UMASS/AMHERST

m THE

NEW HAMPSHIRE

M?

A^MDEN'EMa

®» %. iE>. '^mM<

WITH .NUMEEOU3 ILLUSTRATIONS,

PETEilEORo':

Pu BLISHED BY K. C. SCOTT.
1852.

LIBRARY

OF THE

MASSACHUSETTS

AGRICULTURAL

COLLEGE

SOURCE

jGDlIe^:^—.- ^.UT\ci:

SB

t8U

This book may be kept out

TWO WEEKS

only, and is subject to a fine of TWO
CENTS a day thereafter. It will be due on
the day indicated below.

cfba

JUN2 0

^^

Libnu-y Uurean I 3 - 72 3

NEW HAMPSHIRE

liKil illli Ml IIIIM

GARDENER.

% @^ JB* #Sil!)^^<

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

PETERBORO':

PUBLISHED BY K. C. SCOTT.

1852.

(_ "5, 3

PREFACE.

The Author does not hi}' clami to entire originality
in the following pages, but acknowledges himself un-
der great obligations to many distinguished writers
upon Horticulture. In some few instances he has al-
tered the dates in the extracts, to suit the latitude of
New Hampshire. He also acknowledges the receipt
of many suggestions and valuable articles written ex-
pressly for the work. Due credit has been given for
all borrowed matter. He has endeavored to furnish a
book adapted to the wants and within the means of
every one. In the"Kitchen Gardener,"he has given full
directions for cultivating the various vegetables suited
to this climate, also recipes for cookuigthe same, which
he thinks will be appreciated in the kitchen and at the
table. In the "Fruit Gardener," the list of fruits is
not so large as to perplex the beginner in the selec-
tion of kinds, yet sufficiently extensive to include
nearly all of our best varieties. He hopes that the
directions for cultivation in this department will prove
satisfactory. In the "Floral Gardener," he has given
directions for the cultivation and a selection of the
most choice flowers that ornament our Parlors and
Gardens. His limits have compelled him to be concise,
yet he trusts that the directions are such as to produce
vegetables, fruits, and flowers, sufficiently perfect to
5;atisfy all reasonable expectations.

T II E

mmm iiii

PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.

The want of a small Garden Manual, suited to the
ti^.oil and climate of New-Hampshire, has been very
generally felt. There are, already, a large number of
Horticultural Works, Ijut most of them are adapted
to a clmiate farther South than New-Hampshire. —
Their expensCj too, as a general thing, renders their'
extensive introduction, a matter of considerable diffi-
culty. It is proposed, in this work, to obviate these
difficulties as far as practicable, by presenting the pub-
lic with a work whose cheapness places it within the
reach of every one, and yet, the directions of which,
shall be sufficiently copious for the successful cultiva-
tion of the Kitchen, Fruit and Flower Garden.

Situation of a Garden. — Perhaps a majority of those
into whose hands this work will fall, have already se-
lected their situation, and made their arrangements,
so that it would be a matter of inconvenience to
change the location ; but where this is not the case,
the selection of a situation is a matter of no inconsid-
i^rable importance, and should be assiduously attend-
ee! to. Cold winds should be guarded against, espec-
ially those l^lowing from the North, North-Ead^ and
Nd)ih-West. A full exposure to the sun is essential
for the production of most culinary vegetables, and to
obtain this, it is necessary to have the garden on a
gentle declivity to the south, bearing, perhaps, a little
to the east, that it may have the benefit of the morn-
ing sun. A northern aspect is to be avoided, except
for some few kinds of vegetables, which grow there

6

in greater perfection than anywhere else. Among
these are salads, spinach, cauVflmver, and some others.
Peas, also, in the hot, dry, summer m.onths, are here
produced in great perfection, long after they have
ceased to bear in warmer situations. Trees upon the
south side of the Garden are injurious as they cast
their shadows over it, w^heh vegetables require the
genial rays of the sun, and also, by their long taper-
ing roots, exhaust much of the goodness of the soil,
which should assist in the production of healthy and
l)ixuriant plants. Continued, dense vapors, have an
i^ajurious effect upon most garden vegetables ; there-
^re^ low grounds are unsuitable situations, and should
be.avoided. Taking these facts into consideration, no
one need hesitate as to the proper situation of a Garden.
Soil.— The principal soils to be avoided, are those
in which c/ay, or ^r«y<?/, is the chief constituent. A
clay subsoil, though six feet from the surface, from its
coldness, will retard the early crops a week or ten
d^ys; while on the other hand, a gravelly soil or sub-
soil, though it hastens early crops, is so subject to
drought during hot weather as to make it very un-
profitable. The proper soil, therefore, is a rich, deep,
friable loam with a sand subsoil. But where this can -
not be had, it is very desirable to improve that which
>ve do have, that it may be able to supply the w^ants
of plants. Clayey soils are cold and sour. To cor-
rect tjhem apply white sand, chalk, lime, or wood ash-
es. Turn the soil frequently, as frost and air have a
tendency to overcome this acidity. Waste lime about
old buildings in the shape of plaster and morter, and
fJsQ charcoal, have the same effect. To improve a
^andy soil, mix in clay, peat, or vegetable mould. The
mould best suited for renewing or improving land, is
the surface, to the depth of a foot, of some field or
road-side, which has lain fallow for a number of years
a^d has become perfectly matted with grass roots. —
This thrown into piles the year before use, ferments,
and makes one of the best (^^ garden soils.

Mancres. — The mauare heap; is the capital of the
Gardener. Care should be taken to augment it as
much as possible. With it, the gardener can do ever-
ything; without it, nothing. "If there is a large sup-
ply of manure, it will be best to mix it with the soil
whenever it may be spaded or trenched. A portion
shoald be incorporated with the substratum every
time it is dug over, so as to hasten its gradual improve-
ment. Another portion should be kept near the sur-
face, that the young roots may not have far to travel
in search of nutriment. Should the supply be small,
or not large enough to admit of this broadcast appli-
cation, put it in the hills or drills, for the large vege«
tables." But in every case, it ought to be thoroughly
incorporated with the soil, and if fermentation has
xiot taken place, this work should be done in Autumn,
so as to prevent the parching effects upon plants,
arisino; from fermentino; manures. There are several
kinds of manm^e valuable for horticultural purposea

Horse dune/. — This stands at the head, because
of its general use, and its superior fertilizing effecta
Its quality depends in a measure, upon the food given
the animal, and the care that is taken to preserve the
volatile matters of the m^anure by composting it soon
after it comes from the stable. Plaster of Paris, spread
upon it, retains the aminonia,that is in part expelled by
the decom])osition.

Coio dung. — This is colder than the dung of the
horse, and therefore, retains its virtue longer. It should
be housed rather than remain for months exposed to
the injurious effects of rain and the sun. It should,
also, be thoroughly mixed with loam, and remain un*
til it is fermented.

Pig dung. — This is an excellent manure for some
vegetables, especially, for corn and plants o^ the gourd
tnhe. It is not suitable for vegetables ihat are valued
for their roots, as it imparts a rank taste to them. A
pig n^ay be made to earn his living, by working up
^vnm sods, weeds, before their seeds havx? matured,

forest leaves, and the various refuse vegetable's about
the premises.

Giimw. — The Peruvian is the best. It is very pow-
erful and stimulating, and h, therefore, valuable for
forwarding early vegetables. It requires great cati-
tion in application, as otherwise, it destroys the plant
that it is intended to invigorate. By preparing it in
the following manner, it may he used with great ' ad-
vantage.

Before using guano, pass it through a fine sieve, and
all lumps remaining, break up, and these pass through
the sieve. Then take at least six times its bulk of
mould, or light loamy soil, and this pass through a coars-
er sieve,and mix it in layers with the guano. Over this
spread a thin coat of charcoal, or plaster of Paris, or
both. These are to retain tlie ammonia. Let this
compost remain a fevf days, then turn it over and
mix it well together, and then it is ht for use. Lime
and ashes must be avoided, as they rapidly expel the
ammonia, and in that way rob the compost of its most
valuable part.

When it is desirable to use it in a liquid form, put
one teacupful into four gallons of water. Stir it
well and cover the vessel tight to prevent the escape
of the anmionia, and let it remiaiu from one to three
days before being used. " Water aroimd,. vol vpor?,, the
plant, for if the liquid touches the plinit or its leaves,
it is liable to burn them. The compost should be ap-
plied around tlie plants, at the rate of a spoonful of
guano to a hill of corn, and to other plants in propor-
tion, and hoed in, so as not to come in immediate con-
tact \y it h the roots. Guano costs fvom 9s4-. to ^i]. per
hundred pounds.

, Poudrdtc. — This is very exciting and like guano,
well adapted to forwarding early crops. Care should
be taken to piirchase none but that of superior quah-
ty, for much of that ]iurchased by famners and gar-
deners is almost wortliless. From eight to ten Inish-
els Avill manure one acre of corn. Tliis is hi<r]dv rec-

ommendecl hy DoAvning for strawl)erri(^j^/aR H.alToi\]s
a permanent and powerful stimnlns, aiid is free from
weed seed. That nianufactnred ])y the Lodi Compa-
ny, has a very Iiigh reputation.

Hen and Pigeon dv.nrj. — These are actlve^and power-
ful fertilizers. Every farmer by taking a little pains,
can gather a considerable quantity hy properly man-
a«:ino; his Jienhouse. When o'athered it should be
mixed with plaster or charcoal dust to retain the am-
monia. When preserved in this way it is almost, if
not quite equal to the imported guo.no.

Charcoal — It should be applied in small lumps or
dust. It being porous, it has the power of a'osorj^ing
various gasses from the atmosphere, and, when subse-
quently placed in the soil, it readily yields them to
the plants. It also loosens tough soils, and, by its
black color, ii\creases their warmth. Its effect in Hqw-
er gardens is, perhaps, more marked and obvious, than
any where else, it giving a deeper color to everything
to which it is applied.

SaU.—Thh article of late years,liasbeen extensive-
ly used as a fertilizer. It should be sown broad-cast
or incorporated with other articles in the compost heap,
jtt.is especially adapted to the plum tree, sea-kale, as-
paragrass and plants of a like nature. It is said that
an asparagrass bed may be so covered as to kill all
weeds, and yet it proves beneficial to the asparagrasg?
producing larger, and more succulent sprouts* ",;

Bone Dust. — This article is peculiarly adapted to
ra^ising turnips, wheat and grass. It is an excellent
fertilizer to place about old Pear trees, where' -some of
the elements of the soil are so exhausted as to cause
.the^ fruit to crack, Horn shavings from comb manti-
fa^cturies have the same effect.

^.. Ashes- — These may be used, leached or unleached,
,with good effect, at all seasons and in all kinds of soils,
though th-ey best snit lands of a light, sandy, or gtaV-
dly nature. Every family makes more or less' of

10

these, so that they are easily obtained, and are of
great importance to the horticulturalist.

Lime. — This is a valuable article for the compost
heaps, as it causes very perfect fermentation, especial-
ly, if the chief ingredient of that heap be ^fallow soil,
that has|become matted with grass roots.

Plaster of Paris or GiJi^sum. — This is valuable for
most plants. It is used as a top dressing after hoeing.
It requires to be soAvn early so as to have the benefit
of moisture, and to insure its decomposition, where it
is used for a grass crop.

Compost Heap. — This may be made from fallow soil,
meadow mud, leaves gatliered under forest trees, re-
fuse vegetables about the garden, weeds before they
have gone to seed, lime (fee. Weeds may be covered
slightly in hoeing so as to kill them, but not so deep
as to prevent them from decaying, and in that w^ay
-enrich the ground. This should not be done when
they have gone to seed, as it would be multiplying
^our future labor.

The Tools and Tool House. — The old maxim, "A

place for everything, and everything in its place,*'

•should be strictly observed by the gardener. Of all

•men, he ought to economize his time. As soon as the

Spring opens, he has his grounds to prepare, his seed

to plant, his early plants to transplant and protect, and

^from that time till the crop matures, he has to make

a continual war upon insects and weeds. The waste

of ten minutes a day in hunting up tools, amounts \»

rf(* serious loss at the end of the year. Beside, if tools

are scattered about in various parts of a garden, they

.^'re subject to numerous injuries which they would

r^scape were they properly cared for. A very neat

tool house, and cheap one, too, may be made in the

centre of the garden, in the shape of an arbor, or sum-

jmer house. Over it, grape vines may be trained, and

in that way it may be made an object of convenience

vJ^nd beauty in the grounds. Boxes may be made for

),^ho , smaller tools, such as hoes, spades, rakes, water-

ing pots, trowels &c., under the seats in the arbor. —
The larger articles, such as Hot Bed frames and sash,
wheelbarrow &c., can be put into some other building.
Where the garden is not large enough to have a con-
venience like this, there should be a space allotted to
garden tools in some shed, barn or other out house. —
Proper hooks should be put up upon which to hang
ijhem, so that they may be out of the way. The
wooden part of the tools should be painted, and the
initials of the owners name, or the name itself, be
marked upon each. Tools, like sheep, will stray front
one lot to another, and should, therefore, be branded.
The steel parts should be cleansed before they are
put away, so that they may not be rusted dnd unfit
for use when wanted. A little care, bestowed in this
way, is amply repaid. Tools out of repair should be
mended before restored to their places.

Figure 1.

Hot Bed Frame and Sash.— Hot beds are necessary
in almost every New-Hampshire garden, where pe^
I)le intend to have early vegetables. In fact, there
are some kinds that cannot be raised in perfectitwi
Hvithout them. Among these are Cauliflower, Toii^^-
to, Egg-plant &c. The frame should be made of jitok
nine niches high in front, and eightem inches at the back.
Hie top should be so made, that the«aslican be shov-
6d up, as in the above cut, or raised by in^ei^ting a
\^M^e between the sash and frame at the back mde,

1-

to let olF the .steam tluit arises Irom the fermenting
manure. Thi,s^ if retahied too long, will have an in-
jurious effect upon the pliuits. The frame should be
made, about four feet wide and of any required length^'
The sash should be made stout, without any cross pie-
ces for the glass to rest upon. The glass should be
lapped, one over another, so that the rain may run off.
By carefully examining the cut, any joiner will be
able to make a suitable sash and frame.
,^]jGerman Hot Beds. — Take white cotton cloth, of a
close texture, stretch and nail it on frames of any
size 3^0 u wish; take two ounces of lime water, four
qmices linseed oil, one ounce white of eggs, two
ounces yolk of eggs ; mix the lime water and oil with
very gentle heat^ beat the eggs well, and mix with
the: former, and spread this mixture with a paint
brush oyer the cloth, allowing each coat to dry before
applying another. Pursue this course until the cloth
becomes water proof This may be used with good
effect, as we know by experience. It possesses the
following advantages over glass sash : —

1st The cost is hardly one-sixth.

2d Repairs are easily made.

3d No matter how intense the heat of the sun, the
plants are never struck down or burnt, or checked in
growth,neither do they grow up long and weakly; yet
there is sufficient light to produce green and hardy
plants.

4th The heat arising almost entirely from below,
is more equable^ and temp e,^q;te, which is a gr:e^t.,lien-
efit. ,'.'■'! ^'

, .ji']iey.,'arej very convenient for bringing forward
flowers in season for transplanting. We do not rec-
ommend them as an entire substitute for glass, m
raising ver?/ early plants.

Hand Glasses. — They are made of iron or wooden
sash and are pyramidal in form. They may he cov-
ered also with cloth, prepared as it is for the Ger-
ia;ni Hot Bed. They are used to protect Hot Bed

1.^

plants, during cold etormg and nights, 'vrhich follow
their transplanting.

Figure 2. Vme Shidil-These are small

frames, made of thin boards,
with a pane of glass in the
top. The \^ should be made with
a bevel as represented in the
cut, (fig. 2) so that they can
be packed away when they are not in use. They
can be covered with the Hot bed cloth and answer a
good purpose. They are used in protecting young
plants from the cold, and the attack of bugs.

Spades, — Every tool house should have at least one
good spade. No tool about the garden is of more im-
portance. Buy a good article, it costs but a trifle more
than a poor one.

Shovels and Forks. — Have at least one good shovel
and one good fork. These, properly taken care of,
will last for years. Forks are sometimes used as a
substitute for the spade, and with good effect when
the ground is wet, as it prevents the baking which fol-
lows the use of that tool.

Figure 3. Garden Troicel — The

Trowel is a very conven-
ient tool for transplant-
ing Tomatoes, Cabbages,
&c., as you can take up
A ball of earth large enough so as not disturb the
roots. Fig. 3, represents the proper pattern for use.

Wheelbarrow. — Every garden of any considerable
Bi»e, should have a good wheelbarrow made of light
but strong materials. It should be painted once a
year if used to a great extent.

DibUe. — This is 'used in transplanting tap-rooted
plants. It may be made of an old spade handle, sharp-
ened at the lower end, with several holes bored at va-
rious heights into which pegs may be placed to regu-
late its insertion into the ground.

14

Hoes. — These shouicl Ije made of different patterns
and sizes. Some broad, some narrow with tines on
the back, &c. Those with forks on the back are use-
ful for loosening soil around plants.

Brill Bakes. — These may be made with four, six or
ten wooden teeth, placed from ten to fifteen inches
apart. Draw the first drill by a line, then place the
outside tooth of the rake in this clrill, and e^o proceed
keeping the left hand tooth in the right hand drill, —
This does the work neatly .and very rapidly.

Geirehn RaJccs. — These should 1)e made of wrought
iron, the teeth 2 1-2 inches long and 2 inches apart.
The number of teeth may vary from ten to sixteen.

Weder (7r/r;'?'^;v— -This is a barrel placed between two
handles similar to those of a wheeh^arrow, with two
small wagon wheels in front,. With this a ])arrel of
water may be carried to any part of the garden willi
srreat ease and with o;reat economy of time.

Hand Cidtivedors. — These should be made of iron so
as to expand from ten to eighteen inches wide. These
are very convenient for drawing between garden veg-
etables, as they save the labor of several menwdth hoes.

Garelen Enr/incs. — These are made double and single
action pumps, double and single brakes, on four wheels
with tongue, and on tw^o wdieels with handles like
a barrow. They are extensively used in gardens, niu^-
series &c., and are sometimes found to afford very val-
uable assistance in case of fire, in a neighborhood dis-
tant from a larger engine, as they throw water to the
height of seventy or eighty feet, with considerable
force.

Miseellaneous Tooh. — -Under this head we place ma-
ny tools very valuable in a large garden, \vl The
><eed Soiver^ Bee I and Line for laying out beds and
walks, Watering-pots, Frnning Shears, Priminj Knife^
Garden S//rinr/e, Fruit Gatherer^ etc. d'c.

Prhparation of Soil. — Having described the soil suit-
'able for a garden, the various substances for enriching
it, and the implements to be used, we now proceed io

speak of the preparation ueceL^^ary to tit it tor the
priHirietion ot ealinary vegetables. Here let us add.
too much impoi'tance cannot be attached to having a
rich, deep, fria];)h3 ioani, resting upon a warm subsoil^
as upon this in a great measiu'e, depends the future
success of the gardener. Skill in cultivation cannot
overcome all the injurious effects arising from a poor
or cold soil. Having' a suitable soil, the, next thing of
.importance is io stir it deeply. Without mellowness
fioots are not able to penetrate it. Mr. Trull proved
that the roots of the common turnip e;ii:tended six
feet, although he couk| not trace them to that extent
with his naked eve. Mr, Downino- remarks, *'^I have
seen the roots of strawberries extend five feet down
in a rich soil; and those plants bore a crop of fruit
five times as large and tw^ice as handsome and good,
as the common product of a soil only one foot deep."
Another benefit of deep stirring is, it exposes the soil
to the action of the atmosphere. This, It is known,
contains some of the principal elements of vegetable
growth which it readily yields to a light and porous
soih "Such a soil permits the immediate escape of
water after heavy rains, and yet, by its capillary at-
traction furnishes a supply of moisture during a pro-
tracted drought. Pyy its friability, it is more capable
of absorbing heat during sunshine, and, " thereto i^,
more sensible of the early approaches of spring; and
jet, it radiates heat so rapidly, that the deposit of dew-
in the summer nights is greatly facilitated. These
latter two properties are very important, because the
warmth of the sun is necessary for the roots, and be-
cause the free deposit of dew protects them from the
fatal consequences of continued dry weather."

SiihsoU Plowinc/, — This is undoubtedly the best meth-
od to pursue when the ground is wanted for immedi-
ate use. It loosens very thoroughly the subsoil, and
yet leaves the ti ue soil on top. The objection to it,
is, that it does not enrich the soil to the depth re.O[uir«
^d to produce good vegetnblos.

16

Dmibk Plmiing. — This, on the whole, we consider
preferable to subsoiling, when properly done. The
manure should be spread upon the surface and turn-
ed in with a large plough. This should be followed
by a smaller one in the same furrow both moving the
ground from fourteen to sixteen inches deep. ^It should
then be cross-plowed. In this way a portion of sub-
soil is brought up and incorporated with the surface
soil and manure, and is enriched and made suitable to
nourish plants.

Tremhing. — lYhere you have a deep soil, this is un-
doubtedly the best of all preparation. Across one side
of the ground you intend for the garden, you make
with a spade, a trench two feet wide and two feet
deep. Shovel oat the bottom clean, throwing the
earth away from your future garden. You then take
another piece beside the trench, tw^o feet wide, and
put the earth that this new piece contains into your
former trench, the top soil at the bottom. Pursue
tills course until your garden be trenched. The last
trench you will have to till up with the soil that you
shoveled out of your first trench. Your garden soil
to the depth of two feet you will have completely
turned over.

Baslard Trenching. — When you have but a foot of
ffood soil on a sandv, ffravellv or clave v subsoil, it will
not do to pursue the former method. The surface
soil would be so poor that plants w^ould never be able
to throw out roots to reach that which would yield
them support. The method to be pursued in such a
case is this: — Commence upon one side and dig a
trench two feet wide and two feet deep, laying the
good soil in one pile, and the poor in another. Side
of this, commence another trench two feet wide and
throw the good soil ov€7' the first trench on to the oth-
er good pile. Spread manm^e in the first trench, and
then spade the poor soil of the second trench upon
it, and incorporate it w^ith it. Open the third trench
and throw your good soil upon the last poor soil which

17

was thrown into the first trench. Pursue tliis course
until you have gone through the bed, when you will
have left on the side where you commenced, the soil
and subsoil which you threw out of the first trench
and the good soil of the second. This you will be
obliged to convey by a wheelbarrow or otherwise, to
the last two trenches. In this w^ay, you will have
your poor soil loosened and enriched, and the same
soil on top that you had when you commenced.

This thorough spading should be performed once in
four or five years. Besides this there will be an an-
nual spading. Commence at one side of your ground
and open a trench the width and depth of your spade,
and fill it by opening another. Continue this until
the ground is all gone over. The work will be facili-
tated by digging in a straight line and of a uniform
depth. All lumps should be broken as you proceed
and the ground be well pulverized. Avoid spading
immediately after a rain, as the ground has a tenden-
cy to bake if worked when wet. We are aware there
is labor and expense in preparing ground in this man-
ner, but every one should bear in mind he is do-
ing a work that is to last years, and -that he will be
richly repaid for his labor in the increased vigor and
beauty of his plants.

Sowing and Propagation in general. — Propagation
of plants is effected in a variety of ways ; by seed,
suckers, offsets, layers and cuttings. Most garden
vegetables are propagated by seed; those that are
not, will be spoken of under the [^treatment of each
plant.

Having prepared the ground by spading or plowing,
the next operation is to top dress it. This is done by
raking it smooth and pulverizing all the lumps of
earth, so that the soil shall have an even surface. —
Then with a chain or line, lay out your ground into
suitable plats for your vegetables. Betw^een the
plats make a walk eighteen inches or two feet wide,
by treading the soil or by throwing it evenly over the

i8

«

ground, so that the walk shall be two or three inches
lower than the surlliee of tiie bed. Doing this work
neatly very muck improves the looks of the ground,
and as it occupies but a short time it should never be
nei!:lected. Havino; dressed the irround take a drill
I'ake and mark it otF into drills suitable for your seed.
The depth that seeds should be sown depends much
upon their size and character. Seed as large as peas
mail ^^^ planted as deep as two or more inches and
germinate, but those as small as celery planted to
that depth would probably remain there until their
vitality was destroyed, before sufficient warmth would
reach them to cause them to sprout. Having scatter-
ed the seed in the drills, the amount of which we shall
speak of under each article separately, gently press
the soil on to it, that every seed may be thomughly
covered with loam, for upon this depends its germin-
ating. This work should be done with care and neat-
Tiess.

"Broadcast sowing is deservedly falling into disrepute, for with
a gardener, its only recommendation is that of expedition at the
most hurried season. In reality, however, it causes an actual loss
of time. The plants must be thinned oat and transplanted at a
period when every ftioment should be spent in resisting the en-
croachments of weeds and insects. There is considerable risk in
this removal from the seed bed; the fibrous roots are broken and
injured so that unusual care is necessary in their protection, until
they become fairly established. The drill system is certainly much
inore tidy and convenient. The hoe can be used freely, while the
beneficial influences of light and air are efTectually admitted to the
leaves and soil. The good oftects will be discovered, not only in
the increased product and its improved quality, but also, in the
better preparation of the land for the succeeding crop.

A seed requires heat, air, and moisture to insure germination.
In the absence of either of these three conditions, it may remain
dormant for centuries. When waking into life, moisture is absorb-
>ed, the seed swells, the starch is converted into sugar, the germ
bursts its integuments, and the stem pushes its vvay towards the
surface, while the loot buries itself downward in search of nutri-
ment. Now, it is surely an object to hasten this process, for
thereby the crop will be accelerated, and the young plant sooner
placed beyond all danger of its enemies. The mere putting the
seed into the ground is not always sufficient. With certain kinds,
«t is w-ell known thntdnys, and even weeks, will elapse before the

11)

plant is developed;' by which uine the v/eeds may Jsave taken un-
disturbeil possession of the beds. Various steps h:ive been pro-
posed, for the purpose of hastening vegetation, among which are
sohitions of saltpetre, nitrate of soda, muriate of ammonia, sul-
phate of ammonia, guano, chloride of lime, sulphur, cV c. &.c. —
Tepid water answers a very good purpose. 'J'he length ef time
for each kind of seed to remain in the liquor, varies and must be
determined, together with many other things of equal importance,
by experiment. If suffered to remain too long, putrefaction will
commence, which either weakens or destroys the vitality of the
germ. We do not think it prudent, as a general ihimr^ to delay
sowing after the seed swells and gives unmistakable signs of
sprouting. — P. ^. Schenck, ■

Care is necessary after sowing to ensure perfect
plants. The ground may be so dry as to abstract the
moisture from the sprouted seed and thereby destroy
it, or it may be so wet and cold as to cause it to de-
cay. These two extremes should be avoided.

The folio win o; was furnished us bv a distin2:uished
New Hampshire Gardener :

^^To start Seeds quick. — Pulverize the bed where you
sow, make it level with a board, put on the seed as
even as possible and sift on just enougli dirt to cover
it ; spread a rug or old cotton bag over the bed and
water with boiling water from a waterpot. Take off
the rug at night as soon as the sprouts appear which
will sometimes be in forty-eight hours if the rug is'
well wet."

Saving Seeds. — Every beginner is obliged to depend
upon his neighbors, or some Seedman, for his seed.
This is a point in regard to which, he ought to use
great caution, as he is liable to be deceived as to the
sort, its gemdnencss and soundness. To avoid disappoint-
ment, purchase of a Seedman of known probity. He
may, at times, be deceived, for he cannot raise all of
his seed, but by buying of such a one, your chance is
greater of getting seed which is good. After you
have got plants which are true to their kind, you
should endeavor to save your own seed. There are
some few kinds, which you will have to depend upon
the Seedman for, as they are seldom raised in this
country. In raising seed, remove those of the same

20

specie? as far apart as possible, for it is a well attested
fact, that if two different varieties of a vegetable are
permitted to blossom at the same time, within a short
distance of each other, they intermix, and produce a
hybrid partaking of the character of both parents. —
The fertilizing dust of the stamens in the flowers of
one plant, is conveyed by the wind or insects to the
pistils in the flowers of the other. The distinctive
features of each are thereby lost, while the new vari-
ety may not possess a single point to make it worthy
of cultivation. For instance, you set out an early
Dwarf and a Drum-head cabbage side by side for their
seed. One you value for its extreme earliness, the
other for its lateness and its winter keeping quality.
Having raised a fine lot of seed, you plant it the en-
suing year, but instead of Early Dwarf, you have a la-
ter cabbage of a coarse quality, partaking perhaps,
more of the character of the Early Dwarf than any
thing else, but yet not the true kind ; and instead of
the Drum-head, you have a cabbage that ripens earli-
er and does not keep so well as that which is true to
its kind, so that you are disappointed in both.

This fact is of great importance to the gardener,
and should be strictly observed. Those who have but
a small piece of ground, will not be able to raise a
large variety of seed the same year, nor is it necessa-
ry. Many kinds of seed keep a number of years, so
that the gardener can raise of one variety of a genus,
sufficient to last as long as the seed will keep and re-
tain its vitality. For instance, he can raise this year
at one side of his garden, his Cauliflower seed ; at the
other his Savoy Cabbage seed. Next year, he may in
the same manner, raise his Sugarloaf and Battersea
Cabbage seed, and in this way go through the whole
Brassica tribe. So also of the Cuciimis or Gou7^d tribe.
But it is better to raise only one kind where there is
danger of hybridizing, and depend upon some Seed-
man of kuown honor for your others.

*^0f such varieties as you select for seeding, choose

21

ilie best plants only, — tlio.'se which are hedth y, and
ha\'e tlien* peculiar characteristics most perfectly de-
veloped. To insure earliness, only the most forward
})lants should be taken." Plant them out in rich soil,
and if the weather becomes very dry, a moderate wat-
ering should be given. When the seed stocks have
become long and heavy, they should be tied to a stake
with bass matting, to stay them and preserve them
during severe vfinds. As the seed ripens gather with-
out unnecessary delay, otherv/ise the seed will be scat-
tered upon the ground. Select only the finest look-
ing pods. In this way your varieties may be improv-
ed. Having perfectly dried them in some shady place,
thresh out the seed and winnow the chaff and poor or
defective seed away, then pack in paper bags and put
them in some dry and cool place to remain until wan-
ted. Each bag should be labeled with the name and
when raised^ thus: "Early American Cauliflower, 1852."

The vitality of ^eeci with good care can be depended
upon for the following periods: —

Carrots, Parsnips, Rhubarb and other thin scaly
seeds,— for one year.

Balm, Basil, Beans, Cress, Lavender, Leeks, Qmons,
Peppers, Peas, Savory, Sage, Salsify, Tomato, Thyme,
and small herb seed, — for two years.

Asparagus, Egg-plant, Indian Corn, Lettuce, Mar-
joram, Mustard, Parsley, and Spinach, ^ovthree.year$*

Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Radish, Sea-Kale, and Turnip, {ov four years.

Beet, Celery, Cuciunber, Melon, Pumpkin, and
Squash, fvomfive to ten years.

Early Plants. — There are several vegetables, which,
owing to the shortness of our Spring and Summer,
cannot be successfully raised if planted in the open
ground. It is desirable, therefore, to have early
plants. A cheap way to obtain them, is, to plant seed
in a flower-pot and set them in a warm kitchen .win-
dow, where they will have the benefit of the sun.—
By giving the plants suflicient light and fresh air, you

'T2

may forwaid your cmps irom two to four weeks. Op-
erations of this kind, of necessity must be of a limit-
ed character.

Hd Bed^.— [:nc[ev the head of '^Took md Tool Ilovse;'
i\^e have spoken of the frame and sash necessary for
the covering of a Hot Bed. In this article we pur-
pose to speak of the making of the bed, its materials,
and its after management. There are several sub-
stances emploj^ed to produce artificial heat, among
which, are, grass, Tanner's spent bark, leaves, and
green manure. Unfermented horse manure is un-
doubtedly the best article in use. Heat is generatedj
hy its fermentation. To produce this, air and moist-
ure are necessary. Throw the manure into a conical
shaped pile, and if the weather is cold or stormy, cov-
er it with Utter. After it has lain in this condition
tliree or four days, it should be shaken over and piled
again, and if any part should appear dry, it should be
watered. Pursue this course until the larger part of
the straw is browned. The object is to get rid of the
violent heat and vapor that arises. Care should be
taken that this process is not carried too far, as there
would not be sutHcient heat left to force the plants
and give them a good, healthy appearance. Having-
prei>ared your manure, mark the size of your frame
upon the grounrl, and then with a fork spread the ma-
nure so that it shall project six inches beyond each
side of the frame. Pursue this method, beating each

'layer with the spade, until the pile is from two to four
feet high according to the season of the year, and the
plants to be foiled, if the weather is dry and warm,

t it will require less thnn if it is wet and cold. If the

'• heat becomes exhausted, it may be restored in a mea-
wu^e, by a "linmg". First, cut the manure even with
the frame and remove it; make some holes through
the bed, and then with manure that is just beginning
t6 heat, fill these places vand also those caused by the

•removal of the- manure upon the outside of the frame.

28

In tills way, slioukl tlie weather prove unfavorable//
you can continue the lieat any length of time.

Having prepared your bed, put three or four inch-
es of good rich loam or decayed turf upon it, and place
the frame and sash over it. In three or four days the''
loam will be sufliciently warm to receive the seed.—
The plants of most seed will very soon appear in hot
beds and care must be used in order that they may
liave sufficient light and air, otherwise the plants will
draw up long and weakly, and will not be worth trans-
planting. A stocky, green plant is the kind to be de-
sired ; and the only way to produce it, is by giving
an abundance of air. The upper side of the sash
should be raised sufficiently to let the vapors arising
from the manure, escape.. The sash may be shoved
up or down fi*om one to four inches, according to the
weather. If it be mild and warm, they should be ta-
ken off during the day, that the plants may become
seasoned to the atmosphere so they "will bear trans-
planting. By giving an abundance of air, there is no
trouble in raising good plants, but care should be ta-
ken that there are no sudden changes in the atmos-
phere of the bed, as that tends to stunt the growth x)f
the plants.

When the plants are an inch high, it is a 'good plan
to transfer them to small earthen pots that have a
hole in the bottom. Put some earthern shreds in it
that the pot may be well drained, and also, that the
ball of earth may be easiH^ pushed from the pot with-
out disturbing the roots of the plant wdien it is desi-
rable to transplant them to the open ground. The
pots should be plunged to their rims m the loam of
the hot bed. Some make botes in tiie -giK)mid so as
to have the loam when the bed is finished even with
the surface of the ground, but these beds are liable to
be effected by damp and inj iirious vapors, so that the
plan of building above ground is to be preferred. If any
•oae chooses, he can make a })ox aroiuid tiie manuj-e

24

which answers a better puipo.^e than to place the ma-
nure hi the ground.

Transplanting. — Most gairdeners recommend that
transplanting be done just before a rain. It should
never be done while the ground is wet, as it causes it-
to bake down and .prevents the plants growing, till
the ground is stirred when it is dr/j, J\Ir. Cobbett rec-
ommends that transplanting be done in warm, dry
weather, and says, ^'Therc is a fermentation that takes
place, immediatel}' after niovmg, and a dew arises,
which did not arise before. These greatly exceed, in
power of causing the plant to siriJce^ anything to be
obtained by rain on the plants at the tune of plant-
ing, or by planting in wet earth/' We have trans-
plaiited several hundred strawberry plants in one of
the dry est and hottest times in August without the
loss of a single plant. We stirred the earth deeply
with a spade, and with a trowel, moved- the plants from
their original places to the trench. ^lere we pressed
the mellow loam about the roots, and then with a pair
of shears removed all the leaves that had expanded,
leaving only the eye of the plant to produce . new
leaves. This last operation v^e regard as very essen-
tial. There is a constant evaporation of the juices of
the plant through the pores of the leaves, and if this
takes place before the fibrous roots have taken hold
of the soil, the strength of x}\q plant is exhausted and
it dies or lingers out, at best, a sickly existence. Un-
der the above treatment the new leaves quickly e:ji-
pand giving healthy and vigorous plants.

We urge upon gardeners, the necessity of stirring
the ground just before transplanting, and of pressing
the soil upon the roots even to the ends, other^yise
the roots exposed to the air under ground soon moidd
and decay. Tlie trowel should be used and a small
l)all of earth be taken up when possible. If the plants
are simply drawn out of the ground, they should be
dipped in a semi-fluid mass of covr-dung and water,
?iud be inserted in a liole made bv n dibble, and then

25

tho c]i])l)lo prosf=^(3tl flown nil inoli from the side of tlio
hole (bat nil of tlie roots shall come in contact with
the soil. Should the weatlicr be very warm nnd dry
it may be necessary to protect the plants Avith vine
shields durmg the hottest part of the first two or three
days, and give them a watering with tepid water just
before snndown.

Rotation of Crops. — There are a few vegetables that
are produced in perfection upon the same soil year
after year, but they are exceptions to the general rute.
The onion tril^e is an instance of this. Most plants,
how^ever, require a change of soil to prevent their de-
generating and becoming liable to the attack of insects
and various diseases. ^'When one particular element
of aveo^etable is removed from the soil, the ve2:etable
cannot again be raised there, nntil that element be re-
stored. It is, therefore, advisable to alternate the crops,
by wdiich means the land will have an opportiuiity to
regain its original strength and fertilit}^ If old pastures*
were to be attentively observed, it would be found
that the grasses giadupJly change from season to. sea-
son; and in w^oodiand, it would be discovered, that an
entirely different kind of tree takes the place of such
as have decayed, or have been cut down."

Yegetables, therefore, of the same species should
not follow each other, but return- at as distant inter-
vals as the case wdll allows "Tuberous or tap roots
should be succeeded b}^ those of a fibrous character;
perennials by annuals, and plants of a dry, solid text-
ure, or those left for seed, by such as are succulent
and juicy."

, If every gardener should pursue this course, thor-
oughly spading and manuring his grounds, we should
hear less of varieties degenerating.

20

BESTRUCTlOiN OF VERMIN.

"A feeble race! yet oft
Tiie sacred sons of vengeance; on whose course
Corrosive Famine wails, and kills the year."

"Nothing is more vexatious and discouraging for the gardener,
than to see the objecs of his care actually swept away by vermin
of all kinds and sizes, -of whose habits he is wholly ignorant, —
•unless their paitiality for tender vegetables be excepted. He
may have labored diligently for weeks perhaps months; yet in a
vsingle night, his choicest plants will be destroyed. Of the whole
vegetable kingdom, there is scarce a useful member which is not
liable to these attacks at different stages of its growth. Some
vermin prey upon the root, others choose the stem and branches,
^ third class prefer the leaves, a fourth select the flowers, while
a fifth reject everything but the fruit or seed. For example; if
the seed of the common turnip is so fortunate as to escape a mi-
•nu't-e weevil, another enemy awaits the unfolding of the firsrt
leaves; another buries itself in the bulb or rootlets, so that they
•become diseased, and covered with unseemly excresences; and
the mature foliage falls the prey of caterpillars. It is, therefore,
the duty of the gardener to study the character and habits of these
•depredators, so as to guard against their attacks. The reader
who may desire a thorough acquaintance with the subject, must
refer to works of greater pretensions than this volume. We
have room for only a few practical hints.

An ounce of prevention is said to be worth a pound of cure and
thestudent will naturally fiist inquire for the best inc.des of pro-
tecting his plants. This will in a measure be secured by high
tiulture, — having the ground rich, sowing healthy seed, and has-
tening the maturity of the crop. As the young stems and leaves
are sweetest, so are they most liable to injury; and everything
that accelerates their grovv^tli, adds to their security. It is the
policy of some cultivators to turn over the soil late in autumn, in
order that the grubs and insects which have taken up their winter
quarters may be exposed to the action of frost. We are acquain-
ted with many gardens which have tlius been almost entirely rid
of these pests. The application of salt at the rate of two or
'three bushels per acre, in spring, or the occasional use of strong
brine, is highly recommended; but, salt is a very powerful agent,
and in every form must be applied with caution, lest vegetation
should also be injured. Rolling or pressing the surface of the
ground compactly, after sowing, is an excellent plan, as the flies
are thereby deprived of hiding places around the little lumps of
•dirt.

Reproduction should be prevented as much as possible. W^hen
crushing a grub under foot, or stifling a beetle, the gardener less-
lens the number of his enemies by millions in embryo. The
aphides, or plant lice, multiply with astonishing rapidity, and s.

27

single butterlTy has been estimated to produce thirty milliorid of
descendants at the third generution! TIk; butf cii\y, which is the
parent of destructive caterpillars, will deposif iLs e;^rga upon pie-
ces of woolen cloth laid upon currant bushoi or around cabban^e
plants. It is even good policy to einploy litUe boys and girls iiv
this work, giving thenn a bounty on every worm, chrysalis, moth
or nest of eggs, which they may discover. Children have \eiy
sharp eyes when their industry is stijiiulated by hopes of a pecu-
niary reward. Large gardens have thus been kept ^ree from ver-
min at the annual cost of a few shillings. Bonfires of shavings or
brush, just after twilight in the evening, will attract and destroy
immense numbers of flying beetles.

The next inquiry will be, what is to be done after the vermin,,
in spite of all the above precautions, have actually made their
appearance. The war against them must be vigorously proseca-
ted. The most certain, and therefore the best mode of attack, is
by hand-picking; but, the difficulty of capturing the minute and
most agile insects by the fingers, will prevent its general adop-
tion. However repulsive may be its personal appearance, the
common toad is a very valuable assistant in this work. The wri-
ter who termed it "the most deformed and hideous of all animals, "^
could scarcely have known its use in the vegetable garden. Its
eye is active, and its long, viscid tongue moves so rapidly, that it
will destroy twenty or more wood-lice in two or three minutes. —
It lives almost entirely upon small worms and insects, and in a
very unostentatious and quiet manner relieves the cultivator of
many of his most troublesome enemies.

But, still other plans are required. These are numeroas; such
as dusting the plants, when covered with moisture, with soot, ash-
es, charcoal, sulphur, road-dust, powdered hen-dung, air slacked
lime, etc.; or watering them and the ground with soap-suds, so-
lutions of saltpetre, guano, hen-dung and whale oil soap,* decoc-
tions of tobacco and elder, etc.; or fumigating them with sulphur
and tobacco. Soap-suds from the wash-room is excellent for this
purpose, and it likewise proves an excellent fertilizer. Whale
oil soap is very cheap and efficient; care must be taken, howev-
er, not to make the solution too strong, lest it injure the plants. —
Of soap of an average quality, one pound may be put to seven
gallons of water; but, as its strength varies much, the gardener
should determine the proportions by experiment.

We have long used a solution of hen-dung with success, and
we recommend it because it is always easily obtained. We have
a tub standing in a convenient part of the garden, and, at the
time when the insects are expected, put in the bottom about one

"* To make\]Vlmlc OIL Soa;?.— Taka eighteen pounds of potash and 'thirty
pounds of foot oil, and mix them together in a barrel- Every other day add
twelve quarts of boiling water, and stir the whole for a few minutes every'day,
until the barrel be full, when the mixture will be fit for use.

28

bushel of iien-dung, upon wl'ich wt; poui' several paikful of boil-
ing water. When the niixture has become semi-tiuid, by fre-
quent stirring, we fill the tub up with. water. Alter reinainiisfr
twelve' hours lonirer, the liquid sliould be of a dark green color,
and somewhat ofiensive to the nostrils, as upon that particular de-
pends its t'lficacy. It may then be cauiiou5>ly applied upon njelon'
and cabbage hills, and, in fact, every place liable to the attacks
of insects.

We also make use of the vine-shield, (Fig. 2,) which not only
protects the phut, but greatly accelerates its growth. Could the
scratching' propensities of poultry be restrained, tiieir assistance
would be of no little value. Broods of young chickens will ,do
much good, — the hens being conrined, and the chicks suflered to
roam over the beds; as soon, however, as their claw.s become
- troublesome, a new brood should take their place. Whatever
-jmode may, be adopted, much depends upon the time wl.en opera-
itions are commenced. The moment the enemy appears, the jjig-
jjal or a general onslaught should be given. By such piompt ac-
tion only, may the cultivator have cause to expect u crop." — P.
%fi. Schcnck.

VEGETABLES.

^'Artichoke, (Jerusalem.) Helianihus Tuherosus. — -Early in
the spring (last of April, )is the proper time for planting the Jeru-
salem Artichoke, and, being of a very hardy nature, it will thrive
in any situation, and even in a soil of an ordinary kind. It is not
easily eradicated when once introduced into a garden. It is prop-
agated in the same manner as the potato, by planting the .bulb or
tuber in rows about a yard asunder, and nine or ten inches distant
from each other in the row, covering thein with three inches depth
of earth. The ground should be well manured for them, and no
further, trouble is required, except to keep them clear from weeds,
land give a light digging between the rows." — Kilc/i. Sf Fruit Gar.

, I^ an agricultural point of view, this plant deserves' a
vtigh position. Its hardiness and great productive-
ness,(for it is said that it sometimes produces more than
two thousand bushels per acre,) should cause it to be
more' extensively cultivated. It is valuable for cattle,
sheep and hogs, and also for table purposes.

To. Fickle. — Take those only which are fair, and
poiir. upon them hot vinegar which has been previ-
ously spiced, and let it stand till cold. Kepeat the
operation two or three times.

Asparagus. Asparagus afficinalls. — This is onp of the
most valuable garden ^ .^ tables, rc^iembling in flavor

2Q

green peas and coming as it does when there are go
few vegetables to be had, it should be found in every
garden. It is propagated by seed and by separating
old roots. The former way is preferable though it
will be longer before it is fit for use since the plants
require to be three or four years old before they will
do to crop.

**The seed — oua oz. being sufficient for 900 or 1000 plants, —
id to be thinly sown, in drills sixteen inches apart, early in the
spring — say from about the middle of April to the beginning of
May, due regard beiiig had to the forwardness of the season. —
Cover the seed about an inch and a half deep. If the weather
continue dry, the ground ought to be covered with straw or brush
during the middle of the day, until germination takes place. Or,
water may be frequently applied in small quantities, until the same
end is accomplished. When the young plants are a few inches
high, they must be thinned out to distances of six or eight inches
in the drill. The surface should be kept open and free from weeds.
By the middle or latter part af November, remove the withered
stalks, by cutting them down close to the ground, and then cover
the bed with two inches of rotten dung, overlaid by coarse stable
litter. This protection not only saves the roots from being injur-
ed by the frv-^.st, but secures a vigorous growth during the next
summer." — Sclie7ick's Gardener's Text-Book.

*'In the making of AspTnigus beds, the chief point to be con-
sidered is to make choice of a proper soil; choose the best which
the garden atfords; it must not be wet, nor too strong, nor stub-
born, but such as is moderately light and pliable, so that it will
readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that
enjoys the full sun. The ground intended for Asparagus beds
should have a large supply of rotten or other good dung, laid sev-
eral inches thick; it should then be regularly trenched two or
three feet, and the dung buried equally in each trench as the
progress goes on. The ground being made level, it should be di-
vided into beds, four feet and a half wide, with paths two feet
wide between bed and bed. Four rows of Asparagus should be
planted in each bed, and ten or twelve inches distance to be al-
lowed between plant and plant in the row, letting the outside rows
of each bed be nine inches from the edge; or tiSey may be plant-
ed only in single rows, tw(3 feet and a half apart, or in narrow
beds containing two rows of roots only. It is of very great im-
portance for ensuring success in the planting of Asparagus to lift
the roots carefully, and to expose them to the air as short a time
as possible. No plant feels an injury in the root more keenly
than Asparagus, and, from the b(;ittlenes3 of the roots when they
are once broken, they do not readily shoot again." Comp. Gard.

30

"At the approach of winter, v.hen their natur;.'l season of
growth is over, the tops vviH turn white, and they tnay then be cut
down close to the ground. Cure should be observed not to do
this while they are at all green, bec;njse in that case the roots are
likely to sprout again. The dead .stalks, and all weeds — if any
there be found, can either be gathered into a pile and burned, or
else be taken to the compost heap or pig pen, to be subsequently
returned to the ground in the sliape of manure, "^rhe bed ought
now to receive a thin top-dressing of good, rotten dung, about
three inches thick, together with a covering of leaves, liller, or
even a little rich soil. This is the only way to ensure a healthy
growth of the roots in tho coming year.

In March or April of the following spring, as soon as the frost
leaves the ground, and before the buds are expected to start, re-
move the covering, and dig the surface of the bed with the fork,
in order to mix the old manure Vi'ith the soil, as well as to admit
heat and air to the roots. The tines of the fork ought not to be
inserted to a greater depth than three or four inches, lest the
crowns of the roots be injured. This havmg been properly done^
the next thing is to rake off the heavy clods and stones into the
alleys. Owing, to its marine character, Ihe asparagus plant re-
ceives decided benefit from frequent and liberal applications of
common salt. It is best applied at this season of the year, .spread
thinly upon the surface of the bed, and then raked under. A
smaller quantity may be given some two or three limes afterwards
during the summer. Many gardeners recommend the ure of brine
of the strength of sea-water, to be sprinkled upon the ground ev-
ery fortnight or three weeks through the growing season. There
is but little danger of making the ground too rich; some caution
must be observed, however, in the opplication of salt, as by its
injudicious use several fine plant.itionsj are snid to have been de-
stroyed. In cur own garden, all we dare do, is to sprinkle on
just enough to n.ake the ground look white, as though a light
snow haa fallen.

This course of management for the spring and winter dress-
ings, must be pursued annually so long as the bed remains. In
summer, the only culture necessary is to keep the soil in good
tilth. In dry seasons, a regular application of water at stated in-
tervals will prove of decided benefit, securing a vigorous and un-
interrupted growth. No portion of the crop ought to be gathered
previous to the fourth season after the sowing of the seed."

*'To cook. — In the first place, cut oft' the tough, white part of
the stalks, in such manner that they may be of nearly equal
length. Put them into small bundles, and boil them from fifteen
to twenty minutes according to their age. The addition of a
quarter-teaspoonful of salaratus to three quarts of the water, will
preserve the fresh, green color of the asparagus. A little salt
should be put in the stew pan. Toast a large slice of bread, and

31

lay it in the bottom o{ a vegetable dish. Then moisten the toast
with a little water from the slew pan, and butter it. When the
asparagus is taken up and drained, it is to be laid on tise toast,
and the strings removed. Serve with melted butter, and salt to
the taste." — Gardener^s Text-Book.

Balm. 31elissa Officinalis. — Balm is a liarcly peren-
nial, having a very fragrant odor. "It may be prop-
agated by seed, by offsets of the roots and by slips of
the young shoots. The first two modes can be prac-
ticed either in Spring or Autumn, but slips are gener-
ally found to succeed best when they have been set
out in the latter part of spring." It grows best on a
poor friable soil and needs no manure. It is used as
a trimming for meats and for medicinal purposes, —
The Lemon is usualty preferred.

Bean. Viciafahd. — There are two distinct species
of the Bean, the viciafahaov English bean and j'V^a^e-
olus or kidney bean. These species require entirely
difibrent treatment. The English, the most common
vaiieties of which, are, the Early Mazagan^ Lcikj Pcd,
Broad Windsor and Green Nonpar cil, are very hardy,
and ma}^ be sown very early as spring frosts do not
injure them; they also produce more certain crops
when soAvn early. They succeed well by being sov/n
in the fall. They require a stiff moist loam with a
considerable proportion of clay. Sow thinly in drills
two feet apart. Gather them for use while young
and tender. These are usually inferior with us to the
class of kidney beans.

Bean. Phaseolus vnlc/aris. — ^The class of kidney
beans is so extensively known and cultivated as hard-
ly to require a notice here. They are called kidney
beans in contradistinction to the English bean, or vi-
da fala. There are a large number of kinds of the
dwarfs, and also of the runners or pole bean, of this
variety. Some of the most popular of the dwarfs,
are, the Early Yelloiu Six Weeks, ' Early IloJiaiuk which
is not injured by a smart frost. Early Casehiife, Early
Dwarf HorticuUurcd, Early Valentiney and the Divarf
Red zxiA White Cranberry.

Kidney Dwarfs should be planted as soon as the
danger of frosts is over, in light rich soil, three or
four in a hill or in drills two or three feet apart. Let
them be carefully hoed, drawing the earth around the
stems a very little at each time.

Of the pole beans or runners, the White Casehiife^
London Horticultural^ and the Red and White Cranlerry^
are perhaps the most popular in this State. They are
all worthy of cultivation. Pole beans should be plan-
ted in hills two feet apart, putting four or five beans
in a hill, and leaving a space in the centre for the pole.
They should not be planted till all danger of frost is
past, as they are more tender than the dwarfs. When
the runners begin to start they should be trained to
the pole. More the ground frequently in dry weath-
er and keep it free from vfeeds. It should be well en-
riched with fermented manure.

The Lima Beans which are very popular in some
other states do not succeed well in this, and therefore
are cultivated only with the assistance of a Hot Bed.
To hoil String Beans. — Take oif the strings and cut
the beans into short pieces. Boil them with a little
salt, from twenty to forty minutes, according to their
age. A little salaratus in the pot preserves their
green color and makes them more healty. They aught
to be quite tender before taken from the fire. Add
salt, butter, and a little sweet cream, and they are
ready for the table.

Shell Beans, — These are cooked in the same way
either with or without the salaratus.

"To haliC White Beans. -^Vick them over carefully
and at evening put them in a slightly warm place. —
Put a quart of Avater to a pint of beans. The next
morning rinse them well in tw^o or three waters, and
boil them ten or fifteen minutes ; at the end of which
time take them up with a skimmer and lay them in
a baking dish. Put in the centre a piece of salt pork,
having the rind scored, with the top just exposed ;
and then pour in cold water so that it may be seen

S3

at the sides of the dish." Add a little salaratus and
Fiigar or moias^ies. Bake them in a hot brick oven
from three to six hours.

Beet. Beta vulgarins. — The principal kinds of beets
cultivated for the kitchen, are Earh/ Taniip-rooied
Blood Pted, Long Blood Red and YfHiTE ScfGAR.

"Beets delight ia rich yellow ground, having been manured for
the previous crop. Sow the seeds in drills one inih d-^ep and four-
teen inches apart; cover them up and tramp firm. Tli« turnip
rooted can be sowed as soon as the frost is out of the ground in
spring, for summer use, and the long blood in June for v/inter
use Hoe well between the rows, and keep free from weeds.—
When the plants are two inches high, thin them out to four inches
apart. Dig up the roots before hard frost in fall, put them in the
ciillar among dry earih, and plant out a few of the best in spring
to raise seed. — Walter Elder.

To PicMe. — Wash your beets and boil them before
scraping as scraping tends to bleach them in the boil-
ing. When they are boiled tender, cut them in slices
and pour upon them cold spiced vinegar.

BaoccoLi. Brassica oleracea, var. — "This is a species of cab-
bage with long leaves and cheese like heart, which is very tender
and delicious. Sow in drills half inch deep and six inches apart,
in June: transplant int§ rows thirty inches apart each way in Au-
gust, and use the hearts when they become full grown, which will
be in October and November. The leaves are not for use. Broc-
coli delights in rich loam, and is best in wet seasons." — Cottage
Garden.

It is a very wholesome vegetable. The Purple Cape
and Large White are the desirable varieties. It is pre-
pared for the table in the same way that Caidiflovjer
is, which see.

Cabbage. Brassica oleracia Capilata. — The kinds
most valued for early eating are the Early York, Ear-
ly Sugarloaf, Early Battersea and Early Oxheart; the
latter is somewhat tender as regards frosts.

"Cabbage seed, for a very early crop, should be sown in a hot
bed in March; give plenty of air, and thin out the plants, that
they may grow strong. When the plants are four or five inches
high, they should be transplanted, if the weather is mild, into the
open ground, in rows two feet apart, and about fifteen inches
apart in the row; m^ke the ground rich and light, and set them
firmly; as they grow, give frequent hoeings, and keep clear of

34

weedd. Those who have no hot beds, should sow in the open
ground early in May, which will bo soon enough for a genera!
crop."

The Drumhead, Bergen, Drumhead Savoy, and
Curled Savoy are the varieties most esteemed for win-
ter use.

*'They need not be sown until tlie middle of May; sow in drills
or broadcast, in beds properly prepared, and thin out as soon as
they are one inch high; transplant them in June, in rows two feet
apart. Those who wish to preserve their cabhages through the
winter, should take them up in dry weather, and plant them down
to the leaves, and close together, in a dry, sheltered spot. The
whole must be covered securely with straw and boards, to keep
off rain."

Or a trench may be made into which the cabbages
may be placed heads down and the whole covered
with earth. It should be in a dry place where water
will not be likely to settle in large quantities upon
them. They will keep good and fresh until spring.
Red Cabbage makes an excellent pickle.

Carrot. Daiiciis. — The kinds best for garden cul-
ture, are, the Early Horn, and Long Orange.

"Sow in drills half ii:ch deep and fourteen inches apart. The
early horn can be sowed as soon as, the ground is fit to dig in
spring, for summer use, and ihe long orange in June, for fall and
winter use. Cover the seed, and tramp the earth firm on them.
When the plants are two inches high, thin them to three inches
apart, hoe between the rows and keep clear of weeds. Late in
fall dig them up, and put them in the cellar among the dry earth;
and in spring plant out a i^w of the best for raising seeds." — The
Cottage Garden.

''Cauliflower. Brassica oleracca, var. boiryfis. — The cauli-
flower is one of the most delicate and curious of the whole of the
brassica tribe; the flower buds foiming a close, firm cluster or
head, white and delicate, for the sake of which the plant is cultiva-
ted."— Jlmerican, Gardener.

The varieties most cultivated in this State are the
Early American and the* Large Late.

"The cultivation of this is the same as cabbage, but the crop is
not so sure; it being more affected by climate. The scorching
rays of the sun in dry we;ither are nbt favorable to it and land
;hat is very rich, deep, and stands the drought well, is the best for
(ts cultivation. When the plant begins to flower the leaves should

35

be broken or bent over it to shade the flower rnd water freely ap-
plied about the roots. It is said that when the plarjt does not flow-
er ill the field th;it it will in th(^ winter if well sot out in a damp
cellar." — Bij a JS'ew Hampshire Gardener.

To Prepare Caidifloiuers. — Take off the centre leaves;
round such as are young leave j ust one leaf; put them
with some salt and a little milk into boiling water ;
boil according to size, from fifteen to twenty minutes ;
try the stalk with a fork and when the stalk feels ten-
der and the fork is easily withdrawn, the fiower is
done. Take up instantly with a wire ladle and serve
with butter sauce.

Celery. ' Apiwn graveoleiis. — The varieties most es-
teemed are Seymour's Superb White Solid and the
Eose-colored Solid.

"The seed of this plant when intended for an early crop should
be sown in a hot bed sometime in March, and the plants picked
out as soon as the leaves are about two inches long, at the dis-
tance of an inch or two apart and sliould stand in the bed until
they are large enough to set in the trenches where they are to
grow. Before setting the plants, tHe largest leaves should be
cropped off, as they start better than when left on. For a late
crop the seed may be sown in the garden any time in April, and
in all cases the ground should be finely pulverized, and the seed
covered not more than 1-4 of^n inch deep. The seeds should
be sown in moist, cool land, and shaded from 11 o'clock A. M.,
until 2 P. M., as a hot sun will kill the plants when they first come
up. The land most suitable for its cuhivntiqn is a deep, black,
rich loam, and should be prepared by digging trenches from four
to five feet from centre to centre — one foot wide and one or more
deep. The manure should then be put in and if not fine it should
be made so by chopping and mixing with dirt until the trench is
nearly half full; then put on dirt enough to cover all the manure,
and the ground is ready for the plants. The plants should be set
in the centre of the trench and about eight inches apart, and kept
clean from weeds until the leaves are about one foot long at which
time it is large enough for bleaching; which is done by filling up
the trench and hiliincr up the earth about the leaf stocks. In do-
ing this, care should be taken to keep the leaves straight and the
dirt out of the centre of the stocks. The dirt may be put up
within three or four inches of the lop of the leaves the first hillings
and then go through the same process as often as once in 7 or 10
days until it is fit for use. I have used liquid manure and salt
with very good success on my plants before bleaching, but no
manure should come in contact with the leaves when the process

of bleaching is going on. Some gardeners set Jceper and nearer
than what 1 have mentioned, and it is frequently raised without
trenches, but this latter mode takes more land as the ridges have
io be made higher. Celery is generally raised as a second crop
after early potatoes, vines, onions, cabbages, &c." — By a dislin-
guished JYew Hampshire Gardener.

Chive. AUium schoenoprasum. — Chives are used by
many both m the kitchen and m salads^ and are a sub-
stitute for spring onions. They will grow in almost
any soil and are easily propagated by ofi-sets. They
may be planted in rows eight or nine inches asunder
and four or five in a row. Early in the spring is the
proper time for planting.

CoRNj (Indian.) Zea may^. — Green Indian Corn
makes one of the most delicious dishes that the gar-
den affords. The varieties best adapted for table use,
are, the Early White Jefferson, which is much earlier
than the small Canada, the Eight-rowed Sugar, Dar-
ling's Early Sugar, paid the Twelve-rowed Sugar for
the late crop. The soil should be deep, rich, dry and
mellow. Mark out cross rows from three to four feet
apart each way and at each crossing make a hill. Put
a shovelful of old manure or compost in each hill and
mix it with the soil. Drop five or six kernels of corn
in each and cover about one and a half inches deep.
The plants should be reduced to three when they
have passed all danger from worms. They should be
kept free of weeds and slightly hilled as the corn
grows. When the kernel is fally in the milk it is fit
for use.

^''To Boil. — Green corn is sweetest when boiled upon the cob,
from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. Some per-
sons do not strip off the inner husks, until after the corn has been
boiled, thinking that its rich flavor is thereby better retained. —
The kernels can be cut off with a knife, and sensoned with butter,
pepper and salt, or carried to the table untouched. None but the
over- fastidious will object to eating directly from the cob*

Green Corn Pudding. — To three teacupsful of grated corn, add
two quarts of milk, eight eggs, two teaspoonsful of salt, one-half
teacupful of melted butter, together with a little nutmeg. Bake
for one hour, and eat with sauce.

s-z

Green Corih Oyster.f. — To one pint of grated corn, add one well-
beaten eg5, one teaciipful of (lour, one halt' teacupful of butter,
with salt and pepper to the taste. Mix them well together. A
tablespoonful dropped into lard, will make a cake of the size of
an oyster. Fry to a light brown, and when cooked, moisten it
with cream or butter. > ,'

Tu Dry for Winter Use. — After the ears have been boiled, the
kernels are to be cut off by a knife, or shelled by running the
prong of a fork along the base of the grain. Spread them upon
a cloth in a shaded, airy place, but carry into the house at night-
fall. They will require several days to become perfectly dried,
wht^n they are to be put away in cloth bags. The ravages of
mice must be carefully guarded against".

Succotash. — Put three quarts of cold water to on^
lialf pound of salt pork and place them upon the fire.
Cut three quarts of green corn from the cobs and boil
the cobs with the pork, or scrape the cobs and save
the scrapings to thicken with. When the pork has
boiled one half hour, take out the cobs and put in
one quart of freshly shelled beans. Boil them fifteen
minutes, add the three quarts of corn and boil the
whole until it is tender. Add butter, salt, sugar, creana
and pepper to suit t'le taste. It may be made in win-
ter, by using corn prepared as before directed for win-
ter use, soaking it over night and adding it to the
beans when they become tender.

Cress. lApideum SaiivuirK — The principal variety
of cress is usually known as Pepper grass. As soon as
the weather will permit in Spring, select some warm
situation and sow the seed thickly in drills six inches
apart. The ground should be finely pulverized and
the sowings be repeated once in two weeks till fall.—
It is in perfection when two inches high and should
be cut close to the ground. It is used as a salad with
lettuce, mustard, kc.

Cucumber. Cmmnh sativus. — The cucumber requires
a light, rich loam. TTie hills should be raised on the
out side that they may retain the rain that falls, and
afford a place into which to pour water in case there
should be a dry time, as the cucumber requires a large
amount of moisture. The Early Frame, Early Cinder,

ss

Long and SJiort Pnclcbj^ and ifhe Long )7reen Turhy
are the kinds most valued. For directions in regard
to bugs/see article ^-Destruction of Vermin."

"Sowing in the open air may be performed in the latter part of
April, or any time during the month of Ma), according to the
character of the season. Plants of very early sowings are apt to
be cut off by a late frost. Nevertheless/it wili he for one's inter-
est to get the seed into the crround as soo i ;is it can be done with
safety. The first labor will be to mark but the hills at reguliir
diiitances; perhaps, five feet apart each Svhy will be sufficient, but
to allow six feet is much the ijott'er plan. They should be dug
eul to the depth of twelve or fifteeti inc^ies, with about the same
diamster, and be partly filled with well ratted dung, or a compost
W hen-dung, ove.''laid by some rich, mellow loam. Sow .five or
•isix feeeds in each; at which rate, one ounce of seed wiH planrt
'near two hundred hi'ls.

Cucumbers intended for pickling purposes, should b« pfetifd^
sometime during the first fortnight of July. In the hearing seVp-
'iob, the vines ought to be examined daily, and, in order to secure
greater productiveness, be relieved of the fruii as soon as it ac-
quires a proper size.

The Hand- Glass is useful in forwardirt^ ^M.iits. Arid 'for's-nftH
cultivators, we think it more important tlian the hot-bed. Ir thfe
"beginning of April, a small Ijole, say eighp?en inches deep, and as
"♦vide as the glass to be emploved, should be dug on aWarm bor-
"der having a southern exposure. Put in fourteen or fifteen inches
of active manure, and cover that w iih six inches of fine, ridh suil,
on which the seeds are to be sown. Place a hand-glass (Wer the
hill^ and, during cold days or nights, give the additional protect-
ion of a mat, or^a layer hf loner litter. While it is desirable to
preserve a high temperature below thte 'glass, fresh air mui^t lD>e
jadmitted, in such quantities and at such times as will se<?ure a
Tigorous growth, together with a strono^^ healthy green color in
the plants. As the season advances, th'^y ought to be gradually
mrderied, in order that they, rtiay not suflJer serious inconvenience
Irein the entire removal of t!he glass. The proper reguldtiori 6^
'thii^ Diatter wil| require a good deal of judgment, lest <thfe teiidet
▼ines experience a fatal check, fmm the want of that shelter ub-
<ler Which they have been coaxed info a premature existence.

Hand-glasses are also valuable in tiie preto'ciionof tarly plains
raised on a hot bed, or in a warm kitchen window, and removed
to the open ground before the Weath'er becomes seit'.ed. W^
have found the vit\e-shield a very cheap and efficient nul^Ftitiu^^
alihouorh it may be considered iiVfeVioir' to the regular hand-glass."
— Gardener's Text Book. "i

- ■ ■< ■ ■ ': \ .'■ ",

The Egg-Platvt. Solanum :?l^€?()n^^6flVi[,— ''This is a tender
plant and easily killed \y frost. lAerefoi^ if i^*int^d iyi^''^^<Trry

\i|sethe,p]Qnis iuu?^l he raised in a hot-bed> or they may bono\vn ia

any goocj rich gc^rden s^.i) in llio. momh of May, and the, plants
kept at the ili>jatic« of -^ or 25i i,nch'>s apart, When about a fopt
high, they s.hoiihi he, hillexi a little. The cqUiya,liun is very sim-
ple ^r)d (ff^sy.TT-Bij a jy,, H. Gjirdcner.

The Lomj^Fiirple is the kind used for culinary pur-
poses. "The J !%?{? i^ an ornamental variety.

To Caok. — "The fruit contains an acrid juice, which ought to
be removed before cookirj;^. For this purpose, pile up the slicesi
on a plate, with I lyers of .suit, and r;iise one side of the plate, so
tl)a,lt|ie juice may run off' wiihoat aiTecting the taste of the lower
^ice. ■ After refnainiiig,30 for abnut half ati hour, the^y shoujd bl^:
\vell,;vvashed in Iresh wa,^er, and then fried quiie, brown in battejt]*!*

Endive, — Cichoriv.m endivia.—-T\iQ Green Curled, and'
the White are tlie kinds for the main crop.

"Sow in rich soil at intervals from April to July, in drills fif-
teen inches apart, and the plants eight inches apart in the rows.
Iloe them frequently, 'Tie up the leaves when fully grovyn, to
l^Iainch the heads. They are lased as a salad. The green curle^;
is the best."

Fennel. Ancthiimfccnicidnm. — ''They are all raised from seed
of which half an ounce is sufficient for a seed-bed four feet by
gix feet. Sometimes, also, they are raised from offsets from
the old plants, where only a few are wanted. 'Sow in the spring
in light earth, either in (drills from six to twelve inches apart, or
broad-cast and rake in. When the plants are three or four inch-
es high, thin or transplant a quantity fifteen inches asunder. Ai
the roots of old plants divide into side offsets, these may he
sJipped off in spring, summer, or autumn, and planted a foot apart.
They will produce immediate leaves for present supply, and ia
continuance; or, for an immediate larger supply of leayea, yojtt
may procure some established full roots, and phnt as above.: .let
them be well watered.'

The tender stalks of common fennel ar-e used in salads; the
leaves, boiled, enter into many fi-h sauces; and, raw, are garn-
ishes for several dishes. The blanched stalks of the variety call-
ed finochio are. eaten v/ith oil, vinegar, and pepper, as a cold sal-
ad, and they are likewise sometimes put into soups.^* — Loudon.

Horse-Radish. CocJilearia annora^ia. — "Like every other,
plant, this bears sred; hut it is best propagated by cuttifig bits of
it^ roots into lengths of two inches, and putting them, spring or
fall, into the ground about a foot deep with a setting-stick. They
will find their way up the first year; and the second they will be
fine large roots, if the ground be trenched deeply and made pret-
ty good. Half a square perch of ground, planted at a foot apart
♦very way, will, if; kept clear of weeds, produce enough for a

M^i^.>ik,

40

fatnilj that eats roast beef every day of their lives. You must
take care that the horse-radish roots do not spread, and that bits
of them be not flang about the ground; for, wlien once in, no til-
lage will get them out, They must be, like the dock and dande-
lion roots, absolutely burnt hy^'re, or by a &un that will reduce
them to a state of a dry stick, or must be taken 4jp and carried
away from the spot. Though a very valuable and wholesome ar-
ticle of diet, it is a most pernicious weed." — Cobbttt.

Leek. Allium porrum. — The ^^cotch Flag, and Large
London are the most choice kinds.

"Sow early in spring, in rich ground, in drills an inch deep,
and tvvelve inches apart. About the beginning of summer trans-
plant them, six inches apart, in rows. When it is wished to have
them blanched, they may be transplanted inio shallow trenches,
three or four inches deep, and earthed up like celery."

It is used for the various purposes for which the
onion is esteemed.

Lettuce. Lactiica mtiva. — This is undoubtedly the
best of all salads. It is divided into two classes, the
6V>5' and Ckhhage Lettuces. The former class does not
succeed well with us. Of the latter, the Early Curled
Silesia, Royal Cape, India, Brcnvn Dutch, and Grand Ad-
miral, are amono; the esteemed kinds. Lettuces mav
be raised readily in Hot Beds. The first sowings in
open grounds should be made as soon as the weather
will permit ; say sometime in April. When the plants
are two inches high they should be thinned so as to
stand four inches apart. Those that are drawn out
may be set in another bed or row. When the plants
are four or five inches high they should be thinned to
eight or ten inches. The ground sliould be frequent-
ly istirred and the plants have an abundance of water,
as upon this depends their tenderness. A second
sowing may be made four or five weeks later and a
third in August. The India and the Cap)c are the
best for the dry weather of summer and early fall. —
By pursuing the above course a person can raise Let-
tuce that is very fine and tender and heads of a very
large size.

Marjoham. Origanum. — There are two varieties,
the >SVv^/ and the Winfer. They axe propagated by

41

Meed sown in drills and covered half an inch deep. —
The middle of Spring is the proper time for sowing.
The plants shonld be thinned to six inches. It grows
best on a dry, mellow, and rich soil. When the liow-
ers are about to expand gather a supply for winter
and hang it in a shady place to dry. It is used as a
seasoning in soups and meats, also as a medicine.

Melon. — The melon holds a conspicuous place among
fruits. There are two varieties, the 3Iusk ( Cncinnis
melo,) and the Water Melon [ci'cnrUta citndliis). There
are a large number of kinds of each sort. Of the
former, the Nutmeg, the Green fleshed, the Earli/ Chris-
tim, the Beechwood, and Skillman's Fine Nettled, are
deservedly popular. Of the latter, the Black Spanish,
Mountain Sprout, Carolina, Long Island, and Mountain
Sweet are desirable kinds.

"Manure and dig the ground well for Musk Melons. Plant
them in May, six feet apart each way. Put twelve seeds in at
each place, and if all grow, pull up all but three at a place when
the plants are four inches high. Dust them with lime or ashes,
in the mornings while wet with dew, twice a week, until they have
four large leaves, to keep off grubs and bugs. The fruit will be
ripe in August. It has a sweet scent, and parts from the vine on
being touched when ripe- It is a delicious and wholesome fruit.

"The water melon is cultivated in the same way as the musk
melon, except that they are planted ten feet apart each way. —
Both musk and water melons flourish best on rich, sandy loam. —
The water melon is ripe when it has a breaking sound on being
pressed by the hand; it is a wholesome fruit.

To have melons a month earlier than by the above method,
have boxes made two feet square, sixteen inches deep at back,
and eight inches deep at front, with sloping sides, and a glazed
sash to fit, with a lath on each side as high as the sash, to keep it
from being blown off with high winds. Having all ready about.
the first of May, dig holes about two feet wide and two feet deep;
put eighteen inches of hot horse manure in them, and a foot of
earth above it. Plant the seeds an inch deep in the middle, and
place the box and sash on it. When the plants are an inch high,
push down the sash a little every day to admit air. Be sure to
draw it close up at night, and if there appears to be frost, cover
the sash with mats or boards over night. Water when needed.
The sash can be taken off in warm days; after the plants have
four leaves, both box and sash might be taken off altogether by
(he siBCond week in June." — Cottage Garden.

i'2

To hasten the ripening of melons gardeners recom-
mend that a .piece of slate or shingle painted black be
placed under them that they may have the more fall
benefit of the sini.

Mint. 3fentha. — There are three kinds; Pennyroy-
al {M, mlegkim,)', Peppermint, {3£p{penla,);sind Spear-
mint {3£ viridis.) They do best on a moist soil and
^re propagated either by seed or dividing old, roots.
Save them for winter use thesameas J/^ryo/rOT. The,
last is used for cooking and the others for making herb
teas.

MusTAiiD. Sinapis, — The White is cultivated as. a
salad. The leaves, when very young, are used like
peppergrass. Sow in drills, at different times, from
April to June.

Nasturtium. Tropmolum majm, — This plant is some-
times known as Indian Cress. It is deserving of cul;^,
tivation on account of its beautiful qrangercqlojiQd
flowers, and its excellence in salads. The sejed of this
plant, Avhich it produces abundantly, makes an excels.
lent pickle ; It is sown in drills, in April or early fflj
May. Cover about an inch deep. When it is ^boiii;
six inches high, it should have sticks placed for it to
climb upon, or it may be planted near a fence and be
trnined upon that.

To PlcJcle. — Gather the berries while quite green,^
but after they are fall grown and k^ep them in s?ilt'
^nd water until a sufficient quantity is obtained.-^—'
Then pour off the brine and pour upon them hot spic-
ed vinegar.

Onion. Allium cepa. — This plant may be raised with
success upon the same ground, as has been proved; =
for three fourths of a century. It seems to prove ait
exception to rotation of crops as it does better aft^r'
it has been raised upon the same ground for several
3^ears. The kinds that are propagated by seed and
most esteemed are^ the White Portugues^, YelJoW
Dan vers, Large Red, ^iid the Silv,e:r^Skinn^d, Tho

latter is wsecl for pickling. The onion is raieed on a
light soil that has been well enriched with rotton nia*
niir&. It should be sown from the middle of April to
the middle of May. Do not raise your bed. After
having raked it smooth and fine it should bo pressed
hard either by walking upon it or some other way,— ;-
(some use a beetle,) and then levelled with the back
of a rake. Draw the drills one foot apart and nearly
an inch deep. Scatter the seed moderately thick and
cover with fine loam. Smooth the bed, by walking
upon it, and then sift ashes upon it. Keep free of
weeds and at the first thinning reduce them to two
inches and afterwards when they interfere with each
Other to four or five inches apart. It is thought that
they bottom better when the earth is removed from
the bulbs.

Potato Onwn. Allium tuberosum. — Not infrequently chlje*^
the under-ground onion, in consequence of its producing clusters
of offsets from the roots. Plant in March or April, — the bulbs
b«ing ten inches from each other, in rows one fnot apart, and hav-
ing thieir crowns one inch below the surface. The feoil should be
moderated)' rich, and, for convenience of cultivation, laid into l^ed's
four feet wide. Make good use of the hiife ihroughout the slim-
mer, and occasionally draw a little earth aromid the stems. This
prattke of ''earthing," as it is called, is geneially fidlowed, al-
th'Oiigh ^drtdemri^d by many eminent ^uihoiities. The crop Will
be ntatured feotnetime during the month of August, and is to be
harvested like the comraott onion. — P. A. Schencic.

■ TBite Onion. Jillivm prolrfftum. — This hardy pereniiial spe^-
cies of the on^on family is sometimes called the Canada Onroh«,
because it is much cultivated in cold countries where the tlither
kinds d() tiot flourish well. Small bulbs are produced at the top
of the stalks, — hence its name. Propagation is effected by plant-
ing (the o(Fs€lts'6f old roots in spring or autumh, or Tht3 top bulbs in
the middle of spring. They should be set about six inches apart,
in rows that are one foot distant from each other. The only care
required, is to keep the ground well tilled, and tosuppot the st«*ms
by^j^thkes. The'bidbs a^-e to be jrathered when the tops decayj
driir'd' in a shady place, ^and preserved in a dry, Cool apartmet/t.-^
^Gardenevls Text-Book.

To bmll — Peel the onions, and put them into boiling mflk, o'r
milk and w^ter tnix.ed. When they become tender, iney arfe to
be taken from the fire, salted, and served with melted butter. —

44

Changing the w:it«r when they are ahout hall-boiled, relieves thern
of much of their strong flavor,

# To })>cklr..-—i*ee\ the onions, and boil them for ten minutes in
milit iind water. To one gallon of vinegar, put one half ounce of
cinnamon and mace, one quarter ounce of cloves, one half ounce
of alum, t(!irether with a small teacupful of salt. The spiced vin-
ec^ar is to be heated, and turned, when scalding hot, upon the on-
ions, after they have been drained from the milk and water. Cov-
er them tight until they become cold.

Onion Sauce. — Take peeled onions, boil them till quite tender,
and then press out the water which they have absorbed. Chop
them tine, add butter melted in milk, and place the dish again up-
on the lire.

Parsley. Apium petroscUnmn, — The Common, the
Curled-leaved, and the Hamburgh, are the varieties
cultivated. Sow early in Spring in drills one inch
deep, and ten inches apart. Water the see J with boil-
ing water which greatly hastens vegetation, reducing
the time from five weeks to two weeks. Parsley is
used for seasoning various dishes and is of value as a
garnish.
■ Parsnip. Pastinaca satica. — The Large Dutch, and
the Hollow Crowned or Sugar, are worthy of cultiva-
tion. The ground should be spaded two spades deep
and made rich with rotton manure. Sow in drills one
inch deep and fifteen inches apart. When the plants
are two inches high, thin to three inches and after-
wards to six inches apart. Stir the ground frequent-
ly and keep clear of weeds. They are sweeter after
a severe frost and should not therefore be gathered
till late in the fall. Those wanted for spring use may
be kept in the ground all winter. Those that are dug
should be kept in sand.

To Cook. — Boil them tender in water that has been
salted and scrape the skin off and send to the table
with other vegetables; or, mash and butter them.

Pea. Pisimi sativum.— The varieties of Peas culti-
vated are very numerous. Some of the best are Hill's
Extra Early,' Hovey's Extra Early, Prince Albert, Ce-
do Nulli, Dwarf Marrowfat, Dwarf Blue Imperial,
Missouri Marrow, and the Champion of England. Ei-

45

ther will give satisfiictiunin tlieir place. It is a great
obj ect with cultivators to have peas early. Cobbett
says the crop may be hastened fifteen days by fall
sowing. Trench the ground mixing in green mannre
and sow just as the frost is about to close up the
ground. They should not be sown so early as to
sprout in the fall. Early in the spring as soon as the
frost is out of the ground, sow either of the first three
kinds, perhaps, Hoyey's or Hill's Extra Earlij would
be the best. The seed should be sown thickly and in
double drills; that is, in drills six inches apart with a
space of two feet between each pair of drills. The
large kinds should be sown in single drdls two feet
apart. In a wet season it is better to bush them, but
vn a dry one if the vines lay upon the ground they
serve as a shade and therefore do not suffer so much
from the drou^rht. Seed should be sown once in two
weeki^ until the middle of July. The last sowings
should be inade in some place sheltered from the
scorchi.ig rays of the sun, and if the weather should
prove very dry, they should be watered.

"Tb 6oi/.-Green peas should be freshly gathered, and not shell-
ed until a few minutes before the time of cooking. Wash them
clean, and then put them into boiling water, with salaratus in the
proportion of one quarter ter.spoonful to one half peck of peas.
When they are tender, take them up by means of a skimmer, put
a piece of butter in the dish, and sprinkle on a little salt."

Pepper. • Cqmicum. — The Squash, Bell, and Long or
Cayenne are most cultivated. Choose a light, dry and
rich soil. Loosen it thoroughly. For very early crops,
sow in a mild hotbed at the commencement of spring;
for later, sow in the open ground when it becomes
warm. When the plants are three inches high trans-
plant them into very rich ground, fifteen inches apart.
Hoe the ground well and keep it free of weeds. —
Pepper is used for seasoWng meats and medicinal pur-
poses.

Potato. Solamm tuberosum-. — There is a very large
vai'iety of potatoes. The early kinds are the ones
chiefly cultivated in gardens. The Early Blues, Coio

/<

4G

Horm, Early Kidneij^ Cflienangos, and Early IliU^ ar'e
some of the earliest. The White Jaclcson and the
Black are the most popular late sorts in this region.

This root is the product of almost every soil, al-
though a dry, rich one is best suited to them. A sod
turned over in the preceding autumn, so as to become
well-rotted in the spring after the grass has well star-
ted, is perhaps the best suited to give a fair yield, and
at the same time a fine, healthy, well-matured return.
They may be planted in hills or drills, according to
the judgment of the cultivator. Whole potatoes of
a medium size are better for planting than small, or
large cut ones. They should be well hilled up in hoe-
ing. The hills may be three and a half feet apart;
or, if in drills, they may be three and a half feet a-
sunder^ and the potatoes placed about ten inches-
apart.

"Irish mode of boiling. — Wash the potatoes clean, but do ne%
pare them; then put them into hot water, and boil them until a
fork can be readily inserted Dash in a pint of cold water, and!
in two minutes afterward, pour off the whole. Now;set the pot,
with the lid half drawn, either over the fire, or near it, for the
steam to evaporate; when the potatoes may be peeled, and car-
ried to the table in an uncovered dish. If they be of a good kmd
ihia mode of cooking will render thern sweet, dry and mealy, very
different from the water-soaked lumps too often seen.

To roast. — Select potatoes of a nearly equal size, that they
may all occupy about the same length of time in cooking. After
thfey are washed clean, put them in a tin pan, and bake in a stove
or oven. Send them to the table unskinned.''

"Potato, (Sweet.) Convolvulus batatas — The best soil tor the
sweet potato plant is light, dry, of rather a sandy character, and
in a warm situation. It should be prepared for planting, by be-
ing deeply dug or ploughed, and enriched by a liberal application
of manure. All the large clods ought to be pulverized. The
ground can then be laid into beds three feet wide, with a very
shallow drill through the middle of each, or marked out in hills,
three feet apart each way.

Where the season is of sufficient length, the seed potatoes may
be planted immediately in the beds prepared for their reception;
but, in northern climates, artificial heat is necessary to procure
early plants. In the latter case, the roots are to be split and
placed about three or four inches deep in the soil of a hot-bed,
sometime during the latter part of spring. This bed is composed

47

%r good, warm lUing, to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, cov-
ered with eight inches of sandy loam. The lunners will show
themselves in the course of a fortnight or three weeks, and the
bed ought, during the process of sprouting, to receive an occa-
sional sprinkling of water. When three inches high above the
surface, they are of the right size lor removal to the open ground.
In taking them up, place the left hand on the potato, to keep it
from moving, and draw them, one by one, with the right hand. —
If they be planted in drills, they should be set about nine or ten
inches asunder; but, if in hills, two plants must be allotted to
each. The operation is most successful, when perforcoed at even-
ing, or in dpjnp, cloudy weather; and, in a dry time, frequent ap-
plications of water, until the roots have taken hold firmly, will be
ibund of great advantage. The potatoes in the bed v/ill continue
throwing up sprouts, for as much as three or four weeks.

For Seed. — The roots must be taken very carefully from the
ground, as the least bruise engenders decay. They are to be
packed in leaves or eand, which have been exposed to the influ-
ence of the sun or a fire until perfectly dry, and then stored in a
room where no injiiry in to be apprehended irom the cold." — P.
A. Schench.

To CooJc. — "When desired as an nccompaniment to
meats it should be baked .';s it if^ nmcli better than
when boiled.

*' Sweet Potai-o Pie. — 3oiI the potatoes very soft; then peel and
mash them. To every quarter cf a pound, put one quart of milk,
three tablespoonsful of butter, faur beaten eggs, together with
sugar and nutmeg lo the taste.

Eadish. Raphanus sativns. Select the Fa?'!i/ JSmr-
let Short Top^ Li>ng Sahion and the Turnip roofed^

"To produce good clean radishes they must be sov/n in yery
rich soil: and eapecially in old gardens, which are liable to be
infested by insects, it ihould be highly manured and made fine. —
The seed may be sown ai aoon as the ground is free from frost in
the sprinor; and aflerwards, at intervals of two weeks, either in
drills or broadcast. The Scarlet Short Top and Long Salmon
are the best kindf for early planting. When the weather becomes
hot, the Turnip-rooted aorta succeed best."

Rhubarb. Rheum rhapotdicum. — This is known in
many sections as the Pie-plant

Wilmots's Early Scarlet, Mammoth, Tohohlc, and My-
atfs Victoria are either worthy of attention. Plants
are obtained from seed or portions of old roots. —
Whore the cnltivator is in no especial hnrry for thefirst
crop, or where a large plantation is to be made, the

48

former method is preleiTed. TUe seed bed ^should be
made of a light, rich soil and iuid out in drills one
foot apart. Drop the seed thinly azid cover about
one inch deep. The time for pl9.nting ig tlie sanjie ag
that of Indian Corn. When the plants are two inch-
es high thin them to six inches. When the leaves are
withered in autumn remove them to their permanen-f
location.

The ground should be manured and deeply spaded.
The hills should be laid out t\vo and a half feet apart
each way. Bury the crowns two inches deep. Vv^hen
winter approaches mulch with coarse manure. Th e
third year from the seed the plants will do to crop a
little. When plantations are made with old roots pur-
sue the same course as with seedling roots.

''Rhubarb Pie. — Take the young stalks, rempve the skin, and
cut them into thin slices. Line a deep plate with pie crust, ami
put in the rhubarb, together with, layers of sugar. Cov^r the
whole with a thick crust, pressed down on the edges, and prjc^e^
by a fork. Bake for about an hour in a slow oven. Some per-
sons are accustomed to stew the fruit before baking, by which
means a greater quantity can be put in the plate.

Rhubarb Jam. — Boil gently, for three honrs, an equal weight
of fine sugar and rhubarb stalks. The juice and grated rind of a
lemon to each pound of the stalks, will correct their peculiar fla-
vor, which is unpleasant to some persons."

Sage. SaMa officinaUs.—Ti\e Green, and the Red or
Purple are most esteemed for cooking; the JfSroad-
leaved Balsamic for medicines. Select a dry, mellow;
spot for a bed, spade it deeply and in May when the
weather becomes warm, sowtlie seed in drills ten inch-
es apart. When the plants are two inches high thi^i
them to six inches.. Those drawn may be transplant-
ed. We prefer to so\y every other year, thus crop-
ping only seedlings and plants oue year 6ld. Soiii;^
prefer old roots. To retiain these in good oitle^r all
that is necessary is to give them a. 'slight top-dressi»g
and stir the soil about the rpots. It is used for se.ar
goning meat.^ and to innk-p -tlip poy^nhir hor1) drink.
'^spge tea."

49

Salsi HV. TiHv-jojjogmi jHirnfoliuis. — Tiiiii; plaut is known
as the*Vogetable Oyster, it is becoming a very pop-
ul/jir v^getjjible. The ground should be hght and rich
nnd spaded deeply. kSow the seed thichii/ in drills
twelve inches apart f\nd one inch deep. Thin the
plants to three inches and stir the ground frequently.
Tbo.^e wanted for spring use can remahi in ground
over winter the same fjis parsnips.

To CooJc. — Cut into thin slices, soak in water for
thirty minutes then boil tender in milk aiid water. —
^dd pepper,, salt, butter and powdered crackers.
■ ■* Artificial Oysters. — After the root has bkeen ^eraped, and hid
ih water for several roinutes, in order to abstract a part of its bitr
ter flavor, it is to be boiled tender, and either cut in thin slices,
ur grated and pressed into little c<ikcs,or the size of oysters. Dip
tl^e slices, or cakes, in,to a batter m;ide of wheat flour, milk, and
eggs; roll them in crumbled bieL'.d or crackers; and ihep drop
them into hot lard. When of a light brown color, ihey are suffi-
ciently cooked, and ready to be carried to the table."

Sa vory. tSdfureja. — There are two species, the Sum-
mer (S. hortensis) and the Winter (S. moiitana). The
fqrmer is an annu3,l, the latter a, perennial. The Win-
ter is cultivated the same as Sage. The annual is raised
by sowing it moderately thick in high ground in drills
fifteen inches apart. The leaves should he gathered
when the plant is in blossom and dried in, a cool place,

Sea-Kale. Cranha maritima — The seed of this may be sown
early in the season in the open ground, and the planis kept at the
distance of a few inches apart the first year. They should then
be s.et three inches djeep, in rows 3 feet or more apart, and 18
iriches apfirt in the row and kept iii a good state of cuhivation th?^t
season. In the fall atler the leaves have died away, the row
should be covered with a good coat of manure to protect them,
from frost and make them start well in the spring, at which time
the manure should be well dug into the ground ind the crown of
the plant be covered with dirt to the depth of 10 or VZ inches, or
with inverted pots, to bleach the leaves, as that, part only is eaten
which grows under ground. The soil should be a light, rich, san-
dy loam. Salt is a useful fertilizer. — By a distinguished sjai-diner.

!r<^ ca(?i-.— Soak the stalks in water for thirty minutes, and ti^ei:
them up in small bundles. Boil them very tender, over a brisk ^
fire, v^ith a little salt in the pot; drj^iri off the water, and lay (hefn
on a slice of toast which has been moisteiied iii'tKe liquor. Dfess
with melted butter, pepper and salt.

50

Shallot. Al'ium ascalcnicvm. — It is a 6j~ « cies of onion,
cultivated like the Potato onion.

Spinach, or Spin age. Spinaeia oleracea. — This requires
a richer soil than almost any other culinary vegetable,
to bring it to perfection, as it has to yield frequent
gatherings or cuttings, and therefore, requires a re-
peated developement of parts, which cannot be expec-
ted without an abundance of food. The varieties
mo^t esteemed are the Round-leaved or Summer, the
Prickly or Winter and the New Zealand. The latter is
best for very dry lands. Sow the Round-le aved in
April in deeply trenched ground and the Winter in
August or September. Thin to six inches and water
well in dry weather. When the cold weather sets in
it should ho, covered with straw to protect it from the
sun, and from freezing and thawdng. It is used for
"greens."

Squish. Cucvrhiia mclopepo. — FiRnt in May in hills about six
fVet apart, and the soil well enriched with a good quantity of ret-
ten manure or compost to each hill* Sow a sufficiency of seed to
allow for loss by insocts. 'I'hree dr four plants are enough to
leave for each hill. The early Scallop or Bush squash is an ex-
cellent variety for i^immer use. Canada, Winter Crooknpck, and
Autumnal Marrow, are considered best for winter use. The Mar-
row must be planted at a disianco from every other variety, aa
they are liable to rnix.

Thyme. Thymus vidgari^, — There are two varieties,
the Broad-leaved and the Nahrciv. It is best suited with
a poor soil that i« warm and exposed to the sun. Sow
in drills six inches aparl and thin to six inches in the
drill. The after treatment is the same as Sage. The
leaves should be gathered when the plant is in blos-
som. It is highly valued as a seasoning for meats,
soups and sauces.

Tomato. Solanum lycopersicnm. — This popular ^og-
etable w^as long cultivated as an ornament to the
flower garden, under the name of Love Apple. It
has recently acquired a very high reputation as a
culinary vegetable, and that reputation i« Btill exten-
ding

51

The tomato comes from tlie south of Europe and
therefore requires a longer season to niatui e it than \vc
have m New Hampshire. People usually therefore
resort to hot beds to forward early plants. Where
they have not this convenience plants may be for-
warded by planting seeds in pots during the month of
March and placing them in kitchen windows exposed
to the sun. When the plants are three inches higli
they should be transferred to small pots, one plant to
a pot. W^hen the weather becomes warm, the middle
or last of May the ground should be prepared. It is
a "gross feeder" and requires rich soil. The rows
should be five feet apatt and the hills five feet apart
in the rows. Dig holes eighteen inches deep and the
same distance across. Fill them with well rotted ma-
nure and ashes incorporated with rich loam. Over
this place three inches of good earth and into this
transplant the plant. Draw a little earth about the
stock and leave the ground about the plant a little
hollowing to retain the water. When the plant is
fruiting it requires a large amount of moisture. —
Thorough watering at this time hastens the ripening
of the fruit. Some recommend that the stalk be trel-
lised up; others that bushes be laid about the vines that
they may not touch the ground; but we have always
succeeded best wdien we have let the vines lay upon
the ground. Charcoal laid about them draws the sun
and causes them to ripen faster than they otherwise
would. They are profuse bearers. We have* raised
nearly a bushel from one stock.

To plant in the open ground. — When the weather be-
comes warm prepare the ground as above directed and
plant six or eight seeds in each hill. When the plants
are an inch high draw all but two, and when those
are three inches high draw one of them. Afterwards
pursue the same treatment as for those raisec^in a
hotbed. They furnish a luscious dish. The Large Bed
and Large Yellow are preferred for cooking; ih^Pcar-

52

shaped, and Cherry for pickling. They aro cooked in
var ions ways. We oiler the following:

*'2a cook. — If ihe tomatoes are not quite ripe,di[ pina them mto
hot wrrt«er will loosen their sluns so that they may bti easily peeled.
Put ihem in a stew pan, together with a table-spoonful of water,
in case they are not very juicy. Add a little butter und salt, and
t?te\v the whole for half an hour."

Another ivay. — Take nicely pealed tomatoes tind put
a layer of them into a deep dish. Over these spread
d layer of powdered crackers or dried bread. Piirsu e
this cburse putting in a layer of tomatoes then a lay-
er of bread until the dish is full. The upper layer
should be of bread. Each layer should be seasoned
with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and sugar. Bake
slowdy for two horns. Nothing adds more to their
valtie than thorough, cooking.

" Tomato marmalade. — Gather full-grown tomatoes when quite
green. JStew them until soft, when they are to he rubbed through
a seive- again put over the fire, and seasoned higlily with pepper,
salt, and powdered cloves. Let the pulp stew until it becomes
very thick. ' It will then keep well, and be excellent for season-
ing gravies.

Tomato catsup. — To one quart of ripe tomatoes, put two table-
spoonfuls of salt, two tablespoonfuls of black pepper, two table-
spoonfuls of good mustard, a half-tablespoonful of all-spice, and
three red peppers ground fine. Simmer the whole together with
a pint of vinegar, in a tin vessel, slowly for three hours. Strain
throuiih a seive. Bottle and cork titrht. The later in the season
it is made, the better it will keep.

To preserve for winter use. — Put perfectly ripe fruit in a stone
pot, or a glazed earthen jar, and cover them with salt and water
strong enough to bear an egg. Before being cooked, they ought
to be soaked in fresh water for several hours.

Another receipt.. — Scald the ripe fruit, which should be of small
size, and, after the skins are removed, squeeze them slightly. —

Spread them on earthen dishes, which are to be placed in a
brick oven after the bread has been taken out, and let them remain
there until the next morning. Then put them in bags, and keep
them in a dry place. The tomatoes are in the best condition for
preserving, in the months of July and August. Before bein^
cooked, soak them in fresh water for a few hours." — Gardener^ s
Text-Book.

T URN IP. Brcmica rapa. — This is a very valuable veg-
etable. It is raised on light soil, but yet it should be

rich. The While Daichy Red Top^ Early Garden Stone,
the Yelloio iind the Improced Swedish^ are the best va-
rieties. Bone dust and ashes are the best fertihzers
for the Turnip. Stir the ground and rake it smooth.
Draw drills twelve inches apart and cover the seed
one half inch deep. When the plants are one inch
high thin to three inches, and when they are three
inches high thin to six inches. The ground should be
fiequently stirred. Gather the winter crop before
frosts, and place in a dry, cool cellar.

To cook. — They should be pared, boiled tender,
drained, mashed up and seasoned with butter, salt,
and pepper.

WoR3iwooD. — Artemisia Absinthium.

Culture. — This plant is best suited with a light, dry and poor
soil, for when its growth becomes very luxuriant, it loses a good
part of its aroiiiatic qualities, and is less able to endure the rigors
of winter. It is propagated by seed, as well as by slips and cut-
tings. Sow thinly in spring, or in autumn soon after the seed ri-
pens. When the plants have attained a height of two inches,
thin them to distances of six inches apart. The slips and cuttings
are to be taken off at midsummer, and set out in a shaded bor-
der, in rows six or eight inches apart each way, to be watered
regularly until they have become established. Transplanting to
the permanent location, is to be performed in the following spring.
Keep the ground light and clean, and clear away the dead stalks
in autumn.

Use. — Wormwood is cultivated chiefly for medicinal purposes.

|lflfj«lliil<

Production OF New Varieties. — Some of our choice
fruits have been mere chance productions, but by far
the greater part of those valued for theif great beau-
ty, size, and quahty, are produced upon scienEifc
principles. Two celebrated pomologists have devoted
their whole lives to it. They had different theories.
The one is known as Dr. Van Mons' Theory , the oth-
er as Mr. Knight's.

D)\ Van Mons' Theory, — Dr. Van Mons, a Belgian;
had in nurseries in 1823, no less than two thoiisand
seedling varieties of Pears of great merit. His at-
tention was chiefly directed to this delicious fruit,
although he originated numerous excellent seedlings
of other kinds. "All fine fruits are artificial products;
the aim of nature, in a \vild state being only a healthy,
vigorous state of the tree and perfect seeds for contin-
uing the species. It is the object of culture, there-
fore, to subdue, or enfeeble this excess of vegetation ^
to lessen the coarseness of the tree ; to diminish the
size of the seeds ; and to refine the quality and in-
crease the size of the pulp." These objects Dr. A^an
Mons effected by sowing and re-sowing seeds, one gen-
eration after another. lie selected the fruit before
fully ripe, from yaung trees that were in a '^state of
variaiion^' that is, a garden variety and not a wild sort,
and when the fruit rotted, he planted them in nursery
rows. When these young trees came into bearing, he
gathered the fruit in the same condition and planted
again. Each generation came into bearing earlier than
the former one, the fifth sowing fruiting the third year
from the seed. The fifth generation of seedlings
were nearly all of great merit. In this v^^ay were pro-

55

traced tlie Beurre Diel,, De Louvain and other well
known varieties. But it requires so long a time in
this country, to carry tliis sj'Stem out, that most hor-
ticulturahsts have been deterred from pursuing it. —
The climate of Belgium is much more favorable to it.
Mr. Knighfs Theon/. — This is the process almost in-
variably pursued by successful horticulturalists of the
present day, and is much preferred in this country,
where so long a time is required to perfect a tree
and bring it into bearing. It consists in sowing cross
hred seeds. Tbese are produced in this way: blossoms
■of fruit trees, and of most plants, contain stamens and
pistils, which are the male and female parents of the
new seed. By examining the flower of the Cherry,
for instance, it will be perceived that there is a por-
tion in the centre directly connected with the young
fruit, which has a slight expansion at the top. This
stem-like substance is called the pistil or female parent,
and the expansion at the top the stirjma. Around the
pistil are numerous threads called stamens and at their
summit are little substances called anthers which se-
crete the poll-en or fertilizing dust. To produce a new
variety, select a flower that you intend shall be the
female parent of the new kind, and as soon as it be-
gins to expand, cut out the stamens with a pair of
scissors, using care not to injure the other parts. Af-
ter this, cover the flower with gauze to keep put the
bees. When the stamens of the other plant are grown
and the anthers matured, which may be determined by
their being covered with dust or pollen^ remove them
and after removing the gauze from the other flower,
give it a twirl over it so that the fertilizing dust shall
touch the pistil. Whep. the fruit ripens save the seeds
of the blossoms thus treated and plant them. The
trees produced will bear a fruit different from either
of the parent-trees, yet having some points of resem-
blance to both. Thus, Coe's Golden Drop Plum was
cross between the MagnumBonum or Egg-Plum andtiie
Green Gage; and the Elton Cherry was raised from a

56

cross bred seed of the Bigarreau and Wliite Heart.—
This process has been carried to an ahnost iinhmited
extent with flowers.

Grafting and Budding. — Having obtained a vahia-
ble variety of fruity it becomes desirable to propagate
it, but as this cannot be done by sowing the seeds, we
are oblio-ed to resort to some other methods. Those
usually practised are grafting and budding. There
are several ways of performing the former, usually
called, cleft, splice, tongue and saddle grafting.

The best time for grafting is when the buds begin
to swell, say from the first of April to the first of
June. Stone fruit should be grafted a little earlier,
as the bark is inclined to peel and roll vfhen the wood
is growing. Some recommend that grafts be inserted
into the cherry and plum, while the frost is in the
ground." Budding is more successful than grafting
with stone fruit. Scions for stone fruit should not be
kept long before setting. Scions for other kinds of
fruit may be cut any time during winter, or in the
spring before the buds swell. They should be closely
packed in saw-dust and put a way in some dark, cool
place. Care should be taken that they are not ke])t
too damp, as it causes premature groAtth, or spoils
them by satm^ation.

Grafting Wax. — Take two pounds beeswax and four
pounds good rosin, and melt them together; then add
one pound good beef tallow and mix the whole thor-
oughly. Turn the composition into a tub of watei'
to cool it sufiiciently so that it may be v^'orked. Pull
it until it presents a light color, ilnother wax may
be made by mi^:ing one pint linseed oil, one pound
beeswax, and six pounds of ftesin, and pursuing the
course as above directed.

Grafting Clay. — This is made l^y mixing iwo parts
of good blue ch\y with one part of fresh horse-dung,
addiiig a little hair as in mortar. It is sometimes
necessary to add a \^r\ small portion of sand. It

>i

Cleft GrafUng,

should be thorouglily ^\'oike(l daily.- s^overal days pre-
vious to use.
Fig. 4.

Cleft Gilifting. — This is the method
used m changing the lieads of large trees,
and of stocks one or more inches in diam-
eter. Select some place free of knots
and saw the limb off with a sharp fine
toothed saw, and smooth the end remain-
mg with a knife. A cleft should be made
.about one and a half or two inches deep,
with a hammer and a splitting knife. —
Now select a scion from the last years growth that is
full and well'ripened, and with a very sharp knife
vslope it in the shape of a wedge, from one to one and
a half" inches long, making the outside a little thicker
than the inside. With a chisel^open the split in the
stock and insert it so that the inner barks of the scion
and the stock shall come together. When .the stock
is large insert two scions as in Figure (4). After this,
Fig, 5. spread grafting wax over the top of the
stock and over the cleft or out side of the
scion, so as to exclude the air and water.
When the stock does not close:;^up firmly
upon the scion, it is necessary to bind it up
with cloth dipped in melted grafting wax.
Scarfing the Stock. — Wheji only one
scion is used in a small stock, it is well to
scarf off the side of the stock opposite to
it and cover with wax as before. It heals
very much sooner and presents a much
"more neat appearance.

Splice-grafting. — This is done very neatly and perfectly, upon
stocks which are of the exact size of the scion. Cut off the stock,
with an upward slant of an inch or niore,in length, and the scion
with a similar downward slant; tie the two firmly together with
bass-matting, always fitting their inner barks, or sap-vessels, Jto
each other; next, cover the joint with wax or clay, and you have
performed one of the neatest and surest modes of grafting yet
(known.

A Scarfed Stock

58

'When the stock is brger than the scion, the latter must be fit-
*ie<.l to one side of the former.

^It is often more convenient in practice, to fo7ig-we the stock and
scion together, that is, to cut a corresponding notch or slit in each,
and then fit the two carefully together, tying and claying or wax-
ing the joint, as before.

Small stocks- taken up in the fall and kept in a cellar, are often
gi'afted in winter, by the tire-side, in either of the abovif-desctbed
modes, and then kept in the cellar until spring.

Saddh-grafling. — When the stock and scion are of about the
same size, the operation may be reversed, the cleft being made in
the scion, and the stock wedge-shaped and fitted into it. This
mode is called saddle-grafting. A little wood should be pared
out, on each inner side of the clelt of the scion, so as to fit it bet-
ter to the stock. — G. Jaques.

Budding. — This is always an ensy and convenient method of
working small stocks. It is usually performed, in the latter part
of summer, although it mat/ be done late in the spring; but it is
not advisable to resort to budding in the spring, except where we
have a very valuable scion, which we wish, by subdividing, to in-
crease the chances of saving. In this case, we may cut off the
buds of the scion, and insert them separately, in the manner
which we are about to describe, waiting of* course til! tho sap of
the stock is in full motion. We, in this latitude, (Worcester,)
commence budding Plums, Cherries, Apricots and Pears, the lat-
ter part of July. From the middle of August to the middle of
September, is the season for Apples. From the first to the mid-
dle of September, is better than earlier, for Peaches and Nectar-
ines. It is essential to success, — ^Ist 71iat the bark ef the stock
:>hould part freely from the wood; for whenever, either from the
season of the year or the feeble condition of the stock, the bark
Fra i\ adheres to the wood, the operation will certain-

ly prove a failure. 2d. The bud which is to be
inserted, should be well ripened; otherwise it will
not have vital euei-gy sufficient to establish itself,
in its new location. — JY. E. FriiH Trees.

"Before commencing you should provide your-
self with a buddiug knife, (about four and a half
inches long,) having a rounded blade at one end,
and an ivory handle terminating in a thin round-
ed edge called the haft, at the other.

In choosing your buds, select thrifty shootg
that have nearly done growing, and prepare what
is called a stick of buds, Fig. 6, by cutting off a
few of the imperfect buds at the lower, and such
as may yet be too soft at the upper ends, leaving

only smoothe, well developed, single buds; ddu-
Siock of Buds, ^jg j^j^jg ^^- j.^,^^^ j^^^^_^^ ^^^^ ^ff ^^Q hAV^s,

allowing about half an inch of th6y(y<;^.s•/o//,s to remaia forconren-
iently inserting the buds. Some strands of bass-matting about
twelve or fourteen inches long, previously soaked in water fo ren-
der them sot't and pliable, (^or in the absence of these some soft
woollen yarn,) must a'so be at hand for tying the buds." — Down^

Figs. 7

8

10

]].

Figure 7

Stock prepared for the bud.

8, Bud with the wood taken out.

9, Bud with the wood in.

" 10, Stock with the bud inserted.

^' 11, The bud bound in with bass matting.

American shield budding. — ''Having your stick of buds ready,
choose a smoothe portion of the stock. When the latter is smalP,
let it be near the ground, and, if equally convenient, select also
the north side of the stock, as less exposed to the sun. Make an
upright incision in the bark from an inch to an inch and a half
long, and at the top of this make a cross cut, so that the whole shall
form a T,Fig. 7. From the stick of buds, your knife being very
sharp, cut a thin, smooth slice of wood and bark containing a
bud, Fig. 9. With the ivory haft of your budding knife, now
raise the bark on each side of the incision just wide enough to ad-
mit easily the prepared bud. Taking hold of the footstalk of the
leafj insert the bud under the bark, pushing it gently down to the
bottom of the incision. If the upper portion of the bud projects
above the horizontal part of the T, cut it smoothly off now, so the^t
it may completely fit, Fig. 10. A bandage of the soft matting is now
tied pretty firmly over the whole wound. Fig. 11, commencing at
the bottom, and leaving the bud, and the footstalk of the leaf on-
ly exposed to the light and air." — Downing.

The European method of preparing buds is some-
what different. Having cut it out as in Fig. ^, take

CO

tlie bud between the forefinger and thumb, enter the
point of the knife blade under the wood at the lower
extremity, then raise and draw out the wood by ben-
ding it up and doAvn until it loosens from the bark. —
There should be a small portion of wood remaining
at the heart of the bud or it is worthless. This course
is not recommended by American Fruit-growers on
account of our hot, dry summers.

Fio, 12,

After Management. — In two or three weeks
after inserting the bud, it can be ascertain-
ed, whether or not, it has taken, by its
freshness and plumpness. If it has not,
and the bark still peels, another may be
inserted. In about four weeks after bud-
ding, the matting may be removed. In
the spring when the bud begins to swell,
Crowin^r Bud. ^^^^ stock Can bc cut off within two or
three inches of it. When the bud starts,
all ^^robber" shoots should be trimmed off, to produce
a vigorous growth. When the bud has grown three
inches it may be tied to the stock to insure an upright
tree. The last of July the remaining portion of the.
stock may be cut off as marked Fig. 1 2, a.

Propagating ly Outiings. — The Currant, the Goose-
berry, the Vine, the Quince and the Fig, are the chief
fruits propagated in this way. The wood should be,
of the last years growth and well ripened. Select stocks
about one foot long, and if it is desired to raise stocks
without suckers, cut out the buds as far as you insert
them into the ground, which should be about two
thirds of their length. Cuttings require a deep, rich,
moist soil, and are more successful when planted on
the North side of a fence or wall, and heavily mulch-
ed. The proper time for putting out cuttings is ear-
ly in the spring. They should be cut from the pa-
rent stock in the last part of winter and kept in mod-
erately moist loam.

61

f IG. 1 0. Propagdion by Layers, — liayer-

ing is performed by bending
some of the stocks down, and con-
fining them by a Uttle hooked'
%?^% or a stick drove into the
'^'^ groimd obliquely. Cover the

stock two or three inches deep with good rich earth.
Some nurserymen cut little notches or tongues on the
under side of the twigs bent ; others twist the limb
so as to cause the bark and wood to crack. Mulch
them thoroughly, and when the roots have taken hold,
the layer should be separated from the stock.

SucJcers. — When it is desirable to retain a seedling
fruit upon its own stock, suckers may he used. They
do not make good stocks to graft or bud upon, as the j
are liable to produce a large amount of suckers. —
Raspberries and Blackberries are propagated in this
way.

Stocks for Grafting.'— ^'"li is generally best to raise
stocks of all kinds of fruit trees, from seeds. In the
cultivation of the apple, the pear, and also of the
plum and the cherry, 5'?/c^^--stocks should be carefully
avoided, unless no others can be procured."

Apple Seedling StocJcs may be raised by planting
pomace, in autumn, as soon as it can be obtained from
the cider-mill. It should be before fermentation takes
place. That from young trees is preferred. Sow in
drills four feet apart and cover one inch deep. Keep
the plants clear of weeds during the next summer. — ■
If the soil is sufficiently rich, the plants will be large
enough the second or third spring, to remove to the
nursery row. Their tap roots should be shortened,
and, the stocks planted one foot apart, with four feet
between the rows. If they are thrift};^ and make a
good growth, they may be budded the following au-
tumn. AU small seedlings should be thrown away.—
The soil in the nursery should be deep and rich.

*Tear stocks ma^j be raised from seed, precisely in the mode

62

we have described for Apple seedlings, only let the soil be deep^f
and richer. But the climate of New England is not well adapted
to their growth, and it is not, therefore, advisable lo attempt to
raise them, so long as the foreign stocks can be so cheaply pur-
chased of importing houses, in Boston or New York.

Cherry stocks are generally {raised from seeds of the common
Black Mazzard cherry. Gather the fruit when it is fully ripe,
and sow it immediately in drills, covering, &lc., precisely as direc^
ted for the apple-seedlings.

Pfum-stocks may be had of the importers, or they may be rais-
ed from the seeds of any free growing kinds, in the san^e way as
cherry-stocks, (avoiding the seeds of the damsons, as they are not
easily budded.) A rich, heavy, moist soil suits the plum best." —
Jaques.

Peach Stocks are raised by planting tlie stones in
the spring, about the time that corn is planted. They
should be gathered in the fall, and kept in sand in the
cellar, or covered in the ground until wanted for plant-
ing, when they should be taken up and cracked wdtb
a hammer, alid planted in drills the same as apples. —
The following autumn they should be budded, If the
buds do not live, the stocks should be cut down to
the ground in the spring, and one shoot permitted ta
grow which should be budded the following au-
tumn.

Quince Stocks may be raised from cuttings or seed.
When from the latter pursue the same course as w^ith
apples.

Taking up Trees. — Much of the success attending
transplanting depends lipon this operation. It should
be borne in mind, that a tree is a thing of life, and
should be treated accordingly. If it is convenient,
it is desirable to preserve all the roots and fibres wdiol^,
but as this cannot be done, especially, where the treeR
stand in nurseries, it should be the aim of every on^^
taking them up to do it as carefully as possible. The
fibrous roots are all important, as it is through these
that the tree receives its nourishment from the ground.
We have seen people in performing this operation,
use great care to preserve the large roots, but break
off the small, fibrous ones as though they were entire-

6^

o

ly useless. Nothing could be more fatal than this
usage. After the tree is taken up, all bruised places
should be smoothly pared with a knife, and the ends
of the roots that have been broken, trimmed off. If
the tree is not set out immediately, it should be heel-
ed in ; that is, there should be a trench dug and the
trees laid in, in horizontal position, so that loam can
be worked in among the roots sufficiently to exclude
air. Trees are frequently kept so for months before
transplanting.

Tramplantiiuf. — This is one of the most important
operations performed by the fruit-grower, and one
too, that is oftener pertbrmed amiss, than any other.
The ground should be well prepared by plowing and
subsoiling and a thorough cultivation of a root crop,
the year previous to transplanting. Having the
ground in good condition, commence by preparing
the place to set the tree. Eemove the soil from it,
from four to eight feet in diameter, according to the
size of the tree to be set, and place it in a pile by it-
self; then remove the subsoil to a pile by itself also.
Make a little mound in the centre with sods and rot-
ted tarf, and place the tree upon it. Be extremely
Cctreful not to have it too deep. This is the error of
most g-ardeners. The loss of more than one half of
the trees that die is attributable to this error alone. —
The tree should not be set any deeper than it stood
in the nursery. The roots should be straightened out
into their original positions, and then some fine loam
scattered upon them. It is well to put about the
roots^ but not so as to touch them, a little old and well
rotted manure, or a compost made of two parts of
peat and one of stable manure, which had been incor-
porated the year previous. Fallow soil answers a ve-
ry good purpose. As you proceed, work the soil about
the roots, so that it shall touch them in every part,
otherwise, they mould and decay. Be careful to
save all the fibrous roots as it is through these that the
tree receives nourishment. Occasionally mix in a lit-

u

tie of the subsoil, but reserve the iBOst of it for fin-
ishing off about the tree, where it is enriched by culti-
vation and exposure to the a^^nd frosts. When the
place is nearly filled, pour in^^ailfiil of water, and
let it settle about the roots. Level the ground about
the tree and press the soil with the feet. Be careful
not to lift the tree up and down during the process of
transplanting, thinking thereby to fix the soil more
firmly about the roots, for it is a pernicious practice;
treading with the feet is sufficient.

The proper time for transplanting is in the fall, af-
ter the tree has done grovvdng, and is in a dormant
state, say from the last of September to the middle of
October ; or early in the spring before the sap is in
active circulation. The latter time, is undoubtedly
much the more favorable season for New Hampshire,
Tender trees like the Peach, Apricot, ^c„ should al-
ways be transplant ofl in fhc^ '•^pri.vi".
Fig, 14.

Lcdick. — When a tree is
transplanted, and budded or
grafted, it should be labelled.
It is vexations to loose the
name of a fruit, as a person
will frequently do, if he trusts to memory. Many a
nurseryman has found this out to his loss. Where
the fruit stands in rows a stick labelled with its name
may be placed at the head of the row, and answer for
all the trees in it. Where this is not the case, there
must be a label for each tree. A cheap way of ma-
king them, is to take thin pieces of pine wood, paint
them with wliite lead paint, and write the name up-
on it with a black lead pencil while the paint is yet
undried. These may be attached to the tree with
small ir(m or copper wire. As the tree enlarges, loos-
en the wire so that it shall not girdle it. Fig. 14 is a
sample of this kind of label. Another way is to cut
the number in the bark, or attach a piece of lead or
j^iinc. stamped wifb tlif number, and keep the num-

bei*s with the name of the fruit annexed, m a small
memorandum book. A little time spent in this way
saves much troublai^ij^f it is desirable to increase
any kind of fruit. ^^^

P)'uning-"y ery compact tops muy need thinning. Be cautious about
going into a tree to prune with hard boots or shoes on, when the
bark peels. Use a tine saw for iarge brunches, then pare srnooth-
Iv. Various applications are made where large limbs are cut. —
Grafting composition, also a mixture of equal parts of clay and
cow manure, are used for large wj.unds from cutting of limbs and
injuries. Alcohol, with as much shellac dissolved in it as will
make it of the consistence of paint*, applied with a painter's brush
is excellent. It excludes the air and water, and is unaffected' by
change of weather.

Many prune in the spring'^'from custom, and others in Jnne be-
cause the wound heals quickly, not reflecting th.^^; it is of more
importance that the w». und heal soundly than quickly. We give
directions according to our experience for 30 years.

Slight pruning, in which very small limbs, or dead limbs of any
size, a.''e removed, may be performed when most convenient, in
any season. Moderate pruning should be done in June, July or
August, though it will answer very well till Dec. If trees are
pruned in Jyly, Aug,, or September, the wood will become hard,
sound, and well seasoned, aiid commence^ healing over; and it is
not material, otherwise than for appearance, whether it heals ov-
er the first, second, or third year, as it will remain in a healthy
state.

We should prefer Oct., I^ov., or even Dec, to the spring,
which is the worst season. The trees ther? are full of sap, and it
oozes out at the wound, which turns black and decays, like a tree
cut in the spring, and allowed to retain the baik. But if limba,
ever so large, are cut in Aug. and Sept., the wood will become
hard and remain so, if it never heals over."

"Side shoots of young or nursery trees should not be cut off at
first, as it will induce weakness in the stem, the trees will bend
over, and staking cannot save them. The only remedy is to cut
them off, and let them start anew." — iS. PF. Cole.

Training. — This is not much practiced in this State
but might undoubtedly be made serviceable in orna-
menting grounds and also in producing some kinds of
fruits in greater abundance. There are several meth-
ods in use. The Horizontal is adapted to training ap-
ples, pears, grapes, &c.; the Fan^ grapes, peaches, ap-
ricots, plums, figs, &c.; and the Pjframidal and Que^
mnelle to penrs.

G6

^'Horizontal training consisis in \^reser\ing an upright leader,
with lateral shoots trained at regular intervals. These intervals
may be from a foot to eighteen incJ|^lor pears and apples, and
about nine inches for cherries and^^B|b*' *A maiden plant with
three shoots having been procured, i^^wo side shoots are laid ia
horizontally, and the centre one upright, all the buds being rub-
bed off the latter but three, viz , one next the t(ip for a vertical
leader, and one on each side near the lop, for horizontal branches.
In the course of the first summer after planting, the sjioots may
be allowed to grow without being stopped. In the autumn of the
first year the two laterals produced are nailed or tied in, and also
the shoots produced from the extremities of the lower laterals;
the centre shoot being headed down as before. But in the second
summer, when the main shoot has attained the length of ten or
twelve inches, it may be stopped; which, if the plant is in proper
vigor, will cause it to throw out two horizontal branches, in addi-
tion to those which were thrown out from those of the preceding
year. The trie will now be in its second summer, and will have
four horizontal branches on each side of the upright stem, and by
persevering in this system four horizontal branches will be produc-
ed in each year till the tree reaches the top of the wall (or espa-
lier,) when the upright stem must terminate in two horizontal
branches."

'^ Fan- training, — A maiden plant (a tree but one year from the
graft,) being planted 'is to be headed down to four buds or eyes,
placed in such a manner as to throw out two shoots on each side.
The following season the two uppermost shoots are to be headed
down to three eyes, placed in such a manner as to throw out one
leading shoot, and one shoot on each side; the two lowermost
shoots are to be heade^ down to two eyes, so as to throw out one
leading shoot, and one shoot on the uppermost side. We have
now five leading shoots on each side, well placed, to form our fu-
ture tree. Each of these shoots must be placed in the exact po-
sition in which it is to remain; and as it is these shoots which are
to form the future tree, none of them are to be shortened. The
tree should by nolneans be suffered to bear any fruit -this year.
Each shoot must now be allowed to produce, besides the leading
shoot at its extremity, two other shoots on the uppermost side, one
near the bottom and one about midway up the stem; there must
also be one shoot on the undermost side, placed about midway be-
tween the other two. All the other shoots must be pinched off in
their infant state. From this time it may be allowed to bear what
crop of fruit the gardener thinks it able to carry; in determining
which, he ought never to overrate the viaor of the tree. All of
these shoots, excepting the leading ones, must at the proper sea-
son be shortened, but to what length must he left entirely to the
judgment of the gardener, it of course depending upon the vigor
of the tree. \n shortening the shoot, care should be taken to cut
*jack to a wood bud that will produce a shool for the following

67

yeSr. Cm close to the bud, so that tlie wound may he-il the fol-
lovving season."

**In nailintr to a wall, care must be t;ikcri not to bruise any p;irt
of the shoot; the wounds mjBe by tiie knife heal quickly, but a
bruise often proves incural?!^ Never let a 4mil gall any part of
the tree; it will endanger the life of thfi branch. In nailing-in
the young shoots, dispose them as straight and regular as possi-
ble; it will look workman-like." — Suburban Horticulturalist .

'•QvencuiUc Trmn'mg. — To produce Quenouille standards, plant
a young tree, three or four feei high, and, after the first summer's
growth, head back the top, and cut-in the side branches. The
next season the tree will shoot out three or four tiers of side
branches, according to its strength. The lowest should be left
about eighteen inches from the ground, and, by pinching off su-
perfluous shoots, others may be made to grow pretty regularly, so
as not to crowd the head. At the end of this season head back
the leader to strengthen the side shoots. Next season a fresh se-
ries of lateral shoots will be produced, four or five of which may
be kept every year; and, the third or fourth y6ar, the lower
branches may be bent down in midsummer, and kept in a pendu-
lous position for a year or two, by tying them to stakes driven in
the ground, or to the main stem. The successive growth at the
top, and arrangement of the limbs below, must be coutinued till
the requisite height—say ten feet — is attained. A moderate prun-
ing to produce ^[ew wood, and the occasional tying in of a ramb-
ling shoot, will be all that is required."

Fig. 15. Pyramidal Training. — This is

perforlned like tlie last with the
exception of tying down the
branches^ which is omitted. It
' gives a beautiful form and expo-
ses all parts equally to light and
air.

To induce Early , Bearing. — "Root
Pruning has been practiced of late
years, for this purpose. The roots are
laid bare, and some of the longest are
cut off a few feet from the tree; this
checks its growth, and early bearing is
the result. This is practised also for the
purpose of dwarfing in gardens, where
Pyramidal Training, f g^^^j, ^^^^^ ^^^ preferred. The fall is a

favorable season for this operation, but it shortens the life and
restricts the size of the tree, and ranks with the fancy work of
the amateur."

"Bending the limbs down, and fastening them in that position,

u

ivs in queiiouilk training, letains the snp itz ibein, inducing bear-
I'Dg and improvement in fruit, without injury to the tree. Hence
th'»re is more phih>sophy than whim in the saying, that tiie bend-
ing down of fruit trees by heavy snjjj^indicates a fruitful season.

Transplanting a tree frequently has a tendency to check its
growth, and cause early bearing; but it v/ill reduce its size, and
{shorten its life. The eftect is the same as root pruning, as roots
are lost by removal.

Slocks. — By putting scions into stocks of slow growth, as pears
on quince and thorns, luxuriant pluras on Canada stocks, peaches
on plums, apples on paradise stocks, the effect is similar to root
pruning, both irr causing early bearing and in the final effect on
the tree.

Shortening-in is the most successful, convenient, and least in^
jii'rious mode. In July, clip off'abont a third of the present years
growth; this will cause the formation of blossom buds, instead of
an extension of wood, as would be the case without clipping. We
have found this very effectual with the peach. If buds have sefc
naturally, cutting off half the last year's growth early in the spring
^ill generally improve the fruit by reducing its quantity. — Cole's
Fruit Book.

To protect Trees from Mice. — During winter mice
from want of food often girdle trees. To prevent
this, tread the snow about the trunks after each storm;
or raise a mound of earth about each tree. If they
come out upon the snow as they sometimes do, tie
about the trunks, shingles, old barrel staves, old can-
\^a8s, &c.

Insects, ^'Insects are kept away from plants and trees, chiefly by
strong offensive odors. Some of those that have proved effectu-
al, are the odor of chamomile^ that of coal-tar from the gas works,
the vapor from oil of turpentine, &c.

Insects may he killed by liquid applications. The best liquids
yet known for this purpose are tobacco ivater, and diluted whale
oil soap.

Tobocco water is made by bo'ling any refuse tobacco in water.
It mast not be excessively strong.

The whale oil soap is prepared, by mixing one pound of it with
seven or eight gallons of water. These liquids may be applied
to plants, with a water-pot, or a syringe having a water-pot rose
upon the end of it so as to scatter the water more effectually

Half a pound of quassia, boiled a few minutes in six quarts of
water, is a liquid said to be quite as etTicacioua as the tobacco-
water.

All plant lice and almost all small insects, can be killed, by the
application of either of these liquids. A mixture of them might

\

\

09

.poisibly be even more effectual than either used by itself.. Strong
suds made of common soap answers tolerably well, in many cases.

Much has been accomplished, by kindling bonfires in a fruit-
garden, at night. ThousancJ^ of winged insects, from a sort of
instinctive fondness for the light, fly into thfese fires aiid perish at
once.'

Wide-mouthed bottles, filled with molasses and water, and sus-
pended among the trees, will speedily become full of inkect^,^' '

Apple Tre? Borer. — Tliis insect "is from the larv?^
of tte two striped sapeda (&jt?<?^/a hivitiati) The up-
per part of the body of the perfect insect is marked
with two longitudinal ^hite stri^oes, among others of
a light brown, while the face, antennaB^ the iinder
side: of the body and legs, are white. It is about 3-|
of an ii;ch long. This beetle cpmes from the tree in
June and feeds iipon the leaves. From June to Aug«'
it deposits its Qgg-:i on the bark of the tree at the
ground." The larvaB or young borers, from the ^g^g^j
are fleshy, round, whitish grubs, without ' legs, taper-
iiig from the first ring. The first season it eat«
through the bark — -the next, it penetrates the wood
about *t>velve inches. The third season it comet ta
the mouth of tlie hole^ a full sized borer, anS there
changes to the beetle, [sap^da UvUtati.)

To Mil them, run a piece of wire or whalebone into
their holes, or smoke them with lighted brimstone
matches, or put a small piece of gum camphor in the
hole and plug it up. To prevent their depositing eggs,
"wash the trunks of the trees with a solution of whale-
oil soap and hendu^g, or lye of wood ashes that will
Bear up an ^gg.

Apple Worm or Codling Moth. — This bpautiful moth
deposits its eggs in the eye of apples ' and summei:'
pears, during the last part of June and July/ They
hatch in a few days, and eat into the apples, which
causes them to ripen prematurely and fall upon the
ground. They then make their egress and entering
some crevice of the tree, spin a cocoon about them,
in which they remain until spring. To destroy ihem^
jpick up the defective fruit as fast as it falls and feed it

7t)

to hogs. Scrape the loose bark from the trees in the
spring, and erush the cocoons. When they are in the
winged state, build bonfires.

Barh Louse.-— This is a small, oval, white insect, that
deposits its eggs under a thin scale upon the bark of
apple trees. Wash the trees with a solution made of
2 lbs. Potash to 2 gall. Water.

The Canker Worm. This worm, [mmopteri/x pomeich
ria, of JIurnSy) is very destructive to apple trees in
some parts of N. E. The male is a moth with wings;
the female is without wings. They come out of
the ground as soon as the frost is out, and the females
slowly climb up the tree where the males mate with
them. The eggs. are deposited in the forks of limbs
and on young twigs. They number about one hun-
dred to an insect, and are arranged in rows. About
the middle or last of May, they hatch out and brown
or ash colored worms, with yellow stripes on their
backs^ commence their devastation upon the foliage.
After feeding about four weeks, they descend into th©
ground and there remain in a chrysalis form until the
ensuing spring.

7h destroy litem, place a band of canvass four or six
inches wide around tlie trunk of the tree, and cover
it with tar and oil mixed, or with melted India rubber.
The female wlien attempting to climb is caught in
this and killed. Dig the ground over late in the fall^
so that. the worm in the chrystdis form may freeze.

Fig. 10.

Vvrculio. — The Curculio, known to.
naturalists by the name, llhi/nchoenm
Nenuphar^ is one of the most serious hin-
derences to the cultivation of the
pliun. Its habits are not fully known.
It is a small, dark brown^^ winged beetle,
scarcely one fifth of an inch long, with

spots of white, yellow, and black. It has two hump;?

on its back and a pretty long curved neck and snout,

71

i?7hicliwhen at rest are "bent between the forelegs. —
It makes its appearance during the month of April
und commences its destructive operation soon after
the blossoms have fallen and the young fruit is form-
ed. It flies from the ground into the tree. This oc-
curs sometime during the month of May. It contin-
ues its depredations until August. By examining the
young fruit in districts where the curculio w^orks small
semicircular punctures may be found. These punct-
ures are the ^-crescent-shaped msignia of that little
Turk, the curculio." In each of these, an egg, so small
as to be invisible to the eye, is deposited. In July
the egg is hatched and becomes a small white grub or
larva, which eats its way to the stone. This causes
the fruit to fall. The larva works its way out of the
plum and into the ground. Here it remains in the
chrysalis form until it emerges in the spring a perfect
beetle. In some few cases it has been proved that it
comes out in about twenty days after it entered* But
this is supposed to arise from not having worked its
way into the ground but a short distance. No plan
as yet has been devised by which we can entirely rid
ourselves of this pest of the plum tree. Strong and
powerful odors are very offensive to most insects.—^
Some have been successful in raising crops of plums
after years of disappointment, by smoking the irtrees.
This is done by taking a pan of coals and putting up-
on them leaf tobacco, scraps of leather, brimstone,
&c., and holding them so that the fumes may ^ass
through the foliage. This should be done freqiieiitly
from the time the plum forms until it gets out of the
way of the weevil. Some build up fires near the
trees and partly smother them so that the smoke will
arise during the whole day. Others syringe the trees
with strong' scented solutions, such as tobacco w^ater,
solutions of whale oil soap, and we think that a very
weak solution of Kreosote from its strong smoky
scent might be useful. Care should be taken that the
^Bolutions are not so strong as to injure the leaves,—-

Salt is also useful. It should be spread under th(*
tree when the plums begin to fall. The ground should
be made smooth and hard. Downing recommends
that it be spread to the depth of one fourth of an
inch as far out as the limbs extend. The plums fall-
ing upon this the larvuD die before they can work their
way into the ground. The salt is an excellent fertili-
zer for the plum, Ahother method is to place sheets
under the tree at. morning and night and strike the
tr\ink with a padded malet and as the curculios fall
kill them. Large crops of plums are saved in this
way. Aiiother way is to pick the plums as they fall
and burn them. This should be done whichever way
is pursued, as this destroys the next years brood of in-
sects.

By pursuing some or all of the above processes, our
plum crops would be very much benefited. We hope
our plum cultivators will try them. Above we give
a cut of a pluin with a curculio and two crescent
marks upon it, although the insect seldom makes but
one if there ai^e plums enough Tor its purposes.

Caterpillars, — These well knoSvn insects make a web
for shelter and are in it morning, noon, night and du-
ring wet weather. They iiiay then be crushed, or
burnt with sulphur "or turpentine, or destroyed vnt^
strong tobacco water.

Peach Tree Borers,- — :The j)^i'fsct in^^ects are sleu;
der, dark blue, four-winged moths, resembling wasp^.
They deposit their eggs from June to Oct. in the soflt
bark of the trunk at the ground. These hatch and
become the borers. They enter a.nd destroy the bark
and sap of the tree, causing it to die. After passing
the winter in the tree, they enfold in cocoohs, and
emerge again in June. To protect the treesy put ashes
or air-slacked lime about the base of the trunks.

^S'/w^^— These arc dark olive colored insects, some*

what resembling snails. They prey Upon the;lea<y'e$

^of cherry and pear frees and rose bushes. To IdU

ihem^ dust the trees uitli ashes when the deW it on, or
sho^yer them with strong soap suds.

APPLES,

"Theiippie will flourish in almost every stjil and locat'fon, n\i-
der good management; but the best soil'ts a tolerably moist, ieep
loam, iaclining to marl or clay, with a good portion of vegetabld
mould. Most tillage, suitable for grass, potatoes, cabbages, and
where corft will well flourish in dry seasons, is better f^r the ap-
ple than dryei soils. Rocky and stony lands are preferable, and
all the small stones should not be removed. A hard pan foi^dis a
good bottom, but a porous sub-soil is unfavorable.

Moderate elevations, or ufidulating lands, or hills, are the most
suitable locations. In very low, sheltered situatioiis, there is
more exposure to the extremes of heat and cold, and I^te spring
frosts, and early fall freezes; yet the apple is hardy and will gen-
ally fiucceed in such situations. On very high locatioiiis, especial^
ly on the tops of mountains and high hills, and some other bleak
places, there is too great exposure to winds arid peltiifJg storms,
which may injure the blossoms, fruit, and foliage."

"Early Harvest. — Prince- s Harvest, July Pippin of Floy,
YelUw Harvest, Large IVJiite Juneating, Tart Bough, Ao
American apple; and taking into account its beauty, its excellent
qualities for the dessert and for cooking, and its productiveness,
we think it the finest early apple yet known. It bephs to ripen
about the first of July, and continues in use all that rbonth. The
smallest collection of apples should comprise this anci the Red As-
trachan. Form round, above mecJium siee, rarely & little flatten-
ed. Skin very smooth, with a few faint white dots, bright straw
color when fully ripe. Stalk half to three fourths of an inch
long, rather slender, inserted in a hollow of moi^erate depth. —
Calyx set in a shallow basin. Flesh very white, tender and juicy,
crisp, with a rich, sprightly, sub-acid flavor. Tlie young trees
of moderate vigor, with scarcely diverging shoots. Manning errs
by following Coxs in calling this a flat apple."

"Red Astrachan. — A fruit of extraordinary beauty, first im-
ported into England with the White Astrachan, from SwedcB, in
1816. It bears abundantly with us, and its sihgular richness of:
color is heightened by an exquisite bloom oil the surface q£ th»
fruit, like that of a plum. It is one af the handsomest dessert
fruits, aud its quality is good, but if not taken from the tree a»
soon as ripe, it is liable to become mealy. Itipens from the last
of July to the middle of August.

Fruit pretty large, rather above the middle size, and Very
smooth and fair, roundish, a little narrowed towards the eye. —
Skin almost entirely covered with crimson, with sometimes a kittle
Vretnisli yellow in the shade, and occasionally a little rtisset iiear

the stalk, and covered with a pale white bloom. Stalk rather
short and deeply inserted. Calyx set in a slight basin, f which is
sometimes a little irregular. Flesh quite white, crisp, moderate-
ly juicy, with an agreeable, rich, acid flavor." — Jl. J. Downing.

"Sweet Bough, August Sweeting,, Bough, Yellow Bough. —
Large; roundish-conical; smooth, greenish-yellow; stem rath-
er slender, in a deep narrow cavity; calyx medial, deeply
sunk; flesh whitish, very tender, juicy, of a rich, sprightljt, sac-
charine flavor. During August. Good grower, good and con-
stant bearer. Throughout the country the best early sweet apple
known. Hardy, and adapted to various climates and soils. Na-
tive."—^. fV. Cole.

"Early Strawberry Apple. — American Red Juncating. A
beautifuTvariety- which is^said^to have originated in the neighbor-
hood of New York, and appears in the markets there from July
till September. Its sprightly flavor, agreeable perfume, and fine
appearance, place it among the very finest summer apples. It is
quite distinct from the early Red Margaret, which has no fra-
grance, and a short stem.

Fruit roundish, narrowing towards the eye. Skin smooth and
fair, finely striped and stained with bright and dark red, on yel-
lowish or white ground. Stalk an inch and a half long rather
slender and uneven, inserted in a deep cavity. Calyx rather
small, in a shallow, narrow basin. Flesh white, slightly tinged
with red next the skm, tender, sub-acid, and very sprightly and
brisk in flavor, with an agreeable aroma." — Dotvning.

''Porter. — Large; oblong-ovate; smooth, rich yellow, a dull
blush in the sun; stem medial, in a rather narrow, deep cavity;
calyx large, open, in a rather narrow, deep basin: flesh tolerably
ficie and tender, very juic/, of a rich, excellent, slightly acid fla-
vor. For cooking and the dessert. September and into October.
A good grower and great bearer. The principal September ap-
ple in the Boston market. It also succeeds well in the Middle
States, and in the West. Generally yields about twice as much
in even as in odd years. By Rev, S. Porter, Sherburne, Ms." —
Cole. /

"Gravenstein. — Fruit large, about three inches and a half in
diameter, broadest at the base, generally flattened, sometimes
rather oblong, wilh angles which terminate in the crown. Eye
rather wide, sunk in^a deep hollow, surrounded by several project-
ing folds or knobs. Stalk very short, deeply inserted. Skin
smooth, of a clear yellowish green or straw color, streaked and
mottled with red on the sunny side. Flesh pale yellow, crisp,
with a highly:flavored vinous juice. A dessert apple, ripening in
the autumn, but will keep till April." — Lindley.

"Jewett's 'R,ETf,JVodhead. — Medial; flattish-round; bright dark
red, very little greenish yellow; very short stem, in a very shal-
low cavity; small calyx in a slight basin; flesh yellowish, remark-

ably tender, almost melting, like a fine pear; mild, approaching
to saccharine, of a delicious aromatic flavor. For the dessert on-
ly. Oct. and Nov. A good grower till it begins to bear ; a good
bearer. Adapted to the North. Requires a good soil and high
culture, else the fruit will not be fair. Origin, Hollis, N. H. —
Much cultivated in that State and Maine. It is beautiful and of
the first quality." — Cole.

"Fall Pippin. — Fruit large,'some\vhat pyramidal in form, a lii-
tle higher on one side than the other. Eye rather deeply sunk in
an even basin. Stalk short and thick, the fruit sitting close to
the- branch. Skin of a yellowish green, with a tinge of blush, or
rather brownish c^st, on the sunny side. Flesh tender, white and
juicy, of a rich aromatic flavor. Ripe in November.

This is one of our finest fall apples; and when in full perfec-
tion is not surpassed by any, either for the dessert when ripe, or
for culinary purposes a month earlier ; it however does not keep
long." — Floy.

"Mother Apple. — Rather large; roundiish, slightly ovale ; very
little yellow, marbled and striped with red, very dark and bright
in the sun, the red is interspersed with russety dots ; stem three
quarters of an inch long, rather slender, in a broad, tolerably deep
cavity; calyx small, nearly closed, in a narrovv, tolerably deep,
irregular basin; flesh yellowish, very terider, almost m.elting, mild,
rich, highly aromatic, with a delightful mingling of slightly sub-
acid and saccharine qualities; aroma resembling Chick-winter-
green. Last of Oct, to Jan. We find it perfectly hardy in Me.,
moderate grower, a good and constant bearer. In quality it has
po superior, and very few eqnals. Origin, Bolton, Ms."— Co/e.

"Baldwin. — Woodpecker, Pecker. The Baldwin stands at the
head of all New England apples, and is unquestionably a first
rate fruit in all respects. It is a native of Massachusetts, and -is
more largely cultivated for^the Boston market than any other sort.
It bears most abundantly with us, and we have had the satisfac-
tion of raising larger, more beautiful, and highly flavored speci-
mens here, than we ever saw in its native region. The Baldwin,
in flavor and general characteristics, evidently belongs to the fami-
]y of Esopus Spitzenburgh, arid deserves its extensive popularity.

Fruit large, roundish, and narrowing a little to the eye. Skiq
yellow in the shade, but nearly covered and striped with crimson,
red, and orange, in the sun; dotted with a few large russet dots,
and with radiating streaks of russet about the stalk. Calyx clos-
ed, set in a rather narrow, plaited basin. Stalk half to three
fourths of an inch long, rather slender for so large a fruit, planted
in an even, moderately deep cavity. Flesh yellowish white, crisp,
with that agreeable mingling of the saccharine and acid which
constitutes a rich, high flavor. The tree is a vigorous, upricrht
grower, and bears most abundantly. Ripe from November t^
March, but with us, is iq perfection in January." •

76

•'i^Vi'ELTiNG, Ladils'. — The Ladies' Sweei^ing wc consider th«
finest winter sweet apple, for the dessert, yet known or cuhivateil
in this country. Its handsome appearance, delightful perfunie,
aprigh^ly flavour, and the long time which it remains in perfection,
render it uniyersally admired wherever it is known, and no gar-
den &hould be without it. It is a native of this neifrhborhood,, and
thousands of trees of this variety, have been sent from this gar-
den, to various parts of the union. The wood is not very stro'ng,
but it grows thriftily, and bears very abundantly. ' ' -

Fruit large, roundish-ovate, narrowing pretty rapidly tovyards
the eye. Skin very smooth, nearly covered with red in the siin,
but pale yellov^^ish-green in the shade, with broken stripes of pal^
red. The red is sprinkled with well marked, yellowish-gray dots,
and covered, when first gathered, with a thin white bloom. There
is also generally a faint marbling of cloudy white over the red, on
the shady side of the fruit, and the rays of the same around the
etalk. Calyx quite small, set in a narrow, shallow, plaited basin.
Stalk half an irichlong, in a shallow cavity. Flesh greenish-white
exceedingly tender, juicy and crisp, with a delicious, spriglitly,
agreeably perfumed flavor. Keeps without shrivelling, or losing
its flavor, till May." — Downing.

•*Rhode I3LAND Greening. — Large; flattish; smooth, pale-
grccn, brownish cheek, full in the sun; stalK two thirds of a,n
inch long, rather slender; calyx small, closed, in a shallow, plait-
ed basin; flesd yellowish, fine, tender, crisp, juicy, slightly acid
and aromatic. Last of Nov. to Feb. Rapid and stout grower,
great bearer. Excellent for cooking, and pretty good for eating.
One of the very best for main crops. It succeeds well on rather
light, sandy sojl. It is the leading apple in R. I., the place of its
origin; one of the principal in New Englaiid, generally, and N.
Y. In this section the Baldwin is more profitable for the market,
^ut this is equally valuable for Family use."

"RoxBuRY Russet, Boston Russet, Putnam Musset in O. Rath-
er large; flattish; yellow russet, rarely a faint blush; stem medi-
al, slender, in a rather shallow cavity; calyx closed, in a moder-
Ute basin; (Jesh greenish-white, rather dry, when fully ripe, slight-
ly acid and pleasant. Pretty good for coosing, not first-rate for
|ho dessert. Late Winter, Spring, and early Summer. A mod-
erate grower, and great bearer, in a very moist, strong, rich soil,
otherwise unprofitable. Very apt to fail from unfavorable weath-
er in spring, or other causes; yet important from its late keeping.
Prigin, Rbxbury, Als." — Cole.

"Northern Spy. — This beautiful new American fruit is one of
ifhc most delicious, fragrant, and sprightly of all late dessert ap-
pijes. It ripens in January, }^eepn till June, and always coi^-
inandd the highest market price. The tree is of rapid, upright
growth, and bears, moderate crops. It originated on the farm o{
QliTtr Chapin, of Bloorofield, near Rochester, N. Yv

Fruit large, conical flattened. Skin thin, snnooth, in the shade
greenish or pale yellow, in the sun covered with light and dark
stripes of puri)lish-red, marked with a few pale dots, and a thin,
while bloom. Stalk three-fourths of an inch long, rather slender,
planted in a very wide, deep cavity, marked with russet. Calyx
small, closed; basin narrow, abrupt, furrowed. Flesh white,
fine-gr.iined, tender, slightly sub-acid, with a peculiarly fresh and
delicious flavor." — Downing.

Those who would go beyond the above descriptive
list can select from the following kinds those that will
prove satisfactory and profitable.

Benoni, Summer Rose, William's Earl?/ Red, Pumpkin
Sweeting, Shaker's Pipinn of Pineo,Ly scorn, Maiden's Blush,
lluhhardston Nonsuch, Leland's Spice, Esopiis Spizcnlmrg,
Broadwell, Rihstone Pippin, and Danvars Winter Sweet-
ing. The Red and Yellotv Siberian Crah apples are or-
namental and fine for preserving.

APEICOTS.
These require a warm situation and a protection of
straw in the winter in our latitude. They are well
adapted to wall training. They should be budded up-
on Plum stocks and headed in during the month of
August. When budded on the Plum, it does best on
strong, moist soils. "The fruit resembles that of a
peach externally; the stone is like that of a plum,
and the flesh of some kinds seems to be intermediate
between the two."

Breda. — Fruit rather small, its general form roundish, but often
approaching to be somewhat four-sided. The Suture is moderate-
ly deep, with a depression at its termination on the summit The
Skin, where exposed to the sun, is of a deep, brownish orange. —
Flesh deep orange, parting freely from the stone, juicy, rich, and
high flavored. Stone rather small, roundish, compressed, but not
so much as in some others. Kernel sweet, like a hazel-nut. Ri-
pens from the beginning to the middle of August."

MooRPARK. — "Fruit large, of a roundish figure, about seven
inches and a half in circumference each way, deeply hollowed at
the base, and compressed on its sides, one of which is swelled
considerably more than the other at the suture, which gives it an
oblique appearance. Skin pale yellow on the shaded side, but of
a deep orange color, shaded and marbled with brownish red on the
side next the sun, and full of dark specks. Flesh very firm, bright
orange, separating clean from the stone. Juice plentiful and ex-

78

cellent. Stone rather rugged, with a pervious passage, contaisi-'
ing a bitter kernel. Ripe the end of August and beginning of
September."

Roman. — Fruit middle sized, in form slightl}^ compressed, in-
clining to oval, Skin dull straw color, wuh a little dotting of or-
ange or red on the sunny side, but in such small quantity, that tiie
skin has alwuys a pallid appearance. Suture shallow. Flesh
dull pale straw color, soft, dry, rather meally, with a little sweet-
ness and acidity. Stone flat, oblong, rather obtuse at each end,
with a very even surface, separating from the flesh. Kernel very
bitter. Hipe the middle of August. The Roman Apricot is the
most common in our gardens; its principle recommendations are
its hardiness and plentiful bearing. It is best before fully ripe."—
Lindley,

BLACKBERRIES.

This fruit is being much improved by eultivation
and where the wild berry is not easily obtained it pays
to cultiyate it. It grows on either a tolerably dry, or a
deep, moist soil. The ground should be cultivated
and made rich and mellow. The methods of propa-
gation are by off-sets of old roots or by seeds. The
improved High Bush and the .Buil^ are the most es-
teemed kinds,

GiiEiiEIES.

The Cherry does best on a good sandy or gravelly
loam. Being hardy it will produce fruit in a variety
of soils, but if planted in a very moist place it is short
lived. It is propagated by budding the finer
sorts upon seedlings of the common black mazzard.

Early White Heart. — "Fruit below medium size, rather ob-
long heart shaped, often a little one-sided. Suture quit-^. distinct.
Stalk an inch and three fourths long, rather slender, inserted in a
wide shallow cavity. Skin dull Vvliiiish yellow, tinged and speck-
led with pale red in the bun. Flesh half tender, unless fully ripe,
v/hen it is melt ing, with a sweet and pleasant Havcur. 'J'ree growd
rather erect, v/ith a distatF-like head when young Tn the nursery
tiie youns; trees are easily knov/n by their Son^ andsiena,. shoots,.
with few br;inches. First of June."

Mayduke. — "This valuable cherry is one of the most popular
aortfj in all countries, 'hrivinfr almost equally well in cold or warm-
dim .tes. This, the Black Heart, and the Biganeau, are the
most extensively diffusec all the (ine» varieties in the United
States. And anions all the new varieties none has been found

79

fto -supplant the Mayduke."

"Fruit roundish or obtuse he.nt-shaped, growing in clusters. —
Skin at first oT a lively red, but when fully ripe of a rich dark
red, Flesh reddish, tendur and melting, very juicy, and, at ma-
turity, rich and excellent in flavour. This fruit is most frequent-
ly picked while it is yet red, and partially acid, and before it at-
tains its proper color or flavour. It begins to color, about New
York, in favorable seasons, the last of May, and ripens durinar
the first half of June." — Bownhig.

Black Tartarean". — "A very large heart-shaped fruit, of mosrt
superior quality; color dark shining purple, or black; flesh firm,
dark red or purple, sweet and of most excellent flavour. The
very best cherry yet known with us. The tree and fruit combine
an assemblage of good qualities which never meet but in a very
■extraordinary fruit; an elegant, very rapid growing tree, of great
productiveness, very large and beauiiful fruit, and excellent quali-
ty. Supposed to have originated in Spain; thence carried to Cir-
cassia. or Russia; from Russia it was brought to England by Mr.
John Frazier." — Wtn Kenrich.

Black Heart. — "Fruit pretty large, gro%ving, for the mdst
part, singly, heart-shaped, a little flattened at the apex, compress-
ed on one side, with a slight suture. Stalk one inch and a half
long, slender. Skin of a dark purple, approaching to black when
fully ripe. Flesh pale red, rather firm, but mellow, with a rich,
well flavored ji'.ice. Ripe the end of July or beginning of Au-
gust."— Lindhy.

Black Eagle. — "Tolerably large; obtuse, heart-shaped; pur-
plish-black; stalk medial length, rather slender; flesh deep-pur-
ple, rather tender, with the richest and finest flavor. A standard
of excellence. Ripens the last of June, a few days later than
the Black Tartarean. Hardy and suitable for the North; a o-ood
bearer, a good grower, rather spreading, forming a round, com-
pact head. Leaves large. English origin." — Cole.

Downer's Late Red. — "This valuable late cherry was raised
by Samuel Downer, Esq., an ardent cultivator of Dorchester, near
Boston. It is a very regular and gre,it bearer, rioens about &
week after the cherry season, and hangs for a considerable time
on the tree. It is a deiicinus, meliing fruit, and deserves a place
in every garden. Fruit of medium size, roundish, heart-shaped,
inclining to oval. Skin very smooth, of a soft but lively red,
mottled with a little amber in the shade. Stalk inserted with a
very slight depression. Flesh tender, melting, with a sweet and
luscious flavor. Ripens from the 4th to the lOth of July." —
Downing .

The list may be increased by adding the Elton^
Belle de Choisy, Flesh colored Bigarreaii and Honey
Heart.

so

CURRANTS.

Currant bushes are propagated by cuttings and by
dividing old roots ; the former method is preferable.
The cuttings should be taken off in the fall and kept
like scions during winter, or they should be cut ear-
ly in the spring and immediately inserted in the
ground. In two years they should be set in rows eight
feet apart and six feet apart in the row. They re-
quire an occasional pruning of the old wood. They
should be cultivated and manured. A deep soil suits
them best.

Red Dutch. — A kind much larger than the common
red, produces large clusters and is less acid.

White Dutck — Large yellowish white, transparent,
and less acid than the red. Perfectly hardy.

May's Victoria. — "A new variety from England. We have
had bunches over five inches long. The berries are very large,
bright red, excellent flavor, and hang long on the bush in perfec-
tion. Foliage thick, deep green, Of gre^t excellence." — Colt.

CRANBERRIES.

These are propagated by taking sods from natural
cranberry meadows and dividing them before setting
them out. They require a soil that is submerged at
least a small part of the year. They have been cul-
tivated on high lands with tolerable success by en-
riching them with peat and meadow muck.

GOOSEBERRIES.

These are propagated the same as currants are. —
They are more apt to suffer from heat and drought ;
they should therefore be planted the north side of
buildings or walls, in a deep moist soil. They are sub-
ject to mildew. To prevent this, prune liberally, en-
rich the ground with wood ashes, lime and salt, the
latter at the rate of two quarts per square rod. They
should be mulched deeply.

Croiun Boh. — Large; roundish-oval, hairy, red and of
first quality. Measures one and one half inches
through. Foreign.

81

Early Sulphur, — Fruit middle size and very early,
roundish, hairy; flavor first rate.

Farrow's Roaring Lion, — An immense berry and
hangs late. Fruit oblong and smooth, flavor excellent.

Foreign.

Houghton's Seedling. — ''Rather small; oval; skin thin; red-
dish brown; flesh very fine, tender, sweet and superior, particu-
larly for tie dessert. A prodigious grower and great bearer. We
set small layers, and the next year, all the shoots were covered
with fruit. Hiirdy; the only kind free from mildew. Habits like
Crown Bob." — CoU.

GRAPES.

Grapes are propagated by layers, cuttings and by
grafting old vines. The former method is preferable.
AYhere grafting is pursued it is necessary to defer it
until the vine is in full leaf as otherwise it suffers from
severe bleeding. The scions should be kept as other
scions are. The grape vme requires a liberal prun-
ing in Nov. or Dec. A shoot bears but one year, the
fruit being wholly on the previous years growth of
wood. Hence severe pruning induces fruitfuhies. —
The practice of picking off leaves at midsummer to
expose fruit to the sun is inj urious. The leaves are
required to perfect the sap that nourishes the fruit. —
Vines may be trained to walls, buildings, or trellises
either in the fan or horizontal manner and a portion
of the shoots cut back every year so that the vine
shall be constantly producing new and bearing wood.
The soil proper for the grape is a deep, rich, dry loam,
resting upon a dry gravelly subsoil. The crop is nei-
ther so sure or valuable when on wet grounds. Ani-
mal manure is good for growing vines, but ashes, coal
dust, Blacksmith's sinders, bone chips, and soap suds
are much better for those in bearing.

Grapes may be preserved for winter use, simply by
picking before fully ripe when they are free from dew
and packing them in ajar between layers of cotton
batting or fire dried sawdust.

For very warm situations, wo would recommend the
Isabella and Catawba ; but unless the cultivator has

82

such a situation, it is useless to attemj^t their culture
as they fixil to ripen. It is supposed that the Diai^a
%vill be more successful in cold regions and is there-
fore attracting a good deal of attention. Perhaps it
would be best for the cultivator to make his main de-
pendence upon some native grape of his own partic-
ular neighborhood, as these are usually much imprpv-
ed by cultivation, and generally ripen well.

Isabella. — "Bunches large, rather compact, shouldered. Ber-
ries large; oval; purplish, with blue bloom; skin thick; flesh ten-
der, with little pulp, juicy, sweet, and rich, with sliijht musky and
arommic flavor liipens in N. England the last of Sept., and in
Oct-"

Catawda. — ''Bunches medial; loose; shouldered ;berries large;
roundish or slightly oval; reddisli-purple; with a purple bloom;
thick skin; flesh a litle pulpy, hut juicy, sweet, with a rich, mus-
ky, aromatic flavor. Ripeiis two weeks later than the Isabella."

Diana. — "Fruit in bunch an 1 berry very much like its parent,
the C^tawbri, but wiih less color. Beiries round; juicy, rich,
sweet, wilh, musky aroma. Ripei.s about the time of Isabella.
.Hardy, vigorous, and productive."

Shurtleff's Seedling. — "Bunches largre; berries medial;
oval; skin thick, lilac; flesh of a sweet, rich flavor. Ripe early
in September." — Cole.

PEACHES.

These are propagated as directed upon page 62. —
Some cultivators plant stones of the best varieties
and of superior native seedlings and never bud. These
trees are undoubtedly more hardy than the budded
trees in our latitude, and many of them produce su-
perior peaches.

'•The peach will flourish in any friable soil, under good culture,
but the best soil is a light and rather dry loom. It succeeds well
with good, deep culture, and suitable manure, on light, sandy,
and gravelly soils; but in such cases it is necessary to guard
against severe drought by manures, inducing moisture, frequent
stiring of the soil, mulching, or by all these advantages. Any
soil suitable for indian corn is adapted to the peach. The subsoil
should be dry and porous."

"Elevated situations are best for the peach, especially in the
North, where the tree, but more especially the blossom buds, are
often killed, not so much, perhaps, by severe cold, as by sudden
changes from thawing and freezing, and the reverse. In this wa/

8;^

buds are often killed in Dec. and Jan., as may be seen by a black
speck in the centre of the bud, indicating its destruction."

"In most cases, the n(uth sides of hills Jind ridges are preferable
for peaches; there is less heat by day, and less fiost by night, as
the north wind, which prevails in the time of frost, prevents its se-
verity. Owina to the situation of some sections of the country,
and certain currents of air, this rule is not invariable." — Cole.

The peach requires a yearly prunmg as the fruit is
borne on the last years growth of wood. The best meth-
od is to shorten-in the branches by cutting off about half
of the length of the new wood, either in the fall or
early in the spring. Some prefer the month of Aug.
as it gives time for the wood to ripen before winter.

There is a disease called the Yellows very destruc-
tive to the peach. Premature ripening of the fruit
and the production of small wiry branches a few inch-
es in length are the symptoms by which it is recog-
nized. To restore an orchard affected with it^ exter-
minate, root and branch every tree that has the Yel-
lows; select seeds from healthy trees and from dis-
tricts where the disease has not appeared, and finally
keep the trees in a good condition by cultivation and
thorough shortening-in,

Coolebge's Favohite. — "Leaves with glohose glands. Fruit
large, roundish(the suture prominent at the iop only), but rather
the tirgest on one side. Skin clear smooth white, with a fine
crimson mottled cheek. Flesh very melting and juicy, with a rich,
sweet, and high flavor. Middle of August. Flowers small."

George the Fourth. — "Leaves large, with globose glands,
often obscure. Fruit large, round, deeply divided by a broad su-
ture, and one halt a little larger than the other. Skin pale, yel-
lowish white, finely dotted with bright red, and deepening into a
rich dark red chec k on one side. Flesh pale, marked with red at
the stone(whieh is small), melling, juicy, with a remarkably rich,
iuscfous flavor. Ripens the last of August. Flowers smiill."

Grosse Mignonne. — "Leaves with globose glands. Fruit large,
roundish, always somewhat depressed and marked wiili a hollow
suture at the top. Skin pale greenish yellow, mottled with red.
and haviug a purplish red cheek. Flesh yellowish white, marked
with red at the stone, meltmg, juicy, with a very rich, high, vi-
nous flavor. Stone small and very rough. Middle of August, be-
fore the Royal George. Flowers large."

Snow. — • 'Leaves with reniform glands. Fruit large, globular;
suture faintly marked except at t:..3 top. Skin thin, clear beautifuj
white, on all sides. Flesh, white to the stone, juicy, and melting

84

with a sweet, rich, and sprightly fTavor. Beginning of Septennber.
Flowers small."— jDoxi'/im^.

Crawford's Early Melocoton, CrawforcVs Early, Hill's
Lemon liareripe. Extremely large; roundish, point prominent;
plight suture; yellow, with a red cheek; flesh yellow, melting,
rather acid, pretty good. 1st to 15th of Sept. Hardy vigorous
and productive. Quality medial, but salable, from its size and
, beauty. Globose glands. Small flowers."

"Crawford's Late Melocoton, Crawford's Superb. Extreme-
ly large; roundish-oval, slight suture; yellow; nearly half cover-
ed with dark red; flesh deep yellow, red at the stone, melting,
juicy, with a very fine, rich, vinous flavor. Freestone. Last of
Sept. and 1st of Oct. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Glo-
bo.se glands. Small flowers. Splendid, beautiful, one of the fin-
est."— Cole.

PEARS.
Pears are propagated by grafting or budding the
more choice varieties upon seedHng stocks. The best
soil for the pear is a strong loam of good depth, rest-
ing on a dry subsoil. Moist situations are not favora-
ble to long life of tree or perfection of fruit. Care
should be exercised in transplanting, as the pear has
but few fibrous roots. Prune out only dead or defec-
tive limbs. The pear is affected with three disorders
similar in results, called, Frozen Sap Blight, Insect
Blight and Sun Blight. During the summer, the limbs
turn brown or black and the leaves wither. As a pre-
ventive, when the trees make wood late in the fall,
prune off the ends of the roots and the ends of the
shoots so that the wood will ripen. When the disease
appears, cut off immediately the affected part down
to perfectly healthy wood.

"Gathering AND keeping the fruit. — The pear is a pecbliar
fruit in one respect, which should be always kept in mind, viz: —
that most varietus are much finer in flavor if picked from the tree
and rij)ened in the house, than if allowed to become fully matured
on the tree. There are a few exceptions to this rule, but they are
very few. And, on the other hand, we know a great many varie-
ties which are only second or third rate, when ripened on the tree,
but possess the highest and richest flavor if gathered at the prop-
er time, and allowed to mature in the house. This proper season
is easily known, first, by the ripening of a few full grown, but
worm-eaten specimens, which fall soonest from the tree; and,

85

secondly, by tlie chiingc of color, and the readiness of the stalk
to part from its braiicli, on gently raising the fruit. The fruit
should then be gailiered — or so much of the crop as appears suffi-
ciently matured — and spread out on shelves in the fruit room or
upon the floor of the garret. Mere it will gradually assume its
full color, and become deliciously melting and luscious.

Winter dessert pears should be allowed to hang on the tree as
long as possible, until the niarhts become frosty. They should
then be wrapped separately in paper, packed in kegs^ barrels,
or small boxes, and pla(;ed in a cool, dry room, free from frost. —
Most kinds of the finer winter dessert pears, should be brought into
a warm apartment for a couple of weeks before their usual season
of maturity. Thev should be kept covered, to prevent shrivel-
ling. — Do ivning ,

•Dwarf Pears. — Dwarf Pears come into bearing
much sooner than standards and bear more abundant-
ly. Most of the market pears of Europe are raised
on Dwarfs. They are produced by root pruning small
standards, by grafting upon the Quince, Mountain
Ash, and our native Thorn Bush. Quince-bottomed
Dwarfs are much the most popular. When they are
very thrifty they require root pruning and heading-
in once in one or two years. Where the soil is sandy
or gravelly, clay may be used with advantage with
the compost that is placed about the tree. All pea ^s
do not succeed well on the Quince. Those marked
with a * in the following list are adapted to the
Quince.

Madeleine.* — "Fruit below the middle size, turbinate, with a
thickening on one side of the stalk, about two inches and three
quarters long, and two inches and one quarter in diameter. Eye
slightly hollowed. Stalk an inch long, slender, rather obliquely
inserted. Skin yellowish green, with a little light bloom upon it,
and a s'ight tinge of red when fully exposed to the sun. Flesh
white, melting, buttery, sweet, and highly flavored. Ripe the
latter part of July." — Lijidley.

Bloodgood. — "Fruit of medium size, turbinate, inclining to
obovate, thickening very abruptly into the stalk. Skin yellow,
sprinkled with russet dots, and net-work markings, giving it a ru8-
setty look on one side. Calyx strong, open, set almost without
depression. Stalk obliquely inserted, without depression, short,
dark brown, fleshy at its base. Flesh yellowish white, buttery,
and melting, with a rich, sugary, highly aromatic flavor. The
thin skin has a musky perfume. Core small. Ripe from the
26th of July to the lOth of August."

86

RosTiEZER. — '^Fruit of medium size, oblong-p3'nform. Siiir^
a (lull, yellowish-green, with a leddish-brovvn cheek, and whitish"
dots, light russet. Stalk very long, nearly two inches, irregular,
slender, set with very little depression. ( ajyx open, but little
sunk. Flesh juicy, a little coarse, but very melt'ng, sweet and
delicious, with a rich perfume. August and September."

Bartlett.* — "Fruit of large size, irregularly pyramidal. Skirt"
very thin and smooth, clear yellow, (with a soft blush on the sunny
side, in exposed specimens, )rHrely marked with faint russet. Stalk
one to one and a half inches long, btout, inserted in a shallow,
tiat cavity. Calyx open, set in a very shallow, obscurely plated
basin. Fle^h white, and exceedinirly fine-grained and buttery 3
it is full of iuice, sweet, with a highly perlumed, vinous flavor. —
Ripens from the last of August to the middle and last nf Sep-
tember." The most popular of pears in this region. — Downing.

Flemjsh Beauty.* — "Large; obovate: rooghish, pale yellow,
with marbling russet, brownish in the sun; stalk IJ inches longy
in a narrow cavity; calyx open, in a small basin; flesh yellowish-
white, little coarse, melting, juicy, with a saccharine, musky fla-
vor.' Sept. into Oct. Gather rather early and ripen in the house;
sometimes good nearly ripened on the tree. In an open situation
and warm soil, it comes up to a high state, and ranks among the
beSt;' Great grower, and bearer."

Louise Bonne of Jersey.'^ — "Large; pyriform; smooth, pale
green, brownish-red in the sun, numerous large gray dots; stalk
an inch long, curved, set obliquely, without depression; calyx
open, in a shallow basin; flesh greetiish-white, melting, very jui-
cy, of a rich and excellent flavor, as good as the Bartlett. Last
of Sept., and Oct. For hardiness, growth, production, uniform-
fairness, and excellence, this frurt is very promising.." — Cole.

Seckel. — ''Fruit small, (except in rich soils, )regularly formed,
obovate. Skin brownish-green at first, becoming dull yellowish-
brown, with a lively russet red cheek. Stalk half to three-fourths of
an inch long, slightly curved, and set in a trifling depression. Calyx
small, and placed in a basm scarcely at all sunk. Flesh whitish,
buttery, very juicy and melting, with a peculiarly rich, spicy flavor
and aronja. It ripens gradually in the house from the endof Au-
^nist to the l;isi of October.

Duchesse d'Angouleme.* — "Fruit very Targe, oblong-obovate,
with an uneven, somewhat knoby surface. Skin dirll greenish-
yellow, a good de;il streaked and spotted with russet. Stalk one
to two inches long, very stout, bent, deeply plated in an irregular
cavity. Calyx set in a somewhat knobby basin. Flesh white,
buttery, and very juicy, with a rich and very excellent flavor. Oc-
tober." On the quince, in warm situations, very fine. — Doirning.

WjnterNelis,* — "Medial; roundish-obovate; rough, grayish-
yellowish-green, with darker green, and patches of brownish-rus-
set; stem rather long, slim, in a narrow cavity; calyx open in a

87

s'hallow basin; fiosh whitish, fine, melting, very juicy, of a rich
saccharine, highly luscious Havor, and musky perfume.' Dec and
Jan Hardy, rrood ^rrrower and productive; and fruit uniformly
good, rhe best winter pear for those who prefer a sweet luscious
flavor." — Cok.

Those who would like a larger variety will find the
following excellent. Jar(/onelk% Bummer Frank Real;^
Dearborn's Seedling, Golden Beurre of Bilbodf', J^elle Lu-
crative, Buff urn, WJdte Doyenne^, Urhaniste^-, Van Mon's
Leon le Clerc, Vicar of WinkfieW, and KnigJifs Monarch.

PLUMS.

Plums are propagated by bndding choice varieties
upon seedling stocks of any free growing kinds.—
Ihey thrive best m a rich, deep, heavy loam. Ther^
are some knids that succeed well on a dry soil The^e
are marked with a * in the following Hst.
Fig. 17. The plum is often injured by a disease
called Knots or Black Warts. Fig. 17 rep-
resents a limb covered with it. "^ Writers
are not agreed as to its cause, but all rec-
ommend that it be cut off as soon as it ap-
pears, and the wound w-ashed with shellac
and alcohol or some other protective mixt-
ure.

Early Yellow GAGE,---Branches smooth, short-jointed, with
glossy leaves, and forming a large, spreading head. Fruit a little
above, medium size, oval, rather broadest towards the stalk Su.
iure a mere Ime. Skin golden yellow, a little clouded, and cov-
ered with a copious white bloom. Stalk an inch long, inserted in

Tnrttrh '"''^- ^^T"" ^^P ^^'^^^^' ^-^' -g-^ ^"d melt,
ing, though sometimes rather dry; parts freely from the stone. Ri-
pens rather early, about the first week in August --Bowning.
CxREEN GAGE---Branches smooth. Fruit middle sized, round

sLT^KV"^''°''u"/"'''^'^'"^'"g^''^"^^h« ^^talk to the apex.-
Stalk half an inch long, a little bent, and inserted in a small, fun-
nel-shaped cavity. Skin yellowish green, but when fully exposed
to the sun of a purplish color, marbled with russety muddy red
±lesh yellowish green, very melting, and separates partly from
the stone, leaving part of the pulp behind.' Juice' abundant,
saccharine, of the richest and most exquisite flavor. Ripe on
open stanaard the middle of August.^ '^Lindley. ^

1 he best flavored of all plums

Imperial Gage.* -Large medial; oval, distinct suture; pale

88

green, with a yellow tinge, and clowding of darker green, thick
white bloom; stem medial, in a moderate cavity; flesh greenish,
melting, very juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Mostly
freestone. 1 to 15 Sept. A vigorous grower and prodigious
bearer." — Cole.

Jefferson. — "Branches slightly downy, leaves oval, flat. Fruit
large, oval, slightly narrowed on one side, towards the stalk. —
Skin golden yellow, with a beautiful purplish-red cheek, and cov-
ered with a thin white bloom. Stalk an inch long, pretty stout,
very slightly inserted. Suture indistinct. Flesh deep orange,
(like that of an Apricot,) parts freely, and almost entirely from
the stone, which is long and pointed ; very rich, juicy, luscious and
high flavored. Hangs a lortnight on the tree." — Downing.

Coe's Golden Drop.* — "Fruit oval, of the largest size among
Plums, about two inches and a half long, and two inches in diam-
eter, deeply marked by the suture, pitted at the point, abruptly
tapering and hollowed out at the base for the reception of the
stalk. Stalk three quarters of an inch long, slender. Skin
greenish yellow, with numerous red spots of bright violet red next
the sun. Flesh greenish yellow, adhering firmly to the stone. —
Juice very sweet and delicious. Stone sharp pointed." October.
— Lindley. — Requires a warm situation to perfect it.

The Peach Plum, M'Laughlin% Royal Hative, Egg
Plum, Cruger's Scarlet*, Lawrence's Favorite, Schen-
ectady Catharine, Smith's Orleans, Columbia, Lom-
bard*, and Blue Imperatrice are all excellent plums.

QUINCES.

Quinces are propagated by seed, cuttings, or layers.
They will succeed in a deep, rich soil, either wet, or
dry. There are three kinds ; the Apple-shaped, the
Pear-shaped, and the Portugal. The former is the
most popular as it produces more abundantly and is
earlier than the others. The Portugal is very fine
flavored but a shy bearer.

EASPBEREIES.

This fruit requires a deep, moist soil. It is propa-
gated by suckers or offsets of old roots. The fruit is
borne on the canes of the last year's growth, which
die down after the crop is ripened. The old canes,
when dead, should be removed and the young ones
cultivated.

jRed Antzuerp. — This is a large, delicious, deep red
berry ; extremely hardy and prolific.

•89

White Antwerp. — This is a large and very excellent
fruit, of a dull yellow color. Canes rather tender for
cold situations.

Fastolf. — One of the best of raspberries. Fruit
dull red, juicy, melting, highly perfumed, and very
prolific.

Franconia. — A choice French variety. Fruit large,
dull red, melting, juicy, and perfumed. Very pro-
lific.

STRAWBERRIES.

This most delicious fruit should be found in every
garden. It propagates itself very rapidly by runners,
which take root and send up new plants. These- are
usually taken up in August and set in the permanent
bed. The ground should be spaded from one to
two feet deep and thoroughly manured. Set the
plants in rows two feet apart and from six to twelve
inches apart in the row. Keep free of weeds and be-
fore the fruit ripens, place clean straw or new mown
grass around the plants to preserve the berries clean.
Some lay out their ground in beds three feet wide,
leaving a space of three feet between the beds. Set
in each bed three rows of plants, 12 inches apart in
the rows. The third year, spade the space between
the beds, liberally enrich them, and permit the run-
ners to take root in them. The fourth spring from
setting, dig up the old beds and use them for walks.
To produce large and perfect crops of fruit, the beds
should have a yearly coating of manure and liberal
waterings from the time they blossom till the fruit is
nearly perfected. The blossoms of wild vines have
stamens and pistils, and are called hennorphrodite or
perfect blossoms ; those of some of the many seed-
lings now popular are staminate or male, and some jk'W-
tillate or female. The last two kinds do not bear well
when planted alone. The course pursued by success-
ful cultivators, is to plant a row of staminate, then
three or four rows of pistillate, alternating the one

90

with the other. Under this treatment enormous crops
of fruit are raised.

Large Early Scarlet. — Fruit large, scarletf juicy,
melting and richly perfumed ; prolific. Staminate.

Boston Pine. — Fruit large, deep red, juicy, and of
delicious flavor. Staminate.

Black Prince. — Fruit large, dark polished red ap- .
proaching black, flesh firm and of excellent flavor. —
Pistillate. Requires a staminate with it.

Hoveifs Seedling. — Fruit extremely large, deep scar-
let, flesh firm, with a rich delicious flavor. A prodig-
ious bearer. Pistillate. The most popular strawber-
ry in the U. S. Plant Early Scarlet or Boston Pine
with it.

Burr's New Pine. — Fruit large, crimson, sweet, rich
and aromatic. Pistillate.

111^ 'iTiiiiiis

Soil. — The plants cultivated in our gardens were
gathered from various countries, and therefore require
a diversity of soils. The kind adapted to most of them
is a deep friable loam, that pulverizes easily, in which
sand exists, but does not predominate. Some require
a soil composed almost entirely of savannah; others,
one the chief constituent of which is sand.

Laying out the grounds. — "Having obtained the proper soil, the
next step is to lay out the grounds, which must be governed in
some degree by their shape and location, but mainly by the taste
of the proprietor. Some are pleased with regular beds and bor-
ders— others can see no beuaty in straight lines, and form their
grounds into ovals, circles, and irregular figures of many forms.

Perhaps a lunoii ol ti»e Ivvo iiidcics is tiie truer taste; in either
Case they should he edged with neatness, and lor that purpose
box-wood, the vein.il ijis, thrift, grass, Sec., are used; where it
is desired to combine utility and orn;iinent, the strawberry may
be used with advantage That work performed, it then becomes
necessary to eniich the soil, or suj)ply the exhaustion of repeated
cropping; for this purpose, in the flower-garden, decomposed
manure and such as is least likely to contain the seeds of weeds, or
grasses, only should be used. It may be applied immediately
]>receding the spring digging, or, which is preferable, in the au-
tumn. At the proper time, in the spring, the ground should be
deeply du(j and thorou<rhly pulverized, preparatory to receiving
the seeds " — Flower Gardener.

Annuals mid Biennials. — These are, as a general thing,
sliowj plants, and, altlioiigh they require more atten-
tion than perennials, they well repay the care neces-
sary to their cultivation. Many of, the seeds are ex-
ceedingly small, therefore, should be carefully plant-
ed. Some require to be covered an inch deep, oth-
ers should be scattered upon the top of the ground
and kept moist until they sprout. Everj^ cultivator
should regard the size of the seed when determining
the depth to which they should be planted. Even
when planted by skillful hands many seeds fail to ger-
minate. The Double LarJcspur, all varieties of Poppies,
Gillia, Pinks, Evening Primrose, Coreopsis, Cupress Pine,
Marvel of Peru, Balsamines, and some other kinds, suc-
ceed best when sown just before the ground closes in
the fall. Other hardy annuals may be sown in the
open ground from April to June ; half hardy annu-
als in May, and tender annuals, the last of May or
first of June. Where the cultivator has the conven-
ience of hot beds, it is well to start many kinds in
them, and transplant to the open ground about the
first of June. The following plants are not usually
successfully transplanted, therefore should be sown
where they are to stand. Annual Sunflower, convol-
volus — Major and Minor, Candy Tuft, Dwarf Lychnis,
Dwarf Poppy, Nigella, Flos Adonis, Larkspur, Lobels,
Catchfly, Lupines, Lavatiera, Hawk Weed, Scarlet Pea,
Sweet-scented Pea, Tangier Pea, Yenus' Looking Glass,
A^'enus' Navel Wort.

D2

Annuals perfect their, flowers and seed in the fall
from the seed sown in the spring, then die; Biennials
blossom the second year after sowing, and then die or
decline ; and Perennial plants bloom year after year,
and are propagated either by seed or dividing roots.
The following list of Annuals and Biennials will pro-
duce a fine show of flowers most of the season, ha,
stands for hardy annual ; hha, half hardy annuals ;
ta, tender annuals ; hb, hardy biennials, &c.

ha, Asters, Chinese and German, many varieties, beautiful.

ta, Balsams, double and single, various colors, superb.

hb, Canterbury Bells, blue and white, fine.

ha, Candytuft, various colors.

ha. Coreopsis, many kinds, some perennial.

ha, Calchfly, white and large clustered.

ha, Chrysanthemum, \vhile and yellow, showy.

ta, Clarkia, divers colors, very pretty.

ta, Coxcomb, several colors, bears cold better than too hot sun.

ha. Erysimum, yellow.

ha. Eternal flower, divers colors, fine for drying.

ha, Eschscholtzia, many kinds.

ha, Forget-me not, blue.

hb. Foxglove, white, red and yellow.

ha, Flos Adonis, scarlet.

ha, Gili'i, many colors.

ha, Hawkweed, golden, purple and silvery.

ha. Hibiscus, African.

hb, Honesty, curious.

ha, Larkspur, various kinds, very fine.

ha, Love-lies-bleeding, red.

ha, Lupins, mixed, fine.

hha, Marigolds, mixed, very showy.

ha, Marvel of Peru, mixed.

ha. Mignonette, odorous, perfumes the garden or house.

ha. Morning Glory, a climbing and showy plant,

ha* Nasturtiums, free bloomers, showy, climbers.

ha or p, Pansies, mixed, one of the most choice of florists' floM^ers.

ha, Sweet Peas, mixed, delicate flowers, climbers.

ha. Poppies, many varieties, showy.

ha, Phlox, Drummond's, 20 var., elegant..

hha, Portulaca, many colors, fine.

ha, Petunia, divers colors, beautiful, should be in every garden.

hhb, Stocks, Queen and Brompton, splendid.

ha. Verbenas, 40 var., elegant, no finer flowers.

a, Zinnia.

Perennials.— These afford a fine display of flowers from spring

93

till full. They are mostly pi'opfigated by layering or dividing old

roots. Some few are rairfejd from slips.

lip, Aconitum, very hardy and showy, but poisonous.

hp, Bee Larkspur.

hp, Cardinal Flower.

bp, Carnations, beautiful winter pot-flowers, propagated by lay-
ers or seed.

hlrp, Chrysanthemum, Indian, should be removed to the house in
pots before frosts. •'#

hp, Campanula pyr.unidalis, produces pyramidal clusters.

hp, Picoiee, superb pot-flower, by seed or layers.

hp. Columbine, many colors, fine. '*

hp. Gentians.

hp, Hollyhocks, double and single, divers colors, superb.

hp, London Pride, gorgaous.

hp, Monkey flower, requires a moist sitution.

hp. Pea, Everlasting, requires support.

hp, Phlox, various colored, elegant and showy.

hp, Pinks, China, Clove, and i'heusant's-eye, fragrant, fine.

hp, Primrose, beautiful for border or pot.

hp, Sweet William, very fragrant.

hp. Valerian, showy border flowers.

hp, Wall Flower, brilliant.

Bulbous Roots. — These are general favorites. The
beauty of theu' flowers and their agreeable odor make
them very popular. The following directions for their
culture w6 copy from Mr. Hovey's Catalogue.

In the Open Ground. — "The proper season for planting all the
hardy kinds is during the months of October and November; in
favorable seasons they may be planted later; but they will flower
stronger if put into the ground not later than the middle of No-
vember. They are of the easiest cultivation, and will grow and
flower well in any tolerable good garden soil, but flourish best in
a light soil, made rich with thoroughly decomposed manure. Let
the ground be dug or trenched a good spade deep, and made fine
and light — if it is intended to plant the roots in beds, make them
about four feet wide, and of any convenient length, and raise them
two or three inches above the surrounding paths. Hyacinths,
'J'ulips, Lilies, Crown Imperials, Double Narcissus, and Jonquils,
should be planted about four inches deep; Crocusses, Snowdrops,
Frilillarias and Sj)anish Iris, two inches; English Iris and Poly-
anthos Narcissus, six inches, and from six to eight mches apart,
each way, when grown in beds. When planted in borders, or on
the side^of walks, they look best in clumps or patches, each
clump to contain enough roots, rather thickly planted, to produce,
when in bloom, a mass of flowers. Hyacinths and Tulips of
different colors produce a fine effect, when planted in this manner,

94

which is preferable to scattering them over the border, afid afsar
renders it more convenient to protect bulbous roots from disturb-
ance in digging and cultivating the ground.

In Pots. — Hyacinths, Double Roman and Polyanthus Narcis-
sus, Early Tulips, Jonquils, and Crocusses, are all proper for
cultivation in pots, and make a beautiful display in the parloar or
green-house, during the winter.

Pots of five, six or more inches in diameter, according to the num-
ber of roots to be grown in each, should be filled with rich light
soil, and the bulbs planted very shallow, just covering them with
the soil; give a moderate sprinkling of water, to settle the soil
about them, and place the pots in any convenient spot, protected
from the sun and wind, until the roots commence growing, wh€n
they should be exposed to the sun and light as much as possible.
When kept in parlours or rooms where the air is generally very
dry, they require water often, and the best way is to set the pots
in saucers, with water daily. A solution of guano water, made by
dissolving a tea-cup full of guano in four gallons of water, and
applied once or twice a week, on the surfaee of the soil, will give
them a more vigorous growth, and also add to the brilliancy of
their col©rs.

In Glasses. — Hyacinths and Polyanthos Narcissus tiower freely
in glasses; the single varieties ot the Hyacinth being generally
preferred for this mode of cnlture.

Remove any offsets that may be attached to the bulbs, and af-
ter placing them in the glasses, fill up with clear rain water, just
to the bottom of the bulbs, then set them in a dark room or closet
until the roots have grown two inches, when they may be exposed
to the full light, and any waste of water by evaporation must be
regulaily supplied. The water should l)€ renewed every "five or
BIX daya, always taking care whmi fresh water is ssipplied, that it
is of a milk warm temperature. Should any green matter «olkci
on the roots, draw them out of the glasses and rinse them care-
fully in clean water. '^

We think that the following will afford ^atisftictoiy
flowers* Those who desire a larger collection are re-
ferred to the catalogues of respectable florists.
HYACINTHS.

A la Mode, double light blue, dtrk eye.

Anna Maria, double whit©, purple eye.

Lord Koel, double lilac blue.

Mars, single crimson.

j^ini/ms,' single light blue, extra.

Grootvorst, double rose^ large and Hne.

^Rppelius, sin^He crimson, very fine. %

Prime cf Waterloo, d nuhie white, superb„

Louis d'Or, dojhle yellow, red eye.

jyim/odj single light blue, extra.

n

TULIPS.

Tulips are divided into Bkarres, Byhhemem^ Hoses
and JSelfs. Bizarres have yellow grounds, broken or
variegated with Various shades from red to black ; By-
bloemens have white grounds with various shades of
purple and violet ; Rose Tulips have white grounds
variegated with rose and cherry color ; Selfs are of
one color. Those having feather edges are called
Parrot Tulips.

Early Tulips. — Bride of Harlem, Canary Bird, Isabella, Clar-
amoivd, Ma Favorite, Yellow Rose and Rose Florentine.

BiZARREs. — Cato, Trafalgar, Prince of Orange, Duke of Wel-
lington, Regent, and Liberty.

Bybloemrns. — Cleopatra, Ely's Victoria, Incomparable, Prince
of Tulips, Washington, Queen of May.

Rose. — Heroine, Hebe, Vesta, Walworth, Cameux, Cerise, and
Diana.

POLYANTHOS NARCISSUS.

Grand Monarch, white and citron.

Soleil d'Or, yellew and orange.

Double Roman, double cnps.

Grand Prima, white and citron.

DOUBLE AND SINGLE NARCISSUS.
Double White, Orange Phanix, Poets, Incomparable, Trumpet
Major, CampernelVs.

JONQUILS.

Sweet Scented and Single.

IRIS,

English, Spanish, and Susiana.

CROCUS.

Golden Yellow, Large White, and Blue, Prince Albert, and

Queen Victoria.

CROWN IMPERIALS.
Red, and Yelloit, single and double.
LILIES.
Chalcedom^cum, scarlet.
Lancifolium album, white.
— punctatum, pink spotted.

Martagon album, white.
Tigrinum, tiger spotted.
Testaceum, buff spotted.
Umbellatum, orange.
Blue Japan Day Lily .
White Japan, splendid.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Ranunculus, Anemonies, Fritillarias, Gladiolus, Colchicums,
^ci)mt€$, and Arums,

— rubrum, crimson spotted.
Bright Yellow Day Lily,

96

Tuberous Roots. — These are propagated by dividing
the roots, which are fleshy and multiply very fast. —
They are usually dug late in the fall and kept iii dry
sand in a cool, dry cellar during the winter. Some re-
main in the ground over winter. They should have
a rich mellow soil.

Jlsclepias Tn6ero.sa— produces orange flowers in Au«:. and Sept.

Madeira Vine — grows thirty feet, has white, sweet scented
flowers.

HermerQcqllis Flava — has yellow lily-like flowers,
** Fulva — buff flowers.

Pceonia — has double flowers of various colors. They stand out
during winter. We think the following will prove satisfactory. —
Superb double White, Double Rose, Double Red, Sweet Scented,
Chinese double purple crimson, Double Blush, Double Lilac,
Double dark Crimson.

DAHLIA.

*'From the middle o,f May to the middle of June, is the time to
plant the Dahlia in this latitude. It will grow on almost any kind
of soil, but sandy loam suits it best: a single tuber with one sprout,
is enough to make a good plant. Dig a hole of the size of. the
tuber, and four inches deep — lay it in flat, and cover it. up; , do
not let more than one shoot arise from it, and displace all laterals
the first twelve inches from the ground, above that let it branch.
Drive a stick two or three inches in diain^'ter, and of a length
suitable to the growth of the plant, into the ground, close 16 tlie
side of each plant. The plant is to be lied to the stick as it ad-
vances in growth; this will prevent its being blown down and de-
stroyed by high winds. If ihe head gets crowded, cut out some of
its^branches. September is the month in which the Dahlia shows
its pride. As soon as the frost has killed down the top, cut ofl'the
stem six. inches from its base, and dig up the root carefully; after
drying two days in the sun, pack it in a box with dry earth, and
place it in a cool, airy part ol the cellar." • ' y

In the follow^ing spring during the month of April,
plant the tubers in a hot bed and after thoy have sprout-
ed separate them from the old stem and when it be-
comes warm,, set them into their permanent places,—
If there is not a hot bed neay. start them in a .box in
a warm kitchen. We oiler tJio following list.

Desdemona, primrose.
Mrs, Jones, dove color.
Admiral, lilac, fine form.
FA Dorado, pale yellow, fine.
Fearless, lilac extra fine.

117

JLni. Mrs. Aahleij, waxy peach, tipped and decked witli rose.

JV/7 Drspcrnndum, vivid scarlet.

Jeancfte, carmine tipped witli white.

MisK Wcijland, amber edged wiih scarlet and tipped wliite.

Duke of Cambvid^c, silvery lilac.

BeauUj of Fkiladc/pliia, yellow tipped with rose.

Beaulij of England, white edged with crimson.

FJiifadAphia, white spotted with purple.

Ralnbnm, yellow edged with purple.

Miss Percivaf pure white.

Argo, pure yellow.

Otliello, dark maroon.

Scarlet Gem, scarlet.

ROSES.

"Plant out all everbloominor roses in spring; those tliat bloom
once a year should be pl.inted out in fall. Dig out large holes
eighteen inches deep, and mix the earth with one third oi' its size
of very short manure, or black iRould from the woods. Fill up
the holes to nine inches deep, plac^ the plants in them in a way
that all their roots will lay out in their natural positions; fdl up
the holes and tramp the earth firm about their roots."

"A rose left to nature would-soon become a confusion of shoots
— the flowers would be few, small, and single. The finest flowers
are produces on young shoots, of the previous year's growth. So
all shoots over two years old, should be cut out every spring. If
the plant is a bush, prune it in a neat and symmetrical manner;
if it covers a fence, pillar, arbour. Sec, train up the young shoots
where the old ones were: but do not cross one shoot over another.
The shoots on a fence or building should be four inches apart."

"Late in the fall, get a strong stick as long as the height of the
rose, drive it tirraly in close to its side, tie up all th'3 branches of
the rose around it; then cover it with long straw, beginning at
the bottom; place the straw in a standing manner around it, and
tie neatly up with twine. If more than one length of straw is
needed, let the upper tiers lap over the lower — so as to carry ofl'
the rains and melting snows."

"The v/inter covering should never be removed until the frost
is entirely out of the ground, and not until after March. A wet
or cloudy day should be taken for the removal. The frosts get
through the straw and into the shoots of the rose, and it takes as
long to draw it out of them as out of the ground. If they were
uncovered while the frost was in the shoots, they would likely
all die."

Growing Roses in Pols. — "Get sods three inches thick from an
old pasture, lay it in a heap, and turn it over two or three times
in a year, breaking it fine every time it is turned over. Three
parts of this, one part of very short well-rotted manure, and one
part of sharp sand, mixed well together, are an excellent com-

t)8

post for ros«s. The ingredients should be mixed some time be-
fore using, so that they may become incorporated. If the soil
from which the sod is taken be of a sandy nature, no sand will be
needed in the compost; if it be a stiff clay, more sand will be
needed. B'ack mould from the woods is better than manure to
mix in the compost. A quart of fresh slacked lime, or charcoal
dust, mixed in a bushel or the compost, serves to kill worms and
other insects which may be in ii. They should not get too much
heat, nor too much water in winter, but give them as much light
as possible."

Climbing Roses. Michigan, flowers clustered.

Queen of the Prairies^ magnificent flowers in
, clusters.

Ballimore Belle, rose colored.
Perpetual Pink, fine.
Boursalt'Roses. Amadis crimson.

Blush, pale flesh colored.
Elegans purple striped.
Ayrshire Roses. Sjilendcns, creamy, white.
Noistte Roses. Bengal Lee, creamy white or blush.

Conque de Venus, creamy vvhite with dark centre.
Cloth of Gold, deep sulphur yellow, fragraint.
Ftllenberg, bright crimson.
Lutea, pale yellow, double flowers.
Ophire, orange yellow tinged with red.
Washington, pure white.
Hybrid Roses, Brennus, scarlet and large.
Coup de Hebe, delicate pink.
Duke of Devonshire, rosy lilac striped with white.
George the IV, crimson, beautiful and large.
Abbe Berlese, crimson spotted with violet.
Camaieu, delicate rose with lilac stripes,
^awr/ewr, bright rose color, spotted and striped

with white.
Reine des Beiges, lilac.
Ij'Isle de Bourbon Roses. Anna Beluze, waxy blush.

Henry Clay^ carmine.
Duval, scarlet crimson.
Mad. Desprez, dark rose.
Paul Joseph, brilliant crimson.
Tea Roses. Clara Sylvain, pure white.
Magnolia, yellowish white.

Eliza Sauvage, pale yellow. <%

Elvira, creamy, blush, tinted with rose
Flavescens, pale straw color, beautiful.
Floralie, blush, rare.
Adorata, fine blush.
Princess Marie, flesh color.

91)

Moss Roses, hath White, very mossy.

Luxembourg, deep crimson.

Crested, mossy and fine.

Pnncess Royal, darkest crimson, fine,

ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

These are usually propagated by cuttings, layersy
muckers, and hy budding and grafting. A full descrip-
tion may be found in the fruit department of this work.
They need an occasional pruning of dead and strag-
ling limbs. Some are half hardy and require protec-
tion; see roses.

Dwarf double- flowering Almond, a very beautiful shrub, about
three feet high; blooms profusely. •

Azalea, a magnificent shrub, flowers of all shades from white
to brilliant flame.

Pyrus Japonica^ blossoms very early, whilst

'•Winter lingers in the lap of Spring."

Siycei scented sh^ib, has fragrant, strawberry-scented flowers.

FringTr^e, has white flowers which hang like a fring; of great
beauty.

Southernwood, fragrant foliage.

Deutzia Scabra, pr^uces white flowers^^ resembliTig the Mock
Orange.

Althea, many colors, double and single, all fine.

Golden Chain produces long clusters of yellow flowers.

Jupan Globe Flo^cer, a profuse bloomer; hardy.

Missouri Currant, hardy and flowers abundantly. ,

Guelder Rose, or Snowball, a showy shrub, produceB largf
balls ot .snow-white flowers in May.

Syringa, or Mock Orange, produces highly perfumed flowers.

Snowberry, has pink flowers in .spring and white berries in fall,

'Smoke Tree, looks like a light cloud of smoke, when in bloom.

Lilac, fine blooiBer, hardy and fragrant. It has white antii
purple flowers.

Rkododendron, i« of the Laurel tribe and very beautiful; re-
quires moist soil and shade.

PARLOR PLANTS.

The soil proper for pot plants, is composed of pBat^
leaf mould, sancl and well rotted manure. They should
be mixed sometime before wanted. Powdered char-
coal added gives darker and more brilliant colors to
flowers. The soil in the pot should be kept moist, but
not saturated. When plants are in a dormant state

100

mucli water is injurious. Wlic3ii growing plants arc
watered, enough should be given to moisten the whole
soil in the pots. The top soil should he frequently
stirred, and occasionally, waterings with a guano solu-
tion are beneficial. Plants should have as much air as
can be given conveniently. Kill insects, by washing
with soap suds, then syringe the plants with pure wa-
ter. Keep both plants and pots clean. Plants which
cannot support themselves should have sticks inserted
close to their side and be tied to them.

Mutilon, is increased by cuttings, grows in -a rich loomy soil.
It lias white or buff grounds striped with rose or crimson.

Cadis, requires considerable heat and a sandy soil. Flowers
pink, scarlet and purple. The night blooming Cerciis is much
celebrated.

Calla, or Ethiopian Lily has a large white flower of great beau-
ty. It requii-es a peat soil and a great amount of water when
irrowing. In fact it D^ay stand in water. Propagated by offsets.

Carnations and Picotees, are propagated by cuttings, layers and
seed. They require a rich soil and frequent waterings while blos-
soming. Colors various; flowers superb.

Fuclibia, or Ladies' Eardrop, is propagated by cuttings. It has
pendant flowers of great beauty. Colors, scarlet, crimson, white,
and red and white.

Geraniums are great favorites. They require three parts peat,
one part sand, one of manure. The Harrisonii, Mrs. Peck, Len-
oxii, Mrs, Clay and President are large flowered and splendidly
colored.

Hijdrans^ea hortcnsis, is a v/ell known plant, of pink color which
changes to blue when iron cinders are added to the soil. It should
be kept in the shade and have an abundance of water.

Oleander, an evergreen shrub, has fine flowers. The plant is
troubled with a white scaly insect. To remove it, wash with soap
suds then shower the plant with pure water.

Ptiunias, are fine parlor flowers, and succeed well if planted in
the open ground when the weather becomes warm. The purple,
the white and the pink penciled and with a dark throat, are admir-
ed varieties. Propagated by cuttings and seed.

Roses, Tea and Moss, succeed well in pot culture. Every par-
lor should have a variety.

Stocks, Queens and Hrompton, furnish a beautifiil display. —
Propagated by secdj require a rich friable loam.

Verbenas, require rich soil and sticks to support them. There
are 40 varieties, and owing to their beauty and hardiness they are
everywhere popular. Propagated by seed and cuttings.

i

INDEX.

Kitchen Gardener.
Crops, Rotation of - -
Cultivators, Hand
Dibble,
Drill-rakes!,
Engines, Gaiden
Garden, Situation of
Glasses, Hand
Hot Reds, Frame and ^Sash

" Management of

'" German

TT W

Hoes, _ - - ,

Manures,

Observations, Preliminary -

Plowing, Subsoil

Double
Propagation in general
Plants, Early
Rakes, Garden
Spades and Shovels,
Soil, - _ -

'* Preparation of
Shields, Vine
Seed, to save

** Vitality of

" To start quick.
Tools and Tool House,
Trowel, Garden
Tools, Miscellaneous .
Trenching,
Transplanting,
Vermin, Destruction of
Water-Carrier,
Whale Oil Soap,
Wheelbarrow,

i'co'eiables.

:25

Artichoke, Jerlisalem

^S

!4

Asparagus,

28

13

Balm,

31

. 11

Bean, - - -

31

U

Beet,

33

5

Cabbage,

33

12

Carrot, - - -

34

11

Cauliflower,

34

22

Celery,

35

■ 12

Chive,

36

- 14

Corn, - - >

36

7

Cress, - -

37

. 5

Cucumber,

37

15

Egg-Plant,

38

16

Endive,

39

17

Fennel,

39

21.

Horse Radish,

39

• 14

Leek, - - -

40

13

Lettuce,

40

6

Majoram,

40

14

Melon,

41

13

Mint,

42

19

Mustard,

42

21

Nasturtium,

42

19

Onion, - - _

42

10

'' Potato

43

13

'' Tree

43

14
16
24

Parsley,
Parsnip,
Pea,

44
44
44

- 26
14

Pepper,
Potato,

45
45

27

" Sweet

46

13

Radish,

47

102

Rhubarb, •

47

f Fruits.

Sage,

48

Apples, -

63

Salsify,

49

Astracham, Red

73

Savory, - _ .

49

Baldwin,

75

Sea-Kale,

49

Bough, Sweet

74

Shallot,

50

Gravenstein,

74

Spinach or Spinage,

50

Harvest, Early

73

Squash,

50

Jowett's E.ed,

74

Thyme,

50

Mother, - _ _

75

Tomato,

50

Northern Spy,

76

Turnip,

52

Pippin, Fall

75

Wormwood,

53

Porter,

74

Fi'uit Gardener. ',•

Rhode Island Greeninor, -

76

Budding,

58

Roxbnry Russet, .

76

" American Shield, -

59

Strawberry, Early

74

Cuttings, Propagation by -

CO

Swee'tiiie, Ladies'

76

Grafting and BuddinjT,

5()

Apples, List of - -

77

Grafting Wax and Clay, -

56

Apricots,

77

Grafting, Cleft

57

" Breda,

77

'' Stock scarfed

57

" Moorpark,

77

" Splice

57

*' Roman.

78

*' Saddle

58

Blackberries,

78

Insects,

6S

Cherries,

78

" Apple Tree Borer -

69

Early White Heart

78

" Apple Worm or Cod-

" Mayduke,

78

ling Moth,

69

" *B!ack Tartarean, -

79

" Bark Louse,

70

Black Heart,

79

*' Canker Worm,

70

Black Eagle,

79

*' Curculio,

70

" Downer's late Red,

79

" Caterpillers,

72

Currants,

80

*' Peach Tree Borer, -

72

List of

SO

" Slugs, - -

72

Cranberries,

80

Labels,

64

'Gooseberries,

80

Layers, Propagation by -

61

'* Crown Bob,

80

New Varieties, production o

f54

" Early Sulphur, -

81

Dr. Van Mons' Theory, -

54

" Farrow's Roaring

Mr. Knight's Theory, "

55

Lion,

81

Pruning,

65

Houghton's Seed-

Suckers,

61

ling,

81

Stocks for grafting,

61

Grapes,

81

Training,

65

" Isabella,

82

" Horizontal

66

•' Catawba,

82

'' Fan

66

" Diana,

82

" Quenouille

67

', Shurtleff's Seedling, -

82

" Pyramidal

67

Peaches,

82

Trees, Taking up

62

" Coolidge's Favorite

,83

" To protect from Mice,

68

George IV,

83

Transplanting,

m

" Grosse Mignonnc,

83

To induce early bearing, -

67

Snow,

S3

INDEX. ^ 103

" Crawford's Early,

84

" List of - - 92

Late, -

84

Bulbous Roots, - - 93

Pears,

84

To cultivate in open ground, 93

" Gathering of

84

in Pots, - 94

'* Dwarf,

85

in Glasses, - 94

" Madeline,

85

Crocus, - - 95

'' Bloodgood,

85

Crown Imperial, - - 95

" Rostiezer,

86

Dahlia, - - - g^j

" Bartlett,

86

" List of - - 96

** Flemish Beauty,

86

Hyacinths, - - 94

•* Louise Bonne de Jersey ,86

Iris, - - - 95

" SecUeJ,

86

Jonquils, - - - 95

*' Duchesse d'Angoulen:

e88

Lilies, - - - 95

'* Winter Nelis,

86

Miscellaneous Bulbs, - 95

Pears, List of - -

87

Narcissus, double and single, 95

Plums, - - -

87

" Polyanthos, - 95

*' Black Warts on

87

Parlor Plants, - - 99

" Early Yellow Gage, ■

. 87

List of - 100

*♦ Green Gage,

87

Roses, - - - 97

*' Imperial Gage,

87

*' Growing in pots, - 97

" Jefferson,

88

*' List of - - 98

'' Coe's Golden Drop, -

88

Shrubs Ornamental - 99

Plums, List of - -

88

'' List of - - 99

Quinces, - - -

88

Soil, - - - 90

Raspbeiries,

88

Tuberous Roots, - - 96

'Strawberries,

89

List of - - 96

List of

90

Tulips, - . - ^5

Floral Gardener.

Annuals and Biennials,

91