DA
IPtW6|
Class 11 AG c Book TPtW^l-
Sr l4JVjD2Zj£IV& tower
JtOUL
Sect/or c£ & erect ~.
NETTLETON'S
GUIDE
TO
PLYMOUTH, STONEHOUSE, DEVONPORT,
AND TO THE
NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY;
WITH DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS OF THE
DOCK YARD, NEW VICTUALLING YARD, BREAKWATER AND EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE;
( Illustrated with three Maps and numerous Prints.)
WRITTEN rOJl THE PROPR'ETOR BY
GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect.
#lgmoutf) : PUBLISHED BY EDWARD NETTLETON,
( Ptintei to His Majesty and to H.R. H. the Duke of Sussex}
WHIMPLE STREET ;
AND SOLD BY W. COLMAN, FORE-STREET, DEVONPORT J AND E. COLE, FORE-STREET, STONEHOUSE.
1836.
^
ADVERTISEMENT.
The present little work has been composed, with the assistant facilities afforded in an early Guide Book by the Rev. Samuel Rowe.
The author is also much indebted to numerous gentlemen in the three towns, for the promptitude with which they furnished all required informa- ation ; and in particular to H. Chatfield, Esq. for his industrious aid in the article upon the Dock Yard. He has likewise to acknowledge the same kindness on the part of several gentlemen connected with New Victualling Establishment.
To Mr. Rowe, as a primitive labourer in the topography of this neighbourhood, the public must ever remain a debtor. The later book may supersede the earlier ; but the name of the original author will maintain its place.
Athenaeum Terrace, Plymouth, May, 1836.
List of Maps and Prints.
1 View of St. Andrew's Church, Tower, &c. to face the title.
2 General plan of Streets and Thoroughfares, to face page 1
3 Map of Plymouth Sound and Breakwater 4
4 Map of the Towns and their Vicinities 5
5 Elevations of two old Houses in Notte Street, Plymouth 1 3
6 Plan and Elevation of Plymouth Royal Hotel, Theatre
and Assembly Rooms 15
7 Plan and Elevation of the Athenaeum 17
8 Elevation of the " South Devon and East Cornwall
Hospital and Plymouth Public Dispensary" .... 27 (a)
9 Plan of " The Royal Victualling Yard," and Eleva-
tion of the Entrance Gate 52
10 Devonport Column, &c 61
11 Plan and Elevation of the Town Hall Portico 63
12 Breakwater, Plan and Section 102
13 Eddystone Lighthouse : Elevation and Section 109
14 View of Lary Bridge, &c 127
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page INTRODUCTORY SKETCH ; with general descrip- tion of the three Towns, and vicinity 1
BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH.— Stranger's Guide.— Principal Inns ; Lodging Houses ; Baths ; Hacknev Coaches ; Post Office ; Citadel, &c. ; Hotel, Assem- bly Rooms and Theatre : AthenaeEm ; St. Andrew's Chapel ; Public Library ; St. Andrew's Church ; Guildhall ; Charles' Church ; Custom House ; Royal Baths ; Hospital and Dispensary 7
Supplemental Summary, Municipal Information ; Cha- ritable Institutions ; Races ; Regatta ; Horticultural Society ; Historic Sketch 29
STONEHOUSE. Stranger s Guide. Inns; Lodging Houses ; Gas Company ; St. George's Chapel ; St. Paul's Chapel; Marine Barracks; Victualling Yard ; Naval Hospital 49
Supplemental Summary 58
DEVONPORT. Stranger's Guide. Inns ; Lodging Houses and Baths ; Hackney Coaches ; Post Office ; Column ; Town Hall ; Library ; Mount Zion Chapel ; St. Aubyn's Chapel ; St. John's Chapel ; Dock Yard Chapel ; Government House ; Port Admiral's House ; Richmond Walk 61
Supplemental Summary . . 69
The Dock Yard and Gun Wharf 74
STOKE. Stranger's Guide. Belmont House ; Block House ; Stoke Church ; Military Hospital 89
Supplement • • • 92
MORICE TOWN. Stranger's Guide. Powder Magazine • 93
CONTENTS.
Page
Torpoint Bridge 95
Supplement 97
PLYMOUTH SOUND. Stranger's Guide 99
Breakwater 99
Eddystone Lighthouse 104
Mount Edgcumbe 113
Maker, Cawsand, Rame, Milbrook, &c 120
Sharrow Grot 123
Saltram, Lary Bridge, &c 125
Rail Road, Bickleigh Vale, &c 134
Kitley, the Yealm, &c 137
The Erme, Ivy Bridge, &c 1 39
Trematon Castle and Port Eliot 143
Tavistock and its Neighbourhood, MorwelJ Rocks,
Lidford, &c , 148
Endsleigh, Launceston, &c 159
Dartmoor 163
Cotehele and Pentillie 168
Carrington, the Poet 171
Appendix 173
Index . . . * 183
INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
The stranger, uninfluenced by local sympathies and mere parish politics, will regard Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, as one large and important town, occupying the great portion of a paralellogram, 1\ miles in length by one mile in breadth, and containing a population of nearly one hundred thousand souls.
On passing rapidly through the principal thoroughfare which unites the three divisions, he will be more awakened to its extent than to its beauty. He will remark, that (as far as he can judge) Plymouth is inconveniently irregular, Stonehouse insipidly the reverse, and that the Fore Street of Devonport is the handsomest commercial street between the Eastern entrance of Plymouth, and the Dock Yard on the extreme west. He will glance at many handsome shops, and some respectable rows of private houses ; ^but, unless he obtain by chance a passing glimpse at the Royal Hotel of Plymouth, and the Town Hall of Devonport, he will entertain a temporary opinion far from flattering to the architectural pretensions of the towns, and which, though not obvious to a stage coach spectator, are many and considerable. In brief, he will speak in total ignorance of the redeeming features which are subsequently to meet his eye and charm his sense ; of scenic beauty unique in its kind ; of public works remarkable for extent and grandeur; and of many less striking, but equally pleasing evidences to the acquired and still thriving importance of our Western Emporium.
!By a reference to our map of leading thoroughfares, &c. the respective localities of the three towns will be at once explained. The brown colour indicates the principal streets ; the portions etched are supposed to S. be occupied more or less with minor streets and numerous private residences ; and the leading Naval,
2 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH,
Military, and other Government Establishments are marked by a tint of red. The figures are hereunder referred to as marking the respective localities of the following buildings : —
1, St. Andrew's Church. 11, Athenaeum.
2, Charles' Church. 12, Stonehouse Church.
3, Exchange. 13, Stonehouse Chapel.
4, Custom House. 14, Eldad Chapel.
5, Guildhall. 15, Stoke Church.
6, Public Library. 16, Government House.
7, Freemasons' Hall. 17, St. Aubyn's Chapel.
8, Charles' Chapel. 18, St. John's Chapel.
9, St. Andrew's Chapel. , 19, Monumental Column. 10, Hotel, Assembly Rooms 20, Town Hall.
and Theatre. 21, Public Library.
It will be observed, that the united towns cover an irregular site, broken into by several small bays and creeks ; bounded on the east, by the commercial harbour of Catvvater and Saltram Lake (the mouth of the River Plym ;) and on the west by the noble harbour of Hamoaze, which forms the mouth of the Tamar River, separating the counties of Devonshire and Cornwall.
The great body of the Plymouth division occupies a hollow, formed by North Hill on the inland side, and on the water side by an airy elevation called the Hoe, the summit and declivity of which are laid out in promenades, where the inhabitants may at once inhale the ever-fresh breeze of health, and luxuriate in an enchanting picture of sea and land, constantly varying in effect, and, in every variety, most beautiful. From hence, the spectator commands the full expanse of Plymouth Sound; the pine clad heights of Mount Edgcumbe on his right ; the verdant banks of Staddon on the left; the Breakwater in the middle distance, breasting with its mile of artificial rock the " rude sea " beyond, and diminished by space and partial conceal- ment from a gigantic mole to a mere line ; the extended
INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 3
horizon of the English Channel, with the dimly seen Eddystone bounding the outward view ; and the picturesque Island of St. Nicholas, with a fore ground of rock and verdure, completing the nearer prospect.
Stonehouse, for the most part occupies the same level with Plymouth; and, from Cremill Point, there is a finer view of Mount Edgcwnbe, separately considered, than from the Hoe, or, perhaps any other situation. This remark is particularly urged upon the notice of the stranger, whose ideas as to the magnitude and character of the celebrated feature in question may require for their fulfilment, that proximity, which the point of view here recommended sufficiently affords. Prom hence you obtain also a glance into the mouth of Hamoaze, where the flag ship is usually stationed ; and, from the summit, (by the reservoir) a curious bird's- eye-view of the New Victualling Establishment.
Devonport is situate on an eminence considerably above Plymouth and Stonehouse, which it overlooks with all the pride of martial dignity and protection. Here also, the lover of the scenic (it can scarcely be called "the picturesque ") may gratify a yet untried taste ; for we doubt, whether a prospect so strangely interesting as that commanded by the gallery of the monumental Column is to be found elsewhere. In addition to acres of land and water, hill and valley, town and country, wTe look down upon the several building slips of the Dock Yard, one of which is covered by a single roof, of acres one and a quarter ! The combined aspect of the Dock Yard, and the expansive waters of Hamoaze, (where, at this moment of our writing, between 90 and 100 ships of war are " reposing on their own shadows/') is truly impressive.* The Village of Torpoint on the opposite side of the water, bearing north west, is, as it were, the vestibule
* March 6th, 1835 — In commission, 7 ; not in commission, 64 ; in dock, 4; old ships for harbour use, 7 ; 1 sheer hulk, and 5 others > now building, 5.
a 2
4 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
into South Cornwall, and communicates with New Passage, Devonport, by means of a Steam Flying Bridge, contrived under the masterly superintendence of J. M. Rendel, Esq. and of which a particular account will be hereafter given.
Morice Town ascends Eastward from the harbour to the widely extended and populous Village of Stoke, which occupies a still higher elevation than Devonport, and includes the Block-house, marked in our plan. The panoramic view from hence is justly celebrated, as challenging (in the words of Mr. Rowo) " a high rank among the many delightful prospects which
" England holds " Within her world of beauty."
To conclude these general remarks upon the scenic riches of the immediate neighbourhood, we may mention the charming views from Woodside, (see map) those in and from Mount Edgcumbe, and the extraordinary prospects from certain positions on Cat-down, and Staddon Heights, enthusiastically eulogized by the greatest landscape painter of the day.
By reference to the small map, engraved as a " Guide to Plymouth Sound and Breakwater/' a correct idea may be formed as to their form, magnitude, and relative position, with the English Channel on the south, and the three towns on the north. It will be seen, that the opening of the Sound between Penlee Point and the Shag Stone is about three miles; that it afterwards widens into Cawsand Bay, and is subsequently con- tracted by the promontory of Mount Edgcumbe : that the Breakwater is abouta mile within the opening of the Sound, and about two and a quarter miles from the Hoe Cliffs. It will be also observed, that after passing the narrow strait of Cremill, or the Devil's Point, the waters greatly expand themselves, and supply not only the deep and capacious harbour of Hamoaze, but also {see map, 3) numerous shallow lakes and ramifications. The Eddy-
shall spl
a 3
V"1?
GUIDE to PLYMOUTH SOOTH) a^d BREAKWATER,
SP
A 3
vmJ
GENERAL OUTLINE of Ad ENVIRONS of P.LY&OCTH and DEVOKPORT*
INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 5
stone Lighthouse, distant from Plymouth about fourteen miles, and from llame Head (the nearest point of land) about nine miles, is situate in the direction marked by the two lines diverging towards the Plymouth Citadel.
The map, No. 3, gives the positions of the combined Port, its Sound and Harbours, in relation to the localities of its environs, extending east and west, seventeen miles each way, and about twenty miles north. It may here be stated, that Plymouth is 216 miles from London, and 44 miles from Exeter. Its distance from the chief of the smaller towns marked on the map, is as follows : — Tavistock, 15: Ashburton, 24 : Liskeard, 18 : Laimceston, 27. The stage coach roads alone are coloured ; and the single red line, marks the course of the Rail Road from the Quays of the Port to the Granite Quarries in Dartmoor. We shall have occasion to allude hereafter to the surpassing beauty of the Rail Road scenery. The southern portion of Dart- moor is indicated by a tint of green. This remarkable Forest opens a grand source of interest to all who visit Devonshire. Its numerous Tors of "herbless granite" arrest the distant eye, while the antiquarian and mine- ralogist rejoice in exploring its super and substratic curio- sities— its Druidical remains, or mines of tin and copper. From its dreary summit flows many a torrent to follow its rocky course towards the sea; and though the interior be for the most part monotonously desolate, the boundaries may be described as unsurpassable in richness and beauty. We may, perhaps, be allowed to compare Dartmoor to a black velvet pall surrounded with golden fringe.
It will be observed that our Environs include a con- siderable portion of Cornwall, separated as before stated from Devon by the Tamar river, which is readily traceable through our map from south to north. Of the scenic beauties of this river, including the Duke of Bedford's Cottage at Endsleigh, the Rocks of Morwell, and the interesting seats of Cothele and Pentillie we shall speak in due time. The rivers Tavy, Plym, a 3
6 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
Lynher, Yealm, Erme, Lid, and Dart, are also within the province of our descriptive labours, together with the noble residences of the Earl Mount Edgcumbe, of the Earl St. Germans, Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley, the beautiful mansions of Antony, Thanckes, Warleigh, Maristow, Buckland Abbey, Kitley, &c. and several interesting pieces of Gothic antiquity, including the Castles of Launceston, Trematon, and Plympton, and the extensive remains of Tavistock Abbey.
We trust in being at least excused for giving this general sketch of the various matters, which await, and deserve the notice of all visitors and others, who really desire an acquaintance with the United Towns and their Environs/ Our motive has been, to awaken them to a sense of the much they have to do — if they have time : not to terrify them — if they have not. It is only hoped, that none of our eulogies will lead to disappointment, and that if the select subjects seen by the visitor should corroborate the show-man's word, he may be received as the correct topographer of the unseen remainder.
Having thus taken a general survey of our subject as a connected whole, we proceed to consider, separately, its several component features ; nor are we, in giving precedence to Plymouth, actuated by any other feeling than is due to the parent town.
It will also be our aim to put foremost such informa- tion, as a visiting stranger, limited to time, will naturally desire to be supplied with. To many (perhaps most) travellers, the ancient history of a town is a matter of secondary consideration ; and, anxious during their brief stay, to behold things merely as they now exist, they are content to postpone the perusal of past epochs, until they lounge (sated with sight-seeing) in the cushioned comfort of their departing post-chaise. This is no intimation that such things will be omitted, or even slighted, but that they will be found, together with the usual quantum of municipal information, accounts of charities, commercial and other matters, in a separate portion of the book.
BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
Principal Inns.
The first Inn of importance, on entering Plymouth from the Exeter Road, is Rowe's King's Arms.
The Commercial Hotel, in Old Town Street, is the next to the traveller from Exeter, and the first on entering from Tavistock. Further on, at the west end of Bedford-street, is the Globe Hotel; and next appears the Royal Hotel, &c. &c. forming a stately, and to the humble visitor, a somewhat startling appearance with its Ionic porticoes and extended elevations.
Lodging Houses.
In addition to the several leading conveniences just enumerated, are many Lodging Houses pleasantly situated, either in quiet or more bustling quarters, as may be desired.
Baths
of every description may be had at a few minutes notice, at the establishment in Union Street. (See page 26.)
Hackney Coaches
are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz : the Royal Hotel, Bedford Street, Old-town Street, Treville Street, kc. and Omnibuses are constantly plying to and fro, between the eastern extremity of Plymouth and the western ditto of Devonport. a 4
o PLYMOUTH.
The Post Office
is in Bilbury Street; there are also receiving Boxes at the Royal Hotel, and near the north end of Old Town Street. (See page 3 3. J
For Fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons, Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c, &c. (Seepage 32, and Appendix.)
Supposing the visitor duly restored from the fatigues of travel by repose and refreshment in his temporary quarters at the Inn or Lodging House, we shall anticipate his desire to inhale the sea breeze, and enjoy the prospect from the Hoe. Passing the smaller portico of the Hotel on his right, and a little further, St. Andrew's granite- fronted Chapel on his left, he will descry the opening into Princess Square, a small, but imposing quadrangle of severe Greek architecture, of which, with other like matters we shall in due time fully speak. Tracing the gradual ascent of Lockyer Street, the visitor will pass the end of Windsor Terrace, a remarkably neat line of houses recently erected, and forming portion of an extended scheme of similar character. Continuing the ascent, he shortly arrives on the summit of the Hoe, where we leave him to pause a moment and look around !
Of the view, looking sea-ward, we have already spoken in our introductory remarks. A removable Camera building of wood, or the railed platform on which, during the fitting season, it is erected, mark the spot from which Mr. Barker took the material for his grand panorama exhibited in London ; from hence, beginning with Mount Edgcumbe on the right, the eye passes onward over Cawsand Bay to the tower on Penlee Point, and, if clear, reaches the Eddystone Lighthouse, appearing to the naked eye like a sail on the horizon. On the extreme opposite to Penlee Point, are seen the Mew and Shag Stones ; and nearer, within the Sound, the Breakwater, buffeting the open sea, and leaving a safe harbour of an oft-times glassy smoothness in its rear. Opposite the eastern end of this celebrated
STRANGER S GUIDE. 9
barrier, is Bovisand Bay, with its fresh water reservoir and arched quays, a small but pleasing object in the picture. The line of Staddon Heights brings the eye forward to Mount Batten, crowned with a circular fort, once stained with the blood of civil warriors, and now mounted with the flag of the harbour master. More than a slight glance into the mouth of Catwater harbour is prevented by the bold outline of the Citadel, a grand feature in one of Turner's views of coast scenery. Leaving the Citadel, the eye passes over the woods of Saltraru and other varieties of that neighbourhood; ranges delighted over the distant undulations of Dart- moor ; and then, by a kind of visual bathos, sinks upon the slated and tiled roofs of Old Plymouth ; climbs the handsome square tower of St. Andrews, and the pine- appled spire of Charles' Church ; takes a horizontal flight over Woodside to North Hill, and descends upon the western quarter of Modern Plymouth.
The panorama is completed by the thickly inhabited elevations of Stoke and parts of Stonehouse below, the town of Devonport with its Column and Steeples bearing further west, and the remote Hills of Cornwall carrying the eye onward to its first point of observation on Mount Edgcumbe. It only remains to mention the fortified Island of St. Nicholas on the right below, and the Lime Stone Quarries of the Western Hoe (private property) now in active operation, with a view to an extensive building-scheme, proposed to occupy the site after it shall have been worked to certain levels. The row of cottages on the summit are to be regarded as of temporary duration, being erected by the proprietor, Thomas Gill, Esq. for the residence of the numerous labourers employed in the preparatory work of excava- tion, &c. and which, from the magnitude of the plan, will necessarily require a period of some duration. The stuccoed building facing the Eastern Hoe, at the end of the line of cottages, is used during the week as a school for the children, and on Sunday as a chapel for
a 5
10 PLYMOUTH.
the families resident on the spot, to which important end it was licensed by the Bishop, in 1835.
The mean-looking Obelisk on the eastern part of the Hoe, is important as a land mark to ships entering the Sound. The carriage roads above and below, together with the various footpaths on the declivity are constantly being extended or repaired by the workhouse paupers.
Among the legends of Ancient Plymouth, the most remarkable is connected with the Hoe, where, it is said, a mighty combat took place between Brutus' kinsman, Corinseus, and a Giant. Of course, the former, being the smaller man, was the greater hero, and manifested his superior prowess by hurling his huge opponent into the sea.* The supposed place of their encounter was
* The legend is quaintly described by Drayton in his " Poly- Olbion." The Trojans having arrived in Albion, in the " verie place where Totnesse now doth stand," first set up their Gods,
" Kissing the blessed shore ;
Then forraging this He, long promis'd them before, Amongst the ragged Cleeues those monstrous Giants sought : Who (of their dreadfullkind) t'appall the Troians, brought Great Gogmagog, an Oake that by the roots could teare : So mightie were (that time) the men who liued there : But, for vse of Armes he did not vnderstand (Except some rock or tree, that comming next to hand Hee raz'd out of the earth to execute his rage) Hee challenge makes for strength, and otTereth there his gage, Which, Covin taketh vp, to answer by and by, Vpon this sonne of Earth his vtmost power to try.
All, doubtful to which part the victorie would goe, Vpon that loftie place at Piimmouth call'd the Hoe, Those mightie Wrastlers met ; with many an irefull looke Who threatned, as the one hold of the other tooke : But, grapled, glowing fire shines in their sparkling eyes. And, whilst at length of arme one from the other lyes, Their lusty sinewes swell like cables, as they striue : Their feet such trampling make, as though the forc't to driue A thunder out of earth ; which stagger'd with the weight : Thus, eithers vtmost force vrg'd to the greatest height. Whilst one vpon his hip the other seeks to lift, And th'adverse (by a turne) doth from his cunning shift, Their short-fetcht troubled breath a hollow noise doth make,
stranger's guide. 11
formerly indicated by the "portraiture of two men cut out in the ground, the one bigger and the other less, (whom they term Gog-Magog) and repaired by order of the townsmen, when cause required/'*
The struggles of these mighty men of yore are to the present day emulated by the prize wrestlers of Devon and Cornwall, who annually " hold tourney " on the Hoe. Here, also, the military frequently assemble with drum and colour, and from hence the yearly Regatta is advantageously viewed by assembled thousands.
On leaving the Hoe, half an hour may well be spent in perambulating the
Citadel,
built in the reign of Charles II, and consisting of three regular and two irregular bastions ; the curtains of the regular bastions being further strengthened by two ravelins and horn-works ; on the east, north, and west sides, are a deep ditch, counterscarp, and covered way palisadoed; the parapets are pierced for 1 20 cannon ; the lower fort is connected with the Citadel, and is chiefly intended to defend the Sound. The entrance is on the town side, through two gates, of which the second
Like bellowes of a Forge. Then Covin vp doth take The Giant twixt the grayns ; and, voyding of his hould (Before his combrous feet he well recouer could) Pitcht head-long from the hill ; as when a man doth throw An Axtree, that with sleight deliueid from the toe Rootes vp the yeelding earth ; so that his violent fall, Strooke Neptune with such strenth, asshouldred him withall ; That where the monstrous waues like Mountaines late did
stand, They leap't out of the place, and left the bared sand To gaze vpon wide heauen : so great a blowe it gaue. For which, the conquering Brute, on Corineus braue This home of land bestow'd, and markt it with his name ; Of Covin, Cornwall call'd, to hisimmortall fame."
* Carew's Survey of Cornwall. A 6
12 PLYMOUTH.
is a choice specimen of a bad style. The buildings within consist of the lieutenant-governor's and other officers' houses, barracks, hospital, chapel, magazine and armoury. The centre is adorned with a fine bronze statue of George the Second, attired as a Roman warrior, crowned with laurel, and bearing a truncheon in his extended hand. It was the work of Robert Pitt, and erected, 1728, at the expense of Louis Dufour, Esq. an officer of the Citadel. The figure is placed on a pedestal, ornamented with the royal arms, and inscribed with a Latin and English dedication. The Latin inscription ends with the following verse, characteristic of a great monarch :
PACIS AMAKS RECTIQUE TENAX ARMISQUE TIMENDUS REX MAGNUS POPULOS QUOS REGIT ILLE BEAT.
The visitor is permitted to walk round the ramparts under strict injunctions to "keep off the grass,'7 and other matters of which if he be ignorant, the sentinel will soon inform him. He will do well, on entering, to turn up the path on his left, and follow his course round the eastern half only. This will afford him an inte- resting view of Catwater harbour, the port of Plymouth, and other objects not visible from the Hoe. He may then descend into the parade, and make his exit, as the continuation of his walk round the western half of the ramparts will only lead to a repetition of what he has seen before. This fortification is occupied by the lieutenant-governor and other officers; and as a station for troops, a company of which garrisons St. Nicholas' Island, and is relieved monthly. Descending from the Citadel, the lower and more ancient part of the town is approached under a Gate-house, "the only remaining evidence of Plymouth having been once a walled town." It is now private property, forming part of the residence of Captain Wise, R.N. C.B. and entitled Hoe Gate.— Following the narrow street before us, we find ourselves in Notte Street, a gloomy thoroughfare, but worthy of
stranger's guide. 13
notice as exhibiting two interesting specimens of that style of domestic architecture which prevailed in the reigns of the Charles.
Notte Street, to the right, after entering from Hoe-lane, leads to that part of the town " where Merchants most do congregate," viz. Sutton Pool Harbour, Barbican, and its numerous Quays ; the Custom House, the Exchange, and other offices connected with the Port, as hereafter to be described.
To the left hand, Notte Street leads to Sussex Place and Princess Square, thence, by the New Grammar School, and St. Andrew's Terrace and Chapel, to the Royal Hotel — The narrow streets branching north from Notte Street, lead into the body of the town.
We will suppose that our visitor next desires a glance at the general aspect of the town internally. It will be observed, that the principal thoroughfares are irregular in disposition ; and that Whimple Street, though perhaps the most bustling of the whole, is the narrowest; here, however, and in Bedford, Old Town, Treville, and Buckwell Streets, will be found excellent shops of every description, some of them exhibiting fronts of chaste architectural character.
The Market Place occupies three acres of ground, and may be entered from Cornwall Street, East Street, or Drake Street. In the large central area (ordinarily occupied by the carts, &c. of the country venders,) are held the annual fairs of April and November: the market days are Monday, Thursday, and Saturday.
The northern part of the Town is chiefly made up of regular streets of small houses "neat and trimly dressed," bespeaking respectability and limited means, and amusingly contrasted with certain exceptions of earlier date, whose substantial brick fronts and ponderous cornices are perhaps more akin to the feelings of the "good old English gentleman." Boon's Place and Gascoigne Terrace, marked on our plan, occupy a lofty rear rank overlooking the town, and commanding some of the scenic beauties beyond. a 7
14 PLYMOUTH.
In lowly imitation of the great Metropolis, Plymouth has also her " West End " largely occupied by legal and medical professors, and a sufficient mingling of classic intelligence and fashion. Here, around the leading public buildings, are collected several ranges of excellent houses recently built, testifying a laudable progression in the taste of the public, which is certainly more obviously shewn by the architecture of a town than by any other symbol of civilization. Any remarks of a censorious character upon the school of Plymouth art, are, from self-evident reasons, to be strictly avoided by the Author of this little work, which he supposes addressed to such as are capable of judging for themselves, and which will therefore aspire to nothing more than the engagement of their attention towards such objects as may pretend to critical notice. Even in giving the designer's name, it may happen that some injustice will follow, in criticising the work to which that name is attached, without reference to the thwarting difficulties under which it may have been effected.
Princess Square, as essentially architectural in cha- racter, deserves the notice of the visitor. It is formed by four corresponding elevations, the entrance to each house being furnished with a plain portico of massive Doric proportions. At the east end of the north range is the Mechanics' Institute. Princess Square is from the designs of Mr. Foulston, the first modern architect of any eminence, who essayed to give a classic tone to Plymouth. How successful has been that essay, his followers will honestly avouch, while they gratefully regard him as a powerful pioneer, who has smoothed down the ruggedness of the public mind, and left it readily and generously accessible to their professional taste and exertions.
The low Doric building, with its bell turret, imme- diately without the N.W. angle of the Square, is a School-house designed by Mr. Chappie. ( See Appendix, Schools.) Sussex Place leading eastward from the S.E. angle of the Square is now in progress from designs by
STRANGERS GUIDE. 15
the Author of this work, who is also answerable for the defects of Athenaeum Terrace, (the more eastern of the two ranges opposite the Crescent.) The Crescent, (designed by Mr. Hutchins) has the advantage of a large enclosed garden and private approach between two octagonal Tuscan Lodges. The general appearance of Western Plymouth is, in sober truth, strikingly hand- some, and we may particularly allude to the general effect of the picture as viewed from the lower extremity of the Crescent, whence, in grand addition to all the rest, we have the beautiful perspective of the Athenaeum, portico, and the proud octastyle of the Theatre. The streets are hereabout spacious, clean, and therefore cheerful : well paved with (for the most part) Plymouth marble, and supplied with the means of being amply lighted by gas. (See Index.)
Union Street forms, with its Stonehouse-continuation, a direct line of nearly a mile in length. It is eligible as an airy and lively situation ; and we have only to regret, that the circumstances of the case should not have warranted the erection of continuous and correspondent ranges of loftier houses on each side. The site afforded every opportunity for a magnificent street : but the poetical imaginings of an architect are more rife than the means for building large-houses, or for paying the rent necessary to live in them.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
Of these, by far the most imposing, is the noble pile which includes the
Royal Hotel, Assembly Rooms, and Theatre.
The foundation was laid on the 10th September, 1811,
and the expense of its erection (amounting to £60,000)
a 8
16 PLYMOUTH.
defrayed partly by the institution of a tontine, and partly from the Corporation funds. The name of Edmund Lockyer, Esq. the Mayor, is recorded on the foundation stone, with that of Mr. Foulston, the Architect.
The entrance to the Hotel is under the tetrastyle portico, near one end of the east front, a similar and corresponding portico having been designed for the other. The grand octastyle, in the centre of the principle (or north) front, leads to the boxes of the Theatre and the Assembly Rooms. These stately appendages are of that chastest order, the Ilissus Ionic, though unfor- tunately not of a material so lasting or beautiful as the white marble of Pentelicus. The north front extends 270 feet in length, of which the central portico occupies 70 feet, its columns being 30 feet high. The interior quadrangle is completed by two ranges of coach and stable buildings facing the south and west, and the whole occupies an area of nearly an acre.
The Assembly Rooms are approachable either from the Hotel or north portico. The Tea Room is spacious and simple, but the Ball Room above is an apartment of startling magnificence — at least as to design. The Corinthian beauties of Lysicrates are here exhibited on an imposing scale ; nor will the spectator fail to notice the great central and four surrounding chandeliers, the splendour of which may possibly be enhanced by the knowledge of their having cost one thousand pounds. — This noble apartment is nearly eighty feet long, forty in width, and nearly thirty feet high. On the opposite side of the staircase Lobby, are commodious Card Rooms, &c. The public Assemblies take place every alternate, or (as of late) every third Wednesday during the winter months — they are invariably supported by distinguished patronage, and owe much of their attractiveness to the zeal and attention of Mr. Whiddon, conductor of the Hotel.
The Theatre is constructed, (as all such buildings ought to be) with not less regard to the safety than the accommodation of an audience. The roof and entire
'TJfjU^^L lyLM \
^caZc to fiJJLUjJLIJ.
4 JEtefstJitw .
a/.SZa67~ca,se<. ~Zi&ra?y ever
c.Treside^s cha^r* d.Zzcturer.f Z&frle. &. Sea£s . /zStaZuas
Offices c67ide-r-
.mm i_
_J i L_
10 Jfi 40 sit/tel-
Settle- 5? ZIm, Tfcvrv.
"&/*4l
ATHENAEUM
stranger's guide. 17
frame-work of the boxes are of iron ; and the auditory, (comprising a pit, two entire circles of boxes, a gallery, and slips) is of a magnitude fully equal to the purposes of the " legitimate drama, v — not meaning to exclude the "pomp and circumstance " that is sometimes attendant on it. The most conclusive way, perhaps, of describing the capacity of this Theatre, is simply to state, that, at the prices of 45. dress circle, 3s. upper ditto, 2s. pit, and Is. gallery, a receipt of £150 has been acknowledged by the manager. Mr. R. Brunton, who had conducted the Plymouth drama for some years, was some time back succeeded by the late and much lamented Mr. Sandford, a man of singular moral worth, and a zealous labourer in too neglected a cause. The Theatre and Hotel are held under lease granted by the Mayor and Commonalty. A plan and elevation of the building are adjoined.
The Plymouth Institution, originated in 1812, was, by its success enabled, in 1818, to commence the erection of the
Athenaeum,
the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of May in that year, by Henry Woollcombe, Esq. The works arose under the tasteful and gratuitous superinten- dence of Mr. Foulston, and on the 4th of February, 1819, the Rev. Robert Lampen opened the new building with a discourse worthy of the occasion and of himself.*
The portico exhibits four columns of that order most appropriate to the character of a building devoted to Literature and Art. It is prostyle in plan, strongly re- sembling (though an improvement on) the Doric Portico at Athens, which affords a precedent for the great com- parative width of the centre inter-columniation. It is 36 feet in length, and measures 37 feet 6 inches from the ground to the apex of the pediment.
The entrance hall receives a classic character from its
* See Transactions of the Plymouth Institution. a 9
18 PLYMOUTH.
Doric columns and antse ; and it is further graced by the lovely presence of the Venus de Medicis, the figure of a faun, and the athletic form of the fighting gladiator. Above the hall is the committee-room, or library.
The great hall or lecture room, measuring 36 feet by 30 feet, is fitted with sittings for about 150 individuals. The president's chair is surmounted by a bust of Minerva. The more remarkable decorations of the room are casts from the Apollo Belvidere, the Antinous, the river god Ilissus, the Theseus, and plaster fac-similes of the procession and sculptures in the Metopes of the Parthenon. Behind the lecturer's table, is a door, leading to the laboratory, offices, and to the museum above. The latter, by means of purchase and donation, is constantly increasing, and already contains an interesting collection of minerals, fossils, birds, insects, shell fish, savage accoutrements, and miscellaneous curiosities.
A plan and elevation of the building are annexed.
The affairs of the Institution are under the manage- ment of a president and three vice-presidents, a trea- surer, secretary, and four curators. The body of the Society is formed by members, who undertake to lecture, (and have therefore peculiar privileges,) associates, who form the greater numerical portion, and young gentlemen not exceeding the age of 20, admitted under the nomination of a member- The first subscribe 1 \ guineas, the second 2, and the third class 1 guinea per annum ; the lecturing members alone having access to the library, or a voice in the management. All, however, are allowed to take part in the discussion which follows each lecture, and to join in which strangers are also invited. By the latter is understood, persons not residing within five miles of Plymouth, who are admitted by appli- cation to the members. The session always commences with October, and continues through the five following months, during which a lecture is given every Thursday evening, occupying from 7 to 8 o'clock, the two sub- sequent hours being employed in discussing the argu- ments advanced. At the close of the season a general
stranger's guide. 19
summary of the proceedings is printed ; and it is the intention of the society, from time to time, to publish some of their more important transactions, a handsome octavo volume of which has already appeared, and may be obtained at the Institution.
Every two or three years, during about six weeks of the recess, the Hall and Museum are employed as exhibition rooms, the former for oil paintings, the latter for water coloured drawings. Single admission Is. catalogue 6d. season ticket (not transferable) 3s. The latter admits the bearer to the conversaziones of each Thursday evening during the exhibition season, when the Hall and Museum are lighted up with lamps and loveliness, and harmony insured by the presence of a choice band of music. The proceeds, after contributing to liquidate the expenses incurred, enrich the treasury of the Institu- tion. August is the month of exhibition.
St. Andrew's Chapel,
opposite the S.E. part of the Royal Hotel, merits the visitor's notice, as exhibiting a front of granite, and an interior of the chastest Anglo-Greek taste. The pulpit, gallery-fronts, altar, and candelabra-columns, claim particular attention. A good organ at the west end, confronts a large picture of the Crucifixion by the late Mr. Ball, a native artist, of much feeling for the loftier efforts of painting. The Chapel was built in 1823, from designs by Mr. Foulston, and at the joint expense of the Rev. Robert Lampen, H. Woollcombe, J. Pridham, and T. Gill, Esquires. It was erected at the cost of £5000, and affords sittings for 1050 persons, of which 160 are free. An adjoining house has been lately purchased for the residence of the minister.
Tho Public library,
in Cornwall Street, will next claim the visitor's attention. This establishment, in concert with the Athenaeum,
20 PLYMOUTH.
attests the intellectual character of, at least, a fair proportion of the town. It originated chiefly in the literary zeal of the late George Eastlake, Esq. The foundation was laid in 1811, and the building duly completed under the tasteful supervision of Mr. Foulston. The classic spectator will observe, that the central com- partment of the exterior is a judicious variation from the Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, the latter having only a single pilaster, at each extremity, and a central anta. On each side of the Lobby are spacious apart- ments, the one a News-room, the other for the committee of management, the members of which are annually elected in January, and comprise a president, vice-president, treasurer, secretary, registrar, and sixteen other shareholders. The Library is a carefully studied specimen of internal architecture, and exhibits a pleasing- example of the pendentive ceiling, springing from pro- jecting abutments, pierced with a large circular light, and crowned with a columniated lantern. The clear space, from side to side (the room being square) is 33 feet ; and the height to the ceiling of the lantern 30 feet. The shares, originally valued at 30 guineas each, are 204 in number. An annual subscription of 2 guineas is contributed, for the general purposes of the Institution, by every proprietor, who, if he hold more than one, may nominate on every such additional share, a visitor, the latter paying 2 guineas annually. Each proprietor may also introduce one stranger ; and, if he be Mayor of Plymouth, he is at liberty, together with the president, to introduce any number of strangers, under certain restrictions. Ladies and Gentlemen are also admitted by ballot as annual subscribers either to the library alone, or to the library and news-room.
At the east end of Cornwall Street, near one of the Market Gates, is a neat building, comprising, on the upper story, the Freemasons' Hall, (47ft. 6ins. by 28ft. 6ins.) with adjoining conveniences ; and, on the lower story, the " Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse, Commercial Rooms." The building was erected from
stranger's guide. 21
plans by Mr. Adams, the town-surveyor, at a cost of £2,500; and, in April, 1828, it was formally dedicated to the order of the Lodge of Fortitude, by Lord Ebrington. The Commercial Rooms were applied to their present useful purpose in 1832, and are supported by very numerous subscribers, who have thus a cheap access to all the leading London and Provincial papers with certain select Periodicals.
The annual subscription is 1 guinea for each member, except in the case of firms, when 1 guinea and a-half is paid for two partners, 2 guineas for three, and in like proportion for every additional member of such firms.
Strangers, not resident within fifteen miles, may be admitted into the rooms by the personal introduction of a subscriber, who enters in a book kept for that purpose, their names and places of abode, which entitle them to have access to the rooms for seven days, after which time the entry may be once renewed ; but this privilege is not available to the same individual oftener than once in every three months.
The rooms are open daily (Sundays excepted, on which day they are open only from eight to ten in the evening) from seven in the morning until ten at night ; but on Saturdays they remain open until eleven o'clock at night.
To the Market Place we have before alluded ; but we may here state, in reference to this, as well as to other important features of the town, (particularly the Royal Hotel and the Athenaeum,) that very much is due to the exertions and aid of Edmund Lockyer, Esq.
The stranger will next desire to visit
St. Andrew's Church,
which may suffer somewhat, in his experienced judgment, from the "too fair report " of local criticism. He will observe, that, though handsome in parts, the exterior lacks that most distinguishing of Gothic essentials, altitude; i. e. as regards the body of the Church. The
22 PLYMOUTH.
tower (containing a fine peal of eight bells) may be admitted as of good general proportions, and as crowned by a pinnacled compartment of remarkable beauty : it is said to have been built in 1440, at the expense of Mr. Yogge, a Plymouth Merchant. The Church is of the later pointed style, at least as regards the windows. In other portions we have other dates. Mention is made of this Church in a survey ordered by Pope Nicholas, in 1291. The Organ (an instrument of con- siderable power) was built 1737; and the altar-piece, presented by a Mrs. Ilbert in 1742, is rather an evidence to her liberality than to the judicious taste of its Palladian designer. The present imposing aspect of the interior is chiefly owing to the improvements effected in 1826, under Mr. Foulston's superintendence, and at an expense of nearly £5000. The oak pulpit, stalls, &c. galleries, and staircase of teak in the tower base, the porches without, and the granite imitation within, are the principal features of the new work.
The monument to Dr. Woollcombe, with its group representing "the Genius of Medicine supporting Indi- gence/' is by Westmacott. The epitaph was revised by Canning. The late reverend vicar, John Gandy, is commemorated by a female figure resting on a medallion bust. A former vicar of this church, the Rev. T. Mudge, may be said still to live in one of Chantrey's finest busts. This exquisite specimen of sculpture was executed from a picture by Reynolds, and consigned to its most fitting situation in this church by R. Rosdew, Esq. whose wife (daughter of Dr. Mudge,) is here also commemorated. Here are, likewise, monuments to Dr. A. Wilson and J. Gilbert, (former vicars of St. Andrew's,) Sir J. Skelton, a loyal adherent to Charles 2nd, and governor of the Plymouth Citadel ; Dr. James Yonge, physician ; Mr. Samuel Northcote, father of the celebrated artist; Captain Lechmere ; Mrs. Lockyer, &c. &c.
The right of presentation (belonging to the Corpora- tion) was purchased by Mr. Hatchard, the well-known publisher, and presented to his son, the present vicar,
stranger's guide. 23
who is aided in the very arduous duties of his large and populous parish, by the Rev. J. H. C. Borwell, M.A. the lecturer, appointed by the Mayor and Commonalty, who afford him a salary of £20 per annum ; and also £ 10 per annum to the organist. The vicar is further assisted by a curate. St. Andrew's Church is furnished with sittings for 2500 persons, thus distributed : 1 500 in pews, 500 free seats for adults, and 500 free seats for children. Besides the church yard, there is a burying ground a little to the north of Princess Square.
Passing from St. Andrew's Church along Whimple Street, we stumble, as it were, upon the
Guildhall,
of which, as it may not (we hope) long exist, little need here be said. It is strangely irregular in plan, crowded and inconvenient in disposition, and wholly indescribable as to style, unless, indeed, we term it " Gothic " in the truest sense of the word. It comprises, besides the hall, (a room 53ft. by 21ft. lately refitted) the several offices necessary to the transaction of the corporation affairs, the town prisons, watch house, and apartments for the town sergeants. The most singular fact to be observed upon in this unique edifice, is simply this ; viz. that its date of erection should be so late as 1800 !
Descending Buckwell Street, (from which Howe Street leads to the Baptist Chapel) and proceeding across the bottom of Treville Street, a narrow avenue leads to the Church of Charles' Parish, which wTas separated from that of St. Andrew in the reign of Charles I. to whose memory (as a martyr) the church was erected. It may here be mentioned that, in crossing Treville Street, the Friends' Meeting House (a plain red brick building) is seen on the right. On the left of the narrow street leading to Charles' Church, are the Unitarian and Independent Chapels, the latter unfinished exteriorly ; but lately much enlarged, and furnished with a double range of galleries and new pulpit, from designs by the Author of this work. The tower and spire of
24 PLYMOUTH.
Charles' Church,
have an agreeable outline ; but otherwise the exterior of the building can only be described as in the debased Gothic style of a degenerate period. It was commenced 1 646, but not finished until 1 658. The Saracenic portico on the south may win a salam from the Mahomedan, but will be deemed most inappropriate by the Christian critic. The interior makes an impression of a far more agreeable character upon the spectator, who will duly accredit the manner in which Mr. Ball has refurnished the church with pulpit, pewing, galleries, and a light Gothic skreen at the western end. The coup d'ail is pleasing in the extreme. These improvements were executed in 1828-29, at an expense of about £2400. The church affords sitting room for 1716 persons, dis- tributed as follows : — 1096 in Pews, 420 free seats for adults, and 200 Charity Children.
Among the many monuments, that of the Rev. R. Hawker, D.D. exhibiting a finely sculptured Bust by Lege" will claim most particular attention. On the opposite side of the Chancel is a handsomely sculptured tablet in commemoration of the late vicar, the Rev. James Came, D.D. and his Wife, both of^whom were taken off, within four days of each other, by malignant cholera, at the time when that awful pestilence so generally prevailed in 1832.
To the church yard, an additional cemetery has been lately added close by. The vicar is presented by the Corporation. Like St. Andrew's, Charles' Parish has also its assistant Chapel, which the visitor will find at some distance N.W. of the church. It was first opened for divine service on the 1st of July, 1829, and contains sittings for near 1200 persons, of which about 200 are free to the poor. The designer was Mr. Ball. Cost of erection, £3914. 155. 6d. defrayed by donations, sale of pews, and loans from the Rev. S. Courtenay and Miss Courtenav.
STRANGERS GUIDE. 25
At the north-western extremity of the Plymouth boun- dary, conspicuous from its elevated site and two cone- topped turrets, is Eldad Chapel, a large stone edifice of mixed pointed architecture, erected from Mr. Ball's designs, at an expense of £4903. lis. 4d. exclusive of the organ and road-making. To meet this charge, the subscriptions and donations amounted to £3267; the remainder was effected by loan. The chapel contains 1500 sittings, of which 200 are free.
Near the northern extremity of Old Town Street is the Ebenezer Methodist Chapel, erected in 1816, at an expense of about £5000, and affording accommodation for 1500 persons. Its situation in a well planted cemetery, the simple but handsome aspect which cha- racterise it within and without, its wrought stone front, and generally substantial appearance, entitle it to particular mention. Under the vestry is a vault for the interment of the Wesleyan itinerant ministers of the Plymouth and Devonport circuits.
In Batter Street, near the Guildhall, is a Presbyterian Chapel and burial ground. This Chapel is endowed, and has a School attached.
The Baptist Chapel, to which allusion has been already made, has been lately enlarged. Other dissenting Chapels are to be found in various parts of the town : nor should we omit to mention the Episcopalian Chapel in the Citadel, and the "Mariner's Church" near the Barbican, more particularly noticed in the supplementary • account of Plymouth.
The Custom House
was erected from designs by Mr. Laing, the unfortunate architect of the Custom House, at London — or rather the architect of the unfortunate Custom House — for it is not a feeling of mere humanity, which should prompt us to speak in alleviation of the mental distress Mr. Laing must have endured on the failure of his building. His folio work will still do him credit as regards not only
26 PLYMOUTH.
the architecture and arrangement of his design, but also in respect to the constructive science displayed. The more humble specimen of his talent, to which we now more particularly allude, is yet worthy of the town. Jt is situate on the Quay of Sutton Pool, and exhibits a front of granite, suitable, solid, and well proportioned.
The interior is well arranged for business; on the ground floor are the offices of the principal surveyor, tide-surveyor, landing- waiter, searcher, &c. A granite staircase leads to the long-room, a commodious and spacious apartment for the dispatch of general business, adjoining which are the collector and comptroller's offices.
The long-room is in length 52ft. 4ins. by 26 feet wide, and about 22 high. The building was opened in 1820, having been erected and fitted up at a cost of about £8000.
We have already described a greater number of Buildings than the visitor will care to inspect ; nor can it be said that any of those hereafter to be mentioned have other claims to notice, beyond the importance of their purposes, excepting the
Royal Baths,
which the visitor, in proceeding along Union Street towards Stonehouse, will observe receding on his left, exhibiting a centre of two Doric columns in antis, and certainly proclaiming itself the chief feature of this great thoroughfare. It was erected at the expense of a Joint Stock Company, incorporated by Royal Charter, dated 1 3th November, 1 828. The front portion of the building includes a Subscription News Room, and a Pump Room, where the newly discovered Spa waters are supplied.*
* These waters are obtained from a rock at a depth of more than 360 feet, and their medical effects have been highly approved. They have been analysed by Professors Faraday and Daniel. Specific gravity at 62 degs. 1013,3. In the Pint Imperial Measure are contained
stranger's guide. 27
The apartments above are rented to respectable day occupants. In the rear range of the building are two swimming salt water baths, 60 feet long and between 20 and 30 feet broad ; eight warm baths either fresh or salt ; two sulphur or hot air baths ; Harrowgate ditto ; two vapour baths ; two douche ditto ; three cold plunge baths ; and shower baths. A reference to the printed card of the establishment will shew at what a moderate charge its luxuries are afforded ; and the attention of the conductors will certainly merit the visitor's notice. The baths are heated by steam, and supplied by a reservoir containing near 3000 hogsheads. This reservoir is connected with the Sound by cast iron pipes of nine inches diameter, extending in a circuitous line of from 4000 to 5000 feet, and through which a supply of fresh salt water is afforded daily. The water after use is conveyed through a tunnel into Mill Bay. The Baths are open from 6 in the morning until 10 at night in the summer, and from 7 till 10 in the winter.
Near the Baths, a building is in progress to inclose the Spa Well, and subsequently to include a more spacious Pump Room than the one now in use.
Carbonic acid gas 8-100 cubic inches, and 151,66 grains of dry salts, consisting of
Grains.
Chloride of Sodium 96,64
Muriate of Magnesia 18,68
Muriate of Lime 15,10
Sulphate of Soda. 9,55
Sulphate of Lime 8,94
Carbonate of Lime 2,06
Carbonate of Iron 0,69
151,66
27(a)
The South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital and Plymouth Public Dispensary,
(Near Sussex Place,)
The remarks upon this Institution, in page 38, were printed before the commencement of the building, which is now CMay, 1836,) proceeding rapidly towards completion — at least as it regards the central part of the design, which is formed to admit the addition of wings hereafter.
The portion, now erecting, includes an entrance hall and waiting-room, with a dispensary and a committee- room (the latter also for the use of the physicians); surgeons' room ; a ward on the ground floor ; a theatre for operations and lectures ; offices and rooms for the matron and porter in the basement; wards for forty beds in the two upper floors, on each of which is a nurse's room, bath room and other conveniences, and a spacious staircase with flights of stone steps and land- ings from the basement to the top floor. A portico for carriages is attached to the centre of the north front, which exhibits, perhaps, as much architectural decoration as the purpose of the building admits, and certainly as much as the funds, at this early period of the Institution, allow.
The contemplated wings would double the capacity of the building as to beds, and supply many other conveniences.
The contractors for the work are Messrs. Chown, Burgoyne, and Marshall. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone was preceded by a morning service at St. Andrew's Church, and an appropriate sermon by the Rev. S. Itowe. On a brass plate, embedded in the
27 (b) STRANGEll's GUIDE.
footing of the N.E. corner of the building, is the follow- ing inscription : —
THE FOUNDATION STONE OF THE
SOUTH DEVON AND EAST CORNWALL HOSPITAL
AND
PLYMOUTH PUBLIC DISPENSARY
WAS LAID ON THE 6th DAY OF AUGUST, 1835, BY
THE REV. JOHN HATCHARD, M.A.
AT THE REQUEST AND IN THE PRESENCE OF THE
COMMITTEE AND SUBSCRIBERS
IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE DIVINE FAVOril THROUGH WHICH THEY HAVE BEEN ENABLED TO BEGIN
THE BUILDING
AND IN HUMBLE RELIANCE UPON THE BLESSING OF GOD ON
THEIR ENDEAVOURS TO CARRY THE CHARITABLE OBJECTS OF
THE INSTITUTION, THUS COMMENCED, INTO FULL EFFECT.
GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect.
St. Andrew's Church.
In particularizing certain monuments in page 22, we should have added, had the event then taken place, the tomb stone of the celebrated comedian, Charles Mathews, who, after two months of the most acute suffering, died at a lodging-house in Lockyer Street, and was buried in the western vestibule of St. Andrew's Church, where a simple slab bears the following inscription : —
CHARLES MATHEWS, Comedian, Born 28th June 1776 : died 28th June 1835.
Many are the visitors who will be interested m the knowledge of this fact, and who will echo, with sincerity of feeling, as they look upon this record of the lost comic master spirit —
" Alas ! poor Yorick ! "
28
IMPROVEMENTS.
During the progress of this work through the press new lines of houses have begun to arise in several quarters ; and many other improvements are in prospect. Among these are a new Guildhall and Prisons, with a building for Horticultural and other purposes of public exhibition. The new buildings in Lockyer Street will greatly improve the approach to the Hoe ; nor can we too much applaud the spirit of our leading builders, who, under the supervision of professional aid, are constantly advancing the architectural pretensions of the town generally.
20
NOTICE.
The New Corporation Act, passed after the major part of this work was printed, of course renders inaccurate (except as a piece of by-gone history) the municipal statements in pages 29 and 30.
Plymouth is now governed by a Mayor ; twelve Aldermen ; thirty-six Common Councilmen ; Recorder ; Town Clerk, &c. The first election under the new Act, in December 1835, placed Thomas Gill, Esq. in the Mayor's seat, and C. C. Whiteford, Esq. in the Town Clerkship, the latter gentleman having for some time zealously acted as deputy in that situation. The Borough is divided into six wards, viz. — St. Andrew's, Drake's, Vintry, Sutton, Frankfort, and Charles. The Magis- trates now first appointed are as follow : — Thomas Gill. Esq. Mayor ; J. Collier and T. Bewes, Esqrs. Members for the Borough ; G. W. Soltau, Esq. G. Coryndon, Esq. W. Prance, Esq. and J. King, Esq.
4th February, 1836*
SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL INFORMATION.
Plymouth is in the hundred of Roborough, its component parishes of St. Andrew's and Charles' being in the deanery of Plympton, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter. The perpetual curacy of St. Budeaux is annexed to the vicarage o: St. Andrew's. The vicar's income arises from the small tythes of the parish and the tything of Pennycross, compounded for by payment of two shillings in the pound on the rack rent ; from house property ; and from fees for parochial duties. The A icar of Charles' derives his income from the small tythes of Compton Gifford, compounded for by payment of two shillings in the pound on the rack rent ; and from fees for parochial duties. Service is performed in St. Andrew's Church every Wednesday and Friday ; the morning service commencing at half-past ten, and the afternoon ditto at three. On Sunday there are three services, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at half-past six. A sermon is preached after the morning service of Wednesday ; and on all Saint's days and certain fast days a sermon is delivered. Service is performed in Charles' Church thrice on Sunday, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at half-past six : also every Wednesday and Friday, at three in the after- noon. The annual visitation of the archdeacon is held in St. Andrew's, where the ceremony of confirmation is also performed.
The Borough was incorporated under the title of Plymouth in 1439 • and by successive charters, its government has been vested in a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common councilmen, a recorder, town clerk, chamberlain, coroner, three sergeants at mace, and a town corporal. The mayor is annually elected by the freemen on the 17th, and sworn on the 29th of September. The late mayor, the recorder, and two senior aldermen are also, with the mayor, justices of the peace within the borough. The magistrates hold quarter-ses- sion after the festivals of Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas, and Christmas, for all offences not capital. A court of record for the recovery of debts to an unlimited amount is held every Monday, and the Mayor sits every Monday and Thursday at the Guildhall, to determine minor offences. The peace of the town is secured by an efficient day and night police, the members of which have a regular uniform, as in the metropolis.
30 PLYMOUTH.
The direction of the paving, watching, and lighting is vested (by an act, passed 12th of April, 1824) in a body of com- missioners. The borough exerted the elective franchise in the 26th and 33rd of Edw. I. and in the 4th and 7th of Edw. II. after which it omitted to send representatives to parliament till the 20th of Henry IV. Since then it has regularly returned two members. By the act of 2nd of William IV. which extended the elective franchise to the £10 householders, the number of voters amounts to 1500. Thomas Bewes, and John Collier, Esqrs. (who still represent the borough) were the first members returned under the reform act. The mayor is returning officer. Plymouth is a polling place for the southern division of the county.
Plymouth is supplied with water by a rivulet or leat, which conducts from a source on Dartmoor, twenty-four miles distant, into a reservoir north of the town, from which main pipes extend through every inhabited quarter. This good work was effected pursuant to act of 27th of Elizabeth, by Sir Francis Drake ; and a contest has been for some time actively carried on between John Collier, Esq. M.P. and the Corporation, as to the right of the latter in the property of the water. To comment on the merits of the arguments advanced by the opposing parties were a liberty not to be taken by the humble author of this humble book, who cannot, however, help remarking that they have involved a decided case of " spirits and water " occasionally conducive to moral inebriety. Be it as it may, the water has long been under the conduct of " the mayor and commonalty of the borough of Plymouth," who lay down and keep in repair the main pipes* the branch pipes being grafted thereto at the expense of the housekeepers desiring them.
The annual payment by each house supplied is 16s. and the corporation derive further income from certain mills and manufactories that are worked by the leat. The Market is also a source of considerable means to the corporation. Market days, Monday , Thursday, and Saturday. Annual fairs in April and November.
A considerable timber trade is carried on with America, the Baltic, and Mediterranean ; and an immediate intercourse with the Mauritius and the West Indies insures a regular supply of imports on the most advantageous terms. Plymouth is a ware- housing Port for all articles in tables A, B, C, D, and E, of the warehousing act ; and is one of the Ports privileged for the importation and warehousing of tobacco. Here are also vast importations cf timber, hemp, and tallow, for the supply of the Royal Dock Yard. The coasting trade is chiefly with London, Newcastle, Newport (Wales), and Bristol. Great quantities of manganese are shipped to Scotland, lead to
SUPPLEMENT. 31
Bristol and London, and wool to Hull. Besides many chartered vessels, there are numerous others (of from 60 to 500 tons) belonging to Plymouth, employed in foreign trade. To the entire port it may be said that 350 merchantmen belong, whose combined burden amounts to 30,000 tons. Upwards of 50 decked boats, called Trawlers, supply the markets with fish of all kinds, whiting, pilchards and hake more particularly abounding. Large quantities of fish are exported to London, Bath, &e. The harbours of Plymouth are Sutton Pool and Catwater. The latter is almost surrounded by the lower part of the town, and is entered between two piers of solid masonry, erected by means of parliamentary grant in 1791 and 1799. Sutton Pool harbour, with certain of the quays and dwelling- houses, belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall, under which " the Sutton Pool Company, '' established by act of parliament in 1811, are lessees. This company also hold leases of other quays, &c. under the corporation of the borough, and are constantly effecting great improvements in the harbour. In addition to the old tolls of the Duchy, they have been granted certain others, for which they are bound to support a harbour master, to keep the channels clear of mud, to build new quays, to lay down mooring chains, &c.
At the western pier of the Barbican a great number of watermen ply for hire in their boats, but as they are not under particular regulations, persons employing them make the best bargains they can. The carts, horse-porters, and foot-porters, that are constantly in attendance on the different quays for hire, are, however, licensed and registered at the town-clerk's office, numbered, and placed under such strict rules and regulations, that in case of misconduct they are deprived of the privilege of attending the quays, on a proper representation being made to the magistrates at the Guildhall.
There are several shipwrights' yards, for building and repairing, within this harbour ; the quays are provided with cranes, &c. and vessels supplied with town-water at the Barbican steps.
Catwater, lying south-east of Sutton Pool, forms a capacious harbour, capable of receiving a thousand sail. The larger class of merchantmen, and the steam packets are moored here. From its quays vast quantities of lime stone, raised in the adjacent quarries of Catdown, Oreston, &c. are being con- stantly shipped. Here are also several shipwrights' yards. With respect to the property of this harbour, and the several persons who have jurisdiction over it, there is some difficulty in giving an accurate account, as many disputes have arisen on the subject, and it does not even now seem to be clearly defined ; but the following is believed to be a correct statement :
32 PLYMOUTH.
The mayor and commonalty of Plymouth, in the annual visitation of their bounds, direct the charity boys to embark from Catdown, at a place called the Bear's Head, and to row from thence in a line to the pier, called the Fisher's Nose ; it is understood, therefore, that the part thus included is so far within the jurisdiction of Plymouth, as to claim cognizance of offences committed there, and for the coroner of the borough to make inquiry into the cause of the death of persons in that part of the harbour. The mayor of Saltash possesses a right of collecting one shilling from all English vessels coming into it, two shillings from all foreign ships ; and claims likewise the privilege of his coroner having jurisdiction in a part of the harbour : it is supposed the lord of the manor of Plympton also has a right of taking oysters and fishing in the higher part.
Plymouth was, in 1834, constituted a stannary town. The neighbouring tin and other mines are numerous and productive. The vicinity also abounds in quarries of granite, slate, and marble, the latter being highly esteemed for its veining and susceptibility of polish. The export of granite, &e. is greatly facilitated by the rail road, which extends a length of 24 miles from the interior of Dartmoor to the quays of Catwater and Sutton Pool harbours. By the same means coal, lime, and manure are carried from the port into the interior. This important, undertaking was mainly effected through the spirited exertions of the late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, in 1818-20, when a company was formed, and a loan of £18,000 procured from government.
Near the Custom House (already described in page 25, Stranger's Guide) is the Exchange, erected in 1813, by means of £25 shares, the property being held on lease for 999 years. Its affairs are managed by an annually elected com- mittee, having a chairman, deputy ditto, treasurer, secretary, and accountant. The building includes a Chamber of Com- merce, Marine Insurance Office, Steam Packet Office, Shipping Insurance Office, Reading Room, &c.
The Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1813 to promote the commercial interests of Plymouth, is directed by a committee annually elected by ballot. The Earl of Morley, who has been repeatedly elected chairman, has greatly con- tributed to the successof the chamber. The Marine Insurance Office is open daily from ten to four. < During the first nine months of its formation in 1813, marine property, to the amount of near £373,000, was insured ; and the punctually regular and honourable conduct of the managing committee has been recorded as constituting the strongest hold on public confidence. The Oil Gas Company have also their office in the Exchange ; the works are in Exeter Street. The Plymouth,
SUPPLEMENT. 33
Devonport, Portsmouth, and Falmouth Steam Packet Company was formed in 1822, through the exertions of J. N. Hawker, Esq. All information connected with the water communication between Plymouth, Portsmouth, Pal- mouth, Guernsey, &c. may be obtained between ten and four at the Exchange. Near the latter is another Steam Packet Office where inquiries concerning water communication with London direct, or with Dublin and Belfast, will be answered.
The Excise Office is in Notte Street — Tide-Surveyor's Office and watch-house in Lower Street. (See Appendix.)
The Post Office (under the admirable conduct of Mr. Markes) is in Bilbury Street.
mails. arrive. depart.
Cornwall and North Devon, ? ~ ..- ~
via Callington J 6* 45' AM* 7* P'M'
London 7. 15. p.m. 7. a.m.
Cornwall, via Torpoint 7. 0 p.m. 6. a.m.
Bath and Bristol 10. 0 p.m. 5. p.m.
Penny-post messengers are despatched to the following places at 7. a.m. daily : — Knockersknowle, Jump, Saltash, and Oreston : also, twice a day, to Stonehouse ; and to Devonport at 6. a.m. — 3. p.m. and 7. 15. p.m. Receiving Boxes at the Office, at the Royal Hotel, and in Drake Street, Old Town.
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
The Workhouse is situated in a narrow street, leading south from the tower of St. Andrew's church. The entrance is into a spacious quadrangle, surrounded by buildings which constitute the original workhouse ; among these are the room for divine service, kitchens, and wards for the paupers. The inner division, subsequently added, contains the infirmary, with commodious and airy wards for male and female patients, the dispensary, the Hele and Lanyon charity school, bridewell, baths, &c.
A new building has been lately added to the south of the first quadrangle, including a spacious council-chamber, clerk's office, committee-room, waiting-room for applicants, who have an entrance from the street, apart from that which leads to the workhouse. This and several other improvements have been effected during the active governorship of Capt. Dolling, R N.
This establishment is supported by virtue of four acts of parliament ; the first of which was passed in 1708, and the subsequent ones in 1754, 1786, and 1813. The former act
34 PLYMOUTH.
directs, that a body shall be incorporated by the style and title of the Governor and Guardians of the Poor's Portion in Plymouth, to consist of fifty -two guardians, out of whom shall be elected a governor, deputy -governor, treasurer, receiver, and ten assistants to the governor. Of these guardians the mayor and recorder of the borough for the time being are always two ; the remainder are elected, six from the body of aldermen, and six from the common-council, twenty inhabitants of the parish of St. Andrew, and eighteen inhabitants of the parish of Charles. The election takes place on the second Tuesday in May. Every person who pays at the rate of sixpence per month towards the maintenance of the poor is qualified to vote for the persons proposed to be elected.
When the members of this corporation are elected, they assemble on the same day at the Guildhall, before the mayor and two aldermen, and proceed to the election, (by ballot) of their officers.
The guardians, who hold sittings every Tuesday and Friday in the council-chamber, constitute a court to relieve the immediate necessities of applicants, and to transact such other business as may come before them. The out-door poor of St. Andrew's receive their weekly stipend every Friday, those of Charles' every Saturday. All paupers maintained in the house, capable of manual labour, are employed in shoernaking, spinning, picking oakum, &c.
The master and mistress of the boys and girls' schools belonging to the corporation, receive their salaries from its funds ; but the Hele and Lanyon school is a distinct foundation. The Hospital of Poor's Portion being incorporated, its internal police is not subject to the direction of a magistrate ; the governor, as chief officer, possesses the power of committing offenders to the bridewell, for a period not exceeding seven days.
The Red Boys' School was established by the will of Elizeus Hele, Esq. of Wembury, in 1632. There are generally eight boys on this foundation, who are clothed, maintained, educated, and afterwards bound as apprentices. The income arises from various lands in the parishes of Brixton and Yealmpton,
The Blue Boys' School was founded by Mr. John Lanyon, a native of the town, who died at Oporto, and left the sum of two thousand pounds, to be applied in charitable purposes ; this sum, by what means, or by whose direction is not known, was applied towards the maintenance, clothing, and education of boys, who have been, in a great measure, incorporated with the Hele Charity ; there are usually twelve boys on this establishment. These charities are obliged, by the terms of the
SUPPLEMENT. 35
deeds for the endowment, to be stationed in the workhouse, and their management is vested in trustees.
Near the south-west angle of the workhouse is the Orphan's Aid Hospital, founded by Messrs. Thomas and Nicholas Sherwill, in 1625, for the reception of orphan cliildien ; in w|iich about twelve boys are clothed, maintained, and educated. The funds arise from lands and houses situated in and near the town. This charity is now administered by a committee of four aldermen, and two of the common-council, one of whom superintends, monthly, the care of the boys. The mistress provides board for the boys, who are instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, by a competent master. The accounts of this charity have been of late years kept completely distinct from those of the corporation, and are in a flourishing state.
The Corporation Free Grammar School, west of St. Andrew's church, was founded in the reign of Kenry VI. (when John Brock was appointed master, with ten marks per annum and a lodging over the gateway of the monastery : ) and, in 1572, Queen Elizabeth granted to the corporation the arrears of a rent charged upon the vicarage, on condition that they should maintain a lecturer in the parish church with £20 per annum, and a grammar master with a like sum. Two children of poor Freemen are educated on the foundation.
In St. Andrew's Almshouses twelve widows and a nurse reside, and are allowed one shilling and ninepence per week by the warden, who is annually elected out of the common- council, and has the privilege of appointing persons to fill up the vacancies that may occur during his year. Allowances of flour and money are periodically made.
The Workhouse Almshouse is behind the last-mentioned, and belongs to the governor and guardians of the poor. By this charity nine aged women are provided with a residence and a weekly stipend from the rates. The governor for the time being appoints the inmates.
The Grey School, in Hampton Street, was instituted in 1713, by some of the inhabitants, among whom was Canon Gilbert, then vicar of St, Andrew's. It is supported by volun- tary subscription, and the income from sums which have been left by benefactors. This school affords instruction to 100 boys, of whom 40 are clothed ; and to 60 girls, of whom 20 are clothed. The master has a salary of £50 per annum, the mistress £25, and both have apartments to reside in. Several sums have been left for raising monies to apprentice out the boys.
The Public School is instituted on the new mode of in- struction designed by Mr. Lancaster and Dr. Bell, and owes its rise and support to the meritorious exertions of its subscri- bers. Upwards of 300 boys and girls are instructed in moral
36 PLYMOUTH.
and religious duties, in reading, writing, and the rudiments of arithmetic. Members of all societies unite in forwarding its views, and the utmost concord prevails in its administration. — A book is kept in the school, in which a subscriber may enter the names of children proposed, giving a proper description of their situation, so as to enable the committee to judge of the ability of the parents to provide education themselves, and to prevent injury to the private schools. A committee meet on the first Tuesday in every month, when vacancies are reported and filled up by the selection of those candidates, who seem to re- quire the most urgent attention. There are no positive rules to direct the decision of the committee, who are actuated by a general impression that the neediest cases should be selected, without the slightest partiality. When children are selected, their parents attend with them at the school, and a copy of the rules, relating to their conduct both in and out of school, is given to their parents, with a strict charge that it be attended to ; inquiry is also made whether they be members of the Church of England, or of any dissenting society : if they belong to the former, they are instructed in the church catechism and doctrines, and attend divine service regularly at the church : but if of the latter, their names are transmitted to the pastor of that society, requesting him to observe that the child is re- gular in attendance at public worship, and is instructed in religious duties. The funds of the school, which arise from private subscriptions, are about £200 per annum. The master, a respectable man, has a salary of £70 per annum . The school is open for the inspection of the public every Tuesday and Friday, at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. The building is in a convenient and airy situation, in Cobourg Street.
Charles' Almshouses, at the head of Green Street, built in 1679, by Mr. Lanyon and others, contain 40 persons, nomi- nated by the governor of the poor, and relieved by weekly allowance from the parish.
Jory's Almshouses, in Jory Street, were erected in 1703, by Colonel Jory, a native of the town, for widows of deceased mariners ; the present trustees under his will appoint the inmates. Each widow receives an allowance of one pound five shillings per month, from money arising from the rent of several houses in the town.
The Household of Faith, in Vermel Street, was erected out of a fund raised by private subscription and testamentary bequests. About 180 female children are here educated in re- ligious duties, in reading, writing, and plain work. It is maintained by private subscription, and collections occasion- ally made for it in Charles' church. The late Dr. Hawker was most active in the establishment of this charity.
SUPPLEMENT. 3?
Behind Sussex Place is a range of New Almshouses, erected in 1834, pursuant to the will of the late Francis Fox, Esq. for twelve women above 50 years of age, who have been resident not less than one year in the borough. The sum bequeathed amounted to £1200.
Dame Betty Rogers's School is a charity bequeathed by the will of Lady Rogers, for the education of girls only, who are clothed, maintained, and so educated as to qualify them for good household servants. The number at present is forty- five. The building, which is hired, is situated in an airy situ- ation, on the Tavistock turnpike-road. The income arises from money in the funds, and amounts to £300 per annum.
Connected with the Presbyterian chapel is a school for the clothing and education of 50 girls, instituted in 1785, and chiefly supported by contributions. The school-house where the mistress resides adjoins the chapel.
Kelway's Trust. — The Rev. Mr. Kelway left money in the funds, the interest to be applied to the education of his rela- tions, whether boys or girls, and to afford a similar benefit to such poor boys as might be surplus claimants on the Grammar School. The trustees are the vicars of the two parishes, the master of the Grammar School, and the lecturer of St.Andrew's church, who select the boys, always preferring those who are related to the founder. When the funds admit of it, the boys are occasionally sent to Oxford, and take holy orders.
There are in Plymouth a Mendicity Society, Female Bene- volent Society, Blanket Society, Provident Society, Female Penitentiary, Female Orphan Asylum, several Bible Societies, Tract ditto, Societies for promoting Christianity, Auxiliary Missionary Societies, and Sunday Schools connected with almost every place of worship in the town.
As intimately connected with the well-being of the poor, we may here allude to Mr. Gill's Chapel on the Hoe, already mentioned, (Introductory Sketch, page9) and to the Mariners' Church, in the establishment of which the Rev. John Hatchard, Vicar of St. Andrew's^ successfully exerted himself some time back with his usual pious zeal. To the important end of supplying the religious wants of the sailors, fishermen, &c. of the port, he took the lease of a large store-room in the vicinity of the quays, and fitted it up for the accommodation of 500 persons. It was opened by license of the Bishop in February, 1832, and has continued to be thus sacredly employed under the vicar's personal care, and by the aid of voluntary contribution.
The Public Dispensary is in Catherine Street, near the workhouse. It originated in 1798 ; but the present building
38 PLYMOUTH,
was not erected until 1807. A marble tablet in the committee room records a bequest of £100Q by the late Charles Yonge, Esq. (an eminent medical practitioner in the town) which was preserved entire to the institution by the Rev. Duke Yonge, who paid the legacy duty amounting to £100. Another tablet commemorates the late William Woollcombe, Esq. M.D. one of the earliest and most zealous patrons of the Dispensary. It is governed by a president, vice-president, treasurer, secietary, and a committee, annually chosen. Two physicians, eight surgeons, and two surgeon-dentists attend gratuitously, and the poor are visited at their own houses as occasion may require. An apothecary attends daily (Sundays excepted) at a salary of £50 per annum ; and there is also a resident matron with £10. lQs. per annum, and apartments rent free. It is supported by voluntary contribution, and the number of patients admitted from the lime of its establishment to Christmas, 1834, amounted *o about 40,000
The Eye Infirmary, in Westwell Street, originated with Dr. J . Butter, F.R.S. and Dr. E, Moore, who, in 1821, set forth the necessity of the institution so strongly as immediately to induce subscriptions to a considerable amount. It is supported entirely by voluntary contributions, and patients are admitted by the subscribers' recommendations. In-patients are expected to contribute 3s. 6d. per week from their respective parishes, and to bring a change of linen. The institution is governed by a patron, vice-patron, and patroness ; a president, vice- president, and treasurer, (the last three annually elected) and a committee annually chosen. The medical directors consist of one physician, two resident surgeons, and one corresponding surgeon. Their services, together with those of the treasurer and secretary, are gratuitous, the dispenser receiving a salary of £25 per annum. During thirteen years from the foundation near 70QO patients, have been assisted, and the committee, in their report for 1834, express themselves as looking forward to the erection of a building more suitable to the institution than the small house now rented for its purposes.
The " South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital " will, it is confidently expected, soon arise as the leading medical and surgical asylum in this part of the country. The court of governors of the "Plymouth Public Dispensary," encouraged by the liberal donations already made, and their rapidly increasing subscription list, have purchased a piece of ground adjoining Sussex Place, Princess Square, as the most eligible site for a building to answer the joint purposes of the existing Dispensary, and a general Hospital for in-patients. The pro- jectors* adverting to the fact that there is no such establishment
SUPPLEMENT. 39
nearer to Plymouth than that of Barnstaple on the north, of Exeter on the east, and of Truro on the west, naturally look for contributions and subscriptions from the numerous inter- vening towns and parishes ; and the measures towards this great good are now in such active operation as to leave no doubt that it will be speedily and liberally effected.
Banking Houses.— Branch Bank of England, St. Andrew's Terrace. — Naval Bank, (Harris, Rosdew, Harris, and Co.) near the Guildhall, in Whimple Street. — Devon and Cornwall Banking Company, Bedford Street.
In addition to the literary and scientific institutions noticed in the former part of this work, viz, the Public Library and Athersum, is the Mechanic's Institute, first established in 1825. The building in Princess Square was opened in December, 1827, when Dr. Cookworthy delivered an introduc- tory paper worthy of his acknowledged character for sterling argument and eloquent perspicuity. £100 was presented to this society by T. Greaves, Esq. The institution consists of about 130 members who are admitted to all the privileges of the society by quarterly payments of 3s. 3d. The Library is open on Tuesday and Friday from 8 to 10 in the evening, and contains about 1000 volumes* Lectures are regularly delivered on Wednesdays from November to April inclusive. Strangers are admitted by payment of Is. per lecture. Several classes (as Chemical, French, Drawing Classes, &c.) meet here for mutual improvement.
The Medical Sootety, instituted 25th April, 1794, Consists of fifteen subscribers, elected by ballot as vacancies occur, and of fifteen or more associates. It is supported by subscriptions from the members and associates, the latter having no right in the property, nor voice in its management. Its object embraces the entire field of medical literature, and the library contains upwards of 700 volumes. This society originated with Samuel Fuge, Esq. a retired practitioner of Plymouth.
The Law Library was established 13th June, 1815. Its members consist exclusively of professional gentlemen prac- tising as barristers or attorneys. They are elected by ballot and must either be proprietors of, or subscribers to, the Public. Library. The officers, consisting of a president, treasurer, secretary, and committee of seven, are annually elected in October. The books (now amounting to 600) are deposited in the Public Library, and are open to the reference of any proprietor of that library, though he be not of the legal profession.
Two Newspapers are issued weekly in Plymouth, viz. " The Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse Herald," published
b 2
40
PLYMOUTH.
on Saturday, by Nettleton and Co. of Whimple Street,* and the "Plymouth and Devonport Weekly Journal," pub- lished on Thursday, by Mr. W. E. Gill, 63, Old Town Street. There are also three Devonport, and several Exeter papers which include " Plymouth " in their title. " The South Devon Monthly Museum " is a respectably conducted and interesting periodical, published by Mr. G. Hearder, in Buckwell Street. The " West Devon and Cornwall Flora," by the Rev. J. Jacob, LL.D. is just advertised as about to appear in monthly numbers.
It remains for us to notice the Riding School, just erected by Mr. Elliot, in Frankfort Lane ; an establishment that has long been wanted, and will, no doubt, meet with encouragement. — It is also in contemplation to erect a spacious mews, to com- bine all necessary conveniences for horses and carriages, with rooms for the transaction of business connected with the turf, a forge, surgery, &c. The originators of this scheme were Edmund Pym and E. Gabriel, Esqrs.
The Racks originated at a rustic fete held in 1827, on a marsh near Crabtree, when the meniment of pony and donkey racing, pole climbing, and jumping in sacks, led to results more important ; as, shortly after, a meeting convened by public advertisement was held at the Royal Hotel, (the F^arl of Morley in the chair,) and the Plymouth, Devonport, and Cornwall Races were established. It was then decided that they should in future take place on Chelson Meadow, situated on the other side of the Laira, about a mile and a quarter from Plymouth. A temporary course was prepared for 1828, since which the present course has been made at au expense of between 400 and £500. It is a mile and a half in circumference, nearly of an oval figure, and quite flat. In 1829 the grand stand was built, combining the ladies' stand, the betting stand over, retiring rooms behind, and a spacious hall for refreshments below. In 1828, through the interest of the noble chairman, the gracious donation of a gold cup, value 100 guineas, was granted by His Majesty, as Lord High Steward of Plymouth, and has since been annually continued. In 1831, when His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex was chosen Lord High Steward (on His Majesty's resigning that office,) he gave a plate of 50 sovereigns, which also is annually contributed. Resides these, a larger amount of public money is here ran for than at any other meeting in the kingdom. Plymouth gives a plate of 100 sovereigns, Devonport and Stonehouse lOOsover-
* The Plymouth "Herald" is, in fart, published on Friday evening, though bearing Saturday's date.
SUPPLEMENT. 41
eigns, the ladies 50 sovereigns, the officers of the united service 50 sovereigns, amounting, with minor sums added to different stakes, to between 400 and £500. The great attraction of the meeting, however, is the Saltram stakes of 25 sovereigns each, which have gradually increased from sixteen subscribers (with which it commenced) to sixty-two, and its average value is from 300 to 500 guineas. Two stewards officiate annually, one of whom is chosen from Cornwall, and theotherfrom Devonshire. .Race Balls take place at Whiddon's Royal Hotel. In 1830 the races received important additional support from the institution of "The Royal Plymouth, Devonport, and Corn- wall Race Association" of which His Majesty is patron, the Duke of Sussex, vice-patron, the Duke of Bedford, Earl of Morley, Lord Valletort and Lord Eliot, vice-presidents, C* Harris, Esq. treasurer, E. N. Gabriel, Esq. secretary, and one hundred and seventy of the sporting characters of the two counties are members, at the annual subscription of one sovereign. This meeting is generally held the first week in August, and continues three days. The Plymouth and Devonport Spring Races were established in 1831, and are principally for hunters ; the principal race is for the Lyneham stakes, after which there is a hurdle race.
This information has been most obligingly afforded by E. N. Gabriel, Esq. clerk of the course.
The inhabitants of the three towns also derive great amuse- ment from the Regatta, which takes place annually on or about the last Wednesday in July, and is most advantageously viewed from the summit and declivities of the Hoe. It were ungallant to question whether the yachts on the sea, or the ladies on land, contribute most to the attractiveness of the day » Certain it is, however, that the mere scene, independently of its great nautical interest, proves highly entertaining.
The Royal Western Yacht Club (English division) consists of subscribing and honorary members, elected by ballot, (one black ball in seven to exclude.) Themanagementisvestedina commodore, vice-ditto, twelve presidents, twenty-four vice- ditto, and a committee of twenty-six. The members pay one guinea annually. Officers of the army and navy in actual service are admissable as honorary members, but no other persons within ten miles of Plymouth are eligible. The mem- bers of this club have the privilege of entering certain foreign ports free of port charges.
To entitle members keeping yachts to all the privileges of the club, they must hold a commission, signed by a president and chairman of the council, and countersigned by the treasurer and secretary, which may be had on payment of the following fees, b 3
42 PLYMOUTH.
First Year. Annually.
Under 15 tons £2 2 £11
15 to 30 tons 3 3 2 2
Above 30 tons 4 4 3 3
Members of the yacht squadron, or of any royal yacht club, having the privileges of the yacht squadron, may be admitted members of the club and receive the commission, on paying one guinea annually, but their yachts are not exempt from entrance fees at the Plymouth Regatta.
The yachts of the Irish division are under the direction of the English commodore, when on the coast of England, and yachts of the English division under that of the Irish commodore, when on the coast of Ireland. The signal flags in both divisions are the same.
An annual general meeting of the members is held at the Club-room on the second Tuesday in April, to elect the council, and transact other business.
Stated meetings of the council are held at the club-room on the last Tuesday in January, the last Tuesday in April, the last Tuesday in June, and the last Tuesday in October. There are also special meetings. The sailing at the regatta is managed by a committee of nine. The members of the club have dress and undress uniforms, andeach yacht has established flags and signals. A club dinner takes place on the day after the regatta, and a ball is annually held in aid of the funds.
The Royal Devon and Cornwall Botanical and Horticultural Society was established in the year 1830, for promoting the study and practice of botany and horticulture, and for improving the condition of the humble cottager and industrious labourer, by the distribution of prizes. Three exhibitions take place in the year, viz. in May at the Royal Hotel, Plymouth ; in July at the Town Hall, Devonport ; and in September at Plymouth again.
The society consists of fellows, cottage subscribers, honorary and corresponding members. The fellows are divided into two classes, the first comprising subscribers of one guinea or more per annum ; the second consisting of gentlemen's gardeners, market or jobbing gardeners, and other persons whose annual subscription amounts to the sum of ten shillings and sixpence. Both these classes are eligible to sit on committees, to be judges of prizes, and to have a voice in the affairs of the society.
The cottage subscribers consist exclusively of agricultural and other labourers, whose wages do not exceed 15s. per week, and who occupy houses, the rent of which does not exceed £15 per annum. They pay 2s. 6d. per annum, and are only admitted with the consent of the major part of the
SUPPLEMENT. 43
committee present. They are privileged to compete for all prizes assigned to the fellows (who, however, are not suffered to compete for prizes with them) ; but are not entitled to any interest in the property of the society, nor are they eligible to seats in the committee, nor to any other office.
Honorary members consist of such persons as the fellows think proper to elect, whether for their rank in society, their celebrity as botanists or horticulturists, or in any other department of science,
Contributors of ten guineas and upwards, at one time, are considered presidents and fellows for life of the first class, enjoying all the advantages of annual subscribers of one guinea > and for every additional ten guineas are entitled to an increased number of tickets of admission to the exhibitions in an adequate proportion to their donations. The presidents, vice-presidents, secretaries, treasurer, and a committee of twenty -four, are elected annually on the first Tuesday in February. The com- mittee meet for the ordinary dispatch of business on the first Tuesday in every month.
Any person desirous of becoming a member, must be pro- posed and seconded by members of the society at any meeting of the committee, and balloted for at a succeeding meeting, provided there shall at that time be seven members present. Should the requisite number not be present, the chairman is empowered to call a special meeting for that particular object. The judges are at least twelve in number, viz. : — three for fruits ; three for flowers ; three for vegetables ; and three for cottagers' prizes ; and are selected for their peculiar acquaintance with the objects on which they are to decide. Their decision is final.
Each subscriber of the first class is entitled to three trans- ferable tickets for every guinea of annual subscription, (together with a ticket for a cottage visitor, admitting the bearer at the hours of the shilling admission, but not entitling him to be a competitor for prizes); each subscriber of the second class to two ; and each subscriber of the cottagers' class to one transferable ticket.
Fellows of the first and second classes, with their friends, are admitted to the exhibition one hour before the doors are opened to the public generally.
Admittance by checks, at 2s. 6d. each, is allowed from one to four o'clock in the afternoon ; and by checks at Is. each, from that hour to the close of the exhibition at five. The representatives of the counties of Devon and Cornwall in Parliament are honorary members ; also the officers for the time being of the Plymouth Institution -} and the officers for the
44 PLYMOUTH.
time being of the Devon and Exeter, North Devon, and Royal Cornwall Botanical and Horticultural Societies.
HISTORIC SKETCH.
Whether Plymouth occupies the site of the ancient Tameor- iverthe has not been yet positively determined. If, however, it had attained any consequence before the conquest, it sub- sequently lost it ; since, according to Lel.md, it was in the time of Henry II. a "mean habitation for fishers." It was formerly called Sutton, or South Town, and comprised the three divisions of Sutton Ralph, Sutton Prior, and Sutton Valletort. Ralph was the name of the first Prior of Plympton, appointed 1 121, and Walter de Valle-Torta was among the benefactors of that priory, whence it would seem that this now important place was, at that time, dependent on the once important Abbey of Plympton. It appears from a record in the time of Richard II. that it was occasionally called " Plymouth ;" and, in the latter part of the reign of Henry IV. it is spoken of as 11 Sutton, otherwise Plymouth." In 1253, Henry III. granted the Prior of Plympton a market and fair, with a right of holding weekly courts, and assize of bread and beer, view of frank pledge, and power to inflict the punishments of the pillory and ducking-stool. Members were first sent to parlia- ment in the time of Edward I. ; but this privilege seems to have been suspended during the reign of Edward II. nor was it resumed until after the accession of Henry VI. Plymouth was, at an early period, a place of occasional rendezvous for the British Navy. From hence the Black Prince sailed on his expedition in 3355, and here he disembarked with his Royal prisoner, the King of France.
The French effected a landing here in the course of this reign, but were driven back to their ships by Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire. After various other attempts, they landed in the reign of Henry IV. and burnt 600 houses ; but, failing to reduce the castle, they retreated, and proceeded to Dartmouth where several hundred of them were made prisoners. In the reign of Henry VI. the Prior of Plympton, by granting liberal leases, induced a motive for building and residence greatly eondusive to the improvement of the port.
A petition, dated 1411, urges the necessity of fortifications ; but the measure was not acceded to till 1439, when, "among other privileges, the inhabitants had the grant of a toll on all merchandize'* to enable them to execute the work; and it is
SUPPLEMENT. 45
doubtless, to these fortifications Leland alludes, when he says, M the mouth of the gulph where the ships of Plymouth lie, is walled on each side and chained over in time of necessity. On the S.W. side of the mouth is a blockhouse ; and, on a rocky hill hard by it is a strong castle quadrate, having at each corner a great round tower." A map in the British Museum, taken in the reign of Henry VIII. exactly corresponds with this description.
By the Act of 1439, in pursuance of which the town was fortified, it was also incorporated under the name of Plymouth, the manor of Sutton Prior with alt its rights, &c. being settled on the corporation, with a reserved annual rent of £40 payable to the Prior of Plympton, and an annuity of ten marks to the Abbot of Bath. After the dissolution of monasteries, the advowson and tithes of Plymouth church, which had hitherto belonged to the monks of Plympton, were vested in the body corporate. In 1512, an Act was passed for enlarging and strengthening the fortifications; and to all who contributed to this work.. Bishop Lacy granted a liberal indulgence. In 1531, the tin miners were prohibited from working in the neighbour- hood of any river communicating with the sea at Plymouth, inasmuch as it had occasioned an accumulation of sand at the mouth of the harbour, and had proved detrimental to the fresh water used by the inhabitants. In the 27th of Queen Elizabeth, the renowned Sir Francis Drake obtained an act for bringing a stream of water from Dartmoor into t e town, as more pa'ticularly alluded to in page 30 of this work. In 1579 and 1581 the plague raged in Plymouth with gieat violence. In 1588 the British Fleet (to which Plymouth contributed seven ships) rendezvoused in the Sound under the command of Sir F. Drake, Lord Howard, and Sir John Hawkins. The issue of the contest between the British and the Invincible armadas is too well known to need further comment. As the comic song has it,
"Our Admiral drake He made them all duck,"
and the positive intentions of Don Whiskerandos Medina, comfortably to possess himself of Mount Edgcumhe as his "island home," were not quite so "positive" as the broadsides of the British Commander.
In 1596, the British Fleet again assembled at Plymouth, prior to its successful expedition against Cadiz, under the joint command of the Earls of Essex and Nottingham, Lord Howard being the vice, and Sir Walter Raleigh the rear admiral. It was also from hence that the Earl of Essex sailed on his unfortunate expedition to Ireland.
46 PLYMOUTH.
In 1625, Charles I. with his entire court, and 6000 troops arrived here from Portsmouth, and the monarch and his suite were sumptuously entertained by the mayor and commonalty. But "change makes change;" and in 1643, Plymouth was distinguished by its gallant resistance to the royalists com- manded by Prince Maurice and Col. Digby, who where compelled to withdraw their forces after a siege of more than three months. In 1644, the royalists under Sir R. Grenville again made several unsuccessful attacks, and Prince Maurice only repeated his attempts to give additional proof to the impregnability of the town. Grenville v/as subsequently left to make the experiment of a blockade ; but in this he was thwarted by the timely arrival of his opponent, the Earl of Essex. Aided by the " King's name " — that " tow'r of strength " the royalists were yet unable to effect the subjugation of Plymouth, and Charles left Sir. R. Grenville to the direction of a second blockade. This was continued from Sept. 14th, 1644, to January 10th, 1646, when, after several ineffectual assaults, the spirited inhabitants were left in quiet possession of the important post they had so bravely defended. Some of the military works at this time erected are still perceptible around the town. It appears that the town, however attached to the parliamentary cause, was not without sympathy for the unfortunate monarch whom they had opposed, as their new church, the erection of which had been interrupted by the civil wars, was, on its completion, dedicated to Charles.
After the restoration the present citadel was erected, and surveyed by Charles II. who visited Plymouth in 1670 and 1676. In 1683, the corporation charter was surrendered to the King on the requisition of Judge Jeffries, and a new one obtained at a great expense, vesting the government of the town in ten aldermen and twelve assistants. In 1697, the old charter was re-obtained.
The first lighthouse on the Eddystone was erected in 1696, by Mr. H. Winstanley, who perished with the building during a furious tempest in November, 1703. A second lighthouse constructed in 1706-1709 by Mr. Rudyerd, was destroyed by accidental fire, December 2nd, 1755 ; and on June 1st, 1757, the first stone of the present lighthouse was laid. It was completed August 24th, 1759. In 1782, Lord Boringdon (now Earl of Morley ) was honoured with the presence of George III. at Saltram ; and in 1789, that monarch, with his queen and several members of the royal family, visited the Dock-Yard.
Among the principal occurrences since the dawn of the 19th century, as connected with the history of Plymouth, may be mentioned the commencement of the Breakwater, August 12th,
SUPPLEMENT. 47
1812 ; and the erection of the Royal Hotel and Theatre in 1813. The year 1815 is rendered memorable in our annals by the appearance of H.M.S. Bellerophon, having on board the ex-Emperor of France, Napoleon le Grand ! His exile being determined on, he was conveyed to the island of St. Helena on board the Northumberland. An interesting picture of Napoleon, as he then appeared gazing from the gangway on the thousands of spectators who daily assembled round the Bellerophon, was painted by C. L. Eastlake Esq. R.A. and now hangs in the Hall of Heanton Satchville, in Devon, the seat of Lord Clinton. In August, 1824, the foundation stone of Lary Bridge was laid ; and in the November of the same year occurred a furious hurricane, which greatly damaged the Breakwater, and occasioned a frightful loss of life and property in the Sound and Catwater harbour — many vessels were wrecked, and the lower part of the town was flooded to a con- siderable depth. In 1826, Chelson Meadow, (which had been recovered from the sea by an embankment raised by the Earl of Morley,) was established as the course for the Plymouth and Devonport Races. The year 1828 was dis- tinguished by a visit from his present Majesty William IV. (then Duke of Clarence) who attended the Athenaeum, when W. S. Harris, Esq. had the honour of delivering a paper illustrating the advantages of his newly-invented lightning conductors as applied to the preservation of ships. In the same year the contemptible Miguel of Portugal darkened the town with his presence ; and, in 1830, three thousand adherents to the legitimate cause of his brother Don Pedro took refuge here.
On the 16th of May, 1832, the Hoe became the scene of an immense public assemblage, uniting the reformers of the three towns, who met to petition the House of Commons "to with- hold its confidence and the public supplies from any minister who might not support unmutilated and unimpaired" the measure of parliamentary reform. This meeting was occasioned by the resignation of Earl Grey on the second defeat of his measures in the House of Lords.
On the 27th of June following, the reformers of the three towns again united, to celebrate by a triumphal procession the passing of the Reform Bill.
In the autumn of 1832, Plymouth, with its neighbouring towns, and the Kingdom in general, was severally visited by the Cholera. The total number of cases reported within the borough, was 1805 — number of deaths 702. On Wednesday, 10th October, (the pestilence having disappeared) the churches and chapels were open for a public thanksgiving. In Stone- house there were 286 cases, and 132 deaths ; in Devonport 408 cases, and 197 deaths,
48 PLYMOUTH.
On the lith of December, 1832, Messrs. Bewes and Collier were elected the first members for the borough under the Reform Act. The election was uncontested. Their prede- cessors in parliament were Sir T. B. Martin and Sir George Cockburn.
In August, 1833 Plymouth was honoured by the presence of Her R.H. the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria, who, after landing at the Dock Yard, Devonport, proceeded to VVhiddon's Royal Hotel, where a loyal address was presented to them by the mayor and commonalty. During the visit of their Royal Highnesses, the 89th regiment was presented with new colours by the Princess Victoria, and the troops were inspected by Lord Hill, commander of H.M. forces.
During the month of January, 1835, the town was in a considerable state of excitement, caused by the re-appearance of Sir George Cockburn, (by proxy, in the person of his brother Sir James) as the tory candidate, to represent the borough of Plymouth. The contest was carried on with great warmth, and concluded with the re-election of Thomas Bewes and John Collier, Esqrs. staunch adherents to the reform interest.
STONEIIOUSE.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
Inns.
Hale's Brunswick Hotel, near the Bridge Gate, affords excellent accommodation, both as to house and stabling. The establishment is conducted in a most respectable and satisfactory manner. The Prince George, Crown Inn, on the Quay, and the Buckingham Arms, in Edg- cumbe Street, afford accommodation for strangers.
Lodging Houses.
These are chiefly in Union Street, and on the east side of Durnford Street. In the latter are also some re- spectable Boarding-Houses.
The first object that may arrest the stranger's attention in passing from Plymouth into Stonehouse is the estab- lishment of the
United Gas Company,
at Mill-Bay, whence the three towns are supplied, and by which a direct line of nearly four miles, from the eastern turnpike-gate at Plymouth, to the gate of the dock-yard at Devonport, is illumined. The gasometers, three in number, are discernible to every passenger by the new road from Plymouth over the marshes ; and per- mission to view the works is readily granted.
The principal streets in Stonehouse are those forming and a rectilinear continuation of Union Street, Plymouth, the united thoroughfare of Chapel Street and Durnford
50 STOREHOUSE.
Street, extending at a right angle from the west end of the former, towards the Sound on the south. The shops will chiefly be found in Edgcumbe and Chapel Streets. The older part of the town lies to the north, which includes the Royal Naval Hospital. The southern part is constantly increasing, particularly in the neigh- bourhood of Durnford Street, Emma Place, &c. which are almost entirely occupied by genteel families, chiefly those of naval and military officers, and other persons holding situations under the government.
St. George's Parochial Chapel,
In Chapel Street, is externally an unadorned stone build- ing, with a disproportioned tower, and presents no display of architectural taste. The interior is fitted up in a neat style, with commodious galleries on three sides, a singing gallery, and an organ. The incumbent, who is a perpetual curate, is appointed by the vicar of St. Andrew's Plymouth, which is the mother church. — The present chapel was erected in 1789, and is sur- rounded by the burying-ground.
At the south end of Durnford Street is
St. Paul's Chapel,
An edifice in the earliest Pointed Style, first opened for divine service on the 5th July, 1831. It was erected from designs by Mr. Foulston, (the tender for its execution amounting to £2630,) and affords seats for nearly 1100 persons, of which the greater number are free. The architect's means were limited as to internal decoration ; but the building taken altogether, and particularly as regards the exterior (in any point of view), holds out a confident challenge to criticism. The minister of St. Paul's is appointed by the incumbent of the parish of Stonehouse. It will be observed that the Chapel, and several handsome houses to the west, form part of an extended scheme in progress, the realization
stranger's guide. 51
of which is in no mean degree dependent on ..the fasci- nating character of the water scenery in the immediate vicinity. To this we have already alluded in our intro- ductory remarks, and shall again take occasion to do so in describing the Victualling-Office.
The other places of worship are the Established Cha- pel, in the Royal Naval Hospital; the Roman Catholic Chapel, in Pearl Street ; the Independent Calvinist Chapel, in Barrack Street; the Methodist Chapel, in Edgcumbe Street; and the Ebenezer Baptist Chapel, in Union Street.
The Royal Marine Barracks
are situated at the back of Durnford Street, on the western shore of Mill-bay, where a convenient landing- place is constructed. The buildings form an oblong square ; in front, on entering, are the apartments for the privates — those of the officers are on two of the sides. On the west side are the entrance gates, and a newly- erected guard-house. The barracks are regularly and handsomely built, have a hospital, and will accommodate nearly 1000 men. The mess apartments are spacious and well furnished, and the officers have a very good library.
The Marine Band is justly noted as of more than common excellence, and forms a source of genuine delight to the inhabitants of the vicinity, who daily assemble within the parade to enjoy the performances which take place at certain stated hours.
The Long Room Barracks, of which former guide- books speak, have recently been dismantled, and the materials sold. The mess room, with its offices, a substantial building, remains. It was formerly (before its purchase by government) an assembly room, and is a spacious apartment with a painted ceiling.
We are now in the immediate neighbourhood of the great lion of Stonehouse,
c 2
52 S10NEH0USE.
"The Royal William Victualling Yard,"
which lies at a short distance to the S.W. of St. Paul's chapel. The visitor's attention will first be arrested by the grand
Entrance Gate,
with its lofty central arch and lateral passage ways, its emblematical sculptures and crowning pedestal, sur- mounted by the statue of His Majesty William the Fourth. The two opposing colonnades, extending in- ward, will next command admiration ; nor can we but anticipate the acknowledgment, that, as a piece of sterling architecture, taken altogether, it forms a Pro- pylceum worthy of the noble establishment to which it leads. With the exception of the statue (which is of Portland stone) the whole building is of beautiful granite ; and as specimens of the extreme nicety to which this material can be worked, the ox's heads over the piers, and, more particularly, the cables and anchors over the lateral doors may be mentioned. It will be observed, that the shafts of the columns forming the internal avenue, are each of one stone. The leading dimensions are as follow: —
Feet Ins.
Height of central opening 25 2
Width of ditto 14 6
Height to top of blocking course over ? q« in
cornice 5
Height of pedestal 12 0
Height of figure 13 6
Total height to crown of statue 62 4
Entire extent of front 63 6
Entire depth from outer front of arch to ~)
outer angles of the two buildings at 5- 119 0
ends of colonnades J
Height of columns within 13 0
After passing the gateway, we see at a short distance to the left, the neat granite-fronted residences of the two
E
3
Zzm^EEmE^--
_Ma^on' o/tJit (-ale JTa),
STOREHOUSE .
STRANGER S GUIDE. 53
principal resident officers. Immediately on the right is the baking establishment, comprising a quadrangular range of buildings 250 feet by 200 feet, inclosing an architectural chimney shaft of granite 150 feet high. Further on is the Melville quadrangle, 240 feet square, with its rusticated granite archway, (27ft. 9ins. high and 15ft. 6ins. broad) and clock-chamber of the same material, making altogether an elevation of 95ft. Gins, and forming a magnificent centre piece 61 feet wide. Opposite this is the bason 250 by 200, surrounded by quays of granite, save where an iron swing bridge vaults over a 45 feet opening into Stonehouse Pool. Answering the great bakehouse, on the opposite side of the bason, is the brew- house similar in dimensions and external character to the former, and having a corresponding chimney shaft. Passing onwards in a direct line from the entrance, we find the irregular quadrangle of the cooperage on our left ; and beyond this we arrive at the Clarence stores, (340 feet long and 50 feet broad) in front of which is the Clarence wharf, extending its spacious platform over a length of 500 feet, and terminated by a water entrance, distinguished by its double flight of steps and massive piers, the latter exquisitely wrought, and the whole of granite. Taking the Clarence, in conjunction with the other line of wharfs, with which it forms an obtuse angle, we have, as it were, a marine terrace of about 1500 feet ; nor will the spectator fail to comment on the singularly interesting prospect commanded by the Clarence wharf, whence a part of Mount Edgcumbe, the entrance into Hamoaze, (with, most likely, the flag ship in full view) a portion of the Dock Yard, and the houses of the admiral and governor on Mount Wise. To facilitate this general description of the leading features and their localities, a small plan is subjoined.
A. Grand Entrance. — BB. Officer's Houses. — C. Bakehouse. — D. Melville Stores. — E. Bason. — F. Brewhouse. — G. Cooperage. — H. Clarence Stores. — I. Water Entrance. — K. Clarence Wharf. — LL. other
c 3
54 STOREHOUSE.
wharfs. — M. opening into Tunnel. — N. Reservoir on the top of the rock, exalted above the level of the excavated Yard. — O. is the Slaughter-house. The entire premises occupy an extent of about thirteen acres, of which per- haps six acres have been recovered from the sea, the materia] for that purpose being derived from the ex- cavations made in preparing the remainder of the site. The labour attendant on this operation may be the better conceived, by knowing that the quantity of rock removed is estimated at 300,000 tons!' The sea wall abounding the 1500 feet of wharf, (as before described) was sup- plied with its foundation, and built up to the water level by means of diving bells. The wall is founded at from 8 to 9 feet under low water mark, springtides, and rises a total height of about 30 feet. Its face is curved in- wards at a radius of 71/ 6" to resist the internal pressure of the ground. The lofty wall built against the residue rock, on which the reservoir is situated, is also curved in like manner. The latter is nearly 50 feet high. The reservoir, (neatly finished with granite and lime stone, and surrounded with an iron railing) measures nearly 200 by 150 feet square, and will contain nearly 7000 tons of water. This communicates by cast iron pipes with another reservoir two miles distant, in Four Field Lane, Plymouth, and which is supplied by a stream from Dartmoor. The general facing of the several quadrangles, &c. is of wrought lime stone ; but the cornices, plinths, and various "dressings," with the more decorative portions of the principal fronts, are of granite. The Clarence, Melville stores, and Cooperage, have iron roofs, and the latter has also fire-proof floors, laid with 4-ins. York Paving, on iron girders. The cooper's shops are built in the centre of the cooperage yard, to prevent fire being communicated to the surrounding buildings. The top of each roof is covered with copper : the lateral inclinations with slate. The door and window- frames are of cast iron, also the internal columns sup- porting the girders, &c. of floors. To provide against
STRANGER S GUIDE. 55
the difficulty of getting vessels round the Point in certain states of the wind or tide, a tunnel has been constructed leading immediately from the sound to the back of the yard, into which it opens through a handsome rusticated archway near the two houses of the resident officers.
The Melville quadrangle includes the offices of the establishment, and store-rooms for wet and dry provisions, and slop clothing, &c. The Clock over the centre is a noble machine by Vulliamy.
The Clarence stores are also for wet and dry pro- visions.
The Brewhouse is furnished with a steam-engine of 40 horse power, by which the grinding of malt, mashing, pumping, &c. is effected. A similar engine is also em- ployed in the bakehouse, where there are twenty-five pair of mill-stones, affording the means of grinding a thousand bushels of meal in ten hours. The manner in which the meal is sorted and sifted deserves particular attention.
The baking department is also most interesting, and in ten hours the whole process is effected of converting simple flour into 2450 pounds weight of biscuit.
Having viewed the yard, the stranger will not fail to visit the reservoir above, whence he will have a bird's- eye view of this vast establishment. From the Point lower down he will command that most choice prospect of Mount Edgcumbe, to which allusion has been already so particularly made.
The Royal Naval Hospital
is situated in the north-east portion of the town. This important institution, for the reception of sick and wounded seamen and marines, was first opened in 1762. The government is intrusted to an officer holding the rank of post-captain, who also discharges the duty of resident-commissioner of the victualling-office, and re- sides at the hospital.
56 STOREHOUSE.
The hospital occupies a rising ground overlooking Stonehouse-creek, which forms its northern boundary. The area of the whole is about twenty-four acres, thirteen of which are occupied by a lawn, forming a delightful place of exercise for the convalescent patients. The entrance from the town is in Fore Street, where a subaltern's guard is constantly stationed. An avenue leads to the houses of the principal officers. Opposite these is the entrance to the hospital, with the commis- sioner's and other offices adjoining. The hospital consists of ten buildings, surrounding an extensive quadrangle, each containing six wards, calculated to receive sixteen patients ; but in cases of emergency that number can be extended to twenty. From this state- ment it will be seen, that as many as twelve hundred patients can be accommodated at one time. Every care has been taken to prevent the spreading of contagious diseases ; the several buildings having no other commu- nication than is afforded by a piazza, which surrounds three sides of the quadrangle, and affords a sheltered walk for exercise in unfavourable weather. Between the principal edifices are four pavilions ; one is used as a store-room, in another is the operating-room, and the small-pox ward adjoining. The remaining two are occupied by the cooking and victualling-rooms. The central building on the east contains the dispensary, and dispenser's apartments ; over these is the chapel. Divine service is performed every Sunday, when, besides the persons connected with the establishment, the chapel is resorted to by a portion of the inhabitants of the town. Besides the governor, there are, to ad- minister the duties of this noble establishment, two lieutenants, a physician, surgeon, agent, steward, dis- penser, four hospital mates, several extra ditto, a chaplain, &c.
The patients on being admitted are examined by the medical officer on duty, and if necessary, are washed and clothed in the hospital dress, their own clothes
stranger's guide. 57
being taken from them, cleaned, and deposited in the storehouse until they are discharged. Hot, cold, and shower-baths, furnished with every necessary accommo- dation, are kept in constant readiness. There are also a convenient washhouse, and drying ground ; and at the eastern extremity is the reservoir, from whence the whole establishment is supplied with water. Atalittle distance, in one of the " Five Fields," a small piece of land is enclosed for the purpose of sepulture.
The vast national importance of this institution may be gathered from the following authentic statement : — From the 1st January, 1800, to the 21st December, 1815, no fewer than 48,452 seamen and marines were received into the hospital, a very great proportion of whom returned to the service as effective men.
When the greatest philanthropist the world ever pro- duced visited this hospital, he expressed, in the warmest terms, his approbation of its various arrangements. The commendation of a man, who was not only the glory of his country, but the ornament of the age, well deserves to be recorded as the highest eulogium upon this institution ; and there is no room to believe that it has degenerated since the time of Howard. Foreigners view its excellent appointments and discipline with admiration, and candidly regard it as a noble monument of true national greatness.
SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY, &c.
Stonehouse was originally called Hippeston, the name of a mansion first inhabited by Joel de Stonehouse, in the time of Edward III. The original, or West Stonehouse, wasatCremill on the opposite shore, under Mount Edgeumbe, and D urn ford Street derives its name from the family through which the manor has descended, by marriage, to its present noble possessor the Earl of Mount Edgeumbe, who, by granting leases on liberal terms, has caused the town rapidly to increase. The leases are granted on lives, renewable for ever at a fixed fine, and subject to an annual conveniionary rent.
The only commerce carried on in this town, is the coal and timber trade ; the vessels thus employed discharging their cargoes at the quays in Stonehouse Pool, where the watermen who ply for hire also resort, and in the vicinity of which a commodious yard, for the building and repairing of vessels, has been a long time established.
Stonehouse was constituted a Township by the Reform Act, and exerts the elective franchise in connexion with the borough of Devonport. It is divided into two wards, east and west, by the line of Brownlow Street. The town is under the jurisdic- tion of a bench of magistrates, who sit every Tuesday at the Town Halt, a small building, but suitably arranged for I he dispatch of business, and situated in High Street adjoining the Workhouse, a plain edifice, erected in 1801. The paupers are under the management of a governor, visiting and other guardians, two overseers, clerk, surgeon, matron, &c. A prison is attached to the workhouse, for the confinement of vagrants or petty offenders, where they are detained until they can be removed by order of the magistrates.
The Market Place is a neat and convenient building, situated in Edgeumbe Street: two fairs are held annually in May and September, when the principal scene of bustle and gaiety is on the quay.
The Commfrcial Rooms, in Edgeumbe Street, are a branch of the united establishment already described in page 21 of our Plymouth article.
Reading Room, &:c. This establishment is in East Emma Place, where daily and weekly newspapers, the navy and army lists, &c. are taken in. The members chiefly consist of naval and military gentlemen, who are admitted by ballot.
SUPPLEMENT. 59
The Post Oifick is in Union Street, and the periods of airivai and departure are regulated by those of the Devonport and Plymouth post-offices.
The National School, in Market Street, is conducted on Mr. Bell's plan of education. The hoys are instructed in the usual elements of useful knowledge ; the girls are also taught to knit and sew, under the direction of ladies, who devoie a portion of their time to the management of this department of the school. The institution is supported by annual sub- scriptions.
The Benevolent Society was established for the relief of the sick and lying-in poor, and is supported by donations and subscriptions ; the funds are further augmented by the profits arising from the sale of ladies' fancy-work. This praiseworthy institution is under the patronage of Lady Emma _LMgcum.be.
The poor of Stonehou.se have also the advantage of a district visiting Society, lately established by the Rev. S. Howe, incumbent of the parish : a blanket society ; clothing ditto ; a Sunday school in connexion with the church, a YYesleyan Sunday school, and a Bethel school.
Adjoining the Victualling Yard is Mount Stone Almshouse for eight widows, lately established by Mrs. Bint, of Mount Stone House. The inmates are neatly clothed, and supplied weekly with coals, candles, and bread. They are members of the established church, and are furnished with bibles, prayer books, &c.
The Bridge. — Previously to the erection of Stonehouse Bridge, foot-passengers were conveyed across the creek in a boat, drawn from side to side by a cable. When the increasing- importance of Devonport caused the thoroughfare to become more frequented, a stone bridge, of one arch, was constructed by the proprietors of the adjoining lands, the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and Sir John St. Aubyn, bart. The revenue derived from the erection of this bridge is considerable, as even foot-passengers pay a toll of one halfpenny.
Higher up the creek is a second bridge of rough masonry, affording direct access from the northern part of Stonehouse to the populous villages of Stoke.
One of the most remarkable features in the history of Stone- house is its adherence to the cause of King Charles, when Plymouth held out victoriously against it.
The remains of several batteries erected in Elizabeth's time are still perceptible. Above one of them, which protected (in common with another on the opposite shore,) the entrance into Hamoaze, is a guardhouse, where the royal marine artillery practise the firing of heavy shot, their mark being a small flag
60 STOREHOUSE.
attached to a buoy in the Sound. On Stonehouse hill, over- looking Mill Bay from the north, is a modern fort, the site of which is leased by the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe to the Govern- ment, on the usual terms of the manor. The old manor office in Emma-place, is about to be supplanted by a new and substantial building, from designs by the author, to include offices for the stewards, and apartments for a resident clerk. Courts leet and baron are annually held by the stewards.
Stonehouse is supplied with water by the Devonport company, incorporated by act of parliament in 1799, with power to collect the waters of several springs on Dartmoor, and to bring the same in an open course to the towns of Devonport and Stone- house. The springs are not above fifteen miles distant, but the leat traverses a winding course of more than 37 miles. Considerable improvements have been lately effected by the construction of new reservoirs, and by laying down extensive lines of cast iron pipes, affording an abundant supply of water to the towns generally, and also to the several government establishments. The works are under the direction of J. M. Rendel, Esq. engineer to the company.
Mill Bay between the Peninsula of Stonehouse and the Continent of Plymouth, (if we may be so magnificently geographical) has quays only on the Plymouth side, Stonehouse Pool on the west side of the town being the harbour in com- mercial use. From Admiral's Hard, in the latter, boats may be hired. Here are several quays, ship -building yard, &c. and moorings for steam-boats and merchantmen.
'r^sar5.
D EI/o/Vpox r Cot O/w/v ,
a.-noC Mount Z'lotl ChucpeL .
BOROUGH OF DEVONPORT.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
After passing Stonehouse toll bridge, a steep ascent of about 1| furlongs conducts to a gate forming the S.E. entrance into Devonport ; nor can we but allude to the striking prospect seen from hence, including the Victual- ling Office, Mount Edgcumbe, Plymouth, and a con- siderable extent of country bounded on N.E. by the lofty waving outline of Dartmoor. There are two other entrances defended by draw-bridges, viz. one on the N.E. leading to Stoke, and another on the N. leading to New Passage and Morice Town. A fourth entrance into the town is immediately from the water at North Corner, which would be more strictly called North-west Corner ; and there is a fifth entrance from the mouth of Hamoaze at Mutton Cove. The fortifications had ad- vanced to their present state in 1816, when the works were suspended. The town, which was first fortified in the reign of George II. is defended on the water side by the battery of Mount Wise, on the south, in addition to those of St. Nicholas Island, Mount Edgcumbe, and Stonehouse.
The Principal Inns
are Elliofs Rpyal Hotel, near the Dock Yard gates, west end of Fore Street; Weakley' 's Hotel; Townshend's London Inn ; Franklin's George Inn, $c.
The Lodging Houses and Baths
of Mr. R. O. Backwell arc charmingly situated in Richmond Walk, by the wafer side, south of the town
62 DEVONPORT.
and afford every accommodation for resident families with every variety of baths.
Hackney Coaches
are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz. in Fore Street, Catherine Street, Morice Square, and George Street. Omnibuses are constantly plying to and fro, between the western extremity of Devonport, and the eastern ditto of Plymouth.
The Post Office
is on the east side of St. Aubyn Street. (See page 73.) For fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons, Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c. &c. {See Appendix.)
The Fore Street has been before-mentioned as the handsomest of the three towns, exhibiting a variety of excellent shops, and a general aspect of gaiety and respectability. At the western end is the Dock Yard gateway and chapel. The other leading thoroughfares are Catherine Street, Duke Street, and St. Aubyn Street ; the Market Place being near the junction of the two former. The market days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
The objects most worthy of notice in an architectural sense, are Ker Street, and the several buildings at its higher end. One side of the street presents a handsome Ionic range designed by Mr. Foulston, who was also architect of the Town Hall, Column, Mosque Chapel, and Egyptian Library. Of these, the Town Hall and Column will attract most earnest attention. The latter, as more particularly connected with the history of the town, shall be first mentioned.
The Column
was erected to commemorate the day when "Plymouth Dock " was superseded by the more distinguishing name
Mm.
.Efcv&bwwefJFbrZice
|
. |
||
|
I |
||
|
———-—{ |
||
|
s |
jffian; &{ TerZzce
rOTdTjTCO Of TJZ& Z>£V~0MPO&Z' TowzrJ&AZL
stranger's guide. 63
of " Devonport." To this end a petition was forwarded to George IV. in 1823, praying either that. such alteration should be made, or that such other name should be given as his Majesty might deem proper. The name desired was however graciously afforded ; and, on the 12th August, 1824, the foundation stone of the existing structure was laid. Cost of erection about £2800. This noble monument is of granite, fluted, and of Doric proportions : not quite six diameters high : measuring 65ft. 4ins. from the bottom of the shaft to the top of the capital ; and making, with its inferior and crowning pedestals, a total altitude of 101ft. 4ins. Its height above the street, including the rock on which it stands, is 124 feet: diameter of the shaft at the base 11 feet: ditto at the top 8ft. 6ins. : number of steps leading to the gallery 140. The extraordinary view from the gallery has been already alluded to in the Introductory Sketch (page 3,) and should on no account remain unseen by the visitor. A person is always in attendance to admit visitors, on payment of one shilling.
The Town Hall
is distinguished, not merely by a classic portico, but also in the fact of its not being (as such features mostly are) a mere transcript of classic example. The critical spectator will observe that it finishes with a horizontal blocking course, and that it is essentially Doric, though no triglyphs appear on its freize. The depth of the Pronabs, and the elevation of the entrance door upon a second internal landing, are peculiar features in this building, and greatly conduce to its boldness of effect. As a graphic memorandum of this arrangement a plan and elevation of the Portico have been sketched. The columns are 27ft. 6ins. high, and their lower diameters 5ft. 6ins. The hall is 75ft. long; 40ft. wide; and 31ft. high. Within the building are cells for prisoners, offices for parochial business, and apartments occupied by the Mechanics' Institute. This structure, (which, with the
d 2
64 DEVON PORT.
column, is certainly a substantial testimony to the taste and spirit of the inhabitants) was commenced in 1821, and completed (exceptingits internal fittings) for £2902.*
The Library,
conspicuous from its Egyptian front, was erected 1823, at an expense of about £1500. Mr. Rowe informs us that the celebrated Denon, on seeing Mr. Foulston's design for this facade, pronounced it the best attempt to appropriate Egyptian architecture to domestic pur- poses that had ever come under his notice. This building was erected for the purposes of the " Devonport and Stonehouse Classical and Mathematical Subscription School/' but was subsequently purchased for application to its present purpose.
The library, which is designated " Civil and Military ," was established 1827, by proprietary shares — about eighty in number — of twenty guineas each : a contribu- tion of that sum, with an annual subscription of two guineas, constituting a proprietor.
The building-comprises a news-room, committee-room, and spacious library, containing about four thousand volumes.
The Institution is managed by a president, 2 vice- presidents, a treasurer, secretary, and committee of 15 members, elected from the proprietors, at their annual general meeting in September.
A union was formed in 1830, with the Garrison library, upon which occasion the Institution adopted its present designation, and admitted, as members, all military officers belonging to the Garrison; retired
* The Column and Town Hall were executed by the late Mr. J. L. Kickard, whose protracted life might have proved surprisingly beneficial to the town. By no one (apart from his nearest relatives) is his loss more deplored than by the author, who had a large work proceeding under Mr. Rickard's masterly execution, when a fall from his horse at once deprived archi- tecture of a superior operator, and society of a valued man.
STRANGEll's GUIDE. 65
officers of the army, not permanently residing in the three towns or neighbourhood ; and the General, in command of the district, as an honorary member. ,
All proprietors — the General in command, the staff officers, and military members of the book committee, have the privilege of introducing strangers to the library, and news room : the following are the terms of sub- scription.
Per Annum,
Proprietors £3 3 0
Military members 3s. 6d. monthly, or . . 2 2 0
Subscribers to the library and news-room 3 3 0
Ditto to the library alone 2 2 0
Ditto to the news-room alone .... 1 1 0
The library possesses a comprehensive and valuable collection of Minerals, lately the property of Sir John St. Aubyn, which he most liberally presented to the Institution.
Mount Zion Chapel
exhibits an ingenious adaptation of Mahomedan archi- tecture to christian purposes. It was erected in 1 823 — 4, at a cost of about £2000. The spectator will, no doubt, remark upon the singular commixture of styles, as shewn in the proximity of the several buildings just described, and which seem as if they had here met in parliament, to prefer the respective claims of their Greek, Egyptian, and Oriental constituents. The assemblage, though strange, is certainly picturesque ; and, if we hesitate to recommend the repetition of such experiments, we are far from regretting, that in this instance they have been made.
St. Aubyn's Chapel,
distinguished by its stone spire, was erected by sub- scription in 1771, under an act of parliament.
Besides the regular service on Sunday, this chapel is also open for public worship on Wednesday and Friday.
d 3
66 DEV05P0RT.
St. John's Chapel
was erected by subscription, under an act of parliament, in 1 779, and is said to have cost the sum of £7700. The arrangement of the interior is curiously amphi- theatrical. The roof embraces a clear span of 70 feet, the length of the chapel being 90 feet. There are sittings for 1500 persons.
Among the monuments is a pleasing bas-relief by Lege, to the memory of the Rev. T. M. Hitchins, many years minister of the chapel. Here is also a good organ. Since the time of the first curate, Mr. Hitchins, who was nominated by the subscribers, the presentation has been vested in the rector of the parish, and the lord of the manor of Stoke Damerell. Divine service is performed thrice on Sunday; and there are also prayers and lectures on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
The Dock Yard Chapel,
erected by government in 1821, will be admired as a spacious and substantial structure, expensively fitted up, and furnished with a good organ. It is, of course, chiefly intended for the accommodation of the officers, civil, naval, and military, together with the operatives and soldiers belonging to the yard ; but it is also open to the public, and is in general fully attended.
The Dissenting Meeting Houses are as follows : — Mount Zion Calvin ist Chapel, in Ker Street, already described : Calvinist Chapels in Princess Street, Mount Street, and South Street: Baptist Chapels in Morice Square and Pembroke Street : Methodist Chapels in Morice and Column Streets : Moravian Chapel in James Street, and Unitarian Chapel in Granby Street.
It will be observed, that the north and east sides of Devonport are fortified with wall and fosse, the south side and the west ditto (which last is almost entirely occupied by the Dock Yard and Gunwharf ) being open to the water. The three land entrances have guard-
stranger's guide. 67
houses contiguous, those on the north and north-east having- gateways of massive masonry and draw-bridges. Immediately north of the Plymouth entrance are the offices and storehouses of the engineer department. The eastern side of the town is flanked by the several barracks for the artillery, engineers, cavalry, infantry, &c. On Mount Wise, which bounds the southern portion of the town, is
Government House,
delightfully situated on the Grand Parade, and com- manding a southern view of great beauty. The house contains every accommodation for carrying on the military government, and for the household of the governor. The front extends 200 feet. The brass cannon near the principal entrance was taken from the Turks in the engagement of the Dardanelles. North- west of the governor's is the
Port Admiral's House,
including offices for the transaction of naval business, courts martial being held on board the flag-ship in Hamoaze. At a short distance south-west on the top of the hill is the Semaphore, by which a constant com- munication is maintained between the office and the flag-ship, and which forms the first of a chain of tele- graphs communicating with the Admiralty in London. To illustrate the perfection of the telegraphic system, it will be sufficient to state, that a message has been sent to, and an answer received from London, in fifteen minutes ! The Parade, with its martial pomp and music, and Mount Wise, with its charming walks and prospects, form a great source of pleasure to the inhabitants ; nor must we omit to recommend to the visitor's notice,
Richmond Walk,
along the water's edge, at the foot of Mount Wise, formed by the late Duke of Richmond, when master-
68 DEVONPORT.
general of the ordnance, to remedy the discontent occa- sioned by his having built the boundary wall which surrounds the town immediately above the sea shore. This walk is approachable from the south-east or Plymouth gateway, and conducts to the bathing establishment already mentioned, (page 61) and to the King's stairs erected for the use of the navy and army in 1820, at the joint expense of the Admiralty and Ordnance boards. The baths are also approachable on foot from Mount Wise, and by a carriage way from Stonehouse bridge.
Boatmen ply for hire at North Corner, New Passage, and Mutton Cove. A particular account of the Steam- Boat Bridge, at New Passage, will be hereafter given. The ferry between Mutton Cove and Mount Edgcumbe is worked by two boats for foot passengers, and another for carriages and horses.
SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL INFORMATION.
Devonport is in the hundred of Roborough, parish of Stoke- Damerell, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter — 218 miles from London, (see Stoke article.) The entire manor, (including the town and villages of Stoke and Morice Town) formerly belonged to the Wise family ; was transferred by purchase to the family of Morice ; and is now, by inheri- tance, the property of the St. Aubyn family, with the exception of the estates t ord and Swilly, the glebe, and ground purchased by Government. The first lease of land purchased by Govern- ment was in 1718, and by an act of the sixth of George 111. the ordnance board was empowered to purchase other lands, which were granted on lease for 21 years, renewable every 7 years. Other additions were subsequently made to the Govern- ment lands. The steward of the manor holds court-leet and court-baron annually at Michaelmas, when a jury is sworn in to prevent nuisances, and the parish constables are also sworn. By the act of second William IV. Devonport was constituted a borough, with the privilege of returning two members to parliament, the right of voting extending to all ten pound householders within the entire parish of Stoke Damerell, and the township of Stonehouse Its first representatives, ( again elected in 1834,) were Sir E. Codrington and Sir George Grey. The town is governed by aboard of 150 commissioners, chiefly elected from among the inhabitants, vacancies being filled up once a year : among them are the lord and steward of the manor, the commissioner of the Dock Yard, the port-admiral, &e. The watching and lighting, paving and cleansing of the town, the management of the poor, and the granting of licences to porters, watermen, &c. are entrusted to them. The mayor, aldermen, and recorder of Plymouth and Saltash, and the manorial lords and stewards of Stonehouse, and East and West Anthony are also qualified to act on the licensing commission. A bench of resident magistrates hold petty sessions every Wednesday at the Town Hall.
The Water Company was established by act 33rd of George III. It had been previously attempted to obtain water from the Plymouth leat, which, however, was not acceded to by the corporation, under the idea that the stream might be insufficient for so large a supply. The Devonport leat was
70 DEVON PORT.
consequently formed, and may be occasionally seen in close companionship with that of Plymouth, as it follows its winding course of thirty-seven miles from its source on Dartmoor. The reseivoir is on the higher part of Stoke, near the block- house, and an abundant supply of water is thence afforded, by extensive lines of cast-iron pipes, to Devonport, Stonehouse, the Dock Yard, Gun wharf, and other government works. Great improvements have been lately made under the direction of Mr. Hendel, engineer.
The Workhouse is under the immediate management of a governor, permanent overseer, surgeon, matron, treasurer, school master and mistress, appointed by the commissioners. Besides the usual lodgings for the paupers, there is a convenient infirmary, and the governor and matron are resident within the walls. Schools are established for the instruction of the children of both sexes, the master and mistress receiving an annual salary from the parochial funds. The overseers ot the poor are elected annually. The permanent overstev has a salary. The weekly stipend allotted to the paupers is paid by the officers, with the assistance of some of the commissioners. Provisions for the consumption of the workhouse are supplied by contract.
In 1815 was established the Devonport and Suokehouse Public Dispensary, supported by voluntary subscription. An annual subscriber of one guinea is entitled to recommend four patients every year. The building is a neat stone-fronted structure, situated in Chapel Street. The affairs of the insti- tution are directed by a president, vice-president, treasurer, and secretary ; with separate committees for Devonport and Stonehouse.
The establishment of a Pauper Lunatic Asylum is highly honourable to the town. It is managed by a keeper and matron, subject to the governor of the workhouse, and a com- mittee of commissioners who meet every Tuesday. A surgeon attends daily. The charitable spirit of Devonport is also manifested in its Lying-in Charity, Female Benevolent ditto, Humane ditto, Dorcas ditto ; while the christ;an zeal of the town is testified in its several societies for the promotion of religious knowledge at home and abroad. Here are also several Benefit Societies, one of them supported by an unusual number of members, and having a large capital in the public funds.
The Public School for Poor Boys is conducted on the improved British system of education. The school-house adjoins St. John's chapel, and was erected by subscription in 1809. The affairs are directed by a president, vice-president,
BUPPLEMENT. 71
treasurer, secretary, and visitors ; and an annual meeting is held tor auditing the accounts and appointing- officers. The apartment for the master adjoins the school-room, and strangers are allowed to inspect the establishment daily.
The Public School, for the instruction of poor girls, was instituted on the first of March, 1799, when St. John's chapel was opened for public worship, and a subscription entered into to promote this institution. About 100 female children are educated in reading and working, and as a reward of industry, in writing. They are all clothed ; regularly attend divine worship ; and are instructed with the view of rendering them good servants and eligible inmates of families, The school- room is on the floor over the boys' school, where are also apartments for the mistress, and the occasional use of the ladies who superintend the charity. On Thursday mornings the school is open for public inspection. Its affairs are directed by a treasurer, secretary, and a committee of ladies and gentlemen. Both schools are supported by voluntary contri- bution. There is also a school belonging to the Baptist dissenters, supported by subscription, and a Methodist Sunday School, opened on Sunday, February 3rd, 1822. There are also other Sunday schools, where a vast number of children are instructed in reading, and the principles of religion, on the plan usually adopted by the benevolent individuals who devote their attention to those desirable objects.
Devonport United Mathematical and Commercial School is a neat quadrangular structure, on the northern side of the Town Hall, erected principally by the artisans of H.M. Yard at this port, who in 1829 united themselves into a com- pany for the establishment of this admirable institution. There are 352 subscribers, each having the right to nominate two children. The building comprises two rooms, measuring 63ft. by 36ft. the lower being appropriated to the boys the upper to the girls. The management of the institution is vested in twenty -one trustees, and a committee of twenty-one, the latter being changed half-yearly. The education is based on the Borough-Road system, with certain modifications. The head- master is assisted by 2nd and 3rd masters. The female department is under the superintendence of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd governesses. The boys are educated in reading, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, geography, use of the globes, grammar, &c. at different rates, from 2d. to 6|d. per week. The females are educated in grammar, geography, use of the globes, history, writing, ciphering, plain and fancy needle- work, knitting, netting, &.c. at the rates of from 2d. to 5^d. per week. Between 300 and 400 boys, and about 200 girls are educated in this establishment.
72 DEVONPORT.
The Devonport Classical and Mathematical School, at the head of Princess Street, was opened in August 1821, and is supported by subscriptions of Proprietors. The selection of the most eminent masters, and the judicious arrangements throughout, cannot fail to ensure a continuance of that success which has already exceeded the expectations of its founders. The establishment is for 103 pupils. The Madras system of education being rigidly adheied to. The school is managed by a president, 3 vice-presidents, a treasurer, secretary, regis- trar, librarian, building surveyor, head master, 2nd and 3rd masters, a French master and assistant, writing and drawing masters. The officers, and a committee of 12 proprietors, are annually elected.
The Royal Naval Annuitant Society, in Ker-Street, was established on the 9th of April, 1823, under the patronage of His present Majesty, for the purpose of securing annuities to the families of deceased naval officers — numbers unlimited. Its success has been unparalleled. It has a capital of £90,000 vested under the provisions of the 10 Geo. 4. c. 56, and a handsome building was erected in 1832, by a subscription of only 4s. per share, where the society holds its meetings. Besides the patron, there are a vice-patron and actuary, presidents and vice-presidents, selected from distinguished admirals, generals, captains, and colonels of the navy and marines, trustees, treasurers, secretaries, and stewards, and a managing committee of fifty, elected from the members at large,
The Banking Houses are as follows : — Devonport Bank (established 1807), in Fore-Street — Hodge and Norman, General Bank (established 1813), in Fore-Street — T. and H. J. Husband.
The Union Savings Bank (established 1818), is situated in Chapel Street, trie present building having been erected 1829. The affairs of the institution are under the direction of a patron, president, a body of trustees, and a committee of not less than 21 managers. The officers consist of a treasurer, secretary, and actuary. A meeting of the managing committee is held quarterly, and a statement of the accounts, funds, &c. is published annually, pursuant to a general meeting of the trustees and managers. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- days, the office is open for public business. The advantages of the institution extend beyond these towns, by means of local receivers of deposits. The amount of deposits received from individuals, friendly societies, and charitable institutions ; the rate of interest allowed ; and the investment of the funds in the Bank of England, on Government security, fyc, are all
SUPPLEMENT. 73
in conformity to the provisions of the Acts of Parliament for the regulation of these institutions.
Three Newspapers are published weekly, viz.— The Devonport Telegraph and Plymouth Chronicle, on Saturday morning, published by G. J. Soper and W. Richards, 70, St. Aubyn-Street. The Devonport Independent and Plymouth and Stonehouse Gazette, on Saturday morning, by W. Byers, 32, Fore- Street. The West Devon Standard, on Wednesday, by G. W. Hearle, 111, Fore-Street.
The Devonport Mechanics' Institution was established in 1825, when a fitting, inaugural discourse was delivered by the late George Harvey, Esq. of Plymouth. Its affairs are managed by a president, 4 vice-presidents, secretary, treasurer and librarian, elected annually ; and a committee of 24 (two- thirds of whom are chosen from the operatives,) elected half- yearly. The body of the society includes members for life, honorary members, senior and junior members (the latter being under 21 years of age), amounting at present to 110 members, the senior class paying 3s. 3d. and the junior 2s. 2d. per quarter. Lectures are delivered on Monday evenings during the winter months. There are classes for the study of French, drawing, and chemistry . The library consists of about 2800 volumes, viz. 1400 on science ; 300 literature; 500 his- tory ; 400 travels ; 176 periodicals.
POST OFFICE.
MAILS. ARRIVE. DEPART.
London 7. 30 p.m. 6. 45 a.m.
Bath 10. 45 p.m. 5. 0 a.m.
Cornish and North Devon, > 6# ^ 6# ^
via Calhngton >
Falmouth via Torpoint 4. 30 p.m. 7. 0 a.m.
penny-post messengers.
Stoke delivers twice a >8# Q- 8. 5 p.m.
day S
Torpoint 7. 0 a.m.
Cawsand & Milbrook 8. 0 a.m. Plymouth,dispatched? 6# 45 A#M# n 0 A#M# & 5# 45 p#M#
3 times )
Plymouth received ... 6. 45 a.m. 3. 0 p.m. & 7. 30 p.m.
e
DEVOKFORT.
The Dock Yard.
This public establishment, in a local sense alone, is a place of great importance ; the extent, wealth and popu- lation of the neighbourhood, being greatly dependent on it.
It gives employment to upwards of 4000 persons in time of war, and to not less than 1500 during peace. The money paid weekly, in wages alone, cannot fall short of £5000 in war, and £1500 in peace. We believe we are within bounds in saying, that even in a period of profound tranquillity, at least seven thousand persons are wholly maintained by the dock-yard.
But, however interesting these local considerations may be, reflections of a higher character suggest them- selves to most who visit a royal dock-yard. Englishmen are accustomed to look upon the navy as the main prop of British power ; and they regard our naval arsenals with associations which far surpass mere idle curiosity.
Plymouth dock-yard was established during the reign of William and Mary (1691,) and is therefore of sub- sequent date to all other royal dock-yards, excepting that at Pembroke, which is of very recent formation, (1810). The first Government yards were founded at Deptford, Woolwich, and Portsmouth, by Henry VIII. in 1513 ; the next was at Chatham, in Queen Elizabeth's time, 1558 ; and then Sheerness, in the reign of Charles II. 1660. Thus it appears, that notwithstanding the advantages to this country, of possessing a dock-yard in so desirable a situation as Plymouth, it is only since 1691 that this valuable arsenal has been instituted.
Among the first considerations in determining the position of a dock-yard, it will naturally be asked whether there is a good harbour and sufficient depth of water for our largest men-of-war. In these respects, Plymouth is particularly adapted to the wants of a naval
SUPPLEMENT. (J
port. In IIamoaze, on the eastside of which Plymouth dock-yard is situated, 150 sail of the line may moor in safety ; and such is the depth of water, that the largest ship in the navy may come into harbour at any time of tide, with all her stores and guns on board, which is not the case at any other dock-yard in the kingdom. There is also a rise and fall of tide (amounting to about 1 9 feet on the average spring tides), which is of great service in docking and undocking ships. These natural advantages, combined with the geographical position of the port, in relation to foreign powers, attach immense importance to the Plymouth yard.
It has already been remarked that the dock-yard is situate on the east side of Hamoaze. Its extent is 75 acres, 36 poles, of which, a small part only is the pro- perty of the crown; 65 acres, 2 roods, 23 poles, being held of Sir John St. Aubyn, on a lease of 21 years, subject to an annual rent of 30s. per acre, and a fine of £534. 4s. 6d. (or three years' value), on each renewal, which must be made every seven years, under a penalty of an entire forfeiture of the lease. The first lease granted by Sir William Maurice, in the year, 1 728, was for 40 acres only ; the remaining part was enclosed in 1768.
On entering the yard there is an official residence occupied by the director of police, a police force having been formed as a civil guard to the dock-yard, in May 1834. The police force consists of 1 director, 3 inspec- tors, 3 sergeants, and 40 constables. An inspector, a sergeant, and 2 policemen, are always stationed at the gate, by whom every attention is paid to visitors.
Application must be made in writing to the Captain Superintendent for permission to see the yard, which is never denied, except to foreigners, who cannot be allowed admission without an express order from the Admiralty.
Permission having been obtained, strangers are re- quired to insert their names, residences, and professions, in a book kept for that purpose. e 2
76 DEVONPORT.
The first objects on entering the yard, are the chapel on the right hand, contiguous to the residence of the director of police, and the bell-post on the left.
The chapel is a handsome, substantial building, of hewn stone, with a tower and set of bells. It is 100 feet long, and 75 feet broad, and the extreme height of the tower 86 feet. The foundation was laid in 1814, and it was first opened for Divine service in November, 1817. The interior is commodiously and elegantly fitted up for the officers and people belonging to the yard; also for the accommodation of the navy, in com- mission and in ordinary, as well as for the military in the garrison.
The chapel was built at the expense of government, and is said to have cost £24,000. It occupies the site of the old chapel, built in the year 1700, under the interesting circumstances narrated in the following inscription which was over its southern entrance, and deserves to be recorded :—
IN THE ELEVENTH YEAR
OF THE REIGN OF KING WILLIAM THE THIRD
ANNO DOMINI 1700
THE CHAPEL WAS FOUNDED AND BUILT
BY THE
GENEROUS AND PIOUS CONTRIBUTIONS OF OFFICERS
AND SEAMEN BELONGING
TO A SQUADRON OF MEN-OF-WAR PAID OFF IN THIS YARD
(AFTER TEN YEARS EXPENSIVE WAR WITH FRANCE)
BEING PROPAGATED AND CARRIED ON
BY THE INDUSTRY
AND RELIGIOUS ENDEAVOURS OF
GEORGE ST. LEO, ESQ.
COMMISSIONER OF THE SAID YARD AND COMPTROLLER
OF THE NAYV.
In front of the police-director's residence is the bell, which announces the hours of commencing and termi- nating the periods of labour during the day, and strikes the quarters during the night, commencing after the hours of labour. This bell was taken from the Tonnant, an 84 gun-ship, captured at the battle of the Nile. It
SUPPLEMENT. 77
is said that this bell had been previously stolen from the famed church of St. John, in the island of Malta. The post upon which the bell stands is 60 feet high ; and of teak wood.*
Between the police-director's house and the chapel is a small door leading into the master-shipwright's garden, where there is a large reservoir, to supply the dock-yard with water for ordinary purposes, and in case of fire. The reservoir (built in 1812), is elliptical, 70 feet long, 60 feet broad, and 8 feet deep. Water was first brought into the yard in 1 797, but was not conveyed over the yard before 1812. As a precaution against fire, a most methodical arrangement has been made, which assigns to every individual belonging to the dock-yard his particular post and duty.
In going down the yard the stranger will first pass along an avenue of trees, planted in 1816, on the left- hand side of which is a plot of ground tastefully laid out.
To the right, on the north side of the main road, is the military guard-house, over which is the navy pay- office. Near the end of the path, on the left hand, is the surgery, where the workmen hurt in the perform- ance of their labours have the benefit of professional assistance ; and should they be prevented attending duty in consequence of injuries received, the surgeon, or assistant-surgeon, visits them at their homes, while they are humanely allowed a portion of their wages, until they are either recovered or placed on the superannu- ation list.
The surgery communicates with the surgeon's resi- dence, which is in the row of houses appropriated to the principal affairs of the dock-yard.
* The bell-post is a single stick of teak, once formipg the main-mast of an Indiaman.
e 3
78
DEVONPORT.
The following .are the residences of the officers, beginning at the north end of the terrace : —
Surgeon Cashier
Builder's Assistant Store Receiver Master Attendant Master Shipwright Capt. Superintendent (centre)
Storekeeper Assistant Surgeon Captain Superintendent's
Chief Clerks A ssistant to Master Attend ant Builder's Assistant Boatswain in the Yard
The terrace has a paved promenade in front, shaded by trees. It is flanked by two wings ; one end of the south wing being used as the office of the Captain Super- intendent, the end of the other employed as a model- room, in connnexion with the London United Service Museum,
The works of the yard are not visible from this spot, and every thing seems as tranquil as if little or nothing were going on ; and yet a dock-yard is a little busy world of manufactures, upon the skilful co-operation of which, the efficiency of the British marine depends. Here we see the noble art of ship-building in all its stages, the making of anchors, manufacturing of cables, construction of masts and yards, the making of sails, rigging of ships, building of boats, and making of pumps, capstans, &c. &c. All these branches are proceeding with admirable system, in exact proportion to the exigencies of the service, and to an extent dependent on the magnitude of the establishment.
Plymouth yard has five slips for the purposes of building ; three single docks, and one double ditto, for carrying on repairs ; and spacious storehouses, with efficient workshops, for the purposes of equipment, &c. We wish the reader to understand the general capa- bilities of the department, that he may attach due importance to its details, brought under his notice in walking round it. From the end of the terrace, in front of the officer's residences, are two roads, one on the left, leading towards the central part of the yard, and one
SUPPLEMENT. 79
(a little to the right) by a flight of steps, to the north end of the yard. The latter is the preferable path, as it takes a direction which renders it unnecessary to walk over much of the same ground twice.
Descending this flight of steps, the stranger finds himself at the north end of the dock-yard, which is almost wholly set apart to the service of ships in dock. If he turn to the right, at the bottom of the steps, he will pass a new steam-engine house in progress of building, when we went to press. We understood there were to be two engines of 20-horse power each, one for pumping the docks, the receding of the tide not being sufficient to leave them dry when ships are grounded upon the blocks ; and the other engine for driving a turning lathe, circular saws, grinding-stones, trenail and screw-cutting machines, till-hammer in the adjoining smithery, and for drawing timber up the inclined plane adjoining.
In front of the engine-house are two kilns for boiling timber, a process commonly employed to render the plank supple, so that it may be made to coincide with the curved form of the body of a ship.
A little beyond the engine-house is the North Smithery, and at a short distance is the north boundary wall of the yard, against which, from the bottom of the brow to the water's edge, are the locksmiths' and plumbers' shops ; also the stonemasons' yard, carvers' shop, and a sale-room where old stores are sold by Dutch auction.
The docks will be best seen by walking round the jetties. It has been already remarked that there are three single docks, and a double dock. The first is called the " North New Dock,'7 constructed in an excavation of solid rock. Water was first let in in 1 789 ; His Majesty George III. was present. The following are the dimensions of the dock : —
Feet Jne. Length from the gate to the top of the slope. • 254 9
Ditto bottom 214 8
Breadth at the piers 56 7
Ditto in the clear at the gates...... «., 56 4
80 DEVONPORT.
Feet Ins.
Breadth in the extreme . 97 0
Depth 27 8
Declivity 1 11
Bottom of the dock below low water mark . . 2 0
Depth of water in it at ordinary spring tides 19 6
Ditto extraordinary ditto 22 6
The second is the " Union Dock," the next the "Double Dock," and lastly, the "South Dock," the entrance to which is from a basin 190 feet by 250 feet, occupied by boats employed on services afloat. The channel into the basin is 50 feet wide, situate between two jetties. At these, as at every other jetty, there is sufficient depth of water, at low tide, for the largest ship of war.
In passing from the " Union" to the " Double Dock," there is a landing place called " North Stairs," for the accommodation of the Captain Superintendent of the Yard, and commissioned officers. Here is also a small waiting room, for the convenience of officers who are liable to be occasionally detained there. The north dock is the only one open, all the others are covered with enormous roofs, to protect the ships from the weather, and to shelter the workmen employed upon them.
Having passed the South Dock on the left hand, leaving the basin on the right, a splendid quadrangular series of storehouses present themselves. They stand on a piece of ground measuring 480 feet from east to west, 300 feet from north to south, and are three stories high. On the northern side are the entrances to the " rigging house" and a sail loft" and the store for "fitted rigging and blocks." The appropriation of every department is legibly written over each door. The storehouses bear distinguishing numbers, and are en- tirely under the charge of a storekeeper ; but the other parts of the building are under the superintendence of distinct officers.
SUPPLEMENT. 81
The visitor had better take a general survey of the yard before he goes into the storehouses. On the eastern side of the quadrangle is another entrance to the store for "fitted rigging and blocks," also a storehouse for " boatswains' " " carpenters' " and " gunners' stores." There are likewise on this side of the building, an entrance to a court containing "iron ballast, and coal for steam-vessels" and an entrance to a " lot yard, and junk sheds." In front of the gateway to the lot yard is a weigh bridge, used to determine the weight of heavy articles from one to ten tons. The spacious jetty between the storehouses and the water side is occupied by the anchor-wharf, excepting the south part, where there is a "graving slip" used for vessels requiring only such casual work as may be performed in the interval between two tides. Some idea may be formed of the demand for anchors for the navy, when it is stated that a first rate is supplied with eight anchors, namely, five, each weighing 95 cwt. one of 21 cwt. one of 10 cwt, and one of 5 cwt.
On the south side of the quadrangle are the entrances to two other stores; one for " cordage and ships returned stores" the other for " cables, worn rope, lead, and miscellaneous stores" and lastly, on the eastern side of the quadrangle, is the "present use store for the yard services."
On the road-way, which passes north and soutli through the centre of the quadrangle, is a storehouse set apart for sets of sails, appropriated to different classes of ships. This building has one story more than those by which it is surrounded, although the extreme height is the same. Every part is composed of iron and stone ; the girders, joists, doors, sashes and frames, are of cast iron, executed in a style of peculiar neatness. The roof, also of cast iron, is worthy of notice, from the lightness of its construction. The floors are of Yorkshire stone, and the geometrical staircase of moor-stone, projecting 6 feet clear from the wall, is much to be admired. The
82 DEV0NP0HT.
hand-rail is 1 70 feet in length, and so neatly manufactured as not to exhibit any trace whatever of a joint. The expense of this storehouse has been estimated at £l 5,000.
The communication between the storehouses is pre- served by neat stone bridges, with balconies, which cross the road at each end. Immediately in front of the entrance to the depository for " cordage and ships9 returned stoics" is a wooden swing bridge, crossing a canal, nearly sixty feet wide, and 820 feet long, at the end of which are the boat-house pond, (about 80 feet wide, and 360 feet long), slips, and sheds. On the south side of the canal is the " New Ground" principally devoted to the building department; and it is here that the five building slips are situated. There are three within a very few yards of each other, each suited to the building of a first-rate ; and all of them are roofed. The lower part of a wooden building, near the canal entrance, is kept for a chain-cable store. Chain cables are not manufactured by Government, but supplied by contract. They are officially received at Woolwich dock-yard, where their strength is tested by a machine.
Pursuing a direct line from the swing bridge, we pass three building slips on the right hand, covered with immense roofs. Housing No. 1, is 263 feet long, 126 feet broad, and 67 feet high; there are 10,245 panes of glass in it ; and the estimated value of the whole is £13,000. There are here also two supplying kilns in front of the slips for boiling plank. Behind the kilns are the saw pits.
We now recommend the stranger to continue his route in front of the building slips, until he arrives at the mast- house, which stands upon a slope, descending into a large basin 230 yards long (of irregular breadth), com- municating with the harbour, for the purpose of floating masts and yards between this department and ships afloat. In walking through the mast-house it will be seen that there is another slope and basin, on the eastern side. The masts and yards launched into this basin,
SUPPLEMENT. 83
arc, for the most pent, those not wanted for immediate service. These spais are kept wholly under water, it having been found from experience that immersion is favourable to their preservation. The inner pond is about 200 yards long, and 63 yards broad.
The scientific enquirer and lover of mechanics, may here find much to speculate upon and delight in. The various kinds of foreign fir timber vary greatly in value, strength, durability, and dimensions ; and the modes of p reservation, before they are applied to the purposes of mast-making, are questions of the first importance. A complete set of masts and yards for a first-rate, has been estimated at not less than £4,000. Again, the principles of proportioning the forms of spars to their respective lengths, and of combining the several lengths together, so as to form a whole, are considerations of great moment. A little beyond the mast-house, are two more building slips, which complete the total number (five) in this dock-yard. We are now at the southern boundary wall, contiguous to a part of Devonport, known by the name " Mutton Cove." The visitor will be repaid for the trouble of walking to the water side, where he will find a small terrace, kept in very neat order, and much frequented, as a quiet retreat, by the families residing in the yard. There is a delightful view from this spot, of the Sound, Mount Edgcumbe, the Royal William Victualling-Yard, Mount Wise, and the Harbour.
On leaving this terrace, we return towards the head of the last building slip, whence a rocky mount, covered with plants and vegetation, attracts notice. Strangers, accompanied by a policeman, are indulgently permitted to ascend to the top, where there is a small gold and. silver fish pond, a fountain, and summer-house. This place is called " King's Hill," from the circumstance of George III. having once visited that spot during the excavating (or levelling) of the yard ; when he was heard to lament the possible removal of a spot com- manding so fine a prospect of the harbour and neigh- bourhood.
84 DEVONPORT.
Near King's Hill, in a north-east direction, are the rope-houses. The buildings are 1,200 feet long, built of stone and iron, to render them fire-proof, the former ropery having been destroyed by fire.
Near the ropery is the boat-house, where boats are being built and repaired, and where they are stored to meet the demands of the service.*
At the end of the boat-house slip is a stone bridge over the canal, with the south smithery, capstan house, and mould loft, near at hand.
The smithery is worth visiting if heavy work happen to be going forward, such as manufacturing a large anchor. The largest size anchors weigh about 96 cwt. and it will take 20 men 36 days, working 10 hours a day, to make an anchor of that size. It is a curious sight to strangers to see the operation of what is called the* Hercules, which is a weight of 8 cwt. made to descend with a force supposed to be equivalent to a blow of nearly 8 tons. There is a great deal of heavy work required for ship service, as may be easily supposed, when it is stated that the iron knees alone of one of our first-rates (Hibemia's), are said to have weighed 59 ton 8 cwt. !
The capstan house is a work-shed in which capstans, windlasses, and tops, are made, and chain-pump gear fitted. There are single and double capstans ; the former for small vessels, the latter for ships from the size of a frigate, upwards. A double capstan, made in the simplest manner, for a first-rate, is worth about £100. The mould loft is not accessible without express permission. It is set apart for preparing the moulds, and furnishing such information for the " timber-con- verter/7 as will enable him to provide every piece of
* Some years ago, Mr. Johns, one of the foremen of the yard, introduced a new principle of boat-building, making the bottoms of two thicknesses of planking, instead of constructing them with timbers and planking. The planks take a diagonal direction, both externally and internally, those on the outside being placed in contrary direction to those which form the inside lining.
SUPPLEMENT. 85
timber used for a ship, according to the required form and dimensions — one of the most difficult and important duties connected with practical ship-building. The drawings of ships ordered to be built are furnished to the officer superintending the " New Works." The designs are usually drawn upon a scale of J of an inch to a foot, which is 1-48 part of the actual size of the ship. It is necessary, therefore, to transfer the lines of the drawings upon a floor, in order to make moulds which will correspond with the actual form and dimensions of the ship which is to be built. In viewing the mould loft, little more is to be seen than a spacious floor, covered with curved lines, which intersect each other in various directions ; and to any but a technical eye, presenting an appearance of great confusion.
Opposite the entrance to the mould loft, are sheds stored with timber, laid apart for seasoning. From the roadway, between the mould loft -and timber sheds, may be seen, in a southern direction, the stone bridge, which crosses the mast-house back shop. In the opposite direction is the other stone bridge which we crossed on leaving the boat house.
Should the stranger contemplate visiting the store- houses, rigging loft, &c. he must retrace his path over this latter bridge, and turn to the left as soon as he gets to the north side of the canal.
The storehouses are all numbered : —
No. 1 — on the eastern side of the quadrangle, is set apart as a "present use store for yard service.7' The different stores used in building and repairing ships, (most of which are supplied by contract) are here arranged in admirable order, and dealt out to the work- men on their producing demand — notes signed by the proper officers.
No. 2 — storehouse is for " cables, worn rope, lead, and miscellaneous articles."
No. 3 — for " cordage and ships' returned stores" is generally a busy scene, as ships are continually returning
F
86 DEV0NP0RT.
some description of stores, none of which can be received by the storekeeper without being previously surveyed by a professional officer, in order to ascertain whether they are decayed, repairable, or serviceable.
No. 4 — is for the issue of "carpenters ', boatswains', and gunners' stores/7 in fact, it is a present size store for the fleet.
No. 5 — is for sails, and for "feted rigging and blocks."
No. 6 — is inclusively for "feted rigging."
In the sail loft at the west end of the north side of the quadrangle are sails of every description, (made in the dock-yard) from the smallest boat-sail to the largest for a man-of-war. Colours and signal flags of all kinds are likewise made in the dock-yard; but neither the canvass (for sails), nor the buntin (for colours), is of government manufacture. Both are supplied by contract. Canvass, articles of ironmongery in general, bar iron, iron bolt-staves, paper, oil, pitch, tar, glue, &c. &c. are supplied by contract.
Blocks, copper and mixed metal articles, are manu- factured at Portsmouth, and sent to this yard.
In the rigging loft, at the east end of the north side of the quadrangle, rigging for the various classes of ships is cut to its proper length and prepared to meet the demands of the service. The cordage made use of is supplied from the dock-yard ropery.
On leaving the storehouses, we may take the route along the south side of the south dock, adjoining the basin. A flight of steps will be seen from the head of this dock, and just above them the house occupied by the Captain Superintendent. The buildings to the north of the steps are the house carpenters and joiners7 shops, hand-pump and block shops, turnery and " loan tool store." The building, on the south side of the steps, includes the public offices, noticed before we descended the steep flight of steps which led us, on first coming into the yard, to the docking district. At the top of these steps is a road of gentle declivity, leading towards the £atet
SUPPLEMENT. 87
The Gun- Wharf
is an important department of the naval establishment, situated on the margin of Hamoaze, north of the Dock Yard, from which it is divided by the street leading to North Corner landing place. The area of ground with- in the walls is nearly five acres, held by government on a tenure similar to that of the Dock Yard. This depot was formed above a century since, and the buildings which were planned by Sir John Vanburg,* who was attached to the ordnance department, are constructed in the substantial style which distinguished the works of that artist. The entrance from the town is in Ordnance Street, from which an avenue of trees is continued to the front of the officer's houses. Opposite to those is the capacious reservoir, from which the establishment is supplied with water, and immediately adjoining a flight of steps leads to the armoury, and other buildings in the lower part. These steps and a large portion of the site of the gun- wharf, are hewn out of schistos rock, which in some places is excavated to the depth of thirty feet. The storehouses, which contain the armoury, are lofty buildings, filled with various instruments of destruction ; vast quantities of muskets, pistols, and cutlasses, are deposited in chests, or arranged in racks, and along the walls, in the form of stars, circles, and crescents. Near these storehouses is the blacksmith's shop and other buildings, used as deposi- tories for gun-carriages and the implements of the field-
* Who is not acquainted with the humourous distich written as an epitaph on Vanburgh 1
1 Lie heavy on him earth, for he Laid many a heavy load on thee 1"
F 2
88 DEVONPORT,
train. The intervals between the different edifices are occupied by piles of ordnance, belonging to the ships in Hamoaze harbour, with their respective names painted on the cannon. There are also large quantities of shot, arrayed in pyramidical heaps, marked with the number contained in each pile. The immense quantity of stores seen here, together with the armoury, form a sight worthy attention. Like the Dock-Yard, the Gun-Wharf is inclosed by a high wall. Persons desirous of viewing it must make application to the storekeeper.
89
STOKE.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
Leaving Devonport, by its north eastern gate, the stranger may proceed Plymouth-ward to Stoke Church and the Military Hospital, on the bank of Stonehouse creek ; he may pass up the ascending meadow on his left to Tajnar Terrace, a respectable row of houses, commanding a superb view of Hamoaze and England's " wooden walls :" or he may take a mid-way course into the body of Stoke village.
The inclosed Ionic range, on the high ground facing the south is Cornwall 'Terrace : the descending line of detached residences below, is known as the Albemarle Villas.
Taking a northerly direction we pass along Trafalgar- row, and shortly arrive at Upper Stoke, through which proceeds the turnpike-road to Tavistock.
In approaching Higher Stoke,
Belmont House,
the residence of John Norman, Esq. will arrest the stranger's attention. Its Doric tetrastyle, and lateral portico in ant is, give external dignity ; while an interior of corresponding classicality receives additional richness from a choice collection of pictures. The house is from the designs of Mr. Foulston, who was the architect also of another select example of domestic architecture in the neighbourhood, viz. Travers House, builtfor R. Bromley, Esq. The usual nursery toy of Cockney origin, deno- minated a " Villa/' is brought into wholesome ridicule by the two residences just alluded to, which really are " Villas," in a sense that Meca?nas himself would have admitted. The eastern part of this extensive suburb is also distinguished by the architectural pretensions of numerous residences, lately built, or now erecting. At the back of Higher Stoke is the f 3
90 STOKE.
Block House,
of which note was taken in the introductory survey.—- It is important as a redoubt, defended by fosse and drawbridge, equally calculated for defence and annoy- ance, and valuable as a land mark to ships entering the Sound. But its chief recommendation to the lover of the picturesque is the perfect and extensive panorama of which it forms the centre. The circular reservoir at a short distance east, is that of the Devonport Water Company, supplied by a stream whicli traverses a winding course of 37 miles, from the springs on Dart- moor, and supplying, by means of iron pipes, the towns of Devonport and Stonehouse, together with the Dock- Yard, Gun wharf, and other government establishments.
Stoke Church.
Regarding Stoke Church, as the Cathedral Metro- politan of Stoke Damerel; having in its diocese an important borough, two great villages, several sub- chapels episcopal, and a population of 40,000, the stranger may be excused for giving that wonder to the meanness of this building that he has previously bestowed upon the splendours of Canterbury and York !
The living is a Rectory in the archdeaconry of Totnes, diocese of Exeter, and in the patronage of Sir John St. Aubyn, who inherits the manor from Sir William Morice, to whom the advowson of the rectory was granted by Charles II.
The burying-ground, though very extensive, has not been found adequate to the mortality of the increased population of the parish ; in consequence of which, a piece of ground adjoining the old church-yard has been enclosed and consecrated as a cemetery.
Close to the church is the
Military Hospital,
erected 1797, on the northern side of Stonehouse creek, immediately opposite the Royal Naval Hospital. The
stranger's guide. 91
situation is salubrious and airy, declining with a gentle slope to the water's edge. The buildings and ground attached are surrounded by a lofty wall, through which there is a land entrance on the north. There are also a commodious landing-place and receiving-house, on the creek. The south front of the edifice (which is built of grey marble,) is imposing from its arcade of forty-one arches which support a terrace in front of the upper windows, and afford shelter to the promenade below. The wards are spacious, lofty, and well ven- tilated ; and the greatest precautions have been taken to render the establishment complete in every respect. 500 patients have been accommodated at one time.
92
STOKE.
SU PPLEMENT.
Dissenting Chapels :— Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, Tavistock Street ; Providence Chapel, (Independents) Home- Park Buildings.
Stoke Public School for Poor Boys, established about 14 years since by voluntary subscription, for educating 100 Boys.
This establishment is greatly indebted to the zeal and liberality of the late Colonel Littlejohn, who gave a donation of £150, for the purpose of building a new School House capable of containing the same number of girls in addition. Here is a Provident Society, the great object of which is to promote economy among the Poor, who are encouraged to make weekly deposits for their own relief, either towards rent or clothing, which is laid out for them in the winter months. — A portion of the free subscriptions is appointed to the supply of clothing to the aged and infirm, whose circumstances will not admit of their subscribing.
03
MORICE TOWN. STRANGER'S GUIDE.
Leaving Devonport by its north gate, or descending westward from Stoke towards Hamoaze, we find our- selves in the third division of Stoke Damerel parish, called Morice Town, or New Passage, the latter name being derived from the comparatively recent establish- ment of the ferry across Hamoaze to Torpoint on the Cornish shore opposite. The town includes several regular streets of small houses, and two or three dissenting chapels ; but contains nothing worthy the stranger's notice unless it be a remarkably fine Slate Quarry, and one or two neat cottage residences in the vicinity. Here are several wharfs, warehouses, coal- yards, lime kilns, &c. and extensive brewing establish- ments, one of them entitled the Artillery Brewery, and belonging to Messrs. Williams and Co. of London.
The Powder Magazine,
at Keyham Point, a short distance north of Morice Town, was erected in 1784, and is, of course, provided with every possible guard against lire and lightning.
The buildings cover a space of about 5 acres. There are houses for the officers belonging to the establishment, and a neat row of cottages appropriated to the use of the foreman and senior workmen. During the last war these magazines were found inadequate to the wants of the service, and 5 line of battle ships were fitted as floating magazines. II. M. ships which rendezvous or touch at the port receive their ammunition from this depot, as do the king's land forces ; together with the several yeomanry corps stationed in the four western
94 MORICE TOWN.
counties ; also the coast guard stations from Dorsetshire to the Land's end, and in many parts of Wales. Since the abolition of the Laboratory on Mount Wise, the whole of the flannel cartridges issued to his majesty's ships have been filled and prepared at these magazines. The Royal Powder Works at St. Budeaux, situate about 1 \ miles further up Hamoaze, on the same side, are connected with this establishment, and receive all damaged powder from it for the purpose of being restored and made serviceable, when it is again returned to Keyham Point for issue to his majesty's ships. The extreme westerly position of these magazines renders them of great importance.
95
TOR POINT BRIDGE.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
Cuunttes, like players, "have their exits and their entrances ;" and Morice Town on the one side of Ilamoaze, and Torpoint on the other, are the beginning or the end of Devon and Cornwall, as the traveller happens to be proceeding east or west. A common boat-ferry was established according to act in 1791, by the manorial lords of Stoke Damerel and Antony, and the passage became so frequented in 1828, that an association was formed of the neighbouring nobility and gentry, to effect some improved mode of communication between the shores. A steam boat of peculiar con- struction, but guided by a rudder, was first put upon trial, and failed. Application was then made to J. M. Rendel, Esq. engineer, who has left nothing to be desired on the part of his employers. Mr. Rendel is now justly celebrated as the inventor of the steam and chain boat bridge, which has been so successfully applied at the Torpoint, Saltash, Dartmouth, and other ferries in distant parts of the kingdom. The Torpoint bridge- boat resembles in general outline a flat-bottomed barge 55 feet long and 50 feet wide. It is divided lengthways into three compartments, the two side ones being for the accommodation of the passengers, horses, carriages, and, of course, every description of cattle and vehicle. The central division is occupied by the steam engines and machinery. Lifting and falling platforms, 25 feet long and 10 feet broad, are hung at each end of both the side divisions, to effect every facility of egress and ingress, so that horsemen and the passengers, and drivers of coaches, may with perfect safety drive on and off, and retain their seats during the passage, which is made in 8
96 TORPOINT BRIDGE.
minutes, the width of the river being here 3500 feet. The bridge is impelled by two small steam engines, operating on two fixed chains, which extend across the river from shore to shore. The principle of motion therefore, is much the same as that of an ordinary wheeled vehicle, the ground below in the one instance being answered by the chains above in the other. These chains also serve (as must be obvious) to steady the vessel, and to effect the safe and unerring passage of the boat, notwithstanding exposure to strong winds and a current of 4 miles an hour. The chains sink so precipitately at each end of the boat as to prevent any interruption to the passage of the largest ships over them. The bridge is neither affected by weather nor darkness, and is capable of conveying, at one time,- 4 carriages with 4 horses to each, and a great number of foot passengers. The principle has proved most economical as regards power, superintendence, and repairs ; and as an instance of the good effected, suffice it to say, that, during the first twelve months of operation the travelling was more than doubled. The Cornish mail coach which before commenced its morning and completed its evening journey at Torpoint, now conducts its passengers undisturbed from or to Elliott's Hotel in Devonport. The managing officers are appointed annually by the company, who are lessees of the old ferry, and whose liberality and public spirit have been additionally testified by the building of a second bridge, which either now is; or shortly will be, in operation.
97
TORPOINT BRIDGE.
SUPPLEMENT.
In connexion with the Torpoint Boat-E ridge may be mentioned Mr. Rendel's plan for a new Turnpike Road, from Devonport to St. Austle through JLooe and Fowey, a printed report upon which, to the subscribers for the survey, illustrated by apian (on the scale of 3 inches to a mile) was issued in January, 1835. Besides the great comparative avoidance of hills, the saving in distance compared with the present road through Liskeard and Lostwithiel would exceed 8 miles. These and many other advantages detailed in the report are such as to make us hope that the spirit and means of the public may second the skill of the engineer, and bring (to use the reporter's words) "the two most improtant public harbours of Plymouth and Falmouth nearly two hours nearer to each other, while a coast proverbially exposed to an enemy will be immediately opened to the military depots of Devonport and Plymouth."
A bridge similar to that of Torpoint was established at Saltash by a company of proprietors, under act of parliament in 1832, there having been previously a common boat ferry. The river here is 1200 feet wide and 90 feet deep, with a current of 5 miles an hour. A new road is now making by the Turnpike Trustees to the Saltash Bridge, by which many laborious hills are avoided, the distance from Devonport reduced 2 miles, and from Plymouth nearly one mile. The new road will be not less remarkable for the beautiful prospects unfolded than for its advancement of the agricultural and commercial interests of the vicinity. To the liberality of J . T. Coryton, Esq. of Pentillie Castle and *J. H. Rodd, Esq, of Trebartha Hall, this useful work is chiefly attributable.
99
VISITOR'S GUIDE
TO PLYMOUTH SOUND, BREAKWATER, EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE, &c.
Plymouth Sound has been already generally described in pages 2, 4, and 8. Boats may be hired at the Barbican, or Sandy-cove at the foot of the Hoe, and watermen are usually in waiting at the Royal Hotel. During the summer months, a steam-boat makes frequent excursions to the Eddystone rocks, and for further instructions concerning a visitto the Lighthouse strangers should apply at the Custom House, where they will meet with the master of the Eddystone boat.
St. Nicholas, or, as it is sometimes called "Drake s Island, about a mile from the main land, is guarding, as it were, the mouth of the Tamar . It isstrongly fortified and garrisoned by a detachment of troops from the Plymouth Citadel. The landing-place is on the north side, and the rock is ascended by a flight of steps through a vaulted passage. The area of the island is not more than three acres, a large proportion of which is occupied by the fortifications, and buildings necessary for the accommo- dation of the troops. Leaving this place, and proceeding in a southerly direction through the Sound, our attention is vociferously demanded to the
Breakwater.
We say " vociferously," for the rolling billows of the English Channel are not less audibly than visibly mani- fest, as they exhibit their continuous mile of foamy anger at the effective daring of human power, which seems, at length, to have substantiated Canute's command to the ocean, " Thus far shalt thou come, and no further !" The pride of the old world is now constantly receiving
g 2
100 BREAKWATER.
check in the mare extraordinary works of the new, — not, as regards the poetry of art, — but, unquestionably, as respects the practice of constructive science. The abstract demands of mere colossal magnitude are to be answered by means which no country, under a liberal and christian government, would desire to see available. It is the quantity of mind employed in the Plymouth Breakwater and Eddystone Lighthouse, which renders them far more astonishing, and as much more truly estimable, than the great Egyptian Pyramid, or the Alexandrian Pharos.
Nothing had been done to improve the Sound and render it a secure anchorage-place for ships of war until the winds and tides were suitable either for going into Hamoaze, or proceeding to sea, before the year 1806, when Messrs. Rennie and Whidby were directed to make the necessary surveys. On their reports his Majesty's order in council was issued, bearing date the 22nd day of June, 1811, for commencing the work on the plan pro- posed by the aforesaid gentlemen, and on the 12th of August, 1812, the first stone was laid with great pomp and ceremony. The whole length of the Breakwater is eight hundred and fifty fathoms, its eastern end extending about sixty fathoms from the St. Carlos Rocks, and its western about three hundred from the Shovel. The centre has a straight direction ; the ends inclining to the middle part in an angle of about one hundred and twenty degrees. Breadth at the base 120 yards — at the top 16; length at the base 1760 yards— at the top (including the two arms) 1700; average height 14 yards ; slope of the work towards the sea, three horizontal to one perpendicular ; towards the land, one and a half horizontal to one perpendicular. The marble of which it is formed is obtained from the quarries in Catwater, thrown in promiscuously, in blocks of several tons each. The estimate of its probable expense, at the commence- ment, was £1,171,100, and, it is calculated to shelter with facility 50 sail of the line.
S 1 It A N C E B 's GUIDE. 1 0 I
Fhe summit is paved with square blocks of stone, rendering it a fine promenade, 48 feet in width ; and near the centre of the side towards the land a square projection is made, on the three sides of which are convenient landing-steps, facing east, west, and north, offering a sheltered debarkation at any wind. On this projection stands a flag-staff, from which the British ensign is displayed on public days ; and whence floated the royal standard in the summer of 1824, in honour of a visit from his present Majesty when Duke of Clarence. The initials of the royal visitor, with the date, &c. are engraven on a stone of the Breakwater, as a memorial of the event. Another stone is engraven in honour of Lord Melville and the board of admiralty, who visited the Breakwater shortly after.
The utility of the Breakwater has been long apparent, and its effects have answered the most sanguine expec- tations. Indeed, so early as the end of the second year from its commencement, when about 800 yards only of the central part were visible at low-water, there was a striking alteration experienced in the state of the Sound ; for the swell at the head of it was so much broken down, that the fishermen were no longer able, as before, to form a correct opinion of the state of the sea on the outside of the port. On one occasion 200 sail of vessels, driven in by tempest, found protection within its extended arms.
The strength of the work was put to a severe test in a tremendous hurricane on the night of the 9th January, 1817, when the water rose six feet beyond what is usual at spring-tides, and his majesty's ships Jaspar and Telegraph were driven on shore in the sound and lost. On examining the Breakwater after the storm had sub- sided, it was found that about 200 yards in length, and 30 in width, of the upper stratum of the finished part, had been displaced by the violence of the sea.
The severest trial, however, took place on the 22nd and 23rd of November, 1824, when the whole southern coast of England was bestrewed with wreck and desolation.
g 3
102 BREAKWATER.
The tide rose to the frightful height of 26 feet 2 inches, while the mean height of its rise at spring-tides is usually only 18 feet. The greater part of the surface of the Breakwater was on that occasion completely over- turned, and huge stones of from two to five tons each were carried from the outer and deposited on the inner slope. The centre and western end suffered most, and the landing place was destroyed. It is, however, con- sidered that the advantage gained to the work by the shock, causing the blocks to be more firmly settled down, will more than compensate for the derangement of the surface. On the whole, therefore, this occurrence may be considered as a most satisfactory proof of the utility and durability of this great national barrier. It need hardly be remarked, that those liabilities to injury, to which such a work as the Breakwater is subject while in progress, will not exist to anything like an equal extent when the work is completed. In the hurricane of January, 1828, not a single stone of the finished part of the work was moved from its position.
The fears entertained by some, that the erection might ultimately be detrimental to the Sound and Devonport harbour, by causing an increased deposit of mud and silt, are satisfactorily proved to be groundless, no per- ceptible alteration having taken place in the depth of water at either of those places, or in the strength or set of the tides.
To insure a correct general idea of the form and substance of the Breakwater a small plan, fig. 1, and a section to a larger scale, fig. 2, are adjoined.
At Staddon Point, opposite the eastern end of the Breakwater, a quay is erected as a landing-place, for the accommodation of boats taking in water for vessels in the sound. At a short distance from this point, is Bovisand Reservoir, constructed in a hollow between two hills. It is supplied from an excellent stream ; and is capable of containing from ten to twelve thousand tuns of water, a sufficient quantity to furnish fifty sail of
Fxgl
P L AN .
&tc£j-c'o£t
One -Mite in -Zettgtck
H
en i
Hi •
stranger's guide. 103
the line. The water is conveyed in iron pipes to the landing-place, and thence on board the ships. The expense of its construction was £l 6,000. The establish- ment is under the direction of the Victualling-Board. Near the reservoir resides the superintendent of the Breakwater establishment, in a neat modern house, delightfully situated, sheltered by hills, and commanding a full view of the Breakwater, Sound, Cawsand-bay, and the opposite shore. The public works in the vicinity have given attractiveness to a spot heretofore scarcely known by name ; and Bovisand-bay has consequently become a favourite resort for aquatic parties. A group of cottages on the cliff furnishes the usual accommo- dation for tea and other refreshments.
On the western side of the Sound, opposite Bovisand, is Cawsand Bay, the united villages of Cawsand and Kingsand appearing at its inner extremity. At some distance S.E. of the Breakwater is the Shag Stone, an isolated rock of some magnitude ; and, further on to the S.E. is the Mew Stone rearing its pyramidal mass out of the surrounding waters, and standing, as it were, sentry in the great portal of Plymouth Sound. This curious rock- island appertains to C. Calmady, Esq. and swarms with rabbits. Mr. Prideaux, alluding to its geology, speaks of it as " composed of red sand stone, and a rather gritty slate, full in some places of pale greenish nodules; per- haps organic reliques. The strata are laid open by the sea and weather, in such an extraordinary way, that they look as if displayed by art in tables for exhibition." — ( See transactions of the Plymouth Institution.) — A reef of subject rocks called the Little Mew~sto7ie is seen near the rock dominant, and in his befitting castle on the latter lives the feudal " Lord of the Isles," Sam Wakeham, of whom a full account was published some time back in No. 21, of the South Devon Museum, from which we take the liberty to quote the following description of the view commanded from the summit of the Mewstone. — "Dim in the eastern distance is
104 EDDYSTOJSfE LICIITHOUSE.
shadowed the Bolt-Head, south -westward of it may be observed the mouth of the Avon, and the long line of Bigbury bay, receiving the waters of the Erme, but the mouth of this river is hidden behind the promontory called Stoke Point. The river Yealm is seen winding its way between headlands into the Sound, nearly opposite the Mewstone ; and a little southward of its mouth stands the lonely church of Wembury ; thence the eye is carried to Bovisand bay and pier ; Staddon Heights ; Mount Batten ; the Hoe; Mount Edgcumbe ; Maker Heights, with Kingsand and Cawsand nestling below them ; Penlee point, the Obelisk, and Adelaide chapel ; Rame head, and its crowning chapel ; Whitsand bay, and the rugged line of Cornish coast, stretching away to the Lizard point. "
The Eddystonc Lighthouse.
While the Breakwater is admired as a work of mere utility and magnitude, the Eddystone Lighthouse pos- sesses a triple charm, as a brilliant gem of constructive science, as an object fascinating in form and situation, and as characterized by a noble purpose of humanity. Elevated on a head-land, or isolated within a short distance from the shore, it would claim, (and, indeed merit) little comparative interest : but, rising, as it does, amid the swelling billows of the open sea, apart from all but an occasional and brief communion with the social world, either shrouded in the black horrors of the ocean storm, or gleaming in unparticipated sunshine, it acts upon our senses with a spell of magic and finely typi- fies the quality of truth — " immutable, immaculate, and immortal, — firm alike in weal and woe — unaffected by the ever floating change of surrounding existence, and serene amid the vainly threatening surge of worldly scorn!"
stranger's guide. IOo
This interesting structure is built on one* of a large cluster of rocks stretching across the channel in a north and south direction, to the length of about one hundred fathoms, it is distant from the pier at Plymouth fourteen miles, and wholly exposed to heavy swells from the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic ocean. The particular form and position of these rocks tend greatly to augment the force of the sea, and previously to the erection of the lighthouse, many fatal accidents happened upon them. Though most important to the port of Plymouth, the Eddystone Lighthouse is beneficial to all vessels going up the channel. In 1696, notwithstanding the insuperable difficulties that seemed to attend the erection of an edifice on a rock so situated, Mr. H. Winstanley, succeeded in accomplishing that desirable object. His fabric, however, was so fantastically constructed that it bore no unapt resemblance to a Chinese pagoda, and the general opinion was that it would prove as frail in substance, as it was fanciful in taste. Mr. Winstanley, however, "was so well assured of the strength of his building, that he only wished to be there in the greatest storm that ever blew under the face of the heavens, that he might have an opportunity of witnessing what effect it would have upon the lighthouse/7 This desire was fatally accomplished in November 1703. Mr. Winstanley went out to superintend some repairs of the building, and that very night a tempest arose, which so increased, that next day the Lighthouse, with its inmates, was swept into the deep. It had not been long destroyed before the Winchelsea, Virginiaman, laden with tobacco for Plymouth, went to pieces on the rocks, and all on board were lost.
The next light-house erected by Mr. John Rudyerd, was constructed of stone and timber. The building formed the frustrum of a cone, free from any projection
* Mr. Prideaux describes this one rock— and that only — as of gneiss; the only rock of its kind that he is aware of in England.
106 EDD*STONE LIGHTHOUSE.
which might endager its security. It was commenced 1706, completed 1709, and sustained the attacks of the sea, upwards of forty-six years, when it was destroyed by fire against which no precautions had been taken, because no idea of such danger had been entertained. On the 22nd of August, 1755, the workmen had returned on shore, having finished all necessary repairs for the season; between which time, and the 2nd of December following, the attending-boat had been several times to the lighthouse, and on the first of December, landed some stores, when the light- keepers made no complaint. On the morning, however, of the 2nd of December, about two o'clock the light-keeper went into the lantern, and found the whole in smoke. On opening the door into the balcony, a flame instantly burst from the inside of the lantern : he endeavoured to alarm his companions ; but they being asleep, were not so ready in coming to his assistance as the occasion required. As there was always a tub of water, in the lantern, he attempted to extinguish the fire in the cupola, by throwing the water from the balcony, upon the outside cover of lead : by this time his comrades approaching, proceeded to fetch up water with the leathern buckets from the sea ; but the labour of earring it from below to a height of 70 feet was too tardy in operation, and the flames continued to gather strength until the fire was discovered by some Cawsand fishermen, who pushed off their boat and reached the rocks at 10 o'clock, after the fire had been burning for 8 hours. By this time the light-keepers, driven from the rooms and staircase, to avoid the falling of the timber, and red-hot bolts, had taken refuge in a hole, on the east side of the rock, and were found almost in a state of stupefaction. The wind at this time was sufficient to render the landing most hazardous. It was with mucli difficulty, therefore, that the men could be taken in ; but this being accomplished, the boat hastened to Ply- mouth. No sooner, however, were they set on shore, than one of them made ofT, and no tidings were
stranger's guide. 107
afterwards obtained of him. This circumstance created a suspicion of the fire having originated in design; but, as the peculiar situation of the lighthouse " seemed to preclude the possibility of its being burnt wilfully, n Mr. Smeaton attributed his flight to that panic which sometimes seizes weak minds, and irresistibly prompts them to commit actions the tendency of which is pre- cisely inverse to the effect intended. Admiral West, who than lay with a fleet in Piy mouth Sound, sent a launch, with several hands and an engine; but the agitation of the waves was so great, that nothing could be done in stopping the progress of the flames ; and after some ineffectual attempts to play upon the building, the engine-pipe was broken by accident. The fire was in consequence left to its own course. A curious practi- cal comment is afforded in the fact that the interposed beds of timber were sufficient to heat the moor stone red- hot. Not till the seventh of the month did the joint action of the wind, the fire, and the sea totally complete the catastrophe ; and Rudyerd's admirable building, faulty only in its materials, then exhibited no other evidence of its late existence than was afforded by the iron cramps and branches left standing upright upon the rock. The most remarkable circumstance connected with the des- truction of Rudyerd's Lighthouse, is recorded in the fate of Henry Hall, one of the light-keepers, 94 years of age. While looking upwards to observe the progress of the flames, a shower of melted lead fell from the roof, and a quantity of the liquid metal passed down his throat. The man having disclosed this fact, was not believed ; but on his death, which took place about twelve days after the accident, his body being opened, a solid piece of lead, weighing seven ounces and five dramns, was found in his stomach.
The present building, erected by the justly celebrated Smeaton, exhibits a striking instance of art and ingenuity, and has hitherto remained a monument of great original power and acquired skill. The first stone was laid on
108 EDDY STONE LIGHTHOETSE.
the first of June, 1757. "Mr. Smeaton conceived the idea of his edifice from the waist or bole of a large spreading oak. Considering the figure of a tree as connected with its roots, which lie hid below the ground, Mr S. observed that it rose from the surface with a large swelling base which, at the height of one diameter, is generally reduced by an elegant concave curve to a diameter less by at least one third, and sometimes to half its original base. Hence he deduced what the shape of a column of the greatest stability ought to be to resist the action of external violence, when the quantity of matter of which it is to be composed is given." To expedite the erection of the building the stones were hewn and fitted to each other on shore, and after every precaution to ensure security had been taken, the work was completed in October, 1759.
Thefollowing occurence is related as havingtaken place during its construction. " Louis the XIV. being at war with England while the work was proceeding with, a French privateer took the men at work on the Eddystone rocks, together with their tools, and carried them to France, the captain expecting a reward for the achieve- ment. While the captives lay in prison, the transaction came to the knowledge of the French monarch, who immediately ordered the prisoners to be released and the captors to be confined in their stead, declaring that though he was at war with England he was not so with mankind. He therefore directed the men to be sent back to their work with presents."
With the exception of the lantern, which is of cast iron and copper, the Lighthouse is entirely of stone, the outside being of granite, and the several floors vaulted.
The body of the building is circular in plan, the diameter of the base being 26 feet, and that of the top immediately below the gallery 15 feet. The height, from the bottom of the lowest course of stone-work to the gallery level is 70 feet. Above the gallery rises the octagonal lantern, 24 feet high, making a total altitude
o s /o to .jo 40 fojb
IP L AN" AND S ECTIOK
OF
THE EDDYS TONE LIGHT HOUSE
SI RANGER S GUIDE. 109
of 94 feet. An elevation and section are given, by which a correct knowledge of the external form and internal construction and arrangement may be obtained. By the etched portion of the section, it will be seen that the building is perfectly solid up to the level A, where is the entrance passage. The verticle opening B is occupied by a spiral stair-flight leading to the lower store-room C. The upper store-room D, the kitchen E, and the bed-room F, are successively approached by step ladders. G is the gallery, and H the lantern.
The great body of the Eddystone Lighthouse, as before observed, is constructed of granite and Portland stone, the latter being employed only to fill up the solid parts of the interior. There are in the height from the rock to the gallery 40 entire courses of masonry, and several incomplete ditto, necessary to connect the building with the slanting surface of its foundation. The stones average a ton weight each. Those on the same level are all dovetailed together, something after the mode of a dissected toy map ; and the successive courses are attached to each other by means of square marble blocks, (called joggles, or dowels) which project one half of their solidity into the course below, and the other half into the course above. By this, and other assistant means, so firm a bond is maintained both horizontally and vertically, that the building may be regarded as " one entire and perfect " substance. To resist the lateral pressure two iron binding chains encircle the building at the springing ef each floor vault, and every additional precaution has been taken to render the structure not less proof against the slow workings of ordinary decay, than against the sudden attacks of of tempestuous fury. The curvelinear outlines of its vertical section, as well as the circular form of its plan, contribute much to dissipate the force of wave and wind,, nor is it, finally, unreasonable to suppose, that, with slight occasional repair, the Eddystone Lighthouse will exist, as long as the rock on which it stands shall continue
H
110 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE.
to form an unshaken foundation. Such of our readers as desire a more perfect acquaintance with this extra- ordinary building should consult the noble folio volume published by Mr. Smeaton in 1813. Mr. Smeaton's narrative is therein "set down with as much mode-ty as cunning;" and the pious humility of the architect is evinced in the following inscription on a course of granite round the upper store room : —
" EXCEPT THE LORD BUILD THE HOUSE "THEY LABOUR IN VAIN THAT BUILD IT
" Psalm cxxvii. "
Over the easrside of the lantern are the words
" 24th Augt. 1759.
" Laus Deo."
At first there were only two light-keepers ; but an incident of a very distressing nature shewed the necessity of an additional hand. One of the two keepers died ; the dilemma in which this occurence left the survivor was singularly painful ; apprehensive that if he threw the body into the sea, (the only way in his power to dispose of it) he might be charged with murder, he was induced for some time to retain the corpse in hopes that the attending-boat might relieve him from the distress he was in. It was near a -month before the boat could effect a landing. To such a degree was the whole building infected with the putridity of the corpse, that it was immediately on the entrance of the witnesses thrown into the sea.
Three men are now stationed here, each of whom has, in the summer, a month's leave to visit his friends.. They are provided with food and all other necessaries by a boat appointed for that purpose ; but they are always stocked with salt provisions, to guard against the possibility of want, as in winter it sometimes happens that the boat cannot approach the rock for many weeks together.
stranger's guide. Ill
Gilpin observes, "in high winds so briny an atmos- phere surrounds this gloomy solitude, from the dashing of the waves, that a person exposed to it could hardly draw his breath. At these dreadful intervals the forlorn inhabitants keep close quarters, and are obliged to live in darkness listening to the howling storm, excluded in every emergency from the hope of human assistance, and without any earthly comfort but that which results from their confidence in the strength of the building in which they are immured. In fine weather they just scramble about the edge of the rock when the tide ebbs, and amuse themselves with fishing ; and this is the only employment they have, except that of trimming their nightly fires. " Smeaton, in speaking of one of these light-keepers, says, "In the fourteen years that he had been here he was grown so attached to the place, that for the two summers preceding he had given up his turn on shore to his companions, and declared his intention of doing the same the third; but was over- persuaded to go on shore and take his month's turn. He bad always in this service proved himself a decent, sober, well-behaved man ; but he no sooner got on shore than he gave himself up to intoxication. In this state he was carried on board the Eddystone boat, and delivered in the light-house, where he was expected to grow sober. He lingered a few days and expired ! n Among other of Mr. Smeaton's anecdotes is the following. " A shoemaker was engaged to be the light-keeper. When in the boat, the skipper said, " How happens it, friend Jacob, that you should choose to be cooped up here as a light-keeper, when you can on shore earn half- a-crowm and three shillings a day in making leathern hose (leathern pipes so called) ; whereas the light-keeper's salary is but 25/. a year, which is scarce ten shillings a week?" "Every one to his taste," replied Jacob promptly, " I go to be a light-keeper, because I don't like confinement"
The duties paid by ships passing the Lighthouse are collected at all the neighbouring ports, and are as follow :
112 EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE.
upon all British ships outward or homeward bound, on or from foreign voyages, one penny per ton ; one shilling per vessel from all coasters ; and double these sums on foreign ships when they come into British ports : the king's ships are all exempt,
113
MOUNT EDGCUMBE
Will, of course, be one of the first objects claiming the particular attention of the stranger, to whom the grounds are kindly open, under certain restrictions. The gate- keepers have strict orders to refuse admission to any party bringing baskets or bundles, containing provisions of any sort; nor will bands of music, nor a numerous attendance of servants, be permitted to enter the grounds.
No person on horseback or in a carriage can be admitted at the lower gate, but those who wish to drive or ride round the park must go up the turnpike road, and enter at the higher lodge, after putting down their names in a book at the lower lodge.
The Plymouth sojourner has the option of proceeding to Mount Edgcumbe by water from the foot of the Hoe; or of merely crossing the ferry from Stonehouse. If he proceed from Devonport, he will embark at the foot of Mount Wise. In choosing either of the two latter means, he will have a tine water view of the new Victualling Establishment on his left.
On arriving at the lodge, the visitor will observe the House terminating the perspective of a noble avenue, formed by two double rows of elm trees.
Near the lodge, on the left, is the Italian Garden, characterised by all the peculiarities of the style whence its name is derived, viz. the central fountain with its caryatidal vase of marble; regular walks, diverging therefrom ; an orangery of Palladian design, opposed by a balustered terrace ; and a select party of the Heathen family occupying their uniformly arranged pedestals.
The statues of Apollo, Venus, and Bacchus, will be recognised in their elevated position on the terrace. Others of Flora, Ceres, the Discobolus, and Antinous, - h 3
114 stranger's guide.
decorate the lower ground. In a niche under the central figure is placed a bust of Ariosto, and beneath it are inscribed the following lines from that poet : —
" Vicino al lido, donde a poco a poco Si vasalendo in verso il colle araeno, Cedri, e naranci, e lauri, e mirti il loco E mille altri soavi arbori han pieno. Serpillo, e persa, e rose, e gigli, e croco, Spargon dalP odorifero terreno Tanta soavita, che in mar sentire La fa' ogni vento, che de terra spire."
A physical translation of which is afforded in the scene around. The orange trees are among the finest in England.
The visitor is next shewn the French Flower Garden, a little square enclosure, bounded by a hedge of ever- green oak and bay, and laid out in a parterre, with a bason and^'e£ d'eau in the midst, issuing from rock-work intermixed with shells, and surrounded by berceaux and arches of trellis twined over by all sorts of creeping plants. One side of the garden is occupied by an octagonal room opening on each side into conservatories. A picture at the back of the room, being removed, discovers a beautiful little statue of Meleager, behind which a glass is so placed as to reflect all the garden, and create, from a little distance, a pleasing illusion. This figure is answered by another of Mercury, placed opposite to it, outside the enclosure, and only seen in perspective under the arches, and through a circle of trellis work. In the border, on one side, a singularly fine magnolia should be remarked : opposite to it, on the other, is erected a cenotaph to the memory of Sophia, Countess of Mount Edgcumbe, who held this spot in peculiar favour. The Countess died in 1806.
Sated with Italy and France, we next hail with unusual welcome the unrestrained aspect of the English Flower Garden, with its " happy accidents," and de- ceptive boundaries, its beds of shrubs and flowers, and
MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 115
beautiful trees, amongst which some extraordinarily fine magnolias, of unusual size, cedars both of Libanus and Virginia, and several cork trees, ought particularly to be remarked. A bench presents the following lines from Cowper : —
" Prospects, however lovely, may be seen Till half their beauties fade ; the wearied eye Too well acquainted with their charms, slides off Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes. Then snug enclosures in some shelter'd spot, Where frequent hedges intercept the eye, Delight us, happy to renounce awhile, Not senseless of its charms, what still we love, That such short absence may endear it more."
In this garden is a handsome pavilion, comprising a vestibule, with a small room on each side, both very tastefully fitted up, the one as a study, the other as a boudoir. Behind these is a dressing-room, communi- cating with a bath, in which hot and cold water are poured from the mouths of two bronze dolphins into a capacious marble basin.
A narrow and almost hidden path, winds down into a small quarry or excavation, thickly overshadowed with high evergreens, and overspread with ivy and other low plants, through which the natural rock of the soil peeps out on all sides : in this little obscure recess are placed a number of antique cinerary urns and sarcophagi, dis- posed irregularly about the ground, and on the various points of rock, exhibiting the appearance of a Pcoman cemetery. At the further end, amidst the confused heap of stones, lies a fine capital of the Corinthian order, brought from the ruins of Alexandria.
On a point of land, which with Cremill point, oppo- site, forms as it wTere the portal into Hamoaze, stands the Blockhouse. It was built with two or three others, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, for the defence of the port, and is now a picturesque ruin, partly covered with ivy. Against one of its sides, a plain portico of two
11*5 stranger's guide.
moorstone columns has been erected for a seat, and m front of it is a saluting battery of twenty-one guns. A tablet in the wall gives the following description from Carew's Survey of Cornwall, A.D. 1602 :— -
" Both sides of the narrow entrance are fenced with blockhouses, and that next Mount Edgcumbe was wont to be planted with ordnance, which, at coming and parting, with their base voices greeted such guests as visited the house.'7
The other blockhouse here spoken of is still standing on the opposite rocks : a modern redoubt has been erected on the hill above it. The Mount Edgcumbe battery was restored in 1747, and was again entirely re- mounted in 1800, with French eight-pounders, all purchased from prizes. The view from this spot is most delightful, comprehending all Barnpool and the Sound, the Island, Mount Batten, and Mewstone, with the open sea beyond. Hence, too, a large portion of the hill, and woods of the place itself, are seen to the greatest advantage, with the towers of the house rising above the trees in which it appears embosomed.
Near this is Thomson's Seat, a Doric alcove, so called from the following apposite quotation from his poems.
" On either hand Like a long wint'ry forest, groves of masts -hot up their spires ; the bellying sheet between Possess'd the breezy void : the sooty hulk Steer'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along Ilow'd regular, to harmony : around, The boat, light skimming, streatch'd its oary wings, While deep the various voice of fervent toil From bank to bank increas'd ; whence ribb'd with oak To bear the British thunder, black and bold, The roaring vessel rush'd into the main."
The visitor is now conducted to a gate of exit from the Gardens, and left by the guide to pursue, alone, his course through the grounds.
Following the margin of the water he crosses, what may be termed the proscenium of a " woody threatre/'
MOUNT EDCCUMRE. 117
on the southern side of which is an Ionic monopteral temple, inclosing a bust of Milton and the following descriptive lines: —
" Over head up grew Insuperable height of loftiest shade, Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, A sylvan scene : and as the ranks ascend Shade above shade, a woody theatre Of stateliest view,"
Amongst the fine trees which adorn this valley, several tulip trees, oriental and occidental plants of a remarkable size, a large cedar of Libanus, and a Carolina poplar of extraordinary height, ought particularly to be noticed.
The visitor is now left unperplexed with gratuitous description, to enjoy the varieties of rock, wood, declivity, and ascent, which lead onwards to the Artificial Ruin, loftily situated on his right, and which he should not, on any slight account, fail to ascend. A few steps lead to a secure and convenient landing, from which he will overlook a panorama of singular extent, variety, and beauty. Of its more proximate features, the darkly embowered entrance into the cavernous grove on the south, may possibly strike him as most remarkable. Below this is the Cottage, notable as a specimen of its style, and as romantically situated as a poetical wanderer could desire. Anticipating fatigue, we may here inform him that " a chair is at his service."
The visitor will next be directed how, by means of a winding path cut round a precipice, he may ascend to the Great Terruce through a rugged and " ivy-clad " archway. A stone seat close by, on the edge of an almost perpendicular precipice, commands a fine view over the Sound immediately at his feet, with the open sea to the right; St. Nicholas' Island, Plymouth, &c. to the left. At this place are the principle ascent and descent to the Zigzag Walks, which are cut in the side of the hill both above and below7 the terrace, extending upwards to Redding Point, where he enters the park, and downwards as low as the cliff is practicable. Prom
118 STRANGER^ GUIDE.
the number and intricacy of these walks, it is not possible to describe them accurately, or give directions what paths to pursue : but every part of them is extremely beautiful, and almost every turn discovers some fresh view, from the variety of the rocks which form the coast, and from the different openings caught through the trees and shrubs. The new, or Upper Zigzags, are, if possible, still more beautiful than the lower: the cliff in parts being more abrupt, the shrubs more luxuriant, and the views, from the height whence they are seen, more magnificent and commanding. At the very summit, a bench, placed on a prominent point of rock, overlooks the whole side of the almost perpendicular precipice, clothed with its rich covering of arbutus and other ever- greens, which seem to dip their branches into the sea beneath.
Following the terrace, the visitor winds onward towards the right, and suddenly enters Picklecomhe, a regularly formed valley receding from Cawsand Bay, having, at the inner extremity of its curve, a small artificial ruin, in which is a seat, from whence the eye passes through the valley's length and rests upon the ma- rine expanse beyond. Having made the circuit of this little valley, the stranger comes in sight of Hoe-lake Valley, at the bottom of which, amid a cluster of trees, stands a cottage, picturesque in style and furnished with deer skins, antlers, and other park emblems. Ascending the hill northward, we arrive at Maker Church, by which the visitor may proceed a short way homeward, if his time be limited : otherwise he should enter the park, round which the pleasure grounds extend, and follow the grass drive, which is carried round the whole summit of the hill, and conducts straight forward to Redding Point. An expanse of open sea here bursts upon the sight, confined by Staddon Heights and the Mewstone on the left, and on the right by Penlee Point, under which lies Cawsand Bay, with the little town from whence it takes its name. The Breakwater appears immediately in front,
MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 119
and in clear weather the Eddystone light-house is visible, at a great distance in the offing.
The path continues northward to an alcove on the summit of the hill called the White Scat, from which you overlook Ilamoaze, and the whole course of the river Tamar as high as the town of Saltash; the ships in the harbour ; the dock-yard, and town of Devonport; the church and village of Stoke ; the Military Hospital; Stonehouse, with the Naval Hospital and Marine Dai racks ; the Citadel and churches of Plymouth ; Saltram, the seat of the earl of Morley; Catwater, with its shipping, enclosed by Mount Batten ; St. Nicholas' Island, the Sound, and Staddon Heights beyond it : the whole view is bounded by a range of lofty hills, among which the round top of Hingston (or Hengist) Down, the peaked head of Brent Tor, and the irregular summits of Dartmoor, are conspicuous.
From the White Seat the visitor may proceed west- ward towards the upper gate, observing the thickly planted grove which nobly crowns Mount Edgcumbe, and forms its most distinguishing feature wdien viewed as a distant object from the country around. The Shrubbery and Home Terrace are also well worthy of the visitor's notice ; but as the beauties they disclose are not dis- tinctively peculiar, we shall not dwell upon them. " The grounds occupy an area of about three miles in cir- cumference, including the whole peninsula between Hamoaze and the Sound."
The house was erected about the year 1550, in the castellated style, battlemented, with round towers at the corners ; but these were pulled down in the middle of the last century, and rebuilt in their present octangular form. The hall, originally Gothic, has long been modernized, and is now a handsome lofty room of two stories, with galleries supported by columns of Devon- shire marble. The chimney-pieces, tables, and terms, bearing busts of Italian workmanship copied from the antique, exhibit fine specimens of various Cornish Granites.
120 stranger's guide.
An extensive addition has been made, at different times, to the west end, containing, among other con- venient apartments, a large library and a dining-room.
The paintings at Mount Edgcumbe chiefly consist of portraits ; among which are those of the first earl of Sandwich; his daughter, lady Anne, and her husband, Sir Richard Edgcumbe ; all by Sir Peter Lely. A curious portrait of Margaret Edgcumbe, maid-of-honour to queen Elizabeth, represented in widow's weeds ; and who was, when the picture was painted, in the sixty- eighth year of her age, and the forty-eighth of her widow- hood. Portraits of Charles I. the duke of Monmouth, Charles II. James II. prince Rupert, and William III. The following are by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Richard the first baron Edgcumbe, Richard the second baron, George, created earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and Emma his countess.
" In the parliamentary wars," says Mr. Rowe, " Mount Edgcumbe was distinguished for its loyal adherence to the cause of Charles I. It was occupied as one of the royal fortresses, and claims the honour of having held out longer than any other in Devon, except Salcombe. It was surrendered to Col. Hammond, 21st April, 1646."
Maker, Caws and, Rame, Bliilbrook, &c.
The vicinity west and south west of Mount Edgcumbe is worthy the notice of residents and such visitors as can afford the time. The following is, with certain curtail- ments and a few additions, chiefly taken from a former Guide Book published by Mr. Rowe.
We shall commence the present excursion from Cremill ferry, and follow the turnpike through the demesne of Mount Edgcumbe, to Maker church, the tower of which, commanding a view of the open sea and harbour, from its elevated situation has been used, during war, as a station for making signals to the fort of Mount- Wise. Although nature seems so distinctly to have marked the
MAKER, CAWS AND, ETC. 121
boundaries of the counties by the waters of the Tamar, some unknown reason has assigned a large portion of the parish of Maker to Devonshire. The church, a neat fabric of some antiquity, consists of a nave, chancel, and two side ailes. The principal monuments are those of the Edgcumbe family, to which the presentation of the church belongs. Leaving the church we follow a path through the fields, and observe the neat vicarage, pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity. From this, passing to the small hamlet of Maker, noted only for its tea-houses, we speedily arrive at Maker heights, where a number of redoubts, mounted with heavy ordnance, were constructed during the American war. These are furnished with barracks; command Cawsand Bay, Mill- brook Lake, and the adjacent country ; and are garri- soned in time of war, with troops from the regiments at Plymouth. By a steep and difficult road we descend to the town formed by Cawsand, and Kingsand — the latter in Devon, the former in Cornwall; a small brook form- ing at the same time the boundary of the two towns, the parishes of Rame and Maker, and the two counties, This place has partaken largely in the prosperity which the whole district owes to the naval establishments of the neigbourhood. In Carew's time it consisted only of a few fishermen's huts ; it now contains above three hun- dred houses, many of them large and well built. Its support, which in time of war was principally derived from the number of ships that resorted to the Bay, is chiefly dependent on the Pilchard Fisheries. On a rocky eminence, which rises near the centre of Cawsand, are the vestiges of a fortification, at present called the Bul- warks: it was originally mounted with ordnance. Tra- dition records, that Henry VII. when asserting his claim to the English throne as earl of Ptichmond, landed at Cawsand ; but being informed, while refreshing him- self after his voyage, that a strict watch was kept at Plymouth for his apprehension, he re-embarked to seek a more favourable port.
i
122 stranger's guide.
The Plantations and carriage road, extending along the eastern side of the hill above Kingsand and Cawsand and around Penlee point, are the chief features of many extensive improvements lately effected by Lord Valletort. At some distance above the road is Penlee Beacon, a lofty obelisk conspicuous as a land mark for mariners ; and l* on the bold headland of Penlee, accessible by a foot path which diverges from the carriage road above mentioned," has been erected a picturesque little Gothic building, called Adelaide Chapel, in honor of her present Majesty, who, with King William — then Lord High Admiral, visited the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe in 1827, and made frequent excursions to this her favo- rite spot. We next reach Rame Head, well known as one of the most prominent head-lands on the southern coast of the kingdom. " On this exposed elevation stands a ruined chapel, built of the same stone as that which forms the cliffs, and probably the work of some mariner, who dedicated it to a patron saint in gratitude for his escape from the dangers of the ocean." From this point we shall direct our course to Rame church and village, situated on the declivity of the hill, whose southern side opposes a precipitous cliff to the sea. Leaving Rame by the public road that leads to Cawsand, we proceed till we arrive at a lane that branches off to the left, and which will conduct us to a path over some high ground, commanding extensive views of the vicinity. In our descent on the opposite side of the hill, towards Maker, we gain a pleasing view of the town of Cawsand, at the bottom of a fertile vale, with the blue waters of the bay beyond. Having entered the Maker turnpike- road in our progress towards Millbrook, we observe the new feChapel-of-Ease, which was erected by voluntary subscription, aided by a grant from the commissioners for building churches and chapels. The site was given by the earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and the chapel conse- crated by the lord bishop of Exeter in October, 1827. Millbrook, pleasantly situated in a sheltered bottom,
SB ARROW GROT. 123
at the head of a creek branching out of llamoaze, contains above two hundred houses, many of them well built, and agreeably situated, enjoying pleasing views of the creek, Mount Edgcumbe, and the surrounding country. Proceeding west of Millbrook towards the sea, and having passed the estate of Freathy, we shall arrive at
Sharrow Grot,
an artificial excavation in the cliffs at Whitsand Bay. The cavern is fifteen feet deep and seven high, with an arched roof and benches entirely hewn out of the solid rock, by the Herculean labour of the uncle of the late Joseph Lugger, esq. who, in consequence of adopting this singular prescription, is said to have successfully resisted the attacks of the gout. The sides of the grotto are inscribed with verses descriptive of the surrounding scenery; over the entrance is engraven these words from the /Eneid — " vivo sedilia Saxo;" and the spot com- mands a vast expanse of ocean, stretching beyond the head-lands, which form the boundaries of the bay. On the beach below Sharrow Grot are the remains of Sharrow Palace, (as it was called) a house of refuge for fishermen which once stood there. One of the corners of this building may be still seen on a detached mass of rock, and around it are numerous traces of walls becoming gradually less distinct as they are washed by the ocean-tempests of succeeding winters. In the per- pendicular rock above these remains is aline of grooves dug at regular distances, and which, most probably, were occupied by the ends of the beams that originally supported the roof of the building.
In returning we leave Millbrook on the left, and pursue our tour towards the naval brewery, at South Down, situated on the peninsula of Ince worth. This manor originally formed part of the extensive domains I of the earls of Cornwall. In Risdon's time it was aa princely place, both for amenity and commodity ;" and
i 2
124 stranger's guide.
vestiges of the former importance of the manor-house are still to be traced among the buildings at Inceworth farm. The most perfect remains of the ancient structure will be found in a Gothic chapel, at present used as a granary.
The path from Millbrook to South Down is carried along the margin of the creek, the which being crossed we shall land at Anderton, and pursue a path through rich pasture lands, and the skirts of Mount Edgcumbe grounds. At high-water this walk will be found very pleasing, for the various prospects on both sides of Hamoaze, Devonport, Torpoint, &c. which it affords. After passing numerous neat dwellings we reach Impa- combe ; where having noticed the entrance to the kitchen gardens of Mount Edgcumbe3 and crossed the path-field in which the obelisk is placed on an eminence above Ilamoaze, we once more arrive at Cremili-fcrry.
125
SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, &c.
Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley, has para- mount claims upon the visitor's early notice, derived not less from the internal riches of the mansion, than from the external beauties by which it is surrounded. The ready permission granted by the noble and liberal pro- prietor to all who are desirous of viewing the house and grounds, and the marked attention and courtesy with which all respectable visitors are received, demand our gratitude and admiration.
The mansion is situate at some distance from the new London Road (which passes over the Lary Bridge), and about 3 miles from the Royal Hotel, Plymouth. If the visitor proceed by carriage, he will leave Plymouth by its eastern exit, and continue along the high road till he approaches the Elizabethan residence of J. Johnston, Esq. distinguished by its barge-board gables and other picturesque features of that style, which we rejoice to see is once more gaining favour in its native land. Here, instead of following the direct line, the visitor will branch off towards the right, and, passing over Lary Bridge, he will arrive, by a road turning short round to the left, at the Lodge at Chelson Meadow. In the event of going by water, wTe embark from the Barbican at Sutton Pool, and proceed along the harbour of Catwater, between the Quarries of Catdown on the left, and Oreston, &c. on the right, passing under the Lary Bridge, and landing at the water lodge, which will be observed, embowered in foliage, at a considerable distance up, on the right hand side of the Estuary. Should walking be preferred, the pedestrian will cross the mouth of Sutton Pool at the Barbican and inquire his way towards Lary Bridge over Catdown, from the elevation of which are pleasing prospects of Mount
i 3
126 stranger's guide.
Edgcumbe, Plymouth Citadel, the Sound, and the country on the opposite side of Catwater, whose entrance, it will be observed is distinguished by Mount Batten and its circular watch tower, erected to defend the harbour, and the scene of much bloodshed during the civil wars. It is now used by the harbour-master as a look-out station, and has a flag-staff erected for the purpose of making signals to notify the appearance of vessels in the offing. A path across the isthmus which connects Mount Batten with the main land leads to Turnchapel, the dock-yard at which place is the property of the Earl of Morley, and is far superior to any in the port, having been used for the construction and repair of ships of war. The Armada, of 74 guns, was launched from this yard in 1810, and the Clarence, 74, at a later period.
Extending eastward from Mount ^Batten are the villages of Turnchapel, Hooe, and Oreston, with the several charming residences of Bellevue, (Mrs. Bulteel.) — Radford, (J. Harris, Esq.) — Thorn Cottage, (C. Harris, Esq.), and others, in the parish of Plymstock. The village of Plymstock is in the unseen rear. In its church are an elaborately carved screen of gold and coloured tracery, and several monuments of the family of Harris, of Radford, and others recording the names of Bulteel, Bellamy, &c.
Oreston quarries supply the stone for the Breakwater. The rock will bear a fine polish, and being beautifully veined, is used for chimney-pieces, tables, and many ornamental purposes. The ground, containing twenty- five acres, was purchased from the Duke of Bedford, the lord of the manor of Plymstock, for ten thousand pounds. The quarries were opened on the 7th of August, 1812 ; and in proceeding with the work an extraordinary phenomenon was discovered in the very body of the marble rock. "At the depth of sixty feet from the summit, and twenty-five from the margin of the sea, a cavity or rather a nodule of clay was
SALTRAM, LA11Y BRIDGE, ETC. 127
discovered, about twenty-five feet long, and twelve square; in the midst of which were found numerous bones and teeth of the rhinoceros, wolf, deer, cow, horse, &c. in a more perfect state, and containing less animal matter in them than any fossil bones that had yet been dug out of rock or earth. It should seem from the very considerable quantity that has been collected, as if they had been brought here at different times since the first formation of the rock, by the beasts of prey which occasionally took possession of the cavern. This con- jecture is much strengthened by the shattered appearance of the ends of many of the bones, which seem as if they had been gnawed and broken by the teeth of some animal. But as to their being antediluvian or not, or to what period of the world they might be assigned, must be left to those who are better informed to determine."
The Lary Bridge
will now claim the earnest attention of every person of taste or science. On a block of granite, at the northern extremity, is the following inscription : —
HUNC PONTEM
SENATUS AUCTORITATE SUSCEPTUM
NOVAS ET COMMODAS VIAS
RECLUDENTUM
JOHANNES COMES DE MORLEY
SUIS SUMPT1BLTS
STRUENDUM CURAVIT.
OPUS INCHOATUM A.D. 1824.
ABSOLUTUM A.D. 1827.
J. M. RENDEL, ARCHITECTO.
The Bridge is 500 feet in length between the abut- ments, and the curve of the road is formed by a radius of 4670 feet. Its elevation exhibits five arches of cast-iron — the central 100 feet span, rising 14 feet 6 inches above high- water mark. Those next on either side are 95 feet each, and rise 1 3 feet 3 inches. The extreme arches are 8 1
128 stranger's guide.
feet, and rise 10, giving the road-way, which is 25 feet in width, a gentle curve. Owing to the great depth of the loose sandy bed of the Lary, and the rapidity of the tide, much care was necessary in preparing and preser- ving the foundations, which were laid from 5 to 6 feet below the level of the river. As a protection against land-floods, &c. an artificial bottoming, composed of materials which had been proved by experiment to con- solidate under water into a mass as indestructible as many indurated rocks, was laid quite across the river at the site of the bridge. Care was taken to keep this bottom- ing, which was placed at a late period of the work, below the natural bed of the river, and complete success has attended all the operations, as is proved by the fact, that not the least settlement has taken place.
The more peculiar features of this Bridge are as follow : viz. — The elliptical form of the arches, which is continuous with the curve of the abutments, instead of the usual angular union between segmental arches and upright piers : — Secondly, the termination of the stone piers, at the springing of the arches, whereby the connexion of the iron superstructure is uninterruptedly preserved.
For further particulars connected with this elegant structure, which does equal honour to the taste and science of its architect, Mr. Rendel, see " Transactions of the Plymouth Institution :v vol. 1. art. 3.
Crossing the Bridge, we turn immediately to the left and enter Chelson Meadow through a lodge gate. The rectilinear embaukment stretching across to the second gate is 2910 feet in length. The flat meadow on the right (comprising 175 acres of rich land) was recovered, by means of this embankment, from the waters which formerly constituted Chelson Bay. This important measure was effected by the present Earl of Morley, who received, in consequence, a gold medal from the Society of Arts.
On this meadow the Plymouth Races are held. The Stand is seen at some distance on the right.
SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, ETC. 129
Leaving the race ground, the visitor will enter through a second gate the Saltram grounds. The road directly on by the water's side communicates with the old London road at Long Bridge : the branch road on the right conducts to the house.
Saltram House,
erected early in th^last century by Lady Catherine Parker, is a spacious edifice in the Palladian style of architecture, and has been much improved by the pre- sent Earl of Morley, aided by the professional taste of Mr. Foulstone. It contains a noble range of apartments, among which the Great Saloon, conspicuous for scale and splendour, exhibits a ceiling painted by Zucchi. The dining-room ceiling and walls are also painted by the same artist, and the drawing-room, library, and staircase are of a truly palatial character. A catalogue of the pictures which enrich these several apartments is published, and may be had at the house, or from Mr. Nettleton, the publisher of this work. We there- fore deem it unnecessary to make little more than a general allusion to the fact, that many of the first masters of ancient and modern times are here represented. The leading feature of the grand Saloon, is a large Baccha- nalian subject by Titian ; and in the same apartment are choice pictures by Guerchino, Rubens, Vandyke, Paul Veronese, and two views by Canaletti, (one representing part of the Doge's Palace, and the other the entrance into the arsenal of Venice) which have more than the usual great merit of their celebrated author. There is a mellow grandeur in their colouring, which gives them a charm apart from that of their architectural character, and renders them worthy of a visit on their own distinct merits. The staircase is distinguished by a noble picture of "The Assumption" by Sabbatini, and with several paintings by Angelica Kauffman. The library is en- riched with an interesting series of portraits by Reynolds ;
130 stranger's guide.
and the drawing-room manifests the artistical accomplish- ments of the Countess of Morley, whose copies from the Flemish and other masters are remarkable for their feeling and fidelity. In addition to the names already mentioned, the catalogue exhibits those of M. A. Cam- pidoglio, Bassano, Guido, Lingelback, Domenichino, Sassoferrato, Karel du Jardin, Vandervelde, Poussin, Salvator, Borgognone, Jordaens, Orizonti, Teniers, Palamedes, Caravaggio, (whose picture of the " Tribute Money " will claim especial regard) Mile, Dalens, Both, Weenix, Albano, Wouverman, Hoet, Caracci, Breughel, Fyt, Elsheimer, Lutherbourgh, Scalkin, Polidore, Bril, Mengs, Baroccio, Jansen, Meulen, Carlo Dolce, Coreggio, A. Del Sarto, Berghem, Cyp, Artois, Ricchardelli, Vanuden, Panini, Swanevelt, Beek, Mor- land, Roos, Sneyders, Kneller, Northcote, Tomkins, Phillips, Stuart, Johns, Barker, Rogers, Garvey, &c. &c. &c. If another picture may be particularised, we would most pointedly refer to the " Methodist Meeting,'* by Egbert Hemskerk, and worthy of Hogarth himself. The busts and sculpture of the collection greatly add to its value.
The pleasure gardens are suited to the house ; and, as one of the more remarkable objects in the surrounding grounds, we may mention the picturesque skreen of three lofty arches, which forms so singular and pleasing a picture when viewed from the high road on the opposite side of the estuary.
A road behind the house leads to the lodge at New Bridge, whence the old London road passes onward to Ridgway. New Bridge is at this time being re-edified, the old bridge having been not less remarkable for its inconvenience than for its picturesque character. Here the river Plym joins the salt waters of the Lary estuary. Nearer Plymouth are the fir-clad rocks of Crabtree, bearing on their summit the remains of a fort. At the base of the rock is the cottage retreat of D. Derry, Esq. A short distance nearer Plymouth we enter a
SALTRAM, LARl BRIDGE, ETC. 131
new road, occupying part of the land recovered from the Lary waters by the lofty mole which extends from gate to gate, and which, ha\ingbeen constructed by the Plymouth Embankment Company, was opened to the public on the 25th October, 1809. Here will be noticed the neat cottage dwellings of Lara Green. Further inland are the residences of E. Clarke, Esq. and G. Soltau, Esq. and the village of Lipson, through which passes the old Plymouth road. Still nearer Plymouth, above and below the old road, are Woodside ; Tothill ; Beaumont House, the residence of T. Bewes. Esq. M.P. ; and Green Bank, belonging to C. Tolcher, Esq. a zealous patron of the Arts, and the possessor, among other riches, of two remarkably fine pictures by Claude.
A few additional notes are subjoined, descriptive of the country beyond Sal tram. Boringdon is situate at some distance north of the old London road. The house was the family mansion of the Earl of Morley's ancestors, before the building of Saltram, and though now occupied as a farm-house, still retains indication of its ancient importance.
Near Boringdon Park are Elfordleigh, (the mansion of W. Langmead, Esq.) and Newnham Park, an ancient seat of the Strode family. The other leading residences of the vicinity, are Hemerdon, (G. Woollcombe, Esq.) — Goodamoor, (P. T. Treby, Esq.)— Beechwood, (R. Rosdew, Esq.) — Chaddlewood, (W. H. Symons, Esq.) &c.
The most prominent object on the London road, after leaving Saltram at New Bridge, is the church of Plympton St. Mary, distinguished by a fair degree of architectural beauty, aud not less by the condition of cleanliness and good repair, for which it is indebted to the zealous curatorship of its present minister, the Rev. W. J. Coppard. It was originally the conventual
132 straxNGer's glide.
church of Plympton Priory,* founded in the year 1100, and acknowledged as the richest monastery in Devonshire. Its architectural style is the perpendicular Gothic, which prevailed from 1350 to 1450. This church in its widest part exhibits the unusual number of five aisles, making a transverse extent of 90 feet. The building wants altitude; but otherwise there is much to admire, par- ricularly the tower, which contains six fine bells. The most beautiful feature of the interior is the monument of Richard Stode, Esq. comprising an effigy, recumbent upon a richly sculptured base, and beneath a triple- arched canopy of bold design. " About 25 years ago, an ancient stone pulpit, panelled and carved, stood in the nave ; it was affixed to the second pier from the chancel, on the north side. Spiral stone steps led up to it, and it stood upon a stone pedestal. At that time the church was new seated, and it was thought necessary to alter the position of the pulpit, which was taken down broken to pieces and put under the sleepers of the flooring of the new pews ! A plain painted deal one now stands in the nave, somewhat nearer the chancel. " " So much," says Mr. Coppard, "for leaving the repairs of churches to the management of church- wardens, whose irreparable mischief among some of the most interesting features of our sacred edifices, we have daily reason to deplore ! I have much satisfaction in stating, that owing to the judicious exertions of the respected archdeacon of Totnes (Mr. Froude), a con- siderable improvement is manifest in most of the churches of this district ; and it is to be hoped that a different tone of feeling has been given to some of those who may be intrusted with future repairs. Yet it is to be feared, that in the annual changes of these officers, very few of them are capable of the undertaking ; there- fore might it not be advisable to appoint some person of
* Some vestiges of Plympton Priory may still be traced adjoining the church-yard, where a dwelling-house and a mill are now called Priory,
SALTRAM, LART bridge, etc. 133
experience and judgment to superintend a certain num- ber of churches in a district, for the purpose of better carrying into effect the orders of the rural Dean, (where one is nominated) or to direct the repairs and alterations to be done in a proper manner?"
Here are monuments recording the names of Symons, Ilayne, Woollcombe, &c. and an elegant piece of sculpture by De Laistre, a Parisian artist, to the memory of Henry Villiers Parker, Viscount Boringdon, the eldest son of Lord Morley by his first lady.
Beyond Plympton Mary Church is the village of Ridge way ; to the north, the village of Colebrook ; and to the south, the village of Underwood.
Adjoining Plympton Mary is the ancient Borough of Plympton, a stannary town, distinguished by its artificial mount, the remains of a castle, and the pride of having given birth to Sir Joshua Reynolds, whose father was master of Plympton grammar school. The school- building, with its gothic gables and sub-piazza will attract attention. In the Guildhall ^inscribed with the date of 1696), is a portrait of Reynolds by himself, and several ancestral portraits of the Treby family.
The large square mansion east of the town, was built in 1718 by the Right Honourable George Treby, secretary at war. It still belongs to the family. There is nothiug worthy of observation in the church.
134
HAIL ROAD, BICKLEIGH VALE, AND DEWERSTONE.
It is only on horseback, or on foot, that the scenes hereafter mentioned can be comfortably seen in continuous succession. The several principal objects may be sepa- rately visited in a carriage, or rail-road waggon ; but to all horsemen the author recommends as follows : —
Proceed to Crabtree. Follow the rail-road (see page 32) till you arrive at the arched entrance into the
Tunnel,
through which the eye pierces a subterranean length of 1860 feet. Take the road to the left of the opening, and follow the ascent and descent of the hill, till you again reach the rail-road at the other extremity of the Tunnel. Follow on through the woods, which will shortly open on your right and discover a pleasing prospect, including glimpses of the river Plym far below, and the tree-clad hill of Saltram, &c. in the distance. Having here paused awhile, make reasonable use of whip or spur, until your natural admiration for scenic splendour shall instantly prompt you to draw in your reins : —
Cann Quarry is before you !
With what justice this scene is deemed magnificent, the spectator is left to say. The Plym is seen in the profound below, and the fall of its salmon-weir distinctly heard. Broad masses of precipitous slate-rock are mingled with richly wooded acclivities ; and folding hills of green, backed by the barren heights of Dartmoor, complete the distant prospect.
The rail-road should then be followed until you reach Fancy at the most recessed point of a " woody theatre/7
RAIL ROAD, RICKLEIGII VALE, ETC. 135
the opening perspective of which is finely commanded from the house, seen a short distance up the hill on the left. Instead of proceeding further along the rail-road, the stranger is recommended to descend through the gate, immediately opposite Fancy, and follow the road to the bed of the valley ; then turning to the left, he will thread the leafy mazes of the Plym, flowing past him on his right, until he arrive at Bickleigh Bridge, where he will quit, for a time, the river, and proceed along a rough and hilly road towards Shaugh. Close to Bickleigh Bridge he will find a road on the left, leading to Bickleigh Village and Church. The latter contains the monument and martial paraphernalia of Sir Nicholas Slanning, a royalist warrior. Here also are monuments recording the names of Heywood, Hunt, and Lopes.
The traveller will at length descend into an open flat distinguished by venerable trees, and large masses of granite, scattered, as by some vast deluge, over its surface. Crossing this, he will put up his horse at the cottage and pause awhile upon Shaugh Bridge, where
" The Cad o'er rocks white flashing roars To meet the lucid Plym."
The union of the rivers is seen close to the bridge, from which the pyramidal Dewerstone rises, clothed in foliage. This is unquestionably a choice specimen of that rock and torrent scenery, for which Devonshire is so highly celebrated. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor should follow the road for about a quarter of a mile up the steep hill towards Shaugh church, and then turning off to the left, he will "plod his way" through bushes and granite blocks till, on reaching the brow of the descent, his admiring eye suddenly alights on the perpendicular mass of
Dewerstone,
raising its crest of granite to a noble altitude above the rushing torrent of the Cad, and exhibiting the most
136 stranger's guide.
striking contrasts of rocky baldness and richest verdure. At no great distance is Shaugh church, with a tower of hewn granite, surmounted with pinnacles. From the hill on which the church is situated the view is varied, extensive, and interesting, bounded by Plymouth Sound to the south.
Having remounted his horse, the traveller proceeds homewards on the eastern side of the river Plym, ascending Shaugh hill, and passing along the brow of Bickleigh vale into Shaugh wood, through which he descends again to the river level. From hence, passing through Cann Quarry,* which formed so striking an object as he traversed the opposite heights on his out- ward journey, he soon after reaches the yet unexplored quarter of
Fiym-bridge,
where the vale suddenly expands from extreme narrow- ness into an open amphitheatre of wood and meadow. Jn this charming vicinity are the mansions of Leighum and Estover. A road through the meadows, on the eastern side of the Plym, conducts to a wood, and our traveller ultimately emerges from these regions of pastoral romance at New Bridge, on the high road, about 3 miles from Plymouth.
* This noted Slate Quarry is now being worked upon an extended scale. The material it affords is of a most approved quality, and worthy of that increasing favour which it is so generally obtaining.
K 2
13?
KITLEY, THE YEALM, &c.
On the peninsular tract between the mouth of the Ply in and the estuary of the Yealm, and south of the new line of road from the Lary Bridge to Totnes, are Langdon Hall, the seat of C. Calmady, Esq. ; Wembury House, belonging to Sir E. Thornton ; the cottage residence of Thomas Lockyer, Esq. occupying an enchanting situation on the western acclivity of the Yealm ; and Coffleet, (the mansion of the Rev. R. Lane,) also situated on the bank of this beautiful river.
Kitley,
however, is the great "Lion" of the neighbourhood; important from the architectural character of the house, and from the extreme beauty of the grounds. The latter extend to a considerable distance north and south of the new London road, under which there is a tunnel to preserve the thoroughfare. The southern portion of the grounds project into the here expanded waters of the Yealm estuary, which has all the appearance of an inland lake. The northern division furnishes a delightful drive, extending nearly two miles from the house. The latter has been for the most part rebuilt by the present tasteful proprietor, E. P. Bastard, Esq. who has thus afforded a choice opportunity for the display of Mr. G. S. Repton's architectural talents. The exterior exhibits four, differing, but self-uniform fronts, in the true Elizabethan style. The hall, staircase, drawing-room, and library, are the more distinguished apartments ; and, in the saloon are some exquisite family portraits by Reynolds. The old masters are also represented by several choice examples.
k 3
138 stranger's guide.
South of Kitley, separated from it by an arm of the river, is Puslinch, the residence of the Rev. J. Yonge, participating in the scenic beauties of the spot last mentioned ; and in the more southern vicinity is the secluded water-village of Newton Ferrers, the hamlet of Noss, and Membland House, the seat of J. Robertson, Esq.
Before reaching Kitley, the high road passes through the truly rustic village of Brixton, in the church of which are several monuments to the Lanes, Woods, &c. Near the church is the neat and commodious residence of Henry Collins-Splatt, Esq. On the same road, beyond Kitley, is the village of Yealmpton looking down upon its church, to the south of which, is a quarried lime-stone rock, enclosing a " cavern of extra- ordinary extent." Tradition speaks of Ethelwold's palace at Yealmpton. The church contains monuments to the families of Crocker, Pollexfen, Copplestone, and Bastard. Yealm Bridge, (with its paper-mill) further east, will not fail to attract the notice of an artist's eye, at least. North of the road between this and Brixton, are Hareston and Lyneham, (belonging respectively to the families of Winter and Bulteel,) whose opposing woods line a secluded valley, watered by a branch stream of the Yealm. On the river between Yealmpton and Yealm Bridge is Torr, the residence of W. Holbe- ton, Esq. ; and, following the course of the river, we successively pass Lee-mill Bridge, on the upper Exeter road, Slade, Delamore, the village of Cornwood, and Blatchford, the seat of Sir J. L. Rogers, Bart.
139
THE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, cVc.
Our remarks upon the Yealm have brought us the major part of the way between the Lary Bridge and Ermington, where the visitor's attention will be imme- diately drawn to the neat and cheerful appearance of the Fawn Inn. Independently of the good accommo- dation it affords, the main reason for recommending it, is its very eligible situation as being central amid the beauties of the Yealm. Ivy-bridge is unquestionably the more striking position of the two ; and, for a sojourn of any duration, it is more fitly to be recommended : but, desiring the satisfaction of those whose time is limited, we mention Ermington, as being mid-way between two extremities on the river's course that should be visited.
Ermington church, conspicuously situated at a short distance north of the Hotel and Bridge, is the more remarkable from its leaning spire. Within is a hand- some recessed monument elaborately sculptured, with a brass effigy of one of the Stretchleigh family. Here are also memorials of the Sweetes, Geach, &c.
Following the river (along its western bank) towards the sea, we pass through several pleasing meadows, until we pause to contemplate the scenic beauties of Sequels Bridge, over which passes the road to Mod- bury,* about 2 miles to the east. South-west of the Bridge, on a richly wooded eminence, is the mansion of Fleet, the principal seat of the Bulteel family, and pre-eminently distinguished by the charm of its situation,
* A small market town, with a spacious church. Its spire is 134 feet high. Within is an interesting monument to one of the Champernowne family. Adjoining the church is an ancient chapel or chantry, which is now appropriated to the use of the grammar-school.
140 STRANGER'S GUIDE.
and the tasteful character of its pleasure grounds. The front seen from the Bridge, is a simple specimen of the Adam-school of architecture, now, happily, no more : but the entrance front, concealed from distant view by a charmingly disposed shrubbery, may be justly quoted as a fascinating example of the Tudoric style. From the eastern front the grounds decline to the river, which flows on in vallied seclusion, and is at length crossed by a wooden bridge. Here is an entrance into the woods on the east side of the Erme, along which (with Mr. Bulteel's kind permission) we will make a temporary retreat, following the embowered path until it bring us to the Hermitage, which, taken in conjunction with the poetic gloom of its situation close to the river below, is a " bit " not to be overlooked. Returning to the wooden bridge, we proceed onwards by a pleasant path, till the river expands into an estuary, and subsequently dis- charges its collected waters through Mothecombe harbour into Bigbury Bay, about 5 miles S.S.W. of Ermington. About a mile S.W. of Fleet house is Holbeton, in the church of which are monuments, recording the names of Perring and Bulteel; also an old monument with the hgure of an armed knight, and numerous effigies. South of Holbeton is Mothecombe house and hamlet. From a clifT on the western side of Mothecombe harbour projects a peninsula of many acres, called Mothecombe- back, consisting of an accumulation of sand and gravel, which has resisted the force of the waters from time immemorial, and has a fair annually held on it.
The walk by the river from Ermington to Ivy-bridge, (about three miles), may be regarded as a portfolio of charming sketches, illustrating the genuine beauties of our river scenery, premising, that, until we arrive at Ivy-bridge, the merely " beautiful," apart from grandeur, is to be expected.
I HE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, ETC. 141
Ivy-bridge,
on the upper London road, is distant from Plymouth 12 miles. The village is of more than common size and respectability, owing to the convenience of its situa- tion, the salubrity of its air, and the attractive character of the rocks, woods, and torrent, which distinguish its immediate and north-extending vicinity. Here are an excellent Hotel, and numerous lodging-houses. A new bridge has lately been erected for the convenience of the stage coach ; but the veritable Ivy-bridge is still preserved for the lovers of the picturesque. It is the province of this work rather to direct the attention, than to rouse by verbal stimulus the enthusiasm of the tourist; and, if the powerful flood of old Erme's eloquence, graced with all the poetry of rock and foliage,
' can't move the heart,
Tongues surely may be dumb.'3
It need hardly be said, that the grandeur of the scene is much enhanced by preceding heavy rains ; though the place is unquestionably well worth seeing at ail times. The visitor is particularly urged to follow the northern course of the river, through the woods of its western bank. New combinations of the same romantic features will successively arise to induce him onward. Harford Bridge crosses the torrent about 2§ miles above Ivy-bridge, whence a road conducts over a common to Three Barrow Tor ; " a lofty elevation," says Mr. Rowe, u so named from three huge barrows, or karns, on its summit — supposed, from their vast size, to mark the tomb of some eminent warrior. Having inspected these tumuli with the attention they will not fail to excite as mementos of remote antiquity, we shall have leisure to enjoy the boundless landscape which this eminence commands : from Portland in Dorsetshire to the Lizard in Cornwall, and from the Blackdown hills in Somerset- shire to the skirts of Dartmoor on which we stand, we
142 stranger's guide.
behold a diversified scene, displaying in its extensive scope "the pomp of nature and the pride of man/' Behind, the lofty peaks, the rugged tors, and purple heaths of Dartmoor — in front, the whole South Hams, from the Teign to the Tamar, spreading like a map at our feet. The local beauties of the prospect are rich tracts of cultivated land, with verdent hedge-rows, villages, and " heaven-directed spires ; the winding estuary of the Yealm — the more capacious harbour of Plymouth Sound — the grove-crowned hill of Mount Edgcumbe — Plymouth indistinctly seen through its hazy atmosphere — and the azure expanse of the Channel majestically bounding the whole view to the south." The stranger will now return to Harford church, in which is an old altar tomb with a brass effigy, to T. Williams, Esq. 1564.; also a wooden memorial to Bishop Prideaux. Following the eastern bank of the river, he passes the parsonage at Lukesland Grove, and returns by Stowford to Ivy-bridge,
143
EXCURSION TO TREMATON CASTLE,
.\ N D
PORT ELIOT.
Take a boat at North-corner, Devoiiport. In pro- ceeding up Hamoaze, the naval power of Great Britain will be palpably illustrated, by the vast assemblage of ships of war lying up " iu ordinary." Opposite Morice- town is Thanckes, the residence of Lord Graves, looking over a lawn which declines to the water's edge. Above Morice-town are the government Powder Magazines ; and, beyond, the estuary of Keyham lake. Above Thanckes is the marine village of Wilcove, situate at the head of an inlet, and "a favourite retreat of naval officers." In "doubling the cape" north of Wilcove, we catch a glimpse of Saltash and the Tamar's inland course, and pass by Beggar's Island, (a presumed retreat of the notorious Bampfylde Moore Carew, king of the beggars) into the mouth of the river Lynher.
Ward-house commands, from its lofty site above the confluence of the two rivers, a prospect of vast variety. On the opposite bank of the Tamar, below Kinterbury, are the government gunpowder works. The town of Saltash is about a mile up the river, built on the steep acclivity rising therefrom. It possesses no object worthy of particular notice except its steam ferry or floating bridge, lately constructed by J. M. Rendel, Esq. engineer, (see page 95) A little beyond on the left is Anthony-house, belonging to the Rt. Hon. R. P. Carew, and much eulogised as it regards both mansion and grounds ; and the pictures contained in the former. An inlet opposite to Anthony-house leads up to
144 stranger's guide.
Trematon Castle,
a conspicuous object not less interesting as an historical monument, than as the leading feature in a scene of extraordinary beauty. The views both of and from the castle keep and mound aro alike exquisite. The erection of the fortress is by some ascribed to Robert, Earl of Morton and Cornwall, who lived A.D. 1440. The area of the site includes rather more than an acre, surrounded by embattled walls six feet thick, of a circular form, and covered with ivy. The keep is at the north-west corner, on the summit of a conical mount. The walls of the keep are about ten feet thick, and rather more than thirty in height. This detached part of the fortress was anciently divided into apartments, and appears to have had a second floor, yet there is no appearance of windows ; so that the whole must have been lighted from the top, or by a small cavity in the centre. The entrance is at an arched door on the west, whence a winding path leads to a small sally-port. The most entire part of the buildings is the gateway, which consists of three strong arches, between which are grooves for the port-cullises. These arches support a square tower, containing an apartment, now converted into a museum for natural curiosities. The walls are covered with tapestry, of the most exquisite workmanship and beauty, and supposed to be the most valuable, and in the best preservation, of any in the
kingdom. In the house, the residence of Tucker,
Esq. are some valuable paintings, a curious organ, and a variety of curiosities. Pursuing the course of the Lynher, the groves of Shillingham form a pleasing feature on its banks. Ince castle, the seat of Edward Smith, Esq. is a square edifice with embattled walls and towers, romantically situated on a peninsula projecting from the northern bank. Having passed Ince, we con- tinue our voyage through the widest part of the Lynher,
PORT ELIOT. 145
till we reach the promontory of Earth. After doubling this point the channel is considerably narrowed, and shortly after leaving what is properly denominated the course of the Lynher, we proceed along the western branch of the estuary to St. Germans, and disembark at a picturesque landing-place beneath the finely- wooded cliffs of
Fort Eliot.
In addition to the scenic charms of this justly noted spot, are those of its two contiguous buddings, the church and mansion- The former derives great interest from having been once the Cathedral of the Western Diocese. It is said to have been built by Athelstan, who dedicated it to St. Germain, bishop of Auxerre, in France, which prelate, with Lupus, bishop of Troy, came into Britain in the year 429, for the pur- pose of extirpating the Pelagian heresy. On the re- moval of the episcopal dignity to Exeter, the manor was divided between the bishop and the prior of the convent at St. Germans ; and at the dissolution of the monasteries the church became parochial. The external appearance of the church is singular; but the visitor will observe, that both towers were once octagonal. The entrance door-way, as among the very choicest specimens of existing Norman architecture, merits particular attention. Within the church is a costly altar tomb, by Rysbrack, to the memory of Edward Eliot, Esq. who died 1722. The deceased is represented on a couch, in the Roman costume ; in front, his lady is seated in the attitude of contemplative sorrow ; and the whole is adorned with figures of cherubims and sur- mounted by the family arms. Here are also monuments of the Glanvill, Trevanion, and Movie families. In the south aisle is a low ornamented recess, supposed to have contained the effigy of an abbot. Another recess is called 'the bishop's throne ;' and among other rem- nants of antiquity preserved in the old tower, is a L
146 stranger's guide.
curious oak chair. The altar, formed of oak, and of fine workmanship, was the splendid donation of the Eliots ; as was also the marble font. An inscription on the gallery at the west end, records the names of the bishops of the see. The original burial ground, no longer used for a cemetery, is converted into a lawn, separating the church from Port Eliot 'house ; and being in a mild and sheltered situation, the vegetation of the shrubbery and gardens attains a great degree of luxuriance. Port Eliot house is partly modern, and partly formed by the remains of the old Priory. The dining-room was formerly the monk's refectory. In the various apartments are select pictures by the best masters, old and modern. The recent additions to the house have been made by the present noble proprietor the Earl St. Germans.
The scenery at Notter Bridge, N.E. of St. Germans, is accounted romantic. As an object for observation on the voyager's return, we may particularize the woods of Sheviock opposite Earth farm, through which there is a direct way to Sheviock church, built in the 14th century by the Dawnay family. The monuments are unusually interesting. Among them are the effigies of Sir Edward Dawnay, and his Lady ; the figure of an armed knight with a lion at his feet, &c.
As a postscript to this excursion, we may mention, that St. Germans may betaken in the way from Devon- port to Liskeard, diverging from the high road at Trebow mill. Much of the Liskeard road is beautiful, varied as it is with numerous views of the Lynher river and its branches. Liskeard, about i 7 miles from Tor- point, is a small town with an excellent inn, a good market and respectable neighbourhood. The Eliza- bethan residence, north of the town, has been recently erected by W. Glencross, Esq , from designs by the author.
South of Liskeard is the small sea port of Looe, which, according to Hitchins and Drew " taken in con-
ST. neot's, etc. 147
nection with its river, bridge, and town, on each side of the creek, its steep acclivities, winding vales, towering hills, and pendant gardens, its island rising from the sea, and the waves that break upon its shores, exhibits, perhaps, within a narrow compass, one of the most picturesque and captivating scenes that the shores of Cornwall can present."
St. Neots, a few miles N.W. of Liskeard, is said to derive its name from Neotus, the brother of Alfred the great, who died here at the latter part of the 8th century, and was removed to St. Neots, in Huntingdon, where he also left his name. The church was formerly dedicated to St. Guerir, and it is said, that Alfred being sick, prostrated himself in prayer before the altar of the saint, and was restored. It is an interesting structure, more particularly remarkable for its painted windows, which have lately been perfectly restored, and are accurately delineated in a quarto volume recently published.
One window exhibits the history of the creation, with a label, in gothic letters, to each representation ; another describes the deluge ; a third the legend of St. George ; a fourth a series of representations from the legendary history of St. Neot. The others appear to have been embellished with figures of the saints.
L 2
148
EXCURSION TO TAVISTOCK, &c.
Tavistock, by the high road, is only 15 miles north of Plymouth : but the stranger is recommended to proceed by the irregular and circuitous route hereafter laid down, and which will occupy him the whole day. He will then sleep at Tavistock, either one, two, or three nights, as time will allow ; understanding that this town is the centre of a neighbourhood particularly distinguished by objects of pictorial beauty or historic interest.
Whether from Plymouth or Devonport, the traveller should proceed along the Saltash road (which will open to him several views of the Tamar, and town of Saltash) until he descend to the turnpike at Weston Mill, a rural seclusion of too genuine character to escape his notice. Asceiiding thence, he will journey onward through the cottage settlement of King's Tamerton, whence he catches a glimpse of the river Lynher branching west- ward from the distant Tamar. While this is writing a new line of road from Plymouth and Devonport to Saltash is in progress. (See page 97.)
The loftily situated village of St. Budeaux claims parti- cular remark. From the high ground, east and west of the Church, is seen a prospect of singular extent and mag- nificence, including a broad expanse of the Tamar, which here assumes the character of a noble lake. At St. Budeaux, the traveller will inquire his readiest way to Tamerton Foliot. This village contains a number of very excellent houses, inhabited by genteel families, who have displayed their taste in selecting, as a place of residence, one of the most beautiful villages in Devonshire. The church is a neat edifice. In the north aisle is a monument to the memory of John Copleston, Esq. and Susanna his wife, with their effigies in rich attire. Near the above is a sumptuous monument, of various kinds of marble, to Copleston Bampfylde, who died at an early
ST. BUDEAUX, BUCKLaND ABBEY, ETC. 149
age : he is represented as engaged in study, and below are elaborate inscriptions, in Latin and Greek, perpetuating his talents and virtues. An elegant monument of white marble, surmounted by a sepulchral lamp, is inscribed to the Radcliffes, ancestors of the Rev. Walter Radcliffe, of Warleigh. Maristow, the charming seat of Sir Ralph Lopes, Bart, is situate at the inner extremity of the Tavy estuary — at the mouth of this estuary is Warleigh House. Further up the estuary is the church of Beer Ferrers, containing several interesting monumen- tal effigies. This neighbourhood is celebrated for its lead mines, its strawberry gardens and cherry orchards. It were gratuitous to call attention to the beauties of Maristow. The house is observed on the right, in an extensive lawn declining gently to the banks of the river : the principal entrance, between two wings, commands the estuary and the lofty ridges on the Beer side of the Tavy, finely clothed in thick wood. The house is spacious and elegant. A domestic chapel, neatly fitted up, is attached, where service is occasionally per- formed by the officiating minister of Bickleigh. The walks through the grounds extend to a considerable distance, affording at many different points interesting prospects over a bold and woody tract : the tide has been driven back from a considerable portion ofland at the foot of the lawn, by means of an embankment.
Close to Maristow is the small village of Lophill, with its mill, and other rustic accompaniments. Beyond is the romantic village of Milton, and further on Buckland Abbey, one of the seats of the Drake family. The manor was originally dedicated to the emolument of the church by the Countess of Baldwin de Rivers, Earl of Devon; and in the year 1298, a fraternity of Cistercian monks was transplanted from the Isle of Wight to the convent at this spot; the revenues of which were large. This valuable domain was pur- chased in the reign of Elizabeth, by the great Sir Francis Drake, and has remained in the possession of his
150 stranger's guide.
descendants to the present time. The house has under- gone various alterations, but sufficient remnants of antiquity exist to make it an object of interest. The principal front towards the north is surmounted by a square massive-looking tower. The hall, now used as a billiard-room, has a handsome mosaic floor ; the pannels and ceiling are sculptured with a variety of devices. Here are preserved a number of family portraits, and the sword and buckler of Sir Francis Drake ; in the other apartments are the drum used by that commander in his warlike expeditions, and the folio black-letter bible, which proved his best companion in the voyage round the world. Extensive vestiges of former buildings attest the ancient magnificence of the abbey , but the most perfect remnant of the former edifice is a turret in the court-yard, battlemented, but now roofed in and used as a pigeon- house. A pleasing walk through the grounds conducts to the salmon weir on the Tavy, amidst wood and river prospects of the most picturesque and imposing character. A narrow road leads from the Abbey to the village of Buckland Monachorum, pleasantly situated amidst orchards, hedges, and trees. The church is a handsome structure, with a lofty tower, turrets, and pinnacles. The interior contains several monuments, particularly of the Heathfields and Drakes ; but our attention will be chiefly directed to one beautifully executed in marble, by Bacon, to the memory of George Augustus Eliot, Baron Heathfield of Gibraltar, general of his majesty's forces, and governor of Gibraltar. He died in 1790, aged seventy-two. The history of his heroic defence of the important fortress which he commanded is known to the whole world, and some of the circumstances are detailed in four bas reliefs on the monument. The other embellishments are Britannia, with the gate of a fortress, inscribed, plus ultra ; a child, with a key, a palm branch, and a shield ; and above, a medallion portrait of the deceased general. Half-a-mile west of Buckland, the traveller will wind round a steep descent
MORWELL ROCKS, ETC. 151
to Denham Bridge, which here crosses the Tavy in, perhaps, its most romantic passage. Both above and below the Bridge the scenery is, for a considerable, distance, singularly beautiful Hatch Mill and the " Virtuous Lady n Mine are noted objects on its course, north of the bridge. Ascending the western steep, the traveller will proceed onwards, bearing always to the right until he reach Morwell Down. This he will cross in a N.VV. direction, and reach Morwell House, now a farm, but originally the hunting seat of the monks of Tavistock. Here he may put up his horse and walk on foot throngh the field to a small wood, whence he will suddenly emerge upon the dizzy platform of a perpendicular crag, and, if we mistake not, at the same moment rapturously exclaim,
"Sublime and beautiful !" Far below winds the Tamar, encircling the domain of Harewood, (the seat of SirSalisburyTrelawny, Bart. M. P.) beyond which is Calstock church. In the front distance is Hingston Down. Above, below, around, and extend- ing far onwards, are the fearful rocks of Morwell, intermingled with underwood, and impressing with admiration even those who may have traversed the Alpine pass.
At the base of the rocks is Morwellham New Quay, where there is a small but respectable inn, affording good accommodation of every kind. Vessels of some burden navigate the Tamar thus far, and, together with the rail waggons, water wheels and mining machinery, give much interest and animation to the scene. Behind is an excavated way leading to the foot of an inclined plane, 240 feet high, by which a communication is effected between the river below and the Tavistock canal above. The latter is carried through a tunnel extending near two miles under Morwell Down !* At
* This great undertaking was commenced in 1803, and after the incessant labour of fourteen years, was completed in 1817.
152 stranger's guide.
some distance beyond the Quay, is Weir Head, where a fall of the river impedes further navigation, and gives added beauty to a scene, otherwise most beautiful. Still further up is " New Bridge," clad in the ivied garb of age, highly picturesque as an object, and serviceable as part of the high road between Tavistock and Callington, in Cornwall. It may here be stated, that the prospect of Morwell rocks from the Cornish side of the Tamar is singularly fine.
Tavistock lies about five miles N.E. of Morwellham ; and, anticipating the fatigue of the traveller, we leave him to find his way there as best he may, and to gain by a night's repose, fresh strength for the morrow. Should it be agreeable to remain at Morwellham, a favourable opportunity is thereby afforded of seeing that beautiful portion of the Tamar between the Weir head and Pentilly, including Cotehele woods and house, (see page 168 J
Tavistock,
(situated on the Tavy, 15 miles from Plymouth, the property of the Duke of Bedford, to whose eldest son it gives the title of Marquis,) is attractive to the tourist on account of its beautiful and interesting vicinity, and as containing the remains of a celebrated abbey, founded in 961. The gate house is still extant, and several complete buildings near it. At the back of the Bedford Hotel are also many interesting fragments, testifying the original beauty and extent of the Abbey. Of the con- ventual church nothing remains, except an arched fragment in the church yard. The church, dedicated to St. Eustachius, contains a handsome orgau, and monu- ments to Sir J. Fitz, and Judge Glanville : also some human bones of extraordinary size, which were found in a stone coffin dug out of the ruins of the abbey, supposed to be the remains of Adulph, who was described by William of Malmsbury as being of such gigantic stature that he could stride over rivers ten feet
TAVISTOCK, ETC, 153
wide ; arguing that the " rivers " in his time were small and the men large. Here are two picturesque bridges : the more eastern one forms part of a most beautiful picture when viewed from the walk below the Weir, or fall of the Tavy, at the back of the hotel. This river presents a truly imposing aspect, when, swollen by heavy rains, it rushes with savage fury over its bed of granite rocks.
The Bedford Motel presents an exterior of modern gothic example rarely to be met with in the smaller provincial towns. The ball room within is worthy of notice : nor must we omit stating, that Mr. Foulston has in Tavistock, as well as at Plymouth, given sterling proof of his professional accomplishments. The lecture room and library, occupying parts of the old abbey buildings, have been also renovated and fitted up by Mr. Foulston. The literary institution is zealously and liberally supported by the talents and subscriptions of the inhabitants, and is on the most friendly footing with the Athenaeum of Plymouth.*
* " Tavystoke," says Pvisdon, " is the chief place upon Tavye's banks, where, in the dayes of Edgar, the first un- resisted monarch of this lande, Orgarius, Earl of Devon, kept his court ; the echo of whose faire daugdter Elfleda's heauty sounded so loude in the king's ears, that it caused him to employ Ethelwald, his minion, to woo her in his behalfe, to be dignified with the title of a queene ; but, as sometyme it falleth out, there is falsehoode in fellowshipp, this Earle sued unto her for himselfe, and that with good liking of her father, so as the king would consent, unto whom he returned this answer, that ' the lady came farr short of such perfection as fame gave out, and in noe wise for feature fitt for a king ;' whereupon Edgar, mistrusting noe double dealing, soone con- sented, and Orgarius gave his daughter to Ethelwald in marriage ; after which her beauty was more liberally spoken of than before ; whereof king Edgar taking notice, came into Devonshire under colour of hunting to visit Duke Orgarius ; which being apprehended by Ethelwald, he discovered the truth to his lady, and earnestly besought her to save his life from the king's danger j but she, shewing herself a true
154 stranger's guide.
The principal " lions" in this neighbourhood are Endsleigh, and Lydford : but it must be understood, that the Dartmoor scenery diverging N.N.E. and S.E. of Tavistock, is replete with every variety between verdant luxuriance and stony barrenness. The course of the Tavy towards its source is particularly noted. Lydford is distant from Tavistock about five miles. Its distinguishing features are its torrent scenery and castle. Formerly important as a great tin mart, and as the place where the Stannary courts were held, its present insignificance becomes interesting as a curiosity. Ethelred II. had a mint at Lydford, some coins of which are still preserved. In the reign of the con- queror it sent members to parliament — it is now a miserable village of cottages, with a small church, and of its former state retaining only the ruins of its castle keep.
Proceeding from Tavistock over Heathfleld Down, the tourist arrives at the foot of Brent Tor, a conoidai rock of granite, crowned with its miniature church, and conspicuous as a land mark from all parts of the sur- rounding country. The church is said to have been erected as a grateful offering by some mariners, who, having escaped shipwreck, vowed to build a church upon this, the land mark, by which they were enabled safely to steer into Plymouth sound. The church (St. Michael's) is 37 feet long by 14 feet wide. On a tablet opposite the door is inscribed " Upon this rock will I build my church." A panoramic view from the summit will well repay the toil of ascent.
woman, desired nothing more than the thing forbidden, dressing herself with costlie ornaments to attend the coming of the king, whom, with an amiable grace, she entertained ; which so enflamed his desires that, palliating his affection for the present, he went forth an hunting, where, at a place called YVillverley, since Warlewood, the earle was found slaine with an arrow (as some will, others with a javelin), and shortly after king Edgar tooke fayre Elfleda for his queene."
LIDFORD, ETC. 155
Proceeding onwards, about 2 miles, the traveller arrives in the vicinity of a cascade, not so remarkable from its body of water, as from the depth of its fall, and the secluded and beautiful character of the scenery around. A guide will be necessary to conduct the visitor to the best point of observation, which is approach- able by a circuitous descent.
Regaining the road, he will proceed towards Lydford until he arrives within about a quarter of a mile S. of the village. A hollow murmuring, as of a caverned torrent awakens his attention, and increases in loudness until he arrives upon a small bridge of rough masonry, which, being hedged in on either side, would seem to span the superficial stream of a common brook, but for the mysterious noise beneath. He looks over the parapet, and indistinctly perceives through the thickly entwining foliage, the torrent of Lyd furiously rushing over the rugged bed of a narrow chasm eighty feet below ! Risdon, in describing the bridge, observes, " the river is here gathered into such a streight by the fretting of the earth between the rocks, that it seemeth to cavern itself as loath to see the desolation of the place. It maketh such an hideous noise, that being only heard and not seen, it causeth a kind of fear to the passengers, seeming to them that look down to it a deep abyss, and may be uumbered among the wonders of this kingdom."
This spot has been the scene of more than one suicide. Perhaps the most distressing instance is that of a poor man of the neighbouring village, who, being visited with tem- porary fits of insanity, contrived to elude the vigilance of his attendants, and leaping naked out of his chamber window, ran yelling down to the bridge, over the parapet of which he threw himself into the roaring abyss beneath. Another story exists of a gentleman, Captain Williams, of Exeter, who, being involved in pecuniary embarrass- ments, resolved on self-destruction, and fixed on Lydford bridge for the completion of his horrible purpose. On
156 stranger's guide.
his arrival at the bridge he endeavoured to make his horse leap over the parapet, which not being able to effect, he dismounted, threw his saddle into the yawning gulf, and then himself. An anecdote is also related of a London traveller, who, in passing the village during a very dark and inclement night, was much surprised by an unaccountable bound which his horse made in the middle of his career. At Tavistock he was informed that Lydford bridge had given way the night preceding, and then he recollected, with a shudder, that the strange leap which his horse had taken must have been across the bridgeless chasm.
Ascending from the bridge, the church is passed on the left, and the stranger, entering the once important borough of Lydford, proceeds to inspect all that is left of a castle, the history of which includes some anecdotes of cruelty, parallel with those of the " Bridge of Sighs " and dungeons of Venice. On a mound, at the end of an area formerly surrounded by a wall and fosse, stands the shell of the " donjon keep," 50 feet square, and 40 feet high. In the centre of the thick walls are stone staircases, leading to rooms whose floors are gone. In this castle used to be held the Stannary Courts, which had the power of trying and punishing persons who offended against the laws of the Stannaries. The dungeons of the castle were so bad as to give rise to the adage — "Lydford law punishes first and tries after." Criminals were detained here a month, year, or longer, a goal delivery taking place only once in ten years ; which circumstance was complained of by petition in the reign of Edward III. who issued a commission to redress this grievance. In 1512, Richard Strode, Esq. member of parliament for the borough of Plympton Earle, having exerted himself to procure an act to prevent the blocking up of harbours by the operations of stream works, was prosecuted by the tinners at their court held at Crockern-tor, and sentenced to pay a severe fine. On his refusal to comply with the penalty,
LIDFORD, ETC. 157
he was confined in the loathsome dungeons of Lydford castle for more than three weeks, heavily ironed, and fed on bread and water.
Considerable traces of ancient buildings were to be seen at Lydford when Risdon wrote his Survey of Devon, (about the year 1630). This author says " they can shew you where the gates stood, and also the foundation of the walls that encircled it, (the town) compacted of moorstone and lime, which they lighted on as they digged their fields. v
About a mile from the castle, on the common, is Kate's fall, where the Lyd rushes in its full body over a rocky descent of 30 feet. It is said to have derived its name from the melancholy fate of a poor market woman, who, attempting to urge her horse across the river, above the fall, wTas carried down the stream, and hurled into death by the cascade. The horse also suffered the same fate ; and " having paniers, remained for some time pressed in the narrow channel " at the top of the fall.
To vary his return, it is recommended that the tourist proceed by a cross way to the high road, between Oakhampton and Tavistock. Having reached it, he need not be told his course homeward is southerly. On his left is the rising ground of Dartmoor. As he approaches Tavistock, the scenery becomes more varied and interesting. Leaving Brent Tor distant on his right, he will pass through the busy districts of Wheal Friend- ship and other extensive mines, yielding tin, copper, &c. Descending thence, he overlooks the progress of the Tavy through the valley on his left, and, at length, reaching the level of its stream, passes Hazeldon, the residence of C. V. Bridgman, Esq. designed by the author, and proceeds, between Park Wood House, close on his left, and Mount Tavy, on the opposite side of the river, into Tavistock.
The architectural character of Park WTood House will not fail to attract notice. It is from Mr. Foulston's M
158 stranger's guide.
designs, and belongs to the Rev. W. Evans, (Unitarian minister) whose lady and daughter have here established a boarding school. Mount Tavy, attractive by its tree- clothed elevation and the neat mansion on its summit, is the property of John Carpenter, Esq.
159
ENDSLEIGH.
Endsleigh, the cottage retreat of His Grace the Duke of Bedford, is unequalled by any other example of the kind that has come within the author's observation. It is distant a pleasant drive of about seven miles from Tavistock. Leaving the town in a N.W. direction we follow the Launceston road (observing in our way the neat residence of — Wilson, Esq. and others, as we proceed) until our more decided attention is arrested by the modern gothic elevation of the Milton Abbot free school on the right, and two corresponding examples of cottage design on the left. Beyond these at a short distance, is seen the village and church of Milton Abbot, which formerly appertained to the manor of Tavistock Abbey, and is now the property of the Duke of Bedford. The school building alluded to, was erected by His Grace.
Passing between the two Lodges aforesaid, we enter the rustic domain of Endsleigh, and follow an agreeable drive to the cottage entrance at the back. The usual permission having been obtained, we first survey the interior of the Cottage, under the guidance of the house- keeper. Of the various apartments, the dining room claims most particular notice — not only as regards its elegantly appropriate decorations, but also in respect to the prospect from its " emblazoned window," which overlooks the lengthened perspective of a noble terrace, and a variety of charming objects, near and remote, above and far below. The Cottage has been built from designs by Sir J. Wyatville, and exhibits all the prouder varieties of an humble style. The terrace is perfect in beauty — enclosed on one side by a bank of shrubs and flowers, and open on the other to a mead below, shelving towards the Tamar, from the opposite side of which the Cornish shores rise to a considerable elevation. m 2
160 stranger's guide.
The view, looking down the river upon the woods on the Endsleigh side, is enchanting. A walk through these woods, as far as the Swiss Cottage, is a positively en- joined duty of the day; nor must the Grotto at the end of the Terrace escape observation. The principal feature in the secluded walks at the back of the house, is the Dairy, a bijou of its kind.
Should circumstances permit, the stranger may be gratified by extending his journey to Launceston. At some distance beyond Milton Abbot, he will diverge from the old into a new line of road, which conducts, by an easy descent, down the side of a valley to Lowleigh Bridge, the first view of which, on winding round the excavated road-way is of distinguished beauty.
About three miles beyond is the ancient borough of Launceston, approached by a road of steep descent, whence the lofty remains of its castle above, and ancient gate below, present an appearance singularly picturesque. Opposite the south gate, is another on the northern side of the town, from which a fearfully steep road leads to the bottom of the hill, on the brow of which the town is situated. Till lately this was the thoroughfare : but a new road has been constructed to the great accommoda- tion of coach and cart trafic.
The castle, (taken from its Saxon possessor by William I. and conferred upon the Conqueror's half- brother), remained the strong hold of the Earls of Cornwall until the time of Edward III. During the civil wars it was successively assailed and defended by Charles and the parliamentary forces. Such was the acknowledged strength of the fortress in early times, that the monastic clergy congregated' around it for safety. This accounts for the number of chapels that existed within the fortress. The chapel of St. Mary Magdelene was made the parish church in 1520; nor is it often we observe such a profusion of rich carved work as we have to admire on the exterior of this building. The visitor will, of course, not fail to see it. Within are
LAUNCESTON, ETC. 161
monuments, bearing the names of Lawrence, Pyper, and Vyvyan.
The Castle ruins are extensive, and highly picturesque in certain select points of view. If the mound be wholly artificial, it is a gigantic work. The circular Keep of concentric towers, the one within, and above the other, is an interesting curiosity and striking object. It is worthy of examination, and approachable without much difficulty. According to Borlase, " the whole keep is 93 feet in diameter ; it consisted of three wards : the wall of the first ward was not quite three feet thick ; and therefore, I think, could only be a parapet for soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill. Six feet within it stands the second wall, which is twelve feet thick, and has a staircase three feet wide, at the left hand of the entrance, running up to the top of the rampart : the entrance of this stair-case has a round arch of stone over it. Passing on to the left, you find the entrance into the innermost ward, and on the left of that entrance a winding stair-case conducts you to the top of the innermost rampart; the wall of which is 10 feet thick, and 32 feet high from the floor ; the inner room is 1 8 feet 6 inches diameter ; it was divided by a planking into two rooms." Opposite the Launceston hill is another equally steep, on which is situate the church of St. Stephens. At the back of this is Werring- ton Park, a seat of the Duke of Northumberland.
About 9 miles S.S.W. of Launceston, is the famous Cheese Wring, a pile of granite stones, exhibiting a sin- gular example of accidental construction. The stones, seven or eight in number, increase in size as they mount upwards, the superior blocks seeming to occupy a very unstable position. The height of the pile is from 30 to 35 feet; and its strength is sufficiently proved by its having, perhaps from the subsiding of the deluge, braved the furious storms which range with singular violence over the face of this barren moor-land. It should also be stated that the Cheese Wring is accompanied by m 3
162 stranger's guide.
several other piles of granite, scarcely less curious in form and position ; while the general scene around may be mentioned as a most fitting haunt for the Genius of Desolation.
About a mile S. of the Cheeswring is a Druidical remain, called the Hurlers, an assemblage of rude stone pillars, formed into three circles, and believed by the peasantry to have once been men, who were petrified for hurling (a common Cornish sport) on the sabbath-day.
Rather more than a mile South of the Hurlers is the church of St. Cleer, a very handsome building ; and at a small distance from it is the celebrated well, to which the power of effecting miraculous cures, was formerly ascribed.
From hence we proceed to Tavistock, through Cal- lington. The latter, though small, is an improving town, and is distinguished by its weekly market. An extensive market court, surrounded with slated sheds on granite columns, together with a market inn, large corn chamber, and weighing room, have been lately erect- ed by Alexander Baring, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), from designs by the author.
Passing over Hengeston Down, we leave on our left Kitt hill, surmounted by a wind machine, employed in working the pump of a tin mine. At the east end of the down we come in view of Morwell rocks, before noticed as a striking picture viewed from this quarter. New Bridge will also please as a picturesque object beautifully situated. Three miles further to the N.E. we arrive at Tavistock.
163
EXCURSION— DARTMOOR.
A road, leading East from Tavistock, conducts into the heart of Dartmoor. This dreary but interesting waste comprises not less than 130,000 acres. The legends of the moor speak of" winged serpents" in the low, and wolves in the high lands : also of wild men noted for their swiftness of foot. The surface of the moor is undulating, and varies in height from 400 to 2,100 feet above the sea. Mean height 1,782 feet. It is 20 miles long; and in some parts 11 wide. In its numerous furrows are collected the waters which supply the rivers Dart, Teign, Tavy, Taw, Plym, Cad, Erme, Yealm, and 48 minor streams. Though generally pre- senting the severest expression of barrenness, it has its vallies and skirting declivities of great beauty. The scenery about Drewsteignton on the N.E., and Holne Chase on the S.E., is romantic in the extreme ; and in many other quarters of the forest, where verdure and beauty are not, there is yet harvest for the antiquary. In 1827-28 the Rev. S. Rowe, Mr. Woollcombe, Col. C. II . Smith, and Mr. Prideaux, explored these com- paratively "unknown regions;" and the issue of their joint researches, drawn up by Mr. Rowe, forms a most interesting paper in the Transactions of the Plymouth Institution.
" On the moor," says Mr. Rowe, " and within its precincts, are to be found examples of druidical antiquity, including the sacred circle — avenues — the cromlech — the kistvaen — the rock idol — rock basin — monumental pillar — cairn or barrow dwellings and trackways." The most perfect cromlech is at Drews- teignton ; but, without exceeding the measure of a day's excursion, several interesting remains may be seen. Between 4 and 5 miles from Tavistock is Merivale Bridge, where the remains of an ancient British village
164 stranger's guide.
claim the notice of the tourist. " Here is a pair of druidical avenues, parallel to each other, 105 feet apart, running East and West; the longest 1,143 feet, the shortest 792. The stones of which they are formed are scarcely two feet above the ground, placed at irregular distances, but generally about 3^ feet apart. The short- est terminates in a circle, and the longest has a circle at midlength." Near these parallelitha are a fallen crom- lech, tombstone, barrow, circle, maen or obelisk ; and, nearer the road, the remains of a hut village, and other fragments. Pursuing the road due east, we pass the head of the Devonport leat, and arrive at Two Bridges, from which, a mile distant, rises Crockern Tor, accounted the centre of the moor, and celebrated as the seat of Stannary justice, — Lydford Castle being that of Stannary punishment. Even within the memory of the now pass- ing generation courts have been held here ; and, till some years back, the judge's seat, juror's bench and court table, were to be seen distinctly hewn in the moor- stone on the summit of the Tor. Near Crockern Tor, on the N.W. is " the lonely wood of Wistman," the solitary relic of Dartmoor forest, consisting of decrepit oaks, battling as it were with granite rocks ; but so stinted in nourishment as to attain a growth not higher than seven feet.
Retreat we now to Prince Town — a town by no means princely, at least in its present state, which is that of a poor deserted village. The town simply originated in the erection of the prison-of- war adjoining, but having lost this attraction for persons in different branches of trade, many of its dwellings are now deserted. The prison consists of seven distinct buildings of two stories in each, for the hammocks of the prisoners, and a large loft over for the purpose of exercise in inclement weather. Adjoining is the hospital, with spacious and airy wards, dispensary, &c. and a very complete cooking-house and laundry. The lofty wall which surrounds the buildings, forms a circle nearly a mile in circumference, inclosing
PRINCE TOWN. 165
an area of thirty acres. The great gate on the western side is arched over with immense blocks of granite, on which is engraven the appropriate inscription — Parcere Subjectis. Immediately opposite is the ample reser- voir, from winch the whole establishment is supplied with water. The prison has been known to contain nine thousand six hundred men at one time ; and the barracks adjoining are well adapted to the accommoda- tion of a number of troops sufficient for the secure cus- tody of the prisoners. A neat church has been erected at Prince-town, where service is performed everySunday. Tor Koyal, the occasional residence of the late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, is situated south of the town. This enterprising gentleman succeeded in rearing some planta- tions, and in redeeming a portion of cultivated land from the surrounding waste ; the further improvement of which will be considerably facilitated by the completion of the iron railway from Prince-town to Plymouth.
If, in returning to Tavistock, the traveller can contrive to see the course of the river Walkham, between Hockworthy bridge and Vixen Tor, he will find ample opportunity for the employment of his pencil.
The course of the Mew or Meavy, is beyond the reach of one day's excursion from Tavistock ; but it is a favor- ite with all lovers of the picturesque. Its springs, a short distance S.W. of Prince Town, and pursuing its course through a wild valley, passes the weir head of the Plymouth Leat ; half a mile below which is Sheepstor bridge. The scenery is, hereabout, truly fine. At the bottom of a ravine is the river : halfway up the northern acclivity flows the Leat, rounding the base of a perpen- dicular cliff of startling appearance, and said to have been a rock idol. The southern acclivity is richly wooded ; in one part of it, concealed from distant view by foliage, is a cascade : behind rises the granite mass of Sheepstor. Further down is the village of Meavy, with its venerable oak, said to have been planted by Sir Francis Drake ; and thence the river flows through
166 stranger's guide.
the charming vale of Meavy until it joins the Cad or Plym, at Shaugh bridge.
The direct road from Tavistock to Plymouth has its points of beauty. The scenery which presents itself on descending from Greenofen to Bedford bridge, will certainly be acknowledged as richly pictorial. The small mine seen first is Poldice tin mine ; the larger works at the bottom, near the bridge, are those of Wheal Franco, a copper mine. Proceeding onwards by a long ascent, we observe Grimstone Hall on the left, the seat of J. Collier, Esq. M.P. and the village of Horrabridge below. The moor scenery then opens upon us as we enter upon Roborough down, which is, as it were, the western vestibule of Dartmoor forest. Here, to the right of the road, we observe a large mass of rock, curious in its form and solitary insulation. On the right below lies Yelverton, the village of Meavy distantly appearing in the valley beyond. The higher grounds of the Down command a fine pros- pect of the distant Cornish hills, with the woods of Bickham (the seat of J. H. Gill, Esq.) in the foreground. A clump of fir trees and two gate lodges mark the en- trance to Maristow, before mentioned as the beautiful residence of Sir Ralph Lopes, Bart. Mount Edgcumbe and Staddon, the boundaries of Plymouth Sound, appear in the distant south. Passing through the vil- lage of Jump, we proceed to that of Knackersknowle, catching a brief glance at Hamoaze S.W. in the distance. About J mile on, we descend by a truly scenic piece of road, between the entrance lodges of Manadon on the right, and Widey on the left— important country residences belonging respectively to the Parlby and Morshead families. Here the road has two divergences, the one towards the right leading to Devonport, the other to Plymouth. In following the latter we pass Hartley, belonging to — Howard, Esq. on the left ; and, shortly after, descend an excavated piece of road, by the tasteful cottage residence of John Foulston, Esq. whose
NORTH HILL. 167
name, as the leading architect of Plymouth, has been so often mentioned in these pages. Crossing Mutley Plain, whence, in an easterly direction, is obtained a passing glimpse of Saltram woods and lake, we ascend North hill, on which several pleasing residences are situated. That immediately on the west side of the road belongs to A. B. Johns, Esq. whose high credentials as a landscape painter may be found on the walls of every picture fancier in the neighbourhood. On the right of the descent is the Plymouth reservoir. The fragment of old architecture in the central part of the wall, formed the front of a conduit building, lately situated in the area at the head of Old Town-street, by which we now re-enter Plymouth.
168
TAVISTOCK EXCURSION. SUPPLEMENTARY.
From Morwellham Quay to Pentillie, following the windings of the river, is about six miles. Rounding the peninsular pro- jection of Harewood, (which Mason, in his poem of Elfrida, has made the scene of the love of Ethelwold, and of the mis- fortunes consequent on his marriage with the fair daughter of Ordgar, ) we leave Rumley on our left, and, making another sweep, arrive at the quays of Calstock, the church of which, situated on an eminence, commands a view of the course of the Tamar at least twenty miles in extent. At the east end is a small chapel, with several monuments of the families of Cotehele and Edgcumbe. The whole building is of Cornish granite. Further down is Ward-house on the left, and on the right the venerable woods of Cotehele appear, richly clothing the cliffs down to the water's edge. An avenue of chesnut trees conducts from the river to the house. The-Gothic chapel, partially concealed in the deep foliage, was built by Sir Richard Edgcumbe, comptroller of the household to Henry the seventh ; and an inscription on the northern wall of the interior, from Carew's Survey, informs the reader of the cause of its erection. " Sir Richard Edgcumbe was driven to hide himself in those his thick woods, which overlook the river, what time being- suspected of favouring the Earl of Richmond's party against king Richard the third, he was hotely pursued and narrowly searched for, which extremity taught him a sudden policy — to put a stone in his cap, and tumble the same into the water, while these rangers were fast at his heels, who looking down after the noise, and seeing his cap swimming thereon, supposed that he had desperately drowned himself, gave over their far- ther hunting, and left him liberty to shift away, and ship over into Brittaine ; — for a grateful remembrance of which delivery he afterwards builded, in the place of his lurking, a chapel. " Cotehele house appears to have been erected in the reign of Henry the seventh. "It exhibits," saysMr.Rowe, "a proud monument of feudal splendour, the unnumbered seasons that have rolled over its battlements having added interest to its appearance without affecting its stability. The entrance is through a Gothic arch into a quadrangular court, surrounded
COTEHELE AND PENTILLIE, 169
by buildings composed of granite. The hall, which is pre- served with all the characteristic appendages of feudal dignity, presents an interesting specimen of the furniture and weapons used by our ancestors. The walls are hung with coats of mail, shields, helmets, gauntlets, arquebuses, bows, arrows, spears, swords, and other instruments of offensive and defensive war- fare. At the upper end of the hall, the figure of a warrior, armed cap a -pie, appears to frown on the degenerate sons of modern times. Immense antelopes' horns, and tusks, trophies of the prowess of the Nimrods of the day, are suspended from the walls. On the windows are emblazoned some armorial bearings, much injured by time. From the hall we enter, through a dining-room hung with tapestry, the chapel, where the family were accustomed to perform their devotions, sepa- rated from the domestics and vassals by an open screen. The altar-cloth of rich crimson velvet, ornamented with figures of the apostles and other devices, has been removed, for the pur- pose of preservation, to the state bed-room. The stair-case leading to the upper apartments is adorned with several por- traits, whose lineaments time has nearly obliterated. One is said to be the founder of the mansion. The state bed-room, and the anti-chamber, are hung round with tapestry, an object of general admiration. The contest of Romulus and Remus, and the tale of the Sabine virgins, are depicted with accuracy, freedom, and effect. An apartment in the north tower is fur- nished with antique ebony chairs ; and at the fire-place are immense brazen dogs. These will be remarked in all the other apartments, which are entirely destitute of grates — the ample hearths of the chieftain being always supplied with fuel from his woods The tapestry of this room is devoted to the unfor- tunate loves of Hero and Leander. The prospect from the windows extends over rich woodland scenery. Another cham- ber contains a variety of old china, a model of a canoe, and a curious music-book dated 1556. Among the numerous ancient curiosities, besides those already described, are some elaborately-carved cabinets, embroidered couches, a mirror richly ornamented with bead work, a variety of drinking- vessels, candlesticks, and other earthenware and metal furniture of grotesque forms and antique workmanship/'
Pentillie Castle, the residence of J. T. Coryton, Esq. is noted as a select modern specimen of Tudor architecture, from designs by W. Wilkins, Esq. R.A. The internal "finishings" are spoken of as " superb," and as including "one of the most beautifully painted windows in the Kingdom.*' The lands around assume a variety of bold and picturesque forms, en- inveloped dense masses of umbrageous woods, or partially
170 SUPPLEMENT.
shaded by scattered groups of flourishing trees, harmonizing with the lordly appearance of the castle, which seems the chief of the fine district that it commands, and forms one of the most charming features in the scenery of the Tamar. A tower, on a conspicuous eminence in the grounds, was built for the sepul- ture of Sir James Tillie, a former owner of this domain, whose interment in this romantic spot has given rise to many ridicu- lous stories, to which an air of probability has been given by the narrative of Gilpin. But nothing can be more false than his account of the body having been placed in a chair, with a table laid out before it with bottles, glasses, &c. On the con- trary, the body was placed in a coffin and deposited in a vault ; and the choice of situation will not appear strange when it is considered that in the room above Sir James Tillie had, per- haps, enjoyed the happiest hours of his life. His last will and testament has lately been examined by his heirs at Doctors' Commons, and in this document it is observable that, so far from his principles being atheistical, they breathe throughout a disposition fraught with the utmost submission to the will of Divine Providence, and a perfect confidence in the wisdom and mercies of the Creator.
m
CARRINGTON,
The Poet.
It has been customary with most topographers, in describing the neighbourhood of Plymouth, to quote largely from the author of " Dartmoor," " Banks of Tamar," &c. but the writer of the present volume is rather induced to regard CARRINGTON as a great leading object of local interest, not to be partially employed by the Tourist's Guide, but to be thoroughly perused by the Tourist himself.
It were an insult to remind the literary and critical world of the exalted character of the late Mr. Carring- ton's poetry, descriptive of those portions of Devon and Cornwall which have been noticed in the foregoing pages : but the " local " quality of his muse may have left many persons indifferent to its strains, until now that they are present among the various scenes which form their subject.
Let every visitor and resident, therefore, who pre- sumes not to regard himself as a true poet, nor as having that power of extracting delights " which poets only know," — let him seek in the pages of Carrington for that essence of scenic beauty or grandeur, which is deduced from a lively communion between the genius of the place and the soul of the spectator.
The poems of Carrington have been lately published in two small and beautifully printed volumes, edited N 2
172 CARRTNGTON.
by the poet's son, H. E. Carrington, Esq. of Bath,* who has prefaced the work with an account of his father's life, a brief portion of which is autobiogra- phical. An interesting notice of Dartmoor, shewing that the poet's feelings have descended, in all their warmth and delicacy, to his son, is followed by " DARTMOOR," the poem; to which is appended a valuable series of notes by the late Wm. Burt, Esq. " MY NATIVE VILLAGE," and other minor poems, complete the first volume ; the second being occupied by " BANKS OF TAMAR," and a number of shorter pieces, most of them breathing that spirit of " Local Love," which had so deep a seat in the heart of their gifted — but afflicted author. Wherefore " afflicted," his life and poems will most affectingly shew : how loved and honoured in life, and how lamented in death, there are many to testify. To embalm the recollection of his once-valued companionship in fond and admiring reminiscence, and to enjoy so much of him as the printer has perpetuated, are all that is now left to us ! He was born in Plymouth, 1777, and died in the house of his son, at Bath, on the 2nd of September, 1830.
* Proprietor of the " Bath Chronicle."
APPENDIX
175
STEAM PACKETS.
One of the London, Dublin, Belfast and Falmouth STEAM COMPANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for London every Friday ; and for Falmouth, Dublin and Belfast, every Tuesday. The vessels now employed in this service are the Shannon, City of Londonderry, Royal Tar, Thames and William Fawcett. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth. Agent, \V. Saunders.
One of the Liverpool ST. GEORGE STEAM COM- PANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for Liverpool and Cork every Monday and Friday ; and for London every Monday and Thursday. The vessels now employed in this service are the Hercules, Nora Creina, Victory, Glasgow, Herald and Emerald Isle. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth. Agent, R. Morris.
The Brunswick, steam vessel, leaves Stonehouse Pool at 12r and Cat water at 1 every Monday and Thursday for Torquay, Coices and Portsmouth, Agents' offices, Exchange, Plymouth ; Brunswick Hotel, Stonehouse, &c. Agent, J. E. Blewett.
The Sir Francis Drake, steam vessel, leaves Plymouth for Falmouth every Wednesday and Saturday ; and for Guernsey every Thursday. Agent's office, Maritime Inn, Parade, Ply- mouth ;. and Mr. Langdon's, Union-street, Stonehouse.
176 APPENDIX.
SAILING VESSELS.
The South Devon United Shipping Company was established in 1828, the shares being held by the merchants and tradesmen of the town and neighbourhood. The shares, originally £50 each, are now valued at £70 ; but no shareholder can sell without first offering his share or shares to the Committee, a precautionary measure to prevent the admission of persons who cannot assist the concern by their shipments. The Company have now (1836) seven schooners, viz. — The Saltram, Ply- mouth, Storehouse, London, Tavistock, Liskeard, and Launceston, built within the Port, and furnished with good accommodation for passengers. They load at the Custom- House Wharf, Plymouth ; and at Beal's Wharf, London; for which they sail weekly in succession. J. Saunders, Wharfinger.
Besides this Company's schooners, there are employed in the coasting trade, the Plymouth and London Union Shipping Company's vessels, viz. — the Ann, Brownfield, Mary Ann, Margaret, Minerva, Mould, Sarah, and William, which load at Cotton's Wharf, Southside-Street, Plymouth ; and at Cotton's Wharf, London. Peter Lawson and John Nettleton, Wharfingers.
The Bristol Traders are at present the Prothesa and Avon, the property of Messrs. Wingyett and Co. also from Cotton's Wharf, Plymouth. John Nettleton, Wharfinger.
A constant communication is likewise kept up with Jersey and Guernsey.
An account of the foreign trading is given in page 30.
APPENDIX. 177
MAIL AND STAGE COACHES.
QUICKSILVER MAIL for London every morning ; via Ashburton, at ^ past 6, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devon- port; and at i before 7, from the Mail office, Briton-side, Plymouth.
BATH AND BRISTOL MAIL every evening ; via Totnes, at 5, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport ; and from the Mail office, Briton side, Plymouth, at k after .5.
The FALMOUTH MAIL every morning at 7, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport.
SUBSCRIPTION COACH for London every morning ; at 9 from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport; and at \ past 9 from Mason's Commercial Hotel, Old Town, and Mail office, Briton-side, Plymouth.
STANDARD COACH for London, Bath, and Bristol, every day except Sunday ; at 12 from Elliot's Hotel, Devonport ; and at \ past 12 from Mason's Commercial Hotel, and Mail office, Briton-side, Plymouth.
DEFIANCE for London every morning ; at | before 11 from Weakley's Hotel, Devonport ; and at 11 from the White Hart, Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, Plymouth.
NIMROD for Barnstaple (through Launceston) every Mon- day, Wednesday, and Friday ; at 9 from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport ; and at \ past 9 from Mason's Com- mercial Hotel, Old Town-street, Plymouth.
TELEGRAPH for Barnstaple (through Okehampton) every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; at i past 7 from Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, Plymouth ; and Weakley's Hotel, Devonport, at 8.
The TELEGRAPH for Kingsbridge ; at 10, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings, from Mason's Com- mercial Hotel, Plymouth.
The EXQUISITE for Kingsbridge; at 10, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, from the White Hart, Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, Plymouth.
178 APPENDIX.
HACKNEY COACHES.
STANDS— AT PLYMOUTH.
Royal Hotel Stand, for Five Carriages.— In George's- Place, in the centre of the road.
Bedford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the distance of Thirty Feet from the Public-House known by the name of the New Tree.
Old-Town-Street Stand, for Six Carriages. — In the middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards the South, at the distance of Fifty Feet from the boundary Wall of the Church Yard.
New Quay Stand, for Two Carriages.
Briton-Side Stand, for One Carriage, taking care in all cases the thoroughfare is as little impeded as possible.
STANDS— AT STONEHOUSE.
Edgcumbe-Street Stand, for Four Carriages. — In the middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards the East, in a line with the Dwelling-Houses numbered 4 and 11.
Durnford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — In the middle of the Street, at the lower end of Higher Durnford- Stieet.
STANDS— AT DEVONPORT.
Fore-Street Stand, for Eight Carriages. — In the middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards the East, leaving a space of at least Fifteen Feet to the East- ward of Tavistock- Street, and that no Carriage shall stand below it.
Catherine-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the Lower Market-Gate.
Morice-Square Stand, for Two Carriages. — On the South side of the Square.
APPENDIX. 179
G forge-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — Opposite the Chapel Wine Vaults, with the Horses' Heads turned towards the North.
Every Driver of a Carriage which shall be waiting to be hired, shall go from the Stand where he shall be hired, either at Plymouth, Stonehouse, or Devonport, to any place within either of those Towns, and take up his fare without any additional charge, and proceed to any Stand in either of the adjoining Towns for the respective Rates mentioned in the subjoined Table ; but if sent for from Plymouth or Devonport to any place in Stonehouse or Stoke, and then take up a fare, shall be allowed One Shilling in addition to the sum he is entitled to for the ordinary fare.
FARES— AT PLYMOUTH.
From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the same Town, except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside — One shilling and sixpence.
From or to any place in Plymouth to or from the Citadel, the Victualling-Office, and Coxside — Two shillings.
From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the Parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, exceeding the distance before mentioned — Three shillings.
FARES— FROM PLYMOUTH.
From any of the stands in Plymouth, to the Richmond Baths, or to any of the stands in Devonport, or to any other place in Devonport, not exceeding in distance the appointed stands — Two shillings.
From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands — Two shillings and sixpence.
From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in Stoke or Morice-Town, either by way of Stonehouse or Penny-come- quick — Three shillings.
From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any other place within the Parish of Stoke -D am erel, than those before- mentioned — Three shillings and sixpence.
130 APPENDIX.
From the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside, to any place in Devonporl, Stoke-Damerel and Stonehouse, an addi- tional sixpence.
FARES— AT DEVONPORT.
From any place in the Towns of Devonport, or Morice- Town, to any other place in the same Towns, (including the Dock- Yard and Gunwharf)— One shilling and sixpence.
From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Richmond Baths, Stoke Church, or the village of Stoke— Two shilling s
From any of the stands in Devonport, to any other place in the parish of Stoke-Damerel, beyond Stoke Church or the village of Stoke, an additional shilling.
FARES— FROM DEVONPORT.
From any of the stands in Devonport, to any of the stands in Plymouth, or to any place in Plymouth, not exceeding the distance of the appointed stands — Two shillings.
From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in Ply- mouth, (except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside) exceeding in distance the appointed stands — Two shillings and sixpence.
From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth — Three shillings.
From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in the parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, exceeding the distances before-mentioned, an additional shilling.
From Morice-Town or Stoke, to any place in Plymouth or Stonehouse, an additional shilling.
FARES— FROM AND TO PLYMOUTH, DEVONPORT, AND STONEHOUSE.
From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any stand in Stonehouse— One shilling and sixpence.
From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any place in the Parish of Stonehouse, beyond the stands — Two shillings.
FARES— AT STONEHOUSE,
From any place in Stonehouse, to any other place in the same Town, including the Naval Hospital— One shilling and sixpence.
APPENDIX. 181
FARES-FROM STONEIIOUSE.
From or to any place in Stonehouse, to or from the Richmond Baths, or any place in Plymouth or Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands, except the Citadel, Victualling- Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth and Morice-Town, and Stoke, in the Parish of Stoke-Damerel — One shilling and sixpence.
From any place in Stonehouse, to Stoke Church, Morice- Town, or the village of Stoke, or to any place in Plymouth, beyond the appointed stands, (except to the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside)— Two shillings.
From any place in Stonehouse, to the Citadel, Victualling- Office, and Coxside, in Plymouth — Two shillings and sixpence.
From any place in Stonehouse, to any place in the parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, or to any place in the parish of Stoke-Damerel, exceeding the distances before- mentioned — Three shillings*
For Hackney Coaches with less than Four Wheels, or that shall be drawn by not more than One Horse, Two-thirds only of the preceding Rates shall be paid.
18*2 APPENDIX.
WAGGONS.
The waggons of Russell and Co. depart almost daily from the warehouse of Mr. Courtis, Bedford-street, Plymouth. The Van Carriage has been lately put aside.
THE LONDON FLY WAGGONS
From the Elephant, 112, Fore-Street, calling at the Old White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, through Salisbury , Shaftesbury, Hindon, Mere, Wincanton, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne, Ilminster, Chard, Axminster, and Honiton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 4J days ; and from thence, same night, to the Waggon Warehouse, Kinterbury-Street. Plymouth, for DevonpOTt and all parts of Cornwall.
THE BRISTOL FLY WAGGONS
From Shurmer's Warehouse, 13, Temple-Street, taking from the Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Cheltenham, and other Waggons, through Bridge water, Taunton, Wellington, and Collumpton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 34 hours ; and from thence, same night, to the Waggon Warehouse, Kinterbury-Street, Plymouth, for Devonport, and all parts of Cornwall, arrive and depart every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
Proprietors : — Wade and Shurmer, Birmingham ; Kino and Ward, (late Woolcott and Co.) London ; Chadwell, Bristol ; PADDON, (late Single,) Kinterbury-Street, Ply- mouth.
SCHOOLS.
A difficulty has arisen which renders it advisable to avoid a particular enumeration of the various schools, &c. which are to be found in the three towns. The names of the several Clergymen who receive pupils, and of the other leading Schoolmasters are sufficiently before the local public, who may exercise a privilege of recommendation, to the advantage of the inquirer, scarcely allowable in a work of this kind.
183
INDEX,
TAGE.
Admiral's House 67
Antony ....•••*.... 143
Albemarle Villas, Stoke 89
Appendix 173
Architecture old, of Plymouth 13
modern, of ditto 14
modern, of Devonport 62
Assembly Rooms, Plymouth 16
Athenaeum 17
Barracks, Royal Marine .... 51
Baths, Union Street 7. 26
Back well's > 61
Banking Houses of Plymouth ............ 39
0f Devonport 72
Beggar's Island 1 43
Belmont House 89
Bickleigh 135
Bovisand Reservoir, &c. 102
Block House, Stoke 4. 90
Breakwater 99
Bridge Lary . . 127
■ Stonehouse 59
Chain and Steam Boat 95. 97
Buckl and Abbey 149
Monachorum *. 150
BrentTor „ 154
184 INDEX.
PAGF.
Borringdon 131
Budeaux, St. 148
Church of St. Andrew, Plymouth 21
Charles ditto 23
Stoke 90
Chapel, St. Andrew's, Plymouth 19
Charles ditto 24
in the Citadel ditto 25
■ on the Hoe ditto 9
Mariners' ditto 25.37
St. George, Parochial, Storehouse 50
St. Paul's ditto 50
in Naval Hospital ditto 51
St. Aubyn's, Devonport • 65
St. John's ditto 66
DockYard 66.76
Eldad 25
Ebenezer 25.51
• Independent 23.51.92
Presbvtetian 25
Unitaiian 23.66
Baptist 23. 66
Friends, Society of 23
Methodist 51. 66. 92
— — Calvinist 66
Moravian 66
Mount Zion 65
• Roman Catholic 51
<<i Providence, in Raleigh -Street, Plymouth,
(accidentally omitted in the body of the
work)
— Jews' Synagogue, in Catherine street, Plymouth
Carrington, Poet 171
Cann Quarry 134
Catwater Harbour 31
Cawsand Bay and Town 103. 121
Callington 162
Column of Devonport 3.62
Citadel of Plymouth 11
Cheese Wring, Cornwall 161
Coaches, Stage and Mail 32
Hackney 117
INDEX. 185 PAGE.
CrockernTor 164
Cotehele 168
Chelson Meadow 128
Charities of Plymouth 33 to 39
Storehouse 59
Devonport 70
Stoke 92
Custom House 25
Chamber of Commerce 32
Commercial Rooms, Plymouth 20
Stonehouse 58
Devonport
CrabTree 130
Cholera 47
Dartmoor 163
Dewerstone 135
DEVONPORT described ...... 3 and 61 to 68
Supplement 69 to 73
Dispensary of Plymouth 37
— ■ Stonehouse and Devonport 70
Dock Yard 74 to 86
Druidical Antiquities 162. 163
Eddystone Light House 104 to 112
Environs of the three Towns 5
Exchange 32
Excise Office 33
Eye Infirmary 38
Endsleigh 159
Ermington and Erme River 139
Fortifications — Devonport 61
Plymouth 11
Stonehouse £9
Free (Grammar School 35
Fore Street, Devonport 62
Fleet 139
Guildhall, Plymouth 23
Government House 67
186 ISDEX.
Gas Companies Z?GaA
Gun Wharf 32- ££
Germans, St. Church [ [ ' [ [ ] [ [ [ \ \ \ ^
Hoe „ . O O Q
— -, Curious Legend of the .... ■, f*
Hamoaze q -lio
Harbours 3' l%*
Hotel, Theatre, and Assembly Rooms! ! ! " * * i\
Hospital, South Devon and East Cornwall* ' '. '. '. '. ' \ 38 27 (r^
Royal Naval ' KZ£
♦ Military %>
Horticultural Society \\
Hackney Coaches 7 M T i£
Harewood " '. " * 7;£2']™
Hurlers " ** 151# 168
Historic Sketch of Plymouth .'""!!'!".!"" ^4
" " • Stonehouse [ [[ 50
■ ' * Devonport .....*! $q
Inns, principal, of Plymouth -. 7
. Stonehouse , ." • 49
. — _ Devonport gi
Institution, Literary " jp
'~r :::::::::::: 139- $
Ker Street, Devonport ] fi0
Key ham Point qX
Kitiey ^\\\\\\.\"; m
Kingsand ..""""""!!"! 121
Lary Bridge ]27
Library, Public, Plymouth ... .. \ to
Devonport ....'.'.' [ * [ * '■ ' g4
— — ■ Law rJ:
Medical Y.V.V/M'.V. *Q
Leat, Plymouth \ \ \ " * * \ \ \ * ' \ oq Devonport .'.'.* * !!.'!' ! 6Q
Lodging Houses ' * \ \ ' ' * [ \ ' #* * 7 49 gl
INDEX. 187
PAGE.
Lidford Cascade and Bridge ] 55
Castle and Kate's Fall 156
Launceston Cattle 1 60
Liskeard and Looe 146
MORICE TOWN 4. 93
Mount Edgcumbe 3. 1J3
Batten 9
Wise 67
Market, Plymouth 13
• Stonehouse £8
Devonport 62
Manor Office, New, Stonehouse fcO
Mechanics' Institute, Plymouth 39
Devonport 73
Medical Society 39
Municipal Information, Plymouth 29
Stonehouse 58
— Devonport 69
Michael's St. Terrace (miscalled Cornwall Terrace) 89
Mill Bay 60
Marble Quarries 32. 9
Mew Stone 103
Maker 120
Maristow 149
Morwell Rocks 151
Millbrook 122
Meavy }ij5
Modbury ■ 139
Mathews, the Comedian, his Tomb 27(6)
Naval Hospital 55
Nicholas' Island 9.99
New Passage 93
New Roads 97
Newspapers Local 39. 73
Neot's, St. I47
Old Houses, Plymouth 13
Oreston Quarries 126
188
PAGE.
PLYMOUTH described . . , 1 to 27
Supplement 29 to 48
« Sound 4 to 99
Princess Square L3
Post Office, Plymouth 8. 33
Stonehouse 59
Devonport 62.73
Plympton St. Mary 131
PlvmptonTown 133
Plym Bridge 136
Powder Magazine 93.143
Pentillie 169
Prince Town, Prisons of War 164
Penlee Point 122
Port Eliot ....... 145
Quarries, Marble 32. 126
Limestone 126 and 9
Slate 136. 93
Granite 32
Rail Road 32. 134
Races 40. 128
Regatta 41
Riding School 40
Reservoir of Plymouth Leat 30
Devonport Leat 70
— Stonehouse 60
Plymouth Baths 27
Victualling Office 54
Bovisand 102
Rivers of Dartmoor 163
Richmond Walk 67
Rame Head and Chapel 122
STONEHOUSE described 3 and 49 to 57
Supplement 58
STOKE described 89. 4
Supplement 92
Sound, Plymouth 2. 4. 8. 99
Shag Stone 103
Staddon Point 102
INDEX. 189 PACE.
Storm of November, 1824 101
Sutton Pool Harbour 31
Shipping of Plymouth 30. 31 . 176
Steam Packets 33, 175
Ships in Hamoaze 3
Steam Bridges 95. 97
Semaphore 67
Spa Waters ^ 27
Schools public and for the Poor, Plymouth 34. 35. 36
• Stonehouse 59
« Devonport 70
' Stoke 92
Sussex Place, Plymouth 13
SharrowGrot 123
Saltash 143
Saltram 125. 129
Sheviock 146
Shaugh Bridge 135
TOR POINT, and Bridge 3. 95
Theatre Royal, Plymouth 16
Town Hall, Devonport 63
Trade of Plymouth 30. 31
Stonehouse 58
Devonport • • . 74>
Tavistock, Abbey, &c . 152
Trematon Castle 144
Tui nchapel 126
Tunnel on Rail Road 134
under Morwell Down 151
Thanckes 143
Three Barrow Tor 141
Tamerton 148
Tamar River 5
Union Baths 7. 26
Union Street, Remarks on 15
Victualling Yard, Stonehouse 52
Workhouse of Plymouth 33
■ — Stonehouse • . • . • 58
- Devonport 70
190
Windsor Terrace, Plymouth 8
Water Company 60. 69
" Water Question" 30
Warleigh 149
Yealm River and Yealmpton 1 37. 138
A CHOICE AND VERY EXTENSIVE
COLLECTION OF
NEW AND OLD BOOKS,
IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF LITERATURE,
AND A LARGE STOCK OF
STATIONERY
OF EVERY DESCRIPTION,
FOR SALE AT REDUCED PRICES,
AT
E. NETTLETON's
(Printer to His Majesty and to H.R.H. the Duke of Sussex,)
STAMP-OFFICE,
WHIMPLE-STREET, PLYMOUTH.
L B N *?9
PLYMOUTH :
JNETTLETOK, PRIMTER,
WHIMPLE-STREET.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS •
■iiiiii
0 021 382 642 6