"FEN AND IMPROVED SISTEM

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EDUCATING THE HORSE,

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NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM

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EDUCATING THE HORSE.

A TREATISE ON SHOEING,

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| RECIPES FOR DISEASES OF HORSES.

* TOGETHER WITH

THE RULES OF THE UNION COURSE.

NEW YORK:
FRANK M. REED, PUBLISHER.

Good Books Mailed on Receipt of Price.

GRIM CARE, anxiety, moroseness, all this rust of life, ought
to be scoured off by the oil of mirth. It is better than emery. Every
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by every pebble over which it runs. Therefore, whenever the opportu-
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do at any time, on short notice, by sending for the following two books :

LAUGHINC GAS:

A Repository of Fun, Wit, and Humor. Containing the richest Comical
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it contains the merriest thoughts of the merriest men. Mailed for 25 cents.

SALT, PEPPER AND MUSTARD;
Or, Spice for the Million.

The latest, greatest, and funniest of all “phunny” books. Everybody
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Address FRANK M. REED,
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THIS BOOK 18
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by
FRANK M. REED, (~.
‘In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

yi Hed is Sis BA ha ay

Tue animal creation is said to represent the extremes and modifica-
tions of man’s nature; the domestic animals his moral nature, and the
wild animals the lower or animal part. The horse unquestionably stands
at the head of the domestic animals, possessing not only the closest
relation of character, but is by far the noblest and most valuable of all
the domestic animals ; and a knowledge of the principles ofhis success-
ful education and government is not only one of the most interesting,
but important qualifications of a practical education.

Every relation of life is so dependent upon the use of horses, and their
value and safety is so much regulated by their good character and the
ease with which they are made obedient to control, that the considera-

' tions of both happiness and success make it necessary that their

education and government should be dictated by reason and humanity.
Common experience teaches how great an effect good or bad treatment
has in the influence of character upon man and woman. Ignorance and
vice beget coarseness and viciousness, while gentle, intelligent, moral
training develops the opposite—intelligence and the nobility of charac-

ter; the reason or understanding being the medium through which the

action of the different parts of the nature are made subordinate to the
will, when skillfully and wisely acted upon; but when from ignorance or
imprudenee, they are excited and roused into resistance, the mind, ever
understanding the intention, is neutralized and subverted in its action,
and hostility exciting the animal’s nature becomes developed, resulting
in more or less of the vices common to life.

The inability of the horse to comprehend language, in conjunction
with the low order of his understanding and his extreme strength, makes
him more liable to become both vicious and uncontrollable. Unable to
comprehend the object of restraint, confused and excited by bad treat-
ment, he is prompted to get away at all hazards.

The colt is usually driven from the field, haltered by main force, after
which he is harnessed and hitched -by the side of a gentle horse; is

6 THE HORSE.

frightened and irritated perhaps to madness. He strives to go ahead,
and, being too quick for the older horse, is jerked back by the bit. He
thinks he-cannot go ahead, and is afraid to do so; and not understand-
ing the meaning of the bit, harness or horse talk, when told to go he
does not obey. He is now shouted at.and beaten because he does not
go when commanded. He may make another more desperate plunge to
go forward, becomes regardless of the bit and runs away, or is stopped
after being exhausted from fright and exertion, and is made a nervous,
impulsive, unreliable brute; or he may rear up, throw himself down,
and become stubborn and baulky. Colts of a moderate disposition, if
poorly kept and worked regularly, may in time become quite safe and
useful horses; but those of high courage and spirit are almost sure to
have fastened upon them one or more of the many bad habits, making
horses unreliable or dangerous in character.

The horse when frightened strives to avoid the cause of danger,
whether real or imaginary. The more unexpected, the greater and
more lasting the sense of danger, to a degree that may act so powerfully
upon the nervous system as to fix an impression of fear which it is diffi-
cult to overcome. Resistance once excited, the difficulty of successful
restraint is increased; the horse learning the possibility of resisting
contro}, the disposition becomes so strong it at once becomes a habit to
persist in, and all the great energies of the animal are brought into
requisition. No matter what the habit, this peculiarity of persistence is
evinced when once learned. A weak halter broken once or twice, the
horse will strive to pull loose at all hazards, when and where hitched,
the foot is pulled away when attempted to be shod, and the habit be-
comes confirmed. Some minor part of the harness or wagon breaking,
fear stimulates resistance, and once freeing himself, the horse will ever
afterwards strive to get away under like circumstances. The same may
be said of a vicious disposition. A stallion once encouraged to bite,
a elena to do so, leads to an eager disposition to bite ever after-
wards.

It is not only important to address the understanding correctly, but it
is also absolutely necessary to success, since causes of confusion and
excitement not only make the animal unable to understand, but stimu-
late a hostile disposition, which tends directly to neutralize and destroy
the success of the efforts.

Blended with the skill of showing and teaching the horse a knowledge
of what is required, is that of forcing obedience. This was at first done
by the rudest of coercive measures. The first account we have of any
horse being successfully subdued is that of young Alexander adroitly
mounting and fearlessly riding a certain wild, unmanageable horse, which

THE HORSE. 7

occurred about three hundred years before the Christian era. This prin-
ciple of subjection, with slight variation, is still practised by the Indians
of our Western plains, the Mexicans, Australians, and many Savage aud
semi-civilized people in different portions of the globe.

Catching their horses with the lasso, the Indians mount and ride un-
til from exhaustion and fatigue the animal becomes unable to resist.
After thus forcing submission, it is a practice among the Brazilians to
cut off the ends of the hair of the tail, to indicate they are broken, and
again turn them loose. The Chilians tie the refractory horse in a stall,
and whip him until he lies down in despair, or falls from weakness. He
is then tried, and if still refractory, the process is continued until he
“becomes gentle.

The effects of rude treatment are particularly noticeable on horses
of a sensitive, ambitious character. Such either fret or are dangerous,
when subject to the management of an impulsive, irritable groom, though
extremely docile and safe to a careful, patient person.

The great extremes of disposition and character in horses, show a
peculiar adaptation for different purposes and requirements. The slow,
dull, coarse-grained horse, naturally adapted for the cart or plough, can-
not bear the active exertion necessary to great speed, while those of a
higher or ambitious spirit would scarcely submit to this slow drudgery.

These extremes illustrate equally well the marked peculiarities of
disposition and character. Hence the necessity of harmonizing the
efforts to the disposition and intelligence as wellas that of habit. A high
spirited horse would not bear the excitement and force, as that of a
slower and less excitable disposition. There are frequently evinced re-
markable extremes of disposition in equine character. I have found
during my professional experience a number of naturally so wild and
untamable a character that they would scarcely act like horses, unable
to learn, and unwilling to yield to the most careful and thorough treat-
ment. It is needless to add, exceptions of this character are usually
developed by some great cause of fear or excitement upon the mare
during gestation. It is also a well known fact, that if a stallion, even
of-a docile character, is excited and maddened at the time of using,
the colt is almost certain to prove of a bad, irritable and treacherous
disposition. Want of brain, or the extreme development of a hostile
nature are to be regarded as exceptions, the management of which is
not to be considered a rule for the education of those of an average
character. The consciousness of power to inflict bodily punishment,
destroy or preserve life, is the law of supremacy among the lower ani-
mals, and the fearless confidence indicating this power has a great in-
fluence in preventing the development of a hostile disposition, When

8 THE HORSE.

one animal finds himself unexpectedly in the presence of another fierce,
powerful one, he rushes to the conflict or retreats in haste. But when
he confronts a man, who knows that his safety depends upon his stand-
ing unmoved, or who relies upon the use of some weapon of defence, he is
disconcerted and discouraged at his boldness, and will usually retreat in
fear. No animal has a keener intuition of the feelings, or is more easily en-
couraged to viciousness by the indication of fear, or more forcibly held
in check by a fearless, confident expression of manuer, than the horse.
It is not, however, to be inferred that, “‘not being afraid” of a horse is
by any means to be construed into foolhardiness. Courage and confi-
dence should be dictated by the danger shown, The expression of the
eye, action of the ears, lips, etc., indicate clearly the intentions, dictat-*
ing the hazard to be incurred. Whatever be the feelings, great stolid-
ness of expression and action is indispensable, . w

This not only aids in keeping resistance in check, but under some
circumstances may be the means of preserving life. -

The control of horses is like that of an intricate but powerful ma-
chine when under the subjection of skillful management. A machine
has a part by the control of which it is made obedient to almost the
slightest touch, and there are minor parts the derangement of which
would destroy the usefulness of the whole. This, for example, is illus-
trated in the steam engine. All its parts must harmonize, and the right
head of steam must be maintained to ensure working easily and with cer-
tainty. The principle is the same regarding the successful management
of horses.” If horses be subjected to skillful and prudent management,
they will easily be made docile and controllable. On the other hand,
subjected to rude, imprydent treatment, they are at once liable to be-
come unreliable, hostile and impulsive brutes. f

The generous reward of this skill should be an incentive to every one
to acquire a correct knowledge of this duty. That there is great loss,
and lamentable accidents caused almost daily in every neighborhood
from the use of horses that are dangerously vicious and unmanageable,
cannot be questioned. One horse will run away if given the least free-
dom. Another is liable to kick himself clear from the wagon should a
strap dangle against the flanks, the breeching break, or anything unusual
occur to excite his fears.

One horse will baulk. Another goes when and where he pleases, An-
other can scarcely be harnessed with safety. Another will kick if the
rein touches the hip, or is caught under the tail. One will not stand
while heing mounted, or while getting into the carriage. Another will
not back. Others are frightened, and sheer and jump at a stone, stump ~
or a white cow. One horse cannot be driven by a load of hay, a rail-

THE HORSE.’ nig

road track, etc., etc. While to others an umbrella, buffalo robe, or even
a bit of white paper are terrible objects of fear. There are but very
few even of the horses that are considered well broken, that have not
some habit that makes them unpleasant, or greatly lessens their useful-
ness and value.

The loss occasioned and injury sustained by imprudence and defective
training is almost beyond description, and above almost all other causes,
is the source of a degree of anxiety and misery, the most hopeful view
of which must be regarded as lamentable. At least nine-tenths of this
loss and annoyance can be prevented if my instructions are faithfully
adhered to. It is seen how easily I make the worst of horses yield to
my control, and if my principles of management are observed in prac-
tice success must follow.

The consciousness of contributing to ameliorating the condition and
increasing the value for safety and usefulness of the most noble and val-
uable of the domestic animals, is of itselfa most generous reward. If
he who teaches how to grow two blades of grass where but one was pro-
duced, is a benefactor, he who invents or improves machinéry by which
labor is lessened, and its effectiveness increased, not only adds to indi-
vidual but that of the national wealth, and merits the reward of success.
Yet how much more valuable and gratifying the consciousness of increas-
ing the safety and value of an animal necessity compels the use of,
under circumstances involving great peril, if not made gentle and safe
to the command of its driver.

Well broken horses are a necessity demanded by the progress and intel-
ligence of the age, and that the barbarous brutalizing custom of pound-
ing and whipping, regardless of consequences, should be abolished. The
consciousness of ability to make horses more safe and valuable is sup-
planted by the conviction that this success is due to the prudence and
skill, dependent upon the exercises of the reason stimulated and
encouraged by the action of all the higher faculties of the mind.

The genius by which the real point of success is brought to view,
excites the feelings to a keener sense of the relation and responsibility,
from the attitude of which a more grateful and hopeful conviction of
responsibility is forced with constantly increased beauty upon the mind.

In its true sense the management of horses is in every way calculated
to strengthen the mind and ennoble the character. This being true,
what more desirable accomplishments than a knowledge of this science,
which contributes so largely to the success and pleasure of life ?

There are numerous charlatans before the public, professing to edu- -
cate and train the horse, who are perfectly ignorant of the first rudi-
ments of the science of their profession. .

10 THE HORSE.

Necessity compels me to mention the fact that in consequence of the
-yarious deceptions practised upon those interested in horses, many are
inclined to turn the cold shoulder. :

I have now been upwards of eleven years before the public, and am
professionally known, both North and South, as the most successful and
practical teacher of this science.

THE GREAT SECRET OF HORSE TAMING.

The great secret of taming horses is, first, to get control of them.
This must be by fear. They must be taught or shown that ‘man is ©
master,” that what he desires to do with them he can do.

In this regard, nothing in my experience, nor, I believe, in any of the
tamers who have preceded me, of whom John 8. Rarey is the most
known, is more effective than the throwing of the horse. Nothing so
completely disgusts him, so to speak, as to thus convince him that he
cannot do as he pleases, but that he must submit to the master. Hav-
ing been thoroughly convinced that he is under control, that his move-
ments are entirely under control, he reasons that he had better give up.

Here let me give my pupil a few words of caution. Never let the
horse perceive that you are angry ; try patiently to subdue the animal,
but never by beating, and particularly by striking upon or about the
head. He who first aspires to govern must first govern himself. Noth-
ing is more fatal to the attempt at government of men or animals than
outbursts of passion andrage. If you feel your temper getting the best
of you, leave the task for the time, or you will only still more enrage,
frighten and bewilder the horse, and so render hopeless the controlling
intelligently, for the time, of the animal.

How to Throw the Horse.

_ Place upon theanimal a strong surcingle (leather I use, though a com-
bination of the braided hair girth of the Mexicans would be preferable)
about three inches back of the fore legs; connected with this must be a
strong crupper. There must be a strong ring about one inch in diame-
ter at the top of thesurcingle.in the centre of the back, and another upon
the right side in the centre. This being adjusted, proceed to strap up
the left fore leg as follows: Take a common quarter strap, pass it two
or three times around the leg between the coffin and pastern joints, and
then buckle the leg closely up to the belly.

Now place around the horse’s neck a 1-4-inch rope, or 38-8, loosely,
fixing the knot sg it will not slip; bring the end down the side of the

THE WILD COLT. 11

head on to the left side, pass it through the horse’s mouth round the
right side and through either of the two rings in the surcingle, the one
_in the centre of the side, if the first time, will give you greater control
with less exertion. Upon pulling upon the rope, standing in any posi-
tion, the horse must come upon his side and without injury. I have
thrown thousands and never knew one hurt. In practice, all will per-
ceive the decided advantage over the Rarey process. The operation
must be repeated from ten to twenty times, or until the horse seems
entirely disgusted with the controversy. This operation, if properly
conducted, will have resulted in the obtaining control of the horse and
in his willingness to be accommodating at least.

The next thing is to teach him the meaning of the word whoa, and
obey it when spoken to himasa command. This also breaks him to
the bridle. Place in his mouth the scissors or W bit, with headstall and
lines attached (an ordinary bit will do, though the one named is prefer-
able as being more secure). Now let the horse walk off a few feet (ten
or twenty), and all at once jerk with all your force, accompanying the
action with the word whoa. This repeated a score of times will teach
the horse lastingly the word and the meaning. You must speak the
word whoa just before you pull. This command to the horse must be
repeated if at any time he grows restive and seems indisposed to obey
the command whoa; though an occasional jerk while driving, preceded
by the word whoa, with any ordinary bit, will keep the horse in remem-
brance.

This is also effectual in breaking up the habit of kicking and running
away. You must be severe with this; it is easily learned to the horse,
and is most effectual in preventing accidents. It is by this process of
teaching that I learn horses to drive without headstall or bridle.

THE WILD COLT.

As the training of the horse must be based upon the observance of
those principles of his nature requiring the exercise of his reason in
everything forced upon his attention, and of conveying to his under-
standing most clearly what is required of him, it is advisable to com-
mence our lesson on the management of the horse by explaining how
to proceed with the Wild Colt. The first step to be taken is to see that
the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the colt is unoccu-
pied by anything which will distract the attention of the colt, for
instance, fowls and dumestic animals, etc., and all persons except the one
who is to undertake the training. This latter precaution should be taken
for the reason that the presence of other parties would annoy the

12 THE HORSE,

colt. Also that by allowing them to be present you would violate the
conditions of your instructions.

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt into his training
place as carefully as possible, using such gentlemeans as may be con-
venient and most likely to be successful without exciting the colt.

Every farmer or person at all acquainted with the management of
horses, knows well enough how to do this in his own way without being
governed by any fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to

Halter-break the Coit.

' As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the restraint of the
enclosure, go cautiously and slowly towards him, making no demonstra-
tions at all, but talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does not
understand your language, and your presence may attract his attention.
If he begins to walk away from you, stop, but continue your talking or
singing, and appear as careless as you can. about his presence, until he
becomes quiet again. Then start again and leisurely approach him as
before, and so repeat, as circumstances require, until you are close
enough to touch his withers, or permit him to smell of your hand, should
he seem so disposed. Remember, you must be patient and gentle in
all your actions. Now touch him on the withers gently, and gradually
win his confidence, so that you can handle and rub him on the neck or
head. Do not try to hold him or impose .the least restraint; that
would cause him to become excited and afraid of you.

Handle the colt in this way until he becomes reconciled to your pres-
ence, and will suffer you to scratch him as you please.

Now step back and take your halter quietly. The halter should be
of leather. Rope halters are irritable to young horses; they are so
harsh that they hurt the head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt the
colt will naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and the more it
will hurt, because the tighter and harder it will pinch, which will
frighten him the more, and he will try to free himself at all hazards
until he pulls himself down or breaks the halter. In that case his
experience would have been a bad one, for you would have learned him
to be a halter puller. You hold the halter in the left hand, having un-
buckled it, and approach the colt slowly ; don't be ina hurry; give him
time to smell and examine every part in his own way. While he is ex-
amiming the halter, caress and rub him; it will further your efforts greatly
to give the colt something he likes, such as apples, oats, corn, salt, ete.,
that you can get hold of handily. Then take hold of the long strap
which goes over the head with the right hand and carry it under his

TO HALTER-BREAK A WILD COLT. 13

neck, while you reach the left hand over the neck and grasp the end of
this long strap; then lower the halter just enough to get his nose into
the nose piece, then raise it up to its proper place and buckle.

This is the best method to halter a colt, and in cases of wild ones, per-
severance and patience is required, always being careful not to become
excited or angry, for in that case the colt will show a great deal more
resistance, which, in the end, and at a great loss of time, you will have

to overcome.
Hitching. Colt in Stall.

Two principles are involved in controlling and teaching the horse to
submit to the restraint of the halter while hitched. Prepare your stall,
which should be about four or five feet wide, by attaching a rope so as
to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike the hind parts; or
you can bore holes through so as to put a pole in the same manner as a
rope. Now tie the halter long enough so that if the colt attempts to
go back he will strike the rope or pole across behind him, before he can
feel the restraint of the halter. You should in this, as in everything
else you attempt, teach your colt to be gentle. In every case you
should untie the halter before taking down the rope or pole. Another
method :—Takea half-inch rope, place under the tail, cross on the back,
bring forward and tie under the neck or the breast; then pass the halter
strap through the ring of the manger and tie to the rope, so when the
horse pulls he will be punished, and the impression will be made stronger
than the above.

To Halter-break a Wild Colt.

First, provide yourself with alittle pole about ten or twelve feet long ;
cut a notch in one end with your pocket-knife, and about seven inches
from this end, drive a nail in, the head bent a little towards the end
having no notch. Next, you want a gocd half-inch manilla rope, about
thirty feet, with a slip-noose in one end, and a knot in the rope about
twenty inches from the end with the noose, so that it will not draw so
tight as to choke the colt down, but will allow the noose to draw tight
enough to shut off his wind, so as to prevent him from making a very
obstinate resistance. Now get a short breast strap, or a long hame strap
willdo. This put into your pocket, convenient to the right hand, for
future use. Now approach the colt slowly and carefully as before de-
scribed, remembering that all persons must be excluded. When you
succeed in approaching to within four or six feet of the shoulders,
retreat slowly as before, and take your stick all ready prepared, holding

14 . THE HORSE.

the notched end from you and swinging it very gently a little to the
right and left ina horizontal position. . This is a new object of fear to the
colt, and will be regarded with a great deal of saspicion. However, a
little patience will soon enable you to get so neay the colt that you can
hold your stick gently over the back and shoulders. Then grad-
ually lower it, moving gently as before till you ¢an place your hand on
his neck. As this is borne let it drop a little lower until it rests upon
the mane. Now commence scratching the neck with the stick, gently
but firmly. This will please the colt and cause him to stand quiet.
While scratching with your stick in this way, slide your right hand
slowly and cautiously along its surface until you get to the mane, when
you scratch with the hand in the place of the stick. All this is proving
to the colt that you will not hurt him; in fact you please, and hence he
submits quietly. Now step back quietly to where your rope is and take
the noose and place it on the stick, letting it rest on the stick, and be-
tween the nails or shavings, with the main part of the noose hanging be-
low the stick, and large enough so as to be slipped over the head easily
while you keep the other.end of the rope in the hand with the stick.
Your halter or noose now hangs upon your stick, so spread that you
can slip it over the colt’s head without touching a hair. Your halter
arranged, holding it before you swinging upon the stick, you approach
the colt in the same cautious manner as before until you bring if to the
nose. This being a new object of fear to the colt, he will smell of it
cautiously. While he is smelling it youare gradually raising it over his
head, so gently he does not feel or care about it until you get it well
back of the ears, then turn your stick, and your noose will drop on his
neck. If he does not start, take the slack in your rope gently, at the
same time approach his shoulders cautiously and rub him gently, if he
will allow it.

If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the rope. If he
tries very hard to get away he soon finds himself out of wind caused |
by the pressure of the rope about the neck, consequently he will offer
but little resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to him
just as you please. Now you should use him gently.

As soon as he will allow you to approach, loosen the noose from his
neck, and by kind words and caresses let him know you do not wish to
hurt him. Keep on caressing him till he will allow you to rub his neck
and ears. Encourage him by feeding from your hand something that
he likes. When he submits so far as to let you handle his head and
neck, take the other end of the rope and tie a round, hard knot in the
end, and another knot about twenty-five inches from the end.

This knot should be left slack. ~Now take the end of the cord in the left

TO HALTER-BREAK A COLT. a IP

hand and carry it under the neck to the opposite side, while you reach
over with the right hand and take it and bring it over the top of the
neck again. Now put the knot in the end of the cord through the other
and secure by drawinz as tight as possible. Now make a loop by draw-
ing it up as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing a double
of the slack rope unde: the rope around the neck. Make the loop long
enough to slip into the 2olt’s mouth, which can be done easily by gently
insisting on his confidence. A green colt is not bad about taking any-
thing in his mouth if you use judgment and do not frighten him. Slip
this loop well up above the bridle teeth, and place the lip well over the
jaw, under the roof. Now draw upon your loop and take the noose you
first had about the neck off entirely. You now take hold of the end of
the cord. You will find you have a means of power in your hands that
makes the strongest horse almost a plaything. And we claim the Co-
manche bridle, and its value in managing and training colts, cannot be
over-estimated when used with judgment and handled with adroitness
and skill. It should never be used so harshly as to excite extreme pain
and yet with a touch that causes a fear of resistance. You now have
your Comanche bridle, and can control the colt almost at will. If he
should endeavor to run away from you, give him a quick, sharp jerk,
and at the same time say ho, and repeat as often as he may make the
attempt to get away. When he stops go up to him and caress him
about the neck and head.

When he gives up to the rope enough so that he does not try to get
away, then proceed to Jearn him to lead. With your rope in hand step
back to his side, opposite his hips, and say, ‘Come here,” at the same
time giving him a sharp pull on the halter. He will swing around to-
wards you, and if he only takes one step in the right direction let him
know that that was what you wanted. To make him understand that
he has done right, go up to him, speak kindly to him, and call him by
name, at the same time petting and caressing with the hand.

Then walk around on the opposite side and repeat. Encourage him
for every step taken in the right direction by caressing and kind words,
and in a very short time he will come to you at the word, and follow
you around like a dog. If the colt is wilful and stubborn, handle him
with the Comanche bridle until he will stand quietly, then take your
strap, previously provided, in the right hand, holding by the buckle.

Now commence raising gently the foot next to you. If he resists
your efforts, reprove him with the halter, and keep on rubbing and
caressing the leg till you can take the foot in your hand, then slip the
strap around below the fetlock, putting the end through the keeper on
the inside of the buckle ; draw it up tight so thatit will not slip up, then

16 THE HORSE.

pass the strap around the arm from the inside of the Jeg, and bring
over to the outside, and buckle. By putting himjon three legs he can
offer but little resistance when pulled by the heaf sideways, and as he
does not reason, will come around as readily with his legs free as he
will on three. Now step back on a line with thé hips, holding the hal-
ter firmly and say, ‘Come here.”’ He of cours does not obey ; so you
pull on the bridle and he is obliged to swing around to you. Now step
to the other side and repeat ;. bring him around by the halter each time
until, when he hears the words, come here, hewwill obey readily.

As soon as the colt submits to this step, renove the strap from off
the leg and rub the foot gently where the strip has been. Now step
back sideways, and as before, say, ‘‘Come here” If he does not come
readily, give him a sharp pull with the rope, which shows him that you
can handle him as well on four legs as you can on three. Now if he
moves a little to obey, caress him, and so okie until he will follow

you readily.
How to Handle a Colt’s Feet.

After breaking the colt to lead well, caress and rub him on the shoul-
ders as at first, and as soon as he will bear, work down the withers and
leg; then lift lightly on the foot; if itis submitted to, rub it quickly and
smoothly a few seconds, then put it down and take it again, and socon-
tinue until you can handle the foot as you please.

The main point for you to consider is, that you are to make the colt
understand that you will not hurt him, and to do this you must be
gentle. Now place your hand on the shoulder and run it back over the
side and hips softly and quickly; handle every part thoroughly as you
work along towards the leg, and as the colt will bear, work the hands
around the leg until you reach the foot. If there is no resistance after,
lift up a little, and if there is no resistance after letting it down, rub
gently a little more; repeat each time, lifting it up a little higher, until
you can take it up and handle it just as you please. Should he, how-
ever, resist, and jerk his foot away from you, you must resort to means
to make him understand that resistance is out of the question.

In endeavoring to manage and control your colt, you should have
your Comanche bridle on as before described. Now take the long rope
that you hold in your hand and put it around over the front teeth of
the upper jaw, and under the upper lip, carry it around over the top of
the head, bringing the end down through the halter loop on the under
jaw. Now take the end of the rope in your left hand and proceed as
before to handle his legs and feet. If he stands quietly, use him gently,
but if he should resist, correct him with your rope, by which you can

HOW TO BIT A COLT AND MAKE A BRIDLE. rT

inflict so severe a punishment that he will submit in a very short time,
and allow you to handle his legs just as you please. Persevere until
you can hold the foot in your hand, moving it gently and caressing the
leg until he gets over the fear inspired by the use of the cord under the
lip. If more thorough treatment is necessary, see ‘“‘ Proper Manage-
ment of Horses bad to shoe.”

How to Bit a Colt and Make a Bridle.

Take your Comanche bridle, made exactly as before described, with
the exception of the loop that goes around the neck: that should be
made large enough to fit over the neck rather tightly where the collar
is worn, Now bring your cord through the mouth from the off side,
and bring back on the near, through the loop around the neck; now
pull upon this cord and the head will be drawn back to the breast, tie
with a bow-knot and draw down close, so that should the colt show
signs of rearing backwards, with one short jerk you can relieve him,
while, should he go over backward with the restraint on his neck he
would be likely to injure himself. _

You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a little,
which will draw the head back slightly ; after holding for a short time,
render loose; then draw a little tighter, and repeat for four or five
minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future time.

The great secret not only in bitting but of training the young horse
in any manner is in not confusing or exciting him to resistance by
training too long. When your colt yields readily to the bit, you can
check the head to suit. Making the check-rein rather tight causes the
head to be carried high, while the delicacy given the mouth will prevent
the nose being thrown forward. This method of bitting may be re-
garded with little favor by those not understanding its effects, but all
we have further to say on the subject is, give it a fair trial. Teach your
colt to be perfectly submissive to your handling in every manner; to
lead well, and back freely at the word. You are now ready for the
next step in his training, which is usually driving in harness.

Breaking Colts to Harness.

Put.on your harness carefully, which should be made to fit well, and
great care should be used in having it safe and strong in every respect.
Do not be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten harness, or hitch
to an old, rotten wagon, as such are liable to give way at any time.
Many of the accidents causing horses to become subject to bad habits

18 THE HORSE.

are the results of such imprudence. Let every step be made sure.
Work safe and you are sure to bring about a good result. of

With your harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he becomes
somewhat used to the presence and pressure of the different parts, and
will allow you to rattle them about without his caring forthem. Now
lead him around for a short time, and as soon as he appears quiet, check
him up loosely and take down the reins and drive him around the yard.
When he becomes familiar with the harness, check and reins, and will
stop and start at the word, and drive around to the right or left, you ~
can drive him about the street with safety, though in making this step
put on the Comanche bridle for safety. You should then drive to sulky.
We prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt see and examine every part of
the sulky, until he cares nothing about it; then draw forth a few times,
then attach the harness. Before starting him, back him up against the
cross-bar of the shafts. If he should act frightened speak to him calmly
but firmly, at the same time holding your reins firmly so as to prevent
him from swinging around, if he should try. Then go te him and rub
and caress him until he gets over his excitement. Then run the sulky
up against his haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle words
until you can shove the sulky against him just as you please and he not
care anything about it. Now you can get into your seat and drive him
around wherever you choose without danger. Let him go slow at first,
until he becomes familiarized with the objects that are new to him along
the road, as he is not as liable to become frightened while going slow as

when driven fast. ;
Objects of Fear.

In driving, be careful about using the whip too freely. If a stone or
a stump, or anything of the kind, should be regarded with fear, do not
whip and drive the horse by. Let him stand a short time and look at
the object until he seems careless about it, then drive closer, as he will
bear, and so repeat, at the same time talking to him encouragingly until
you can drive him up to the object. Be very sure to have your colt
comprehend fully that such: objects are harmless—as opportunity offers
in this way—and he will soon become so fearless and confident as to be
regardless of such things; but if you whip him for becoming frightened
at such things, he will associate the punishment with the object of his
fright, and be more frightened the next time he sees it. .

The horse being unable to reason only from his experience, you should
convince him by careful examination that the object is harmless. For
example: if the sight or ‘smell of a robe a few feet distant should
frighten him, put on your Comanche bridle and take him alone into

DRIVING A COLT LN HARNESS. 19

your yard or barn, lead him gently to the robe, let him smell of it if he
will, then take it in your hand, hold it gently to his nose, then rub it
against his neck, side, and oyer his back, and so repeat for a short time.
After being familiarized to it in this way, you can throw it over his back
or tie 1t to his tail without causing him the least fear.

To familiarize a colt with any article that he may have regarded with
fear, let him touch it with his nose, and rub him on the neck and side,
and in a short time, when he finds it will not hurt him, he will become
reconciled and care nothing about it.

To.accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to them, let him
smell of them, and even put his nose on them, and in this way continue
until he becomes familiar with them. And then do not fail to repeat
your lessons until he cares nothing about the object. Should you fail.
by neglect, it may render him worse than as though you had done noth-
ing with him.

Driving a Colt in Harness.

_ When your horse drives well before a sulky then you may hitch him
to a light wagon or by the side of a broke horse, and if you are break-
ing him for a farm or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradually in-
crease his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability without
comprehending that he has the power to do otherwise. After your
horse is sufficiently broke to the harness, you’ can either allow him to
carry his head as nature may dictate, or by the proper use of the check
rein bring his head and neck into such position of style as his form and
temper will bear, or your fancy dictate. In teaching your young
horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot.
Although your colt may be old enough to learn how to move well and
perhaps drive gently as an older horse, he is not old enough to perform
the work of an older horse, fully matured. Require but little at first,
gradually increasing as he develops in strength and hardens in gait.
Care should be taken to keep each pace clear and distinct from each
other. While walking he should be made to walk, and not allowed to
trot. While trotting, as in walking, care should be taken that he keeps
steady at his pace and not allowed to slack into a walk. When occa-
sionally pushed to his extreme speed in trot, he should be kept up to
it only for a few minutes at a time, oradually requiring more as he be-
comes practised and capable of endurance; and whenever he has done
well he should be permitted to walk a short time, and encouraged by
a kind word. Under no circumstances should what is termed “his
bottom” be tried and overdone.

The reins while driving should be kept snug, and when pushing him

99 THE HORSE.

to the top of his speed, keep him well in hand that he may learn to bear
well on the bit, as it is by means of the reins mainly that the horse,
when going ata high rate of speed, is kept steady in his pace. But
while you should teach your horse to drive well to the pressure of the
bit, be careful not to give him the habit of pulling too hard, for then he
becomes not only unpleasant but difficult to manage. Theart of draw-
ing well cannot be taught by any written instructions. Practice and
ingenuity in this respect can alone make a skillful horseman. Always
strive to encourage and not overdrive your horse, and be careful not to
whip only for merited reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will
cause the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears any unusual
movement of it, or at any mishap that may occur.

To Train a Horse to Stand when getting into a Carriage.

Take your horse and lead him on the barn floor; place him in the
position you wish him and say “ ho.” The object of this lesson is to teach
him the word ‘‘ ho,” the most important word in horsemanship. You
will proceed by stepping away from him, and if he appears to trifle and
not heed you use the Comanche bridle, pulling upon him, to warn him
to attend to you. Practice this until he will allow you to walk away in
any direction without moving himself. Takea whip and crack it slightly,
and if he moves put him back as before, increasing the cracks of the
whip until you accustom him to stand while the whip i is being flourished,
and also to throw him and apply the method of controlling a nervous
horse. If you are obliged to drive him while you are trying to break
him, do not use the word “ho,” as he is not yet accustomed to minding
it, and it will only make matters worse. Shift the position of the horse
and repeat the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to places where
he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and teach him to stand in those
places, as well as teaching him to obey the word “ ho”’ before hitching
him to the carriage. Then hitch inside a building with the door closed.
Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the thills and shake the carriage,
causing him to stand, by means heretofore alluded to. If it appears
that the habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him, take him
out of the thills and lead him around it, allowing him to examine it, and
even eat oats out of a measure set in the carriage. Now take him out
of doors, and if he renews his attempt to start take him out of the thills
and use the Comanche bridle, fetching him back between the thills, and
say ‘‘ ho.” You will by this means soon teach him that “ ho” means
for him to stop and stand. For the sake of not undoing all you have

: HOW TO THROW A HORSE. 21
done, remember the caution heretofore given to say “ho” only when
you mean to stop.

Horses Bauitking.

This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the horse is
subject ; it tries the patience of man to the utmost; yet by patience
and perseverance, with proper management, even this habit can be
broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which is not a good one.
They are usually very high spirited, quick of comprehension and of a
strong nervous temperament. They resist because we have failed to
make them understand what we require of them, or it may occur from
overloading, sore shoulders or working until tired out. Particularly is
this the case with young animals. To whip under such circumstances
only excites them to more determined resistance. On the first attempt
of your horse to baulk, get out of the wagon, pat him upon the neck,
examine the harness carefully, first upon one side, then upon the other,
speaking encouragingly to the animal while doing so; then jump in the
wagon and give the word to go; generally he will obey ; if he refuses
to do so, take him out of the thills, put up the traces so that they do
not drag upon the ground, then take him by the head and tail, reel him
until he is almost ready to fall, then hook him up again and give him
the word to go; this rarely fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them
and they start at the word.

I have failed but. once in handling baulky horses, though I have
handled a large number of them. By repeating the same operations
every day for a week, usually breaks up this most perplexing habit
thoroughly and permanently.

Another method which will prove successful to break a horse in double
harness is, to take a hemp cord, pass around under the tail, bring for-
ward through the terret ring of the baulky horse, and fasten to the ring
of the other horse’s collar or hame; when the other horse starts the
baulky horse can do no other way than move with him, and in a short
time, if the horse is hitched single or doubie, by taking your whip or
any common stick and place on the back of the crupper- ‘strap the nee
will start readily.

How to Throw a Horse.

The only practical method of throwing a horse, first adopted by R. P.
Hamilton, is.easy to the person handling the horse and safe. The horse
lays down quietly, almost as easy as when lying down by himself in the

. Stall. To perform the work procure a rope or any strap long enough to

pass around the horse, and tie in a knot on the back with an iron ring,

99 THE HORSE. >

small size, tied fast; pass the end of the strap or rope around under the
tail for a crupper, bring the end hack, fastening to the belt around the
body ; then take a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft ;
pass around the horse’s neck, tie in a knot that will not slip; then pass
the cord through the horse’s mouth, and stroll back to the ring on the
horse’s back; when that is accomplished pass a strap around the near
fore foot twice and through the keeper, strapping the foot to the belt
around the horse ; when that is done, step back from the horse, taking
hold of the small cord, pulling gently till you have the head to the side,
then with a quick pull bring the horse to the ground, with his knee to
steady him as he falls, It can be done with ease and safety. Whatever
may be the bad habit of your horse, it is a very good plan to give him
a regular course of training, and by throwing a horse down and hand-
ling him just as you please while down, demonstrates to the understand-
ing of the animal that it is worse than useless to try to resist control.
It is the best way we have ever found to handle nervous horses. After
handling gently while down they find they are not hurt, and get over
their fear, and will allow you to do with them as you like anywhere.

Pulling at Halter.

Place on him a common halter headstall. Put on a common girth.
Take a half-inch rope about twenty feet long. Pass the centre of this
rope under the tail in place of a crupper; twist the rope over a couple
of times ; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bringing an end up on
each side of the neck, and pass the ends through the nose-piece of the
headstall under the check pieces, and: tie to a stout ring or place, leav-
ing about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse falls back, he
being tied by the tail to the ring, he pulls upon the tail, and the hurt
coming there instead of the head, where he expected it, he starts up,
it being natural to go from the hurt. By giving him two or three les-
sons, making him fall by whipping him over the nose or exciting him
with an object he is afraid of, the impression being so strong, he will

not forget it, and the more so by repeating for one month or more les-
sons at different times.

To Break Horses from Jumping.

Tie a strap to the fore feet below the knees ; pass it up under a surcin-
gle around the body, and tie the other ends above the gamble joint to
straps inclosed in a ring, so one will go above and the other below the
gamble joint. You will see that when he attempts to jump a fence the

CRIBBING. 93

fore foot is drawn up under him, and as he springs to leave the ground
the hind feet will be pulled up, and he will inevitably remain in the lot.
The value of this plan is that it will in most instances cure a horse or
cow of the habit.

Pawing in Stail and Kicking of One Foot.

Get a piece of chain ten inches in length, runa short strap through
one of the end links and buckle it around the foot above the fetlock; or
a piece of light chain can be fastened to a single block and attach it to
the foot in the same manner when the horse attempts to paw or kick;
the clog or chain rattles against the foot and prevents a repetition of the
practice.

Cribbing.

The act of cribbing indtfces a peculiar contraction of the muscles of
the neck—the larynx is forced down much beyond its natural position.
The enlargement of the neck while biting or sucking wind enables us
easily to prevent and cure this habit.

Have the throatlatch of the halter made of nice stiff leather, and fitted
neatly to the throat. Take a piece of strap about five inches long and
the same width of the throatlatch; drive eight ounce tacks ina row
through the centre, about.three-eighths of an inch apart. File the ends
to an equal length and very sharp. Lay this strap on the inside of the
throatlatch, on the part coming directly under the throat. Winda
waxed end around the centre and the throatlatch and knot firmly, and
tie the ends down in the same manner. This brings a row of sharp
points across the throat when the throatlatch is buckled up—when prop-
erly adjusted and fitted—that will stick into the neck at the least effort
to crib, but do not interfere in the least during the ordinary process of
eating and drinking. The throatlatch of the bridle must be armed in
the same manner, so that the horse is not at liberty to crib under any
circumstances. Ifthe horse is young, and the habit is not of long con-
tinuance, there is but little doubt of being able to break it up with ordi-
nary effort and care; and if it should not break the old horse of long
experience in the habit, it can be relied on as a sure preventive. I
would keep every young horse subject to this means as reproof for at
least from one to three months. Much will depend upon getting the
points of the tacks even and sharp, and everything fitted nicely. The
throatlatch must not be so tight as to cause the points of the tacks to
touch the neck when the horse is eating or drinking, or so loose as not
to touch sharply when there is an effort to crib.

9} THE HORSE.
It seems almost useless to urge care and attention to these details to
persons of no delicacy or aptitude, and yet success will depend almost
wholly upon the skill and care evinced in arranging and carrying out
these details to an exact adaptation, and seeing that it is maintained to
the end of success. This habit can sometimes be cured instantly, by
holding a bottle of spirits of ammonia in the hand, with the thumb
firmly held over the mouth, so holding it that the instant the horse
cribs, by raising the thumb the ammonia will be inhaled through the
nose. The shock to the nerves when inhaled in this way is sometimes
so great as to cause the horse to fall down as if shot, and will often pro-
duce so powerful an impression upon the mind as to cure the habit.

Another Way.

Place a roller at the top of your manger, six inches in diameter,
reaching across the stall. Let the horse eat™his hay and grain from the
- bottom of the manger. ‘The stall should be wide enough so he can be
tied to prevent him from cribbing at the sides of the stall, and also to be
ceiled in front so as to prevent him. When he attempts to crib he must
inevitably work on the roller which, when he places his teeth to crib,
the roller turns, his lips comes in contact with the roller and punishes
him at every attempt, and after a few trials he becomes satisfied and
will not attempt to crib.

To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or small rope, and
place under his tail, cross on the back. and run through the rings of the
halter; first hitch him to a post, and by hitting him over the nose with
something, or to excite him, make him pull, which will satisfy him of
his useless attempts at holding back on the halter; then hitch him to
the wagon, and you will find no trouble in riding home without the
many inconveniences of leading.

Kicking in Harness.

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, because of the dan-
ger incident to the use of such horses. It is well to remember that this
habit is in most cases the result of carelessness or mismanagement.
Proper attention is not given to the fitting of the harness; the straps
dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquainted with their nature,
which frightens and causes him to kick. Or, what is more common, an
old harness is used and breaks at some unlucky moment, which frightens
the colt, and he kicks as a means of self-defence ; when his feet and legs
coming in contact with the whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him

KICKING IN HARNESS. 95
greater fright, and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a frantic en-
deavor to free himself from his tormentor, until he tears himself loose,
or is stopped_after being worried out with fright and exertion. Learn-
ing fear and resistance in this way, he becomes alarmed at the least in-
- dication of its repetition. This fear must be broken by familiarizing the
horse with the causes of his fear, at a time when he is powerless to re-
sist, and when he finds there is no danger of harm he will cease resist-
ance. In the majority of cases this habit is broken by our means of
control. a

To break the kicking horse, you want to put him through a regular

course of handling that will convince him of your ability to manage
him just as you please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his
understanding that he cannot help himself, and must submit uncondi-
tionally to your control. In the first place, then, give him a turn with
the Comanche bridle, making him stop at the word ho! and come to
you at the word. When he submits to that, proceed still further in
convincing him of your power and mastery by throwing himdown. To
do this, fasten up the near fore leg, as described in ‘‘ Handling the
Feet.”
_ Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring slipped on it, around the
animal, and slip the ring to the right side of the horse, near the back-
bone. Now draw the end of your cord or Comanche bridle through
the ring, bringing it over to the near side of the animal; now take the
halter out of the mouth, thus leaving a plain loop around the horse’s
neck; then take hold of your cord with the left hand and straighten it
out.

Now you have a plain double from the neck of the horse around to
the ring on the right side; you put this into the horse’s mouth, and
draw up the end of the cord with the right hand. Now you have him
completely in your power ; you can handle him as easily as a boy could
atop. Now step back by his side with a cord grasped firmly in your
hand, say, ‘ Lie down, sir,” at the same time pulling steadily on the
rope. His foot being fastened up he is easily thrown off his balance.
He will gradually settle down on to the knee of the near leg, when a
quick pull will bring him over on his side.

Now you have him down, use him gently; rub his head and neck ;
talk to him kindly, thus letting him know that your object is not to hurt
him ; that all you require is submission, and that you possess the ability
to enforce that. After letting him lie for a while, make him get up on
three legs, let him stand a moment, then put him down again. While
down, handle his feet and legs as you please, and so continue until he
will lie still and submit to you in everything you wish. Then take the

26 THE HORSE.

strap off his leg and let him get up; caress and rub his leg where the
strap has been.

_-Now put the harness on. Use a blind-bridle with a W bit (or some
call it a double-joint bit), and if you cannot obtain one at your harness
maker’s, go to a blacksmith and have one made. With this kind of a
bit on your horse, you want to drive him around your yard, occasionally
saying ho, at the same time setting him back upon his haunches with
the bit. In a very short time he will stop when you say ho, without
any pull on the rein ; then go up to him and caress him about the head
and neck; then take your whip and switch him around the hind legs
and flanks, lightly, and if he shows a disposition to kick or run, say ho
sharply, at the same time correct with the bit.

In your first lesson use the bit with severity; thus demonstrating to
the horse your determination and ability to enforce obedience under
any and all circumstances of resistance. When you can drive him
around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the word without using
the rein, go to him again and pat and rub him to encourage him in
well-doing. Then attach the long cord to your reins, and start him
away from you at a trot, letting him go as far as the length of your
cord will permit without pulling on the bit, when you will say ho. If
he swops, go up and caress him, and keep on in that way until he will
stop and start at the word, no matter how far away he is, so long as he
can hear your voice.

After you have him so well in hand that he obeys readily and willingly
take the reins in your hand and learn him to back, encouraging him by
kindness when he does right, and correcting with the bit when he shows
the least intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When he will back
at the word, back him against your buggy wheels, keeping an eye on
his movements, and if he shows fear and a disposition to get away from
it, do not force him against it at first, but drive him around and up to,
letting him smell and examine it until he becomes satisfied it is not
going to hurt him; then back him up to it again, right back against it,
and if he is disposed to kick say ho, sharply, at the same time giving
him a short quick jerk with the rein. By this treatment he finds that
you still have the same power in your hands that has already controlled
him so completely and easily, therefore he submits unconditionally.

You can now proceed to hitch him up; watch him closely, and if
anything should excite him momentarily, and he should manifest a
desire to repeat his old habit, say ho, and if he does not obey instantly
set him back with the bit in a manner that shall leave no doubt of your
ability to control him at will. . If handled in this way for a few times,
he becomes convineed of the uselessness of resistance, and careful man-

THE RUNAWAY HORSE. of

agement for two or three weeks will radically break the worst horse of
this kind we ever saw.

People have often expressed wonder at our success in managing kick-
ing and runaway horses. The simple laws of nature are to such un-
worthy of reflection, except the submission of the animal, the control
is looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But we do control them
perfectly and thoroughly by the word ho. In breaking to the word we
use means that compel obedience. If your horse minds the word
quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not going to do you or himself
any damage by kicking, for if you stop him whenever the old habit is
brought to mind, and let him stand until the excitement is over, he will
have no incentive for kicking, and in a short time will forget the habit
altogether. So with

The Runaway Horse.

Handle with the Comanche bridle, and by throwing the same as the
kicking horse in harness, unless the habit is caused by fear of some ob-
ject, such as an umbrella, buffalo robe or anything else that may frighten
him and cause him to run away; if that should be the case, when you
have him down put the frightful object—whatever it may be—around
him, throw it onto him, at the same tine rub and caress him, let him
know that it is nothing that will hurt him, then let him up, put it on over
him, rub him with it; and in that way familiarize him with it until he
cares nothing about it. Then train him in harness until he will mind
the word ho. Make him run, and if he does not stop at the word, stop
him by the bit so suddenly as to disconcert him and destroy his confi-
dence completely.

Although we have given a powerful means of coercion, and of im-
pressing the horse of his inability to resist the power of man, still prac-
tical and thorough as those means are, they are of but Jittle account if
not used with prudence and judgment. Men are tooapt to depend upon
main strength and stupid harshness for success in the management of
horses. And with equal stupidity the basis of control we have here
given may be made in the hands of some power to be abused with reck-
less disregard of consequences. Be Firm, persevering and prudent in
the exercise of your power when it necessary to impress your subject
with a sense of mastery; but be gentle, attractive and affectionate
when he is obedient and submissive. Train your horse thoroughly with
the Comanche bridle each time before hitching up. We find by experi-
ence that horses subject to bad habits are ungovernable in the mouth.
If we govern the mouth well, we have, in almost every instance, a good

28 THE HORSE.

control of the horse; and it is an important requisite, under all circum-
stances, in the control of horses in harness.

Then control while driving, until thorough and certain obedience is in-
sured to the word. Strive to tell your horse exactly what you want him
to do, and do not confuse him by attaching different meanings to the
same word. It is quite common to say ho when it is intended to go
slower, or to attract the attention of the horse when standing, to let him
know of your presence. Now if anything should happen, and you
wished him to stop suddenly, he would not be likely to mind without a
pull at the bit; and why should he, as long as he has been learned in
that hap-hazard way that ho meant anything and nothing at the same
time? Such training confuses the horse so much that, though he is
naturally obedient and tractable, he will become careless and obstinate.

Have a distinct word for every command, and make him understand
that every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural tone of voice
to your horse under all circumstances. Nothing confuses a horse more
than screaming at him to have him hear. He is as acute in'the sense
of hearing as man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have his pulse in-
creased from six to ten beats a minute by one harsh word. Have your
horse understand that things likely to frighten are harmless, and be
sure not to whip for being frightened. If your horse is frightened at
anything approaching, let him stand until it passes; but hold the reins
snug and firmly, or he may swing round and apset you. If cars are
passing, and are regarded with fear, let your horse face them, but hold
him immovable with the reins. Always, under such circumstances, taik
encouragingly to him, remembering the slower you move him the more
power you have over him. | There is but little danger of a horse kicking
after being stopped or while moving slowly, and so with the runaway.
He will seldom make a second attempt at the time he has been foiled
and stopped.

A horse frightened becomes reckless, consequently never raise an
umbrella suddenly or unexpectedly behind a horse afraid of such things.
First raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, and then, to make
sure, if you have not a bit that will control your horse easily, put on a
Comanche bridle, and carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear and
anger is something that a good horseman should never exhibit in his
countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon learns
to take advantage of such indications to become careless, or, excited by
- anger, may become aggressive or unmanageable.

Let your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and pa-
tient with the colt, but make the wilful, stubborn horse feel the full ex-
tent of your power. Make the old reprobate know that the only alter-

—

BAD TO SHOE. 99

native is mncbwetiondl submission to your will; though if ie’ should
become too much heated and excited, it is prudent to ‘stop and repeat
the lesson at some future time; but repeat until there is thorough and
unconditional submission. After a horse submits, let your treatment be
characterized by gentleness and good-nature. _

Bad to Shoe.

The habit of resistance to being shod or allowing the feet to be han-
dled, like all others to which horses are subject, is the result of hasty
and imprudent harshness. It would seem from the reckless disregard
of consequences so generally evinced in handling young horses, as
though man doubted his own reason, and would not take counsel of the
teachings of prudence. If the feet had been handled gently at first, and
blacksmiths had not vented so much of their vexation in the way of
founding with the hammer for every little movement of resistance in
shoeing, this habit would never have been contracted.

The natural tractability of the horse causes him to yield a ready obe-
dience to all reasonable demands that he comprehends. If the feet are
jerked up roughly, and without an effort to reconcile him to being han-
dled, the colt will strive to get away or free himself from what he sup-
poses will hurt him. Never hold to the foot with all your might when
the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in sucha case strength is not your
forte, and your struggles only convince the horse of your weakness.
Handle the horse in conformity with the laws of his nature, so as not to
excite resistance through fear of injury. If the horse does not very
much resist the handling of his feet, put the Comanche bridle'on him and
put a short strap on his hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring
the foot forward, and he will probably resist by kicking. The instant
he kicks, reprove with the Comanche bridle, which is held in the other
hand, and so continue until the foot is submitted without resistance. But
if your subject is very bad, take a strap or rope about twelve feet long, and
tie one end of it ina loop around his neck where the collar rests, pass the
other end back between the fore legs and around the near hind leg
below the fetlock, thence back between the leg and through the loop
around the neck. Now step in front of the horse and take firm hold of
the rope or strap and give a quick pull upon it, which will bring the
foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot as far forward as you
can, which will give you the more advantage. The horse will try to
free the foot by kicking. Hold the head fir mly with the left hand, and
with the other hold the strap firmly.

Stand right up to the horse’s shoulder and whirl him about you,

30 THE HORSE.

‘which you can easily do while he struggles to free himself. As soon as
he yields, handle the foot gently, and then let up on it a little, and so
continue until he will let you handle the foot without resistance. It may
be necessary to repeat the lesson once or twice, and be careful to handle
the foot with the greatest gentleness.

If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck instead of the loop,
and fasten your strap to it. Usea smooth, soft strap, so as not to chafe
the foot where it passes around it.

Shoeing.

If we examine the horse’s foot while in the natural state, it will be
found to be almost round and very elastic at the heel, the frog broad,
plump, and of a soft, yielding character ; the commissures open and well
defined, the sole concave; the outside crust from the heel to the toe in-
creased from a slight bevel to an angle of forty-five degrees; conse-*
quently, as the foot grows it becomes wider and longer in proportion to
the amount of horn secreted, and narrower and shorter in proportion to
the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accurately to the ©
foot after being dressed down well, it would be found too narrow and
short for the same foot after the lapse of a few weeks.

Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this naturally en-
larging and elastic hoof, it prevents its natural freedom of expansion
almost wholly, and does not allow the foot to grow wider at the quarters
as it grows down, in proportion to the amount of horn grown, as before
shod ; consequently the foot is changed by the continued restraint of
the shoe, from a nearly round, healthy foot to a contracted and un-
healthy condition, as generally seen in horses shod for a few years.

The principles which should govern in shoeing are few and simple,
and it is surprising, considering the serious consequences involved, that
it should be done with so little consideration. The object of the shoer
should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, to keep the
foot natural, and this involves first the cutting away of any ‘undue accu-
mulation of ‘horn, affecting in the least its health and freedom. Second,
to carry out in the shape of the shoe, that of the foot as nearly as possi-
ble. Third. to fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as least to interfere
with its health, growth and elasticity.

The preparation of the font requires the cutting away of about the
proportion of horn which, coming in contact with the ground, would
have worn off, or which has accumulated since being shod last. If the
shoes have been on a month, the proportion of horn that was secreted
in that time is to be removed. If two months, then the proportion of

SHOEING. Kal

two months’ growth. No definite rule can be given; the judgment

‘must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The stronger and

more rapid the growth of the foot, the more must be cut away ; and the
weaker and less horn produced, the less to the extremity of simply lev-
elling the crust alittle, the better to conform to the shoe. There is gen-
erally a far more rapid growth of horn at the toe than at the heels or
the quarters ; more will be required to be taken off there than off the
other parts. Therefore shorten the toe and lower the heels until you
succeed in bringing down the bearing surface of the hoof upon the shoe
to almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be careful to make the
heels level. Having lowered the crust to the necessary extent with the
buttress or knife, smooth it down level with the rasp. The sole and
frog detach by exfoliation as it hecomes superabundant. The sole,
therefore, would not need paring were it not for the restraining effect
of the shoe upon the general functions of the foot, which is liable to
prevent such detachment of the horn.

We would be particular, also, in impressing the necessity of not con-
founding the bars with the substance of the sole, and setting them down
to the common level with the sole.

Any man of common sense can see that the bearing of the bars should
be equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that they offer
a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The cutting away
of the bars to give the heels an open appearance, is inexcusable, and
should never be done. In a natural, healthy condition, the frog has a
line of bearing with the hoof, and by its elastic nature acts as a safe-
guard to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately over it, and
helps to preserve the foot in its natural state by keeping the heels
spread.

Pt seems to be wisely intended to give life and health to the foot.
Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addition of high-heeled
shoes, raises the frog from its natural position and causes it to shrink
and harden, and bears, in consequence, an important influence in set-
ting up a diseased action that usually results in contraction of the foot.
If the heels are square and high, and the hoof presents rather a long,
narrow appearance, and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of con-
traction going on, and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly.
Do not hesitate because the foot will appear small. Cut away until
you are well down to the level with the line horn of the sole, and if the
foot is weak, use the same prudence i in not cutting it away too much.

The shoer must always bear in mind that the “sole must not rest on
the shoe. Let the foot be so dressed down, and the shoe so approxi-
mate, that the bearing will come evenly upon the crust all the way

y;

82 THE HORSE.

around without the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to
be dressed level, and, although well down to the live horn of the sole, it
should always be left a little higher. The corners between the bars and
crust should be well pared out, so that there is no danger of the sole
resting upon the shoe.. Presuming that we have said enough on the
subject of paring, we will now consider

The Shoe.

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size,
weight, fitting, and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of pro-
tection, and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight
it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse.
The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is necessary to pre-
serve it. If the hoof is light, the shoe should be light also; but if the
horse work principally on the road, his shoes should be rather heavy.
In its natural state the foot has a concave sole surface, which seems to
offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when travelling.
Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent shoers are fashioned on this
principle, and, aside from the advantage of lightness and strength, they
are considered to be an improvement on the common flat shoe. Geo.
H. Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said once on the subject of shoeing: “The
action of concave feet may be compared to that of the claws of a cat,
or the nails on the fingers and toes of a man; the nails and toes are ful-
crums: they grasp, as it were, the bodies with which they come in con-
tact, and thus they secure a fulcrum of resistance when travelling or
grasping.” Now, in order to preserve the natural mechanical action of
the horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must correspond
exactly with the ground surface of the foot that is to say, the ground
surface of the shoe must be levelled cup-fashion; its outer edge being
prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the hoof, while
the shoe being hollow, it resembles the natural concave form of the sole
of the foot.

No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it be high or
low heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or shortened at the toe,
or having a concave or convex sole, it matters not; the ground surface
of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of the shoe altera-
tions and deviations from any given rule or form are needed, in conse-
quence of the ever varying form of the foot, and the condition of the ©
same, both as regards health and disease; but the sole of the foot being
concave, presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe which
the smith, with all his skill, cannot improve on, and if all such crafts-

THE SHOE. 33

men were to follow this pattern more closely than they do there would
be fewer accidents in falling, and a less number of lame horses. The
shee should be of equal thickness all the way round, perfectly level on
the top side, and concave on the ground surface.

We cannot see the propriety, as given by a standard author, of seat-
ing all shoes alike, and of carrying them well back at the heel. Seat-
ing appears to be necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the inside
edge of the shoe must be lowered from the possible bearing of the sole,
and enough to run the picker areund between the shoe and hoof, to re-
move any gravel or foreign matter that may find a lodgment between
them. If there is much space between the shoe and sole, it invites. ac-
cumulation of gravel, and other substances injurious to the foot.

If the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is wide at the heels,
and instead of bearing ona level surface, as they should, come down
upon this inclined plane, it tends to crowd them together. If the shoe
is not wide in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be made per-
fectly level on top. At all events, that portion upon which rests the
heels and. crust should be level and accurately fitted. The shoe should
be continued around toward the heel so far as the crust extends, as
large as the full unrasped hoof, but no part must project beyond it, ex-
cepting at the extreme of the heel. The expansion of the heel and the
growth of the foot requires that the shoe should be long enough and
wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural growth of the foot
during the time the shoe is expected to remain on the foot; for, as the
foot grows, the shoe is drawn forward, until it loses its original propor-
tion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be a quarter
of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the heels, and
the nail holes should be punched coarse and in the centre of the web.
In the hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three well forward in
the inside toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe.

The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, and
what requires the most special attention in shoeing; for the foot, being
elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on the nicely
fitted shoe. it is the number and position of the nails that really affect
the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, four on a side,
as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if in
a vice, which utterly prevents the free action necessary to its health.
inflammation of the sensitive laminze is produced, which causes con-
traction and the consequent derangement of the whole foot.

If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the spreading of the
quarters in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the

_ hailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust

34 THE HORSE.
and coffin bone will result, and ultimately create so much diseased
action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular disease. Shoes
may be securely fastened without causing such mischief, if the follow-
ing method of nailing is observed: Drive four nails on the outside of
the foot, the same as common, while you drive two or three well for-
ward in the toe of the opposite side, which leaves the inside quarter
virtually free and independent of the shoe, for the outside of the foot
being the only part fastened, carries the shoe with it at every expansion,
while the inside, being unattached, expands independently of it, and
the foot is left as nearly as possible in a state of nature so far as its
powers of expansion are concerned. It may be asked, will this style of
nailing hold shoes on the feet of horses of all work? We answer, yes;
experience has fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold the shoe on
ordinary feet for any purpose, if the shoes are properly fitted, for a
period of from four to seven weeks, which is as long as shoes should be
on without resetting. If shoes are made with little clips, to keep them
from being shoved back under the foot, they will require less nailing.
If seven nails are found to be necessary, have the three on the inside
drove in the space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the toe,
though in most cases two will be found sufficient for the purpose. Turn
down the clinchers snugly.

Nothing should be done for what might be called “ fancy.” The hoof
should never be filed or rasped above the clinches, as the hoof is cov-
ered by a peculiar enamel that prevents the too rapid evaporation of
moisture from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed. The practice
of rasping, filing or sand-papering the hoof to make it look nice, only
produces mischief, and should never be allowed. Horses kept for light
driving and irregular work, particularly those having rather square,
upright heels, should be shod on the one-sided nailing principle, as the
feet of such horses are much disposed to contractivn.

So far as observation and experience teaches us, we find proper
attention to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes so as not to
interfere with the free expansion of the hoof (as above) will remedy con-
traction ; though attention to growing down the crust, and the use of
shoes that are slightly convex or levelled out, so as to have a tendency
to spread the heels when the weight of the body is thrown upon the
foot, and fastening on the principle of the inside quarter being left free,
is regarded as much better; but the blacksmith must be a good work-
man to fashion and fit a shoe in this way properly. The nails should
not be driven higher in the crust than seven-eighths of an inch, and not
so deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If the foot is light,
and shows a thin delicate crust, the nails should be small and not driven

MECHANIC OR SAFETY SHAFTS. 30

high or deep into the horn. As a rule, the fewer and smaller the nails
used, provided they secure the shoe to the foot, the better. Shoes
should be re-set as often as once a month, though in some cases they
need not require setting so often. It is positively necessary at six, and
must not be neglected longer than seven or eight weeks, if you would
preserve the natural shape of the foot.

Interfering.

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the foot hits the
opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the ankle with a white
cloth, which cover with some kind of coloring matter over where the
opposite foot hits; then drive the horse until you can discover by some
of the coloring matter adhering what portion of the crust hits the ankle.
Remove this portion of the crust, and have the shoe set well under the
foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot safely by bearing on
the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared lowest on the outside, to
turn the ankle that the other hoof may pass clear. Yet if the inside
sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and the inside is found to be
actually lower than the outside. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should
be light, or narrow web on the inside, with three nail-holes near the toe.
They should be straight at the point where they come in contact with
the opposite ankle. By adhering to this principle strictly of paring the
foot and fitting and fastening the shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of
the difficulty. Shoes, to prevent overreaching, should be long, and for
the forward feet heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind feet
light, with heavy toes. The hoof should well pared at the toe.

Mechanic or Safety Shafts.

Get three scantlings or poles of good tough timber of about four
inches in diameter, and fourteen feet in length each. Put down two of
these, so as to bring them two feet apart at one end and thirteen at the
other. Now lay the other pole across on the ends of the others widest
apart, about six inches from the ends. Mark and halve them together.
Then bore a hole through both pieces at each corner so fitted, and bolt
them firmly together. To fix the other ends get a piece of tire iron,
four feet long, and bend it in the form of a breast collar, the rounding
side in, so as to have cach end extend back on the inside of the poles
ten or twelve inches, and fit up nicely to the wood. Have two holes
punched or drilled through each end of the iron, by which to bo!t it
firmly to the poles. Then drive staples into or near the ends,

36 THE HORSE.

To finish the other ends, take two pieces of iron one foot each in
length, and an inch in diameter, flat one end, and punch through two
holes. Work down the other ends toa sharp point; bend down the
ends so sharpened about six inches, in the form of a half circle; bolt
these irons under the ends of the poles, the sharp ends pointing down
and back, forming dogs, something like those on the ends of sleigh run-
ners, to prevent the sleigh running back. Now harness your horse into
this arrangement, taking the precaution to wind the irons around the
ends with an old piece of cloth, and strengthening the harness, if at all
likely to break, by tying a piece of rope around with the breeching and
around the body, as may be thought necessary. Though, perhaps the
best way to hold the shafts, as we will call them, nicely up to the neck,
is by bringing a strong rope or strap over the neck and fastening around
the iron near the wheel. It must be remembered that before hitching
the horse into this, he should be subjected to the most thorough training
of the mouth with the war-bridle; when hitched, get behind the cross-
piece, holding the reins. If the horse attempts to go back, the iron
hooks on the ends of the poles settle into the ground, making it impossi-
ble to do so. Should he attempt to turn short round, the pole extends
out and back from the shoulders at almost right angles, preventing a
movement in that direction. If he attempts to rear, the restraint of the
breeching becomes a lifting lever upon the hind parts, and the horse is
at once disabled. Now drive the horse forward to the cars, putting
your foot upon the cross-piece, and holding the horse to his position
when showing fear, to the end of forcing him up to the object. of fear.

It must be remembered that a horse, once really frightened at an ob-
ject which is likely to produce such great and sudden fear as an engine
and cars, can seldom, with anything like ordinary effort, be made so
regardless of them when suddenly and unexpectedly moved near him,
as to be made at all safe for family driving, or purposes involving much
responsibility when brought into possible proximity with them. But if
the animal is much prized, and rendering him safe and gentle much of
an object, go to work with a will, following up one advantage after
another, driving the horse often perseveringly around near the cars
until successful. But it must be remembered that fear is the least
voluntary and least controllable to the reason of the feelings, when
once really aroused, and when the nervous system is prostrated by its
force and continuance, it is the most difficult of all manageable habits
to overcome. There is a limit to the advantages of skillful manage-
ment in this respect, so far as absolute success is concerned. It is not
possible to make a horse of any spirit absolutely fearless, and the con-
sideration which should govern an honest desire to hit the mark best is

TO LEARN A HORSE TO APPEAR INTELLIGENT. 37

to give a correct understanding of whatitis practicable todo. My advice
is, if the horse is really bad, do not trust yourself or family behind

him. The risk is too great to be borne, or advised to be hazarded in the
hands of most men.

- Corns.

. {

Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the heel. They are gen-
erally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing the shell of the
hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws the weight upon the sole, or
the angles between the bars and crust are not kept properly dressed out
—for any accumulation of horn between the bars and crust which would
prevent the free elasticity of the sole at the heel must increase the risk
of producing corns, by the liability there is of causing the sensitive
laminz beneath the edges of the coffin bone to become bruised, owing
to the undue pressure it may be subjected to for want of elasticity in the
horny sole. When the sensitive laminz is thus bruised, the horny sub-
stance of which the sole is composed is secreted in less quantities, the
blood from the ruptured vessels mingles with the imperfectly secreted
matter, and as the process is going on it soon makes its appearance on
the outside.

To Cure Corns.

Cut the corn well down, but not quite to the quick; fit the shoe so as
not to press upon the part, then saturate with fine gum which is found
exuding from trees when cut. Fill the part nieely with tow, then put
on the shoe, remembering that the shoe must: be so fitted as not to
oblige the part to support but very little, if any, of the weight of the
horse. We have had horses troubled with corns treated in this way
with very good effect. Horses with corns must be oftener and more
carefully shod than those free from them. In shoeing, strive to keep
the form of the foot natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this
rule; and lastly, have the shoes se-set at least every six or seven weeks.

To Learn a Horse to Appear Intelligent.

As many of our scholars would like to know how to teach thei:
horses tricks we will explain how it. may be done, . Teaching your
horse a few tricks serves ,greatly to keep an interest in him and makes
him appear fearless, intelligent and affectionate. In teaching a horse
tricks it is best to give him one or two lessons daily of half or three-
quarters of an hour each.

33 THE HORSE.
To Come at the Crack of the Whip, or Word.

“Put on the Comanche bridle, stand off a few feet, holding the halter
in your left hand, the whip in the right. Crack the whip and say,
“Come here, sir!” He does not know what this means, but you show
him by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by moving
towards you a few steps. This movement you thank him for by feeding
him something that he likes from your hand, and by petting and caress-
ing him upon the head and neck; then repeat in the same way, reward-
ing him as before, and so continue until he will walk up to you every
time you crack the whip or say, “Come here, sir,” which he will soon
learn to do. Each time he comes to you talk to him kindly, and do not
fail to give him his reward of corn or something he likes. You can now
take off the halter and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully compre-
hends that the way to avoid the whip is to come to you, which, with the
encouragement of rewarding him for so doing, will soon inspire him
with confidence, and he will come to you and follow likeadog. Be
very cautious about the use of the whip or harsh language, remember-
ing that perfect, cheerful obedience is your object, aml that can be
secured only by great patience and gentleness.

To Make a Bow.

Take a pin in the right hand, between the thumb and forefinger, and
stand at his left side near the hips, tell him tomakea bow. Then prick-
ing him very lightly on the small of the back, this will make him move
his head ; keep pricking him until you get the right motion of the head,
then caress him where you have been pricking him. Or take your pin
as before and stand up to his shoulder and prick him on the breast
lightly, as if a fly were biting, which to relieve he will bring down his
head, which you will accept as a bow, and will reward by caressing on
the side of the neck. Then repeat until he will bring down his head at
the least motion of your hand towards his breast or any other signal
that he will understand readily.

To say No.

Stand by your horse’s shoulder, tell him to shake his head, at the
same time prick him lightly on the withers or neck, which will cause
him to shake his head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as
before, and repeat until he will shake his head at the least indication
of your touching him with the pin. You can train your horse so nicely

TO SIT UP. 39

in this way in a short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake his
head by merely turning the hand a little or moving it slightly towards
him. ;

To Lie Down.

To teach a horse to lie down quickly you must lay him down a few
times with the rope and strap, as described in * Tampering with Vicious
Horses.” When down treat your horse with great attention and kind-
ness. After putting him down a few times in this way he will usually
lie down in a short time by taking up one foot and holding it in your
hand, asking him to lie down; he will soon come down. When he will
come on his knees by taking his foot in your hand, stoop as if intending
to take it up, saying, ‘‘ Lie down, sir!” Then make him come down
by a motion of the hand, and finally by simply telling him to lie down.

In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward him for
lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you want and finding
himself paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get down for
the reward as you are to have him do so.

To Sit Up.

When your horse will lie down readily you can then learn him to sit
up, like a dog, easily. First, cause him to lie down, having on a com-
mon bridle, with the reins over his neck; then step behind him and
step firmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins in the left
hand while with the right bear down firmly on the hips ; thus in position,
say, “‘Get up, sir.” The horse rising from a recumbent position, first
turns on his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises himself on them,
springs forward and rises on his hind feet. Now standing on his tail
firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts to spring for-
ward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you will hold him sitting
up. -Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him kindly, before per-
mitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times, when instead of
springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time, which you are to
accept as complying with your wishes.

Always say “Sit up, sir,” every time, and hold him in the position as
long as he will bear, by fondling and talking to him kindly, and your
horse will soon learn to’sit up for you as long as you please. But if
your horse is heavy and strong it will be necessary to resort to other
means to hold him down at first. This you do by putting on his neck a
common collar, and causing him to lie down; then fasten a halter-strap
to each hind foot and bring forward through the collar and draw up ©

40 THE HORSE.

close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step behind as
before, and when he attempts to rise on his hind feet he will find it im-
possible to do so, because you hold them forward by those straps. Re-
peat two or three times, when it will not be necessary to resort to such
force.

To Learn a Horse How to Dance.

Put on the Comanche bridle ; take hold of the cord some four or five
feet from the horse's head, and with a whalebone whip tap him on the
shin or ankle until he lifts his foot, then caress him, and do the same
with the other ; then make him raise first one foot, then the other, and
caress.him; then make him raise them several times, until he moves his
whole body by the motion of the whip to the time of music.

To Learn to Waltz.

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his chest and
fasten the bridle reins to it, the left rein much the tightest, bringing his
head well round to the left side. Then make him move forward, when
he follows his head, and every time as he is turning his head from you
give him a sharp cut with the whip, which will make him jump round
quickly until his head comes around to you again. Then you should
caress and encourage him by talking kindly. He will then be slower to
move his head from you, but you must continue with the whip every
-time the horse’s hind parts are to you and his head from you, caressing
every few minutes, until he understands to move at the motion of the

whip.
To Teach a Horse to Kiss You.

Teach him first to take an apple, or something that he likes, out of
your hand ; when gradually raising the hand nearer the mouth at each
repetition until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding it
with your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will soon
learn to reach his nose up to your mouth, first to get his apple, but
finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until your horse
understands and he will do the trick thoroughly.

To Shake Hands.
Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fetlock. Stand

directly in front of the horse, holding the end of the strap in your hand,
then say, ‘Shake hands, sir,” and immediately pull upon the strap,

TO SHAKE HANDS. 41

which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept as shak-
ing hands, thanking him for it by caressing and rubbing his leg, and so
repeat until when you make the demand he will bring the foot forward
in anticipation of having it pulled up. This is a very easy trick to teach
a horse. By a little practice a horse may be easily trained to approach,
make a bow, shake hands, follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, etc.,
which makes him appear both polite and intelligent. ?

Never loose courage or confidence in your ability because you do not >
bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything of importance,
remember, requires no ordinary resolution and perseverance. There.
will be no credit or importance attached to mastering and managing
bad horses if not difficult and apparently dangerous. No duty requires
more firmness of purpose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity
to the principles of kindness and truth, than that of horsemanship.

RECIPES.

Tue following recipes have been gathered from sources entitled to the
fullest confidence as remedies of great value, and sume of them at an
unusual cost; and we present them with the hope of their being duly
appreciated :

It is well to remember that to beh horses in health is much more im-
portant, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to cure sick ones.
Abuse, overwork, and exposure, are to be guarded against, if the seri-
ous consequences of Inflammation of the Lungs, Colic, Founder, etc.,
are to be avoided; and if you have a sick horse, be cautious about
doctoring too much until you are sure of what ought to be done.

Worm Ball.

Assafeetida 4 0oz., gentian 2 oz., strong mercurial ointment 1 oz. Make
into mass with honey. Divide into 16 balls. Give 1 or more every
morning.

Purgative Ball.

Aloes 1 oz., cream tartar and Castile soap, +0z. Mix with molasses
to make a ball.
Fever Ball.
Emetic tartar and camphor, each 4 oz., and nitre 2 ounces. Mix
with linseed meal and molasses to make 8 balls, and give 1 twice a day.

Diuretic Ball.

Castile soap, scraped fine, and powdered rosin, each 3 teaspoonfuls ;
powdered nitre 4 teaspoonfuls, oil of juniper 1 small teaspoonful, honey
a sufficient quantity to make into a ball.

Cough Ball.

Pulverized ipecac, % oz., camphor 2 oz., squills, 4 oz. Mix with
honey to form into mass, and divide into 8 balls. Give 1 every morning.

(42)

RECIPES. 4d

with the water which the horse drinks. A bran mash should be given
every other day. When the disease assumes a chronic form, which is
seldom the case, injecting the nose: with a weak solution of alum will
remove the discharge. Young horses are very apt to have swelled legs
unless they get walking exercise for a short time every day. This is
owing partly to the weakness of the circulation, and partly to a deterio-
rated state of the blood having been engendered during the horse’s sick-
ness. .
Cataract.

This can be removed from a horse’s eye with finely pulverized burnt
alum, blown into the horse’s eye through a goose quill. Or take oil of
wintergr een, get a small glass syringe, and inject a few drops into the
eye, and after 3 days repeat the application.

Loose Bowels.

In cases of chronic diarrhoea,a good remedy is to put powdered char-
coal in the feed, and if the disease depends on a digestive function—the
liver included—give a few doses of the following: Powdered golden seal
2 oz., ginger 1 oz., salt 1 oz. Dose—+ an oz, twice a day.

Corns.

There are no fixed rules for the treatment of horses withcorns. Corns
occur to horses with the best of feet. The high-heeled and contracted
quartered, the low as wellas the broard, all occasionally become afflicted
with this annoying disease, the common cause being the worst of shoe-
ing. Success in the treatment of corns must rest entirely upon the in-
telligent understanding of the shoer. If he is master of the art he will
see at a glance what parts of the foot require to be removed. In the
preparation of the foot, no matter what its form, so long as there is no
reason to suspect suppuration, no ‘‘ paring out the corn ” should be per-
mitted. When such officious exploration is permitted, the healthy con-
dition of the foot is interfered with; the scooping out of the horn at the
angle formed by the bar and wall interferes with the natural growth of
these parts, causes them to tilt over and to press directly upon the seat
of the corn, thus inflicting injuries which frequently terminate in sup-
puration. Let the horse's foot be properly adjusted in all its parts,
always leaving as broard and level a bearing as possible. With regard
to the shoe, unless the condition of the horse’s foot requires some spe-
cial modification for its protection, we prefer a plain shoe, a small clip at
the toe, moderately broad web, and of uniform thickness from toe to
heel.

46 THE HORSE.

Cribbing.

There is supposed to be no remedy for this habit, but a person who
has tried it says that a horse can be cured of crib-biting by nailing a
sheepskin, wool side up, wherever there is any chance for the horse to
bite.

Callous on Colt.

Take 1 oz. of bitter sweet, 1 oz. of skunk cabbage, 1 oz. of blood root;
steep and mix with lard; make an ointment, and apply once or twice a
day. This is considered a sure remedy.

Cough.

Take powdered squills 1 oz., ginger 2 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz.; mix
well, and give a spoonful every morning in bran. Another remedy is to
give the animal a feed of sunflower seed.

Hoof Dressing.

A good preparation, and one that will give the horse’s hoof a rapid
and healthy growth, is to take of oil of tar 1 pt., beeswax 14 lbs., whale
oil 4 pts. The above ingredients should be mixed and melted together
over a slow fire, and applied to all parts of the hoof at least once or
twice a week.

Inflammation of Eye.

Keep the horse quiet, and dress the eye repeatedly with the following
lotion: Take of tincture of opium 2 oz., and of water 1 pt.; mix.
Much depends upon a proper application of the lotion, and a most ad-
vantageous proceeding is to attach several folds of linen rag to the
headstall so as to cover the eye, and by being repeatedly saturated it
will keep up constant evaporation, as well as a cooling effect. The
horse should also be removed from excessive light. When the inflam-
mation has been subdued, the opacity—more or less of which is sure to
remain—must be treated by the application of either iodide of potassium
or nitrate of silver, prepare thus: Take of iodide of potassium 20 grs.;
water 1 oz; mix; or take of nitrate of silver 5 grs., distilled water 1
ounce; mix. To be applied daily by means of a camel’s hair brush sat-
’ urated with the lotion and drawn gently across the eye.

Brittle Feet.

In a large majority of cases brittleness of hoof owes its origin to mis-
management of the feet, and especially to excessive moisture, the use of
swabs, the bath tub, etc. In all cases where the hoof is naturally brit-
tle the feet should be kept dry rather than wet. If convenient, we
would remove the shoes, and rasp the wall mederately shert and round

RECIPES. 47

at its margin. Having cut the hair off short around the entire coronet,
-a little iodide of mercury Ointment should be rubbed in. This will
cause a rapid growth of horn. The horse should be kept during the
‘day in a roomy box having a layer of tan or sawdust spread over the
floor. When removed to his stall at night the feet should be washed
clean, and, after being wiped dry, every part of the hoof should be freely
anointed with the following composition: Take of oil of tar and bees-
wax, of each 40z., honey and beef suet, of each 2 oz., whale oil 8 ounces ;
melt the beeswax and beef suet first, then add the honey and other in-
gredients, stirring the whole until nearly cold. All sousing of the feet
must be avoided.
Sand Crack in Foot.

This, as its name imports, is a crack or division of the hoof from
above downwards, and into which sand and dirt are too apt to insinuate
themselves. It occurs both in the fore and the hind feet. In the fore
feet it is usually found in the inner quarter, but occasionally in the
outer quarter, because there is the principal stress or effort toward ex-
pansion in the foot, and the inner quarter is not so strong as the outer.
In the hind feet the crack is almost invariably found in the front, be-
cause in the digging of the toe into the ground, in the act of drawing,
the principal stress is in front. If the crack be superficial—does not
penetrate through the horn—it will cause no lameness, yet must not be
neglected. If the crack has extended to the sensible parts, and you can
see any fungus flesh, with a small drawing knife remove the edges of
the cracked horn that press upon it. Touch the fungus with caustic,
dip a roll of tow or linen in tar, and bind it very firmly over it. The
whole foot is to be kept ina bran poultice for a few days, or until the
lameness is removed. A shoe may then be put on, so as not to press on
the diseased part. The pledget of tow may now be removed, the crack
filled with the composition, and the animal may be then turned into
some soft meadow.

Pummice Foot.

This is indicated by the hoofs spreading more and more and losing
their shape. A properly constructed rcund (bar) shoe is the only relia-
ble remedy, for it can be worn indefinitely without detriment to any
part of the foot. The main object of treatment is to protect and pre-
serve the deformed sole. The shoe must be chambered so as not to
touch the sole, and no paring away of the latter must be allowed. Keep
the feet clean and dry as possible. j

Fracture.
Severe lameness is sometimes caused by the fracture of 1 or 2 bones

48 THE HORSE.

on the inside of the hoof—namely, the coffin of the navicular bone. I .
closed as these bones are on the inside of the hoof, and fenced in later.
ally by the cartilages, it is often difficult to detect, and we are obliged
to depend on the general symptoms: the horse halts exceedingly, the
foot is hot, and the pain extreme. As these bones are confined in the
hoof no displacement can take place, therefore no crepitus can be de-
tected. In all cases of fracture of either bone, a careful examination
will, however, reveal the existence of a swelling at the back of the heels,
immediately above the frog, and more or less fulness over the coronet
of the foot. The treatment may be indicated in a few words—rest,.
absolute rest, is all-important. So long as the horse exhibits evidence
of acute pain whenever his weight is imposed on the lame limb, the
quieter he is kept the better. Warm baths, or cloths frequently moist-
ened with a mixture of equal parts of alcohol and water, are useful
adjuncts. It may be added that, in all cases of serious injury of the
stifle, the hip-joint, or the pelvis, the horse is able to bring his heels
“fair and square” upon the floor. In fracture of either the navicular
or coffin bone, lameness sometimes continues long after recovery. It
may turn out permanent.

To Cure Founder.

Clean out the bottom of the foot thoroughly, hold up firmly in a hor-
izontal position, and pour in a tablespoonful of spirits of turpentine, if
the cavity will hold that much; if not, pour in what it will hold with-
out running over; touch the turpentine with a red hot iron (this will
set it on fire); hold the hoof firmly in this position till it burns out, and
care must be taken that none runs on the hair of the hoof, lest the skin
be burned. [If all the feet are affected, burn turpentine in all of them.
Relief will speedily follow, and-the animal will be ready for service in a
short time. 2. The seeds of the sunflower—a pint of the whole seed
—given in his feed, immediately the founder is discovered, 3. By
standing the foundered horse up to his belly in water.

Galled Back.

So soon as an abrasion is discovered on the back of a horse, the ani-
mal should be excused from duty for a few days; the abraded parts
should be dressed twice daily with a portion of the tincture of aloes
and myrrh. This simple treatment will soon heal the parts. Should
there be no abrasion, but simply a swelling attended with heat, pain
and tenderness, the parts should be frequently sponged with cold water.
Occasionally the skin undergoes the process of hardening (induration).
This is a condition of the parts known to the farriers of old as “‘sit-
fast,’ and the treatment is as follows: Procure 1 oz. of iodine, and

i... 00

RECIPES. 49

smear the indurated spot with a portion of the same twice daily. Some
cases of galled back and shoulders are due to negligence and abuse:
yet many animals, owing toa peculiarity of constitution, will chafe, as
the saying is, in those parts which come in contact with the collar, and

neither human foresight nor mechanical means can prevent the same.
Kicking in Stall. :

To prevent your horse from kicking in the stall, fasten a short trace-
chain, about 2 feet long, by a strap to each hind foot. A better way is
to have the stalls made wide enough so that the horse can turn in them
easily. Close them with a door or bars, and turn the animal loose.
After a while he will forget the habit, and stand tied without further

trouble.
Flies on Horses.

As a preventive of horses being teased by flies, take 2 or 3 small
handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour 2 or 3 quarts of cold water;
let it infuse for one night, and pour the whole next morning into a
kettle, and let it boil for a+ of an hour. When it becomes cold it will
be fit for use. No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and, be-
fore the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most
irritable be smeared over with the liquor—namely, between and upon
the ears,the neck, the flanks, etc. Not only the lady or gentleman who
rides out for pleasure will derive pleasure from the walnut leaves thus
prepared, but the coachman, the wagoner, and all others who use horses
during the summer. Or take smart weed and soak it in water, and in
the morning apply it to the horse, all over him, with a sponge. A de-
coction of quassia chips, made by boiling them in water, has also been
recommended.

Grease.

This is a white, offensive discharge from the skin of the heels. Wash
the part well with warm soap-suds twice a day, and if the swelling be
great apply a poultice to it; when the sores are cleansed touch them
with a rag or feather dipped in a solution of chloride of zinc, 1 grain to
the ounce of water.

Inflammation. of Kidneys.

Symptoms: Gradual loss of flesh, pain across the back, impaired
action of the hind extremities, and the frequent passing of urine, which
is very highly colored. In treating this affection, the horse should be
allowed perfect rest, and he should also have a generous diet of easily
digested food, and plenty of mucilaginous drinks. The loins may be
rubbed every third or fourth day with mustard, and 1 drachm of tartar

50 THE HORSE.
emetic given every night. This medicine can be conveniently adminis-
tered mixed with the food. ag

Warts on Horse’s Nose,

Dissolve 4 lb. of alum in a quart of water; with a brush, or cloth wet
the warts twice each day for 4 days, and they will disappear. Another
remedy is to smear the warts with salted butter.

‘To Cure Warts.

. The safest and most effectual caustic for destroying warts is chromic
acid. Having first picked off the rough outer surface of the warts so
as to make them bleed, apply, by means of a small wooden spatula, a
little of the dry acid, rubbing it well in. This will cause a free dis-
charge of watery fluid from the surface. In a few days the wart is
converted into a tough, leather-like substance, which ultimately falls off,
generally leaving a healthy sore, which soon heals,

Worms in Hiorses.

1, Give every morning, one hour before feeding, 3 drs. of sulphate of
iron and two drs. of assafcedita; and every night, for one week, throw
up an injection of 1 oz. oil of turpentine and 10 oz. of linseed oil. Green
food is to be preferred. 2. White ash bark burnt to ashes and made
into a rather very strong ley; then mix $a pt. of it with 1 pt. of warm
water, and give all 2 or 3 times daily.

Contracted 'Tendons.

First try the effect of lowering the heels a little more than the toe at
each shoeing, and applying a shoe with a plate projecting an inch or
two in front of the toe. If there is much tenderness of the back sin-
ews on pressure, this form of shoeing must be avoided until that has
been removed. The thickened tendons must be rubbed daily with a
mixture in equal parts of strong iodine ointment and blue ointment,
until blistering takes place, when it may be discontinued until the
effects have passed off. The horse should have a yard or small paddock
to run in where he is not very likely to be excited to vigorous or irreg-
ular action, or, if kept in-doors, let it be in a roomy box, and give a
moderate amount of walking exercise daily, Should several months of
this sort of treatment fail to restore in part, it may be advisable, per-
haps, to have the back sinews cut through.

Hoof-Bound.

Cut down several lines from the coronet to the toe all around the
hoof, and fill the cuts with tallow and soap mixed; take off the shoes,
and (if you can spare him) turn the animal into a wet meadow, where

RECIPES. . 51

his feet will be kept moist. Never remove the sole nor burn the lines
down, as this increases instead of diminishing the evil.

Cracked Hoof-Quarter.

Many plans have been devised by which to heal a quarter crack—
such as scoring with a knife, blistering, cutting with a sharp, hot iron,

riveting and the like, all which, in many cases, have proved a failure.
_ If the. following directions are adopted, the fore feet will be sound in
-8 months. Above the crack, and next to the hair, cut with your knife

an incision 4 inch long, crosswise of the crack, and about 4 inch deep.
Now from the incision draw a line + inch each side, parallel with the
crack, down to the shoe; then with your knife follow those lines, and
cut through the enamel or crust of the foot. Now there is a piece of

the crust to be taken out. This is done by loosening the top of the

piece next to the hair with your knife, then with your forceps take hold

‘of the piece and pull it off; that leaves a space of 4 inch of the crust

taken out from the hair down to the shoe. Fill the cavity with tar, and
lace on a soft piece of leather to keep the tar in its place.

Keep the animal quiet for 3 or 4 days, and he is ready to drive, but it
is best not to use him until the foot is perfectly sound. Shoe witha
bar shoe, leaving some spring to the heel, so it will not bear hard upon

the weak quarter, and in 3 months you will have a sound foot.

To Deodorize Hiorse Stables.

Sawdust, wetted with sulphuric acid, diluted with 40 parts of water,

_ and distributed about horse stables, will, it is said, remove the disagree-

able ammoniacal smell, the sulphuric acid combining with the ammonia
to form a salt. Chloride of lime slowly evolves chlorine, which will do
the same thing, but then the chlorine smells worse than the ammonia. .
Sulphuric acid, on the contrary, is perfectly inodorous. The mixture
must be kept in shallow earthenware vessels. The sulphuric acid used
alone, either diluted or strong, would absorb more or less of the ammo-
nia, but there would be danger of spilling it about, and causing serious
damage; and, beside this, the sawdust offers a large surface to the
floating gas.
Itch.

To cure a horse affected with the itch, first reduce his daily allowance
of food, putting him on a low diet, and then give him a teaspoonful of a
mixture of equal parts of sulphur and antimony, and at the end of a
week or 10 days the sores will have disappeared, and the horse will be
covered with a fine coat of new hair. ;

THE HORSE,

Q1
ro)

Displaced Knec-Pan.

Feed the horse well on oats, barley, and sound hay; give hima
drachm of powdered phosphate of iron daily in his food; keep ina
stall with a perfectly smooth and level floor, and not less than 54 or 6
feet wide; apply a shoe with a bar welded to the toe, projecting 2 or 3
inches, and then let it be turned up; rub the joint with an ointment
made of 1 drachm of powdered cantharides to 4 an oz. of lard, repeat-
ing the application next day if it has not blistered. When a blister
rises, wash it off with soap and warm water, and then anoint the part
daily with lard, until the scab and other effects have passed off, when
another blister may. be applied.

' Inflammation and Swelling of the Legs.

Rest, and the application of an active blister to the swollen parts, will
effect a cure. No better blister can be used than the following: Take
resin and black pitch, each 4 parts, beeswax 3 parts, sweet oil 11 parts,
Spanish flies 6 parts, euphorbium 2 parts. Melt the resin, pitch, and
wax first, then add the oil, and when thoroughly mixed remove from
the fire; lastly, add very slowly the powdered flies and euphorbium.
Before the blister is applied the hair should be cut close off, and the
skin, if scurfy, washed with Castile soap and warm water, after which
it must be thoroughly dried, and the blistering ointment rubbed in for
10 minutes. After applying the blister, the horse's head should be tied
up to prevent his biting the part, or rubbing it with his nose. At the
expiration of 2 or 8 days most horses may be set at liberty. In about
a week rub sweet oil over the blistered part.

Lampas.

This consists in a swelling of the first bar of the upper palate. It is
cured by rubbing the swelling 2 or 3 times a day with 4 an ounce of
alum and the same quantity of double refined sugar mixed with a little
honey.

To Cure Broken Legs.

Instead of summarily shooting the horse, in the greater number of
fractures it is only necessary to partially sling the horse by means of a
broad piece of sail or other strong cloth, placed under the animal’s belly,
furnished with 2 breechings and 2 breast-girths, and, by means of ropes
and pulleys attached to a cross beam above, he is elevated or lowered,
as may be required. By the adoption of this plan every facility is
allowed for the satisfactory treatment of the fractures,

Liniment for Galled Back of Horses.
White lead moistened with milk. When milk is not to be procured

RECIPES. 43

Wound Balsam.

Gum benzoin in powder, 6 oz., balsam of tolu in powder, 8 0z., gum
storax, 2 0z., frankincense in powder, 2 oz., gum myrrh in powder, 2 oz.,
socotorine aloes in powder, 3 0z., alcohol, 1 gal. Mix them all together

and put them in a digester, and give them a gentle heat for 3 or 4 days,
and then strain.

Sore Breasts.

_ This generally occurs in the spring, at the commencement of plough-
ing. At times the fault is in having poor old collars, and not having the
collar properly fitted to the horse’s breast; and, at others, the hames are
either too tight or too loose. There is a great difference in horses
about getting chafed or galled, and at times it has seemed to be impos-
sible to keep their breasts from getting sore; but a thorough applica-
tion of strong alum water, or white oak bark, to the breast of the
animal, 3 days before going to work, will toughen them so that they
will not get sore. Another excellent plan is, when you let your team
rest for a few moments during work, to raise the collar and pull it a
little forward, and rub the breast thoroughly with your naked hand.

Big Head.

When this disease occurs, every care must be devoted to improving
the general health. Let work be regular and moderate. Have the sta-
ble clean, dry, and well ventilated. Feed on sound hay and oats, either
bruised or cooked. Withhold all Indian corn—above all if raw and
hard. 4 or 5 Ibs. of linseed cake may be given daily. Give every day,
in the feed, 2 drachms of phosphate of iron, and 4 drachms of powdered
gentian.

Liquid Blister.

Take 4a pint of linseed oil, 1 pint of spirits of turpentine, and 4 oz.
of aqua ammonia; shake well and it is fit for use. Apply every third
hour until it blisters.

Big Leg.

To cure, apply the above Liquid Blister every third hour until it
blisters. In 3 days wash the leg with linseed oil. In 6 days wash it
clean with soap and water. Repeat every six days until the swelling
goes down. If there should be any callous left, apply spavin ointment.

Breaking Down.

The suspensory ligament is attached superiorly to the back part of
the knee, and inferiorly to the back of the fetlock joint. It is elastic

-and gives springiness to the limb. In motion and in standing it pas-

sively supports the horse’s fetlock. If this ligament is torn or cut

44 THE HORSE.

across, the joint comes to the ground and the toe turns up; if severely
strained, the fetlock descends unnaturally low. In breaking down, the
fetlock is almost completely torn across, and the fetlocks come nearly
or completely to the ground. Considerable swelling soon ensues above
and behind the fetlock; there is great pain and symptomatic fever, and
in severe cases the tendons are generally sprained. When the suspen-
sory ligament is completely ruptured, and where the injury occurs in
both fore legs, treatment need not be attempted. In severe cases the
leg should be immersed in a pail of water, and kept in it for several
days. When the pain and fever subside, wet bandages may be used.
A dose of opening medicine should also be given. Bran mashes and
hay should constitute the horse’s diet at the first, and when pain and fever
subside the diet may be more liberal. In bad cases a high-heeled shoe
may be applied, or the horse may be slung so as to relieve the affected
leg of weight.
Physic Ball.

Take 2 oz. of aloes, 1 oz. of turpentine, and 1 oz. of flour; make into
a paste with a few drops of water, wrap in a paper, and give them with
a bailing iron.

Fulness of Glood.

When this condition appears, the eyes appear heavy, dull, red or in-
flamed, and are frequently closed as if asleep; the pulse is small and
oppressed ; the heat of the body somewhat increased; the legs swell;
the hair also rubs off. Horses that are removed from grass to a warm
stable, and full fed on hay and corn, and not sufficiently exercised, are
very subject to one or more of these symptoms. By regulating the
quantity of food given to him, by proper exercise and occasional laxa-
tives, a cure may soon be effected.

Nasal Catarrh or Corryza.

This malady is commonly known as a cold; it is an inflammation of
the membrane lining the interior of the nose, and is observed in all the
domestic animals. It occurs frequently after sudden changes in the
temperature of the atmosphere, which checks or diminishes largely the
action of the skin. In the early stage the animal is feverish; the mem-
brane of the nose is dry and infected ; the animal also frequently
sneezes and coughs. There is a watery mucous discharge from one or
both nostrils, which by degrees assumes a yellowish color. In young
animals this affection is generally associated with swellings beneath the
jaws. When the disease extends over a longer period than a fortnight it
assumes a chronic type. Zreatment.—Dissolve 4 an oz. of nitre ina pint
of water, and administer this to the patient daily, or it may be mixed

RECIPES. 53

oil may be substituted. 1 or 2 cz. mixed at a time will be sufficient for
a month.
oe Hoof Ointment,

Take 4 a Ib. of lard and 4 oz. of resin. Heat them over a slow fire
until melted ; take the pot off the fire, add 10z. of pulverized verdigris ;
stir well to prevent it from running over. When partially cool add 2 oz.
of turpentine. Apply it from the hair down 1 inch. Work the horse

all the time.
Liniment for Bruises, Sprains, cic.

Take 1 pint of alcohol, 4 oz. of Castile soap, 4 oz. of gum camphor, +
oz. of sal ammoniac. When these are dissolved, add 1 oz. of Jaudanum,
1 oz. origanum, 4 0z. oil of sassafras, and 2 oz. spirits of hartshorn.

Bathe freely.
Nasal Gleet,.

or running at the nose—can be cured by taking 4a Ib. of resin, 4 lb.
of blue vitriol, and 4 oz. of ginger, grinding them all fine, and giving
the horse a spoonful 2 or 3 times a day.

Palsy.

An attack of this kind is frequently followed by wasting of the affected
muscles—they lose their rounded form, and present a more or less
withered aspect. The most common causes of this disease are idleness
and plethora. It may result from accidental violence, as blows or falls.
Treament—First, apply a blister over the loins. Then give the mare one
of the following pills every morning for 8 or 10 days: Take gentian and
ginger of each 2 drachms, linseed meal 4 drachms, strychnine 5 grains.
Mix with water for 1 pill. The diet should be light, and the mare kepi
quiet in the stable, or, better, a box stall.

Over-Reaching.

Make the shoe its natural length, or a trifle longer—with the calk of
the forward shoes high and the heel calk low. The hoof will then stand
further forward, and be more removed from the stride of the hind foot,
which, being shod with a low toe calk and high heel calk, will strike the
ground before it reaches the fore foot: An inter fering horse generally
strikes with the inside of the noof, about 2 inches from the toe; there-
406 make the shoe straighter on the inside, and rasp the hoof ‘accord-
in

ek Acute Precumonia.

They are first taken with a dry, depressed cough, loss of appetite, but
thirsty ; pulse feeble, but frequently the extremities are cold—some-
times when first taken, at others they retain their natural heat until the

54 THE HORSE.

disease assumes its worst appearance, and then the legs become cold,
Respiration is very active and laborious; the animal pants all the time,
stands with fore legs widely separated, never lies down, and is loath to
move. Some discharge copiously from both nostrils, a thick, slimy
matter, sometimes mixed with blood—in that case the whole body is
excessively hot, and the extremities also, but other symptoms the same.
The treatment in the early stage of this disease should be: 1. An abun-
dant supply of cool, fresh air. 2. Abstinence from grain or corn. 3.
Extra clothing and warm bandages to the legs. In all cases it is desir-
able that the patient should at once be removed to an airy, loose box.
If these simple remedies do not bring about a subsidence of the attack
within a short time, recourse must be had to medical treatment.

Rupture.

Rupture or hernia is the protrusion of a bowel, or some other part,
from its proper cavity. It is sometimes congenital, and may then be re-
duced at the same time that castration is performed. At other times
rupture may be produced by blows, kicks or falls. A hernia is danger-
ous to life when it becomes compressed. or strangulated by a stricture
at the orifice of protrusion. Skillful surgical aid should always be ob-
tained in any such case at once. But sometimes, in the absence of a
vetenarian, any one may restore the gut by introducing the hand into
the bowel and drawing it up; the other hand, at the same time, making
gentle pressure upon the swelling in the abdomen. No violence should
ever be used in attempting this; and the bowels should first be emptied
by a clyster.

Strangics.

Feed with light, cooling (green if it can be had) food; mix the food
with sassafras tea, in which a spoonful of powdered sulphur and a tea-
spoonful of saltpetre have been added.

Staggers,

This is a functional disorder of the brain, which, when once it has de-
clared itself, is said to be beyond cure. The following prescription may
be tried: Give a mess twice per week composed of 1 gal. of bran, 1
tablespoonful of sulphur, 1 spoonful of saltpetre, 1 quart of boiling sas-

safras tea, 1} oz. assafoetida. Keep the horse from cold water for half
a day afterwards

Thrush.
This a discharge of very offensive matter from the cleft of the frog.

It is inflammation of the lower surface of the sensible frog, and during
which pus is secreted together with, or iustead of horn. In its treat-

‘ RECIPES. 55

ment, almost any astringent. substance will check thrush in its early
stage. Tar and common salt mixed is a very good application, and tar
an@ sulphate of zinc can also be highly recommended. Before the in-
troduction of either of these preparations, the frog should be carefully
inspected and all decayed parts removed. The dressing must be pressed
to the bottom of the cleft and commissures of the frog, and this should
be repeated every other day or twice a week.

Water Farcin.

Symptoms: The horse is dull and loses his appetite, and swells along
the belly or chest and between the fore legs. To cure: Rowel in the
breast, and along each side of the chest, as far as the swelling goes.
Leave the rowels in until the swelling goes down. Give a spoonful of
cleansing powders morning.and night.

Stoppage of Urine,

Symptoms: Frequent attempts to urinate, looking round at his sides,
lying down, rolling and stretching. To cure, take 4 Ib. of hops, 8 drs.
oil of camphor; grind and mix. Make into 3 pills. Give 1 every day,
with a drench made of a small spoonful of saltpetre and 2 oz. of water.
This will cure, as a general thing.

To Cure a Wen.

Take equal parts of soft soap and slaked lime, well mixed. Lance
the wen at the time of making the application, or two or three days
after. Two or three applications will cure.

To Improve Wind in Horses.

It will be found, if tar water and powdered charcoal are mixed with
the horse’s feed, that it will have a most beneficial effect on his wind and
condition.

f Botts.

Botts are the larve of the gad fly, of which there are three different
kinds. The female gad fly, during the summer months, deposits her ova
on the horse’slegs or sides, and they become firmly attached to the hair.
After remaining on the leg for some time, perhaps 4 or 5 days, they be-
come ripe, and at this time the slightest application of warmth and
moisture is sufficient to bring forth the latent larve. At this period, if
the tongue of the horse chances to touch the egg, its operculum is thrown
open, and a small worm is produced, which readily adheres to the tongue,
and with the food is conveyed into the stomach, and therein is lodged
and hatched. It clings to the cuticular coat by means of its ternacula,

. between which is its mouth; and in such a firm manner does it adhere

56 THE HORSE,

to the lining of the stomach, that it will suffer its body to be pulled
asunder without quitting its hold. Botts are often supposed to do a good
deal of harm, but except in cases where they accumulate in very large
numbers, we are of the opinion that they are almost harmless, because
in ordinary cases they are chiefly attached to the cuticular coat, and the
cuticular coat of the stomach is not possessed of a great degree of sensi-
bility. Most horses that have been running at pasture during the sum-
mer months become affected more or less with botts, and their presence
in the stomach is thus accounted for. When a horse is troubled with
the botts, is may be known by the occasional nipping at their own sides
and by red pimples and projections on the inner surface of the upper
lip, which may be seen plainly by turning up the lip. To remove them
take of new milk 2 quarts, molasses 1 quart, and give the horse the
whole amount. 15 minutes afterward give 2 quarts of very warm sage
tea, and 30 minutes after the tea give 1 pint of linseed oil (or enough to
operate as a physic). Lard has been used, when the oil could not be
obtained, with the same success. The cure will be complete, as the
milk and molasses cause the botts to let go their hold, the tea puckers
them up, and the oil carries them entirely away. The spring is theonly
season in which there is a chance to effectually remove them.

Inflammation of the Lungs,

First bleed thoroughly, then give tinct. veratum veride, 4 oz; lauda-
num, 4 0z; tinct. aconite, +0z. Shake well, and give a tablespoon half
full every three hours, in a pint of water well sweetened ; and if the
pulse is not reduced in a short time, increase the dose to a spoonful
until the fever abates. As soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and
lie down naturally, keep him on hay alone, with a few carrots or pota-
toes, and daily give a bran mash with saltpetre, crude antimony and
sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent dropsy on the
chest, which is a sequel of inflammation of the lungs.

Colic in Horses,

Sulph. ether, 1 pt., aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pt., sweet spirits
nitre, 2 pts., opium, } Ib., assafoetida (pure), 4 lb., camphor, 4 1b. Put
in a large bottle and let stand from ten to fifteen days. Dose, 2 ounces
every two. three, or four hours, until the horse is relieved. This medi-
cine is a sure cure for the worst form of flatulent colic, if taken in
time. It should be given in sweetened water.

RULES AND REGULATIONS

FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF

TROTTING AND RACING

OVER THE

oo UNION COURSE, LONG ISLAND,

“4

_The following are the Rules and Regulations for the government of all trotting and
‘pacing matches to come off on the Union Course, Long Island :
Rule 1—Nature of Rules.—All matches or sweepstakes which shall come
off over this course will be governed by these rules, unless the contrary is mutually
agreed upon by the parties making such match or stake.

2. Power of Postponement.—In caseof unfavorable weather, or other un-

avoidable cause, all purses, matches, sweepstakes announced to come off, to which the
proprietors contribute, they shall have the power to postpone to a future day, upon
giving notice of the same.

3. Qualifications of Horses Starting.—Horses trained in the same
stable, or owned in part by the same person, within three days, shall not start for a
purse, and horses so entered shall forfeit their entrance. A horse starting alone
shall receive but one half of the purse. Horses deemed by the judges not fair trot-
ting horses shall be ruled off previous to, or distanced at the termination of the heat.

4. Entries.—All entries shall be made under a seal, inclosing the entrance money
(ten per cent. on the purse), and addressed to the proprietor, at such time and place
as may have been previously designated by advertisement.

5; Wei Rite to be Carried,.—Every trotting horse starting for match, purse
or stake, shall carry one hundred and forty-five pounds; if in harness, the weight of
the sulky and harness not to be considered. Pacing horses liable to the same rule.

6. Distances.—aA distance for mile heats, best three in five, shall be one hun-
dred yards; tor one mile heats, eighty yards; and for every additional mile, an ad-
ditional eighty yards.

Time between Heats.—The time between heats shall be, for one mile,
twenty minutes ; for every additional mile, an additional five minutes.

8 Power of Judges.—There shall be chosen by the proprietors of the course,
orstewards, three judges to preside over a race for purses, and by them an additional
judge shall be appointed for the distance stand ; they may, also, during or previous
to a race, appoint inspectors at any part of the course, whose reports, and theirs
alone, shall be received of any foul riding or driving.

9. Difference of Opinion between Judzges.—Should a difference of
iin exist between the judgesin the starting stand on any question, a majority
shall govern.

10. Judges’ Duties.—The judges shall order the horses saddled or harnessed
five minutes previous to the time appointed for starting ; any rider or driver causing
undue detention after being called up, by making false starts or otherwise, the
judges may give the word to start without reference to the situation of the horse so
offending, unless convinced such delay is unavoidable on the part of the rider or
driver, in which case not more than thirty minutes shall be consumed in attempting
‘to start; and at the expiration of that time, the horse or horses ready to start shall
receive the word.

il. Starting Horses.—The pole shall be drawn for by the judges; the horse
winning a heat shall, for the succeeding heats, be entitled to a choice of the track ;
on coming out on the last stretch each horse shall retain the track first selected : any
horse deviating shall be distanced.

12. Riders or Drivers,—Riders or driers shall not be permitted to start un-
less dressed in jockey style. (5

7)

58 RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE UNION COURSE.

Weight of Riders and Drivers.—Riders and drivers shall weigh in the
presence of one or more of the judges previous to starting; and after a heat, are to
come up to the starting-stand, and not dismount until so ordered by the judges; any
rider or driver disobeying shall, on weighing, be precluded from the benefit of the
weight of his saddle and whip, and if not full weight, shall be distanced.

14. Penalty for Foul Riding or Driving.—A rider or driver commit-
ting any act which the judges may deem foul riding or driving, shall be distanced.

1. Herse Breaking.—Should any horse break from his trot or pace, 1f shall
be the duty of the rider or driver to pull his horse to a trot or pace immediaiely, and
in case of the rider or driver refuse to do so, the penalty shall be that the next best
horse shall have the heat; if the rider or driver should comply with the above, and
he should gain by such break, twice the distance so gained shall be taken away on
the coming out; a horse breaking on the score shall not lose the heat by so doing.

16. ‘Khe Winning Horse.—A horse must win two heats to be entitled to the
urse, unless he distance all other horses in one heat. A distanced horse in a déad
eat shall not start again.

17. Relative to Heats.—A horse not winning one heat in three shall not start
for a fourth heat, unless such horse shall have made a dead heat. When a dead heat
is raade betwen two horses, that if either had won the heat, the race would have been
decided, they two only shall start again ; in races best three in five, a horse shall wia
one beat in five to be allowed to start for the sixth heat, unless such horse shall have
made a dead heat; such horses as are prevented from starting by this rule shall be
considered drawn, and not distanced.

18. On Heats and Distancecs.—If two horses each win a heat, and neither
are distanced in the race, the one coming out ahead on the last heat to be considered
the best. The same rule to be applied to horses neither winning a heat and neither
distanced. If one horse wins a heat, he is better than one that does not, provided
he coes not get distanced in the race; then the other, if not distanced, shall be best.
A horse that wins a heat and is distanced is better than one not winning a heat and
being distanced in the same heat. A horse distanced in the second heat is better than
one distanced in the first heat.

' 19. Horses Drawn.—Horses drawn before the conclusion of a race shall be
considered distanced.

20. Outside Bets,—In all matches made play or pay; outside bets not to be
considered play or pay, unless so understood by the parties.

21. OF Play or Pay Matches.—All moneys bet on play or pay matches by
outside betters are not considered play or pay.

22. Betting.—Absent Betters,—A confirmed bet cannot be let off without
mutual consent. If either party be absent at the time of trotting, and the money
be not staked, the party present may declare the bet void in the presence of the judges,
unless some party will stake the money betted for the absentee

23. Compromised Matches.—All bets made by outside betters on compro-
mised matches are considered drawn.

24. Betters of Odds, etc,—The person who betts the odds has a right to choose
the horse or the field. "When he has chosen his horse the field is what starts against
him; but there is no field unless one starts with him. If odds are bet without nam-
ing the horses before the trot is over, it must be determined as the odds were at time
of making it. Bets made in trotting are not determined till the purse is won, if the
heat is not specified at the time of betting.

25. Horses Excluded from Starting or Distanced,—All bets made
on horses precluded from starting (by Rule 19), being distanced in the race, or on
such horses against each other, shall be drawn.

26. Im Cases of Dispute and Improper Conduct.—tn all cases of
dispute not provided for by the Rules, the judges for the day will decide finally. In
case of a trot or match being proved to their sutifacstion to have been made or con-
ducted ery ead or dishonestly on the part of the principals, they shall have tke
power to declare all bets void.

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How to Behave.—A Hand-Book of Etiquette and Guide to True
Politeness.— CoNTENTS.—Etiquette andits uses ; Introductions; Cutting acquaint-
ances; Letters of introduction; Street etiquette; Domestic etiquette and duties ;
Visiting ; Receiving company; Evening parties; The lady’s toilet; The gentle-
man’s toilet ; "Invitations; Etiquette of the ball-room ; General rules of conversa-
tion; Bashfulness, and how to overcome it; Dinner parties; Table etiquette;
Carving; Servants; Travelling; Visiting cards; Letter-writing; Conclusion.
This is the best book of the kind yet published, and every person wishing to be con-
sidered well-bred, who wishes to understand the customs of good society, and to
avoid incorrect and vulgar habits, should send for a copy. Mailed for 15
cents.

The Model Letter-Writer.—A Comprehensive and Complete
Guide and Assistant for those who desire to carry on epistolary correspondence—
containing instructions for writing Letters of Introduction; Letters on Business;
Letters ot Recommendation; Applications for Employment; Letters of Congratu-
lation; Letters of Condolence; Letters of Friendship and Relationship; Love
Letters; Notes of Invitation; Letters of Favor, of Advice, and of Eucuse, ete.,
ete., together with appropriate Answers toeach. This is an invaluable book for
those persons who have not had sufficient practice to enable them to write letters
without great effort. Mailed for 15 cents.

The Complete Fortune-Teller and Dream Book.—tThis
book contains a complete Dictionary of Dreams, alphabetically arranged, with a
clear interpretation of each dream, and the lucky numbers that belong toit. It
includes Palmistry, or telling fortunes by the lines of the hand ; fortune-telling by
the grounds in a tea or coffee cup; how to read your future life by the white of an
egg; tells how to know who your future husband will be, and how soon you will
be married; fortune-telling by cards ; Hymen’s lottery ; good and bad omens, ete.,
ete. Mailed for 15 cents.

The Lover’s Companion.—A book no lover should be without.
It gives Handkerchief, Parasol, Glove and Fan Flirtations; also, Window and
Dining-table Signalling; The Language of Flowers ; How tokiss deliciously ; Love
Letters, and how to write them, with specimens; Bashfulness and Timidity, and
how to overcome them, etc., etc. Mailed for 25 cents.

Address FRANK M, REED,
139 Eighth Strect, New York.

HEALTH HINTS.

A new book showing how to Acquire and Retain Bodily Symmetry, Health, Vigor,
and Beauty. Its contents are as follows: Laws of Beauty—Air, Sunshine, Water,
and Food—Work and Rest—Dress and Ornament—The Hair and its Management—
Skin and Complexion—the Mouth—The Eyes, Kars and Nose—The Neck, Hands, and
Feet—Growth and Marks that are Enemies of Beauty—Cosmetics and Perfumery.

Fat People.—lt gives ample rules how Corpulency may be Cured—the Fat
made Lean, Comely and Active.

Lean Peop!e.—It also gives directions, the following of which will enable
Lean, Angular, Bony or Sharp Visaged People, to be Plump and Rosy Skinned.

Gray Mair.—lIt tells how Gray Hair may be Restored to its natural color
without the aid of Dyes, Restorers, or Pomades.

Baldness.—It gives ample directions for Restoring Hair on Bald Heads, as well
as how to stop Falling of the Hair, how to Curl the Hair, etc.

Beard and Mustache. —It tells what Young Men shouid do to acquire a
Fine Silky and Handsome Beard and Mustache.

Freckles and Pimples.—It gives full directions for the Cure of Sunburn,
Freckles, Pimples, Wrinkles, Warts, etc., so that they can be entirely removed.

Cosmetics.—This chapter, among other things, gives an Analysis of Perry’s
Moth and Freckle Lotion, Balm of White Lilies, Hagan’s Magnolia Balm, Laird’s
Bloom of Youth, Phalon’s Enamel, Clark’s Restorative for the Hair, Chevalier’s Life
for the Hair, Ayer’s Hair Vigor, Professor Wood’s Hair Restorative, Hair Restorer
America, Gray’s Hair Restorative, Phalon’s Vitalia, Ring’s Vegetable Ambrosia,
Mrs. Allen’s World’s Hair Restorer, Hall’s Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer, Martha
Washington Hair Restorative, ete., ete. (no room for more), showing how the lead,

ete., in these mixtures cause disease and oftentimes premature death. Mailed for
50 cents.

The Management and Care of Infants and Children.—By
Geo Combe, M.D. This is the best book ever written on the subject, and is one that
no mother of a family can afford to be without Its usual price in the book stores is
$1.50, but it will be mailed—/he latest and most complete edition—for only 75 cents,

Address FRANK MM. REED,
139 Eighth Street, New York.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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OLD SECRETS AND NEV |

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It tells all about Electrical Psychology, Shawna how you can bioldgize any person,
and while under the influence he will do anything you may wish him, no matter how
ridiculous it may be, and he cannot help doing it; also, how to mesmerize—a secret
that has been sold over and over again for $10; How to make a person ata distance
think of you, and how to charm those you meet and make them love you, whether
they will or not.

It tells how to make the wonderful Magic or Invisible Photographs and Spirit
Pictures; the Eggs of Pharo’s Serpents, which when lighted, though but the size of
a pea, there issues from it a coiling serpent; how to perform the Davenport Brothers’
“ Spirit Mysteries”; how to copy any kind of drawing or picture, and more wonder-
ful still, to print pictures from the print itself; how to make gold and silver from
block-tin (the least said about which, the better); also, how to take impressions from
coins, and how to imitate gold and silver.

It tells how to make a horse appear as though he was badly foundered; to
make a horse temporarily lame; how to make him stand by bis food and not eat it;
how to cure a_horse from the crib or sucking wind; how to put a young countenance
on the horse ; how to cover up the heaves ; how to make him appear as if he had the
glanders; how to make a true-pulling horse baulk; how to nerve a horse that is
lame, etc., ete. These horse secrets are being continually sold at one dollar each.

It tells how to make a cheap Galvanic Battery; how to plate and gild without a
battery ; how to make a candle burn all night ; how to make a clockfor 25 cents;
how to detect counterfeit money; how to banish and prevent mosquitoes from
biting ; how to make yellow butter in winter; Circassian curling fluid; Sympathetic
or Secret Writing Ink; Colozne Water; Artificial honey; Stammering; how to
make large noses small; to cure drunkenness: to copy letters without a press ; to
obtain fresh blown flowers in wintcr: to make a good burning candle from lard ;
and scores of other wonderful things for which there is no room to mention. “ Old
Secrets and New Discoveries” is worth $5 to any person, but it will be mailed to any
address on receipt of only 50 cents.

Address FRANK ™. REED,
139 Eighth Street, New York.