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AND

IMPROVED SYSTEM

OF

EDUCATING THE HORSE.

BY CHAS. LARABEE.

TREATISE ON SHOEING,

WITH NEW AND VALUABLE

RECIPES FOR DISEASES OF HORSES,

TOGETHER WITH THE

RULES OF THE UNION COURSE.

TOWANDA, PA.:
GOODENOUGH & CLAUSON, JOB PRINTERS.
1872. \

Pa Na
IMPROVED SYSTEM

OF

EDUCATING THE HORSE,

BY CHAS. ARABEE
TREATISE ON SHOEING,

RECIPES FOR DISEASES OF HORSES,

TOGETHER WITH THE

." Vi
>.

RULES OF THE UNION ‘ec »
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4No. 3 GES 7

TOWANDA, PA.:
GOODENOUGH & CLAUSON, JOB PRINTERS.
1872.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872,
By CHAS. LARABEE,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Ara

INTRODUCTION.

Our object in publishing this work is to give the
general management of the horse in all things relating
to the training and driving to which the horse is made
lable; we say made lable because two-thirds of all
bad habits are brought on by our own mismanage-
ment. There never was a naturally ill-disposed horse
foaled. All bad horses are made so by bad treatment.
Baulky drivers make baulky horses. We have always
succeeded in making all horses in our hands kind and
gentle for all uses.

We feel assured in saying that all persons who
come in possession of this work, and live up to its
directions, will be equally successful. There is in this
book all that is needed for the breaking of any kind
of a horse, and we have used no process not explained
here.

The principle on which we rest is kindness. We
wish first to give the horse to understand that we are
his friend, and to gain his affections. This method
does not affect the spirit of the horse, but makes him
your obedient slave at once. It causes him to like you,
and gives him confidence when with you, because he
feels that you are his friend, and by caressing him
and always treating him kindly the bond of affection
is made strong.

A horse broken on our system will be kind and
gentle to every one who is so to him. The only way
to spoil a horse is to abuse and ill treat him. The
blood horse is as sensitive as a well-bred gentleman.
He don’t wish to be cursed and bawled at. Always
speak in a low, kind tone,—it has a soothing effect.

4 THE HORSE TAMER.

Ladies are the most successful in breaking on this
principle, for after gaining the confidence of the horse
they are more kind, and increase the affection more
than men. It is thus by love, not fear, that we gain
this practical control over the horse.

In conclusion I would say our system enables a boy
fifteen or sixteen years of age to handle and break to
harness the wildest animal.

Strength and courage are not essential, but patience,
perseverance, and kindness are required. The man
who is void of patience cannot control and win the
confidence of his horse or friend.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF MANAGING
HORSES.

The great strength and susceptibility of the horse
makes his control and successful management very
greatly dependent upon the skill and prudence brought
to bear in his education. This requires a knowledge
of his peculiarities of nature, and of the effects pro-
duced upon him by different causes and modes of
treatment, with the art of adapting means to the end
of mastering and controlling his resistance into such
limits of character as we desire.

To properly understand the horse we must view
him in his relations to man, mentally. He has an un-
derstanding, not it is true like that of man, still he is
animated by a spiritual principle by which he is made
to feel and see, though with less clearness. It is how-
ever analagous to that of man. Man has an under-
standing, which the horse has not, and he has a
rational and moral nature, but the horse has no sense
of understanding which man does not possess. With
less strength physically, but higher order of under-
standing, it must be seen that our supremacy is not
meant to be one of physical power only, as of brute
over brute, but the domination of mind. Hence we
are thrown back upon aud made dependent for our
mastery upon the skill and resources of our ability to
see and understand the causes of resistance and coun-
feract them by prudence and indirect measures.

Now it is seen that the principles of educating and
soverning the horse are essentially the same as those
necessary in the education and government of man,
with the difference of being necessary to adapt the

6 THE HORSE TAMER.

efforts more directly to the limited understanding and
control of the greater physical resistance of the horse.
A horse understands only from experience, and con-
sequently his sensibilities and impressions are more
acute when once aroused to an impression of danger,
and his resistance more positive and determined upon
learning his ability to resist control. Therefore, three
considerations must govern the success of the effort.

First. The prudence and skill brought to bear in
addressing and convincing intelligence of the ani-
mal, and of guarding against the excitements and
instincts of resistance induced by fear.

Seconp. The ability to restrain resistance and en-
force submission.

Tuirp. The character of the resistance and the will
and endurance of the animal to resist control.

The first consideration imples winning the confi-
dence and promoting and encouraging obedience by
patient, gentle treatment.

it is this tact of the adroit encouragement of flattery
that creates and maintains the sympathies of the ani-
mal to submit willingly and patiently to the restraints
and severities of control, the heart rebounds and stills
the energies to the most willing obedience when
rewarded and flattered with kindness, when a sense of
power is recognized and felt to be absolute. Now as
far as a sense of inherent power and the ability to
inflict pain, the horse recognizes man in the position
of a master, and to the degree that his power is soft-
ened by gentleness and affegtion—there is a co-opera-
tive desire to obey and submit to his control. To be
successful in the exercise of this advantage there must
be patience, gentleness, and honesty of effort and
purpose. ‘To the degree that where there is want of
this there is not only failure to restrain and overcome
the excitement of fear, but there is want of gentlenss
and obedience characterizing the nature of the horse.

7

THE HORSE TAMER. 7

To enforce the obedience and successful control of
the horse implies a knowledge of such principles and
methods of management as will give us power to do
it. But as resistance may be general or local, or both,
and varied in character and degree from the most
vicious and determined resistance to that of some
simple habit, the efforts must not only be adapted to
the degree and character of the resistance, but the
control must be of the most positive and convincing

character.
MAN'S SUPERIORITY.

Man is superior to the horse because of his intelli-
gence, by which he can devise and adopt measures to
overcome the strength of the horse or employ it
against itself. The knowledge of training and manag-
ing horses les in this mental superiority. Man
becomes superior to the ignorant horse only so far as
he can manage and impress him with a sense of un-
doubted superiority. Recognizing the need of con-
forming to the laws of his nature so as not to excite
his resistance—do not let him comprehend it possible
to resist control. Seek in the second place to discon-
cert and control him under all circumstances as to
impress him most forcibly with man’s power and
absolute supremacy.

THE NECESSITY OF PROPER MANAGEMENT
OF HORSES.

Prudence in conforming to the laws of the horse’s
nature and winning his confidence by kindness, though
indispensable, is only as the caution which guards
against the force of a momentum. There is no ability
to control, and there would be no need of subduing
the horse by force had there been no law of his nature
violated. Since effect must be the result of causes,
every consequence requiring the genius of man to
combat and control must be the result of his own

8 THE HORSE TAMER.

imprudence or ignorance. Harshness and the neg-
lect of this necessary attention, while mainly the
cause of mischief, lead us to infer that the absence
of such causes, with corresponding regards for the
laws of kindness, is sufficient to win the bad horse
to a forgetfulness of his power of resistance. The
course of reasoning that teaches him man’s inability
to enforce absolute and unconditional submission
under all circumstances of resistance, in fact to dis-
concert and beat him on his ground with the apparent
ease and certainty of positive ability without resorting
to harsh means or inflicting pain. For as the aim
of the physician is to subdue the force and effect
of the disease by using remedies the least aggravat-
ing in their action on the system, so the aim of

fhe horseman should be in enforcing the submis- .

sion of the horse to do it as nearly as possible on a
moral basis.

PRINCIPLES OF THOROUGH TRAINING OF
BAD HORSES.

The horse’s confidence and rebellion being usually
the result of long standing in successful resistance, his
subjugation must be made convincing by repeated
proofs of being overmatched, and that resistance is
useless. For since his willfulness and rebellion 1s
based upon the limited reasoning of his experience.
that unconditional submission is the only alternative,
and this you cannot prove to the understanding of
the horse without repeating your lessons until he
submits unconditionally.

Man has the right of control, restraint, correction,
and even destruction of life, but we must bear the
consequences of those violations of the laws of his
nature to which he is thereby subjected. Show your
horse exactly. what you want him to do and endeavor
to use the patience and reason in teaching and con-

THE HORSE TAMER. i)

trolling him, you would at least believe necessary
for yourself to understand if placed in lke circum-
stances.

Ignorant of the language and intentions of a teach-
er, however preserved his patience, and refrained
from abuse what progress would you make as a pupil,
gifted as you are with all your intelligence ?

If possible, elevate your feelings by relieving your
responsibility to yourself, to community and to the
noble animal committed to your charge. Make your
horse a friend by kindness and good treatment.

Be a kind master, and not a tyrant, and make your
horse a willing servant and a slave! |

EDUCATING HORSES TO OBJECTS OF FEAR.

As we learn from experience, there are no effects
without causes, and as the horse becomes fearless and
confident so far as he understands there are no causes
for fear, we should remove the cause of mischief as
much as possible, by complying with those laws of his
nature by which he examines an object or determines
upon its innocence or harm, and this is the more nec-
essary 1n his early training since first impressions are
strong in the horse, and once learning of danger when
once excited. Whatever the horse understands to be
harmless he does not fear, consequently great atten-
tion should be given to making him examine and
smell of such as would be likely to frighten him in
any place. A horse will never become satisfied in
regard to an object that startles or frightens him by
looking at it; but if you will let him approach it
slowly and examine it with his nose, he will very soon
become satisfied it is not going to injure him, and he
will care no more about it, and will never after
frighten at it however frightful it may seem to be in
appearance.

i0 THE HORSE TAMER;
THE WILD COLT.

As the training of the horse’ must be based upon
the observance of those principles of his nature, re-
quiring the exercise of his reason in everything forced
upon his attention, and of conveying to his under-
standing most clearly what is required of him, it is

advisable to commence our lesson on the management

of the horse by explaining how to proceed with the
Wild Colt. The first step to be taken is to see that
the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the
colt is unoccupied by anything which will distract the
attention of the colt, for instance, fowls and domestic
animals, etc., and all persons except the one who is to
undertake the training. This latter precaution should
be taken for the reason that the presence of other
parties would annoy the colt! Also, that by allowing
them to be present you would violate the conditions
of your instructions.

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt
into his training place as carefully as possible, using
such gentle means as may be convenient and most
likely to be successful without exciting the colt. -

Every farmer or person at all acquainted with the

management of horses, knows well enough how to do.

this in his own way without being governed by any
fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to

HALTER-BREAK THE COLT.

As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the
restraint of the enclosure, go cautiously and slowly
towards him, making no demonstrations at all, but
talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does not
understand your language, and your presence may
attract his attention. If he begins to walk away from
you, stop, but continue your talking or sing and ap-
pear as careless as you can about his presence, until

HE HORSE TAMER. it

he becomes quiet again. Then start again and lei-
surely approach him as before, and so repeat as cir-
cumstances require until you are close enough to
touch his withers, or permit him to smell of your hand
should he seem so disposed. Remember you must be
patient and gentle in all your actions. Now touch him
on. the withers gently, and gradually win his con-
fidence, so that you can handle and rub him on the
neck or head. Do not try to hold him or impose the
least restraint that would cause him to become excited
and afraid of you.

Handle the colt in this way until he becomes recon-
ciled to your presence, and will suffer you to scratch
him as you please. | a

Now step back and take your halter quietly. The
halter should be of leather. Rope halters are irritable
to young horses; they are so harsh that they hurt the
head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt the colt will
naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and
the more it will hurt, because the tighter and harder
it will pinch, which will frighten him the move and he
will try to free himself at all hazards until he pulls
himself down or breaks the halter. In that case his
experience would have been a bad one, for you would
have learned him to be a halter puller. You hold the
halter in the left hand, having unbuckled it, and ap-
proach the colt slowly; don’t be in a hurry; give him
time to smell and examine every part in his own way.
While he is examining the halter, caress and rub him;
it will further your efforts greatly to give the colt
something he likes, such as apples, oats, corn, salt,
&c., that you can get hold of handily. Then take hold
of the long strap which goes over the head with the
right hand and carry it under his neck, while you
reach the left hand over the neck and grasp the end
of this long strap; then lower the halter just enough

i2 THE HORSE TAMER.

to get his nose into the nose-piece, then raise it up to
its proper place and buckle.

This is the best method to halter a colt, and in cases
of wild ones, perseverance and patience is required,
always being careful not to become excited or angry,
for in that case the colt will show a great deal more
resistance, which in the end, and at a great loss of
time, you will have to overcome.

HITCHING COLTS IN STALL.

Two principles are involved in controlling and
teaching the horse to submit to the restraint of the
halter while hitched. Prepare your stall, which should
be about four or five feet wide by attaching a rope so
as to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike
the hind parts; or you can bore holes through so as to
put a pole in the same manner as a rope. Now tie the
halter long enough so that as the colt attempts to go
back he will strike the rope or pole across behind him,
before he can feel the restraint of the halter. You
should in this as in everything else you attempt,
teach your colt to be gentle. In every case you should
untie the halter before taking down the rope or pole.
Another method—take a half-inch rope, place under
the tail, cross on the back, bring forward and tie
under the:neck or breast; then pass the halter-strap
through the ring of the manger and tie to the rope,
so when the horse pulls he will be punished and the
impression will be made stronger than the above.

TO HALTER-BREAK A WILD COLT.

First provide yourself with a little pole about ten
or twelve feet long; cut a notch into one end with
your pocket-knife, ana about seven inches from this
end, drive a nail in, the head bent a little towards the
end having no notch. Next, you want a good half-
inch manilla rope, about thirty feet, with a slip noose

THE HORSE TAMER. 13

in one end, and a knot in the rope about twenty
inches from the end with the noose, so it will not
draw so tight as to choke the colt down, but will
allow the noose to draw tight enough to shut off his
wind, so as te prevent him from making a very obsti-
nate resistance. Now get a short breast-strap, or a
long hame-strap will do. This put into your pocket
convenient to the right hand for future use. Now
approach the colt slowly and carefully as before des-
eribed, remembering that all persons must be ex-
cluded. When you succeed in approaching to within
four or six feet of the shoulders, retreat slowly as
before and take your stick all ready prepared, holding
the notched end from you and swinging it very gentle
a little to the right and left in a horizontal position.
This is a new object of fear to the colt and will be
regarded with a great deal of suspicion. However, a
little patience will soon enable you to get so near the
colt that you can hold your stick gently over the
back and shoulders. Then gradually lower it, mov-
ing gently as before until you can place your hand on
his neck. As this is borne let it drop a little lower
nutil it rests on the mane. Now commence scratching
the neck with the stick gently but firmly. This will
please the colt and cause him to stand quiet. While
scratching with your stick in this way, slide your
right hand slowly and cautiously along its surface
until you get to the mane, when you scratch with the
hand in the place of the stick. All this is proving to
the colt that you will not hurt him, in fact you please,
and hence he submits quietly. Now step back quietly
to where your rope is and take the noose and place it
on the stick, letting it rest on the stick, and between
the nails or shavings with the main part of the noose
hanging below the stick, and large enough so as to be
slipped over the head easily while you keep the other
end of the rope in the hand with the stick. Your hal-

14 THE HORSE TAMER:

ter or noose now hangs upon your stick, so spread
that you can put it over the colt’s head without touch-
ing a hair. Your halter arranged, holding it before
you, swinging upon the stick you approach the colt in
the same cautious manner as before until you bring it
to the nose. This being a new object of fear to the
colt he will smell of it cautiously. While he is smel!-
ing it you are gradually raising it over his head—so
gently he does not feel or care about it until you get
it well back of the ears, then turn your stick and your
noose will drop on his neck. If he does not start,
take the slack in your rope gently, at the same time
approach his shoulders cautiously and rub him gently
if he will allow it.

If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the
rope. If he tries very hard to get away he soon finds
himself out of wind caused by the pressure of the rope
about the neck, consequently he will offer but little
resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to
him just as you please. Now you should use him
gently.

As soon as he will allow you to approach, loosen
the noose from his neck, and by kind words and
caresses let him know you do not wish to hurt him.
Keep on caressing him until he will allow you to rub
his neck and ears. Encourage him by feeding from
your hand something that he likes. When he submits
so far as to let you handle his head and neck, take
the other end of the rope, and tie around, hard knot
in the end and another knot about twenty-five inches
from the end, irr

This knot should be left slack. Now take the
end of the cord in the left hand and carry it under
the neck to the opposite side, while you reach over
with the right hand and take it and bring it over the
top of the neck again. Now put the knot in the end
of the cord through the other and secure by drawing

THE HORSE TAMER. 15

it as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing

it as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing
a double of the slack rope under the rope around the

neck. Make the loop long enough to slip into the

colt’s mouth, which can be done easily by gently:
insisting on his confidence. A green colt is not bad

about taking anything in his mouth if you use judg-

ment and de not frighten him. Slip this loop well up

above the bridle teeth, and place the lip well over the

jaw, under the roef. Now draw up on your loop and

take the noose you first had about the neck off entire-

ly. You now take hold of the end of the cord. You

will find you have a means of power in your hands

that makes the strongest horse almost a plaything.

And we claim the Camanche bridle and its value in

managing and training colts cannot be over-estimated

when used with judgment and handled with adroit-.
ness and skill. It should never be used so harshly as

to exeite extreme pain, and yet with a touch that
causes a fear of resistance. You now have your Ca-

manche bridle and can control the colt almost at will.

If he should endeavor to run away from you give him

a quick, sharp jerk, and at the same time say “whoa!”
and repeat as often as he may make the attempt to
get away. When he stops go up to him and caress

him about the neck and head.

When he gives up to the rope enough so that he
does not try to get away, then proceed to learn him to
lead. . With your rope in hand step back to his side,
opposite his hips, and say “come here,” at the same
time giving him a sharp pull on the halter. He will
swing around towards you, and if he only takes one
step in the right direction let him know that was what
you wanted. To make him understand that he has
done right, go up to him, speak kindly to him and call
him by 1 name, at the same time petting and caressing
with the hand.

16 {HE HORSE TAMER.

Then walk around on the opposite side and repeat:
Encourage him for every step taken in the right direc-
tion by caressing and kind words, and in a very ‘short
time he will come to you at the word and follow you
around like a dog. If the colt is willful and stub-
born, handle him with the Camanche bridle until
he will stand quietly, then take your strap previously
provided in the right hand, holding by the buckle.

Now commence raising gently the foot next to you.
If he resists your efforts, reprove him with the halter,
and keep on caressing and rubbing the leg until you
can take the foot in your hand, then slip the strap
around below the fetlock, putting the end through
the keeper on the inside of the buckle; draw it up
tight so it will not slip up, then pass the strap around
the arm from the inside of the leg and bring over to
the outside and buckle. By putting him on three legs
he can offer but little resistance when pulled by the
head sideways, and as he does not reason, will come
around as readily with his legs free as he will on three.
Now step back on a line with the hips, holding the
halter firmly and say “come here!” He. of course
does not obey; so you pull on the bridle and he is
obliged to swing around to you. Now step to the
other side and repeat; bring him around by the halter
each time until when he hears the words, “ come here!"
he will obey readily. ,

As soon as the colt submits to this step, remove the
strap from off the leg and rub the foot gently where
the strap has been. Now step back sideways, as
before, and say “come here!” If he does not come
readily, give him a sharp pull with the rope, which
shows him that you can handle him as well on four
legs as you can on three. Now if he moves a little to

obey, caress him, and so continue until he will follow
you readily.

"HE HORSE TAMER. 17

‘HOW TO HANDLE A COLT'S FEET.

After breaking the colt to lead well, caress and rub
him on the shoulders as at first, and as soon as he
will bear, work down the wethers and leg; then lift
lightly on the foot; if it is permitted, rub it quickly
and smoothly a few seconds, then put it down and
take it again, and so continue until you can handle
the foot as you please.

The main point for you to consider is that you are
to make the colt understand you will not hurt him,
and to do this you must be gentle. Now place your
hand on the shoulder and run it back over the side
and hips softly and quickly; handle every part thor-
oughly as you work along towards the leg, and as the
colt will bear, work the hands around the leg until
you reach the foot. If there is no resistance after,
lift up a little, and if there is no resistance after let-
ting it down, rub gently a little more; repeat each
time, lifting it up a little higher, until you can take it
up and handle it just as you please. Should he, how-
ever, resist and jerk his foot away from you, you must
resort to means to make him understand that resist-
ance is out of the question.

In endeavoring to manage and control your colt,
you should have your Camanche bridle on as before
described. Now take the long rope that you hold in
your hand and put it around over the front teeth of
the upper jaw and under the upper lip, carry it
around over the top of the head, bringing the end
down through the halter loop on the under jaw. Now
take the end of the rope in your left hand and proceed
as before to handle his legs and feet. If he stands
quietly use him gently, but if he should resist, correct
him with your. rope, by which you can inflict so
severe a punishment that he will submit in a very

18 THE HORSE TAMER.

short time, and allow you to handle his legs just as
you please. Persevere until you can hold the foot in
your hand, moving it gently and caressing the leg
until he gets over the fear i inspired by the use of the
cord under the lip. If more thorough treatment is
necessary, see “Proper Management “of Horses bad
to shoe.”

HOW TO BIT A COLT AND MAKE A BRIDLE.

Take your Camanche bridle, made exactly as before
described, with the exception of the loop that goes
around the neck; that should be made large enough
to fit over the neck rather tightly where the collar is
worn. Now bring your cord through the mouth from
the off side, and bring back on the near, through the
loop around the neck: now pull upon this cord and
the head will be drawn back to the breast, tie with a
bow knot and draw down close, so that should the
colt show signs of rearing backwards, with one short
jerk you can relieve him, while should he go over
backward with the restraint on his neck he would be
likely to injure himself.

You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon
the cord a little, which will draw the head back
slightly; after holding for a short time, render loose;
then draw a little tighter, and repeat for four or five
minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future
time.

The great secret not only in bitting but of training
the young horse in any manner is in not confusing or
exciting him to resistance by training too long. When
your colt yields readily to the bit, you can check the
head to suit. Making the check-rein rather tight

causes the head to be carried high, while the delicacy

- given the mouth will prevent the nose being thrown

.
D
.

THE HORSE TAMER. 19

forward. This method of bitting may be regarded
with little favor by those not understanding its effects,
but all we have further to say on the subject is, give
it a fair trial. Teach your colt to be perfectly submis-
sive to your handling in every manner; to lead well,
back freely at the word. You are now ready for the
_ next step in his training, which is eae driving
in harness.

BREAKING COLTS TO HARNESS.

Put on your harness carefully, which should be
made to fit well, and great care should be used in
having it safe and strong in every respect. Do not
be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten har-
ness, or to hitch to an old, rotten wagon, as such are
liable to give way at any time. Many of the accidents
causing horses to become subject to bad habits are
the results of such imprudence. Let every step be
made sure. Work safe, and you are sure to bring
about a good result.

With your harness on, allow him to stand in his
stall until he becomes somewhat used to the presence
and pressure of the different parts, and will allow you
to rattle them about without his caring for them.
Now lead him around for-a short time, and as soon as
he appears quiet, check him up loosely and take down
the reins and drive him around the yard. When he
becomes familiar with the harness, check and reins,
and will stop and start at the word, and drive around
to the right or left, you can drive him about the street
with safety, though in making this step put on the
Camanche bridle for safety. You should then drive
to sulky. We prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt
see and examine every part of the sulky, until he
cares nothing about it; then draw it up behind him,
rattling and running it back and forth a few times,

20 THE HORSE TAMER.

then attach the harness. Before starting him, back
him up against the cross bar of the shafts. If he
should act frightened speak to him calmly but firmly,
at the same time holding your reins firmly so as to
prevent him from swinging around, if he should try.
Then go to him and rub and caress him until he gets
over his excitement. Then run the sulky up against
his haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle
words until you can shove the sulky against him just
us you please and he not care anything about it. Now
you can get into your seat and drive him around
wherever you choose without danger. Let him go
slow at first until he becomes familiarized with the
objects that are new to him along the road, as he is
not as liable to become frightened while going slow as -
when driven fast.

OBJECTS OF FEAR.

In driving be careful about using the whip too free-
ly. If a stone or a stump, or anything of the kind
should be regarded with fear, do not whip and drive
the horse by. Let him stand a short time and look at
the object until he seems careless about it, then drive
closer, as he will bear, and so repeat, at the same
time talking to him encouragingly until you can drive
him up to the object. Be very sure to have your colt
comprehend fully that such objects are harmless—as
opportunity offers in this way—and he will soon be-
come so fearless and confident as to be regardless of
such things; but if you whip him for becoming fright-
ened at such things, he will associate the punishment
with the object of his fright, and be more frightened
the next time he sees it.

The horse being unable to reason only from his
experience, you should conyince him by careful exam-
ination that the object is harmless. For example: if

THE HORSE TAMER. 21

the sight or smell of a robe a few feet distant should
frighten him, put on your Camanche bridle and take
him alone inte. your yard or barn, lead him gently to
the robe, let him smell of it if he will, then take it in
your hand, hold it gently to his nose, then rub it
against his neck, side, and over his back, and so re-
peat for a short time. After being familiarized to it
in this way you can throw it over his back or tie it to
his tail without causing him the least fear.

To familiarize a colt to any article that he may have
regarded with fear, let him touch it with his nose, and
rub-him on the neck and side, and in a short time,
when he finds it will not hurt him he will become
reconciled and care nothing about it.

To accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to
them, let him smell of them, and even put his nose on
them, and in this way continue until he becomes
familiar with them. And then do not fail to repeat
your lessons until he cares nothing about the object.
Should you fail by neglect it may render him worse
than as though you had done nothing with him.

DRIVING A COLT IN HARNESS.

When your horse drives well before a sulky then
you may hitch him to a light wagon or by the side of
a broke horse, and if you are breaking him for a farm
or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradually increase
his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability
without comprehending that he has the power to do
otherwise. After yonr horse is sufficiently broke to
the harness you can either allow him to carry his head
as nature may dictate, or by the proper use of the
’ check-rein bring his head and neck into such position
of style as his form and temper will bear, or your
fancy dictate. In teaching your young horse to drive

22 THE HORSE TAMER.

well do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot.
Although your colt may be old enough to learn how to
move well and perhaps drive gently as an older horse,
he is not old enough to perform the work of an older
horse, fully matured. Require but little at first, grad-
ually increasing as he develops in strength and har-
dens in gaits. Care should be taken to keep each
pace clear and distinct from each other. While walk-
ing he should be made to walk, and not allowed to
trot. While trotting, as in w: alking, care. should be
taken that he keeps steady at his pace and not
allowed to slack into a walk. When occasionally
pushed to his extreme speed in trot he should be kept
up to it only for a few minutes at a time, gradually
requiring more as he becomes practised and capable
of endurance; and whenever he has done well he
should be permitted to walk a short time, and en-
couraged by a kind word. Under no circumstances
should what is termed “his bottom” be tried and
overdone. The reins while driving should be kept
snug, and when pushing him to the { top of his speed.
keep him well in hand that he may learn to bear well
on the bit, as it is by means of the reins mainly that
the horse, when going at a high rate of speed, is kept
steady in his place. But while you should teach your
horse to drive well to the pressure of the bit, be
careful not to give him the habit of pulling too hard.
for then he becomes not only unpleasant but difficult
to manage. Theart of drawing well cannot be taught
by any written instructions. Practice and ingenuity
in this respect can alone make a skillful -horseman.
Always strive to encourage and not overdrive your
horse, and be careful not whip only for merited
reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will cause
the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears
any unusual movement of it, or at any vated s that
may occur.

THE HORSE TAMER. 23

TO TRAIN A HORSE TO STAND WHEN
GETTING INTO A CARRIAGE.

Take your horse and lead him on the barn floor,
place him in the position you wish him and say “whoa!”
The object of thts lesson being to teach him the word
“whoa!” the most important word in horsemanship.
You will proceed by stepping away from him, and if
he appears to trifle and not heed you, use the Caman-
che bridle, pulling upon him to warn him to attend to
you. Practice this until he will allow you to walk
away in any direction without moving himself. Take
a whip and crack it slightly, and if he moves put him
back as before, increasing the cracks of the whip until
you accustom him to stand while the whip is being
flourished, and also to throw him and apply the
method of controlling a nervous horse. If you are
obliged to drive him while you are trying to break
him, do not use the word “whoa,” as he is not yet
accustomed to minding it, and it will only make mat-
ters worse. Shift the position of the horse and repeat
the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to
places where he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and
teach him to stand in those places, as well as teaching
him to obey the word “whoa” before hitching him -to
carriage. Then hitch inside a building with the doors
closed. Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the
thills and shake the carriage causing him to stand by
means heretofore alluded to. If it appears that the
habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him,
take him out of the thills and lead him around it,
allowing him to examine it, and even eat oats. out of
& measure set in the carriage. Now take him out of
doors, and if he renews his attempt to start, take him
out of the thills, use the Camanche bridle, fetching
him back between the thills and say, “whoa.” You
will by this means soon teach him that “ whoa” means

24 THE HORSE TAMER.

for him to stop and stand. For the sake of not un-
doing all you have done, remember the caution
heretofore given to say “whoa!” only when you mean
him to stop.

HORSES BAULKING.

This is the most aggravating of all the habits to
which the horse is subject; it tries the patience of
man to the utmost; yet by patience and perseverance,
with proper management, even this habit can be
broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which
is not a good one. They are usually very high spirit-
ed, quick of comprehension and of a strong nervous
temperament. They resist because we have failed to
make them understand what we require of them, or it
may occur from overloading sore shoulders or work-
ing until tired out. Particularly is this the case with
young animals. To whip under such circumstances
only excites them to more determined resistance. On
the first attempt of your horse to baulk get out of the
wagon, pat him on the neck, examine the harness care-
fully, first upon one side then upon the other, speaking
encouragingly to the animal while doing so; then
jump in the wagon and give the word to go; generally
he will obey; if he refuses to do so, take him out of
the thills, put up the traces so that ‘they do not drag
upon the ground, then take him by the head and tail,
reel him until he is almost ready to fall, then hook
him up again and give him the word to go; this rarely
fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them, and they
start at the word.

I have failed but once in handling baulky horses,
though I have handled a large number of them. By
repeating the same operations every day for a week,
usually breaks up this most perplexing habit thorough-
ly and permanently.

THE HORSE TAMER. : 25

Another method which often proves successful to
break a horse in double harness, is take a hemp cord,
pass around under the tail, bring forward through the
terret ring of the baulky horse and fasten to the ring
of the other horse’s collar or hame, when the other
horse starts the baulky one can do no other way than
move with him, which in a short time, if the horse is
hitched single or double by taking your whip or any
common stick and place on the backs of the crupper
strap the horse will start readily.

The only practical method of throwing a horse, first
adopted by R. V. Hamilton, is easy to the person
handling the horse, and safe. The horse lays down
quietly, almost as easy as when lying down by him-
self in the stall. To perform the work procure a rope
or any strap long enough to pass around the horse,
and tie in a knot on the back with an iron ring, small
size, tied fast; pass the end of the strap or rope
around under the tail for a crupper, bring the end
back, fastening to the belt around the body; then take
a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft;
pass around the horse’s neck, tie in a knot that will
not slip; then pass the cord through the horse’s
mouth, and stroll back to the ring on the horse’s back;
when that is accomplished pass a strap around the near
fore foot twice and through the keeper, strapping the
foot to the belt around the horse; when that is done,
step back from the horse, taking hold of the small
cord, pulling gently till you have the head to the side,
then with a quick pull bring the horse to the ground,
with his knee to steady him as he falls. It can be
done with ease and safety. Whatever may be the
bad habit of your horse, it is a very good plan to
give him a vegular course of training, and by throw-
ing a horse down and handling him just as you please
while down, demonstrates to the understanding of
the animal that it is worse than useless to try to

26 : THE HORSE TAMER.

resist control. It is the best way we have ever found
to handle nervous horses. After handling gently while
down they find they are not hurt and get over their
fear and will allow you to do with them as you like
anywhere.

PULLING AT HALTER.

Place on him a common halter head-stall. Put on
a common girt. Take a half-inch rope, about twenty
feet long. Pass the centre of this rope under the tail’
in place of a crupper; twist the rope over a couple of
times; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bring-
ing an end up on each side of the neck, and pass the
ends through the nose-piece of the head-stall under
the cheek pieces, and tie to a stout ring or place, leay-
ing about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse
falls back, he being tied by the tail to the ring, he
pulls upon the tail, and the hurt coming there instead
of the head, where he expected it, he starts up, it be-
ing natural to go from the hurt. By giving him two-
or three lessons, making him fall by whipping him
over the nose or exciting him with an object, he is
afraid of the impression being made too strong, will
not forget it, and the more so by repeating for one
month or more lessons at different times.

TO BREAK HORSES FROM JUMPING.

Tie straps to the fore feet, below the knees; pass it
up under a surcingle around the body, and tie the
other ends above the fetlock to straps inclosed in a
ring, so one will go above and the other below the
fetlock. You will see that when he attempts to jump a
fence the fore foot is drawn up under him, and as he
springs to leave the ground the hind feet will be
pulled up and he will inevitably remain in the lot.
The value of this plan is that it will in most instances
cure a horse or cow of the habit.

THE HORSE TAMER. 27

Pawing in stall and kicking of one foot. Get a piece
of chain, ten inches in length, run a short strap
through one of the end links and buckle it around the
foot above the fetlock; or a piece of light chain can
be fastened to a single block and attach it to the foot
in the same manner, when the horse attempts to paw
or kick, the clog or chain rattles against the foot and
prevents a repetition of the practice.

CRIBBING HORSES.

Place a roller at the top of your manger, six inches
in diameter, reaching across the stall. Let the horse
eat his hay and grain from the bottom of the manger.
The stall should be wide enough so as he can be tied
to prevent him from cribbing at the sides of the stall,
and also to be ceiled in front so as to prevent him.
When he attempts to crib he must inevitably work on
the roller which, when he places his teeth to crib the
roller turns, his lips come in contact with the roller
and punishes him at every attempt, and after a few
trials becomes satisfied and will not attempt to erib.
The surest remedy of breaking a cribber is to trade
him off after he has been placed in a stall as above
mentioned.

To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or
small rope, and place under his tail, cross on the back,
run through the rings of the halter; first hitch him to
a post, and by hitting him over the nose with some-
thing, or to excite him, make him pull, which will
satisfy him of his useless attempts at holding back on.
the halter; then hitch him to the wagon, and you will
find no trouble in riding home without the many
inconveniences of leading.

KICKING IN HARNESS.

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, be-
cause of the danger incident to the use of such horses.

28 THE HORSE TAMER.

It is well to remember that this habit is in most cases
the result of carelessness or mismanagement. Proper
attention is not given to the fitting of the harness; the
straps dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquaint-
ed with their nature, which frightens and causes him
to kick. Or, what is more common, an old harness is
used and breaks at some unlucky moment, which
frightens the colt, and he kicks as a means of self- .
defence, when his feet and legs coming in contact with
the. whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him greater
fright, and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a
frantic endeavor to free himself from his tormenter,
until he tears himself loose, or is stopped after being
worried out with fright and exertion. Learning fear
and resistance in this way, he becomes alarmed at the
least indication of its repetition. This fear must be
broken by familiarizing the horse with the causes of
his fear, at a time when he is powerless to resist, and
when he finds there is no danger of harm, he will
cease resistance. In the majority of cases this habit
is broken by our means of control.

To break the kicking horse, you want to put him
through a regular course of handling that will con-
vince him of your ability to manage him just as you
please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his
understanding that he can not help himself, and must
submit unconditionally to your control. In the first
place, then, give him a turn with the Camanche bridle
—making him stop at the word “whoa!” and come to
you at the word. When he submits to that, proceed
still further in convincing him of your power and
mastery by throwing him down. To do this, fasten up
the near fore leg, as described in “ Handling the Feet.”
Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring slipped on it,
around the animal, and slip the ring to the right side
of the horse, near the back-bone. Now draw the end
of your cord or Camanche bridle through the ring,

THE HORSE TAMER. 29

bringing it over to the near side of the animal; now
take the halter out of the mouth, thus leaving a plain
loop around the horse’s neck; then take hold of your -
cord with the left hand and straighten it out. Now
you have a plain double from the neck of the horse
around to the ring on the right side; you put this into
the horse’s mouth, and draw up the end of the cord
with the right hand. Now you have him completely
in your power; you can handle him as easily as a boy
could a top. Now step back by his side with the cord
grasped firmly in your hand, say “lie down, sir,” at
the same time pulling sternily on the rope. His foot
being fastened up he is easily thrown off his balanceed.
He will gradually settle down on to the knee of the
near leg, when a quick pull will bring him over on his
side. Now you have him down, use him gently; rub
his head and neck; talk to him kindly, thus letting
him know that your object is not to hurt him—that
all you require is submission, and that you possess the
ability to enforce that. After letting him he for a
while, make him get upon three legs, let him stand a
moment, then put him down again. While down,
handle his feet and legs as you please, and so continue
until he will lie still and submit to you in everything
you wish. Then take the strap off his leg and let him
get up; caress and rub his leg where the strap has
been. Now put the harness on. Use a blind bridle
with a W bit (or some call it a double-joint bit), and
if you can not obtain one at your harness maker’s, go
to a blacksmith and have one made. With this kind
of a bit on your horse, you want to drive him around
your yard, occasionally saying “ whoa!” at the same time
setting him back upon his haunches with the bit. In
a very short time he will stop when you say “whoa!”
without any pull on the rein; then go up to him and
caress him about the head and neck; then take your
whip and switch him around the hind legs and flanks,

30 THE HORSE TAMER:

lightly, and if be shows a disposition to kick or run.
say “whoa!” sharply, at the same time correct with the
bit. In your first lessons use the bit with severity—
thus demonstrating to the horse your determination
and ability to enforce obedience under any and all
circumstances of resistance. When you can drive him
around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the
word without using the rein, go to him again and pat
and rub him to encourage him in well-doing. Then
attach the long cord to your reins, and start him away
from you at a trot, letting him go as far as the length
of your cord will permit without pulling on the bit.
when you will say “whoa!” If he stops, go up and
caress him, and keep on in that way until he will stop
and start at the word, no matter how far away he is,
so long as he can hear your voice. After you have
him so well in hand that he obeys readily and will-
ingly, take the reins in your hand and learn him to
back, encouraging him by kindness when he does
right, and correcting with the bit when he shows the
least intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When
he will back at the word, back him against your buggy
wheels, keeping an eye on his movements, and if he
shows fear and a disposition to get away from it, do
not force him against it at first, but drive him around
and up to it, letting him smell and examine it until
he becomes satisfied it is not gomg to hurt him; then
back him up to it again—right back against it—and
if he is disposed to kick say “whoa!” sharply, at the
same time giving him a short, quick jerk with the rein.
By this treatment he finds that you still have the same
power in your hands that has already controlled him
so completely and easily, therefore he submits uncon-
ditionally. You can now proceed to hitch him up;
watch him closely, and if anything should excite him
momentarily, and he should manifest a desire to

repeat his old habit, say “whoa!” and if he does not obey

i
b
4

THE HORSE TAMER. SL

instantly, set him back with the bit in a manner that
shall have no doubt of your ability to control him at
will. If handled in this way for a few times he be-
comes convinced of the uselessness of resistance, and
careful management for two or three weeks will radi-
cally break the worst horse of this kind we ever saw.
People have often expressed wonder at our success in
managing kicking and runaway korses. The simple
laws of nature are to such unworthy of reflection, ex-
cept the submission of the animal, the control is
looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But we
do control them perfectly and thoroughly by the word
“whoa!” In breaking to the word we use means that
compel obedience. If your horse minds the word
quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not. going to
do you or himself any damage by kicking, for if you
stop him whenever the old habit is brought to mind,
and let him stand until the excitement is over, he will
have no incentive for kicking, and in a short time will
forget the habit altogether. So with

THE RUNAWAY HORSE.

Handle with the Camanche bridle, and by throwing
the same as the kicking horse in harness, unless the
habit is caused by fear of some object, such as an
umbrella, buffalo robe, or anything else that may
frighten him and catse him to run away; if that
should be the case, when you have him down take the
frightful object—whatever it may be—around him,
throw it onto him, at the same time rub and caress
him, let him know it is nothing that will hurt him;
then let him up, put it on or over him, rub him with
it, and in that way familiarize bim with it until he
cares nothing about it. Then train him in harness
until he will mind the word “whoa!” Make him run, and
if he does not stop at the word, stop him by the bit

32 THE HORSE TAMER.

so suddenly as to disconcert him and distroy his con-: |
fidence completely.

Although we have given a powerful means of coer-
cion, and of impressing the horse of his inability to
resist the power of man, still practical and thorough
as those means are, they are of but little account if
not used with prudence and judgment. Men are too
apt to depend upon main strength and stupid harsh-
ness for success in the management of horses. And
with equal stupidity the basis of control we have here
given may be made in the hands of some a power to.
be abused with reckless disregard of consequences.
Be firm, persevering and prudent in the exercise of
your power when it is necessary to impress your sub-
ject with a sense of mystery; but be gentle, attractive
and affectionate when he is obedient and submissive.
Train your horse thoroughly with the Camanche bri-
dle each sime before hitching up. We find by expe-
rience that horses subject to bad habits are ungovern-
able in the mouth. If we govern the mouth well we
have, in almost every instance, a good control of the
horse; and it is an important requisite, under all cir-
~ eumstances, in the control of horses in harness. Then
control while driving, until thorough and certain obe-
dience is insured to the word. Strive to tell your
horse exactly what you want him to do, and do not
confuse him by attaching different meanings to the
same word. It is quite common to say ‘ whoa!” when
it is intended to go slower, or to attract the attention
of the horse when standing, to let him know of your
presence. Now if anything should happen, and you
wished him to stop suddenly, he would not be hkely
to mind without a pull at the bit; and why should he,
as long as he has been learned in that haphazard way
that ‘whoa !” meant anything and nothing at the same
time ? Such training confuses the horse so much that,
though he is naturally obedient and tractable, he will

THE HORSE TAMER. ao

become careless and obstinate. Have a distinct word
for every command, and make him understand that
every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural
tone of voice to your horse under all circumstances.
Nothing confuses a horse more than screaming at him
to have him hear. He is as acute in the sense of hear-
ing as a man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have
his pulse increased from six to ten beats a minute by
one harsh word. Have your horse understand that
things likely to frighten are harmless, and be sure not
to whip for being frightened. If your horse is fright-
ened at anything approaching, let him stand until it
passes; but hold the reins snug and firmly, or he may
swing round and upset you. If cars are passing, and
are regarded with fear, let your horse face them, but
hold him immovable with the reins. Always, under
such circumstances, talk encouragingly to him, remem-
bering the slower you move him the more power you
have over him. There is but little danger of a horse
kicking after being stopped or while moving slowly,
and so with the runaway. He will seldom make a
second attempt at the time he has been foiled and
stopped. A horse frightened becomes reckless, con-
sequently never raise an umbrella suddenly or unex-
pectedly behind a horse afraid of such things. First
raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, and
then, to make sure, if you have not a bit that will con-
trol your horse easily, put on a Camanche bridle and
carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear and anger
is something that a good horseman should never ex-
hibit in his countenance or voice, as the horse is a
close observer and soon learns to take advantage of
such indications to become careless, or excited by
anger, may become aggressive or unmanageable. Let
your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be
gentle and patient with the colt, but make the willful,
stubborn horse feel the full extent of your power.

34. THE HORSE TAMER:

Make the old reprobate know that the only alterna-
tive is unconditional submission to your will; though
if he should become too much heated and excited, it
is prudent to stop, and repeat the lesson at some
future time; but repeat until there is thorough and
inconditional submission. After a horse submits, let
your treatment be characterized by gentleness and
good nature.

BAD TO SHOE.

The habit of resistance to being shod or allowing
_the feet to be handled, like all others to which horses
are subject, is the result of hasty and imprudent harsh-
ness. It would seem from the reckless disregard of
consequences so generally evinced in handling young
horses, as though .man doubted his own reason and
would not take counsel of the teachings of prudence.
If the feet had been handled gently at first, and black-
smiths had not vented so much of their vexation in
the way of pounding with the hammer for every little
moyement of resistance in shoeing, this habit would
never have been contracted. The natural tractability
of the horse causes him to yield a ready obedience to
all reasonable demands that he comprehends. If the
feet are jerked up roughly, and without an effort to
reconcile him to being handled, the colt will strive to
get away or free himself from what he supposes will
hurt him. Never hold to the foot with all your might
when the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in such a
case strength is not your forte, and your struggles
only convince the horse of your weakness. Handle the
horse in conformity with the laws of nature, so as not
to excite resistance through fear of injury. If the horse
does not very much resist the handling of his feet, put
the Camnnche bridle on him and put a short strap on
his hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring the
foot forward, and he will probably resist by, kicking.

a Pa oye -

THE HORSE TAMER. 85

The instant he kicks, reprove with the Camanche bri-
die, which is held in the other hand, and so continue
until the foot is submitted without resistance. But if
your subject is véry bad, take a strap or rope about
twelve feet long, aud tie one end of it in a loop around
his neck where the collar rests, pass the other end
back between the fore legs and around the near hind
leg below the fetlock, thence back between the legs
and through the loop around the neck. Now step in
front of the horse and take a firm hold of the rope or
strap and give a quick pull upon it, which will bring
the foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot
as far forward as you can, which will give you the
more advantage. The horse will try to free the foot
by kicking. Hold the head firmly with the left hand
and with the other hold the strap firmly. Stand
right up to the horse’s shoulder and whirl him about
you, which you can easily do while he struggles to
free himself. As soon as he yields, handle the foot
gently, and then let up on it a little, and so continue
until he will let you handle the foot without resist-
ance. Jt may be necessary to repeat the lesson once
or twice, and be careful to handle the foot with the
greatest gentleness.

If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck
instead of the loop, and fasten your strap to it. Use
a smooth soit strap, so as not to chafe the foot where

_ 1t passes around it.

SHOEING.

If we examine the horse’s foot while in the natural
state, it will be found to be almost round and very
elastic at the heel, the frog broad, plump, and of a
soft, yielding character; the commissures open and
well defined, the sole concave; the outside crust from
the heel to the toe increased from a slight bevel to an
angle of forty-five degrees; consequently as the foot

36 THE HORSE TAMER.

grows it becomes wider and longer in proportion to
the amount of horn secreted, and narrower and
shorter in proportion to the ground surface. If a shoe
were fitted nicely and accurately to the foot after
being dressed down well, it would be found too nar-
row and short for the same foot after a lapse of a few
weeks. Nowif an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed
firmly to this naturally enlarging and elastic hoof, it
prevents its natural freedom of expansion almost
wholly, and does not allow the foot to grow wider at
the quarters as it grows down, in proportion to the
amount of horn grown, as before shod; consequently
the foot is changed by the continued restraint of the
shoe, from a nearly round, healthy foot to a contract-
ed and unhealthy condition, as generally seen in horses
shod for a few years.
The principles which should govern in shoeing are
few and simple, and it is surprising, considering the
serious consequences involved, that it should be done
with so little consideration. The object of the shoer
should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the
shoe, to keep the foot natural, and this involves first
the cutting away of any undue accumulation of horn,
affecting in the least its health and freedom. Second,
to carry out in the shape of the shoe, that of the foot
as nearly as possible. Third, to fit and fasten the shoe
to the foot so as least to interfere with its health,
growth, and elasticity. The preparation of the foot
requires the cutting away of about the proportion of
horn which, coming in contact with the ground, would
have worn off, or which has aceumulated since being
shod last. If the shoes have been on a month, the
proportion of horn that was secreted in that time is to
be removed. If two months, then the proportion of
two months’ growth. No definite rule can be given;
the judgment must be governed by the circumstances
of the case. The stronger and more rapid the growth

ad) =a

—s ee

THE HORSE TAMER. 37

of the foot, the more must be cut away; and. the
weaker and less horn produced the less to the extrem-
ity of simply leveling the crust a little, the better to
conform to the shoe. There is generally a far more

rapid growth of horn at the toe than at the heels or

the quarters; more will be required to be taken off
there than off the other parts. Therefore shorten the
toe and lower the heels until you succeed in bringing
down the bearing surface of the hoof upon the shoe
to almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be
careful to make the heels level. Having lowered the

‘ erust to the necessary extent with the buttress or

knife, smoothe it down level with the rasp. The sole
and frog detach by exfoliation as it becomes s1pera-
bundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring
were it not for the restr aining effect of the shoe upon
the general functions of the foot, which is liable to
prevent such detachment of the horn. We would be
particular, also, in impressing the necessity of not
confounding the bars with the substance of the sole,
and set ‘ting them down to the common level with the
sole. Any. man of common sense can see that the
bearing of the bars should be equal to the outside of
the crust upon the shoe, and that they offer a decided
resistance to the contraction of the heels. The cutting
away of the bars to give the heels an open appearance,
is inexcusable, and should never be done. In a natu-
ral, healthy condition, the frog has a line of bearing
with the hoof, and by its elastic nature acts as-a safe-
guard to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately
over it, and helps to preserve the foot in its natural
state by keeping the heels spread. It seems to be
wisely intended to give life and health to the foot.
Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addition
of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its natural
position and causes it to shrink and harden, and bears,
in consequence, an important influence in setting up

38 THE HORSE TAMER.

a diseased action that usually results in contraction
of the foot. If the heels are square and high, and the
hoof presents rather a long narrow appearance, and
is hollow on the bottom, there is astate of contraction
going on, and you must not hesitate to dress down
thoroughly. Do not hesitate because the foot will
appear small. Cut away until you are well down to a
level with the line horn of the sole, and if the foot is
weak, use the same prudence in not cutting it away
too much. The shoer must always bear in mind that
the sole must not rest on the shoe. Let the foot be
so dressed down, and the shoe so approximate, that
the bearing will come evenly upon the crust all the
way around without the sole touching the shoe. This
requires the crust to be dressed level, and although
well down to the live horn of the sole, it should always
be left a ttle higher. The corners between the bars
and crust should be well pared out, so that there is no
danger of the sole resting upon the shoe. Presuming
that we have said enough on the subject of paring, we
will now consider

THE SHOE.

The main object should be to have the shoe so
formed as to size, weight, fitting, and fastening, as to
combine the most advantages of protection and pre-
serve the natural tread of the foot best. In weight it
should be proportioned to the work or employment of
the horse. The foot should not be loaded with more
iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the hoof is
light, the shoe should be light also; but if the horse
works principally on the road, his shoes should be
rather heavy. In its natural state, the foot has a con-
cave sole surface, which seems to offer the greatest
fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling.
Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent shoers, are
fashioned on this principle, and aside from the advan-

———_ =

a

{HR HORSE TAMER, 39

tage of hghtness and strength, they aré considered to
be an improvement on the common flat shoe. Geo. H.
Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said once on the subjeet of
shoeing: “The-action of concave feet may be com-
pared to that of the claws of a cat, or the nails on the
fingers and toes of a man, the nails and toes are the
faler um; they grasp, as it were, the bodies with which
they come in contact, and thus they secure a fulcrum
of resistance when traveling or grasping.” Now, in
order to preserve the natural mechanical action of the
horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must
correspond exactly with the ground surface of the
foot; that is to say, the ground surface of the shoe
must be leveled cup-fashion; its outer edge being
prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of
the hoof, while the shoe being hollow, it resembles
the natural concave form of the sole of the foot.

No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether
it be high or low heeled, contracted at the heels,
lengthened or shortened at the toe, or having a con-
cave or convex sole, it matters not; the ground surface
of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of
the shoe alterations and deviations from any given
rule or form are needed, in consequence of the ever
varying form of the foot and the condition of the
same, both as regards health and disease, but the sole
of the foot being concave presents a pattern for the
ground surface ‘of the shoe which the smith, with all
his skill, cannot improve on, and if all such craftsmen
were to follow this pattern more closely than they do,
there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less
number of lame horses. The shoe should be of equal
thickness all the way round, perfectly level on the top
side, and concave on the ground surface.

We can not see the propriety, as given by a stan-
dard author, of seating all shoes alike, and of carrying
them well back at the heel. Seating appears to be

40 THE HORSE TAMER.

necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the inside
edge of the shoe must be lowered from the possible
bearing of the sole, and enough to run the picker
around between the shoe and hoof, to remove any
eravel or foreign matter that may find a lodgment
between them. If there is much space between the
shoe and sole, it invites accumulation of gravel and
other subtances injurious to the foot. :

if the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is:
wide at the heels, instead of bearing on a level surface -

as they should, come down upon this inclined plane, it

tends to crowd them together. Ii the shoe is not wide -

in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be
made perfectly level on top. At all events, that por-
tion upon which rests the heels and crust, should be
level and accurately fitted. The shoe should be con-
tinued around toward the heel so far as the crust ex-
tends, as large as the full unrasped hoof, but no part
must project beyond it, excepting at the extreme of
the heel. The expansion of the heel and the growth of
the foot requires that the shoe should be long enough
and wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural
erowth of the foot during the time the shoe is expected
to remain on the foot; for as the foot grows, the shoe
is drawn forward, until it loses its original proportion,
and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be
a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme
bearing of the heels, and the nail holes should be

punched coarse and in the center of the web. In the’

hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three well
forward in the inside toe, as found necessary to retain
the shoe.

The manner of fastening the shoe is what really
affects the foot, and what requires the most special
attention in shoeing; for the foot being elastic, ex-
pands in the same proportion on the rough as on the
nicely fitted shoe. It is the number and position of

= oe ceell

THE HORSE TAMER. 41

the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed
well back in the quarters, four on a side, as is common,
the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if
in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action nec-
essary to its health. Inflammation of the- sensitive
laminze is produced, which causes contraction and the
consequent derangement of the whole foot.

If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the
spreading of the quarters in proportion to the growth
of the hoof is prevented by the nailing of the shoe,
irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust
and coffin-bone will result, and ultimately create so
much diseased action of the parts as to cause contrac-
tion and navicular disease. Shoes may be securely
fastened without causing such mischief, if the follow-
ing method of nailing is observed: Drive four nails on
the outside of the foot the same as common, while you
drive two or three well forward in the toe of the oppo-
site side, which leaves the inside quarter virtually free
and independent of the shoe, for the outside of the
foot being the only part fastened, carries the shoe with
it at every expansion, while the inside, being unat-
tached, expands independently of it, and the foot is
left as nearly as possible in-a state of nature so far as
its powers of expansion are concerned. It may be
asked, will this style of nailing hold shoes on the feet
of horses of all work? We answer, yes; experience has
fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold the shoe
on ordinary feet for any purpose, if the shoes are
properly fitted, for a period of from four to seven
weeks, which is as long as shoes should be on without
re-setting. If shoes are made with little clips, to keep
them from being shoved back under the foot, they will
require less nailing. If seven nails are found to be
necessary, have the three on the inside drove in the
space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the
toe, though in most cases two will be found sufficient

42 THE HORSE TAMER.

for the purpose. Turn down the clinchers snugly.
Nothing should be done for what might be called
“fancy.” The hoof should never be filed or rasped
above the clinches, as the hoof is covered by a pecu-
liar enamel that prevents the too rapid evaporation of
moisture from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed.
The practice of rasping, filmg or sandpapering the
hoof to make it look nice, only produces mischief, and
should never be allowed. Horses kept for ight driv-
ing and irregular work—particularly those having
rather square, upright heels—should be shod on the
one-sided nailing principle, as the feet of such horses
are much disposed to contraction. So far as observa-
tion and experience teaches us, we find proper atten-
tion to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes
so as not to interfere with the free expansion of the
hoof (as above) will remedy contraction; though at-
tention to growing down the crust, and the use of
shoes that are slightly convex or leveled out, so as to
have a tendency to spread the heels when the weight
of the body is thrown upon the foot, and fastening on
the principle of the inside quarter being left free, is
regarded as much better; but the blacksmith must be
a good workman to fashion and fit a shoe in this way
properly. The nails should not be driven higher in
the crust than seven-eighths of an inch, and not so
deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If
the foot is light, and shows a thin, delicate crust, the
nails should be small and not driven high or deep into
the horn. As arule, the fewer and smaller the nails
used—provided they secure the shoe to the foot—the
better. Shoes should be re-set as often as once a
month, though in some cases they need not require
setting so often. It is positively necessary at six, and
must not be neglected longer than seven or eight
weeks, if you would preserve the natural shape of
the foot.

THE HORSE TAMER. 43

FOR. INTERFERING.

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the
foot hits the opposite ankle. This you can do by
wrapping the ankle with a white cloth, which cover
with some kind of coloring matter over where the op-
posite foot hits; then drive the horse until you can
discover by some of the coloring matter adhering
what portion of the crust hits the ankle. Remove this
portion of the crust, and have the shoe set well under
the foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot
safely by bearing on the bar and heel. The hoof
should be pared lowest on the outside, to turn the
ankle that the other hoof may pass clear. Yet if the
inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and
the inside is found to be actually lower than the out-
side. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should be light, of
narrow web on the inside, with three nail-holes near
the toe. They should be straight at the point where
they come in contact with the opposite ankle. By
adhering to this principle strictly of paring the foot
and fitting and fastening the shoe, you will prevent a
recurrence of the difficulty. Shoes, to prevent over-
reaching, should be long, and for the forward feet
heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind feet
light, with heavy toes. The hoof should be well pared °

at the toe.
CORNS.

Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the
heel. They are generally caused by the shoe, being
worn too long, causing the shell of the hoof to grow
over the shoe, which throws the weight upon the sole,
or the angles between the bars and crust are not kept
properly dressed out—for any accumulation of horn
between the bars and crust which would prevent the
free elasticity of the sole at the heel must increase the

risk of producing corns, by the liability there is of

44 THE HORSE ‘TAMER. :

causing the sensitive laminze beneath the edges of the
coftin-bone to become bruised, owing to the undue
pressure it may be subjected to for want of elasticity
in the horny sole. When the sensitive laminz is thus
bruised the horny substance of which the sole is com-
posed is secreted in less quantities, the blood from the
ruptured vessels mingles with the imperfectly secreted
matter, and as the process is going on it soon makes
its appearance on the outside.

TO CURE CORNS.

Cut the corn well down, but not quite to the quick;
fit the shoe so as not to press upon the part, then sat-
urate with fine gum, which is found exuding from
trees when cut. Fill the part nicely with tow, then

put on the shoe, remembering that the shoe must be,

so fitted as not to oblige the part to support but very
little, if any, of the weight of the horse. We have
had horses troubled with corns treated in this way
with very good effect. Horses with corns must be
oftener and more carefully shod than those free from
them. In shoeing, strive to keep the form of the foot
natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this rule;
and lastly, have the shoes re-set at least every six or
seven weeks.

TO LEARN A HORSE TO APPEAR
INTELLIGENT.

As many of our scholars may wish to know how to
teach their horses tricks we will explain how it may
be done. Teaching your horse a few trick serves greatly
to keep an interest in him and makes him appear fear-
less, intelligent, and affectionate. In teaching a horse
tricks it is best to give him one or two lessons daily of
half or three quarters of an hour each.

YHE HORSE TAMER. 45

TO COME AT THE CRACK OF THE WHIP, OR WORD.

Put on the Camanche bridle, stand off a few feet,
nolding the halter in your left hand and the whip in
the right. Crack the whip and say “Come here, sir !’’
He does not know what this means, but you show him
by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by
moving towards you a few steps. This movement you
should thank him for by feeding him something that
he likes from your hand, and by petting and caressing
him upon the head and neck; then repeat in the same
way, rewarding him as before, and so continue until
he will walk up to you cree y time you crack the whip
or say ‘Come here, sir!” which he will soon learn te
do. Each time he comes to you talk to him kindly
and do not fail to give him his reward of corn or
. something he likes. You can now take off the halter
and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully compre-
hends that.the way to avoid the whip is to come to
you, which, with the encouragement of rewarding him
for so doing, will soon inspire him with confidence,
and he will come to you and follow like a dog. Be
very cautious about the use of the whip or harsh lan-
guage, remembering that perfect, cheerful obedience
is your object, and that can be secured only by great
patience and gentleness.

TO MAKE A BOW.

Take a pin in the right hand, between the thumb
and forefinger, and stand at his left side near the
hips; tell him to make a bow. Then pricking him
very lightly on the small of the back, this will make
him move his head; keep pricking him till you get
the right motion of ‘the head, then caress him where
you have been pricking him. Or take your pin as
before and stand up to his shoulder and prick him on
the breast lightly, as if a fly were biting, which to
relieve he will bring down his head, which you will

46 THE HORSE TAMER.

accept as a bow, and reward by caressing on the side
of the neck. Then repeat until he will bring down
his head at the least motion of your hand towards his
breast or any other signal that be will understand
readily.

TO SAY NO.

Stand by your horse’s shoulder, tell him to shake
his head, at the same time prick him lightly on the
withers or neck, which will cause him to shake his
head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as
before, and repeat until he will shake his head at the
least indication of your touching him with the pin;
you can train your horse so nicely in this way in a
short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake
his head by merely turning the hand a little or mov-
ing it slightly towards him.

TO LIE DOWN.

To teach a horse to lie down quickly you must lay
him down a few times with the rope and strap, as
described in Tampering with Vicious Horses. When
down treat your horse with great attention and kind-
ness. After putting him down a few times in this way
he will usually lie down in a short time by taking up
one foot and holding it in your hand, asking him to
le down; he will soon come down. When he will
come on his knees by taking his foot in your hand,
stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, “ Lie down,
sir!” Then make him come down by a motion of the
hand, and finally by simply telling him to le down. |

In teaching a horse to he down, be gentle, caress
and reward him for lying down, and your horse, com-
prehending what you want and finding himself paid
for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get down
for the reward as you are to have him do so.

HE HORSE TAMER, AF

TO SIT UP.

When your horse will lie down readily you can then
iearn him to sit up, like a dog, easily. First, cause
him to lie down, having on a common bridle, with the
reins over his neck; then step behind him and step
firmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins
in the left hand while with the right bear down firmly
on the hips, thus in position, ‘say “Get up, sir!” The
‘horse, rising from a recumbent position, first turns on
his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises him-
self-on them, springs forward and raises on his hind
feet. Now standing on his tail firmly, and pulling
back upon the reins when he attempts to spring for-
ward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you will
hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few seconds,
talking te him kindly, before permitting him to rise
on his feet. Repeat a few times, when instead of
springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time,
which you are to accept as complying with your wishes.

Always say “Sit up, sir!” every time, and hold him
in the position as long as he will bear, by fondling and
talking to him kindly, and your horse will soon learn
to sit up for you as long as you please. But if your
horse is heavy and strong it will be necessary to resort
to other means to hold him down at first. This you
do by putting on his neck a common collar, and caus-
ing him to lie down; then fasten a halter-strap to each
hind foot and bring forward through the collar and
draw up close, which wiil bring the “hind feet well for-
ward. Then step behind as before, and when he
attempts to rise on his hind feet he will find it i impos-
sible to do so, because you hold them forward by those
straps. Repeat two or three times, when it will not
be necessary to resort to such force.

TO LEARN A HORSE HOW TO DANCE.

Put on the Camanche bridle; take hold of the cord

some four or five feet from the horse’s head, and with

48 THE HORSE TAMER.

a whalebone whip tap him on the shin or ankle until
he lifts his foot, then caress him, and do the same
with the other, and caress; then make him raise first
one foot then the other, and caress; then make him
raise them several times, until he moves his whole body
by the motion of the whip to the time of music.

TO LEARN TO WALTZ.

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle
around his chest and fasten the bridle-reins to it, the
left rein much the tightest, bringing his head well”
round to the left side. Then make him move forward.
when he follows his head, and every time as he is
turning his head from you give him a sharp cut with
the whip, which will make him jump round quickly
until his head comes around to you again. #Then you
should caress and encourage him by talking kindly.
He will then be slower to move his head from you,
but you must continue with the whip every time the
horse’s hind parts are to you and his head from yon.
caressing every few minutes, until he understands to
move at the motion of the whip.

TO TEACH A HORSE TO KISS YOU.

Teach him first to take an apple, or something that
he likes, out of your hand; when gradually raising the
hand nearer the mouth at each repetition. until you
require him to take it from your mouth, holding it with
your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you.
He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth,
first to get his apple, but finally because commanded
to do so. Simply repeat until your horse understands
and will do the trick thoroughly.

TO SHAKE HANDS.

Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fet-
lock. Stand directly in front of the horse, holding the
end of the strap in your hand, then say “ Shake hands,

THE HORSE TAMER. 49

sir!” and immediately pull upon the strap, which will
bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept as
shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and
rubbing his leg, and so repeat until when you make
the demand he will bring the foot forward in antici-
pation of having it pulled up. Thisis a very easy trick
to teach a horse. By a little practice a horse may be
easily trained to approach, make ‘a bow, shake hands,
follow lke a dog, lie down, sit up, etc., which makes
him appear both polite and intelligent. Never lose
courage or confidence in your ability because you do
not bring about good results easily. To accomplish
wunythine of importance, remember, requires no ordi-
nary resolution and perseverance. There will be no
credit or importance attached to mastering and man-
aging bad horses if not difficult and apparently
dangerous. No duty requires more firmness of pur-
pose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity to
the principles of kindness and truth, than that of
Horsemanship.

RULES AND REGULATIONS

FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF
LEROTTING AND RACING
OVER THE

UNION COURSE, LONG ISLAND.

The ulkowane are one Pale a Regulations for
the government of ail trotting and pacing matches to
come off on the Union Course, Long Island:

‘Ruxe 1. Nature of ules. —All matches or sw eep-
stakes which shall come off over this conrse will be
governed by these rules, unless the contrary is mutu-
ally agreed upon by the parties making such match
or stake.

2. Power of Postponement.—In case of unfavorable
weather, or other unavoidable causes, all purses,
matches, sweepstakes announced to come off, to which
the proprietors contribute, they shall have the power
to postpone to a future day, upon giving notice of
the same.

3. Qualifications of Horses Starting.—Horses trained
in the same stable, or owned in part by the same per-
son, within three days, shall not start for a purse; and
horses so entered shall forfeit their entrance. A horse
starting alone shall receive but one-half of the purse.
Horses deemed by the judges not fair trotting horses
shall be ruled off previous to, or distanced at the ter-
mination of the heat.

4. Hntries.—All entries shall be made under a seal,
‘ inelosing the entrance money (ten per cent. on the |
purse), and addressed to the proprietor, at such time
and place as may have been previously designated by
advertisement.

52 THE HORSE TAMER.

5. Weight to be Carried.—Every trotting horse start-
ing for match, purse or stake, shall carry one hundred
and forty-five pounds; if in the harness, the weight of
the sulky and harness not to be considered. Pacing
horses liable to the same rule.

6. Distances.—A distance for mile heats, best three
in five, shall be one hundred yards; for one mile heats,

eighty 3 yards; and for every additional mile, an addi-
tional eighty yards.

7. Time Between Heats.—The time between heats
shall be, for one mile, twenty minutes; for every addi-
tional mile an additional five minutes.

8. Power of Judges.—There shall be chosen by the
proprietors of the course, or stewards, three judges to
preside over a race for purses, and by them an addi-
tional judge shall be appointed for the distance stand;
they may, also, during or previous to a race, appoint
inspectors at any part of the course, whose reports,
and theirs alone, shall be received of any foul riding
or driving.

9. Difference of Opinion Between Judges.—Should a
difference of opinion exist between the judges in the
starting stand on any question, a majority shall govern.

10. Judges’ Duties.—The judges shall order the
horses saddled or harnessed five minutes previous to
the time appointed for starting; any rider or driver
causing undue detention after being called up, by —
making false starts or otherwise, the judges may give
the word to start without reference to the situation of
the horse so offending, unless convinced such delay is
unavoidable on the part of the rider or driver, in.
which case not more than thirty minutes shall be
consumed in attempting to start; and at the expira-
tion of that time, the horse or horses veady to start
shall receive the word.

11. Starting Horses.—The pole shall be drawn for
by the judges ; the horse winning a heat shall, for

THE HORSE TAMER. 53

the succeeding heats, be entitled to a choice of the
track; on coming out on the last stretch, each horse
shall retain the track first selected; any hor se deviat-
ing shall be distanced.

12. Riders or Driver s.—Riders or drivers shall not
be permitted to start unless dressed in jockey style.

13. Weight of Riders and Drivers.—Riders and driv-
ers Shall weigh in the presence of one or more of the
judges previous to starting; and after a heat, are. to
come up to the starting stand, and not dismount: until
so ordered by the judges; any rider or driver disobey-
ing shall, on weighing, be precluded from the benefit
of the weight of his saddle and whip, and if not full
weight, shall be distanced.

14. Penalty for Foul Riding or Driving.—A rider or
driver committifig any act which the judges may deem
foul riding or driving, shall be distanced.

15. Horses Breaking.—Should any horse break from
his trot or pace, it shall be the duty of the rider to pull
his horse to a trot or-pace immediately, and in case of
the rider or driver refusing to do so, the penalty shall
be that the next best horse shall have the heat; if the
rider or driver should comply with the above, and he
should gain by such break, twice the distance so gained
shall be taken away on the coming out; a horse break-
ing on the score shall not lose the heat by so doing.

16. The Winning Horse.—A horse must win two
heats to be entitled to the purse, unless he distance all
other horses in one heat. A distanced horse in a dead
heat shall not start again.

17. Relative to Heats.—A horse not winning one
heat in three shall not start for a fourth heat, unless
such horse shall have made a dead heat. When a
dead heat is made betaveen two horses, that if either
had won the heat the race would have been decided,
they two only shall start again; in races best three in
five, a horse shall win one heat in five to be allowed

54 THE HORSE TAMER.

to start for the sixth heat, unless such horse shall have
made a dead heat; such horses as are prevented from
starting by this rule shall be considered drawn, and
not distanced.

18. On Heats and Distances.—If two horses each win
a heat, and neither are distanced in the race, the one
coming out ahead on the last heat to be considered the

best. The same rule to be appled to horses neither

winning a heat and neither distanced. If one horse
wins a heat, he is better than one that does not, pro-
vided he does not get distanced in the race; then the
other, if not distanced, shall be best. A horse that
wins a heat and is distanced is better than one not
winning a heat and being distanced in the same heat.
A horse distanced in the second heat is better than
one distanced in the first heat.
19. Horses Drawn.—Horses drawn before the con-
clusion of the race shall be considered distanced.

20. Outside Bets——In all matches made play or pay; —

outside bets not to be considered play or pay,.unless
so understood by the parties.

21. Of Play or Pay Matches.—Al moneys bet on
play or pay matches by outside betters are not con-
sidered play or pay.

22. Betting.—Absent Belters—A confirmed bet can
not be let off without mutual consent. If either party
be present at the time of trotting, and the money be
not staked, the party present may declare the bet void
in the presence of the judges, unless some party will
stake the money betted for the absentee.

23. Compromised Matches.—All bets made by outside

betters on compromised matches are considered drawn.

24. Belters of Odds, etc.—The person who bets the
odds has the right to choose the horse or the field.
When he has chosen his horse the field is what starts
against him; but there is no field unless one starts
with him. If odds are bet without naming the horses

THE HORSE TAMER. 55

before the trot is over, it must be determined as the
odds were at time of making it. Bets made in trotting
are not determined till the purse is won, if the heat 1 is
not specified at the time of betting.

25. Horses Excluded from Starting or Distanced.—All
bets made on horses precluded from starting (by Rule
19), being distanced in the race, or on such horses
against each other, shall be drawn.

26. In Cases of Dispute and Improper Conduct.—In
all cases of dispute not provided for by the rules, the
judges for the day will decide finally. In case of a trot
or match being proved to their satisfaction to have
been made or conducted improperly or dishonestly on
the part of the principals, they shali have the power to .
declare all bets void.

27. Size of Whips to be Used.—No rider or driver
shall be allowed any other than a reasonable length
of whip, namely, for saddle horses, two feet ten inch-
es; sulky, four feet eight inches; wagon, five feet ten
inches.

28. In Case of Accidents.—In case of accidents, but
five minutes shall be allowed over the time specified.
in Rule No. 10, unless the judges think more time
necessary.

29. Judges’ Stand.—No person shall be allowed in
the judges’ stands but the judges, reporters, and mem-
bers, at the time of trotting.

30. In Case of Death—All engagements are void
upon the decease of eee party “before being deter-
mined.

RECIPES.

The following recipes have been gathered from sources entitled to the full-
est confidence as remedies of great value, and some of them at an unusual
cost; and we present them with the hope of being duly appreciated.

It is well to remember that to keep horses in health is much’ more impor-
tant, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to cure sick ones. Abuse,
overwork, and exposure are to be guarded against, if the serious consequen-
ces of Inflammation of the Lungs, Colic, Founder, &c., are to be avoided ; and
if you have a sick horse, be cautious about doctoring too much until you are
sure of what ought to be done.

For Inflammation of the Lungs.

First bleed thoroughly, then give tinct. veratrum veride, 44 oz; landanum,
4 0Z; tinct. aconite, 144 oz. Shake well, and give a tablespoon half full every $
hours, in a pint of water well sweetened ; and if the pulse is not reduced in a
short time, increase the dose to a spoonfuil until the fever abates. As soon as
the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down naturally, keep him on hay alone,
with a few carrots or potatoes, and daily give a bran mash with salt-petre,
crude antimony and sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent
Dropsy on the Chest, which is a sequel of Inflammation of the Lungs.

For Colic in Horses.

Sulph. ether, 1 pt; aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pt; sweet spirits nitre, 2
pts; opium, ¥/ Ib; assafcedita (pure), 4y tb; camphor, 1 Ib. Put in a large
bottle and let stand from ten to fifteen days. Dose, 2 ounces every two, three,
or four hours, until the horse is relieved. This medicine is a sure cure for
the worst form of Flatulent Colic, if taken in time. It should be given in
sweetened water.

Another Remedy.

For cases not very severe, 1 oz laudanum; 1 oz sweet spirits nitre; 1 oz
tinct. assafcedita ; 1 tablespoonful capsicum ; from 2 to 3 ozs carbonate soda ;
3g pt whisky ; 14 pt water. Mix and give at one dose, and if not better in 30
minutes, repeat half dose. ~

FTeaves.

Take smart-weed, steep in boiling water till you get the strength. Give t
quart a day, mixed with bran or shorts, for eight or ten days. Feed green or
cut feed wet with water during the operation. Only persevere, it will cure.

To Cover Heaves.

Oil of tar, 1 0z; oil amber, 1 oz. Mix and give 15 or 20 drops in feed daily.
Be cautious about watering ; don’t give your horse more than half a bucketful
at a time, and he will not show the heaves while you use this prescription.

Spavin. :

This recipe originally cost two hundred dollars, and is worth the money to
any man who is dealing in horses to any considerable extent. Euphorbium, 5
ozs ; Spanish flies, fine, 2 ozs ; iodine, 1 0z, dissolved with alcohol; red pre-
cipitate, 14 0z; corrosive sublimate, 1 oz ; quicksilver, 1% 0z; hog’s lard, 6
ozs; white turpentine, 6 ozs; verdigris, 14 Ib. Melt the lard and turpentine

together, then while hot, add the others, except the quicksilver, which must
be stirred in as it becomes cool, Mix well. When cold it is fit for use. Rub

RECIPES. 57

it in well on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with soap
suds, and omit for three days; then repeat for three days, and so continue
until a perfect cure is effected. Should it blister, use more cautiously.

A Preparation for Blood Spavin.

One-half pound of blood root; 1 qrt alcohol; 2 ozs tannin; W tb alum.
Mix and let stand, shaking it several times a day till the strength is all in the
alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing with the hand.

For Wind Galls.

Olive oil, 2 ozs; nitric acid, 1 oz. Rub as much in every day, or every
second or third day, as will bear without starting the hair.

For. Stifte.

First take 4 quarts of rasked white oak bark, put into 8 qrts of water and
boil down to 2 qrts, turn off the liquor while hot, and add 1 oz finecut tobacco ;
now let stand until a little above blood heat, then heat a flatiron, or brick,
theu proceed to put the stifle in its place; now bathe thoroughly with the de-
coction about five minutes, then apply the iron or brick as near as the animal
will bear, until absorbed. Then give the animal rest for an hour or two, and
if it should possibly slip out again, repeat as before, taking care of it for a
few days.

Another Remedy.

Take the white of an egg, to which add a large tablespoonful of salt. Mix
and apply every two hours until a cure is produced. We have used this last
remedy ourselves with firstrate success in several cases of stifle, and believe it
in ordinary cases to be as good a remedy as can be got.

Scratches.

Hydrate of potassa, 10 grains; pulverized nutgall, 1% 0z; white lead, 1y oz;
pulverized opium, 1 0z; lard, 14 Ib. Waah with soap suds, rub dry, and
apply night and morning,

Another Remedy.

One quart good vinegar, 14 Ib lethridge, mix and simmer down to half the
quantity, strain and apply.

For Inflamed Swellings or Lame Shoulder.

Equal parts oil amber, oil spike, camphor gum and ether. Should be shaken
well before using, and well rubbed in with the hand.

To Recruit a Horse Hide-bound or Out of Sorts.

Take saltpetre, 4 ozs; crude antimony, 1 0z; sulphur, 2 ozs. The saltpetre
and antimony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur and mix well
together. Dose, tablespoonful of the mixture in bran mash daily.

To Make Magic Liniment.

Take 2 ozs oil spike, 2 ozs origanum, 2 ozs hemlock, 2 0zs wormwood, 4 ozs
swee} oil, 2 ozs spirits ammonia, 2 ozs gum camphor, 3 ozs spirits turpentine,
1 quart proof spirits. Mix well ‘and bottle for use, cork tight. For sprains,
bruises, lameness of any kind, this liniment is unsurpassed. This is the same
liniment, without the turpentine, which has achieved such wonderful cures
for human ailments. No family should be without it.

\

58 RECIPES.

Simple Liniment.

Put into spirits turpentine all the camphor gum it will cut, when, for ordi-
nary purposes, it is fit for use; but if you wish to reduce pain, add as much
laudanum as there is turpentine. The Jiniment is as good as it is simple.

French Paste for Bone Spavin, ( Will Cure).

Corrosive sublimate, quicksilver, and iodine, of each 1 oz, with lard suffi-
cient to form a paste. Rub the quicksilver and iodine together, and add the
sublimate, and finally the lard, rubbing thoroughly. Shave off the hair the
size of the bone enlargement, then grease all around it, but not where the hair
is shaved off. This prevents the action of the medicine only upon the spavin. ~
Rub in as much of the paste as will lie on a five cent piece only, each morning
for four mornings only, and in from six to eight days the spavin will come
out. Then wash out the wound with suds, soaking well for an hour or two,
which removes the poisonous effects of the medicine and facilitates the heal-
ing, which can be done by any healing salve, but I prefer Sloan’s Ointment to

any I know.
Horse Ointment (Said to be Sloan’s).

Resin, 4 ozs; beeswax, 4 0zs; honey, 2 ozs; lard, 8 ozs. Melt these articles
slowly, bringing gradually to a boil, remove from the fire, and slowly add a
little less than a pint of spirits of turpentine, stirring all the time this is being
added, and stir tillcool. This is an extraordinary ointment for bruises of the
flesh, hoof, or broken knees, galls or bites, or when a horse is galded to heal
and keep off flies. It is also good on human flesh.

Condition Powders.

Fenugreek, cream of tartar, gentian, sulphur, saltpetre, resin, black anti-
mony and ginger, of each 1 0z; cayenne, 14 0z; all firmly pulverized; mix
thoroughly. Itis used in Yellow Water, Hide-bound, Colds, Coughs, Distem-
per, and all other diseases where a condition powder is needed. They carry
off gross humors and purify the blood. Dose, in ordinary cases, one table-
spoonful once a day. In extreme cases, give twice daily. This powder has
never failed to give entire satisfaction, and is fast becoming a general favorite
among horsemen.

Liniment for Spavin, Splint, Curbs, &c.

Oils of spike, origanum, cedar, British and spirits of turpentine, of each 1
0Z; Spanish flies, pulverized, 1s oz. Apply once in six or nine days; will
remove the lumps if you follow up the treatment thoroughly.

Ringbone Remedy.

Pulverized cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, cedar, and Barba-
does tar, and British oil, of each 2 ozs; oil of wormwood, 1 0z; spirits of tur-
pentine, 40zs; potash, 4 oz; nitric acid, 6 ozs; oil of vitriol, 4 ozs; lard, 3
lbs. Melt the lard slowly, add the acids, stir well, and add the others, stirring
till cool, Clip off the hair and apply by rubbing and heating in. In about
three days, or when done running, wash off with’suds and apply again, In
recent cases, two or three applications will cure. Old case will take longer.

Poll-Evil and Fistula (Positive Cure).

Common potash, 4% 0z; extract ot belladonna, 144 drachm; gumarabic, 4
0z. Dissolve the gum in as little water as practicable, then, having pulverized
the potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water with it, and it will soon
dissolve, then mix in the extract, and it is ready to use. The best plan to get
this into the pipes is by means of a small syringe, haying cleansed the sore with

RECIPES. * : 59

suds. Repeat once in two days until the callous pipes and hard, fibrous base
around the poll-evil or fistula is completely destroyed. One application has
produced a cure.

Anti-Spasmodic Tincture (for Man or Beast).

Oils of cajuper, cloves, peppermint, annis, of each,1o0z; of alcohol 1 quart.
Mix all together and bottle for use. Dose for horse, 1 oz every 15 minutes ina
little whisky and warm water, sweetened with molasses. Continue until
relieved. Dose for man, one teaspoonful.

Physic Ball.

Barbadoes aloes, 1 tb; syrup buckthorn, 3 ozs; codliver oil, 3 ozs. Melt
the whole, and stir till cold. In winter, add a little water. Make into 18 pills,
2nd give every four hours, or as much as will move the bowels.

Sweeny Liniment.

Aleohol and spirits of turpentine of each 8 ozs; camphor gum, pulverized
eantharides, and tincture of capsicum, of each 1 02; oil of spike, 3 ozs. Bathe
this liniment in with a hot iron, and faithfully follow until a cure is perfected.

Poll-Hvil to Scatter.

Take a quantity of mandrake root, bruise and boil it, strain and boil down
until rather thick, then form an ointment, simmering with sufficient lard for
that purpose. Anoint the swelling once a day for several days until well. It
has cured them after they were broke out by putting it in the pipes a few
fimes; also anointing around the sore.

Nerve and Bone Liniment.

Take beef’s gall, 1 quart; alcohol, 1 pint; volatile liniment, 1 pound (12
ounces), spirits turpentine, 1 pound ; oil of origanum, 4 ozs; aqua ammonia,
41g pint; oil of amber, 3 ozs; tincture of cantharides,6 ozs. Mix. Use too
well known to need description. More particularly applicable to horse flesh.

Hinglish Stable Liniment.

Oil of spike, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentine, of each 2 ozs; sweet oil
and oil of amber, of each 134 ozs; oil of origanum, 1o0z. Mix. Call this good
for anything, and always keep it in the stable as a strong liniment. It is good
for Poll-Evils, Ring-Bones, and all old lameness, inflammations, &c. If much
inflammation, however, it will fetch the hair, but not destroy it.

Diuretic Drops.

These drops are reliable for Stoppage of Water, Foul Water, or Inflamma-
tion of the Kidneys, in all cases. Take, sweet spirits of nitre, 4 ozs; balsam
copaiba, 2 ozs; oil of juniper, 2 ozs; spirits of turpentine, 2 ozs; gum cam-
phor, pulverized, 1 oz. Mix all together and shake well, bottle and it is fit for
use for man or beast under all circumstances where a diuretic is required.
Dose for horse: 1 oz in one-half pint of milk once in six hours. For man:
one teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of milk once in six hours. Besure to shake
the ingredient up well before pouring out for use.

To Cure Horse Distemper.

Tf the glands of the neck are not swollen much, give half a three cent paper
of smoking tobacco morning and evening in warm bran mash, and give no
tame hay, but a little fine prairie hay moistened with weak brine. If the
glands of the neck areswollen, apply a warm poultice of wheat bran and
hashed pork wet with hot vinegar, changing as often as the poultice gets dry,and

60 ® RECIPES.

get down all the flax-seed or slippery-elm tea that you can. Let this be his
constant drink. Be cautious to keep the horse from taking cold in any way,
and never bleed during the horse distemper, or physic your horse any more
than you will be able to do with the bran mash,

Remedy for Botts.
Take oil of turpentine, 8 ozs; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use,

Dose, 4 to 5 ozs in the horse’s feed once a day for eight days. Will effectually
remove the last vestige of botts.

Founder Remedy.

Draw about one galion of blood from the neck, then drench with linseed oil
1 quart; now rub the fore legs with water as hot as can be borne without
scalding, continuing the washing an hour or more—or until the horse is per-

fectly limber.
Hoof Liniment for Contracted Hoof.

Venice turpentine, 1s pint ; aqua ammonia, 2 ozs; salts of nitre, 1 0z; ben-
zone, 1 0z; alcohol, 30zs. Apply at the edge of the hair an@ to the hoof
twice a day for the first three days, once a day for the next three days after
that, and once in two, three, or four days, as may be required.

Greast Heel.

One teaspoonful of alum, saleratus, saltpetre, equal parts of each in a
pint of water.
Horse Liniments.

Aqua ammonia, 2 0zs; olive oil, ¢ pint; landanum, 4 ozs; alcohol, 1 pint;
turpentine, 2 ozs; gum camphor, 1 oz,

Turpentine, 1 0z; camphor, % oz: laudanum, 1 oz; alcohol, 1 oz; aqua
ammonia, 1 oz, .