iplete Coloured
NUMERICAL INDEX AND KEY TO THE PLAN.
e numerical order of the following list agrees with the numbered paragraphs in .des's Oxford Guide, and with the fiarnres on the small Key-Pxah opposite. For ALPHABETICAL INDEX see the two pases following the Title-page.
Page. No. Page. Paes.
donian Theatre ... 2 I 24 Oriel College 50 52aWycliffe Hall 1
molean Museum ... 5 , 25 Corpus Christi College 52 ; 52b Lady Margaret Hi
nitv School 7 38-7 Merton College ... 54 i 52c High School for Girls ?1
vocation House ... 9 23—31 Christ Church 60— GS 53 Radcliffe Infirmarv ... -1
Old Schools ... 9 29 The Cathedral 61 53aSomerville Hall ...
leian Library .. 11 I 32 St. Aldate's Church ... 70 536St. Aloysius (R.C.) Ch. 82 ■endoti Building ... 13 33 Pembroke Collesre ... 7 ilea' Church ... 82
ian Institute 13 34 Post Office ... " 71 55 St. John's College
Stephen's House ... 14 35 Town Hall Buildings... 71 56 Taylor Institution, &c. S5
lham College H 36 Carfax Church 7. -7 Randolph Hotel 38
versity Museum ...15 37 Ne-y Road Chapel ...73 58 Martyrs* Memorial .. 88
le College 18 38 New Inn Hall (extinct) 73 59 St. M.Maedalen Church 90
tford College 21 39 St. Peter-le- Bailey Ch. 74
.-College 21 40 WeslevMemorialChapel 74
Peter-in-East Ch.... 25 41 Methodist Free Church 75 Edmund Hall ... 26 +2 Union Society's Rooms 75
en's College 2fi ' 43 Conerre»ational Church 76
v Exam. Schools ... 27 13aHigh School for Boys 76 vwell Church, &c. 2 Theatre ...... 77
77
zdalen Coll. School 29
anic Garden? SB
rdalen College ... 31 versitv College ... 38
Souls College 40
Marv's Church ... 48 Icliffe Lib.(Camera) 46 senose College ... 47 Marv Hall 49
44 St. George's Church
15 Worcester College
16 Scotch Church ... 47 St. Paul's Church 18 University Press... 1!' St. Barnabas Church 50 RadcliffeObservatorv
:'hilip& James Ch. 80 52 The Convent 80
60 Balliol Colletre ...
61 Trinity College ...
62 Exeter College ... G:i Jesus Coll.-
•In College .. I luirch
66 St. Michael's Church 1, 99
67 Probate Court 100
68-9 Conutv Hall & Castle 100
70 Countv Police Station 1<X>
71 St. Thomas's Church... 100
72 St. Ebbe'a Church ... 101
73 Commercial Rd. Chapel 101
74 Holy Trinity Church... I'd.
75 Mansfield Collesre .. 101 7t> Manchester New Coll. 102
HOURS OF ADMISSION TO CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST.
PLACE. HOURS Ol .
All Souls College Chapel (in Term) 12 to I, 2 to 4
Ashmolean Museum 1 1 ...to... 4
Bodleian Camera (Radcliffe Library) 10 ... to ... 10
Bodleian Library (usually) 10 ... to ... 5
Botanic Gardens (in summer) 6 to 6, Stat. 11 to 6
Christ Church Cathedral 11 to I, 2j4 t
Christ Church Hall 9 . . . to . . . 6
Christ Church Library & Picture Gallery n to I, 2 to 4
City Public Library S ... to ... 10
Divinity School and Convocation House 9 to 4 or 6
Examination Schools (New) 9
Exeter College Chapel ...(in Term time) 1
Indian Institute, Museum and Library... 10 Keble College Chapel (till $}4 in summer)
— Hall and Library (iotoi2inLongVac.) 2 .
Magdalen College Chapel 11 .
Merton College Chapel n .
New College Chapel (closes at 3 on Sat.) 1 1 to
Radcliffe Library, in the Museum 10 .
Sheldonian Theatre (closes at 4 in winter) 10 .
Trinity College Chapel (in summer Term) 9 .
University Galleries ...(closed in August) 12 . University Museum (and Pitt Rivers) ...' 2 .
... to ... to to 4 10 to 12,
to
to to
to to to to to
... 4
• 4 or 6 2 to 4
•• 4
-.I2<2
•■ 5 2 to 4
•• 4
.. 6
.. 6
•• 4
•• 4
ADMISSION.
Free.
3d-
3d-
3d- Free. Free.
2d.
3d- Free.
3d-
3d- Free. Free. Free.
6d. Fre</. Fnfe. Free. Free.
3d-
Free.
id., free Sat.
Free.
NOTE ON EXETER COLLEGE CHAPEL.
SINCE our description of this Chapel (on page 95) was printed, an important alteration has been made in the hours of admission. The Chapel is now open to visitors in term-time from 1 till 4 p.m. only, instead of from 10 till 4.
The decoration of the Chapel was completed on the 19th of May, by the placing on the blank space of south wall, close to the apse, of a magnificent piece of Tapestry, representing the Adoration of the Magi. The work was designed by Mr. E. Burne-Jones, Hon. D.C.L., A.R.A., and executed by Mr. William Morris, M.A., both of them Honorary Fellows of this college. The subject is treated with great originality. Into the presence of the Holy Mother and Child the three visitants are entering with costly gifts. One is represented as an Eastern monarch, another as a mailed warrior, and the third as a dark-hued African. Between them and the Holy Babe is an Angel holding the mystic star which has guided them to the Infant's feet ; while Joseph occupies a retiring position on the left of the scene. The figures are life size, and the admirable expression of their faces, the marvellous intricacy and beauty of their apparel, with the richness and variety of colour throughout, combine in forming a piece of work unequalled in modern times ; and Exeter College may well be proud of such a splendid addition to the rich and harmonious decoration of this beautiful Chapel.
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PREFACE TO SIXTEENTH EDITION.
f*HE Fifteenth Edition of this Handbook, issued in June, 1889, numbering £ three thousand copies, has been entirely exhausted, making a total sale of 32,000 copies. No higher testimony could be given to the public appreciation of its utility. Encouraged by the continuous and increasing suc- cess of the work, we have again subjected it to thorough revision, and have made such alterations and additions as are needed to keep pace with the constant growth of the City and University.
The Shilling Edition of "Alden's Oxford Guide " contains a new Coloured Map of the University and City, corrected to the present date ; also an Appendix entitled " Old Oxford," with some interesting particulars relating to the ancient streets, gates, fortifications, &c, contributed by the late Major-Gen. GlBrffes Rigaud, Hon. M.A., Magdalen College.
The visitor will save himself time and trouble by a careful perusal of the short Introduction (next to the Alphabetical Index), before proceeding to the
pages which follow.
P * E. C. A.
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3J> Corn-Market Street, June, i8go.
*,* For opinions of visitors, antiquaries, and the press, see "Testimonials" at the end.
Tram Cars now run at Penny Fares on the following routes, to and from "Carfax": — 1. The Railway Stations, via Queen-street; 2. Cowley-road, via High-street ; 3. Banbury-road, via St. Giles'-street ; 4. Kingston-road, via Beaumont-street; 5. New Hincksey, via St. Aldate's-street.
■SfiKi^as
S™CK ANNEX
rj/ic number in the first column gives the position of each place on the Plan, and its order in the Guide ■ and that in the second column indicates the page containing the description.]
No. "
(Eollcgrs anU Isalls:
All Souls Balliol - Brasenose Christ Church- Corpus Christi Exeter - Hertford Jesus Keble - Lincoln - Magdalen Merton - New Coll. Oriel Pembroke Queen's - St. John's Trinity - University Wadham Worcester
New Inn Hall (extinct) St. Alban Hall (extinct) St. Edmund Hall - St. Mary Hall Charsley's Hall Turrell's Hall Wyclifie Hall St. Stephen's House Lady Margaret Hall Somerville Hall Mansfield College Manchester New Coll
No.
- 19
- 60
- 22
■ 28-31
- 25
- 62
- II
- 63
- 10
- 64
- 17
- 26,27
- 12
- 24
- 33
- 14
- 55
- 61
4S 33
27 23
! 52"
j S- 7*
Li* 5*
I* 75
Page. 40 91 47 60
52 95 21 96 18 97 31 54 21
50 70 26 83 93 38 H 77 73 58 26
49 17 3i 81
14
81
81
101
102
CnhuK&es antr ©hapcls: No. Page. Cathedral, Ch. Ch. - 29 61
All Saints - - - 65 98
Holy Cross, Holywell - 14^19,29
Holy Trinity - - - 74
St. Aldate - - - 32
St. Barnabas - - - 49
St. Clement -
St. Ebbe
St. Frideswide
St. George-the-Martyr
St. Giles
St. John Baptist
St. John-the-Evangelist
St. Margaret -
St. Martin (Carfax) -
St. Mary-the- Virgin
St. Mary Magdalen
SS. Mary and John
St. Michael -
St. Paul
St. Peter-in-the-East
St. Peter-le-Bailey -
SS. Philip and James
St. Thomas-the-Martyr
St. Aloysius (R.C.)
Baptist Chapel, New Rd
Commercial Rd.
Brethren's Meeting Room Congregational Church Methodist Free Church Society of Friends - Wesley Memorial Chapel Wesleyan Chapel, Walton-st.
72
44 54 26
36 20
59
66
47
13
39
51
7i
53*
37
73
43 41 46 40
101
70
79
3i
101
100
77 82
54 3i 79 72 43 90
3i
i,99 78 25 74 80
100 81
73 101
73 76
75 78 74 79
N.B.— Complete lists of the Heads of Colleges and Halls, Terms, Professors, and chief officers of the University, and the Ministers of the City Churches and Chapels, will be found in Alden's Oxford Almanack, published annually, price id. [General Index overleaf.
207869
Vi. General Index. (For Colleges and Churches, see preceding page.)
No. Page- Addison's Walk - - 17 37 Anthropological Museum 9 17 Arundel Marbles - - 56 87 Ashmolean Museum - 2 5
Bacon (Lord) Statue of - 9 16 Bird's-Eye View from Sheldonian 3
"Camera" 47
Bocardo, North Gate - 1,99
Bodleian Library - 6 11
Botanic Gardens - - 16 29 Broad Walk, Ch. Ch. - 28 59 Camera Bodleiana - - 21 46 Carfax - - - - X 71 Castle, The - - • 69 100 Cemeteries : Holywell - 14^ 19,29 Jericho and Osney - 79, 100 Christ Church Meadow - 28 59,69 City Public Library - 35 71
Clarendon Building - 7 13
Press - - 48 78
Laboratory - 9 17
Convent of Holy Trinity - 52 80 Convocation House - 4 9
Corn Exchange - - 35 71 County Hall and Prison 68,70 100 Cranmer, Ridley, Sec, pages 2,9,44,90 Divinity School ATo. 3 7
Encamia, or Commemoration 5
Examination Schools - 14a 27 Fox's (Bp.) Pastoral Staff 25 53 Frewen Hall - 74
Frideswide, Saint pages 61,63,74,100 Guy Fawkes' Lantern No. 2 7
Gymnasium ... 98
Henry VIIL's Sword - 2 6
High School for Boys - 43a 76
Girls - S2C 8l
High Street - 38 Indian Institute - *ja 13 Isis, The, and the Barges 59 Kettel Hall ... 95 Laud's Porch, St. Mary's 20 45 Liberal Hall ... 76 Magdalen Bridge - - 30,35 Cloisters - - 33,36
No. Page. Magdalen, May Day at (frontisp.) 37
Open Air Pulpit 32
Magdalen Coll. School - 15 29
Markets, The - - - 98
Martyrs' Memorial - - 58 88
Military College, Cowley 31
Neighbourhood of Oxford 103
Nuneham Cottages - 103 Parks and "Mesopotamia" 19,29
Penitentiary ... 29
Picture Gallery - - 6 12
"Pig Market," The - 7
Pitt Rivers Museum - 9 17
Police Stations - - 70.98,100
Port Meadow - 80
Post Office - - - 34 71
Probate Court - - 67 100
Physiological Laboratory 9 17
Pusey Memorial House - 82
Radcliffe Infirmary - - 53 81
Lib. (Camera) - 21 46
(Museum) - 9 17
Observatory - 50 80
Railway Stations - - 99
Randolph Hotel - - 57 87-8
Ruskin Drawing School - 56 88
" Salvation Army" Barracks 73
Schools, The Old - - 5 9-10
The New - - 14a 27
School of Art - - - 88
Sheldonian Theatre - 1 2
Bird's-eye view from 2-4
St. Giles' Street - - 82
St. Stephen's House - 70 14
Taylor Institution - - 56 85
Theatre, The New - - 43^ 77
Town Hall Buildings - 35 71 Tramways, see back of Title.
Union Society's Rooms - 42 75
University Galleries - 56 86
Museum - 9 15
Observatory 9 17
Wesley, John and Charles 73,95 Wycliffe, John pages 27,44,52,54,97
Wykeham's Staff & Jewel 12 24
** The lisitor is recommended to READ these five pages before proceeding.
ARMS OF the CITY and UNIVERSITY.
[Route.— Use of Key .Plan. — Free Sights. —College Services, &c]
,/^HIS little Handbook is designed to fill the place of an intelligent companion to the visitor in his tour through Oxford ; giving concise yet exact descriptions of all places of interest, with allusions to their chief historical and biographical associations, and brief notes on salient points of architecture ; devoting a larger proportion of time to the more note- worthy objects. Thus, without attempting to exhaust the innumerable subjects suggested at almost every step, it has been our endeavour to enable the visitor to gain, and to retain after even the shortest sojourn, a well-defined impression of our ancient and renowned University city.
lg^" The Route adopted may be easily traced by following the numerical order on the Key-Plan, which is so placed inside the cover as to be available for constant reference ; corresponding numbers being attached to the description of places in the Guide. This system renders it exceedingly easy for the visitor to follow the prescribed route (which is recommended), while it also enables him readily to take any independent course he may please, according to the longer or shorter time at his disposal. Experience has proved that this simple arrangement is of much more real service than any complicated and confusing attempt to suggest a number of alternative routes.
tigf The use of the Key-Plan will be much facilitated by remembering that, as in a map, the North is at the top and the South at the bottom. There ought not to be the slightest difficulty in determining one's whereabouts in a city like Oxford, with its numerous Churches and Collegiate Chapels all standing due East and West; and if, bearing this in mind, the visitor will note our frequent references to the points of the compass (N.E.S.W ) he cannot possibly mistake his way. In the larger Map, at the end of the shilling and half-crown editions, the route is distinctly coloured. [p.t.o.
viii. Free Sights.— Hours of Service.— Advice for a "Flying Visit."
tflf* Free Sights. — We desire to make it clear to visitors that, as a general rule, what is most worth seeing in Oxford is freely accessible to them. Not in- frequently a group of strangers may be observed peeping with timid gaze through the gateway of some College, fearful lest in taking a step across the threshold they should be guilty of trespass, and little dreaming that the beauties beyond the portals are ■ theirs to enjoy.' Let it be remembered, then, that the quad- rangles and river-side walks of Magdalen (17) and Christ Church (28-31),* the Botanic Gardens (16), the charming gardens of New College (12), St. John's (55), Worcester (45), Trinity (61), Wadham (8), Exeter (62) (from 2 to 7 p.m.), and the extensive walks in and beyond the New Parks {page 19), are by the kind- ness of the authorities open free to visitors. Among other places of interest open free during the hours mentioned in the Guide, are Christ Church Cathedral (29), and the Chapels of Keble College (10), New College (12), Magdalen (17), All Souls (19), Merton (26J, Trinity (61), and Exeter (62) ; the University Museum (9), the new Indian Institute (7^7), and the City Public Library (35) ; while at the Bodleian Library and Camera (6,21), the Sheldonian Theatre(i), Ashmolean Museum (2), Divinity School (3), University Galleries (56), New Schools (14a), Christ Church Hall, Library, Picture Gallery, and " Great Tom " (see pages 65-8), the Hall and Library of Keble College (10), &c, a very trifling fee only is demanded. f In the Colleges, no objection is offered to a quiet walk through the quadrangles ; but should an inspection of the interior of Chapels (with the exceptions above mentioned), Halls, or Libraries be desired, application should be made to the gate porter, who will expect a small gratuity.
Jgg° The hours of Diviue Service at the College Chapels accessible to strangers are given on pages 23 (New Coll.), 34 (Magdalen), 56 (Merton), and 65 (Ch. Ch.)
tggT If the visitor has hut a very short time to spare, his best course will be
to run through {he first half of this book, seeing No. 1, 12, 17, 20, 21, without
fail ; and then if possible to get a look at No. 26, 28 to 31. Another important
group— 55 to 62 inclusive-lies within easy distance of the chief hotels. It is,
however, extremely difficult to suggest any course suitable for a flying visit to such
a city as Oxford, whose store of varied attractions demands and will repay the
sustained attention of many days. The Table of Hours facing the Key-Plan will
aid in economising time. (For Tram-car arrangements, see back of Title-page. )
• These figures within parentheses, wherever occurring in the following pages, refer to the numbers on the Plan, and to their corresponding paragraphs in the Guide, t See the Time-Table on the first page of this book, facing the Key-Plan.
SIXTEENTH]
J Jlltirn's cDxtnit! cToiii&p
[EDITION.
^€>
HE visitor is recommended to take as his starting-point the
central spot (marked O on the Key-Plan which will be
found at the beginning of this book),
where the main thoroughfare running
north and south is crossed by the line
of George-street and Broad-street from
west to east. This point being midway
between the Randolph and Clarendon
Hotels, strangers staying at either of
those well-known hostelries will find it
the most convenient starting-place for
the tour through the city in which we
now propose to conduct them.
[This starting-point is most directly reached from the Railway Stations via Hythe Bridge-street and George-street. Should the visitor, however, make his entrance into the city by the Tramway route, via Park- End-street, New- toad, and Queen-street (see Plan\ he can alight at "Carfax," marked X in Plan. From Carfax a walk of two minutes down Corn-Market-street, due N., will bring him to the point above mentioned, which is quite easily recognisable as lying just beyond St. Michael's Church, whose plain square Saxon tower is the first prominent object which strikes the eye looking northward from Carfax.]
Here we find ourselves at once on historic ground. A few yards southward, the North Gate of the city* formerly spanned the
* See illustration. Further particulars are eri^en in the chapter, " Old Oxford," appended to our Shilling Edition. " Bocardo Printing Works," whence this Guiae is issued, occupy the site of the bastion on the right of the view, opposite.St. Michael's tower.
BOCARDO. NORTH GATE.
89o.]
Alden's Oxford Guide.
road, close to the ancient tower of St. Michael's Church, which still remains (see 66*). From the window of " Bocardo," — as the prison over the gateway was called — Cranmer is said to have witnessed the martyrdom of Ridley and Latim _r, which took place outside the N. wall, i6th Oct. 1555. We shall presently pass the scene of their sufferings, marked by a flat cross in the roadway opposite the S. front of Balliol College (60), as we walk down Broad street. The elegant Memorial Cross erected in honour of the Martyrs will be visited in due course, or can be inspected at once if desired (see 58).
To the marvels and beauties of Oxford the best introduction is to be gained by a bird's-eye view from some central and lofty position, whence the visitor may survey the whole city at a glance, and make his choice of the objects to which he will give closer inspection at his leisure. This choice can readily be exercised ; for although for convenience' sake a certain route is prescribed in the following pages, yet by the arrangement of attaching to each place on the Key- Plan a consecutive number corresponding with the description, the visitor is enabled with perfect ease to take any independent course he may prefer. On the other hand, one who has but an hour to spend in Oxford cannot make a better use of that hour than by taking a comprehensive survey such as we now suggest.
A Bird's-Eye View may be obtained either from the Radcliffe Library (No. 21) or the Sheldonian Theatre (No. 1). The latter affords a post of observation which is high and dry, and easy of access in all weathers.
For this reason, as well as others which might be adduced, we decide to begin our walk by starting at once in an eastward direction down Broad-street (see Plan). On our way we pass two or three noteworthy places (Nos. 60, 61), which we must reserve for future inspection, our present object being to reach the
1. Sheldonian Theatre,! and mount the easy flight of stairs leading to the cupola on its roof. The view from this octagonal
* The figures within parentheses throughout this work refer to the consecutive numhers prefixed to the various places described, and correspond with their respective positions on the Key-Plan.
+ The Sheldouian is approached from Broad-street through a small doorway between the fourth and lift; been grotesque stone busts cm pedestals; and the building
is entered bj a door on the East side (to the left of our engraving on paye 3). Open in summer from 10 till 6, in winter from 10 till 4; fee. 3d.
Bird's-Eye View from the Sheldonian Theatre. 3
chamber presents a beautiful panorama which will surprise and delight the visitor who gains from it his first impression of the city of pinnacles and groves. We will briefly describe the scene from each of the eight windows, advising the visitor to trace the places by their numbers on the Plan and the Key which faces it.
From theyfrj/ window on the right hand at top of staircase, looking south- ward, we have an unbroken view of academic and ecclesiastical buildings, the most prominent of which are the grand dome of the Radcliffe Library (21) and the church of St. Mary-the-Virgin (20) ; beyond these are the tower of Merton College (26), the elms of the Broad Walk, Christ Church Cathedral (29) tower and spire, new Belfry Tower, Dining Hall (30), and "Tom" Tower (31), partly hidden by the steeple of All Saints' Church (65) ; while more in the foreground may be traced the roofs of the Bodleian Library (6), Biasenose (22), Lincoln (64), and Jesus (63) Colleges. From the second window to the right, begin- ning with the spire of All Saints' Church (65), we see the roof of the Corn Exchange (35), the spire of St. Aldate's (32), the hall of Pembroke College (33), and further to the right the plain square tower of Carfax Church (36) ; while closer at hand are the Bodleian (6), the library, new buildings, hall, quadrangle, entrance tower, and chapel of Exeter College (62), the high-pitched roof and slender spirelet of the latter being most conspicuous objects. From the third (west) window we catch a glimpse (behind the chapel of Exeter College) of the tower battlements of St. I'eter-le-Bailey Church '39), next to which are the lofty roofs of the Union Society's Rooms (42', and the elegant spire of the new Wesleyan Chapel (40). Next come the plain old Saxon tower of St. Michael's {6b), and the gables and intern of the New High School for Boys. The trees in the distance cover the
THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE.
Alden's Oxford Guide.
mound of the ancient Castle (69), and the Berkshire hills form a background to the whole. The fourth window gives us an excellent view of Broad street, looking west ; the nearest buildings on the left being the Ashmolean Museum (2) and the north front of Exeter College *62) ; on the right are the handsome new buildings, chapel, and hall of Balliol v6o), adjoining which are the chapel and gardens of Trinity College (61). Behind Balliol rise the roofs of the Randolph Hotel (57) and the Taylor Institute (56) ; further in the rear are the campanile of St. Barnabas Church (49) and the chimney-shaft of the University Press (48). To the right are the entrance towers, garden front, £.nd garden of St. John's (55), St. Aloysius' Roman Catholic Church, the Radcliffe Observa- tory (50) and Infirmary (53), and St. Giles's Church (54). From the fifth or north window, especially in summer and autumn, a scene of unrivalled beauty presents itself. Before us lie gardens and groves, rich with varying verdure, — the " pleasaunces " of St. John's, Trinity, and Wadham ; while beyond these are seen {left) the spire of SS. Philip and James' Church (51), and {right) the grand facade of the University Museum (9) ; between them the red brick of Keble College (10), with its lofty chapel, peeping here and there through the clustering trees. Nearer, on the right, we get a good view of Wadham College (8), its regular front and general plan being clearly defined. Its chapel is best seen from the sixth window ; from which also we notice the entrance to Holy- well-street, marked by the dome of the new Indian Institute (7a) ; the N. front of New College (12), beyond which {left) are the new buildings of Mansfield (75) ; while at our feet is the roof of the old Clarendon Building (7). The seventh (east) window shows the new Cherwell walk, leading out of the Parks, the Racquet Court, and the picturesquely situated Church of Holy Cross, Holywell, backed by Headington hill. Nearer are New College lane, with Hertford College (11) on the right, and the fine tower and chapel of New College (12) embowered in the foliage of its gardens ; the grove of Magdalen (17) ; and beyond all, the heights of Shotover hill; while the Clarendon (7) and the Schools (5) form a foreground to the picture. From the eighth window we see the ancient church of St. Peter-in-the-East (13), the Schools Tower (5) facing us on the east side of the Schools Quadrangle ; between this and the twin towers of All Souls (19) is Magdalen Tower (17) in the distance; and then the two low towers of University College (18), and the roofs of the New Schools. The houses beyond are situated on the Iffley-road in the S.E. suburb. The line of the High street can easily be traced, from Magdalen (17) on the left to Carfax Church (36) on the right.
Before leaving this chamber, we venture to express a hope that the visitor will shun the example of hundreds of his predecessors, who have immortalized their folly in pencil inscriptions on its walls.*
• Should the visitor from any cause be unable to see the panorama from the Sheldonian described above, he will have another opportunity of a Bird's-Eye View from the gallery »f the Radoliffe, which will be visited in due oouroe (Bee No. 21).
Sheldonian Theatre.
Descending, we pass through a large room originally occupied by the University Printing Press. The spacious floor is laid over the flat ceiling of the Theatre, which is sustained by enormous beams. Another descent brings us to the " Undergraduates' Gallery," from which we gain a good idea of the capacity of the building. At the annual Encccnia, or Commemoration, this gallery is crowded chiefly with junior members of the University ; the galleries beneath are filled with " dons " and ladies ; the area is densely packed with graduates and strangers provided with tickets ; while the Creweian oration in commemoration of Founders and Benefactors is delivered and prize compositions are recited from the "rostra," and honorary degrees conferred by the Vice-Chancellor on distinguished guests.
The Theatre was bui't in 1664-9 by Sir Christopher Wren, at the cost of Abp. Sheldon, then Chancellor of the University, to provide a more suitable building for these exercises, which had lormerly been conducted in St. Mary's Church (20), as well as to accommodate the University Press, which was set up under the galleries and in the roof. From this date till the removal of the press to the Clarendon Building (7), books issued by the University bore on their title-pages a vignette of the Sheldonian Theatre.
The design of the building was suggested by the Theatre of Marcellus at Rome ; and its arrangements are so ingenious that it will hold nearly 4,000 persons. The flat ceiling is in imitation of a canvas covering over gilt cords stretched from side to side. It was painted by Streater, serjeant-painter to Charles I., and represents allegorically an apotheosis of the Arts and Sciences, surrounding a central figure of Truth, from whose presence Envy, Rapine, and Ignorance are ignominiously hurled. On the walls are portraits of the founder (Archbp. Sheldon), the architect (Sir Christopher Wren), Baron Crewe, and the Duke of Ormond. A fine organ (by Willis: front designed by Mr. T. G. Jackson), erected in 1877 m the S. gallery, is frequently used in illustration of the public lectures of the Professor of Music which are delivered here ; it may be heard also at the occasional public " exercises" for the degree of Mus. Doc, performed in the Theatre under the baton of their respective candidates, as well as at public performances of local musical societies. Close by (W.) is the
2. Ashmolean Museum, founded 1682. Open daily from 11 till 4; fee 3</. each. It is the oldest museum in England, having its origin in the first considerable collection of curiosities,
Alden's Oxford Guide.
formed by one John Tradescant, who founded at South Lambeth a popular exhibition known as " Tradescant's Ark."
Tradescant the elder died in 1638, and his son of the same name (who died in 1662) bequeathed the collection to Elias Ashmole, who had resided in his house. The latter added to the original museum his own collection of coins and other objects, with rare books and MSS., the whole of which he presented to the University, by whom this building was erected for their reception. The natural history collection and anthropological objects have been removed to the New Museum (6), and the classical inscribed marbles to the University Galleries (56) ; but as an archceological museum the Ashmolean still takes very high rank.
Its most important feature is its extensive Anglo-Saxon Collection, contain- ing the objects found in several cemeteries of the pagan Eng- lish, many of them excavated f J in the neighbourhood of Oxford. Among the most jjja valuable and interesting relics are King Alfred's Jewels dis- covered in 1693 near his re- treat at Athelney; and the Sword presented to King
HENRY VIII. 3
SWORD.
Henry VIII. by Pope leo X., JL* wittl the title "Defender of
the Faith." Our engraving fmtM^ represents the handle of the
sword, which is curiously set with large crystals in highly
wrought silver mountings enriched with niello-work. This sword was a principal object in Ashmole's original collection. Several interesting relics have recently been transferred from the Bodleian (6) ; notably Guy Fawkes1 Lantern (see Page 7)> given to the University in 1641 by Robert Heywood. son of the Justice by whom the conspirator was arrested. Here may be seen the earliest known example of Egyptian sculpture, — a limestone tablet of the time of King Sent (Sethenes), the second dynasty of the Old Empire, B.C. 4700. The inscription is a most interesting specimen of primitive hieroglyphics, referred to by Dr. Isaac Taylor in illustration of the origin of the alphabet. Great improvements are in progress here. The smaller archaeological objects of classical interest, formerly scattered about in various University buildings, have been transferred to the fine Upper Gallery ; and the collection has been enriched by considerable loans and donations, including some of the finest known Greek tej-ra-cottas, bronze, figurines, &c, and the best existing specimen of a Phcenician vase, found in Cyprus, purchased in 1885. The original Museum Trade scantianum
Ashmolean Museum.— Divinity School. 7
has been placed together at one end of the principal room ; while the Archaeo- logical department has been enriched by the gift of Mr. C. D. E. Fortnum's priceless collection, which includes Italian bronzes, reliefs, majolica ware, and other objects. ' Wood's Study ' has been restored and fitted up as a library, and here are preserved in portfolios the historical photographs of Egypt, Greece, Palestine, and Rome, with a large number of drawings and plans of Ancient Rome, the Catacombs, ere, collected by Mr. J. H. Parker, C.B., late Keeper of the Ashmolean. In a strong room is a choice collection of gems, cameos, &c. During the year 18S9, nearly 2,000 separate objects have been acquired by gift or purchase, including Mr. Greville Chester's collection of Phcenician, Hittite, and other oriental antiquities ; also several valuable Egyptian relics, among them a remarkable Portrait Mummy. In the basement are a number of models and casts of mediaeval architecture, the property of the Oxford Architectural and Historical Society, together with their library.
GUY FAWKES LANTERN. Turning to our right, we approach
3. The Divinity School, 1445-80 (open 9 to 5, fee id.) This beautiful room has long been used, as its name implies, for exercises for the University degrees in Divinity. Passing through the Proscholium (popularly called "the Pig-market" — a survival of the base uses to which it was degraded in the latter part of Henry VIII. 's reign), we enter by a finely moulded Perpendicular doorway a noble room with arched stone roof, elaborately groined in every bay, and adorned with bosses rendered extremely in- teresting by their carved work, forming heraldic bearings, and a
8
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Convocation House.— The Old Schools. 9
vast variety of elegantly composed monograms. The fine windows
on either side were originally " richly dight " with glass of gorgeous
hues; but these were destroyed by the reformers of Edward VI. 's
reign, when the whole building was allowed to fall into decay.
Some exciting scenes were enacted here during the tragic reign of Mary. On the 30th September, 1555, Latimer and Ridley were cited to appear in the Divinity School before commissioners appointed by Cardinal Pole, to answer for " sundry erroneous opinions " openly maintained by them in Oxford. In 1625 the House of Commons met in the Divinity School, when driven from London by the ravages of the plague. Still later, during the Civil War, it was used as a storehouse and armoury. Towards the close of the 17th century the building was completey restored by Sir Christopher Wren, who also opened a door on the X. side for the accommodation of processions into the Theatre (see page 5). The pulpits shown in the engraving are now removed to the new Schools {14a). A door at the W. end of the room gives access to
4. The Convocation House, opened Oct. 30, 1640, used for the transaction of business by the Convocation of the University.
The scene in this room on " Degree days," at the ceremonial of conferring degrees upon students, is one of great interest. Adjoining is the Apodyterium, or robing-room, used also as the Chancellor's Court- room : it contains fine portraits of Lords Eldon and Stowell. Returning through the Divinity School, we enter the fine Quadrangle of
5. The Schools, 1439, rebuilt 1 613-18. Although the rooms on the ground floor still retain over their doorways the names of the "faculties," they have long ceased to be used for teaching purposes ; but the public examination of students was carried on here until 1882, when the opening of the New Examination Schools (14a) enabled the University to devote these rooms to the much needed enlargement of the Bodleian Library (6). Immediately facing us on our entrance to this court is a picturesque bit of Renaissance, the Schools Tower, late Gothic in general design, but ornamented with columns of the five orders of Roman architec. ture, grouped in pairs, — Tuscan, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, and Composite,— and a sculptured figure of James I. (See page 10.)
10
Alden's Oxford Guide.
THE SCHOOLS TOWER. Reproduced (by permission) from Cassell's Family Magazine, May, ii
The Bodleian Library. 11
The architect of the tower was Thomas Holt, who died in 1624. It has recently undergone thorough and faithful restoration at a cost of over ^"6,000.
6. The Bodleian Library {Bibliotheca Bodleiand) is entered by a small doorway in the S.W. corner of this quadrangle. It is open daily (with certain exceptions) from 9 till 5 in summer, closing earlier during the remainder of the year ; the fee for admission is 3^. each ; and readers may obtain free access to its treasures on satisfactory recommendation. The most ancient portion of this library, over the Divinity School (3), was founded by Humphrey Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV., and built 1445-80. To this Sir Thomas Bodley added the E. wing in 1610, and the W. wing was added some thirty years later. The Bodleian contains about half-a-million bound volumes, including 28,000 volumes of manuscripts, and other rich literary treasures. (The number of works separately titled is about 1% million.) Moreover, by a grant from the Stationers' Company, dated 16 10, now merged in a Copyright Act, it enjoys the right to a copy of every work published in this country ; and additions are also constantly being made to it by purchase and presentation.* Ascending the staircase we reach the Library.
" Directly we enter, wc are struck by the stillness and solemnity that reign around, helped by the dim lights, the windows with painted glass, the ponderous shelves, the illuminated missals the graduates or attendants conversing in low whispers, or moving quietly about. For reading purposes the library is as free and as good as the library of the British Museum; with the advantages that you may be seated in front of a window commanding a beautiful garden prospect, that your armchair is not disturbed, that books are allowed to accumulate around you, and that you are not obliged to return them to the care of the custodian on leaving the library. The visitor will not fail to notice the portraits in the upper library, and especially to cast a grateful look at the fine portrait of Bodley. He will see the exercise-books used by Edward VI. and Elizabeth when children, and, close by, the autographs of distinguished visitors. The Picture Gallery (see p. 12) is interesting as a series of portraits of University benefactors. It contains many curiosities in addition to the pictures : among them a chair made
* Total oumber of items received by the Library in the year 1885,-45,873.
12
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Clarendon Building.— Indian Institute. 13
out of Drake's ship, with an inscription by the poet Cowley." — Arnold's Oxford and Cambridge.
Here, too, are some admirable models of ancient temples, &c. From the windows of the Picture Gallery we get a striking view of the fine building (see No. 21), now used as a reading-room in connection with the Bodleian.
Leaving the Bodleian, we quit the Schools Quadrangle by a passage-way on its N. side, and crossing an open space, with the Sheldonian Theatre to our left hand, pass into Broad-street through
7. The Clarendon Building, completed 17 13. It derives its name from the fact that the profits of Lord Clarendon's " History of the Rebellion," the copyright of which was presented to the University by his son, were applied towards the cost of its erection. To this building the Printing Press of the University was removed from its original quarters in the Sheldonian (1), and here it remained until 1830, when the present Printing Office (48) was erected.
In one of the rooms the Hebdomadal Council of the University now meet, and other apartments are used by the Registrar, the Curator of the Chest, &c.
Descending a flight of steps, and crossing Broad street, the visitor will notice the imposing front of the Clarendon, and the fine effect of the whole cluster of buildings he has just left. If we take a few paces southward, towards the E. front of the Schools, we shall get an anticipatory glimpse of another beautiful architectural group, to be visited by-and-by (see Nos. 20 and 21). The new building, conspicuously situated at the corner of Holy well-street, is the
la. Indian Institute, designed by Mr. Basil Champneys in the English Renaissance style of the 1 7th cent, with oriental details.
The portion at present completed (occupying about half its intended site) was opened by the Vice-Chancel lor on 14th Oct., 1884. On a brass tablet in the entrance lobby is a Sanskrit inscription, deeply incised, of which the following is a translation : — "This building, dedicated to Eastern Sciences, was founded for the use of Aryas (Indian and Englishmen) by excellent and benevolent men desirous of encouraging knowledge. The high-minded Heir- Apparent, named Albert Edward, son of the Empress of India, himself performed the act of inauguration. The ceremony of laying the memorial stone took place on Wednesday, the 18th lunar day of the dark half of the month of Vaisakha, in the Samvat year 1939 ( = Wednesday, May 2, 1883). By the favour of God may the learning and literature of India be ever held in honour : and may the mutual friendship of India and England constantly increase. " The institution owes its origin mainly to the advocacy and exertions of the Professor of Sanskrit (Sir M. Monier Williams), who thus describes its objects: — "The work of
14 Alden's Oxford Guide.
fostering and facilitating Indian studies in this University ; the work of making Englishmen, and even Indians themselves, appreciate better than they have done before the languages, literature, and industries of India ; the work of qualifying young Englishmen for Indian careers, and of qualifying young Indians, who come to us for training and instruction, to serve their own country in the most effective manner." Among the means by which these objects are sought to be attained, are : a Museum, illustrating the industries, products, natural history, and religious and social life of India : a Library of Oriental books, MSS., &c. ; Lecture-rooms, Reading-rooms, &c.
The Library is open in Term from 10 a.m. till 6 p.m. and from 7 30 to 10 p.m. ; in Vacation from 10 a.m. till 4 p.m. The Museum is open from 10 till 6 during Summer Term, and till 4 at other times. Visitors are admitted on application to the officer in charge, and writing their names and addresses in the Porter's book. The Institute is entirely closed from Aug. 16th to Sept. 14th.
Proceeding up Park-street, we pass on the left lb. St. Stephen's House, founded in 1876 for training candidates for Holy Orders, especially for the work of Foreign Missions ; and a few steps more bring us to
8. Wadham College, founded by Nicho- las Wadham and Dorothy his wife, on the site of an old monastery of Augustinian Friars ; the first stone was laid on 16th August, 161 2.
Its buildings exhibit a singular mixture of architecture of coeval date ; the Gothic portions on the garden side being of unusual merit. Through the stone-vaulted
ARMS OF WADHAM- . & j 1 .u -c j
gateway we enter a spacious quadrangle ; on the E. side of which (facing us) is the Chapel with ante-chapel, a fine well-proportioned structure : the glass in its east window is by Bernard Van Linge, 1621. The new organ gallery and organ case are from designs by Mr. Jackson ; and there has recently been added an Old Communion Table of carved oak {temp. Eliz. ) from Ilminster Church, Somerset, where Nicholas and Dorothy Wadham once worshipped. The Dining Hall adjoining has a handsome screen and lofty timber roof, and contains a number of portraits ; over the entrance are sculptured figures of the founders and King James I. Corresponding with the chapel, and communicating with it by a cloister, is the Library. The other three sides of the quadrangle comprise lodgings for the warden, fellows, and undergraduates. The Garden is entered through a passage at the left-hand corner : though small comparatively, it possesses many beauties, and affords a picturesque view of the Chapel, Library, &c. Amongst the eminent members of this college were Admiral Blake, Sir Christopher Wren, Seth Ward, Harris, author of the 11 Hermes," Dr. Kennicott, and others.
The University Museum. 15
Leaving Wadham College, and pursuing our course northward by a pleasantly shaded path, with the gardens of Wadham on the right and those of Trinity (61) and St. John's (55) on the left, we suddenly come upon the stately pile known as
9. The University Museum, completed in i860, from designs by Messrs. Deaneand Woodward.* This Museum is much more than a mere collection of curiosities ; it is, in fact, about the most comprehensive and complete institution in the world for the teaching and study of the Natural Sciences. Its objects are thus briefly summarized by Sir Henry W. Acland, K.C.B., F.R.S. : —
" First, to give the learner a general idea of the planet on which he lives, of its constituent parts, and the relations which it occupies as a world among worlds ; and, secondly, to enable him to study, in the most complete and scientific manner, any detailed portion which his powers qualify him to grasp. The departments to which are assigned, for mutual aid and easy interchange of reference and comparison, a common habitation under one roof, are Astronomy, Geometry. Experimental Physics with their -Mathematics, Chemistry, Minera- logy, Geology, Zoology, Anatomy, Physiology, M edicine. To students of nature in any of these branches, every requirement is afforded by this institution : as, firstly, work rooms, where they may practically see and work for themselves : secondly, lecture- rooms, where thty may see and be taught that which by them- selves they could neither see nor learn ; and, as an adjunct to these, rooms for more private study : thirdly, general space for the common display of illustrative specimens, so placed as to be convenient for reference and comparison between all the different branches : and lastly, a library, in which the best scientific books of past and present ages may be readily consulted."
The principal collections are arranged in a spacious quadrangle covered by a glass roof, supported on cast iron columns, with wrought iron ornaments, repre- senting, in the large spandrels between the arches, interwoven branches of lime, chestnut, sycamore, walnut, palm, and other trees ; and in the capitals of the columns and the trefoils of the girders, leaves of elm, briar, waterlily, passion flower, ivy, &c. This central court is surrounded by an open arcade of two storeys, furnishing ready means of communication between the several depart- ments and their collections in the area.
On the ground floor, this arcade comprises 33 piers and 30 shafts ; and in the upper corridor there are 33 piers and 95 shafts. Thus the court is surrounded
* Open free to strangers daily from 2 till 4; members of the University and students introduced by a Professor, from 10 till 2. Residents in Oxford must be accompanied by a member of the University, or bear an order from a member of Convocation.
16
Alden's Oxford Guide.
by 125 shafts, and 191 capitals and bases. The shafts were carefully selected, under the direction of the late eminent Professor of Geology (J. Phillips, F.R.S.) as examples of many of the most important rocks of the British Islands; and
the capitals are beauti- fully carved represen- vmmmS^&:. tations of natural ob-
jects. "Thus" — to quote the Professor — "this is not a hap- hazard collection of pretty stones crowned with pretty flowers ; but a selection of mar- bles and sculptures intended to illustrate points of some interest and importance in science and art." On massive corbels, pro- jecting from the fronts of the piers on the ground floor, are placed statues of men eminent in the several branches of natural science. Her Majesty the Queen presented statues of the first of the modern school, — Francis, Lord Bacon, and four other eminent scientists ; the last (John Hunter) was un- veiled by the Princess Christian, May 30th, 1886. Round the arcade are arranged the various rooms re- \%i ;- .,..,.;. _■ ... .'...': '.■.iii .'. L-ial: >'-■■■■" quired for each de-
statue of lord bacon, in the museum- partment of study.
Removed from the principal pile north and south, yet easily accessible from the lecture-rooms and court, are dissecting-rooms,
Museum, Observatory, and Laboratories. 17
workshops, furnace rooms, and laboratories ; the great Chemical Laboratory (enlarged in 187S) forming a strikingly picturesque object at the S.W. angle.
On the upper floor of the Museum is a Theatre or Lecture Room seating 600 persons ; also a room devoted to cabinets of the choicest butterflies, moths, &c. , forming the Hopeian Entomological collection ; and extending 200 feet along the W. front is the valuable Radcliffe Library of Natural Science, open daily from 10 till 4. and on certain evenings during Term from 7 to 9 p.m. All persons are admitted to read, on satisfactory recommendation.
The Pitt Rivers Collection is contained in an annexe to the main building, of tasteful design, which was opened in 1887.
This collection consists of musical instruments, implements of war, models of boats, pottery and other ornamental art, intended by its donor, General Pitt Rivers, D. C.L., F. R.S. (formt-rly Col. Lane- Fox), to illustrate the gradual development of invention, and forming a most interesting Anthropological Museum. The collection is in course Qf re-arrangement under the care of Professor Moseley, F.R.S. ; and many additions have been made to it from the Ashmolean (2) and other sources. It is open free to visitors daily from 2 till 4 p.m. At the N.W. of the Museum stands the
Clarendon Laboratory, devoted to the study of experi- mental physics. It was completed in 1S72, at the cost of the Clarendon trustees, out of a fund arising from the publication of certain MSS. of the Earl of Clarendon, formerly Lord Chancellor. Other recent additions to this temple of modern science are the
Physiological Laboratory, erected in 1885 for the use of Prof. Burdon Sanderson, at a cost of some ,£10,000, from designs by Messrs. Deane and Son, of Dublin ; and farther E. the
Astronomical Observatory, built by the University in 1874, for the use of the Savilian Professor.
It is fitted up with all the best apparatus for the studvof Physical Astronomy, including the celebrated reflecting telescope and other valuable instruments presented by the late Dr. Warren he la Hue, F. I\ S.
Facing the Museum is Charsley Hall, the first private Hall founded under the statute of 1858 ; it is under the care of Mr. W. H. Charsley, M A. Next to this, N., is the residence of the Warden of Keble, adjoining the front of
1890.] C
18 Alden's Oxford Guide.
10. Keble College, opened by the Marquis of Salisbury, Chancellor of the University, June 23, 1870.
It was founded by subscription in memory of the author of the "Christian year,"— the late Rev. John Keble, sometime Fel'ow and Tutor of Oriel College (see 24), for perpetuating academical education definitely based upon the principles of the Church of r-ngl.md, and with the intention of combining sober living and high culture with Christian training. Its appearance strikes one as very uniike that of the other colleges ; but when the glare of colour is toned down by age it will not fear comparison with its older companions, which it worthily rivals, both in area and number of students.
The superb and lofty Chapel, built from designs by Mr. Butter- field, at the cost of the late Mr. W. Gibbs (over ^*6o,ooo), was solemnly dedicated on St. Mark's Day, 25th April, 1876.*
The interior decorations are designed to illustrate, in some sort after the manner of the Christian Year, the successive dealings of God with His Church, Patriarchal, Jewish, and Christian. They bring out by means of type and anti- type the relationship of the Old to the New Testament, and show the process of God's gradual revelation of Himself in Christ. The history of Noah, Abraham, Joseph, and Moses, in twelve of the panels of the W. half of the chapel, with the figures of the twelve minor prophets in the four windows above, and of the four greater prophets with David, Solomon, Samuel, and Elijah in the W. windows, refer to the earlier dispensations. A series of events from the New Testament, — the Annunciation, the Nativity, Baptism, Crucifixion, and Resur- rection of Our Lord, represented in mosaics, is placed in the E. half of the chapel The Ascension of Our Lord is represented in the glass of the E. window. The series is continued to the present time by a mosaic panel beneath the E. window, which represents Our Lord as He revealed Himself, after His ascension, to St. John in the Isle of Patmos, "One like unto the Son of Man." present in His Church now and till the end ; the Church being symbolised by seven candle- sticks around Him, and her chief ministers by seven stars in His right hand. It conveys to the eye the promise given of His perpetual presence. Christian Saints in Mosaic panels on either side support this figure of Our Lord, while the Greek and Latin -Doctors are represented in the four side windows above. In the transept windows are central figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, supported by figures ot the four Evangelists. At the W. en 1 is depicted in three mosaic panels the Second Coming of Our Loid to Judgment, enthroned with the apostles, and attended by angels bearing the cross, the crown of thorns, the
* The Chapel is entered through a small cloister at its W. end, and is open free daily from 10 till 12 and from 2 till 5.30 ; in the winter months it closes at 4 p.m.
Keble College.— The Parks.
19
spear, and the nails. Lower down, in the centre, St. Michael the archangel divides the saved on ihe Right Hand from the lost on the Left Hand of Our Lord. At the foot are the words, " Hereafter ye shall see the Son of Man sitting on the right hand of power, and coming in the clouds of heaven."
The range of buildings opposite the Chapel comprises the Library and Dining Hall, opened on St. Mark's Day, 1878, the first stone having been laid on the same day in 1876.
The grand staircase is lighted by a handsome oriel window, and surmounted by a lofty arched roof. The Hall and Library are open to visitors from 2 till 4 p.m. throughout the year ; in Long Vacation they are also open from 10 till 12. Tickets (6^/. each) may be obtained of the porter. In the Library is Holman Hunt's celebrated picture. "The Light of the World," presented to the college by the widow of the late Mr. Thomas Combe, and valued at ,£10,000. The Hall contains a fine portrait of Keble, also of the first Warden (Rev. E. S. Tal- bot), and otheis.
On leaving Keble College the vi.-itor will notice the spacious and pleasantly laid- out grounds of the Univer- sity Parks, extending N. - and E. of the Museum (9). gateway of keble college.
This vicinity has been known as " The Parks" from the time of the Civil War, when the parks of artillery were planted here. The University Cricket and Football Matches are played in the Parks, and a commodious Pavilion has been erected there for the accommodation of spectators Should tim£ permit, a stroll through the Cherwell Walk called " Mesopotamia " will reward the stranger with views of the towers and spires of Oxford in various picturesque groupings ; and Mansfield College (see No. 75) may be reached by a road turning S. out of South Parks-road. Holywell Church and Cemetery (14^) can also be visited by a short cut shown on our Plan.
Retracing our steps past Wadham (8), and crossing Broad-street at its E. end by the new Indian Institute (ja), we notice at the corner of New College street
20
Alden'g Oxford Guide,
Hertford College.— New College. 2l
11. Hertford College, founded as Hart Hall (Aula Cerrina) by Elias de Hertford in 1284. It was created a college by royal charter in 1740, but enjoyed only a brief career; and in 1820, when old Magdalen Hall* was destroyed by fire, the society was removed to this building, which then took the name of Magdalen Hall. In 1S74 the original title " Hertford College "* was restored by Act of Parliament, and the college re-incorporated.
In recent years considerable improvements have been carried out The two very plain wings of the W. front, built 1S22, in the s< -called classic taste then prevalent, have been connected by a handsome Entrance (Gateway, with new Hall and other apartments, from designs by Mr. T. G. Tackson, which impart to this elevation a boldness and variety of outline to which it was before a stranger. Some remains still exist of the original Hart Hall, of which many eminent men were members, as Tyndale the early translator of the New Testa- ment, good Sir Matthew Hale, and Charles James Fox. The lane hard by leads to
12. New College,! founded June 30, 1379, by William of Wykeham, Bp. of Winchester, and built on a plot of ground in the N.E. angle of the city, the fortified wall being its boundary and defence. It was opened with solemn religious ceremonial, April 14th, 1386 j and after the lapse of 500 years most of the buildings remain to this day as they were designed by the munificent founder. %
The narrow unpretending entiance may be a little disappointing. ''Our forefathers built in a different spirit fioni ourselves. 1 hey connived a lowly portal, reserving their best attractions for the interior; and well did they know how to charm the soul which they had first caused to enter by that gate of humility. Let not, however, the exquisite statues of the Angel Gabriel, the Viigin, and the founder himself, which surmount the gateway, pass unnoticed." Once inside the " lowiy portal," every shade oi disappointment vanishes.
On the left hand stands in solid majesty the glorious Chapel, —
its massive buttresses, deep mullioned windows, and lofty pinnacles,
combining to impress the mind with admiring awe. Adjoining
* Formerly adjoining Magdalen College (17), to which it was attached by the founder, Bishop Waynflete, in 14&7. t Originally described as '■ St. Mary's College of Winchester in Oxenford." \ It should be noted that the upper storey of the areat quadrangle was added in 167s.
22
Aiders Oxford Guide.
NEW COLLEGE CLOISTERS. BELL TOWER. AND CHAPEL (W- END)- RfyYodnzed ftvm Lung's " A'ofes on Otcford" by kind permission 0/ Mnzrs, Seets$>.& Co.
New College. 23
the Chapel at its E. end is the lofty Dining Hall, completing the
N. side of the first quadrangle. In the distance, beyond the
second court, we get a glimpse of the lovely Gardens, open to the
public daily. These will be seen in due time (see page 24) ; but
now, turning to the left at the N.W. corner, the visitor enters the
fine old Cloisters (see p. 22), and (again to quote Dean Burgon)
" . . . . dull of heart must he be if thdr religious silence and solemn beauty do not affect him. Many an interesting inscription awaits him litre, on the pavement and on the walls '1 hen let the Chapel be visited, and the har- monious proportions of the ante-chapel from the entrance at the S.W. corner be duly recognised. He will be struck by the venerable remains of painted glass coeval with the founder, and with the ancient brasses that strew the Moor."
The Chapel is open//** from n till i and from 2 till 4 (2 till
3 on Saturdays). Full choral service is performed here daily
(8 a.m. — 7.30 in Summer Term — and 5 p.m. ; Sundays, 9.30 a.m.
and 5 p.m.), open to the public, except on Sundays in term, when
an order from the Sub-Warden is required.
The great W. window was painted in 1777 by Jervais from designs by Sir Joshua Reynolds : the chief picture representing the Nativity, and the lower range of figures the Christian and cardinal Viitues : Faith, Hope. Charity; Temperance, Fortitude, Justice, and Prudence. Parsing into the Choir, we notice the fine windows confining in their upper small lights the original stained glass Of the larger lights, those on the S. side are believed to have been designed by scholars of kuber.s, and were repaired in 1740 : those on the N. side, containing figures of Old Testament saints, were painted in 1765-74 in a much inferior style. Extensive restorations and alterations of thisChapelwere effected in 1879-80 from the designs of the late Sir G. G. .vcott. The plaster ceiling, which for many years passed muster as stone vaulting, was replaced by a very handsome oak roof reding on the original corbels, by which the lolty effect of the interior is greatly enhanced. The canopy work of the Keredos was restored in stone from the design of one of the original canopies ; and the niches are now (1889-90 being filled in with statues. 1'he sedilia on both sides are also restored. The small but beauti ul alto-relievos over the communion table are by West- macott. One of the most noticeable features of the restoration is the new wood- work of the stalls : every remnant of the old oak has be-n cleaned from the paint with which its delicate carving had become encrusted : while the panelling and cornice above the stalls are new, replacing the deal and plaster of last
24
Alden's Oxford Guide.
century. The organ-loft is almost entirely new ; and the whole of the carved work will repay close ex- mination. In a glazed recess behind the sedilia on the N side of the chapel is preserved the Founder's Pastoral Stafff exceedingly elegant in form, of silver gilt, exquisitely wrought, and curiously enamelled with jewels, one of the most gorgeous relics of the kind in existence.
The Dining Hall, East of the Chapel, is reached by a flight of steps in the Muniment Tower. It was well restored in 1866, and a fine oak roof added, by the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott.
In the Hall are portraits of the founder, Bishops Wayn- flete, Ken, Lo\Uh, &c, the mo-t recent being an admir- able portrait of the present Warden (Rev Dr. Sewell) painted ly Professor Htrkomer ; and the arms of founders and benefactors adorn the windows and wainscoting {c 1530) Descending the stairs, and turning to the left undei the Library through another vaulted archway, we cross the Garden Court (1684) and enter the charming
Gardens, which are seen to best advantage in early summer, when the chestnuts blossom in all their beauty, and the clus- tering foliage of the central " mount " shows its many- shaded greeny or in the autumn, when rich tints abound, and the luxuriant creepers clothe the
FTBwEcoSLLRBoi:ER'walls with crimion.
FOUNDED S J?WEL, NBW COLLEGE.
St. Peter's-in-the-East Church. 26
f The Gardens are bounded on the N. and E. by the only perfect remnant of the Old City Wall. * Its bastions and parapets, and the walks along its battlements, remain a> they were in the Civil Wars, an interesting relic of the olden time. On the opposite side is seen the venerable church of St. r'eter-in-the-Ea>t (13). We leave the gardens by a path at the N.W. corner, between the college and the City Wall, and pass through its hoary portal into a New Quadrangle, with terrace- walk. Here we obtain a fine view of the massive Belfry- Tower, as well as of the old fortifications on which the N transept of the chapel has been grafted. Facing these ancient bulwarks is a handsome range of New Buildings, erected 1872-6, from designs by Sir G G Scott : and, further eastward, are still more recent additions (1886-7), designed in excellent taste by Mr. Basil Champneys.
In the Warden's Library are preserved many interesting and valuable relics of the Founder : perhaps the most beautiful of them is the Jewel represented on page 24, which was used as a clasp or brooch for fastening his episcopal vest- ments. This jewel is in the form of the initial M, crowned, of silver gilt, set with rubies, emeralds, and pearls ; the two exquisitely modelled figures repre- senting the Annunciation.
Belore quitting the precincts of this superb foundation, we may mention among the eminent names connected with it, Archbishop Chichele, founder of All Souls (19 , Bishop Waynflete. founder of Magdalen (17), the saintly Bishop Ken, Dr James, the first librarian of the Bodleian v6^, and Sidney Smith.
Pa>sing through a deeply recessed and richly moulded arch in the City Wall, we find ourselves again in the original Quadrangle. Leaving this by the gate at which we entered, we turn to our left under a grim old archway of the 17th century, and, noticing on the right a picturesque cluster of academic buildings (All Souls, 19), follow the zigzag course of the lane till we reach
13. St. Peter's-in-the-East Church, one of the most ancient and interesting churches in the city. The fine Norman Crypt appears to be of earlier date than the chancel over it (c. 1150). The beautiful reredos of alabaster and mosaic is by Mr. T. G. Jackson, 1888. The nave retains on the S. side and at the W. end its original Norman wall up to a certain height ; but great alterations were made at a later date, commencing on the N. side in the latter half of the 13th century. The S. doorway is a rich specimen of Norman work, obscured by the porch with an upper storey, characteristic of the fifteenth century. Adjoining the churchyard gate is
* See the Note on " OW Oxford," appended to our Shilling edition.
26 Alden's Oxford Guide.
~"~j 13a. St. Edmund Hall, founded in 1226 by
Edmund Rich, afterwards Archbp. of Canterbury,
Wi r.-<j ar>d known as St. Edmund; refounded in 1559.
\fePV The existing buildings are not older than the 17th
\>^ century, and present no features of special interest.
arms of By a small doorway opposite, we pass into
S. EDMUND HALL. J lr l
14. Queen's College, so named in honour of Edward III.'s Queen Philippa, and founded in 1340 by Robert de Eglesfield, her chaplain, " to the honour of God, the profit and furtherance of the Church, and the salvation of souls," and for the special benefit of Cumberland and Westmoreland.
The present buildings were erected at the close of the 17th century ; and the High street front, wilh its unique and elegant cupola surmounting a statue of Queen Caroline, consort of George II., was completed after liawksmoor's designs in 1756. The \V. wing, which suffered severely by a disastrous fire in 1886, has since been thoroughly restored.
In the Chapel, a massive structure in the classic style (17 14), are preserved some curious stained windows from the old chapel, by Van Linge (1635). The ceiling, representing the Ascension, was painted by Thornhill, and the altar-piece is a copy of Correggio's " Night." The screen, marble columns, Provost's seat, and great Organ, are specially worthy of notice.
The Library, in the second quadrangle, is one of the most ex- extensive in the University. It is a large handsome building, containing more than 60,000 volumes, and some original portraits ; among them Henry V. as Prince of Wales, and his uncle Cardinal Beaufort. The garden front is adorned with eight statues.
The Hall, nearly adjoining, is a fine lofty room, designed by Sir Christopher Wren : it contains many good portraits of royal and other benefactors. In the Buttery is preserved a drinking-horn presented by Queen Philippa, and other curiosities worth inspection.
New Examination Schools. 21
The members of this college have from time immemorial been daily sum- moned to dine in hall by sound of trumpet, instead of by the chiming of a bell as elsewhere. Here, too, is observed on every Christmas day the ancient ceremony of ushering in the Boar s Head with the singing of a carol. This was a common custom in the North of England, with which Queen's has always been connected ; but tradition says that it commemorates the deliverance of a student of the college, who while walking in the country, studying Aristotle, was attacked by a wild boar from Shotover Forest ; upon which he crammed the philosopher down the throat of the brute, and thus escaped the threatened peril. There is another singular old ceremonial observed at Queen's College on New Year's Day : the Bursar presents to each member or guest a needle and thread, with the words, " Take this and be thrifty." The custom is sup- posed to be derived from a somewhat fanciful rebus on the name of the founder, Eglesfield (aiguille etfil). The early English Reformer, John Wycliffe (see 60), was one of the first members of this college ; and from his time to the present many eminent men have studied here, including princes, poets, antiquaries, and divines : among the former, Edward the Black Prince and Henry V.
Leaving Queen's College by its principal entrance, we turn to the left and walk down the High-street towards Magdalen (17). Nearly opposite us, on the site of the Angel Hotel, famous in old coaching clays, are the extensive
14#. New Examination Schools for the University. Opened 1S82 : cost about ^100,000. Open to visitors from 9 till 4, fee $d. The design, a picturesque combination of late Gothic and Renaissance, affords an excellent example of Mr. T. G. Jackson's work. Our illustration (p. 28) shows the N. front, facing High street. It comprises a grand Entrance Hall, from which there are approaches to the spacious Examination Rooms, which occupy the upper floor of the quadrangle.
These magnificent apartments were first utilised for the purposes of public assembly rooms on the first of May, 1S83. when H.R.H. the Prince of Wales attended a concert and conversazione in aid of the Royal College of Music. The mosaic flooring of the entrance hall, the choice marble columns of the vestibules, and the gorgeous Grand Staircase, as well as the decorative carving throughout, will repay careful examination. Over the entrance portico are two panels carved in relief, representing the examination of an undergraduate, and the ceremony of conferring a degree.
The E. front is now completed ; the clock tower is a strikingly
original composition, and the whole building, seen from the corner
Magdalen School.— Botanic Gardens. 29
of King street, is very effective. The picturesque gabled house at the E. end of the principal front was added in 1888 to provide rooms for the Delegacy of Non-Collegiate students.
Close by stood formerly the East Gate of the City ; and just opposite is Long- Will-street, bounded on one side by an embattled wall enclosing the fine elms of Magdalen Grove (see page 32).
[Should the visitor have time to pursue this direction a short distance, he will be gratified by an inspection of the ancient Church and picturesque Cemetery of Holy Cross, Holywell (14^). The foundation of the Church is of remote antiquitv, but the chancel arch is the only remaining evidence of its date. N. of the church is the Oxford Penitentiary, occupying part of the old manor-house, with additional buildings. Thence a newly laid-out road leads W. to Mansfield Coll. (75) and to the Park and Walks mentioned on page 19.]
At the corner is a modern structure in the Perpendicular style,
15. Magdalen College School, founded 1480, as a Gram- mar School in connection with the college and University, The present room was built in 185 1, from Mr. J. C. Buckler's designs.
The new buildings of Magdalen now connect the school with the older portion of the college, which we shall presently visit (see 17) ; but now, crossing the road a few yards farther on, and descending some stone steps, we enter the
16. Botanic Gardens (open/ra? till dusk), by a handsome Gateway designed by Inigo Jones in rusticated Italian style, and bearing statues of Charles I. and II.
These Gardens, founded by the Earl of Danby in 1632, "with a view especially to the faculty of medicine," occupy five acres of ground, appropriated in 1231 for use as a Jews' Burying Ground,* in lieu of a neighbouring piece formerly used by them, but granted by a charter of King Henry III. as a site for the Hospital of St. John, afterwards Magdalen College (17). They are furnished with many rare herbaceous and aquatic plants, indigenous and exotic ; and contain several conservatories and aquaria, with a library and lecture rooms for the Professor of Botany. John Tradescant (see 2) was the first gardener here.
The pleasant walk on the bank of the Cherwell leads to a gate conducting into Merton Fields and Christ Church Meadow. As we purpose visiting these hereafter (see nos. 28 32), we now return to the High-street entrance; noticing on our way the fine proportions of Magdalen Tower, which directly faces us.
* A very large number of Jews were resident in Oxford in mediaeval times, but they were expelled at the end of the 13th century.
30
Alden's Oxford Guide.
MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE BRIDGE
Magdalen College and Bridge. 31
It will be well worth while to get a good general view of the exterior of Magdalen College before proceeding to a closer inspection : and this we shall best do by walking a few paces to the right, on to
Magdalen Bridge, which here spans two branches of the
Cherwell, a tributary of the Thames, and was in former days the
entrance to Oxford by coach from London.*
Magdalen Rridge (built in 1 779) was widened in 18S2-J from the designs of Mr. W. H. White, M. Inst. C.E., Engineer to the Oxford Corporation. The width of the old bridge was 26 ft. 6 in. in-ide the parapets, with a carriage-way of 18 ft. The width of the added portion is 20 ft., making the present width 46 ft. 6 in. inside the parapets, with a carriage-way of 32 ft. The new S W. elevation is an exact copy of the original masonry ; so that the beauties of the bridge are retained, and greatly enhanced by its improved propor- tions, while the widening has opened up a view of the High-street front of Magdalen College which could not be seen from the old na-row structure. Paus- ing nbout half-way across, let us turn to admire this unequalled view. " Magdalen College," said Lord Macaulay, "is one of the most remarkable of our academical institutions. Its graceful tower catches, afar off, the eye of the traveller who comes by road from London. As he approaches, he rinds that this tower rises from an embattled pile, low and irregular, yet singularly venerable, which, em- bowered in veidure, overhangs the sluggish waters of the Cherwell." Here, too, we get some lovely glimpses of river scenery and wooded landscape : on one side the Botanic Gardens, whose rich and varied foliage forms a charming setting to the towers and spires beyond : on the other side the Water Walks of Magdalen (p. 36) ; whi'e across a level and verdant meadow is seen the parish church of St. Clement, built in 1827, in place of the old church which formerly stood at the S.E. end of th^ bridge, where the grave-yard -till remains. On the high ground behind the church is Headington Hill Hall, the seat of G. H. Morrell, Esq.; and at the further end of the bridge is Turrell's Hall, under the care of the Rev. H. J. Turrell, M.A.f Leaving ihe Bridge, we retrace our steps towards
17. St. Mary Magdalen College, founded 1458 by William
of Waynflete; built 147581. In 1448, the founder gathered together a body of students in the High-street, probably where the New
¥ Our illustration is from a photograph taken before the widening of the bridge. A view of Magdalen College and Bri.; - the Cherwell, is on p. 35.
♦ In the populous suburbs beyond the bridge are the Churches of St. Clement and Cowley St. John, the new Church and Cemetery of SS. Mary ami John, the Mission House of the Society of St. John the Evangelist; St. Ignatius (R.C.), and several Nonconformist ChaDels. an Almshouse, The House ot Charity of the Sisters of Nazareth (R.C.}, the Ho-pital for Incurables, the Lnion Workhouse, and the College Cricket Grounds. On the heights of Bullingdon, about two miles by the middle (Cowley) road, are the Barracks, &c, of the Military DtpOt, and the Royal Military College, Cowley.
32
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Schools now stand. Ten years afterwards, having obtained the site of an ancient Hospital of St. John, he removed his society to the present spot. The majestic Tower, built some fifty years later, has
been erroneously attributed to Wolsey, who was bursar at the time : it is 150 feet high, and con- tains a musical 'ring' of ten bells.
The college buildings now form four quadrangles, covering an area ol about twelve acres ; its grounds occupy nearly one hundred acres, comprising lawns and gardens, the shaded Water Walks beloved by Addison, and the Grove, "dainty relic of monastic days," where, within a stone's throw of the High street of the city, deer are quietly browsing under huge old elms with their cawing rooks, as though the haunts of men were distant and forgotten.
As we approach the college, we shall admire the good taste displayed in the important additions recently completed by Messrs. Bodley and Garner, forming the Quadrangle of St Sivithun.'va admir- able harmony with the ancient buildings.
We enter Magdalen through the new porter's lodge, adjoining the new Entrance Gate, and find our- selves in the old Quadrangle of St. John Baptist.
In its S.E. coiner is a curious ancient Pulpit of stone, from which a sermon open-air pulpit, m«GDalen. was formerly delivered annually on St. John Baptist's Day to a congregation assembled in the quadrangle, the ground being strewn with rushes and' gra-s, and the buildings dressed with green boughs, in commemoration of the preaching of the Baptist in the Wilderness. The custom fell into disuse about 1750, and the sermon is now preached in the Chapel.
St. Mary Magdalen College.
33
1890.]
34
Alden's Oxford Guide.
The W. doorway of the Chapel is of extremely beautiful design, quite without precedent. Over it, in niches, are the figures of St. John Baptist, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Swithun, Edward IV., and the founder. Next is the Muniment Tower, in which the archives are preserved. Further to the left is the Great Gate of the College, usually called the Founder's Toiver, adorned with statues of St. Mary Magdalen, St. John, Henry III., and the founder. It contains on its first floor a magnificent state banqueting-room, lighted at each end by a grand oriel window. This apartment was restored and richly decorated in the mediaeval
style, and two state bedrooms furnished throughout in ac- cordance with the date of the building, under the direction of the late Sir G. G. Scott. Adjoining are the President's lodgings, rebuilt in 1888-9, from designs by Messrs. Bod- ley and Garner, who have with much good taste incor- porated with their new build- ings a picturesque remnant of old Magdalen Hall (see II).
The Chapel (open
' free daily, from 1 1 to
► 12.30) is entered under
4 the Muniment Tower
by a door to the right.
It was completed in 14S0, on the usual T-shaped ground-plan, forming an ante-chapel and choir, separated from each other by the organ screen. The public are admitted to the daily Services free on week- days at 10 a.m. and to the
DOOR OF CHAPEL, MAGDALEN
COLLEGE.
ante-chapel only at 6 p.m. On Sundays and on other occasions it is necessary to procure on order for admission to the chapel. There is a large and well- trained choir ; one of the special provisions of the founder having been that even in the event of a diminution of the society's revenues the staff of chaplains and choristers should always be kept up to its full strength. On the N. side of
* Reproduced from an etching by Alfred Slocombe, by kind permission.
St. Mary Magdalen College.
35
ten'.: ZOiitlii'--^
MAGDALEN COLLEGE and BRIDGE, from the CHERWELL. Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Cassell & Co.
36 Alden's Oxford Guide.
the altar a small chapel has been restored to receive the tomb of Richard Patten, father of the founder, William of Waynflete. The canopied niches of the Reredos were filled with statues in 1864-5. The altar-piece, "Christ bearing His Cross," is ascribed to Ribalta, a Spaniard. The choir windows are now filled with stained glass by Hardman, thegiftof Lord Selborne, who wasformerlya Fellow of the college ; and the designs in chiar-oscuro, removed to the choir in 1740, are now restored to their original positions in the ante-chapel. In the great W. window, originally consisting of seven lights, is a large chiar-oscuro, after Christopher Schwartz, representing the Last Judgment.
Leaving the Chapel and keeping to the right, we follow the course
of the Cloisters till we reach the staircase to the Dining Hall.
The Hall contains some handsome oak panelling, with several curiously carved figures at the W. end (dated 1541), representing scenes in the life of St. Mary Magdalen. In the Hall are also a choice painting of the Magdalene, and among others portraits of the Founder, Bp. Fox, founder of Corpus Christi (25), Prince Henry, Prince Rupert, Bp. Hough, Bp. Philpotts, Lord Selborne, and the late venerable president, Dr. Routh, by Pickersgill.
The Kitchen, near the foot of the Hall staircase, is a spacious detached building, with lofty wooden roof. It is of great antiquity, and probably was the original kitchen of the Hospital of St. John Baptist.
Passing along the Cloisters, the visitor will be impressed with the splendour of the architectural group formed by the Chapel and Hall, backed by the matchless Bell-Tower ; and, at right angles therewith, the Gateway Tower before noticed, unrivalled in the beauty of its design, and marvellously picturesque in its garment of clinging foliage (see page 33). No cloister now remaining in England can compare with this. The quaint allegorical statues on the buttresses (date dr. 1509) will repay examination.
The Library occupies the west side of the great quadrangle, over the clois- ters. It contains a large collection of books and valuable illuminated MSS. — a copy of St. Chrysostom's works in Greek of the nth century ; also some rare examples of early printing, including Caxton's "Boethius," and a " Comment, in Arist. de Anima," printed at Oxford in 1481 by Theodoric Rood of Cologne.
Leaving the Cloisters by a passage on the N. side, we have before us — across a fine lawn, edged with flower-beds — the New Buildings, 1 733 ; on our left we see a portion of the Grove or deer-park; and on our right are the Water Walks, open free to the public.
Old Antony a Wood quaintly extols these "pleasant meanders shadowed with trees. At some times of the year,'' says he, "you will find them as delectable as the banks of the Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont to walk and sing his lays. " Entering these delightful walks by a stone bridge over the Cherwell,
St. Mary Magdalen College.
37
we turn to the left, and follow the pathway until we reach another bridge on the left leading to the deer-park, from which is to be seen an old water-mill, now modernized into a dwelling-house. Here the path turns sharply to the right, and a few more steps will bring us into the delightlul avenue still known as
Addison's Walk, said to have been a favourite resort of that eminent "man of letters " when at Magdalen.
If time permit, the visitor will do well to complete the circuit of the meadow. 11 not, he can from this point retrace his steps to the Cloisters.
Not withstanding the heavy requisitions levied by Charles I. during the Civil War, a few interesting arti- cles ol gold and silver plate remain in pos- session of the college. Among the.^e is the Founder's cup, and a grace-cup, presented on the restoration of the Fellows who had been ejected in the time of James II. when a Roman Catho- lic President was forced on the college. The incident is illus- trated in one of the frescoes in the Houses of Parliament. Bp. addison's walk.
Hough, whose portrait is in the Hall, was the President who resisted the King's arbitraiy demand. A curious ceremony annually observed at Magdalen College is represented in our Frontispiece. Every May-day morning, at five o'clock, a Latin hymn to the Holy Trinity is sung on the summit of the Tower by the choir habited in their surplices. This custom is commonly said
207869
38 Alden's Oxford Guide.
to have been substituted for a mass anciently performed for the soul of King Henry VII., but is probably, like other May-day usages, a relic of Pagan times. The hymn now sung is taken from the College grace, and is in no way connected with the annual commemoration of Henry VII. in the chapel on the same day. The words of the hymn in Latin and English, together with a beautiful descriptive poem by Dean Burgon, are published in a neat form at the office of this Guide.
After thus exploring the beauties and antiquities of Magdalen College, the visitor will be inclined to agree with a modern writer that it is " perhaps on the whole the most beautiful, certainly the most enjoyable, place, not in Oxford only, but in England."
Returning up the High Street, on the same side of the way, we
cannot fail to be impressed at every step by the ever-changing
scene, as the street in its graceful curve reveals successive beauties,
until at Queen's College (14) the supreme point of view is gained.
" The visitor here beholds the finest sweep of street architecture which Europe can exhibit. Antwerp may have quainter pieces, Edinburgh more striking blendings of art with nature, Paris and London may show grander coups cfctil, and there is architecture more picturesque in Nuremburg and Frankfort. But for stately beauty, that same broad curve of colleges, enhanced by many a spire and dome, and relieved by a background of rich foliage, is absolutely without parallel. Queen's (14) on the right, of fair but very modern appearance, leads the eye along to the charming front of All Souls (19), beyond which are just visible the spiral columns of St. Mary's (20) ; and opposite those two colleges ranges a long castellated facade, its dark-grey contours broken by oriel windows, ind the bright emerald of its turfed quadrangles shining out of two massive gateways." {Daily Telegraph, June, 1872) That ancient edifice is
18. University College. No other college has so vener- able a look; albeit, to tell the truth, the appearance is due rather to the soft oolitic stone of which the college was built than to the actual antiquity of its existing portions. University College, as it now stands, was erected between 1634 and 1675, in that stormy period when King Charles I. was holding his broken Parliament in the city, and the University was melting down its plate to coin money for his losing cause. But, as a college! its origin is far more
University College. 39
ancient ; and tradition ascribes to King Alfred the first establish- ment of a University Hall upon that very spot.
Although this tradition has been sanctioned by a legal decision, and the alleged millenary of the foundation of the college was celebrated in 1872 by a grand banquet, yet the theory is now generally abandoned as mythical. The facts are thus summarised by a trustworthy writer in the Saturday Review: — •* Tae history of Oxford begins in the tenth century ; in the eleventh it was a place of the rirst importance as a military post, and as the scene of great national gatherings. But it is not till the twelfth that we get the first hints of the coming University, the first glimpses of schools, scholars, and lectures ; and it is not till the thirteenth that we get our first glimpses of anything like colleges in the modern sense. In that age too comes, not indeed University College, but the benefaction out of which University College grew." The first mention of a royal foundation in the college documents occurs in a petition written in Norman- French, and addressed to King Richard II. by "your poor petitioners the Master and Scholars of your College called ' Universite Hall, in Oxenford,' which College was first founded by your noble progenitor, King Alfred (whom God absolve), for the maintenance of twenty-four ' Uivinis Perpetuels.' " The firs: historical endowment of the college dates from 1249. In that year William, Archdeacon of Durham, bequeathed 310 marks to the Chancellor, Masters, and Scholars of the University, for the endowment of masterships. Several ancient Schools or Halls were in course of time acquired (see 22), and early in the fourteenth century the society found a local habitation on the present site, its title then being " Great " or " Mickle University Hall." In the next century the title "The Universite Colledge " became frequent. The college has been rebuilt and enlarged during subsequent ages, the present buildings dating from 1634-75.
The first (E.) gateway leads into a small quadrangle, under a
tower bearing on the N. side a statue of Mary, Queen-consort of
William III., and on the S. side one of Dr. RadclifTe (see 21),
who erected this portion of the edifice at his own expense, and
bequeathed ;£6oo per annum for travelling fellowships. The
second gateway tower bears statues of Queen Anne and James II.,*
and leads to the Great Quadrangle, on the S. side of which is the
Chapel, beautifully renovated and improved in 1862 by Sir G. G.
Scott, but still retaining the quaint cedar wainscoting and oak
screen. Its N. and S. windows are by Van Linge, 1641. The
• This is laid to be the only statue of James II. in England, except the one at Whitehall.
40
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Hall adjoining, refitted in 1766, contains some good portraits of Lords Eldon and Stowell, and other eminent members of the college. The Library occupies the S. side of the new quad., entered from behind the Hall. It was built in 1 860-1, in the Decorated style (Sir G G. Scott, architect) to supersede the old library, which was situated over the kitchen. Statues of Lords
Eldon and Stowell, .formerly
mms^ ^ Fellows of the college, oc-
Kjjlk cupy a conspicuous position
apt [ A Hjp^ at the W. end of the interior-
Hi In the Common Room are curious
-J3^ portraits of Henry IV. and Dud-
HlMB If5F~ ley, Earl of Leicester, burnt in
fg^ wood by Mr. Griffith ; also busts HJfta "' king Alfred and William Pitt.
In the grounds to the rear, a house for the Master has recently been built ; also a new tutorial resi- dence adjoining the library, 1889. Re-entering the High-street, we pass a block of building at the W. extremity of the front, added in 1S43 from a design by the late Sir C. Barry ; and on the opposite side of the street is
19. All Souls College, founded in 1438 by Henry
all souls coll. & st mary's church. Chichele, of Higham Fer- rers, Northamptonshire, one of the original Fellows of New College (12), afterwards Abp. of Canterbury, whose statue, with that of Henry VI., adorns the tower beneath which we enter.
It is styled in the charter, ''The College of all the Souls of the faithful departed, and especially the souls of Henry V., King of England and France, and of the faithful subjects of the realm who died in the French wars ;" and was founded for one warden, forty fellows, two chaplains, three clerks, and three
All Souls College. 41
choristers. There are now four Bible-clerks, who are the only undergraduates at All Souls ; the fellowships being filled up by election from other colleges. By the founder's statutes preference in election of members was given to those candidates who should prove themselves to be of his kin ; but this restriction has been abolished ; and by the new statutes of May, 1SS2, provision is made for fifty fellowships, of which several are tenable only in connection with Uni- versity professorships or other offices. Chichele spent, beside the cost of the site, a sum of ^4,545 15.W $d. in the buildings of this First Quadrangle and, the original refectory. It is worthy of notice that this quadrangle retains its pristine features, its relative proportions never having been altered as at New College (12) by the addition of a third storey.
On the N. side stands the Chapel, a good specimen of late Perpendicular work, 70 ft. by 30 ft., entered by a vaulted porch at the N.W. angle of the quad. It is open free to visitors daily in Term, from 12 till 1 and 2 till 4. Four of the windows of the ante- chapel contain the original stained glass ; the great W. window was filled by Hardman in 1862; those in the choir have been quite recently added. But the chief glory of the chapel is its singularly beautiful Reredos. This superb adornment of the E. end was walled up in 1664, and with the fine wooden roof was for two centuries concealed by lath and plaster ; until, a restoration of the chapel being taken in hand a few years since, the reredos was brought to light, seriously dilapidated, it is true, and despoiled of its statues, but still affording sufficient data for the present magnifi- cent work, which was completed in 1876 at the expense of the late senior Fellow of the College, Earl Bathurst, under the superin- tendence of the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott.
It comprises 36 statues under elaborately carved canopies, and nearly 100 statuettes (all executed by Mr. E. Geflowski), surrounding and surmounting the principal subject, the Crucifixion. Beneath are three richly decorated panels in bas-relief (by Mr. C. E. Kemp, 1889), representing the Deposition, the En- tombment, and the Descent into Hades.
Many of the larger statues are portraits of contemporary
Fellows, some of which are easily recognisable. We give
42 Alden's Oxford Guide.
below a list of the larger figures, in order, beginning on the left- hand side of the bottom row : —
Lower Tier: — Earl Bathurst (the restorer), Catharine of France, Henry V., Margaret of Anjou, Abp.Chichele (founder). — The Crucifixion. — Henry VI. (co-founder), Abp. Warham, John of Gaunt, Bp. Goldwell, Cardinal Beaufort.
Second Tier: — Edward lJuke of York, John Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury, Michael dela Pole Earl of Suffolk, John Duke of Bedford. — St. Jerome, St. Gregory, St. John Baptist, St. Ambrose, St. Augustine. — Thomas Duke of Clarence, Humphrey Duke of Gloucester, An Archer (temp. Hen. V.), Thomas Montacute Earl of Salisbury.
Third Tier: — The Twelve Apostles, with St. Michael in the centre.
Fourth Tier: — Our Lord in Glory, with two attendant angels; on His Right Hand, souls saved ; on His Left Hand, souls lost.
Above are inscribed the words " Surgite mortui, venite ad judicium " (Arise, ye dead, and come to Judgment!), and beneath, over the altar-table, " Beati mortuiqui in Domino moriuntur" (Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord).
The floor is paved with Purbeck and Devonshire marbles, exqui- sitely inlaid at the E. end. The Hall, E. of the Chapel, contains many good portraits j among them the founder, Henry VI., Sir W. Blackstone, Abp. Harcourt, Bp. Heber, Lord Salisbury, &c A small archway (facing us as we leave the Chapel) leads to the Second Quadrangle, which, in spite of some incongruities of style, affords one of the grandest architectural scenes in Oxford. Let us take our stand at the foot of Hawksmoor's twin towers, a few steps to the right, and enjoy the view. Opposite is a picturesque cloister or piazza, with entrance gateway, date 1734; behind which rise majestically the dome of the Radcliffe (21) and the beautiful spire of St. Mary's Church (20). On the left extends the range of Hall and Chapel, and facing this on our right, occupying the whole N. side, is the Library, 200 ft. in length, built 1716-60, which, though of debased design, not unfitly completes the picture.
This library was founded by Col. Codrington, a former Fellow, who be- queathed books of the value of ^6,000 and a sum of ^io.ooo. It contains more than 50,000 volumes, many of them legal works ; also a statue of its found**-
St. Mary-the- Virgin's Church. 43
a series of busts of eminent Fellows, and a singular Planetarium, kept in motion by machinery. The Library and a comfortable modern Reading-room are open for study to persons properly recommended. Among the celebrated men who have been Fellows of All Souls, may be mentioned Linacre. Sir Anthony Shirley, Abp. Sheldon (see I), Jeremy Taylor, Bp. Tanner, Sir William lUackstone (whose monument is in the library), Sir Christopher Wren, Bp. Heber, and the poet Young.
Leaving All Souls, the next building on our right is the beautiful 20. Church of St. Mary-the-Virgin. The Tower is a very stately structure of the 13th century, with massive buttresses at the angles ; later in the same century the characteristics of the Early Decorated style had become so developed, that the splendid pyramidal group of turrets, pinnacles, and windows, crowned by the spire, was grafted on to a base probably prepared for a less ornate surmounting. The ball-flower or pomegranate ornament was pro- fusely employed in honour of Eleanor of Castile, mother of Edward II., in whose reign the spire was probably completed. It was faithfully restored in 1861 by Mr. J. C. Buckler. The chapel of Edward II.'s almoner, Adam de Brome, founder of Oriel College (24), on the W. side of the tower, was founded at the same time, but considerably altered in the 15th century, when the remainder of the edifice was rebuilt. His tomb, despoiled of its brasses, remains. St Mary's is the University Church, and besides its parish services, the University sermons are preached here every Sunday during term-time, all clerical members of the University of certain degrees taking their turns. When the preacher is a man of note the large galleries are crowded with undergraduates, while the body of the church is filled to overflowing with the " dons " of the University and a general congregation. Men of the most diverse character and opinions have occupied the pulpit, and the well-known Bampton Lectures are regularly delivered here by divines appointed annually
44 Alden's Oxford Guide.
The historical and biographical associations of St. Mary's are
of great interest, and strikingly illustrate the important part taken
by Oxford in the ecclesiastical and religious life of the nation.
Here John Wycliffe, "the morning star of the Reformation" (see
60), denounced the errors and abuses of his day. To the chancel
of this church Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were cited on 14th
April, 1554, for a disputation with the doctors of Oxford and
Cambridge, on the "presence, substance, and sacrifice of the
Sacrament;" and here, on Sept. 7th in the following year, the
same prelates were brought up for trial before a commission
appointed by Cardinal Pole. Hither also, on 21st March, 1556,
the venerable Archbishop Cranmer was brought for the purpose
of publicly recanting his Protestant opinions.
The account given by Foxe of this scene is full of painful interest. Cranmer had been brought to St. Mary's from Bocardo prison (see page 1). The pro- cession of the mayor and aldermen, followed by Cranmer between two friars, is described minutely. "Entering into the church, the psalm-singing friars brought Cranmer to his standing, and there left him. There was a stage set over against the pu!pit. of a mean height from the ground, where Cranmer had his standing, waiting until Cole made him ready to his sermon." Attired in a l>are and ragged gown, with an old square cap, he turned to a pillar near adjoining thereto, lifted up his hands, and prayed. Afterwards being per- mitted to speak, he concluded an affecting address in these words : " Forasmuch as my hand offended in writing contrary to my heart, my hand therefore shall be first punished ; for if I may come to the fire, it shall be the first burnt. As for the l'ope, I utterly refuse his false doctrines ; and as for the Sacrament, I believe as J have taught in my hook against the Bishop of Winchester, which my book teacheth so true a doctrine of the Sacrament, that it shall stand at the last day before the judgment seat of God, when the Papistical doctrine contrary thereto shall be ashamed to show her /ace." Having thus " flung down the burden of his shame." Cranmer recovered his strength, and went without fear to the stake. (See Martyrs' Memorial, No. 58.)
An inscription on a marble slab in the floor of the chancel
informs us, on the authority ot a contemporary record, that "in a
vault of brick, at the upper end of the quire of this church," lies
St. Mary-the-Virgin's Church,
45
Amy Robsart, the ill-fated heroine of Sir Walter Scott's Kenihuorth. Her body was conveyed to Oxford from Cumnor Hall, some three or four miles distant, and was buried on Sunday, 22nd Sept., 1560, having lain in state at Gloucester Hall, now Worcester College (45).
The picturesque Italian porch with spiral columns was erected in 1637 by Dr. Morgan Owen, chaplain to Abp. Laud. Over it is a statue of the Vir- gin with the Child in her arms. This effigy occasioned such offence to the Puritans of that day, that it formed the subject of one of the articles of impeachment against the Arch- bishop. The porch was admirably re- stored in 1865 by the late Sir Gilbert Scott, under whose judicious direction the whole structure was put into repair. The Porch, and indeed the whole S. front, is in the autumn gorgeously festooned with Virginia creeper, all aglow with crimson. The old Chapel adjoining the
THE PORCH. ST. M ARY'TH E- VI PGI N S CHURCH.
46 Alden's Oxford Guide.
N. side of the Chancel, for centuries the Congregation House of the University, was restored in 187 1. The chamber over it was originally the receptacle of the University library, until the room over the Divinity School was built by Duke Humphrey (6).
At the W. end of the Church an ancient and historic ale-house has recently undergone, at the skilful hands of Messrs. Wilkinson and Moore, architects, a most successful transformation into a dwelling-house, appropriately named 11 St. Marys Entry." Passing this on our left we find ourselves in
RadclifTe Square, a "place" occupied entirely by academic edifices, and singularly rich in grand and beautiful effects. On the E. side the buildings of All Souls (19) group themselves in pictur- esque combinations. On the W. extends the E. facade of Brasenose College (22) ; on the N. is the Bodleian Library (6); on the S. is the University Church (20) we have just left. The effect of its fine tower and spire seen from this square by moonlight, or lit up by the evening sun against a clear sky, is indescribably impressive. The imposing structure in the centre is still popularly known as
21. The Radcliffe Library, although more correctly designated Camera Bodleiana (colloquially "The Camera"; because now used as a Reading-Room in connection with the Bodleian Library (6). It is open to visitors on payment of $d. each, from 10 till 10 daily, with the exception of certain days and hours during which the Bodleian is customarily closed. It was built in 1737-49, from a design by Gibbs, at an expense of ^40,000, contributed by Dr. Radcliffe, Physician to William III. and Mary and to Queen Anne. To this large sum he added an endowment of ^250 per annum for a librarian's salary, and two other sums of ;£ioo for repairs and the purchase of books. This library was originally called the Physic Library, its design being the encouragement of the study of the physical sciences; but in 1861 the Radcliffe collection of books
RadclifTe Library.— Brasenose College. 47
was removed to the spacious room provided for its reception in the University Museum (9), established in furtherance of the same object, and the present building transformed into a reading-room to the Bodleian Library (6). Here all new publications are classified for the use of members of the University and any others who obtain permission to read ; and books may also be brought from the Bodleian for perusal, until 10 p.m.
Here are preserved some elegant Candelabra from the baths of Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli ; as well as casts of the Belvidere Apollo, the Townley Venus, .Sic. In the galleries is the Hope Collection of books and engraved portraits.
Should the day be fine, we would strongly advise visitors to ascend to the gallery which surrounds the base of the dome, whence they will enjoy a mag- nificent panorama of the University and surrounding country- A similar view from the cupola of the Sheldonian Theatre has already been described (see pp. 3, 4) : but as the points of sight are not precisely identical, we subjoin a list of the principal objects seen from this gallery, giving in order the numbers they bear in the Guide and on the Flan.* The first conspicuous objects N. (to our left at the top of the staircase) are the Schools Tower (5) and Bodleian (6) : further eastward (to the right) are Nos. 8, II, and 12 ; due E we are bounded by 19, beyond which are seen 13, 14, and 17. Next are the lantern and roof of 14a ; and then (S.) 18, 26, 20, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32. Brasenose (22) is immedi- ately below us on the W., while further distant are 65. 36, 64, 69, 39. 42, 40, 43a and 66. X W., behind Bishop Heber's tree (see p. 49), is 62 ; then come 6, 1 : and beyond these (N ) 60, 57, 55, 50, 53^, 54, 51, 10, and 9 : the cupola and vane of ja just showing above the roofs between 9 and 5 ; and last, No. 75.
On the W. side of RadclifTe Square is the old entrance to 22. Brasenose College, founded in 1509 by William Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, and Sir Richard Sutton, Kt, of Prestbury in Cheshire. Several scholarships and exhibitions have been added by subsequent benefactors. Henry VIII. 's charter, entitling this college " The King's Hall and College of Brasenose," is dated 15th Jan., 15 12, but the work of education has been conducted on this spot from a more remote period. The older buildings occupy the site of four ancient Halls ; one of which was called " Little University Hall," in contradistinction to " Miclde University Hall " * For a handy Key to these numbers, see Numericaljndex on page facing the Plan.
48
Alden's Oxford Guide.
(see 18); another, called Brasenose Hall, is said to have derived the name from its occupying the site of a brasen-hus or brewhouse. Over the old entrance gate is the representation of a brazen nose, probably added at a much later date, when punning rebuses of this kind were in fashion. The Gateway Tower is one of the most
handsome in Oxford. It had been mischiev- ously altered in the 17 th century, but was faithfully restored a few years since by Mr. J. C. Buckler, architect.
Our view, from within the first Quadrangle, gives a much better idea of the original proportions of the building than the East front, where the relative height of the tower is diminished by a third storey, constructed in the reign of James I.
The Hall, which
retains its primitive
form, is entered on
BRASENOSE COLLEGE & RADCLIFFE LIBRARY. the South side of the
quad, by a curious shallow porch, over which are 16th cent, busts of Alfred the Great and Johannes Erigena, a Scot, who is said to have lectured in Little University Hall on this site, a.d. 882. It contains portraits of the founder, also of Dr. Burton, author of the "Anatomy of Melancholy," and others. The Library forms the
Brasenose College.— St. Mary Hall. 49
more modern portion of the front facing Radcliffe Square ; and with the Chapel which adjoins it (both said to have been the work of Sir Christopher Wren) affords a very interesting example of the mixed style of architecture prevalent in his day.
The Chapel, 1668, has a fine fan-tracery roof, and its general effect is good, notwithstanding its architectural anomalies. The glass of the E. window is by Hardman, 1855 ; and the memorial windows to the late Rev F. W. Robertson, of Brighton, and the Rev. J. P. Harris, Chaplain of Lucknow during the memorable siege, are worthy of notice.
Among the eminent members of Brasenose should also be mentioned Bishop Miles, John Foxe, Elias Ashmole (see 2), Dean Milman, and Bishop Heber, who when a student here occupied rooms on the ground floor, right of No. 4 staircase, which are still overshadowed by a noble chestnut tree in the neigh- bouring garden of Exeter College (62), hence called Bishop Heber 's Tree.
Extensive additions have recently been made at this college. New buildings, comprising more than twenty sets of rooms, two lecture-rooms, a reading-room, and various offices, occupy the site of old Broadgates Hall, more lately called "Amsterdam,*' anciently a place of considerable importance, and at one time a recognised asylum for petty criminals. And by the extension of the college to the southward, a really magnificent frontage to the High street is gained. The buildings comprise a grand Entrance Gateway and Tower, with richly carved details, a resident for the Principal, and five sets of rooms for under- graduates ; and this new South front, with its bold gables and fine range of oriel windows, forms a worthy addition to the beauties of the High street. Mr. T. G. Jackson is the architect.
We now cross the High street at St. Mary's Church (20), and taking a good look at the new front of Brasenose, we observe that another wing remains to be built west of the tower in completion of the design. In a narrow lane opposite, named Oriel-street, we find on our left hand,
23. St. Mary Hall. The site was anciently occupied by the parsonage of St. Mary-the-Virgin's, presented in 1325 by King Edward II. to Oriel College (24), by which society it was converted into a separate place of education in 1333. About the year 1451, Bedell Hall, founded in 1294, was also conveyed to the same college by the University, and added to the site. The buildings now consist of a small quadrangle, formed by the Principal's 1890.] e
50
Alden's Oxford Guide.
lodgings on the N., the Hall and Chapel (1639-40) on the S., and apartments for students E. and W. The E. and S. sides were entirely rebuilt in the last century.
Among the famous men who studied in this house were Sir Thomas More (whose portrait after Holbein adorns the Hall), and George Sandys the poet. Adjoining St. Mary Hall is its parent society,— 24. Oriel College, founded by King Edward II., at the
suggestion of his almoner, Adam de Brome,onthei2th April, 1326. The King bestowed on the society a large messuage known as "La Oriole," whence the present name of the college is derived.* The college was incor- porated in 1603 by letters patent of King James I. The Hall was built dining hALL. oriel COLLEGE. in 1637, and has
since been restored and improved. It is entered by an embattled portico approached by a flight of steps. Over the entrance are statues of the Virgin and Child, with those of Kings Edward II. and III., in canopied niches under a semi-circular pediment. The
* Oriol is an old French word meaning any portiro, recess, or small room which was more private and better ornamented than the rest of the building. It is derived from the Latin aureolum, gilded, ornamented with gold.
Oriel College. 51
room is of noble proportions, and its oaken roof is one of the finest
in Oxford; on the walls are several portraits of eminent persons
connected with the college, including Edward II., Sir Walter
Raleigh, Queen Anne, Bp. Butler, &c. There are also some elegant
specimens of ancient art, in the shape of two drinking cups, one
said to have been the gift of Edward II., the other a cocoa-nut in
silver gilt, presented by Bishop Carpenter in the 15th century.
The Chapel (adjoining the Hall to the S.) was completed in 1642.
It has been altered at various dates, most recently in 1884-5
by Mr. T. G. Jackson, and a new E. window added in memory
of the late Provost. The Library, designed in the Ionic order
by W'vatt, 17S8, is on the X. side of the second quadrangle, on
the site of an older room originally erected in 1444. It contains
many rare books, including the " Parliamentary Records " and
other works by Prynne the republican and antiquary. In the
Common Room on the ground floor are portraits, among others, of
Bishops Ken, Morley, Seth Ward, and Copleston ; together with
a celebrated painting of the Italian poets by VasarL
Oriel is peculiarly rich in biographical reminiscences. We find on its books in bygone years the names of Langlancie, author of Piers Ploughman ; Sir Walter Raleigh, Prynne, and Bishop Butler ; and in later times many of its members took a conspicuous part in the " Tractarian" movement. John Keble (see io) at the early age of eighteen became a Fellow of the college, and took his place at the high table and senior common-room, among that remark- able body of men which even then gave the intellectual tone to the University, and afterwards, by the gradual accretion of men of marked ability and kindred thought, became a centre of influence which well-nigh revolutionized the Church of England. Copleston and Davison were the leaders in the endless discussions of the common-room when Keble entered it almost simultaneously with Whately ; Newman, Arnold, Pusey, and many lesser lights were afterwaids added. Bps. Wilberforce and Hampden were also members of this college.
Almost opposite Oriel is a lofty arch flanked with fluted Doric
columns, called Canterbury Gate, It was built by Wyatt in 1778,
52
Alden's Oxford Guide.
and forms the entrance to one of the small quadrangles of Christ Church, named "Canterbury Quad." (see page 67) from a college formerly standing on its site, founded 1363, of which Wycliffe (see Nos. 14, 20, 26, 60) was first warden, and Sir Thomas More a student. Close to the gateway is
25. Corpus Christi College,* founded in 15 16 by Richard
Fox, Bp. of Win- chester, Keeper of the Privy Seal to Henry VII. and Henry VIII.
It was dedicated "to the honour of the most precious Body of our Lord Jesus Christ, of His most spotless Mother, and of all the Saints Patrons of the Cathedral Churches of Winchester, Durham, Bath and Wells, and Exeter."'
Bishop Fox's original design was to erect a seminary for eight monks of St. Swith- un's Priory in Win- chester, with a few secular scholars. But
CO;. PUS CH-.ISTI COLLEGE.
this plan was altered, it is said at the suggestion of Hugh Oldham, Bp. of Exeter, who remonstrated thus: ''What, my lord ! shall we build houses and provide livelihoods for a company of buzzing monks, whose end and fall we ourselves may live to see? No, no ! it is more meet a great deal, that we should have care to provide for the increase of learning, and lor such as by their learning shall do good in the church and commonwealth." Bishop Oldham followed up this advice
* Some important additions were made- to this College in 1885, by the erection of new buildings on the opposite side oi the way, at the corner of Grove-street, at a coSt of about j£4.ooo,_from theoriginal and.characteristic.designs of Mr. T. G. Jackson.
Corpus Christi College,
53
by giving 6,000 marks towards the building of Corpus Christi College. This institution was the first in Oxford in which any regular provision was made for the cultivation of Greek and Latin : the appointment by its founder of two professors for these languages being the first noteworthy attempt to depart from the narrow plan of education which had previously prevailed in the University.
Entering by the tower gateway, with fine vaulted roof, we have on our left hand the Hall, which possesses a good timber roof of the 1 6th cent., and contains portraits of benefactors. In the Library, on the south side, are many ancient volumes and some rare M.SS. The Chapel (1517) has an altar-piece by Rubens, representing the Adoration. The cylindrical Sun-dial standing in the centre of the quadrangle (see engraving, p. 52) was constructed in 1605 by Charles Turnbull, a Fellow of the college. On its summit are carved the arms of Henry VI L, the University, and Bps. Fox and Oldham; and beneath these is the dial, exhibiting a curious perpetual calendar. Through the adjoining cloister we reach a modern range, called "Tur- ner's Buildings" (after a former President by whom they were built in 1706) and the Gardens beyond, whence is obtained a good view of Christ Church meadow and walks. Several objects of antiquarian interest are treasured as relics in this college : among them the Crozier bp. foxs roz:er. of the founder, in perfect preservation, although more than 300 years old. It is six feet in length, of silver gilt,
54 Alden's Oxford Guide.
elegantly ornamented, and in beauty only second to the one pre- served at New College (see page 23). There is besides an original portrait of Bp. Fox, executed by a Fleming named Joannes Corvus, early in the reign of Henry VIII. ; also the founder's sacramental plate, and other interesting and valuable articles.
Corpus Christi has had from its foundation a great reputation for learning, and has numbered many remarkable men among its members — conspicuously Bp. Jewell and the "judicious" Hooker. In the list of modern worthies stands prominently the name of John Keble (10), who in his fifteenth year was elected to a scholarship here, which he held until, on taking a "double first" at his final examination, he gained a fellowship at Oriel (24) at the age of eighteen.
Next to Corpus eastward is
26. Merton College, in many respects one of the most interesting foundations in the Univer- sity. It competes with Balliol (60) for the honour of being the oldest college in Oxford — having been founded in 1264 by Walter de Merton, Bishop of Rochester and Lord High Chancellor, who arms of merton originally instituted a house for students at Maiden in Surrey, which was transferred to Oxford in 1274.
They were a body of secular students, not required to enter into holy orders ("qui non rdigiosi, 1 eligiosi viverent ") ; and if they took the vows of any among the monastic orders they ceased ipso facto to be members of the college. The Fellows of Merton early acquired a reputation for free speech and bold specula- tion. Wycliiie was one of them (see 14, 20, 60). They were among the earliest of the Lollards, and were in fact called Lollards till the end of the 17th century.
The Chapel, which is also the Church of St. John the Baptist (1264-1310 ; Tower 1450) is the first object which claims special attention. The visitor cannot fail to be struck with the extent and beauty of the Choir as seen from Merton-street, and the bold effect of the Tower and transepts. The original design was evidently for a cathedral-shaped edifice on the usual cruciform
Merton College.
55
ground plan, the tower and transepts plainly showing traces of the
projected extension westward. We enter the college by the
principal gateway, which is surmounted with figures of the founder
and Henry II L, and a curious sculpture of St. John Baptist
preaching in the wilderness ; and passing through an iron gate on
our right into the old burial .,/o ullJMl UHiillftllU4 .
ground, we gain access to
the interior of the Chapel
by a small door on the E.
side of the North transept,
and are at once impressed
with the grand proportions
of the tower arches.
On the wall at our left on entering, we notice an exquisite bas-relief in white marble, by Woolner, in memory of the martyred Bishop Patteson, some- time a Fellow of this college. In the transepts are also monu- ments to Antony a Wood, Sir Thos. Bod ley (see 6), and Sir H. Saville : and on the floor are nu- merous traces of ancient brasses.
The Choir is a perfectly beautiful specimen of late 13th century Gothic. Its fourteen side windows of merton college gateway.
diverse yet harmonious geometric patterns (the upper lights retain- ing their original glass) ; its splendid East window, of exquisite design, although somewhat marred by the inferior painted glass with which the lower lights were filled in 1702; its elaborately carved sedilia, well-preserved memorial brasses (dated 1387 and
56 Alden's Oxford Guide.
(1471), brass lectern of the 15th century, and richly illuminated roof, restored in 1850-T, combine to form a charming ensemble unsurpassed in Oxford. Besides the daily prayers, attended by members of the college only, there is Public service in the choir every Sunday at 3 p.m. Returning to the First Quadrangle, we notice on our right the glorious East window of the Chapel (see p. 57), close to which is the old Sacristy, temp. Edw. II.
Having served for many years the purposes of a brew-house, this Sacristy has now been carefully restored (1887) under the direction of Mr. Jackson, and an interesting staircase of the 15th century brought to light.
On the S. side of the quadrangle is the Hall, one of the most interesting and most ancient refectories in Oxford. It was thoroughly restored in 1872 by Sir G. G. Scott, the original oak door with iron hinge-mountings {circa 1320) being retained. On the walls are portraits of the founder, Duns Scotus, Bp. Jewell, and other celebrities. Leaving the First Quadrangle through a low archway W. of the Hall, we pass to our right, under an ancient Muniment-room or Treasury of the 13th cent, with quaint high- pitched stone roof, into the Mob Quadrangle, containing on its S. side the venerable Library, certainly one of the most ancient in the kingdom : its narrow lancet-shaped windows with trefoil heads indicating its antiquity. It was built in 1349 by William Rede, Bp. of Chichester, on the site of an old structure ; but, as may be seen, the dormer windows in the roof were added some centuries later, when in the reign of James I. the interior was fitted up as it now remains, — a very interesting specimen of an old English library, well rewarding the inspection of the visitor.
Beyond another stone-groined archway at the N.W. angle of the Library Quadrangle, and in startling contrast with these venerable monastic relics, is a new building erected in 1864 for the accommodation of additional students.
Retracing our steps to the First Quad., we pass E. of the Hall
into the FcUaws* Quadrangle, 1610, under a wide-spanned arch with
MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL, FROM THE EA3T.
58 Alden's Oxford Guide.
remarkable vaulted roof, having among its bosses the arms of Henry VII. surrounded by the signs of the zodiac. Opposite us is an imitation of the Schools-. Tower (5) minus the first or Tuscan stage j and beyond this is a Garden and terrace-walk on a portion of the old city wall, which affords a most delightful prospect, from Magdalen Tower (17) on the left to Christ Church (29) on the right. Dr. Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, was once Warden of this College. Connected with Merton, and communicating with it on the east side of the First Quad- rangle, is a group of buildings until 1882 known as St. Alban Hall (27), which was founded in 1230 by Robert de St. Alban, a citizen of Oxford, who gave it with another tenement called Nun Hall to the nuns of Littlemore. These houses were sub- sequently leased to Merton College : but at the dissolution of Littlemore nunnery for the founding of Wolsey's College (29), St. Alban Hall became his property, and on his fall it came into the hands of Henry VI II., from whom it ultimately passed to Merton College in 1549. This Hall was rebuilt in 1600, and further enlarged and improved in 1863 and 1866. In its quadrangle is a quaint gabled bell-turret worthy of notice. By virtue of a statute made in 1881 by the University Commissioners, St. Alban Hall is now formally united with Merton College. On leaving Merton, we retrace our steps past the Chapel, remarking the grotesque carving of the gurgoyles or water-spouts from its roof, and turn to the left through a gateway adjoining the N. transept leading to Merton Fields, whence from various points many of the colle- giate buildings may be seen j the Cathedral (29) being a prominent object on our right. The fine avenue of elms facing us, named the Broad Walk, communicates at each end with a delightful
Christ Church Meadow.
59
river-side walk, a mile and a quarter in extent, surrounding a large meadow, known as Christ Church Meadow (see p. 69).* In the Broad ]}'alk a promenade is held annually on the Sunday in Commemoration week, hence popularly called " Show Sunday." Near the W. end of the Broad Walk, an avenue planted a few years since (marked " New Walk ;' in Plan) leads directly to the
?W5
CLUB BARGES ON THE ISIS.
River Isis, a classic name applied to that part of the Thames which flows by the classic University. The Oxfordshire shore is lined with barges, some of which are occupied by the proprietors of rowing boats, but the more handsome ones by the Rowing Clubs of the various colleges. These are in fact floating club-houses, well supplied with newspapers, periodicals, writing
This meadow was the j;ift of Lady Elizabeth Montacute (see "page 63).
66 Alden's Oxford Guide.
materials, and every accommodation for members who indulge
in aquatic exercise. The University Boat Club barge, represented
to the right of our engraving, was designed by Mr. Bruton, and is
in plan and decoration appropriate for the purpose. The other
barge seen in the illustration (but not now in the position there
shown) was formerly the state baige of the Stationers' Company of
London. On the river in summer-time a most animated sight is
presented by the numberless craft, from canoes to eight-oars,
which crowd its surface.
During the Lent and Summer Terms the College eight-oar races are rowed here, when some fifty crews, including the " torpids," compete for the glory of heading the river. On the Monday in Commemoration week there is in the evening a grand procession of about fifty racing boats, each manned by nine men in rowing suits of distinctive colours; when the University barges arc crowded with fair spectators, manifesting delighted interest in the pretty sight, as the boats in order pass the fortunate crew who are "head of the river," and give a hearty salute by adroitly tossing all their oars in the air— an achievement which when clumsily attempted sometimes entails the sudden punishment of submersion, to the no small merriment of thousands of spectators.
Returning by the new avenue, and recrossing the Broad Walk at its western extremity, we approach the noble buildings and spacious quadrangles of the most magnificent academic and religious foundation in Europe,—
28-31. Christ Church.* Facing us are the New Build- ings (28), an extensive range erected in 1862-6, and containing fifty sets of rooms for students' lodgings. Passing through the tower gateway of this Meadow Front and leaving the Chaplains' Quadrangle on our left, we enter the old Cloisters leading to
* For the sake of distinctness, the principal buildings of Christ Church are separately numbered on our Plan, from 28 to 31 inclusive. It should be observed that in pursuing the course of our walk we have approached Christ Church from the East, and shall leave by the usual Western entrance in St. Aldate's (see page 68). A visitor entering through "Tom" gateway would have to reverse the order of description, beginning at No. 31 (page 63) and tracing back to No. 28 on this page.
Christ Church Cathedral. 61
29. The Cathedral, which is both the chapel of Christ Church and the chief church of the diocese of Oxford. It is open for the inspection of visitors daily from n till i and from 2.30 till 4.30. Entrance by the W. door in the Great Quadrangle.
This venerable pile boasts an antiquity far greater than that of the collegiate establishment with which it is now combined. Standing under its shadow, let us take a rapid glance at the history of both. The earliest annals of the church carry us back, to Saxon times, and connect themselves with the almost legendary history of a renowned priory, founded by St. Frideswide, who died A. d. 740. In 1 1 80 her remains were removed "from an obscure to a more noted place in the church." At this date the main fabric of the present church was complete, having been erected by Prior Guimond, II 20-11 80; and the massive columns and arches were then substantially the same as we see them now. In 1289 a new and more worthy shrine for her relics was solemnly dedi- cated, and this was again replaced in 1480 by one still more superb, which remains in the Cathedral, a rich specimen of mediaeval architecture.* St. Frideswide's Priory was finally surrendered to Henry VIII. in 1522, and by him transferred to Cardinal Wolsey, then in the zenith of his prosperity. This eminent prelate had resolved to found an institution to be called " Cardinal's College," where the new learning, then pouring over Europe, should be culti- vated in the service of the old Church, on a scale of such magnificence that no other foundation in Europe should be able to compare with it. The first stone of Wolsey's College was laid July 17, 1525, but the completion of this grand project was prevented by his attainder in 1529. Henry VIII. then took pos- session of all the revenues which had been appropriated to Wolsey's design, and in 1532 founded a college here which he named King Henry VIII. s College. In 1540, having created the bishopric of Oxford, first established at Osney Abbey in the western suburb, he connected the new see with his recently founded college t Christ Church is therefore an instance, without parallel, of the union of a cathedral and a collegiate foundation. Its Latin name being /Odes ChrLti (not Collegium), it is never called a College, but is spoken of by its members as "The House." A curious illustration of its mixed constitution i.-, afforded by the fact that although the diocesan is styled Bishop of Oxford. one never hears of the Dean of Oxford or the Canons of Oxford, but they are always called Dean and Canons of Christ Chinch.
The Cathedral is a very interesting architectural type of the
transition period between the Norman and Early English styles.
• It is now asserted that the true shrine of St. Frideswide was demolished at the Refor* matiou, and that this tomb was built in memory of an unknown merchant and his wife.
t The King died within a few weeks after its foundation, without hanug signed any statutes for the House.
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Alden's Oxford Guide.
CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL. FROM THE CLOISTERS-
Reproduced from "Cathedral Churches of England and Wales," bv permission of
Messrs. Casscll er Co,
Christ Church Cathedral. 63
Its spire is one of the most ancient in England ; and the beautiful vaulted roof of the Choir (said to have been added by Wolsey as some atonement for having pulled dcrvn fifty feet of the nave) is much admired. The E. end was restored in 1S71 by Sir G. G. Scott in harmony with the original design ; and within the last few years, the whole of the interior has b*en greatly improved, the nave considerably extended westward, he Cloisters restored, and a new W. entrance opened from the Great Quadrangle (p. 67).
On the S. side of the choir an Episcopal Throne has been erected at the cost of ^1,000, as a memorial to the late Bp. Wilberiorce ; a life-like medallion portrait of this prelate is conspicuous among its profuse embellishment of wood- carving. The richly ornamented Lectern was presented by the Censors of the House, and the Bible (17th cent.) by three daughters of the Dean. An ex- quisitely carved Reredosin >and>t<»ne and rosso antico, richly gilded, has very recently been added. X. of the choir is the Lady Chapel, oi Early English date ; its delicately moulded shafts contrasting with the massive Norman columns opposite. The Latin Chapel (adjoining, N. ). s< 1 called because the Latin prayers were formerly read here, contains some of the original woodwork of Wolsey's time (see engraving, page 64). It is said to have been built by Lady Elizabeth de Montacute, who died in 1350. Her tomb adjoins the reputed shrine of St. Frideswide (see p. 61), shown to the right of our view : and the career of this saint is commemorated in the glass of the east window. The other tomb-, on the S. side of the Latin Chapel are those of a prior, fully robed, believed 10 be Alex, de Sutton, prior of St. Frideswide. 1294 1316 ; and Sir George Mowers, a com- panion of the Hlack Prince, who died 1425. At the angle of the S aisle of the choir and the S. transept is the tomb of Bp. King, last Abbot of 0>ney and first Bp. of Oxford (sec p. 69, also Appendix) : his effigy may be seen in a small window close by. On the E. side of the S. transept is St. Lu,fs Chapel, con- taining the curious Becket window, in which the head of the murdered prelate is obliterated, it is said by royal command. A >!a^> of marble in the floor of the nave covers the grave of Dr. Pusey. Inlaid in lead is a Latin inscription to his memory and that of his wife and two laughters w iih \\ horn he lies buiied. On the wall of the S. aisle have been recently placed (1SS6) a life-like bust in white marble of the late Prince Leopold, ai d a medallion portrait of the wife of Sir Henry Acland, both with engraved bra.-s tablets. The ercat window in the X. transept, representing the triumph of St. Michael the Archangel, was pre- sented by the Marquis of Lothian in 1S76. Mr. Burne Jone.-/ windows are deserving of special notice. One, in memory of Mr. Yyner," murdered by Greek brigands in 1870, is at the E. end of the Lady Chapel ; " St. Cecilia's " adjoins it in the N. aisle of choir ; and in the S. aisle, also at E. end, is " St. Catherine
64
Alden's Oxford Guide.
LATIN CHAPEL, CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL.
Showing the Shrine and Window of St. Frideswide.
Reproduced from " Cathedral Churches of England and Wales," by permission of
Messrs. Cassell & Co.
Christ Church. 65
of Alexandria," in memory of the late Miss Edith Liddell. Another by this artist, subject. '; Faith, Hope, and Charity," is at the W. end of the S. aisle.
Full choral Cathedral service is performed here daily, at io and 5, open to the public ; and there is also an earlier and a later service, the former attended by all the members of the House. We advise visitors who may spend a >unday in Oxford, especially in term-time, not to miss evening prayers at 5 o'clock. There still survives here a ' use ' adopted in honour of Henry VIII., the royal founder of the House, viz. : the repetition of the versicle and response, " O Lord, save the Queen," &o, before the Prayer for the Queen's Majesty.
The Chapter House, adjoining the S. transept, a beautifnl speci- men of Early English (restored in 1S79), is entered from the cloisters by a fine Norman doorway. In its E. wall is preserved the foundation stone of Wolsey's College at Ipswich, a.d. 1528.
Through a low arched passage between the S. transept and the Chapter House, access is gained to a small enclosure used as a burial-ground. In the " stillness and seclusion " of this quiet nook, just beneath her memorial window, is the simple grave of a daughter of the present Dean ; and here also the late Dr. Pusey s only son lies buried. The S.E. view of the Cathedral from this spot is one of the most impressive.
Under the new Belfry Tower (completed in 1879 f°r tne recep- tion of the sweet-toned bells from the Cathedral tower — originally in Osney Abbey) we now ascend the Hall Staircase, admiring the elegant fan-tracery of the stone roof (1640), supported by a single slender pillar, and enter
30. Christ Church Hall (fee 2d.), the grandest of all mediaeval Halls in the kingdom, save that at Westminster.
Its length is 115 ft., breadth 40 ft., height 50 ft. Its lofty roof (dated 1529 ; repaired, after fire, 1720) is of Irish oak, decorated with armorial bearings. In this room a banquet was given to Henry VIII. in 1533; dramatic repre- sentations were witnessed here by Elizabeth. James I., and Charles I. ; and here in 1644 the latter monarch assembled those members of Parliament who remained faithful to his failing cause. The dais or high table at the upper end of the room is lighted on the S. side by a large and splendid oriel window recently filled (by Messrs. Burlison & Grylls) with exquisitely wrought full-length portraits of Cardinal Wolsey, Sir Thomas More, Erasmus, Earl Surrey, Abp. Wareham, Dean Colet, Linacre, and Lily ; on the N. side is another window, erected in 1867 at the cost of the late Archdeacon Clerke, in commemoration of the membership of the Prince of Wales and Prince Frederick of Denmark.
The walls are adorned with a magnificent collection of portraits of persons
1890.] F
66
Alden's Oxford Guide.
belonging to the foundation, by eminent painters ; amongst them, Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Vandyke, Hogarth, Gainsborough, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir Martin Shee. Holbein's picture of Wolsey gives a view, the oldest and most authentic, of the earlier buildings, — Cathedral, Hall, and Kitchen. Over all presides Holbein's striking portrait of Henry VIII. One
DINING HALL, CHRIST CHURCH-
of the latest and not the least noteworthy addition to this grand collection is Millais' life-like portrait of Mr. Gladstone, robed as a D.C.L.
Leaving the Hall, we descend by a staircase on our right to the Kitchen, of considerable antiquarian interest, having been the first building completed by Wolsey, and remaining almost unchanged
Christ Church. 67
to this day. Here is a monster gridiron on wheels, a curious relic of ancient cookery. Returning under the Hall staircase through the Bell-tower gateway, we reach the
Great Quadrangle, 264 feet by 261, the noblest and most spacious in Oxford, and forming part of Cardinal Wolsey's original plan, although the N. side was not completed till 1668. Great improvements have been effected here by recent restorations: notably the parapet and pinnacles surmounting the Hall, and the moulding of arches and ribs indicative of the original design for a grand cloister. The eastern terrace-walk leads us past the Deanery to a Tower gateway at the opposite angle, through which we enter Peckwater Quadrangle^ on the site of a certain Peck water's Inn. The present buildings were erected from the designs of Dean Aldrich about 1705. On the right is the Library ( a handsome classic edifice (built 1716-1761); open in Term time from 11 to 1 and from 2 to 4 : and during the summer vacation at other hours. (Fee id) It contains on its lower floor a choice collection of paintings, rich in specimens of the early Italian schools, and in the lobby are marble busts of the Four Georges and others. A catalogue may be procured at the library. On the upper floor is a very fine collection of books, the donations of Abp. Wake, Dean Aldrich, and other benefactors, with oriental coins, M.SS. of great historic interest, and other valuable curiosities. The smaller court beyond is Canterbury Quadrangle, its gateway opening into Merton-street, close to Corpus Christi College (see page 52).
Christ Church has been the foster-mother of many of the most celebrated Englishmen. To quote again from Mr. Arnold's work, Oxford and Cambridge : — " Look at our recent history : Lords Elgin and Dalhousie, Sir George Cornewall Lewis, [the] Sir Robert Peel, Canning, and Mr. Gladstone, are all Christ Church men. Among the statesmen of the past we may name Godolphin, Nottingham, Arlington, Wyndham, Carteret, Bolingbroke, Grenville, Lyttelton, Mansfield. One might construct a good portion of the history of England out of the livei
68 Alden's Oxford Guide.
of these great men. Perhaps the foremost name of Christ Church worthies will be con-ideied to he that of John Locke. And then there are such men as Men Jon>on and Sir Philip Sydney among poets, and Casaubon and Uaisford among scholars '' John and Charles Wesley, the famous leaders of the religious revival of last century, were members of the House ; and the late Dr. Pusey was for more than half-a-century one of the Canons in residence.
We now retrace our steps into the Great Quadrangle, and quit
the precincts of Christ Church by the grand gateway under
WEST FRONT OF CHRIST CHURCH.
31. "Tom Tower,"* so called because containing "Great Tom," a bell formerly belonging to Osney Abbey, but recast in 1680, and weighing nearly 18,000 lbs. It may be seen on application to the porter and payment of a fee of 2d. Every night at 9.5 " Tom " tolls a curfew of 101 strokes, as a signal for the closing of college gates. The E?itra?ice Gateway, well worthy of its old name, " The Faire Gate," was erected to the height of the two smaller towers by
* Should the visitor, by preference or chance, have entered Christ Church by "Tom" gate, he will find it necessary to reverse the order of the description, beginning with No. 31 on this page, and tracing back to No. 2b on page 60.
Christ Church.— Folly Bridge.
69
Cardinal Wolsey, whose statue is over the gateway j but the Bell- tower was added by Sir Christopher Wren, about 1682.
Beneath the noble archway let us turn to observe the very striking effect of the quadrangle, — Hall, Belfry, &c. — as seen from this point ; and then, stepping out "into St. Aldate's-street, gain our final impression of Christ Church from its grand West front (see engraving, p. 6S).
At the S. end of this front a lane (shown in our Plan) leads directly to the Broad Walk, Meadow Walks, and the river I sis (see p. 59).
Near this " Meadow Gate *' stood the South Gate of the City
christ church mealOW walk.
(demolished 1 77 1) ; and on the opposite side of the street, just below, is an ancient house with ornamented gables, believed to have been the palace of Bishop King, the last Abbot of Osney and first Bishop of Oxford,* 1542-57, whose tomb is in the S. aisle of the Cathedral (see p. 63). Further S., on the site of the present bridge over the Isis, was a tower said to have been occupied as an obser- vatory by Friar Bacon,* and afterwards leased to a citizen named Welcome, who added another storey, hence called " Welcome's
Engravings of Friar Bacon's Study and Bp. King's Palace are given in the chapter on " Old Oxford," appended to our Shilling edition.
70 Alden's Oxford Guide.
Folly." This bridge thus acquired the title of Folly Bridge, which it still retains, although the tower was pulled down in 1779. From this bridge an excellent view is obtained of the course of the river Isis towards Iffley, gay with barges ; also of the new University Boaihouse on its right bank. From the landing-stage pleasure parties start for Nuneham, and steam-boats ply frequently during the summer months.
32. St. Aldate's Church, facing Christ Church, was built about 13 18, enlarged and improved in 1862, and is now one of the most handsome, spacious, and commodious of the city churches. The spire, rebuilt in 1874, though small, is extremely elegant. Over the S. aisle, 1335-6, there was formerly an upper storey containing a Library for the use of students in Civil Law who frequented the adjacent Hall, once called Broadgates, but converted in 16 14 into
33. Pembroke College, endowed by Thomas Tesdale, Esq., and Richard Wightwick, B.D., and named after William, Earl of Pembroke, then Chancellor of the University, with whose consent the change was made. Camden the antiquary, Beaumont the dra- matist, and Pym the puritan, were members of Broadgates Hall.
The most conspicuous memory associated with Pembroke College is that of Dr. Johnson ; his rooms were on the second floor over the entrance-gateway. In the Library they have his bust by Bacon, and in the Hall his portrait by Reynolds, while some of his college exercises and prayers in manuscript are treasured among the archives. Yet Johnson, with all his learning and genius, was obliged, through want of means, to leave Oxford without taking a degree. George Whitefield the preacher, Blackstone the lawyer, Shenstone the poet, Sir Thomas Hrowne the metaphysician, and many other worthies were members of Pembroke College.
Almost all the present buildings are quite modern. The Chapel, a fair specimen of the heavy classic of the Georgian period, was begun in 1728, the year of Dr. Johnson's entrance into the college, and consecrated by Bp. Potter in 1732.
Its interior, hitherto plain even to ugliness, was in 1885 transformed into "a thing of beauty," from designs by Mr. C. E. Kemp, the decorator of the Pusey Chapel (page 82). The Reredos consists of beautifully veined pale marble
Post Office.— City Buildings.— Carfax. 71
columns enclosing a fine painting copied from a Rubens at Antwerp, over a super-altar of carved alabaster. The windows are filled with stained glass, and the walls and ceiling glow with gold and colours.
In 1829-30 the N. front of the college and other portions were
altered to the Gothic style; in 1854-6 a West wing was built,
the Fellows' buildings were added, and the Library, formerly used
as a Hall, was greatly improved. The new Hall, facing it, erected
in 1848, is one of the finest refectories in Oxford. Its stained
glass windows bear the arms of benefactors, and there are several
portraits on its walls. The fine lawn, and the luxurious growth of
creepers on the walls, give this quadrangle a very pretty effect.
The old Almshouses in St. Aldate's, opposite Christ Church, originally founded by Cardinal Wolsey. but not completed till 1834, have now (1889) been annexed to Pembroke College. In Pembroke-street, hard by, is situate St. Aldate's Rectory, with a large Room much used for meetings of religious and philanthropic societies.
Pursuing our course up St. Aldate's-street, we pass on our left the
34. Post Office, a handsome edifice in modern Gothic style, completed in 1880.* Still higher up, on the opposite side of the street, we come to a group of Municipal buildings, comprising
35. The Town Hall (1754), on the upper floor; on the ground floor, a Public Library and Reading Room (established 1854, and open free daily to strangers as well as residents), with offices for the Town Clerk, &c.
In the rear are the Council Chamber, containing several portraits ; the Police Court ; JVixofi's Grammar School for sons of freemen, founded in 1658 by John Nixon, an Alderman of the city, but now disused and falling into decay ; also a spacious Corn Exchange, erected 1865, and used not only on market days by the corn-dealers, but for political meetings musical entertainments, &c. A few steps northward, we arrive at the spot (X in Plan) called
Carfax (from the Latin, quatuor furcte ; French, gnatre
fourches). The two main thoroughfares, running N. to S. and E. to
* For time of despatch and delivery of mails, &c, see Alden's Oxford Almanack, price id,
72 Alden's Oxford Guide.
W., here cross at right angles. At Carfax stood in olden time the
picturesque Conduit erected in 1610 by Otho Nicholson for the
supply of the city with water. It was taken down in 1787, and
removed to Nuneham Park.* At the N.W. corner stands
36. St. Martin's (Carfax), the City Church, occupying the
site of the earliest parish church in Oxford of which there is any
record. It was granted in 1034 by Canute to the Benedictine
monks of Abingdon, and from time immemorial has been identified
with municipal affairs : the port-mote or town's meeting was held
in the churchyard until Henry II. 's reign, and civic business was
transacted on this spot for many centuries later ; while in the
mediaeval battles between " town " and " gown," St. Martin's was
the rallying-place for the citizens, as St. Mary's (20) was for the
students. The tower, recently restored, is probably of the time of
Edward III., and, with a font of the same date, is the only remnant
of the older church, which was rebuilt 1830-32.
In the year 1586, when preachers were scarce, and a Romish reaction was feared, the corporation of the city appointed lectureships at Carfax, contempo- raneously with the institution of the University sermons at St. Mary's (20) ; and the church has since that date been attended every Sunday by the Mayor and Corporation in their robes. At the E. end of the old church were two figures which struck the chimes with hammers. These "quarter-boys," as they were called, are now preserved with other relics in the Mayor's Parlour at the Town Hall (35). There was formerly also a covered shed at the E. end, built or rebuilt in 1546, called " Pennyless bench." Becoming a resort for idle and disorderly people, it was removed in 1747 ; but to this day the spot is a favourite rendezvous of " pennyless " loungers. It is proposed shortly to demolish the church for the improvement of the thoroughfare, the traffic at " Carfax " being often dangerously congested.
Proceeding \V., down Queen-street, and passing on our right a
new and handsome Temperance Hotel, called the " Wilberforce"
we arrive at a point (near the site of the West Gate) where four
streets meet — Castle street, leading- to the Castle (69), formerly
• See Appendix, " Old Oxford," page 114.
New Road Chapel.— New Inn Hall,
73
the W. entrance to the city (in which are the new " barracks " of the Salvation Army, opened 1888) ; the New Road, leading to the railway stations; St. Ebbe's-street, to the left (see 72); New- Inn-Hall-street, to the right.
The latter, once known as "Seven Deadly Sins lane," now abounds with places of worship, of which, by a curious coincidence, there are seven between New Road Chapel (37) at its southern, and George Street Chapel (43) facing its northern extremity, inclusive.
Nearly at the cor- ner, beyond the dis- used burying ground ofSt. Peter-le-Bailey's (see 39), is situated the oldest Noncon- formist place of wor- ship in Oxford, —
37. New Road Chapel. Thechurch was re-constituted in 1780 by a union of Presbyterians with an older body of Baptists founded in 16 18. The present building was opened in 1721, and enlarged and improved in 1819 and 1865. On the west side of New-Inn-Hall-street is a Meeting Boom for the "Brethren/' erected 1877, and a few yards N. a building till lately known as
33. New Inn Hall, one of the old "inns" or halls for students, formerly called Trilleck's Inn. This inn was purchased in 1369 by William of Wykeham, and by him conveyed to New College (12), by which society it was rebuilt in 1460. During the
NEW ROAD CHAPEL-
74 Alden's Oxford Guide.
Civil War, New Inn Hall was used by Charles I. as a mint, in which money was coined from the liberal contributions of college plate. A new wing was added in 1832 ; and a Chapel for the use of students was erected in 1868 by the late Principal, Dr. Cornish, at whose decease in 1887 the Hall ceased to have an independent existence, and it is now closed. Hard by, on land anciently belonging to St. Frideswide (see p. 61), is the Church of
39. St. Peter-le-Bailey, built 1872-4. The original site was at the S.W. corner of the street, where a church is known to have existed in the twelfth century, having been granted to St. Frideswide in a charter of Henry I.'s reign. It derived its name from its situation within the 'bailey' of the Castle (69). In 1706, the church fell down, and the edifice which succeeded it, erected in 1740, was demSlished in 1872 3 for the widening of the thorough- fare. The new church is designed in the style of the 14th century, having a square tower with turret. Mr. Basil Champneys, architect.
Opposite the church will be observed an old stone gateway, a relic of St. Marys College, founded in 1435, but dissolved in Queen Elizabeth's time. Here in 1498 Erasmus prepared his edition of the Greek Testament. The gateway now leads lo Frewen Hall, the house occupied by the Prince of Wales during his residence at Oxford.
A little further northward, the graceful and lofty spire of the
40. Wesley Memorial Chapel arrests our attention. In the early days of Methodism, which claims Oxford as its birthplace, its founder John Wesley (see 64) held preaching services in a house nearly opposite New Inn Hall. In 181 8 a chapel was opened on a site in the rear of the present chapel ; on 28th June, 1877, the memorial stones of this building were laid ; and dedication services were held on the nth October, 1878. The chapel was designed by Mr. C. Bell in the Early Decorated style, and forms a con-
Methodist Chapels.— Union Society.
75
spicuous addition to the architectural beauties of the city. A very efficient School for Boys is conducted in school and class-rooms at the rear ; and the old chapel is now divided into lecture-rooms, &c, a portion being occupied by the Central School for Girls. Making a short detour to the right, a few steps bring us to the
41. Methodist Free Church, built 1870-1 ; having a large room in the basement, used as a Sunday School and for lectures, &c. The society was founded by a se- cession from vthe Methodist body in ]849,andhassince become incor- porated with the United Methodist Free Churches. Opposite are the premises of the
42. Oxford Union Society, a social literary oxford umion society's rooms.
and debating Club for University men, founded T823. Its fiftieth anniversary was celebrated in 1873 by a public banquet, at which speeches were delivered by many of its most eminent members, past and present, including the Marquis of Salisbury (Chancellor of the University), Lord Selborne, the late Archbp. Tait, Cardinal Manning, and several leading members of both parties in the State. The Library, to the right of our engraving, was built in 1856 for a Debating-room, from designs by Messrs. Deane and Woodward in
76 Alden's Oxford Guide.
the Early Decorated style, and is adorned with remarkable frescoes illustrative of the exploits of King Arthur and his Knights, the work of the late Mr. D. G. Rossetti and other famous amateurs; the buildings on the left comprise a Smoking-room and Reading- rooms, with other offices ; the Debates are now held in a new and more spacious detached building, erected in 1878 from designs by Mr. A. Waterhouse, further to the right. The society numbers over 1,000 members, besides some 6,000 life -members. At night the Debating-room is brilliantly illuminated with the electric light.
Retracing a few steps, and resuming our northward course, we notice on our right the
Liberal Hall, opened on 9th Jan., 1879, by Sir W. Harcourt, and now the head-quarters of the Oxford Reform Club j on our left the Engine House of the Volunteer Fire Brigade ; and facing us the
43. Congregational Church, built in 1832 in the Early English style, and improved in 1S60. In the basement is a School-room, and at the rear, entered from Gloucester Green, is a well designed building, erected 1868, in which is conducted the Central School for Boys, under the control of a committee of citizens and members of the University. Nearly opposite the Chapel is the
43a. Oxford High School for Boys, a handsome and picturesque structure, one of the most effective designs of its talented and popular architect, Mr. T. G. Jackson.
This enterprise was inaugurated at a public meeting held 9th Jan. 1878 ; the first stone of the building was formally laid by the late Prince Leopold on the 13th April, 18S0; and it was publicly opened on 15th September, 1881. The site and a large endowment were given by the City of Oxford ; and the governing body of the school comprises representatives of the City and Univer- sity. Several scholarships have been founded by private beneficence ; the late Prof. T. II, Green was one of the governors and a generous donor to the school.
St. George's Church. — Worcester College. 77
Higher up George-street, adjoining an old terrace (1661), is the 43£. New Theatre, opened in February, 1S86; Mr. H. G. W. Drinkwater, architect. The Theatre seats about goo persons, and is well lighted and ventilated. Lower down is
44. St. George's Church, built 1849, as a Chapel of Ease
for the parish of St. Mary Magdalen (59).
Behind the church, accessible through a narrow lane lower down the street, is Gloucester Green, where a Cattle Market is periodically held : commodious bindings, pens, &c, for the accommodation of dealers, have been recently con- structed. At its W. end stands a parochial boys' school : at the E. end is the Central Boys' School, mentioned p. 76 : the City Gaol (erected 1789, demolished 1S79) occupied the centre. At the South- West angle a neat brick and stone building was erected in 1887 by Mr. Bruton, architect, for Cutler Boulter V Medical Dispensary. An outlet at the N.W. corner leads to
45. Worcester College, on the site of an ancient institution called Gloucester Hall, founded in 1283 by John Gifford, Baron of Brimesfield, for Benedictine monks
fl from Gloucester. The Hall was in 1560 conveyed K^.'^N^rjl to the President and Fellows of St. John's College (55), and was then known as St. John Baptist's Hall. After long decay, it was refounded in 17 13 by Sir arms of Thomas Ccokes, of Bentley Pauncefoot, Worcester- shire, Tor the education of students from his own county. In 1864-70 the interior of the Chapel was gorgeously deco- rated in the Romanesque style, with painting, gilding, alabaster, marbles, and mosaics, after designs by the late Mr. Burges. The decoration forms a complete scheme illustrative of the Te Deum and the Benedicite — Man and Nature uniting in Divine worship. The beautiful volumes of the Old and New Testament on the lectern will reward a close inspection. Connected with the Chapel by a stone-vaulted piazza, is the Hall, a fine room, elegantly decorated, and adorned with portraits : and over the arcade is the Library.
78 Alden's Oxford Guide.
containing a valuable collection of books. On the S. (left hand)
side of the large Quadrangle are some vestiges of old Gloucester
Hall, in the form of separate monastic houses. Nearly at the S.W.
corner we enter through a narrow arch the Gardens, usually
optn free to the public, affording pleasant shaded walks in summer,
and good skating on the lake in winter.
The street leading eastward from Worcester College to the Randolph Hotel is named Beaumont-street, from the royal palace of Beaumont, built by Henry I., the residence of Henry II. and other monarchs, and the birthplace of Richard Cceur-de-Lion, which stood near this spot.
Leaving Worcester College, we pursue our way N. along Wralton-
street, whence the second turning on the left leads to the
46. Scotch Church, built in 1879 by tne late Rev- H- C B. Bazely, B.C.L., "the Oxford Evangelist," whose memoir, pub- lished by Macmillan, is of unusual interest. Since Mr. Bazely's death it has been used as a meeting-room by the "Friends." Farther down Walton-street, we observe on the right
47. St. Paul's, a district church, built in the Ionic order by
subscription in 1836 : an apse has since been added.
The memorial window to Canon Ridgway, representing the Sermon on the Mount, contains among its figures portraits of the Canon and some of his con- temporaries. Five other memorial windows were added in 1888.
Nearly opposite the church are the extensive range of buildings
completed in 1830 for the
48. Clarendon Press, or University Printing Office, removed here from the old Clarendon Building in Broad-street (7). This establishment is one of the largest in the world. The S. wing, de- nominated the "Bible Side" is devoted principally to the printing of Bibles and Prayer Books, for sale at the depots of the Press in Oxford, London, and Edinburgh, as well as for the British and Foreign Bible Society and the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. The issue of the Revised Bible in 1881 and 1885
(fmu
Clarendon Press.— St. Barnabas, 79
gave striking proof of the resources of this establishment. In the
N. wing — generally called the " Learned Side," — works of a learned
and educational character are chiefly produced.
In the large Machive-room, 200 ft. by jo ft., and rooms adjoining, 55 printing machines and five roding machines are at work by steam power. There are also stereotype, electrotype, and type Foundries, engineer's department, ink and roller manufactories, ware-rooms, drying-room, &c. A new feiture is the drying of printed sheets, for books which are required quickly, by means of hot air kept in motion by a steam screw-propeller 4 ft. in diameter. There is also a photo- graphic department, in which fac-similes of MSS. and other illustrations are printed by various processes. In the Press are preserved the matrices for founts of Greek, old English, and Oriental type, some of which were presented to the University in 1669 by Bp. Fell. Stereotype and electrotype plates, and formes in movable type, are kept in a fire-proofroom specially built in 1886, which is the largest in England. In the quadrangle are the residences of Mrs. Combe, the widow of a former superintendent (mentioned below), and the present Controller of the Press, Mr. Horace Hart, upon whom devolves the supreme management in conjunction with a board of Delegates appointed by the Uni- versity, and from whom orders for admission can be procured. The late venerable Superintendent of the Press, Mr. Thomas Combe, founded a district Church dedicated to
49. St. Barnabas, opened Oct. 19, 1869. It is situated on the E. bank of the canal, near the \V. end of Cardigan-street, in the populous neighbourhood called Jericho ; and is remarkable as a type of the Lombardic style of architecture, built in the basilica form, with apsidal East end and lofty detached campanile. Archi- tect, Mr. Blomfield. The frequent services in this church are distinguished for high ritual.
The altar is canopied with an elaborate " baldachino," and before it is suspended a handsome cross of open-work metal, set with brilliants. Portraits of Bp. Wilberforce, the founder, and others, are introduced in the carved capitals of the pillars.
Further north is St. Sepulchre's Cemetery, with a neat chapel ; and nearly opposite this is Walton Street Wesleyan Chapel, built in 1883. Passing along Kingston road to its N. extremity, at the W. end of St. Margaret's road we reach
St. Margaret's Church, opened in 1884, but at present incomplete. It is connected with SS. Philip and James' Church (51), by whose clergy the services are conducted. The E. window
80 Alden's Oxford Guide.
is the work of amateurs ; and the clerestory windows, by Burlison and Grylls, contain effigies of local saints.
Extending to the W. and X.W. of this district is a large level space known as Port Meadow (i.e. the '"Town Meadow"), the possession of the freemen of the city of Oxford from the time of the Domes lay survey. Biusey, associated with St. Frideswide (see 29), and Godstawy the burial place of Fair Rosamond, are on its borders. Eastward, to the south of Observatory-street (see Plan) is the
50. Radcliffe Observatory, built 1772-5, from funds applied to the purpose by the trustees of Dr. Radcliffe (see 18, 21, and 53), on a piece of land, nine acres in extent, presented by the third Duke of Marlborough. The octagonal tower is copied from the Temple of the Winds at Athens, and is surmounted by a globe, borne by figures of Hercules and Atlas. The buildings comprise a Library and Lecture Room, and contain some of the best modern astronomical instruments ; there is also a dwelling-house for the Observer, who is appointed by the Radcliffe Trustees. Among the men most distinguished in astronomical science who have held the post of Radcliffe Observer, may be mentioned Professor Rigaud and Mr. Johnson. The grounds are entered by a gateway in the Woodstock road, and not far northward, on the opposite side, is
51. SS. Philip and James' Church (erected i860, spire added 1866). The design is characteristic of its architect, Mr. Street, being in the Early Decorated style with some continental modifications. Columns of polished granite divide the broad nave from the aisles ; the apsidal chancel is roofed with stone, and its reredos and other decorations are tasteful and elaborate. South of the church is a monastic-looking edifice known as
52. The Convent, 1866-8 (Buckeridge, architect), occupied by an Anglican sisterhood styled " The Society of the Holy and Undivided Trinity."
The society was established for the threefold purpose of prayer, work under
Wycliffe Hall.— Ladies' Halls.— Infirmary. 31
the direction of the clergy, and preparing young girls for various station* in life. It conducts a boarding school for young ladies; an orphanage, chiefly for Oxford children, who are triined for lo<ne<:ic service ; and a day-school with Kindergarten ; besides evening classes, Sunday classes, &c.
The houses in this neighbourhood, in ard near the Bmbury and Woodstock roads and bordering on the Parks, built loi the most part in the villa style, are occup;ed chiefly by professors and resident members of the University, and the wealthier class of the citizens. On the Banbury-roady nearly facing the E. end of Bevington-road (see Plan) is Wykeham Hcuse, occupied during his residence at Oxford by the late Prince Leopold, Dike of Albany, whose sudden death (Mar. 28th, 1884) was so universally lamented (see p. 63). The next house S. is
52#. Wycliffe Hall, a Theological Institution for candidates for Holy Orders, established on Evangelical Church principles in 1877 : a Chapel and other buildings were opened 31st Jan., 1882.
52b. Lady Margaret Hall (founded 1879) and St. Hugh Hall (founded 1886) for ladies, are situated in Norham Gardens, branching from this road.
Still further southward, on the W. side of the same road, is a red brick house in the style known as " Queen Anne," built in 1879 for the
52c. High School for Girls. Mr. T. G. Jackson, architect.
On the Woodstock-road, adjoining the south side of the Observatory (50) grounds, is the
53. Radcliffe Infirmary, opened in 1770. This institution has probably been productive of more truly beneficent results than any other of the foundations of Dr. Radcliffe (see Nos. 18, 21, 50).
Of late years many considerable additions and improvements have been made in the buildings and arrangements, including a new Fever Ward opened in 1870. It is mainly supported by subscriptions, donations, and colllections at churches and chapels ; from the latter source the income has been augmented by the establishment in 1873 of a special Hospital Sun lay Fund. 'I he Hegant Chapel on the X. side of the grounds was built in 1864 at the cost of the late Mr. T. Combe, of the University Press (4S). A little to the S. of the Infirmary is
53tf. Somerville Hall for ladies, opened 1879, and enlarged in 1881. In 1886-7 a large new block of buildings was erected to the west of the older house, from designs by Mr. H. Wilkinson Moore, for the accommodation of additional students.
1890.] €
82 Alden's Oxford Guide.
53£. St. Aloysius' (Roman Catholic) Church and Presbytery.
The Church was opened in 1875 by Cardinal Manning. It is a lofty and well-proportioned building in the Early English style, with apodal sanctuary at its W. end, now richly a 1 >rned with a Rereios comprising some fifty figures of saints in canopied niches. The splendid hisrh altar was presented by the Marquis of Bute ; and a beautifully carved stone pulpit was added by sub- scription in 1888. On the other side of the road stands
54. St. Giles' Church, rebuilt in the 13th century. The windows of the tower present an unusual and interesting example of early " plate tracery," a small lancet being pierced above two others under a pointed arch. About the year 1120 there was a church on this spot dedicated to St. Giles, who was regarded as the patron saint of churches so situated beyond the gates of towns. The vicarage was instituted by Hugh, Bp. of Lincoln, in 1200; the living being vested in the nunnery of Godstow, near Oxford. It was subsequently purchased by Sir Thomas White, founder of St. John's College (55), to which it still belongs.
N. of the Church a Paiochial Room has recently been built from designs in the Tudor style by Messrs. Wilkinson and Moore.
At St. Giles' Church the two roads unite, and form the broad thoroughfare of St. Giles' -street, one of the finest approaches to the city. The trees on either side, though sadly injured by severe gales, still convey the impression rather of a Parisian boulevard than the street of an English town ; while the general effect is heightened bv the assemblage of public buildings at the S. extremity, conspicuous among which is the Martyrs' Memorial (58).
Leaving St. Giles' Church, and proceeding S., we may notice on our right the premises No. 61, St. Giles'-street, now occupied by the
Pusey Memorial House, opened in 1884 by the late Bp. Mackarness. The institution comprises a Theological Library, of which the collection of the late Dr. Pusey forms the nucleus, and (on the upper storey) a Chapel, decorated by Mr. C. E. Kemp.
The object of its promoters was to secure by trust an institution manned by a body of clergy who would devote themselves to the study and teaching of theology, so that dogmatic teaching may be perpetuated in a place which must always be a centre of intellectual and moral life.
On our left, half-hidden behind the elms on its terrace walk, is
St. John's College. 83
55. St. John's College. This venerable building was originally a house of Cistercian monks, made over by them to Abp. Chichele (see t8), and by him converted into St Bernard's College in 1436. The N., S., and W. sides of the first quadrangle form portions of this ancient foundation.
At the dissolution of monasteries Henry VII T. presented the house to Christ Church The Litter society conveyed it n 1555 to Sir Thomas White, a native of Rickmans worth, knight and alde>man of the city ol London, by *h"m, under a license granted by Kinn Philip and Queen Mary, it was devoted as " a (. ollege for divinity, philosophy, and the arts. 10 the praise and honour of G< d, the Virgin Mary, and St lohn the Baptist.'' White was a clothier, and a benefactor of Merchant Taylors' School, whence many ol the scholars of St. John's aie elected.
Entering the hoary'gateway, under the old statue of St. Bernard, we find ourselves in the First or original Quad- rangle. On our left is the Hall, the ancient refectory of St. Bernard's, built in 1502, but com- pletely metamorphosed in the Georgian period. It contains portraits of the Founder, Abps. Laud and Juxon, Sir Walter Raleigh, King George III., &c. Over the fireplace is a singular picture of arms ofSt. john's. St. John Baptist, stained in scagliola by Lambert Gorius. Beneath the Hall is a vaulted crypt of the 15th century, in good preserva- tion. Close by is the Kitchen, which with its upperstoreys was built in 161 3. East of the Hall is the Chapel, consecrated in 1530, altered at the Restoration, restored 1843, and re-decorated 1872-3. At its N.E. angle is a beautiful little Mortuary Chapel, built in 1662 by Dr. Baylie to receive the remains of his son. Sir Thomas W7hite the f >under, and Abps. Laud and Juxon, are buried beneath the communion table. Through a passage with elegant vaulted ceiling we reach the Second Quadrangle, completed about 1635 Dv Archbp. Laud (see 20), then President of the college. We cannot
84
Alden's Oxford Guide.
fail to admire the picturesque effect of the colonnades or piazzas designed in the style of the Renaissance, probably by Inigo Jones. The bronze statues of King Charles I. and his Queen Henrietta
Maria, by Fanelli, a Flor- entine, are also worthy of notice. The S. and E. sides of this court are oc- cupied by the Library, the £. wing of which was added by Laud.
The Library consists of two fine rooms, and besides a good collection of books contains a curious portrait of Charles I., with the whole Book of Psalms written in the lines of the face ; and some interesting relics of At>p. Laud, such as the cap worn by him at his execution, his walking-stick, diaries, &c. A nong the treasures are also some ancient vestments and ecclesiastical furniture. On the 30th August, 1639, when Laud was Chancellor of the Univer- sity, King Charles and his Queen were royally entertained in the newly-op.-ntd Library.
Leaving this quad, by a
passage with fan-traceried
roof and quaintly carved
gateway, st. john's ga-.dens. doors, we enter through
an iron gate the beautiful Gardens, open free to the public. The
extremely picturesque E. or Garden Front of the Library affords
many a charming subject for the artist's pencil.
St. John's.— The Taylor Institution.
85
The Gardens occupy about five acres, and exhibit the results of centuries of careful cultivation. They have always been a favourite resort of visitors, who are much impressed with the scene of quiet loveliness which opens on the view in this delightful retreat, only a few steps from the thoroughfare of St. Giles', and in the very heart of the city. An open-air Masonic fete in these gardens is usually one of the most memorable features of Commemoration week.
Amongst the worthies of St. John's, besides the three founders, as they may be called (Chichele, White, and Laud), may
be mentioned Abp. Juxon, Laud's successor ■flb
for a time in the restored primacy, Abraham Tucker the metaphysician, Shirley the dramatist, and Wheatly the divine.
In 18801 the college was en- larged by a considerable extension of the front northward, in general harmony with its older portions.
The conspicuous building nearly opposite the S. end of St. John's is
56. The Taylor Institution, forming the E. wing of a grand pile in the Ionic order, of which the cen- tral portion and W. wing, entered from Beaumont-street, are denomi- nated the University Galleries.
This institution was founded and endowed by Sir Robert Taylor, an eminent architect and alderman of London, who died in 1792, leaving by will a considerable sum for the erecting of a proper edifice, and for estab- lishing a foundation " for the teaching and improving the European languages." The building, erected 1845 8 from an admirable design by Cockerell, is entered from St. Giles' between columns surmounted by allegorical figures of France, Italy, Germany, and Spain. It comprises a spacious Library (containing an excellent collection of philological works) and Reading Room, open free to members of the University from 1 1 to 5, and also in the evenings during Term; besides several Lecture-rooms, and apartments for a Librarian. The Taylorian Profes- sorship of Modern European Languages has been superseded by a University
WINDOW IN GARDEN FrtONT,
st. John's college.
86
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Professorship of Comparative Philology, held hy the distinguished Max Muller'; and connected with this institution are Teachers of the French, German, Italian, and Spanish languages, whose lectures are open to University men for a small fee ; also annual open scholarships and exhibitions.
The Uni- versity Galleries, entered by the grand portico, op- posite the Randolph Hotel(57), are open to the public from 12 till 4 daily (fee 2d. ; Satur- day sfree)* They were erected partly from a bequest of Dr. Ran- dolph, for the recep-
the taylo* institution. tion of the
Pomfret Statues, and for paintings and other curiosities which might from time to time be left to the University. Recent ex-
* Students who have permission from the Lincoln Professor of Archaeology or from the Prvfteeor of Fine Art, axe admitted from io to iz. Closed during August.
The University Galleries.
87
tensive enlargements give much additional space for the collections, providing accommodation also for the Professor of Archaeology.
In the principal Sculpture Gallery on the ground floor are a large number of Casts from the Antique, s i arranged as to illustrate the various periods of Greek art, as well as most ol the models of Sir Francs Chant ny's works, presented to the University by his widow. Here, and in the basement, are also gathered together the valuable cla>sic "marbles," hitherto scattered in diffeient repositories and in some cases hidden in obscure and out-of-the-way corners.
THE RANDOLPH HOTEL,
To the Pomfret Statues (presented by the Dowager Countess of Pomfret in 1755) are now added the Arundel Marbles, consisting of Greek and Roman inscribed tablets, including the celebrated Ia> ion Chronicle, collected by Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, and presented by his grandson (Henry Howard) in 1677. with others given at various dates by Selden (1654), G. Wheler (1676), Dawkins, Rawlinson, Hyde Clarke, &c. The sepulchral and votive tablets, arranged at the E. end, are of great interest. Here also is a set of electrotypes of Ancient Coins, B.C. 700-280. On the first floor is a Picture Gallery, 100 ft. by 28 ft., containing an interesting Art Collection, which is frequently
88 Alden's OxforcTGuide,
receiving additions. Here are displayed some valuable original etchings by Rembrandt, Vandyck. &c, with curious p intsby Albert ! Hirer and others from the Douce Collection (Bodleian). There are also some good examples of the early Italian painters and others. A fire -proof gallery on the same floor contains the famous collection of 190 original sketches by Michel Angelo and Raffaello, purchased for ;£7,oco, the greater part of which was contributed by the Earl of Eldon. There are also a number of choice drawings by J. M. W. Turner, the gift of Mr. Ruskin (first Slade Professor of Art), who also founded, furnished, and endowed the Ruskin Drawing School, which occupies the ground floor of the West Wing, and is enriched by a precious collection of examples and studies generously presented by Mr. Ruskin for the use of students. A portion of the basement is appropriated to the purposes of a School of Art in connection with the Science and Art Department. Opposite is
57. The Randolph Hotel, erected in 1864, and forming a good example of the adaptation of the Gothic style to domestic architecture (see p. 87). During the summer season its extensive accommodation is taxed to the utmost by numerous visitors. The building on the opposite side of St. Giles' is the West front of Balliol College (60) ; while right before us stands the exceedingly beautiful Memorial Cross known as
58. The Martyrs' Memorial, one of the earliest, and justly considered one of the best works of its eminent designer, the late Sir G. G. Scott, R.A. The architect took for his general model the crosses erected by King Edward I. in memory of his Queen Eleanor ; and it may safely be said that not one of these surpassed the Martyrs' Memorial in beauty of design or symmetry of pro- portions. On the N. face of the base, the following inscription tells in brief the purpose of the structure : —
"To the Glory of God, and in grateful commemoration of His servants, Thomas Cranmer, Nicholas Ridley, Hugh Latimer. Prelates of the Church of England, who, near this spot, yielded their bodies to be burned : bearing witness to the sacred truths which they had affirmed and maintained against the errors of the Church of Rome ; and rejoicing that to them it was given not only to believe in Christ, but also to suffer for His sake, This monument was erected by public subscription in the year of our Lord God, mdcccxli."
Martyrs' Memorial,
89
THE MARTYRS' MEMORIAL AND BALUOL OOLLEtfE.
90 Alden's Oxford Guide.
The statues of the three martyrs (by H. Weekes) are strikingly
characteristic. Cranmer, facing N., is represented holding his
Bible of the greater volume, marked on its cover, " May, 1541 :"
this being the first year of the circulation of the Bible by royal
authority, for which the Archbishop had lonj; and earnestly pleaded.
The attitude of Ridley's statue (E.) fitly represents the stedfast-
ness with which he fought the good fight of faith, and witnessed a
good confession. Facing W., his arms crossed meekly over his
breast, Latimer appears stooping under the burden of fourscore
years, the very image of submission to the will of God and holy
resolution to do it.
The first stone of the Memorial was laid by Dr. Plumptre, then Master of University College, on the 19th May, 1841, when the Tractarian or Anglo- Catholic movement was in its early vigour ; and the oiiginators of the proposal to erect in Oxford a memorial to the "Protestant martyrs" met with much opposition. The work was nevertheless carried to completion, and it has now stood for nearly half-a-century, a protest against Romish error, and at the same time a witness to the growth of that party in the Church who have been zealously labouring to revive and popularize tenets and practices against which the martyrs protested unto death. (See pages 2, 9, 44.)
59. St. Mary Magdalen Church, adjoining, is also associated with the martyrs, its North Aisle having been rebuilt in the year 1841 as a part of the memorial. Emblems of the martyrs are used , in its architectural embellishments; and in the interior is preserved the door of the cell in Bocardo* in which they were confined. The S. aisle was probably completed in the reign of Edward II. Its beautiful open parapet, niched and canopied buttresses, and decorated windows, were carefully restored some years since. The tower was rebuilt in 1511-31, of materials brought, it is said, from Rewley Abbey. It con- tains a fine peal of six bells, re-cast at the expense of the late
* See pages i, 2, and 99 ; also the Appendix.
Balliol College. 91
Mr. Cavell, and on the W, side is a figure of the patron saint.
The interior of this church has lately been greatly improved.
We have now returned to our original starting-point (see page i) ; but there remain several objects of much interest which must be seen before the visitor can be said to have completed his tour through the city. So we turn once more into Broad-street, and arrive in a minute or two at the gateway of
60. Balliol College, the front of which extends westward to
the end of Broad-street, and northward in St Giles's beyond the
Martyrs' Memorial (58). The grand S. front was built in 1867-9
on the site of the old buildings, from designs by Waterhouse, at the
expense of Miss Brakenbury, a munificent benefactor, who has also
endowed eight scholarships. The plain classic portion W. of the
Master's house, called Fisher's Buildings, was erected in 1769 and
refaced in 1876 ; the portion E. of Magdalen Church was built in
1825, and the more northern front in the Gothic style added 1S52-3.
Balliol College was founded between 1260 and 1269, by Sir John de Balliol, father of the Scottish king of that name. At his death his plans were carried out by his widow Devorgulla or Dervorguilla, of Galloway, whose original statutes, dated 12S2, are still preserved. .Balliol thus claims precedence of all others as a collegiate foundation, although many years prior to its establishment students had been wont to assemble in Oxford, lodging either in private houses or in inns or halls, usually under the supervision of a Master of Arts.
Entering the First Quadrangle under the stately tower, we have before us on the N. side the Library (built 1430-80, and refitted by Wyatt in 1722), containing many early editions of the Bible, with some beautiful illuminated manuscripts; and adjoining this on the E. is the elegant Chapel, rebuilt 1S56-7 from Mr. Butter- field's design. Its entrance doorway, E.- window, alabaster reredos, and screen of iron and stone, are much admired. In its windows is preserved some original stained glass of the 14th century, as well as later Flemish designs by Van Linge. On the W. side of the quadrangle is the old Dining Ball, built about 1432, and now
92 Alden's Oxford Guide.
fitted up as a Library and Reading-room for undergraduate mem- bers. The windows contain some interesting fragments of old stained glass, dated 1533. A passage to the left leads to a fine open space with grass-plots, shaded with elms. On its E. side we have a charming view of the chapel, and at its N. end is the very handsome and lofty Hall, opened 1877. It is entered by a flight of steps, the doorway being surmounted by an ornamented gable with open tracery. On the ground-floor are the Buttery, Common- room, and Laboratory, as well as the Kitchen, which communicates by lifts with the Dining Hall above.
Balliol, comparatively obscure until modern times, is now highly distinguished for the intellectual attainments of its members, of whom it usually furnishes a large quota to the class lists. The matriculation examination, which has to be passed by candidates for admission, is unusually "stiff," and it is understood that students at Balliol shall be contented with nothing short of "honours" at the University examinations. One cause of this high standard is to be found in the system of "open scholarships" instituted here by Dr. Jenkyns, who presided over this college for thirty-five years. Of the numerous "exhibitions " offered at Balliol, fourteen were founded by Mr. Snell, a native of Ayrshire, for the benefit of students from the University of Glasgow. Other benefactions for Scottish students were left by Bp. Warner. Among the celebrated Scotsmen who have been thus introduced into a career of eminence, may be mentioned Dr. Adam Smith, Lockhart, Sir William Hamilton, Dr. Baillie the physician, I nglis the lawyer, Lord Moncrieff, and Dr. Tait, the late primate of England, whose portrait will be found, with several others, in the Hall. John Wycliffe the Reformer was a Fellow of this college, and became Master about 1360 ; his portrait, after the original Lutterworth, is just inside the Hall door (see 14, 20, 26). A recent number of the Bookseller notes the following interesting coinci- dences : — " The first translation of the Bible into English was made in 1380 by John Wiclif, Master of Balliol College, Oxford. The first reduction in the price of printing the Bible was made in 1841 by the Queen's printer, Mr. William Spottiswoode, who was a fellow of Balliol College. The first penny edition of the New Testament was issued in 1880 by Mr. Benjamin West, bookbinder, a tenant of Balliol." Humphrey Duke of Gloucester (see 6, 19), and Tunstall, Bp. of London and Durham ; the gentle Evelyn, Kyrle, the "man of Ross" immortal i7ed by Pope, and Southey the poet, are among the distinguished "Balliol" men of the past. A beautiful window has been placed in the Reading Room to the memory of the late Professor of Poetry (J. C. Shairp) ; and in the Hall are fine portraits of Mr. A. W. Peel, Speaker of the House of Commons, and the late Robert Browning, the poet, both in D.C.L. robes.
Trinity College.
93
Adjoining Balliol College on the E. is
61. Trinity College, conspicuous for its gates of iron-work, now supported by massive stone piers, a copy of those in Park- street, opposite Wadham (8), represented in our engraving, p. 94.
Looking through these gates (adorned with the arms of the Earl of Guildford and the founder) the visitor will be delighted with the sweet beauty o( the New Quadrangle, the buildings of which were completed in 1887 from the extremely picturesque designs of Mr. T. G. Jackson. On the E. side is a fine range of rooms for students, and on the N., adjoining the chapel, a new house for the President. The whole forms a noteworthy contribution to the architectural
CHAPEL AND LIBRARY. BALLIOL COLLEGE.
beauties of Oxford ; the gables being specially admirable, and the decorative carving (by Farmer and Brindley) exhibiting much freshness and variety. The spacious lawn, with its fruit-trees full of blossom in the early summer, gives peculiar charm to the scene.
The college was founded in 1554. and dedicated to " the Holy and Undivided Trinity," by Sir Thomas Po,>e, ofTittenhanger, Herts, privy councillor to King Henry VIII. and Queen Mary, and a special friend of Sir Thomas More ; on the site of an ancient house of Benedictines calltd Durham College, founded by Richard de Hoghton Prior and the monks of the Cathedral Convent of Durham, and suppressed at the dissolution of monasteries.
The Chapel, facing us, is open free in summer term from 9 to 6.
94
Alden's Oxford Guide.
It is a well-proportioned building, completed in 1694 by Dr. Bathurst, President of the college ; and its screen and altar-piece exhibit some beautiful wood-carving by Grinling Gibbons.
On the N. side is a fine tomb with recumbent effigies in alabaster of the founder and his wife. In 1SS5 the S. windows were filled with stained glass at the cost of the present President, Rev. H. G. Woods (then Bursar).
On the E. side of the Second Quadrangle is the original Library of Dur- ham College, founded by Richard de Bury, Bishop of that see, who died in 1343. Its windows con- tain some curious old glass. Opposite is the Hall, rebuilt 1618-20. A statue of the founder may be seen over the door, and his portrait, with that of his third wife Lady Elizabeth Paulet, Abp. Sheldon, Wart on the poet (who has left an interesting memoir of the founder), and other worthies, adorn the walls. The 7 hvd Quadrangle, entered un- der the bell-staircase, was de-igned by Sir Christo- pher Wren, and built 1667-1682 ; S. wing al- EAST gate of trinity college. teredi728. Its E. side is
open to the Garden, which, with its charming avenue, the " Lime Walk"\\& broad grass-plots, and ancient yews, affoids a dtl.ghtful retreat. Through the gates at its E. end may be seen the front of Wadham College (8). Leaving the Gnrdens by the new gateway, we find ourselves again in the first quadrangle. At Trinitv College is preserved an antique chalice of silver gilt, heautifully engraved, with a gold paten, Originally belonging to St. Alban's -vbbev, but presented to this college by iis founder. Among Trinity worthies may be named Abp. Sheldon (see page 5), Seth Ward. Gellibrand the mathematician, Ludlow and Ireton the Republicans, Sir John Denham, Warton, and the celebrated third Earl of Shaftesbury, author of "Characteristics." In 1878,
Exeter College. 95
Cardinal Newman was elected an honorary Fellow of this college, of which he was a member in his undergraduate days.
Almost adjoining the gates is a picturesque old academic hall, now a private residence, but still known as Kate! Ha!!, so named after a certain Dr. Kettel, by whom it was founded on the site of an older house known as Perilous Ha!!, after Dr. Perles, its founder. Just opposite stands the N. front of
62. Exeter College, which we enter from "theTurl," formerly a narrow opening through the city wall into the High-street.
It derives its name from its foundation in 13 15, by Walter de Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, whose design was frustrated liy his untimely death. It was, however, incorporated by charter of Queen Elizabeth in 1565, when Sir W. Petre contributed munificently towards a second endowment. The W. front, by which we enter, is 220 feet in length : its gateway was rebuilt in 1595, 1703, and 1834, at which latter date the whole front was newly faced.
Entering the large Quadrangle, the first object which strikes the
visitor is the magnificent Chapel on the N. side, built 1856-9.
This Chapel [open free to visitors daily in term time from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.) is a masterpiece of the late Sir G. G. Scott, and recalls some of the finest mediaeval work of the continent, espechlly the Sai/ife Chapelle, in Paris, to which it bears considerable resemblance. The doorway has on either side statues of Rp. Stapledon and Sir W. Petre ; the sculpture in its tympanum represents Our Lord giving the charge to St. Peter. In niches surmounting the buttresses are figures of the twelve apostles Inside, the richly sculptured and inlaid screen, stained glass windows, elegant clustered columns with carved capitnls, lofty groined roof, choice wood-carving, and the harmonious effect of the E. end, with steps of Devonshire marble and exquisite mosaics by Salviati, combine to form a beautiful reproduction of the Early Decorated period of Gothic architecture. Canopied stalls in carved oak from designs by Mr. Bodley, R.A , were added in 1SS4. This fine work, extending nearly the whole length of the chapel on either side, greatly enhances the rich effect of the interior ; but its style is somewhat more rigid and conventional than that adopted by the late Sir G. G. Scott in the other decorative work.
N.E. of the Chapel are the new buildings (1S55-7) fronting Broad-street.
Facing the Chapel, on the South side of the quad., is the Hall, built by Sir John Acland in 1618, with its fine timber roof and perpendicular windows affording a good example of a college hall.
In the Hall are portraits of the Founder ; £ir William Petre and Char'es I., benefactors; Abps Seckerand Marsh, Rps. Hull, Conybeare. Hall, and Prideaux; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, 1672, SirJ.T. Coleridge, Dr. Kennicott the Hebrew
96 Alden's Oxford Guide.
scholar, and other eminent members. Besides these worthies, Samuel the father of the Wesleys, Lurd Coleridge, the late Bishop of Oxford (Dr. Mackarness), and Mr. J. A. Froude, are among the best-known members of Exeter College.
The Fellows' Garden, small but exceedingly beautiful, is entered through a doorway at the S.E. angle of the quadrangle.
On its N side is the Library rich in mathematical works), built in 1856 from a tasteful design by >ir G. G .^cott ; and from its pleasant greensward we get a charming view of the 1 >iviniiy ^chool (3 and I Hike Humphrey's Library (6), their mullioned windows and picturesque buttresses and pinnacles richly clothed with foliage ; while on the other side the spire of St. Mary's (20) and the dome of the Kadcliffe (21), with the great chestnut tree mentioned on page 49, complete a lovely and reposeful picture. On returning to the quadrangle we notice a fine fig-tree (known as " Dr. Kennicott's fig-tree") which in summertime covers the garden front of the college with its broad leaves.
On the opposite side of Turl-street extends the E. front of
63. Jesus College, remarkable as the first college founded
since the Reformation, its charter bearing date 27th June, 157 r.
It was designed as a place of education for Welsh students by Dr Hu^'h Ap Rice i,or Price), who died in 1564. Queen Elizabeth, to whom Price applied for sanction, granted timber from the royal forests of Stow and Shotover, also the land on which part of the college stands, formerly occupied by ancient halls ; and thereupon assumed the name of founder. Sir Eubule The! wall. Principal of the college in 1 621 . doubled its resources, procured a new charter and statutes, and added to the buildings. The celebrated Sir Eeoline Jenkins, a native of Glamorganshire, who became Principal in i66l,\vasalsoa munificent benefactor.
The East front of this college was entirely remodelled and a handsome Gate- way Tower added in 1856, from the admirable designs of Messrs. Buckler, who also restored the S. side. On the right of the First Quairangle as we enter, we notice the Chapel, an unusually good specimen of very late Gothic, having been consecrated in 1621 and enlarged in 1636 ; the E. window is of the latter date. The interior of the Chapel was well re-tored by Mr. Street in 1864 Over its entrance is the suitable inscription, " Ascendat oratio, descendat gratia." The Hall was one of the gifts of ir Eubule Thelwall, and, as usual, is adorned with portraits of founders ami benefactors — among them one of Charles I. by Van- dyck. The Library was built 1667 by £ir Leoline Jenkins. It contains many scarce books and MSS. ; among the litter those of Lord Herbert of Cherbury, and the curious Llyfr Coch or Red Book, containing Welsh chronicles, romances of King Arthur, &c , of the fourteenth century. Seveial other curiosities are preserved in this college.
Many eminent Welshmen have been educated here : among these worthies
Lincoln College. 97
were James Howell, who while imprisoned by the Parliamentarians wrote his interesting Epistola Hoelianee ; and Sir Thomas Herbert, the traveller, who accompanied Charles I. to the scaffold and published an account of his later days.
Facing Jesus Coll. and separated from Exeter by Brasenose lane, is
64. Lincoln College, named after its founder, Richard
Flemying, Bp. of Lincoln, 1427; by whose successor, Bp. Rother-
ham, it was refounded in 1478, the statutes dating from 1479.
We enter the First Quadrangle by the gateway under a groined roof;
and observe on the E. side the Hall, built in 1437 ; the interior was
fitted up in 1701, and contains portraits of the founder, Nathaniel
Lord Crewe, a great benefactor, and others. On the N. side is the
Library, and on the S. side the lodgings of the head of the college,
called the Rector. The South Quadraiigle was
built about 16 12-51, and contains on its S. side
the Chapel, erected by Lord Keeper Williams, a
later Bp. of Lincoln and subsequently Abp. of
York. Its windows contain some very rich glass
dated 1629, said to have brought from Flanders,
comprising effigies of the apostles and prophets. arm3 of Lincoln.
The walls of this Quadrangle are covered with a Vine which is carefully tended. The story is told that at the founder's death his plans for the endow- ment of the college remained unfulfilled ; and that en the visit of Bishop Rotherham, the Rector preached from Ps. lxxx. 14, "Behold, and visit this vine ; " enlarging on the needy state of the college. It is said the appeal so touched the good bishop's heart, that his munificent endowment was the result ; and that in gratitude for the circumstance, the vine is held in veneration. " Flemying established the college with a view of providing against the spread of Wycliffism ; and Mr. Froude tells us that Lollards were imprisoned at the treasury at Lincoln. It is remarkable, however, that a manuscript copy of Wycliffe's Bible is one of the most precious possessions of the library ; and that John Wesley, to whom our modern Protestantism owes so much, became a Fellow of Lincoln (see 40). He is depicted to us as going hence, through a ridiculing crowd, to receive the weekly sacrament at St. Mary's (20), with his hair remarkably long and flowing loose upon his shoulders." Some new buildings have been recently completed, from designs by Mr. T. G. Jackson.
1890.]
9S Alden's Oxford Guide.
Crossing the road and walking southward, we catch some pleasing glimpses of the RadclifTe camera (21) and St. Mary's spire (20) on our left, and re-enter the High -street beneath the tower of
65. All Saints' Church, built in 1708, after a design by Dean Aldrich, in the revived classic style then prevalent.
The church, though modern, lias an ancient history, having had an existence as " All Hallows' prior to 1122, when it was presented to the abbey of St. Frideswide (see 29) by Henry I. Edward II. having granted it to the Bishops of Lincoln, it was settled upon Lincoln < ollege(64) by tne founder, Bp. Flemyng. In 1699 the old church was destroyed by the fall of the spire, and the present building occupies its site. The church has until recently presented an appear- ance of venerable anticmity, in consequence of the perishable nature of the stone used in its construction. The tower and S. front have now however undergone complete and careful renovation under the superintendence of Mr. H. W. Moore, architect (1889-90).
The interior (restored in 1865) is lofty and handsome; and the tower and spire, although inconsistent with classic models, are particularly elegant. The latter, having been taken down as un- safe, was rebuilt in 1874. In the church is a fine tomb with the recumbent effigy of a certain worthy Alderman Levins, five times Mayor of Oxford, whose virtues are set forth in a quaint epitaph.
Opposite All Saints' are the premises built in 1 866 for the Oxford branch of the London and County Bank ; at the rear of which is the Gymnasium, erected for the late Mr. Maclaren in 1858. Next to the tower of All Saints' church stands the well-known Mitre Hotel, on the site of Burwaldscote Hall, one of the academic houses with which in the middle ages this vicinity abounded. Another extinct Hall or Inn, identified as Elden Hall, has been brought to light during recent alterations to the S. front of the spacious Markeis for meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, &c. The fine oak-panelled staircase of the Hall has been restored and utilised by the proprietors of the ' City Stores,' and may be seen on appli- cation. On the other side a blue lamp indicates the Police Station, another old academic house formerly known as Kemp Hall.
Arrived once more at Carfax (X, see page 71), we turn our steps
northward by Corn-Market-street (once occupied by corn-dealers'
sheds), passing the Golden Cross and Roebuck Hotels on the right,
and on the left the flower-decked front of the Clarendon Hottl%
St. Michael's Church. 99
^
known to former generations as the Star. The passage at its N. end forms the most frequented entrance to the rooms of the Union Society (42), see page 75. A short distance farther north- ward we observe the venerable tower of
66. St. Michael's Church, an undoubted example of Saxon architecture, the " long-and-short work " of the quoins giving evidence of its antiquity. The battlements added in the 16th century were taken down in 1863, and replaced by a plain stone coping in accordance with its primitive style, and the tower was strengthened, under the direction of Mr. Bruton. The remarkable windows in the tower, each consisting of two semicircular-headed openings divided by a very curious baluster, are now replaced as they appeared before the mutilation of the upper tier. The main fabric of the church, restored in 1855, affords some interesting specimens of the architecture of various ages.
Robert D'Oyley, constable of Oxford in the time of the Conqueror (see p. ioo. is said to have built the tower : " perhaps," says Mr. Lang, '• he only restored it; for it is in the true primitive style-gaunt, unadorned, with round-headed windows, good for shooting from with the bow. St Michael's was not only a church, but a watch-tower of the city wall ; and here the old North Gate, called Bocardo, spanned the street [see illustrations on page I, also Appendix. The rooms above the gate were used as a prison, and the poor inmates used to let down a greasy old hat from the win low in front of the passers by, and cry, * Pity the Bocardo birds '.'... . wdo no trace remains, but St. Michael's
is likely to last as long as any edifice in Oxford It is worth while to climb
the tower, and remember the times when arrows were sent like hail from the narrow windows on the foes who approached Oxford from the North, while prayers for their confusion were read in the church below."
Opposite St. Michael's Church, and close to the site of Bocardo, are the printing and publishing offices of " Alden's Oxford Guide," No. 35 Corn- Market-street, where photogiaphic views and other souvenirs of Oxiord are kept on sale, and information is at any time gladly afforded to strangers.
The Railway Stations may be reached from this point either by George-street or New-Inn-Hall-street ; if we take the
100 Alden's Oxford Guide.
latter route, into the New Road (see page 73), we shall pass the
67. Probate Court of the diocese, erected in 1864; and the
68. County Hall, built in 1841, consisting of two commodi- ous Assize and Sessions Courts, in one of which the County Courts are held monthly, and a spacious Hall where County elections and other important matters are transacted. Next is the
69. County Prison, a massive pile of buildings, in which are included the remains of Oxford Castle.
As we walk down the New Road towards the Railway Stations we notice on our left a tree-covered mound, and perhaps catch a glimpse of a grey old tower behind it. The former is the site of an ancient "keep tower," erected by Robert D'Oyly, first of the name, who "came over with the Conqueror," and strengthened the defences of a city even then renowned ; and the latter had frowned in its gloomy grandeur for many a year, even at the early date when D'Oyly incorporated it with his newer structure and made it serve as a campanile to the church of St. George, used by the house of secular canons within the walls.* The Castle at Oxford was famous from D'Oyly's time to the Civil Wars ; but after its surrender in 1646, it lost much of its strength and importance, and gradually fell into ruin. Perhaps the most remarkable of its incidents is that which relates to the Empress Maud, who being besieged there by the army of King Stephen, contrived to escape across the frozen river accompanied by three trusty knights, all clad in ghostly white, passing the sentinels unobserved.
At the foot of the mound is the
70. County Police Station. A lane on the left, past £/. Peter-le- Bailey Schod, leads by the Castle tower to the Church of
71. St. Thomas-the-Martyr, founded in the reign of Stephen, but in large part rebuilt during subsequent periods. A north aisle was erected in 1847.
Beyond the railway, westward, is Osney Cemetery, partly on the site of the burial ground of Osney Abbey (see page 61) : and still farther past the Railway Stations are the populous suburbs of Osney 7 own and New Botley, with St. Frideswide's Church, erected in 1872.
We can but just name the following, which, lying outside our line of route, have not yet been visited : —
* See illustration in the Appendix to our Shilling edition.
Mansfield College. 101
72. St. Ebbe's Church, of immemorial origin, rebuilt 1814- 16, and enlarged and improved 1866. A fine Norman doorway of the 1 2th century is preserved on the S. side. Farther south is
73. Commercial Road Chapel, built in 1832 for the Rev. H. Bulteel, on his secession from the Established Church ; and now occupied by a congregation of Baptists. New School-rooms have been added. In the district known as "The Friars" is situated
74. Holy Trinity Church, opened in 1845, as a chapel of ease to the large and populous parish of St. Ebbe : also a com- modious building opened in 1886 for the uses of a Ragged School.
75. Mansfield College is situated W. of Mansfield-road, a new thoroughfare running S. from South Parks-road, designed to extend to Holywell-street. Its position, and the best means of approach, are clearly shown on our Plan. It was founded here in October, 1886, by the Trustees and Council of Spring Hill College, Birmingham, who resolved to transfer the college to Oxford, giving it the name of the family by whom it was originally endowed. It has been erected by the Congregational Churches for the study of theology, primarily with a view to the education of their own ministry, and also as a centre of evangelical teaching and influence for all members of the University. It is not a college in the ordinary Oxford sense of the word, as its students will be only men who have already graduated. Its professorial and tutorial staff are limited to the province of theology, and its chapel pulpit is open to representative preachers of Evangelical churches of all denominations. The memorable opening cere- monies took place on October 14th, 15th, and 16th, 1889.
102
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Mansfield College is built from designs by Mr. Basil Champneys, and is a fine example of early 14th cent Gothic — the purest period of the Perpendicular style. Its buildings are arranged as an open or incomplete quadrangle ; the Chapel forming the E., the Library, with the Principal's house the \V., while the N. comprises the Hall, Common-Room^ and lecture-rooms, &c. , the Entrance Gateway in the middle being surmounted by a square tower with oriel window, and an embattled turret at its S.E. angle, its parapet being plain,
reminding one of Beau- fort's tower at St. Cross. The Chapel is a lofty structure, with narrow aisles and an open wag- gon-roof, supported by stone arches, . between which are statues of eminent divines in cano- pied niches. Its Porch is represented in our engraving, reduced by permission from a sketch in the British Architect . Over the doorway is a figure of Origen, while statues of Augustine and Athanasius are in niches on the right and left. The fine organ (presented by Mr. W. H. Wills of Bristol) was publicly opened on 20th May, 1890. The Library and Dining Hall arc well designed, the pro- jecting windows of the former, and the bold semi-circular oriel which lights the high table of the latter, being specially noticeable ; the oak- carving and oiher details of ornament are admirable throughout. The grounds are laid out with fine lawns and terrace walks, commanding charming views of the older college buildings of Oxford.
76. Manchester New College. Following the example of the council of Spring Hill College, Birmingham, the authorities of Manchester New College, London, have decided to remove their academic institution, with its "free faculty of theology," to this
PORCH OF CHAPEL. MANSFIELD COLLEGE.
The Neighbourhood of Oxford.
J 03
older home of culture and study. A site has been acquired about midway between the new Mmsfield College (75) and the five-century old "New" College of Wykeham (12). Its frontage will face E. to the projected contiiuation of Mansfield-road, and will reach to "Love-lane" on the N.
The college was formally inaugurated on the 25th October, 1S89, in the temporary rooms, 90, High Street, opposite All Souls College (19), where its work is for the present carried on.
COTTAGES AND BRIDGE AT NUNfcrlAM.
The Neighbourhood of Oxford abounds with picturesque and interesting spots, offering strong inducements to the visitor to devote a few days to excursions in the surrounding country.
Within a short radius there is ample choice of shady lanes, like those at Garsington, or Handborough, or Charlbury ; of historic sites, such as Woodstock, or Blenheim, or Abingdon ; of quiet
104 Alden's Oxford Guide.
country towns ; and, beyond all, of the Thames that flows through meadows of the richest luxuriance, and is fringed with stately trees and picturesque homesteads, and almost every scene that delights. The description of such attractive spots as these, or of lovely river scenes like Godstow,* Iffley, Kennington, or Nuneham,f does not come within the scope of the present work. Several of the neighbouring towns and villages will, however, be found described in Salter's Guide to the Thames (is.), or in Rambles and Rides around Oxford (2s. 6d.), either of which may be obtained at our publishing office.
Many of our readers, we are sure, would welcome an opportunity of enjoying the delightful scenery of the Thames between Oxford and London ; and they will thank us for calling their attention to a most pleasant and admirably conducted excursion provided by a service of saloon steamers which leave Folly Bridge (page 70) every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday during the summer months, for a two-days' trip to Kingston-on-Thames, stopping the night at Henley, and passing in their voyage such places as Iffley, Nuneham, Pangbourne, Mapledurham, Cliveden, and Windsor, whose very names are fragrant with romantic interest.
In taking leave of the visitor, we venture to express the hope that our brief companionship may have been as fruitful in interest and pleasure as it has been our desire to make it. Our theme has been a delightful but an inexhaustible one ; and now that we part company, we can but exclaim, with Nathaniel Hawthorne, " It is a despair to see such a place and ever to leave it ; for it would take a life-time, and more than one, to comprehend and enjoy it satisfactorily."
[For many gratifying letters of appreciation received from friends who have made our acquaintance in these pages during past years, we offer our grateful thanks. Once more we cordially invite communications, and shall be glad to receive any suggestion for the improvement of the Guide in future editions.]
* Sec Appendix, page 119. f See illustration above, also Appendix, pp. 114, 115.
ANTIQUARIAN AND HISTORICAL NOTES,
CONTRIBUTED BY THE LATE
MAJOR-GEN. GIBBES RIGAUD, Hon. M.A., Magd. Coll. As an Appendix to A Men's Oxford Guide.
LTHOUGH at the present day it is as a University that Oxford is chiefly held in high esteem, it must be remembered that it had a vast reputation as a city and seat of learning long before the existence of the University.
In Peshall's edition of Antony \ Wood
it will be found that the antiquary carried
back his dates to the 1009th year before
bocardo from the south. Christ(A.M. 2954), when Memphric, king
of the Britons, is said to have built the city, whence it had the name
of Caer Memphric. The "famous antiquary," as Dugdale calls Ross,
says (1468) that the city was first called Membre, or Memphric;*
* This Memphric has left an odious reputation, as having treacherously slain his brother, seized the kingdom, and ruled tyrannically. At length, parted from his com- pany out hunting, he was devoured by wolves, in a dingle near a wood about two miles north of Oxford, at the spot still known as Wolvercote.
I
106 Alden's Oxford Guide.
then Bello-situm (afterwards Beaumond), and then Ridche?iy or Ryd-ychen, implying in the Celtic language a Ford of Oxen.
The names of Eellositum, quasi a belle siium, and Beaumond, were given to Oxford for its sweet situation ; and verses in its praise, both in Latin and English, have been written in all ages. Dan Rogers, who was Clerk to the Council to Queen Elizabeth, wrote an epigram in Latin and English, of which the latter version is as follows : —
"He that hath Oxford seen, for beauty, grace, And healthiness, ne'er saw a better place. If God Himself on earth abode would make, He Oxford, sure, would for His dwelling take."
And Tom Warton, the Poet Laureate, in his Ode for 1751, says : —
"In this princely land of all that's good and great, Would Clio seek the most distinguished seat, Most blest, where all is so sublimely blest, That with superior grace o'erlooks the rest ? Like a rich gem, in circling gold enshrin'd, Where Isis' waters wind Along the sweetest shore That ever felt fair Culture's hands, Or Spring's embroider'd mantle wore, Lo ! where majestic Oxford stands."
It is the nature of its situation which so much enhances the beauty of this city. Placed as it is in a basin, watered by the Isis and Cherwell, with their willows and waterlilies, the ground ascends on all sides except the north, so that, whether we walk by Head- ington and Shotover, the high ground of Bagley Wood on the Abingdon Road, or to the westward by Cumnor (the home of Amy
British, Roman, and Saxon. 107
Robsart), as we gain the summit, or turn and rest at any spot during the ascent, we have Oxford with its spires and towers, -md Radcliffe's dome (21) in the centre, all beautifully clustering bi low us, — a lovely picture.
To return, however, to our early history. The City had its name Ryd-ychen during the Britons' rule in this realm, signifying in their language "the Ford of Oxen," so called from the neigh- bouring ford leading to North Hengesey (now Hincksey), and behind Osney, about a quarter of a mile west of Oxford.* It should be stated, however, that whilst Antony a. Wood places the Ford from which the city takes its name at Hincksey, his pre- decessor Leonard Hutten places it between Iffley and Kennington ; whilst some hold the shallows between Port Meadow and Binsey to be the ford by which travellers and herds of cattle passed to and from the west country. But when the Saxons overran the king- dom in a.d. 689, after Cadwallader's death, they formed the name after their plainer and more familiar etymology into "Oxeneford."
The Roman roads in the neighbourhood, so carefully described by the late Professor Hussey, seem to disprove the existence of any considerable town here at the Roman period. The road from the Roman town of Alchester, near Bicester, to the Roman station at Dorchester, passes at about two miles and a half to the east of Oxford, and may be traced near Headington, but has no deviation towards Oxford. We have then the British period, all uncertain;
• Leland suggested that as Osney is derived from Ousen-ey, Oxen-ford might properly be Ouseu-ford : but this theory has never gained aiiy general acceptance. The City arms and seal are of the twelfth century, and the shield would hardly have been charged with an Ox or Bull in ignorance of the real origin of the city's name. Moreover the Abbey of Oeney (the derivation of this name is u a the lower part of their great
seal the Oxford Bull, marking tbe distinction between Oxena-ford and Ousen-ey. Some philologists of eminence in the present day are nevertheless more inclined to get our name from Ouse than from Ox.
108
Alden's Oxford Guide.
but we know that the place was destroyed by the Saxons in a.d. 449, when Vortigern thoroughly repaired it, and made it his resi- dence. And in 886 we find it the residence of King Alfred and his three sons, Edward, Athelward, and Alfward. AVhilst we claim Alfred the Great as the one who gave life to Oxford as a place of learning, we think it highly probable that the rebuilding and
NORTH FRONT OF BISHOP KING'S PALACE.
establishment of St. Frideswide's by Ethelred II., a.p. 1002, was the real starting-point, and that Oxford grew up and clustered, as it were, around that old foundation, which has now a still more valuable existence in the House of Christ Church. (See Nos. 28 to 31 in the Guide.)
Oxford was included in the Diocese of Lincoln until the time of
The Cily Walls and Castle. X09
Henry VIII., who, in compensation for the spoliation of so many monasteries, projected the erection of several new bishoprics. Peterborough and Oxford were taken out of Lincoln; and Robert King, the last Abbot of Oseney, was made the first Bishop, and the see of Oxford was fixed at Oseney, or Osney, in the western suburbs of the city. An old house still remaining in St. Aldate's, with quaintly carved ornaments, as represented in our illustration, is shown as the residence of this prelate. He was Bishop of Osney from 1542 to 1546, when King Henry, by letters patent of November 4th, transferred the see to his College in Oxford, which he re-established under the mixed form of a cathedral and academic college ; and the Bishop of this diocese has since that year been styled Bishop of Oxford.
The city was the Danes in 979, and again in the year
1032. In 1036 Harold Harefoot was crowned here. In 1066 the Norman Con lace, and William of Normandy
became King; and we pass from the distant time when the Mercian kings ruled, or the Wittenagemotes of our Saxon ancestors were held here, and may summarize our history in the statement that in no age since the Conquest has Oxford, both as city and University, been otherwise than one of the most important places in England.
We will now attempt, as briefly as may be, to give some account of the interesting remains of the fortifications with which this city was formerly surrounded. To begin with the Castle (see 69 in Guide), we may say that the original plan and extent of it can hardly now be made out. The New Road is cut right through the outer " bailey," and the site of the Canal Wharf is part of it The old tower which remains of the Castle built by Robert D'Oyly
1)0
Alden's Oxford Guide.
in the time of the Conqueror,* was probably a prison tower in the wall of the outer bailey, and not the " keep," as was formerly supposed. A "mount" is a common appendage to a Norman castle, formed of the earth dug out in making the ditch, and the
summit served as a look- out place,commonly pro- tected by a wooden pali- sade, and sometimes had a building on the top of it. In the centre of the Oxford mount a well was sunk and a well room made in the time of Henry II., when the sum of ^19 igs. was expended on it, equi- valent to nearly ^400 of our money. There was a small church and college of priests, called St. George's Col- lege, within the Castle. The stately towers of the Castle, which were a great ornament to that part of the city, were standing until the time of Colonel Ingoldsby, the governor, when, in 1649, the Parliament had them pulled down. They were four in number, besides the one on the gate.
* See illustration, also description (No. 69) in the Guide.— [Ed.]
OXFORD CASTLE.
The City Walls. Ill
The City Walls were built in the reign of Henry III., and about a century after their erection, in the reign of Edward III., 1370, we find mention of a grant from the Abbot of Osney towards their repair. The plan is the usual one of that period, — a curtain wall, with an alure or walk on the top, protected by a parapet and round towers — or bastions, as they are conveniently called — at regular and short intervals. The staircases were probably in these bastion towers, and the last of them may be seen in the part of the wall surrounding New College Gardens (12), where the straight staircases from the alure to the towers remain. It is here that the walls may be best seen, as William of Wykeham obtained per- mission to include the lane within the wall in the ground of his New College, on condition that he repaired the wall, and that his college should keep it in perpetual repair. Starting from this portion of the wall, its line may be traced to High street, where the East Gate stood, and then again round Merton (26). The portion that passed from thence to Christ Church (28) has long since been pulled down. Starting also from New College towards the west- ward, the wall may be traced first in the remains of the little chapel of St. Margaret* (which stood by one of the small gates called Smith's Gate), near the site of the present Clarendon Building (7) j then its line may be found in old bastions and the line of the ditch behind the houses opposite Balliol College (60).
* The hexagonal Chapel near Smith's Gate fcas been called improperly St. Catharine's (hence " St. Catharine's Club"). This name was adopted in his Memorials of Oxford by Dr. Ingram, who supposed that the mutilated sculpture over the doorway represented the Marriage of St. Catharine. The sculpture, however, may be seen to repiesent the Annunciation, and the Chapel was always known as "Our Lady's Chapel." Cat street it for Smith's) Gate were so called from St. Catharine's Hall, which stood where Hertford College stands.— Fide Peshall's Wood, pp. 72—75. Leonard ELntten says it was first a Jew's synagogue; then an oratory dedicated to St. Margaret. — Vide Heavne's " Textus Rofen'sis," &c , page 364. Antony a Wood held this also, and it would in former days he known probably as the Chapel of Our Lily and St. Margaret.
112
Alden's Oxford Guide.
It crossed the Corn Market by St. Michael's Church (66), is traceable by New-Inn-Hall street and Bullock's (improperly named Bulwarks) Alley ; and faint traces here and there in " the Friars " and St. Ebbe's parish complete the circuit to South Gate.
To trace the walls we should bear in mind the position of the
old Gates. The East Gate was across the High street, close to the corner of King street, leading to Merton; the South Gate was across St. Aldate's, close to the south-west corner of Christ Church ; the West Gate was in Castle street, beyond the old church of St. Peter-le-Bailey, which was in the bailey {pallium) or outer court of the ST. Michael's church & bocardo,' north gate. Castle. TheNorth Gate house was called " Bocardo." Here the three martyred pre- lates were allowed to meet and take their meals together in the room above the arch, and from this gate they passed out to their death by
* As seen from the North or outer side of the wall. Our publishing house occupies the site of the bastion shown on the right. A view from the South side is given on pagejios.
The Old Streets. 113
fire, which took place outside the City wall, opposite the entrance of Balliol College (60). In those days there were few, if any, houses here ; and the whole of the present Broad street, and the ground on which the houses stand, formed a considerable open space, known as Can-ditch. This name comes from the "Candida fossa," or clear running stream, made to flow all along the North side, which was more unprotected than the others. Before Can-ditch, this part was called Horsemonger street, Henry I. having granted to the Prior of St. Frideswide the right of holding a horse fair there. With the removal of the gates and the formation of the New Market about a century ago, the names of many streets have been changed. But St. Peter's-in-the-East, St. Peter's-le-Bailey, and St. Michael's at North Gate, still retain their titles, though St. Michael's at South Gate was pulled down to build Wolsey's College : it stood close to the gate, on the ground now occupied by the residence of the Professor of Hebrew. St. Peter guarded the East and West, St. Michael the North and South, as is expressed in the ancient distich : —
"Invigilat portae Australi Boreaeque Michael, Exortum solem Petrus regit atque cadentem."
"The North and South Gates St. Michael doth guard, The East and West St. Peter's care doth ward."
The Corn-Market had formerly a shed down the middle of the street for the protection of the dealers, with a leaden roof supported on stone columns. The shambles were in the middle of Butcher- row (now Queen street), and that name and the Butter-bench, still often heard, mark the sites of open markets. But the condition of the streets on market days in early ages, and before 1770, may be cor^eived, when we remember that up and down the High
114
Alden's Oxford Guide.
CARFAX CONDUIT.
Old Nomenclature. 115
street, and the smaller streets branching out of it, were told off stations for each condition of sellers of wood and straw with their teams ; sellers of faggots and fuel in carts and waggons ; timber merchants; sellers of hops and swine, beer and ale; drapers; sellers of roots and coals ; seller of gloves and whitawyers ; bakers, furriers, linen and woollen drapers, tanners, sellers of butter, cheese, milk, eggs, and corn.
We conclude these brief notes with some specimens of the old nomenclature of well-known localities. Carfax was Quatrevois (see X in the Plan). Here in 1610 a picturesque structure was erected as a Conduit for the water supply. In 1787 it was taken down and removed to Nuneham Park, near Oxford, where it still stands, as represented in our engraving. All Saints' Church (65) was All Hallows ; the Botanic Garden (16) \hz Jews' Cemetery; Magdalen Bridge, East Bridge or Petty Po?it ; the Turl, Silver Street; Brasenose Lane, St. Mildred's Street', Oriel Street was Schydyard Street ; Magpie Lane was Grope Lane, or by some called Winking Lane, from Wynkin de Worde having had his printing-press there.
The first part of the Henley and Cowley roads was Campus Fields ; Corn-Market Street was North Gate Street ; Market Street was Cheney Lane ; Ship Street was Summer Street ; Broad Street was Can-ditch; Trinity College (61), Durham Hall; a house of Augustine Friars occupied the site of Wadham College (8); Gloucester Green was Broken Hayes ; Friars' Entry was the road to the Priory of the Carmelite or White Friars, who succeeded \o the Beaumont Palace ground ; Queen Street was Butcher Rov Adelaide Street and Penson's Gardens stand on the gardens ot the Franciscan Friars; Paradise Street was West Gale ; Fisher Row, Wareham Bank; St. Aldate's was South Street or Fish
116
Alden's Oxford Guide.
Street. The range of building opposite the S. end of Christ Church was known as SegritrCs Tenements ; Pembroke College (33) was Broadgates Hall ; and on the ground from Commercial road to Abbey place (still called "The Friars"), where now the gas works stand, stood the monasteries of the Franciscan or Grey, and the
Dominican or Black Friars. Folly Bridge was called Grand Pont; our engraving repre- sents the Tower known as Friar Baco7?s Study, which stood on the old bridge until the year 1779.
It is impossible to do more than indicate the many objects of interest to those who can spend a little time in our old city; and we will only remind them that in the time of Charles I. the whole place was girt with
m^
FRIAR BACON'S STUDY.
earthwork lines of defence,* of which there are now left only a few traces in the shape of green grassy mounds, such as may be seen
* The plan of these works on page 117 is a reduced copy of one in Skelton's Oxonia Antiqua, said to be a fac-simile from Antony a Wood. It is reproduced here by kind permission of the late Gen. Rigaud, from his interesting pamphlet on the Lints Rouml Oxford, 1642— 1646 (Oxford: W. R. Bowden).— [Ed.]
Fortifications.
117
close to the river beyond Holywell Church. The fortifications were commenced about April, 1643, and for two or three years were worked at till completed; but on June 20th, 1646, a treaty for the surrender of Oxford was concluded, and on June 24th the city was surrendered to the Parliamentarians. The Royalists
FORTIFICATIONS ROUND OXFORD, 1642—1646.
A— St. Giles' Church. B— Holywell Church. C— Magdalen Bridge. D— Grand Pont (Folly Bridge). E— St. Thomas' Church. F— Oxford Castle.
marched out through a guard of the enemy, extending from St. Clement's to Shotover Hill, armed, with colours flying and drums beating ; Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice, with the " people of quality," having previously left the city.
That Oxford should have been given up, instead of standing a siege, is now a matter for happy reflection ; and it is enough for
118
Alden's Oxford Guide.
us to know that Sir Thomas Fairfax chose Headington Hill as the site of a " very strong and great work" or entrenchment, of capacity to receive and lodge three thousand men j that a bridge was thrown over the Cherwell at Marston, and a strong post made on the north side ; that at one time Fairfax had his head-quarters at Marston, Oliver Cromwell at Wytham, and Major Browne at Wolvercote ; that at another period the Parliament head-quarters were at Holton ; that there one of Oliver's daughters was married
to Ireton; and that in 1644 the Earl of Essex and Sir W. Waller came with their forces from Abingdon over Sandford Ferry, and so through Cowley and over Bullingdon Green en route for Islip.* And we may be thankful that our own lot was not cast in the "good old times;" for the Oxford of to-day will be found a far pleasanter place of sojourn than the Oxford of the troubled times of the Civil War, or those of William and Mary, Anne, or any one of the Georges. G. R.
* It was on May 29th— the Eve of the Ascension, and Charles I. went out on the top of Magdalen Tower to watch the troops of Essex as they crossed over Bullingdon.
Godstow Nunnery.
119
RUINS OF GODSTOW NUNNERY.
Godstow. — The ruined vestiges of the old Nunnery here give special interest to a charming spot by the Thames, situate about two miles north of Oxford, and approached by one of the pleasantest of riverside walks. The nunnery was founded by Edith, wife of Robert D'Oyley, in 1 138 ; and within its walls Fair Rosamond received her education, passed her later days in quiet seclusion, and was buried before the high altar of the church.
Godstow is reached by Walton Bridge, which is close to the northern terminus of the Walton-street tramway. (See pape 80 in the Guide.)
$tst of Illustrations in %Mn*B (JMorir
May Morning on Magdalen Tower ...
Arms of the City ami University ...
North Gate and Bocardo, from the North ...
The Sheldonian Theatre
King Henry VIII. 's Sword and Guy Fawkes' Lantern
The Divinity School (interior)
The Schools Tower
The Picture Gallery, Bodleian Library
Wadham College, The Arms of
The University Museum, Statue of Lord Bacon in
Keble College, Arms and Gateway ...
New College, Entrance Gateway
New College Cloisters, Bell Tower, and "West end of Chapel
New College, The Founder's Pastoral Staff and Jewel
St. Edmund Hall, The Arms of
The New Examination Schools
Magdalen College, from the Bridge
Magdalen College, Open-Air Pulpit
Magdalen College Cloisters, Chapel, Founder's Tower, &c.
Magdalen College, "West Doorway of Chapel
Magdalen College and Bridge, from the Cherwell
Magdalen College, Addison's Walk
St. Mary-the-Virgin's Church and All Souls College
St. Mary-the-Virgin's Church, The Porch
Brasenose College and Kadcliffe Library
Oriel College Dining Hall ...
Corpus Christi College, Quadrangle
Corpus Christi College, Bishop Fox's Pastoral Staff
Merton College, Arms and Gateway
Merton College Chapel, from the East
( 'hrist Church, Boat Club Barges, on the Isis
Christ Church Cathedral (exterior) and Latin Chapel (interior)
Christ Church, Dining Hall (interior)
Christ Church, "West Front, and Meadow Walk
New Road Chapel
Union Society's Library and Reading Room
"Worcester College, The Arms of
St. John's College, Arms, and Garden Gateway
St. John's College, Window in Garden Front
The Taylor Institution and the Randolph Hotel
The Martyrs' Memorial and Balliol College
Balliol College Chapel and Library ...
Trinity College, The Gateway
Lincoln College, The Arms of
Mansfield College, Chapel Gateway
Nuneham Cottages and Bridge, near Oxford
Bocardo, North Gate, from the South
Bishop King's Palace, St. Aldate's
Oxford Castle
Bocardo, North Gate, from the North
Carfax Conduit, Nuneham Park
Friar Bacon's Study, Grandpont
Plan of the Old Fortifications
General View of Oxford, from the G.W.R. ...
Godstow Nunnery
<§uibe.
Frontispiece. Page v. 1 3 6,7 8
Alderis Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
SUMMER TRIP OB the RIVER THAMES.
SPECIAL SALOON STEAMERS
RUN DURING THE SUMMER BETWEEN
OXFORD AND KINGSTON,
DOWN TRIP.
OXFORD TO HENLEY: Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays,
HENLEY
TO KINGSTON : Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays.
UP TRIP.
KINGSTON HENLEY
TO TO
HENLEY: OXFORD:
Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays,
Fridays, Saturdays.
Oxford to Wallingford „ Henley -
„ Windsor -
„ Kingston -
FARES.
4/- I Kingston to Windsor - 4/- 7/6 „ Henley • 7/6
12/- 15/-
Wallingford- 12/- Oxford - - 16/-
Time Tables and full particulars on application. PRIVATE STEAM [LAUNCHES.
Boats of all kinds for Hire by the Week, or Season, and for Excursions down the Thames, at charges which include Cartage back to Oxford.
SALTER BROS.,
BOAT-BUILDERS, OXFORD.
Alden's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
JtrlUJCaJDUwxy. XlUJLJCa Xsl*
(See page 98 in Guide.)
J. AUSTIN DRAYTON, Proprietor.
This First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel is most con- veniently situated for Commercial Gentlemen, Tourists, and Boating Parties.
Visitors will find every comfort and attention with moderate tariff.
LADIES' COFFEE ROOM. PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS.
Billiard Room (two tables). Large Stock Rooms. Good Stabling.
The "Golden Cross" Hotel,
eOHW-MAHEET STREET, OXFORD.
(See page 98.)
AT this old-established First-Class Hotel, which is centrally situated a few doors North of Carfax (marked X in Plan), Visitors, Boating Parties, and Families will meet with every comfort, at moderate charges.
M. M. FRANKLIN, Proprietress.
A I dot's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
^OXFOR D.*
MITRE HOTEL
SITUATED IN THE
FINEST STREET IN EUROPE,
IS ONE OF THE MOST
ECONOMICAL FIRST-CLASS HOTELS
IN THE KINGDOM.
WILLIAM H. ALDEN,
(Late THOMAS ALDEN,)
UNIVERSITY & FA1LY BUTCHER,
1 & 2, MARKET, OXFORD.
SUPERIOR PORK, GORNED BEEF, & PICKLED TONGUES.
Families regularly Waited upon for Orders.
Alderis Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
TIM \ mnnwinwiurvmu r ^tej'S^C^^
(Artists' Gidfflipniefl.
d) AND
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BEST PENCILS FOR ARTISTS, ARCHITECTS, ENGINEERS,
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Best Quality - - 2^- each, all degrees.
Second - - - Id. „ H., H.B., B., B.B.
E. "WOLFF <Sc SON,
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Sold by ALDEN & Co., 35, Corn-Market Street, Oxford.
Alderis Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
VISITORS
WILL FIND EVERY ACCOMMODATION AT THE
OXFORD RESTAURANT,
107, HIGH STREET,
Exactly opposite the new Gateway Tower of Brasenose College.
PROPRIETOR
ALFRED BOFFIN,
000k, Qonfcdicncr,
AND FOREIGN WINE MERCHANT.
DESSERTS, ICES, Ac. SOUPS, JELLIES, AND ENTREES
Supplied on the Shortest Notice.
Richly ^ Ornamented Bride Cakes, carefully Packed and sent to any part of the Country.
Estimates Given for Wedding Breakfasts, Ball Suppers, &c, PLATE, GLASS, CUTLERY, &c, LENT ON HIRE.
A /den's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
THE STAFF OF LIFE.
VISITORS TO OXFORD
SHOULD NOT LEAVE
WITHOUT TASTING
(SMITH'S PATENT)
GERM BREAD,
SOLD AT
COOPER'S,
207\ COWLEY ROAD, 18, PARK END STREET,
(OPPOSITE L.N.W.R. STATION) AND
85, ST. THOMAS'. OXFORD.
Allien 's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY AGENTS.
SAUNDERS & CO.,
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on the most moderate terms, and forward the same to destination,
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Alden's Oxford Guide — Advertisements.
"The Universities" Note Paper.
A SUPERIOR WOVE PAPER,
With Water-pressed Surface.
In handsome wrapper, printed in gold and colours, with the Arms of the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge,
Per Packet Is. Five Quires.
Court Envelopes to Match, Is. per 100.
"THE UNIVERSITIES" CABINET,
Containing a supply of Note Paper and Envelopes of the same quality.
ONE SHILLING PER BOX-
Or Stamped in Coloured Relief with the Arms of any College in Oxford,
HALF-A-CROWN PER BOX.
MAKERS : FOURDRINIER, HUNT, & CO., LONDON.
Sold by ALDEN & Co., 35 Corn-Market Street and all Stationers.
MARTYR'S
(Late IRWIN'S)
HAIR-GUTTING ROOMS
FOR
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,
CORNER OF
BROAD STREET AND CORN-MARKET, OXFORD.
(Marked O on Plan.)
Alden's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
Genuine works of art."
(Reduced Facsimile of Packet Cover.)
|
The City of] |
[Oxford. |
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Xist of Cbromo Dfevvs. |
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In Ornamental Envelope, is. |
Bound in Cloth Extra, is. 6d. |
|
Oxford from Magdalen |
Chapel and Library, Mag- |
|
Tower. |
dalen College. |
|
High Street. |
Christ Church. |
|
Martyrs' Monument. |
St. John's College. |
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Broad Street. |
Merton College. |
|
University College. |
New College. |
|
Magdalen from the Bridge. |
Barges on the Isis. |
|
T. Nelson %nd Sons, Londor |
, Edinburgh, and Now York. |
"Bach packet contains twelve exquisite chromo-lithogrrapnio
Views, accompanied with a well-written illustrated
Guide-book."— Publisher's Circular.
Oxford: Alden & Co., 35, Corn- Market Street.
*♦* The illustrations on pp. 69, 93, are reproduced by permission from the ' the abore set «tf views.
and 94 in " Alden's Oxford Guide" 1 Tourists' Guide " which accompanies
A/den's Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
Please address Manager for prices, &c., of the Thirty
'VARSITY MESOPOTAMIA
LAWN TENNIS Courts,
SOUTH PARKS ROAD.
OPEN TO VISITORS every Week-day in the Year, Bank Holidays, &c. , NOT excepted, from 6d. each Player,
Practice BATS and BALLS included.
ALDEN & CO.
call attention to their
"IBodretcm"
gvovy 12&ox>e Ifiote Igcvper,
Which they are offering in packets of Five Quires for 10^d"
Court Envelopes to match, lO^d. per Hundred.
Or they will supply the paper with any Address Heading in colour, in these or other styles, at 5 Quires for 2s.
TRINITY COLLEGE. BttUlOl (Solltgt,
O*forb.
'Bodleian" Note.— Messrs. Alden & Co., Corn-MarJcet Street
A fine, thick, woven body, ivory coloured, with faced surface — altogether a superior paper." — Oxford Times.
>«* A. & Co. solicit one trial of this paper, being convinced that it will rapidly become a universal favourite.
SJ, Corn-Market Street, Oxford, opposite St. Michael's Church.
Alien's Oxford* Guide. — Advertisements.
:STABLISHED 1832. REBUILT
"Bocardo ' Printing Works,
35, CORN-MARKET STREET, OXFORD.
TfLDEX & Co., Printers and Publishers of this Guide, respect- fully invite the attention of Authors, Publishers, and the general public, to the facilities afforded at their old-established Printing Office for the satisfactory execution of every description of Book- Work in the best style, as well as all kinds of commercial and general Printing, under direct personal supervision. The greatest care is taken to ensure accuracy and punctuality in the fulfilment of orders.
Printers (by appointment) to
The Corporation of the City of Oxford,
The Oxfordshire Agricultural Society,
And numerous public bodies in the University and City.
Four doors south of the central point (marked O in the Plan) referred to in the first page of the Guide. See also page 99.
35, CORN-MARKET STREET, OXFORD.
Alderfs Oxford Guide. — Advertisements.
ROBERT R. ALDEN
LATE THOS. ALDEX,
clmbcvsitn &' Jfamtln illuttber,
17, 18, & 19, MARKET, OXFORD.
( Corner of Third and South Avenues. )
tr+
Pickled Beef and Ox Tongues in prime condition.
families ugularln hnitcb upon for orbrrs.
C
GAMMON, WICKS & Co.,
(LATE GUV & GAMMON)
FREWEN COURT, CORN-MARKET STREET,
Adjoinng the Union Society's Rooms,
(See page 99)
OXFORD.
IMPORTERS OF AND DEALERS IN
WINES, SPIRITS, AND LIQUEURS.
testimonials to "JUben's (Dxforb ©tribe."
— ♦ —
•.* Alden s Oxford Guidewas officially recommended to the " University Extension Students and other visitors at the " Oxford Summer Meeting " in August, 1888.
"YKTE should certainly recommend all those who are fortunate enough to have their
* 'people' up next Term, to get for them the new edition of Mr. Alden's pretty
little book. It contains an excellent map of Oxford, and six good photographs
besides a large number of woodcuts The information which it furnishes as to tin
various buildings and institutions is quite full enough for the ordinary visitor, and would also be both useful and interesting to most of those actually residing in Oxford. ... and the book is a marvel of cheapness." —Oxford {Univ.) Review, Feb. 29, 1888. "PERTAIN LY no good American should visit Europe without going to Oxford ;
^ and when they do so they should buy Alden's Oxford Guide, which is now in its twenty-sixth thousand, and contains about as complete a description of the city as can well be crammed into a hundred pages." — American Bookseller, Nov. I, 1887. "'THIS carefully prepared, accurate, and popular Guide to places of interest in
-*■ and about the city. We are glad to find, on glancing through the pages of this new edition, that every article has been carefully revised, and that such additions have been made as to bring the book up to date. . . . We have frequently taken occasion to praise both the arrangement employed, and the way in which the
information is conveyed We can confidently recommend the book to tourists
and visitors, as well as to townspeople, hundreds of whom know so little of the beauties in their midst." — Oxford Times. July 30, 1887. [Another highly com- mendatory notice (July 7.1888) concludes thus: — " Mr. Alden may be congratulated on his enterprise and the continued success of his Guide."] "P|N more than one occasion this excellent Guide to Oxford has been com-
^ mended in these pages. Its brevity and yet comprehensive descriptions, and its excellent arrangement are as noteworthy as ever in the issue of the twenty- sixth thousand of the work." — Publishers' Circular, Aug., 1887. " A LDEN'S OXFORD GUIDE is without doubt one of the best Guides that
•**■ is published, and I am not surprised that it has reached a circulation of twenty-six thousand. It is embellished with a large number of cuts, and the descriptions of the places of interest are well and concisely written. Much valuable historical and antiquarian information is contained in this model Guide I thank Mr. E. C. Alden for this book, and wish every town in England had an author able to compile a guide-book on similar lines." — W. Andrews, Esq., F.R.H.S., in Wakefield Free Press, Sept. 10, 1887.
"WE have much pleasure in commending 'Alden's Guide to Oxford ' to the notice of such of our readers as may be contemplating a visit to the classic city on the Isis. It is compact, full of information, and carefully edited and printed, displaying numerous illustrations, and can be obtained for the small sum of sixpence." — Baptist Magazine, Sept., 1887. "NO American or foreigner touring in this country will consider he has done his
^ duty until he has paid a visit to the fine old University city of Oxford ; and once at Oxford the visitor will find he has never come across a better Guide to any
city than 'Alden's Oxford Guide.' We could not recommend a more
valuable aid than is presented in the pages of this neat-looking and well-arranged little handbook. It is nicely illustrated, and the points of interest are very care- fully dealt with."— Sussex Times, March 8, 1884.
~HC?frgrf* from ,"E£fttcrs.
His Royal Highness (the late) PlilNCE LEOPOLD, Duke of Albany, KG., Under date "Kensington Talace, June 12th. 1875," authorised the publisher to announce that Alden's Guide is "Patronised by II.R.H. Prince Leopold." From the Right Hon. W. E. GLADSTONE, M.P.
"Allow me to thank you for the useful Oxford Guide, and for the kind words with which you have been pleased to accompany it. —July 5th, 1S85." From Sir HENRY W. ACLAND, K.C B., M.D.. F.R &.. Regius Professor of Medicine in the University of Oxford, Hon. Physician to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales.
" Please send me five copies of your admirable little Guide. — Feb. 1S88." From J. WALTER, Esq., M.P. , Proprietor of "The Times," Bearwood.Wokingham.
"As we occasionally have American friends staying here on their way to Oxford, I should be glad of a few copies of your ' Guide' to present them with ; and will thank you to send me a dozen copies for that purpose. — Aug. 16, 1887." Colonel THEODORE A. DODGE, of the United States Army,
"Desires to compliment Mr. Alden upon having written the only Guide Colonel Dodge has ever had in his hands, and he has used so-called ' Guides ' in all parts of the world. The volume has been a most perfect cicerone.
"Clarendon Hotel, Oxford, 19th March, 1878." Frcm Rev. CORTLANDT WHITEHEAD (now Bishop of Pittsburg), U. S. America.
'• 1 have found your Guide to Oxford an invaluable companion during my visit here "Clarendon Hotel, Oxford, 1879." [This testimony was confirmed in 1888]
From R. PETERS, Esq., Sec. Young Men's Christian Association, Cambridge.
" Several of the members have expressed their approval of your Guide-book, and stated that had it not been for the information therein, they could not have made such good use of the limited time they had, in visiting the places of interest." From G. HERBERT MORRELL, Esq , M.A , B.C.L., Headington Hill Hall.
"Mr. G. HERBERT Morrell would congratulate Mr. Alden upon the pro- duction of such an exceedingly handy pocket Guide-book. — 7th June, 1878." From the late Rev. J RIGAUD, B D., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford.
"I have always thought your Guide to Oxford one of the very best. It answers its purpose admit ably. It gives to the stranger, and indeed to residents, a large amount of interesting information, in a clear and readable way, respecting our old City, the University and Colleges, and Churches, — describing them well ; and tells its readers of the illustrious names connected with Oxford during the many centuries past to our own day — April, 1SS2." From the late M&j.-Gen. GIBBES RIGAUD. Hon. M.A , Magdalen Coll., Oxford.
"General Rigaud is extremely glad to hear that a reprint of Mr. Alden's Guide to Oxford has been called fur. He thought it, when it first came out, an improvement on the then existing ones ; and he has observed on each re-issue that Mr. ALDEN hns added some new matter or embellishment, and taken great pains to combine the utmost accuracy of description with a clearness of style which makes it a real Guide to the visitor.— 18, Long Wall, 3rd April, 1882." From W. H. WHITE. Esq. M. Inst C.E., Surveyor to the Oxford Local Board.
" Your Guide-book is certainly the best thing of the kind I have seen
The Map. too. is very clear and complete. — June. 1SS4."
From F MADAN. Esq , M.A . Brasenose College. Bodleian Sub-Librarian.
" Your Guide is admirably up to date, and well furnished with illustrations and map.— B.N. C., Oxford, Juue 27th, 1885."-
dfeniune JP>rcss Notices.
The " Tourist and Traveller" (June, 1S85) says: — "It is something of a pleasing novelty to come upon a local guide-book which is not either absurdly fulsome or tiresome in its prosiness. Alden's Oxford Gltde is one of the best we remember to have seen. It is convenient in size (a great desideratum), well printed, and abundantly illustrated, and, above all, pro- vides the sort of information the tourist desires, and just the right quantity of it. It possesses considerable literary merit— not the usual characteristic of the average work of this kind — and is arranged in a manner which makes it easy of reference."
The " Oxford and Cambridge Undergraduates' Journal " says : — "Alden's Oxford Guide is a marvel of cheapness. We have tested it in several particulars, and in each case found it accurate. We know of no better Guide to Oxford, and can honestly recommend it to Members of the University as well as to visitors."
The " Christian World »' (Oct. 16, 1884) says :— "Alden's Oxford Guide is a surprisingly good book."
The •'Bookseller" (August, 1886) says :— "A profusely illustrated Guide-book to the City and University, together with an Appendix of Antiquarian and Historical Notes: the whole nally well put together."
The "Bath Herald" (June 1st, 187S) says : — " Strangers will be glad to find such a compact and well-arranged Guide as this ready to their hands. It is very well written, and is one of the best arranged Guides we ever came across. It is prefaced by a numbered Key Plan, the corresponding numbers being set against the paragraphs which describe the various public build - incjs. The labour of the visitor in getting about is thus reduced to a minimum. The Guide is also abundantly illustrated with a number of capital woodcuts "
"Jackson's Oxford Journal" (June 8, 1878) says: — "Alden's Oxford Guide honestly justifies its title as a Guide in the best sense of the term. The information supplied is just that which strangers would be most likely to seek, and it is arranged in a very convenient form for reference. The des- criptions are clear and to the point, and the work is well printed and illustrated."
The "Oxford Chronicle " ( July 15, 1882) says :— "Amongst the new matter is a Key Plan shewing at a glance the hours at which
some of the principal buildings are open to the public The book is well
printed on good paper ; the illustrations include every building of note in the University and City ; the literary matter combines accuracy with conciseness, and the visitor in his perambulations will find that he possesses a Guide at once intelli- gent and trustworthy."
The "Bookseller" (Aug. 5. 1882) says : — "A compact, well illustrated little Hand-book, serviceable to visitors and a handy reference book for residents."
" Jack 0' Lantern " on "Oxford Gaides." "Alden's Oxford Guide-book, revised and reprinted last July, containing a new and useful
Map in addition to the old Plan It may be useful at this holiday season to point out to
the numerous foreigners who are daily lionising us. that the misleading absurdities and extortionate charges of many of those men who call themselves guides, may be avoided by their investing the small sum of 6d. or is in a sensible Oxford Guide-book." — Our Local Note-booh in Oxford Times, 10th September, 1881.
PRESS NOTICES of " Alden's Oxford Guide," continued:— The " Publishers' Circular'' (August 15, 18S2) says : —
11 A special merit in this little book is the brevity with which the descriptions are given, and the consequent saving of time to the visitor. Many guide books seem to be compiled under the impression that they will be studied at home, and that any attempt at compressing the information would be a mistake ; but Mr. Alden has realised that the great majority of people who consult such works are tourists anxious to do the maximum of sight-seeing in the minimum of time, and to this large class of visitors to Oxford his work will be invaluable. At the same time it must not be supposed that he omits any particulars as to the colleges and other buildings which are really essential to a due appreciation of their history, archi- tectural and other features, for, from first to last, he touches upon every point of interest in this most interesting of ad our English cities. As an addition to the bound copies of the handbook, we have a coloured sketch map of the city and university, and an antiquarian chapter entitled 'Old Oxford,' contributed by
Major-General Gibbes Rigaud The book is published in a handy pocket
size, and may be justly described as a Model Guide."
From the "Nouvelle Chronique de Jersey'' (30 Aout, 1882). " La touriste qui n'a que peu de temps a sa disposition, et dont le sejour a Oxford, ne doit se compter que pour quelques heures, ne peut faire mieux que d'acheter "Alden's Guide to Oxford." Ce guide en main, a pas lents et mesures. jetant un regard a droite et a gauche, nous penetrames au cceur de cette ville ainsi que dans plusieurs des ses ' temples oil 1' intelligence la plus elevee a brille,' et dans les palais des etudes Universitaires d' oil sont sortis les hommes les plus renommes du monde." — Extract from an article entitled, " Un Conge de Douze Jours."
" \A/E have just received a copy of the new edition of Alden's well-known sixpenny Guide to Oxford ..... We most cordially recommend this throughly complete and careful handbook to residents, as well as visitors, who desire to gain an adequate idea of the many beauties and antiquities of our University." — The Oxford ( Univ.) Review, July 17, 1885.
" \ME call attention to a very neat and complete Guide to Oxford, issued by Messrs Aldsn & Co., of 35, Corn-Market Street, Oxford. It is of con- venient size, ably written, replete with detailed information on all archaeological and classical points of interest, and profusely illustrated. Those who wish to learn as much as possible of Oxford in a few hours will do well to obtain copies of Alden's GUIDE..' —Brighton limes, Feb. 29, 1884.
"QTR ANGERS to Oxford, on visiting that fair and world-renowned city, should u purchase this singul irly complete, well-arranged, portable, and inexpensive 'Guide.' It will abundantly facilitate their explorations, and will afford them a great variety of information which will make their visit usefully instructive as well as delightful. . . . Purchasers m.iy take our assurance implicitly that they will find the volume ' a perfect cicerone.' " — Baptist Magazine.
"PAREFULLY looking through it. it seems to me far and away the most useful ^ Guide-book for strangers." — Jack o' Lantern in the Oxford Times.
OXFORD : ALDEN & CO., 35, CORN-MARKET STREET. LONDON :— HAMILTON, ADAMS & CO., 32, PATERNOSTER ROW.
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