he eh eh Bs Ty o- ye — Lay rie Oe aes i tas any ‘ Ne A OPP rare ey . + 44 ht » . 5 oy a) wh i OFS ye meu 2 Ay My 7y as Wi " 6b, hates Teeet he he Fa ar a i Se escent Of ; Shasta oo eee least , ‘+ Lh Anat dal 43 Fe : - oe iulatgr ol nese wile Wa alec | RN ee a Beak “ Ra Pe oe 6 bab Gate 4 Pa oe eran Leb ithdawed Hee ote et ihe ’ a Hs igth Og Mn fie rece eras i Ny RYT ‘i . cae ‘ Pea | fre ore "i " a Fh : vate met ae wee tie i sé ay: alee aa Pe aC be Cee 2h oe hes HEB ae Rg ode ¥ Cy we ‘i Pay HN ate te Uae ATL emits tee lenadan eae wy Wad . ' ee yw ne ky ogi soe ks i Pe NR he 8 i i NOTES WEST INDIES. VOL. I, BN I th ie) mB cite it fine Dean oe Ni ha “yt k fe i uf hae s! Pau | “isaac pays ogi tetas Fre 4 1 fa aE ee NE Recta he Ml se We hi oyake N OT ES: , ON THE WEST ee WRITTEN DURING THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND OF THE LATE GENERAL SIR RALPH ABERCROMBY : INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES, AND THE SETTLEMENTS CAPTURED BY THE BRITISH TROOPS, UPON THE COAST OF GUIANA; LIKEWISE REMARKS RELATING TO THE (CREOLES AND SLAVES OF THE WESTERN-COLONIES, AND ' “THE ey OF re AMERICA: WITH OCCASIONAL HINTS, REGARDING The Sealoning, or Bellow se OF HOT CLIMATES. Br GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D. OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE @F PHYSICIANS, “BEPUTY INSPFCTOR-GENERAL OF HOSPITALS TO HIS MAJESTY’S FORCES AND PHYSICIAN TO THE BLOOMSBURY DISPENSARY. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. 1. It is a flrange thing that in fea-voyages, where there is mothing to be feene, but fky and fea, men fhould make diaries ; but in land-trauaile, wherin fo much is to bee obferued, for the moft part they omit it; as if chance were fitter to be re- giftered than obferuation. Lorp VERULAMe London : PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST) REES, ANB ORMMAy PATERNOSTER-ROW., 1806. re By a sna a ay PA \ at} i, 8 ae : Hy ~ iy ete ihe Pe'eN mith CS gees aa er dele We ' ge ghey Shei? Piby cH NY , yf ve¥ : RAE = DEDICATION. ——_—_-—_----—- (CB SRT AA poo RIE NDS 12. Loooxine round, as it is faid authors are wont, for a great perfonage, to whofe name I might dedicate my work, I have not found it poflible to fix upon any one, to whom [ could with fo much propriety confign it, as fies)... ,.. 21s Parungt! Accept, then, Benign Power! Thine offspring: cherifh it, - even as Thou haft begotten it: and caufe Thy warmelt influence ever to animate the heart of — | Thy faithful and devoted Servant, THE AUTHOR. Great Ruffll Street, Bloomfury, March 15, 1806. Ag o \ ‘ i t N \ )! » * a ia 5 ’ , » Z x 1 \ - ' = / - 4 ’ { ~ ' oot / \ ‘ , ' y ’ ‘ . ; Clee 4 , 1 ' / ‘ 2 ‘ ‘ 4 ‘ . \ 2 ' , \ i x oe ) } + =- , ‘ ’ ’ , - € . , < - ‘\ f \ \ » , , i] pL A F b ~~ , \ . ~ / x ‘ ii { 7 ¢ : ‘ ~ A / \ ® v ~ » - * \ ' 1 s ‘ y 1 wd \ / ’ , s ie vs x PE EP PoC hE, From the entreaties of a Friend the following <¢ Notes”? were written for his private eye :—from the folicitations of other friends they are now offered to the eyeof the Public. The former were tender perfuafions, and, in obeying them, the -author had much and fincere gratification: he withes he could feel as well affured that he is pur- fuing the path of wifdom, by yielding to the latter. But he is too fenfible that what may be amufing, or may, even, be deemed valuable, in the clofet of friendfhip, may be very unfit to meet the lefs-pre- judiced judgmen: of the world; and he is not without many apprehenfions, left a flattering par- tiality—a partiality. which often deals praife, where no merit is due, fhould have induced him to pre-. fent to the Public, what ought never to have efcaped beyond the limits ef private perufal. A 4 Vill Confcious how little his ** Notes’? are calcu-. lated to withftand the fcrutinizing feverity of cri- ticifm, he may obferve that, at no time, during the period of writing them, had hea thought that they were deftined to appear at the bar of the pub- lic. To fulfil the wifhes of one, whofe fentiments and opinions were dear to him, was a grateful tafk : it was congenial to his feelings, and, regard- lefs of ftudied rules, he performed it with all the freedom of familiar intercourfe. He, daily, devoted to his friend the few lait minutes, previous to em- bracing his pillow: it, confequently, happéned that his remarks were, frequently, traced with a drowfy pen, or hurried over with a wearied and re- Juctant arm: but, from adopting this habit, the bufy occupation of the day, fuffered no interruption ; 5 all the occurrences were noted, whilft they were {trongly alive in the memory ; and thofe who have known the privation of a long and perilous, abfence from their home, and the objects of their efteem, will comprehend the many happy aflociations, ° which were, thus, brought to fweeten the hours of repofe. At the time of the author’s arrival in | the Wet Indies every thing, in the tropical regions, was new to him. His defire to obtain iitorniiene was ardent, and without waiting to digeft his remarks ae Tae — , 7 SA es ee ene a Sow ya ee ee into a fyftematic train—to flamp them with the importance of method—or te improve them by more mature obfervation, he endeavoured to con- vey, to his friend, a correct and faithful reprefenta- tion of the feelings imprefled upon his mind, by the novel fcenes around him, whilft he was yet a ftranger, and before habit and familiarity had weakened their effect. He fears that the frequent repetitions, necel- fary to this mode of communication, will be found to be more tedious, and, in fome inftances, even more multiplied than a “* thrice told tale,”? but he. - faw no way of avoiding them, without altering the whole plan of the work, and depriving it of the only merit, which he feels it has any title to claim, viz. that of giving the occurrences, precifely as they paffed before the éye. He was not engaged in a deliberate voyage of difcovery; mor did the bufy and anxious duties of his appointment allow him time to devote to purfuits of minute inveftica- tion. The utmoft he could hope was to catch events as they pafled, and faithfully to note them ; from the impreffion of the fleeting moment: and, if it fhould be obje@ted to him that the remarks are not always of high importance, he would obferve that it is not from great occurrences, alone, that a corre judgment is formed of men | < Uy and things. It is more from the daily, common round, than from the great and blazoned events, that a juft knowledge is acquired of the cha~ racters of individuals :—perhaps, alfo, of empires, nations, and colonies. CONTENTS THE FIRST VOLUME. \ LETTER 1 Concerning the correfpondence of diflant friends. Difap- pointment the author's friend avill be likely to experience iz the correfpondence folicited. Sfourney to Southampton. Mail coach affociates. The author joins the army—reports bimfelf at head quarters. His fenfations upon placing dinfelf under military command. Military hofpital. Au- thor’s purfuits upon the day 24 bis arrival at 8outhamp- LOite in ree - a Pa age f LED PER. I Scenery, promenades, amufements, Sc. of Southampton. Its many accommodaticns for the fick and the well, Reflections upon viftting the encampment near Southampton. Remarks sipon the difcouraging fentiments conveyed to the troops. dhe author obtains leave of abjence to return to London. Probable miftake refpetiing the author, and fome of his comrades. The utility of perfons engaged in the fervice accommedating themfelves to circumflances. Facility 9 of gelding to events a leading feature in the charactir of i oe XI French. Reflections upon this principle as forming a cott- traft between the French and Englifo. Further obferva- tions upon the strench character. Hi Page 16 \ LETTER - Ii. The author returns to London with Doétor Mafter. They are ordered to join the St. Domingo flagf, at Cork.’ Au- thor paffes a few days with his friends. - Provides new - Jupplies of baggage. Medical officers? uniform. 26 ET TER A Author returns to Southampton. Defiinaticn of the Ulyffes, reported to be changed. Expedition fill delayed. Author vifits the taeatre and public rooms, at Southampton. The-~ 7 atrical Corps. - - 28 BETTER V. ; Author and bis comrades detained in fufpenfe at Port/mouth. Objects commonly noticed by flrangers in and about that ‘a place. Port/mouth different in time of war and of peace. Hint that in peace it might be an ceconomical retirement for prodigals. Anecdote fhewing its extravagance in time of war. ' Profligacy obferved upon the ftreets of Portf- mouth. Defeription of the drefs and perfon of a“ Portf- mouth Poll.” Progrefs of a long abfent tar, upon lending at Portfmouth. Vifit to the dock-yard. Honorable re-— treat of Admiral Cornwallis. The Hhaflar hofpital. - In- tended military hofpital at Gofport. Obliging attention of Dr. Lind. Author addreffed by a bounty-man at the Haflar. The ramparts. Obfervations on the fad neceffity of man fortifying himfeif againft the ravages of bis own Wpeciet. 7) 4) = = - ee X11 LETTER: VI. “futher receives infiruGions to proceed to Cork in the Bridge- _avater tranfport. Is offered an exchange from the St. Domingo to the Leeward Tfand fat. Lmbarkation of troops. Tempefiuous fcenery at Portf{mouth. Author vifits the * Circus. Adventure of a Britifb tar at this theatre. Author dodges at the Widow Butler's. Is led into religious contro - ver[y with his hofte/s. Obtains her blefjing, by prefcribing a fimple food for ber children. 2 Page co LEV PER Wil Author goes to Spithead and St. Helen's with Dr. Henderfon, gn fearch of the Bridgewater tranfport. They return to Portfmouth unfuccefsful. Violent fiorm on the 29th of OGfober. Its effect upon the minds of the common people, Fleets detained by bad weather, and contrary winds. Suge geftion that an approaching peace may prevent the expedi- ie from preceeding to its deflination. Credulity of a hy poe chondriac lady, who afeed a celebrated empiric to tell her the name of ber malady. - - 62 - LEVIER (VIE. - ~~ Author and bis colleagues joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Doors Mafter, Cleghorn, and the author cotemporaries at Edin- burgh, and fellow-pupils of Guys and St, ‘Thomas's. Author and his comrades, joined by Mr. Nicholl, again vifit _ the Dock-yard, Haflar Hofpital, and Forton Prifon. Vi-> ciffitudes of war exemplified in the cafe of a French pri- _ fener. ie Nae Sire 74 ae |) am LETTER , IX. ) Author and bis comrades embark on board the Ulyffes at Spit- head. Report of the expedition being about ta fail. Con- fequent hurry and confufton. Scramble for provifions. Author and his comrades buy a giblet pie upon the frreet, bot from the oven. Embarkation fcene at Portfmouth. Author's account of having witnefid a fimilar foene at Geneva, but of a nature and extent far more afflicting. Condu& of an emigrant marquis upon that occafion. Re- ception of the author and his comrades on board the Ulyffes. Proceedings of the firft night on board. Page 78 LETTER © X. Leeward land divifion of the expedition puts to fea. Ap- pearance of the fleet on doubling the point of the Ifle of Wight. Its failing forms a grand and pleajing [pectacle. Fir- ing of cainon on board a foip. Author's fenfations convince him that he is no longer upon terra firma. Putrid wa- ter on board the Ulyffes. Kitchen inconveniences. Au- thor expects to proceed ta Ireland. ° 102 LETTER XI. A dreadful form overtakes the fleet. It returns to St. Helen's in a difabled condition. Author's fenfations during thé form. Thofe of other Paffengers unaccuftumed to the fea. Quaint jokes and remarks of the failors. Difmal effects of the gale. Author and bis comrades go on fhore at Port{mouths and at the Ifle of Wight. »Ave told that the Ulyffes is to, proceed to Cove with the jirft fair wind, without waiting for the convoy. hit, . 110 AV ‘LETTER ‘XI. Military incertitude not inferior to the glorious uncertainty ofthe law. Examples in proof of this. The Ulyffes deftined to make a running paffage, with troops, to Martinique. Punifoment of flogging a failor round the fleet. Page 120 ‘LETTER XUL _ Author and his comrades again on fbore. Portfmouth thronged, and many compelled to fleep in chairs, hammocks, és, Author obtains a bed by firatagem. St. Domingo Stoves removed from the Ulyffes 3 and the foctal quartette of the wardroom ordered to feparate into the George and Bridget, and the Lord Sheffieid tranfports. Further ac- count of the difaftrous effects of the form. Author and his comrades fuppofed to have been at fea with the convoy. | Felicitations of an old lady at Gofport, on feeing Dr. Cleg- horn fafely returned. - - 126 LETTER XIV, Perilous expedition of the author and others to the Mother- bank. They fave themfelves on board the Diana frigate. Hofpitality and humane attentions of the officers of that foip. Lieutenant Davy a valuable officer, and an accom- plifhed man. Author and the companions of his peril pafs the night on beard the Diana. Proceed to the Mother~ bank, and embark on board the Lord Sheffield. Firff im- pref ion from the appearance of that foip highly favorable. 135 é y XVI “oli LETTER XV. | Bxcwgfin 20 the Conmeree de Marfeilles at St. Helen’ s. Appearance of that foip as viewed from a fmall boat at her fide. Author vifits his comrades on board the George and Bridget : goes to the play at Portfmouth. Tumul- tuous proceedings at the Theatre. Author returns to the Lord Sheffield. Dr. Cleghorn joins the mefs on board that foip- Symptoms af falling. Linen taken wet from the qa/e-tub. o Page 145 LETTER XVI. Convey fails on the oth of December. Author promifes te make notes on the paffage for his friend, if the fea will let him. Splendid appearance of the convoy. It meets with tempeftuous weather. Defeription of a flormat fea, \ Ele- ments hoftile to the expedition. Gale repeated. Lord Sheffield left alone upon the ecean—Prevented from giving relief toa finking /uip. A melancholy and afflicting foene CnfUChn |. = ~ - i gk LETTER XVIE. The nesw year mild iid of good promife. - Ciiulus and Nep~ tune enraged again? the youthful deputy of time. Storms and gales vepeated. Delight of affociating with congenial friends. A good foip fearcely perifbuble at open fea. Accidents and difafters of the Lord Sheffield. Contraft between land/men and feamen during a form. Apathy of failors regarding tke wediher. Their eculiag degrees & s & In ek — xVil comparifon. Cool replies of an old fleward. Odd tumbles and poflures of the paffengers amufing to the failors. Dinner fcene during a gale. Superftition and prejudices of failovs. Whiftling on board fhip. Mother Cary’s | chicken. Blowing for a wind. Marks of the Lord Sheffield having paffid the Azores, - Page 164 LETTER XVIII. Lord Sheffield arrives at Barbadoes. Setting in of the trade wind. Striking change in the failing and working of the Joip. Lord Sheffield falls in with No. 4. tran/port, with a band of mufic on board—/fpeaks a Spanifb veffel—alfo the Britannia tranfport.. Advantages of being on board a Weft India foip. Author adopis a preparatory regimen, to guard bim againft the effects of climate. Exclamation of one of the author’s comrades, on being firft attacked with “ prickly heat.” Diftant land vifible to failors long before it is to others. Firft appearance of Barbadoes. Lord Sheffield, happily, prevented by the land breeze, from going into the harbour at night. Scenery on entering Carlifle bay, 18t LETTER XIX. Ceremony of cleaning and painting Weft India fhips. Feelings of failors refpetting the failing of their veffils. Tobacco an univerfal cordial among failors. Specimen of economy in a young tar. Negro economy. Baptifmal ceremony on croff- ing the tropic. Author and his comrades work at the cap« flan. An accident happens to Dr. Cleghorn. Harpoons and other inftruments prepared for flriking fifo. Peculiar habit of porpoifes. Sharks, dolphins, and flying fifb ufed as food. Stupidity of the Shark. Splendid appearance of a fheal of dolphins. Remarks upon the firucture, and motion of Vor. I. a. XVHL the wings of the flying jifo. Small fying fib an indication of approaching the land. Temperature of the water of the Atlantic. Lights produced by the fhip at night. Small vainbows upon the furface of the ocean. Appearance of the fun and moon at fea, within the tropics. Weft India Sky. Evening clouds, he - Page 199 LETIER “Xx: Muthor continues to addrefs bis friend, although he cannot fend away his letters. Lord Sheffield vifited by anxious crowds in queft of news. Perilous ftate of St. Vincent and Gre- nada. Guadaloupe reinforced. French gafconade. Ene= mys frigates and cruifers infeft the coafi of Barbadoes. Lofs of the Leda frigate. Brunfwick detached with troops to St. Vincent. The loft Stanley fafe in Carlifle Bay—alfa nine or ten other tranfports of the December convoy. Au thor and his comrades go on foore at Barbadoes. Remarks upon the novelty of the feene. Vifit toan American flave fiip : - ~~ toa Liverpool Guinea-man, = 220 LETTER XXtI. . | Author and bis comrades live on beard foip at Barbadoes. \ Accommodation of a Barbadoes tavern. Method of cooling : | liquors. Porter better than in England. Tavern wait- ‘ ers. Black and mulatto hofteffes. Privilege of female . attendants. Bar-maid at Mary Bella Green's. Law concerning the children of flaves. Women of colour not digs nified with the title of miftrefs. mech with two fe= male flavesy = 239 KIX “LETTER XX. Meat fold alive in the market at Barbadaes. Cujlom of blow- ing the meat. Creoles caution Dr. Cleghern and the author againff walking. Vifit to a fugar plantation. Specimen. of the indolent labour of flaves. A wafbing party. Indecency of women upon the frreets. Effect of the indecent habits of flaves upon the minds of white females. Negro cuftom of picking each other’s heads. Savage fight between a black woman, and a mulatto woman, Page 253 LETTER XXiil. Sunday a day of feftivity among the flaves. African dance, - and mufic. Remarks of a Scottifh woman on feeing the negroes dance. Eracas between a negro man and woman,” Negro funeral. Faith of flaves in tranfiigration aftey death. Singular expedient to deter them from fuicide, 263 LETTER XXIV. Author and his comrades receive kind attentions from Mr. B. Hinde. Make a vifit to Dr. Hinde. General face of the country above Bridge-Town. The party at Dr. FHiinde’s witnefs the procefs of making rum and fugar. Slaves employed as running footmen.’ Four women feen toiling in a cane-field with a man holding a whip at their backs. Dr. Cleghorn and the Author continue theiy walking exercife. Meet with trees of the poifonous man- - shineel—alfo of the fea-grape. A coco-nut grove. Hof= pitality of a planter. A happy negro-yard. Mode of wafbing linen at Barbadves, = 7 a7G a2 RX ‘LETTER xXVv. Author and his comrades make an excurfion to Col. Wil- liams’s. Cuftom of riding with a fugar cane. Soil of Barbadoes. Piéturefque fcenery of the diftrid called Scot- land. § Sweet fhades” of Turner’s-hall wood. Boiling or inflammable fpring. Burbadoes Tar. Lemons left to fall under the trees, like crabs. Mountain cabbage- tree. View from Mount Hilloughhy. A © runaway eftate.” A golden orchard. A * fecial’ rock.” Cray- jie foupy and Centurian Oranges. Evening ride to Bridge- Town. Running flaves the only alloy to a moft delightful excurfion. Belfaft tranfport captured by the enemy, Trees, plants, and fruits of Barbadoes. Remarks concerning ‘the cultivation and flavour of pines, . Rage. 292 LETTER. XXVE Convoys and packet flill delayed. Single veffels arvive. Tranf- ports taken by the enemy. Inhabitants anxious to have the troops employed. — Sailors defert from the Lord Shef- feed. Alarm concerning a boat’s crew. Oars employed as fails. Negroes in flave fbips taught to be ufeful. Captains of Gnineamen walk on foore with parties of the foip’s cargo. Book-binding not among the trades of _ Barbadoes. Preparations for an excurfion to Hackleton’s cliff. The church at Bridge Town. The fignal code, Rie r - | a = 320 , | | MEPTER” Sx: Marooning excurfion to the windward coaft of Barbados. - Harrifon's Cave. Sugar Hill. Foes River. Unhappy 3 KK1 Jate of the Rev. Mr. H. its late poffefar. Bay-heufe. Beer- joeba. Animal flower. Hackleton’s cliff. Mules of the Alps. Ginger plantation. Colleton eftate. Urbanity of Mr. Hollingsworth and family. Codrington college. Coach Hill. Negroes dine in the open field expyled to the fun. Mode of claying fugar. Eccentric manager of Kendall eftate. Drax-hall, Barbadoes one of the ‘* Friendly Ifles.” Spendlove eftate. Hofpitality and benevolence of Mr. Fohn Waith. Fat people not uncommon in Barbadoes. Grati- tude of flaves. Negro privileges. Pitlurefque fcenery of a Negro yard. Darket held on Sunday. Supplied by Ne- . groes. Sprats, lobfiers, and milk punch ferved after din- ner. Mr. Waith, fen. invites the Party to a Barbadoes’ farmer's dinner. Difappointment refpecling Mr. Ellcock’s botanical collection. Compenfation by recommending it to the attention of Dr. Wright. General remarks concerning the excurfion, gt - aoe Page 330 LETTER XXVIIL Still no tidings of the Comimander in Chief or the Convoy. A trading fbip arrives from Glafgow. Anxiety difplayed auhen any veffel enters Carlifle bay. Privateers captured. A detachment of troops fent to Grenada. Uncertainty of all expeditions by fea. Black corps formed at Barbadoes. Negroes of the French colonies betray all the levity and vivacity of the French character. Dry feafon at Barba- does. Heat of the climate. Suggeftien that it might be politic to fend out the hofpitals, barracks, and other build- ings, previous tothe failing of the Troops. Ho/pitals ereéted at St Anne’s bill. Troops in the tranfports unhealthy, _ Moon light view of a coco-nut grove, near Bridge- Town, ; = "378 XXL LETTER XXIX, Author claims the freedom of “ noting” upon all fubjed?s, Polite and learned prattitioners in medicine at Barbadves. The contrary. Anecdote of a Barbadoes medicafter. Re- marks upan the fatal confequences of allowing every pretender to vange at large in the medical profeffion. Empirics and patents. New Tavern at Bridge-Lown. Mode of fepara- ting the feeds from cotton, Barbadoes method of carrying children. Suggeftion whether it may not be preferable to the Englifo methad. A fpectmen of the bitter hardfbips of flavery, - - = Page 3 88 LETEER .KAX, Author fends his friend a lift of the foips of the convoy which had reached Barbadoes. Aveffel from Liverpool arrives in Carlifle bay. The body of the fleet full wandering up- en the ocean. Packet fill delayed. Cork divifion found te be at Cove long after it was reported at fea. Probability of . ihe author and his comrades being employed, in confequence of the increafing number of fick. Carlifle-bay difiurbed by Prefs-gangs. Confijfion created by the failors of one of the tranfports refifting them. The Lord Sheffield vifited by two gangs in one night, ~ = 4090 LETTER XXXI, Senate houfe, and general affembly of Barbadoes. Punch and Sangaree a pleajant part of the debate. Altercation in the- eourt of Chancery. Interefting party dine with the mefs XXIiL. of the Lord Sheffield. Hazardous efcape of two Englifh+ men from confinement. Honorable conduct of Vitor Hugues? fecretary. Remarks on bribery and corruption— on patriotifm. Self-love, and the love of fame fironger incentives to action than love of country, Page 408 LETTER XXXII. 4 packet arrives at Barbadoes, Carlifle bay, and Bridge~ Lown one great feene of confijion. High feaft of peruf- ing the news-papers. The fleet fo long expecled at Bare badoes fiillin England, Seafon growing late for military operations. Report that honers are to be conferred ou Ad- miral Chriftian jor bis great exertions in taking care of the convoy. Adiniral Cornwallis expefied in the Weft Indiese Hope of peace vanifbed. Aufirian armies checked and defeated. Scarcity of corn and foecie in England. Gree nada in danger of being talen by the Brigands.—St.Vine - cent. ».«. by the Charis. A French fpy detected at Barbadoes, = > i lheg : 4'9 Sir Ralph Abercromby arvives at Barbadoes on St. Patrick's day. Foyous fcene in Carlifle bay. Author's reflections upon fcenes which may follow. Succefs of the General in his third attempt to make the voyage. Many rumours expected to prevail. Infiuence of feafon with refpect to a campaign an the Weft Indies. The general Cuyler, and Clarendon ar. vive in Carlifle bay. State of the Clarendon. Perils of the general Cuyler. A Dutch mode of punifbment, Progrefs of a leaky foip. Concerning the foips of the De- cember convey which made good their paffagey = 439 XXIV LETTER: OCU Carlifle bay the Thames of the W eft Indies. Aevival from - various quarters. A flave-/hip engages a French priva- teer. The Madras Eaft Indiaman, and a packet arrive in Carlifle bay. Admiral Chriftian receives the honors of Knighthood. Vifit to the Venus flave-bip.. Author and Dr. Cleghorn continue to ufe walking exercife. Eftate of Mr. Daniel. Tamarind tree, and fruit, Page 443 LETTER: T, x Concerning the correfpondence of diffant friends. Difap- pointment the author's friend will be likely to experience in the correfpondence folicited. “fourney to Southampton. Mail coach affociates. The author joins the army—reports bimfelf at’ head- quarters. His fenfations upon - placing himfelf under military command. Military hofpital. Aus thor’s purfuits upon the day of his arrival at Southampton. | Southampton, Oct. 3, 1795. ‘Tur bios we enjoy by preferving an intercourfe with our friends when feparated from them, beyond the reach of perfonal Anterview, ranks: ra a the higheft bleffings of civilized life. ‘The focial principle which attaches, man to his fpecies, influences him wherefocver he may be placed,.or whatfo- ever his condition—it prevails equally in fa- vage life and in polithed fociety :—but it is tO navigation. and the art of writing, thofe ' ,powerful engines which -have eftablithed 4 freedom of intercourfe throughout the wide VOL. 1. ane 2 extent of the globe, that we are indebted for the fuperior enjoyment of communicating with far diftant friends, and thereby ren- dering our feparation lefs intolerable, Yet, will you, my friend, I fear, but too foon difcover how much you have facrificed your judgment to your friendfhip, in fo ftrenuoufly requiring frequent communica- tions, from me, during my abfence from Eng- | land.—In the correfpondence your kindnefs has exacted you will have to encounter a tafk, while all the advantages of amufe- ment and inftruction will be mine: but you have brought it upon yourfelf, and muft, therefore, be content to fee me your debtor, affured of my regret that the benefit, to be derived, cannot be reciprocal. Did I even poffefs all the glowing and happy talents ne- ceflary to defcriptive narration, the bufy employment of my time, and the unfettled ftate of my mind, amidft the perpetual hurry and uncertainty of military movements, muft prevent me from obferving, and {till more | from relating what may pafs before me, with the accuracy you might exped, or I could 3 defire. Indeed, were genius mine, and all the acute and penetrating powers fitted for the tafk, ftill, from being unable to mature my remarks by the recurrent eye of a con- tinued refidence, all I could offer you, would, neceflarily, be fuperficial and undigefted. ' You will perceive, therefore, that, under all circumftances, yours cannot fail to bea | trial of patience, for, you can only expect the perufal of hafty notes, haftily collected, © _ by an obferver whofe time muft be devoted to the duties of his appointment—and whofe moventents and paufes muft be regulated by thofe exigencies of the army which more immediately, and imperioufly demand his at- tention. | But it were needlefs to enter into a de- tail of the allowances you will have to make. You already know them: hence, as apologies are irkfome to you, I forego all further com- ment, and, meeting you as you defire, pro- ceed to my fubjet. You command me, and, as the foft dictates of friendthip ufually pulfate upon my heart with an influence , | | 4. too pentchal to be difregarded —my pen obeys. The adventures of a ftage-coach are fome- times amufing, but it happened that my jour- ney, hither, was peculiarly devoid of incident, being, merely, a dark noturnal ride, which paffed on without any thing to divert, or to intereft. : | According’ to my ufual habit I felt no difpofition to fleep, but, wrapt in penfive ftillnefs, fat undifturbed, and let my cogitative faculties have their way. My fat companions, whom you faw in the mail, proved to be three of the fiurdy fons of old Ocean. ‘They had formed rather an intimate acquaintance with a certain perfonal pronoun; and, in ab- ruptnefs of manner, feemed to be as nearly related to that great perfonage Mr. John Bull, as to his kind patron, father Neptune. If I miftake them not, they were the com- - manders of fome trading fhips, or tranfports, eoing out with the convoy. The one fitting upon the fame feat with myfelf, fo fpread his huge fea-worn limbs as: to occupy nearly the 5 whole width of the coach, thrufting my, com- paratively, diminutive perfon up into the cor- ner like a very bodkin. Each of them, plant- ing himfelf, with aloud grunt, quite at his eafe, they all lowered down their travelling caps, and, turning into their births in the fe- veral corners, funk as profoundly into the arms of Morpheus as though they had been quietly {winging in their hammocks upon the {mooth furface of a weiiern ocean. Occa- fionally they were rather loud in ftarts of fonorous repofe, otherwife they caufed no interruption of my meditations ; and as dark- nefs deprived me of all the variety of paffing objedts, the want of fleep was, in fome mea- fure, compenfated by my fenfes falling into the flumber of weakened impreffion. Amidft the ftillnefs of night we rolled {wiftly on, without impediment or delay, always finding horfes in readinefs at the place of change. Even the great bufinefs of eat ing and drinking was more than commonly difregarded. No focial hour ef fupper was obferved: nor were our conductors troubled with thofe frequent calls of thirft, which are, B3 6. commonly, fo vexatious and annoying to the paffengers. ‘To arrive at the end of the jour- ney feemed alike the objec of all, Within the coach it was my lot, alone, to be fenfible of time, or diftance. Our fleeping captains might have fancied themfelves to have been transferred by fome fudden or fylph-like aid ; for, the curtains of their eyes but dropped with the clofing day of London, to be again uplifted with the rifing fun of Southampton. "We arrived at an early hour, and after taking the refrefhment of a cold ablution, and a plentiful breakfaft, I proceeded, with- out delay, to head-quarters, to announce my arrival, and to pay my refpecis to the com- mander in chief. It happened that the in- fpetor-general of hofpitals was with Sir Ralph Abercromby, at the time I called, I, therefore, reported my appointment to both— and put myfelf under command. The effe&t of this moment, upon my mind, I had not fully anticipated. It wasa moment big with fenfation, but I cannot fay —with delight! A fudden impulfe flufhed 7 within me, which feemed to create unex- pected feelings, as it were, of regret, on the furrender of my liberty. Recalling the days of my youth, when, at fchool, I was fubje& to the will of a mafter, my mind, in vivid remembrance, rapidly retraced all the images of a reftraint which had fo long been irkfome to it, and in high impatience of the impref- fion, bufy appeal feemed to call aloud, ‘* Doft thou not recollect that it was then, the anx- ious theme of all thy hopes to efcape from fetters, and gain the exercife of thine own will? Didft thou not anticipate, as the con- fummation of thy beft wifhes, the proud and happy period when thou fhould’ft arrive at the power of felf-command? and, this at- tained, would’ft thou, now, furrender the free- - dom of ation fo long, and fo anxioufly con- templated as thy greateft good—would’ft thou abandon the happy acquifition for which — thou hadft languifhed—for which thou hadft toiled through fo many tedious years ?” Such were the repugnant, and difcourag- ing appeals of momentary impulfe; but fober reafon quickly refumed her throne, and, pure B 4 8 fuing a more tempered train of ideas, ba~ hifhed the hoftile impreflion; when the re- newal of former contemplations {con reflored ‘me to myfelf. , From the quarters of the commander in chief, I accompanied the infpeétor-general to vifit the fick, and, in profeffional purfuit, forgot the wayward feelings of a difcordant moment. sesh op This walk afforded me the opportunity of taking an early view of the military hofpital, and I have great pleafure in remarking to you that it does much credit to the doétor’s * judgment and-induftry. Placed in the di- reGtion of the medical department, his exer- tiens have demonftrated how effential it is to commit that important appointment to an officer whofe experience qualifies him for all the various duties it demands. From a well devifed arrangement, forwarded by a zealous: and laudable induftry, he has caufed a large old building, late a fugar-houfe, to be con- * Sir J. M‘Namara Hayes. ia. oie ee Se ves 9 verted into a commodious, and well-aired hofpital; where the unfortunate fick are comfortably placed, duly attended, and con- veniently, as well as liberally accommodated | with all that their afflicted fituation de- mands. | After my vifit at the hofpital, I fpent the remainder of the morning in, perambulating the town and its environs, and in making va= rious calls upon my friends and acquaintances. At the hour of dinner I found myfelf en fa- mille with colonel M., whofe lady is among the unhappy inconfolables, whom this fad expedition is about to feparate from their Lords. In the afternoon I joined feveral of my profeffional comrades at the infpector- general’s; and, to complete the round of a bufy day, accompanied a party, in the even- . ing, to the public rooms: the night I crown to you, for, as my pen traces the hour, the clock ftrikes«——twelve. 10 LEE DER ” ET. Scenery, promenades, amufements, Sc. of Southampton. Its many accommodations for the fick and the well. Reflections upon vifiting the encampment near Southampton. Remarks upon the difcouraging fentiments conveyed tu the troops. The author obtains leave of abfence to return to London. Probable. miftake refpetting the author, and fome of his comrades. The utility of perfons engaged in the fervice accommodating themfelves to circumftances. Facility of yielding to events a leading feature in the character of the French. Reflections upon this principle as forming a con- traft between the French and Englifo. Further obferva- tions upon the French character, Southampton, O&. 5. aoe you a ftranger to Southampton, I might offer you many full pages upon its de- lightful fituation, and the many charms of its environs; for it cannot be difputed that this town and neighbourhood afford more of pleafing fcenery, convenience, and accom- modation, than moft other {pots in England. Within the town, the fick and the feeble have the benefit of fea-bathing, the well and the diffipated the amufements of a playhoufe, public rooms, card-playing, and aflemblies :— II without it, all may find recreation—the va- rious promenadés, either for walking, riding, rowing, or failing, being fuch as to invite and to gratify even the moft faftidious. Pleafant walks, delightful water excurfions, and the fineft foreft rides, abound on every quarter, offering all the variety of open country, in- clofed fields, fea and river views, and wood- land fcenery. Nor are the common and more generally ftriking lions of the neighbourhood lefs abundant: there being, within reach, a multitude of towns, places, and objeéts which ufually attract the attention of f{trangers, fuch as Portfmouth and its dock-yard, Gofport and its hofpital, the Ifle of Wight, the fleet at Spithead, Winchefter, Lymington, Lynd- hurft, Netley Abbey, &c. &c. &c. In fhort, Southampton would feem to be one of the few places equally calculated for the invalid, the idle, and the gay; for each may find the purfuit fitted for his habits and -tnclinations.. Without the too common ex- cefs of diffipation, this place offers every re- creation and amufement that a rational mind can defire ; and, in the happy combination IZ of its rural fcenery, it prefents all the firft requifites of a fummer retirement. Nor will the mere Epicurean vifitor be difappointed of his gratification,—for the market is plente- oufly fupplied with the good things of life. The fith, poultry, butcher’s-meat, and. ve- getables are not only abundant, but, alfo, the beft of their kind. The town is, commonly, well filled with company, during the fummer ; but, this year, from the attraction of a camp, and the crowd of military aflembled to proceed with the expedition, it is overflowing, and, confe- quently, all is life and motion. Still thofe who feek retirement can readily find it, whether in the lefs public parts of the town, in the hedge-row path, the lonely fea-fide walk, or, in penfive ramble, amidft the deep fhades of the foreft:—or, they may efcape _ from the bufy crowd, and noify throng, by retiring to the fill furface, and the tranquil fcenes of the river. The town itfelf bears all the appearance of neatnefs and comfort, and the many hand- II 3 2 | . e I UJ fome villas near it not only improve the fur- rounding icenery, but, likewife, impofe a ge- neral air of wealth and opulence. As you know my habit of vifiting what are called te lions of a place, as foon as poffible | after my arrival, you will conclude that I have not neglected the encampment near Southampton 5; and, in this, you will judge correéily, for, verily, I have not been un-_ mindful of it. I have made ita vifit of very | attentive infpection, and much do I with it were pollible for words to convey, to you, all the hoft of feeliags that rufhed into my mind upon the occafion. A whole volume of mixed fenfations crowded my bofom, and I fearcely knew which was predominant. View- ‘ing the foldiers in full contemplation of the firict order, the manly deportment, and the elevated enthufiafm of the charafter, my mind traverfed, in hafty review, all the pe- rils and hardfhips,—the glory and honours, which attach to a military life. I felt a fenfe of pride and gratification on feeing fo fine a body of men ready to join in our expedi- 14. tion. My imagination faw all the inviting forms of fuccefs before them. I obferved them in battle, on the oppofite fide of the Atlantic; felt honoured in their bravery ; hailed them victorious, and, crowned with the laurels they had won, re-conducted them, in fafety, to | their home, and their friends. Yet the bright picture was not without its _ fhades: reftlefs fancy went on to bufy herfelf in gloomy comparifons, in painful contrafts, and afflidting reverfes! Viewing the bril- liancy, the order, and the comfort of a do- meftic camp, in the peaceful fields of England, fhe called up ideas of a confufed and tumul- tuous encampment upon the enemy’s foil, threatened by the approach of a daring foe, routed by blood-thirfty cohorts, or ftormed by a horde of mercilefs brigands! Next ap- peared the dire confufion of battle, the diftrefs of defeat, and the dread effets of panic, with © all the horrid fcene of bleeding wounds, dying groans, and mangled bodies, and, ftill worfe than thefe, were pictured the fatal ills of climate :—yellow-fever opened her all- r5 devouring jaws, and, in deadly difeafe, ex- pofed a contraft, yet more affliGtive, than all the perils of battle or defeat. Although, in my mind, the more happy - face of the picture maintained its impreflion, I am forry to believethat the general fenfation of the country is in fympathy with the oppofite. A degree of horror feems to have overfpread the nation from the late deftructive effedts of the yellow-fever, or, what the multitude de- nominates, the Weft India plague ; infomuch that a fenfe of terror attaches to the very. name of the Weft Indiesmany, even, con- fidering it fynonimous with the grave; and, perhaps, it were not too much to fay, that all, who have friends in the expedition, appre- hend more from difeafe than the fword. Such difcouraging fentiments I am forry ‘to find have not been concealed from the troops. The fearful farewel of defponding friends is every day, and hour, either heed- lefsly, or artfully founded in their ears. Peo- ple walking about the camp, attending at a Teview, or a parade, or merely upon fecing 16 parties of foldiers in the flreets, are heard to exclaim,—‘ Ah, poor fellows ! you are going to your laft home! What pity fuch brave men fhould go to that Weit India grave ! —to that hateful climate to be killed by the plague! Poor fellows, good bye, farewel! we {hall never fee you back again!” With iuch like accents are the ears of the foldiers inceflantly faluted; and the hopelefs prediCtiens are loudly echoed, for the worft of purpoles, by the defigning, whofe turbulent f{pirits would feaft in exciting difcontentment among the troops. | Se : But, ftrongly as I would condemn every attempt, and every incaution, which might create even the feebleft ray of terror in the _ breafts of the foldiers, yet I.cannot but be fen- fible, that it is a fervice of imminent danger: and, while | look at thefe men, in high ad- miration of their intrepid charaéter, the re- collection of the general fenfation, which prevails refpeQing them, fteals upon. me, and my bofom heaves a filent pang in the con{ciouinefs: that a great majority of them will never return. Still 1 would hope that ane 17 every foldier is governed by the fame in- - dividual feelings as myfelf, and that each is fully impreffed with the belief that it will be his lot to efcape. With the greateft truth I ‘may aver that, notwithftanding all the de- prefling rumours of the moment, and the - trembling alarm of friends and relatives, I do not feel the flighteft perfonal apprehenfion, either with refpeG to climate, or difeafe. What fhall prove to be my fate, amidft all the chances of fervice, it were idle to conjecture, ~ but I fhall embark with confident affurance of returning to my friends, and to Old England. _ It isthe duty of foldiers to ferve where- foever their country requires, and hence the attempts to infpire them with a dread of cli- mate are not lefs cruel, than mifchievous. Defigned to injure the country, they operate by diftreffing the feelings of the individual, whofe noble mind knows no fear of death from other caufe ; but, if he falls, falls with-_ out a murmur—glorying in having devoted himfelf to his country, and, calmly, refigning himfelf to the fate of war. | ; VOL, I. Be ne 18 It does not appear that the expedition is fo, immediately, upon the eve of failing as is generally imagined. The whole of the troops are not yet aflembled, nor are all the tranf- ports in readinefs. Finding this the cafe, I have obtained leave of abfence for a week, oe | have the profpect of feeing you again before my departure. Repeating my vifit at the Infpector Ge- neral’s, I have learned, with fome furprize, that my name is not upon the return of the hofpital ftaff of this armament, and I begin to fear that my being ordered to Southampton has been the offspring of error. ‘Two other ftaff-phyficians are in the fame predicament, - andit is, even, probable, that, like many of the more idle vifitors, we have only made a trip. — to fee the camp, and go back again. It is not unlikely that we may find our names upon the St. Domingo flaff, inftead of the ftaff of the Leeward Ilands; in which cafe we may expedt to make a journey to. Cork, to join the expedition about to fail from Ireland. ‘This weuld be a difappointment to SAPS hes 19 me, beyond the mere inconvenience of, again, moving my perfon and my baggage, for, in the Leeward Ifland divifion, I have acquaint- ances, whom I had hoped to find my com= _ rades on fervice : while, with the St. Domingo ftaff, there are very few perfons to whom I am known. But I am prepared for all the uncer-_ tainties and difappointments, I may have to en- counter : confidering the duties of my appoint- ment as the great objet of my attention, I fhall make it my ftudy to. remove whatever difficulties may occur, by fubduing them. Except in what regards individual con- nections, there is, perhaps, no queftion of choice between the two divifions of the arma- ment ; the fervice, fo far as it refpecis our department, being, effentially, the fame in one part of the Weft Indies as in another; and, if-I fhould be ordered to Cork to join the St. Domingo expedition, I hope I have philo- fophy enough to foothe the difappointment, by regarding the journey through Wales, and Ireland,—two countries which I have been 2 long defirous to vifit, in fome degree as a , compenfation. C2 20 In my prefent purfuit I feel the neceffity of eftablifhing it as a principle to view oc- currences in their beft light, and, inftead of repining that more cannot be obtained, to feek comfort from what falls in my path. Were we to adopt this as a leading maxim, in all fituations, it is more than poffible that we might, often, have happy hours, where we know only thofe of mifery ; for fuch a prin- _ ciple, applied with wifdom, would tend very much to blunt the fharp thorns of life. As _ ifthe evils of the world were not enough fe- vere, we, too commonly, attach ourfelves to the unhappy face of events, brood over fan- cied forrows, and, eagerly, multiply our dif- appointments, wholly overlooking the more favorable features from which peace, har- mony, and comfort might derive. “ Yet forse there are, of men I think the worft, Poor imps! unhappy if they can’t be curs’d, For ever brooding over mis’ry’s eggs” * a a i Se ee aie ee ee ee ee ee This gloomy tendency of our difpofition forms a remarkable characteriftic between the people of England and thofe of France: %’ 21 while an Enelifhman, in afilitive contempla- ‘tion, dwells on misfortune, even to fuicide—a Frenchman, let the affairs of the moment be “never fo adverfe, always finds wherewithal to attach his better hopes; and, furely, when any occurrence proves lefs happy than we had anticipated, it is wife policy rather to extract from it all the good we can, than to give up ourfelves wholly to the fadnefs of difappoint- ment, becaufe it fulfils not our every with. From this facility of yielding to events, it has been faid that the French people : know how to play the game of happinefs- better than the Englifh. It may be fo. But _ full it is poffible that the principle, to which T allude, may be carried to excefs. Where it is the effect of a patient and manly fortitude, and employed to fupport us againft injury, misfortune, and difappointment, it is both amiable and virtuous, and may be dignifhed with the title of philofophy. But it is fome- times the effect of frivolity, or depravity— is connected with vice and diffipation, and highly unworthy. When proceeding from this fource, it fuperfedes all the finer feelings / neo 22 and fentiments of the mind. It deftroys ae natural affeCtions, and, weakening the attach- ment, which ought to exift, between man and, man, tends to make mere egotifts of us all. It not only renders us infenfible to our own misfortunes, and the common ills of life, but makes us callous to the fufferings of others, and fhuts the heart againft thofe feelings of fympathy and compaffion, which, being founded in humanity, are among the acbighelt adornments of our nature. : Notwithftanding my determination to pafs over the ills of my prefent employment as lightly as pofible, I confefs myfelf to be one of thofe dull Britons who would hope never to fee the period when French levity fhall fuperfede John Bull’s fedate integrity. Ifa Frenchman diffipates the pafling moment with greater mirth and cheerfulnefs, {till there is a fomething in the more folid attachment, and the blunt honefty of an Englifhman, which is more important, and more interefts and engages our elteem. Asa ftranger, or traveller, I look not for 23 friendfhip, or for confidence, and have always hailed that urbanity and eafe of manner, which make the moment pleafant ; or have been in good humour with that f{mooth and extended politenefs which means no- ‘thing at all! But, when refiding among. Englifhmen,—my countrymen, whom I regard more as the relatives of one great family, I have always feemed to expect a . degree of ftability and fincerity, which it were idle to look for in the mere traveller’s ‘hour. | The plodding purfuits, and fober attach- ments of the Englith, poffefs not fufficient got for the appetite of a Frenchman, whofe life may be faid to conftitute one fyftem—one continued feries of intrigue. In all ‘his occupations he requires the high feafoning of variety. Whatever the fubftance of his purfuit, intrigue’ is always the condi- ment. (Without a {pice of intrigue the board were infipid, however fumptuous. A French- man:troubles not himfelf with the affeQiions ; but is a dupe to his paffions. His attach- ments wear away with the moment, and are C 4 2, not thought of beyond the period of being convenient to his purpofe. He is often dif appointed, but never difmayed. All regret, for the paft, he buries in fome new {cheme or adventure. If one projeét fails, he, inftantly, flies to another, exclaiming, ‘* Ah, Diable! cela ne me conviens pas. Il y faut un autre projet. Allons! tachons encore.”—If he — fucceeds not to-day, he has always a new plan for to-morrow. If difcomfited in the fcheme of the morning, he feels certain of fuccefs in the zouveau projet of the evening. Some- thing new, fomething not of plain or ready attainment—fomething’ poffefling a real or a fancied intricacy is always imagined, or attempted. No matter how vaft, or how fri- volous the obje¢’—whether a revolution of the ftate, or a game of loto. It diverts his attention, diffipates the moment, fhields him from the fadnefs of difappcintment, and fhuts the door againft ennui. From the condud, ufually, purfued it would feem to be.a lead= ing feature, in the charaéter of a Frenchman, not to attach himfelf ferioufly, or permanently, to any thing; but to avail himfelf of all paffing circumftances, yielding to each, or ; 25 caufing each to yield to his purpofe. In this way he travels the great journey _of life with lefs of care and forrow than the more fedate of other nations; fombre reflection offering no impediment to a path, which, at _ every ftep, bears his loved motto, — rs: Vine p>? | da issn I am aware that you will plead very broad exceptions to this, as a general cha- racter, and I moft readily admit them ; for, although the reverfe. is too common, I have feen Frenchmen, under misfortune, whofe patient fubmiffion, inftead of bearing the marks of levity and frivolity, has exhibited all the manly firmnefs of true ny and philofophy. ! But I am wandering from my fubje@— aieoeey, eer Good night! 26 ee LETTER UI. 7 The author returns to London with Dottor Mafter. T hey ) are oraered to jon the St. Domingo flaff, at Cork. Au- thor paffes a few days with his friends. Provides new | Supplies of baggage. Medical officers? uniform. | , London, O€. es H HAD hoped that you would have received my laft letter before you left town, and, in the flattering expeCtation of feeing you again, before my departure from England, I haftened : to your home, immediately, upon my arrival in London; when I was extremely difap- pointed to find that you were gone, and that I cannot have the gratification of, perfonally, telling you, that my journey to Southampton , proves to have been only a vifit to the camp. Finding that we were not appointed to the Leeward Ifland divifion, Doctor Mafter — and myfelf returned to Town, and, as we fuf- pected, found our names upon the lift of the St. Domingo ftaff. We are now directed to proceed in the Ulyffes, armed tranfport, to 7 Q ; / 27 -?@ork, to join: the expedition under major- _ general Whyte. But as this fhip is now in the Thames, and is to touch at Spithead on her way, it will give us afew days to pre- pare our baggage, and inftead of going round with her by fea, we can put our things on . board, and meet the veffel at Portfmouth. I thall thus gain a few pleafant hours, among my friends, which I had not anticipated ; and {hall have time to provide myfelf with fuch neceflaries as I may require, both for the voyage, and the climate. Moft of the few things which I had been able to hurry to- gether, during the fhort moment allowed, previous to my journey to Southampton, are already rendered ufelefs to me, in confequence of a fubfequent arrangement, requiring the officers of the hofpital ftaff to appear in a certain preferibed uniform. How will you {mile to fancy your friend, who hath fo long clothed himfelf in fable, like a very lobfter, changed, all at once, to a gay fcarlet, and fringed and embroidered with gold. Come and fee him, and be affured that, whether he be gay or fad, his coat bright or black, he is always, faithfully, So ee fo ete yours, 28 LETTER ry Author returns to Southampton. Deftination of the Ulyfes reported to be changed. Expedition frill delayed. Author vifits the theatre, and public rooms at allie Sine: The- atrical Corps. Southampton, Oc. 19. SouTHAMPTON again? Yes, be not iur- prifed! you perceive that I.am in a way to be, early, initiated into all the fudden and un- certain movements of a military life. We came to this place en route to Portd- mouth and Spithead, where we were to join the Ulyffes, on her way from the river Thames to Cove harbour; and we have now the fin- gular comfort of being told that the deftina- tion of this thip is changed, and that the is not to go round to Cork, but to proceed, : forthwith, to the Weft Indies, in company with the Leeward Ifland divifion. | Should this information prove to be cor= | reét, or fhould not the fhip very foon réach Spithead, Mafter and myfelf may be ordered et to Cork in fome other veflel, before fhe arrives, and, in this cafe, we fhall have the mortification of being compelled to proceed to St. Domingo without our baggage, which was put on board in the Thames: but our inftructions ftill direct us to the Ulyfies, and unlefs thefe fhould be, officially, counter- manded, we fhall wait the arrival of that fhip, confidering the information which has been conveyed to us, only as idle rumour. Every thing here is prefling forward with all poffible difpatch, but to get fuch an im- menfe expedition to fea, is a work of, infi- nitely, greater magnitude than thofe who do not think to the details of it can be aware of, Probably it may be, yet, fome weeks before the fleet can fail, notwithfanding all the ac- tivity and exertions ufed to haften it. . Should we be long detained, on fhore, I fhall be mortified that we could not remain at Southampton, which, in addition to the many advantages of its fituation, is now in high feafon, and as pleafant as Portfmouth is reputed to be difagreeable. 30 { You will admit that I avail myfelf of the prefent moment, and neglect not the pafling oceafion, when I tell you that, fince my re- turn hither on the 16:h inftant, I have made vifits to the environs of the town—rode. through the foreft, and to the camp—paffed two evenings at the theatre, and one at the public rooms. I am forry to remark, contrary to the good order of Southampton, that, each of the two nights, when I happened to vifit the theatre, the tranquillity of the audience was difturbed, the performance interrupted, and | the whole houfe brought into a {cene of riotous | confufion. The firft time, it arofe from fome idle etiquette, which I could not exaG@ly com- prehend, refpecting one of the actrefles com~ ing forward to announce her own benefit ; and did not fubfide until, with great reluc- tance, and after much delay, the, fubmiflively, made her appearance. ‘The fecond time, it — proceeded from a number of officers and ' other fpectators crowding upon the ftage fo as to interrupt the performers; and only ceafed, after much delay and confufion, by | 31 Pl ofitheen! being aGually -hifled and, pelted Off the ftage. As it happens at ‘moft country places, the theatrical corps confifts of a few tolerably good actors, and many very bad ones: but, upon the whole, the town feems fatisfied with their performance, and at this moment of full crowd, offers them great encouragement. To-morrow I leave Southampton, and, in a few days, fhall have the pleafure of addref- the Wapping of England. fing you from 32 LETTER V. Author and his.comrades detained in fufpenfe at Portfmouth. Objects commonly noticed by fivangers in and about that place. Port{mouth different in time of war and of peace. fHint that in peace it might be an economical retirement for prodigals. Anecdote fhewing its extravagance in time of war. Profligacy obferved upon the ftreets of Port/~ mouth. Defeription of thedrefs and perfon of a Portf- mouth Poll.” Progrefs of a long abfent tar, upon landing at Port/mouth. .Vifit to the dock-yard. Honourable ree treat of Admiral Cornwallis. The Haflar hofpital. In- tended military hofpitel at Gofport. Obliging attention of Dr. Lind. Author addreffed by a bounty-man at thé Haflar. The ramparts. Obfervations on the fad neceffity of man fortifying himfeif againft the ravages of bis own Speciese Port{mouth, OG. 23. No tidings of the Ulyffes! Four long days have pafled away, fince my arrival at this place, and I am fill, left im anxious un- certainty refpe€ting my baggage, and my paflage. | My colleagues, Dogtors Mafter and Hen- derfon, havé, again, joined me, and, like my- felf, have pafled four heavy days of fufpenfe, 33 with only the profpect of extending it to fourteen more. Being fadly tired of a Portf- mouth inn, and feeing no profpect of foon embarking, wé have taken private lodgings in the hope of paffing, more quietly, our te- -dious hours of waiting. Portfmouth verifies, to our experience, all that we had heard of its unpleafantnefs, and vulgar immorality: The great objects, which call forth the attention of flrarigers, are the dock-yard, the Haflar hofpital, and the fine walk upon the ramparts. All thefe we have vifited, likewife South-Down caftle, and the Forton and Porchefter prifons: nor have we neglected that new modern meflenger the telegraph, by which intelligence can be cone veyed, from this place to the Admiralty, at Gharing-crois, in the fhort period of ten mi- nutes. ‘Having thus exhautfted all the novelty of the town and its environs, it only remains to us to lapfe into the dull round of the place. It is faid that in days of peace, long grafs grows upon the fireets, In time of VOL. I. D _ / 34 war they are more trodden ; but, even then, the bufy activity of the place occurs only at intervals, as when a fleet comes in, or is about to fail: at which periods the town becomes all crowd and hurry, for a few days, and then fuddenly reverts to a languid intermiffien of dullnefs and inactivity. aS The rent of houfes and apartments—the price of provifions, &c. differ very much in times of peace and of war. Indeed, we are told that the houfes, and lodgings, have their war price, and their peace price, diftin@ly fixed. Viewing its prefent extravagance, if Port{mouth fhould be, proportionally, cheap in time of. peace, as it is dear in war, it might ferve as a place of retirement for our prodigals, and render unneceflary their tours of retrenchment to the mountains of Wales, or of Switzerland:—and, perhaps, there are few places that might fooner bring. them to fober refleGtion ; for it is lifelefs and infipid as the moft forlorn might defire, and would feem well calculated to temper the mind into the gloomy fedatenefs of peni- tence: |... bi ae i . The following anecdote, faid to be of réa éent occurrence, will exemplify, to you, wat may be termed the war-extravagance of Portf- mouth. A gentleman, who had been ill, called on his way to Southampton, to dine. at one of the inns, and having but a weak appetite, ordered only 4 veal-cutlet, with a pint of wine, for which he was charged _ eighteen fhillings. Conceiving, there muft be fome error, he defired to fpeak with the landlord, who, inftead of conducting himfelf with the civility of a perfon obliged by the | preference given to his houfe, doubled the offence by his infolence. Upon the gentle- man telling him that he apprehended fome miftake had occurred, refpedting the demand made for his dinner, he looked at the bill, and, “immediately, replied, “ Yes, Sir! there is a miftake, I perceive.” Accordingly he took the account back with him, into the bar, as the gentleman fuppofed, to make the neceflury deduGions—but, to his furprife, the waiter quickly returned with it, increafed from ezgh- teen to nineteen fhillings. | The gentleman feeling enraged at the va Dee -impofition irfelf, and, more efpecially, at the infolent manner of aggravating it, defired the Jandlord might again be called, when he in- formed him that if he, fill, infifted upon his: enormous charge, he would publith it in all the newipapers, and fet a mark upon his hhoufe, which fhould. make it notorious throughout London and the country: upon which the impertinent hoft, fill perfifting ° in his demand, drily replied, ‘* And when | you have made it fo well known, will you be — fo good, fir, as to add, N.B. Lhe houfe to dei'?’—There was no contending with fuch infolence. The man had made his fortune— and it was in vain to attempt to teach him ‘civility, good manners, or common honefty. The gentleman, therefore, paid the bill, and left the houfe, lamenting that his only, re=. medy was—to avoid it in future, | In refpecét to flreets, houfes, markets, and traffic, Portfmouth is not unlike other country towns, but Portfmouth-point, Portfea-com- — mon, and fome other parts of the town have: peculiarities which feem to fanétion the ce- _ debrity the place has acquired. In fome quar- e sy ‘ters, Portfmouth is not only filthy and crowded, but crowded with a clafs of low and abandoned beings, who feem to have de- clared open war again{t every habit of com- mon decency and decorum. You know the {trong defire I have to contemplate human: nature, under all her varied forms, but thofe ‘fhe, here, aflumes, I am forry to tell you, Abc. uncommonly, hideous and difgufting. . The riotous, drunken, and plat {cenes of this place, perhaps, exceed all others. Commonly —grofs obfcenity and intoxication preferve enough of diffidence to feek the concealment. of night, and, afluming a kind of decency, ftrive to hide themfelves from the public eye: but, here, hordes of profligate females are feen reeling in drunkennels, or plying upon the ftreets in open day, with a broad im- modetty which puts the great orb of noon to’ the Bluth. Thefe daughters of Cypria are not only of manners peculiar, but likewife of: fuch peculiar figure and apparel, that it were, perhaps, dificult, in any other part of Eng-_ Jand,. to find a correct refemblance ta ss ded Poll of Portfmouth. is D3 38 To form to yourfelf an idea of thefe ten=. der languifhing ny mphs—thefe lovely fighing ornaments of the fair-fex, imagine a fome- thing of more than Amazonian ftature, hav= ing a crimfon countenance, emblazoned with all the effrontery of Cyprian confidence, and broad Bacchanalian folly: give to her bold countenance the warlike features of two wounded cheeks, a tumid nofe, fcarred and battered brows, and a pair of blackened eyes, with balls of red; then add to her fides a pair of brawny arms, ft to encounter a Co- loffus, and fet her upon two ancles like the fixed fupporters of a gate. Afterwards, by _ way of apparel, put upon her a loofe flying cap, a man’s biack hat, a torn neckerchief, ftone rings on her fingers, and a dirty white, _or tawdry flowered gown, with fhort apron, and a pink petticoat ; and thus, will you have fomething very like the figure of a “ Portf: mouth Poll.” . Callous to every fenfe of fhame, thefe da- ring objects reel about the fireets, lie in wait - at the corners, or, like the devouring kite, hover over every landing-place, eager to aa. pounce upon their prey; and each unhappy. tar, who has the misfortune to fall under their talons, has no hope of efcape till plucked of every feather. The inftant he {ets foot on ‘dry land he is embraced by the neck, hugged round the waift, or hooked in the arm by one or more of thefe tender Dulcineas; and, thus, poor Jack with pockets full of prize- money, or rich with the wages of a long and dangerous cruize, is, inftantly, dragged . (though, it muft beconfeffed, not always againft his confent) to a bagnio, or fome filthy pot-houfe, where he is kept drinking, fmok- ing, finging, dancing, {wearing, and rioting, amid{t one continued fcene of debauchery, all - day and all night, and all night and all day, until his every farthing is gone. He is, then, left to fleep till he is fober, and awakes to return, pennylefs, to his fhip—with much caufe to think himfelf fortunate, if an empty - purfe be the worfe confequence of his, long wifhed for, ramble afhore. _ My vifit to the dock-yard was of a nature highly gratifying. I contemplated this vatt _ Gepot of ftores—this great workihop of our Oo a | | 40 navy, as the emblem of our nation’s glory. No part of it efcaped my eye. I regarded each fpot with all the enthufiaftic ‘veneration of a Briton, proud of his country’s greatnels, and of the fplendid and heroic atchievements of i its defenders. d The Tigre, thip of war, lately taken from the French, by Lord Bridport, being in dock, we had the opportunity of going on board, ‘to witnefs the i injuries fhe had fuftained from: the thunderbolts of Britain. Her fhattered . condition befpake, in ftrong expreffion, the terrible efie@ts of a clofe-fought ation at fea. | Yet were we told that all the had fuffered ‘Was trivial, compared to what is feen,in many vellels, after a battle. If fo, it is equally mat- ter of furprife that fuch veffels fhould be kept afloat, as that any fhould ever have been con- firucted capable of witiftanding the deftruc- tive batteries now brought againft them. WV rhile examining the many wounds of - the Tigre, my mind called up, in vivid affocia- tion, the late noble retreat made by our gallant admiral Cornwallis, which I have always a thought did him high and fingular credit, Conduéted as it was, it had all the merit of a great victory, and I well remember that, at the fir moment of perufing the difpatches concerning it, I was imprefled with a high fenfe of that officer’s jad ement, and his valour, and felt that I muft ever retain the higheft refpea for his profeflional talents., To have — defended an inferior fleet, againft fuch unequal _ force, and 'to have brought every fhip fafe into port, argues a degree of intrepid deli- beration, of addrefs, and of fteady valour, which can only be found in a great com= -mander. To have brought in the faft failing veilels of the fquadron had been meritorious; but to have dropped a{tern, with thefe, and caufed them to bear the blows, in protection of the flower veflels, whilft they made the beft of the wind, and, thus, to have faved the whole, wasdoubly honourable. It was great and bold, and worthy the brother of our brave and long efteemed Marquis, whofe high | and well-appreciated talents are fo univerfally -acknowledged, and fo increaled in fslendor, by the humanity and benevolence cf his na- ture. That two fuch diftinguifhed comman- j 42) ders, in the different branches of our fervice, fhould be found in the fame farnily, is no Jefs honourable to themfelves than gratifying to their country. Of fuch men England has juft caufe to be proud. Contemplating their characters, I feel as a Briton, and partaking of my country’s pride, could exclaim, Such are Albion’s heroes—fuch her own legitimate fons! My vifit to Haflar hofpital was in keeping _ with that to the dock-yard. Connected with our country’s greatnefs, it called up a fimilar train of ideas, and I felt it an honor to Eng- land that fo noble an inftitution fhould offer, to our brave tars, the comforts required in. ficknefs. Too much cannot be done for our navy, nor can the provifion for our fick and wounded defenders be too liberal; they merit all their country can beftow. It has long. been faid; and, affuredly, with great correct- nefs, that Britifh failors are not only a bold, but a peculiar race of beings: the fa& is firiking, and although it were extremely dif- ficult to defcribe their fingular charaéter, yet may it be given in one fhort fentence, for— 43 they are a race of heroes! Fach im his caw - 4 pacity, and as far as the power of an indi- ae vidual extends, is a decided hero. Of fear he only knows the name. Nothing fo delights him as to be led into clofe combat; and, ra- ther than be vanquifhed, he would fubmit to ; _ die at his gun. That fuch men fhould be liberally accommodated in their fufferings, mui be congenial to the warmeft withes of every Briton ; and to know that they are fo, is confolatory to the feelings of all who are fenfible of their value. It is due to their courage and bravery, and is demanded from their country’s gratitude. , The Haflar is, admirably, calculated, as an afylum, for this important purpofe. The eftablifhment is fplendid and liberal, and well worthy its object; and, in, fo amply, providing for her brave and fuffering defenders, Eng- jand confults her beft interefts, while fhe proves herfelf to be mindful of the high du- ties of humanity. Le Ee hofpital, like many others of this ifland, from the grandeur of the edifice, might x from convenience, or neceflity, with to avail themfelves of the benefit of the inftitution, — may find every aid and comfort their fitua=— ~ 44 be miftaken for a palace. It is built in an open, airy fituation near the fea, at a fhort. -diftance from Gofport. The fick are brought in boats; from the fhips at Spithead, and, con- veniently, received on fhore at a landing place at the hofpital. This great building, fitted for the accommodation of two thoufand patients, torether with houfes for officers and the medi- cal attendants, a chapel, a laboratory, a variety, of offices, and thirty-eight acres of good paf- ture land, belonging to the inftitution, is en- clofed within a high brick wall, with iron- gates, and a porters lodge at the entrance, - which no ftranger is ‘permitted to pafs, without the leave of one of the refident lieutenants; or the porter firft announcing his name to fome officer of the eftablith- ment, 7 “Much to the credit of the country this” noble afylum, likewife, offers apartments for fick and wounded officers, where thofe who tion demands, — : ooo e 4s Nothing neceflary to the eftablithment has been omitted. It isa diflinét building, fe- parated from all others, and, from poffeffing every effential within itfelf, is as complete as it is liberal, and does honor to the reign of George II. who has the merit of being its ' founder. The eftablifament confifts of a governor, ({ufually an old navy captain) three lieute- nants, three phyficians, three furgeons, two -vifiting apothecaries, a chaplain, an agent, a fteward, and a difpenfer, with afliftants and fervants in proportion to the number of. fick. The hofpital accomodates one thoufand eight hundred patients, conveniently, but it fometimes happens that it receives as many ‘as two thoufand. This important eftablifh- ment was founded in the year 1746, but was ten years before it was completed, the patients not being admitted until the year1756. The expenditure, as may be expefted, from the nature of the inftitution, differs very widely -in different years, varying from 10,oool. to upwards of 30,000l, per annum. ‘ 46 A plan has lately been formed for eftablifh- ing a military hofpital, likewife, in this neigh- - bourhood, for the accommodation of our fick and wounded foldiers. You will join me,I _ have no doubt, in withing that it may be at- tended with every poffible fuccefs, and that ‘it may prove equally ufeful to our army, as the Haflar to the navy. The building is al- ready commenced, at Gofport, and it is ex- pected to be in readinefs for the reception of - patients next year, or, at the lateft, the -year — following. - ay At the Haflar, a high degree of order and atrangement prevails, and all the regulations of the eftablithment are duly obferved. The hofpital is clean, well ventilated, and well conducted ; and the benefit, intended, is re- gularly and corredlly adminiftered, — | But great and liberal as is the relief held out, to the fick, by this {plendid infti- tution, we are not to contemplate it in the limited view of a mere afylum for thofe who are, inane fuffering. Its object i is 47 | far more extenfive. It may be faid to bethe depot—the great and general receptacle of maritime ficknefs, and the beft guardian of our navy; for it not only offers a home to the fick, but holds out the means of keeping difeafe and infe@ion from our fleets. Every fhip lying in harbour, or upon going out to fea, has ‘the privilege’ of fending any of the failors who may chance to be ill, to the Haf- lar; a regulation founded in wifdom, and fraught with great and manifold advantages ; for, not only are the fick more fpeedily reco- vered, but, by this excellent arrangement, every fhip is made free from difeafe, and con- tagion is prevented ; or, if it fhould already exift, is kept from fpreading through the veflel, or extending its direful effets to the | ficet. Hence, from_the extenfive accommo- dation of this admirable inftitution, and from the ftri& rules of cleanlinefs and ventilation, which are now obferved on board the fhips, all apprehenfion is removed of great and general ficknefs in our navy. Dr. Lind, the fenior phyfician at the Haf- Tar, politely offered his fervices, as guide and 43 conduor to us, in our round at the hofpital, \ and we were much gratified in this oppor “tunity of becoming known to him. But few men could be found fo well calculated for the fituation and appointment he holds. The dogtor is not only a man of profeffional ta+ lents, but of great accuracy and fyftematie arrangement. He, very obligingly, commu-, nicated to us much information refpecting the interior economy of hofpitals ; and, ftom his remarks, we collected many ufeful hints, — of which we hope to avail ourfelves on fer= | vice. -From a perfon of fuch extenfive ex: | perience, you may believe, that every word was treafured, and we fhall be happy in the © opportunity of applying his obfervations to: the benefit of the fick in our military hof- pitals. | Jn our walk through the Haflar, a man, apparently a convalefcent, came up to me;., in one of the fever wards, and, accofting me. ina firm tone of voice, without any preface, defired. me to “ take care of my pockets.” I heard him, without much furprife, fuppofing — : him to be a convalefcent in the delirram of a 49 | fever ; when he quickly rejoined, “ take care ble thief.” This confirmed me im the idea fuggefted by his firft addrefs: but I was foon undeceived ef your pockets—for I’m ad by the information that he was “ a bountye — man,’ {ent by one of the parifhes, as a part of the levy required to complete the manning of the navy ; the parith officers having, thus, availed themfelves of the opportunity of re= lieving the parith from an unfortunate object, who had long been a burthen to them, from being in a ftate of infanity. But too many, it is to be feared, have fought to fulfil the a@ by ferving their country with fuch-like contri- butions. I mentioned the ramparts as another ob- _ je@ of our attention. Thefe form an agree- able relief to the general heavinefs of the town, by affording a lively and extenfive _ view of the environs, including the fea, the Ifle of Wight, and the Southampton river, with the fleets at Spithead and St. Helen’s. | | The works of a fortified town, being © eonfiderably elevated, ufually form a pleafant VOL. I. E + : 50 promenade, and offer a commanding view of the country adjoining. Could the mind di-. veft itfelf of all idea of the unhappy caufe which renders fuch barriers neceflary, they might be regarded as the ornamental im- provement of the place: but, too commonly, gloomy refleGtions conne& with them, from the contemplation of the cruel ferocity of our nature, which requires that fuch defence fhould be oppofed to thofe of our own fpe- cies, and prevents mankind from aflociating in the peaceful harmony of one great family. That men fhould need to be thus protected againft each other, is a melancholy refleGion, and almoft amounts to a contradiction of all the boafted advantages of our reafoning fa- culty. The wild beafts of the foreft war, only, from the calls of appetite, and even under the powerful impulfe of hunger, dévour not thofe of their own {pecies— but man! favage .man! who boafts the exclufive faculty of reafon, employs his talents to the deftru@tion of his fellow. beings, and without even the plea of the beaft of prey—that nature im- pels him’ to it by the tae fhe baie given him. et The fortifications of Portfmouth have been, lately, extended to the part called Portfea, by which they have aflumed a more formidable afpe&t ; and although they are, even yet, more calculated to guard againft a furprife, than to — withftand the regular attack of a befieging army ; ftill, from its foffes, its baftions, and _ its angles, this place wears more the appear- ance of a, regularly, fortified town, than any other of our ifland. But, happily, for Eng- land, fhe has been fortified by a greater matter than Vauban, Colbert, or any other engineer of modern or ancient celebrity. The trident of old Neptune has dug a deep foffe around her, which Britons, of the prefent day, know how to guard, as their beft defence, againft all the fanguinary hordes of our fpecies. §2 LETTER Vi. Author receives inflructions to proceed to Cork in the Bridgem water tranfport. Is offered an exchange from the St, Domingo to the Leeward Ifland faff. LEmbarkation of troops. Tempefluous Scenery at Port/mouth. Author vifits the Circus. Adventure of a Briti/b tar at this theatre. Author lodges at the Widow Butler’s. Is led into religious cantroe verfy with his hofte/s. Obtains her blefjing, by ieee a fimple food for her children, Portfmouth, Odtober, 28. Sri at Portfmouth, and the Ulyffes not yet come round from the Thames ! Hender- fon and myfelf have received orders not to wait longer, but to ‘repair, immediately, on board the Bridgewater tran{port, and pro- ceed to Cork. . Of this veffel we do not hear the moft happy report. She is very old, and. we cannot fancy her fo fafe as the Ulyfles. We, likewife, hear that the is, already, much ~ crowded with paffengers, and that we have no profpect of obtaining, even, a tolerable birth on board. But as I before remarked to a 53 you, I am prepared for all I may have to en- - counter, and refolved to meet whatever hap- pens fans me plaindre. Mafter has not received inftru€tions to accompany us, and we lament the profpeét of being fo foon deprived of his fociety. But ~ we have fome hope, that he may, again, join us at Cork. Poffibly he may follow usin the Ulyffes, and have the fatisfaction of not being feparated from his baggage. — - You will learn with furprize that, what J, fome time ago, fought, in vain, is now offered to my acceptance. One of the phyficians of the Leeward Ifland ftaff, withing to go'to St. Domingo, it has been propofed to me to. make an exchange, giving him my appoint- ment, and taking his. But my arrangements are now fixed. Ihave a better knowledge of things connecting with the fervice on which we are deftined, and my baggage is, already, on board a veffel bound for St. Do- mingo :—if, therefore, my deftination be altered, I can only know it officially, for £3 54 circumftances no longer prompt me to a va~ Juntary exchange. Some troops were embarked yefterday, from this place. The weather was rough and unfavorable. Such indeed has it, conftantly, been, fince our arrival at Portfmouth,—always. ftormy, and, at times, tempeftuous, From this ftate of the weather we have had the opportunity of feeing this great maritime port to much advantage; a degree of gran- deur being added to the fcenery, which, ina more tranquil feafon, had not exifted. The general movement and activity have been, neceflarily, increafed. We have heard the deep roaring of the billows, and have liftened to the howling of the wind, and the beating of the ftorm among the fhipping; the troubled waves have dafhed, in heavy feas, upon the land, or broke, with violence, againft the rampart-walls ; boats and fhips have been fet adrift, others have been driven from their anchors and caft on fhore; and that degree of the terrific, neceflary to the fublime, has prevailed. But fublime and grand as it may 55 have appeared, you wiil believe that,-as we are fo foon to be placed at the mercy of the reftlefs and turbulent waters, the ideas ex- cited, by this fcenery, have not been of the moft happy nature. A fort of relief to the dull round of Portf- mouth has, lately, prefented itfelf,in a company of equeftrians, who have opened a circus, or theatre for horfemanthip, in the hope of amuf- ing the public, at-more of profit than the bare fupport of the riders and their horfes. But, in this expectation, it feems probable, they may be difappointed, efpecially, if their vifit fhould be at all protracted. To have difregarded this only amufement of the place had been a great negle&t: buta fingle vifit has exhaufted all our curiofity. Of the f{pectators, no fmall proportion confifted of failors, (drunk or fober,) and. the lovely Cyprians I have before defcribed to you. The low buffoonery of the clown, you may be- lieve, was fuited to his audience, and, cer- tainly, it was coarfe and vulgar as, even, Portfmouth might defire. E4 ” Perhaps I might fay that the beft part of the entertainment proceeded from a jolly tar, | in a fit of mirth, letting himfelf down from the gallery, to fnatch off the fool’s cap,—which he put upon his own head, and, ufurping the place and charaéter of the clown, defired him to “ budge,” for he was “ too great a fool to keep the deck,” This introduced a very ludi- crous {cene between Jack and the clown. The clown met the adventure as mere failor’s fun, bore it patiently, and, in his own way, en= deavoured to turn it to the amufement of the. audience: while Jack made many hits of humor and drollery, and feemed not, alto- gether, unworthy of the cap. For fome time they maintained a very ridiculous and {portive conteft, who fhould wear it, Jack repelling | the rough wit and farcafm of the clown with confiderable effe&. But, at length, the latter obferving that “two fools” were “ too much for fo genteel an audience,” abruptly feized the cap from the head of the merry tar, and poor Jack, thus deprived of necromantic influence, reeled off the ftage, a mere drunken failor, ftammering, by way of apology, “ D..d.. dammee, ladies and g...gentlemen, Pit Obra bue ’ / 57 Liged to sli, for tother’s " cei fool. 99 From the time of our leaving the Foun- tain inn I have lodged at the houfe of a wi- dow, who proves to be a very ftrid difciple of the zealous and bigotted Whitfield. This poor woman has feveral children, who are brought up in all the ferupulous tenets of their fect ; and, it being a part of the fyftem to feek pro- felytes, I am, fometimes, in my occafional’ conferences, betrayed into theologicai difcuf- fions with my puritanical hoftefs. Moft commonly they turn upon the hallowed doc- trine of predeftination ; when the fcriptures are turned, and twifted, and tortured, and conftrued, and mifconftrued, in a variety of ways, and in all the trite language, and ready quotation of the fet, to exemplify the certi- tude of this great and univerfal principle ; which, to minds lefs biaffed, would only feem to plead an excufe for all the bad paffions of man, while it impeached the juftice of a be- hevolent, all-wife, and all-merciful ruler. But, as I, always, hold religion facred, and 58 venerate true devotion, under all the various. forms aflumed by every clafs of its votaries, however mifled, with regard to particular tenets, I, fo far, fub{cribe to the merit of the widow’s arguments as to quit the topic in perfe&t harmony; although lefs imprefled with the great truths, fhe fo fervently urges, _ than her zeal for the good caufe would lead her to with. I feel, however, the fatisfaGtion of having obtained this poor woman’s efteem and grati- tude: although, by a circumftance lefs {piritual than religious obfervance ;—a concern, indeed, wholly temporal, for it regards, fimply, the body’s fupport! Finding, that fhe was often at a lofs to contrive a convenient and cco- nomical. dinner for her little brood, I hinted to her the great utility of rice. In reply to which fhe remarked, that the did often make them rice-puddings, but that they were very expenfive, and required much time and trouble in preparing. She did not feem to have any idea that rice, /imply boiled, could be eaten, or that it could be regarded as food, without the admixture of eggs, fugar, milk, 59 and fpices ; and, when I aflured her that plain vice merely put into a bag and boiled, made a very wholefome and nourifhing diet, the {miled, and exprefled ftrong doubts of the fa&: therefore, in order to convince her, I defired that fhe would procure fome rice that day for the children’s dinner, and let me in- firuct her how to prepare it. She did fo, with a fort of reluctance, believing that it could not be good,—not eatable! I repeated my affurances that fhe would find it an im- portant article of diet, adding, that it was predefined for her children to ufe it as a ~ principal part of their food.—This was a clofe {pecimen of her own logic; and a little flageered her: but the could not “ tell by anticipation what was predeftined. Whatever was would come to pafs.” This, the believed, never could. She knew not what was to be; but, like the moft zealous of the fed, referved herfelf to judge the cafe of pre-ordination by the event, At dinner-time the rice appeared, and, fortunately, it was well boiled. I defired them to mix with it fome moift fugar and a {mall piece of butter, and, giving fome of it to the children, begged of the mother to leave it to them todecide whether the predeftination Lhad — . foretold was not about to be fulfilled. They ate up, eagetly, what was given them, and afked for more. The poor woman, likewife, partook of it herfelf, and, to her great fur- prife, found it to be, not only a good and wholefome food, but very palatable, A fcene of joy and happinefs fucceeded, which I wit- neffed with the moft heartfelt fatisfaGtion ; and I could not but take to myfelf the merit of having done a good action :although it was but the humble one of prefcribing a pudding to a poor widow, and her tender babes ! The dear little ones clapped their hands, and, in lifping accents, told their joy ; while — the thankful parent relieved a heart, loaded with gratitude, by exprefling a multitude of acknowledgments, and praying Heaven, for ever, to blefs me. ‘* Now,” faid the, “ I can never be at a lofs for a pleafant, or a plentiful meal, for my poor children:” and, on my putting to her the queftion regarding my prediction, fhe replied, that fhe was not only 61 fully convinced of the truth of it, but that fhe further believed it had been predeftined by the Almighty, that I fhould be fent, to lodge in her houfe, to inftruct her how to provide, for her infants, a fit and palatable food, which, at all times, the might be able to procure.— She devoutly offered thanks to Heaven, on this happy event, which, fhe declared, - brought, to herfelf and children, a degree of | comfort, and of plenty, fhe had not dared to expec. If I at all know your heart, my friend, however trivial it fhall feem to fome, this will not be regarded, by you, as, merely, an idle anecdote. You will envy me the blefling of the widow Butler, and the fmiles of her innocent babes. a LEDER: Author goes to Spithead and St. Helen’s with Dr. Henderfotiy in fearch of the Bridgewater tranfport. They return to Port{mouth unfuccefsful. Violent florm on the 29th of Oéiober. Lis effec? upon the minds of the common people. Fleets detained by bad weather, and contrary winds. Sug geftion that an approaching peace may prevent the expedi- tion from proceeding to its defination. Credulity of a hypo~ chondriac lady, who afked a celebrated aE to tell her the name of her malady. Portfmouth, Odtober, at. You, ro doubt, expefted that my next letter would be addreffed to you from Cork, and will be furprized to find that I am ftill at Portfmouth :—but this is among the num-=— berlefs uncertainties of my prefent calling. Upon receiving our inflrutions to repair on board the Bridgewater, Dr. Henderfon and myfelf took a boat and went off to Spithead, in the intention of joining her, but, after fail- ing and rowing, amidft the fleets, there, and at St. Helen’s, throughout, nearly, the whole 9 Ne 63 7 of the day, we, at laft, returned without being able to find our Ship. We haileda great number of veflels with inquiries, but could not obtain any accurate tidings of the Bridgewater. One had no knowledge of her whatever ;—another knew her, but could not tell where fhe lay ;—a third had never heard her name. Some had feen her, but faid fhe had ‘fhifted her birth ; —fome thought fhe had dropped down to St. Helen’s ;—fome believed fhe lay. at the Motherbank,—and others underftood that fhe had failed. Amidit all thefe contradictory reports we could neither find the fhip, nor learn any certain intelligence refpecting her: hence, after a moft tirefome and fatiguing round, and confuming nearly a whole day in queft of the Bridgewater, it only remained tous to return to Port{mouth, and, again, wait for further orders. Previous to going into the boat we had been informed at the Tran{port-Office, that _ the veffel, we inquired for, had received in- * ftructions to fail without delay: it is there- Vv and one 6ab e fore probable, that the might be getting under weigh at the very moment we went off in fearch of her. The following morning we learned that fhe had, sili failed sis Cork. After the account I gave you, in my laft letter, regarding. this fhip, you will not ima- gine that our difappointment was very af- flidting ;—and I, candidly, confefs that my greateft uneafinefs, upon the occafion, pro- - ceeded from our fickening tour in the boat. The revived hope of feeing the Ulyfies, and the profpe&t of regaining the fociety of our friend Matter, held out to us more than a compenfation for our toil. In the latter ex- pectation we were fpeedily gratified ; but the fatisfaction of greeting the Ulyfles fill le mains in anticipation. The weather continues to be very unfet= tled.. It has been ftormy and tempeftuous beyond all that is ufual, even, it the rougheft « feafon of the year. On the 2gth inftant it blew a perfect hurricane,—like what we read of as, fometimes, happening in other countries, 65 but unlike all that we are accuftomed to wit- nefs in England. Had the fleet been at fea fomething very difaftrous would, probably, have befallen it; but as the weather has fo long been ftormy, we hope that the boifterous heavens will have exhaufted themfelves before the expedition fails. . Between. ten and eleven o’clock, on the morning of the 29th, a tremendous gale began. to blow. The fky blackened. The tumid clouds rolled in heavy mafies, darting forth uf quick lightning, followed by loud burfts of thunder. The tearing gufts of wind brought with them violent fhowers of hail, and de- luging torrents of rain. The whole elements © feemed to be moved in ore convulfive effort. The vivid lightning traced its path in broad. and fiery flafhes, and the terrific thunder inftantly followed, as if raging to over- take them. At one inftant it rolled in op- preffed and convulfive found, feeming to ftruggle againtt fome great impediment that confined it to the clouds, and, at the next, it burft forth, in full explofion, as though a match had, fuddenly, fired the whole ordnance VOL. I. Ff 66 of heaven. Hailftones, of uncommon magni- tude, beat down with a force and rapidity, as if contending which fhould firft reach the earth: and {carcely had they fallen, before the {weeping violence of the, wind forced them into heaps like deep-drifted fnow ; in which ftate they remained for hours after the ftorm ; nothwithftanding the’ heavy torrents of rain which followed them. The houfes were fhaken, to a dangerous. degree, by the exceflive force of the tempeft. The loud ocean rolled in tremendous feas, and broke, in ruptured mountains, on the fhore. . Many of the fhips were driven from their anchors; fome were difmafted; others caft away ; and boats, fet loofe by the ftorm, were {fwallowed up by the troubled waters, and afterwards vomited, by the expelling throes of the fea, upon dry land. © Thé hollow found of the wind, and the. heavy beatings of the hail and rain,. through the thick foreft of fhipping lying in the har- bour, together with the tremendous dafhings _ of the fea, and- the troubled motion of the _ * ee ~~ of Ags — 67 veffels, upon its reftlefs furface, all combined to render the {cene greatly awful ; but too high a degree of the terrific was intermixed with it, for the fpeCtator to regard its grandeur and fublimity in quiet contemplation. —To convey any juft idea of it would require the pen of a Milton, or a Shakefpeare. Great and general alarm prevailed, efpe- cially among the lower orders of people; in whofe minds a fearful affociation was excited, which carried them, infinitely, beyond the probable injuries to be expected. They ran, trembling, into the remoteft corners of their houfes, uttering loud bewailings, and fearing _ that fome dreadful vifitation of the Almighty Was upon them, and that He, in his wrath, was about to punifh their fins, by the de- ftruction of the town, and its wicked inha- bitants. Nothing was heard but the howl- ings of the tempeft. In all other refpecs a dread ftillnefs reigned. No living thing was feen upon the ftreets; and all around feemed hufhed in the filent paufe of con- fternation. F2 68 When the violence of the ftorm had a. little abated, and the rays of light began to - iflue through the broken clouds, the trembling - mulutude ventured forth, and, aflembling in groups at the door-ways, relieved their ap- ptehenfions by relating them to each other, in the reftored comfort of mutual intercourfe. At this moment I could not but remark the flriking effet of that great and leading feature of our nature,—the focial principle.- Had thefe people remained alone, hidden in the corners of their houfes, their fenfe ofalarm | had, probably, continued much longer; but they derived manifeft relief from communi- cating with each other; and the very a& ef relating their fears infenfibly difpelled a them. Having much curiofity to hear their remarks, and to obferve their expreflions of | terror, I mixed with thefe aflociated groups, and found that their apprehenfions had been great and various. Some had magnified the ftorm into an earthquake, fent to deftroy them. Others had believed it to be a hurricane, which | 69 would bury them in the ruins of the town. Many had imagined they were to be fwal- lowed up by the fea, which threatened the place in huge and loud-roaring billows. Some, widening their fears to the whole ex- tent of our ifland, confidered the awful {cene as an omen to the Parliament (which was to meet this day), to warn them againft perfift- ing in a “ cruel and bloody war;” others, looking to the immenfe fleets preparing for our expeditions, believed the whole about to be fwallowed up, becaufe their employment was wicked; and all feemed to regard the tempeft as a f{courge, intended to punifh the vices, and chaftife the follies of mankind. Whilft every one contemplated the event as of vaft and mighty import, bufy imagina- tion had tortured their individual fears into a ~ thoufand forms. One worthy dame had felt the earth fhake under her; another faw the whole ftreet move; the olfactories of a third had perceived fulphureous fumes iffuing from. below, and fome had even heard the church and other buildings falling into the opened P3 7° ; chafms, and crafhing amidft the fhattered _ bowels of the earth. Thefe fecret terrors, you will believe, fubfided with the ftorm; yet all, in fobereft reafon, vowed they had never known the like before. The injuries done were lefs than might have been expected. Some of the thips and boats neceflarily fuffered ; a few houfes were unroofed; and, amidft the devaftation, the windmill, at Gofport, was blown to the ground. It was, at firft, faid that many lives were loft,—but, happily, we do not find this | report confirmed. | The Weft-India fleet, the fleet for Gib- raltar, and the Channel fleet, are all detained by tempeftuous weather and contrary winds : and there are fome among us who, from the pacific tendency of the King’s fpeech, and other circumftances, which they imagine to be favorable, would perfuade themfelves that our great expedition will never fail; or, that, if it fhould get under weigh, negociations for peace will prevent it from reaching the Weft- 71 Indies, I dare not hazard an opinion upon this fubje&. What fay you Poaugians of London refpecting it? But I have fomething to tell you more amufing than ftorms, and fleets, and troubled feas. You will remember our occafional converfations refpecting the numberlefs perils and dangers that derive, to the public, from the licenfe afforded, in this country, to every idle and impudent boafter of empirical re- medies for the cure of difeafe ; and, without any violent furprize, you will place the fol- lowing fat among the hoft of abfurdities which daily meet your eye and your ear. A phyfician, whom [had the pleafure of converfing with yefterday evening, was, fome time ago, called to vifit a patient who was, wretchedly, afflicted with hypochondriafis. She had long been under the care of the foi- difant and celebrated Docfor-——and had {wallowed of his all-healing, all-reftoring, all- {trengthening, and never-failing cordial as much as had coft her ¢qwo-and-twenty guineas. Still fhe was more and more low, dy{peptic, F 4 72 and hypp’d; and her poor flatulent ftomach was, cruelly, annoyed with the repeated po- tions, of this zzfallible fpecific. At length, after enduring the door, and his remedy, through a moft tedious trial, and finding no relief, fhe grew impatient to know, decidedly, the nature of her malady, and, at one of her vifits to the dodfor, pointedly importuned him to tell her the veal and true name of her difeafe: when this gveat man, finding that his patient was urgent, and that he was un- able, any longer, to evade the queftion, af- _ fumed a dignified and important air, and, with great gravity, made known to her his great opinion that fhe had’ Si. ore eee “ a great fire in the bones!” ‘The poor burn- ing lady, in all fullnefs of faith, gave credit to the fiery tale, and, in the true fenfe of a hypochondriac believer, felt that not only her bones, but her whole frame was rapidly con- fuming. Unhappily for ¢éc doéor, the foon after difcovered that taking his never-failing balfam was only adding fuel to her fire; and, at laft, upon turning to the new {papers fhe found that, in the long lift of maladies to be cured by this omnipotent remedy, the door, 72 alas! had forgot to promife that it fhould extinguifh the “ fire in the bones;” upon which fhe abandoned. both cordial and door, and applied for relief to the phyfician, who _amufed us with the hiftory of the cafe. 74+ LETTER VII. | — Author and his colleagues joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Doétors — Mafter, Cleghorn, and the author cotemporaries at Edin- burgh, and fellow-pupils of Guys and St. Thomas's. Author and his comrades, joined by Mr. Nicholl, again vifit the Dock-yard, Haflar Hofpital, and Forton Prifon. Vi- ciffitudes of war exemplified in the cafe of a French pri- jouer. Portfmouth, Nov. 8. Our of evil, it-is faid, fometimes fpringeth good: and I feel affured that you will agree with me, in confidering the adage verified, when I tell you, that the repeated delays to which we have been fubjeéted have proved the means of completing our party, by con- verting our harmonious trio into a {till more- focial quartette :—a circumftance which has happened from our being joined by Dr. Cleghorn, who is now arrived, at this place, on his way to join the St. Domingo hofpital fiaff. He is a pleafant, well-informed man, and of good profeffional abilities ;—is brother to the profeflor of anatomy at the Univerfity 75 of Dublin, and nephew to the celebrated author on the difeafes of Minorca. His fo- ciety is a great acquifition to us, and we are much gratified in having fuch an agreeable addition to our party.. We now look, more anxioufly than ever, to the arrival of the Ulyfles, in the hope of being allowed to efta- blith a pleafant mefs for the voyage. On the day of Dr. Cleghorn’s arrival at Portfmouth, it happened that he met me - walking in the ftreet, when, without any in- troduction, he direCtly accofted me by name; and, on my feeming furprized, at being fo addrefled by a ftranger, he remarked that my face was very familiar to him, from having feen me often at the clafles in Edinburgh: upon a further eclairciflement, it proves that Mafter, Cleghorn, and myfelf were cotempo- raries, though not acquainted, at Edinburgh ; and that we were all pupils at Guy’s and St. Thomas’s in London. We are now met again, under circumftances calculated to create a durable intimacy, and we hope to remain af- fociated, until the calls of fervice fhall require our unwilling feparation. 76 I have alfo the pleafure of finding myfelf further relieved from the dulnefs of Portf mouth, by the fociety of my friend Mr. Ni- choll, who is juft arrived here, in order to proceed to the Weft Indies, with the expedi- tion, but, on a much pleafanter fervice than ourfelves, viz. that of taking poffeffion of fome eftates, lately left him as a legacy, in the ifland of St. Vincent ; and from which he has the profpedt of obtaining an income of feveral thoufands per annum, | With our newly-arrived friends we have repeated our vilits to the Dock-yard, the Haf- lar Hofpital, and the Farton Prifon. The wounded and fhattered Tigre again arrefted our attention. We alfo went on board. the Bellerophon, and an immenfe fhip now building, which is intended to carry i i of a hundred guns. At the prifon we met with a ftriking example of the numerous and fudden viciffi~ tudes to which perfons are liable, who are expofed to the hazardous chances of war, Obferving among the prifoners, an officer” 77 who had loft his right arm, we were led to afk fome queftions refpeCting him, when we learned that he was the very lieutenant who took poffeflion of our thip of war the Alex- ander, at the time fhe fell into the hands of the French ; and that he had, afterwards, been taken in one of the fhips captured by Lord Bridport’s fleet, and had loft his arm in the action. Thus the man, who, but a fhort time ago, rejoiced in victory, is now humbled by defeat, and has the fad mortification of being confined a prifoner, with the lofs of a moft important limb, and the melancholy profpe& of being a cripple throughout the remainder ef his life. | | LETTER” Ix. Author and his comrades embark on board the Ulyffes at Spit- head. Report of the expedition being about to fail. Con Jequent hurry and confufion. Scramble for provifons. Author and his comrades buy a giblet pie upon the ftreet, hot from the oven. Embarkation feene at Portfmouth. Author's account of having witneffed a fimilar fcene at ‘Geneva, but of a nature and extent far more afflitting. Condué? of an emigrant marquis upon that occafion. -Re- ception of the author and his comrades on beard the Ulyfes. Proceedings of the firft night on board. Spithead, Nov. 12. "is alee from the Ulyfles! Our fufpenfe is, at length, relieved. ‘The day after I laft wrote to you,, our long looked for Ulyfies arrived, with a fieet from the Downs, and yefterday, Henderfon, Mafter, Cleghorn, and myfelf, took our births on board, finding Mafter’s: and my baggage ftowed in ane fafety. We left Portfmouth in a grand fcene of hurry and confufion, in confequence of it being reported, on the arrival of the fleet a, from the Downs, that every fhip, belonging to the expedition, was to fail, without further delay; thofe of the Leward ifland divifion for Barbadoes, and thofe of the St. Domingo _divifion for Cork. The tranfports, with troops from Southampton, happening to drop down the river at the fame time, to rendez- vous at the Motherbank and Spithead, feemed to confirm the report ; and fuddenly, all was converted into extreme hurry and activity. Multitudes, both frem the newly arrived fhips, and thofe which had been long waiting, _ thronged on fhore to purchafe provifions and {tores, to complete their ftock for the voyage. Many, who had paffed their hours of ful- _penfe in the town, had alfo their marketings to make; and hence the demand becoming, fuddenly, greater than the fupply, it intro- duced all the confufion of a general fcramble. Each feized upon whatever provifions he could find, afking no queftions, but paying any money that was demanded. _ Not aware of the tumultuous preffure of fuch a moment, and confidering ours to be enly a fhort paffage, we had, purpofely, de- Kaa 80 layed purchafing our meat, bread, and other _ frefh provifions, until we fhould be certain that the fhip, in which we were to make the voyage, was arrived. But, fhould we proceed to fea, immediately, and the voyage be at all protracted, we fhall be reduced, by this ne- gle&, to falt food, and the fhip’s allowance; for, in the general fcramble, we were unable to obtain what we wifhed, and were com- pelled to repair on board with a very de- ficient fupply. | All the butchers’ and bake fhops were quickly emptied. Not a loaf, nora bit of meat, | not even acarrot, nor a cabbage remained, and many went empty away. Neither porters nor fervants were required, but every one, | who was iuccefsful enough to put his hand upon any provifions, gladly became the bearer of his own load. To fhew you the extremity to which we were reduced, I may tell you that our party ftopped a man, upon the ftreet, who was carrying home a large giblet pie, hot from the oven, which we tempted him to let us take on board, by of- fering, for the pie and the dith, more than Si '. doublethetr value—or indeed any money he might demand. + 'Toan unconcerned fpeétator it muft have been a moft ludicrous and diverting fcene, and fuch as might have afforded full fcope to _ the all-animating pencil of Hogarth. We were too. intimately affociated in what was pafling, to view it only with an eye of. amufement. Still I could not but remark the oddity of the affemblage, and the varied ex- preflion of countenance, as actuated by hope, © joy, difappointment, hurry, and anxiety. Military and naval officers, paflengers, fer- -vants, foldiers, failors, boys, women, and ne- groes, all crowded together upon the ftreets, _ formed: one heterogeneous mafs—one great and motley groupe, of which every part was in bufy motion—each perfon feeling the ap- prehenfion of being left behind. From the multitudes of anxious heavy- | Jaden individuals who were feen running with their burdens down to the hoats, and fcram- bling to embark, it might have-appeared to ‘a ftranger, that the inhabitants of Portfmeuth ‘VOL, I. G 82 were making one great effort to carry off all the provifions, ftores, and furniture of the town, previous to evacuating it to the poffef- fion of an enemy. One hurried off with — legs and fhoulders of mutton, another with half a fheep, a third with a huge piece of beef, and others with different joints of. veal or pork. Here wasaman running with a cheefe, there one with a fugar-loaf. Others were fcampering away loaded with rice, or papers of groceries. Some ran off with bags of bread, fome with bafkets of greens, po- tatoes, carrots, turnips, and the like. Many. were feen bending under heavy bundles of ' clothes, wet from the wafh; others loaded with camp-ftools, deal-boxes, fea-coffers, pewter utenfils, and various other kinds of ftores; and, amidft the throng, ourfelves with the {moking giblet pie, and fuch other pro- vifions as we had been able to procure. Every - one was upon the alert. Neceflity made all induftrious, and, without any idle or fcrupu- lous obje€tions, each was glad to minifter to his own wants. Intermixed with the bufinefs of this 83 anxious fcene, were many other circumftances which increafed the general crowd and con- fufion of the picture; fuch as multitudes prefling into, and overflowing the fhops— people running againft, or tumbling over each _ other upon the ftreets—loud difputes and quarrelling—the fadnefs of parting —greet- ings of friends, unexpectedly met, and as fuddenly about to feparate—failors quitting their trulls — drunkards reeling — boatmen - wrangling—boats overloaded or upfet—the tide beating in heavy {prays upon the fhore— | perfons running and hurrying in every di- rection, for fomething new, or fomething forgot—fome curfing the boatmen for not pufhing off with more fpeed, and others be- feeching and See them to ae a minute longer. Such was the ftate in which we left Port mouth, after a refidence of three weeks, du-— ring which time we had regarded it as a dull inanimate place ; but the change was fudden, and will be only tranfient: the hurry and tumult will vanifh with the failing of the fleet, and the town will relapfe into its tran- G2 84 quil famenefs, until the rasiipnide of a fimilar occafion, This troubled moment of fcramble and confufion called to my remembrance a fcene, ‘ not unlike it, but upon a far greater fcale, which J had witneffed at Geneva, at the time when the French general Montefquiou, after taking the town of Chamberry, marched his army againft that city. This was a period of uncommon intereft, and it has ftamped an indelible impreffion upon my mind. Having made a long tour through Holland, the Pays- bas, Germany, Switzerland, and Savoy, my brother and fifter, and myfelf had propofed making the vicinity of Geneva our refting- place, during the autumn months, and, with this view, we had taken up our refidence at. the village of Copet, near that city, in a cot- tage, built upon the very brink of its enchant- ing lake. , From our windows we, at once, com- manded, perhaps the grandeftlandfcape,and the - fublimett picture in nature. An expanfe of water thirty-fix miles in length, fix in breadth, _ 85 and as bright as cryftal, was immediately be- fore us. Near to us, at the upper extremity . of this fine fheet of water, appeared the city - of Geneva, encompaffing the end of the lake | in femilunar form. Upon its fides were feen - many villages, towns, and country villas, diftributed amidft verdant fields, or luxuriant | vineyards. At the diftance of a few miles, on the left fhore, was the celebrated town of | Laufanne, with the towering mountains of Jura, which divide Switzerland from France; and before us, on the oppofite coaft of the lake, rofe the gigantic Alps of Savoy, proudly elevating themfelves, in three vaft ranges, afpiring to the very fkies, and {carcely leav- ing a {pace between the earth and heaven,. The firft rife, gradually, behind the beautiful villas and vineyards bordering the lake, and are covered, to the top, with cattle and green herbage; thofe of the fecond range, tower _above thefe, and appear, at the diftance of from ten to twenty miles, in rugged pyramids of naked rock ; and the moft remote, which crown all the others, are feen above the glouds, at the diftance of forty or fifty G 3 86 miles, appearing in huge fummits of ice and fnow. | Here we had hoped to fojourn during the autumn, enjoying thefe fineft fcenes of nature, placed, as it were, beyond the broils of _a difordered world: but it was not permitted us, quietly to lull in nature’s lap, or, thus, to reft embofomed in her fofteft couch. Too foon wide-{preading violation reached this peaceful retreat, and the maniacal fever of change, which fhook the globe, fuffered not this heavenly {pot to efcape. Under the protection of a neutral republic, and believing themfelves fecure in this foul- enchanting retirement, many of the unhappy — and perfecuted emigrants, from France, had taken refuge in this moft delightful neigh- bourhood, hoping to reft in quietnefs, and, peacefully, deplore their country’s woes ; but the infe€tious revolution, which now {preads its poifon abroad, refpedts neither perfons nor places. No eftablifhment, however. ancient or facred, is fecure againft its peftiferous in- 87 fluence. It rages wide and wild, and, like a ferocious beaft of prey, feems only eager to - devour and deftroy. At an early hour of the morning, long previous to the ufual moment of perfons being allowed to enter the city, crowds of diftrefled and terror-ftruck emigrants, flying from the - adjacent country, thronged to the Chamberry gate, to feek protection within the walls, re- porting that the French army had feized the town of Chamberry, and was proceeding againft Geneva, The news was unexpected as alarming, and the fudden apprifal introduced a {cene of terror and confufion not to be defcribed. An univerfal confternation prevailed. ‘The emi- grants expected to be maflacred if they fell into the hands of their implacable foes; and the ariftocratic party of the inhabitants looked to nothing but plunder, indignity, and in- fult. A general council was called, and it was ietolved to demand the Swifs fubfidy of C4 og) - ie) troops to defend the city. In the mean time feveral of the fenators deemed it prudent to embark fuch of their property as could be conveniently moved; and the whole body of emigrants haftened, without delay, to feck their fafety in the more independent territory of Switzerland. Of the inhabitants alfo, great numbers faw no fecurity but in quitting the town ; and many, who remained, held it prudent to fend away their wives and families. The fcene which followed was not unlike what we have, lately, witneffed at Portfmouth, _ but more general, and of a nature infinitely more afflicting. Indeed the fudden panic that overfpread the place, together with the alarm and confufion of the emigrants, begat — a day of horror and diftrefs, which might have drawn compaffion even from the tigre= _ hearts of thofe who caufed it. : | - Penetrated with every fearful apprehen- fion, multitudes abandoned their property, and ran from the city to efcape, only, with their lives; regardlefs whither they wandered, or 89 what path they took, fo it but led to a place of fafety. Others taking what property they could with them, crowded into boats upon the lake, in order to proceed, by water, to the Cantons of Switzerland. Many hurried -away on horfeback, others in coaches, carts, waggons, or any fort of conveyance they could find. Every fpecies of carriage, of. whatever fhape or ftructure, was feized and driven away with more than a double load. - . Unhappily a new fource of diftrefs arofe, from an obftacle which the terrified multitude had not anticipated. The little town of Ver- foy, fituated upon the weftern border of the lake, is within the territory of France, and the frightened multitude, in purfuing the public route to Switzerland, which leads through this place, met with guards of military “ le- _vellers” ftationed upon the ftreets, and upon different parts of the road, who ftopped every perfon, and every carriage, under pretence of fearching for emigrant, or contraband pro- perty. But thefe new comptrollers of the road —this new fpecies of highway robbers, fanc- tioned by that odious badge of “derty, the go national uniform, having, in compliance with the fyftem and principle of the revolution, fubdued all the antiquated prejudices of con- fcience, ftole and plundered without referve. The law of force being their only rule of juftice, they found no difficulty im attaching the term “ émigré” to whatever they defired to poffefs. If emigrant property was found, it was toffed out upon the open road; the packages emptied, and whatever was valuable taken away: and thofe perfons who were difcovered to be emigrants, were, further, robbed of their thoe-buckles, knee-buckles, ear-rings, and the like, and fubjected to every low and degrading infult that could aggravate their misfortune, or augment the diftrefs of their retreat. For more than a mile, between Verfoy and Geneva, the road was ftrewed _ with interrupted carriages—with trunks,boxes, imperials, and other packages, expofed to the rough examination, and the plunder of thefe, Jri-difans, fons of freedom, Whole trains of carriages were thus detained for many hours, ~ and others were not fuitered to proceed. ' -Maultitudes of perfons — of the rade om infpection to which thofe in advance were fubjected, returned, before they reached the firft {tation of French troops, hoping to make . their efcape, with lefs difficulty, by water. - But in this they were not lefs unhappy, for the freedom of the lake was alfo violated. The tri-coloured marauders of Verfoy, ob- ferving a crowd moving upon the water, fent out four boats, and ftationed them acrofs the _lake, with inftruGiions to intercept every vef- fel that fhould attempt to pafs; and inter- ruption and plunder prevailed, equally, upon the land and the water. The whole town was now at the highett point of diftrefs ; boats, carriages, and vehi- cles of every defcription were crowding back, both from the road, and the lake; the French army was faid to be actually on its march from Chamberry ; and, ftill worfe, from the demo- cratic part of the citizens being diffatished with the decifion of the council, refpeCting the Swifs troops and the defence of the city, : the place was threatened with inteftine com- — motion. No one felt fafe in the town, yet. none could efcape from it, without injury or 92 infult—The moment was awful as perilous. Confternation was feated upon: every brow. The ftreets were crowded with parties, each fufpeéting the other’s defigns; and from the more violent and diforderly calling aloud, “ Point de Suiffes—Point de Suiffes,” it was to be apprehended that fome dreadful can- vulfion might enfue, In this alarming ftate of the city the council was again aflembled, and, in order to appeafe the difcontented, it was refolved that fome ftep fhould be taken to evince the amicable difpofition of the government of Geneva, towards the republic of France. A decree was accordingly pafled, that the French refident at Geneva, who had not been ac- knowledged fince the memorable t1oth of Auguft, fhould be recognifed, as envoy of the French republic, and that he fhould be. re- quefted to proceed to general Montefquiou, _ commanding the French army, with aflur- ances of friendfhip from the council and peo- ple of Geneva. This, in fome degree, quieted the diffatif- > - fied citizens: but ‘ Point de Suiffes—Point de Suiffes,” continued to be occafionally heard. The council, however, did not abandon the decree of calling in the Swifs levy, but re- ferved all further proceedings, until they fhould receive the anfwer of general Montef- quiou,to the friendly communication conveyed through the medium of the French refident. In the mean time, as the whole town felt indignant on account of the freedom of the lake being infringed, an armed veflel was difpatched to aflert the rights of the ftate of Geneva; and to infift upon the free and un- interrupted paflage of all vellels going from the city. The remonftrance fucceeded, and no further obftacle being oppofed, every boat, barge, and fkiff—every veflel that could carry an oar or a fail, was, immediately, employed, and the general hurry and confufion were ten- _ fold increafed. Anxious multitudes thronged on board, and the crowded boats were in danger of being upfet, or funk to the bottom. From the diftrefs and extreme peril nicks intermixed with, and augmented the confufion 15 94 of this difaftrous period, it was rendered highly afflicting. Not only the peace and property, but the lives of numbers were at hazard. ‘To go off in the boats, crowded as they were, was extremely dangerous; but . ftill greater peril awaited longer delay. Hence, at all rifks, thofe who could poffibly find place, ventured themfelves afloat, and, quickly, we faw, from our window, as it were, a whole town moving upon the water. Among the crowd that appeared before the city gates early in the morning, as well as among thofe who left their homes, to efcape from the town, were groupes of the various defcriptions of young and old, male and female, rich and poor, polifhed and vul- gar, all confounded, pall-mall, together. Act- ing from the fudden impulfe of terror, many thought only of the fafety of their perfons ; and fome, in their hafte and anxiety to efcape, ran off without hats or fhoes—fome without _ caps or bonnets. Few, indeed, were enough gollected to regard either propriety or orna- ment of drefs. The countenances of all befpake more important concern; but their » 39 feelings were differently depicted, and fo great was the motley variety of the throng, that had the occafion been lefs painful, the — whole fcene might have appeared as a ludi- crous fpeétacle. But all the circumftances connecting with it, were fo ferious and affli@- ing, that every feeling of levity, which might have arifen from the various incidents of the moment, was abforbed in the general emotion _ of compaffion for the fufferers, Both the fympathy and aftonifhment of the town were excited, in a peculiar manner, towards an unfortunate old lady, nearly eighty years of age, who had heard the alarm in the night-time, and, in order to fave her life, had hurried away on foot, from her place of refidence, and had been com- ‘pelled to walk many miles to reach Ge- neva; where fhe appeared, amidft the terri- ‘fied crowd, before the hour at opening the city gates. Very different was the fenfation created by the misfortune, or rather_by the condud, under misfortune, of a frivolous marquis—a 96 petit maitre who was driven back to the town _ by the rude boat-infpeftors from Verfoy. A party of Englifh who had been acquainted with this emigrant, during his refidence at Geneva, wifhing to affift him in his efcape to the Cantons, had offered him the proteétion of their boat. But the fans-culottes fearchers i =ageicealaea atts of the veffel, finding their ex-countryman on. . board, minutely infpefted every package, plundering the marquis of his, and detaining much of what belonged to his kind pro- tectors ; but, worft of all, they robbed the un- happy marquis of his fhoe-buckles, his knee- buckles, and—his beloved ear-vings ! and then obliged him and the party to return, not fuf- fering the veffel to pafs on account of having an emigrant on board. Upon landing from the boat, this infignificant fribble ran to my brother and myflelf in loud bewailing, forget- _ ful of the greater lofs of his bageage, -and that his life was full in danger, and lament- ing only 66 Jos cheres boucles d oreilles l “OQ! Meffieurs,” cried the wretched fop, “¢ Les vilains republicains ont volé mes boucles d’oreilles. Les gueux! Les voleurs! Les \ 97 énragés democrats! Ils ont volé mes cheres ! boucles d’oreilles! Helas! qu’elles etoient belles! qu’elles etoient fuperbes! O! pourquoi faut il que je les aie perdues! Les voleurs! Les co- quins! Pourgoi faut il qu’ils m’ayent vol¢ mes boucles d’oreilles!’’ All his concern: all his anguith feemed tocentreinthefe idle ornaments -—thefe effeminate appendages of his ears. ’ I need not explain to you the emotion created in our minds by the poor marquis’s griefs. Such ineffable frivolity, exhibited at a moment of the heavielt affli@ion, could not but render its object contemptible. But as foon as the bitter calamity of lofing his ear= drops would allow him to think of his. per- fonal fafety, we, in compaffion to his misfor- tunes, affifled in conveying him, by means of a fmall private boat, to the oppofite fide of the lake, where we put him-on {hore upon the territory of Savoy, and left him to fteaf his way through the vineyards, into the Can» tons of Switzerland, But you will fay that I am ftraying as wide as the marquis, and, like him, dropping VOL. I. : H 98 | trifles in your ears, to the exclufion of more immediate, or more important fubjedts: let me, therefore, return with you tothe Ulyfles, and tell you, that upon reaching the fhip, we had fo anxioufly looked for, we were re- ceived 2s people unknown and unregarded— conducted into a large ward-room, ftrewed : with various kinds of lumber, and there left, as in a'wildernefs. No births had been pre- pared, nor any kind of arrangement made for our accommodation. Not acot was flung ; ~nor any fleeping place allotted. The ward- room was open to all, and was to ferve for the whole of the pafiengers. We were turned in loofe, with fix or eight other perfons, and | foon found ourfelves to be, only, individuals of the general herd—the whole flock being left, at large, like fheep ina common fold. The veffel is commanded by an officer of the navy, and it was no part of his duty - 9 prepare accommodations for paffengers he neither knew nor expected. She ‘is’ one of the old forty-four gun frigates, and carries fome of her guns as an armed tranfport. Had our fhip been a common tranfport, ora mere 99 chantman, I fhould have felt enough at home to have demanded ail we required, but, from not having, before, been paflengers on boarda fhip of war, Cleghorn, Mafter, and mytelf were quite at a lofs how to proceed. For- tunately Henderfon is more au fart to thefe fubjeGts, and from underftanding the neceflary etiquette, kindly took upon himfelf the tafk of meliorating our condition. Having ap- plied, with all due ceremony, to the Governor of our ocean. caftle, he foon fucceeded in bring- ing one of the lieutenants to our aid; who, very obligingly, gave immediate directions for bettering our fituation, and it was gra-« tifying, beyond all the advantages of per- fonal accommodation, to obferve with what promptitude his orders were put into exe- cution. The packages, and other incom- -moding lumber, were quickly removed; and a canvafs partition was put up to divide the ward-room into two feparate apartments ; al- lotting to us that on the flarboard fide. Four cots were flung, in a row, over the cannon, and inclofed with another canvafs running, parallel with the former, throughout the whole length of the ward-room. This formed a | H 2 | Tole) general fleeping birth for our mefs, allowing to each his appropriate drefling room between the feveral guns : and, thus, were we fpeedily accommodated with five diftinét apartments, confifling of a long narrow dining room, and, as we were aflured, four excellent bed-rooms. We were both amufed and gratified in obferving the expertnefs of the fhip’s car~ penters, and all the-men employed upon this occafion ; and it afforded us great pleafure to remark how prompt and obedient they were in executing the commands of their oflicers. On board a tranfport, or a merchantman, feveral days would have been expended, in preparing what was here completed in a fingle hour. afb } As we are only freth-water failors, it was, -hinted, for our information, that the aft, or fternmoft cot, being the upper birth on the ftar- board fide, was deemed the place of honor, and hence appropriated to the ufe of the captain, always, when the officers fleep in the ward- room. My ambition did not lead me to contend for this fickening poft of honor, therefore, in | i x TORz i : poor naufeated ftomach, I, 7 very humbly, required to be allowed to take the loweft cot of the four, and am accordingly indulged with the birth neareft the centre of the fhip, where I lie with my three comrades ~ obedience to my kicking, in a row, at my head. - Our firft night has been reftlefs and _difturbed—the unpleafant heaving of the fhip—the creaking of bulk-heads, and other noifes—the uneafy motion of the cot, and a whole hoft of annoyances, prevented me from fleeping. Ateach movement of the fhip, or the cot, my feet were ftruck againft’ the bulk-head at the bottom of the ward- room; or] was bumped upon the huge can- non ftanding under me; or had Cleghorn’s feet roughly prefented tomy-head. Some of thefe evils arofe from the cot being badly flung, and will be removed; and a few days, I truft, will reconcile me to thofe which cannot be remedied. | i} 104 LETTER Sve Leeward Iiand divifion of the expedition puts to fea. Ap- pearance of the fleet on doubling the pint of the Ifle of Wight. Its faiting forms a grand and pleafing [pectacle. Fire ing of cannon on beard a foip. Author's fenfations convince him that he is no longer upon terra firma. Putrid wa-, _ ter on board the Uljffes. Kitchen Inconveniences. A= thor expects to proceed to Ireland. H. M. 5. Ulyffes, Nov. 15. Tus long expeted day is at length arrived, when our proud fleet {wells its loity fails to feek the enemy. Theloud fignal of departure being given, all the fhips of the Leeward Ifland divifion weighed anchor this morning, and put to fea under a moft favourable, breeze. The Ulyffes being left to wait the failing of | q the convoy tor Cork, we remained tranquil - fpectators, and had every opportunity of en- joying the fcene; which was great, and fplendid, and led me firongly to with that you had been here to witncfs it, with us. The day being fine, and the wind from a ' 102) friendly quarter, the picture was beautiful, as it was grand and animated. On_ pafling round, or, to ufe the failors’ term, on doubling the point of the Ifle of Wight, all the fhips ‘feemed to fall into regular fucceflion, forming a line of numberlefs extent—each elevating her fails, into view, over the territory of the ifland, as though they were contending which fhould be longeft feen ; or, as if ftriving to rival the clouds, in their travels through the fkies, con- {cious that they,too, bore, within them, their thunder, and their lightning. It was a pleafing fpedtacle to every be- holder, andthofewho felt as Englifhmenought, derived, from it, fenfations peculiarly grateful. To witnefs fuch a fleet full-{welling, from our little ifland, into-the broad ocean, to fight our battles in a far diftant country, conveyed ideas of greatnefs and power, which were calculated to raife a juft ambition in every Britith bofom. The fhips of war and tranf- ports exceeded two hundred fail. The im- menfe fhip, the Commerce de Marfeilles, cap- tured at Toulon, is at the head of the convoy, with the admiral, the’ commander in chief aA 104 ee of the army, and nearly a thoufand troops on. board. It is, currently, reported here that the ~ whole of thefe, together with theCork divifion, are to rendezvous at Barbadoes, and, making that the grand depot, proceed, from thence, to the attack of various colonies. | \ For a long time paft has this vaft ar- mament been expected in the Weft Indies, and during many tedious weeks has England, almoft daily, looked for its departure: but to prepare, and fet afloat fuch a fleet, and fuch’ an army, is an undertaking of no trifling magnitude: and far more difficult in the ex- ecution than thofe fuperficial obfervers, who are ignorant.of the fervice, are willing to imagine. If it meets with fair winds, and proceeds without difafter, or unforefeen delay, it may yet arrive at a good feafon, and in time, perhaps, to effec all its intended operations, We were, yefterday, regaled with the loud treat of hearing the fhip’s cannon fired, while we -were on board. Every thing was cleared away, as if preparing for agtion; ay eh 105 all the doors and windows were fet open, and every precaution uled, to prevent injury or accident.’ We remained in the ward-room _during the time of firing the guns, in that part of the fhip, and endeavoured to be ftridly attentive to the effect. It was not unlike a violent ftroke ofele€tricity : and, fora mament, we felt flunned with the thock. The jarring ‘concuffion conveyed the fenfation of the whole fhip having fthivered afunder, or fud- denly burft into atoms; and it feemed matter of furprize that the ears of the failors fhould, ever, become capable of fupporting the fuc- ceflive and violent explofions of a hoftile en- ‘ gagement. NotwithQanding the precaution of letting down the windows, thofe of the quarter gallery were fhattered to pieces. _ You know what a fick and fuffering failor I am, and will not be furprized to learn that the flight motion of the fhip, at anchor, gives me a degree of head-ach, with a fenfe of naufea, and uneafinefs of ftomach. It does not quite amount to ficknefs, but is fuf- ficient to make me know that I am not upon tercafirma, Polflibly the gradual introdudtion 106 effected by our prefent delay, may enable me better to fupport the more fevere motion of failing; and, from growing accuftomed to the fhip, while in harbour, I may be lefs a fufferer when we put to fea, We are daily becoming more fettled, and better reconciled to our floating dwelling: but we are fometimes annoyed by the merry: crowd on the. other fide the canvafs. Some late additions have been made to their party ; and this feems now to be the general mefs, and common receptacle of paflengers ; but, group- edas they are, friends and ftrangers together, we fometimes find that they are fufficiently acquainted to become more loudly joyous than is quite agreeable, in fuch near neigh- DOurs.s As we are to. wait for other fhips, we may now find an opportunity of adding to the f{canty ftock of provifions, which we procured amidft the general fcramble of embarkation; and we hope, alfo, that our veffel will have time to take in a freth fupply of water; for we have, hitherto, fuffered,very feverely, from not \ having any, but what has been putrid and of- fenfive, on board ; and coming, diredlly, to this from the fhore, has rendered it far worfe than if we had been, gradually, compelled to fubmit to it, after being a long time at fea. To myfelf, in particular, this is a weighty misfortune, as I have not the common refourceof flying to wine and beer, as a relief. We have taken to our aid, both purifiers and filtering ftones ; and, very foon, we hope to have good water from the - fhore. We are further affured of having our prefent fufferings compenfated upon the paf- fage ; for the Thames water, now fo offenfive, will foon reftore itfelf, and, becoming fettled and depurated, will be clear and fweet as we could defire. With regard to our eating, likewife, ’tis well we are not of the Epicurean fchool, The many difagreeable {mells, and the heaving motion of the fhip, have much impaired our | appetites ; and, were we fqueamifh, or over-_ dainty, we muft, literally, ftarve ; for our fhip~ _ cuilinier happens to be fit only to cook for the feafoned ftomachs of old Neptune’s hardiet fons, In firength and flature this governor \ ‘ 708 of the galley might be deemed a fit opponent — for Hercules, although his appearance fome- - times calls up the idea of a fable fpirit who had been long broiling in the dark regions of Pluto, His profeffional ignorance is only exceeded by his general ftupidity. He makes us a daily vifit at breakfaft-time, to receive inftrutions regarding dinner; and he, ufually, fumbles upon fome outrageous miftake, or, totally, {fpoils whatever is put into his hands. A few days ago he was defired, together with other _ difhes, to let us have fome beef-fteaks; and ha- ving receivedhis inftructions, he bent his neck, - in refpectful civility, and haftened away : but, within a fingle hour after, lo, and behold! came our cook running and puffing into the ward-room, with a great difh of beef-fteaks, all hot and {moking. He had ufed uncommon expedition in getting them ready, and, added to the blunder of giving us dinner an hour after breakfaft, he had burnt the fteaksasblackashis ~ — own fkin, and as dry as the outfide ofa tea- kettle. As foonas the other veflels are ready, the Ulyfes, we are told, is to proceed with them 109 to Cowes harbour, to join the St. Domingo divifion. It is probable, therefore, that my) next letter may be addrefled to you from Ireland. LiG LETTER Xt. 4 dreadful florm overtakes the fleet. It returns to St. Helen’s in a difabled condition. Author's fenfations during the form. Thofe of other Paffengers unaccuffomed to the fea. Quaint gokes and remarks of the failors, Difmal effects of the gale. Author and his comrades goon foore at Port/mouth, andat the Mle of Wight. Are told that the Ulyffes is to proceed to Cove with the firft fair wind, without waiting jor the convoy. : Spithead, Nov. 19. Winks in my laft, I mentioned to you the grand and fplendid fight we had witneffed, in the failing of an important divifion of our great expedition, I did not anticipate the painful reverfe of, thus foon, communica- ting the unhappy tidings of its return. But, alas! how uncertain are all human expec- tations! Pleafed as we were at the proud failing of this fleet, only a few days fince ; now, we fhould rejoice, ftill more, could we fee’ every fhip again fafe in harbour. We, yefterday, experienced a moft tremen- dous gale, which, from its difaftrous effects es among the thipping at Spithead, led to very painful apprehenfions concerning the fleet which had fo lately gone to fea. The wind having fhifted to an unfavourable point, and blowing with great violence, it was manifeft that the convoy could. not proceed; and but too evident, that many of the fhips muft be damaged or loft; and I am forry to add that we are, already, witneffing the melancholy con- firmation of our fears, for the fleet not having cleared the channel, was unable to weather the ftorm, and, during the whole of this day, different thips have been dropping in at St. Helen’s, in a fadly difabled ftate, bringing fill _ worfe tidings of thofe left behind. A ftorm fo violent and defiructive has feldom been. known in. this climate; indeed, many who had been in the Weft Indies, remarked, that it was fearcely inferior to a tropical hurricane. Even the admiral’s fhip was in extreme peril, - and, with great difficulty, weathered the gale. She is now brought back in a much injured condition, being very leaky, and having a con- fiderable depth of water in her hold. So alarming was her fituation, during the form, that if the boifterous elements had raged on but a little longer, fhe had, probably, gone to EI2 the bottom, with the general, the admiral, and nearly two thoufand fouls on board. We are told that fhe is fo damaged as to be unfit for further fervice, and that, notwithftanding the large fum lately expended in repairing her, fhe can never, again, be fit to go to fea. The confufion of a crowded convoy in- creafed the danger of the gale. Some veffels became ungovernable, and ran on board each other ; fome had their fails {plit; others were difmafted; fome loft their bowfprits; and {carcely any efcaped without more or lefs of injury. Many were loft upon our own: fhores—others were wrecked upon the coaft of France—-fome f{prang a leak—and feveral, alas! foundered and funk. Thofe, even, of the crews, whoare made prifoners, from their fhips having been blown upon the enemy’s fhore, have much caufe to be happy—for others, lefs fortunate, fharing the fate of their veflels, perifhed in the fathomlefs deep. Great multitudes are known to be loft; but the full extent of this fad difafter cannot yet be afcertained, for crippled fhips ftill continue to drop in: it is therefore hoped that fome may ~ 1.8 appear which report leads us not to expedt. Among the more hopelefs is the Stanley, with fome hundreds of troops on board. Of this fhip not the flighteft intelligence can be learned, from any one yet returned. She is fuppofed to have gone to the bottom, and all hands to have perifhed! What a fad and melancholy change! Ey how flender a thread are the hopes of man fufpended!) This great fleet which had coft fo much time, and toil in its equipment ; and which, under the faireft ‘profpects, fo lately fwelled her fails to feek the broad ocean, is already defeated, dif- abled, and brought to ruin! What an exam- ple! What a ftriking proof of the weaknefs of human forefight; and the uncertainty of all our wifeft calculations ! The damage done to the veflels, imme- diately around us, and the perilous ftate of our own fhip, although lying at anchor, had caufed a too faithful reprefentation of the evils which might have befallen us, had we been on our _paflage to Ireland; and rendered us happy in not having, previoufly, gone to fea. Signals of diftrefs were heard on all quarters. Pieces FOL I. a ! 11 of maits, cordage, and planks floated by the fides of the Ulyffes: All was hurry and alarm around us. Many veflelsnear tous wereinjured —fome, driven from their anchors, drifted on. board other thips, or were caft on fhore, and, being there wrecked, remained, before our eyes, fad examples of the greater difafters to be apprehended from the ftorm. | Such, even, was the perilous infecurity of the Ulyffes, that although, to ufe the fea-term, we had lowered our top-mafis, and made all fnug, it was deemed expedient to prepare the guns, for the purpofe of firing fignals of dif ~trefs ; and, had the gale continued much lon- ger, we might have required afiiftance, which, at fuch a moment, it had been impoffible to obtain. : T was, exceflively, fick and ill; and from the deep rolling, eavy toflings, and the many troubled motions of the fhip, was quite unable to fupport myfelf upon my legs. Staggering and {tumbling I crawled out of the ward-room to the middle of the half-deck, to feek a more central part of the fhip, and, there, clinging T1r5 to fome firm hold, remained, fick and com- fortlefs, to wear out a moft diftrefsful day. AffliGed with head-ach, a naufeated ftomach, and trembling limbs, my contemplations were not of the moft confolatory nature. I faw all the evils that were to befal our fleet under their moft gloomy colors. I beheld the con- voy difperfed ; thips ftruggling in the gale; my fellow creatures {inking ; and the whole expedition difcomfited: the mind fympa- thizing with the fickened frame, all was pictured as one grand fcene of difafter and deftruGion. My friend Mafter, and fome others on. board, fuffered ftill more feverely than I did; for, by fixing myfelf to the fpot where I found a free circulation of air, and, com- paratively, but little motion, the naufea, which diftrefled me, did not proceed to the viclent, and almoft inceflant reaching, with which they were afflicted. In the midft of our apprehenfions, and our danger, I could not but notice the ftrange remarks, and quaint jokes which pafled among 12 ; 116 the failors, who were, varioutly, actuated by feelings of indolence, anxiety, or in- difference. One of them being called upon deck, and defired to go aloft, todo fomething that was expedient at the top of the matt, idly crawled up, from below, muttering, “I'd rather be drowned in the fea, dammee, than at the maft-head”—another, obferving a paflenger in a fevere fit of vomiting, ex- claimed—“ dammee, he’s only fick. for want o’grog”—and a third, as if refponfive to the other, called out, “ {tiff breeze Jack. He'll be worfe yet! Steward! why don’t you give the gentleman a piece of fat pork to fettle his ftomach.” About five o’clock in the evening the ftorm began to abate; when torrents of rain leffened the wind, and brought the failors fome refpite from the haraffing, and perilous duties of the day. From thofe who have re- turned in fafety we hear many details of real, — and of imaginary diftrefs, of ludicrous in- cidents, and of very truly afflicting, and me- Jancholy events; but the diftrefsful fum of the whole is, that the fleet is feverely damaged s } 1i7 many {hips are loft ; numbers of fouls have perifhed ; and the whole expedition is difabled and delayed. To repeat to you all the afflicting reports we hear on the fubje&, would fwell my letter into a volume: for, in addition to real and ferious ills, the reprefentations of paf- fengers, not accuftomed to the fea, magnify. thofe of lefs importance into a terrific ca- talogue of injuries and difafters. Some loft their baggage—fome their ftock and provi- fions: One laments his pig —another his goat —another his poultry: Some were floating in their births, from water dafhing in at the {cuttles ; and others, finding the fea break in at the ftern and quarter-gallery windows, fan- cied themfelves to be drowning in their beds. Pigs and fheep, chickens and ducks were wathed away by dozens. Hen-coops, filled with poultry, boats, bmnacles, and quarter boards were all {wept off by the violence of the wind, or by the heavy feas that broke over the deck. Hogs and fheep put to fea in open boats ; ducks and geefe fwam off in their coops; naked goats fought the waves ; even ES 7 118 chickens and turkies took to the water, and all were feen {fwimming upon the ocean together, _ We were on fhore this morning at Portf- mouth, and, from the ramparts, faw the fhips of the returning fleet affembled in foreft crowd at St. Helen’s. From thence, alfo, we had a more ample demonftration of the effets which - the ftorm had produced immediately around us ; and I am forry to tell you that we find the injury more extenfive than we had imagined. Five or fix veflels lie, caft on fhore, clofe to the town, and feveral are driven aground in Stokes’ Bay. Two are lying near to South-fea Caftle; an artillery fhip, with the Ocean tranfport, and a gun-boat, are on fhore diretly under the ramparts, and lying, dry, quite out of thefea. Some, it is hoped, may be got off again, others are fo much injured, that they- - will be entirely loft. Our vilit to Portfinouth was for the pure pofe of procuring fome additional provifions for the paflage, and completing other neceflary purchafes; and, with acknowledgments for _your kind attention, |!may announce ‘to you ‘ = fis 119 that it afforded me the opportunity of receiving the gay fword, and {carlet embroidered fuit, in which your friend is dire€ted to exhibit his perfon. | We have alfo had a pleafant ramble, fince I laft wrote to you, to the Ifle of Wight, in fearch of eggs, poultry, and pigs to add to our fea ftore. _ The report is, again, revived that we are to avail ourfelves of the firft hour of a fair wind to proceed to Cork, without waiting for any other veffel ; and we are all of accord in wifhing this may prove corre, for our prefent ftate of fufpenfe and uncertainty is growing, moft fadly, tedious and difagreeable. fa 120 LETTER XIL Military incertitude not inferior to the glorious uncertainty of the law. Examples in proof ofthis. The Ulyffes deftined to make a running paffage, with troops, to Martinique, Punifoment of flogging a failor round the fleet. H. M.S. Ulyfles, Nov. 23. "Tur uncertainty of the law has eftablifhed itfelfinto an adage : but I begin to fufpeét that, proverbial as it is, it muft yield to the fuperior incertitude of military fervice. Even the fickle elements, with which this fo intimately conneéts, are out-rivalled by it; for, uncertainty is, equally, its principle and its purfuit. | In_ my laft letter I mentioned to you that we were to proceed to Cove the moment the wind was fair, and, in this idea, we had written to our friends defiring them not to addrefs us, again, at Spithead, but to fend their letters to Ireland, that they might meet us at Cork. Now, we - find that our deftination is again changed, and indeed, within the two laft days, it has been fo rapidly altered and confirmed, fixed, reverfed, varied, and changed, again and again, that we I2i are, totally, at a lofs on what affurance to fix our faith. Yefterday we heard of new doubts and delays. The ftores of the Ulyffes were to be unftowed, in order to examine if any of them were injured by the gale ; they were to be removed, and the veffel given to the fervice | of the Leeward Ifland army; fhe was to pro- ceed dire& to the Welt Indies with troops of Sir Ralph Abercromby’s divifion ; to go im- mediately to Cork, to take on board troops’ of the St. Domingo divifion; to be converted into an hofpital fhip; into a tranfport for ftores, &c. Sc. &c., fo that, within the fhort round of twenty-four hours, the fhip and our- felves were deftined toan almoftinfinite variety _ of ftations and purpofes. To-day the reports have not been lels multiplied or lefs varied, and the deftination of the Ulyffes, and her paflengers, has changed with almoft every pafling hour. In the morning it was fettled that the fhip was to proceed to the Weft Indies, with the Leeward Ifland convoy ; and that we were to remain on board, during her : pallage down the Channel, but were to be dif- / i122 tributed, into different fhips of the St. Domingo divifion, on arriving at a certain latitude, or whenever we fhould fall in with the St. Do- mingo convoy, from Cork; and this being mentioned to us as the final arrangement, we wrote a hurried line to a friend at Cove, beg-— ging him to take charge of our letters, until we fthould meet at fea, or at St. Domingo. At noon the infpector general of hofpitals came on “board to announce to us that the Uly fies was to be, completely, fitted as an hofpital hip, for the St. Domingo army ; and to be the receiving fhip of the Cork divifion, during the paflage ; and, further, that we were not only to continue on board, but officially, and to confider our- felvesonduty. Yet fcarcely had one fhort hour paffled away before a different arrangement | was made; for, at one o'clock, it was again decided that the Ulyfies fhould proceed to _Cork, and take in troops for St. Domingo ; and fo completely did this feem to be fixed, that the purfer of the Trufty man of war, who was going to join his fhip, put his baggage on board, and fet off to Cork, by way of Milford Haven, affured of meeting the Ulyfles at Cove. But evening had not ar- ~- 123 rived before a new.change fucceeded ; and we fy were now told that it was jimally fettled for the Ulyffes to go in company with two or three other fhips of war, and make a run- ning paflage to Martinique, in order to haften thither a body of troops, without waiting the interruptions, and tedious delays of a convoy; and, to this end, veflels were to be alongfide, early in the morning, to take out all the ftores belonging to the St. Domingo divifion, ; : | ‘Prefently, after we had heard the latter report, the lieutenant, commanding the fhip, came on board with inftruétions to the fame effet.’ This, therefore, ftands as the final arrangement: but we have already known fo many jizal arrangements that we begin to regard a /aff decifion, with refpe@& to the ~ Diyffes, in the light of a diplomatic w/- timatum—fifty times renewed! What the morrow may bring forth is yet in, embryo, and exceedingly doubtful: but the com- toanding officer having received his official inftructions, probability would feem to ren- der the prefent decifion conclufive. ) £84 How we are to be dipofed of is not yet | determined, but, in cafe of this plan being adopted, we fhall, no doubt, be driven to feek our births elfewhere. | I had almoft forgot to notice to you that, a few mornings fince, we had an oppor- tunity of witnefling the diftrefsful ceremony of flogging a failor round the fleet, in con- fequence of a fentence paffed upon him for defertion. That the fufferer might be ex- hibited with all the parade of a public pu- nifhment, and that all due folemnity might be given to it, a number of boats, from the dif- | ferent fhips of war, were ordered to attend in proceffion. The man belonged to the Trufty. He was, accordingly, placed in the long-boat of that fhip, and made to ftand up, with his _ back uncovered ; and when, the other boats had affembled around him, to the number of | fifteen, they all proceeded, in flow and folemn movement, to the feveral fhips, whence thele boats had been difpatched. Upon arriving at the fide of each fhip, the boats refted on | their oars; and the fhip’s company being piped upon deck, to witnefs the fpectacle, ten ate 125 _ ftripes were infli€ted upon the bare back of the delinquent—thus dividing the fentence of a hundred and fifty lafhes, into fifteen fe. parate punifhments, according to the number - Of fhips, whofe boats attended. In this way _ the difgrace, refulting from the crime, was made public, and the punifhment not only rendered more fevere, but fo conduGed as to be an example to the whole fleet. 126 LETTER XI Author and his comrades again on fhore. Portfmouth thronged, and many compelled to fleep in chairs, hammocks, —€5%c, Author obtains a bed by ftratagem. St. Domingo Jlores removed from the Ulyffes ; and the focial quartette of the wardroom ordered to feparate into the George and Bridget, and the Lord Sheffield tranfports. Further ace count of the difaftrous effetts of the form. Author and Lis comrades fuppofed to have been at fea with the convoy. Felicitations of an old lady at Gofport, on feeing Dr. Cleg= harn fafely returned. Portfmouth, Nov. 3o. Portsmoure! methinks, I hear you ex= claim! What, again on fhore? Yes, again on fhore ! and, in England, too! Be not furpriz- ed! I have already told you that it is not lefs difficult to know our ultimatum, than that of a political negociation. Since 1 wrote to you laft we have remained in a moft unfettled ftate, wandering from Spithead to Portf{mouth, and from Portfmouth to Spithead, even as men without a home—/zrs lodging on fhore —/ans birth on board. Some nights we have pafled in the Ulyffes—others we have flept at Portfmouth ;-but, in either, we have felt our« & 4 ¥eg felves mere intruders, the fhip having been one erand {cene of hurry and confufion—the town a great and overflowing throng. In confe- quence of the fleet returning, every inn, and every houfe is fo crowded that beds cannot be procured—hence fome fleep upon tables, fome in chairs, and fome in hammocks, hung in the fitting rooms ; while others find other expedients for the night. 3 ‘ Laft night I was indebted to my pro- feffion for my pillow. I had gone the whole round of the town, and had fought through- out every ftreet, and almoft every houfe, in vain, when I was compelled to have recourfe to arufe de guerre, and by a ftratagem, which I truft you will allow to have been both watrantable and innocent, fucceeded in procuring an excellent bed, whilft many” others were obliged to fit up the whole night. : The hour was late. I was ready to drop with fatigue, and had quite defpaired of finding a refting place by other means, hence, neceflity feeming to fandtion the ex- 128 ~ pedient, having chanced to hear that the land- lord of one of the inns was ill, and confined to his room, and having once feen him, and. heard his name, I walked ftraight into the bar, and, addreffing myfelf to his lady, with- out afking for a bed—or entering upon other fubjects, inquired civilly after Mr. : The good lady, taking it for granted that T was well acquainted with her hufband, thanked me,—entered into a long detail of the fymptoms of his complaint, and with an ap- peal, which implied that fhe had not miftaken my profeffion, afked what might be moft likely to give him relief —expreffing herfelf — erateful for the hints I fuggefted; and, after converfing a fhort time, upon indifferent fub- jects, and drinking a glafs of brandy and wa- . ter, I had the good fortune to be accommo- dated with one of the beft beds in the houfe ; which had, probably, been referved in cafe’ any particular friend, or any officer of high rank or intereft fhould apply in diftrefs.— You, my friend,’ will give me credit for hav- ing contributed all in my power to the relief of Mr. — , before I left his houfe in the morning. bee It is now reported that three forty-four gun fhips, viz. the Ulyffes, the Experiment, and the Charon, are to take in the troops, ‘which, during the gale, were in fuch ex- treme peril on board the vat and unwieldy Commerce de Marfeilles, and to run out with them, as fpeedily as poflible, to the Weft ‘Indies, Confiftent with this arrangement, vel- fels came alongfide the Ulyffes early on the - morning of the 26th inftant, for the purpofe of removing the St. Domingo ftores; and «the hofpital packages, which were ftowed in this fhip, are now diftributed into two or three different veflels; which is an improvement, gained by the change, for fhould either of thefe fhips chance to be loft, captured, or de- layed, ftill a proportion of the flores may fafely arrive in the others. Further advan- tages may alfo derive from the diftribution, as an aflortment will be more conveniently at hand for any cafe of emergency —fuch as immediate ' or unexpected fervice, de- tachments, or fupplying diilerent iflands or colonies. | | VOL. kk K 130 You will feel that, with refpe& to our- felves, it were difficult to acknowledge fimilar advantages from the feparation of our happy and focial mefs, although we are; likewife, obliged to make a divifion of our ftores, and mefs-apparatus, being now inftructed. to make the voyage in different fhips. This is matter of high regret to us all, and the more fo, as — we had been long enough together to become ~well acquainted, and happy in each other’s fociety, befides having jointly provided our- ~felves for the voyage. But it confifts with the many uncertainties that furround us, and is quite within the limits of our expecta- tion. We have received orders to repair, two of us to the George and Bridget, and two. | to the Lord Shefheld: Mafter and myfelf feel ourfelves fortunate in being appointed to the “latter, for we had been on board the George and Bridget, and had not acquired any ftrong predilection in her favor. She wears the appearance of a heavy, dull-failing veflel ; and feems not to offer any thing fuperior in her accommodations, The cabin “is deep, 4 131. dark, and gloomy, and her general appearance conveys nothing of neatnefs nor arrangement, but all about her looks /ombre, unclean, and — comfortlefs. The Lord Sheffield we have not yet feen, but her captain tells us fhe is a faft failing fhip, and fitted up in a fuperior ftyle, with her cabin neat, light, and lively -as a “ drawing-room.” We do not give implicit confidence to the report of one fo ftrongly interefted in {peaking her fair; but the probabilities are much in her favor, the being a Weft India trader, and, no doubt, better fitted for paflengers, and better adapted, in all refpects, for a tropical climate. ‘The George and Bridget is a large Baltic timber fhip, and, of courfe, has not had the fame oc- -cafion either for conveying or accommodating paflengers. | / _ Mafter and myfelf have alfo the prof- pect of a further advantage in the fociety of our friendly infpector Mr. Weir, who intends to take his birth on board the Lord Sheffield. Should we be fortunate enough thus to form - a trio, we. fhall have far lefs caufe to feel our regretted feparation than our friends K 2 132 who are doomed to make the voyage in the gloomy George and Bridget. ) We have met with many of the officers at Portfmouth who were out, in the fleet, during the late deftru@ive gale. Their re- ports dre fad and afflicting beyond all the |, fuggeftions even of fearful anticipation. De- dudting in due allowance for the augmented terrors of young and irefh-water failors, {till the whole fcene, and its refult have been moft painfully difaftrous; for, melancholy to re- peat! multitudes of fouls have perifhed ; and, no lefs than fix.or feven veffels have not been heard of fince the ftorm. By our letters we find that many of our friends had imagined us to be at fea, and, confequently, they had read our deftiny in fate’s. darkeit page. We are happy in the power of relieving them from their fears, 7 bd a » and rejoice that thofe with whom we were in the habit of more immediate correfpon- dence, have not been Stes | to fimilar ap= prehenfions. 8 ‘From ; a like error having obtained here, we are hailed, by almoft all we meet, with cordial greetings on our fafe return, In our walk, through the ftreets of Gofport, we chanced to fee an old lady, with whom Dr. Cleghor n had been an inmate, during his at- tendance at the Haflar hofpital, and the very inflant the good old dame efpied us, fhe ran tous, with out ftretched arms, and welcoming } the door, with warm embraces, fpake. the ‘i auxious fears with which her bofom had beat towards him; while fhe expreffed herfelf enraptured to meet him, again, fafe on fhore. Never were friendfhip and regard more ‘na- turally, or more powerfully evinced. The good old woman’s eyes alternatcly overflowed with tears, or fparkled with youthful fire: and fhe told the ansious griefs, and vivid terrors fhe had fuffered, with all the glowing expreffion of a fond mother who had juft re- covered her loft, and only fon. _ Upon fuch occafions the anxiety of im- mediate friends and relatives is an expe@ted tribute, and it operates as a confolation and fupport in the hour of peril. But the acute 2a ry4 and impreffive concern of this kind-hearted old woman furpaffed all that is looked for on the part of thofe, who only ftand in the. re- lation of diftant acquaintances. Tt was, in fo far, the more grateful, and not only did honor to human nature, but ftood in proof of the high worth, and refpeétability of our efteemed comrade. oe 4 135 5) LETTER .XIV. Perilous expedition of the author and others to the Mother- bank. They fave themfelves on board the Diana frigate. Hofpitality and humane attentions of the officers of that Jfoip. _ Lieutenant Davy-a valuable officer, and an accom plifoed man. Author and the companions o of his peril pafs the night on board the Diana. Proceed ta the Mother bank, and embark on board the Lord Sheffield. ir): ime preffion from the appearance of that Jip highly favorable, Mother-bank, Dec. 3. My, late letter to you, from Portfmouth, © had nearly been a laft addrefs. In my paf- {age from thence to the Lord Sheffield, at the Mother-bank, I was expofed to fuch immi- nent peril as to have had fcarcely a hope of -efcape, The neceflary arrangements being _madeé for occupying our new births, I left Port{mouth in a {mall four-oared boat, be- longing to the Lord Sheffield, accompanied by Mr. Jaffray (the mafter of the fhip) and Mr. MLean, of the hofpital department ; when, on our way to the Mother-bank, we . were fuddenly overtaken by a violent, and, fituated as we were, moft perilous: ftorm. a 13 6 The fky blackened ; the tearing winds roared; and the tumid fea,. gathering into frightful mountains, rufhed before the wind in boif- terous loudnefs, threatening us with inflant deftruGtion. Toffed from wave to wave, and dafhed and rolled about, amid’% the broken nountains of water, every moment feemed likely to be ourlatt ; for any one of the heavy. feas might have-upfet our little bark, or have broken over us, and fent us at once, to the bot- tom. Befet by multitudes of rugged and liquid hills, rupturing on all quarters, and rolling and tumbling one over another towards her, fo {mall a boat feemed to have no chance, nor even a poflibility of maintaining herfelf upon the rude and ever changing furface. © From the deep, {welling of the fea, together with the conflant agitation and breaking of the waves, the failors could not take fufficient depth to pull fteadily with their oars ; nor ‘could the boat be made to obey the helm, At one moment we were raifed, as it were, ona pinnacle—at the next ingulphed in deep fhade between two roaring furges, towering ‘high: above us, and feeming to fay, % Ye. fhall never rife again.” Yet, quickly, were 7 ae - we caft upon a new formed fummit, and as fuddenly dafhed again into the vale of fill | more rugged billows, each contending in hafty firife, which fhould be the meflenger of our fate. Poor M‘Lean, who had taken his feat at the bow, in order to trim the boat, trem- bled, and turned pale with fear; the failors grew tired and diflatished ; and the captain, with a countenance ftrongly expreflive of trouble and .anxiety, begged of us not to {peak, left we fhould divert his attention from the helm; upon the management of which our only chance feemed to depend. Sitting at his elbow, in dead filence, as he defired, [ carefully, watched his features as the barome- ter of my bopes and fears, and you will be- lieve that I felt not much at eafe, upon ob- ferving him betray manifeft fymptoms of alarm. To move was even worfe than to {peak, and might be inftant deftru@ion to us — all, hence it only remained to us to fit in folemn ftillnefs, and meet whatever fate fhould overtake us. 138 The captain affures me that I behaved uncommonly well, upon the occafion ; but Ff fear all the merit due to me was merely ne- gative, for I am not fure that my conduc. was not more the effeé of refignation, than of MRR ee that no effort, no power that | poticiled, could, in any degree, aid our fafety,: F-re iris myfelf, in implicit obes dience, to the captain’s better judgment ; and, without exprefling, indeed I might fay, without harbouring ufelefs fears, fat calmly prepared for any refult that mig : occur, To reach the Lord Sheffield was abfo- “dutely impoffible; forthe wind and tide were bot In concert ‘io the florm, to prevent it: and to return to Portfmouth was, {carcely, ; “Tefs. difficult, or lefs perilous, from the in=. ability of our little boat to refit the. ‘enor-_ mous following waves, impelled by all the force of the gale and the tide. In this critical dilemma it was decided that we fhould bear away, and fteer for the neareft hip there was any hope of our being 139 able to fetch, and the captain, encouraging the failors to continue at their oars, and bear away to leeward, directed the helm accord- ingly. In this attempt we ftruggled on, often wafhed with the heavy fprays, which ftruck againft the boat, and as frequently almoft ups _ fet by the tearing gufts of wind, or driven to the bottom by the difordered waves. But perfeverance, together with great dexterity ‘and addrefs in the management of the boat,” at length, fucceeded in bringing us alongfide the Diana frigate, where we were kindly re- ceived, and even cherifhed as friends refcued from the devouring deep. - Having witneffed the danger to which we had been expofed, the officers, in the moft liberal manner, welcomed.us on board, and refufing to hear a word of apology, infifted upon our not attempting to put to fea again until every appearance of the gale had fub- fided. Indeed they gave orders that our boat fhould be hoifted on board, and defired that we would think only of making ourfelves comfortable forthe night, In this they were / 140 ee. imperative, nor will you imagine that our obedience was reluctant. The Diana was under the command of Lieutenant Davy, in the abfence of Captain. Faulkener. ‘This gentleman gave directions | for our receiving every accommodation the — fhip could afford, and tendeted his fervices in a manner that made it grateful to accept | the kindnefs beftowed, Every individual feemed to. emulate the commanding officer in his friendly attention towards our party, infomuch that we had caufe to rejoice in the peril that had caft us on board, As foon as we were made dry, and, enabled to feel a little like ourfelves, we were invited to the dinner table of the mefs. The board was fpread with plenty, and we par- | took with Mr. Davy, and the whole party of officers, who all vied with each other in kind hofpitality towards the refcued flrangers. Good humour prevailed; the converfation was agreeable; and the bottle pafled freely until evening, when a party was formed to TAD. a rubber at whift, and, at night, we were conducted to fome of the beft births of the fhip. It happened that captain Jaffray recog- nifed an old acquaintance, in the perfon of the furgeon, and M’Lean proved to be known to one of the young gentlemen of the cock- pit, fo that we were not fuch entire ftrangers as we had expected. We were pleafed to hear every perfon, with whom we converfed, {peak of licute- nant Davy in the higheft terms of praife. He was entitled to our beft withes, and we owed him much refpeét and gratitude, we were, therefore, exceedingly happy to learn that he had equally the efteem of his captain, his mefs-mates, and the failors. Asan officer he is refpected by all, and he is equally va- lued, and beloved as a man. Combining a pleafant fuavity of manners, and mildnetfs of command, with a corre¢t, and firm diicipline, ~ he proves himfelf to be at once a failor, and agentleman. Active and {pirited as an of- ficer, he is an example to thole about him, =| 142 and the regularity and order which. obtaiti throughout the fhip, and govern all its du= ties, evince the promptitude with which fuch an example is followed. The failors’ both: Jove and refpe& him, and they obey him from inclination, while they fear to offend him. As a companion, he is amiable and engaging. His addrefs is eafy; his manners are accomplifhed; and, independent of his great kindnefs to us, in the hour of peril, his general conduct, and the handfome report ef his meffmates, could not but call forth our’ efteem. ae We paffed the night in reft and comfort. - In the morning the weather was fettled and fine, therefore, after taking breakfaft with the © Diana’s pleafant mefs, our boat was lowered — down, and we made the beft of our way to the Lord Sheffield, reluctantly quitting the héfpitable party, with whom misfortune’ had | brought us acquainted. 3 ‘Without further interruption we reached — the Mother-bank, and I have now the pleafure _ toaddrefs you,infafety, fromthe Lord Shefheld, ~ 143) a very fine Weft India fhip, and as fuperior to the gloomy George and Bridget, even as her captain had reprefented. She is thoroughly clean, has a general air of neatnefs, and, if we _may judge from her appearance, feems likely to verify the commander’s report of her fail- ing. She is conveniently fitted out for paf- fengers, and is, exprefsly, calculated for the Weft Indies, having awnings, {cuttles, port. holes and all the necefiary accommodations | for the climate. The cabin is commodious, and is fitted up with mahogany wainfcot, pier glaffes, chairs, fofa, &c. due regard being paid to tafte and ornament. We have feveral guns on board, and wear the appearance of being well armed, but the ‘fhip is not fufficie ntly manned to defend herfelf avain{ft a regular attack, and this is what we have moft to lament in our change from the Ulyffes, for, perhaps, in moft other refpects our fituation is improved. In point of con- venience and accommodation the Lord Shef- field is far preferable to our late favorite— the cabin being a neat and difting fitting room, and the fleeping births, feparate ftate. T44— roomsentirely fhut away from it, and encloféd as private apartments. Here we fhall require no canvafs partition to keep us from the noify crowd of another mefs, but may feel ourfelves as retired and uninterrupted as ‘we could be in a private room on fhore. | oo 145 { LETTER XV. Excurfion to the Commerce de Marfille at St. Helen's, Appearance of that pip as viewed from a /mall boat at her fide. Author vifits his comrades on board the George and Bridget : goes to the play at Port{mouth. Tumul- tuous proceedings at the Theatre. Author returns to the Lord Sheffield. Dr. Cleghorn joins the mefs on board that foip.. Symptoms of failing. Linen taken wet from the wafb- tub. ! Lord Sheffield, Dec. 8. y ogee I have been unfettled, and moving about from place to place, making my home {ometimes on board, fometimes on fhore. Up- on examining my baggage, foon after I joined the Lord Sheffield, I perceived that one of my boxes was mifling ; and it has coft me a long, and very fickly round, to recover it, in con- fequence of our old fhip, the Ulyffes, having changed her birth, and dropped down to St. Helen’s to take in troops from the Commerce de Marfeilles. In following her we were brought into an open and heavy-f{welling fea, the motion of which made me very unwell, and led me to contemplate the probable fuf- “VOL. I. i . 146° _ ferings I fhall have to fupport upon the long © Ht voyage we are about to undertake. ‘ Capt. Jaffray never having been on board a fhip of fuch immenfe bulk, availed himfelf of my neceflities, and took the com= mand of the boat, upon this excurfion, in or- der to view the vaft Commerce de Marfeilles. I with it were practicable to convey to you, in words, the fenfe of grandeur with which the mind is infpired on firft approaching fuch an enormous floating battery; or to paint to you the fenfations excited by rowing, in a {mall boat, clofe under her ftern, and her fides ; but it were quite impoffible for the pen to de- {cribe how diminutive we felt, and how im- menfe and wonderful fhe appeared—To exprefs it by the image of the knat and the camel, it were necefiary to fuppofe the former the minuteft of its race, and the latter hugely overgrown. Looking up from our little fkiff — the fight was truly awful—the figure of the fhip was forgotten —the hull appeared a moun- tain, the mafts lofty obelifks erected upon it; and the tremendous batteries, projeCting ~ from her fides, conveyed the idea of a flu- 147 pendous rock hanging over us, fortified with | ¥ many tiers of cannon, We alfo availed ourfelves of this ex- curfion to make a vifit to our friends on board the George and Bridget, which fhip appears ftill more /ombre and uncomfortable, after wit- nefling the neatnefs of the Lord.Sheffield. — Having to pafs another night or two at Portfmouth, and finding that a company of players had arrived, we took the opportunity of vifiting the theatre. The performance, as might be expected, was tres mediocre, yet it might have pafled off tolerably well, and with fufficient amufement for the evening, but for an unhappy interruption, which arofe from fome of the actors oppofing the will of the audience, refpecting a fong, and imtro- duced a fcene of tumult and diforder, very like what I before mentioned to you from Southampton. | | The performers at the country theatres do not feem to feel, like thofe of the London boards, how much they are the fervants of the L2 148 public. In town, it may be remarked that the houfe, on all occafions, is perfectly obedient to the audience. This is difcreet on the part of the managers and the actors, and entitles them to fome merit , for it is often | a matter of aftonifhment and admiration how © they can govern themfelves, fo implicitly as they do, and maintain enough of forbearance to bend fubmiffive to the will of the public. The loyal fong of “ God fave the King” being called for, fome of the performers ad- vanced to the front of the ftage, and, bowing to the audience, obtained a, general filence, from the idea that they came forward to fing it: but, to the furprize of the multitude, they began the air of “ Rule Britannia,” which, however grateful to the ears of Englifhmen, was not the fong demanded ; therefore from afenfe of indignity, at the aétors affuming the quality of dictators, they ftrenuouily op- — pofed it, and a violent clamor enfued. “ Rule Britannia’ was, however, continued, notwith- ftanding the loud oppofition, and the general cry for ‘* God fave the King;” and after _ having gone throug this, amidft all the con- 149 fufion of groans, hiffes, and every noife of difapprobation, one of the actors advanced a ftep before the others, and infolently brand- ifhing his arms, began the fong that had been called for, which was then fung without {pirit, and with the moft carelefs indiffer- - ence. Tell me if a London audience would have fubmitted to fuch an infult; or if a metropolitan performer would have been . hardy or imprudent enough to have hazarded fuch mifcondu& -—No! methinks I hear you reply : he would have been driven from the ftage, and would never have dared never have prefumed to return, until repentance and humility had led him forth, in due fub- miffion, to offer his apologies. We returned, yefterday, to the Lord - Sheffield, and you will be glad to know that we were accompanied by our friend Cleghorn, who, in confequence of a new arrangement, is permitted to join our mefs, fo that we have again the profpeét of crofling the Atlantic pleafantly ex guartette. Dr. Henderfonis lefs fortunate, for, while we are, agreeably, af- fociated to our former number of profeffional “> 150 colleagues, he is left to make the paflage alone, | or, perhaps, crowded with ftrangers in the gloomy George and Bridget: nor do cir- cumftances now feem to afford any probability of a turther change, for both the appearance . of ‘the weather, and the report of the hour, feem to imply that we-have, at length, made our final vifit on fhore. To-day a fignal has been given for the fleet to unmoor; and, in confequence of this, the Lord Shefheld has dropped down from the Mother-bank to the Eaftern part of Spithead.—We have taken the precaution of bringing our linen on board, wet from the wath-tub, left we fhould be compelled to leave it behind, for fhould the wind continue at the point from which it now blows, we may be ~ to-morrow on our paflage. 15% LEVER: XVI. Convoy fails on the oth of December. Author promiles to make notes on the paffage for his friend, if the fea will let him. Splendid appearance of the convoy. It meets with — tempeftuous weather, Defcribtion of aflormat fea. Ele- _ ments hoftile to the expedition. Gale repeated. Lord Sheffield left alone upon the ocean—Prevented from giving relief toa finking fhip. A melancholy and afffitting fcene enfues. | Lord Sheffield, at fea, Dec. 3r. Ar length we are at fea! the convoy failed from Spithead and St. Helens, the day after I fent you my laft letter, and I now lift my pen to you upon the bofom of the wide Atlantic. From the time of the ever mee | morable attempt of the fleet to proceed upon the voyage, in the month of November, the adverfe winds, which had driven it back, in fo fhattered and difaftrous a condition, detained it, in harbour, until the gth inftant, when it again put to fea under a ferene | fky, and propitious breezes; but, notwith- ftanding thefe favorable appearances, we have, fince, had a moft haraffing and peril. ous fucceffion of ftorms, one having, {carcely, L 4 152 fubfided before it has been followed by an- other, and I have now {fo ‘entirely loft my confidence in the weather, that although Iam fitting in tolerable quietnefs to write to you, at this moment, I fcarcely dare hope to finifh my letter before I am again tofled from my feat, by a renewal of the gale— feeling that the prefent may be only one. of thofe fhort refpites, which, like the delufive Intervals of convulfion, only prepare the body for a more violent flruggle. — It is now the laft day of the old year, and, whichfoever way I look, my eye furveys only an unbounded ocean. When we may again fee land, it were difficult to conjecture, but my pen fhall prepare for you fome xotes of our proceedings, occafionally, when the fea will permit me to guide it; and I will fend them by any veffel we may chance to meet on the paflage, or by the earlieft packets after we reach the Welt Indies. On the firft morning of our being at fea, the weather was clear and mild, andthe - whole fleet, confifting of nea three hun- ia 163 dred veffels, of various magnitude and bur- den, was afiembled in compact form, occu-~ pying a certain circle of the ocean’s furface, and gliding {moothly on the paflage. It ‘formed one of the grandeft fpeétacles ever beheld. Never fhall I forget climbing up the fhrowds, as high as the main top, to en- joy it in all its perfe€tion. The fun fhone; . the fea was {mooth and undifturbed ; the air — ferene. All fails were fet, and the veflels being near to each other, the white canvafs feemed fpread, in crowded continuation, throughout the whole extent of the fleet. Looking down upon the multitude of thips, it created the idea of a whole nation moving upon the waters, It was a proud emblem of Britain’s glory. We appeared to command the whole empire of the main; and the profpeat, being calculated to excite flatter- ing hopes of victory and fuccefs, could not fail to be viewed, by every true Briton, with delight. But alas! how delufive were thefe aufpicious dawnings! We had advanced but little on our paflage, before a dire reverfe _fucceeded. The fun was now obfcured; a thick fog overfpread the ocean; and the 154 whole fleet was fhut from our fight. Dark clouds gathered around; the heavens fcowled in terrific blacknefs ; the fhadowed fea {welled with pregnant throes; and the fhips heaved in fickening motion. At length the heavy clouds burft into a roaring ftorm; the waters broke into huge and tremendous mountains; and the fhips rolled and pitched, in dreadful agitation, upon the ruptured furface. All feemed a mighty confli@. The boifterous gale tore, in hideous found; the fleeting clouds hurried before the wind; the rugged ~ ocean, in violent diforder, hurled mountain Over mountain, and iffued forth loud-roaring threats of deftru@ion. The hips, ftruggling againft the wild and furious waves, were, at one moment, tofled on a pinnacle to the hea- vens, and, the next, plunged into a eloomy deep, furrounded by dark and difordered mountains ; whence there feemed no poffible efcape. In an inftant they were again amidft | the clouds, and again as fuddenly funk in the dark valley of liquid hills: thus, alternately, | threatening us with the danger of being hurled from a fummit, or fwallowed up in a fright- — ful gulf of the unfathomable ocean. Nor — q 155 had we, barely, ‘to encounter the common dangers of the fea, but, from being amidft a — crowded fleet, were, every inftant, liable to _ the additional peril of running aboard fome - neighbouring fhip, and being dafhed in pieces, or driven, at once, to the bottom; and to this we were equally expofed by the dark- nefs of the night, and by a heavy fog. The terror of thefe critical moments is neceflarily augmented by the lively apprehenfions of thofe who are but little accuftomed to the fea: nor is this wonderful, for, where every motion, and every found is calculated to ex- cite alarm, he muft be more than a philo- fopher, he muft be a failor, who can regard even the lefs imminent perils with uncon- cern, | During a ftorm, the deep rollings of the fhip, her deeper lurches, the thundering con- cuffion of heavy feas againft her fides, the hollow dreary found of the wind howling in her fails and rigging, the hurry and clamor of the fhip’s company, the clattering of broken plates, difhes, and bafons, and the dif- mal creakings of the mafts, bulkheads, and 156 other parts of. the veflel, all confpire to create tumult and confufion, and to keep alive the moft trembling apprehenfions, At one moment the fhip is upfet, the next you feel her ftrike upon a rock: fuddenly fhe is fhattered to atoms ; or, foundering, finks to: the bottom ; and, while you are abforbed in thefe fenfations, a fea, or heavy fpray breaks over the deck, a threatening wave beats in the quarter gallery, or a rolling mountain dafhes the ftern windows into the cabin. The water now pouring upon you, from every Opening, your fears are confirmed by the confufion of the moment, and you feel that the veflel is pofitively finking. It has been my lot to experience, precifely, thefe fenfations. Atone time I have hurried upon deck, in the intention of throwing myfelf into the fea, there to cling to a part of the wreck, in the hope of outliving the ftorm: At another I have fat in filence,upon my birth, © with the water creeping up to my knees, and, hopelefs of being faved, have refolved to fub- mit to my fate, and feek the deep, without ufelefs bewailings. Quickly, the accident has been repaired, and, in the moment of He | ¥57 defpair, I have been greeted with tidings of fafety. | Often, in the midft of threatening ap- _ pearances, and manifold difquietudes, you are vifited by the carpenter, with the ‘* dead- lights,” who, fixing them in the ftern win- dows, nails you up in darknefs, as in a coffin, and with as much Jang froid as men of his. calling {crew up the bodies of thofe who are adtually dead: at the fame time replying, with unfeeling indifference, to your anxi- ous and fearful inquiries regarding the ne- ceflity of that ftep being taken, that it. is “ only to keep the [pray from breaking the win-— dows!” But I am fatiguing you with a de- tail of what every one knows; what all have read; and moft, who have been at fea, have felt: let me, therefore, revert, from ftorms in general, to our prefent voyage, in which you will find, perhaps, more of novelty. What fhall I fay to you of our great armada—of our unfortunate, unhappy fleet! Ere this can reach you, you will have had ‘many, alas! too many melancholy proofs of 158 the difafters which have befallen it. Did ever the feas—did the heavens ever fight fo cruelly againft an expedition! were ever the elements fo decidedly hoftile to the great and flattering efforts of man! To convey any adequate idea of our fituation would require the beft energies of your own all-animating pen; but, as that pen is but the reprefentative of your imagination, call this in aid of an humbler quill, and you may have fome conception of the peril and the _horrors to which we have, already, been expo- fed, and which we may ftill have to‘encounter! After the violence of the firft gale, moft of our f{cattered fleet, owing to the great at- tention and exertions of Admiral Chriftian and his officers, was again aflembled, and we felicitated ourfelves in the hope of proceeding to our place of deftination without further in- terruption : but the turbulent mountains of a difordered fea were, fcarcely, reduced toa more tranquil furface, before the ftorm was renewed with additional violence. Quickly we were more {cattered than before. Many of the fhips, unable to refift this fecond fhock, were, =) aoa 159 now, much injured, and obliged to put back into port.. Some, we fuppofe, again joined the admiral, and others wholly loft the con- voy. We were among the latter, but when the weather cleared we fell in with a {mall divifion of the fleet, with which we failed in company, for feveral days. Further repeti- tions of the ftorm again feparated us, and we were tofled about, feeing no more than three, fometimes but two, and often only a fingle — fhip, until, at length, we found ourfelves quite | alone upon the broad and mercilefs ocean. _ Previous to our final feparation we wit- | | nefled a {cene of a moft melancholy and dif- trefling nature. Knowing the exquifite fen- fibility of your feelings, on fuch occafions, I ought to {pare them the fad relation, but that:. it may exhibit to you one of the dangers of the dea, in a point of view under which you may not, perhaps,have contemplated it. Atthe moft furious and terrific moment of the ftorm, we fuffered the cruel affliCtion of feeing a neigh- _bouring fhip in the utmoft danger of being loft, without having the power of affording her any relief, She hoifted a flag, and fired guns 160 3 of diftrefs; but the gale was fo dreadful, and the fea running fo frightfully high, that it was, totally, impcflible to give her affiftance. We ftood towards her, and kept her anxioufly in view, in the hope of adminiftering aid, fhould the be fupported upon the furface until the weather became moderate, Unhap- pily the ftorm continued increafing rather than diminifhing in violence. We looked | fearfully on the thip, expeting every inftant to fee her go to the bottom. She repeated ficnals of diltrefs. We heard them, and faw them, but were unable to cbey them. It was a moft melancholy and awful crifis. We re- garded her in anxious forebodings, examining her, both with the eye and with the telefcope, again and again. Her mafts were ftanding ; her fails entire; and the rigging, apparently, perfect ; but this, which to landfmen would have feemed favourable, we di{covered to be the very reverfe ; for, hence it was that our beft failors formed the fatal conclufion that | her fituation was hopelefs, and that fhe mutt have fprung a leak! 7 : We watched the heavens, and the wa- 161 _ ters in painful folicitude, but faw no relaxa- tion of the ftorm. ‘Tremendous mountains at one moment concealed the wretched fhip from our view: at another we appeared to be enveloped, together, in the fame dark and difmal gulf. You will conceive our fenfa- tions upon feeling that, in one inftant more, | this deep pit of the ocean might be the grave of every foul on board. Signals, denoting. the extreme of danger, were repeated: the fea rolled in terrific diforder: we bent our “eyes in vain towards the veffel, leploring her threatened fate, and our own inability to prevent it! Night came on. We loft her in - darknefs, and beheld her no more! Heaven grant that fhe may be in fafety ! But we all fear fhe cannot have withftood the violence of the gale, which continued until morning,:and throughout the whole of the following day, with unremitted fury. Our anxiety was alfo much augmented, from hav- ing feen mafts, fpars, and other pieces of wreck, float by the fide of our fhip, when the ftorm abated. Until now I had regarded the failing in company with a fleet as a kind of VOL. 1, : M 162 oe call focial protection; but henceforth I hall feel no defire. to move in crowded fociety. on the - ocean. Being alone, we now fuffer the rifk of falling into the hands of the enemy ; but, com- pared to our late fulfering, even the vileft of French prifons lofes its horrors; for, to a man of any fenfibility, what can be fo truly afflia- | ing as to fee a number of his fellow-crea- — tures plunged in the deepeft diftrefs, and to feel himfelf withheld from tendering them relief! Our folitary fituation muft prevent a repetition of fuch a fcene: it alfo removes the peril of our being injured or deftroved, by other fhips, of which we had much dread, while we were amidft the fleet: for it is not only during a florm that there is danger of one fhip running foul of another: it is equally, and perhaps, even, more likely to- happen when. the wind abates,—more pars ticularly if this occurs, fuddenly, for then. the thip, not being fupported by the refift- ance of the gale, gives way to the heavy feas, and, from difobeying the helm, is liable to be driven aboard other veffels. Often, at this moment, as well as during the. ftorm, the fhips appear to have no weight, or depth of. ~ 163 purchafe in the water, but they tofs and roll about, at the mercy of the waves, like empty barrels floating upon the furface. : At the period of feparating from the fleet we knew not our place of deftination, and hence it became expedient to open the , fealed inftructions: from which we. -difco- vered that Carlifle Bay, in Barbadoes, was fixed as the general rendezvous of the fleet. Here, therefore, ail our attractions lie, and to this port we are endeavouring to fteer ;. but adverfe winds, and unprofperous gales per- petually oppofe our progrefs, It is now more than three weeks from the date of our de= arture, and we are yet beating about much ap ) bi ei) nearer to you than you imagine, having, hi- therto, advanced, on our paflage, only ewelve degrees of longitude, and three of latitude. But in whatever latitude or longitude—amidft whatever ftorms or dangers, I am always Yours. A 164 LETTER XVEL The new year mid and of good promife. ivlus and Nep- ‘tune enraged againft the youthful deputy of time. Storms and gales vepeated. Delight of affociating with congenial friends. A good fhip fearcely perifbable at open fea. Accidents and difafters of the Lord Sheffield. Contraft between land/men and feamen during a ftorm. Apathy of failors regarding the weather. Their peculiar degrees of comparifen. Cool replies of an old fleward. Odd tumbles, and poftures of the paffengers amufing to the failors. Dinner feene during a gale. Superftition and prejudices of failors. Whiftlng on board foip. Mother Cary’s chicken. Blowing for a wind. Marks of the Lord Sheffield having paffed the Azores. At fea, Jani 24. On concluding ‘my former letter, I had pleafed myfelf with the expe@ation of not com- municating another fentence of woe: indeed Thad hoped not to refume my pen upon the gins ses — face of the reftlefs Atlantic; and ‘that, long © ere this, I might have addrefled you from the ‘ifland of Barbadoes ; but, unhappily, nearly four more tedious weeks have been confumed, in flruggling againft the united violence of mercilefs winds, anda relentlefs ocean. New- 165 year,attended by gentle and fair-robed zephyrs, prefented himfelf in {miles. His countenance was benign—his every look befpake mildnefs and tranquillity. We did funeral honors to his tempeftuous father, without the affeCcta- tion of grief; and greeted each other on efcaping from his turbulent government, to a milder reign. We now failed pleafantly on our paflage. The breeze was fair—the fea fmooth and tranquil—the fun fhone with genial warmth—the hip advanced in fteady motion ; and our cares were diflipated in the hope that all our difafters were buried in the grave of boifterous O/d—year. But, alas! our cup was not yet full—the period of proba- tion was not thus to end. Molus and ftern Neptune, enraged at the mildnefs of the new deputy of hoary time, poured forth all their ire; and, tearing away the delufive veil, openly, expofed our error, proclaiming, in loud ty- ranny, that the young fteward of the winged hours was not the milder fon, but the very twin-brother of the late tempeftuous agent. Our flattering profpec&t had not the duration. of a day ! Ere morning dawned, dark clouds obfcured the fun; the tumid ocean heaved nye: 166 - in threatening anguith, and, a thick ftorm’ gathering at the horizon, the winds and waves rufhed into confli€, and, in all the dreadful wrath of tempeft, pronounced themfelves the meflengers of angry Gods! From this moment gale has fucceeded to gale, and ftorm to ftorm, defeating all our happieft calculations ; ever: the beft eftablithed prognoftics have deceived us, clouds fepa- rating, a change of wind, heavy rain, and the like, are no longer any indication of an abating » _ ftorm. At one time, under the cleareft azure - fky, and the brighteft, faireft fun, the dry’ wind tears in keeneft violence, as if rufhing, from the parched heavens, to devour all the fluids of the ocean: at another, loaded with | moifture, it burfts into fudden gufts and fqualls, heaving the thip, as it were, ’out of the fea, and leaving her fufpended in air; and, as if the fates had refolved to torment us, whenever the wind, and the heavy waves have a little fubfided, and we have looked — for fteady: failing on our paflage, a breeze has {prung up, from the: moft unfavorable point of the heavens, which, though mode- wioueaecilia 167 rate, for a moment, has quickly increafed, again, to a ftorm. Seven long weeks, now, have paffed, and with difficulty can it be faid that we have had an interval of one diurnal round, free from the perils of raging winds, _ or of the huge and fhattered mountains there- by engendered! Did I not feel that I am fteering from my friends, the cruel perplexities of this torment= | ing voyage would lead me intoa vow—perhaps fomewhat rafh—never again to intruft my. body to fo fickle and mercilefs a guardian as the fea. But not all her frowns or threats—not all the perils of which fhe is miftrefs, nor any thing fhort of death, can deter me from again hazarding my perfon, in order to return amidft thofe love. Novelty has many charms, It is pleafing to regard fociety under all its forms, and to contemplate the human {pecies In every country and every clime; but even in this, the great enjoyment centers in ‘the endearing hope of returning, fome day, to be ftationary amongft our friends; for to aflociate with thofe of fimilar minds, whofe difpofitions —whofe interefls and purfuits are congenial M 4 168 with our own, is the greateft gift of fociety | —the higheft boon of civilized life : beyond this, the world has nothing to offer. You, who know me, are well aware that my mind delights not to dwell onthe dark - furface of events. The feverity of the trial is perhaps atan end. Undaunted, I yet look forward to the happy termination of our paf- faze; and, even, in our prefent fuffering, fee, much of eventual good, for it will arm me againft a multitude of future alarms ; already, indeed, am I become fo courageous a failor as to regard the recurring gales with pa- tient firmneds ; and to look with tranquil eye at the immenfe mountains which ftrike the fhip, or the dafhing waves which out-top her mafts: indeed I can almoft fancy that a good _fhip is imperifhable at open fea; and could you know what ours has borne, you would be inclined to countenance the opinion. She has amply proved herfelf to be what the failors term a good fea boat ; and, from what I have faid of our paflage, you will feel the force of the technical expreffion that /be can live in all weathers. The fhocks and beatings the 169 has withftood, are almoft incredible. Often have I felt aftonithed that the huge feas and saking winds have not torn every plank afunder, and fhivered her to atoms. Her top- mafts, yards, and different parts of the rigging | have been carried away—her fails fplit—the quarter boards ftove in: things have been wafhed overboard from the deck—feas have broken over her—fprays dafhed tn the cabin windows—and various other accidents and difafters have befallen her: yet all have been repaired, and fhe till rides triumphant ! Often our party meet with drooping countenances, and fit down in gloomy filence, not recovering their {pirits throughout the day! At other times they grow reftlefs and irritable, and cannot remain a quarter of an hour in the fame place. During the feverity of the ftorm I have often remarked how differ- ently the fcene has affected the minds of thofe accuftomed, and thofe who are unaccuftomed tothe fea, he failor, patiently obferves the gale, lowers the yards and topmalts, furls or reefs his fails, makes all, {nug, and thanks the tempeft for a holiday :—heedlefs of the 13): ee ~ perils which furround him, he extends him- felf in his hammock, or reclines his head on a, plank or a locker, and, courting the tranquil embraces of Morpheus, regards the howlings of the florm as his peaceful lullaby. The landfman, on the contrary, 1s reftlefs and impatient—liftens in terror to the wind—and fhrinks in agitation at every found : the dan- gers that are, he magnifies,and his mind is tortured in the creation of others, which, do not exift. Each moment, to him, breeds_ new alarm. He afks a thoufand queftions, dictated by athouland fears. He goes upon deck—looks round with affrighted eyes—his feet are unable to fupport his trembling body _-—he clings to the companion door-way; and, thence, ventures to fteal a look at the ocean and its waves. His head grows giddy—naufea feizes him, and he again defcends to the cabin in extreme anxiety. He fixes himfelf in the leeward corner —places his elbows on hisknees ‘—his head on his hands, and, concealing his eyes, bewails his wretched fate! Suddenly he again feeks the deck—-multiplies all the perils of the moment—ftorms the captain and failors ( with new queftions, all expreflive of his | 17t. terror—faflens again to the companion door- way—gazes at the mafts and {ails—obferves the yards dip into the ocean—feels the yield- ings of the fhip—imagines fhe is uplet— fancies the mafis are falling overboard, and, in each rolling wave, beholds a devouring fea, DefiruGion occupies his mind ! He returns below—impatiently feats himfelf—feeks relief ina book—is unable to read—throwsaway the volume—again takes it up, and again throws it down: naufea returns, and he is feized with dizzinefs and reaching. His bodily feelings, now, augment the anguith and difquietude of his mind, and, at length, as a remedy for both, he proftrates himfelf in his birth ; but is fill. wretched and comfortlefs——all reft is denied ~him—ficknefs and anxiety remain—and he lies rolling, in fear and anguifh, to wear out. . the fury of the ftorm ! Strong as this contraft may appear, I have often feen it, fully, exemplified. The paf- fengers in the Lord Sheffield, being of the hof pital flaff, are moftly freth-water failors, and a large majority of them can bear ample tefti- mony to thefe.remarks. It has happened E72 that I have, before, had occafion to make many voyages by fea, but my ftomach affures me that Ican never become a failor: yet, from this long trial, in bad weather, I find that lam growing courageous, for [now can witnels the feeming apathy of older failors without furprize; and can even liften to the returning gale, rather - with regret for the delay it occafions, than. with any apprehenfion, regarding the dangers to which we are expofed. When, from the tofling of the fhip, we are unable to walk, or even to remain upon our legs, we feek a quiet corner of the cabin—feat ourfelves—take up a book—and, in patient reading, hope for better weather. Occafionally we venture, in giddy and {tumbling fiep, as high as the companion door-way, and, looking round, amidft all the rage of the ftorm, prophefy gentle breezes and {mooth feas. In thefe vifits we often feel wonder and amazement at obferving the car- penter and his mates working, quietly, in-the tops; and the failors hanging about the yards and rigging, in feeming unconcern— toffed-by each rolling fea from fide to fide, far — beyond the limits of the fhip, and, not un-— frequently, while feated at the end of the yard MiP dipped and drenched in the foaming billows of the ocean! The indifference of fea-faring ‘men to the dangers around them is exem- plified in every part of their condud, and, even, in their common expreffions. Often when we have felt the moft vivid appre~ henfions from the fiercenefs of the ftorm, and the huge roughnels of the ocean, and have, tremblingly, fought relief, by an appeal to the captain or mate, we have met only a look of unconcern, or, at molt, the laconic reply..% zz blows frefo.”’? From their quaint and tech- nical terms it is dificult for any one, unac- cuftomed to the fea, to know precifely what they meanto convey. ‘Their degrees of com- parifon are peculiar to themfelves, and, at firft, not eafy to be comprehended: taking the term freth as the pofitive, they fay it blows fre/b—it blows frong—it blows bard: and again, to de- note the fevereft poflible gale, they affume hard as the pofitive—add an oath to form the com- parative, and augment that oath to conftitute the fuperlative: thus, it blows 4ard; it blows d: | bard by Previous to this extremity we are. commonly | hard; it blows d 2 furnifhed with an omen, by the captain com- ey DE oe args aS ing down, below, to dniat his long coat for a fhort round jacket, and from this we al- _ ways prognofticate unfavorably, it being a precaution which denotes bufy, and Peeps: perilous employment. Our fteward is a very old failor, tough as the ropes of the fhip, and callous to every alarm; and, being the perfon more immedi- - ately about us, it moft frequently falls to his - Tot’ to be teazed, with queftions regarding the weather, the wind, and the fea; and the fieady apathy of his feelings, together with his exceflive fang froid and unconcern, have been often fubjeGs of remark—-fometimes, indeed, of vexation to us; for his utter infemfibility to the circumftances, which called forth our cares and alarms, have, occafionally, provoked us. During one of our perilous ftorms, the wind having fhifted to a point fomewhat lefs un- favorable, although ftill blowing a terrific’ gale, the ufual queftion was afked—Well, fteward ! how is the weather? “ Squally, [qually, * gentlemen — the wind's coming about—be “© fine weather foon.” - According to the feel- ings of this old weather-beaten tar, the fevereit i E75 ‘tempefts that we had fuffered, had been only {qualls, for, in the midft of the moft tremen- _ dous gales, his reply had alsenys been “Sguadly, 4 little foually, gentlemen, ——“ Are we making any way, fteward?” “Ob yes, fine wind, quite _ free, going large, make jix or feven knots.” “But furely we have too much of. this good wind, ‘tieiranth Ph". Ob-n0 _jine wind as can blow, gen- tlemen— but a little fgually—ratber Sqeally.” is The fhip’s company often reap much amufement fromthelittle accidents—the ridicu- lous tumbles—and the ftrange poftures which the paflengers are thrown into by the unfteady motion of the veffel: indeed we now feel fo little alarm during a gale, that we fometimes difregard its perils, and join in their {miles and jokes at the ludicrous occurrences which happen among ourfelves. Hogarth might have feafted upon them. In the confufion of motions, caufed by the heavy feas, if we at- ‘tempt to walk, we fetch way, and are toffed to the fartheft fide of the cabin, in all the odd _and uncommon figures that can be imagined: and, often, before we can regain our legs B55 the fhip yields to ancther wave, and we are tumbled, in sh moft iddicranes manner, to the oppolite fide, kicking, ftruggling, or crawling, amidft a confufion of moving chairs, ftools, boxes, and other furniture. Our dinner ceremony is often rendered a humorous fcene: at this hour the cabin being the general rendezvous of the party, we meet—crawl, trembling, towards the table —-and tie ourfelves in the chairs. A tray is 7 fet before us, with deep holes cut in it for the difhes, plates, and glaffes; the table and chairs are lafhed to the deck; yet one or other fre- quently gives way and upfets half the things in the cabin! Prefently enters the fteward with foup, followed by his little flave with potatoes ; and the fervants with fuch other covers as there may chance tobe. But {carcely are the things upon table, and the fervants fationed, cling- ing to the backs of our chairs, before a fudden lurch of the fhip tumbles all into diforder. Away go fteward, fervants, and little Mungo, to the lee corner of the cabin : the foup falutes the lap of one of us; another receives a leg of pork; a third is prefented with a piece of mutton or beef ; a couple of chickens or ducks ¥a 177 fly to another ; the pudding jumps nearly into the mouth of the-next ; and the potatoes are toffed in all directions, about the deck of the cabin, One faves his plate ; another {tops his knife and fork; fome cling to the table, think- ing only of faving their perfons; one fecures the bottle ; another, half fallen, holds up his glafs in one hand, and fixes himfelf faft to his chair with the other. Chaos is renewed! every thing isin motion—every thing in dif: order and confufion. At the next roll of the fhip the fervants, ftaring with amazement, again fetch way, and, with extended arms, are tofled to the oppofite fide of the cabin, where they cling faft, and remain fixed as fta- tues, afraid again to move: and, although we are lafhed in the chairs, ourfelves, it is with difficulty. we can maintain our feats. “Plates, difhes, knives, forks, and glafles clatter together in all the difcord of the moment: _ the fteward and his boy, crawling upon their hands and knees after the dancing pota- toes, the flying fowls, or walking joints, are rolled over and over at our feet ; and all is dif- ‘order and confufion. The fhip now becomes fteady for a moment; the {cattered parts of. VOL. I. N 198 the dinner are collected ; and thofe who have efcaped ficknefs, again attempt to eat. Some, forefecing all thefe accidents, fix themfelves in acorner upon the cabin-deck, and take the ' plate between their knees, fancying themfelves in fecurity: but, quickly, they are tumbled; in ridiculous poftures, to the other fide of the cabin, {prawling, with outftretched limbs, like of frightened crabs. Some, having no calls of appetite, join not in the feaft, but lie fwing- - ing up and down in their cots or hammocks ; others remain rolling from fide to fide in their births. Some cry out with fore bruifes ; fome from being wetted with the fprays: one calls for help; another relieves his ftomach | from ficknefs ; while others, lamenting only their: dinner, loudly bewail the foup, the | meat, and the pudding. Some abufe the | helmfman ; others the fhip; and others the j fea; while all join in a chorus of i impreca~ tions upon the wind. | It has been, commonly, obferved ~ that : failors have many prejudices and fuperfti- — tions. They often predi& a gale, from cir- _ cumftances which feem to bear no king. of j ? nro connexion in the chain of caufe and effe&t. The prejudice againft whiftling, on board fhip, appears to be univerfal ; nor do I remem- ber ever to have heard a failor whiftle in any | fhip ; beyond the common wee-cw, whee-ew, when he wants a breeze ; and paflengers are | even called upon to pay a forfeit fhould they, however inadvertently, be heard to whiftle. be The fuperftition refpecting the flight of a bird, which they call mother Carey’s chicken, is peculiarly ftrong. This is a black {mall — bird with long wings, which flies fwiftly and very near the water. It only appears, they fay, in ftormy weather, and however temperate ‘when the chicken is feen, they always predia, from its prefence, an approaching gale. The latter part of the obfervation we have but too often feen verified, for the prefence of mother Carey’s chicken, has, too frequently, been -fucceeded by a violent ftorm: but in how far the fact of this bird appearing, only, in fuch weather may be corredt, we have had little op- .- portunity of judging. " | With pleafure I feel myfelf able to inform you that we have fome indications of having N 2 180 paffed the Azores. The temperature of the atmofphere is become very genial to our feelings, and, amidft all our toflings and buf-. - fetings, we feem to have brought all-infpir- ing May clofe upon the heels of frigid Chrift- mas. ' A confiderable quantity of fea-weed appears floating upon the water, and this, the failors fay, is never feen to the north of the Weftern Iles, it being fuppofed to proceed from the gulf of Mexico, and not to be carried beyond thefe iflands. We are {fteering more to the fouth than our dire& courfe; but we are glad to make /outhing at the expence of a little qwe/fzmg, in the hope of beating out of the latitude of the tormenting gales, which have, almoft inceflantly, befet us, from the mo- ment of our departure from England: but I forget that I am tiring you with uninterefting details, and that you may think my letter is ‘ growing as tedious as the voyage. ! Adieu. / en Sie eae 181 LETTER, Vi. Lord Sheffield arvives at Barbadoes. Setting in of the trade - wind. Striking change in the failing and working of the Seip. - Lord Sheffield falls in with No. 4. tranfport, with a band of mujfic on board—Jpeaks a Spanifb veffel—alfo ‘the Britannia tranfport. Advantages of being on board a Weft India foip. Author adopts a preparatory regimen to guard him againft the effects of ciimate. Exclamation of one of the author’s comrades, on being firft attacked with “ pr ickly heat.” Diftant land vifible to failors long before it is to others. Firft appearance of Barbadoes. . Lord Sheffield, happily, prevented by the land breeze, from going into the harbour at night. Scenery on entering Carlifle Bay. Carlifle Bay, Feb. 19s Riiics with me and give thanks! After all our perils and dangers we are, again, fafe at anchor, with terra firma in view! How delightful an element—how cheering—how animating is the folid earth! Even its grofler part is now endeared to us, and we hail the heavy foil in cordial fympathy, almoft re- joicing that our very bodies: belong to dull clay! During nine long weeks had we been wandering, amidft a multitude of perils, upon the fickle waters, without once obtaining even m3 182 the moft diftant view of land: but of this enough! Let me not recall, to your mind, fcenes that we are endeavouring to forget. Throughout the laft fortnight the horrors of boifterous old Ocean have been affuaged, and _ for two or three days, after writing my laft notes, we were nearly becalmed. ‘The foam- ing Atlantic became fmooth and tranquil as . the fifh-pond of a pleafure ground; and, while refting in the moft genial temperature, we had, only, to lament the total abfence of - that wind, which had long been fo frightfully — abundant. ‘This placid interval was occupied in making preparations for fair failing ; and the captain flattered us with the hope of hav- ing pafled the ftormy latitudes. The top- gallant mafls were fet—the royals and fteer- ing fails made ready—fithing lines were thrown into the ftill fea—and an awning prepared for the quarter-deck; all of which were indications of fteady breezes, warm re-~ > eions, and pleafant failing. Senfible that you will feel your fthare of complacency upon the ~ occafion, I muft not negle& to note the event of a moft joyous day—a day which will be held in gladnefs by our party, fo long as re- 183 turning years fhall continue to place before us the 25th of January. We were in lati- tude 27° 49, the thermometer at 69°. The morning was mild; the fea ftill and {mooth, as a lake: all nature feemed huthed in filence, and no wind could be felt. We rofe early, and enjoyed a fteady walk on the, now, quiet deck. The fun, protruding from the bofom of a tranquil ocean, foftly ftole above the horizon, and, fwelling into globular form,, mildly, affumed refulgent brightnefs, and {pread his genial rays around. From excefs of motion we had now lapfed into perfec reft. We contemplated the change with ad- miration and delight: yet wifhed enough of ‘wind to carry us on our voyage. The ti- moneer left the helm; and the fhip remained immoveable upon the water. Cafting our eyes over the filver furface of the fea, to be+ hold the beauteous rifing of the fun, we of fered afpirations that fierce Eurus, in the pla-. cid humour of milder Zephyr, might follow in his train. Two ftrange veffels were ob- .ferved to be in fight—a brig and a f{chooner. | The former was dire@ly in our wake, and~ viewing this, amidft the univerfal ftillnefs N 4 184. that prevailed, we obferved, with furprife, that fhe was moving, towards us, with full fails. At this moment the fky darkened ; the thermometer fell to 64; a gentle rippling {pread, lightly, over the ftill furface of the water; and, almoft imperceptibly, brought us ----- a favorable breeze! It was from the north-eafi; and fo foft and fteady that {carcely did we feel the veflel in motion, ere we. were advancing at the rate of. five knots an hour! What we had fo long and anxioully fought, was now arrived, and we moft cor- dially hailed - ----- the trade wind! The failors announced it in loud greetings: need — I fay that we partook in their livelieft joy! You will readily conceive, without expeGing me to defcribe, cur feelings upon the occafion. Never was a happier moment! All fenfe of . our long fufferings vanifhed, and we were in 7 perfect raptures on this glad event. Indeed we had much caufe to think ourfelves for- tunate on being faluted by the favoring trades in their very earlieft latitude. This: was a moft grateful period of our paflage, and, together with the weather we have fince experienced, has, in fome degree, compen- 185 fated former evils. ‘The temperature orew cooler than it had been during the few days ofcalm. The breéze frefhened, and all hands were bulily occupied in preparing and fetting all. poffible fail; to obtain the full benefit of this great and conftant trader’s friend, Quickly new canvafs {tretched from every point of the mafts and yards, and the fhip, winged with five additional fails, widely fpread her ex- - panded pinions to embrace the breeze. What _achange ! tranfported, at once, from the perils _. of fevere tempeft, to the fineft, f{moothef failing !. During feven tedious weeks we had not known the wind from the point we wifhed ; and we had been perpetually befet _ with ail the dangers of raging ftorm: Now, the breeze was all we could defire! Sicknefs, and other uneafy feelings were difperfed; we exercifed, freely, upon the deck ; and failed on our paflage, almoft wane perceiving the, veficl move ! So rapid, indeed, was our pro- grefs, that the fhip feemed to feel no refift. ance, but to fly, uninterrupted, through the water !. ae The crowded fails now remained night 186 a = and day. No change: no new arrangement — occafional bracing, only, was required ! We ftood before the wind, and in all the de- licht of fair weather, and fine failing, made from 160 to 200 knots within the failor’s day-—from noon -to noon. In fuch feas, and with fuch a wind, the fhip’s company might have flept; leaving the helmfman only, to fteer the veilel’s courfe. ‘The delay, the dif- ficulties and dangers we had met with, ferved but to augment the value of the ever-con- ftant trades, and to render them even more enchanting than: we had hoped. The fteadi- nefs of this friendly breeze, and its certainty of duration, likewife enhanced its charms. So truly delightful did we find it, and fo pleafant were the wide ocean, and the .wea- ther, that, had not former ficknefs, with the torment of repeated gales, already confirmed » my abhorrence of the fea, I know not but I might have been led into the belief that dif- comfort and a failor’s life were not ftridily fynonimous ales | ; It were wrong to adulterate thefe happy - tidings—or to chequer this letter with any 4. = circumftance not perfe&ily in unifon with the joy we felt on meeting our excellent friends -~--- the trades. 1, therefore, referve fome de- tached occurrences of the voyage for my next letter, in order not to interrupt the harmony of this; which I with’ to conclude, as it be- gan, with happily terminating the voyage. In the courfe of our paflage, we fell in, occafionally, with ftragglers of our, unfortu- nate drmada, and remained in company with them, until we were again feparated by a ftorm) a thick fog, or the night. A few days before we.reached Carlifle-bay, we were joined by No. 4. tranfport, with troops, and a band of mufic‘on board. This was a happy ren- contre, and afforded us a moft pleafing no- velty. The day had been fine; the evening was mild and clear; and gentle Cynthia, with her filver beams, feemed to aid the general ftillnefs that prevailed. Every thing con{pired in favor of the mufic, and the notes of the _various infiruments, coming to us acrofs the water, were fo {weetly foft and melodious as to convey the idea of celeitial harmony. We liftened in raptures, and, feeling quite en- 188 chanted with her delightful founds, we hoped - to continue in the fociety of our new com~ panion, during the remainder of the voyage : but the night concealed us from each other, _ and, when Aurora again opened the gates of the eaft, we perceived, with ftrong regret, that we had, already, to lament our harmonic aflociate. | When any ftrange veflel appeared in _ fight, it, commonly, excited fome apprehen- | fion, from our being alone, and badly armed ; but, fortunately, the wide ocean feemed to be the path, only, of friends. In latitude 37 we defcried a foreign fail, but we quickly ‘difco- vered that fhe was not of warlike afped, and, therefore, were defirous of {peaking her, in the hope of afcertaining our longitude. On approaching her, for this purpofe, we hoifted our enfign as a fignal ; to which fhe replied by a white flag, with a red ftripe, 1 im- plying that fhe belonged to Spain. We were pleafed to find her an ally ; and, employing a Portuguefe, whom we chanced to have on board, to hail her, we difcovered that fhe was from the Havannah, bound to Malaga; but : 189 this was all the information we could obtain, for, unluckily, our Portuguefe failor was not able to render his queftions, concerning the longitude, intelligible to the Spaniards. On the morning of the day before we made the land, we fpake the Britannia tranf= — port, and learned that, during the preceding night, fhe had been boarded by a floop of war—one of the Barbadoes cruizers, and had received information that fhe was within fixty leagues of the ifland. This intelligence was. peculiarly opportune, as we were in no cer- tainty regarding our longitude, and muft have proceeded in fear, during the night, or have created further delay by fhortening fail. : o ~ It was a great advantage tous being on board a Weft India trader, for the fhips built for this fervice, being intended for a hot cli- _thate, are conftructed with much attention to the comfort and accommodation of pafflen- gers, and have all the conveniences of ports, {euttle-holes, window-blinds, awnings, Sc. from the want of which, many of the tranf- ports were, diftreflingly, clofe and oppreilive. PGS ‘ As foon as we had entered the trades, our ports and fcuttles were beat open, and we had a free circulation of, air, through the ca- | bin, night and day. The windows were likewife opened; and, as we failed before the wind, the Venetian blinds admitted the breeze, » while they excluded the rays of the fun. ‘From thefe means\we were kept. pleafantly cool, below; and, when upon deck, we were © protected by a canvals awning, under which | we had a fhaded walk, ventilated by a free current of air. Having feveral bathing tubs, on board, we had, likewiie, the comfort—the luxury I might fay, of plunging into’ fea- water every morning; and, in order not to meet the torrefaGtion of thefe bugning re- gions, with all the rigid fibre, and ftrong - vafcular aétion of Europe, I have adopted the plan of ufing a very abftemious diet, and have fubmitted to a fhort preparatory courfe of medicine. (My comrades {mile at the pre- caution, but, although doctors may difagree, . I fhall hope, on fome future day, to exhibit, to you, the good effects of this early difci- pline. Wine, ’tis faid by many, will counter= adi the heat of the climate, Let thofe take 191 it who think fo—my faculties have not yet ‘enabled me to comprehend the ingenious doctrine which would employ fire to extin- euith heat—nor has my fagacity taught me how to quench a flame by the addition of oil, or zther ! Ll \ Many days previous to our arrival in Carlifle bay, the increafe of temperature had brought out upon our {kins that troublefome eruption called prickly Leat. Our bodies were covered with it, and the irritation and itch- ing it occafioned were intolerable. Our com- -panion, Dr. Cleghorn, being an early fufferer from it, demanded of thofe who had been accuftomed to the Weft Indies, how long his fkin was to. be thus tormented? So long, good doétor, as you remain in health, was the reply! Upon which, with additional rub- bing and fcratching, the doctor jocofely, al- though fomewhat impatiently exclaimed, in the accent of his country, ‘‘ Faith captain, and would you carry us into never-ceafing ; torment? "Bout fhip and tack for England immediately.” IQ2 On the morning of the froth inftant the boatfwain defcried. the higheft points of — Barbadoes, when land! land! was inftantly echoed throughout the fhip, to the great joy of all on board; and to the boatf{wain’s pro-. fit, who, being the firft that founded the glad tidings, became entitled to the cuftom- ary fee of a bottle of rum, or brandy. It required the eye of a failor to diftinguith the all-delighting terra firma, amidft the clouds : the paflengers looked, and looked in vain! a nearer approach of yet fome leagues, was ne- ceffary, to render it vilible to the eye of a land{man, and when we, at length, difcerned it, the earth appeared, only, as the more fixed of the clouds—~forming a dark ftreak a little above the horizon. This ftreak grew, gra-. dually, more and more difting, till, breaking — as we advanced, it became unequal, and af- fumed the form of mountains; and, at length, the appearance of land. Soon we difcovered ‘it to be the northern point of the ifland of. Barbadoes; but Carlifle-bay is to the fouth: we had, therefore, to coaft round nearly half the extent of the ifland, before we could - 3 reach the harbour. This delay afforded us a pood opportunity of viewing the ifland. We {tood near in, and could obferve, diftinély, the objects on fhore. I took my feat upon deck, and with an anxious eye, aided by the telefcope, minutely, examined every thing we pafled. The mind, ever ative, generally forms to itfelf fome image of the things we hear {poken of, before any opportunity oc- curs of feeing them. Often the picture is: very incorrect and extravagant; but, upon the prefent occafion, I was pleafed to find that I had formed to mylelf a tolerably accurate copy of the Welt Indies, from the defcrip- tions | had heard and read. In particular the appearance of the fields, and of the flaves, labouring with the whip at their backs, had — been painted, very correctly, in my imagina- tion; for, I now faw them, in reality, what my mind had long reprefented them. Our coafting view of the ifland was not the moft favorable; for a nakednefs, which Barbadoes does not poffefs, appeared to pre- ‘vail: nor did the general verdure feem to equal our expectation: houfes, huts, wind- Vu. I. ra) 1QO4 mills, and fugar-works, although plentifully . diftributed, in patches, about the ifland, did not prefent the fcenery, nor the air of rich- nefs and comfort we had expected. There feemed to be a want of inclofures, and a deficiency of trees and hedges. The build- ings looked bare and. expofed, and there was a want of that protecting fhade, for the cattle, which our feelings had deemed requifite in fuch acclimate. ‘The houfes, devoid of orna- ment, and without chimnies, conveyed the idea of barns: nor could we aflociate them in the picture of wealth and abundance which had been called up in\our minds. We la- mented that the numerous windmills, houfes, and other buildings we faw, were not more protected by the deep fhading foliage of tro- pical vegetation. Had a variety of trees been inter{perfed, or had the branching filk-cot- ton, or ftately mountain-cabbage, contributed their fhelter, the appearance of comfort had been preferved, and the picturefque effect rendered more ftriking. The land is con- fiderably varied, being hilly and unequal ; and from the general view, in failing along the coaft, it appears to rife into two or three 195 - ditting tables, which elevate themfelves ab- ruptly, one above another. We made the entrance of the harbour, juft as the fun was finking into his watery bed, for the night; and it was in debate whe-. ther we could fetch in before it grew dark, when it was fuddenly decided againft us, by the wind fhifting and coming round direély a-head, ‘This we learned was the land breeze. In thefe regions the trade-wind blows from the fea, during the day; but this commonly fubfides, as the fun goes down, and a contrary breeze fets in, from the land, which continues to blow throughout the night. Being prevented from coming to anchor, we ftood off and on, at the harbour’s mouth, until morning, when we difcovered that we had no caufe of regret in this additional de- lay ; for all the beauties of Carlifle-bay were, now, exhibited to us—not only under. the fill light of the morning, but brightened by the golden rays of a rifing fun. Had we gone in at night, we muft have loft a moft , enchanting profpea&t; and the lofs had been O 2 ro6 irremediable, for, after the eye had been ac- cultomed to the rich foliage, the houfes, the towns, the fields, and all the peculiarity of tropical fcenery, the impreffion we now felt could never have been excited. The mind was, at this moment, in a ftate to enjoy them: the novelty was great, and every object ftrik- ing. We had been long at fea, and the eye fought, eagerly, the fhore. Land was anxioufly defired: the view of it opened to ‘us very favorably ; and, from all the various circumftances confpiring to its improvement, the profpect was rendered more delightful than it could have been at any other period. The harbour is a fine open bay, the whole of which, with its varied fhores, were | before the eye: many fhips were riding at anchor, and a multitude of boats and {mall | veflels were failing and rowing to and fro. The two points of land, at the entrance, ferve | as a defence; while they augment the beauty of the harbour. On one of them appears a formidable battery, together with an exten- five barrack for troops: on the other is a fine grove of mountain cabbage, and coco nut 197 trees. Through the fhipping at the bottom of the bay, are feen numbers of neat cot- “tages; among which are interfperfed va- rious tropical trees, affording the protecting fhelter of their umbrageous fummits, On the fouth-weft fhore ftands Bridge-town, the capital of the ifland; and on the north-eaft, upon high ground, is a new and handfome quadrangle of ftone barracks, with the mili- tary hofpital and other buildings of St. Anne’s Hill. Nor is the profpec confined to thefe limits. It extends ftill wider, and in addition to the water, the fhipping, and the numerous other objects, immediately before the eye, the back ground, beyond the bay, and above the town, forms a rich and extenfive land- fcape. The land is feen above the houfes, the trees, and the topmatts of the fhips, rifing to a great diftance, clothed in all the richnefs of its tropical apparel. WVerdant fields of fugar, of coffee, and of cotton; fine groves, dark with luxuriant foliage ; country villas; clufters of negro huts, windmills, and fugar- : works, all prefent themfelves to diverfify and enliven the picture. Such was the fcene that appeared before us as we failed into 03 198 ™ Carlifle-bay. You, whofe idol is nature, in all her forms, will feel a friendfhip for the evening land-breeze which fo happily length- ened a voyage, before too long. Adieu. - e990 LETTER XIX. Ceremsny of cleaning and painting Weft India Joips. Feelings of failors refpetting the failing of their veffels. Tobacco an -univerfal cordial among failors. Specimen of economy in a young tar. Negro economy. Baptifmal ceremony on crof- fing the tropic. Author and his comrades werk at the capa flan. 4n accident happens to Dr. Cleghorn. Harpoons and other inflruments prepared for firiking fifo. Peculiar habit of porpoifes. Sharks, dolphins, and flying jifh ufed as food. Stupidity of the Shark, Splendid appearance of a fhoal of dolphins. Remarks upon the firuciure, and motion of the wings of the flying fifh. Small flying fifh an indication of approaching the land. Temperature of the water of the Atlantic. Lights produced by the foip at night. Small rainbows upon the furface of the ocean. Appearance of the fun and moon at fea, within the tropics. Weft India Sky. Evening clouds. gris Barbadoes, Feb. P REVIOUS to our coming into harbour, from our late voyage, the fhip’s company ‘was, for feveral days, bufily occupied in clean- ing, painting, and adorning the veflel; and we learned that it is a general cuftom to drefs the Weft India {hips in a new jacket, during the fteady failing of running down the trades, in order that they may appear clean, 04 200 and in the beft condition, while remaining in the harbours of the-iflands: and that in this the failors have a degree of pride, which excites a general {pirit of emulation—every captain wifhing to render his veflel the obje@& of at- traction and admiration. In confequence of this cufiom the Weft India harbours become quite a drawing room of fine-drefled mer- chantmen. Here each fhip exhibits her beft apparel, and vying with the others, holds out her lures to catch the eye of every beholder. The decoration is univerfal, From head to.ftern, not a plank, a maft, a yard, nor {carcely a rope efcapes ; each receives a full- drefs coat of paint, or is made new with a black varnith of tar. The painting of the more prominent parts of our fhip being completed, the progrefs of cleaning, and new-drefling was extended to fuch minutiz as to become very highly ridiculous. A painting mania feemed to have feized the whole crew, and every one was up to his elbows in greafe, tar, and paint. The capftan—the quarter-boards -——the binocles—the hen-koops—every thing around us was bedaubed, The cannon—the hand-lpikes—the capftan bars—the barrels 201 —the buckets—the very handle of the pump —all were painted—all put into one unitorm of black and yellow. Not an iron ring, a dolt, nor a nail was negle€ted—not even th- cannon balls efcaped—and, that nothing ihenul’ be omitted, the inner furface of the water buckets, regardlefs of health, were drefled with their poifonous coating. Never was fy{tem more univerfally obferved; nor idle excefs ren- dered more confpicuous. Not aninch, nor an atom, but appeared in Lord Sheffield’s livery ; black and yellow prevailed from the higheft point of the mafis, down to the very water’s edge. Nothing can convey to you a ftronger idea of the fine fteady failing, in a trade wind, than to know that the outer part of the thip is painted at fea, by men hanging in ropes, at her fides, while fhe is proceeding with full fails, on her paflage. The fatlors have another, and yet ftronger pride, which refpects the failing of their vef- fel: like every man’s horfe,—every failor’s fhip is the beft in the world, — every captain commands the quickeft failing veffel of the fleet; and 4e would ceafe to merit the honor 202 of a jacket, who could be brought to acknow= ledge, however true it might be, that his fhip was a bad failor: for, however manifeft this fhall appear, an excufe is never wanting. She is in bad trirm—fhe is too. much aftern —too much ahead—is too deep—too light ——the breeze is not from her point—tfhe fails. beft upon a wind—before the wind—the makes beft way in a gale—ina light breeze: fo that be the weather, and the attendant circum- ftances whatever they may, here is a /ide-qwind for each of them; and a fon of the ocean is - always expert enough to appropriate them in. favor of his veffel, fo as to guard her, at — every point, again{t the. imputation of being — a dull failor. It happened that our fhip was found not to advance in proportion to the breeze ; it was, therefore, deemed expedient to give her a new main-top-gallant maft; and this ‘was put up, in the night time, with as much fecrecy as if the failure of the whole expe- dition had hung upon its difclofure. We, af- terwards, difcovered that it was done, in the dark, not to conceal it from the paifengers, only, but from the fhip’s company of a veffel, which happened, then, to be failing near us ; = 203 and with which the Lord Sheffield was, fe- cretly, vying in her progrels. Among other circumftances, perhaps as little worth noting, but which amufed an idle moment upon the paflage, was a re- markable inftance of cconomy, which we obferved in a young Scottifh failor. The tars have, univerfally, a fondnefs for tobacco: to deprive them of food—of drink—nay, even of their loved grog, is not {fo diftrefling to them, as to debar them of their cud. To thofe who are acquainted with the properties of this _ plant, and with the habits of the Turks refpect- ing opium, this will not feem wonderful ; for its effets being thofe of a {trong cordial, they, who frequently ufe it, will neceflarily feel a great degree of languor from being deprived of it. From the unufual length to which the paflage was extended, our failors’ ftock of to- bacco had become exhaufted before they reached Barbadoes. ‘They, confequently, fuf- _ fered depreffion of fpirits, reftleffnefs, languor, and all the ufual indications of debility. They felt, feverely, the abftraGtion of their accuf- tomed cordial—and would have fubmitted to 204 many facrifices to have obtained it. At this moment of diftrefs and want, the wary Sandy Cameron opened his ftore, and, in the general eagernefs to ‘procure it, retailed tobacco to his mefimates at an enormous profit. Some pawned their fhoes, fome their fhirts, fome their jackets: fome gave their food, fome their grog—every thing was devoted to pur- chafe this filthy herb. Sazdy became a per- fect marchand de tabac—and was, thereby, enabled to accumulate clothes and property to no trifling amount. Four ounces of to- bacco were given for a jacket valued at feven or eight fhillings—other articles of ufe or ap- parel were bartered at a fimilar rate ; but, from fome accident, it was, at length, difcovered that young Cameron’s ftore was, moftly, the produce of a very filthy piece of ceconomy ; Sandy having collected it, by picking up the old cuds of his meffmates, during the paflage —which he had dried and preferved for fu- ture ufe; fo that the failors were now paying extravagantly, for the privilege of again fuck- ing, what had already been between their teeth. This dirty occurrence happening on 205 bird led the captain to mention a habit, fometimes practifed among the negroes in the Weft Indies, which is not lefs diftin- -guithed for its filthinefs and ceconomy. The blacks, both men and women, are very fond of rum, and fometimes, when they can only procure a fingle dram, the wife, as a mark of tendernefs and attachment, {fatisfies- herfelf by warming her mouth with it, and, affec- tionately, employs that as a glafs for convey- ing the rum to her hufband; who receives it, from her, in due kindnefs, beak to beak, as pigeons feed their young; and thus, with ex- | traordinary ceconomy, the fingle dram is made to ferve both man and wife; and fometimes it is, even, faid to go through the mouths of the whole family. A day or two after we had entered into the latitude of the trade-wind, we had to crofs the tropic; which was an occafion of great mirth and feftivity. The ufual ceremonies were performed—the ufual honors paid to old Neptune, and all was holiday. The great deity of the ocean, accompanied by his queen- tib of the waters, afcended from the deep,’. 6 206 in order to welcome us to his tropical abolt, and to witnels the baptifm of fuch of his children who had not, already, done homage at his font. This is a ceremony which is, commonly, thought to be ludicrous: but, in’ the, way it is conducted by the rough tars, it becomes a very dirty and fevere procefs. It is extended to every perfon on board, who | has not, berore, been within the tropics, vary-_ ing only in its mode of application, and in its feverities. The old failors are careful to difcover, in the courfe of the paflage, which of their mefl- mates have not undergone the difciplineof this tropical baptifm ; and on this day, all who are marked for the ceremony, are led upon deck, one by one, blindfolded. In this ftate the young failor is made to feat himfelf upon a fmall narrow plank, laid acrefs a large tub of falt water, or upon the edge of the tub itfelf, and, in this perilous fituation, they adminifter to him a long and ridiculous oath; then “ offer him a glafs of gin, by way of cordial, which he is compelled to drink, and finds it to be only a glafs of falt water. They, then, ae 207 {mear his ‘face with a nafty compound of _greafe, tar, and ftinking oil, taking care in the operation, to force fome of it into his mouth. The next ftep is to fhave this off, and the razor employed, for this purpofe, is commonly a piece of an old iron hoop, beat — full of notches. The filth being in part {craped from his chin, with this rough inftru- ment, the baptifmal procefs is completed by the plank, upon which he is feated, being _ duddenly withdrawn, and the young initiated plunged head and ears into the tub of water ; where he is made to lie kicking and {prawl- ing for a confiderable time ; after which he is ’ permitted to rife from his briny birth ; when his eyes are unveiled—-he wathes his coun- tenance, and iffues forth a privileged fon of old Neptune—/ree to range in the tropical feas. If he contends, or offers any refiftance, he is treated with three or four dippings, in- ftead of one; he, therefore, finds it beft not be refractory, and {mothers his wrath in the fecret pleafure of witneffing a fimilar procefs impofed upon the reft of his mefimates. Every one, whether failor or land{man, is 208 called upon to undergo this chriftening ce- remony, as the tafk of initiation. | As paffengers we were honored with a. viftt from father Neptune and his fpoufe, to welcome us to their tropical dwelling, and to announce to us the propriety and neceffity of the baptifmal vow: but we compromifed the difcipline of dipping and fhaving, by of- fering the tribute of a few gallons of rum; — and petitioning the beauteous Amphitrite . to intercede in our behalf. Neverthelefs, we were taught that it would be prudent to re- main, quietly, in the cabin, during this briny chriftening of the failors. The fervants were led by curiofity to vifit the deck, hoping to witnefs the ceremony _ without becoming, themfelves, the objedts of it: but they were fpeedily prefented with a complete wafhing of fea-water, and obliged to beat a hafty retreat, in order to efcape the fhaving : one of them, who was a great cox- comb in his drefs, grew violently enraged, and felt highly- indignant that the failors _@ 209 fhould dare to wet and fpoil: his clothes ; and in his anger he ran down below to arm him- felf with a {word, then returning upon deck, {wore that he would run the firft man through the body, who fhould throw water upon him, ae again: but fcarcely had he faid the words, - and brandithed his fabre, before feveral buckets . Y of water were dafhed upon his head and fhoulders, by fome failors who had placed themfelves in the main-top. The-.poor man : ftormed violently, {wore, ftamped, and vowed _ vengeance. The failors, laughing at his im-_ potent rage, continued to pour down bucket -after bucket. He was unable to climb up the fhrouds; and they diverted themfelves at his wrath and diftrefs, until, at length, feeing - that they defied all his threats, he again re- turned to the cabin, loading them with impre- cations, and, loudly, vowing vengeance, un- _ mindful that his beft remedy was to change his clothes, wipe himfelf dry, and let his choler fubfide. Cuftom is abfolute, and, in the hands of fuch hardy minifters, it were folly to oppofe its defpotic government. VOL, I. P 210 After reaching the latitude of the trade wind we pafled very little of our time in the eabin ; nor, throughout the whole paflage, did | we negle& to take our exercife upon deck, wheneverthe weather would permit; oceafion- ally alfo in order to divert the fad indolence of our inactive life, we gave affiftance at the cap- ftan, or in working the pump, or pulling the ropes; but one of thefe moments of induftry had nearly coft Dr. Cleghorn his life. A large block, expofed to exceffive purchafe in getting up one of the malts, broke from its rope as we were heaving at the capfian bars, and, flying to.a great height with violent rapidity, -ftruck the doGor on the head in its fall. Happily he was not within the circle of its full force, or, beyond all doubt, he had been killed on the fpot. Moderate as it was, the blow being received from only the edge of the block, in its fall to the deck, it rendered him infenfible for fome time, and cut an alarming wound through the integuments quite to the bone. On récovering from the comatofe tate, which had followed the blow, he had no knowledge how the accident had happened; and when the OIL broken block was prefented to him he was ftruck with furprize at his efcape. The wound has fince healed kindly, and the doc- tor fuffers, from it, no other inconvenience than, like poor Patrick, wearing, in his fore- head, an honorable and warlike fear. During our fine tropical failing we were frequently amufed in obferving the immenfe fhoals of porpoifes, dolphins, and flying fith, which, from time to time, aflembled about the fhip. The frightful fhark and fpouting gram- pus alfo made us frequent vifits. | Harpoons and other inftruments, called gigs, or grains, were prepared for the purpofe of taking thefe inhabitants of the ocean. They are formidable weapons of iron, made with barbed points, and at the time of ufing them, a wooden handle, loaded with lead, is affixed to them, together with a long cord; — and they are ftruck into the animal while he 1s fwimming at the fide of the fhip. If they penetrate beyond the barb he is unable to free himfelf from the inftrument, and is turned LBiiye4 212 upon his back, by the weight of the lead in the handle, and confequently has no power toefcape. Often the iron points are bent dou- ble without entering the animal; and fome- times they are thrown out by his ftruggles, from not having penetrated deep enough, and leave him to efcape with his wound, This we faw happen to a large porpoife while he was {wimming amidft a fhoal of his fpecies fo numerous as to darken the fea; when, inftant- ly, every individual of them abandoned the fhip, not to protect or confole their wounded brother, but, according to the unfriendly habit of thefe hideous and rapacious animals, to purfue him as their prey: The flying fith, the fhark, and the dolphin, are all ufed, by the _ failors, as food. ‘The shark is a moft ftupid animal—unlike other fifhes he difregards be- _ | ing feen, and flies not from people who appear before him, nor is intimidated at things fal- ling near to him, or even upon him in the ‘water. Does this arife from a deficiency of nervous fenfibility, or from a confcioufnefs that he is armed againft the objets he com- monly meets ? By throwing out to him oce 213 cafio nally a piece of fat pork, he may be in- duced to continue, at the fide of the fhip,s while a rope, let down into the water, is paf- _ fed over his head, and drawn tight round his body in order to take him a'ive, and if it hep- pens to flip off, he is flupid enough to re- main until it is fixed a fecond time. We caught a very large one in this manner ; and alfo took a {maller one with the hook, which the failors confumed as delicate food. The fhoals of dolphins are often fo im- menfe as to convert the fea into a kind of rich and dazzling mine, in which the lively inter- changes of colour out-rival all the fplendour of brilliants and gold. The novelty of immenfe multitudes of fith darting from the fea and taking wing in the air, you will believe attracted our attention. To fpeak of fithes flying might feem to be a traveller’s tale; we were, therefore, led.to a minute inveftigation of the fa@. We watched them with a {ceptical eye, and, at many dif- ferent times, before we admitted even the evidence of our fenfes. It appeared poflible ie 214. ‘that their fhort fight might be the effeG of a fingle mufcular effort, f{upported by the expan- fion of long membranous fins ; and this opini- onbecame ftrengthened from obferving them, © occafionally, touch the water, as if to gain new force from its refiftance, and then rife again, and fiy as faras before. But, upon regarding them with fri attention, we obferved their wings employed, like thofe of birds, in flut- tering motion as they flew. We faw them change their courfe, from a diredt line ; we perceived them rife and fall in their flight, to furmount the waves they met, and re- marked that they often continued their pro- grefs to the diftance of two or three hundred yards, without touching the water: at length two or three of them flew on board the fhip, and, ftriking againft the mafts, fell dead upon the deck ; this afforded us an opportunity of {atisfying our doubts ; and after very minutely examining their external form, we further affured ourfelves, by carefully difleGing them ; and we have now no hefitation in faying that fifhes- - - - - do fly! The wings are very long,: arifing from behind the gills, they lie folded at the fides nearly the whole 215 length of the fith, being formed of feveral fine cartilages, and a thin tranfparent mem- brane not unlike the wing of a bat. At the infertion, near the gills, they are narrow, but become confiderably wider towards their extremities. When ufed in flying they are raifed from the fide, and expand- ed, by the cartilages feparating from each other, and ftretching out the membrane which covers them. They are not connected with the body by extenfive mufcular infertions ; but are united byaligamentous membrane. Two {mall mufcles pafs into each wing, terminating in ftrong ligaments. ‘Thefe ferve to give them the command of the wing, but are not calculated to fupport long and powerful ac- tion. The fith is about the fize of a herring. They are caught, in great numbers, near Bar- badoes, where they are pickled, and falted, and ufed as a very common food. The day before we made the land we met with fhoals of flying fith of much fmaller fize than thofe we had commonly feen—not jarger, indeed, than fprats. On rifing out of the water, in large bodies at atime, they caufed P 4 216 a found like the {plathing of rain, which being heard by the captain, he inftantly exclaimed - 3 “ Ha! bravo! land, land! here are the little fplafoers, we can’t be far from the land !’— This {mall race of fying fith, it feems, is never obierved at any great difance from the fhore, ner in the deeper parts of the Atlantic: where- fore their appearance is aflumed as a fure prognoftic of a {peedy approach to the land. We obferved upon the paflage, that after the great heat of the day, the water of the At- lantic was fomewhat warmer than the circum- ambient air. In latitude 14°, at 10° o'clock at night, the thermometer {tood at 72%, and © upon being put into a bucket of avéiysdovinn fea water it rofe to 73. Like all young failors we felt our atten- tion ftrongly attraéted by the phenomenon of © the lights produced in the fea, at night, from the thip beating her way through the water. We often witnefled them in a very ftriking degree, and were, trequently, led to the fore- part of the fhip to view them in their brighteft - fplendour; for, there, the fhip appeared to be 207. failing through liquid flames. On every fide the lights were vivid and beautiful, but at the - forecaftle we faw the pitchings and plunges of the veffel ftrike out wide flafhes, refem- bling fheets of fire. The great noife at the head of the fhip, likewife added to the effea, and it required very little help of the ima-— “gination to create a belief that we, actually, heard the fparks and crackling of more de- fiructive flames. At the ftern thefe lights ap- pear as if they poured from the veffel in bright ftreams of fire, extending to a confiderable diftance in her wake. We drew up buckets of water, occafion- ally, to the deck, and found that by agitating © it, either with the hand ora piece of wood, we could excite the fame luminous appearance: but, after difturbing it for a fhort time, this effet ceafed ; and no degree of agitation was fufficient to renew it in the fame water. You know the various theories and fpeculations which have been offered in explanation of this phenomenon, I need not, therefore, {well my letter by repeating them. | 218 The beautiful appearance of the iris reft- ing ina number of {mall circles upon the fur- face of the ocean, alfo frequently attrafted our notice. Thefe were only feen near the fhip, and it will occur to you that they arofe from the minute particles of water, beat off by the veilel, dividing the rays of light, and caufing them to fall upon the fea in the form of rich and diftin& rainbows. They are often extremely brilliant, and are feen, as it were, lying in numbers upon the water.- - The very beautiful rifing and fetting of | the fun and the moon were the frequent and admired fubje&ts of our contemplation, Viewed from a Weft India fea, the furface of thefe orbs does not appear, like a mere plane fixed in the heavens, as in Europe, but their _ convexity, and globular form are feen very diftin@ly. When rifing they appear as de- tached globes protruding from the deep: at fetting they refemble diftin@ fpheres finking, or rather dropping, divefted of their rays, into the ocean. , : 219 The moon is brighter than in England, and reflects a clearer light. When only a few days old the whole orb is vifible—not decked in uniform brightnefs,:as when it is at the full, but with the great body in fhade, while the horned edge, alone, is drefled in ue filver. The appearance of the weftern fky was likewife an object of novelty tous. By day the whole canopy is one fine azure expanfe, bright and unclouded ; but, at evening, dark mountainous clouds accumulate, and, gather- ing into deep heavy mafles, impend in awful majefty of form over the horizon. 220 LETTER 2 Author continues to addrefs bis friend, but cannot fend away his letters. Lord Sheffield vifited by anxious crowds in gueft of news. Perilous flate of St. Vincent and Grenada. Guadaloupe reinforced. French gafconade. Enemy's fri- gates and cruifers infeft the coaft of Barbadoes. Lofs of the Leda frigate. Brunfwick detached with troops to St. Vincent. The loft Stanley fafe in Carlile Bay, alfe nine or ten other tran[ports of the Decembe- convoy. Au- thor and bis comrades go on fhore at Barbadoes. Remarks upon the novelty of the fcene. Vifit to an Americen flave Soip - ~ - toa Liverpool Guinea-man. Carlifle Bay, Feb, Ty purfuance of my promife I Rill dire@ my pen towards you, notwithftanding the uncer- tainty when I may be able to fend away my let- ters. On account of the repeated difafters of the flect, and the fad delays that have occurred, you will believe that we, who have had the good fortune to complete our paflage, are extremely anxious to make known to our friends that we are in fafety:: but, as though the diftaff of the fates were thrown out to en- tangle us in vexation, no opportunity offers of conveying intelligence to Europe. A packet 221 is eftablithed to fail, from England every fortnight ; but none has reached Barbadoes, for many weeks pafi ; and the inhabitants are looking out, with anxious folicitude, for fe- -yeral which remain due: nor is it expected ‘that any mail will be made up for England until fome of thefe arrive. Should any merchantman fail, I will avail myfelf of that opportunity to forward to you this letter, together with thofe written upon the paflage : but of this I have very little hope, as no unprotected vefiel can venture to fea without extreme peril, on account of the ene- my’s cruifers. | The period is critical and important. News from each fhore of the Atlantic, to its oppofite, is fought with the moft lively an- xiety. While youare looking to us for tidings of ourfelves, of our {cattered fleet, and of en- | dangered iflande ; we, unable to relieve your fufpenfe, are looking to you, with no lefs | anxiety for intelligence of England and of | Europe. The avidity for news, which, here, | difplays itfelf, is vivid beyond all I can exprefs. ' gebg Our anchor was not dropped, indeed we had > {carcely entered the harbour before a variety of people came out, in boats, to meet us, and, fcrambling on board, afked the news in fuch hurried folicitude as f{carcely to wait a reply, before each queftion was followed by another. What news? what news? what news of the ‘fleet? what news of England? what news from the Continent? were all uttered in fuch rapid fucceflion, that the only anfwer we - could properly make, ferved as a general re~ ply - - - “None! we have been nine weeks at fea, and have every intelligence to feek—none “to give.” ~ Our abr upt vifitors were extremely dif appointed, when, inftead of being able to {a~ tisfy them, they foundthat we wereequally fo- licitous to demand news of our convoy, of the Iflands, and of the failing of the packet . 4 | for England. You will readily imagine that — from the critical fiate of Europe, on the one hand, and the perilous fituation of the Iflands, onthe other, together with the long interrupted communication between chan each party, partaking all the are of the period, was a3 more defirous to afk queftions, than to offer __ replies. | We could impart nothing fatisfactory ; and the information we acquired was not very gratifying. ‘The following were the _ leading circumftances. which we collected at the moment. Grenada, we were told, was, almoft wholly, in pofleflion of the brigands : St. Vincent in imminent danger from the Charibs: and Guadaloupe, if not St. Lucie, fo ftrengthened by reinforcements from France as to bid us defiance. As a fpecimen of French gafconade, I may tell you what is reported to be the prefent language of that infolent democratic tyrant, Victor Hugues; “ Let them come ! let the general lead hither his troops ! we will invite them afhore ; nay ! we will lay planks to their veflels that they may not wet their feet in vifiting us, and when we have them here we will teach them who is Victor: we wiil give the officers their favorite toaft, and accommodate them with fpeedy promotion.” Such is faid to be the idle boafting of this man, in confequence of the - Yeinforcements lately arrived from, Europe. 224. Two French frigates, and hordes of pri-~ vateers had been cruifing, with too much fuc- _cefs, againft our f{cattered tranfports and mer- 'chantmen. ‘The frigates ‘had lately been daring enough to look into the harbour of Carlifle Bay, and the Charon of 44 guns armed en flute, one of the earlieft arrivals of © the Spithead fleet, had been fent out, with La Pique frigate, in purfuit of them. The Leda frigate, employed to convoy a fleet of victuallers from Cork, had, been upfet in a gale, and, unhappily, funk to the bot- tom, with all hands on board, feven only excepted. Thefe had fince arrived in one of the vidtuallers, at Barbadoes; but feveral of the convoy, left unprotected by this fatal ac- cident, had been captured by the enemy’s cruifers. The commander in chief was Rill un- - heard of; nor was there any accurate intelli- gence of the fleet, although a few Maggling veffels had arrived. This was the fum of the news that greet- 225 ted our arrival at. Barbadoes. But gloomy as it was, the diftrefsful feelings it produced were, in fome degree, alleviated by our learn- ing, foon afterwards, that the Brunfwick, which had been ordered to proceed with troops to the relief of St. Vincent, had ar- rived moft opportunely to fave the ifland ; and that the Stanley, which had failed with the firft fleet in November, and was fuppofed to have been loft, during the difaftrous ftorm | which arofe in the channel, had arrived fafe in Carlifle bay, on Chriftmas day, being the only fhip of the November convoy that made good her paflage ; and, further, that nine or ten of ‘the veflels of the December convoy had reached Barbadoes in fafety, with ME yraEgS On. > - two thoufand troops on board. _The inhabitants, who beft knew the {tate of the neighbouring iflands, were ex- tremely anxious to fee thefe troops employed ; and, on this account, they were looking out, with double anxiety, for the arrival of the commander in chief. The delight we felt on the glad occafion VOL. I. Q 226 of fetting our feet, again, upon terra firma was more exquilite than I can exprefs; and it was highly augmented by the novelty that fur- rounded us. The houfes, the ftreets, the people, the fruit, fifh, and vegetables, the trees, the fields, every thing before us, was new. ‘The very means of labour and amufe- ment were novel, and all combined to indicate the change we had made—all befpake our re- . moval from a northern to a tropical latitude, We gazed on all we met, and all we pafled. Objects which, at other moments, had been trifling and unimportant, now called forth our attention. ‘The eye of curiofity fuffered nothing to efcape. Ideas crowded upon our minds in fuch rapid fucceffion, that the confu- ~ fion of chaos feemed to bé renewed. The - univerfal metamorphofis that furrounded us prevented our digefting the fcene, which pre- fented itfelf, into any thing of order or ar- rangement: yet was the whole uncommonly gratifying ; and, without being able to dif. criminate, we contemplated, in a fort of pleafing reverie, this feeming change of worlds, Complex as are the feelings of fuch a moment, I have often withed that they 227 were lefs fleeting, or could more frequently recur; for, upon fuch occafions, the mind feems to enjoy unparalleled delight; and to dwell with rapture, on objets which, under other circumftances, would pafs unheeded by. We took our umbrellas in our hands, by way of parafols, but found lefs occafion for — them than we had been taught to expec ; for although the heat was greater, by feveral de- erees, in Bridge ‘Town than in the harbour, ‘we did not feel, from it, any degree of lan- guor or oppreflion. A pleafant breeze coun- teracted the ardent rays of the fun ; and, at - our firft vifit, we rambled, for two hours, about the town, to the barracks, and into the fields, — with far lefs inconvenience from heat, than I have often experienced in the clofe and ey days of England. It will be quite within your recolleGtion ~ how long, and how much I have wifhed to vifit the fhips trading to Africa, and to witnefs perfonally, the manner of treating thofe poor beings of fable fkin, who are torn from their Q.2 928 native home, by the iron-hand of commerce, | to be tranfported to a home of flavery; and | you will be pleafed to learn that in this with, I have had an early opportunity of being gratified. A flave fhip, belonging to North | America, and bound to Savanna in Georgia, had arrived from the coaft of Guinea juft be- fore we came into harbour, and was lying very near to us, with a cargo of negroes on board. Fearing fhe might fail for America, and being unwilling to lofe the firft occafion that offered, of adminiftering to a curiofity which beat flrong in our breafts, Mafter, Cleg- horn, and myfelf took off a boat, the morning after we came to anchor, and went to vifit ‘the Guinea-man. We confidered ourfelves . fortunate in finding both the mafter and mate of the thip dif{pofed to thew us every civility, and to indulge us in ready reply to the queftions which our curiofity fuggefted. A little before they made Carlifle bay thes had been taken out of their thip, and — detained a whole night, on board an Englith frigate, while their papers were examined, under the fulpicion that the veflel and cargo 229 were Dutch property : but the property being proved to be American, they were releafed, — and the fhip is now taking in water, prepa- ratory to purfuing her voyage down to the ftate of Georgia. The cargo confifted of a hundred and thirty flaves, of whom two-thirds were males, - and one-third females. The two fexes were kept feparate by a partition, or bulk-head, built from ‘fide to fide, acrofs the fhip; allot- ting the qwaift to the men, and to the women, the quarterdeck. A great majority of them - were very young, being from ten to eighteen years of age. We were pleafed to obferve that an air of cheerfulnefs and contentment prevailed amongthem. In a few only we re- marked defpondency, and deje&tion of coun- tenance. Both fexes were without apparel, having only a narrow band of blue cloth put round the waift, and brought to faften before, fo as to ferve the office of the fig-leaf, worn by our firft parents, in the fruitful garden of “Eden. As we walked through the different groups of them, they fixed their eyes upon us, with feeming curiofity; and fome of the 23 230 boys, like thofe of fairer fkin, were inclined to be playful, and to exhibit youthful tricks. One or two of the females, unchecked by the. referve of education, occafionally glanced an expreflive look, or difplayed a figniticant gefture. Many of them had marks upon the fkin which appeared to have been made with a cutting inftrument. Thefe, we learned, were diftinctive of the nation to which they had belonged. Some had their teeth cut, or filed to fharp points, giving them a very hideous, and canine appearance. ‘They looked well fed and healthy, although fome of them > had an eruption, called the cra-cra upon the | {kin. Their fleeping births were the naked boards. Divided into two crowded parties, they repofed, during the night, upon the bare planks below—the males on the ‘main- deck—the females upon the deck of the off cabin, In the day-time they were not al- lowed to remain in the place where they had flept, but were kept ‘moftly upon the open deck, where they were made to exercife, and encouraged by the mufic of their loved banjar, to dancing and cheerfulnefs, 234 We faw them dance, and heard them fing. In dancing they fcarcely, moved their feet, but threw about their arms, and twifted and writhed their bodies into a multitude of dif- gufting and indecent attitudes. Their fong was a wild and favage yell, devoid of all foftnefs and harmony, and loudly chanted in harfh monotony. ‘Their food is chiefly rice, which they prepare by plain and fimple boiling. At the time of mefling they fquat round the bowl in large bodies, upon their heels and haunches, like monkies, each putting his paws into the platter to claw out the rice with his fingers. We faw feveral of them ems ployed in beating the red hufks off the rice, which was done by pounding the grain in ~ wooden mortars, with wooden peftles, fuf- ficiently long to allow them to ftand upright while beating in mortars placed at their feet. This appeared to be a labour of cheerfulnefs. They beat the peftle in tune to the fong, and feemed happy; yet nothing of in- _, duftry marked their toil, for the pounding was performed by, indolently, raifing the Q4 232 peftle and then leaving it to fall from its own weight. ‘ ion Iam moft happy to conclude my report of this vifit by informing you that we difcover- ed no marks of thofe horrors and cruelties, {aid to be practifed on board the fhips occupied in this fad traffic of human flefh ; and which are reprefented as fo frightfully augmenting the manifold ills of flavery. Chains, ftripes, and feverities did not feem to‘have bee nin the catalogue of means: employed in conveying thefe poor Africans to their American mafters. Our minds, neceflarily, fuffered in contemplas __ ting the degrading practices of civilized beings towards the lefs cultivated brethren of their . {pecies: but the eye was not fhocked by the _ abufes of tyranny and inhumanity. The comfort and health of the flaves were pro- - moted withevery care. Being fond of wath- ing in cold water, they were encouraged to the free ufe of it ; and their perfons, as well as the whole of the fhip, were kept remarkably clean. They were plentifully fed; and, in the day-time, were difperfed aboutthe fhip, fo as to be prevented, as much as poflible, from 4 233 affembling together, in clofe unwholefome crowds. Mirth and gaiety were promoted among them: they were roufed to bodily exercife, and care was ufed to divert their minds from dwelling upon their change of ftate, ane lofs of home: and I may truly Jay, that. a more general air of contentment selgned among them than could have been expected. While many were dancing and finging, and playing together, others were giving their affiftance in working the thip; and, we even learned that feveral of them had made themfelves highly ufeful on the paflage, and were already becoming expert failors, | They all feemed to regard the mafter of the veflel more in affection than fear; and, although ftri@ly obedient, they did not ap- pear to be at all under the influence of terror. Crowded in fome degree, they, neceflarily, mu{t be, particularly in the place where they flept; but every attention was paid to prevent the injury which might derive from it; and to keep them in health, We went down below to fee their place - 234+ of repofe, where the hard planks formed one common bed, and each individual employed his arm as his pillow. The men could not ftand between decks, without flooping ; and when they lay down, the boards were fo clofely fpread, that it was fcarcely poffible to fet a foot between their naked bodies. They were always taken upon deck early in the morning,and the fleeping birth was thoroughly . cleaned and wafhed; but ftill it was highly offenfive to European olfactories ; and plainly indicated, that were it not for the great atten= tion paid to cleanlinefs and ventilation, difeafe muft inevitably be generated. Their naked- nefs is, perhaps, theirbeft fecurity ; for although they had neither bed-clothes, nor perfonal ° ~ covering, nor any kind of baggage, or furnis ture in-the place, we perceived that all the — cleaning and airing employed could not fub- due the ftench created by their fleeping toges ther in fuch crowded heaps. Although they are fond of wafhing, and feem to have fome fenfe of perfonal cleanli- nefs, they have none of cleanlinefs of place, sor of common decency : for, notwithftanding 235 the firiteft injunctions againft it, they cannot always be prevented from the filthy habit of depofiting their natural excretions upon the {pot where they fleep. The wool of their heads forms a thick — cover for vermin, of which they have, com- monly, a {warming abundance; therefore to prevent this, and to further the rules of clean- linefs, all their heads had been fhaved: but this, we were told, had deprived them of one ereat fource of occupation and amufement; it being a fingular pleafure to them to fit down in pairs, for hours together, to enjoy the focial feaft of picking each other’s heads, and afterwards twifting and plaiting the wool into a variety of forms. | The pleafure we had experienced from finding thefe poor blacks in a ftate of ap- parent contentment, and, with refpec to the | reported cruelty, enjoying a degree of compa- rative comfort, was fucceeded by feelings of horror, on hearing the relation of an infur- rection which had taken place, on board the fhip, previous to their failing from the coaft of 236 \ Africa, Many of the negroes being detained on board for a confiderable time while the cargo was completing, and lying, during this period, within fight of their native fhore, from which, and, perhaps, from their wives and families, they were about to be torn for ever, had grown indignant even to defperation, and rifing upon the fhip’s company, murdered the mafter and mate, who then belonged to the veffel, and wounded feveral of the men: nor was it until after a very fevere and bloody conteft that they were overcome; when the ting-leaders were put to death, as an example to deter others from again revolting. One of the failors fhewed us three defperate wounds which he had received on the face, the breaft,. . and the arm, from the bal ae of an axe, with which one of the blacks had, jutt Nt oi ftruck off the captain’s head. The next day, after our vifit to the American flave- fhip, an opportunity offered of feeing one of our own nation—a Liverpool Guinea-man—a fhip of much greater burden, fitted out exprefsly for the trade, with a fuffi- cient number of hands and of guns an board 237 to protect her again{t the enemy’s privateers ; and calculated for a cargo of five hundred ilaves. , We were taught to believe that we thould find the negroes much better accom- modated in this, than in the American fhip; but we could not obferve that the fuperiority _ was either great, or firiking. Although the --veflel was larger, the number of flaves was more than proportionally greater. In other refpedts the accommodations were nearly equal. The Liverpool fhip was kept re- markably clean ; but the American was not lefs fo ; and, between the decks, the American thip was the moft commodious, being higher, and having more room in proportion to the cargo, from which the flaves had the advantage of being lefs clofe and confined during the night. 7 In the fleeping place of the Englith veffel we could not ftand up without flooping almoft double :—in each the men and women were kept feparate—in both their food was ‘Tice; and ia both they flept naked upon the 6 238 naked planks, crowded together like fheep itt a fold. | 3 The moft ftriking difference that occurred to our obfervation was, that the flaves of the Liverpool fhip were of blacker and fmoother — fkin than the others,and all of them free from that dirty eruption, the cra-cra; but upon our noticing this better appearance of one cargo than the other, the apparent fupe- riority was inftantly explained to us, by the obfervation that the Liverpool veffel had reached her deftined port, and that her cargo had been made up, for market, by having their fkins drefled over three or four times with a compound of gun-powder, lime-juice and oil —a preparation which not only deftroys the cra-cra, and gives the fkin, a fmooth, black, and polithed appearance, but likewife renders it fleck and fine: and it was further remarked’ — that the cargo of the American fhip would be made to look as well, before they reached the port where. they were to be expofed for fale. 239 LETTER XXI. Author and his comrades live on board foip at Barbadoes. - Accommodation of a Barbadoes tavern. Method of cooling tiquors. Porter better than in England. Tavern wait- ers. Black and mulatto hofteffes. Privilege of female | attendants. Bar-maid at Mary Bella Green's. Law concerning the children of flaves. Women of colour not dig- nified with the title of miflrefs. Converfation with two fea male flaves. | Carlifle Bay, Feb. From the details I gave you of our te- dious voyage, you will learn, with furprize, that we ftill continue to live on board fhip. But to this we have many inducements. It is much cooler in the harbour, than it is in Bridge Town ; we are much lefs annoyed with mufquitoes; and, from our belonging to the St. Domingo ftaff, and being in daily expec- tation of receiving orders to proceed to that ifland, we are, at all moments, ready to move;. and without the rifk of leaving cur. baggage behind ; moreover, by living on board, while _we are detained to windward, our fea-habits are continued, and perhaps we may thereby 240 avoid the tormenting ficknefs of a fecond voyage. | ve We have a regular mefs eftablifhed. Every morning we go or fend to market for provifions ; and our domeftic arrangements are better regulated, and in more of com- fort than if we were on fhore Occafionally we dine, and {pend the whole, or part of a day at Bridge Town, but we never fail to re- turn on board to fleep. 3 We find that the accommodations of a Weft India tavern, although not precifely what a Bond-ftreet lounger would expect in St. James’s-fireet, or a high-fed alderman in the. city, are by no means defpicable: and you -know that I am enough a foldier, and.a tra- veller, rather to court the varieties we meet, than to repine, and regard them as hardthips, becaufe they are not, in every feature, the fame’ as we are accuftomed to in England. — , But you have defired to be told of thefe- varietics.as they occur, and [ have an early op- portunity of trying your patience.—Our _ firft dinner on fhore was at a tavern in Bridge Town, kept by a mulatto woman, Mary Bella Green. Plenty prevailed. The crowd- ed table {moked with fith, a piece of boiled beef, a pepper-pot; a turkey, fome roafted veal, and a-quarter of mutton, with feveral dif ferent kinds of puddings, and quite an affort- ‘ment of vegetables, of eight or nine dif- ferent f{pecies—European and tropical. Our liquors were—moft excellent bottled porter, good Madeira, tolerable claret, and very fine Noyeau. In the defert we were fadly difap- pointed, for, inftead of the fine tropical fruits we had expected, three or four of the very common and inferior fpécies were fet before us, unripe, and bad in quality: viz. goavas, bananas, and four-fops, with fome tough, and bitter fhaddocks—to any, and all of which, the commoneft apples, or goofeberries, of ' Europe had been preferable, But Barbadoes is not an ifland abounding in the finer fruits of the climate, hence we do not judge of the delicious productions of the Weft Indies by this ill-chofen fample. Our party, for whom we had ordered “dinner, confifted of nine perfons, but. upoa VOL. I. R = 24.2 coming to table, we found covers for fifteet, and learned that, inftead of giving us a private dinner, as we had dire@ed, they had put us into a large public room, and ferved a kind of table d’hote. Not being prepared for this ar- rangement, we_remonftrated againft it, and, with fome difficulty, prevailed in having the extra-covers removed ; but we foon perceiv- ed that we had gained little by thus inter- rupting the cuftoms of the houfe: for they, dire@tly, fpread another table in the fame room, and, fetting down the fix ftrangers clofe by us,. divided the dinner, they had dreffed, between the two patties. In making out their bill for payment, they do not detail the feparate articles of the dinner, the number of bottles of wine, the different plates of fruit, 8c. as in England, but put down the whole fum, under the three general items of dinner, wine, and fruit; and, at any houfe you are accuftomed to ufe, if you call, occafionally, in a morning to reft, or to take fhelter from. the fun, or rain, they > give you a glafs of lemonade, or of coco-nut water, with a “very welcome,” and confi- der themfelves rewarded, by the payment 243, you make when you take dinner at the hhoufe. Nor is the demand for this at all ex- - Sravagant, except, in fo far as regards the the bad fruit. We paid adollar each fordin= ~~ ner ; the fame for the wine ; and half a dollar : _ for the defert. | They make the wine and porter very pleafantly cool, by putting the bottles in wet cloth bags, and placing them in the _open windows, for fome time before din- ner; taking care to fprinkle them, occafion- ally, with water, as they ftand expofed to the breeze. A very rapid evaporation is thus produced, and, confequently, far more heat carried off, than. by merely fetting the bottles cold in water. The porter is fo high- _ ly improved by the climate, and rendered fo pleafant, by this method of cooling, as to be very fuperior to any that is drank in England. | The attendants of the table are very nu- | merous, black and yellow, male and female— perhaps too numerous to ferve you wéll: for _ they are badly regulated, and the duty of one R 2 / 244 being the duty of all, it is not regarded as the | particular duty of either, and, confequently, is apt to be left unlieeded. Lach, being idle and ina@ive, waits for another to ftep be- fore him, when any thing is called for ; and, although you have a crowd of fervants round you, it is difficult to obtain what you . want. | : The females are, ufually, of erect fi- eure, and ftately carriage, but they move in all the languor of the climate. They ap- pear without fhoes and ftockings, in a ~ fhort white jacket, and a thin fhort petti- coat. They wear a white turban on the head ; but the neck and fhoulders are left bare. Silence is not efteemed a neceflary qua- lification among them, for they often join, with great freedom, and a fad drawling accent, in the converfation of the table. This will appear to you but little confiftent with the referve and abject forbearance of flavery; but it is the confequence of the public fitu- ation in which thefe women are placed, and the familiarity that is commonly ufed towards ‘them by ftrangers—to any, or all of whom } ey’ they are the very obedient, obliging, and mof convenient humble fervants. On firft making inguiry, refpeQing the accommodations of the houfe, we were _furprized to learn their extent, and the facility with which they are attainable. A bed may be had: for half a doilar per night, or three dollars per week ; and, for an additional fum well underftood, the choice of an attend- ant to draw the curtains. The hoftefs of the tavern is, ufually, a black, or mulatto woman, who has been the favored enamorata of fome backra * man; from whom fhe has obtained her freedom, and per- haps two or three flaves to affift her in carry- ing on the bufinefs of the houfe; where the now indulges in indolence, and the good things of life, grows fat, avd feels herfelf of importance in fociety. To thofe who, in compliance with the Highgate privilege, court her particular attention, in preference to the more youthful attendants around her, the is f{uppofed not to be violently cruel. oie * The negro term ufed for white, R35 24.6 ae It is to her advantage that the female at- tendants of her family fhould be as handfome as fhe can procure them. Being flaves, the only recompence of their fervices, is the food they eat, the hard bed they fleep on, and the few loofe clothes which are hung upon them. One. privilege, indeed, is allowed them, which, you will be fhocked to know, is that of tenderly difpofing of their perfons; and this offers the only hope they have of pro- curinga fum of money, wherewith to purchafe their freedom: and the refource among them is fo common, that neither fhame nor difgrace ' attaches to it; but, on the contrary, fhe who is. moft fought, becomes an object of envy, and is proud of the diftinction fhewn her, One of our attendants at table, appeared, both from her converfation and behaviour, to be very fuperior to her degraded ftation. She had nothing of beauty, nor-even pretti- nefs of face, but the was of good figure, and of refpectable and interefting demeanor, and, in point of intelle&, far above her colleagues. Together with gentlenefs of manner, and an eafy, pleafant addrefs, the poflefles a degree 247 P of underftanding and ability which claim re- {pe&. In principle, and in fentiment, fhe appeared virtuons ; and, from the franknefs of her replies, i it was evident that fhe knew no fenfe of wrong in her condu&. We could not but lament that the imperious habits of the country did not allow of her being placed as a more refpectable member of fociety. ri ; _ This woman is the great fupport of the houfe—the bar-maid, and leading ma- nager of the family. Her miftrefs had re- fufed to take a hundred guineas for her; which, the affured us, had been offered by a gentleman who would have purchafed her, She has a very lively interefting little daughter, a Meftee about four years old. Of this child the fpake with great tendernefs, and appeared to bear it all the fond attachment of an affeGionate parent. _ Yet, as the infant was born in flavery, fhould the mother, by any means, obtain her own freedom, fhe can- not claim her child ; but mutt leave it, ftill the difpofable property of her miftrefs, eayally RA \ liable to be fold as any other piece of furni- ture in the houfe: for, in Barbadoes, the off- {pring of a woman in flavery becomes the ab- folute property of the owner to whom the mother belongs, whether it be black, yellow, or white; as the law knows no period when © the child of a flave fhall be born free, how- ever removed from the African: nor can the mother, under any circumftanees of fubfequent liberation, claim her infant from its owner, even though it fhould be of fairer fkin than the faireft European. Thus are the natural ties of our fpecies torn afunder; and the deareft attachments, and pureft affeGlions of the heart cruelly brcken down! Babes are feparated from their parents, and mothers robbed of their children, | by this unatural appropriation of human fub- ftance ! The manners, and the circumftances attending the fituation of this mulatto were ftrongly interefting. Her whole deportment befpake a degree of délicacy and refine- ment, tugether with a fuperiority of mind and 249 | “underftanding! Her intelligence and quick- 4 nefs of -percepiion affured us that fhe had ta- ents capable of high improvement ; and it is F arcbable, that had fortune fo placed her in tlife, as to have offered her the acquire- ments of a chafte and cultivated education, this woman, notwithftanding the color of her {kin, had made a faithful and virtuous wife ; been an ornament to her friends and fociety ; and a blefling to the man who fhould have made her the partner of his hours. The taverns are commonly known by the names of the perfons who keep them. The mott frequented, at Bridge Town, are thofe of Nancy Clarke, and Mary Bella Green ; the former a black—the latter a mu- latto woman. Mrs. Clarke, or Mrs. Green would fcarcely be known! A party is faid to dine at Mary Bella Green’s, or at Nancy Clarke’s—or, more concifely, at Mary Bella’s or at Nancy’s.—The title Mrs—feems to be referved, folely, for the ladies irom Lurope, and the white creoles, and to form a diftine- . tion between them and the women of color of all clafles and defcriptions --no1e of whom, | 250 of whatever fhade or degree, are “dignified with this appellation. : In the evening, hes taking our firft dinner on fhore, Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf made a walk to vifit the hofpitals and bar- racks at St. Anne’s Hill ; and, on our way back to Bridge Town, wewereaccofted bytwo negro girls of re{pectable appearance, fittingupon the ftep of a gentleman’s gateway, by the road fide. Being juft arrived in a land of flavery, _and feeling defirous to converfe with the Afri- cans, and their defcendants, in order to afcer- _ tain whether any deficiency of intelle&, or — inferiority of natural capacity was obfervable among them, we gladly detained ourfelves, - for fome minutes, in converfation with thefe decent-looking young flaves. They were the property of the gentleman, at whofe gate they were fitting ; and were employed as houfe fervants, or as they are here termed, © Bou e-wenches *,” in his family. Trifling as it is, I give you the conver- ™® Domeftics of the kitchen, not flaves of the field. rad. 251 fation as.it paffed, divefting it only of the broken accent, with which our language is fpoken by the negroes. It will ferve to thew you that the replies were not inappofite ; and perhaps not inferior to what might have been expected, from the common order of people in Europe. One of the ‘girls was about fixteen, the other eighteen years of age. They converfed with cafe and affability, but were very refpectful and unafluming, and their. whole conduc might have done credit evento European fervants, not of the loweft clafs, On our afking to whom they belonged, hey replied “ We belong to Col. B’s. lady.” Is this Col. B’s houfe? “ Yes; but the Col. is not at home—he is gone to England.” How does it happen that you are fitting here, in- fiead of being in the houfe at work? “ Our work, for to-day, is finifhed, and we came to - the gate to fee the ftrangers, as they pafs by.” What ftrangers? “ The ftrangers, who are come with the army, from old England.” Do you like to meet ftrangers? “* Oh! yes, yes!” And to talk with them? “ Yes, if gba they talk with us.” Are the people, here, kind to firangers? “ Oh, yes! it is always our cuftom: every body fhould be more kind to ftrangers than to their own people.” ‘Why - fo ?—fhould we not be kind to every body? “© Yes! we fhould be kind to every bedy, but we fhould be more kind to ftrangers, becaufe they come far from their own home, and their friends ; and becaufe we may fome time travel ourfelves, and want kindnefs from _ others.” Have you ever been far from your home? “ No! but, perhaps, we may fome day.” How far have you ever travelled from your mafter’s houfe? ‘‘ Never more than five miles.” Did you ride or walk? They both ' fmiled, and hung down their heads, looking to the ground. No reply could have been more expreffive, nor better underftood.— * Ride! a flave ride! you are ftrangers here indeed! No! we walked, bore our burden on our backs, and journied on our naked feet ! We bade them good night, and walked on, pleafed with the rencontre. 263 U ~ LETTER XXII. Meat fold alive in the market at Barbadoes. Cujftom of blow- ing the meat. Creoles caution Dr. Cleghern and the, author againf? walking. Vifit to a fugar plantation. Specimen of the indolent labour of flaves. A wafbing party. Indecency of women upon the fireets. Effect of the - indecent habits of flaves upsn the minds of white females. _ Negro cuftom of picking each other’s heads. Savage jight _ between a black woman, and a mulatto woman, Carlifle Bay, Feb. ne office of caterer for the mefs having ~~ fallen to the lot of your friend, I may tell you that I fometimes go to Bridge Town, to buy living meat for dinnre. You will, perhaps, be furprifed to learn that animals are, here, brought alive into the market, to be killed after the different joints are fold; and, that it often happens, that the meat is flaughtered, configned to the pot or {pit, brought to table, and eaten, without growing cold ! ~The very filthy cufiom of blowing the: mieat, is here carried to greater excefs than in England. As foon as the calf is dead, a 254 hole is cut through the fkin, near to the hock, and a long fharp-pointed, ftick, being intro- duced, is forced up the whole length of the thigh, and the fide, to tear or break down the cellular membrane. This being done, the ftick is withdrawn, and one negro puts his mouth to the hole and blows in air, while another beats, with a cane, upon every part of the fkin; which beating and blowing, are continued until the carcafe founds like a drum, and the whole furface is inflated like a full-blown bladder—the animal being dif- tended, to nearly twice its former fize. The fkin is then taken off, and the meat diftri- buted to the purchafers for immediate ufe. Leaving our comrades, Weir, and Ma- | fter, on board, Cleghorn and myfelf requently make excurfions on fhore, and ftroll about the town and the ficlds, by way of ex- — ercife, and of gratifying the ftrong curiofity which we feel to fee and know all that ap-- pertains to the change we have made. “In - thefe ramblings, we often furprize the Welt Indians, by, what they term, the dangerous extent of our walks; and they aflure us that, a = gs. few months hence, we fhall be little inclined to ufe fuch violent exercife. A walk of five or fix. miles appears to them fremendous: but we fuffer no inconvenience from it, and, per-_ haps, without being, yet, well able to judge, we fancy that much of the languor and in- activity of the Creoles and creolifed, might be prevented, and ftronger health enjoyed, were they to accuftom themfelves, more freely, to habits of exercife. Againft our theory they urge experience, remarking that all Euro- - peans, however fond of ufing much exercife, on their firft arrival, gradually lapfe into the fame indolent indulgence as the natives. In one of thefe excurfions we, lately, made a firft vifit to a-fugar eftate, in the hope of feeing the works, and witneffing the mode of making the fugar ; but we were difappointed, by finding that none of the . flaves were at work, and that the manager was from home, with the keys of the boiling houfe in his pocket. We had, however, fome compenfation in being allowed to walk into an excellent garden, adjoining the houfe, where we were gratified with the novelty 256 of feeing a number of the tropical fruits, and obferving the garden hedge, which was form- ed of a bufh bearing immenfe quantities of | a fpecies of cherry, of a very pleafant flavor. From this walk we returned to Bridge Town, by way of Pilgrim, the refidence of | the governor—a pleafant home, fituated | upon an elevated {pot, about a mile from the Town. Near this place our attention was ar- refted by a party of flaves, or, according to the language of the ifland, a gang of negroes, who were employed in making a road to the governor's houfe. It was the firft large body — of flaves we had met with, toiling at their re- gular employment, immediately under the Jath of the whip; and we could not but remark that the manner of executing the tafk afforded a ftriking example of the in- dolence of climate, and of flavery. Nothing of diligence, nor indufiry appeared among them ; and, verily, but little of bodily labor was expended. ‘They feemed almoft too idle to. raife the hammer, which they let fall by its own weight, repeating the blow feveral - times, upon the fame flone, until, it was ’ EF is broken to pieces. A mulatto overfeer at- tended them, holding a whip at their backs ; but he had every appearance of being as much a ftranger to induftry, as the negroes ; who proceeded very indolently, without feeming to be at all apprehenfive of the. driver or his whip, except when he made it fall acrofs them in ftripes. In proportion to the work done by Englith laborers, and the price, ufually, _ paid for it, the labor of thefe flaves could not be calculated at fo much as twopence per day; for almoft any two men in 'Eng=_ land would, with the greateft eafe, do as _ much work ina given time, as was performed by a dozen of thefe indolent meager-looking beings, In one of our late perambulations, we fell in with a party of negro women, wafh- ing linen, at the opening of a river near the fea; and a more difgufting fight I do not recolle& ever to have beheld. They were old women, of ftrong-marked, and . very hideous African countenance; and had no (0) ae § 258 regard to decency either of manner, or per- fon. Their bodies were naked, fave a bit of blue cloth folded round the loins, and brought between the legs, from Lehind, to faften before. As they’ ftooped down, to dip the linen in the river, many of them ex- pofed the crowded and callous efcars of re- peated punifhment; and when they moved themfelves in rubbing the clothes, or beating them upon the large ftones before them, their long flaccid breafts fell over their arms, or hung in loofe maffes’ of corrugated fkin flapping upon their bodies, fo as to cre- ate a moft difgufting and abhorrent appear- ance. It has alfo happened to us to witnefs another fpecies of indelicacy among the negro women, which is extremely offenfive to an - European eye. Regardlefs of decency, and of the crowd they meet, they are fometimes feen drawing their naked, pendulous breafts as they walk along, and fpilling their milk upon the public ftreets. | You will, perhaps, be more fhocked 259 than furprized that fuch-like indecencies ‘fhould occur among the flaves; but you will joinin my regret that they fhould happen be- fore the eyes of European wives, and {pin- fters; and you will lament the fad effed which the frequent recurrence of fuch of- fenfive fcenes muft, neceflarily, have in de- ftroying that modeft delicacy of fentiment, which renders fo truly lovely, while it fo much exalts the female mind. Of this baneful effe@, I am forry to have it in my power to mention to you a ftriking example, which lately occurred to my no- tice. Being in company with a large party of Europeans, and white creoles, male and female, hufbands, wives, widows, maidens, and ftrangers, at the time when the party was affembled, during the fhort moment before dinner, a {weet little babe, only a few months old, was brought into the room, by its black nurfe, to be exhibited to the com- pany: when the woman, who, with the ex-_ ception of one fhort petticoat, was in per- fe& nudity, was defired, before all prefent, tofuckle the child ; and its mother and grand- $2 260 mother, two of the moft refpectable ladies we have met, fince we left England, in order to pleafe “ little bab,’ amufed themfelves by flapping, prefling, fhaking about, and playing with the long black breafts of the — flave, with very indelicate familiarity, before the whole company ; and without feeming to be at all fenfible, that it was, in any degree, indecent or improper! In all corners of the ftreets we meet with the filthy fight of pairs of negroes, of both fexes, fitting and lying about, with their heads in each other’s laps, picking out the {warms of vermin which occupy their wool, This, as we had been told on board the flave fhips, feems to be a feaft of delight to the blacks, whether in freedom, or in fla- very. | | One day in paffing along the ftreet, we ‘chanced to fee a fight between two women of colour, one a negro, the other a mulatto. The crowd, about them, was very great, and European curiofity induced us to wait the refult ; but we have no defire to witnefs fuch 261 another conteft. You can have no concep- tion of the brutal and favage means which were ufed by thefe women to injure each other. Not only biting, pinching, flapping, and {cratching were employed ; but with the more horrid vengeance of the American gouchers, and in the moft cold and deliberate manner, did each of thefe females thruft her thumb or fingers into the nofe, mouth, and eyes, of the other, ftriving, inall the bitternefs and cruelty of favage nature, to tear to pieces, to blind, or to maim her opponent. I feel that this letter will be more painful than amufing to you; and almoft fear - that you will charge me with having looked out for unpleafant and diftrefsful events! But 1 may affure you that, without going in fearch of them, they have accidentally fallen in my path ; and, as they are {trong features, | cannot reconcile to myfelf to withhold them from you, merely becaufe they are not of fo pleafant a nature as I could have wifhed. Itis my object, faithfully, to lay before you the facts I meet with, whether happy or unhappy, in order that you may be enabled $3 262 to form a juft opinion of the character and habits of thofe among whom! may chance to be placed, while abfent from Eng- land. | 263 7 LETTER XXUT Sunday a day of feflivity among the flaves. African dances and mufic. Remarks of a Scottifb woman on fecing the negroes dance. racas between a negro man and woman. Negro funeral. Faith of flaves in tranfmigration after death. Singular expedient to deter them from fuicide. Barbadoes, Feb. Ir is ‘Sunday, and, feparated by the wide Atlantic, I take up my pen to hallow the fab- bath to my friend. Mentally I am every day in your fociety: but on the fabbath I breath a ftill warmer afpiration to dear En- gland, and fandify the with that we were, perfonally, nearer. Were you here to parti- ‘cipate them with me, the novel fcenes which ‘occur to my obfervation would have a double intereft, andI fhould find acharm in many things which now convey only a languid im- prefhion, Sunday is a day of feftivity among the flaves. ‘They are paffionately fond of dancing, and the fabbath; offering them an interval from toil, is, generally, devoted to their fa- hs 264. vorite amufement; and, inftead of remaining in tranquil reft, they undergo more fatigue, or at leaft more perfonal exertion, during their™ gala hours of Saturday night and Sunday, than is demanded from them, in labor, du- ting any four days of the week. They aflemble, in crowds, upon the open green, or in any f{quare or corner of the town, and, forming a ring in the centre of the throng, dance to the found of their be- loved mufic, and the finging of their favorite . African yell. Both mufic and dance are of . a favage nature. I have wifhed myfelf a mulician, that I might take down for you the notes of their fongs; which are very fimple, but harfh and wholly deficient in foft- nefs and melody. Afk the fair chantrefs. our _ delighting friend ---- the next time you meet her, and if fhe be not afraid of diftort- ing her fweet countenance, fhe can give you, | very accurately, all you may with to hear of.an African fong. | The inftrumental parts of the band con- fitt of a fpecies of drum, a kind of rattle, and 268 their ever-delighting Banjar. The firft is a long hollow piece of wood, with a dried fheep- {kin tied over the end; the fecond is a calabafh containing a number of {mall f{tones, fixed to a fhort ftick which ferves as the han- dle; and the third is a coarfe and rough kind of guitar. While one negro ftrikes the Banjar, another fhakes the rattle with great force of arm, and athird fitting acrofs the body of the drum, as it lies lengthwife upon the ground, beats and kicks the fheep {kin at the end, in violent exertion with his hands and heels, and a fourth fitting upon the ground at the other. end, behind the man upon the drum, beats upon the wooden fides of it with two fticks, . Together with thefe noify founds, numbers of, ’ the party of both fexes baw] forth their dear de- lighting fong with all poffible force of lungs ; and from the combination, and out enfemble of the {cene, a fpeGator would require only a flight aid from fancy to tranfport him to the favage wilds of Africa. On great occafions the band is increafed by an additional number of drums, rattles, and voices. The dance confifts of ftlamping of the 266 feet, twiftings of the body, and a number of flrange’ indecent attitudes. It is a fevere | bodily exertion—more bodily indeed than you can well imagine, for the limbs have little to do init. The head is-held ere&, or, occafionally, inclined a little forward—the hands nearly meet before—the elbows are fixed, pointing from the fides—and the lower extremities being held rigid, the whole perfon is moved without lifting the feet from the ground. Making the head and limbs fixed points, they writhe and turn the body upon its own axis, flowly advancing towards each other, or retreating to the outer parts of the ring, Their approaches, with the figure of the dance, and the attitudes and inflexions in which they are made, are highly indecent: but of this they feem to be wholly unconf{cious, for the gravity—I might fay the folemnity of countenance, under which all this pafles, is pe~ culiarly ftriking, indeed almoft ridiculous. Not a fmile—not a fignificant glance, nor an. immedeft look efcapes from either fex: but they meet, in very indecent attitudes, under the moft fettled, and unmeaning gravity of — countenance. Occafionally they change the — { Me By 267 figure by ftamping upon the feet, or making a more general movement of the perfon, but thefe are only temporary variations; the twiftings and turnings of the body feeming to conftitute the fupreme excellence of the dance. For the moft part only two. enter the ting at a time, but, occafionally, as many as three or four! each making a {mall contri- bution to the band at the time of ftepping into the circle. They circle, violently, toge- ther until one is tired, and when this efcapes from the circle another aflumes the place, thus continuing to follow, one by one, in fucceffion, fo as frequently to keep up the dance, without any interval, for feveral hours. / Both muficians and dancers feem, equal- ly, to delight in the amufement. They ex- ert themfelves until their naked fkias pour off copious ftreams. The band feem to be quite infen{ible to fatigue, for, in proportion as the fluid diftils from their pores, they in- creafe their efforts, raifing their voices, and beating the drum and the rattle, with ad- 268 ditional violence : and fuch of the {pectators | whofe olfaGtories have no relith for African odours, are fadly annoyed by the high- eflenced exhalation which fpreads itfelf around. _As I was looking on at one of thefe dances I obferved a foldier’s wife, from the north of Tweed, gazing with curiofity and aftonifh- ment, amidft the throng: and feeing her features marked with diflatisfaction and fur- prize, Lafked her what fhe thought of the African dance. ‘* Oot,” faid the “ts an unco way @ fpending the fabbath night.”—And on — my afking her if there were any as pretty 7 woman in the Highlands of Scotland, fhe, inftantly, replied. “* whether ar uot—ibey fmell better” Prefently a foldier pafling that way, and obferving the dance, afked a mulatto who was ftanding by, for a cud of tobacco, and } twifting it between his lower lip and his teeth, forced his way through the crowd, into the middle of the ring; and there pla- cing himfelf, betwen the negro and the girl 269 “who were dancing, fet the nymph in African ftep and figure. Wowdki was refponfive and they danced, cordially, together; but foon finifhed by footing it, in quick ftep, from the ring, happily enfolded in each others’ arms ; to the great difappointment of poor Sambo, who, no doubt, thought to regain his part- ner as foon as the foldier had grown tiréd in the dance. Near this merry green happened a fad fracas between a negro man and woman, in confequence of gaming ; which is a very pre- vailing paffion among the blacks. The wo- man had won from the man three dollars, and fome words having arifen between them, a fcuffle enfued, in which the man had torn off the few clothes, that covered the ebon dame, and expofed her, in nakednefs, to the crowd. She, in return, tore and mal-treated his breeches ; and the difpute now was whe- ther the woman, having been the fuccefsful adventurer, ought not to make reparation for the further injury fhe had committed. The man exclaimed, with fad violence, re- garding the additional lofs, fuitained by the 270 deftru€tion of his indifpenfible apparel. The woman, putting all fuccefs at play out of the queftion, infifted that fhe was the injured party, from having her petticoat ruined, and being expofed, in nudity, to the multitude. At length a refpectable looking, and decently drefled negro, who chanced to pafs that way, kindly undertook to fettle this important broil; and we obferved that much deference was paid to his opinion; but I am_ not fatished that he ated quite the part of an upright and impartial judge,— certainly his opinion was not fraught with gallantry, for having no eye of pity towards the diftrefled, and naked nymph, he decided — that a hole in the cwlottes was an evil of greater magnitude than a rent in the fetti- coat, and accordingly decreed that Penelope fhould forfeit half a dollar to Caffandro, for taking him by the breeches, | Having led you to the merry fong, and fprightly dance of the flaves, let me now con- duct you to their bed of death. Seeing a crowd in one of the ftreets, and obferving a 27% kind of proceffion, we followed the multi- tude, and foon found ourfelves in the train of a negro funeral. Withing to witnefs the ceremony of interment we proceeded to the burial ground, with the throng. The corpfe was conveyed in a neat fmall hearfe, drawn by one horfe. Six boys, twelve men, and. _ forty-eight women walked behind, in pairs, as followers, but I cannot fay as deeply afflic- ted mourners. The females were neatly clad, for the occafion, and moftly in white. Grief and lamentations were not among ‘them: nor was even the femblance thereof afflumed. No folemn dirge was heard—no deep-founding bell was tolled—no fearful ‘filence held. It feemed a period of mirth andjoy. Inftead of weeping and bewailing, the followers jumped and fported, as they pafled along, and talked and laughed, with each other, in high feftivity. The proceffion was clofed by five robuft negro fithermen, who followed behind playing antic gambols, and dancing all the way to the grave. _ At the gate of the burying ground the corpfe was taken from the hearfe, and borne SRS. by eight negroes, not upon their fhoulders, bute upon four clean white napkins placed under the coffin. The body was committed to the grave, immediately, on reaching it, without either prayer or ceremony; and the cof- fin, direQly, covered with earth. In doing this, much decent attention was. obférved. The mould was not fhovelled in roughly with the fpade, almoft difturbing the dead, — with the rattling of ftones and bones upon ' the coffin, but was firft put into a bafket, and then carefully emptied into the grave ; an obfervance which might be adopted in England very much to the comfort of the afflicted friends of the deceafed. . During this procefs an old negro wo= — man chanted an African air, and the muls titude joined her in the chorus. It was not — in the ftrain of a hymn, or folemn re- | quiem, but was loud and lively, in unifon | with the other gaieties of the occafion, Many were laughing and {porting the’ whole time with the fifhermen, who danced and gambolled, during the ceremony, upon 273 the neighbouring graves. From the mio- ment the coffin was committed to the earth, nothing of order was maintained by the party. The attendants difperfed in various direCtions, retiring, or remaining, during the filling up of the grave, as inclination feemed to lead. | When the whole of the earth was re- placed feveral of the women, who had ftaid to chant, in merry fong, over poor Jenny’s clay, took up a handful of the mould, and threw it down again upon the grave of their departed friend, as the finifhing of the ceremony, crying aloud ‘“ God blefs you, Fenny ! good-by! remember me to all friends f other fide of the fea, Fenny! Tell ’em me come foon! Good-by, Sfenny, good-by! See for fend me good - - - - to-night, Fenny ! Good-byy good night, Fenny, good-by!” All this was uttered in mirth and laughter, and accompanied with attitudes and gefticulations expreflive of any thing but forrow or fadnefs. From the grave-digeer we learned that poor Jenny had been a wafherwoman, and VOL I. T 274 that the females who had, fo merrily, found- ed her requiem, had been her fud-affociates. They had full faith in Jenny’s tran{mi- gration to meet her friends, at her place of | nativity; and their perfuafion that death was only a removal from their prefent to their former home—a mere change from a ftate of flavery to a ftate of freedom—did not barely alleviate, but’ wholly prevented the — natural grief and affli@ion arifing from the ’ lofs of a friend. They confidently expected to hear from poor Jenny, or to know her in- fluence, in the way they moft defired, before MOrMine, The faith of thefe poor ignorant flaves, regarding a happy tranfmigration, after death, would feem calculated to lead them to the crime of fuicide ; and, accordingly, this effe@ of their fuperftition is faid not to have been unfrequent among them. A tale is told of a fingular reme- dy having been practifed againft this fatal ex- pedient of the negroes. Several individuals of a gang having hanged themfelves to efcape from a cruel matter, and others being about to avoid his feverities by fimilar means, he 275 ‘prevented them, by the happy expedient of threatening to hang himfelf, alfo, and to tranfmigrate, with them, carrying the whip in his hand, into their own country; where he would punith them ten times more fe- verely than he had hitherto done. ‘The ftra- tagem is faid to have fucceeded. Finding they could not, thus, efcape from the tyran- nic lath, they refolved, rather than receive difgraceful ftripes among their African friends, to continue their exiftence under all the hard- fhips of flavery. 276 LETTER XXIV. Author and his comrades receive kind attentions from Mr. B. Hinde. Make a vifit to Dr. Hinde. General face of the country above Bridge-Town. The party at Dr. Flindés witnefs the procefs of making rum and fugar. Slaves employed as running footmen. Four women feen toiling in a cane-field with a man holding a whip at their backs. Dr. Cleghorn and the Author continue their walking exercife. Meet with trees of the poifonous mane chineel—alfo of the fea-grape. ' A coco-nut grove. Fof= pitality of a planter. A happy negro-yard. Mode of - wafbing linen at Barbadoes. | Barbadoes, Feb. H avine fatigued you, in my late letters, with tedious notes, concerning the flaves and their cuftoms, I feel happy to have it in my power to introduce you to the fociety of their mafters. Through the friendly me- dium of Mr. Benjamin Hinde, a merchant of great refpeCtability in Bridge-Town, we have been made known to feveral gentlemen who refide in the country, and are of im- portance in the ifland: and who, in liberal and friendly hofpitality, offer us the means of feeing the whole of Barbadoes, and of 277 witnefling the cuftoms and manners of its inhabitants. It were unneceflary to remark that this will be a great fource of gratification to me, and will, even, lead me to rejoice in the event, while I lament the caufe of our delay. | We have made a ride about four miles ‘into the’country, to dine with one of our profeffional brethren, Dr. Hinde, a man of high acquirements, and found knowledge, He was educated in England, and remained many years, in the profecution of his ftudies, at Cambridge. Until lately he employed him- felf in the pratice of medicine, at Bridge- Town ; but he has, now, in great part, retired from the fatigues of medical occupation, to engage in the more genial, and more lucrative employment of a planter. ‘To the inhabitants | of the town this is a fevere lofs; and they, juftly, lament the abfence of a man not lefs endeared to them by his private worth, and urbanity, than by his eminent profeffional talents. We very much enjoyed the ride to the - dodtor’s eftate ; which is fituated upon much ie | T3 273 higher ground than the immediate environs of Bridge-Town ; the country rifing towards the interior of the ifland, in elevated ranges of diftinG table-land. At one fpot we afcend- ed by a very fteep road, and, having reached the fummit of the declivity, there found our- {elves again upon an extenfive plain. Soon afterwards we came to another rocky preci- pice, and having mounted this, by-a path of difficult afcent, we arrived upon another, and ftill higher range of table-land. From the points of thefe fudden elevations we com- manded very extenfive and delightful views of the country below, of Bridge-Town, of the fea, and of the fhipping in Carlifle Bay. The land is cultivated in open field— hedges, walls, and all the ufual fences feem to be.unknown; nor does the eye difcover any diftinG feparation of the different eftates ; but it ranges, uninterrupted, over a wide- extended furface, richly fpread with the various productions of a tropical foil, and - pleafantly interfperfed with the manfions of the whites,and the huts of the negroes. Cot- ton, pigeon peas, and Guinea corn, conftitute 279 ‘the ereat produce of this part of the ifland. Some fields of aloes, and of plantains, were alfo feen: but. there appeared a degree of nakednefs from the want of wood, of which there is not a fufficiency to give a general . Yichnefs to the landicape, although about the great Backra-houfes there are feveral fine groves of the coco-nut and the majeftic mountain-cabbage trees. We arrived about two o'clock, having made our ride in the ftrongeft heat of the day; but from the purity and frefhnefs of the air, and from the country being more elevated, as we advanced, we felt no degree of languor or oppreffion, from a full ex- pofure to the fun. At the dodor’s houfe, in confequence of the fituation and con- firuGtion of the building, we felt it cooler than either in Bridge-Town, or Carlifle Bay. ‘The party at dinner confifted of eight ladies, and fourteen gentlemen ; the attendants were alfo numerous, yet, notwithftanding the num- ber of perfons in the room, and the many {moking difhes on the table, the fteady per- flation of the breeze kept us fufficiently cool, T 4 280 _The day pafled moft pleafantly :—all was | harmony and good clieer. The hofpitality ‘which fpread the feaft, enriched its flavor, _and the entertainment was highly graced by the urbanity and attentive politenefs of the doctor and his lady. On our way back to Bridge-Town, in the evening, we perceived the air to be, more clofe and oppreflive, and the heat greater as we defcended from each plain of table-land; fo that the dif- ference ,we felt between breathing in the town, and in the cool breeze of the country was very ftriking, and led us to felicitate the dogtor in having fo advantageoufly ex- — changed phyfic for fugar—the confined ftreets of the town for the open hills of the country.. It was the feafon of cutting the canes, and Dr. Hinde, kindly attentive to our era= tification, had contrived that the works fhould be going, in order that we might wit- nefs the method by which the faccharine juice is feparated from the canes, and after- wards prepared into fugar. We alfo vifited the diftilling houfe, and infpeéted the ap- paratus for making the rum ; hence, we had 281 this day, an opportunity of witnefling the | progreflive fteps from the cutting of the canes, to the converting of their juice into fugar -and‘rum. At fome more leifure moment, perhaps, I may note for you the whole of © the procefs. We made our excurfion in fingle-horfe chaifes, like thofe, with leather tops, ufed in | England; from which they only differ by. having the leather, at the fides and the back, made to roll up, and let down at pleafure, - for the twofold purpofe of admitting the air, and excluding the rain. We were attended by flaves as running footmen, whofe duty it was to travel as faft as we did, and to be in readinefs to hold the bridles, or ftand at the horfes’ heads, at any {pot where we might chance to alight, or to paufe. They were equal in number to our horfes, but as we were unaccultomed both to running foot- men, and to flaves, we had ftrong feelings of compun@ion refpe@ting thefe pedeftrian pa- ges; and from. feeing them run, and pant, and broil, expofed to the mid-day heat of a tropical fun, merely for our eafe and pleafure, it be- \ 282 came fo painfully annoying to us that we loft all fenfe of comfort and enjoyment: Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf, therefore, ftopped to defire that they would get up, alternately, and ride behind our chaife. Two of them, only, accepted the offer—all the others con- tinued to walk or run throughout the journey. Upon our mentioning to the gentlemen of the ifland our uneafy feelings refpecting thefe fable attendants, they fmiled at our | European tendernefs, and affured. us that fo far from it being a fatigue or hardfhip to them, they always hailed fuch an excurfion - as a holiday, and preferred it to remaining quietly at home. We could not, for an in- ftant, difpute the information; but from knowing that fuch violent exercife, under fuch exceilive heat, muft have been fatalto ourfelves, and not being enough Weft In- dians to know how very differently it af- fected the negroes, we could not regard them without fuffering ftrong feelings of mal-aife. At one f{pot, in the courfe of our ride, we had our attention arrefted by obferving 283 a party of four, almoft naked, females work- ing in a cane-field. Curiofity would not al- low us to pafs on without devoting to them a moment of particular regard. We, there~ fore, went a little off the road to approach them nearer; when we found that they were labouring with the hoe, to dig, or ' cut up the ground, preparatory to the plan- ting of fugar; and that a ftout robuft-looking man, apparently white, was following them, holding a whip at their backs. Obferving that he was the only one of the party who was idle, we inquired why he did not partake of the tafk, and were told, in reply, that it was not his bufinefs—that he had only to keep the women at work, and to make them feel the weight of the whip if they grew idle, or relaxed from their labour. | Impulfive nature fluthed at this infor- mation, and we felt fhocked and indignant, at feing a man, apparently, ftrong enough to do as much work as the whole of the four, em- ployed in the fole occupation of brandifhing ~ the whip over thefe poor degraded females, 284. Reverting to the proteCtion demanded from us, by the tender fex, we forgot for a mo- ment, all the circumftances of the country Wwe were in, and, indulging in a train of European fentiments, could not refrain from rebuking the man: and although re- fle&tion whifpered “ he is but on duty,” I confefs that I muft remain long in a land of flavery, before I can witnefs fuch a fcene, without feeling a ftrong imqulfe to take the whip from the fellow’s hand, and, lay the lath acrofs his fhoulders, until he fhall relieve the women, by, at as partaking of their toil. Notwithftanding the alarm of our Bar- badoes acquaintance, Dr. Cleghorn and my- felf continue our walks, by rambling about the fields, and the paths, in the environs of Bridge- Town, at an early hour of the morning: and, perhaps, we do not feel more fatigue than we might experience from the fame degree of exercife in Europe. We, lately, walked from 6 tog o'clock, and if you had the opportunity of con{ulting our ftately mulatto attendant, at 285 Mary Bella Green’s, you. would learn, that we exhibited no marks of a decreafed appetite at breakfaft-time. ie Near the fea we were protected from the great force of the fun by the fhade of trees whofe leaves and trunk very much re- fembled the common peartree of England, but whofe fruit was, in form, a correct like- nefs of the apple. We knew not that it was forbidden, but had enough of caution not to tafte it. However I gathered a {mall branch, bearing fruit and leaves, and put into my pocket as a {fpecimen, from which we might afcertain what tree it was. Prefently after- wards we met a negro, and upon our fhew- ing it to him, and afking its name, he, in- ftantly, exclaimed with all the impulfe of alarm, “ 4h, Maffa, dat potfon—dat no good for unhyaam—dat daamm manchineel, Maffa.” — Finding that I had foftered a ferpent, I di. rely threw away every leaf, and ‘every apple; but I difcovered that, like other infidious foes, manchineel had quickly dif- fufed its poifon, and I afterwards {marted ’ for my curiofity. Either my handkerchief, 286 or my gloves had imbibed the offenfive par- ticles and from having incautioufly ufed them, my lips and face burnt for many hours after, with all the fcorchings of cantharidiftical acri- mony ; alfo from their having reached the tongue and fauces | was brought into a copious falivation,- and, throughout the morning, my mouth and throat were much fwelled, and throbbed with fiery heat. Near the fea we faw likewife fome other trees, bearing. a fruit very like grapes,—but experience of the manchineel made us cau- tious in gathering further fpecimens of tro- pical produGtion. Some negroes whom we met informed us that they were called fea- grapes, and were ufed asfruit: upon which we ventured to gather a few of them, and found that they were of pleafant flavor, In the courfe of the fame walk we met with a fine avenue of coco-nut trees, bordered with the aloe and the plantain. This was not to be refifted. We could not forego the pleafure of exploring the extent of this de- lightful fhade, and, therefore, proceeded to | its utmoft depth, when we found that it led to ego a gentleman’s houfe; from which, as we approached, the lord of the manfion came - out to bid us welcome, and to tender us the civilities of hofpitality. We accepted the very grateful refrefhment of a fine fhaddock, pulled frefh from the tree, and the gentle- | man, kindly, conducted us to the plantain ground, the negro yard, and different. parts of the houfe and eftate. We had, before, feen many negro huts, fome fhaded by the fea-grape, fome theltered by the broad and balmy leaf of the plantain, _ fome protected by the umbrageous coco-nut, and fome ftanding amidft the open fields, expofed to the full ardor of the fun; but all thefe were of a mean order, ftrageling, and difperfed, and bearing no kind of refemblance to the colle€tive abode, conftruéted for the _ flaves of this eftate. It is common at the plantations to allot a fmall piece of ground, at a fhort diftance from the houfe, tothe ufe of the negroes, and this is called the negro-yard. Here the flaves 238 are allowed to build hoabsiien fmall huts to live in, but they are, commonly, of very coarfe conftruction, and are dark, clofe, and imoky. At the eftate I now fpeak of, a circular piece of ground had been appropriated as the negro- yard, but infiead of the flaves being left to conftru& their own habitations, fixteen: very neat and uniform cabins have been erected of wood, arid well roofed with thin- | gles*. Placed in eight divifions they form a hollow octagon, a free opening being left for the breeze at one end of each hut.- In the centre of the odtagon is built a common kitchen, which ferves for all the fixteen families. The huts are neat, and the whole premifes wear an air of order, and of cleanlinefs, not common to the abode of flaves. | We contemplated this fpot with much fatisfaGtion, and were gratified in obferving the high degree of attention, which was here given to the comfort and accommodation _ of the negroes ; who had little caufe to lament ' * Wooden tiles. 289 their removal from the wild woods of an oppofite fhore; and could as little defire to change their prefent lot for the high-rated freedom of European paupers. This happy negro-yard forms, as it were, a ‘little villace of fixteen families, all of whom may affemble, each evening, after the labour of the day, to join in the merry . dance, or to {moke and fing together, free from every care. No thought have they how to provide for their infants, or their aged parents —nor have they to feek either food, habitation, or apparel. "To each family is allotted a fe- parate, and to all a common home; the necef- fary food and clothing are iffued to them ; and they know none of the anxiouscares or difficul- ties of the world. No fearful concern, nor ha- rafling incumbrance can arife to them on ac- count of their offspring, who, like themfelves, _ are furnifhed with all that is needful ; and thofe who have moft children find themfelves moft ‘valued and efteemed. In ficknefs, medical: attendance is provided for them, and what- ever is neceflary is adminiftered, without — thought or anxiety, on their own behalf, VOL. I. U 290 | Thus are they guarded, at every avenue, - againft the approach of want and care. Six days labour is demanded from them in the week ; but the fabbath is given them as a day of reft and relaxation ; aad, from the total ab-- - fence of care, it is ufually fpent in unbounded mirth and fefivity.” Tar. +h n Ta the courfe of our walks we have met with another wathing party, and as you de- fire to know all that occurs, whether of much or little importance, I may tell you that, in this operation of cleaning, our linen is here | beaten and rubbed, and {crubbed to pieces in a moft unmerciful manner, and, after all, with- out being made, even, tolerably clean: The following is the procefs employed ; the linen is firft put into a tub, and rubbed through fome water, then it is taken out and fprinkled with fand, previous to being preffed. and beaten with a piece of wood, upon a coarfe large ftone, by the fide of the river; after which it is rubbed out in the open ftream. Next it is fprinkled with the fine white fand of the fhore, and fpread out by the fea to - 201 whiten; then it receives another dipping in water, and, finally, is rinced out in the run- ning ftream of the river. From the rough treatment it undergoes, it feldom comes home without being torn into various rents and holes. The demand made for this rude cleaning is a dit for each piece, without any regard to its fize, or the labour required. A dozen fhirts are wathed for fawelve bits, OY, according to our coin, for twelve fixpences, and for the wafhing of a dozen pocket- handkerchiefs we pay the fame, 292 LETTER XXV. Author and his comrades make an excurfion to Col. Wil- liams’s. Cuftom of riding with a fugar cane. Soil of Barbadoes. Pitturefque feenery of the diftritt called Scat land. ‘* Sweet fhades” of Turner’s-hall wood. Botling or inflammable fpring. Barbadoes-Tar. Lemons left to fall under the trees, like crabs. Mountain cabbage= tree. View from Mount Hilloughby. A “ vunaway effate.” A golden orchard. A © fecial rock.” Cray Jy foup, and Centurian Oranges. Evening ride to Bridge- Lown. Running flaves the only alloy to a moft delightful excurfion. Belfaft tranfport captured by the enemy. Trees, plants, and fruits, of Barbadoes. Remarks concerning the cultivation and flavor of pines. iN Barbadoes, Feb. We have aude another very delightful. ex- -eurfion, and find this little ifland more inter- efting and picturefque than my pen can tell you. Being invited to form a party to the’ plantation of Col. Williams, and to go very early, in order that we might extend our ride to fome of the moft, beautiful fpots of the ifland, before dinner, Cleghorn, Mafter, and ~ = ae 293 myfelf rofe very early, and left the fhip at gs oclock. On arriving at Bridge Town we found flaves, horfes and every neceflary, for the excurfion, provided by the friendly atten- tion of Mr. B. Hinde, under whofe guidance we placed ourfelves for the journey. We went to the houfe of his brother before breakfaft, where we found the table fpread, and the dogtor waiting to receive us, and prepared to join the party; as was alfo ~ Mr. Abel Hinde, another of his brothers, — After amply fatisfying our morning appetites, we proceeded towards Col. Williams’s, which is fome miles-further in the country. The fun had become more powerful than we had felt it on our way from Bridge-Town to the doc- ’ tor’s; but we gradually afcended to higher Jand, and coming into a mountainous part _ of the country, we foundthesbreeze fufficientl y ftrong to prevent all fenfe of languor or op- preffion. A little before we reached the abode of Col. Williams, we paffed through a. field where a large gang of negroes was employed U3 294 in cutting canes. This proveda feafonable te- frefhment to us, for we had grown thirfty, and were glad to adopt the Barbadoes cuftom of giving our whips to the flaves, and taking -fugar canes to ride with—fucking one end to quench our thirft, while we beat on our horfes with the other. Thus equipped, we prefently arrived at the dwelling of the owner of the canes, faluting him with the ftaffs of fugar in our hands, which we had juft taken from his field. He greeted us very cordially, invited us to alight, and, perceiving that fome of us were ftrangers, conduéted us to the works, to fhew us the procefs of making the fugar. While looking at the fugar-works, we were joined by Col. Williams, who had rode out thus far, to meet us; and our party being now complete, we proceeded to a moft romantic and beautiful part of the ifland, called Scotland. — Near Bridge-Town we obferved that the ~ foil was of rich black-earth, but not of oreat depth, being in many places only thinly fpread upon calcareous rocks, which are formed o 295. moftly of madripores. Further in the coun- try the earth is of a reddifh caft, and evidently argillaceous. ‘This is broken, by cultivation, into fine mould; and the foil is deeper, though lefs rich, than that near to the Town. © In fome divifions of the part of the country called Scotland the land is white; and pieces of earth have, here, been found fo hardened as to bear the knife or chiffel, andit has been poflible to mark, or write with them, as with chalk; and hence one fpot has been denominated chalk-eftate : but the name is founded in error, for the foil is not calcareous: it is argillaceous, and being har- dened by the evaporation of its aqueous parts, the earth is rendered white by expofure to the weather. The diftri@ of Scotland comprehends the whole of the parifh of St. Andrew, and part of two other parifhes— the tutelar faint contributing in larger pro- portion than both the others. This part of the ifland is uncommonly _ picturefque, and comprehends a very grand and interefting variety of {cenery. With the U4 «: 206 rude ftupendous irregularity, and the dark fhades of the Alps, and the romantic wild- nefs of the mountains of Wales or Scot-. land, it combines the gentle but lively variety of the foft and flowing furface of England : and, together with thefe, it offers wide views of the encircling ocean, the fhipping at fea and in the harbour, and all the rich luxuriance of tropical vegetation. . The particular {pot from whence this part of the ifland would feem to have deriv- ed its name, is raifed in rugged cliffs, and broken uncultivated fummits, forming a rude contrat to the high fertility of the. vallies, and the bottoms of the hills. Neighbouring mountains, yet more lofty than thefe barren * cliffs, tower around, clothed with rich ver- dure ; and the great variety of the fcene is further increafed by the umbrageous foliage and diverfified tints of Turner’s-hall wood, —the moft extenfive, and the oldeft foreft in the ifland. | After being long expofed to the fcorch= ing fun, in contemplating the many beauties 207 . of this fweet neighbourhood, we paffed over rough and rugged roads, along crooked nar- row paths, up fteep mountains, and down rapid defcents, into the deep gloom of the foreft ; where the change of fcene was no lefs ftriking, than the coolnefs of the temperature | was refrefhing and grateful. Literally might | thefe be called fweet foades, for they not only _ offered the prote€tion we courted, but like- wife contributed the refrethment of oranges - and lemons to quench our thirft, and further regaled us with the fragrance of odoriferous - fhrubs and plants. » % 4 Nor was this all, for the cool retreats of the foreft miniftered ftill more bountifully to the pleafures of this charming excurfion ; which was equally: calculated to amufe the traveller, and to gratify the naturalift, and the philofopher. Faftidious, indeed, muft he have been,—nor would you, my friend, have envied him the apathy of his feelings, who could not be amufed, nor find fubjedts for _ his contemplation in fuch a tour. No fuch travellers were of our party—all were amufed —all delighted and gratified. We, who were 298 firangers dwelt on every fcene with rapture ; and our kind friends, to whom the whole ~ was familiar, exprefied new delight in ad- miniftering, fo amply, to our gratification. The cool fhelter of the foreft was derived from the mountain-cabbage, from large ce- — dars, and from others of the oldeft and ° fineft trees of the ifland. Amidft thefe fhades we defcended to a narrow gully, between two mountains, to fee one of the great curiofities—one of the reported phenomena of Barbadoes—“ a boiling {pring !” On ap- _ proaching the fpot, we came to a {mall hut in which was living an old black woman, who employed herfelf as a guide to exhibit, under a kind of necromantic procefs, all the details of this boiling and burning fountain. The old dame, bearing in her hand alighted ta- per, and taking with her an empty calabath, and all the other neceflary apparatus of her office, led the way from the hut down to the {pring. In a fill, and moft fecluded fituation, we came to a hole, or {mall pit filled with water, which ~ was bubbling up in boiling motion, and pour- | _ing, from its receptacle, down a narrow chan- 299 nel of the gully. - Here our fable forcerefs, in all the filene and folemnity of magic, placing the light at her fide, fell down upon her knees, and, with her calabafh, emptied all the water out of the hole, then, immerfing the taper in the deep void, the fuddenly fet the whole pit in a flame; when the inftantly jumped upon her legs, and looked fignificantly round, as if anxious to catch the furprife ex- prefled upon our countenances, from the workings of her witchcraft. The taper being removed, the empty fpace continued to burn with a foft lambent flame, without the ap- pearance of any thing to fupport the com- buftion. We obferved frefh water flowly diftilling into the pit, from the earth at its fides, and dropping to the bottom; and as this increafed in quantity, it raifed the flame higher and higher in the pit, fupporting it upon its furface, and conveying the ap- pearance of the water itfelf being on fire ; although it was very clear and pure, and not — {pread with any oily or bituminous matter. When the water had rifen to a certain height, the flame became feeble, then gradually de- clined, and prefently was extina. The ' 200 - water was now feen to boil and bubble as be. fore, and, foon overfiowing the pit, refumed f its courfe down the narrow channel of the gully, and all was reftored to the flate in which we had found it, You will, before this, have difcovered “that the water was cold, and that the boiling and burning of this fiery deep was only the effeG@ of inflammable gas, which, efcaping from the bowels of the earth, and rifing from the bottom of the pit, fupported the flame when it was empty, and, bubbling through it, when it was filled with water, gave it the | appearance of a boiling fpring. During the | combuftion, the {mell of the inflammable air was very powerful. In the ftones and foil, ‘in the very rocks and roads, we traced the origin of this pheno- menon of nature. Afphaltic produ@ions abounded on every quarter: and, upon inquiry, we found that we were in the very part of the country which produces the celebrated - Barbadoes tar; the {mell of which faluted us . as we rode along ; and we even faw it diftil- 301 ling from the hills of hardened clay, and like- wife iffuing from the rocks at the fides of the road. The argillaceous foil of this neigh- bourhood is every where ftrongly impreg- nated with bitumen, in which you will rea- dily perceive the origin of the “ boiling, or inflammable fpring.” | _- We were next conducted to feveral fpots, amidft the rough and wocded moun- tains, where we faw the tar iffuing copioufly into pits from the earth, and witneffed the mode of colleéting it. So plentiful is it in this part of the countr y, that it may be procured from any hole dug deep enough to contain water; for when {mall openings are made in the earth, and water has flowed into them, the petroleum exuding from around accumulates and floats in a thick coat upon the furface. The mode of colle&ting at is by laying the palm of the hand flat upon the water, and then feraping off the tar, which adheres to it, upon the edge of a bafonor a calabafh, repeating the dipping and f{craping until the furface of the water is entirely cleared of its bituminous coating, After a 302 few days the water is again covered, and more of the tar may be collected in a fimiilar manner. To reach thefe pits of tar we were ob= liged to {cramble, on foot, through deep and mountainous woods, and by way of narrow rugged paths; leaving our flaves and horfes to go round and meet us at a diftant fpot below. Near the pits were growing great numbers of lemon trees, whofe fruit, like the erabs of the Englith hedges, having fallen from its branches, lay in n heals unheeded, under the trees. In the part of the wood where we faw the inflammable fpring were great numbers. of mountain cabbage trees, which were faid to be of a peculiar kind, and different from all others in the ifland. This magnificent palm is unqueftionably the fineft tree that grows. From words, or drawings, you can only colle& an imperfect idea of it. To comprehend its fine fymmetry, its grandeur, and majeftic loftinefs, it muft be feen. Its trunk is very {mooth, and almoft regularly . 303. _eylindrical, rifing into a fuperb and ftately pillar, refembling a well-hewn column of ‘ftone. At the bafe its circumference is fome- what greater than at any other part, yet. leflening fo sradually, upwards, as to preferve the moft juft and accurate proportion. Not a fingle branch, nor even the flighteft twig,. interrupts the seneral harmony of the trunk, which often rifes, in a correct perpendicular, to the height of from fixty to a hundred feet, — and then fpreads its palmated foliage into a wide and beautifully radiated circle. Branches — it has none, but the fine expanfive leaves, fhooting immediately from the fummit of the ftately trunk, extend around it, crowning, and, as it were, proteCting the maffy column, in form of a full expanded umbrella. It will perhaps occur to you that our noble Englifh oak, with all its rude and crooked limbs, muft be a more piturefque objet. So it is, and fo is likewife the wide- fpreading filk-cotton: but the loftinefs, the ftately grandeur, the exact proportion, and the deep-fhading foliage of the mountain= cabbage are unequalled, and, in their happy 304 combination, crown this tree the king 5 sl the foreft—the moft exalted of the ya a world. = ee # When planted in avenues, it forms a grand and impofing approach to a dwelling, | conveying an air of greatnefs to the manfion itadorns. It grows, free fromdecay, toa very old age, but cannot be converted to the ufe- ful purpofes of timber. It is a tree of ftate, calculated to enrich, and augment the magni- ficence of a palace: nor let it detrat from its majeftic qualities to know that, after all, it is but -----a cabbage tree! Its loftieft fum- mit is a fpiral fucculent fhoot, the fides of which, by gradually and fucceflively unfold- ing, form the fine wide-fpreading foliage. Before this opens, to expand itfelf around, it. is acongeries of young and tender leaves, and | is often boiled and brought to table as a cab- bage, of which itis the very beft kind I ever remember to -have tafted. It is alfo ufed, without boiling, by way of fallad, and is then eaten with oil and vinegar; and fo highly is it efteemed for thefe. culinary purpofes, 7 that, too often, a very fine tree has been de-_ | Soe | voted to the axe, merely becaufe no other means could be found, of obtaining, from its towering fummit, this moft excellent cabbage. _ The variety of this tree found near the in- flammable {fpring, differsonlyin havingits thick tuft of fibrous roots appear feveral feet out of the ground, looking as if the tree, inftead _ of taking root in the earth, was growing upon another fhort trunk placed under it, as a bafe ‘or pedeftal, to fupport it from the foil: a cir- cumftance which would feem to have arifen from thefe trees growing upon the fide of a _ hill, and the earth being partially wafhed from their roots by heavy rains. “In all other refpects they are the fame as the reft of their {pecies. | After viewing the beauties of Scotland, and feeing the inflammable fpring, and the tar pits, we next went to Mount Hilloughby, and. _afcended the higheft point of land in the ifland; and, from what I have faid of the beauties of the part called Scotland, you will believe that the profpe@t from Hilloughby’s’ fummit muft be grand and delighting indeed. — TOL. I. X 306 | The whole ifland, enced by the Atlan- tic ocean, was under the eye, difplaying a fcene which comprehended all the variety of Jand and fea, of hill and vale, of rude nature and high cultivation. On one hand were barren rugged rocks—on the other rich and fertile plains. ‘Towns, houfes, huts, and fu-_ gar-works were feen diftributed about the ifland; bays and rivulets were before. us opening into the fea; a large fleet appeared at anchor, with its foreft of mafts intermixed amidft the buildings of the town ; multitudes of fhips and boats were failing in all direc- ‘tions round the coaft ; and the folemn forefts and painted groves difplayed all the rich fo- © liage of tropical vegetation. To form fuch a picture would defeat the genius of aClaude, or defy the bold pencil of a Salvator Rofa. It was alfo further enhanced, by the circum- ftances under which we faw it s' the bright tropical fun being, fuddenly, overcaft by a heavy black cloud ; which, ftealing along the mountain tops, fo varied the fhades and tints as to give additional effet to all the beauties of the fcene: but while we were devoutly contemplating it, this cloud broke upon us in. ood all the violence of a pelting ftorm, and drove us to feek fhelterin a neighbouring cottage. Amidft the variety comprifed in the view from Hilloughby hill I muft not forget to mention that we faw what is here termed the “ runaway eftate”—which is a territory of many acres of fine and rich foil, fo called from having been removed, at various times, to a confiderable diftance, by heavy torrents of rain, or fudden ruptures of the earth. It is -faid not to be an unfrequent occurrence, in this ifland, for a large tract of land thus to ~affume a change of place; many examples of which are to be feen in the parifhes of St. Andrew and St. Jofeph. Large trecs, plan- tains, fugar canes, and different crops ‘of - growing produce have been removed with their foil, and have continued to thrive in their new fituation, as well as if they had remained undifturbed, A very fingular change of crop, and of foil, is faid to have happened at the eftate of a Mr. Fofter, where a large portion of land, in the pofleffion of a poor tenant near’ the ae : | 308 coalt, fuddenly journied into the fea; and, while the unhappy man was bewailing the lofs, not only of his crop, but likewife of the territory on which it was growing, the land of his neighbour, Mr. Fofter, travelled to the fpot, and brought to him a crop of canes, which continued to grow quite as well as before they took their journey. On cur approach to Col. Williams’s, we were led into a fine valley of fruits, which offered us the moft grateful refrefh- ment that could have prefented itfelf. We had been long riding in exceflive heat, and - were parching with thirft ; when the Colonel, without previoufly announcing it, conduéted us to the point of a hill from which we fudden- ly viewed a rich and golden orchard below. Flevated as we were above the narrow gul-. ly in which the fruits were rowing, our fituation feemed in a degree vexatious and tantalizing—but the Colonel only tempted us, to augment our gratification, for we quickly defcended, by a fteep and confined path, into the midft of this region of {fweets 3 - where, had the fruit been prohibited as the Boo fatal apple of our firft parent, it had been {carcely poffible we could have refitted the de- fire- - - of tafting | Such grateful—{uch delici- ous refrefhment never before had met our lips ! The oranges were not only ¢en times better than the very beft in the world ; but they were ta- | ‘ken freth from the tree, and at a moment of heat and parching thirft which was calculated to render them fen thoufand times {weeter then the f{weeteft of themfelves! But with- out any hyperbolical flavor, they were, really, and in plain fact, very fuperior to any oranges I had ever tafted. We gathered and con- fumed them in dozens, and, after having moft oratefully allayed our burning thirft, we pro- ceeded to explorethe extent, andthe many ex- quifite produtions of this bounteous orchard, by whofe delicious fruit, and fragrant odour, three of our fenfes had been fo fumptuoufly regaled: indeed I may fay four, for, like Buffon’s automaton upon gaining his ex- iftence, we gathered, and experienced a new fenfe of delight - - - - from feeling the fruit. ~The orchard is planted in a narrow gully between two hills, and is nearly half a | x3 210 “mile in length. It abounds in the various fpecies of the orange tribe—oranges, fhad- docks, limes, lemons, and forbidden fruit hanging in the moft inviting profufion. ‘The banana, the plantain, and divers other fruits ate likewife plenteoufly intermixed. It is the employment of two negroes conftanly to attend the orchard and prote& the fruit. "The oranges we moft enjoyed, and which were efteemed the beft in the colony, were from a tree nearly a hundred years old, . and the largeft upon the ifland. They were {mall, but of moft exquifite flavor. I have formerly enjoyed oranges even in England, and have always held them a fine fruit; but after tafting the incomparable produce of the venerable centurian branch, I fear thofe to. be met with in Britain will be infipid indeed. __ If you don’t feel a with for tropical thirft, and fome oranges from the Colonel’s old tree, you ought never to know the true flavor of fruit! _ Having made a moft delicious repaft in — the fweet fhaded valley, we again mount- ed our horfes, and, after a fhort ride, arrived — Ry at Col, Williams’s houfe. Here we enjoyed the refrefhment of cold water and a change of linen, and having taken a little time to reft ourfelves, proceeded in great comfort to eat our dinners in the open air under the ** focial rock.” Defcending from the houfe by afteep path, we came into the valley, a fhort diftance from the orchard, and pafled under a large open arch of a rock, which formed the grand entrance to a fuite. of natural and romantic apartments. A little further in the gully we came to an excavation called the drawing-room ; and, beyond this, under a ftupendous and impending part of the rock, we found a {mooth and level {pot call- ed the dining-room, which is fufficiently {fpacious to accommodate a hundred people: Here was placed the hofpitable board, which - is often and liberally fpread by the friendly Colonel ; and in this fequeftered fhade were - affembled chairs, benches, wine, punch, fruit, and all that could contribute to the eafe and comfort of wearied travellers. But, in truth, we were not of this clafs ; for the gra- tification and high mental delight we had experienced, had prevented all fenfe of x 4 ae bodily fatigue from our long and fcorching | ride. | mee We drank a glafs of punch, and explored the deep caverns and various receffes of this rocky retreat before the dinner was ferved. About four o’clock we took our feats at table, : having been in almoft conftant exercife from fivein the morning. A hanging rock of ma- dripores fhaded us above and behind ; and, in the front, we had the breeze of the valley foftly breaking its way to us through a plantation of bamboos and fragrant limes, while, immedi- ately before us, {moking viands, rich wines, and delicious fruits crowned the board. Having endeavoured to provoke your thirft for the | oranges of the valley, I might further urge your appetite in queft of the cray-fith foup of the “ focial rock,’ for I do not know. that I ever tafted any difh fo rich, or of fuch exquifite flavor. But tell not this to our friend - - - - - the newly eleGted alderman, un- lefs he can fpare time for a trip to Barbadoes ; where he might. feel compenfated for the voyage, by feafting upon cray-fith foup, and centurian oranges under the “ focial rock ;” 313 or, if thefe fhould not fuffice, I might enfure him an ample reward for his journey, in the _ fociety: of the hofpitable friends with whom ‘we partook the feaft. In the evening the Colonel loaded us home with fruits from the orchard; but the party did not feparate until our kind friends had planned for us a ftill more extenfive ma- rooning excurfion ; to which I need {carcely fay we gave our moft cordial confent. Ourre- turn to Bridge-Town was peculiarly pleafant : the moon fhone bright: the heat was mo- derate, and we had quite the agreeable ride of an Englith fummer evening. The diftance is about eight miles, and as we defcended from the higher to the lower land the air be- came perceptibly clofer, until, at the town, the breeze feemed to defert us, and we, no longer, felt the cool perflation, which had been fo grateful to us in the more elevated parts of the ifland. Never, perhaps, did a long and inter- efting day pafs more pleafantly; nor was hofpitality ever evinced with more friendly 314 urbanity. No attention was forgotten to ren- der every thing comfortable and ‘agreeable io Ws: a0. care. was ont ee promote or forward our gratification. It feemed the ob- je& of all to offer us every poffible accom- modation, and to bring us acquainted, in the happieft manner, with the country and its inhabitants. We felt infinitely lefs of fatigue _ than might have been expected, from the great diftance we had journied, and from the length of time we were expofed to heat, and exercife ; and the only alloy which in any degree interrupted our enjoyment, through- out this grateful day, was a fenfe of fuffering, of which we could not wholly diveft ourfelves concerning the poor flaves, who had to fup- port, on foot, the very fame journey which, in us, was regarded as a furprizing exertion on horfeback. ) In the courfe of the day we repeatedly © made compaffionate appeals to the gen- tlemen of the ifland concerning them, but they as conftantly affured us that our pity was mifplaced, adding that they were ac- — cuftomed tothe exercife, and would fuffer 315 far lefs fatigue than ourfelves. Still our Eu- ropean feelings forced upon us the with that either they had been accommodated with mules, or we had difpenfed with their at- tendance; and it will require a much longer refidence, amidft this new order of things, before we fhall be able to perfuade ourfelves that our fenfe of difquietude was only a mifplaced humanity. Upon reaching the Lord Sheffield we experienced fome diminution of our plea- furable feelings, by hearing that the Belfaft tranfport, with troops, was taken and carried into Guadalope; which intelligence had been brought by the captain of an American fhip, who had been detained by the captors while they removed the prifoners. I fhould have told you that in the courfe of our long ride we had the opportunity of feeing a very extenfive variety of the vegeta- ble productions of the tropical world; and that we met with multitudes of trees, fhrubs, and plants, that were not before familiar to us—and many which were wholly new 316 to our obfervation. Among ‘thofe which moft attracted cur attention were the pi- mento, wild cinnamon, ginger, caffia, caflada, banana, plantain, tamarind, cafhew apple, mango, fapadillo, papaw, mammee, fourfop, goava, grenadillo, water lemon, oranges, limes, lemons, fhaddock, forbidden fruit, the aloe, logwood, mahogany, cedar, and lig- num vite. The great ftaple produétions of the Weft Indies,—fugar, cotton, and coffee, were alfo brought frequently before the eye, during this interefting excurfion. — It appeared to us fomewhat remarkable that, in thewhole extent of our tour, we fhould not have feen any pines growing, except at one fpot near Hilloughby hill, where they were re- gularly planted as the crop of part of a fugar field. Thefruit was not ripe; and therefore we had no opportunity of comparingits flavor with that of the pines of our Englith hot-houfes ; and, confequently, none of judging whether the cultivation of this plant is one of thofe circumftances, as fome have aflerted, in which art has been made to rival , or even to furpafs the works of nature. Improbable as this gt7 would feem, upon a firft view of the great perfeGtion of nature’s productions, ftill a further confideration renders it more than poffible ; for, if animals can be improved by culture; if the apple and the cabbage can be rendered more ufeful, the pink and the tulip more beautiful, by the hand of man ; and, if the powers of our organs of vifion can be en- larged by his refearches in the fcience of optics ; what is there that fhall prevent him from enriching the flavor of a tropical fruit, in atemperate climate? It would feem, in- deed, to require only an accurate and fteady attention to the laws, and operations of na- ture herfelf—not with a view to oppofe or diftort the beautiful harmony of her works— but to profit of the great leffon the fo li- berally difplays, by direGting, towards the one great object of our care, thofe means which fhe is bufied in fupplying to all. Her boun- ty is not confined to one plant, or one animal, but is unlimited as the univerfe. It belongs to her not only to fofter the fragrant pine and the honied cane, but with equal care, to” give pungency to eaplicuny and bitternefs to the aloe. 318 If the growth and flavor of a pine de- pend upon a certain degree of heat and light, with a due proportion of air and moifture— all thefe we have in England; and, from careful obfervation, we may enable ourfelves to fupply to this, or any other particular plant, the neceflary quantum of thefe ele- ments with a more undeviating certainty, than will commonly be done by nature; fhe having to difpenfe her means, not to one root alone, but to all creation. The particular degree of moifture neceflary for the pine might injure the neighbouring coffee—the appropriate quantity of air, might not be the exa@t proportion required by the cotton—or the precife ratio of light and heat might differ from that demanded by the fugar cane! But where man commands the difpofal he may. dire&t the elements, in due degree, to his exoti¢ nurfling, and, avoiding the irregularities of the natural climate, may learn to cultivate, and to improve, at home, what nature never gave to his native foil. : - What a leffon of induftry is here taught us, my friend ! How flattering is this fact to the 319 progreflive powers of our fpecies; and how {ftrongly does it invite to their expanfion! How immenfe, how boundlefs is the field which it opens to new gratification and en- joyment in the government of the vegetable world: and how feducingly does it invite us to the exercife of thofe talents, which all- bountiful nature hath fo liberally beftowed on man! But the fubje& would lead me be- yond the limits of a letter, however delight- ful, therefore, I muft not purfue it here. 320 LETTER XXVI. Convoys and packet frill delayed. Single veffels arrive. Tranf= ports taken by the enemy. Inhabitants anxious to have the treops employed. Sailors defert from the Lord Shef- field. Alarm concerning a boat's crew. Oars employed as fails. Negroes in flave fbips taught to be ufeful. Captains of Guineamen walk on fhore with parties of the feip’s cargo. Book-binding not among the trades of Barbadoes. Preparations for an excurfion to Hackleton’s cliff. The church at Bridge-Town. . The Jignal-code. Barbadoes, Feb. Wee fill remain without any accurate in- telligence refpeting the great body of our convoy: and, having no tidings of the com- mander in chief, we continue in equal uncer- tainty when we may proceed to our original deftination, at St. Domingo. All here is fuf- -penfe and anxiety. The folicitude of the mercantile world is not lefs than that of the military. No packet is arrived ; the affairs of commerce are interrupted ; we have no news of Europe or the war, and all feems fhut in ignorance, or abforbed in painful uncertainty. Strageling veflels of cur difaftrous fleet eon- ~ 324 ) ‘Ainue to arrive ; and, from thefe, we catch with eagernefs, every report, but ftill with- out acquiring any thing fatisfactory. Some feparated on one day; fome another; and fome another: but with refpedt to the a€tual fate of the convoy all is {till enveloped in ‘doubt and incertitude. Moft unhappily our difappointment and our regrets aré further augmented by the painful intelligence of frequent captures be- ing made by the enemy’s privateers. From the veflels coming out, in this difperfed and divided manner, the cruifers, from Guada- lope, are but too fuccefsful, in picking up numbers of our unarmed, and unprotected tran{ports. — | | _A thip which arrived this day reports that the parted from the Admiral and a hun- dred fail of the convoy, on the feventh of January, in latitude 45, longitude 17. This ‘is received, by fome, as favorable intelligence, it feeming to firengthen the hope that the fleet has not Been under the neceility of again putting back to Cork, or Spithead. But it is now fo long fince, the feventh VOL. J. X¥ 222 of January, and we have known in the interval fuch violent,—fuch repeated and long continued gales, that, to many of us, this news is equally unfatisfattory as all we had heard before. So little does it meet our hopes, that we have ftill many apprehenfions left the majority of the convoy,may have been obliged to return to Ireland or to En- eland. Between five and fix thoufand troops have reached Barbadoes in the fhips already arrived, and the inhabitants of the Iflands exprefs fad regret and impatience at fee-. ing fuch a body of men remain fo long unemployed. Looking to the fpot moft in danger, or concerning which. they feel - a more immediate intereft, they with that to be made fecure, forgetful, that were the troops to be divided as they might with, and detached on different fervices, before the ar- rival of the commander in chief, with the remainder of the armament, the great object” of the expedition might, thereby, be al- _ together sai ave ei Unhappily die fineft feafon is paffing | away---and before the whole army can have™ -atrived, and be brought:into adtion, the rainy 323 period will be faft approaching ; but, as many of the men already here-are in a fickly flate, we hope the delay may prove beneficial to them, by affording them an opportunity of reco- vering from the ills of the voyage, and of their long confinement on board, before they enter upon the fatigues of the campaign. ‘They are daily taken on fhore to relieve them © from the clofe atmofphere of the tranfports; and, from being regularly exercifed, they will have the advantage of becoming, in fome degree, acclimates previous to being ordered upon actual fervice. A report is current here that the Spanitfh part of the ifland of St. Domingo has refufed to fubmit to the French; and that the go- vernor has fent down to. Jamaica to demand protection from the Englith. If fuch be the fact, it leads to additional regret refpefting the unfortunate delays of this powerful ar- mament: a very confiderable part of which is f{uppofed to be deftined for St. Domingo. We learn from our captain that an _ alarming defertion is taking place. among the failors of his fhip. Six have already ab- sige’ 324 feonded, and the number of our crew is fé» duced to fourteen. ' This intelligence makes us apprehenfive left, by the time we fail for St. Domingo, we may not have enough hands to work the fhip. But we are confoled in the recollection that the friendly trades will be dire&@ly in our favor; and that we cannot require fo ftrong a fhip’s company as amidit the terrific, and adverfe gales which ite long belet us on our paflage hither. A fad alarm has {pread th roughout the harbour, and we have been all in vivid and anxious concern, refpecting the fate of twelve men who went out ina flat-bot- tomed boat to confign to the deep bofom of the ocean, the body of a deceafed fhip- mate. Defirous not to throw over the corpfe within the harbour, where it would be inftantly devoured by the numerous fharks which infeft the bay, and which we - fee almoft daily ftealing round the veffels in fearch of prey, they rowed fo far out to fea as to be unable to pull back again ; and the tide being againft them, their heavy boat, not- withftanding all their efforts to row her -into the harbour, was fet adrift, and earried 325 out into the wide Atlantic, with all hands on board. The captain finding it long before his men returned, grew very apprehenfive regarding their fafety. A general alarm fpread throughout the bay; and extending likewife to the fhore, multitudes foon co- vered the beach, while the fhrouds, and yards of the fhips, were thronged with an- xious crowds looking out for the funeral party. No boat appeared, and the fears refpect- ing the perilous fituation of the party becom= ing univerfal, two f{chooners were difpatched in fearch of them. Happily the weather and the waves were moderate, or the whole had certainly been loft, for the boat was found adrift at open fea! Fortunately all the men were in her, and were brought back in fafety to the harbour, exprefling themfelves very thankful for their unexpected deliverance from the jaws of hungry ocean, .A ftrong contraft, to the dangerous fitu- ation of thefe poor men, was offered in the repofe of fome other boats’ crews, whom we ’ perceived fitting at reft in their boats, and fail- ing about the harbour by means of their —Qars 5 a cuftom which we find to be common ¥3 326 here; for we often fee parties of negroes, boatmen, and failors, {cud indolently about ithe bay, employing their oars by way of fails. - They fix the handles of them at the bottom © of the boat, and fetting them up, two on each fide, with the flat furface to the wind, colle& a fuficiency of the breezeto carry the boat along without the trouble of rowing. The captains of the Guineamen often re- lieve their fhips’ company from the duty of _ the boat, by training fome of their black carga to the ufe of the oar.—Indeed fo ufeful do many of the negroes become, during the pallage, and the time they are detained on board, that their affiftance is of much fervice — in working the veffel. We occafionally fee the mafter of a flave fhip rowed afhore by four of his naked Africans, who appear as dexterous, in the management of the boat, as if they had been for years accuftomed to it, Often we obferve the captains’ parading the flreets, accompanied by parties of their prime flaves—apparently with the intention ~ of exhibiting them to the eye of the public, in found flate and ggod cendition, This ’ r 327 contributes, at the fame time, to the health and amufement of thefe poor beings, who feem delighted at feeling their feet on fhore, and, in due obedience to their captain, dance and frolic as they go along, either in real, or in well diflembled contentment and happi- nefs. I made a vifit on fhore this morning in the intention of leaving fome books to be bound, which, you will remember, [ brought out, in fheets, from the printer ; but you will be furprifed to learn that no fuch perfon as a book-binder could be found in Barbadoes. We called on Mr. Hinde, and were informed that, by the affiftance of his friends Mefirs. Jordan and Maxwell, he had provided horfes for our intended “* Marooning party’ to Hac- -kleton’s Cliff, and the northern coaft of the ifland; when, upon our apologizing for be~ ing fo troublefome to him, and his friends, and obferving that we had fent our fervants to hire horfes for the journey, he replied that no apologies could be neceflary, for it would be “ quite inconfiftent with Barbadoes’ to fuffer ftrangers to have the trouble of pro- curing horfes, or of feeking, for themfelves, Yass it 528 the accommodations of a ‘country excur- fion.” | Mr. Hinde accompanied us. in our walk to different parts of the town, and to fee the: church, which is a plain and neat edifice, built much upon the plan of Greenwich chapel; the interior is fitted up with enclofed — feats of cedar, regularly confiruéted in the modern ftyle. It is alfo furnifhed with a hand=- fome organ. The fhip being made our head quarters, it is a great fource of amufement to us while we remain in harbour, to obferve the differ- ent fignals made at the flag ftaff, at the en- trance of the Bay, when any veflels appear within fight. Indeed the hourly expectation of the fleet has made the fignal-ftaff fo much an object of our ftudy, that fearcely’a flag can be hoified but we inftantly comprehend the intelligence it is meant to convey to the Governor, at Pilgrim, from whence the fig. nals are anfwered. Mafter, in particular, is become fuch an adept in this fcience, and’ is. fo entirely au fait to the fignal code, that, fhould a vacancy occur, during our continu- 329 ance here, it is propofed to recommend Dr. Robert Mafter, phyfician to the forces; as a. proper perfon for the appointment of Szgval- | Mafter-General, for Carlifle bay, and the _ whole of the bays and promontories of his Majefty’s ifland of Barbadoes. 339 LETTER XXVIL Mareoning excurfion to the windward coaft of Barbadoesa. Harrifon's Cave. Sugar Hill. Soes River. Unhappy fate of the Rev. Mr. H. its late poffeffar. Bay-bcufe. Beer- foeba. Animal flower. Hackleton’s cliff. Mules of the _ Alps. Ginger plantation. Colleton eftate. Urbanity of Mr. Hollingsworth and family. Codrington coliege. Coach — Fill. . Negroes dine in the open-field expofed to the fun. Mode of claying fugar. Eccentric manager of Kendalt eftate. Drax-hall. Barbadoes one of the * Friendly Fes.” Spendlove eftate. Hofpitality and benevolence of Mr. Fobn . Waith. Fat people not uncommon in Barbadoes. Gratt- tude of faves. Negro privileges. Picturefque fcenery of a Negro yard. Market held on Sunday. Supphed by Ne= groes. Sprats, lobfters, and milk punch ferved after dine - ner. Myr. Waith, fen. invites the Party to a Barbadoes. farimer’sedinner. Difappointment refpecting Mr. Elleock’s botanical collection. Compenfation by recommending it to the attention of Dr. Wright. General remarks concerning the -excurfiott. ; 4 - Barbadoes, Feb. 27. WE have made our projected Marooning excurfion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and the wind- ward coaft of the ifland, as planned by our friends at the “focial rock,” and how often, in the courfe of it, did my thoughts wander to another friend, withing yet ‘one addition, to the party ! | : 4 | | 332 On the 23d inf. we went off before fix inthe morning to Bridge- Town, where we found flaves, horfes, and every necef- fary for the journey, provided by the friendly Mr. Hinde, and in readinefs for our departure. It was arranged, that we fhould avail ourfelves of the early fee of the day, _by proceeding to Col. Williams’s before break- faft.. The morning was dull; the fky low- ered, and it threatened rain; but none fell, and from the fun being obfcured, the air was pleafantly cool. E We rode flowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s, where we were joined by the Dodtor, and Mr. Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our arrival at Col. Williams’s,; we found- the breakfaft board moft bounteoufly fpread, and the Col. prepared to take an ative part in the expedition, After breakfafling with good appetite, and being well refted and refrefhed, we left the * focial rock,” to purfue our route, in the true Marooning fpirit of making a home whenever we might require it, or. wherefoever we might find it, availing our- felves of whatever dwelling might prefent _itfelfin our path. The firft objet which met \ 332 our attention was within about half a. mile of the Col.’s houfe, where we ftopped to ex-. plore one of the greateft natural curiofities. of the Ifland—a very extenfive fubterraneous. cavern, called “ Harrifon’s Caye.” Its hid- den mouth opens among the rocks of a deep narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There we forfook the world of light, and defcended. into the dark regions of the earth, in order: to advance to the bottom of the fombre depths, before us. Our way was intricate and ob- {cure. Taking with us three Negroes, with lights, we defcended by narrow windings, or {pacious openings, by broad walks, or narrow crooked paths, over loofe ftones, or rocky, | ficeps. At one moment we found ourfelves nder a fine arch or dome, hung with clufters. of petrifaQions ; at another we were in a ~ narrow aifle, whofe walls, and impending wault, faintly glittered with multiform ineruf- | tations. By the fenfes of feeling and hear- ing, more than by fight, we judged of the varying uncertainty of our fituation, and ad- vanced in perilous fep—now confined, now in more open fpace, until we reached a {pot where we came to a gentle rivulet, foftly Realing along its fubterraneous bed.in a pure © 333. and cryftal ftream. A few foft rays, eleam« ing fromi above, filvered over the furfate, and exhibited all the purity of this limpid cur- rent, conveying, amidft fome fimilirudes of - fituation and of fcene, precifely the reverfe of the difmal waters of Acheron, which are re- prefented by the poets as wandering in oy gloomy dark, where Above no fky is feen ; below A turbid wave is feen to flow. But here the fky did appear above, for it was feen at a circular opening, cut through the foil and the folid rock, to the depth of thirty or forty fathoms, and refembled the pale moon, or the brighter orb of day, divefted of his ‘flery rednefs, and his golden beams. The wave, too, was any thing but turbid; indeed, it was fo invitingly clear and pure, that we were tempted to drink of its limpid ftream. Together with our artificial lights, the mild rays from the opening above, pene- trating to the very bottom of the cave, dif played the hanging tubes of ftalactites, and the © various furrounding petrifactions, in a pécu-— hharly interefting and romantic manner: 7) pe t¢ Here incruftations ftrike the eyes: There fpangled domes, with luftre bright, Beam down an artificial light ; Whience penfile hang, in gothic thew | Defcending to the ce below, Fantaftic forms Ni After contemplating the fine pellucid ftream, and the pendant vaults, the arches, and receffes around, we proceeded onwards to a confiderable diftance beyond: the rivulet, until the intricate path became more and more | difficult, and the gloomy cavern feemed to clofe upon usin dark, and endlefs deep. The feeble taper now fcarcely illumined the fpot — whereon we ftood, while all before us was buried in the profoundeft darknefs. The ' path grew ftill more uncertain and irregular: | here we bent our perfons- almoft double to pafs under arugged arch; there defcended a _ fudden fteep; then, again, we had‘to {cram- ble up a craggy and projeQing mafs: prefent- ly we turned the fharp corner of a rock, into © a narrow paflage, between huge walls of ftone; © next we opened into a more {pacious vault; foon our way was again confined, or our heads ftruck the hanging petrifa€tions above. At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at 335 another our fteppings were upon loofe ftoness and, perhaps, the following inftant we found " our feet in water, or upon dampearth: now we feemed to have reached the utmoft depth of the cave—then we ftepped fuddenly into — a wide fpace. At length we reached the fartheft extent that had been explored, but unlimited windings feemed yet to lead on, in dark and terrific gloom, to the very centre of the earth. | Having no other lights than two or, three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent to venture farther into paflages unexplored, and -more particularly as the road we had pafied, had been fo obfcure and perplexing that, in cafe of any accident occurring to extinguifh our light, we might not have been able to have traced our way back, to the mouth of the cave. Hence we declined pro- ceeding any deeper into this filent tomb of the earth; and turned about to retrace our fieps to a brighter feene. Feeling better aflured refpeGting our path we now more | leifurely contemplated the ftupendous walls of rock, the varied incruftations, and ponderous | maffes of ftalactites, the multitudes of mad- i 336 ripores, and other calcareous concretions, | formed by nature from the limpid diftilling © drop, which were feen on all fides, alfo above and below, and hanging round about our heads in an endlefs variety of romantic and fanc- iful forms. The air, in moft parts of the cave, was confined and warm, but, occafionally, we felt it damp and chilly. On our way back, at a narrow pafs, where we had been obli- ged to bend low the knee in order to creep under the arch of a rock, we perceived it rufh in ftrong current; and here the whole of our lights were fuddenly extinguithed, and we were fhut in the dark and hollow bowels of the earth, unable to explore our way to the mouth of thecavern. Unhappily, too, we were confined in a damp current of air, where we were compelled to fland — _fhivering with cold, while Col. Williams and the Negroes, who had been ‘often in the cave, felt their way, at great hazard, to the ‘opening, to procure new lights, ‘\We remained buried in the filent feclufion of this fubterrane- ‘ous abode for nearly an hour; and when the diftant found of our conductct’s feet returned Fae upon our ears, and the foft glimmerings of light again ftole into the folemn depths of the cave, the effect was uncommonly ftriking and beautiful. Watching carefully as the negroes approached, we at one moment faw the rays of light gleam upon their dark {kins, gilding them as it were with fire, and giving them the appearance of the fons of Satan. Prefently we loft them in profound obfcurity, then again, the imperfect rays ftretched towards us, and at one moment we faw indiftin@ly the blacks defcend' from a rock, and at another perceived them fuddenly rife as from the deep. Again the light difappeared and we only heard © their diftant hollow founding fteps: then they efcaped from a narrow paflage or confined recefs, and were feen ftepping forth under an open and fpacious arch, where the ~ heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified columns, the mafly tubes, and impending cluf- ters of glittering concretions, together with the folemn echo, the fiery blacknefs of the negroes, and the fpreading rays of artificial light, partially abforbed, or feebly reflected, produced an effe@t, which was awfully ro- mantic and fublime. VOL, I. , Z ten 338 . In fuch a fituation, buried in darknefs and fepulchral filence, you will agree that it required but little aid of fancy to create pic- tures of horror, or to figure to the imagination the mighty abode of terrors and of punifh- ments. Call to your recolleGtion the effect fometimes produced ‘at the theatre, when the lights are withdrawn, and a few imperfect rays are thrown upon the dark fkins of ne- groes, and you will readily allow that when our eyes firft caught thefe Africans, at a dif-. tant part of the cavern, it {carcely required the powers of fancy to convert them into de-— mons of darknefs, approaching us with the tormenting flames of their dread parent; and you may fuppofe us tracing in our minds the — _ various degrees of punifhment merited by the - wicked, each of the party fixing upon that. to which his fecret feelings feemed to confign . him. Such an ajffociation did a@tually occupy our minds, and in ftillnefs we watched the approach of thefe fpirits of darknefs, while the awful gloom around us, the oblivious feclufion, .the dead filence, the occafional gleamings of imperfe light, and the fable fkins of the negroes obfufcated by the par- tial rays, all confpired to fix our contempla- : SS aes idee v. ? vie 4 ‘ oe 339 tions to ) the manfions of the valcMeds and by the time thefe fable beings had seaghtd us, we had fo powerfully traced the images of the black fpirits below, that it was difficult to per- fuade ourfelves they were only black bodies, bringing us lights from above. But the voice of the good Colonel, who had accompanied them, foon roufed us from our reverie, and reminded us that, however difmal our abode, it was not that bourn from whence notravellers return: we now haftened to change our bed of darknefs for brighter re- gions, but were obliged to tread our way in cautious fteps towards the exit of the cave, for the path was intricate and perilous. As we approached the opening we extinguifhed the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the ap- pearance of the foft rays which ftole in at the entrance of the cave, richly gilding the rocks and petrifactions, and gradually though irregu- larly increafing until we again met the bright- nefs of day. _ At our firft efcaping from the cave, the - ftrong light of a tropical fun, falling through the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, pro- duced a confiderable degree of pain, we there- Z2 340 fore remained a fhort time in the gully be- fore we again mounted our horfes; and then proceeded to a point called Sugar-hill, from whence we obtained an extenfive and very beautiful view of the parifhes of Scotland, and theromantic parts of the ifland which we had before vifited. Near to Sugar-hill we called at a cottage to give directions for fome oranges to be fent down to the “ Bay-houfe,’ a place we were to vifiten route. Here we met with two fair cottagers, the healthy looking daughters of the old dame of the houfe, who, though lefs ruddy, were not lefs {miling than the lovely and blooming peafants of old England ; and who, notwithftanding the want of rofy ah had pretty Englith faces. After enjoying the fweet views of Sugar- hill, and witnefling the fweeter {miles of the neighbouring young cottagers, we were con- ducted to the home of a Mr. Haynes, where we were received with a warm Barbadoes greeting, and welcomed with franknefs and a cordial hofpitality.. We refted only a few minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his fon join- 341 ed our party, and accompanied us to a neigh- bouring eftate called “ Joe’s River,” a moft beautiful fpot, and quite the elyfium of the Wland. Until lately it has been in the poffef- fion of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much ge= nius and learning, whofe lofs is deeply re- gretted by all, but more particularly by the literati of the ifland. He was a {cientific botanift, and as much refpected for his lite- rary talents, and extenfive information, as revered for his benevolent and focial difpofi- tion. The houfe is finely fituated on elevated ground near the fea, furrounded with exten- five plantations of the choiceft trees and tropical fruits. The garden and orchard had long been the devoted objects of his care. It was his with to procure an ufeful and orna- mental aflemblage of all the rare fruits and plants of the tropical regions: and in this intention he had already obtained a numerous and valuable collection, which, through his induftry and preferverance, was almoft daily increafing. His private hours were pafled in literary purfuits. Much of his time was de- 203 es | | voted to his favorite ftudy of Natural Hiftory, and to realizing the improvements fuggefted by his contemplations. In fociety he was con- vivial; to his flaves he was kindand humane; and, pofleifing great urbanity, he was benevo- Jent and friendly to all. , The fates that rule our deftiny are faid to be blind; and you will agree that they muft indeed have wanted fight, when you are told that they have thrown this efteemed and valu- able man iato dire diftrefs, and robbed him of the powers of his enriched and highly or- namented mind. Bereft of his mental. facul- ties, of all thofe fine and comprehenfive ta- lents which fo adorned and honored him, both as a prieft and a man, he now languifhes ~ in fadnefs and misfortune, loft to his friends, and the world; and the happy dwelling © which was graced by hofpitality and benevo- lence, enriched by induftry, and dignified by | {cience; that delightful home, the object of his anxious cares and ftudies, as well as the proud — and juft boaft of the ifland, is now left to fall into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the — hidden paths, the fhattered doors and win- 343 dows, the wild neglected trees, the obtrufive weeds, and half covered walks all befpeak, — in doleful decline, its formér beauty ; and while they create a fcene, at once romantic and picturefque, excite the moft painful feel- ings of regret, and lead to gloomy reflections concerning the inftability of all earthly things, The objects around convey the image of the mafter’s now difordered mind, and the whole place feems to deplore in fympathetic fadnefs the melancholy derangement of his once rare and fplendid faculties: and truly may it be faid that Joe’s river mourns the fhattered in- telleét, and participates, in foft and faft wither- ing forrow, the affliGing ills that have be- fallen this diftinguifhed ornament of Barba- does. Having viewed every part of this inter- efting eftate, with a minutenefs of attention which was merited, equally by its fituation and improvements, as by the painful hiftory ‘of its late accomplifhed owner, we left it with regret, earneftly fympathizing with our friends in the fad lofs they fo Pavey and fo juftly deplored. 3 doe | Zz 4 : 344 We now proceeded to'the fea-fide, and our next place of call was at a cottage termed the Bay-houle, -a neat little building erected by Mr. Haynes, under a rock upon the open beach, to ferve as a place of reft and refrefh- ment for fuch of his friends, and, in great truth may we fay, his friends’ friends, who may chance to vifit the windward coaft, We found it the rendezvous of entertainment and repofe. Intimation had been conveyed to the generous owner that it might perhaps . ~ be in our way to make an ex paffant vifit at the Bay-houfe, and he had availed himfelf of the information to provide a rich and bounti- ful repaft. All the good things of the ifland feemed to have been colleéted. The whole neighbourhood had been ranfacked for our convenience and accommodation. The beft productions from all quarters were direéted hither to fupply the hofpitable board. Cook, butler, fifhermen, fervants, and flaves were all aflembled to give their attendance, The net was thrown into the fea immediately — before the door, and the fithes that were ta- _ ken were prefently {moking upon the table; fruits, wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables were brought in loads, and made only a part 845 of the feaft of this little cottage, built by generous hofpitality, and dedicated to friend- fhip and focial harmony. A fupply of pro- vifions was likewife collected for the refrefh- ment of our flaves and horfes, and thefe were regaled with no lefs liberality than their _ mafters —the friendly hofpitality of the “‘ Bay- houfe” being extended equally to all. Punch and mandram were ferved to us _ before dinner, the one to quench our thirft, the other to provoke the appetite; and foon afterwards were fet before us a variety of _ difhes, confifting of boiled, ftewed, and broiled fith, a cold roafted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls, tongues, cray-fifh, anda multitude of other good things. After we had dined very abun- dantly the table was covered with punch, a variety of excellent wines, and feveral fpecies of fruit. Among the latter was a fine pine, the firft we had tafted inthe ifland. I do not know that the flavor was fuperior to that of fome of the pines I have tafted fromthe hot-houfes of — England, although it certainly was very ex~ quifite: but I muft tafte again, and often, before I hazard a general opinion upon this fubject. 346 Having plentifully refrefhed ourfelves, and the flaves and-horfes being well fed and yefted, wecalled the negroes from their defert of rolling and bafking in the fun, and pro- ceeded upon our journey. ‘To our great fur- — prize, at the very moment the horfes appeared at the door for our departure, a large dith of fprats, {moking from the gridiron, and an immenfe bow] of milk-punch, were fet before us. This was quite a Weft Indian addition to the repaft. Having eaten very heartily, and indulged in copious libations, we had already done even too much in the way of feafting, but, to my great aftonifhment, fome of the party partook with a renewal of appetite which was rather indicative of fitting down to dinner, than of rifing from table. At two o’clock we had commenced with punch; - after which came the mandram; at three was ferved the dinner: bufy eating and drink- ing continued until five; and then appeared the {prats, and bowl of milk-punch : thus did nearly four hours pafs in high banquetting and conviviality at this focial cottage. At length, due honors having been done to the punch and {prats, we again put ourfelves ex route, the party ‘being’ increafed by the ad- 347 dition of Mr. Haynes jun., who accompa-, nied us throughout the remainder of the day. | We rode along the fands to a {pot called Beer- fheba, which is ufed as anatural bathing place, among the rocks, and from thence proceeded to a large mafs of rocks, lying in the water, near to the edge of the fea, where we had the expectation of feeing a very curious natu- ral production called the animal flower. But here we were unluckily difappointed ; for the tide being in, the fea running high, and the wind ftrong, we were unable to reach the {pot where this phenomenon of nature is ufually found, Although we loft the opportunity of fee- ing it, I cannot refrain from giving you the account of this uncommon flower, and its dwelling place, as communicated to us by our brother Maroons. It is as follows :— Within a deep cave, formed in the rock, is a ' f{pacious natural bafon of water, which is about eleven feet above low water mark. It is collected from the fea beating into the cave in rough weather; and hence, that which lodges in this bafon is entirely falt water, ex- cept a very {mall admixture from rain, which 348 diftils in drops, through the {mall openings of the rock. In the middle of the bafon isa large ftone, or piece of detached rock, which is ufually covered with water. About this ftone, and adhering to its fides, as if grow- ing therefrom, are feen numbers of apparently beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid colours, and of radiated form, fomewhat re- fembling the petals of the garden marigold. Some are of a pale yellow, or a light ftraw colour, tinged with green; others of a grey- ifh purple, variegated with black fpots. To gather any of thefe feeming flowers — is a tafk of difficulty, for when the hand ap- proaches them, the- beautiful petals inftantly contrat, and become invifible. If left un- difturbed they re-appear, in the courfe of a few minutes, gradually expanding into their former bloom ; but again retire, with furpriz- / ing quicknefs, on the approach of the hand, | a cane, or any other body that oat be di- rected towards them. This circumftance, as you will expec, led to early inveftigation regarding the nature of this fingular flower, when, inftead of a fine 349 ~ blowing vegetable, it was difcovered to be ati - animal that was decorated with all this gaiety of Bocing 5 and hence the name “ ani- mal flower.” On examination the body is found to be of a blackifh hue, lefs than an inch in length, and about a quarter of an inch in thicknefs: It adheres by one end to the rock, and from the other extremity, which projects outwards, | are thrown off a number of fine membranous filaments, in a radiated and circular form ; and from the point or head, at the centre of this circle, proje& four long flender fibrils, not unlike the legs of the fpider. Thus, while the body appears as the calyx, and the expanded | filaments as the petals, thefe fibrils ferving as the ftamina, complete the refemblance of a regular and beautiful flower, It has been fuggefted, that as this animal is almoft wholly deprived of locomotive power, the fine colours, given to the mem- branous filaments, ferve as a provifion of nature, to allure and bring within its reach the {maller infe&ts, upon which it feeds; and from the quick fpontaneous motion of the 3:0 ws fine central threads, from fide to fide, or round the whole border of the radiated cir- cle, thefe would feem to be defigned to a& as forceps, for conveying the food to the mouth, the extended filaments ferving as antenna, or feelers, to difcover the prey, and from their contractile power enclofing it, when feized, as in a purie, or facculus, until it is devoured. With much difappointment at not being able to fee this natural curiofity of the ifland, we left the coaft, in order to afcend the mountainous fummit, called Hackleton’s Cliff, —the only {pot which difputes with Hiloughby hill the claim of being the loftieft point of Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and fin- gularly precipitate. ‘To walk up it was a de- gree of fatigue which, it was infifted, Euro- peans ought not to encounter; and to ride was not free from danger, befides being a cruel Jabour to the poor horfes. But.as it was contended that they would better fupport the toil than ourfelves, we were induced to con- tinue upon our faddles, although, indeed, with much difficulty, from the rapid rifing of the afcent. By ftopping frequently to let the poor animals recover their breath, we did, at length, reach the fummit; but never before | a5 vhad I fat upon a horfe to climb fo fleep a mountain. Inthe Alps of Switzerland, and of Savoy, it is not unufual to ride {mall horfes, called Mountain Ponies, over the lef- fer hills; but previous to afcending the more lofty and fleeper mountains thefe are always changed for mules; and with them I have often ventured up afcents even more nearly perpendicular than Hackleton’s Cliff. But the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring, and more patient animal. He is not irafcible and impetuous like the horfe, and moreover, in fuch fituations he is fo accuftomed to the _ climbing of mountains, that he appears fen- fible of all the dangers around him, and is careful in every movement, to confult the fafety of himfelf and his rider. Only give him the bridle, or as the guides fay, “* laiffex lui aller,” and in the moft perilous fituations you.need not feel yourfelf in any danger. His fagacity is equal to his care: he looks with caution at each ftepping, and he knows his foot to be fecure, before he ventures to. bear upon it the weight of his body. I re- member to have rode at firft, in much fear and trembling ; but upon witnefling the dex- _ terity of the animal my terrors gave way ta $54 aftonifhment; and my aftonifhment gradually yielded to a placid fecurity, until, at length, I could throw the rein upon the neck of the mule, and regard the frightful precipices, and imminent dangers around us, without any ~ apprehenfion. — ita In the Alpsa mule will carry you up mountains which are fo fteep as to appear from the valley quite perpendicular, pro- ceeding by a narrow path, in which he cannot poffibly turn himfelf round, and paffing clofe by the edge of the moft terrific precipices, climbing only by means of irregular holes made among the roots of trees, or ftep- pings roughly broken in the rock; yet have, you only to give him the bridle and fit ftill, holding by the mane to keep yourfelf from flipping back, and you are in the utmoft ~ fafety. | But I muft return from the Alps, and tell you that in confequence of our feafting delay at the Bay-houfe, and the time re- quired to afcend the cliff, we found the even- ing ftealing upon us before we came to the top. The fun had already funk -too low, to 353 gild the landfcape with its rays, or to enliven the view of the ocean, with the brightnefs -which fhone upon our vifit to Hillough- by hill; but, from what Ihave already faid of that, your imagination will readily fuggeft to you the beauties of the fcenery, and the extent of the profpe€& from Hackleton’s Cliff From viewing the delightful variety around, under the defcending rays of declin- ing day, the effect was newand pleafing. A foft and placid picture fucceeded to the ftrong and © vivid colours of noon: the landfcape, though lefs bright, was, perhaps, not lefs interefting ; and, as we had vifited Mount Hilloughby in the full glow of day, we did not lament that we faw Hackleton’s Cliff under the gentle and retiring beams of evening. Unexpectedly we found the top of the cliff to be a wide extended furface, covered with herbage, and fo gradually declining on the oppofite fide, that on turning our faces from the fteep precipice of the eaft, we appeared to be upon a wide plain, inftead of a rude fummit, or nearly the higheft point of land in the ifland. On the cliff we vifited the eftate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleafant — WOOL. I. AA 354 houfe, delightfully fituated, near the moft lofty part of this high fummit, bearing no appearance of being fo elevated, or within fo fhort a diftance of the ftupendous precipice which is near to it. | Ginger is the produce of the plantation. - We faw great quantities of this root fpread before the houfe, upon a large fquare neatly paved, for the purpofe of drying it previous to fending it to market. : | From Mr. Stewart’s we proceeded to the Colleton eftate, where we purpofed taking up our quarters for the night. On our way I happened to learn that the gentleman of the houfe was not apprized of our intended vifit; and on difcovering this, it feemed to me only a neceflary civility to acquaint him. with it, I therefore propofed that we fhould difpatch an avant courier to announce our ap= proach, left, from defcrying fo large a party, unexpectedly, the family might verily believe us to be a hordeof Maroons; or, {till worfe, might miftake us for a foraging party of citeyens-foldats, coming to levy contributions — upon the efiate ; but I was defired to fufpend 905 ‘hy anxiety, and be affured that we fhould not fail to meet with good accommodations, and a fincere welcome, by only announcing ourfelves zz propriis perfonibus ; and this in- formation proved to be perfectly corre@, for Mr. Hollingfworth greeted us cordially, and entertained us in all the genuine hofpitality of the ifland. Eight vifitors, eight flaves, and eight horfes, thus dropping in unexpect- edly, and at night, were received with fuch kindnefs and unaffected urbanity as to af- fure us that thrice the number would have - been joyfully welcomed. No cold, nor for-_ bidding ceremony; no feeming hurry nor confufion; no derangement of the houfehold appeared. We were all immediately at home ; no mark of furprize, or inconvenience was evinced; not an individual was incommoded 3 the duties of the family were continued; nor was there the flighteft mark of interruption in any department of this hofpitable home. The ufual order was maintained, and it only ap- peared as though we were a part of the family. The mauvaife bonte, the confufion and embar- raflment but too common, upon fimilar oc- cafions in England, were utterly unknown ; -and we at once belonged to thefamily. The 1 ae, a? a 356 brimming punch-bowl was fet before us, and pleafant lively converfation prevailed until fup- per calied usto further feafting, which conti- nued until the hour of repofe. After fupper Mifs Hollingfworth kindly, as fweetly, added foft melody to complete the nee of the - entertainment. We retired to reft, according to the cuf- tom of the country, at an early hour. Drs. Mafter, Cleghorn, and myfelf were accom- modated in cone fpacious room. It was the firft night we flept on fhore, and you willjudge — of the temperature of thefe regions, when I tell you that, in this cool part of the moft Windward Ifland, and in the month of February, we fet open the windows of the room, and threw afide all the bedding and clothes, preferving to each perfon only a hard mattrefs, and a fingle fheet. With this ar- rangement we paffed the night in found re- pofe, and rofe at fix in the morning, well prepared for another marooning day. | We rode Metered) brenkien to fee the Barbadoes or Codrington College. On our way we pafled an eftate called “Society,” and on 357 : approaching the college from the high land of that quarter we obtained a fine view of the _ building, with the plain on which it ftands, and the wide expanfe of the fea, {pread be- fore it. Defcending from the hill we met with the fineft avenue of mountain cabbage trees that we had feen in the ifland. The college was founded by Colonel Codrington, and richly endowed, with the generous and very laudable intention of eftablifhing a great and ufeful feminary for the education of the youth of Barbadoes; the liberal founder appropriating the revenue of two large eftates to the inftitution, in the _ defire of affording an opportunity to the Creole generations of the ifland, of acquiring | learning, and fitting themfelves for the im- portant duties of fociety, and of their indi- vidual ftations, without incurring the ex~ pence of an European education. But the benevolent intentions of the Colonel have not been duly regarded. The profits intended for this beft of purpofes have been fquan- dered away, and the funds difgracefully ne- gle&ted or abufed. The fuperb edifice, which was planned, has not been finifhed, and even AA 3 358 the part that was erected, has, from fhameful: neglea, been brought into early decay. Only one fide of the intended quadrangle has yet — been built, and that, to the difgrace of thofe concerned, has long been left to fall into ruin, The prefent manager, highly to his honor, has done much towards recovering the eftates, and directing the funds, arifing there- from, into their proper channel. By his care a very confiderable fum has been recently accumulated, and the part of the building which has been erected, is now undergoing a thorough repair, in the hope of faving it from utter and premature deftruction. | The walls are built of ftone, and are of uncommon ftrength. They withftood the dreadful hurricane of 1780, and appear to be full capable of a complete repair, but it muft be at great labor, and a prodigious expence. As we were viewing the large hall, and the chapel, we received a meflage from the mafter, the Rev. Mr. Thomas, requefting us to take breakfaft with him: but our plan for 4 359 the day, and our engagements with Mr. Hollingfworth did not allow us to accept the — invitation. We however had an opportunity of thanking him, by making him a vifit in the houfe built for the principal of the college, which we were forry to obferve, like the other parts of the ftru€ture, had been left unheeded, and was falling into comparatively youth- ful decay. Mr. Thomas fhewed us a model in wood, according to the original defign; and, had the building been completed upon this plan, Barbadoes might have boafted a college, vying in grandeur, and elegance of ftruGture, with the greateft ornaments of the celebrated univerfities of the mother-country. The model, like the building, feeling the - deftrudtive effe& of the climate, and of fad negle@t, was faft crumbling into a ftate, in which it could only ferve to minifter duft to the elements ! Twelve boys, only, are yet admitted on the foundation, and thefe, inftead of occu pying any part of the college building, are accommodated in the houfe of the matter, the parlour being converted into a kind of a {cheol-room, for the purpofe. | | AA 4 360 We returned to Mr. Hollingfworth’s by a different road, from that we had taken in | going, afcending fome high land near the college, called “Coach-Hill.” This ride afford- ed us an opportunity of feeing a numerous gang of negroes grouped in the middle of a field, taking their breakfaf, during the tem- porary fufpenfion allowed them from labor. They were feated upon the bare earth, and expofed to the full ardor of the feorching fun. | On our arrival we found a handfome breakfaft prepared for us, and neatly ferved in a large cool roem, with all the tafte and fafh- ion of the Weft Indies. While partaking of it I feveral times detected my thoughts wandering to the poor blacks in the field, contemplating the fimplicity of their fare, and che humble natural board on which it was fpread. They had no water-glafies to cool their fingers, nor had they, like us, a youthful flave to fan the breeze with a fra-_ erant bough, and protect their naked ikins Git the painful annoyance of infects. 301 The Colleton eftate is one of the largeft in the ifland. It is, at prefent, the property of a Mrs. Colleton, who refides in London. The dire€tion and fole management of it is left _ to Mr. Hollingfworth ; and Mrs, Colleton is _ fortunate in giving her confidence to a perfon of high honor and integrity, who does every ' juftice to the eftate, and the proprietor. At ' the Colleton plantation we had an opportunity of witnefling the mode of claying or (as they commonly term it) émproving fugar. Thisis -avery fimple procefs by which the fugar is ~ much whitened, and increafed in value. Acoat- ing of clay, foftened nearly toa liquid flate with water, is fpread over the furface of the fugar, as it ftands in the deep earthen pots into ' which it is received from the boiler, and the fluid parts gradually draining away, the clay becomes hardened into a dry cake at the top; while the water pafles through the whole of the fugar, and carries with it a confiderable portion of the melafles, through an opening at the bottom of the pot, leaving the fugar greatly whitened, and improved. ‘The clay having become dry and contracted into a hard cake, is eafily removed from the furface. We faw it lifted from feveral of the pots; and 362 the difference between the fugar in thefe and in the pots which had not been fubjeéted to the fame procefs was very ftriking. After being thus improved the fugar fells at a price nearly one third higher, than in its raw ftate: other advantages are likewife faid to derive to the planter from this partial mode of refining the produce of his canes. Soon after breakfaft we refumed our morning wan- derings, leaving the Colleton eftate imprefled with a {trong fenfe of the kind reception, and the very warm hofpitality it had afforded us. Upon taking leave, it was difcovered that our party had decreafed from eight to feven. The family and the houfe had fufficient attrac-. tions to detain the inclinations of us all; but the peculiar magnet which influenced the per-- fon, whole fociety we loft, was of an irrefift- able nature,—the junior Mr. H. was the hap- py fuitor of Mifs Hollingfworth, and, amidft the crowd of the evening, her attentions had neceffarily been too much divided for him to have fecured the exclufive proportion duetoa _ faithful and devoted admirer. © After leaving Mr. Hollingfworth’s, “ Clarke’s Court,” and “Kendall” eftates, were 363 the two firft Plantations that arrefted our atten- tion. The latter is under the direction of a very fingular and eccentric character, whofe great ambition is to a& differently from other men; and who finds a fecret pleafure in deviating from all eftablithed and common rules. His mill is oddly trimmed, the fails ftrangely cut, and all the works, by fome deviation or other, made peculiar. Among a multitude of other fingularities he has plant- ed a patch of pigeon peas in the neighbour- hood of'a field of canes, in order to allure the borers from the fugar,—a piece of policy very like fetting a difh of tough beef before an alderman to feduce his appetite from a haunch of venifon ! From Kendall’s we rode to “* Drax-Hall,”, the largeft plantation of the ifland, and the property of the Grofvenor family. ‘The houfe. is a fpacious old manfion, quite pro- portionate to the fize of the eftate, which we obferved, from its great extent, had two mills, and adouble fet of works for the preparation of the fugar. This was alfo the cafe at the large eftates of Colleton and Kendall, 364 No interruption,x—no chafm occurs in the hofpitality of Barbadoes! It is univerfal and literally, as juftly, entitles it to be ranked. among the “ friendly ifles.” In all the li-_ berality of the country Mr. Chatterton of Drax-Hall, invited us to pafs the day at the good old manfion, kindly profering us every friendly accommodation. But it was not -confiftent with our plan to take up our quar- — ters at fo early an hour; we were therefore compelled to violate our inclinations, which — would have detained us throughout the day © atthe Hall. After taking the refrefhment of | fome wine and water, we purfued our ride, and pafling by way of a wood, called after the name of the plantation ‘* Drax-Hall wood,” © we proceeded to an eftate called “‘ Spendlove,” which is under the care, and very excellent management of Mr. John Waith, a gentle- man in no degree lefs friendly, or hofpitable thanany we had feen in the ifland, and although very active, no lefs fat and good humoured. than fome of our well fed priefts, who feaft. upon the good things of England. We find that fat perfons are by no means uncommon in this ifland, notwith- 365 ftanding the great heat of climate, and the exceffive wafte of fluids by perfpiration ; nor can this be at all wonderful to thofe who have witnefled their hearty devotion to the good things of the table. Spendlove was our place _of dinner, and, while this was preparing, we begged permiffion to fee the negro-yard, and to extend our vifit into fome of the huts, being defirous to infpedct the habitations, and “witnefs the mode of life of the flaves. It was remarked to us that the negroes were tenacious of their home, and difliked to have their huts expofed to. the prying eye of ftrangers: We accordingly treafured the in- timation, promifing not to be too minute, but to regulate our curiafity with all becom- ing decorum, paying due regard to the feelings and prejudices of the fable inhabitants: and I fhould have been truly mortified not to have had this opportunity of telling you, from the _ teftimony both of my eyes and ears, the very comfortable, and, I might fay, happy ftate in which we found the flaves of Spendlove. In your future good wifhes for the com- fort of the poor Africans forget not to pray that all mafters may poflefs hearts as kind, and humane, as that which beats in the boform — of “ Jack Waith,” this being the title by. which that gentleman is beft known in the ifland. ‘The kind indulgence of the mafter is amply repaid in the attachment of his flaves; and the history of Mr. Waith and his gang, may ftand in everlafting re= proach tothe felf-arrogating opinion which maintains that negroes know not the divine fentiment of gratitude, but are moft treache-. rous toward the mafter who beft treats, and moft indulges them. Were this the faa, as is not unfrequently afferted, it would offer itfelf in direGt oppofition to one great principle of human nature, and would place the blacks very far indeed below the whites, but, how- ever much individual inftances might feem to countenance the opinion, thefe, perhaps, do not’ occur more frequently among Africans, than’ among Europeans, and furely cannot be con- fidered to arife more from any defe& of a great and amiable principle of nature in them, than we fhould be willing to admit that they do in ourfelves. Such inftances are but the effect of depravity in either, and proceed from a perverfion, not from a genuine principle of nature, and hence cannot in the one, more 367 than in the other, ferve to eftablith any general - maxim. By kind attentions, by occafional and friendly indulgences towards his flaves, Mr. Waith had fo meliorated their condition, fo foftened to them the hardfhips of flavery, and fo improved their comforts, as to attach them to his perfon and his intereft by the fecure ties of affeCtion and gratitude. Tne loud clang of the whip was feldom heard among them, and the fmartings of ‘its painful lafh were fcarcely dreaded ; for a better principle than fear impelled them to their duty. Their friendthip for their mafter made his intereft their own; and their gratitude, towards him, rendered his fafety the object of their folicitude, and even of their lives. Of this he had, in two great in- ftances, known the moft unequivocal proof,— one when the negroes of the eftates had form- | ed a confpiracy to rife upon their mafters,—. the other upon an alarm being given that the land was attacked by the French! On both thefe occafions the flaves of Spendlove had voluntarily offered to lay down their lives in defence of Mr. Waith and his houfe. 368 At the negro yards it is common for the flaves to plant fruits and vegetables, and to raife ftock. Some of them keep a pig, fome a goat, fome Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens, pigeons, or the like; and at one of the huts of Spendlove, we faw a pig, a goat, a young kid, fome pigeons, and fome chickens, all the property of an individual flave.—This is mere indulgence, but it gratifies and amufes the negroes, and becomes, in various ways, highly ufeful. The little garden, and their flock, not only afford them occupation and amufement for their leif{ure moments, but create a degree of intereft in the fpot, and ex- cite feelings of attachment toward the matter, who both grants and protects the indulgence. The negro-yard, viewed from a fhort diftance, forms an object of highly interefting and picturefque fcenery ;—it comprizes all the little huts, intermixed with, and more or lefs concealed by the variety of fhrubs and fruit trees, which kindly lend their fhade ; likewife the many fmall patches of garden ground around them, and the different fpecies of ftock, fome appearing in pens, fome. tied by the leg, or the neck, and fome running at large ; and if it be evening, you have alfo the 369 crowd of negroes, male and female, as they chance to be {een, at reft, or moving in bufy occupation, fome pafling from hut to hut, fome. dancing to their favorite mufic, fome fitting at the door with the pipe in their mouths, and others fmoking their loved fagar under the-broad leaf of the plantain: The picture is alfo further enlivened by the groups of little black children ;—fome run- ning and {kipping about, fome feated, play- ing before the doors, in Nature’s ebon drefs, _ and fome, unable to walk, attempting little pedeftrian excurfions upon their hands and feet. Perhaps within fo {mall a fpace, few {cenes could offer fo much to intereft a con- templative mind ; or to aid the pencil of a painter of the picturefque. | Independent of their own provifions, either raifed or purchafed, each negro has his weekly allowance iflued to him, every Sun- day, from the eftate ; and hence they are at liberty to take the whole of their own private ftock to. market, and to procure whatever ad- ditional comforts they prefer with the money it produces; and perhaps it will feem ftrange to you when I tell you that the markets of VOL, ts BR | 378 the ifland depend almoft wholly upon thig mode of fupply. They are all held weekly, and upon the Sunday; that being the day when the negroes are free from labour, and have leifure to attend. Mr. Waith has learned the happy art of poverning the flaves with kindnefs, and he finds it a better fteward than the whip. With great goodnefs of heart he indulges his own humane feelings, and finds it better policy than ufing ftripes. He is a man of focial manners, and would certainly deceive Lavater himfelf, if he poffeffed not all the generofity and benevolence for which he has obtained fuch univerfal credit ; for fo plainly is all this written upon his brow, that thofe who run may read it.—He is of a ruddy complexion, and, with an uncommon degree of fatnefs, is very aclive, and appears to have all the firong health of an European. Never was entertainment more bountiful, or given with greater liberality, or. a more cordial wel+ come, than at the plantation of Spendlove, Punch and mandram preceded the dinner ; at table was an extenfive variety of good things; and after the cloth was removed, the board © 371 was {pread with fruits of various kinds, toge- ther with claret, port, and madeira wines, and Goava-punch. The round of feafting having continued for feveral hours, it was followed, like our dinner at the Bay-Houfe, by new provoca- tives ; and the appetite, having already con- fumed more than it required, was invited to take more than it ought, by the unexpected appearance of fmoking {prats, hot lobfters, and a large bow! of milk punch. The cloth was again regularly fpread, at a fide table, and thefe things placed by us, as if we had juft arrived from a journey with all the cravings of hunger; and to my afto- | nifhment, I confefs, fome of the party left the fruit and wine, and feating themfelves in due form at the other table, exhibited a renewal of appetite, as if the dinner they had juft taken had been already digefted and forgotten. Mr. Waith’s, father and brother came from their different plantations to meet us at Spendlove, and were of the party at din- ner. The old gentleman is an uncommonly | BE 2 372 handfome man, fixty years of age, with alt the health and fpirits of a perfon of forty. He is not fo fat as his fon, mazs trés enbon» pomt, He is jocofe and lively, a facetious com- panion, highly convivial, and, in the full {pirit of the Weit Indies, a perfect bon vivant. Fe entreated us, with much kindnefs and urgent folicitation, to make a vilit to his eftate before we leave Barbadoes, apologizing in his own mirthful way, for not having it in his power to offer us more than a “* plain farmer’s dinner,—a pig, a duck, and a turkey cock.” In order to reach Bridge-Fown in time to go on board to fleep, we left Spendlove earlier than our inclinations would have dic- tated. On our way we called at the houfe of — Mr. Ellcock, brother to an eminent phyfician ef that name, whom we had met at Dr. Hinde’s. We were led to the houfe through — an avenue of the ftatelymountain cabbage trees, — whichare fopeculiarly calculated to formagrand and impoling approach to any gentleman’s dwelling. Thefe were the fineft which had yet occurred to our obfervation, not excepting thofe we had feen at the college. Mr. Ellcock’s — is the moft modern, and moft European-look= \ 373 inc abode we met with in the whole of our tour, The houfe and little flower garden before it refemble thofe of England, and near to the door is a cool ayenue forming an agreeable promenade, deeply fhaded with the foliage of a very handfome tree called the « Evergreen.” We walked into the fmall garden before the houfe, which is laid out a /’angloife, and has much more correctly the appearance of an Englifh garden, than the many very humble Imitations, which Englifhmen are fo often in- yited to fee in France, Germany, and other parts of the, continent, under the title of ** Jardin Anglois.” Mr, Elleock’s favorite purfuit is bota- ny. Heis occupied in obtaining an extenfive colle@ion of rare and curious plants, and of the different fpecies of tropical trees, and fruits. He is particularly curious in his or- chard; but unfortunately he was irom home, _and the key was nat to be found, hence we loft the opportunity of feeing perhaps the moft varied, and valuable aflemblage of fruit trees inthe ifland. Nor could we even iteal , BB 3 374 one look at the colletion, through any open- | ing, for the gate was clofe as the door of a convent, and the whole orchard was furround- ed with a high hedge of the lignum vite, fo thick and impenetrable as to refift even the prying eye of curiofity. om Both the orchard and garden were originally planned, and have been wholly planted under the immediate infpe€tion of Mr. Ellcock, to whofe tafte and induftry every credit is due for the improvements made, and the very valuable collection already brought together. He is a fcientific bota- nift; and, from learning the attention he -de- votes to his plants and trees, and to the vege- table world in general, we could not but con- template, in {trong fympathy, the fevere lofs he muft have felt in the unhappy fate of the learned naturalift of “ Joe’s River.” In a {mall and remote ifland fuch alofs becomes, in many points of view, irreparable, it being “unlike Europe, where from fcience being more _ advanced and more generally diffuled, fo . many may be found of congenial minds, that the lofs of one of Flora’s favorite fons. might not be equally irremediable. I have 375 not heard that it was fo, but reafon and fvm- pathy would feem to imply it, and you, I know, will feel with me, that from circum- {tances of locality, and from fimilaritv of fenti- ment and occupation, M. Ell-cock and Mr. H—- muft have been more than brothers in recard and efteem, and that, to either, the lofs of ‘the other mufthave been of multiplied feverity. Although difappointed in this vifit, we have ftill an eye to the collection of Mr. Ellcock, and do not intend to let it efcape without infpeétion ; for fhould it happen that we may be called away, betore we have an opportunity of returning to it ourfelves, we have made known its fituation to a friend of ours, whofe induftry and acutenefs in the {cience of botany will not allow a twig or a flower to pafs unnoticed. Our colleague, Dr. Wright, is told where to find it, and as he is of the Charibbee [fland ftaff, and may remain longer here than ourfelves, or may poflibly be ftationed in the ifland, it willbea . great delight, and perhaps the highelt gratifi- cation that could offer to him, to explore this tropical vegetable depot. The Doctor isa veteran in the field of Flora, and in him Mr. BB 4 376 Ellcock may find a valuable fubftitute for the late unhappy poffeflor of “ Joe’s River.” Zealous and well verfed as our friend is in the realms of botany, and particularly from having already augmented his fame by his in- duftrious refearches refpeQiing the botanical — produdtions of Jamaica, to range amidft fuch a colleftion of tropical plants, would form the delight of his leifure, and, from his ac- curate knowledge in the fcience, the whole botanical worid might perhaps be benefited by it. To Mr. Ellcock, I truft it is alfo a plea- fure in ftore, for he could not but find pleafure in being known to our friend, whofe reputa- tion asa botanift, is only rivalled by his phil- anthrophy, and his amiable character as a man. Difappointed in our vifit at Mr. Ellcock’s we rode on to Bridge-Town without further delay, and arrived in time to go off to the Lord Sheffield before the prohibited hour of nine, after which no es are permitted ta ' Jeave the hore. To bring into one point the fum of grati« ‘fication afforded by this delightful excurfion, Ad would be a work of difficulty. You will form - fome idea of it from the loofe details I have marked. It has offered us an abundant op- portunity of feeing the whole face of the ifland; of viewing many of the different plantations ; of obferving the produce and mode of cultiva- tion; of witneffing the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants ; and of noticing the labors and mode of life of the flaves;—whom we have feen in the fields,—in their huts,—in the fugar works,—about the houfes,—at their mo= ments of reft and retirement, and amidft all their various occupations and modes of em- ployment. — 378 LETTER XXVOL Still no tidings of the commander in chief, or the convoy. A trading fhip arrives from Glafgow. Anxiety difplayed cuhen any veffel enters Carlifle Bay. Privateers captured. A detachment of troops fent to Grenada. Uncertainty of all expeditions by fea. Black corps formed at Barbadoes, Negroes of the French colonies betray all the levity and vivacity of the French charatter. Dry feafon at Barba- does. Heat of the climate. Sugge tion that it might be. politic to fend out the hofpitals, barracks, and other build ings, previous to the failing of the treops. Flofpztals erected at St. Annes hill. Troops in the tranfports unhealthy. Moon-light view of acoco-nut grove, near Bridge-Town. Carlifle Bay, Feb. 29, Ir proves that we might have lengthened our Marooning excurfion, without any interrup- tion from the fear of being hurried away to St. Domingo. © Scarcely any veffels arrived in the bay during our abfence, and very few have -gome in fince our return. Our folicitude, concerning the commander in chief and the convoy, is ftill undiminifhed. One thip left. them in one latitude, another in another, one ) oa parted from the fleet in the bay of Bilcay, - another off Portugal, a third off the coaft of Africa, and others in different latitudes, Some fuppofe the convoy to have put in- to Lifbon, fome fay Gibraltar, and others various other ports. Allis ftill enveloped in a cloud of uncertainty ; nor are we without our fufpicions that the fleet may yet be nearer to you than it is to Barbadoes, and, indeed, this would feem probable from the extraordi- nary delay of the packets, not one having ar- rived {ince we came into harbour. Amidftall - our apprehenfions we ftill hope, and ftill, in daily expectation, look for their arrival. One veffelhas at length reached Barbadoes, which failed fubfequent to ourfelves. Itisa Gla{gow trader, and although from a remote port, you will judge what multitudes thronged on board, asfoon as fhe entered the harbour, to afk fornews. She brings papers of January, and we are much gratified to learn that the admiral had written to England, fo late as the fourth of that month, faying that he had, then, with him one hundred and eleven fail; but we are forry to find that a part of the convoy had been again compelled to put back, and we read, 380 with trembling apprehenfion, that fifteen vef- fels were known to have been difmafted, or ‘ otherwife difabled—all of which, it is to be feared, may not have reached even a fafe port athome. Later than this date, the papers con- tain no news of the convoy : nor have we any through any other channel. At this very interefting period of fufpenfe, if a ftrange vefiel enters the bay, the whole harbour becomes a crowded and moving fcene, | in confequence of almoft every fhip fending off a boat to feek tidings of the fleet. You, who can feel for our folicitude, will compafiio- nate our difappointment, when we happen to - find thatthe flranger is not dire& from England. This frequently occurs, and we return load- ed with chagrin. Of two fhips which have been this day thronged with eager vifitors, ane proved to be from Newfoundland with fith, | and the other from the coaft of Africa with - flaves—confequently neither of them knew fo much of England or the convoy as ours felves. ! News has juft reached Barbadoes that fome of our frigates have captured feveral privas 381 teets off Trinidad. This is peculiarly impor tant at the prefent moment, as multitudes of our defencelefs tranfports are fcattered over thefe feas, in fearch of which hofts of arm- ed cruifers have been fitted out by the ene= my. : : I am forry to tell you that information of an unpleaiant nature has reached us from Gre- nada, in confequence of which it has been deemed expedient to embark a body of troops en board the Expedition armée en fiute, and other {maller veflels, to fend to the relief of that ifland, without waiting for the arrival of the commander in chief, Could it have been forefeen, that the re- mainder of the convoy would have been de- tained {o many weeks behind us, the troops which have been accumulated at Barbadoes might have been beneficially employed in re- {toring tranquillity to our difordered iflands, and, perhaps, have been ftill in time to have joined in the great, and more combined ob- je& of the expedition. But it is not given _to humanity to forefee events, and the fad dif afters of this formidable armament only tend 384 to prove the extreme uncertainty which muft ever attend our expeditions. The plan may be conéerted with wifdom ; all the neceflaries amply provided; and the force, on failing, fully adequate tothe intended purpofes : yet, after all, the lamentable uncertainty of the elements will often fruftrate the beft and wifef{ arrangements. If an army be deftined to march, by land, to any given fpot, it may be calculated, with confiderable accuracy, in what number, and at what period it fhall ar- rive; and, with ftill greater certainty, any given quantity of ftores and provifions may be-tran{- ported with it: but no fuch accuracy can ~ be attained where the high-road is the fea, and the tracklefs path to be traced by the capricious and inconftant winds. We have an encampment of negroes formed near to Bridge-Town, upon a {pot call- ed Conftitution-hill, They are a fine body -of men, who have been enlifted from the re= volted French iflands, or brought away on, the evacuation of them by our troops. They — _ are active and expert, and are training into a — formidable corps to affift in our intended ex peditions, About fixteen hundred of them — a4 383 bear arms; befides whom there are twelvé ‘hundred to be employed as pioneers. They have all the vivacity and levity of the French character about them ; and it, occafionally, af- fords us amufement to obferve the Barbadoes negroes regard them with evident amazement, gaping with wonder at their volatility and alertnefs, John Bull differs not more widely from a Parifian petit-maitre than many of the - Barbadoes flaves from the fable fops of this {prightly corps. It is now the dry feafon of the year at Barbadoes, and if you have imbibed the fame idea of a tropical climate which I remember to have once felt, you will learn, with furprife, ‘that very few days have pafled, fince our ar- rival, without a refrefhing fhower of rain. The heatis far more fupportable than we had expected. The thermometer, at - noon, is commonly about 80, and very feldom exceeds 82; we have not yet feen itabove 84. It happens, fortunately, that fome of the fhips, laden with the temporary hofpitals, made in England, have arrived in Carlifle Bay, and, likewile, a few of the men belonging to 384 thecorps of artiftcers; who, together with fome creole and negro carpenters, are actively em~ ployed in fitting and putting up thefe frames with all poflible expedition: but much of hurry and difficulty might have been avoided had the hofpitals, the barracks, and other buildings been fent out in time to have been ereCed be- fore any of the troops, or any divifion of the moving part of the expedition arrived. The confufion that muft neceffarily arife from the arrival of the foldiers, of the build- ings requiring to be erected, and of all the va- rious departments, at the fame moment, mutt be felf-evident; and it will readily appear, from the hurried and numerous claims each. department will have upon the artificers, that _ many of the requifites attaching to the hofpi- tals may not be completed, before the more preffing cccafion for them has ceafed, on ac- count of the removal of the troops to diftant flations. Prefent experience may convey an ufeful leffon. From the great exertions now making we hope very foon to have hofpital room at St. Anne’s Hill for, atleaft, a thoufand fick, and 1» 385 am forty to remark, from the unhealthy ftate in which fome of the tranfports have alrea- dy arrived, that it feems likely we may have occafion for it all ; but we have the further ac- commodation of hofpital fhips, fhould they be required, and have, therefore, the profped of feeing all the fick comfortably placed, and amply provided with fuch neceflaries as their unfortunate ftaie may demand. This, to a medical officer, is a circumftance of no trivial import. To the fervice it is likewife effential : but, fpeaking as an individual, I know of few things that could be fo truly diftrefling to a man of feeling and humanity, as to behold a crowd of brave and fuffering foldiers lying - deftitute of the comforts and accommodations required in ficknefs; and you will believe | that I have very fincere gratification in finding that I am not likely to be expofed to this ‘painful neceffity. In a moon-light walk from St. Anne’s hill to Bridge-Town, after our vifit at the hofpital, our attention was lately very power= fully arrefted by the ftriking appearance of a gently waving grove of coco nut trees, at the fide of the road. From the brightnefs of the VOL, I. cc 386 moon, the peculiar form of the trees, and the dead ftillnefs of the night, we were fuddenly. ftruck with the grandeur and folemnity of the {cene ; ;nor do I know that my eye was ever attracted to one fo divinely foft and fepulchral, On beholding it, I was fixed in penfive con- templation. The trees grew nigh, one to ano- ther, and the naked trunks formed fo many fiately pillars, fupporting their palmated fum- mits, which, firetching to meet each other, afflumed the femblance of extenfive aifles of Gothic arches. -The whifpering breeze gently waved the leaves in foothing undu- lation, while the deep and dark-fhading fo- liage {hut out the filver moon-beams, leav- ing only an occafional folitary ray, to fteal in here and there, at partial openings, to in-' creafe the intereft and relieve the plaintive. gloom. A contemplative mind could not fail to be enamoured with the foft melancholy of the fcene. It produceda kind of folemn, and tender enchantment ; the effect of which was highly increafed from the broad fea appearing below the grove, whofe waters, in all, the full- nefs of night, bearing the trembling beams of the moon upon their furface, moved in gen- tle murmurs to the fhore, and broke in whil- it ae 357 pers, {carcely to be heard, upon the fands- Never was fpot more calculated to fill the mind with fublime and tender impreffions ! It feemed the fit abode of filence, and of fleep —a facred fhade where the child of forrow | might {weetly indulge his grief, liften to the fympathetic ruftlings that whifpered to his fighs, and pour forth, in refleGtion and peni- tence, the genuine effufions of the heart : <¢ What folemn folitude around ! Here Nature’s true fublime is found : Hence thought fhould travel to the fky.” It was a penfive and fequeftered retirement, where a forrowing and heart-rended lover might indulge a full feat of foul, in offering his devotions at the tomb of a loft miftrefs: for, amidft fuch fcenes, the mind fprings from its manfion of clay, to range in plaintive co- gitation and delight: it feafts in rapturous melancholy, and, dwelling in folemn thought, is elevated above itfelf. Filled with fublime | contemplation, the fpirit is unmindful of its earthly chains, and the foul, abforbed in great- nefs, foars to its peaceful and heavenly manfion. above. - C C2 LETTER XXIX, Author claims the freedom of * noting” upon all fubjects- Polite and learned pra€litioners in medicine at Barbadoes. The contrary. Anecdote of a Barbadoes medicafter. Re- marks upon the fatal confeguences of allowing every pretender to range at large in the medical profeffion. Embpirics and patents. New Tavern at Bridge-Town. Mode of fepara ting the feeds from cotton. Barbadoes method of carrying children. Suggeftion whether it may not be preferable to the Englifh method. A fpecimen of the bitter hardjbips of flavery. 7 -Barbadoes, March. I being ftipulated that all fubjeéts of re- mark are to find place in my Notes, you will not reproach me with the diffentient term “ Parith bufinefs,” if an _occafional fentence fhould chance to fteal in upon the topic of medicine. Indeed you have defired it fhould be fo, and this, at once, prevents the neceffity of apology. | You will have collected, from what I have faid before, that there are Gentlemen in’ the 389 - medical profeffion in Barbadoes, who are, equally, an honor to their profeffion, and an ornament to fociety, and I may here repeat. that many fuch are to be met with in the ifland. But it is an unhappy truth that there are others who are only pre-eminent in igno- | rance, for, alas ! practitioners in medicine may be found in this ifland, who, in learning and manners, are not far removed above the flaves. They are more illiterate than you can believe, and the very negro doétors of the eftates too juftly vie with them in medical knowledge. It has happened to us to fee, among them, men, who inftead of having the care of the health and lives of their fellow-fubjeGs, ought not to be entrufted to compound a pill, or a bolus. Atyro, advanced only a year or two jn his apprenticefhip, in England, is far bet- ter inflructed in his profeffion, than fome of the foi-difans and practifing projficients of _ Barbadoes. Totally unprepared with a claf- fical education, and, indeed, wholly devoid of the very rudiments of literature, they indolently wafte a few years, in the houfe, or idly looking out at the fhop-window of fome uneducated apothecary of the ifland, and thén in all the bold confidence of ignorance, — Cc 3 . 390 they commence DoGors, feeling themfelvesfully — qualified, without profeffional reading, without viliting the fchools of Europe, without expe- rience, and I might fay; without thought, or judgment, to undertake the cure of all the direful maladies which affliGt the human frame; —in fhort, without one neceflary qualification do thefe creole pretenders feel themfelves com-— petent to exercile all the various branches of the healing art. Cleghorn, Mafter, and myfelf called, late- ly, at the fhop of one of the practitioners of this clafs, to purchafe fome Peruvian bark, when we found our brother doétor difpofed to be facetious and communicative ; and prone to talk with equal confidence and loquacity. His bark, he affured us, was “* of the beft,” for. he had plenty. of the “¢ Cort. Peruv. optimum, and had.“ advertifed it for fale,” although he “ never ufed it for his patients ;’— adding to this very liberal and laudable avowal “ I have alfo the Cort. Peruv. common, but I never write now for the Cort. Peruv. /econd: for- merly I did, and the druggifts cheated me, but I-have found them out, and now make the Cort. Peruv. fecond myfelf. I mix a little of _ ad i the Cort. Peruv. optimum, with the Cort. Peruv. common, and fo make Cort. Peruv. fecond,* and in this way gain the money myfelf which, before, I foolifhly paid to the druggilts in | Eng- land.” This man who, independent of a total want of profeffional knowledge, avowedly, and from the moft fordid motives, never adminiftered to his patients.a fingle grain of that bark, which (even in proper cafes for its exhibition) was moft likely to prove beneficial,—¢his man is a bufy practitioner in Bridge-Town, and is’ efteemed the great Hippocrates, the family doétor, and the confidential, and prime guar- dian of health to many of the inhabitants of Barbadoes ! 1 In all climates, a found judgmert, and an acutenefs of difcrimination, together with a correct knowledge of the human frame, are neceflary to the fuccefsful treatment of dif- eafes : but in the Weft Indies, where the attack * It were much to be withed, that the vendors of drugs , had not difcovered a {till worfe means of adulterating this mott valuable medicine, Cc 4 392 is frequently fudden, and the progrefs deftruc- tively rapid, if the malady be negleéted or badly treated, in its incipient ftage, medicine becomes inefficient, and, too often, the difeafe cannot be fubdued by all the art of the wifeft Phyfician.— How lamentable, then, is it that fuch ignorant medicafters as our ‘* Cort Peruv. optimum” fhould be entrufted, and particu- larly in a tropical region, with the health and lives of multitudes of their fellow-beings. a8 When we reflect that the riches and profperity of a country conneét, moft inti- mately, with its population, and» ‘that. the lives of men are of the higheft importance to the ftate, it becomes matter of furprife and aftonifhment, that, even in the remotett colony, fuch pretenders fhould be permitted t to difgrace the healing art. Ifthat wife principle “ falus populi fuprema lex,” be correét, and I fufpeét it cannot be difputed, the health of the people muft be a fubject of prime confideration in the eye of every government ;—how then are we to account for the apathy which permits - fuch dangerous doors to wield the deftrudtive lance, or, how fhall we explain the mifcalcu- — Jating policy which not only tolerates a tre- _ 393 _ nendous hoft of empirics, but fuffers them to overrun every part of the ftate, under the all- creating fanétion of a patent, or allows them, on the bare privilege of bold aflurance, to com- mit depredations upon the health, the purfes, and the lives of His Majefty’s fubjects? You will recollect the name of “ Betfy Lemon” the refpectable mulatto whom I for- _ merly mentioned to you as the leading fupport of the Bar at Mary Bella Green’s, and you will be pleafed to learn that fhe is releafed from the toils of flavery, and placed in a more in- dependent fituation, where fhe may become eftablifhed as an ufeful and refpetable member of the community. She has opened a new tavern at Bridge-Town, where we have made a party of encouragement, to take a dinner, and drink to the fuccefs of the hoftefs; and, from the accommodations we met with, I may add, that, fhould any more of your friends fol- low us to Barbadoes, you may affure them of attention and good treatment at the houfe of Betfy Lemon. In one of our late walks, near Bridge- Town, we met with two fmall windmills, ~ 394 erected for the purpofe of clearing the cotton from its feeds ; and, as they happened to be in motion we availed ourfelves of the opportu- nity of waiting a fhort time, to witnefs the pro- cefs. The cotton, when pulled from the fou, ., envelopes the feeds, forming the matrix in which they grow and are embedded ; andit 1s, feparated from them by being caufed to pais through the bite of two {mall metallic rollers, placed horizontally, one over the other, and turned by the ation of the mill. Thcfe pail- ing round, near to each other, are fed with the cotton, which they take in, without receiving the feeds, leaving them to fall to the ground, or into a bafket below, while the cotton, drawn between the rollers, pafles through and is ejected into a box on the oppofite fide. The procefs is fo entirely fimple that it might be performed equally well by a fmaller inftru- ment worked with the hand, or the foot, and which we are told is the method practifed in © many parts of the Weft Indies. Among the novelties which meet the eye of an European upon his arrival at Barbadoes, or probably in any of the Weft India iflands, is the practice of carrying the children acrofs 395 the hip, inftead of feating them upon the arm, _ The lower clafs of white women, in Barbadoes, have adoped this cuftom, from the example of the negroes, among whom it feems to be the univerfal mode of nurfing ; and, perhaps, it would admit of argument, whether this method be not preferable to the European cuf- tom of carrying them upon the arm. Seated upon the hip, the infant foon learns to cling, ‘and in a great meafure to fupport itfelf; but, placed upon the arm, it muft always remain a helplefs or dead weight upon the mother, being without the power of aflifting itfelf, or reliev- ing its pofition. Further, itis fo conveniently placed when upon the hip, that the mother can fupport it with much greater facility, for by only putting the arm behind it, the child can lie back, or reft and change its pofture in various ways: thus the weight becomes lefs fa- ‘tiguing tothe mother, and perhaps leis inju- rious to the infant ; for, at this tender age, the long bones of the thigh, not being firmly offified, are liable to yield, and a degree of de-, tormity may be induced, from their being made to bear the whole weight of the body, at long and frequent periods, upon fo narrow a feat as the arm. | / 396 Trivial as this fubject might appear to © fome, it is worthy the ferious confideration of Britifh mothers, and nurfes. A deformed ne- gro is avery rare object,and this may probably be attributed, in great meafure, to the manner of nurfingthem in their infancy; for, befides the better mode of carrying them, they have the further advantage of being allowed to crawl about upon their hands and feet, in perfec freedom, unreftrained by ligatures, or tee garments. Although I have obferved the mode of carrying children upon the hip to be the com- mon method of nurfing among the flaves, yet, when they have to carry them to a great dif- tance, they neither place them upon the hip, nor the arm, but upon the back; and I have, frequently, been furprized to obferve by what ~ flight fupport they fecufe them in this fitua- tion. A mere pocket handkerchief, tied care- lefsly round the mother, often forms all their feat, and all their fafety ! A few eveningsago I had the affli€ling op- portunity of witneffinga {cene of cruelty, which {ftrongly exemplified the abjeét, and wretched- \ 397 ly humiliating condition to which human be- ings are fubjected in a life of flavery. I hap- pened to be waiting upon the quay for the Lord Sheffield’s boat, in order to return on board, when two men, apparently white creo- les, came up, and feized a negro, who was ftanding near me, accufing him of having run away from his mafter. The poor black af- fured them that he had no mafter,—that he belonged to Mrs. , that he was well known in the town,—and that they muft, cer- tainly, have miftaken his perfon; and, upon thefe grounds, urged the impropriety of their taking him to prifon. But, regardlefs of his ~ remonftrances, and of their own error, they tied him with a heavy cord, faftened his hands, and forced him towards the place of confine- ment! Curiofity led me to follow them. The ‘poor man ftili pleaded his innocence, and the miftake they had committed, begging and pray- ing to be allowed to referthem to his Mil- trefs, or to another family in the town, to iden- tify his perfon. Heedlefs of his proteftations and entreaties they ftill dragged him on, and from his only exprefling a reluCtance at being thus, unjuftly, hurried to a prifon, one of thefe hardened wretches ftruck him a violent blow 398 on the head, with a large ftick, calling out to the other, in broad Barbadoes accent, ** Daa-am him, cut him down.” A little before they reached the prifon they had to pafs a door-way where there happened to be a ftrong light, by means of which one of thefe cruel inftruments of the law of force inftantly recognifed the poor iil- treated flave, and finding that they were actu- ally guilty of the miltake which the negro had ftated, he cailed out to his favage comrade, who had ftruck the helplefs black upon the head, “© Daa-am him, I know the fellow, we muft let him go,” upon which, they both, with horrid and dreadful imprecations, ordered him to ftand, wethout firring ,while they fhould untie him; and, upon his only moving his arm’to expedite the loofening of the cord, they {wore, that ifhe dared “to ftir, or look favage,’ they would “ cut him down,” or put him, ‘‘ direétly into prifon.” Such was the compenfation dealt him for the unjuft and cruel treatment he had already received. The wretches not only dragged the poor unoffend- ing flave to a prifon, in defiance of his folemn- affurances of their having miftaken his perfon, 9 399 ; and without allowing him an appeal to any one who knew him, but, becaufe he ventured to fay they were committing an error, had the inhumanity to ftrike him with a force fufh- cient to have fractured his fkull, and to threat- en him with the further feverity of death, or a dungeon, fhould he dare to exprefs only a look of difpleafure. What muft have been the feelings of this injured man? who, after being abufed and mal-treated, was further putin fear of his life, fhould he only permit nature to aflume her feat on his brow,—fhould the cruelty, pain, and injuftice he had fuffered, only caufe a mark of difapprobation to appear upon his counte- nance! But Nature, however profcribed, was notto bereftrained by fuchcommand! While the power of memory remains to me I can never— never forget the indignant, but hopelefs ex- preflion of injury which overfpread the features of this poor flave, as he retired !—He felt ag- erieved, and....... .-..wasconfcious that he had no remedy,—no appeal ! 4.00 LETTER XXX,” Author fends his friend a lift of the fips of the convoy which had reached Barbadoes. Aveffel from Liverpool arrives in Carlifle Bay. The body of the feet fiill wandering up- onthe ocean. Packet flill delayed. Cork divifion found te be at Cove long after it was reported at fea. Probability of the author and his comrades being employed, in confequence of the increafing number of fick. Carlifle- Bay difiurbed by Pre/s-ganys. Confufion created by the failors of one of the tranfports refifting them. The Lord Sheffield viftted by two gangs in one night. | Barbadoes March g- IT occurs to me that, amidft all the uncertain- ties of our unfortunate fleet, it may be pleafant to you and others of our friends to know which of the fhips have made good the -paf- fage,I, therefore, fend you the annexed lift of upwards of fixty, which are now fafe at anchor in Carlifle Bay. A veffel from Liverpool is come into harbour, which failed on the gth of January, — / 401 but we are fill without any late news of the fleet, which failed on the 9th of December; and, fingular to tell, the Liverpool fhip, now arriv- ed, made the whole paflage without happen- ing to fall in with any one of the convoy. We learn that, previous to her failing from port, the Admiral had again written to Eng- land, mentioning that ninety fail full re- mained with him, at the date of his let- ter; but that, from the repeated gales they had met with, he feared the others had been obliged to put back difabled. It would feem, from this, that he has no idea of fo con-_ fiderable a number having reached Barbadoes. We, who are here, obferving on the other } hand that very heavy and bad-failing veffels have made their paflage, are furprized what can fo long have detained the remainder of the convoy; and what can be the caufe why we are fo long without any dire& and accurate intelligence of its fituation. It is now thir- teen weeks fince the fleet left England, and we know about as much concerning the great body of it, at this moment, as if it were failing in the moon. | VOL, I. D D 402 Weare fadly anxious for the arrival of a packet, and of newfpapers, neither the fhip from Glafgow, nor that from Liverpool having brought more than one or two papers of the few days preceding their departure. We look for them in feries, and expect quite a feaft of de- light from the pernfal. Debarred from the news of our own country, and the old world, we have occafionally been much gratified by reading the American paperys, brought by veflels which have arrived with ftores and pro- vifions from the United States. ? We, who are deftined to proceed to St. Domingo, have new difappointment in finding that the Cork divifion, intended for that ifland, had not failed ata date many weeks fubfequent to the time it had been reported at fea; and hence we feel it probable that we may even yet be long delayed: nor does it feem un- likely, that, before we depart, we may be cal- led on duty at Barbadoes, in confequence» of the increafing number of fick, and the non-ar- : rival of the medical officers of the Charibbee- Ifland, or what, with flrange incorre@tnefs, has been called the Leeward-Ifland ftaft. 403 You will, perhaps, be furprifed to know that the tranfports in Carlifle bay have been feveral times interrupted, and the whole har- bour difturbed, and brought into a ftate of con- fufion, by the vifitings of different prefs-gangs, in the exercife of that neceflary cuftom, fo re- pugnant to the feelings, and the freedom of Englifhmen. In sone inftance an alarming fcene took place in confequence of the failors of one of the fhips refifting this arbitrary and uncon- ftitutional method of obtaining their fer- vices. They oppofed the boarding, and beat off the agent, and two boats with the prefs- gang. This refiftance was foon followed by the appearance of a party of foldiers, with fire- locks and fixed bayonets, who had been call- ed upon to aid the prefs-gang, and to force the failors to f{ubmiffion. Upon feeing the troops approach, thus formidably armed, the failors jumped into the fhip’s boat, and made the beft of their way towards the fhore. ‘The prefs- gang and two or three boats, filled with armed foldiers, purfued them. A general fenfation of alarm overf{pread the harbour, and it was fear- ed that much blood would be fhed. Every . BD D 2 ) : 4.04 vellel was thronged with {peCators, an univer fal impulfe was excited, and feelings of anxiety feemed to pofiefs every mind. The failors ma- noeuvred beftin the race. They gained head- way at every pull of their oars, and made the fhore at a point beyond the reach of the foldiers and their mufquets. Several fhots were fired at them in vain; and upon their landing,a loud and general fhout infantly {pread around; which feemed to be involuntary, but was ftrongly ex- prefliveof the with of the multitude that the fail- ors might efcape. Theironly hope was in flight, _ and fome of them had the good fortune to elude the activity and vigilance of their purfuers ; but the foldiers proved to be more fuccefsful in the chafe, on fhore, than they had been in the boats, for a party of the failors was _ brought back a fhort time after, under a {trong euard, and compelled to fubmit to this law of force. It has been our fortune on board the Lord Sheffield to be difturbed by two different parties of the prefs-gang in the courfe of the fame night: one of which came alongfide at _midnight,—the other at two o'clock in the morning, From ftealing upon us unexpected- */ 405 ly, andin the dark, you will fuppofe that much hurry and confufion was created. Being wakened by the noife and running of people over my head, I put on my robe de chambre, and went up to learn the caufe, when, finding it to be the prefs-gang, I felt a {trong difpo- fition to obferve their condu@ and manner of proceeding, and therefore remained upon deck, during the whole time they continued on board. A Lieutenant of the navy was flalking up and down witha huge drawn fabre in his hand, calling out, with boatfwain’s iungs, for the fteward to bring upa light. His men were running about every part ofthe fhip armed with cutlaffes, piftols, hangers, and various other weapons, and inftruments of death. Such of the failors of the fhip whom they found upon deck, were inftantly tumbled in- — to a boat at the fide, filled with armed men. ‘The others fecreted themfelves in holes and - corners, while the old fteward with feeming hafte, but with fox-like cunning, delayed the light. Perhaps you will fay it wasa little fe- vere to demand a light, at all, from the fhip, in order to rob her of her own men ; but the | ‘PD3 406 whole proceeding was alike arbitrary and de- {potic, and this only confiftent with the other parts of it. ‘They had come in darknefs, and with muffled oars, that they might take the vef- fel by furprife, and ‘were unable to profecute their fearch, into the remote and concealed parts of the fhip, without the aid of light. _ The fteward, fomewhat endangered from the ire he had provoked by his well-contrived delay, at length appeared with the lantern ; and a general fearch was immediately made be- low. Thecabins,—the cable-tier,—the pan- tries,—the lockers—the very pig-fty,—every hole and corner they could think of were hunt- ed out, and they feemed refolved that not a fpot fhould be omitted. Yet, notwithftanding all their vigilance, feveral of the failors contrived to elude the fearch. One, who had not time to efcape to a place of more probable fecuri- ty, remained quietly in his hammock, and, when they came to examine it, affected to a- wake uttering aloud groan, ftrongly expreflive of pain and fuffering. Hearing this the prefs- gang afked who it was, and if a failor, The mate, who was watching them with a vigil ance not inferior to their own, immediately res 407 plied that it was a fick man, who had been long confined to his birth. His promptitude. was fuccefsful : fick men they did not want ; and the failor was left undifturbed—his free~ dom the fruit of his well-timed ftratagem, and of. the expertnefs ofthe mate in promoting it. The fecond party came more openly, and without obferving the fame fillnefs of ap- proach, confequently all the failors who were likely to fuit them, were fecreted before they could reach the deck; and from the mate re- celving them frankly, and afluring them that they were too late in their vifit, in confe- quence of their comrades having but juft pre- ceded them, and taken away the greater part ofthe fhip’s company, they did not fubje& the veffel to fo minute and prying a fearch, but, after looking generally round the fhip, went quietly away without a man. | 408 LETT ER, XK Senate houfe, and general affembly of Barbadoes. Punch and Sangaree a pleafant part of the debate. Altercation in the court of Chancery. Interefting party dine with the mefe of the Lord Sheffield. Hazardous efcape of two Englifh- men from confinement. Honorable conduct of . Victor. Hugue’s fecretary. Remarks on bribery and corruption— on patriotifm. Self-love, and the love of fame Jfironger. incentives to aélion than love of country. | / Barbadoes, March 15. I NOW take up my pen, to you after ma- king a vifitto the fenate houfe, and being prefent at a fitting of the general aflembly of the ifland. The proceedings were con- duéted according to the routine of our Houfe of Commons, which the aflembly regards as its model. ‘The reprefentatives, like ours, are returned from the provinces, two, not, in- deed, from each county, but from each parith : and, there being eleven parifhes in the ifland, the affembly, confequently, confifts of twenty- two members. : | As in our houfe, fo in theirs, the perfon who ptefides is denominated—‘ the fpeaker” 409 —the hearer had perhaps been more cor- rect, as he happens to be the only perfon who is precluded from fpeaking in the debate, and is appointed, for the exprefs purpofe of hearing all others, who, through him, addrefs their arguments to the houfe. _ Among the members we recognized fe- veral of the gentlemen whom we had. feen in our marooning excurfion into the country, It did not happen to be a fitting of great intereft to firangers, there being but little before the houfe for difcuffion, and, confe~ quently, few debates. Reading and paffing | a militia a@, and fome other bills, confti- tuted nearly the whole bufinefs of the meet- ing. One part of the proceedings, however, we thought to be ftridtly in the -- - - order of the day. It was exceflively warm, and we — were fadly parching with thirft, when two per- fons fuddenly appeared with a large bowl, and _atwo quart glafs filled with punch and fanga- ree. Thefe were prefented to ‘ Mr. Speaker’ who, after dipping deep into the bowl, pafled it among the members: nor was the audience forgotten, for we were moft gratefully taught that the hofpitality, fo univerfal in the ifland, _ liyes eyen inthe fenate, The glafs was handed 4.10 up to us, and we found that it was cor- reQtly im order for ftrangers to join in this part of the debate. It came at a moment pe- culiarly opportune, and we drank deeply and cordially to our, friends, and the houfe of aflembly. The court of Chancery, with the go- vernor as prefident, was fitting in a chamber above, and, fuddenly, a loud clamour, indica- ting difeord and confufion, was heard from that quarter; we, therefore, left the houfe of aflembly and afcended to the upper houfe, in the defire of afcertaining what could poffibly have caufed fuch turbulent proceedings ; when we found this auguft affembly totally ab- forbed in a quarrel between two of its members, | who had interrupted the bufinefs of the fitting, and diverted the attention of the houfe exclu- fively to their perfonal difpute. Each remained obftinately inflexible, with regard to the re- quired acknowledgment, and neither could be brought to any terms of conceffion ; hence, | after a long interruption, it proved that the © houfe had only to leave it to be fettled as a perfonal quarrel, according to the feelings of the parties. Perhaps it had been more con- fiftent had the court, from the firft, mains A1T tained its own dignity, and not fuffered its proceedings to have yielded to a perfonal al- tercation within its own walls, which, there, _ it might have prevented, but which between the individuals it had not the power to con- trol. ‘There appeared no profped of a recon- ciliation between the parties, nor of the har- | mony of the court being fufficiently re-efta- blifhed for.the bufinefs of the meeting to be re- fumed; we therefore left them, in order to purfue our further engagements. You wiil be pleafed to know that we have, lately, had a very interefting party to dine with us on board the Lord Sheffield ; among whom were three gentlemen who had recently returned from imprifonment—one from France, the others from Guadaloupe. The narrative of their confinement and treat- ment, together with fome anecdotes of perfons whom they had about them, afforded us much amufement, and gave to their details a high degree of intereft. One of the gentlemen, who had been ta- ken to Guadaloupe, was confined on board a 4.12 prifon fhip, with feveral others of our coun- | trymen, where, being treated with great ri- gour, and fed with a very feanty allowance of ~ bad food, he entered into a confidential agree-~ ment, with one of his fellow-prifoners, to con- cert fome means of efcape; and, one day, feeing a boat, convenient for their purpofe, | come to the fhip, they ftepped over the fide of the veffel, and defcending fuddenly into it, as it lay alongfide, immediately threw . overboard three of the five negroes, who were in it, and compelled the other two to take up their oars, and affiftin rowing them away. The fuccefs of this perilous enterprife was equal to the boldnefs with which it was undertaken. .Thefentinels fired at them in vain: being once clear of the fhip they pulled the oars with vigour, and, encouraging the blacks to their aid, were foon out of reach. Neither boats, nor bullets were able to over- take them: they were quickly at fea, in their open fkiff, and, gladly, entrufted themfelves to the mercy of the elements. The weather favored them, and they foon made a port: of fafety in a Britifh ifland. 453 The manner in which the other gentie- man who had been confined in Guadaloupe obtained his releafe was alfo attended with peculiar, and ftrongly marked circumftances. Having an opportunity of {peaking with the fecretary of Victor Hugues, he reprefented to him in ftrong colours the very ferious per- fonal injury his confinement might bring upon him, and urged the abfolute impoffibility of his releafe being injurious to any indivi- dual of the French nation, fupporting his appeal with the offer of a fum nearly equal to 1200l. fterling, to be paid ax citoyen _fecre- taire, provided he would contribute his aid in obtaining him and two of his friends per- miffion to leave the ifland. The fecretary rejected the offer with difdain, expreffing both anger and aftonifhment that he fhould dare to imagine that he was capabable of being feduced by a bribe; adding that “ for merly Frenchmen were venial and might be bought ; but now, citoyen, we are republicans! and a good republican requires not a bribe to encourage him to the execution of his duty,’ nor is capable of being, thereby, impelled to commit a breach of it.’ He, never- thelefs, liftened with attention to the pecu= 414 liar feverity of the cafe, and having heard the particulars, appeared to feel a degree of in- tereft regarding the hardfhips that were repre- fented. Upon leaving the gentleman he faid he would try to intercede in his behalf; and intimated a hope that he might be able in the courfe of a week to communicate fome report to him. A few days only had elapfed when the fecretary returned, bringing with him the pri- foner’s releafe, which he prefented to him, with felicitations, expreffing himfelf hap- py in being the means of his regaining his liberty, and, peremptorily, refufing to ac- cept, even the flighteft compliment for the fervice he had rendered him. , Would all men a& thus, my friend, of how little confequence were it whether they were denominated republicans, ariftocrats, or royalifts! What the form of government, or who fhould rule the land, could be of little confequence, were honor and virtue made the rulers of men’s ations. Speaking from the warm feelings of the heart a very-elegant writer has faid, “I cannot be more con- vinced of the truth of any demonftration in Fuclid than Iam that that fy{tem of politics 415 muft be beft by which thofe I love are made happy”—but, perhaps, it might be faid, with {till greater correCtnefs, that that /yfiem of government muft be beft, where virtue, among the people, moft prevails. It is idle to declaim againft a government, while individuals—while even ¢thofe who complain have not virtue enough to with- ftand the feducing lures of corruption! Let the people be virtuous, and the government will never be corrupt. Were men to refift bribery, and to expofe their feducers to pub- lic reproach, few attempts would be made upon their independence. But alas! even thofe who are loudeft in railing againft corruption, _ but too commonly, when the magic wand ap- proaches ¢hemfelves evince that it was not virtue raifed their voices! Too often the difordered appetite, which calls aloud for the high condiments of privation and patriotifm, feelsno naufeafrom a change of diet, but finds all its acrid gnawings {peedily appeafed by a well-drefled dith of -- -- - loaves and jifhes ! ~ Perhaps it may be doubted whether a true patriot, in the full extent of the term, ever exifted, that is, aman who could feel him= felf fo devoutly and abftractedly a patriot as, wholly, to forego every perfonal confideration, and devote himfelf exclufively to his country. Individuals, in convention, may confent to give up a portion of their perfonal | rights, for | the general good, and for the fuperior ad- vantages accruing to themfelves, in fociety : but, perhaps, no man can love his country better than himfelf, or become fo pure a pa- triot as to facrifice his perfonal eafe, his com- fort, his happinefs, and even his life, from a fondnefs for the foil whereon he was born. Self-love would feem a more powerful and more effential principle of our nature than love of our country, and, without fore- going this great leading principle, a man may be a very good patriot.—They are in no degree incompatible, and, confiftent with the duties he owes himfelf, a man may poflefs enough of patriotic virtue to call forth all the — high duties demanded of him by his country. The love of fame, as a branch of felf- love, is a much ftronger principle of action than patriotif{m, and-may lead to acts, whence 4i7 the country is highly benefitted, and which from intimacy of connexion, when only fuperficially examined, may appear to artfe from patriotifm alone. Perhaps the greateft deeds of the moft renowned patriots, whether of ancient or modern times, could the princi- ple from which they were derived be fairly traced, or the fecret motives which caufed them be fully difclofed, would be found to have arifen, not barely from a patriotic feeling, | but, in a ftill greater degree, from that power- ful and infatuating pafion—the love of fame. Could thofe modern great men, or thofe ~ heroes of antiquity, who are faid to have died. for their country, have been fully made to be- lieve that from the moment they ceafed to breathe their names would never again be heard, or uttered—that. their remembrance would at no future moment find piace In the minds of their friends or defcendants, or in the annals of their country; and that their deeds would be. inflantly forgotten, and blot- ted out in utter oblivion, it is more than probable they had never regarded ail the good their country. might derive irom the jacrihce as an equivalent for the lofs of life—and VOL. I. E°E 4. 18 that, confequently, thofe great aéts (faid to be) of patriotif{m had never pee known. It has been faid eee were there no uniform there would be no foldiers.” However — much this may be doubted, it will, perhaps, be lefs difputed, that if no perfonal honor or fame were to attach to thofe great deeds, which are faid to arife from patrioti{m, few would die from an abftraat love of country. — There is a happy fomething in our na- ture which leads all men to extol honorable ~ and virtuous actions, and to deprecate fuch as are corrupt and vicious: however de- raved himfelf, there is a certain upright con- du which, in others, even the moft diffolute does and muft approve! Every one, my. friend, will efeem the conduét of the republi- can fecretary, which has led me to fatigue you with thefe remarks. Alas! that every one would learn to imitateit! Then might thefe dire political contefts ceafe’; and then — were it unimportant to Europe and the world whether France fhall, finally, fucceed in efta- blifhing a republican government, or grow weary of blood-ftained faétion and. revert to a monarchy! | 419 LETTER XXXII. 4A packet arrives at Barbadoes. Carlifle Bay, and Bridge- Town one great fcene of confufion. High feaft. of peru- jing the news-papers. The fleet fo long expected at Bar- badoes fiill in England. Seafon growing late for military operations. Report that honors are to be conferred on Ad= miral Chriftian for his great exertions in taking care of the convoy. Admiral Cornwallis expefied in the Weft Indies. Hope of peace vanifbed. Auftvian armies checked and defeated. Scarcity of corn and fpeciein England. Gre- nada in danger of being taken by the Brigands.—St. Vin- cent - = - = by the Charibs. A French fpy detected at Bar- badoes, Barbadoes, March 16. Wuat a day of hurry, confufion, and foli-_ citude! a packet has at length arrived! From December the oth, to March the 16th, have we been feparated from you without hearing one word of our friends, or {carcely of our country. How fhall I convey to you any juft idea of the fcene this day has produced by the impatient multitude crowding in anxious €a- gernefs to obtain letters, to fee the papers, and to hear the news! EE82 420 Early in the morning a fignal appeared at the fort, implying that a veffel was in fight. Soon afterwards, this was lowered down, and the packet fignal hoifted in its place ; when inftead of the pleafing expedtation of feeing a vellel of our fleet, and learning news of the convoy, all were on tiptoe in the ftill more lively hope of hearing news, not only of our unfortunate armada, but of Europe, of Eng- dand, and..... our friends! Concerning the fleet we had grown quite weary of conjecture, and now faw it probable that we might obtain more accurate intelligence refpeting it, by way of England, than by any fhip which had been feparated from it upon the paflage, : On the packet making the harbour. it caufed a crowd not unlike what you may have feen at a failing or rowing match of boats up- on the Thames. Each withing tq be firft, and allbeing anxious to learn the news, the veffel was befet on every quarter before fhe could come to anchor, and the whole bay became one animated fcene of crowded fhips and moving boats. Many who could not go tothe packet as fhe entered the harbour, repaired on — fhore to. be ready, there, to meet the news. ~ 42% \ The people of the town, alfo, thronged the beach in anxious multitudes. All was bufy expectation. Impatience fcarcely allowed the bags to reach the office: every avenue to which was fo clofely blockaded that the houfe was quite ina ftate of fiege, and the poft-mafter and his manfion in danger of being taken by {ftorm. I: was about eleven o'clock when the in- {pector general, Dr. Matter, and myfelf, follow- ingthe common tmpulfe, went to inquire for our letters and papers ; but we could only ad- vance within fight of the poft-office walls,— to approach the door was utterly impoffible. Finding the crowd to be ftill fo deep, we ram- bled about the town, and made calls upon various perfons in order to glean the news. We found that it was the firft January packet, which had arrived, and hence it could not be expected to bring the regular papers later than to the 6th of that month, although it failed fo late as the gth of February, having “been detained at Falmouth waiting for a fas. vorable wind. EE 3 422 Seeing no profpec of afcertaining whether we had any letters, we returned from the hot and crowded town to take our din- ners quietly on board, and te enjoy the high feaft of reading the papers, which our obliging and attentive friend, Mr. Hinde, had kindly allowed us to put into our pockets. You will believe that this formed a moft exquifite de- fert after our meal, and was of more grateful flavor than all the fruits and (weets of a tropi- eal foil. To an Englifhman a news-paper Is a ne- ver-failing fource of amufement ; and the high delight thence derived appears to be, in fome . meafure, peculiar to our nation. — If, therefore, even at home, and ina peaceful hour, it be a great pleafure to take up the Times or the Chronicle of the morning, I put it to your feelings to judge what muft have been our enjoyment, when I tell you that, at this wide diftance from our country, and after being long fhut in ignorance regarding it, we - have been quietly feated in the fhade of a cool cabin to perufe the papers in the regular feries of a whole fortnight. We remained for ieveral hours fecluded and in filence,— 3 423 each fearing to fpeak left he fhould dif- turb the others. In fancy I fee you watch-. ing our party—catching each glance of the eye as it runs anxioufly over every co- lumn—amufing yourfelf at the folemn ftillnefs that obtains among us—and fmiling at the -fudden ftart and flight paufe of interruption which occurs at the remoteft corner of the laft page, leading only to the delay of extending the arm for another paper. I fee you con-— templating the ideas pafling in our minds, and marking the varied expreflion upon our countenances as we pafs eagerly on from page to page! But all thefe feelings have been formerly your own; you will therefore know how to eftimate them. Had you not been already a traveller I could have wifhed you a long voyage that you might know the real value of a Morning Herald, or an evening Star—that you might enjoy the high flavor of a true Englith feaft, feafoned with ab- fence! Send out our friend * * * * that he | may be roufed from the apathy which fo dif- trefsfully encroaches upon his mechanical _ round of luxury and indulgence! Tell him that were he held in difappointed expectation, from day to day, through many anxious weeks, BE 4 424 Wi he would fad the amufements which he now > partakes with indifierence to be really exqui- fite : and affure him that the variety of occur- rences, during a temporary privation, might di- vert him from a life ef indolence and apall- ing pleafure, and convince him that many things he now difregards are capable of afford- . ing far more enjoyment, than the vapid time- killing routine of parading in Bond-Street,— treading upon muflin trains in the crowd of Kenfington Gardens,—and lounging at the play and the opera, without hearing five words of the performance ! We find the uncertainty, regarding our convoy, removed by the news we read, but not fo fatisfactorily as we had hoped; for we have the mortification to learn that the fleet, with which we failed from Spithead on the oth of December, and which, for fo long paft, we have anxioufly and hourly expected, inflead of being fafe with us, at Barbadoes, is lying quietly at anchor with you, in Eng- land! - ; ) From the papers it is: afcertained that the great body of the convoy, with our commander © 425 - in chief and the admiral, are returned to St. Helen’s, after continuing feven tedious weeks at fea, beating again{t contrary winds and de- - ftruGtive ftorms, and that many of the fhips, which had feparated, had previoully put back to Cork, Kinfale, Plymouth, and various other ports. Thisis very diftrefling and vexatious news, for it robs us of the pleafing hope with which we had daily looked out for our com- rades, and tells us that all ftill remains --- - to be done again! Twice has this great expedi- - tion put to fea, and during many months has it been, daily, expeCted to arrive‘ yet after a long and vivid fufpenfe do we now learn that itis fill inan Englith harbour, only pre- paring to fail! A voyage to the Haft Indies or to China “might be performed in lefs time than feemsto be required for this unhappy expedition to reach its deftination. It was expected to fail fo long fince as the month of September, and actually did put to fea in November, and again — on the gth of December ; and its arrival has been anxioufly looked for, by the people of the iflands, more than half a year! 4.26 The feafon is rapidly advancing—the milder temperature of the climate, and the more favorable period of the year are wearing away, and the wet months faft approaching: we fear, therefore, that all the ills to be apprehended from climate may now be expeéted in the midft of the campaign, or before the troops can well be brought into aétion. When or how the convoy is again to at- tempt the voyage we do not learn: but it feems to be the opinion, on your fide the wa- ', that the commander in chief will failin a | - izate without delay, and that the fleet will follow, in {mall divifions, as {peedilyas the fhips can be repaired and made ready for fea. This would undoubtediy be mofi advifable ; for the waiting to aflemble Be convoys, and the de- laysand accidents which neceflarily happen to . them, at fea, would feem to be the very bane of the entereiite: |...” “We are Qill told that the Cork divifion may be daily expected, yet we learn that it had not failed when the packet left Falmouth. From all we can collect it would feem proba- _- 427 ble that more than fix thoufand troops, and up- wards of fixty fhips, many long fince arrived, may have ftill to wait through another tedious period at Barbadoes. | | ‘ | We find it among the reports of the day — that honors are to be conferred onthe Admiral for braving the weather, during fo many weeks at fea, andreturning to port iv England with fo great a number of the convoy in fafety. On reading this the captain of our fhip wittily afk- ed—* What honors are thofe to receive, then, who fought through all the perilous ftorms, and have made good their paflage to a port Sein the We Indies 2?” Some fay that it is likely Admiral Chrif- tian will not again attempt this inaufpicious voyage, and that Admiral Cornwallis will take. command ofthe fleet when it next fails: but concerning this you wili have the beft informa= tion in England. Our prayers are that, let who will command, you will fend out the convoy, and not withhold from the troops their long-expeted, and much-honored chief. If ie are to give any credit to what we read in the papers it would feem that the pro- 428 {pect of peace is more remote than fome had ventured to hope. The Auftrians, we are for- ry to find, have been checked on the Rhine, and defeated under General de Vins in Pied- mont. Before we failed from England appear- ances were fomewhat pacific, and we were not without the hope of foon returning to our friends—indeed the delay in the departure of - the fleet had been explained, by many, upon the probability of an approaching peace! But things again look more hoftile, and it feems likely that our tropical fojourn may be of longer duration than was at firft expected. The papers we have received having, been printed during the Chriftmas holidays, furnith us with no parliamentary news ; but we learn from them, with much regret, that our country — experiences a fcarcity of corn, and of {pecie. Without money, and without bread John Bull would make war very badly indeed! Wheat we find is at the extravagant price of thirteen fhillings per bufhel, and bread as high as _ thirteen-pence half-penny the quartern loaf. This, we fear, may create diffatisfaction, and lead to commotions or ill-judged exceiles, from the people erroneoully attributing events 429 to caufes which have no juft connetion with | them*. Having culled all the leading heads of news Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf went on fhore | in the evening, and returned the papers to Mr, Hinde. We now took an opportunity of call- ing at the poft-office to afk for letters in the hope of hearing from you all; and there we learned that a fad fcene of confufion had pre- vailed throughout the day, from the crowd forcing their way into the office, and each perfon tumbling over the whole heap to look for his own letters. Iam forry to have again to inform you that late accounts from Grenada fate the ifland to be in great danger, and that we hold poflef- fion of it by avery precarious tenure, the troops being pent up in the town, and not in fufficient force to march again{t the Bri- gands. From St. Vincent we hear, alfo, that the inhabitants have been obliged.to fly to arms * We have been fo accuftomed to pay extravagantly for bread, in England, fince this. period, that the pvice which then feemed frightfully enormous, might now be deemed moderate. A 430 to affift the military, and that fiill they are not powerful enough to defeat the Charibs. It is further added that the negroes, impatient of remaining inaCtive, have petitioned to be fent againft the enemy, threatening to go over to the Charibs if not foon employed to fubdue them. I had nearly forgotten to inform you that a French {py has been dete@ted among us, who has been, for fome time, watching the proceed- ings of the fleet at Barbadoes. It were un- neceflary to add that his life will be ithe fare .' feit of his temerity. Sir Raiph Abercromby arrives at Barbadoes on St.” Patrick's ‘day. Foyous feene in Carlifle bay. Author's reflections upon {cenes which may follow. Succefs of tbe General in bis third attempt to make the voyage. Many rumours expectéd to prevail, Influence of feafon with refpec? to a campaign inthe Weft Indies. The general Cuyler, and Clarendon ar- rive in Carlifle bay. State of the Clarendon. Perils of the general Cuyler. A Dutch mode of punifbment, Progrefs of a leaky foip. Concerning the foips of the De- cember convoy which made good their paffage. March 17. How rentful are the hours which now pafs efore us! The fons of St. Pat atrick have not felt 431 themfelves more blefied, nor hailed in more joy~ ous greetings this hallowed day than the anxious multitude at Barbadoes. It was only yefterday that I took up my pen to announce to youa glad arrival, and I have now to mention one ‘ftill more happy. Before breakfaft this morn- ing a fignal appeared at the fort, implying that a fhip of war-was in fight; and about eight o’clock a proud frigate, with fails {welling to the breeze, cut her liquid path filently into the bay, and dropped her anchor in the midft of the fleet. A general feeling of joy, inftantly, fpread throughout the harbour. It was the Arethufa, with Sir Ralph Abercromby, and the officers of his ftaff on board. A fignal was made from the agent, and all the thips in the bay immediately manned their yards, and rigging to hail, and to welcome, in loud falutation, our long-expected commander in chief. Three heart-felt cheers were, raptu- roufly, fhouted from every vetlel, and as cor- dially echoed by the Arethufa’s company. The fcene thus introduced was novel and peculiar, It was, alfo, highly intere(ting, The yards, the tops, the mafts and Tigging of all the veflels being covered with men, they 432 refembied clufters of bees, as they hang about the hive at the moment previous to fwarming, Each fhip was, indeed, a hive of men, but it was without drones, for all were equally in- duftrious in greeting the arrival.of the “ king % bee” among them. ‘Crowded with yards and mafts ‘the har- bour refembed a thick forefi—the leaves of which were men, not ruftling in the wind, but fet in motion by the more animating breeze of joy and gratulation.—Loud fhouts of wel- come refounded throughout the bay, and when the General went off in the boat to- wards the landing place, each fhip repeated. three cheers as he pafled—the multitude upon the beach again fhouting his weleome as he ftepped on fhore. On reaching the go- vernment houfe at Pilgrim he was received with afalute of twenty-one guns. The iame number was then repeated from the fort, which we had remarked did not fire any falute when the frigate entered the harbour, All ts now life and adtivity. An im= pulfive fenfation vibrates throughout the bay. Every breaft throbs with ardour, and, infpired 433 by the prefence of the commander in chief, every one looks forward toa fuccefsful cam- paign. No one imagines that fate has def- tined him to fall; but each anticipates the joyous moment, when he fhall return to relate hiftories of battles won, and iflands conquered, to his friends in peaceful England.—Yet alas! to how few is it allotted again to vifit either England or their friends! But to fuch re- flections let me be filent:—to fpeak them were unmilitary! Still the duties 1 may have to- perform will, fometimes, call up ftrong affociations in my mind, and amidft the bufy . din of war, or, the loud rejoicings of victory, my very foul will often {well with painful fympathy. Even while I may feel a lively joy in my country’s fuccefs, my agonized — fpirit will dwell on fcenes of defolation ; and be abforbed in the contemplation of indi- vidual fufferings and afflidion. However brilliant the campaign, the fad horrors of the conteft will, frequently, ufurp the pofleffion of of my mind, and create an afflictive impreffion. But it would ill become me to expatiate on the evils I am deftined to deplore. Upon the great fubject of war be it mine to view the VOL. I. ; FF . 434 events before me with the eye of a foldier— my immediate duty will be a fufficient tax upon my feelings, as a man! / | In his third attempt to reach the iflands the commander in chief has been very fuc- cefsful; the Arethufa having failed only on the 14th of February, and, confequently, made the voyagein thirty days. The general takes up his abode at a large building a little way out of the town, called the King’s houfe, which 1s to be made the head quarters, during the affembling of the troops, and the conti- nuance of the army at Barbadoes. “ Much news will now, of courfe, obtain | currency, and various and ftrange reports will find their way into circulation ; many perhaps equally devoid’ of truth and probability. Every one being anxious to catch up each word concerning England, and the expedition, much will be haftily heard by fome, and as haflily repeated by others, whereby even facts will becéme fo diftorted as to lofe all features of correcinefs ; and we fhall not dare to rely upon” any rudiour we may chance to hear, Among other things it is now {faid that only the remaining troops, belonging to thofe regiments already in the Weft Indies, are to come out with the fleet; and that the others are actually fent into different cantonments, in England, there to remain until next Septem- ber, before they again fail for the Weft Indies. Of this we have many doubts; yet might it feem to be a prudent arrangement: for, ad- vanced as the feafon now is, it were, perhaps, wife policy to poftpone the grand object of the expedition for a December campaign; and to employ the troops which are now here in re- ftoring tranquillity to our difturbed and en- | dangered iflands, thus fulfilling the more im- mediate, although perhaps the minor ebjers of the armament. | A body of troops brought out in October or November would have the feafon before them for a long campaign, but were they to Jeave England now, the length of time re- quired for the voyage and for their being af- _ fembled at Barbadoes, and again prepared for leaving it, would bring them fo near to the wet feafon, and to the hot and unhealthy pe- riod of the year, that not only would multi- SB i 2 436 tudes fall victims to difeafe, but impediments, occafioned by the weather, might interrupt the. proceedings of the campaign before any thing. important could be effected. We find that the Cork fleet has, un- queftionably, been for feveral weeks at fea, and may be daily expected; the Arethufa having {poken feveral of the fhips of that convoy upon her paffage. At the time the Arethufa came into the bay two other fhips appeared in fight: they are fince arrived, and prove. to be the General Cuyler merchantman, of our divifion (long fuppofed to be loft), and the Clarendon tranfport of the Cork divifion : ——their arrival, and the reported approach of the Cork fleet add to the aufpicious events of St. Patrick’s day. The fad uncertainties of a fea voyage: are ftrongly exemplified in the combined ar- rival of the General Cuyler, and the Claren- don. The one failed on the 9th of December, and the other on the oth of February; (pe- riods more diftant than the time ufually re-. quired for making the voyage) yet, fo favora- ble had been the elements to. the one, and. fo., 437 ‘adverfe to the other, that they both came into Carlifle bay at the fame moment. The Clarendon, we are told, left the har- bour of Cove with a fleet of 132 fail, having 10,000 troops on board ; but fhe parted from the convoy, in the courfe of the firft night, and has not feen any fhip belonging to it fince. She has brought out nearly 200 men of the ggth regiment, who, we are forry to find, have been far from healthy, notwithftanding the favorable paflage they have made. From this we are led to fear that thofe who are longer detained at fea may arrive in a very fickly ftate. | The fafety of the General Cuyler fpread confolation among us, and very muchaugment- ed the great and general joy diffufed by the arrival of the commander in chief. You will feel that I had real pleafure in felicitating my — friend Nichol, who was one of the paffengers, when I tell you that it had obtained univerfal belief that this fhip was loft at fea, or, at beft, taken by the enemy.. Indeed, for feveral wecks paft, fuch had been the defpondent feel- F iF’ 3 438 “ings regarding her, that it would have been a great relief to us to have heard that fhe was in the enemy’s poffeffion. She had failed with us on the 9th of December, and was the laft fhip we had fpoken in the European feas, which was on the 4th of January, and on the roth of February our fhip reached Carlifle bay; hence from our having been five weeks in har- bour without hearing of her, fcarcely a hope re-- mained of ever feeing her again. Nor were our apprehenfions far from being realized, for on the 7th of January,only three daysafter wehad hailed her, fhe {prung a leak, and during twen- ty fucceeding days, was only kept from fink- ing by the perfevering toil and exertions of the fhip’s company and the paffengers, allof whom took their regular watch at the pumps, for fix or eight hours each day. With great difficul- ty the was kept afloat: daily their peril in- ~creafed, and, for nearly three weeks, they had only the melancholy profpet of going to the bottom, before they could poflibly make any port. Almoft exhaufted with fatigue and apprehenfion, the hope of being faved had | nearly abandoned them, when, fortunately, they made one of the Canary Hlands, | : 6 ae 439 ' Few occurrences can be fo truly diftreff- ing, or fo ftrongly calculated to deprefs the mind with defponding feelings, as this critical, and very perilous fituation at fea. To prevent the threatened fate, exceflive bodily exertions are required, when, from the impreflion of terror, a fufficient degree of hope fearcely re- mains to ftimulate or fupport the fatigue. Extreme toil is demanded—perhaps, too, in an exhaufting, and ungenial climate, and under the deprefling profpedt of the veffel finking in - defpite of every effort ! pe The Dutch are faid to have a mode of pu- nifhment fomewhat refembling this very dan- gerous and affliting fituation, although infi- nitelyremoved from it, on accountof the perfon who is expofed to it knowing a certain meansof faving himfelf, provided he has enough of in- duftry to continue his ¢xertions. The prifoner is confined in aroom, into which wateris made conftantly to flow, fo increafing in depth that he muft, inevitably, be drowned if he is idle: butif he will be induftrious and perfevere at the pump, he knows thata certain proportion of labor will keep down the water, and preferve his life. Surely none but the amphibious and FFA 440 toiling Hollanders could have invented -fuch a © punifhment—fuchan aquatic remedy! although: it muft be allowed to be a moft excellent one a- gainft idlenefs. Butina leaky thip at feano fuch © certainty is attainable. The leak may increafes and no human effort may be fufficient to keep the veflel upon the furface; and, in fuch cafe, all © refource is denied,—the impending doom can, no way, be averted! No mental powers, no bodily exertion can ought avail. Safety is not to be attained by any effort of human ftreneth, or human wifdom. No opening is left for intel- leGtorenterprize. Each road leads equally to de- fpair ; and the event can neither be avoided nor refitted. Oneach hand the wretched fufferers fee only the wide jaw of deftruGion. The leak {till increafing, the water continues to gain upon allthe means employed. It grows deep-. er: the finking thip moves heavily on: her weight oppofes all the farce of wind and fails; ‘fhe labours to proceed: her progrefs is more and more impeded: the flow motion ceafes at intervals : a dread paufe fucceeds : the fhip no longer moves! A momentary filence,— a ‘death-like ftillnefs prevails throughout the crew; or impulfive horror ejaculates in loud { 44n bewailings ! She finks to the bottom, and all hands perifh in the filent deep. You will join in our rejoicings that fuch, although long threatened, was not the fate of the General Cuyler. Happily fhe put into Palmas, and was faved. Atthe time of gain- ing the harbour fhe had many feet water in the _hold, and, only with great exertion, was kept ~ afloat while the cargo was removed. A fort- night’s delay was occafioned in repairing her, and fitting her for the remainder of the voyage. It is upwards of fourteen weeks fince fhe failed from England, twelve of which have been aétually paffed at fea: moft of them in| ftrugeling againft ftorms and gales—againit contrary winds, and contending elements ! _ The paflengers are quite in furprize to find that, even at this late period, their thip is among the early arrivals of the convoy; having imagined that, during their perilous delay, the whole fleet muft have reached Barbadoes, and the troops been again embarked for their re- fpective deftinations. 44200 On the other hand, all who arrive in the fhips from England or Ireland are aftonifhed to find fomany veflels of the convoy at Bar- badoes, having been led to’ believe, from the account of thofe who returned, that the whole mutt have either gone back, put into different ports on the paflage, or been loft at fea. (443— LETTER “XXXxiit. Carlifle Bay the Thames of the Weft Indies. Arrivals from various quarters. A flave-/hip engages a French Priva- teer. The Madras E. Indiaman, anda packet arrive in ~ Carlifle bay. Admiral Chriftian receives the Honors of Knighthood. Vifit to the Venus flave-foip. Author and Dr. Cleghorn continue to ufe walking exercife. Eftate of Mr. Daniel. Tamarind tree, and frut. Barbadoes, March 22. Carrisre bay is become quite the bufy Thames of the WeftIndies. Scarcely adaypaifl- es without the arrival of veflels from one part of the globe or another ; and to us this affords. a degree of varietyand amufement ; for we are frequently enlivened by the fignals made for veffels either coming into harbour, or appear- ing in fight, and which prove to be from vari- ous, and widely feparated coafts. Englith fhips of war, merchantmen, and tranfports; — flave fhips from the coaft of Africa; packets ; prizes ; American traders; ifland veffels, pri- vateers, fifhing {macks, and different kinds of boats, cutters, and luggers, are among the al. 4.4.4 moft hourly variety, to be feen either entering or quitting Carlifle bay. The day after the arrival of the Arethufa we were early enlivened by fignals for other veflels coming in from windward ; but they proved to be fhips from very oppofite coafts ; one being from Hiallifax, and the other a Guinea-man with a cargo of flaves from Africa. Several veffels of the Cork fleet have ar- rived within the few laft days; but none of them bring any accurate tidings of the fleet, moft of them having parted from the convoy, . during the firft or fecond night after quitting the harbour, and not having feen it fince. The Charlotte tranfport was chafed by a pri- vateer at the diftance of only a few leagues from Barbadoes, and muit, inevitably, have been taken, but for the fortunate circumftance of a flave fhip, from the coaft of Guinea, com- ‘ing up at the time and engaging her purfuer. — A running action was maintained, for two hours, between the Guinea-man and the pri- _ vateer, when the latter fheered off, leaving the flave fhip, and her protegée, to purfue their 445 way quietly to Barbadoes—the flave thip hav- _ ing fuffered confiderably in her rigging. | The Madras Eaft Indiaman and a packet are this day arrived from England. They failed, the one from Falmouth, the other from St. Helen’s, on the 23d of February, and have made the voyage within a month. The Ma- dras brings a cargo of ordnance ftores. She failed alone, and made a running paflage. Se- -veral perfons availed themfelves of the oppor- tunity of coming out in this fhip as paflengers ; and fhe has alfo a {mall party of artillery- men on board. The arrival of the prefent packet has not caufed fo great a fenfation as was produced by the appearance of that which I mentioned to you before, although we are much pleafed and gratified to fee it. We have now an ample fupply both of Englifh and American papers, _and from the arrivals being more frequent, and the commander in chief among us, the fad torpor of preceding weeks no longer reigns. Activity prevails, and the fufpenfe of waiting is alleviated by bufy preparation. 446 We now learn that Admirat Chriftian has received the honor of knighthood for his. exertions, in keeping the fea fo long, during fuch dreadfully tempeftuous weather: and we are told that Admiral Cornwallis, and Sir — Hugh Chriftian are both coming out to the Weft Indies. By thofe on board the packet it is reported they were to fail the day that the came away; but the paflengers in the Madras fay that they were not to fail for nearly a month after. ‘The latter fhip coming from the place where the convoy had aflembled, and the circumftance of many of the fhips being difabled and requiring to be repaired, render the report from the Madras the moft probable. We have lately had an opportunity of: Vi- fiting the Venus flave fhip of London, juft ar- rived with a cargo of flaves, from the coaft of © Africa. ‘The fhip appeared fmall : there was ~ awant of fpace, and the negroes feemed crowd- ed ; but, in all other refpets we were pleafed to remark the excellence of the accomodations, and the great attention paid to the health and comfort of the flaves.. The cargo confifted of 230 prime negroes, allin high health, and good \ ee : 4.47 ipirits. The fhip wasremarkablyclean, No fick- nefs had appeared among the blacks, or the crew ; nor had any one died upon the paflage. They made the voyage in fix weeks, and the flaves were fed the whole time with Guinea corn. The average value of the cargo is cal- . culated at nearly £ 50 each negro. The cap- tain has but few hands in his fhip’s company, yet from his kind treatment of the flaves he has fo well fecured their attachment and obedience, as to feel no apprehenfion of a revolt, or of any occurrence to menace their fafety. Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf continue our _pedeftrian excurfions about the neighbour- hood of the bay. Inone of our late rambles we afcended fome hills in the vicinity of Bridge. - Town, which afford a fine land{cape of the ifland, together with a view of the town, the harbour, and the fea. Situated below this mountainous range is the plantation of a Mr. Daniel ; an old and ru- ral eftate which is fheltered, and rendered picturefque by the neighbouring hills. Here we faw avery lofty and fine avenue of trees, of the valuable Lignum Vite ; alfo an immenfely LoS a j ot f i: wn tonn er aa 4 4 + ry et fo wi Xe” a times feen to grace’ the door-way ‘ ; ‘ ‘7 7 be ‘ ‘ in a ee! : ee * Ms i? ie e 3 we large and, andiest tamarind ae oft more,eXx- aks, OF Gonbaite ding whl hick Enelifh dwellings. The tamarind is of. the Mimofa tribe, and may be regarded as a very, handfome example of ‘the vegetable creation. It bears an immenfe quantity of fruit, which hangs in a filiquofe form, among the {mall leaves, and the numerous pods being of a dirty _ brown colour they give a fingular appear- ance, without adding to the beauty of the tree. Upon this old ornament of the manfion were hanging many bufhels—perhaps I might fay 3 - many hogfheads of tamarinds, which were left 3 to fall ufelefs to the ground. Efteemed as this fruit is in Europe, in its preferved ftate, it feems to be as little valued here, as the common crab of the hedges in England, and is equally negleCted, not being confidered worth the labor of gathering, or the expence of the fugar re- quired | in preferving it. . | | END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. ‘Strahan and Prefton, — Printers-Sireet. aeniee = aN tits: * ey A bane ee eee th, a << = SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARIES ET 3 9088 00587 6982 2 apts Hy ae we t 5 . i : an ; ‘ 5 . 4 ‘ : : ‘ , an er) : a . . ‘ Vy Waa 5 ; : m8 ei ; ; s i ‘ f t f ‘ th omg ‘ Wo eh 4 vy 1 ay ‘ ‘ wy ' 2 “ , eh whey ‘ oe i ' ‘ ue Wb wes 4 i hey et é ms i ' 4 i B coma \ ‘ t : ' ee Y , : Wee i , ’ acer ‘