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PERAK AND THE MALAYS.
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PERAK AND THE MALAYS.
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INI UK MAIIlA,
,A l'l(IMi:^S OK I'KUAK, HKll UUSliAND, NAKOD RON''. AM> AXXENDAMS
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PERAK iND THE MALAYS:
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"S. lOI^G" AND "KRIS.
MAJ'R FRED. McNAIR
(Late Royal Artillery) COI.OMAL ENGINE. AND SURTETOR-GENERAL, STRAITS SETTLEMENTS lATE OFFl TING H.M. CHIEF-COMMISSIONER, PERAK; FELT <■<' F THE LINNiEAN SOCIETY, ETC. ETC. TE INSTITUTE CIVII, ENGINEERS.
MALAY WOMAN.
Ill«8tr.U6 toith ^lurlrr,. (£ binfl. bn »• »niflhl. fcom Vltotoot..pl.6 t..l.c» b,. ll.c ^Author
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LONDON :
TINSLEY BROTl R8, 8, CATIIEUIxXE STREET, 8Ti;AM>.
1878.
i / liighta 0/ TrariBlation Hcaerved.']
IM.HE MAIDA, PKIMESS Ot F11R.VK, Uli.ll. UV»UASV, .NAkODA TICONO, AM> ATTENDAMS.
pi^:rak ato the Malays
"SARONG" AND "KRIS."
MAJOR FRED. McNAIR
{Late Royal Artillay)
COT.ONIAr, ENGINEER AND SURVEYOR-GENERAL, STRAIT3 SETTLEMENTS
LATE OFFICIATING H.M. CIIIEF-COMMISSIONEK, PKKAK ;
FELLOW OF THE LINN^AN SOCIETY, ETC. ETC.
ASSOCIATE INSTITUTE CIVIL ENGINEERS.
MALAY WOMAX.
Illustratcb toitfi ^hirtjcn (Engnibings bg ^. gnigitt, from photographs taken bv the Author.
LOin)ON :
TINSLEY BROTHERS, 8, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND.
1878. {_All Rights of Translation Beserved.']
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PERAK
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iiths' leave of absence, y health, after a severe d in Perak, it occurred •f that comparatively »le might not be alto- ish reader.
be remembered, came , through the murder and the despatch by <1 naval and military i outrage.
vernor of the Straits ough the country just 1 was also with the I enjoyed exceptional of which I availed hich have since been
IHAKIJS DICKOtS AMD »TAS8, rtTOTAL MLACB ntm.
PREFACE.
Being in England on a few months' leave of absence, for the purpose of recruiting my health, after a severe attack of jungle fever, contracted in Perak, it occurred to me that a brief account of that comparatively unknown country and its people might not be alto- ^•ether unacceptable to the English reader.
This Malayan State, it will be remembered, came into public notice in 1875-76, through the murder there of the British Resident, and the despatch by our Government of a combined naval and military force to exact satisfaction for the outrage.
As I accompanied the Governor of the Straits Settlements on his progress through the country just prior to the disturbances, and was also with the force subsequently sent there, I enjoyed exceptional opportunities for observation, of which I availed myself, in making the notes which have since been embodied in this work.
vi PREFACE.
I may say in addition, that my general knowledge of the manners and customs of the Malays has been acquired during a residence of over twenty years in the Straits Settlements.
I am indebted to the Reports which have been made from time to time by the various officers of the Government for the confirmation of my t)wn opinions, and also for much valuable infomiation gleaned by them in portions of the country which it was not my good fortune to visit.
For much of the past history of the JMalays I have consulted the works of Crawfurd, Newbold, Loubere, Pritchard, Pickering, Marsden, and Dr. Vincent ; Moor's "Notes on the Archipelago," and the Colonial State Papers — these being among the principal autho- rities that have treated of the origin and progress of this peculiar and wide-spread race ; while, as the work is intended for general reading, I have thought it better to omit all scientific terms.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAOR
Perak — Preliminary sketch — Extcut of the country — A run up a rivei' — Coast-line — Malays and Chinese— The river and its tributaries — Geographical features — Gounong Pondoh — Bukit Bersipit — Absence of roads 1
CHAPTER II.
Elephant-tracks — Navigable rivers — Climate — Lakes — Geo- logical features 16
CHAPTER III.
Mineral productions — Graphite — Galena — Antimony — Iron — Tin and tin-mines — Gold and gold-washing — Deserted workings ...
o.^i
CHAPTER lY.
The ancient knowledge of the mineral productions of Perak and the peninsula — Solomon's ships — Gold, apes, and peacocks — Opinions of early writers — Ophir 39
CHAPTER V.
Vegetable productions — Ferns — Timber-trees — Indiarubber —
Vai'ied foliage — Flowers — Palms — Bamboos 47
CHAPTER YI.
Fruits : The durian — Mangosteen — Shaddock — Ananas — Bread- fruit— Cashew — Nam-nam— Wholesome nature of fi'uits... 59
CHAPTER YII.
Yegetable-food supply — Curries and then* preparation — Kachang — The gourd family — European vegetables — Herbs • — Indigo — Pepper — Gambler — Sugar — Coffee — Tobacco — Cinchona — Rice-growing — Clearing the jungle — Medicinal and poisonous plants 65
Tiu CONTENTS.
CHAITER VIIL
rAt.i
IToxionR animals — The python — Varieties of serpent — Leeches — Tlie tortoise uiul turtle — Danf»«TouH saurians — Govern- ment rewards— Fihh mid fishing— Vurious methods ... 76
CUAl'TER IX.
Sea-fish — Delicacies for the table — Condiment and caviare — Shell-fish and pcnrls— Coral-groves — The Malay fisherman — The skipjack — The ka^-long S&
CH^VPTER X.
Insect pests — Strange beetles — The leaf insect — Fireflies — A
Tartar — Fine field for the entomologist 91
CHAPTER XI.
Birds : Tlic argiis-jjhcasant — " Coo-cy " — Fatal crowing — Quail — Peafowl— The peacock of the Old Testament — Artificial hatching — Talking birds — Pets — Humming and sun birds —Birds of prey 0*
CHAPTER Xn.
Malay buffaloes and their domestication — The elephant — Deer — Wild-boar— The Malay bear — Black leopard — Tiger and trapping — Monkeys — Domestic animals 112
CHAPTER XIII.
The people of Perak — Bugis — Korinchi — Kawa and Mandeling — Cannibalism— Tlic Malay— "Wild tribes— Jacoon, or Sakai — Samangs — Diseases 130
CHAPTER XIV.
J)ress — The Sarong— Dress of the Bugis— Dress of the Malay —
European costumes — Ornaments— Cocjuettish toilets ... 144
CHAPTER XV.
The villages of Perak — Inhabitants— Causes of depopulation — War — Extent of population— Bird-scaring— Malay dwel- lings—Untidy habits— Bathing— House-building— Chinese and convict labour 155
CONTENTS.
iz
CHAPTER XVI.
rion
Houso-building — Inclio Maida — Campongs — Picking tlio
cocoa-nut — Preparations — Poultry — Sambals 107
CHAPTER XVII.
Food — Tobacco — Opium-smoking- -Bctcl-chewing — Toddy — Anxk — Domestic implements — Dammar — Metal-work — Gold filigree 177
CHAPTER XVIII.
Chinese tallymen — Debt - slavery — Slave - hunting — Punish- ments— British influence — Difliculties of Residents ... 190
CHAPTER XIX.
The Malay character — Dealings -with chiefs — Mr. Muntinghe at
Palembang 201
CHAPTER XX.
Propitiatory offerings — Superstitions — Ideas of creation — Con- version to Islamism ... ... ... ... ... ... 218
CHAPTER XXL
Religious ceremonies — Sacrifices — Marriage — Teeth-filing —
Wedding-feasts — Funerals — Salutation — Polygamy ... 231
CHAPTER XXIL
The kris : Sizes — Damasking — The execution kris — The sword of state — The klawang — The parang — The limbing — Spear of state — Blowpipes — Poisoned arrows — Firearms — Matchlocks — Lelahs — Stockades 238
CHAPTER XXIII.
Swimming — Music— Games : Ball-play — Chess — Cock-fighting
— The national sport 260
CHAPTER XXIV.
Seafaring— Boat-building— The dragon boat— Sampans— Praus
— Little Mercy — Piratical craft 269
CONTENTS.
CILA.rTER XXV.
The Jupra piracy — A native's evidence in a native conrt — ^Tho
execution Vy'xh — An execution— Tlio Sultan on piracy ... 282
TkO%
CHAPTER XXVI.
Titles of cliiofH — Taxation and tolls— The Sultan's slaves — Sultanae — Court olj.servancci— The royal fomily — Ancient descent — Vanity and puperstition — A Malay document ... 200
CHAPTER XXVII.
Tlic Malay lanp^iage — Its origin— Connection with Arabic — RlijTiic.s and pootrj-, provcrb.s and .saying.s — Love songs — Literature — Qiiaintness of expression — Letter- writing— A !Malay interpreter 30<>
CHAPTER XXVIIL
Ancient history — Menang Kabau--Migrations — Arab associa- tions— Cinnamon — Early trade in spices — Malays in Mada- gascar— Tlie Aurea Chersonese — Opinions of the ancients — Voyagers of the past 319
CHAPTER XXIX.
First migrations — Voyages to the East — Diaz — Vasco di Gama — The Eastern passage — Sumatra — The Acheen king — Malacca — Fir.st mention of Pcrak — Treaty with Siam — Disturbances 332
CHAPTER XXX.
The Laroot riots — The Muntri — Fresh disturbances — Rival factions — British intervention — Insult to our flag — Sir Andrew Clarke— Plans for pacifying — Di.sarmamcnt of the Chinese — Chiefs* disputes — Proposal for Residents ... 348
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Pangkore treaty — Dcpasition of Sultan Ismail — Sultan Abdullah — Mr. Birch's appointment — Troubles with the Sultan — His reproof by the Governor — The proclamations — The murder of Mr. Birch — Lieutenant Abbott and Mr. Swettenham at the Residency 361
CONTENTS. xi
CHAPTER XXXII.
I'Acii: Tho attack on Passir Siila — Ropulso — lUii-iul oC Mr. Birch and
Captain Inncs — Proceedings of tlio Government — lle-
nforccmcnts from China — CaiJturo of I'assir Sahi — Mr.
J{irch'.s dragon boat^ — -Troops from India — Proceedings
of tho northern column — Qualla Kungsa and Kota Lamah 375
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The southern cohimn — Blanja — The march through the jungle —Stockade-fighting — Capture of Kinta — Flight of Ismail — The Ten-achee valley^The stockades at Bukit Putoos — Captain Channer's attack — The rising at Klang — Sup- pression of the revolts 389
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The capture of Ismail — Escape of Maharajah Lela — Taking of the Datu Sagor — Charges against Abdullah — Arrests of the chiefs — Their transportation — The Perak regalia... 404
CHAPTER XXXV.
Hints to settlers — The climate — Safety of life and j^roperty — Health — Diseases to guard against — Supplies — Sport — Food — A Christmas dish — Dress — Itinerary of the Ulu, or Upper Perak country 414
CHAPTER XXXVI.
An ascent of Mount Ophir from Malacca — The hot springs — Chabow — On the track — Night in the jungle — Camping- out — Gouuong Padaug Batoo — Toudoh — Ciy of the argus- pheasant — Ledang — The view from the summit — The descent — A fine field for the naturalist ... 426
CHAPTER XXXVIL
The future of Perak — Capital and labour— Advance in civilisa- tion— The food supply — Convict labour — A Malay saying — Pohcy with the people — Civilised Malays — Sir James Brooke — Wheeler Woodford Birch 444
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
IKCUE MAIDA, PRINCESS OP I'ERAK, HER IICSBAKD, XIKODA TROXG, AND ATTEXDAXTS
MAIJi^Y WOMAN
CAMPOSG OX PERAK RIVER
PERAK ELEPILAXTS
WILD TRIBES OP PERAK, OR " SAKAIS."
RESIDEXCE OF FRIXCESS OF PERAK AT QUALLA KUXGSA
PERAK CHIEFS AXD ATTEXDAXTS
GEXERAX ASPECT OF A MAXAY VILLAGE OX A RIVER BAXK
THE BESIDEXT'S BOAT
EX-SULTAX ABDULIAH AXD CHIEFS OF PERAK
SITE OF THE GRAVES OF MR. BIRCH AXD CAPTAIX IXXES
JUXCTIOX OF KUXGSA AXD PERAK RIVERS AT QCALLA KUXGSA
IHE PRESEXT RULER OP PERAK— RAJAH YUSUF — AXD HIS TWO SOXS 444
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^rontirpiece |
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Vignette |
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TO rACI fAOl ... 57 |
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... 117 |
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... 138 |
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... 160 |
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... 201 |
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... 229 |
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... 273 |
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2f*7 |
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... 377 |
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... 421 1 cnvQ XIX |
SAilONG" AND "KllIS.'
CHAPTER I.
Perak — Preliminary sketch — Extent of the country — A run up a river — Coast-line — Malays and Chinese — Tlie river and its tributaries — Geographical features — Gouuong Pondoh — Bukit Berapit — Absence of roads.
It is hardly too much to assume that, prior to 187.">, when the sad news reached Eno-land of the risinof of a people under British protection, and the murder of Mr, Birch, the state of Perak was, to the ma- jority of people, a tenxt incognita. They knew, of course, that the Malay peninsula was a long tongue of land stretching nearly to the equator, and that it was in close proximity to Sumatra and Java, with innumerable islands generally known as the Malay archipelago ; but saving those interested in the British Straits Settlements — Singapore, Malacca, and Penang — it may be taken for granted that few people were aware that a large and rich territory, ruled over by a sultan and his petty chiefs, had been, so to speak.
2 ''SARONQ" AND *' KRlS."
placed under the wing of the Jiritish Governmc-nt, whose rcpresentativcH, under the name of residents and assistant-residents, were at the court of the ruh/r, to counsel and advise for the better management of a country whose people were suffering from anarchy and misrule.
I'icturc this tropical land : Not a sun-baked region of parched desert and insufferable drought ; but a rich moist country, almost touching the equator, but rarely suffering from excessive heat ; a lan<l f»f eternal summer, where refreshing rains fall ; where the mon- soons, blow regularly ; where the frightful tempests of the east are unknown ; and which is, for the most part, covered with a luxuriant vegetation, the produce of a fertile soil.
This Perak — pronounced as though spelt Payrah — is one of the larscest of the native states into which the Malay peninsula is divided, and lies upon the western coast, having there, for its ninety miles' boundary- line, thv bright prau-ti-aversed waters of the Straits of Malacca. To be geogi'aphically accurate, its boun- daries— north, south, and east — ma}- Ijc named as the states of Quedah or Keddah, which in the native language signifies an elephant-trap ; Salangore ; Pa- hang, and Tringauu. These are all native states, whose rule and people are very similar to those of the land in question.
Perak signifies silver — a name given to it not from the abundance of that metal, for its existence has been
PERAK. a
littlo traced, l)iit probiihly from tlic vast amount of silvery-looking tin wliicli has Ijeeii, and promises still to be, one of its principal productions. Taken roughly — for we are yet dependent upon native sources for our knowledge of its unsurveyed boundaries — the depth inland of the state is about forty-five miles, thus giving an area of somewhere about 4000 square miles, of a land metaphorically flowing with milk and honey; but badly ruled, thinly in- habited, poorly cultivated, and asking the direction of Western capitalists, and the busy hands of the Chinese people to make it one of the most productive under the sun.
The nature of the country may be seen if we take a rapid glance through it by means of its great water- way, the Pcrak river, which intersects the wide central plain from north to south, and faii-ly divides the state, having west the fertile lands reacliing to the sea, and on the east the gradually-rising country to the central ridge of mountains — the backbone, or watershed, of the whole peninsula — whose mineral resources are only known from the rich treasures in gold and tin that have been, in the com'se of ages, washed down into the alluvial lands.
Sailing, steaming, or even paddling up one of these Perak rivers, we have on either hand, if the tide be down, the regular mud-banks of a tropical shore, with the dense mangrove forest standing up in its labyrinth of water-washed roots, as if nature had
B 2
"SARONO" AND *' KRlS."
set the example, followed by the dwellers in the land, of building a rough scaffold, on which to support the tree- trunks, high and dry above the flood. If, on the contrary, the tide be up, right and left the mangrove forest seems to be growing directly out of the river, the stream passing unhindered among the roots. The silence is solemn in its intensity ; for, save the plashing of the water to paddle or screw, not a sound is to be heard, and the traveller seems to be penetrating into one of nature's unexplored retreats, as he looks in vain for some trace of life beside that of the dense vegetation on either bank.
At last he sees it in the shape of a white eagle, gliding with silent \nng athwart the stream ; and farther on, suddenly, from some exposed mangrove root, there is a flash of blue, and, like a vi\4d azure streak, away darts a kingfisher, one of the brilliantly- feathered birds of the country, disturbed while waiting for its gorgeously-scaled prey. As the light-winged bird disappears, and the eye is still filled with its beauty, the ear is at last saluted ^Wth a sound to break the utter stillness of the river, for there is a dull hca\y splash, an eddying in the water, as, from amidst the mud or mangrove roots, a huge alligator rushes into the stream, the traveller being, perhaps, in time to see a portion of its rugged, muddy-hued, loathsome body ; and he may be fortunate enough to see, just upon the surface, the two hill-crowned eyes and long snout of some other reptile, the head turning
PRELIMINAllY SKETCn.
slightly from side to side, as its owner sends a shudder through the spectator, who knows that the monster is on the watch for prey.
As tlie l)oat glides on and on, l:)eyond the tidal influence, the character of the forest changes : the mangroves give place to jungle growth, and on either side, columnar and beautiful, rise the stately growths of palm, with their wondrously-straight trunks and tufted heads.
Suddenly the first trace of human habitation appears, in the shape of a jMalay campong or village — a cluster of houses of bamboo and other wood, in a grove of cocoa-nut palms and other fruit-trees. The huts arc raised on posts, so as to be beyond the reach of flood and noxious beast, and look neat with their woven sides of split bamboo or reed, while their roofs are thatched with attap, an arrangement of the palm- leaves, that grow close at hand.
If the campong be of any extent, there is probably a mosque ; while, secured to bamboo posts, or run up safely on the mud, are the boats of the people. These boats play a prominent part in the daily life of the Malay ; for, roughly speaking, Perak is now a land of jungle, and its rivers are the highways, upon which its villages are built ; while its roads are only a few elephant-tracks but little used, and pathways through the jungle known to the country people alone.
Continuing our course either up the main stream
"SABONQ" and ''KJiTS:
or oiK.' of its tributiirics, the jungle disuppears here and there, to give plaf:c to traces of cultivation, where \nu\i or rice i.s grown in the low, moist, alluvial soil. As we still ascend, the native boats, or sampans, may be met coming down with the stream, laden with produce, or containing some fisherman, equipped for his 2)ursuit.
As we ascend higher, it is to find that the stream grows more rapid, and if in a small boat, poling, or as we should call it punting, our skiff against the stream, is the custom adopted. And now, fi-om time to time, fresh traces of the sparse population of the country appear, battling with the ever-encroaching j)rimeval forest. lUiffalocs are seen, standing knee- deep in the river-edge ; children approach the river- bank to stare at our boat; and then there is the forest once more, the fjlidinnr river with increasinjj shallows, and higher still the rapids.
The eoast-line is broken with endless numlx;rs of mangrove-fringed creeks, and small tidal estuaries, and these have ever been the hiding-places of the much-dreaded praus, those famous piratical craft with which the name of the Malay has so long been associated. The principal rivers that here form estuaries are the Perak ; the Krean and Bernam, which form the northern and southern boundaries of the state ; the Laroot river, which drains the principal tin-land ; and the Dintling, off which lie the Islands of the same name.
MAI^AYS .\yi> CiriNESE. 7
These islands, Wkv. reiiaiig to tlie Jioilliwjird, have now become Jiritish territory, and attord capital anchorage between them and the shore, M'itli an ample supply of fresh water to be obtained on the principal island, Pulo Pangkorc. This is the largest of the group, and, unlike tlie greater proportion of the mainland, is now becoming rapidly peopled by the Malays and Chinese ; tliese latter making a busy home wherever there is gold or tin to be mined, or money to be earned by straightforward industry. Here at Pulo Pangkore they arc mostly employed as woodcutters, and in making lime, for which abundant material is found all round the island, in the sliape of the limestone coral and madrepores.
This zoophyte-produced limestone, as seen from a boat, when peering down through the limpid water, presents a scene of wondrous beauty, with its many tints and shades of colour, forming a perfect sub- marine e'arden of endless loveliness, tliroug^h whose flowers and shrubs glide the brilliant fish of the tropic region, clad in armour whose hues are at times dazzling, and far outrival the corals amongst which they rove. The dry coral is easily burned by the Chinese into lime, and procures a high price for building purposes at Penang. The Malays, on the contrary, occupy small tracts of land, which they plant with fruit-trees, principally the plantain or banana, and the chumpada or small jack- fruit, a variety of the bread-fruit of Polynesia.
*' SARONG" AND "A'7?7.S."
The Dutch wore the former orcu])ants of this ishiud at tlio time that thcv held ^Malacca, and the remains of tluir fort and factory- are still to l^c seen close to the shore, and within reach of Anson Bay.
'J'lic IVrak river is a fine broad stream, averaging for the first fifty miles about one-fourth of a mile in width, navigable for about one hundred an<l eighty miles from its mouth — an assert i<jn that sounds some- what paradoxic^il, when the limits of the country aro given as only ninety miles from north to south. Its serpentine wanderings, however, fully account for this. Although navigable to so great a distance, this is only for boats : still goodly vessels may make their way up for forty miles to Durian Sabataug, after which the draught of boats must become smaller and smaller, while in Ooloo, or Upper Perak, rapids are encountered in several places, long before the sources are reached. Jit a range of hills, called Titti-Wangsa, in the adjacent state of Quedah.
These rapids in the ascent of the river are generally passed on rafts, which are very skilfully constructed by the IMalays, out of the large hollow bamboos of the countr}', lashed securely together with rattans. They will readily make a raft of this kind fifty feet long and six feet wide, containing upon it a palm-thatched house. -Two men paddle, while two more stand fore and aft with long poles, by means of which they keep the raft clear of boulders, as on entering the rapids it glides frequently between rocks
riri'] I'j'juAK invint
only eight or ten feet apart, contact witli wliich would mean an utter collapse of the light raft, and too probably a fatal accident.
Tiic most dangerous of these rapids is one known by the ]\lalays as Jeram Panjang, at the present known boundary of Perak, towards the state of Patani. Here there is a huge boulder, and before attempting to pass it the boatmen make certain pro- pitiatory offerings, in the shape of bananas and betel- nuts, accompanied by a speech, in which leave is asked to go down the rapid. It is no light task this rapid, for the fall amounts to a dozen feet in the space of forty yards, through a passage only from ten to fourteen feet wide. To prevent accidents rattans are secured to the raft to hold it back ; but in spite of this many accidents occur amid the rush and turmoil of the hurrying waters, which eddy and form dangerous whirlpools, and lives have occasionally been lost. Some idea of the difficulties of the navigation in these higher parts of the river may be formed, when it is announced that according to a late voyager — Mr. Daly — down the stream, there were over fifty rapids — the most dangerous being the above-named, and one known as Jeram Klino^.
These rapids are not the only obstacles to the navigation, for after the freshets the trunks of large trees are frequently brought down, many of which strand in the shallows, and form those dangerous impediments Avhich the Americans call " snags," and
10 ''SMlOXO" AND *'KIiISr
*' sawyers," and wliicli aic fatal to tin- unfortunate ]x»at tliat encounters tlirm in its way. Like must rivers of its kind, the Perak has a hirge bar at it« mouth, of sufficient importance to nocessitiitc careful pilotage through the channel, for large vessels inward or outward l)Ound.
Of its tributaries the itrincijtal are the Plus, Kungsa, Kiiita, and Batang Padang rivers, all rising in the east and north-east, amongst the heights of the central ranj^e: while numerous streams of minor fn*owth tend to make the state an admirably-watered country, and, as already intimated, form the highways for the limited ct>ramerce that is earned on.
This is no land of huge volcanic peaks, for the mountains only attain to an average altitude of 5000 or GOOO feet ; 7000, as far as present surveys go, probably being the extreme. Here the ancient forest reigns supreme in all its grandeur ; in fact, with few exceptions, as soon as the river-lianks, with their sparse villages, are left behind, the tmveller plunges into the jungle, and then finds the land almost wholly uninhabited, Siive by a few wild tribes, who migrate from spot to spot, as they are moved by their superetitious reverence for good or evil omens.
The general knowledge of the eastern portion of Perak is at present veiy imperfect ; and though the Malay peninsula has been crossed to the north and south, so far it is probable that no European has
GEOdiiArnrnAL features. ii
made liis way tlirongh Pcruk to the opposite coast, thus leaving open a goodly exploration for anyone of adventurous mind. The indefatigal)le Russian traveller, Baron Maclay, has traversed a considerable portion of the interior ; but the information h(i obtained from native sources was, on the whole, so contradictory and untrustworthy as to be but of little value.
There are two minor ranocs between the hio'her mountains and the seaboard, and, running almost parallel with the backbone of the peninsula, they form the valleys of the Perak and Kinta rivers. The range nearest the sea contains several tolerably hioh moun- tains, the principal of which are Gounong Booboo and Gounong Hijau — "gounong" being the Malay term for a mountain, as " l)ukit " is for a hill. The ascertained height of Gounong Booboo is 6100 feet, the latter being only a little lower. Other eminences are known, as the North and South Mounds, and Bukit Sigari, or the False Binding. The most peculiar mountain of the country, however, is one known as Gounong Pondoh, lying a little north of the direct route between the mouth of the Laroot river and Qualla Kungsa, one of the principal stations of the upper Perak river.
Gounono' Pondoh is a sino;ular eminence, standins; alone, and rising out of the plain like a huge beehive ; for it is one mass of red and white limestone, about 1000 feet high, bare and time-worn in places.
12 "S.lnoNO*' AND "Knrs.'
;iinl perforated witli the caves peculiar to tliis forma- tion. Tliis eminence is distinctly seen on enterinf;^ the mouth of the Laroot river, and also forms a very prominent object from Qualla Kungsa on the Perak river. A similar hill is found in the neigh- bouring state of Quedah, and is there known as the Elephant Rock. It is likewise of limestone, and its peculiar formation must be a problem for geologists.
The caverns of these limestone hills are wtU worthy of a visit, and make no great demand on the explorer. In the case of the Elephant Rock there is first a stift' climb over the rocks to reach the arched entrance, which is richly fringed with the stalactites common to limestone caves. One of these stalactites has been broken, and on being struck by the club of the Malay guide, the peculiar sonorous tone emitted reverberates through the cavern with a hollow roar. During a visit in 1872, torches were lit which displayed on all sides the peculiar shapes taken by the congela- tions of lime-charged water, these* shapes being grotesque in the extreme, some even assuming a strong resemblance to the human profile, with flowing beard and locks, carved in white marble by some clever sculptor's lumd. Some idea of the extent may be gained when it is mentioned that the roof is some seventy feet above the floor, while large un- explored passages extend in difterent dii'cctions. Prevalent as are the stalactites, their corresponding stalagmites are comparatively few. Many, however,
BUKIT BEE AT IT. 13
arc (loul)tl('ss buried bciiciitli tlic excreta of bats, wliieli covers tlie floor to a great deptli ; and dou1)tle.s.s below this the geologist will find many relics of the older fauna of the peninsula when the time for excava- tion comes.
On the occasion of this visit the party had a narrow escape, for one member was moved with a strong desire to let off a rocket in the interior of the cave; a proceeding which would probably have re- sulted in bringing down tons of stalactites on his com- panions' heads. He was however stopped in time.
The cavern is entered from the land side, and the mountain is completely pierced, so that the explorer comes at length upon an opening of some fifty feet by thirty, looking straight out to sea through a glorious fringe of stalactites and ferns, gi^^ing the opening, with its ferny and mossy terraces, the aspect of a beautiful proscenium, from which the eye is taken with regret.
The road mentioned as extendino- from the mouth of the Laroot river to Qualla Kungsa is notable as being one of the principal in the state, and has been developed, under the management of the British Eesi- dent, from a mere elephant-track into one suitable for the transport of produce. The mention of a road some twenty-seven miles in extent may sound a trifle, but in a land where the rivers form almost the sole means of intercommunication, the existence of one good road, setting aside the military advantages,, means the opening out of the country to a new form
U "8AB0N0" AND "KRlS:'
of tralHc. This road leads through the pass of liiikit Hcrapit, a ravine of great lit-aiity though of no vast extent. Tlie granite rrops out licre of a fine gray variety, simihir to our Aberdeen ; tall forest trees tower up, rich in tlu'ir gorgeous gr<*ens, •whilst at their feet cluster ground-orchids (piaint and curious in fonn, and far more beautiful than the stunted kinds seen in our hothouses at home. In clearings where the forest gives place to the traces of former cultivation, fruit-trees arc found in abundance, the Malays planting extensively wherever they settle. Clump after clump of fruit-bearing trees is passed, lend- ing the beauty of their foliage and burdens to the scene, already brightened here and there by bubbling streams of delicious water, rushing over the rocks of the narrow <?orffes on their wav to swell the Laroot river below the pass.
The trees here are frequently grand in their growth, rising up without a branch a hundred feet before inter- weaving with their fellows to fonu a fehade so dense, that farther in the forest a dim twilight reigns even at noonday.
This road passing through Bukit Berapit divides the district of Laroot from Pcrak proper. It was commenced by Captain Speedy, Her Majesty's Assis- tant-resident at Laroot^ with the aid of the Muntri of Perak, one of the principal officers of the Sultan's little court, and one who has for many years claimed to be the governor of the above district. It was
AltSENCl'J OF i:(>.\liS. ir,
piislied oil witli vigour l)y tho civil and military iiutlioritics iluriug the disturbances of 1870-7G, ami a line of telegraph was laid along it to conn(!ct the military post of Qualla Kungsa with the anchorage in the Laroot river at Teluk Kartang, the nearest point to our old settlement at Penang.
A good idea may be formed of the primitive nature of the country, when it is considered that this is the only road worthy of the name. There are, however, certain tracks important from their com- munications, not from their condition. One of these leads from a place called Boyali, north of Sengang, on the Perak, to Kinta, a place of importance from its having been the old seat of the Government of Perak. This track passes through several villages during its course of about forty miles ; while a back pathway of about twenty miles in length will take the traveller ao-ain to the river at a ^dllao^c called Blanja, where, if the Perak be crossed, a couple of fresh tracks diverge, each of which leads to the sea by communication with the rivers Trong and Binding, whose mouths are about twenty-five miles apart.
A road to connect the mouth of the Perak river with. Banda Baru, the Residency, is in course of con- struction, and this will do away witli the necessity for a long and tedious journey along the serpentine windings of the lower reaches of the river. Besides this there are a few jungle pathways, as intimated, only known to the natives, and but little used.
CHAPTER II.
Elcplmnt-tracks — XavigaMc rivers — Climate — Lakes — GeologicAl
features.
Liberally supplied as they have beeu, then, by nature with water-ways, in tlic shape of rivers, the necessity for roads does not seem to have occurred to the Malays, especially as they are by nature essentially a sea-going and boating people ; and consequently they for the most part build their campougs or villages on the riv^er-banks ; and where elephant-tracks do exist they are mostly in places where it has been found convenient to carry tin to the nearest market, ob- taining in return rice, salt, and salt-flsh, which form the staple food of the ^Malays.
During the petty war which followed the murder of Mr. Birch, one of these elephant-tracks was traversed by General, now Sii* Francis, Colborne, K.C^B., with his little force, which marched through the jungle from Blanja to Kinta ; but it was only with great difficulty — a difficulty which will Ije undei*stood when it is stated that the elephant, from notions of safety, always plants his feet in the
ELEPTIANT TRACKS. 17
tracks of his fellows who have gone bcf(jrc, from time immemorial, with the natural result that tlic track l)ecomes a scries of pit-holes, almost im- passable for travellers on foot.
Before (juitting the subject of the rivers, a few words must be said respecting the more important tributaries of the Perak — namely, the Kungsa, at whose confluence the important station of Qualla Kungsa, or mouth of the Kungsa, is situated — the Bidor and Batang Padang, which unite and enter the Perak about fifty miles from its mouth. Up to this point ships drawing not more than thirteen feet of water may be navigated. It was here that Her Majesty's war vessels lay at anchor during the dis- turbances. This place — Durian Sabatang as it is named — has been chosen from its natural advantages as a most desirable place for a permanent station, and it is believed that the authorities have definitely decided upon erecting one here.
The river Kinta, perhaps after the Perak the most important of those in the state, rises in the main range, and after running in a southerly direction, enters the Perak at Qualla Trus ; but it bifurcates about six miles before joining the main stream, and forms a delta, upon which is situated the village of Banda Baru, the seat of the Residency. This is no very cheerful spot, lying low, and being uncomfortably swampy, and it is probable that on the erection of a station at Durian Sabatang, the Residency will be
c
18 *'SABONO" AND ''KUlS."
removed to wluit will i)iobaljly become the princi])al port of the south. This is the more probable that at this point an alteration becomes necessary in the navigation, vessels of lighter draught being requii"ed, and from the swift nature of the stream the process of poling being adopted ; though after what has been done in the way of constructing large steamers drawing only a foot or two of water, and with stern- paddles, for the shallow American rivera, the want of depth in the Perak will not stand in the; way of its becoming the great water-way of a large commerce, i-unuing as it does north and south through the whole state, and even at Qualla Kungsa, one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, being over two hundred yards wide.
The Bernam and Krean have ali*ead}' been men- tioned, not as tributaries of the Pei*ak, but as running direct into the Straits, and important, the former as forming the southern boundary between Perak state and Salangore — the latter jis dividing the state from Province Wellesley, our British possession, and the state of Quedah on the north.
The soil on the banks of these rivers is generally a light sandy loam, which easily washes in during the annual freshets, with the natural consequence that sandbanks frequently obstruct the navigation. These, and the many other hindrances in the shape of tree- trunks, will doubtless be cleared as the coimtry be- comes more opened up ; but, in spite of the admii'able
NAVIGAliLi: in VERS. ID
supply of water-ways, and the convenience of the streams for bringing down the mineral produce of the central ridge of mountains in which they rise, the necessity becomes every day more apparent for the construction of large trunk-roads, witli cross-rcjad^ communicating with the river.
Abundance of material exists for this purpose, except on the actual banks of the rivers near the sea, where the constant recurrence of mangrove swamp.s necessitates the formation of the well-known road composed of trunks of trees laid side by side, and called '' corduroy," or else the excavation of deep trenches, to obtain sufficient soil to raise the surface of the road above the reach of the water in the tidal swamps ; for unless this is done to the extent of at least two-and-a-half feet above high-water mark, the road is soon perforated by land-crabs, and becomes useless.
The rivers become swollen with mountain torrents during the rains, rising several feet, for the average rainfall in Perak is from sixty to ninety inches ; and at such times navisration becomes difficult or im-
o
possible. There is no distinction of spring, summer, autumn, and winter here ; for the year is divided into two seasons, ruled by the prevalence of the monsoons, that from the north-east beginning about the middle of October and lasting to the middle of April, while that from the south-west prevails during the rest of the year. The word " monsoon " is too often associated in people's minds with a time of storms, but in these regions it
c 2
20 "SARONO'* AND "KRlSr
applies only to tli(3 direction of the winds, whirh blow steadily from these quarters for six months alttTnatcly. For Perak is no land of t}'phoons and hurricanes, but is an equable region, a hind, as has been intimated, of eternal summer to the European, which, by the way, is looked upon by him as no advantage ; for the monotony of such an unchanging season becomes wearisome in the extreme.
The north-east monsoon is, so to speak, the dry season, though a diy season proper does not exist ; for there are constant showers which lighten the air and make the climate pleasant and easy to bear. The day perhaps has been hot, steamy, and oi)pressive, when towards evening the clouds are seen to gather blackly over the mountains, and a steady downpour sets in, accompanied by thunder and lightning, the latter mostly of the kind known as "sheet." As the rain ceases there is a delicious freshness in the atmosphere, the oppression passes away, and the air is for the time being redolent of the sweet after-shower scent ; though it must be said that the flowers of this region arc greatly wanting in the delicious odours of those of temperate climates — a fact probably to be attributed to their rapid growth and devehipment from a well- watered soil, and from an atmosphere laden with moisture to the greatest degree.
During the prevalence of the south-west monsoon the heavy rainfalls occur, with storms and electrical discharges, which last for many hours.
CLIMATE. 21
The Ju'at is never great, and licars no comparison witli that of India, a sinfruhir fact ^vhen it is con- sidercd how near JY-rak lies to the equator. On the phiius tlie mean annual temperature is about 70 deo:rces, but in the morning the thermometer fre- quently falls as low as 74 degrees ; while in the ascents of the mountains that have been scaled the Malays have been known to complain bitterly of the cold. There is this peculiarity in the climate, that before rain the air becomes very oppressive, from the amount of moisture with which the atmosphere is saturated ; and this, with the sudden nightly falls of the mercury, is the principal cause of disorders amongst the Europeans,
These diseases take the form of fever and rheu- matism. On the whole, however, the climate is decidedly healthy ; though, as in almost any part of the world, a night's rest at the foot of hills, or any low-lying swampy ground, may result in an attack of fever. These are facts apparently known to the natives, as shown by the construction of their huts upon piles of bamboo ; though the seeking of pro- tection from wild beasts and from floods doubtless has had its influence.
Lakes seem to have, so far as is at present known, little to do with the physical features of Perak. Here and there the rivers widen into lagoons, and a lake of some extent has been seen, but not surveyed, in the central part of the country ; but probably such lakes
22 **8AB0NG** and "KBIS."
tin exist aiT! dcpeudciit upon tlir fn-licts of tlie rainy season.
Very little has been ascertained .'ls yet as to the geological features of the country ; but one of nature's singular rliangos of surface is very plain hero in the way in which she is constantly denuding the higher grounds, and canying down, by moans of the rivers, the superabundant soil which constantly adds to the coast-lino. This is especially marked in the Laroot district, where small tracts of new land have been brought under cultivation, so that where at no ver}' distant period the tide ran, padi, or rice, is now showing its luxuriant growth.
The primitive rock — that which forms the main range of the country — seems to be that hai-d stone so itimiliar to us in the sculptures of the Egyptians, and known as syenite, while here and there, iis in the pass at Bukit Borapit, a fine-grained granite crops out, equal to our own Aberdeen. In this pass there is also quartz rock, and it is possible that hete the granite passes into syenite. The most important rock, how- ever, is an argillacoous talcose schist, for in this is to be found the princi[tal mineral deposits of the country.
For some distance from the coast the land is low and swampy, but, gradually rising, a better class of country is reached, where the soil has been washed from the hills, and this is as fertile as that towards the sea is sterile and unproductive. There are, how-
OEOLOaiOAL FEATURES. 23
<3Vor, i)laiiis near tlio coast of higher chivatioii lliaii the ordinary tracts, and these arc cultivatccl by tlie natives, wlio plant maize and fruit-trees, and, \vlierc irrigation is available, they grow theii" staple food — rice.
Farther inland, the j^lains, which are to be found of greater extent in the Perak than in the Kinta valley, are broken up with natural sand-ridges, which lighten the soil, and make it very well suited for the cultivation of rice ; and, from their appearance of having been more under the plough than at the present time, give evidence of the existence of a far larger population than now exists in the country. Undoubtedly the richest soil in the valleys is that com- posed of the debris of the mountains proceeding from the decomposition of the felspar in the granite. This debris, mixed with the decayed vegetable matter, has gradually subsided into the low lands, and now offers itself for cultivation. There is no trace of volcanic action in the peninsula, saving a few hot springs exist- ing at Malacca ; and, near as Perak lies to the great volcanic band which contains the craters of Java and Sumbawa, earthquakes are unknown, though slight shocks have been felt at Singapore. The country is, however, peculiarly rich in minerals, and these will undoubtedly lay the foundation of its future prosperity.
Fossils are rarely found ; but at the mouth of one of the rivers there are very curious deposits of the ordinary cockle-shell, raised up into heaps many feet
U . ''8AR0NQ" AND "KRIS.**
higli, and looking as if they liad been left there by the action of some eddy ; though when and how, it is impossible to say, for they lie high and dry upon the shore.
In northern Perak a limestone formation is pretty prevalent, as opposed to the ferruginous sandstones and shales of the south. Large slabs of slate are to be found in certain of the rivei"s : it is tolerably soft, but not bituminous. From indications, there seems to be a rich deposit.
Hard sandstone and ironstone rocks are to be found jutting out from the banks of the upper reaches of the Perak river, but the ironstone is not affected by the magnet. Here again, too, quite inland, traces of shells are found in positions eight or ten feet above the level, as if left by the receding sea. This is especially noticeable at the base of Gounong Wang, a huge limestone hill.
On the whole, so fiir as the country has been explored, the palaeontologist does not find rich and curious stores awaiting him, and has to be content with examining boulders of granite, veined with quartz, sprinkled with large grains of felspar, and showing their character plainly in the smooth-washed sides in the rapids above Qualla Kungsa. Now and then, though, he may be rewarded with a fossil, traces being seen of what is evidently petrified wood ; but until the country is more opened out, organic remains arc not likely to reward his scarcK
CHAriER III.
Mineral productions — Grapliite— Galena — Antimony — Iron — Tin and tin-mines — Gold and gold-washing — Deserted workings.
If tlie visitor to Pcrak turns Hs attention to minera- logy, rich stores doubtless await him, especially as a scientific search, although proposed, has not yet been undertaken by the Government. In 1854, the writer discovered graphite or plumbago, in one of the states south of Perak : and thouorh broue^ht into notice at the time it has since passed out of mind, but there is every reason to believe that deposits exist. The same may be said of galena, which has been found in the Dindino-s, and of which there are valuable mines in Patani, just to the north. This ore of lead was known to be a mineral of the peninsula as far back as 1616, but its actual site and locahty never appear to have been traced until very recently by Mr. Fisher.
This may seem a poor argument as regards Perak, till it is understood that the states north and south are really only portions of the same country, pierced
26 *'8AB0NG'* and "KRI8."
by the same range ()f mouutaias, and Beparated only by a comparatively few miles.
What is wanted is for exploring-parties to trace eastward and examine the mountain-ranges with tlieir ravines, so a-s to rcarh the matrices of the metallic stores that are tolerably-plcntifully obtained even now in the lower lands. Traces of hidden wealth have frequently been found. Of gems, there are diamonds and garnets, in what number it is impossible to say, and amethystine quartz exists in great beauty.
A curious discovery of silver antimony was made not far south of Perak. On one occasion when a quantity of stones were taken into Singapore jail for the convicts to break, one was found to be a mass of antimony. The explanation given was that the lump was one of the stones that had been used by the Malays for attaching to the anchors of their boats; and in this w^ay it had probably been brought over from Borneo, where the ore is known to exist. Search near the spot where the stone was picked up proved fruitless ; but it is a ftir more reasonable surmise that silver antimony exists in the JSIalay peninsula if not in Perak, and that it will some day reward the explorer's zeal. This is, of course, surmise, but to it may be added the reports that in the mountain-ranges of the Laroot district copper with bromide and sulphide of silver have been found. There is no reason why they should not exist, though in a land of gold and tin.
MINERAL VnnDUrTTONS: 27
()ii tlir ^vll()I(', iron is ;il)iiii(l;iiil in Po'ak, iind cxi.sts ill []ic form of llic peroxide, and ;is u cellular clay ironstoiK^ known as laterite; but so far no attempt luis been made to reduce these to the metallic form. TIk' late Mr. Westerhout stated that he had had specimens of copper brought to him from the interior of the country ; but he died before it was possible to take advantage of the discovery, and the rich metal there- fore lies waiting for the explorer's hand.
Coal has been found, though as yet small in quantity, and of no great commercial value. Investi- gation, however, would probably result in the discovery of any or all of the above minerals in abundance ; and even if it were barren of result, the prospecting- parties would be amply rewarded by the opening out of new lodes of tin and gold, which not only exist, but have been mined here from time immemorial.
The bright silvery metal tin is worked in Perak to a great extent, and though obtained in a clumsy primitive way, the yield is very abundant, and would be far greater but for the evident depopulation of the country. The metal has been attractive enough to bring the busy Chinaman by the thousand, and go where you will through Perak, he is to be encountered, patient and busy, digging, washing, and melting the ore.
It seems odd in a land where gold is found in tolerable quantities, that tin should be looked upon as the principal metal. This however is easily explain-
28
''SABONG" AND *' KBlS."
r\ i
able from the orreater ease with which it is obtained. A chief here reckons his wealth in his bhars or slabs of tin ; and when, as in a late act of piracy, a rajah was brought to book by one of Her Majesty's cruisers, the offender was mulcted, not in so many hogsheads of palm-oil as on the west coast of Africa, nor in so many peculiarly-shaped dollars as in China, but in a certain number of slabs of tin.
All over the country deserted tin mines are to be found. In the south, in the neighbourhood of the Batang Padang, and Bidor rivers, they are frequent, but at the same time there are many mines being worked. In each case examination shows that the tin gravel has been brought down by floods from the mountains some miles to the east and north ; but the idea of oroino; to the mineral fountain-heads never seems to have occurred to the Chinese, though some- times, like the Malays, they object to any such proceeding on account of the mountain jungle being- infested with evil spirits, to whom they might give offence. Yet at the same time it is found that the nearer the mountain, the better is the yield of the ore, which is found in small black granules, similar to those seen in a quartz specimen of tin ore from Cornwall.
In these southern parts, want of capital and the difficulties of carriage seem to prove great drawbacks to the successful carrying out of the work ; and the consequence is that Laroot, in the extreme north of
' KE--
asf
I .
oftlin' ■
fken; • I iiitj.
TIN AN It '11 'I MINI':!',.
%',)
♦
the Htaf/;, wfir^ro \\m', th\>(^UM fw, mh, hiifl m,rm\f/'> compumtivc.ly f-my— which Umt Stm Um Atu^, *^tu',i im the i()(A HU(/ply--^lraw» t// \W'M th/j Yf)tU'A\fi%\ ^/^/riu/ti of the iin-miu'in^ ^'f^^'fiCY-
pfjng an^l Kamantlng, 77ij;^ j;//rtl//rr ''/f tl»^, niffp', m well d^^.TvIng of a vl.^It, ff/rr* >t» W/>^ tit^, Utf^^, and mr/it thrivliig; ^fArU(\\u<i ont^ m H 'J/>^, m if^^frtft^ f^ontr^At to the ?Jeep5^ ^gyi^^iltri/^j j;/^,»/ji»Wy w^Wi*? tlN^, vbiqiiitMW Chitwrnwrii k tt)i a^. work. At /^^
tma^ tf^ mA aft eiXeaet thoA Hi^ tmrn^jr €6^»7W ^^
^
An^frfi ^i"iMg"p» %^ die lumfe^ ]^!Me» tad
>«i^
I
28 *'8AB0NG" and *'KBI8:*
iiblc from the greater ease with which it is obtained. A chief liere reckons liis wealth in liis bhars or slaljs of tin ; and when, as in a hite act of piracy, a rajah was brought to l)ook by one of Her Majestj-'s cruisers, the offender was mulcted, not in so many hogsheads of palm-oil as on the west coast of Africa, nor in so many peculiarly-shaped dollars as in China, but in a certain number of slabs of tin.
All over the country deserted tin mines are to be found. In Ihe south, in the neighbourhood of the Batang Padang, and Bidor rivers, they are frequent, but at the same time there are many mines being worked. In each case examination shows that the tin gravel has been brought down by floods from the mountains some miles to the east and north ; but the idea of 'joins to the mineral fountain-heads never seems to have occurred to the Chinese, though some- times, like the Malays, they object to any such proceeding on account of the mountain jungle being infested with evil spirits, to whom they might give offence. Yet at the same time it is found that the nearer the mountain, the better is the yield of the ore, which is found in small black granules, similar to those seen in a quartz specimen of tin ore from Cornwall.
In these southern parts, want of capital and the difficulties of carriage seem to prove great drawbacks to the successful carT}'ing out of the work ; and the consequence is that Laroot, in the extreme north of
TIN AND TIN MINES. 29
the state, wlicrc the deposits are rich, and carriage comparatively easy — whicli last has its due effect on the food supply — draws to itself the principal portion of the tin-mining energy.
The principal mining stations of Laroot are Thai- peng and Kamunting. This portion of the state is well deservino- of a visit, from its beinf:^ the busiest and most thriving ; standing out, as it does, in strong- contrast to tlic sleepy agricultural portions, where tbe ubiquitous Chinaman is not at work. At Thai-peng is the dwelling of the Assistant-resident, Captain Speedy, a gentleman who, by his energy, has pro- duced peace amongst the rival factions of the Chinese, given protection and safety, and fostered the mining energy to such an extent that the mining towns are thronged, there are Chinese shops, and the general air of the place betokens prosperity.
The Resident's house here is a larije native struc- ture upon an eminence. It looks, with its wooden supports, palm-thatch, and extensive verandahs, pre- cisely adapted to the climate ; and here the eastern element shows out strongly, in the Chinese going and coming in their peculiar costume and parasol-shaped hats, while the Resident's police — swarthy Sikhs, in white puggarees — stand about awaiting orders, or on duty.
Thai-peng village, or town, as seen from the As- sistant-resident's house, is a busy place, with long thatched buildings by the hundred. Fences and
30 "8AB0N0'* AND "KRl8."
"Watercourses intersect the land, and here and there supplies of water are dammed up for the purpose of "washing the tin.
Much will have to be done to improve the process of {)])tainin2 and smeltinfj the tin, as the natives are wasteful and extravagant, with the consequence that high prices result. Unfortunately the trade has of late been bad, the duty high, and Australian tin has begun to compete favouraljly with that of the Straits ; but ius the latter is stream tin, and in abun- dance in Laroot, without seeking in the matrix, it is probable that it may soon recover its old position in the market, though perhaps not at the earlier prices.
What is really wanted to make the tin deposits of Laroot higlily profitable is the introduction of British capital and machiner}-, with British enterprise. Then the ore would be obtained, washed, and smelted with the smallest loss ; and here, in a land where shafts that take years to dig, and require fortunes to be sunk, an* not needed, but where the 'ore is reached, after removing a few feet of superficial soU, there must be temptations enough for the Coniish miner, when- ever a settled rule has made the countr}' safe — and this must idtimately come.
The method of procuring the ore or " biji timah " — tin seeds — is very simple. The Malays dig a few feet down in a favourable spot at the base of the hills, take up the clay, which contains the tin in small nodules, and carefully wash it in running water, made
Mmma. 31
to flow ovci' it Ity iiir.iiis (»f artifici;il clianncls. TIio ore is tlieu, whon dry, ready for smelting, whicli in idso performed in a vciy primitive manner. A fur- •uaee is built up of clay, with a liole beneath; the ore is placed in the furnace between layers of char- coal ; fire is applied, and forced into a powerful glow by means of very homely bamboo bellows, which keeps up sufficient blast to cause the golden-orange molten metal to trickle into the receptacle below, from which it is ladled into moulds, to form slabs or ingots, weighing two catties (equal to 2'i lb.). Sometimes, however, the Chinese mould is adojited, in which a slab weighing fifty catties is cast.
The Chinese are wasteful enough in their way of obtaining the tin, but they are far in advance of their unprogressive neighbours, bringing simple machinery to bear where necessary ; and their process is ad- mirably described by Captain Speedy, the Assistant- resident at Laroot.
According to his report, the tin lies at a distance of from twenty to fifty feet from the surface, gradually diminishing towards the hill-sides, where it is not more than six feet down ; and as it lies horizontally, the following arrangements are made : The jungle is cleared and the mine marked, water is brought by a ditch from the nearest stream, and then the exca- vatino; commences.
At about six feet down water begins to rise from the soil ; and to get rid of this, and also to utilise the
32 "SARONO" AND **KRlS."
water from the stream as a motive power, an ingenious chain-pump is made, by const meting a long wooden trough of three jthinks, each one liundred feet in length ; and this is placed with one end resting on the bank, the other sloping to the water in the lowest part of tlic mine.
" A wooden chain with small oljlong pieces of wood placed at right angles to the line is fitted accurately into tlif above-named trough. The wooden chain is endless, and is passed round two wheels, a small one at the lower end of the trough and a larger one at the upper enth This latter is a water-wheel, and is turned by a constant stream flowing over it. Round the axle of this wheel are cogs, each of which in turn, as the wheel revolves, draws up a joint of the endless chain through the trough, and as each joint fits ac- curately into the trough, they bring up in succession a quantity of water, which, on reaching the mouth of the trougli, falls into the channel by which the water which turns the wheel is carried off, and is thus also taken away out of the mine and conducted to the next, where the process is repeated. The small wheel at the lower end of the trough regulates the chain, and guides the wooden joints into the trough, causing each to take up in succession its quantum of water, and by this means the mine is emptied."
Their tools are very poor, consisting of only a common hoe and a small flat cane basket. With these the whole of the work is done, the baskets when
77.V WASHING. 33
full hokliiif^ about four pounds of cartlu Ouc of tliu8(3 baskets is placed at either end of a stout bamboo, balanced over a labourer's should(!rs, carried off and emptied, while the men with the hoc scrape together more soil and fill other baskets.
What an English navvy, armed with spado, barrow, and pick would think of the oljlique-eyed, childish- faced Chinaman and the amcjunt of work he does may easily be imagined. Still the slow tortoise won the race ; and whereas our navvy demands so many pounds of meat and so many pots of beer per diem. Ah Sin is content with a little rice, some fresh water, and, for his grand relaxation, a tiny pipe of opium.
The washing, as performed by the Chinese, is very simple. The ore is found at Laroot in a stratum of whitish clay, which is washed in long open troughs, water passing freely through, carr}^ng off the soil, and leaving the ore at the bottom, for it is prevented from running down the inclined trough by means of bars of wood nailed across the bottom, and against which the heavy grains rest. On this plan the Chinese seem in advance of the washing on inclined planes at the Cornish tin mines, the crossbars being a_ very efficient way of arresting the ore.
The melting process is very similar to that of the Malays, but more elaborated, and is carried out on rather a larger scale, and in place of the bamboo bellows a very ingenious plan is adopted. The trunk
M
''SARONG" AND ''KRIS."
m,
\K>V.
i
w-
i
m
ten
•of a tree about eighteen inches in diameter, and t<-, feet long, is carefully hollowed out, and closed at eith( •end. " A long pole with a circular piece of wood at ol •end, fitting exactly into the bore of the tube, acts as piston. In order to secure the tube being perfect! «.ir-tight, the end of the piston is well padded wii feathers. Valves are placed at each end to allow t] air to enter, and in the centre the nozzle of the ])t\\o\ •communicates with the furnace by means of a sm;; air-passage. On the piston being drawn out, the i\ in the higher portion of the tube is forced down t] nozzle, and on being drawn back the air in the furth' part of the tube is similarly drawn into the furnacf The charcoal is soon brought to a white heat, and the molten tin drips through, fresh layers of ore a] ■charcoal are added, the fluid tin being ladled out in the moulds akeady mentioned as being sometim adopted by the Malays.
The value of the tin exported in the seven ye£i prior to 1874 was upwards of a million and a quart sterling, this being the produce of thirty mines, must however be added that these figures we derived from native sources, and may have be exaggerated ; for Captain Speedy 's estimate of t produce for 1875 was in money value a million and half of dollars. Since then, however, the number Chinese miners has largely fallen off, probably consequence of the disturbances. Under a mc favourable system there is every probaliility of th<
GOLD WASHTXG.
35
mum kitiia
fi-V
being r* -ejected, and the works attainiug to great prosperity
Anyoi) who has had experience of tlie lamentably- slow procs of obtaining Cornish tin, and the vast sums of loney adventured \\'ithout result in that grm '^' insula, will see what an opening is here in I British ciipitil, e^specially as the climate
is li id Coohe labour comparatively cheap.
Much ore as the Malays of Perak lay by tin, they are not lud to the charms of gold, and, to tlieir tast*', it i l»e8t of a dark-red colour. It is no un- common ling, when journeying through the inti-rior, to "on a Malay, or even a boy, washing tho
soi' ome ancient flood. The ijuantity o])taincd
in iw, is necessarily very small; but still it
is to b<' M)cured, and the nearer the mountains an; apprnafh. the richer is the find ; of coui-se pointing to t there lies the matrix from which, by thr »n of the quartz, th<; gohl hax U'vu waHhcd
th de< How
f.H]
Bn
til) for sill nc
th;
in •
of the tin mines worked by tlur ChincHC, I the south, in the neighbourhood of tin-, ang river, the soil is first washed for the I aft<Tward« umhTgoes a second washing lich is found in small «jimntiticH, but Mtill repay the labonr. Ojm; peculiarity in (um with is that the gold is found at depths of fty feet below the surface, aud in variably ri with the trunks of large trecH, in «very
34 ''SARONG** AND **KRlSr
of a tree <about iM<xlitoon inches in diamotcr, and ten feet long, is carefully hollowed out, and closed ateitlier end. ** A long pule with a circular piece of wood at one •end, fitting exactly into the bore of the tube, acts as a piston. In order to secure th<' tube being perfectly air-tight, the end of the piston is well padded vnt\i feathers. Valves are placed at eai-h end to allow the mi to enter, and in the centre the nozzle of the bellows ^communicates with the furnace by means of a small iiii'-passage. On the piston being dra\\'n out, the air in the higher portion of the tube is forced down the nozzh,', and ou being drawn l)ack the air in the further part of the tube is similarly drawn into the furnace." The chtu'coal is soon brought to a white heat, and as the molten tin drips through, fresh layers of ore and -charcoid are added, the fluid tin being ladled out into the moulds akeady mentioned as being sometimes adopted by the Malays.
The value of the tin exjiorted in the seven years prior to 1874 was upwards of a million and a quarter sterling, this being the produce of thirty mines. It must however be added that these figures were <lerived from native sources, and may have been exaggerated ; for Captain Speedy 's estimate of the produce for 1875 was in money value a million and a half of dollars. Since .then, however, the number of Chinese miners has largely fallen off, probably in consequence of the disturbances. Under a more favoiu-able system there is every probability of theii*
aOLT) WASHING. 35
Ixnng ro-collectcd, mid tlu^ works attaining to great prosperity.
Anyone who lias had experience of tlie himcntably- slow process of obtaining Cornish tin, and the vast sums of money adventured without result in tliat granitic peninsula, will see what an opening is here in Perak for British capital, especially as the climate is healthy and Coolie lal)our comparatively cheap.
Much store as the Malays of Perak lay by tin, they are not blind to the charms of gold, and, to their taste, it is l^est of a dark-red colour. It is no im- common thing, when journeying through the interior, to come npon a Malay, or even a boy, washing the soil left by some ancient flood. The quantity obtained in this way is necessarily very small ; but still it is to be procured, and the nearer the mountains are approached the richer is the find ; of course pointing to the fact that there lies the matrix from which, by the decomposition of the quartz, the gold has been washed down.
In some of the tin mines worked by the Chinese, especially in the south, in the neighbouiiiood of the Batang Padang river, the soil is first washed for the tin ore, and afterwards undergoes a second washing for gold, w^hich is found in small quantities, but still sufficient to repay the labour. One peculiarity in con- nection herewith is that the gold is found at depths of thirty to forty feet below the suiface, and invariably in connection with the trunks of large trees, in every
D 2
36 ^'SARONO" AND "KRiSr
stage of decay — a fact pointing to the trcmcnflous Hoods that must liavc taken place at the time of the deposition of the metal.
In the north, one of our Govemment officials describes the neiglibourhood of the Krean river as showing a formation havning much the appearance of a gold-bearing country, such as he had seen in Australia, and offering tempting places for a prosjiccting-party to examine the junction of the gi-anitc and slate ; adding that, if gold were not found, the search would pro- bably result in the discovery of tin or some other metal.. That gold has been found in large quantities in the !Malay peninsula, is provetl ])y the vast number of old workings surrounding the base of Mount Ophir, to the north-east of Malacca ; and if with their pri- mitive ways of working, sufficient could be found by the people of bygone ages, modern appliances should result in securing a rich return.
On the eastern side of the Perak river itself, at a place called Kleian Bronsong, there is an alluvial deposit which yields gold, and it is washed out of the creek, during the rainy season, by the Chinese and Malays, who however are idle during the dry times, for want of water. Among other places on the Perak river where gold is found, washing of the deposit is carried on by Chinese at Campong Cherako, and there are several abandoned gold mines at a place called Chigar Gala, one of the largest villages on the river, and lying above the station at Qualla Kungsa. In fact.
HIDDEN TREASURES. 37
so abundant i.s gold, that before now tlio writer, wlicn w aiidoring about, lias with very little difficulty washed specimens of the precious mental from the river beds, Avhore it mostly occurs in little globular forms, like small or dust shot. Mr. Daly, the Gov(3rnmeut surveyor, who observed this during a journey taken to determine the northern boundaries of Perak, remarks that it would be interesting to thoroughly investigate these gold deposits, and describes the metal he has seen as beino- '^rouo-h and sliottv," and having the appearance of not having travelled far; while, judging from the quartz, slate, and other pebbles found in the river, he believes that the matrix will be found in the quartz reefs lying embedded between the granite and slate.
Enough has been said to show that plenty of traces of gold are to be found, little as the country has been explored. What stores the jungle-hidden streams, running up to the mountains, conceal in olden mines or untouched virgin pockets, time and the ceaseless energy of the Anglo-Saxon alone will show. As to the Malays, they are too accustomed to a laissez-aller style of life to make any energetic attempts to discover and work the metallic treasures, w^hile the efforts of the Chinese, with their primitive tools, are nor likely to greatly influence the yield of the precious metals.
Recompense of some description is almost certain to reward the explorer, for, as has been before remarked,
88 "S'UiOXG" AND ♦•A'/?/S."
the finding of a rich lode of metal of any kind is a reward nc^t to be despised ; and it is questionable whether the discovery of the Burra Burra copper mines in Australia was not a more worthy one than that of the gold ; while as to ]\'rak, if instead of metal a good vein of coal could be found, the finder would be a benefactor to the state.
CHAPTER IV.
The ancient knowledge of the mineral productions of Perak and the peninsula — Solomon's ships — Gold, apes, and peacocks — Opinions of early vrriters — Ophir.
British tin was an article of exj^ort to the islands of the Eastern Archipelago up to the year 1618, and it is difficult to trace the time when it was first dis- covered in Perak and the other portions of the Malay- peninsula. De la Loubere, the French envoy to the King of Siam, in the years 1687-88, wrote an account of that people, and he states that all the calin or tin in Siam — which country then embraced a considerable portion of the Malay peninsula — was sold by the king to strangers as well as to his own subjects, except that which was dug out of the mines of Jon Salam or Junk Ceylon, in the gulf of Bengal, "not above the distance of a man's voice from the coast of Siam," and where there is loadstone ; for this being a remote frontier, he leaves the inhabitants in their ancient rights, so that they enjoy the mines which they dig, paying a small profit to the prince.
JVIr. Walckenaer, the German traveller, thinks that
40 ** SARONG" AND "7v/?/S."
the word halah — calin — tin, was derived from the modern Quedali, tlic rortuguoso corruption of Kcddali. !^^a.sn^li speaks of the fourth sea of India — that of Kalah Jjiio or the sea of Sclaliat, which had shalh^w waters, and was full of small islands containing tin mines, where the natives used poisoned arrows ; an exact description of the straits of Malacca — and selahat is certainly the ^lalay for a strait.
The Arabian term cassidcr, derived from the Sanscrit bistina, applied Ijy the Phoenicians to tin, as in our own Cassiterides, or tin islands, off Cornwall, seems to imply that they derived their knowledge of metal in the first place from the East, or through the Arabians ; and tin is not found anywhere nearer to them than in the Indian Archipelago. These latter, in the Middle Ages, seem to have adopted the Hindoo term kala or qiuila for tin, although kasdin is the true Arabic. Our name tin is traced to the Malay word timah, but how this came to pass is not ver}- clear.
The Sanscrit kala literally means black, so that it does not seem necessary to go far to trace the application of the word by the natives immigrant from India, to the black mineral grains found as stream tin ; and its adoption by the Siamese and Arabians at a later day, to distingui.^h the tin of the Indian Archipelago from that of Great Britain.
Among other writers, Dr. Vincent, in his " Periplus," published in the year 1800, speaks of tin as being an import into Africa, Arabia, Scindi, and the coast of
riir: ancient knowlihhiI'L 4i
Mal;il);ir ; and ;is an article, of commerce broiiglit from Britain in all ages, and conveyed through the Mediterranean l^y Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans, to the Eastern seas ; but says it was only during the past few years that it had reached China in British vessels.
Of tlu! ancient history of the gold of the ]\[alay peninsula much may he said, for it has been famed for its production from all ages. This peninsula was the Aurea Chersonesus of the ancients, and althouf^h the evidence is not conclusive that Josephus is right when he says that the Mount Opliir of Malacca, some hundred and fifty miles south of Perak, and called by the modern Malays Gunong Ledang, is the Ophir of Solomon, there is much that is in favour of this sup- position ; and being a subject of such great interest, it may be worth while to investigate the c[uestion, even at the risk of being somewhat tedious.
It may be taken as a matter of fact, that from the very earliest ages there was intercourse between the Arabians and Malays ; and hence it is reasonaljle to suppose that the precious metal gold, would, with spices, be amongst the articles of trade. From the earliest times w^e know that the Arabians sent into Sabea both spices (frankincense) and gold, but whether the latter came from Sofala, on the east coast of Africa — the sea-port of the Mount Ophir of Bruce and Le Grande — or from the Mount Ophir of Malacca, is an open question. There is also, it should be added, a Mount Ophir, or the Golden Mountain, in Sumatra;
42 ''SARONG" ANT) " A'7?7.S."
Imt tliis may be left out of the argument, as the name was confi'iTcil upon it by Europeans at a comparatively recent date.
Lassen, the orientalist, has placed Ophir, the origin of Solomon's gold, somewhere about the mouth of the Indus ; and his hypothesis, says ]Mr. Crawfurd, is founded on some resemblance between the Hebrew and Sanscrit names of the commodities brouijht from this ancient spot. The nearest resemblance is in the words for an ape, that in the Hebrew being ko])h or kof, and in Sanscrit, hlj^i or Jcopi. Mr. Crawfurd, however, in view of all the difficulties connected with its geographical position, comes to the conclusion that the Ophir of Scrij^ture is simply an emporium where Solomon's fleet obtained "gold, silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks ; " and he fixes this emporium somewhere in. Arabia, either at Sabea, or at a spot on the southern coast. But as we read that the ships of Solomon " came to Ophir," it is more natural to conclude that they went to a place bearing that name, and not to a convenient emporium, where the gold of Ophir and the other commodities were exposed for sale. The question then seems to lie between the Ophir of the eastern coast of Africa and that of Malacca.
There are many things in favour of the mount in the Malay peninsula being that of Scripture, and the idea is supported by many wTitei-s. For instance, Dr. Kitto, in his Encyclopaedia, states that the natives of Malacca call their gold mines *' Opliirs ; " to which may
SOLOMON'S SHIPS. 43
be jultlcd, tliat tho Malays l)cing a decidedly non- progressive people, their term probably comes from time immemorial. De P. Poivre, a French author, writing in 1707, gives the same statement, adding of the natives of Sumatra — on y trouve lylusieurs mines cVor, que les Jmhitants de Malacca et de Sumatra nomment " Ojyhirs." He, too, adds that the mines of the ad- jacent places are richer than all those of Brazil and Peru.
AVhen we consider the objects sought, we find that they were apes, peacocks, i^'ory, and gold. Now, though the ape proper is not indigenous to the Malay peninsula, monkeys of large size abound ; it is the home of one of the most beautiful of the peacocks ; ivory, if not abundant, is procurable, for elephants are plentiful ; spices follow as a matter of course, for this is the very centre of the production ; and gold is worked to the present day. Gold, apes, and ivory are certainly found in Africa, but the other articles would have to be brouo-ht from the Eastern seas.
o
To go back to the ancients for support of the theories that Solomon's vessels may have traded with the Malays : Pliny tells us that Eratosthenes sjDcaks of Meroe, India, and the Thinoe ; and Agatharcides, a contemporary of the latter, about 104: B.C., says of Sabea, now Yemen, or "the blest": "The people are robust, warlike, and able mariners. They sail in very large vessels to the country where the odoriferous commodities are produced ; they plant colonies there.
44 ''SAItONG" AND " 7v'7i7.S'."
and import from thonce the * larimma,* an odour nowluTo else to Ite found ; in fact, there is no nation upon earth so wealthy as the Gerrhei and Sabei, a.s being the centre of all the commerce which pa.sse3 between Asia and Europe." The sam<4 writer also refers to the Maldive and Laccadive islands, and coupled with these is a reference to Malacca or the Golden Chersonese.
Accordiuir to Dr. Vincent, the Chinese had not then passed the straits of Malacca; but the Malays seem in all ages to have traded with India, and probably with the coast of .Airica, and he ends by saying' :
" All this induces a belief that in the very earliest ages, even prior to Closes, the communication with India was open, that the intercourse with that conti- nent was in the hands of the Arabians, that Thebes had owed its splendour to that commerce, and that Memphis from the same cause came to the same pre- eminence, and Caii'o succeeded to both in wealth, ixrandeur, and ma;::nificence."
If then, as this evidence would show, the com- munication with India and its isles was open before the time of IMoses, and in the hands of the Arabians, who from the earliest ages had an intercourse with the Malays, the inference that ciin l»c drawn from this may be left to everyone to judge of as he pleases.
There is, however, another significant point which favours the belief that the gold of Ophir was obtained from Malacca, for amongst the articles of export to the
oriiiu. 45
Rod Sea in the timo of tho " Pcriplus," wliicli gives au account of tlic navigation of the ancients, from tlic east coast of Africa down to Sofala, gold is not mentioned, but only " ivory, rhinoceros-horn, and tortoise-shell of a good sort, but inferior to tliat of India." Dr. Vincent, the last editor and exponent of the work, is so struck with this fact, that he confesses to feeling "some degree of disappointment in not finding gold, as the fleets of Solomon are said to have obtained gold from this coast." He however gets over the difficulty by saying : "Our present object is not the trade but the geography."
In later days — namely, in the fourteenth century — Barbosa says that gold was so abundant in INIalacca that it w^as reckoned by the bliar of four hundred weight. In 1615, also, we read in the State Papers that at Acheen, in Sumatra, the admiral's galley had a turret built in the stern, covered with plates of gold — a sure sign of the plentiful supply of the metal. Later still, in " Herbert's Travels," printed in 1677, he says that Malacca had the name Aurea given to it, on account of the abundance of gold carried thither from Menang Kabau, in the neighbouring isle, Sumatra; and again, Valentyn says, in 1737, Acheen exported gold by the thousand ounces at a time.
To come down to our own days : Mr, Logan esti- mated the total produce of gold in the Malay peninsula as twenty thousand ounces per annum only. This does not arise from the mines being worked out, but
4« "SAROXG" AND *'KIlIS:'
i'nmi tlic gnuliKil dcpopuhitioii (jf tlic couutiy, and the facile way in wliicli tin is obtained and sold by the Chinese, leading to the temporary abandonment of the search for the more precious ore.
Tn addition to this, the discoveries of gold in other parts of the world have taken off the attention of European Ciii)italists from the mines of ]\Ialaya ; and though an attempt was made recently to work the gold mines of Chindrass, near ^Malacca, the adven- ture failed from the want of mining skill and proper appliances. What is required for the proper develop- ment of the acknowledged valuable mineral resources of the peninsula is — as was some time since suggested — that a practical mineralogist and geologist should be sent out from England, to examine and give copious reports of the capabilities of the country, so as to draw public attention to it at home. This step has not yet been taken, but it is not too late to adc)pt the sugges- tion ; and the outlay on such a survey, if judiciously carried out, would be amply returned to the Govern- ment and to the colony.
CHAPTER V.
Vegetable productions — Fenis — Timber-trees — Indiarubber — Varied foliasrc — Flowers — Palms — Bamboos,
In few parts of the world are the wonders of the vegetable kiugdoni to be seen in greater perfection than in the Malay archipelago ; and Perak possesses its full share of these glorious productions, for the moist hot climate favours rapid growth, to an extreme degree.
On quitting the river-ways, and plunging into the jungle, the traveller is at once in a world of wonders. In almost every instance he is confined to the forest track, for the jungle is literally impenetrable. Huge trees tower up a hundred and a hundred and fifty feet without a branch, and then weave and interweave in the most extraordinary manner. These are the pillars and supports of creepers and parasites innumerable, among which the most prominent are the various varieties of the rattan cane — the common cane of the shops, but which here winds and runs to the length of two and even three hundred feet. A soft greenish twilight generally prevails in these dense parts of the
48 "SAROXQ" ASD ''KRiSr
foivst ; but wlicrc there are f)i)('ning3 that admit of tho sun, flowers — principally orchids — add their beauty to the scene.
Wherever a watercourse is found, there, with their lace-like fronds, tree ferns spring up to fifteen and twenty feet in height, drooping gracefully over the mossy rocks, and beneath them may be seen an abundance of the lesser variety of ferns, chiefly of the Pteris family. Soon, again, appear the beautiful quaint-blossomed orchids, principally the Dendrobium and Vanda varieties, hanging in rich clusters from the trunks and branches of the forest trees. The elk-horn hangs pendent in masses of many feet in length, and, deeper in the jungle, lycopodiums, and the many varieties of moss which flourish in moist situations, carpet the earth.
It is a carpet, however, that is untrodden ; for unless a way be cut by means of the heavy knife or parang of the Malay, progress even of the slowest nature is impossible, and the beauties of the ground orchids which spring up in the clearer spots are doomed to flourish and fade unseen. In these dense woods ebony Ls sometimes found, though not in any great profusion, and it is not used by the Malays. There is an abundance, though, of excellent timber for building purposes, ^^'^uch to a great extent is felled and squared by the Chinese. The chief of these woods — some of which are hard and very durable — are the marbow, and the damar laut, the maranti, and
IShlMlVBIiER AND OUTTA-PERCIIA. 49
tlio scrayali. 'Hicn^ iirc many utlicrs of udmiiablu (juality which it is uccdless to name.
One timber tree promises welh It is known Ijy the Malays as the seum. Tlicy say that if })laced over pik^s used for jetties it will resist the action of the teredo, or boring- worm ; for the worm, after devouring the wood attacks that of the ordinary piles, and is killed from the acti(jn of tlie acids of the two, and if tliis b(? the case it will be a valuable timber to possess. Further proof however is needed of its qualities.
Teak, though found at Penang and Singapore, and abounding in the jungles of Siam, oddly enough does not grow in Perak. There are plenty of fine durable woods, though, to make up for the deficiency. Neither has the camphor tree been found, though believed to exist at Salangore, but the gutta tree is tolerably- plentiful, and its curious gum is extracted by cutting down the whole tree, tapping it on the under side, and allowing the gutta to exude into vessels placed for its reception. This gum is frequently used by the young Malays to catch birds, forming a most glutinous bird-lime. The name by w^hich it is known in England — gutta-percha — many people may not be aware, is rather a redundant one, percha being only the native name for Sumatra, whence the gutta was perhaps originally brought. The indiarubber tree, with its glossy green leaves, is one of the many trees of the wood; but its juices are not com-
50 ''SAJiOXa" ASD "Kills."
J11011I3' c'xtnu-tod, tlioiigli iisi'cl also fwcasionally a« lurd-limc.
Oik; very hard Avood, calk-d by the Malays kamooiiing, is obtained from a slow-growing flower- bearing tree. It is of fine grain, takes an admirable polish, and is used to ornament the hilts of ki'ises, and to make into fancy or useful articles, such as boxes, cigar-holders, and watch-cases : the late rajah of a neighbouring state was a great adopt at turning this wood in his lathe.
It is no uncommon thing in the dei»ths of these jungles, as night sets in, to sec glades lit up with what seem in the distance to be so many pale lamps burning "vvitli a mild radiance, but which prove on closer inspection to be a very curious kind of phosphorescent fungi, of considerable size, the light being probably produced by their decomposition. At times too, during a journey, the native guide points out the ipoh, or upas tree, and announces that it is poisonous ; but the stories of its deadly nature are ajjocryphal ; and though the tree may possess poisonous qualities, beyond tradition the Malays seem to know vei}' little about it.
Another fiimous tree flourishes here, namely, the banian ; but, growing as it does in the dense jungle, where it luis to struggle for its existence in a very small space, there are none of the wonderful wide- spreading specimens such as are said to shelter a regiment on an Indian plain. To revert however for
WOOD OIL.
u momeut to tliu upas : it is perhaps too mucli to say that an approximation to its branches, or sleeping beneath its shade, may not Ix; higlily injurious, especially when it is an established fact that the poison alder of Virginia acts upon the skin, if ever sO' lightly touched, with the greatest virulence, producing all the symptoms of poisoning to a marked degree. The upas, however, does not seem to have been tested, and possesses perhaps a far worse name than it deserves.
The bombax, or cotton tree, is here in two varieties, but probably imported. The kayoo puteh, literally wood white, is a tree whose name has been corrupted into the cajeput of the Pharmacopoeia. It yields a very valuable green oil, which is used for medicinal purposes. Large quantities of wood oil, or kayoo- minyati, are also obtained by the Malays, by cutting a triangular hole right into the trunk of a forest tree,, and placing therein a cup or half a cocoa-nut shell. Fire is then appHed, and the oil is melted and drips into the cup. This oil forms a kind of varnish, and is used for the interior woodwork of their houses, and sometimes as a medicine.
One of the prettiest trees is the waringhan, vdXh. its birch-like growth ; it is a species of ficus, and deserves to be called the most ornamental in the peninsula, though the beautiful growths are endless, even as they are peculiar. Amongst the ornamental trees, though, must be classified those which blossom. One of the
E 2
52 ''SARONG" AND '' KRlS."
finest of these is called by the ^Malays dadrtp. It beai*s a beautiful flower of a brilliant scarlet, an«l is utilised lar<;elv in the coffee plantations of Java as a protection to the young trees from the ardent sun. Another blossoming tree is the chumpaka, of which there are two varieties, the one bearing a yellow, the other a pure white flower, and both diffusing — what is comparatively rare — a delicious scent. These are favourite flowers, and are often used — like the white blossoms of the jasmine and the sweet-scented star- shaped bunga tanjong — by the women to ornament their hair; while the natives of Incha in the peninsula offer them at the shrines of their god.
One of the especial features of the jungle is the beauty of tint and mottling of the foliage, and this relieves greatly what would otherwise seem sombre and monotonous. Almost side by side may be seen growing leaves of a bright yellow and others of richly- tinted reds, while close by arc displayed infinite variegations, in different shades, of purple mixed with splashes of white, as if all colour had been withdrawn from the leaves. Undoubtedly the beauty of nature's gardening in these eastern forests has had something to do with the taste that has of late set in for fuliaceous plants. The foliage, too, of the hill-sides in Perak is wondrously beautiful, displaying every tint of leafage, from pale yellow, through infinite shades, to the darkest green, with here and there clusters of bright blossoms peering out, amongst which may frequently
FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE. 53
be seen \vli;il is known ;is []u\ Vndc of tlio Forest, a blossom of a c1l'o[) re<l and yellow. Tln-rc is also the blossom of the kamooiiiiig tree, wliidi strongly resembles that of the oraucje, and emits as sweet a scent. Though no scented flower, there is a modest plant found occasionally that is a pretty and familiar object to every European, and takes attention when its tree-like relatives weary the eye. This is our adiantum, the pretty little maiden-hair fern, and it is principally found growing in the laterite clay iron- stone soil. The first discoverer of this little favourite is said to have been Archdeacon Hose, and the habitat was Malacca.
Though Perak can hardly be called a land of flowers, still there are many of very great beauty, and this want of gorgeous petals is made up for by the colours of the leaves. The orchids however are very beautiful, both the large parasitical and the ground varieties. The scorpion orchid — a wonderfully-accurate copy of the poisonous creature from which it takes its name — abounds, as does a magnificent creeper which would be a great acquisition to a European garden, from its rich maroon blossoms. Climbing plants are Yerj common in the jungle, running up the trees in a straight line similar to the strands of our close small-leaved ivy, and often to a height of thirty or forty feet. But perhaps of all the climbers the most striking are the nepenthes, or monkey-ciips, which are seen in every opening. Those grown in our hothouses
U "SARONG" AND '' KUlSr
pO()ily set fortli the beauty of tlie varieties of this .sin;,ml:ir ]tlaiit. Here they may be seen <;a'o\ving in <:-hi.st<?r.s of fifty or sixty togetlier, elos(» to tlie ground, ;in(l witli pitchers of ten or twelve inches in length. Others, again, are seen ascending the forest trees, sun-seeking from a shady spot. They are generally green, but variegated with purple and red, spe(*kled, splashed, and .striped, and many of them fringed in a most beautiful manner. Tlicy all contain water, many over half a pint in quantity ; but it generally seems to be of a viscid nature, and not tempting its a beverage"
Water-lilies abound wherever they find a suitable habitat in the lagoons formed by the many streams ; while the lotus is found in great perfection, sending \ip from its floating leaves its bright blossom-cups of red, blue, and silvery-white. There is a fine display of this plant in a small lake fronting the house of one of the native chiefs, at Bukit Gantang, • while these and the water-lilies lend great beauty to some of the smooth open reaches in the wikhu' portions of the countr}'.
Arums, and that beautiful plant the calladium, with its arrow-shaped variegated leaves, also play their part in diversifying the jungle. The sensitive-plant grows largely too on the peninsula ; and it has this peculiarity, that wherever it abounds it destroys the lallanu; "ra-ss — aknowledfjeof which fact ma v be of <]rreat service where the land is infested with this growth, for
PALMS. 66
fjoocl grass can readily l)c growu around the seii.sitive- pliiiit, after tlie lallaug is destroy(;d. The hibiscus grows to the size of a tree, and the gardinia flourishes well, its hirtje white flow(irs heiiif^: «:reat favourites with tlic Mahiys.
X llower-bearing tree, known as the Poindana regia, flourishes well here ; it is small in leaf, hut hears a magnificent l)loom, which grows in clusters on every bough ; in fact, like the azaleas of our ^reen-houses, there are often more flowers than leaves. Mr. Dunman, a former inspector-general of police at Singapore, introduced this largely into the town, where it now grows to great perfection.
The nipah-palm grows in company with the mangrove in brackish water, by the muddy shores, iind is often washed off to go floating about the straits, lookino- in the distance like a boat under sail. ' These
o
mangroves, whose singular roots have already been mentioned, have a peculiarity in their seed-pods, which deserves mention. There are apparently two varieties, the one having a seed something like a cocoa-nut, the other, pods of a large size, rather in the shape of a boy's skittle, but pointed at the l^ottom ; and so wonder- fully are these balanced, that as they drop from the. mangrove branch they fall upright in the mud, literally planting themselves, and rapidly taking root. Another very beautifid shore-loving tree is the ■casuarina^ which flourishes amid the sand, being a kind -of flr. It is peculiar for the way in which the wind
"SARONG" AND "KRIS."
B\*r]\H tlirougli it, reminding the settler of the old Scottish fir of fur iiway, with its roar oh of siu'ges iu its dark green crown.
Perak may be looked upon as a paradise of piilms, of which there arc many varieties. The nipah, which has just been mentioned, fringes the rivera up to tidal- mark, and forms the chief thatching material of the Malays, while its fruit makes a preserve. Then there are the sago, which is allowed to grow for about fifteen years, and then cut down to obtain the iiirina from the pith in its trunk ; the jaggar}', from which coarse .sugar is made ; and the areca, u slender, ver}' graceful tree, yielding the betel-nut, which the Malays chew for its stimulating qualities. The blossom of one of the wild arecas has a most delicious odour, and there are several varieties. The penang, or areca, is the palm which is utilised in a variety of ways by the Malays, its leaf-sheath affording them a horny material, which they use for water-buckets and baskets. The cocoa-palm grows luxuriantly, and fruits well at long distances from the sea. In addition, there is a rare variety which l)ears a cocoa-nut, whose fruit is l)ink instead of white. The gamooty-palm is alsover}' common, and the black fibres of this tree are of en«.lless use to the Malays, for making cordage, ropes, and the open strands with which they take their enemy the alligator. The most graceful of the family, however, is the nibong, which in beautiful clusters shades the jungle dwellings of the Malays, supplies
lAUruNU O.N I'KH-IK KIV» U.
BAMBOOS. r,7
tho posts for their houses, and is cut into strips to make their Hoors.
The various palms are the most striking features of the river-banks, and wherever tliey are chistered in an}" number there arc sure to peep out the pointed roofs of the attap-thatched houses. The wonder is that tlie hirge cocoa-nuts, in their great fibrous coating, and heavy falling leaves, are not frequently the cause of accidents to the children playing beneath them in the villages ; but somehow they seem to escape, for injuries arc rarely known to the writer as having occurred.
Next to the palms in value to the Malays come the bamboos, which graceful ornaments to the jungle, towering up like Brobdiugnagian grass, are utilised in a variety of ways : building, boat-making, raft -con- structing, and also for cutting up into various domestic implements. It is also of great service to the natives for their fences and stockades, and if used as a hedge it acts admirably, those that have been made about the settlements adding greatly to the attractions of the lanes and country roads. Fine clumps of bamboo add to the beauty of the river Perak, seen as they are, feathering against the pure sky. But great as is the beauty of this cane it has its bad qualities. The Malays use the large hollow joints to hold water ; but in its wild-growing state it is frequently the cause of fire ; for where pieces of large growth, or even plants of similar silicious nature, are in a position to
58 "SARONO" AND "A'«75."
!)(• IVcatLti and rubbed together by tlic ^vind, a serious junglo firo will often result. This no doubt tauglit the aborigines how to obtain fire by rubbing a couple of picecs together. The rotans, or rattans, have already been mentioned as among the great obstivcles to })rogre.ssion tlirough the jungle ; but to the Malays they are of infniite value, supi>lying them, when twisted by means of a lever, and then dried, with their strongest ropes.
CHAPTER VT.
Fruits — TheDui'ian — Mangosteen — Shaddock — Ananas — Bread-fruit — CaslieTT — Nam-nam — "Wholesome nature of fruits.
The fruits of Perak care almost endless, and embrace .some of tlie most delicious under tlie sun ; but many of them bear names that would be little better than puzzles to the reader. Some of the principal must however be given by their native titles.
Mr. Wallace, in his " Malay Archipelago," says that the durian, which he seems to have found in a great many of the islands, is the king of fruits, and the orange the queen. To give place aux dames, the queen of fruits does not exist in Perak at present ; but the country is eminently suitable for its growth, and those specimens which are brought in from Tringanu, on the east coast, are little inferior in flavour to those of St. Michael.
The king of fruits, however, flomishes largely, and is peculiar to the archipelago. It grows upon a large tree something similar to a walnut, ripe fruit and flowers being seen upon the tree at the same time ; and, as if
60 "SARONG" AND *' KRlS."
to startle the learned gentleman who is said to have refuted the atheist about the acorn, the duriau will grow as large as a man's head, is covered closely with terribly sharp spines, set hexagonally upon its hard skin, and when ripe and it falls, if it should strike anyone under the tree, severe injuiy or death may be the result. So fully awake are the natives to the danger of a blow from a falling durian, that in populous places they take the trouble to stretch nets at some distance from the ground, where a road or pathway leads beneath a durian grove, so as to catch the ripe fruit as it falls. Five faint marks exist on the shell, which show the line of the carpels, like those of an orange, and following these the fruit can be opened with a heavy knife. Inside there are, to each carpel or division, two or three seeds as big as chestnuts, and these are surrounded by a rich thick cream, upon the flavour of which opinions are wonderfully divided. The natives are excessively devoted tq it, and some Europeans declare it to be like a rich buttery custard flavoured with almonds ; while !Mr. AVallaci' says, "with it come wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion sauce, brown sheny, and other incongruities."
The writer's testimony is that it is, no doubt, to some palates a very delicious fruit or food, as it may be termed, but when over ripe, its odour is foetid to a deoree. The disafnrecable odour of this fruit has formed the basis of many an anecdote, and if
THE DURIAN. 01
one or two arc given ia passing, it is only what wcnild !)(' expected when tlie durian is mentioned.
A ]iii;li official, on liis way from England to China, was sumptuously entertained by the then resident councillor at Penang. This gentleman was a great admirer of the fruit, and had one of the very best his garden could produce placed upon the table. On his lordship being asked his opinion of it, he rej^lied sharply to his host : " It may have been very good last season, Mr. L., but, if you will excuse me, I would rather not venture on it now."
Ladies are supposed to look upon this production with extreme disgust, but get the credit of being very partial to it nevertheless. The story goes that a lady, the descendant of one of the old settlers of the penin- sula, made a confession in an unguarded moment, Avhen, being condoled with upon the question of having to go and live in a very out-of-the-way bungaloh, she declared she should not feel dull, for there would be plenty of durians there.
So strano-e and unwholesome is the odour of this
o
fruit, that it is possible it may possess the quality of temporarily destroying the sense of smell in those who partake of it ; otherwise this intense fondness for the fruit seems almost a mystery. It may be detected at a considerable distance, and about the nearest approximation to its peculiar smell is that of a brick- kiln when in full burning. The natives cultivate it largely, and esteem it above all others. An old writer
02 ''SARONC* AND " A7.'7.S.
says that tho Sinmoso would barter then* liberty to obtain it ; certain it is that a Malay would give a considerable portion of his day's i)ay to obtiiin one.
The mangosteen too deserves special notice, for its inviting appearance and delicious flavour. It is a fruit that would be highly esteemed in England; and the WTiter is glad to announce that plants of this fruit- tree which have been sent to British Guiana are now growing, favoured by the latitude ; and j)r<>lxibly by the time these pages appear will be in full fruit at Trinidad, whither they were sent. The distance from Demerara or Trinidad is comparatively so short that there is tho possibility of the mangosteen at length finding its way to an English table. This it is hoped may prove to be the case, as all efforts made by the writer, who tried various methods, failed to get the fruit home from Singapore in decent con- dition.
The pine-apple flourishes well wherever i»lantod, but grapes are only produced with great ilifticulty. The varieties of the custard-aj^ple, guava, pome- granate, alligator-pear, mango, and a numlx-r of native fruits, grow abundantly at the Settlements, and fruit-trees of many kinds are carefully planted round their homes by tht^ Malays. The pommeloe, or shaddock, flourishes well, but is an importation from the East and AVest Indies ; there are several kinds too of citrons and limes, while the jdantain, banana, or pisang, as the Malays c;dl it, exists in a gi'cat many
BREAD-FRUIT AND ('ASHIJW'. iul
varieties, tlie l)es(, known Ix-ing tliose bearing tbc names oi" tlie stonc^ gold, sweet, egg, king, sultan, monkey, and finger plantain.
Tlie bread-fruit is of two kinds, only one of wiiicli is edible, but it is not held in the same esteem as in the South Sea Islands. There is a pandanus too' which bears a fruit as large as a durian. It is a fine object in the marsh lagoons of Perak. The fruit is,. however, smooth, and not in fiivour with the Malays, though much sought after by the monkeys. Perhaps one of the most singular of the fruits of the peninsula is the cashew-apple, which abounds, and is remarkable- for being like two fruits in one ; an apple above, with the familiar kidney- shaped nut below. The dookoo is a large round fruit, and growls on a compal-atively small tree. The nam-nam, an acid apple-Hke fruit,, has the peculiarity of growing on the stem of the parent-tree ; while, for some unknow'n reason, the papaya is said to possess the quality of giving ten- derness to meat placed beneath its boughs.
A curious seed-pod growing commonly in Perak deserves mention. It is only a little over an inch from tip to tip ; but it is peculiar from its taking the exact shape of a buffalo's horns and frontal. It is one- of those freaks of nature that are so hard to explain, for in this case no possible reason can be assigned for its eccentric shape.
Very few^ cases of injurious symptoms seem to arise from partaking of fruit. There is one kind however,
04 "SARONrr' AND *" KRlSr
the rokam, which is vcr}'' unwholesome if tjilcen in an unripe state, and cases of death from its effects are not unknown amongst chiklren. When ripe liowever it resemhles a gooseberry in flavour, and though liard, becomes very pulpy on pressure, and is eaten in this state by the Malays and some Europeans.
The indigenous fniits of the peninsula are however almost endk'ss, and a full de?<cription of all would be far beyond the limits of this work.
CHAPTER VII.
Vcgctablc-foocI suiiplj- — Curries and tlicir preparation— Kacliang — The gourd family — European vegetables— Herbs — Indigo — Pepper — Gambier — Sugar— Coffee — Tobacco — Cinchona — Rice- gi'owing — Clearing the jungle— Medicinal and poisonous plants.
One of the first thinojs a settler thinks of in a new country is the supply of food to which he has been accustomed. When, however, the resident in Perak looks for the homely old vegetables of his native land, he is doomed to be disappointed. Still, if he be not too strictly wedded to conventionality, he will find that nature has, in withholding the produce of a temperate region, been prodigal in her supplies of that belonging to the trojDics. A stranger will look in vain for the simple potato, even though it was originally the growth of a foreign shore, for all attempts to cultivate it here result in the production of wretched little tubers not much larger than peas. In its place, however, there is the dry-eating, farinaceous yam, which flourishes abundantly.
The great dish of the east is curry ; but let not the reader imagine that it is composed with a dry
€6 ** SARONG " AND ''KTtlSr
yellowish powder, f<jr nothing is farther from the truth. The faet is, that the native curry more resembles the preparation for a sjilad, inasmuch as it is composed of vegetables in their gi'cen, or ripe state ; and it is surprising how many things are introduced into the savoury dish. One of the principal ingre- dients is the contents of the cocoa-nut, crushed with its milk into a pulp. Turmeric is grown, and largely used. The pods of the moringa tree enter into the curry, wliile its scraped root is used by Europeans as a substitute for horse-radish, which it strongly re- sembles in flavour. The fresh chillies and capsicums of the country arc considered indispensable, while the heart of the cocoa-nut tree, called cocoa-nut cabbage, is another ingredient, though often used as a salad, in which form it has a delicious nutty taste.
Under the name of hichang the Malays classify the many varieties of beans, peas, and vetches. These they commonly eat parched ; but, after tlie fashion of our gardeners with tlie sea-kale, tliey often imitate the Chinese plan, and grow some kinds in the dark, so as to make them tender for mixing in curries. AVe have there, too, a creeper, whose name is not known. It grows very readily, and its leaf strongly resembles spinach.
As might be supposed, all plants of the gourd family flourish rapidly. AVat^^r-melons come to great l^crfection ; cucumbers are plentiful ; and the ^Malays grow a large number of gourds, some of which arc
VEQETAliLE FOOD. 67
cdiblo, otlicrs useful for vessels for eiirryiiig water. Among otlier vegetables grown by tluj people are a kind of eili])le arum ; sweet potatoes ; and the bandicoi, wliicli grows on a. small shrub, bearing a flower like a hilnscus. This, with a curious three-cornered vege- table, eight or ten inches long, is much appreciated. The Malays have also a great affection for onions.
The climate is, however, capable of producing, and does produce where the Chinese have settled, pulse, radishes, and a coarse lettuce. There is also no doubt that many kinds of familiar English vegetables might be grown, if care were taken to study the suitable time for planting, and to protect the tender shoots from the sun. Much has been attempted, though little has yet been done. In the higher parts of the country, on the slopes of the mountains, would be the most suitable spots. A few enterj^rising gen- tlemen have made attempts in the Settlements, and good English peas have been grown. Upon one occa- sion a cabbage was produced that would have been an ornament to a Covent Garden stall; but that won- derful cabbage had been tenderly nurtured in a flower- pot, and was its owner's anxious and almost only care ; in Province "Wellesley, however, asparagus has been grown with success.
Herbs flourish, mint growing well in the country, and there is a leaf with the flavour of sage ; and when it is remembered that Perak runs from the low sea- shore swamps upward to the central hill-summits,
F 2
68 "SAIiONO" AND '' KRiS."
abounding in fertile soil, and plentifully supplied with water, it is evident that, by managi-nicnt, the fruit or vegetable of most parts of the world might be produced with ease.
Advantage has been taken of this by the growers of the various commodities which arc raised ui)on a large scale. Indigo has been tried by tln' C'hinese settlers at Singaj)ore with the most giatifying results. It thrives well, and its gi'owth is apparently free from the many difHculties wliich attend its production in India. The juice is used by the Malays, who have probably learned its value in dyeing from the Hindoos.
Pepper is a plant natural to the Straits, and flourishes well, but it has the pecuUarity of quickly exhausting the soil. The Chinese and Malays grow it readily, and it is a production that has a ready sale. Heat, moisture, and shade are indispensable to it ; and it may not l>e generally knpwn that black and white pepper are, like black and green tea, the produce of the same plant.
Gambier is likewise largely gi'own in the Straits, and would flourish well in poorly -cultivated Perak. It is produced from a shrub, whose leaves are picked and boiled down into a s}Tup, poured into moulds, and then cut into cubes when dry. It is largely used by the Malays for masticating with their betel. As a drug, however, it is veiy valuable for tanning pur- poses, containing, as it does, some fifty per cent, of
COFFEE AND TOBACCO. 6^
jtinv taiiiiiii. It is lliis (Irug wliicli is used to give the nets and sails of our fisliing-boats at home their cinnamon-brown colour. Cotton was tried in Singa- pore by General Cavenagh, and it grew with a fine long staple. It was merely an ex})eriment in a garden, and the plants suffered from blight, but it is one of the productions for which the soil of Perak is eminently adapted.
To continue the experiments that have been made, sugar may be mentioned ; in fact, so successfully has the cane been grown that a company is reported to have just purchased ninety thousand acres of land in the country for a sugar plantation.
Coffee and Java are so well associated in most people's minds, that it will be no surprise to say that the berry has been successfully grown in the peninsula. Tea culture is in its infancy ; but it has been satisfac- torily tried in the settlement bordering on Perak, namely. Province Wellesley, where the clove has also been grown. These have been but tentative matters, for, except by the Malays in their primitive manner, the soil of Perak, w^hich offers itself for the cultivation of these valuable commodities, has hardly been broken, and is in fact a wilderness of fertility, w^aiting for the busy hand of man.
Another plant too would flourish well in Perak, namely, the tobacco, already grown in small quantities by the Malays ; and judges of the soil suited for this aromatic production assert, that if the planters who
70 ''SAIiONCr' AND "A'7?/.s'."
lijivc so Hucccssfully aclventiirctl in growing it just across tlie Strait at Deli in Sumatra, liad first seen the land on the banks of the Pcnik, they would have had by preference their plantations there. At the present time the Deli cigars hav(^ found their way into the Engli.'^h market, where they jiromise to be formidable riv:ds of the well-known jiroductions of Manilla.
Cinchona, the tree fi'om which quinine is obtained, should also be tried, as a paying cultivation, for it has succeeded admiiably in Ceylon, India, and the neigh- bouring isle of Java. Most of these are growths that may be looked upon as ex[>eriments — though such jts arc almost bound to succeed. It is however only fair to refer to a failure — namely, an attempt to reintroduce that valuable spice the nutmeg. This has been tried without much success at Penang and Singapore, and no adequate reason can be assigned for the very extensive failure of the plant about twenty years ago. Perhaps Perak may be found the happy medium, lying as it does between the two settlements.
Amonf' the reticular cultivations of the state, rice must stand first, forming as it does the staple food of the Malay. Wherever padi-fields are planted off the banks of the rivers and drain-canals, the rice is grown with veiy good results, while the waving fields of sugar-cane and maize plainly show that the general cultivation of these crops might be as well carried out in Perak as in Province Wellesley in the north. Here
BIOE.OBOWING. 71
llie sugar estates have for years past realised the most hapi)y results.
The rice-growing is of two kinds — namely, the wet land and the dry land. The latter on the hill-sides is exclusively the native method ; but for the wet growth the Malay is indebted to the Indians who settled in Sumatra, and from whom this mode of irrigating the fields and producing the rice spread through the peninsula. After the land is prepared, the grain is not sown after the fashion of corn in Europe, but in nurseries ; and when the tender young plants are eight inches high, they are lifted and transplanted, after removing the tops, being placed in clusters of. six or eight, pretty closely together, in the field ready for their reception, and in rows one foot apart.
The Malays are good agTiculturists, but do little until they are obliged, being of a listless idle nature ; and they suffer from the eflects of one of our old policies — namely, that of discouraging rice cultivation, and letting them trust to the importation of this staple from places farther south.
The plough used is a primitive afiair, drawn by buffaloes. It is a heavy pole, with a wooden fork to act as coulter, and a bar of wood inserted at an oblique angle by w^ay of handle. The clods are broken by dragging over them a heavy beam, and the land is harrowed by means of another heavy beam full of spikes. The sowing in the nursery and planting out are generally performed by women, who, when the padi
'"SARONO" AND "KBiS."
is ready, cut it off about six inches below the ear. This tliey do sometimes with a sickle, but generally by means of an ingeniously-contrived little instru- ment, by whose action, aided by the fingers, the rice- stalks are severed iis if by a pair of scissors, leaving the stems in the gatherers* hands. The husking of the rice is contrived by means of a tin-bound pestle and a mortar, and the woman's difficulty is to regulate her blows so as not to crush the f^rain. An ini^enious American machine has for some time been introduced into the peninsula, consisting of a heavy shaft with pegs or cogs, which alternately raise a series of pestles, or stampers, which fall in as many mortars, and so husk the grain. The Chinese also have established primitive machines driven by water power.
Tapioca is largely cultivated in the peninsula, and it would grow well in Perak, but at the present ruling prices it would hardly be a paying adventure. In fact in forming plantations here, as in many other parts of the world, the labour question is the great difficulty. To meet this, however, there is the hope that Coolie emigration will still l)e fostered by the Indian government ; especially as now every safe- guard has been made for the protection of labourers, and for their return to their homes ; in fact, every provision that could satisfy the most hypercritical on such matters. The present Indian famine could not, of course, have been foreseen ; but had greater faci- lities been given for emigration from India, many of
CLEARINQ TEE JUNGLE. 73
tliosc tcnihlc (loMtlis from starvation might liavo Ix-cii averted, while thi- native states of the peniusuhx wouhl liave been correspondingly improved.
Tlie tlourisliinii: growth of citroneUa and lemon- grass, from Avhich essential oils are extracted, must not lack mention ; while the question of grass naturally suggests pasture-land, which is somewhat wanting, for this is no home of grazing cattle, like the park-like stretches of Australia. There is however a great variety of grasses in the peninsula. Capital sweet nutritious meadow-o-rass is grown at PenanG: and Singapore, upon which both horses and ponies thrive well ; but the grass generally of the Settlements, except in Northern Perak, is not particularly good or fjittening for cattle.
In connection with the clearing away of the jungle, and preparing the ground for cultivation, there are one or two curious points to consider. One is, that if the tall trees are cut down the brushwood should be left, or its place supplied with some other growth, otherwise miasma is likely to rise and produce fever. Secondly, the action of nature is so rapid that, in clear- ing away the trees and brush, or, as the Malays call it, tahas-tahang, no more should be cleared than is required for use, otherwise the ladcing will run into lallang. In other words, the cleared but uncultivated land will be speedily overrun by a rank grass {Grameii caricoswn) the roots of which are more expensive and difficult to clear away than the jungle that previously occupied
74 '*SAI10NG" AND "KJilS."
the soil. This gi-ass is so plentiful, and so overruas the country, growin*; in some places to a height of five feet, that it is a pity tliat it cannot he turned to some manufacturing account. It is said to maktr fair paper, but its success in this way is not yet publicly known. The Malays, however, use it for thatching, and cattle- bedding, and stuff their jnllows with its flowers : here liowever its utility ends.
Like the inhalatants of Java, the ^lalays have a good notion of what vegetable jiroductions are avail- able for medicinal purposes. Unfortunately, too, their knowledge ha.s extended strongly to poisons, and the ]\Ialay women have the credit of a great insight into those infusions which produce death.
Amongst the medicinal plants, the fresh roots of the male pomegranate is, as an infusion, a specific where a vermifuge is needed. For chest complaints, a jelly is made from a sea-weed called agar<i(jar. It is mixed with sugar, and not at all unpalatable ; but the Mtdays jirobably owe the knowledge of this pro- duction to the Chinese immigrants, who bring with them no lack of medical knowledge : in fact their preparation ttf jieppermint is an almost universal medicine, and invaluable in its properties.
One little slirub, called tulvee, which is in favour with the Indians for plaeinn: mar the irraves of the departed, has a black seed which when mixed in water gives out a kind of white pulp. This is held in great esteem by the natives for its power in cooling
POISON OU a PLANTS. 75
the hlood, and is often taken witli liinojuice iind sugar. Among the poisonous plants, the daturah is common in the peninsuhi ; and it has been remarked that when a person is under the effect of its poison, lu' constantly observes his fingers, and keeps passing his tliumb over them in a most peculiar way.
In a district like Perak, however, where over the greater part of the land nature reigns supreme, these notes of the vegetable productions arc necessarily very far from being complete ; they are, however, the result of observation, and show the reader how lush must be the growth of this tropic soil.
CHAPTER VIII.
Xoxious animals— The pythoTi — Varieties of serpent— Lccchen — The tortoise and turtle — Dangerous saurians — Government rewards — Fish and fishing — Various methods.
Self-preservatiox is so truly the first law of nature, that it is ouly natural for a visitor to a far-off foreign shore to eagerly inquire as to what noxious creatures are there, and dwell especially upon the reptiles; for the travellers' tales that have been brought home, res- pecting the acts and deeds of huge serpents, that crush buffaloes in their folds and then swallow them, have bi'cn as startling as those relating to the rapid and fatal action of the poison of the smaller snakes. Perak being a land of moist jungle, with large swamps and lagoons, lying beneatli a tro}»ic sun, naturally possesses its noxious reptiles ; Init as these creatures, like almost all wild animals, hurry away from the step of man, accidents are very rare.
When it is stated that boa-constrictors are said to be found to the length of thirty feet, they might reasonably be expected to be the most alarming of the peninsiUa reptiles, but they arc rarely seen, and are
THE PYTHON. 77
for the most piirt claugnroiis to f(j\vls. In fact, tli(; writer shot one tliat had invaded liis fowl-house in Labium, and gorged itself to sueh an extent with poultry that, like the mouse of the fiible, it could not crawl back by the hole through which it had entered. Tliis creature was eighteen feet long, and nearly as thick as a man's leg. That pythons grow to excep- tionally large size there can be no doubt, but twenty feet may be taken as the size of a well-grown specimen.
One of the keenest sj)ortsmen in Singapore gives an accomit of a monster that he encountered ; and also instances that the boa feeds occasionally on larger prey, wdiicli it can seize and crush. He had wounded a boar in the jungle, and was following its track with his dogs, when on penetrating farther into the forest, he found the dogs at bay, and advancing cautiously, prepared for another shot at the boar. To his surprise, however, he found that the dogs were baying a huge python, w^hich had seized the boar, thrown its coils round the unfortunate beast, and was crushing it to death. A w^ell-directed shot laid the reptile writhing on the ground, and it proved to be about thirty feet long : but such instances of extreme leno-th are verv rare.
There are some fifteen or sixteen different kinds of snakes — and many of them beautifully marked — ■ known to the Malays, who however look upon them with the greatest unconcern, knowing from long ex- perience that their nature is to crawl rapidly away
78 *' SARONG" AXD " /v'A'/S."
into the jun«:fl('. They vary, from a little viper re- seniblin;^ an English adder, to tlie Ijlack cobra, which is as miK'h a-s five feet in length. These cobraa rescmbh; those of India in their spectacle markings, and the peculiar manner in which they puff out the neck, and rise up on the lower portion of the body; but, poisonous as they are, the Indian convicts in the Settlements will seize them by the tail with one liand, and draw them ra])idly through the other till the fingers grasp the neck, when they allow them to twine round the arm. There is one little serjient though, about eighteen inches in length, and peculiar in its shape, as it is equal in size from head to tail, these extreme points l)eing wonderfully alike. This is believed by the ^lalays to be extremely poisonous, and is more di'caded than the black cobra ; but injuries from snakes are very uncommon. For the cure of snake-bites the common people use a stone which, though not the bezoar-stone, is said to possess the qiudity of adhering to the wound and imbibing all the p(jLson ; though a European would probably jDrefer the ajiplication of ammonia and strong internal doses of l)randy or whisky, to increase the action of the pulse, and arrest the horrible stagnation which appears to be one of the consequences of serpent venom in the blood.
The principal food of the smaller serpents is un- doubtedly the frogs of the marshy parts. These reptiles abound, making a deafening noise after a shower. Their little gi*een relative of the trees, with
LEECHES. 70
his suckcr-furnislii'il f<;et, nuai'ly emits a faint pipe; Imt he is fur more active than his ground companions, nnd is a pretty ohject anii<Ist the h-aves. Amongst the pests of the moist pkices of the jungle are the leeches ; for these creatures, directly the eartli trembles with the step of m;in or beast, stretch them- selves out in savage hunger — or, it should be said, thirst — and by some means or another manage to make a lodgment upon the body of him who passes through the woods. Perhaps their presence is not at first felt, and they may not be discovered till the journey's end, when a bath reveals the little monsters crorored with their sanguinary repast. How they manage to get up a man's trousers-legs is a puzzle ; and the only way to keep them at bay is to tie the trousers tightly round the ankle, place them inside the boots, and freely anoint the latter with lime-juice, which the little pests hold in especial abomination.
Tortoises are often seen in the swampy places ; one of them being a curious reptile with a soft shell, a large snout, and very quick movement ; scuttling away in a very difierent fashion to its shelly com- panion, who calmly pulls its head and legs inside its case, and waits until the dano-er that threatens is past. Their relatives the turtles abound off the coast, and especially about the Dinding Islands. One of the smaller isles is chosen by the turtles for the purpose of laying their eggs, and they come and go with the greatest regularity, a few Malays inhabiting
80 *' SARONG" AND " KlilS."
the place sj^ecially for the collection of this egg harvest. In the uoighbuuring stiite of Quedah they are so abimdant that they are made a Government monopoly. These eggs are about the size of those of a bantam, but have a soft leathery skin, while the contents have a peculiar a.stringent Havour ; but they are looked upon as a great delicacy. The turtles off the shore are very sluggish in their movements, and may at times be seen lying asleep on the calm surface of the transparent water ; when a clever swimmer will approach cautiously, turn them back downwards, and then float them ashore boat fashion ; for when turnc*! they are as helpless at sea as on land.
Among lizards is the beautiful flying species, with its curious extensive web, and one known in Perak as the iguana, which it resembles ; but it is only about eighteen inches long, and it is commonly called a blood-sucker, probably because it never sucks blood. There are also numbers of smaller lizards, which are very rapid in their movements, and the decided enemies of the flies. In fact, one of the favourite proverbs of the Malay is derived from the deliberate manner in which the lizard seizes its prey. It answers to our JjnUufestina lente, the hasten slowly of moralists' pens. The great dangerous saurians are three, and known to the Malays as the gouro, frog, and copper species. These alligators abound in the rivers and estuaries ; and occasionally a death or serious injur}- occurs through an incautious approach to a river-bank
DANGEROUS 8AUBIAN8. 81
where tliey are known to jibouiuL Their favourite liahittits are near the mouths of the rivers, especially the Jurumas and Bruas, on the coast.
These re})tiles run up to twenty-five feet in len«i,th ; but are then heavy and sluggish of movement, and bear no comparison for (hmgerous qualities with those of twelve or fifteen feet in length, which are extremely powerful and rapid in swimming. It is no uncommon thing for the Malay boatmen to warn their passengers, when going up a river, not to hang their hands over the sides, as people often inadvertently do, to feel the cool fresh current pass between the fingers, for an alligator will often snap at the hand ; one sweep of the powerful tail sending the creature with a rush throuoh the water.
An instance was known to the writer of a man being seized across the loins by one of these creatures, which tried to drag him into the river, but he had presence of mind enough to thrust his fingers into its eyes, when the agony caused the monster to quit its hold. Travellers with sporting proclivities have ample opportunities for a shot at them, as they lie basking on the mud in the mangrove swamps ; but it is a great rarity to get one, for they immediately rush for the river if wounded, and sink dii-ectly, while very often their scaly hide saves them from injury. They are not seen very far up the river, seeming to like an occasional visit to the brackish water, or even a cruise now and then out to sea.
82 *'8AEONO'* and ''KRlSy
The Malays liave a .stiinulus oflcred tlicm by Government for the dcstmction of these reptileB, in tlie shape of a leward of twelve dollars for every one taken, even as fifty dollars are offered for the destruc- tion of a tiger ; but without this premium they have a d<'adly hatn-d for the dangerous creature, and are ver}' ingenious in their plans for its destruction. They make a large hook, very ingeniously contrived, so that it shall not be disgorged, and attach it carefully with ligatures beneath the wing of a white fowl. Expe- rience has taught them that the alliijator can break a chain, and bite through an ordinary rope ; so they tasten the hook to a rope composed of loose strands made from the gamooty palm. Then, after securing one end of the rope — which is of a pretty good length — to a tree, they picket the fowl to a peg on the river l.iank ; the whole process being like setting a bank- runner for j)ike in an English stream. The alligator generally takes the unfortunate bait, swallows it whole, and returns to the river, to find that the loos«^ strands of palm-ropo go between its teeth, and cannot be bitten through ; and the end of the monster is that it is ignominiously dragged from the river by a dozen Malays, and despatched. This is fishing on a large scale and to some puri)Ose, for the alligators are a dangerous pest.
The Malays are, however, fi\mous fishermen ; their amphibious life making them adepts in anything con- nected with river or sea. And this is in nowise
J'lSJI AND FISHING. 83
Hiir[)ri.sin<T^, wlieii wc romcmber tliat fisli in some form or anothor is one of the staples of tlieir simple food. Give a Malay fish, salt, rice, and the fruits lie culti- vates near his liut, and he is content, especially if he can in addition obtain a little Java tobacco. If he cannot, he is content with his own rough growth, which he rolls up into a large cigarette in a piece of palm-leaf sheath ; or else smokes with no little enjoy- ment out of a pipe made from the short joint of a bamboo for bowl, and a stem composed of a thin shoot ; while, should he be at a loss for a light in the jungle, he can obtain it by rubbing the sharp edge of one piece of bamboo on a notch cut in another, the sharp piece sawing through and the dust igniting inside.
Fish of infinite variety abound in the rivers and pools of Perak ; and frequently, after heavy rains, small drains and ditches that have been fishless are to bo found swarming with small kinds of five or six inches in length, offering themselves for capture by the boys and women. For not only is fishing an occupation with the Malays, and a means of getting their livelihood, but one of their favourite amuse- ments ; and it is no uncommon thing to see an old lady, venerable in years, come out of her hut, armed with, bamboo rod and line, and sit and fish for hours, generally with pretty good success. Her take will generally consist of what the people call the ikan samhilang, or fish of nine, so called from the number of barbs at its head. This fish abounds in the ponds
Pi "SARONO" AXD " KRlS."
near tho rice-fiokls, and in tlie running streams, and is a l)ig-h('a(lL'd fellow, something between a burbot and a gudgeon. It is a great favourite, and a<lds a relish to the frugal meal of the captors.
F<»iul as both sexes are <>f rod-fishing, the Malays make frequent use in their rivei's of the small seine or drag-net, whose lower edge is loaded with weights to keep it at the bottom. Their way of using it is much the same as at home here in Endand, in dra^sin^r a small river or pond. It is stretched across from side to side of a river, and then cautiously drawn to the bank,' great care being needed to prevent the escape of the fish. During the disturbances at Perak, while the troops were quartered at Qualla Kungsa, the Deputy-commissioner l)ecame an adept in the use of the drag-net, catching some good bags of a kind of perch, which formed a very agreeable variety to the sameness of the up-country mess-table.
The cast-net is also known to the Malays, and this they throw with great dexterity ; but they are not always so straightforward, from an English point of view, in their fishing, for they not unfrequently poison the fish in convenient places, in a very poacher-like fiishion, using the root of a creeping shrub called toohah. This, like cocculus indicus, has the property of drugging the fish, which eat it with avidity, and then come to the surface, and are easily taken by hand. This same root is largely used by the Chinese for destroying insect life amongst their growing plants ;
SHOOTING FISH. 85
and after souk?, I'ffort, the writer has succcodcd, through lilt' Iviudiiess of Singapore friends, in getting it safely to the Botanic Gardens at Kew, where it is now flourishing.
The Perak streams most probably contain trout, and they abound in curious examples of fish life, some of which are remarkably brilliant in their colouring. One little fellow is of a brilliant scarlet, with a broad band of brioht blue across its sides. Another is re- markable for its pugnacity ; for if a couple confined in separate bottles or globes are brought near to one another, they commence with a severe examination, and end by setting up their dorsal fins, and butting at eacli other fiercely, like a couple of piscine rams. Perhaps the greatest curiosity of all, though, is the little shooting-fish, which, if kept in confinement in basin or tank, will sail round and round, firing a water sliot every time, like a shell from a tiny cannon, at any mifortunate fly or ant that may be on the side of the fountain or basin, or upon an overhanging twig, and this with good aim, till the insect is brought down and swallowed. When three or four of these little creatures are in the same basin, they will fire in turn, one after the other, with singular regularity. They are prettily marked black-and-white fish, some three or four inches long, and principally found in Siam, but are not uncommon in the waters of the peninsula.
CHAPTER IX.
Sca-fish — Delicacies for the tabic Condiment or caviare— SlicU-fish and pearls — Coral groves- Tlio Malay fisherman- Tlic -kij>jack — The kaylong.
The sea lia.s its curious fisli off tlic Malayan coast, CDC of which, the ekau buntal or |)il]ow-fish, is very common. It is beaked somewhat like a parrot, and has the power of inflating itself into a globular form when alarmed or touched, an act which sets up all over it a wonderful array of spines. It has, more- over, the peculiarity of being vocal, for when touched it emits a sound somethiufj between a jrrunt and the hoot of an owl. The ISIalays never eat it, but when it is taken with other fish, they shake it out of the net upon the sea-shore, where it may often be found in all stages between life and death.
As in other parts of the world, it is to the sea that the common people look for their best sujtply of fish for food. Of those which .are Ijrought to the tiible of the European resident in the Settlements, the principal are the tungeree, the red mullet, and the pomfret — a very delicious fish not unlike a tiirbot. There is also
SEA FISH. 87
I lie tongiK'-fisli, wliicli somewhat resemljlcs our .sole, tlioiigli very different in flavour. Prawns, shrimps, crabs, and cray-fisli are. plentiful. Both rock and river oysters may be had, but they are elongated in shell, and not equal to our ]iatives. The mussel, too, is not unknown. i
As a matter of course the fishing-grounds of Perat are not developed, and thus during the investigation of the country, little besides a kind of gray mullet could be obtained ; but north and south in the settled parts the waters teem with fish. Among other kinds, a little smelt is brought in, a delicious yellow fish with a silver stripe along its side ; a kind of skate ; sharks, especially the hammer-headed, abound, and the smaller kinds are caught and eaten, being frequently exposed for sale. Salt fish is much eaten by the Malays, and that caught and dried at Salangore, under Chinese direction, is admirable as a relish, and quite as satis- factory as the fish-roe of Siak, Avhich is always obtain- able in the markets. To the lovers of the duriau — that is, people who do not object to peculiar gaminess of flavour — may be recommended for a relish, with curry, the blachang of the Malays.
This favourite condiment is generally made by the Malay fishermen on the sands, where, in a kind of bag, they trample semi-putrefied shrimps and prawns into a mass, salt it, and keep it. Tastes are various, and this odorous compound is much in favour. These fishers are fond of collectinsf shell-fish from the sands
88 *' SARONG" AND '' KRlS."
after the tide lias gone clown, very mucli as it Is done \\\)(m our own sljores ; facts which jilacc the civilised and the uncivilised nations very closely together in this respect. In Perak they gather quantities of the little donax, and it is no uncommon thing to see a ^falay down upon the sea-shore busy with a kind of hook and a bag or basket, going cautiously over the; sand till his well-trained eye lights upon a peculiarly- shaped hole, when the barbed iron is thrust down and one of the familiar razor shells, or solens,is dragged out. In such waters as there are here, a few steps in the direction of oyster-culture must have abundant results. The pearl-oyster exists, but it is not now sought for. In bygone times, fully a century back, the Malays had the reputation of being great pearl-fishers ; but now theii' pearls, some of which are very fine, are obtained from those of their nation who trade from the Moluccas. They make a curious assertion respecting this softly- lustrous gem, and that is, that if pearls are kept together in a box they will increase in number ; a fact (?) this that might prove valuable to the possessor of a few good specimens.
Allusion has been made to the beauty of the submarine groves of coral, but the pen fails in any attempt to describe the wondrous scene spread out beneath him who gazes" down through the limpid water in the neighbourhood of a coral reef. Zoophytes of endless gi*aceful forms and lovely tints are glowing in these strange groves, where sea-anemones S2>read
sea-snakes. 89
their life -destroying petals, and large medusae, from a foot to eiglitocii inches in diameter, float or navigate slowly the clear depths below. The rainl)ow-like tints of these stiug-armcHl creatures are glorious in th(! sunshine ; and the beholder often pauses to ask himself why was all this beauty bestowed upon such lowly works of the Creator's hand. But ere the c[uestion has well been formed, other creatures of beauty glide by, in the shape of the brilliantly-marked fish which make these submarine c:roves their home. It is off these coral-bound reefs that sea-snakes may often be seen writhinsr throug^h the water, many of them five and six feet in lenfi^th. It mio^ht be imaofined that the power of the sun, and the intensity of the light shed through the crystal waters, had something to do with the brilliancy of tint and strong contrasts of the scales of the fish. Stripes seem mostly the fashi<jn, for many of them are of the perch family ; and vivid yellows and scarlets are boldly contrasted with velvety blacks.
The Malays wdio live near the coast will frec[uently proceed for many miles out to sea, when bound on a fishing excursion. The canoe used is very small, and will contain two at the outside. It is navigated by means of a paddle and a matting sail ; and the Malay, armed with his line, hooks, and bait — generally shrimps — goes off" quite happy and content for his long trip. He usually protects his head w^ith a circular hat made from the nipah-palm, and ornaments it with, a
00 '\SAItONa" AND "KTilS:'
shaving-bniHh-like tuft of the Mack fibres of the gumooty. This hut is panisol as well, and screens his head and shouldors from the vertical rays of the .sun. In ilic .stirn of the little craft a orooved wooden
o
upright is placed, for guiding the line ; while, when great depths are fished, a small windlass is contrived for ease in getting it up.
At times the object of the .Malay fisherman's attentions is that curious specimen of natural histor}-, the skipjack (caraiix) ; a long snipe-beaked fish, which may often be seen playing along the surface of the smooth water, dartino; out, and then bobbin tj alontr for forty or fifty yards upon its tail, hardly seeming to touch the surface as it propels itself along. The !Mahiy will set sometimes capturing these strange fish, or their smaller relatives — the poopoot, with thirty or forty baits around his boat, at the end of float- furnished lines.
The people have a proverb relating to this fish — *' Ikan todo lungar Siugapora" — to the effect that some day or other it will force a landing on Singa- pore.
It is sometimes dangerous to bathers ; an instance having occurred off" the coast, in which one of these fish darted into a man's mouth, and it was with no little difficulty that it was withdrawn when the bather was brought ashore to a planter's estate.
Cockles are a favourite article of diet with the Malays. These little bivalves seem to have abounded
SllllLh I'lSII. 01
on the west coast for ages. As was before intimated in the allusion to the geographical features of the country, these shells are to he seen in the ]Mu(la district, Province Wellesley, in enormous mounds, twenty to thirty feet in height. How they came there is a puzzle, and one which some competent geologist may perhaps unravel. The only theory that su<>!]:ests itself to the writer, hut far from satisfies him, is, that at some early date before the elevation of the country, these must have been points where the currents of river and sea met, and there swept up together the fish that were plentiful near the shore.
Mention of that singular relic of the Old-world crustaceans, the king-crab, must not be omitted. It is exceedingly like the picture of that curious fossil the cephalaspis, or buckler-head, and its shells are very common on the shore. It forms a part of the food of the Malays, but to a European it is rather iin objectionable-looking creature, though not more so j)erhaps than the cuttle-fish, which are great favourites with the Chinese, for whose especial benefit they are often caught and dried.
Of the shells generally — sea, river, and laud — the writer was unable to obtain any information, and his stay in Perak itself was too limited in duration to enable him to include them in his researches. This is the more to be regretted, as it is cpiite untried ground, where fine specimens could be obtained. A large selection made by the writer in the Straits and
92 ''SABONG" AND "KlilS:
Lal)uan, and rivers south of Pcrak, l^ecamc merged ill the collection of tlic late Mr. Cuming;, of Cower Street.
Mention lias Ixcn made of tlic manner in which the Malays use the ordinary drag and casting nets for the capture of fisli, but they liave a more wholesale way of obtaining their finny prey, by means of what may be look('(l upon as an extended fish-traj). This is the kaylong f>r fishing stakes, which are planted in the shore, so as to run out sometimes as far as half a mile. In fact, at the British settlements, these rows of stakes would jjt^come a dangerous interruption to navigation, were it not for the vigilance of the officials, whose duty it is to prevent their too great increase. Kaylongs have been in use from a very distant time, but whether invented by the ^Malays, who are one of the gi'eat fishing families of mankind, it is not easy to say.
There is no reason why it should not have been one of their customs from the earliest ages, and if it was, it is a strong proof of their being the jjeople who migrated to Arabia and Africa, and were mentioned by Herodotus, as catching fish in " nets extended along the shoals upon the coast," " whose habitations were formed of the bones of the whale, and to whom fi.sh rather than bread has ever been the stiiff of life." But though this may all be said to be true of the " Icthyophagi," it does not necessarily relate only to the Malays.
The kaylongs are made of hurdles composed of
THN KAYLONG. 93
strips of l)ainl)oo, some five feet long, fastened closely together witli rattans, which are nearly as useful and stronfj as so much wire. These hurdles are attached to stout stakes driven at intervals into the sand or mud of the shore. The fish swim over these hurdles at high water, but as the tide recedes, their progress seaward is stopped by the water ftilling below the top of the bamboos, and they try to eftect their escape by an opening left in the fence, but this only leads into a square enclosure in which a net is kept lowered. Over this enclosure a small covered shed is constructed, in which the men work who raise and lower the net.
At times these kaylougs, which are used in common by both Malays and Chinese settlers, are contrived so that pointed bamboos are arranged in the opening to the enclosure, so as to allow the entry of the fish, which on trying to escape are repelled by the points, just as they are in our own waters in the ordinary fish-f)ot or trap of wickerwork raised and lowered in the Thames weirs, to the puzzling of many a fat eel astir when the waters are up.
CHAPTER X.
Insect pcsls — Strange beetles — The leaf insect — Fireflies — A Tartar — Fine field for the entomologist.
(Ink of the great i>csts of tropical lands ^^•hich are Avi'll Avatered is undoubtedly that pci-severing little creature, the mosquito. It has puzzled every tra- veller, from time immemorial, how to account for the fact that, no matter how much energy he throws into his hlows, he rarely can strike one ; and at last, from Ix'ing angrily aggressive, he assumes the passively defensive state, taking refuge behind mosquito-cur- tains, and leaving the virulent little insects to lay siege to his fortalice.
In jiassing, a few words must be said respecting the insects of Perak ; and the mosquitoes may weD stand first, from the way in which they insist upon making their presence known. They abound in tlic country, some of them being of ver}' large size ; but the most virulent is a small striped variety, banded with black and white.
Cicadas of the noisiest kind and grasshoppers are
INSECT PESTS. or,
])l{'iitiful cuoiinli in the- plains, the latter hcing much Koiight for by the INlahiy youths for feuding their larks and (|uails. They catch them very readily by means of a little instrument of open rattan-work. Tliis is formed something like a child's sea-side shovel, only larger, and is used with great dexterity l)y the bo}^s, who arc licjlit and active in the extreme.
Scorpions are j^retty abundant, and those un- pleasant-looking creatures, the centipedes, some of which seem to possess pedal appendages enough to merit the term of thousand legs, while the ants are some of them enormous. One black kind is from one- and-a-half to two inches in length ; but these are not seen in laro'e numbers too'cther. There is the termes, or white ant, and the biting red ant, called by the Malays krcmgga. This little creature makes its nest between the leaves of trees, rolling them up and socuring them with, gluten, and is much dreaded, from the severity of its bite, which is as bad as a severe nip with a pair of forceps. It is fortunately not poisonous, but forms one of the principal suj)plies of that curious acid in use amongst photographers, and known as formic. Spiders naturally abound, and, judging from journeys through the country, the ento- mologist might collect many new species. Flies are also abundant. In fact, in this unexplored region there is open ground for lovers of every phase of natural history ; and the stag and rhinoceros beetles would alone form a collection. Every marshy place
96 **8AB0NG" AND ''KRlSr
is wonderful fur its varieties (jf dragon-flies, flitting about on their gauzy wings, and some of them are of very great beauty, wliile the hornets are of immense 8iz«', the largest the writer has seen up tlie eastern archipehigo.
But for brilliancy of colouiing, the butterflies and moths bear ofl" the palm. Their colours are lovely, and in the moist, sunny openings of the jungle, they flap along on wings painted with the most refulgent dyes. The capture of some is veiy difficult, from their l"fty flight ; but the merest t}T0 may net an abundance of the beautiful moisture-loving specimens, not excej^ting the great Atlas moth, which Ls found in high perfection, many being nine and ten, and even twelve, inches across their wings.
Leaf insects have often been described ; but probably the custom existing here in the Malay peninsula has not been noticed — namely, that of keeping them in little cages, as curious specimens of natural history. They are found about a*n inch-and-a- half long, and are singular for their exact resemblance to a leaf. Beautiful as these leaf insects arc, they bear no comparison to a remarkable species which the writer has found hauntuif; the trees of one kind only. It is less than two inches in length, of a lovely gray, liberally spotted with red. Its flight is the most wonderful quality of the insect, for it goes from tree to tree after the fiishion of a bird. Attempts to bring it to Europe have as yet failed, but, as far as
FIREFLIES. 'J7
ciin 1)(> made out, it is an insect quite new to col- lectors, and peculiar to this part of the world.
Perhaps one of tlic most beautiful sights in Perak is a niangrove swamp on a soft, still, dark night, when the fireflies are out in myriads, flashing from leaf to leaf, and darting like brilliant sj^arks from tree to tree in showers of light. Every here and there they settle, and then seem disturbed, when the coruscations of tiny stars are perfectly wonderful. Every fly seems to send out its light in pulses or throbs, like the flashes from a signal lamp ; and so great is the beauty of this scene that the lover of natural history would deem it alone worth a journey to the east to see.
There are plenty of destructive insects, one of the worst being the carpenter beetle, which is so in- dustrious in its habits that it will riddle the beams of a building, if of wood that finds favour. Numerous accounts of its evil doings are given, the Grovernment bungaloh at Malacca having suffered very severely. Doubtless, however, remedies for these insect pests could be found.
We were especially fortunate in our travels in Perak in not coming across a fly said to be peculiar to the peninsula. This insect is not unlike a cicada in form, but it has been furnished by nature with a long and sharp proboscis, with which it can inflict a wound that gives the most acute pain. On one occasion the writer was passing through the jungle at the foot of Mount Ophir in Malacca. The party was progressing
98 "SAHOXG'* AND '* KBlS."
in F,u\fr\c file, and voiy slowly ; Un- the loador, a Malay, had to mako use of his parang, or heavy wood-knife — which answers to the machete of the South American — to cut a way throuj^d) the tan<i;led undergrowth and rattans. Suddenly the foremost man uttered a ciy of pain, and darted aside, a movement followed by the others in succession; and before the Europeans of the party, who stood in the position of " ready," could ask the reason for this peculiar flank movement, three of the Malays who had been pierced by these insects were brought to us, with the i)roboscis a])parently left in the wound. The remedy resembles that of our sailors, who, no matter what the injur}% apply a little tobacco ; that of the ^Malays being a little of the lime fonned from burnt shells, and carried about with them for chewino; with their betel-nut and leaf. Efficacious it mav have been, but, like the infallible nosti-ums for toothache, it evidently did not cure the pain instantaneously.
For students of entomology there are endless objects asking the collector's hand ; and though the writer is unable to call attention to many insects that might l)c considered peculiar to the Stite of Perak, so great is the extent of totally unexplored ground — tracts ap|)arently never yet trodden by the foot of man — that doubtless a very valuabl; entomological collection might be made.
CHAPTER XI.
Birds — The Argus ]ihcasant — Cooey — Fatal crowing — Quail — Pea- fowl— Tlio peacock of the Old Testament — Artificial hatcliing — Talking birds — Pets — Humming and sun birds — Birds of prey.
This is not the land of the wondrous birds of paradise, whose brilliant plumes rise from beneath their wings, and curve down like the waters of a golden fountain ;; but Perak possesses an avi-fauna of very great beauty, and even a cursory survey of the countr}'' displays its richness in this respect. For this is the home of the glorious Argus pheasant, mth its long extending tail and largely-penned wings, each quill of which, with its extremely broad web, is dotted with a row of eyes, similar to those on the tail of the peacock. This pheasant is rarely shot, on account of its nocturnal habits ; even the practised hunter of the country only shooting perhaps one or two in a long course of years. It is, however, occasionally trapped ; but if taken alive, soon pines and dies. The Malays call it " coo-ow," front its peculiar shrill cry. It is unmistakable when heard in the jungle solitudes by night, the writer often
H 2
100 "SMiOXrr' AND "KHIS."
recognising it, cOs the hirds called one to the other in the up-cduntry when lio was camping out. This cry is almost exactly the same its that of tlie jacoons — the orang-utan, or wild hill-men of the country ; the reader Ix'ing warned not to suppose that the huge ape of Borneo is here meant, orang-utan being Malay for wild man. It seems probable that the jacoons have adopted tlic call from the bird ; while a remarkable fact is that this cry — " coo-ay " — boars a wonderful similarity to the " coo-ec " of the Australian savage. The cry of the argus i)heasant when once heard Ls never forgotten, from its imjjressiveness in the still night. There has always been great difficulty in bringing it to England alive; and this is probably due to the fact that its habits have not been properly studied, for it is essentially a night-bird, and if care were not taken to afford it shelter, failure would probably result.
There is another very handsome jihea^ant, namely, the peacock, or ocellated, and also one re.seml)ling our own, but with a short tail, in the forest in which the jungle-cock abounds — a beautifully-feathered bird, the l>robable ancestor of our game-cock The pugnacity of this latter causes his ruin ; for residents of shooting proclivities, or even those who like an addition to their table, take advantage of the bird's habits, and picket an ordinary ^lalay game-fowl in their boat when going up the streams. The tame bird's challenge soon rings out, and is answered, when jungle-cock
QUAIL AND PEAFOWL. 101
after juiiglo-co(tk is tcmptc.d (jut of tlic safe solitudes, and falls a victim to the gUD.
Quiiils are pretty plentiful, and there is a variety of the plover and partridge. As to snipes, they abound in the low grounds, and a pretty good shot is sure of excellent sport. During the Duke of Edin- burgh's visit to the Straits Settlements he made a tremendous bag in Province Wellesley, this being a sport for which' no preparation in the way of beating or selecting warm corners could be made, His Royal Highness having to take his chance, as would any other sportsman — a fact which shows the abundance of the birds.
Peafowl form a magnificent addition to the birds of Perak. The male is not the ordinary peacock of Ceylon and Southern India, but the variety known as the Javanese ; the principal differences being that it is a little smaller, that instead of rich blue, the neck is covered with green scale-like feathers, and that the crest is different in form ; but the train is equally large and beautiful. Altogether it is a magnificent bird, and the flesli when eaten proves to be delicate in flavour and quite tender ; for this there is the authority of Mr. Wallace.
This presence of the peacock in the peninsula, as already referred to, appears favourable to the theory that Solomon s vessels traded to the Eastern archi- pelago ; and when it is taken into consideration what tremendous distances the praus of the present day
102 *'SAROXa" AND *' KRlS."
journey, the surprise is le&scncd. It may l>e argued tliat Soloinou's ships must necessarily have l)een small and ill-made. So are the present-day praus, some of -wliich, however, are of seventy tons burden, and wholly made without a scraj) of iron, pegs and rattans taking the place of bolts, while the sails are composed of matting, and such a thing as a compass is unknown. There is, however, one great argument in favour of the .sui)position that Ophir was the present-day Oi»hir of Malacca ; that argument is supplied by a consideration •of the lanfniage.
Prior to Pliny, in the first centuiy, histoiy does very little to help us to a conclusion ; though the important statement that a^jcs and peacocks formed pai't of the cargo of Solomon's .ships, supports the theory that the journey was made rather to India or Malaya than to the east coast of Africa. To get over th<^ difficulty it has been sought to translate the Hebrew word "tukyim " or " tuchim " (peacock) as re- presenting a parrot ; and Crawfurd says that the Persian word " tota " or *' toti " (pan'ot) has a very near resem- blance to the Hebrew word ** tuchim ; " and he adds that, as parrots can bear longer voyages than pea- cocks, it is more than probable that we have in this the right interpretation of the wonL
Dr. Kitto, too, says : *' It is a <]uestion more of geographical and historical than of biblical interest to decide whether the "thukyim" (I Kings x. 22) and **thukyim" (2 Chronicles ix. 21) denote peacocks.
D0ME8TI0 FOWLS. 103
.strictly so cillcil, or some other species of aniiiiul oy l)ir(l ; for ou the sohition of the question in the athr- niative depends the real direction of Solomon's fleet, /. e". whether, after passing the Straits of Jiab-el-Mandeb, it proceeded along the east coast of Africa towards Sofala, or whether it turned eastward, ranging along the Arabian and Persian shores to the peninsula of India, and perhaps went onward to Ceylon, and pene- trated to the great Australian, or even to the Spice Islands." Dr. Kitto believes that the rendering^ of "tukyini" — peacocks — is correct. There are, as known, only two species of true peafowl, namely, that common in India, which is the one familiar in England, and that just described as existing in Perak.
Now it is a sino-idar fact that in the lano^uaoe of the Orang Benua, or wild men of the peninsula, the word for peacock, which in the modern Malay is "marrak," is in the aboriginal "chimmarak;" and here we have the exact termination of the Hebrew " tuchim " in the language of the very people who must have lived in the peninsula and near Mount Ophir in the days of Solomon, namely, the Orang Benua, or men of the country. This name for a bird — " tchem " or '' chim " — is mentioned in a report given only a short time since by Mr. Daly, who collected a number of common words from the wild people during a tour throuo-h Perak.
o
The Malays cultivate domestic fovrls pretty ex- tensively ; principally, however, on account of their love
lui "S'mONd" AND ''Klilsr
for cock-figlitin<^. Tlieir cliampions arc evidoutly tne j)rogC'iiit(jr.s of the liartl, closc-feathcrcd, liigli- .shouldurcfl ^lalay cocks of our poultry-show.s ; but these hitter liave beeu so bred U) points l)y dealers and fanciers that they arc veiy different in appearance. Tlicy have also a peculiar breed of fowl on the penin- sula, which is remarkable for the manner in which its feathers turn out the wrong way. Varieties of this have been exhibited in England.
13oth ducks and fowls are plentiful in Pemk, l)ut not to the extent thev mi^ht be : owin^ to the indifference of the people, who look upon any })rancli of industry as soosa, or trouble ; much of which, how- ever, is due to the uncertain tenure of the land, and the oppression of their chiefs, who take tithe to an alarming extent. The Chinese settlers, though, take advantage of the nature of the country, and breed ducks extensively, and their plan is singularly suc- cessful. The " Heathen Cliinee " does not trust to maternal solicitude, for the eggs are placed in sand or husks of j)adi, and are then submitted to artificial heat ; and the difficulty here is to assimilate this heat to that of nature. AVlien hatched, the ducklings are fed with prawns, bits of crab, and boiled rice ; and being hardy little things they are in a few days able to look out for their own supplies, when they are turned into small enclosures contiiining pools of shallow water, and as they grow older are removed to more extensive pasture-grounds. \i\ old Chinaman generallv acts
TALKINd imihS. 10.3
tlic [);irt of iii.imma, and tin; way in which the little troops ot" du('klinf!;s know him and obey his call is veiy amusing. Jlundrcds may be seen in one (^closure, and the Chinese are often encountered followed by droves of the downy little things, which arc being taken probably to now feeding-grounds.
Domestic pets are common amongst the Malays, who are very clever at catching birds by means of horse- hair nooses and springes — snipes being one of their favourite captures — and also by imitating their call. By this means doves and pigeons, some of them very beautiful, are readily taken ; the juice of the gutta or indiarubber tree being sometimes used as bird-lime, as before intimated. These doves are kept in bamboo cages. There are two varieties of the minah in Perak. This bird is said to be the best imitator of the human voice of any known, and hence it often enters into captivity. The Malay boys are exceedingly clever with the " sumpitan," or blow-pipe, and with this they are too apt to destroy the best songster of the peninsula — the Straits nightingale ; and they are also very apt at capturing the tiny little green and blue red-ljeaked love-bird — a small species of paroquet — which swarms in some of the forest trees. These, after capture, they imprison in an ingeniously-made cage, formed of strips of bamboo, arranged in a circle and bent over to a point, tied and furnished with a hook at the top ; a bamboo perch, and two short joints of bamboo for containing rice and water are secured within ; and the
106 *' SARONG'* AND '' h'RiSr
clever little construction, with a pair of prisoners, can ])C readily bought for coins representing twopence of our money.
One of their pets, which, like some of the doves, becomes very tiime and fctclies large prices, is a l>ird they call " baru-bani." It is of the size of a dove, but like a greenish-brown thrusli, and s])eaks with great distinctness.
The ornithologist would find an ample field for his researches, the beauty of some of the birds being especially worthy of note, while their more sober- plumaged brethren are remarkable for their habits. On the rivers, wild ducks and teal are plentiful, while from the overhanging branches dart kingfishers of the most brilliant hues and of the largest size, such as make our pretty English specimen a quietly-painted dwarf in comparison. Several of these, however, arc not fishers correctly speaking, as they live on insects. The beautifully-crested hoopoe is common in the forest, and so tame that it will readily approach the traveller, while its beauty will perhaps prevent its tameness from being " shocking " to him, as in the case of Alexander Selkirk, according to the poet. Every here and there magnificent toucans, with their apparently cumbrous but cellular bills and gorgeously- painted gorgets, are to be seen hop^iing from twig to twig, while literally abounding, and making the jungle echo with their shrieks, the long fork-tailed collared paroquets flutter amongst the trees. These are very
nuMyriNa and sun hi in is. 107
l)oiiiitifiil birds, and with their delicate green feathers and l>rilliant coral-tinted Ijcaks, form conspicuous objects in tlic jungle.
Those brilliant little f^'ems the hummin<T:-birds are not absent in the open sunny glades, where flowers open their tempting petals ; while those almost equally beautiful objects of nature, peculiar to the Eastern archipelago, the sun-birds, with their scaly plumiige of gorgeous metallic hues, arc as frequent in their search for the honey of the blossoms. On some of the forest trees the nests of what are there called tailor- birds — probably the sociable grosbeak — are seen, deli- cately woven out of grass and cocoa-nut fibre, hanging from the boughs and forming a very curious feature in the scenery. While speaking of nests, the limestone caves of the coasts must not be forgotten. These caves are the resort of the bird's-nest swallow, whose peculiar glutinous nursery is sought for in the most dangerous places by the Malays, who obtain it l)y means of bamboo ladders. Their idea is that the eiuten which hardens into the nest is obtained from
o
the sea-foam ; and probably some kind of seaweed does afford them the material, A\'hich by a natural process, similar to the production of beeswax, is first formed and then built up into their nests. It is of course well knovai that these nests are regularly harvested, and form an object of trade with the Chinese, for their bird's-nest soup.
Apparently so many distorted relatives of the
108 *'SARONQ" AND "A'/?/.S."
toucans arc the hornliills, wliiili, in spite of the monstrous proportions of their l>iil with ita large upper story, arc wonderfully active Ijiids, and use their apparently clumsy beak with great dexterity in seeking fruit. Two or three varieties, one being very large, are found here. The writer has not seen their nesting, but it is so remarkable that ^Ir. Wallace's account thereof is well worthy of note. It seems that the nest is formed in some large hollow of a tree, and at the time of incubation the male bird plasters up the entrance hole with clay, merely leaving an orifice sufficiently large for the hen bird to be fed ; and this attention to his mate, and afterwards to her one oflspring — which is at first a great gelatinous-looking creature, a shapeless fcatherless lump, as big as a pigeon — is scrupulously performed.
One very pretty little object is the grass-bird, which seems to stand on the top of a thin featheiy stalk by a swamp, but which all the time is balancing itself by means of the rapid motion of its wings. The buflalo-bird, with its wattle like a minah, is common, and hangs about the large bovine quadru|x*ds in sciirch of food, as the starling does at home ; which is also strongly called to mind by the constant presence of the familiar old chirping sparrow in his black cravat, whose note is for all the. world the same aa may be heard at early morn in a London square. There is the little Java sparrow too, with its drab-speckled feathers and tiny reddisli beak ; while in nearly all
I'ADI-nfli'DS. 109
marshy ground, many Viiriotics ;irc seen in flocks of tlic. so-rallod ]);i(li-l)ir(l, witli lierc and there, in the water-lioles and swamps, the little elusky moorhen, and very fine herons watching f(jr the small fish, with cranes and rails; while especially in Perak and Quedah there is found a wading-bird, said to be common in Egypt and Palesthic — perhaps the " porphyrion" of Kitto. It has a hard crimson shield upon its forehead and flesh-coloured legs ; the head, neck, and sides are of turquoise blue, shading ofl" into a dark but brilliant indigo. The natives tame it with ease ; and among other places, the writer has frequently seen it stalking about the gardens of the Hon. Mr. Whampoa, one of the principal Chinese residents at Singapore.
The padi-birds are netted by thousands and eaten by the Chinese as a delicacy ; for, as at home, the birds flock together at certain seasons in search of food. One very pretty instance of this is at the time when the waringhan tree, already mentioned for its beautiful clustering blossoms, is covered with red berries. These form an attraction to thousands of tiny birds, which at daybreak seem to keep the tree in a perj)etual twitter, as they busily flit from spray to spray. These small birds of the jungle are not without their enemies, for there is a pretty plentiful supply of hawks to check their increase. These are for the most part very similar to the ordinary sparrowhawk of England ; while in turn they have an enemy that attacks them bravely, in the shape of a bird of the crow family ; with long
no "SAROXG" AND "KRlSr
rackct-shapod produced foathers in its tail. It is a liiindsonu; bird, of an intense l*lack.
Very commonly at evening a l»ird familiar at home is seen in the shape of the night-jar, which, after sitting for some time motionless on a branch, after the fashion of its kind, like a lump of feathers, sweeps round the tree in an easily-performed circle and returns to its perch witli one of the beautiful moths or beetles of the jungle. Similar to this bird ill marking, witli its brown-mottled feathers, is the ordinary owl of the peninsula ; a bii'd which again recalls home by its familiar aspect. By day the hollow trees resound with the busy hammer of the woodpecker, which also seems to belong to Old England instead of this tropic shore, so simple and quiet is its plumage and familiar its well-kno\Mi sound.
The eagles of the country have been alluded to, l)ut not the vultures, which are of a very familiar t}'pe. They are encountered on the river-banks in Perak, of very large size, with enormous claws, and are evidently birds of great power. On one occasion the writer came upon a group that had been attracted by the l)ody of a dead buffalo, which after being carried down tlie stream had been washed ashore. The birds were ftasting on the carrion, while, fi'om time to time, one of those singidar animals — the pangolins, or scaly ant-eaters, was making a run at them, the animal
/.7///^s' or I'llKY. Ill
cvidoiitly rcRcntiiig tlic intrusion of the vultures, who inlcrfcnMl with his feast of rarrion-flies. As for {]\o. vultures, they took hut little notice of the aggressoi-, merely moving a little aside, and then resuming with bill and claws their disgusting banquet.
CHAPTER XI [.
Malay buffnlocs and their domestication — The elephant — Deer — Wild- hoar - The ^lulay hear— Black leopard — Tiger and trapping — Monkeys — Domestic animals.
The Luffaloes mentioned in the last chapter are a large heavy kind of ox, domesticated by the Malays. There are two varieties, called the white and black ; but the former is more of a pink tint. They are used by their owners both as draught cattle and as beasts of burden. In the rice-fields it is a common thinor to see them yokc<l, and drawing the clumsy plough to prepare the soil, a rattan cord through their noses being the general way of leading tliem. When attached to one of the long, narrow, roughly-made country carts, they can draw very heavy loads ; but in this task they are rarely yoked in pairs, on account of the narrowness of the roads and the width of 'the buffaloes' horns, the points of which are more than four feet from tip to tip.
When used as a beast of burden, the buffalo's load is arranged as a pack, placed in a pair of rattan panniers on either side of the great animal's back.
DOMESTIC BUFFALO. 113
This is tlic custom in llic more imfrcquont(3d parts, where a track for a cart is seldom seen. The IjufFah) lias tremeiulous strength, and is very enduring, tliough exceedingly slow, and the animal is much petted and caressed by its Malay owner, great care being taken to keep it clean ; though, like our domestic friend the pig, nothing delights a buffido more than a good roll and wallow in one of the mud-pools by the padi-fields. When drawino- burdens the buffaloes are often un- yoked to bathe in the rivers and streams they pass, while an awning is stretched to shield them from the power of the sun ; and to protect them from those pests the mosquitoes, a fire is lit by night, of which the great beasts are sagacious enough to take full advantage, for they always go to leeward, so that the smoke may blow all over their backs and sides. No doubt the rollinsj in the mud-holes is an instinctive proceeding, so that the mud may cake over them, and thus form an effectual armour aoainst the flies.
The great strength of the buflfalo renders it a for- midable adversary to the tiger, and its encounters with this beast when wild or in the forest paths have doubtless been the origin of one of the principal sports of the Malay — the buffalo and tiger fight, of which an account will be given in a succeeding chapter. Gentle in the extreme with their owners, and greatly attached to their young, which at times they wdll carry from place to place on their back, buffaloes seem to have the same dislike to anything w^hite that our English
lU "SARONO" AND " KRiS:*
bulls arc said to have for that which is red ; and this makes an cncount*'!- with them, when grazing in a herd at a distance from a village, rather an unpleasant thing for a European. For at the sight of a white face they lay back their horns, raise their muzzles, and make ready for an attack with wonderful rajiidity, the whole herd charging in a way that would sUutle a square of infantry. With the Malay.s, on the con- trary', the word of command, or a pull at the cord from a boy, is quite sufficient to ensure obedience, though instances have been known of a native being gored from maltreatment of some unusually ferocious bea-st.
The natives seldom use the milk of the buffalo, though it is doubtful whether it does not at times find its way into the milk of the ordinary domestic cow which is supplied in the Settlements to the European residents — these cows, like draught bullocks, being im- ported ; and it is a fact worthy of note that the trooj) cattle, principally bulls from Que<lah, used dming the progress of the little army through Perak in the dis- turbances, suffered a great deal from foot-and-mouth disease, the remedy used being tuiineric and salt.
The flesh of the buffalo is veiy unpalatable and tough to a European, but the Malays have a great likinfT for it, and consider the flesh of the black to be preferable to that of the pink variety. Upon the occasion of some special festival, it is customary to kill a buffalo, when pretty well the whole of a village will take pai*t in the proceedings. So valuable is this
.1 PIEOE OF STRING. 115
Ix'ast l() Ji Malay that tlioir code of laws contains special references to it, and the forfeitures to be made for losinj; or killin<x '^ borrowed buffalo, or for being tlie possessor of one that is vicious, and has done injury to personal property. Theft of a buffalo is a serious crime. Petty thefts amongst the Malays are rare, though it is no uncommon thing for the in- habitants of one village to make a raid upon tlic dwellers in another who are weaker, and carry off their herds — a form of cattle-lifting which, with several other points to be afterwards mentioned, links them singularly with the northern clans of old. As for the lower-class Chinese that have settled in the states, they are most expert thieves, and will steal cattle whenever they have a chance.
There is a story told of one gentleman of the pigtail w^ho, while suffering imprisonment under the native Government, Avas condoled with by his friends on account of the severe sentence inflicted upon him, for, according to his own account, merely picking up a piece of string, which he thought might prove to be useful. It turned out, however, that the piece of string was the nose-cord of a buffalo, and that it w^as attached to the animal, with which Ah Sin had walked off bodily.
There are droves of these buffaloes wild in the country, and also a variety of the family more resembling our own ox, but they are not often encountered ; neither are the troops of wild elephants,
I 2
lir, *' SARONG" AND '' KRiS."
which are in the more remoto fastnesses of the jungle. The supply of tlicse huge heasts, though, that has been obtained by the native chiefs, is derived from the forests. A full account of the capture is unnecessary, as it has been given so often in works of travel. Suffice it that the great quadruped is taken much after the same fashion as in Ceylon and Siam, namely, by driving it into a strong enclosure of bamboos, and then stal)liug it with a steady old elephant, to which it is attached by stout ropes of rattan. The supply of food is made yctj mcagi'e for a month, but kindness is tried as well as coercion, the animal being jx'tted and fed with stems of the plantain, sugar-cane, with other succulent dainties, and cakes. Elephants are pro- verbially fond of bathing and syringing themselves with water from their trunks, so the wild animal is allowed to go down to the river after a few days, but of course strongly secured to his tame companion. Then begins a struggle for freedom,, but it results in the tired beast giving in and going back quietly to his old bonds in the stable, where he is once more securely fa.stened.
This process is kej)t up, with the addition of a man occasionally getting upon his back and walking upon him, till the elephant submits to the mind, and owns by his passive ol)edience that he is conquered ; though he cannot be thoroughly trusted for perhaps two years, during which time he is frequently troublesome, and requires the society of the female to keep him in
I'EKAK KLKl-UA.NTb.
THE ELEPHANT. 117
Older. After this an elephant is considered safe for any nialioiit to manage. These nialiouts are very often men of good position. They sit, as in India, upon the animal's neck, with its great flap-ears acting as a protection, and drive by means of a sharp iron rod provided with a hook — an instrument that is some- times used in the case of a restive elephant with terrible effect.
Every elephant has his own familiar name, and the mahout has its history quite by heart; and while fondling and talking to the animal, will frequently remind it of the various striking episodes in its life.
The howdahs, as sliow^n in the engraving, are very different from those of India, being really nothing more than panniers of rattan, over which sometimes a tilt is stretched on canes. Eaw hides are placed beneath the howdah, to keep it from fretting the elephant's back, and it is then secured by bands of rattan, which are formed into girths passing behind the animal's shoulders and before his hind legs ; and the howdah is further kept in position by a rope round the chest, and one in the form of a crupper. The basket is then pretty w^ell filled with leaves, over which a cover is placed, and the rider mounts to his very uneasy position ; for elephant-riding, though not so bad as camel-riding, has a tendency tow^ards shaking the body all to pieces, and aches and pains in the joints are frequent after the first trials. Not that the animal is to bhime, for he generally goes at about the
118 ''SARONCr' AND "KRiS:'
rate of two miles an hour, and will at the word of
command snap off an interposing tree the thickness of a man's leg as easily as if it were a twig.
Elejihants here are not the monstrous boasts found in some parts of the world, those of ten feet high being exceptionally large. Their principal disease seems to be a kind of leprosy, which shows itself in the ears.
They are the chief beasts of burden of the country, and will walk away comfortably with half a ton of tin ; but where the load Is of a bulky nature, fi*om four to six hundred weight is considered sufficient. They are naturally the property of the Sultan and his chiefs, and elephants arc looked upon as part of the Sultan's regalia, fifty being reckoned in his regal list.
The well-known white, or as it should be called flesh-coloured, elephant is very rare, but is not, like its darker brethren, held in much veneration by the Malays. All elephants aie petted and caressed and considered of great value ; but their treatment is veiy difterent to that received in the neighbouring countr}* of Siam, where those belonging to the king are objects of the greatest dignity, each having its own following of royal attendants. In fact the white elephant, which Dr. Finlayson looks u2X)n as being an albino of its family, is believed by the Siamese, who speak of it a& an animal " so noble, so docile, and so strong," to be animated by the illustrious soul that foimcrly occupied the body of some prince — an idea due to the fact that
THE RHINOCEROS. 110
these people l)eiiig Buddliists, Lclicve in tlio doctrine of the triinsmigrjxtion of souls.
It is related that one Siamese prince despatched three elephants as presents to the grandsons of the then king of France, a nation with whom the Siamese have long held intercourse. As the animals were going he whispered to them : "Go, depart cheerfully ; you will be slaves, indeed ; hut you will be so to three of the greatest princes of the world, whose service is as moderate as it is glorious." After this address the elephants were hoisted into the ship, and because they bowed themselves to go under the deck, the Siamese cried out with admiration of their sagacity.
A curious trait of the elephant is worthy of notice. When not observed, the great animal will go to a cocoa-nut tree, and, to obtain the nuts and young blossoms, place his head against the trunk, and then commencing a swaying movement, throw the whole weight of the body against the tree over and over again, till it comes down with a crash, leaving the coveted treasures at his feet.
The rhinoceros is occasionally seen, and two varieties are believed to exist. They are very shy, and at the approach of man rush off through the jungle ; being very different to their relatives in Africa, one kind of which charges directly he perceives man or horse, even a hut or a fire being an object upon which he will vent his fury. The natives tell of a beast that they call the kooda-ayer, or water-horse, by
120 "SAUONQ" AND " KBW
some supposod to Ijc a liippopotamus ; but it is evi- dently cither a rliinoccros or one of the hirger taj)irs, whicli arc found in tlie marsliy jihiccs, calmly browsing on the herbage by means of their prehensile upper lip, waiting, like the rhinoceros, for the time in the future when the gun of the sportsman shall disturb their rest.
There is plenty of game f<jr the hunter who does penetrate the jungles, splendid deer of very large size being common. Some of these approach the elk in magnitude, and among them are the sambre, the spotted-di'cr, hog-deer, and the chevrotin or palandok. Wild-lioars are not at all uncommon — not the pro- genitors of the pigs of the Settlements, for their pre- sence is due to the Chinese — the Malay, from his religion, rejecting pork. The boars are both large and fierce, one poor fellow — a convict employed on the road — dying of the injuries he received from one of these beasts up in Province Wellesley. His dog was baying at something in the jungle, and, on enter- ing the forest, he found that the animal was holding a wild-boar in check. The latter set upon him at once, ripping him terribly, the beast being afterwards shot by the European overseer of the works. These boars' tusks are very large and white ; and taking advantage of their peculiar curve, a Chinese goldsmith in Penang joins the root and point with a chain, letters the ivory, and forms of them very handsome decanter labels. That these boars have other enemies
riri': .\fALAY iif.m;. 121
bcsklcs man has been sliown in the attack of the boa- con.stri(ttor.
Tliero is only one rcpro.scintutivc of the Ix'ar, in tiic person of that pecnliar little black animal familiar to most visitors to the Zoological Gardens. It is a smooth-coatecl little fellow, black, with a patch of white on the throat, and, from its cleverness in raising itself upon its hind legs, and curious actions, has a great resemblance to a short thick-set monke}^ They are pretty common in Perak, but quite harmless, save to the young cocoa-nut plantations, amidst which they create great havoc.
Otters are common, though not, of course, the English variety ; the polecat family is pretty well represented ; squirrels may l^e seen amongst the trees, as well as those curious little animals the bats. Of these there are several varieties, the fruit-bats being the most worthy of note. These, which are commonly known as flying-foxes, visit the peninsula during the fruit season in enormous flocks, coming from the direction of Sumatra, and settle and destroy the fruit to an enormous extent. They are of the size of a large rat, and their wings have a spread of from two to three feet, while in the larj^er variety, which is equally destructive, the stretch of the wings from tip to tip has been known to be over five feet. Specimens as large as this are at the present time in the museums. Java and Sumatra are the prin- cipal homes of these creatures, but they find their
122 ''SARONG" AND ''KRlSr
way to Pcnik, as if led l)y some strange instinct to a place where fruit abounds. Tliey come with a slow steady flight, in a straight line, and devour indis- criminately ever)' kind of fruit that comes in their way. They are however easily shot, and their de- struction is a boon to the jilaco.
For Perak is a land where it is necessary to com- bine the use of the gun with research and travel, since at any time the journey may be interrupted by some fierce beast of the feline kind, as there is the tiijer-cat
_ o
and the black leopard — a magnificent beast, whose coat is jetty in one light, Init displays the peculiar spots in another. Taken altogether, it is in its wild state one of the most beautiful creatures of the jungle.
An amusing incident occurred at the time of the Duke of Edinburgh's visit to the peninsula, with, a black leopard, which had been captured and was kept in a cage, roaming slowly up and down, or crouching, with that far-off" look, whieh seems to see the native wilds through the impertinent gazers who disturb the privacy of the noble beast. A medical officer present had been talking of the power of the human eye over the untamed animal, and went up to the cage to prove it by fixing the dilating eye of the savage beast with his o^^Ti.
The leopard bore the stare for some little time with gathering anger, and then, without the slightest warning, made one fierce bound at the gentleman
THE TWER. 123
witli tlio magnetic eyes. There was a growl, a dasli, an ejaculation, and tlio officer staggered back, with his cap torn off, and his cheek laid open by the animal's claws, the peak of the cap having saved the beast- quelling eyes.
But the animal par excellence of Perak and other parts of the peninsula is undoubtedly the Malay tiger, fine specimens of which are in the gardens of the Zoological Society, as are also others of the black leopard, which wexc sent direct from the Malay peninsula, and presented to the society by Sii- Harry St. George Ord, late governor of the Straits Settle- ments. The Malay tiger is rather smaller than that of Bengal, and displays more white in its under parts ; in fact, it thoroughly answers, save in size, to that graphically-described beast the moollah of Cap- tain Lawson's New Guinea — a book of travels of which the critics have expressed strong doubts, as its wonders do somewhat trench on the narratives of our older navigators of the world.
The Malay tiger is a fierce and terrible beast, and exaggerated stories are told of its appetite in the island of Singapore, where those that frequent the jungle are said to have eaten a man per diem all the year round. There has been terrible loss of life in the island, but this is very far beyond the mark. There are no doubt many in Perak, and their lairs are fre- quently seen ; but from the country being so thinly populated, few people are killed. It is, however, one of
12 1 *' SARONG" AXD *' KRiS."
the misfortunes of a place, that tlic tiger takes to haunt- \i\rr new settlements, lying in wait for or stalking the unfortunate coolies stooi)ing and picking the gamhier leaves, upon wlioiu it springs, after waiting hours for its opportunity. In nhiKjst every case the first blow, which is almost always on the back of the neck, seems to be fiital, the power of the paw being enormous. There is good work here in Perak, un- doubtedly, for the sportsman's rifle ; but to seek the tiger in the dense forests would be almost suicidal, the beast that is being tracked in the dusky twilight. of the jungle being probably watching his would-be destroyer unseen. One plan frequently adopted is to place some animal for a bait, and then to sit in a tree and wait all night for the tiger's coming — a plan that rarely succeeds, and conse- quently the governmental fifty-doUai-s reward is not very often earned. Fortunately, the increase of this beast is kept down by the love of the m^le tiger for his own oflspring as food. He devours them when- ever he htxs an opportunity, for he is wide in his choice of dainties, and will put up with buffalo when he cannot obtain man, crushing in the thick skull of this animal with one blow if he can take it unawares, and avoid impalement upon its formidable horns.
The Malays make pitfalls for the tiger, funnel- shaped holes of fifteen feet deep, right in its track, knowing full well that it will return by the way it has gone. If this were merely covered with sticks
TIGER. TJlArriNC. 1 1:,
;uul leaves, tlio tiger would be suspicious, tiy it, jtud go another way ; tliiTeforc the Malay cuts down a tree, so that it falls across that side of the hole by which his enemy will approach, and then hides the opening with leaves and bouirhs. Th(.' fiiU of a tree in the forest is so common a thing that the tiger's suspicion is not excited. A tree has fallen across its path — voild tout. It plants its fore-paws on the trunk, draws up its hind- legs, and leaps lightly down — crash through the frail covering into the pitfall, where it is approached with sublime respect, the Malays hardly daring to go near enough to give the coup de grdce to the dreaded beast.
Another way, as the cookery-books say over a fresh recipe to dress the joint previously dealt with : The Malays, on finding the track of a tiger, very inge- niously hang a heavy balk of timber across the jjath from the projecting bough of a tree. The string which suspends the beam is attached to a cleverly- made trigger, and the trigger again to a noose, which is arranged right in the animal's track. The result is as may be anticipated : if the tiger's mind be occupied with how to provide for the next repast, an unguarded foot is placed in the noose, the string is drawn tight, the trigger is touched, the beam falls, and the tiger lies paralysed, with a broken back, awaiting his destroyers' spears.
The Malays are equally clever in capturing the monkey, by means of a noose through which the active little thing puts its hand, and draws the string
120 "SARONG" AND " KIlIS."
tight. In fact, the noose is a favourite plan with the iiihal)itants of the peninsula and the isles adjacent. J\rr. AVallacc mentions how cleverly the natives of AVaigiou, near New Guinea, noose the birds of para- disc ; and allusion has already been made to the way in which the argus pheasant is taken, and " springes," not " to catch woodcocks " l)ut snipe, are made.
Of those curious little creatures monkeys there are many kinds ; but, as far as the writer can tell, no apes, such as the mias or orang-utan of ]iomeo, and the wa-wa of Java, a tailless animal something like the affile gibbon. The most rare is one of a milk- white colour. Only two specimens have come under the writer's notice during a long residence in these parts ; and it may after all be, as Dr. Finlayson says of the white elephant of Siam, only an albino. It is a small monkey, only about eighteen inches high, and veiy peculiar.
One large short-tailed monkey is a great favourite with the people of Perak. To its master it is very tame and greatly attached, acting as his protector in a journey through the woods, from campong to cam- pong, and being ready to attack any aggressor, even as a dog would in England. It is a large strongly- built animal, standing as high as an ordinary- dining- table, and possesses large canine teeth, with which it will seize its enemy by the back of the neck, and hold on so tightly that it is hard to shake it oflf.
The Malay being too sedate, dignified, and often
MONKEYS. 127
too idle to climb a tree himself, trains this monkoy to pick cocoa-nuts for him. The writer has fre- quently seen one with a string attached to it run up a tree with the greatest activity and seize a nut. A pull of the string shows the monkey that this is the wrong fruit ; and l)y constant guidance with the string, the little parody of humanity readily dis- tinguishes the particular object it is to obtain, and at once seizing it with its hands, begins to screw it round and round, till the footstalk gives way, and the heavy nut with its thick husk of fibre falls with a thud to the ground.
This anecdote savours so of " the travellers' tale," that it may be well to repeat in all sincerity that it is a fact, and that the practice is common.
Several of the smaller kinds are easily tamed when captured by the Malays, though it must be said that some of the larger species are very vicious, one that was given to an English sailor proving too wild to keep. It is amusing to see them in the jungle, apparently watching the intruders, and peering round from the far side of branches. Troops of them may be seen on the sands at the mouths of the rivers when going up, their object being to search for the shell-fish which abound, and which seem to be a favourite delicacy to the simian palate.
The loris, one of their near relatives, is pretty common : but to be brief, the fauna of Perak is an extensive one, and embraces many animals that have
128 ''SARONG" AND '' KRiS."
been passed iinnoticofl, among otliers the musang and tbf porcupine, which can be often Amnd in a suitable habitat.
Of the more domestic animals, that most useful of creatures the horse is not found in Perak, neither has it been naturalised anywhere else in the peninsula, though found in Burmah, Pegu, and Siam, as well as in Sumatra, Java, Borneo, and several other of the islands of the Archipelago. One variety imported is really a spirited pony, but probably from there being no extensive plains suitable for their increase, even this diminutive form of the horse has found no dwelling-place in the interior.
The goat is domesticated by the ^lalays, as it is everywhere by people of their faith, Mahomet having attached a special blessing to the possession of this animal. The attempts made at Malacca and Singapore to introduce sheep resiUted in failure. They could onlv be kept by placing them at niglit ui)on a plank flooring raised above the earth, and by feeding them with in^.ported hay. Neither the jiasture at Malacca nor in the island seemed to suit them. But there is the possibility that the pasture of Perak might prove better, and attempts should be made to acclimatise the Indian breed ; or perhajis that of the Chinese might prove more hardy, for as the country' becomes more opened out and cultivated, there is no reason why sheep should not thrive as well as the goat. The advantage to settlers would be no trifle, as will be seen
WILD.OATS. 120
wlien it is stated that good mutton, at Singapore, costs about lialf-a-crown a pound.
l\al)bits liavo been essayed, but they soon fell a prey to the musangs or wild-cats, and this will pro- bably be for some time their fate, these fierce little animals catching them quite close up to the houses; and even in the suburbs of Singapore rabbits and pigeons have to be carefully secured, or their inde- fatigable enemy will find them out and destroy them without mercy.
CHAPTER XIII.
Tlic people of Perak — Bngis — Korincbi — Rawa and 3Iandclinf; — Cannibalism— The Malay — "Wild tribes— Jacoon or Sakai — Samangs — Diseases.
The inhabitants of Perak are of several races. The bulk of the population, which is excessively small and scattered for so fine a country — one which cannot show even a village of any great size — consists of the Malays ; the Batta Barak, Rawa, Mandeling, and Korinchi — people of Sumatra ; the Bugis ; and lastly, the wild tribes of the interior. There are of course the few European settlers, and a certain number of Chinese, whose skilled labour in mining, agi'iculture, and artifice is a valuable acquisition to the country.
Tlic Bugis are evidently a distinct race from the Malays, and come originally from the southern part of the island of Celebes. They compare most favourably witli tlie ^lalays proper, being intelligent, courageous, and I'uteriirising ; and tliough very similar to them in appearance, they speak a different language. The ]\Ialays fear and respect them above all the other races of the Archipelago ; and among them are to be found
Till': BUGIS. 131
tlie |»iiii(i|i;il native traders ami m(;rcliant.s ; Imt their inthk'iicc Jias greatly dwiiulled since the time wlieii they luid tlie principal amount of the trade in their liauds.
The Bugis at one time made a strong movement westward, and overran Quedah and sevc.-ral other portions of the i)eninsula ; but at tlie i)resent date there are but few of them actually established in the country, their habits being wandering and unsettled, as they seem to have been of old. When the con- version of the different races to Islamism took place, these people were the last to go over to Mahomet, and probably are held now amongst the most strict of his followers. The character given to the Bugis is not always of the best, for he has been termed a lieggar^ treacherous, given to stealing, braver than a Malay, but not possessing the other's good points, being one who will lay his plans to obtain revenge on the offending party.
The Bugis race has kept itself very distinct from the people amongst whom it dwells, but occasionally inter-marriages take place. One of the most important of late has been that of the well-known Buo-is chief of Perak, Nakoda Trong, who led to the hymeneal altar one of the Perak ladies of distinction, Inche Maida, or Princess Maida. Their portraits are given in the accompanying engraving, with the female attendants. This princess has her home at the station high up the Perak river at Qualla Kungsa ; and she won the good-
K 2
132 '*SARONO" AXD " KRlS."
will of many of tho Europoans ongngod in quolling the disturbances, by her HJn^rular hospitality, and also by the ready aid she has always given t<j the British officers since the country has been under our protection. Inche Maida's lord and protector was however found somewhat wanting at the time of the disturbances, his Bugis nature and unsettled habits coming ui)permost, witli the result that he found an imperative call for absenting himself on business, leaving his lady to the wars, while he sought for more peaceful regions and the protection of his noble self away from Perak.
Among the settlers named, the Korinchi are immim-ants from tlu- interior of the island of Sumatra.
o
They arc Malays in manners and language ; but giving themselves the credit of being a purer race of Mahome- dans, they hold aloof from the ordinaiy Malay, and dress always in white garments. Greatly resembling the Perak Malays, they are more industrious, with the natural result that they live . in better . style, and surround themselves with more comforts than those amongst whom they dwell. They write the Malay language in a peculiar character of their own, one which .Mr. Crawfurd is of opinion was the original character of the ^lalay people, and generally used before the adoption of the Arabic, which Is now in common use.
These Korinchi people are peaceable, and were found to be quite willing to assist the British in making roads and felling jungle; but, with the
CANNIBALISM. 133
customary dignity of \\n\ Malay rac«.', objected to being eiujiloyed as coolies in cariying weights, or, as they expressed it, bc.'ing treated as beasts of burden, their idea of the creature man being rather higher than amongst the l)usy nations of the West.
The Rawa and Mandeling people are also immi- grants from Sumatra, not far from the particular dis- trict of the Batta Barak tribe, who inhabit a portion of the eastern coast of the island in the same latitude as the state of Salangore, across to wdiich state of the peninsula many of them have also migrated. In their own country they are principally fishermen-; but the progressive instinct which has sent them to seek pastures new renders them more amenable to the advance of civilisation, and ready to clear the jungle, cut down trees, plant, and generally prepare the land for a better state of things. The .Alandeliug people are said to be a branch of the Batta of the interior of Sumatra, a tribe who have enjoyed the unenviable reputation of being eaters of human flesh, and the most fierce and warlike people of the land.
This cannibalistic charge was repeated many years later by Mr. Anderson, viz. in 1823, and though denied by many, was subsequently distinctly proved. Whether the custom still exists the ■uT.-iter is unable to say, but it is still mentioned ; and if at an end, the discontinuance of the practice is of very recent date. Sir Stamford Raffles's remarks, in which he quotes
i:U **SARON(r' AND " A'7iJ/5."
Dr. Leydcm'-s opinion, me. worth rcpeatiiif^. He says, in 1823 :
Tlu' l'.utla lanf,nia^'(', \vliiili I rc;;;iiil Jis llu- most ancient lan<(naj;o of .Suniatm, is used ]>y the JJatUi tribes, -wIju eliieHy occujty tliu centre of that island. Tlie Kingularity of their manner, and par- ticularly the hiirrid ciLstom of anthroi>ojihaj,'y, pnictLsed by a nation in other resjKJcts more civilised than the Malays liy whom they ar« surrounded, has attracted the attention of Europeans from the time of the earliest voyagei-s to our own times, but no very Kiitiwfac- tory account liaa ever l>cen given of them a-s a nation. Tho best de.scrii>tiou of them is certjiiiily f,aven by Marsden, in his History of Suujatra ; but even that is very imperfect and huihjf- ficial, and at variance in some respects with the information I received from individuals of the natioiL !Marsden confines their cannilmlism to two ca.ses — that of j)er8on« condemned for crimes, and that of jirisonci-s of war; but they themselves declare that they freijuently eat their own relations, when age<l and infirm ; and that not so much to gratify their api)etite, as to jxTform a ndi- gious ceremony. Thus, when a man becomes infirm and weary of the world, ho is said to invite his own children to eat him, in tho season when salt and limes are cheapest. He then ascends a tn-e, round which his friends and offspring assemble, and, as they shake the tree, join in a funeral dii-ge, the import of which is : " ITio season is come, the fniit is ri|X', and it nnist desccniL" The victim descemls, and those that are nearest and dearest to him deprive him of life, and devour his remains in a solemn Imnipiet. This account is certainly more likely to excite incredulity than tho account of ^lai-sden ; but it is the account of some of the llattiw them.selves, as well as that of the Malays in their vicinity.
The Malays of Persik, like those of Malacca, are doubtless descendants of that parent stock which in bygone times niigi-ated from the district of Menang Kabau, in the island of Sumatra ; and l)y all good Malays this is looked upon as the original seat of their race. The whole of the traditions of the people tend to
THE MALAY. \Zl
show that this wiis their origin ; iiiid even at the present day a strangor coming among them from Menang Kal)au Inings with him, so to sj)eak, a pass which ensures him the respect and veneration of all Malays.
Physically, tliey have broad flat features, the nose wide, and dilated at the nostrils ; cheek-bones high,, and eyes placed as in the European, and in no case even slightly oblique, as some writers have said in trying to classify them with the Mongolian or Tartar races. In fact, it has been asserted that if a Malay were dressed in Chinese costume, he could not be distin- guished from a Chinaman. This is a gTave error, for the Malay of the peninsula is never found with the oblique eyes peculiar to the Mongolian race. The Malay's forehead is slightly prominent ; the hair of the head lank, coarse, and universally black ; but very slight trace of beard ; the mouth large, with the upper lip slightly lifted; complexion of a dark yellowish brown. Their arms are long, chests broad, and their lower limbs strong and muscular ; they are, as a rule, below the middle height, but, on the whole, sturdy formidable-looking fellows.
Amouo;st some of the chiefs there is an evident trace of Arab descent ; and this was particularly noticeable in the Laksamana of Perak, who was per- haps the most clever and intriguing of the native chiefs of Perak during and preceding the late emeiite, not even excepting the Muntri, who in his intriguing ways frequently descended to the low
13G '* SARONG" AND ''KltJS."
cunning of tlie Kling, or native of Southern India, whose blood to some extent was said to course in liis veins.
The 3I:ilay wcjuien compare veiy unfavourably with their lords in a European's eyes, for they seem, witli very nxrc. exceptions, coarse, plain, and wanting in \]ui charms nature generally bestows on the softer sex. When quite young, however, they occasionally possess good looks, as may l)e seen by the illustration showing Inchc Maida's attendants, which gives a fair idea of the Ijetter-class young girbs among the Malays.
]\Iarriages are mad(^ at a very early age, in conse- quence of tlic rapid approach of maturity, though extreme longevity is not uncommon ; and when, as is customary amongst the poor, polygamy is not prac- tised, the average number of a man's children is from three to four, large families being rarely, if ever, known. Polygamy, however, which is authorised by the Mahomedan faith, is largely practised by the more wealthy of its followers ; and it has brought about its customary train of evils in Penik, in the shape of slavery in some of its worst forms, and a gradual depopulation of a country already far too thinly inhabited.
The wild tribes of the interior of Perak form a very interesting subject for consideration. They may be roughly divided into two classes : the Aborigines and the Oriental Negroes; or the "Orang Benua" and Samaugs of the ^Malays. The words Orang Benua
WILD TRIUES. 137
litcmlly incaii '"iiirii of tlie country;" jind these people Ikiv(^ been variously styled Jacoons, Bcisisi, or Sakai, witli other terms from the localities or rivers upon which they are found. Sakai is the name generally given to them by tlie Pcrak Malay, though sometimes they may l)e called Orang Laut — sea-gipsies, or men of the sea ; and Orang Bukit — men of the hill, or hill- tribes.
There can be no doubt that these people are the aboriginal Malays, such as the present ruling race were before their partial civilisation and conversion to Islam. For though they have a peculiar dialect and idiom of their own, their language is essentially of Malay origin. In appearance they greatly resemble the Malays ; but are much shorter in stature ; and, like most rude nations, very little addicted to injuring their figures by the adoption of tight and inconvenient clothing. They trade a little with the superior race ; and by means of barter obtain sometimes the sarong, or national kilt of these people? and the sapu taugang, or kerchief, for the head, which they wear in the same way, excepting that the women leave the bosom uncovered — save when, imitating the more civilised of their sex, they throw a small cloth over their shoulders.
The kris, or native dagger, and parang, or knife, they obtain from the villages ; but for their weapon of offence they use the " sumpitan," or blow-pipe, whose tiny darts they send through the tube to a long
138 *'SAnONa*' AM) ''KRlsr
distance, witli great prerrision and with considerable force. 1)}' moans of tlicso tiny arrow.s they kill hird.s and other animals, whicli, with wild fruit and root^, form the staple of their food supply.
In Sumatni, <ni the contraiy, according to Mr. Marsden, these peojJe do not hold any intimate com- munication with their more civilised neighboui-s, who when anxious to obtain honey, wax, or other products of the forest from them, place clothes and tobacco in some part of the jungle they are known to visit, and after a certain time, on going they find theii* ofiering removed,' and the products of the forest of greater value laid in the place.
The sumpitan is formed out of a piece of bamboo ; and the arrows are in some cases poisoned at the tips, the other end being furnished with a tuft of cotton or similar growth, which tightly fits the hollow of the cane, so that a strong puff from tlie lungs has more effect upon the dart. When at rest these: people will stand on one leg, resting with the foot of the other leg against their knee, and the hand gi-asping the blow- pipe for a support, just as the Australian blacks rest upon theii- spear. Some of these sumpitans are veiy neatly made and ornamented, while the arrows used are both plain and barbed.
The engi-aving, taken from a photogi-aph of a group of these people, gives a good idea of their peculiar characteristics. In this some two or three are seen with the " limbing," or spear. This Is not common
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THE SAKAIS. 139
with them, but wlicn possessed litis been obtained from the Malays. 'Vlw pliotograpli was one taken by the late Resident, 3Ir. J. W. W. Birch, who to his many other qualifications added those of being an excellent naturalist and a clever photographer.
Efforts are being made to civiHsc these people, dating from some years ago, when a French mis- sionary of the name of Borrie went into the jungle of Malacca, and seeking out the Jacoons, as they are there called, found them migrating from spot to spot, as food was plentiful or scarce. Selecting a suitable place lie made signs to them, and in their presence planted seeds and tapioca slips, encouraging them to "watch what he was doing. Some little time after, on their return to the same spot, he pointed out to them the rooting and growing of the seeds and slips ; and in this way, by the exercise of great patience, combined with kindness, he induced them to begin tillino^ the orround for themselves.
The writer visited the home of this pioneer of civilisation ; and it was impossible to avoid lending admiration to the devotion of M. Borrie to his work. From his labour of love he had apparently lost all thouoht of the outer world. The French mission has also ali'eady extended its work to Perak, where it has erected a little church on the very confines of the jungle, and is eagerly pursuing its self-inflicted task amongst the half-ci^dlised Malays of the state.
It was whilst visitino- the lonelv home of the
otter q Mtiirai
on I tk
civilisi adiniri From
'I'nr: sakais.
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with them, but Avlicn possessed has been obtained from the Malays. 'I'hc photograpli was one taken by the late Residi'iit, i\Ir. J. W. W, Bireh, who to his many other qiialifieatious added those of being an excellent naturalist and a clever photographer.
Efforts are being made to ci^'ilise these people, dating from some years ago, when a French mis- sionary of the name of Borrie went into the jungle of Malacca, and seeking out the Jacoons, as they are there called, found them migrating from spot to spot, as food Avas plentiful or scarce. Selecting a suitable place he made signs to them, and in their presence planted seeds and tapioca slips, encouraging them to "watch what he was doing. Some little time after, on their return to the same s|)ot, he pointed out to them the rooting and growing of the seeds and slips ; and in this way, by the exercise of great patience, combined with kindness, he induced them to begin tillinor the oround for themselves.
The writer visited the home of this pioneer of civilisation ; and it was impossible to avoid lending admiration to the devotion of M. Borrie to his work. From his labour of love he had apparently lost all thought of the outer world. The French mission has
o
also ah-eady extended its Avork to Perak, where it has erected a little church on the very confines of the jungle, and is eagerly pursuing its self-inflicted task amongst the half-civilised Malays of the state.
It was whilst visiting the lonely home of the
d\
p
Frcncli missionaries, that the writx-T was a witness to the wonilciful skill of the Jacoons with the 8umj»itan, their aim being almost unerring, and tlie wenj)on deadly in its efl'ects.
Tlie class of wild peoi>le known by the Malays as Samangs, have been called by Europeans Oriental or Asiatic Negroes — Negro ^lalayan people ; and, when com}>ared with those who inhabit the Philii)piuc Islands, Negi-itoos, Aetas, or Little Negroes. Some recent geographei's taking the Malayan word Pajma, literally "curly," have given this name to New Guinea, and dubbed the inhabitants of this great island with those of Fiji and others in the Pacific, Papuans, with whom they (;lass the Samangs of Perak and other portions of the Malay i)oninsula.
The writer's knowledge of the so-called Pajtuans is not of that thoroughly personal description to enable him to speak with decision on the subject, and he can only judge from the accounts given. Ity others; but the Samangs, who range from the Nicobar gi'ou}), through the ]\lala}' peninsula — though, singularly cnougji, not found in the island of Sumatra — cannot be classed with the race of small squat negroes of the Andamans and Philippints, as described by Crawfurd and other WTiters.
For these Samanijs differ widely from the little aborigines — the Sakai, or Jacoons, of Perak — being of about the same size as the ^lalay ; are in comitlexion of a dark brown, more than black, with flat nose, thick
TJIt: SAilANOS.
Ul
lips, large mouth, and liair not lank and l)lack like the Malay, nor woolly like tlie Ethiopian negro, but long and in tufts.
Baron Maclay, the Kussian traveller, with whom the writer is personally acrpiainted, has been recently making a careful study of the habits and features of these people, and will doubtless soon issue an opinion w^orthy of all respect ; Ijut according to the informa- tion now possessed, it seems coiTect to place the Samang with the class called by Dr. Pickering Malayised negroes, and the same which will he subse- quently referred to in the chapter on the ancient history of the people, as being found on the island of Madagascar.
It seems only reasonable to suppose that in the constant intercourse which took place in early times between the Arabs and mai'itime Malays, and between these latter and the people on the island of Madagascar, people of this class were conveyed by the Malays to their own country; and that, not being a maritime people, and strangers to the land, they retreated towards the interior, even as the new Malay colonists from Sumatra drove back also T;\-ith them the aboriginal inhabitants, the Orang Benua, or Sakai, who were originally dwellers on the coast.
To return to the Malays of Perak : it may not be uninteresting to say a few words respecting their diseases. Like most people who live a simple natural life, they are comparatively free from the ailments of
14<J ''SARONO" AXD " A7/7.SV'
Frcucli luissioiiarics, that the writer wa« a witness to the woiuleiful skill of the Jacoons with the Humpitun, their ;iim being almost unerring, and the weapon tlejully in its effects.
Tlie class of wild people known hy the Malays as iSaniangs, have been called by Europeans Oriental or Asiatic Negroes — Negro Malayan peojile ; and, when compared %nth those who iidiabit the rhilii)piuc Islands, Negritoes, Aetas, or Little Negroes. Some recent geographers taking the Malayan word Papua, literally "curly," have given this name to New Guinea, and dubljcd the inhabitants of this great island with those of Fiji and others in the Pacific, Papuans, with whom they class the Samangs of Perak and other portions of the Malay pwiiusula.
The writer's knowledge of the so-called Pai)uaus is not of that thoroughly i)ersonal description to enable him to speak with decision on the subject, and he can only judge from the accounts given .])y others ; but the Samangs, who range from the Nicobar gi'oup, through the ^lalay peninsula — though, singularly enough, not found in the island of Sumatm — cannot be classed with the race of small squat negroes of the Andamans and Philippines, as described by Crawfurd and other writers.
For these Samaufjs diflfer widelv from the little aborigines — the Sakai, or Jacoons, of Perak — being of about the same size as the !Malay ; Jire in complexion of a dark brown, more than black, with flat nose, thick
THE SAMANQS. 141
lipa, large mouth, iind huir not lauk and l)lack like the Malay, nor woolly like the Ethiopian negro, hut long and in tufts.
Baron Maclay, the Russian traveller, with whom the writer is personally nc/piainted, has been refently making a careful study of the habits and features of these people, and will doubtless soon issue an opinion worthy of all respect ; but according to the informa- tion now possessed, it seems correct to place the Samang with tlie class called by Dr. Pickering Malayised negroes, and the same which will be subse- quently referred to in the chapter on the ancient history of the people, as being found on the island of Madagascar.
It seems only reasonable to suppose that in the constant intercourse which took place in early times between the Arabs and maritime Malays, and between these latter and the people on the island of Madagascar, people of this class were conveyed by the Malays to their own country; and that, not being a maritime people, and strangers to the land, they retreated towards the interior, even as the new Malay colonists from Sumatra di'ove back also with them the aboriginal inhabitants, the Orang Benua, or Sakai, who were originally dwellers on the coast.
To return to the Malays of Perak : it may not be uninteresting to say a few words respecting their diseases. Like most people who live a simple natural life, they are comparatively free from the ailments of
112 "SABONQ" AND "KltlS."
civilisation ; but disease is l»y no means rare. That scourge of Ejustcrn lands, leprosy, is not oft<;n seen ; l)ut occasionally a Malay may be encountered whose hands and feet are covered with white spots, though these are said not to be contagious. That tcmble swelling of the leg known as cleiihantiiusis, Is some- times to be seen ; and in cases of this kind the ]\Ialays seem to look upon the afflicted person with a kind of awe. In fact, in the interior, the i)eoi)le looked upon an individual thus afflicted as invulner- able, and blindly followed his advice in matters appertaining to Mar.
The ordinary blood diseases and fevers are known ; and among them the small-pox, from which they suffer a good deal, but look upon the Eurojtcan custom of vaccination as opposed to a sincere religious faith — being in fact an endeavour to frustrate the ends of Pro- vidence in sending disease. By judicious explanations though, and management on the part of- the medical officei-s of the Government, the prejudice has to a great extent been overcome.
Dysentery, one of the complaints that aflect Euro- l^>eans, is not general ; but the inhabitants suffer a great deal from entozoa, for which nature seems to have prepared a specific in the male pomegranate tree. Rheumatism, too, is common, and called by them ** wind in the joints ; " their remedy for it being beating and kneading till the pain has gone. Many of these simple remedies are very efficacious ; and the knowledge; pos-
VliiEAlSJJS. 143
sesHcd by the natives of plants aiul roots is not uii- wortliy <»t" respect. Pressed leaves are applied to their cutaneous eruptions ; and though dirty in theii* homes, the Malays have a good idea of the sanitary value of cleanliness, tlie bath being daily used ; while en- closures of mats and bamboo are contrived at the ends of their boats for bathing-places as shown in one of the engravings, the sign that such a place is temporarily occupied being given by hanging the sarong, or skirt, over the outside.
Far as these people are removed from civilisation, they are fully awake to the effects of bhang, an intoxi- cating licjuor prepared from hemp ; to destroy which they chew betel-nut, which is said to counteract the cftects of an overdose, even as amongst Europeans chlorodyne is said to remove the intoxication pro- duced by an over-indulgence in stimulants. The Malays being an intensely nervous race this may be so ; in fact, so highly strung are they, that in some instances they have a singularly wild way of mimicking any movement made to them, and if it is continued it seems to have the effect of working them up into a complete state of frenzy. To these peculiarities further allusion will be made when treatino- of the strans^e madness kno'^m as amok, or, as it has been commonly called, "running a muck."
CHAPTER XIV
Dress — Tlio sarong— Dress of the Bugis — Dress of the Malay — European costumes— Omaiueuts— Coquettish toilets.
PjtOBABLY ill no country is the custom of keeping to the national costume more thoroughly adhered to than amongst the Malays. Civilisation has naturally introduced many articles of clothing ; but no matter how many of these are adopted, the Malay, from the greatest sultan of the peninsula do^^^l to the poorest inhabitant of a squalid campong on the banks of a stream, always wears the sarong, which literally means a case or envelope.
This is an oblong cloth, from two to four feet in width, and some two yards long. The ends are sewn together, and there, in its simplest foim, is a skirt or kilt, which .is worn by men and women alike — on the men reaching to just below the knecn, on the women to the ankles. The men tighten it round the waist by two or three ingenious twists, thus forming with it a skirt and belt at one and the same time, in which they carry the kiis, or native dagger, tighten- ing or loosening the band at pleasure. The women
THE 8AB0NQ. 146
wciir one tluil is widci-, ;iiid secure it close up under the armpits so that it covers the breasts, throwiiifr another over their heads as a veil and to cover the shoulders ; and when abroad and they meet men, they extend this upper sarong by holding their hands at a distance on eitlier side of the head, so as to form with the garment a long narrow slit, covering the face and forehead in such a way that the eyes alone are visible to the stranger's gaze.
This ingenious and very simple form of yashmak, as it would l)e called amongst the followers of the Prophet in Turkey, is of course used in accordance with Mussulman traditions.
The sarong greatly resembles the tartan of our own Highlanders, inasmuch as it is invariably a check, and generally of gay colours, very tastefully woven by native hands. They arc manufactured at many places in the peninsula, and in Java, Sumatra, and Borneo. Those from Tringanu and Johorc are held in great esteem, while the cotton sarongs from the Celebes fetch high prices. The best are of silk from China, dyed before it is brought over, though the Malays are very ingenious in the use of dyes ; but there is an intermediate quality, of silk and cotton combined ; while the sarong of the lower classes is of simple cotton. It is singular that a check should be adopted by these people for their national robe, one which really answers to the Scotch plaid scarf, and is often
14G ''SARONG" AND ''KRlSr
worn in prcciHcly the 8ame way, as in many rcsjiccts they roscniblo our Hiirlilandcrs in their clannish or tril)al lial>its, and tiioroughly chieftain-likc ways of dealing with their fellows.
The extremely simple garb of the Sakai or aborigines, and the Samangs or negro Malays has been already alluded to, as likewise ha.s that of the Sumatra tribes, who adhere to white. The particular dress of the Ikigis may be gathered from that of Nakoda Trong, in the engraving. The trousers are of calico, frequently ornamented with open work at the base, and over this is worn the sarong, kilt fashion. This, with the Bugis, is invarial)ly of cotton, and aftei- protecting the loins by day, is opened out and becomes a sheet at night. The jacket, worn loose to the figure, is called a haju ; it is made with long sleeves, and generally of white but sometimes of coloured cotton : in the latter case the pattern is the check to which the Malay is so partial The headdress .is a handker- chief nattily tied on, and this kerchief is common to the Bugis and Malay of Perak ; but with the former it is mostly of a larger size.
The Malay chieftain, while adhering to the sarong — which is a garment most suitable to the climate, very convenient, and giving great freedom to the limbs — is very fond of adopting European costumes. Sultan Abdullah ordered a maguiiicent uniform from England, something between that of a field-mai-shal and a hussar colonels, of which, with its little engineer
MALAY COSTUME. 14,7
busb} , Ih' \v;is very proud ; lliou^li, ;i,s will be seen from the group of wliidi Jh; forms tlie ceDtrc, it is doubtful whether he looked so well as the chiefs of his court, who stood on eitlier side, when they were photographed by the writer.
The general JMalay costume is very similar to that described as worn by the J>ugis. It consists of an inner vest, having a collar to button tight round the neck, and the baju or jacket, often of light-coloured dimity, for undress ; trousers worn loose and long, or what are now often preferred, a loose pair of short drawers, made of cotton or silk. In the case of a chief, these trousers or drawers are of richly-patterned yellow silk, and often very handsome. Next comes the sarong, which, by the way, is sometimes made to do duty as a scarf by both sexes, who are as tasty in their manipu- lation of this robe as a Spanish lady in Seville.
As an example of the tribal nature of the costume, the inhabitants of many places wear distinctive-pat- terned sarongs ; and though this is not evident to Europeans unacquainted Avith the peculiarities of the people, a Malay will readily tell from what part a stranger comes by a glance at his dress. Speaking generally, however, a Malay's costume in Perak may be said to consist of the loose trousers, baju or jacket — which is made of any kind of material to suit the fancy — and the sarong.
The chiefs have taken a great fancy of late to a natty and very eftective little skull-cap, of a military
L 2
148 "SARONO" AND "KRlS."
shape, and tlie use of this has extended amongst the better chesses of the people. It is gr-ncrally of black and white, and greatly resembles that in favour amongst the Klings, or natives of Southern India, from whom it was probably adopted. But while the Kling delights in making it of gorgeous colours, with which he ornaments his wife and everything appertaining to him, the Malay keeps to modest sober tints ; and a chief will occasionally wear one formed out of a kind of reed, and have a text from the Koran embroidered on the front.
The national headdress however of the Perak Malay is the handkerchief, which is stiffened and tied with a peculiar twist round the head. 'When on a journey, and expecting to be exposed to the weather, it is not uncommon for the hattek or skull-cap to be worn inside the handkerchief, both being arranged in no ungraceful manner, for the 3Ialay has a very good idea of attending to liLs personal appearance. Mr. Crawfurd is of opinion that the !Malay took the idea of his kerchief as worn upon the head from India ; but it Ls far more probable that, like the sarong, it had its origin far enough back, with the original tribes who came from Menang Kal)ow, and who are, as has been intimated, looked up to by the better-class Malays, as the 'ancestors from whom they trace descent.
Another form of headdress often worn is that which has been already alluded to as used by the Malay fishermen for protection from the sun. It is
SUITABLE DRESS. 149
also woi'ii I)}' llic ])easants, Jiiid, in its lunbrella-sliape and cane-work licad-framc, greatly resembles that with which we are familiar in pictures of the people of China and Siam.
AVhere the Malays have associated much with Europeans, and have adopted our ordinary costume, they are much given to the short military patrol jacket, and cover their feet with our socks, and not only the ordinary, but the patent-leather shoe ; though they have not yet adopted our chimney-pot hat. Still the sarong is retained ; and in these cases it never looks incongruous ; for, startling as the state- ment may seem, a gracefully put on sarong, either with our ordinary dress, or even a military uniform, has not only an admirably picturesque effect, but it is invaluable to the European ; and those who have worn it day and night in these latitudes will, from the better health they have enjoyed, have learned to respect the Malays for their experience-bought know- ledge of what is most suited for their climate. In this question of dress, as well as in more weighty matters, the Malays of the peninsula have good reason to feel grateful to the Maharajah of Johore, who has set an admirable example in adopting the sensilile customs of the Europeans, to the rejection of those unfitted for the climate and absurd.
The Malay wears his hair cut short, or shaved, pre- senting a striking contrast to the Chinaman, with his tail plaited with silken threads, and coaxed down to
ir.O "SARONG" AND " KJiJS."
touch his liocla. Tlio face is little adorned by nature with hair, and is generally denuded of what little ap)>ears, except in the case of the chiefs, who retain a thinly-cut moustache that sometimes reminds one of Albert Smith's description of that worn by a young gentleman of his acquaintance, whose eyebrows seemed to have slipped down on to his upper lip.
The hair of the W(mien, however, is long and luxu- riant, and is kept beautifully clean by means of the juiee of lemon and vegetables, which with the soap- nut makes a good lather, and is either worn over the crown of th(^ head, or twisted up at the back in the universal mode that was perhaps established in the days of our mother Eve. Through this knot, which is often so jetty and massive that it resembles the chig- non of modern European society, are thrust pins — very often of gold ; and on festive days jasmine, chum- 2)akii, and other sweet-smelling flowers are introduced in a coquettish and very tasteful manner. • These pins or bodkins arc called chuchu hundei, and, like the other gold ornaments that are mentioned, are vcr}' fre- quently tinged of a rich red hue, i)robably caused by burning in a charcoal fire ; and seen against the jetty hair, they have an excellent effect, though only second to the flowers.
The ordinary dress of a Malay woman is, amongst the more prosperous, an inner garment of white cotton cloth, covering the breasts, and hanging do\Mi to the hips. Over this is the sarong, held up at the waist
THE FINDING. 151
by a twist, as in tlic case of the men, and falliiii^^ in graceful folds to the ankles, but further supported by a belt or zone of silver or gold, or of embroidered cloth, and ornamented in front — where an English lady would wear a buckle — by a large oval plate called a pindhig. This is about the size of the oval mount to a photo- graphic cabinet portrait, and is either of silver or gold ; while, in the ease of ladies about the little native palm- palace courts, it is frequently studded with precious stones, and beautifully chased by the native goldsmiths. Over all this is worn a long loose dressing-gown style of garment, called the kahaya. This robe falls to the middle of the leg, and is fastened down the front with circular brooches known by the Malays as krosong.
Very frequently the sarong and kabaya are the only garments ; and when going to bathe — a matter of daily custom amongst the Malay women of Perak and other parts of the country — the sarong is perhaps alone worn ; and it is in these instances that it is neatly and decorously held up close beneath the arm-pits by an ingenious tuck in the folds, the part hanging over the breast being called panchojig. Simple as the Malay woman's costume is, it is far from unbecoming ; and it possesses this advantage, one which will be held in esteem by every paterfamilias in our empire — namely, it never is out of fashion, so as to cause the outcry so cleverly satirised by Mr. Butler — " Nothing to wear."
One necessary part of the female attii'e has how-
152 *' SARONG" AND '' KRlS."
ever been omitted — neccssar)' or unnecessar}', as the case may l»e — namely the salendang^ whicli is a verj' pretty graceful saj^li, made of cotton or silk of the most delicate texture. This is worn over the shoulder or waist, according to the taste of the wearer; fre- quently after the fashion that an English lady wears her Shetland shawl.
Except when walking, an<l likely to meet strangers, or when liable to 1x3 exposed to the sun, the head is seldom covered : and then it is that the second saronjr is thrown over the head, and drawn out, leaving a narrow slit for the eyes. It is worthy of remark that the less bountiful nature has been to the Malay woman in the matter of beauty of feature, the naiTower she contrives that the slit shall be — a work of superero- gation, that, it is to be presumed, is not confined to the ^lalays, since strange use is sometimes made in European countries of a veil or fan.
The covering of the feet is generally omitted by the women, though they in nowise resemble the Chinese in smallness, nor those of European ladies in beauty ; but Malays are very clever in embroidering slippers in gold tinsel, and these, like those of the Turks, are worn by the higher-class ladies just over the toes. By way of protection in walking, they sometimes wear a kind of clog, which is made of a light white wood ; and this is not held on by strap, toe-piece, or leather covering, but by the simple inser- tion of a peg on the top, so arranged that it passes
AN EOOENTRIO 0U8T0M. 153
between the toes, and so holds the clog on in what seems to hv a very precarious and uncomfortable jnanner.
The umbrella, or sunshade, is the property of the nobler sex, and is generally of some gay colour ; while amongst the chiefs it will be of rich silk, and often richly fringed and worked in gold. The use of these protections from the torrid rays is probably borrowed from the Siamese, who are great in umbrellas, many of them being of a very gorgeous kind.
Both male and female wear rings — the fore and little fingers being the most in favour for displaying the ornaments ; but the greatest piece of dandyism observable amongst the Malay gentlemen in the w^ay of decoration — quite equalling the ladies' custom of using henna to their nails — is in the custom of display- ing the status as a man who never works. The custom is that of wearino- the fiuscer-nail lonc^. In one instance, that of Kooloop Mahomed, a relative of the Princess of Perak, the fore-nail of the left hand had been allowed to grow till it was about two inches long. It was carefully tended and kept clean ; while to preserve it from dangers, its owner w^ore it in a sheath, somethino- like a stiffened elons^ated fino-er- stall. Whether this custom has been derived from the Chinese, who have long nails, it is impossible to say, but such a talon always speaks for itself, and says to the world at large : " This gentleman never toils."
Amongst the little points of personal ornamenta-
ir»t ^'SABONd" AND *' KJlIS."
tion a(lo|»tcd l>y tlio ^[alay womon arc the woarinjj of earrings, or ear-jewels, witli swivels, necklaces, and armlets or bangles. Some of these are very beautifully worked in silver and gold like the pinding, the gold- smiths having no mean idea of finish in their art. Less admirable however are their practices of rouging — a custom confined to married ladies alone — and using antimony after the fiishion of kohl, to darken the eyelids, and give a lustrous look to the eyes. But after all, these customs are infinitely preferable to those of the Hindoos, who give a ghastly yellow tinge to their faces, by the use of a powder composed of tuiiueric.
A glance at the engravings will give a veiy good idea of the dress, both of male and female, amongst the Malays, and at the same time it will he seen how fond they are of introducing a little variety, even while adhering to the formal custom of the country in which they dwell.
CHAPTER XV.
The villages of Pcrak — Inhabitants — Causes of depopulation — War — Extent of population — Bird scaring — Malay dwellings — Untidy habits — Bathinsr — House-buildinsr — Chinese and convict labour.
The villages of Perak, wliicli take the place of towns, are, as lias been intimated, nearly all situated on the various rivers. They are mostly of very little im- portance, but as in the opening out of the country they may rise to the dignity of busy commercial emporiums, and as reference to them is made in these pages, it is necessary to give their names. They con- sist of Ohigagala, Kotah Lamah, Korinchi, Saiyong, Boyah, Sengaug, Blanja, Campong Syang, Botah, Pulo Tiga, Passir Sala, Kotah Lumat, Durian Sabatang, Batu Rabit, and Kotastia, on the Perak river, with Kinta and several smaller villages on the river of that name ; Thai-peng and Kamuuting have already been referred to in the Laroot or tin district, but there is also in this district the village of Bukit Ganting, the residence of the Muntri of Perak. Near the Bruas river is the village of Chindrong Klubi ; and on the Kurow river is another village named Mandring
15G "SARONO" AND " KRlS."
8cmboh. Qualla Kuiigsa, so often alluded to, has become; of importance as the military station of the British Govornmont.
Tlic custom of pf)ly<Tamy seems partly to blame for the state of tliese villacjes and the surroundinff country, bringing about, as it has done, a gradual dcj)opulation, misery amongst the people, with slavery, and a variety of otlier abominations ; while no doubt many have fallen \4ctims to smallpox, fevers, and other diseases for which these people have no remedy, l)ut being fatalists, leave them to fate to ])erform the cure.
Doubtless many years ago there was a great drain on the male population, who went across to Sumatra to re-people Acheen, which has been a very hotbed of wars for some time past ; but under a wise and good regime, with the people assured of personal safety and protection for tlieii* property, Perak would have occu- pied a very different position a-s to population to that at present shown. This cpiestion of inhabitants in an uncivilised country is always one that is difficult to decide. There are no adequate means of judging where the villages are scattered in all directions, many being in out-of-the-way spots, perhaps untrodden by a European foot. In fact there is no doubt that the chiefs themselves are in utter ignorance of the numbers of the settled, wandering, and floating population of their district. That of Perak has been variously estimated at from thirty thousand to eighty thousand,
THE POPULATION. 167
with five or six thousand to represent the wihl tribes.
To make an approximation of the numbers Ijy reckoning from the houses and villages on the river- banks, would naturally give a very unsatisfactory and doubtful result ; but after pretty well traversing the country in all directions, the impression made on the writer's mind is that the lower estimate would be about correct. Mr. Birch, however, the late Resident, a man who had seen more of the country than any European, and who had been up every river in the interior, was of opinion that the higher number was correct.
Mr. Birch's opinion may be accepted as reliable ; but it must be taken into consideration that during the disturbances of 1875-76, there most probably was a very extensive emigration across the mountains, to the states of the cast coast ; and if this j)roves to have been the case, there is every prospect of a strong return current as the country becomes, as it is becoming, more settled. This is greatly to be hoped for, since the return of the people to their old homes will add materially to the prosperity of the country.
Though many of the Malays reside in the interior, and on the pathways or tracks through the jungle between the different rivers, the bulk of the population chose the banks of the rivers themselves for setting- up their homes, for many reasons : one of the principal being that as a maritime people and given to boating, here was to a certain extent their habitual life at hand ;
158 **SARONrr' AND '* KRlS."
thougli probably, fear of the tribes whose land they liad invaded, liad something to do with the choice of dwelling of the first settlers of the country. Con- sequently the Perak Malays have come to be known as the tribe of such and such a river, instead of being reckoned as dwellers in a province or district of the c<»untry.
It has already been stated that the rivers arc the chief highways to the sea, and hence they became the means by which the people obtained the supplies brought into the country — such as salt, salt-fish, and the simi)le necessaries on which they depend for support ; while a current of trade set in the other direction, tin and rice being sent out in exchange. This river system has made it very convenient for the chiefs of the country to obtain their dues ; for no sampan or prau goes up or down the river without being s(jueezed by the followers of the chief, whose boats are ready at the canipong at which the lord resides. One is strongly reminded of the robber chieftains, or biirons of the Rhine, in the case of the Perak and its tributaries ; though here the enforced tribute has been exacted in a far milder way.
Another reason, doubtless, for the choice of the banks of a stream for residence is the fact that the ]\lalays, who migrated from Sumatra, became, as they drove back the Aborigines into the interior, accustomed to till the ground for the cultivation of rice, their staple food. For rice is now extensively grown, as it
BIRD HCARINU. 159
lias been cultivated more and iiioni with the progress of civiHsation. This grain, in its mauy varieties, culti- vated on both wet and dry ground, is coming more and more into fashion with the people, especially the dry ground, or mad padi, which yields a crop in the shortest time.
It is, to one who studies the manners and customs of the Malays, curious to see how habits approximate in ditferent countries. One sees the scarecrows and plans laid to keep off the birds at home, and on going thousands of miles away to the clearings in the jungle of the ftir East one meets with them again. That ubiqui- tous bird the sparrow, has been mentioned as amongst the birds of the country, and as he will grub up and devour the peas at home in a suburban garden, so he makes himself, with other mischievous bird-l)andits, busy here. The consequence is that the rice-fields are made grotesque by means of long strings wdiich radiate from little bamboo huts in the centre of the fields. To these strings are attached bells, dolls, feathers, rags, anything light and striking, and seated in the hut is a little Malay boy or girl, w^hose sole costume is a red chintz or cotton bib, w^hich just covers the chest, while the child's duty is to play spider, arid agitate the webs that emanate from this centre, though not to attract, but to drive the birds aw^ay. Miniature windmills, too, are set up to spin round and rattle in the breeze ; but the sparrows of Perak are as impudent as those elsewhere, and often treat these plans with contempt.
160 "SABONO*' AND " KBiS."
Allusion hiia jilivady been made to the harvesting, which is here ;i time of rejoiciiif^, as at home ; but it has not been said tliat prejudice necessitates the cutting of the rice stidks one by one, while the valuable straw is destroyed and burnt, its ashes being about the only manure that superstition allows the Malay to apply to his laud.
Situated as it is, with the river flowing before it, the appearance of a Mahiy ^•illage amongst its palms and other fruit trees is exceedingly picturesque, the graceful aspect of the waving trees, with their beau- tiful columnar trunks, and fciither}- fronds, shading the quaint bamboo palm-thatched structures, being pleasing in the extreme. There is but little attention paid to order ; but the houses are placed here and there according to the taste and convenience of the o^Mier, who readily plants cocoa-nut trees around, though he has to wait about seven years for their fruiting. When there are so many houses that a double row occupies the river-bank, a line of communication exists between them that does not deserve the title of road, for the Malay never thinks of constructing anything of this kind, but leaves as much as possible to Dame Nature. In this case the houses are built, and as the people walk to and fro the path comes of itself.
Below the houses — as jnay be seen in the illustra- tion, which gives a very good general impression of an ordinary Malay village — posts are driven into the soil, and upon these small sheds are erected, which serve as
BATHING. 161
I);illiiiii;--pIa(;os, and are extensively used hy ])oth men and women, and it is upon tlie palm-tliatcli of these places that the sarong is thrown as a sign of occupation. In fact, it is a rare thing to go up or down a. river without seeing someone bathing, for the Malays of both sexes arc very fond of the water ; but o-reat care has to be taken on account of the allio^ators, which are in places exceedingly numerous. After a bath the all-important sarong frequently occupies the place of a towel ; and amongst the better classes cosmetiqucs are used to rub the body, which at other times, if not sufficiently lithe and pliable at the joints, is made to undergo a kind of shampooing or kneading, the joints being folded, the limbs stretched and pulled, and the knuckles carefully cracked ; but this is gene- rally when the Malay is ailing, or suffering from "wind in the joints."
The residence of the Malay is invariably built upon posts, some of which are close to and over the water, though there are no floating bamboo raft-houses as iu Siam. The floor is from four to six feet above the ground; in fact, iu the jungle, houses may be found built upon the natural posts formed by the growing trees, the floor, which is reached by a ladder, Ijeing fifteen, twenty, or even thirty feet from the ground. This is for protection from wild beasts, cases having been known of that formidable cat, the tiger, entering a hut and bearing its occupant away.
The Malay who desires to have a comfortable
H',2 "SARONG" AND '' KlilS."
liome literally builds two bouses or buts — ono at tbe back of tbe otlier — separately roofed, ])ut witb a way of corumuiiieation to join tbem and form one sbelter. Tbe front bouse is the place for general reception ; wliile tlic l)ack, wliicb is sbut off by a doorway and curtain, is tbe exclusive borne of tbe women and cbildren. Again, bebind tbis, tbere is a kind of sbed or lean-to, in wbicli tbo ordinary domestic arrangements, sucli as cooking and preparing food, are carried on.
Tbe ground-floor, if it may be so called — tbat is to say tbe space between tbe supporting posts — is tbe general receptacle of all tbe dirt and refuse of tbe family ; and so wanting in sanitary an'anfjements, and so idle is tbe Malay peasant, tbat sooner tban construct drains, or clear away tbis rubbisb, be will allow it to lie and fester, so tbat it very frequently brings on ailments wbicb a due attention to cleanliness would bave warded off.
Palm and bamboo are tbe ebief villa fje buildinfj materials, tbougb in tbe Settlements good bouses are constructed of bricks, for wbicb tbere is plenty of ex- cellent clay, wbile lime made from tbe limestone coral tbat abounds is easily procurable. It is mostly pre- pared by tbe Cbinese, wbo build up a kiln of alternate la}'ers of coral and timber, and after tbe requisite burning, a ready sale is found.
Tbe uprigbts of a bouse and its sides baving been constructed of bamboo or palm by tbe Malay of a
HOUSE-BUILVING. 163
campong, lie makes tlie flooring oithor of bamboo, or, what is preferable, the iiiljoiig palm, which can readily be split into laths. This flooring is clastic, and not unpleasant to bare feet ; and upon it the jjcoplc, who sit upon the floor, are in the habit of spreading mats, which form their seats by day and beds l)y night. The sides of a house of the lower class are either made of the bark of trees or of split reeds : but in the better- class houses the walls are of far more elaborate work, being sometimes composed of planks which are labo- riously cut from the serayah tree, though more often of a kind of mat which is in very general use. These mats arc called kadjangs, and are made of the leaves of a kind of palm, carefully dried in the sun, and then literally stitched together wdth the universal rattan ; for the Malay is most apt in the way in which he utilises the abundant materials that nature has placed to his hand.
Windows are not forgotten, and these are placed at a heio-ht suitable to the convenience of a srazer seated upon the floor ; and in the better-class houses they are provided with a mat shutter, and a great deal of tasty w^ork is visible in their framing. But, just as in our own land, there are very careless builders ; and in some of the poorer houses, the sup- ports being held together with rattans instead of nails, these former work loose, and at last the whole house goes over bodily right out of the perpendicular.
In such a case it might be supposed that, with
M 2
164 ''HAEONd" AND " KRlS."
abundant materials in tlie jungle, the Malay would at once proceed to rebuild. He does nothing of the kind ; but evidently content with feeling that the slip has tightened the rattan bushings of lus home, he ac- commodates himself to the new circumstances, and to the want of the horizontal in his dwelling, and goes on perfectly happy in the feeling that he is after all not called uix>n to take the trouble to rebuild his hut. In fact, there seems to l)e a belief that it is unlucky to pull down the old dilapidated dwelling, which stands till it falls ; and the Malay strongly reminds one, in his home arrangements, of the Irish cotter, who could not get at tlie roof of his house to mend it when it was wet, while when it was dry it did not need repair.
The universal roofing of a Perak house is attap stretched over bamboo rafters and ridge-poles. This attap is the tlried leaf of the nipah-palm, doubled over a small stick of bamboo or nibong. -The pieces of attap for roofing are generally about four feet in length, and are bound on to the rafters with ratUins"; series overlapping series, and forming a splendid rain- proof thatch. Like all thatches, however, the attap will show tender places in time ; when the Malays, instead of re-covering the whole roof, ingeniously in- troduce new leaves in the bad spots ; for when driven to take measures, they are adepts at saving themselves trouble. AMiere extra protection seems to be needed, it is not uncommon for palm-leaves to be laid along
OHINESE AND OONVIOT LABOUR. 165
the ridge of a roof over tlic pok^ the leaflets l)eing tightly phiited in and out ; these eff"orts to obtain a waterproof roof being very necessary in a land where iit times tlie rains are exceedingly heavy.
The attap makes a very cool and pleasant roofing material, and is used extensively by the Europeans of the Settlements, in place of slates or tiles for their dwellings ; the former having to be brought from England at great cost and risk of breakage, while the latter are not easily procurable of good quality ; those of Malacca however are the best. The objections to the attap-thatch are its inflammability and want of lasting qualities, since it has to be renewed every three o^ f^^^^^' years. It is still however used over the European barracks, and for the roofs of many of the residences in the Settlements.
The best European residence in Perak is one that was built by the Assistant-resident in Laroot — a house to which allusion was made as overlooking the tin mines of Thai-peng. In this case adze-squared timber was used ; some portions of the verandah, rails, doors, and flooring, being actually planed — a wonderful novelty in Perak ; while- — greater novelty still — some of the tim-bers were painted ; but a great part of this was done by means of Chinese labour, which is far more costly and finished than that of the Malay.
At the same time, it must be granted, that the Malays are very ingenious in the construction of their
166 *'8AliONG*' AND "KRlS."
houses, a great part of tlie work Dein^]^ done with a tool which they call a hiUoiuj. It is made of iron, and is 80 constructed that it can be shifted in it« rattan socket, an<l hccomos cither adze or hatchet at the workman's pleasure. Still, for any particular or neat joiners' work, the Euiopeans are mostly dependent on theChines<\ who have erected nearly all the handsome dwellings in the British Settlements north and south of Perak ; though a large share of praise is due to the admirable application of convict labour. These con- victs, mostly from India, were emph^yed generally in the construction of our roads, and in building the Government House, that handsome stnicturc the cathedral at Singapore, and other public buildings both at Penang and Malacca ; but trans])ortation to the Straits Settlements has ceased for many years, and India now sends her convicts to the Andaman Islands.
CHAPTER XXL
House-building — Inchc Maida — Campougs — Picking the Cocoa-nut — Preparations — Poultry — Sambals.
The Malay, when put to the test, and compelled by necessity to work for his own benefit, is by no means slow in protecting himself from the elements. After a weary heating walk through the jungle, and securing his return journey by blazing or marking the trees with his parang, he does not think of lying do\ATi upon the ground to rest, but rapidly fits up a few posts, and a floor upon them, a yard above the level, places a palm-leaf roof over the structure, and then protects his loins from the wind as he lies down, by means of a few palm-leaves.
But it is in the building of a chiefs house that the best efforts are put forth ; and very picturesque are some of the efforts in this way, with their neat thatching, matted windows, and elegantly-woven sides, gracefully shadowed by the beautiful growth of palms ; though there are irreverent Englishmen found ready to make comparisons between these jungle palaces and the barns of their native land.
IG8 ''SARONG" .\M> ''KRIS."
A house of this kind will Ixi decorated by the sides being formed of matting composed of sjjlit reeds, woven into a neat check pattern, red and wliite ; wdiile other i)arts are of strips of bamboo neatly interlaced. An rlcgant lattice-work is often intro- duced with admirable effect, and various little efforts are made to embellish a building that is thoroughly in keeping with the jungle seene. Such a place will be protected by surrounding it with a stout fence of split bamboo ; the best example of this being at the home of the Muntri r»f Laroot, at Bukit Gantang, which is perhaps one of the best-built places in Perak. At times these fences are so strong th.lt they will throw off a musket-ball ; and those not acquainted with the country, who have come across these jKigars, as they are called, have taken them for the stockades used by the Malays in time of war. Sometimes these fences are merely placed round the base of a house itself, thus enclosing the open part between the jxjsts through which an enemy could otherwise make his way. A necessary precaution ; for it is said that at times, where revenge is sought, a Malay will wait till his enemy is at rest, and then, having obtained a knowledge of where he sleeps, will go beneath the house and pass his kris between the palm-strip floor- ing into the recumbent" body — the mat which forms the unfortunate person's only betl l^eing no protection against the keenly-jiointed blade.
The residence of the Princess of Perak at Qualla
//
INCUE MMD.VS UOUSE. 169
Kungsa gives — ;is will Im scciii in the. illustration, from 11 pliotograpli taken by the author during the Governor's i)rogress — a very full idea of a Malay noble's residence. The house to the left is really the kitchen, while that on the right is, as far as its principal apartment is concerned, fitted up with a bed which occupies about two-thirds of the room, greatly resemblino' in the matter of size the Bed of Ware. This house, with the whole of the campong adjoining, was placed by Inche ]\Iaida at the disposal of the British during the disturbances, and formed the head- quarters of the general commanding and the com- missioner with the contingent of troops from India.
Inche Maida's principal apartment boasted little furniture ; but the bed possessed a coverlid of red calico with an ornamental border, and curtains meant as a protection from the mosquitoes, but of a texture stout enouo'h to set at naught the attack of a swarm of locusts. Down the centre extended a long pillow, or "Dutch wife," ornamented at either end with gold brocade embroidery, the work of the princess's own fingers ; while round pillows similarly worked finished off the head of the bed. Upon the intro- duction taking place between general and princess, the lady claimed the former as her guest, and \dt\i all the pride of an English country dame of the last century over her well-filled ticks, drew his attention to the bed, which had been, she said, prepared regard- less of expense ; but the general was so simple in his
170 "SAJIOXO" AND "KI{IS."
tastes that hu prefeiTcd to make his restiug-placc of a camp-cot.
Thrre arc ]Mahiy chiefs tliougli, who, having been more in contact with European civilisiition, follow our example not only in dress but in the construction of their dwellings. One instance of this is found in Riijali liot, ruler of Lookoot in the Soonghy Ujong territory near Malacca, who has su})plied himself with a house precisely similar to that which would be built by a European ; while ascending higher in the scale of improvement we liave the palace of the ruler of Johore,. at Johore Bahru or New Johore, which has been built somewhat on the model of our own Government House at Singai)ore, the Balei or Hall of Audience being' altogether unique in its exquisite taste and elegance. Lookoot and Johore have, how- ever, been for many years on the bordei-s of European civilisation. Going north though, we have the Kajah of Quedah making similar advances ; . the impulse bein<4 doubtless mven by our settlements in Penancj and Province Wellesley. This latter chief has gone so for as to have the grounds about his palace taste- fully laid out with gravelled paths, flower-beds, shrubberies, fish-ponds, and vai'ious other adjuncts of a wealthy person's garden at home.
In such a house as that of the Princess of Perak the bedding is formed only of mats ; one of these and the sarong for cover being all that a Malay in this hot climate seems to need. The apartments are divided
CAMPONG HOUSES. 171
l>y curtains, and a tasty effect is produced Ly the use of hangings of dimity or cliintz upon tlic Mails; the ccilinos of roui»h thatch and bam])oo hchifi: covered Avith the same material of various patterns. But the ]\[alay ladies, as in the case of Inche ]\Iaida and her coverlid and pillows, are very clever in embroidering on frames, producing very pretty effects with silk and gold threads or tinsel, which they are fond of working in patterns on red and white cloth.
The various objects that take attention about the poorer houses of a campong are very interesting. On approaching a hut, with its ladder-like flight of steps to the door, close by will be seen the small enclosed shed or granary, with sides of bark, in which the Malay stores his rice for the family during the season. Inside the hut, and swino-ino; from a rafter of the ceiling, is that universal adjunct to a married home — the cradle, with its little dusky occupant fast asleep. A couple of children of larger growth, nude save the chintz bib hanging from their necks, have taken a peep at the strangers and bounded away ; or probably the mother has been encountered carrying one, w^alking with a firm, elastic swing, with the child sitting astride upon one of her shoulders. These brown -skinned little fellows are not without edu- cation ; for where there are native schools, antiquity asserts itself, and they are seen, as we have read of them in the old geographical works dealing with Arabia, seated upon the floor before boards covered
172 "SARONG" AND ** KBlS."
Avitli sand, upon wliicli they arc taught to trace the Arabic cliaractci-s Avitli the })oints of tlieir fingers. The way ii]» to tlic house has been along a narrow track, for the Mnhiys never walk abreast, but always in single file, and so silent is the place that but for the to])s of the huts it might be imagined that no trace of habitation was near.
About the houses the tamed pets of the Malays may be noticed — doves, minahs, or parrots, with occasionally a monkey ; but as a nile the huts alone ai'c seen, the natives avoiding the sight of a stranger, more often than not from fear. Verj' frequently, however, an offering in the way of hospitality is laid where the stranger can find it, this being a cocoa-nut fresh and gi'cen ; though where the people are not so shy, the fruit is fetched for the traveller by one of the Malays, who, if he be unprovided with one of the monke3's to screw off the stalk, will himself take a band, make of it a sling which embraces the tree and* his body, and then i)roceed to climb one of his fruit-trees for the refreshing nut. This he does by himging back against the sling and pressing his feet against the leaf knots in the bark, shifting his band and his feet alternately, and gaining about twenty inches at a time as he ascends ; of course grasj)ing the tree stem tightly vdth his hands the while, till he reaches the cro\\Ti of great leaves, when, selecting a suitable nut, it is lopped off by a blow from his parang or knife, and falls to the ground.
COCOA-NUT riiEPAUATIONS. 173
At times, however, tlic Malay cuts little steps for his toes in the sides of the trees, and climbs tliem in this manner. When this fresh green cocoa-nut is opened for the visitor with the parang, its contents are not the hard white nut to which wc arc accustomed, but a grateful sul)-a('id water, very refreshing after a journey through the forest.
This cocoa-nut is one of the most valuable of the Malay's home fruits, and it is used at different periods on its journey to ripeness. At one time it is soft and white inside, and can be eaten with a spoon ; while when the nut grows hard it is either boiled for its oil or rasped and. steeped, and its milky juice used in a variety of ways for cooking.
The common people have two ways of performing this rasping process, not being at all deficient in culinary utensils. One way is to pass the nut rapidly over an iron implement, shaped like a military spur, the other is by rubbing on a sort of coarse wire brush, whose bristles are short pieces of wire stuck in a small neatly-formed board.
This rasped cocoa-nut enters largely into their food preparations, and is particularly palatable, esj^ecially in curries, which can never be tasted in perfection except ill the east, on account of the absence of fresh cocoa-nuts and other inoTedients.
Mutton is generally unknown, but beef, in the form of buffalo flesh, is much in favour with the Malays, who use it when on journeys, after cutting it in strips.
17 V '* SARONG'' AND "KHIS."
whicli are driod in tlic sun ; the intense lieat acting upon tlio meat too ra]>i«lly to allow of <lecomi»osition taking place, and jji-cpared in this way it is very tender and good. Fish is of course largely eaten, for a Malay never loses an opportunity of (Pitching those of river and sea; but he would think it a sin to cut or crimp it when alive, and carefully puts it to death before it is prepared for food. Salt fish is largely consumed, and l)rought from long distances into the interior, with large quantities of sun-made sidt.
The Malay has a very good appreciation of poultry, both for his amusement and eating ; hence the familiar crow of the cock is often lieard about the campongs. These people are even discriminating in their choice of them for food, but choose those which would be rejected by every good English housewife, who is particular to pick out clean, white- legged Dorkings, while the jMalay epicure prefers his poultry with l)lack joints, considering them far better and more tender.
It may be interesting to the reader to have the description of ^lalay mixtures or sambals for eating with curr}', as it will doubtless seem more appetising than the blachang or fish condiment, ahvady described as being composed of putrescent slmmps mashed up in the sun. For the mixtures to eat with his curry, which is always of a very simple kind, the Malay takes dried prawns, cut cucumber — sliced in cocoa-nut milk, chillies ground up into a pulp, yam carefully
8 AM HALS. 175
cooked and chopped smuU, the baliml)iiig fruit cut into pieces, mangoes occasionally, cliutnies of various kinds, and green ginger shredded small with vinegar. These mixtures are served up on saucers, and eaten with the I'urry, as we English at home eat pickles, and salad from those handy gibbous-moon plates which are seen ' at some highly-civilised tables. And it is not only amongst the Malays that this custom obtains, for the Chinese and Japanese have trays especially designed for their sambals or sweetmeats. These trays are circular, and have the appearance of a large Pope Joan board, only that the divisions are saucers to contain the mixtures.
In India the curries themselves are made hot with chillies, but the ]\lalay makes his curry of very simple materials, with a great deal of cocoa-nut milk therein. Very often the dish is entirely vegetable, and the hot spices are mixed in the sambal or condiment which is eaten therewith. Takino- it for wanted that the
O O
native knows best what is suited for the disjestion in his climate, this custom is freely followed by the European residents, who add the curry mixture to their breakfast and dinner as a rule.
But it is with theii* staple food — rice- — ^that the Malays, whose right hands are cunning in culinary preparations, contrive their greatest variety of dishes. It is eaten dry or parched ; plain boiled, after being washed by these particular people in six or seven different w\aters ; made into cakes with scraped
17G **SABOya" AX1> "A7i7.S."
cocoa-nut and sugar, and then neatly ananged in a scrap of cocoa-nut leaf, which is pinned together with one of the native pins — that is to say, a tiny skewer of bam1>oo. Plantain-leaves too arc great favourites for food {jurjioses, and are often iised as dishes from which the native eats his rice ; and it is needless to say that such nature-supplied dishes are never washed, but renewed from the garden for the mor- row's meal ; while should a convenient fire for cooking be required, nature has sujiplied a stove and fuel ready to lian<l, which will go on burning at a powerful red heat for many days. This unpatented stove is the mound of the white ant, which contains in itself all the necessaries for this sustained com- Ijustion, supplying a want and at the same time getting rid of a noxious pest ; as an antidote to which the Malays use one kind of wood-oil, or this product in combination with arsenic and sugar of lead.
CHAPTER XVII.
Pood — Tobacco— Opium-smoking — Betel-chewiug — Toddy — Ai*ak — Domestic implements — Dammar — Metal work — Gold filigree.
A PEOPLE who arc fond of condiments to flavour their simple preparations of rice, and who are enor- mous eaters of fruit, may very naturally he supposed to have a taste for sweets, and this is the case. One of their favourite dishes is a sort of syllabub, com- posed of sago, which the palm yields them in abun- dance, boiled down with sugar, and covered with cocoa-nut milk. This is known as hooboor. These are but a few of the culinary preparations of the Malay, who has in addition his sugar-cane, of which he is inordinately fond — eating it largely raw, and taking lengths of it, to peel off the silicious skin, and then cut it in convenient pieces for chewing; maize, and the rice, and abundant fruits and vege- tables— onions among the latter being great favourites ; while by way of luxury the use of tobacco is not at all uncommon.
N
178 *'8M0NQ" AND ''KRl8."
As a rule the Mahiy prefers Javanese tobacco, but failing this ho, uses his own coarse preparation of the leaf, grown in his own patch of garden, with very little troul)h'. He makes no hubblc-bubl)lc pipe as a rule — though these are occasionally constructed out of the native tin — but contents himself with one rapidly extemporised out of a cutting of bamboo for bowl, and a shoot of the same for stem. More frequently, however, he goes to nature in her simplest form to aid him in what some people would call his very bad habit. Turning to his universal friend, the palm, he obtaiiLs from it a supply of cigarette papers ; in other words, he takes the roko, or outer sheath of the palm-leaf, or else the thin sheath of the plantain, or pisang, rolls in it a little tobacco, forming rather a large cigarette, and smokes in peace. In fact, in no part of the world has nature furnished man with so many means to his hand for supplying his simple wants ; and even when these simple wants gi-ow into those of a more luxurious kind, the forest still seems to provide a never-failing store, only asking to be sought for by those who need.
For opium - smoking the ]\Ialay is doubtless indebted to the nations farther east. It is not greatly practised by the poorer Alalays, but it is a luxury too frequently indulged in Ijy the chiefs, to the gi-eat detriment of their health and mental vigour. This, of course, is from the excess of use ; for there are authorities of gi'cat experience who tell of the practice of smoking opium being carried on to an extreme old
OPIUM.SMOKINO. 179
uiTo- witlioiit clclcterious effects. There is no doubt, however, that when ii man becomes a slave to the liabit, decrepitude, loss of appetite, and a miserable early death result. The Chinaman is the greatest consumer of the di-ug in the peninsula, and in the Settlements either smokes at home, or goes to one or other of the opium-houses.
The process of smoking opium luis often been described — perhaps never more vigorously than by the late Mr. Charles Dickens — but it is so peculiar a prac- tice that it may bear repetition. The opium as used by the smoker has been purified from the coarse, heav}% dank-smelling gum of commerce, roughly pre- pared from the poppies grown for the purpose, and when ready resembles thick treacle in consistency. This is placed ready to the chiefs hand, and he then reclines upon his mat and takes his oj)ium-pipe, which is generally of thin cane, with a metallic bowd. A tray with a lamp and a little fork form part of the paraphernalia. Upon this fork a little bit of opium is twisted up and applied to the pipe, which in turn is held to the flame of the lamp, and the little point or fork is used to keep up the supply of opium, clear the pipe, and generally, so to speak, stoke or poke the tiny fire, so that it receives a sufficient supply of oxygen. This kind of smoking is quite a serious matter, and takes as much time as a Turkish bath, the smoker having to sink into a state of lethargy, enjoy his dreams, and lie passive till he wakes. In fact, it
N 2
180 *'8AB0NG" AND *'KIil8."
is a kind of intoxication, during wliicli he who indulges sinks into a state that sliould only l)e allow- able to calm the anguish of a tenible disease. Then it would bo a valuable medical aid, but as an indul- gence, it is degrading to mankind, and sensual in the extreme.
The habit of betel-chewing is not much to be com- mended, but it is universal, and seems not to Ixi injurious to those who practise it. In fact, betel-chewing is so national a custom with the ^lalay that he vsdll actually reckon time by the space occupied in the consumption of a "quid ;" the term is vulgar, but too approi)riate not to be used. For instance, a Malay visits you on business, and sitting down he will not commence the object of his mission until such a time has elapsed as he considers that the chewing of his betel should take. During this interval he is most probably squatted upon his heels, looking remarkably absurd, with his mouth distended, his eyes half-closed; unable almost to speak save in monosyllables or grunts. There are exceptions, however, many Malays holding the betel between the upper lip and teeth, and conversing pretty freely.
Both sexes indulge in this habit, w^hich is com- menced at a very earl}'' age ; and extends from the lowest, who carry their supply in a bag, to the Sultan,' in whose regalia there are a certain number of betel- boxes, some of the choicest make. Its use, to quote the quaint saying, is probably "as old as the hiUs."
THE BETEL. 181
III looking Icick into ancient chronicles, it is found tliiit according to Salmasius, even in tli(3 first century, betel formed an article of commerce, and was sent from the Golden Chersonese for lovers of the drug in Arabia and Persia, and that as a compound it was sold in the markets of those countries under the name given to it by the Greeks of Mala-hathron — hathron being the name for the betel, or areca })alm, or the betel of Mala or Ta-Mala. No doubt it was known to the Arabs long before this period, and it is worthy of note that the Arabic name Tamhal has some resemblance to Ta-Mala. In fact, as the ingredients of the mixture as used have always been produced in. the Malay peninsula in the highest perfection, and the habit of chewing it is more prevalent there than probably among any people on the face of the globe, it may not be unreasonable to draw from the above a further proof of the extremely early acquaintance of the nations of the more Western lands with the Ta- Mala, Tanah Malai, or Land of the Malays, which has previously been suggested as the notable Ophir of Solomon.
This betel is a curious mixture, being composed of several ingredients, according to the taste or quality of the person using it. Generally, however, it .is the leaves of the sirih, a creeping plant, that is trained up a stick, and much cultivated in gardens. It is probably one of the pepper family ; and its leaves are gathered, tied in little bundles of fifteen or twenty,
182 ** SARONG" AND *'KBl8:*
and Sold at the bazaars or little shops of tlie villages. The sccoinl component is the nut of the arecii-palm, or bctol-uut, which grows in clusters on the tree, and somewhat resembles a nutmc;; with a yellowish fibrous coating. These nuts are also sold by the dealers ; and for the convenience of the purchaser a quaint-looking instrument, like a combination of nut- crackers and scissors, is kept at hand, to enable the chewer to break up the nut into small pieces. Next, there is a fine kind of lime, formed by burning sea- shells, and kept like a paste in a brass box about the size of that used for tooth-powder at home, while the more luxurious use gambler, sold in strips or cikes of a gum somew^hat like jujube — this to give astringency — and a clove — which, by the way, is an expensive luxury in these parts.
The betel-chewcr, thus provided, takes a sirih leaf from his bag, smears a little lime upon it from his box, places a scrap of areca-nut upon the lime, rolls and folds the leaf up into a neat httle packet, and transfers it to his mouth, where after a little masti- cation the saliva bt-fjins to assume a vermilion hue, and the custom for which our . siiilors have become famous is in full force. Where, however, it is a rajah who is chewing betel, he uses a spittoon, frequently shaped like a handsome chalice, and of pure gold. In such a case the chief has a regular tray l^efore him, be;ning the spittoon and limo-l)ox, and another for betel, full of compartments containing spices as weU^
liETJ'JL-CIII'JWINd. 183
His wives, stationed behind him, are employed bcat- iii<^- lip tlie components, to save trouble in mastication ; iind, nsing a ('uriously-elougated pestle and mortar of brass, they beat nut, leaf, and gum into a red past(i, which is priisented to the ]-ajah on a bright copper spatula, which he draws across his tongue, chews, and is supremely happy.
This brass pestle and mortar are also used by old people whose dentition has become imperfect or worn out. The flavour of the betel-nut, if tested by a European, is very pungent, aromatic, and astringent ; and one essay is generally sufficient to decide the experimentalist that betel-chewing is not a practice or vice that it is worth while to contract, even though it is sedative, and probably intoxicating to a certain extent. The efl"ect is to stain the teeth of a dark red, in some cases almost black, and seen in a young girl this is to a European anything but pleasant ; but the Malays l)elicve it to be a great addition to a person's appearance. They consider it to be a sign of refine- ment, and say that it is only monkeys and other animals who should glory in the possession of white teeth — a saying by no means complimentary to the European residents of the place. This betel-chewing seems hovrever to possess one good quality — namely, that of preserving the teeth ; for that racking pain of civilised life, the toothache, is rarely heard of in Perak or the neighbouring states.
The following quaint description of betel-chewing
184 ''SARONG" AND " A7.7.SV
jimongst tho ncigliboui-s of the Malays of Perak, the Siamese, tliougli bearing somewhat the nature of a repetition, is worthy of notiee from showing how tliorouglily similar was the custom in the past to that of the present <la\ . 'I'he account was written by De la Louhere, the French envoy, nearly two hundred years ago.
Tlif Afrra, Avhii-li ihc JSiaincses do call iVt/w, is a kiml of great acorn, •\vliich yd wants that Avooden cup wherein our acorn gnjws*. "When this fruit is yet tender, it has at the center or lieart a gre3'i^^h suhstance, which is as soft as pap. As it drys it waxes yellowev and harder, and the soft substance it has at the heart grows hanl too. It is always very bitter and savorj'. After having cut it into four parts with a knife, they take a piece every time and chew it with a leaf resembling ivy, called lietel by the Europeans which are at the Lidies, and Mak by the .Siameses. They vrrap it up to put it the nioi-e easily into the mouth, and do put on each a small (juantity of lime made of cockle-.shells, and redded by I know not what art. For this rejison the Intfiutis do idways carry this sort of luue in a very little china dish, for they put so little on everj' leaf that they consume not much in a day, altho' they incessantly make use of the Arvcn and the lietf^L Tin- Areni wliilst tender wholly consumes in the mouth, but the dry always leaves some remains.
The sensible effect of this acorn and this leaf is to excite much ppitting, if they care not to swallow the juice ; but it is gootl to spit out the two or thixjc first mouthfuls at least, to avoid swallow- ing the lime. The other less .seiisilile effects, but which axv not doubted in the IwUvi<, are to carry from the gums, jjcrhaps by reason of the lime, whatever may prejudice them ; and to fortifie the stomach, either by reason" of the juice, that is swallowed at plea.sure, and which may have this ([uality, or by reason of the superfluous moistim-s which they discharge by spitting. Thus have I never foimd any person at 8iam with a stinking breath, which may be an effect of their natund sobriety. Now as the Areca
TODDY. 185
and Hi til do cnnsi^ ii red sjtittle indopcjidcntly on tlic red limn wliicli is luix'd tliciuwith, so tlioy loavu a vtniiiilion tincture on the lips and Iffth. it i)asses over the lips, but by little and little it thickens on the teeth till thoy become black ; so that persons that d('lij,dit in neiitnisss do blacken their teeth, l)y reason that otherwise the si)ittle of the Arcca and Betel, niix'd ■with the natural Avhite- noss of the teeth, causes an unpleasant efrect, Avhich is remarked in the common people. I shall transiently declare that the vermilion lips, "which the Sianieses saw in the pictures of our ladies "wbich we had carried to this country, made them to say that we must needs have in France better Betel than theirs. To blacken their teeth they do thereon put some pieces of very soAvro lemon, which they hold on their jaws or lips for an hour or more. They report that this softens the teeth a little. They afterwards rub them with a juice, which proceeds either from a certain root or from the Coco when they are burnt, and so the operation is performed.
Betcl-cliewing, combined with the ordinances of Mahomet, probably accounts for the fact that the Mahays are not much given to drinking to excess. There are, however, intoxicating drinks in the country, one of which, known as samshoo, is prepared by fermenting rice, and is chiefly used by the Chinese settlers, the native having ready to his hand the toddy of the palm. This is obtained by simply climbing the tree and tapping it in a particular place, just among the great fresh leaves, when the sap or juice exudes, and runs pretty copiously into the little earthen jars which the Malay ties beneath. When the juice first runs from the tree it is sweet and perfectly innocent as a beverage, but if left a short time, the heat of the sun produces fermentation, and an intoxicating drink is the result.
18C ** SARONG" AND " Kllls:'
Aiyilc, as it is callrd, is an intoxicating^ spirit evidently produced by distillation, which is, however, practised to a very small extent in Perak, though the Malays know the still, or alembic, whose use they were probably taught l>y the Ambs. They call it kukusan, from a word which signifies smoke or steam. That distillation is not more practised is explained by the case with which foiTnentod licpior can be obtained, nature's process with the palm-juice being thoroughly appreciated by one who looks upon matters requiring effort as soosa — trouble.
Domestic implements arc not xery abundant in Perak, but the people seem to have all their simple wants demand. The popular plate or dish has already been mentioned as growing on the palm-tree, some of whose leaves make a covering to be envied, being a spear-blade ten feet long by as much as four feet in its gi-eatest width. To the palm, or pisang, they go for leaves for wrappers ; palm-sheaths frtrm cii.ses instead of paper for parcels, or they are cleverly skewered together with splints of bamboo, and become buckets that will hold water : or better still, a thick bamboo three or four feet h^ng, is a vcr}' convenient water vessel, and is often seen stjinding up against a hut. Buckets are also made from the outer bark or skin of the plantain, across which a stick is tied, and a rope attached for drawing up water from the river for drinking or bathing purposes ; for the natives do not as a rule difj wells, and it is a matter of custom
DAMMAR. 187
to wash the feet after a journey before entering a liouse.
Iron vessels are not pleutiliil, but many families have a kind of pan whieli they use in their cooking, while the half shell of a cocoa-nut, with a stick passed through two holes near the edge, forms a capital ladle. The cleverness of the women at embroidery has been mentioned ; they are also adepts at netting, while the men can scheme a basket or cage out of a few rattans and a bit or two of bamboo in a very short time. In this w\ay they will twist together a cage big enough to carry a wild cat, monkey, or the largest bird, and all made and tied with freshly-gathered rattans.
If the Malay requires a light for his house he has but to procure a cymba shell, laying in it a wiok formed of fibrous wood or pith, filling the shell '^ith oil from cocoa-nut or palm, and he has a lamp of antique pattern and graceful shape. If, on the contrary, the light is to illumine the way through the jungle, or to keep oft' troublesome beasts, a rough torch is readily made of the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree tied too-ether: but the better kind are formed of a resinous product known as dammar. This is placed between palm leaves, and burns fiercely with a capital light ; w^hile for temporary purposes an extempore cresset is often made by fixing an entire cocoa-nut husk on the top of a bamboo pole, and filling the opening with dammar.
This dammar, which is the general Malayan name for resin, is dug out of the forests by the ]\Ialays, and
188 '*SAROXG" AND *' KRlSr
seems to bo the fossilised juices of former growths of tlie jungle, probably palms, aud is of infinite value to a ])fo]>l(' who use no coal. A peculiar kind of this resin has been lately discovered in J^omeo, It is opaque-white, but where broken freshly the fracture is of a beautiful translucent blue, but soon grows opaque on being exposed to the air. Like the dammar of the IMalay, it bums ver}' readily, and is the more remark- able from being the fossil production of a land where the conifei^ae or pine family are almost unknown. This curious production, wliieh might almost be looked upon lis a white amber, is now undergoing tests in the laboratoi-}' of the School of Mines, Jermyn Street ; but at the period of writing this work, hius not yet been pronounced ui»on by tlie chemist who is investi- gating its qualities.
Not only are mats woven for the sides of their houses, but very fine ones are often made for orna- mental purposes. Though not especially tidy about their dwellings, the IMalay nations have that most domestic of utensils, a broom, which is made from the mi<lribs of cocoa-nut leaves tied to a bamboo handle ; while among other articles will be found bamboo baskets, and, if the people arc vciy fortunate, a china basin and a spoon. At a rajah's house it is no unusual thing to find a complete tea-set, of which the owner is verv ]>roud, but invariably ff»llows the Chinese fashion of preferring an earthenware teapot to one of other material.
<;i)Li> I'liAduin:. i8t>
Metal finds its way, though, into some of the domestic ntcnsils, the inetid generally Ijcing the nativ(^ tin, of which they construct ewers and watcr- l)ottles. As to gold, the work of some of the better articles is very beautiful, notably the gold and silver flowers presented as tribute to tlic King of Siani. These are some eighteen inches high, and exquisitely worked in filim-ee.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Chinese talljinen— Debt-slavery — Slave-hunting — Punishments — Britisli influences - Difficulties of Residents.
ALLUSfox has been made before to the similarity of lialjit amongst peoples in far-distant parts of the worM. In any county court in our agricultural districts the judge's pest is the ever-recurring case of the tallyman, who summons ten or even twenty labourers fur small debts, caused by their wives running up accounts with these travelling drapers and tea-men in their absence. Precisely similar cases take j)lacc in Perak, where, however, there are neither tallymen nor county courts. But the place of the former is taken by the ubiquitous Chinaman, who, in the most adventurous manner, goes off into the interior with his wares, consisting principally of calicoes, chintzes, and sarongs, borne upon the ends of a bamboo, while in one hand he carries a rattle-drum to announce his coming ; this latter being a tiny instnmicnt formed out of three or four inches of hollow bamboo, covered at the ends with python skin, and pierced through the centre
CHINES 1-J 'I'. I /./- y}rJ'JN.
with a stick whioli sei'vcs as a handle. The percussion is caused by means of a pea at tlie end of a string attached to the middle of the l^amboo, which the China- man twists rapidly backwards and forwards by means of the handle as he enters a campong, when the pea strikes first one and tlien the other end of tlie drum.
This signal has its efi'ect upon the Malay women, whose husbands arc away at work in the fields, and the pedlar's visit is welcomed as readily as that of his prototype in England. Then comes the taking of credit followed by the day of reckoning, when furious quarrels arise ; the husband not unfrequently resenting the demand for payment with his kris, to the serious injury of the heathen pedlar, who is sometimes murdered in the up country, for the sake of the money he has collected in his adventurous rounds.
These sarongs, by the way, are always presenting themselves under fresh auspices : one of the most peculiar uses to which they are put is that of slinging one upon a bamboo, after placing therein the body of an injured or slain man, and the bamboo being lifted on the shoulders of a couple of Malays, the sufierer is borne away in this extemporised litter with ease.
Debt is a serious thing in a land like Perak, where bankruptcy is not exactly paid for with a pound of flesh, as in the days of Sliylock, but with the whole nine or ten stone which form the bankrupt's body, and this too often becomes the creditor's property
192 '' SARONG" AND " KlilS."
for life, tlie iinf(»rtunnt<' debtor's wife and eliildrcn 8UC(rcoding to the l>onda<^(! in their turn.
'I'lic liugi.s may sell himself to another Bugis, if he is indebted to him, and he can at any time rcd(?em himself if he can raise the purchaae-money ; but this Is not tiie case with the Malay, who becomes a slav(^ indeed, and has no way out of his state of bondage, if a debt cannot be paid, the Malay is handi'<l over at once ; and failing himself, his child or some other relative has to take the place, though exceptions are made by which the security of the debt depends on the life of the person alone.
The debtor lives with the family of his creditor, to whose benefit the work done is applied, and even Chinese in the Settlements oljtain the labour of their debtors in this way. In fact, the strict manner of defraying debts is a remarkable trait in the customs or the Malays, who are very punctilious in paying their dues. Damage done by cattle or elephants is appmlsed and paid for, their code of laws containing forfeits for these matters ; while, if the damage l)e nocturmd, and arising from neglect in confining buffaloes, the penalty is particularly severe.
This custom of debt-sLivery exists to a Great extent, and seems, says Mr. Davidson, her Majesty's Resident at Salangore, ■ ** to have arisen from the abuse of an old practice in Malay countries. It is contrary to the ^lahomedan religion for a person born in a ^lahomedan country, and brought up in
SLA VE-HlINTINa. 19 3
tliat faitlj, to Ix' a slave, though the reduction to shivery of tJic Ikittak ])eople, and those who do n<jt profess the Maliomeihiu faitli, seems nowhere pro- hibited by the Liws of that fliith."
Kevoltiiig as shavery is to the feelings of an Englishman, and eminently un-Christian as it is, we must remember that it is a peculiar soil in which it has grown, and not deal with it from our own vantage- ground ; for the slavery of Perak is an institution of the country. That it is a custom at times terribly abused there can be no doubt ; but, on the whole, the regime under which the slave lives is mild and not disadvantageous. Among the evils of slavery, the power of the Sultan or chiefs to seize upon the person of any one to whom they take a fancy, will be treated of in a future chapter, in connection with the Govern- -^ lent of the country. There are, however, other evils, which it is to be hoped have been greatly exaggerated by those who narrate the matters as facts. For instance, it is asserted that the Sakais, or Jacoons, are literally hunted down, captured, sold, and made slaves ; and the late Mr. Birch states that from his experience these people were far worse treated than others of their class ; since they were badly clothed and fed, and made to work excessively hard ; while they were considered as debt-slaves on account of the money that had been expended upon them. It might be considered that these people, accustomed to a wild life, would readily escape to the woods ; but they have little chance of
194 ''SARONG'* AND '' KlilS:*
i^ettincj «iway, aiul tliL* penalties are too heavy, the l(!ast being severe ill-usage, perhaps death ; for if a i\Ialay killed cue of these slaves, it would excite no attention amongst the owner s people.
Instances of this slave-hunting arc not at all uncommon, as recorded by the various Residents ; one of whom specially notifies Perak as the scene of these outrascs. The Sakai women seem to have been frequently hunted down like wild l^easts, becoming with their children slaves through genc' ration jifter generation. Not that this practice is approved of by the ^lalays, who speak very strongly in reprehension of the cruel act ; and in one case that is recorded, where fourteen of the wild people were caught and carried off in chains, attempts were made to discover the offenders and set the Sakais free — though doubtless this was on the action taken by the British Kesident.
Instances are given of death being inflicted for these attempts at flight, and even for far more trivial offences ; whilst one, special in its atrocity, is reported from Salangore. In this case three debt- slaves, two girls and a boy, all under twenty years of age, fled from their master, and took refuge at a place some two miles down the river. They were, however, caught, brought back, and the boy was at once taken to a field and put to death by a thnist from a kris. As, however, it was not the custom to kris or stab girls, these two poor creatures were told by the Rajah's
SLAVE rUNISUMENT, 195
wife that .slio \vus going to kitlie, and tlicy were ordered to ucconipany lic^r to the river. This was oidy a, sliort distance from tlu^ lioiise ; and upon tlu'ir reacliing a log lying in the water, one girl was .seized and huld, while a follower of the Rajah's wife caught the other by the hair, thrust her into the water, and held her head down beneath the surface with his foot until she was dead. The other was then seized in the same manner and drowned ; the poor girls' bodies being afterwards left upon the muddy river's bank, exposed to the attacks of the alligators, until such time as the relations might come and remove them. These were slaves of the Sultan of Salangore, and were killed by order of the Rajah, his second son ; and upon the Sultan expressing anger at the deed, the Rajah generously presented the relatives with winding-sheets for the bodies of the dead. Only a short time subsequent, another son of the same Sultan krissed one of his debt-slaves, not for an actual oftence, but for threatening to become a thief.
One very general way of getting in debt amongst the Malays is through gambling. By an infatuated love of play, a man gets so in debt that_ he gives himself up, with perhaps wife and children, to his successful opponent ; and then, so far from being cured of his mania, he is seized with an insatiable desire to free himself by the same practice, and gambles to raise the money to buy himself from his ow^ner. How often he is successful may be readily surmised. In
o 2
19G *'SAROKO" AXD "KHlS."
fact, it Is almost beyond credence to see how exten- sive is the range of del)t caused by gambling, and how frequently a ^lalay will pledge self or child to his creditor by way of payment.
In addition, there are in Perak many intricate points in connection with the system which make it excessively hard for those innocent of complicity in the incumng of the debt. For instance, the con- traction of a debt by a married man binds his wife and children ; and, what is more, those children who may afterwards be born to him. Again, if an un- married man or woman l)e in debt, and afterwards marry, the husband or wife so taken becomes part of the bond, and the children who result from the mar- riage are in like evil state. Tliuii- destiny is to work, often under hard usage, for the creditor, who must repay himself many times over for his original loss ; and this must be a great temptation to the Malays to keep up the system, though they frankly own that it is wrong, and contrary to the laws of the Proj)het.
One curious fact in connection with this custom, as showing how thoroughly secured a creditor is, deserves mention. In cases where a child is placed with a creditor as a security for a debt, and this child dies, another is supplied in its place ; and in the case of a Eajah, the whole family may be taken into his house.
In spite of the objectionable nature of this custom, and its opposition to progress amongst the people, it
BRITISH INFLUENCE. 197
would Ik' extremely injudicioii.s to try and put a stop to it at once, as it is like dealing with a man's pro- perty to ask him to give up that which produces him his daily supplies, or in some cases represents capital that he has lost. Rigid measures of suppression would be ill-advised and out of j^lace ; for the course to ho taken should be one which would tend to soften and modify by degrees the arduous_ character of the native laws by influence and persuasion, when the example set by the higher classes would presumably result in the customs falling slowly into disuse. This has been the case in the states where British influence has been for some time at work ; and there can be no doubt that, time being given, it would prove to be so here.
Somewhere about 1820, when Sir Stamford Raffles was trying to reform the Mengiring system at Ben- coolen in Sumatra, he laid down certain rules which were admirably adapted to the purpose in view ; for they afi'orded the greatest relief to the debtor con- sistent with the just claims of the creditor. These regulations are quoted in Moor's "Notices of the Indian Ai'chipelago," and are well worthy of repetition here.
Any person avIio liad fallen into the condition of a slave, or was liable to it from inability to pay the amoimt of his debt, might redeem himself by entering into a voluntary contract, "with any person Avho should agree to pay the amomit, to serve for a specified period of time proportionate to the sum paid ; such sum being con- sidered as an advance to be liquidated by a certain definite service to be rendered by the debtor. Thus, in lieu of absolute and un-
198 "8AB0N0" AND ''KRlSr
liiniU'<l 8lav(!rv, will Ik- substituted a system of free and voluntar)' crmtnict, by which the delator or slave enters at once into all tho privilogcH of freedom, subject only to the fultilmcnt of an equitable contract, at the same time that tlie interest of the creditor is fully secured.
Similar regulations would be most ajipropriate for Perak, but would of course be onh' applicaljlc to that slavery which is due solely to debt.
It is much to be desired that in Pei*ak and other native states, now more closely under the win^r of British protection, steps should be taken to al)olLsh by degrees this system of debt-slavery, through which the imptovemcut of the countrj' is gi-eatly retarded, and all general efforts to increase the industry and commerce are blighted in the off*set. When once the native rulers are taught that a way out of the per- nicious system can be found, and without prejudice to the creditor, there is no doubt that they will gladly forsake what they know to be contrary to the Maho- medan law ; and the ojjpressive regidations will give place to a milder and more civilised code.
Other existent forms — comprising the slavery about the palace ; that of the J^)attak people, who have beeu regularly bought and brought over ; and also that of the people and girls of the countr}^ — will not be so easy to eradicate, and must be left to the influence which time and the spread of civilisation will bring about.
To turn for a few minutes, before concluding this subject, to the oppressive way — it may be said the
DIFFICULTIES OF RESIDENTS. 199
barbarous way — in wliictli debt-slavery acts, lot the following 1)0 given by way of illustration. The reader must 1)(^ asked to suppose what would bo the opinion of Englishmen upon a ease at home, were it possible, in which a labourer who was in debt to the amount of five-and-thirty shillings, being unable to pay tlie sum, should l)e seized by his creditor, wath his wife, both thus becoming bond-servants or slaves, unable to free themselves, or their children to come, from their position. And yet such things have occurred amongst the Malays. One of the latest travellers through Perak, the Hon. W. Adamson, quotes a case in which a man and his wife became slaves for a debt of seven dollars. Endless are the hardships of these poor people, whose children become hereditary bond-servants ; and though, as a rule, their treatment is good, yet the iniquity of the system is monstrous, and leads amongst the w^omen to a degradation that lowers the whole tone of the country. The misfortune is that, until the upper classes of the Malays grow more enlightened, the position cannot be altered ; Sultan and chiefs setting the example of being the hardest taskmasters, and feeling it, under the present regime, to be to their interest to maintain the status of the slave ; while one of the greatest difficulties the British Eesidents have had to deal with has been the settling of disputes, when, urged by some faint echo in their wretched souls of the knowledge of England's persistence on every man's freedom, some unfortunate
200 "SATIONG" AND '' KRiSr
or another luus Hed to Her Majesty's representatives for ])n)tection from a cruel master.
Every visitor to the stiite joins in condemning the ju'actice ; but to each in turn the feeling Is brought home that nothing can be done by a sudden change. ( )iii position in the country is only that of protectors and advisers ; and stern p('i*8istence would only result in embittering the chif-fs, without im- proving tlic condition of the slave. It is an old ulcer on a beautiful land, and must take time for its cure. Wherever the beneficent light of civilisation has begun to shine, tlu-re the position of the bondsmen has rapidly improved, as in the states of Johore, Salangore, and Quedah. Perak is comparatively new ground ; but even here our Residents have made improvements, such as have vastly benefited the lower orders. In short, the good seed has been sowti, and in time a better state of things will brighten the fiice of the land.
rr.R.\K cuiErs and ATiLsuAS-n.
CHAPTER XIX.
The Malay character — Dealings with cliiefs — ^Ir. ^luntiiighe at
Palembang.
Perhaps in no people is a more singular combination of qualities found than in the Malay. In his general character in Perak, or other parts, where his inter- course with the European or Chinese has been infrequent, he can be described only by a knowledge of his internal disjDosition, and by the associations by which he has l)een surrounded since he first emerged from what was little better than barbarism. Naturally he is dull, heavy, and listless, fond of a life of slothful ease, and takes a good deal of coaxing to make an effort for the improvement of his state, or to do any- thing conducing to his profit or advantage — even, it may be said, to his amusement. But when once roused — and sometimes a very slight thing will be sufiicient — his energy is remarkable, and the dogged determination he will throw into the pursuit of his object is surprising, bringing out, as it does, so dif- ferent a phase of character that he seems to have a new existence.
202 "SAROKG" AND " KRiS."
With such ji (H.Hposition, upon which wan grafted the various iilcjis brought al»out by intercourse witli the Arabs, and the sul)scqucnt adoption of the reli- gion of Maliomet, the natural result was an increased indolence and listlessness of character, and incapacity for steady laljour. In fact, the Mahiys gradually imbibed much of the careless lawless nature of the Arabs of the desert ; and the adventurous spirit of the marauder whose hand is against every man, broke out in the various acts of piracy for which the Malay has so long been famed. These dangerous forays were quite inkeepmg with the clannish habits of the Malay, while, being now by religion made ftitalists, they grew careless of exposing their lives, since the future was secure.
They recognise however no such thing as caste, like the Hindoos ; though so tribal are they in their tendencies, that when the Viceroy of Salangore, himself a Quedah man, sent for some of his people to come and support him during a })etty war in Klaug, the ^lalays of the country looked down upon these newcomers as aliens and strangers, not belonging to this tribe, and nicknamed them Orang-Quedah, or men of Quedah as they do to this day. This strong feudal pride, arising from their princijde of tribal assoeiations under chiefs — a practice common to both Arab and Malay races — with its natural independence of spirit and love of liberty, makes it at all times a difficult task to render them tractable under coercion, though capable,
MALAY CRARACTEB. 203
uiulcr ;i patriarclial s\v;iy, <»(" I'cadily yi(jl(liji<jf an ini| (licit and clioerful oljcdiciicc. The obstinacy, liow- cvcr, and determination of the Malay, make him at times strongly to resemble the spoiled child, who will destroy all rather than give up a single point.
Their sense of power, which, under the influence of higher civilisation is a fine trait in their character, renders them, in a less civilised state, morbidly sensi- tive to slight or insult. In fact, one of their proverbs says : " A wound may heal, but will always leave a scar." Acting upon this, a Mjday rarely forgets an offence against him, but nurses it in his bosom until opportunity arrives for revenge ; and as his idea is that the insult must be washed out in blood, and as likewise he always carries the fiimiliar kris, fotal cases of retaliation are not uncommon.
In demeanour among themselves, and towards the European, the Malays are at all times courteous ; while with one who speaks their language and understands and respects their manners and customs, they are extremely social and. friendly ; but, from their o\^^l staid and retiring ways, they very quickly lose respect for anyone who is boisterous in his mirth, impulsive and rude in his habits, and. otherwise dis- plays a thoughtless disposition such as is so foreign to their own nature. For a Malay, as a rule, speaks slowly, giving to every word a distinct emphasis, Avhile he is utterly unable to take a joke, or to view it in the lio-ht in which it has been intended.
204 **8AB0Na'* AN]> '' KlilSr
Til tlujir own social life tliey are foud of their wives and children, and live, as a rule, in great unity ; petty thefts amon^^st themselves bein;^' almost unknown. They he.sitate a good deal about dis- playing their worldly possessions, but this is chiefly from a dread of exciting tin.* cupidity of the chiefs, Ijv whom, in >o many instances, they are hardly oppressed.
So courteous {ire the ^falay chiefs by nature, that in the j)lnces where they have not yet come under European influence, they \\\\\ apparently acquiesce in any liieiisure that may be proposed by saying, Baik tuan, or, "Very good, sir." This expression must not, however, be always taken to mean that the chief agrees with the views expressed by the speaker, though there is much in the way of the delivery of the wortls ; but more often they may be taken to mean that the views of the speaker shall receive due consideration. At the same time, there is the probability that this -may be a polite way of giving (m acquiescent reply for the moment, but with no ulterior idea of following out the wishes expressed.
Chiefs of this stamp, of whom there are many in Perak and in tlie native states, possess great capa- bilities for dissembling, an<l very rai-ely show in their features that which is passing in their minds ; so that the carrying out of any act of revenge that may have been determined on, is often reserved for a fitting oppor- tunity, the victim, in the meantime, not having the
DEALINGS WITH I'lllI'lFS. 201
slightest suspicion of tliat wliicli lias Ijecii planned against liis life.
In political interviews with .such chiefs it is always well to keep to the point under discussion, and to force them to follow your example. The subject should be approached with i)erfect good temper and gentleness of manner, but with a firm determination to carry the point, cotlte qui coilte; the opponent being made to understand this more from the speaker's manner than from the words expressed ; and as diffi- culties are advanced from their point of view, they should be assured that all these have been thought of and duly considered from sources of information which the speaker possesses, but which are naturally beyond the reach of the chiefs. All doubt or hesita- tion in such meetings may be looked upon as almost invariably fatal to success.
Again, in all intercourse with this class of Malay chief — and here let it be clearly understood that a marked distinction is drawn between this class and those with whom we have been brought in contact, more especially in Johore, Quedah, Tringanu, and other places — the examples of the past should not be lost sight of, some of which are unfortunately only too fresh in our memories, both as regards the peninsula and Sumatra.
A Malay has a great idea of his own dignity as a man, his love of, and belief in liberty, causing him to resent what he looks upon as insolence or overbearing
206 "SARONd" AND " Klilsr
treatment, and it is at sucli times as tliis tliat he dis- plays Ills m(>st dangerous traits. I.eft to liimself, like tlic poisonous snake of tlie jungle, la- will avoid the coming footstep and pass on ; l)ut aiTest him, and try- to force him to your will, ;ind he strikes. A good example of this peculiarity of chara(;ter was shown in a case which occurred some years back on the frontiei-s of Malacca, whore a European official was passing along a path followed by a policeman, fleeting a 3Ialay i)easant, the man passed on without salaaming the ofticial. The latter, indignant at what he looked upon as a want of respect, angrily spoke to the ryot, asking him how he dared to pass without saluting. The Malay calmly replied that he did not know the official, who then sharply laid lus hand upon the offender's shoulder. In an instant the man's kris flashed in the ail", and a deadly thrust was delivered, but fortu- nately the blade fell to the ground, and the blow, given like lightning, was delivered with the Jiandle alone. V>\\t for this incident in his resentment at what he looked upon as an insult, the Malay would have killed the European, who was however saved from fm'ther attack by the policeman seizing the ofleudcr.
Moor also, in liis "Notices," as far back as 1824, gives us an instance of failure in dealing with this people which occurred tD Mr. Muntinghe, who was a member of council, at Palembang, in Sumatra, during the British and Netherlands administration, of Java,
MB. MUNTINOnE. 2u7
Before proceed! uf^ to Pulcnibang, as commissioner of tlie Jnvaiiesc settlement, IVIr. Muntiiigli(! dwelt with much complaceuey and sclf-couvictiou on the idea that Jie should, in less than twelve months, establish the revenue system there as firmly as it had been done in Java ; and that then it could soon be extended to all Pulo Perclia, or Sumatra. He was cautioned ugainst this plan by Mr. Raffles, afterwards Sir Stam- ford Raffles, who said that it was unsuitable to the place and people ; but Mr. Muntinghe, perhaps from n want of practical or intimate knowledge of the people, and not persuaded that such a diversity of character existed between the Javanese and the Malays, held to his determination, and was rather strengthened in his private plan, and lured on by the chiefs, as usual, into a belief that all his wishes might be gratified and accomplished. The attack on the fort and the Residency, the precipitate fflglit of Mr. Muntinghe from Palembang, and the subversion of all his measures, were the work of a single day.
The Avise Grecian legislator of old said : "I gave to the Athenians, not the best laws, but those most fit for them;" and the notice ends with the very just remark: "It should not be necessary in the nine- teenth century to write laws with blood."
The most advanced of the chiefs in European ■civilisation is the Maharajah of Johore, a gentleman who has, w^hile retaining his native state, adopted our English manners and customs almost in their entirety.
208 "SAiiOxrr' AM) -icnis:'
and whci*(' they are mingled with those of Malaya, far from liavincr a barljaric effect, thev an; on the whole pleasing. His Istaiia, or jialace, at Joliore is a handsome building, admirably funiished ; the drawing- room, with piano for the use of English visitors, being perfect in its appointments. The Europeans of the Settlements arc fre<jucntly his guests ; and in every possible way his efforts seem to l)e directed towards making them feci that they are being entertained by an English in place of an Eastern prince.
A jrood deal of this is due no doubt to the effect of a \"i.sit to England some years back ; where during his stay an amusing illustration of our ignorance of the qualities and state of Eastern chiefs, was afforded in the way in which the late Sir Roderick ^lurchisou introduced the present ^laharajah at a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society.
It was while a speech was being made by Sir Roderick that a paper was passed .to him as a reminder of the coming of the distinguished visitor, when he remarked : " Ladies and gentlemen, I had almost omitted to mention to you that we are honoured here this evening by the presence of an eminently intelligent Eastern prince — the Jinny- ffonff of Tohore."
A whisper immediately passed on to him by way of correction, and referring once more to the paper he exclaimed : " I beg your pardon, ladies and gentle- men— the Tumonoroncj of Johore." Then to the giver
TJU'j jjukI'J ()!•' jJiJiNiiunairs visit. 209
of the pap(!r licttinhly : "Your Ts and .I'm ;iic .ill alike."
The Maharajah, always celebrated for his liospi- tality, gave the Duke of Edinljurgh a very notable rccc^ptioii on the visit of His lloyal Highness to the Straits Settlements. Here the mingling of Eastern pomp and European customs was very remarkable ; for while carriages of British construction, and servants in liveries of the royal Malay C(jlours, green and rich yellow, were in attendance, a grand effect was pro- duced by the Maharajah's state barges, which were painted and manned for the occasion in a very striking manner. Each barge was rowed by sixty or seventy men, all wearing silk jackets of a brilliant hue. One barge would be painted bright blue, the jackets of its rowers being to match ; another was of a bright green ; another yellow, and so on. Open house was kept and sports were arranged ; the whole forming an event in the history of the peninsula which is recalled with pleasure by the natives to this day.
Upon another occasion, the Maharajah entertained a departing Governor and his lady at a banquet at the Istana, or palace, when the menus were printed on pieces of rich yellow satin bordered with green silk lace. As an example of the style in which an Eastern prince who adopts our customs can give a dinner, it may not be out of place to print here 171 extenso the contents of the bill of fare, in spite of the peculiarity of the Malay language. It is unnecessary to give a
p
210 ''SABONQ" AND *'KBl8.**
translation in full, and tlic reader will sumiisc that Tim signifies soup, Ikfdi fish, and so on. Scimixtls have already been described ; while amongst the Manissan, or sweets, plum-pudding and custard arc sufficiently English to need no interpreter. Suffice it that the list contains all the delicacies to be pro- cured in the Straits, not omitting Dodol Baku (ices), Ananas, Susu, and Limau.
SANTAPAX.
TIM.
Panggang pringi dungan badam. Sa}-!!! kerchachan.
IKAX.
Kendang TengirL ^Merah kwah anchovy, Dainldaug kwah tritcp.
inAKGKAX.
Opo etck dungan kanah. Eendang chinchang Plentong. Burong pati chindawan biisotc. Panchur sarak tritep. Rusuk daging biri biri. Siunbrf't panggang pringi.
PAIIHAn.
Tanggang kalkun isi trufff. Ayam blanda nibus di Jawa. Daging biri-biri di panggang. Kambing nibus pati santan. Lumbo golie. Leda sapi dalam bclda.
A MALAY MENU. 211
HAYUU.
Kintang. Lob;i mora. Kachang hijau. Sulo di France. IJtiiiga kobis. Jagong muda.
Goulai ill Johorc. Gonlai Santan.
Singajiorc Curry. Madras CiuTy.
Saijur Kechambak.
SAMBAL.
Serai. Tumis Llachang.
Asain. Tumis kuchai.
Tnibo. Tumis hudang.
Telor di rendang. Tumis Ijlimbing.
Sqronding.
MANISSAN.
Limping dungan limau China.
Plum-pudding.
Eualiulu dungan custard.
Serikaya.
Penscannan buah-buah.
Belda Susu. Belda Sirop.
Jubun rendang. Keju.
Plampong di Whampoa.
Halwa buah. Kring. Hahva Cliayir.
DODOL BAKU.
Ananas, Susu. Limau.
Courteous, religious, social and hospitable, gentle in liis ways when calm, and his passions not roused, the Malay, when angry or under excitement, is reck-
p 2
'212 ''SAIiONG" AXD '' KUlS."
less and bloodthirsty in the extreme. He may, in fact, 1)0 described as volcanic : pr«senting to the eye all that is goodly and fair, while Ijcueath the surface a fire is always smoiddering, ready to burst forth without warning, and spread ruin and destruction around. There can Im- n<j d(»ul»t tliat by nature the Malay is of an extremely nervous temperament ; and in several ways this is made known to the Europeans with whom he comes in contact. For instance, under certain circumstances that pcculiai- nervous affection already alluded to, is seen, where a man's will appears completely under the influence of those he meets, and he seems bound to imitate every gesticulation or movement that is made ; but the affection or mania that makes these people a terror and a danger to their fellows, is that known as Amok.
" Running a-muck," as it is popularly called, is so common that the term has been adopted among our own quaint siiyings to apply to any person who is reckless or wild in his doings ; but prubabl}' the extent to which this practice obtains is n<^t known to the reader. Even while this work has been j)assing through the press. Rajah Mansur, one of the sons of Yusuf, the present iniler of Perak, during a strange fit of excitement, drew liis kris and rushed off, strik- injj riirht and left, killiucj six and severelv woundinf; two persons, and finally making his escape into the jungle. In the illustration which is given of the Sultan and his two sons, the one upon his left is the
AMOK. 213
young' in;iii in (Question. He wiis only ahoiit twenty years old.
Even in European countries, examine amongst people with overstrung or disorganised nerves seems to be contagious, and the sufferers apparently feel compelled to perform acts that would, while in sound health, he repugnant to every disposition of their nature ; and among the Malays this custom of Amok has unfortunately grown to be national, and is looked for just as the Japanese performs the hari-kari as a termination to his career. In this latter case, however, the unfortunate is content with destroying his own life, while the Malay may be the cause of death or severe injury to twenty or thirty people before he is literally hunted down and destroyed, like a mad dofy.
Physiologists attribute this uncontrollable fury to disease — in fact, to a kind of monomania induced by disorder of the digestive organs ; but there are occa- sions when the j^ractice is made subservient to the will, and a Malay wdll "run amok" to gratify revenge, or, as if for a forlorn hope, adopt it in the little w^ars of the people, rushing amongst the enemy and killing right and left. In fact, it will be seen that on the occasion of the murder of Mr. Birch, the cry of " Amok, amok ! " was raised, and a savage rush was made by all present, w^ho seemed to be animated with but one desire — to kill. The Malay, speaking of Amok, says : " J\ly eyes got dark and I ran on." In
214 ''SARONG*' AND "KlilS."
other words, he says he was ])lin(l witli fiiiy : or lie will attribute the seizure to verti^fo.
In the Settlements the first warn in «^ of such an event is given by the cry of " Amok, amok ! " when there is a rush, and i)eo})le fly ri«5dit and left to shelter; for the runner makes no distinction between friend and foe ; his eyes ai'o indeed dark, and he is blind to everything but the intense desire to kill all he can before he renders u\> his own wretched life. Shrieks, cries of warning, the rush of feet, people trampling over each other in their hurry to escape, and the eager excited- eyes of the Malays, as each man's hand goes to the twisted band of his sarong to draw forth the deadly kris. For, as the runner's desire is now to kill all he can, that of the peaceable is to slay him before he can do much mischief.
The cry goes on far in advance of the madman, and the Sikh police clutch their weapons, the Euro- peans seize gun or revolver, and eveiy eye is strained, every nerve attent for the coming peril.
"Amok, amok ! " followed by a wild shriek or two and a groan, as the madman rushes on, striking here and there, taking people at a disadvantage, and marking his course with Ijleeding victims, while his pursuers gather in immhers, the Malays among them growing as madly excited- as the runn«'r they pursue.
The object nowadays is to take the man alive, to tiy him by our laws, and punish him for murder; and to further these ends, the police in the Settlements
AN AMOK. 216
aro provided witli a liugc, short-} )roiigcd pitchfork, to i'iiU'h the madman by the tliroat, and pin liim to a wall when he is driven to bay.
But this is not yet, and he runs on in liis fury, driving his kris into one fleeing unfortunate's back, leaping over his body, avoiding a thrust made by an opponent, and returning it with deadly effect. Or it may be that he is gashed with cuts, and bleeding from the stabs he has received himself. Shots are fired at him, some taking effect ; more, from the hurry, missing the flying maniac, who still runs on, marking his course with his own blood and that of fresh victims, his strength in his exaltation being prodigious, and wonderfully enduring, so that he is a match for two or three of his fellows ; and so he goes on and on, till he falls from some shot, or sinks from exhaustion, to be despatched l>y the ready krisses carried hj every Malay.
But there are times when, cut off and hemmed in, the Amok runner stands at bay in some house, or against a wall, glaring with bloodshot eyes, dripping with blood, and holding out his stained kris, he defies anyone to approach. Now it is that the police of the Settlements bring into use the great fork men- tioned, deftly thrusting at him till he is caught by the throat, pinned to the wall, and held there by the strength of two powerful arms, when his kris is wrested from his gory hand, he is quickly pinioned, and if he does not die of his wounds he is tried and
'Jl«; "SARONO" AND "KRiS."
executed by the Englisli or native laws. For in such a case the man has ])Ccome far more (huifjcrous than the fierecst tig»r tluit could haunt the jungle, and by all verdicts his fate is sealed.
Some years ago at an '*amok" in Singapore, the Malay was pursued to, and took refuge in, the canal, where, as he would not surrender, he was fired upon while cunninfrly diving to avoid the shots, and it was some time bcf<jre he was wounded and secured.
If, however, the madman can force his way through the people who hem him in, he may possibly continue his course and escape to the jungle, as in the ca«e of Sultan Yusuf 's son ; but, generally speaking, the fate of the Amok runner is a violent death, few beinfj re^scrved for trial. Various have been the opinions given upon this subject. There have not been wanting writers who have attributed the custom to the use of opium and its eflfects upon the system ; but there can be no doubt that the Amok had its origin in the deed of some desperate Malay ; that tradition handed it down to his higldy-sensitive suc- cessors, and the example was followed and continues to be followed as the right thing to do, by those who are excited to frenzy by apprehension, or some injur}* that they regard as deadly, and to be washed out in blood. In fact, N«'wbold says that he has seen letters in which, alluding to the desii*e to revenge an insult, Malays make use of the follo\nng expression : " I ardently long for his blood to clean my face blackened
AN AMOK. 217
M'itli cliarconl ;" or, "to wash out tlio jiollution of the hog's fkvsh with whicli he has smeared me."
Ill those last words we liave thoroughly the feeling of the Mussulman expressed, and his deadly hatred to the pollution of a touch from the flesh of the pig — a pollution that was often made the excuse for the terrible rising in India, where it was spread abroad that the cartridges the natives had to use were greased with the fat of the hog.
CHAPTER XX.
Propitiatoi-y offerings — Superstitions — Ideas of Creation — Con- version to Islamism — Malay conversion — Pilgrimages — The Mosque.
In ;i people of so highly urrvous a temperament, and of so morbid a disposition, it is not surprising that superstition should be strongly mingled with their religious tenets. For instance, they have a thorough belief in the efficacy of chai-ms and amulets ; and this is not only seen amongst the lower orders, but exists even in the chiefs. Il;»jah Abbas, who suffered from that loathsome disease elephantiasis, had recourse to charms for its cure. Amulets in the shape of written words are often woni, or even placed about a house. But a very favourite charm or preventive of disease is the tiger-claw, which the ^liUay is very fond of wearing — very sensibly too if he looked upon it as for the prevention of injury from these fierce beasts, and the practice of wearing the claws became uni- versal They examine horoscopes, and study the stars, so as to obtain a propitious day for some adventure or plan ; and from their connection with the Indians
PROPITIATORY OFFERINGS. 219
tlioy lijivo doubtk'ss acquired tlieir Lclief in fix; (.'xistuiK'c of many orders of ct.'k'stial bein;^.s.
Some of tlieir beliefs approach th<i superstitions of tlio lowest savages in the scale ; and it is a constant matter to find them making offerings to some spirit or another hy way of propitiation. When a Euro- pean wishes to penetrate some unexplored portion of mountain or jungle, he is met wdth opposition, for the simple-minded native sees the horrible in the unknown ; and the "would-bc explorer is begged not to enter the domams held by evil spirits, who may withhold rain, send storms or diseases, or in some way show their displeasure at the sanctity of their homes l)eing invaded. So dangerous are these spiiits of the woods considered, that in the jungle camj^ongs, high up amongst the trees, pieces of wood are carefully prepared, and hung up in a way that causes them to give forth plaintive musical sounds, similar to those of an -^olian harp, or the stretched wires of the electric telegraph when the wdnd blows thi'ough them — the traveller often being startled by the mournful notes. These are supposed to keep off the goblins, and make them leave the campong dwellers in peace.
Mines have always been supposed in Europe to hold their special spirit or demon from the earliest times, but it seems singular that the superstition should exist in such an out-of-the-way part of the world as Perak. And yet it is so with the tin-miners, who make offerings to propitiate the good spirit who
CHAP^ :r XX.
Propitiatory offerings — Sujjers ons — Ideas of Cn version to Islamism — ]\Ial; conversion — Pilg: Mosque.
In a people of so higlily of so morbid a dispositio superstition should Ix' ."^ religious tenets. For ins belief in tlie efficacy of ch is not only seen amongst even in the chiefs. Raj; that loathsome disease e] charms for its cure. Am words are often worn, or But a very favourite ohm is the tiger-claw, which wearing — ^very sensibly t for the prevention of inj ^nd the practice of weai versal. They examine ]ioi so as to obtain a propiti or plan ; and from their
rvous a temperame
it is not surprisin, jngly mingled with ice, they have a thor ms and amulets ; and le lower orders, but ex Abbas, who suffered fr^ 'hantiasis, had recourse ets in the shape of writtej "en placed about a house.
or preventive of disease e Malay is very fond of
if he looked upon it^ y from these fier^ o- the claws^
o
copes, anc s day anect
w
tliey have douttl existence of many . . ^
Some of their heli the lowest savages vl matter to find them m or another by way of pean wishes to penetrdt- mountain or jungle, h* the simple-minded nati unknown ; and the won: to enter the domains L withhold rain, send storms > show their displeasure at tl being invaded. So daiv woods considered, that m up amongst the trees, pi( prepared, and hung up in give forth plaintive musical an ^Eolian harp, or the telegraph when the w traveller often being s These are supposed t'^^ them leave the cam].
Mines have hold their times, but should exi world as ^ who ma
^ii^<
220 '* SARONG" AND " KRiS."
presides. Mr. Daly gives an interesting account of tliis i)ropiti.'ition of spirits in his late journey down the Prrak river, where, Ijefore the passage of the dangerous rapid, Jeram Tangang, at the entrance to which is a large boulder, called by the ]\Ialays " Berala Bujok," which literally means "the idol to be propi- tiated," ever}'one is expected to make an offering and ask permission to pjiss. Upon the occasion in ques- tion the )»ilot stood up and made a si»eeeh to the rock, asking for leave to go down the rapid in safety, as there was a white man on board, and if anything happened to him it would Ite the cause of much trouble to the people. This being ended, bananas and betel-nuts, combined with a biscuit, supposed to be the white man's offering, were thrown upon the rock, and then the passage was commenced.
The idol upon this occasion must have been dis- satisfied with the value or extent of the offerings ; for when the bamboo raft upon which the traveller was journeying came to the worst part it telescoped, the great bamlioos snapped like matches from the force of the water, and went floating down the stream. This rapid is a source of great terror to the natives, who tell a numljcr of stories concerning the mishaps that have occurred there ; and when joked about them in this instance, replied in all seriousness that Berala Bujok was angry at the offer of the biscuit, and because a white man had descended the river.
The objects held in reverence are innumerable :
SUPERSTITIONS. 221
tli(^ tiger, tli(3 cow, the nioiikoy, iiiid even the wuriiigliuii-trt'o, ;irc all revered or feared, as the <.'ase may be. I'lien^ ;ire demons who utter cries in the woods and liaiint burial-grounds ; spirits who ean be domesticated, and if fed with their owner's blood can l)e utilised for purposes of revenge ; demon hunts- men, who have their own dogs ; witches, who leave their human bodies by night to feast on the above sanguinary diet ; and spirits of the storms and winds ; and one Eajah is stated to have krissed a woman with his own hand, and without a word of inquiry, for being suspected of creating, and having in her posses- sion, a " Puloug," a name that the Malays give to a horrible phantasy of theirs, a sort of " bottle-imp," which they believe can be let loose and made to take demoniacal possession of the enemies of its creator. The doctrine of metempsychosis has obtained some little hold upon the Malays, who consequently hesitate to slay the tiger, lest his body should be the tenement of some human being. In fact, they believe that, after the fashion of the wehr-wolf of German romance, certain people have the power of occupying the body of the tiger by night, and transforming themselves at pleasure. So great is considered the power and intel- ligence of this beast, that the Malay will reluctantly mention its name in the jungle, lest evil should befall him ; and if asked if a tiger is nigh, will pro- bably give his answer in the faintest whisper, and with trembling voice.
222 "8AB0NG" AND *'KRlS."
Their little observances for the procuring of good luck arc many, and extend even to the most trivial acts : for instance, a betel-chewcr will almost inva- riably spit to the left ; and this superstitious feeling, combined with idleness, has something to do with the reluctance of a ISIalay to repair an injured house — in fact, even when he builds a new one the old is left standinjr.
As a body, the ^lalays follow very strictly the religion they profess — Islamism ; and, whether they have performed the pilgrimage to !Mecca or not, many keep regularly the Ramadhan : but, as may be seen from the foregoing, they mix their religion up with the traditionary customs and superstitions ; this natu- rally being chiefly amongst the poorer classes. One very favourite theory is that certain persons can render themselves invulnerable through the agency of spii-its. Several such instances have been mentioned in Penik, notably in the ease of a man called Rajah Abbfis, previously alluded to as trying to charm away ele- phantiasis. It is related of one pretender to this invulnerability, that an officer put him to the proof, and exposed the silly belief to the suiTounding crowd by pricking the Achilles-like skin of the man's arm with the point of his sword. The invulnerable man s blood flowed, and it was nearly followed by that of the officer ; for the pretender vowed revenge, and had to be kept at a distance to prevent him from making a savaire attack.
IDEAS OF OBEATION. 223
The ordiuaiy diseases and epidemies arc supp(j3ed to be driven away, cither by conciliating tlie spirits with offerings, or else by the practice of affixing cages and palm-leaves to trees in the neighbourhood of the dwellings or campongs. The ignorant seem always to believe strongly in those yet more ignorant than themselves ; hence we have the Malays attaching great faith to the supernatural powers of the abori- gines, and trusting frequently to their knowledge of herbs and simples in cases of disease. Both in Perak, and beyond our frontier in Malacca, the writer has known the people to have a great veneration for the Sakais, or Jacoons, and Mr. Swettenham, who has tra- velled much among them, and is well acquainted ^\ith the habits of the Malays, says that in Ilim, a part of the country between Perak and Salangore, the common people frequently consult them and ask their advice on important matters.
Those curious freaks of natm-e, Albinos, are found amongst the Malays ; and where they exist they are looked upon by the people with a kind of superstitious awe. One of these men was seen by an English party at the village of Kotah Lamah ; and Newbold speaks of one as having been in 1838 the chief of Jellabu, near Malacca. He was a descendant of a prince from Menang Kabau, and was looked upon with the gi'etaest reverence by the superstitious Malays, on account of his having white or very light blue eyes and jet black hair. Dr. Pickering, too, speaks of one having been
224 ''SARONG" AND ''KUlSr
seen amongst the Malays in one of the islands of the Polynesian group : but their occurrence is particularly rare.
Beliefs as to their origin are remarkably curious, and the geographical notions of the common people are very strange. One is that the world is suirounded by mountiiins, which they call by the name of " Kaf." Tli(> following is the idea of the Creation taken from their own literature :
Fr»nn tlu' Supreme ]>cing first emanate<l light towarJs chaos; this liglit (liffusiiig itself became the vast ocean. From the Ixjsom of the waters tliick vapour and foam ascended. The earth and sea •wore then fanned each of seven tiers. The earth rested on the surface of the water from east to west. CJod, in order to render steadfast the foundations of the Avorld, which vibrated tremulously with the motion of the watery expanse, girt it round with an adamantine chain, viz. the stupendous mountains of Caucasus, tho wondrous region of genii and aerial spirits. Ueyond these limits is spread out a vast jUain, the sand and earth of Avliich are of gold and musk, the stones rubies and emeralds, the vegetation of odori- ferous flowers. . . , From the range of Caucasus all the mountains of th»' eartli have their origin as jjillars, to support and strengthen the terrestrial framework.
With regard to the particular form of Islam em- braced by the Malays, it will naturally be inferred, when it is remembered that their intercoui-se with the Arabs dates from a very early period, and was very extensive, while that with the Persians was narrowed in its limits to the meetings with them in trade at Engrah on the Pei-sian Gulf, that they would embrace that followed by the Arabs in the purest form ; and
MALAY OONVEBSION. 225
accordingly we find tliom to be (^liietly belonging to the acct of Sliafeites, with liere and there, in Pcrak and Quedah, Hanefites and Plunbalites, but also the ortliodox sect, or Sonnites. The so-called sect of Ali is rarely met witli amongst the Malays ; but they may exist, though not to the writer's knowledge.
According to Yule's "Marco Polo," a Malay chro- nicle of Acheen dates the accession of the first Mahomedan king of that state — the nearest point of Sumatra to India and Arabia — in the year answering to A.D. 1205 ; and this is the earliest conversion among the Malays on record. It is extremely doubtful, how- ever, whether there were kings of Acheen in 1205, or for centuries after : and it is therefore open to question whether this date applies to any real event or not.
The dates of the conversion of the Malays to their present religion are variously given, however; but Crawfurd, who is perhaps the best authority, follows pretty closely the above idea, and puts the conversion of the Acheenese at 1206 of our era, the Malacca Malays at 1276, and the Javanese at 1478 ; while the general conversion of the people of Celebes did not take place till the arrival of the Portuguese in their midst, or about 1510. This progress of conversion took several centuries to accomplish, and was not eifected by the Ai-abs in the same rapid way as that of the natives of Western and Central Asia ; for the Malays were too numerous and powerful
226 "SARONG" AND ''KRlS."
in those days to be subdued and overcome by these people.
The ultimate aim of every good AFoslem is to make the pilgrimage to Mecca ; and accordingly every year a veiy numerous concourse of Malays proceed from the various states of the peninsula on this religious errand. When the pilgrim returns to his own country he is [nivileged to wear the Arab costume, and to be styled by his fellows Tvxtn haji. Unfortunately, however, the influence he now possesses is not always employed to benefit his fellow-country- men, but often for intriguing to his o^vn advantage, so as to recoup himself and family for the outlay to which he has been put in his long and weary journey to the west. A very recent wTiter on these j\Ialay hajis speaks of them as making the voyage "in order on their return to be ordained as priests, when they may wear turbans, and will commence a life of idleness — doing nothing, except, perhaps, inciting. the populace to revolt or to make amok, and living like leeches on the toil of their frllow-men."
In Perak these people have been found to be at the root of ever}^ system of oppression ; and, if not the actual instigator of the a.ssassination of the late Resident, they at least stimulated the worst characters in the place to open rebellion ; and finding themselves supported by the recognised chiefs of their religion, the rebels were the less punctilious in carrying out their lawless designs.
PILQBIMAQES. 227
It must be owned, however, that the pilgrimage is an arduous task ; and some yeai*s ago the ships in wliich the voyage was made were in so terrible a con- dition, from overcrowding, that the interference of our Government became a necessity. Now, however, the pilgrim is able to make the voyage across to Jeddah in comparative comfort ; and it is only when he arrives in port that the real hardships of the journey commence. Some of the pilgrims succumb to these hardships, but they meet death with the calm stoicism of the fatalist ; and when the news of a death reaches friends and relatives at home, the end is looked upon as a glorious one, and using their proverbial expres- sion wliich accepts it as inevitable, they are at once contented and resigned.
Amongst their religious practices the Malays are in the habit of indulging in relic-worship, which takes the form of a visit to the tomb of some revered person on particular days of the year. They wear a kind of rosary of beads for telling, and are very particular about the month of fasting, which, like the Arab Ramadhan, is in the ninth Mahomedan month of the year. So punctilious are they as Mahomedans, that it was only with difficulty that the writer could obtain their consent to sit for their photographs, though after a time less objection was made. One Eajah, however, and one of the more civilised, absolutely refused. This was the Rajah of Quedah.
In their religious observances they are very par-
Q 2
>|i!^
228
^'SABONG" AKD ^^KBlS."
ticalar, and at the proper times the ei^t of the Malay at prayer is very comiiiaii ; hiii carpet, or that which arjiiwen the jmrpose, is Kprea/1, arid the pros- tratioD fojlowfi with the seven memljera of the Ixxiy which touch the ground — namely, the forehead, the palms of the two hands, the knees, and the feet. When speaking of the Portuguese, or the people of mixed Euroji'jan an/1 Malay blood, it is worthy of note that th*^' call them Nojfarird, the origin l>eing mo«t probably the old term Nazarme.
It will not be out of place here, in the face of late dutcwfrnfma on the belief in, and implied rapport given by the Moslems of the East to, the Sultan of Turke)% to say tliat, though the Malays l>;lieve in IstamUjul, or Kotim, as the centre of their fsiith, and look uf>on the Sultan as the chief t^^mporal sovereign, with 0/nstantinoi>le as th*; princij^al seat of 3Iahomedan government, they are very little influ/^nced by what may liapj^en in th/^ fortunes of that country. Mecca IS to tljem the Holy City, and the Koran, as expoun^lwl }>y Arab * , Rijj>plie.H th/.T/i with their rule and
practice o, ,.,...; and, c^>me what may in the future, they are never likely t/^ l>e moved to any religious war against the Cljristiaiis on ufjumnt of the neglect hy iu fjf the welfare r/f Turkey, in leaving her to ptuime h*^ own line of ]Kj\i(:y in opjx^ition to the [iT(t\yf?Si\()UA of the gr<;at Vowcth of Eurojx;.
When a vilhffh or (Mm\)fm^ groWH tr> any Ki;5e — th;it j.H tf> say increases t/j over forty hfj\mfS6 — it is
228 ''8AB0NG" AND "KBlS.**
ticular, and at the proper times the bight of the ]\Ialay at prayer is very common ; liia caq>et, or that which answers the purpose, is spread, and the pros- tration follows with the seven members of the body which touch the ground — namely, the foreheiid, the palms of the two hands, the knees, and the feet. When speaking of the Portuguese, or the people of mixed Euro])ean and Malay blood, it is worthy of note that they call them Nasarini, the origin being most probably the old term Nazarene.
It will not be out of place here, in the face of late discussions on the belief in, and implied support given by the Moslems of the East to, the Sultan of Turkey, to say that, though the Malays believe in Istamboul, or Roum, as the centre of their faith, and look upon the Sultan as the chief temporal sovereign, with Constantinople as the principal seat of Mahomedan government, they are very little influenced by what may happen in the fortunes of that countiy. Meccii is to them the Holy City, and the Koran, us expounded by Aiab teachers, supplies them with their rule and practice of iiiitli ; and, come what may in the futuie, they are never likely to be moved to any religious war against the Christians on account of the neglect by us of the welfare of Turkey, in leaving her to jiursue hor own line of policy in opposition to the propositions of the great Powers of Europe.
When a village or campong grows to any size — that is to say increases to over forty houses — it is
THE MOSQUE. 229
considered to be of suflicicnt iniportuiicc to need officers, and the religious welfare of the place is better provided for. It will be seen from these points how little deserving of the title of savages the Malays arc, and how misinformed are they who have been in the habit of looking upon them as merely a bloodthirsty set of pirates, infesting a marshy coast. When, as above stated, the village has so increased, the usual Malay officers are selected. These include the PungJmlu, or head-man ; the Mata-mata, a kind of policeman ; and a Billal and Khateeb, or preacher. A mosque is also formally built and instituted, and the welfare of the people is then considered to be properly cared for.
In the engraving giving the general aspect of a Malay village on a river -bank, the mosque will be seen occupying a central position. In this case the building was carefully finished, the finial of the roof being one solid mass of coral-rock elaborately cut. As funds flow in, improvements are made ; one of the most important being a large tank, built of masonry, kept filled with water, to enable the faithful to per- form the proper legal and religious ablution before entering the house of prayer. On the outer verandah of the mosque a large instrument somewhat resem- bling a drum is placed ; and this is struck by the muezzin, and gives out sonorous tones at the appointed time of prayer, both before and after he gives the customary call to the faithful to attend. This drum
230 "tiARONG" ANL "^KBlS."
is a liollowcd cone of wood, made sonorous by having stretched over it a licad formed of buflalo-hidc. Where a muiaret has been erected, as in Malacca, a gonf,' is used in place of the drum, but this latter is in common use.
CHAPTER XXI.
Beligious ceremonies — Sacrifices — Teeth filing — Marriage — "Wedding feasts — Funerals — Salutation — Polygamy — The kris.
The children of the Malays are received into the world quite in religious form, prayer being said, and the Azcm, or Allah Akbar, pronounced by the father with his lips to the tender infant's ear. On the seventh day the head is shaved ; and later on the old religious ceremony, common to all Mahomedans and the Jews from the time of Abraham, is performed. The children have a name bestowed upon them at their birth, but this is allowed to lapse when later on their regular name is given. Allusion to their edu- ■eational instruction has already been made.
It is at their religious ceremonies, such as births and weddings, that buffaloes are sacrificed; and at the particular feasts, as with the Jews, the animal must be, according to Newbold, " without blemish or disease ; its fore and hind leg bones must not be broken after death, nor the spine ; neither are the horns to be used for common purposes." The animal to be sacrificed is bound as to its legs, thrown down,
232 "SAROXa" AND *'KTilS."
its head fastoned, water Is poured upon it, and the priest after prayer divi<les the windpipe; and arteries with a sacrificial knife. The animal is next skinned, and divided into two portions : one of which goes to the people, and is cooked and eaten on the spot ; the other part is divided between the punghulu and priests.
iMarriagc amongst the wild tri])es is a very simple affair — in fact, it is a case of exchange and barter; for the enamoured youth has to make his arrange- ments with his intended's father, and give him what is considered an equivalent for the lady's worth ; that is to say a small quantity , of tobacco, some cotton stuff, such as a sarong, and a knife. That is all ; and the lady becomes the donor's wife. But the affair is far more ceremonious amongst the civilised Malays,, who surround the event with a considerable amount of formula.
The engagement is generally settled by the lady friends of the parties. Then the friends of the bride- groom have to wait upon the bride's father and make presents. The bride's marriage-portion is talked over; the marriage expenses are paid ; and the portion, a sum in accordance witli the position of the parties, is arranged. Just previous to this the bride-elect has to go through the ceremony of ha^'ing her teeth filed : a most unpleasant operation, which is performed by a woman while the patient reclines. It is no simple ceremony, for the teeth arc cut down perhaps a
MAEBIAGE. 233
fourdi, and llw. cllecl is to i'<'n(l(;r the gums swollen and ]>;iiiiful for days. I hit there is this satisfaction for the maiden : slic, is now allowed to commence chewing the sirih leaf, and her teeth soon become blackened, and to a European eye repulsive, though it is considered a beauty with her own people. This blackening of the teeth is aided by the use of a liquid which is obtained from the shell of the cocoa-nut, prepared by fire in a peculiar way.
The hair also comes in for a certain amount of preparation, being cut off short on the forehead, some- what after the fashion that has of late been popular in England. Henna is applied to dye the palms, and also to the nails of the hands and feet ; and then matters are supposed to be sufficiently progressed for the approaching marriage ceremony. But it must be premised that probably the gentleman has never yet seen the lady ; and very likely he will have to take her veiled, in the Eastern fashion, without a sight first of her face. This is often the case ; and at the marriage feast, if the lady, on being unveiled, prove to be very plain, the bridegroom is bantered and laughed at unmercifully.
There are, however, certain concessions made to the lover when engae^ed. As with the native of Hindostan, who is allowed to taste rice that has been placed to the lips of his intended, so with the Malay. He is permitted to chew a piece of betel that has been tasted by his inamorata ; and the young gallant feasts
23 1 **8A110NG" AND " KlilS.
on tlie delight of knowing tliat the lips of liis lady have touched the l)etcl he ma.sticatcs. If, after the ceremony has been j)crformcd in accordance with the rites of the JSlahomedan religion, the wife is consi- dered to be of sufficient age — that is to say, fourteen or fifteen — the husband is allowed to take her liome. But as very frequently these betrothals and weddings take place when the contracting parties are very young, a voung wife will .sometimes be for years at her father's house before she goes to one of her own. In fact, it is no uncommon thing, says one observer of the Malays, to see little girls running about one year in the extremely light clothing of childhood, and to see them married women and mothers the next. For life is rapid in these hot climes, and growth in pro- portion ; while, on the other hand, the woman is an aged wrinkled crone by the time she is forty ; though, as has been stated, cases of extreme old age are not unknown.
According to the means of those wedded, the cere- mony is accompanied by more or less showy proceedings. Both parties are liberally decorated with jewellery, flowers, and gay attire ; the wedding paraphernalia being to a great extent a kind of family heirloom, like the plate of an English house, and ha\'ing to do duty again and again. The bride is, when dressed, set up at the end of the house in state, and holds a kind of (bawing-room, being visited by all her friends and relatives, in company with vast numbers of guests
WEDDING FEASTS. 286
attracted by the occasion. vVftcr the wedding the young people are phiced together in a scat of honour above the rest of the guests, when, amidst the feast- ing, the use of the sirih-box and betel-chewing are made prominent. Flowers are largely used ; music is introduced ; and the whole ceremony is made as much a feast and time of rejoicing as amongst the civilised nations of the West.
At these wedding feasts goats or buffaloes are killed for the feasting of as many as like to come and partake ; for a large wedding is considered very honourable to the father of the bride. To the expenses of the wedding feast, however, large con- tributions are made by relatives, and even neighbours, who send rice and fruit. One end of the house is set apart on these occasions for the young women, who are screened from the other guests by curtains ; and this part of the building is made gay with cotton cloth, chintz, and choice mats. As for the young men, they engage in various sports and pastimes, among which ball and cock-fighting take their places ; while their elders sit and sagely discuss the doings of the neighbourhood, and probably canvass the various exactions of their chiefs.
One great peculiarity of the people is that they like these special events amongst themselves to be largely attended, especially if it be a matter of con- tract ; for they argue that "vsTitten deeds may be forged, destroyed, or altered, "but the memory of
236 '*8AB0NG" AND "A'A'/.S."
wliat is transacted in tli'- presence of a thousand witnesses must remain siicred."
In tlie marriage agreement of the !Malay the stipulation is made that all effects and savings arc to be equally the property of both, and in case of divorce all is to be equally divided ; but if the man is the party who insists upon the divorce, he gives half the effects to the woman, and forfeits the sum paid as addat — the marriage-portion or purchase. If, on the other hand, it is the woman who claims to be divorced, she makes forfeit, and can only take her personal effects, and the husl^and may require from the relatives the sum paid as addat, but this is rarely demanded.
The ceremonies at death are of a far more simple character. The deceased is washed and shrouded in cotton cloth, and partly clothed in the garments of life, and then placed upon a bier formed of a couple of planks, which, with the regular ceremonies of the Mahomedan fjiith, is borne to the place of sepulture. The graves arc dug in accordance with a cei-tain custom which has obtained amongst them ; and, so far from being dependent on circumstances, are inva- riably of the same depth — that is to say, the digger continues his work until his ear is on a level with the surface. But it is not a simple fosse, as with us ; for a kind of niche or cavity is dug in the side, of the necessary length, and al^out two feet high. This side chamber, so to speak, is intended for the reception of the corpse, which, on being lowered down, is there
POLYGAMY. 237
placed — of coiu-su, colfiulcss — and is theu .shut in by means of tlie two boards tliat formed the bier. The body is thus enclosed in a rude earthen toml), and tlie earth is thrown in — gently, at first, till on a level with the top of the boards, and afterwards filled up in the ordinary manner. Offerings to the dead, in the shape of spices and flowers, are made afterwards at intervals, and stones or wooden posts are put up at the head and foot of the graves ; while, in accordance with old usage, the Malays plant at times the chum- paJca and sidasih.
To return for a moment to their marriage customs : the Malays are on the whole a moral people ; and thoucfh bv the Mahomedan relio;ion a man is allowed to marry four wives if he can support them, it is rare for a Malay to adopt this custom, which, with con- cubinage, is the practice of the more riotous chiefs. The ordinary native is a simple courteous being, who joins with, an intense love of liberty a great afiection for his simple home and its belongings ; and is ever ready to greet his fellow in the peculiar manner adopted in the country, where the newcomer or visitor approaches his host, or the man he wishes to salute, with hands joined as if in supplication, while the other touches them lightly with his own on either side, and afterwards raises liis hands to his lips or forehead. The custom of nose-rubbinsf has been attributed to the Malays in their greetings, but it has never been seen by the writer.
CHAPTER XXII.
Tlic krl.s : Sizes — Dainiiskiiig— The execution ■ kris — The sword of state— Tlie klawang— The parang — Lance — Spear of state — Blowpipes — Poisoned arrows — Firearms — Matchlocks — Lclahs — Stockades.
Hardly any weapon has attained to so evil a noto- riety as the kris of the Malay. It has been accredited with being deadly, fatally poisonous, and used upon the most trivial occasions l)y its owner. In fjict, there have been writers who have made the !Malay out to be worse than the swaggering followers of the Japanese chieftains, whose great delight is said to be to try the temper of tlieir keen blades upon anything or any person they meet ; and have accused them of plunging a new kris into the body of the first comer to see its effect, while the lookers-on curiously examined the wound. Now, that the kris is a deiidly weapon must be at once admitted, and that its use is far too frequent cannot be denied ; but when it is taken into considera- tion that in Perak every ]\Iahiy wears a kris as part of his di-ess,'and that he is by -nature quick to resent an insult, it will not be thought surjirising that wounds are frequently given and deaths result. In fact, such occurrences were only too frequent in our own land
TILE Kins. 239
wheu it was the custom for ovcry gentluman to cany a sword ; and it is not so very long since, according to our code of honour, it was considered necessary for an insult to be washed out in blood. Fairly speaking, with the kris always ready to their hand, the wonder is that it is not more frequently used amongst the Malays than proves to be the case. In our Settle- ments, however, the people are not permitted to wear either the kris or any other weapon under the penalty of a fine. There are exceptions, though, to this police regulation in the special permission given to followers of the Maharajah of Johore and some other important chiefs.
The great sin with which the kris is accredited by Europeans is that it is poisonous ; but though there may be cases where a kris has had its blade smeared with some virulent concoction, these are decidedly the exceptions, for the rule is that the blade is not poisoned ; and when on various occasions, while examining the weapon, the WTiter has alluded to the care necessary with so deadly an instrument, the Malay has ridiculed the idea of its being envenomed. In fact, it seems reasonable that this is not the case ; for if prepared with a vegetable poison, as it would probably be, the effect would only be transitory, fi'om the action of the atmosphere destroying the deadly nature of the preparation, which would have to be constantly renewed ; while a Malay himself will say. Why should it be poisoned when it will make so
240 "SARONG" AND "JvIilS."
fiital a wound without ? There is great force in this last argument, for from its wavy flame-shaped blade, the kris, with its <louble edge, divides the flesli in a cut in a terrible manner, tlie wound l^eing enormous as produced by so small a weapon ; and when it is used with the knowledge gained by experience, aa in executions, a thrust seems to be almost instanta- neously fatal.
To so wide a notoriety has this blade then attained, that it will be only fair to give it the precedence before firearms in descriljing the weapons of the Malay. As intimated, it is worn by all — from the golo, a kris made of very inferior iron, carried by the poorest Malay, to the elaborate weapon orna- mented with gold, ivoiy, and precious stones ; one of which, as seen in the sarong of a chief in Lombok, was, from its diamond setting, valued at seven hun- dred pounds. A chief will frequently wear two or even more of these weapons.
The spelling and pronunciation of this name have often been a difficulty with Europeans : the Por- tuguese, according to De la Louljere, calling it " Christ," from the Malayan "crid," of which the best in his day cimie from Acheen. Crawfurd, the distinguished ^^Titer on Malay questions, thinks it is an abbreviation of the word karis, a dagger ; and that it took its rise in the scarcity and deamess of iron, which, unless imported, must have been rarer and dearer than gold itseH *' It is not to be sup-
SIZE OF KRIS. 241
posed," he says, " without ii cause so adecjuatc, that the ludian IsLiiiders, any more than semi- barbarians acquainted witli the use of iron, could have neglected the useful and formidable sword for the trifling and ineffectual dagger ; and that the Indian Islanders have continued the use of their favourite weapon after the cause has in great measure ceased to operate needs not explanation to those who are aware of the obstinate adherence of barbarians to ancient habit and custom, particularly in matters where national pride and vanity are engaged."
The blade of the Malay kiis varies in width from one inch to one and a half, and in length from four- teen to eighteen inches. It is of various forms, accord- ing to the taste or station of the wearer, and is formed straight, slightly curved at the apex, and waving throughout from hilt to point ; sometimes with two or three curves, often with ten or a dozen. It is inva- riably two-edged, and very keen ; and many of the finer blades are veined and damascened in a very beautiful manner, having a dull dead silvery appear- ance— for burnished steel finds no favour with these people. In the more ancient kinds it is no unusual thing to find the blade veined with gold or silver, which adds gTeatly to the beauty of the weapon. In fact, the maker of krises is looked u^^on by the Malays as a person of importance, just as the armourer was in ancient days with us ; and his blades are considered, as he fashions them of various designs,
242 *'8AB0KG" AND ''KRlS."
great works of art. This vcining or watering a kris is called by the Malays pa??iu7', and its mode of execution is admirably given by Mr. Newbold, who, in his " Straits of JMalacca," dwells at some length on the method of damasking krises, a process which it has not Ijeen the writer's good fortune to witness. The recipe is doubtless obtained from the Malays themselves, and runs iis follows :
Place on the blade a mixture of boiled rice, sxilphur, and salt, beat together, first taking the precaution of covering the edges of the weapon with a thin coat of virgin wax. After this has remained on seven days the damask will have risen to the surface. Take the composition off, and immerse the blade in the water of a young cocoa-nut, or the juice of a pine-apple, for seven days longer, and brush it well with the juice of a sour lemon. After the rust has been cleared away, rub it with arsenic (icarangan) dissolved in lime-juice, wash it well with spring- water, dry, and anoint with cocoa-nut oiL
The iron of which the blades is composed is a mixture obtained from Celebes and Java, which is blended with steel, and beaten up so that, as in our best guu-baiTcls, the welded metal shows a distinct grain, upon which the various artists pride themselves greatly — an immense amount of care and industry being bestowed upon this work, as there is also upon the handles, which, from their peculiar cui've, seem to a European very unsuitable for gra.sping in the hand. But wlien it is taken into consideration that they are held dagger-wise, it will be seen that a good grip can be taken, and the weajion used with deadly effect.
THE EXECUTION KBI8. 243
These handles ure made of either gold, ivory, ebony, or the kamooning wood, and occasionally of buflalo- liorn ; and in either case they are carved and polished with great taste, but generally witli scrupulous atten- tion to the customs of their ancestors.
Of late, a great deal of the manufacture of these weapons lias been done by the Chinese, who are not only good smiths, but clever artificers in adorning and perfecting their work, especially the sheaths. These latter are composed of three distinct parts : the sam- piran, which is the ornamental part of the hilt ; the main sheath or envelope of the blade, which, like the garment, is called sarong ; and the huntul, or ferrule, at the end. The sheath is mostly of wood, with ornaments of ivory, hard-wood, or gold, to form the ferrule ; but in the case of valuable weapons it is formed wholly of gold ; while gold, brass, or an alloy of the two metals, is used to form the ornament to the handle.
The kris is the instrument of execution, and one belonging to the Sultan of Salangore, which is used upon these occasions, is made with a straight narrow blade, and with a sheath of pure gold. The Malays are exceedingly punctilious in the shape, size, and general formation of their kris, and look upon its due perfection with superstitious awe ; for to certain weapons they attach as much importance as to tJie Excalibur of ancient chivalry.' Different forms of damask produce different efl^cts. With one kind
B 2
244 "SARONG" AND ''KlUSr
the owner of such a kris cannot be overcome ; others arc gcui-rally auspicious ; another gives luck to its wearer when trading or voyaging ; and, generally, the value of the weapon does not depend on its costly orna- mentation, but upon the accuracy of proportion in its blade ; while a kris that has frequently shed blood is greatly increased in superstitious value. There is a reverse to this, however ; for where one of these weapons does not answer to certain proportions in its mejisurement ^vith a piece of string, which is doubled or folded in three according to a very puerile formula, it is denounced as unlucky for the wearer — not for him who receives its stab. The superstitions are, however, many in connection with this blade. If it has been an heirloom, or presented by some superior, it is proportionately esteemed ; and no greater reverence or higher qualities could have been attached to any of the celebrated blades of romance than is paid to this, the peculiar weapon of the Malay.
The best kriscs are made by the Bugis, or at the ancient seat of the Malay power in Sumatra, already refened to as Menang Kabau ; but their manufacture is common in many of the native states, though the quality of the metal and the temper of the blade is not considered to be so good.
The kris is held in far higher esteem than the lance, and these various points of estimation, as enumerated, are mentioned by several of the olden
SWORD OF STATE. 246
visitors to the countries inhabited by the Malays ; in fact, these peculiarities are very prominent, and are readily observed, having been handed down from generation to generation, and impressed upon the young as part of their education. Considered an almost indispensable article of his dress, the Malay always wears his kris on the left side, where it is held up by the twisting of the sarong, with which during an interview it is considered respectful to conceal the weapon; and its handle is turned with its point close to the body if the wearer is friendly. If, however, there is ill blood existing, and the wearer be angry, the kris is exposed, and the point of the handle turned the reverse way. To refer once more to the question of poisoning the blade, no instance of this has come to the knowledge of the writer, either in Perak or the other states of the peninsula.
The sword is also held in much veneration. It is, to all intents and j)urposes, an ornament, being seldom worn or used in war, but taking its place amongst the various objects forming the regalia of a native state ; and on state occasions it is always carried by a faithful and special attendant upon the sultan, rajah, or chief, "who is styled the Buntara, or sword-bearer. His care of the sword is excessive, and when he rests it anywhere it is only upon his right shoulder, with the hilt uppermost, and not there till he has first placed for it to rest upon a handkerchief or cloth kept for the purpose. Kespect for the weapon demands
246 ''SARONG" AND "KRlS."
that tliis sliall invariably l)c done ; and in the illus- tration rL'jirc'Sontin«j^ Sultan Abdullah and his chiefs, these points will be seen rigorously attended to by the various buutarius who carry the swords or weapons of state. These frequently have the hilts jewelled very richly, and the scabbards covered with the royal yellow in silk or velvet ; and the custom of sending the sword with its bearer as an ambassador in advance of the chief is not uncommon. In fact, if the buntara carries the Rajah's sword to a house where, as is elsewhere referred to, there is a maiden the chief desires, it is sufHcienit, and the superior's command is obeyed. This custom of sending the sword in advance has been more than once adopted by European officials in the peninsula, who have been well acquainted with the habits of the people, and who probaljly considered that this acceptance of their forms would be agree- able ; but whether appreciated by the iMalays is quite another matter. The sword seems to be. associated by these people more with their idea of antiquity, and its use is tinged with religion. It is a weapon of fonn, like our own swords of state and those placed beliind the judges ; and the Malay's veneration for it is probably derived from the respect which they foimd the Arabs to possess for the sword as handed down to them by Mahomet. In fact, a ^lahomedan conqueror of the Greeks is called by them one of the Swords of God.
There is a sword of state in the regalia of Perak ; and this, with other articles composing it, including
SWORD OF STATE. 247
110 fewer than twenty of the choicest elephrints of the country — eleplumts being a part of the regalia — was carried off by Sultan Isnuiil during the " little war," in his flight from Blanja and Kinta, when startled by the j\lalays under Kajali IMahmood forming the advance-guard of our troops.
The Malays related to us an incident concerning this sword which is worthy of repetition, as it shows the great respect paid by the people to this weapon. During his flight Ismail was at a place in the jungle called Campong Kampayan, and in his distress he sent for his chief punghulu, or native chief, who, probably seeing the hopeless state of the country after the murder of Mr. Birch, and concluding that his master's chance was irretrievably gone, refused to come. Upon learning this, Ismail drew this sword from the scabbard, and planting it in the ground, thus addressed it : "If you are, as I believe, the invulnerable pillar of the state, I shall yet return to my country." Then reverently replacing the sword in its scabbard, he hastily mounted his elephant, and fled with his wives to Chumoh.
According to Newbold, the Malays consider the sword to have prior claims to antiquity to the spear, and it is said to be found sculptured on ancient temples and tombs in Java ; while one celebrated weapon of legendary lore is said to have been em- ployed to kill an enormous serpent, which ravaged Menang Kabau in the twelfth century. Amongst the
248 *' SARONG" AND "KRlS."
otlier swords fouud amongst the Malays there is the klmoang, a long heavy blade, with a peculiarly-shaped buffalo-lioru handle, tlie blade increasing in width to nearly the point, somewhat after the representations of the old scimitar of the artist, but in this case the blade is straight ; and there is also the nmja, or draf^on-headed sword, a somewhat similar weapon to the last, only that its buffalo-horn hilt is carved into the ]\Ialayan idea of a dragon, the same as the prows of thcii' dragon-boats. It is richly ornamented with silver, and borne by the attendants as previously described. The weapon worn by Sultan Abdullah in the engraving, it should be mentioned, is probably of European manufacture, and goes with his uniform, both being extra ^lalay in ever}^ point.
A knife is invariably carried at the waist by the lower-class Malay, or he may have instead the little common kris known as a golo -, but the peasant's rejrular cutting: instrument, one which serves the puii)Ose of both knife and weapon, is the j;a7*arj^, which he wears slung at his left side like a short sword ; and the dexterous way in which this is used in cutting a way through the jungle is often the admiration of the European. It is so well weighted and balanced at the point, that a ver}' slight effort is needed to cut through the brushwood of the forest They have also a sword with a thin blade, which being of a finely-tempered steel, is capable of taking a remarkably good edge. The Malays are very dex-
TUE LIMBING. 249
toroiis ill its use, iind perform one feat with it of which tlicy are as proud as the horseman is of his tent-pegging on tlie phiins of India. The Malay phices a plantain-stem loosely on the ground, and then, without suffering it to fall, divides it again and again, slicing directly through the stem by means of a series of right and left cuts, delivered with admirable rapidity and effect.
The earliest weapons of the Malays were, after clubs, in spite of their own opinions, most probably spears, of which the forest would yield an inex- haustible supply in the shape of bamboos ; which were hardened at the ends with fire, and then brought to a point, and used in connection w^ith a wooden shield or buckler. At the present time the spear is still a favourite weapon ; and in his attacks upon his enemies the Malay places great faith in its deadly qualities. It is called a limhing, and is not only used with great effect as a lance, but when driven to desperation the Malay hurls it like a javelin with almost unerring aim. The shaft is from five to seven feet in length, and is usually made of a hard red wood ; but, unlike that of the ancient JMalays, its head is of fine steel, dagger-shaped, and shaqoened to an edge equal to that of a razor. The men of Perak are particularly expert in the use of this weapon, as many of us, in view of those we lost during the little war at the piratical village of Kotah Lamah, had only too accurate and painful evidence ; for the thrower was
250 ''SAROXG" AND " A'7?7.S."
often unseen, while the spear came like an arrow in its vcloeity, and inflicted a wound nearly as deadly as a bayonet-thnist.
Another spear or lance used by these people is known as the tomhak handranfj, and this is more a spear of state. Like the spear carried by the Bugis, it is largely ornamented with hair, dyed red or black ; and this flows down from the upper part of the handle. These have theii- special bearers, and are carried before the chiefs on state occasions. The sling, it seems, was also known, but very little used, as was ■ also the case with the bow ; but both these weapons seem to have been considered of light value even before the introduction of fii-earms. Probably this was due to the expert use made of the sinnpitaii, or blow-pipe, which in some cases was made to act as the shaft of a spear as well.
These blow-pipes are especially in use amongst the Sakais, who also carry the parang and a long-shafted spoar. A small quiver of bamboo contains the arrows, and these are decidedly of two kinds — the poisoned and non-poLsonous. Some of these slender darts are sent with such s\Wftness from the long blow-pipe, which is frequently nine or ten feet in length, that for a considerable distance they are invisible, and the aim is wonderful in its precision. The sumpitan is of course a narrow tube ; while the an'ow is about as thick as a crowquill, eight inches long, and pointed, the other end being covered with down or pith to
POISONED ARROWS. 2ol
make it fit the tul >e. The point, if venomcd, is coated with the poisoning preparation for about an inch ; and where it ends the wood is cut, so that the point may easily break oft' in a wound.
The Sakais use diff'ereut kinds of poison for these arrows, and prepare them with a great deal of the mummery of superstition ; so that the concoction somewhat resembles the work of witchcraft, Ipoli, or upas ; tuba, the plant used for poisoning fish, and which is apparently the coccidus indicus of our druggists' shops; and red arsenic, or warangan, are amongst the primary articles used in their prepara- tions, mingled with others which probably only act the part of vehicle. A decoction is, however, made in various forms over a charcoal fire, simmered down to a syrup, and afterwards poured into bamboos for preservation. These various poisons are of a dark colour, and emit a strong narcotic odour, probably from the opium added. Their power, however, seems to be evanescent, as they deteriorate by keeping.
In experiments made before Lieutenant Newbold, a squirrel, after being shot, died in twelve minutes ; young dogs in about forty ; a fowl in two hours, though one lingered over seven. One of their pre- parations, however, is asserted by the Benua to be so strong, that three arrows tipped with it will kill a man in less than an hour, and a tiger in three.
The Malays must have been acquainted with artillery from very early times, for De Barros, in
252 "SARONG" AND *' KRlB."
ft
speaking of tlie taking of Malacca by the Portuguese ill 1510, says that tlio guns were of great size, " but that tlioy found no more tliaii 3000 out of 8000, said to be by Kuy dc Arajo" (a i»risoner of Segueera's fleet), in this city. Among them was one " very beautiful piece, which the King of Calicut had lately sent a Hindu prince, called by the Portuguese, Zamosin." And later still, the same writer, in giving an account of an expedition sent by the ^lalays of Java against Malacca, after its possession Ijy the Portuguese, says that the force was provided with artillery made in Java.
As ' to lighter pieces, matchlocks have also been known to the Malays since at least the middle of the fourteenth century, and the name they give them is simpang, probably from the Dutch snaj>-pan, and from these they fire tin bullets, in which it is said they frequently insert pieces of common earthenware or china. This has not been observed by the writer ; but in some that were fired against the expedition during the late rising, it was no uncommon thing to find a grain of rice. Old-fashioned blunderbusses, too, seem to have been in favour, several of which were seen in Kotah Lamah, which was a regular haunt of fighting men.
The matchlocks made at ^lenang Kabau — which for manv generations has been famous for its arms — are the most in favour, but they are clumsy pieces, with stocks literally for holding the barrel, as they do not fit the shoulder ; while the gun itself is laid, on
LELAUa. 25a
# _ —
iiocount of its weight, in a rest, aud the aim taken by- lowering the piece is very incliftercnt. They have finely-worked locks of brass, which arc made for hold- ing the match of coir-rope ; but these pieces are natu- rally set aside when European guns can be obtained, and muskets and rifles are now not uncommon. Like the handle of the naga, the natives are very fond of having their blunderbusses with mouths worked up into the form of the dragon's head ; and this is done with some skill. As to the barrels, the native smiths, with very indifferent tools, t\vist a bar of tough iron round a rod, weld it together, and after inserting the barrel in the earth for steadiness, bore it smoothly out, and produce twisted barrels of very handsome workmanship, though they fail in the finer mechanism of the locks.
The heavy guns employed in stockades are gene- rally long pieces of brass called lelahs ; they are large guns, but have a very small bore, and only carry a two or three pound iron shot. These are the guns that are used in the large praus in piratical expeditions, and their ordinary range is fom^ or five hundred yards, thouo-h with elevation the distance can be much in- creased. In these more peaceful times, when piracy is nearly extinct, they are kept for more harmless pur- poses, one Rajah at the native state of Tringanu — a celebrated place for the manufacture of ordnance — having four mounted on swivels upon the beach, where they are used for firing salutes.
254 "SAliONa" AND '' KBiS."
Occasionally, however, heavier guns are purchased at Peuang and Singapore, where they c:in easily be procured, and in this way some of the rajahs are jios- scssed of six-pounder iron guns and caironades. These iron guns they call miriams, derived probably, says Crawfurd, from the name of " Mary," as being known to them first from the Arabs, who had obtained them from the Christians — a derivation that might be looked upon as of not much value, only for the peculiar instances that arc met with again and again. The swivel is the favourite means of mounting their guns, especially the smaller lelahs, which are found wuth bores as small as an inch in diameter ; and from these slugs are fired, as in the case of the matchlocks, made of tin. As may readily be supposed, these bullets, from the lightness of the metul, have only a short range.
For the manufacture of their gunpowder the natives of Perak have a fair supply of -nitre, or salt- petre, in the state ; the preparation of charcoal is very common ; and the sulphur has been probably obtained fi-om the Bugis traders, who brought it from Java and the Celebes, or such volcanic islands in the neighbour- hood as produced it in abundance. A good deal of nitre is easily procurable from the caverns in the lime- stone, where the excreta of bats lies to a considerable depth, and gives forth this salt on preparation. As a rule, the native gunpowder — the art of manufacturing which WMS probably learned from the Chinese — ^is poor
STOCKADES. 256
iu strength uucl coarse in grain ; Lut, to meet tliis (lifHculty, they prepare a finer sort, which is retained for the purpose of priming their guns. Cartridges are not unknown, but cane is substituted for pajjer, and these seem to resemble the old bandoleers of our musketeers of two or three hundred years ago.
Taken altogether, the Malay has proved very slow at adopting the implements of war of more civilised nations, and though he possesses firearms in their various forms, the favourite weapons are still the limbing, or lance, and the kris, as shown by the native proceedings in the late war.
One of the principal features of their warfare is the stockade, in the construction of which defence the Malays are very expert. In fact, they are at their best when fighting under cover — a fact of which they are well aware, and hence the care that is taken in the woodland fortifications. As an enemy they are very little to be dreaded in the open, seldom if ever venturing to make a regular attack, except on single men or defenceless parties on the line of com- munication, as they showed during the war, when the postal runners were frequently speared while going with despatches from post to post. In making their stockades — which the reader is aware consist of strong fences of bamboo or other material, to keep out an enemy — they display great dexterity, both in the selection of a suitable locality to place the fortification,
266 ''SARONG" AND "A'/J.S."
and the choice and manipulation of the materials at their command.
In Perak, cxccptinj[^ at Passir Sala, tlierc were no stockades of any importance during the little war, probaljly because there was no real intention on the side of the chiefs elsewhere to forcibly resist the British authority, as there was in fact no ankatan, or rising : or it may have been that the measures taken by the authorities, consequent u}>on the murder of Mr. Birch at this place, were too rapid to enable a slow-moving people to erect defences and prepare for war. ' Hence it was that all the principal villages which might have been provided with this means of defence remained open to attack.
In other parts of the peninsula, however, stockades of a very formidable nature existed, such as could not be taken by a European force without the aid of the vertical fire of artillery. Among these w^re the de- fences erected by the Malays in the Terrachee valley in Songhy Ujong. These were well manned, and would probably have held out against us, had they not been taken by surprise and gallantly turned by Major Channer, V.C., and the force under Colonel Clay.
The favourite positions for erecting these fortifica- tions are often such as would be chosen by a trained European engineer, since natural strength is selected, and the protection aff"orded l)y defiles, hills, or a river or impassable swamp. In some cases the walls are
8T00KADE8. 257
made of mud, in others of stout pieces of hard- wood laid side by side, while a favourite plan is to drive two rows of stakes deeply into the soil, point their ends, and fill up the space between with mud and stones, thus forming a strong wall. Outside this fence or wall, a ditch is dug of an average depth of five feet, and a similar width, the earth being thrown outwards, when it is not required inside the stockade to make platforms for the guns, or for filling up the spaces between the rows of stakes.
One stockade at Sempaug, Malacca, was of a different form ; in fact, it almost merited the title of a military blockhouse. It was built on a point of land with the branch of a river flowing on either side, and was capable of containing thirty or forty men. The sides were of stout planking, loopholed for musketry, with trap-doors to let down like the portholes of a ship, in which guns were placed to command the river. The roof was the feeblest part, being merely attap ; but it was built on posts in a deep trench, the earth of which was thrown up at the sides, and sloped so as to form a glacis right up to the loopholes and embrasures of the guns. The entrance was by means of a ladder, which was afterwards drawn up within, effectually preventing further ingress, while the raised floor was perforated here and there, so as to enable the defenders to keep their enemy at a distance to the very last. The interior was shown in a drawing sent to the Graphic and published in November, 1875.
258 "SARONG" AND '' KRiS."
In the rear of this building were two more koohoos, or stockades, so placed as to give a command of fire right and left of the main defence. So cleverly was the whole designed, that all pointed to the fact that the ]\Ialay who constructed the place had obtained some of his ideas from Western nations, probably from what he had seen done by the British soldiery during the Nauing War of 1832 ; or he may have profited by the works of the Dutch and Portuguese engineers, whose practice it was to build forts whenever a factory or trading emporium was establisheci These were erected all over the peninsula, and the remains of many of them exist to the present time.
The Malay is very ingenious in hampering the
advance of an enemy, or hindering him when in pursuit.
One favourite instrument for this purpose is the
ranjow, which is of various sizes, and composed of
bamboo hardened in the fire and sharply pointed.
These ranjows, or stakes, are stuck about in the long
grass, with their points towards the coming enemy,
and in their native wars cause terrible injuries to the
bare feet and legs of the people ; and even with
European troops they are obstacles not to be despised
in a march through the jungle. In warfare a ]\Ialay
will carry a bundle of these upon his back, ready to
plant here and there, whilst larger kinds are not unfre-
quently placed about theii- stockades, which are often
provided with an ambush in the shape of extensive
grow^ths of maize or sugar-cane.
8T00KADE8. 259
Trees are often cut d(jwii, either to fiiJl across a track, or witli their tops towards the coming foe, and these form a serious obstacle to the advance of troops where the jungle is like an impenetrable wall on either side. This was done on the elephant-track to Kinta, near a place called Chankat Dungla, along which General Colborne and. his forces successfully threaded, their way with their guns in the face of obstacles of every kind. For the people of Perak, in spite of the frequent sounding of the gong for the signal to attack during the late war, proved themselves, probably from native jealousies, incapable of being organised, and led. to perform a feat of any magnitude ; the injury to our forces being for the most part in surprises or attacks upon the weak and unprepared.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Swimming — Music — Grames : Ball-play — Chess — Cock-fighting — The national sport.
Allusion has been made more than once to the love of bathing displayed by the Malays, but their power as swimmers has not been mentioned. In this pursuit they are very able, and as divers exhibit qualities of endurance that are sui-prising. One instance of their power in this direction is well worthy of note. It was in the case of a ship that had touched upon a coral- reef and made a rent in the sheathing, when a Malay, being furnished with a sheet of copper suitable in size, and perforated with holes round the edge, dived down with the piece, a hammer, and a naU, staying uuilcr water long enough to fit the copper in its place over the leak, and drive in one naU before coming to the surface, and then going down to drive in nail after nail till the plate was fixed, his movements being perfectl}' visible through the clear water.
Tanks are favourite bathing -places ; and over these, amongst the higher classes, it is a common practice to erect a room for dressing and perfuming
MU8I0. 261
tlicniselvcs ; and excursions in boats to bathing-places form the Malay idea of a picnic, for they will make tlu'ir journey, and then spend the day in bathing, dressing, and the preparation of delicious dishes for feasting, while the return home from the trip amongst the lilies and lotus-plants is made pleasant with music and singing. Altogether, there is something A'cry dreamy and delicious in these excursions, indulged in, as they are, in a soft climate, amidst the beautiful vegetation of the eastern land ; and it is to be re- gretted that all the Malayan peasants are not so inno- cent and idyllic.
They are particularly fond of singing, and often engage in musical contests, displaying a good ear and readily catching up European airs. In fact, the Maharajah of Johore has trained a band of young Malays to play on the regular brass and stringed instruments of our own country, and their rendering of operatic airs is anything but despicable, their performances being, indeed, quite equal to those of the bands of Siam, which have obtained some notoriety.
Amongst the native instruments the violin is the favourite, but there is also a kind of guitar. The per- cussion instrument that stands first with the Malays is the gong, which is their beau ideal of martial music? and is sounded as a signal of assembly or alarm, and for commencing a fight in war-prau or stockade. They have also a kind of wooden gong or bell, formed of the trunk of a tree, a portion of which is hoi-
262 "SARONO" AND *'KBl8:*
lowed out and suspended from a framework. AVhen this is struck with a mallet, the hollow boom is carried to great distances, and the idea has been taken up and used for signalling at our police stations in the Settle- ments. In fact, the Malays have a very good idea of the sonorous properties of wood, as evinced in the wooden instrument, with its sad, but not unpleasing wail, suspended in their trees, and also in a kind of harmouicon, formed of graduated pieces of hard-wood or bamboo, ranged in a coffin-shaped box, and struck with a small hammer, having a pliable handle. The mosque dium has been mentioned, but they have also one which they call tambour, a very familiar and evidently borrowed name, just as the term hiola for the one-stringed violin must be of western origin.
Dancing is indulged in occasionally at festivals, where the young people meet, but strict wat<5h is kept the while by the elder dames, for a Mahomedan does not approve of our western customs in this respect. They have, however, professional dancing-girls, whose costume is made attractive with artificial flowers and a crown of tinsel and gilding ; these are, however, rare in Perak.
The people of Perak and the peninsula, though not players at cricket and lawTi tennis, which will doubtless come with the spread of civilisation, have something in the shape of athletic sports, for the young men will indulge in wrestling lx)uts with some display of vigour. They are very expert, too, in
GAMES. 263
tossing tlic raga, or wicker-bull, which is thrown in the air to one of the party, and the object then is to keep it up, this being done with hands, feet, shoulders, or knees, every part of the body being brought into play to keep the elastic ball from falling to the ground. Their dexterity at times over this is wonderful, and the game forms a healthy, invigorating amusement, that might well come into fashion in England, in spite of its resemblance to our own football, upon which it may by some be considered as a refinement.
Sometimes at their festivals a kind of imitation war-dance is indulged in, which has the drawback, however, of the opposing parties waxing warm with excitement, and exchanging the artificial for the genuine, getting up quite a real fight, and having to be withdrawn. The Malays of Province Wellesley, who accompanied Mr. W. Maxwell, our Deputy-com- missioner to Perak, gave us at his request some very amusing exhibitions of this kind. This was during the expedition to put down the rising ; and these Pro- vince Wellesley Malays, who have been for some time under British rule, were most loyal in their behaviour, and certainly deserved some recognition of the action they took — a recognition that it would not have been bad policy to give them in some significant way. For they stood bravely by their officers when under fire in a most cheerful and steady manner ; and it must have been very galling to their own countrymen and co- religionists in Perak to witness this, while it was a
264 ''SARONO" AND '' KRiS."
reinnrkal)ly trying test of their own faitlifulness to their Christian masters.
Among tlicir quieter games the Malays arc not unaware of" the amusement afforded by riddles and enigmas, some of which, as propounded by the more educated classes, are clever and hard to solve. Chess too is kno\Mi, and played by them on what they call i^ajniii chatoor — literally, a plank with chequers. Their pieces are very similar to the European, and they give them the names of —
|
Eajah. |
King. |
|
Muntri, or Vizier. |
Quet-n. |
|
Gajali (EU'pliant). |
Bishop. |
|
Koodah (Hare). |
Knight. |
|
Ter (Chariot). |
Castle. |
|
Beedah (Foot-soldier). |
Pawn. |
The game they call gajah — main gajah, " the game of elephant." Check is sah ; and mat, check-mate.
This word main signifies to play or gamble, and is in the latter ca.se used in conjunction with the word jiidi. This was originally main judi, to gamble with small shells, or judis, hence the term. Gambling is one of the Malay's greatest failings, for a man will not only stake his all, but even his person, and, if mar- ried, his wife and children, becoming, as already inti- mated, the slaves of the more fortunate players. Dice and cards have been introduced by the Chinese, and over these considerable sums (for them) are lost : but it is with their more national games that perhaps the
COCK-FIGHTING. 2G5
hcavie.st stakes arc hazarded. For under the term national may be included the quail and cock fighting, and the bull and tiger fight.
Cock-fighting especially is much practised by the inhabitants of Perak and other parts of the peninsula, though wisely interdicted in our own settlements. Like many other Malay customs, it seems to have been first introduced from the island of Sumatra, probably from Menang Kabau, and has gradually spread itself all over the Archipelago, making its chief home in Manilla, where it is now recognised by the Government — though it is said not to have been known there till the arrival of the Malays to colonise or trade.
So great is the love of this sport, that not only have poems eulogising it been written, but codes describino- the laws and best breeds of figjhtino;-cocks. No less than ten good kinds are mentioned under specific names ; and their breeding and training is made more of an art amongst the people than, according to the wTiter's own knowledge, it was some years since amongst the princes of Central India. The Malays frequently use the artificial spur of steel, called by them goloh or taji. This is from an inch and a half to two inches in length, about one-eighth of an inch in breadth, sharpened on both sides, keenly pointed, and straight or curved according; to the taste of the owner — one being generally used, but two if to match a weak bird against one that is stronger. This spur is tied
266 "SARONG" AND *'KRlSr
on the leg, either above, below, or on the natural spur itself. Upon important occaHions large bets are made on the result of the contest in the golonyan, or cockpit ; and the losers, as is usual in most gaming transactions, are often driven to great desperation, and bitter feuds are consequently engendered.
Quails are often fought in the same way ; for these and several other varieties of birds can easily be trained to dis[)lay their pugnacity in a battle with a stranger-bii-d ; while even crickets are matched one against the other, and fight with vigour.
The cock-fights are cruel in the extreme ; for the spurs are sharpened on a fine whetstone, and the gashes inflicted upon the unfortunate birds frequently result in death ; for the combatants are as daring a.s our own game-fowl. But they are not dubbed and trimmed, as used to be the custom in our own more barbarous days, but fight in full feather.
The grand national sport is the tiger and buffalo fight ; but this is not very frequently indulged in, on account of the great trouble and expense necessitated in preparing a fitting enclosure, and also perhaps from the difficulty of obtaining suitable animals to pit one against the other in the contest.
Upon the occasion of the Duke of Iklinburgh's visit to the Straits Settlements, one of these displays was prepared by a native prince ; and on the day arranged the two beasts were placed in a strong enclosure made of stakes of the nibong-palm, tho-
THE NATIONAL SPORT. 267
roughly secured :iutl streugtlienecl with iron, so that there was not the slightest risk to the lookers-on. In the centre was a large curtain, which divided the buffalo from the tiger ; and for a time the spectators had an opportunity of examining the peculiarities of each animal. The Inifi'alo was a splendid creature of its kind, fresh from roaming about in its native pas- tures, but it was heavy and dull-looking in the ex- treme. The tiorer too was a maonificent animal, with its glossy coat and lithe graceful movements ; but it had the disadvantao;e of liavino- been confined to its cage since its capture.
Upon a signal being given the two animals, which had been calmly observant of the crowd, were sud- denly brought face to face by the quick withdrawal of the curtain, and then the change in each was remark- able. The dull and heavy buffalo suddenly assumed an aspect of intense ferocity. The horns, usually pointed back, were thrown forward ; the thick strong neck seemed to swell out till it was twice its natural size ; the body was curved into an arch ; the tail erect : and quite motionless, but watchful in the ex- treme, the animal awaited the tiger's attack. The tiger on its part seemed nothing loath to engage in the con- test. Its eyes dilated ; the hair about its neck stood erect ; its face seemed to flatten out and grow broader ; and with its lithe tail twisting and writhing gently, it crawled for a short distance close to the ground, and then gathered itself up for its tremendous spring.
268 "SAllONQ" AND *' KRiS."
Meanwhile the huffalo remained, with its pointed horns and eyes fixed upon its adversary, awaiting the charge, which was not hjng in coming ; for tlic tiger made one tremendous bound with apparently iiTe- sistible force, trying to catch the buffalo by the back of the neck ; but in this case it was unsuccessful, and only made a flesh-wound with its powerful claws, before it was thrown off with apparent ease.
Foiled in its attack, it now began to sidle off like a great cat, when, before it could get ready for another spring, it was set upon by the bufl'alo in turn, the furious beast rushing at it, and w^ith a roar of rage burjnng one of its sharp horns in the striped flank, and then following it up with a series of thrusts and tossings till its feline enemy was gored to death.
This was one of the now rare exhibitions of the kind ; for the bufialo and tiger fight, and other bar- barous practices, are rapidly dying out before the advance of .Western ci\'ilisation, and the introduction of more humanising e^ames.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Seafaring — Boat-building — Tlic Dragon boat — Sampans — Praus — Little Mercy — Piratical craft.
The generally-received idea of a Malay is that lie is a pirate, who goes about in a prau, armed with a kris, and robs and murders every unfortunate being he encounters : but probably the reader who has gone so far through these pages has come to the conclusion that the native of the peninsula and the neighbouring isles is a man a little higher in the scale. '"' Some writers," says Marsden, "have compared the human species inhabiting a country to the animals indige- nous to the same place : hence the Malay is said to resemble both the tis^er and the buffalo of his land. In his domestic state he is like the latter — indolent, stubborn, and voluptuous ; while in his adventurous life and. in his ire he is like the tiger — bloodthirsty, cruel, and rapacious."
This comparison is greatly overdrawn, but there is a grain of truth in it, for coupled as the Malay has been by early association with the Arab, and having embraced his religion, it is in no wise sm'prising that
270 "SARONG" AND '' KlilS."
we should find tin- " rol)ber of the desert " converted in some instances into the " inveterati; pirate," with, at the same time, that utter indifference to the future which fatalism alone engenders. It must not, how- ever, be supposed that as a rule the Malay is a pirate of the old school, for the piracies are, for the most part, chieftain-like raids. There is no petty thieving, but bold attacks upon vessels by men who seem to have considered that they had a right to mulct the travellers on the great highway of the sea at their will. With such ideas then, and having always been a great maritime nation, whose wanderings have extended from the east coast of Africa to the Pacific, it is not surprising that to a great extent the Malays have been freebooters. Good sailors they have always been, and to the present day they are the best eastern seamen a captain can obtain ; and the fame of the Lascars is known to every trader on the sea, some captains going so far as to say that they would infinitely prefer Lascars to English seamen — for the former are always sober, quiet, and to be depended upon.
A bad character has, however, attached to them in the past, and to a great extent this has been deserved, for the piracies of the chiefs have been many and frequent. In the neighbourhood of the Straits they have, through the vigilance of the cruisers, become ver}'' rare ; but a few years back the smaller trading vessels, such as those of the Bugis, had to run a dangerous gauntlet, especially anywhere in the neigh-
8AMPAN8. 271
bourhood of J^ornoo. Tiingin, an island near the Straits of Hanca, was a regular stronghold of piracy, and its inhabitants forayed principally on the Malay and Bugis praus, seizing the goods, and selling captain and crew for slaves. European vessels were pretty generally respected, especially those bearing the English Hag ; probably, says the narrator of the danger of these seas, frcTm the fact that five praus attacked an English sloop-of-war one hazy morning in mistake for an Arab vessel. " In less than five minutes four of the five were sunk, each having received one broadside only, while the fifth got under the laud by the help of her oars. These praus had six guns each and one hundred and seventy men."
We read, too, that in bygone times the Chinese vessels that traded with Ceylon and India were not only built in a superior manner to Indian and Arabian ships, but were very much larger, in consequence of having to defend themselves from the remorseless pirates who appear from time immemorial to have infested the Straits of Malacca. These ships were manned with from two to five hundred, and even a thousand men, were well-armed, and provided with naphtha to burn their assailants' vessels.
The boats built by the Malays are called sampans, whilst those intended for sea-going purposes, no matter what their size, are termed prai^s. They are in fact canoes, with plank built upon plank, to the height of bulwark considered necessary, while the sternpost
272 "SARONQ" AND "A'iZ/S."
is carried up to a pfreat height, from which tlic planks curve down to the side. The material used for making the bottoms of theii' boats water-tight is called by the Malays gala-gala, and is a composition of the resin damnuir and lime ; the seams being caulked with either the soft bark of a tree which grows in marshy places, or the scraj)ed peel of a kind of cane — in both cases dammar is afterwards used as we apply pitch. Bar- thema speaks of the praus of his day as being large vessels, capable of carrying on a trade between Malacca and Masulipatam, the port in India which, according to D'Anville, Ptolemy refers to as being near to the place whence vessels traded to Malacca,
The lines of the vessels are peculiar to the Malay, and by those who arc competent to judge they are pronounced excellent ; though ]\Ir. Wallace had strong doubts of the stability of those in which some of his trips to the ciistcrn islands were made, the open ports constructed at the sides for steering purposes being dangerous from theii* liability to ship water in a high sea : but the same writer speaks very highly of the boat-building qualities of some of the people he en- countered.
The sampans are capable of being propelled through the water at a high rate of speed by means of the ]\Ialay clayong, or oar ; and in a long journey, when the powers of endurance would have to be called into play, Europeans would have some difficulty in dis- tancing the natives. When sails are iLsed they are
THE DBAQON BOAT. 273
of iiiattiiig or cloth ; and in steering, the paddle is frequently used in prc;fcrence to the rudder, and managed with great cleverness and dexterity. Men- tion was made of their anchors being used in connec- tion with a heavy weight of stone ; and an old writer speaks of this in saying : " For their galleys they have only wooden anchors, for they know not how to melt the iron of their iron mines ; and to the end that their anchors may sink to the bottom, they fasten stones unto them. They have neither pins nor needles, nor nails, nor chisels, nor saws."
This holds good to the present day concerning the anchors, which, in the common vessels, are fre- quently lost in the interstices of the coral reefs ; but the captain of the boat has this advantage : he halts at the next suitable island, and fits himself with fresh anchors from the crooked wood of the jungle.
Specimens of the sampans of the Perak river are seen moored to the side in the illustration represent- ing the general appearance of a Malay village on the river-bank ; and in the accompanying engraving a representation is given of a sampan made specially, and under his own inspection, for the late Eesident, and in which the late Governor, Sir William Jervois, visited the country prior to the disturbances. Such a boat is called by the people a sampcui naga, or dragon sampan, from the representation on its figure- head of a fabulous serpent. It was when ascending the river in this boat that Mr. Birch was so brutally
274 ''SAliONO'' AND ''KRlsr
set ujxjn jiud murdered at Pa«sir Sala ; and the boat was afterwards sent up the river to ex-SulUm Lsmail by the nnirderers, but at once returned, and is now, to the best of the writer's belief, still in use at the Residency. Such a barge is provided with a kind of matting- tent in the stern, giving room for sleeping, and for the arrangement of guns and spears on the sides. A kind of platform exists in the extreme stern for the stcei-sman, and in front is an awning of mats, with seats for the rowers or paddlers, and poles laid along ready for punting through the shallows. The Malay boatmen employed by the Government wear a white tunic ; and a flat white cap resembling those of the Prussians.
The rafts, so cleverly constructed by binding bamboos together with rattans, have been mentioned in connection with crossing the rapids, and in the far interior the Malays even reside upon them ; but they always prefer to build their houses on the shore, and on posts well raised from the ground.
To turn to the praus that have been used by the Malays for their piracies : these average about ten tons burden, though some are made of fifty, sixty, or even one hundred tons, and are propelled thi'ough the water with paddles at a very great rate. The stockade style of fighting is introduced, for they erect wooden screens which will keep ofi" musket-balls, and from behind these the crew fire their swivel-mounted lelahs till the vessel they attack shows signs of giving in, or boai'd-
PRAUS. 276
ing is attempted in answer to the signal given by the gong. Then the limbings, or spears, krises and klcwangs, come into play, with hatchets and blun- derbusses, and the onslauglit is of a very daring nature. Malay praus generally attack in parties or fleets of several together, making their advance upon a ship disabled by the want of wind, while from their great power in paddling, the pirates are able to ap- proach in any direction so as to take their prey at a dis- advantage, and, if beaten off, can escape with ease; while, in cases wdiere they are pursued, their local knowledjre of the inlets and channels of the man- grove-fringed coast-line, with its many rivers, enables them to escape, and leave their pursuers baffled and impotent to avenge the injury.
At home then on the sea, of which they are great lovers, as shown even by their language, which con- tains many terms connected with an ocean life, and of a restless, roving nature, evident proof of which abounds in the numberless points and headlands throughout the islands and as far as Madagascar bear- ing names of Malayan extraction ; loving, too, the excitement of adventure, the Malays became the terror of the Archipelago ; for when prey was afloat they put out from the many creeks and inlets of the coast in praus thoroughly fitted in build and armament for speed and resistance. Of late however this spirit has been diverted into more peaceful channels, and such as will prove profitable to themselves and less in-
276 '*SARONO" AND "KRlS."
jurious to their neighbours and the visitors to their shores. Still, every now and then there is not wanting proof tliat in native statos, where the rein of government is held with .slackened hand, piracy on the high seas is often indulged in and even encouraged by the chiefs.
It would be hard to say whether the east or west coast of the peninsula has had the worse character for piracy, but certainly a very unenviable notoriety has attached in the past to Salangore and Perak. To go farther afield, some of the inhabitants of the Nicobar islands, Ij'ing just to the northward of Sumatra, have exhibited a disposition of a remarkably savage kind ; and in this respect differ widely from the Samangs, or negro Malays, to whom they have a strong affinity. So serious have been their acts of piracy in quite recent times in seizing vessels, and also in attacking and murdering the crews of those putting in at the islands for water, that the British government was compelled to take special notice of their acts. The consequence was that an expedition was fitted out in 1867, consisting of Her Majesty's ships Wasj) and Satellite. The expedition was accompanied by a brother of H.H. the Maharajah of Johore, and T. Dunman, Esq., as Commissioner. The latter was then the Inspector-general of Police at Singapore, and was not only possessed of a thorough knowledge of the language, but also of a singular aptitude in understanding the Malay character.
The vessels, after punishing the principal villages,
LITTLE MERCY. 277
brouglit clown tlirce or four of tluj i)iratical leaders, who had severally dubbed themselves under English names and titles, such as " Sir George Brown," &c. These men were of the average height, had the thick lips and curly hair of the Samang race, combined with the liigh cheek-bones and expanded nose of the Malay. Photographs of these people, with a full de- scription, were sent by the writer to his friend the late Mr. Crawfurd, who read a paper on the subject before the Ethnographical Society. The late Captain Edye, of H.M.S. Satellite, also brought down a little captive girl, who had evidently been taken by these people from one of the vessels they had destroyed. She was a Eurasian, and only about ten years of age, having in all probability been taken when quite an infant, for the language she spoke was very mixed, and she had no recollection of her capture.
When received on board the vessel, she imme- diately became the pet of the sailors, and was treated with all the kindness for which the British bluejacket has made himself a w^orthy name, and was soon clothed in a dress made from nav}^ serge, with a girl's hat of the latest fashion, cleverly improvised out of a man-o'-warsman's " straw," and ornamented with a cock's feather for plume.
On her arrival at Singapore, she was first placed in the girls' school attached to the late Mr. Keasberry's mission — one of the most valued institutions in the settlement — and upon its being closed she was trans-
278 "SARONG" AND "KUlS."
ferret! by the Government to the Chinese girls' school, where slic was tenderly nursed and educated, and baptised under the name of little "Mercy." The poor child, however, did not long survive, but was one of the victims about two years later to cholera.
And here it would be unjust not to notice the vast amount of good that has been done by the Society for Female Education in the East. The task of this Society is one that must bear fruit in connection with our endeavours to civilise the native states ; for its efforts are directed towards the education of the Malay and Chinese girls ; each of whom must in time form a centre from which will radiate the beneficent know- ledge she has acquired, for the permanent advantage of those around.
Among the more notorious acts of piracy in these parts that have taken place recently may be men- tioned the seizure of a junk, and the murder of the Chinese crew and passengers. This vessel sailed in 1871 from Penang, bound for Laroot, the tin district of Perak, only about thirty-six hours distant, but did not arrive ; and on enquiries being made, it was found that an ingenious plot had been laid, by which about fifteen pirates had gone aboard as passengers ; and that at an appointed time these people had risen, murdering the crew and genuine passengers, number- ing in all about thirty-four souls — men, women, and children — and carried oflf the valuable junk and her freight, a portion of which was a large sum in dollars.
PIRATICAL CRAFT. 279
The colonial steamer Pluto was immediately sent out witli orders to .scarcli for the missing junk, wbicli was found lying off Salangore, with the money gone, and the greater part of the cargo in the shops of the town. The junk was secured, with nine of the pirates ; but a rajah and his followers taking their part, kriscs were drawn, and firing took place upon the Pluto, which immediately left for Penang, where she arrived with the prisoners and her prize.
Such a resistance to the British authority, and so cruel an act of piracy on a vessel trading in our port, could not be allowed to go unpunished ; so the acting Governor despatched an expedition to secure the remainder of the pirates and recover the stolen pro- perty.
The expedition arrived off the Salangore river, entered it, and armed boats proceeded to search the vessels at anchor and some huts. Soon after, in a dispute about the Rajah going on board the PlutOy hostilities were commenced by the natives, who fled to the jungle ; and in the firing that ensued seven men of the British were wounded, including the lieu- tenant in command of the landing-party, who received a cut on the hand from a kris. More could not be done then, as the men, crowded in boats, were ex- posed to the fire of an enemy hidden in the jungle ; so the forces were drawn off.
The next morning Commander Eobinson steamed up the river in H.M.S. Einaldo — a very risky pro-
280 ''SARONG" AND " KRlS."
ceeding, iis there was a dangerous Ijar at the mouth, lu addition, he had no sui'geon on l>oard ; and he knew it would be twelve hours before the tide would allow them to pass out again. I>ut this was a noto- rious piratical haunt; and after the treacherous attack of the previous day, it was necessary to punish the people for their insult to our flag, and to teach them that they were not secure in their positions. In a short time a hot and well-directed fire was opened on the steamer from the forts, and in five minutes there were three men wounded, and the Rhialdo had suf- fered severely ; but by steaming on, the defences were turned, and before their guns could be got round, they were dismounted, or the forts knocked to pieces. Musketry-fire was then opened on the ship, but without much cflect, and soon after she grounded in soft mud, presenting a fair mark to the enemy : but fortunately his guns were all silenced and kept down by the steamer's fire.
After awhile, the tide rising, the vessel steamed out of the river, retmning with the Pluto soon after, bring- ing a detachment of the 19th Madi'as Light Infantry ; and after a little firing the Malays fled, when the town was completely burnt down, the forts destroyed, and the guns spiked or broken up — Commander Robinson, who was in charge, saying that the town would have been spared had there been anyone with whom to make terms, and had the rest of the pirates been given up. In addition, five piratical praus were
RETRIBUTION. 281
burned in this nest of pirates ; three being iirmed with two twenty-four pounders and one small gun each, with an abundance of small-anns, spears, muskets, and pistols. They were of the largest class of praus, and measured from eighty to one hundred tons each.
The result of this expedition was that the Sultan of Salangore outlawed the Rajahs who had taken part in the affair ; and all the pirates that could be found were sent to Malacca, one having died in the interim. His Highness then gave up a thousand dollars' worth of tin belonging to one of the offending chiefs, and presented Her Majesty with a very handsome pair of elephant tusks.
CHAPTER XXV.
The Jngra piracy — A native's evidence in a native court — The execution kria — An execution — The Sultan on piracy.
Even so late as the year 1873, the piracies from the native states, especially that of Salangore, were of so formidable a nature as to again necessitate steps being taken by our Government for their suppression. It was in this year that a daring act of piracy took place in the south of this particular state, namely in the Jugra river. It was so serious in its nature that it will be remembered in the peninsula for many years to come. So swift, however, was the punishment enforced, and so salutary the lesson taught, that it is gratifying to know that a complete check was placed upon any further attempts for the time being. Various other acts of piracy had occurred just prior to this, notably in the Laroot river, as wiU be described, the Laroot pirates being routed, and their vessels and stockades destroyed by H.M.S. Midge and Thalia, while other stockades were finally razed in Perak, and a more reputable state of aflfairs assured.
In the case of the Jugra piracy, which, as will be
THE JUQBA PIRACY. 283
told in tlic. words of the sole survivor wlio escaped, as given in a minute of the court, the perpetrators were afterwards recognised and were cleverly taken l^y the authorities of Malacca ; and it was at first intended to try, and punish them in one of our own courts ; hut Sir Andrew Clarke, receiving an offer from the Viceroy of Salangore, and probably believing in the effect it would produce, decided that the criminals should be tried by the native court, at the very place where the act of piracy was committed. In this case the writer was employed as joint Commissioner with Mr.' Davidson.
At the trial the charge against the eight pirates was that they had plundered a boat at or near the mouth of the river Jugra, and murdered eight men, being the passengers and crew. The court was com- posed of the Viceroy of Salangore, with three Native Commissioners appointed by the Sultan, while the two English Commissioners watched the proceedings. The sitting of the court took place at a stockade.
The survivor then gave his evidence, which, in addition to its peculiarity as a sample of a statement in a native Malay court, is interesting for the insight it gives into the habits and customs of the boatmen on the rivers and coast :
I live at Tranquerra, in Malacca, and am a seafaring man ; I left Langat on the 25th of the month of Poasah, in a naddy (boat) belong- ing to Malacca ; there were three Chinese passengers, whose names I do not know, and six Malays belonging to the boat, named Hadjee
284 "SARONG" AXD '' KRiS."
l^ominan, >vho wan tlic iiacodnli (rtkipi>er), Ah Kim, Tiimb Itam, Mumaii, Mainlti, ami myself. The iiaiUly was loaded Avith ratUms ; there were also boxes. There were 2000 dollars on boanl, Wlonging to Ah Kim, of Liingat, and the nacodah. I assisted to bring tho dollars on board the boat, and the nacodah told me there were 2000 dollars. "NVe left Bandar Langat about six o'clock a.m. ; wo arrived here (the stockade at the mouth) about one o'clock, and showed our pass to Arsat, wlio was in charge of the stockade. We went outside the river about a mile and anchored, because tho wind ■\va.s against us. "We anchored about three o'clock ; the nacodah told us to rest, and we would sail at night. About tlirec o'clock, the juragan called the crew to boil rice. We cooked rice, and about five o'clock I .saw two boats coming out of this river. I asked tho juragan what l)oats they were, and he said two friendly l>oati from tho stockade. They pulled up near u.s, and Doraraan asked whcro they were going, and the reply was, tliey were going to fish. Musa replied from the boats. One of the boats came alongside, and Musa and three or four others came on board. The other boat came alongside on the other side. [ There were about twenty men on the two boats.] They talked to Doraman. About six o'clock Doraman told us to bring the rice. "When he was about to begin eating, shuts were fired from both boats. Doraman fell to the shots. Musa then called out to " amok." Three of our people jumjicd into the water and were stabbed, and all the others in my boat were also stabbed and killed. I jumped into the water, hung on to the rudder, and after dark floated away to the shore : when I floated away the tlireo boats were still together in the same place. I floated to the piles of this jetty and got hold of one. There was a Bugis boat lying about three fathoms ofi". I held on to tho pile about an hour, and the pirates came in their own boats, bringing Doraman's boat with them. One man came out from the stockade on to the jetty and asked " Sudah habisi" (Is it all overl). From the boats a man replied " Sudah habis " (It is all over). " AVo are taking the property to Tunku .(Vllang." They all went up the river with their boats and my boat. The two boats returned in about an hour without mine. They all came up on this jetty. People from the stockade asked if it was finished, and they said it was all finished. After all was quiet here, I went to the Bugis boat and asked them to assist me, and they
THE JUG II A riEACY. 285
took 1110 into tlioir luial. Tlio Ihij^'is asked nie wlioso boat it -was, ami I told tliom Doranian's. Tho J5ugis advisinl inc. not to say anything about tlio aflair here or I would be, killed. A\'hcn I was speaking to the Hugis the people from the stockade canu; and asked them for me. The ]>ugis refusiid to give me up, but said they would show mo next morning. All the prisoners were in the boats that attacked us. It was daylight, and I could see them (juite Avell, No. 1 shot the juragan. Xo. 2 came into the boat and shot and stabbed people. iS^o. 3 remained in his own boat and had a spear. !No. 4 came into oiu- boat and stabbed Tainb Itam. Xo. 5 Avas in liis own boat, he had a spear and stabbed people in the water. Ko. G came into our boat and stabbed ]\Ieman and others. Xo. 7 remained in his own boat and had a sj^ear and assisted to stab my friends in the water. Xo. 8 was in one of the boats, and I did not see him do anything.
The next day the Bugis took mc on the jetty, and showed me to the headman of the stockade, named Marsat. All the prisoners were present with jNIarsat at the time. Xos. 1 anil 4 asked the Bugis to give me up, but the Bugis refused. I saw on the jetty the boxes of many of my friends, also bags belonging to the boat scat- tered about, and met also two muskets belonging to my boat, and one spear and a sword. The Bugis then took me up to Langat to the Yam Tuan, Avho was asleep, and then they took me up to the Datu Bandar. He asked me if I knew the men who had done it. I said I did. He then asked me Avhere they belonged to, and I said to the stockade. He then said to me : If you are asked, say you do not know who did it ; if you say you know them you will be killed. After this the Bugis took me back to the Yam Tuan, and I told him all that had occurred. He then asked me if I knew the people who had done it, and I said no, as I Avas afraid of being- killed. When I Avas speaking to the Yam Tuan Xo. 1 and Xo. 4 came in and said : AYe want this man (pointing to me) ; Tunku AUang Avants to take him to the Qualla. Yam Tuan told me to go Avith them. I said I Avas afraid. Yam Tuan said if I Avas afraid they had better let me go to Mahomed Syed's shop. ^Mahomed Syed was present, and I was given up to him.- Mahomed Syed sent a letter by Belal Ismain to my uncle Mamoot at Malacca. My nncle arrived at Langat from ]\Ialacca on the 27th of the month of Poasah, and the same day I left Langat Avith my uncle. "When I
286 "SARONG" AND *' KRlS."
was Icavinfi I saw our iMmt at Quolla Sungio Diirien, in tlii« river ; no one w.is (jn hoard, (^ualla iSungi<j I )urifn is 1'unku Allang's place.
About twenty days after my arrival at Malacca I was on the bridge at Malacca, and saw two boats coming up the river, and saw some of the prisoners in tho boats. I reported to Mr. Hayward, and I went witli Duffadar Mahomed, and pointed out Nos. 1, 2, and 3, and Mahomed arrest^.-il thc-ni in their buats. Two days after that I saw another boat coming into Malacca, and reported it to Mr. Hayward ; ho ordered Mr. Warnc to arrest, and I went and pointed out Xos. 4, 5, 7, and 8, and they wore arrested. No. G was arrested at Ujong Kubu, in Malacca.
In tho boat where Nos. 1, 2, and 3 were arrested wo found a musket, a sword, and a spear, which belonged to Doraman, and were in his boat when she was plundered.
In the boat where Nos. 4, 5, 7, and 8 were arrested were found an anchor and a sarong. The anchor belonged to .AJlang, but was on board the uaddy when she was plundered. The sarong belonged to Meman.
[Tho gun, sword, and sarong are produced, and identified by the witness.]
Two days ago I went up the Langat river in one of the man-of- war's boats, and saw Doraman's boat inside the Sungie Durieu. It was tied to the mangroves as if hidden. There was a house on shore near the place ; it belongs to Tunku Allang. The naddy was then brought down the river, and is here now. This is the naddy. After coming down with the naddy, I came on shore here, and found a water-cask in this stockade belonging t© the naddy, and which was on board when it was plundered.
The case la.sted three days, a great deal of corro- borative evidence being given, sufficient to prove the facts without doubt ; and finally the eight prisoners were all found guilty of piracy and murder of the eight British subjects, and seven were condemned to be executed on the following day ; sentence upon one being suspended on account of his youth.
AN EXECUTION. 287
The execution by the kris is carried out in a very- solemn manner, by men specially appointed to perform the duty. As a rule, execution is immediate upon sentence, but in this case it was deferred as above. Mention of the execution kris has already been made, as being perfectly straight and narrow in the blade ; the one mentioned being kept in a sheath of gold.
Early on the morning of the appointed day an armed guard of seamen and marines was landed from Her Majesty's ships, and marched out to a rising ground behind the stockade where the trial had taken place. Some followers of the Viceroy were also in attendance with the executioner, the kris for the purpose having been sent down during the night by the Sultan : this weapon always being in the custody of the ruler of the country, who alone has the power of life and death.
The prisoners offered not the slightest opposition, their fatalist relioion making them behave with a calm stoicism, as they placed themselves kneeling with their heads turned from the executioner. This latter official places then a small pad of cotton on the left shoulder to prevent the effusion of blood ; pass- ing the point of the kris through this he waits for a given signal, upon receiving which, one thrust in a slanting direction sends the blade into the criminal's heart, and death follows almost instantaneously, when the kris is drawn back nearly bloodless through the pad.
''SARONG" AND '' KRlS."
As soon a.s (loath had onsued, and eacli body was stretched out, the executioner made two or three brisk steps over and around it, the object of tliis custom being to drive away the evil spirits who might be hovering round, seeking to prevent the soul from ascending to the paradise of Allah. Generally the criminals executed are l)uried on the spot, a grave being previously prepared ; but in this case the bodies were at once removed by the relatives, to be interred on a point of land higher up the river ; while the Viceroy had a notice-board put up that in future this spot should be called " The Place of Execution."
After this it devolved upon the Commissioners to consider the amount of compensation that should be demanded of the Sultan of Salangore, whose people had committed this act of piracy, and taken the lives of eight British subjects, natives of jMalacca ; and after due consideration, a note was despatched to him, announrini]: the decision as being a demand for five thousand dollars, or its equivalent in slabs of tin, and requiring also that this compensation should be at once placed on board one of her ^Majesty's ships lying off the Sultiin's residence at Langat.
Very little time was wasted, for the lesson read of British power and determination to put d(jwn piracy was severe enough to insure immediate compliance. In effect, the i)iratical boat was handed over and taken off in tow to Malacca by H.lM.iS. Rinaldo, and the Commissioners received a note fiom the
A LITTLE GAME. 289
Sultan, informing tlicm that two hundred and eighty- six slabs of tin (about seven tons) had been placed on board II. M.S. Midge ; and the next day, in company with the Viceroy, the Commissioners visited other places in search of piratical haunts, and during their investicjations warninejs were issued which had due effect.
But to show how indifferent the Malay, in his half- civilised state, is to the commission of piracy at' sea, w^hich he seems to look upon as his own proper poach- ing-ground, a circumstance may be mentioned which occurred at Langat just prior to the trial and execu- tion that have been recorded. Our Admiral had an interview with the Sultan, who w^as surrounded by his chiefs and people, and in as much state as he was capable of showing. The Admiral, in referring to the barbarity of the Jugra piracy, advised and urged upon the Sultan to caution his people against being guilty of such acts in future, pointing out how it was impos- sible that they could be left unpunished, as in the interests of the Settlements, as well as the native states, our Government was determined upon putting down the custom.
The Sultan listened very attentively, and then turning quickly round to his people, he exclaimed : Dungar lah, jangan Jcitah main main lagi ! — " Hear now, my people ! Don't let us have any more of this little game !"
CHAPTER XXVI.
Titles of chiefs— Taxation and tolls— The Sultan's slaves — Sultanas — Court observances — The royal family — Ancient descent — Vanity and superstition — A Malay document.
Prior to the occupation of the country by the British forces, the government of Perak embraced a Sultan elected from the princes of the royal blood of the reigning house ; the Rajah Muda, or heir apparent ; with four offic3rs of the first rank, eight of the second, and sixteen of the third.
The proper signification, by the way, of this title, " Rajah," is a person over whose actions no one has any control. He is one, too, who is exempt from having to obey certain laws in the Malay code, and hence his power is of a very extended nature, and can be largely exercised for the good or evil of the people. So great is the power, in fact, of the native chiefs, that one of the ex-Sultans, in correspondence with the Governor of the Straits Settlements expressed his sorrow for certain crimes committed by the chiefs, and owned that his control over them was next to nothing, for they did what they pleased.
TITLES OF CHIEFS. 291
The chiefs of the first rank were —
I. — Tho Kajaii JJandahaha, who was the Sultan's chief execu- tive officer, miuister, lawgiver, and ruler over tho peasantry, llis powers were very great, liis sway extending over the extreme limits of tho kingdom.
II. — The OiiANG Kaya Uusar, the keeper of the Sultan's privy purse.
III. — The TuMONGONG, or chief magistrate, preventer of oppres- sion, and punisher of transgressors. This officer's place of honour in ijrocession was at the liead of the Sultan's elephant.
IV. — The ]\IuxTRr, or chief adviser of the Sultan.
In the second rank —
I. — The Maharajah Lblah, who was the commander of the land and sea forces.
II. — The Laksamana, avIio was high admiral, his jirau always taking the lead of the ff.eet. The Sultan's zenana was also under his charge when ashore ; Avhile in procession the Laksamana's post was by the Sultan's palanquin, or he bore his sword after him when riding in state upon an elejihant.
III. — The Shahbaxdar, or harbour and custom-house master.
IV. — The Sedika Rajah.
V. — The Panglima Kinta, who had charge of the regalia and the district on the left bank of the river.
VI. — The Panglima Bukit Gantang, the high district officer of the right bank of the river.
VII. — The Datu Sagor, the head of the river boats and navigation; and
VIII. — The Imaji Paduka Tuax, or chief priest.
In the third rank were —
The Sree Maharajah Lelah ; and The Datu Mata-^Iata.
The others held offices of but little moment.
u 2
292 "SARONG'* AND '' KBlS."
The subject of slavery was treated of pretty fully in a previous chapter, but the relations between the Sultan and his l)ond-servants was left to be dealt with under the question of Government. Here, no doubt, is the source of the whole evil, for the example set in high places has been eagerly followed by the chiefs, while their dependants in turn have gladly taken, in bygone ages, to a system that was aggrandising to a degree. The government under the late Sultan being arbitrary and despotic, and having but little control over the many chiefs, these latter have been as tyrannical and freebooting as the barons of the Rhine, or those of our own land in the days of IMagna Charta John ; but without making the slightest effort to benefit anyone but themselves. Their sole thought seems to have been to enrich themselves as rapidly as possible at the expense of the poor toilers in the field ; and consequently every chief picked out a snug and convenient spot upon some reach of the river, and built himself a bamboo castle, with an attap roof, where he could sit in wait for ever}' boat-load of produce coming up and down the stream, and by means of his followers levy black-mail, or help himself to the booty of the industrious bees, who, though they carried dangerous stings in the shape of krises, dared not use them against their more powerful, hornet-like oppressors. Tin, salt, fish, rice, fruit, anything would do for the chief so long as the quality was good and the quantity large ; in fact, the unfortunate ryot
TAXATION AND TOLLS. 293
seemed born to be oppressed, and oppressed lie was, till his time for Avorking had ceased to be. If he could be charged with some trivial offence he was fined ; and when this levying of black -mail failed to provide sufficient for the wants of the chief, lawful indulgences were converted into offences, and the wretched people were compelled to pay for such absurd things as wcfiring a sarong a few inches too long or too short. In fact, nothing was considered too trivial by the ruling wolves who wished to prove that their subser- vient larnbs had sullied the water flowing at their noble feet. Under such a government, as was most natural, every form of abuse and oppression was prac- tised ; and the only resource for the people was to connect themselves with the most arbitrary and powerful of the chieftains, so as to be robbed by one and one only, instead of having to submit to an indis- criminate oppression from the chiefs at large — who, fortunately for the poorer classes, were extremely jealous one of another.
The consequence of this state of things was that, naturally objecting to labour, the Malays grew thoroughly averse to every kind of work, caring little for doing more than providing for their simplest wants. It was no advantage to a man to cultivate a goodly piece of land, and raise crops that were not for his own eating ; to grow fruits that were absorbed by Sultan or chief and their numerous followings ; or to become the possessor of buffaloes that might be seized any day
294 ''SARONG" AND " KlilS."
to draw the properties of his lord. All this has had much to do with tlio careless state into which the Malay has fallcD, and it requires a good and Siife government, with the protection of wise and just laws, properly carried out, to make the people take to the industrious life that means prosperity to his country.
This industry could not be expected where one chief levied a royalty of five dollars a coyan on rice, another sixteen dollars — tariffs being apparently regulated at the pleasure of the chief. These taxes were nominally levied for the benefit of the Sultan, who was supposed to obtain eleven doUai-s on every bhar" of tin, but he never received more than six. Then private owners of mines, though often imaginary beings, were suffi- ciently substantial in some form or another to levy their tax of ten dollars a bhar, making a total impost of twenty-one dollars — a sum which, as the late Mr. Birch said, no tin could pay. Tin and rice were only examples of the treatment of other articles of produce. In his own place, says the same gentleman, every chief took something. "At the Qualla Kinta " (or mouth of the Kinta) "the Bandahara sublets to the Rajah Makota a farm of extra customs-duties on every import and export, thus making the minera and inhabitants on that river pay at least double the amount paid by all other people in the countr}-." . . .
* Coyan, about two tons ; Bbar, about three and a half hundredweight.
THE SULTAN'S SLAVES. 295
" At Sengang, wlicrc Rajah Yusuf lived, be used to stop every boat up or down, and levy one-tenth of every- thing, but ho has lately given this up." Higher up the river, where the Scdika Rajah resided, they levied again a tenth on all imports and exports.
But in addition to all these oppressive levies of taxes, the inhabitants suffered from a system of forced labour, each male having to render to his chief a fourth of his year of labour, and to turn out to assist him in time of tumult or war.
Many of these oppressions have, through the efforts of the Residents, been ameliorated, but there is still this terrible custom of debt-slavery ; and the chiefs, having the means and great power in the state, are always able to make the wretched people appear, in some form or another, in their debt. As this debt can rarely be liquidated, the unfortunate ryot is, as before shown, bound over with his family to serve the chief, sinking calmly into his wretched state of servi- tude and suffering with all the customaiy patience of the eastern believer in Kismet — fate. If the debt be liquidated, it is generally only for the family to change hands, and become the slaves of a new proprietor : it is to be hoped — though this is very doubtful — for the bettering of their condition.
The Sultan's slaves who are about his palace were acquired in an exceedingly simple manner — in a way, in fact, that thoroughly exemplifies the old-fashioned dealing of the eastern potentate, who, however, in this
2UG "SARONO" AND "KRlS."
case, is but a petty sultan or rajah, living in no gorgeous Aladdin-like palace, but in such a home as Mr. liirch describes as that of Sultan Abdullah at Batarabit, where **the house compound is a most un- wholesome swamp of green stagnant water, and the paths and streets sloughs of slippery mud." It was not surprising that this Sultan preferred to live on the river in boats.
When one of these rulers took a fancy to a slave, his custom was to send a messenger with his sword or kris to the house where the poor girl lived, and how- ever much the parents might grieve at the loss of their child, the despot's command, as represented by the sword, was a law that no inferior thought of re- sistinsf. It was another case of kismet — the command of royalty — and the maiden was humed off to the zenana, where she might in time attain to the high dignity of using a pestle and mortar to pound betel mixture for her lord to chew, if, like Abdullah, he were not a confirmed smoker of opium, and a reveller in the drugged drams that turn so many of these eastern rajahs into weak, mentally incapable rulers of the fair country that is at their feet.
The life of these sultanas is not an enviable one ; for though there is no bowstring in force for refractory or unfaithful ones, and no Bosphorus with saline tide, yet there are plenty of rivers, and, as has been shown, a very rugged and cruel drowning for the slave who dares to rise in spirit against her lord But these are
6
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COURT OBSEEV^LNCES.
297
necessarily only the exceptional cases ; for, as a rule, the slave-giii's lot is to be kindly treated, while in old age the Sultan or chief is bound in very shame to provide for her sustenance and clothing.
The observances in a Malay court are, as may be supposed, very strict, and the points of etiquette care- fully studied and observed. Thus it was stated that the Tumongong and Laksamana have certain places by the Sultan's elephant. The Muntri has also to take his place at the head of his litter, and in the illustra- tion given of Sultan Abdullah and his court, the various chiefs and officers are seen in their correct positions, according to rank and station, as they w^ere placed for the taking of the photograph. The sword- bearers carry these weapons of state, and they are held, quite according to etiquette, upon the right shoulder. In this case the Sultan is seated on a chair, and as is always observed, no other chief can take such a seat unless it is of a lower level than that of his lord, and consequently they all sit or crouch upon their hams. Quite a difficulty occurred on board one of our vessels, when a Sultan and his officers paid a visit, the Muntri refusing to take a chair on account of one being already occupied by his chief. Indeed, ]\Ir. AVallace gives an amusing instance of this Malay stickling for pride of place, in an anecdote that he relates of the chief of one of the islands he visited. This gentleman had a great love of European customs, and had gone so far as to order a carriage from England for his own
m
I
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COURT 0BSERVAN0E8. 297
necessarily only the exceptional cases ; for, as a rule, the slave-girl's lot is to be kindly treated, while in old age the Sultan or chief is bound in very shame to provide for her sustenance and clothing.
The observances in a Malay court are, as may be supposed, very strict, and the points of etiquette care- fully studied and observed. Thus it was stated that the Tumongong and Laksamana have certain places by the Sultan's elephant. The Muntri has also to take his place at the head of his litter, and in the illustra- tion given of Sultan Abdullah and his court, the various chiefs and officers are seen in their correct positions, according to rank and station, as they were placed for the taking of the photograph. The sword- bearers carry these weapons of state, and they are held, quite according to etiquette, upon the right shoulder. In this case the Sultan is seated on a chair, and as is always observed, no other chief can take such a seat nnless it is of a lower level than that of his lord, and consequently they all sit or crouch upon their hams. Quite a difficulty occurred on board one of our vessels, when a Sultan and his officers paid a visit, the Muntri refusing to take a chair on account of one being already occupied by his chief. Indeed, Mr. Wallace gives an amusing instance of this Malay stickling for pride of place, in an anecdote that he relates of the chief of one of the islands he visited. This gentleman had a great love of European customs, and had gone so far as to order a carriage from England for his own
298 **SAJ10N0" AND ** KRlS."
use. Unfortunately, however, the vehicle had to be condemned on account of a fn-eat failing in its con- struction ; for, had it been made use of, the coachman or driver would have occupied a higher seat than his master, and in the code of Malayan etiquette such things could not be. In fact, sitting on the ground or standing is the attitude of respect.
Even in such a small matter as colour, the Malay is excessively particular as to his tlress, the tint of his umbrella, and the envelopes he uses to send his Arabic written letters. The royal colour, as intimated, is yellow, and the envelopes used by the Sultan are always of this colour, and composed of silk.
When a Malay meets a European a polite salutation is accorded to him, and it mostly consists of the words Tahik, Tuan — "I salute you, sii*; " but among them- selves it is " Peace be with you !" the reply being, "And to you also." The etiquette aa to the kris-handle will be remembered, as necessitating its being kept covered, and these points, along with all those relating to the due respect to be rendered to the various chiefs, the shape and style, colour and arrangement of garments, are rigorously kept up in the states at a distance from the European settlements. One of the most striking things, though, with respect to court observances, is the amount of superstitious veneration that exists for the person of the sovereign. To shed royal blood would evoke for the Malay, according to his ideas, a train of punishment which, in his superstitious awe.
THE JIOYAL FAMILY. 299
lie coiiltl not contemplate without a sliudder ; and in consequence the person of the monarch is perfectly safe, while the halo of his sanctity spreads around and illumines all his relatives present and, what is more, is reflected straight away down " the corridors of time '* to come ; for every one who claims descent from royalty enjoys also this immunity from danger at the hands of a people who might be ready to resent an injury by the use of the kris.
The royal family of Perak, like most of those in the native states of the peninsula, traces its origin with the greatest care from the royal family of Menang Kabau, or Kabowe, as it is variously spelled. The chief city of this state is called by some writers Paggar-oodong, or Battang Selo, probably the Paggar- ooyoong of Marsden, the writer on Sumatra ; and the chief founder was Maha Raja de Raja, supposed to be a great-grandson of Mahomet. The late dynasty in Perak in more modern times is referred back to Sultan Mahomed Bansoo, who had issue by a former rajah's daughter — Rajah Eenoo, who married a daughter of Sultan Mahomed Muda, who had issue Rajah Cholam, who came to the throne of Perak as Sultan Mahomed Sapi. Rajah Cholam married a daughter of Rajah Kassim.
Sultan Mahomed Bansoo had also issue by four concubines, one being named Rajah Mundo Beeso, the second. Rajah Manda; the third, Mahomed Kusso; and the fourth, Mahomed Saboot.
300 "SARONG" AND ''KRlS."
We read in Moor's " Notices " that tliere were two chiefs at Mciianp^ Kabaii under a certain Ilajah Allam, who, though biouglit up in all the learning of the age, gave himself up to vicious pursuits. Hence he was seldom called upon to exercise his authority, which was vested in the two chiefs. These were a Rajah Addat, or rajah judging over cases of laws and custom ; and a Rajah Ebaddat, or judge of cases of sacred appeal. They originally formed members of the Paggar-ooyoong house, and though from length of time relationship cannot be traced, yet the depen- dence is claimed and admitted on all sides ; and as the Rajah Allam can only marry in one of these families, and those of the Eaug ampat selo, a proper under- standinc: and subordination still exist.
The chiefs under the Rajah AUam were Bang duo selo, and these resided at Soompoo Coodoos, now called Lintow, of which Bangsa and Boohoo are the principal cities.
Next in rank to tliese are the Eang ampat selo, whose orii^in is altoixothcr faljulous. Their names or titles are Bandahara of Soong}*e Tarn, Mangcoodoom of Si Maneea, Endomo of Sooroowassa, and Caleea of Padanfj Gunteeanor. Of these four the Bandahara is the principal chief, and is never called upon for per- sonal service when the Rajah Allam moves, while the remaining three, distinguished by the denomination of Eang tega selo, accompany and attend upon the Rajah Allam in all his processions and travels, each of
VANITY AND SUPERSTITION. 301
these posseasiiii^ a large extent of territory, and a numerous body of dependants.
The grand assembly of the nation was formed of the six Selo, and all matters of judgment or policy were settled by them. The Duo selo had casting votes according to whether the case was secular or ecclesias- tical ; but final reference or appeal could be made to the Eajali Allam.
Tradition carries the Perak royal family safely back so far ; but not content with that, they are, from their vanity and great love of antiquity of families, fond of trying to trace their descent to Mahomet, when, instead of being interesting, their account only tends to amuse, and reminds the listener of the account given by Dalton of the Sultan of Coti in the Island of Borneo. This great potentate was the chief of a large district in the south-east of that island, and his genealogical tree was written in these words, in the Koran of the Kragi of Tongarron, his chief city, by Nabbee Ahmet, who came dowTi from heaven on purpose to perform this duty for the Sultan, who was one of the most barbarous head-hunters of that notorious land.
Soon after the great prophet Mahomet ascended into heaven from Mecca, his second and favourite brother, whose name "was hkewise ]\Iahomet, dreamed that the prophet appeared to him in the shape of a comet, inviting him forth to preach the true doc- trine. He accordingly arose, and embarked on board a ship with some chosen foEowers. They had no occasion for compass or sails, as the comet kept before the vessel, and the "wiiid favoured them.
802 "SARONG" AND " KRJS."
After being on the ocean one year, during which j)frio<l no land •was seen, a country was descried in the west, over which the comet remained stationary. This was Coti. Mahomet landed at a place now called Cincnln'am, when he fell asleep, and his hixjther again ai)lifareil hefore him, standing upon the mountain lialoj Piij>ati'/. "With a loud voice he ordered a kingdom to Ijc founded, and a capital built, which should be considered second only to Mecca. The prophet disapjwared after leaving the Koran, %vritten by a celestial hand. On awaking, Mahomet found himself in another part of the country, where he built the capital, calling it Ton- garron, after the name of the ship Avhich brought them safe. Here it was the Koran was first opened by ^rahummud Sali Ilooden, the first Sultan, who, after reigning forty-seven years, was taken up to heaven in a flash of lightning, since wliich period the family has given a succession of Sultans to Coti.
These facts the Sultan and his priest say are kno^vn throughout the world, and acknowledged by all rajahs in India, who formerly paid tribute. He has no superior or equal except the Sultan of Turkey.
This peculiar form of vanity runs strongly through the whole family of Malay sultans, whose titles and epithets are in some cases as extraordinaiy as they are absurd. Those of Menang Kabau excel in this <lircction, as the following copy of a warrant from that place will abundantly show. The extract is from ]\Iarsden, and in tlie original it commences with tlu-ee chops in the Arabic character. A chop, it may be necessary to inform some readera, is a seal in these eastern lands, though very frequently it is adopted to Bicrnifv the trade-mark of some larerc commercial firm in China. The cliop of a Malay sultan is generally about a couple of inches across, is formed of silver, engraved with ^Vi-abic characters, and is afiixed at
A MALAY DOCUMENT. 803
the beginning of a document, the impression being made, not with sealing-wax, but with Indian ink, pretty liberally applied.
Here is the document, Avhicli was sent to a high priest :
(Three circular seals with those inscriptions in Arabic characters.)
(Eldest Brother) (Second Brother)
Sultan of Rome Sultan of China
Key Dummool Allam Nour Allum
Maharaja Alliff. Maharaja Dempeng.
(Youngest Brother)
Sultan of Mcnang Cabow *
Aour Allum
Mahai-aja de Raja.
The Sultan of Menang Cabow, wliose residence is at Paggar ooyoong (after pardon asked for presuming to mention his name), ■who is king of kings, son of Eajah Izounderzulcar-nainny, and was possessed of Muncooto, who was brought from heaven by the prophet Adam ; master of the third of the wood maccummat, one of Avhose properties is to enable matter to fly ; of the lance ornamented with the beard of Jangee, of the palace of the city of -Rome, whose entertainments and diversions are exhibited in the month of Dul-hadjee, and where all Alims, Pukkeeahs (faquii's), and Moulahnocarrees, praise and supplicate God ; of the gold of twelve grains named coodarat coodarattee, resembling a man ; who receives his taxes in gold by the lessong (quasi bushel) measure ; whose betel-stand 'Ss of gold set with diamonds ; who is possessed of the sword named Chooree-se-mendong-geree, which has an hundred and ninety gaps, made in the conflict "with the arch-deATl Se-cattee- moono, whom it slew ; who is master of fresh water in the ocean to the extent of a day's sailing ; possessed of a lance formed of a
* Supposed to be derived from tvro Malay Tvords : Menang, to vriu, and Kdhan, a buffalo; from a fabulous story of a fight between tigers aud buffaloes, in which the latter obtained the victory.
804 '\SABONG" AND '' KlilS."
twig of c«ljoo ; of a calcwang wrapped in an unmade chinday ; of a crease formed of tliu soul of steel, wliicli by a noise cxpressea an unwillingness at l^ing sheathed, and shows itaelf pleased when drawn ; of a date coeval with the Creation ; ])os8e88od of a gun brought from heaven named Soubahanahououatanalla ; of a horse of the race of sorimborahnee, superior to all others ; sultan of the burning mountain, and of the mountains Goontang-goontang, which divide Palembang and Jaml^ee ; who may slay at pleasure, without being guilty of a crime ; who in possessed of the elephant named fSettee-dewa ; who is vicegerent of heaven ; sultan of the golden river ; lord of the air and clouds ; master of a balli, whose pillars arc of the shrub jelattang ; of gandangs (drums) made of hollowed branches of the minute shrubs pooloot and seelo- Boorec ; of the gong that resounds to the skies ; of the bi^alo named Se Binnooang Sattce, whose horns are ten feet asunder ; of the unconiiuered cock Sengoonannee ; of the coco-nut tree, whoso amazing height, and being infested with serpents and other noxious reptiles, render it impossible to be climbed ; of the flower named Seeree menjeree of ambrosial scent ; who when he goes to sleep wakes not till the gandang nobat sounds ; one of whose eyes is
as the sun, and the other as the moon To his subjects declares
this his will, <S:c. &c.
In another communication to Mr. Marsden by Mr. Dalrymple, the same exaggerated language is taken up to show the antiquity of the royal family of Me- nang Kabau : God gave to Gaggar ^Vllum, who had his residence in the clouds, " a bird allied ' Hocinet,' that had the gift of speech. This he sent down on earth to look out for a spot where he might establish an inhe- ritance, and the first place he alighted upon was the fertile island of Lancapore, situated between Palimban and Jambee ; and from thence sprang the famous kingdom of Manancabou, which will be renowned and mighty until the Judgment Day."
MALAY DOCUMENTS. 305
When all tliat is worthless and fabulous in these documents is sifted out, there are, however, several grains of common-sense left behind ; inasmuch as one can at least gather from the writings, their style, their allusions, and their use of so many Sanscrit, Persian, and Arabic terms, that tho Malays must in early times Lave had most extensive dealings with the peoples by whom these several languages were spoken.
CHAPTER XXVII.
The Malay language— Its origin — Connection with Arabic —Ehymea and poctr3% proverbs and fiayings — Love songs — Litcratare — Qnaintncss of expression — Letter-writing — A Malay interpreter.
The Malay language would present a very interesting study to the philologist ; for, so far from being a bar- barous dialect, it is a soft rich tongue, that has been worthily called the " Italian of the East." This is of course from its tuneful and flowing nature. The "French of the East" would be a more appropriate term, however ; for as with that language a traveller may make his way right through the Continent, so with a good knowledge of the IMalayan tongue a voyager can make liimsclf understood through the whole of that enormous cliain of islands stretching by the equator: beginning with Sumatra, and running right past New Guinea, with the innumerable places north and south. This language, as is commonly, and probably very reasonably, supposed, took its rise in the seat of the ^lalayan nation itself ; for doubtless tradition is quite rifrht in set tin fj this down as Menang Kabau. This district is opposite to Malacca on the peninsula, and divided from it by the straits of that name. It was
TJIE MALAY LANOUAQE. 307
at Mjilacca tluit tlic, Malays of Mcnaug Kabaii first effected a landing, and doubtlc^.ss gave to it tJKi name wliich has been corrupted or altered into the one it now bears. Tlie consequence of tlicir migration was that the Orang Benua, as the aborigines of any country arc called by the Malays, were driven into the fastnesses of the gi'eat jungles and back towards the mountains.
From the fact of the Malayan language being found in the island of Madagascar to the west, and also far away in the many islands of the Pacific, where there is scarcely a spot without its Malay words, some writers have concluded that these people are Poly- nesian in orio^in. Others ao-ain have thought that the Malays once peopled India, and were afterwards driven out into the countries and islands lying to the east of Hindostan, This, however, seems to be quite a fanciful conclusion, for the languages spoken in India show no trace of Malay Avords ; therefore, in looking at the structure and composition of the lan- guage, it is far more reasonable to assume that it naturally had its origin amongst the people who spoke it in the central plains of Sumatra — that is, in or near Menang Kabau, where the Malays have remained less intermixed than in any other part of the peninsula or islands.
AVhen first known to the European, the Malay tongue was considerably leavened with Arabic, Per- sian, and Sanscrit words, evidently due to a long-con- tinued intercourse with the nations speaking those
x2
308 **8AR0Na" AND " KRlS."
languafres, and, as shown in the last chapter, exist- ing very largely in documents and literary works. For instance, the Malays had from the Arabs, along with their religion, such words as related to the faith and laws of Islam ; and these were regularly imported into the language. So great an impress did this make upon the people, that they gave uj) the native charac- ter, in which their language was expressed in ^\Titing, and adopted the Arabic, in which they read the Koran. The Sanscrit and Persian words were pro- bably added to the language by degrees, as the Malays traded with these people : the adoption of certain terms being a natural result.
Being a people who may be said never to have entered on the high road to progressive improvement, their language was never rich, nor did they possess anything worthy the name of literature for which •they w^ere not indebted to the Arabs, Persians, Indians, and Javanese, with the exception of a few works of traditional poetr)', and a set of historical tales, called the " Sejara Malayu " — these being fictions of a highly-exaggerated character.
The nation may be considered as having been at its zenith in the sixteenth century, Avhen Acheen was in its most prosperous state of wealth ; but even then there seems to have been no one sufficiently advanced above the general body of the people to leave any his- torical trace of their progress, or any record to show that cultivation of the habit of thought had had existence.
EHYME8 AND POETRY. 309
More lately, intercourse with western civilisation ;in(l with the Chinese has made its mark upon the Malay tongue l)y enriching it with many additions ; and a more complete dictionary than that which we already possess, both from British and other sources, is greatly to be desired.
It is froni the absence of combinations of conso- nants, and the prevalence of vowels and liquids that the lauo-uafce derives its soft and harmonious effect. Even tlie gutturals of the words introduced from the Arabic become toned down and pleasing when used by the Malays ; and the effect of the harsh Arabic word, when uttered by Malay lips, is very remarkable for the alteration that has been made in its asperities. The purest Malay is said to be spoken at Malacca and Joliore, Perak standing next in the scale ; and those who have heard it spoken by the chiefs of these places will have had no difficulty in arriving at this conclu- sion, the dialect of Perak differing but little from that used in Johore.
Ehymes and poetry are in good favour amongst the people ; and it is no uncommon thing to find amongst them those who are able to act the part of improvisatore, and extemporise stanzas of no mean order. When the writer has been on excursions far away in the interior, with only JMalays for his com- panions, he has often been struck by the aptness of these people in putting the events of the journey or ^ome adventure into verse, and singing it to one of
310 **8AE0Na'* AND *'KBl8r
their plaintive aii-s, keeping up the ditty in a whining mehmcholy way, till they fall off* to sleep. This lovo of poctiy may have been derived from the Arabs, who greatly esteemed such a style of conveying the thoughts, just as they were hjvers of stories, and held in honour the man who was a good narrator. The Malays fol- lowed them in this latter, the extempore speaker or composer of verse being highly esteemed.
An example or two of the style of a Malay poem will not be out of place, as exemplifying the peculiar line of thought taken by these people in their verse ; for, as will l)e seen, the lines take the form of a proverb or aphorism.
Apa goona passang paleeta
Kalo teedah dangau soombooiiia ?
Apa goona bennani luata
Kalo toedali dangan soongoonia 1
"What signilies attempting to light a Lamp
If the wick be wanting ? "NMiat signifies making love Anth the eyes
If nothing in earnest be intended ?
This love of proverbs and ingoniou.s or clever sen- tences is prominent amongst these people, and as was intimated in the chapter on that subject, is included in their amusements. Many of these sayings have been handed do\ni amongst them as traditions in the language, and could an intelligent ^lalay be induced to undertake the duty, a collection would be of great
FB0VEBB8 AND SAYINGS. 311
interest. On such a thing being mentioned to them, liowever, they seem to bo particularly averse to the proceeding, and we can readily understand how it is that so few records of the past exist, when even an account of the visit of a native ruler to England, which was promised at the time, has not yet seen the light.
Here is another extract from the same author, to exemplify the proverbs of the Malays :
Hearing of a person's death they say —
I^en niatee, matee, nen eedoop be-kraja. Kalo sampi-la, janejenia, apa boleh booat 1
Tliose who arc dead arc dead ; those Avho survive must work. If his allotted time was expired, wliat resource is there 1
The "apa boleh booat" is a very frequent expression of the Malay to signify that the matter was inevitable, and is adopted in all cases of accident, death, or mis- fortune. It is, in fact, the saying of the fatalist. It was to be 1 That is enough for the Malay, who shrugs his shoulders and meets death or misfortune with the same calm resigned aspect.
A dictionary of the language was compiled by Mr. Marsden, from whose pen a grammar also emanated. For this latter, however, there is but little need, on account of the extremely simple construction of the tongue ; though it would be the delight of school- boys, and would, in their estimation, compare most favourably with the solemn Latin or sonorous Greek, since the verbs have no conjugation, and the nouns no
312 "SAEONQ" AND "KBiSr
cases. Hence, l>y means of a simple vocabulary, or a dictionary, combined with conversation with the natives, a European may render himself a Malay scholar, and acquire the language sooner than any that is spoken under the sun.
It would be surprising if a people who have held so much intercourse with Arabia and Persia did not possess their amatory poems or songs ; therefore it is in no way astonishing to find verses breatliing tender- ness, and veined in some instances with ti*ue poetic feeling. Amongst the pieces that have been preserved, the following is from Newbold, and however much the reader may object to the author for his bad taste in alluding to the crow eating the young rice, when his native forests teemed with more graceful and pleasing images, nothing can be more poetical than the idea in the two last lines :
Tinggih tinggUi poko lamburi
Sayang puthok-nia incniapu awan
Habis teloh puwas ku cliari Bagei punei mencliari kawan.
Bulan trang, bintang ber chay-ya
Burong Cagali bt-r-makan padi J oka Tuan tiaJa j>er chay-ya,
Bela daJa, luelUiat hatL
TRANSLATIOX.
Lofty, lofty grows the lamburi tree,
Its brauches sweep the clouds; It is over, my search is vain ;
I am like the wild-dove bereft of its mate.
LOVE SONOS. 313
Tlio moon gives lier light, the stars glitter,
'J'lio crow is eating the, young rico ; If my mistress believolli not my faith.
Lay open my bosom and view my heart.
In these days, too, of dra wing-room ballads tliat lire as empty, vapid, and inane — of course, allowing for exceptions — as it is possible for them to be, what can be sweeter than this song from a people whose home is in the far-off jungles of their Eastern land? It is taken from Captain Forest's Voyage, as given in the ** Asiatic Journal" of 1825.
Cold is the wind, the rain falls fast, I linger though the hour is past. Why come you not 1 Whence this delay 1 Have I offended — say 1
INIy heart is sad, and sinking too ; Oh break it not ! it loves but you. Come then, and end this long delay. Why keep you thus away 1
The Avind is cold, fast falls the rain. Yet weeping, chiding, I remain. You come not still, you still delay. Oh ! Avherefore can you stay 1
Amongst the favourite prose literary productions of the Malays are their romances, which they derive from India and Java. From Arabia and Persia naturally come the various treatises on the Koran, and the narrative fictions dealing with history and the demi- gods and heroes of the traditionary past. The
314 ** SARONG" AND **KItlS:'
"Ilikiiyt't Hamz.ih" is one that deals with the exploits of the iiiiclc of Mahomet. The ** Sejara Malayu " is another favourite piece, whicli telLs of the gallant defcuec of ^lalacea by the j\Ialays, when attacked by the Portuguese under Albuquerque, and is intended to rouse them to emulation. The first of these pieces strongly resembles the eastern tales that we have had from the Arabic, only that it is written in a strain of almost greater hyperbole. Chivalr}'- and doughty deeds pervade it throughout, and it is considered one of their greatest compositions.
The " Hikayet Hong Tuah " is said to be of pure Malayan origin, and deals with the romantic adven- tures of a young noble, or Hong, of Malacca. He was a kind of King Arthur of his time ; and, hke other romances, it is listened to with great delight by the Malays. The custom is for these stories to be related by the elders or priests of the villages to admiring circles. The " Hong Tuah " has been praised by some WTiters, condemned by others; but is considered by Newbold to deserve the enthusiastic praise as little as the sweeping censui'c, being only a fair specimen of its class. There are several more of these Hikayets, or compositions — some of which approach the stories of the *' Arabian Nights " in their highly-coloured descriptions ; and among these is the " Hikayet of Isma Yatim," a story of Hindoo origin. This is a capital specimen of pure Malay language, and remark- able for its introduction of Malay customs.
QUAINTNESS OF EXPRESSION. 315
The limguago is not w;intiiig, either, in qu.'iiiit peculiarities, many of wliich are figurative, wliilt- others are terse and to the point ; while in many things they reverse our expressions in a manner that sounds to one unaccustomed to the people highly incongruous. Thus, in speaking of cattle or fish, a Malay will say " so many tail " — not head. A spring will be called an eye of water, and a policeman all eyes. The ankle is the eye of the foot ; the sun the eye of day. Then as to time, they reckon by nights past instead of days ; though this they often judge of by the opening and closing of a flower.
The word soosa, trouble, has been mentioned as very commonly used — in fact, it represents the view taken by the people of anything tending towards their advance. They speak of a friend as a place where you can store your cares and joys ; of a neighbour, as one privileged to come up the ladder of a hut. In praise of a beautiful woman, a common expression is, not that she has a beautiful face, good figure, or small hands or feet, but that she has heels rounded like the eggs of a bird. The following sounds pecu- liar, but it is on consideration very apropos — viz. to speak of the metropolis as the mother of a country, for it really is. Regarding the situation of the Malay peninsula on the globe, they divide all countries as being to windward and leeward. Arabia, Persia, and the like are the former ; their own peninsula, Sumatra, and Siam, the latter.
316 '\SABONO" AND *'KEl8r
It would be out of place liere to give many Malayan words and their meanings, but they are very quaint and original in numerous cases. For instance, the word hungn, meaning a Hower, which is applied in many ways. They will thus speak of interest as the flower of money — the blossom it bears ; of ground-rent as the flower of the ground, and so on. It is, however, in theii* proverbial expressions that the quaintness of the people is most marked. Thus, a cowardly despicable person is called, in allusion to their popular sport — cock-fighting — a duck with spurs. One who is intoxicated is said to mount the green horse. Their proverb with regard to investing, answers to dropping a bucket in the water of a well, and only pulling up the string. When the rain and sunshine come together, they say that some one is coming to a violent end.
There are numbers of similar expressions. They say those who in dry times empty the jar because thunder is heard in the air will probably die of thirst. " Cleai' water cannot be drawn from a muddy foun- tain." " A tiger cannot helji showing his stripes." *' How can a dog s whelp become a civet wxt ? "
Of treacherous people they have sa}'ings such as — Sits like a cat, but leaps like a tiger ; and a capital one of the garrulous person : *" The tortoise produces thousands of errors without anvone knowinfir it ; the hen produces a single egg, and tells all the world."
Letter-"s\Titing is looked upon as a fine art, and the
LETTER-WRITINO. 317
pen used is formed out of the black spike of the gaiuooty palm. Paper envelopes are used by the inferior people, who wafer tliem with lac. It is only in the cases of chiefs or sultans that the yellow silk envelope or bag is used, in which the missive is sewn.
A highly- educated person's letter is according to the most rigid form. The introductory portion of the letter, the seals, folding, paper, envelopes, all are matters to be duly studied, and in many cases really are carefully attended to by the person who writes. In fact, according to Newbold, a Malay letter ought to consist of six distinct parts, namely : A short Arabic sentence ; the chop or seal ; the exordium ; the substance of the letter ; the concluding portion ; and the superscription — for each of which they have special terms. Mingled with the business-like or friendly letter are the terassuh, which are the flowery introductions or interpolations so popular amongst certain people — the "May your shadow never be less" t)'pe of compliment ; though frequently a letter will be accompanied by a pious prayer that Allah may cause the missive to arrive in safety at its destination.
Among the difficulties of the Malay language is that of getting good interpreters — that is to say men who will give a clear, succinct translation of a Malay speech into English, or vice versd, without flowery additions, or rendering the one or the other at the expense of their clearness and perspicuity. Some very amusing passages take place in consequence of
318 "SARONG" AND "KRlS."
the native interpreter's want of knowledge of the weiirlit and value of a word, and the exact senflc in which it is applied. For instiince, in one of the courts, when a case was in process of investigation before an English official, a witness, who was a poor shrimper and shell-fishcrraau, was brought up for ex- amination, when the judge asked :
"What is he?"
InteiU'RETEU (in ^f(^h^l/). AVhat are you ?
Witness (also in Malay). Shrimp-catcher.
Interpreter (importanihj, in Emjlish). He is an npprehender of shrimps, my lord
It is hardly fair, though, to take the natives to account for these mistakes in our language, when it is said that amongst the European residents who have spent their days in the Straits, and the descendants of the old settlers who make their appearance on grand days in dress-suits as antifpiated as the days of George and William IV., blunders of the most humorous nature are perpetrated from forgutfulness or sheer io^norance of our tongue. Of these, one gentleman is credited with having pleaded, in excu.se for not making a longer stay in one of the settlements, that he was only "a bii'd of paradise," when it is to be presumed " passage " was intended.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Ancient history — Menang Kabau — Migrations — Ai*ab associations — Cinnamon — Eai-ly trade in spices — Malays in Madagascai* — The Aurca Chersonese — Opinions of the ancients — Voyagers of the past.
So far but little lias been said respecting the ancient history of the Malay people of Perak ; but they have a history which shows that, in place of being a poor spiritless body of tribes, they have been, from the earliest times, a race whose enterprise has been wide- spreading to a degree.
Crawfurd, in his dictionary of the Indian islands, says in regard to the Malayan state of Perak, that when or how it was founded is unknown — " a mys- tery, like the founding of all the other states of the peninsula."
Doubtless it is involved in obscurity, and very little has come down to us by which we can trace its early history before it became known to Europeans ; but still, some approximation may be made as to its first colonisation by an inquiry into the rise and progress of the Malayan race, which is now dominant there, and in the various native states adjacent.
320 "SARONG" AND '' KBlS."
Now, this race, which is «it the present day so widely scattered over the Eastern archipelago that they may be found in the great majority of the islands, while in the others there is frequently a trace of Malay occupation, is believed by some writers to have first had its origin on the Malabar coast of the continent of India ; others, again, who class the Malay as a branch of the great ^longolian or Tartar race, consider that they gradually progressed southward, peopling first the peninsula, and then extending gradually through the many islands of the eastern group. Others, and among these not a few who have visited Sumatra, Java, and other islands of the archi- pelago, and, better still for observation, resided for a long time amongst the peoj^le themselves, favour the theory adopted by the higher-class Malays — that their parent state was Menang Kabau.
In the sequel we shall see that the views of the last portion of theorists' appear to be most consonant with the past history of the race, who, occuppng this portion of the earth's surfiice from extremely early ages, migrated across the Indian ocean, conveying the productions peculiar to their country, while ever looking to Sumatra as their original home, and to the district of Menang Kabau on that island as the seat of their ancient power. Crawfurd, who is perhaps our l)est authority, says that this district is eminently favourable for the development of an early civilisation.
In these early migrations, possible enough to a
ANCIENT HISTORY. 321
maritime people whose vessels were imposing, and ^\■\\o had by experience learned the ease with which a voyage across the Indian ocean could be made, and its return secured by taking advantage of the monsoons, which robbed that voyage of the dread felt by the early navigators that they might never be able to return, the Malays became closely associated with the Arabs, whose connection is so strongly marked in religion and custom to this day ; and, consequently, it will be quite in keeping with the character of this work to endeavour to trace out the early intimacy of this latter nation with the countries of the east. In this we are much aided by an examination of the products which the Arabs appear to have been the first to import westward.
About sixteen hundred years before the Christian era we find in Holy AVrit that cinnamon was one of the ingredients used in preparing the anointing oil. Now, this cinnamon, or rather kiunamon, is the pecu- liar growth of India, Ceylon, and the Eastern archi- pelago ; and Herodotus, writing about twelve hundred years later, says Kitto, "describes Arabia as the last inhabited country towards the south, and as the only region of the earth which produces frankincense, myrrh, cinnamon, cassia, and ledanium ; and, as to cinnamon, he says : ' Which we, as instructed by the Phoenicians, call kinnamon.' Herodotus, moreover, states that the Arabians were unacquainted with the particular spot in which it was produced, but that
322 "SARONG" AND '' KBlS."
some asserted it grew in the region where Bacchus was educated. From all this we can only infer that it was the product of a distant country — probably India — and that it was obtained by the route of the Ked sea."
There appear to have been two kinds of this spice known to the ancients — and even to the present day — as cassia and cinnamon ; the former being a coarser product, and known in the Hebrew ;is kicUlcth ; and the latter as Tdnnamon, probably derived, according to Kitto, from the cacyn-nama — didce-Uynum of the Cingalese — or the Malayan hayoo-manis. It is true that cinnamon is now known to the Malays as koolit-nianis, or sweet skin ; but this designation is more probably of later date, as in contrast to kayoo-manisy or sweet-wood ; and these people still have the kayoo-jmit, or bitter- wood. The name given to cassia by the Hebrews as kiddaJi is not so easy to determine ; for though it may have grown in the country of Keddah, or Quedah, and been obtiiincd originally from thence, it would rather appear that the state of Keddah takes its name from one given by the Malays to an elephant-trap.
Kitto adds, there can be no reasonable doubt, as cinnamon and cassia were known to the Greeks, that they must have been known to the Hebrews also, as the commerce with India can be proved to have been much more ancient than is generally supposed. It is moreover sufficiently clear that the ancient Arabians obtained this spice from the three sources of India,
EARLY TRADE IN SPICES. 323
Ceylon, and the Malay islands ; and as we proceed, ■\ve shall see that this was not the only product early imported by the Arabians from the far East.
In an able disquisition on a work called the ** Pcriplus of the Erythrcan Sea," written probably about the year 129 B.C., Dr. Vincent informs us that perhaps the most ancient record that we possess of a trade between Arabia and the countries of the east is obtained in " Ezekiel ; " and this trade, then, must have been carried on before the siege of Tyre, or about 588 B.C. The articles then imported by the Arabians from India and these countries seem to have been gold and spices. But in those days Tyre had the commerce almost entirely in her own hands ; excepting during the reign of Solomon, who, though he exacted a tax from the kings and governors of Arabia upon their imports, and shared in the profits of their trade, had not, says Dr. Vincent, any fleets in the Mediterranean, nor commerce on that sea. This circumstance, he adds, gave Tyre a monopoly of the whole communication with the Western world.
The extensive trade which the Arabians had with the East gave them great power and influence, not only upon the Red sea and the north-east coast of Africa, but as far south, upon the eastern coast of that conti- nent, as Cape Corrientes. This trade was at its height long before any visits paid to the Eed sea by Greek or Roman ; and the chief jDorts at which their imported produce was received seem to have been.
Y 2
824 "8AB0N0" AND **KBl8:*
Mosyllon and Point Aromata. So particular was the trade in gums and spices that their productions were, in the markets of Alexandria, always designated by the term " Mosyllitick ; " and probably our terra aromatic, as applied to such articles, is derived from the name of the ancient port of Aromata.
In the occupation, however, of the island of Mada- gascar, and probably of certain ports — though this is not so clear — the Arabs were forestalled by the Malays ; and for this information we are indebted to the researches of Dr. Tickeriug, among others. This gentleman says, in his " Races of Man," that the Malayan race is actually present upon the island of Madagascar, and dominant there : and as to the time of their arrival, it is sufficiently evident that Malay influence has preceded the visits of the Arabs.
Some writers have, however, questioned this asser- tion of the prior occupation of ^Madagascar by the Malays ; and excellent authorities have, while ac- knowledcrins the fact, demurred to the inference sought to be drawn from it of a mi^rration thither of the people of this natioiL Let us take, then, the evi- dence. First, we have upon the island a class of man bearinjr such clear traces of hc'm<r a hvbrid between the Malay and the Negro, that Dr. Pickering unhesi- tatingly classifies these people imder the title of Malay- ised Negroes, evidently the same race as the Samangs of the Nicobar islands and the interior of the pen- insula. Then, aj^ain, if the Madagasci language be
MALAYS IN MADAOASOAB. 325
taken, we sliall find lliat it contains many words from the Malayan tongue, the Malay numerals being wholly imported into it. For names of places on the island, there arc on the east coast — where the Malays would naturally first laud — such terms as Manamhatoo, Manam Hari, &c. ; batoo being the Malay for a stone, and ha ri for a day; while the word manatn is evidently a corruption of the Malay term anam, six.
In the etymology of the island itself, says Dr. Vincent, we should rather make our researches in the Malay than in any other language. The Arabs called it the Island of the Moon ; but it was first known to them as Madaster, or Magaster, and it was this name that was the first brought into Europe by Marco Polo, who doubtless had it from the Arabs. Ma or maha, and daster are both Malayan words ; but the former would more likely have its origin in the Sanscrit, and the latter in the Persian language. These words might, however, be readily imported into the Malayan tongue from an almost simul- taneous intercourse with India and Persia ; which is subsequently confirmed by the visits of the Malays to India and the Persian gulf, for purposes of trade, in conjunction with the Arabs. The Persians them- selves were not a maritime people, neither were the inhabitants of India, as compared with the Malays ; while the Arabs themselves would scarcely have borrowed a name from another tongue.
Another thing in favour of the supposition that
326 "SABONO" AND "KBlS."
Msidagasair wius people<l by tlie ^lalays, and known to liavc been by the Arabs, is that we find an early Arabian chart in the twelfth centuiy giving the island in question, not as lying on the cast coast of Africa, but contiguous to the Straits of Malacca ; doubtless from the fact that reports had reached the Arabs of there being Malays upon it, rather than from the supposed error of Ptolemy, in carrying the coast of Africa round to the east. From these points enough evidence may surely be drawn to prove that the Malays held intercourse wdth, and peopled the island, long prior to any visit paid to it by the Araljs.
In further testimony, however, of the early migra- tion of the Malayan race westward, we have undeniable proof of their adventurous journeys by sea ; for, unlike many other eastern nations, they had no religious or other obstacle to prevent their crossing the ocean ; the voyages to and fro being made, as suggested, remarkably easy by the regularity of the monsoons. If, then, we recognise this conclusion — one which seems almost forced upon us — it stands to reason that with the Malay came the merchandise of his own land ; which in due course fell into the hands of the Arabs, and was by them carried into Arabia, Judea, and parts of Egypt.
We have it recorded distinctly by Pliny, in the first century, that a regular communication was known to be open between Arabiti, India, and parts beyond ; and that the Arabs, who were established at Ceylon
TEE AUBEA CUEBSONESE. 327
— tlicu known as Taprolmnc, and the people as Singalese, from singlia, a lion, from a fa hie of a king of Ceylon born of a lion — were spreading their superstitions amongst the natives on the coast, and wore receiving the trade of China (the country of silk) from the Ceeres, or Chinese, who had reached this island ; and that the fsither of the Rajah who came on an embassy to Claudius had been in that island. Which statement on the old historian's part, shows that prior to his day an intercourse had existed between China and Ceylon by way of the sea ; and the route for this trade must have been, as it is at the present day, by the Straits of Malacca, between the peninsula and Sumatra, then inhabited by the Malays. In the second century Ptolemy tells us of a port on the Coromandel coast of India w^hich was a rendez- vous for this trade, and that fleets were fitted out to sail from thence to the Golden Chersonese — the modern Malay peninsula. This port was called by the old geographer Nigama, and is said to correspond to the position of the modern Negapatam — a place which bears evident traces of having been an im- portant mart for trade at a very early period. And the visits there of the Chinese seem amply confirmed by the remains which they have left, especially one particular pagoda, which, says Colonel Yule, in his " Marco Polo," is constructed in a style of architecture not unlike the Chinese. The trade from this port, with occasional fluctuations, has continued down to
328 ''SARONO" AND " KRlS.*'
the present time ; anrl vessels are still fitted out there for the ancient Aurea Ciicrsonese, not merely to convey the i)ro(luce of India, but to embark large numbers of emigrants and coolies for our eiuitern settlements.
But Ptolemy elsewhere refers very definitely to the Aurea Chersonese, and seems clearly to indicate it as the country of the Malays. He mentions in con- nection with it especially two places, !Malai-oo-kolon and Ta-mala. Some geographers have placed the former near the modern Cape Roumania — perhaps the most southern part of Asia — and the latter as far north as the Tenasserim coast of Burmah. If, how- ever, we look a little into the etymolog}' of the word, we shall be rather inclined to agree with Dr. Vincent in assuming that !Malai-oo-kolon could be no other than the modern Malacca ; and being, moreover, placed in the neighbourhood of the pirates, who have given a character to the Malays in all ages, adds strongly to the same supposition. The view taken is strongly supported by the etymology of the words ta nulla, which, without attempting to force a con- clusion, can only be associated with Tanah-malai, which, literally translated from the Malayan tongue, is the "country of the Malays."
We have here, then, without trying to build up a wild theory, Ta-mala, or the country of the ^lalays, and Malai-oo-kolon, or ISIalacca, as probably then their chief city, to which they had doubtless migrated
OPINIONS OF TUE ANCIENTS. 329
from their primitive home upon the island of Sumatra, then known as Java Minor, and, somewhat later, as Pulo Percha — Pulo beinfj the fjencral name for an island with the Malays ; while at this period Singha- pura — the modern Singapore — was known, according to different authorities, as Zaba and Sebana, and the state of Pcrak was probably Ptolemy's Argusa.
Dr. Vincent was quoted a short time back as re- ferring to the Malays of quite ancient times as pirates. This character of the people may need some support ; and it is given here, by reference to Yule's " Marco Polo," where we read that —
Tlxis character for piracy and adventure the ^Malays seem steadily to have borne until the year 1267 a.d., when they became so powerfid by sea as to fit out a fleet for the invasion of Ceylon, and Avhich they successfully carried out imder a leader named Chandra Baun. Marco Polo, who \dsited Ceylon in the same century, thinks this leader to be the same as Sendeman.
It would be reasonable to assume, in fact, that the Malays, having become more powerful by virtue of this trade with the Arabs in the west, and, in all pro- bability, with the Chinese also in the east, had migrated to Malacca as a convenient entrepot on the high road between China, India, and Arabia. Colonel Yule, however, considers, from the evidence at his command, that Singhapura was rather the first great mart in these seas, and any demur to his statements must be made with great diJQadence ; but as he refers
330 "SARONG** and *'KRI8."
to a place called by Marco Polo Malai-an, and of which, he adds, there is no clear evidence to show what country or place was really meant, might not the reference have heen to Malacca ? for Malai-an would seem to indicate a place of collection for Malays. AVe have certainly this very clear evidence — that while Malacca on the main hears evident traces of having, at some remote period, been very largely peopled, there is not the slightest indication of this in the island of Singapore ; a point which is fully sus- tained by Crawfurd, who considers that there is nothing there to support the old traveller De Ban'os in speaking of the celebrated old city of Cinghapura, " to which resort all the navigators of the western seas of India, and of the eastern of Siam, China, Champa, and Camboja, as well as the thousands of islands to the eastward."
Lastly, from Marco Polo we have ample testimony of the increase in number of the Arabs on the coast of India, and the dissemination of their doctrines. He mentions that the trade from China no longer met that from the Red sea in Ceylon, but on the Malabar coast, probably at Calicut, where the ships from Aden obtained their lading from the east, and carried it up the Red sea for Alexancbia, from whence it was taken into Europe by the Venetians.
Enough has now been said in regard to this trade between Arabia and the east to show that it existed from the very earliest times — that it was known in
VOYAGERS OF THE PAST. 331
Egypt iiiiil Iiidl.'i ; uiul tli()uti;li we do nut gather from the sacred writings that any nations corresponding to the Mahiys or Chinese took part in this trade, it is not unreasonable to believe that they did, from the frequent reference made to them in the subsequent testimony of the profane writers of the first and second centuries. Were further corroboration neces- sary, it could l)c added, from the writings of the voyager Cosmas in the sixth century, and. from the journals of the Arabian geographers published in the ninth.
CHAPTER XXIX.
First mipititions — Voyages to the East — Diaz — Yasco di Grniift — The Eastern passage — Sumatra — The Achcen king — Malacca — First mention of Perak — Treaty with Siam — Disturbances.
A FEW words have now to be said to show that the Asiatic ^lalays treated of in this work have, in their first misrration eastward from Sumatra and the dis-
O
trict of Menang Kabau, first landed at Malacca,
It has been stated that these people at the present time all refer to Menang Kabau as their original home, and the seat of power of their race and nation ; and although there is no written history' to confirm this, we have it on the testimony of their chiefs, botli in Perak and the other states, that such is the case. Moreover, to this day they treat with veneration and respect any Rajah who can trace his descent from one of the leading families of that state. In addition, Mr. Crawfurd, though he gives up as hopeless all endeavours to accurately trace the exact locality from which the Malayan nation sprang, yet admits the fact of this tradition in the following words :
FIRST MIGRATIONS. 333
All tho central Malays of tlio peninsula claim tlioir origin from Sumatra and from IMiiuang KuLo, the most powerful state of tliat island ; but they Jo not [)reten(l to stat(i tlie time or the cause of their migration. Some of tlie states of the interior even call themselves men of Menang Kabo, the chiefs receiving an investiture from tliat place ; indeed, the migration from Menang Kabo to the penin- sula, althougli in driblets, goes on down to the present time. The ^Malays of Borneo, in like manner with those of the peninsula^ claim their descent from the same Menang Kabo.
In further support of this we have the authority of Mr. Braddell, the Attorney-General of the Straits Settlements, a gentleman whose long residence in the country, and intimate knowledge of the lan- guage and people, entitles his statement to be received with the greatest respect. He, however, places Singapore as the first seat of Malayan power on the peninsula, and not Malacca. He says, in reference to the singular fact of nine petty governments bordering on Malacca, that it is difficult to understand how these little states, the whole of which, when taken together, do not equal in size one of the recognised modern Malay dominions, should have been established and allowed to remain ; and goes on to mention a tradi- tion that soon after the foundation of the first Malay empire at Singapore, by members of the Menang Kabau, family in the twelfth century, a settlement was made in Malacca by a chief who, with his followers, had crossed from Sumatra. These people married the women of the aborigines, and formed a large colony, the people of which were called by the
384 ''SARONG" AND "A'iJS."
old Diitcli writers Menang Kabowo.s. Afterwards they divided into and formed the nine states, or, as they are called, Nagri Sambilang.
If the ^'iew be correct that the first migration eastward made by the Malays was to Malacca, we can then understand how the first colonists would, in accordance with their national habits of govern- ment, land under their respective chiefs, spread themselves in different localities, each chief inde- pendent of the others, but all subordinate to the parent state of Menang Kabau ; the fact of their allegiance to so powerful a state preventing them from being molested, and enabling them to maintain their independence amidst the wars and changes around them — a separate independence, which is a source of great pride amongst them to the present day.
"We may now pass on to take in rapid review the intercourse carried on since the days of Marco Polo by Europeans with tlic Malays and people of the Eastern archipelago.
John the Second of Portugal, in the year 1484, fitted out three ships, and placing them under the command of Bartholomew Diaz, sent them out with instructions to try and skirt, and, if possible, circum- navigate the continent of Africa ; and about the same time he despatched a tried soldier named CoviUian, who had served in Africa, and was well acquainted with the Arabic language, to make his way to India
VOYAGES TO THE EAST. 835
by the route of Egy[)t luid the Red sea. Covilhan learning from the Arabs of the great trade carried on at Calicut, made his way to that port, and also to Goa, whicli was then a great rendezvous for merchants from all parts.
A few years later, in 1497, Vasco di Gama made his famous voyage from Lisbon, and rounding the Cape of Good Hope sailed up the eastern shores of Africa. He had visited the coast of India, and made port at Calicut, giving to his nation the paramount power of the Indian seas from Malacca to the Cape of Good Hope, a power which was maintained for upwards of a century.
It is worthy of notice in this voyage of Vasco di Gama, that upon his arrival off Mozambique, he states that they were visited by the natives in boats which had sails made of palm. This roused the attention of those on board, who looked upon it as a remarkable circumstance, but their attention was taken in a more significant manner in a few days time, for two men of a superior rank came on board, dressed in garments of cotton, silk, and satin. This was the first infallible token the voyagers round these unknown seas had received of their approach to India, and hope glowed in every heart. The language of their visitors was, however, unknown to them, and the new^ arrivals could not comprehend either the negro dialect or the Arabic spoken by two of the voyagers, though one of them seemed to have a slight knowledge of the latter tongue.
33G ''SABONO" AND *' KlilS."
They conversed, however, with the Portuguese by- signs, and seemed to indicate that in the nortli they had seen ships as large as that upon whose deck they stood.
The point most noticed by these early navigators was that their visitors were a different race of people to those of Mozamljiqne, which was at that time under the government of Quiloa, whose sovereign ruled from Sofahi to Melinda, and over most of the neighbouring isles.
Now, it seems quite possible that these men of superior rank, who differed from the people of Mozam- bique, were Malays. From their intercourse with the Chinese, they could easily have been dressed, as described, in silks ; and might either have been settlers, or merely there as the result of one of their commercial voyages across the Indian ocean.
Later on — in 1503 or 1504 — Benthema gives a description of his hazardous voyage, and of his having proceeded from Borneo to Java, and from thence on to Calicut, at which port he arrived in 1506, just seven years before the Portuguese reached Malacca, This writer says that the people of India were then no seamen, but entrusted their naviiration to foreign sailors, " who were Mahomedans." Here, again, there seems little doubt but that these people were Malays, who to this day are the Lascars of the native vessels navigating the Kastern seas. He also relates, respecting Calicut, there were then about
MALACCA. 337
fifteen thousiiiul Aral)3 there, wlio also abounded in Ceylon and on the Coromandcl coast.
About this time the port of Goa having become of considerable importance from its trade, and from its beiniT the rendezvous for the Mahomedans who came from all parts of India and Ceylon to embark for Jeddali, to make their pilgrimage to Mecca, the Portuguese had determined to occupy it, and it was taken by Albuquerque in 1510, was recovered by the Mahomedans the same year, and finally retaken l)y the Portuixaese in 1511.
In 1513 we arrive at very distinct and important statements respecting the Malay peninsula ; for King Emmanuel, of Portugal, thinking it to be his duty, writes to inform the Pope of his successes in India, and tells him how the Portuguese general, Albuquerque, had sailed to the Aurea Chersonese, called by the natives Malacca. He had found it an enormous city of twenty- five thousand houses, and abounding in spices, gold, pearls, and precious stones. This city he had attacked twice ; taken, slaughtered the Moors, sacked it, and finally burnt the place. The king, who fought upon an elephant, was wounded badly and fled. After this the general built a fortress at the mouth of the river flowing through the city, making the walls fifteen feet thick, and using for the purpose the stones taken from the ruined mosques. At that time there were many foreign merchants at Malacca, including those from Sumatra, Pegu, Java ? (Ja'aes), Gores, and the
z
3o8 ''SARONG" AND " KRlS."
extreme east of China. Great store was obtained from the people by the conquerors ; and upon hearing of the fall of the city the king of Ansiam — raeaninfr Siam, called by the historian the most powerful nKjnarch of the east, from whom Malacca had been usurped by the ^looi-s — sent a golden cup, with a carbuncle and a sword inlaid with gold, as a token of his friendly feeling towards the conquerors. In return, Albu- querque sent some of his ablest men with presents, and instructions to explore the country for the benefit of their faith.
Here then we have distinct proofs of the wealth, power, and size of Malacca in the sixteenth century, and allusion to its former position under the king of Siam — a condition that has not been unfrequent with Malay states ; instances being quite lately given of the paying of tribute to the Siamese, who exact the gold and silver flowers mentioned as of such exquisite filigree work in an earlier chapter. The statement as to the size of Malacca is quite possible, though the old historian may have exaggerated ; but at the present day there is every trace of the city having once been of great extent, while the eastern houses are of such a slight character that a conflagration would sweep an enormous number away.
In 1589, less than one year after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, a body of English merchants sent a memorial in to the queen, asking for permission to send ships to trade with India and examine the
THE EASTERN PASSAGE. 339
Portuguese settlements, Avitli their occupations of Malacca and certain islands of the archipelago. They pointed out that there were a number of important places that might be visited with advantage by English ships. The queen, who was ever alive to the interests of commerce, and ready to give the weight of her authority, granted the petition, and three vessels sailed in ir^Ol, under the command of Captain George Raymond. Hakluyt gives an account of this expedi- tion, taken from the lips of Edward Barker, the lieutenant of the voyage. Purchas gives another account, derived from the purser, and other writers have dealt with the subject ; but all agree that the vessels were overtaken by a storm and separated, that the captain was never heard of again, and that after many extraordinary adventures — extraordinary then, but matters of course to-day — the voyage w^as ac- complished by Master James Lancaster. The ad- venturers were disappointed in their speculation, but the knowledge obtained of the feasibility of the scheme encouraged others to make the attempt. This it is stated, by more than one authority, was the first English voyage to the East Indies. Accounts, how- ever, of two previous voyages are to be found in Purchas and Hakluyt — one having been undertaken in 1579 by Thomas Stephens, and another in 1583 by Ralph — wherein the then novel accounts of the peoples they encountered, with their trade, manners, and customs are carefully described.
z 2
340 "SARONG'' AND " KRiS.
The next voyage to the east of which there is any account is that of Captain Benjamin Wood, in 1596 — a voyage tliat turned out to be most unfortunate. Three ships were fitted out, mostly at the charge of Sir Robert Dudley, and sailed from England the bearers of Queen Elizabeth's letter to the emperor of China ; but this attempt to open up trade with the east failed, for not one of the company ever returned to trive an account of the fate that befel the rest. It is a quaint specimen of the naivete and simplicity of the times that the letter borne by the little fleet re- commended two merchants of London to the emperor, and vouched for the probity of their dealings ; at the same time oflfering protection to any of the Chinese if they liked to come and open a trade to any port in Her Majesty's dominions.
By the year 1600, the Portuguese, into whose hands had fallen the major part of the commerce in the Straits of Malacca, now carried on a great trade at Arracan in Pegu, Siam, Tenasserim, Quedah, and other states in the peninsula. Sumatra was at that time divided into so many separate kingdoms, the most important of which was Acheen — the state that has of late given so much trouble to the Dutch. The king of this state besieged the Portuguese more than once in their stronghold of i\Ialacca, sending an " expedition of more than five hundred sail, one hun- dred of which were of greater size than any then constructed in Europe, and the warriors or mariners
TEE AOEEEN KINO. 341
which it bore iimountcd to sixty thousand, com- manded in person by the king."
The king of Achcen is described by Captain Best, who voyaged there in 1G13, as being —
A proper gallant man of warre ; of tliirty-two years ; of middlo size ; full of spirit ; strong by sea and land ; his country populous ; his elephants many, whereof we saw IGO or 180 at a time. His gallies and frigates carry in them very good brasse ordnance, demi- cannon, culverino, sakar, minion, &c. His building is stately and spacious, though not strong ; his court at Acheen pleasant, having a goodly branch of the main river about and through his palace, ■which branch he cut and brought six or eight mile off in twenty days, Avhile Ave continued at Acheen.
He desired the captain, whom he had called Orang-Kaya-Puteh, or wdiite lord, to commend him to the king of England, and to entreat him to send him two white women for his wives, saying that if he had a son he would make him kino- of the coast from
o
whence the English fetched their pepper, so that they should go no more to Calicut, but to their own English king, for their commodities.
The narrative goes on to say : '' Wee all this w^hile dranke tobacco in a silver pipe given by his women, which are in a close roome behind him " — giving an accurate account of the custom observed in an ordi- nary Malay house to this day. Captain Best, how- ever, does not speak very highly of the people he encountered, saying that with their king they were griping, base, and covetous ; that the trade was bad ;
342 "SARONG" AND "KRlS."
and that any ship going to Acheen should be furnished with some one who could speak Malay.
It should, however, in fairness to this monarch, be said that, when visited at a somewhat earlier date by Captain Lancaster, "at an audience to take leave, the king said to him : ' Have you the Psalms of David among you ? ' The captain answered : * Yea, and we sing them daily.' Then said the king : * I and the rest of these nobles about me will sing a psalm to God for your prosperity ;' and so they did very solemnly ; and after it was ended the king said : * I would have you sing another psalm, although in your own lan- guage ;' so there being in the company some twelve of us, we sang another psalm ; and after the psalm ended, we took leave, the king desiring God to bless us on our journey, and to guide us safely into our own country."
"We find, too, about this time, the first mention of Johore, or, as it was called, Jhor, and Perak. The Portuguese had another powerful enemy in the king of the former country, who had fonned a close alliance with the king of Acheen by marrying his sister. These kings united their forces in their attacks upon Malacca, but were each time heroically repulsed by what was, as compared to their own men, a mere handful of Portuguese. These latter had, however, an ally in the king of Perak, then a very powerful and wealthy state, to which many ships resorted for trade. On one occasion, in 1813, as related by Captain Beat,
FIRST MENTION OF PERAK. 343
the Shiilibandar of Achccn had gone on an expedition to this country, but had been driven from Pcrak by the Portuguese, and as this officer had set off without the knowk^dije of tlie kini? of Acheen, the hitter con- fiscated tlie Shalibandar's state, making excuse that he had gone to Perak, the home of his enemies.
Perak is again spoken of in the instructions given by the East India Company to their factor, John Jourdain, in 1614, where, in giving a list of the pLaces for trade in the east, it is mentioned in con- nection with several better-known places, such as Bengala, Pegu, and the Coromandel coast, and with Malacca and Patani, both states of the peninsula; while later on, when it was conquer64 by the Acheeuese, Perak is stated to have been «{)5ssessed of " much wealth."
The Portuguese were, in the ftice of these powerful native enemies, whom, by their crusades against Mahomedanism, they had converted into the most bitter opponents, unable to maintain their position for any great length of time in these seas ; besides wdiich they had to contend against the jealous hatred of the Dutch, who, readily gaining the friendship and aid of these native princes against the Portuguese, besieged them in Malacca in the year 1606 and 1608 ; but though repulsed with loss on both occasions, in the year 1641, after a blockade of nine months' duration, the town fell into the hands of the Dutch, and this was followed by the downfall of Portuguese
3U "SARONO*' AND *' KRlS."
influence in tlie archipelago, after an occupation of one liundrctl and thirty years.
It was while the Dutch were in possession of Malacca, and, saving for the piracies, comparative peace reigned in the archipelago, that M. De la Loubere was despatched by the French king its Envoy extra- ordinar}' to the king of Siam, and his account of his voyage, which is a most ably written narrative, was afterwards published in France, and translated into English in 1G93. So important a country as the Malay peninsula, lying contingent to Siam, of course did not elude his notice, and in describing it he says :
In fine, the mountains which lie on the common frontiers of Ava, Pegu, and Siam, gradually decreasing as they extend to the south, do form the peninsida of India rjini Ganrfen}, "which, terminating at the city of Sincapum, separates the gulfs of Siain and iJengala^ and ivhich, with the island of Sumatra, form the famous Strait of Malacca, or Sincapura. Several rivers defile from everj' part of these mountains into the gulfs of Siam and liengala, and render their coasts habitiiblo. Opposite to Camhoya, viz. in the i)eninsula extra Gangein, which lies on the west of the gulf of Siam, the gulf of Siam extends to Quedah and Patana — the territories of the Malayans, of which Malacca was formerly the metrojxdis.
In describing the boundaries of Siam, and enumerating its provinces at that time, he includes Jor (Johore), and Patani, going on to say that ^ ** the governor of Jor renders obedience to the king of Siam no longer, the Portuguese having given him the title of king; and it may be he never intends to
TREATY WITH SI AM. 346
obey, unless the kingdom of Siani should extend itself as relations deelarc, to the whole peninsula extra Gamjem. .Tor is the most southern city thereof, seated on a river which has its moutli at the cape of Sinca- pura, and which forms a most excellent port."
Furthermore, he says, in describing the peninsula state, Patani :
The people of Pataiia live like those of Acheen in the island of Sumatra, under the domination of a woman, whom they always elect in the same family, and ahvays old, to the end that she may have no occasion to marry, and in the house of whom the most trusty persons do rule. The Portuguese have likewise given her the title of queen, and for tribute she sends to the king of Siam every thi'ee years two small trees, the one of gold and the other of silver, and both loaded with flowers and fruits ; but she owes not any assistance to this prince in his Avars. AVhether these gold and silver trees are a real homage, or only a respect to maintain the liberty of commerce, as the king of Siam sends presents every three years to the king of China, in consideration of trade only, I cannot allege : but as the king of China honours himself with these sort of presents, and takes them for a kind of homage, it may well he that the kmg of Siam does not less value himself in the presents he receives from the queen of Patana, although she be not perhaps his vassal.
This gold and silver flower is the hiinga amas, given by some native states to the king of Siam to this day as an evidence of tributary allegiance.
In De la Loubere's book is a quaint but very correct map of the Malayan peninsula, prej)ared by M. Cassini, the Director of the Observatory of Paris in 1668, from which is gathered the fact that Perak then continued to be looked upon as second only to
34G "SMiOXG" AXJJ *' KlilS."
Malacca on tlie western coast. The river Perak is not very correct in its representation, being made more to resemble a tidal creek. This is doubtless due to the information received that the rivers to the north joined the Perak, which, in the case of the Juramtis and the Bruas is very nearly correct.
Perak has always maintained an independent posi- tion, and has exhibited great pride of authority. After the defeat of the Portuguese, however, it was oveiTun by the Acheencse ; and its inhabitants were carried away by thousands to repeople that part of Sumatra after the many sanguinary wars in which the Malayan kinjjs of the state had been eufjacred. Later on, as the power of the Acheen sovereigns was on the decline, Perak again began to assert a powerful independence, and was treated by the Dutch as a state of some considerable importance during the whole of their occupation of Malacca. Evil times how- ever were in store for the countr}', and in the year 1818 it was attacked by a ver}' large, force from the state of Quedah, to the north, with which it had always been on friendly terms. But the rajah of Quedah, being a tributary of the king of Siam, and Perak refusing to own all such allegiance, the rajah of Quedah was ordered to invade the countrj', and punish its Sultan for his contumacy. From this date it is stated that the chiefs of Perak have always resided on the left bank of the river.
The Siamese retained control over the country for
DISTURBANCES. 347
only four years, Avlicii the people of Peruk formed an allianco with Kajah Ibrahim, the powerful and warlike chief of Salangore, by whose aid the Siamese authority was overthrown in 1822. A few years later a treaty on behalf of Perak was made by the English — now established in Malacca — with the king of Siam, which provided that the country should be governed by the Sultau according to his own will, and the British power bound itself to protect Perak from attack oil the side of either Siam or Salangore ; but if the Perak Sultan chose to send his tribute — gold and silver flowers — to the King'as of old, no interference was to take place on the part of the English to prevent him.
Since then Perak has been in a state of chronic anarchy and confusion, extending back for some time, caused principally by disunion among the chiefs. This culminated during the last few years in a dis- turbance foreign really to the state, though it was of such extent that the chiefs were necessarily mixed up with it. For years past large numbers of the Chinese had made their way into the country, pursuing various industries — becoming wood-cutters, charcoal and lime- burners, gold-miners, and traders ; but the bulk were employed at the tin mines of Laroot, where, after various displays of petty jealousy, open warfare was commenced between two rival factions of these people.
CHAPTER XXX.
The Laroot riots — The Muntri — Fresh disturbances — Rival factions — British intervention — Insult to our flag — Sir Andrew Clarke — Plans for pacifying — Disarmament of the Chinese — Chiefs' dis- putes— Proposal for Residents.
Laroot, which has been so frequently mentioned in these pages as tlie district in the north of Perak, has been for some time ruled over by an officer or chief known as the Muntri of Laroot, or, as it should be more correctly, the ^Muntri of Perak ; but his power had of late become so great, and his connection with the district in question so fully acknowdcdged, that he was almost invariably spoken of as the chief of the subsidiary place.
The late Muntri is the son of one Inchi Long Jaafar, an enterprising man, who, prior to 1855, was aj^pointed by the then reigning sultan of Perak to take charge of the Laroot district, which at that time was limited to the river and the mines. He bore no title, being a mere trader, whose dealings were with the then small colony of Chinese miners who had settled in the place ; but by his keen management he
THE LAliOOT RIOTS. 349
soon became a person of some importance. Hi.s duties were appointed by the Sultan, and no douljt he had to receive the greater part of the revenues of Laroot ; his appointment being endorsed by every successive Sultan. These revenues were the tithes of the rice cultivation of the district, and later on, the tax or royalty on the tin that was smelted, so that in time his privilege became very valuable, especially as for some reason the district had its borders largely augmented towards the south, and fresh Chinese were constantly arriving to increase the workings, and of course the produce of the tin.
The Sultans being careless, indolent men, and it is believed unwilling to take the management of an extensive district, now inhabited by large numbers of Chinese, who were of a very factious nature, Inchi Jaafar would have very little difficulty in keeping them in ignorance of the vast revenue he was gradually receiving ; and kept them satisfied by means of large presents given to them from time to time as tribute ; so that he rapidly grew in power, wealth, and position as ruler over this enormously rich district, and, it seems, kept the Chinese miners in a good state of subjugation till his death, when he was succeeded by his son.
The Chinese, being a clannish people, were divided in Laroot into two parties, namely a body of Macao men, of four districts, and one of Keh Chinese, of five districts, the two parties being known as the See Kwan and the
3r.O '' SARONG" AND ''KRlS."
Go Kwan ; and between these rival factions a serious outl>reiik took pl;ic<} soon after the death of Jaiifar. This ruler had held a nominal command over the people, siding with neither faction ; Ijut a« they rapidly increased in numbers, and the disturbances arose, the present chief, Nga Ibnihim, lost control over them, and his power was set at naught.
At first during this period, the chief was merely in correspondence spoken of as Nga Ibrahim, but shortly after the Sultan promoted him to the high rank of one of his four chief officers, making him Muntri of Perak ; and before long he was practically acknowledged to be the independent ruler of the district between the rivers Krcan on the north, and Bruas on the soutL His jjolitical management was clever, for on the outbreak of the great quarrel between the Chinese, when the two parties were quite beyond his control, he joined one of the rival ftictions, and aided it by throwing the JMalay influence into the scale, thus reducing the other pdrty to submission.
This was in 1862, and was, not taking into con- sideration minor quarrels, the commencement of the disturbances in Laroot. After the fight, one of the leaders of the defeated party, who was a British sub- ject, raised a complaint to our Representative concern- ing the destruction of his property at the mines ; and the result of this wjis that his cause was espoused by our Government, and a claim made by General Cavenagh upon the Sultan for compensation to the
inUTISlI INTERVENTION. 351
defeated party to the amount of seventeen thousand dollars. This was enforced by a blockade of the Lan^ot river by a British man-of-war. The Sultan replied that this money ought to be paid by the ruler of Laroot ; and by him the indemnity was found. It is considered that the title of Muntri was bestowed upon him for supplying this large sum — but at all events the honour was conferred; and subsequently Laroot became one government, and the Muntri en- joyed the revenues of the country, whose inhabitants so increased that at the end of 1871 the Chinese mining population was estimated at forty thousand, and the value of the tin annually exported was some- where about a million of dollars.
"With the increasing strength of the Chinese, that of the Muntri began to fail. They made demands of him which he yielded ; for principally through the fact of having sided with one party, he could not maintain his prominent position as ruler over both ; and so it was that, though he was able to exact the reo-ular royalty paid to him on tin, the Chinese refused to pay to him the revenues obtained through the gambling farm on which he had levied dues, and also that which had accrued to him from the sale of their favourite drug opium. Further signs of contempt for the Muntri's power too were being shown ; for one of the great sugar-planters who rented the farms of the Krean district refused to pay his rent, alleging that the amounts were due to the Sultan, and not to the
352 *'SARONC AND ''KRlS."
Muntri, whom lie treated as a subordinate officer, and not as the ruler of the district.
Soon after — that is in the beginning of 1872 — fresh quarrels arose between the rival Chinese factions, whose position had now altered so that the defeated party had gro^^'n the stronger ; and consequently the Muntri threw over his former allies, and sided with his old enemies, with the result that the conquerors of the preceding fight were beaten, and literally driven out of the country.
Rumours of these fights reached England ; but it is probably not known what sanguinary engagements they were, inasmuch as they were looked upon as the petty riots of some Chinese, in an out-of-the-way part oi the world. But this is fiir from being a correct idea of their extent. The Chinese are a busy, indus- trious people, and, when in small numbers, are glad to obtain the protection of the Malay chiefs ; but as soon as they are in suflicient strength, they display a disposition to set that power at defiance, refusing to acknowledge their rule over the mines, and declining to pay the revenues ; but ha\4ng no control over the rivers by which they carry ofl* their metallic produce, they pay the royalties here to the Malay chiefs who live on the banks and hold the stream under their control. In their quan-els the Chinese run to great excesses, and the disturbances between rival tribes arise from small matters — a squabble between two boys, or some case of petty jealousy — when the whole
THE LABOOT BIOTS. 353
party on cither side will be drawn into the ensuing fight.
In the autumn of 1872 the Go Kwans who had been expelled, and had sjDcnt their time in warlike preparations, made an effort to regain their position. Arms and ammunition were sent up the Laroot river, and at last a desperate attack was made upon the faction in possession of the mines. The engagement seems to have been most sanguinary ; three thousand Chinamen are said to have lost their lives. The way of retreat was strewn with dead bodies ; and great numbers of fugitives, many of whom were wounded, made their way to Penang, ^vhile the conquerors installed themselves at the mines. The Muntri ao^ain espoused the cause of the victorious party, which was strongly aided by the Chinese merchants in various parts, who equipped junks, and furnished the sinews of war ; but so little w^as this state of affairs appreciated by the more wealthy and thoughtful Chinamen, that one leading man is reported to have said : " When the British flag is seen over Perak or Laroot, every Chinaman will go down on his knees and bless God ! "
In this latter disturbance fio^htinjy men were recruited from China ; w^hile on the side of the Muntri, and for the preservation of law and order, the Chief of Police in the district. Captain Speedy, with one hundred men, w^eut to his aid ; but on the w^hole the effect produced was not very great, for in spite of the moral support of the Government and the
2 A
354 "SARONG" AND *'KRl8r
aid of Captain Speedy s trained men, the Muntri's enemies could not be driven from the country ; while, being short of jirovisions, tliey took to sending out large ro\v-l)oats to forage. But from this they gradually took to genuine piracy; till, in 1873, they were attack- ing everything that came in their way, and committing such atrocities that finally the Government was forced to seriously interfere.
Prior to this, though, attempts had been made to settle the ditticulties ; for in September, 1873, H.M.S. Thalia and Midge proceeded to the scene of these piracies, and sailing up the Laroot river, were fired upon by the pirates, and, after various little encounters, proceeded to attack the powerful stockade which defended the stream, in company with well- manned row-boats; the enemy firing from muskets, and also sending rounds of grape from their larger guns. The engagement was continued for some time, when our forces were drawn off*, the stockade not having been destroyed, though great loss was inflicted upon the enemy, ours being confined to two sul)-lieutenants dangerously wounded.
This gross insult to our flag demanded immediate action; and a few days later H.M.S. Midge, in com- pany with the boats of the Thcdiaf ascended the river, where they were soon within reach of the pirates, who received them with the fire of three large war- junks and that of a strong stockade. Our forces were not long in replying, and soon after the boats dashed
BRITISH INTERVENTION. 355
i?i ; the junks were boarded, and the stockade carried, with very littk'. k)ss to ourselves ; while finally the junks and a second stockade were totally destroyed.
The Chinese were well armed, mounting, as they did, some fivc-and-twenty guns, though of small calibre, and having plenty of Snider rifles. They however were very severely punished, and the town of Laroot surrendered unconditionally, w^ith nearly four thousand men ; and the report of the officers in command stated that everything was done for the relief of the enemy's wounded ; while, as a specimen of the fighting powers of these Chinese pirates as opposed to our seamen and marines, our losses were only two men wounded, as in the previous action.
This was a severe lesson to the piratical party, but it proved impossible to capture their swift row- boats, which evaded pursuit in the various creeks with which the coast here is intersected ; and soon after the departure of the men-of-war the action of the Chinese became bolder and more serious than ever, while the fighting was renewed.
Such being the state of the country, steps w^ere absolutely necessary on the part of the Government to prevent the contagion from spreading to our own Settlements, especially to Penang and Singapore, where the Chinese had many sympathisers, and from whence the rival tribes were frequently receiving supplies of men, arms, and ammunition ; the result being constant attacks upon defenceless trading-boats
2 A 2
35G *' SARONG" AND " KRlS."
passing up and down the Straits. In fact, these Straits — notorious for their ^lalay piracies — were now gain- ing an evil name for tliose pei'jjetratcd by the subjects of the Celestial Empire. To so great an extent were these proceedings can*ied, that attiicks were planned and carried out upon our own isolated police stations, and notably upon the light-keeper and his party at the lighthouse at Cape Rachado.
This beinir the state of aftairs on the accession of Sir Andrew Clarke to the governorship in November, 1873, he proceeded to try and obtain a settlement of the disturbances by dealing personally with the matter, and procuring a general peace in the troubled districts ; for it was believed that the Chinese factions, whose fiizhtiiifj had defjenerated from a little war into open pii'acy, must have now suti'ered to such an extent as to be willing to make terms for the general and peaceable occupation of the mines, " if they could be relieved from the complications arising out of their alliances with the contending Malay parties ; " for at this time iuHuencc on the part of cx-Sultan Ismail was being brought to bear against the Muntri of Laroot, who had grown too powerful and rich to give satisfaction to the princes of the country, of which his was, after all, but a division.
To further these arransrcments the Governor decided to go from Singapore to Perak, to discuss the troubles with the Perak chiefs ; but first it was necessary that all fighting should cease.
SIB ANDREW OLAllKE. 357
Mr. Pickering, one of our ofHcers, who, from his inti- mate knowledge of the Chinese huiguagc and customs, had obtained great influence with the Chinese of the Settlements, was then sent to Penang, where he conferred with the head men, to find out whether they were willing to come to terms with each other, disarm, and let the arbitration of their disputes be arranged by Government. Mr. Pickering succeeded most fully. The head men agreed to leave their differences to be settled by the Governor, and to give up their arms. Whereupon Captain Dunlop and the writer were despatched to carry out the dis- armament, and receive all arms and row-boats, and at the same time to obtain such information as was possible respecting the dispute then existing amongst the Perak chiefs, as to the right of succession to the country. After some difficulties this was done, and the chiefs of Perak, and the leading men of the Chinese, met the Governor at the Bindings, where, as regarded the preservation of peace in Perak itself, it was decided that the Eajah Muda Abdullah should become Sultan, and in spite of his vacillating be- haviour with the Chinese, it was thought better in the interests of peace that the Muntri's appointment should be ratified as governor of Laroot, and these arrangements were made to the exclusion of Ismail, with the full assent of the Perak chiefs.
In dealing with the Chinese difficulty the rivers were searched in pursuit of row-boats and arms ;
358 ''SARONG" ANJ> ''KltlS."
among the guns taken being a Krupp. A number of women and children, who were kept in a stiitc of slavery, were searched for, so as to set them at liberty, which was subsequently done ; and the leading Chinese, many of whom were men of property, bound them- selves over to preserve peace towards each other and towards the Malays, in a penalty of fifty thoasand dollars, and furthermore undertook to disarm and destroy all their stockades. For the further settle- ment of all difficulties, three officers were appointed, with the full consent of the Sultan, to settle all points of disagreement with respect to the mines, and who were to discover and set free the women and children . the Chinese agreeing to accept the decisions of these officers a.s final.
Following upon this, the result of the discussion, and the feeling of the jSIalay chiefs that they could not of themselves deal with the Chinese immigrants, was that the Sultan Abdullah requested the Governor to appoint Residents in the countiy. This, with the full consent of the native princes, was dune ; a Resident being appointed at the Sultan s court at Perak, and an Assistant-resident at Laroot ; the expenses connected with which iqipointments were to be borne out of the revenue of the state. The two Residents were Mr. J. W. W. Birch and Captain Speedy ; the former taking up his abode at Banda Baru, and the latter as Assistant-resident at Laroot. Their duties were to
PLANS FOB PAOIFYING. 859
advise the respective rulers in matters of r(3vcnue, aud those of a judicial character especially. jMr. liirch was a mail of great experience and knowledge of the people, and had held high administrative and judicial offices at Ceylon and Singapore ; and, had he lived, would have greatly added to the development and prosperity of Perak. Captain Speedy had been busily engaged, with the hundred trained men under his command, in assisting, as Chief of the Police, in putting down the disturbances on the Laroot river — boarding junks, making seizures, and the like, and acting generally on the side of law and order on behalf of the Muntri of the country. This officer's position now as a partisan chief of armed men being no longer tenable in Laroot, and the necessity for the dis^josal of his body of fighting men having arisen, he was formally appointed the Assistant -resident, and his men dis- charged and re-enlisted as the Resident's Guard. For it was considered that this officer, being held in high respect by both the Malays and the Chinese, would — now that he was freed from all enp-aq-ements with the Muntri, and actinoj under crovernment — become a power, from his knowledge and his influence with the above chief, in the pacification and management this part of the country.
These arrangements having been made, all that was now necessary was to send back the disarmed men and boats to Laroot, towed by two steamers ; and
3C0 *' SARONG" AND " KlilS."
the miners, satisfied of the peace that was in future to reign, returned cheerfully to their avocations at the mines.
In this way, then, was a serious chain of outbreaks — begun by the Chinese, but with which the Malay chiefs had gradually embroiled themselves — on the disputed question of the right of succession and the position of the Muntri of Laroot, brought to an end ; while, had the new Sultan proved, in his fresh career, e(]ual to the opinions formed respecting him by Sir Andrew Clarke, when only Rajah Muda, or next in succession, a career of prosperity would have begun for the country, in place of the troubles which sub- sequently had place.
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Pangkore treaty— Deposition of Sultan Ismail— Sultan Abdullah — Mr. Birch's appointment — Troubles with the Sultan — His reproof by the Governor — The proclamations — The murder of Mr. Bu-ch— Lieut. Abbott and Mr. Swettenham at the Eesideucy.
The enfrafrement made with the chiefs, as described in the hist chapter, was signed on January 20th, 1874, and was called the Pangkore Treaty, and among the arrangements embraced by it, the acting Sultan Ismail was allowed to retain the title of Sultan Muda only, and had a pension and a certain small territory assigned to him suitable to his position as ex-Sultan. The rest of the treaty was taken up with questions of boundary, the payment of the Residents, the appoint- ment of native officers, and matters of revenue and the collection thereof.
The ex-Sultan Ismail was deposed, but he had only been intended, it seems, to be a temporary occupant of the throne on the death of the late Sultan ; for he was not of the blood -royal, and his only claim to the position was that he had married into the royal family and when placed in the ruling seat he was kept there by intrigue. He had occupied important positions during
362 "SABONO" AND ^'KRlSr
the past two reigns, and from his high office and age seemed to be a suitable man for temporarily occupying the throne ; while once there, as he inter- fered scarcely at all with the matters of government, living a retired life iav up the country" on the Perak river, it is probable that the principal chiefs wished to keep matters as they were, and therefore resisted the claims of tli«^ Rajah Muda Abdullah, to the disturbance of the state.
These difficulties it was the Governor's aim to end, and after his discussion with the chiefs wherein it was elicited that the claims of Ismail were not good, and that his position as sultan would, if continued, lead to the continuance of the troubled state of the country, proceedings went on for the confirmation of the Rajah Muda Abdullah as sultan of Perak ; and here it will be interesting to the reader to have the portion of the discussion relating to this matter as given by Mr. Braddell, the Attorney-General of the Straits Settlements, in his report of the proceedings at Perak and Laroot on the occasion of the Governor's visit.
The Governor then asked all present: If the Rajah Muda accepts the Sultanship, are there enough great men of the country present to confirm him ? To wliich there apiwared to be a general assent ; but the Muntri fenced, and at last, on being pressed, ho said I think there arc enough, if the Kajah Muda thinks he ought to bo made Sultan.
The Governor then addressed tlxe whole assembly and intreated them to state if there was any objection to the Kajah Muda as
DEPOSITION OF ISMAIL. 36$
Sultim, aiul ilul tlicy know of any othor person who hIiouM be instulloiH TIui Muiitri said, whati^vcr tlu; Ilaiiduliara says, I am Itound to olxiy.
Tlu'. CiOVKiiNou. But tt'U 111(1 your own opinion.
The MuNTiu. Tlio proper thing would be to impure of all the inhabitants of the country.
The CrOVKHN'oii. Have you ever heard of tlie people (ryots) being consulted in a jNIalay country as to who is to be king ?
The MuNTUi. "When Ismail was chosen the people were there^ and, I suppose, took a part in the business. (This, however, was denied by the other chiefs.)
At this time the Laksamana arrived, and took his i)lacc.
The Governor. "What Avould beconie of Ismail if the Ifajah ^Inda is made Sultan 1
The !Mimtri said he did not know ; but the Laksamana said, in times gone by there had been ex-Siiltans, called Sultan Muda, as the present Eajah Muda's grandfather was, and Ismail might have a revenue, and a small district to govern as Sultan Muda.
The GovERXOR. What ceremonies should bo performed for the installation of the liajah Muda as Sultan 1
The L.\KSAMAXA. He should be crowned at Eanda, in the Perak river ; and even if some of the great men wore not present, it would suffice if the Bandahara and Eajah Muda were present.
On this the Governor asked aU : Are you ready to have the questions as to Ismail and the Eajah Muda settled now 1
The Laksamana. How about those who are not here 1
The Governor. This point has already been discussed. Are you yourself willing to give your adhesion to the Eajah Muda as Sultan ]
The Laksamana. Individually, yes.
The Bandahara. Yes.
Eaja Osman. Yes.
Eaja AbbiVS. Yes.
The !MuNTRi. If the people like it I have no place, I of coiu'sc follow them.
The TuMONGONG. I follow the course of the Bandahara.
The Datoh Gapar. Same as Tumongong.
361 *'SARONO" AND '' KRiS.'*
The Makotah. I follow the IJandahara.
The Datoh Jvolaii. Yes,
The iSiiAHUANDAU. I will fcillnw Hk; iJaja Miula.
llajec llussaiii and Hajee MohainoJ »Sycd ancl live othcm all agreed.
Tlu! Governor. Docs Ismail take any interest in the govern- ment of tho country ]
The Bandaiiaua. lie lives a retired life.
The Governor then said that what they had been discussing would form the subject of a treaty, and asked them to name drputit's to attend for them.
All agreed.
The following were then chosen : Kajah Mudo, Bandahara, Laksaiuana, Muntri, and Shahhandar ; and at the request of the Muntri, his friend the Tumongong wa.s added.
The !M>intri, on being asked to state an}'thing ho might have in his mind, said : " As to the succession I have nothing further to say."
On this, sireh and tea was served, and the conference broke up.
Great expectations were formed of the result of this Pangkore treaty ; but shortly after Mr. Birch had taken up his residence in Perak, troubles began ; for the Governor was soon oblisred to write to the Sultan, complaining of his not taking the advice of the Resident, and calling him to account for breaking the solemn promises he had made. In fact, it seems that, from the first, great dissatisfaction was felt by both the Sultan and chiefs who had signed, and they objected strongly to Mr. Birch's plans for collecting the revenue. Later on, a full and comprehensive scheme for this purpose was laid before the Sultan — one that had the approval of the Governor — but it found no favour with the ruler and chiefs of Perak.
TROUBLES WITH TUB SULTAN. 365
In fact, Mr. Bircli .s(joii found tluit lu; liud a task of a most onerous nature in dealing with a man whom he describes as being eminently silly and foolish, and one who indulged largely in opium. He could hardly ever be kept to a subject for any time when on ques- tions of great import to the state, but was, with childish vanity, constantly asking questions and draw- ing attention to his dress. In short, he was a weak sensual man, whose sole thoughts were devoted to his own gratification when not taken up by trifling matters of the time.
At the end of a year — namely in January, 1875 — Mr. Bircli was so out of favour with the Sultan that the latter wrote to ex-Sultan Ismail not to sign the Pangkore treaty, lest it should strengthen the Kesident's authority in Perak. In fact, on other occasions, the Sultan showed a disposition to take part with his old opponent Ismail against the Resi- dent ; and as time wore on, ominous little signs began to tell of the coming of mischief. The Maharajah Lela, a powerful chief, began to erect a strong stockade round his house at Passir Sala. The Muntri of Laroot took precautions for the safety of his family by re- moving them from Durian Sabatang to Laroot ; while in many other instances little clouds began to form, indicative of the coming storm.
At last, in April, Sir Andrew Clarke wrote another letter to the Sultan, reproving him for his resistance to the reforms proposed by Mr. Birch, and telling him
3G0 "8AR0N0" AND '' KRlS."
that ho was breakin'^ the Panjjkore treaty. At the same time lie enclosed «'i proclamation under his own hand, which warned all men a^jainst collecting: the revenue in any form excepting only such aa were ap- pointed by the Resident. Soon jifter this the Sultan sent to the Governor at Singapore, making complaints against Mr. Birch, so as to get him removed from the Residency ; but Sir Andrew Clarke declined to inter- fere, as he was leaving the Straits. This letter not succeeding, and being still more embittered against the Resident, who was pressing him to sign certain papers in connection with his scheme of taxation, it seems that the Sultan called together his chiefs at Durian Sabatang; and it is believed that at that time it was decided to kill Mr. Birch, and, by a combination of the people, to attack Banda Baru, and cb-ive the English completely out of Perak.
Later on — that is in September, 1875 — Sir William Jervois, having npw succeeded Sir Andrew Clarke as Governor, visited Perak, and, during his progress through the countiy, made proposals both to the ex- Sultan at Blanja, and to Sultan Abdullah at Banda Baru, that the country should be handed over to the management of British officers ; proposing certain allowances for the chiefs if they ainved to the arransre- ment, as this seemed to him the only way of settling the knot into which aft'airs had run : for the treaty wa.s openly violated, the government was wTetched, slavery ran riot, and Mr. Birch had embittered himself still
TEE I'ROGLAMATIONS. 367
movo l»y iiiterfciiiig in certain slavery matters. After consideration, the ex-8ultan Ismail refused these pro- posals, and declared that he was not bound by the Pangkore treaty, while Abdullah expressed his wish to abide by the treaty, but asked for time for considera- tion, and received fifteen days.
At last the proposals were accepted by the Sultan, and he received a promise in writing from Mr. Birch that he should be paid two thousand dollars per month. On the same day a letter was brought to Abdullah, by the colonial steamer, consenting that the government should be carried on in the Sultan's name ; another letter being at the same time conveyed to Mr. Birch for the Kajah Muda, or heir to the throne, Yusuf, offering to make him sultan if Abdullah had declined the Governor's proposals as to the government. Matters however still hung fire, the Sultan hesitating to sign the proclamations placed before him by Mr. Birch, and it was only under the pressure of a threat to send the Governor's letter to Yusuf that the Sultan affixed to the proclamations his chop, or seal.
One of these proclamations, in the name of the Sultan, announced to the people of the country that it had been found advisable to place the land for its better government in the hands of British officers, who were to try cases ; but in matters of life and death no capital sentence could be executed without the Sultan's consent. The other proclamation dealt with
308 " .s-IizOxVr; " axd "A'/e/s."
the new arrangements to be made as to the gathering of the revenue, and stopping,' the illegal squeezing carried on by the chiefs. Following upon these, a pnielamation was issued by the Governor at Singa- l^ore, and was afterwards sent up to Mr. Birch. But meanwhile troubles were thickening. Three slave women liad fled from the Sultan, and sought and obtained protection at the Residency ; the Sultan was receivin^j visits from his chiefs, and is believed to have fjiven his signed consent to the murder of Mr. Birch. Then the women were claimed, and consent was given for them to go ; but Mr. Birch declared that, now he held full authority from the Sultan, he should interfere if the women required his protection.
The plot too was thickening in another direction ; for communications were being opened up with ex- Sultan Ismail, and it was in consideration what steps should be taken to defeat the British authority. At last matters came to a climax ; for soon after, that is at the end of October, copies of the Governor's and the Sultan's proclamations were brought to the Residency at Banda Baru, and were posted under a salute of twenty-one guns ; while just about the same time, bullets were being made, powder obtained, and men were gathered preparatory to a rising.
On the 1st November Mr. Birch ascended the river Perak in his drasjon boat, the same fjiven in the illus- tration. He was accompanied by Lieutenant Abbott, R.N., and a small native guard, in a large and small
MUJii>i:h' or MU. iui>i'ii. oO'j
boat, tis escort ; niid tlioy made their way up to Pa-ssir Sala, wliere, as soon as it was known that tlicy had iuiivcd, announcements were sent round in all direc- tions. Passir Sala was the residence of the Maharajah Lela, a chief who had shown all through a most determined opposition to the Governor's proposed naw method of administering the affairs of the country ; l)ut so little was danger apprehended, that the two officers dined and slept that night on board the Resident's boat, in the belief of their absolute security. The next morning — a memorable one in the history of Perak — Lieutenant Abbott crossed the river for awhile to shoot, and ]\Ir. Birch shortly after sent Arshad, his interpreter, into the village of Passir Sala, to pos*t the Governor's and Sultan's proclamations. This was resented, however, by the Malays, who kept tearing them down as fast as they were posted up ; which so enraged the interpreter that at last he struck one of their number with a stick, an indignity which was at once resented with the kris, and the poor fellow ran bleeding to the river and jumped in. This was the spark that set fire to the train ; a cry of amok immediately ensued, and the infuriated Malays, armed with spears and krises, made n rush in a body dow^n to the river-bank, where Mr. Birch was ashore at the bathing-house, his orderly being on guard with a revolver. He let his leader, however, be taken com- pletely by surprise, and at a great disadvantage, leaping into the river, holding up his revolver, and swimming
2 B
370 ''SABONO" AND *'KRlSr
fur liis lite. Mr. Jjircli was a lithe active muu, of uu- ilauiiteJ Ijiavery, aud had he beeu iu the boat, where he was Well provided with firearms and spears, he would have sold his life most dearly. As it was he was savagely attacked, some of the ^Malays driving their keen limbinfrs throuarh the rattan mat that formed a screen, while others went to the ond of the bath, and, iLs the wounded Resident struggled up out of the water, one man cut at him with a sword, when he sank, and for the time being was seen no more.
]Meanwhile Ai'shad, wounded as he was, made for the dragon boat, and got hold of the gunwale, trying to sustain himself ; when two of the Malays jumped into the boat, and cut at him with their swords till he lost his hold, and floated down the stream to be picked up by the coxswain of Mr. Bii'ch ; who had in the melee swum ofl" to one of the two boats which accompanied the dragon, and who now tried to save the interpreter, and cb-agged him in. A portion of the escort of Sepoys were in this boat, and they now commenced firing at the Malays, dri\'ing them off for the time ; but as this boat now dropped down the stream they took courage and followed, firing at the guard; and then taking a sampan, they crossed the river and began firing again, scaring the escort so that they took to the water. A few more shots were ex- changed, and then the small boat was allowed to proceed in peace ; but before they had gone much farther it was found that the inter|)reter, who by his
MURDER OF MR. BIRCH. 371
r;isli act ]»;id conimeucocl the trouble, was (load, while several of the Sopojs and boatmen were killed and wounded, the larger boat having been sunk during the disturbance.
The nati\'e guard had l)een ordered by Mr. Birch not to use their firearms, for he had said if the Malays made a disturbance he would leave. In fact, the men were cleaning their rifles, and were so taken by surprise by the large party of well-armed Malays that resistance seems to have been the last thino" dreamed of; while the whole attack was so sudden and un- expected that nothing seems to have been done to save Mr. Birch ; the English companion on whose aid he could have counted, and without whose lead the Sepoys seem to have been helpless, being far away.
As soon as the disturbance was over, Mr. Birch's dragon boat was taken by one of the chiefs for a short distance down the stream, and plundered ; the principal part of the Eesident's things being afterwards found in the house of the Maharajah Lela, who was con- sidered to be the leading spirit in the attack, aided by another chief, known as the Datu Sagor ; and proof is not wanting of the preparations that had been made for the cowardly attack. No doubt the train was already laid, and it wanted but the spark to be applied. In fact, just before his death, Mr. Birch had noticed a body of about forty Malays, all armed with spears and krises, crowding towards his boat, and warned them to keep away ; but he evidently felt so
2 B 2
372 *\SARONa" AND " KlilS."
secure that he took no further heed to their ])roximity, altlioujrli such a iratherin^ was unusual. The excuse for the risinf^ was furnished by tlie interpreter's act, one whicli he paid for dearly in the loss of his own life ; while he was the immediate cause of the deatli of a valuable public officer, whose body was some four days afterwards tjikcn away, towed behind a boat, by some Jiugis men, and was afterwards found ashore in the jungle, about two hundred yards from the river, by Rjijah Dein, a Bugis.
Lieutenant Abbott was in the meantime unaware of what had taken place, being absent for about three hours, shooting on the farther shore ; but, on his return to the river, he was met by the Datu Sagor, who had but a short time before taken part in the emeute, and now told the lieutenant that there had been a disturbance at Passir Sala, advising him to- take refuge in the jungle, as his life was not safe for a minute where he then Wiis.
This advice savouretl strongly of treachery ; for, under the circumstances, concealment in the jungle would have Ixen a very hopeless proceeding, and must have resulted in the fugitive being hunted out and shot down. It is evident that Lieutenant Abbott took this view of the position — alone there with his one companion — and rejecting this advice, and feeling that with his leader and escort gone, his best plan was to flee to the Residency, he watched his opportunity, and seized a small canoe, or dug-out, in which he and hia
LIEUT. ABBOTT AND MR. 8WETTENHAM. 373
follower cmbarkod, and puddled off into mid-stream, so as to allow it to drop down with tlic current to Randa Bam.
If he had liad any doubt before of the wisdom of trusting to himself, instead of the Datu Sagor, it was swept away directly ; for fire was opened upon him from both banks, the gauntlet of which he ran till he was beyond the reach of the Malays, and arrived at the Residency in safety, w'here he at once made up his mind to put it in a state of defence. Fearing that an attack Avould soon follow, he called in all the Sepoys and police to the small island upon which the Resi- dency w^as built. Mr. Swettenham, of the Straits Civil Service, who had a few^ days previously ascended the river, for some distance, on the same mission of posting the proclamations, heard on his way back of .the events at Passir Sala, where he was told that the Malays were on the look-out to kill him. He, too, was advised by a friendly rajah; but the advice he received w^as not to land, but to retreat; and this he did, making the best of his way down the river under the cover of the night, an unusual mist fortunately prevailing at the time when he reached Passir Sala, and concealing bis little craft till he was safely by ; and he finally succeeded in joining Lieutenant Abbott at the Resi- dency. Thereupon the determination was made to hold the place, and defend the flag to the last.
The island being only separated by a small creek from the bank of the river, and having but sixty men
374 ''SAIiOXG" AND " KRiS."
at his disposal, Lieutcuant Abbott entrenched his posi- tion, told off his four seamen to the native detach- ments to work the field-pieces on the sixjt, and generally i>ut the place in a good state for resisting the enemy. But previous to this being fully accom- plished he had written to the Sultan, telling him of the murder of Mr. l^ireh, and asking him to collect men and come to his assistance. To this Abdullah responded by coming at once, accompanied by the Laksamana, the Shahbandar, and a large following. ^Ir. Swettenham, however, did not feel full confidence in the presence of these Malay chiefs and their followers in tlie little British camp, where they might easily convey information to the enemy ; and, consequently, while accepting their services, requested them politely, but with firmness, to move lower down the river, ready io act when called upon, and this was acceded to at once.
CHAPTER XXXII.
The attack on Passir Sala — Kepulse — Burial of Mr. Birch and Cap- tain luncs— Proceedings of the Government — Ecinforcemcnts from China — Capture of Passir Sala — Mr. Birch's dragon boat — Troops from India — Proceedings of the northern column — Qualla Kungsa and Kota Lamah.
The position of the young Englishmen at the Resi- dency was a perilous one ; but their prompt behaviour was not without its influence on the people, and they were not long left in suspense ; for the news having been conveyed to Penang by Captain Welner, of the Straits Government steamer Pluto, the Lieutenant- governor lost not a moment in sending off a detach- ment of Her Majesty's lOtli Foot, and some police, under the local head of the force, the Hon. H. Plunket. At the same time, Captain Innes, of the Royal Engineers, an oflicer of great judgment, was sent to act as commissioner, and ]\Ir. Kynnersley, of the Straits Civil Service, as interpreter. The news of the coming of these reinforcements was conveyed in a letter from Captain Innes, and was gladly received at the Residency, as it contained the information that the little force would be at Banda Baru on the following
37G ''SARONG" AX It " KRlS."
day. On the arrival of tlio troops no timo was lost, preparations ]mn<f liurried on ; and Mr, Swetton- liani's plan for attacking tlie enomy by sending a small f'Hci' up cacli bank of the river, supported by two guns hished in the boats, was generally approved, while rockets were also to be taken in the boats for use if required.
It was at this time that the body of Mr. iiirch was brought in, the Bugis who were its bearers giving information of there being a strong stockade at Passir Sala, and another four or five hundred yards inland.
The party marched to the attack on November 7th, preceded l)y ]\Ialay scouts, and accompanied by a rocket pai'ty with four Ijlue-jackets, the troops being undr'r the command of Captain Booth and Lieutenant Elliot. On approaching the stockade, the attacking party had many difficulties to hinder them — the thickness of the field of Intlian corn and padi, and the trees, fences, and height of the stockade, which, in spite of their eflforts, was but little injured by the rocket party. A heavjr fire was opened upon the little force as soon as they came within range of the stockade, which was found to be held in force ; and in spite of the vigorous reply of our troops, the men fell fast. But the advance was still kept up until the infautiy were close up to the ]\Ialay stronghold, when Lieutenant Elliot was wounded severely, and his party fell back behind a tree. The firing was however still kept on, and another of the 10th men went down ; and on his
ATTACK ON PASS Hi SAL A. :i77
bcin<; carried to tlie tree where the lieutenant was taken, it was found that Captain Booth was also wounded, and th(^ lieutenant and Captain Innos had both })('on taken to the rear, the latter shot through the heart.
Under these circumstances, three officers of the little force being hors de combat, it was considered wiser to retire until reinforcements could be procured ; and after carrying the wounded to the rear, a volley was fired into the stockade, and the little party, l)ur- dened with its injured men, steadily began to retreat. They had a distance of about a couple of miles to traverse to reach the boats, where all were embarked, and proceeded to the Residency, the Malays being satisfied with beating off the attack, and making no attempt at pursuit, or even at hindering the re-embar- kation.
This was a severe repulse, the losses of the little force being no less than seventeen killed and wounded, two of the killed being Captain Innes and a man of the 10th, whose body afterwards floated down the river, shot through the head and chest. Fortunately, how- ever, surgical assistance was at hand, and the wounded were w^ell attended to.
Mr. Birch was buried beneath the palms close by the Eesidency — a faithful representation of the place being given in the accompanying engraving, produced from the series of photographs taken by the wTiter durinq; one of his visits to Banda Baru.
This spot was chosen for Mr. Bii'ch's interment, as
378 "SABONG" A XI) " KBiS."
bcinf^ one of the portions of the jungle which he had cleared for about two or three hundred yards along the bank for the site of the new Residency he meant to build, where the barracks, armoury, and magazine bad been established, as shown in the cut, with a police station a little lower down. On the occasion of the bringing in of the body, and its interment, the people, who v.cre greatly attached to their leader, made bitter lamentation. It was an im[)ressive scene, the more especially as it took place at a time of peril, when no man felt that his life was safe. The service was read by Mr. Swettenham, and due militar}- honours were accorded to the fallen man, three volleys being fired by the Siklis over bis grave just as the sun was sinking. Only a short time later the ground had to be again disturbed to form a grave for Captain Innes, who was Ijuried with the same ceremonies beside Mt. Birch, as the moon was rising on the night of the day on which he fell.
A few days later the Governor visited Perak in person, bringing with him in H.IM.S. Fly, Captain Bruce, a detachment of H.M. 80th Foot with some artiller}*, and leaving his instructions with ^lajor Dunlop, RA., who had come up as Commissioner, he sent on also H.M.S. Tliistle, Captain Stirling, which was then at Klang, farther down the coast. Prior, however, to leaving Singapore, the Governor had in- structed the Colonial Secretary, Mr. C. J. Irving, to telegraph to Hong Kong for more troops, and to
liEINFOIiCEMENTS FROM CHINA. 37^
suimnoii H.M.S. Modesto from Labuan; and witli praiseworthy il('.s[)atcli Oencral Colbornc arrived at Singaporo by the IGth, witli tlircc, hiindr('(l of H.M. 80th Foot.
But before the general had liad time to leave Singapore, Major Dunlop nnd Captain Stirling had concerted measures for a combined attack upon Passir Sala by land and water. At the same time it may be mentioned in passing, that the Governor's idea for reducing the ^Malays" to submission was for one force to proceed up the river by Passir Sala, while another crossed the country from the Laroot river to Qualla Kungsa, so as to proceed down the Perak river — these two points giving a practical control of the country.
Major Dunlop and Captain Stirling's plan was carried out on November 16th, and in this attack upon Passir Sala, Sultan Abdullah, who had been applied to for help against the rebellious chiefs* furnished sixteen boats for the transport of the men and artillery, but without " polers." This difficulty was however got over by the seamen, though it was an onerous duty for men unaccustomed to the work, and in a sharp stream. The plans were well carried out. Captain Stirling's naval force taking up its position in the river, and Major Dunlop's land forces theirs near Passir Panjang, bugle signals being arranged so as to keep up the co-operation when the two forces were separated. The fire was opened from the stockade upon the boats in the river, and vigorously kept up
380 '^SAnONO" AM) '' KRlS."
on l)oth sides ; uliilc Icaviiifr the jungle, the land forces <idvanc«'d through tlie thick Indian corn till fire waw opened upon thcni. Tlien a gun (a 12-pound howitzer) was brought up, and after four or five rounds of case- shot had been discharged into the stockade its fire was silenced, and the troops dashed in to find it deserted. It was a strong place, with deep ditch, earth-work, wattled fence, and pointed bamboos, while it was armed with a large iron gun and a small pivot "lelah."
These guns were spiked and thrown into the river, and the force then moved on through a dense plantation of bananas till fire was opened upon them from another stockade, a short distance from the spot where Mr. Birch was murdered. The Malays in the second stockade were driven out by the blue-jackets, and the attention of all was then directed to a formidable one close into the village, which was firing on the boats. No time was lost, for the eagerness of the men was roused by the sight of ]Mr. Birch's boat and the bath- house where he was murdered, and with a rush they charged and took the stockade, the land and river forces entering it at the same moment, to find that the Malays had retreated. Here were found four "uns, one beinji the small brass piece taken from Mr. Birch's boat ; two were lelahs, and the other an iron 6-pounder, which had just burst, evidently having been struck by one of the English shells.
By this last stroke, Mr. Birch's dragon boat and
CAVTURL'I OF FASSIIi N.l/>.l. 'Ml
liis row-lioat woro recovered, iind tlie village was in the possession of the English, who now turned tlieir attention to the Maharajah's house, which was found to be strongly fortified, being surrounded by an earth- work eight feet high, with ditch containing w^ater, and on the top of the earthwork a stockade formed of short sharpened bamboos. The place might have been held and given a good deal of trouble to capture, but it had evidently been left in a hurry, and on search being made, a number of the articles belonging to Mr. Birch, which had been plundered from his boat, were found.
The village was then burnt, and soon after
Campong Gaja, a place a little lower down, the
residence of the Datu Sagor, who, as we have seen^
either took part in or countenanced the murder of
Mr. Birch, by being present at the time. This
place had also been fortified with a couple of stockades,
but very little attempt was made to defend it. At
the other stockades, however, a gallant defence was
made, and the enemy must have suffered heavily.
They however retreated in good order, carrying off
their arms with their wounded and dead ; the principal
trophies obtained, beside the guns, being the war-gong,
shot through by a bullet, and several drums, with
powder and cartridges in some quantity. The loss on
our side was not one man killed, while only two men,
one of whom was a civilian following the forces, were
wounded.
382 '*SABONO'* AND "KRlS."
Consequent upon the conilition of Perak, and the intiammablc nature of the ^liilay charaeter, the other states began to show strong symptoms of a rising, as if contingent upon the Perak outbreak, and further reinforcements being urgently needed, India wa.s uppeided to by telegram ; and so rapid now are the movements of forces when summoned l^y wire that by the 27th of the same month the first portion of the reinforcement reached Penang. It was so admirably adapted for the service in hand, so complete in itself in every detail of its composition, and showed through- out how all had been contrived by a prevailing master- mind, that it may be well here to give an account in full of this miniature army designed for jungle fight- ing.
The head-quarters and GOO men of H.]M. 3rd Regt. (Bufis), Col. Cox, C.B.; head-quarters and 400 men of 1st Ghoorkhas; 3-5th Royal Artillery, with four mountain guns (7-pounder M.L.R steel, 1501b.); two 5-J-inch mortars, with 500 rounds per piece, and 200 rockets ; a field telegraph of 100 miles of wire, one superintendent, and ten signallera ; a company of the Madras Sappei-s and Miners ; a proportion of medical oflicers, doolies, and doolie-bearers for conveyance of sick ; with sea provisions for sLx weeks and shore provisions for ten days, camp equipage, light tents, and "Lascars' pawls."
This force was capable of division into three parts, and was composed with this view in officers, men,
TROOPS FROM INDIA. 383
(Equipment, guns, and animuriition. Eacli ship liad ii complete oquipmcut for the number of troops aboard, so as to make tlicm independent of the movement of the other vessels.
Brig. -Gen. Koss was in command, with staff as follows : Major Mark Heathcote, Assistant Quarter- master-General ; Major H. J. Hawkins, Major of Brigade; Lieutenant Preston, Rifle Brigade, A.D.C.; Capt. Badcock, Deputy- Assist. Commissary-General ; ISIajor Twiggc, R.E., Capt. Crawford, R.E., Lieut. North, R.E., Field Engineers.
H.M.S. Philomel also came from Bombay, and Admiral Ryder sent from China H.M.S. Egeria and Ringdove', H.M.S. Modeste, Capt. Buller, senior naval officer, which was on her way when the distur- bances commenced, reached the Straits about the 20 th November.
General Colborne (now Sir F. Colborne, K.C.B.) had now a considerable force under his command, one that must have made a great impression on the Malay chiefs, as an example of the power and promp- titude of England when called upon to maintain the dignity of the Empire, and avenge so cruel an insult as the present to her flag. In conjunction with the Governor, then, it was arranged to hold the country until the murderers of the late Resident were given up — a reward having already been issued for the capture of the Maharajah Lela — and satisfaction duly rendered for the outrage.
384 *'SABONa'' AND *' KRiS:
The Indian (;olunni, which was appointed to occupy tli<* ui)per portion of the country, had to manli by way of Laroot, a distance of twenty-seven miles — the pass they had to traverse has been men- tioned in the early part of tliis work — arrangements liaving been made and stations appointed for their encampment. In this work the Muntri lent every assistance in his power, l)y furnishing elephants and men for the improvement of the track, which is now occupied by the first good road which was made in Pcrak. Detachments were left at Bukit Gantang and C'ampong lioyah, with which places communica- tions were kept up ; these being spots that had been chosen as sites for encami)ments by Captain Satter- tliwaite, R.E., in concert with Captain Speedy, the writer being the Commissioner and ^Ir. W. ^laxwell the Deputy-commissioner with this force.
The southern column was under the command of Crncral Colborne in person, with Majors Lloyd and Huskisson as Brigade-^Iajors; and Commissary Robin- son, of the Control Department, a gentleman who, from previous visits to the country, was able to render most valuable assistance. The artillerj^ force was com- manded by Major (now Colonel) Nicolls. The medical officers in charge were Drs, Randall and Orton, the former of whom was wounded, and is since dead. Major Dunlop was the Commissioner with this force, and Mr. Swettenham Deputy-commissioner,
The naval portion was under the command of
THE NORTHERN COLUMN. 385
Captain Piuller. C.l^., and the naval brigades forni<3d from it were under Captain l^uller and Captain Crarforth — the former with General Colbornc and the southern column, and tlie lattci' with Brigadier- Ccueral Eoss in the north.
The northern column duly crossed the country from Laroot to Qualla Kungsa, which became the military station for the time being ; and ifc was while the troops were here that an absurd alarm took place. An attack from the Malays was at any moment deemed imminent, and careful supervision was exer- cised during the night over the various sentries ; therefore a sudden outcry from one of the camp fol- lowers, who had been lying asleep, was quite sufficient to produce a stampede amongst the undisciplined portion of the people, and it was some time before the cause of the cries could be made out. The matter was very simple : the alarmist had been lying asleep on his back beneath a cocoa-nut tree, and one of the huge husk-covered nuts, being over-ripe, had become dislodged in the night, and in falling had struck the poor fellow in the epigastric region, causing, no doubt, as much pain as fear.
The chief value of this northern column was in its presence in Upper Perak, where it kept the disaffected chiefs in check, and thoroughly prevented them from combinino; in anv active measures aojainst fhe Govern- ment, and also from joining those below stream in the disturbances. It had however its actual work, among
2 G
386 "SARONQ" AND ''KlilS."
the princii>al events of wliich was its attack upon Kotali Laniali — a place that liad long l>cen noted as a resort for the worst characters, and freehootei's of the vilest description. In fact, !Mr. Birch, during one of his visits was threatened by the people with loaded guns. On the arrival of the troops at Qualla Kungsa these people were not openly hostile. The acts of the head men of the phice however at last called for inter- ference ; and as it became necessary to make an example of the village before the departure of the troops, it was determined to disarm the people. For this purpose a small force was sent up the river beyond Qualla Kungsa, and the demand for arms to be given up was acceded to on being made by Captain Speedy ; but armed men were seen rushing off, in two or three instances, to the jungle. The military force made their way right through the campong and back without being opposed ; and after this General Ross and his party landed at the middle of the village, and were searching the various houses to see that they contained none but women and children, when, under cover of a brisk fire, well maintained from the jungle, they were assailed by a body of fift^' or sixty spear- armed ]\Ialays, who had been hidden amongst the trees. These men suddenly rushed out, and nearly succeeded in surrounding the little party, which had to retire figliting as they went, the marines and sailors main- taining a most gallant front till the river was reached. Shortly before this several officers had gone in the
KOTAII LAM Ml. 387
direction of the river, and Major Hawkins is supponed t<) IiaA'e been following them when he received ;i frightful spear wound, the bhidc passing right through his cliest. A sailor named Sloper ran to his help, and shot two Malays who were running up to con- tinue the attack, when Major Hawkins is reported to have exclaimed : " Save yourself, you can df> me no ffood now." The officers who had o-one on towards the river now returned, and tried to move him, but they W'Cre compelled in turn to fall back towards the river, Surgeon ToAvnscnd being the first to be assailed by three Malays with spears. One he shot with his revolver, but the man struck him down in falling, and his two companions dashed in to spear him, when they were bayoneted by a couple of the seamen. This engagement was successful, however, from the fact that a large quantity of arms were taken, including Iclahs and a 12-pounder iron gun, which was spiked and thrown into the river.
Far from being disconcerted by their losses, the people of Kotah Lamah began soon after erecting stockades, and were guilty of so many lawless acts, that the Governor finally decided that a severe chas- tisement should be inflicted upon them, and for this purpose he consulted with General Colborne. The con- sequence was that a further expedition was arrano-ed to be carried out against the Kotah Lamah people, the great body of whom had now gone farther up the river, to the two villages of Enggar and Prek : and this
2 c 2
388 ''SARONG" AND '' KRlS."
expedition was somewliat hurried by an appeal for help which came from liajah Muda Yusuf, whose people, had l)een attiickcd l)y a body of the Kotah Lamali people, under Toh Sri Lela, their chief This i)arty was driven off by some of the Ghoorkhas, but unfortu- nately two of Piajali Yusufs friendly Malays were killed and two wounded by mistake.
The next day our forces were sent up the river to Enggar, where the Malays opened fire from two or three lelahs, but after a short and sharp retuni fire they were effectually driven out of their village. A portion of the force was then directed to bivouac in the village for the night, and then move forward and attack Prck, to wliich place Toh Sri Lela and his fol- lowers had fled. Here, the next day, the enemy were again driven out, making a precipitate retreat, a re- sult which, when achieved, was followed by the return of our troops to Qualla Kungsa, the power of the Kotah Lamah chief being completely broken.
CHAPTER XXXUI.
The .southern columu — Bhinja — Tlic march through the jungle — iStockade-fighting— Capture of Kinta— Flight of Ismail— The Torrachce valley— The stockades at Bukit Putoos — Captaiii Chanuer's attack— The risiug at Klang — Suppression of the revolts.
The l)ruiit of the work however in the Perak outbreak fell upon the southern column, which had to be brought up the river in boats against the rapid stream, the means of progression being by " poling," w^hich was admirably performed by the blue-jackets — whose behaviour throughout, whether in boating or skirmish- ing in the jungle, was always gallant and deserving of praise.
It was on December 8th that the forces left Banda Baru, but with so large a flotilla — forty-five boats crowded with troops — the current strong, and the heat of the sun very great, only about eight miles were accomplished on that day ; and the little army encamped on an island just above Passir Sala. The 9th, 10th, and 11th Avere passed in the same slow tod up the river; and on the 12th the force encamped about a couple of miles below Blanja, the site of their
390 ".S'.I/COiVr;" AXD "A'/i'/.S."
projected operations — for here the Sultan Ismail had had his place of residence.
The next day the trooj»s marched into Blanja by eight o'crlock in the morning, but to find no enemy ; for the news of the coming of the little force had pre- ceded them, and the place was deserted. On every side lay the traces of a hasty flight : boxes and packages prepared for conveying away lay in all direc- tions, but had evidently proved too cumbersome for the ex-Sultiin's retreat, and had therefore been aban- doned. Had there been any doubt as to the line of retreat, the information could have been readily ob- tained, for the way open was by the elephant-track, runniuix nearlv at right an^jles to the river towards the interior, where the cajjital of Perak — Ivinta — lay, on the river of that name — the river which, after a course nearly parallel with the Perak, empties itself into the latter near the Eesidency at Banda Baru.
This elephant-track presented plenty of obstacles to the passage of a little army ; for the jx?culiarity, already described, of the elephant, in always placing its feet in the same holes, no matter how deep they ai'c in mud and water, soon results in the formation of a scries of pits, which are almost impassable, except by the huge animals themselves, who, feeling satisfied of the safet}' of a place where jui elephant has planted his feet before, wallow through them in a slow pon- derous way that is remarkable, when firmer ground might ea.sily be found. Under the circumstances of a
MARCH TniiOUGE THE JUNCLE. 301
beaten track \)v'mg in such a deplorable state, it might be supposed tliat the troops could make a fresh one to the right or left ; but it must be thoroughly under- stood that, saving to wild animals, the jungle is im- passable, presenting as it does a dense green wall of vegetation on either side, that cannot be penetrated, on account of the manner in which the trees and undergrowth are matted and woven together by creepers and the wiry rattans. In addition, there are thorns of the most pungent kind, one of which is known bv the natives as tio-ers' claws, from its hooked and formidable nature, while to crown, or rather to form a base to, these difficulties, the soil is often one continuous marsh or swamp, covered with vivid green moss, which gives way beneath the traveller's feet.
This density of the jungle is the more insisted on here from the fact of its being explanatory of the difficulties of the troops, and to prepare the reader for the statements of the march being arrested by the Malays felling a tree or two, so that they lay across the track. To the ordinary reader, the obvious way of escape from such a difficulty seems to be to strike out into the jungle, as might be done in a forest-path in our own country ; but this can only be accom- plished by literally cutting, hacking, and clearing a way through the wilderness of vines and creepers.
Three hours after the arrival of the troops, Blanja was garrisoned, and the force, now quitting the river, took to the woods to cross to Kinta, where a
392 " SARONG ** AND "KRlS.
yevcTc liglit was anticipated, in consequence of the reports that liad come in respecting the collecting together there of disaffected chiefs, now joined by the ex-Sultan Ismail, who was stated to be sheltering the Maharajah Lela, and to have tlic intention of protect- ing him. To meet these difficulties the little land force consisted of two hundred infantry and forty artillerymen, with two 7 -pounder rifled guns, and forty seamen, with a couple of rocket tubes — the rocket being a missile that creates great consternation amongst the Malays. Consequent upon the difficulties <if the task, and the weight of the guns which had to be dragged over and through a variety of serious obstacles, only four miles were advanc. d in two hours aud a half, and at the end of this time the first symptom of the presence of the enemy was found in the shape of several trees felled across the track, inter- laced with bushes, behind which the Malays were making a stand, receivinix the advance ^juard of the force with a sharp fire of musketry, which resulted in Dr. llandall being severely wounded.
A lialt was immediately called, and while the enemy was held in play with return fuv, for the most part at a completely invisible foe, one of the 7-pounder guns was got to the front, well served, and a few rounds sent crashiufc through the trees in the direc- tion of the enemy, in company with a couple of rockets. The Malavs then retreated, and the obstacles having been hacked and cleared away, the troops,
STOCKADE-FIUirnNU. 3'J3
who liad suti'ercd no otiier casualty, proceeded, feeling their way cautiously along a jungle path that might have been easily defended by an able enemy. Nothing further occurred for a couple of hours, when the advance was again checked by trees felled across the path and another innocuous fire of musketry ; but a rocket sent hissino- throuojh the trees a second time dislodged the Malays, and the march continued for another half mile, when a strong stockade arrested further progress. This, however, the enemy did not attempt to hold, but evacuated it before it was reached by the troops, who found plenty of traces of hasty flight in the shape of water-bottles and sleeping-mats left beneath the huts which had been set up ; the idea having apparently been to turn this into what it could easily have been made — a very formidable place for defence.
The stockade having been destroyed, the advance was continued till the troojis came to a halt, having succeeded in dragging their guns and camp necessaries about eight miles through the jungle. This halt was called after every effort had been made to overtake Ismail, who was evidently only a short distance ahead, making his escape to Kinta on elephants. But the progress of our men was too slow, for they had to cany the heavy 24-pound rockets and tubes through a series of quagmires, and at last all hope of overtaking the ex-Sultan was given up for that evening. The next day was spent in getting up supplies, and on the
394 ''SARONG'* AND *'KnIS."
following day the little force marchoil to a place callccl Pappan, some six or seven miles farther — the general rate of progress through the dense jungle ]>eing only about one mile an hour.
From here ^Mr. Swettenham, in company with a friendly rajah and a body of ^lalay scouts, proceeded onward, finding the road grow worse, consisting at last, as he describes it, of nothing but logs, roots of trees, and elephant holes full of water ; but the bad ground was passed at last, and he halted a short distance from Kinta, to send forward scouts to discover the where- abouts of the enemy, and two more to give information to General Colborne of his position.
The next mominff the war-fjongs were heard close at hand, and an attack was evidently intended, when the advance guard of the forces came up, but beyond a little scattered firing nothing took place till the arrival of the main body of the troops, when rockets were discharged in the direction of Kinta and a cam- pong close at hand. These were followed by shells as soon as the gun was brought up. There was a little firing then amongst the !Malay scouts, who encountend the scattered enemy ; and the advance continuing, the force at last stood on the banks of the Kinta river, here about fifty yards in width, with the village upon an island in mid-stream. As the skirmishers advanced the enemy began firing upon them from their lelahs, l)ut these were soon silenced by the gun and rockets, and the river being waded, an entry was made into the
CAPTURi: OF h'lNTA. 395
little capital, which the soldiers found now to Ix) quite deserted, Ismail and his followers having fled up the stream — report saying that the Maharajah Lela was with him, and that the whole party were well furnished with elei)hants, the departure taking place just before the entry of the troops.
The troops then encamped in the deserted village, and on making search they found nine brass guns by way of trophies. It was soon found, however, that Ismail had contrived to take with him the whole of the Perak regalia, his purpose being apparently to make his way due north, and to cross into Patau i, on the borders of Quedah. The commanding officer had, however, though unsuccessful in capturing the ex- Sultan, the satisfoction of making this most toilsome march of three days through the jungle, and taking- possession of the capital without the loss of a single man, excepting Dr. Randall, who was wounded soon after the start from Blanja.
The troops now thoroughly occupied the country, and beyond a few^ petty attacks upon boats and isolated police by the Malays, all of which were promptly punished, no attempt was made at resist- ance ; while at the beginning of January reliable information was brought in of the whereabouts of Ismail and the Maharajah Lela, the people friendly to our Government having been stimulated by the large rewards offered for the capture of these chiefs. The report stated that Ismail was in the mountains
•SW "SARONCr' ASD '' KIlIS."
near the source of the Perak river, when an armed force of police were sent to ask the co-operation of a friendly native chief for the capture. The attack was made, hut Ismail and the greater part of his people escaped once more, though with the loss of nine followers and seventeen elephants. Four of the men were killed — one being reported a chief, and another Pandak Indut, who was believed to l)e the actual murderer of ^Ii*. Birch — while a short time later three more of the assassins were secured.
Meanwhile the proceedings in Perak had not lK*en without their effect in another part of the peninsula ; matters having assumed a threatening appearance at Sungbie Ujong, while the Malays in the neighbour- hood of our settlement at Malacca were becoming so disorderly that the Government had further to con- sider what steps should be taken for quelling the movements of the lawless in these parts.
Sunghie Ujong is a state lying to the south of Perak, from which it is separated by the state of Salangore, while on the south it nearly approaches the lx)undary of our settlement of ISIalacca.
H.M.S. Thistle was called into service, and a l)ortion of the Indian column of General Ross was detached for service in the disturbed districts, the various reports coming in being of a very alarming tendency. Colonel Anson went as the Government representative, with Mr. Neubronner as interpreter. Before their arrival, however, hostilities had com-
77//; Ti:i:iiAcnEE vallicy. :m
nit'iR'cd ; for the IVIaliiys who wcro disaffected had hct'ii collecting in armed force at a place in Sunghie Lljong, called. Terrachee, and made a threatening attack upon Mr. Daly, who is the Government Sur- veyor, and who was engaged in making certain topo- graphical researches. They confined themselves, how- ever, to threats ; but on Captain Murray, who was in charge of troops there, coming upon the scene, he was lii'ed at by the Malays. A short skirmish ensued, which resulted in Captain Murray's men running short of ammunition, and having to retire towards the Resi- dency ; when the Malays followed in a very threaten- ing manner, stockading a pass in the Terrachee valley, and also occupying a village called Faroe, a few miles distant.
During the next few days the disaffected kept increasino- in numbers and erectino- stockades, where- upon a reconnaissance was made l)y the troops under Lieutenant Hinxman, who found the enemy so strongly entrenched that he and his men were forced to retire. Later on, however, the Malays were attacked, and compelled to retreat from the vdlage of Faroe, the Lieutenant-governor of Malacca, the Hon. C. B. Flunket, being present on the occcasion, and some native police, under Bird and Skinner, who ably supported the small detachment of H.M. 10th Foot. The Malays, says Captain Murray, numbered from three to six hundred men, and were encouraged by the greatest men in the country. But in spite of
398 ''SAIiOKG'* AND "KRlS:'
tlioir number and strong defences Lieutenant Hinx- mau's small furec carried ail before it, and at the point of the bayonet drove the enemy in full rout from their stockades.
From here the enemy made for the Tcrrachce valley, where they took up a very strong position at a place called Bukit Putoos. To give some idea of the kind of country in which the troops had to operate, it must be undei*3tood that though about Paroc the land was tolerably open, though uncultivated, farther on towards Terrachee the jungle became thick, with a narrow ascending path, which gradually grew steeper, till it reached the narrow defile or pass (jf Bukit Putoos, which forms the way across the mountain. Here the path is only eighteen inches wide at the bottom, the sides of the rock being nearly perpendicular, and twenty feet high, so that it was only possible for one man to go forward at a time, and a bold enemy might have kept an army at bay. In addition there was the jungle on either side, "with sharp mountain streams to cross, rough boulders, the path of the woi-st, and the enemy in front, who had stockaded the place to the best of their abilit}' ; while at the various approaches trees were felled, an«l the way made perilous with ranjows — the spikes of bam- boo or palm these people force into the ground, with their points towards the enemy.
Upon the relief forces coming into the country, they marched for the Terrachee valley, and finally
CAPTAIN CnANNEIVti ATTACK. 390
wcR' divided into two columns, tlie first under Lieutenant-Colonel llill, who had with him Captain Stirling, R.N., Captain Murray, Assistant-resident, witli about one hundred Ghoorkhas, a naval brigade from II. M.S. Thistle, ten artillerymen, a 7-pounder sled gun, and some rockets. This little army was directed to make a detour, marching for the villages of Pantay and Terrachee, while the other division, under Lieutenant-Colonel Clay, made direct for the pass.
This latter force consisted of a detachment of H.M. 10th Foot, with artillerymen, under Captain Rigg ; Lieutenant North, R.E., with intrenching tools ; a hundred and fifty Ghoorkhas ; an Arab contingent under Captain de Fontaine ; a gun, a mortar, and some rockets.
The day after the marching of Colonel Hill's force, Colonel Clay's was set in motion, so as to attack the pass in front as soon as time had been given for the former to make a detour and come upon the enemy in the rear.
On reaching the foot of the pass, a reconnoitring party, consisting of a small body of Ghoorkhas, was despatched under Captain Channer, and after some delay he sent word back that, on account of the density of the jungle, it was impossible to discover where the stockade was situated ; when orders were sent by the commanding officer for him to go as near as possible, and endeavour to find out whether an available place
400 ''SARONG" AM) " KlilS."
could be fourul for the guus and rockets if brought to the front.
Oiptain (.'hanncT, with whom was Lieutenant North, R.E., pushed on — his route having been along the bed of a torrent till the way was blocked by felled trees. A rearguard was left to cut through these obstructions ; and nothing daunted by the rough nature of the country, Captain Channer threw out men right and left, himself leading the left body of twenty-five men. He had given up his guides, for they evidently knew nothing of the position of the enemy ; and trusting to himself, he went on working cautiously through the jungle, till he saw the enemy's smoke and fires, and soon after came upon one of the stockades, and reconnoitered the Malay defences. This jungle fort was comj)osed of logs surrounded by a palisade, and sharp spiked bamboos were ever}'- wliere about the in-ouud.
This was an important moment ; for if the Malays had caught sight of the attacking force tiie alarm would have been given at once ; but by using precau- tions, and watching the enemy, Captain Channer was able to learn the easiest way into the stockade. Then, supported by two Ghoorkhas, he leaped over the pali- sade, where he could hear the Malays talking inside — no look-out being kept, as the enemy was cooking ; and then dashing forward, followed by his two men, he boldly attacked the twenty or thirt}- who con- stituted the garrison, shot down one man with hLs
STOCKADES AT BUKIT rUTOOS. 401
jwvolver, while the two Ghoorklias eiich .sliot down theirs. Five Malays in all were killed in the fir.st instance, and the remainder of the little flankinf; party coming up, the enemy, ])elieving themselves to be surrounded, took to flight, making for two other stockades at about eighty and one hundred and sixty yards distance, the latter extending right across the pass.
The first of these — in which a 4-pounder iron gun was found — from being a defence, was now turned into an attacking point ; and Captain Channer, getting his men well under cover, opened a sharp fire on both strongholds in his front, with the effect that, after half-an-hour's fighting, the enemy evacuated the lower stockade, and soon after the rapid firing drove them out of the one that crossed the pass. As the Malays always, when they have time, carry off their dead and wounded, it was impossible to ascertain exactly the full extent of their losses ; but, from the traces left, it was evident that they must have suffered severely. On our side we had only one killed and three wounded.
The duties of Colonel Hill's little column w^ere not light, though they encountered less active opposition. Their presence had no doubt great influence in pacify- ing the district, w^hich was crossed under great diffi- culties, the Muar river having to be forded nearly twenty times, while swamps, dense jungle, and the various obstacles of a country unprovided with roads
2 D
402 ''SARONO" AND ** KRlS."
liarassc'd tlicir march. Neither had the natives been idl(! in trying to stay tlicir advance. Trees were felled wherever they could hinder the march.; the river Muar was staked with ranjows at the crossing- places ; and in the Terrachec valley a stockade had to be attacked, the Ghoorkhas taking it in the reai- after some skirmishing and a shot or two fired from the f(uus. Altofjcther it was a most arduous march — one which would have been impossible but for the information obtained from the Malay scouts by Captain ^lurray. As it was, the advance was made under most untoward circumstances, heavy rains often falling, and the troops having nightly to clear away enough of the dense jungle for them to obtain a place whereon they could bivouac. Finally they reached the rear of Bukit Putoos, and a party was sent out to arrest the defenders, who were reported to be in full retreat ; but they got clear away, escaping into the jungle, where it was impossible to pursue.
These well-directed eflurts completely broke the spirit of the disatfected in these parts, and by the time the two columns formed a conjunction, the rising may be said to have been completely at an end. But about the same time there were troubles at Ivlang, in the south of Salangore, where Mr. Davidson was the Resi- dent; the turbulent characters in these parts, think- ing this a favourable opportunity for plundering and showing their opposition to Toonkoo-dia-udin, the Viceroy of Sidangore, who holds Klang under the
THE EISINQ AT KLANO. 403
.'lutliority of I lie Sultan of that country; though a clahu f(tr it has always been set u}) by one Rajah Malubo, who was, liowever, kept from all active measures in the disturbances by being lodged under police surveillance at Singapore. In fact, some time before the rising the British government had thought it necessary to issue a warning that if Rajah Mahdie made any hostile expedition against Klang they would not feel justified in interfering to save his life, and therefore any such piece of aggression would be entirely at his own risk.
A little sharp work took place over these risings, but Mr. Davidson, the Resident, considered himself quite equal to cope with them ; and though the offer of the Arab contingent was made by the Government, he declined it, and beyond the occasional visit of a man-of-war, he received no aid whatever. The little force he raised for suppressing the marauding parties that were formed, consisted of his own faithful Malays and some Chinese miners. By the aid of these men he dispersed the lawless bands in a few vigorous attacks, with the result that he completely pacified his district, and maintained authority throughout.
In this manner were the risings in Perak and the neighbouring states effectually suppressed ; but there yet remained the punishment of the instigators of the rebellions and the murderers of Mr. Birch. Condign measures, however, w^ere adopted for this purpose, as will be stated in the following chapter.
2 D 2
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The capture of Ismail — Escape of Muharajah Lcla — Taking of the Datu Sagor — Charges against Abdulkh — Arrest of the chiefs — Their transportation — The Pcmk regalia.
Coincident with arrangements for the return of a portion of the troops, whose services were no longer needed, steps were being taken by the Government for securing the persons of the offenders who had fled from Perak ; and to effect this, one of the first things done was to communicate with the Government of the king of Siam, in one of whose dependencies — namely Patani — they had taken refuge, and to request that they might be removed into Singora, and kept there until their future should be arranged. The result of this request, as brought before the Siamese power by her Majesty's Consul-Gencral at Bankok, was that it was decided to send a gunboat to Patani, bearing a Siamese commissioner, who should take charge of any of the chiefs of Perak who should be found in Patani, or any of the Siamese provinces ; and that they should be taken to Bankok ; and such of them as were reasonably supposed to be implicated in the murder
TJIJj] OAFTURE OF ISMAIL. 105
of Mr. Birch wore to be handed over to the British government, while the remainder shoukl be kept imder siirveilhince until it was decided what should be their fate. The wdiolc of this arrangement was made by Mr. Knox, whose position was rather a deli- cate one, as not only had we no extradition treaty with Siam, but the oflfence with which the chiefs were charged was not committed on British ground.
The Eajah of Quedah, in whose state the fugitives were believed to be at times harbouring, on being communicated with, also expressed his willingness to deliver up Ismail and his followers ; and it was near his territory that the unsuccessful attempt was made to capture the cx-Sultan — the one which resulted in the death of four of his people — among whom was the Sedikah Eajah — while several were wounded, and the seventeen elephants w^ere captured.
For a whole month longer, however, Ismail and the remnant of his followers remained at liberty near the head of the Perak river; until, feeling that if they were permitted to remain unmolested in their retreat, thev would form the nucleus of a fresh disturbance, the Governor sent orders to Penang for another effort to be made from that settlement to effect the ex- Sultan's capture. The plan proposed was that, after obtaining information as to the exact whereabouts of the fugitives, three combined movements should be made — by Malays under Eajah Muda Yusuf, by men from Salama, and a force from Quedah.
■U)G "SARONO" AND '' KIlIS."
Ill accordance with these orders, an expedition started, under Mr. Hewick, the Assistant-superin- tendent of Police of Province Wellesley ; and he soon found, hy the action taken by the Patani men, that the orders of the king of Siam for the prevention of the entrance of the fugitives into his province had been stringent : but they acted in a double-edged manner ; for the instructions being to the authorities to prevent all Perak men from entering Patani terri- tory, and as there was no road from Perak to Quedah that did not pass through Patani, the whole expedi- tion, with its Perak men, was brought to a standstill. Whil(^ matters were in this state news was brought in that Ismail was wearied out and ready to give himself up, and was on the frontier waiting.
There were still some difficulties to get over, as now there was a chance of hindrance being thrown in the way of the capture ; for the Patani men showed a disposition to meddle, and sent parties out to interfere. By a little judicious management, however, Mr. Hewick, had Ismail taken to a place called Cheeah, and following him there, found him encamped in the jungle with his people, to the extent of about one hundred and seventy men, women, and children. In the interview which followed the ex-Sultan under- took to proceed quietly to Quedah, and from thence to meet the Lieutenant-Governor at Penang.
"When questioned as to his participation in the murder of ^Ir. Birch, he denied all knowledge of it.
THE CAPTURE OF ISMAIL. 407
saying that it liappc^iifd in Sultan ALchillah's tcmtory, and tlioreforc lie left it to him to inquire into the matter ; while his reason for not coming in when summoned to meet Her Majesty's Commissioner wfis that as he was starting, a rumour was brought in of the approach of an inimical rajah with a force, and not wishing to submit his wives and children to the chances and horrors of war, he had fled with them into the jungle, where he had continued roaming from place to place ever since. Mr. Hcwick states that it was perfectly evident that Ismail had no power over his chiefs, who rendered to him no respect whatever; ami in hut ])uilding, catching elephants, or other offices of a similar kind, he had to act for himself, like the rest.
By careful marches Ismail was then brought down till he met the Sultan of Quedah, whose well-armed force of about a thousand men had been so disposed in the rear of the ex-Sultan and his followers that escape was impossible, though great care was exercised not to let him know how he was surrounded. The march was afterwards continued to Qualla Muda, where the ex-Sultan, the regalia, and the chiefs and followers, to the number of eighteen, were embarked and taken to Penang, while the women and children and twenty- seven elephants were left in Quedah.
It seems that the sufferino-s of Ismail and his followers must have been very severe ; for when he surrendered he was in a destitute condition, his people
408 ''SARONG" AND "A'/?/6'."
emaciated, many of them ill, wliilc many more had been left behind in the jungle and had died off. But one of the most important of the chiefs was still at libei-ty in the person of the ]\Iaharajah Lela, who was stated to be somewhere in Upper Perak ; but neither he nor the Orang Kaya Besar was taken on that occasion, thougli the latter was willing to surrender — the Superintendent of Police being too anxious to secure the ex-Sultan and his large following.
From Penang, Ismail, with his two sons and the attendants, was sent down in II.^I.S. Ringdove to Singapore, and from thence by the same vessel to- Johore, where the Maharajah had consented to receive them ; and here they were detained on parole, with the arrangements necessary for the prevention of intrigue.
The capture of the Datu Sagor, the chief who stood by while Mr. Birch was murdered, was effected through the instrumentality of ^Ir. Swettenham, a few days before the surrender of Ismail. The Datu had- for the most part kept in hiding in the neighbourhood of Banda Baru, and he was at last captured where he had taken refuge with Sultan Abdullah at Pulo Tiga. As for the Maharajah Lela, he was still at large ; and though an effort was made to effect his capture at Kendrong, he escaped across the river into Patani, where the authorities refused to give him up to Mr. Maxwell, the Deputy-commissioner, who was in quest of Uim with a following of forty Malays. Finally-
THE MAHARAJAH LELA. 409
however lie suitcikK red with his followers, iu July, 187G, to the representatives of the Maharajah of Johore at Kota Lamah, and was conveyed to Johore Hahru, with the understanding that he was to have a fair trial; and after a week's stay he was removed to Singapore, and thence to Laroot — as the murder having taken place in Perak, it was necessary that the trial should be held in the same state.
Whatever may have been the expectations of the Malay chiefs, they had a severe lesson to learn in the proceedings taken against them by the Government. Ismail and his sons were prisoners ; the Maharajah Lek, Datu Sagor, and Pandak Indut, who had been falsely reported slain, were also under arrest, as well as several of their followers. In addition, the three men who had been seized and tried for the murder at the native court of Sultan Abdullah, were sentenced to death by Rajah Dris, the judge appointed by the Sultan ; but the Governor subsequently advised that the sentence on two of the men should be commuted to penal servitude for life.
In the trials which followed, the Maharajah Lela, Datu Sagor, and Pandak Indut were found guilty of the murder of Mr. Birch, and were hanged ; while such important evidence came out in connection with the cruel outrage as determined the Government upon requesting the attendance of Sultan Abdullah, and also of the Laksamana and the Shahbandar at Singapore, serious charges being also made against the Muntri.
no "SJ/eO.VO" ASD "KRlsr
In the protracted aiul careful inquir}' before the Commissioners a number of fjicts transpired which implicated these chiefs, and showed that they liad favoured the determination to kill the liritLsh Resi- dent and drive his staff out of the couDtr}'. In fact, that they were all in the conspirac}^ and had held meetings to discuss the question. The Sultan was charged with authorising the dee«l; with pur- chasing and supplying arms and ammunition ; with assisting the plans ; with issuing liis warrant to the Maharajah Lela for the murder; that after the murder he aided and protected this chief, and, furthermore, sent him arms and provisions to aid him in resisting the ?>ritish officers; and that he aided and protected the Datu Sagor.
These charges were generally denied by the Sultan, who asserted that the papers and instructions he was said to have issued, with their chops, or seals, were forgeries.
As an example of the superstitious nature of even the best educated ^lalays, it may be mentioned that in the evidence it was asserted that certain inwmta- tions were made at Abdullah's instigation, and that these were continued for three successive night ; on the last of which the spirit invoked declared that Mr. Birch windd be dead at the end of three months ; while other witnesses asserted that the Sultan wanted to kill Mr. Buch by sorcerj', and to injure him by put- ting poisonous plants in the place where he bathed.
ABBE ST OF TEE CHIEFS. 411
The cliarges ugiiiiist tlic ]\Iuiitri iiiid the other chiefs were of ;i simiUir character, the Muntri being accused of favouring the Resident's death, counselling the Sultan ao^ainst the British, and instiofatino: attacks upon them.
During the time occupied in the examinations connected with these inquiries by the Commissioners, Abdullah and his chiefs resided, under supervision, in Singa^iore ; and as soon as the inquiries were con- cluded, and answers received from the Home Govern- ment to the Governor's despatches, the now ex-Sultan was, with his chiefs, arrested, their case was heard, and they were finally lodged in Singapore gaol to insure their safe custody while their future was taken into consideration ; the sentence upon them being that they should be deported from the country. The Muntri received the same sentence, and orders were issued also for his arrest, w^hich w^ere fully carried out.
The circumstances of the case aofainst Sultan Ismail and his following were considered sufficient also to justify their continued detention at Johore, where the Maharajah undertook to provide against their beino; intris^ued with in connection with the future aflairs of Perak ; while for the maintenance of the various chiefs provision was arranged for out of the revenue of Perak.
In connection with these arrangements, a procla- mation was issued by Sir AVilliam Jervois, in March
412 ''SARONG'' AND '' KRiS."
of the present year (1877), abrogating that of Sir Andrew Clarke of 1874, and concluding in these worda :
Xow BE IT KNOWN TO ALL Men, that AbduUah has erased to Ijc .Sultan of IVrak, and tliat the Government of the State of Perak is, for the present, conducted l)y the Kajah Yusuf, son of the laUj Sultan Abdullah Mahomed Shall, as the Chief 2sativo authority in the State.
Itiijah Yusuf, heretofore mentioned as the Rajah Muda, was thus made ruler of Perak, the government being carried on in his name, and with the aid and advice of a Resident — Mr. Hugh Low receiving the onerous appointment. Yusuf gained the confidence of the British Government l)y the way in which he re- fused to join in the contemptible little plots of the chiefs against Mr. Birch, and also by the spirited way in which he came forward with his following of friendly i^Ialays to aid in the capture of the various fugitives, and in the pacification of the country. He is a man over the middle age, and is described as being of considerable abiUty, feared and hated by many of the chiefs, and as being of a fierce and cruel disposition ; but he was a proved man as to his loyalty ; and there being no desire on the part of Government to annex the state of Perak, his appointment was the wisest course that, under the cii'cumstances, could be pursued.
The last steps for the fuU pacification of the state had been the appointment of a Resident's guard of two hundred men, and a police force of five hundred ;
TRANSPORT A TION. 41 :{
jiud finally, in July this year, the trausportation of ox-Sultau Abdullah, and his three chiefs with their families to th(; island of Malio, one of the group of the Seychelles, in the Indian Oceanian island lying only about ten degrees north of Madagascar, the seat of the early Malay migrations. The embarkation, according to the Straits Times, of July 21st, caused but little excitement, and a guard of six police was deemed sufficient for the charge of the four chiefs and their fifty followers, principally, however, women and children — the few male servants, like the chiefs, being quite unarmed. The report adds, that the chiefs did not appear dejected or cast down, but rather "pleased with the change from prison walls to the deck of the ship."
In this case, history seems to have repeated itself. In bygone ages the ancestors of these chiefs, from their own wandering and investigating nature crossed the ocean westward to the Mauritius and Madagascar, while now they have been transported to similar westward homes, though for the purposes and at the command of the dominant power.
The Perak regalia, which was captured with ex- Sultan Ismail, consisted, besides elephants, merely of a few golden krises, swords, bells, dragons, and various gold and silver articles of a personal character.
CIIAITEII XXXV.
Hints to settlers — The climat« — Safety of life and property — Health — Diseases to piard apainst — Supplies— Sport — Food — A Christ- mas dish — Dress — ltinei*ary of the Ulu, or Upper Perak country.
Life in Pcrak, though as yet tested to a very small extent by Europeans, is very bearable, and the con- tented mind would meet with a continuous feast of enjoyment, if only by paying heed to that which is spread on all sides, without taking pains to investi- gate the wonders of the land. During the three last months of the year the rains are so heav)^ as to make an umbrella the best of friends to liim who ventures to travel, while it is almost as welcome during the heat of the day of the other nine months. The mornings and evenings are, however, deliciously cool and fresh.
It may be taken for granted that amongst the more enlightened Malays there is a disposition to welcome the English, and to avail themselves, for the benefit of their countiy, of our know- ledge, laws, and capital. To the present day the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh to the peninsula is
HINTS TO SETTLERS. 416
talked of with pleasure, and the iucidcnts iu connec- tioii tlierewitli are well remembered by the Malays, lu eouuection with this visit, it may be mcutioned that the two cocoa-nut trees obtained from Dr. Little's cocoa-nut plantation, which were with due ceremony planted by His Royal Highness in the grounds of the Government House at Singapore, are thriving well, and promise to be fine fruit-bearers.
Safety to life and property is increasing daily ; and any person who chooses to make himself acquainted with the Malay people, and by his consistent conduct shows his respect for their customs and religion, may find himself amongst stanch friends ; for any one who has read so far through these pages must by now be convinced that in character the Malay approaches far nearer to the gentleman than to the bloodthirsty savage he has been so often painted. True there is the kris always worn at the waist of his sarong, but so was the rapier worn by our gentry of a generation or two back ; and, however much we may have advanced during the past few years, no one will charge our fathers and grandfathers with being bloodthirsty because the small-sword formed a portion of their attire.
Granting this safety, then, from the natives, the next question that seems to arise is as to the noxious beasts of the country. The only one of these to be really dreaded is the tiger, and the accidents from it are far more rare than may be supposed, espe-
41G "SARONG'' AND '' KRlS."
cially siuco measures have been taken to keep down its increase. Where mishaps have occurred, they have l)cen generally amongst tlie Chinese coolies en- gaged in the plantations, or in similar work, which rendered them very much exposed to attack ; while in the course of years, as the country is opened out, these must grow less and less frequent. From serpents there is scarcely anything to fear, the python, as far as the writer knows, never attacking man, while the poisonous kinds are always ready to flee from the sound of his foot. What he has to fear from the animal world is really the attack of the tiniest of insect plagues, which up the rivers of the countrj" are indeed a pest, and require all possible caution to keep them at a distance.
The next great question is the health, and the most insidious of its assailants, jungle fever ; but taken altogether the country is salubrious, and with due precaution there is very little more to fear than one may encounter in one's own land ; in fact, many of our native ailments are escaped. There can be no doubt that several of the diseases fr<jm which the natives suffer are brought on by their own defiance of the simplest sanitary laws ; while, from his superior knowledge of such matters, the European may go comparatively scathless. At the same time, nature has undoubtedly aided the inhabitant of the Kast and of tropic lands, and protected him by the colour given to his epidermis. After violent exercise the white skin
DISEASES. 417
cools very rapidly, and causes the chills, colds, rhou- matic pains, and bowel complaints from which a European may suffer in the East ; while, when in the same heated state, the black or brown skin cools slowly, and the inflammation is averted.
Care in the choice of an abode, in cutting down the jungle, in picking out a resting-place when camp- ing out, are all conducive to the health. For when the trees are cut down the miasma that rises from the ground has nothing to absorb it ; hence the advice not to clear away the jungle without leaving the brushwood. When camping out, the writer has seen in the morning the value of his mosquito curtain, which has not only kept at bay the virulent little insects, but has acted as a purifier of the atmosphere he breathed, the outside being covered with the miasma-impregnated moisture that had arisen during the night.
It is very curious how the sicknesses of these eastern countries come about, but they may often be traced to the exhalations consequent upon animal or vegetable decay. For instance, in a coral island, the side whereon the wind blows may be perfectly healthy until the change of the monsoon, when an epidemic may ensue ; and this be entirely due to the fact that where the coral is laid bare by the receding tide, and ex- posed to the sun, it decays and produces noxious ex- halations. So long as the wind sweeps from the native village towards the exposed reef all are healthy ;
2 E
418 "SARONQ" AND ''KItlSr
])ut on the change taking place, the vapour is wafted to the dwellings of the people, an<l sickness results ; which, however, may be avoided by changing the sites of the huts. Tliis is well known to the people, who are able to escape by exercising care.
Most people who go to the Straits are affected directly after their arrival by an unpleasant cutaneous disease. The treatment of it is, however, very simple, and it is not an ailment that need be looked ujx)n with dread, a tolerably copious application of l)orax in solution being found to be a specific for its cure. Moderation and temperance are the two best aids to health in the peninsula; and these can be easily supplemented by such little matters as taking care not to "ct chilled after the toil of walking through a hot and moisture-charged atmosphere, that is often like a vapour-bath ; sleeping always with a broad w^oollen bandage round the waist, as a protection to the more vital parts of the organism — such a precau- tion l)einf' invaluable for warding]: off all attacks of a choleraic tendency. Again, it is wise when up the country to take a little quinine daily as bitters, so as to keep off fever, for a system so i>repared will often escape when a stronger constitution falls.
To settlers, travellers, or sportsmen, it should be said : Bear iu mind that the simpler your supplies are the better. The best kit consists of a waterproof sheet, a thin cork mattress, and a mosquito curtain. These are ingeniously fitted in quite a small box by the
SUPPLIES. 419
€liincse, the l)ox nftcrwards forming a pillow. For Hupplica in the way of medicine, which no one should be without, take a sufficiency of quinine, Lamplough's pyretic saline — which is invaluable — and the genuine chloroilyne. These three fcjrm a medical armoury that will keep most diseases at bay ; while, by way of fortification, a supply of brandy for medicinal use or burning should form a portion of the medical stores therein : in cases where brandy is wanting, and a good stomachic is needed, a tea made by the infusion of green ginger answers admirably. Lastly, a bottle of Lea and Perrin's Worcester sauce, which is not only a relish, but • acts when taken alone by a tra- veller wanting appetite, as a splendid stomachic, and an excellent "pick-me-up,"
For additional provisions, the modern tinned meats and soups are invaluable, affording as they do variety; while their condensed form and convenient shape for j)ackiug, afford a wonderful contrast to the old- fashioned casks of salt beef and pickled pork. The convenience of these tinned meats to a person in the jungle can hardly be realised, unless the reader were put to the test. Weary, hot, and hungry, a halt is made, and the preparation of food is a task that is trying ; but a tin of sausages is opened, a little brandy or spirit poured into a saucer, ignited, the sausage held in the flame for a few minutes, and there is a hot dish that for piquancy of flavour is indescribable, and outrivals the efi'orts of the most
2 E 2
420 "SARONG" AND " KRiS:*
famous Pall Mall chef. Tlic air and appetite may- have something to do with the enjoyment, but the simplicity of the cookin;:^ is worthy of note.
The sportsman or resident who can handle a gun can of course make ample additions to his larder from the surrounding jungle, or the swamps and lagoons, where teal and wild-duck in many varieties abound. Snipe absolutely swarm in Province Wel- lesley, and wherever there is a suitable habitat. In, the above shooting-grounds H.R.H, the Duke of Edinburgh shot more couples in the course of a few hours than have fallen to any man since. Deer are to be found, and wild-boar ham is considered by some a dainty. There are some, too, who have tried curried monkey, and declare it to be delicious ; and for those who like to make this addition to their bill of daily fare there is abundance of supply. There seems to be something repulsive in the idea of eating the little semi-human creature; but one thing in its favour is that the monkey is a fruit-eater, and in several parts of the world it is a regular object of diet.
Some rather humorous adventures were met with during the journey through the state of Perak with Sir William Jervois, and also during the time of the little war. When near the river good draughts of fish were sometimes obtained ; but upon one occasion a halt was made at night, the present supplies were exhausted, all others were at a distance — there waa
I »• I ,'W""'iiin'T*'i"
FOOD. 421
nothing to catch, notliing to shoot, and the Governor had declared that he was starving. The late Mr. Birch, who was wonderfully fertile in expedient, was at his wits' end, for there was the fire and no food to cook. Just when every one was in despair, and about to accept his fate of waiting for the arrival of supplies, there was suddenly heard a loud " baa ! "
Poor goat ! it was speaking its own sentence of death; for in a twinkling it was seized, slain, the kid- neys whipped out, roasted on a bamboo, Malay fashion, and served up to the Governor with sauce and mango pickle, to his great satisfaction, and the relief of all •concerned.
Better fare was welcomed by a party during the little war, when the writer was postmaster at Qualla Kungsa — of which station the engraving gives a very -excellent representation. The reader is looking across -the Kungsa river, which is flowing on to its confluence with the Perak — the further and laro;er of the two rivers represented. The bamboo bridge and landing- place were all arranged for the coming of the Governor. About this time, or near to it, the post-runners had to risk being shot down or speared by the inimical Malays, who were always on the watch ; but upon the occasion in question the regular communication remained perfect. The Postmaster - General at St. Martin's -le- Grand gives accounts from time to time of the remarkable things that pass through the \post — live, dead, and miscellaneous ; but few things
422 *'8AR0N0" AND '' KRlS."
that he annually reports exceed in grotesqueness the contents of the oflicial letter-shaped packet that arrived at Qualla Kungsa, sent by a lady in the Settlements to an officer upon the station. The packet was square and thick and soft, and, on being opened, proved to be a plum-pudding. It need hardly be added that the season was Christmas, though summer- like in temperature, and that the gift was eaten with delight by those who mingled with their thanks to the donor many a thought of the home beyond the seas, and the pleasant meetings and festivities in pro- gress far away.
White clothes are de rigueur here, and, with pith helmets, are universally adopted by the Europeans ; but the visitor to Perak, with its hot moist climate, must not forget the value of flannel, which is one of the greatest preservatives of European health. The pith helmets are admirably adapted for repelling heat, and their arrangements for obtaining ventilation are ex- cellent in cooling the head ; but for a European there is no better protection against the sun than a piece of plantain-leaf, big enough to go inside the hat, where its powers are almost beyond belief in keeping down the temperature of the head. So cooling are its properties that it is regularly used for outward appli- cations in the hospitals of the Settlements, while the traders adopt it for wrapping up butter, and prevent- ing it from assuming the quaUty of oil.
The fowling-pieces and rifles to be taken out by
sroiri: 423
those ulio visit Pcrak and the pcninsuhi, eitlicr as travellers or to stay, must he regulated hy individual taste ; hut it may l)e home in mind that in the Moar district, north of Johore — regarding which place, since the death of Sultan Allic, some question as to the succession has arisen — there is excellent ground for elephant-shooting, and a tiger may be occasionally bagged. They may also regulate the calibre of their pieces, and choose between the " Express " and other modern rifles in regard to the huge alligators of the rivers, many of which arc of monstrous size, and almost impenetrable hide.
In the way of settlement, steps are gradually being taken; for the laud, as has been said, offers facilities for the production of tea, spices, sugar, tobacco, indigo, and gambler, while on the other hand the mining presents abundant work for capital. The labour is the difficulty ; but this is to some extent met by the Chinese, who really are born artisans, and from their patient industry, aptness in learning, and readiness to work for moderate pay, promise to become the skilled labourers of the future.
The maps given in this work contain the moun- tains, rivers, and villages of the state, as far as it has been surveyed. It will be useful, though, to give a few further pariiculars of the country, which are founded on good native information, and will be valuable to anyone making a trip inland ; and though the rivers and places are not named in the maps,
424 **SARONO" AND "KBlS."
the writer is fully of opinion that future surveys will fonfirm this description of the Ulu — interior, or up-stream, as opposcid to the Ilir, or down- stream.
Soongliy Tekan is a little river that rises near Kinta and runs into the Soonghy or River Raya, which is a tributary of the Kinta. When leaving this part, and flying into the Ulu after the retreat from Kinta, leaves and roots of trees were all that Ismail and his fugitive subjects could get by way of supplies. Their course was from Kinta by Campong Kapayang, Qualla Tekan, the mouth of the river just named, Kantan and Kerbu at the sources of the Plus river, Kerbu, Kernel, and Balla. From Balla, Baling is easily reached, and then there is a pathway to a tributary of the l\Iuda river in the Quedah territory.
Balla and the country beyond it are, strictly speaking, in the Perak state; but the Patani people have encroached a good deal beyond their own borders ; and by moving from Kerbu to Balla, it was evident that Ismail's object was to reach the Quedah state. Patani proper is arrived at ])y journeying between the two ranges Gounong Titiwangsa and Gounong Pan- jang, where the Perak and Muda rivers rise. Boats cannot go up the river much beyond Balla ; for above the rapids called Jeram Panjang, previously men- tioned, the river Perak becomes a mere torrent. There is, however, a pathway along its bank which
TEE ULU. 426
leads to Patani ; and the natives declare that it can be reached in sevc^n or eight stages, namely :
1. Ulu Joram Panjang to Jcram Jambu.
2. Joram -laiiiLu to Koiiprinj^.
3. Kcnerin<; to Pelang (Jali (inhabited by Patani people).
4. Polang Gali to Berkuming.
5. Berkuming to Eliril. T). Ehril to Belong.
7. Belong to Jeriun, the boundary betTveen Perak and Patani.
8. Jerum to Jeruni Belakap.
Beyond Jerum Belakap are villages named Paropoh, Tul (which is inhabited by thirty or forty Siamese families), Nerwat, Hijaii, Goar Kapur, and Koon Panang, which latter is on the Buka river.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
An ascent of Mouiit Opliir from Malacca — Tlio hot springs — On the track — Chabow — Night in the jungle — Camping-out — Gounong Padang Batoo — Tondoh— Cry of the arguK-phcasant — Ledang — The view from the summit — The descent — A fine field for the naturalist.
Before closing this work it may not be uuintcresting, as so much prominence has been given to the question of ]\Iount Ophir in Malacca being in all probability the Ophir of Solomon, to give a short account of an ascent of the mountain made by the writer some years since, in company with Captain Prothero, then aicle- de-cainp to the Governor, General Cavenagh, and now superintendent of the Andaman Islands. General Cavenagh was the last Governor of the Straits Settle- ments under the Indian Government, and was a member of the Commission appointed Ijy Her Majesty to inquire into the revenue and expenditure of the Settlements prior to their transfer to the Crown.
The trip was proposed by way of variation to the monotony of a residence in Malacca. Besides which, a natural desire must be felt by every European to inspect a mountain whose name has so many historical associations connected with it, especially when so
MOUNT OPIIIR. 427
many facts suggest tlienisclvcs to the stuclent in proof of its being the genuine Opliir of >Scripture; whiki to the tra\'eller, the knowledge of the common term formerly iil)i)lied to gold workings in these parts, namely " Ophirs," and the abundance of these ancient mines about the mountain conveys no slight corroborative evidence of the truth of the question.
Mount Ophir is situated in the territory of Moar, in the middle of the peninsula, about fifty miles east of Malacca ; and at the time of the excursion to be described had not for many years been visited by Europeans. The time at the command of the little party would not allow of any lengthy preparation being made for the ascent ; but considerable facilities were atibrded by the resident Councillor of Malacca, who kindly arranged that a small body of about twenty Malays, under the Punglmlu, or head-man, of the village of Chabow, should meet the expeditionists at the above place on the day appointed for the start, to act as guides and porters, and to clear the way; the Punghulu, who was an intelligent Malay named Lavvdh, proving an excellent guide, and of great service during the trip.
The first part of the journey was performed by carriage, and the route was through a place called by the Malays Ayer Panas, or Hot Water, on account of the hot springs. These springs, with some others, are the only traces of volcanic action in the peninsula, and are of the ordinary sulphur-impregnated character.
428 '^SAROKO" AND "/TB/S."
Jiubbles of gas rise from time to timo from the bottom •of the springs, which have the character of wells, being about three feet in diameter, and twice that number of feet in depth. 'J'here are three of these ^vclls, of which the water in one is much hotter than in the others, being of so high a temperature as to be nearly unbearable, while on a level with the surface a curious deposit of a greenish hue is formed.
The view across the country was very beautiful, the eye roving over the billowy green expanse of jungle rising by slow degrees across hill after hill, till bounded by the triple-crowned heads of Mount ■Ophir, rising in softened outline far above the wooded heights. The first part of the journey had been through Chinese and Malay villages, but the country soon grew wilder and more difficult, though very en- joyable ; and pushing on, we reached Jassing soon after midday, having progressed a little over twenty miles from Malacca in our morning's run.
Beyond this, as the road lay through padi fields and water-courses, we could make no further progress, either by carriage or on ponies ; so from here our journey began in earnest upon foot ; and starting about one, we followed the track through the "s411age of Rehim, about a mile farther east. After this we found the land bei^in to rise till we reached much higher ground, and plunged at once into the dense jungle. Here all the beauty of the eastern forest was on cither side of the sun-shaded track, with the
CIIABOW. 42a
wonderfully-rich foliage flourishing in the hot steam- ing attnosi)hcre. There were, however, the accom- panying discomforts of forest travel, leeches abounding in the moist i)lacL'S, and the track not l)eing altogether free from mud. This dense jungle, which completely robs the traveller of views of the surrounding country, continued till we were about two miles from Chabow, where we were to meet our contingent of Malays and the guide.
On emerging from the forest, the track entered upon an extensive open plain, which had evidently been cleared of jungle in times long gone by ; and now full in our view lay the whole range of the mountains of Ophir piled high in our front, but, on the whole, somewhat disappointing as regarded their height.
It was four o'clock before Chabow was reached, the distance beino; about eleven miles from Jassino- progress during the latter part of the journey being naturally far more slow — mainly, though, in conse- quence of one of the heavy downpours of rain which are so common in this part of the world, and which seemed to come rolling down in rain-clouds from the mountain-sides with an impetuosity that it was hard work to withstand. On our approach, though, to Chabow, we were gladdened by the sight of the guide Punghulu Lawih, who, true to the orders he had re- ceived, came to the entrance of his campong to give us welcome, and led the way to his house, where the
430 ^'SARONQ" AND "KBlS."
whole of the front portion of his bamboo mansion was placed at the travellers' disposal, and everything possible done to render the sojourn agreeable.
The evening was spent in resting, and making every possible arrangement for the start on the morrow. Packages were disposed for carriage during the ascent, dinner was discussed, and at last, wearied out, the simple couches were sought, with the soft highly- pitched hum of mosquitos making itself heard as these insect pests prepared themselves for their noc- turnal banquet upon the tired travellers — intentions, however, carefully frustrated, by turning each couch into a fortress with covered ways formed of mosquito curtains. These effectually kept off the enemy, whose frantic dashes were all repelled, the curtains oflfering no means of ingress to the insects ; but they were powerless to ward off the insidious onslaught of a peculiarly objectionable odour, which not only per- vaded the room but soon filled the space within the curtains. This peculiarly strong and singular odour proceeded from the durian fruit in the Punghulu's house, and proved quite sufficient to banish sleep for some considerable time ; but at last weariness prevailed, and sinking into a profound slumber we managed to obtain a very fair night's rest before the call came to rise at daybreak, so as to be ready for setting off on the more arduous march at six o'clock.
Before starting came the customary squabble and
ON THE TRACK. 431
figlit. amongst the bearers for who should get the lightest and most convenient packages to carry; but these minor matters were soon put right l)y the Punghuhi, and at aljout half-past seven the expedition was under march from the campong, swelling by degrees as it progressed — for such an event was an uncommon one here — and volunteers and friends of the Malays soon increased the party from twenty to forty in number, the greater portion taking as much interest in the novel trip as so many children.
The route lay through Soonghy Dua, and the deserted village of Assahan, a ruined place, which told plainly of its ancient date in the amjile testi- mony afforded by the extensive growth of aged fruit- trees, which abounded in every direction, the clearings between indicating where had stood the houses of the bygone inhabitants of the place. Here we were re- freshed by partaking of the finest and largest mango- steen that w^e had ever seen, growing wild as it were in this desert place, lying about six miles from the campong where we had passed the night.
Passing through Assahan, the dii"ection of our route for the mountains lay fifteen degrees west of north, but about ten o'clock we had to change our way to due east, so as to make for the northern slope of the mountain, by which our ascent was to be made. Soon after this we crossed the Soonghy Chobong, a stream which divides the Malay and
4:52 ''SABONO" AND '' KRlS."
British territor}^, and at this point we changed agai» to a north-e(usterly direction.
Our intention was to reach the foot of the moun- tain before niglitfall, where we proposed to stay at a place called Gumrai, and therefore pushed on so as to be there in sufficient time to prepare our hut for the night, and arrange for the morrow's ascent. Our next place of call was to be Soonghy Aver Bangkong, which we hoped to reach ])y vigorous walking a little after noon ; but a good track assisted us no longer, for the latter part of our journey had been through high lallang grass, so that the miles became wearisome and slow, as may be surmised, from the want of progress made upon this second day. Hitlierto the track had been faii'ly visible, and offered but few obstacles to ordinary walking ; but after threading our way through the coarse stiff lallang, there was no further vestige of a pathway, the route before us now con- sisting of the sturdy brushwood of the secondary jungle — the undorgrt)wth that springs up after the primeval forest has Ijcen cleared away.
From this point the genuine hard work began ; for the Malays had to come to the front with their sword- like parangs, and hew and hack a path for us through the brush. For a good hour this work continued, the progress being diversified by a fall into a swamp now and then, when we got through the piece of wilder- ness and came upon the old track once more. The Malays then suggested that we should follow in
CAMPINO-OUT. 433
the steps of former travellers to the mountain, and encamp for the night at Ayer Bangkong, and on the left bank of the river ; but we made up our minds to push forward to the very foot of the mountain, so that an entire day could be devoted to its ascent. Ayer Bangkong was reached about the time we anticipated ; and here the advance party came suddenly upon a number of the Sakais, or Jacoons, who proved their wild nature on the instant by dashing off at full speed into the jungle, as if in terror at the sio-ht of white men and their enemies
o
the more civilised Malays.
Mooning was the next place reached, and here our course had veered to the south-east ; and pushing on, Gummi was reached by three o'clock, and preparations immediately made for making ready the little camp. And now their ability of adapting themselves to circumstances was strongly shown by the Malays, Avho in a very short time had set to work and built up a rough stage, about two feet from the ground. Upon the cross-sticks of this they laid strips of the bark of the Maranti tree, till the structure assumed the proportions of a capital sleeping-floor, over which a slight roof of sticks was tied, and again over this a couple of kadjangs, or palm-leaf mats, were thrown ; extemporising for us a capital hut or shed, sufficient to afford a good screen from the weather.
While the evening meal was being prepared over
2 p
434 "SARONO" AND '' KRlS."
the ftrc that had been lighted — a meal that was to cousist of a tin of soup and a " sudden death," other- wise a spatchcock — a look round was taken, and a waterfall was found only a short distance away ; wliile upon reaching its foot, where the glistening foam sparkled and played in rainbow tints in the afternoon lijrht, the fjcolofjical formation of the rocks over which the water sprang was examined. These proved to be of granite, with patches here and there of quartz and clay-slate. The granite largely predominated, as it did, in fact, as far down the bed of the stream as could be explored. Amongst the granite boulders were here and there deep pools, upon which the Malays made an onslaufrht, and soon succeeded in drawino: therefrom a good supply of fish. Their next visit was to the wild durian trees, from whose fruit they concocted a curry, and thus from the nature-spread bounty their wants were very easily supplied.
In spite of the rocky nature of the ground, the jungle around us was vary dense, fonning a good harbour for any of the wild beasts of the peninsula, if any were near at hand ; but no visit was antici- pated, for during the day's journey nothing had crossed the path larger than squirrels or monkeys, though every now and then we came across the tracks of elephants, rhinoceros, bears, deer, and wild-pig. These, however, were old, and the creatures that had imprinted them were most probably far away. The
OAMPINO-OUT. 435
monkeys were plentiful, mid were for the most part of the black kind, witli a white fringe of hair around the face. Lest, however, we should be troubled by noc- turnal visits in a land where the tiijer is not unkno^vn, the Malays prepared camp-fires all around us ; and choosing one of the most brisk in the centre, piled Uj> the dead wood they had gathered together, and then seated themselves in a knot, with the warm glow reddening; the bronze of their faces, and formino: a wonderfully picturesque group, as seen against the black background of that forest land.
For hours and hours these people kept up quite a little social entertainment by improvising amusing stories, which they set to their own native music, and sang aloud, after the manner of their sim-nun-dongs, to harmonious airs, the whole joining in a chorus of ''Aha!" after every line. One of the party then toning down the refrain to a lower key, went on to sing a lament that a high official had lost his leg in the wars, and could not therefore indulge in such an expedition, so as to enjoy the pleasure of a mountain climb. Then another took up the refrain in a higher key, keeping up the idea, and described how that, as this high official could not climb Mount Ophir himself, he had done the next best thing to it — he had sent his Muntri, or secretary, who would no doubt some day be a great man too.
The Malay of this improvised song may not be
2 F 2
43G *'SARONO" AND " KRiS."
without its interest to some readers, and this is the excuse for its insertion here :
Tuan Governor, dia adah satu kaki, sahja.
{CI I or us.) Alia ! aha I Dia ta boleh naik liukit sahja.
Aha ! aha 1 Pandi kcreem, dia Muiitri sahja.
Aha ! aha ! Eang jadi Governor, sundiri sahja.
AJia ! aha !
Improvising songs could not be kept up all night, and by degrees the party dropped oflf to sleep, till all was silent — a silence only broken now and then by the loud breathing of some sleeper, or the soft whispering of the wind amongst the tree-tops in the jungle. The novelty of the position, however, banished sleep from the European eyes for some time, and we lay listening till the silence was sud- denly broken by the shrill note of the coo-ow, as the natives call the argus-pheasant, whose cry seemed to rise from the jungle, and was then echoed from the surrounding hills in every direction. Tlie cry of this bird is wonderfully sharp and clear, and, as has been said, it bears a singular resemblance to the savage " coo-ey," its piercing nature being so peculiar that it can be heard at a very great distance.
Sleep overtook the whole party at last, and, for- getful of the dangers to be apprehended from wild beasts, a calm slumber was enjoyed, from which we
TEE ASCENT. 437
woke very early, quite refreshed ; and, rising, at once proceeded to reduce our luggage as much as possible, so as to get what was absolutely necessary for the rest of the journey into as small a compass as we could, it having boon decided to leave the remainder here, in charge of two or three of the older members of the party. Breakfast was then partaken of, and we made our start for the real ascent at about eight o'clock.
Just before setting oflf, that is to say about a quarter past seven, the thermometer was examined, when the mercury stood at eighty-one degrees, a great height con- sidering that the air seemed to be perceptibly colder.
The first part of the ascent lay along the left bank of the Gummi river, and proved to be toilsome and precipitous, but it was relieved every here and there by bits of level ground. Every few yards gained, though, began to show that much harder work was in store, and before long the ascent became so arduous that we could get no foothold in our boots, and these had to be discarded, the whole remaining part of the journey, ascent and descent, having to be performed with no strono;er coverino- for the feet than woollen socks. Persevering, though, we brought our hands to the help of our feet, and making use of the various creepers, gradually dragged ourselves up higher and higher, till we had topped the first of the hills which form the Ophir range, descending afterwards into the valley on the other side, which we reached about
438 *' SARONG *' AND '' KRiS."
eleven o'clock, after finding the slope on this side shelving more than on the one by which we had ascended.
From this valley, the next hill to chmb was Gounong Padang Batoo, an enormous mass of granite, offering to us almost perpendicular sides, which were in jtlaces entirely denuded of soil and vegetation. In other jiarts, though, the fissures were rich in an abun- dance of mosses, lichens, and ferns, with a shrubby plant not unlike the rhododendron in its growth. At this point the climb became so arduous that one of the party gave up, and had to relinquish the ascent, which was made the more difficult by the loads that it was necessaiy to bear. Leaving him there, we pushed on, and finally at one o'clock this granite mass was climbed.
Water was the first thing thought of, and on looking about we found to our left the bed of a mountain torrent ; but at this time of the year it contained very little water, though the well-worn stones plainly showed that in the rainy season a heavy torrent must flow through it from higher up the mountain. The moisture here, though, had its effect, for the rugged banks were fringed with stunted vegetation, but it presented a strong contrast to the lush gi'owths of the steaming jungle.
But very little time was spent here, however, for there was plenty of arduous work before us, and tramping on we reached Gounong Tondoh about half-
VIEW FROM Till': SUmriT. 439
past two, with the European part of our little expedi- tion very much cxliaustccl ; for tlic mountain here was very preciiDitous, and step after step could only be won by grasping the trees, shrubs, and climbers, which very fortunately lay ready to hand. At the summit of this mountain is a small plateau some thirty square yards in area, and covered with dense scrub, a few fir trees, and the vegetation peculiar to such altitudes. From here there was a good view of the work yet to be done, the triple peaks of the mountain being visible — Gounong Ledang, the highest, rising very abruptly between the other two.
A rest was however necessary before attempting further progress, and this having been taken, a fresh start was made, with a short descent ; and then began a sheer scramble and climb up the face of Gounong Ledang, holding on by points, roots, moss, anything that ojQfered itself to the grasp, till at last, just at four o'clock, we reached the summit of the Ophir range, completely fagged ; for the thermometer, when exposed, even at this altitude, registered ninety-six degrees. The crest of the mountain is formed of one laro^e overhang- ing block of granite, called by the natives Batoo Sardung. The mass is about twenty-five feet high, and its over- hanging side ofi'ered a fair amount of shelter to our party, for we had determined upon spending the night upon the summit.
The view from this point is grand and extensive, but is on the whole monotonous, on account of the
440 "8AR0N0*' AND *'KRlS:'
extent of jun/^lc iipou whicli the eye rests, the billowy waves rolling off mile aftor mile in every direction. Here and there, however, the landscape was relieved by the vivid green of the clearings, where the rice grew in its delicate luxnriance. Moar, Rumbowe, Jompole, Pahang, all lay in the distance as we turned from side to side ; while far away to the west was Malacca, with the sea-coast, the Water islands, and Salangore.
At length, having satiated ourselves with the view of mountain, jungle, plain, and winding river, our attention was directed to the little plateau upon which we stood, and the great block of granite, upon which former travellers had carved the initials : " W. F.," "W. T. L," and "T. B." Then came the prepara- tions for encamping for the night. This proved by comparison rather cold ; for the thermometer fell rapidly, and at sunrise it only marked sixty-two degrees, having probably been some degrees lower during the night. On rising, the fact was announced that scarcely any water was to be obtained on the summit ; so, welcome as it would have been, the Malays had to postpone the preparation of breakfast until a descent had been made as far as Gounong Padang Batoo, the great granite mass we passed over on our w\ay up. This want quickened the return, for, arduous as had been the climb up, the descent was comparatively easy, and we made such progress that Padang Batoo was reached by half-past seven ;
THE DESCENT. 441
and the meal liaving been prepared, and a short halt made, we continued our i)rogress down the mountain, and gained our first camping-ground at Gummi by half-past twelve.
At this point we rejoined the portion of the party who had found the ascent too arduous, with the little camp looking very welcome after the toil of the last twenty-four hours. It was determined to proceed no farther that day, and we remained here for the night, so as to be fresh for the long march on the morrow ; when, starting early, we made a double journey to Aycr Panas, through Chabow and Jassing, parting from our Malay com^^anions at their campong, where they had met us on our w^ay. They had proved very friendly and helpful, and parted from us with plenty of good Avishes expressed on either side.
Ayer Panas was reached at seven in the evening, and we proceeded to the Government bungaloh there, where we put up, and restored ourselves wonderfully after the long day's march by indulging in a bath in the hot springs of the village, the effect of which upon our aching limbs was almost wonderful. The follow- ing morning saw us back in jMalacca.
By a careful comparison of two aneroid barometers on the summit of Mount Ophir, we made the height above the sea-level to be 4000 feet — a height which does not correspond with that given by New- bold, who places it at 5693 feet, while Crawfurd
442 "SAROXG" AND "A'7?7.S."
mves it as 4300. Mr. AVallace, however, who ascended the mountain some years previous to our own expedition, gives precisely the same result as ourselves.
Futiu'c travellers who may wish to climb Iklount Ophir are recommended to make the attempt on the north side ; to post ponies to Jassing from Malacca ; sleep the first night at Chabow, and procure the aid of the Punghulu of that place, who will provide a good guide and coolies, at the rate of twenty-five cents a day. The second night should be passed at Gummi, and the third at Gounong Padang Batoo, where there is a sufficiency of water ; while Gounong Ledang, the highest peak of Opliir, could be leisurely visited the next day.
This short account of a hasty trip was written merely with the view of affording information to those who might wish to spend ten days pleasantly at Malacca. Our visit was much too hurried to admit of more than a mere cursory inspection of the countr}', but it was sufficient to give evidence that a more leisurely examination of the many points of interest which present themselves would fully repay those who commanded plenty of time to attempt the ascent. The interest that is sure to be taken in the endless traces, round the foot, of gold workings — some of which are modern, but many exliibiting traces of the greatest antiquity — affords plenty of food for considera-
FIELD FOB TEE NATURALIST. 443
tioii as to Avlien the .search for the precious metal was first commenced. To the naturaHst generally, what- ever may be his particular study — Ijotany, geology, or zoology — there would appear to be a very wide field for research.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The future of Perak — Capital and labour — Advance in civilisation — The food-supply — Convict labour — A Malay saying— Policy with the people — Civilised Malays — Sir James Brooke — "NVheelcr Woodford Birch.
In treating of the future of Perak many questions of policy arise, and after all, no single one is equal to that of precedent ; for in the past we have mapped out for our guidance the smooth waters and the stormy seas, with the various rocks that have been the cause of many a WTeck. It must not be supposed, though, that it is intended here to inculcate solely the oldest and most anti-progi'cssive policy ; for in manag- ing fresh people, fresh plans must be grafted upon the old, so as to suit the circumstances of the case. There is a great deal then to do for Perak : and first and foremost must be the insunng to the country of a good government, giving safety to the humblest coolie therein, as well as protection to those who bring in their property. By this means European capital and Chinese labour will open out the whole peninsula ; a country which, squai'e mile for square mile, is one of
X^^y^/'OJi
THE PUESENT KULER OF PERAK— RAJAH yUSUP— AND HIS TWO SONS.
CAPITAL AND LABOUR. UG
tlie richest in mineral produce in the whole world. It is only in the course of time that its vast undeveloped resources can be worked ; but with this gradually in- creasing prosperity in the one state, a steady im- provement in the systems of the others must follow, so that in time the peninsula may become one vast field of British commerce. It is even possible, and would probably tend greatly to the development of trade, if in the future efforts were made to try and open up a route to China through Siam, lying, as it does, between the peninsula and that vast empire ; while already it has been proposed to cut through the Isthmus of Era, which forms the neck, and so to secure water communication between the Bay of Bcncjal and the Gulf of Siam.
At the present time the cupidity of their chiefs, and the fear of exciting their jealousy, prevent the Malays from attempting to improve their condition, or raising any structure better than the ordinary hut. They grow just sufiicient for their wants, acquire one or two buffaloes ; and it is only when they get near the to^vns, and under the salutary British rule, that they attain to a position in any way resembling comfort ; and doubtless this oppression has much to do with the careless indolent habits of too many of the people. That they approve of the protection and example of British rule is constantly being shown. Already in Laroot cases are tried magisterially, and there is a well-built prison to confine offenders ; while the people
446 *'8AB0NG" AND *'KRlS:'
gladly seek the court, because they feel sure of justice — a something that they find as novel as it is Ijcneficial to them all. Again, they must see for themselves that they, the Malays of Perak, suffer by comparison with their neighbours of Province Wclleslcy, who, ex- isting under British rule, are better fed, and live in peace and content. A great deal may be done by encoura<Tiuf' them to contribute to the resources of
o o
their own country by various agricultural pursuits, and by securing to them more freedom under their chiefs. By this means a sure, even though slow, advance may be made ; and one certainly more ad- vantageous to the country than a wholesale annexa- tion, and bringing the territory under British rule.
But much has yet to be done by the Government, who will have to give attention to the food-supply of the country before very long. Then the works connected with irrigation and water-supply for other purposes will have to be taken in hand. Water would bring many parts of Malacca into value, by rendering the barren fertile ; and though some attention has been given to the economical use of water in the mines of Perak, it will have to be further considered when the mines come to be extended. Fortunately however the water is there ; it is only the question of storing and directing that has to be dealt with.
A great step in the direction of settling Perak might have been taken most advantageously by the Oovernment in encouraging the Indian convicts, now
CONVICT LABOUR. U7
on ticket-of-lcavc nt Siugaporc, to go up the couutr}', furnisliiiig them with money for the purpose, and giving them tracts of hind to cultivate. For the most part these men are agriculturists or herdsmen ; and by giving these settlers a start a great deal would have been done to render them useful to the state, and give additional security to life ; while in making the place better, they would have been forming a nucleus to which there would have been some encourac^cment for other people to flock. As it is, there is a natural re- luctance amongst those who have all the desire to settle to go and make themselves the pioneers of the new civilisation. These convicts, by the way, are the remainder left after the cessation of the receipt of prisoners at Singapore ten years ago. Many of them are Madrassees or Klings, and are now, for the most part, decent people, to whom the character of criminal attaches merely as connected with old offences, expiated, and to a o;reat extent condoned.
As it has taken time for the Malays who live under our government in the Settlements to become acquainted with the justice of our laws, and the firm and equitable collection of the revenue, with protec- tion to life and property religiously insured on all hands, so must we expect that in Perak, and such other native states as we may take under our protec- tion, there must be a great deal of tedious delay before we shall find the mass of the chiefs and people yield- ing due respect to the laws and institutions which are
448 '*SABONO" AND '* KBlS."
so adverse to their own, and which strike at the root of the profit and advantage which accrue to them as gained by fraud and oppression. It requires a display of great judgment, with a large amount of temper and patience, on the part of those who are deputed to the carrying out of these important duties ; so that more by example and suasion, than by the exercise of coer- cion, they should carry on their intercourse with the Malays.
According to the Malay saying — nanti-paUa-han — the lizard gives the fly time to say its prayers before he makes his final spring to devour his prey ; and setting aside the seizure of the prey, this must be our policy with the Malays; we must give them time — deal with them firmly but gently, and all will be well. It may be argued that we gave the Turks time, and what has been the result ? If we had kept them to their Constitution — which, it is true, was given under pressure — it is possible that there would not have been this bloodshed. The Malays have been punished for their gross outrage ; and this being at an end, now what is necessary is to insure them good government, and then — give them time, when there is no fear but that in Perak and other states we may have as loyal and trustworthy a set of people as now exist in Province Wollesley and ]Malacca, and in the towns of Singapore and Pcnang.
By encouragement and teaching, the Malays are
POLICY Wl'l'll THE PEOPLE. 449
not incapable of being led on to industrious pursuitH ; but even in this tlic giving-time policy should be adopted, and they should at first be allowed to derive profit from their produce in the way that comes most natural to them, and in accordance with their customs for generations past. There exists no reason why the Malay should not become in all points a good citizen ; and though he may not possess the native intelligence of the Chinese as a trader and artisan, nor the shrewd cleverness of the Klino- in his business
o
and monetary transactions, he will be found no whit behind them in agricultural pursuits ; and both in Perak and elsewhere, as he gradually learns the value of our institutions, he will follow in the foot- steps of those of his countrymen who are now our fellow-subjects, and than whom none could be more loyal and devoted to the British Crown.
It is questionable whether great blame does not attach to us as a nation for the little we have done during our long occupation of the settlements of Penang, Malacca, and Singapore, towards the pacifica- tion and improvement of the states on the peninsula. We have been too often content to merely draw from them the products that suit us in trade, w^hile so long as the commerce was in a flourishing condition, the improvement of the people and the introduction of the arts of civilisation w^ere neoflected. We have perhaps held back on political grounds, and from
2 a
450 *' SARONG** AND " KRiS.**
the fear that if wc became entangled in the " native question," we should either have to retreat with loss of prestige, or have to carry out a policy which would drive out the native chiefs and government, but would necessarily only be effected by resort to arms, or at least by a display of force which would either cast a burden upon the Settlements which they could ill afford, or fall upon the imperial revenues — a state of affairs to which the British taxjjayer would readily object. The medium poUcy of placing an English Resident at the native courts, so common on the continent of India, was never undertaken, singularly enough, when the Settlements were under Indian rule ; and when attempted but two years ago in Perak led to disastrous consequences for the time, the out- come of causes which were, however, prevent ible. In Salangore, on the contrary, as in other states, it has hitherto been continued with marked success; and if in the future we are judicious, and avoid taking steps which might lead the people to believe that we intended to meddle with their established cus- toms— points upon which they are extremely jealous of interference — the resident system will doubtless be carried on in Perak with equally good results.
The effect of such a mild form of policy will not only be vastly advantageous to ourselves, in bringing a large mass of people into a more civilised state, and opening up to our commerce the mineral and other
STB JAMES BROOKE. 451
wealth of this country ; but wc .shall be able to take to ourselves the satisfaction of having at least clone our duty in Iningiug no inconsiderable portion of the earth's surface under the benign influence of British rule, and within the reach of that Christian truth without which no people can be fully civilised, and the spread of whose knowledge it is Britain's privilege and glory to foster and encourage.
In the earlier chapters of this work allusion was made to the failure of Mr. Muntinglie's commission at Palombang, which was due to his want of knowledge of the Malay character, and too great eagerness to en- force a novel system that, though perhaps admirable in Java, was utterly unsuited to the people amongst whom he wished it to take root. Contrast with this the excellent management, in his successful dealing with the people, of one whom the writer is proud of being able to say he could call a friend — the late Sir James Brooke, of Sarawak. Singly and unaided did this English gentleman, animated from first to last by the highest motives, gain the respect and afi"ection of ■every Malay with whom he was brought in contact, both among the chiefs and the people. Fear of Mm existed only in the hearts of those who, in •direct opposition to his mild counsel and sugges- tions, persistently endeavoured to maintain a system of cruel piracy and oppression. Even, however, in •dealing with these last he tempered his justice with
452 "SAROXQ" AND "KRiS."
mercy, knowing full well that time is necessary for the eradication of a national vice ; and that it would be simple madness to attempt to change, as by the touch of a wizard's wand, that which had been the growth of centuries — in other words, the whole character of a nation.
Sir Andrew Clarke, when Governor of the Straits Settlements, was animated by a similar spirit, and, by his wise policy, paved the way for peace and good government in Perak ; and had he not been sum- moned away to a higher appointment, it is probable that many of the troubles in Perak would not have had place. He was possessed of a wonderful faculty of dealing with the natives, whom he won to his side by his frankness and openness of manner, tlirough which, though, always shone firmness of character, mingled with a high sense of justice, and that which is due from man to man. He was in favour of the Resi- dent principle — the presence with a native ruler of one who would advise and lead towards right, without seeming to control, and always exerting Ids influence for good with both chiefs and people.
This is undoubtedly the course that should be followed out, and the various chiefs taught how to increase the value of their country by good govern- ment and improvement, as they invited co-operation by making life and property safe. For, given such a country and such a people, by good advice, an ad-
WHEELER WOODFORD BIRCU. 453
ministration may be brouglit about similar to those of Johore and Quedali, where, from their contiguity to our civilisation, this has permeated their own ; and in consequence we have native princes ruling by our laws, and keeping down the evil principles of their states, with magistrates, stations, regular trials, and convict gaols, while on the other hand peace and pros- perity have a permanent reign. This has been the result of time, and of letting the people see and learn the value of our institutions, the chiefs' power increasing with the progress of their land.
In conclusion, it must never be forgotten that whatever may be the future of Perak, and however great a position it may reach in the scale of civilised countries, it was the death of one man that first drew the attention of our home Government fully to the state for its development and ultimate prosperity. For these, he who literally acted as the pioneer of its civilisation unceasingly toiled ; falling, though, in the dawning of that day of progress for which he had so earnestly laboured, when the bright sun of western light was beginning to brighten the waving palms of this far distant forest land. Though his family will never cease to bewail his loss, there is a mournful satisfaction in knowing that he laid the foundation of a better government in Perak ; and that as our influence over the peninsula still further extends, his memory will ever be associated with the advance and
4M.
**8AB0Na" AND ^'KBW
civilisiitiou of this portiou of Her l^Iajesty's domains ; while those who loved him can always BJiy — He had the progress of Perak thoroughly at lieart, and its prosperity was the work (»f
.]. Wheeler Woodford Birch.
\
FINIS.
CTiKT.w oicvnia akd kvaxs, t.BTSTA.L TALACK recas.
*r.^
m
>'^tjt-j
4.n4 ''SARONG" AND ''KlilS."
civilisjition of this jwrtion of Her IMajesty's domains ; while those who loved him can always say — ifc had the progi'css of I'erak thoroughly at lieart, and its prosperity was the work of
J. Wheeler AVoodford Birch.
FINIS.
DICKEXa AXD BTAXS, I'RTBTAL TAUkC* TtLt
ZifTuliin, Tinaf^'.Brothnrv.
Qii.-ilhi Minh
I'-'Tik
Taiyoiu) Pit
W^mmmiati^'
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