UC-NRLF DAIRY BAC RUSSELL REESE LIBRARY OF THK UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA , 190 . Accession No. 92011 . Class No. \ OUTLINES OF DAIRY BACTERIOLOGY A CONCISE MANUAL FOR THE USE OF STUDENTS IN DAIRYING BY H. L, RUSSELL * / PROFESSOR OF BACTERIOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN FIFTH EDITION THOROUGHLY REVISED UNIVERSITY MADISON, WISCONSIN PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 1902 COPYRIGHTED 1903 BY EL L. RUSSELL. STATE JOURNAL PRINTING COMPANY, PRINTERS AND STEREOTYPERS, MADISON, wis. PREFACE TO FIFTH EDITION. Knowledge in claiming, like all other technical indus- tries, has grown mainly out of experience. Many facts have been learned by observation, but the why of each is frequently shrouded in mystery. Modern dairying is attempting to build its more accu- rate knowledge upon a broader and surer foundation, and in doing this is seeking to ascertain the cause of well- established processes. In this, bacteriology is playing an important r61e. Indeed, it may be safely predicted that future progress in dairying will, to a large extent, depend upon bacteriological research. As Fleischmanu, the emi- nent German dairy scientist, says: "The gradual abolition of uncertainty surrounding dairy manufacture is the pres- ent important duty which lies before us, and its solution can only be effected by bacteriology." It is therefore natural that the subject of Dairy Bacteri- ology has come to occupy an important place in the cur- riculum of almost every Dairy School. An exposition of its principles is now recognized as an integral part of dairy science, for modern dairy practice is rapidly adopt- ing the methods that have been developed as the result of bacteriological study. The rapid development of the sub- ject has necessitated a frequent revision of this work, and it is gratifying to the writer that the attempt which has been made to keep these Outlines abreast of bacteriological advance has been appreciated by students of dairying. While the text is prepared more especially for the prac- 92011 iv Preface to Fifth Edition. tical dairy operator who wishes to understand the principles and reasons underlying his art, numerous references to orig- inal investigations have been added to aid the dairy inves- tigator who wishes to work up the subject more thor- oughly. My acknowledgments are due to the following for the loan of illustrations: Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station; Creamery Package Mfg. Co., Chicago, 111.; and A. H. Reid, Philadelphia, Pa, H. L. RUSSELL. UNrvEitsiTY OP WISCONSIN, Madison, January, 1902. CONTENTS. CHAPTER 1 Structure of the bacteria and conditions gov- erning their development and distribution 1 CHAPTER II. Methods of studying bacteria 13 CHAPTER III. Contamination of milk 19 CHAPTER IV. Fermentations in milk and their treatment 62 CHAPTER V. Relation of disease -bacteria to milk 82 Diseases transmissible from animal to man through diseased milk 84 Diseases transmissible to man through in- fection of milk after withdrawal 94 CHAPTER VI. Preservation of milk for commercial purposes 102 CHAPTER VIL Bacteria and butter making 134 Bacterial defects in butter 156 CHAPTER VI1L Bacteria in cheese 160 Influence Of bacteria in normal cheese processes 160 Influence of bacteria in abnormal cheese processes 182 CHAPTER I. STRUCTURE OF THE BACTERIA AND CON- DITIONS GOVERNING THEIR DEVELOP- MENT AND DISTRIBUTION* BEFORE one can gain any intelligent conception of the manner in which bacteria affect dairying, it is first neces- sary to know something of the life history of these organ- isms in general, how they live, move and react toward their environment. Nature of Bacteria. Toadstools, smuts, rusts and mil- dews are known to even the casual observer, because they are of evident size. Their plant-like nature can be more readily understood from their general structure and habits of life. The bacteria, however, are so small, that under ordi- nary conditions, they only become evident to our unaided senses by the by-products of their activity. When Leeuwenhoek (pronounced Lave-en-hake) in 1675 first discovered these tiny, rapidly-moving organisms he thought they were animals. Indeed, under a microscope, many of them bear a close resemblance to those minute worms found in vinegar that are known as " vinegar-eels." The idea that they belonged to the animal kingdom con- tinued to hold ground until after the middle of the present century; but with the improvement in microscopes, a more thorough study of these tiny structures was made possible, and their vegetable nature demonstrated. The bacteria as a class are separated from the fungi mainly by their method of growth; from the lower algae by the absence of chloro- phyll, the green coloring matter of vegetable organisms. 2 Dairy Bacteriology. Structure Of bacteria. So far as structure is concerned the bacteria stand on the lowest plane of vegetable life. The single individual is composed of but, a single cell, the structure of which does not differ essentially from that of many of the higher types of plant life. It is composed of a protoplasmic body which is surrounded by a thin mem- brane that separates it from neighboring cells that are alike in form and size. Form and size. When a plant is composed of a single cell but little difference in form is to be expected. While there are intermediate stages that grade insensibly into each other, the bacteria may be grouped into three main r * i » Fio. 1. Different forms of bacteria, a, b, c, represent different types as to form: a, coccus, *, bacillus, c, spirillum; longer takes place. If potassium iodid and starch are added to unheated milk and the same treated with hydrogen peroxid, the decomposition of the latter agent releases oxygen which acts on the potassium salt, which in turn gives off free iodine that turns the starch blue. 24 Dairy Bacteriology. dairy custom could well be. In Fig. 7 the arrangement in vogue for the disposal of the whey is shown. The hot whey is run out through the trough from the factory into FIG. 7. Swiss cheese factory (Wisconsin), showing careless way in which whey is handled. Each patron's share is placed in a barrel, from which it is removed by him. No attempt is made to cleanse these receptacles. the large trough that is placed over the row of barrels, as seen in the foreground. Each patron thus has allotted to him in his individual barrel his portion of the whey, which he is supposed to remove day by day. No attempt is made to clean out these receptacles, and the inevitable result is that they become filled with a foul, malodorous liquid, es- pecially in summer. When such material is taken home in the same set of cans that is used to bring the fresh milk (twice a day as is the usual custom in Swiss factories), it is no wonder that this industry is seriously handicapped by " gassy " fermentations that injure materially the qual- ity of the product. Not only is the above danger a very Contamination of Milk. t 25 considerable one, but the quality of the factory by-product for feeding purposes, whether it is skim-milk or whey, is impaired through the development of fermentative changes. Improved methods of disposal of by-products. The diffi- culties which attend the distribution of these factory by- products have led to different methods of solution. One is to use another separate set of receptacles to carry back these products to the farm. This method has been tried, and while it is deemed impracticable by many to handle two sets of vessels, yet some of the most progressive factories report excellent results where this method is in use. Large barrels could be used for this purpose to econo- mize in wagon space. Another method that has met with wider acceptance, especially in creameries, is the custom of pasteurizing or scalding the skim-milk immediately after it is separated, so that it is returned to the farmer in a hot condition. In factories where the whole milk is pasteurized, further treatment of the by-product is not necessary. In most factories steam, generally exhaust, is used directly in the milk, and experience has shown that such milk, without any cooling, will keep sweet for a considerable number of hours longer than the untreated product. It is noteworthy that the most advanced and progressive factories are the ones that appreciate the value of this work, and although it involves some time and expense, experience has shown the utility of the process in that a better grade of milk is furnished by the patrons of factories which follow this practice.1 The exclusion of all danger of animal or human disease is also possible in this way. i McKay, N. Y. Prod. Rev.. Mch. 22, 1899. 2G Dairy Bacteriology. Cleaning dairy utensils. The thorough cleaning of all dairy apparatus that in any way conies in contact with the milk is one of the most fundamental and important problems in dairying. All such apparatus should be so constructed as to permit of easy cleaning. Tinware, preferably of the pressed variety, gives the best surface for this purpose and is best suited for the handling of milk. Milk vessels should never be allowed to become dry when dirty, for dried particles of milk residue are extremely diffi- cult to remove. In cleaning dairy utensils they should first be rinsed in lukewarm instead of hot water, so as to remove organic matter without coagulating the milk. Then wash thoroughly in hot water, using soap or weak alkali. A borax solution is sometimes recommended for cleaning bottles. Strong alkalies should not be used. After washing rinse thorough!}' in clean hot water. If steam is available, as it always is in creameries, cans and pails should be turned over jet for a few moments. While a momentary exposure will not suffice to completely ster- ilize such a vessel, yet many bacteria are killed in even a short exposure, and the cans dry more thoroughly and quickly when heated by steam. Not only should the greatest care be paid to the condi- tion of the cans and milk-pails, but all dippers, strainers, and other utensils that come in contact with the milk must be kept equally clean. Cloth strainers, unless attended to, are objectionable, for the fine mesh of the cloth retains so much moisture that they become a veritable hot-bed of bacterial life, unless they are daily boiled or steamed. Germ content of milk utensils. Naturally the number of bacteria found in different milk utensils after they have received their regular cleaning will be subject to great Contamination of Milk. 27 fluctuations; but, nevertheless, such determinations are of value as giving a scientific foundation for practical meth- ods of improvement. The following studies may serve to indicate the relative importance of the utensils as a factor in milk contamination. Two cans were taken, one of which had been cleaned in the ordinary way, while the other was sterilized by steam- ing. Before, milking, the udder was thoroughly cleaned and special precautions taken to avoid raising of dust; the fore milk was rejected. Milk drawn into these two cans showed the following germ content: No. bacteria Hours before per cc. souring. Steamed pail 165 28£ Ordinary pail 4265 23 Harrison1 showed the great variation in the bacterial content in milk cans in the following way: Cans were rinsed with 100 cc. of sterile water and numerical deter- minations of this rinsing water made. The following data are from cans poorly cleaned (Series A), cans washed in tepid water and then scalded — the usual factory method — (•Series B), and cans washed in tepid water and steamed for five minutes (Series C). Bacterial contents of cans cleaned in various ways. Series A, dirty cans 238,525 342,875 215,400 618,200 806,320 510,270 230,100 610,510 418,810 317,250 Series B, ordinary method 89,320 84,750 26,800 24,000 38,400 76,800 15,200 13,080 44,160 93,400 Series C, approved method 1,170 1,792 890 355 416 A variation of this method was made by the writer as follows: Three pails were thoroughly washed with 100 cc. » Harrison, 22 Kept. Out. Agr'l Coll., 1896, p. 113. I. II. III. 7,°00,000 1,450,000 49,000 283,000 43,400 35,000 1,685,000 105,000 61,400 28 Dairy Bacteriology. of sterile water, using a sterile swab to remove all dirt. This process was repeated with two otlrr rinse waters of the same volume, and from each of these plates were made with following results: No. bacteria in different washings. Total No. bacteria. 9,299,000 361,400 1,851,400 Infection of udder cavity. While it may be true that milk as secreted in the glandular tissue of a healthy ani- mal may be practically iree from bacteria, yet it does not follow that it contains no microbes when first drawn. In- deed, a bacterial examination of the first few streams taken from each teat will invariably show a relatively high germ content; much higher, in fact, than that which is subse- quently withdrawn. The reason for this is evident when the structure of the udder and its relation to the exte- rior is noted (Fig. 8). The udder is composed of secreting tissue (gland cells), held in place by fibrous connective tis- sue. Ramifying throughout this glandular structure are numerous channels (milk sinuses) that serve to convey the milk from the cells where it is produced into the milk cis- tern, a common receptacle just above the teat. This cavity is connected with the exterior through the milk duct in the teat, which is closed more or less tightly by the circular sphincter muscles, thus preventing the milk from flowing out. According to the best authorities, the fat globules are elaborated very largely during the actual manipulation of the udder in milking, yet there is always a small residual amount of milk that is not removed even by " clean" milk- ers. Contamination of Milk. 29 The ready infection1 of the external opening of the milk duct gives an opportunity for bacteria to plant them- selves on a moist mucous surface, and the result is, that some organisms, at least, find it possi- ble to penetrate the milk duct and so enter the milk cis- tern. When once this reservoir is in- fected, further spread can be easily made, even into the glandular portion of the udder.2 In such a habitat, ideal conditions would seem to exist, at least, for the faculta- tive anaerobic type of bacteria. Moist- ture, warmth, suffi- cient and nutritious food, give optimum conditions for de- velopment, but these may, in part FIG. 8. Section of udder, showing teat, milk cis- , , , , tern and secreting tissue (Moore and Ward). at least> be by the fact that 1 According to Jos. Simon (Diss. Hyg. Inst. Erlangen, 1898) the udder is sterile except at outer opening. 8 Moore and Ward, Bull. 153, Cornell Expt. Stat, Jan., 1899. 30 Dairy Bacteriology. healthy mucous surfaces secrete more or less marked ger- micidal fluids.1 Number of bacteria in fore milk. If the first few streams of milk drawn from the udder are examined bacteriologic- ally, it will invariably be found that the same contain a relatively large number of organisms, as shown by the fol- lowing data collected by Harrison,2 in which the bacterial content of the fore milk is compared with the balance of the milking. Comparison in germ content of fore and whole milk. Foremilk 26,070 25,630 38,420 18,110 54,800 32,700 43,520 27,830 18,500 29,400 45,630 48,700 Milk after removal of foremilk..'.. 1,246 1,150 1,430 3,420 1,560 890 2,575 4,820 3,270 1,285 1,350 If successive bacterial determinations are made of milk taken at different periods of the milking process, it is to be noted, as in the following experiment, that a sudden dimi- nution occurs after the first few streams are removed. In this the bacterial distribution per cc. was as follows: Bacterial content at different periods of milking. Fore 200th 2000th 4300th 6500th Strip- milk, cc. cc. cc. cc. pings. Expt. 1 6,500 1,700 475 220 75 5 Expt. 2 3,100 1,650 400 240 50 10 In these cases contamination from all other sources was excluded. The stoppings will sometimes be almost sterile, ^The germicidal properties of freshly drawn milk discovered by Fokker (Zeit. f. Hyg., 1890, 9:41) is shown by the diminution in number of organisms that may sometimes be noted (Park, N. Y. Univ. Bull., 1901, 1:85). » Harrison, 22 Kept. Ont. Agr. Coll., 1896, p. 108; also Moore, 12 Kept. Bur. Animal Ind. Washington, 1895-6, p. 261. Contamination of Milk. 31 thus indicating that the abundance of bacteria found in the fore milk is due to the flushing out of the lower por- tion of the cistern and duct by the first few streams re- moved. Kinds Of bacteria in fore milk. The effect of these or- ganisms on milk will depend upon the character of the same. As a rule the number of the different species found is usually small, a condition due in all probability to the fact that the surroundings in the udder favor a rapid growth of certain forms. According to Boiley1 the bac- terial flora may vary considerably, although certain types reappear with striking constancy if once found in the udder or teat. What these forms are is a question of con- siderable importance, for it would seem that the numerical predominance of those present in the fore milk might in- fluence the character of the fermentation of the whole milk. Harrison 2 claims to have found peptonizing bacteria in the fore milk, while Marshall 3 reports organisms that re- sist pasteurizing. Boiley, in thirty experiments, found twelve out of sixteen species to belong to the lactic class. Boiley and Hall failed to find gas-producing forms in the milk of ten cows that were examined for a period of three months; but the observations of Moore and Ward4 show that gas-generating and taint-producing species are to be found. This fact is important in the selection of milk from a single animal for the cultivation of a starter. Hast- ings has made the interesting observation in the writer's laboratory, that the fore milk, although much richer in i Boiley, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt,, 1895, 1:795. a Harrison, 1. c., p. 108. •Marshall, Bull. 147, Mich. Expt. Stat., p. 42. * Moore and Ward, Bull. 158, Cornell Expt. Stat., Jan., 1899. 32 Dairy Bacteriology. bacteria than the whole milk, does not coagulate nearly as soon. In a series of five trials the fore milk did not curdle at room temperature on an average until after 84 hours, while the average time of curdling of the whole milk was 38 hours. Not all species of bacteria seem to be able to maintain themselves in the udder even if they are introduced therein. Dinwiddie1 injected into the milk cistern a facultative an- aerobic lactic acid-producing form that grew at 99° F. Several subsequent examinations failed to reveal the or- ganism in any case. Ward 2 experimented with B. prodigi- osus which he introduced through the milk duct. He was able to determine its presence six days later. Experiments have also been made with B. coli communis, B. cloacae and B. lactis aerogenes? all of which are gas-generating species, but in no case did these forms thrive. In securing milk under conditions whereby the bacterial content is reduced as much as possible, it is advisable to throw out these first few streams. In doing so, the in- trinsic loss is practically negligible, for the amount of butter fat in even the first pint of a milking is only about 0.7,4 or one fifth of the normal. Infection directly from animal. It is a popular belief that much of the germ life that is found in milk is derived from the food that is consumed by the animal, but such a condition cannot prevail in the healthy animal for the reason that bacteria in and on fodder are not absorbed into the tissues proper, or if they are, they are quickly killed by the germicidal properties of the body fluids. The » Dinwiddie, Bull. 45, Ark. Expt. Stat., p. 57. 'Ward, Journ. of Appld. Mic., 1898, 1:305. » Appel, Milch Zeit., 1900, No. 17. « Snyder, Chemistry of Dairying, p. 10. Contamination of Milk. 33 ger which does obtain directly from the animal, and which to some extent is modified by the nature of the food par- taken, is due to the fecal matter that is voided from the intestine. Under careless conditions this is permitted to soil the flanks and udder of the animal. In a dried state it is readily dislodged by the movements of milking and so falls into the open milk pail. The nature of the food con- sumed modifies to some extent the character and consist- ency of the manure, physically as well as bacteriologically. The modern use of a more nitrogenous ration than for- merly has resulted in the production of a softer, more fluid manure, which is more likely to soil the coat of the ani- mal. The same is true with animals on pasture in com- parison with those fed dry fodder. Wiithrich and Freudenreich * find a markedly higher germ content in manure where animals are given dry feed than where kept on grass. They found as many as 375,000,000 bacteria per gram in fresh manure, the major- ity of which consisted of B. coli communis, the hay bacillus, and other species able to peptonize casein. Organisms of this type are more abundant in winter milk than in summer, as the opportunity for infection is greatly increased by closer housing. The nature of the animal's coat favors greatly the re- tention of dirt and dust. Cows wading in slime-covered pools may cover the udder with material teeming with bac- teria, which falls as an impalpable powder when dry. The danger which may come from the introduction of such matter is readily seen if hairs are removed from the coat of the animal and laid on the surface of a sterile gelatin plate as in Fig. 9. Almost invariably, a number of colo- ' Cent. f. Bakt., II. Abt. 1895, 1:8?3. 3 34: Dairy Bacteriology. nies develop under these conditions, thus indicating the in- fection that arises from this material. The introduction of the dirt particles themselves, however, adds relatively many more bac- teria than come from the hairs themselves. The amount of pol- lution coming from the coat of the animal is largely depend- ent upon the care taken in bedding, and even the nature of the bedding material has an effect. Expen- 3^ 9 showing the bacterial contamination arising ence has shown from hair. These hairs were allowed to fall on a sterile 1 j. • gelatin surface. The adherent bacteria developed P6at 3 readily in jjjjg medium, and the number of bacteria USed for this pur- thus introduced into the milk from these hairs can be DOSe that the estimated by the number of developing colonies. bacterial life is greatly reduced, due to the antiseptic ac- tion which this strongly acid material possesses. The amount of impurities that are often to be found in milk, even after it is strained, attest beyond dispute the careless methods of handling; it should, furthermore, be noted that about one-half of fresh manure dissolves in milk,1 and thus does not appear as sediment. It has been determined by actual tests that the daily milk supply of » Backhaus, Milch Zeit, 1897, 2G:357. Contamination of Milk. 35 the city of Berlin, Germany, contains about three hundred pounds of dirt and filth. From a large number of determinations of the solid im- purities found in market milk, Renk ! deduces the follow- ing rule: If a sample of milk shows any evidence of im- purity settling on a transparent bottom within two hours, it is to be regarded as containing too much solid impuri- ties. These solid particles, composed largely of manure and dirt, are always teeming with bacteria, especially with putrefactive and decomposition organisms. While the number of bacteria that are hereby introduced into milk is at times large, the character of the species is even more significant. Derived primarily, as most of them are, from fecal matter or from dirt, it is little wonder that, their introduction should call forth abnormal fermenta- tions. Undoubtedly bacteria of this class are intimately concerned in the production of intestinal troubles in in- fants. Eckles2 has shown that the digesting bacteria that accompany fecal matter are closely connected with the peculiar winter flavors that impair the quality of winter butter. Influence of the milker. The condition of the person of the milker is not to be ignored in determining all pos- sible factors of infection, for when clothed in dust-laden garments, dislodgment of bacteria takes place readily. Particular attention should be paid to the hands of the milker. The filthy practice of moistening the hands with a few drops of milk is to be deprecated from every point of view. The milker should wash his hands in clean water just before milking. If something is needed to en- » Renk, Cent. f. Bakt., 1891, 10:19$. 2 Eckles, Bull. 59, Iowa Expt. Stat., Aug. 1901. 36 Dairy Bacteriology. able him to obtain a firmer grasp, a pinch of vaseline may be used. Any scales or dirt rubbed from the teat would be held by the vaseline and its effect on sore or chapped teats is healing. Freudenreich * reports some experiments in which the germ content of milk was reduced from several thousand to 200 where the hands were well rubbed with vaseline before milking. Where a stringent control is exercised, it is worth while to have the milker clothed in a suit kept for this purpose, especially the upper portion of the body. An outer garment could easily be slipped over the regular working clothes. This garment should be white so as to necessitate frequent washing. Use Of milking machines. Numerous attempts have been made to reduce the process of milking to a mechan- ical basis by the introduction of a milking machine and with some of these devices a bacteriological examination has been made. Harrison 8 found that milk drawn from the animal with the Thistle machine was much richer in bacteria than hand-drawn milk. This was due to the suction applied to the external surface of the teat and udder, which caused the introduction of dust particles. In the Murchland machine,3 the keeping quality of the milk was fully equal to that drawn in the usual way. Exclusion Of dirt. Scrupulous care will greatly mini- mize the extent of infection from dirt and dust, carding and brushing the udder and flanks will remove loose hairs and considerable adherent dirt, but so long as the coat is dry, dust particles and bacteria are readily dislodged. It is generally thought that if these visible evidences of dirt 1 Freudenreich, Die Bakteriologie, p. 80. a Harrison, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt. 1809, 5:183. • Dyrsdale, Trans. High. & Agr. Soc. Scotland, 5 Sen, 1898, 10:166. Contamination of Milk. 37 are removed by straining or filtering the milk, the source of trouble is eliminated. But in this operation only the visible dirt is taken out. The invisible, and by far the more dangerous material, is the bacterial life that thus be- comes established, there to grow and develop. To remove the dirt after it has once come in contact with the milk only lessens the difficulty, but does not overcome it. 1. Moistening the udder. If alter brushing and remov- ing the loose hairs and dirt that can be readily dislodged in the milking, the udder and under parts are thoroughly moistened with water, the fine dust-like particles will be held in place. When moistened the surface does not want to be dripping wet. The objection has been raised to washing and cleaning the udder that the yield of milk is reduced, but Eckles1 concludes from experiments that when the animal becomes accustomed to the treatment, no noticeable effect is produced either in amount of milk or butter-fat. The effect of this method on reducing the number of bacteria dislodged is apparent from the following test which was made on a cow kept on pasture and milked out of doors. A sterile gelatin plate was exposed for sixty seconds under the belly in close proximity to the milk pail. Then, the udder, flank, and legs of the cow were thor- oughly cleaned with water, and the milking resumed. A second plate was then exposed in the same place for an equal length of time; a control exposure being made at a distance of ten feet from the animal and six feet from the ground to ascertain the germ content of the surrounding air. From this experiment the following instructive data » Eckles, Hoard's Dairyman, July 8, 1898. 38 Dairy Bacteriology. were gathered. Where the animal was milked without any special precautions being taken, there were 3,250 bacteria j00r minute deposited on an area equal to the ex- posed top of a ten inch milk-pail. Where the cow received the precautionary treatment as suggested above, there were only 115 bacteria per minute deposited on the same area. In the control plate sixty-five bacteria were found. This indicates that a large number of organisms from the dry coat of the animal can be kept out of milk if such simple precautions as these are carried out. A consider- able number of other observations have been collected in the writer's laboratory, and it has frequently been found, that in the case of well kept herds, the germ content of the milk in the pail is increased from 20,000-40,030 bacteria per minute during the milking period by the dislodg- ment of organisms from the animal. 2. Diminishing exposed surface of pail. Another method of excluding the dirt, in part at least, is to use a pail having a less exposed surface. There are several different types of these sanitary or hygienic pails that are ussd more or less in the better type of dairies. Eckles reports following data where a covered pail with a small opening was used in comparison with a common open pail. 43,200 bacteria per cc. were found in the milk drawn in a common pail as against 3200 per cc. in covered pail. The milk soured in 43 hours in the first case; 64 hours in the latter instance. A series of experi- ments made in writer's laboratory by Darrow with the two sterilized pails shown in Fig. 10 were as follows: No. bacteria per cc* in milk. PailA 125 91 110 40 170 80 40 PailB.. 535 240 160 115 230 45 170 Contamination of Milk. 39 Pail A is provided with a small opening in a removable top (C) to the pail. This top piece is arranged so that a layer of muslin or flannel (a, a') can be stretched over opening. On this is placed a layer of absorbent cotton (&), which in turn is covered with another sheet of muslin. Pail B is provided with a removable top in the lower part of which is fitted another connection .5, that is also removable. This part is provided with a cotton filter (a), the milk also passing upward through a wire strainer (b). FIG. 10. Sanitary milk pails designed to diminish introduction of hairs, etc., into milk. The efficiency of either of these pails is apparent from the data presented. 3. Cleaning milk by centrifugal force. Another method that is in quite common use is to pass the milk through separators. This not only removes practically all sus- pended particles of foreign matter, as dirt, hairs, epithelial cells or other debris,1 but eliminates a large part of the bacteria with the centrifuge slime. By weighing the skim milk, cream and slime carefully, and then determin- ing the germ content of each, it is possible to compute the 1 Backhaus (Milch Ztg., 1897, 26:358) found that 95.6 per cent of impurities were thus removed. 40 Dairy Bacteriology. relative distribution of bacteria. Eckles and Barnes1 have reported a series of studies of this sort in which they found from 37 to 56 per cent of the organisms removed from the milk by centrifugal force. An average of their re- sults showed about 29 per cent of total bacterial life in the skim milk, 24 per cent in the cream, and about 47 per cent in the slime. Quantitatively the bacterial content of the slime is always exceedingly high, ranging from tens of millions to billions of bacteria per gram. It is surprising that the elimination of snch a consider- able proportion of organisms should not materially en- hance the keeping quality of the purified milk. In the work above reported, although the number of bacteria was diminished 15 to 50 per cent, the diminution in develop- ment of acidity in twenty-four hours in the purified sam- ples was only a few hundredths of one per cent. The effect of filtration through sand, gravel and other substances is the same as when the milk is passed through the separator, the aim in all cases being to purify or free the milk from solid impurities that find their way into the milk largely from the animal herself. Comparative experi- ments made by Backhaus and Cronheim2 on various filter- ing devices show that cellulose yields the best results. Schuppan 8 found the supply of a Copenhagen company that used a gravel filter reduced 38 to 48 per cent. Influence of barn air. It is impossible to separate the influence of the air entirely from that of the animal, as the dust particles from the coat of the animal must of necessity pass through the air. Germ life cannot develop in the air, but in a dried con- > Eckles and Barnes, Bull. 59, Iowa Expt. Stot., Aug. 1901. •Journ. f. Landw., 1897,45:223. » Cent. f. Bakt., 1893, 13:557. Contamination of Milk. 41 dition, organisms retain their vitality for long periods of time. The use of dry fodder, the bedding of animals with straw adds greatly to the amount of dust particles, and consequently to the germ life floating in the air, as seen in Fig. 11. Taints in milk have frequently been traced to infection arising from this source. FIG. 11. Effect of contaminated air. The number of spots indicate the col- onies that have developed from the bacteria which f ell in 30 seconds on the sur- face of the gelatin plate (3 inches in diameter). This exposure was made at time the cows were fed. While the stable cannot be entirely freed from dust, yet the effect of this factor can be greatly minimized by a little forethought. Feeding before milking adds materially to the germ content of the air, if feed is of dry character. If moistened and given during milking, the same objection does not inure. The following data collated by Harrison shows number of bacteria per minute deposited in a 12-inch pail. In Series A, the exposure was made during bedding; in B, one hour after this operation. 42 Dairy Bacteriology. Influence of dusty air on germ life. Series A 16,000 13,536 12,216 12,890 15,340 19,200 23,400 27,342 42,750 18,730 Series B 483 610 820 715 1,880 2,112 1,650 990 1,342 2,370 These results indicate that the bacteria are in the main attached to particles of considerable weight, as they settle readily to the floor. It has long been observed that the milk of stall-kept animals does not keep as well as that milked out-of-doors. In some of the better sanitary dairies, it is customary ta have a milking room, the walls of which may be kept moist, or at least free from dust, and in this way eliminate the effect of air infection. Relative importance of foregoing: factors. It is exceed- ingly difficult to measure the relative values of these dif- ferent methods of infection that have been cited, for they are subject to so much fluctuation. Where the milk is handled without any special care, unclean dairy utensils and dirt from the animal are the most important sources of pollution, not only with reference to the actual number of bacteria introduced, but more particularly as to the effect which bacteria of this class exert on the milk. If, how- ever, careful supervision is given to the carrying out of ra- tional methods of cleanliness, the most important factor contributing to the germ content is often the fore milk. Sanitary or hygienic milk. By putting into practice the various suggestions that have been made with reference to- diminishing the bacterial content of milk, it is possible to greatly reduce the number of organisms found therein, and at the same time materially improve the keeping qual- Contamination of Milk. 43 ity of the milk. Backhaus1 estimates that the germ life in milk can be easily reduced to one-two thousandth of its original number by using care in milking. He reports a series of experiments covering two years in which milk was secured that averaged less than 10,000 bacteria per cc., while that secured under ordinary conditions averaged over 500,000. Fig. 13 gives an illustration as to what care in milking will do in the way of eliminating bacteria. Fig. 12 shows a gelatin plate seeded with the same quantity of milk that was used in making the culture indicated by Fig. 13. The first plate was inoculated with milk drawn under ordi- nary conditions, the germ content of which was found to be 15,500 bacteria per cc., while the sample secured under as nearly aseptic conditions as possible (Fig. 13) contained only 330 organisms in the same volume. Within recent years there has been more or less gener- ally introduced into many cities, the custom of supplying high grade milk that has been handled in a way so as to diminish its germ content as much as possible. Milk of this character is frequently known as usanitary,"uhygienic" or "certified," the last term being used in connection with a certification from veterinary authorities or boards of health as to the freedom of animals from contagious dis- ease. Frequently a numerical bacterial standard is exacted as a pre-requisite to the recommendation of the board of examining physicians. Thus, the Pediatric Society of Philadelphia requires all children's milk that receives its recommendation to have not more than 10,000 bacteria per cc. Such a standard has its value in the scrupulous cleanliness that must prevail in order to secure these re- 1 Backhaus, Ber. Landw. Inst. Univ. Konigsberg, 1897, 2:12. 44 Dairy Bacteriology. suits. This in itself is practically a guarantee of the ab- sence of those forms liable to produce trouble in children. De Schweinitz1 has made a series of examinations ex- tending throughout a year on such a sanitary dairy in FIG. 19. Bacterial content of milk handled in ordinary way. Each spot rep- resents a colony growing on gelatin plate. Compare with Fig. 13, where same quantity of milk is used in making culture. Over 15,000 bacteria per cc. in this Washington. The average of 113 samples was 6,485 or- ganisms per cc. The following figures for a week in sum- mer are taken from the regular analytical records of a Philadelphia firm that makes a specialty of children's milk. July ............... 1234 567 No. bacteria per cc.. 525 1,050 125 2,450 1,250 475 2,100 From a practical point of view, the improvement in quality of sanitary milk, in comparison with the ordinary product is seen in the enhanced keeping quality. During » De Schweinitz, Nat. Med. Rev., Apr. 1899. Contamination of Milk. 45 the Paris Exposition in 1900, milk and cream from several such dairies in the United States were shipped to Paris, arriving in good condition after 15-18 days transit. When milk has been handled in such a way that by the time it Fio. 18. Bacterial content of milk drawn with care. Diminished germ con- tent is shown by smaller number of colonies (330 bacteria per cc.). Compare this culture with that shown in Fig. 12. reaches the consumer it contains no more germ life than this, it is evident that it much more nearly approximates the condition which exists in the udder of the animal than the milk ordinarily sold by the milk dealer. Considerable difference of opinion has existed in the minds of the medical profession as to the relative merits of such sanitary milk in comparison with pasteurized or sterilized milk as food for children. While it can gener- ally be shown that properly pasteurized milk will contain less germ life than this which has been milked and handled under careful sanitary conditions, yet the fact that the 4G Dairy Bacteriology. low bacterial content is secured in the latter case by the elimination rather than the destruction of bacteria is a point in its favor. Unquestionably such sanitary milk is less changed from the normal secretion of the cow than that which has been subjected to heat sufficiently high to •destroy the bacteria in the same. It may not be practical under all conditions where milk is produced to put into operation all of the precautions tfcat have been previously referred to. But there can be no doubt where milk is to be consumed as milk, that the introduction of these or similar methods would greatly improve the quality of the product. Even where milk is utilized in the factory or creamery, it is quite essential that it should be as nearly normal as possible, for in but- ter and cheese making, the quality of the product is di- rectly dependent upon the character of the raw material. Dairymen have learned many lessons in the severe school of experience, but it is earnestly to be hoped that future conditions will not be summed up in the words of the eminent German dairy scientist, Prof. Fleischmann, when he says that "all the results of scientific investigation which have found such great practical application in the treatment of disease, in disinfection, and in the preserva- tion of various products, are almost entirely ignored in milking." Effect of temperature on bacterial growth. After milk is once seeded with bacterial life, no one factor exerts so potent an effect as temperature upon the rate of growth. Although different species vary in their rate of develop- ment, yet moderately warm temperatures from 75° to 90° F., encourage rapid growth. Unless the milk is quickly deprived of its original heat, the rate of the fermentative Contamination of Milk. 47 changes will be much increased as is shown in following results obtained by Freudenreich.1 No. of bacteria per cc. in milk kept at different temperatures. 77° F. 95° F. 5 hrs. after milking < 10.000 30,000 8 " " " 25,000 12,000,000 12 u " " 46,000 35,283,000 26 " " " 5,700,000 50,000,000 PPOQEAY OF A SI/iQLE GERM I/I 12 HOURS, I/I MILR ALLOWED TO COOL /iATURALLY. -f,** I/S MILfT COOLED WITH ''HUCA COLD WATER. Fro. 14. Effect of cooling milk on the growth of bacteria. If a can of milk is allowed to cool naturally, it will take several hours before it reaches the temperature of the sur- rounding air. During this time the organisms in the fore milk are continuing their rapid growth, while those forms which come from dust, and are presumably in a latent state, awake from their lethargy under the influence of these favorable surroundings. If bacteria once gain an entrance and begin to germinate, a considerably lower temperature is required to successfully check development than to hold latent organisms, like spores, in a condition where germination will not occur. To hasten this lowering of temperature artificial cooling is a necessity. With good well water having a tempera- 1 Freudenreich, Ann. de Microg., 1890, 2:115. 48 Dairy Bacteriology. ture of 48°-50° F., it is possible to chill milk sufficiently to keep it. Where cold water is not available, ice water should be used. In the production of the best quality of milk for the factory, this factor of early and thorough cooling is entitled to more weight than even the matter of extreme care in milking. Mixing: night and morning milk. Common experience has often shown when old milk is mixed with new, that the fermentative changes are more rapid than would have been the case if the two milks had been kept apart. This is most frequently observed when the night milk is cooled down and mixed with the warm morning milk. This often imperfectly understood phenomenon rests upon the relation of bacterial growth to temperature. The night milk may be cooled down to 50° F., but by the next morn- ing it has considerably more bacteria than the freshly drawn sample, the temperature of which may be 90° F. Now, if these two milkings are mixed, the temperature of the whole mass will be raised to a point that is more fa- vorable for the growth of all of the contained bacteria than it would be if the older milk was kept chilled. Number of bacteria in milk. The germ content of milk varies so greatly that unless the conditions are all known, it is impossible to foretell what may be found therein. An examination of milk will often reveal a dif- ference in numbers, ranging from a few score of germs to hundreds of millions per cc. The presence of such a vary- ing number is dependent upon certain factors, as the age of the milk, the care taken during the milking, and also the way in which it has been handled since that time. Disregarding milk of different ages, the number of germs present in any sample bears a general relation to the Contamination of Milk. 49 amount of dirt and filth with which it has come in contact since it was drawn from the cow. Bacteria and filth of all kinds are so intimately associated with each other that the presence of one rightly presupposes that of the other. As to the numerical content of any milk, there is such a wide variation under different conditions that figures are not of much worth unless surrounding conditions are considered. No exact relation can be maintained between the number of bacteria in milk and the development of fermentative products. Under American conditions data are gradually being accumulated, but the subject has not been exhaustively studied. Milk in this country as it reaches the consumer usually contains fewer bacteria than are to be found in European supplies, although as Conn has pointed out, it is often older. As he intimates this is explained by the rela- tively free use of ice in this country. A few determina- tions of the bacterial content of European milks that have been analyzed biologically will illustrate this point. Renk1 found in Halle milk supply 6 to 30,000,000 germs per cc.; Cnopf 2 in Munich milk supply 200,000 to 6,000,000 per cc.; Uhl8 in Giessen milk 83,000 to 170,000,000 per cc.; Clauss 4 in Wurzburg 222,000 to 23,000,000 per cc.; Bujwid in Warsaw an average of 4,000,000 per cc., and Knochen- steirn 5 in Dorpat 25,000,000 per cc. Sedgwick and Batchelder 6 report fifty-seven samples of Boston milk as containing from 30,000 to 4,220,000 per cc. In the country, they found in the milk fresh from the cow J Renk, Cent. f. Bakt. 10:193. 8 Cnopf, Ibid. 6: 553. » Uhl, Zeit. f. Hyg., 1892, 12:475. 4 Clauss, Diss. Wurzburg, 1889. * Knochensteirn, Chem. Cent., 11:62. • Sedgwick and Batchelder, Boston Med. Surg. Journ., Jan. 14, 1892. 4 50 Dairy Bacteriology. 30,000, and in the milk as used on the table about 70,000 organisms per cc. Loveland and Watson ' found in the supply of Middletown, Conn., from 11,000 to 85,500,000 per cc. Leighton8 studied seventeen dairies at Montclair, N. J., for a three-year period with the following results : Class I, dairies averaging below 15,000 bacteria per cc.; Class II, those averaging from 40,000 to 70,000 per cc.; • Class III, those above 180,000. In Class I, the dairies were found to be clean and well improved; in Class II the conditions were as satisfactory as possible with the crude appliances used; Class III was as a whole careless. McDonnell3 sampled 352 lots from eleven American cities. The worst samples were found in restaurants and with small retail dealers. 28 per cent of all samples contained less than 100,000 bacteria per cc. while 34 per cent had less than 500,000. Park 4 finds in New York City that the milk in the shops where it is generally sold, averages during the coldest weather about 250,000 organisms per cc., during cool weather about 1,000,000, and in hot weather about 5,000,000 per cc. Eckles 6 has studied the flora of milk under factory conditions. He finds from one to five million organisms per cc. in winter, but in summer there may be from fifteen to thirty millions. Bacterial vs. other standards. As the germ content of milk is subject to such wide variations, it is practi- cally impossible to establish a numerical standard, al- 1 Loveland and Watson, Ch. 7 Rep. Storrs Stat. (Conn.), 1894, p. 72. » Leighton, Science, Mar. 23, 1900. 1 McDonnell, Penn. Dept. Agr. Kept., 1897, p. 561. «Park, N. Y. Univ. Bull., 1901, 1:85. • Eckles, Bull. 59, Iowa Expt. Stat., Aug., 1901. Contamination of Milk. 51 though Bitter states that 50,000 organisms per cc. should be a maximum limit in milk intended as human food. As a result of a study of the supply of New York city, Park believes it is possible for a milk producer, without adding materially to his expense, to secure milk which when first drawn will not contain on an average more than 30,000 bacteria in hot weather and 25,000 in cold weather. If such milk is chilled immediately to 50° F., it will not contain more than 100,000 per cc. in twenty-four hours. Rochester, New York, has already tried the en- forcement of a standard (100,000 per cc.) with good re- sults it is claimed. The practical difficulties to contend with in establishing a milk standard based upon a quanti- tative bacterial determination are such as to render its gen- eral adoption extremely problematical. Acid test. It would seem that some other test which can be more easily employed, even though it might not be susceptible to an equal degree of accuracy, would be pref- erable. Such a test is to be found in the acid test which measures the acidity of the milk in question. There are of course organisms to be found in milk that do not pro- duce acid, and therefore it might be thought that the presence of such would militate against the accuracy of .such a test; but under normal conditions, the lactic acid- producing organisms find in milk so congenial a sub- stratum for their development, that in the great majority of cases, the determination of the acid indicates the man- ner in which milk has been handled. High acidity is either due to old milk (long period of incubation) or insufficient cooling (rapid incubation). Either of these conditions permits of the accumulation of bacterial life, and therefore impairs the quality of the milk. The determination of the 52 Dairy Bacteriology. acid in milk can be made accurately by titration with standard solutions of alkali, or more readily, in general work, by employing the Farrington alkaline tablet, which is a combination of a definite amount of standard alkali and an indicator (phenolphthalein). It is possible by the use of the tablet solution to make as accurate determina- tion of acidity as with the usual standard solutions em- ployed in the laboratory, but the method may also be used rapidly in such a way as to give an approximate deter- mination of acid. This modification is very serviceable at the weigh-can or intake where it is necessary to pass judg- ment very quickly on the quality of the milk. Fia. 15. Apparatus used in making rapid acid test. Making the acid test Fig. 15 gives the apparatus nec- essary for this rapid testing of the acidity of the milk. A solution of the alkaline tablets is first prepared by dissolv- Contamination of Milk. 53 ing them in clean soft water, one tablet for each ounce of water; thus eight tablets to an eight-ounce bottle of water. In determining the acidity, a number of common white cups are used, one for each patron. Two measures full ' of the alkali solution are placed in each cup, and then as the milk is received at the weigh-can, one measure of milk is added to the alkali solution in the cup,2 and the whole gently, but thoroughly shaken. If the pink color of the alkali solution persists even fainthr, it shows that there is not enough acid in the milk to neutralize the the same; if it disappears alto- gether, leaving the milk white in color, it indicates that there is more acid in the milk than can be neutralized by the alkali of the tablet solution. When these proportions of milk and alkali solution (2:1) are employed, it indicates an acidity of 0.2 per cent, figured as lactic acid. Milk should not contain more than this amount of acid, and under good methods of handling, the acidity should be brought down to 0.15 per cent if possible. Circumstances may arise that might lead to an error if this method is blindly followed. It has been pointed out * that if milk is allowed to stand in rusty cans for some time its acid content is diminished materially. The aver- age acidity of nine samples of milk brought to a factory in clean cans was .228 per cent acidity, while that of nine other patrons brought in rusty cans was only .134 per cent. Milk kept in rusty cans is sure to contain large quantities of bacteria, even though its acid content may be low. Kinds Of bacteria in milk. The number of bacteria in milk is not of so much consequence as the kind present. 1 A brass cartridge shell provided with a handle serves admirably for a meas- ure. 2 Farrington, Bull. 52, Wis. Expt. Stat. 8 Biddick, Hoard's Dairyman, July 30, 1897. 54 Dairy Bacteriology. With reference to the number of kinds present, the more dirt and foreign matter the milk contains, the larger the num- ber of varieties found in the same. While milk may con- tain forms that are injurious to man, still the great majority of them have no apparent effect on human health. In their effect on milk, the case is much different. Depend- ing upon their action in milk, they may be grouped into three classes: 1. Bacteria that exert no appreciable effect in milk. 2. Bacteria that are beneficial by reason of the products which they form. 3. Bacteria that are injurious on account of the effect which they produce in milk. A surprisingly large number of bacteria that are found in milk belong to the first class. Undoubtedly they af- fect the chemical characteristics of the milk somewhat, but not to the extent that it becomes physically percep- tible. Eckles l reports in a creamery supply from 20 to 55 per cent of entire flora as included in this class. Those species that are concerned in the production of proper flavor and aroma in butter, and which are also cdncerned in the development of acid and possibly asso- ciated with formation of cheese flavor represent the sec- ond type. Many of these organisms are lactic acid-pro- ducing, but in addition to these, some of the casein ferments are also associated with aroma production in but- ter. Under normal conditions b}r far the larger proportion of bacteria present in milk belong to the lactic acid type. There are always present, though, digesting species that are able to grow if the lactic acid forms are killed, as in pasteurizing. i Eckles, Bull. 59, Iowa Expt. Stat., Aug., 1901. Contamination of Milk. 55 The third class includes those species that are able to produce deleterious and undesirable flavors in milk and milk products. The abnormal fermentations of milk re- ferred to in the next chapter come under this head. Most of these gain access to the milk through slovenly arid care- less methods of handling. Those species associated with ani mal excreta are particularly dangerous. The number of different kinds that have been found in milk is quite con- siderable, something over 200 species having been described more or less thoroughly. In all probability, however, many of these forms will be found to be identical when they are subjected to a more critical study. Direct absorption Of taints. A tainted condition in milk may result from the development of bacteria, acting upon various constituents of the milk, and transforming these in such away as to produce by-products that impair the flavor or appearance of the liquid; or it may be produced by the milk being brought in contact with any odoriferous or aromatic substance, under conditions that permit of the direct absorption of such odors. This latter class of taints is entirely independent of bac- terial action, and is largely attributable to the physical property which milk possesses of being able to absorb vola- tile odors, the fat in particular, having a great affinity for many of these substances. This direct absorption may occur before the milk is withdrawn from the animal, or afterwards if exposed to strong odors. It is not uncommon for the milk of animals advanced in lactation to have a more or less strongly marked odor and taste; sometimes this is apt to be bitter, at other times salty to the taste. It is a defect that is peculiar to indi- vidual animals and is liable to recur at approximately the same period in lactation. 56 Dairy Bacteriology. The peculiar "cowy " or "animal odor" of fresh milk is an inherent peculiarity that is due to the direct absorption of volatile elements from the animal herself. This condi- tion is very much exaggerated when the animal consumes strong-flavored substances as garlic, leeks, turnips and cab- bage. The volatile substances that give to these vegetables their characteristic odor are quickly diffused through the system, and if such foods are consumed some few hours be- fore milking, the odor in the milk will be most pronounced. The intensity of such taints is diminished greatly and often wholly disappears, if the milking is not done for some hours (8-12) after such foods are consumed. This same principle applies in lesser degree to mary green fodders that are more suitable as feed for animals, as silage, green rye, rape, etc. Not infrequently, such fodders as these produce so strong a taint in milk as to render it useless for human use. Troubles from such sources could be entirely obviated by feeding limited quantities of such material immediately after milking. Under such condi- tions the taint produced is usually eliminated before the next milking. The milk of swill-fed cows is said to possess a peculiar taste, and the urine of animals fed on this food is said to be abnormally acid. Brewers' grains and distil- lery slops when fed in excess also induce a similar condi- tion in the milk. Milk may also acquire other than volatile substances di- rectly from the animal, as in cases where drugs, as bella- donna, castor oil, sulfur, turpentine, jalap, croton oil, and many others have been used as medicine. Such min- eral poisons as arsenic have been known to appear eight hours after ingestion, and persist for a period of three weeks before being eliminated. Contamination of Milk, 57 Absorption of odors after milking:. If milk is brought in contact with strong odors after being drawn from the ani- mal, it will absorb them readily, as in the barn, where fre- quently it is exposed to the odor of manure and other fermenting organic matter. It has long been a popular belief that milk evolves odors and cannot absorb them so long as it is warmer than the surrounding air, but from experimental evidence, the writer1 has definitely shown that the direct absorption of odors takes place much more rapidly when the milk is warm than when cold, although under either condition, it absorbs volatile substances with considerable avidity. In this test fresh milk was exposed to an atmosphere im- pregnated with odors of various essential oils and other odor-bearing substances. Under these conditions, the cooler milk was tainted very much less than the milk at body temperature even where the period of exposure was brief. It is therefore evident that an exposure in the cow barn where the volatile emanations from the animals themselves and their excreta taint the air will often result in the ab- sorption of these odors by the milk to such an extent as to seriously affect the flavor. The custom of straining the milk in the barn has long been deprecated as inconsistent with proper dairy prac- tice, and in the light of the above experiments, an additional reason is evident why this should not be done. Even after milk is thoroughly cooled, it may absorb odors as seen where the same is stored in a refrigerator with certain fruits, meats, fish, etc. Distinguishing bacterial from non-bacterial taints. In perfectly fresh milk, it is relatively easy to distinguish be- * Russell, 15 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat. 1898, p. 104. 58 Dairy Bacteriology. tween taints caused by the growth of bacteria and those attributable to direct absorption. If the taint is evident at time of milking, it is in all probability due to character of feed consumed, or possibly to medicines. If, however, the intensity of the taint grows more pronounced as the milk becomes older, then it is probably due to living organisms, which require a certain period of incubation before their fermentative properties are most evident. Moreover, if the difficulty is of bacterial origin, it can be frequently transferred to another lot of milk (heated or sterilized is preferable) by inoculating same with some of the original milk. Not all abnormal fermentations are able though to compete with the lactic acid bacteria, and hence outbreaks of this sort soon die out by the re-estab- lishment of more normal conditions. Treatment of directly absorbed taints. Much can be done to overcome taints of this nature by exercising greater care in regard to the feed of animals, and especially as to the time of feeding and milking. But with milk already tainted, it is often possible to materially improve its con- dition. Thorough aeration has been frequently recom- mended, but most satisfactory results have been obtained where a combined process of aeration and pasteurization was resorted to. Where the milk is used in making but- ter,, the difficulty has been successfully met by washing the cream with twice its volume of hot water in which a little saltpeter has been dissolved (one teaspoonful per gallon), and then separating it again.1 The treatment of abnormal conditions due to bacteria has been given already under the respective sources of in- i Alvord, Circ. No. 9, U. S. Dept. Agric. (Div. of Sot.). Contamination of Milk. 59 fection, and is also still further amplified in following chapter. Aeration. Practical experience has long demonstrated the advantage of aerating the milk as soon after milking as possible. This is accomplished in a variety of ways. In some cases, air is forced into the milk; in others, the milk is allowed to distribute itself in a thin sheet over a broad surface and fall some distance so that it is brought inti- mately in contact with the air. The benefit claimed for aeration is that foul odors and gases which may be present in the milk are thus allowed to escape by bringing the finely divided milk into contact with the air. As ordi- narily practiced, aeration is usually combined with cooling, and it is noteworthy that the most effective aerators are those that cool simultaneously. Under these conditions, the keeping quality of the milk is increased, but where milk is simply aerated without cooling, no material benefit in keeping quality is observed. A satisfactory scientific explanation of the advantages of aeration has not yet been made. It is difficult to see how the process can have any effect on the bacterial life in the milk. Its influence, un- doubtedly, is on the odors directly absorbed by the milk. Infection of milk in the factory. The problem of proper handling of milk is not entirely solved when the milk is delivered to the factory or creamery, although it might be said that the danger of infection is much greater Avhile the milk is on the" form. Then, too, contamination of milk at time of withdrawal gives a longer period of incubation for the bacteria in the milk, and consequently intensifies the effect which they produce. In the factory, infection can be minimized because ef- fective measures of cleanliness can be more easity applied. 60 Dairy Bacteriology. Steam is available in most cases, so that all vats, cans, churns and pails can be thoroughly scalded. Special em- phasis should be given to the matter of cleaning pumps and pipes. The difficulty of keeping these utensils clean often leads to neglect and subsequent infection. Care must be taken relative to the use of worn apparatus. All cans with rusty seams should be discarded. Permit no vat to be repaired by putting in a false covering over the old one. If a minute leak is established, such places be- come a harbor of refuge for all kinds of putrefactive or- ganisms. In a number of cases ill-smelling factory odors have been traced to such a cause. The influence of the air on the germ content of the milk is, as a rule, overestimated. If the air is quiet, and free from dust, the amount of germ life in the same is not rela- tively large. In a creamery or factory, infection from this source ought to be much reduced, for the reason that the floors and wall are, as a rule, quite damp, and hence germ life cannot easily be dislodged. The majority of organisms found under such conditions come from the person of the operators and attendants. Any infection can easily be prevented by having the ripening cream-vats covered with a canvas cloth. The clothing of the operator should be different from the ordinary wearing-apparel. If made of white duck, the presence of dirt is more quickly recog- nized, and greater care will therefore be taken than if or- dinary clothes are worn. The surroundings of the factory have much to do with the danger of germ infection. Many factories are poorly constructed and the drainage is poor, so that filth and slime collect about and especially under the factory. The ema- nations from these give the peculiar " factory odor " that indicates fermenting matter. Not only are these odors Contamination of Milk. 61 absorbed directly, but germ life from the same is apt to find its way into the milk. Connell1 has recently re- ported a serious defect in cheese that was traced to germ infection from defective factory drains. The water supply of a factory is also a question of prime importance. When taken from a shallow well, especially if surface drainage from the factory is possible, the water may be contaminated to such an extent as to introduce undesirable bacteria in such numbers that the normal course of fermentation may be changed. The quality of the water, aside from flavor, can be best determined by making a curd test (p. 76) which is done by adding some of the water to boiled milk and incubating the same. If " gassy " fermentations occur, it signifies an abnormal con- dition. In deep wells, pumped as thoroughly as is gener- erally the case with factory wells, the germ content should be very low, ranging from a few score to a few hundred bacteria per cc. at most. Harrison 2 has recently traced an off-flavor in cheese in a Canadian factory to an infection arising from the water- supply. He found the same germ in both water and cheese and by inoculating a culture into pasteurized milk suc- ceeded in producing the undesirable flavor. The danger from ice is much less, for the reason that good dairy prac- tice does not sanction using ice directly in contact with milk or cream. Then, too, ice is largely purified in the process of freezing, although if secured from a polluted source, reliance should not be placed in the method of purification; for even freezing does not destroy all vege- tating bacteria. i Connell, Kept, of Commissioner of Agr ., Canada, 1897, part XVI, p. 15. 9 Harrison, Hoard's Dairyman, March 4, 1898. CHAPTER IV. FERMENTATIONS IN MILK AND THEIR TREATMENT. IT has been shown in the preceding chapter that the contamination of milk with bacteria occurs so constantly that under normal conditions it always contains a varying amount of germ life. The result of this infection is to cause in the milk, in due course of time, subsequent changes of a fermentative nature. As a rule milk sours, due to the production of acid from the decomposition of the milk sugar; but, not infrequently, this more common change is supplanted by other types of fermentative activity that re- sult in the production of other kinds of by-products. These fermentations are sometimes designated as abnormal, be- cause of their less frequent occurrence. It is impossible in the present state of knowledge to sat- isfactorily classify these changes; but provisionally, they may be grouped according to the substances on which they act, or on the basis of the most prominent by-product formed. Milk is such a complex substance that the changes pro- duced by a single germ are often so numerous that the processes cannot be separated in their reactions. It must be remembered then, in referring to the different types of fermentations, that perhaps a distinct by-product is being formed, but it is more than probable that there are a series of changes, in which the most marked decomposition by- product is alone taken into consideration. For example, there is a fermentation classed under the head of the bu- Fermentations in Milk. 63 tyric changes, a decomposition process in which butyric acid is the chief product formed, but this may be associ- ated with an alkaline condition of the milk and the pro- duction of a bitter substance in the same. Thus, the sub- division followed here will , of necessity be imperfect, and occasional instances will be noted where some changes in milk might well be described under several heads. It is possible that milk may acquire an abnormal odor or taint, such as is due to direct absorption, without having under- gone any fermentative change, but the introduction of various forms of bacteria is so common that fermentative changes due to living ferments are constantly at work. Souring Of milk. Milk naturally undergoes a change known as souring, if allowed to stand for several days at ordinary temperature. This is due to the formation of lactic acid, which is produced by the decomposition of the milk-sugar. While this change is wellnigh universal, it does not occur without a pre-existing cause, and that is the presence of certain living bacterial forms. These organ- isms develop in milk with great rapidity, and the decom- position changes that are noted in souring are due to the by-products of their development. The milk-sugar undergoes fermentation, the chief pro- duct being lactic acid, although various other by-products, .as other organic acids (acetic, formic and succinic), dif- ferent alcohols and gaseous products, as C02, H, N and methane (CH4) are produced in small amounts. In this fermentation, the acidity begins to be evident to the taste when it reaches about 0.3 per cent, calculated as lactic acid. As the formation of acid goes on, the casein is precipitated and incipient curdling or lobbering of the milk occurs. This begins to be apparent when the acidity 64 Dairy Bacteriology. is about 0.4 per cent, but the curd becomes more solid with increasing acidity. The action of the bacteria is con- tinued until about 0.8 to 1.0 per cent acid is formed, although the maximum amount fluctuates considerably with differ- ent organisms.1 Further formation then ceases, by reason of the inability of the lactic acid organisms to continue their development in such acid solutions. There is always left in the milk a considerable amount of unfermented milk-sugar which can be further acted upon by the con- tinued growth of the bacteria, if a carbonate is added to the milk to neutralize the developing acid that inhibits their growth. Cream never develops as much acid as milk, because a larger proportion of its volume is made up of butter-fat which is not subject to this change. In the ripening of cream in butter-making, it is necessary to take this fact into consideration where the cream varies widely in per cent of fat. The formation of lactic acid is a characteristic that is possessed by a large number of bacteria, micrococci as well as bacilli being numerously represented. Still the pre- ponderance of evidence is in favor of the view that one main type is responsible for most of this fermentation. The most prominent organism associated with this change is Bacillus acidi lactici, first described by Hiippe.9 Giin- therand Thierfelder3 working on the spontaneous souring of milk in the neighborhood of Berlin found what they think is the same germ. Esten,4 in this country, studied milks from thirty different localities in New England and > Warrington, Jour. Chem. Soc., 1888, 53:727. 8 HUppe, Mitt. a. cL k. Gesundheitsamte, 1884, 2:309. * Gtinther and Thierfelder, Arch. f. Hyg., 25:164. « Esten, 9 Kept. Storrs Expt Stat., 1896, p. 44. Fermentations in Milk. 65 the Middle States. He found a germ in all but two cases that agreed in general with Gunther's description. Din- widdie,1 studying the same question in Arkansas, arrives at the same conclusion. This preponderance of evidence makes it quite probable that there is a widely distributed germ that is concerned in this change although undoubt- edly different varieties exist. Besides this widely dissemi- nated type, there are numerous other forms 2 that are associated with this type of decomposition the most promi- nent of which is known as B. lactis aerogenes. Conn and Aikman refer to the fact that over one hundred species are already known. It is fair to presume, however, that a careful comparative study of these would show that simply racial differences exist in many cases, and therefore, that they are not distinct species. This class of bacteria is characterized by their inability to liquefy gelatin or develop spores. On account of this latter characteristic they are easily destroyed when milk is pasteurized. They live under aerobic or anaerobic condi- tions, many of them being able to grow in either environ- ment, although, according to McDonnell,3 they are more virulent when air is not excluded. The- temperature conditions as to growth vary somewhat with different species. With most species this occurs at 50° F., but appreciable amounts of acid are not produced until a higher temperature is reached.4 The optimum temperatures for growth range from 90°-95° F. While the souring of milk is a very wide-spread phenom- enon, still lactic acid organisms are not universal^ dis- 1 Bull. 45, Ark. Expt. Stat., May 1897; Leichmann, Hyg. Rund., 1899, p. 1267. 2 Kayser, Ann. de Tlnst Past., 10:737. 3 McDonnell, Inaug. Diss., Kiel, 1899, p. 39. * Kayser, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt. 1:436. 5 66 Dairy Bacteriology. tributed. According to Conn ' they are not very abun- dant in perfectly fresh milk, but because of their ability to thrive so luxuriantly in this liquid, they grow with great rapidity, and therefore after a few hours milk always con- tains them in abundance. It is a wide-spread belief that thunder storms cause milk to sour prematurely, but this idea has no scientific founda- tion. Experiments9 with the electric spark, ozone and loud detonations show no effect on acid development, but the atmospheric conditions usually incident to a thunder storm are such as permit of a more rapid growth of organ- isms. There is no reason to believe but that the phenom- enon of souring is wholly related to the development of bacteria. Sterile milks are never affected by the action of electric storms. " Gassy " milks. A large number of bacteria possess the property of fermenting sugars and producing gases of various kinds as well as acids of a volatile or fixed char- acter. The amount of acid formed is generally consider- ably less than that produced by the normal lactic species. Among the gases formed, H and C02 are most common, although N and CH4 (methane) are sometimes produced. In connection with these gases, there are also other de- composition products of a more or less volatile nature that frequently impart to the milk taints of an undesirable character. While these " gassy " defects can often be recognized in the milk itself, they are much more apt to cause trouble in the manufacture of cheese (see Fig. 16), where, in severe cases, curds may " float" or be "pin holey."* There are 1 Conn, Agricultural Bacteriology, p. 191. » Treadwell, Science, 1804, 17: 178. » Freudenreich, Landw. Jahr. cL Schweiz, 1890, p. 17; Russell, 12 Eept Wte. Ezpt. Stat., 1895, p. 189. Fermentations in Milk. 67 a large number of organisms of this class found in surface waters, soils and in decomposing organic matter. The colon bacillus of the intestinal tract is a germ of this type FIG. 16. Cheese made from " gassy " milk. that finds its way into milk with manure particles. B. lactis aerogenes, a common inhabitant of milk is also a gas-pro- ducer. Abnormal fermentations of this class occur most frequently in the hot summer months, but are not neces- sarily confined to this season. Wherever carelessness pre- vails in the matter of cleaning utensils, troubles from gassy milks are very apt to occur. "Sweet curdling" and digesting: fermentations. Not infrequently milk, instead of undergoing spontaneous sour- ing, curdles in a weakly acid or neutral condition, in which state it is said to have undergone " sweet curdling." The coagulation of the milk is caused by the action of enzyms of a rennet type that are formed by the growth of various species of bacteria. Later the whey separates more or less perfectly from the curd, producing a "wheyed off" condi- tion. Generally the coagulum in these cases is soft and 68 Dairy Bacteriology. somewhat slimy. The curd usually diminishes in bulk, due to the gradual digestion or peptonization of the casein by proteid-dissolving enzyms (tryptic type) that are also produced by the bacteria causing the change. A large number of bacteria possess the property of af- fecting milk in the above way. Generally they are able to liquefy gelatin (also a peptonizing process) and form spores. The Tyrothrix type of bacteria (so named by Du- claux on account of the supposed relation to cheese ripen- ing) belongs to this class. The hay and potato forms are also digesters. Organisms of this type are generally as- sociated with filth and manure, and find their way into the milk from the accumulations on the coat of the aniinal. Conn ' has separated the rennet enzym from bacterial cultures in a relatively pure condition, while Fermi'2 has isolated the digestive principle from several species. Duclaux3 has given to this digesting enzym the name casease or cheese ferment. These isolated ferments when added to fresh milk possess the power of causing the char- acteristic curdling and subsequent digestion quite inde- pendent of cell development. The quantity of ferment produced by different species differs materially in some cases. In these digestive fermentations, the chemical trans- formations are profound, the complex proteid molecule being broken down into albumoses, peptones, amido-acids (ty rosin and leucin) and ammonia as well as fatty acids. Not infrequently these fermentations gain the ascend- ency over the normal souring change, but under ordinary conditions they are held in abeyance, although this type of bacteria is always present to some extent in milk. When ' Conn, 5 Kept, Storrs Expt. Stat.. 1892. p. 396. » Fermi, Arch. f. Hyg., 1892, 14:1. * Duclaux, Le Lait, p. 121. Fermentations in Milk. 69 the lactic acid bacteria are destroyed, as in boiled, sterilized or pasteurized milk, these rennet-producing, digesting species develop. Butyric acid fermentations. The formation of butyric acid in milk which may be recognized by the "rancid but- ter" odor is not infrequently seen in old, sour milk, and for a long time was thought to be a continuation of the lactic fermentation, but it is now believed that these or- ganisms find more favorable conditions for growth, not so much on account of the lactic acid formed as in the ab- sence of dissolved oxygen in the milk which is consumed by the sour-milk organisms. Most of the butyric class of bacteria are spore-bearing, and hence they are frequently present in boiled or steril- ized milk. The by-products formed in this series of changes are quite numerous. In most cases, butyric acid is promi- nent, but in addition to this, other organic acids, as lactic, succinic, and acetic, are produced, likewise different alco- hols. Concerning the chemical origin of butyric acid there is yet some doubt. Duclaux l affirms that the fat, sugar and casein are all decomposed by various forms. In some cases, the reaction of the milk is alkaline, with other species it may be neutral or acid. This type of fer- mentation has not received th'e study it deserves. In milk these organisms are not of great importance, as this fermentation does not readily gain the ascendency over the lactic bacteria. Ropy or slimy milk. The viscosity of milk is often markedly increased over that which it normally possesses. The intensity of this abnormal condition may vary much; in some cases the milk becoming viscous or slimy; in others 1 Duclaux, Principes de Laiterie, p. 67. 70 Dairy Bacteriology. stringing out into long threads, several feet in length, as in Fig. 17. Two sets of conditions are responsible for these ropy or slimy milks. The most com- mon is where the milk is clotted or stringy when drawn, as in some forms of garget. This is generally due to the presence of viscid pus, and is often ac- companied by a bloody discharge, such a condition representing an inflamed state of the udder. Ropiness of this character is not usually communicable from one lot of milk to another. The communicable form of ropy milk only appears after the milk has been drawn from the udder for a day or so, and is caused by the development of various species of bacteria which find their way into the milk after it is drawn. These defects are liable to occur at any season of the year. Their presence in a dairy is a source of much trouble, as the unsightly appearance of the milk precludes its use as food, although there is no evidence that these ropy fermen- Fl°- 17- R°PV milk- tations are dangerous to health. There are undoubtedly a number of different species of bacteria that are capable of producing these viscid changes,1 but it is quite probable that they are not of equal im- portance in infecting milk under natural conditions. In the majority of cases studied in this country,* the 1 Guillebeau (Milch Zeit., 1892, p. 808) has studied over a dozen different forms that possess this property. * Ward, Bull. 165, Cornell Expt. Stat., Mch., 1899; also Bull. 195, Ibid., Nov., 1901. Fermentations in Milk. 71 causal organism seems to be B. lactis viscosus. a form first found by Adametz in surface waters.1 This organism pos- sesses the property of developing at low temperatures (45°-50° F.), and consequently it is often able in winter to supplant the lactic-acid forms. Ward has found this germ repeatedly in water tanks where milk cans are cooled; and under these conditions it is easy to see how infection of the milk might occur. Marshall 2 reports an outbreak which he traced to an external infection of the udder; in another case, the slime-forming organism was abundant in the barn dust. A defect of this character is often per- petuated in a dairy for some time, and may therefore be- come exceedingly troublesome. In one instance in the writer's experience, a milk dealer lost over $150 a month for several months from ropy cream. Failure to properly sterilize cans, and particularly strainer cloths, is frequently responsible for a continuance of trouble of this sort. The slimy substance formed in milk comes from vari- ous constituents of the milk, and the chemical character of the slime produced also varies with different germs. In some cases the slimy material is merely the swollen outer cell membrane of the bacteria themselves as in the case of B. lactis viscosus; in others it is due to the decomposition of the proteids, but often the chief decomposition product appears to come from a viscous fermentation of the milk- sugar. An interesting case of a fermentation of this class being utilized in dairying is seen in the use of ulangewei" (long or stringy whey) which is employed as a starter in Holland to control the gassy fermentations in Edam cheese. 1 Adametz, Landw. Jahr., 1891, p. 185. 2 Marshall, Mich. Expt. Stat., Bull. 140. 72 Dairy Bacteriology. This slimy change is due to the growth of Streptococcus Hollandicus.1 Alcoholic fermentations. Although glucose or cane- sugar solutions are extremely prone to undergo alcoholic fermentation, milk sugar does not readily decompose. The more important alcoholic ferments are the yeasts, which do not thrive readily in the milk, although Duclaux2 re- ports a serious case in a dairy due to this cause. Koumiss, a beverage originally made in the Orient from mare's milk, is an example of an alcoholic fermentation which is produced hy the addition of cane sugar and yeast to ordinary cow's milk. It is used with success in gastric troubles. In addition to the C02 developed which gives it its effervescent qualities, alcohol, lactic acid, and casein- dissolving ferments are also formed. Kephir is another alcoholic drink made from milk that is in common use among the people of Caucasus. It is made by adding to milk kephir grains, which are merely a mass of fermented cells (yeasts and bacteria) that start the fermentation. This milk is then mixed with fresh milk and kept in leather flasks until a mixed fermentation sets in. The nature of the change is not yet thoroughly under- stood,8 although it is quite probable that the alcoholic change is produced by a yeast, while bacteria change the casein more or less. Bitter milk. The presence of bitter substances in milk may be ascribed to a variety of causes. A number of plants, such as lupines, wormwood and chicory, possess the prop- erty of affecting milk when the same are consumed by ani- ' Milch Zeit., 1889, p. 982. 'Duclaux, Principes de Laiterie. p. 60. ' Freudenreich, Landw. Jahr. d. Schweiz, 1896, 10:.l. Fermentations in Milk. 73 mals. At certain stages in lactation, a bitter salty taste is occasionally to be noted that is peculiar to individual ani- mals. A considerable number of cases of bitter milk have, how- ever, been traced to bacterial origin. For a number of years the bitter fermentation of milk was thought to be associated with the butyric fermentation, but Weigmann1 showed that the two conditions were not dependent upon each other. He found that the organism which produced the bitter taste acted upon the casein. Conn2 observed a coccus form in bitter cream that was able to impart a bitter flavor to milk. Sometimes a bitter condition does not develop in the milk, but may appear later in the milk products, as in the case of a micrococcus which Freudenreich 3 found in cheese. Cream ripened at low temperatures not infrequently de- velops a bitter flavor, showing that the optimum tempera- ture for this type of fermentation is below the typical lactic acid change. It has long been a question how to account chemically for the bitter taste in milk. Various ideas have been ad- vanced, but Freudenreich has demonstrated in one case that a bitter substance is formed in the milk that can be isolated by adding alcohol. Milk that has been cooked is likely to develop a bitter condition. The explanation of this is that the bacteria producing the bitter substances usually possess endospores, and that while the boiling or sterilizing of milk easily kills the lactic acid germs, these forms on account of their greater resisting powers are not destroyed by the heat. i Weigmann. Milch Zeit., 1890, p. 881. 8 Conn, 3 Kept. Storrs Expt. Stat., 1890, p. 153. a Freudenreich, Fiihl. Landw. Ztg., 43: 361. 74 Dairy Bacteriology. Soapy milk: A soapy flavor in milk was traced by Weig- mann and Ziru * to a specific bacillus, B. lactis saponacei, that they found gained access to the milk in one case from the bedding and in another instance from ha}r. A similar outbreak has been reported in this country,2 due to a germ acting on the casein and albumen. Red milk. The most common trouble of this nature in milk is due to presence of blood, which is most fre- quently caused by some wound in the udder. The inges- tion of certain plants as sedges and scouring rushes is also said to cause a bloody condition; madders impart a red- dish tinge due to coloring matter absorbed. Defects of this class can be readily distinguished from those due to germ growth because they are apparent at time of milking. Where blood is actually present, the corpuscles settle out in a short time if left undisturbed. There are a number of chromogenic or color-producing bacteria that are able to grow in milk, but their action is so slow that generally they are not of much consequence. Moreover their development is usually confined to the sur- face of the milk as it stands in a vessel. The most import- ant is the well-known B. prodigiosus. Another form found at times in milk possessing low acidity3 is B. lactis erythro- genes. This species only develops the red color in the dark. In the light, it forms a yellow pigment. Various other organisms have been reported at different times.4 Blue milk. Blue milk has been known for many years, its communicable nature being established as long ago as 1838. It appears on the surface of milk first as isolated » Miloh Zeit. 22:5(59. 'Marshall, Bull. 146, Mich. Expt. Stat., p. 16. « Grotenfelt, Milch Zeit., 1833, p. 283. «Menge, Cent. f. Bakt., 6:590; Keferstein, Cent. f. B?.kt., 21:177. Fermentations in Milk. 75 particles of bluish or grey color, which later become con- fluent, the blue color increasing in intensity as the acidity increases. The causal organism, B. cyanogenes, is very re- sistant toward drying,1 thus accounting for its persistence. In Mecklenberg an outbreak of this sort once continued for several years. It has frequently been observed in Eu- rope in the past, but is not now so often reported. Occa- sional outbreaks have been reported in this country. Other kinds of colored milk. Two or three chromo- genic forms producing still other colors have occasionally been found in milk. Adametz 9 discovered in a sample of cooked milk a peculiar form (Bacillus synxanthus) that produced a citron-yellow appearance which precipitated and finally rendered soluble the casein. Adanietz, Conn, and List have described other species that confer tints of yellow on milk. Some of these are bright lemon, others orange, and some amber in color. Still other color-producin 8 bacteria, such as those that produce violet or green changes in the milk, have been ob- served. In fact, almost any of the chromogenic bacteria are able to produce their color changes in milk as it is such an excellent food medium. Under ordinary conditions, these do not gain access to milk in sufficient numbers so that they modify the appearance ot it except in occa.jional instances. Treatment of abnormal fermentations. If the taint is recognized as of bacterial origin (see p. 57) and is found in the mixed milk of the herd, it is necessary to ascertain, first, whether it is a general trouble, or restricted to one or more animals. This can sometimes be done by separating J Helm, Arb. a. d. Kais. Gesundheitsamte, 5:578. a Adametz, Milch Zeit., 1890, p. 225. 76 Dairy Bacteriology. the milk of the different cows and noting whether any ab- normal condition develops in the respective samples. Fermentation tests. The moot satisfactory way to de- tect the presence of the taints more often present is to make a fermentation test of one kind or another. These tests are most frequently used at the factory, to enable the maker to detect the presence of milk that is likely to prove unfit for use, especially in cheese making. They are based upon the principle that if milk is held at a moderately high temperature, the bacteria will develop rapidly. A number of different methods have been devised for this purpose. In Walther^s lacto-fermentator samples of milk are simply allowed to stand in bottles or glass jars until they sour. They are examined at intervals of several hours. If the curdled milk is homogeneous and has a pure acid smell, the milk is regarded as all right. If it floats in a turbid serum, is full of gas or ragged holes, it is abnormal. As generally carried out, no attempt is made to have these vessels ster- ile. Gerber's test is a similar test that has been extensively employed in Switzerland. Sometimes a few drops of rennet are added to the milk so as to curdle the same, and thus permit of the more ready detection of the gas that is evolved. Wisconsin curd test. The method of testing milk de- scribed below was devised at the Wisconsin Experiment Station in 1895 by Babcock, Russell and Decker.1 It was used first in connection with experimental work on the influence of gas-generating bacteria in cheese making, but its applicability to the detection of all taints in milk pro- duced by bacteria makes it a valuable test for abnormal fermentations in general. In the curd test a small pat of curd is made in a glass » 12 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1895, p. 148; also Bull. 67, Ibid., June, 1898. Fermentations in Milk. 77 jar from each sample of milk. These tests may be made in any receptacle that has been cleaned in boiling water, and to keep the temperature more nearly uniform these jars should be immersed in warm water, as in a wash tub or some other receptacle. When the milk is about 95° F., about ten drops of rennet extract are added to each sample and mixed thoroughly with the milk. The jars should then remain undisturbed until the milk is completely curdled; then the curd is cut into small pieces with a case knife and stirred to expel the whey. The whey should be poured off at frequent intervals until the curd mats. If the sample be kept at blood heat (98° F.) for six to eight hours, it will be ready to examine. FIG. 18. Improved bottles for making curd test. A, test bottle complete; B, bottle showing construction of cover; S, sieve to hold back the curd when bottle is inverted; C, outer cover with (D IT) drain holes to permit of removal of whey. More convenient types of this test than the improvised apparatus just alluded to have been devised by different dairy manufacturers. Generally, they consist of a special bottle having a full-sized top, thus permitting the easy 78 Dairy Bacteriology. with a sieve of such construction that the bottles will drain thoroughly if inclined in an inverted position. Interpretation of results of test. The curd from a good milk has a firm, solid texture, and should contain at most only a few small pin holes. It may have some large, irreg- ular, ''mechanical1' holes where the curd particles have failed to cement, as is seen in Fig. 19. If gas-producing bac- Fto. 19. Curd from a good milk. The large Irregular holes are Hiechanical. teria are very prevalent in the milk, the conditions under which the test is made cause such a rapid growth of the same that the evidence of the abnormal fermentation may bs readily seen in the spongy texture of the curd (Fig. 20). If the undesirable organisms are not very abundant and the conditions not especially suited to their growth, the " pin holes " will be less frequent. Sometimes the curds show no evidence of gas, but their abnormal condition can be recognized by the "mushy" texture and the presence of " off" flavors that are rendered more apparent by keeping them in closed bottles. This condition is abnormal and is apt to produce quite as serious results as if gas was formed. Fermentations in Milk. 79 Overcoming taints by use of starters. Another method of combatting abnormal fermentations that is often fruit- ful, is that which rests upon the inability of one kind of bacteria to grow in the same medium in competition with certain other species. Some of the undesirable taints in factories can be con- trolled in large part by the introduction of starters made FIG. 20. Curd from a badly tainted milk. Large ragged holes are mechanical; numerous small holes due to gas. This curd was a " floater." from certain organisms that are able to obtain the ascend- ency over the taint-producing germ. Such a method is commonly followed when a lactic ferment, either a com- mercial pure culture, or a home-made starter, is added to milk to overcome the effect of gas-generating bacteria. A similar illustration is seen in the case of the " lange wei" (slimy whey), that is used in the manufacture of Edam cheese to control the character of the fermentation of the milk. This same method is sometimes applied in dealing with certain abnormal fermentations that are apt to occur on the farm. It is particularly useful with those tainted milks known as " sweet curdling." The ferment organisms con- 80 Dairy Bacteriology. cerned in this change are unable to develop in the presence of lactic acid bacteria, so the addition of a clean sour milk as a starter restores the normal conditions by giving the ordinary milk bacteria the ascendency. Chemical disinfection. In exceptional instances it may be necessary to employ chemical disinfectants to restore the normal conditions. Of course with such diseases as tuberculosis, very stringent measures are required, as they are such a direct menace to human life, but with these abnormal or taint-producing fermentations, care and clean- liness, well directed, will usually overcome the trouble. If it becomes necessary to employ chemical substances as disinfecting agents, their use should always be preceded by a thorough cleansing with hot water so that the germi- cide may come in direct contact with the surface to be disinfected. It must be borne in mind that many chemicals act as deodorants, i. e., destroy the offensive odor, without destroy- ing the cause of the trouble. Sulfur is often recommended as a disinfecting agent, but its use should be carefully controlled, otherwise the vapors have but little germicidal power. The common practice of burning a small quantity in a room or any closed space for a few moments has little or no effect upon germ life. The effect of sulfur vapor (S02) alone upon germ life is relatively slight, but if this gas is produced in the presence of mois- ture, sulfurous acid (H2S03) is formed, which is much more efficient. To use this agent effectively, it must be burned in large quantities in a moist atmosphere (three Ibs. to every 1,000 cubic feet of space), for at least twelve hours. After this operation, the space should be thoroughly aired. Formalin, a watery solution of a gas known as form- aldehyde, is a new disinfectant that recent experience has Fermentations in Milk. 81 demonstrated to be very useful. It may be used as a gas where rooms are to be disinfected, or applied as a liquid where desired. It is much more powerful in its action than sulfur, and it has a great advantage over mercury and other strong disinfectants, as it is not so poisonous to man as it is to the lower forms of life. Bleaching powder or chloride of lime is often recommended where a chemical can be advantageously used. This sub- stance is a good disinfectant as well as a deodorant, and if applied as a wash, in the proportion of four to six ounces of the powder to one gallon of v/ater, it will destroy most forms of life. In many cases this a:;ent is inapplicable on account of its odor. Corrosive sublimate (Hg 01 2) for most purposes is a good disinfectant, but it is such an intense poison that its use is dangerous in places that are at all accessible to stock. For the disinfection of walls in stables and barns, com- mon thin white wash (Ca OH) is admirably adapted if made from freshly-burned quick lime. It possesses strong germi- cidal powers, increases the amount of light in the barn, is a good absorbent of odors, and is exceedingly cheap. Carbolic acid, creosote, and such products, while excellent disinfectants, cannot well be used on account of their odor, especially in factories. For gutters, drains, and waste pipes in factories, vitriol salts (sulfates of copper, iron and zinc) are sometimes used. These are deodorants as well as disinfectants, and are not so objectionable to use on account of their odor. These suggestions as to the use of chemicals, however, only apply to extreme cases and should not be brought into requisition until a thorough application of hot water, soap, a little soda, and the scrubbing brush have failed to do their CHAPTER V. RELATION OF DISEASE-BACTERIA TO MILK. PRACTICAL experience with epidemic disease has abun- dantly demonstrated the fact that milk not infrequently serves as a vehicle for the dissemination o** contagion. At- tention has been prominently called to this relation by Ernest Hart,1 who in 1880 compiled statistical evidence showing the numerous outbreaks of various contagious dis- eases that had been associated with milk infection up to that time. Since then, further compilations have been made by Freeman,9 and also by Busey and Kober,3 who have collected the data with reference to outbreaks from 1880 to 1899. These statistics indicate the relative importance of milk as a factor in the dissemination of disease. The danger from this source is much intensified for the reason that milk, generally speaking, is consumed in a raw state; and also because a considerable number of disease- producing bacteria are able, not merely to exist, but actu- ally thrive and grow in milk, even though the normal milk bacteria are also present. Moreover the recognition of the presence of such pathogenic forms is complicated by the fact that often they do not alter the appearance of ' Hart, Trans. Int. Med. Cong., London, 1881, 4:491-544. » Freeman, Med. Rec., March 28, 1896. * Busey and Kober, Kept. Health Off. of Dist. of CpL, Washington, D. C., 1895, p. 299. These authors present in this report an elaborate article on morbific and infectious milk, giving a very complete bibliography of 180 numbers. They ap- pend to Hart's list (which is published in full) additional outbreaks which have occurred since, together with full data as to extent of epidemic, circumstances governing the outbreak, as well as name of original reporter and reference. Relation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 83 the milk sufficiently so that their presence can be detected by a physical examination. These facts which have been experimentally determined, coupled with the numerous -clinical cases on record, make a strong case against milk serving as an agent in the dissemination of disease. Origin of pathogenic bacteria in milk. Disease-produc- ing bacteria may be grouped with reference to their relation toward milk into two classes, depending upon the manner in which infection occurs: Class I. Disease-producing bacteria capable of being transmitted directly from a diseased animal to man through the medium of infected milk. Class II. Bacteria pathogenic for man but not for cattle which are capable of thriving in milk after it is drawn from the animal. In the first group the disease produced by the specific organism must be common to both cattle and man. The organism must live a parasitic life in the animal, develop- ing in the udder, and so infect the milk supply. It may, of course, happen that diseases toward which domestic ani- mals alone are susceptible may be spread from one animal to another in this way without affecting human beings. In the second group, the bacterial species lives a sapro- phytic existence, growing in milk, if it happens to find its way therein. In such cases milk indirectly serves as an .agent in the dissemination of disease, by giving conditions favorable to the growth of the disease germ. By far the most important of diseases that may be trans- mitted directly from animal to man through a diseased milk supply is tuberculosis, but in addition to this, foot and mouth disease (aphthous fever in children), anthrax and acute enteric troubles have also been traced to a sim- ilar source of infection. 84 Dairy Bacteriology. The most important specific diseases that have been dis- seminated through subsequent pollution of the milk are typhoid fever, diphtheria, scarlet fever and cholera, but, of course, the possibility exists that any disease germ capable of living and thriving in milk may be spread in this way. .In addition to these diseases that are caused by the intro- duction of specific organisms (the causal organism of scar- let fever has not yet been definitely determined), there are a large number of more or less illy-defined troubles of an intestinal character that occur especially in infants and young children that are undoubtedly attributable to the activity of microorganisms that gain access to milk during and subsequent to the milking, and which produce changes in milk before or after its ingestion that result in the formation of toxic products. DISEASES TRANSMISSIBLE FROM ANIMAL TO MAN THROUGH DISEASED MILK. Tuberculosis. In view of the wide-spread distribution of this disease in both the human and the bovine race, the relation of the same to milk supplies is a question of great importance. It is now generally admitted that the differ- "ent types of tubercular disease found in different kinds of animals and man are attributable to the development of the same organism, Bacillus tuberculosis, although there are varieties of this organism found in different species of animals that are sufficiently distinct to permit of recogni- tion. The question of prime importance is, whether the bovine type is transmissible to the human or not. Artificial in- oculation of cattle with tuberculous human sputum as well as pure cultures of this variety show that the human type Relation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 85 is able to make but slight headway in cattle. This would indicate that the danger of cattle acquiring the infection from man would in all probability be very slight, but these experiments offer no answer as to the possibility of trans- mission from the bovine to the human. Manifestly it is impossible to solve this problem by direct experiment upon man except by artificial inoculation, but comparative ex- periments upon animals throw some light on the question. Theo. Smith ' and others2 have made parallel experiments with animals such 'as guinea pigs, rabbits and pigeons, in- oculated with both bovine and human cultures of this or- ganism. The results obtained in the case of all animals tested show that the virulence of the two types was much different, but that the bovine cultures were much more se- vere. While of course this does not prove that transmis- sion from bovine to human is possible, still the importance of the fact must not be overlooked. In a number of cases record of accidental infection from cattle to man has been noted.8 These have occurred with persons engaged in making post-mortem examinations on tuberculous animals, and the tubercular nature of the wound was proven in some cases by excision and inoculation. In addition to data of this sort that is practically experi- mental in character, there are also strong clinical reasons for considering that infection of human beings may occur through the medium of milk. Naturally such infection should produce intestinal tuberculosis, and it is noteworthy that this phase of the disease is quite common in children 1 Smith, Theo., Journ. of Expt. Med., 1898, 3: 451. 2 Dmwiddie, Bull. 57, Ark. Expt. Stat., June, 1899; Ravenel, Univ. of Penn. Med. Bull , Sept. 1901. 3 Ravenel, Journ. of Comp. Med. & Vet. Arch., Dec. 1897; Hartzell, Journ. Amer. Med. Ass'n, April 16, 1893. 86 Dairy Bacteriology. especially between the ages of two and five.1 It is difficult to determine, though, whether primary infection occurred through the intestine, for, usually, other organs also be- come involved. In a considerable number of cases in which tubercular infection by the most common channel, inhala- tion, seems to be excluded, the evidence is strong that the disease was contracted through the medium of the milk, but it is always very difficult to exclude the possibility of pul- monary infection. Tuberculosis as a bovine disease has increased rapidly during recent decades throughout many portions of the world. This has been most marked in dairy regions. Its extremely insidious nature does not permit of an early rec- ognition by physical means, and it was not until the intro- duction of the tuberculin test * in 1892, as a diagnostic aid that accurate knowledge of its distribution was possible. The quite general introduction of this test in many regions has revealed an alarmingly large percentage of animals as affected. In Denmark in 1894 over forty per cent were diagnosed as tubercular. In some parts of Germany almost as bad a condition has been revealed. Slaughter-house sta- tistics also show that the disease has increased rapidly since 1890. In this country the disease on the average is much less than in Europe and is also very irregularly distributed. In herds where it gained a foothold some years a£O, often the majority of animals are frequently infected; many ' Stille, Brit. Med. Journ., Aug. 19, 1899. 2 This test is made by injecting into the animal a small quantity of tuberculin, which is a sterilized glycerin extract of cultures of the tubercle bacillus. In a tuberculous animal, even in the very earliest phases of the disease, tuberculin causes a temporary fever that lasts for a few hours. By taking the temperature a number of times before and after injection it is possible to readily recognize any febrile condition. A positive diagnosis is made where the temperature after inoculation is at least 2.0° F. above the average normal, and where the reaction fever is continued for a period of some hours. Relation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 87 herds, in fact the great majority, are wholly free from all taint. The disease has undoubtedly been most frequently introduced through the purchase of apparently healthy but incipiently affected animals. Consequently in the older dairy regions where stock has been improved the most by breeding, more of the disease exists than among the western and southern cattle. Infectiousness of milk of reacting animals. Where the disease appears in the udder the milk almost invariably con- tains the tubercle organism. Under such conditions the appearance of the milk is not materially altered at first, FIG. 21. Side view of a tuberculous udder, showing extent of swelling in single quarter. but as the disease progresses the percentage of fat generally diminishes, and at times in the more advanced stages where the physical condition of the udder is changed (Fig. 21), 88 Dairy Bacteriology. the milk may become "watery"; but the percentage of animals showing such udder lesions is not large, usually not more than a few per cent. On the other hand, in the earlier phases of the disease, where its presence has been recognized solely by the aid of the tuberculin test, before there are any recognizable phys- ical symptoms in any part of the animal, the milk is gener- all}r unaffected. Between these extremes, however, is found a large proportion of cases, concerning which so definite data are not available. The results of investigators on this .point are conflicting and further information is much de- sired. Some have asserted so long as the udder itself shows no lesions that no tubercle bacilli would be present,1 but the findings of a considerable number of investigators* in- dicate that even when the udder is apparently not diseased the milk may contain the specific organism as revealed by inoculation experiments upon animals. In some cases, however, it has been demonstrated by post-mortem exam- ination that discoverable udder lesions existed that were not recognizable before autopsy was made. In the experi- mental evidence collected, a varying percentage of reacting animals were found that gave positive results; and this number wa? generally sufficient to indicate that the danger of using milk from reacting animals was considerable, even though apparently no disease could be found in the udder. The infectiousness of milk can also be proven by the frequent contraction of the disease in other animals, such as calves and pigs which may be fed on the skim milk. The very rapid increase of the disease among the swine of Ger- 1 Martin, Brit. Med. Journ. 1895, 1:937; Nocard, Les Tuberculoses animates, 1895. a Bang. Schmidt's Jahrb., 235:22; Hirschberger, Arch. f. klin. Medicin, 1889; Ernst, Infectiousness of Milk, 1895; Ravenel, Bull. 75, Penn. Dept. Agr, 1901. Relation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 89 many and Denmark,1 and the frequently reported cases of intestinal infection of young stock also attest the presence of the organism in milk. The tubercle bacillus is so markedly parasitic in its hab- its, that, under ordinary conditions, it is incapable of grow- ing at normal air temperatures. There is, therefore, no danger of the germ developing in milk after it is drawn from the animal, unless the same is kept at practically blood heat. Even though the milk of some reacting animals may not contain the dangerous organism at the time of making the test, it is quite impossible to foretell how long it will re- main free. As the disease becomes more generalized, or if tuberculous lesions should develop in the udder, the milk may pass from a healthy to an infectious state. This fact makes it advisable to exclude from milk sup- plies intended for human use, all milk of animals that re- spond to the tuberculin test; or at least to treat it in a manner so as to render it safe. Whether it is necessary to do this or not if the milk is made into butter or cheese is a somewhat different question. Exclusion or treatment is rendered more imperative in milk supplies, because the danger is greater* with children with whom milk is often a prominent constituent of their diet, and also for the reason that the child is more susceptible to intestinal infection than the adult. The danger of infection is much lessened in butter or cheese, because the processes of manufacture tend to dimin- ish the number of organisms originally present in the milk, and inasmuch as no growth can ordinarily take place in these products the danger is minimized. Moreover, the fact that i Ostertag, Milch Zeit., 22:672. 90 Dairy Bacteriology. these foods are consumed by the individual in smaller amounts than is generally the case where milk is used, and also to a greater extent by adults, lessens still further the danger of infection. Notwithstanding this, numerous observers ' especially in Germany have succeeded in finding the tubercle bacillus in market butter, but this fact is not so surprising when it is remembered that a very large fraction of their cattle show the presence of the disease as indicated by the tuberculin test, a condition that does not obtain in any large section in this country. These observations on the presence of the tubercle bacil- lus in butter have been questioned somewhat of late2 by the determination of the fact that butter may contain an organism that possesses the property of being stained in the same way as the tubercle organism. Differentiation between the two forms is rendered more difficult by the fact that this tubercle-like organism is also capable of pro- ducing in animals lesions that simulate those of tubercu- losis, although a careful examination reveals definite differ- ences. Petri1 has recently determined that both the true tubercle and the acid-resisting butter organism may be readily found in market butter. In the various milk products it has been experimentally determined that the true tubercle bacillus is able to retain its vitality in butter for a number of months and in cheese for nearly a year. Treatment of milk from tuberculous cows. While it has been shown that it is practically impossible to foretell whether the milk of any reacting animal actually contains » Obermiiller, Hyg. Rund , 1897, p. 712; Petri, Arb. a. d. Kais. Ges. Amte, 1898, 14: 1; Hermann und Morgenrotb, Hyg. Rund., 1898, p. 217. •Rabinowitsch. Zelt. f. Hyg., 1897, 26: 90. Delation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 91 tubercle bacilli or not, still the interests of public health demand that no milk from such stock be used for human food until it has toen rendered safe by some satisfactory treatment. 1. Heating. By far the best treatment that can be given such milk is to heat it. The temperature at which this should be done depends upon the thermal death point of the tubercle bacillus, a question concerning which there has been conisderable difference of opinion until very re- cently. According to the work of some of the earlier in- vestigators, the tubercle bacillus in its vegetative stage is endowed with powers of resistance greater than those pos- sessed by any other pathogenic organism. This work has not been substantiated loy the most recent investigations on this subject. In determining the thermal death point of this organism, as of any other, not only must the tern- perature be considered, but the period of exposure as well, and where that exposure is made in milk, another factor must be considered, viz., the presence of conditions per- mitting of the formation of a " scalded layer," for as Smith l first pointed out, the resistance of the tubercle organism toward heat is greatly increased under these conditions. If tuberculous milk is heated in a closed receptacle where this scalded membrane cannot be produced, the tubercle bacillus is killed at 140° F. in 15 to 20 minutes. These results which were first determined by Smith, under labora- tory conditions, and confirmed by Russell and Hastings,9 where tuberculous milk was heated in commercial pasteur- izers, have also been verified by Hesse.8 A great practical advantage which accrues from the treatment of milk at 1 Th. Smith. Journ. of Expt. Med., 1899, 4: 217. 2 Russell and Hastings, 18 Rept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1901. 8 Hesse, Zeit. f. Hyg., 1900, 34:346. 92 Dairy Bacteriology. 140° F. is that the natural creaming is practically unaf- fected. Of course, where a higher ternperatu re is employed, the period of exposure may be materially lessened. If milk is momentarily heated to 185° F., it is sufficient to destroy the vitality of the tubercle bacillus. This is the plan practiced in Denmark where all skim milk and whey must be heated to this temperature before it can be taken back to the farm, a plan which is designed to prevent the dissemination of tuberculosis and foot and mouth disease by means of the mixed creamery by-products. This course renders it possible to utilize with perfect safety, for milk supplies, the milk of herds reacting to the tuberculin test, and as butter of the best quality can be made from cream or milk heated to even high temperatures,1 it thus becomes possible to prevent with slight expense what would other- wise entail a large loss. 2. Dilution. Another method that has been suggested for the treatment of this suspected milk is dilution with a relatively large volume ot perfectly healthy milk. It is a well known fact that to produce infection, it requires the simultaneous introduction of a number of organisms, and in the case of tuberculosis, especially that produced by in- gestion, this number is thought to be considerable. Geb- hardt9 found that the milk of tuberculous cows, which was virulent when injected by itself into animals, was innocuous when diluted with 40 to 100 times its volume of healthy milk. This fact is hardly to be relied upon in practice, un- less the proportion of reacting to healthy cows is positively known. It has also been claimed in the centrifugal separation of 1 Practically all of the finest butter made in Denmark is made from cream that has been pasteurized at temperatures varying from 160°-185e F. » Gebhardt, Virch. Arch., 1890, 119: 12. Relation of Disease- Bacteria to Milk. 93 cream from milk * that by far the larger number of tubercle bacilli were, thrown out with the separator slime. Moore* has shown that the tubercle bacilli in an artificially in- fected milk might be reduced in this way, so as to be no longer microscopically demonstrable, yet the purification was not complete enough to prevent the infection of ani- mals inoculated with the milk. Another way to exclude all possibility of tubercular in- fection in milk supplies is to reject all milk from reacting animals. This method is often followed where pasteuriza- tion or sterilization is not desired. In dairies where the keeping quality is dependent upon the exclusion of bacteria by stringent conditions as to milking and handling ("sani- tary " or " hygienic " milk), the tuberculin test is frequently used as a basis to insure healthy milk. Foot and mouth disease. The widespread extension of this disease throughout Europe in recent years has given abundant opportunity to show that while it is distinctively an animal malady, it is also transmissible to man, although the disease is rarely fatal. The causal organism has not been determined with certainty, but it has been thoroughly proven that the milk of affected animals possesses infec- tious properties.8 Hertwig showed the direct transmissibiiity of the disease to man by experiments made on himself and others. By ingesting milk from an affected animal, he was able to produce the symptoms of the disease, the mucous mem- brane of the mouth being covered with the small vesicles that characterize the malady. It has also been shown that J Scheurlen, Arb. a. d. k. Ges. Amte, 1891, 7: 269; Bang, MUch Zeit., 1893, p. 672 2 Moore, Year Book of TJ. S. Dept. Agr., 1895, p. 432. 3Weigeland Noack, Jahres. d. Ges. Med., 1890, p. 642; Weissenberg, Allg. med. Cent. Zeit., 1890, p. 1; Baum, Arch. f. Thierheilkunde, 1892, 18:16. 94 Dairy Bacteriology. the virus of the disease may he conveyed in hutter.1 This disease is practically unknown in this country, although widely spread in Europe. There are a number of other hovine diseases such as anthrax,2 lockjaw,3 and hydrophobia4 in which it has been shown that the virus of the disease is at times to be found in the milk supply, but in most cases the secretion of milk becomes visibly affected, so that the danger of using such is greatly minimized. There are also a number of inflammatory udder troubles known as garget or mammitis which are produced by bac- terial action. In most of these, the physical appearance of the milk is so changed, and often pus is present to such a degree as to give a very disagreeable appearance to the milk. Pus-forming bacteria (staphylococci and strepto- cocci) are to be found associated with such troubles. DISEASES TRANSMISSIBLE TO MAN THROUGH INFECTION OF MILK AFTER WITHDRAWAL. Milk is so well adapted to the development of bacteria in general, that it is not surprising to find it a suitable medium for the growth of many pathogenic species. While this statement applies primarily to milk in a sterile condi- tion, yet in some cases, disease-producing bacteria are even able to grow in raw milk in competition with the normal milk bacteria, so that even a slight contamination may suffice to produce infection. The diseases that are most frequently disseminated in i Schneider, Munch, med. Wochenschr., 1893, No. 27; Frohner, Ziet. L Fleisch u. Milchhygiene, 1891, p. 66. "Feser, Deutsche Zeit. f. Thiermed., 1880, 6:166. •Nocard, Bull. Gen., 1885, p. 54. « Deutsche Viertelsjahr. f. offentL Gesundheitspflege, 1890, 20:444. Relation of Disease- Bacteria to Milk. 95 this way are typhoid fever, diphtheria, scarlet fever and cholera, together with the various illy-defined intestinal troubles of a toxic character that occur in children, es- pecially under the name of cholera infantum, summer complaint, etc. Diseases of this class are not derived directly from ani- mals because cattle are not susceptible to the same. Modes of infection. In a variety of ways, however, the milk may be subject to contaminating influences after it is drawn from the animal, and so give opportunity for the deyelopment of disease-producing bacteria. The more im- portant methods of infection are as follows: 1. Infection directly from a pre-existing case of disease on premises. Quite frequently a person in the early stage of a diseased condition may continue at his usual vocation as helper in the barn or dairy, and so give opportunity for direct infection to occur. In the so-called cases of " walk- ing typhoid," this danger is emphasized. Again during the period of convalescence, a similar opportunity exists for direct infection. This method functions more fre- quently in scarlet fever than in typhoid. In some cases infection has been traced to storage of the milk in rooms in the house where it became polluted directly by the •emanations of the patient.1 Among the dwellings of the lower classes where a single room has to be used in com- mon this source of infection has been most frequently ob- served. 2. Infection through the medium of another person. Not infrequently another individual may serve in the capacity of nurse or attendant to a sick person, and also assist in the handling of the milk, either in milking the animals or 1 E. Roth, Deutsche Vierteljahresschr. f. oflentl. Gesundheitspfl., 1890, 22:238. 96 Dairy Bacteriology. caring for the milk after it has been drawn. Busey and Kober report twenty-one outbreaks of typhoid fever in which dairy employees also acted in the capacity of nurses. 3. Pollution of milk utensils. The most frequent method of infection of cans, pails, etc., is in cleaning them with water that may be polluted with disease organisms. Often wells may be contaminated with diseased matter of intes- tinal origin, as in typhoid fever, and the use of water at normal temperatures, or even in a luke-warm condition, give conditions permitting of infection. Intentional adul- teration of milk with water inadvertently taken from pol- luted sources has caused quite a number of typhoid out- breaks.1 Sedgwick and Chapin * found in the Springfield, Mass., epidemic of typhoid that the milk cans were placed in a well to cool the milk, and it was subsequently shown that the well was polluted with typhoid fecal matte*. 4. Pollution of udder of animal by leading in infected water, or by washing same with contaminated water. This method of infection would only be likely to occur in case of typhoid. An outbreak at the University of Vir- ginia in 18933 was ascribed to the latter cause. 5. Pollution of creamery by-products, skim-milk, etc. Where the milk supply of one patron becomes infected with pathogenic bacteria, it is possible that disease may be disseminated through the medium of the creamery, the in- fective agent remaining in the skim milk after separation and so polluting the mixed supply. This condition is more likely to prevail with typhoid because of the greater toler- ance of this organism for acids such as would be found in raw 1 S. W. North, London Practitioner, 1889, 43:393. •Sedgwick and Chapin, Boston Med. & Surg. Journ., 1893, 129:485. » Dabney, Phila. Med. News, 1893, 68:630. Relation of Disease- Bacteria to Milk. 97 milk. The outbreaks at Brandon,1 England, in 1893, Cas- tle Island,2 Ireland, and Marlboro,3 Mass., in 1894, were traced to such an origin. While most outbreaks of disease associated with a pol- luted milk supply originate in the use of the milk itself, yet infected milk may serve to cause disease even when used in other ways. Several outbreaks of typhoid fever have been traced to the use of ice cream where there were strong reasons for believing that the milk used in the man- ufacture of the product was polluted.4 Hankin5 details a case of an Indian confection made largely from milk that caused a typhoid outbreak in a British regiment. Although the evidence that milk may not infrequently serve as an agent in spreading disease is conclusive enough to satisfactorily prove the proposition, yet it should be borne in mind that the organism of any specific disease in ques- tion has rarely ever been found. The reasons for this are quite the same as those that govern the situation in the case of polluted waters, except that the difficulties of the problem are much greater in the case of milk than with water. The inability to readily separate the typhoid germ, for instance, from thetiolon bacillus, an organism frequently found in milk, presents technical difficulties not easily over- come. The most potent reason of failure to find disease bacteria is the fact that infection in any case must occur sometime previous to the appearance of the outbreak. Not only is there the usual period of incubation, but it rarely happens that an outbreak is investigated until a number of 1 Welphy, London Lancet, 1804, 2:1085. 2 Brit. Med. Journ., 1894, 1:815. 3 Mass. Bd. Health Kept., 1894, p. 765. 4 Turner, London Practitioner, 1892, 49:141; Munro, Brit. Med. Journ., 1894, 2:829.. » Hankin, Brit. Med. Journ., 1894, 2:613. 7 98 Dairy Bacteriology. cases have occurred. In this interim the original cause of infection may have ceased to be operative. Typhoid fever. With reference to the diseases likely to to be disseminated through the medium of milk, infected after being drawn from the animal, typhoid fever is the most important. The reason for this is due (1) to the wide spread distribution of the disease; (2) to the fact that the typhoid bacillus is one that is capable of withstanding considerable amounts of acid, and consequently finds even in raw milk containing the normal lactic acid ba'cteria con- ditions favorable for its growth.1 Ability to grow under these conditions can be shown not only experimentally, but there is abundant clinical evidence that even a slight infec- tion often causes extensive outbreaks, as in the Stamford, Conn., outbreak in 1895 where 386 cases developed in a few weeks, 97 per cent of which occurred on the route of one milkman. In this case the- milk cans were thoroughly and properly cleaned, but were rinsed out with cold water from a shallow well that was found to be polluted. The most common mode of pollution of milk with typhoid organisms is where the milk utensils are infected in one way or another. Generally, this arises from the use of pol- luted water in cleansing the vessels or in intentional water- ing of the milk. Second in importance is the carrying of infection by persons serving in the dual capacity of nurse and dairy attendant. Cholera. This germ does not find milk so favorable a nutrient medium as the typhoid organism, because it is much more sensitive toward the action of acids. Kitasato* 1 Heim (Arb. a. d. Kais. Gesundheitsamte, 1889, 5:303) finds it capable of living from 20-30 days in milk. 'Kitasato, Arb. a. d. Kais. Gesundheitsamte, 1:470. Relation of Disease- Bacteria to Milk. 99 found, however, that it could live in raw milk from one to four days, depending upon the amount of acid present. In boiled or sterilized milk it grows more freely, as the acid- producing forms are thereby eliminated. In butter it dies out in a few days (4 to 5). On account of the above relation not a large number of cholera outbreaks have been traced to milk, but Simpson * records a very striking case in India where a number of sailors, upon reaching port, secured a quantity of milk. Of the crew which consumed this, every one was taken ill, and four out of ten died, while those who did not partake es- caped without any disease. It was later shown that the milk was adulterated with water taken from an open pool in a cholera infected district. Diphtheria. According to Klein 2 the diphtheria organ- ism is capable of developing in animals, attacking among other organs the udder, and so infecting the milk; but Abbott8 or Vladimirow4 failed to confirm these experi- ments. There is abundant evidence that the diphtheria organism is able to grow luxuriantly in milk, even more so in raw than in sterilized.5 Infection in this disease is more frequently attributable to direct infection from patient, or indirectly through attendant. Scarlet fever. Although it is more difficult to study the relation of this disease to contaminated milk supplies, be- cause the causal germ of scarlet fever is not yet known, yet the origin of a .consider able number of epidemics has 1 Simpson, London Practitioner, 1887, 39:144. » Klein, 19 Loc. Gov't. Bd. (Gt. Brit.) 1889, 167. •Abbott, Vet. Mag. 1: 17. * Vladimirow, Arch. Sci. biol. Inst. Med., St. Petersburg, 1892, p. 84. *Schottelius and Ellerhorst, Milch Zeit., 1897, pp. 40 and 73. 100 Dairy Bacteriology. been traced to polluted milk supplies. An outbreak oc- curred at East Orange,1 New Jersey, a few years ago in wbich from one to four cases developed in each of sixteen families. The cause of the outbreak was traced to the son of the milkman who, soon after convalescence from an at- tack of the disease, resumed his work as milker. Diarrhoeal diseases. Milk not infrequently acquires the property of producing diseases of the digestive tract by reason of the development of various bacteria that form more or less poisonous by-products. These troubles occur most frequently during the summer months, especially with infants and children, as in cholera infantum and summer complaint. The higher mortality of bottle-fed infants2 in comparison with those that are nursed directly is explicable alone on the theory that cows' milk is the carrier of the infection, because in many cases it is not consumed until there has been ample time for the development of organisms in it. As a cause of sickness and death these diseases ex- ceed in importance all other specific diseases previously referred to. The cause of these troubles is not to be ascribed to any specific kind of bacteria, but there are undoubtedly a large number of organisms which are able to develop toxic sub- stances in food products, especially in milk. In some cases it appears that the development of the poisonous products takes place in the intestines after the food is ingested. The origin of these bacteria is in all probability due to the in- troduction of dirt and filth that find their way into the milk at the time of milking. Fliigge3 has pointed out the i Boston Med. Journ., 1897, 136: 44. a Baginsky, Hyg. Rund., 1895, p. 176. •Flttgge, Zeit. f. Hyg., 17: 272. Relation of Disease-Bacteria to Milk. 101 fact that certain peptonizing species which are frequently found in milk possess a toxic property for lower animals. Ptomaine poisoning. Many cases of poisoning from food products are also reported with adults. These are due to the formation of various toxic products, generally pto- maines, that are produced as a result of infection of foods by different bacteria. One of these substances, tyrotoxicon, was isolated by Vaughan J from cheese and various other products of milk, and found to possess the propert}' of pro- ducing ^symptoms of poisoning similar to those that are noted in such cases. He attributes the production of this toxic effect to the decomposition of the elements in the milk induced by putrefactive forms of bacteria that develop where milk is improperly kept.2 Often outbreaks of this character3 assume the proportions of an epidemic, where a large number of persons use the tainted food. >Zeit. f. physiol. Chemie, 10:146; 9 Intern. Hyg. Cong. (London), 1891, p. 118. a Vaughan and Perkins, Arch. f. Hyg., 27:308. 3 Newton and Wallace (Phila. Med. News, 1887, 50:570) report three outbreaks at Long Branch, N. J., two of which occurred in summer hotels. CHAPTER VI. PRESERVATION OF MILK FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES. IN Chapter III it has been shown how milk becomes contaminated with various kinds of bacteria which find in this liquid most favorable conditions for development. The result of this contamination is that the period during which milk has a commercial value for food purposes, either in the form of milk, or milk products, such as butter and cheese, is greatly lessened, thereby causing losses of consid- erable economic importance. Moreover, it has been further shown (Chapter Y) that this food product which is so admirably adapted to serve as food may become infected with disease-producing organ- isms, and so be the means of disseminating contagion. From these two points of view, therefore, 1. the economic, as shown by the keeping quality of the milk, and 2. the hygienic, as shown by its possibility to spread dis- ease, it is highly important that means should be adopted, if possible, that will result in improving the keeping qual- ity so as to diminish these losses, and at the same time in- sure freedom from bacteria capable of developing disease. Inasmuch as the fermentative changes which ordinarily occur, and which lessen the commercial life of the milk as a food, depend entirely on the development of living or- ganisms that may find their way into the milk, an improve- ment in the condition of the milk may be secured (1) by excluding bacterial life so far as practicable, at the time Preservation of Milk. 103 the milk is drawn, and subsequently holding the milk at temperatures unfavorable to the multiplication of the rela- tively few organisms that do gain access; or (2) by remov- ing those organisms wholly or in part after they have once gained access to the milk. If all are not eliminated, it then becomes necessary to keep the milk under such con- ditions as to check the growth of those which are not re- moved. Preservation by exclusion. The first method is followed in many dairies that supply high-grade milk for city deliv- ery. The so-called " sanitary " or u hygienic " milk is usu- ally a milk that has been handled in such a way as to pre- vent the introduction of most bacteria that under ordinary conditions would find their way into the same. The merits of a milk of this character in comparison with one pre- served by means of other methods, as pasteurization, is a question concerning which there has been much discus- sion. When it is considered, as will be shown later, that, methods of preservation can be successfully applied thafc will not apparently change the chemical and physical prop- erties of milk, it is an open question that must be decided in each case whether exclusion of bacteria can be as eco- nomically and efficiently performed as the destruction of the living organisms by heat. Certain it is that the pro- cess of exclusion must be confined to dairies that are under individual control. The impossibility of exercising ade- quate control with reference to the milking process and the care of the milk immediately thereafter, when the same is produced on different farms, is evident. In enhancing the keeping quality of milk by removing the bacteria it is necessary to do so without in any way materially interfering with the nutritive qualities of the lOi Dairy Bacteriology. fluid. The different methods that have been proposed to accomplish this result depend upon the removal of the con- tained organisms by mechanical means, or their destruc- tion in the milk by means of either chemical or physical processes. In removing the bacteria two means have been more or less extensively employed, as filtration and cen- trifugal force. Filtration Of milk. Straining milk through cloth or wire strainers has always been used as a means of cleaning milk from dirt and foreign matter; but it is quite evident that the removal of such material can only diminish the germ content of the milk to the extent that bacteria would adhere to such coarse particles. The individual organisms floating in milk are capable of passing the finest strainer, and consequently, such processes are more accurately meth- ods of cleaning and purifying the milk rather than meth- ods that enhance the keeping quality. Along somewhat similar lines are the various methods of filtration that have been devised. The use of germ- proof filters, such as the Pasteur or Berkefeld type, are inadmissible with milk, because the pores of these filters are so fine as to hold back practically all suspended matter, fat and casein as well as the bacteria. For a number of years, gravel, sand or quartz filters have been employed for the double purpose of cleaning milk and preserving^ it. Several different types of these filters are or have been in use. The most satisfactory are built in several sections so as to permit of read}r cleansing, a process which must be most thoroughly carried out with apparatus of this kind. Bolle of Berlin washes his filters first with boiling water, then dilute hydrochloric acid, and finally, with water until all trace of acid is removed. The Preservation of Milk. 105 Copenhagen Dairy Co. sterilize their gravel filters by high heat. In other cases lime water is used in cleansing. Fil- ters of this type remove practically all dirt and a consider- able proportion of the contained bacteria, but they are in- tended more to clean the milk than enhance its keeping quality. Woodfiber (cellulose) has also been tested as a filtering substance with success. Centrifugal cleaning: of milk. The familiar coating of slime and dirt that collects on the inner face of the sepa- rator bowl shows that centrifugal force can be successfully used in cleaning or clarifying milk. While the ordinary types of cream separators are able to remove this material in a satisfactory way, special machines have been devised for this particular purpose. A bacteriological examination of separator slime shows it to be teeming with myriads of organisms, and the rapid decomposition which it undergoes is evidence of its high germ content, but there is practi- cally little or no improvement in the keeping quality of milk that has been treated in this way. This is in part due to the fact that bacteria reproduce so rapidly that a marked variation in numbers is soon obscured by relatively more rapid growth. Eckles and Barnes1 find that from 37 to 56 per cent of the total number of bacteria present in milk are thrown out lay passing milk through separators. Where milk is cleaned in this way, the cream and skim milk is generally mixed again immediately, but the pas- sage of cream through the separator bowl tends to break down- the size of the normal fat-globule clusters and so lessen the consistency of the product. Such a diminution in " body " diminishes materially the ease with which cream can be whipped. i Eckles and Barnes, Bull. No. 59 Iowa Expt, Stat., Aug. 1901. 106 Dairy Bacteriology. Chemical preservatives. Numerous attempts have been made to find some chemical substance that could be added to milk which would preserve it without interfering with its nutritive properties, but as a general rule a substance that is toxic enough to destro}" or inhibit the growth of bacterial life exerts a prejudicial effect on the tissues of the body. The use of chemicals, such as carbolic acid, mercury salts and mineral acids, that are able to entirely destroy all life, is of course excluded, except when milk is preserved for analytical purposes; but a number of milder substances are more or less extensively employed, although the statutes of practically all states forbid their use. The substances so used may be grouped in two classes: 1. Those that unite chemically with certain b3'-products of bacterial growth to form inert substances. Thus bi- carbonate of soda neutralizes the acid in souring milkr although it does not destroy the lactic acid bacteria. 2. Those that act directly upon the bacteria in milk, re- straining or inhibiting their development. The substances- most frequently utilized are salicylic acid, formaldehyde and boracic acid. These are nearly always sold to the milk handler, under some proprietary name, at prices greatly in excess of what the crude chemicals could be bought for in the open market. Formaldehyde bas been widely advertised of late, but its use is fraught with the greatest danger, for it practically renders insoluble all al- buminous matter and its toxic effect is greatly increased in larger doses. These substances are generally used by milk handlers who know nothing of their poisonous action, and although it ma}7 be possible for adults to withstand their use in dilute form, without serious results, yet their addition to Preservation of Milk. 107 general milk supplies that may be used by children is lit- tle short of criminal. The sale of these preparations for use in milk finds its only outlet with those dairymen who are anxious to escape the exactions that must be met by all who attempt to handle milk in the best possible man- ner. Farrington has suggested a simple means for the detection of preservalin (boracic acid).1 When this sub- stance is added to fresh milk, it increases the acidity of milk without affecting its taste. As normal milk tastes sour when it contains about 0.3 per cent lactic acid, a milk that tests as much or more than this without tasting sour has been probably treated with this antiseptic agent. Physical methods of preservation. Methods based upon the application of physical forces are less likely to injure the nutritive value of milk, and are consequently more effective, if of any value whatever. A number of methods have* been tried more or less thoroughly in an experimental way that have not yet been reduced to a practical basis, as electricity, use of a vacuum, and increased pressure.2 Con- densation has long been used with great success, but in this process the nature of the milk is materially changed. The keeping quality in condensed milk often depends upon the action of another principle, viz., the inhibition of bacterial growth by reason of the concentration of the medium. This condition is reached either by adding sugar and so in- creasing the soluble solids, or by driving off the water by evaporation, preferably in a vacuum pan. Temperature changes are, however, of the most value in preserving milk, for by a variation in temperature all bacterial growth can be brought to a standstill, and under proper conditions thoroughly destroyed. 1 Farrington, Journ. Amer. Chem. Soc., Sept., 1896. »Hite, Bull. 58, West Va. Expt. Stat, 1899. 108 Dairy Bacteriology. Use of low temperatures. The effect of chilling or rapid cooling on the keeping quality of milk is well known. When the temperature of milk is lowered to the neighbor- hood of 45° F., the development of bacterial life is so slow as to materially increase the period that milk remains sweet. Within recent years, attempts have been made to preserve milk so that it c'ould be shipped long distances by freezing the product, which in the form of milk-ice could be held for an indefinite period without change.1 A modi- fication of this process known as Casse's system has been tried on an extensive scale in Copenhagen and in several places in Germany. This consists of adding a small block of milk-ice (frozen milk) to large cans of milk (one part to about fifty of milk) which may or may not be pasteur- ized.2 This reduces the temperature so that the milk remains sweet considerably longer. Such a process permits of the shipment of milk for long distances with safety. It is reported that London receives milk from Denmark and Sweden that is treated in this waj7. Use of high tempera- tiif ae TJ™4- 1 1 FIG. 22. Microscopic appearance of nor- tures. Heat has long ^ m|lk showingpthe fat.globules aggre. been used as a preserv- gated in clusters. ing agent. Milk has been scalded or cooked to keep it from time immemorial. Heat may be used at differ- i Milch Zeit,, 1895, No. 9. a Ibid., 1897, No. 83. Preservation of Milk. 109 ent temperatures, and when so applied exerts a varying effect, depending upon temperature employed. All meth- ods of preservation by heat rest, however, upon the applica- tion of the heat under the following conditions: 1. A temperature above the maximum growing-point (105°-115° F.) and below the thermal death-point (130°- 140° F.) will prevent further growth, and consequently fermentative action. 2. A temperature above the thermal death-point destroys bacteria, and thereby stops all changes. This temperature varies, however, with the condition of the bacteria, and for spores is much higher than for vegetative forms. Attempts have been made to employ the first principle in shipping milk by rail, viz., prolonged heating above growing temperature, but when milk is so heated, its physical ap- pearance is changed.1 The methods of heating most satisfactorily used are known as steriliza- tion and pasteurization, in which a degree of temperature is used ap- proximating the boiling and scalding points re- spectively. Effect of heat on milk. When milk is subjected to the action of heat, a number of changes in its physical and chemical properties are to be noted. FIG. 23. Microscopic appearance of milk heated above 140° F., showing the homo- geneous distribution of fat-globules. The physical change noted in comparison with Fig. 22 causes the diminished consistency of pasteurized cream. i Bernstein, Milch Zeit., 1894, pp. 184, 200. 110 Dairy Bacteriology. 1. Diminished "body" When milk, but more especially cream, is heated to 140° F. or above, it becomes thinner in consistency or "body,1' a condition which is. due to a change in the grouping of the fat globules. In normal milk, the butter fat for the most part is massed in micro- scopic clots as shown in Fig. 22. When exposed to a tem- perature of 1400 F. or above, these fat-globule clots break down, and the globules become homogeneously distributed as in Fig. 23. Under these conditions milk does not cream readily. When cream itself is so heated, its consistency is materially reduced, giving the impression that it contains a less per cent of butter fat. These changes seriously af- fect the general adoption of heat as a means of preserving milk for ordinary market use, but fortunately this defect can be overcome. 2. Cooked taste. If milk is heated to 160° F., it acquires a cooked taste that becomes more pronounced as the tem- perature is further raised. Milk so heated develops on its surface a pellicle or " skin.1' The cause of this change in taste is not well known. Usually it has been explained as being produced by changes in the nitrogenous elements in the milk, particularly in the albumen. Recently, Thoer- ner ! has pointed out the coincidence that exists between the appearance of a cooked taste and the loss of certain gases that are expelled by heating. He finds that the milk heated in closed vessels from which the gas cannot escape has a much less pronounced cooked flavor than if heated in an open vessel. The so-called " skin " on the surface of heated milk is not formed when the milk is heated in a tightly-closed receptacle. By some 8 it is as- serted that this layer is composed of albumen, but there is .. » Thoerner, Chem. Zeit., 18: &45. 8 Snyder, Chemistry of Dairying, p. 59. Preservation of Milk. Ill evidence to show that it is modified casein due to the rapid evaporation of the milk serum at the surface of the milk. 3. Digestibility. Considerable difference of opinion has existed in the minds of medical men as to the relative digestibility of raw and heated milks. A considerable amount of experimental work has been done by making artificial digestion experiments with enzyms, also diges- tion experiments with animals, and in a few cases with children. The results obtained by different investigators are quite contradictory, although the preponderance of evi- dence seems to be in favor of the view that heating does impair the digestibility of milk, especially if the tempera- ture attains the sterilizing point.1 It has been observed that there is a noteworthy increase in amount of rickets,9 scurvy and marasmus in children where highly-heated milks are employed. These objections do not obtain with refer- ence to milk heated to moderate temperatures, as in pas- teurization, although even this lower temperature lessens slightly its digestibility. The successful use of pasteurized milks in children's hospitals is evidence of its usefulness. 4- Fermentative changes. The normal souring change in milk is due to the predominance of the lactic acid bacteria, but as these organisms as a class do not possess spores, they are readily killed when heated above the thermal death- point of the developing cell. The destruction of the lactic forms leaves the spore-bearing types possessors of the field, and consequently the fermentative changes in heated milk 1 Doane and Price (Bull. 77, M«d. Expt. Stat., Aug. 1901) give quite a full resumS of the work on this subject in connection with rather extensive experiments made by them on feeding animals with raw, pasteurized and sterilized milks. a Kickets is a disease in which the bones lack sufficient mineral matter to give them proper firmness. Marasmus is a condition in which the ingested food seems to fail to nourish the body and gradual wasting away occurs. 112 Dairy Bacteriology. are not those that usually occur, but are characterized by the curdling of the milk from the action of rennet enzyms. 5. Action of rennet. Heating milk causes the soluble lime salts to be precipitated, and as the curdling of milk by ren- net (in cheese-making) is dependent upon the presence of these salts, their absence in heated milks greatly retards the action of rennet. This renders it difficult to utilize heated milks in cheese-making unless the soluble lime salts are restored, which can be done by adding solutions of cal- cium chlorid. Sterilization. As ordinarily used in dairying, steriliza- tion means the application of heat at temperatures approxi- mating, if not exceeding, 212° F. It does not necessarily imply that milk so treated is sterile, i. e., germ-free; for, on account of the resistance of spores, it is practically im- possible to destroy entirely all these hardy forms. If milk is heated at temperatures above the boiling point, as is done where steam pressure is utilized, it can be ren- dered practically germ-free. Such methods are employed where it is designed to keep milk sweet for a long period of time. The treatment of milk by sterilization has not met with any general favor in this country, although it has been more widely introduced abroad. In most cases the process is carried out after the milk is bottled; and consid- erable ingenuity has been exercised in the construction of devices which will permit of the closure of the bottles after the sterilizing process has been completed. Milks heated to so high a temperature have a more or less pronounced boiled or cooked taste, a condition that does not meet with general favor in this country. The apparatus suitable for this purpose must, of necessity, be so constructed as to with- stand steam pressure, and consequently is considerably Preservation of Milk. 113 .more expensive than that required for the simpler pasteur- izing process. Pasteurization. In this method the degree of heat used ranges from 140° to 185° F. and the application is made for only a limited length of time. The process was first exten- sively used by Pasteur (from whom it derives its name) in combating various maladies of beer and wine. Its import- ance as a means of increasing the keeping quality of milk was not generally recognized until a few years ago; but the method is now growing rapidly in favor as a means of pre- serving milk for commercial purposes. The method does not destroy all germ-life in milk; it affects only those or- ganisms that are in a growing, vegetative condition; but if the same is quickly cooled, it enhances the keeping quality very materially. It is unfortunate that this same term is used in connection with the heating of cream as a prepara- tory step to the use of pure cultures in cream-ripening in butter-making. The objects to be accomplished vary mate- rially and the details of the two processes are dso quite dif- erent. The experiments of Bitter 1 indicate that when stored at 86° F., properly pasteurized milk will remain sweet from six to eight hours longer than raw milk; at 77° F., ten hours; at 73° F., twenty hours; and at 58° F., from fifty to seventy hours. This enhances the keeping quality enough so that it serves all practical purposes. While pasteurizing can be performed on a small scale by the individual, the process can also be adapted to the com- mercial treatment of large quantities of milk. The appa- ratus necessary for this purpose is not nearly so expensive as that used in sterilizing, a factor of importance when other advantages are considered. In this country pasteur- ' Bitter, Zeit. f. Hyg., 1890, 17:272. 8 114: Dairy Bacteriology. ization has made considerable headway, not only in sup- plying a milk that is designed to serve as children's food, but even for general purposes. Conditions that determine pasteurizing limits. Consid- erable latitude with reference to temperature limits is per- missible in pasteurizing, but there are certain conditions which should be met, and these, in a sense, fix the limits employed. They are as follows: 1. Physical requirement. Inasmuch as it is undesirable to have any material change in taste and appearance in pasteurized milk from that normally found in the raw pro- duct, the pasteurizing temperature should be limited to the degree of heat that can safely be employed without any danger of imparting a cooked or scalded flavor to milk. If the exposure is made for any considerable period of time, say fifteen to twenty minutes, this change in taste appears to be quite permanent when the milk is heated to 158° F. This condition, therefore, determines the maximum limit that should be used in pasteurizing, if one is to avoid the production of a cooked flavor. Even below this tem- perature a slight change in flavor occurs, although it dis- appears upon chilling the milk- Where access of air is excluded during heating, this cooked taste does not develop so markedly. 2. Biological requirement. To be of value in increasing the keeping quality of milk and to insure freedom from disease bacteria, it is necessary, in all cases, to exceed the thermal death-point of at least the actively developing bac- teria in the milk. For most bacteria this limit is constant and quite sharply defined, ranging from 130° to 140° F. where the exposure is made for ten minutes. Where ex- posed for a briefer period of time, the temperature limit is Preservation of Milk. 115 necessarily higher. The organism that is invested with most interest in this connection is the tubercle bacillus. On ac- count of its more or less frequent occurrence in milk (see p. 87) and its reputed high powers of resistance, it may well be taken as a standard in pasteurizing. Thermal death limits of tubercle bacillus. Concerning the exact temperature at which this germ is destroyed there is considerable difference of opinion. Part of this arises from the inherent difficulty in determining exactly when the organism is killed (due to its failure to grow readily on artificial media), and part from the lack of uniform condi- tions of exposure. The standards that previously have been most generally accepted are those of De Man,1 who found that thirty minutes exposure at 149° F., fifteen min- utes at 155° F., or ten minutes at 167° F., sufficed to de- stroy this germ. More recently it has been conclusively proven,2 and these results confirmed by different investigators,3 that if tuber- culous milk is heated in closed receptacles where the scalded surface pellicle does not form, the vitality of this disease germ is destroyed at 140° F. in a brief period (15 to 20 minutes). If the conditions of heating are such that the surface of the milk is exposed to the air, the resistance of bacteria is greatly increased. When heated in open vessels Smith found that the tubercle organism was not killed in some cases where the exposure was made for at least an hour. Russell and Hastings 4 have shown an instance where the thermal death-point of a micrococcus isolated from pasteurized milk was increased 12.5° F., by heating it under »De Man, Arch. f. Hyg., 1893, 18:133. aTh. Smith, Journ. of Expt. Med., 1899, 4: 217. •Russell and Hastings, 17 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1900, p. 147. 4 Russell and Hastings, 18 Kept. Ibid., 1901. 116 Dairy Bacteriology. conditions that permitted of the formation of the scalded layer. This is a point of great practical importance in the treatment of milk and necessitates the use of machinery that will prevent the formation of this surface film. It follows, therefore, from these results that a temperature of 140° F. can be used if advisable, although higher temper- atures are not inadmissible. Sanitary advantages of pasteurized milk. Not only does pasteurized milk keep longer and is also free from specific disease bacteria, but its use has been of utmost importance in checking infant mortality from diarrhoeal disturbances. This is shown in the diminished death rate in children's hospitals, and is again exemplified on a large scale in the results that have been obtained in New York City through the liberality of Nathan Strauss, who, for several years, has furnished the poor children of that city with pasteurized milk. Since the introduction of this milk, the death rate of those under five years of age has dropped over ten per thousand living persons, a condition which is explicable in large measure to the use of a relatively germ-free milk. Pasteurized milk should be consumed within twenty-four hours if it is used by children. If left under conditions favorable to germination, bacterial growth will go on, and it has been shown that the type of fermentation produced may sometimes be deleterious.1 High vs. low temperature pasteurization. The limit which has been most generally employed has been the maximum at which a cooked flavor did not appear, and in practice this has been 155° F. for a period of exposure of twenty minutes. Under these conditions, pasteurization is efficiently and thoroughly performed, but the applica- tion of this degree of heat to milk results in a diminution » Fltlgge, Zeit. f. Hyg., 1894, 17: 272. Preservation of Milk. 117 of creaming property, and especially in cream of a marked decrease in thickness. Both of these conditions seriously interfere with the general extension of pasteurization, be- cause the consumer does not like a milk on which the cream does not rise thoroughly. The reasons which under- lie this physical change have already been noted (p. 109), and it should be further observed that if milk is not pasteurized at a temperature exceeding 140° F., this change in condition does not obtain. Milk heated to this temperature satisfactorily fills the biological requirement, in that the vegetating forms of the acid-producing as well as the disease bacteria are destroyed. The consequence is that the keeping quality of such milk is practically as good as if it was heated to a temperature of 155° F. The appli- cation of this temperature results in the preparation of a milk or cream that more closely approximates the condi- tion of the normal product, while at the same time such milk possesses practically all of the advantages that are found in that heated to a higher temperature. Bacteriological studies. The following bacteriological studies as to the effect which a variation in temperature exerts on bacterial life in milk are of importance as indi- cating the proper temperature limits to be selected. In the following table the exposures were made for a uniform period (20 minutes): The bacterial content of milk heated at different temperatures. Number of bacteria per cc. in milk. 45°C. 50°C. 55°C. 60°C. 65°C. 70°C. Unheated 113°F. 122°F. 131°F. 140°F. 149°F. 158°F. Series I. 2,895,000 1,260,000 798,000 82,000 5,770 3,900 Series II. 750,000 665,000 262,400 201,000 950 700 705 Series III. 1,350,000 1,100,000 260.000 215,000 575 610 650 Series IV. 1,750,000 • 87,3ftO 4,000 3,500 3,600 118 Dairy Bacteriology. It appears from these results that the most marked de- crease in temperature occurs at 140° F. (60° C.). At 113° F. (45° C.) no marked diminution was noted; at 122° F. (50° C.) many cells were killed, but the larger part of them were not killed until a temperature of 140° F. (60° C.) was reached. It should also be observed that an increase in heat above this temperature did not materially diminish the number of organisms present, indicating that those forms remaining were in a spore or resistant condition. It was noted, however, that the developing colonies grew more slowly in the plates made from the highly heated milk, showing that their vitality was injured to a greater ex- tent. Applicability to general use. This method of low tem- perature pasteurization has now been tried under practical conditions for a sufficient period to determine its utility as a means of preserving general market milk. The fact that it does not modify in any essential particular the normal characters of milk is a point much in its favor. Enhance- ment in keeping quality and freedom from disease organ- isms are factors of such value that they readily commend such milk to the general consumer. With the improve- ments that have been made in pasteurizing machinery, it is now possible to handle considerable quantities and so reduce very much the cost of treatment per gallon. This method is especially applicable to the treatment of cream. The extreme perishable nature of this milk product makes it imperative that it should be handled in such a way as to check as far as possible germ growth, and this can be readily accomplished when the same is pasteurized and kept at low temperatures. The higher intrinsic value of this product lessens the relative cost of operation per unit of volume. Preservation of Milk. 119 Within the last few years this system has been quite widely introduced into a number of cities, and the results obtained are, on the whole, successful. As a system for general use it does not meet with nearly as much opposition as is offered to the use of the higher limits. One marked advantage accruing to this system is its general applicability. Milk can be pasteurized where it is produced under a single management as in the individual dairy, or the product of several patrons can be treated to- gether, as in a factory. The fresher and better the milk is, though, the more suitable it is for pasteurizing. Therefore, while it is possible to somewhat improve milk that has been collected for some hours (12 to 24) if it is properly pasteurized, still better results will be obtained if the treat- ment is given nearer the animal. Under practical condi- tions, however, pasteurizing near the place of consumption has some advantages and is preferable, if it is possible to transport the raw material quickly from the place of pro- duction. For the preparation of high-grade milk supplies it may be said that either the elimination of the bacteria by pas- teurization, or preventing their gaining access to the milk, as in sanitary dairies, is the most feasible and successful way to deal with this question. Restoration of "body" of pasteurized cream. The ac- tion of heat causes the tiny groupings of -fat globules in normal milk (Fig. 22) to break up, and with this change, which occurs in the neighborhood of 140° F., the consist- ency of the liquid is diminished, notwithstanding the fact that the fat-content remains unchanged. Babcock and the writer * devised the following " cure " for this apparent 1 Babcock and Russell, Bull. 54, Wis. Expt. Stat., also 13 Eept. Wis. Expt. Stat. 1896, p. 81. 120 Da iry Ba cier ioloyy. defect. If a strong solution of cane sugar is added to freshly slacked lime and the mixture allowed to stand, a clear fluid can be decanted off. The addition of this alka- line liquid, which is called u viscogeu," to pasteurized cream in proportions of about one part of sugar-lime solution to 100 to 150 of cream, restores the consistencyof the cream, as it causes the fat globules to cluster together in small groups. The relative viscosity of creams can easily be determined by the following method (Fig. 24): A B FIG. 24. Relative consistency of pasteurized cream before (A) and after (B) treatment with viscogen as shown by rate of flow down inclined glass plate. Take a perfectly clean piece of glass (plate or picture glass is preferable, as it is less liable to be wavy). Drop on Preservation of Milk. 121 one edge two or three drops, of cream at intervals of an inch or so. Then incline piece of glass at such an angle as to cause the cream to flow down surface of glass. The cream, having the heavier body or viscosity, will move more slowly. If several samples of each cream are taken, then the aggregate lengths of the different cream paths may be taken, thereby eliminating slight differences due to condi- tion of glass. Pasteurizing details. While the pasteurizing process is exceedingly simple, yet, in order to secure the best results, certain conditions must be rigidly observed in the treat- ment before and after the heating process. It is important to select the best possible milk for pas- teurizing, for if the milk has not been milked under clean conditions, it is likely to be rich in the spore-bearing bac- teria. Old milk, or milk that has not been kept at a low temperature, is much richer in germ-life than perfectl}r fresh or thoroughly chilled milk. The true standard for selecting milk for pasteurization should be to determine the actual number of bacterial spores that are able to resist the heating process, but this method is impracticable under commercial conditions. The following method, while only approximate in its re- sults, will be found helpful: Assuming that the age or treatment of the milk bears a certain relation to the pres- ence of spores, and that the acid increases in a general way with an increase in age or temperature, the amount of acid present may be taken as an approximate index of the suit- ability of the milk for pasteurizing purposes. Biological tests were carried out in the author's laboratory * on milks having a high and low acid content, and it was shown that i Siiockley, Thesis, Univ. of Wis., 1896. 122 Dairy Bacteriology. THERMAL DEATH POINT MAXIMUM GROWTH POINT BLOOJ) HEAT- MINIMUM 'GROWTH POINT FIG. 25. Diagram showing tem- perature changes in pasteurizing, and the relation of same to bac- terial growth. Shaded zone represents limits of bacterial growth, 50°-109° F. (10°-43° C.), the intensity of shad- ing indicating rapidity of develop- ment. The solid black line shows temperature of milk during the process. The necessity for rapid cooling is evider.t as the milk fal's in temperature to that of growing zone. Preservation of Milk. 123 the milk with the least acid was, as a rule, the freest from spore-bearing bacteria. This acid determination can be made at the weigh-can by employing the Farrington alkaline tablet which is used in cream-ripening. Where milk is pasteurized under gen- eral creamery conditions, none should be used containing more than 0.2 per cent acidity. If only perfectly fresh milk is used, the amount of acid will generally be about 0.15 per cent with phenolphthalein as indicator. Emphasis has already been laid on the selection of a proper limit of pasteurizing (p. 114). It should be kept constantly in mind that the thermal death-point of any organism depends not alone on the temperature used, but on the period of exposure. With the limits given, 140° to 155° F., it is necessary to expose the milk for not less than fif- teen minutes. If a higher heat is employed (and the cooked flavor disregarded) the period of exposure may be curtailed. Chilling the milk. It is very essential in pasteurizing that the heated milk be immediately chilled in order to prevent the germination of the resistant spores, for if ger- mination once occurs, growth can go on at relatively low temperatures. The following experiments by Marshall ' are of interest as showing the influence of refrigeration on germination of spores : Cultures of organisms that had been isolated from pas- teurized milk were inoculated into bouillon. One set was left to grow at room temperature, another was pasteurized %and allowed to stand at same temperature, while another heated set was kept in a refrigerator. The unheated cul- » Marshall, Mich. Expt. Stat., Bull. 147, p. 47. 124 Dairy Bacteriology. tares at room temperature showed evidence of growth in thirty trials in an average of 26 hours; 29 heated cultures at room temperature all developed in an average of 50 hours, while the heated cultures kept in refrigerator showed no growth in 45 days with but four exceptions. After the milk is pasteurized, it must of necessity be stored and handled in germ-free receptacles. All utensils, such as cans, dippers, bottles, etc., must be thoroughly sterilized. For this purpose a sterilizing oven should be had which is fitted with steam. Material of this sort, after being thoroughly cleansed, should be steamed for one-half to three-quarters of an hour. Sterilized bottles should be kept protected from dust until they are used. Bottling and handling: the product. In bottling the product it is necessary to keep the milk protected from re- infection. It may be bottled from a large can with a bottom faucet, or, on a large scale, with commercial bottling ma- chines that fill several bottles at once. If " viscogen " is added to restore consistency of cream, it should be done before bottling, but not before the cream is thoroughly cooled. The best bottles for the purpose are those that have a plain pulp cap. All metal fastenings or stoppers are dirt-catchers and are likely to get out of order. It is our practice to heat pulp caps in paraffin, thereby render- ing them more pliable and at the same time sterilizing them. Bottles sealed with hot caps in this way are tightly closed. In delivering pasteurized products, it is always neces- sary to use care in handling to prevent the cream and milk from being warmed up, and thus inciting into activity the latent spores. Preservation of Milk. 125 Pasteurizing: apparatus. The problems to be solved in the pasteurization of milk and cream designed for direct consumption are so materially different from those where butter is to be made that the type of machinery best adapted to each purpose is quite different. The equipment neces- sary for the first purpose may be divided into two general classes: 1. Apparatus of limited capacity designed for family use. 2. Apparatus of sufficient capacity to pasteurize on a commercial scale. Domestic pasteurizers. In pasteurizing milk for indi- vidual use, it is not desirable to treat at one time more than will be consumed in one day; hence an apparatus holding a few bottles will suffice. In this case the treatment can best be performed in the bottle itself, thereby lessening the danger of infection. Several different types of pasteurizers are on the market; but special apparatus is by no means necessary for the purpose. The process can be efficiently performed by any one with the addition of an ordinary dairy thermometer to the common utensils found in the kitchen. Fig. 26 indicates a simple contrivance that can be readily arranged for this purpose. The following suggestions indicate the different steps of the process: 1. Use only fresh milk. 2. Place milk in clean bottles or fruit cans, filling to a uniform level, closing bottles tightly with a cork or cover. If pint and quart cans are used at the same time, an inverted bowl will equalize the level. Set these in a flat-bottomed tin pail and fill with warm water to same level as milk. An inverted pie tin punched with holes will serve as a stand on which to place the bottles during the heating process. 126 Dairy Bacteriology. 3. Heafc water in pail until the temperature of same reaches 155° to 160° F. ; then remove from source of direct heat, cover with a cloth or tin cover, and allow the whole FIG. 26. A home-made pasteurizer. to stand for half an hour. In the preparation of milk for children, it is not advisable to use the low-temperature treatment (140° F.) that is recommended for commercial city delivery. 4. Remove bottles of milk and cool them as rapidly as possible without danger to bottles and store in a refriger- ator. Commercial pasteurizers. As noted before, the object in commercial pasteurization depends upon whether it is desired to treat milk for general milk supply or to make into butter. The ends to be attained are so widely different that it naturally follows that the apparatus best suited for the respective purposes must vary considerably. In pas- teurizing milk in butter-making, capacity is one of the Preservation of Milk. 127 most important desiderata, but in preparing milk for human use, fulfillment of sanitary conditions is the first requisite. It is to be regretted that milk dealers so frequently lose sight of this requirement in their attempts to secure appa- ratus that will handle large amounts so as to reduce the cost of operation. Pasteurizing involves considerable time and trouble, and it is better not to have the milk treated at all than to have the process imperfectl}T performed. The various types of machinery that have been suggested for this use may be grouped as follows, depending upon their method of operation:1 1. Continuous- flow machines. 2. Intermittent machines. The continuous-flow pasteurizers were originally designed for the treatment of milk and cream for butter-making, but in many cases they have been applied to the preservation of milk for direct consumption. The difficulty with them is not that the milk cannot be readily heated in the same, but as customarily arranged there is no provision for the retention of the milk at a temperature that would be fatal to the organisms in the same. Continuous-flow pasteurizers. Apparatus of this class vary much in detail, but all possess this common principle, that the milk enters the machine in a continuous stream and is generally discharged in the same way. The objec- tion to this type of apparatus is that the time of heating cannot be regulated with any certainty, although the tem- perature can be controlled in part by varying the speed of flow. Recent tests made at the Wisconsin Dairy School 1 For a more detailed description of pasteurizing machinery, reference should be made to Monrad's Pasteurization of Milk, or Weigmann's Conservierung der Milch. 128 Dairy Bacteriology. on a machine of this type showed that it took only one and one-half minutes for milk to pass through the ap- paratus, although it was claimed that it was in the machine for a period of ten minutes. Another objection is that in the rapid heating, where steam is employed, the proteids of the milk scald on to the walls of the pasteurizer. In some of these machines (Thiel, Kuehne, Lawrence, De Laval, and Hochmuth), a ribbed surface is employed over which the milk flows, while the opposite surface is heated with hot water or steam. Monrad, Lefeldt and Lentsch employ a centrifugal apparatus in which a thin layer of milk is heated in a revolving drum. In the Hill and Miller pasteurizers (both American ma- chines), the milk is forced in a thin sheet between heated surfaces and overflows at the top. One of the most economical types of apparatus is the regenerator type (a German machine), in which the milk passes over the heating surface in a thin stream and then is carried back over the incoming cold milk so that the heated liquid is partially cooled by the inflowing fresh milk. A number of machines have been constructed on the principle of a reservoir which is fed by a constantly flow- ing stream. In some kinds of apparatus of this type no attempt is made to prevent the mixing of the recently in- troduced milk with that which has been partially heated. The pattern for this reservoir type is Fjord's heater, in which the milk is stirred by a stirrer. This apparatus was originally designed as a heater for milk before separation. Reid was the first to introduce this type of machine into America. A recently devised machine of this type (Pas- teur) has been tested by Lehmann, who found that it was necessary to heat the milk as high as 176° to 185° F., in Preservation of Milk. 129 order to secure satisfactory results on the bacterial content of the cream. Tests Of apparatus. But few of the continuous-flow type of machines have been subjected to rigid bacterio- logical control, and their efficiency is questionable. By their use it may be possible to enhance the keeping qual- ity of milk in a fairly satisfactory way, and yet not in- sure complete freedom from disease-producing bacteria. One grave defect in many of them is that all parts of the milk are not heated uniformly. It is easily possible for one part to be over-heated while the remainder is under-heated; and while the outlet may show a suitable temperature, still it does not follow that all parts of the milk have been thoroughly treated. The following simple method enables the factory operator to test the period of exposure in the machine: Start the machine full of water, and after the same has become heated to the proper temperature, change the inflow to full-cream milk, continuing at the same rate. Note the exact time of change and also when first evidence .of milkiness begins to appear at outflow. If samples are taken from first appear- ance of milky condition and thereafter at definite intervals for several minutes, it is possible, by determining the amount of butter-fat in the same, to calculate with exactness how long it takes for the milk to entirely replace the water. Intermittent pasteurizers. Inasmuch as the biological and physical requirements of successful pasteurizing neces- sitate milk being heated between the temperatures of 140° and 160° F., it is desirable that the temperature should also be under complete control. Moreover, the treatment should also be in such a way as absolutely to insure all the milk being treated for a given period of time. A fulfill- 9 130 Dairy Bacteriology. ment of these conditions necessitates the use of the inter- mittent type of apparatus, or continuous apparatus ar- ranged so as practically to conform to the discontinuous process. The simplest way in which these conditions can he car- ried out is to employ a number of shot-gun cans immersed in a tank of hot water. By means of this crude device, milk or cream can he pasteurized more effectually than in many of the specially designed apparatus. Tanks surrounded with water spaces can also be used quite successfully. The use of the Boyd cream ripening vat has been sug- gested, and this fulfills the necessary conditions as'to a com- mercial pasteurizer. The cream in this is heated by means of a swinging coil immersed in the same, through which hot water circulates. In some of the pasteurizers, steam is introduced directly into the milk or cream, as in Bentley's apparatus. It is obvious that while this may be a cheaper method by which to heat the milk, still the proteids of the fluid must be scalded in part, although the temperature of the whole mass may not exceed the proper pasteurizing point. The impurities in the condensed steam are also objectionable. The first American pasteurizer to be built on the intermit- tent plan that was made to conform to biological require- ments was devised by the writer1 in 1894. It consists of a long, narrow vat, surrounded by a water chamber which is heated by steam. To facilitate the heating of the milk, both the milk and water reservoirs are supplied with agita- tors having a to-and-fro movement. The Potts pasteurizer is another machine of the inter- mittent type that has since been quite generally introduced > Russell, Wis. Expt. Stat., Bull. 44. Preservation of Milk. 131 FIG. 27. Potts pasteurizer. and which conforms to the necessary biological conditions. This apparatus has a central milk chamber that is sur- rounded with an outer shell con- taining hot water. The whole ma- chine revolves on a horizontal axis, and the cream or milk is thus thor- ough^ agitated during the heating process. Coolers, A speedy cooling of the heated product is essential to success in pasteurizing. Some of the machines have been devised for a combination purpose, being used for the heating and subsequent cooling of the milk. This is an evident advantage in some ways, as it lessens the amount of apparatus necessary, also the work involved in cleaning the same, but at the same time the problems of quick heating and cooling involve somewhat different principles, so that for the most economical manipulation of the product, separate pieces of apparatus are advisable where the business warrants such expense. The simplest method of treatment in cooling is to draw off the milk in shot-gun cans and place these first in water, then in ice-water. To cool milk most economically, two coolers should be provided. With one of these, cold water can be used, and with this the temperature can be reduced to nearly that of the water in a short time. In order, however, to lower the temperature below a point where spore germi- nation will readily occur, milk should be chilled by the 132 Dairy Bacteriology. aid of ice. This may be applied in the same cooler that is used for running cold water, by supplying ice-water for the latter part of the cooling process. To use ice economically, the ice itself should be applied as closely as possible to the milk to be cooled, for the larger part of the chilling value of ice comes from the melting of the same. To convert a pound of ice at 32° F. into a pound of water at the same temperature, if we disregard radiation, would require as much heat as would suffice to raise 142 pounds of water one degree F., or one pound of water 142° F. The ab- sorptive capacity of milk for heat (specific heat) is not quite the same as it is with water, being .847 for milk in com- parison with 1.0 for water.1 Hot milk would therefore require somewhat less ice to cool it than would be required by an equal volume of water at the same temperature. In the mere melting of a pound of ice, if expended on cooling heated milk, the temperature of pasteurized milk would be reduced to a keeping temperature. To take ad- vantage of this, the ice should be brought in close contact with the milk, rather than to utilize the specific heat in cooling water which is later applied to the milk. If broken ice is used directly, it is utilized most economically if the milk surrounds it, as in this way the ice does not absorb heat from the outside. Bacterial efficiency of pasteurizing; apparatus. The bac- terial content of pasteurized milk and cream will depend somewhat on the number of organisms originally present in the same. Naturally, if mixed milk brought to a cream- ery is pasteurized, the number of organisms remaining after treatment would be greater than if the raw material was fresh and produced on a single farm. An examination of milk and cream pasteurized on a com- 1 Fleischmann, Landw. Versuchsstat., 17: 251. Preservation of Milk. 133 mercial scale in the Russell vat at the Wisconsin Dairy school showed that over 99.8 per cent of the bacterial life in raw milk or cream was destroyed by the heat employed, i. e., 155° F. for twenty minutes du- ration.1 In nearly one-half of the sam- ples of milk, the germ content in the pasteurized sample fell below 1,000 bacteria per cc., and the average of twenty-five samples contained 6,140 bac- FIG. 28. Effect of pasteurizing on germ content £erja per cc Jn of milk. Black square represents bacteria of raw milk; small white square, those remaining after Cream the germ COn- pasteurization. tent was higher, av- eraging about 25,000 bacteria per cc. This milk was taken from the general creamery supply, which was high in organ- isms, containing on an average 3,675,000 bacteria per cc. De Schweinitz2 has reported the germ content of a supply furnished in Washington which was treated at 158° to 160° F. for fifteen minutes. This supply came from a single source. Figures reported were from 48-hour-old agar plates. Undoubtedly these would have been higher if a longer pe- riod of incubation had been maintained. The average of 82 samples, taken for the period of one year, showed 325 bacteria per cc. 1 Russell, 12 Wis. Expt. Stat. Kept , 1895, p. 160. 2De Schweinitz, Nat. Med. Rev., 1899, No. 11. CHAPTER VII. BACTERIA AND BUTTER-MAKING. IN making butter from the butter fat in milk, it is neces- sary to concentrate the fat globules into cream, preliminary to the churning process. The cream may be raised by the gravity process or separated from the milk by centrifugal action. In either case the bacteria that are normally pres- ent in the milk differentiate themselves in varying numbers in the cream and the skim-milk. The cream always con- tains per cc. a great many more than the skim-milk, the reason for this being that the bacteria are caught and held in the masses of fat globules, which, on account of their lighter specific gravity, move toward the surface of the milk or toward the interior of the separator bowl. This filtering action of the fat globules is similar to what happens in muddy water upon standing. As the suspended particles fall to the bottom they carry with them a large number of the organisms that are in the liquid. Various creaming methods. The creaming method has an important bearing on the kind as well as the number of the bacteria that are to be found in the cream. The difference in species is largely determined by the difference in ripening temperature, while the varying number is gov- erned more by the age of the milk. 1. Primitive gravity methods. In the old shallow-pan process, the temperature of the milk is relatively high, as the milk is allowed to cool naturally. This comparatively high temperature favors especially the development of those forms whose optimum growing-point is near the air Bacteria and Butter- Making. 135 temperature. By this method the cream layer is exposed to the air for a longer time than with any other, and conse- quently the contamination from this source is greater. Usually cream obtained by the shallow-pan process will contain a larger number of species and also have a higher acid content. 2. Modern gravity methods. In the Cooley process, or any of the modern gravity methods where cold water or ice is used to lower the temperature, the conditions do not favor the growth of a large variety of species. The number of bacteria in the cream will depend largely upon the man- ner in which the milk is handled previous to setting. If care is used in milking, and the milk is kept so as to ex- clude outside contamination, the cream will be freer from bacteria than if carelessness prevails in handling the milk. Only those forms will develop in abundance that are able to grow at the low temperature at which the milk is set. Cream raised by this method is less frequently infected with undesirable forms than that which is creamed at a higher temperature. 3. Centrifugal method. Separator cream should contain less germ-life than that which is secured in the old way. It should contain only those forms that have found their way into the milk during and subsequent to the milking, for the cream is ordinarily separated so soon that there is but little opportunity of infection, if care is taken in the handling. As a consequence, the number of species found therein is smaller. Where milk is separated, it is always prudent to cool the cream so as to check growth, as the milk is generally heated before separating in order to skim efficiently. Although cream is numerically much richer in bacteria 138 Dairy Bacteriology. than milk, yet the changes due to bacterial action are slower so that it usually spoils sooner than cream. For this same reason, cream will sour sooner when it remains on the milk than it will if it is separated as soon as possible. This fact indicates the necessity of early creaming, so as to increase the keeping quality of the product, and is another argu- ment in favor of the separator process. Ripening Of cream. If cream is allowed to remain at ordinary temperatures, it undergoes a series of fermenta- tion changes that are exceedingly complex in character, the result of which is to produce in butter made from the same the characteristic flavor and aroma that are so well known in this article. We are so accustomed to the de- velopment of these flavors in butter that they are not gen- erally recognized as being intimately associated with bac- terial activity unless compared with butter made from per- fectly fresh cream. Sweet-cream butter lacks the aromatic principle that is prominent in the ripened product, and while the flavor is delicate, it is relatively unpronounced. In the primitive method of butter-making, where the but- ter was made on the farm, the ripening of cream became a necessity in order that sufficient material might be accumu- lated to make a churning. The ripening change occurred spontaneously without the exercise of any especial control. With the development of the creamery system came the necessity of exercising a control of this process, and there- fore the modern butter-maker must understand the prin- ciples which are involved in this series of complex changes that largely give to his product its commercial value. In these ripening changes three different factors are to be taken into consideration: the development of acid, flavor and aroma. Much confusion in the past has arisen from a Bacteria and Butter- Making. 137 failure to discriminate between these qualities. While all three are produced simultaneously in ordinary ripening, it does not necessarily follow that they are produced by the same cause. If the ripening changes are allowed to go too far, undesirable rather than beneficial decomposition pro- ducts are produced. These greatly impair the value of but- ter, so that it becomes necessary to know just to what extent this process should be carried. In cream ripening there is a very marked bacterial growth, the extent of which is determined mainly by the temperature of the cream. Conn and Esten l find that the number of organisms may vary widely in unripened cream, but that the germ content of the ripened product is more uniform. When cream is ready for the churn, it often contains 500,000,000 organisms per cc., and frequently even a higher number. This represents a germ content that has no parallel in any natural material. The larger proportion of bacteria in cream as it is found in the creamery belong to the acid-producing class, but in the process of ripening, these forms seem to thrive still better, so that when it is ready for churning the germ con- tent of the cream is practically made up of this type. Effect on Churning. In fresh cream the fat globules which are suspended in the milk serum are surrounded by a film of albuminous material which prevents them from coalescing readily. During the ripening changes, this enveloping substance is modified, probably by partial solution, so that the globules cohere when agitated, as in churning. The result is that ripened cream churns more easily, and as it is possible to cause a larger number of the smaller fat- globules to cohere to the butter granules, the yield is 1 Conn and Esten, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt., 1901, 7: 746. 138 Dairy Bacteriology. slightly larger — a point of considerable economic impor- tance where large quantities of butter are made. Development Of acid. The result of this enormous bac- terial multiplication is that acid is produced in cream, lac- tic being the principal acid so formed. Other organic acids are undoubtedly formed as well as certain aromatic products. While the production of acid as a result of fermentative activity is usually accompanied with a development of flavor, the flavor is not directly pro- duced by the formation of acid. If cream is treated in proper proportions with a commercial acid, as hydrochloric,1 it assumes the same churning properties as found in nor- mally ripened cream, but is devoid of the desire J aromatic qualities. Lactic acid8 has also been used in a similar way but with no better results. The amount of acidity that should be developed under natural conditions so as to secure the optimum quality a» to flavor and aroma is the most important question in cream ripening. Concerning this there have been two some- what divergent views as to what is best in practice, some holding that better results were obtained with cream rip- ened to a high degree of acidity than where a less amount was developed.3 The present tendency seems to be to de- velop somewhat more than formerly, as it is thought that this secures more of the "high, quick" flavor wanted in the market. On the average, cream is ripened to about 0.5 to 0.65 per cent acidity, a higher percentage than this giving a strong-flavored butter. In the determination of acidity, the most convenient method is to employ the Far- 'Tiemann, Milch Zeit., 23:701. • Milch Zeit, 1889, p. 7; 1894, p. 634: 1895, p. 383. « Dean, Out. Agr. Coll., 1897, p. 60. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 139 rington alkaline tablet, which permits of an accurate and rapid estimation of the acidity in the ripening cream. The amount of acidity to be produced must of necessity be gov- erned by the amount of butter-fat present, for the forma- tion of acid is confined to the serum of the cream; conse- quently, a rich cream would show less acid by titration than a thinner cream, and still contain really as much acid as the other. The importance of this factor is evident in gathered-cream factories. The rate of ripening is dependent upon the conditions that affect the rate of growth of bacterial life, such as time and temperature, number of organisms in cream and also the per cent of butter fat in the cream. Some years ago it was customary to ripen cream at about 50° to 60° F., but more recently better results have been obtained, it is claimed, where the ripening temperature is increased and the period of ripening lessened. As high a temperature as TO0 to 75° F. has been recommended. It should be said that this variation in practice may have a valid scientific foundation, for the temperature of the ripening cream is un- doubtedly the most potent factor in determining what kind of bacteria will develop most luxuriantly. It is well known that those forms that are capable of producing bit- ter flavors are able to thrive better at a lower temperature than some of the desirable ripening species. The importance of this factor would be lessened where a pure culture was used in pasteurized cream, because here practically the selected organism alone controls the field. It is frequently asserted that better results are obtained by stirring the cream and so exposing it to the air as much as possible. Experiments made at the Ontario Agricul- tural College, however, show practically no difference in 140 Dairy Bacteriology. the quality of the butter made by these two methods. The great majority of the bacteria in the cream belong to the facultative class, and are able to grow under conditions where they are not in direct contact with the air, Flavor and aroma. The basis for the peculiar flavor or taste which ripened cream-butter possesses is due, in large part, to the formation of certain decomposition products formed by various bacteria. Aroma is a quality often confounded with flavor, but this is produced by volatile products only, which appeal to the sense of smell rather than taste. Generally a good flavor is accompanied by a desirable aroma, but the origin of the two qualities is not necessarily dependent on the same organisms. The quality of flavor and aroma in butter is, of course, also af- fected by other conditions, as, for instance, the presence or absence of salt, as well as the inherent qualities of the milk, that are controlled, to some extent at least, by the character of the feed which is consumed by the animal. The exact source of these desirable butevancescent qualities in butter is not yet satisfactorily determined. According to Storch,1 flavors are produced by the decomposition of the milk sugar and the absorption of the volatile flavors by the butter fat. Conn 2 holds that the nitrogenous ele- ments in cream serve as food for bacteria, and in the de- composition of which the desired aromatic substance is pro- duced. The change is unquestionably a complex one, and cannot be explained as a single fermentation. There is no longer much doubt but that both acid-forming and casein-digesting species can take part in the production of proper flavors as well as desirable aromas. The researches 1 Storch, Nogle. Unders. over Floed. Syrning, 1890. 2 Conn, 6 Storrs Expt. Stat., 1893, p. 66. Bacteria and Butter-Making. 141 of Conn,1 who lias studied this question most exhaustively, indicate that both of these types of decomposition partici- pate in the production of flavor and aroma. He has shown that both flavor and aroma production are independent of acid; that many good flavor-producing forms belong to that class which renders milk alkaline, or does not change the reaction at all. Some of these species liquefied gelatin and would therefore belong to the casein-dissolv- ing class. Those species that produced bad flavors are also included in both fermentative types. Conn has found a number of organisms that are favorable flavor-pro- ducers; in fact they were much more numerous than de- sirable aroma-yielding species. None of the favorable aroma forms according to his investigations were lactic- acid species, — a view which is also shared by Weigmann.9 McDonnell8 has found that the production of aroma in certain cases varies at different temperatures, the most pro- nounced being evolved near the optimum growing tem- perature, which, as a general rule, is too high for cream ripening. The majority of bacteria in ripening cream do not seem to exert any marked influence in butter. A considerable number of species are positively beneficial, inasmuch as they produce a good flavor or aroma. A more limited number are concerned in the production of undesirable ripening changes. This condition being true, it may seem strange that butter is as good as it is, because so frequently the requisite care is not given to the development of proper ripening. In all probability the chief reason why this is so is that those bacteria that find milk and cream pre-emi- i Conn, 9 Storrs Expt. Stat., 1896, p. 17. a Wiegmann, Milch Zeit., 1891, p. 793. • McDonnell, u. Milchsaure Bakterien (Diss. Kiel, 1899), p. 43. 142 Dairy Bacteriology. nently suited to their development, e. g. the lactic-acid class, are either neutral or beneficial in their effect on butter. Use of Starters. Experience has amply demonstrated that it is possible to control the nature of the fermentative changes that occur in ripening cream to such an extent as to materially improve the quality of the butter. This is frequently done by the addition of a " starter." While starters have been employed for man}' years for the purpose mentioned, it is only recently that their nature has been understood. A starter may be selected from widely diver- gent sources, but in all cases it is sure to contain a large number of bacteria, and the presumption is that they are of such a nature as to produce desirable fermentative changes in the cream. In the selection of these so-called natural starters, it fol- lows that they must be chosen under such conditions as experience has shown to give favorable results. For this purpose, whole milk from a single animal is often used where the same is observed to sour with the production of no gas or other undesirable taint. A skim-milk starter from a mixed supply is recommended by many. Butter milk is frequently employed, but in the opinion of butter experts is not as suitable as the others mentioned. It not infrequently happens that the practical operator may be misled in selecting a starter that is not desirable, or by continuing its use after it has become contaminated. In 1890 1 a new system of cream ripening was intro- duced in Denmark by Storch that possesses the merit of being a truly scientific and at the same time practical method. This consisted in the use of pure cultures of » Storch, Milch Zeit., 1890, p. 304. Bacteria and Butter-Making, 143 specific organisms that were selected on account of their ability to produce a desirable ripening change in cream. The introduction of these so-called culture starters has be- come almost universal in Denmark and in parts of Ger- many. Their use is also extending in this country, Aus- tralia and New Zealand. Principles of pure-culture cream-ripening:. In the proper use of pure cultures for ripening cream, it is necessary first to eliminate as far as possible the bacteria already present in cream before the culture starter is added. This result is accomplished by heating the cream to a temperature suf- ficiently high to destroy the vegetating organisms. The addition of a properly selected starter will then give the chosen organism such an impetus as will generally enable it to gain the ascendency over any other bacteria and so control the character of the ripening. The principle em- ployed is quite like that practiced in raising grain. The farmer prepares his soil by plowing, in this way killing the weeds. Then he sows his selected grain, which is merely a pure culture, and by the rapid growth of this, other forms are held in check. The attempt has been made to use these culture starters in raw sweet cream, but it can scarcely be expected that the most beneficial results will be attained in this way. This method has been justified on the basis of the following experiments. Where cream is pasteurized and no starter is added, the spore-bearing forms frequently produce unde- sirable flavors. These can almost always be controlled if a culture starter is added, the obnoxious form being re- pressed by the presence of the added starter. This condi- tion is interpreted as indicating that the addition of a starter to cream which already contains developing bacteria will Dairy Bacteriology. prevent those originally present in the cream from grow- ing.1 This repressive action of one species on another is a well-known bacteriological fact, but it must be remembered that such an explanation is only applicable in those cases where the culture organism is better able to develop than those forms that already exist in the cream. If the culture organism is added to raw milk or cream which already contains a flora that is well suited to develop in this medium, it is quite doubtful whether it would gain the supremacy in the ripening cream. The above method of adding a culture to raw cream renders cream-ripening details less burdensome, but at the same time Danish ex- perience, which is entitled to most credence on this ques- tion, is opposed to this method. Reputed advantages of culture starters. 1. Flavor and aroma. Naturally the flavor produced by pure-culture fer- ments depends upon the character of the organism used. Those which are most extensively used are able to produce a perfectly clean but mild flavor, and a delicate but not pronounced aroma. The uhigh, quick" flavor and aroma that is so much desired in the American market is not readily obtained by the use of cultures. It is quite problem- atical whether the use of any single species will give any more marked aroma than normally occurs in natural ripen- ing. 2. Uniformity of product. Culture starters produce a more uniform product because the type of fermentation is under more complete control, and herein is the greatest advantage to be derived from their use. Even the best butter-maker at times will fail to secure uniform results if his starter is not perfectly satisfactory. 1 Conn, 9 Storrs Expt. Stat, 1890, p. 25. Bacteria and Butter-Making. 145 3. Keeping quality of product. Butter made from pas- teurized cream to which a pure-culture starter has been added will keep much better than the ordinary product, be- cause the diversity of the bacterial flora is less and the milk is therefore not so likely to contain those organisms that produce an "off" condition. 4. Elimination of taints. Many defective conditions in butter are attributable to the growth of undesirable bacteria in the cream that result in the formation of "off" flavors and taints. If cream is pasteurized, thereby destroying these organisms, then ripened with pure ferments, it is generally possible to eliminate the abnormal conditions.1 Taints may also be present in cream due to direct absorption from the cow or through exposure to foul odors.2 Troubles of this sort may thus be carried over to the butter. This is particularly true in regions where leeks and wild onions abound, as in some of the Atlantic States. The heating of the cream tends to expel these volatile taints, so that a fairly good article of butter can be made from what would otherwise be a relatively worthless product. Characteristics desired in culture starters. Certain con- ditions as the following are desirable in starters made from pure cultures: 1. Vigorous growth in milk at ordinary ripening tem- peratures. 2. Ability to form acid so as to facilitate churning and increase the yield of butter. 3. Able to produce a clean flavor and desirable aroma. 4. Impart a good keeping quality to butter. i Milch Zeit., 1891, p. 122; 1894, p. 284; 1895, p. 56; 1896, p. 163. 8 McKay, Bull. 32, Iowa Expt. Stat, p. 477. 10 146 Dairy Bacteriology. 5. Not easily modified in its flavor-producing qualities by artificial cultivation. These different conditions are difficult to attain, for the reason that some of them seem to be in part incompatible. Weigmann1 found that a good aroma was generally an evanescent property, and therefore opposed to good keep- ing quality. Conn has shown that the functions of acid- formation, flavor and aroma production are not necessarily related, and therefore the .chances of finding a single or- ganism that possesses all the desirable attributes are not very good. In all probability no one germ possesses all of these de- sirable qualities, but natural ripening is the resultant of the action, of several forms.8 This idea has led to the at- tempt at mixing selected organisms that have been chosen on account of certain favorable characteristics which they might possess. The difficulty of maintaining such a com- posite culture in its correct proportions when it is propa- gated in the creamery is seemingly well nigh insuperable, as one organism is very apt to develop more or less rapidly than the other. A very satisfactory way in which these cultures are mar- keted is to mix the bacterial growth with some sterile, inert, dry substance. This is the method used in most of the Danish cultures. In this country, some of the more prominent cultures employed are marketed in a liquid form. Culture vs. home-made starters. One great advantage which has accrued from the use of culture or commercial starters has been that in emphasizing the need of closer control of the ripening process, greater attention has been » Weigmann, Lamlw. Woch. f. Schl. Hoi., No. 2, 1890. « Weigmann, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt., 3:49 7, 1897. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 147 paid to the carrying out of the details. In the hands of the better operators, the differences in flavor of butter made with a culture or a natural starter are not marked,1 but in the hands of those who fail to make a good product under ordinary conditions, an improvement is often se- cured where a commercial culture is used. Pasteurization as applied to butter-making:. This pro- cess, as applied to butter making, is often confounded with the treatment of milk and cream for direct consumption. It is unfortunate that the same term is used in connection with the two methods, for they have but little in common except in the use of heat to destroy the germ life of the milk. In pasteurizing cream for butter-making, it is not •necessary to observe the stringent precautions that are to be noted in the preservation of milk; for the addition of a rapidly developing starter controls at once the fermenta- tive changes that subsequently occur. Then again, the physical requirement as to the production of a cooked taste is not so stringent in butter-making. While a cooked taste is imparted to milk or even cream at about 158P F.r it is possible to make butter that shows no permanent cooked taste from cream that has been raised as high as 185° or even 195° F. This is due to the fact that the fat does not readily take up those substances that give to scalded milk its peculiar flavor. Unless care is taken in the manipulation of the heated cream, the grain or body of the butter may be injured. This tendency can be overcome if the ripened cream is i At the National Creamery Buttermakers1 Association lor 1901, 193 out of 240 exhibitors used starters. Of those that employed starters, nearly one-half used commercial cultures. There was practically no difference in the average score of the two classes of starters, but those using starters ranked nearly two points higher in flavor than those that did not. 148 Dairy Bacteriology. chilled to 48° F. for about two hours before churning.1 It is also essential that the heated cream should be quickly and thoroughly chilled after being pasteurized. The Danes, who were the first to employ pasteurization in butter-making, used, in the beginning, a temperature ranging from 158° to 167° F., but owing to the prevalence of such diseases as tuberculosis and foot-and-mouth disease, it became necessary to treat the milk so as to thoroughly destroy the virus of the disease. This can be done by mo- mentarily heating the same to the temperature of 185° F., and this temperature is now generally employed. With the use of this higher temperature the capacity of the pas- teurizing apparatus is considerably reduced, as not more than one-half to two-thirds as much milk can be handled at 185° as at 158° F. When the system was first introduced in Denmark, two methods of procedure were followed: the whole milk was either heated before separation, or the cream was pasteur- ized afterwards, the skim milk being treated separately. At the present time the latter system is gaining grou'nd. The present law makes it compulsory to heat all skim milk to 185° F. to avoid the dissemination of the diseases previously mentioned. Apparatus for pasteurizing. As it is not necessary to heat the milk or cream for butter-making under such a narrow range of conditions as when designed for direct con- sumption, it is permissible to employ machinery that be- longs to the continuous-flow type. These pasteurizers have a large capacity and it is possible to handle in them several thousand pounds per hour. The majority of apparatus for this purpose has originated in Denmark and Germany. * N. Y. Prod. Rev., October, 1899. Bacteria and .Butter- A quantitative determination of the bacteria found in milk and cream when, treated in machinery of this class almost always shows a degree of variation in results that is not to be noted in the discontinuous apparatus. FIG. 29. Reid's Continuous Pasteurizer. Harding and Rogers l have tested the efficiency of one of the Danish type of continuous pasteurizers. These ex- periments were made at 158°, 176° and 185° F. They * Harding and Rogers, Bull. 182, N. Y. (Geneva) Expt. Stat., Dec., 1899. 150 Dairy Bacteriology. found the efficiency of the machine not wholly satisfactory at the lower temperatures. At 158° F. the average of four- teen tests gave 15,300 bacteria per cc., with a maximum to minimum range from 62,790 to 120. Twenty-five examina- tions at 176° F. showed an average of only 117, with a range from 300 to 20. The results at 185° F. showed practically the same results as noted at 176° F. Consider- able trouble was experienced with the " scalding on " of the milk to the walls of the machine when milk of high acidity was used. The writer1 tested Reid's pasteurizer at 155° to 165° F. with the following results: in some cases as many as 40 per cent of the bacteria survived, which number in some cases exceeded 2,000,000 bacteria per cc. Development of pasteurization and pure-culture ripening. Since the introduction of this system into Denmark in 1890, creamery methods have been completely revolution- ized. At the present time practically all of the butter ex- ported to England is prepared in this way and by far the larger part of that which is consumed at home. There are several different selected commercial cultures that are used. In Sweden, in 1897, 67 per cent of creameries pasteurized their product. In Germany the system has been adopted most exten- sively in the north, and may be said to be practically an ex- tension of the Danish system. In southern Germany the method is not employed to any extent. In this country considerable agitation has been given the matter, but the process has been but slowly adopted. Under the auspices of the Department of Agriculture at Washington, considerable effort has been put forth in the 'Russell, Bull. 69, Wis. Expt. Stat. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 151 preparation of culture butter especially for export trade. In some cases this work has borne fruitage,1 but in general the flavor of butter made from pasteurized cream is not as " high " and " quick " as that made in the other way, and therefore it does not meet this desired requisite of the American market. The mild, clean flavor which charac- terizes culture butter is particularly desired by the English market, to which the bulk of the Danish butter goes. Con- siderable " pasteurized " or "culture" butter has been ex- ported from Australia 2 and New Zealand to England and it is said that the system is gaining ground slowly. Where the market demands are satisfied with the quality of butter that can best be made by this system, the method is undoubtedly destined to be adopted more and more gen- erally, as the uniformity of product obtained is a great ad- vantage. The system entails considerable labor and some expense, and the question as to its more general adoption will be determined by the advantages gained. Propagation of starters for cream-ripening:. The prepa- ration-and propagation of a starter for cream-ripening is a process involving considerable bacteriological knowledge, whether the starter is of domestic origin or prepared from a pure-culture ferment. In any event, it is necessary that the starter should be handled in a way so as to prevent the introduction of foreign bacteria as far as possible. The following points should be kept in mind in manipulating the starter: 1. If a pure-culture ferment is used, see that it is fresh and that the seal has not been disturbed. 1 Some of the larger western creamery syndicates are pasteurizing a large part of the cream they receive. 2 Cherry, Farm and Home, Aug., 1900. 152 Dairy Bacteriology. 2. If a home-made starter is employed, use the greatest possible care in selecting the milk that is to be used as a basis for the starter. 3. For the propagation and perpetuation of the starter from day to day, it is necessary that the same should be grown in milk that is as germ-free as it is possible to secure it. For this purpose sterilize some fresh skim-milk in a covered can that has previously been well steamed. This can be done easily by setting cans containing skim-milk in a vat filled with water and heating th* same to 180° F. or above. The temperature should be maintained for a half hour or more. This destroys all but a few of the most re- sistant spore-bearing organisms. This will give a cooked flavor to the milk, but will not affect the cream to which the starter is added. Dairy supply houses are now intro- ducing the use of starter cans that are specially made for this purpose. 4. After the heated milk is cooled down to about 70° or 80° F., it can be inoculated with the desired culture. Some- times it is desirable to " build up " the starter by propagat- ing it first in a smaller volume of milk, and then after this has developed, adding it to a larger amount. This method is of particular value where a large amount of starter is needed for the cream-ripening. 5. After the milk has been inoculated, it should be kept at a temperature that is suitable for the rapid development of the contained bacteria, 65°-75° F., which temperature should be kept as uniform as possible. 6. This can best be done by setting can in vat filled with warm water and covering the same with a wooden cover or heavy cloth during the night to maintain proper tem- perature. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 153 7. The starter should not be thoroughly curdled and solid when it is needed for use, but should be well soured and partially curdled. This point is of importance for the fol- lowing reasons: a. It is difficult to thoroughly break up curd particles if the starter is completely curdled. If these curd masses are added to ripening cream, white specks may appear in the butter. b. The vigor of the starter is in all probability stronger when the milk is on the point of curdling than it is after the curd has been formed some time. The continued for- mation of lactic acid kills many of the bacteria and thus weakens the fermentative action. It is therefore highly important that the acidity of the starter should be closely watched. 8. The starter should be propagated from day to day by adding a small quantity to a new lot of freshly prepared milk. For this purpose two propagating cans should be provided so that one starter may be in use while the other is being prepared. 9. The butter-maker must exercise his judgment as to the condition of his starter. If the same should appear moldy or contain evidence of gas, the skim milk has been imperfectly handled. How long should a starter be propagated? No hard-and- fast rule can be given for this, for it depends largely upon how carefully the starter is handled during its propaga- tion. If the starter is grown in sterilized milk kept in steamed vessels and is handled with sterile dippers, it is possible to maintain it in a state of relative purity for a considerable period of time; if, however, no especial care is given, it will soon become infected by the air, and the 154: Dairy Bacteriology. retention of its purity will depend more upon the ability of the contained organism to choke out foreign growths than upon any other factor. Experience seems to indicate that pure-culture starters " run out " sooner than domestic starters. While it is possible, by bacteriological methods, to determine with accuracy the actual condition of a starter as to its germ content, still such methods are inapplicable in creamery practice. Here the maker must rely largely upon the general appearance of the starter as determined by taste and smell. The supply houses that deal in cult- ures of this class generally expect to supply a new culture at least every month. Bacteria in butter. As ripened cream is necessarily rich in bacteria, it follows that butter will also contain germ life in varying amounts, but as butter- fat is not well adapted for bacterial food, the number of germs in butter is usually less than in ripened cream. Sweet-cream butter is naturally poorer in germ life than that made from ripened cream. Grotenfelt1 reports in sweet-cream butter, the so-called " Paris butter," only 120 to 300 bacteria per cc., while in butter from sour crearn 2,000 to 55,000 germs per cc. were found. Pammel8 found from 125,000 to 730,000 per gram, while Lafar3 found in butter sold in Munich from 10,000,000 to 20,000,000 organ- isms per gram. The germ content of butter on the outside of a package is much greater than it is in the middle of a mass, this doubtless being due to the freer access of air favoring the growth of aerobic forms. » Grotenfelt-Woll, Prin. Mod. Dairy Practice, p. 244. « Pammel, Bull. 21, Iowa Expt. Stat., p. 801. « Lafar, Arch. f. Hyg., 1891, 18:1. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 155 Changes in germ content. The bacteria that are incor- porated with the butter as it first "comes" undergo a slight increase for the first few days. The duration of this period of increase is dependent largely upon the condition of the butter. If the buttermilk is well worked out of the butter, the increase is slight and lasts for a few days only, while the presence of so nutritious a medium as buttermilk affords conditions much more favorable for the continued growth of the organisms. While there may be many varieties in butter when it is fresh, they are very soon reduced in kind as well as num- ber. The lactic acid group of orgariisms disappear quite rapidly; the sppre-bearing species remaining for a some- what longer time. Butter examined after it is several months old is often found to be almost free from germs. In the manufacture of butter there is much that is de- pendent upon the mechanical processes of churning, wash- ing, salting and working the product. These processes do not involve any bacteriological principles other than those that are incident to cleanliness. The cream, if ripened properly, will contain such enormous numbers of favorable forms that the access of the few organisms that are derived from the churn, the air, or the water in washing will have little effect, unless the conditions are abnormal. Rancid change in butter. Fresh butter has a peculiar aroma that is very desirable and one that enhances the market price, if it can be retained; but this delicate flavor is more or less evanescent, soon disappearing, even in the best makes. While a good butter loses with age some of the peculiar aroma that it possesses when first made, yet a gilt-edged product should retain its good keeping qualities for some length of time. All butters, however, sooner or 15G Dairy Bacteriology. later undergo a change that renders them worthless for table use. This change is usually a rancidity that is observed in all stale products of this class. The cause of this rancid condition in butter has been attributed to the action of living organisms, particularly those that form butyric acid, to the influence of light, air, etc. Undoubtedly under cer- tain conditions, rancidity may be produced by the opera- tion of all of the above agents. Although the subject has been quite extensively studied, there is yet considerable variation in opinion as to the exact nature of the causal agents.1 BACTERIAL DEFECTS IN" BUTTER. Lack of flavor. Often this may be due to improper handling of the cream in not allowing it to ripen far enough, but sometimes it is impossible to produce a high flavor. The lack of flavor in this case is due to the ab- sence of the proper flavor-producing organisms. This con- dition can usually be overcome by the addition of a proper starter. The relation between flavor and desirable bacteria is very intimate, and troubles of this kind usually arise because the proper forms commonly found in the cream have been supplanted by other species that do not possess the ability of forming these aromatic substances so neces- sary in sour-cream butter. Putrid butter. This specific butter trouble has been ob- served in Denmark, where it has been studied by Jensen.8 Butter affected by it rapidly acquires a peculiar putrid odor that ruins it for table use. Sometimes, this flavor may be developed in the cream previous to churning. iReinmann. Cent. f. Bakt., 1900, 6:131; Jensen, Landw. Jahr. d. Schweiz, 1901. •Jensen, Cent. f. Bakt., 1891, 11:409. Bacteria and Butter- Making. 157 Jensen found the trouble to be due to several different putrefactive bacteria. One form which he called Bacillus fcetidus lactis, a close ally of the common feces bacillus, produced this rotten odor and taste in milk in a very short time. Fortunately, this organism was easily killed by a comparatively low heat, so that pasteurization of the cream and use of a culture starter quickly eliminated the trouble, where it was tried. Turnip-flavored butter. Butter sometimes acquires a peculiar flavor recalling the order of turnips, rutabagas, and other root crops. Often this trouble is due to feed- ing, there being in several of these crops, aromatic sub- stances that pass directly into the milk, but in some in- stances the trouble arises from bacteria that are able to produce decomposition products,1 the odor and taste of which strongly recalls these vegetables. "Cowy" butter. Frequently there is to be noted in milk a peculiar odor that resmbles that of the cow stable. Usually this defect in milk has been ascribed to the absorp- tion of impure gases by the milk as it cools, although the gases and odors naturally present in fresh mills: have this peculiar property that is demonstrable by certain methods of aeration. Occasionally it is transmitted to butter, and recently Pammel" has isolated from butter a bacillus that produced in milk the same peculiar odor so commonly pres- ent in stables. Lardy and tallowy butter. The presence of this un- pleasant taste in butter may be due to a variety of causes. In some instances, improper food seems to be the source of the trouble; then again,. butter exposed to direct sunlight » Jensen, Milch Zeit., 1892, 6, Nos. 5 and 6. Bull. 21, Iowa Expt. Stat., p. 803. 158 Dairy Bacteriology. bleaches in color and develops a lardy flavor.1 In addition to these, cases have been found in which the defect has been traced to the action of bacteria. Storch * has described a lactic-acid form in a sample of tallowy butter that was able to produce this disagreeable odor. Oily butter. Jensen has isolated one of the causes of the dreaded oily butter that is reported quite frequently in Denmark. The specific organism that he found belongs to the sour-milk bacteria. In twenty-four hours it curdle8 milk, the curd being solid like that of ordinary sour milk. There is produced, however, in addition to this, an unpleas- ant odor and taste resembling that of machine oil, a pe- culiarity that is transmitted directly to butter made from affected cream. Bitter butter. Now and then butter develops a bitter taste that may be due to a variety of different bacterial forms. In most cases, the bitter flavor in the butter is derived primarily from the bacteria present in the cream or milk. Several of the fermentations of this character in milk are also to be found in butter. In addition to these defects produced by a biological cause, bitter flavors in butter are sometimes produced by the milk being im- pregnated with volatile, bitter substances derived from weeds. Moldy butter. This defect is perhaps the most serious because most common. It is produced by the development of a number of different varieties of molds. The trouble appears most frequently in packed butter on the outside of the mass of butter in contact with the tub. Mold spores are so widely disseminated that if proper conditions are 1 Fischer, Hyg. Bund, 5:573. 2 Storch, 18 Kept. Danish Agric. Expt, Stat., 1890. Bacteria and Butter-Making. 159 given for their germination, they are almost sure to develop. In some cases the mold is due to the growth of the ordinary bread mold, Penicillium glaucum; in other cases a black mold develops, due often to Cladosporium butyri. Not in- frequently trouble of this character is associated with the use of parchment wrappers. The difficulty can easily be held in check by soaking the parchment linings and the tubs in a strong brine. Fishy butter. Considerable trouble has been experienced in Australian butter exported to Europe in which a fishy flavor developed. It was noted that the production of this defect seemed to be dependent upon the storage tempera- ture at which the butter was kept. When the butter was refrigerated at 15° F. no further difficulty was experienced. It is claimed that the cause of this condition is due to the formation of trimethylamine (herring brine odor) due to the growth of the mold fungus Oidium lactis, developing in combination with the lactic-acid bacteria. CHAPTER VIII. BACTERIA IN CHEESE. THE art of cheese-making, like all other phases of dairy- ing, has been developed mainly as a result of empirical methods. Within the last decade or so, the subject has received more attention from the scientific point of view and the underlying causes determined to some extent. Since the subject has been investigated from the bacterio- logical point of view, much light has been thrown on the cause of many changes that were heretofore inexplicable. Our knowledge, as yet, is quite meager, but enough has already been determined to indicate that the whole indus- try is largely based on the phenomena of ferment action, and that the application of bacteriological principles and ideas is sure to yield more than ordinary results, in explaining, in a rational way, the reasons underlying many of the pro- cesses to be observed in this industry. The problem of good milk is a vital one in any phase of dairy activity, but it is pre-eminently so in cheese-making, for the abilitjr to make a first-class product depends to a large extent on the quality of the raw material. Cheese contains so large a proportion of nitrogenous constituents that it is admirably suited, as a food medium, to the devel- opment of bacteria; much better, in fact, than butter. INFLUENCE OF BACTERIA IN NORMAL CHEESE PROCESSES . In the manufacture of cheddar cheese bacteria exert a marked influence in the initial stages of the process. To produce the proper texture that characterizes cheddar cheese, it is necessary to develop a certain amount of acid Bacteria in Cheese. 1611 which acts upon the casein. This acidity is measured by> the development of the lactic-acid bacteria that normally abound in the milk; or, as the cheese-maker expresses it, the milk is "ripened " to the proper point. The action of the rennet, which is added to precipitate the casein of the milk, is markedly affected by the amount of acid present, as well as the temperature. Hence it is desirable to have a standard amount of acidity as well as a standard tem- perature for coagulation, so as to unify conditions. It frequently happens that the milk is abnormal with refer- ence to its bacterial content, on account of the absence of the proper lactic bacteria, or the presence of forms capable of producing fermentative changes of an undesirable char- acter. In such cases the maker attempts to overcome the effect of the unwelcome bacteria by adding a "starter; " or. he must vary his method of manufacture to some extent to meet these new conditions. Use of Starters. A starter maybe employed to hasten the ripening of milk that is extremely sweet, so as to cur- tail the time necessary to get the cheese to press; or it may be used to overcome the effect of abnormal conditions. The starter that is employed is generally one of domestic origin, and is usually taken from skim milk that has been allowed to ferment and sour under carefully controlled con- ditions. Of course much depends upon the quality of the starter, and in a natural starter there is always the possibility that it may not be perfectly pure. Within recent years the attempt has been made to con- trol the effect of the starter more thoroughly by using pure cultures of some desirable lactic-acid form.1 This has ren- 1 Russell, 13 Rept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1896, p. 112; Campbell, Trans. High. & Agr. Soc. Scotland, 5 ser., 1898, 10:181. 11 162 Dairy Bacteriology. dered the making of cheese not only more uniform, but has aided in repressing abnormal fermentations particularly those that are characturized by the production of gas. Recentl3T, pure cultures of Adametz's B. nobilis, a di- gesting organism that is claimed to be the cause of the breaking down of the casein and also of the peculiar aroma of Emmenthaler cheese, has been placed on the market under the name Tyrogen. It is claimed that the use of this starter, which is added directly to the milk and also rubbed on the surface of the cheese, results in the improvement of the curds, assists in the development of the proper holes, imparts a favorable aroma and hastens ripening.1 Campbell 2 states that the discoloration of cheese in Eng- land, which is due to the formation of white spots that are produced by the bleaching of the coloring matter in the cheese, may be overcome by the use of lactic-acid starters. The use of stringy or slimy whey has been advocated in Holland for some years as a means of overcoming the tendency toward gas formation in Edam cheese which is made from practically sweet milk. This fermentation, the essential feature of which is produced by a culture oi Strep- tococcus Hollandicus? develops acid in a marked degree, thereby inhibiting the production of gas. The use of masses of moldy bread in directing the fer- mentation of Roquefort cheese is another illustration of the empirical development of starters, although in this in- stance it is added after the curds have been prepared for the press. Pasteurizing milk for cheese-making;. If it were pos- sible to use properly pasteurized milk in cheese-making, * Winkler, Milch Zeit. (Hildesheim}, Nov. 24, 1900. 'Campbell, No. Brit., Agric., May 12, 1897. , • Weigmann, Milch Zeit., No. 50, 1889. J3acteria in Cheese. 163 then practically all abnormal conditions could be controlled by the use of properly selected starters. Numerous at- tempts have been made to perfect this system with refer- ence to cheddar cheese, but so far they have been attended with imperfect success. The reason for this is that in pas- teurizing milk, the soluble lime salts are precipitated by the action of heat, and under these conditions rennet extract does not curdle the casein in a normal manner. This con- dition can be restored, in part at least, by the addition of soluble lime salts, such as calcium chlorid; but in our ex- perience, desirable results were not obtained where heated milks to -which this calcium solution had been added were made into cheddar cheese. Considerable experience has been gained in the use of heated milks in the manufacture of cer- tain types of foreign cheese. Klein1 finds that Brick cheese •can be successfully made even where the milk is heated as high as 185° F. An increased weight is secured by the addi- tion of the coagulated albumin and also increased moisture. Bacteria in rennet. In the use of natural rennets, such as are frequently employed in tbe making of Swiss cheese, considerable numbers of bacteria are added to the milk. Al- though these rennets are preserved in salt, alcohol or boric acid, they are never free from bacteria. Adametz 8 found ten different species and from 640,000 to 900,000 bacteria per cc. in natural rennets. Freudenreich has shown that rennet extract solutions can be used in Swiss cheese-mak- ing quite as well as natural rennets; but to secure the best results, a small quantity of pure lactic ferment must be added to simulate the conditions that prevail when natural rennets are soaked in whey, which, it must be remembered, is a fluid rich in bacterial life. * Klein, Milch Zeit. (Hildesheim), No. 17, 1900. 8 Adametz, Landw. Jahr., 18:256. 164 Dairy Bacteriology. Where rennet extract or tablets are used, as is gener- erally the case in cheddar making, the number of bacteria added is so infinitesimal as to be negligible. Development Of acid. In the manufacture of cheddar cheese, the development of acid exerts an important influ- ence on the character of the product. This is brought about by holding the curds at temperatures favorable to the growth of the bacteria in the same. Under these conditions the lactic-acid organisms, which usually predominate, de- velop very rapidly, producing thereby considerable quan- tities of acid which change materially the texture of the curds. This acid unites to some extent with the casein, thereby producing compounds of a character different from those existing in the green curds. The acid also ex- erts a slight solvent effect on the casein, as is seen in the " strings " made on the " hot iron." This causes the curds to mat, producing a close, solid body free from mechan- ical holes. Still further, the development of this acid is necessary for the digestive activity of the pepsin in the rennet extract. In some varieties of cheese, as the Swiss, acid is not de- veloped and the character of the cheese is much different from that of cheddar. In all such varieties, a great deal more trouble is experienced from the production of " gassy " curds, because the development of the gas-producing bac- teria is held in check by the rapid growth of the lactic acid- producing species. Bacteria in green cheese. The conditions under which cheese is made permit of the development of bacteria throughout the entire process. The cooking or heating of curds to expel the excessive moisture is never so high as to be fatal to germ life; on the contrary, the acidity of the Bacteria .in Cheese. 165 curd and whey is continually increased by the development of bacteria in the same. The body of green cheese fresh from the press is, to a considerable extent, dependent upon the acid produced in the curds. If the curds are put to press in a relatively sweet condition the texture is open and porous. The curd particles do not mat closely together and u mechanical holes," rough and irregular in outline, occur. Very often, FIG. 30. L, a sweet curd cheese direct from the press. " Mechanical " holes due to lack of acid development; P, same cheese fpur days later, mechanical holes distended by development of gas. at relatively high temperatures, such cheese begin to u huff," soon after being taken from the press, a condition due to the development of gas, produced by gas-generating bacteria acting on the sugar in the curd. This gas finds its way readily into these ragged holes, greatly distending them, as in Fig. 30. Physical changes in ripening cheese. When a green cheese is taken from the press, the curd is tough, firm, but elastic. It has no value as a food product for immediate use, 166 Dairy Bacteriology. because it lacks a desirable flavor and is not readily digesti- ble. It is nothing but precipitated casein and fat. in a short time, a deep-seated change occurs. Physically this change is demonstrated in the modification that the curd undergoes. Gradually it breaks down and becomes plastic, the elastic, tough curd being changed into a soft- ened mass. This change in texture of the cheese is also ac- companied by a marked change in flavor. The green cheese has no distinctively cheese flavor, but in course of time, with the gradual change of texture, the peculiar flavor in- cident to ripe cheese is developed. The characteristic texture and flavor are susceptible of considerable modification that is induced not only by varia- tion in methods of manufacture, but by the conditions under which the chaese are cured. The amount ot moist- ure incorporated with the curd materially affects the phys- ical appearance of the cheese, and the rate of change in the same. The ripening temperature, likewise the moisture content of the surrounding air, also exerts a marked in- fluence on the physical properties of the cheese. To some extent the action of these forces is purely physical, as in the gradual loss by drying, but in other respects they are associated with chemical transformations. Chemical changes in ripening cheese. Coincident with the physical breaking down of the curd comes a change in the chemical nature of the casein. The hitherto insoluble casein is gradually transformed into soluble nitrogenous substances (caseone of Duclaux, or caseogluten of Weig- mann). This chemical phenomenon is a breaking-down process that is analogous to the peptonization of proteids, although in addition to the peptones and albumoses char- acteristic of peptic digestion, amido-acids and ammonia are Bacteria in Cheese. 167 to be found. The quantity of these lower products in- creases with the age of the cheese. The chemical reaction of cheese is normally acid to phenolphthalein, although there is generally no free acid, as shown by Congo red, the lactic acid being converted into salts as fast as formed. In very old cheese, undergo- ing putrefactive changes, especially on the outside, an alka- line reaction may be present, due to the formation of free ammonia. The changes that occur in a ripening cheese are for the most part confined to the proteids. According to most in- vestigators the fat remains practically unchanged, although the researches of Weigrnann and Backe l show that fatty acids are formed from the fat. In the green cheese con- siderable milk-sugar is present, but, as a result of the fer- mentation that occurs, this is rapidly converted into acid products. Bacterial flora Of Cheese. It might naturally be expected that the green cheese, fresh from the press, would contain practically the same kind of bacteria that are in the milk, but a study of cheese shows a peculiar change in the char- acter of the flora. In the first place, fresh cottage cheese, made by the coagulation of the casein through the action of acid, has a more diversified flora than cheese mada with rennet, for the reason, as given by Lafar,2 that the fermen- tative process is farther advanced. When different varieties of cheese are made from milk in the same locality, the germ content of even the ripened product has a marked similarity, as is illustrated by Adametz's work 3 on Emmenthaler or Swiss hard cheese, 1 Milch Zeit., 1898, No. 49, 2 Lafar, Technical Mycology, p. 21t>. 8 Adametz, Landw. Jahr., 18: 228. 168 Dairy Bacteriology. and Schweitzer Hauskase, a soft variety. Of the nln3 species of bacilli and cocci found in mature Emmenthaler, eight of them were also present in ripened Hauskase. Different investigators have studied the bacterial flora of various kinds of cheese, but as yet little comparative sys- tematic work has been done. Freudenreich * has determined the character and number of bacteria in Emmenhtaler cheese, and Russell 2 the same for cheddar cheese. The same general law has also been noted in Canadian 8 and Eng- lish4 cheese. At first there is found a marked decrease in numbers, lasting for a day or two. This is followed by an enormous increase, caused by the rapid growth of the lactic-acid type. The development may reach scores oi millions and often over a hundred million organisms per gram. Synchronous with this increase, the peptonizing and gas-producing bacteria gradually disappear. This rapid development, which lasts only for a few weeks, is followed by a general decline. In the ripening of cheese a question arises as to whether the process goes on throughout the entire mass of cheese, or whether it is more active at or near the surface. In the case of many of the soft cheese, such as Brie and limburger, bacterial and mold development is exceedingly active on the exterior, and the enzyms secreted by these organisms dif- fuse toward the interior. That such a condition occurs in the hard type of cheese made with rennet is extremely im- probable. Most observers agree that in this type of cheese the ripening progresses throughout the entire mass, al- though Adametz opposes this view and considers that in 1 Freudenreich, Landw. Jahr. d. Schweiz, 4: 17; 5: 16. 'Russell, 13 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 18%, p. 95. 8 Harrison, Unpublished Data. * Lloyd, Bath ajd West of Eng. Soc. Kept., 1892, 2: 180. Bacteria in Cheese. 169 Emmenthaler cheese the development of the specific aroma- producing organism occurs in the superficial layers. Jen- sen has shown, however, that the greatest amount of soluble nitrogenous products are to be found in the inner- most part of the cheese, a condition that is not reconcil- able with the view that the most active ripening is on the exterior.1 The course of development of bacteria in cheddar cheese is somewhat influenced by the ripening temperature. In cheese ripened at relatively low temperatures (50°-55° F.),2 the bacterial flora retains for a considerable period the same general aspect as in the milk. Under these condi- tions the lactic-acid type does not gain the ascendancy so readily. In cheese cured at high temperatures (80°-86° F.), the number of organisms is greatly diminished, and they fail to persist in appreciable numbers for as long a time as in cheese cured at temperatures more frequently employed. Influence of temperature on curing. Temperature exerts a most potent influence on the quality of the cheese, as de- termined not only by the rate of ripening but the nature of the process itself. Much of the poor quality of cheese is attributable to the effect of improper curing conditions. Probably in the initial stage of this industry cheese were allowed to ripen without any sort of control, with the inevitable result that during the summer months the tem- perature generally fluctuated so much as to impair seriously the quality. The effect of high temperatures (70° F. and above) is to produce a rapid curing, and, therefore, a short lived cheese; also a sharp, strong flavor, and generally a i Freudenreich, Landw. Jahr. d. Schweiz, 1900; Adametz, Oest. Molk. Zeit., 1899, No. 7. - » Russell, 14 Wis. Expt. Stat., 1897, p. 203. 170 Dairy Bacteriology. more or less open texture. Unless the cheese is made from the best quality of milk, it is very apt to undergo abnormal fermentations, more especially those of a gassy character. Where cheese is ripened at low temperatures, ranging from 50° F. down to nearly the freezing temperatures, it is 9ozs. FIG. 31. Influence of curing temperature on texture of cheese. Upper row ripened eight months at 60° F. ; lower row at 40° F. found that the quality is greatly improved.1 Such cheese are thoroughly broken down from a physical point of view even though they majr not show such a high per cent of soluble nitrogenous products. They have an excellent texture, generally solid and firm, free from all tendency to openness; and, moreover, their flavor is clean and entirely devoid of the sharp, undesirable tang that so frequently appears in old cheese. The keeping quality of such cheese is much superior to the ordinary product. The introduc- » Babcock and Russell, 18 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1901. Bacteria in Cheese. 171 tion of this new system of cheese-curing promises much from a practical point of view, and undoubtedly a more complete study of the subject from a scientific point of view will aid materially in unraveling some of the problems as to flavor production. Theories of cheese curing. Within the last few years considerable study has been given the subject of cheese cur- ing or ripening, in order to explain how this physical and chemical transformation is brought about. Much of the misconception that has arisen relative to the cause of cheese ripening comes from a confusion of terms. In the ordinary use of the word, ripening or cur- ing of cheese is intended to signify the sum total of all the changes that result in converting the green product as it comes from the press into the edible substance that is known as cured cheese. As previously shown, the most marked chemical transformation that occurs is that which has to do with the peptonization or breaking down of the casein. It is true that under ordinary conditions this de- composition process is also accompanied with the forma- tion of certain flavor-producing substances, more or less aromatic in character; but it by no means follows that these two processes are necessarily related to each other. The majority of investigators have failed to consider these two questions of casein decomposition and flavor as independ- ent, or at least as not necessarily related. They are un- doubtedly closely bound together, but it will be shown later that the problems are quite different and possibly suscep- tible of more thorough understanding when considered separately. In the earlier theories of cheese ripening it was thought to be purely a chemical change, but, with- the growth of 172 Da try Bacteriology. bacteriological science, evidence was forthcoming that seemed to indicate that the activity of organisms entered into the problem. SchafFer1 showed that if milk was boiled and made into cheese, the casein failed to break down. Adametz 2 added to green cheese various disinfectants, as creolin and thymol, and found that this practically stopped the curing process. From these experiments he drew the conclusion that bacteria must be the cause of the change, because these organisms were killed; but when it is con- sidered that such treatment would also destroy the activity of enzyms as well as vital ferments, it is evident that these experiments were quite indecisive. A determination of the nature of the by-products found in maturing cheese indicates that the general character of the ripening change is a peptonization or digestion of the casein. Until recently the most widely accepted views relating to the cause of this change have been those which ascribed the transformation to the activity of micro-organisms, although concerning the nature of these organisms there has been no unanimity of opinion. The overwhelming development of bacteria in all cheeses naturally gave sup- port to this view; and such experiments as detailed above strengthened the idea that the casein transformation could not occur where these ferment organisms were destroj'ed. The very nature of the changes produced in the casein signified that to take part in this process any organism must possess the property of dissolving the proteid mole- cule, casein, and forming therefrom by-products that are most generally found in other digestive or peptonizing changes of this class. . 'Schaffer, Milch Zeit, 1889, p. 146. 'Adametz, Land w. Jahr., 18:261. Bacteria in Cheese. 173 Digestive bacterial theory. The first theory propounded was that of Duclaux,1 who in 1887 advanced the idea that this change was due to that type of bacteria which is able to liquefy gelatin, peptonize milk, and cause a hydrolytic change in proteids. To this widely-spread group that he found in cheese, he gave the generic name Tyrothrix (cheese hairs). According to him, these organisms do not function directly as ripening agents, but they secrete an enzym or unorganized ferment to which he applies the name casease. This ferment acts upon the casein of milk, converting it into a soluble product known as caseone. These organisms are found in normal milk, and if they function as casein transformers, one would naturally expect them to be present, at least frequently, if not predominat- ing in the ripening cheese; but such is not the case. In typical cheddar or Swiss cheese, they rapidly disappear (p. 168), although in the moister, softer varieties, they per- sist for considerable periods of time. According to Freud- enreich, even where these organisms are added in large numbers to the curd, they soon perish, an observation that is not regarded as correct by the later adherents to the di- gestive bacterial theory, as Adametz and Winkler. Duclaux's experiments were made with liquid media for isolation purposes, and his work, therefore, cannot be re- garded as satisfactory as that carried out with more modern technical methods. Recently this theory has been revived by Adametz,2 who claims to have found in Em men thaler cheese a digesting species, one of the Tyrothrix type, which is capable of peptonizing the casein and at the same time producing the characteristic flavor of this class of cheese. i Duclaux, Le Lait, p. 213. « Adametz, Oest. Molk. Zeit., 1900, Nos. 16-18. 174: Dairy Bacteriology. This organism, called by him Bacillus nolilis, the Edelpilz of Emmenthaler cheese, has been subjected to comparative experiments, and in the cheese made with pure cultures of this germ better results are claimed to have been secured. Sufficient experiments have not as yet been reported by other investigators to warrant the acceptance of the claims made relative to the effect of this organism. Lactic-acid bacterial theory. It has already been shown that the lactic-acid bacteria seems to find in the green cheese the optimum conditions of development; that they increase enormously in numbers for a short period, and then finally decline. This marked development, coincident with the breaking down of the casein, has led to the view which has been so ably expounded by Freudenreich ' that this type of bacterial action is concerned in the ripening of cheese. This group of bacteria is, under ordinary condi- tions, unable to liquefy gelatin, or digest milk, or, in fact, to exert, under ordinary conditions, any proteolytic or pep- tonizing properties. This has been the stumbling-block to the acceptance of this hypothesis, as an explanation of the breaking down of the casein. Freudenreich has re- cently carried on experiments which he believes solve the problem. By growing cultures of these organisms in milk, to which sterile, freshly precipitated chalk had been added, he was able to prolong the development of bacteria for a considerable period of time, and as a result finds that an appreciable part of the casein is digested; but this action is so slow compared with what normally occurs in a cheese, that exception may well be taken to this type of experi- ment alone. Weigmann 2 inclines to the view that the 1 Freudenreich, Landw. Jahr. d. Schweiz, 1897, p. 85. * Weigmann, Cent. f. Bakt., II Abt., 1898, 4:593; also 1899, 5:630. Bacteria in Cheese. 175 lactic-acid bacteria are not the true cause of the peptoniz- ing process, but that their development prepares the soil, as it were, for those forms that are more directly concerned in the peptonizing process. This they do by developing an acid substratum that renders possible the more luxuriant growth of the aroma-producing species. According to Goriiii,1 certain of the Tyrothrix forms function at high temperatures as lactic acid producing bacteria, while at lower temperatures they act as peptonizers. On this basis he seeks to reconcile the discrepancies that appear in the experiments of other investigators. Milk enzym (galactase) theory. In 1897 B ibcock and the writer2 showed experimentally that milk is digested spontaneously when treated with various anaesthetics like ether, chloroform and benzol. Under these conditions it w.is demonstrated that bacterial activity was entirely suppressed. Furthermore the3r showed that the nature of the by-prod- ucts produced in such cases was identical with those found in a maturing cheese, albumoses, peptones, arnido-acids and ammonia being present in varying amounts. When milk or curd was heated to 175° F. or above, or treated with strong chemicals, this digestive process was stopped. Under these conditions the only agents capable of pro- ducing such changes were enzyms, and they found that it was possible to concentrate this milk enzyin in centrifuge slime. The addition of these slime extracts to boiled milk started anew the digestive process, and produced by-prod- ucts identical with those occurring in normal cheese. This enzym, called by them galactase, on account of its origin in milk, is somewhat closely related to the tryptic type 1 Grorini, Abs. in Expt. Stat. Rec.. 11:388. a Babcock and Cussell, 14 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1897, p. 161. 176 Dairy Bacteriology. of ferments, but yet sufficiently distinct to be separated from trypsin. Jensen1 has also shown that the addition of pancreatic extracts to cheese accelerated the formation of soluble nitrogenous products. The action of galactase in milk and cheese has been con- firmed by Freudenreich2 and Jensen,8 as well as by Ameri- can investigators, and this euzym is now quite generally accepted as the cause of the decomposition of the casein. Freudenreich admits that it plays a role in converting the casein into albumose and peptones, but that the lactic-acid bacteria are chiefly responsible for the further decomposi- tion of the nitrogen to amid form. Failure before to recognize the presence of galactase in milk is attributable t0 the fact that all attempts to secure sterile milk had been made by heating the same, in which case galactase was necessarily destroyed. A brief exposure at 176° F. is sufficient to destroy its activity, and even an exposure at lower temperatures weakens its action consider- ably, especially if the reaction of the medium is acid. This undoubtedly explains the contradictory results obtained in the ripening of cheese from pasteurized milk, such cheese occasionally breaking down in an abnormal manner. The results mentioned on page 172, in which cheese failed to ripen when treated with disinfectants, — experiments which were supposed at that time to be the foundation of the bacterial theory of casein digestion — are now explica- ble on an entirely different basis. In these cases the casein was not peptonized, because these strong disinfectants de- stroyed the activity of the enzyms as well as the bacteria. » Jensen, Cent f. Bact. II Abt., 3:752. • Freudenreich, Cent, f . Bakt., It Abt., 1900, 6:882. • Jensen, Ibid., 1900, 0:734. Bacteria in Cheese. 177 Influence of rennet on ripening. The addition of in- creased quantities of rennet extract facilitate the breaking down of the casein in cheese. This is due to the fact that such extracts always contain pepsin, the digestive enzym found in the stomach. This enzym exerts a digestive ef- fect on the casein of cheese, producing those decomposi- tion products (albumoses and higher peptones) that charac- terize peptic action. This effect is dependent upon the acidity of the milk, and does not become marked until there is about 0.3 per cent of lactic acid, which is about the amount developed in the cheddar process. The effect of the rennet then is to aid the galactase in the peptoniza- tion of the casein.1 Conditions determining: quality. In determining the qual- ity of cheese, several factors are to be taken into considera- tion. First and foremost is the flavor, which determines more than anything else the value of the product. This should be mild and pleasant, although with age the inten- sity of the same generally increases but at no time should it have any bitter, sour, or otherwise undesirable taste or FIG. 32. Showing texture of cheese cured at different temperatures. Right hand, 60° F., crumbly texture; left hand, 40° F., waxy texture. » 17 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat,, 1900, p. 103. 13 178 Dairy Bacteriology. aroma. Texture registers more accurately the physical nature of the ripening. The cheese should not be curdy and harsh, but should yield quite readily to pressure under the thumb, becoming on manipulation waxy and plastic instead of crumbly or mealy. Body refers to the openness or closeness of the curd particles, a close, compact mass being most desirable. The color of cheese should be even, not wavy, streaked or bleached. For a cheese to possess all of these characteristics in an optimum degree is to be perfect in every respect — a condi- tion that is rarely reached. So many factors influence this condition that the problem of making a perfect cheese becomes exceedingly difficult. Not only must the quality of the milk — the raw material to be used in the manufacture — be perfectly satisfactory, but the factory management while the curds are in the vat demands great skill and careful attention; and finally, the long period of curing in which variation in temperature or moisture conditions may seriously affect the quality, — all of these stages, more or less critical, must be successfully gone through, before the product reaches its highest state of development. It is of course true that many phases of this complex series of processes have no direct relation to bacteria, yet it frequently happens that the result attained is influ- enced at some preceding stage by the action of bac- teria in one way or another. Thus the influence of the acidity developed in the curds is felt throughout the whole life of the cheese, an over-development of lactic-acid bac- teria producing a sour condition that leaves its impress not only on flavor but texture. An insufficient development of acid fails to soften the curd-particles so as to permit of Bacteria in Cheese. 179 close matting, the consequence being that the body of the cheese remains loose and open, a condition favorable to the development of gas-generating organisms. Production Of flavor. The importance of flavor as deter- mining the quality of cheese makes it imperative that the nature of the substances that confer on cheese its peculiar aromatic qualities and taste be thoroughly understood. .It is to be regretted that the results obtained so far are not more satisfactory, for improvement in technique is hardly to be expected until the reason for the process is thoroughly understood. The view that is most generally accepted is that this most important phase of cheese curing is dependent upon bacterial activity, but the organisms that are concerned in this process have not as yet been satisfactorily determined. In a number of cases, different species of bacteria have been separated from milk and cheese that have the power of producing aromatic compounds that resemble, in some cases, the peculiar flavors and odors that characterize some of the foreign kinds of cheese; but an introduction of these into curd has not resulted in the production of the peculiar variety, even though the methods of manufacture and cur- ing were closely followed. The similarity in germ content in different varieties of cheese made in the same locality has perhaps a bearing on this question of flavor as related to bacteria. Of the nine different species of bacteria found in Emmenthaler cheese by Adametz, eight of them were also present in ripened Hauskase. If specific flavors are solely the result of specific bacterial action, it might natu- rally be expected that the character of the flora would differ. Some suggestive experiments were made by Babcockand Russell on the question of flavor as related to bacterial ISO Dairy Bacteriology. growth, by changing the nature of the environment in cheese by washing the curds on the racks with warm water. In this way the sugar and most of the ash were re- moved. Under such conditions the character of the bac- terial flora was materially modified. While the liquefying type of bacteria was very sparse in normal cheddar, they developed luxuriantly in the washed cheese. The flavor at the same time was markedly affected. The control ched- dar was of good quality, while that made from the washed curds was decidedly off, and in the course of ripening be- came vile. It may be these two results are simply coinci- dences, but other data1 bear out the view that the flavor was to some extent related to the nature of the bacteria developing in the cheese. This was strengthened materi- ally by adding different sugars to washed curds, in which case it was found that the flavor was much improved, while the more normal lactic-acid type of bacteria again became predominant. Ripening Of moldy Cheese. In a number of foreign cheeses, the peculiar flavor obtained is in part due to the action of various fungi which grow in the cheese, and there produce certain by-products that flavor the cheese. Among the most important of these are the Roquefort cheese of France, Stilton of England, and Gorgonzola of Italy. Roquefort cheese is made from goat's or cow's milk, and in order to introduce the desired mold, which is the ordi- nary bread-mold, Penicillium glaucum, carefully-prepared moldy bread-crumbs are added to the curd. At ordinary temperatures this organism develops too rapidly, so that the cheese to ripen properly must be kept at a low temperature. The town of Roquefort is situated i Bibcock and Russell, 18 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1901. Bacteria in Cheese. 181 in a limestone country, in a region full of caves, and it is in these natural caves that most of the ripening is done. These caverns are always very moist and have a tempera- ture ranging from 35° to 44° F., so that the growth of the fungus is retarded considerably. The spread of the mold throughout the ripening mass is also assisted in a mechan- ical way. The partially-matured cheese are run through a machine that pricks them full of small holes. These slender canals allow the mold organism to penetrate the whole mass more thoroughly, the moldy straw matting upon which the ripening cheese are placed helping to fur- nish an abundant seeding of the desired germ. When new factories are constructed it is of advantage to introduce this necessary germ in quantities, and the practice is sometimes followed of rubbing the walls and cellars of the new location with material taken from the old established factory. In this custom, developed in purely an empirical manner, is to be seen a striking illustration of a bacteriological process crudely carried out. In the Stilton cheese, one of the highly prized moldy cheeses of England, the desired mold fungus is introduced into the green cheese by exchanging plugs taken with a cheese trier from a ripe Stilton. Ripening of soft cheese. The type of ripening which takes place in the soft cheeses is materially different from that which occurs in the hard type. In many cases, the peptoiiizing action does not go on uniformly through- out the cheese, but is hastened on the exterior by the de- velopment of organisms that exert a solvent effect on the casein. For this reason, soft cheeses are usually made up in small sizes, so that this action may be facilitated. The bacteria that take part in this process are those that are 182 Dairy Bacteriology. able to form enzyms (similar in their action to tr37psinr galactase, etc.), and these soluble ferments gradually diffuse from the outside through the cheese. Most of these peptonizing bacteria are hindered in their growth by the presence of lactic acid, so that in many cases the appearance of the digesting organisms on the surface is delayed until the acidity of the mass is reduced to the proper point by the development of other organisms, prin- cipally molds, which prefer an acid substratum for their growth. In Brie cheese a blue coating of mold develops on the surface. In the course of a few weeks, a white felting ap- pears which later changes to red. This slimy coat below the mold layer is made up of diverse species of bacteria and fungi that are able to grow after the acid is reduced by the blue mold. The organisms in the red slimy coat act upon the casein, producing an alkaline reaction that is unfavor- able to the growth of the blue mold. Two sets of organ- isms are, therefore essential in the ripening process, one preparing the soil for the ferment that later produces the requisite ripening changes. As ordinarily carried on, the process is an empirical one, and if the red coat does not de- velop as expected, the maker resorts to all kinds of devices to bring out the desired ferment. The appearance of the right form is dependent, however, upon the proper reaction of the cheese, and if this is not suitable, the wished-for growth will not appear. INFLUENCE OF BACTERIA IN ABNORMAL CHEESE PROCESSES. The reason why cheese is more subject to abnormal fer- mentation than butter is because its high nitrogen content favors the continued development of bacteria for some time Bacteria in Cheese. 183 after it is made. It must be borne in mind, in considering the more important of these changes, that not all defective conditions in cheese are attributable to the influence of living organisms. Troubles frequently arise from errors in manufacturing details, as too prolonged cooking of curds, too high heating, or the development of insufficient or too much acid. Then again, the production of undesirable flavors or impairment in texture may arise from imperfect curing conditions. Our knowledge regarding the exact nature of these indefi- nite faults is as yet too inadequate to enable many of these undesirable conditions to be traced to their proper source; but in many cases the taints observed in a factory are due to the abnormal development of certain bacteria, capable of evolving unpleasant or even putrid odors. Most of them are seeded in the milk before it comes to the factory and are due to careless manipulation of the milk while it is still on the farm. Others gain access to the milk in the fac- tory, owing to unclean conditions of one sort or another. Sometimes the cheese-maker is able to overcome these taints by vigorous treatment, but often they pass on into the cheese, only to detract from the market value of the product. Most frequently these "off" flavors appear in cheese that are cured at too high temperatures, say above 65° F. "Gassy" fermentations in cheese. One of the worst and at the same time most common troubles in cheese-making is where the cheese undergoes a fermentation marked by the evolution of gas. The presence of gas is recognized by the appearance either of spherical or lens-shaped holes of various sizes in the green cheese; often they appear in the curd before it is put to press. Usually in this condi- 184 Dairy Bacteriology. tion the curds look as if they had been punctured with a pin, and are known as upin holey" curds. Where the gas holes are larger, they are known as "Swiss holes" from their resemblance to the normal holes in the Swiss pro- duct. If the development of gas is abundant, these holes are restricted in size. Often the formation of gas may be so intense as to cause the curds to float on the surface of the whey before they are removed. Such curds are known as "floaters" or "bloatars." If " gassy " curds are put to press, the abnormal fermen- tation may continue. The further production of gas causes the green cheese to " huff" or swell, until it may be con- siderably distorted as in Fig. 33. In such cases the texture Fio. 33. Cheese made from gassy milk. of the cheese is greatly injured, and the flavor is generally impaired. Such abnormal changes may occur at any season of the year, but the trouble is most common in summer, espe- cially in the latter part. This defect is less likely to occur in cheese that is well Bacteria in Cheese. 185 cheddared than in sweet curd cheese. When acidity is pro- duced, these gassy fermentations ar^ checked, and in good cheddar the body is so close and firm as not readily to per- mit of gaseous changes. In Swiss cheese, which is essentially a sweet curd cheese, these fermentations are very troublesome. Where large holes are formed in abundance (blahen), the trouble reaches its maximum. If the gas holes are very numerous and FIG. 34. Block Swiss cheese showing " gassy " fermentation. ' therefore small it is called a " nissler." Sometimes the normal " eyes " are even wanting when it is said to be itblind"ora"glasler." One method of procedure which is likely to cause trouble in Swiss factories is often produced by the use of sour, fermented whey in which to soak the natural rennets. Freudenreich and Steinegger J have shown that a much more uniform quality of cheese can be made with rennet extract if it is prepared with a starter made from a pure lactic fer- ment. The cause of the difficulty has long been charged to va- i Cent. f. Bakt. 1899, p. 14. 186 Dairy Bacteriology. rious sources, such as a lack of aeration, improper feeding, retention of animal gases, etc., but in all these cases it was nothing more than a surmise. Very often the milk does not betray any visible symptom of fermentation when re- ceived, and the trouble is not to be recognized until the process of cheese-making is well advanced. Studies from a biological standpoint have, howevert thrown much light on this troublesome problem; and it is now known that the formation of gas, either in the curd or after it has been put to press, is due entirely to the breaking down of certain elements, such as the sugar of milk, due to the influence of various living germs. This trouble is, then, a type fermentation, and is, therefore, much more widely distributed than it would be if it was caused by a single specific organism. These gas-produc- ing organisms are to be found, sparingly at least, in al- most all milks, but are normally held in check by the ordinary lactic species. Among them are a large number of the bacteria, although yeasts and allied germs are often present and are likewise able to set up fermentative changes of this sort. In these cases the milk-sugar is decomposed in such a way as to give off CO 9 and H, and in some casesr alcohol. According to Guillebeau, a close relation exists between those germs that are able to produce an infectious inflam- mation (mastitis) in the udder of the cow and some forms capable of gas evolution. Several outbreaks of " gassy " milk have been traced directly to animals suffering from an acute udder inflammation in which it has been shown that the organisms producing this disease were the direct cause of the gas production in the milk. If pure cultures of these gas-producing bacteria are added Bacteria in Cheese. 187 to perfectly sweet milk, it is possible to artificially produce the conditions in cheese that so frequently appear in prac- tice. Treatment of " pin-holey " curds. When this type of fermentation appears during the manufacture of the cheese, the maker can control it in part within certain limits. These methods of treatment are, as a rule, purely mechan- ical, as when the curds are piled and turned, and subse- quently ground in a curd mill. After the gas has been forced out, the curds are then put to press and the whole mats into a compact mass. Another method of treatment based upon bacteriological principles is the addition of a starter to induce the for- mation of acid. Where acid is developed as a result of the growth of the lactic-acid bacteria, the gas-producing species do not readily thrive. Another reason why acid aids in repressing the development of gas is that the curd particles are partially softened or digested by the action of the acid. This causes them to mat together more closely, and there is not left in the cheese the irregular mechan- ical openings in which the developing gas may find lodg- ment. Another method that is also useful with these curds is to employ salt. This represses gaseous fermentations, and the use of more salt than usual in making the cheese will very often restrain the production of gas. Tendency to form gas in Edam cheese is controlled by the addition of a starter prepared from slimy whey (lange wei) which is caused by the development of an acid-forming organism. Some have recommended the custom of washing the curds to remove the whey and the gas-producing bacteria contained therein. Care must be taken not to carry this 188 Dairy Bacteriology. too far, for the removal of the sugar permits taint-produc- ing organisms to thrive.1 The temperature at which the cheese is cured also mate- rially affects the development of gas. At high curing tem- peratures, gas-producing organisms develop rapidly; there- fore more trouble is experienced in summer than at other seasons. If milks which are prone to undergo " gassy " develop- ment are excluded from the general supply, it would be possible to eliminate the source of the entire trouble. To aid in the early recognition of such milks that are not ap- parently affected when brought to the factory, fermenta- tion or curd tests (p. 76) are of great value. The use of this test in the hands of the factory operator often enables him to detect the exact source of the trouble, which may frequently be confined to the milk delivered by a single patron. "Fruity" or "sweet" flavor. Not infrequently the product of a factory may acquire during the process of ripening what is known as a " sweet" or u fruity" flavor. This flavor resembles the odor of fermented fruit or the bouquet of certain kinds of wine. It has been noted in widely different sections of the country and its presence bears no relation to the other qualities of the cheese. The cause of this trouble has recently been traced2 to the pres- ence of various kinds of yeasts. Ordinarily yeasts are rarely present in good cheese, but in cheese affected with this trouble they abound. The addition of starters made from yeast cultures resulted in the production of the unde- sirable condition. 1 Babcock and Russell, 18 Kept. Wis. Expt. Stat., 1901. 3 Harding, Rogers and Smith, Bull. 183, N. Y. (Geneva) Expt. Stat., Dec., 1900. Bacteria in Cheese. 189 Mottled Cheese. The color of cheese is sometimes cut to that extent that the cheese presents a wavy or mottled ap- pearance. This condition is apt to appear if the ripening temperature is somewhat high, or larger quantities of ren- net used than usual. The cause of the defect is obscure, but it has been demonstrated that the same is communi- cable if a starter is made by grating some of this mottled cheese into milk. The bacteriology of the trouble has not yet been worked out, but the defect is undoubtedly due to an organism that is able to grow in the ripening cheese. It has been claimed that the use of a pure lactic ferment as a starter enables one to overcome this defect. Bitter Cheese. Bitter flavors are sometimes developed in cheese especially where the ripening process has not been fully completed, or where improper temperatures have been maintained for a considerable length of time. Several or- ganisms associated with this abnormal fermentation have been noted. Guillebeau1 isolated several forms from Emmenthaler cheese which he connected with udder inflammation that were able to produce a bitter substance in cheese. Von Freudenreich 2 has described a new form Micrococ- cus easel amari (micrococcus of bitter cheese) that was found in a sample of bitter cheese. This germ is closely related to Conn's micrococcus of bitter milk. It develops lactic acid rapidly, coagulating the milk and producing an intensely bitter taste in the course of one to three days. When milk infected with this organism is made into cheese, there is formed in a few days a decomposition prod- uct that imparts a marked bitter flavor to the cheese. 1 Guillebeau, Landw. Jahr., 1890, p. 27. 2 Freudenreich, Fuehl. Landw. Ztg., 43:361. 190 Dairy Bacteriology. It is peculiar that some of the organisms that are able to produce hitter products in milk do not retain this property when the milk is worked up into cheese. Putrid or rotten Cheese. Sometimes cheese undergoes a putrefactive decomposition in which the texture is pro- foundly modified and various foul smelling gases are evolved. These often hegin on the exterior as small cir- cumscrihed spots that slowly extend into the cheese, chang- ing the casein into a soft slimy mass. Then, again, the interior of the cheese undergoes this slimy decomposition. The soft varieties are more prone toward this fermentation than the hard, although the firm cheeses are by no means exempt from the trouble. The " Verlaufen " or " running" of lim burger cheese is a fermentation allied to this. It is where the inside of the cheese breaks down into a soft semi-fluid mass. In severe cases, the rind may even be ruptured, in which case the whole interior of the cheese flows out as a thick slimy mass, having sometimes a putrid odor. The conditions favoring this putrid decomposition are usually associated with an excess of moisture, and an abnormally low ripening temperature. Rusty Spot. This name is applied to the development of small yellowish-red or orange spots that are formed sometimes throughout the whole mass of cheddar cheese. A close inspection shows the colored points to be located along the edges of the curd particles. According to Hard- ing,1 this trouble is most common in spring and fall. The cause of the difficulty has been traced by Connell 8 to the development of a chromogenic bacterium, Bacillus ruden- sis. The organism can be most readily isolated on a po- i Bull. 183, N. Y. (Geneva) Expt. Stat., Dec. 1900. 'Connell, Bull. Canadian Dept. of Agr., 1897. Bacteria in Cheese. 191 tato surface rather than with the usual isolating media, agar or gelatin. Other pigment Changes. Occasionally, with the hard type of cheese, but more frequently with the softer foreign varieties, various abnormal conditions arise that are marked by the production of different figments in or on the cheese. More frequently these are merely superficial and affect only the outer layers of the cheese. Generally they are attrib- utable to the development of certain chromogenic organ- isms (bacteria, molds and yeasts), although occasionally due to other causes, as in the case of a blue discoloration sometimes noted in foreign cheese made in copper kettles.1 De Vries2 has described a blue condition that is found in Edam cheese. It appears first as a small blue spot on the inside, increasing rapidly in size until the whole mass is affected. This defect he was able to show was produced by a pigment-forming organism, B. cyaneo-fuscus. By the use of slimy whey (lange wei) this abnormal change was controlled. Moldy Cheese. With many varieties of cheese, especially some of the foreign types, the presence of mold on the ex- terior is not regarded as detrimental; in fact a limited de- velopment is much desired. In hard rennet cheese as cheddar or Swiss, the market demands a product free from mold, although it should be said that this condition is im- posed by the desire to secure a good-looking cheese rather than any injury in flavor that the mold causes. Mold spores are so widely distributed that, if proper temperature and moisture conditions prevail, these spores will always develop. At temperatures in the neighborhood of 40° P. » SchmOger, Milch Zeit., 1883, p. 483. 2 De Vries, Milch Zeit., 1888, pp. 861. 885. 192 Dairy Bacteriology. and below, mold growth is exceedingly slow, and often fructi- fication does not occur, the only evidence of the mold being the white, felt-like covering that is made up of the vegetat- ing filaments. The use of paraffin has been suggested as a means of overcoming this growth, the cheese being dipped at an early stage into melted paraffin. Recent experiments have shown that "off" flavors are apt to develop where cheese are paraffined directly from the press. Furthermore, the paraffin has a tendency to crack and separate from the rind, thus allowing molds to develop beneath the paraffin coat, where the conditions are ideal as to moisture, for evaporation is excluded and the air consequently saturated. The use of formalin (2$ solution) has been suggested as a wash for the outside of the cheese. This substance or sulfur is also applied in a gaseous form. Double bandag- ing is also resorted to as a means of making the cheese more presentable through the removal of the outer bandage. The nature of these molds has not been thoroughly studied as yet. • The ordinary blue-green bread mold, Penicillium glaucum, is most frequently found, but there are numerous other forms that appear, especially at low temperatures. Poisonous Cheese* Cases of acute poisoning arising from the ingestion of cheese are reported from time to time. Vaughan has succeeded in showing that this condition is due to the formation of a highly poisonous alkaloid which he has isolated, and which he calls tyrotoxicon.1 This poison- ous ptomaine has also been demonstrated in milk and other milk products, and is undoubtedly due to the development of various putrefactive bacteria that find their way into the milk. It seems quite probable that the development »Zeit. f. physiol. theinie, 10:146. Bacteria in Cheese. 193 of these toxic organisms can also go on in the cheese after it is taken from the press. Prevention or cheese .defects* The defective conditions previously referred to can rarely be overcome in cheese so as to improve the affected product, for they only be- come manifest in most cases during the later stages of the curing process. The only remedy against future loss is to recognize the conditions that are apt to prevail during the occurrence of an outbreak and see that the cheese are han- dled in such a way as to prevent a recurrence of the diffi- culty. Many abnormal and undesirable results are incident to the manufacture of the product, such as u sour " or 41 mealy " cheese, conditions due to the development of too much acid in the milk or too high a " cook." These are under the direct control of the maker and for them he alone is responsible. The development of taints due to the growth of unwelcome bacteria that have gained access to the milk while it is yet on the farm are generally be- yond the control of the cheese maker, unless they are so pronounced as to appear during the handling of the curds. If this does occur he is sometimes able, through the inter- vention of a starter or by varying some detail in making, to handle the milk in such a way as to minimize the trou- ble, but rarely is he able to eliminate it entirely. One of the most strenuous duties which the maker must perform at all times is to point out to his patrons the ab- solute necessity of their handling the milk in such a way as to prevent the introduction of organisms of a baleful type. 13 INDEX. Acid, effect of, on churning, 137; in butter-making, 138. Acid test, 51. Aeration of milk, 59. Aerobic bacteria, 7. Alcoholic fermentation in milk, 72. Anaerobic bacteria, 7. Animal, influence of, on milk infec- tion, 42. Animal odor, 56. Anthrax, 94. Antiseptics, 9, 88. Aroma, of butter, 140. Bacillus: definition of, 2. acidi lactici, 64; cyaneo-fuscus, 188; cyanogenus, 74; foetidus lactis, 157; lactis aerogenes, 65; lactis erythrogenes, 74; lactis saponacei, 67; lactis viscosus, 71; nobilis, 162, 174; prodigiosus, 74; rudensis, 188; synxanthus, 75 ; tuberculosis, 84. Bacteria: on hairs, 34; kinds in milk, 64; in barn air, 42; in milk pails, 27; in butter, 154; classification of, 4; in cheese, 160; culture of, 17; in cream, 128; discovery of, 1; external con- ditions affecting, 8; form of, 2; in butter, 142; in butter- making, 127; in centrifuge slime, 40; in fore milk, 30; in rennet, 163; in sepa- rator slime, 40; manure, 33; num- ber of, in milk, 49. Distribution of: milk of American cities, 49; European cities, 49; in re- lation to cheese, 168. Of disease: anthrax, 94; cholera, 98; diphtheria, 99; lockjaw, 94; toxic, 100; tuberculosis, 84; typhoid fever, 98. Methods of study of: culture, 15; culture media, 13; isolation, 14. Bitter butter, 158; cheese, 189; milk, 72. Bloody milk, 74. Blue cheese, 191; milk, 74. Bovine tuberculosis, 84. Brie cheese, 182. Butter: bacteria in, 154; bitter, 158; "cowy," 157; fishy, 159; lardy, 157; moldy, 158; mottled, 156; oily, 158; putrid, 156; rancid, 155; tal- lowy, 157; turnip flavor in, 157. Making: aroma, 140; flavor in, 140; pure culture, 143; in ripening of cream, 136. Butyric acid fermentation, 69. By-products of factory, methods of pre- serving, 25. Casease, 68 Caseone, 68. Centrifugal force, cleaning milk by, 39, 105. Cheese: bacterial flora of, 168: bitter, 189; blue, 187; Brie, 182; Edam, 72, 162; Emmen thaler, 185; flavor of, 179; gassy fermentations in, 183; Gorgonzola, 180; molds on, 191; mottled, 189; "nissler," 185; poi- sonous, 192; putrid, 190; ripening of moldy, 180; ripening of soft, 181; Koquefort, 180; rusty spot in, 188; Stilton, 180; Swiss, 185. Making and curing: chemical changes in curing, 166; influence of temper- ature on curing, 169; influence of 196 Index. rennet, 177; physical changes in curing, 165; prevention of defects, 193; starters in, 161; temperature in relation to bacterial influence, 169. Theories of curing: digestive, 173; galactase, 175, 177; lactic acid, 174 Chemical changes in cheese-ripening, 166. Chemical disinfectants in milk: bleach- ing powder, 81; corrosive subli- mate, 81; formalin, 80; sulfur, 80; whitewash, 81 ; vitriol, 81. Chemical preservatives, 80. Children, milk for, 45. Cholera in milk, 98. Coccus, definition of, 2. Cold, influence on bacteria, 8, 47. Contamination of milk through disease germs, 95, 191. Coolers, 181. Cooling milk, 123. Cream, bacterial changes in, 135; me- chanical causes for bacteria in, 135; pasteurized, 118; restoration of con- sistency of pasteurized, 119. Ripening of, 136; advantage of pure cultures in, 144; by natural start- ers, 142; characteristics of pure cultures in, 145; objections to pure cultures in, 146; principles of pure cultures in, 143; propagation of pure cultures, 151; home-made starters in, 146. Creaming methods, 134. Curd test, 76. Dairy utensils a source of contamina- tion, 21. Diarrhoeal diseases, 100. Digesting bacteria, 67. Digestibility of heated milk, lit Diphtheria, 99. Dirt in milk, 34. Dirt, exclusion of, 36. Disease germs in milk, 95; effect of heat on, 91 ; origin of, 83. Disinfectants, 9: carbolic acid, 81; chlo- ride of lime, 81; corrosive subli- mate, 81; formalin, 80; sulfur, 80; vitriol salts, 81 ; whitewash, 79. Disinfectants in milk: alkaline salts, 106; boracic acid, 106; formalin, 106; preservaline, 107; salicylic acid, 106. Domestic pasteurizing apparatus, 125. Drugs, taints in milk due to, 5(5. Drying, effect of, 8. Edam cheese, 72, 162. Emmen thaler cheese, 185. Endospores, 3. Enzyms, 10. Factory by-products, 25; treatment of, 25. Farrington alkaline tablet, 52. Fecal bacteria, effect of, on butter, 35. Fermentation: In cheese: gassy, 183. In milk: alcoholic, 72; bitter, 72; blue, 74; butyric. 69; digesting, 67; slimy, 69; gassy, 66; kephir, 72; koumiss, 72; lactic acid, 63; lange- wei, 72; red, 74; ropy, 69; slimy, 69; soapy, 73; souring, 63; sweet curdling, 67; treatment of, 75. Tests, 76; Gerber's, 76; Walther's, 76; Wisconsin curd, 76. Filtration of milk, 104. Fishy butter, 159. Flavor: of butter, 140; of cheese, 179. Foot and mouth disease, 93. Fore milk, 29. Formaldehyde, 80. Formalin, 80. Fruity flavor hi cheese, 188. Index. 197 Galactase in cheese, 175, Gassy fermentations: in cheese, 183; in milk, 66; in Swiss cheese, 167, Glasler, 185. Gorgonzola cheese, 180. Growth of bacteria, essential condi- tions for, 4. Hair, bacteria on, 34. Heat, influence on bacterial growth, 8. Heated .milk: characteristics of, 109; action toward rennet, 112; body, 110; digestibility, 111; fermentative changes, 111; flavor, 110; hydrogen peroxid test in, 23; Storch's test, 23. Hygienic milk, bacteria in, 44. Infection of milk: animal, 82; dairy utensils, 8; fore milk, 29; milker, 35. Isolation of bacteria, methods of, 14. Kephir, 72. Koumiss, 72. Lactic acid: fermentation in milk, 63; theory in cheese-curing, 1?4. Lange-wei, 72. Lardy butter, 157,, Light, action on bacteria, 9. Manure, bacteria in, 33. Methods: of isolation, 14; culture, 15. Micrococcus casei amari, 187. Microscope, use of, 17. Milk: a bacterial food medium, 19; bac- teria in, 48. Disease organisms in: anthrax, 94; cholera, 98; diphtheria, 99; foot and mouth disease, 93 ; poisonous, 101; ptomaines, 101; scarlet fever, 99; tuberculosis, 84; typhoid fever, 98. Contamination, 21: from air, 40; from animal odors, 55; dirt, 32; distinc- tion between bacterial and non- bacterial, 58; fore milk, 28; infec- tion in factory, 59; milker, 35; rel- ative importance of various kinds, 42; utensils, 21. Milk fermentations: alcoholic, 72; bit- ter, 72; bloody, 74; blue, 74; buty- ric acid, 69; gassy, 66, 167; kephir, 61; koumiss, 67; lactic acid, 63; red, 72; ropy, 69; slimy, 69, soapy, 74; souring, 63; sweet curdling, 67; tests for, 76; treatment of, 70; yel- low, 70. Milk, heated: action towards rennet, 112; digestibility, 111; flavor of, 110; fermentative changes in, 111; hy- drogen peroxid test, 110. Milking machines, influence of, on germ content, 36. Milk preservation: chemical agents in, 106; condensation, 107; freezing, 108; heat, 108; pasteurization, 112; sterilization, 113. Milk-sugar as bacterial food, 19. Mold, in butter, 158; in cheese, 191. Mottled cheese, 189. " Nissler " cheese, 185. Odors, direct absorption of, in milk, 55. Oidium lactis, 159. Oily butter, 158. Parasitic bacteria, 5. Pasteurization of milk: acid test in, 123; bacteriological study of, 117, 133, 149; for butter, 147; for cheese, 162; for direct use, 113; of skim milk, 25; details of, 112; tempera- ture and time limit in, 114. Pasteurizing apparatus: continuous flow, 127; coolers, 131; Danish, 149; domestic, 125; intermittent flow, 129; Potts, 131; Reid, 150; Russell, 130. Pathogenic bacteria in milk, 82. 198 Index. Penicillium glaucum, 159, 180, 190. Pepsin, 10. Physical changes in cheese-ripening, 165. Poisonous bacteria: in cheese, 192; in milk, 100, 101. Preservaline, 167. Preservation of milk: by exclusion, 103; chemical agents, 106; condensing, 107; filtration, 104; freezing , 108; pasteurization, 112; physical agents, 107; sterilization, 112. Ptomaine poisoning, 101. Pure cultures, 15. Pure culture starters: advantages of 144; characteristics of, 145; home- made cultures compared with, 146; propagation of, 157. Putrid cheese, 190; butter, 156. Rancidity in butter, 155. Red milk, 74. Rennet: action in heated milk, 112; bacteria in, 163; influence of, on cheese-ripening, 177. Restoration of consistency in pasteur- ized cream, 119. Ripening of cheese: moldy cheese, 180; soft cheese, 181. Of cream, 136; artificial starters, 143; natural starters, 142; principles of pure culture starters in, 143. Ropy milk, 69. Roquefort cheese, 180. Rusty spot in cheese, 190. Rusty cans: effect of, on acidity, 53. Sanitary milk, 44. Sanitary pails, 39. Saprophytic bacteria, 5. Scarlet fever in milk, 99. Separator slime: bacteria in, 40; tuber- cle bacillus in, 93. Size of bacteria, 2. Skim-milk, a distributor of disease, 96. Slimy milk, 69. Soapy milk, 74. Soft cheese, ripening of, 186. Sources of contamination in milk: barn air, 40; dairy utensils, 21; dirt from animals, 32; factory cans, 27; fore- milk, 29; milker, 35. Souring of milk, 63. Spirillum, definition of, 2. Spores, 3. Starters: in cheese-making, 161; in butter-making, 142; propagation of, 151; pure cultures in cream- ripening, 143. Sterilization of milk, 112. Streptococcus Hollandicus, 72, 162. Stilton cheese, 181. Starch's test, 23. Sulfur as a disinfectant, 81. Sweet curdling milk, 68. Sweet flavor in cheese. 188. Swiss cheese, 177; gassy fermentations in, 185. Taints, absorption of, 55. Taints, bacterial vs. physical, 58. Taints in milk, absorption of, 55. Taints, use of starters in overcoming, 79. Taints in butter: putrid, 156; rancidity, 155; turnip flavor, 157. Tallowy butter, 157. Temperature: effect on bacterial de- velopment, 6, 46; effect of low, 108; effect of high, 108; and time limit in milk pasteurization, 114. Tests for milk: fermentation, 76; Storch's, 23. Theories in cheese-curing: digestive, 171; galactase, 175, 177; lactic acid, 174. Trypsin, 10. Index. 199 Tubercle bacillus: in milk, 90; in sep- arator slime, 93; thermal death limits, 115. Tuberculin test, 86. Tuberculosis, bovine, 84. Turnip flavor in butter, 157. Typhoid fever, 98. Tyrogen, 162. Tyrotoxicon, 101, 190. Udder: milk germ-free in, 19; infection of, 38; washing, 37; tuberculosis in, 87. Viscogen, 119. Water: as a source of infection, 61. Whey vats, pollution of, 23; method of preserving, 125; treatment of, in vats, 123. Whitewash, 81. Wisconsin curd test, 76. Yeasts: alcoholic ferments in milk, 72; kephir, 72; fruity flavor in cheese, 186. 92011 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY