland Wake, and others. Series of skulls and skeletons like the
present from different districts, with accounts of the inhabitants, aro
always valuable additions, and assist materially to unravel the ethnology
of this interesting part of the globe.

IN TIMOR-LAUT.

347

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A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

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IN TIMOR-LAUT.

351

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352

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Size of

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7.V TIMOR-LAUT. 353

Notes ox the Table of Measurements.

All the measurements given in the preceding table correspond to
those recommended by Broca in the " Instructions Craniologiques "
(Paris, 1875), except the following, some of which are not given in that
work : —

The transverse arcs. — These are measured with the tap^ from the point
on the ridge at the posterior root of the zygoma immediately above tlie
middle of the external auditory meatus, where the ridge is crossed by
the auriculo-bregmatic line (the courhe sns-auriculare of Broca) over the
respective parts of the cranium, to the corresponding point on the
opposite temporal bone.

Naso-alveolar leajth. — From the nasion to the alveolar point.

Palatine region. — The maxillary length is measured from the alveolar
point to the middle of a line drawn across the hinder borders of the
maxillary tuberosities. This is easily done by stretching a piece of fine
wire across the back of the mouth, tlae wire resting on each side in the
groove between the pterygoid and the tuberosity. The width is taken
between tlie outer borders of llie alveolar arch immediately above the
middle of the second molar tooth.

Facial angle. — The angle formed by the meeting of the auriculo-alveo-
lar base line with the ophryo-alveolar fcice line at the alveolar point
measured with Broca's median goniometer.

Nasi-malar angle. — The angle formed by the nasal bones and the ex-
ternal margins of the orbits at a point a little below the fronto-malai
articulation.

Nasi-maxillary a^igle. — Exi^lained in the text, page 344.

Basilar angle — This is the angle X B Y of the " Instructions," p. 92,
or the naso-basio-oi^isthial angb.

Bi-zygostephanic /»r/ex.— Defined in the text, page 343.

Conoroid height. — From the goniou to tlie top of the coronoid process.

Gonio-symphesial height measured with the calipers.

The size of the glabella, nasal bones, and spine, inion, wormian bones,
and wear of teeth, are indicated by Broca's descriptive numbers given
in the " Instructions."

Kxplanation of Plate (pp. 344, 345).

All the figures represent the skulls with the alveolo-condylar i^lane
horizontal.

The j)hotozincographs were reduced from drawings by Mr, J. G.
Goodchild, the outlines of the skulls from which they are taken having
been previously geometrically jirojected by means of Broca's stereograph
by myself.

Tiiis paper is reproduced from the 'Journal of the Anthropological
Institute ' for May, 1884. (H.O.F.)

354

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

II.— LIST OF PLANTS FEOM TIMOE-LAUT.

Compiled from the Author s Herbarium, as determined at the Royal Gardens,
Kew, along with a small Collection made by Native Collectors employed
by Resident Riedel.

Clematis s-p.

Anamirt I Cocculus, W. & A .
Ocbrccarpus ovalifolius, T. And. ?
Sida huniilis W. var. lepens.

rhombifo'ia, L.
Abutilon iudiciim, Don.

gruveolens, W. & A.
Hibiscus surattensi.-:, L.

tetrapbyllus, Koxb.
Gossypium barb^deiise, L.
Thesposia po])nluea, Corr.
Sterculia fcetida. L.
Melocliia odorata, Forst.

velutina, Bedd. var. gla-

bratii.
pubesceas, Bl.
Corchovus tiilociilaris, li.
Murray a exotica, L. var.
Glycosiiiis pentiiphylla, Corr.
sapindoides, Lindl.
Tristellateia australasica, A. R.
Owenia (may be O. cerasifera, F. M.).
Calopbyllum Inopbylluni, L.
Dodonsea viscosa, L.
Vitis coriacea, Bliq.
Strombosia sp.
Erioplossum edule, Bl.
Flemingia slrobilifera, R. Br.
Desmoilium uinbcllatum, DC.
Poiigamia glabra, A^eut.
Phaseolus spp.
Blucuna (Stizolobium) sp.
Canavalia obtusifolia, DC.
Vigna lutea, A. Gr.
Dolicbos Lablab, L.
Cajanus iudicus, Spr.
Indigofera unifoliata.
Dichrostachys nutans ?
Cynoraetra nirairtora, L.

hijuga, Sp.
Cassia javanica, L.

alrtta, L.
Cajsalpinia pulcbcrrinin, S\v.

Nuga, Ait.
Bauhinia Blancoi, Bentb.
Pempbis acidula, Forst.
Bruguiera caryopliylloidcs, Bl.
Lumnitzera eoceinej, W. & A.
Peltopborum ferrugineuui, Btb
Eugenia javanica. Lam.

aff. javanicaj.
Luffa cylindrica, Roera.
Momordica Clmrantia, L.

Zebneria afF. mucronatsB.
Delarbrea sp.

Sesiivium Portiilacastrum, L.
Cariip;i moluccensis, L.
Portulaca oleracea, L.
Bryophyllura calyciiiuni, Salisb.
Randia spp.
Ixora sp.

aff. I. timorensis, Done.
Psycliotria sp.
Morinda citrifolia, L.
Cerium Roxburgbiaiiinn, Bcnth.
Vernonia cinerea. Less.
Blumea membranacea, DC.
Wedelia biflora, DO.
Bideiis bipiiinata, L.
Diospyros inaritima, Bl.
Maesa sp.

Jasminura lancifoliuni, Dene.
Dischidia sp.
Marsdenia sp.

Gyiunema vel Sarcolobns sp.
Mitreola oldenlaudioides. Wall.
Alstonia speclabilis, Br.
Taberniemontana piirviHora, Poir.

oricntalis, R. Br.
Cordia siibcordata, Lam.
Ipomoea Turpethura, L.

cymosa, R. & Schult.
Hewittia bicolor, W. & A.
Convolvulus parviflorus, Vahl.
Tournefoitia sarmentosa. Lam.
Solanum verbascifolium, L.
Lycopeisicum esculentuin, Mill.
Physalis minima, L.
Datura alba, Nees.
Capsicum frutesccns, L.
Buclmera angusta.
Leucas dccenidentata, Sm.
Coleus SL'utellarioides, Benth.
Ociraum canum, L.
Hyptis spicigerii, Lnm.
Premna obtusifolia, R. Br.
Vitex trifolia, L.

aff. V. Negundo, L.
Clerodendron longiflorum, Dene, vel

sp. aff.
Barleria Prionotis, L.
Dilivaria ilicilolia, Jacq.
A sy stasia (an) ehelonoides, Nees.
Hypoestes floiibundn, R. Br. var.
Eraiitbemum sp. ( ? variabile.)
I Deeriugia celosioides, R. Br.

IN TIMOR-LAUT.

355

.^ua scandens, Wall., vel velutina,
Miq.
san;:juinolenta, Bl.
Aniarautus caudatus, L.
Salsola Tragus, L.
INIyristlca insipida, R. Rr.
Aristolochia sp.
Piper sp. afF. P. canino, Dietr.
Lorantlius (Dendrophtlioe) sp. aff. L.

rigido. Wall.
Mauiliot utilissima, Pol.l.
Acalypha indica, L.
Phyllantlius diversifolius, Mlill. Arg.

vel sp. aff.
ExcKcariLi Agallocha, ^liill. Arg.
Mallotus albus, Jliill. Arg.

repandus, Mull. Arg.
Trewia sp.

Spoiiia timorensis, Dcao.
Fatua i)ilo,sa. Gaud.

lanceolata. Dene.
Pipturus velutinus, Wed I.
Fleurya intenupta, Gaud.

Pouzolzia peutandra, Benn.
Urostigma sp.

Ficus sp. aff. acanthophyllsD, Miq.
Balaiiopliora sp.

Dendrobium antennatum, Lindl.
Phalfieaopsie, Fitzg.
Dioscorca spp.
Cordylino terminalis, Kth.
Coinmelina nuditlor.i, L.
Cocos nucifera, L.
Borassus flabelliforniis, L
Metro.Kylou laeve, Mart.
Pandanus sp.
Aroidea; spp.
Cyperus peunatu^, Lam.
Setaria italica, Beauv.
Sorghum vulgare. Pars.
Polypodium iiioide.-', I. am.
Pteris tripartita, Lam.
Asplenium galeatum, Lara.
Vittaria elongata, Sw.
Lycopodium cariuatum, Des.
Phleginaria, L.

III.— LIST OF THE BIEDS OF TIMOR-LAUT.*

In order to give as correct a list as possible of the Avifauna of the
Tenimber Islands, I liave reproduced the original descriptions of my
collections given by Dr. Sclater, in the 'Proceedings' of the Zoological
Society, (1883, pp. 48, 194). I have also included the species recently
described by Dr. ^Meyer, from specimens obtained by Mr. Eeidel's hunters,
in the paper read by him at the Ornithological Congress in Vienna in
1881, entitled, " Neue und unbenligend bekennte Vogel Nester und Eier
aus dem Ostindischen Archipel im Kiinigl. Zool. Mus. zu Dresden."
Some of these species were also met with by myself, biat I liave in many
cases not been able to recognise their distinctness from other i>revioiisly
described forms. As many of these differences of opinion have been the
subject of discussion between Dr. Meyer and myself, I have thought it as
well to reproduce my published remarks in the present appendix.

I. ACCIPITRES.

1. AsTun ALBivENTRis, Salvad.

Urospizias albiveiitris, Sdlv., Mcycr, loc. cit.

2. Hali^tus leucogaster, Gm.

Cuncwna leucogaster, Gm., Meyer, loc. cit.

3. Haliastur girreneha, v.

4. Baza subcristata, (iould.

5. rANDioy leucocephalus, Gould.

6. CeRCHNEIS M0LUCCENSI8, H. & J.

Tinnunrulus mohiccensis, Sclater, loc. cit.

7. NiNox FORBESi, Sclatcr, loc. cit.

Supra rufescenti-brunnca, fere unicolor, in alarum tectricibus et scapulari-
bus fasciolis albis variegata ; fronte et svperciliis albis ; alarum

* See Reports of the Timor-laut Commiltee in Rep. Brit. Assoc. 1881, p. IL'7,
18S2, p. 275, and 1883.

350 A NATUIiALIST'S V/ANDEItlNGS

remigibus ierreno-brunneis, nigro tranitfasciatia ; siibtus dorso concolor,
mento alhicante, ventre albo trarisfasciato ; tarsis, omnino phimosis, rum
suhaJarlbus rufis unicoloribus ; alarum ct Cauda; pagina infer iore pall ide
corylino-brannca nigro reyulariter transfascinta ; rostri nigri apice
flavicante; digitis fuscis sctis obtedis : long, iota 110, alee 7'4, eaudci
*4-5, tarsi IS.
. Hah. Liitur, Timor-Iaut.

Obs. Sp. quoad colores N. hantii maximc affinis, set! facie alba fasciis
ventris albis, et alis subtus nigro vittatis diversa.

Tlie single specimen of this Owl is a male, obtained at Lutur on
August 9, 1881. It is noted: Iiides golden; bill jiale cinereous; feet
pale yellow, covered ■uitli bristly liairs ; soles of feet nearly orange."

I have dedicated this apparently distinct sijccies to its discoverer,
Mr. Henry 0. Forbes, F.Z.S.

8. Strix souorcula, Sclater.

Supra terreno-fusca JIauicante variegata, et punctis rotundis albis regulari-
ter aspersa ; disco facicdi amplo albo, margiue nigricanti-brunneo
circumdato ; macula anteocidarl nigricante ; remigibus fuscis, nigro
traiisfasclatis, in pojoniis externis ftdvo macidatis et albido vermicu-
latis ; caudx nigricante, tctniis quinque fulvis transfasciata et albido
vermiculata ; subtus cdba, pifccipue in ventre mactdis rotundis nigris
fulvo clnctls aspersa, subalarlbus ventre concoloribus ; tarsis postice fere
omnino plumulis obtedis, antlce diqitos versus setis paucis obsitis ;
rostro et pedibus camels : long, tota 11"5, ala; 8"5, caudce 3'5, tarsi 2"2.
Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Obs. Specie? novce-hollandki' affinis et ejusdem formse, sed crassih'e
valde minore, tarsorum plumis brevioribus et dorsi punctis rotundiori-
bus distinguenda

Mr. Sharpc, who has kindly examined the single skin of this Owl sent,
is of ojjinion that it belongs to a species allied to Slrix novce-lwllandia;,
but easily recognisable by its inferioj.' size.

The example was obtained on Larat on the Otth of September, 1882,
and is labelled : — " Female : irides dark brown ; bill, legs, and feet flesh-
colour ; legs covered with flesh-coloured bristles."

II. PSITTACI.

9. Tantgnathus subaffinis, Sclater.

Flavicanti-viridis, in jnleo et capitis lateribus j^rasitms, in dorso postico
cceruleo lavatus ; ah.s viridibus ; scapidariiim apicibus, campterio ulari
extus et tectricum majorum murginibus ca^ruleis ; secundariorum tectri-
cibus flavo marginatis ; cauda stipra viridi, apice flavicante, subtus
obscure auridenta ; subalaribus viridibus cceruleo mixtis, alarum pagina
inferiore nigricante; rostro ruberrimo ; pedibus nigris; long, tota 13'0,
ales 9 5, caudce 6'0.
Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Obs. Species T. affini maximc affinis, sed dorso flavicante viriJi vix
cseruleo lavato, diversa.

The single specimen is a female, obtained ia Larat on August 8, 1882.
" Irides cream-yellow, Avith inner ring of pale gamboge.'"

10. Geoffroius keiensis, Salvad.

G. timorlaoeyisis, Meyer, loc. cit. ^

The Geoffroius determined by Dr. Sclater to be G. heyensis (Salv.)
has been elevated into a new species, G. timorlaoensis by Dr. Meyer.

7^ TIMOR-LAUT. 357

He admits that the Feparation is based on very minute diflferences,
which,' however, he beh"eves will lie found constant. " Geofroifis [timur-
Jaoensis^, G. keyensi, Salva., simillimus, ^ed minor et primariai extimsR
pogonio externo •vircsccnti diversus." On comparing the Timor-laut
birds with Ke specimens in the British Miiseuni determined by Count
Salvadori, the case stands as follows: — Timor-laut skins vary from
210-290 millim., while G. Jceyensis (Salv.) ranges from 235-255 millim.
Length of wing in the former 165-170 millim., and in (/. /.eijensis
(Salv.) 175-185 millim. The tail is shorter in 6". tuiwrhioensis than in
G. keyensis ; while the tarsus agrees in both. In Timor-laut speci-
mens the external web of the outermost primary, where in the upper
portion the colour is hJue, and in the lower qreen, exactly agrees
with a si^ecimen from Ke, of the Challenger collection, determined as
G. keyensis by Salvadori. Both these are males. A female from Ke has
the same region of this feather blue throughout its length ; while a
female from Timor-laut has a very narrow yellowish edge to the green-
blue margin of the primary.. A female obtained by the Challenger natu-
ralists, also determined by Salvadori as G. kcyenst's, is identical in colo-
ration, while, lastly, the colour of the under surfaces of the wings can
scarcely be fletected to diifer. It would appear, therefore, so far as the
skins from Timor-laut and Ke, in the British Museum and in my own
collection, afford material for forming an opinion, that these differential
characters will not be found to have the constancy that Dr. Meyer has
expected. The wing measurements certainly are less in Timor-laut
specimens. It is jn'obable that the differences in coloration are due
to age only, and are not sufficient to separate the Ke from the Tenimber
birds. [H. 0. F.]

11. ECLECTUS RiEEELi, Mcycr, P. Z. S. 3881, p. 917. Sclater, loc. cit.
PJ. XXVI.

Dr. A. B. Meyer has accurately described the female of this fine
species.

All the green skins are marked " ^ ,"' and all the red " $ ." The male
not yet having been described, I give short diagnoses of both sexes.

$. Liefe vlridis, capite clariore, subcaudaUhus flavicante t Indus ; stib-
alarihus et hypochondriis coccineis ; campterio aJarl et remigum prima-
rioruin marginihus externis et seciindariorum {extus dorso concoJortun')
apicihus cicruleis ; alarum pagina inferiore nigra ; cauda supra viridi
dorso concolori, suhtus nigra, apice plus quam semipollicari ■ ahrupte
flavo ; rectrice una utrinque extima in pogonio exteriore cxruleo noiato ;
rcstro superiorii rubra, apice flavicante; inferiore nigra: long, iota
lis, alw 8-7, caud,v4:-6.
$. Rubra punicea, capite et carpore subtus coccineis; crisso flavo ; camp-
terio alari et remigum primariarum marginibus externis cxi'uleis; cauda
supra ad basin viridi in rubrtim transeunte, ad apicem late flava, sttbtus
flava ad basin nigricante ; rostra nigra ; crassitie pxiulo minore.
JIab. insulus Tcniiuberenses.

Of the four .skins in the present collection, two males (green) are from
Larat, and one male and one female from Lutur.

As I have remarked (P. Z. S. 1883, p. 49), there can be no longer any doubt
that Krlf'ctiis ririlrli is (jnite a distinct S])ecies of the genus, characterised
l)y the broad well-defined yellow tail-end of the male, and liy the absence
of the blue on the back of the neck and on the belly in the female.
Neglecting E, westcrmanni and Eclectus cornelia, of which wo do not know

358 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the opposite sexes or the localities, we are now acquainted with both
sexes and the patriae of four species of these anomalous Parrots, dis-
tributed as follows : —

(1) E. pedoruUs (Salvad. op. cit. p. 197), of New Guinea and the Aru
and Ke islands, extending to New Britain, New Ireland, and the Solomon
Islands.

(2) E. roratus (Salvad. p. 206), of the island group of Halmahera, i.e.
Halmahera, Ternate, Batchiau, Morty, and Obi. .

(3) E. cardinalis (Salvad. p. 210), of the island group of Ceram, i.e.
Ceram, Amboina, and Boru.

(4) E. riedeli, of the Tenimber group.

The males of these four species are very similar in colouring; but with
the help of Dr. Salvadori's diagnosis of the first three we may separate
them as follows :

A. Majores : cauda supra Cffirulco variegata.

Cauda miuus ca^rulea ...... (1) pectnralig.

Cauda magis cajrulea ...... (2) roratus.

B. Minores : cuuda supra viridi, subtus nigra.

Cauda apice angusto flavicante .... (3) cardinalis.
Cauda) fascia apicali distincte flava . . . (4) riedeli.

The female of E. riedeli, as already mentioned, is very easily distin-
guished from the same sex of the first three si^ecies by the absence of
the blue neck-band and of the blue on the abdomen. As regards its
yellow under tail-coverts and yellow tail-end, it comes nearest to E.
roratus.

12. Eos RETICULATA, S. Milll.

13. Neopsittacus euteles, T. «

14. Cacatua sanguinea, Gould.

To my great surprise this Cacatua is not C. citrinocristata, as I liad
suspected. The original specimens of C. sanguinea were obtained at Port
Essmgton in N. Australia; so that its occurrence in the Timor-laut group
is not after all so very remarkable.

III. PlCAKI.*:.

15. Saueopatis chloris, Bodd.

16. S. AUSTRALASIA and var. minor, Meyer, n. var.

17. S. SANCTA, Y. & H.

IV. Passeres.

18. PiEZOEHYNCHUS CASTUS, Sclater.

Monarcha castus, Scl . P. Z. S. 1883, loe. sup. cit.

Supra nigtr ; pileo et regione auricidari ulhis, fronte et tcenia nucham
cingente nigris circumdatis ; dorso summo tcenice nucliali proximo,
ttropygio et tectricibus alarum minoribus cum scapuJarium marginibus
externis albis ; suhtus albiis, gutture nigra, macidis tribus albis ornato ;
cauda alba, rectricibus tribus externis albo late terminatis ; subalaribus
et remigum pogcniis internis albis ; rostri plumbei tomiis albicantibus ;
pedibus plumbeis : Jong, tota 5"7, aloi 2'7, cauda; 2'8.

Hab. Lutur, Timor-la at.

Obs. Affinis 31. leucoti, sed gula nigra distinctus.

The single example is marked "Male: irides reddish brown; bill
lavender; legs and feet ditto ; September 1882."

Iir TIMOR-LAUT. 359

Heteeanax. Sharpe, gen. nov. (erepor = alter, <ti'a| = rex) is closely allied
.to the Australian genus Sizura ; but the bill is narrower, less flattened
"and strongly compressed, so that it is higher than broad at the notrils.

ID. Heteranax mundus, Sclater.

Monarcha mundus, Scl. P. Z. S., 1883, loc. cit.
Suvra obscure cinerens, frunte lato, capitis lateribus et tectricihus alarum
iotis nigris ; subtus albits, mento et plaga
gulce media nigris; caitda nigra, recti icum
quatuor latercdium apicibus latis albis ;
subalaribus albis, remigum pagina inferiore
cinerea; rostro compresso, colore plumbeo,
gonyde ascendente ; pedibus nigris; long,
tot a G'O, alee 3"2, caudce 2"7.
JIab. Ins. Tenimberenses, Larat et Yamdena.
This species seems to be allied to M. moro-
tensis, M. bernsteini and M. niqriinentum, but
has an unusually compressed bill, of ^vhich ^'^/^ ^y^;^^;^^ "J'^^.J^J'^^^

., • 1- \ ±^ 11 OF BILL OF OF BILL OF

the gonys is slightly curved upwards. ^ ,,„„,^^,^,^ p ^^^^^^

20. Monarcha nitidus, Salvadori. (with perjussiox of cot:ncil

21. EniPiDURA hamadryas, Sclater. of zool. soc.)
Supra castanea, in capite postico et cervice magis fuscescens, fronte dorso

conrolore ; subtus pallide cervina, torque guttiwali nigro ; gida alba; alls
caudaque nigricantibus, illis rii/o anguste marginatis ; hujus reclricibus
extcrnis cinerascenfe albo late terrninatis ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long,
tota 5'7, aloi 2'3, caudce 3'2.
JIab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensom.

Obs. Proxima L'. dnjadi (Gould, B. N. G. pt. ii. pi. 11), sed cervice
postica rufesconte nee fusca et alarum tcctricibus rufo marginatis,
dignoscenda.

22. Ehipidura fusco-rufa, Sclater.

Supra obscure terreno-fusca, in dorso rufescenti tinda ; alis nigricantibus,
tectricum minorum apicibus et secundariortim marginibus externis late
riifis; subtus rufa, mento et gutture toto ad medium pectus cdbis ; sub-
alaribus rujis ; remigum marginibus internis fulvis ; caudce nigricantis
rectricibus tribus externis ivtis et jxiris jiroximi apicibus rnfis ; rostro et
pedibus nigris. Long, tota 7'0, alee 33, caudce 3"4.
$ . Mari similis.

JIab. insulas Tenimberenses Larat, Molu et Lutur.
Obs. Sp. rostro robusta lato, cauda parum graduata fusco et rufo
bipartita insignis.

There are 14 specimens of this apparently new and very distinct
lihipidura in the collection, from the three localities above mentioned.
The irides are marked " dark brown," and the legs and feet " black."

The bill is broad and rolmst, and the rectrices but slightly graduated,
the external being only about UJ: inch shorter than the middle pair; so
that the species would ajjpear to come in the same division as Nos. 12
and 13 of Count Salvadori's list.

23. Rhii'idura opistherytora, Sclater.

Supra cinerascco-fusca, dorso postico castaneo-ruf a ; loris cdbidis ; alarum
nigricantium marginibus exttrnis ru/escentibus ; subtus pallide fulva,
gutture albo, crisso castaneo, hypnrhondriis rufescenti lavatis ; caudce
elongatce et valde graluatx rectricibus ru/escentibus, supra castaneo extus
marginatis ; rostro superiore nigro, inferiore ad basin et pedibus pallidis :
long, tota G7, ala: 3"4:, caudce rectr. med. 3"8, cxt. 2o, tarsi 0'9.

360 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Hah. Insulas Tenixnberenses Larat et Maru.

Ohs. Sp. gutture albo et dorso postico et crisso castaneis, sicut videtur,
facile dignoscendo.

The two si^ecimeiis of this species in the collc3tion arc both marked as
$ ; but the male would probably not differ in coloration. " Irides dark
brown; upper mandible sooty brown, lower mandible same at toj:), but
pale flesh colour at base; feet lavender pink."

This species belongs to the section with small bill, and the tail-
feathers much graduated, the outer pair being 1-3 in. shorter than the
middle pair. Below, the tail is pale, rufoiis, the inner webs of the
rectrices passing into blackish. Above, the outer tail-feathers are
margined externally at their bases with the chestnut-red of the rump.

24. Myiagra fulviventkis, Sclatcr.

Supra plumbea, capite ct dorso nitore cccruleo tinctis ; alis et caitda fusco-
niijricantihus ; suhtus saturate castaneo-nifa, ahdomine et suhaJaribus
fidvis ; remigum marc/inibiis interioribiis aJhicuntihus ; rostra et pedibus
vitjris : Jong, iota 5"8, aloi 2'7, caudcv 2'7.
Ilab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Obs. Proxima il/. riifiyidx ex Timor, sed ventre et subalaribus fulvis
distinguenda.

" Irides dark brown, bill lavender-blue, legs and feet black : " The
type was obtained in Larat on August 2nd, 1882 ; and others later.

25. MiCRCECA HEMIXANTHA, Sclatcr.

Supra flavicanti-olivacea ; alls caudaque fuscis dorsi colore marginatis,

lor is et linea superciliari obsoleta flavidis; macula auriculari fusca ;

subtus flava, remigum inarglnibus intemis albldis ; subalaribus flavis ;

rostrifusci mandibida infer lore pallida ; pedibus nigris: long, tola 4 '8

(the 2 ■ 9, Cauda; 2 ' 1.
flab. Larat et Luti^r.

Obs. Species Pa'cilodryadi x'^inmnx, quoad colores, fere similis, sed, ut
videtur, generi Microecx apponenda.

26. Art AMIDES tjnimodus, Sclatcr.
Graucalus unimodus, P. Z. S. 1883, p. 55.

The collection contained two ma'es and three females of this species.
The sexes are not quite similar, as avxU be seen from the subjoined
diagnoses.

$ Cinereus ; fronte, loris et capitis lateribus cum gutture toto ad medium
pectus ceneo-nigris ; alis et cauda nigris illis cinereo extus marginatis ;
subalaribus pallide isabellinis ; remigum pagina inferiore alhicanti-
cinerea ; rostro et pedibus nigris : long, tola 13 '5, alx,7'3, cdudce 6 '5,
tarsi 1 ■ 3.
^ Mari similis, sed paulum obscurior et colore nigra nisi in loris carens ;

crassitie paido minore.
Bab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Obs. Species (Uraucalo cxruleo-griseo aflfinis, sed colore corporis cineras-
centiore et remigibus intus non albis distinguenda.

27. A. TiMORLAOENSis, Meyer, in ' Zeit. f die Ges. Ornitb.' 1884, p. 10.

28. Graucalus melanops, V. & H.

29. Lalage m(esta, Sclater.

Supra sericco-nigra ; superciliis hrevibus et uropygio albis ; alis nigris,
tectricihus minor ibus et majoribus et secundariis albo late terminatis;
corpore subtus, subalaribus et remigum pogoniis intemis ad basin omninu

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 361

alhis ; Cauda nigra, rectrtcibus diMihus externu alho terminatis ; rostro ef
pedihus mcjris : long, tota G"2, alee '6'7, caudce 3 "3.
Bab. Inss. Tenimberenses.

Obs. Affinis L. atro-virenti et L. tricolor i, set! supercilii^ curtis albis
dividenda.

30. Artamus leucogaster, Val.

^4. musschenbrvehi, Meyer, loc. sup. c.'t.
Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Artamus mttsschenhroeJci, is the name proposed by Dr. Meyer for the
Timor-laut Wood-Swallow, which has been determined by Dr. Sclater as
A. hucoi/aster, Val. (P. Z. S. 1883, pp. 51 and 200). Of the Arfamns from
Dr. Meyer's identical locality I have in my own collection three specimens.
I have examined carefully seventeen others from different localities, in the
very long series in the British Museum derived from ('eh-bcs, the Fhihp-
pines, ,'iumatra, JtiYa,'Lon\hock,FloYes, Timor, Batjian, Burn, Hahnuheira,
Goram, Aru, Batanta, and from N. Australia. The species in the Dresden
Museum from the underlined localities are admitted by Dr. IMeyer to
belong to A. leucogaster. It is impossible to .'separate my Timor-laut
skins from specimens collected in Zebu by the ChalleiK/er Expedition,
and determined by Lord Tweeddale (P. Z S., 1877, pjx 541-515). The
colour in both is absolutely the same. Lord Tweeddale, however, remarks
on the difference of dress — "one in which the upper plumage is of a
light bluish and cinereous colour, the other where it is of a more smoky
brown and bluish ash. This does not seem to depend on sex ; for one of
these exam])les (Zebu 3G2) is mar'.ced $ , while 1 possess a Luzon example
exactly similar, which Dr. Meyer determined to be a $ . The other Zebu
example (No. 370) is marked ? , and is in the paler l)luish-grey attire."
I feel satisfied, after cxaiuinirg the .specimens in tlu; British Museum and
in my own collection, that the difference in coloration is one due to age,
for in young l)iids, the plumage is lighter tlian in the adult state. Dr.
Meyer's observation tliat the dark inantle reaches, in Timor-laut S'kins
only, just to the root of the tail, while in A. leucogaster it overlaps by
about a centimetre, is, in as far as the series referred to enables an opinion
to be formed, one not sufficiently constant to support specific separation.
In several Timor-laut s]iecimens examined, the dark plumage overlaps the
tail more than 1 centimetre, and even more than in others from difterent
parts of the Archipelago which have been hitherto recognised as A.
leucogaster. In skins of A. leucogaster from Mysol and Macassar, the
mantle is just conterminous with the root of the tail. Really, however,
the absolute constancy of these measurements can be determined only with
accuracy in the flesh, for the way in whicli the skin is maniimlated will
increase or diminish them by several centimetres. The same holds with
regard to another cliaracter given as differential — the greater amount, in
Timor-laut siK'cimens, of white on the rum]i and upper fail-coverts. In
my own specimens the white on the rump varies from 22-31 niillim.
in loiigtli, while in eight other skins from different regions of the
Archipelago the range is from 26-32 millini., giving in the latter indeed
a wider zone than in those from Timor-hint. In the long series of
Briti.sh Museum skins, the v],lte tips of alt bat tlic tiro middte tail-feathers,
another of Dr. Meyer's differential characters, is quite inconstant. In
several Timor-laut skins not only these two tail feathers, but several
others of the remigcs, are without a white band, while in some exaui))les
it is even less than in undisputed A. leucogaster. In younghirdu the white
tips are very ])ronounced, not on the reniiges only, but on the primaries
and secondaries of the wing also. Tlic I'liilippine (Zebu) birds, already

362 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINQS

referred to, have the tips of the remiges quite as broad as in those from
Timor-Iaut, In a Loiubock specimen (" ex Stevens ") the tips of all the
feathers are white ; a Batanta and a New-Holland specimen have no white
tips at all ; one from, Halmaheira and one from Burn (both from Mr.
Wallace's collection) except in one feather, have no white on the remiges;
yet all of them have been determined to be, and are undoubtedly A.
leucoyaster (Yal.) [H. 0. F.]

31. DlCRUROPSIS BRACTEATUS, Gould.

32. Pachycefhala arctitokqcis, Sclater, loc. cit, PI. XIII.

P. kehirensis, Meyer, op. sup. cit.
P. riedelii, Meyer, op. su}!. cit.
Supra cinerea, alls caudaque nigris cinereo limhatis, pileo nucha et capitis
later ibus nigris; subtus alba, torque jugular i angusto nigro ; subaluribus
et remigum marginibus inter ioribus albis ; rostra et p)edibus nigris : long,
tota 5 '5, alx, 3*0, catidse 2 '2. Fem. Supra fusca, in pileo rufescens ;
alls nigris extus rufo Umbatis ; subtus alba, obsolete nigro striata.
Hub. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem.

Dr. Meyer, in the paper referred to, has described two new species of
Pachycephala, whose names are given above as synonyms. If he is correct
in his determinations we have the cvirious fact that, notwithstanding my
more thorough examination of a wider field, which included the region
whence he obtained his birds, the w'hole series obtained by me contained
no females of P. arctitorquis and no males of P. riedelii (were Dr. Meyer's
Rpecimens sexed?); while those who made the collection examined by
Dr. IMeyer, obtained in Babbar (an island at no great distance to the
W. of Yamdena) females of P. arctitorquis, and evidently no males (so
recognised by Dr. Meyer), and females of P. Jicbirerisis (Meyer), with-
out one of its males. I dai'y saw the collections made in Timor-laut by
the Amboinese hunters making this collection, and I feel coniident that
no species of Faclu/cephala — one of the groups I am particularly in-
terested in — was obtained by them which was not also in my collection.
After comparing^ Dr. Mej'er's descriptions with the long series I have
of this bird, nearly all of which Dr. Sclater had before him when writing
his original description, and which contains birds in almost every stage
of plumage, from the young bird to the fully adult, I have little hesita-
tion in affirming that P. arctitorquis, ( $ Meyer), from Timor-laut and
Babbar, is but the immature male, and P. kebirensis (Meyer) the nearly
fully adiiit female of P. arctitorquis, in which the colour of the bird when
fully adult is black; while P. riedelii is a still younger /ema/e of the
same species. From this it woiild seem clear to me that P. arctitorquis,
Scl., occurs in Babbar also, for the examples before Dr. Meyer from that
island were young males and immature females, while from Timor-laut
he had adult males, immature males ( $ , Meyer), and still younger
females (riedelii, Meyer). [H. O. F.]

33. P. fusco-flava, Sclater, loc. cit., PI. XXVII. ; Forbes, P. Z. S., 1883,
pi. 588, PI. LIII.

Obs. Similis P. leucogastro, sed torque angusto distinguenda.

The pair of these species were obtained in Larat, in the first week of
August 1882. The iris is marked "reddish brown "in the male, and
"dark brown" in the female; the feet "blue-black" in the male, and
" lavender-pink " in the female.

3i. DiciEUM FULGiDUM, Sclater.

(Figured in Gould's ' Birds of New Guinea,' part 16.)

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 363

Supra nitide purpurascenti-nigrum ; subtus album coccineo per/usum ;
hypochondriis oUvaceo mixtis ; subalaribus et remiffum pogoniis internis
a/bis ; rostro et j)edibus nigris: long, tota 3 '6, aUe 2'0, caudce 1"1.
ffab. Larat et Lutur.

Obs. Similis J), keiensi et D. ignicolU, sed ventre toto coccineo perfuse
distinctum.

'J here are two " male " exami^lcs of this Dicreum in the present collection
—one from Larat (1.8.82) and one from Lutur (19.9.82). Both are
labelled, " Irides dark brown ; legs and feet black."

35. Mtzomela ANNABELL.J;, Sclatcr ; fiig. in Gould, ' B. N. Guin.,' Pt. 16.

Sigra ; capite cum gutture toto tindiqne et dorso postico coccineis ; ventre
medio et remigum marginibus externis stridissimis olivaceis ; subalaribus
et remigum imgoniis internis albis ; rostro et pedibus nigris : long, tota
8'5, aim 2"0, Cauda; 1"3.
Hab. Lutur, Timor-laut.

Obs. Sp. ad M. erythrocephalam et species huic affincs adjungenda,
corpore coloris nigro et crassitie minore insignis.

The single specimen was obtained September 22nd at Lutu. It is
marked "Male: irides dark brown : bill black; legs and feet dirty green."
I have named it by, request of the discoverer, after his wife, who
accompanied him in his perilous travels.

86. Stigmatops salvadorii, Meyer, op. cit.

Stigmatops squamata, Salvad. Sclater, P. Z. S., 1883, p. 198,
Sectarinia sp. ice. Sclater, P. Z. S., 1883, p. 51.

One of the most frequently met with birds. Feeds at the cocoanut flowers.
The [first instalment of the] collection contained two skins in bad condition
(marked " ? ") which I thought might probably be referable to a female of
.some species of Nectar inia. The [second instalment] comprehends nine
specimens of the same bird of both sexes. It is evidently a Melipliagine
bird of the genus Stigmatojis, and, so far as I* can tell, without actual
comparison with the types, inseparable from S. squamata of Salvadori.
This species was discovered by Rosenberg on Khor Island between the
Ke group and Ceram-laut, and may therefore probably also occur in the
Tenimber group from which Khor lies not very far north.

37. Philemon timoblaoensis, Meyer.

P. plumigenis, Sclater, P. Z. S., 1883, p. 199.

Philemon timorlaoensis is the name proposed by Dr. Meyer for the
ppecies designated P. plumigenis by Sclater (P. Z. S., 1883, pp. 51 ik, 195).
The Timor-laut bird certainly differs from that from Ke, but the
differences are scarcely to be formulated in words. The Tenimber bird
seems intermediate between the Buru and K6 birds. Dr. Gadow, in the
9th vol. of the Cat. of Birds, has not separated the species, nor has Mr.
Sliarpe, in the IGth part of Gould's " Birds of New Guinea," though he
has expressed doubts as to their identity. [H. 0. F.]

38. ZosTERors guiseiventris, Sclater.

Supra kete viridis, atntulo periuphtltalmico distincto albo ; alis caudaque
nigricantibus viridi limhitis ; subtus pallide grisea, in ventre medio
albicantior, gula et crisso flavis ; suhilaribus et remigum marginibus
internis albis, rampiterio flavido ; rostro p)aJlide corneo, pedibus pallide
fuscis ; long, tota 4'7, <d(r. 2'i), caudie \1.

Hah. Larat, Lutur, et Molu insulas Tcnimberenses.

There are sixteen six-cimens of this apparently wcm Zosterops in the

364 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

present collection, obtained at various dates in the localities above
mentioned. The irides are noted as " reddish brown."

The species belongs to the group of Z. aJhiventris ; but appears to be
distinguishable by its greyish abdomen, which is only Avhiter in tlie
middle line.

. 30. Gerygone dorsalis, Sclatcr.
Supra irunnesceuti-castanea, alts caudaque nigris dorsi colore Umhatis,
pileo et nucha inurino-hrunneis ; subtus alba, hypochondriis rufescenti
lavatis ; subalaribus albis ; caitdce rectricibus subtus in pogoniis
interioribus nigricantlhus macula versus apicem alba prccditis ; rostro et
pedibus nigris : long, tota 4'0, alcB 2'1, caudce I'G, tarsi 0"8,
$ . 3fari similis.

llab. Larat, Lut^^r et Molu, insulas Tenimberenses.
I was rather uncertain as to the correct position of this little bird,
which is quite distinct from anything that I- am acquainted with ; but
Count Salvadori, to whom I have sent a skin for examination, kindly tells
me it is a Gerygone. Tlio bill is rather compressed, and the tarsi are long
and slender. The third, fourth, fifth, and sixth primaries arc nearly
equal and longest. The irides are noted as black.

40. ' Okiolus decipiens, Sclater.

Memcta decipiens, Scl. P. Z. S., 1883.
Fuscus fere, unicolor, superciliis albidis, pileo nigricanti striolato ; subtus
paido dilutior, gutture et cervice antica albis, prcecipue ad latera nigro
guttulatis ; pectoris summi plumis quibusdam nigricanti striolatis ;
regione auricular i nigricante ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long, tota 11"8,
alee 0'5, caudce 5'0.
Hab. Larat, insulam Tenimberensem.

Obs. Similis 31. bouroensi, sed gula albida nigro transversim guttulata
et pectoris summi plumis nigricanti striolatis distinguendus.

Two specimens of this Mimeta, marked " irides dark brown," are in the
collection. They so closely resemble Philemon pihimigenis in general
appearancp, that I had at first marked them as of that species. Cf.
Wallace, P. Z. S., 1863, p. 2G, on a similar case of mimicry in another
species of this genus.

41. Geocichla machiki, H. 0. Forbes.

Geocichla sp. inc., Sclater, P. Z. S., 1883, lo3. sup. cit.

The sjoecies of Geocichla is an adult male, intermediate between Geocichla
rubiginosa from Timor and G. erythronota from Celebes. The general
colour of the upper parts is olive-brown, shading into slaty brown on the
head and into chestnut on the rump and upjicr tail-coverts ; lores white,
car-coverts mottled wliite and slaty-brown ; wings brown ; lesser wing-
coverts olive-brown,- broadly tipjied with white ; innermost secondaries
russet-brown, obscurely tipped with white ; tail-feathers russet-brown,
the outer feathers on each side broadly tipped Avith dull white ; chin,
throat, and breast buffish white, the rest of the under jiarts white, the
feathers on the flanks broadly tipped with crescentic spots of black;
axillaries — basal half white, terminal half black ; under wing-coverts —
basal half brown, terminal half white ; basal half of inner web of
secondaries and basal portion of many of the primaries white ; upper
mandible sooty grey, lower yellow; irides ash-brown; legs, feet, and claws
i:)ale flesh-colour. Wing, 4j inches, tail 3'2, culmen l"0o, tarsus 1-4. (No.
in collection 583 g.)

I propose that this new species shoiald bear the name G. machiki, as a
small mark of remembrance of Dr. Julius Macliik, of Buda Pesth, Surgeon-

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 365

Captain in the Dutch Army, and of appreciation of his extreme kin.dn«ss
and hospitality, and of the greatest possible assistance rendered by him
to me in Snmatra, and more especially in Ambr)ina to my wife and myself,
both before and after our return from the Tenimber Islands. Dr. Mfichik
is well known in the Archipelago for his extensive collections of Molusca
fishes, snakes, and insects. [H. O. F.]

42. Geocichla schistacea, Meyer, op. cit.

43. Pitta vigorsii, Ged. fide Meyer.

44. Muni A Molucca, L.

45. Erythruka trichroa, Kittl.

46. Calornis gularis, G. E. Gr.

C. metaUica, Sclater, P. Z. S. loc. sup . cit.
C. circumscripta, Meyer, op. suiD. cit.

The species of CaJomis from the Tenimber Islands has been distin-
guished from C. metaUica as a new specie.*, C. circumscrijita by Dr. Meyer.
1 have a large series of skins in my collection, and that they belong to a
species distinct from C. metaUica is undoubted, and, as Dr. Meyer observes,
they can, when mixed up with any number of species of Calornis, be un-
hesitatingly jjicked out by the coloration of the throat. The throat-plumes
in G. metaUica are prominently longer and more mucronate than those in
the Timor-laut specimens. The violet of the mantle, however, contrary
to the note of Dr. Meyer, has the blue-green reflexions observable in V.
metaUica quite distinct in most of my specimens, if the eye be '' jDlaced
between the bird and the light " in position A, as described by Dr. Gadow
(P. Z. S. 1882, p. 409), that is with "the eye and the light almost in a
level witii the planes to be examined." A species of Calornis discovered
by Mr. Wallace in Mysol (of w-hich the tyjio is in the British Museum)
was named C. (jidaris by G. P. Gray ; but was considered by Count
Salvadori (the label bearing the name in his handwriting) as C. metaUica,
while it remained unique. After comparison of this skin with Timor-
laut specimens, the two arc nia/vestionahJi/ identical. C. circi(mscri2)ta
(Meyer) must, therefore, be considered henceforth a synonym of ('. gularis,
G. P. Gr., which must now be removed from being a synonym of C.
metaUica to sjjecific rank, confirming the opinion exiDressed in 1876 (' Ibis,'
p. 46) by Mr. Powdler Sharpc, who says: "I must pronounce this,
contrary to Lord Walden's opinion, a very pood species, distinguished by
its purple throat and small I ill, the cnlmcn only measuring '65 inch, as
against •85 in (\ viridescens.'' Tliis measuiemcnt is not the only one by
Avhicli the sjiecies can be distinguished, for the j'lumnge in every specimen
is so constant that the skins cannot easily be confounded with any other.
('. t/ularis is slightly less, and more brightly metallic — a more beautiful
bird, in my opinion, even than the true C. metaUica; the purple of the
tliro.it, which is more chastely and delicately feathered than in C.
metuUica, is separated from the ])urplo of the back and upper breast by a
narrow and verij hriijht green band. Ihe total length of the bird in 14
specimens ranged from 210-250 niillim. Count Salvadori (P. Z. 8., 1878,
p. 89) remarks: "Home specin:ens (of C. metaUica) have Ihe throat more
purplish than otliers, one from Mysol (C. c/ularis. Gray) cannot be
."separated from others from Halmalieira and Cape York." 1 have not seen
any Halmalieira s|)ecimens ; but the Cape-York bird undoubtedly differs
by tlie ])urpleon th(f breast, which is green in C. i/ufaris ; the green neck-
band is much broader, and the throat is more markedly green and with-
out i)urj)le. It has, I believe, been separated as C. purpurasceus, Salv.
The Admiralty-Island Calornis is somewhat similar to C. gularis, but is at
25

366 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

once distinguishable by the absence of purple on tlie back ; the head is
purple ; and it is known as C. purpureiceps. [H. O. F.]

47. Caloenis crassa, Sclater.

Obscure cineracea-viridis nitore clialyheo ; subtus, prcecipue in ventre, paulo
magis cineracea ; aliscaudaqtie ni(/ris extus dorsi colore lavat is ; remigum
marginibus inter ioribus fuliginosis; rostro et pedibus nigris ; cauda
fere oequaU aut paidum rotundata : long, tota 7'3, aJct 4'1, caudca 2'8.
Fern. Supra cineracea, striis scaparum nigris variegata ; alis caudaque
fusco nigris ; sribtus alba nigro fiammulata ; crassitie fere eadem.
Ilab. Larat, ins. Tenimbereusera.

Obs. Species cauda fere sequali, corporc crasso, rostro robusto ct colore
maris uniformi notabilis.

Both male (August 1st) and female (August 8th) arc marked "Irides
dark brown ; bill, legs, and feet black."

48. CoRVUs LATiROSTiiis, Meyer, op. sup. cit.

Corvus validigsimvs, Sclater, loc. cit.

49. EuRTSTOMis PACiFicus, Lath, fide Meyer, op. sup. cit.

50. Cai'RImulgus macrdrus. Horsf.

51. HiRUXDO javanica, Si^arrm.

Y. CoLvyiBM.

52. Ptilopus wAllacii, Or.

53. J). LETTIENSI8, Sclil. fide Mevcr.

54. P. xanthogaster, Wagl.

P. flavooirescens, Meyer, op. sup. cit.

The designation Ptilop>us favovirescens has been proposed by Dr. Meyer
for the Timor-laut Pigeon determined by Dr. Sclatei* as /'. xantliogaster
(Wagl.). The difference lies, he notes, in the " Gelbgriinlichgraue" of tbe
liead and neck. From a careful comparison of my own skins with those
in the British Mu.?eum, I feel confident that the differences observed by
Dr. Meyer will be found to be those due to age only. Very young birds
have a grey band over the forehead, and the rest of the head with the
neck and back nearly of the same shade of green ; ■with advancing age we
find every shade of green and yellowish-green to Dr. Meyer's " Gelbgriin-
lichgraue." The head of the fully adult bird is purplish- grey, each
feather having a pale yellow submarginal crescent across it.

Some of tlie skins obtained by me differ as to head and neck in no
respect from specimens brought by Mr. "Wallace from Banda ; others have
the head and neck of a grey colour tinctured with every shade through
green-Mue to yellow, differing according to the age of the birds. I cannot
detect in the specimens I have, any difference in breadth of the " Gelb der
Kehle '* as compared with Mr. "Wallace's specimens ; nor is the brmst shield
constantly of one shade in all the specimens I have examined. In the
Eanda example (of "Wallace) it is darker than any Timor-laut siiecimen
before me. In agreement with all those in the British ]\Iusenm, my
Timor laut si)ecimens have the outer margin of the primaries and
Eccondaries as in Salvadori's description, " flavo-marginatis." [H. 0. F.]

55. Carpophaga concinna, "Wall.

56. C. ROSACEA, Temm.

57. jVIyristicivora bicolor. Scop.

58. Macropygia timorlaoensis, Meyer, oj). sup. cit.

Macropygia keiensis, Salv.

Macropygia sp. inc., Sclater, P. Z. S. 1883, loc. sup. cit.

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 367

59. Spilopelia tigrina, T. fide Meyer, op. sup. cit.
()0. Geopelia maugei, Temm.

61. Chalcophaps chkysochlora, Wagl.

YI. Galling.

62. Megapodics teniMcerexsis, Sclater.

Supra hriinnescenti-oUvaceus, in cervice magis cinereus, in dorso postico
magis hrunnescens ; ^^<7et> suhcristato interscapulio concolore ; stihtus
cineraceus olivaceo tinctus ; capitis literalis et gulce pelle rubra plumis
paucis obsita ; subalaribus ventre concoloribui ; rostro Jiavo ; tarsis antice
nigris postice rubris, digitis nigris ; long, tota IX'5 alos 9"6, caiidcB 3"5,
tarsi 2-8.
Hub. Firinun et Liitur, ins. Tcnimberensem.

Obs. Species i^ediim colore ad .1/. gedvinkianum corporis jDictura magis
ad M. tumulum appropinquans.

There are two specimens of this apparently new Megaporle in the collec-
tion. One from Lutur, Timor-laut, obtained September 22nd, is marked
" Irides dark brown ; bill pale yellow; legs in front black, but front of
knees red, back of logs red; feet black." The other, from Kirimim, is
labelled " Iris brown ; bill pale j'ellow ; legs and feet red." But the
colours of these last-named jmrts, so far as can be told from the dry skins,
do not materially differ from those of the first specimen ; and the two
birds agree in plumage, except that the specimen from the islet of Kirimun
is rather more reddish on the foce.

A'll. Grallatores.

C3. Orthorhaaiphcs magnii;ostris, Geoff.

64. Oedicnemis grallarius. Lath.

65. Charadrics fui.vus, Gm.

66. iEciALiTis geoffroyi, Wagl.

67. Lobivanellus miles, Bodd.

68. TOTANUS INCANUS, Gm.

69. NUMENIUS VARIEGATUS, Scop.

70. Ardea SU.MATRAXA, Eafflcs.

71. A. NOViE-HOLI,ANDI.E, Loth.

72. IIerodias alba, L.

73. Demigretta sacra, Gm.

74. Nycticorax caledonicus, Gm.

75. PoRPHVRio melanoiterus, Temm.

YIII. Xatatoues.

76. Nettapus pulchellus, Gould.

77. Dendrocygna guttata, ]\IiilI.

78. Tadorna radjah, Garn.

79. Sterna melanauchen, T.

SO. OnYCIIOPRION ANiESTlIETUS, Scop.

Dr. Sclater concludes his paper with the following remarks, which I
rei)roduce, as the recent discoveries of ]Mr. Kiedel's collectors have not
materially modified tlie conclusions arrived at by the writer in 1884:
" I will say a few words concerning the general character of the avifauna
of the Teiiimber Islands so far as it is indicated by this collection. It
is quite evident that tlie jirevaih'ng facies of this ornis is, as might have
been expected, predominantly Papuan. Of the species included in the
above-given list, 81 are mentioned in Salvadori's work. Of the 24 new

368

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

species discovered by Mr. Forbes all are of Papuan genera, and nearly
allied to known Papuan species except the Strix, which appears to be a
diminutive form of an Australian type, and the My lag r a, v;h\c\\ is nearest
to a Timor form; the Gcocichla machiki is most nearly allied to a Timor
bird. There is also in the collection one other Timor bird, Erytlirura
tricolor, which is not found in New Guinea or the Moluccas. 1 think,
therefore, we may fairly say tliat tlie Tenimberese Avifauna is pre-
eminently Papuan, varied only by a slight element from Timor (repre-
sented by Erythrura tricolor, Myidr/rafalvivcntris, and the Geocichia), and
by an Australian tinge shown by the Strix, and perhaps by Monarcha
nitidus being present (as in the Aru Islands) instead of M. cJailybeo-
cephalus.

EKLTCU-MAP OF THE REGION, SHOWING THE GEOGRAPHICAL KELATIOXS OF TEE

TENIMBER GROL'P.
(with the kind PEUMISSION* OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHR0P0L03ICAL

INSTITUTE.)

That tlie Tenimber group would possess a certain number of peculiar
endemic forms was also to be expected, from their isolated situation, and
the deep channel around them. Altogether these are 29 [now 30] in
number, namely the 27 [23] species above described as nevv^, and two
Parrots (^Eos reticulata and Lclectas riedeli) previously known." [H. 0. F.]

IV. — On the Collection o/Keptiles and BATRACHIANS/)'o?n the Timor-laut
Islands, formed hy Mr. H. O. Forbes. By G. A. Boulenger, F.Z.S.

(From Proc. Zool. Soc. London, June 5, 1883. PI. XLI., XLII.)

The Reptiles and Batrachians collected by Mr. Forbes in the Timor-
laut Islands, and presented to the British Museum by the Britisli As-
sociation, belong to seventeen species, which, with the exception of two
new to science, were already wtll known from diifercnt parts of the
Austro-Malayan sub-region. The two new" species are a Lizard of the
Australian genus Lojjhugnathns, Gray, and a Snake of the Indian genus

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 369

Simofes, D. & E. The latter is the most remarkable discovery, as no
species of this genus was known to occur eastwards of Java.
The following is a list of the species collected : —

KEPTILIA.
Lacertilia.

1. Gecko verticillatus, Laur.

2. Peripia mctilata (Wiegm.).

3. Yaranus indicus (Daud.).

4. Ablepharus boutonii (Desj.) {A. pcedlophurus, Wiegm.].

5. Euprepes rffescens (Shaw).
G. Euprepes ctanurus (Less.).

7. LyGOSOMA SilARAGDINUJI (Less ).

8. Bronchocela moluccana (Less.).

9. Lophogxathus maculilabris, BouI., sp. n. ; P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit.,
P). XLI.

Snout obtuse, as long as the distance between the orbit and the pos-
terior border of the ear. Nostril equally distant from the orbit and the
tip of the snout. Upper surface of head covered with very strongly
keeled scales. Dorsal scales small, the upper largest, strongly keeled,
all obliquely directed upwards. Gular and ventral scales strongly keeled,
the latter larger than the largest dorsal scales. No femoral or prseanal
]iores. Upper surfaces olive, with blackish transverse markings across
the back, tail, and limbs; ujiper si;rfiice of head with three obsolete
T)lackish transverse bands, separated by light lines; a broad blackish
band from orbit to tympanum, bordered inferiorly by a light band ex-
tending to above the fore limb ; lips light-coloured, variegated with
blackish; lower surfaces whitish, dotted all over with blackish.

Two sijecimens; the largest measures:—

rail'.im.

Total length 388

From tip of snout to vent ....... 98

„ „ fore limb ...... 43

Length of head (to occiput) ...... 22

Widtli of bead 17

Fore limb ......... 46

Hind limb 91

Tail ... 290

Ophidia.

10. Pythox reticulatus (Schn.).

11. LlASIS AMKTHYSTIXUS (Schu.).

12. Enygrus carinatcs (Schn.).

13. SiMOTES FORBESi, Boulcng, u. sp. ; p. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. PI. XLII.
Length of snout measuring twice the diameter of the ejc. Nasal

'divided; loreal slightly higher than broad; one prjB- and two post-
* oculars ; temporals 1 + 2 ; seven ui^per labials, the third and fourth
entering the orbit ; four inferior labials in contact with anterior chin-
f-hields ; latter, hinder part tliree-tifths the length of anterior pair. The
portion of the rostral seen from above is as long as the suture between
the internasals and the prefrontals; latter considerably higher than
intcrnasals. Frontal longer than its distance from the tip of the snout,
as long us parietals. Scales in 17 rows. Ventrals sliglitly keeled on the
sides, 155 or 1G5; anal entire; subcaudals 45. Upper surfaces greyish

370 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

brown, the borders of the scales darker; head with the ordinary sym-
metrical dark markings; the inner border of the seventh lonRitudinal
series of scales, counted on each side from the gastrosteges, darker, thus
forming two fine vertebral lines separated from each other by three rows
of scales; belly yellowish, each ventral shield with a brown spot near
the lateral edge, these spots more or less confluent into a dark streak,
separated from the dorsal brown colour by a pure yellowish streak of
equal width ; in one of the two specimens the ventrals become gradually
entirely brown towards the posterior part of the body, except the lateral
outer streak, which remains pure yellowish. Head and body 30i centim. ;
tail 58 millim.

14. Dendrophis ruNCTULATUS (Gray).

15. Chrysopelea rhodopleueon (Eeinw.).

ATRACHIA.

IG. Rana PAPUA, Less.

V. — On the CoLEOPTERors Insrcts collected hj Mr. H. 0. Forbes in the
Timor-limt Islands. By Chas. 0. AYaterhouse, F.Z.S.

(From Proc. Zool. Soc. London, April 1884, p. 213, PI. XVI.

The number of species of Coleoptera collected by Mr. Forbes in the
Timor-laut Islands is twenty-nine. Of these the following deserve
special notice on account of their geographical distribution : —

1st. Biaphoetes rugosus, a new genus and species of Staphylinidse, which
Mr. David Sharpe informs me he possesses from Java.

2nd. Cyphogastra arif/ulicoUis (from Larat), a sj^ecies of Buprestida), only
previously known from Banda.

3rd. Cyphofjastra sp>lendens (from Maru), a new species closely allied to
the preceding.

4th. Archetypus rugosus, a new species. This genus of Longicorns, of
which there was only one species previously known, occurs in Waigiou,
Dorey, and Aru.

5th. Felargoderus rufjosus. Another new Lougicorn closely allied to P.
arouensis.

6th. Kemophas forbesii. A third new Longicorn nearly allied to N. grayi
from Amboina.

Carabid^.

Catascopus amcenus, Chaud.

Two specimens which may perhaps be merely varieties of this species.
They are, however, darker in colour than any in the British-Museum
collection, being of an obscure olive-asneous, shading into dark purple at
the sides of the elytra.

Hah. Maru.

Staphyltnid^.

DiAPHCETEs, Waterbouse.

General characters of Stap)hylinus,h\\\. with tlie smaller than is usual in
that genus. Labial palpi robust, with three visible joints; the first and
second short, the apical one very large and cup-shaped. The maxillie

IN TIMOR-LAUT. 371

are very broad, tbe inner lobe a little longer than broad and densely
covered witli hair; the outer lobe produced a little beyond the inner one,
the apex with dense matted hair, with four or five stiff bristles on the
outer side. Basal joint of the maxillary palpi short ; the second and third
stout, about twice as long as broad, narrowed at t'\e base: the ajDical
joint narrower than the preceding, acuminate at the apex. Tbe labrum
about twice as long as broad, membranous, the middle of the front
margin very deeply incised, fringed with stiff liair, and with some long
stiff' bristles arising from behind the margin. The anterior angles of the
thorax are very much directed downwards and are rather obtuse, and arc
not visible when view'ing the insect from above, in which position the
thorax has a nearly circular outline. The under rcfiexed shining margins
parallel as far as the front angles. Intermediate coxa3 slightly separated.
Tarsi rather slender.

DiAPHCETES nuGOSUs, Waterliouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. PL XVI.
Fig. 1.

Nearly black: sparingly clothed with pubescence, whach is chiefly
brown, but on the shoulders of the elyti'a, the basal segment of the
abdomen, and the margin of the penultimate segment, and on the tibife is
golden. Head, thorax, and elytra densely and very strongly punctured,
the punctures on the disk of the thorax having a tenciency to run
together longitudinally. The punctuation of the abdomen is much less
strong and less close. Head a little broader than long, about two thirds
the width of the thorax ; the cheek behind each eye is much less than the
length of the eye, the ]DOsterior angle rounded. Thorax rounded at the
sides and behind; in the middle of the base there is a short smooth spot.
Elytra as long as the thorax, but distinctly broader, with an indication
of a sutural stria. Legs pubescent, the middle tibiae beset Avith small
blackish spines ou the outer side. Length G lines.

Ilah. Larat.

P.\SSALID.E.

Leptaulax timoriensis, Perch.

The specimens in the British ]\Iuseum Collection are from India,
Philippine Is., Java, Amboina, Celebes, &c.
llah. Larat.

DvNASTIDiE.

OiiYCTES itHiNocEROs, Linn.

Found in all the neighbouring islands.

llab. Maru.

HoKoxoTus DEiLOPHUs, Sharp.

This species was described from the Philippine Islands. The speci-
mens found by ilr. Forbes are small males, but do not differ materially
from the Philippine examples.

Hub. Maru and Larat.

BUPRESTID-E.

Cyphogastra ANGiTLicoLLis, Dejr.

This species was descrihed from lianda. Tlio specimen before me from
I^arat agrees well with examples fiom Panda, but the copper colour on
the suture of the elytia does not extend quite to the scutellum.

Cyphogastra splendens, Watcrhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup cit. PI. XVI.
Fig. 2.

V^ery close to C. untjuUcolUs, and of the fame form, but with a different

372 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

distribution of colour. The thorax is briglit coppery, with more or less
{Tolden green on the disk. The elytra have the dorsal region very dark
steel-blue (appearing almost black); this blue colour making an elongate
triangular imtch (common to botli elytra), broadest at the base, and
narrowing posteriorly terminates at about one-third from the apex; next
there is on each elytron a broad oblique coppery red stripe (margined on
its inner side by golden green), commencing on the shoulder, extending
to near the apex (where it touches the suture), but then turned suddenly
to t.'ie lateral margin of the elytron ; the side of the elytron (from below
the shoulder to where it meets the turn of the coppery stripe) is dark
blue : the extreme apex is blue black. Length 17j lines.
Hub. Maru.

ELATERIDa;.

Adelocera cincta, Candoze.

The specimen before me agrees well with the description given (C. R.
Soc. Ent. Belg. 1878, p. lii) of tjis species from Sumatra. The allied
species has a wide ran_e.

Ilab. Maru.

BOSTRICHID^.

BosTRiciius ^QUALis, Watcrhousc. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. PI. XYI.
Fig. 3.

Elongate, parallel, convex, shining; black, with the elytra and legs
obscure pitcby, antennae paler. Head densely and finely granular; the
epistomx less opaque, closely and finely puuctiired. Thorax with the
basal half parallel, very convex ; the front half obliquely narrowed
anteriorly, sloping down, with six teeth on each margin, two anterior pair
slightly porrect, the space between them emarginate. The surface pos-
teriorly is marked with moderately large, deep punctiires, which are
irregularly placed, the intervals irregularly and extremely finely and
rather sparingly punctured ; all the front part is asperate. The jiosterior
angles very slightly couically produced and diverging. Elytra of the
same width a^ the thorax, scarcely broader posteriorly, very abrujitly
deflexcd at the apex ; deeply and strongly punctured, the punctures
rather close together, placed irregularly near the suture, but having
towards the sides a tendency to form lines ; the interspaces smooth and
shining, less than the diameter of the punctures (except here and there in
the longitudinal direction, when the intervals are equal to the diameter
of the punctures) ; at rather remote intervals very minute punctures may
be seen. At the upper part of the posterior declivity, on each elytron,
are two short, scarcely noticeable cost?e; the extreme apex is slightly
refiexed, dull. The first joint of the club of the antennae is a little longer
than bro^ld, the second as long as broad, the third elongate- ovate. The
anterior angles of the metasternum, and the metasternal epipleura are
densely and very finely granular. The abdomen is closely and fine punc-
tured, and very delicately pubescent. The tar.-i arc not very long as
compared with some of the species of this genus. Length 5 lines.

Hab. Maru.

Tenebrionid^.
Opatrum, sp.

A species closely resembling the African 0 micans, Gevm., and perhaps
identical and introduced.
Hab. Maru.

IN TLMOli-LAUT. 373

Bradymerus, sp.

A species of this difficult genus, which I am unable to determine.

JIab. Maru.

ToxicuM GAZELLA, Fabr.

Tlie examples agree well with specimens of this species in the British
Sluseum from Malacca.

Bab. Maru.

Toxic UM quadricorne, Fabr.

The specimens in the British Mus3um are from Penang, Java.
Philippine Is., and Borneo.

J/ab. Maru.

Amaryc.mus, sp.

A single species of this very difficult genus, which I cannot determine.

Nab. Maru.

Pediris subopacus, Waterhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit.

Closely allied to P. (Nydobates) salciger, Boisd., but less shining
Entirely black ; the head much more closely and rather more strongly
))imctured than in P. s^nlri<jer, especially on the vertex. Thorax slightly
shming only in the middle : the impression on each side of the middle
much less marked than in P. sulclger, the punctuation more distinct.
Elytra somewhat dull ; the strife nearest to the suture very lightly im-
pressed (except at the extreme apex) ; the lateral ones deeper, but much
less so than in P. siikiger ; the fir.st three interstices flat, the lateral ones
A'eiy slightly arched, much less than in P. sidciger.

Length 10 lines.

JIab. Maru.

CURCULIOXID^.

Orthorrhinus l^tus, Saund. & Jekel.

The type of this species is from Kew Hebrides.

Jlah. Maru.

Sphenoihorus obscurus, Boisd. ,

A wirk'ly distributed species.

II(tb. Larat.

PRioNiD.a;.

Archltypus castaneus, "Waterhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. Pi. XVI.
Fig. 4.

Dark chestnut-brown, the head and mandibles inclined to black ; the
legs and abdomen pitchy yellow. Mandibles nearly as long as the head,
very robust, convex, strongly punctured; on the inner side, and the
cpistoma clothed with fulvous hair. Head shining above, dull at the
sides, with a longitudinal impressed line in the middle ; Avith some
strong punctures above, rugose at the sides. Thorax wider than the
head; as its broadest part (just before the anterior angles) a little more
than twice as broad as long, narrowed posteriorly, shining; the disk flat,
moderately strongly but not closely punctured, with a smooth spot in the
middle; the sides sloping down; tht; shining surface of the disk
continued down the fide in a triangular shape to near the margin ; the
rest of the side impressed, dull and densely punctured. Scutelluin
smooth. Elytra at the base a little broader than tlie base of the thorax,
gradually widened posteriorly for two-thirds tiieir length, and then again
narrowed, the ajiex broad and obtusely rounded ; shining, strongly and
moderately clo.'^ely punctured, except near the scutellum, where the
punctuation is very delicate. Each elytron has a tine, slightly oblique
raised line about tno middle, commencing within the shoulder and not

374 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINQS

cxfending to the npex. Submtntum very closely and very coarsely
rugose.

Length IGi lines.

Hah. Maru.

Cerambycid-e.

Pachydissus noLOSERicEus, Fabr.

Occurs in many of the neighbouring islands.

Hah. Maru.

DiatojIOCEphala bachymerum, Pascoe.

The specimens of this species in the British Museum are from Celebes
and Waigiou.
Ilah. Larat.

Lamiid^.

Tmesisternus glaucus, Pascoe ?

I am not surs of the identity of Mr. Forbes's specimen with the species
described by Mr. Pascoe. It has more yellow colour on the abdomen.
Hah. ]\raru.

Pelaegoderus RUGOsrs, Waterbousc. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit.

Nearly black; head coarsely rugose, with sandy yellow pubescence
lound and beneath the eyes. Basal joint of the antennae very rugose,
not much narrowed at its base. Thorax rugose, rather dull, with
scarcely any trace of lateral spine, sparingly puliescent : the pubescence
forming a narrow sandy line on each side of the middle. Elytra with
the basal half rather strongly punctured, those at the base generally
marked by a shining graTiixle ; the posterior half is more closely and
more rugosely punctured, 'the basal half and the sides are rather
closely marked with irregular small spots of sandy pubescence, but at
about one quarter from the base there is near the suture an oblique bare
patch. A little behind the middle there is a lather ]arf>e oblique bare
patch, which extends from the side to the suture ; and behind this there
is a patch of pale sandy pubescence, not quite touching the side, but
reaching the suture and the apex. The apex of each elytron is obliquely
truncate, the outer angle obtuse.

Length 18 lines.

Hah. Larat.

This species is very close to P. arouensis, Th., but is more robust, much
more rugosely sculptured on the head and thorax ; and the basal joint of
the antenna; is Itss narrowed at the base and more rugose.

Nemophas forbesi, Watcrhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. PI. XVI.
Fig. 5.

Black, with the elytra bright steel-blue; the thorax entirely clothed
with sandy yellow pile ; the eljtra with numerous more or less inter-
rupted bands of reddish ochreous pubescence.

Length 17-20 lines.

This species is close to N. grayil, Pascoe, but has no trace of blue
colour in the head and antennae. The thorax is entirely covered with the
yellow pile, with no black at the base. The bands of the elytra are
more numerous, generally about seven, and these are more irregular.
And lastly, the sterna, epimera, and the basal segments of the abdomeu
are more or less clothed with reddish pubescence.

Huh. Maru and Larat.

Batoceea rubus, Fabr., var. ?

The si:>ecimen from Larat is a little larger than B. rubies usually is,
and has the scntcllum clothed with fulvous instead of white pubescence.

IN TIMOR- LAUT.

375

COPTOPS FUSCA, Oliv. ?

A single specimen from Maru which I cannot separate from the
African C. fusca and which is therefore doubtless introduced.

Symphyletes pedicornis, Fabr.
An Australian species introduced.
Bab. Maru.

Praoketha pleuricacsta, Piiscoe.

I can see no difference between the specimen brought by Mr. Forbes
and that described by Mr. Pasco2 from Port Albany, N. Australia.
Hah. Maru.

Chrysomelid^.
Phyllocharis cyanipes, Fabr.

This species occurs in Australia, New Guinea, Buru, &c.
Hah. JIaru.

V. — On the Lepidoptera collected hy Mr. H. 0. FoRBES in the Llands of
Timor-laid. By Arthur G. Butler F.L.S., F.Z.S., &c.

(From Proc. Zool. Soc. London, June 1883, Pl. XXKYIII.)

Twenty-three species of Lepido])tera were obtained by Mr. Forbes in his
expedition to Timor-laut ; one of these, however, is apparently a Micro-
Lei)idopteron, so much rubbed and broken as to be uurecogisable ; all
the Moths, in fact, are in very poor condition, forming a marked contrast
in this respect to the Butterflies, which are well preserved.

The following Table will give an idea of the geographical relations of
the named species in this collection : —

Species of Timor-Laut.

Nearest allied species.

Typical locality
the latter.

of

Chanapa sacenlos.

Chanapa lewinii.

North Australia.

Culliiiltpa vi.senda.

Calliplcea hyems.

Timor.

Salnturu luratensis.

Salatura arteiiice.

Java.

Hypoliiunas forbesii

Hypnlitniias polymeria.

Aru.

Precis expaiisa.

Precis tinioreusis.

Timor.

Catochrysop.s iiatalu.

Catochrysops patala.

Massuri.

Larapidfs a'lianus.

Lampides :eliaiius.

Kast India.

Delias tiinoreiisis.

Delias timorensis.

'J'imor.

Terias niaroensis.

Terias oxcavata.

Kangra.

'i'erias laratensis.

Terias 1 if nana.

Lifu.

Api)ia8 alljina.

Appias albina.

Ambuina.

Appias elciuentina. ^

Appias Clementina.

Amboiiia.

IJeleiiois coiisanguis.

Ikdenois pitys.

Timor.

Tapilio nberrans.

Papilio liris.

Timor.

Papiliu iiKipinatus.

Papilio adrastus.

Bandn, New Guinea. |

Uiluilia casiiariiiai ■?

Diludia casuarina).

Sydney.

Krclieia diibia.

Ercheia diibia.

liockhampton.

T.aj^optera lionesta.

I^af^Dptera lionesta.

East Indies.

Lyssidiu f^oldiei.

Ijvssidia goldiei.

New Guinea.

Pinacia inolylKlrenalis.

Pinacia molybdajnalis.

Batavia.

Ilymeiiia l'a.sei;ilis.

Ilymenia fascialis.

Japan.

376 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

From the obove, however, we may deduct the wide-ranging species
CcJochrysops paUda, Lami^ldes cdiunus, Lafioptera lioneda, and Hyinenia
fascialifi, which leaves us 5 Timor types, 8 Australian, 2 Aniboina, 2 New
Guinea, 1 Aru, 1 Lifu, 2 Javan, 1 Indian. The last of these, liowever, is
equally characteristic of the Malayan fauna, as al?o is that from Poly-
nesia ; these two forms, therefore, may be regarded as doubtful, which
will leave the relative projiortions of the species as follows : — Indo-
Malayan 2, Austro-Malavan 10, Australian 3. The only surprising
fact in this distribution is the preponderance of Timor over Aru or
^ew-Guinea forms, the species characteristic of that island being only
equalled by those from Aru, New-Guinea and Amboiua combined.

Ehopalocera.

NyMPHALID2E.
EUPLCEIN^.

1. Chanapa sacerdos, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. PL XXXYIII. F>g. 7.
Nearly allied to C. hwinii of Australia; the wings much blacker,

the primaries of the male velvet-black, the white spots on the primaries
decidedly larger, the sericeous brand on the male of twice the length :
secondaries with the discal series of white spots more regular, nearer
to outer margin, and not notched as in C. Uivinii ; the submarginal
spots clearer and arranged more regularly. Expanse of wings, $ 78 mm.,
? 71 mm.
Larat.

2. Callipl(EA visenda, Butler; lo:. sup. cit. PI. XXXYIII. Fig. 1.
Allied to C. hyems (arishe, Fid.) from Timor, but much darker; the

primaries are of the male velvet-black ; the white spots on the jjrimaries
larger, especially the two last in the series, the last of all being the
largest spot in the series ; submarginal dots wanting on the upper surface
of primaries, but present on the secondaries, which are not bordered
with pearl-white but with greyish brown; the discal spots forming a
sinuous white band well separaterl from the margin, somewhat as in the
preceding species; the usual whitish costa and creum-coloured sexual
patch. Expanse of wings, 6i mm.

Maru Island.

This is one of the prettiest species in the genus, and is doubtless a
copy of the preceding species.

3. Salatuea laeatensis, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. PI. XXXYIII. Fig. 5.
Allied to S. artenice, Cramer of Java ; but the subapical white fascia

decidedly broader; no central white markings on the secondaries; the
veins on the under surface of these wings less distinctly bordered with
white. Expanse of wings 70-7-1.
Larat.

NyMPHALINiE.

4. Hypolimnas foebesii, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. PI. XXXYIII. Fig. 4.

$ . Allied to //. pohjmena from Aru : velvet-black shot with purple ;
primaries with the pattern of //. vclleda $ , but darker, and with all the
vhite spots of double the size ; the secondaries differ from //. polymeria
in having a series of hastate brown dashes along the internervular folds
from just beyond the middle of the broad cream-coloured external area^

IN TIMOR-LAUT. ^11

through the centre of which a series of white spots can be dimly seen.
Expanse of wings 80 mm.

Larat.

This is one of the most beautiful species in the genus ; it bears a vague
resemblance to H. alhula of Timor, which, however, belongs to the
B. anomala group.

5. Precis expansa, Butler.

o . Allied to P. timorensis of "Wallace, from which, however, it differs
in its clearer fulvous colouring above, the blackish colouring of the external
area being confined to the apex, the paler coloration of the under surface,
its broader and less produced primaries, and the less pronounced caudal
angle to the secondaries. Wings above tawny, with black markings and
bluish-centred ocelli, as in P. erifjone of Java (Cramer, Pap. Exot. i. pi.
G2. E, F), but the white marldngs of that species replaced by a slightly
paler tint of tawny than the ground colour ; under surface as in P. en'f/one.
Expanse of wings 52-51 mm.

Earat.

AVhy the P. eriqone group has been referred to Jimonia and the
scarcely differing P. natalica to Precis it would, I think, be hard to
explain. I', antiijcne and P. natalica seem very closely allied species.

Lyc^nid^.

G. Catochrvsops pat.\la.

Li/ccena pafa/a, Kollar, Hiigel's Kaschmir, iv. 2, p. 419 (1848).
(^ . Maru Island.

l3oes not differ from Indian specimens exceiyang in the slightly v.hiter
tint of the under surface.

7. LaJIPIDES iELIANUS.

hebjjcriu celianuk, Fabricius, Ent. Syst. iii. 1, jx 280. n. 79 (1793)
Larat.

Does not dififer from Indian specimens excepting in its slightly inferior
expanse of Mings; in colouring and pattern it perfectly agrees.

PAPILIONIDffl.
PIERINJ5.

8. Delias timorensis, Boisduval ; loc. sup. cit. PI. XXXVIII. Fig. 6.

Pieris timorensis, Boisduval, Sj). Gun. Lup. i. p. 459. n. cO (183G).

Larat.

Most nearly allied to D. vishm of Moore from Java (with which species
it was associated by Wallace). It differs in its su])erior size, tho
narrower black area of the ujiper surface, the deeply sinuated inner edge
of tlie black area on the ])rimaries, the ai)ifal series of spots niucli
smaller, the fifth, as lioisduval says, " tres petite ct ponctiforme," whereas
in I), vislinu this is tlie case witii a sixth s])ot not present in J), timorensis :
primaries itulow with the basal pale area cuneifoj-ni (not angular), pure
lemon-yeilow within and ju.st below the cell, otherwise poarl-wlute ("la
base gris-l)lancliatre saupoudree de jaune pur," Boisd.): secondaries with
only the basi-abdominal third* brilliant golden yellow; suffused at

* Tho carelessness of Boisdnval's dosriiptinn at tiiis point prnh;i1)ly misled
"Wallace ; lie says : — " La nioitie' antc'riciin; d'tiii hciiu jatuic dr chnmic." On
the other hand, the yellow of D. cii<hiiu hu:i a deoidcilly dull creamy ajipear-
aiice.

378 A NATURALIST' 8 WANDERINGS

its inferior extremity with bright orange ; the inner edge of this area
straight, not angiilatcd as in 1). vish nu ; tho snbmargiiial red lunulcs
narrower, of a more carmine tint, the terminal one not expanded, further
from the outer margin, yet not touching tlic yellow area : there are in
fact, as Boisduval says, " sej)t lunules," and not six lunules and two
spots as in D. vlshnu.

9. Terias maboensis, Butler; loc. sup. cit. PI. XXXYIII. Tig. 2.

? . Nearly allied to T. excavata of Moore, from India, but of a decidedly
deeper yellow (bright sulphur) than the female of that sj^ecies : the inner
edge of the external border decidedly arched, convex, not concave, towards
the costa, the sinuation upon the median interspaces not so deep and
more oblique (as in T. sari) ; the discal markings on the under surface of
secondaries less defined and arranged in a much less irregular series.
Expanse of wings 42 mm.

Maru Island.

10. Teuias laratensis, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. PL XXXVIII. Fig. 3.

$ . Nearly allied to T. lifuana ; above most like my " Japanese
Trias," fig. 10 (Trans. Ent. Soc. 1880, ])1. vi.), but with less-pointed
primaries and narrower apical border ; it, however, belongs to the T.-
ofSLope group, the primaries below being marked with a curved series of
three subapical re 1-brown spots ; other markings much as usi;al, all well
defined ; the discal series of secondaries forming a nearly straight lino
between the first subcostal and second median branches. Exjianse of
wings 39 mm.
Larat.

11. Appias albina.

Fleris alhina, Boisduval, Sj). Gen. Lep. i. jx 480, n. G2 (1836).
$ . ilaru Island.

A small example ; tho species was originally described as from
Araboina.

12. Appias Clementina, Feld.

Pitris Clementina, Felder, Sitzungsb. Ak. "Wiss. "Wien, math.-nat. CI. xl.
p. 448 (18G0); Reise der Nov., Lep. i\ p. 162, n. 133, pi. 25. Fig. G
(1867).

$ . Maru Island.

Originally described as from Amboina.

13. Belenois consanguis, Butler, loc. sup. cit.

Nearly allied to B. jv'tijs from Timor, but a little smaller; the external
border of primaries with more oblique inner edge, much broader towards
the costa and without any trace of a subapical white spot : iwimarics
below white, suffused with sulphur-yellow at the base only; external
area black internally, but of a reddish clay-colour towards apex; its
inner edge much less irregular than in B. pitys, being sinuated only on
the lower radial and lower (or first) median interspaces : secondaries
saffron-yellow, the external border with purplish-black internal, and
reddish clay-coloured external half. Expanse of wings 48 mm.

Larat.

PAPILIONlNiE.

14. Papilio abeebans, Butler, loc. sup. cit.

Pattern and form of Papilio liris of Timor, which it greatly resembles
on the ujiper surface, but the pale area on the primaries is whiter, and

7.V TIMOR-LAUT. 379

the submarginal spots on the secondaries sandy brown, instead of dull
red ; the sides of tlie abdcimcn, front of head, anus, and lateral jiectoral
stripj are ochreons instead of deep rose-red, and the submarginal spots
on the under surface of the secondaries are ochreous buff instead of rose-
red. Expanse of wings 108 mm

$ $ . Larat.

There were several examples of this species in Mr. Forbes's collection,
clearly showing that the differences of coloration are constant.

15. Papilio inopinatus, Butler, loc. sup. cit.

Allied to F. adrastus of Felder, from Coram and N. Guinea; but the
male with a broad o1)lique subapical white belt, which does not quite
reach the outer margin and is cut by the black nervures ; the fascia on
the secondaries narrower, formed more nearly as in the Australian
P. mji'tis, with zigzag outer edge, but of more uuiform width throughout
than in that species, and of a sordid cream-colour ; a scarlet spot near
the anal angle, well separated from the central fascia. The female differs
in the whiter and oblique belt across the primaries, the inner edge of
which is not so deeply zigzag, and therefore is i ot angulattd as in the
allied species, and the outer half towards apex suffused with grey so as
greatly to reduce its Avidth ; secondaries with no trace of the central
white patch, the submarginal scarlet spot large, oblong, and notched in
front. Expanse of wings, $ 141 mm., $ 153 mm.

S var. Wings shorter ; the inner edge of the whfte band of primaries
impinged i;pon by the discoidal cell, which also encloses a spot of the
same colour as the band; the band of the secondaries bioader, cutting
across the end of the cell. Expanse of wings 132 mm.

Maru Island.

Heteroceea.
Sphingid^.

16. DlLUDIA CASUAEINiE ? Walk.

Mucrosila casuarino', ^^'alker, Lep. Het. viii. p. 210, n. 19 (185G).
I-arat. Taken in Sagueir (palm- wine) bamboos.

The specimen is so much rubbed that it is impossible to be sure that
it is the same as the Australian si)ecies.

CATEPHIIDiE.

17. Ercheia dubia, Butler.

Cutep/ua dubki, Butler, Cist. Ent. i. p. 292 (1874).
Larat.
One worn example of this Australian species was obtained.

OPHIUSIDiE.

18. LaGOPTERA H0NE6TA, Ililb.

77ii/(ts honesta, lliibner, Sanmil. cxot. Schmett. ii. \-C\}. iv., Noct. iii.
Semigeonietrro v., Meropides A. Festivse 1, figs. 1, 2 (1805).
$. Larat.

URAKIIDiE.

19. Lyssidia goldiei, Druce.

Li/ssldM (joldm, Druce, P. Z. S. 1882, p. 781.
Larat.

380 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

'Kyvjesvdm.

20. PiNACIA MOLYBDiENALIS, Hub.

Finaciu mohjhdmialis, Hubncr. Samml. cxot. Schmett., Zutr. p. 13,
11. 218, figs. 435, 436.
Larat.
Previously knowu from Java and Borneo.

AsoniDiE.

21. Hymenia fa£Cialis, Cram.

FhalcEna-PyrullsfascluUs, Cramer, Pap. Exot. iv. pi. 398. 0 (1782).
Larat.
A fragment of this wide-ranging species was obtained.

BOTIDIDiE.

22. BoTYS, sp.

. A broken example of a siDecies allied to B. gasfmJis, which it resembles
in size and coloration ; the imttern, however, agrees better with Ji.
rosinalis.

Ritabel, Larat.

The specimen is not sulBciently perfect fo name; it is chiefly interest-
ing for its roi-emblance t-) Kew-AVorld types.

The only other Lepidopterou is unrecognisable, as previously men-
tioned; the veining of the wings reminds one of some Micro-Lepi-
dopteron.

VII. — On the CoUecti(.n o/HYMENOPTEKAa^cZ DiPTERA //-oju tlie Timor-laut
Islands, formed by Mu. H. O. Forbes. By W. F. Kirby, Assistant in
the Zoological Department, British Museum.

(From the Proc. Zool. Soc. London, May, 1883, p. 343 et seqq.)

'ihe small collection before me, consisting of only five species of
Ilyraenoptera (all new) and three of Dij^tcra, was formed in two of the
fmaller islands of the Timor-laut group, viz. Larat and Maru. I will now
proceed to describe the Hymenoptera and to notice the Diptera, merely
remarking that they exhibit strong atfinities to those of the surrounding-
groups of islands, as would naturally be anticipated beforehand. Tlio
specimens are numbered; and I have noted these numbers throughout.

HYMENOPTERA ACULEATA.
Atidm.

Crocisa c^ruleifrons, Kirby., loc. cit.

Long. Corp. 5 lin.

Female. Black, face and orbits (very broadly above) blue; prothorax
with a short stripe behind on eac^h side above, and a very lai'ge spot on
the sides ; mesothorax with seven blue spots — two .<^mall ones on the front
border, adjoining those on the prothorax, a longitudinal one between,
then two slightly oval ones near the middle, and a large irregular spot
behind on each side, projecting a branch forward within the very large
black tegula; ; scuttellum black, strongly excavated in the middle :
abdomen with the first fegment blue, a narrow longitudinal line, the
greater part of the hind border, and a long transverse sjjot contiguous to

J.V TIMOR-LAUT. 381

it black, the remaining segments of the abdomen are black, with a wide
blue stripe sloping slightly upwards on each side; legs black, all. the
tibise with a wide blue stripe on the outside ; wings dark irarplish brown.
(2123. Maru.)

Allied to C. nitidula, Fabr., a species common ia Amboina, Australia,
&c., but apparently distinct.

Xylocopa forbesii, Kirby, loc. cit.

Long. Corp. 10 lin.

3TaIe. Thickly clothed above with olive-green pubescence, as in the
male of A', cest'dcins, Linn., or of A', hryorum, Fabr. ; antenna black above
and fulvous beneath, the hairs on the middle of the under surface of the
body, especially towards the tip, those on the lower part of the face, and
the very long hairs on the tarsi shading into fulvo-ferruginous : wings
brownish hyaline, with a slight violet shade, and marked on all the cells
along the hind margin with numerous black dots, as in the allied species :
proboscis black, probably reddish within and at the base when extended.
(1988, Larat.)

Female. Black, thickly clothed with black hairs, and very thickly and
finely punctured, except on the middle of the mesotliorax, which is
smooth and shining, and has a short longitudinal furrow in front; head
clothed with bright yellow pubescence, that on the face thinner and
paler ; wings with a bright green iridescence, purplish along the veins
towards the base; apical half of the antenna; pale beneath; proboscis
mostly reddish ; under surface of body thickly punctured, but with
some bare spaces along the middle line. (1958, Larat; 2019, jMaru.)

Closely allied to A', coronata. Smith, from Kaioa; but in the female of
that species (which doubtless has a male similar to that of X. forbesii) the
wings have a bright violet instead of a green iridescence.

YESPID.E.

PoLiSTES EXTiiANKUS, Kirby, loc. cit.

Long. Corp. 5 lin.

Female. Head and thorax bright chestnut, dypeus pentagonal, bright
yellow; mandibles with a yellow mark on each side: antennae dull
yellow; the scape, second joint, and upper part of the third reddish;
jjrothorax narrowly edged with yellow in front and behiiid : scutellum
with a transverse yellow line ; metathorax edged with yellow on the
sides; abdomen with the first joint yellow, witli a broad red stripe,
bordered behind with black, extending for two-thirds of its length above,
second and third .segments blackish brown, the third bordered with
yellow behind, the fourth yellow bordered with blackish brown in front
and behind, and the fifth and sixth dull reddish; wings brownish
hyaline, with reddish-brown nervurcs, yellow stigma, and brown borders.
(2023, Maru.)

Closely allied to P. stiyma, Fabr. from India, Ceram, and Celebes.

ScOLIIDiE.

DiELis LARATENSis, Kirby, loc. cit.

Long. corp. 10] lin.

Female. Black; sides of thorax and abdomen, .and legs clothed, with
black hair ; face l)lack ; clypeus very finely ])uncturcd above, and more
coarsely on its lower edge, and bordered at the sides and l)eIow with
yellow pubescence; mandibles pitchy; thorax and abdomen finely
punctured, much more densely than elsewhere on the sides of the abdo-

26

382 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

men and on the four terminal segments, both above and below : thorax
and abdomen -with strong steel-blue reflexions, especially on the basal

DiELis LABATEXSis. (With the permission of the council of the
Zoological Society.)

half of the abdomen above ; wings deep violet-brown, second recurrent
nerviu-e incomplete, diverging from the first at the base and on the left
wing ; the nervule connecting the recurrent nervures above the middle
is also obsolete. (1957, Larat.)

Much resembles the Australian Trielis antliracina, Burm., in appear-
ance.

Chrysidid^.

Chrysis melanops, Kirby, loc. sup. cit.

Long. corp. 5 lin.

Male. Bright green, with a coppery reflection on the head and thorax
(very bright coppery red wherever abraded) ; pimctures large, close
together, "but not confluent ; ocelli black, the space between and immedi-
ately around also blackish ; apex of abdomen (and summit, when viewed
sideways) with a strong blue reflection; under surface of antennae, the
greater part of the hind legs, and the tips and under surface of the
middle tibiai and middle larsi brown ; abdomen sexdentate, with equal
and rather pointed teeth of moderate size; wings brown. (2019,
Maru.)

Probably allied to C. parallela, Brulle, from Timor ; but that species
is varied with blue on the head and thorax, instead of with copper.

D I P T E R A.

The only Diptera in the collection were FIccia fnlvimUis, Wied., and
Laphria (jJuriusa, Walk., both of which are common species in the Eastern
Archipelago, and a Tahanus, possibly new, but in too bad condition to
describe.

VIIT. — List of the Crustacea colleded in the Tivior-laut Islands hy
Mr. H. 0. Forbes. Determined by E. J. Miers, F.Z.S.

Pilumnus vespeitilio, Fabr. ad. $ .
Neptiinus pelagicus, Linn.
Tlialamita creuata, Rlippell, aJ. $ .

IN TIMOR-LAUT.

Ocypoflii ceratoph til alma, Pallas, ad. $ .
Gelasmins vocaiis, Linn. ad. ^ . r

„ tetragonon, Herbst, ad.

„ annulipes, M. Edw. ad. $.

Macrophtholmiis pacificus, Dana, var.
Grapsus str'gosiis, Heibst, ad. $ .
Pachygrapsus occanicus, v;ir. quadridcntatus, Stimpson.
Cardisoma earnife'X, Herbfct. ad. $ .
Myctiris longicarpiis, Latr., ad. ^ .
Coeuobita lugosa, M. Edwards, ad. $ .
Stenopus hispidus, Olivier, ad.
I'seudosquilla ciliata, Fabr. ad.

IX. — Vocabulary of Words used in the Ke Islands and in Bitahel, Larat,
Timor-laut Islands. Compiled by the Author,

Vocabulary.

Kc Islands.

Timor-laut (Larat).

Anchor

Vatu.

Anchor, cord

Wiirat.

Anklets ..

Kiti.

Ant

Kirkim

Arm

Arumud

Vetit,wholearro,Ardad.

Arm, fore . .

..

'i'anuvur.

Armlet of shell ..

Sistoh.

Armlet of ivory . .

Lela.

Ashes

Knalun

Bad

Sisian

Sian.

Bamboo

Temar

Temar.

Banana

Miiu..

Mou.

Bat

Yabar.

Batatas (sweet potato) ..

Ena.

Bathe

Suruk

Titliiruita ; Faliru.

Beads

Marumut.

Bed

Kin

Taita.

Belly

Eboon

Evoon.

Belt, of sheath of JJorassus

Calco gnaraan.

Belt, woman's

Calco.

Beautiful 'view) .. .. ..

T.abuang

Bird

!\Ianoot

Black

Metme'tan . .

Ngtoan ; akuda.

Blood

Lara . .

Lara.

Blood- vcs.-ol

IJrat-vali.

Blue

Timtum

Nitiali.

Boat

Habo

Ea; hor.

Body

Uling

Bone

Lurin

Lorin,

Bow

Temar

Box

Sungoh

Boy

Koot-Koot . .

Kosoku.

Breast, male and female ..

Bubur: Soos '

Bubu : Sueu.

Bring

Mleba.

Butterfly

■ .

Aikuan.

Cage

Rahankau.

Calabash, for eating out of

i

I'lienga.

384

A NATURALIST'S WANDEIilNGS

Vocabulary,

Ke Islands.

Timor-laut {Larat).

Chain, girlie

worn by women , .

Eboor.

„ cf)rd part of it

Erit.

., button for fasteuing

Erit-matan.

Chalk

. • . •

Yafoor.

Child, male ;

female

Yanad

Kosoku-vata ; yanad.

Chief (of the

people)

Tamatmela.

Chin

Demid.

Chopper . .

Gnir ' '.. .'.

Clouds

IVTutan.

Coat

Ravit.

Cocoa-nut ; young (1) ; old (2) . .

Gnoor

Gnoor ; gnoor vua (1) ;

gnoor-ka (2).

Cold

Tabriniu

Ridiria.

Comb

Goal.

,, decorated ..

Goal lela.

Come

Modo

Cradle

Wel-wel

Siwela.

Dance

Tiibar; amtabar.

Dance song

Tjikelele.

Daughter ..

..

Yanad vat vat

Yana ma vata.

Dav'

Hamar

Deity

Dooad

Dooadilah.

Doll

• • ••

Taran.

Door

Fid '.'. '.'. '.'.■

Inooan.

Ear

Aroon

Arood.

Earrings (of

gold; earrings of

Lor-lora ; welwelak (of

dugong)

■ ..

..

Halcore tooth).

Earth

Elanoo.

East

. •

Timor; mololan.

Eat

Taan

Maine; Tufnan.

Eclipse

Karasok faria.

Eggs

• • ••

. .

Mata-ttloor.

Evening . .

Lerivava.

Exchange ..

. . . . '

Tetivook '..

Heloo.

Eye

Mata.

Eyebrows ..

••

Matadroon ..

Mata-toovin-

Face

Maliad

Wahad.

Far

Roro.

Father

• •• • • • •

Yamam

Yam an.

Fathom

. • . . . .

Ref ..

Erefa.

Feather . .

Manvoon

Female

Vata.

Finished . .

. • • ■ . .

Enrok

Rokiook.

Fire

Yaf

Yafo..

Fish (1), to fish (2)

lan(l)

Woowiot (1), Ian (1),

dawa woot (2).

Flesh

Hin ..

Wawoo.

Flower

• •

Ofuoon.

Fly..

Raboor

Foot

Lang.

Forget

Oobloofang ..

Kablufan.

Fowl

Manoot

Manoot.

Friend* ..

Ningyan

Kid an g.

Fruit

Booal

Give

Malabokoo-ria.

* In Yamgena (mainland) friend is
Kamtia lo.

Kes. "Friend, 1 am going,'" — " Kei

IN TIMOR-LAUT.

385

Vocabulary

Kti Islands.

Timor-laut (Lurat).

Go

Elbooa .. .. 1

Gold

Mas !

Mas.

Good

Bocik !

Lolin.

Great

Dawon.

Gum

.. ^.

Natal.

Hair

Mooroot .. .. !

Wuoot.

Half

Tera. r

Hand

Limad

Limad tanan.

Hard

Oosin

Nang.rebat.

Harpoou ..

Tear.

Head

Ood '.'. '.'. '.'.

Oolood-watool.

Hear

Mdenar

Heel

..

Eatawoo.

Hero

Odani '.'. '.'.

Haworokia.

Honey

Wenan

Horns (of house) . .

Korn.

Hot

Naneh

Nanganeh.

House

Rahan

Rahan.

How many

Hongakbo ..

Efira.

Husband ..

Brinran

Ha wan.

Indian corn

Selaroo.

Iron

Tman

Island

Nuhoo yaitt

Knee

Eadtoor

Toorad.

Knife (1) sheath (2)

Gnib

Enko, akooda.

Know dau't

Wolemgka.

Kris

Sariba.

Largo

Dawon.

Leaf

Eoan

Leg

■

Bang (man's own
leg), cam (another's)

Ead.

Lightning

Fitik.

Little

Eiiiit!! '.'. '.'.

Milne and white,
I Hemenmaran.

Loincloth ..

T. 1 J blue, Hemeu
Ro-ok-v .'

j antoan.

/ white, Hemen

(^ buru.

I'Ong

Bloot

Blawat.

Lorie

Lelooi-.

L0U83

Got .. '.'. '.'.

Male

Trana.

Man

Tomata

Toniala.

Man, young

Vcrvernn.

„ married

Ktrauii.

Manioc

Tooal.

Many

Abed"

Lehcr.

Marry

Tufan

Sofa.

Mat

D..r

M-)i,kcy

Buoo

M>nn

Ooan

Voolan.

Morning ..

Vervcrra.

Mosquito ..

Em i moos

Molher

Nen ..

Tili^

Mouth

G ueu

Soomar.

Mail

KuJcud

886

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Vocabulary.

Ke Islands.

Tinior-laut (Larut)

Nail, finger

Kukud

Navel

Fooart.

Neck

Eelad.

Needle

Boolin

Night

Dedan

No, simple negative

Waid

Walafa; wah.

No, refusnl of anything . .

Naa..

Nafena.

Noon

Lera si lola.

North

Mad mar

Mormar.

Nose

Niroon

Niroot.

Oil

Gno

Orchid

Wookoo.

Pi-

Babi

Bab.

Pillow

Loolooni.

Poison

Elaan.

Post

Fler'.'. '.". '.'.

Eain (1) ; it rains (2)

Doot(l) ..

Doot (1) ; dciit oofiri-
roo (2).

Eat

Karoo

Manhowan.

Rattan

Oo

Oo.

Eed

Voolvooli . .

Noovooli.

Eemember (1); remember well

Oofang nangkeu ..

Ninana (1) ; masilolin

(2)

(2).

Eesin

Natal.

Eeticulura (of imlm)

Nafit.

Eice

Kokat

Wan an.

Elver

Hoat

Noar.

Eoad (path)

Ood

Boot

Wailr

Sagueir (palm wine)

Tcoat

Tooak.

„ Bamboo for holding

Eavivit.

Salt

Masin

Sirak.

Sand

Gnwoor

Gnuoor.

Say ; what do yon say ? . .

Onalaka

Sea..

Laut

Meti ; tahat ; haletan.

See

Mlik

Misilik.

Sell

Oomfed

Fedi.

Send

Nigasln ngnoo.

Sew

Mhoar

Shell

Mahan.

Shell, great clam {Tridacna) . .

Mahan.

Shield

LIT '.'. '.'. '.'.

Salawakoon (long).
Gnelia (short).

Silver

Eubi

Mas ninoor.

Siri(l); basket for siii (2)

Maneran

Naan (1); loovoo

Skin

Ulid

Sky

I.anih

Sleep

Tatooi)

Tooba.

Sleeping-mat

..

Elari bangkoko.

Small

Koko.

Smoke

Yafmahnm ..

Yafuman.

Snake

Eubai

Nifa.

Son

Yana nia brana

Sour

Kahi'r '.'. '.'.

Kabi.

South

Trnnan

Trana.

Speak

Tangriiii

Tangriiii (gtitiuml).

Spear

Nangah

Boonoot.

Spoon

Ooroo.

IN TIMOB-LAUT.

387

Vocabulary. !

Ke Islands.

Timor-laut {Larat).

Star

Nar

Narra.

Suclde

Toi masoosoo

Sugar-cane

Tevoo.

Sun

Lera.

Sweet

Kaslooir

Minaminat.

Tattooing ..

Belbela.

Teelh

Nifat ; nifa rida.

'I'esticles . .

Kamad.

There (to) . .

Tatin-heri.

Tliatch

Eafet.

Thread, Ihread

of which native

sarongs are made

Kar ..

Avat; ahjiin.

Thumb ..

Limad keteh.

Thunder . .

Nafdud '.'. '.'.

Dodong.

Tibia, tuberosity of

Gnangoi.

Ties, made of sugar-palm

Eira.

Toe, great . .

Eiid tanan keteh.

Toe, second (1)

little toe (2) ..

E'ad tanan frooan (I);
frooan kewaren (2).

Toe-nail . .

Edd uooa.

Toe ring . .

Sitanea.

To-day

Lervava.

To-morrow

]Meran

Vera-vcra.

Tongue

Eard.

Trousers . .

(?) Kada.

Understand

Okai

Fanowak.

Verv ; very beautiful

Koak ; lolin roak.

Wake

..

Batai

Wash

Burik

(?) Wangir.

Wash, hands

Tiflaru trame.

Wash, teeth

Tonumur.

Water

AVehr'

Ooiir.

Waves (1) ; large waves (2)

Voo-vooat (1)

Saksabau (1); lalawa

(2).

Wax

Lilin

Weep

Mroon

Fakar.

West

Warat mololau.

White

Nan<rear

Naugcar.

Wife

Ho(3d

Wind

Nioot

Neet; lar.

Window ..

Yanella.

Wing

Halp.iin

Halaiin.

Wire

Bilbal

Ververi.

Wish

Kan gen

In an rob.

Woman

Vat-vat

Vafa ; mnilat.

Wood

Ai

Saifa.

Work

Tootwafa.

Yellow

Toomtoom .

Numerals : —

1 =

esa. i

i = cwaloo. I

0 = ootlinia.

2 =

eroo. J

> = esi. (

30 = ootnean.

a =

ettdco. K

= csapuloo.

"0 = ootfitoo.

• 4 =

el at 2(

' = ootrooa. i

?0 = ootwaloo.

5 =

elima. 3(

) = etotoloo. {

)0 = ootsi.

6 =

encaii. i(

) = ootfaat. 1(

)0 = ratoo.

7 =

cfitoo.

PAET V.

IN THE ISLAND OF BURU.

CHAPTER I.

FROM KAJELI TO THE LAKE.

From Amboina to Buru — Xajcli— Trade of Kajeli — Birds— River Apu— "\\'ai
Bloi village — Village of Wai Gelau — The Matakau — Forced encampments
— Wai Klaba — A Pomalied mountain — -Wasilale — Hospitable reception
— Houses — Musical performance— L^omali signs — Arrive at Lalia.

Having packed up and despatched my Timor-laiit collections
to Europe, I left Amboina on the afternoon of the Ttli of

November (A remaining behind with our kind hosts) for

Biiru, an island a short distance to the west, with the inten-
tion of reaching the central region round the rarely visited
Lake of Wakolo. Next morning at daybreak w^e were steam-
ing under the shade of the " Mother and Daughter " mountains
of the Dutch maps, whose picturesquely rugged peaks, stand-
ing out against the sky like giant minster towers, mark the
eastern promontory of the Bay of Kajeli, in whose southern
bend lies the town of the same name, where I landed in the
forenoon, and was kindly offered a room in the house of Post-
holder Bergmann.

The town is situated on a low morassy plain, which, during
the rainy season, is often wholly inundated, and has the
reputation of being very unlioalthy, the people being afflicted
with malarial and rheumatic fevers, and I am told also with
sterility. Its most conspicuous edifice is the Fort, enclosed in
massive embrasured walls erected in 1778 by the Dutch close
to tlie shore, to protect the Bay from the pirate hordes who
used to make Buru their special slave-kidnapping ground.
There is now. however, a distance of from seven hundred to
eight hundred yards of a tall grass covered sandy flat separat-
ing it from the margin of the water, which has been gained
from the sea in little over 100 years.

Its great items of exjjort are fish (which, during tlie latter
months of the year arc driven into the Bay in enormous

592 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

quantities), sago, and the famons Kajuput oil,* distilled by
the natives from the leaves of the giirn trees {Melaleuca
Kajuputl) which form a large part of the vegetation of the
shores of the Bay. In the year previous to my visit 90,000
bottles, worth £9,200, were shipped for Macassar, Singapore,
and China. From Masaretti, one of the villages in the south
coast, a large trade is done with Amboina in Katjang beans
[Arachis hypogxa), in Hotjong (Eleusine coracana), and in
pigs, in exchange for copper gongs, in whose music the natives
greatly delight. These pigs, brought from the moimtainous
parts of the interior, having been fed on sago, which gives
their flesh a specially fine flavour, fetch a higher price in the
market than any other.

The island is divided into rajah-sliips, whose rajahs reside
in Kajeli and spend most of their time under the influence of
opium.

One of the chief points of interest to me in Buru, was the
fact that it has been considered — not on any very certain data
— as the starting-point of the final dispersion of the autoch-
thenes of the archipelago, the Mahori (or Polynesian) races,!
eastAvard to their Pacific homes. As between the coast tribes
and the Alefurus of the interior, who, according to their own
superstitions " durst not approach the sea so near as to hear
it breaking on the shore without being struck with dire sick-
ness," there has never been much inter-communication, I was
very anxious to see these little contaminated people of the
interior.

I was disappointed, however, to find that my ofiicial letters
for aid were useless without " instructions " from the Resident
(I had applied ofiicially for them to Mr. Piedel, but he
abstained from taking any notice of my letter), tlie Post-holder
was not at liberty to assist me in obtaining porters or other
transport to the lake ; but as he was himself very soon to go
there officially, he would be very jjleased, he said, if I would
accompany him. As it was impossible for me to obtain the
necessary transport except through the rajahs at the instance
of the Post-holder, I was gla<l on any terms of the chance

* This is the Dutch spelling:; cf the Malny Kayu = wooJ or tree, puti
= white, from the colour of the bark of the tree,
■f Consult Stanford's Compendium of Geography, Australasia, app., p. G12.

IN BUBU. 393

of penetrating into this interesting island. Meanwhile I
employed myself in collecting round Kajeli, where I obtained
many of the species of birds discovered there by llr. Wallace,
'and described by him in the "Proceedings of the Zoological
Society" for 1863, among them the interesting oriole (Oriolns
huruensis) and the honey bird {Philemon moluccensis) which
it mimics, both closely resembling the corresponding species
shot in Larat, as well as the pretty Kajeli kingfisher [Ceyx cajeli),
the Aprosmidus huruensis, and the rare Eclectus intermedius.

On the 14:th we started for our first stage towards the Lake,
the village of Wai Bloi (where we were to find our transport
men waiting us), accompanied by the Eajah of Kajeli, in
whose district the Lake lies, and the Pati of Lisela throuorh a
portion of whose territory we had to pass. The way to AVai
(river) Bloi, the first village beyond the morass land fringing
the shore, lay up the river Wai Apu, which debouches in
the centre of the Kajeli Bay, an hour's sail from the town.

The river near its embouchure splits into many arms among
the mangrove swamj^s, then winds for hours through low
morass between banks green with fern-hedges dipping their
fronds into the sluggish water under the shade of tall slender
trees. Higher up these gave place to Pandan thickets out of
which rose tall Lont?.r-, Pinang-, and wild sago- {Metroxyhn
jilare) palms, and graceful tree ferns. Where the banks were
less submerged the jungle became very dense behind a thick
barrier of JMangabrabu in profuse flower {Cerhera odallam and
C. ladaria) Apocynaceous shrubs, Avhich lined the river sides
for miles, and dotted the water with their white blossoms.
Out of this thicket an occasional black cuckoo {Eudynamis
ransomi) flew out as we passed, while on the taHer trees whoso
heads shot up above the jungle sat many white Nutmeg-
pigeons {Mi/n'sticivora meJanura) and here and there a red-
necked lia\Nk (Accijriter ruhricoUis).

After four hours of liard rowing, the blue hills shot up
ri'i'lit ahead and broke the G:looni of the monotonous vej^e-

r^ o o

tation wliich liad bounded our view, and between which,
throughout the rest of the hot afternoon, our prau was now
slowly dragged through frequent rapids, now laboriously
poled upwards against the swiftening stream. Baked in our
cramped position iu the narrow boat, the journey would

394 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

have been almost unbearable, but for the frequent flash of
insect — bright Papilios and Ornitliopteras — and of bird — -the
orange Pachycephalas, the yellow TV hite-cyes (Zosterojjs), lazily
flapping Herons, and the blue-plumaged scarlet-billed Water-
hens {Porphyrio melanopteru&) — wliich darted to and fro across
the stream.

At dark, in the midst of a heavy rain, we reach the con-
fluence of the Wai Bloi, about 200 feet above the sea, where
several Alefnrus — the name by which all the natives of the
interior I met call themselves — were waiting to carry us on
suspended chairs to the village about a mile distant. The
Alefurus can scarcely be said to inhabit villages ; they live
more frequently in isolated houses on the patch of land they
cultivate or in small communities. Those, however, within
certain regions denominated Soas seem to have claims on each
other of consanguinity or friendship ; as if the members of a
large village had dispersed, and, while living separately, still
recognised all the former ties in times of difficulty or war.
Each Soa has its chief, and Merinyo or under chief, who is
responsible to Forterus, officials who receive in the name of
the rajah the tribute of their gardens and fields as well as
compel them to give their produce, in exchange for coast goods
at an exorbitant profit.

Next day we took a westward course through fields of tall
Kussu grass dotted with Kayu-puti trees, and through swamjjs
full of sago palms. At early forenoon we rested for a little at the
villao-e cluster of the Kiver Gelan, one of the tributaries of the
'River Apu. Overarching the path was an open shed with
benches along each side on which we reclined, serving possibly
as a general meeting room or rest-house for passers correspond-
ing to the Balai of Sumatra, or the Baluai of Amboina.
When we arrived we found a sleeping child tied in a blanket
swaying to and fro at the end of a rope hung from the rafters.
It had been thus left to be rocked and nursed by the wind, till
its mother returned from the fields ! As soon as a traveller
arrived 1 noticed that he was at once waited on by the women
of the village who brought siri, betel and chalk, and a hot
ember to light his cigarette. The women seemed to live in
great subjection to the men, who never did anything for them-
selves if a woman was within call.

IN BURU.

395

Their houses were of the most miserable description, fairly
well-roofed but without any furniture or conveniences, with the
exception of a narrow platform raised a few feet above the
earthen floor for sleeping on. Behind each house I observed
a small thatched structure which
they called the Matahau, the
sacred place of the Alefuru
wherein, by burning dammar,
he propitiates the Great Spirit
Allah Stalla. The Matakau is
a small platform erected on a
short pole and roofed over with
palm-leaf thatch from whose
eaves all round hangs down a
long fringe of split-up palm
leaflets. Inside are preserved a
knife, a spear, a Kau turin or
thick walking-stick constantly
carried by the natives on tlieir
journeys (with these they are «:^c=:r:r:^
adepts at quarter-staff; I was
much amused by seeing two
children practising uith singu- matakau.

lar skill their cuts and guards, quite unconscious of being
watched), a dish containing siri, betel and chalk, and a piece of
scarlet cloth. Before sowing any of their fields, some of the
seed is always placed inside the i\Iatakau, dammar is burned,
and their ritual performed in order to secure its fructification.

Their most dreaded and respected oath is made, holding the
sharp top of a sago palm leaf in the hand, on the sacred knife
and spear taken from the Matakau ; for they believe in the power
of these pomali- weapons to harm them at any unguarded
moment. Another form of adjuration is in drinking after
making their declaration, water in which had been placed salt
(that they may melt away), a blade of Kussu-grass (that they
may be scarred as by its edges), a lance and a knife (that
their bodies be pierced, cut and run through) if they have
sworn falsely.

Proceeding on our way, we camped for the night in the
forest under a canopy made of the long leaves of the sago-

396 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

l^alm cut down and arranged for us by the Alefurus. Un-
fortunately for the quick progress of our march, my German
companion, unaccustomed to travel, was easily fatigued, and
both the native chiefs were devotees of the opium pipe, and
were constantly finding all manner of excuses for a halt too
readily acquiesced in by Mr. Bergmann. No sooner was the
order given than their blankets were at once sjjread on the
ground, and the soothing narcotic produced.

Next day we journeyed through Kussu-grass fields, with
scarcely a vestige of forest, and only sparse belts or low scrub
of Melaleuca and Melastoma, without having the satisfaction of
seeing a single bird or insect. The country now began to rise
in successive steps, first over a height of 500 feet, down 400
feet, to rise again 600 feet.

On the third day we w'cre compelled to camp at noon on the
banks of the Klaba, on another of those excuses — that no
other stream could be reached within the day's march — which
the Eajah of Kajeli, who had never gone the road in his life,
was constantly making to enable him to resume his soporific
smoke. The Klaba, like all the other streams we had crossed,
was making for tlie Apu. The valley was set with more clumps
of trees and cycads than any of those we had yet traversed.

A short way behind I had observed tall bamboo spikes
bristling thickly among the grass, for the purpose evidently of
catching deer and pig driven towards them by firing the grass
in a wide semicircle around them, xVfter our huts — made of
the bark of Commersonia ecliinata, a very abundant tree
there — were erected, I started with my hunters and some of
the Alefurus as beaters, in hopes of securing a haunch of
venison for our larder. We were fortunate in meeting within
an hour with two little herds, from the second of which I secured
a fine young stag. While it was being prepared, I scoured the
bed of a dry stream behind the camp, and caught numerous
fine Tiger Beetles (Cecindelidse) and many species of a Tenaris,
a butterfly closely resembling the Tenaris urania of Amboina,
but being much paler, I have separated it by the name
T. huruensis.

Next day another very short march was made, a halt being
called on the pretext that a ridge of the mountain in front of
us was Kiiing or tabooed. As we could not pass over it before

IN BUEU: 397

sundown, and might not bo camped on it, we had to pass the
night again in the forest in a dense rain, on the slope above our
former camp, 1500 feet above the sea. At break of next day
we continued the ascent of Mount Makka to about 2000 feet
above the sea, passing through low sparse jungle full oiBipteris
liorsjieldii ferns and thickets of the bracken (which so often
accompanies it), till we came on the Kiiing region w'hich had
been a great forest, but had only recently been burned down
leaving 'many of the lifeless stems standing, and from the
falling of whose dead limbs the Alefurus seemed to stand in
great dread. No one dared to speak to his neighbour during
our passage ; I was besought not to shoot, and above all no
one might use certain proscribed words for fear of disaster.
No Buruese of the interior, it is said, can dare to approach
the sea so near as to hear the beating of the surf without
falling ill. Whether the superstition has arisen from the fact
that the sea could be seen from the high elevation we were
on, or whether it was because it might be the residing place of
hostile spirits, I do not know. All along the way I could hear
them repeating some sort of invocation, and on quitting the
noxious region, one of the men stopped behind to erect another
of those little w-hite stakes three to five feet high, which we
had seen at various places along the tabooed region — a branch
carefully stripped of all its bark, its extremity wrapped round
with a piece of scarlet cloth, and sharpened, to be tipped w ith a
morsel of pinang nut. I imagine these pillars to be thanks'-
giving offerings to the spirit of the place for a safe passage.

Descending to the river Wohangan, which we crossed at
about 1000 foot above the sea, we halted for lunch, the
Alefurus rubbing their limbs and bodies till they were quite
blistered, with the leaves of a very sharp stinging nettle,
TJrtica cvcdlfolia, " to take away their fatigue." "\Vo had at
last entered a more wooded country, and I noted on the damp
shade many fine Zingiheracess never seen before in flower, and
a Bidijmocarpus witli a white corolla margined witli deep
indigo. Aloug the banks of the stream I observed also quite
a number of butterflies I had not seen elsewhere, and wer^
I to return to Jiuru I should certainly nuike a prolonged stay
near this river.

Ivaiu compelled us again to camp in the forest. After a
27

398 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

comfortless night we ascended the steep side of the Woresa,
this time to 3000 feet, camping on its farther slope in another
deluge of rain, in which we were thoroughly drenched. The
Aleturus extemporised for themselves elegant shelters by
piling a thatch of extra branches on the tied- together toDS
of neighbouring bushy shrubs. These, dotted about round
our larger bark-made huts, formed, when lit up by our large
central fire, quite a picturesque camp, ^Yhich we were too wet to
be in a humour to enjoy much.

We proceeded next day in a very unfit state from the chill
of the previous night, but we had not gone far when some
anxiety was caused by finding the ground set with bamboo
spikes. Not knowing whether this was a sii:n of hostility
towards us or against some former enemy we kept the bacrgage
back a little and went on ourselves ahead, with loaded arms ;
but finding no other traces we descended without further
thought of ill to the Wai Gelan, another large river, making,
as all the streams we had yet crossed, to join with tributaries
of the tributaries of the Apu. Except at a few spots, the
paucity of birds, insects, and also snakes for which Burn has
a bad reputation but of which we had not seen a single
specimen, surprised me very much. From the Wai Gelan the
ascent — each height exceeded the one before it all the way to
the coast — was very steep and slippery, which the Aldfurus,
inciting each other with cries of Gossa, gossa (good, good),
required all their strength to get our baggage up. At 2400
feet, coming on a few houses called W^asilale in the middle of
a forest garden, the first signs of life we had seen since leaving
the river Bloi, we decided to halt for the night, and press
forward to the lake next day.

AVe took up our quarters in a rest-house of the most abject
description, but quite in keeping with their own miserable
dwellings. Three or four men, who had shortly after our
arrival started off evidently to their gardens, returned carrying
between them a large pig which they had killed to mark the
rare event of European visitors in their midst. The women and
girls hurried about bringing blocks of stone, with which they
formed a large paved area to serve as an oven, whereon they
piled a roaring fire till the stones began to burst from the heat
in loud reports. As soon as the stones were heated to the

IN BUEU. 399

heart, hastily clearing off the fire they threw the pig body-bulk
on the glowing stones, closely covering it up with fresh green
banana leaves. In little over an hour we had served up to us
a piece of pork baked to perfection, the most deliciously
flavoured I have ever tasted. When we had rested some time
after our meal their jubilation was further marked by a musical
performance given in one of their huts, and, as we were invited
to attend, I had an opportunity of seeing the interior arrange-
ment of their houses.

They were constructed of uneven strips of tree bark, roughly
set up side by side on the unlevelled ground, held in phice by
narrow rinds of bamboo on each side, tightly tied together by
thongs at the gaps between each strip of bark. By these wide
chinks the pigs and dogs made the dwelling as much theirs
as tlie owner's. The roof was of palm thatch and badly put
on patches of bark. At both gables was a quadrangular hole
to serve as doorway and window, closed by a squarish piece of
bark hung by a thong through a hole in the wall above it.
Between these openings there ran a central passage, full (as I
saw it) of pools of water. The space on each side of this
passage was divided off by low bark partitions into three or
four narrow stalls (across the top of which was piled their
store of wood logs) such as might be found in the worst
possible cowhouse ; while against the wall where one would
look for a manger was a small platform raised two or
three feet from the ground, to serve for seat or bed. The
fire was made anywhere wliioh was for the moment most
convenient — in the passage, or in one of the stalls — the smoke
oozing through the numerous chinks and by a small patch
raised in one of the rows of thatch. There was not in the
whole dwelling a single article of furniture or any decorative
artifice or a single device for affording ccmvcnience or comfort.

To accommodate me with a seat to listen to the musical
" function," a large stone had to be brought in. The per-
formers, who were of both sexes, disposed themselves in the
passage on stones and logs. The men sang an improvised
song to their own vigorous accompaniment on the native Ufa,
or drum, to which the women, sitting on their heels, languidly
supporting their heads on their arms, which rested on their
knees, contributed an unchanging refrain at the end of every

400 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

few words of the song. The men seemed to enjoy themselves,
often laughing heartily at their own improvised conceits, but
the women might have been absolute automata ; for not a
single expression of pleasure, interest, or enjoyment ever
passed over their impassive features. Tho exhibition was
one of the saddest possible pictures of the miserable position
among the Alefurus of the woman, who, though not treated
with cruelty or harshness, lives in abject uncomplaining
slavery — as if for the man alone all things, woman especially,
were created.

Next morning, starting early, we continued our ascent
through dense forest, full of Ternstrcemaceous trees to
3600 feet above the sea, the highest point reached in our
journey. Just at the summit I came on a curious Pomali sign
set up in the forest to protect probably some part of it from
depradation. Its exact meaning I could not find out. It
consisted of a low house shaped structure, somewhat like the
Matakau seen at Wai Bloi village, and fixed in the ground,
protected from harm by large wide couples of wood. Under
its cover six little pillars were set in the ground ; on the top
of one was a peg a few inches high whose tip was set into a
cross-piece of sago-palm pith forming a T device, Avhile into
this cross-piece Avere inserted two small nails of wood, each
bearing a pellet, the root of the Halia (? the officinal ginger) ;
on two otliers. whose tops were encircled by a rattan girdle,
within which several wooden wedges were driven, sharp
bamboo sj)ikes (such as are stuck in the ground to wound
unwary travellers) were suspended by a cord ; the fourth had
its summit split for some length by two or three wedges of
wood ; the fifth, girdled with a rattan ring, had a iiicce of halia
inserted below a chip of wood and transfixed to the summit
with a peg, while the sixth was a luimboo full of water. The
Alefurus accompanying me said, that each pillar indicated
a species of retribution that would overtake the trespasser.

Commencing our descent we reached a stream running in
a westerly direction, wliich conducted us to a few houses on the
margin of the Lake, which had been visited by white men but
three or four times in as many hundred years.

IN BUJRU. 401

CHAPTER II.

AT LAKE WAKOLO.

The Lake — The people there — Garments — Cultivation — ^Arms and accoutre-
ments— Marriage — Death rites — Superstitions about the lake — Explana-
tion of its position and of the absence of fish in it — New birds — Great
disappointment — Return to Kajeli — Thence to Amboina — Compelled to
leave the Moluccas — A kind farewell — Leave for Timor.

Mr. Bergmann, the Post-holder, had hoped, he said, to find
some 2000 people living round the lake, and to stay for at
least a week or ten days ; but we found only some seven or
eight houses as poor as the few we had already passed, and he
decided on the afternoon of our arrival to start back in a couple
of days to the coast. This was a grievous disappointment to
me after so difficult and arduous a journey. As he would not
be induced to stay, and without the presence of the Rajahs who
would accompany him I could obtain nothing, either in the
way of food or of porterage, I could only make the most,
therefore, of the few hours at my disposal. I devoted the
remainder of the first day to seeing something of the people,
and in sketching tlieir f(.'atnr(!S.

The lake mountaineers, living so far removed from all coast
interference, and rarely, if ever, visiting the shore, should be
better representatives of the Buruese than the low country
tribes who are now quite tinctured in manners and customs, as
well as in race, by an infinite variety of influences— and where
indeed is the race now to be found not so contaminated by
extraneous forces ? The ideas as well as the manufactures of
Avestern lands are beginning to be felt and seen in the huts
of the rudest tribes, and among the people the most distant
from civilisation. It is therefore more incumbent than ever
on all travellers to record with the utmost fidelity every
minutia; of the customs and ideas of the rude peoples they
encounter, for with the disappearance of their untainted

402 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

legends, words and thoughts, will die out a chapter ot far-
j)ast history that can never be recovered again on the globe.

The men are of medium height — averaging about 5 feet
2 inches — and a little taller than the women. They are a
weak, emaciated, ill-conditioned, and somewhat effeminate-
looking race. Many of them suffer from the fungoid skin
disease so often met with among the badly nurtured peoples
further to the east. They are not a warlike people, and are
not head-hunters like the Ceramese.

In colour they are brown, or yellowish brown, and, as far as
my observations go, none of them are black as the Aru jDCople
are. Their hair is fairly abundant on the head, but not
profuse, in fact rather scanty on other parts of the body.
Their faces are bare, as a rule, though a few have a few long
hairs at the corners of the mouth and the upper lip. The
head-hair is not worn in the high-matted frizzled coiffure
as seen among some of the Papuans, but it is curled in
a more or less loose manner well seen in the figure on the
opposite page. It is j^arted in the centre as a rule, and
allowed to hang down on both sides in loose irregular curls,
appearing through and above the kerchief which is worn
round the head. Dr. Bastian, in his ' Indonesien,' states that
the AVakolo Lake Buruese have smooth hair ; but this is not
absolutely the case. Nearer the coast, however, hair as straight
as in any Sundanese is met with. That form of nose with
high dorsum and over-hanging tiji which I observed conspicu-
ously in Timor-laut, and subsequently in the interior of Timor,
as seen in the concluding Part of this book, was not observed
among the Buruese ; nor yet that tall and more athletic build
of man (and woman) which could not escape observation in
both of the islands just named. The Wakolo women had the
same meek and submissive bearing that I had noticed in those
met with nearer the coast.

Very few of them wear ornaments beyond a small stud of
silver in the ear ; the children are provided with a piece of
dried intestine of the Cuscus in their ear-lobes, and round their
necks ; while both sexes wear armlets of shell, of a thong-like
corneous coralline called by the Malays aJcar hahar, and of the
intestine of the Cuscus.

The garments worn by the men were the usual T-bandage,

^"^

NATIVE OF WAKOLO VILLAGE, LAKE WAKOLO.

7.V BUltU. 403

and \}\ the women a short sarong, or petticoat, or a long loose
smock-like robe.

In fields cleared out of the forest — which seem to belong
to the man who has cleared them, and his heirs, as long as
tliey do not return to wild forest — they cultivate tobacco,
corn, and the usual sweet tubers, species of ConvoIvit\is and
Colocasia, wliich they eat to tlie juice of the boiled Sait
(Pandaniis eeranncus) one of the most magnificent scarlet
fruits of their forests. Not much rice is grown, but it is
received in exchange from the Alefurus of the lower country
for tobacco and tubers, tifas (or drums), and the strong woven
Coi or wallet, so universally carried. I was not permittc I
to go into their fields, as strangers and coast people are
tabooed, for fear of some evil befalling their poomalied seeds,
and cannot, therefore, speak of their mode of cultivation.
From the cotton {Gossypmta micranthum), which tbey cultivate
themselves, they make their own thread.

The only baggage an Alefuru carries with him besides his
hau-turin or cudgel, and a spear, is the Coi, a strong satchel
slung on his buttocks by a cord round his waist, in which he
carries his tobacco and those })rized comforts of his tribe — siri
leaves, betel-nut, and chalk often contained, in a slightly orna-
mented gourd. In former times the women in every villa-^e
in Burn could weave these cois ; now, however, the lower
country tribes, haviug acquired increased wealth by the
development of trade in the various products they so easily
grow or rear, ajul with wealth laziness by their ability to supply
their wants without labouring, have quite forgotten or aban-
doned the art, and are dependent for their supply on the
mountaineers to whcmi the knowledge of their manufacture
is confined. The cloth, called by them haiii fuJca, of which
these satchels are made is a very strong almost indestructible
canvas, \\hich they render perfectly waterproof by rubl)ing
into it the juice expressed from the bark of a tree, Jciilit rofu,
probably one of the Artocarpex. To them is also confined the
art of hollowing out of Pinang and Nangka {Artiwarpus) h»gs,
of the tifas or drums, which are so indispensable at all their
feasts and religious ceremonies, as well as of the manufacture
of their s})ears and knives, the art of iron working also being
forgotten by the dwellers nearer the coast.

404 A NATUBA LIST'S WANDERINOS

Marriage among them, as far as I could learn, was the simple
purchase of a woman for a large sum in all manner of trade
articles, and is celebrated by a feast. Very often she is pur-
chased when yet a child, and is reared in the house of her
master and husband, who may have as many wives as he
can afford. If the husband cannot pay the full price at once,
his family have to undertake part of the responsibility of
payment, and till then the woman is in servitude to the whole
family. On the death of the man she is reckoned as part
of his goods, and falls with his other property to his heirs,
who may sell her again to another suitor for a price not
less than she has cost. . T)\e children of the union are the
father's exclusive property and thereafter of his relations. If
no suitor desires to marry his widow she remains in the
cheerless lot of a menial slave and concubine of the husband's
family.

Their death rites are also curious and interesting as being
in some respects similar to those practised in different parts
of Australia. As soon as life is extinct the man's body is
brought out on a bier in front of his house and laid on the
ground, with the head in front of a stake driven into the ground.
The bier is struck several times and the questions put, " Have
you died by the will of Allah Stalla?" or "Has death been
the result of the machinations of mortal man ? " If the body
move forwards to strike the stake, the reply is supposed to be
in the affirmative. If the intimation is that death has not
been natural, the corpse is questioned in order to find the
delinquent through all the Rajah-ships, till the correct one is
indicated ; then through all the Soas or villages, and through
all the individuals of the selected Soa, till the culprit's name is
obtained, who is at once seized and condemned to pay a death
fine, for the backbone a certain price, for each right and left
rib, for each hand and foot, for the head and the contents of
the body, each a fixed sum ; altogether a large amount in
every species of trade article.

The Buruese are firm believers in Swangies, or spirits of
their fellows endowed with tiie power to go about disembodied,
working evil (generally) to their neighbours. An individual
with this power is greatly dreaded, and derives not a few
presents, for the purpose of retaining his goodwill, as also

IN BUllU. 405

payment from those who desire some evil to befall an enemy
without suspicion of its originator. The Swangi is supposed
to be able to cover with misfortune whom he will without
their being aware whence the disaster comes.

Their dead are buried in the forest in some secluded spot
far from other graves, and marked often by a merang or grave
pole, and over which at certain intervals their relatives place
tobacco, cigarettes, and various offerings. When the body is
decomposed, the son or nearest relative disinters the head,
wraps a new cloth about it, and places it in the Matakau at the
back of his house, or in a little hut erected for it near the
grave. It is the representative of his forefathers whose behests
he holds in the greatest respect.

The day after our arrival was spent from break of dav in
botanising, collecting birds, and in examining the lake. This
is a magnificent sheet of water, several miles in diameter and
some 40 to 50 fathoms deep, indented with many beautiful
bays, embracing the hills which abruptly rise up from it on all
sides. It was not an easy matter to get the Merinyo of the
place to give us a boat and rowers to make an examination of its
margins, and only after a long invocation to the spirit of the
Lake would he consent to accompany us. It is only with
the utmost awe and dread that they trust themselves on its
surface. They have many strange legends concerning it. One
of these is that at certain periods a Lagundi tree {Vitex sp.)
suddenly grows up the centre of the Lake, its appearance
being accompanied by fearful storms of wind and waves, and
the terrified cries of the birds that crowd its margins. On
the subsiding of the storm tlie Lagundi is found to have dis-
appeared. Another superstition is, that on the firing of a gun
a thunderstorm is liable to break out, sent by the angered
spirits. Every chief, therefore, on his arrival at the Lake
plants a white stick in the ground as a signal of peace. The
AVakolo men who rowed me kept up an invocation the whole
time we were out, and they positively refused to take me
out into the middle or even very far from the shore. A
crocodile: — one of the animals sacred in the mythology of Burn
— is also supposed to reside in the lake, whence once a year
it pays a visit to the shore.
,. It is singular that no fish except eels live in its waters.

40G A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

Lying in the very centre of the island, at a height of some
1901) feet above the sea, and surrounded by high hills — except
at one point, where, it is said, though I could not detect any-
thing to assure me of the truth of the statement, that the
Wai Nipe runs out of it^it has much the appearance of
a lake filling up the crater of an old volcano, to which their
legend of its periodical troubling may have some reference.
The margins of the water were set with flags and shrubby
pandans, which gave shelter to thousands and thousands of
ducks (Bendrocygna guttata)— oi which I secured a large
number — little Grebes (Podiceps), and Cormorants (Phalocra-
corax), and several species of AVater-hen {Porphyrio). The
whole day was spent in spinning these birds, and putting up
the plants in drying paper.

On the following day some of the women returning from
their fields brought me a specimen of a Myzomela, which they
had taken with the gum of an Artocarpus tree, Avhich delighted
me immensely, as no species of this genus was then known to
extend so far to the west. It turned out on examination to be
an undescribcd species, which I have named Myzomela ivalco-
loensis. I asked them to show me where the specimen had
been obtained ; but as it was in their gardens which are
tabooed to coast people, I would not persuade them to admit
me. On offering, however, a large reward for additional speci-
mens, several women, set off back to their fiehls, whence in the
afternoon they returned with a quite number all fluttering on
a string ; most of them had lost their tails and were entirely
smeared with gum, a few only being at all presentable.
Among these true scarlet JMyzomelas was an immature Nec-
tarine bird in a wretched condition, with the basal portion of
its beak greenish-yellow and the rest black, which is pro-
bably also another and unknown species of Myzomela. By
working continuously right through the night till sunrise,
the whole of the skins were ready for transport, as well as
nearly a hundred species of plants.

When the coolies were mustered to shoulder the baggage
only two or three put in an appearance, the rest had de-
serted, and only after impressing into our service some of
the women did we manage to start with the food necessary for
the journey. It was not with the most amiable feelings toNvards

IN BUBU. 407

the Authority at Amboina that I was f:rced to leave behind
me the herbarium I had taken such pains to collect. The
skins I carried myself, leaving my own men free to assist with
the food supply. Beaching, with our overburdened porters,
the little hamlet of Wasilale, where we had spent a night
on our coming, my companion Avho was suffering from fever,
wished to remain till the attack had passed ; we agreed, there-
fore, that, as I was anxious to reach Kajeli before the arrival
of the Amboina steamer, I should press on in advance with
my own servants and baggage, and on arrival at the Bloi
river send him the necessary additional porters. On the fore-
noon of the fifth day from the Lake I reached the Wai Bloi
village, whence I despatched assistance to my companion, and
reached Kajeli the same evening.

I had hoped to be able to get across to the region in the
S.E. of the Bay of Kajeli, where alone in Burn the singular
Hog-deer (the Bahirusa), which is known elsewhere only in
Celebes, Avas to be found ; but again I was disappointed for
want of porters and rowers. This singular animal uses its
curious upturned and hooked teeth, the natives told mc, to
hold to the bottom of ponds by, when hard pressed by hunters.

So disappointed was I with my trip to Burn, from which
I had hoped much, and might have accomplished much but
for a display of absurd and petty jealousy, that I was glad
when the steamer of the 12 th arrived from Batjian to carry me
back to Amboina, which was reached the same evening.

Finding that 3Ir. Eiedel's attitude towards us was such as to
make it quite useless to attempt to carry on any investiga-
tions in the islands of the Moluccas under his sway, I determined
to leave for a time to attempt a journey in the interior of
the little known region of Timor under the Portuguese crown.
It is only fair to state that the conduct of the Resident was
utterly repudiated by the Dutch Government in Java, and
on my arrival in Batavia, six months afterv^ards, 1 I'eceived
from them the kindest and most ample apologies.

The steamer, from whicli I had just disembarked, having
to remain two days in Amboina, we hastily packed up our
belongings and continued our voyage in the same vessel. The
friends through whom this last sojourn in Amboina had been
made S) full of enjoyment, Mr. Justice and Madame Van

408 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

De venter, the Commander of the troops Colonel Demini, now
H.E. the Governor of Acheen — to whom I am indebted for
the gift of a large and valuable collection of ethnological
objects from Coram — Major Van der Weide, the Chief of
the Medical Staff, and Dr. and Madame Machik, our most
kind hosts to whom we owe our introduction to so many-
delightful friends, paid us the compliment of accompanying
us on board to say farewell.

IN BURU. 409

APPENDIX TO PAET Y.

I. List of the Birds of Buru, rompUed from papers hij Mr. A. E.
Wallace in P. Z. S. 1863,7?. 18-36, Inj Count T. Salvadori in Ann.
del Mus. Civico di ktor. Nat. di Genova, VIII., the Author^s oiun
Collection, and other sources.

1. Haliastur leucosterniis, G/)m7J.

2. Baza iheinwardli, Sch. Timor. Moluccas.

3. Accipiter rubricollis, Wal. Ceiani. Gilolo.

4. Accipter cruentus. Gould. Timor.

5. Athene hantu, W'aJlaep.

6. Scops I urucusis, Sharpe.

7. GeolVioyus riioiloi s, (J. 7?. (?r. Amboina. Ceram. Goram.

8. Eclectus caidiiiiilis, Bi dd. Molm-cas. New Giiiuea.
0. Taiiygnatlius affinis, Wal. Amboina. Ceram.

10. graniineus, Gm.

H. A) rosmictus biiruensie, /SaZp.

12. Trichoglofsiis cyaiio<Trammus, Wugl. Ceram. Papuan Islands.

13. Eo:j rnbrit, Gm. Amboina. Ceram. Matabello Islands.

14. Capi imiilgns mncrurus, i/or*i/. AVliole Archipelago.

15. Deudmchelidon mys aceus. Less. Moluccas. New Guinea.
IG. Cacomant s virescens, Briigg.

17. Eudynaniis orientalis, Linn. Ceram.

IS. (cntropus mediiis, Bp. Ceram. (iilolo.

19. 8cythrops nova;-liollandia\ Lath. Tiirior.

2ii. Sauropati.s chloris. Bod. Wimle Archipelago.

21. Halcyon saiicta, Vig. <fr Ilcrsf. Enstwaid Islands.

22. Alccdo ispidoides, Less. Celebes. Gilolo.

23. Tanysiptera ncis. Wall.
24..CcyxCajeli, Wall.

2^. ^lerops ornatus, Lnlh.

2<3. Euryfetornus pacificus. Lath. Eastward Islands.

27. P.tta riibrinuciia. Wall.

28. IJudytes viridi.s Gus.

29. Acrocephalu.s auslralis, Gould.

30. Cisticola rustica. Wall.

31. Pliyllopneubte javanica, J?7).

32. Oriolus burucnsi?, Quoij k Gains.

33. Crinigcr mystiealis, Wall.

34. Artanius leticogaster, Val.

35. Myiagra galeata, G. II. Gr.
3(5. Monarcha loricata, Wall.

37. Khipidiira tricolor, Vied. Moluccas. New Guinea.

38. buruensis, Wal.
39.

40. Pacliyccphala clio. Wall.

41. lineolata. Wall

42. rufesconi^. Wall.

43. DIcruriis amboineusis, G. B. Gr. An.boina. Ceram.

410 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

44. Edoliisoma marginatum, Wall.

45. Philemon moluccensis, Gm.
4G. Dicajura erythrothorax, Less.

47. Zosterops chloris, B;p.

48. Myzomela WAKOLOiixsis, E. 0. Forbes. P. Z. S. 1883, p. IIC. ^Fig. Gould,
B. New Guinea, part 18.)

The full-dress bird is entirely scarlet, the bases of the feathers being
black ; the wiags, the tail, and the preocular spot are black ; the iipper
"wing-coverts are black with a scarlet band on the outer webs nearly in
the middle, but not extending to the extremity of tbe feather : the inner
margins of the remiges are white ; the irides are rich brown ; the edges of
the lower maxilla yelloAV ; tongue yellow ; legs and feet yellowish green ;
soles yellow.

The young male is at first almost entirely greyish brown ; the throat is
pale grey ; but quite below the maxilla and under the eyes the orange-red
colour indicates the coming scarlet ; the back is greyish-brown, but of a
deeper colour in the uropygial region ; the wings and the tail are brown-
ish grey; the breast and under tail-coverts greenish fulvous; the margins
of the upper wing-coverts pale fawn colour with, in some lights, reflections
of red ; the margins of the remiges are olive-grey ; the throat, the front
of the head, the breast, and the uropygial recion are the first to assume
the scarlet colour of the adult ; the angle of th.e wing has a dirty-white
spot, which, with the olive-grey margins of the remiges, are the last to
change to black.

49. Ncctarinia proserpiua. Wall.

50. Cyrtostomus zeuobia, Less. Amboina. Ccram. Kc.

51. Culnrnis obscura, Bp. ISlolucoas.

52. Munia molucca, Moluccas. Tinior-laiit.

53. Osmotreron aromatic.i, Gm. Amboina. Cerani.

54. jVIyristicivora melanura, G. M. Gr. Moluccas.

55. Carpophajra pcrspicillata, Temm. Batjian. Gilolo. "NVaigion.
5G. Ptilopus rivolii, Frev.

57. \indis, Amboina. Ccram. Goram.

58. Macropygia amboinensis.

59. Clialcophaps indica.

GO. Megapodius forsteni, Temm.

Gl. wallacii. G. IL Gr.

G2. Glarcola grnllaria, Temm. Australia.

G3. Charadrius fulvus, Gm.

C4. magnirostiis. Lath. Celebes, ^rcw Guinea. Timor-laut.

05. Nuraenius iiropygialis, Gould.

GO. Strepsilas interpret, Linn.

G7. Hevodias egretta, Gmel.

G8. Butorides javanica. Uorsf.

G9. Bubulcus coromandus, Lodd.

70. Ardetta tlavicollis. Lath.

71. Nyciicorax caledonicus, Gmel. Australia to the Keeling Islands, in tlie

Indian Ocean.

72. Porpliyrio melanopteriis, Temm.

73. Erythra leucomelajnn, <S'. Miill.

74. Gall inula frontata, Wall.
75 Ortygomotra cinerea.

7G. Hypotffinidia philippensis, Linn.

77. Dendrocygna guttulata, Temm. Ceram. Celebes.

78. Tadorna radja. Less. Moluccas, New Guinea. Timor-laut.

79. Podiceps tricolor, G. li. Gr. Moluccas.

80. Pbalocracorax melanoleucus, Vieil.

81. Sterna melanauchen, Temm.

IN BUIiU.

411

II. — Description of a Neiv Species o/'Tenakis.

Tcnaris buruensis, Mihi, sp. nov.

Allied to T. aitups ; ditfers in having the fore-wings of a less oval form
and more broailly marked with brown at the apex, the hind-wings not
suffused with ochreous at the base, and the ocellus niucli larger, with a
well-defined pupil, as in T. diiam, Butl. ; on the underside it differs in
having the a])ical brown band of the fore-wings broader, and the ocelli on
the hind-wings much larger and more broadly bordered with brown ; the
ground colour of both wings is of a sordid, instead of pure white as in
catojis. Buru, 16 Nov., 1882, No. 2379.

III. Some Bunicse Words.

alive

deneve }

banana

fuat

boat

waga

bird

mnnut

butterfly

laliin

come

komahi

deep

dowd

deaf

daprcngeinoh i

dead

damata

Deity

Alia-stalla

eat

niakah

car

anting-antiTig

evening

niodaii

iire

bana

finger

ialian wangiUi

flower

sawin

lather

iiama

far

bronian

fish

ikan

foot

kadan

fruit

fuan

great

bagu

give

luikc'

good

gossa

hand

lalian

liasto

naik-naik

hold

pesse

l:ot

hinduin

huni^ry

lappa

liead

ulun

liair

ulun-fulun

leaf

karutnun

man

gaba-mana

nij,'ht

detok

rattan

uah

river

wai

road

tuhuu

stone

vatu

star

gai

slowly

maru-niara

speak

Farah

taboo

kuing

tree

kaun

tongue

maiiti

woman

fina

wind

anin

wood

■ kau

north

Giwa rete

south

,. la wo

east

Hangat kehia

west

„ aebo

sun

Hangat

moon

Fulari

PART VI.

IN TIMOR.

CHAPTER I.

SOJOURN AT FATUXABA.

Arrival at Dilly — Dreadful effects of fever — Search for a site for a house —
The town of Dilly au ethnographical studio — Fatunaba — Our residence —
The enchanting view thence — Interesting birds and plants — Difficulty
with servants — Preparations for departure into the interior — Dialects.

Sailing on the 15th of December from Amboina, we spent a
couple of days in our favourite strolling-ground of Banda, and
sighted Timor early on the 19th, anchoring at noon in the
harbour of Dilly, where we were heartily welcomed by our
old friends the Governor, Major da Franca, and his family.
We were above measure saddened to see their terribly
emaciated countenances, which proclaimed more forcibly than
words, the pestiferous nature of the climate. One of their
number — the youngest — already slept under the shade of the
Santa Cruz ; in all of them the notorious Dilly fever had
killed down the cheerful vivacity, buoyancy of spirit and
bright eye with which they had stepped ashore in the month
of May. With the utmost kindness commodious apartments
were oftered us in the Palace, but it was perfectly evident
that if I wished to accomplish any successful work in Timor,
it could not be from Dilly as a centre, constantly exposed to
the pestilence that nightly rises from the marshes surrounding
the town.

On proposing to make our residence somewhere on the hills,
the Governor suggested to me the neighbourhood of the
convent of Lahani, situated a few miles behind the town in a
picturesque valley. Though more salubrious than any part of
the town itself, the locality was still too mucli within the
fever zone to tempt us to court a renewed attack of the
malaria, whose dire cifects we had sufficiently experienced in
Timor-laut.

416 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Early on the following morning, therefore, on horses kindly
provided by the Government Secretary, Mr. Bento da Franpa,
and accompanied by Senhor Albino— one of the most genial
spirits and most influential officials in Dilly. who in his own
person was Master of the Port, Director of Public Works, and
Colonel of the native troops — we rode up the hills in quest of a
location. A damp mist hung about the town as we started,
but when we had ridden a few miles southward and ascended
some 300 feet, the sun rose and displayed before us a land-
scape whose great beauty I was utterly unprepared for, dis-
lieartened somewhat as I was by the hot sandy town and the
depressing effect of the fever-stricken condition of the
Euroj)eans. Before we had reached 500 feet above the sea, I
felt as if ill a new atmosphere, so fresh and exhilirating was
the air. Now winding round the flanks of deep glens, the
watercourses dug out by the rain (for there was neither path
nor road otherwise), now ascending slopes so steep as to make
it impossible to sit on horseback without clutching grimly
to the mane, now by the edge of sheer precipices, the path
brought us, at 1700 feet, to a coffee-garden whose shrubs
growing under deep shade, exhibited the richest display of
fragrant blossom that I have ever seen. Close by on a pro-
jecting shoulder, over which the summit of the mountain rose
1000 feet higher, was a grassy plateau of a few yards in width
commanding a view of unexamj)led beauty, and convenient to
a quiet nook, where under the shade of a grove of Kanary
trees a sparkling stream fell with a noisy purl over a rocky
projection into a shallow pooh A few feet in front of the
plateau the ground dropped suddenly into the wooded sides of
a precipitous valley, widening out as it descended, till its
enclosing spurs broke off abruptly in the green seaward plain,
beyond which the white spire of the church, the Governor's
Palace, the grey dwellings of the natives, and the guard-ship
lying m the bay, glinted through the palms. Due north full
in our face, rose abruptly out of the sea the high blue j^eaks of
Pulo Kambing, while half hidden by the arms of the valley
down which our view extended, on the left the lofty eastern
buttresses of Allor, and on the right the serrated ridges of
Wetter, touched the sky, boundaries within which the blue
sea lay calm as an inland lake. No second thoughts were

IN TIM OB. 417

necessary to decide that our dwelling should stand there, and I

carried back with me to A a sweet-scented rose plucked

from a bush growing near the spot as a hopeful token of the
goodness of the site. During our descent a largish beetle
banged itself against my hat, which I found to my delight
to be a specimen of the rare rose-chaffer (Lomaptera timGren-
sis), the only known specimen of which, if I mistake not,
taken some twenty years before by Mr. AVallace in this very
island, has remained unique ever since. On my arrival at the
Palace, breakfast was proceeding, and I placed my prize under
a glass shade in the room I occupied till my return from the
table. Alas, during my absence a servant had cleared away
the noxious Ucho, and I never afterwards saw another speci-
men !

While arrangements, in response to the kind mandate of
the Secretary to the native Eajah of Motael in whose territory
the Fatunaba hills lay, were being made for the erection of a
bamboo hut for me, we spent some very interesting days in
Dilly. The town, though vastly improved since Mr. Wallace's
visit, was still disappointing in many respects, and its Hibiscus-
lined streets looked poor and uninviting. The lack of money
to carry out efficiently the necessary municii^al arrangements
was painfully evident. No more enlightened or energetic
regime could be desired than that under the officers at the
head of affairs during our sojourn in Dilly, through whom —
and I use no mere terms of compliment — had the necessary
resources been at their disposal, Portuguese Timor might have
caught the tide of prosperity she has long waited for.

In going into the various offices and shops I was struck to
find all business conducted, not, as in the Dutch possessions,
in the lingua franca of the Archipelago, Malay, but in Portu-
guese. It has been a feature of all the countries occupied for
any length of time by the Portuguese that they have so
indelibly impressed their own speech on the rude tribes they
have conquered, that its words have remained a part of their
language centuries after their rule has passed away. On the
other hand, in the Netherlands colonies comparatively few
Dutch words have been thus kindly naturalised. In the
different quarters of the town native police posted in little
encampments are always on guard, and during the still nights

418 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

it was curious to hear from Timorese throats the Alerto sta ! at
the stroke of every hour. Besides the official staff very few
Europeans live in Dilly ; the entire trade of the island being
conducted by Arabs and (chiefly) by Chinamen.

The streets of Dilly itself offer to the traveller a fine studio
for ethnological investigation, for a curious mixture of nationa-
lities other than European rub shoulders with each other in
the town's narrow limits. At a single glance one sees that this
crowd has few elements in common with that seen at Cupang,
in the west. Tall, erect indigenes mingle with Negroes from
the Portuguese possessions of Mozambique and the coasts of
Africa, most of them here in the capacity of soldiers or con-
demned criminals ; tall, lithe East Indians from Goa and its
neighbourhood ; Chinese and 13ugis of Macassar, with Arabs
and Malays and natives from Allor, Savu, Roti, and Flores ;
besides a crowd in whose veins the degree of commiuglement
of blood of all these races would defy the acutest computation.
It was interesting to study the character of each in their
unconscious ways one among each other. The Hindu, with
a stately bearing, carried himself with a natural yet not
offensive, air of superiority ; the non-dominating, provident,
industrious, unobtrusive Mongolian wended his way, obtain-
ing rather than asserting the next place, and was looked on
Avith respect and good-neighbourly consideration ; the sturdy
Africano rollicked about, noisy (generally drunk), careless,
improvident, hated and feared by the indigenes, who frater-
nising with none of the interlopers in their land, and keeping
themselves quite to themselves, sat about in small companies
under the trees or on the shore, or moved about in their erect,
haughty, somewhat sullen and suspicious way, but not at
all shunning the town like the West-Timor people. The
Arab led his secluded life among his own race, energetic,
taking many hard rebuffs Avith few words, while the Malays,
semi-Malays and trading peoples fraternised pretty freely
with each other on the shore and over the sides of their
praus.

The shop of Ah Ting, Major of the Chinese, was my
favourite study-room while in Dilly, for there during the
whole day came and went an endless succession of these
nationalities for the purpose of barter or simply to lounge.

IX TIMOR, 419

The most marked characteristic of the Timorese is their in-
dependence and self-assurance. With the utmost sang froid
they would occupy all the chairs reserved for the use of
Europeans, without for a moment, even on the entrance of an
official of the Government, thinking of offering to give place,
although on being asked they would remove with perfect good
will, as if it liad been a simple omission on their part not to
have done so before. It is innate in him to feel that he is as
good as any one else. Towards their own rajahs, however,
they show much deference and respect, if not servility. One
regrets the difficulty that exists in portraying in written words
the life and vigour of these scenes.

It was interesting to observe the wide contrast between
the character of the ]\Iongolian and that of the Timorese.
The former with extreme patience and perfect good humour,
over and over again taking down, exhibiting, putting up,
discussing the price of the same piece of goods with the
same individual, who, regardless of time, with him the most
inexhaustible element in nature, would break off without a
word, to examine a score of different things that might
chance to catch his eye, or to join in some discussion carried
on by his friends away in the street perhaps, by-and-bye
to return to only to break off again from his bargaining,
which cannot possibly be concluded till one after another of
liis companions has in whispered consultation given his idea
of the transaction under consideration. When at last he has
made up his mind to purchase or exchange his produce for,
say, cloth of so many arm-stretches, if he is not of more than
ordinary stature, he brings the very tallest man of his ac-
quaintance to be his standard of measurement, who considers
it a duty to his friend to adopt every possible device to
expand his chest and arms. Placing the end of the web at
the tip of the longest finger of his left hand, and making a
gigantic inhalation, he runs his right arm out to the fullest
extremity of his finger-tips, invariably succeeding in getting
an inch or two more than he ought as he picks up the mark,
from which he will on no account, even though his eyes be
never taken off the spot, remove his finger till the cloth has
been cut. Should by chance he move his finger the slightest
degree, the whole measurement must be done over again, and

420 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

even after the portion he has purchased has been severed it
must be measured several times over both by himself and his
friends. The suspicious Timorese has wasted his (to him)
valueless time, and has satisfied for the moment his fancy ;
the Mongolian has a profit both on the produce he barters for,
as well as on the commodity he disposes of, and by degrees
amasses riches which the other can never attain to.

On Christmas Day, 1882, with two natives of Goa as
servants, the only men who could be persuaded to venture
among the hills with me, I removed to Fatunaba to super-
intend the erection of my bungalow, making my temporary
quarters in a native shed in the coffee-gardens.

As the royal salute of twenty-one guns boomed from the
fort below me on New Year's Day, I was reminded that I ought
to be having a holiday ; but had I left the men, even for a few
hours, not one of them would have been found on my return,
and days would have been required to hunt them up. On the
3rd, A. joined me, and by the 6th the house was completed
— though the grass roof did not look at all rain-proof — rather
to the astonishment of the Timorese, who perhaps had never
done so continuous a piece of work in their lives before.
When the work was quite finished they demanded a pig to
celebrate the ev^ent, in accordance with custom ; but as I had
neither flocks nor herds they had to forage in the neiglibour-
hood, whence one of them returned shortly with a nice fat
specimen on the point of his spear, which, despite our most
urgent protestations and threats, they cut up and divided in
their own savage way on our new and deliciously clean
verandah. By a bribe of kanipa (gin) all round we were
relieved of the pleasure of seeing them cook and devour it.

By next day, all our baggage and the implements of our
trade and profession having been dragged up the cliff-like face
01 these " Tiring-rocks," as " Fatunaba " signifies, our house
was set in order. Notwithstanding its want of elegance, and
an ominous lean that it had to one side, our pile dwelling
with its three rooms opening in a line on to the verandah,
was very comfortable and very convenient. An extra apart-
ment was fitted up to serve for a bath-room in bad weather,
when the delicious natural shower-bath in the stream below
our door couldn't be used.

IN TIMOR. 421

We were now ready for work ; but before beginning in
earnest, we decided to take one undisturbed day of rest. It
was a delightful holiday of inactivity. We were both
enchanted with the outlook from our verandah, whence a
single turn of the eyes commanded a wide and varied scene.
It would be as useless to attempt as impossible to describe
the beauty and our intense enjoyment, of the hourly effects
from dawn to twilight, the myriad combinations of the sun-
light on the near hills, on the surface of the sea, and on the
island peaks of Allor, Kambing, Wetter, whose ridges and
crests rising at varying distances caught the sunlight at
every angle and in every degree of intensity. We felt that
it was well worth not a few privations to live day after day in
the face of a scene of such surpassing loveliness.

My Goa men were both able to shoot, but as neither of them
could skin at all well, my ornithological collections got on
very slowly, for I myself gave the most of my time to the
gathering of plants, which had not been at all carefully collected
in Timor, while of the ornithology of the island, JMr. Wallace
had already given us the chief features. Though no new
birds were shot, those obtained were of great interest to us.
especially the kakuak {Philemon timorensis), whose curious
bawling cry in the gum-trees was invariably the first to
awaken the silence of the dawn and the last to break off at
night, and which had the exact habits of its relative which I
discovered at Larat (P. Umorlaoensis). As there, so here also,
a species of Oriole, mimicking it in colour and in form so
closely as to be almost indistinguishable when both birds are
in the hand, was constantly seen feeding in the same tree with
it. That in each of these different islands of the Austro-
Malayan region an Oriole should seek protection under the
segis of the habits and strength of this one genus of birds
and of no other equally powerful or fleet group, and that in
the islands of the neighbouring region, where true Orioles
abound, it has not been found to occur, is one of the most
curious and remarkable facts in the whole of Natural History.
Neo}mttacus euteles, a gorgeous little green-and-scarlet parrot,
aud the fine white cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea) — the males
with black, and the females with red eyes — abounded round
our dwelling, and gave us daily great pleasure by their

422 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

liveliness and by the snowiness of their plumage. One very
bold visitor we could not bring ourselves to destroy even to
add to our collection, the lovely scarlet Mi/zomela vulnerata,
which, when we were quiet, often hopped down even on the
rail of our verandah from its favourite perch on the top of
a gum-tree close by. A Musswnda frondosa bush, and the tall
grass-stems on the other side of the path from our hut were
constantly resorted to by several species of Finch, the pigmy
Amadina insularis, the Munia ijollida, and the Estrelda
flavidiventris.

My own hunting grounds were the slopes above our hut,
where the vegetation was very different from that which I had
hitherto been accustomed to in the richly-clad western islands
or in the humid Moluccas. I can scarcely say that we had
any true forest, for the trees rarely entwined their crow ns over-
head, and the ground was covered with sparse grass sufficient
to give it a park -like look. The precipitous ravines afforded
the only really dense vegetation that existed where out I laid
the foundation of a promising herbarium. My means of dry-
ing the specimens, however, were very limited, as I could not
manage at that time to requisition more labour to erect a
drying-house ; and unless in these regions plants are dried
by fire heat, they become mouldy in a very short time even
with the most careful attention, and are then a terrible heart-
break to the collector. I was specially gratified in gathering
on the bare hot clayey face of the mountain a lovely little
sun-dew (Drosera lunata) growing luxuriantly in extensive
patches. Accustomed to gather its kin at home in boggy
heaths, I was surprised to find it flourishing in so dry an
exposure ; but on digging it up I found it lield a store of
moisture against hard times in the tuberous roots with which
it was provided. This was a characteristic of not a few of the
herbaceous jilants growing on these arid slojjes. Another
plant, also of a home-family, one of the Vacciniacese aiforded
us a rare pleasure, like a breath from home every time we
ascended to 2000 feet. This shrub, of an undescribed species
I am delighted to find, grew in the ravines in the form of a
tall bush, and has an open tross of rich scarlet waxy bells. Its
low habitat in so hot a region is somewhat surprising ; but
the amount of " grey beard " lichen with which, like the rest

IN TIMOR. 423

of the vegetation about it, it was loaded, told how cool and
moist an atmosphere it was living in.

Among the tall grass fields one of the commonest orchids
was the white sweet-scented Uabenaria susannie, remarkable
for the great length of its nectaries. Diurnal lepidoptera were
noticeably very few at Fatunaba ; but at night more moths
(belonging only to a few species) than at any other station
where I had lived, crowded to my lamp. Among them the
most abundant were two moderate-sized Nocture, a new species
of Opliiocles and Remigia virhia, and a largish species of
Humming-bird moth {Protoparce orientalis). I made it a
point daily to watch the fertilisation of these Habenarias.
They were invariably cross-fertilised during the night by a
moth which, as it always left a few of its hairs on the stigma,
I feel certain is the same as one and perhaps both of the
Noctuse just mentioned, but the tongue of both species is
far too short ever to reach more than half-way down towards
the minute drop of sweetness concealed at the very tip
of the nectary. The large pollinia in many cases had been
carried only as far as one of the petals or to a neighbouring
leaf, as if the moth, finding the burden too great for it, had
rested there, and succeeded in freeing itself of them.

Collecting was carried on till the end of February witli all
the vigour possible, my herbarium esjDCcially rapidly increasing
in size ; but I had fully expected to have been by then far in
the interior. The weather, however, had been very disastrous
for us, and we had had much difficulty with our servants. It
was a weary tramp up to Fatunaba from Dilly, and as all our
provisions had to be carried by our own men, they very soon
tired of the exertion that this entailed, and of living so far
from the hcuiipa stores of the town. One of the Goa men
was an inveterate toper, and had very soon to be discharged.
His place was taken by a younger brother, who proved a good
and willing servant ; but he could not stand the cold nights of
the mountains, so when he left in ill-health, followed soon
after by his brother dismissed for larceny, their place was
filled by an AUor youth, who knew a little Malay. Goma
was a servant faithful as a dog, strong and willing to work,
but having not the slightest idea of European ways, which he
had never seen, he afforded us much amusement, if not much

424 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

profit, by his willing attempts to serve us. As he was only-
delaying in Dilly, for a favourable wind to go home by, we
soon lost him, and for a whole fortnight— days of privation
anything but slight — we had to rely on ourselves for the
performance of all our domestic duties, till our kind helper,
Senhor Albino, sent us a Timorese, the son of a chief in one of
tlie kingdoms of the interior, who had been for some time a
prisoner in Dilly, but whose freedom was restored to him on
the sole condition of his serving us faithfully as long as we
wanted him.

The results of the haste with which our thatched roof was
finished off soon became evident enough. At times not a single
spot in the hut — except where our bed, roofed over with a
waterproof sheet, stood — was dry. Everything of value, there-
fore, that we possessed, food, books, plants, gunpowder, clothes,
had to be stored on or under this piece of furniture, so that we
derived little rest or comfort from it. The repeated gales bent
the hut itself so far that it would have been carried down the
valley but for a couple of gum-trees which I had to fell and
prop it up with. Our food supply was wretchedly poor and
very scanty, often necessitating a purchasing expedition to
Dilly to replenish our stores — visits which in our solitary life
were red-letter days from the few hours of Euiopaan inter-
course with our kind friends at the palace which they brought
us, for which we invariably paid dearly, however, in fever
attacks — in A.'s case of a very violent kind — a few days after
our return, Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, we had no
lack of enjoyment of a most serene description in this rough
and ricketty abode — if in nothing else, certainly in the inex-
pressibly delightful scene ever before us under the morning
and evening sun, and in the bright moonlight nights.

With the natives we had a good deal of intercourse, as they
came often past our hut on their way to Dilly wth their
produce — chiefly Indian corn and European potatoes. Their
character did not gain favourably on us. If their demands for
hanifa were not complied with, they took themselves off in a
very offensive and threatening way, muttering curses as they
went. If not watched closely, they were apt to think that
various useful or attractive objects of ours were belongings of
theirs. Among them some had frizzy, some had straight hair.

IN TIMOR 425

some tall, others again short and stumpy — while in other
characteristics they varied so much that it is impossible to
believe them to belong to a pure race.

The weather by the middle of March having showed signs of
clearing, the Governor with great kindness gave orders for an
escort to be ready to accompany me into the interior as soon as
travelling could be considered safe.

March 29th. — To-morrow, at last, I shall be able to start, my
transport ponies having arrived this evening. To my dismay,
however, only half as many as are necessary for my baggage.
On inquiring of the Hindu officer in charge, I find that it
would require a week to collect the extra number I wish.
The only thing now possible is taking only a portion of the
botanical drying-paper which is bulky and heavy, to advance
at once to Bibipupu and send back for the rest. The saddle
for the pony I am to ride has been forgotten also. The
escort consists of the Hindu officer, who is to act as my guide,
interpreter and adviser, and is charged with full authority
over the rajahs in whose kingdoms I may stay, a Hindu
corporal, and an official of the Eajah of Motael's kingdom
through which we first pass, who is to be relieved by a like
officer from each kingdom in which I may sojourn. He
must attend from his own Rajah's headquarters to the head-
quarters of the next Rajah, and is responsible for every item,
not of my baggage only, but of my person also, till relieved by
his fellow in the neighbouring kingdom. My own authority
is a friendly and most plenary document addressed to all the
Rajahs that I may meet in the interior.

The whole of East Timor is apportioned out under certain
chiefs called Leoreis, each of whom is independent and abso-
lute in his own kingdom. At present there are forty-seven of
these ; but many of them possess far greater iuflueneo than,
and exercise a sort of vassalage over, the others. Each lieno,
or kingdom, is divided into districts each of which is called a
Suhu, ruled over by a Data, who receives his orders from
the Leorei by a special officer appointed for that purpose.
The Dato has under him two other officials, a Caho and a
Tenente * who assist him in the regulation of the Suku.

Nearly every kingdom has its own dialect. Crawford says
* These terms are probably adopted from the Portuguese.

426 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

that in Timor there are forty different languages. I am not
in a position to say whether they are dialects or languages ;
but I observed that in some districts the people did not
understand the speech of their neighbours.

I feel quite anxious at leaving A. here alone. Female
servants are impossible to be found in Dilly; but the old
woman who looks after the coffee-gardens near us, has agreed
to sleep in the hut within her call, and to assist her in her
few domestic duties. She herself will not hear of any one
else, and scouts the idea of danger from the natives, and is
quite brave over it. Our friends at the palace desire her to
make her home with them, but the fever risks of Dilly are too
great. I do not like the neighbours over much, and am far
from comfortable in the. idea of leaving her so unprotected.

7.V TIMOR. 427

CHAPTER II.

ON THE ROAD TO BIBICU^U.

Start for the interior — Vegetation on the way— Roads — Camp on Erlura —
Mt. Tehula — Kelehoko and its tiora— Pass a nio;lit under the eaves of a
native dwelling^ — Huts in trees — Bed of the River Komai — Pass a niglit
on Ligidoik Mountain — Character of country — Valley of the VVaimatang
Kaimauk — Singular scene — Unburied relatives — Burial rites — Grave-
sticks — Rites attending a king's death — Swangics — Lose our way —
Flora on Turskain mountain — Rajah of Turskain's — Botanical excur-
sions— The rites of the sacred Lull and the choosing of warriors — The
Rajah.

After many hours spent in arranging the burdens of the
different ponies and men, I despatched the cavalcade at eleven
o'clock (March 30th). The officer expressed the greatest asto-
nishment at all absence of timidity on A.'s part on being
left alone ; but, on being reminded that she was an " English
Senhora," he appeared satisfied that the fact was sufficient to
explain the phenomenon. He encouraged her with assurances
that there was nothing to fear for my safety, swearing to her on
the cross-hilt of his sword that if anything befell me it would
be over his body, and solemnly charged also the little old
woman who was to be her factotum, that if she failed in her duty
she might expect, on my return, all the calamities that her
superstition could picture to her. Having constructed for
myself a saddle and stirrups out of my Ulster coat and a
rope looped at both ends, and given A. a last assuring word,
I followed the cavalcade, ascending the well-known path
above our hut to 2500 feet, where, turning eastward along
the summit of the ridge, we travelled parallel to the coast, on
our way, in the first instance, to the Kajah of Turskain's.

The vegetation was almost exclusively Melastomacese, with
acacias, tamarinds, and gum-trees, while in the narrowest and
most inaccessible gorges tall graceful tree-ferns abounded
among thick shrubbery, whose components I could not

428 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

identify, and in many places broad areas of Setaria and Pas-
palum grass took the place of all other vegetation.

No such thing as a road exists anywhere in Timor. All
the paths follow the knife ridges of the hills, or skirt along
the face of precipitous slopes, invariably in deep ditch-like
trenches, out of which a stumble would fatally land either
horse or man hundreds of feet below. The Timor horses are
wonderfully sure-footed, and seem quite accustomed to these
difficult ways.

Having started late in the forenoon, it was found impossible
to reach, before sunset, the hut where we had intended to
camp. As we had no food with us for the men, we were com-
pelled to practise the highwayman's art on the numerous
natives loaded with maize, whom we met going towards
Dilly. From each of them, tlie rajah's officer — an official of
their own king — demanded a few heads, which after some
display of authority, were generally given up. After several
acts of this kind, I was surprised to see that those meeting
us even an hour later, on catching sight of us a long distance
off, darted aside down the first declivity out of our way, and,
laden though they were, generally managed to escape. The
intelligence of our coming had been conveyed to them from
the nearest hill-top the first mulcted people had reached.
It is astonishing with what ease and accuracy the Timorese
can convey intelligence from one mountain crest to another.
Nearly every man carries in his wallet (which he never
travels without) a short wooden pipe, by whose curious notes
he can convey signal sounds to a long distance ; but by the
unaided voice they are able, in a series of what seem only
demoniacal howls, to hold long dialogues from peak to peak
across wide valleys. It was in this way doubtless that our
men were nearly done out of their supper, which according to
the laws of their kingdom the officer was within his right in
demanding.

Reaching about five o'clock a little plateau, known as
Erlura, at 3500 feet above the sea, where we found a well and
several tall gum-trees with their stems hollowed out by fire,
we camped for the night. After seeing the baggage stowed
inside the trees, I occupied the time till dark in assiduously
collecting the herbaceous plants which dotted the ground. The

IN TIMOR.

429

district being notorious for robbers, we picketed the horses
at dark within a quadrangle of fires — not an unnecessary pre-
caution ; for in the middle of the night we heard very sus-
picious low whistle-calls several times repeated, which gave

SIGXALLIN'G PIPE.

vigour to tlie " Alerto ! " of our guard. The Timorese arc very
clever horse-stealers, I understand, and, by abducting them
off from tlie veiy side of their owners, the astutor thieves
among them have obtained the re})utation of being Swangies,
who have the power of making their bodies invisible.
29

430 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Next morning at sunrise, after I had taken a round of
bearings, Ave started in a south-easterly direction, continually
climbing as on the previous day, along hog's-back ridges and
round precipitous gorges. On the bare red clay of Mount
Tehula, at 4200 feet, I gathered, with great delight, a new
species of Epacridaceas a heath-like plant, which formed inter-
rupted shrubberies all over its summit. From Tehula by a
shallow saddle, we reached Kelehoko, 4600 feet, where un-
horsing to rest for an hour, I made a most interesting collec-
tion of plants, many of them belonging to European families
and genera, violets (F. ixitrinii), geraniums, bright azure
CamjKmuIacew on the bare red soil, oxalis, and a new species
of Orchids, Diuris fryana of Kidley ; and near it, among the
grass, a new bright species of the ScrophnJariacepe, belonging
to the genus Buchnera. Hence winding down the valley of
the Komai, on foot, as the path was very steep and unsafe, we
reached about half-way the house-cluster of a native known
to my guide, who had been over all this country during
various revolts.

As it was beginning to rain, we decided to camp here for
the night, and asked to occupy a part of the man's house.
To this he replied that his dwellijig was at our disposal, but
for our own sakes he had rather we did not go inside, as a
child of his had been buried only the day before, and he was
ashamed of the smell left by the dead body; but we might, if
we liked, occupy the platform below the eaves. We accord-
ingly spent the night in this rather cramped situation, com-
pletely protected from rain, and in the morning discovered
that the whole story of the child's death w as a myth ; but I
have no doubt that we were more comfortable outside, if the
wreaths of smoke that oozed through the wicker-work sides of
the house gave us any idea of the purity of the atmosphere
within.

The Timorese, differing from the peoples of the Indo-
IMalayan region or of the Tenimber Islands, do not live in
villages, but more like the Buruese, in a cluster of family
residences, or in isolated habitations often far distant from
any other dwelling. This Fatete homestead, a single family
abode of one or two houses, was placed in the centre of an
enclosure strongly fenced in by high palings made of longi-

IX TIMOR. 431

tudinal planks and logs of trees intertwined with growino-
bamboos and thorny shrubs. The gateway was closed by a
door of a broad solid slab of wood, swung on its lintels by the
two pivots left projecting at the upper and lower corners,
and secured by a bar of a slender tree. Just inside the gate
stood a little shed, occupied every night by a sentinel on
guard, and where I observed a '•' dummy " head on the top of
a pole as a warning to thieves and robbers of the reception
that awaited them. Within the enclosure were stockaded
wallowing-pools for the owner's buffaloes, and stalls for his
goats and ponies in times of alarm, while the ubiquitous pig,
his most treasured possession, had its usual quarters beneath
the, dwelling. The houses Avere of bamboo, the walls — in
which there were no windows — being of several layers of
wicker-work matting, raised several feet off the ground on
strong pillars. The floor projected some feet beyond the walls
all round, forming the platform under the eaves, on which we
camped. Their dwellings are not divided into apartments,
but there are stall-like divisions, which can be closed by
curtains, and are used for sleeping in. A spot is alwavs railed
off for the sacred {luU) spear, knife and gun, before which
the head of the house makes a propitiatory offering to speed
his particular undertakings. Outside the enclosure, in the
tops of the taller of the gum-trees, were curious miniature
huts, which I at first thought, from the absence of any
ladder, might be pigeon-houses ; but they turned out to be
their granaries — reached by climbing the trees — and the
depositories of the more valuable portion of their house-
hold effects, such as plates, bowls of European make, and
cloths. They are invariably placed in high trees whose
trunk was divided into four divaricating arms, on which
two diagonal planks can be fixed to support a firm floor.
They are said to be little subject to the depredations of
rats ; but they seemed most tempting objects to every prowl-
ing thief. It may be, however, that they are protected by the
sanctity of the taboo — or, in their own language, are luJi.

Next day, descending by the usual ditch-like paths and
zig-zagging down land-slipped gorges we reached, at 3000
feet above the sea, the bed of the river Komai, a wide channel
several hundred yards in breadth, paved with soft blue-black

432 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

pebbles and sand, through which instead of one hxrge river
numerous small independent streamlets, some of them pure
and sparkling, but most of them of a blue inky hue, were
meandering their course, A few of these slaty stones were
of red or yellowish colour ; I myself observed no granite,
but my boy brought me a porphyritic nodule. Our way lay
down the river-bed, the only good road we had yet traversed,
between banks, from 100 to 150 feet in height of jDerfectly
horizontal stratified pebbles, laid down in the bed of some
former lake or estuary through which the river, by the slow
elevation of the land is now cutting its way. Tall casuarinas,
loaded with staghorn-ferns. grew at the bases of these pebbly
cliffs and dotted the dry portions of the river-bed.

When we had readied a point 2000 feet above the sea, we
left the river, turning to the right up the long steep slope of
the Ligidoik Mountain, on whose top at 3400 feet we unhorsed
to lunch close to the barricaded dwelling of a sub-chief of the
Motael kingdom in which we still were. Notwithstanding
the threats of the official of their own kingdom in attendance
on me, we could not succeed in purchasing anything of an
eatable kind except some Indian corn for the men, and had to
be content with the meagre provisions I had myself brought.
Just as we were about to resume our march rain commenced to
fall in torrents, compelling us to demand shelter, which was
ungraciously conceded to us, as on the previous night below
the eaves of a most wretched hovel.

From our elevated position the whole country within the
sweep of the eye was of a most singular conformation, being
entirely composed of knife-edges, peaks, and precipitous slopes
of deep valleys. It surprised me to observe that it was the
most inaccessible peaks and isolated crags that were crowned
by dwellings, hidden from sight generally among groves of
trees. It was easy to see that I was travelling in a lawless
land where every man's hand was against his neighbour, and
where therefore every man was constantly and restlessly on tbe
outlook.

On the following morning (April 2), after I had taken a
series of bearings to all the prominent peaks, we continued
our journey south-eastward, descending 450 feet to the Vekele
stream, only to wend our way up again 550 feet to the crest of

IN TIM on. 4:J3

Lebetiitu, over a bleak, stony, almost grassless country. No
sooner had we reached the crest than we began to descend
once more — but less abruptly — into the wide valley of the
Wai-Matang-Kaimauk. The change to a new set of muscles
was at first very agreeable, but ere long I found myself wish-
in<>- that we were going up, the very reverse of what I was
praying for just before we came over the ridge above us.
There was no improvement in the road, which as hitherto
wound along in an interminable drain, barely wide enough
for single file, worn in some places so deep and narrow
as to admit only with difficulty our baggage-laden ponies,
which, startled by the grating of their burdens on the sides of
the defile, were constantly bolting — crashing along headlong,
till their panniers were left behind, or themselves jammed
fast utterly blocking the way, as the towering mass of the
mountain on the one hand, and the precipitous cliffs on the
other, or precipitous cliffs on both hands, prevented all passage
forwards or backwards. It seems to me impossible for a proper
road ever to be made across thef island, for, from the moun-
tainous character of the country and the unstable nature of
the soil, the best constructed way must inevitably disappear
each rainy season. "The land of Timor is always falling," is
the natives' own account of the country.

liooking down into this valh^y, the scenery was of a most
singular and striking description. The river was itself the
most prominent feature, like a livid blue-black band drawn
athwart the landscape, clouding rather than enlivening it ;
on the further side the mountains, sculptured into peaks and
crags, rose so precipitously as to seem insurmountable, while
their slopes wore disfigured by perpendicular livid blue escarp-
ments thrown down by landslips into the valley ; on our own
side of the river several giant, wildly picturesque trihedral
pillars of rock, all of them of nearly equal height, reared their
crags above the level of the mountain slope for some 500 feet.
Between two of these great pillars the homestead of the Dato
of the Suku of Sauo, was most romantically and enticingly
situated, and as it was already late in tho afternoon, I decided
to claim his hospitality for the night.

Before reaching his homestead 1 noted at a scented lemon
shrub the first butterfly — a PajyiUo —I had seen since leaving

434

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Fatuiiaba. Indeed, life of all kinds had been exceedingly
conspicious by its absence ; save a scarlet T riclioglossiis or a
cockatoo flying across our path, and a few crows at Erlura, I
had seen no birds, and the vegetation since crossing the
Ligidoik river had been very poor indeed. A few casuarinas,
acacias, gimi-trees, and some rougli-leaved Compositie being

the only vegetable forms. The
slopes on the other side looked
somewhat more tree-dotted, how-
ever, but the bare red ground
displayed itself over a large part
of its area. A few hundred yards
from the homestead gate we
passed a cranary-looking hut in
the to J) of a liigh tree with a
number of bundles dangling from
its floor. On inquiring what they
were, I was surprised to be told
that they v.ere dead bodies —
folded at the thighs, and wrapped
in mats — relatives of the Dato
waiting to be buried !

Entering through a high-barred
gateway, we found the homestead
to consist of eight or ten well-
built houses of a somewhat dif-
ferent style of architecture from
that prevalent near the coast.
(Surrounded by a high stone wall
surmounted by a cactus hedge,
and built on a rocky buttress jut-
ting out over a precipitous gorge,
it was unapproachable except on
the one side by which we entered. AVhen we had settled in the
empty guarda to which we were at once conducted by tlie Dato
himself, tiie first civility and token of friendship that passed
between the chief and my Hindu guide, as representing me,
was the exchange of siri, pinaiig, and chalk. Each prepared
his quantum, and stuffed it into his mouth, but before adding
to it the chalk, of which each had taken the proper quantity

TKEE-ULTS WITH DEAD BODIES SUS'
I'ENDED BELOW.

IN TIMOR. 435

into the hollow of his hand, " Maman ? " (may I eat ? ), said
my guide, with an obeisance, following the proper etiquette,
to which the Dato replied, " Maman " (eat). This little
ceremony had an instant effect in loosening the tongues of our
hosts, who kept up an unbroken dialogue till long after dark.

Just at sunset we were surprised by the intrusion of a man,
who beat a long and vigorous tatoo on a drum suspended in the
centre of the building, to give, as was explained to us, informa-
tion to the neighbourhood that the remains of the father and
of some other relatives of the Dato — an old white-haired man
— which had been dangling some thirty years in the tree-top
which we had just passed, were at last to be buried, and that
every night till the feast was ready the drum would be beat at
sunset. I had observed an unwonted activity of rice and
Indian-corn stamping, and remarked the wealth of pigs and
goats that we had to make our way through as we entered, all
now explained as preparations against the day of burial.

When a member of a family dies, at least three duties are
imperative on the surviving relatives before the body can be
buried. First, every blood relative without exception is bound
to give, either in person or by proxy, a gift of greater or less
magnitude to the deceased. On arriving where the dead body
is, each donor places his gifts on or near the corpse, and
within its hearing fires off as many shots of his gun as he can
afford, the greater the number the greater is his respect, it is
supposed, for the departed. The other essentials are a death
and-burial feast. If the defunct have been a lowly person
with few relatives, a small feast will suffice to satisfy the
demands of custom. If, however, he have been of some rank,
with many relatives and a wide acquaintance, these must be on
a scale commensurate with his position ; and so serious are the
demands that custom requires, that the death feast alone often
reduces the family to abject poverty, necessitating the delay
of the funeral for months, years, or even a whole century, till
such time, in fact, as the relatives and descendants are able to
provide the necessary costly feast. The corpse, whicli has
been lying where it died during these first tedious cere-
monies, is then folded at tlie hips, bundled up in a mat and
suspended by a cord below the floor of the curious dovecot-
like huts in the trees which I have spjken of, to wait inter-

436 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

ment; or in some districts it is placed on a bier in a little
hut prepared for it near the dwellinf;: of the nearest relative.
If a son die before his father's remains have been committed
to the ground, the primary and imperative duty of burial de-
volves on his heir with his other obliiiations. The knowledge
of " who is who " among the various dangling remnants of
humanity is handed down from each inheritor to each suc-
ceeding heir of the obligation ; when at last sufficient buffaloes,
pigs, goats, Indian corn, rice, and kanipa for a feast in accord-
ance with the rank of the deceased have been amassed, the
body, in such condition as it happens to be, is laid, attired and
ornamented in its best garments and finery, in a short wooden
coffin dug out of a block of wood, along with the various gifts
which the relatives had perhaps decades before bestowed on
it, and the whole, wrapped in a " patola," or ornamented cere-
cloth, is committed to the grave amid the firing of guns and
the wailing of women.

From the time the funeral company arrives, which is
generally many days before that actually appointed for the
interment, buffaloes and horses, sheep and pigs are ruthlessly
butchered to satisfy the insatiable appetites of these savages,
who devour it half-cooked, and whose drink throughout the
whole period of the ceremonies is confined to the strongest
and coarsest arrack. Under the influence of this stimulant
the women starting up, and falling into a ring, each beating
a round drum, commence to dance, going round and round in
a circle, at first slowly, then by degrees faster and faster, till
they become thoroughly excited. Shouting and bawling out
unintelligible words or sentences, they constantly increase the
pace of their prance and the din of their voices, till the men
at last becoming excited also, dress themselves in their war
feathers and accoutrements, and brandishing their swords, join
in the drunken and demoniacal scene, which continues to
increase in fury till the wearied-out frames of the performers
sink through utter exhaustion, which it often requires, so mad
is their frenzy, a whole circuit of the sun to produce. In such
a scene the Timorese appear as pure savages.

When these orgies at last come to a close, the skulls and
cheekbones of the slain herds are strewn over the ground
among the stones heaped upon it at the time of burial ; or in

IN TIMOR.

437

the case of persons of rank or importance the jaw-bones and
horns are inserted into holes one above the other in a tall
pole, whose number indicates the eminence of him who sleeps
below. Such a memento stood within this Sauo homestead
enclosure to mark the resting-place of the Date's grandfather.
AVhen a king dies the chief officers of the kingdom are
summoned to pronounce that he is really dead. As soon as

GKAVE STICK IN THE lIO.MEriTEAU 07 SAUO.

this declaration has been made the whole family, ^\■ho have
till then preserved complete silence, break out into cries and
lamentations. For seven days no work is permitted to be
done within the limits of the kingdom, no betel or siri may be
used, and the people must cut their hair in token of mourning.
For weeks and even months the relatives of the defunct ruler
continue to arrive, and as each one must view the corpse as it

438 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

died, it has become by then a mass of putrefaction emitting a
pestilential odour, which to the Timorese gives no apparent
discomfort. As during this period whoever arrives must be
feasted, every buffalo, horse and pig that the family possess
have often to be slaughtered, reducing them to absolute
poverty. On the conclusion of these death ceremonies the
family leave the house, but the body remains there either on a
bier or dej)osited in a large coffin and guarded by the officials
of the kingdom, till the relatives can afford to provide the
burial feast. Till such time the king is supposed to be asleep
and no successor with reigning powers can be appointed.

Like the Australians, the Timorese cannot understand why
any one should ever die unless he be killed ; so they attribute
both sickness and natural death to the influence of some
malevolent existence, which they believe eats uj) the spirit of
the blighted person after death. As soon, therefore, as the sick
man has died, the Sicangi (or person in whom the evil spirit
had taken up its residence and who is considered to be in
collusion with it), whom their fanaticism easily discovers, used
with his whole family to be seized (till it was made a capital
crime by the Portuguese so to do), bound hand and foot, and
either impaled or buried alive, and their goods confiscated
for the benefit of the accusers and the lord of the soil.

Their food seems to consist chiefly of indian-corn roasted
ever the fire by each individual when he feels hungry, and
eaten 2:rain bv o:rain as it becomes ready. On hig-h occasions,
when a pig or a goat is killed, the indian-corn mixed with
rice and Katjang (Phaseolus) beans, is stewed along with the
flesh, and the whole mess flavoured with the most pungent
capsicums. Sweet potatoes (and in some elevated districts
European potatoes), Cucurbitaceous fruits and various herbs
form also a large part of their diet. In times of scarcity a species
of legume, called by them JciUu (Dolichos Lablab), common
over the whole island, is also used as food, but unless it is
well cooked it is, if not poisonous, very deleterious. They
cultivate few fruits except the banana ; but the jack-fruit
seems in some places abundant and is highly prized, espe-
cially its seeds, which when boiled, taste not unlike potatoes
and much resemble those of the seeding variety of the bread-
fruit tree (Artocarpus incisa). The true bread-fruit I did not

IN TIMOR. 439

myself observe, though it is said to grow in Timor in abun-
dance.

-4p'?7 3. — From behind our rest-house, I got a good view of
the river below us, where its tributary, the Tahaolat, descending
along steep gradient, and looking from my elevated station like
a narrow line of black fluid winding through the centre of its
wide, flat and stony channel, dashes down a noisy cataract into
but does not commingle for a long way after its union with
the paler water of the Wai Matang-Kaimauk, whose bed,
judging from the dwarfed appearance of the tall casuarinas
growing against the high shingle banks in tiie fork of their
confluence, must be quite fifty feet lower. So broad is the
channel of this river that even the conjoint flood — on the way
to the sea at Mantutu — meanders like a narrow ribband
through it. The grandeur of these streams, if ever their vast
beds are filled from bank to bank with a roaring torrent, must
be left to the imagination. Guided by the Dato, down the
steep and broken slopes to the river margin, 2000 feet above
the sea, I had a full view of the giant trihedral blocks down
to their bases in a side tributary of the Wai IMatang-
Kaimauk, and estimated them at not less than lOOO feet in
height. The river itself, which looked so small from above,
was found to be wide, deep, and rapid, demanding our utmost
caution in fording on account of the number of large boulders
which were being constantly rolled down by it. I am told that
in the rainy season, travellers have often to camp on the bank
for weeks waiting for an opportunity to cross in safety ; and
that many a time horses and men, who in their impatience
attempt to force their way, are carried down and crushed by
the rolling blocks.

From the river it was a long weary climb of 1500 feet to the
summit of the opposite ridge, over a rough shingly ground, from
which the soil has been nearly all washed a>vay, so that to
raise his little crop of maize the native here has had to build
up terraces of low walls in the more sheltered nooks to hold
the precious hoard of earth he has laboriously collected behind
them. On reaching the summit we were overtaken by a
dense drizzling mist, in which, amid the innumerable ravinelets
of the descent, each of which looked like the usual ditch-like
track of a road, we lost our way. Stumbling up against a

440 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

native of the district whom luckily we caught unawares before
he could make off, we persuaded him with the offer of a
gaudy kerchief to guide us to the Eajah of Turskain's. In his
rear we slid and stumbled down on the slippery clay for 1000
feet to the JMaukuda, a noisy sparkling stream in a narrow
ravine which finds its way to the south coast (showing that we
had crossed the water-shed of the country), up which we
clambered over boulders and through deep pools for nearly an
hour. The sides of the ravine, however, were densely covered
with vegetation, and bright with hedychium, balsams, and the
French marigold {Tagetes patula) so common in our gardens
at home, but which was here growing wild far from coast
influence or the highways of the world, and was seen by me
nowhere else along my route. It is a widespread plant,
hailing from Mexico originally, but also found in Africa; but
how did it reach the interior of Timor ?

Turning to the right out of the stream our horses had to be
urged up one of the steepest inclines we had yet encountered,
in trenches as deep as their own height, and along more pre-
cipitous and dangerous ravines than those we had passed. In
compensation for these difficulties the scenery was charmingly
picturesque, in the glimpses we got of it through the rolling
mist-clouds, and above all, we had entered a more fertile
grass-clad region though without much arboreal vegetation
beyond acacias and casuarinas. Every foot of the way was
dotted with bright herbs in full flower, witli violets, white-
flowered geraniums like our Herb-Eobert in habit, Galium
very like our common Bedstraw, pink L^lAatse resembling the
Penny-royal of our English roadsides, Oxalis, and Polygonum,
while among the grass and in rocky nooks grew small terres-
trial orchids and the most lovely silver and other graceful
ferns ; and where the soil was broken by land-slips, and in the
ravines, flowering shrubs abounded, so that I mourned that I
had not arms big enough to embrace specimens of all I might
have gathered. Though we had been climbing up and clam-
bering down — first down 500 feet then up 1700, down 1000
only to rise again the same number of feet — since early
morning till past five o'clock in the evening, I quite forgot the
steepness of this last ascent (leading up to our destination the
residence of the Eajah of Turskain), and my weariness of limb

IN TIMOR. 441

in the happiness of gathering these familiar forms of flowers, as
well as the event of the day to which I had been looking for-
ward, the seeing of the state and bearing of a native potentate.

At last at an elevation of 4500 feet we fonnd in a pretty
circular grassy plateau in the hollow of the mountain tops the
royal enclosure. The house of the Leorei, a small edifice
standing alone, had little to distinguish it from the commonest
Timorese dwelliug except perhaps the presence of an armed
guard housed near it in a little shed, near which stood the
" guarda," erected for the accommodation of high personages
passing through the kingdom, and therefore assigned to us.
This was a miserable edifice raised on poles but not floored except
where a rough bamboo platform was erected for baggage and
another for sleeping on. It could not Jiave been less comfort-
able or much more filthy; dogs and pigs had evidently made
it their lair, and during our stay they strayed through it at
all hours of the day and night while the rain penetrated the
roof everywhere, and rushed through below the house as a
considerable stream.

Soon after our arrival I sent my corporal to inform the
Eajah of my presence in his " guarda," " on the service of the
Government," and to request him to como to me and hear
the reason of my visit to his kingdom. He sent back his
salutation, with the reply that as it was late he would visit me
on the morrow and arrange for the necessary supplies of our
table and for horses for our further progress ; meantime, he
begged to send us six eggs and two wax tapers, hoping we
should make an endeavour to do with these till the morning,
and to say that he had ordered a Cabo of the Keno to take over
at once and be responsible for the safety of our baggage that
the Rajah of Motael's men had brought. This official having
received over not only every article of our baggage down to
the most insignificant stra]) but ourselves also, placed a guard
to attend on us and protect it. It was very amusing to
listen to the acceptance on the one side and discharge of
obligation on the other — three bundles of i)aper, two straps,
two teapots, three guns, four boxes, two soldiers of Dilly, one
Englishman, who has two eyes, a nose, hair on his face, two
arms, all sr.fe and complete ! Had I come by any accident, or
lost any prominent feature of my face, or if any of my baggage

442 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

had disappeared, the kingdom would have been bound to
rephice it in kind, or in value ! In this way I never had any
anxiety about the safety of my property.

The six eggs (the two tapers included) provided for our
bodily sustenance by the luijah, being anything but sufficient
for three men who had travelled through sun and rain for
eleven hours, I sent a sharp message that something more
substantial must be forthcoming, and at once. From a series of
terrible bowlings that reached our ears from the royal guard-
room, it was evident that my message had been passed on to
some unfortunate menial accompanied by an application to
quicken his search, which resulted in a fowl and some other
comestibles finally being brought.

On the Aih April I was roused early by a vigorous tatoo
from the Rajah's guard-house. The katjeru, or royal drummer,
is a hereditary official of high and coveted rank in the
kingdom, for they hold that when ]\raromak made Timor he
gave the people a standard-bearer to lead them to war, and a
katjeru to walk beside him — " like man and wife."

As the Rajah, notwithstanding the noisy tatoo at his door,
seemed to be a very late riser, I set out for the crest of the hill
above our camp to take a round of observations. To reach the
most convenient place for my purpose I had to pass tlirough a
strong barricaded enclosure in which were several apparently
closed up and uninhabited houses. It was some minutes
before it struck me that I was in the presence of, to me the
most interesting of their buildings and their most sacred
institution — which I had seen, but without learning anything
about, at Sauo — the Uma-LuU, a designation which I scarcely
know how to translate other than by Pomali House.

I am extremely doubtful whether it is to be reckoned among
their really religious institutions or not. It has connection
with the practice of the Taboo, but whether it has been
introduced into this island along with a race that migrated
from the Pacific, or has arisen de novo among themselves I am
unable to conjecture. It is just possible that on their own
customs they may have grafted an imitation of some of the
rites of the Romish ritual, which has now more or less been
known to them for 300 years. If a family cluster consists of
several houses, there is invariably one among them called the

7.V TIMOR. 443

Uma-Luli ; and near the residence of the rajah there is always
one large one, which is the Uma-Luli of the kingdom. As a
rule, however, the tribal Uma-Luli is flanked by two others, or
occasionally by more, if the kingdom is lar^^e. These edifices
almost invariably stand in a cleared space, surrounded by a
thick fence, as here within a grove of trees on some elevated spot.
AVithin this fence no twig or branch may be broken or cut, no
blade of grass plucked, and no stone overturned under the fear
of the vengeance of the luli ; no tobacco is permitted to be
taken within the sacred boundaries, and no horse or buffiilo may
stray within it. The buildings themselves are large, carefully
built and tended structures of bamboo, raised above the ground
on pillars, and possessing two doors, one at the side and one at
the end. The Luli house can be at once recognised, were it
by nothing else than by the buifalo crania with which it is
decorated on the outside.

An ofiicer who holds one of the highest, and certainly the
most influential position in the kingdom, has charge of the
buildings, and presides over the sacred rites which are con-
ducted in them. He is known as the Vato-Luli, or Rai-
Luli. In times of peace, and on all ordinary occasions, an old
man or woman lives in the building, as a sort of care-taker ;
such a person is named the Luliata. Sometimes an old man
and his wife reside all day in it, but they may not both —
being of opposite sexes — remain all night.

It is not very easy to obtain a good idea of the interior
arrangements of the Uma-Luli, as it is impossible for heretics
to get within it, or often very near it. Even natives of Timor
who have become nominally Sirani (Christian) are prohibited
from entering it ; but by sedulously questioning those who
knew, I was able to gather that of the two doors (whose direc-
tion does not seem to be a matter of importance), one is re-
served for the Dato-Li'M, or chief priest, and the other for the
persons consulting the fates to enter. By the Data's door no
one but himself may enter ; it opens into a portion railed off
by ornamented wooden pillars from the larger portion of
the building, into which the people have entrance. In the
smaller part are preserved different articles of veneration — the
cranium of a buffalo, a spear, a shield, a chopper, a gun (almost
falling to pieces, and of an old, old pattern, my guide told me.

444 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

" yet it is more powerful than any other gun, however new ") ;
besides these there is a bag containing the vestments of the
priest, which are a broad band of scarlet cloth for his head, a
circular breastplate of gold, worn suspended on the neck ; two
gold discs, about 15 centimetres in diameter, to cover the ears ;
a broad crown of gold, with two long buffalo-like horns of the
same material projecting from it, and gold armlets and earrings.
Within this enclosure there is, besides, the most sacred object
of all — the Vatu-Luli, or stone on which the offerings are laid
to the invisible deity. Each of these stones they believe to
have been given to the people of Timor for this purpose when
the universe was made. In the larger portion of the building
there is a fire-place, and vessels and cooking utensils sacred to
the use of the Uma-LuU.

The different buildings are fitted up in the same way, but
only on high occasions is the central one opened. It is kept
open during the whole time of war, and in it quarrels arising
between the different districts of the kingdom are arranged.
In times of flood or of drought or of famine an offering is made
to ward off this disaster. If a man has an ordinary sickness
in his house, he does not consult either of the larger Liili
houses, but offers a fowl or a pig to the Lull — at a little railed-
ofif portion — in his own house. If he should lose several
members of his family, or he be oppressed by any other great
distress, he then applies to the priest for permission to speak
with the LuH. Then, bringing rice with a pig or a fowl, he
enters the Uma-LuU with the Bato, each going in by his o\\n
door. When the Dato has put on his proper vestments he
kills the fowl or other animal, and having placed a piece of
flesh from its heart and the side of its head on the Vatu-Luli,
or altar-stone, he cooks the rest along with the rice on the fire
in the Luli house. After both have partaken of this food, the
Dato converses with the Luli, and thereafter turning to the
applicant he gives him siri and pinang-nut, with the assurance
that the sickness will depart or his difficulty disappear. Before
planting their Indian corn or paddy crop, they kill a pig or
fowl, and both on their own Luli stone and on that in the sacred
house common to the district, they lay a piece of its flesh.

Their greatest ceremonial, however, takes place on the eve
of a war. I shall never forget the graphic description given

IN TIMOR. 445

me by the guide who was accompanying me, and who himself
in a late war had been an actor in the scene, of the selecting
by Heaven of those who were to sustain the honour of
their country in the field. On the eve of a war, he told
me, messengers are sent to every corner of the kingdom
and country to summon from wherever he is, and from
whatever he is employed, every man who owes alle-
giance to their Rajah. From the TJma-LuU near which we
stood, the hill sloped up in a vast shallow, natural amphi-
theatre, bounded on all sides by precipitous and inaccessible
valleys. " Here," he said, " every man of the kingdom assem-
bled, each with a fowl in his hand on which to read his fate,
until the whole of this hill was full, sitting close together in
silence, each man dressed in his war attire, w ith his gun on his
shoulder, his sword by his side and his spear in his hand ; they
sat row upon row from the bottom all the way up to the top
there, round and round." As he spoke his eyes flashed up,
and I could picture to myself the wild and expectant mien of
the half-savage crowd. '• The Dato-LuH," he continued, " then
appeared at the door of the great Lidi house in all the awesome
vestments of his office, with the sacred spear and the gun and
the shield beside him, and before them all he sacrificed a bufitalo.
After placing a piece of its flesh, along with siri and pinang on
the Vatu-luli, or altar-stone, he invoked the spirits of our dead
forefathers, then on Maromak of the heavens (in other districts
the deity is known by the name JJruhatu and Laraula, signifving
sun and moon) and on Him of the earth. Then in turn he called
out every man present singly, who, advancing to the high
priest each with his fowl in his hand, gave it to the Dato-LuJi,
who slayed it in presence of the assembled company. According
as the animal dies with its right foot or its left foot elevated,
and according as the colour of the siri juice which the Dato
expectorates on the brow and breast of the man before him is
bright scarlet or dark, does the Maromak indicate whether the
man is chosen to fight for his kingdom or destined to stay at
home and guard the women. If the fowl die with its rifi:ht leo;
elevated, and the siri spittle be bright scarlet, the omens are
in favour of the consultor, who then, turning from the Dato-
Lull, draws his sword, and, brandishing it wildly in the air,
exclaims — ' I'm a Man ; I'm a Brave,' and takes his place on
30

446 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the hillside apart along with the chosen. If the left limb of the
fowl remain elevated, or the siri spittle on the brow and breast
of the applicant appear of a dark colour he stands rejected,
and retires crest-fallen to a place in another group on the left.
Those rejected on the first occasion may re-consult the omens
a second time ; and, if the fates permit them to go to the war,
it is probable that they may be wounded, and not impossible
that they may be killed. If any man who has been rejected,
however, dares to venture into the fight, he will certainly,
they implicitly believe, be killed, whereas in the case of those
whom the Luli has chosen, no bullet or weapon can hurt them.
AVhen the number of those who are to fight is complete, theii
leader is called out before them by the Dato-Luh\ who, after
giving him siri and pinang out of his own mouth to eat,
instructs him how to treat the wounded, and to give the dying
their last siri and pinang, a supply of which he gives him from
that preserved in the Uma-LidV

During war the Dato never quits the Uma-Luli ; his food
is brought to him or cooked inside. Day and night he must
keep the fire burning, for should he permit it to die, disaster
will happen to those in the field which will continue as long
as the hearth is cold. He must besides drink only hot water
during the time the army is absent, for every draught of cold
water would damp the spirits of the people, so that they could
not prevail. On their return from the war the Dato-Jjidi goes
out to welcome them at the head of all those who remained
behind — the women beating musical instruments, and shouting
^' Osivai! Osivai!" to the men who are returning laden with
heads.

Their belief in the presence of a supernatural Presence
resident in the LnU-house is absolute. I was told, with the
most perfect belief of my informant in his own statements, that
one of the Catholic priests from Dilly, while on a proselytizing
mission, having demanded that the LvJi house should be
dismantled and its profane ornaments cleared out, was instantly
on his setting foot within the door to commit the sacrilegious
act which no one else would dare to do, threatened by the
sacred spear, sword and gun in invisible hands, while the altar-
stone bounded about through the building so menacingly that
he was glad to beat a retreat ! When it is necessary to erect

IN TIMOR. 447

a new Litli house, every male in the kingdom must contribute
a share of the labour and cost. When it is finished a buffalo is
killed to consecrate the building. When this has been properly-
done, the vestments, the sacred stone and utensils are then
carried in, and a second buifalo is sacrificed and portions of its
flesh laid on the LuU stone. A great feast follows with music
and dancing, in which the Bato-Luli in his sacred attire, and
the rest of the people in their gayest dresses and ornaments
take part.

I took advantage of my enforced stay here to increase my
herbarium with many of the interesting plants I had seen on
our way up from the Maukuda river, obtaining some very rare
species, such as Hypoxis hygrometrica, Wollastcnia asperrima,
and an Ophioglossum fern.

In the evening the Leorei at last arrived to pay his official
visit. I had hoped to find the Eajahs of the interior hedged
round ^^ ith some state. I was quite disappointed, for although
not without some dignity of bearing, there was little to distin-
guish him from those about him excej^t that he wore a ^lalayan
sarong, and that his Tdis, or native-made toga-like robe, was
ornamented and fringed v/ith silk, an insignia of royalty. He
was not yet de facto ruler, for his father was " sleeping " (the
long sleep) " in his house," and not yet buried, as there were
not yet amassed sufficient cattle and pigs for a royal sepulture.
He spoke and read Portuguese with some fluency, and by the
questions he asked about the objects of my journey, and in
the quickness with which he comprehended my description of
the working of an aneroid, a tliermometer and a prismatic
compass that I showed him, he exhibited an amount of
intelligence that rather surprised me. Why the n:!agnetic
needle turned always to the same point puzzled him bevond
measure, and I could see that my reply, that Maromak made
it so, was not altogether satisfactory to him.

Like most of the Rajahs, who in their periodical visits to
Dilly have been brought into contact with, and influenced by
the Catholic priests, my royal friend was a professor of their
faitli, as well as a follower of the pagan rites of his own people ;
and to see over against the Lnii temple, a lone and uncompre-
hended symbol of the Christian ftiith in front of a small,
neglected bamboo edifice representing a chapel of its worship,

448 A NATURALIST' S WANDERINGS

could not but raise strange reflections in the breast of a
European traveller.

As still another day of waiting for the horses for the
continuance of our journey — to the kingdom of BibifUfu — had
to be passed here, I was not disappointed at the opportunity
thus afforded of increasing my herbarium along the slopes
of Rusconna, whose summit commanded a view of botli seas
— the Tassi-feto or female sea on the north, and the Tassi-
manni or male sea (as the natives have named them), to the
south — and of the peak of Kabalaki, the highest mountain
of all Eastern Timor. The mountains of Turskain were every-
where covered with a rich carpet of green grass, which gave
them a most pleasant and fertile appearance, and on which
thousands of sheep might be pastured with great profit.

7.V TIMOR 449

CHAPTER III.

IN THE KINGDOM OF BIBir'UgU.

Leave for Bibicncu — Bridles — A trio of Braves — War and its attendant
ceremonies — Rahomali — Luli ground — Bibicucu — Harvest-fields — Culti-
vation— ^Take the law into my own hands — Connubial relations — Water-
fall— Birds — Herbarium — Disquieting news — Mou nt Kabalaki — Move
forward to Saluki — Native market — Description of natives seen there —
Ornaments — Dyes — An enraged Timorese — Red-haired race — Timorese
a mixed race — Up the Makulala River — Gold — Ceremonies of gold-
gathering — Arrive at the Rajah of Saluki's.

Fridaij, April Qth. — At dayliglit besfan the loading of the
horses and men ; but finding that the herbarium gathered at
Turskain would from its size hamper our progress very much,
1 had it packed up and sent by special messengers to Fatunaba
to A. About seven o'clock we got under weigh for the Eajah
of Bibi^ufu's by a south-east course towards the sharp peak of
Tahaolat. The horse I now rode was furnished with a native
saddle, composed of long pads on each side of the spine,
secured by cords instead of bands, and with neat wooden
pulleys in place of buckles. The Timorese in riding place
only the great toe in the stirrup, consequently these were
merely little blocks of wood at the end of a cord, with a hole
for the insertion of the digit; or, often more simply still, a
small wooden disk for the support of the first two toes, between
which the stirrup cord is grasped. The bridle-bit — a fearful
instrument of torture from the sharp spikes with which it was
armed — was of brass, of native manufacture and good work-
manship, cast, as I was told, in separate pieces in a mould of
wax, lined with very fine clay.

On one of the hill-tops on our way we passed three men who
had come from a neighbouring hut to see our cavalcade. My
servant, who was a native of the kingdom we were approach-

450 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

ing, gave and received from the group a hard stare ; but no
words v\ere exchanged. When we had gone a little way, he
looked back at the group. •' These are Braves," he said, after
a little, with somewhat of admiration, I thought, in his tone.

" Indeed ! " I said, " how do you know ? "

"The tallest of them," he replied, \Nith a coolness that
astonished me, " cut off my father's head in their war with
Bibi^ufu."

" Do you not feel any rancour towards him ? Don't yon
wish to have it out with him now ? "

" Oh, no ! the two kingdoms are now at peace ; each has
given back the heads they took, long ago."

The custom of head-hunting, as carried on among the wild
tribes of Borneo, is not practised among the Timoresfi except
during war, which is begun after the most explicit declaration.

When a raid by one tribe has taken place on the fields or
herds of a tribe in a neighbouring kingdom, a messenger is
sent with the intelligence to its Rajah. If the rulers of the
two kingdoms are united by the ordinary ties of friendship, or
by the sanctity of the blood-bond, the affair is settled after
long parleys and discussions, by the payment of an agreed-on
price. Kingdoms related to the belligerents by ties of marriage
or sworn brotherhood usually send a contingent to assist in
the war, or a kingdom may hire men from a neighbouring
or friendly power. If any of these are killed they must be
redeemed by a large sum, so much for the eyes, hair, mouth,
nose, and for every limb and organ of the body, much after the
custom of reckoning the value of a man in vogue in the island
of Burn or among our own early ancestors. " The freeman's
life and the freeman's limb had each on this (bloodwite)
system its legal price. ' Eye for an eye,' ran the rough code,
and ' life for life,' or for each fair damages."

If no goodwill exist between the two kingdoms, no satisfac-
tion will be obtained. War is prepared for, and by the sacred
rites described above the men who are to sustain their cause in
the field are selected. At length, when the armies meet, a last
discussion of the question is held by a representative of each
side who advances in front of the respective armies. If no
agreement is come to the fight begins. Being really of a very
cowardly spirit, they never fight in the open but from behind

IN TIMOR. 451

trees aud crags. Hostilities are carried on mostly by the
oifensive army pillaging and ravaging all they can lay hands
on, robbing every undefended dwelling, ruthlessly decapitating
helpless men, women, and children, and even infants.

In most districts all the warriors fight on foot ; but the
Lamkitos, who live between Alias on the south coast and the
great mountain of Kabalaki, fight from horseback with their
legs tied under their horses' bellies, so that, in case of their
being wounded or killed, they may be carried back to their
own village with their heads on their shoulders.

When one of their number has ftillen, sorely wounded or
killed, there is in general a grand stampede of all his com-
panions. The valiant marksman rushes forward, and, standing
over his fallen foe, calls out to his friends, " Ho ! what is the
name of this man ? " His friends call back, " Ho ! that is so
and so ; " to which the response is, " Know, then, that I am so
and so," and, lifting up his enemy's head by the ear or the
hair, he decapitates him at a blow. He carries off the head in
triumph, retires to his own house, and sets about preparing and
preserving the head, by removing the brain and drying the
flesh and skin before a slow fire. He never washes his hands
till he returns with the army to its own capital, when those
who come back carrying heads are saluted by the women, who
along with the Bato Luli have come out to meet them with
music, with the cry of Oswai! Oswai! ('•' Braves ! braves ! ' )

For every head the fortunate warrior brings back he
receives a present from the Eajah, and a circular disk, or lua
of gold, which he henceforth continually wears round his neck
— a Timorese Victoria Cross. The captured heads are carefully
preserved by both sides in the conflict, till such time as
amicable relations can be established between them, when a
general assembly of the two kingdoms is held whither the
heads taken in the war are brought also, and amid terrible
bowlings and lamentations they are restored by each side to
the relatives of the deceased. Each "Brave," in giving up
the head he has taken, gives a small gift to the relatives that
friendship between them may be restored, which is cemented
by, as usual, a boisterous feast, concluded by heavy drinking,
and the wild dancing of the Tahklu already described. The
recovered heads are now placed with the unburied members,

452 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

which can then obtain sepulture. Every head is invariably
forthcoming at such a peace-making, otherwise amicable rela-
tions could scarcely be restored, certainly not without a very
heavy price for the missing skull.

The ceremony of blood-brotherhood alluded to above, or the
swearing of eternal friendship, is of an interesting nature, and
is celebrated often by fearful orgies, especially when friendship
is being made between families, or tribes, or kingdoms. The
ceremony is the same in substance whether between two
individuals or large companies. The contracting parties slash
their arms, and collect the blood into a bamboo, into which
luinipa (coarse gin) or laru (palm-wine) is poured. Having
provided themselves with a small fig-tree (halik) they adjourn
to some retired spot, taking with them the sword and spear from
the Lidi chamber of their own liouses if between private indi-
viduals, or from the Uma-LuU of their Suku if between large
companies. Planting there the fig-tree, flanked by the sacred
sword and spear, they hang on it a bamboo-receptacle, into
which — after pledging each other in a portion of the mixed
blood and gin — the remainder is poured. Then each swears,
'• If I be false, and be not a true friend, may my blood issue from
my mouth, ears, nose, as it does from this bamboo ! " the bottom
of the receptacle being pricked at the same moment to allow the
blood and gin to escape. The tree remains and grows as a
witness of their contract. It is one of their most sacred oaths, and
almost never, I am told, violated at least between individuals.

If a member of a family of a king marries into that of
another, the two kingdoms often swear friendship, and when
the one is at war the other is bound to send men to aid him.
One brother coming to another brother's house is in every
respect regarded as free, and as much at home as its owner.
Nothing is withheld from him ; even his friend's wife is not
denied him, and a child born of such an union would be
recognised by the husband as his. In speaking of the
Greenland Esquimaux, Egede expressly states that they were
reputed the best and noblest-tempered, who, without any pain
or reluctance, would lend their friends their wives.

Ascending by a \ery steep path, bordered with Mitrosacme,
hare-bells, geraniums, wood-sorrel and some liliaceous plants,
we reached the top of Rahomali at 4700 feet, whence a

IN TIMOR. 453

magnificent view lay before us of an immense tract of country
between both seas, riven and ploughed up in the most gigantic
manner, not an acre of level land being visible anywhere save
by the margin of the seas, and in which every isolated peak
and crag was capped by a dwelling. Having halted a short
time to survey the scene, I observed that the sky was becoming
overcast, and gave orders to the men to move on briskly in
advance, as I feared it would rain. My boy turned sharply
and besought me, *' Oh, master, do not say that word ! " (for
rain) ; " these mountains are not good, and if you say that
word here, we shall certainly be overtaken in a storm." The
incident recalled to me a like dread of certain mountain-tops
exhibited by the natives in Buru.

Hence our course lay almost due south right over the peak
of Tahaolat— rising up to 6000 feet ; but its impracticable
crags necessitated our making a descent of 2000 feet by a
spiral track round half its girth, in the face of an almost
perpendicular slope, from which radiated many deep and in-
accessible ravines, clothed, I could perceive, with a dense and
interesting vegetation of Lauriniie, Ericaceee and numerous
small epidendric orchids and Lycopods.

Where the spur of Tahaolat commenced to rise towards
Mount Ailor — 4200 feet — I rode close past a pond full of ducks
of the species Tadorna rajah, whose very tameness and utter
disregard of us might have told me, even if I had not been
carefully warned, that they were on Lull ground, where I dare
not shoot ; even the scarlet algse covering the surface of the
water, it was sacrilege to touch. A long and gradual descent
brought us at last to the Eajah's of BibifUfu, where we were
assigned a guarda on a windy bluff at 3200 feet above the sea,
commanding a view of the whole country along the southern
coast from beyond Cape Luca in the east to far past AHas in
the west, its low littoral grooved by broad blue-black river-beds
margined with casuarinas. Within the neighbouring kingdom
of ]Manufahi the Peak of Kabalaki, with its rugged battle-
ments and beetling crags, reared its majestic summit over
10,000 feet into the air. The whole region was hewed up into
narrower and more precipitous valleys than any I had yet
traversed — features awesome and imposing, but with little to
commend them to a kindly place in the aftections.

454 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

I was struck by observing that the roofs of the houses about
me were surmounted by an ornament (see opposite page)
closely resembling that found on temples in Fiji, as shown in
Stanford's ' Australasia,' which may perliaps be an indication
of some relationship or communication in former times with
the Polynesian races. In one of the baskets which I obtained
in the Tenimber Islands, the lid, which was hut-shaped, cul-
minated in an ornament of the same form.

The Rajah himself was absent, and we did not receive a
particularly pleasant welcome from the Rajah Katuas, who was
acting as his substitute ; but, desiring to live on the best terms
possible with this kingdom, where I hoped to make a prolonged
stay, I overlooked as much as possible his conduct. From
what I had learned of the district from my boy while still at
Fatunaba, my curiosity and interest were excited, not only in
its flora and fauna, but in the curious customs that prevailed
among the people of this rarely visited and little known
region.

In travelling south, after crossing tlie Kaimauk river, a
considerable change is observable in the flora. The Melaleuca
greatly diminishes in numbers, while in the ravines Casuarinas,
Urostigmas, and species of Ficus become more abundant ; and
Acacias, aromatic Lahiatx, shrubby Malvacese and Melastomacese
cover the more exposed slopes, where also clumps of tall, dark
foliaged bamboos, with graceful nodding plumes, form quite a
feature in the landscape. Whenever considerable patches of
trees have attained the dignity of a wood, one may be sure that
there the land is Lull — sacred territory — where, if he is per-
mitted to enter, the botanist may not break or cut a single
branch. These spots — often the highest peaks of mountains —
having been lulied for generations, must be the richest store-
houses of all the rarest plants and trees in their localities.

How aggravating to the spirit it was to be prevented from
collecting there it is needless to describe.

My collecting was often enlivened by the sound of happy
singing from the fields, which on all sides were during my
stay in the height of the rice harvest, here as in all other lands
a season of mirth and rejoicing. In the liarvest-field every
one — old men, women, and children— comes out to help. The
older people in the centre of a long line, with the youths on

-^i.

H-

r:'

i -^

m R

--vy:-.d

IN TIMOR. 455

the one hand and the maidens on the other, advance from the
margin of the field, stripping off between their fingers the
grains of corn into little baskets carried in the hand. The
older men strike up a song, to which the youths and maidens
sing a chorus, while sometimes the youths sing, and are replied
to by the maidens, in more or less amorous strains. Behind
this line two carriers bear an immense basket for the reception
of the contents of the smaller ones in the hands of the reapers,
who call out when these are filled. When the crop is all
gathered a great feast — called Sallalah — is given, at which
immense quantities of the new and sweet rice are consumed,
along with pig or goat flesh and abundant libations of Icanipa,
followed by music and dancing throughout the entire night.

In Bibipufu rice ^vas grown largely ; but the most exten-
sively cultivated and consumed cereal in Timor is the Indian
corn, which is grown often on the very steepest slopes, where a
cool head and a sure foot are required to move about safely.
A simple pointed stake for making holes to receive the corns,
and a rude hoe called haissualce, with which they roughly
scrape the ground after it has been cleared by fire, are their
only agricultural implements. In the flat lands by the coast,
where rice is grown in water-covered fields, entailing in their
preparation mucli greater labour, the people of a Suku com-
bine together to construct their common irrigating channels.

Before the sowing of the fields a fowl or a small pig is
sacrificed in the Lidi chamber of the owner's house and a rich
head of rice and Indian corn suspended as an invocation for a
bountiful harvest. It amused me to observe how meanly they
had occasionally tricked their invisible Spirit by offering only
a husk of maize from which all the corns had been carefully
picked ! In the month Futan when the grain has all been
gathered, the greatest Lull feast of the year takes place, at
which a buffiilo is offered by the Dato in the great Lidi house
of the Suku as a harvest thanksgiving.

Only on the return of the Rajah, three days after my arrival,
was I able to obtain horses to send back to Fatunaba for the
botanical drying-paper and the trade goods which I was
unable to bring with me. He had been in a distant part of his
kingdom near the south coast, looking after the harvesting of
rice-fields that he had there, and had returned for a day only

456 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

to see that I was properly attended. His instructions, how-
ever, were neglected the moment he turned his back and left
the direction of affairs to his old uncle, who acted as Viceroy.
The kingdom was by their custom bound to supply me with
provisions, each family having one day's rations to provide
and deliver at our guarda. As the people lived so widely
scattered, they often managed to shirk their duty, leaving us
utterly without anything to eat. I would far rather have
purchased provisions ; but no one would sell or desired to sell.
Out of their scant stores they grudgingly gave what they were
ordered to give, and had they accepted any price for it, it
would have been claimed by the Rajah.

On one occasion, after having gone without a particle of
food for a whole day, even after appeal and threats to the
Viceroy, I took the law into my own hands by shooting the
first large fat pig I encountered. It was the projDerty, as it
luckily turned out, of the Rajah himself. I say ku^kily, for
I would rather that his herds were plundered than his people's,
and because this simple act disclosed for me a curious
law of their country. By the fault of some member of this
community my act had caused this loss to the Rajah, a wrong
which had to be expiated by a fine levied on all the Sukus of
the kingdom, not on the offending individual alone.

In the early days of our own history, " the price of life or limb
was paid, not by the wroug-doer to the man he wronged, but by
the family or house of the wrong-doer to the family or house of
the wronged. Order and law were thus made to rest in each
little group of English people uj>on the blood-bond which knit
its families together ; every outrage was held to have been done
by all who were linked by blood to the doer of it ; every crime
to have been done against all who were linked by blood to the
sufferers from it. From this sense of the value of the family
bond as a means of restraining the wrong-doer by forces which
the tribe as a whole did not possess, sprang the first rude forms
of English justice. Each kinsman was his kinsman's keeper,
bound to protect him from wrong-doing, and to suffer with
and pay for him if wrong were done." *

This incident is one which well illustrates how near a
traveller seeking for information of an abstract kind, may be
* Green's ' History of the Englisli People/ page 3.

IN TIMOR. 457

to missing some of the most characteristic and interesting of
the laws and customs of a people, and how only by a lucky
chance or mischance in the most unexpected way he may light
on fundamental facts of their history.

I was fortunate enough to gain also much information about
the curious connubial relations prevailing in this part of the
island, which recall the husband-clans and wife-clans existing
among some of the iVustralian tribes.

To the west of Bibifupu lies the neighbouring kingdom of
Manufahi, and to the south-west that of Alias. The men of
Maniifahi cannot imrcliase wives from Bibifupu, but the men
of Bibifucu can obtain wives by barter from Manufahi. The
women of BibifUfu can obtain husbands from Manufahi, if
these men come and live during the lifetime of their wives
in the kingdom of their wives. No purchase-iwowey may be
paid, and none may be accepted for them. The son of the
Rajah of jManufahi may marry the daughter of the Eajah of
BibifUfu, but he cannot on any condition obtain her by pur-
chase, nor may she settle in Manufahi ; he must remain in
BibifUfu during her lifetime.

Saluki and Bidauk are two districts of the kingdom of
BibifUfu. A man of Saluki may marry a woman of Bidauk,
and take her back with him to Saluki ; but he must purchase
her, and it is not in his option to remain in Bidauk with his
wife's relatives instead of paying for her. On the other hand,
the men of Bidauk can marry with the women of Saluki ; but
the man must go to Saluki and live in the house of the woman,
and he has not the option of paying for her at all. The
children of the union belong to her, and on her death inherit
all her i)roperty, ^^hile the husband returns to his own kino--
dom, leaving the children behind him, except in the case of
their being more than two, v.'hen he is entitled to claim at
least one. This is possibly the remnants of matriarchal
descent. These restrictions, however, do not hold \\ith a
man of Saluki if, for instance, he select a wife from a kin^--
dom which is not related in this curious way to his own
kingdom ; also, as far as I am able to learn, Manufahi men
may take wives from Alias — or Alhis men from oManufahi —
on paying the ordinary price demanded in these kingdoms for
a wife, without incurring any restriction as to residence. The

458 A NATUlTALIST'S WANDEBINGS

Timorese apply the name Vasumanni to the husband-giving,
and Fetosau to the woman-supplying clan.

In Timor monogamy is the rule ; concubinage is also
practised ; but rarely otherwise than among the Eajahs
and chiefs. The wife of the Eajah — his concubines may be
whom he will — must be the daughter of a royal house, and is
selected by the people of the kingdom from among the best-
looking daughters of some neighbouring Eajah. When an
agreement has been come to as to the price of the bride
between these people or their representatives and the father of
the girl — always with the consent of her father's people — the
suitor-kingdom sends a deputation to stay and be, as it were,
a guard over the prospective mother of their future king,
till the price — always a large sum, often as many as two
or three hundred buffaloes, along with herds of horses and
goats, of sheep and pigs, of gold in dust and gold manufac-
tured, with piles of native cloth — has been paid. When the
money and gold portion of it has been sent to the father of the
girl, the future husband is invited, as a rule, to his father-in-
law's, where, after a great feast, at which hundreds of buffaloes
are killed, the girl is handed over to her lord and master to be
conveyed to his own kingdom. A large escort of her father's
people convey her to her new home, where, as long as any part
of the price is unpaid, they remain guests, as a daily reminder
to the Eajah that the balance is still to pay.

If the Eajah have a son, he succeeds his father. If he have
daughters only, the eldest becomes Eajah in esse, whose active
duties are performed by a lieutenant, and the others may
become the wives of neighbouring Eajahs. If no Eajah oifers
for them, they may not be married to any one not of royal
descent, with the exception, perhaps, and that very rarely, of
some of the highest officers in the kingdom.

The people of the kingdom choose their queen's husband.
Having fixed their choice on a suitable person in some neigh-
bouring kingdom, they send a deputation to request the per-
mission of its Eajah and people for one of his sons to become
the husband of their queen. If the proposal is agreeable to
them, the selected youth is conveyed to his new kingdom,
receives its queen as a gift, and is endowed with the status
and rank of a nominal Eajah. He must remain in his new

VIEW IN THE SEKARATA VALLEY, BlBIflfU.

IN TIMOR. 459

kingdom as long as his wife is alive, and his children belong
to the kingdom of his adoption. If, however, there are more
children than two, a boy, or a boy and a girl, belong to the
husband, and are at liberty to return to, and are in fact
claimed by his father's kingdom, and are the inheritors of
his property, while the rest are heirs of her's. AVlien the
queen dies, her consort returns to his father's kingdom, but
he can take with him nothing from his wife's home ; every-
thing there belongs to her children. If he die first, his body
is carried to his own family burying-ground ; but I am not
sure by whom the death-and-burial feasts are provided.

If the Eajah of Bibi9U5U, for instance, have no children,
the people of his kingdom beg the services of a son always of
the Rajah of Manufahi, as their Rajah, for the payment of a
certain sum to his kingdom as hire. His new kingdom then
purchases a wife for him, if he be unmarried. Shoidd the
kingdom of Manufahi lose all heirs to its throne, it may
demand back again the reigning Rajah of BibifUfu. If he
has children while Rajah of Bibicucu, or afterwards, they
belong to the kingdom which purchased for him his wife,
with the reservation just mentioned, of a boy or a boy and a
girl to become his heirs. If, however, the kingdom of Bibi-
9U9U has hought and not hired merely the son of the Rajah of
Manufahi, he cannot be recalled on a vacancy occurring in
his own father's kingdom.

In the sunny valley of Serarata, near a picturesque water-
fall, butterflies, chiefly of the common ftimilies of Pieridee and
Lycsenidm, v.ere abundant, and formed all along the water's
edge quite a border of bright colour. Bird-life was far
scarcer than nearer the northern coast, but along the more
wooded flat lands by the southern shores, the natives informed
me that they are very plentiful. A lively little Pipit (Anthus
medius), with the perfect habits and call of a Wagtail, fre-
quented the barer grass fields in flocks, wliile among the
shrubberies a pretty Cisticola which I first took to bo a wren,
and a black Fantail Flycatcher (Rhijndura rujiventris), flitted
about with the restless habit of their tribe. A bright orange
Fachjcephala and a species of Tit (Parus timcrensh), which I
did not obtain, were not uncommon. On the trees the white-
headed Fruit-pigeon {Ptilopus cindus) sat motionless during

460 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

the heat of the day in numbers, on well-exposed branches;
but it was with the most extreme difficulty that I, or my
sharp-eyed native servant, could ever detect them, even in
trees where we knew they were sitting. The peculiar colora-
tion of the plumage of these birds in the hand or in the
cabinet is so conspicuous and striking that it would scarcely
be believed that they can occupy leafless branches (if there be
foliage behind and above them) with the most perfect safety
from detection. Neither the kakuak (Philemon), the oriole, nor
the cuckoo {Centropus), which were so conspicuous among the
trees and shrubs around Fatunaba, were observed at Bibifupu.

My herbarium, however, made more rapid increase than any
of my other collections, and every day I gathered plants rare
or unknown in any European cabinet, to which perhaps the
handsomest addition was a large climbing species of Artocarpese,
with the chastest possible foliage, which coiled itself in regular
spirals about the bole of a tall tree. Its stem was studded
with figs in all stages of growth and of almost every hue, from
richest purple-lake dotted and blotched with pure chinese-
white. to light red or brilliant scarlet speckled with the
deepest orange ; others again, when gathered and laid in a
heap on the ground, might have passed for the eggs of some
of the Pheasant or Grouse families.

On the 20th of April the horses returned from Fatunaba,
bringing me the botanical drying-paper of which I was so
much in need ; and in corners of the baggage, where A. had
mindfully thrust them, I found welcome additions to my table,
which could not have been spared, however, I knew, without
pinching the meagre Fatunaba larder; and among which I
found a note with the evil and disquieting tidings that our
house had been attacked in the night and plundered of nearly
all the stock of trade goods and other valuables that it con-
tained by the treacherous hill-men, who had taken advantage
of her defenceless condition. She bravely said nothing of
being afraid, so I could only hope that the anxious fear — more
trying than the danger of the moment — of further visits from
them might not in the oppressive stillness of the night in her
unprotected hut, prey on her nerves not then fully recovered
from the severe strain of that short but trying scare of a
Kaleobar attack in Timor-laut.

IN TIMOR. 461

I retained the porters and horses to convey me next day to
Saluki, on the other side of the valley of the Makalaha, where
I had arranged to go, not without great disappointment ; for
every day then would be taking me farther from Kabalaki
in the Manufahi kingdom, which I had wistfully gazed at
so long, and whose summit must support a flora the most
interesting of all Eastern Timor. My Hindu guide, however,
refused the responsibility of conducting me thither, not only
because of the Lamkito robbers who skulk in the long grass
at its base to pick off and rob all passers by, but also because
war was on the eve of breaking out between the two king-
doms, which would prevent any Bibifugu man from accom-
panying us.

In leaving Bibi9ucu I made a detour from the shortest
way, attended by a high official of the kingdom, to the bed
^of the Makalaha, which was reached by a steep winding
descent of 1600 feet, as I was very anxious to see the weekly
market of the district, which was held under the Casuarina
trees there.

As soon as my approach was observed a loud screaming
from the women and children spread an alarm resulting in a
stampede of the entire concourse. The officer accompanying
me dashed among them, shouting and reassuring them that I
was only passing by, and was in no way going to meddle with
them. Meantime I had sat down under the shade to place
in paper the plants I had gathered on the way down, with-
out lifting my eyes toward them, and as quite unconscious
of tlieir presence there. By slow degrees, first one, then
another and another, enticed like so many monkeys by
curiosity, crept in about to see the, to them, strange perform-
ance, and as I differed little from an ordinary human being
they forgot their fright, and in a little while the market was
proceeding in its accustomed way, through which I then
strolled quietly with open and interested eyes.

There were between two and three hundred people eougre-
irated — a wild and savaji^e-like crowd. The men were dressed
in little more than the ordinary T-bandage or hahpolihe of
native make, about their loins ; some, but not all, of them
had a kerchief girt about the head, while their hair was
twisted into a knot on the top or back of the head, or combed
31

462

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Out into a crimjied or semi-frizzled mop. Every man wore
suspended over liis shoulder a tais or plaid, which differed in
ornamentation and excellence of manufacture according to the
district in which it had been made. From his shoulder-knob
depended his coi, or wallet, the cords for whose opening and
closing were elaborately strung with circular disks of shells
alternating with dice-like beads of bone richly carved. In
this is carried a store of betel-leaves and pinang-nut, with
tobacco and other chewing necessaries, and the universal
bamboo drinking-cup in case in his travels he should meet

ORXAMEXTED COMB.

some friend or acquaintance who has a supply of palm-wine
{Jaru) or of hanipa, as they name the coarse gin imported
by thousands of cases every month into the country.

Every man was armed with a spear and a long knife, and
if he had not a long Tower flint-lock over his shoulder, he
grasped a bow and a handful of arrows, light shafts made
of the tall canes that grow everywhere in the island, tipped
with poisoned bamboo barbs. Many of them carried besides
a buffalo-hide shield to ward off the stones which, suddenly
enraged, they are in the habit of discharging — and with

IN TIMOR. 463

wonderful power and accuracy — at each other. Most of the
men had round the waist ammunition pouches of thick buffalo-
hide, in form much like European cartridge-belts, with com-
partments for the small bamboo cylinders in which they keep
gunpowder, shot, flints, balls of lead or of ruby crystals
gathered out of the river beds ; here and there a man from
the western kingdoms of the Portuguese territory could be
told by the excellence of the construction of these accoutre-
ments, and the elegant way in which they were studded with
large tin-headed nails, or with rows of Dutch silver coins,
and occasionally with an English sovereign among them
transfixed by a nail through its centre.

The women wear very few ornaments — a few arm-bands of
silver or horn, and occasionally earrin.c^s, and, transfixing the
knot in which their hair was gathered behind, a high semi-
circular comb, elaborately carved in beautiful and complex
patterns. These are said to be given by the youths to their
sweethearts, and possibly represent a sort of engagement
token. Their dress was a simple tunic, the taisfeta, hung
from the waist or from the armpits to the knees.

The women did all the selling and buying, while the men
strutted about exchanging with each other drinks of palm-
wine — to which they are inordinately given. Besides the
different food stuffs, there were exposed for sale on the ground,
piles of those beautiful cloths, entirely spun and woven by
themselves, in which both between
themselves and among the surround-
ing islands a large trade is done, and
cigarette and tobacco holders ex-
quisitely woven out of thin shreds of
palm-leaf, on which are worked in
additional fibres most artistic coloured
designs in yellow, red, and black, of
dyes made also by themselves ; tlie
red out of the nut of the Morinda
citrifolia, the yellow from the epi- ,_
dermis of an epidendric orchid called " oknamentatiox on small
suaih, and the black (or dark blue) bamboo.

from tlie indigo. The favourite and typical carved ornamenta-
tion that I observed on their weapons and accoutiementsi, and

464 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

engraved on the pipe figured on p. 429, closely resembles
that on some of the ancient British remains found at Taplow
in 1882. Another pattern is represented on page 463.

I was told that rarely a month passed without once, or
oftener, the market being suddenly broken up by a drunken
brawl, as few of the men ever leave it sober.

I myself witnessed the preliminary blaze of passion in a
fiery spirit who, aggrieved in some May, had souglit his foe in
the market-place, whither he had come, however, just too late
to find him. It was a sight to remember — the flashing eyes
and passionate mien of that wild savage, the hasty and signifi-
cant look at the priming of his flint-lock, as he dashed away in
hot pursuit (a wild cry being passed down the valley to the
pursued), bounding from rock to rock in the river bed like a
chamois, his coi and long knife dangling by his sides, and his
tais flowing out behind him with the fleetness of his pace. I
watched him till he disappeared behind a bend of the river ;
but I never recall the features of the man without wondering
what was the issue of that passionate chase.

They are a vindinctive j^eople, without a vestige of pity,
as might be expected from their having always had the
dealing out of punishments for wrong done to them by their
own hands. A man I knew, whose neighbour had by accident
(or design) killed his pig, failing to obtain the restitution he
demanded, seized his neighbour's child and ran off with it,
holding it on his shoulder as a shield against the father
should he wish to fire on him, and carried it to the coast,
where he purchased a horse with the proceeds of its sale. I
do not know certainly, but I am strongly of impression, from
what I know of the character of the people, that the vendetta
exists among them.

While in the act of turnino: from watchins: this liuman hunt
to continue my journey my eye lighted on an object that
riveted my interest more than all else among these savage
marketers — a red-haired youth (first one, then a few others),
some with straight, some with curly hair, with red eyelashes,
blue eyes, and the hair over his body also reddish. I
found, on inquiry, that a little colony of them, well known
for their peculiar colour of hair and eyes, lived at Aitiiha,
at no great distance off. Thougli they lived in a colony

IN TIMOR.

465

together, they were not shunned by their neighbours, who even
intermarried with them. The offspring of these unions toolc
sometimes after the one, sometimes after the other parent.

In looking eagerly at their faces T saw more than their
features only ; their presence there was an excerpt out of a
long history. In imagination I saw past them down the dim
avenues of Time — a far far cry— to their early progenitors,
and pictured their weary retreat, full of strange and romantic
vicissitudes from a more northern clime till forced oft' the
mainland by superior might, into exile in this remote isle,
where as a surviving remnant amid its central heights, thev

NATIVES OF BIBI9U5U.

FIG. 2.

are living united but not incorporated with the surrounding
race whose pedigree has no link in common with their own.

What the pedigree of the Timorese is I have not sufficient
evidence for forming any decided opinion ; but that they are
a race in which many elements commingle seems certain. I
saw no one witli wliat I can with perfect truth designate
as " black skin " such as seen among the Aru islanders.
Tall, well-proportioned men, with frizzly hair, and of a rich
yellowish brown or of a chocolate colour, I saw in abundance,
as well as short, stumpy men, with straight hair on the head
and with no lack of beard and moustaches. Mr. Earl * has
also notic(Ml tlie " great diflc'rences exhibited by the peoples
of the tabk'land above Dilly. >Some of the natives have a
dull yellow colour ; the parts exposed to the sun are covered

* 'The Native llaccs of the Indian Archii;elago,' 1853, p. IVO.

466 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

with light brown patches ; the hair is straight and thin,
and its natural colour reddish or of a dark cliestnut brown.
There are also found in Timor all intermediate shades of the
skin, from dark yellow to black or chocolate brown, and the
hair from red and straight to the short and woolly (in another
place, * short-tufted ') hair of the Papuas." As in Timor-laut,
I believe we have in Timor a mixture of Malay represented
perhaps in such ftices as Figs. 1 and 2, Papuan (Fig. 3, p.
466), and Polynesian (Fig. 4, p. 466) races. The accompany-
ing figures, sketched from one kingdom, will show this mixture
better than volumes of description ; they are the portraits of

FIG. 3.

NATIVES OF BIBigUfU.

people taken at random from those constantly about me in
Bibicufu. The colour of skin, form of head, features of face,
character and distribution of hair I met Avith in every variety
and amount of comminglement.

In the eastern extremity of the island the people, I am
told, resemble Malays, and they speak the Malay language.
Among the Fatumatubia Mountains — I have it on the, as I
believe, excellent authority of one of the commandants of the
district — lives a race of dwarfish people, speaking a " language "
of their own. Their dwarfishness consists not so much in the
dimensions of their bodies, as in the shortness of their limbs
which are thick and strong. They live among the rocks, are
great robbers and much detested. The men wear only the

7.V TIMOB. 467

T-bandage ; while the women go absolutely naked, and when
they appear to trade with other than their own people they
ensconce themselves in baskets up to the arm-pits. These
people may possibly be Negritoes.

From the market-place our way lay up a most pleasant
naturally macadamised road in the river bed by a very gentle
ascent. The clifts, of loose shingly horizontally-lying water-
worn detritus, which banked it in on both hands, rose perpen-
dicularly often to 200 feet, through which in many places
elbows of strata at right angles to the direction of the river
protruded forming as it were a series of deep pockets, in the
debris of which especially where there are largish boulders
among it, is found the gold of which this river is said to
contain more than any other in East Timor. The gold is most
abundantly found in pockets beneath which strata dip as to
form as it were a floor, the fatu-viti, the " mat {i.e. bottom)
rock " of the native. The sources of this river, to which no one
may approach without first sacrificing a pig or fowl, are most
rigidly Luli. Only in one month of the year, when the river
is at its lowest ebb, will they dare to undertake any gold-
washing, and then only after one of their most solemn cere-
monials.

Before deciding on a day to commence the gold-washing,
some of the children — in order, as I imagine, that no susi^icion
may be awakened among the river spirits that the search is
intended — are sent to report whether the river is sufficiently
low, and in a favourable condition. On their return the
people are assembled, and public proclamation made — " Oh !
ho ! ho ! four days hence we go to gather gold." On that
day the Bato-luli, dressed in all the vestments of his office,
proceeds (in the district of Saluki) to the top of the curious
Peak of Fatunaruk, where a flat stone exists which is su])posed
to be the most sacred altar in the kingdom. Behind him
follow all the people — men, women and children. The older
men seat themselves on the ground nearer to the Dato, the
women, children, and younger men keeping at a respectful
distance. The Dato-JuU, then in front of the great stone,
invokes the Spirits of their dead, jMaromak of the heavens, and
Him of the earth. All then return to their homes, where each
acting as his own " house-priest," kills a fowl or a small pig,

4G8 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

and offers on the Lull stone in his own house, which he then
carries to the river to wash the auriferous sand over. It is
affirmed that every one finds gold on that day — more or less,
all some. The ritual to be followed by one who is to search for
the first time differs somewhat from that observed by those who
have searched before. On his return from the mountain the
celebrant must enter the TJina-lidi, taking with him a fowl or a
young pig, which, after he has made what appears to be a sort
of confession to the Dato, is killed and a piece of flesh from
its heart and from its jaws is offered to the Luli, the rest
being partaken of by both of them. The novitiate gold-washor,
after receiving some sacred siri and pinang, accompanies the
Dato to the river, where, after another fowl or pig has been
killed he may collect sand anywhere at random, and " of a
surety he will find gold in it, for Maromak Avho alone gives
the gold will give him fortune."

After ascending the river bed for three hours, we turned to
the left up tlie Fatunaruk Peak, 3400 feet, to the chief of
Saluki's, where I spent several busy and successful days among
the vegetation of the deeper ravines. This was the first
metalliferous district I had visited, and for the first time the
proportion of the people suffering from goitre was so large as
to attract notice from the most casual observer.

IN TIMOB. 469

CHAPTER IV. .

SOJOURN IN KAILAKUK AND SAMORO.

i proceed to Fatuboi — River Motaai— Crystalline rocks — A ■weird village —
Rare additions to my herbarium — Butterflies — Move on to the Rajah of
Sainoro's — Vesietation by the way — Geological notes — Penalties of theft
— Samoro — Visit Subale Peak — Botanising under difficulties — Large
herbarium — Return to Samoro and leave for Manuleo.

From Saluki I proceeded with a fresh cavalcade towards
Fatuboi, a conspicuous quadruple-crested mountain of remark-
able configuration, in the Suku of Kailakuk, We had to
commence with an inevitable descent of more than lODO feet,
to the bed of the Motaai, which, like all the Timor rivers
I had made the acquaintance of, ran in a deep bed within
precipi;.ous walls, which in some places rose nearly 300 feet
in height, clothed with unfortunately for me inaccessible
vegetation. After follov\ing its course for four or five hours,
we turned off to the right, up the bed of a small tributary, in
which I found blocks of pure white crystalline limestone, a
kind of rock I had not encountered before. Hence ascend-
ing a long steep ascent of 1500 feet strewed with disrupted
blocks of limestone, we reached the top of the mountain, and
by a narrow rocky stairway winding through a belt of impene-
trable jungle of thorny shrubs, were guided into the most weird
spot conceivable for human habitation, into a small plateau on
the summit of one of the rugged eminences of the mountain.
Guarded on all sides but one, by vertical w alls of limestone,
the plateau was dotted about with gigantic blocks of rugged
and warted coral-like limestone, against and between which
duellings standing on piles on the bare rock, were scattered
about. To right and left rose immense rough, almost in-
accessible pinnacles of the same black witliered calcareous
crags, riven in all dh-eclions with cracks, caverned into dark

470 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

forbidding caves, and traversed by chasms many feet in
width and to the sight reaching down to unfathomable depths.
In front of one of these caves an aged fig-tree, adding its
awesome effect, had dropped its tendrils and wound its roots
into every crevice in weird and gruesome shapes. The place
was just such as would overawe the timid and superstitious
native mind, and I was not surprised to see that there were
nearly as many Lull liouses as dwellings, and that before the
door of the caves stood a Lull stone on which to propitiate
the spirits that haunted their gloomy recesses. The whole
summit of the mountain looked as if it had been shattered
to its very foundation by some gigantic convulsion of nature.
The natives told me that earthquakes, which were the result
of Maromak nodding and letting the world slide off the
straight for a moment, were frequent and severe.

Here I made some most curious, interesting, and very rare
additions to my herbarium ; the most attractive an epidendric
orchid, and a beautiful species of passion-flower which overran
with its bright star-like blossoms the spiny vegetation I have
mentioned ; while the rarest was a curious aroid, Remnsatia
vivipara growing in soilless cracks in tlie calcareous rocks,
whose seeds, as its name implies, germinate in their capsules
before dropping ; and the most annoying a shrub w ith intensely
prickly foliage; called by the people there Silatik — a plant
much dreaded by them ; for when my face was stung badly,
by having come in contact with its leaves, they exhibited
great concern especially for my eyes, and conducted me away
from it. I tried by rubbing several succulent leaves on the
affected part to allay the severe smarting, till a little urchin
who was following me, after shaking his head in the most
significant way to say that they were no good, proceeded to
pound down some of the calcareous rock into a fine powder,
which he brought to me to rub into the wounds. The applica-
tion was, if not curative, very cooling, but the jmin did not
subside for a long time. After I had left the place I learned
that it is the juice from this tree that is applied to the tips of
their arrows as a poison. Among the few butterflies I obtained
I netted, with a heart palpitating with pleasure, the lovely
Cetliosia lamarhii, whose azure wings had tantalised me by flying
alonir the front of the inaccessible cliffs of the river bed below.

IN TIMOB. 471

The trees on the perpendicular faces of the rocks were
crowded with the only mammalian animal I had yet seen,
a lively grey monkey {Macaeus cijnomologus), which chattered
and squeaked most lustily at my intrusion.

With a few extra porters, necessitated by the considerable
additions made to my herbarium here, w^e started north-east
for the Rajah of Samoro's, in whose territory stood the Peak
of Sobale, whose summit I wished to visit. The road thither,
which like all others in this grooved and excavated island
never betook itself along a plain, was a hot and weary up-and-
down trudge through fields thousands of acres in extent, of
tall grass and canes, sparsely dotted Avith bamboo clumps,
with Casuarinas, Acacias, and Euphorbiaceous trees, which
simply cumbered a vast extent of what seemed very fertile
black land. Starting at 2500 feet above the sea, we meandered
through a shallow hollow up to 2700 feet, thence we followed
a long winding descent — which, though interspersed witli
humps and hollows, might in Timor be called level — to
1400 feet where we struck the highway of the Fahiletan
river-bed which brought us 400 feet lower to the residence
of his Majesty of Samoro, whose son received us. The river
banks were wooded with Casuarinas, IMyrtles, and Gum-trees
(which had again become abundant), interspersed with dense
and impenetrable thickets of Bamboo-durie (Schizostachiuin
durio), which offered a splendid hold for the beautiful feathery
Asparagus racemosus and the tendrils of that grand Timor
lily, the Gloriosa superha, whose curiously coloured corolhi,
half scarlet half orange (entirely changing after fecundation
to scarlet), overspread its great clum])s with a fiery blaze of
flowers, while that once so rare and highly prized of orchids,
the Vawla insignis, rejoiced our way with its fragrance.

The strata cropping out in the river-bed were quite different
from any I had noticed elsewhere on my journey. They were
l)ale-gray rough crystalline sandstones in beds half a foot
thick, alternating with black bands of about the same thick-
ness of what had been once fine mud, whose lower surfaces
exhibited radiating annelid-like fossil impressions. These
stratified rocks, which dipped into the river at a high angle,
were in many places clearly seen to be entirely embedded
after they had begun to be attacked by some erodinj^

472

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

or denudini^ agency, in the horizontally laid-down black
shingly detritus which I have already so often referred to,
plainly indicating that at some epoch not geologically very
remote, they had been long submerged, as the whole of Eastern
Timor seems to have been, below an arm of the sea, or pos-
sibly beneath an inland lake ; and after some hundreds of
feet had accumulated on them they were again subjected to

elevation — which has gone on so long, and may still be pro-
gressing— that the rivers have cut their way down through
hundreds of feet in height, and cleared out ravines a thousand
or two of feet in width. Such is the story of the strange
vicissitudes of Eastern Timor revealed by the buried rocks in
the valley of the Fahiletan.

At the entrance to the Rajah's compound I was startled by
suddenly coming on a tall jiole with a fringed triangle near

IN TIMOR. 473

its summit, the pole, as I thought at first sight, impaling a
human body, and the outer corners of the triangle transfix-
ing each a human head. These were happily only made-up
representations of what at no far-back date would have been
realities. This ghastly sign-post, called a hero, had been erected
as a warning to all thieves and offenders of the dire punish-
ment that would be mercilessly meted out to them, just as it
had been (or would have been but for the intervention of
European law over-riding their own) to the three whose cranial
effigies were exposed on the kero, who had been convicted of
stealing fruit, as the bunch of cocoa- and pinang-nuts hung on
a railing below them indicated.

The law of the different kingdoms is a lex non scripta, and has
been handed down from generation to generation. The Leorei
is judge as well as king, but acts only, however, on the rare
occasions when a case is brought before him on complaint, his
judgment being for the litigants always a costly boon. Every
man or his family exacts justice by his own individual arm on
the person or his family by whom he has been wronged. If
the wrong-doer has goods or chattels on which a fine may be
levied, the wronged as a rule exacts a fine in expiation.
Homicide is revenged by death, but this penalty can be
averted by the payment of the equivalent in money or goods
demanded by the relatives, and the substitution of some one of
the offender's family to take the place of the slain. A robber
taken in the act used to be executed on the spot — and is even
now when the avenger is likely to escape punishment by the
European authorities, who have rightly interfered with the
old savage administration of justice in the rajahships — and if
the theft consisted of a living animal the head of the animal
was struck off and affixed near that of the robber on a stake.

Every crime, however small, could be avenged by death,
but if the offender were sufficiently rich, they could all be
expiated by a fine except two : adultery with any of the
rajah's family, and the being a Sivangi or sorcerer, for which
the punishment — or perhaps it ought to be called cure — was
impalement with all liis family, and confiscation of their goods
for the benefit of the accuser and of the lord of the soil.

Law and justice are to be seen in Timor, at the present day,
emerging from the rudimentary stage. Hitherto each native

474 A NATUBALIST'S WANDERINGS

has exercised " the right which formed the main check upon
lawless outrage, the right of private Avar. Justice had to
spring from each man's personal action, and every freeman was
liis own avenger. The bloodwite, or compensation in money
for personal wrong, was the first effort of the tribe as a whole
to regulate private revenge." *

As the taking of life is strictly forbidden by the Portuguese,
and punished with the utmost severity when proof can be
obtained, causes before the Eajah are becoming more frequent
in order to obtain the fines which the wronged claims from the
wrong-doer for his offence, which in former times, if not paid,
would have been atoned for by his head.

After a day or two's botanising at Samoro, accompanied by
the king's son, I started on the oOth of April on a sure-footed
little pony I had purchased from the l\ajah of Bibifugu, for the
top of Mount Sobale, travelling in a direction N. 21° W., up a
more gradual slope than usual to 2600 feet, whence we looked
down into the valley of the Buarahu. Here some of the
wildest and grandest scenery of our whole journey met my
view. It is impossible to describe the castellated crags and
lines of perpendicular and inaccessible cliffs that reared their
giant masses sheer above the landscape, or the irregular
blocks that thrust themselves through the grassy slopes, as if
they had been dropped about without any relation to the
geology of the region. Meantime they remain in undisturbed
keeping for the tourist of the future in quest of striking and
impressive scenery.

Turning to the left, we followed a path on another of these
inevitable razor-edge ridges, only the width of the path broad,
up which our ponies carried us with scarcely a rest to an
elevation of 4000 feet above the sea — a brave feat of climbing
which well earned for them the hour's relaxation at Manulu,
where we rested before setting our faces towards the steeper
shoulder of Sobale. This farther ride took us round the head
of the valley of the Buarahu by an eerie and dangerous path,
dilapidated and often landslipped, in which at many points a
single stumble of our ponies would have left nothing between
us and a fall of 2000 feet into the river bed. At 5000 feet,
where we reached a safe road on the mass of the mountain
* Green's ' History of tlie Euglisb. People.'

IN TIMOR. 475

itself, I could freely turn my attention to the thousands of
violets, geraniums and labiates that decked the ground, and
the profusion of ferns that loaded the banks and the trees,
among which I observed, in the forest that covered the upper
2000 feet of the peak, abundance of Pandans, Oasuarinas, and
other Pines. To my infinite disgust and disappointment, I
overheard the Kajah's son tell my interpreter to warn me
that all the forest was rigidly Luli, boding ill for my next
day's prospects. By dropping behind, however, out of sight,
I that night made sure of all that I could possibly carry,
and followed quietly through little belts of vegetation of the
greatest interest to Punuruau, the little house-cluster on a
lower spur of the mountain where we had arranged to camp.

I retired to rest with a well-laid plan of rising early and
slipping off to the mountain without being seen or followed.
There was little inducement to lie late, for my couch was un-
comfortable and the night-wind cold ; I was therefore easily
ready for the field before daylight. After a hasty breakfast I
stepped quietly away for Sobale attended by my Hindoo cor-
poral, and thought I had succeeded in escaping unperceived,
especially as a dense mist enshrouded the mountain. Alas !
we had not gone far when I discovered that quite a little
crowd, following the Dato of the place, was on our trail.
There was no time to be lost, so I hewed away right and left
on the slopes below the summit, building up a high pile on
the ground of the most delightful specimens.

The unwonted operations of a wliite man, the first who had
probably ever ascended their mountain, kept them for a while
at a little distance watching my operations in silence. My
hopes began to rise that perhaps I was mistaken in what I had
overheard the day before. It was a vain delusion; for their
low murmured reproaches at last found distinct utterance in
complaint and remonstrance. The corporal was besought to
restrain me, and save myself as well as them from the retribu-
tion of sickness and death that certainly Avould follow on the
violation of the sacred precincts. I told my l>illy interpreter
to express my deep regret, and that I would at once desist ;
but I gave him to understand that he was not to bring nie any
more of their mcssapres nor heed me in whatever I did. Movinir
off to some distance higher up, I recommenced on a new

476 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

clump, which perhaps might not bo Luli, and, like a drowning
man catching at his last opportunity, I gathered with a will,
unhindered for a long time ; and it was not till I had another
great pile heaped up on the ground that their excitement and
superstitious fears became too marked to be longer disregarded.
Luckily, the thick mist which had been resting on the moun-
tain-tops all the morning came down in a heavy shower of rain,
and gave me a good excuse to return to quarters, with my
trophies a five-men's load, without appearing to have recog-
nised that I had been offending. It was useless to attempt to
force an ascent to the top ; there would have been an outbreak,
for the crest of the mountain was evidently one of their most
sacred spots. What I had already done excited them greatly.

The rain that fell cleared off with it the mist, and revealed
from our hio-h vantage-ground a magnificent view of the
country, both to the south and to the north — especially to the
north, as far as the islands of Kambing, ^Yetter and Allor, —
which was of itself worth the long climb from Samoro's guarda.

The careful arranging and packing of each species in
sejDarate bundles of cool banana-leaves, convenient for the
seven or eight porters to transport, took a long time, so that it
was late in the afternoon when we mounted for our return
journey. If our ascent in broad daylight round the face of the
Buarahu valley was eerie, it was foolhardy when, by the time
we retraced our steps, it was so dark that we could not see a
single foot of the Avay. I throw my horse's roins on its neck
and trusted to my general good-fortune ; and it was really
with no affected thankfulness that I embraced the neck of my
sure-footed black steed, when I leajoed down safely on the
little flat plateau of Manulu homestead. Here after a deal of
boisterous shouting to the inhabitants to awake — they seemed
to sleep with the soundness of the dead— on the part of the
Rajah's son, in whose harangue the most intelligible word to
me was the vigorous use of Biabo, an old man the only male
in the place, made his appearance. Finding the quality of
his guests, he was at once all alacrity as far as it was jiossible
for a Timorese to be, and proceeded to rouse the womankind to
prejDare for us something to eat, and a place to pass the night
in. A kid and some Indian corn supplied the first, and for
sleeping-quarters we were actually installed in a Luli hut,

IN TIMOR. ^11

from which, however, the sacred weapons were most carefully
removed and at the owner's earnest request all our tobacco
was excluded. Notwithstanding my sore disappointment that
I had not set foot on the highest peak of Sobale, I slept with
my head on my saddle the sleep of the contented, for I had
gathered rare plants enough to delight any botanist's heart.

At five o'clock in the evening of the next day I reached our
old quarters, but it was the early morning hours before all the
plants were, under torch- and lamp-light, safely put away in
botanical paper and placed over the fire of the drying-house,
in attending to which and turning the bundles several men
were employed all through the night. Before eleven o'clock
in the forenoon they were dry enough to carry safely to
Manuleo, my next station, where they would be again placed
over the camp fire.

Retracing our steps, as if to Sobale, we descended to the
right into and across the Buarahu river, ascending to Manuleo
— 4000 feet above the sea — through a rich grassy landscape
in which thousands of sheep ought to have been pasturing,
were a shepherd's not too peaceful a calling to be attracted to
a region where keros might be a possible feature of their
fields. Such a warning pole raised its ghastly arms against
the sky before us. It was surmounted this time with the
veritable head of a thief cau2:ht in the act of abductinof a
horse, whose skull seemed to mock with its grinning line
of teeth, its abductor's, to which it was joined by the halter
which in former time encircled its neck. It does seem a sin-
gular custom for the owner to sacrifice his stolen horse the
moment it is recovered, to add to his retribution of the thief.
A horse once stolen is gone for good, it would seem.
32

478 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

CHAPTER y.

RETURN TO EUROPE.

Bad news from Dilly — Start thither — Camp in the opeia — Bees — Laclo river —
Fajah's of Laicor — The Queen of Laclo — A hot ride — Geological note —
Matu — Metinaru — Salt marshes — A long night-ride — Return to Dilly
Palace — Extract from A.'s jonrnal — Return to Fatnnaba — Fevers — Decide
to return to Europe — Surprised by the arrival of steamer — Regretful
de]mrtui'e from Fatunaba — Revisit Banda and Amboina — Menado — :A
lucky accident — Batavia — Krakatoa — Home.

Next morning, just as we had set out, we were hailed from a
neighbouring height by a man whom I made out to be in
military uniform. On coming up, he informed me that he had
been trying to overtake us for many days, and delivered to me
letters from the Government Secretary (Senhor Bento da
Franpa) to say that Mrs. Forbes was very ill, and urging my
immediate return to the Palace whither she had been con-
veyed from Fatunaba. As the route I was following was the
nearest, I could gain time only by making forced marches.
Descending by an undulating route to the Vebirah river, we
reached the first level ground traversed in our journey — a
plateau clothed with gum-trees parallel to and sloping gently
with the course of the river, and about one hundred feet above its
channel. In being entirely composed of a perfectly horizontal
mass of sand and small pebbles, embedding strata of crystalline
sandstone which protruded through it at a high angle, its
geological features were identical with what I have described
as seen in the Samoro and other rivers I had crossed.

A little before sunset, after a march of ten hours broken by
a halt of only thirty minutes, we camped on a grassy spot on
the bank, in little extemporised grass huts. During the brief
twilight after the sun had disappeared, the air for some twenty
minutes was suddenly filled with the hum of bees {Ajns dorsata),
as if a swarm had alighted among the flowers of the Gum=

IN TIMOB. 479

trees. Just before daybreak while it is still dusk, the morn-
ing air is in a similar manner inundated with their noisy hum.
This singular habit of these bees, in feeding in the sunless
hours of the morning and evening, I was totally unaware
of till I came to live at Fatunaba, where close to our door
a grove of these trees grew. In the evenings the Melaleuca
certainly becomes more fragrant than it is at midday ; but I
could not ascertain, what would be very interesting to know, if
its flowers exude their nectar, or shed their pollen more freely
late in the evening and early in the morning.

After a comfortable enough night, which favoured us by not
raining, we resumed our march before dawn. I was anxious
to start sooner, but my carriers refused to travel in the night
till " the three rajahs in pursuit of the seven maidens " had
set, and Eai-naromak (Venus) had risen some twenty degrees
above the horizon. Following the Yebirak we reached the bed
of the Sumasse, a river many hundred yards broad, running be-
tween vertical walls of shingly detritus some two hundred feet
high. Its channel gradually widened out into a broad shingly
expanse full of Tamarind trees, Acacias, Palms, and Cactus,
till it finally merged in that of tlie river Laclo (which I had
crossed far up at Sauo on the outward journey), over whose
broad tree-dotted estuarine plain, their united streams having
outrun their high shingly barriers, distributed their water in
rivulets, which near the headland of lUimanu debouched into
the sea at no great distance below where we turned our faces
back westward to ascend again the valley of the Laclo,

A little distance up the river's loft bank we came to the Rajah
of Laicor's, whose people were housed in the most miserable
dwellings we had seen — in low huts on the ground of a mere
thatched stockade of jialm-lcaf stems, with a platform or two
against the walls within to sleep on. The Rajah, an opium-
besotted individual, refused to help me with a change of
horses and men, but I compelled him much against his will,
to supply our whole company witli tlio breakfast — of pig-flesh,
rice, Indian com, and fresh-drawn palm-wine — which we were so
much in need of, it being then nearly ten o'clock, and none of
us had eaten since the previous evening. The headquarters of
the Rajah of Laclo were fortunately quite near on the other
side of the river, and thither we proceeded, and for the first

480 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

time found some signs of state and of a more advanced civili-
sation. I found liere a large Catholic church, which on all
religious days, I was told, was very well attended. The entire
population of the kingdom professed Christianity ; and the
outward indications of general advancement over their neigh-
bours was apparent ; but I cannot say that in individual cha-
racteristics I observed much improvement. The missionaries
of the Eoman Catholic, perhaps more than those of any other,
Church deserve the highest praise for their great self-abnega-
tion and for their persistence in seeking out the most dis-
couraging spots of the globe, where their simple life and
fraternal interest in the concerns of the native, have exercised
a powerful civilising effect.

The present ruler being a female, all business was trans-
acted on her behalf at the palace-guarda, a strong, neat,
wooden building near the royal enclosure, in which a high
official was always in attendance in command of an armed
guard to keep watch over the regalia and treasure stored there,
as well as over the prisoners confined in an adjoining build-
ins:. These miserable creatures, however, had little chance
of escaping from the rough hurdles on which they were con-
demned to lie, with their feet fast in the stocks, and their
necks through a hole in a great log of wood too heavy to be
easily moved. Many of them had several months of their
punishment still to work oif, but for what crimes they w^ere
suffering I could not discover.

On my arrival. I immediately sent my letters to "Her
Majesty," requesting to be furnished at once with fresh horses
and a guide, to continue my journey to Dilly, which she
courteously promised should be ready for me at daybreak. It
would have been too literal an interpretation of her promise
to have expected to get away at that hour. At ten o'clock,'
however, the horse and guide arrived, and I started at once,
leaving my impedimenta to follow behind, in charge as usual
of an official of her kingdom and of my faithful and intel-
ligent companions, the Hindu officer and corporal, without
whom as representing the Government, my journey into the
interior would have been an absolute impossibility.

The broad channel, first of the Laclo river and then of its
tributary the Liguani, formed a magnificent highway, along

IN TIMOR. 481

which I passed westward at a steady pace, under a thermometer
marking 110^ in the sun and 92^ in the shade, between low
undulating hills clothed with a shrubbery of Zizyphus Jn-
juha, and entirely composed of horizontal beds of shinaly
detritus, till at four o'clock I struck oif to the right up an
abrupt rise of 1500 feet by a path studded with crystalline
calcareous rocks and boulders with a flinty clink, rounded
by attrition and perforated with holes and crevices like coral
blocks, bored by mollusca and sponges, which had been raised
up out of the sea. Strange to say, on the descent of the
northern slope, not a single calcareous block or stone was to
be seen anywhere.

As we commenced this descent, which was quite steep and
precipitous, in the fair way of the path we came on a little
mound which they called Matu, round both sides of which the
road diverged. Each native with me gathered some leaves or
a twig from a tree and laid it on the mound, "to ensure a
safe descent." On the trees near by were hung up various
articles — cigarettes, cois, little cigarette cases, and leaves in
which rice had been carried, and stumps of Indian corn heads.
I have recorded above almost the same custom in Sumatra,
where, on a large block of stone by the side of a forest path
something was offered by every passer-by for " luck." A
parallel * exists at this day in Dauphine, where every passer-
by throws into a certain chasm a little stone as an offering
to the mountain spirit ; and I believe the custom is not
unknown in our own country.

Reaching Metinaru long after sunset I halted to rest
my horse, for the first time since starting. Resuming the
march after two hours, I puslied on westward along the sea-
shore, through a long stretch of salt-marshes, which in the
starlight looked like snow-fields. Near Hera the flat sliore-
lands are barred by the spurs of the hills which run out into
the sea there to form that high headland ; and, looking back on
that dark night's ride, it seems marvellous how we surmounte<l
without accident their rocky spurs, where the path was
often interrupted by perpendicular steps many feet in height,
down which, followed by my horse, I scrambled, more by
the sense of touch than by that of sight. At daybreak I

* Waitz, 'Anthropology,' p. 321.

482 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

gained the last height, looking down on Dilly and the familiar
island-dotted scene, and reached the Palace at eight o'clock,
where I was thankful to find A. amid our kind friends much
recovered, but showing in her emaciated figure how severe her
sufferings had been. When the trying strain she was exposed
to and her terrible position and privations are realised, it is
surprising not that she at last broke down, but that she bore
up so long and so bravely. From her journal, which she had
struggled to keep, I have extracted a few entries, commencing
some days after my departure.

" How exceedingly still it is ! Birds now come and perch
on the very rail of the verandah — lovely little things which we
could get only a glimpse of before ; and in the near vicinity
the Gamut-bird practises its notes, to whose clear crescendo I
listen with rapt attention. Towards evening I look, eagerly
even, for my little woman. The first time I f aw her she was
sitting under the sloping roof of her hut, devouring an unripe
mango, and I stayed to look twice to be sure that she was
really human. And this is my sole companion, for whose
return I long ! I am trying to pick up from her some words
of her language ; in exchange I was going to teach her
civilised ways. Feeling too weak to brush my hair, and
thinking it would be delightful to have again that little
attention, I showed her how I wished it done — by quick, firm
strokes. She nodded assent, and took the brush ; but, alas for
my hopes — she vigorously imitated my action — with the back
of the brush ! "

[Other visitors than birds came about her dwelling for]
"2V wild-looking man from the mountains came past, and,
evidently struck by the novel-looking hut, with its appurte-
nances of civilisation and its white inhabitant, he stayed to
satisfy his curiosity, and, after going round to look at every-
thing, he lay down on the verandah to stare at me " ; [and] *' last
evening at sundown my quiet was disturbed by the advent of
a number of mountain men, who, after coolly monoj^olising my
fireplace to roast their supper of maize at, spread themselves to
sleep on my verandah. It was gorgeous moonlight ; and, as I
was very w'akeful and restless, I rose to look at the group in
deep sleep around me. What a very strange exj)erience for an
unprotected woman, in a doorless hut, on a lonely hillside, thus

IX TIMOB. 483

surrounded by a number of semi-savages ! I have been trying
to occupy myself constantly to divert me from the loneliness
01 my situation, but I am often helpless from fever."

'Oly nights quite sleepless, I lie and listen for the return
of the thieves " [who had entered and robbed the house, and had
a second time in the middle of the night returned, decamp-
ing, however, on A.'s calling out, and who, had she dared to
oppose them, would not have scrupled to put it beyond her
power to turn informant. When writing to me in the interior,
with rare self-denial she restrained from telling me the state
of affairs at FatunabaJ, " and am consequently daily more and
more attacked with fever ; but I must make an effort to see to
the fire in the drying-house, where the herbarium arriving from
the interior is deposited." [After a considerable break :] " Long
bout of fever : unable to do more than sit on the verandah ;
the silence is most oppressive ; my old woman is getting tired
of her duty, and forgets to come to me. I dare not expre^rS
displeasure when she does come, lest she desert me utterly,
I carefully concealed from H. all mention of my loneliness and
of the old woman's defalcations, as it is of the greatest import-
ance that his mind should be free from anxiety on my account ;
but perhaps it had been wiser to tell him ; for I feel very ill,
and it is only tlie thought that these rare plants must be tended
that keeps me on foot."

[After another long break :] " At the point where my journal
is discontinued I quite succumbed to what was as much
nervous as malarial fever ; day after day attacks came on with
increasing force, while my powers to help myself became
decreased. The old woman at last would not come near me ;
by signs and much talking she indicated that she would be
tabooed by her own people if she stayed by a sick person."
[She doubtless feared that she might be thought a Swangi or
Disease-producer.] " I had then to fall back entirely on myself,
as she would not carry any message for me to Dilly. Fortu-
nately there was a store of water in our largo stone tank, and
my small paraflin-stove was full of oil. In a stronger hour I
dragged some boxes in front of my bed, and placed within reach
rice, salt and some vessels. Eggs in abundance must have
been within a few hundred yards of me in nests among the
grass, to which I had traced our few fowls, but I dared not ven-

484 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

ture so far in the morning — the only time I had a little strength
— in the very high winds that prevailed. It is one phase of
these fevers that when an attack has passed a great faintness
comes on, which even a mouthful of food or drink will relieve.
I never fully realised the boon of sick-room attentions till I had
to rouse myself at these faint moments to cook the only available
food I could take. — rice-water. But the oil in my small lamp at
last was done, and I was unable to go to the store to refill it.
For some days I must have been delirious ; during the nights I
tossed in my sweat-soaked garments, sometimes able to reach
out for dry ones, sometimes not ; but, more than from all the
discomfort and weakness, I suffered from the terrible stillness.
Undisturbed, the rats played in wild riot through my hut during
the day, and in the night gnawed everything gnawable — some-
times they even attempted to penetrate inside my mosquito
curtains, within which I had dragged my store of rice. So
ferocious were they that I saw them seize a parrot on a tree
which overshadowed the hut, which they brought to the
verandah and devoured there, while the feathers scattered in
the wind. I shuddered to think how H. would find me if I
should die before he returned or help should come. A passinir
lad — whom I sighted through the bamboo slits of the hut — I
called to me, bribing him by coin after coin to carry a note to
the Palace begging for medicine and aid. Just as he at last
consented, after much dubitation, and the most urgent
entreaty on my part, it began to rain [rain is always abhorred
by the natives], which made him hesitate in his purpose — a
terrible moment for me ; but, espying my open parasol in a
corner, he seized it and marched off. I don't know whether my
hilarity in my utter prostration was more at the ludicrous figure
he cut, his only wettable garment being his loin-cloth, or in
hysterical and delighted anticipation of obtaining help at last."
As good fortune would have it, this lad met a messenger
from Madame da Franga, who had become anxious at A.'s long
silence, on his way to inquire for her. The news of her state
brought at once the doctor and a friend who instantly re-
turned for an ambulance. Though the afternoon was far gone
before it arrived the descent was at once begun. The carriers
struggled on while daylight lasted — one short hour; then,
owing to the steepness of the road and the darkness of the

IN TIMOR. 485

night, they refused to carry longer, when she had to walk.
After a terrible journey of five hours duration she reached
the sympathy and comforts of the Palace — kindnesses which
will be treasured by us both as long as we live.

We returned at once to our home at Fatunaba, whose beauty
was as fresh to us as ever, and it was impossible not to feel that
there could be no fairer spot for a dwelling. I had sufficient to
occupy me for several days in arranging the herbarium already
in the drying-house, and when three days later, the giant pack-
ages collected between Saluki and Laclo arrived I had work for

several weeks. We had not long settled when A was ae:ain

laid down with a most violent type of fever which then seemed
to be specially epidemic in Dilly, and to which one of the
Governor's sons succumbed in a sudden paroxysm. As these
attacks, notwithstanding all the remedies tried, daily became
more severe, we decided that as I had accomplished all that was
possible in Timor, and as nothing in the way of fitting out for
my next journey to the high mountains of South-Eastern Xew
Guinea could be done in Dilly, our wisest course was to return
to Europe by the mail due about the 3rd of June.

On the 30th of ]\[ay, on coming out at daylight into the
verandah, I was thunderstruck to see the mail steaming into
the harbour — wlien there was not half of our baggage packed,
and all the porters to find. Ilurrying down to Dilly, I learned
that there would be no other steamer for five weeks, but that
The Lansherge would remain till next evening. Through
Senhor Albino's kind aid I obtained a company of men in
charge of a sergeant, and, hastening back to Fatunaba, packed
up my collections and such articles as we most valued, as it
was evident that all our belongings could not possibly be
transported in the short time at our disposal. The Timorese
carriers and A.'s old ape-like woman — though s'Jio did not
deserve it — were made frantically happy by rewards of house-
hold gear and paraphernalia, plates, spoons, knives, cooking
utensils, old meat-tins, and gifts of such trade articles as
mirrors, beads, and kerchiefs, as had escaped the notice of
the thieves.

We were forced to leave behind us the whole rude furnish-
ings of the house — stoves, lamps, water-tanks, cans of petro-
leum, stools, gunpowder and shot, and a considerable store

486 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS.

of kanipa, or gin, Avith filthy spirits of wine in bottles of
the same shape. We have often pictured to ourselves the
astonished eyes and the jubilant dance of the first Timorese
who, passing by, should find the deserted hut, and its Eldorado
of kanipa and the rest, especially if he commenced with the
snake-tinctured spirits of wine — all his for the appropriating !

By five o'clock in the evening the last porter's load dis-
appeared round the elbow of the hill ; but we remained behind
for a little to take a last sorrowful farewell of the sweet spot
in which we had spent so many days of privation and sickness
hard enough to bear while they lasted, but which have long-
been quite forgotten, while the sujDreme happiness we ex-
j^erienced in our work together and the surpassing beauty
of the scene on which we daily looked, will remain among
our most treasured reminiscences as long as memory lasts.
As it was impossible to obtain sufficient porters to carry A.
the long irksome descent had to be accomplished on foot,
painfully, but with uncomplaining and resigned cheerfulness,
for was it not for the last time ? By nine o'clock we stepped
on board. Owing to the fall of a horse baggage and all, down
a steep slope, and the breakdown and running away of some
of the porters, it was only at sundown of next day that the
last of our baggage was safely shipped. By a hapj^y coinci-
dence the Governor and his family — fewer by two, and wofully
altered by sickness — were again our fellow-passengers on their
way back to Europe.

In the early morning of the 1st of June we steamed away for

Batavia via Amboina, and a few hours later our hut on the

Fatunaba rocks, glinting in the morning sun, disappeared below

the horizon. After one more day under the nutmeg arbours of

Banda, and a farew ell visit to our friend's Machik in Amboina,

we reached Menado on the 10th, where we were delayed by

rough weather. " It's an ill wind that blows nobody good."

In the gale our steamer dragged her anchor, which had to be

hauled in, and when it appeared it brought with it three other

anchors, where,

" On an island's Aviuding shore,

There for ages long they lay,

At the bottom of a bay,"

each more foul than the other, with hydroid Zoophytes, Sponges

488 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS.

and Crustacea, which were specially handed over to me and
carefully bottled. A list of them is given in the Appendix.

Off the north-west cape of Celebes, we passed between the
mainland and a broad slice of land, with small trees and stumps
erect on it, drifting in a north-easterly direction. After
short calls at Macassar, at Ampanam in Lombock, and at
Baleling in Bali, we reached Surabaya on the 2ord of the
month. Here we had with deep regret at last to say good-bye
to the Da Franpa family, to whom we had been indebted for the
greatest possible official and private kindnesses, as it was
necessary for us to trans-ship for Batavia, where we arrived five
days later.

We had nine days to spare before the arrival from Brisbane
of the mail for Europe. These were spent in the delicious
and salubrious air of Buitenzorg, in packing up my bulky
herbarium, and in the renewing of many old friendships.

On July 9th we sailed in the British India Company's
mail steamer Quetta — at last homeward bound. At sundown
we dropped our pilot at Anjer sleeping peacefully among its
cocoa-nut palms, and a few hours later passed the blazing crater
of Krakatoa — scenes well known and familiar to me, of which I
retain many most pleasing memories ; but it was the last look
that was ever to be possible to me ; for, ere little more than a
month had passed, both were doomed to destruction.

A study of the small maps on the preceding page will con-
vey some idea of the violence of the eruption, from the changes
that have resulted in the geography of the spot.

On the 13th of August the Quetta reached Plymouth, and on
the 14th we arrived in London, transported in 75 days from
the make-shifts, discomforts, and rough contrivances of a rude
hut among half-naked savages, to all the elegances of a great
London hotel, with its fashionable crowd, a contrast — to me
certainly — too great to be comfortable or pleasant for some time
at least. I realised that I was more than half a barbarian, to
whom the restraints of civilisation had become irksome, and
who would have rejoiced to have been at once spirited back
again to his swarthy friends in the Eastern Archipelago.

APPEXDIX TO PAET YI.

I. — Xames of the MONTHS in Timor.

(Saluki) Bibi^u^n.

Funu

Falii

Karu

Fotan

Madauk
Wani

Ihi .. .

Mfuhii loot
Mtulai kith

In this month (corresponding
to abont our December) they
plant the vater, or Indian
com, and sow the dry ground
rice.

Clear grass out from among tiie
vater and rice.

" Great month.' Indian corn
is in flower. Heavy rains
and all rivers flooded.

The name of the month pro-
bably a corruption of the
IMaliiy Potoncj, the cutting or
harvest montli. In it they
gather in the ripe Indian
corn, and give a great oifer-
ing to the Luli, a sort of
Harvest Thanksgiving, the
Indian corn being their stajile
food.

Harvest dry rice fields.

Honey and wa.\ harvest.

Possibly a corruption of TJii
or Hweet potnt/), which crop
in this month is dug up and
harvested.

Month of fogs and heavy rains
from the sta.

Less rain ; little possible to be
done tiiese two months.

Samoro.

Leet ali

Fahi
Naru

Tora

Madauk ..
Wani
Uhi bout . .

TJlii kiik . .
Lakuhutik

Same operations.

Same operations.
Same operations.

Same operations.

Same operations.
Same operations.
Same operations.

Same operations.
Same operations.

490

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Lalcuhutik
hoot

Lakuhutik
Mili

Led

(Suluki) Bibi9U9u.

Still showery

Very hot. In this month, after
great offerino; to the LulL
starch is made for gold, and
cintiimed only during this
month.

Hot month. Grass is burned,
and preparations made for
planting the Indian corn.

Samoro.

Same operations.
Same operatiods.

Same operations.

There are thus twelve months, which they reckon by moons, in their years.
How many days there are in a moon they did not seem to know, for the number
was variously give as sixteen to thirty-five

II. — Dialects spoken in Eastern Timor.

In the different districts of Timor, different dialects (or (?) languages) are
found to be spoken. The following is a list of the names of those said to be
spoken in the region trr.versed by me, with the districts in which they are
spoken : —

Mamhia or Kaladi . .

Tetu (more or less the
lingua franca of E.
Timor)

Idate ..

Lalcale

Mauhenke

Veke ..

Vaiqueno

Galolo

Marai

Manohai

Kemak

Tociulade

Dagada

Macassai

Naubete

Meadik

Turscain ; Motael ; Hermera ; Kaimauk ; Hera ;

Laicor.
Barique' ; Bibi^u^u ; Alias ; Suai ; Hera ; Saluki ;

Laclubar ; Bailobo ; Cotubaba.

Cairui; Laclubar; Mantutu ; Viqueque.
Bibi9U9u; Kimauk ; Vemasse ; Barique; Alius;

Samoro.
T.alea; Vemasse; Mantutu; Fatumarto; Vinilale.
Bailobo.
Cova ; Suai.
Hera ; Laculo ; Motaiil ; Lalea ; Mantutu ; Luga ;

Vemasse.
Manufahi ; Eameau ; Rolule.
Alias; Samoro; Tituluiu; Turscain.
Bailobo; Cora; Sauir ; Cutobab.i ; Kailakuk; At-

tesabe ; Bnibau ; Diribate ; Lameian ; Maheibo.
Boibau ; Liqui9 1 ; Maubara.
Lalea ; Faturo ; Saraii.
Lug.i ; Vemasse.
Luca.
Faturo ; Luga ; Sarau.

IN TIMOR.

491

III. — Vocahulary of three of the above dialects, the Kaladi, the Tetu,
and the Lakale : —

accuser

ache

acquaint

add

advance

afraid

ajred

all

allow

angry

animal

ankle

ant

arm

ashes

ask

assert

attack

avenge

back
backloQo

bad

bag
bamboo

banana
banish

bark

bat

batlie

battle

beak

beard

beat (dium)

beeswax

begin

belieaJ

behind

belly

beneath

bid

big

bird

birth

bite

black

blade

bleat

blind

Kaladi.

Tetu.

Lakale.

matenek

moras

banas

fohatene

autada

tantanbarak

laiiluk

kamtauk

amtauk

katuas

niaitu

hothotu

tilirlama

holiuk

..

hirus

bisemirus \ui

ikudakarau
\kudawarak

• •

, ,

aifuku

,,

nehek

nehek

, ,

lima

aulimak

, ,

aikesa

waiahu

..

husu

,,

suiung

, ,

labelle halistori

(loronseluk

**

(ossi sehere'

..

navarik|
(nurak /

tiukwano.

,,

kotuk

kotidi

kotuk

• •

( istori 1
\ pegte'j

istori

, ,

kohe

^^

au ; fafulu (small

bamboo)

^^

hudi

1 distcrra (Portug.)
1 bahu

••

faikulit (tree)
\asungeri (dog)

" '

niki

heris

liiis

hotudar

, ,

niunu

,.

hassa rahun

,,

lierd

,,

lilin

.,

foinhala

.,

taulu

,.

kotuk

,.

kabu

..

karaik

akardebum

,.

orde (Portug.)

..

biiot

am tun

maiiufoik

mauliui

foinmoris

, ,

tata

^,

metang

metang

,.

tudik-ici

,,

heme'

,.

rnata lahare

talk re

492

A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Kaladi.

Tetu.

Lakale,

blood

ran

ran

blue

hena metan

busuk

boar

^,

fuhi aman

boat

rokik

body

ici lolong

boifing water

bemanas

bold

totor

bondman

atta

bone

, ,

riu

riu

bore

,.

halukuak

bow

••

rama

arrow = rama-ici

boy

lavarik

bracelet

..

puti lima

branch (of tree)

..

ailiman

brave

("oswai
1 Asuwai

bread

.,

morteng

breast

,,

hiris mat.i

hiris mata

breatlie

ausuhu

bridge

aileteto

bring

••

hodi

hodi mai = bring
here

odi ; odi ma (b. here).

brother

.,

maluk

brother-hi-law

ria

broad

naruk

narong

buffalo

kaiau

build

lialu

burial

taman mati

burn

ahi ha

butterfly

,.

babeba

kabeba

button

faro

buy

tlosa

calabash

ohukunua

call

bolu

atarkau

carry

foti taukabas

lalui itabas

cat

busa

catch

lako

lakon

chair

kadera (Portug.)

chalk

ahu

cheer

lorsang

lorsang

child

feto kiik ; older,
feto boot

chin

, ,

hassa

ita hassar

clay

tahu

dark

raikalan

cloth

tais

lusa

cloud

, ,

aibabu

club

, ,

aidona

jiadassi teman

coat

faru

cocoa-nut

nu

cofBn

aibalu

aivahi

cold

, ,

maliri

muruk

colour

, ,

metang

comb

..

satoit

come

"•

mai

(a) e you coming ? =
tainte he?

comet

«•

kilat lololeting

lorolcting saki

IN

TIMOR.

493

Kaladi.

Tetu.

Lakale.

to cook

tengotu

cough

mear

mear

country

uiki

niki

couragei

maumetang

cradle

boi

cry

lanis (as a child)

sero

curl

futufriuk

leokulu

cut

ta

lai

natessi

dance

iinnbidu

atarlebidu

dark

raikalau

dauglittr

hausafeto

day

loron

k'long

dead

.,

mate'

atarmate

.leaf

telundiuk

. tilarkadiuk

dear

foleng tnda

holing kas

deep

raikuak

larakura

depart

,.

baona

tisoi

desire

, ,

haukakara

ilew

niahobo

mohowek

difficult

^,

kole

kole

distant

riiok

lamarong

dog

asu

asu

door

hodomata

dream

mchi

steu mehi

drink

Hmn

hemu

tnu

drown

motahodi

loonodi

drum

baba

drunk

lauu

a tar lanu

dry

maranona .

nangbut

dumb

pakonteng

misi minis

eagle

makikit

ear

tehi

tilar

enrthquake

rainagtoko

lamaliklain

early

dadelsasang

busia

east

loro sait

Iclo taibutak

eclipse

ahi liafulan

egg

mantelu

mantelor

elbow

sikruohan

itsiur

empty

raamuk

maue

enough

toona

atarmasoi

equal

hanessandeli

hauessansoi

evening •.,';•

— • .

lor kraik

cxpeclorato

kaubeng

alxrloldk

eye

mata

ilu matar

f-ice

oi

fall

^ ,

monu

far

rook

lamarong

father

ama

itamar

fast

lalais

fat

bokur

boih"

fatiguo

kole

feather

niauufulu

mauuhnlu

fever

, ,

isimanas

atar Iclongpanas

iinger

, ,

lima fiiau

laman huan ici

firo

ahi

Ash

ikan

ikan

flap

kokoieik

kokoreik

flesh

, ,

nai'ui

flower

^ ,

aifuan

tly

..

hilar

lalar

33

494

A NATURALIST'S WATERINGS

Kaladi.

Totu.

Lakale.

follow

tuir

loretuir aunia

foot

aitanlar.i

iwetanalala

Jbrehead

retos

itretos

forget

halulia

itnlehaluasoi

fragraut

^,

inori

lalcmori

friend

••

lljeluk (high)j
\nai (low) /

itu pelur

froth

..

kisal

kisal

fruit

..

aifuan

aihuak

frv

sona

tena

full

,,

nokonu

penu

fur

.,

fulu

bisilita

garden

tcs

ginger

kinur

give

.,

foeng

hemuri

goat

,,

bibi

bibi

go away

..

ba

uri; lamo

gold, coined

dise

gold, dust

inuiak

good

dipk

ia

grass

doiit

duiit

luiit

grave

rate'

airie = polo with
horns

rate

>jreen

netahau modok

matak

mat;ik

gun

kilat

kilat

gunpowder

kilat rahun

kilat rahun

Jiair

fu

hand up

lolo

hit

konno

hold (fast)

..

kair lialrosa

hot

manas

house

nriia

how many?

heera

hunger

hamluhim.i

Indian corn

batai

knife

taha ; tudik

large

boLut

leads (shot)

milissa

leaf; leaves

katemu; airaha

lightning

railaka

lony;

naruk

naruk

mango

has

mare

kuda ina

mat

viti

viti

me

hau

milk

susu

mountain

lofo

nephew

..

tin

night

..

raikalau

pig

pahi

fahi

post (pillar)

airing

cross-beams to l'ol(l\iaj.jis
up roof . . j

gable- posts

kakukui

rain

udan

rat

mama

red

hena

rice

fos

rice (in husk)

hari-raean

IN TIMOE.

495

Kalali.

sea

shut

siri (for chewing)

sleep

small

sneeze

tatoo

thumb

thunder

toe

toe, grreat

verandah (flo^l•)

water

well, arj vou?

west

wet

white
wood

tassi

malus
toba

Tetu.
tassi
taka
malus

kiiki

kus

hedik

lima fr.an biJot

raitarutu

aifuaii kiiki

aifuau boot

hadak

be

sien diak

lore mauu

Jsedau niara

(sematuk

hena mit'.n

Lakak

G

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

20

21

2 '

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

101

110

120

150

1000

Totu.

ida

rtia

loin

haiit

lima

ne

hitti

Widu

sia

sanulii

sauulu risin ida
„ „ rua

„ „ tolu

ruauulu

Kaladi.

Lakale.

Firaku.

rcsiu ida
„ lua

tolanulu

haatanulu

limanulu

iieauulu

hitariulu

walanulu

sianulu

atu si da

rauulu
tolulu

rua

Ifilai

tela

lolitu

aiit

phar

lima

lima

ne

tahu

hitu

fitu

walu

palu

sii

siba

sakulu

rutu

„ resin isa

ruanulu

rudu lolai

rudu lolitu

atu sisa

resin ida
^anulu
ruanulu
lunanulu

rihuQ ida

496 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

IV, — On a new species of CoLEorTERA of the famihi CF.TOXllDiE, from
E. Timor. By Oliver E. Janson, M.E.S.

ClINTERIA FORBESI, SJ). 710V.

Above (lull black with pa'e oclireous-yel'ow si^ots. Hoad coarsely
imnctured, slightly shining at the sides, clypeus moderately emai'ginate
at the ajiex, the convex centre and elevated margins pale ochreous.
Thorax sparsely but rather coarsely i:»unctured ; a sub-quadrate sjwt at
the anterior angles, an elongate one on each side behind, and two spots
on the disk. Elytra depressed, with a sutural and several discal rows
of indistinct semi-circular punctures; a large triangular patch before
the middle, a bi-lobed lateral spot, a small elongate one near the suture,
and a large marginal spot on the apex. Pygidium with coarse inter-
rupted transverse stride and a small spot on each side. Under-side and
legs shining black, punctate, strigose and with sfarse brown i^ubescence;
epimera aliove, sides of sternum and abdomen with pale ochreous spots;
mesosterual process long, obtuse and slightly oblique. Length, 13 mm.
Timor.

This elegant species appears to be most nearly allied to C. Jiageni, Eits.

V. — A List of the organisms found adhering to three anchors dredged up
from the Bay of Meuado, Celebes. By S. 0. EiDLEY, M.A., F.L.S., and
J. J. QuELCH, B.Sc, F.Z.S, of the British Museum.

A. Corcds.

Dendrophyllia, sp. nov.

Phyllangia papiiensis, Stud. Very abundant. For a valuable jiaper,
liy Mr. 8. O. Eidley, On mnie dructn.res liable to variation, in the
suh-fumih/ Astrangiaccx (Madrepnraria), founded on the examina-
tion of this specimen, see Journal Liu. Soc. vol. xvii. 1884, p. 359,
et seqq. ; plates. (H. O. F.)

■ B. Sponges.

Tuba iiiuricina, Lam.
Pachyclialina sp.
Euspongia sp.

C. Polyzoa — Cheilostomata.

^tia angunia, L.

]\Iicropoi-elIa ciliata. Pall., vur. personata, Bnak
Lepralia partus.), Espr.
Schizojiorella paisevalii, And.
Scliizotheca fissa, Busl:
Smithia landsborovi, Jolinst.
Cellepora larreyi, And.
sp. indeterm.
cycddstomata.
Crissia holdsworthii. Busl:.

etenostomata.

sp. (apparently uewj.

D. Ilijdrozoa — Hydroida.

Tuhularia iudivisa, L.

rugosa, D'Orh.
Aglaopheiaia pliiliprana, Kirch.
laxa, Allntan.

IN TIMOR. 497

VI. — Prodomus Flor^ Timorensis ; compiled in the Botanical Department
of the British Museum.

The flora of Timor is one of great interest, but only very limited
herbaria exist of it. In preparing the following sketch of the chief
collections made in the island I am greatly indebted for assistance to
Mr. H. N. Eidley.

. In 1639-1700 Dampier visited the islands; the few jjlants he collected
there were deserilied by l{ay.

AVhen in 1787, the Bounty, under Captain Bligh, was conveying
bread-fruit trees from Otaheite to the "West Indies, the crew miitinied,
and the captain, together with David Nelson, botanist of the exi^edi-
tion, and nineteen others of the crew were cast adrift in an open boat,
near the Friendly Islands. They made their way (3600 miles) to Timor,
where Kelson died in I7t9. The plants he collected in the island are
in the British Museum.

In October 1792, Christopher Smith and James Wiles collected a
number of plants in Timor, on their way from Otaheite in the shij)
Providence, under Captain Bligh. They took also from Timor and other
^lalayan islands various useful jilants to introduce together with the
bread-fruit trees, into the "West Indies. The plants collected in this
expedition are also in the British Museum.

In 1803, IviEDLE, Sautier, and Guichenot, gardeners attached to
the expedition of the vessels Nuturaliste and Geogrnphe, under Captain
15audin, visited the island. The expedition started from France in
1801, and reached Timor in 1803. The plants were described by Do
Caisne in the Xouvelles Annales du Museum d'Histoire yatureUe, and are
preserved in the Ilerbarium Delessert and in the Paris, British, and Kew
]Museinns.

In April of the same year Egbert Brown stopped at the island for a
short time on his return from the Iter Australiense. He remained in
the neighbourhood of Coupang, "West Timor, and made a collection of
considerable extent, containing many jolants of extreme interest. These,
together with a manuscript list of their native names, are in the her-
barium of tlie British Museum, and a set is also in the Yit-nna herbarium
to which they were presented by Ferdinand Bauer, the companion of
Kobert Brown in his travels.

In the end of 1818, Gaudichaud visited Timor in the voyage of the
Uranic, and in the ' Voyage de TUranie,' chapter viii., gives an account
of the island and its products.

In 1818-1819, Captain King visited the island with Allan Cunning-
ham, who made a small but most interesting collection of jilants, which,
Avith the manuscript account of his travels, are preserS'ed in the British
!Mnscnm.

In 1822. Beinwardt returned to Europe with his collections, which
are in the Ley den Musenm.

In September 1825, Captain IXterrey in the voyage of the CoquiUe
visited Coujiang in West Timor.

In 1828, ZiPi'EL went in the expedition under Dr. Maklot in the Triton
and /ris, to the islands, and collected a number of plants, which are
preserved in the Ilerbarium Delessert, Paris.

In 1831, J. B. Spanoghe, the Dutch Kesident, made explorations in the
west of the island, and sent his collections to Holland. The jilants were
pulilished in Hooker's ' Companion to the Botanical Miecellauy,' vol. i^
and ' Linnjea/ vol. xv.

498 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Early in 1840, D'Urville touched at Coupang in the voyage of the
Astrolabe, and with Ho.mbron collected some plants.

In 1843, Captain Sir Everakd Home collected a few plants in Timor
on his way home from China.

Mr. A. E. Wallace, in his celebrated travels in the Archipelago,
resided in several parts of Timor, but though devoting himself almost
exclusively to the zoology of the island, he found time to make a small
collection of grasses, which are preserved in the Kew Herbarium.

Mr. J. E. I'eysmann devoted a long life to the botanical investigation
of the islands of both the Indo- and Austro-Malayan regions. In his col-
lecting tours on behalf of the Botanical Gardens, Buitenzorg, extending
over a perio;! of nearly half a century, from about 1830-1880, he visited
Timor on more than one occasion. His herbarium is preserved in the
Museums of both Leyden and Buitenzorg.

Mr. J. G. F. EiEDEL, at one time Dutch Eosident in Coupang, West
Timor, sent to the Botanical Museum in Dresden a collection of plants, of
which a small number were communicated in 187'J to the Kew Her-
barium by Dr. Meyer.

The Author's herbarium, from which the new species enumerated
below are described, was made in the eastern portion of the island, from
December 1882 to May 1883.

The various localities where collections were made, are given J.ere in
the order in which they were visited. A traverse survey was kept up
throughout the journey ; but, owing to the extreme inaccuracy in all
existing available maps of several of the initial points of observation on
which the rjst of the traverse depjcnds, it has been found impossible to
lay down my route. Only when a map rcjiresenting with accuracy the
various positions of the heights and capes of the neighbouring islands of
Kambing, Wetter, and AUor, has been made, can my geographical
observations be utilised.

1. Fatunaba Hills. — My camp was pitched at an elevation of 1700
feet on these hills, situated a few miles due south of Dilly, and collec-
tions made from Dec. 19, 1882, to lilarch 30, 18fc3. Excursions were made
all round the neighbourhood.

2. Erlura.— My camp, 30th March, 3475 feet above sea level; a long
day's march on my way to the interior from Fatunaba, situated with the
peak of lUimanu Cajje bearing N. 64° E. and the peak of Pulo Kambing
N. 13° W.

3. Fatete. — Halting-place on the 31st March, on the W. side of the
wide valley of the Komai.

4. LiGiDoiK. — Our halting-place on the 1st April, 3350 ft. on the other
side of the valley. Bv prismatic compass Fatete bore N. 45° W. ; Cape
lUimanu N. 44° E. and* Kabalaki peak W. 48° S.

5. Sauo. — Camp of April 2nd, in the vallev of the Wai Matang Kai-
mauk, 3200 ft., Turskain ],eak bearing S. 18° E.

6. TuRSK.\iN.— Cam]) from April 3rd to Cth, 4000 feet above the sea.
Situation: Li^idoik bearing N. 24° W. ; Pulo Kambing peak, N. 16° W. ;
Kabalaki peak, S. 47° W.

7. BiBinuyu, Eajah's of.— Camp 3000 feet, from April 6th to 22nd.
Situation. Kahalaki peak bearing S. 75° W. ; Luca Cape, S. 85° E. ;
Mount Sobale, N. 40° E.

8. Saluki, in the kingdom of BibicuQU.— 3400 ft. April 22nd to 26th.
Situation: Kabalaki peak bearing S. 70° W. ; Barique Mount, E. 1° S.

9. Kailakuk, in the kingdom of Bibicncu.— 2100 ft. April 26th to 28th,
Situation : Kabalaki peak bearing W. 10° S. ; Mount Sobale, N. 3° W. ;
Mount Tahaolat, N. 78° W.

IN TIMOB. 499

10. Samoro.— April 28th to May 3i-d. (a) Rajah's of, 900 ft. Situation :
Mount Sohale bearing N. 63° W.; Barique Mount, S. 62^ E. (6) Sobale
Mount, 5000 ft. to 6000 ft. Situation: Cape Ulimanu bearing N. 6^
E. ; Mount Barique E. 35° S. ; Wetter Island summit N. 11° W.

11. Laclo. — A village not far inland from the mouth of the river of the
same name, near Cape Illimanu. I camped here on the 5th Maj'.

Note. — The numbers after a flant—for example: 3610, 7 — indicate the
number in my herharium., 3610, and the station, 7, tvhere the plant was
found.

POLYPETAL^, by J. BaiTTEN, F.L.S.

Ranunculace<e.

Clematis Leschenaultiana, DC.
biternata, DC.

Marjnollaeem.

Michclia Champaca. L.
velutiua, Bl. ?
Anonacese.

Uvaria timorensis, Bl.

glabra, Span.
Mitrephoia (?) divcrsifulia
Anona muricata, Dun.
Artabotrys odoratisgimus, Br.

Memspermacece.

Stephaiiia heinandifolia, Walp. (S. discolor, Walp.), 3610, 7 ; 3815, 10 b.

Anamirta Cocculus, W. & A. (A. populifolius, Miers)

Pachygoiie ovata, Miers.

Pericampylus incamis, Miers, 3G26, 4015, 7.

Meiiispermacea, 4014 (leaves ouly).

Cruciferx.

Sinapis timoiiaiia, DC. 3787, 9.

Capparidese.

Gynandiopsis pentaphylln, DC. 3773, 3939, 4054, 9.

Polaiiisia viscos:i, DC. 3747, pods adhere to everything and tl.us get

transported; 8.
Cadaba cappaioides, DC.
Capparis subcordata. Span.

trapeziflora. Span.

Mariana, Jarq.

dealbata, DC.

pubiflora, ])C.

nigricans. Span.

sepiaria, L.

elliptica, Sjian.

sp. (bud). 4021.
Violacew.

Viola Patriuii, DC. 3491, 6.

Iniiidimn enneaspermuni, Veid. "Timor?"

Alsudeia laacrophylla. Dene.

Bixineas.

Xylosma fragraiis, Dene.

Fittosporex.

Pittospoium timortnso, Bl

500 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

I'oltjgalen'.

"Polygala pcrsicariajfolia, DC. 3185, 2. 3887 a hoUyceii 10 aud U. 3044, 6.
rul'a, Span.
humilis. Span.

CarijophyUca;.

Dryiuaria cordata, L. 3910, Q,

FortulacesR.

Portulaca quadrifida, L.

Elalinex.

Elatino animannoides, W. & A.

Guttiferic.

Garcinia tiinorens's. Span. " Mild ignota," Miq.
Mesua ferrea, L.

Malvaceae.

Malva timoreiisis, DC.
Malvastruin luderale, Miq.

spicatum, A. Gr. (R. Browu.)
Sida cistiflora, Bl.
javensis, Cav.
humilid, W.
subcordata. Span.
rliombiColio, L. 4067, H.
paucifolia, DC.
acuta, L. 3549, 6.
retusi, L. 36G5, 7.
Abutilon asiaticimi, Don.

crispum, Don. (R. Brown.)
Guichenotianum, Dene.
timorense, Dene.
indicum, W. A A. 3886, U.'
graveoknp, W. & A. 4016, U,
Urena multifida, Cav. 3669, 7 ; E. BrowD, Coupang.
Malachra horrida, Miq.
Pavonia cernua, 3Itg,
Thespesia Lampas, Dah. 3438, 4010, 1.

papidnea.' Cat>.
Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. 3617, 7.
Kosa-sinensis. L.
timorensis. DC.
virgatus, Bl.
tubulosus, Cav.
Babdariffa, L.
vitifulius, L.

suratteiisis. L. 3817, 10 b.
imngeus, Eoxh. 3628,7. 3858 and 3^79, ]0 b.
radiatus, Cav. (fob it.tegr.) 3780, 9. 3879, iu part, 10 b.
ficulneus, L. (E. Brown, Coupang.)

Sterculiacet'e.

Heliclercs Isorn, L. 3420, 1. Flanks of bills, 1900 ft. clayey soil. 3799. 9.

Sterculia urceolnta, Sni. " Timor?"

Abroma fast,uos:i, Br.

Buettiieria liuccida. Span.

Melochia acutangula. Span. " Stirps dubia.'

Eiedleia tilirefolia, DC.

corchorifolia, DC.
Melhania incana, W. & A.

IN TIMOR. 501

Tiliaceie.

Gorchorus aculangiilus, Lam.

olitoriu^, L.
Triunifetta rotundifolia, Lam.

graveoleiis. Bl. :S705, 3908, 7.
aiigulata, Lam.

pseudo-angulata, />7. "Timor?"
sp. 3570, 6.
ihoniboidLa, Jacq. 4090.
Grewia tomentcsi, Juss. " Timor? "

multitlora, Juss. 3727, 8. ^'932, Q,
iuscquaViB, Bl. "Tiijior?"
coluiimnris, Sm. 3782, 9.
Elaiocarpus cvaneus, Linn.

paiviflorus. Span.

sp. (cf. E. livularis, VieilL). 3G77, 7.
Malpighiacca;.

Kvssoptery.^, sp. 3647, 7.

sp. 408G, 3758, 8.
nncrostem: I, Jhs8. "Timor? '
timoreusis, Bl.
Hiptage Madablota, Gaertu. 3917, 7.

Zygophijllece.

Tribulus terrcstiis, L., var. molucc.iuus. Bl.

Geraniacex.

Imputieiis Balsamina, L.

hirsuta, Steud. (Span.)

niiiiutifiora, Miq. „

sp. nov. Kew Horb.

platypetala, Lindl. 3503, 3922, between 5 and 6.
Geranium aifln.-, W. & A. 3818, 10 b. 3500, between 3 and 4.
Averrboa Cainmbola, L.

Bdimbi, L. (R. Brown.)
Oxflliscorniculata,L. 3488,1. 3507,6. 4027, 3958 a, 7.

Rutacex. :

Zantlioxylon alatum, Boxh., var. exstipulata. 3G53, 7. Z. timoriense.

Span.
Evodia lotifolia, T)C. 3G20, 7. 3851, 10 a.

sp. n.V 3870, 10 h.
Miciomelum pubescens. Bl. ?G12, 7. 3G97, 7.
Tiiphasia monopliylla, DC.

trifoliata, i»a
Glyco>mis pentapbylla, Culebr.
Blurraya exotica, L.

liejitaphylla. Span.
Cookia punctata, Betz.
Clau-ena excnvata, Burm.

(?) timorenbis, Eoem.
Citrus Limclta, Bisso.
Simaruhcx.

Harrisonia Brownii, yl. Juss.
Brucea glabratn, Bene.
Orlinacese.

Gompbia m:.gnolixfolia. Span. J ,. ^^jj^^,^ incognitiC," Miq.
Castela lasvigato, Zipp. \ o » a

L'urseraccx.

Canarium microciirpum, W.
Garuga floribunda, Dene.

502 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Meliae.ess.

Melia CandoUci, Jam.
Turraja pinnata Span.
Aiuoora timorensis, W. & A.
Epichaiis speciosa, Juss.

(V) sttosa, Span.
Xylocarpus grauatum, Kaen.

Olacineie.

Causjera tiinorensis, Dciie.

Celastrinex.

Celastrus stylosa, Wall. 3829, 10 b.
Eiionynif^us javanicus, Bl. fi. timoroiisis.
Elffiodendron ellipiticum, Dene.
Salncia patens, Dene. 380i, 4075, 10 b.
Hippoeratca paucillorn, DC.

V cassiiioides, DC.

rigida, Sjmh.

Rhamnex.

Zizyphus celtidifolius, DC.
timoriensis, DC.
Jujuba, Lam. 4013, 4020, H.
Bercliemia pubiflora, 3Iit].

B.?sp. 38 ly, 3856,10 b
Colubiina asiatica, Br.
Gouaiiia leptostachya, DC. ? 368 h 7.

Ampelideai.

Vitis indica, L. " Timor " ?

cnrdnta. Wall. (Benrh.). 3753 bis, 8.
adnata, Wall. 3459, 1.
discolor, Dah. 3592, 7.
(Cissus timoriensis. DC.)
( „ Isevigata, Bl.)
( „ aculeata. Span.)
( „ coriacea, DC.)
( „ arachnoidea, Hnssh.)
(cf. Cissus irutabihs, Bl. ex deser.) 4043, 10 b
(cf. V. tnmentosa, Heyne.) 3450, 34G7, 1.
sp. 3739, 8.
sp. 3G44, 7.
Leca rubra, i?;. 3430,1. 8895,3896.
sp. 4082.
aequata, L.
gp. 3G22, 7.
sp. 3GG2, 7.

Sapindacex.

I'oraetia tomentosn, Kurz. )8. cuspidata, Bl.

Srorododeudron pallens, Bl. (Erioglossum alliaccum, Span.)

Cupania mutabilis, Miq.

Ratnnia sp. 3779, 9.

Spanoghea ferriiginea, Bl.

Harpulia cufanioides, Roxh.

Schleicliera trijuga, Jv. 4006, 1.

Erioglossum edule, Bl. 8. fraxinifolium.

Allophylus Cobbe, Bl. HG48, 7.

Cardirsperinum Halicacalum, L. 3682, 4087, 7.

Atiilaya salicitolia, Bl.

Dodoiifca angustifolia, Bl.

IN TIMOR. 503

Anacardicicex.

Hemecarpus longifulia, Bl.
Buclianania longiFoUa, Span.
Mangifera timorensis, Bl.

iiidica, L.
Spond'as lutea, L.

Connamcea;.

Connaius Spanoghei, Bl.

Leguminosx.

Tcphroi'a timoriensis, DC.

ligida, Span.
Imligofera corJifoliu, Heijn. (Wiles and Smith.)

liuifoli;i, /ife^z. o513, between 5 and 6 ; on rocky spots, nscendinj

to Kaiinauk, 3500 ft.
viscosa, Lam.

trifoliiita, L., var. tinn rensis.
Psoralea siipulncea, Dene.

Gaudichaudiana, Dene.
Crotalaria calycina, Schrank, 3887, between 10 an;1 H.
verrucosa, L. 3578.
prostiata, lioxb.
jiincea, L.
Jaburni folia, L.

medicaginea, L. 3153,4112,1.
Scsbaui.i giandiflora. 3752, 8.

a^gyptiaca, Bers.
.A^schynonieiic imlica, L.

palu'.a, Bers.
{?) atro-piirpurca. Span.
Stvlosanthcs mucronata, IF.
Smithia ciliata, Boyle. 3512, Q. 3909, 40GS, 7.

seiisitiva, L.
Zornia angustifolirt, Sm.

reticulata, A^m. /3. subglaudulosa.
zevloneufeis, Bers. y. gibbosa.
diphylla, Bers. 3499, 6.
Dcsmodiuiu'tritloruiii, DC. 4073, 3395 a, 7.
pulchelluni, Bth. 4009.
timoriense, DC.
concinnuni, DC.

latifuliura, DC. /3. Telfairii, W. & A.
gaugeticuni, DC. 3790, 9.
tiiquetruni. DC. 3121, 3449. 1 ; 3450, r
latifolium, DC. 3Vl, 1; 3718, 8.
polvcarpum, DC. 3153 (part) 1,
Scalpe, DC. 3990.
sp. 4000, 4102.
Dendrolobium umbullatuin, IF. (t A. 4011, 4023.

ceplialotcs, Bth.
Uraria lagopoide.-, Desv. 3452, 1,
picta, Desv.
crinita, Desv.
Psfiudartliria viscidii, W. & A.
Lourea vespertilionis, Desv.

obcordata, Desv.
Lcspedeza sericea, Miq. 3557, Q,
Abrus precaforiu.s. L.
iJuiunsia villosa, DC. 3857, 3873, 10 1).
Mueuua gigantea, DC.

504 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Canavalia obtusifoU;i, DC.
virosa, W. & A.
gladiata, DC.
(ilyciiie labialis, L.
Soju bamata, Miq. " Timor ? '
Alysicarpus vaginabs, DC.

bupleurifobus. DC.
Jongifblius, W. <t A.
slyracifolius, DC.
Pliylacium bract;,'06Hiu, Bcnn. 33d2, 7.
Pliateolus lunatus, L.
Vigna Catiaiig. 3G7:i, 7.
lobata, Eitdl.

laiiceolata, Benth. 3512, 3
•Uoliilios falcatus, Klein. 3529, 3530, 3541, 6 ; 3810, iO b.

Labial), L 37-19,8. " Kiitu'' and "Aha," are the native uaiucs.
Seeds f-atcn by natives alter four times boiling in fre^h waters.
Cnjanus iiulicus, Sprencj.
Atylesia seaiaba30ules, Benth.
Siipbora glauca, LescJi.
Biaehypterum timorense, Benth.
Derris uliginosa, Benth.

Spanogheana, Bl.
Pongamia glabra. Vent.

Dalber^'ia pubinervis, Span. " Species dubia, Miq."
Flemiiigia strobilifera, Br.

lineata, Boxh.
Pacliyiliiziis angulatus. Mich. 4110.
Khynchosia scricea. Span.

medicaginea, DC.
Candollei. DC.
miniiua, DC.
EriostUia chinense, Vo(j. 3430, 1,
Csesalpiiiia Nuga, Ait.

ferruginca. Dene.
pulchcrrima, Sio. 4022.

tepiaria Roxb.? 3793, 9. Climber co.c.iug great stretches of
the forest with its blight ori'.ige Howers.
]Mezoneuron glabra, Desf.

pubescens, Desf.
Cassia luln-.osoides, L. (R. Brown, CoupangY 3473, 1 • 34S7, 2
Fistula, L. 3890, 10 a.
me2:alantha. Dene.
exaltatj, Reinw. (sp. dubia.)
Absus, L. 3477, 1.

occidentalis, L. V (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Sophora,L. (R. Brown, Conpang.) 2480, 3i;(i3, 40'.)8, 7
Tora, 7y. (R. Brown, Oai|ang.) 3G02. 7.
timorensis, Decne. (R. Brown, Coupang.; 3719, g.
Bauhinia ampin. Span.

racemosa. Lam.
Tamarindus iiidicu.-i, L. 3132, 1. Native name, "Ru."
acid'i, Reinw.

sp. (cf. B. glauca, Wall.) R. Brown.
Cynometra cauliflora, L.
bijuga, Span.
Desmanthus trispermus, Span. " Forsan Neptunia." Miq.
Ac.icia Farnesiana, Willd. (R. Brown.)
tomeiitella, Zipp.
quadrilater.ilis, DC.
All.izzia procera, Benth. 359.3, 7 ; 3770, 9.

IN TIMOR. 505

Albizzia lelibckoides, Benth.

stipularis, i?o/i;. 3683,4038,7.
Pithecolobium umbcllatum, Bth., 0. moniliferunj,

? laxilioruin, Bth.
Inga petrocarpa, Simii. (sp. dubia.)

Jiosaccx.

Rubus rosajfolius, Sm. 3-74, 10 b ; 3518, 6,
sp. 3:)02, 6; 3913,4026, 6.
sp. 3.524, 6.
Grangeiia bnrbouicii, Lam.
Prunus lauiifolia, Dene.
Eriobotiya japonica, Liiidl.
Pygeum'sp. 3680,3905,7. ^y •

Saxifrngacex.

Poylosoini iliclfolia, Dl. 3813, 10 b,
Cucurliitaccai.

Tiicliosaiitbos bracteat^i. Vo'cjt.
' IMiiiiiordica Cliar.intia, L. 0 abbrcviata 3764, 9.
Lulla cyliudiica, Roem.

j8. insularum, Corjn.
CitruUns vulguis, L. (Cucuiii-s disscctus. Dene.)
Coccinia coidifoliii, Cujn. (C. iudica, W. & A.) 4021, 7,

Crassuliie:!E.

Brynpliylliiiu calychuuu, L. 37.!6, 6,
Ehizopharex.

CaiaUia limorensis, Bl.
Droserae.x.

Driwera lunata, nam. 3420, 1 ; on rocky spots oa rod clavev soil, 2500 ft.
N..tcomiuo:i below 2000 ft. 3519,6.
Cynhrefuu-.x.

Terminal ia niicrocarpa, Dene.

Laguucularia lutea. Gaud.

Myriacex.

Eucalyptus alba, Bdnic. 3551, 1.

obliqua, limit.
Jiimb'sa albfi. Humph. 5. tininrcusis.
tSyzygium ubovatuni, DC. " Timor ? "

timoiiauum, Dene.
Eugenia Sinithii, Voir. (Acmena lloribu.ula, DC.) R. Brown.
Barringtonia timorensis. Bl.
Planclionia timoricnsis, Bl., /3. alata.
Psidium pomiferuni, L. 3733, 8.
Dccaspermuni paiiifulatum, Kurz. 3670, 7,

sp. 3585, 7; 3859, 3838, 10 b.
Melaslnmacex.

INIemecylon pauciHorum, Bl. 3598, 7-

Osbeckia cliiuensis, L 3550, 6 ; 4016, 3912. 10 b.

TMclastoma malabatliricum. 3506. 6 ; 3822, 3894, 10 b*

Li/thrariae.

SufTreuia dicbotnmn, Miq.
Ha{)al('car|ium iiidicum, W. (t A
I'onipliirt acidulo. Forst.
Lnwsonia alba, Lam.
Grislea tfiuicntnsi, 7^ox/>.

Woodfurdia tloribunda, Sah'»h. 3125, 1. Common on tbe lidgea of the hills
from 1500-2500 ft. — -

506 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Onagrarieai.

Jussiaja angustifolia, Lam.
sutfruticosa, L.
repeiis, L.
Samydac€ce.

Casearia hcxagona, Dene.

/3. gelonioiJes, Bl,
ramiflora, Dene.
Paesiflorex.

Disemma timoriaiia, Miq.

Herbertiaiia, DC.
Modecci jiopulifoli:!, Zipp.
Passifloia moluccaua, lU. 3702, 9.

Cuciirhitaeex.

Tricliosauthcs bract^ata, Voigt.

Momortlica charantia, L., )3. abbrcviata. 3764, 9.

Lufia cyliiulrica. Eoem., fi. insularum, Cogn.

CitruUus vulgaris, L. (Cucnmis disscctus, Dene.)

Coccinia cordifulia, Cogii. (C. indic;i, IK & A.) 4021, 7.

Melotbria Rauwenhfffii, Cogn. (Zehneria dtltoidea, Miq.) 3457, 1.
lietcrophylla, Coj>. 3685, 7 ; 3G27, 7.
madoiaspatana Cogn. (LJ^yonia scabrella, jSer.)

Muellfmrgia tiraorensis, Cojn.

GyiiostL-mma? hcdera}folia, Cogn. (Sicyai bederrerolius, Dcm.)

Zanonia indica, L.

Alaomitra sarcophylln, Raem.

tiinorana, Eoem. (Zanonia, Span.) '• No;i satis nota."
Begoniacea;.

Mezierea salaziensis, Gaul. (Diploclinium ? tiniarensa, Miq.)

Begonia sp. 38o3, 10 b. cp. preceding.

Ficoidem.

Sesnvium (Pyxipoma) polyandriim, Fcnzl.

Glinus lotoides, Lo'fl.

MoUugo striata, L.

oppositifolia, L. 3713, 7 ; 4100.
Vmbellifcrx.

Anethum gravcolens, L.
Araliacex.

Heptapleiiruui \ertic;llatiim, Miq.

Arthronhyllum (Nothopanax?) pinnatum, Miq.

Delarbica paradoxa, Vieill. 3041, 4042, 7 ; 3062, 7 ; 375G. 8 ; 3839, 10 b-

Gajioi etaL/E, by W. Fawcett, B. Sc, F.L.S.
Caprifoliaeese.

ViBrBNUM FoRBESii, Fawc. (nov. sp.)- 3587, 3589 (part.). Tahaolat Mount.
5000 ft. between Q and 7 ; 4040, 4^189, 7. Foliis oppositis petiolatifc
elliptico-lanceolatis acuminatis, basi acutis integris menibranaceis glabris
in axillis venarum subtus barbatis, venis utiinque 3-4 prominulis ; cyniis
breviter pubescentibus fructiferis glabre.-centibus corymboso-unibellatis
terminalibus foliis tiiplo brevioribus, bracteis et bractcolis linearibus
(leciduis ; floriljus omnibus coiiforniibus; calyce breviter pubescente,
dentibus 5 bicvibus inaiqualibus integris aut irregulariter dentatis;
corolla parva campanulato-rotundata glabra, lobis 5 tubum ajquantibus
obtusis ; stylo brevi, stigmatibus 3-4 parum coalitis olitusis; drupa uni-
loculata coinpresra elliptica; semine cndocarpio conformi.
Foliorum laminaj impunoratc'c 10-14 cm., petioli lj-2J cm. Bractea? 2^-3
mm., bracteolfe 1 -1 J ra. longaj Corolla 2 mm. longa. Drupa 7 mm. longa,
5-6 mm. lata.

IN TIMOR. 507

This species appears to be near to V. Zippelii, IMiq., V. punctatum,
Ham., but difters in the leaves and the indumentum of the calyx.
Viburnum (sp., aut var. praac. ?) foliis ovato-lanceolatis acuminatis basi
obtusis; drupa obovata (flores non vidi). 3872, 10 b.

Covipositgs.

Vemonia ciaerea, Less. 4059, 1,

var. eriireroides. (R. Brown. Coupana:.).
var. C DC. (V. parvitlora, Beinw.). (R. Brown, Coupaug.)
Elepliantopus scaber, L.

Adenostemma viscosum, Forst. 'U. Brown, Coupang.).
Dichrocephala latifolia, DC. 3o37. 400(3, 6.
TMicroglnssa volubilis, DC. 3tJ21, 7.
Bacchaiis? arborea. L.

Blumca tenella. DC. (Tiraor only ; see note on Timor species of Blurao;!,
by C. B. Clarke, in 'Fl. Brit. Ind.' iii. 671.)
fasciculata, DC. (excl. sp. Bimian.).
timorensis, DC.

lacinii.ta, DC. (B. cichoriifolin, DC.)
fccssiliflora, Decne.
acutata, DC.
viminca. DC.
balsamifcra, DC. 3498, 2 fii^l at Kilehoho, 3100-iOOO ft. between

2 i^nd 3.
Wightiuna, DC. (Timor, Tcysmann ; see Martelli in ' N. Giorn.
Bot. Itai.' XV. 291).)
Pluchea indica. Less.

Splireranthus africanus, L. (S. microjephalii?, DC.)
Monenteles reddens, Lahill.

tomentosus, Schz. Bip. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Gnaplialium hueo-album, L. 3913, between 2 find 3 ; •402.'i, 6.
Wedelia calendulacea, iess. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3497, valley of

Erlihumauberek, 3500 ft. April. 3848, 10 a.
WoUastonia molucoana, DC. (Wedelia, B. & II.) 3928, 6 (also specimen
with 35G7).
a.spcrrinia, Decne.
glabrata, DC.
Wedelia biflora, Ilaoli. f. (WoUastonia scabriuscula, DC.) 3507, R.
Bidens pilosa, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3488, 3489, 2 ; 3595, 6 ; 37u4 a, 7.
Tagetes patula, L. 3559. In abumiance by the sides of stream below

Turskain, 30U0 ft. ; distant from any habitation. (Native of Mexico.)
Chrysanthemimi coronarium, L. C'ultd.; native of Mediterranean regions.
Centipeda orbicularis. Lour. 3GG7, 7.
Eraehtliites quadridentata, DC.
Emilia sonehifolia, DC. 3443, 1 : 3493, 3955, 6.
Senecio appendicuiatu^, Less, (fide Decaisuu ; "endemic" in Mauritius,

J. G. Baker.).
Lactuca lajvigat i, DC. (Araciiim hevig.itum, Miq.) 370G, 7.

liuhidcae.

Nauclea grandifolia, DC.

glandulifera, Spatt.
tericia. Span.
sp. ; 3709, 9.
Ilymenodyctiou timoranum, 3//V/. (Cinchona timorana, Span.)
Dentella npen.s, Forst. (R. Brown's list, Coupang).
Argostemma timorense, lienn. (R. Mrown. Coupang.)
Oldcnlandia pnniculala, 7j. 3797; 9. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
sp., tiowcrs white. 3547. 6.
alata, K<in. (pterita, Miq.).
Opbiorrhiza tomentosn, J(irJ;. 3934, 9.

Mangos, L. (R. Brown, Coupang; "Xama.")

508 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Mussaenda frondosn, L. 3433, 1.

Kandia maculata, Span.

Fenielia buxitblia, la7/i. Var. timorciisis, Dtcne. F. buxifolia occurs only in
Mauritius and Kodriguez.

Guettarda speciosa, L. (K. Browu's list, Cjuping.)

Timonius Kuniphii. I)C ; 3G5!>, 7. Var. 343G, 3J0ti (with 3G4G), 1

Knoxia corymbosa, Willd. 3523, 4028, 4009, 6.

Cauthopsis pub i flora, iV/i^. (Endemic mouotypicgpnus.) A. Cunningham, 514.

Ixora tinicireiisis, JJecne. (Pavctta timorensis, Miq.). 3798, 9, 4076, 7.
(found also in Australia),
coccinea, L. (Sir E. Home, Coupang.)

Ixora gracilis, 11. Br. mss. (R. Browa aud D. Nelson, Timor, Hetb. Banks.) —
Stipulis basi connatis dilatato-ovatis abrupte et longiter cuspidatis, persis-
tentibus ; ibliis glabris petiolatis lauceolatis aut ovali-lanceolatis utrinque
acutis aut apica subacuminatis, G-15 cm. Jongis, supremis sajps p.irvis basi
rotuudatis, membranaceis, uec nigris sicL'atis, veuis pluribus patulis
tenere venulosis; corymbis termiualibus gracilibus trichotome ramosis
laxis, 12-16 cm. altis, 12 cm. latis, pedicellis bicvissime pubescentibus
corolla} tubo bievioribus, bracteolis pirvis subulatis ; calyce brevissime
pubesccnte, dentibus 4 brevibus triangulari-nvatis acutis ; corolla glabra,
tubo angusto 11-14 mm. longo, ladniis 4 ellipticis acutis 8 mm. longis;
staniinibus 4 exsertis; stylo paruiu exserto, ram's 2 brevibus acutis
reflexis ; bacca6-7mm. lati, pyrenis 1 aut2. The flowers are quite unlike
those of 1. nifjricans, as the tube is more slender, and the limb in bud
is more than twice as broad.

Ixora quixquifida, R. Br. mss. (D. Nelson, Timor, in Herb. Banks.). — Stipu-
lis basi connatis triangularibus cuspidatis deciduis ; foliis glabris breviter
petiolatis lanceolato-oblongis acuminatis basi subobtusis subcoriaceis,
11-21 cm. longis; paniculis termiualibus brachiatis, 9 cm. altis et latis,
pedicellis glabris corollas tubo brevioribus, bracteis parvis vix 2 cm.
longis ovatis acuminatis, bracteis secondariis 7 mm. longis, bracteolis
nullis aut caducis ; calycis glabri dentibus brevi?simis aut obsoletis;
corolla) fauco barbato, tubo 10 cm. longo, laciniis 5 ellipticis acutis,. 6-7
mm. longis; staminibus 5 exsertis ; stylo parum exserto, ramis 2 brevibus
acutis.

Pavctta indica, L. 3875, 7,
longipes, DC.

Myonima oviita, Decne. (Mturitius.)

Morinda citrifoiia, L.

Gynochtodes coriacea, Bl.

Psychotria montana, BL 3303, 3907, 3916, 10 b.
barbata. Span.
? sp. parviflora. Span. (D. Nelson in Herb. Banks).

Chasalia capitata, i)C (Mauritius; Timor, ^(?e Decaisne.)

Geophila reniformis, G. Von. 3715, 8.

Psederia footida, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, " Tali.")

Spermacoce stricta, Linn. f. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 36G6, 7.
ocymoides, Burm. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
hispida, L. (R. Biown, Coupang.)

Bigelovia sociata. Span.
? puniila. Span.
? angustifolia, Span.

Galium rotundifolium, L. 3861, 19 b ; 6000 feet ; 4070, 6.
6 ; 4000 feet.

Goodenovi'ex.

ScsDVola Lobelia, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.;

CampanulaeeiB.

Sphenoclea zeylanica, Gsert.

Wahlenbersia gracilis, DC. On rockv exposed banks, 3511 and 4048, 3;
3914, 4065, 7.

7^" TIMOR. 509

Vacciniacefe.

Vaccinium timoeense, Faicc. (nov. sp.),— Frutes, ramulis petiolis raccmis
calycibu-que pubescentibiis; foliis lirevi-petiolatis lanccolatis utrinquc
acHtis 22-30 mm. longis iutegris planis coriaceis glabris supra lucidis
subtus pallMis; raceinis 4 cm. lo:i-is asillaribus subsecimdis, pedicellis
6-8 mm. longis; calyce 2-3 mm. loiigo, lobis tubi lungitudino acutis ;
cornlLi -l-G mm. lo;iga tiibulari rosea ; filamentis staminum pilosis, loculis
antheraiura eliijiticis minutiss-'mis spiinilis tectis dorso muticis in tubulos
breves rectos apice apertrs productis ; disco epigyno pubesccnte e.\trorsum
sinnato: bacca 5 mm. longa globosi glabrescente nigra. This species
differs from T'. elUpticnm especially in the flat lanceolate leaves and
glabrous fruits. "3423, straggling" shrub ; rose-ci4oured flowers: dark
green fruit, becoming black wlien ripe; 1. 3586, large shrub; flowers
scarlet; Tahaolat Mt, 50U0 feet ; April."
p. denticulatuni. '3447, large bush, flowers rose coloured, on slopes of
gorges. Foliage larger than in 3423, and margins of leaves slightly
denticulate ; 1,"

Eiyacrideas.

Leixopogox obovatus, Faii-c. (nov. sp.),— Frutex ercclus, ramulis pubes
centibus ; foliis confertis erecto-imbricatis sessilibus obovato-lanceolatis
acutis, niucrone rigido tc-rminatis, planis srepe snbconcavis, 15 mm. longis,
3 mm. latis; pedunculis axillaribus brevissimis 1- ant 2-floris ; braeteis
minimis; bracteolis latis obtusis, calyce dimidio brevioribus ; calyeis
laciniis latis obtusis mucronatis ciliolatis 2J mm. longis ; corolla calycibus
longiore, lobis acutis; stamiiubu^ fauci afli.\is, antherij obtusis; ovaric
5-loculari; drupa 1- aut 2doculari subglobosa calycibus longiore, disco
hypogyno subcouvexo sublobato coronata. Tiiis species resembles L.
ruscifolius, L. nioluccanum, L. lancifoJhts, and L. javankus, but differs in
several particulars, such as shape of leaves, sepals, and fruit. 3493 a.
On top of Tehulah, 4000 feet ; April ; fruit grceu.

I'lumbaginece.

Plumbago zeylanica, L. 8778, 3778 a, 9. (E. Brown's list, Coupang, " Akur
hicca.")
rrimulacex.

Lysimachia decurrens, Forst. 3501, 6. Iq t^'is specimen tlie stamens are
not so long as the oblong corolla tubes ; but this may be due to di-
morphism.

Myrsinem

]Ma>sa indica, A. DC. ; 3G13, 7. Yar. Wiglitiana, A. DC. (leg. Spanoghe, fide
Scheffer).

M^SA ruLCHELLA, Fcurc. (nov. ep.),— Foliis petiolatis glabris lajvigatis
nitidis integris aut glanduloie remote .serratis, lanceolatis utrinque acutis
chartaceis ; racemis basi ramosis axillaribus et terminalibus lolio sub-
lougioribus glabris; pedicellis florem a-quantibus; braeteis lanceolatis
acuminatie, pedicelli triplo brevioribus ; bracteolis ovato-lanceolntis
ciliolatis c.dyce multo brevioribus; floribus pentameris; calyeis laciniis
triangularibus ciliolatis ; corolla calyce dujilo longiore, laciniis ovato-
rotundatis; ovarium fere inferum.

Folia 10-13 cm. longa, 3-4 cm. lata vcnis primariis utrinque 4-5, secundariis
obscuris. 355G, 35G'), 6 ; 3573, river banks, 6; 4103, 8.

Majga verrucosa, Scheff. 37G3, small tree. 9.

leucocarpa, Bl. ("Timor? prope IMallathoi, Keinwardt," Scheffer).

Ardisia Spanoghei, Scheff. (Spanoghe).

fiangulrelifolia, Scheff. Zipp. niss. ; log. Zipp. ct Span.)

Ebcnai-ew.

Diospyros timoriana, Miq.

montana, linxb., vnr. cordifolia, Hiem
mantima, Bl.

34

510 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Oleacesr..

Jasminnm Samliac, Ait. A. Cuiining-linni.

siiiiplicifoliuni. I'orst. It. iiiowii.
pubescens, Willd. A. Cuuningham.
Chionauthus montaua, Bl.

timorensis, Bl.
Noronhia emarginata, Pet. Th.
Nyctaiithcs aibor-trislis, L. (R. Browu, Coiipang.)

Apocijimcefe.

Melodixis FoRBESii, Fiiicc. (nov. sp.), — Foliis ovato-lanceolatis basi lotun-
datis bivviter petiolatis glainis supra nitidis pergaraaceis ; cyiiiis terinina-
libus f.lio multo brevionbus multifloris coarctitis, ramis pedicellisque
incan-suVjvelutiiiis glabrescentibns bracteatis, peilicellis calyce bievioiibus,
" fioribus albis fragrantibus," (H^O.F.) ; lobis calycinis ovatis obtusis glnbris
ciliatis; corolla extus siibvelutina, tubo tereti intus supra stamina dense
velutino, limbi laciniis oblique obovato-rotuudatis ]iaree et brevissime pilosis,
fauee iiispid's, squaiuis 10 linearibus acutis glabris supeine libeiis interne
decurrentibus ; staniinibus ad medium tubum inclusis, tilamentis anthera
duplo breviiiribus ; ovario supra La-iin uniccUidari, stigmatis apiculo bifido.
Folia 12-14 cui. longa, 3|-4 cm. lata, peiioli 5-6 mm. longi. CoioUa)
tubus 10 mm., limbus U mm. longus. 370S, 7, Tliis species comes near
to M. Cumhujii, but tiie llowers ara smaller, the stamens placed higher
up in the tube, and the apex of the stigma is bifid ; the ovary is only
partially two-celled.
Melodinus terminalis, l^pan. (unde.cribed; perl.aps the tame as the species

described above).
Cari-sa Carantlas, L.

Rauwolfia sumatraua, Jacl:, var. longifolia, Bl.
Alyxia Spanogheana, Miq.
Tabernremontana orientalis, Ti. Br. 3781, 9.
Tallaris Pergidana. Burm.
Par.-onsia spiralis. Wall.
Cerbera Odallam, Giert.
Wrigl.tia pubesccns, It. Br.

calyeina, A. DC. var. y. Miq.
tiuctoria, Bl.
timorensis, Miq.
Spanogheana, Miq.
Alstonia seholaris, B. Br.
speclabilis, B. Br.
niacrophylLi, Wall.
sericea, Bl.
Anodendron paniculatum, A. DC.

Plumeria acutifolia, Poir. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, " Bouge tonke.")
Vinca rosea, Willd. (" In hortis," Spanoghe). Abundant in river beds below
Kalakuk.

Asclepiadeie.

Cryqitolepis laxiflora, Bl.
Secamone micrantha, Decne.

timorensis, Decne.
Calotropis gigantea. Br. (R. Brown's list Coupang, " Daun susu.")
Tylophora crassifolia, Di'cne. (Zipp. mros.)

villosa. Bl. {fide Zippel).

cuspidata, Decne. (Zijip. niss.)
Marsdenia teuacissima, Wiijld & Am.
Ftrgularia odoratissima, Sm.

bifida, Decne, (ZipjJ. mss.)

tomentosa, Span. (P. crocca, Zipp. mss.)
Dregea volubiiis, Be)dh.
Gymnema syringajfolia, Benth.

IX TIMOB. 511

Gymnema albidum, Decne.
Discbidia orbicularis, Decne.
timorensis, Decne.
Hoya laurifuba, Decne.

Cekopegia OBTrsiLOBA, Fmcc. (nov. sp.), — Tulubilis, glabra ; foliis ovatis
attenuato-acuminatis b.isi rotundatis mcmbranaceis ciliolatis siibrepamlo
dentntis, lamina 5-7 cm. longa, peti'jlo 1-2 cm. longo ; pedunculis foliis
dimidio brevioribus, floribus 3-7 pcdicellatis ; calycis laciniis subulato-
acumimatis •2-'2| mm. loiigis ; corollis I5-2V cm. loiigi.s, tuho intus circa
.'-taminx piloso; coronaj lobis exterioribus 10 brevihus obtusis pilosis
interioribus 5 longi.i linearibus bubspathulati^. "jSOI, iiowers dark reddish-
brown; 9.
Lo^jciniacex.

Buddleia asiatica. Lnur. 372.3, 8.

Stryclnios ligustrina, Bl.

Mitrasacme pygmaja, Br. 3492, 3 ; 3884, 10 fc.

trinorvis, Span. Probably same as M. pygmxa.
Gcniostoma montaiiiim, ZoU. & Mor. "3552, 6; 3616, 3654, 3947, 7.
BoraginecB.

Touruefortia argentca, L. f. (Spannglie, R. Brown's list, Coupang.)

Faimcnfosa. Lawk. 3835, 10 b
C'ordia subcord tti, Laml: (Wiles and Smith, Coupang.)
tricliostemon, DC.

Bubpiibcscen.-;, Decne. (" Kanoena," Spanoglie.)
Ehretia laurifolia, Decne.
timorensis, Decne.
buxifolia, Bo.rh.
Heliotropium indicum, L. (U. Ijiown's list, Coupang, " Dauu futer.")
Convolfulacex.

Argyreia Reinwardliana. Miq.

Guichcuntii, CJioi-^.
Lettso:nia setosa, Bo.r:b.

Ipomooa boua-nox, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)
graiidiflorii. Lanih. 3773, 9.
capillata. Span.

aquatica, Forsh. (5. rcplans. Voir., R. Brown's list, Coupang.)
leniformis, Ch<.u.
iingustifolia. Jacq. 3751, Q.
chryseides, Ker.

Irichocalyx, Slend. (? R. Brown, Coupang.
obscura, Ker. 4004, 1.
sepiaria, Ko'n.
campanulata, L.
oym sa, Boem.
petaluidca, ChoiK.

pos-ciiprnp. Sic. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)
vitifolia, Sw.
pumihi. Span.
tligitata, L.

Quamnclit. L. 3871, 10 b.
repanda, Jarq. (Wiles and Smith. Coupang.)
lederacca, Jacq. 377G, 9 ; 4105, 1 ; 4108, 9, (R. Brown, Cou-
pang.)
Hewittia b:color, Wiijhf.
Convolvulus jtarvilliirus, Valil.
Poraiia vohibilis, Burm.

racemo.sa, Boxh. 4104, 1,
Evolvulus nlsinoiiles, L.
Cuscuta refli'xa, Boxh.

mo:iogyiia, VaJil.

512 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Solanacex.

Lycopcrsicum esculentuni, Blill. (R, Brown's list, Conpang, "Mattoo

mattee.")
Solanuni aviculare, Forst.

dianthophorum, Dim

homduni, Dun.

violaceum, Br.

verbascifoliuni, L. 3023, 7 ; 3808, 10 b ; 4036, 7,

nigrum, L. 3785, 9 ; 382G, 3881, 10 b.

indicum, L. 3841, 10 b.

bnrbisetum, Nees. ? 3U34, 7 ; 4008, 8 ; 409G, 10.

Melongena, L. 3786, 9 ; 4091, 1 ; flowers small, 8 lines iu

diameter; fruit, 1 inch,
torvum, Sin. 3806, 10 b.
detiticulatum, lil. 3tC4, 1,
Capsicum fiutescens, L. Spaiioghe.

minimum, Boxh.
Xicotiana suaveolens, Lthm.

Tabacum, L. H.O.F. No number.
Physalis minima, L.
Datura Metel, L.

fnstu'-sa, L. 3759, 9 ; 4001, 9.

Scroplmlarineie.

Mazus Isevifolius, Bl.
gratissima, BL
Herpestis floribunda, Br.

Monniera, H.B.K.
Bonnaya brachiata, Linlc & Otto.
veronicaitblia, Spreng.
Buchnera arguta, Decne.

ramosifsima, J?. Br.

tomentosn, 5/. 3805,3811,101). (II. Brown, Coupang.;
a&perata, R. Br.
Buchnera tisioreksis, Fence, (nov. sp.), — Pubesoenf, caule crecto simplici
10-23 cm. alto ; loliis oppositis integris, radicalibus et iiifimis subrosulatis
obovatis 8-16 mm. longis, caulinis oblongis et fcuperne liiiearibus; spici
inten-upta; bracteis 2-2^ mm. longis, lanceolatis acuminatis pubescentibus
calyce plus din.idio brevioribus ; calyce fructitcro 4-5 mm. loiign, 2 mm.
lato, pubescente, dentibu.s bre%ibus lanceolatis ; corolla glabr.i 1-lf cm.
longa, tubo calyce duplo longiore ; rapsulis vix exserlis. This species
diflers from itb nearest Au.'-tialian allies, and also from B. anjnta, in the
large ccroUa combined with small leaves and low simple stem. 3191;.
floweis pink; among grass on top of Kilehoho ; between 2 "ud 3, tit 4600
feet.
BvcHNERA EXSERTA. I'oKT. (nov. sp.). — Seabro-pubosccn.s, caulc erecto ramoso
7^-9 dm. alto; (obis alternis, su[i(riorilius suboppositis lauccolato-oblongis
obtusis integiis ant lepando-dentatis; spica multillora interrupt;! ;
■bra<teis ovato-lanceo!atis scabris, calyce dimidio brevioribu.s, intimis
ssepe longioiibus; calyce fructiiero 4-5 mm. longo, 2 mm. lato, pubescenti-
Ecabro, dentibus brevibus triangularibus acut.s ; c oroUa glabra calycibus
diiplo longiore; cap^idis longeexsertis. This species is remarkable for its
long capsule. 3811. bs. 10 b. (R- Brown, Coupang.)
Striga [-^panogheaTia, Miq.

par\ifl()ra, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3737 ; flowers bluish-
purple, 8.
multiflora, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Torenia minuta, Bl. 3-1 S3, 1 ; 3950. 7.

peduncularis, Benth. 3440, 4058, 1, The flowers are somewhat
smaller than in the description iu 'Fl. Brit. Ind.,' the lower stamens
are longer and the upper shorter than in plate 4229, Bot. Mag.

7.V TIMOR bVi

Scopiiria dulcis, L. 4109.
Sopubia trifida, Ham. 3555, 6.

Gcsneracex.

Rhyncoglossuni obliquuin, Bl.

Epithema Brunouis, Decne.
(liftbniie, S)Kin.

Cyrtaxdra SEraiATA, Faicc. (nov. sp.), " Arbiiscula " (PI. O. F.). — Foliis serra-
tis late laiiceolatis utrinque attcnuatis subiiiasqnalibus glabris, majoiibus
2 dm. longis, 45 inm. latis, nervis obscure pubescentibiis primariis lateruli-
bus utrinque S-10, petiolis 15-20 mm.; pedunculis 0-5 mm. ; bracteis
(? caducis; ; pediccllis "i-H, 2 cm. longis, umbellatim ortis; oalyce fructifern
t5-8 mm. Inugo, 5-fi.lo, campanulato, glabro, lobis 4 mm. lougis lanceulati.s
acuminatis ; corolla . . .; ovario . . .; disco annulari; baec i ellipsoidea.
Appiirently near to C. cuneata, but ditiers in being glabrous, in the s rr.'te
long-petiofed kaves, and the short peduncles. 3SGS, 3883, 10 b.

Bignoniacea;.

Millingtonia hortcnsis, L. f.
Dolichaudrone Rlieedii, Seem.
Colea ramitlora, I)C.

Fedallnex.

Joseph inia Imperatricis, Vent.

Sesamum indicum, DC. R. Urown, C'oupang, " Lena.")

M-.irtynia diandra, Glox. 3154, and 4052, 1. (Mexico.)

Acantliacex.

Thunbergia fragrans, Boxh. (R. Brown, and Smith and Wiles, Coupaug.)
fragraiis, var. lajvis, C. B. Clarice. 3783, 9 ; 3852, 10 a ; i '-^^J. 1
hastata, Decne.
Nomapliila petiolatM. Decne.

Sautieia Decaisnii, Nees. (mouotypic endemic gjnus). A. Cunuingham, 320
Ruellia idrsuta, Nees.

Decaisniana, Nees.

prostrata. Lam., var. dejecta, C. B. CI.
Strobilauthes timorensis, Nees.

aspera, Decne. A. Cunnhigham.
Barleria Piionitis, L.
Lepidagathis humit'usa, Decne.
javanica, Bl.
rcpens, Decne.
Justicia Gendarussa, L.f. 3774, 9.

procumbens, L. 3986. 2 *, 3528, 6 ; 3601, 7.
Eranthemum bicolor, Schr. (R. Brown, and Smith and Wiles, Coupaug.)
Dicliptera glabra, Decne. A. Cunningham,
eriautha, Decne.
spicata, Decne.
Burmanni, Nees.
Peristroplie albitiora. Hassle.
Hypoesks rosea, Decne.

Asy stasia cheloiioides, Nees. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
coiomandeliana, Nees. 4083, 8 ; 4047, 7.
DiANiHERA TEiiMiXALis, Faivc. (nov. Sp.). — Caulc debili, iuferne decumbcnte ;
foliio longe petiolatis, lanceolatis, utrinque acuminatis, srepo basi rotun-
dati--', supra paucissinds jili.-', infra ntrvis pnbescentibus, majoribrs cum
petiolo 15 em. longis 4 cm. latis, supeiiorilnn subsessiiibua '2k-5 em.
longis ; pnnienlis terminalibus pubescentibus 5-25 cm. lung's, ramis
oppositis dich'itomis, pedicellis brevissiiuis fHifornubus; bracti is et brac-
teolis minutis, subulatis; calyce 5-jiartito, laciidis nciiualibus subulatis,
brevifer glanduloso-pubescente ; corolla 1cm. longn, tulm rectu; labio
superiore bitido; staminibus 2 ad medium tubum corolhe artixis, uou ultra
suinmum tubum attingentibu*, fi'amcntis tHiformibus ; disco annulari ;

514 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

capsula oblnnga apice acuta tetraspemm. 3814, 10 a; 3821, 4030, 10 b;
var. granrlijlora, corolla li cm. lotigo, tubo arapliato; paniculo glanduloso-
pubesceiite. Zollinger, No. 2951, Java.

Virhenacese.

PfiTEiEA AKBOREA, Kuntli., 8mitb and AViles. — Xo species cf this tropical
American genus has hitherto been recorded as spontaneous in the Old
"World, but Mr. Forbes has also met with it in Java in an undoubtedly
wild state, and in great (denty (see p. 78). It is not at all improbnble that
it will he met witli in other localities. A nearly allied genus lias lately
been described by Prof. Oliver in Ic. Plant. (PI. 1420), namely Petra^ovitex.
The only species of this genus known, P. Eiedeln, was obtaino<l a short
time ago by Mr. Eiedol's collectors in the island of Bnru ; but it is
reported from AmboLna by Rumphius (Vol. v., p. 4, t. 3) in 1747 imder the
name Funis cpiadrifidus, and specimens in fruit exist in Brit. j\lus. Herb.,
collected by Christopher Smitli in 1798 in Honiinoa or Saparun, an
island near Amboiiia.
Vitex trifolia, L., var. unifuli:;ta. 3720. 3.
pube=cens, Vahl. 405G, 1,

Negundo, L. (R. Brown, Coupang, "Lagoundi.")
timoriensis, TT"o/2^. A. Cunningham.
Cr.KEODENDnoN pvi.CHRUM, Faicc. (nov. sp.), — R miulis, panicnlir", ct petiolis
brevissime tomentosis ; foliis longe petiolatis cordatis ovato-iotundatis
acuiniuatis integris repaudo-sinuatis, subtus .>-tiigoso-hirtellis, s-upr.i pajne
glabris, majoribus cum petio'.o 24-30 cm. longis; panicula terminuli corym-
bo.sa ; calycibus 8 mm. longis glaliris, fiuctiferis non aucti-, lobis 5 mm.
longis, lauceolatis; corollis '•coralliiii.s," (H. O. F.) glabri.s, tnbo 25 mm,
longo; staminibus longe exsertis; drupa gbibosa 4-snlcata tenuitr-r .sufcosa,
pyrenibus 4 per paria cohserentibus. Tliis is a well-mark* d species, with its
large deeply cordate haves, tiie long-tubed corolla, and calyx not enlarged
ill fruit. 3601, 7; 3000 ft.; April.
Clerodeudron inerme, Gxrtn.

longitlorura, JJecne.
Callicarpa cana, L. (H. Brown, Coup:mg ; C. s-p. in list, " Cadia Bousson.")
pedimculata, II. Br. 3UJ5, 1,
sumatraua, Miq. ? St'Ol, 7,
Premna timoriana, Decne.
corymbosa, Itottl.

sp. 3611. :^.638, 2892, 41-88 ; tree ; fruit becoming black, 7.
Tectona grnndis, Linn.f. (R. Biown's list, Coupang, " Jdatti.")
Lippia noditlora, Rich. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)

Lahiatx.

Ocimum Basiiicum, L. (R. Brown. Coupang.)

sanctum, L. (R. J5rown, Coupang.)
IMoschosma polystachvnm, Bentli.

Plectranthus parvifl .rus, Willd. (P. austrnlis, R. Br. . 38S8, let ween 10-]1.
Coleus grandifolius, Benth.

scutellariuides, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang, " Bouug.i timta.'}
socundiHorus. Benth.
Hyptis brevipts, Poit. 3563.
Calamintha mohiccana, Miq.

Scutellaria heteiopoda, 3//(/. 3129. Leaves spread out on surface of gromid.
flowers deep cobalt blue. On ridges and crevices exposed to sun on red
clayey soil ; 1 ; 3533, R.
Anisomeles c;UMicans, Benin.

ovata, R. Br. (U. Brown, Coupang.)
salviifolia, R. Br.
Leucas procumbens, -Des/.

dtcemdeudata, Sni. (Gaudichaud; R. Brown, Coupang, "Kappa

Ma.")
javanica, Bcntli. (? chincnsis, Span., Timor).

IN TIMOR. 515

Teucriura viscidum, IM. (Ja^n.)

^. densiflora, Miq. (Timor.)
Cymaria aciiiniuata, Decne.

Apetal.i;, by "W. Fawcett, B. Sc, F.L.S.
Ifijdarjinex.

Mirabilis Jakpa, L. CTi. Brown's list, " Bounga mattaii.'')
Boerhaavia repamia. Tl'. (R. Brown, Coupan^. Tills may be the species
denote 1 in liis list, as B. tetran Ira, " Lei lidi. ')
dit!usa, L. 4033, 9.
a. obtusiloba, Choi's.

/3. acutifolia, Clwis. (C. Brown, Coupang.)
y. pubescens, Chois. (B. glutinosa, Vahl.)
Pisonia excelsa, Bl.

Amarantacefe.

Deeringia baccata, -l/oj. (D. celosioides, R. Br.) 3j5G, 7, -1012, 1.
Cclosia cristata, Moq.
argenlca, L.
Amarantus spinosus, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang. '• Wajang.') 3455;
34G6, 3930.
niangoatanns, L.
oleiaceus, L.

polygamus, Miq. (R. Brown's list, Coupang. A. sp., " Sayal
Badjang.")
Ptilotus corymbosus, R. Br. 'J imor?

Pupalia laj^pacea, Moq. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, " Boung.i Makrili "
and " Suioro.") 3775 ; 9.
atropnrpurea. Moq.
/3. pallida, Moq.
iErua sanguinolenta, B'.

tiinorensis, Moq.
Achyianthes tomfiitflla. Zipp.

as-pera. L. (R. l5rown's list, Coupang, " Susoro " an. I " Kakai.")
Altornantheia noditloia, R.Br.
Gomplirenu globcsa, L.

Chenoiwdiacese.

Arthrocneniiira fruticoauni, Moq.

indiouin, Moq.
SaL-f)la austral is, R. Br.

bracliypteris, Moq.

Fohjgohacese.

Polygonum 1 arbatum, L. 3572, 6 ; also with 3532.

ohinerise, L. 3.i32, between 5 and Q, Turksaia river, 3000 ft.
flacfidnm, Roxh.
Runicx nopalensis, Spr., var. 3539.

Ar^sMocldaceie.

Aristolocbia timorensis, Decne.

Viperacece.

Piper subpeltatiun, Wilhl. 3901. 3G57, 7. The natives eat the leaves
instead of the ordinary siri.
Betle. L.

officinarnm, C. DC.
arborescens, Roxh. 3698 ; V.
arcuatum, Bl, with 3854 ; 10 b.
Feperomia tonieutosa, A. Didr. 3755; in clefts of rocks, 8

516 A NATURALIST'S WANDEBINGS

Laurinese.

Litsea timoriana, Siyan. (Tetranthera discolor, Bl.)
sebifera, Pers, (Tetrantliera lauril'olia, Jdcq.)

6. platvphjlla, BL, 2124, ^, 1 ; 3636,8891, 4074, 9, large tree, 7.
(Cvlicodipiiue) diversifolin, BL 3605, 3605 a, 3673, 4035, 7' 3815,
3853, 10 b.
lUigera dubia, Spun.
Cassytha pubcscens, i?. Br.
Cinnumomuia ? 3655, 7.

Thijmtleacese.

PiMELEA hreviti BA, Fdtcc. (iiov. sp.),— Ileibacca t recta, annua (?), glabr.i,
seraipedalis; fuliis subspathulalis oppositis alteinisve ; invohicris gamo-
phyllis turbinatis 4-5 mm. latis, lobij 4 oviJibus obtusis G 10 mm. longis,
tubo 2-4 mm. iongo ; Horiiius liermapbroditis albis ; pedicellis brevibus
comprcisis ad medium tubuin affixis ; perianthiis involucii lobo brevioribus
aut longioribus, tubo 6-7 mm. Iongo, angusto, post anthesin supra
ovarium ciicumscisso, lobis obtusis l|-2 mm. longis ; S'taminibus 1| mm.
longis, conneclivo angusto; oxocarpio membranaceo ; scminis superficie
nigra reticulat 1, albamine parcu ; imbryouirf cotyledonibus ovalibus, 1 ni.
longis.

This species dift'irs fiom its nearest allies in the involucre aa ■well as,
in other respects, e.f/., from P. cornucopim, Vaiil. and P. punicea, R. 13r.
ill the s!:ort peduncle ani general habit; from F. concreta, F. Jluell, in the
filaments ; and from P. sanguinea, F. IMuell, in the peiianth. It is the only
one at present described as occurring beyond the limits of Australia and
New Zealand. There is a small specimen in the Br. JIus. Herb., collected
on the island of Savu, near Timnr, by Banks and Solander, which is
very like this species in habit, but tlitfers in the involucre, ■which is more
hkethntoHP. jnmiceff, R. Br. 3S2S ; flowers white ; in grass. 10 b.

Wikstrcemia Spano^diii, Deciie.

Drymisperuium laurifoliura, Decne. 4050, 9.

Eleagnacese.

Eleagnus ferruginea, Bicli.'^ 3570; flowers dirty white dotted with rusty
red, 6.

LorantliacesR.

Viscum orientale. W.

articulatnm. Barm., v. timoriense, DC.
Loranthus longiflorus, Desr. 3844, flowers scarlet. 10 b.
cbovatus, BL, vur. minor (R. Brown, Coupang.)
indicus, T)esr.
triflorus, Span.

pendulus, Sieh. 3543 ; parasitic on 3544 ; purple calyx, purple
anther-tips in bud; Q,

Euphorbiaccas.

Daphnipliyllum Zollinger!, MueU. Arg. ? 3807, 3803, 3882, tree, 10 b.
Dodecastemon Teytmimni, 0. timorensis, Miq.
Bridelia ovata, Decne.
Andrachne fruticosa, Decne.

Phyllanthus Casticum, il/MeZZ. Arg. var. 3642, small tree, 7; ^'^^- fasci-
culatus.
reticulatu.s, Poir.

/3. glaber, MuelL Arg.
maderaspatensis, L.

Niruri, L. " Taou.' (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)
Urinaria, L. 3936.

distichus, MuelL Arg. " Sala melee." (R. Brown's list, Cou-
pang.)
nodiflora, MueU. Arg.

IX TIMOR. ol7

Phyllanthus obliqiius, Muell. Arg.

spp. 3802, 3S3i.
Breynia cernua, Muell. Arri.

oblongifolia, Mue'U. Arrj. (A, Cuuuiiigbam, 317.)
sp. 3652.
Croton caudatus; o. dcnticulatus, MutU. Arg.
Codiffium nioluccanum, Decne.
Claoxylon iridiciim, Uasislc.
Ce])lia"locroton discolor ; /3. vireiis, Mudl. Arg.
Gelnnium gloinerulatuin, Husfh.
Mallotas moluccmus, DC. 3745, 8. (R- Brown, Coupang.)

ricinoides, Muell. Arg. 3658 ; young foliage, lake-scarlet, 7.
repandus, var. scalirifblius, Muell. Arg.
scandens, Muell. A rg. (Spanoghe, Coupang.)
Piiiiippinensis, Muell. Arg. 37(!6, 9.
lilifefolius, Muell. Arg. (R. Brown, Cjupaug.)
iiniricatus, Muell. Arg.
JMacaranga Tanaiius, Mnell. Arg.
Acalypba integiifolia, W. (R. Brown's list, Coupang. A. sp. " Tataka.")

bracliystacb5-a. Hornem. 3574:, 6.
Alchomea javensis, 3Iuell. Arg.
Cleidion javanicuui, Bl.
Excoecaria Agalloclia, L.
Antidcsma pamculatuni, ]3l.
Stillingia SL-bifera, Michx. 3G50, 7.
Eupliorbia Ijevis, Poir.

serrulata, Eeinic.

ncriifolia, L. (R. Brown's list. Coupang, "Laous.')
ccngenera, Bl.
thyraifolii, Burm.
Ricinus coainuinis, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, •' Dammar Eude.")
Jatropha Curcas. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, " Dammar.")

TJrticacem.

Sponia timorensis, Decne. 3720 ; Q.

amboinensis. Deem. 3938, 3935, 9 ; 8723, 8,
Celtis timorensis. Span.
Fleurya cordata, Gamlich.

intL-rrupta. Gaudich. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Laportea peltata, Gaudich.
Urera acuminata, Gaudich. (Mauritiu:!.)
Gimrdinia zeylaiiica, Decne.
Pilea luccns, Wedd.
Procris peduuculaia, Wedd.
Fatoua pilosa, Gaud. 3671, 7. (R- Brown, Coupang.)

lanceulata, Decne.
Pouzolzia laevigata, Gai/ff. Mauritius; Timor, _^(?e Decalsuo.

indiea, L. (R. Brown, Coujiang.)
Pipturus argenteus. }yedd. 3742, 8.

int-anus, Wedd. 3686, 40? 8, 7.
Phyllochlarays spinosa, Ed. Bur.
Malaisia toriuosa, Blanco.

Ficus indiea, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang, "Tijka" ; Gaud., " Goudas.")
religiosa, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang; Gaudicbaud, "Goudas."
repens, Willd. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)*
Artocarpus iiitegrit'oliii, Bl. 3777. 4024, 9.

incisn, i. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)

* The species of Ficus collected by Mr. Forbes will bo noticed by Dr. G.
King, of the Botanical Gardens, Calcutta, in his forthcoming illustrated Mono-
graph on the group.

518 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Cudnuiiix javancnsis. Tye'.-. 3731; 8.

Boelimcria plutypliylla, Von, var. 3!(11.

Debrcgeasia loiigifulia, Wedd. 3G35 ; fniit bright orange, 7 ' 3778.
C^isuarinex.

Cflsuaiina motitaiia, Miq. 3514, cf , slopes of valley of Waiinatang Kaimauk,
3200 it., 3746, 8; 3836,10 a; ?, 1.
Caiiferx.

Dacrydium sp. 3855, 10 b.

MONOCOTYLEDONES, by H. N. RlDI-EY, M.A., F.L.S.
Hijdrocharidex.

Ottelia alismoidLS, Iticli. (Coiipang, E. Biowu.)
OrcMdete.

Oberonia glandulifeua, Rldl. (sp. r>cv.).— Acanl^, foliis ensiformibuS cqui-
tantibus acutis 4-uncialibus ; scapo giacili longo imiltilloro; floiibiis
parvis subverticillatis ; bracteis lanceolads acutis serralis; scpalibus ovatis
obtusis iiitegris, petalis subsimilibus ai)guslioribiis ; labello brevi lato
cariiosulo obscure 5-l()bo, lobis lateralibus erectis rolumnain amplecteu-
tibus, lobo medio 3-lobo, ]:iteralibus rotundatis obtusi.-i, medio obscuro
parvo obtuso, margine labelli in biiiubus inter lobos lateral s et lobuin
medium glanduloio ; 35?1, 7 ; flowers greenish-yellow.

Liparis distichn, Lindl.

LiPAP.is ALRiTA, Ridl. (sp. nov.), 3714, 7,— "Flowers orange and light red."
Epipliyta, pseudobulbis {)arvis ovatis viridibus; foliis linoaribus lanceoliitis
siibacuiis petiolatis; caulibus erectis gracilibus: bracteis dissitis ovutis
acutis ; tloribui copiosis parvis; sepalibus liuearibus lanceolatis ; pclalis
linearibus; labello oblongo abrupte detiexo, coslis duabus ad basin ciassis,
lobis lateralibus brevibus erectis cornntis, lobo medio oblongo, triJobo,
laternlibus linearibus convolutis, iiitermedio breviore obtusu; columna
brevi rectiuscula crassa,alis brevibus duabus; capsula i^edicellata globosa.

Dcndrobium affine, Dec.

maerophyllum (Veitchianum.) 3761, 9,
grandiflorum. Ldl. 3820, 10 b.
calophyllum, 7?c/i/>. fil.

Spathoglcttis plicata, Bl. 3504 ; sides of stream Maukuda, near station, 6 •
3923, near 10 ba.

Cyrtopera bicolor. (Eulophia bicolor, Bl.)

Sarcanthus timoriensis, Decne.

(Erides tiraoriaoum, Miq.

Vanda tricolor, JAndl. ; 3794, 9.

Tropidia curcuiigoides, Bl. Foweis white; 3795, 9.

Microtis parviliora, R. Br. 3.')63, 6. This species, of a typically Australian
genus, oc-ur:- also in tlic Loy.dty Islands, the Isle of Pines, New Caledonia
and New Zealand.

Spirantiies austr.dis, R. Br. 3824, 3S25, 38G2, 10 b.

Caladenia javanica, Bpiin..]MS. in Herb. Brit. Mus. ; 3516 [errore 3r)0G] 6.
"Among grass on lo^'ky slope, 8." — Terrestris, cauio crecto hispido; lolio
siiigulo lineaii ; bracteis brevibus ovatis lanceolntis acutis hispidis ;
floribus 2 parvis; pcdicellis quam bractca brevioribus; sepalis oblongis
lanceolatis brevibus acutis hispidis; petalis subaqualibus ; labello la(o
costato purpureo, pustulis flavis oriiato; columna curva purpureo-ornata,
anthera apiculata. Allied to C. carnea, R. Br.

Thelymitra Foebesii, Ridl. (sp. nov.). — Terre^tis, < aule gracili, 5-unciali :
folio singulo anguste lincari glabra 3-unci.di ; vaginis caulinis 2; flore
singulo; bractea ovario ferme icquante lauceolata acuta; sepalis lanceo-
latis linearibus acutis; petalis latiorib;is la iceolatis ; coUi'mia brevi curva
crassiuscula ciliata ; labello 1 ite laiiccolato punctato obluso. Quite
distinct from T. jaranica, Bl., and most nearly approaching the T. ruhrd of
Australia. 3509, 3 ,' flowers purple. Bire banks.

IN TIMOR. 519

Diurjs Fkva:;a, i?/(7?. (sp. nov.), 3508; "flowers yellow"; near 2. — Herba
terrestris; tuberibiis diiobus ovatis; caule crccto gracili i-l-pedali ; foliis
anguste liuearibus aciiminatis loiigis ; floribus panels 1-2 pedicellatis ;
pedicello lougiusculo ; bractea lanceolata loiige acuminata ; sepalo postico
ovato-oljtuso, bast paul'o augustato ; lateralibus linearibus obtusis
porrectis jjarallelis ; petalis ovatis obtusis basi angiistutis; labello elongate
3-lobo, lobis lateralibus obtusis crenulatis venosis orectis, medio longo
obscure 3-lobo costis tribus, duabus lateralibus ad basin, una media
ad apiccni ; marginibus labelli deflexis ; coiunnia brcvi, alls n;ajnseulis,
bnsi diliitata, nou dcnticnlata. Tliis record extends the range of the genus
Diuris, hitiierto otdy known from Au?tialia, to the Malayan region.

[I have taken the libeity of asking Mr. Ridley to mime this interesting
species in honour of the Et. Hon. Lord Justice Fry, who during my travels
in the East, expressed great inter, st in my observations, and who has
given much attention to the Orchidea) and to the question c f tlieir
fertilisation. H. O. F.]

Haben.\kia (Peuistylusj timorensis, Ilidl. (sp. nov.). — Terrestris, tubers
oblongo, foliis b.isalibus duobus ovatis oblongis ; vaginis4-lanceolatis longe
acuniinatis ; sc.ipo subsracili vix pcdale ; racemo laxinscnlo ; lleribus circiter
11 parvis ; bracteis lanceolatis acuniinatis; sepalo posiico cucullato ovato
acuniinato, lateralibus lanceolatis acutis ; petalibus subsimilibus angus-
tioribus: labello obcuncato, breviter 3-lobo, basi[peta!is sepal isque adnatis,
callo carnoso semicircuh^ri, lobis lateralibus lati.s, medio brevi obtuso,
calcare scrotiformi, apiculato co'umna brevissima; anthera lata, loculis
parallelis, polliuiis grouse granulosis, cauiliculisbrevibus ; stigmute breviter
bilobo. Its affinity is with H. spiralis, Wight. 3520, 6. Flowers yellow-
ish-green.

Habeuaria Su.sann?c, Bentli. 3137,1; very sweet nectar at tip of the nectary ;
nectaried S^^-iii. in average length. Fertilised by a species of
Ophiodes and liemigia virhia moths,
grandis, Bentli. 3142, 1, Nectaries with sweet nectar; tl-.c
anthers burst of thcmschcs and pollen fails out as minute
particles,
sp. alf. angustata. Jil.

Herminium angustifolinm, Beidh. In roclcy spols, by side of a stream
35G1, 6 ; :^52i, 6 ; 3515, 6 ; 3823, 10 b.

Scitaminex.

Globba sfrolnlifern, ZoU. Mor. (R. Brown, Coupang.)

Hcdychium coronariiuii. Koen. 3712 a, and. 4113, 7.

Curcuma (prob. sp. nov.). 314G, 1,

Costus speciosus, L. 373.', 8,

Canna indica, L. 3750 and 4009, g. (R- Brown. Couiiang.)

Mu.sa paradisiaca, L.

Hypoxideis.

Hyporis aurea, Loxr. (11. Franciucvillei. Miq.).

liygrometrica, var. pratcnsis, 7^ Br. 35C4, 6. Ilithoi io only known
from Australia.

Amtryllideae.

Crinum asiaticum, lioxh.
Dioscoreacex.

Dio.corea glnbnsn, Boxh. 38 19, 10 a.

pentaphylla, Lam. G, 3G89, 7 ; 3900, 10 a. 5', 4080, G- (R- Brown,
Coupang.)
Tricliodcsma zcylanica, It. Br. var.

TaccacL'K.

Tacca palmata. Bl. 37C5, 9i

pinnatifiila, Font. 4017, 9 ; 3735. 8 ; »om iud. " Telo."

520 A NATUHALIST'S WANDERINGS

Liliacese.

Smilax timojensis, Bl. 3741, 8. Tlie two pairs of umbtls of flowers together
serve cUarly to distinguish it from S. latifoh'a.
* anceps, Willd. — This Muscarine plant was said by Docaisne to have

been collected in Timor l)y Kiedle and Guichenot. Dj Candolle
says that the specimens on which Decaisue ibunded his species are
without flowers and very doubtful. It seems more probable they
belong to S. timorensis, and hardly likely thut a plaut known only
from the Mascarine Islands and Mddagascar should be found also
in Timor.
ErSTKEPHUS TiMOKENSis, Midi. (sp. nov.) — Frutex scandens, caulibua tenui-
bus ; foliis (jlahris alternis lucidis striolatis sexcostatis Lmceulalis minute
apiculatis brevi-petiolatis ; petiolis tortis ; bracteis deciduis jmrvis vagin-
antibus ovatis purpurascentibus ; inflorescentia composita terminali cymosa,
pedicellis florum tenuibus ; bacca snbglobosa nicp-a pericarpio tenui ;
pulpa parva ; seniinibus 1-3 uigrislrovibus politis, oblongis subtriangulatis,
embryone in medio albuminis cornei parura curve. This is a very interesting
plant, of which unfortunately we have not the flowers. The only other
species in the genus, E. Brownii, is a well-known Australian plant, with
pink flowers and orancre berries. 3530, 6.
Laxmaniiia sessiliflora, Decne. Exclusively Australian genus.
Cordyline timoriensis, Bl.

Dracaena timorensis, Kth. (D. reflexa, Decaisne.)
Asparagus racemosus TK. (Asparagopsis Decaianci, Kth.) " Samodok nehau,"

native name. 3800, 9.
Gloriosa superba, L. 3435, 1 ; 3827, 10 a, 3130, 1.

rontederiacex.

Mouorhoria vaginalis, Decne.

Commelinacex.

Aneilema nudiflorum, R. Br. 3548, 6 ; 3789, 9.
Cyanotis crista ta, R. and S. 3724, 8.

Palmie.

Metroxylon Rumphii, Mart.
Arera catechu, Roxb.
Cocos nucifera, L.

Pandanex.

Frcycinctia angustifolia, Bl. (R. Brown, Cou[iang.)

scandens, Gaud. 3577, 6.
Pandanus sp.

Aroid^x.

Typhonium divaricatum, Decne.

sp. fruit. (R. Ijrown, Coupang.).
Arisferaa sp., in fruit only. 3633, 7.

Remusalia vivipara, Scho'tt. 3788, 9 ; on calcareous rocks,
lihaphidophora pertusa, Schott. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Caludium esculeiitum, Schott. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Amorphophallus campanulatus, Decne.

Cijperacex.

Cyperus hyalinus, Vald. CR. Brown, Coupang.) A very rare plant, Ihc
' only other known locality being in Madras,

compressus, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
globosus, All.
lon^ifolius. Pair.
radiatus, Vahl.

scoparius, Poir. ; au African and Mascarene plant,
venustus, R. Br.
pennatus, Lam.

IN TIMOR. 521

Cyperus diflformis, L.

auricomus, Sieh. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
rotundus, L. (II. Brown, Coupang.)
cuspidatus, Vahl. 3598. 7.
ferax. Rich.

diffusus, Vulil. KuDstler.
umbellatus, Benth. 3540, 6.
Kylliuga brevitblia, Uoth. (Coupang, Home.) 3538, 6.

monocephala. Both.
Heleocharis capitata, B. Br.
Seiipus mucrouatnti, L.

supinus, L. (S. luzonensis, Presl; S. timoreusis, Kth.)
Fimbristylis miliacea, Vahl.
ferruginea, Vahl.
complanata, Linh.

communi.'s, Ktli. (IJ. Brown, Coupang.)
var. gracillinia, n. var.

gracillinia; foliis angustissimis glaucis; culmis subpedalibus
tenuibus debilibus ; spiculis parvis SEepius congestis pallidis,
vaginis glabriusculis. 3539, 6,
glomerata, iVees.
barbata, JVees.
Fuirena glomerata, Vnhl.
Scleria scrobiculata Nees.

purpurasce.is, c teudel.
Graminex.

Paspalum scrobiculatum, L. 3472, 1, (R. Brown, Coupang.)

orbiculare, For^t. 3 1 02, 1,
Eriochloa polystacliya, U. B. K. (K. Brown, Coupang.)
Isachne minutula, Kth,

patens. R.Br. 'R.Brown, Coupang.)
Panicuni prostratum. Lam., var. setigerum.
inultiuode, Lam.
fluitans, B<tz.

colouum, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
accrescens, Trin.

sanguinale, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
javanicuni. Pair. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
carinutum. Fresh (R. Brown, Coupang.)
propinquum. R. Br.
helopus, Trin.

cimioinum, Rcfz. (R. Brown, Cmpang).
Setaria verticdlata, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.)

glauca, Beauo. (R. Brown, Coupang.) On reii clay ; 3427, 3428, 1 ;
4081, 8. I cannot distinguish tliese plants tio.n Fanicum ruhi-
ginosum of Steudel.
Oplismcnus hiitillus, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.)

coiiipositus, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Spinifex squarn sus, L.

longifolius, R. Br.
Coix Inclirynia-Jobi, L.
Scleracline punctata, R. Br. (R. Biown, Cuupang ; only once collected

previously in Java by Ilnrsfitld.)
Zca mays, L. (Cult.; R. Bri)wn.)
Saccliarum stennpliyllum, Jiuxi'.

cctiyptiacum, R. Br. (R. Brown. Coupang).
officinale, L. (R. Brown's list, Coupang.)
Erianthus aureus, Xees.
I'egoniitherum criuitum, Beauv. Coupang.
Rottboellia exaltat.i, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Manisuris granulans, Sw.

522 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS

Tlielepogon elegans, Roth. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Pollinia laxa, Nees.
Iscbaiiiium rugosiim, Miq.

mutcium, L.
Hetcropogon cantortus, All. (R. Brown, Coupang.)

insignia, Thir.
Chrysopo:;on aciculatus, Trin. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Andropogon parviflorus, Iloxh. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
seiratus, Relz. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Bladhii, Itetz.
Leschenaultianuni, Dec.
diversiflorus, Steud. (R. Brown, Coupang, )
Apluda aristala, -Box6. 4107, 1.
Anthistiria trondosa, B. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
ciliata. 34S1, 1.
yjilifera, Steud.
Sorghum timoriens^, Buse. 4032, 1.
s-p. ? (R. Brown, Coupang. 1
Aristida, sp. near cumingiana. 34G3, 1.
S^porobolus diandrus, jB. i?r. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Trisetum antarcticum, var. d"iisum. Exactly the form collected by Kirk,

at Port Nicholson, Nortli Island, New Zealand.
Cencliriis cchinatus, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.j
Chlorid trnncata, II. Br.
radiala, Sw.

incomplcta, B ,th. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
barbata, Sw. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
sp. atf. barbata.
Eleusine indica, Siv. (R. Brown, Coupang.)

03gyptiaca, Gaertn. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Cynodon dactylon, L.

Eragroslis Cumhigii, Steud. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
rubens, Lam.

pluniosa, Retz. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
hapalaiitha, Trin.
Koenigii, iS'ers.
Hesuosa, Boxh.
multi flora, Boxh.

amabilis, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
mega.stac'.iya, Nees.
Centotbeca lappacea, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.)
Lcpturiis rcpens, B. Br. CR. hrown, Coupang.)

FiLiCES, by AV. Cakruthers, F.R.S., F.L.S.

Gleiebenii diclictnma, Willd. 3181,1,
Hymen(;pliyllam dilatatuni, Sio. 380tj, 10 b.
'Jrichomanes saxifragoides, Fr. 394G, Q,

rigidum, Sw. 3175, 1.
Lindsa?a en.si folia, Sw. 3179, 1,

Adiantum lunulatum, Burm. 3431, 1 ; 3.5G0, 6 ; 3G15, 7; 3753, 8.
rhizophoruni, Sw. 3527, 6 J 3941, S.
hisp'.dulura, Sw. 3176, 1 ; 3593, 7.
Clicilaiitbes fariiiosa, Kaidf. 352G, 4071, 6.

tenuifoli-i, Sw. 3145, 1,
Oiiychium lucidum, Gpreng. 35G2, 6.
Peflaia geraniifolia, Fee. 3716, near 8 ; •1014, 7.

paradoxa, IJool:. 3918, 10 b.
Pteris loiigifolia, L. 3G90, 7.
vennsta, Kzs. 4019, 7.
crenata, Sw. 3717, near 8.

IN TIMOR. 523

Pteiis pyrophylla, Bl. 4097, 1,

nemorulis, Willd. 3409, 1,

quadriaurita, Retz. 3583, 6 ; 3G94, 7 ; 3948, 7 ; 4005, 1
Doodia dives, ivze. 3701, 7; 3927.
Aspleniura lunulatum. Sic. 3867, 10 b,

falcatiim, Lam. 3692. 7.

caudatuii), Ford. 4063, 10 b.

diaphanum, Bl. 3864. lO b.

steieophylluni, Kze. 3.j9tj, 7,

japoniciiin, Thunh. 3U07, 7.
Aspidium aculeatum, Sic. 3926, 3949, 7.

aii^tatum, Sw. 3606, 7.
Xcphroilium iiniluni, R. Br. 3581, 6.

pteioides, J. Sin. 4095, 1,
Xephrolepis acuta, /'red. 3689. 7.
Oleaudra ueriiformis, Car. 3482, j. 3G93 ; en rocks, 7,
Pol\ podium subauiicidatuni, Bl. 3565, 3568, Q,
Xotholajua hirsuta, Desv. 36SS ; in crevices of rocks, ''/ ; 3937, g,
Gymiiogramme involuta, Don. 3594, 7.
Vittaria eloiigata. Sic. (3642) 3632, 7 ; 3920, 4094, 10 b.
Acrosticliuin spicatiiin. T^iiin. 35;)4, 7 ; 3902, 3914, 10 b.
" Opliiogl jsaum sp.' H. O. l'\, sec p. 447.

INDEX.

Accipiter ruhricollis, 393

Action of crabs ou coral mud flats, 25

Agarhtidie, members of, luiiuicked by
otiicr Lepidoptera, 173

Agassiz, Prof, on coral reefs So, 40 ;
on Tortuga and Florida Ecefs, 37

Affwstemma moiitanum, 78

Albino, Senlior, his kindness, 41G

^/e/uroscf Bum, 31)2,3)1

Alexander the Great, 178, 194; grave
of, 'itJO

Amadina ins2daris, 422

Amhil-anali, a form of nia;r age in fhc
Larapongs, 151 ; in Tassumali Lauds,
19G

Amhh/podia eumdlpua, 137

Amboina, ariival in, 288; first im-
pressions of, 288 ; visit interior of,

289 ; ptople of, 290; chun-hes iii,

290 ; salubrity of, 298; kindness of
the Captain of the Chinese iu, 288,
297 ; Resident of, 288

Air.esiajuven's, mimicking in, 139
Amherstia nohill^, 9
Amnomi decom, 172 ; habits of, 173
Ammma cudnmin, new species. 275
Anioriihopludlus titanuin, 10,175; great

tubers of, 227
Anacropora forhe»i, new genus an I

species of corals fiom Keeling

Islands, 44
An(iph(di.<J(tvanica, 210 1 saxafilis, 210
A)i(ih Daldiii, romance of, 158
Anchors, three, diedged up at IMenado,

48G; list of organisms adhering to

them, 490
Anjer, visit to, in 1878, 11; view of

Sunda Straits from, 11 ; stay at, ICl ;

last look of, 488
A)ion>f utolidua, 32
Antelojje, Sumatran, 172
Anh'unarii, 23
Anthmcocerus convexu», 252
Anthers, two forms of, in Melastoma,

229
Anthropomorphous apes, resemblance

of the Kubus to t'.ie, 243

35

Antlim medlus, 459

Ants inhabiting Myrmeeodia a'ld IIij-

nophijfum, 79 ; at species of Itafflesi-

acex, 206 ; milking winged Hemip-

tem, 251
Appias nero. note on coloration of sexes

of, 130
Apis dorsata, habits of, 478
Api-osmictus huniensis, 393
Araliida Hills, 1
Arachis hypogiea, 392
Arhoropliila personata, 172
Argns pheasants, 130; habits of, 131
Arms of Timorese, 403
Aru, touch at, 300
Alt, unknown to the Kubus, 236;

among Timnr-laiit islanders, 317
Artaxa siinulaiis, mimicry of, 173
Aitistic taste among Solorese, 285
Artocarpui rncisa, 334, 438
Anindina speciosa, fertilisation of, 88,

91-94, 90
Aitparacjus raremosm, 471
Adicfopterus armatiis, 215
Attack.ou our house at Fatunaba, 460

Babirusa in Burn, 407 ; native account

of its habits, 407
Badui, curious jaco of people in Java,

102, 103
Bagu.ila, Bay of, 290 ^
/y«/«j, the, a Lampnig institution, 140 ;

descii))tion of, 141 ; equivalent of iu

Burn, 3,)4
Balik Buinpa, superstitions attaching to

tins troL-, 228
Ball, loot-, in the Lampongs, 149
Jiahiai of Amboina, 29;}
lUnihinia. great beauty of, 252
Bantam. Sidtan of, 144; inlhienco of,

in the Lamitongs, 144; roads in, 52;

Sundanese in, 52 ; ricu cultivation in,

52
Banteng, in Java, 116
Banda, birds in, 287 ; calls at, 286
Jidxsia sji., corollas of, 233
Bastian, Prof, on Wakilo-Burueso, 402

526

INDEX.

Batavia, description of, 5, 7 ; Chinese

in, 7 ; Arabs in, 7
Batracliians in Tiinoi-laut, 337
Bats in West Java, 71
Batu-Brah, houses in the vi]la<?eof, 167
Batii-l'antjeh, village of, 217; coial

blocks near, 217 ; treatment received

in, 217; liouses in, 217; marriages

ill. 218 ; games in, 219
Beads, Timor, 285
Beccari, Dr., 206
Beddome, Colonel, on forest devasta-

fon, 62
Belenois, coloration of sexes of, 130
Bell-birds, their plumage, 58
Beneawang, stay at, 161
Bio, or Javanese {rraelvle, 72
Bibi(,'U9u, stay at, ii'J ; view from, 453;

houses in, 454
Bigin 'J'elok, stay at village of. 253
Bird life on the liujjit river, 238
Biids. near Dill}', 421, 422; near Sauo

ill Timor, 434 ; of Buru, list of, 409 ;

at sea, 4, 5; of Keeling Island, list

of, 44: of Sumatra, list of, 268; of

Timordaut, list of, 355 ; at Wakolo

Lake, 406
Bird's excreta mimicked by spider, 63
Birqiislatro, liabits of, 27
Uirths, illegitimate, in Passumah, 197 ;

ill K'sam, 182
Blacksmiths, native, in Java, GG
Bloo 1-raoney, law as to, 145
Blood brotherhood, ceremony of, in

Timor, 452
Bock, Call, collected bir.ls in Suma-
tra, 268
Boca treuhii, 251 : description of, 279
Bonibus senex, 208; fertilising Mdas-

toma, 228
Bonnier, 31., observations on S'am?)«CMS,

22tJ
Bos hanteng in Java. 1 16
Botia micranthus, 177
Botys dedudalis, 172
Boulenger, Mr., on reptiles and balra-

chiaiis from Timor-laut, 368
Bracliijpter^/x alratus. 209
Krackeii ferns, 397

Bread-fruit trees at Tengah-teng di, 292
Britten, Mr. J., on Timor plants, 499
Brocken, Spectre of the, 213
Brown's, R., plants from Timor, 497
Brugmamia loivii, 154
Brugmunma, new species of, 20-1
Bryophi/Uam cahjcinum, notes on leaves

of, 82 ;
Bubulcus coromamhis, 177
Buceros, spp., 130; gcdeatus, 152;

anatomy of its casque, 153
Buchnera, new species of, 430

Buifido-birds, 55

Buffaloes in 'I'imor-laut, 312, 336

Biiitenzorg, beauty of, 8 ; its surround-
ing scenery, 9 ; its botanical garden, 9

Buini-pailang, halt at, 166

Bur"k, Dr., observations of, on | ollen of
Melastoma, 22.) ; o:i Mynnscodia and
Ilydnophytmn, SO

Burial rites in Kisiim, 1 82 ; in Timor, 435,
405; and places in 'I'imordaut, 322;
ill Buru, 404, 405 ; in Pa^sumah, 1^9

Burliiigs, the, 1

Buru, Ale'furus of, 392; dispersion of
Polynesian races from, 392 ; birds in,
393, 394 ; villages in, 391 ; houses
in, 395; marriage lites in, 404;
death and burial rites in, 401, 405;
superstitions in, 405

Butler, Mr. A. G , on Lepidoptera from
Timor-laut, 375, from Sumatra, 276

Bntvrides jaxKinica, \11

Butterflies collected in Timor-laut, 375

Buxton, Mr. E. C , collected birds in
Sumatra, 268

Cacatua sulpliuren, 421

Calaidhe veratrifoUa, fertilisation of,

84 ; falsely cleistogamous, 85
Calcareous rocks near Liguani river, 481
Callidryas, coloration of the sexes of, 130
Callidula javanica. 172
C(dliplea visenda, 325
Ca lodraco ja cqnin ii. 1 69
Caloperdix oculea, 226
Camhodia, 9
Cambridge, Rev. O. P., on a new genus

of spiders, 63, 119-121
Campnnulacea} in Timor, 430
Canals in Batavia, 5
Caidhecnma cognata, 277
Capriconiis siimatrensis, 172
Captain of tiie Chintse in Amboina,

kindness of, 288
Corpnphaga concinna, 2^7
Carriage, a, in the village of Peng.in-

doiKin, 1S4
Carrufhers. Mr. W., F.R.S , on Timor

ferns, 522
Cattleyas, 10

Cethosia Carolina, new species, 274
Cepltalanthera grandiflora, fertilisation

of, 85
Cerhera lartarea, C. odollam, food-

plauts of Oruithopteraj, 291
Cerillo Pe.ik, 191 ; superstitions about,

192
Cervus liippelaphus, 31 ; equinus, 31
Cethosia lamarckii, 470
Ceyx cajeli, 393

Chttodon in Keeling lagoon, 24
Chanapa sacerdos, 325

INDEX.

527

Charaxes euryolus, 29')

Charm in rrce-fiekls, 170

Chase, the, iu Buru, 396

Children's games in Timor-laut, 321,

322; in Java, 68 ; in Sumatra, 219
Cliildren, treatment of, in Timor-laut,
315, 316, 321; use of dol!s bv, iu
Timor-laut, 321
Chry$oqlosr,um sp., fertilisation of, 95
Church at Wai, imposiog interior of,

29i
Cinchona plmtations in Java, 103
Cinchona leJgcriana, lOS; succiruhra,

109
Cinnyrit hasselfi, description of, 220
C intra, 1

Cissa thalassina in Java, 115
Cladonia vulcanica, 114
' Claik-sheaf ' of Scotland, 170
Classification, scientific, among the

Sundanes^ 54
Cleistogamnus fertilisation of coffee, 75 ;

of chrysoijlossum, 95
Clinteria forbesi, new spejic, des rip-

tion of, 496
Clitorea ternalensis, 2S4
Cloth, native, in Buiu, 404; water-
proofed by tiie natives, 404
Clothing of the Kubus, 23 i
Cloud-etfects, 12

Coat-of-nrms in Padjar-bulan, 180
Cock-fight in Sumatra, 188, 189
Cocoa-nut crab, 27 ; palms, 29
Cocos-Keeling Islands, start for, 1 1 ;
first impressions of, 12 ; object of
author's visit to, 13; narrative of the,
colony in, 13; proclamations of, as
English territory, 16
Ccelops frithii, 71

Cofifee-gardens at Kosala, Java, 70
Coffee, loss on from drought in Java, 73
Coiffures in Timor-laut, 307, 308
Coleoptern, from Timor laut, 370
Culd, efiejt on tiie natives of, 158; on

the Dempo. 212
Coleoptern of Keeling Islands, 30
Coloration of Appins nero, 130 ; Catop-
silia, 130; Ueliomoia cfUiucippe, 130;
of Ganoris, 130 ; of BtlenoU, of lly-
polymnas, 131
Coloration, alluring, in a spider, C3
Coral reef formation, in the Keeling

Islands. 21, .36. 39
Corals collected oa Keeling Islands, list

of. 44-47
Corals killed by exposure to sun, 22
Cordia utthcorddta, 26, 28 ; its seeds

buried by crabs. 20
Conimelyua nndijlora, 334
Commernonia tchinata, use of its bark,
396

Cosmoscarfa jttno, 277

Cross-fertilisation, contrivance for se-
curing, in Curcuma, 247 ; in Mela s-
foma, 229
Cranial characters of the natives of

Timor-laut, 340
Crater-growing plants, 114
Crayracions, 23
Creation, account of the, in Passumali

Lands, 191
Crime, how punished in Timor, 473
Cringier gniturah's, 172
Crustacea from Timor-laut, 382
Crustacean action on coral mud-flats,

2.5, 26, 27
CuUcicapa ceylonensis, 209
Cultivation unknown to Kubus, 236
Cunningham's, Allan, plants from Ti-
mor, 497
Curcuma zerMm5e<,contrivance for cross-
fertilisation of, 247
Currents, sea, in the Indian Ocean, 28
Cuscus, how caught at Paso, 291 ;

ea-ten by pytlions, 291
Cyclones iu Keeling Islands, 17, 30
Cymbidium tricolor, fertilisation of, 83;
stapeloides, fertilisation of,
83
CyiUliid Juliana, curious habit of, 138
Cypliogadra splendens, 303
Cyredis irmie, new species, 274
Cyrestis sp. found near Hoodjoong, 172 ;

percander, 137
Cyrtostachys rendu, a beautiful palm, 9

Dammar trade at Gunung Trang, 1S5,

136
Dampier, his account of Trassi, 61 ; his

voyage to, and his plants from Timor,

497
D.ma, Prof., on coral-reefs, 3G
Dances in the Limpnngs, 146, 149
Dangerous visit to Waitidal, 327
Darwin's, Jlr. C, visits to Keeling

Island.*, 15, 28 ; collection of plants

in Keeling Islands, 28, 42
Datura, 108
Deatli rites in Timor-laut, 322 ; in tlie

Passimiah Lands, 199 ; in Buru, 404
Deformation of iuad in Timor-laut, 31G
Demini, Colonel, 408
Demiefjretta sacra, 33
Dtmpo volcano, plants of, 20G, 207,

208, 210; birds on, 2j7, 210, 212:

colli on, 212
Dendrohium secundum, 208 : )ihala'nop-

sis, £35; antennaium, 335; chrymn'

thum, fertilisation of, 85, 95; cru-

me)i(itun>, fertilisation of, 81
Detidrori/gna guttata, at Wakolo Lake,

406

528

INDEX.

Denudation, oftWts of, 174

Detritus of rivers, 185

Deica, curious petition to the, 230

Dialects of Ea.-t Timor, 490

Ditticulties with natives of Paso, 207

Digits, reduplication of, among Kubus,
241

Dilly, call at, 286; arrival at. 416;
eftects of fever there, 415 ; look tor a
site for a house near, 41tj ; different
races in, 418; birds near, 421, 422;
the aspect of the town, 41 ; leave,
485; new Vaccinmm near, i22

DiplujUodes respublica, 286

Dipttm from Timor-laut, 380

iJipteris horsfieldi, 78, 158, 397 ; in cra-
ters, 114; dibtribution in Java, 114

Dlpterocarpex, 247, 252

Dirge, death-, 223

Diopiea, Kteling Islands, 31 ; Dempo,
212

Disquieting insignia at Timor-laut, 303

Distant, Mr. W. L., descriptions of
Sumatran liltynchota, 277

Ditmar, Prof., on composition of sea
water, 36

Diuris Fryana, 430

Djambi, wish to enter, 240 ; refused
entrance into, 250

Dogs kept by the Karangs, 100 ; by the
Kubus, 236

iJoIichos lahJah, used as food, 438

Dolls used by cliildren in Tiiuor-Liut,
321

Doves, pink-hcndetl, 72

Dragon-Hy mimicked by a butterfly, 139

Dress, royal, in Timor, 447 ; of Soloretc,
285 ; of Timoret^c, 462 ; of natives
of Timor-huit, 312, 313 ; of I'assu-
niahers, 195

Drossra lunata, 422

Drought in Java in 1878, loss from, 75

Drysdale, Mr., in 'I'iraor Cupaug, 281

Dnperry's plants from Timor, 497

Durian trees, 240 ; fruit eaten by tigers
and elephants, 240

D'Urvillc's plants from Timor, 498

Dwellings of Timor-laut islandeis, in-
terior of, 318

Dyes among Timorese, 463

Earthquake, in Java, C3 ; in Keeling
Islandsin 1834,23; in Keeling Islands
in 1876, 22 ; wave. Keeling Islands,
19 ; at the Kaba, 225

Earthenware oi'jccts from Kosala, 98, 99

Earthworms, great size of turrets o.',
227

Ecledus intermech'us, 393

Egerou, visit of SS., to Timor-laut, 301

Egeron Strait, 301

Elephants in Sumatra, 105; fond of

Durian, 240
Eleusine coracana, 392
Englishmen, their repute in Sumatra,

204
Eos retienJata, 304
Epacridiueas, new species of, 438
Eria javensis, fertilisation of, 95; albi-

(1o-tomentosa, fertilisation of, 94
Erlura. camp at, 428
Edrdda flavidiventris, 422
Euchirus longimanus, 291
Eudynami'i ransomi, 393
Enmenes visiting Samhucus, 227
Euplma ochsenheimeri, curious habits of,

138
J- urhinia fulva, 172
Euschemida% species of, mimicking Oph-

thalmis sp., 173
Eusemia helaugeri,odoiiT emittedby, 173

Fah-hian, Chinese pilgrim, 97
l-'aiiy blue-bird, 67
Falls of river Sem;mgka, 167
Famine in Ulak-Tandjong region, 233
Fatuboi, visit to, 469 ; description of,

469
Fatunaba hills selected for a hoiise, 417,

420 ; beauty of the view from, 421
Fawcett, Mr. W., on Timor plants, 506,

515; description of new Vaccinium,

278
Febrifuges uscel in Timor-laut, 330
Fertilisation oi Melastuma by Bombus,

2:i8
Fertilisation of Myrmerodia and Ihjdno-

phytum, 80; of orchids, 82-97
Fertilisation of >S'rtmti(CMS,notoou, 22G,

227
Fever, elangerou3 malarial in Timor-
laut, 330
Ficns aspera, 77 ; cordifolia, 77 ; mi-

crocarpa, 77 ; amplas, 77 ; radicans,

77 ; palitoria, 77
Fields of Buruese tabooed, 403
Fig-trees, beauty of, 77
Fight, cock-, 188
File-fishes in Keeling lagoon, 24
Fire in herbarium drying-house in

Timor-laut, 336
Fishes most eaten in Java, 60
Fish-preserves in rice-fields, 170
Flies on Keeling Islanels, 31 ; on Tcn-

gamus, 159; on Dempo, 210; at

species of MaffleBiaceve, 206
Floating block of land, 486
Floods, efiect of, on Ptupit valley, 239 ;

in river Ogan, 185
Flora at Fij.tuboi, 470 ; of the Kaba,

232 ; along Kawas river, 251 ; along

llupit river, 237, 238 ; on volcanic

INDEX.

529

mountains in Java, 78 ; on Tengamus

mountains, 157, 158 ; richness of

temperate, 1 ; a temperate, in Timor,

440
Floras Timorensis Prodrnmzf, 407
Flowers in tropies, 2ol, 257 ; floating

on river, 254
Flowers and fruit, scareity of on trees in

Javn, 75
Flu(j(jta microcarpa, 206
Flying-fox, long journeys of, 32
Forbes, Mrs., joins mo in Batavia, 283 ;

aids me in Amboina, 291 ; great

favourite with the natives of T^nior-

laut, 30(; ; left at Fatunalw, 42(j, 427 ;

bad news from, 478 ; extract from

her journal, 482
Foreign iniiuences in Bum, 401
Franca, da, Major 283 ; Mr. Bcnto,

41G ; Madame, 484, 487
Fremanlle, Capt. (II.M.S. Juno), pro-
claims Keeling Islands English ttrri-

tory, IG
Forest-devaslation in Java, G2 ; in Su-

matri), 132
French marigold, 440
Fiigate-birds, habits of, 32
Frogs in trees and thatch at Paso, 292
Functions, ditferent, of anthers in

MelasUmuu 229, 230
Fruit, scarcity of, on trees in Java, 75
Fungoid disease on trees in Java, 70 ;

in Timor, 70
Future state, idccs of Pacsumaheis as

to, 200
Galium, 440
Games of eliildron in Batu Pautjeh,

219 ; in Timor-laut, 321 ; in Lam-
pongs, 149
Game-cocks in Hoodjoong, 171
Ganoris, coloration of sexes of, 130
Garson, Dr J. G., on the cranial cha-

lacters of natives of Timor-laut, 340 ;

on tlie Kubus of Sumatr.i, 243, 201
Gaudichaud's plants from Timor, 497
GauUheria hucocarpa in craters, 114;

punctata iu craters, 114 ; rcpens, 78
Giicarcinus, habits of, 21
Gtdong-tetahan, in Sumatra, stay at,

12G-130; attacked by a tiger near,

128
Geikie, Dr. A., F U.S., on coral reefs,

40
Gelpke, Dr. Solewijn, collection of sto:io

iiniilemeiit.s of Java by. 07
Gelasimus, fields of, 294 ; habits of

species of, 25, 2G
Gelan, Wai, village of, in Burn, 395
Genfeiig, in Bantam, stay at. 53
Geological structure of Knniai valley,
432 ; of Kaimauk river, 433 ; of Ve-

birah river, 479; strata near Muara-

Dua, 179 ; of Samoro valley, 471 ; of

Eawas region, 249 ; of Karang-nata

Peak, 251
George's, King, uniform in the Pas>u-

mah Lands, 204
Geocichla macliil.i, 337
Gessir, visit to, 299
Geyser of the Denipo, 211
Gibbons in Java, 70
Gleichenia, 78

Gfloriosa sxiperha, in T mor, 471
Gluta hengltas, eseharotic effect of its

sap, 113
Gold-mines in Rawns region, 210
Gold-searehing ceremonies in Timor,

467
Gold in Timor rivers, 467; in Eupit

liver, 239
Gold coins refused by natives of Tiiuor-

laut, why, 30G
Goitre in Hoodjoong, 171 ; its supposed

cause, 171 ; i:i the IJawas district,

171 ; in Timor, 468
Goochjera proccra, fertil'sation of, 9G
Gordonia rxcelsa, 207
Gorges, singular in Passumali Lands,

192
Gossij2)ium micrnnthum, 403
Governor of Portuguese Timor, 283;

286
Grace of Timor-laut islanders. 322
Graculajavanensis, notes on, 72
Graekle, Javanese, 72
Grave-yard trees ia Sumatra, 169
Guichenot's plants from Timor, 497
Gunung-Megang, burial-ground of, 1S2
Gunung-Trang, ])epper trade of, 135
Gijgis Candida, piloted by, 12, nesting-

lilace, 31

Uahcnaria Susanncs, feitilisation of,
296, 423

Hair, manner of arranging in Timor-
laut, 307 ; vanity of men about,
307 ; eagerne.-s to have it cut in
Timor-laut, 30J ; superstitious fear of
our possessing scraps of their, 309 ;
character of, in Timor-laut i.s]an(lers,
.309; of Bunuse.at Wakolo Lake, 40J

JTalirore australis, 336

Ifalohates (water bugs\ 12

Hanjuang trees, 169

Hare, Mr. Alexander, and his nlatious
with Mr. J. C. Ross, 14

Ilargitt, ]Mr.. on Mirjh/pteg, 56

Harvesting iu Timor, 454; near Hooi
j )ong. 170, 171

Hats, Bantamese, 59; Og.in, 158;
Solorese, 285

Head-flattening i;i Timor-laut, 31G

530

INDEX.

Head-htxnting in Timor, 450
Hebomoia, coloration of sexes of, 130
Hemileia, coftee disease, 71, 76
Hemiptera, winged, milked by ants,

251 ; of Keeling Islands, 31
Henslow, Prof., M\: Darwin's Keeling

plants described by, 2^, 42
Herbarinm at Wakolo lake left behind,

407 ; disaster to, made in Timor-

laut, 334
Herodias nifjripes, 33
Herons in keeling Islands, 33 ; killed

by glntinons seeds, 30
Hesperiidn', habits of butterflies of

family, 63
Heferodes ansonialis, 111
Hoodjoong, villiige of, 169
House at Fatunaba attacked, 460 ;

difficulty in getting a, in Timor-laut,

305; cluster in the Komai valley,

431; in Buru, 395
Home's, Sir Everard, plants from Timor,

498
Homopsiiclie, the genus, 172
Honey-eaters, 304; in Buru, 338; in

Ceram, in Timor, 338
Honey, scarcity of, in Java in 1878, 75
Honey-glands on Samhucus, 226. C27
• Honour door,' order of the, 146
Hornbill, Great, 153, 154
Husband clans in Timor, 457
Huts in trees, their use, 43 1 , 434
Hiialobates leuciscus, 70 ; variegatus,

156
II ijmenoplera of Keeling Islands, 31 ;

from Timor-laut, 380
Ilijdiiopliijtum formicarium, 79, SO, 81
Hildri>rhn (dhriodris, 154
Ihjdrociclda ignicapillus, 154
Hypericum sp. in Java, 112
Hijpohjmnas anomaJa, note on colouring

of, i'M; forhesl, 325; icallaceana, 134
HypotR'nidia striata. 111
Hypoxis hygrometrica, 447

Insect fauna, of Sumatra, additions to,

274 ; of Keeling Islands, 30
Insects carried by cyclone, 30
Irene titrcosa, 67
Ixias Jlavipennis, new s^jccies, 215, 275

Journal, Mrs. Forbes', extract from, 4S2
Janson, Mr. Oliver, description of anew
species of Cetoniidee by, 496

Kaba, crater of the, 230, 231; hot

springs at, 225
Kaimauk river, 439
Kajeli, arrive at, 391 ; description of

town and fort, 391 ; trade of, 392
Kajuput oil, 392

Kaleobar, hostility of the villagers of,
304

Kallima spiridiva, new species, 274

Kamp, Mr. Controller, 234, 240

" Kang-kang " frog, mimicry bv, 155,
164

Karang-Nata Peak, flora of, 251 ; geo-
l"gy of, 251

Karangs or Kalangs, a curious tribe
at Kosala, 99; Iheir worship, 99;
curious customs of, 100

Kc, touch at, 300

Keeling Islands, see Cocos-Kceling
Islands

Keane, Mr., on ethnical relations of
the people of Timor-laut, 311

Kelehoho, rest at Mount, 430

Keiiali, village of, 167; crops in
neighbourhood of, 167; soil near,
167 ; houses in, 168

Kepala Tjurup, camp at, 225,

Kericoiila jnvana, 71

Kero, or thief gibbet, 472, 473

Kisam writing, 181; versiiicatiun, 181;
dress, 182 ; religion, 182 ; burial cus-
tom.?, 182 ; oaths, 182 ; houses in, 179;
coat of arms in a Kisam village, 180

King, death rites of a, in Timer, 437

King, Dr. George, his m' nogiaphon the
figs, 517

Kirby, Mr. W. F., on Hymenoptcra and
Diptera fiom Timor-laut, 380

Komai, valley of the, 430 ; house-
cluster in, 431

Kosala, in Bantam, 97 ; ruins at, 98 ;
the estate-house of, 59 ; iu the Deccan,
97 ; in Sarayu, 97

Kotta-djawa, village of, in Sumntm, 131

Krakatoa eruption, 77 ; earthquake,
wave of, 126; volcano, 488

Kubus, a forest-living race in Sumatra,
233, 234 ; intelligence of 242 ; phar-
macopoeia of, 243 ; traditions of. 243 ;
pedigree of, 244 ; death rites of, 243 ;
their manner of trading, 235 ; no cul-
tivation among, 236 ; no arts among,
236; clothing of, 236; dogs kept
by, 236; features of, 236; physical
characteristics of, 241, 242 ; language
of, 241 ; marriage among, 241 ; in-
termariiage with Malays, 241 ; pro-
perty of, 242

Kuing (or sacred) region in Buru, 397

Laccadive archipelago, 4

Laclo, Eajah'sof, account of, 480 ; priso-
ners at, 480

Lagerstrwmiiu 238

Laibohar Peak, 332

Lainor, Kiijah's of. 479; dwellings at,
479

INDEX.

531

LamiMse, clesci'iption of a species of,

276
Lampongs, the, in S. Sumatra, female

oniameDts in, 12G, 147 ; feasts in,

147: mariiage customs in, 150; its

language, 141 ; alphabet and cha-
racters, 142
Lampongers, descent of, 141 ; titles

among, 143 ; dances iimong, 14G, 149
Lamkitcs. mcde of fighting of, 451
Laniellusleucogrammicua in Java, 115
Landslips as the etttctof rain, 115
Lantana, flowers of, insects attracted

by, 134
Larat. t;ibbcted heads ard members

on the islet of, 302
Larantuka. call at. 284
Lash, ]Mr. H., his kindness and aid, G8
JAita, the curious disease called, G'J, 70
Land, block of Hoating, 48G
Laicang Koree, oider of, 146
Laws in Timor, 456
Lnyard, E. L., on weaver-birds, 57
Ledger's, IMr., account of introduction

of cinchona seeds, 109
Leisk, Mr., at tiic Keeling Islands, 15
Leoharhus, species of, 177
Lepar, Sumatran game, 210
Lepidoptera from Timor-laut, 375 ; of

Keeling Islands, 31
Leptocirciis virescens mimics a dragon-

tiy, 139.
Leptoptilus, in Sumatra, 177
Lepturns repens, aid < f , in leclainiing

land from the sea. 26
' Les Nectaires' (51. Bonnier), 226
Life on the Sumatrau rivers, delights

of, 257
Liguani river, 480
LiminUts hochri. '^15
Limun, tl e gold of, 249
Linga and Yoni, worship of, at Kcsala,

101
Linsang gracilis, caught swimming. 255
Lintang river, raft joumey on, 215;

scenery along, 216
LipfuidiK, miniicrv in, 173
Lohila grawlis, 277
LniiKiptera timoren»is, 417
"• Long-age ' whortlelx?rry, 210
LiHicrcu.s process-ion in Sutna'ra, 175
Lull, or labon, 431 ; Vma-Jjuli, the

sacred iuslitutiou of the Timorese,

424
Lulled ground, as rich botanical pre-
serves, 454
Luminosity of the forest, wonderful,

164
Luntar, village of, 183; feast in, 183
Lusciitioia J'uliginivenfris. 212
Macacus cynomologuH in Timor, 471

Machik, Dr. and Madame; their kind-
ness, in Sumatra, 126 ; in Amboina,
299, 339, 408

Macluer Inlet, New Guinea, behaviour
of natives of, 300

Mafra, 1

Macr(,phthalmns, 25 ; habits of, 26

Mahori races, dispersion of, from Buru,
392

:\ralay dignity, 246

Malays,intermarriageof,witliKubus, 24

Malay bear, 255

IMalawar, Mount, in Java, 108

INIaldive Archipelago, 4

Mammalia of Sumatia, Mr. Walla( e
on, 1(J5

iMaintnalia in Keeling Islands, 31

Mangifera fcetida, 23ii

Margn, Sumatran communal division,
142; its laws, 142 ; its divisions, 143

Markhams, Mr. Clements B., cinchona
mission, 110

iMiirket, native, in Bantam, 59; in
Timor, 461

Marriage customs, in Batu-Pantjeh,
218; curious, in Timor, 457; in
Lampongs, l.'iO; and lites in Timor-
laut, 315; in Buru. 404; the cere-
mony among Passumahers, 196

Marriage, author's, 283

]\Iaru, mv men pay a collecting visit to,
329

iMatriarchal descent, evidences of, in
Lampongs. 151 ; in Tassumali Lands,
196 ; in Timor, 4.i7

Matalcau, sacred edifice in Buru, and
contents of, 305

iMatclies, paralHn. wide use of, 152

iSIaukuda river, 440

Mauiais quart d'heure, in Timor-laut,
330

M'-gacriodes forhesii, 27G

Megaloplirijs uusuta mimics dead leaves,
155 ; in coitu, 155

Megalurus amhoiiiensis, 295

Melaniiis stiradevn, 172

Melastomo, it.s fertilisation, 229; o:i
the Kabii, 228

Mdettia, 237

Menado, call at, 48G

Mernps pliilippiiiux, 4 ; sumatranm, 247

Metroxylon jihin^, 393

Meyer, Dr. A. B., on birds from Timor-
laut, 355

Microhiernx fringillarius, 56

Miers, J., 'Mr., oncrustiicea from Timor-
laut. 382

Miglijptes tristis, 56 ; grammtnithorax,
5 >

^Migration of8nipc,34; teal, 34; weaver-
bird, 34

532

INDEX.

Mimicry amonj;; Lepidoptera, 133, \1?> ;

in birds, adcMioaal example of, 338 ;

in a spider, (i:!
Missiouiiries, Catholic, 480
Mitrosacme sp., 452
Mixture of races in Timor-laut, 311
Moens', Dr., oxpaviments on ciachom,

109
Months, names of the, in Timor, 489
Muara-Dna, trade of the t )wu of, 178 ;

geolosical strata near, 179
Muara-Inini, tjwn o'', its importance,

191
Miiava-Mengkulem, Sfjourn ft, 2r0
Muara-ltupit, town of, 239 ; its im].or-

tance, •/39, 240
Miiller, Fritz, on fertilisation of Melas-

toma, 229
Miiller's, II , observations on Samhu-

cus, 22G
Munia imllida, 422
Muntok, cull at, 2t;0
Murr.iv's, jMr. J., theorv of coral reefs,

3G, 37, 40
Murcenoids, 23
Munscenda frondoia, 422
Musical performance in Burn, 3^0
Mydaus, badfcer-htaded, distribution

of, in Java, 115
Mi/dansmelice}}?, 114; distribution of,

115
Mijiagra rjaleaUt, 2^4
Mi/ophoneus melanura, 172; dicrorli/jn-

chus, 172
Mijristicivora hicolor, 295 ; r.iclnnui\t,

393
Mijrmecodia tuherofa, 70 : sp., 295
Mijzomda annahdlx, 338; vulnerata,

422 ; wakoloens-'if, 40j

Napalditjin, vdlnge of, ?51

Natives of Amboina, chaiacter of, 292

Native mimes for plants, 54, 55

Nectaries, floral, 220 ; long, of Hahena-
ria, 29G

Negiito race, Kubus not of the, 244

Negritoes in Timor, 4G7

Nene FoijaiKj, or stem-forefather, re-
verence of," in Passumah, 198 ; in
Ta'idjong-Xing 224 ; oath over his
grave-sto:ie, 2^4

New Guinen, land in Blacluer Inlet
in, 30)

Ntropsiltamis euleles, 421

Neosalica forhesi. 277

Nepenthes phyllamphora, IS

Nicholson, Mr. F., Papens in Ibis ot)
Sumatran birds, 56. 2GS

Nubility, the, of ttie Larapongers, 115,
148

Nocturnal habits of Apis dorsata, 478

Nutmegs, the gathering of, 287 ; a

delightful article of trade, '28G
Nutmeg, gardens of, in Banda, 28G
Nijcliorms amicta, 129
Nijdicorax caledonicas, 33
Nyniphalidee, new, from (Sumatra, 274

Oaks on Rupit river, 237 ; on Rawas

river, 252
Oaths, of Kisam people, 182 ; among

the Passuinahers, 193 ; in Burn, how

taken, 395 ; taken over a stone, 198 ;

in a circle on the ground, 199 ; by

drinking water, 395
Observation, powers of, nmong Sun-

danese, 54
Ot'i/poda, habits of, 2G
Odour emitted by Eusemia helanjeri,

173
Coiidang-oondang (or laws of the

Maria), 142
Ogan valley, calcareous hills in, 185 ;

carvings, 18G
Ogan river, 183, 184
Ophrys apijera, fertilisation of, 85, 95
Ophthalmis lincea, mimicry of, 173 ;

decipiens. mimicry of, 173
Orchid feitilifcation, 82-97
Orders nmong the l.ampongers, 145
Oreodoxa oleracen. 10
Orescius guuldi, 172
Oriolus decipiens, 337 ; huruensis, 393 ;

maculatus, 5G
Ornaujents of Passumahers, 195 ; of the

Lampongers, 147; in Tiniordau*,

313; of the Timorese, 4G2
Ornithoptera brnol;eana, 227 ; priamus,

291 ; remus, 291 ; amj^hri/sus, 139
Ornithoptera at Pas^, 29i ; feed on

Cerhera flowers, 291
Ornithoscatoides decipiens, new genus

and species of spider, G3, 119, 12U, 21G
Orlhoptera of Keeling Islands, 31
Ostcological characters of Kubus of

Sumatra, 243, 244, 2GI
Osirx:i, fossil, in Java, G3

Padang-UIak-Tandjong, village of, 225

Padjar-bulan, carvings and coat of arms
in village of, 180

Paganism in the upland plateaus ( f
Sumatra, 191 ; in Passumah, 198

FaLTornis longicauda, 247

Palembmg, arrival at, 257; construc-
tion of the town, 257, 160 ; population,
259 ; trade, 259 ; rivers o'", 178

Fandanus csramicus, 403 ; heliocopus,
255

Pandans on the Kaba, 232

Pangolin, habits of, 115

Pangium-lrees, load of fruit on the, 238

INDEX.

53^

PaniBthia simulans, mimicry by, 173
rancfliat, or title in tlic Lampougs,

144:

Panthous cocalus, 277 ; talus. Til

Pantjalan, or iia;ive boats, how made,
255

Pupil ion id fc,, new, from Sumatra!, 27-t

Papilio forbesi, 177, 275 ; alboliiieatus,
new bpecics, 275 ; itam-pufi, new
specie's, 177, 27G; saturnm, 27G;
diaphantus, 215 ; aherrcuis, 303 ;
lUijsses, 295

Papuans in Timor, 4G5

Paraffin matelios, wide u«c of, 152

Parus timorciisis, 450

Paso, stay at, 280; its Eajab, 20.0;
superstitiuna > t, 200

Paspulum, species of grass, 4'28

Passumah Lainls, appearance of, from a
distance, 102; gorges in, 102; de-
scent of tliu inhabitants, 104; thea-
trical ijcrformances in, 104 ; account
of the creation in ilie, 104

Pas^UDialiers, dress of, 105 ; ornaments
of, 105 ; marriage among, 106 ; re-
ligion of, r.'S; outlis of, 108; their
descent, 104; mental and jiliy-^icd
cliaracterittics of, 105; death customs
of, 100

Passumah-Tj'lu-Manna, 20 1

Pan, on the Uenipo, 103; stay :.t, 255

Peak of Laibobar, 332

Pecten, fossil, in Java, G3

Pemjihis acidula, aid of, in reclaiming
land from sea, 2G, 28

Pengandonan, Nillnge of, 185

Pcnanggnngan, stay dt, 130

I'eiigelengan, village in Java, 103

Pentacitrotus tmnsrersa, 172

I'epadon, tlie order of tiie, 145

Pepper Irauo in S. Sumatra, 127;
at Gumnig Trnng, 135

PeriophthahintK. 201

Peristylis riridis, fertilisation of, 85

Pdrxa o>-/wreo, occuircLce cf, in Java,
78; in Timor, 78

Pcrsecutioa of PapUionidic by Pieridx,
134

Petrasovitex in Burn, 514

Petroleum, wide use of, 152

Plutjus blumci, fertilisation cf, 85-8',
04

Phal,i:iiopsis (imabiliif. 10; grandiflora, 10

Pliallic W(irsliii) at Kosalii, 101

PhaeioH cnndiduit, 33

Pheidole juvana, ant inhabit'nu: Mijr-
nierodla ami Ifi/dnophi/tinn, 70, 81

I'hilemnn, 301 ; limorldoeusig. 421, 337 ;
violurrenifiit, 303 ; timonw-is., 421

Piiosi)horesccnce in the Amboina Bay,
20U

Fliraffmcdxcin arundinis, 178

Pieridm fertilising Sambucui, 227; os
persecutors of PapiUonidie, 134

Pig-roasting in Burn, 308

Pisonia inermis on Keeling Islands,
30 ; its seeds carried by birds, 30,
33 ; seeds fatal to birds, 30

Pitcher-plants, 78

Pitta venusta, 22G

Plants from 'J imor laut, b'st of, 354

Plants of Keeling Island, list of, 42, 43

Plantago major in Java, 112

Platijlophus coronatus, G7 ; rjalericula-
tus, 67

PJoceus liypoxantlius migrating to Keel-
ing Island, 34 ; rest of, 5G

Pnoepyga j^utfilla, 207

Poisoned water, outburst of, in Keeling
Island, 10. 40

Poiionous fishes, 24

PoIiR'tHs liiimilis, "^52

Pollen, ditferent kinds of, from different
forms of antlu r in Melastaina, 220

Polyandry doubtful in Pomaiorhinus
moiitanus, 72

Polynesian laccs. dispersion of, 302

Polynesiaiis in Timor, 4GG

Pohjplectron chalcnrurtis, 172

Pomatorhinua monturnis, l.abits of, 72

Pomali sign in Burn, 400

Porphyria melanojterus, 394

Portuguese words in Jlalay, G

Portuguese language, permanence of,
417

Prisoners at Laclo, 480

Protective resemblance in Ptilopus
ductus, 450

Protoparce orientalis, 423

Pteropus, long iourneys of, 32

Ptilopus cinctus, 450; jHolectivo re-
semblance of. 450; diadematus 2S7 ;
porphyreus, 72 ; n-all<tcii, 325

Pumice-stone-tuft' jdafeau near Kenali,
IGS ; pumice at Timor-laut, 332

Python preys on Cuscns, 292

Quelch,]\Ir. J. J., 40G; list of corals from

Keeling Islands by, 44-47
Quetta, SS. retuin to Europe in, 488
Kaces in Tiinoi', 418; rubhaiied lace,

4G4; Malays. 4 GG
Eaftles, Sir Slamlonl, his memory in

Snmatia, 201; liaily, IMcmoir of Sir

Stamford by. 2G8
Pajjhxia sp., 10
Uajjksia ariioldi, 154
Jlufflt'siiicviv, 215 ; new f<prcics of, 20G
Haft JDurneys, on rivorl.intang. 215 ; on

Musi river, 217 ; on IJupit river, 237
Pi;iins, eflect of be;ivy, in Keeling

Islands, 40; denuding tffect of, 115

534

INDEX.

Eain, effects of, IT-t

iZa/.- ;Y, (.oiiihined house and boat, 1S3;
my, down Kawas and Musi, 252-
2G0; how managed, 253; pleasures
of a journey in, 255-257 ; dangers,
255 ; price of a, 258

Ballus philippensis, 31

Kanau district, chiefs of, 17G ; lake of,
176; temperatures of lake of, 177;
Eanau tobacco, 170

Eats, iJaguo of, at Fatunaba, 484

Eawas region, dances of, 217; goM-
mines in, 249; people of, 24G ; dig-
nified bearing of chiefs of, 24(j

Eawas river, bird life along, 252; flora
on banks, 251

Eed-haired race in Timor, 461

Eegal succession in Timor, 458

Eeinwardt's ])lants from Timor, 497

Eeligion of tiie Passumuhers, 198

Remigia virhia, moth at Fatunaba,
423

Remusatia vivipara, 470

Eeptiles and batrachians from Tlmor-
laut, list of, 368

Ehiiioceros in Sumatra. 158, 105

Rhinocichla mitrata, 22G

Rhinococcijz curciiontris, 5G; javensis,
56

Rhipidura rvfiventris, 459

Rhododendron imiyniflorum, 208 ; re-
tusiim, in craters, 114 ; tuhijlorum,
159 ; malayannm, 159

Rhyndiota, detcriptioiiof, from Sumatra,
277

Rhijtidocerus sidirufficollis, 252

Eiang Peak, its geological structure,
185

Eice cultivation in I'antam, 52 ; at Kot-
ta-djawa, Sumatra, 131, 132; utar
Kenali, 1(J8

Eice, loss on, from drought, iti Java, 75

Eice-field charm, 170

Eidley, Mr. S. O., list of corals from
Keeling Islands hy, 44-47, 406

Eidley, Mr. H. N., description of new
plants by, 513

Kiedel, Eesident of Amboina, his con-
" duct towards us, 288 ; his action ne-
cessitates our leaving the Moluccas,
408; tliis repudiated by the Dutch
Government, 408 ; his plants from
Timor, -idS

Eiedle''s plants from Timor, 497

Eitabel, camp in village of, 302

Eoads in Timor. 428, 432, 433, 467

Eoss, Sir J. C, 15

Eoss, Mr. G. C, 13

Eoss, J. C, founder of Keeling Colony,
15

Itiihus Uneatus, 114, 208

Eupit river, vegetation along, 237, 238 ;
its bird life, 238 ; scenery along, 238 ;
gold in, 239

Saddle and bridle of Timorese, 449

Saluki. visit to, 4G1

Salvadori, Count, on riati/lophis rjdleri-

culatus, 67 ; on Burn Lirds, 409
Samhucus javanica, 226, 227 ; visited

by Eumenes, 227 ; visited by Pieridie,

227; racemosa, 226
Saparua, visit to, 299
Sauo, curious rocks at, 433 ; house-
cluster at, 435
Sautier's plants from Timor, 497
Saore herdundun, Passumah marriage

service, 19G
Sawah mountains, 161
Scarcity of flowers and fruits in trees i.i

Java, 75
Scars burned on limbs by natives of

Timor-laut to ward of small-pox,

313
Scarus, 21 ; poisonous species of, 24
Schiznstachium durio, 471
Scheffer, Dr., 51. 103
Sciuropterus, 137
Sclater, Dr. P. L., on Philemon,338 ; on

birds of Timor-laut, 355
Sculptured figures in Passumah Lands,

201, 203; their origin, 202
Sea, depth of, at mouth of Palcmbang

river, 260
Seals, native ideas about, 205
Seeds buried by ciab?-, 26
Sekaicang, coroila-< cf, 233
Seleucides idbti, 28G
Self-fertilisation in orchids, 85-67
Semangka river, journey along tiic, 162 ;

falls of, 167
Semper, Piof., on coral reefs, 36, 37, 40
Sero, or fish maiso, 289
Servants, difficulties with, at Fatunaba,

423
Sesalw, order of the, 146
Setaria, species of grass, 428
Slieep on Keeling Island, 31
Siamanga sijndactyla, 70, 129 : young

tame, 156 ; its interesting habits and

death, 160
Sibia similUma, 22G
SibisMC, Peak of, 12
Silicified trees in Java, G3
Simotes forhesi, 337
Sipliia hanjumas in Java, 115
Siabung, bridge ovt r the river, 178
Slaves in Timor-laut, 312
Smith, Christoplier, his plants from

Timor, 497
Snakes in Timor-laut, 337
Snipe in Keeling Islands. 34

INDEX.

535

Sohale, IMount (in Timor;, ascent of,
474 ; flora of, 475 : summit sacred,
475 ; view from, 47 G

Solorese in Cupany^ (Timor), 285 ; tlieir
dress, 2S5 ; artistic taste among, 285

Songs, harvest, in Timor, 454

Boporific powder, recipe for native, 245

Sowing of the seed in Timor, ceremonies
attending, 455

Spanoglie's plants fiora Timor. 497

Spnlhocflottis plkata, fertilisation of,
89-91

Spectre of the Brocken, 213

Spider, alluringly coloured, G3

Spider-eater, 233

Springs, hot, at Eaba, 225

Stanley's, Captain Owen, account of
Timor-laut, 301, 302

Sterculia jtxtida, '334

Stone implements in Java, G7

Stone, oath over a, 199

Sturnopastor iaJla, liahits of, 55 ; melan-
opterus, habits of, 55

Stijvax suhpaniruhttum, 207

Sugar, loss on, from drought, in Java, 75

Sulir.u, village of, 175

Suku, or division of village in Sumatra,
143

Sula piscatn'x, habits of, 32

Sumatra, disposition of hill and plain
in, 126

Sunda Straits, 4 ; sunsets in the, 12

Sundanese people, 52 ; language, 53; as
naturalists, 54

Superstitions, at Paso. 290 ; about Dem-
pn, 213; in Burn, 405 ; in Timor-laut,
as to hair, 309; as to partins with rela-
tive's cranium, 30!* ; in Java about
wild dogs; lUi; about krisses, 117;
about trees, 137

Surabaya, call at, 488

Suringar, Prof, 8

Snrulangun, slay at, 240 ; meet Kubus
at, 240

Sni/a nlbigulfiris, 209

Simngi or c\i\ spirits, belief in, in Timor,
429, 438 ; in Burn, 405

Synanthemitm in rice fields, 170

Tahat (fresh-water ponds near Mount

Dempo), 214
TaJit'du (ilance) in Timor, 451
Titcln/petes minor, habits of, 32
Titijiti's patnhi, 440
Tandjong-Xing, village of, 221 ; great

forest near, 222 ; lose a man by a t'gcr

near, 222
Tangalunga in Timor-laut. 312
Tatooing in Timor-laut. 313
Tea from Aunphil!,', 210
Teal in Keeling Islands, 34

Tebbing-Tinggi, town of, 221

Tehula, Mount, 430

Telok-betong, town in Sumatra, 125,
161

Tenaris buruensis, description of, 411,
398

Tengamus, ascent of Mount, 139, 157;
flora of, 158

Teiijrah-tengali, call at. 292

Tenimber Islands (.«^e Timor-laut)

Terias laratensi-^, 325

Terpsijphone ajlini.%

Terraced hills at Kosala, 97

Terratas, stay at, 157

Ternstroemacen', 228

Tetranthera citntta, 78, 228

Teysmannia altifrons, 10

Tevsmann, Mr., 9 ; his plants from
Timor, 498

Thieves' calendars, 244

Theatrical performance, embryo. 194

Theories as to coial reefs, 36

Thomas, Mr. O., on a new bat from Java,
71, 118

Tliomisus declpiens, 63

TiuereatingDurian fruit,, 240; attacked
by a, 128 ; lose a man by a, 222 ; tiger-
trap, 223 ; persistence of, after quarry,
223 ; wiiiness of, 223 ; superstitions
about, 224; hatred of, 224
Tilu, Mount, in Java, lOS

Timorese tiie, their dyes, 463 ; great
drunkards, 437, 4'J4; vendettaamong,
464 ; character of the, 419, 424, 429 ;
food of the, 438; burial and death
rites among, 437 ; arms of, 463 ;
dress of, 462 ; ornaments of, -162 ;
carvings by, 464 ; tiieir sacred in-
stitution of the Lull, 442
Timor, East, territorial divisions of,
425; dialects of, 425 ; description of
country, -132, 433 ; dialects spoken
in, 490 ; law in, how exercised, 473 ;
death and burial rites in, 435
Timor-laut, start for, 298 ; first im-
pressions of, 303; its flatness, 332;
want of hills and streams, 332 ; de-
rivation of name, 331 ; dangers in,
304, 327; hardships in, 338; pleasured
in, 339 ; isolation when Iti, 339 ; its
fauna, 336 ; reptiles in, 3:]7 ; floral
features of, 303, 334 ; natural pro-
ducts of, 306 ; friendliness of natives,
305; maiic'iiK quart (Vlteure in, 330

Timor-laut islande.'s, artistic ability of,
317 : appreciate bright colours, 3l7 ;
dwellings of, 318 ; grout drunkards,
328 ; burial rites and ))laces of, 322 ;
stature, colour of skin, 310; facial and
cranial characters of, 310, 311, 310 ;
moral characters of, 313, 314, 319,

536

INDEX.

320 ; food of, 314 ; religion oF, 314 ;

marriage laws and rites of, 315 ;

departure from, 339
TiohmomoD, pasi through villa^je of,

140
Titles in the Lampongs, 143
Tjipanas hot springs, 67
'J ra^iijcomus ochrocephalus, 36
Tradiir/, manner of, of the Kubus, 235
" Trassi," native condiment, 60
Trepsichrois mulciher mimicked by

Amesia, 139 ; van-deventeri, new sp.,

274
Trcub's, Dr., observations on Myrme-

coclia and Hydnophytnm, 82
Truntalis eiiropxa, 78
'I'ringokles, 177
Tropical vegetation, 128
Tropic bird, 33

Tro'jons, colour in feathers of, 172
Turrets, earth-worm, 227
Turskain, R tjah's of, flora near. 443 ;

arrival at, 441 ; the Rijah of, 447
Twecddale, Lord, on birds of Sumatr.i,

2G8

Uma-hdi (in Timor), 442; account of,

443-445, 447
XIpas tree, notes en, 112
Urostifjma microcarpum, 77 ; consocia-

tum, 77
Uro'tigma tree, giant in Lampongs, 153
Urtica ovalifolia, nsod to cure fatigue,

397

Vacciniaeese near Dilly, 4Z2
Vaccinium floribundum, in craters, 114 ;

forhesi, a new fpecies, 209, 210, 278
Vania insignis, 471
Van (ler Wei'le, ^lajor, 408
Van Djvtnter, Jusf.cc and Madame,

408
Vanity of men of Timer laut about

their hiir, 307
Versification in Kisam., 181
View going up the Dempo, 210
Vinca rosea, 284

Viola alata, in Java, 112 ; patrinii, 430
Vocabulary of Timor words, 4^*1
Vocabulary of Ke' and Timor-laut

Avords, 383
Volcanic flora in Java, 78, 114

Wai-apu river, 393

"Wai, Bay of, great beauty of submarine
gardens in, 293

Waitidal, visit to, 327

Wakolo lake, superstitions about, 405 ;
storms on, 401! ; uo fish in, 406 ; bird.-)
of, 406 ; herbarium from, lost, 407 ;
natives about. 401, 402; their physical
characters, 402; ornaments of, 402 ;
dre.ss of, 403

Wallace Cliannel, in Timor-laut, 331

AValiace, IMr. A. R., collected birds in
Sumatra. 2GS ; plants from Timoi-,
498 ; on birds of Burn, 409 ; on great
mammalia of Sumatra, 165

"War ceremonies in Timor, 445-44G,
450, 4ol

Wasilale', camp at, 393 ; dwellings at,
399

Waterhouse, Mr. Char'.e.j O., on Cole-
optera from Timor-Jait, 370 ; de-
scriptions of iiiS3cts by, 276

"Water-lilies in the ]ice-tields, 170

Waterproofing in Burn, 403

Water roads in Sumatran forest, 254

Wau-wau Gibbon, 70

Wave, earthquake, Keeling Islands in,
19

Wayang, Mount, in Java, 108

White ants, 73, 74

Wliite-eyes (.Zosterops), 210, 212, 394 ;
in Banda, 287

Whortleberry, "Long-age," 209, flO

Wife-clans in Timor, 457

V/i!d dogs in Java, 116; native
accounts of habits o*", and super-
stitions about, 116

Wiles', James, plants from Timor, 497

Wollastonia (ixperrima, 447

Woman, position of the, in Passumah,
196; in T.nior-laut, 315; in Burn,
400; in Tim. r. 463

A\ oodcarvingin Kenal', 168 ; iuKisam,
180 ; amon'_' Timorese, 464 ; in Ti-
mor-laut, 317

Words, Buiuts?, 411

Xeropteryx simplicior, 177
Xylocopa, 72

ZdliuR cyanopterus. mimicry in, 72. 73
Zippel's plants from Timor, 497
Zizypliiis jvjidia, 480
Zosterops, cidoris, 287; chhrata, 210,
212 ; fertilising Vaccinium, 210

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Prime's Boal-Life in Egypt and Nubia.

Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia. By William C. Prime. Illustrated.
12mo, Cloth, §2 00.

Vambrcy's Central Asia.

Travels in Central Asia : being the Account of a Journey from Teheran
across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian, to
Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the year 18G3. By Au-
MiNius Vambekv, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth, by whom
he was sent on this Scientific Mission. V.'ith Map and Woodcuts. Svo,
Cloth, $4 50; Half Calf, $G 75.

4 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

Thomson's Malacca, Iiido'Cliinii, and China.

The Straits of Malacca, ludo-Cliina, and China ; or, Ten Years' Travels,
Adventures, and Residence Abroad. By J. Thomson. With over 60
Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00.

Thomson's Sonthern Palestine and Jernsalcm.

The Land and the Book : Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By Will-
iam M. Thomson, D.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Pal-
estine. 140 Illustrations and Maps. S(iuare 8vo, Cloth, $G 00 ; Sheep,
$7 00 ; Half Morocco, $3 50 ; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.

Thomson's Central Palestine and Phoenicia.

The Land and the Book : Central Palestine and Phoenicia. By William
. M. Thomson, D.D. 130 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth,
$6 00 ; Sheep, $7 00 ; Half Morocco, $8 50 ; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges,
$10 00.

Thomson's East of the Jordan.

The Land and the Book : East of the Jordan. By William M. Thom-
son, D.D. Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo. {Nearly Ready.)

Schliemann's Ilios.

Ilios, the City and Country of the Trojans. The Results of Researches
and Discoveries on the Site of Troy and throughout the Troad in the
years 1871-'72-73-'78-'79; including an Autobiography of the Author.
By Dr. Henry Schliemann, F.S.A., F.R.I. British Architects ; Author
of "Troy and its Remains," "Mycenaj," &c. With a Preface, Appen-
dices, and Notes by Professors Rudolf Virchow, Max Miiller, A. H. Sayce,
J. P. Mahaff3^ H. Brugsch-Bej^ P. Ascherson, M. A. Postolaccas, M. E.
Burnouf, Mr. F. Calvert, and Mr. A. J. Duffield. With Maps, Plans, and
about 1800 Illustrations. Imperial 8vo, Cloth, $12 00 ; Half Morocco,
$15 00.

Schliemann's Troja.

Troja. Results of the Latest Researches and Discoveries on the Site of
Homer's Troy, and in the Heroic Tumuli and other Sites, made in the
year 1882, and a Narrative of a Journey in the Troad in 1881. By Dr.
Henry Schliemann, Author of "Ilios," »&;c. Preface by Professor A. H.
Sayce. With 150 Woodcuts and 4 Maps and Plans, pp. xl.,434. 8vo,
Cloth, $7 50; Half Morocco, $10 00.

Published by HAEPER & BROTHERS, New Yoek.

t3" IlARrEU & BuoTiiEKS wUl send any of the abnve worJcs h;/ mail, pontajc prepaid, to any
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