e. -Forestry, Main FORESTRY PAMPHLETS a SILVICULTURE VOL. IX Shade Trees The Planting and Care of Shade Trees. , New Jersey Forest Commission. 0_ Hints on Rural School Grounds. By L. H. Bailey. Bui. 160, Cornell Agri. Exp. Sta. Roadside Tree Law. Forestry Leaflet No. 16, Maryland State Board of Forestry. Planting and Protecting Roadside Trees, Bui. No. 1, The Maryland Conservation Assoc. b Street Trees; Care and Preservation. Com- piled from New York Cornell Sta. Bui. £56. .hade Trees, Characteristics, Adaptation, Diseases and Care. Bui. No. 170, Mass. Agri. Sxp. Sta. 1 Systematic Street Tree Planting. By Henry. R. Francis. Bui. No. 4 of the N. Y. State College of Forestry. Vol. XV. •Rural and City Shade Tree Improvement. Bui. No. 2 of the N. Y. State College of For- estry. Series XIV. Annual Report of the Park Commissioners. San Francisco, Calif. 1912. <5 J3 •-' >, FOREST PARK RESERVATION COMMISSION OF NEW JERSEY THE PLANTING AND CARE OF SHADE TREES By ALFRED GASKILL, State Forester, fHOPtirrr DIVISION o: FORESTRY INCLUDING PAPERS ON COLLEGE Of M. AGRICULTURE ONIveHSlTY CTCAUFORNIA Insects Injurious to Shade Trees By JOHN B. SMITH, State Entomologist, AND Diseases of Shade and Forest Trees By MEL. T. COOK, State Plant Pathologist. TRENTON, N.' J. ,»,'"•*••• STATE GAZETTE PUBLISHING ,CoV«P«iN7ER&.\,-,'1 ;\ ; *» 1912. The Forest Park Reservation Commission. Hon. WOODROW WILSON. GOVERNOR, ex-officio President. HENRY B. KUMMEL. Trenton, Executive Officer. ELMER H. SMITH. Salem. CHARLES L. PACK. Lakewood. WILLIAM AY. SMALLEY. Bound Brook. ALFRED GASKILL, Trenton, Forester and Secretary. JAMES O. HAZARD, Trenton, Assistant Forester. CHARLES P. WILBER, Trenton, State Firewarden. OFFICE, State House, Trenton. Illustrations. PAGE. 1'iu. 1. — Elms 30 years old 5 Fi-. 2.— Too much shade 9 Plate I. — Shade trees good and bad 11 Fig. 3. — Residence street insufficiently shaded 12 Fig. 4. — Street newly planted 15 Fig. 5. — Diagram — How trees should be placed 10 Fig. 6. — Young tree as received from the nursery 18 Fig. 7. — Same with top and roots pruned 18 Fig. 8.— Diagram— How to plant a street tree 20 Plate II. — Types of tree guards and gratings 23 Fig. 9. — Exposed roots tolerable 26 Fig. 10. — A tree choked by a guy wire 27 Fig. 11. — Guard a tree thus if it must anchor a guy 27 Fig. 12. — Trees guarded while building goes on 28 Fig. 13. — How lack of system gives a poor effect 31 Fig. 14. — Trees on curb and inside footway contrasted 33 Fig. 15. — Old trees on a new grade and with cabled wires through their crowns 34 Fig. 16. — Abrasion moulding 36 Fig. 17. — Dense crowned Norway maple 37 Fig. IS. — Norway maple after an interior pruning 37 Fig. 19. — Butchered maples 40 Fig. 20. — Diagram — How to doctor a tree 42 Fig. 21. — Cavities from untreated wounds 44 Fig. 22. — Pruning wounds completely healed 44 Plate III. — Tree wounds filled and unfilled 47 Fig. 23. — Trees saved by mounding and raising curb 50 Fig. 24. — A tree "well" 51 Fig. 25. — Street grade raised without injuring trees 51 Fig. 26. — Trees in gutter and on sidewalk 54 Fig. 27. — A well shaded lawn made from native forest near the sea, 55 Fig. 28. — Street lines accommodated to shade trees 58 Fig. 29. — Elm standing in roadway 60 Fig. 30.— Trees left above grade 62 Plate IV. — Insects injurious to shade trees 70 Plate V. Insects injurious to shade trees 71 Fig. 31. — The maple pseudococcus 77 Fig. 32.— The San Jose scale 79 Fig. 33.— A soft scale 81 Fig. 34. — The maple-tree sesiid 82 Fig. 35. — Work of the hickory bark beetle 85 Fig. 36.— Chestnut leaf spot 95 Fig. 37. — Chestnut tree nearly dead of blight 100 Fig. 38. — Section of chestnut killed by blight 101 Fig. 39. — White pine blister rust 104 Fig.. 40. — Fomes igniarius 108 Fig. 41. — Polyporus sulfureus 110 Fig. 42. — Polystictus versicolor 113 Fig. 43. — Armillaria mellea 115 364033 Introductory. The first two oi? this series of papers, with one on Fungi <>f X ativo and Shade Trees, by Dr. Byron D. Halsted, were originally published in the report of the Forest Park Reserva- tion Commission of Xew Jersey for 1908. Appreciative de- inauds having exhausted the edition, Mr. Charles Lathrop Pack, a member of the Forest Commission, and a well known pioneer in Forest Conservation, generously offered to de- fray the cost of a new issue. This offer was accepted and the Forest Commission has caused two of the papers to be thor- oughly revised and a new one dealing with tree diseases to be prepared by the recently appointed State Plant Pathologist. The State is committed to the policy of protecting, improv- ing and increasing the number of its shade trees. This bul- letin is published under the direction of the . , Authority. Forest Park .Reservation Commission with the co-operation of the Trustees of the State Agricultural Ex- periment Station. Fach paper is by an acknowledged au- thoritv in his line. Fig. 1. Elms 30 years old, well placed, well spaced, well guarded. (Courtesy of U. 8. Forest Service.) G SHADE TKEES. The reader is reminded that none of the Scope. . „ . . papers pretends to be exhaustive o± its sub]ect; each deals in the briefest possible way with the things that concern the trees of the State, and aims to tell what to avoid as well as what must be done. The bulletin will serve as a manual to those who are accustomed to working with trees, and will guide those who seek to travel an unknown, though it may be an attractive, path. More detailed information will be found in the books listed on page 123, though for any important work tree owners are advised to seek the assistance of a reputable tree planter, tree doctor, arborist or forester. The Agricultural Experiment Station and the Forest Com- mission have lists of such and will furnish them upon request. Assistance Both offices are prepared to give advice by offered. mail on any matter relating to trees, and, when necessary, either will have a competent man make an ex- amination and report. Any municipal body, as a shade tree commission, or the managers of a public institution, will be aided without charge; individuals will ordinarily be re- quired to pay the consultant's expenses, but not his salary. 'FORK6TRY | :OLUGE OF A AGRICULTURE fcttVCR$|TV OF CALIFORNIA The Planting and Care of Shade Trees. By ALFBED GASKILL and JAMES O. HAZARD, Foresters. Xew Jersey is fortunate in having a soil and climate so favorable that many species of trees can be grown in any part of it, or some species found for almost any situation. It must be urged, however, that only a few trees conditions withstand the trying conditions imposed by favoral»le and un- favorable. city streets and buildings, or the rigors of the sea coast. Attention is, therefore, given chiefly to street trees, for the number which may be grown successfully on any well kept lawn, even in a city, is very great. Upwards of forty species are found in more or less thrifty condition on the street, parking and lawns within two blocks of the State House, and many more might be planted that would do as well. Street Trees. There is little use trying experiments with trees for street planting. At the best, a tree on a city street is out of its ele- ment and at a disadvantage; chose, therefore, amongst the few that are known to thrive under your conditions, get good trees, plant them carefully, and take care of them. REQUIREMENTS. X street tree should be chosen for its (1) Form, (2) Hardi- ness or Adaptability, (3) Rapidity of Growth, (4) Shade Production, (5) Neatness, (6) Beauty; the various qualities ranking in about the order given. 1. Form is placed first because, no matter how good the 8 SHADE TREES. tree, it is a failure if it does not fit the situation. By careful pruning almost any tree can be made to grow upright, or to develop a broad crown, but it is much better to chose a species that naturally takes the desired form. Trees are beautiful, or otherwise, as they harmonize with their surroundings. On narrow streets with houses close to the curb only slen- der trees of moderate height growth should be planted. Red maple, reel gum, ginkgo, are good. For wider streets, or those with parking in front of the houses, larger trees like ISForway maple, basswood, horse chestnut, or pin oak, may be chosen. Wide avenues should be dignified with the most majestic trees — white elm, white oak, red oak, tulip poplar. 2. Hardiness and Adaptability are qualities of prime im- portance in a street tree. Under any circumstances care- ful consideration must be given to the native soil, the pave- ment, the nearness of buildings, as well as to the vigor of the tree itself and its power to adapt itself to unusual strains. Strength to withstand the pressure of wind, snow, ice, etc., ability to recover from mechanical iniuries, and A street . " . J tree must resistance to insect attack and to disease are also be resistant. factors. JNo tree at all susceptible to irost should be planted in this State. Sweet gurn grows well in clay but not in sand; sugar maple and basswood suffer from leaf burn when over a smooth, light colored pavement ; horse chestnut is apt to be infested with insects and fungi. 3. Rapidity of Growth. To most people who plant trees that which grows most rapidly is best. Thus our streets are filled with silver maples, box elders and cottonwoods instead of IsTorway maples, oaks and elms. Quick growing trees are desirable, yet it is a fact that those which grow most rapidly are commonly the shortest lived. Plant silver trees are maple or cottonwood it you must have a good lived. sized tree in a hurry, but don't forget that it will have to be replaced when a Norway maple, a red oak, or a sycamore is at its best. And bear in mind that cultivation and care will make any good tree grow comparatively rapidly. A red oak well nurtured will increase in size faster than a maple that is neglected and abused. STREET TREES. Fig. 2. A good row of trees but houses too much shaded. See Figs. 4 and 14. 4. Shade Production. On many streets it is easily pos- sible to have too much shade. (Fig. 2.) Houses and side- walks need sun even in summer ; therefore, on narrow streets trees with light foliage, like the locusts and ashes, will usually be better than the denser crowned maples, etc. Early leafing is never desirable. ">. Xeafncss. A tree is a nuisance when it litters the street with its bloom or fruit, sends up many suckers, heaves the pavement by its superficial roots, emits an offensive odor, or attracts insects. Cottonwoods or poplars are, ., . Avoid trees therefore, to be avoided because, among other that are i •, -i • i -I • -i i offensive. r<-a«>n>. they cover the ground with their bloom in the spring; silver maples will break up any pavement; ail an thus has a very bad smell for several weeks each year unless the trees bear pistillate flowers only; mulberry has a fruit which when crushed makes the sidewalks slippery and dangerous. 10 SHADE TREES. PLATE I. SHADE TREES GOOD AND BAD IN ONE NEW JERSEY CITY. A. Extreme Neglect ; the Pole Looks Better Than the Tree. B. No Tree can Thrive Where the Pavement is so Close. C. A Street Tree that is Bad in Every Way : It Forks too low and has no growing space. D. A Worse than Useless Guard. It is too low to prevent horse- biting, and so small that the tree is choked. E. A Newly-planted Tree Protected by a Guard that is Entirely too Light, and with no Growing Space. F. A Guard Outgrown and Sidewalk Displaced by Root Growth. G. A Good Temporary Guard, but too Light to last Long. Grow- ing space much too small. H. A Good Guard but Evidently not Placed Until After the Tree had been Badly Injured by Horses. Growing space en- tirely too small. I. A Tree Well Guarded and Well Provided with Growing Space. J. A Thriving Street Tree. It has a fair growing space and is sufficiently guarded with wire. K. A Growing Space like that Provided for this Tree Interferes Little with the Footway. Plate I. See descriptions opposite. 12 SHADE TREES. 6. Beauty. The idea of beauty in a tree is satisfied when it is normal in form, vigorous in growth, healthy, and suitably placed. Street trees always suffer by contrast with those in natural situations, yet when arranged harmoniously in well- spaced rows, the uniformity of the trees matching the uni- formity of the street, most satisfactory results are obtained. This rule demands that all the trees on a street, or at any rate all in a block, shall be of the same kind and as near alike as possible in size and shape. See Figs. 1 and 4. In choosing shade trees, it is always proper to consider the buds, twigs, flowers, fruit and coloring of the leaves. The pendant, spiky balls of the red gum are as at- tractive through the winter as its brilliantly colored leaves in the fall. Of all the trees fit for street plant- ing the most gorgeous are the maples in their autumn dress. The spring beauty of the horse chestnut in bloom is largely offset by its dilapidated appearance in early autumn, when most other trees are still fresh. Fruits, flowers, color. I'v Fig 3. A residence street insufficiently shaded. See Figs. 4 and 26. STREET TREES. 13 Evergreens WHAT TO PLANT. The list of trees capable of meeting the conditions in a city street is not long; it might indeed be curtailed to less than a dozen. Evergreens are excluded altogether because their shade is not wanted in winter. The fol- lowing list is arranged to show the trees best adapted to streets of various widths and includes all the species, foreign as well as native, which are in any way suitable, except perhaps on wide streets where lawn condi- tions are approached. Those at the top of each column are preferred to those farther down. See pages 56 to 65 for descriptions of each species. THE BEST TREES FOR CITY STREETS. Streets. (less than GO feet wide between building lines.) Average Streets. (60 to 90 feet wide between building lines.) Wide Streets. (over 90 feet wide between building lines.) White Elm Red Oak Scarlet Oak Sycamore Sugar Maple White Oak Tulip Poplar Basswood Red Gum Ailanthus Trees not recommended. From the foregoing list several trees universally found on city streets Avill be missed. Silver, or white, maple is a rapid grower and able to survive many handships, yet its youthful beauty is soon lost by the breaking of its fragile branches and a general early decay. It is also prone to disturb the pavement by the growth of superficial roots. The poplars or cottonwoods, of which there are several species, are even more rapid growers than the silver maple Ginkgo Norway Maple Red Gum Red Gum Red Maple Pin Oak Norway Maple Red Oak Honey Locust Scarlet Oak Hackberry Red Maple Green Ash Sycamore Basswood Hackberry White Ash Ginkgo Honey Locust Horse Chestnut Sugar Maple 14 SHADE TREES. when, planted in rich, moist soil, and their slender habit adapts them well to narrow streets, but they are even shorter lived than the maple, are offensive by the litter that they make Trees to in spring and by the many root suckers that nvoid* they produce. For these reasons ihey are ex- cluded from the streets of Albany, Is". Y., by a city ordi- nance. In Washington, D. C., the silver maples and poplars planted years ago are being replaced by other species. Wil- lows have no recommendations whatever as street trees. None of these trees, therefore, should be planted unless it be for a momentary effect. Twenty years after planting, any of the trees recommended will be in better form and, if wrell chosen and properly cared for, almost as large. Black locust should not be planted solely because it is sure to be injured or destroyed by the borer worm. Except for this fault it makes a fine tree for narrow streets on account of its hardi- ness, narrow crown and fine foliage. Beech is a slow grower and casts too dense a shade for any street. It is further objectionable for any public place because its smooth bark tempts every jackknife carver. Walnut and the hickories in- vite injury by their fruit and, therefore, have no place as street trees. Chestnut is sure to fall a prey to the bark disease, see page 101. PLANT THE TREE THAT SUITS LOCAL CONDITIONS. Any of the trees here recommended will grow in every part of the State but, after meeting other conditions, a careful planter will chose that whose natural habitat is nearest like the planting site. If the soil be very dry chose scarlet oak, hackberry, honey locust rather than white ash, white elm or Norway maple. If it be clay, red gum, pin oak or sycamore A close re- will be apt to do best. By changing the soil between soil natural conditions can often be modified so that and tree. tne preferre(J species may be planted. Any soil but the very best should be enriched when, a tree is planted, for the needs of the tree are apt to be forgotten afterwards. STREET TREES. 15 THE TIME TO PLANT. Deciduous trees should never be transplanted while the leaves are on. Midwinter is not a good time because the ground is apt to be frozen. Late fall is often preferred, yet it is never well to expose a tree to the dangers of a winter be- fore it has had a chance to grow new roots and g rfn begt fix itself in the soil. In this State early spring, tl™*t*° jn-t after the ground thaws, is by far the best season. Trees are then quick with new life and if moved can very promptly provide feeding organs and adapt them- selves to changed conditions. If a drouth follows the plant- ing, and spring drouths are common, the trees must be freely watered until they are established. ARRANGEMENT ON THE STREET. Uniformity. "When planting is done by the property owners individual choice will naturally have the widest range — as to species, size, location and everything else. But V erfort should be made to have all the trees on a street Fig. 4. A residence street newly planted with Norway Maples, well grown and well placed. (Courtesy of the Newark Shade Tree Commission.) the same kind, the same size, and uniformly spaced. (See Figs. 1 and 4.) "Where the building lots are of various 16 SHADE TREES. widths uniform spacing is sometimes difficult, but there is no need to place trees in the same position in front of every house. Spacing. Do not plant trees so close together that when grown they will interfere or entirely shade the house fronts. Too much shade is as bad as too little, and each tree should have room to develop its own form. (Fig. 4.) In blocks made up of lots 20 feet wide, or less, a tree should be planted in front of every other house only, those on opposite sides being alternated thus : Fig. 5. How trees should be placed on a narrow street. On wider streets, 40 feet, 50 feet, 60 feet or even more may be given to a tree according to its size and habit of growth, and the arrangement may be opposite or alternate ac- cording to conditions. But in every case the aim should be to develop rows, or blocks, of trees, rather than individuals. A quick effect can be secured by planting trees closely, and as they grow removing the alternate ones. But a very practical difficulty, apart from the cost, is that no one wants to thin them out at the proper time. If close planting is resorted to the intervals must ~be half or one-third the intended ulti- mate spacing. STREET TIJEES. 17 Location. Where pavements are narrow the trees must be placed close to the curb in order that their crowns may have room in front of the buildings. They will be crowded at best. Where space permits it is best to plant Don't plant • i ^ c mi i close to inside the lootway. Inere the trees are less curb. subject to injury and shade the sidewalk and the houses rather than the road. See Fig. 14. Footing or Growing Space. As explained on page 24, every me p] anted should have at least 6 square feet of open earth above its roots. If the sidewalks and roadway are paved with concrete this is even more important than where bricks, or other jointed materials are used. On GIve a tree narrow sidewalks the space may have to be room- limited to 1*4 feet by 4 feet, but with that as a minimum strive for openings 3x8 feet, or better still, a continuous park- ing. Figs. 8, 14, 26, Plates I, II. THE TREE. Be sure to get healthy, well shaped trees. It is a waste of money and time to set the poor deformed things that nursery- men sometimes supply. Wild trees can be used, but they are less apt to withstand the shock of moving than those that have been transplanted once or twice. Don't seek cheap trees ; get them from a responsible nurseryman. It is often possible to set out trees as much as 12 inches in diameter, but the cost increases much more rapidly than the size. As a rule the stems of the trees should be be- tween 2 inches and 3 inches in diameter, and about 12 feet tall. This serves pretty well the common desire for early results at a reasonable cost. Roots. Move a tree with as many roots as possible. It may grow if only the stubs of the main roots are saved ; it will do much better if the whole root work within a radius of 2 feet is taken ; give especial care to the finer spare the rootlets, they are the ones that do the feeding. roots- Xever let them get dry ; a dry root is dead ! 2 18 SHADE TREES. v^ A Fig. 6. Young tree received from the nursery. Fig. 7. Same with top and roots pruned. Crown. Preserve the normal crown, or the form de- veloped in the nursery, if possible. If the root system has been much curtailed it will be necessary to cut back the crown to maintain a balance between roots and foliage, yet this balance is much better kept by saving roots than by sacrific- ing branches. (Figs. 6, 7, 8.) Good trees rarely come from Expand the ^ne bean poles that are often planted. The crown. lower branches of a street tree should be not less than 10 feet above the sidewalk. While it is small something- less may be permitted, but sufficient headroom should always be allowed passers-by. If this is not done the tree is sure to be injured. Observe how the branches bend when the leaves are wet with rain and give plenty of room for umbrella**. See Pruning, page 37. THE HOLE. Before a tree to be planted is brought on the ground have the hole made ready for it. If the site is on "made" ground take out at least a cubic yard of the rubbish and provide as much good loam. Then prepare the planting hole, by dig- ging or by filling as the case may be, so that it shall be some- what larger than the root area, and about a foot deeper than the roots. On the bottom spread a layer of fine, mellow soil STREET TREES. 19 mixed with one-third its bulk of well rotted iiu»t fresh) stable manure. Have the space place for above this bed just deep enough to accommodate the roots and allow the tree to stand about 2 inches deeper than it did in the nursery — not more. PLANTING. If a choice is allowed always transplant a tree on a cloudy day; a bright sun quickly exhausts the stored up moisture. But whenever the tree arrives get it into the ground without delay. Thoroughly wet the earth in the hole that has been prepared, set in the tree and spread out the roots so that they lie naturally and are not crossed. Cut off with a sharp knife all that are broken or badly bruised. A mutilated root in- vites decay. Then fill in finely pulverized earth, work it under and around the roots by hand, and compact it firmly. Do not let any manure come in contact with the roots. If the earth is wetted down as it is put in it will make a much better contact. Fill the hole to the ground level when well com- pacted, then rake over the surface and pulverize it to a depth < >f about an inch. Two points are very important : keep the tree vertical and be sure that all the roots are well embedded. It is possible to injure the roots by making the earth about them too hard, yet more trees are Jost through in,bed faulty root bedding than in any other way. each rootlet- Remember that a tree feeds by its roots ; to do that every smallest rootlet must be firmly in the soil. When planted tie the tree to a strongly set stake, or place the guard about it at once. 20 SHADE TREES. WELL DEVELOPED HEAD, GOOD LEADER, MAIN BRANCHES FORMING WIDE, NOT CLOSE, ANGLES WITH STEM. STAKE 2? INCHES BY 10 FEET DRIVEN 2 FEET IN GROUND. TREE PRUNED AS ORDINARILY REQUIRED. IF ROOTS ARE FULL CROWN NEED BE LESS CURTAILED. BASE OF PERMANENT CROWN 10 FEET ABOVE PAVEMENT. RUBBER COVERED WIRE,Lv OR CANVAS, BINDER. | 4= BED DUG OUT 18 INCHES DEEP, THEN FILLED TO LOWER ROOT LEVEL WITH MIXTURE OF ^ GOOD SOIL AND. Curtail any of the main branches which threaten to as- sume undue proportions by removing a part of their terminal growth. WHEN A TREE is WELL DEVELOPED, BUT UNPRUNED. Most trees of this class will carry a considerable burden of dead wood in their interiors, and a large amount of half sup- pressed and vigor-lacking growth throughout the mass of branches. There is usually considerable irregularity in the form of the tree due to the greater vigor in some branches than in others. (See Fig. IT.) 1. Remove all dead wood. pruning •2. Select from the most vigorous branches the character framework as outlined above. 3. Remove all branches large or small which do not fit in with the scheme of form development decided upon. 4. If the primary frame does not distinctly dominate, curtail the secondary development by clipping the terminals. 5. If necessary to cut back any large branch by a con- siderable amount without entirely removing it, leave a vig- orous small branch near the point where the cut is made to act as a "sap lifter'1 and thus insure the life of the branch which has been shortened. 6. Establish an individuality in each branch by removing from it such parts as would bring it in contact with its neigh- bors, or which grow contrary to the characteristic habit of the species. 7. Remove internal decay as indicated under "Treatment of Cavities," page 45. 40 SHADE TEEES. WHEN A TREE is NEGLECTED AND DECADENT. Old untrimmed trees always contain broken branches and much dead wood, ancj frequently possess certain branches which have grown disproportionately. This irregular growth and mutilation often develops a picturesque appearance which should be retained unless there is some outweighing reason for altering it. Under no circumstances allow a tree to be "topped," that is, reduced to a post with branch but "don't stubs at the top. Fig. 19. Under any but ex- "top" a tree. . , /.,. ~, . • 7 . . i ceptional conditions the practice is butchery. Better take the tree away and plant a new one. "Heading in" is another matter, and if carefully done may cause a decadent tree to recover its form as well as its vigor. Fig. 19. Butchered maples. Not necessary to escape the wires and in no way justified. The winter aspect of a tree is almost as important as its summer aspect. STREET TREES. 41 An old tree if moderately sound will stand, and be thankful for, any reasonable treatment of its crown. In a case of this kind observe the following: 1. .Remove all dead wood. 2. If all the large branches must be cut back make at least two operations, a year or more apart. •3. Make the cuts so that the stubs of the "headed in" branches will roughly conform to the desired shape of the crown to be. 4. Be sure that a small asap lifter" is left on each short- ened branch near the place where the cut is made. 5. Treat all decay as directed under "Treatment of Cavities," page -1-5. How TO PRUNE. In removing a branch it is important to make the cut close to the trunk, or remaining branch, and to take such precau- tions as will insure a clean wound without injuring the sur- rounding bark. An ordinary hand saw or a pruning saw is generally used. Unless the branch is quite small saw under- neath first and finish from above. This is to prevent the splitting down of the branch, or breaking the surrounding bark. In removing any sizable limb, make first a half cut from the under side and about a foot from the trunk; then sever the limb entirely by a cut a few inches further out. (Fig. 20 B.) The object of the undercut is to prevent the in- evitable split from running back to the base of Avoid the branch. Finally remove the stub close to 8P1Ittins- the trunk. If a limb is very large and heavy, and there are other branches beneath, support it from above by means of ropes in order that it may not fall and do damage. Be sure to make the final cut as close to the tree trunk as possible, since a large wound there will close in a more satisfactory manner than a smaller one at the end of a short stub. And be especially careful that as the severed limb finally falls the bark next its underside is not torn from the tree. PREVENT A SPLIT OR MEND A SPLIT BY CHAIN BOLTS, NOT BY A BAND, SEE I. A DECAYED BRANCH AS C, CUT OFF & , THE CAVITY CLEANED & FILLED. STUB . TOO LONG FOR HEAL- THY , HEALING AND DECAY WORKS INWARD. REMOVE A HEAVY LIMB BY MAKING SCUTS AS NUMBERED A LONG STUB LEFT, DECAY HAS SET IN & IFNOT TREATED AS AT M WILL DESTROY THC MAIN LIMB. A PRUNING WOUND MADE AS B OR HEALING PER FECTLY. A SOLID BAR WITH NUTS WILL HOLD A WEAKENED CROTCH THOUGH, IN A BIG TREE NOT SO WELL AS A CHAIN. SEE A. . A WOUND FILLED UNNECESSARILY, TREATMENT AS E OR K WOULD BE BETTER. WHEN A LIMB IS REMOVED AND THERE IS SLIGHT DECAY, CLEAN OUT THE WOUND ft TAR BUT DO NOT FILL IT. NEVER MEND A SPLIT WITH A BAND, THE TREE WILL SOON BE CHOKED, SEEA& TREAT A BRUISE AS H BY CUTTING OUT INJURED TISSUE, LEAVING -SURFACE EDGES SMOOTH, TAR BUT DO NOT FILL. A HORSE BITE OR BRUISE TO BE TREATED AS F. A. LARGE CAVITY PROPERLY FILLED WITH CONCRETE. Fig. 20. Diagram— How to doctor a tree. STREET TREES. 43 SUGGESTIONS. Do not prune evergreens, except hedges, un- Ever. less the severed member is wanted out of the ereen*. way. Evergreens do not sprout from cuts as do most de- ciduous trees. Pruning may be done at the most convenient Time to time unless the wound bleeds. As this is most Pruiie- likely to occur in spring that season is the least advisable. Fall or winter is usually best, for then the sap is least active and the leaves do not obscure the tree framework. Do not remove a live limb unless it interferes with a better one or otherwise fails to meet the form and health require- ments of the tree. Interior pruning is often necessary in the maples, bass- wood, and similar dense-crowned trees, because the foliage develops beyond the power of the roots to satisfy it with water. A treatment similar to that ordinarily Excess of given fruit trees is advised. (See Figs. 17 foli«se. and 18.) The suckers or long shoots from adventitious buds, often observed on elms, give them a peculiar beauty not found in other common shade trees. Spare these instead of removing them as is often done. Do not trust your tree work to the first man who comes along, but seek a reputable worker. Xo chestnut tree can be cured of the blight; a wound badly filled or unnecessarily filled would be better left open (Plate III) : and a tree that is sprayed care- lessly or with wrong material will be benefited as much as, and no more than, one that is butchered under a pretence of being pruned. Tree owners are warned against men without credentials, and those who have work of this kind to do are advised to seek assistance from the local shade tree commission, or, if help cannot be secured in that way, to apply to the Forest Commission, to the State Entomologist or to the State Plant Pathologist. SHADE TREES. CARE OF WOUNDS. Every break in the bark of a tree should be treated with an anti- septic to prevent the en- trance of decay. But this rule is commonly ignored in so far as clean cut wounds, not over two inches in di- ameter, made in the live wood of a healthy tree, are concerned. But every pruning wound of Fig. 21. Four branch wounds with good cal- . . , luses but each showing a cavity, the larger Size must be treated else decay may set in before it can heal over. (Figs. 21 and 22.) The treatment consists simply in painting the exposed wood with coal tar, creosote, or lead paint. The first is usu- ally preferred. Thin the tar by heating it if necessary and apply with a brush, being care- ful not to cover the cambium, or tissue between the wood and bark. Give two good coats and repeat every year or two until the wound is completely healed. Wounds due to mechan- or animal have all the injured wood and bark removed with a knife or gouge and then be treated as directed above. (See Fig. 20.) If the bark is merely scraped but not result of long stubs and lack of treatment to prevent decay. See Fig. 22. Tar all wounds. ical abrasion gnawing should broken through, let it alone and see that it "does not happen again." ig. 22. A group of branch wounds perfectly healed, no filling needed as stubs were cut short and wood was sound. See Fig. 21. STEEET TREES. 45 TREATMENT OF CAVITIES. 1. Remove as much of the decayed wood as the location of the cavity and the condition of the tree seems to warrant; aim to expose a smooth surface of sound wood at all points. 2. Sterilize the surface by a brush application of copper sulphate or creosote. 3. Give the cavity at least three coats of coal tar, avoiding covering the cambium. 4. If the cavity is of such shape that it will catch and retain water, or if it is so large that the tree is weakened thereby, fill it as directed below. 5. If the cavity does not fall in either of the above classes it is best to allow the natural growth of wood to gradually cover over the defect. 46 SHADE TREES. PLATE III. TKEE WOUNDS HEALING WITHOUT, AND IN SPITE OF, FILLING. A. A bad scar on a fine elm healing perfectly without cement. B. New growth on a wounded elm which has forced out a cement filling. C. New growth closing another wound on the same tree and confining some of the cement. D. Strong new growth closing a bad scar that would have been better left without brick or cement. E. A fine callus closing a bad wound on a hemlock that has had no treatment. The decayed wound in center should be removed and the sound core tarred. Plate III. See opposite page. 48 SHADE TUBES. A word of warning must be given against the too free use of cement or concrete in treating trees. The material un- doubtedly has value in spite of a lack of elasticity that almost inevitably prevents a filling from being water cement too tisjht, or causes it to crack and fall out of place. freely. T , , It may always be used where a tree needs me- chanical support, often where a cavity is unsightly, and some- times to keep out rain. Under other circumstances it usually is best to clean arid treat antiseptically a cavity, certainly a superficial or shallow wound, and leave the rest to Nature. In many cases a filling secretes rather than excludes mois- ture, thereby inducing decay, and unless it is very carefully made may interfere wTith the normal processes of repair. (See Plate III.) Where a cement filling must be made a few rules will serve to guide: 1. Prepare the cavity as above and in addition remove the bark around its edge for about half an inch. This is to expose active cells in the cambium from which the healing callus may develop. 2. Fill the cavity flush with the wood at the edge of the opening but do not lap over. If desirable the cement may be sculptured to resemble bark. 3. A small cavity may be filled with pure cement. For large ones use a concrete consisting of one part cement to cement *wo Pai"ts of sand and reinforced with stone, or concrete, brick or iron. Cover the exposed face with an inch of pure cement. Spikes driven into the wood inside the cavity will help to hold the filling in place. Another method is to cover the cavity with sheet zinc, carefully fitted and securely nailed to the exposed wood at Zinc its edge, and fill in concrete behind it. The facing. concrete should be liquid enough readily to adapt itself to the interior of the cavity. This is a simple and very satisfactory way to get the filling in place and to keep it there. Of course the zinc must be first fastened at STREET TREES. 49 the bottom and the concrete poured in from above. The zinc and the edges of the wound should be painted or tarred to render them less conspicuous. BRACES FOR CROTCHES. Acute angled crotches in trees of large size often split. To prevent this, or to repair a break, let iron braces be put in of size sufficient to withstand the strain. See Fig. 20. Do not let bands be used, many trees have D0n't use been rained by them. If the weight of limbs bands- is not very heavy a solid rod with screw threads on both ends can be used. Ordinarily, however, it is best to use hook bolts and a chain, or eye bolt, so that there may be some move- ment when the wind blows. Whether a single rod or a com- bination is used let a neat hole be bored entirely through each limb and as high above the crotch as is prac- ticable. If a rod is used these holes must be in line, if a chain or eye bolt it does not matter. On the outer side of each hole countersink a seat for a washer at least 4 inches in diameter and for the nut. When the brace is in place make the whole taut by screwing up the nuts. If the tree has been split and the gap cannot be closed by the power of the screws rig a tackle higher up. Let the hook ends of the bolts project several inches so that they will not be buried as the tree grows, but see that the washer, nut and end of bolt are left so that they will be overgrown. WHAT TO DO WITH OLD TREES. Xothing that has been said about the choice of trees should be construed as a recommendation to remove a poor tree be- fore it can be replaced by a better one. A ragged old silver maple is often better than none. When systematic tree planting is decided upon accommodate the plan to existing trees and provide for a gradual replacement of undesirables. 4 50 SHADE TREES. In the meantime fix up the latter and help better™ h*att them to keep alive: cut out all broken and dead branches, heal the wounds and open the pavement so that the roots may have air. If necessary curtail the crowns gradually so that new trees adjoining shall not be hampered in their development. If a tree is very bad don't waste time and effort but replace it at once. Fig. 23. Trees saved by mounding and raising curb when road was lowered. Note step in curb at A. Base of tree B is 30 inches above the gutter. Where a change of grade has left a tree above the common level don't leave it to be kicked and battered by every passer- by, but cover the roots with a few inches of earth and provide some means to keep it there. (Fig. 15.) A slight change in a sidewalk may be fully justified by the necessity of saving a valued old tree. If a new grade requires a fill about a tree don't pile on two or three feet of earth at once, but build a well of brick or stone at least 3 feet greater in diameter than the tree stem. (Fig. 24.) Let that fill up gradually and occasionally break the bark on the tree, just below the soil level, to encourage the growth of new roots. STBEET TREES. 51 Fig. 24. A " Well" constructed about an elm tree when grade was raised. Photo by \Vm. Solotarofi\ CO-OPERATION. In few lines of civic work is co-operation so essential as in the care of shade trees. The fact that one individual ordinarily owns and controls but a fraction of the property in a block makes it necessary for each owner to work with, and not independently of, his neighbors. In almost every community the best results will be secured through a Shade Tree Commission, or a Park Board having similar authority. Fig. 25. Street grade raised two feet without changing sidewalk or injuring trees. Practicable only on a side street. 52 SHADE TREES. SHADE TREE COMMISSION. Where a community interest in shade trees has been awakened the best way to get things done is to organize a shade tree commission. The State laws give ample powers to such bodies and one properly supported by local ordi- nances and reasonable appropriations will soon change the sylvic aspect of a municipality. The only objection to the laAvs as they stand that is of importance concerns itself with the unusual powers granted a Shade Tree Commission. The answer is that in practice the laws have worked no injury or injustice but have enabled several communities to care for their trees systematically and effectively. An individual may do the right things for the trees in front of his property and the community get the benefit, but ordinarily his interest is spasmodic and apt to be ineffective. He neglects to have his trees fed, or doctored, or trimmed, or he employs a butcher who spoils them. A shade tree commission can pre- vent abuses and require symmetrical planting, can doctor, prune and spray, can make terms with the gas company and electric company and save the owner all trouble. Some property owners do not want to give over to a public body the care of trees which they have planted and nurtured. The position, though understandable, is unreasonable in a day when utilities and conveniences are developed for the advantage of the public. As well might each property owner insist on being allowed to do as he pleased respecting side- walks, curbing, sewers. If every owner must dedicate a part of his property to the public for these purposes, he can quite as reasonably yield the care of Ids shade trees that his neighbors as well as himself may be lienefited. An active Shade Tree Commission can do much good also by anticipat- pian for ™S municipal improvements and harmonizing the future. various interests. Where streets are repaved or grades changed an agreement with the engineers will save many an old tree from destruction. In not a few instances in this State has the want of co-operation, or co-ordination of duties and interests, deprived a town of trees that cannot be replaced. In new work the same unity is quite as neces- LAWN TREES. 53 snry. Large open spaces about street trees, for instance, can be made only with the consent of those who regulate the pavements. SHADE TREE FEDERATION. The shade tree commission idea has progressed so far in Xc-w Jersey that an organization composed entirely of men and women actively interested in shade trees has been formed. It is in no sense a popular body, but devotes itself to problems that concern the various communities and their -hade trees. In general it aims to be a sort of clearing house through which the experiences and needs of each com- munity or Shade Tree Commission can be made to serve all their fellows. Lawn Trees. The variety of lawn trees that may be grown in this State is almost unlimited. And here evergreens are quite as valu- able as deciduous trees. For the main features of any plant- ing plan the same species recommended for street planting will be found most satisfactory; for contrasts, for pure orna- ment, for windbreaks, many other kinds are Many available. Individual taste will govern in this possible. and there is no objection to trying novelties. There are many native trees, however, that are rarely seen but which well deserve place. Serviceberry, dogwood, several birches, various magnolias, red bud, silverbell, sourwood, yellow wood, mountain ash, hawthorn, larch, cypress, arborvita?, hemlock, are all suitable, especially for sheltered situations. Many nurserymen are now prepared to furnish well grown trees and will guarantee them to live. Thus it is quite pos- sible to give an air of age to a new place within a very few y< ars. Of course the cost of large trees is considerable. Trees on a lawn should be planted and cared for the same as street trees, though they will ordinarily need no guards and may easilv grow much more rapidly. For " £f Must be fed. several years after a tree is planted, no matter what its size, grass should not be allowed to grow about its base, but the ground kept open and frequently cultivated and watered. After the tree is fully established a turf may be allowed to form, but it will still need to be fertilized because 54 SHADE TREES. its natural food, the fallen leaves, dead grass, etc., will have been removed. Open earth at the base of every tree is recom- mended because, apart from all questions of nourishment, the bare circle acts as a guard against injury by lawn mowers, etc. Fig. 26. Tree A stands in the gutter, Tree B in the curb line, Tree C is partly on the sidewalk. No harm done. It is well to observe several points about the qualities and behavior of trees. Those which give a dense shade are usu- ally shade-enduring or tolerant ; they carry their own lower branches for a long while but kill or stunt trees, shrubs or Shade grasses that are intolerant or light-requiring. endurance. Qn ^g account grass does not grow well under a beech or spruce but may under oak or pine. Sugar maple will do fairly well in the shade of elm, but elm is hampered by sugar maple. Trees grow tall and slender when crowded, much broader wiien they have plenty of room. All trees do best in good soil, but some, as most of the pines, require it loose and well drained. Others like elm, ash and pin oak favor moist locations. SEASHORE TKEES. 55 Evergreens, especially spruce, balsam, cedar, arborvitse, make the best windbreaks and permanent shade, but they should not be planted close to the house for they \vind- cut off the sunlight in winter when it is wanted. breaks- Thin foiiaged trees like elm, oak, sycamore, ash, are best in such places. Seashore Trees. Whether on streets or lawns, trees planted near the sea are subject to two great handicaps not commonly found else- where, namely, strong, constant winds and sterile soil. Close to the beach salt spray often works injury. These conditions make it imperative to plant only the hardiest species, though if great care is taken to prepare large beds of good earth sheltered lawns may enjoy a comparatively great variety. Especial pains must be taken to anchor every planted tree against the wind, for the breezes shield from , . T • i i winter of summer are as nothing compared with the wind*. storms of winter which it must withstand. In any case many trees will be permanently inclined or distorted as are those thai grow wild. Fig. 27. A well shaded lawn made from native forest near the sea. 5C SHADE TREES. On lawns the native pines, oaks, cedar and holly should be encouraged. Though of slow growth under natural condi- tions cultivation and care will stimulate them. The mari- time pine (Pinus pinaster) of Europe is worth trying in exposed situations. Spruces and firs need protection. For street planting it will be best to try few experiments, but use the trees that are proven hardy and give them every riant only care. The species most likely to thrive are species. sycamore, ailanthus, pin oak, scarlet oak, red oak, chestnut oak, hackberry, honey locust, red maple. Pop- lars and silver maple will be very short lived. Norway maple is apt to burn by reflected heat. It is unfortunate that so little systematic or careful tree planting has been done in our seaside communities. A little active interest, and time of course, would transform their bare, sunny streets to avenues of shade. Specific Characters of the Most Available Trees for Planting. AILANTHUS. A tree (Ailanthus glandulosus, Desf.,), imported from Asia, of luxuriant habit and ornamental appearance. It grows with remarkable rapidity in almost any kind of soil and makes a valuable tree for wide avenues. It is not well adapted to narrow streets. The tree is objected to on ac- count of the litter produced by its leaves and abundant fruit, its early defoliation, and especially the offensive odor of the male flowers. This last, however, is easily avoided by plant- ing only pistillate trees, since male and female flowers are often found on separate individuals. The tree is remarkably free from disease arid insect pests and is well thought of in Paris; where it has been largely planted. It is a favorite in several cities in this country also, notwithstanding the error made by planting staminate trees in some cases. MOST AVAILABLE TREES FOR PLAXTIXG. 57 ASH. Of all the ashes, the white ash (Fraxinus Americana, L.) has the most desirable qualities as a shade tree. It requires a rich soil and does best in the presence of considerable mois- ture. Under favorable conditions it grows fairly rapidly and attains a good size with a moderately broad, open crown and thin foliage. It makes a desirable tree where a moderate shade is wanted in summer and much sunlight in winter. The tree has few enemies and is little subject to disease. The chief objection to it as a shade tree is that the leaves come late in the spring and fall very early. The European ash is less desirable than this. Green ash (F. pennsylvanica, rar. lanceolata Sarg.) is a comparatively small tree but hardier than white ash. It is planted largely in the West and should have a place here on narrow streets and where onlv a moderate shade is wanted. BASSWOOD OR LINDEN. The most important species is Tilia Americana, L., a beau- tiful, large tree with compact crown, broad lustrous leaves, and a curious winged fruit. This is an admirable tree for avenues and streets of moderate width where sun glare is not excessive. On closely paved streets, and near brick or stone buildings, the tree suffers seriously from sunburn. Bass- wood requires good soil and considerable care. Where that can be given its beautiful foliage and fragrant flowers justify its planting. Under other conditions it should not be at- tempted. The European linden is apparently less able to withstand the trying conditions of city streets than the na- tive species. BEECH. This tree has no value for street planting, but either the native species (Fagus Americana, Sweet) or the European (F. sylvatica, L.) makes a beautiful lawn tree. They require 58 SHADE TREES. rich, well drained soil and grow rather slowly. Under free conditions the tree is quite short but develops a broad heavy crown which casts a dense shade. There are many orna- mental forms of the European species — as purple-leaved, cut- leaved and drooping. Many of the leaves adhere to the branches through the winter, a habit that some people con- sider a fault, others like the constant rustle of the dried leaves, as well as the appearance of the tree when most others are bare. This tree should never be planted where sunlight is wanted winter or summer. Fig. 28. Beech. This and other trees grown on a lawn not sacri- ficed when street was cut through. Courtesy of Newark Shade Tree Commission. CATALPA. All the species of catalpa should be considered ornamental rather than practical shade trees. The southern catalpa (Catalpa catalpa, Karst) is a scrawny, irregular tree, but very picturesque in maturity, especially when covered with its large white bloom. The foliage and flowers appear quite late, and the leaves arc blackened by the first frost or often at- tacked by fungi. The hardy catalpa (Catalpa specwsa, En- MOST AVAILABLE TREES FOR PLANTING. 59 gelm) grows more upright and is sometimes used as a shade tree, yet its large tender leaves, susceptible to frost as well as to burning by reflected heat, make it undesirable. The Japanese species (Calalpa bungei and C. kaempferi) are purely ornamentals of small size. CHESTNUT. This is a large tree of very rapid growth (Costarica den- iaia, Borkh), and formerly was one of the most valuable na- tive species, but since the appearance of the bark disease (see page 101), not a single chestnut tree should be planted any- where. The paragon, or large fruited chestnut, from Europe is advocated for its nuts, but it is apparently susceptible to the same disease. ELM. Xo other tree, native or foreign, combines so many de- sirable qualities for a street tree as the American, or white, elm (Ulmus Americana, L.) It grows too large for narrow streets, but for those of moderate width, and for avenues, it has no superior. The trunk commonly divides at from ten to fifteen feet above the ground and forms a broad, high- arching crown with pendent branchlots. The tree requires reasonably good soil and plenty of moisture, and under fa- vorable conditions grows comparatively rapidly. The leaves are rather small and the shade produced not too dense. The autumn foliage is not notable. White elm is subject to several diseases, but throughout 2^ew England, and in this State, its chief enemy is an insect called the elm leaf beetle. (See page 67.) This, however, should not deter anyone from planting the tree for the insects can always be con- trolled. Slippery elm (Ulmus fulva, Michx.), and other na- tive species have no especially desirable qualities as shade trees. The English field elm (Ulmus campestris L.) and the Scotch elm (Ulmus monlana, Bauh.) are sometimes planted as ornamentals. 60 SHADE TREES. Fig. 29. Neither new road nor new trees require the sacrifice of a fine old elm. GINKGO. A tree (Ginfcgo biloba, L.) introduced thirty or forty years ago from Eastern Asia. It grows rapidly on almost any soil, develops a narrow cylindrical or conical crown that adapts it well to narrow streets, and is apparently not af- fected by insects or disease. The fan-shaped leaves with straight veins are unlike those of any native tree and their bright coloring in the fall sometimes rivals that of the maples. The only objection thus far made to the ginkgo as a street tree is that its fruit, an oily nut, is sometimes malodorous. Even where the heat reflected from paved streets is considerable the tree thrives. It promises to be one of our most valuable species. MOST AVAILABLE TREES FOR PLANTING. 61 GUM. Of the various gum trees only sweet gum, or bilsted (Liquidambar styraciflua, L.) is suitable for street plant- ing. This, however, is one of the very best, since it adapts itself to many conditions, develops a symmetrical, narrow crown, and is most attractive throughout the year. The tree prefers moist, even wet ground, but grows fairly well under less favorable conditions. Extreme care must be ex- ercised in transplanting as the roots are tender and lose their vitality if allowed to dry. The star-shaped leaves color gorgeously in the fall, and when they are gone the pendent spiky fruit heads adorn the tree ihroughout the winter. Many of the branches are furnished with curious corky ridges, or wings, sometimes upwards of an inch in width. Sour gum, or black gum (Nyssa sylvatica, Marsh.), also called tupelo, and pepperidge, is a tree of quite different character. It grows under most adverse conditions, but is apparently not well suited for street planting. As an orna- mental, however, it well deserves a place. HACKBERRY. A tree (Celtis occidenialis, L.) closely related to the elms, but of more upright habit and thrifty in poor soils. It is especially well suited to narro\v and moderately wide streets and to the most trying conditions. Almost every mature tree exhibits curiously knotted branchlets called "witches broom," the result of disease. This, however, does no ma- terial harm. (See page 106.) HORSE CHESTNUT. A tree (Acsculus hippocastanum , L.) native to the Medi- terranean countries, and often planted in the cities of Europe, yet not especially valuable there or here. Its fine form, beautiful leaves, which unfold very early, and great panicles of white flowers are its chief recommendations. It is also hardy in moderately good soil, and grows with fair 62 SHADE TREES. rapidity. Against these recommendations must be set its susceptibility to insect and fungus attack, the early fall of its leaves, the litter produced by its fruit and the liability to injury by reflected heat when planted on sunny streets. A tree of undoubted value for parkways and lawns, but it should be used with discrimination in other situations. One or two native horse chestnuts, or buckeyes, especially A. glabra, Wild and A. odandra, Marsh., are also sometimes planted. LOCUST. Common, black, or yellow locust (Robinia pseudacacia, L.) is so subject to injury by the borer worm (see page 83) that it should never be planted in this part of the country, either along the streets or on lawns. This is unfortunate because the light foliage and narrow form of the crown, with the hardiness and adaptability of the tree, make it an admirable one for street planting. Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos, L.), however, is less apt to be injured in this way. The tree is very hardy, not particular about the soil in which it stands, and a fairly rapid grower. Apart from the beauty of the foliage, which is unusually light and open, the flowers are full of honey and the stout thorns with which the trunk and branches are clothed make it particularly at- Fig. 30. Trees left above grade. If others are planted at x, x, x, the old ones can be removed in a few years without injuring the property. MOST AVAILABLE TBEES FOR PLANTING. 63 tractive. If these thorns are objectionable they can be re- moved or a thornless horticultural form may be used. The tree is somewhat late in unfolding its leaves, yet that is hardly a disadvantage. The long, coarse, pods that litter the I »avcments in the fall, or hang on the branches in winter, are more objectionable. MAPLE. .N'«> trees have been more widely used for street planting than the maples, yet in too many cases the wrong species has been, employed, or the trees used in situations to which they an- imt suited. White, silver or soft maple (Acer sacchari- num, L.) is planted everywhere, yet it is a poor tree, and for the reasons given on page 13 is not recommended. Nor- way maple (A. platanoides, L.) is altogether the best tree that we have for streets of moderate width. It is symmetri- cal in form, adaptable to almost any soil, hardy, and a fairly rapid grower. In autumn its foliage takes on the most bril- liant coloring. The tree is little subject to serious diseases. Though several insects frequently attack it they usually do little harm. The drying of the leaves often noticed in early snmmer is usually due to deficient moisture, or to sunburn. It is to be prevented whenever possible, though it rarely does harm. (See page 116.) Red maple (A. rubrum, L.) is of somewhat more slender habit than Norway maple and thrives best in moist soil. It also is a good tree for streets of mod- erate width, though it sometimes suffers from sunburn. The younger branches are reddish and in autumn the coloring of rhe foliage is brilliant. Sugar maple (A. saccharum, Marsh.) is a larger tree than Norway maple, though in many respects so much like it that the two are often hard to dis- tinguish. It thrives in cool situations, but invariably suffers when planted along paved streets. Except on wide streets with parking the Norway maple is always to be preferred. Ash-leaved maple, or box elder (A. negundo, L.) is a small tret- whose only merit is that it accommodates itself to ad- verse conditions. It is short lived like silver maple, and is not recommended for the same reasons. 64 SHADE TREES. OAK. It is decidedly unfortunate that the many oaks found in this country have not furnished more street trees. As a family they are undoubtedly the best shade trees that we have, for, with few exceptions, they are beautiful, long lived, and little subject to insects or disease. When properly planted and taken care of the growth of many of them is not slow. The following species are recommended. Red oak (Quercus rubra, L.), one of our grandest forest trees, is suit- able for broad avenues. It is satisfied with comparatively poor soil, develops a straight, sturdy trunk surmounted by a broad symmetrical crown, not too dense, and its foliage turns a brilliant color in autumn. It is the most rapid grow- ing of the oaks. Scarlet oak (Q. coccinea, Muench.) is much like red oak, but smaller in size, and does well on even poorer soil. Its leaves also are brilliantly colored in the fall, and quite persistent. Pin oak (Q. palustris, Muench.) grows taller and more slender than most other oaks and has an unusually straight stem. It is thoroughly at home on moist ground, but does not do well where it is dry. The leaves are less brilliantly colored than those of red and scarlet oaks and are apt to persist through the winter. Several fine avenues of this tree may be seen in Washington, D. C., and on Long Island. The white oaks, including bur oak, swamp white oak, chestnut oak and the English oak, are less valu- able for street planting than for lawns. All are compara- tively short but sturdy and with broad crowns. They are the longest lived of all our deciduous trees, and, contrary to the general impression, not at all slow growing when suitably located. SYCAMORE. A tree (Platanus occidentalis, L.) which normally, and under favorable conditions, grows to an enormous size, but is capable of being pruned and trained to meet the conditions imposed by streets of moderate width. It prefers a rich, MOST AVAILABLE TREES FOB PLANTING. 65 muist soil and in that grows very rapidly. Its peculiar habit of shedding its bark every year especially adapts it to loca- tions in which there is much smoke. The leaves unfold late and are not brilliantly colored in the fall, but the globular fruit which persists through the winter, the free habit of the m e and its vigorous growth, recommend it highly. In some localities a fungus attacks the leaves just after they unfold, but the injury is not apt to be very serious or permanent. (See page 97.) Some planters prefer the European syca- more, or plane tree (P. orientalis, L.), yet its superiority is at least doubtful. It is said that one-third the trees planted in Paris are American sycamores. TULIP POPLAR. Liriodendron tulipifera, L., a magnificent tree suitable • aily for wide avenues with broad grass spaces, or for lawns. It absolutely requires good, well-drained soil ; when that is given it grows with unusual rapidity and forms a tall, straight trunk with a comparatively narrow crown. Under other conditions it suffers from sunburn and many diseases. 5 Insects Injurious to Shade Trees. By JOHN B. SMITH, Sc.D., State Entomologist. * GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. Iii the following pages it is intended to refer to the lead- ing species of insects infesting shade trees in the briefest possible manner only and to give, in the same way, directions for treatment. If further details are desired concerning the habits or characters of the insects referred to, they can be found in the Bulletins and Reports of the Fuller in- -v T A -n • n • formation .New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Stations, obtainable. to which reference is also made for further information con- cerning insecticides and insecticide machinery. The colored plates exhibiting the more important insects were prepared by Mr. John A. Grossbeck, then an assistant in the author's laboratory. The drawings were made from published figures, credited as to source in Bulletin 181 of the Xew Jersey Agricultural Experiment Stations. The order in which the insects are referred to here, is an indication of their relative importance. THE ELM-LEAF BEETLE. PL IV., Figs. 5, 5a, 5b. The adult beetle lives through the winter, hiding in attics and other sheltered places. When the first elm leaves are full grown in spring it becomes active, begins eating irregu- lar holes through the leaves and, in about a week, lays eggs. These hatch into yellow and black slugs which Attaeks feed on the underside of the leaves, eating only elms only- the surface layer of cells, and cause them to turn brown, dry and drop. Early in July the larvae crawl to the base of the *Died March 12th, 1912. (67) 68 SHADE TREES. tree, change to yellow pupae and by August 1st have changed to beetles. These feed for a few days and then go into hid- ing, to reappear the spring following. Attack elms only. Remedial Measures. Spray the infested trees with Paris green, 1 pound in 125 gallons of water, or, preferably, 1 pound of dry arsenate of lead in 25 gallons of water, as soon as the first beetle is seen feeding in spring, and soak the leaves thoroughly. The ob- ject is to kill the beetles before they can lay eggs, and there- fore promptness and thoroughness are essential. (See page 88.) If there has been delay and some eggs are already laid, it will be desirable to spray a second time as soon as larval feeding is observed, and this time every effort prevent ser- must be made to hit the leaves from the under- side, because there is where the larvae feed. If, nevertheless, any considerable number of slugs come to the ground to pupate, kill them off with boiling hot water or by sprinkling with kerosene. Cotton batting or sticky bands do no 2;ood. THE WHITE-MARKED TUSSOCK MOTH. Plate V., Figs. 2, 2a, 2b, 2c, 2d. Winters on the trees in the egg-stage, in a little white mass on the cocoon of the female. Young caterpillars hatch in May and feed on almost all ordinary shade trees. Cater- pillars when full grown have a bright red head, long pencils of black hair fore and aft, and stubby brushes of yellow hair on the back. General color yellow with a black various stripe on back. Become full grown toward end of June and spin up anywhere on trees, on fences, under window ledges and other shelter on houses. In July the males emerge as dusty gray moths which nutter IXSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 69 about in the early evening and seek the females which are wingless and rest on the cocoons out of which they emerged. The females lay egg-masses on these cocoons, cover them with a snow-white frothy secretion and die. Some of these eggs hatch and there is a partial second hrood ; abundant in South Jersey, scant in ^orth Jersey. Remedial Measures. Clean off all egg-masses on trees during winter and band the trees in early May with fluffy cotton to prevent cater- pillars from getting up from other trees. If the trees are infested spray with Paris green or arsenate of Band trees lead as prescribed for elm-leaf beetle. Arse- for this> nate of lead sticks better, never hurts foliage and, if well ap- plied, needs only one application. The earlier it is used after infestation is noted the better results will be. THE BAG-WORM, DROP-WORM OR BASKET- WORM. Plate V., Figs. 3, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d. Winters in the egg-stage in a gray silken bag or sack, which may be found attached to trees and shrubs of almost all kinds, coniferous as well as deciduous. The eggs hatch in May and the young caterpillars at once make a little bag or sack which is enlarged as they grow and in which they live during their caterpillar life. Feed on the foli- kinds of age, openly until July, then change to pupae within their bags and in August the male moth emerges. This is black, very active, with transparent wings and is rarely seen. The female does not leave the bag but, after impregnation, lays her eggs in a mass of orange cottony ma- terial, then wriggles to the opening, drops to the ground and dies. 70 SHADE TKEES. EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV. 1. 3. The Cottony Maple Scale; Pulvinaria inniimerabilis. la. Pulvinaria acericola; found only on leaves. 2. The Oyster-shell Scale, Hytilaspis pomorum, natural size. 2a. " " female, enlarged. 2b. " male, enlarged. 3. Cottony Maple Scale, male, enlarged. 3a. " one of the recent sets, enlarged. 4. The Scurfy Scale, Chionaspis fiirfunis, natural size. 4a. " female, enlarged. 4b. " male, enlarged. 5. Elm leaf with Eggs and Larvae of The Elm-leaf Beetle, Galerucella luteola, natural size. 5a. Elm-leaf Beetle larva, enlarged. 5b. Adult Elm-leaf Beetle. 6. San Jose Scale. Aspidiotus perniciosus, enlarged. See Fig. 32. PLATE IV; See descriptions opposite 3af ^ PLATE V: See descriptions opposite LXSECTS IXJURIOUS TO SHADE TKEES. 71 EXPLANATION OF PLATE V. 1. The Fall Web- Worm ; Hyphantria cunea — adult laying eggs, la. " " adult moth expanded. Ib. " " pupa. Ic. " " larva. Id. " " varietal larva. 2. The White-marked Tussock Moth; Notolophus leucostigma, larva. 2a. " " female pupa. 2b. " " male pupa. 2c. " " female on egg mass. 2d. " " male moth, natural position. 3. The Bag- Worm ; Thyridopteryx ephemerceformis, male adult. 3a. " over-wintering bag which contains the eggs. 3b. " " larva. 3c. " female pupa. 3d. " male pupa. 4. The Wood Leopard Moth ; Zeuzera pyrina, male. 4a. " " " larva from above. 4b. " " " larva from side. 4<-. Work of the larva of the Wood Leopard Moth. SHADE TKEES. Remedial Measures. On shrubs, and especially Arborvitse and other ever- greens, pick off the bags during the winter and burn them. On trees, where that is not feasible, spray thoroughly with arsenate of lead or Paris green as recommended for the elm- pick off lea^ beetle, just as soon as the young caterpillars bnss* are observed issuing from the bags. Conifers will not stand Paris green, but may be safely treated with arsenate of lead. There is only one brood of this species and winter work is especially recommended on hedge plants which are sometimes dense and not easily sprayed. THE COTTONY MAPLE SCALE. Plate IV., Figs. 1, 3, 3a. Attacks Maples only, among shade trees; but found also on Vitis, Ampelopsis and other plants. The impregnated female winters as a brown scale on the twigs, resumes feeding in May, and late in that month or in early June begins to exude a white cottony mass in which a thousand eggs or Attacks more are laid. The minute young hatch in late t"e!es,mbutle June or early July, crawl about a few hours other plants. anc[ |]aeil se^ on leaves, twigs and branches and suck the juices. When the insects are abundant, the leaves turn a sickly yellow, often become covered with honey dew, and badly infested branches may die. The insects mature in late August and September; the males issue as minute 2- winged flies, impregnate the female and die. The latter move from leaves to twigs and fix themselves firmly for the winter. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 73 Remedial Measures. This species is ordinarily kept in check by its natural enemies ; but sometimes it escapes and becomes conspicuously abundant. It is always well, where easily accessible twigs are observed with forming white cottony masses in June, to cut them off and destroy them by fire, and ordinarily • needs no this may in ordinary seasons be all that is neces- control. sary. If the infestation is very bad, cut off an infested twig in late June and lay it in a box on a sheet of white paper. When the paper becomes covered with rusty crawling dust- like particles the young are hatching, rhen spray the infested portions of the tree with whale-oil soap, 1 pound in 4 gallons of water, or with kerosene emulsion 1 part to 12 parts of water. (See also page 78.) THE WOOD LEOPARD MOTH. Plate V., Figs. 4, 4a, 4b, 4c. This insect winters in the caterpillar stage in the wood of a great variety of deciduous shade and fruit trees, favoring maple and elm among the former. They live in the trees as borers for two full years, and in the spring of the third change to a pupa and then to an adult which is a large white moth with black spots, the males being strongly Attacks attracted to the electric light. The full-grown S?g^J,nJut borer is two inches or more in length and often locally. girdles branches of considerable size, or even the trunks of small trees. It is common only in the cities and towns in the east central part of the State from Paterson to Long Branch and west to ^ew Brunswick, doing its greatest mis- chief in the largest cities where the English sparrows exclude the native birds. 74 SHADE TKEES. Remedial Measures. On small trees the borers can be often found and cut out or destroyed with a soft wire run into their burrow, which opens outwardly, or bisulphide of carbon may be injected. (See page 83.) On larger trees gather and burn all the twigs and branches that fall to the ground or are blown down in high winds. Where dying branches are noticed, KUI one by cut t'nem °^ below the point of apparent injury one* and burn the cuttings. Inject bisulphide of carbon into all holes from which strings of sawdust are ob- served exuding, and plug up the opening with putty. When the moths are observed around the electric or other lights kill every one that comes within reach. Discourage spar- rows and favor all other birds that come into town. OYSTER-SHELL BARK-LOUSE. Plate IV., Figs. 2, 2a, 2b. This is the most common of the armored scales attacking shade trees, and derives its name from the resemblance to one of the very elongate type of oysters. It winters in the egg stage under the scale, and in May or June the eggs hatch into minute yellow crawling atoms that, in 24 hours, set and begin to form small scales. These suck the juices of the twigs and increase in size until midsummer or many trees a little later. Then the males mature as small, two- winged flies, and the females, after im- pregnation, lay their yellowish white eggs which fill the space beneath the scale as the mother gradually shrivels up. South of the red shale line the tendency is to a second brood of these scales and in the sandy pine region the second brood is well denned. North of the red shale there is only one brood. Maples in South Jersey are often very seriously injured. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 75 Remedial Measures. There is only one period at which this insect can be satis- factorily reached; that is when the eggs have just hatched, and while the larvae are moving about or have just set. The exact date cannot be given because it varies with the season and with the section of the State ; but it will be during late May or early June. As soon as the larvae are Spray at observed, spray with whale-oil soap at the rate right time- of 1 pound in 5 gallons of water, or kerosene emulsion 1 part to 12 parts of water. Repeat if possible a week afterward, to reach delayed larvae. This will usually prove effective, and will aid the natural enemies in getting control of the insects. Winter sprays are not useful against this species because the eggs are not affected beneath their scaly covering. THE FALL WEB-WORM. Plate V., Figs. 1, la, Ib, Ic, Id. This species winters in the pupal stage, and early in May the adult moth appears as a medium sized snow-white miller, sometimes more or less black dotted. It lays its eggs in a mass on the underside of a leaf, and the little caterpillars that hatch from them remain together, spinning Attacks a web in which they live and from which they ™Snou«f~ emerge at night to feed. As they grow, the *rees- nest increases in size and may measure two or even three feet across, in large colonies. In July these caterpillars are ma- ture, pupate and soon after produce a second crop of moths which in turn lay eggs from which caterpillars hatch in Au- gust, the nests becoming conspicuous late in that month or early in September. Because most people notice them only at that season they have received the name fall web-worm 76 SHADE TREES. to distinguish them from the tent caterpillars in apple orchards which are most conspicuous in spring. Linden or basswood among the shade trees suffers most from this web- worm which, however, may be found on a great variety of deciduous trees. Remedial Measures. When a forming nest of these caterpillars is observed burn it with a long handled torch, cut it off and tramp it under foot or otherwise destroy it. When the nests are not ac- Destroy cessible or have become so large that cutting nests. would mutilate the tree, spray the foliage around the nests with Paris green or arsenate of lead as recommended for the elm-leaf beetle. It is not necessary to spray the entire tree, for the caterpillars do not move further from their nest than necessary to find food; hence spraying the vicinitv of the nest is all that is needed. THE MAPLE PSEUDOCOCCUS. Late in the summer the trunks, and sometimes the branches, of sugar maples become covered with a white cot- tony or waxy substance, beneath which will be found yel- lowish, crawling, grub-like creatures. These sometimes in- Attacks crease so greatly in number that they form ver- s«sar i table layers, coating the trunks completely and maples only. J J extending to the leaves. When the latter are attacked they are apt to turn yellow and drop, so that in severe eases a tree becomes partly defoliated earlier in the season than is normal. The insect winters in the partly grown condition, hiding in the crevices of the bark, and not until after mid-summer does it usually become abundant enough to attract attention. INSECTS Ixjruious TO SHADE TREES. 77 Fig. 31. The Maple Pseudococcus : a, the cottony masses covering the adult females on leaf ; 6, young of both sexes on bark From Howard. U. S. Dept. Agl. Remedial Measures. When the infested leaves drop to the ground they should IK- regularly raked up and burnt. In the cities and towns where water pressure is available, a solid jet from a hose on the infested trunk will wash out and destroy the Wasll with vast majority of the specimens, leaving not hose- (in.»iigh to d<> any harm. In winter the tree trunks may be sprayed with one of the niiscible oils like "Scalecide," di- lm< d with ten. parts of water and applied with sufficient force 78 SHADE TREES. to penetrate into every crevice and irregularity of the bark. This will kill the hibernating forms and prevent any start next season. Incidentally, the forcible solid jet just recommended, may be applied with a pump and small nozzle, and this has also been used to dislodge the cottony maple scales (see page 73) from twigs and branches early in the season before the eggs have hatched. „ THE SCURFY SCALE. Plate IV., Figs. 4, 4a, 4b. This scale infests the poplar most frequently, among the shade trees, but is also found on maple and occasionally on others. It is very pale gray, almost as broad as long, with Attacks a yellowish point or head. Beneath this scale chiefly. the purple eggs are found during the winter, and in June they hatch into purplish crawling larvae which have the same general habits of other scale insects, and like them suek the plant juices. There is only a single brood which matures in September, and is rarely abundant enough to do any real injury. Remedial Measures. This scale is thinner than most others of the armored forms, and may be reached by the lime-sulphur or other caus- tic sprays in winter. The caustic corrodes the scaly cover- if serious ^no? an(^ tne eggs wash out and are scattered use caustic. anc] destroyed on the ground. Even caustic lye or soda at the rate of 1 pound in 1 gallon of water will accomplish this. If no winter application is made it will be necessary to wait until the eggs hatch in June, and then apply whale-oil soap or kerosene emulsion as recommended for the oyster-shell scale. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 79 THE SAX JOSE SCALE. Plate IV., Fig. 6; Fig. 32. This is a small, round, blackish scale that passes the winter in the partly grown condition, comes to maturity in early June, bears living young and reproduces throughout the sea- son so that a slight infestation in spring may mean serious danger before the year is over. Not many of the ordinary shade trees are subject to dangerous infestation Attacks when well grown; but young elms, especially moil than of the European varieties, are sometimes much sh«de trees. injured and occasionally killed. Fig. 32. The San Jose Scale : a, on a twig, natural size ; b, as seen under a hand lens, much enlarged. Div. Ent., U. S. Dept Agl. 80 SHADE TREES. Remedial Measures. As this insect bears its young alive, the period of reproduc- tion is spread over a considerable period, and no one applica- tion can reach all, or even a large percentage, of the Iarva3 in the naked condition. In consequence, winter SPRAY. . 7 applications that are either very caustic or very penetrating are resorted to. The caustics are the lime and sulphur washes or whale-oil soap, the latter at the rate of two pounds in one gallon of water. The penetrating materials are petroleum oils, either undiluted or made miscible, or "soluble," in water. The latter are used at the rate of 1 part in 15 parts of water and the application must be very thor- ough to be satisfactorily effective. This is perhaps the most dangerous of all the scales and the hardest to control in the orchards. Fortunately none of our usual city trees seem to its liking, nor does it occur in our forests, although it is able to maintain itself on a number of our forest trees. THE TULIP SOFT SCALE. This is a very large, livid gray scale, nearly l/i of an inch in length, almost as wide and very convex. It occurs only on the tulip tree but sometimes infests that in great num- bers and does more or less mischief, especially on young Attacks trees. It winters in the young stages on the only. twigs, often underneath old scales, begins growth in May and reaches maturity in August when the female is very offensive in odor and filled with a rank pur- plish material. In early September the small black young are born in great numbers and may set on the twigs so densely as to completely obscure the natural color of the bark. INSECTS IXJUKIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 81 Fig. 33. A soft scale as it appears on badly-infested twigs. Remedial Measures. About the only really satisfactory application is undiluted crude petroleum as a winter spray. The miscible oils di- luted no more than ten times, may answer the purpose; but have not been sufficiently tested. Whale-oil Xot often soap at the rate of 1 pound in 4 gallons of water J"»«nfui. applied just after they are hatched will kill the young, and this sort of application is feasible on small or moderate sized trees. On very large trees only the winter applications are at all practical. Fortunately this insect has some very ef- f( crive natural checks which usually control it, so that except on young trees we need not often apply treatments. OTHER SCALES. There are a variety of other scales, mostly allies of those already mentioned, that at times infest shade trees, but rarely in sufficient numbers to require active treatment. As a rule winter treatments should be made if the species permits, for there is not at that season any interference of foliage and much stronger mixtures can be used on dormant trees. G 82 SHADE TIZEES. BORERS. A variety of borers infest shade trees and, as a rule, they attack, by preference, such as are weak and sickly. But that is by no means a universal rule. Maple trees are not infrequently infested by a small caterpillar borer that works into the heart-wood though it does little damage unless water finds entrance through their holes and causes decay. (See page 119.) The holes through which they emerge are not over % inch in di- ameter and nearly round. The moth is a pretty, clear- winged species, yellow, with bright red markings. Usually attack weakened trees. Fig. 34. The Maple Tree Sesiid : a, the larva ; 6, cocoons in cavities made by larvae ; c, the adult moth ; d, pupa-shell projecting from trunk. After Riley. As against this species frequent whitewashing the infested trunks and sealing up the holes with putty, is about the only thing that can be done, unless there is a decayed area acting as the centre of infestation. In that case the cavity should be thoroughly cleaned and treated as described on page 45. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 83 In fact, the sort of treatment outlined in the above para- graph may be adopted against borers in general. Sometimes, when sawdust is noticed coming out of an opening, the injec- tion of disulphide of carbon is indicated, plugging up with putty after the injection to prevent the escape of the fumes. C'arbon disulphide may be injected with a syringe, or even the ordinary pipette with rubber bulb such as is used in fill- ing fountain pens. I have a long glass tube drawn to a point, with a large rubber bulb at the squared end, which answers perfectly. It needs only a half teaspoon to a tea- spoonful in any case. Flat headed borers and bark beetles prefer trees that are weak or sickly and, in a general way, it pays to keep trees in vigorous health because of their smaller liability to borer in- festation. When a tree is once badly infested, especially with bark beetles, the sooner it is cut out the better. It is simply a source of infection to its surroundings. Hickory, and still more often Locust, is very subject to the attacks of round-headed borers, and these attack perfectly sound trees. LOCUST BORER. The work of this insect is very common on the black or yellow locust in ISrew Jersey, making it an almost, impossible tree. As soon as a tree attains a moderate size IT is apt to be riddled with the large holes made i>iack locust by the larvae and leads but a sickly life, if it does not die within a few years. The beetles themselves are rather attractive creatures, about three-fourths of an inch long, of a dull black color, brightly marked with golden yellow, and may be found fre- quenting the flowers of the goldenrod. In September these beetles gather on the locust trees and mate, after which the female deposits her snow white eggs in cracks and crevices. These soon hatch and the grubs bore into the bark feeding on the soft inner substance. During the winter they are torpid. In spring they resume feeding, boring through the sapwood 84 SHADE TREES. and making irregular passages more or less deeply into the trunk. Honey locust is little, or not at all, subject to injury by this insect. Remedial Measures. Ordinarily it is impossible to do much to control this in- sect. Some persons have suggested a repellant wash to pro- vent egg deposition. It is certainly advisable ?einedy?tive to eu^ an(l burn badly infested trees during the winter. The beetle seems to like the sun and has a preference for trees somewhat exposed, therefore, thick shady groves wrould be least likely to be attacked. HICKORY BARK BEETLE. This beetle occurs throughout the State, boring under the bark of feeble or dying hickories, often killing shade trees that would otherwise have recovered under stimulating treat- ment. The beetles, which are small, brown or only to black, about one-fifth of an inch long, appear from the latter part of June to the latter part of July. Attacking the bark of the trunk and large branches, each female makes a vertical gallery an inch or more in length. Notches are cut in the sides of this burrow, for the purpose of holding the eggs. After hatching, the grubs construct channels diverging from the main gallery. (See Fig. 35.) The winter is passed by the nearly full grown grubs, which pupate the following spring. INSECTS IXJURIOFS TO SHADE TREES. 85 Fig. 35. Work of the hickory bark beetle. Remedial Measures. Where a slight infestation is noticed on a tolerably healthy tree, the tree should be stimulated by means of appropriate fertilizers (see page 25), and the trunk kept covered by whitewash to which Paris green has been added. Strong whale-oil soap suds will answer the same purpose. If a tree is seriously infested, it should be cut down at once and burned, as it is certain to die in a short time anyhow and is only a menace to surround- ing trees. PLANT LICE. Most of our shade trees suffer from plant lice to a greater or less extent, and none more than the Norway maples. These insects multiply very rapidly, suck the juices of the 86 SHADE TKEES. leaves and succulent shoots, and so exhaust their vitality. When they become abundant the honey dew ex- Maple louse. -,-,-, • -, creted by them sometimes covers the leaves with a sticky secretion that may be abundant enough to drop to the street below. This secretion tends to clog the foliage so that it may drop while yet perfectly green, and a black soot fungus is also likely to develop. Fortunately this sort of attack does not continue after the first spell of hot dry weather, and during a normal season is not apt to be bad at all. Remedial Measures. As against plant lice of all kinds on shade trees, nothing is much better than whale-oil soap suds and this applies not whaie-oii on^y ^0 those species that attack the leaves but soap- to some that gather along the undersides of branches of conifers. In general, 1 pound in 4 gallons of water is an effective strength, and safe on most kinds of foliage. INSECTS INJURING CONIFERS. Pines and other conifers are not often used as street trees, but are not infrequently found in parks and grounds around residences. They suffer from a variety of insects and are not easily treated, because they are extremely sensitive to most insecticides. Against feeders upon the leaves, arsenate of lead is the only arsenical poison that can be safely used. When plant lice attack them, whale-oil soap suds, one pound in six gallons of water, lib- erally applied, will be safe and reasonably effective. Against those woolly species that are frequently found massed against the underside of the branches, a forcible jet of water is often very satisfactory or the whale-oil soap may be used, 1 pound in 4 gallons of water, locally applied. If the trees are suf- ficiently valuable, simply scrub the branches with a stiff brush and weak soap suds. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 87 Scales sometimes infest the needles ; but on large trees are never harmful in my experience. On small Tn-cs watch for the hatching of the eggs in r*reiy June and use the whale-oil soap, 1 pound in 6 gallons, liberally. White pines are sometimes deformed by the attacks of the white-pine weevil which lays its eggs in the leaders, the larvae boring into and killing them. It is the young trees that are usually affected and in most instances the form White-i»ine of the tree is permanently spoilt. Fortunately w«evil- the insect is not at all common in !N"ew Jersey, and young trees if kept under observation may be protected by collect- ing the adults or, what is more practical, keeping the leaders sprayed during May and June with whale-oil soap suds one pound in six gallons of water, adding half a pound of arse- nate of lead to this mixture. If the leaders are at any time observed to be lacking in vigor or to be unnaturally yellow in color, they should be carefully examined, and if any signs of feeding are noticed every puncture should be followed with a soft wire to reach the feeding larva?. If this is clone in time the shoot will recover. If the feeding is already well advanced so that re- covery seems doubtful cut and destroy by fire. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. Shade trees in general should be kept free from dead or dying wood, and all cut wood should be destroyed by fire. It is always in order to clean the bark during the winter by means of soda or lye washes which get rid of the growth in or under which many insects hibernate. A strong soap solution, even of ordinary laundry soap, will often do a great deal of good, and it can be used to advantage on the waxy plant lice or mealy scale bugs during the winter. When there is an application of an arsenical spray to be made, the sooner it is done the better the effect ; young or 88 SHADE TKEES. partly grown specimens succumbing more rapidly and easily than more nearly mature forms. A single defoliation rarely harms a deciduous tree very much; but successive defolia- tions weaken and eventually kill. And always a healthy, well fed tree is less attacked by insects than a sickly starved example which gives up in despair at the least provocation and invites attack bv its verv inabilitv to resist. SPRAYING. Among the first things that must be realized in planning work to avoid insect injury to city trees, is that by no means all kinds of trees are equally subject to such injury, nor is Municipal tnere ail7 one treatment that is equally effective work. ngainst all insects. There may be one city with 1,000 trees on which insect injury may be kept down by a single man during the season; another with half that num- ber may require a power sprayer and a gang to run it for a month. At the beginning, find out what trees there are and their condition. Then, with the assistance of the entomologist, you are in position to determine what outfit is needed to carry on the work. It is quite possible to get a cheap sprayer, which is, at first, adequate when run to the limit; but no piece of machinery does well for any consider- mSshlne?0* a^e Pei>iod when run to the limit, and a cheap outfit is usually a small one. You can get a barrel with a pump that will force a spray to the top of even a large elm, and I have personally worked with such an out- fit; but it was hard on the man at the pump, the tendency was to lose pressure and too much time was lost in the fre- quent tank fillings required. For municipalities with trees running into the thousands, power sprayers are essential, but no municipality that needs a sprayer at all, should get anything less than a 200-gallon tank upon which a pump capable of furnishing 100 pounds of pressure to two lines of hose should be mounted. The INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 89 pump need not be of large capacity, for it is not expected to throw large quantities of water in a short time; but it should have a large air chamber and should be capable of -applying a maximum amount of pressure with a minimum amount of work. The stroke need not be long, but the lever should be long and strong, and the pump should be hori- zontal, not vertical. An up and down stroke is tiresome and cannot be long maintained without losing in strength; a horizontal stroke may be aided by the weight of the body, and both or either hand and arm may be used. All these matters are important, because upon the amount and uni- fnniiitv of the pressure the thoroughness of the , .• , ** , . The pump. work depends in large measure. The working parts of the pump should be of brass, the valves and packing should be of metal and the valve seats should be readily ac- cessible. Such a piece of machinery will stand every rea- -« -liable strain that is likely to be put upon it, and will come "in at the end of the season almost as good as it was at the beginning. It will never be worked to its limit in tree spray- ing, and with reasonable care will last many years without much expense. Such a pump is never cheap at first cost, but is a cheap pump in the long run. Of course no piece of apparatus is entirely fool proof, and that fact should be kept in mind when hiring men to work it. There should be two lines of % hose, best quality, each 100 feet in length, and there should be 6 or 8 foot gas pipe spray rods, at the ends of which the nozzles should be fixed. There should be a shut-off at the base of each spray-rod and one rod should have a solid jet nozzle for reaching the tops of trees, while the other should have an adjustable or bor- deaux nozzle for making a spray to reach the lower branches. As to the poison to be used, there is nothing better than arsenate of lead for all leaf-feeding insects, and for choice I prefer the dry, powdered form because of its greater con- venience in handling and because of its keeping Arsenatc qualities. If the paste form is used, it should of lead> bo purchased on guarantee of percentage of arsenic, for it runs all the way from 12 per cent, to 20 per cent., and may 90 SHADE TIIEES. be a pure material in each instance. Anything that rims 15 per cent, or over is good, and nearly all the leading brands sold in the State reach that percentage. The dry material runs 30 per cent., and is therefore about twice as strong as the average paste. None of the leading brands have more than a trace of soluble arsenic, and practically it is impos- sible to injure the foliage of any shade tree with any mixture likely to be put on by even an ignorant laborer. All the commercial tank sprayers have an agitator which keeps the spraying mixture stirred while pumping, and some- thing of that sort is needed in any case, so as to make sure that the material is uniform throughout the spraying period. In all cases the poison should be first mixed up with water in a paii or tub so as to get it into a smooth thin paste. This should be gradually run into the tank while filling, and the agitator should be kept constantly going, so as to get a thor- stir the oughly even poisonous mixture to start with. mixture. Then, while a slow settling does begin almost immediately, it is very slow and the mixture can be kept in proper shape with very little stirring. It is always better to use up a tank full of mixture completely, as soon as pos- sible after it is made, and it should never be allowed to stand over night. It never stirs up quite as completely next day, and if part of a tank remains unused at the end of a day's work, better take out the plug and let it rim to waste than try to save it for a future day. With a proper outfit and a good crew, the next point is to get the material on in such a way as to be most effective. An ideally effective application would be one in thSroigbiy? wThich every leaf received an even and complete coating of the spray, so that not a particle of the foliage could be eaten by any insect without its receiving at the same time a dose of poison. As we cannot hope for ideally effective work, we must try and get as close to it as possible, remembering always that no one insect eats very much, and that every female specimen that gets a safe meal may lay a batch or two of eggs before getting another, and perhaps fatal, bite. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO SHADE TREES. 91 The lesson of thoroughness cannot be too strongly incul- cated, and it is better to be wasteful of time and material to secure this, than to do much in an unsatisfactory way. Every missed branch will stand out later, and to avoid this the crew should be taught to work in some systematic manner, so as t< i reach all parts of a tree. Concerning the cost of machinery and operation, no one set of figures will cover all conditions. A barrel pump outfit complete, with a short line of hose, rod and nozzle can be had for as low as fifteen or twentv dollars, . . Cost. while a power sprayer consisting ol an engine, pump, 200-gallon tank and truck may cost from fhree hun- dred dollars up. As for the cost of operating, this depends on the size of your apparatus, number of men necessary to operate it, num- ber of trees and their accessibility, availability of water and in fact numerous other conditions, which will not become apparent until the work is under way. Where conditions are favorable large trees are often well sprayed for as little as one dollar each. Whatever the cost, if one succeeds in checking insect ravages, he will be amply repaid by the in- creased vigor and beauty of the trees. Diseases of Shade and Forest Trees. By MEL. T. COOK, State Plant Pathologist. The increasing appreciation of the great commercial value of our native forests, and of the importance of trees for shade and ornamental purposes, has stimulated the study of methods for the proper care of trees. This conservation movement has been emphasized by the ravages of the chest- nut blight, or bark disease, and our growing knowledge of other threatening diseases. The fact that it is possible to prevent the loss of many fine trees, which it has required years to grow, makes it very desirable that we should give careful attention to this subject. Trees, in fact all other plants, are subject to diseases which are due to more or less well known causes and are as well defined as the diseases which attack animals, causes of Like the diseases of animals, the diseases of <"»«*»«• plants may cause loss of color, loss of parts, deformities and, in some cases, death. The diseases of both animals and plants are caused by fungi, bacteria, insects, worms, unfavor- able surroundings, etc. Among animals the most common causes of disease are bacteria, while among plants the fungi are responsible for by far the greater number. A fungus is a plant which does not possess the green color- ing matter, chlorophyll, and therefore cannot draw its nour- ishment from the air, soil and water, but must live upon other plants and animals, living or dead. Those which live upon and draw their nourishment from living organisms are known as parasites and are the causes of ,. IT 11 Parasites manv diseases; those that live upon dead mat- and . mi /• saprophytes. ter are known as saprophytes. Ihe fungus may be so small as to require the use of the miscroscope in order to see it, or it may be a minute thread-like structure (93) 94 SHADE TREES. which grows over the surface of, or penetrates, its host, eventually coming to the surface to produce its fruiting bodies or sporophores. These sporophores may vary in size from the microscopic in some species to the very large structures of other species which are usually known as mush- rooms or toadstools. These familiar fruiting bodies on trees may be from parasitic fungi which cause diseases, or they may be from saprophytic fungi which follow diseases and live on the dead and decaying material. In order to defi- nitely determine this point it is necessary for the observer to be familiar with the organisms. Some of these fungus diseases are very destructive to forest, shade and ornamental trees, and every effort should be made to eradicate or control them, but most Not all ... m, fungi of them are of minor importance. I he ma- jority of the large fungus growths are sapro- phytic, and although not the cause of diseases they destroy great quantities of timber which would otherwise be useful. In this paper only the more common and conspicuous dis- eases will be discussed, but some others which at the present time are of minor importance in the State will be mentioned. Any part of the plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits, are subject to the attack of diseases, but the disease is not always manifest at the point of attack, diseases. i. c., a disease of the roots may frequently be detected by a dying of the leaves and branches. For con- venience the diseases of trees may be arbitrarily grouped as follows : 1. Diseases of the foliage. 2. Diseases of the stems. 3. Diseases of the roots. 4. Diseases due to environment. 5. Other diseases. DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 95 1. DISEASES OF THE FOLIAGE. The foliage contains the greater amount of the green color- ing matter, or chlorophyll, by which a plant is enabled to utilize the raw food materials which it receives from the air and soil. Therefore any great reduction of the foliage sur- face during the growing season results in a proportional reduction in the working power of the plant and also mars its beauty for ornamental purposes. Fig. 36. Chestnut Leaf Spot. (From Report of X. J. Experiment Station, 1896, Fig. 59.) LEAF SPOTS. I In >e diseases are caused by a number of parasitic organ- •m<. principally fungi and bacteria, which cause discolored a- J Sycamore. similar to that caused by irost. The most important of the anthraciioses on shade and ornamental trees is that on the Sycamore, caused by the fungus Gnomonia veneta* (Sacc. and Speg.) Kleb. In. the ( arlier stages of the disease it follows the veins of the leaves, from which it eventually spreads. It also attacks the young shoots. In severe cases the leaves are entirely browned and withered and have very much the appearance of those in- jured by frost, for which the disease is frequently mistaken. It often kills the young shoots and sometimes kills the seed- lings and young trees. This fungus is also said to cause leaf spots on several species of oak. Treatment. Dead branches should be pruned out and the rough, loose bark which may retain the disease should be removed and bumed. The trees should also be sprayed with copper sul- phate or lime-sulphur during the resting period, then with Bordeaux mixture soon after opening of the buds, again in ten days and again ten days later. POWDERY MILDEWS. The powdery mildews are due to fungi and are well known on many plants. These fungi, unlike the preceding, do not *One stage of this fungus has been described under the name Gloeosporium ncrrifteyuuiri Fckl. by which it was long known and by which is was referred to in the Fourth Annual Report of the Forest Park Reservation Commission of New Jersey 1908. 7 98 SHADE TREES. penetrate the foliage, except so far as may be necessary for the formation of holdfasts, but spread over the surface of the foliage forming a delicate white web which has much the appearance of dust. One of the most important of these mildews is Micro- sphceni aim (Wallr.) Wint. which attacks lilacs and also occurs on the oaks, birches, dogwoods and some other plants. Another very common mildew is Uncinula solids (D. C.) Wint. which occurs on the poplars and willows. As a rule, they do not appear until late in the season and cause very little injury except to young trees and nursery stock. Treatment. Spraying with potassium sulphide (1 Ib. to 50 gal. of water) is an efficient remedy. LEAF CURL. The leaf curls are more or less common on many trees, the most conspicuous being the one on the peach. The most im- portant one on forest and shade trees is due to Taphrina Attacks ccerulescens (Mont, and Desm.) Tul. which oaks- attacks the oaks causing the leaves to appear as though blistered. It is not often injurious but sometimes causes death of trees which have been affected for a number of years. Treatment. The burning of fallen leaves and spraying the trees with copper sulphate or lime-sulphur when dormant will practi- cally eliminate the pest. DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 99 RUSTS. The rusts are among the most highly developed of the parasitic fungi and attack foliage and fruit. Some of them are verv destructive while others are compara- . , .' . .„ ^f f. , , Importance. lively msignmcant. Many ot them have very complicated life histories and require two host plants to com- plete their life cycle and in many cases to perpetuate them- selves. One of the most conspicuous of the rusts is the Gymno- sporangium macropus* Lk., which attacks the red cedar and the apple. On the red cedar they cause the formation of the large reddish brown bodies known as "cedar Cedar apples." During the period of early spring apples. rains the mature cedar apples produce long yellowish or "range colored horns within which are produced great masses of fungus spores. These spores will not attack the cedar but are carried to neighboring apple trees where they attack the leaves, and sometimes the young twigs and fruit, causing yellowish or reddish orange spots. On the under side of each spot are produced a number of small cup-like cavities within which are borne the spores. These spores are in turn carried to the cedars where they attack the young shoots and eventually cause the formation of the next year's crop of 'Vedar apples." Treatment. This fungus may be held in check by removing the cedar apples early in the spring before the maturing of the orange '•'•lured horns, and by the proper spraying of the apple orchards. A moms other interesting diseases of this kind 0 Other plants are the rust, or leaf cast, of the Jersey or scrub affected by pine, the rust of the Scotch and pitch pines which has an alternating stage on the sweet fern, the leaf rust of the hemlock, rusts of the willows, poplars and ashes. * There are several species of Gymnosporangium attacking cedars and with various species of the Pomaceae as their alternating hosts. 100 SHADE TREES. Xone of these rusts are considered serious and treatments arc seldom given. The blister rust of the white pine, however, which attacks the steins is most dangerous and demands most vigorous treatment. (See page 103.) 2. DISEASES OF THE STEMS. The diseases of the stems may be arbitrarily grouped into (a) bark diseases, (b) heart rots, (c) sap rots, and (d) twig diseases. Fig. 37. Chestnut Bark Disease. Forest tree nearly dead. Note characteristic sprouts and dwarfed leaves on sur- viving branches. (Photo by Perley Spaulding.) DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 101 CHESTNUT BARK DISEASE OB BLIGHT. This is probably the most serious tree disease in America at the present time. It is caused by a fungus (Diaporthe l><; i'i. some extent by frequently cutting out the diseased parts and painting the wounds wTith coal tar. In doing this all the primings must be burned. When forest areas become af- fected their final destruction is practically certain, and the owners are advised to convert the entire chestnut growth int< > salable material as rapidly as possible. Otherwise it will prove a complete loss. Material too small for lumber should have the bark removed. All waste material should be burned at once. The severity of this disease, the rapidity of its spread, and the desire of the people to protect their trees have de- veloped a most fertile field for the quack tree-doctors who are claiming to cure trees by secret methods. These Tree fakirs. . ^ . methods usually consist in putting secret prep- arations under the bark or in the soil about the roots of the trees, Similar methods have been used for other tree DISEASES OF SHADE AXD FOREST TREES. 103 diseases in various parts of the country, but without success. Then- jnv no such treatments for diseases of this character known ro -cience, and the authors of these secret methods freely acknowledge that their treatments are not recognized by seinitiric workers. The public is cautioned against patronizing these people. WHITE PINE BLISTER RUST. The blister rust (Pcridennium strobi Klebahn* ) of the white pine, a European disease which has been introduced into this country and apparently stamped out, but which may be introduced again at any time, causes a spindle shaped, or -ometinies irregular warty swelling on the Symptoms. trunks oi seedlings and young trees and upon the young branches of older trees. (Fiii- :^> ) Those -well ings do not occur until one or more years after the in- fection. which makes it impossible to detect the disease in ir> earliest stages. As these swellings approach maturity they form 011 the surface rounded or elongated bodies measur- ing oiie-eigbth to one-half inch across. The bodies have deli- cate, whitish membrane coverings beneath which may be seen masses of orange-colored spores. This membrane ruptures, allowing the spores to escape (April to June), but may per- sist for some time after the spores have been carried awTay. If the spores are carried* to gooseberries or cur- Alternating rants th< y attack the foliage and young shoots ho*ts- and cause the "velvet rust" which produces two kinds of spores, one kind by which the fungus can spread on the L:< " seberries and currants and another by which It is returned to the white pines. The disease is of very little importance on the gooseberries and currants, but is very destructive on the white and other of the five-leaved pines. It attacks none of those with two or three needles. *Pcri1)i Klobahn of the white and other five-leaved pinos is the same as Croiiui-tiuii' i ibicola Diet, of the currant and gooseberry. 104 SHADE TREES. Fig 39. White Pine Blister Rust. A. A four-year-old tree with the disease; B. Leaf of Ribes aureum showing uredospore stage; C. Portion of same enlarged; D. Leaf of Ribes nmericanum showing teleutospore stage. (From Bui. 206, Bureau of Plant In- dustry, U. S. Dept. Agricul.) DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 105 AVitbiii the past few years the demand for white pines for retY'ivstation and for ornamental plantings has been so great that large numbers of the seedlings have been imported from Europe. The disease has been introduced on these seedlings and distributed to many localities in the United States, but fortunately has been kept in subjection. The disease is very destructive to seedlings and young trees and, Destruc- whik nor always destructive, is very injurious «veness. on the older trees. Therefore we should use the greatest caution to prevent its getting a foothold in this country. Treatment. It is not advisable to plant five-leaved pines of European origin. Always use American grown seedlings. Even then the plants should be carefully examined from time to time, and in case the disease appears they should be destroyed im- mediately by burning. There is no known remedy for the disease, and absolutely no safe course to pursue other than burning the diseased plants. COBAL SPOTS. The coral spots on the bark of trees and shrubs are due to fungi belonging to the genus Xectria. They are readily ivcujLuiized by the small brightly colored red or orange fruit- ing l>odies. There are a number of species, but the most important is JY. cinnabarinna (Tode) Fr. which attacks the maple, horse-chestnut and many other deciduous trees. The fungus gains entrance to its host through wounds, gradually spreads, forming well defined cankers within ^ which will be found the highly colored fruiting bodies. When once well established it may spread rapidly from plant to plant and become epidemic. This fungus also attacks currant bushes and pear trees. 10G SHADE TREES. Treatment. The only practical method of control consists in cutting and burning diseased parts. BLACK KNOTS. These unsightly growths occur on the twigs and leaves of some trees. Among the most important are those on the plums and cherries which are caused by the fungus (Plow- rightia morbosa Sacc.), and those upon the hazel caused by the fungus (Cryptosporella anomala Pk.). Treatment. They are of no very great importance 011 shade trees, but can be controlled by cutting out and burning early in the fall and by spraying with copper sulphate or lime-sulphiu* before the buds open in the spring. WITCHES' BROOMS. These conspicuous and unsightly growths are quite com- mon and are due to the attacks of both fungi and insects which cause the formation of masses of short twigs and are sometimes mistaken for mistletoe growths. (See page 107.) The most common and most conspicuous is the one on the hackberry. (Celtis occidentalis L.) This is so common that it is extremely difficult to find a tree that does not have them, and many people consider them a characteristic growth of the hackberry. However, they are a disease, and if the tree is kept free from them, it makes a very beautiful growth. The disease is said to be due to two parasitic organisms, a powdery mildew (Spcerotheca phytoptophila Kell and S. AY. ) and a mite (Eriophyes sp.) DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 107 Some of the species of the cedar rust (Gymnosporangium) page 99) and the leaf curl fungi (see page 98) are also the cause of witches' brooms which die and are broken out l)v the wind storms, thus leaving irregular and unsightly Treatment. A- witches' broom is more unsightly than harmful, it may be ignored or the trees may be pruned as for other defects. MISTLETOES. Mistletoes are true flowering plants which live parasitically upon, many of our native trees. The common American mistletoe (Pliomdendron flavescens (Pursh) ISTutt. is rare in Xcw Jersey, occurring mostly on the black gum and red maple. Where very abundant they are considered serious enemies. It will be readily recognized that parasites of this kind will naturally retard and stunt the growth of the tree. They are also the cause of unsightly swellings and some of them cause witches' brooms. Their life is usually shorter than that of the trees on which they live, and wlif-ii they die and decay they leave cavities S'ctoi!!?*™ which are especially favorable for the introduc- tion of pathogenic fungi and other organisms of disease. .Mistletoes are so rare in this State that most people will be inclined to look upon them as objects of interest rather than rious pests. Treatment. They can be controlled by pruning out the diseased parts and painting the wounds with white lead or coal tar. 108 SHADE TREES. HEART ROTS. Heart rots are extremely destructive to both living and dead trees. They are due to a number of fungi, many of which are both parasitic and saprophytic. The fact that many of these organisms will live on the dead wood from which they readily pass to the living trees makes it very important that all such dead and decaying material be re- moved and burned. WHITE HEART ROT. This is a true disease caused by the false tinder fungus, Fomes igniarius (L.) Gillet. It attacks the beech, aspen, Trees willows, maples, birches, walnuts, oaks, hickory, attacked. apple, etc. The organism gains entrance through wounds and grows in the heart wood which it trans- Fig 40. Fomes igniarius on a living aspen. (From Bui. 149, Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Dept. of Agricul.) forms into a white pulpy mass bounded by one or more black layers. During this period of decay the disease cannot be detected from the outside but after the fungus has progressed two or three feet from the point of entrance it comes to the DISEASES OF SHADE AXD FOREST TREES. 109 surface and produces its sporophores or fruiting bodies. (Fig. 4<>. ) These fruiting bodies usually occur at the original wound and are rather conspicuous but variable in shape, size and color. They may be described as hoof- Fruiting shaped, almost as thick as broad, and some- bo*1*8- times measuring as much as twelve inches in diameter. The upper surface is smooth when young, becoming concentri- cally marked as it grows older. The outer part is hard, brown, gradually becoming black and cracked with age. The pores within which the spores are produced are formed in layers on the underside. The under surface is gray or red- browii in color, varying with the season. The disease works rather slowly, gradually weakening the tree until it is broken by storms. It is one of the most widely distributed of tree diseases and causes enormous losses which, from their wide geographical distribution and wide range of host plants, are extremely difficult to estimate. See also Polyporus sp., p. 111. Treatment. The most satisfactory treatment for shade and ornamental trees is preventive. When trees become infected the dis- eased parts should be removed and the wounds properly cared for as recommended on page 44. RED HEART ROT. This rot is caused by the parasitic fungus (Polyporus sul- pliureus (Bull.) Fr.). It attacks the oaks, chestnut, maples, walnuts, locusts, alder, ash, poplar, willows, apple, etc., and is widely distributed throughout ^orth Trees America and Europe. It gains entrance attacked. through wounds and causes the heart wood to rot and be- come reddish brown or black, the color varying somewhat with the host plant. After a period of growth within the wood, it comes to the surface producing a number of large 110 SHADE TKEES. shelving sporophores or fruiting bodies (Fig. 41) frequently overlapping. \Yhen young the upper surfaces are a bright orange-red with a brighter red rim, very moist, and turn Fig. 41. Polyporus sulfureus on red oak. (Photo by Dr. W. A. Murrill, N. Y. Botanic Garden.) brown when bruised. When mature they are hard, dry, Fruiting brittle and sulphur colored. They are usually bodies. destroyed very early by insects. The treat- ment is the same as for the white heart rot. P. robinicB * Murrill attacks the black locust through wounds and completely destroys the heart wood of living trees. The rot begins at the center of the heart and spreads *P. robinice Murrill = P. rimosus Berkeley. DISEASES OF SHADE AXD FOREST TREES. Ill radially, causing the wood to become soft and yellowish or brownish in color. The sporo- phon-s are large and shelving and usually al- ums t twice as wide laterally as from front to back. The pr< •])('!• care of wounds will help to control the disease but it i- frequently distributed by the locust borer. (See page 83.) Tin- disused parts should be removed and destroyed and the wounds treated. /'. juniperinus Schrenk attacks old red cedar trees caus- ing a white heart rot. The fungus probably gains extrance to tin- tree through dead branches which are most common in old trees. The wood gradually loses its color, becomes whitish and eventually undergoes disintegration leaving holes through the center of branches and trunk. Fruiting bodies are seldom formed. The removal of dead branches and diseased parts will reduce the possibility of infection. P. cameus ".Xees. also causes a white heart rot of both the red cedar and arborvitae. It has been reported in this State as occurring on dead logs but no doubt is Heart rots aUn parasitic. The disease is characterized by andCarbOT-r the formation of pockets or holes containing vitse- more or less brown charcoal-like rotten wood. In advanced suites these holes frequently unite. It should be treated the same as the preceding. P. obtusus Berk, causes a soft heart rot of certain species of the oak but is not of such great importance here as farther wi >t. It is readily distributed by the oak borer (Prionoxys- ///x rol'initi' Peck). It spreads rapidly up and down the trunk and branches causing the heart °*tltheart wood to become soft, white and brittle and very easily broken in slight storms. The sporophores are hoof- shaped, almost white when young, but changing with age to a light brown. P. fraxinophilus Pk. is the cause of an im- ^h portaiit disease of the white ash in the Middle West. It occurs as far east as Albany, Xew York, but has not been reported from New Jersey. P. squamosus (Huds) Fr. is not common and is known 112 SHADE TREES. only in the northern part of the United States. White rot. . . It gains entrance to living trees through wounds, causing a white heart rot. It has been reported on maples, oaks, elm, basswood, willow and ash. Polystictus vesicolor (L.) Fr. (see below) is the cause of a soft heart rot of the catalpa. The disease starts in the center of the trunk or branch, causing the wood to turn pale and finally a straw yellow color. The diseased wood becomes soft and pithy and easily broken. The disease can usually cataipa ^e ^cognized by the holes which are formed heart rot. where diseased branches have been broken off. Trees in the open are not so likely to be attacked as those grown in crowded conditions which result in the natural dying of the lower branches. Treatment. Careful pruning and treatment of wounds will prove ample protection for shade and ornamental trees. SAP ROTS. The sap rots are the cause of considerable losses, and al- though it is impossible to draw a sharp line of distinction between those which are parasitic and those which are sapro- phytic, the majority of the sap rot fungi must be considered primarily saprophytes. Among the most important are the following : The sap rot caused by the fungus (Polystictus versicolor (L.) Fr.) is a true saprophyte, except on -the Catalpa (see above), and attacks cut and fallen timber of many kinds. Although more of a saprophyte than a para- Destroys . * y posts, poies site, the wide distribution and great abundance of this fungus demands that it should receive some attention in this publication. It is especially destruc- tive on railroad ties, posts and poles. It grows in the sap wood, causing a decay and eventually forming its charac- DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 113 thin, tough, leathery, shelving sporophores. (Fig. 42. ) They are variable in size, frequently very numerous and overlapping. The upper surface is marked with con- Fig. 42. Polystictus versicolor on dead bark. (From Report of* Perm. Forestry, 1902, Plate XXII.) centric zones of various colors while the under surface is usually white. The pores of the under surface, within which the spores are borne, are very small and regular. Another sap rot is caused by Polystictus per game nus Fr. It is usually found on dead trees and is quite common on trc< s that have been injured by fire. It also occurs on living 8 114 SHADE TREES. oaks, red gum, maples, birch, chestnut, hickory, tulip, poplar, black cherry, beech, willows and others, especi- Attaeks in- • • i i • • i i jured trees ally those that have been injured, and is widely distributed throughout 2s"orth America. How- ever, it has been questioned whether this fungus ever occurs on the living parts of trees. The general appearance of the decay is very similar to that caused by P. versicolor. (Fig. 42.) The fruiting bodies are leathery, generally white when young but growing gray with age, the upper surface slightly hairy and the lower surface purplish; the pores are small and tend to produce a ragged surface with a.2;e. Treatment. Protection from injury and the proper care of wounds will practically prevent the occurrence of this disease. P. betulinus (Bull) Fr. is the cause of a sap rot on several species of birch and other trees, but whether parasitic or saprophytic is a disputed point. The same is true of P. fomentarius (L.) Fr. Fomes applanatus (Pers.) Wallr., one of the most con- spicuous of our shelving fungi is said to cause a sap rot disease on cottonwoods. However, on most trees it must be considered purely saprophytic. There are a large number of other sap rots heeaeithyfes due to a number of species of fungi occurring on many species of trees. Most of them are saprophytic, but some of them are or may become parasitic, especially on trees which are weakened from other causes. 3. DISEASES OF THE ROOTS. The diseases of roots are very imperfectly understood. They may be due to unfavorable soil conditions, or to fungi, or to both. Probably the most important of these diseases is the rot due to the fungus Armillaria mellea (Vahl.) Que- DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TKEES. 115 let, which is widely distributed throughout Xorth America. The fungus usually gains entrance through \v« •mid-, hut some authorities claim that it will SJJ?™" arrack uninjured roots. It causes a decay of the routs, thus cutting off the supply of water and food from the -nil and eventually causing the death of the tree. In tin- mots and surrounding soil will be found the so-called ••slim- strings" — hard black strands of the fungus which branch and interlace, draw nourishment from the decaying Fig. 43. Armillaria mellea. Parasitic on the roots of many trees. (Courtesy of New York Botanic Garden.) \v< .« »d, and finally give rise to the fruiting bodies. The fruit- ing bodies, a form of mushroom (Fig. 43) appear to grow from the soil, are honey colored, the upper surface viscid and s p. -eked with white; the gills of the lower surface white and giving off great quantities of spores; the stems are swollen at the base and have a distinct ring below the umbrella shaped top. Treatment. Xewly cleared land in which this disease is prevalent should not be set to trees of any kind. When the disease 116 SHADE TREES. becomes abundant there is no successful method of control. Diseased trees should be burned, but it is not safe to plant young trees in the same soil. GAS. Illuminating gas escaping from defective Gas injury. . ., ' . pipes impregnates the soil, poisons the roots and causes the death of trees. The remedy for this is evi- dent, but in replanting it is frequently necessary to remove the soil from a considerable area and refill with a fresh supply from outside sources. (See page 28.) 4. DISEASES DUE TO ENVIRONMENT. Plants respond readily to their surroundings, and (in a state of nature, undisturbed by man) the best growths will always be found where the surroundings are most favorable. The most important natural factors which influence the growth of plants are soil, water and temperature. The soil may be unfavorable to plant growth owing to the lack, or improper proportions, of food substances ; or it may be too shallow or may not hold the proper amount of water. The water content of the soil is an important factor, varying with the requirements of the various species of plants. The amount of water that may be unfavorable for a tree will fre- quently be favorable for the organisms of disease. Tem- perature is also an important factor, both as causing direct injuries which may retard the growth of trees or cause their death, and by making it possible for fungi and other destruc- tive organisms to gain entrance. Smolce, gases, etc., are also the causes of many injuries and heavy losses. When trees stand close together, the ef- fects of smoke and free gases are first noticed in the tops, but in single trees the injuries may be distributed through- out the crown. As in cases of poisoning by illuminating gas (page 29), the first symptoms are discoloration of the young DISEASES OF SHADE. AND FOREST TKEES. 117 haves followed by slow dying, reduction in the rate of uT«iwth of the twigs and, in fact, of the tree generally. I. • utually the twigs die and finally the branches and trunks. The different kinds of trees show varying degrees of re- sistance and, therefore, trees in the vicinity of furnaces, smelter?, mills, etc., will not show an equal degree of injury from the central point ; some species of trees at considerable distances from the course of smoke and gas may be killed while other species very near may continue to live for many years. ''The order of susceptibility, beginning with the trees most easily killed, is as follows : * "White pine (Pinus strobus L.), Hemlock (Tsuga sp.), Scrub pine (Pinus virginiana Mill.), Pitch pine (Pinus rui'ida Mill.), Chestnut oak (Quercus prinus L.), Hickory i Hlcoria sp.), Black-jack (Quercus marilandica Muench.), White oak (Quercus alba L.), Post oak (Quercus minor i Marsh.') Sargent), Chestnut (Castanea dentata (Marsh.) Bnrkh. i. Spanish oak (Quercus digitata (Marsh.) Sud- worth). Scarlet oak (Quercus coccinea Muench.), Tulip pop- lar (Liriodendron tulipifera L.), Maple (Acer sp.), Black gum ( Xyssa syh'atica Marsh.)." Treatment. The injuries are greatest to leeward of the prevailing winds. They can be overcome in a great measure by the eon-traction of tall smokestacks which will carry the in- jurious gases into the higher strata of air. Devices for con- densing the gases, such as passing through water, have been used with some degree of success. There is no satisfactory treatment so long as trees are exposed to the abnormal en- virMnments. The causes must be removed. Dust from cement and other establishments has also proved r«i be the cause of some injuries. When cement dust settles *Taken from Bulletin No. 149, Bureau of Plant Industry, TL S. Department of Agriculture. Diseases of Deciduous Forest Trees. Herman Von Shrenk and Parley Spaulding. 118 SHADE TREES. on the foliage, and is wet by the rains it "sets"' and shuts out the light to some extent and reduces the working effici- ency of the plant. 5. OTHER DISEASES. seedbed "Damping off" is one of the most destruc- disease. ^ve diseases of very young plants, especially coniferous trees. It is due to fungi which are semi-sapro- phytic in habit, living in wet, decaying organic matter, especially in manure. These organisms become especially active under the warm, moist conditions which are favorable for the germination of the seeds and for the growth of the young plants. The fungi attack these seedlings at the sur- face of the ground causing them to wilt, fall over and die. The fungi continue to live on the dead plants and spread to the living seedlings. The disease is especially prevalent in seed beds and in nature where the plants are growing in crowded conditions. These diseases are responsible in a great measure for the difficulties in growing coniferous seed- lings and other nursery stock in America, Treatment. The "damping off'' fungi can be controlled to some extent in various ways. One of the most common practices is that of burning a large quantity of vegetable material on the surface of the bed before planting. Formalin disfectioii of the soil is also used extensively. By this method the beds are thoroughly prepared and then drenched with a formalin solution (1 part commercial formalin to 150 to 200 parts water) using three or four quarts to each square foot of bed surface. The beds should then be covered with burlap for 24 hours and after that thoroughly aired for about a week. In some cases it may be necessary to make two or three ap- plications, dependent on the character of the soil. This DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOREST TREES. 119 treatment must be used with care, as it will sometimes re- el iu-c the germinating power of the seeds. Insects are the cause of many diseases, among the most interesting of which are the cecidia or galls. These ab- normal growths occur on roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits and are due to insect injuries, in most cases the insects making their homes for a considerable part of their lives within the iralls. Some of them fire very in- Galla not iurious, but most of those occurring on trees often harmful. are considered ol little importance. However, individual plants are frequently so seriously affected as to mar their beauty and no doubt reduce their vitality. The great regularity of shape, color and markings of these galls will always make them objects of great interest to both scientist and layman, and future studies will probably prove them to be the cause of greater injuries than we now at- tribute to them. Fortunately, owing to the migratory char- acter of the insects, most species of insect galls do not occur two or more years in succession on the same trees. Some few species can be sprayed to advantage with insecticides, but in most cases where the pests become troublesome it will be found necessary to prune and destroy the diseased parts before the insects emerge. Abnormal structures are also formed as a result of fungus, bacterial and mechanical injuries. Animal injuries of various kinds are frequently the open- ings by which fungi and other organisms of disease gain entrance to the host plants. Insects, birds, squirrels and other animals are also the distributers of many diseases bv making wounds and carrving the promote •• ,, disease. organisms from place to place. Storms also aid in the work of destruction by breaking branches and thus causing wounds which immediately become sources of infec- tion. 120 SHADE TKEES. METHODS OF CONTROL. It will be readily seen that the treatment of trees must be primarily protective, rather than curative. It is impos- sible to use orchard methods in the forests and Prevention . . better than frequently impractical to use such methods on shade and ornamental trees. Good forestry practice in the forest and proper care of shade and orna- mental trees will greatly reduce the ravages of many of these diseases. The heart and sap rots usually (probably always) origi- nate with wounds through which the organisms gain en- trance. Of course not all wounds give rise to diseases any more than all wounds of human beings and lower animals give rise to blood poisoning, but all wounds Wounds . c . induce must be looked upon as points where infections are likely to occur and therefore as sources of danger. Frequent inspection of shade and ornamental trees, the cutting out of broken branches, proper pruning, and the care of all wounds are important factors in preserving the beauty and contributing to longevity. (See page 26.) De- caying wood forms a most excellent garden for many fungi which are both saprophytic and parasitic in habit. It should always be removed and burned. Spraying may be practiced to some extent for foliage dis- eases on shade and ornamental trees, especially small ones. Among the most important of the spraying mixtures is lime- sulphur which is used extensively for scale insects. It is also a fungicide and will reduce the organisms that winter on the stems and trunk. spraying Bordeaux mixture is the old and reliable mixtures. fungicide and can be used on most trees for foliage diseases. However, it is unsafe for some trees and has the disadvantage of discoloring the parts to which it is applied. Where the discolorations are undesirable, the am- moniacal-copper-carbonate solution can frequently be used to DISEASES OF SHADE AXD FOREST TREES. 121 advantage. Potassium sulphide solution is a very useful remedy where it is desirable to protect ornamentals against powdery mildews and other superficial fungi. FUNGICIDES. Bordeaux Mixture. Copper sulphate 2 to 5 pounds Quick lime 3 to 6 pounds Water 50 gallons This is one of the oldest and most reliable fungicides known. The lime is to prevent certain injuries which might otherwise arise from the use of copper sulphate and the amount should always be slightly in excess of the amount of the copper sulphate. The copper sulphate is dissolved in a small quantity of wrater by suspending the crystals in a bag at the surface. The lime is slacked in a small quantity of water. Each mixture is then diluted to 25 gallons and the two are poured together. The copper sulphate may be dis- solved, and the lime slacked, and the two kept as stock for dilution and use as needed but the mixture will not keep after being poured together. The strength of Bordeaux mix- ture varies with the character of the foliage of the plants to bo treated, since the foliage of many tender plants will be injured by it. Copper Sulphate. One pound of copper sulphate dissolved in 25 gallons of water makes an excellent winter spray but cannot be used on plants when in foliage. Lime-Sulphur. This mixture has come into general use as a winter spray and has largely superseded copper sulphate since it serves as Wh a fungicide and an insecticide. The commercial prod- 122 SHADE TREES. uct used in the proportion of 1 gallon to 10 gallons of water is very satisfactory, but cannot be used on foliage. For trees in leaf a mixture of 1 gallon in 30 gallons of water is as strong as is safe. This mixture can be made at home according to the formula given in our State and government publications, but most people find it more satisfactory to use the commercial product. Ammonia-coppcr-carbonate mixtu re. Copper carbonate 0 oz. Ammonia (26° Beaume) 3 pts. Water 50 gal. Dissolve the copper carbonate in the ammonia and dilute with water. This mixture has the advantage of not dis- coloring the foliage. It is rather unreliable and should be used with care and always tested on a single plant, or small part of a plant, before general application. Potassium sulphide. Potassium sulphide (liver of sulfur), % to 1% Ibs. Water 50 gal. This treatment is very successful on the surface-growing fungi, such as the mildews, but of no value 011 the more vigorous parasites. Sprayers. Spraying pumps and machines are easily obtained of any seed house. For information regarding forms and sizes see page 88. DISEASES OF SHADE AND FOKEST TREES. 123 A LIST OF PUBLICATIONS OX THE CARE OF SHADE TREES. Trees in Towns and Cities. Win Solotaroff. John Wiley <\c Sons, Xew York City. Trre Pruning. A. Descars. John Wilson & Son, Cam- bridge, Mass. Landscape Gardening as Applied to Home Decoration. Samuel T. Maynard. John Wiley & Sons, Xew York City. Care of Trees. B. E. Eernow. Henry Holt & Co., Xew York City. The Pruning Book. L. H. Bailey. The Macmillian Co., X<-w York City. Concerning Insects Alone. Economic Entomology. John B. Smith. J. B. Lippin- cott Co., Philadelphia. Manual for the Study of Insects. John Henry Comstock. C'.m.stock Pub. Co., Ithaca, X. Y. American Insects. Yernon L. Kellogg. Henry Holt & CM., Xew York City. Insects Affecting Park and Woodland Trees, 2 Vol. E. P. Felt. Xew York State Museum Memoir 8. X. Y. State Education Dept., Albany. Concerning Plant Diseases. Fungus Diseases of Plants. B. M. Duggar. Ginn & Co., Boston. T' .'I Book of the Diseases of Trees. Robert Hartig. Translated from the German by William Somerville and H. ^Marshall Ward, London, Eng. Diseases of Deciduous Forest Trees. H. von Schrenk and Pcrley Spaulding. Bulletin 149 Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 124 SHADE TKEES. Diseases of Economic Plants. F. L. Stevens and J. G. Hall. Heath & Co., Boston. Diseases of Ornamental Trees. Haven Metcalf. Year Book U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1907. Diseases of Shade and Ornamental Trees. B. T. Gallo- way and A. F. Woods. Year Book U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1896. The Control of the Chestnut Bark Disease. Haven Met- calf and J. F. Collins. Farmers' Bulletin 467 U. S. De- partment of Agriculture. Index. Black-faced figures indicate specific descriptions. PAGES. A. Abrasions 21,36,44 Abrasion moulding 36 Abused trees 11 Aid to tree owners 6,43 Ailanthus 9, 13, 56 Alder, diseases of 109 Ammonia-copper-carbonate mixture 120,122 Anthracnoses 97 Antiseptics 44. 45 ' Arborvitse 53, 55 diseases of Ill Arrangement of trees 15 | Arsenate of lead 68,72,87,89 ' Ash 9, 13, 14, 53-55, 57 diseases of ...99,109,111,112 | Aspen, diseases of 108 Bag-worm 69 Balsam 55 Banding trees 68, 69 Bark beetles 83 Bark may be cleaned 87 Basket worm, see bag-worm. Basswood 8, 13, 43, 57 diseases of 112 insects affecting 76 Beauty in trees 12 Beech 14,54,57 diseases of 108,114 Bibliography 123, 124 Bilsted, see red gum. Birch 53 diseases of 98,108,114 Birds, disease distributors.. 119 Black knots 106 Books about shade trees. . 123, 124 Bordeaux mixture. . 96, 97, 120, 121 Borers 82-85 Box elder .. .8,63 PAGES. Braces, tree 42, 49 Buckeye, see horse chestnut. Building, dangers of 27 Butchery, tree 40, 43 Buttonwood, see sycamore. C. Carbon bisulphide 74, 83 Care of trees 21, 43, 87, 120 Care of wounds 44 Catalpa 58 diseases of 96, 112 Cavities 42, 44, 47, 48 treatment of 45 Cedar apples 99 Cedar, red 55,56 diseases of 99, 107, 111 Chestnut 14, 59 diseases of 96 101, 102, 109, 114, 117 horse, see horse chestnut. Climate of New Jersey 7 Climbing spurs 35 Conifers, see evergreens. Construction and building.. 27 Control of diseases 120 Co-operation 26, 51, 52 Copper sulphate 97,98,121 Coral spots 105 Cotton batting bands 68, 69 Cottonwood, see poplar. Cottony maple scale 72 Crotches, split 42, 49 Crown 18, 20, 38 Curb lines 17,32-34,50,54 Cypress 53 D. Decay 13, 43, 44, 47, 48, 93 Defoliation 88 Disease, causes of 93 Diseases, tree 93-122 Doctoring, tree 42,43,47 125 126 INDEX. PAGES. Dogwood 53 diseases of 98 Drop worm, see bag-iconn. Drouth 15 Dust cement 117 E. Electric linemen 35 Electric wires 31-36 Elm 8, 13, 14, 38, 43, 54, 55, 59 diseases of 96, 112 insects affecting 67, 73, 79 Environment, diseases due to 116-118 Evergreens 13, 43, 53, 55 diseases of 118 insects affecting 86 F. Fall planting 15 Fall web worm 75 Fertilizer 25 Filling 42, 45, 47, 48 Fir 56 Fire, disease induced by.... 113 Foliage, diseases of 95-10>0 Food, tree 24, 25 Footing 11,17,20,23 Formalin 118 Frost, susceptibility of trees to 8 Fruiting bodies 94, 105 10<9, 110, 113, 115 Fungi 93-122 Fungicides 96-98, 120, 121 G. Galls 119 Gas 28-30,116,117 Ginkgo 8, 13,60 Grade, street, changes in... 50-52, 62 Gratings 23, 24 Grass underneath trees. .24, 53, 54 Growing space, see footing. Growth, rapidity of 8 Guards .. .5, 11, 19, 21, 23, 27, 28, 36 Guys 27 Gum, black 61 diseases of 107, 117 red or sweet 8,12-14,61 diseases of 114 H. Hackberry 13, 14, 56, 61 diseases of .. 106 PAGES. Hardiness of trees 8 Hawthorn 53 Heading in 40 Head room under trees 18 Heart rots 108-112, 120 Hemlock 53 diseases of 99, 117 Hickory 14 diseases of 108, 114, 117 insects affecting 83,84 Hole, the 18 Holly 56 Horse bites 21,36 Horse chestnut .8,12,13,61 diseases of 96, 105 I. Improvements, municipal anticipated 52 Injuries 21, 26-36, 93, 116, 119 Insects 67-91, 106, 119 Insecticides 68, 69, 72-76. 78 80, 81, 83-89 Insects attack weakened trees 82 K. Kerosene emulsion 73, 75, 78 L,. Larch 53 Large trees 53 Lawn mower 36, 54 Lawn trees 53,56 Lead arsenate, see arsenate of lead. Leaf burn 8 Leaf cast 99 Leaf curl 98, 107 Leaf spots 95. 96 Lice, plant 85, 86 Light, influence of upon trees 37 Lime 27 Lime-sulphur 78, 80, 97, 98, 121 Linden, see basswood. Location of trees 17 Locust 9, 13, 14, 56, 62 diseases of 109, 110 insects affecting 14, 83 M. Magnolia 53 Maple 9-12, 38, 43, 63 ash leaf, see box elder. Norway 8,13,14.56,63 red . . .8. 13. 56. 63 INDEX. 127 PAGES. .Maple — silver, or white 8,9,13 14, 49, 56, 63 sugar 54 diseases of 63,96,105 107-108, 112, 114, 117 insects affecting 72-74 76, 78, 82, 85, 86 Mildews 97, 98 Mistletoes 1O7 Mortar 27 Mountain ash 53 Mulberry 9 K. Neatness in trees 9 Nourishment 24, 25, 53 Nursery stock, diseased 102 O. Oak 54-56,64 bur 64 chestnut 56, 64 English 64 pin 8,13,14,38,54,56,64 red 8, 13, 56, 64 scarlet 13, 14, 56, 64 swamp white 64 white 8, 13, 64 diseases of 97, 98, 108 109, 111, 112, 114, 117 insects affecting 68, 69 74, 75, 111 Old trees, treatment of. . .40, 41, 49 Oyster shell bark louse 74 P. Parasites 93 Paris green 68, 69, 72, 76, 85 Pavements 8, 24 Pepper idge. see black yum. Pine 56 maritime 56 Jersey (scrub) diseases of 99, 117 pitch, diseases of 99, 117 Scotch, diseases of 99 white, diseases of 103, 117 white, insects affecting. . 87 Plane, see sycamore. Planting time 15 Planting, tree 19, 20 Police regulations 21, 36 Poplar 9, 13, 14, 56 diseases of 98, 99, 109, 114 insects affecting 78 PAGES. Potassium sulphide 98, 121, 122 Powdery mildews 97, 98, 106 Pruning 8, 18, 20, 37-44, 102 interior 37, 43 Prune, time to 43 Public service 26, 35, 52 R. Red bud 53 Red gum 12 Roots 17-20, 25-28, 38 diseases of 114-116 Root suckers 14 Rusts 99 S. Salt 28 San Jose scale 79 Sap lifter 39, 41 Saprophytes 93 Sap rots 112-114, 120 Scalecide 77, 80, 81 Scurfy scale 78 Seashore trees 55 Serviceberry 53 Shade endurance 54 I Shade, too much 9, 16 Shade Tree Commissions. . .26, 36 43, 51, 52 Shade Tree Federation 53 Sidewalks 17,50 Silverbell 53 Size of street trees 17 Smoke 116 Soil 7, 14, 19, 116 Sourwood 53 Spacing 5, 16, 17 Sparrows, English 74 Splits, in trees 42, 49 Sporophores 94, 113 Spraying . . .68, 69, 72, 73, 75-77, 78 80, 81, 86-88, 96, 97-99, 10*6, 120 See also insecticides and fungicides. cost of 91 machines .88-90,122 Spring planting 15 Spruce 54-56 Spurs, climbing 35 Stakes, tree 19-21 Starvation, signs of 25 Starving trees 24 Stems, diseases of 100,114 Sticky bands 68, 69 128 INDEX. PAGES. Street trees, requirements of 7 Sycamore 8,13,14,55,56,64 diseases of 97 T. Tar spots 96 Temperature, a factor in disease lib Topping 40 Treatment of cavities 45 Tree fakirs 43, 10>2 Trees, cultivation of 8 Trees not recommended. ... 9, 13 Trees, what to plant. .8, 13, 14, 56 Tulip poplar 8, 13, 38, 65 diseases of 114, 117 insects affecting 80 Tupelo, see black gum. U. Uniformity in trees V. Value of trees 12 26 PAGES. W. Walnut 14 diseases of 96, 108, 109 Water 24, 116 Well, tree 50, 51 Whale oil soap 73,75 78, 80, 81, 85-87 White marked tussock moth 68 White pine blister rust. .. 103-105 White pine weevil 87 Willow 14 diseases of 98, 99 108, 109, 112, 114 Wind breaks 53, 55 Wiring rules 35, 36 Wires, electric 31-36 Witches' broom 61, 106 Wood leopard moth 73 Wounds . ..42,44,47 49,50,120 Y. Yellow-wood 53 Bulletin 160. January, 1899. Cornell University Agricultural Experiment Station, ITHACA, N. Y. HORTICULTURAL DIVISION. HINTS ON RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. By L. H. BAILEY. PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY, ITHACA, X. Y. 1899. ORGANIZATION. BOARD OF CONTROL : THE TRUSTEES OF THE UNIVERSITY. THE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE AND STATION COUNCIL. JACOB GOULD SCHURMAN, President of the University. FRANKLIN C. CORNELL, Trustee of the University. ISAAC P. ROBERTS, Director of the College and Experiment Station. EMMONS L. WILLIAMS, Treasurer of the University. LIBERTY H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture. JOHN H. COMSTOCK, Professor of Entomology. STATION AND UNIVERSITY EXTENSION STAFF. I. P. ROBERTS, Agriculture. G. C. CALDWELL, Chemistry. JAMES LAW, Veterinary Science. J. H. COMSTOCK, Entomology. L. H. BAILEY, Horticulture. H. H. WING, Dairy Husbandry. G. F. ATKINSON, Botany. M. V. SLINGERLAND, Entomology. G. W. CAVANAUGH, Chemistry. L. A. CLINTON, Agriculture. B. M. DUGGAR, Botany. J. W. SPENCER, Extension Work. J. L. STONE, Sugar Beet Investigation. MISS M. F. ROGERS, Nature-Study. A. L. KNISELY, Chemistry. C. E. HUNN, Horticulture. W. W. HALL, Dairy Husbandry. W. E. GRIFFITH, Dairy Husbandry. A. R. WARD, Dairy Bacteriology. L. ANDERSON, Dairy Husbandry. F. A. STEVENS, Demonstrator." OFFICERS OF THE STATION. I. P. ROBERTS, Director. E. L. WILLIAMS, Treasurer. EDWARD A. BUTLER, Clerk. CORNELL UNIVERSITY, January 2, 1899. HONORABLE COMMISSIONER OF AGRICULTURE. ALBANY. Sir: In the effort to extend the teaching of nature and to popularize farming subjects, we have found the nature-study leaflets to be invaluable. These leaflets are now so well estab- lished in the estimation of New York teachers that we are obliged to print them in editions of 25,000. These afford subject-matter for direct teaching. But the surroundings of the child should also be such as to interest him in rural subjects. The home and the school premises should supplement the explicit work of the teacher. We have endeavored to provide suggestions for the improve- ment of home surroundings in a number of bulletins ; and we hope that more will follow. For many years, Professor Bailey has been studying the problem of the improvement of rural school grounds, but it is only now that he has felt that the time is ripe for a distinct movement in this direction. This bul- letin is the first move. It strikes at one of the greatest evils connected with the education of the farmer's children. We hope to follow up the movement, and eventually to give suggestions for the interior of the schoolhouse. These recommendations are the result of long stud}' of trees and shrubs as adapted to New York State, and of the principles of landscape gardening. The report is submitted for publication as a bulletin under Chapter 67 of the Laws of 1898. I. P. ROBERTS, Director. 21. — Where children are taught. An actual example, in one of the most prosperous fruit-groiving sections of New York. 22. — ^4 suggestion in planting. HINTS ON RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. One's training for the work of life is begun in the home and fostered in the school. This training is the result of a direct and conscious effort on the part of the parent and teacher, combined with the indirect result of the surroundings in which the child is placed. The surroundings are more potent than we think ; and they are usually neglected. It is probable that the antipathy to 23. — The beginning and the end, — school house and graveyard . eastern New York. In farm life is formed before the child is able to reason on the subject. An attractive play-ground will do more than a profit- able wheat crop to keep the child on the farm. a. THE FACT. Bare, harsh, cheerless, immodest, — these are the facts about the average rural school ground. Observe Fig. 21. Children cannot be forced to like the school. They like it only 276 BULLETIN 160. when it is worth liking. And when they like it, they learn. The fanciest school apparatus will not atone for a charmless school ground. A child should not be blamed for playing truant if he is sent to school in a graveyard. Observe Fig. 23. It would seem that land is very precious. Very little of it can be afforded for a school ground. A quarter of an acre of good land will raise four bushels of wheat, and this wheat may be worth three or four dollars a year. We cannot afford to de- 24.— A suggestion for a simple little schoolhouse. vote such valuable property to children. We can find a bit of swamp, or a sand hill, or a treeless waste. The first district school I taught was on a heartless hillside. The premises had two or three disconsolate oaks, and an old barrel was stuck in the top of one of them. The second school was on an island in a swamp. The mosquitoes loved it. The school building is generally little more than a large box. It has not even the charm of proper proportions. A different shape, with the same cost, might have made an attractive building. Even a little attention to design might make a great HINTS ON RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. 277 difference in the looks of a schoolhouse ; and the mere looks of a schoolhouse has a wonderful influence on the child. The railroad corporation likes to build good-looking station-houses, although they have no greater capacity than homely ones. I asked an architect for a simple plan of a cheap school house. He gave me Fig. 24. Plans for the improvement of shoolhouses may be obtained of the 'Superintendent of Public Instruction, Albany. The following sentences are extracted from the ' ' Report of the Committee of Twelve on Rural Schools," of the National Educational Association (1897) : ' The rural schoolhouse, generall}r speaking, in its character and surroundings is depressing and degrading. There is nothing about it calculated to cultivate a taste for the beautiful in art or nature." ' ' If children are daily surrounded by those influences that elevate them, that make them clean and well-ordered, that make them love flowers, and pictures, and proper decorations, they at last reach that degree of culture where nothing else will please them. When they grow up and have homes of their own, they must have them clean, neat, bright with pictures, and fringed with shade trees and flowers, for they have been brought up to be happy in no other environment." ' The rural schoolhouse should be built in accordance with the laws of sanitation and modern civilization. It never will be until the State, speaking through the Supervisor, compels it as a prerequisite for receiving a share of the public funds." b. HOW TO BEGIN A REFORM. We will assume that there is one person in each rural school district who desires to renovate and improve the school premises. There may be two. If this person is the school commissioner or the teacher, so much the better. Let this person call a meeting of the patrons at the school- house. L/ay before the people the necessity of improving the premises. Quote the opinions of intelligent persons respecting the degrading influence of wretched surroundings ; or even read extracts from this bulletin. The cooperation of the most 278 BULLETIN 160 influential men of the district should be secured before the meeting is called. Propose a "bee" for improving the school grounds. John Smith will agree to repair the fence (or take it away, if it is not needed). Jones will plow and harrow the ground, if plowing is necessary. Brown will sow the grass seed. Black and Green and White will go about the neighborhood with their teams for trees and bushes. Some -of these may be got in the edges of the woods, but many of the bushes can be picked up in front yards. Others will donate their labor towards grading, planting, and cleaning up the place. The whole thing can be done in one day. Perhaps Arbor Day can be chosen. C. THE PLAN OF THE PLACE. This is the most important part of the entire undertaking, — the right kind of a plan for the improvement of the grounds. The person who calls the meeting should have a definite plan in mind ; and this plan may be discussed and adopted. The remainder of this bulletin is devoted to plans for school grounds and means of working them out. If any person is interested in this subject, he should have our Bulletin 121, on the " Planting of Shrubbery." Begin with the fundamentals, not with the details. — If an artist is to make a portrait, he first draws a few bold strokes, representing the general outline. He ( ' blocks out ' ' the picture. With the general plan well in mind, he gradually works in the incidentals and the details, — the nose, eyes, beard. Most persons reverse this natural order when they plant their grounds. They first ask about the kinds of roses, the soil for snowballs, how far apart hollyhocks shall be planted. It is as if the artist first asked about the color of the eyes and the fashion of the neck-tie; or as if the architect first chose the color of paint and then planned his building. The result of this type of planting is that there is no plan, and the yard means nothing when it is done. Begin with the plan, not with the plants. The place should mean something. — The home ground should be home-like, retired and cosy. The school ground should be set off from the bare fields and should be open enough HINTS ox RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. 279 to allow of play-grounds. It should be hollow, — well planted on the sides, open in the interior. The side next the highway should contain little planting. The place should be a picture, not a mere collection of trees and bushes. Fig. 25 shows what I mean. As seen in the picture (Fig. 25), this style of planting seems to be too elaborate and expensive for any ordinary place. But if the reader will bear with me, he shall learn otherwise. 25. — A picture, of which a schoolhouse is the central figure . Keep the center of the place open, — Do not scatter the trees over the place. They will be in the way. The boys will break them down. Moreover, they do not look well when scattered over the whole area. When an artist makes a picture with many people in it, he does not place the persons one by one all over his canvas. He masses them. Thereby he secures a stronger effect. He focusses attention, rather than distributes it. The diagrams (Figs. 26, 27), taken from Bulletin 121, make this conception plain. The same trees and shrubs can be used to make either a nursery or a picture. But it is more difficult to make the nursery, and to keep it in order, because the trees grow one at a place in the sod, and they are exposed to acci- dents. 280 BULLETIN 160. 26. — The common or nursery type of planting. Go to the blackboard. With four lines, represent the borders of the school grounds, as in Fig. 28. Indicate the schoolhouse and the out- buildings. Ex- isting trees may be located by small circles. Now you have the facts, or the fixed points. Now put in the walks. The first fixed point is the front door. The other fixed point is the place or places at which the children enter the grounds. Join these points by the most direct and simplest curves possible. That is all there is of it. In many, or perhaps most places, the house is so near the highway that only a straight walk is possible or advisable. Next comes the planting. Let it be irregular and natural, and rep- resent it by a wavy line, as in Fig. 28. First of all, cover up the out-houses. Then plant heav- ily on the side next the swamp or a disagreeable barnyard, or in the direction of the prevailing wind. Leave openings in your plan wherever there are views to be had of fine old trees, attractive farm homes, a brook, or 27- — The proper or pictorial type of planting. HINTS ON RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. 281 a beautiful hill or field. Throw a handful of shrubs into the corners by the steps, and about the bare corners of the building. You now have a plan to work to. It has been the work of five minutes at the blackboard. Sometimes the problem is not so simple as all this. There may be three entrances to the grounds and a highway on two sides. Fig. 29 is a plan made for such a place in western New York. It was thought to be necessary to separate the play-grounds of .— T/ie blackboard plan. the boys and girls. This was done by a wide hedge-row of bushes running back from the schoolhouse. An interesting case as shown in Figs. 21 and 22. It is indecent j j to put the two out- buildings together. But it was assumed that it would not be allowable to move them. The place is bald and cheerless . The outlay of a day's work, and no money, might cause it to look like Fig. 22 inside of three or four years. Perhaps some per- sons object to so much 29.— Suggestions for the planting of a school- shrubbery. They look yard upon four corners. From "Lessons ., , , with Plants^ uP°n Jt as mere brush' Very well : then use trees alone. But do not scatter them hit and miss over the place. Throw them in at the side, as in Fig. 30. Give room for the children to play ; and make the place a picture at the same time. Three or four trees may be planted near the building to shade it, but the heaviest planting should be on the sides. 282 BULLETIN 160. The mere planting of trees and shrubs is the smaller part of the problem.— Arbor day has emphasized the mere planting of trees. Fortunately, many of the trees do not live. They are too often put in the wrong places. If the love of trees could be combined with some purpose in the plant- ing, the results would be much better. Fig. 3 1 suggests Arbor Day planting ; and this is certainly much better than nothing. These four trees will be useful in their present positions, but the place will still remain bare. The great thing — the border planting- has been omitted, and the incidental thing has been done. Observe how the long foliage-mass adds charm to Fig. 32. A row is better than mere scattered trees. But even this planting is not ideal. Heavy planting should have been made along the fence beyond the schoolhouse. There are too many trees between the border row and the house, although this is not a serious fault. A few bushes and vines would relieve the barrenness of the house ; so would one or two trees close against the house on the side next the road. But this place is so much more attrac- tive than most rural school premises that one ought not to find fault with it. 30. — A border planting of trees. d. HOW TO MAKE THE IMPROVEMENTS. Every effort should be exerted to do the work well in the begin- ning. If all preparations are thoroughly considered, and the details carried out with care, the premises should become more attractive year by year with almost no annual outlay of labor. The school grounds should be able to take care of themselves when once the place is set in order. Of course, better results HINTS ON RURAL SCHOOL GROUNDS. 283 are to be expected when much labor is put on the grounds each year, but it is useless to advise such expenditure for the rural 31. — 7rY CUP OAK (Quercus mmrocarpa) and swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor) are sometimes planted on country roadsides. The latter, which makes slow growth, is adapted to wet places. BASS WOOD OR AMERICAN- LINDEN* (Tilia amcricana) is a native of New England, but is seldom planted on streets, although it is adapted to certain locations. It is a beautiful tree — with bright green foliage, graceful and symmetrical when young, but when planted too closely it loses its lower limbs and is inclined to early deterioration. EUROPEAN LINDEN (Tilia sp.). — The linden has been much planted as a shade tree, and is a good tree when young and vigorous. The tree is not as a rule long lived, and it is often subject to sun scald and frost cracks from which it deteriorates rapidly. It is also likely to be affected with sooty mold, which follows the honeydew secretions of aphids. This materially affects the appearance of the tree. There are several species 132 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. Fiu. 6. — A venue of lindens. of linden under cultivation which possess distinctive characteristics, and these have been sadly confused by nurserymen. The two species most commonly planted are T. vulgaris and T. platyphyllos. According to H. J. Koehler,1 T. milgaris is one of the best trees to plant, while T. platyphyllos is one of the worst. Excellent types of lindens may be seen in the Arnold Arboretum, some of which will perhaps eventu- ually prove superior to either of the above species. HORSE-CHESTNUT ((Esculus hyp- pocastanum). — The horse-chest- nut, like the linden, was introduced from Europe, and has been much planted on streets. It grows rapidly, but it is not, as a rule, a long-lived tree. It is affected by a leaf -spot fungus (Phyllosticta) , sometimes losing much of its foliage on this account, and often many of the twigs are winterkilled and affected with Nectria. It is also susceptible to sun scald and frost crack, and the amount of litter produced by the fruit is somewhat objectionable. The red-flowering horse-chestnut is occasionally planted and is preferred by many. SYCAMORE (Platanus occidentalis). — Fine individual specimens of our native sycamore may often be seen on lawns and roadsides in New Eng- land, but it has been used in the past to a limited extent for avenue effects. The sycamore has a wide range, being confined in the north to river valleys. It naturally prefers a rich soil, and when transplanted under good conditions it attains a large size. The sycamore will endure any amount of pruning, and can be adapted to any street, even the busiest thoroughfares. Much more use is made of the sycamore than formerly, especially in cities, and the oriental species (P. orientalis) is also much employed. The sycamore is severely affected with a leaf-spot fungus (Gloeosporium} which often causes serious defoliation. The younger twigs sometimes winterkill badly, but the tree will stand a great deal of hard usage and mutilation. AILANTHUS (Ailanthus glandulosa). — The Ailanthus may be termed a "scavenger tree," as it will grow anywhere and will endure more trying conditions than any other tree. It is frequently found growing along railroad embankments, on dumping grounds, — in fact, no conditions seem too severe for it. It is used to some extent as a street tree, and excellent individual specimens may be seen here and there. Where quick effects are desired it is worthy of consideration. The Ailanthus, which is a native Landscape Architecture, July, 1915. SHADE TREES. 133 of China, is often termed the "tree of heaven," concerning which Dr. Asa Gray has well remarked that its blossoms are "redolent of anything hut airs from heaven." To obviate the disagreeable odors arising from this species only the pistillate trees should be used for planting, the dis- agreeable odor being given off by the male or staminate flowers, which are often borne on separate trees. The Ailanthus apparently tolerates obnoxious atmospheric gases better than most other trees. TULIP TREE (Liriodendron tulipifcra). — This is an excellent tree for roadsides, although it is not very much planted. It is probably better Fn;. 7. — Avenue of pin oaks transplanted seven years in 40 foot avenue. suited to lawns and country streets than to the hard usage it might receive on city streets. The tulip is indigenous to different parts of New England. It is a difficult tree to transplant successfully, and this may account for its not having been more extensively employed. This species attains a large size, developing a large symmetrical crown with -handsome foliage. It requires good, well-drained soil, and is best adapted to wide avenues provided with generous tree belts. The leaves sometimes become badly spotted from attacks of insects and fungi, but the loss in transplanting and its lack of adaptability to certain situations are the chief objections to its use as a street tree, at least in the north. WHITE ASH (Fraxinus americana). — This ash is commonly seen on streets. It was formerly planted more extensively than at present. Our measurements of a number of white ash trees which had grown in good 134 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. .soil and which were twenty-two years old showed an average diameter of 16 inches, while others grown in dry, gravelly soil attained an average diameter of only 12 inches during the same time. The white ash develops a widespreading top, and is a fairly desirable shade tree, although in too dry locations it may become affected by borers and scale insects. It has suffered much in recent years from drought, winterkilling and in some locations from a rust (Mcidium fraxini). Other species of ashes, like the black ash, are occasionally planted accidentally for the white ash. CUCUMBER TREE OR MAGNOLIA (Magnolia acuminata) has been highly recommended by some authorities for roadside planting. It has been employed extensively as an ornamental tree, but no attempt so far as we know has been made to utilize it as a street tree in the north. SWEET GUM (Liquidambar styraciflua) is a native farther south, Mas- sachusetts appearing to be a little too far north for its best development. At any rate we have observed no satisfactory growth of this species in this section. It is subject to winterkilling and frost cracks in the north. GINKGO (Ginkgo biloba), a Japanese species, is occasionally seen on lawns, and forms a beautiful avenue on the agricultural grounds at Wash- ington, D. C. Well-developed individual specimens of Ginkgo may be observed here and there in New England, and this tree has been used to some extent for street planting. It is adapted to a wide variety of soils, and is remarkably free from diseases. It develops a narrow cylindrical or conical crown, which adapts itself to narrow streets. This species is undoubtedly better adapted to planting farther south than in New England; nevertheless, it possesses many qualifications as a desirable street tree, and should be utilized for this purpose in suitable locations. CAROLINA POPLAR (Populus deltoides}, which is now quite extensively planted, is one of the most rapidly growing species, and is a valuable tree for producing quick effects. The Carolina poplar is especially useful to fill in between trees of slow growth but of more desirable types. Good avenues of this species may be seen about Boston in the metropolitan park system, where the trees have been cut back to form a compact head. This tree, however, is subject to various troubles, and is short lived. Two other native species of poplar, i.e., P. grandidentata and P. tremuloides, an> common, but have no value for planting. BLACK OR ITALIAN POPLAR (Populus nigra). — This species has been planted somewhat as a lawn and avenue tree. It grows even more rapidly than the Carolina poplar, and possesses similar characteristics. It is affected by a rust (Melampsora populind) which sometimes causes much defoliation. LOMBARDY POPLAR (P. nigra var. italica) has been planted sparingly for more than a century in New England, and has come into wider use of late. It is used somewhat on narrow avenues, although on account of its ascending and close-branching habit of growth it does not furnish much shade, and is, moreover, too stiff and conventional in appearance for most plncos. The white or silver-leaved poplar (P. alba] and the SHADE TREES. 135 balm of Gilead (P. candicans) have been planted occasionally on streets and near dwellings for many years. The former, which is characterized by its silvery leaves, grows to a large, widespreading tree. BLACK LOCUST (Robinia pseudacacia) . — • The black locust is one of out- most rapidly growing trees, and while it is spontaneous here it is native farther south than New England. It adapts itself to severe conditions, and withstands obnoxious atmospheric gases better than any other tree, but it is so attacked by borers at times as to render its use as a street tree of little account. It is a valuable honey tree, and may be employed as a hedgerow or screen near dwellings, and near smelters and large man- ufacturing plants where noxious gases prevail. HONEY LOCUST (Gleditschia triacanthos) is a tree reaching large dimen- sions and provided with stout thorns. It is sometimes used in planting". CHESTXUT (Castama dent-ata) frequently grows profusely along, road- sides and at times on lawns. It is not adapted to street planting on account of the litter accompanying fruiting, and its rapid destruction, from the blight at present renders this species useless for any purpose; - HACKBERRY (Celtis occidentalis) , which is closely related to pur elm. is found sparingly in some of our river valleys, and occasionally jnet with on streets side by side with the elm. During recent years some have advised planting this tree instead of the elm, as it is said, to be less: sus- ceptible to insects, particularly the elm-leaf beetle. It is a much inferior, tree, however, to the elm. HARDY CATALPA (Catalpa speciosa) is more at home in the west, al- though used here as an ornamental tree. With us it does not sustain its western reputation for growth, and according to our observations it has little or no value as a street tree in most northern sections. , Some of the willows are employed effectively for planting near marshes and low, swampy grounds. They afford protection to roadsides and are valuable as screens to unsightly places. The laurel-leaved or bay willow. (Sdix pentandra), which attains a height of 20 or 25 feet, is used on country roadsides and sometimes on lawns. It has dark green, glossy foliage. It is adapted to hedges and thrives well near the seashore. The weeping willow (Salix babylonica) and a few other forms are planted for ornamentation and shade-producing effects. Fine individual specimens of the black walnut (Juglans nigra), a tree sparingly native in New England, may be seen on lawns, but according to our observations on the results of planting this species on roadsides it appears to be a failure as a shade tree. Box elder (Xegundo aceroides) is occasionally grown near dwellings, but is not a satisfactory street tree under New England conditions. The various conifers may be used under suitable conditions, such as on country roadsides, and some use is made of them for this purpose. The white pine and Norway spruce are sometimes planted along road- sides, and are especially valuable as wind breaks. The European larch, Scotch and Austrian pines, as well as our superior red pine, may be em- 136 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. ployed advantageously for the same purpose. The shade produced by roadside planting is beneficial to a roadbed, as it prevents the rapid evaporation of water from the surface, and has a similar effect in this respect to some chemical road dressings in controlling dust. Moreover, a roadbed under such conditions retains its surface better than one con- stantly exposed to the sun, and there is less trouble from drifting snow. Since new plant material is being constantly introduced into the United States from foreign countries there is a likelihood of some new and desir- able species of shade trees becoming available in the future. The large and unrivaled collection of trees to be seen in the Arnold Arbo- retum, Jamaica Plain, Mass., furnishes good ex- amples for consideration. According to the most experienced planters the trees best suited for street purposes in New England are as follows: elm, rock, white, red and Norway maples, red, scarlet and pin oaks, basswood, tulip tree, Ginkgo, cucumber tree, hackberry, English elm, horse-chestnut, syca- more and white ash. For wide avenues large species such as the elm, rock and white maples, tulip tree, sycamore, etc., are recommended; and for narrow streets the pin oak, Norway maple, sweet gum, catalpa, Ginkgo and horse-chestnut. For severe conditions the English elm, horse-chestnut, linden and Ailanthus are considered the most desirable species. No fixed rule, however, can be laid down as regards the use of the different species of trees for wide, medium or narrow streets, as different effects in planting are often sought. Indeed, one of the most serious defects in planting of all kinds is the lack of originality. Imitation in methods, the constant use of certain species and varieties, and the extreme conventional effects often produced be- come wearisome, while the marked diversity of Nature's planting, always resourceful in producing harmonious effects, never becomes tiresome. In general, however, the large type of shade tree, like the elm, maple and others, should be used on wide streets, and those having a more pyram- Fie. 8. — Street with ideal tree belt. (See Fig. 13.) SHADE TREES. 137 idal type of crown are better suited for narrow avenues. In considering the problem of the selection of shade trees it should be borne in mind that there exists much variation in their habit of growth due to the con- ditions under which they are grown, and what may do well in one loca- tion will be more or less of a failure in another. There exists a marked variation in the growth of trees, even of the same species, in a restricted territory, and one can find much variation in their mode of development, such as habit of branching, size and color of leaves, height to which they grow, and age to which they attain, — in short, their general configura- tion. The elm grows quite differently in the north than in the south, and even in New England many specific types may be met which are characteristic of special localities. Hence, in order to secure the best type of elm trees for planting it would be well worth while to obtain them from localities which develop the best branching habits, such, for example, as the Berkshire region in Massachusetts. There are some species that are indigenous to the south which grow larger and do better in their native environment than in the north. Such trees as the magnolia, catalpa, Kentucky coffee tree, box elder, persimmon and mock orange are much better adapted to the south than the north, and consequently are of much more value as ornamental trees in that section. WHAT SHALL WE PLANT? Perhaps the most perplexing question relating to shade trees, at least during the last decade, is ''What shall we plant?" There has probably never been a period within the memory of living man during which such severe conditions for _^_______________ vegetation have pre- vailed, especially in the eastern States, as in the past few years. Meteorological rec- ords for many years back would undoubt- edly fail to show similar conditions, and even if they did they would be of little value, owing to the fact that there :ire important factors , , , , , , FIG. 9. — Showing deterioration of elme, largely due to the other than those re- leopard moth. corded by meteoro- logical observations which greatly affect vegetation and its mode of development. The growth of trees themselves, as well as local variations in a restricted environment, constitute a record of general meteorological phenomena. Since trees live a century or more, these data are valuable. 138 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. Considering the amount of deterioration in trees during recent year? many tree wardens and city foresters have been in a quandary as to what species to plant. But there is reason to believe that these severe condi- tions are past, and it may be a century before they occur again. One of our most valuable and beautiful species, i.e., the elm, has been practically abandoned as a shade tree in some places owing to its rapid and general deterioration. There are many other species that have been affected in a similar manner to the elm, although perhaps not so seriously. Notwith- standing the fact that some trees have suffered particularly from various causes, we believe that these should still be utilized for planting, their esthetic and other qualifications being such that they cannot be dis- pensed with. Moreover, affection by insects and fungous diseases must not always be considered too seriously in judging the value of a species, since control of many of them is possible with the use of modern methods. It should be borne in mind that many of the pests are secondary or are subservient to other causes; The European cut-leaf birch, which has been dying off in wholesale fashion of late, is always associated with borers, which are considered a specific cause of the dying of this tree. Quite the reverse is true, howr ever, as the borers are secondary to drought injury. In fact, every serious drought period affects the cut-leaf birch in this manner; the roots become dried out and the tree falls a prey to borers. Borers in trees may not always occur secondarily to some other cause, but it is extremely rare to find healthy trees affected with borers. As soon as a tree becomes slightly abnormal from any cause, infection follows. Even the slightest poisoning from gas or injury to the roots by drought or winterkilling is sufficient cause for weakening the trees, and borers and other insects follow as a secondary cause. There is no reason, however, why the European cut- leaf birch or other trees should fall a prey to borers if properly planted in a suitable soil and well supplied with water during drought periods, prefer- ably by subirrigation methods. The elm has suffered from elm-leaf beetle to some extent, although rarely is one found dying from this cause. Many elms have been prac- tically ruined by the leopard moth. However, it can be stated as a general principle that weak trees, or those that are under more or less abnormal conditions, are more likely to be affected by insects and fungi than strong, healthy, vigorous ones. In our opinion this holds true for the elm-leaf beetle infestation, and some of our most careful observers regard the leopard moth as secondary to other causes. The so-called "chestnut blight" is held by some competent pathologists to be secondary to somo other cause or deteriorating factors common to the chestnut. In sup- port of this idea it is known that numerous chestnut trees have been dying the last few years, from New England to Tennessee, which are not and never have been affected with the blight fungus. The most important lesson to be learned from the behavior of shade trees during the past years of trying experience is that we must give more SHADE TREES. 139 attention to the specific requirements of the different species of shade trees, particularly as regards soil conditions. Species which cannot tol- erate drought or the slightest soil desiccation should never be planted in sandy or gravelly soils possessing little water-retaining capacity; hence care should be taken in dry situations in eliminating those species which naturally grow in wet places. Neither should species that are adapted to dry soil be planted in wet places. The more extensive use of loam or soil containing a considerable amount of organic matter is needed in tree planting. In conclusion it may be stated that the problems associated with tree planting during the last decade do not constitute a reliable criterion of the specific value of any species, since the same combination of conditions is not likely to occur in a century. We believe, therefore, that any one is justified in planting the much condemned elm, at least in country towns, where atmospheric conditions are much more favorable than" in cities, and where the leopard moth is not so destructive. RAPIDITY OF GROWTH OF TREES. The variation in the growth of trees, due to the influence of many dif- ferent factors, is quite marked, and even when trees of the same age are growing side by side great difference in the size and development are noticeable. A chestnut tree under certain conditions will attain a diameter of 3 feet in fifty-six years, while another may require one hundred and fifty years to reach a diameter of 18 inches. The average diameter of 20 white ash trees measured by us was 16 inches in twenty years; and Italian poplars will occasionally grow 26 inches in the same length of time. The Carolina poplar will reach a diameter of 30 inches in fifteen years, which almost equals the growth of the eucalyptus in California. We have observed pin oaks that grew 18 inches in diameter in twenty years. The average diameter of 16 elm trees thirty years old was 17 inches. In another instance a similar number of elm trees attained an average diam- eter of 20 inches 4 feet from the ground in forty years. Recent measure- ments have shown that the average diameter growth of the thirty-year- old elm trees for a period of seven years was 3 inches, while that of the forty-year-old trees during the same period was -H inches. It is not un- common to find elms that have grown 3 feet in diameter in fifty years, or 4 feet in seventy years. An elm one hundred and thirty-one years old had a height of 110 feet, and a diameter of 6 feet at the base. On the other hand, many instances might be mentioned where trees have made very slow growth. Some elms, for example, showed a growth of only 11 inches in diameter in fifty years, and a white oak one hundred and thirty-two years old reached a diameter of 16 inches. Rock maples grow fairly rapidly in good soils, but we know of instances in which they have made only 6 or 8 inches growth in diameter in sixty years. Species accus- tomed to swamps, such as the white cedar and black spruce, grow quite 140 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. slowly, the latter not growing more than 5 inches in diameter in seventy years. To obtain the approximate growth of trees in any particular locality would require measurements of a very large number of specimens. The age of trees may be obtained by counting the annual rings of felled trees, or by cores taken from the trunk of living trees, while the age of conifers and others may be estimated by the number of internodes formed. There is often a vnde difference of opinion as regards the age of living trees, as the total leaf area is seldom taken into consideration. Since trees acquire CM. II 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 0 «0 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 i30YRS FIG. 10. — Grand period of growth (cross-section measurements) of an elm tree (Ulmus americana L.) in centimeters and decades. The maximum growth occurred between the tenth and thirtieth years, followed by a gradual decrease. From the nature of the curve we may conclude that if the tree had survived under normal conditions it was capable of developing for one hundred years more. practically all their structural material from the air by means of the chemical processes going on in the leaves, it follows that those possessing a large total leaf area grow much faster than those" with a smaller leaf area. A well-branched tree in the open will, therefore, grow six times as fast as one in the forest under crowded conditions. Consequently there is likely to occur much misconception regarding the age of living trees on account of the marked variation in their rate of growth under different conditions. The white pine, according to historical tradition, developed 6 feet in diameter and 250 feet in height in the New England primeval forest, and elms as street trees are known to have lived two hundred years. There are instances in Massachusetts where elms have lived to be three hundred years old. Many shade trees live to be one hundred and fifty years old and even more, and this age is not uncommon for forest SHADE TREES. 141 trees. Trees, however, do not grow with the same uniformity throughout their period of existence. At first they start in to grow more or less slowly, which is generally followed between the tenth and thirtieth year by the FIG. 11.— Plan of street at Hadley, Mass., approxi- mately 300 feet wide, provided with two driveways with green (G ) in center and generous tree belts. maximum development, this being followed throughout the remaining cycle by a gradual diminution in growth. (See Fig. 10.) The following list, showing the average growth of trees, represents approximately what a 3-inch sapling will develop into in twenty years. White maple, American elm, . Sycamore, Tulip tree, Basswood, Catalpa (speciosa), Red maple, Ailanthus, Cucumber tree, . Chestnut, . Inches. Inches. 21 Yellow locust, . . 14 19 Hard maple, . 13 . 18 Horse-chestnut, . 13 18 Honey locust, . 13 . 17 Red oak, . . 13 , 16 Pin oak, . . 13 16 . 13 16 White ash, . 12 15 White oak, . 11 14 Hackberry, . 10 STREETS AND AVENUES. The modern city streets are, as a rule, much better laid out for tree planting than the older ones, although there are some exceptions to this. In the Connecticut valley, where there is considerable level land, the early settlers showed remarkable judgment and taste in laying out their 142 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. towns. Many of these old towns are arranged with exceptionally wide streets that from early times were systematically planted with shade trees. Some of these streets are 300 feet wide and have two rows of shade trees on either side of the street. On the. other hand, many towns are poorly laid out, with no proper provision, or at any rate very poor pro- vision, for planting trees. FIG. 12. — Narrow avenue, showing trees planted alternately about 45 feet apart. Most towns will not accept a highway under 40 feet wide, which is narrow enough for tree planting; in fact, it would be much better if towns would not accept avenues less than 50 or 60 feet in width. Some of our modern cities, when laying out avenues, now make provision for a tree Fi<;. 13.— Plan of modern avenue provided with a 40-foot roadbed, 6-foot sidewalks, 23-foot tree belts, with alternating rows of trees 60 feet apart. belt or a space between the curbing and the sidewalk where trees may be planted. This space should be at least 4 feet wide, and 20 or even 30 feet wide is better. A tree belt 2 or 3 feet wide is far better than none, since this allows some space for planting. In case the sidewalk comes next to the curbing, and a special tree belt is lacking, it is always advis- SHADE TREES. 143 able to plant the trees near the abutter's line to protect them from horses, etc.; besides, the conditions for development are better here. When trees are planted too close to the sidewalk and curbing the roots interfere with them, and if the tree belt is narrow the roots are continually injuring the walks. In no case is it advisable to plant trees in the ditch, or even so close to the roadbeds that they are likely to be constantly scarred. Wide tree belts make it possible to alternate two rows of trees and secure more massive effects. A street having wide tree belts provided with good soil furnishes an excellent opportunity for tree growth and development, and with the installation of the best modern gas lines, sewer conduits, etc., there is no reason why trees should not nourish under these con- ditions. When the streets are narrow it is desirable, if conditions will permit, to plant alternately. This system allows much better opportunity for development of the trees. Besides the tree belt, many of our modern cities reserve a space in the center of the street for a miniature parkway, to furnish a chance for the planting of trees and shrubs. Much more attention should be given at the present day to the laying out of streets, and towns should be more careful about accepting too narrow highways. The present generation might learn much concerning street planning from the early settlers of our New England towns. DISTANCE TO PLANT. Opinions naturally differ in regard to the distance apart to plant trees. In fact, we must expect to find a diversity of opinion in all matters relating to the care and treatment of trees and shrubs owing to the vari- Fni. 14. — Plan of street with parkway and 6-foot tree belt. able conditions under which they grow; neither are the results sought for always the same. If street trees are to be planted for their final individual effect they should be set far enough apart not to interfere with one another; but if 144 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. the effect of the avenue as a whole is aimed at they can be planted closer together. What holds true in regard to trees is also true of shrubbery. Some gardeners plant masses of shrubbery together to get the effect of the whole, while others plant for the individual effects. Trees planted 20 or 25 feet apart will interfere in a few years, and if allowed to remain at this distance the individual effect of the tree is destroyed, although such close planting on an avenue is often effective. In one city which we recall the elms were planted 25 to 30 feet apart many years ago, presumably with the intention of future thinning, but as no one apparently ever had the courage to do this, the trees have now so developed as to interfere, and as a result have become deformed through crowding. It is now too late to practice thinning on these streets. While their indi- vidual characteristics are de- stroyed by their restricted development, yet it must be confessed that the high Gothic arch effect produced by such close planting is effective. When trees are planted very closely, every other one can eventually be taken out. The principal difficulty with this method is the courage required to do it; besides, in most places a hearing would have to be given for their removal which might meet with strong opposition. In one instance ash trees were planted in a row 25 feet apart. The limbs touched in twenty years, and later every other tree was removed, leaving the trees 50 feet apart. At their present rate of growth it will be some years before they interfere with one another. The limbs of medium-sized rock maples planted 40 feet apart will inter- fere, as will those of larger trees of this species when planted 60 feet apart. A good average distance for planting most street trees, however, is 45 to 55 feet. Even 70 to 80 feet is not too far apart to plant elms in some localities, as this tree grows to a large size, with a wide spread of foliage, and we are familiar with specimens of rock maples growing along a roadside which have a spread of 75 feet. For smaller trees, such as the European linden, 30 feet apart is not bad. Many maples are set 50 feet apart, and in localities where the development is slow and they do not attain a large size, even 40 feet apart is suitable. When the growth FIG. 15. — Street with tree belt, showing close planting. SHADE TREES. 145 of permanently planted species is slow, alternating trees of quick growth, like the Italian and Carolina poplars, is advisable, and when the more permanent trees have reached a fair height the poplars may be removed. COUNTRY ROADSIDES. One of the wisest provisions of the Massachusetts laws relative to shade trees is that trees and shrubs bordering country roadsides shall be pro- tected by statutes similar to those in residential districts. Much of the senseless slashing of roadside shrubbery so long in vogue is now largely prevented. Xew England country road- sides are unsurpassed in beauty, and the miscellaneous character of trees and shrubs to be found growing along them is a source of great pleasure to tourists. There are several ways of treating country roadsides. One of these methods is to maintain a regularly planted tree belt on a graded and neatly kept roadside, which results in a conventional effect. Another scheme consists in allowing the development of shrubbery and eliminating the tree growth which is often objection- FIG. 16._Illu3trating method of able when crops are growing up to the highway. Or a system combining both shrubbery and trees may be employed, allowing the trees eventually to crowd out most of the shrubbery. Most roadsides are lined with a miscel- laneous growth of shrubbery and trees, located irregularly, which produce good effects, but when conventionality in the surroundings has been aimed at the well-kept roadside and tree belt are legitimate. However, there are roadsides on which no trees or shrubbery can be allowed, — for instance when the road runs through valuable farm land used for more or less intensive agricultural purposes. Trees absorb a great deal of moisture, and this factor and the shade produced interfere greatly with crop production. For generations roadsides have been used for dumping grounds by certain misguided persons, and one of the objects of maintaining road- side shrubbery in its natural condition is to cover this extreme unsight- liness from view. Unfortunately many think they are conferring a benefit on the public when they cut roadside shrubbery and leave it beside the road to decay. Roadside planting is Nature's planting, and is envied by the best landscape architects. It has the merit of intrinsic beauty; it is harmonious, no matter how heterogeneous the mass may be, and never becomes tiresome or monotonous like conventional planting. Many growing trees on busy thor- oughfares. The conventional type, such as the Oriental plane which tolerates severe annual pruning, is planted between the sidewalk and curbing in a rich loam 3 or 4 feet deep, provided with spe- cial subirrigation tile. 146 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. of the shrubs and vines which decorate roadsides are now used extensively by landscape gardeners in planting, and various species are very highly prized. The native shrubbery consists of the various elderberries, Viburnums, honeysuckles, cornels or dogwoods, hawthorns, hollies, sumachs, azaleas, laurels, blueberries, etc. There are also such species as the chokecherries, witch- hazel, sassafras, alders, etc: The most characteristic New England country roadside trees are the chestnut, various oaks and maples, hickories, ashes, pines, hemlock, elm, cher- ries, hornbeam, tupelo, birches and poplars. They are found growing in all sorts of combinations, mingled with different types of shrubbery, vines and herbaceous plants, with resulting effects quite unlike those obtained by artificial planting. Aside from the removal of briers and other growths too close to the roadbed, or the cutting out of the natural vegetation near abrupt curves where its presence constitutes an element of danger to traffic, or in cases where some legitimate scheme involving permanent improvement is concerned, roadside shrubbery should not be destroyed. There are, of course, occasions when the cutting of roadside shrubbery is desirable to improve the new growth which soon follows, but this should be done with discretion and care. FIG. 17. — Country roadside, showing spontaneous growth of native species. ROOT CHARACTERISTICS. There are well-defined differences in the development of the root systems of shade trees. All seedlings develop what are termed primary and secondary root systems; the former are known as taproots and the latter as laterals. In certain species like the red cedar the taproot develops quite extensively. In young trees its function is relatively more im- portant than in older ones; hence it is usually easier to transplant large pasture cedars than small ones, which are more dependent on the tap- root. The lateral root system in some trees is well developed, and those having this system are in general the easiest to handle. The elm, maple, SHADE TREES. 147 hemlock, pine and others are easily transplanted with little loss because it is not difficult to obtain enough of the lateral root system to supply the tree. Some species, however, possessing lateral root systems appear to be dependent upon root fungi (micorhiza), which restricts them to particular soils and renders them sometimes difficult to get established in certain localities. Many plants, like the sumach and others, possess long, creeping lateral roots which must be taken up carefully to insure successful transplanting. Depth of Roots. Some idea of the depth to which roots extend may be had by examining excavations near trees, and also to some extent by plowing. Most elm and maple roots are confined within 2 feet of the surface, but in wet soil they are generally much nearer than this. The large roots of the European larch are very near the surface, and usually somewhat exposed. Pine and hemlock roots are frequently seen running on top of the ground, and in swamps, where trees often blow over, it may be observed that the entire root system is located within a few inches of the surface. Oak and chest- nut roots do not appear to penetrate very far, as shown by the ease with which winds uproot the trees when growing even in ordinary soil. The maximum number of roots of most trees in ordinary soil is probably located between 1 foot and 18 inches below the surface. Roots often penetrate soil to great depths, and when growing in gravel become flattened out in irregular shapes from growing around large pebbles. Apple tree roots have been known to grow through a mass of coarse gravel 8 feet to obtain water, and elm and rock maple roots will penetrate quite a distance to reach a water table. The roots of the com- mon clover one year old have been known to descend to a depth of 8 feet; those of parsnip more than 13| feet; and of lucerne, a leguminous plant, more than 20 feet. The roots of a leguminous tree growing in India have been traced to 69 feet below the surface without reaching their full length. The distance to which roots extend laterally may generally be roughly determined by the spread of the crown. Practically all trees extend their roots beyond their foliage or branches. The Norway spruce and others, which have narrow crowns, do not have an extended lateral system. The maple and elm have well-developed root systems which extend to a con- siderable distance. There is a correlation between the shape of the aerial portion of a plant and its root system. The leaves of root crops like radish, turnip and others are so placed on the stalk that they divert the rain toward the axis of the plant, or taproot. On the other hand, the apices of the leaves of many plants are deflected away from the axis, i.e., toward the lateral or feeding roots. Most shade trees are noted for their large crowns, with the leaves pointing away from the trunk and directing the rain where it is most needed, whereas the soil near the trunk does not receive much water. This feature admirably illustrates biological adaptation. 148 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. Such trees as the balm of Gilead and Italian poplar possess extensive root systems. This is evident from the root suckers which may fre- quently be seen coming up quite a little distance beyond the spread of the branches, and many roots will grow in a horizontal direction to great distances. There is an authentic case of an elm whose roots were found in abundance 75 feet from the trunk, — just the height of the tree. In another case the roots of an elm were found obstructing drain tile which was 450 feet from the tree. The leading roots of a pear tree developed in 60 feet of a line of drain tile during five years measured 8,498 feet (1.61 miles); if smaller roots be included, the total length was about 2 miles. A squash grown in a greenhouse produced in a few weeks a total of 15 miles of root growth, or over 1,000 feet of roots per day. Obstruction of Sewer Tile, etc., by the Roots of Trees. The obstruction of sewer services and drain tile by tree roots has in some places become such a nuisance that steps have been taken in certain cities to obviate it. The elm is a troublesome tree in this respect, often completely filling land drain tile for long distances with roots, and putting the tile out of commission. The Carolina poplar is a more troublesome tree, however. This causes so much damage to house sewer connections that its use for planting has been discontinued in some sections. The Carolina poplar is a tree of such rapid growth that an extensive root system is developed in a short time. Sewage appears to have an especial attraction for the roots of this tree. They seem to have no difficulty in penetrating even the cement joints of Akron tile, and when once in the tile the root develop- ment is remarkable. In one city as many as eighteen sewer services had to be taken up and repaired in one month the sections were so badly con- gested with roots of the Carolina poplar. Other tree roots occasionally enter tiles, cesspools and wells, but the Carolina poplar appears to be the greatest offender in this respect. From the results of numerous experiments covering a period of years it is evident that roots can be kept from penetrating drain tile by properly packing the joints with chemically treated fibers, which destroy the delicate roots as they attempt to enter.1 BRANCHING CHARACTERISTICS. There is considerable difference in the branching habits of trees. This must be understood before a tree can be developed along desirable lines. The red and Norway maples have a habit of sending out large branches or secondary leaders at more or less oblique angles, very close to the ground. If allowed to develop, these render the trees undesirable for street use; but if started right when young by pruning, such trees may be trained ta meet the requirements of residential streets. However, iMass. Agr. Expt. Sta. Rpt. 23, Pt. 2, p. 35 (1911). SHADE TREES. 149 if pruning is attempted when they are fairly well developed, great injury results, and the symmetry of the tree may never be entirely regained. The habit of the rock maple is to prodnce one or two strong vertical leaders, and its ultimate development is such that it seldom gives much trouble so far as pruning is concerned. The branches of the pin oak are low and drooping. This objection- able feature detracts from the value of this tree for use on streets, but may be overcome by high pruning. The branching habits of the elm, on the other hand, make it one of our most desirable shade trees, the branches invariably forming acute angles with one another. Elms oftentimes develop low, more or less horizontal branches, but these possess no permanent value and may subsequently be removed. The ideal mature elm offers no obstacles to street traffic, and even the wires of public service • corporations seldom interfere with the branches. On the other hand, evergreens, like the Norway spruce, branch to the ground, and for their best development they should never be placed where it is necessary to prune them, as cutting the lower limbs of the Norway spruce and most other conifers detracts greatly from the beauty of the trees. Many trees, including some of the maples, birch, oak, chestnut and elm, and most shrubs, have a habit of suckering or sprouting from the roots. Much of the timber growth such as the chestnut is of this nature, and is termed "sprout growth." This growth is very common in wood- lands and along roadsides which have been cut off. Trees originating from root suckers do not possess the value of those grown from seed, and consequently should not be used for transplanting. Stump growth may develop faster for the first few years than seedlings, but later growth is often slow. As the sprout growth reaches maturity it generally becomes involved with the stump, which ultimately decays, leaving an ugly cavity at the base of the tree. Most sprout growth shows abnormalities in the foliage the first few years, and it is likewise more susceptible to aphis. The extensive root system of the tree which nourishes it induces malnutri- tion or overfeeding characteristics which are pathological. The formation of sprouts on the trunks and branches of trees is of great value in their restoration. Sprouts sometimes originate from the callus of wounds, and are quite serviceable in accelerating healing. SOIL CONDITIONS, TEXTURE, ETC. It requires only a glance at the trees of any particular region to observe their natural choice of environment. While this does not always mean that trees will not grow elsewhere with the same degree of vigor as in their natural habitat, — indeed the growth is often more vigorous, — they are very likely to prove less resistant to various troubles. One cannot be always certain, however, that, because a species is restricted 150 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. to a particular location or habitat, it has realized its optimum condition for development. In some cases there is reason to believe that their choice may be determined by some minor inherent peculiarity common to the species, such as seed habit. Some species of plants are confined to dry soils, while in other loca- tions the same species grow in moist situations. In a botanical sense these are identical species, but they may possess such different physiolog- ical adaptations as to warrant the term " physiological species." Soil texture plays an important role in the distribution and develop- ment of plants, and is inseparably associated with water-retaining capacity. Soil texture affects the color, size and 'thickness of the foliage, and also has an influence upon susceptibility and nonsusceptibility to certain troubles. Even in limited areas trees possess different habits of growth, and soil texture is probably the most important contributory factor. For example, the elms in the eastern part of Massachusetts are different from those in the Connecticut valley. Those growing in the Housatonic valley differ from either, assuming a more vase-like form and being characterized by the development of a larger number of vertical leaders or branches. The greatest number of symmetrical elms and the best types of branch- ing occur in this region. The rock maples in the Connecticut valley are of a different type from those found elsewhere, growing larger and more luxuriantly. This region is characterized, also, by the occasional occurrence of a beautiful, dark- colored, densely foliaged form resembling the black maple, Acer sac- charum var. nigrum, noticed farther west. Like the elm, much difference in the branching habits of the rock maple may be observed here and there which appears to be characteristic of certain localities. There is, however, a wide diversity of conditions in nature under which trees may live and develop. The rock maple, oak and hickory appear to be at home on our rocky hillsides, while the basswood, canoe birch and beech are adapted to soil containing humus. The chestnut is confined largely to clay hills or "drumlins," where it has grown since time im- memorial. The sycamore, pin oak, red maple, tupelo and swamp white oak are confined to low, moist soil ; while the scarlet, red, white and yellow oaks, pitch pine, poplar, gray birch and red cedar prefer drier locations. The willows, Carolina poplar, red birch and hackberry are closely re- stricted to streams; and the white cedar, tamarack and black spruce to swamps. The white pine is quite generally distributed, and in New England it is adapted to a greater variety of conditions than any other tree in our flora. Notwithstanding the wide diversity of conditions to which our native trees are subject, they can with care be made to thrive under different conditions. Rhododendrons may be grown successfully in dry soil having 2 or 3 feet of muck placed underneath, and trees adapted to moist places will develop well in poor soil if freely supplied with fine-textured loam. SHADE TREES. 151 The moisture content of a relatively dry soil may be greatly modified by the addition of organic matter, which increases the water-retaining capacity and makes the soil more suitable to swamp-loving species. But swamp trees that make excellent growth in dry soil need to be supplied with water during drought periods. There are other factors than those of soil texture, water supply, etc., that influence the distribution of plants. The chemical composition of the soil affects the habitat of trees, and is capable of modif ying to some extent their mode of growth. Many plants are restricted in their range owing to differences in the chemical composition of the soil. Certain species are practically confined to the seacoast, where the percentage of chlorine in the soil is greater than it is inland; but these species may be grown successfully elsewhere. The amount of humus in the soil affects the growth of trees materially. While 20 or 30 per cent, of organic matter was formerly contained in the upper strata of our soils, now not more than 2 to 5 per cent, may be found in a large portion of it. Organic matter has ;i vital effect not only on the physical properties of soils, but on their chemical and biological properties, influencing the development of mi- corhiza (beneficial root fungi) that are intimately associated with the roots of some of our shade trees. Soils also contain toxic elements that are often found in sufficient abundance to make it difficult to establish certain species in the desired location. It is desirable in all cases when planting trees to give them conditions closely approximating their requirements as determined by their natural habitat. Elm trees often grow in swamps, as well as in dry and sandy soils, but both of these habitats produce poor specimens. The swamp tree is usually of inferior shape, and sandy soil as a rule produces a lank, spindling growth, with inferior foliage. Even the best type of elm, if planted under uncongenial conditions, will make poor development regardless of its inherent qualifications. The elm, therefore, should never be planted in dry, gravelly soil without being supplied with a large amount of good loam of the proper texture. The rock maple, on the other hand, will endure a dry soil much better than the elm, although if too dry borers may affect the tree. The scarlet and black oaks will thrive in such a soil. In general, the texture of the soil in most towns is fairly well suited to the growth of a large variety of trees. The soils often lack organic matter, hence the application of loam is advantageous. On the other hand, some of our New England river valleys are particularly adapted to the growth of elms and maples, and the addition of loam in such cases is not so necessary. Street trees are too often forced to exist under extremely unfavorable conditions; therefore they require different consideration from those more favorably located. Many city trees are planted in made soil, and some of the refuse found in these fillings is hardly adapted to tree growth. Such soils are, moreover, likely to be deficient in organic matter and plant food, and are often in such poor mechanical condition that the soil capillarity is of little account. 152 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. SOIL COVERS, LAWNS, MACADAM, ETC. The nature of the soil cover surrounding trees is scarcely less important than that of the soil in which the roots are growing. We find trees growing under many different conditions: e.g., lawns, mowings, cultivated fields, paved and macadamized roads, sidewalks, etc., and it is hardly necessary to point out that cultivation is much superior to all other conditions. The importance of tillage is scarcely appreciated in the case of ordinary crops, even by lifelong farmers. Stirring the soil, even without the use of fertilizers, has enormous influence on the growth of crops, and is also an important factor in the control of various tree pests, a thrifty tree being more resistant to infection. Cultivation not only aerates the soil, but breaks up the capillarity and conserves the moisture, — of great importance in dry soils. Examples of the good effects of cultivation on shade trees may be seen in the many specimens growing luxuriantly in soil in which crops have been cultivated for years. Trees under these conditions branch freely and produce large leaves of a deep green color. Cultivation of the soil about trees for even one year has a decided effect. Next to cultivation, lawn conditions are perhaps the best. The grass, which is constantly being mowed and left on the ground, acts as a mulch and conserves the moisture. Some of our best trees grow in pastures, where the conditions are often unfavorable to the growth of grass or where the grass is kept closely cropped by grazing. A mowing or hay field is one of the worst possible locations for a tree, the elm being particularly susceptible to the ill effects of such an environment. Measurements of elms growing on either side of a road, one series being under partial lawn and the other under partial mowing conditions, showed differences in their development. The average growth of these trees during a period of twenty-five years is as follows: those on the lawn side of the road had a circumference of 56 inches, while those on the other, or mowing, side were only 49 inches. In another case the average circumference of lawn trees was 37 inches, and that of the mowing trees, 26 inches. These trees, which had been growing under these conditions for many years, were of the same age, and were so located that the difference in light intensity cannot be considered a factor in their development. The extensive use of various materials for paving roads can hardly have a beneficial influence on tree growth. In some cities a great many trees are found on streets paved with asphalt from one block front to another, allowing nothing but a small space around the trees unpaved. .t is a question in such oases where the trees obtain their moisture, al- though they exist year after year, and make some growth. No doubt some water is obtained from catch basins and sewers; at any rate, moisture is usually found in the soil under the most impervious substance employed in paving, and during the most severe droughts trees on paved streets often suffer less from lack of water than others apparently more favorably SHADE TREES. 153 located. This may possibly be explained by the fact that whatever moisture reaches the soil under these paved streets is to a certain extent conserved, the surface evaporation being less than where no pavements are found. The severity of the conditions to which trees are subjected when surrounded by pavements varies considerably, and when more or !i->< water is allowed to leach through them the soil moisture conditions cannot be unfavorable. The more thoroughly a roadbed is sealed the more soil aeration must be affected. How largely this factor enters into the problem is unknown, but while trees do survive under extremely severe conditions, their length of life must be limited. EXCAVATIONS, CURSINGS AND SIDEWALKS. Remodeling and regrading streets are a frequent cause of injury to trees. In placing curbstones large roots are often cut, and in regrading streets so much soil is frequently removed that the base of the tree is left high in the air and the exposed root surfaces become injured by traffic. Besides these mechanical injuries, the exposed roots are likely to be injured from other causes such as winterkilling, sun scald, road oil, etc. If the roots are cut to any extent the tree deteriorates in value, and if grown under other unfavorable conditions it usually succumbs to a lingering death. Again, root mutilation too often takes place when sidewalks are being laid, and it is quite difficult to prevent it when the trees are large and have extensive root systems. The cement sidewalk with, its deep foundation constitutes more of a menace to roots than a tar or brick walk, but if care is used in excavating, much root cutting may be pre- vented. The roots of trees located under a modern roadbed have little chance of remaining uninjured, with the sewers, water pipes, gas lines, telephone systems, electric wire and other conduits that are constantly being installed. Electric railways may also cause injury to trees in various ways. It is more injurious, of course, to the tree to cut the large roots close to the trunk than the small ones some distance from it. In widening a certain road a few years ago 4 or 5 feet of the banking adjoining a row of ash trees were removed, destroying a large number of the smaller roots on the west side of the trees, but this cutting had little or no noticeable effect upon the trees. They were young and vigorous, and on the east side the roots extended into cultivated ground, apparently soon making up for the loss on the roadside. Since the cutting of these roots, every other tree has been removed, and measurements of the rings of the stumps show that not the slightest retardation in growth had taken place follow- ing the operation. One fact should be remembered: mutilation of the root system is not so serious as that of the stems and branches, the former responding more quickly to the stimulus caused by mutilation. In transplanting young trees 80 to 95 per cent, of the essential part of the root system is usually destroyed, and even with a slight pruning of the top the tree usually survives when the work is properly done. Indeed, the cutting of the roots has been known to be beneficial, as, for instance, 154 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. in the case of gas leaks in the street. Many cases are known to the writer where large trees have escaped gas poisoning owing to the fact that when the curbing was put in some of the larger roots leading towards the gas main were destroyed; therefore when leakage occurred there were no roots favorably located to absorb the poisonous substances. The cutting of roots on vigorous trees is not so serious as cutting those of old trees. In the latter case judgment should be exercised as to root cutting. EFFECTS OF LIGHT AND SHADE. Most plants are quite susceptible to light and shade. Those which require light are termed photophilic (light friendly), and those which thrive best in shade, photophobic (light shunning). Shade has an unfavor- able effect on plants, causing a spindling growth and rendering them more susceptible to diseases. On the other hand, too much light is detri- mental to certain species. The dense shade from street trees interferes at times with the growth of grass and shrubbery on lawns. Since there are relatively few varieties that are adapted to shade, it often becomes a problem as to what to plant in such locations. However, a glance at any native flora will give a hint of what is best adapted to shady places. Such wild species as clethera, rhododendron, hobblebush, leatherwood, moose and mountain maples, laurel and honeysuckle tolerate shade, and there are some exotic shrubs, such as Ligustrum regelianum, Symphoricarpus tulgaris, Xanthorrhiza apiifolia, etc., and vines like Euonymus radicans and Vinca minor, that are adapted to shade. Notwithstanding the fact that shade is natural to some species, they develop a less spindling growth in light. Shade trees require light ; hence for their best development they should be planted far enough apart to prevent interference and spindling growth. The effect of shade on trees when growing thickly together is a dying of the lower branches, inducing growth in height at the expense of spread of the crown and growth in diameter. The variation in light intensity differs, as is well known, during the year. Light intensity is also variable in different localities, and there are definite variations that occur in light intensity during the day which are more pronounced at some seasons of the year than at others. The difference in the amount of sunshine peculiar to any region is not depend- ent on latitude but on other conditions. For example, the number of hours of total sunshine occurring during the year at Boston, Mass., is 2,493; Cleveland, Ohio, 2,075; Chicago, 111., 2,616; Milwaukee, Wis., 1,865; Seattle, Wash., 1,973; Elkins, W. Va., 1,737; Phoenix, Ariz., 3,742, and New Orleans, La., 2,378. These marked variations in the number of hours of sunshine show that latitude does not necessarily con- stitute an important factor in determining light conditions. The amount of possible sunshine, according to the United States meterological ob- servatories, varies from 37 to 84 per cent. Variations in light intensity SHADE TREES. 155 or number of hours of sunshine are correlated with growth and develop- ment of vegetation, although temperature is very important too. Morning light is more intense that that of the afternoon, and this difference exerts an influence upon the growth of trees. Measurements of a large number of tree stumps ranging from ninety-five to two hundred and twenty years old showed 17 per cent, more growth of the radii on the east side than on the west, and the radii measurements attained from the stumps of a row of ash trees running north and south were 24 per cent, greater on the east than west side. Two rows of trees bordering either side of a road running approximately east and west showed a difference of 11 per cent, in their circumference growth 4 feet from the ground, during a period of seven or eight years, in favor of the south row. Daily measurements of light made by us for one year showed an average dif- ference of 10 per cent, in favor of morning conditions. Since photosyn- thesis or carbon assimilation is proportionate to light intensity, and growth is in proportion to photosynthesis, there naturally follows a greater growth on the east than on the west sides of trees, and the same holds true for the east and west slopes of high elevation. The light conditions at high elevations are more intense than low elevations, and the difference may equal 25 per cent, more or less, depending upon the altitude and other conditions. Light is an important factor in the process of photosynthesis or carbon assimilation in leaves, about 95 per cent, of the structural material of the tree being obtained by this process. Light inhibits growth and stimulates the formation of mechanical and resistant tissue; on the other hand, darkness or lack of light stimulates growth. Light affects the size, color and texture of the foliage, and, in fact, the whole configuration of the organism. Since morning light conditions are better than those in the afternoon it is well to set trees with their poorest developed sides towards the south- east, as they will become more favorably exposed to light conditions; hence they will develop more rapidly on this side. Moreover, an avenue of trees located on the east and south sides of a road will develop more rapidly than those on the west and north sides, and trees and crops located on the east side of a hill will develop more rapidly than those located on the west side. An east exposure is therefore much better for the rapid development of an orchard than a west exposure, and the same holds true for different crops and shade trees. TRANSPLANTING. Too little attention is given to the details of transplanting. It is quite essential that soil conditions should be suitable for the growth of the particular species of tree planted, and in the selection of material for planting there is great need of more care. A large amount of poor material is constantly being used, besides which, injudicious use of the knife and pruning shears maims many trees for life. Trees 6 to 8 feet high are usually 156 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. too small for street planting, not being so well adapted to street con- ditions as larger ones ranging from 1£ to 3 or 4 inches in diameter. More- over, by using larger trees one can obtain a better idea of their future development and configuration. The life cycles of trees are by no means identical even in the same species. The conditions which a certain species seems to require at one period of its existence are less suitable for another period, especially as regards soil requirements for root development, older trees appearing to tolerate certain conditions better than younger ones. Young trees 5 to 6 feet high will often fail to grow for some years after transplanting under the poor conditions often prevailing on streets, while larger ones will start immediately to grow. Much more attention should be given to the type of tree transplanted than is generally given. The same species varies greatly in different localities. Lopsided elms should be avoided, and only those selected which possess a habit of growth calculated to produce a desirable type. It is worth while to secure elms from those localities where the most perfect types abound. In localities where much desirable native material exists this can be used to ad- vantage for street planting, and if care- fully handled it will prove successful. Native material, or that gathered from the fields, however, is much improved by nursery conditions, and two or three years under such conditions are desirable when utilizing native stock. Most competent authorities recommend planting a few trees well rather than many poorly, and when one recalls the large amount of poor planting seen around dwellings, and the weak-looking specimens of trees and shrubs, this advice will appear pertinent. Town funds1 do not always allow the appropriation of a large sum of money for transplanting trees, and one must do the best he can with the conditions under which he has to labor. Special attention, therefore, should be given to the adaptability of certain species to the conditions at hand, since the cost of extensive preparation and soil modification is too often beyond the funds allowed for this purpose. The advice given by Olmsted Brothers, landscape architects, in one of their reports, regard- ing the planting of elms, is to the point: - » During the year 1914, 12,498 trees were planted by tree wardens in 58 cities and towns in Massachusetts. FIG. 18. — A State highway speci- men of elm worthless for future development. SHADE TREES. 157 It would be better to prepare tree beds 2 to 3 feet deep and 20 to 30 feet square, filled with good loamy soil where the present ground is dry and sandy gravel, even if the expense of doing so would be so great that only one tree a year could be planted. Few trees, however, outside of those planted in the Arnold Arboretum and on a few private estates receive any such treatment. It must be borne in mind in planting that shade trees are always under more or less disadvantageous conditions as regards atmosphere and soil. Hence it is of the greatest importance that they should be aided as much as pos- sible, and the time is not far distant when much more specific methods must be employed in the planting of street trees in thickly settled com- munities. Even at the present tune, where ideal conditions are sought much more money is spent in prepara- tion for transplanting than in purchase of the trees. The majority of street trees which are planted are not sup- plied with loam or placed in holes over 2 or 3 feet wide and 15 inches deep, and some of them are given space only large enough to contain their roots. Loosening up the soil to a considerable depth is very important, as shown by the results of the use of dynamite in the preparation of soil for transplanting. A hole 5 to 6 feet wide by 20 inches deep in any case should be the smallest used, and it should be as much larger as can be afforded. When digging up young trees the roots should be preserved as much as possible, and the more earth taken up with the roots the better. The roots should not be exposed to sun and wind, and if possible should be kept covered and moist. For this purpose damp straw, bagging or sphagnum moss may be used. It is usually the practice to place the best side of the tree toward the north and the poorest toward the south, since the light conditions on the south side are better, and naturally better growth results. It is also advisable to lean a tree toward the direction of the prevailing winds, and if these are strong enough to interfere with the growth of the tree it should be fastened to a strong stake. Trees obtained from the field where they have been growing close together have long, slender shafts and are top-heavy. When such trees are planted in windy situations it is neces- sary to support them by stakes. When the ground is prepared for planting, the injured roots should be recut so that healing may take place, and before being covered they FIG. 19. — Elm severely cut back when transplanted. This has destroyed its natural symmetry. 158 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. should be properly arranged in the soil. According to good authorities trees should never be planted more than two or three inches deeper than they originally grew, and too deep planting often causes their death. It is more convenient for two men to set out a tree than one, as one can hold the tree in the proper position while the other is filling the soil in around the roots. The top soil, if of good quality, may be used, but it is better to dis- card the poorer subsoil and replace it with loam. Much depends, how- ever, upon the nature of the subsoil and whether the species is adapted to grow in it. In any planting the best soil should be placed at the bottom of the hole or under the roots, and the sod when properly pulverized may be used, care being taken not to interfere too much with the soil capil- larity. The poorer soil which covers the roots may be enriched and its texture improved by working in manure or other organic matter. Manure, however, should be sparingly used and thoroughly incorporated with the loam, care being taken not to bring it in too close contact with the roots. Towns and cities which do much transplanting might make good use of composted street cleanings; and if land were available for a small nursery, it could be used to good advantage by tree wardens and foresters. When a tree is being set out the soil about the roots should be well tamped. Many people apply water to the roots at the time of trans- planting, and if the season is an unusually dry one the watering may be repeated occasionally. But persistent watering is injurious, and young trees are sometimes killed in this way. If the soil around the roots is well tamped when the trees are set out it is not essential that water should be applied at all, and it may even be injurious by washing the soil from the roots and leaving air spaces. One of the most essential features in transplanting is to secure as nearly as possible normal conditions of the soil about the roots. It may be mentioned here that watering large trees near their trunks is not a wise practice, since the feeding roots are quite a distance from the tree. One would suppose that an elementary knowl- edge of tree growth would discourage such a course, although it is possible, by constant watering and cultivation, to encourage the formation of roots at the base of the tree. After the tree is set out a mulching of hay, straw or horse manure con- taining considerable straw may be used to help conserve the moisture in the soil and to keep down the grass and weeds which rob the soil of its moisture and food. Transplanted trees require a certain amount of pruning to accommodate the leaf and root systems to each other, and it is usually necessary to cut back the branches to meet these requirements. (See Pruning.) There are differences of opinion in regard to methods of transplanting trees, and undoubtedly more than one method may be used. Opinions also differ in regard to the best time of year for transplanting, but it may be said that most persons prefer the spring to the fall. We are of the opinion that it is not advisable to plant too small trees, preferring elms SHADE TREES. 159 and maples 1\ to 4 or 6 inches in diameter, since they take hold of the t cut from the tree trunk; (e) the same with limbs cut close and the with mallet and chisel. the cleaner the cut the better it will heal. There is, moreover, less chance for subsequent rotting. 162 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. Many of the cavities in trees are caused by leaving long stubs on the trunk of the tree, which become infected and disintegrated, the decay following back into the heart of the tree. (See Fig. 21.) It is therefore essential that close pruning and antiseptic treatment of the wounds should be practiced in order to prevent this decay. The plastic materials in a tree will not follow up a long stump and form a callus unless there are some branches left upon it which bear leaves, and even then healing is most likely to take place only close to the living branch of the stump. Two or more cuts should be made when pruning practically all limbs to prevent peeling, and on limbs of any size it is necessary to make the incision on the under side for the same reason. (See Fig. 22.) After re- moving the limbs with a saw, a mallet and chisel may be used to smooth up the cut surface. This induces a better callus growth. It is well to prune carefully at the time of transplanting, when all street trees should be trimmed to a height of 8 or 10 feet or more. It is usually necessary at this time to prune for the purpose of balancing the root and branch system, and when this is done some of the less desirable branches may be sacrificed, and those remaining may be cut back to some extent, if necessary. However, a great deal of unwise and careless pruning of nursery stock and young trees is done, and many specimens are ruined in this way. Tree pruning shears should not be used in a haphazard manner, and a distinct idea of the object in view should be borne in mind. Moreover, species differ greatly in their response to mutilation, and what may prove of little consequence to one may be quite injurious to another. The practice of topping trees is injurious, and should never be resorted to except in special cases. All of the reserve material in the tree is stored in the roots, stem and branches, and in a transplanted tree this is suf- ficient to develop the foliage. It is necessary that a young transplanted tree should have a certain amount of foliage for growth and development, since the rapidity of growth is dependent upon leaf development. The type of trees termed "bean poles," having the tops so cut away that there are no limbs left, is not suited, therefore, to transplanting. Trees like the willow will survive any amount of mutilation, but elms, maples and others must be handled more carefully to obtain the best results. Pruning has a marked effect on the conformation of trees. Pruning the branches or secondary organs directs the energies of growth to the trunk, whereas topping, or the destruction of the leader, has the FIG. 23. — Formation of a cavity in tree caused by the removal of a large limb, and wound not prop- erly cared for. SHADE TREES. 163 reverse effect. Continual pruning of the lower branches induces the tree to grow taller than it otherwise would, and in some locations is advantageous to the tree. Topping is destructive to the formation of typical crowns in such trees as the elm, hornbeam, etc., whereas in other trees, like the Carolina poplar, topping or pollarding has a tendency to thicken them up and make them more desirable shade trees. The con- figuration of the crowns of maple trees is modified to some extent by topping them when they are young. This modification is manifested by / Fn;. 24. — Too common method of pruning limbs, resulting in the disfiguration of the tree : (a) tree before pruning; (b> limb cut too close, resulting in the peeling of the bark; (r) unsightly wound caused by this method of pruning. the more vertical growth of the branches, thus producing a more narrow crown. The cutting back of old trees is usually disappointing. It is often a question as to whether this is worth while, although if not too far gone, old trees may be restored to a more or less vigorous condition by judicious pruning, tillage and feeding. When elm branches a foot or more in diameter are topped, nothing but a bushy growth results. By removing all but a single sprout, thus diverting the plastic materials, much better growth may be obtained, and replacing of the sacrificed member may be more readily obtained. 164 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. There is a difference of opinion as to the best time to prune, some authorities advocating spring and others preferring the fall of the year. Many people prune when the tree is in foliage, — in May or later. There are advantages in pruning in either season. Since trees occasionally bleed when pruned in early summer, painting the wounds is not always success- fully accomplished under these conditions; on the other hand, scars on vigorous trees are likely to heal somewhat during the summer if the pruning is done early. The tools required in pruning are as follows: for general work, a good coarse-tooth, wide-set saw (5 teeth per inch) ; for larger limbs, a small 3 or 4 foot hand cross-cut saw; and for smaller limbs not easily accessible, a pole saw is convenient. Pole-saw blades may be ordered through hard- ware dealers, and may be fitted to poles of any desired length. A pole hook, which can be made by any blacksmith, is often useful for removing the small dead branches. For lowering large limbs a set of blocks is necessary, and in the felling of trees a cross-cut saw is indispensable. Ropes of various sizes, iron wedges for felling trees, axes, mallets and chisels, ladders, spurs for climbing, etc., are also indispensable. The above are the most essential tools for pruning shade trees, although there are others which are extremely useful and time saving. Healing of Wounds. A protective feature characteristic of all plants is well illustrated in the healing of wounds. The healing tissues (callus) in a tree are the cambium and adjacent meristematic cells located be- tween the wood and the outer bark. The plastic substances which provide the material for growth and healing are manufactured in the leaf, and are transferred through certain tissues of the inner bark (phloem) adjacent to the cambium to various parts of the tree. When the tree is girdled or the bark removed no growth takes place below the girdling be- i«fty?!flH[:^SRHl cause the channels of transportation are \ itfXw destroyed- In some young plants the pith cells possess the power to form a callus, but such cases are rare and of little importance. The younger the tissue or organ the more quickly it will heal, providing other things are favor- able, and vigorous trees will form a callus much more quickly than old or weak ones. Since the plastic substances are manufac- tured in the leaf, and since it is these sub- stances which are necessary for the develop- ment of healing tissue, it is only when FIG. 25. — Healing of wound. Most active healing follows most direct lines of trans- ference of plastic materials. SHADE TREES. 165 wounds are located along the line of transference of the plastic substance that they develop healing tissue. The sides of a circular wound as a rule heal over most rapidly because they are most directly in the chan- nels of the transference of the plastic substances, and the top and bottom of the wound heal more slowly. When these facts are borne in mind it will be seen that a proper shaping of the wound is im- portant for the development of a more or less even callus formation. (See Fig. 25.) Cuts made near large, leafy branches are more likely to heal quickly than those near small ones, for the reason that a larger amount of the plastic materials is available. To facilitate healing, recourse is occasionally made to cutting the bark smooth around the stumps of the removed limbs, and it is also claimed that after the callus is well started a recutting of the surface stimulates its growth. Moisture is said to stimulate the growth of the callus, and the old practice of covering the wound with a mixture of cow manure, clay and lime had this object in view. Disinfectants for Wounds and Cavities. There are many erroneous ideas concerning the effectiveness of dis- infectants and their use in general. This is particularly true of disinfect- ing materials used in tree work. Because a certain disinfectant is used FIG. 26. — Effects of antiseptic treatment of wood in soil two years: (a) treated with Carbolineum; (6) creosote; (c) untreated. Little difference between (a) and (b) ; in (c) practically all decayed and about 50 per cent, completely. successfully for one purpose it does not follow that it is applicable to all. As a matter of fact, all disinfectants are limited in their usefulness owing to the great variation existing in organisms as regards amenability to treatment by chemical substances. Disinfectants, therefore, possess specific rather than general properties, which are determined by many different factors. Copper sulfate, for example, is remarkably effective 166 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. when applied to reservoirs, ponds, etc., for cleaning out objectionable growths of many kinds, even when used at 1 to 1,000,000 parts or at 1 to 10,000,000 parts; while to be effective against the common blue mold, Penicittium, which is often found in the wood of dead trees, it requires a solution of about 1 to 30, or several thousand times stronger. In the disinfection of wood tissues the following points should be con- sidered. The disinfectant should be capable of penetrating wood tissues. An oily substance, which has more penetrating power, is far better adapted to this purpose than a watery solution. The substance should be only slightly volatile and should keep its original form, or at any rate its antiseptic properties, indefinitely. Copper sulfate, corrosive sublimate, formalin, lime and sulfur, and Bordeaux mixture have been used as dis- infectants and preservatives in the treatment of tree cavities, scars and wounds, and while all of the above- named substances have specific disin- fecting properties it does not neces- sarily follow that they are adapted to wood tissues. The above-named substances pos- sess limited powers of penetration, and have little or no permanent anti- septic value when applied to tree wounds. Coal tar is also objection- able because of its lack of penetrating power, and because it loses its fungi- cidal value as it becomes hard. A thick, nonpenetrating material applied to wood is not only of no value, but becomes an injurious agent, as shown by the treatment of shingles on roofs. The old practice of tarring roofs simply induced decay because the tar coating conserved moisture in the shingles, and decay followed more rapidly than in the untreated shingles. Coal tar, however, is useful in covering surfaces previously treated antiseptically. In fact, the use of creosote followed by coal tar constitutes one of the best scientific treat- ments known, especially for exposed wounds. On the other hand, paint which contains plenty of oil is valuable, as has been proved by long years of experience. It lacks durability however. Shellac dissolved in alcohol and applied to wounds is serviceable for filling the pores of wood and preventing decay, and hence is of some value as a wound dressing. Gas tar and liquid asphaltum are also some- times used to cover wounds, and there are specially prepared paints and other substances for use as wound dressings. Even common painter's oil is excellent for the treatment of wounds, as it prevents checking of FIG. 27. — Inferior mechanical work. Iron band too low for best support, and also causing girdling. SHADE TREES. 167 the wood tissue. As the transpiration current remains practically normal because checking of the wood is prevented, trees will support a large amount of foliage even when badly girdled. Painter's oil is especially suitable for bark wounds. These should be first properly shaped and their surfaces scraped before applying the oil or other substances. Prac- tically all disinfectants injure delicate tissue such as the cambium layer, but it should be borne in mind that the cambium always dies back to a certain extent when exposed to the air, and more of this dying back results from dessication than from the use of antiseptics. All antiseptics must be used with judgment, especially when the vital tissues are likely to be seriously injured by their use. Chaining and Bolting Trees. It often becomes necessary to bolt or chain trees to render them more secure and to prevent injury and disfiguration. As this process is not necessarily always an expensive one it should be much more commonly employed, many valuable trees having been made practically worthless by the loss of large limbs during wind storms, etc. Although the elm is a very tenacious tree with wood that is very difficult to work up into fuel, it is very likely to split. For this reason it is advisable to chain and bolt elms and any other trees which show a tendency to weakness. For an outlay of from S10 to $15 it is often possible to save a tree worth S150 to $200 from destruction. Different devices are employed for strengthening trees. Some of these are objectionable and do more harm than good. It has been a common practice to place chains around limbs to prevent then* split- ting, but as the tree develops the chains become imbedded in the bark, resulting in partial girdling, and ultimately disfiguring and injuring the tree. Another equally objectionable method which invariably results in girdling consists in placing strong bands of iron around limbs and trunks. For making trees more secure some prefer to use an iron rod rather than a chain, and although both have their place, in our estimation the chain system is the better for most purposes. If it is necessary to fasten branches near the point of forking where swaying is limited an iron rod is prefer- able; but for connecting limbs a few feet apart more or less remote from their junction with one another (where swaying is more pronounced) the chain method is superior. A rod is likely to break when the tree is swayed by the wind owing to its rigidity, whereas a chain, which is flexible, will stand the strain better. Moreover, a chain is easier to place than a solid rod, as less attention has to be given to boring the holes. However, if FIG. 28. — Girdling by chain placed around tree. 168 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. one or two links are placed in the rod, as is sometimes done, this dif- ficulty is of course obviated to some extent. Galvanized stranded guy wire or cables, such as are employed by public-service corporations for anchoring their poles, are superior to either chains or rods for holding in place defective limbs and branches, and are far more pleasing to the eye. These wire cables may be obtained in various sizes and are much cheaper and stronger than chains. Their tensile strength varies according to size and quality from a few thousand to several thousand pounds, but the more flexible cables are best suited to this work. A chain is as strong as its weakest link or member, which sometimes may be very weak, whereas a stranded wire cable is much more homogeneous in its con- struction and less likely to break. The strain which it is necessary to overcome in swaying trees is often very great, and we have known many chains to break when the links were composed of three-eighths or five-eighths inch iron. Wire cables and chains are usually used with eyebolts, provided with washer and nuts, but the eyebolt FIG. 29. — Showing com- bination of bolting and banding method which , caused girdling to the often constitutes the weakest tree. feature. It is therefore im- that only the best FIG. 30. — Illustrat- ing the combination banding and bolt- ing method. It is extremely faulty in all respects. portant that only quality of iron be used in the construction of eyebolts. Moreover, work of this nature demands skillful blacksmithing. When stranded cables are used the eyebolt method is sometimes dis- pensed with. In this case the wire passes through a hole in the tree and around an embedded piece of iron. The wire method is also valuable in temporarily rendering safe weak or dangerous limbs, and in anchoring more or less decrepit trees to strong supports. Most of the chaining, bolting, etc., observed in trees follows extremely poor mechanical principles. The chains or bolts are often too small, and are seldom placed advantageously as regards leverage, the majority being placed too low or too near the crotch of the tree, thus requiring too much strain to be overcome. Where large limbs are involved, most eyebolts should be 1 inch in diameter and extend through the tree, these being supplied with a 3 or 4 inch washer and nut. The practice of screwing eyebolts or hooks into a tree for a short distance for the purpose of attach- ing a chain is bad, since they may be pulled out or broken off with the SHADE TREES. 169 slightest strain, and only a bolt passing through the tree, provided with a washer and nut, is suitable for such work. If stranded wire is employed it may pass around an imbedded iron bolt at the back side of the limbs. In any system of strengthening trees, whether by wires or other methods, the best mechanical principles should be em- ployed and a careful estimate made of the amount of load that must be carried; also the proper angle of attachment, etc. The amount of strain to overcome in wiring trees is invariably underestimated, even with an ordinary amount of swaying. During severe tempests hardly any treejs safe, a twisting air movement of great velocity acting as a severe strain. It is always wise to have the chain or wire used far within the limit of safety. Since the limbs or branches of a tree have a tendency FIG. 31. — Iron band around limbs of tree. An objectionable method. to move inwards during cold weather, causing chains and wires to become slack, ah1 wires should be drawn tight at their installa- tion. In many cases of chaining and bolting the washer and nut are placed on the outside of the bark, and often no attempt is made to cut off the ends of the bolts. The unsightliness of this method makes it objectionable. It is better to cover the nut and washer, which may be done by countersinking them into the wood of the tree by means of Ja gauge or extension bit, and the free ends of the bolts should be cut off close to the nuts. The washer and nut should be well imbedded in FIG. 32. — Improper method of chain- ing tree. Dotted lines show more effective method: (6) bolt, (c) chain. All chains, however, too low. 170 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. thick paint or coal tar, and either elastic or Portland cement used to cover them, allowing the cement to come flush with the exterior surface of the wood. By this method the ends of the bolt, washer and nut are covered, and the scar produced by this operation will heal over in a short time, leav- ing no trace.1 The poles of public service corporations are often attached to trees by guy wires, and care should be taken to prevent in- jury to the tree from girdling, etc. A large wire loop placed round a tree and properly in- sulated from the trunk by special hard wood blocks is usually harmless, and is more desirable on streets than other often un- sightly methods of anchoring poles. These blocks may be made from oak, and should be 2 inches wide, 1^ inches thick and 8 or 10 inches long for heavy wires. They should be provided with a shallow groove to take the wire, the groove being made a trifle narrower than the wire to insure a tight fit. (See Fig. 42.) Treating Decayed Cavities, Fillings, etc. Decayed cavities in trees are very undesirable since any fungi and insects which may be present will extend their range of activity, causing decay and shortening the life of the tree. Cavities result from poor pruning of limbs, the breaking off of branches, 1 The weight of a limb may be roughly obtained by multiplying the average diameter by the length. This calculation should include the numerous small branches, limbs, etc. According to Prof. C. S. Sargent (Woods of the United States, 1885), the weight of a cubic foot of elm wood is 40.55 pounds when dried at 100° C., and according to W. S. Clark (32d Kept. Mass. State Board of Agriculture for 1874) the amount of water in elm wood varies from 40 to 60 per cent.; thus a cubic foot of green elm wood would equal about 60 pounds. A limb 40 feet long with an average diameter of 8 inches would weigh about 840 pounds, and a section about 34 inches long would equal 1 cubic foot. Of course the leverage which must be overcome is determined by angles of the limb and point of attachment of the chain or wire. (See Fig. 36.) FIG. 33. — Chain and bolt method of support- ing limbs. FIG. 34. — Tree prop- erly bolted; washer countersunk and im- bedded in cement. SHADE TREES. 171 and other injuries which are not followed by proper treatment at the time. The treatment of cavities naturally involves some expense, but if a tree is of any value it is worth treating, even though its value may be sentimental in nature. There are many trees which to the casual observer would appear to be of little consequence, but the associations connected with them may be highly cherished. Then, again, the location is often important. A tree may furnish shade which cannot be dispensed with, and even if old and decayed it is often more satisfactory to treat it than to wait for a new tree to grow. The rationale underlying the cleaning and filling of cavities is similar to that in dentistry. If the work is properly done, and if antiseptic con- ditions are secured, the length of a tree's life may be extended. For centuries trees have been treated in various ways. Cavities have been filled with wood, brick, stone, cement and other sub- stances, but as a rule much of this earlier work was very crude in nature, and has accomplished little or nothing toward the pre- vention of decay. During the past few years, however, more scientific attention has been given to the treatment of decayed cavities in trees, and many good examples may be seen here and there, although it must be confessed that as yet the work is in more or less of an experimental stage.1 As has been said, the object of treating decayed cavities is to prevent further decay and to prolong the life of the tree; but there is no particular reason why people should spend one or two thousand dollars on a single tree for repair work when it is possible and certainly more reasonable to transplant a larger and better one for two or three hundred dollars. The first step in the treatment of cavities is to remove all decayed and infected tissue, which is done by a thorough cleaning out of the cavity. Second, to treat antiseptically all the exposed tissues which are sus- ceptible to decay, preventing further disintegration. The disinfecting 1 The writer's first attempt to establish a course covering shade-tree management was in 1895 although the research work concerning shade-tree problems antedated this period. At that time there was little material of a reliable nature at hand touching upon the many shade-tree problems which were continually coming up, and it was practically impossible to organize a course of study relative to the subject which would be of any great practical, scientific or pedagogical value. It was, therefore, apparent from the first that an extensive course of study covering this subject, to be of practical value, would require a scientific basis. However, the numerous investigations carried on during recent years relating to shade-tree problems have placed this subject on an entirely different basis, although there is still great opportunity for further research work along these lines. FIG. 35. — Longitudinal section of limb, showing method of bolting. B, bark; X, wood; B, bolt; W, washer; C, cement. 172 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. I7HO substance should be one which can safely be used and still be permanent!}' effective. Creosote is one of the best antiseptics because it possesses superior properties for penetrating wood, and is quite permanent as a disinfectant. In some cavity work this is as far as it is necessary to proceed, especially in the treatment of old, weak, decrepit trees which at most have only a brief period to live, and when there is already considerable strengthening tissue owing to the inward growth of the callus and wood. It is often inadvisable to remove this strengthening tissue and fill the cavity. (See Fig. 43.) Third, to cover the orifice or opening of the cavity to direct the growth of the callus or healing tissue. However, trees are seldom if ever strength- ened by fillings; on the other hand, they are too often weakened by overloading, although ulti- mately, as new tissue develops over the surface of the filling, strengthening may follow as a result of growth. Innumerable instances may be observed of positively injurious tree repair work which has been done by incompetent men, some of whom are downright scoundrels; and many trees have come to a sad end from overloading with heavy concrete. Sometimes the tree collapses before the contractor actually finishes the work, in which case litigation usually follows. The writer has had many opportunities to observe cavity work in trees. Some of these cavities were treated forty years ago, and when thorough cleaning and antiseptic treatment were given the cav- ities, decay has been arrested to a very remarkable extent. Even some of the work done by ignorant men and am- ateurs, who are unable to distinguish between normal and infected wood, has been effective in arresting decay, although only the punk and discolored tissue is usually removed from the cavities. While some progress has been made in cavity treatment during recent years, the greatest drawback to the de- velopment of a more scientific and intelligent method of treatment is ignorance and incompetency on the part of those undertaking such FIG. 36. — Showing relative strain in pounds on wire or chain holding limbs at different angles. The strain at x would be twice as much as at a. FIG. 37. — Illustrating a faulty method of chaining trees. SHADE TREES. 173 work. The use of worthless disinfectants, the improper shaping of the cavity opening, and many other wrong methods show a total disregard for the first principles of scientific treatment and for common sense. It is unfortunate that so many have undertaken to do tree repair work with- FIG. 33. — Showing cross-section illustrating the eyebolt and the stranded wire method of attachment. (Compare Fig. 39.) out adequate training or special aptitude for it. There are innumerable so-called "tree experts," "tree specialists," etc., whose whole experience consists in having filled one or two tree cavities. They possess little or no knowledge of trees or tree problems. Too much stress is also laid on the external appearance and smoothness of their cavity work. They seemingly fail to realize that the scientific treatment of a wound or cavity is fully as important as its appearance when done. The principal advance in cav- ity work has consisted, in more thorough cleaning and more effective antiseptic treatment, and some improvement has been made in the technique of cement work. However, these innova- tions are of minor importance, considering the extent of the work done and the opportunities offered for improvement in the scientific and rational treatment of cavities. Methods of treating Cavities. - The greatest need in tree cavity work at the present time is more suitable material and improvement in methods of doing the work. There is no reason why a cavity should be filled, — in fact, there are reasons why it should not. The principal problems as- sociated with cavity work are those involving the eliminating of fillings of all descriptions. A durable material with physical properties similar to those of the tree to direct the callus growth must also be found. There are several methods for the treatment of cavities, some of which were^first used years ago. Brick and stone laid in cement have been used FIG. 39. — Illustrating eyebolt and stranded wire method of attachment. 174 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. as a filling to cover the cavity opening, and some years ago use wasmade of irregular pieces of untreated wood for filling cavities. However, cement in different forms has been most frequently employed for cavity fillings, and various metals have been used as a covering for the cavity opening, Use has also been made of wire mesh covered with elastic cement; com- binations of asphalt and sawdust; paraffine and sawdust; wood pulp and cement; excelsior and asphalt; sawdust, tar and oakum; certain com- posite substances like papier-mache*; special floor cements; and chemically treated wooden blocks. FIG. 40. — Different methods of fastening branches. The solid lines represent the best method; dotted lines inferior methods. Various disinfectants, such as copper sulfate, corrosive sublimate, Bordeaux mixture, kerosene, formalin, carbolineum, coal tar, creosote, etc., have been employed for cavity work, but some of them are poorly adapted for the purpose. Creosote and carbolineum are similar in nature, and are the best materials for disinfecting cavities. The former apparently possesses greater power of penetration than the latter, although carbolineum seems to form a more permanent external covering than creosote. (See Fig. 26.) Owing to the slow penetration of all dis- infectants into moist wood, more than one treatment is needed, and if the cavity is left open for a while before receiving later treatments, so much the better. Although there have been complaints that creosote injures trees, we have never observed any such injury, notwithstanding the fact that we have treated cavities within 1 inch of the vital area. In all instances SHADE TREES. 175 observed, where injury was reported from the use of this substance, the pathological conditions were due to other causes, and were present pre- vious to the time of the repair work. The expense involved in the different methods of treating cavities varies considerably, and it is not well to increase it unnecessarily. How- ever, if a tree is worth treating the work should be done well, and the more costly methods need not be condemned if they achieve superior results. Before an attempt is made to repair a tree a thorough examination should be made, but this is seldom done. Often a consider- able portion of a tree above and below the ground may be dead without the fact being noticeable to the casual observer. A careful examination would reveal the fact that the tree is not worth expen- FIG- •*!. — Bolt passing through a tree with , , , large square washer. A smaller round one, represented by the white circle, is a more Shaping the Cavity. — The shape desirable form to use. of the cavity interior is determined largely by the necessary removal of the decayed material. As the decay of the heartwood is usually more extensive than that of the sapwood, the interior dimensions of a cavity are usually greater than those of the orifice or opening. A shoulder is thus formed, and this is of great ad- vantage when cement and other substances are used in filling. In cases FIG. 42. — Least objectionable method of anchoring guy wires to trees. where there is no shoulder, spikes may be driven into the wood or iron bolts used, or grooves in the wood may be chiseled out to anchor the filling substance more thoroughly and to prevent its dislocation. But the shaping of the cavity opening or orifice is most important, the main object in filling a cavity or covering its opening being to direct the callus 176 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. or healing tissue. It is therefore essential that the shape of the cavity opening conform to the path of the translocated plastic substances of the tree. These are confined to the phloem, or inner bark. The sides of the cavity opening should, in a general way, conform; and the less the irregularity of the edges of the opening the better. If the cavity is above the surface of the ground the apex and base of the opening should never be truncated or flattened, but should be apiculate or pointed. There is no particular objection, how- ever, to having the opening of the cavity per- fectly square or rectangular if the bark is re- moved above and below the opening and brought to a pointed or rounded termination. (See Fig. 49.) This allows the healing tissue to form reg- ularly and uniformly over the outside of the cavity. This also holds true in the treatment of scars and abrasions on trees. After removing the bark the wood should be scraped and treated as with any wound. Concrete Fillings. — Concrete has been used more largely than any other substance for fill- ing cavities in trees, but its physical properties are so unlike those of wood that it has never been regarded by competent authorities as a suitable material for work of this nature. By some workers its use has only been tolerated until something better could be substituted. Some of the numerous objections to be raised against filling cavities with cement are as follows: — FIG. 43. — Demonstrating the object of treating cavities. Upper figure shows cavity of long standing, with callus curved in, which, if it had been treated, would be as repre- sented below. FIG. 44. — Cross-section of filled cavity showing one method of treatment. B, bark; Y, sapwood; M, medullary rays; H.heartwood; A, annual rings, G, grouting; S, cement surface covering; W, wire re-enforcement; E, elastic cement. Inferior to the dry cement methods now used. SHADE TREES. 177 (a) Cement cannot accommodate itself to the constant swaying move- ments of trees. As a consequence the fillings are likely to become dis- placed and crack, although this is not so often the case with fillings low in the tree. This unavoidable cracking of the cement renders it extremely unsuitable for use in cavities. (6) Cement upon drying shrinks from the wood, furnishing an entrance for water, frost and injurious organisms which may cause damage if the conditions are favorable. (c) It is practically impossible to stop bleeding from a cavity that has been filled with cement. This exudating sap or "slimeflux," which is FIG. 45. — Cross-section of split tree with bolt and countersunk nuts and washers and iron braces to obviate movement. Instead of cement, wooden blocks should be employed to cover the opening of the cavity. not uncommon in trees, discolors the bark and in some cases injures the underlying tissue. (d) There is nothing to be gained from filling a tree cavity with cement or any material. The chief object of filling is to protect the healing tissue or callus of the tree after the cavity has been thoroughly cleaned and dis- infected, and this can be accomplished by other methods. (e) Cement does not in any case strengthen the tree; on the contrary, it often proves weakening because of its cumbersome and quite unneces- sary weight. It is not adapted to horizontal cavities, which are difficult to seal sufficiently to prevent trouble from water, etc. (/) The several schemes devised to increase the efficiency of cement fillings, such as re-enforcing with iron, wire, etc., covering the cement 178 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. FIG. 46. — Cement-filled cavity favorably shaped for healing over. surface with metal, the use of elastic material and special grooves, laying the cement in sections, and many others, have not proved of any material value in solving the problem. (0) The tissues back of a cavity are rendered more susceptible to decay by the cement filling. This is especially true if proper antiseptic treatment is not given, or if the cavity is not thoroughly cleaned. From the various objections given it follows that it is often better to leave the cavity open, or merely to cover the same, than to fill with cement. Several methods have been employed for the use of cement, and a detailed description of all of them is hardly worth while. It has been extensively employed as a filling, and also as a covering for the cavity opening, in which case the main cavity itself would be left unfilled. In most of the older work in filling cavities with cement the opening of the cavity was boarded, up and grouting of a more or less soft consistency, consisting of 1 part cement to 5 or S of sand, gravel or other material, was poured in. When this was partially set the boards were removed and the surface of the grouting was coated with about 1 part cement to 2 parts sand, this extending to the outer edges of the wood and conform- ing to the general contour of the tree. In other cases cement in the proportion of 1 part to 2 or 3 parts of sand has been used in a relatively dry form, applied in small quantities, and thoroughly tamped. This method does not require the use of boards at the cavity opening, as the cement, which is uniform throughout, is gradually built up until the filling process is com- pleted. The outer surface conforms to the general contour of the tree. The use of relatively dry cement has proved more desirable for cavity work than grouting, followed by a surface covering of a different consistency, and has done away with considerable of the cracking and dislodgment of cement which followed surface covering over grouting. In cavity work of all kinds where cement is used, nails, spikes, wires, iron rods and bolts, wire mesh, FIG. 47. — Cement-filled cavity with bolt. SHADE TREES. 179 etc., have been used freely in numerous ways for re-enforcing. When the cavity has no " shoulders" to hold the cement in place, spikes driven into the wood are effective in anchoring the cement, and we have observed such fillings to remain undisturbed for many years. Any filling substance or covering of a cavity should always come flush with the exterior of the wood. For this purpose it is best to cut the bark back as little as possible to expose the edge of the wood to view. Special grooves cut in the wood of the cavity just anterior to the outer edge of the wood have been used with the idea of directing the flow of surface water which may enter the cavity, or that arising from the interior caused by bleeding, but these grooves have not proved of practical value. A V-shaped groove cut in the edges of the cement before hardening, filled with elastic cement to prevent water from entering, is some- times used. As there is always more or less separation of the cement from the wood after setting or hardening use has been made of thick elastic substances to cover the surface of the cavity to make the contact more complete. Sectional Concrete Fillings, — The writer first experimented with sectional concrete fillings in 1902 and 1903, and has at dif- ferent times since suggested this method of filling cavities to those seeking to avoid cracking of the cement where considerable movement exists. In our original experi- ments the. cement was laid in sections, each section being allowed to become set or hardened before another was put on. The sections were further separated from one another by the use of such substances as cardboard or tarred paper, fiberoid, elastic cement or wire mesh. Our idea in de- veloping the use of sectional work was to eliminate cracking of the cement which so commonly follows the use of this substance, and the purpose of using more or less elastic substances between the sections was to form a bed for each section or independent unit to move upon dur- ing swaying without causing chipping of the edges of the sectional blocks. The sectional method of filling has been employed quite extensively within the last six years, and at present it constitutes the best method of employing concrete cement in tree cavities. In some of this work the sections are bolted to the tree, thus restricting independent movement to a certain extent by anchoring the sections. In consequence of this anchoring the sections load the tree with weight, FIG. 48. — Stump growth of white oak with cavity cleaned and treated with creosote and filled with cement. Edge of cavity effectively sealed with elastic cement. 180 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. whereas in basal cavities if not anchored they would not, and with the use of entirely independent sections the movements of cement would be slightly different. The first to use sectional concrete in tree cavities with bolted sections was probably the late city forester W. F. Gale of Springfield, about 1906. Mr. Gale employed two cross bolts to each section, the sections being about 20 inches* long and separated in part by wire mesh. After the cement had sufficiently hardened the bolts were tightened to separate the sections or indivilual units still further. At the present time tarred paper is usually employed between sections, but where there is much movement this substance is hardly thick enough, especially on the outer edges, to prevent cnipping. We had this feature in mind in our original FIG. 49. — Showing a square cavity filled with cement. D, disintegrated bark above and below the filling; E, general path of plas- tic or healing substances; F, bark cut to point to accommodate the process of heal- ing and conforming with the path of heal- ing substances. sectional work. With the judicious use of iron bolts (which should in our opinion be independent of the sections) in order to secure rigidity, the sectional cement method has proved superior to the older methods of filling cavities, since it has done away with much miscellaneous cracking and dislodgment of fillings. Much improvement in the quality of the cement work done on trees has been made within the last few years, especially in cement technique, and some of the Portland cement surface in cavities is excellent. A great deal of puttering and detail work such as thorough tamping and troweling of the cement is often done in tree cavity work, especially when the contract is for work by the hour. Thorough tamping and troweling improve the cement, and as a result of this frequent time- killing process practiced by certain unscrupulous workers some of the best individual examples of cement technique may be found in trees. While the sectional method of filling cavities with cement has caused SHADE TREES. 181 some advance in cavity cement work, it does not solve the problem of treating cavities. In many cases of sectional work it is an absolute fail- ure. This is true especially when there is too much swaying or when the tree cannot stand the load, or when there is too much crushing force, as in narrow cavities. All concrete work on trees is better adapted to cav- ities located near the ground or below the sur- face than to high cavities where swaying constitutes an important factor, and where an increase in the load which a tree is obliged to carry is ob- jectionable. Concrete Coverings for the Cavity Opening. — • Concrete may be used to advantage as a covering for cavity openings to form a surface for direct- ing the healing tissue. With this method the interior of the cavity is left unfilled, and if the cement is properly re- enforced with iron the scheme is practicable and possesses many advan- tages. The writer has treated some large cav- ities by this method, and it has proved as satisfactory as solid fillings. Considerable cement is also saved. (See Figs. 51 and 52.) Metal Coverings. — Metal was much used formerly, and is to some extent to-day, to cover the openings of cavities, and some very creditable work has been done in this line. For this purpose tin or zinc is cut and shaped to meet the requirements of the cavity opening, and after some of the bark has been cut away the metal is securely fastened to the sap wood with tacks. With this method of treating cavities the usual clean- ing and disinfecting are done, but the cavity itself is left unfilled. The principle underlying this method is good, but metal has not proved a durable covering, nor are its physical properties suitable to work of this nature. It is affected too greatly by changes in temperature, which FIG. 50. — Concrete filling built in sections. fFrom "Tree Talk.") 182 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. FIG. 61. — Chestnut tree cavity resulting from stump growth, with cavity covering of cement about 6 inches thick. (See Fig- 52.) has a tendency to displace the tacks; consequently the metal covering becomes loose and valueless in a short time. Metal is inclined to deteri- orate in a few years, and cannot accommodate itself to much movement in the tree unless it is used in sections and imbricated or overlapped like shingles. Sometimes metal is used to cover cement-filled cavities, but this is of no particular value, and does not improve the appearance of the tree. The principal pur- pose in using it over cement is to cover the cracks, and when used in connection wjth iron bands over the surface it is supposed to help hold the cement in place. In some cases where metal is used in this way it is lapped over on the bark 4 or 5 inches, but this destroys the underlying tissues and arrests their future develop- ment, thus defeating one of the main objects of treating cavities, — i.e., encouraging and directing the healing tissue or callus formation. Elastic Cement. — Elastic cement, such as is employed by slaters, has been used for some years in tree repair work, and Was recommended for this pur- pose by the Massachusetts Forestry Associ- ation about 1900. Its principal value in tree repair work consists in its elastic properties and its adaptability to places where there is considerable movement. It is too expensive for use in large cavities, costing from 4 to 15 cents per pound, but it has been employed to some extent for filling small spaces and also as a thin covering for cavity openings. In the latter case wire mesh is strung across the cavity FIG> 52. - illustrating cross-sec- opening, the wire mesh being re-enforced tion of the cement surface with iron and shaped to conform to the outer contour of the tree; and the elastic cement is plastered on the mesh. (See Figs. 54 and 55.) This method of treating cavities has been especially recommended by Mr. L. F. Prouty, associated with the city forestry department, Spring- covering to cavity shown in Fig. 51. W, wire stapled to sides of cavity; I, iron re-en- forcing; C, cement. SHADE TREES. 183 field, Mass., who has made quite a little use of elastic cement for cavity work. One of the drawbacks in the use of this substance for tree work is that it does not harden suffi- ciently, the surface easily becoming disfigured. On the other hand, it is valuable for cavities in high swaying trunks and limbs of trees, and especially for cavities with horizontal openings. Wood pulp with a thin facing of Portland cement has also been em- ployed for covering the openings of cavities. Asphalt Fillings. — During the last twenty years numerous at- tempts have been made to use asphalt in tree repair work, and more recently it has been employed in combination with other sub- stances. Asphalt and sawdust have been used for cavity work by Mr. John Boddv,1 city forester of ™ , i /\«. ' -n -x- • FIG. 53. — Cavity in apple tree cleaned out, Cleveland, Ohio. For cavities in treated a ntiseptically, and surf ace covered swaying branches he uses 1 part with tin. FIG. 54. — Elastic cement covering of cavity opening. Wire mesh only supports the thin covering of cement. (After L. F. Prouty.) asphalt to 3 or 4 parts sawrdust, and for other cavities 1 part asphalt to 5 or 6 parts sawdust. The sawrdust is stirred into the hot asphaltum until the desired con- sistency is obtained, and the mixture while still hot is put into the cavities with tools smeared with crude oil. Mr. Boddy recommends a grade of asphaltum termed "Byerlyte" as best suited for this purpose. This is derived from refining petroleum with an asphaltum basis, and is the same as that used on street pavements. The mixture of asphaltum and sawdust is better adapted physically to the move- ments of the trees than the more rigid Portland cement. i Ohio Agr. Exp. Sta. June 11, 1915. Cir. No. 150, 184 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. FIG. 55. — Section of tree with cavity illustrating wire and elastic cement method of covering opening. C, elastic cement; W, wire mesh; I, iron re-enforcements. Another method of treating tree cavities with the use of asphalt has been devised and described by Elbert Peets. This consists of using brickets or units composed of asphaHum and excel- sior. These brickets are employed as a covering to the outer surface of the cavity, and are cemented together with asphaltum. The brickets are secured to the side of the cavity opening by spikes, a^nd are held in place by iron re-enforcements, the portion of the cavity back of the brickets being filled with sawdust, cinders or other material. An especially commendable feature of this method is the unit system employed, and the adaptability of the material to the move- ments of trees. On the other hand, asphal- tum is not a convenient substance to use because it has to be heated. The same objec- tions to completely filling a cavity apply also to asphaltum, although with the use of this material such a practice may not always be necessary. Wooden Block Method. — This method of seal- ing cavities (invented by the writer) has been in use only recently. It consists in the use of chem- ically treated wooden blocks to cover the open- ing of the cavities, and makes filling unnecessary. The blocks are of different sizes. Each one constitutes a homogeneous structural unit com- posed of various cellular elements, similar to those in trees. With this method, as in others, the cavities are cleaned and treated antiseptically, the blocks being used simply to cover the orifice of the cavity and to direct the growth of the callus or healing tissue. The advantage of wooden blocks for cavity work consists in the fact that the blocks are composed of the same type of element as found in trees. The geometrical arrangement of the various elements, as well as their chemical com- position and molecular structure, is similar; moreover, the physical properties — rigidity, elasticity, etc. — are practically identical. The various movements in the cavities of trees re- sulting from variation in temperature, moisture, barometrical influence, etc., may be better conformed to by the use of this material than by any other yet employed for the cavity treatment. FIG. 56. — Chemically treated wooden block covering of cavity open- ing, with back re-en- forcements of wood. The normal growth of the callus is not dis- turbed. (After J. A. Davis, City Forester, Springfield.) SHADE TREES. 185 The blocks should be arranged in the cavity opening so that the radial and tangential surfaces of the structural elements in the blocks coin- cide in general with those in the tree. It is not necessary to lay the blocks in cement, but in some cases painting the surfaces which will come into contact with one another with an elastic cement is of advantage. The blocks are fastened to the tree by means of special iron braces and held securely by iron re-enforcements. Besides being especially adapted, owing to their physical properties, to use in trees, such blocks are durable, light and easy to fit, and are better adapted to swaying movements and crushing pressure found in narrow cavities than rigid or less plastic substances such as have been used heretofore. The disagreeable and injurious effects arising from bleeding may be taken care of by this method of cavity treatment, and con- structive work may be done in winter as well as in summer. TREE GUARDS. There is almost no end to the types of tree guards used to protect trees. Some of these are good and others are of little value. The purpose of a FIG. 57. — Cross-section of illustration shown in Fig. 56. C, cavity; B, chemi- cally treated blocks; I, iron re-enforcement in grooves; X, longitudinal section of blocks. FIG. 58. — Different types of tree guards: 1, wooden strips nailed to a tree; 2, wooden strips nailed to a tree and banded with iron; 3, old type of wooden tree guard; 4, wooden strips banded with iron tightly to the trunk of the tree; 5, similar to 4: all objectionable types. tree guard is protection, and the guard should cover the tree to a height of about &5 feet; it should be as light and as inconspicuous as is con- sistent with strength and protection; and should allow the tree ample 186 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. opportunity for growth without causing injury. The ideal tree guard is durable, easily placed and not easily displaced, inexpensive and neat in appearance. Some tree guards are attached to trees by means of staples or nails, but this method of attachment is objectionable. The old-fashioned tree guard made of wood usually became useless in a few years. However, while it may not have possessed much beauty or per- manent utility, it at least showed a commendable spirit and desire for tree protection. A very cheap and efficient tree guard is used to quite an extent in some places, and is known as the " Clinton Tree Guard." This guard is made of No. 15 galvanized wire, having a mesh three-fourths inch in diameter, all the wire contacts being soldered. This wire may be bought in strips of various widths from 12 to 48 inches, and cut off any length desired, 6 and 6^ feet being the more-usual lengths. Strips 12 to 18 inches wide are well suited for small trees. These are rolled up in cylindrical form of the desired diameter, and tied together by a few pieces of copper wire. To prevent the top of the tree guard from chafing the tree the top is protected by wiring through the rough edges of the guard a split piece of dis- carded rubber hose. Use is also made of in- sulated wires or springs placed diagonally through the top of the guard to hold it away from the tree. The great advantage of this guard is its cheapness, but it is made of heavy wire firmly woven, and answers the requirements very well. This wire is made by the Clinton Wire Company, Clinton, Mass., and costs about 4| cents per square foot. (See Fig. 60.) A re-enforced wire cloth guard manu- factured by the Wright Wire Company, Worcester, Mass., has recently come into use. It is made from close mesh wire similar to that of the Clinton guard, but is re-enforced with flat metal strips. This re-enforcement is considered a valuable innovation because even heavy wire mesh is likely to crumple up with hard usage, and becomes ineffective as a tree guard. The re-enforced metal edges are provided with holes for the purpose of stapling the guard to large trees. (See Fig. 61.) One of the neatest and most durable tree guards is shown in Fig. 59. It consists of an open-mesh, heavy-wired guard supported by a piece of angle iron on either side driven into the ground. The angle iron acts as a re-enforce- Fio. 59. — Effectual tree guard used on Boston Com- mon. The wire guard is re -en forced by pointed angle irons driven into the ground. SHADE TREES. 187 nient and holds the guard in place. The use of any guard around trees is more or less of a nuisance, but at the present time they have to be applied to street trees. Planting inside of the sidewalk or on wide tree belts will obviate much of the use of tree guards in the future. FERTILIZING TREES. Trees, like agricultural crops, respond to tillage and treatment with fertilizers and manures, but there are only meager data relative to the specific effects of the various chemical constituents in fertilizers on shade trees. From what is known regarding their effects on other crops, and from their limited use on trees and shrubs, it is evident that they may be applied with a reasonable degree of success. Wood ashes have been used to some extent for treating shade trees, also bone meal, nitrate of soda and potash in the form of muriate or sulfate. Any good complete fer- tilizers, such as those adapted to lawns, should prove valuable for trees. Wood ashes, which are not so easily obtained as formerly, are of benefit to lawns, and there is no reason why they should not prove suitable for trees. A certain amount of nitrate of soda, at the rate of 150 to 200 pounds per acre, may be used to good advantage, but care should always be used not to apply it too freely. The nitrate of soda stimulates wood production, and, like lime, helps to give a deeper color to the foliage; but an excess produces symptoms of malnutrition hi many crops which usually takes the form of an abnormal development of foliage. Bone meal is slow to become available, but it does not injure plants when applied freely, and makes a good fertilizer. Pulverized sheep and cow manure are valuable lawn fertilizers, and even though the price is rather high for the plant food contained, they supply organic matter and therefore have an especially beneficial effect on the soil. They can be applied freely without danger of harm. While trees will respond favorably to judicious treatment with fertilizers, it must be borne in mind that no fertilizer can take the place of cul- tivation. Fertilizers should be applied wrhere the feeding roots are located, and these are confined largely to an area corresponding with the spread of the foliage and not close to the trunk of the tree, as imagined by many persons. This also holds true for tillage, i.e., the whole area surrounding the tree should be cultivated to some distance beyond the spread of the foliage. As the tree develops in size the smaller feeding roots become less abundant near the base of the tree, although cultivation and feeding have a marked tendency to induce root development wherever they are IG. 60. — Clin- ton tree guard, with hose pro- tection at top. 188 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. practiced. All fertilizers should be applied evenly. Spreading by hand is at best a poor method, as shown by the dark green plots of grass on lawns where nitrate of soda has been applied in this way; but when fertilizer spreaders cannot be had the hand method must be used. Another factor to be considered when applying fertilizers to lawn trees is that the grass roots will obtain their full share. Turning under the sod and cul- tivation of the soil around the tree is of the greatest importance from the very considerable amounts of organic matter added to the soil. Fertilizers applied under these conditions, or, far better, stable manure well incorporated into the soil at the rate of 20 to 30 cords per acre, are of the greatest benefit to the tree, even if it becomes necessary to reseed immediately. In cases where it is incon- venient or undesirable to disturb the soil around a tree, and when the applica- tion of fertilizer to the surface does not accomplish the desired results, holes 1 or 2 feet apart and 15 inches deep may be made with an iron bar and then filled at different times with a liquid fertilizer. There are a number of fertilizer mix- tures prepared for shade trees that are undoubtedly of value, but some of them are apparently not based on any expert knowledge of the tree's special require- ments. FIG. 61. — Re-enforced wire cloth tree guard, showing edge stiffen- ing with nail holes for attaching to tree. (From the Wright Wire Company.) DISEASES OF TREES. Trees, like other living organisms, are very liable to attacks from disease, and a tree of any maturity is seldom found perfect in all respects. A disease may be denned as a disorder caused by any failure in or diversion of the normal physiological activities of the organism. The diseases of plants with which plant pathologists have to deal may be divided into three classes: First, those caused by parasitic fungi; examples, — rust, smut, etc. Second, those brought about by functional irregularities which induce saprophytes (dead wood fungi) or parasites to thrive, such as " damping off," mildew, etc. Third, those of a purely functional nature, pathogenic organisms not necessarily being present; examples, — dropsy or cedema of tomatoes, malnutrition and others. All these types of diseases are found in trees, but the first and second are most common. SHADE TREES. 189 Diagnosis of Disease. A successful diagnosis of disease necessitates a thorough knowledge of the normal and abnormal functions of the organism, together with an understanding of the specific reactions of the plant to various external and internal agencies or stimuli that may affect it. The specific reactions of plants are so little understood as compared with those of animals which have been studied for centuries that it often requires considerable study to make a complete and accurate diagnosis of some of the troubles affect- ing plants, especially without knowledge of the conditions to which they have been subject. Plants have their peculiarities, like animals, and the large number of different species which are normally adapted to a great variety of conditions and which are likely to be subject to disease renders the problem of diagnosis often quite diffi- cult. The reactions of plants to stimuli are manifold, and much more depends upon the nature of the organisms stimulated, as regards the nature of the response, than upon the particular stimuli giving rise to the reaction. The same agency may produce a variety of reactions even in the same organism, and different agencies will often produce like effects. It might be difficult to tell whether a particular plant was affected by coal gas, hydrocyanic acid gas, burned sulfur, for- malin vapor, or other gases without other evidence than that afforded by the plant, unless the observer possessed a special knowledge of the effect of these gases. But there are distinct symptoms displayed by plants which enable one, after much experience and careful investigation, to de- termine with some degree of accuracy the exact cause of injury resulting from injurious agencies. In diagnosing diseases it is first necessary to distinguish between primary and secondary causes. A tree may be subject to borers and fungi, but these may not be the primary cause of the trouble; indeed, they are more often merely secondary effects. A tree may sometimes winterkill and become subject to fungi, but one would not be justified in diagnosing the case as injury from fungi, although in the diagnosis of disease secondary causes are often mistaken for primary ones. It should be borne in mind, however, that no plant ever dies without some definite cause. In deter- FIG. 62. — Open mesh tree guard with protective springs at top. (From the Wright Wire Com- pany.) 190 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. mining the health condition of a tree it is important that all the factors in any way concerning it should be well understood; in other words, one should be able to judge of the degree of vigor possessed by the tree. A tree in a vigorous condition has a quite different appearance from one that is less thrifty. In the former case the bark has a certain color and other characteristics by which it is easily distinguished from those in a less healthy tree. This is also true of the branches, twigs and leaves as well as of the general habit of growth. Finally, in all tree work it is essential that as thorough knowledge as possible should be secured of the structure and function of the tree, its normal and abnormal characteristics, and the causes responsible for health and disease. As a rule, tree workers have little idea of tree structure and function; consequently their diagnoses are seldom correct. Fungous Diseases of Trees. There are troubles of a serious nature affecting trees which are not associated with organisms; but by far the most numerous and trouble- some diseases are caused by fungi, and occasionally by other types of organisms. The fungi responsible for decayed cavities do the most damage to trees. There are a great number of leaf spots — Septoria, Cercospora, Phyl- losticta and other genera — which affect both our native and introduced trees and shrubs, and mildews are found on almost every tree and shrub. Much careful investigation has been given to the control of plant diseases in general, and valuable results have been obtained from spraying and other methods of treatment. (See Treatment.) The fungous diseases of our agricultural crops have been thoroughly studied, and most of them are of enough importance to warrant systematic treatment every year; but a large number of the leaf spots affecting shade trees are not common enough to do any particular harm, and at least during the past many of them have not been considered worth serious study from the viewpoint of treatment. Most of the fungi affecting leaves and branches are parasitic; a few are saprophytic, i.e., attacking only dead tissue; while still other forms flourish either as parasites or saprophytes. The root-like mycelia of parasites in most cases penetrate the cells and rob them of nutriment. Often fungi cause distortion of the tissues so that galls and other abnormal growths are formed. They also have acquired the peculiar habit of secreting ferments that dissolve the cell walls. All fungi are capable of producing some injury, but economically considered, treatment is neces- sary only when the injury greatly retards the growth of the tree or seriously impairs its appearance. Among some of the commoner forms of fungi that affect shade trees may be mentioned the following: — SHADE TREES. 191 FIG. 63.— Oyster mush- room (I'leurotus anpidu*} on maple, following injury. MAPLE (Acer). — Leaf spot (PhyUosticta acericola C. & E.) forms irregular brownish .spots on the leaves of the rock and white maples. Anthracnose (Glarosporium apocryptum E. & E.) is known to cause serious in- jury to the leaves and shoots of the box elder. and maple. Leaf spot (Rhytisma acerinum Fr.) is characterized by conspicuous black spots on the leaves of the red and white maples, but is practically harmless. Xectria cinnabar ina (Tode) Fr., a common fungus char- acterized by small cinnamon-colored pustules occurring on dead wood, follows winterkilling, sun scald, etc. It is especially noticeable on winterkilled twigs of Norway maples. Oyster mushroom (Pleurotus sapidus Fr.) is a large, edible fungus growing in masses on maples that have been injured by borers and other agencies. A mildew (Uncinula circinata E. & E.) sometimes infects the leaves of various maples. Sun scald and frost cracks are not uncommon on maples. The rock maple is one of the most susceptible trees to sun scorch and "bronzing" of foliage induced by excessive transpiration during dry periods. The red maple is susceptible to winter injury of roots, and like the rock maple suffers from drought. HORSE-CHESTNUT (JSscu-lus). — Leaf spot (PhyUosticta sphceropsoidea E. & E.) appears in the early summer, and later causes a conspicuous yellow spotting of the foliage. This disease is more or less common every year. The leaves of the horse-chestnut are occasionally affected with mildew (Uncinula flexuosa Pk.), and the winterkilled twigs are sometimes attacked by Xectria cinnabarina. CHESTNUT (Castanea). — This is seldom planted as a shade tree, although it is some- times seen on country roadsides and on lawns. The chestnut blight, which is so serious and so universally distributed at the present tune, renders the use of the species as an ornamental tree out of the question. The chestnut is also affected with certain leaf spots, etc. AMORE (Platanus). — The tree most likely to be severely defoliated by a fungus is the sycamore. The causal organism is Gloeosporiurn -cquum (Fckl.) Sacc., which affects the petioles and veins of the leaves, causing small black areas on these organs. More or less large portions of the leaves turn brown and the leaf finally falls. The sycamore is unusually susceptible to winterkilling of the twigs, but in spite of this :int defoliation and twig killing it is a very hardy tree. POPLAR (Populus). — The principal species in cultivation as shade trees are the Carolina poplar, white poplar, Italian poplar and the Lombardy poplar. The Italian poplar is often severely affected with rust (Mdampsora populina (Jacq.) Lev.), and a mildew (Uncinula salicis DC. Wint.) is frequently observed on the leaves of poplars. Anthracnose (Marssonia populi FIG. 64. — Horse-chestnut leaf spot (1'hyllosticta). 192 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. FIG. 65A. — Italian poplars affected with rust (Melampsora populina (Jacq.) Lev.). Unsprayed. (After Maynard.) SHADE TREES. 193 FIG. 6oB. — Italian poplars affected with rust (Melampsorn populina (Jacq.) Lev.). Sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. (After Maynard.) 194 MASS. EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 170. Sacc) which attacks the twigs, has been known to cause great injury o any poplaTs Poplars are often affected by crown gall and various other dl ^(Quercus). - The oaks are affected by a number of diseases such as Septoria ' u Cite wh ch produces a leaf spot, and by several mildews, e.g., Phyttactinid M Reb. A^erL intricate E. A M. and Asterina patelloides E. « , M 'Micro. sphcrra auercina (S.) Burr. The fungus Glvosporiurn ™«uum (Fckl. Sacc which also affects the sycamore, is sometimes found on oaks affecting the 1 >etioles and veins, causing a browning, and, in severe cases, a loss of the foliage. It s most common on the leaves of the shaded branches. (Tode) Fr also affects the oak. Oak "spangles," little saucer-shaped bodies on the leaves which resemble the work of fungi, is caused by insects. HICKOBY (Can/a). -Two or more leaf spots are found on the hickory e.g., Microstroma juglandis Sacc. and Phyllosticta caryce Pk. Some seasons hickory leaves are quite badly spotted. BUTTERNUT (Juglans). — Butternuts are affected by the following leaf spots: Ascochyta juglandis Bolish, which is more or less common; Cercospora juglandis K. & Sw., Glccosporium juglandis (Lib.) Mont., Marssonia juglandis (Lib.) Sacc. The butter- nut has suffered greatly from climatic conditions in the past decade. TULIP TREE (Liriodendron) . — The leaves of the tulip tree are sometimes badly spotted by insect work which is often accompanied by fungi. SWEET GUM (Liquidambar) . — The sweet gum is affected by a leaf spot (Septoria liquidambaris Cke. & E.) and is susceptible to winter injury in the north. MAGNOLIA. — The magnolia is affected by an anthracnose (Colletotrichum spinacice E. & H.) which FIG. 66. — Armlllaria mellea ruins the smaller branches and foliage of the tree. on roots of maple. Mildew (Asterina picea B. & C. and Asterina comata B. & Rav.) is also found on the leaves. PINE (Pinus) . — The white pine during the past ten years has been affected by a root killing, which has been responsible for the burning of the leaf tips (sun scorch). Various fungi, such as Septoria parasitica Hartig, and H endersonia folii- cola Berk., have been associated with this trouble, but both are apparently sapro- phytes. The terminal twigs of the white pine are occasionally affected with Phoma Harknessii Sacc., which causes the death of both the leaves and twigs. Scorias spongiosa Schw. forms black incrustations on the leaves and twigs of the white pine in the secretions of the woolly aphis. Rust (Coleosporium pini) sometimes occurs on the leaves of the pitch pine. CATALPA. — The catalpa is affected with the leaf spots Phyllosticta catalpce E. & M., Cercospora catalpce Wint., Macrosporium catalpce E. & E., also with mildew (Microsphcera elevata Burr, and Phyllactinia suffulta Reb.). A blight disease is recorded which causes the leaves to turn black, shrivel and fall. This is said to be caused by insect larva*. Two wood-destroying fungi, e.g., Polyponis versicolor (L.) Fr. and Polyporus (Poria) catalpce are found on the catalpa. HACKBERRY (Celtis). — The hackberry is occasionally planted as a shade tree, and is affected by two mildews (Uncinula polychccta B. & C. and Sphccrotheca phytoptophyla K. & S.) which are associated with a mite (Phytoptus) in producing distortion of the leaves. Phleospora celtidis E. & M., Phyllosticta celtidis E. & K., Ramularia celtidis E. & E. and Septoria gigaspora E. & E. are responsible for leaf spots. BEECH (Fagus). — A mildew (Microsphcera erineophila Cke.) is associated with a mite (Phytoptus) on the leaves of the beech. The fungus (Scorias spongiosa SHADE TREES. 195 Sehw.) grows in the secretions of woolly aphis, causing a large spongy black mass on the leaves. HAWTHORNE (Cratcegus) . — The leaves of the English hawthorne are affected often seriously with Entomoxporiinn thumcnii Cke., which produces spots. ASH (Fraxinus). — The stems and leaves of the ash for the past few years have been troubled with a rust (sEcidium fraxini Schw.). The worst cases have been Fi<;. 07. — Linden leaf spot (Cercoaporn). found in the vicinity of Cape Cod. The ash is also subject to a leaf spot (Septoria Ifucostroma E. & E.) and mildews (Phyllactinia suffulta (Reb.) Sacc. and Phyl- losticta viridis E. & K.). LOCUST (Robinia). — The locust is unusually susceptible to borers, and when attacked by them often becomes infected with various species of fungi. LIX~DEX" (Tilia). — The leaves of the linden are sometimes badly affected with leaf spots, such as Cercospora nticrotora Saee., which may be largely controlled by FIG. 68. — Linden tree in center sprayed twice with Bordeaux mix- tare; others unsprayed. spraying. The linden in some Locations suffers very badly from frost cracks. The American basswood (Tilio