IS-NRLF

Price— ONE SHILLING.

Pet Rabbits

CA

. . . BY . .

GEORC

GARDfi

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

ctical Guide
nagement of
, and ]Mice»

OTHER MANUALS FOR PET KEEPERS;

The Canary Manual, by C. A. HOUSE, price 1/-
Canary Breeding for Beginners, by C. ST. JOHN, price 6d.
Foreign Birds for Beginners, by WESLEY T. PAGE, price 1/-
THE BRITISH BIRD MANUAL, by H. NORMAN (2 parts) 1 /- each.

Published by F. CARL.^154, Fleet Street, London.

PET RABBITS,
CAVIES AND MICE

A COMPLETE HANDBOOK TO THE
PROPER MANAGEMENT OF THESE
DOMESTIC FAVOURITES.

BY

GEORGE GARDNER.

•— iL

MANY IL L USTRA TIONS.

Published by F. CARL, 154, Fleet Street, London.

CONTENTS.

RABBITS.

CHAPTER I.

HOUSING ...
FEEDING ...

CHAPTER II.
BREEDING — How TO PROCEED
EXHIBITING

CHAPTER III.

DISEASES, MOULTING, DIARRHCEA, INFLAMMA-
TION, COSTIVENESS, TUMOURS, ETC., WlND,
STOMACH AILMENTS, SNUFFLES, ETC.

KEEPING RABBITS FOR PROFIT

CHAPTER IV.

PRINCIPAL VARIETIES

CAVIES.

HOUSING, ETC.
FEEDING ...
BREEDING
EXHIBITING
DISEASES ...
KEEPING FOR PROFIT

CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER II.

PRINCIPAL VARIETIES
MICE.

HOUSING ...
FEEDING . . .
BREEDING
EXHIBITING
DISEASES .

CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER II.

PRINCIPAL VARIETIES

PAGE.

7
10

14
18

22 tO 27

27

M37Q26S

60
63

65

70
7i

78

8i
83
84

87

PREFACE.

The object of the Author of " Pet Rabbits, Cavies,
and Mice" has been to provide in simple, handy form
a Complete Manual for the tyro who is contemplating
" taking up" the keeping of any of these furry
favourites as a hobby. The various diseases to which
they are subject are more or less fully dealt with, and
the aspect of profit in their cultivation is not lost
sight of. The Exhibition side of the hobby is also
touched on, and amateur fur fanciers will read with
pleasure and profit to themselves Mr. GARDNER'S
lucid and practical observations — based on a life-time's
active association with the various hobbies as Judge,
Expert, and Fancy Journalist.

List of Illustrations.

Facing Page.

Mrs. A. Brazier's Silver Grey, Champion

"P.B." 35

Mr. W. Barton's Flemish Giant, Champion

"Comrie Lad." ... ... ... 46

Mr. C. Burton's Blue and Tan, Champion

"Earl of Essex." ... ... ... 52

Messrs. W. W. Ward and Son's Tortoise

and White Cavy, Champion "Dolly." 76

CHAPTER I.

RABBITS.

HOUSING.

THE housing of live stock of any kind depends largely,
in arrangement, upon the space at disposal. Rabbits
especially need plenty of fresh air, although there is one
variety of these animals which it is urged cannot be bred
to perfection without being kept in such an equal
temperature as can never be obtained under natural
conditions. That variety is the lop-eared rabbit, about
which we shall give special directions. We favour out-
door hutches properly protected from the weather, i.e.,
kept dry. The nature of the rabbit is such that it can
bear very cold weather, and take no hurt, if it is kept
dry and free from draughty conditions. Dampness of
its dwelling place or draughtiness will soon prove fatal.
Against a fairly high wall, with a waterproof roof over
the hutches, wide enough to prevent rain or snow from
beating or drifting under is a good place, affording fresh
air in plenty and also providing shelter for the rabbits
and those who attend to them in inclement weather.
Hutches should always be stacked well clear of the
ground — say 2 feet, and should also be kept the same
distance from the roof, as well as standing a little away
from the wall, and with air space between each. This
will give opportunity for a continual current of fresh
air to get all round them, and is a great help towards
retaining dry and healthy surroundings. Manv of
those who keep rabbits have either what are called sheds
or out-houses at their disposal. Some have stables,
others lofts over the same. Others, who go in for rabbit
keeping as a business as well as a pastime, have
rabbitries specially constructed. No matter which
course is followed, we favour plenty of light and cheer-
ful conditions, and Nature demands a liberal supply of
ventilation to permit of the ingress of fresh air and the
egress of foul, to and from any building in which rabbits

8 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

are kept. If kept out-of-doors under a roof, open at the
front, it will be advisable to try and choose a place where
the most stormy weather conditions can be avoided; and
measures must be taken to protect the hutch fronts from
the beating of rain in winter or the fierce rays of the sun
in summer. The size of the hutches in which rabbits
are kept, depends upon the variety selected. There are
exceptions. Generally speaking a box about 2ft. 6in.
long by 20 inches from back to front, and 18 inches high
will be ample for a single rabbit. Of course if breeding
is engaged in, the hutch should be quite eighteen inches
longer, and that will give room for a bed or place for
kindling to be parted off. The varieties needing larger
hutches are Belgian hares, which must have plenty of
room, or it impedes the attainment of many special
points of excellence, such as length of limbs and general
raciness. Any reasonable expenditure of hutch room
will not be lost on this variety. We have known some
breeders give Belgian hares the run of a loft, and the
results, so far as length, style, and raciness of the animal
are concerned, have been marvellous, especially amongst
growing young stock. Flemish Giants, which ought
never to be less than nibs, to i3lbs. in weight to satisfy
the standard, must have large hutches. Angoras, too,
need a hutch quite 3 feet long, with additional length for
breeding purposes. It is not the height that affects so
much, provided there is space on the floor of the hutcn.
English are another kind that need a little larger hutch
than the smaller breeds, such as Dutch and Silvers. We
would like to emphasise, on the question of housing, that
no matter whether rabbits are kept outdoors or in, the
single hutch or stacks of hutches should always be so
placed as to provide for an air-current all round them,
while being kept religiously free from draught.
Hutches are easily made. A box of the size required
can be fitted with a front by the amateur carpenter in a
very short time. Of course some prefer joiner-made
hutches of uniform pattern, elaborately finished, but
that is not absolutely necessary. That is more for
appearance than utility. If the rabbits are kept indoors,
the hutch fronts can be made more open than those out-
of-doors. That means a more liberal use of wire
netting. But whether kept out-of-doors or in, narrow
mesh (say about } inch) netting is always best, as it

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. g

protects the rabbits from cats, rats, or similar animals.
The bedding of rabbits of any breed is a very important
matter, and comes under the category of housing.
Pitch-pine sawdust is best for scattering on the floors of
hutches, and if that is not procurable, then any other
kind of white sawdust will do. The object of this is
sweetness and dryness. Sawdust has deodorent qualities,
and it is dry. Further, it absorbs the moisture of urine,
etc., and keeps rabbits dry footed and clean coated. We
may call attention to a very important matter here, as
regards exhibition varieties. If rabbits are allowed to
move about in the moisture of their own creating, the
fur at the hocks and haunches will gradually turn
brown or rusty, and this is a great fault in the show pen.
Sawdust goes far to prevent this. And further, it is
easier to clean rabbit hutches out when the floors are
kept covered with sawdust bedding. The cleaning pro-
cess should be engaged in at least once a week. Twice
would be better. And in the season when there is a
plentiful supply of succulent green food, we keep a suit-
able shovel and take out the urine-saturated sawdust
every morning. It spells comfort to the animals and
sweeter surroundings to those who come in contact with
the hutches. It is possible, with the use of sawdust
bedding, care, and attention, to keep many rabbits so
that visitors could not detect their presence. Over the
sawdust, in winter, hay may be placed, or straw for the
long-coated breeds. Hay will not do for these latter;
it entangles in their fur and mats it. In providing
boxes for hutches, it will give satisfaction to the eye if,
when several are in use, they are all selected of the same
size and pattern. Uniformity (although we humbly
confess we did not practice it, but felt that the quality
of the stock inside the hutches was of more importance
than the outside appearance of the boxes) is of consider-
able effect to the visitor. We have had more than one,
or one dozen, prize winners housed in sugar boxes, fitted
up by the expenditure of a little labour. We have,
on the other hand, seen almost palatial rabbitries, the
floors of which have been almost holy ground to their
owners, and even then have cast our thoughts back to
the contents of our sugar boxes, and been easy in mind
as to results at the coming shows. For all that, we never
discourage the expenditure of a little money, or of

I0 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

thought or labour on a rabbitry or hutches, because it
must tend to the comfort of the animals, which we love.
Some fanciers favour conditions of semi-darkness for
rabbits, as they say that certain varieties can only be got
to perfection under such conditions. Be that as it may,
we prefer cheerful conditions, with light and air. Who
is it that thinks a rabbit does not enjoy the sunshine ?
Let them watch a litter of young rabbits basking in it.
No doubt sun, in its fierceness, does bleach the colour,
but the rabbit keeper can provide light and cheerfulness
without allowing the full glare of the sun to play on the
rabbits.

FEEDING.

The rural and primitive way of feeding rabbits was
very simple. In our boyhood it used to be bran and
oats and green food, with a little hay. The same role
can be pursued now with equal safety and success in
the case of a pet rabbit. But with exhibition stock the
procedure is altered. And even then systems differ
widely, so that it will be well if we just let a few of the
breeders of different varieties speak for themselves on the
subject. It will do no harm, and will not destroy the
idea, if we give our own in brief. It is as follows:—
Morning feed, green food. Cauliflower leaves (if ob-
tainable); failing these, and always when procurable,
tares, veitches, or clover, green, but dry. All green food
must be given dry to ensure safety to the rabbits. We
emphasize tares, vetches, and clover, because they are
so valuable. Our young stock always thrive twice as
well when this green food is plentiful. Men bring it
round, in London, in carts, and sell it at about 2d. a
bundle. Failing either cauliflower leaves, tares,
veitches, or clover, we give carrots or swedes; or, if
obtainable, chicory or a little dandelion occasionally.
Cabbage leaves we try and avoid, if possible. They are
coarse and often purging. We have used water in
preference. Some people use water regularly in the hot
weather. Milk is a good thing to use in a rabbitry, but it
is best to sterilize it first by boiling, as there can be no
doubt this process destroys all risk of disease, or the
introduction of parasites, such as worms. Generally,
for exhibition stock, milk is a good conditioner and
materially improves the gloss on the coat. In feeding

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. u

Belgian Hares many breeders give meal mashes in the
morning. A splendid tonic, and one that well rewards
the outlay on Belgian Hares for example, is a mash of
equal parts barley meal and toppings, or pollard. To
this add a little soaked oil cake, and some boiled linseed
that has stood and got cold. Only sufficient to make the
food crumbly moist is needed. A good plan is to soak
the whole linseed for a few hours in cold water and then
boil it. Result, when cold, a thick jelly. Give this,
mixed with meal and cake, about two mornings a week.
The rabbits will enjoy it and marvellous results in flesh
and glossiness of coat will ensue. Such a mixture acts
as a fine pick-me-up and builder-up of rabbits of any
breed. Speaking of the mode of feeding Silver Greys,
Mr. A. Brazier, a long time breeder of the variety
says- — "This is entirely a matter which must be
decided by the locality in which one lives. The great
thing is discretion as to how it is given. Almost any
green food will do, so long as it is fresh and shows no
sign of decay in any part. But one great thing to
observe is — always let the rabbits be supplied with good
sweet meadow hay, so that they can pick up a bit of
something sweet, and that will often counteract any ill-
effects that may have arisen through eating a bit of bad
green stuff. The best green foods I can mention are
chicory, dandelion, tares or veitches, comfrey, and hog-
weed in the spring; but living in London, where often
the supply of green food is limited, I have even had to
resort to onion leaves and radish tops, and all has gone
well." We propose to append the views of other
breeders on the subject of feeding, as this is a point of
the utmost concern in rabbit keeping, and, after the
maxim—" many men, many minds," so hints that are
useful can be gathered from the " multitude of counse1-
lors." It will be safe to take it for granted that the
staple food used by one and all is good sound, heavy,
clean, sweet oats, added to meadow and clover hay — the
former for warmth in winter as well as food, and the
latter as a capital food. Too much oversight cannot be
expended on the condition and quality of the food
supplied. Many condiments are employed, such as
Spratt's Rabbit Food, Thorley's Spice, crushed oil cake,
Rabena, etc., etc. But, after all, these are not staple
foods, and that is what mostly concerns our purpose in

12 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

this chapter. Another point of interest in relation to
feeding is the manner in which it is supplied to the
stock. Some breeders are careless, and throw the food
in in abundance, never removing the stale bits. That
is a bad plan in any case, but especially if the hutches
are not kept scrupulously clean and free from urine.
Just imagine pieces of bread thrown in upon a filthy and
wet hutch floor, and being allowed to saturate with filth !
Next, imagine a hungry rabbit eating such ! Bread
crusts are a delightful change, and much enjoyed, but
not when mildewed or soaked in excreta and urine ! We
have more frequently placed the oats on the floor than
in food pans, but always took good care to see that the
floor was dry and clean. It does not hurt a rabbit to
search for an oat on a hutch floor. There are plenty of
firms who manufacture and supply earthen and terra-
cotta food troughs and water pans, and these are fre-
quently advertised by those supplying such requisites
in the rabbit, bird, and poultry world. It is astonishing
how small a matter of concern this is to the breeder,
whose chief aim is the quality of his food, cleanliness,
and the high standard of his stock. Very few of the
most successful breeders bother about effect either in
hutches or fitments. Their primary study is perfection
of their specimens. But you will never catch them
napping over the quality of the food they give to their
stock. In the matter of corn food a small percentage
of wheat with the bulk of the oat supply is a help to
exhibition stock; and in this connection, if a breeder
happens to lose a rabbit by death, it is more satisfaction
to know that such rabbit died fat than thin. Do not
overfeed, but observe regularity both in quantity and
times of giving it. Do not imagine that rabbits need
nothing else but green food. Do not think they will
thrive on oats alone. Do not be a crank, but let reason
have her voice, and learn as much as you can from
everyone who keeps a rabbit. On the subject of feed-
ing Flemish Giants — and these want some feeding — Mr.
W. Barton says: — " I feed twice a day — morning and
evening — with oats and clover, and three times daily
with green food of different varieties. I also give a
meal mash three times a week." Speaking of the feed-
ing of Himalayans, Mr. Hearnden says: — "After my
long experience I do not find it essential to feed on soft
food. I have always found good sound white Scotch

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. I3

oats (42lbs. to the bushel) to which is added a small
percentage of the best wheat, the only solid food
required. To this I add plenty of chicory, dandelion,
swedes, etc. I do not find carrots suitable for this
variety when you are getting them ready for the show
pen." In feeding English, Mr. T. F. Linley proceeds
as follows: — "Green food in the morning, and whole
oats and grey peas at night. Turnips, clover, cauli-
flower leaves, carrots, etc., when in season, and parsley.
Give also plenty of sweet old hay." A very old and
successful breeder of Dutch rabbits gives it as his
opinion that the adults of this variety only require feed-
ing once a day during the summer, but young stock
and breeding does twice a day. In Winter, feed twice
a day, but not with corn. Give green food or roots and
a good handful of hay or clover in the morning; and
in the evening corn and green food. As a change diet,
give now and then, besides oats, a little wheat and
barley, also a few grey peas that have been soaked for
24 hours. These are a fine pick-me-up. Soft food is
unnecessary for Dutch, except about once a week. You
don't want to get this variety too fat and big, as there is
a standard weight limit, and most judges are dead
against a big Dutch. Only give sufficient food for a
meal. It is a bad plan to over-feed so as to have corn
left in the feeding troughs. A drink of water in the
hutches is always useful if not essential. It is not a bad
plan to watch carefully the food your rabbits eat the
most freely, and study that well. The above will give
a good general idea of the modes of feeding and foods
required. Miss Mabel Illingworth, who is the
originator of the variety called " Imperials," once told
us that, although her pets are a fairly short-coated
variety, she used bran as part of her staple food. It
was soaked and given mixed with oats. The usual
green foods, most of which we have enumerated pre-
viously, were given. Our own view is against the use of
bran in the case of any of the short-coated varieties that
are intended for exhibition, and we do not favour the
use either of turnips or turnip tops as a succulent food.
Perhaps we have discussed the question of feeding at
somewhat inordinate length for the space at command,
but it is the channel through which success is often made
or marred. One final word. See that all food is sweet
and pure.

CHAPTER II.

BREEDING— HOW TO PROCEED.

In this chapter we propose to give general instruc-
tions, leaving the question of mating the different breeds
to be dealt with in the chapters devoted to a description
of the points of each. There are two ways of breeding
rabbits, indeed all live stock. There is the systematic
and there is the aimless. This remark applies with
equal force even though the breeder does not mix the
varieties but adheres rigidly to separate breeds. Of
course the man who breeds ordinary cross-bred stock
takes no note of system. All are the same to him ; and
he usually goes in for prettiness of colours and size of
specimens. Sometimes his only aim is to keep a rabbit
on purpose to " fatten for Christmas.'* In that case a
cross between the Belgian Hare and Flemish Giant will
suit his every purpose. He will get a large rabbit, and
by the introduction of the Belgian cross get rid of a
great deal of the offal which Flemish carry. But if ne
wants a pretty pet and a table rabbit combined, he
cannot do better than select the English variety. And
he will have this double speculative chance therefrom—
he may possibly, even in his aimless mode of procedure,
breed a show specimen. This is not to advise aimless
breeding, but to try and find for him a variety that com-
bines pleasure and profit with the additional off-chance
of honour attaching. Mismarked Dutch, Himalayans,
and Polish are very pretty as pets. Some like the
beautiful long-coated Angora as a pet, but if you are
going to breed these fleecy-coated rabbits you will have
to brush their coats daily, never failing. Are you pre-
pared for the labour, patience, and constant application ?
If not, do not keep them as pets, for neglect will trans-
form them into miserable objects in a very short time.
For the breeder for exhibition purposes there is no safer
path than that of system. What do we mean by

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 15

system ? Well, there are two well-recognized systems,
either of which has been successful. The one is in-
breeding, the other a watchful selection from time to
time of the very choicest sires and dams, and those that
are the most successful in the show pen. This latter
plan draws somewhat heavily on the pocket. The first-
named draws on the patience, perseverance, and
thoughtfulness of the aspirant to fame. We feel bound
to say, from experience, that there is far more pleasure
to be derived from the one system than the other. In-
breeding, as we understand it, is carried out thus: — •
Select a reliable. strain. Procure a sire therefrom, or
use the sire of the establisher. Have, say, three does,
one of the same blood as the sire, and the others of well-
known winning strains that have similar characteristics
to the strain you select the sire from. Save the does
from these matings, and select those containing the
greatest average of points. Buy a young sire bred from
the father of these youngsters by the man from whom
you obtained the first mating. See that the rabbit is
good in all points, and mate him to the does bred from
the first two out-cross does. The best does from this
cross mate to the grandfather, and probably you will
breed a sire of your own. In this line we have kept on
breeding for years without ever again introducing an
outcross on the male side. Our plan, in case we needed
a change for strength, has been to buy does that appeal
to us as of similar characteristics to our own strain. We
have observed of late signs of " trimming," or oppor-
tunism in the writings and utterances of some of the
former advocates of in-breeding. In our view in-breed-
ing is in no sense capable of the introduction of entirely
foreign sires, the more especially because they happen
to be winners. It is beside the point to say that par-
ticular breeds are so intermixed that it is hardly possible
to get foreign blood, and to give that as a reason why
it is still in-breeding if you buy as a sire a winner here
and a winner there. We cannot conceive the force of
the contention that the introduction of a sire here and
a sire there as being the perpetuation of a strain. We
call it opportunism. On this subject of in-breeding we
have had long years of consistent practice, so much so,
that we could almost forecast the results of this and that
mating with exactness. But there are general rules

16 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

applicable to breeding, whether it be systematic or aim-
less. Health in both parents is greatly to be sought
after, indeed should never be overlooked. Rabbits,
when bred from, should never be less than 7 or a
months old, always free from ailment, and in good coat.
Never breed from unhealthy or moulty specimens; and
always see that the rabbits are in good flesh, particu-
larly the doe. Not too fat, but it takes a great deal out
of a doe to rear a litter of young, and if she is in good
health and condition so much the better for her family.
In the matter of age for mating, some choose a young
sire and an older doe, others the reverse, but great suc-
cess has been achieved by breeders from mating young
stock together. We have had excellent results from the
mating of father and daughter, and even brother and
sister. But on this point it is imperative that both
should be as near perfect in points as possible, or you
will perpetuate faults. If you are going to breed to a
system you will have to keep a siud book, and register
all your stock. These are general remarks on breeding.
For all the short-coated varieties, such as Belgians,
Dutch, Himalayans, Silvers, etc., we think the winter
is the best time to breed. Cold favours shortness of
coat. Heat induces length both of coat and ears. From
the time .of mating till the birth of the young 30 days
usually elapse. Keep the does in hutches they have
been used to, as shifting is likely to produce restlessness
and disaster. Give a liberal but not an extravagant
diet, and let them have plenty of hay bedding and cheer-
ful conditions. Don't pry about on the eve of expecta-
tion of a litter. Milk is a good thing for does, and
many breeders give does bread soaked in boiling milk
a day or two before the litter is due. Does should never
be without drink at this time, as they are very thirsty.
It often prevents the doe destroying her young if she
has a supply of drink at hand when giving birth to the
litter. A plan of using foster does is adopted by large
fanciers in the case of valuable varieties and does prone
to give birth to large litters. Common does are procured
due to kindle at the same time, and their young are des-
troyed, and those of the fancy varieties substituted.
This plan often acts well. Sometimes it is a failure, for
the does will not take the little strangers. Give plenty
of green meat to a doe while rearing her family, and «io

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 17

not stint the hay. It is surprising what a warm bed
does for young rabbits, and you would be surprised also
at the early age at which young rabbits commence to
nibble the hay; which is beneficial. Young rabbits are
perfectly blind when born, but their sight comes at about
nine days old. Some leave the nest earlier than others,
but at a month old they will run out and feed as heartily
as the doe. They are very shy at first, and care is
needed to avoid fright, for that often induces fits. We
believe in separating the sexes at about twelve weeks
old. We have known them left on their parents until
four or five months old, but <ao not advise that plan
generally. It is not well to breed more than twice a
year from a doe, and she should be well and judiciously
fed between the periods of breeding. Some breeders
remove the young to a new hutch or " run." Others
prefer removing the doe, arguing that the young do
better for being left in their own quarters. The advan-
tage of leaving the young a little longer with the doe is
to avoid the danger of milk trouble with the doe. If
taken away at six or seven weeks the doe is sometimes
full of milk, and trouble often results. If the young
are left longer, the milk supply gradually ceases, for
does will not allow young to suckle longer than Nature
dictates. One of the chief items in breeding is to take
great care of the young rabbits. It is a mistake to
think that they can be suddenly removed, fed " as
usual " with the old stock, and then thrive. It is well
to feed young stock liberally. Old stock generally only
need corn once a day — young stock, just removed, need
it twice. We are no strong advocates of mashes, but
we do urge liberal treatment of young stock, and if the
expenditure of a little milk or meal is needed, let it be
incurred. Another matter that bothers the breeder is
the weakling youngster. Unless of great value, we
never trouble. It gets the " happy dispatch." Don t
keep young rabbits too thick on the ground — give plenty
of hutch room, or ill-health will result. Young rabbits
are, when in health, what we may, vulgarly, call
grubbers. Beware of this, and regulate their supply,
especially of green food, or you will soon get diarrhoea
amongst them. Young rabbits are sometimes
pugnacious, and this must be watched for; moreover,
those that look the most promising will be best singled

!B PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

out, if you have hutch room. Whatever variety of the
rabbit family you select as your hobby, to breed it to
perfection you must proceed on certain well-defined
principles. If you are breeding for colour, say, and
wish to produce a sound black or blue, for instance, you
must mate blacks and blues. No foreign colours can
be introduced thereto without ill results. It is of no use
trying to make black white. If you are breeding for
shades, as in silvers, you will need to study the results
of the use of a certain sire and certain dams, and proceed
accordingly. You must think for yourselves, having
had certain broad principles laid down for your guid-
ance, but if you wish to deepen shade, you must use
those sires or dams that produce the shades. We do
not favour the generally accepted theory that colour is
always obtained from the sire. It depends upon ante-
cedents. To breed fancy rabbits successfully requires
the application of brain power. The fault of many
young fanciers is that their brains work too quickly,
consequently they think they have acquired more know-
ledge in a few months than many older men have done
in a lifetime. There is something besides knowledge —
there is experience. Says an old and successful fancier:
— " In breeding fancy stock there is that about it that
can only be gained by absolute practical experience.
You must inbreed to make headway; it is the sure road
to success, whether it be in horses, cattle, dogs, poultry,
or rabbits. It has to be done on common sense lines.
It is not in mating certain relations together, but «o
correct faults. Study the points, and I don't care if you
mate brother and sister."

We must now proceed to give a few hints on

EXHIBITING.

This is a branch of the fancier's curriculum which
is of the greatest interest. 3t must not always be
thought that the best specimens are shown to the best
advantage. But it is quite certain that no matter how
good a man's stock is, unless he can show it property,
he will often be worsted in the fray. ' In the first
place," says an old exhibitor, " don't overshow your
specimens, and don't forget that condition plays a very
important part in the show pen. Most of the best rabbit

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. ig

judges show a great preference for rabbits in condition,
and you will often see a really good specimen with only
a H.C. card simply because it is not shown in good
condition. There is nothing more striking to a judge,
when he has several rabbits on the table or basket, some
in lovely coat and condition, others the reverse. The
first-named are bound to catch his eye, and you will find
it is always worth the little extra time and trouble ex-
pended on grooming and attention given to them. I
know it is very tempting, when you have been lucky
enough to get into the prize list several times. You are
then anxious to have another try, but you must have
a little consideration for the exhibits." Here are the
words of another old, experienced, and successful
breeder of silver greys: — " Exhibiting: When is it best
to commence? Well, I should say at about five months
old, — as soon as the rabbit is clean through its moult.
I do think it an abomination to see a silver grey in the
show pen with black ears and a big patch of black fur
on its forehead. How can this be perfection ? And in
the young classes it is easy to tell within 14 days whether
a rabbit is 5 or 6 months old! Although this time on
would give a great advantage. But if a rabbit is care-
fully shown at 5 or 6 months old it will take no harm,
but'will live to a good old age. My practice is only one
show a week, or if I am showing a buck, I do not use
him at stud while the shows are on. Always be sure to
show a rabbit in condition, i.e., with its coat well set.
If this point is studied, the rabbit will not take much
hurt. Very often the cause of trouble is sending rabbits
out when in moult and the constitution is low. It is
then that a rabbit contracts snuffles, and all sorts of
trouble, which, perhaps, are never cured; whereas a
little forethought would have prevented all this. If sent
out in good condition a rabbit has a much better chance
of catching the judge's eye." We do not propose to
labour the point of necessity for rabbits being shown in
good condition beyond giving these opinions of two
breeders of some of the most popular varieties shown at
the present day, in the case of the latter of which con-
dition either makes or mars a rabbit's chances almost
absolutely. Our next point is — when to begin showing.
Our advice is that steps be taken to ascertain what is
needed in the show pen before you commence to exhibit.

20 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

Do not place too high an estimate on your own stock.
On the other hand, keep your eyes open hereabouts.
Why? The answer is simple. If you have started
with a good strain you may have bred something out
of the common, and if you consult other fanciers they
may sometimes be a little envious, just a little afraid
lest you should beat them, and just a little — only a little,
but watch for it — desirous of purchasing one from you
" to cross in with theirs." Often that " one " is a plum.
We cast no reflection here, but it is just one touch of
human nature as we have seen it, in play in the years
gone by. The "one" they want "to cross in" is
usually the one you should exhibit. Mark that. But
there are generally fanciers who will give you candid
and honest advice, and won't want to buy. If you
desire to know what shows to exhibit at, you will find
them advertised in the Fancy journals, to be bought at
your newsagents. And a post card to the secretary of
any show advertised will bring you a schedule in which
all particulars will be found. Study that schedule well,
and be careful how you fill it in. These are only ex-
traneous matters, but they are important. Now we will
deal with three or four points concerning preparation
for exhibition. The first is training or handling. A
wild rabbit on the basket is a great annoyance to a
judge, and its chances are heavily handicapped thereby-.
Consequently we advise, most strongly, the fancier to
handle his show rabbits frequently. Put up a stand
near your rabbitry or in it. Lay a sack thereon, and
take out your rabbits often and train them to sit as you
would like to see them do when on the judging table.
This gives the animals confidence, and enhances their
chances of showing themselves to the best advantage.
The next point is grooming. A good rabbit well
groomed is a picture. Some fanciers groom one way,
some another. Here is one way, and it shall suffice.
Take a very small spot of castor oil and place it in the
centre of one of your palms. Rub the hands together
till all apparent traces of the oil have disappeared, and
your hands shine. Then groom the rabbit's fur with
your hands till it glistens. This it will soon do. Be
careful there is no oil, in substance, on your hands, or
it will cause a " mess." This treatment applies to all
short-coated varieties. In the case of Angoras, they

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 21

must be brushed daily, whether on show or not, and "or
this purpose a proper hog's bristle brush should be
obtained. They must be kept free from mats or
tangles, or their chances are heavily handicapped.
Another point: Feed exhibition stock well. Milk is
useful. So is a little oil cake. So also is a mash made
of linseed (boiled and let to stand and get cold) and
equal parts barley meal and toppings. This thrice a
week. Always let the rabbit feed before dispatching on
a journey. Ours get a feed of oats and have a little
green food and plenty of hay in the box or basket.
Much has been written anent this question of rabbis
travelling to and from exhibitions. A great deal — the
major part — has been dictated by the most humane con-
siderations. There can be no doubt that baskets are
best in the summer, and boxes of ample size, and plenti-
fully ventilated — at the proper points — in the winter.
Common sense should enter at this door, and a box can
be ventilated without being made draughty. Let either
box or basket have secure straps or fastenings, and a
proper handle at the top. Railway porters are too busy
(sic) to lift a parcel (containing live or dead stock) care-
fully. They play bounce ball with some, football with
others. Nobody sees them, and their hearts have no
feeling for the dumb creation. This is from the experi-
ence of observation. Help these people, then, and give
them no excuse. Night journeys are best if possible to
far distant shows, but in any case sufficient time ought
to be allowed in transit. When rabbits return from a
show it is wise to give them an aperient. We know an
old breeder who .always gave his a Beecham's Pill
There is a sound idea here.

CHAPTER III.
THE DISEASES OF RABBITS.

WE shall commence this chapter with a reference to
one of the ills or indispositions of the rabbit family
which, although not an actual disease, is a very trouble-
some affliction to which one and all are periodically
subject. To escape it means death. We refer to

THE MOULTING TIME.

Of all the periods in the existence of the rabbit
covered by immunity from actual disease, the most
troublesome is the period during which it is shedding
its old coat and putting on a new one. There is a dull-
ness and listlessness about the animal which awakens
sympathy. Much depends upon the rapidity with
which the moulting process proceeds. Some moult
quickly and easily — the fur seems to come off in pro-
fusion ; others moult steadily and stubbornly, and take
a very long time in getting through. We favour a
daily and continual assistance in the shape of grooming
out the old fur, the administration of judicious aperients
to keep the system clear, such as fluid magnesia in milk,
and nourishing food. If ever soft food (i.e., mashes)
are useful it is at this period. And the hutches shoujd
be kept scrupulously clean. We have found it wise to
groom the rabbit's old coat out by the- aid of a very
small portion of glycerine on the hands. Warm
bedding is essential, and quietude. Never breed from
or exhibit a rabbit at this period ; watch carefully the
quality of the green food or roots given ; and don't shift
a rabbit from one hutch to another during moult.

Of the diseases proper to which rabbits are subject

DIARRHOEA, OR SCOURS,

is very prevalent. It is a deadly enemy to young stock,
for when once set up it often causes the rabbit to be in
such a miserable condition that it cannot be prevailed
upon either to eat or drink. One of the most pitiable

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 23

objects is a young rabbit with scours. It sets its back
and its fur up, sits absolutely dejected, and refuses food
or drink. Death in the majority of cases terminates its
suffering. It is often difficult to trace the origin of
scours. Young rabbits, amongst which it the more
frequently occurs, are much more ravenous than adults,
and they will search about for every atom of food. Often
they pick up a bit of stale food or green meat, accident-
ally overlooked. Sometimes the hot weather will send
them off. Often overcrowding or fright will do it. If
you can, in the early stages of the attack, get them to
drink plenty of cold water, it will relieve and often cure
them. A very large breeder recently told us that he
battled successfully with an attack of scours in some
valuable young Belgian Hares. He could not trace its
origin, except to the hot weather and a liberal supply of
greenfood. But he tried as a last resort brandy and
raw eggs. That was successful. If so in young stock,
it may well be tried with adults. In any case diarrhoea
demands prompt treatment. Our advice is to visit a
chemist and ask him to mix the proper quantities of an
antidote for the complaint. But if we can get adult
rabbits, or young stock, to drink plenty of cold water,
we seldom need to go further. Some recommend
chlorodyne, others arrowroot, etc. But it is best to
watch your food supply carefully, and avoid wet or
stale food — either green or otherwise.

INFLAMMATION

Is often a natural corollary to scours. The latter very
frequently develops into inflammation of the bowels, and
when it does hardly any power or skill on earth can
combat it. You cannot deal with a rabbit like you can
with a human patient, and the treatment which might
be adopted to allay scours needs to be materially altered
when inflammation has to be dealt with. This, of
course, has reference to inflammation of the bowels in its
acute form as a result of diarrhoea. Mustard leaves, etc.,
cannot be applied to rabbits, and often the admtnistra-.
tion of medicine induces so much exhaustion as to do
more harm than good. Inflammation of the lungs, pro-
ceeding from cold is equally fatal, and up to the present
time this disease has defied most of the attempts to

24 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

battle with it successfully. We have no remedy to offer.
But it will perhaps aid in prevention, to point out that
constant attention to the food supply and to the con-
ditions of housing will go far to secure immunity from
attacks of this deadly foe of the rabbit.

COSTIVENESS,

Or Constipation, to be more scientifically accurate, is
the very opposite of diarrhoea, and arises as much from
a shortened supply of green food as diarrhoea does from
plenty. It is not to be concluded, however, that consti-
pation always springs from lack of aperient food,
although it does in the majority of cases. Some people
who keeps rabbits professedly as pets are superlatively
ignorant of the animals' needs. So ignorant that they
often diet their pets in the most ridiculous fashion.
They would laugh at you if you told them a rabbit
drank water. And to allege that green food is necessary
daily would afford them food for ridicule. Such people
are more fitting to keep wooden horses than rabbits.
You can easily detect the presence of constipation by
the lack of excreta. There will be plenty of this daily
from a healthy rabbit, and it will be firm and natural.
Anyone knows the natural excreta of a rabbit. If the
animal is suffering from constipation it will show some
of the same mopishness present in the case of diarrhoea,
without the weakness, but there is here also a strong
tendency to inflammation. If the costiveness can be
relieved by a mild and frequent aperient, that will be
better than castor oil, which is reactive. Some advise
syrup of buckthorn. It is good. Others like strong
doses of magnesia, but we have learnt from experience
that this and many other of the ills from which rabbits
suffer may be prevented by common sense feeding.
There are change foods in green meat such as chicory,
dandelion, etc., which work wonders in this way. But
the crass obstinacy of many rabbit keepers causes them
to persist in the unwise policy of closing the stable door
when the horse has escaped.

DISEASES OF THE SKIN

Arise chiefly from overheated blood and unclean con-
ditions. We do not prescribe for these beyond the

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 25

supply of cooling medicine and the blood purifying of
green foods, such as dandelion, etc. Rabbits with skin
affection, if malignant, are best underground. If the
attacks are insignificant, they are easily dealt with as
above, but skin diseases are usually troublesome and
obstinate.

INCURABLE DISEASES,

Such as paralysis, fits, and the like, are often met with,
but time spent on attempts at a cure is wasted. We
never met with a case of cure of paralysis, and might
say the same of fits. It is no kindness to any person or
his rabbits for those who have the experience to be
recommending measures for the prolongation of life in
the cases of affections for which there is no cure. There
is another disease in which attempts to cure result in
failure in nine cases out of ten. That is what is called
" Slobbers." The affected rabbit discharges a kind of
spittle from the mouth which saturates the fur around,
and makes the rabbit look miserable. Overcrowding,
indigestion, injudicious feeding are the primary causes.
It is a summer visitant generally, and the recovery is
so rare, especially in adult rabbits, that all the " cures "
have gone by the board. Rabbits suffering from
slobbers will not eat or drink, and as in the case of
diarrhoea have to be drenched or left alone. To pres-
cribe boiled milk, specialist food, or drugs seems wide
of the mark. There is as much likelihood of recovery
if left to the ordinary diet as there is to special treat-
ment. The percentage of cures is very low even from
special treatment.

TUMOURS, CANKERED EAR, AND BLINDNESS.

The two former are capable of relief and cure.
The latter never. Often in the case of a tumour it can
safely be opened by anyone skilled and confident in the
use of a knife, and when all the pus has been ejected,
the cavity can be well cleansed by the free use of an
antiseptic such as Condy's fluid or boracic acid solution,
or anything of that nature. The great point is to keep
the wound open long enough to allow of its healing
from the bottom. See closely to this, as mischief arises
if the cavity heals first from the top. An injury will

26 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

cause a tumour. The diet at this time should be good,
but not such as to heat the system. Cankered ear is
very often met with, and causes the rabbit much annoy-
ance. The itching is intense, and the soreness of the
head bad to bear. Besides, it is a nasty complaint.
Take a piece of wadding on a stick (taking care it cannot
slip off), dip in warm water, and thoroughly cleanse the
ear. Having done this, go to a chemist, and he will
mix you a fluid at a small cost to drop into the ear. We
have a lotion, given us by a veterinary surgeon for
canker in the ears of dogs, but we know not of what it
is made, and like a man of science our vet. will not tell
us. One thing can safely be done. Magnesia, cream
of tartar, or any other blood purifying medicine may be
given in the food. A splendid remedy for this and
other blood diseases is equal parts of sulphur (the best
the chemist supplies) and cream of tartar, mixed in
milk, and given, say half a teaspoonful twice or thrice
a week. Ointment may be all very well for canker in
the ear, but it is difficult to get it down deep enough.
The same objection does not lie against liquid applica-
tions. Sore hocks are also a bad form of skin disease.
They proceed from a dirty hutch. Bad cases are hard
to cure, and if the rabbit is not valuable, kill it.

WIND, DlSTENTION OF THE STOMACH, OR COLIC.

Is a very painful complaint, the cause of indescribable
misery to a rabbit until relieved. It is the bosom
friend of indigestion, and where a rabbit is at all costive,
there is certain to be trouble in the direction indicated.
We do not think strong purgatives are very effective
in cases of wrind or colic. Some do. It is necessary
to preserve nominally free action of the bowels, but
wind proceeds from causes almost intimately connected
with the digestion and food supplied. At least, that is
our experience. Regular feeding on a discriminating
and pure diet is a great preventive of wind or colic in
rabbits. It is somewhat as in the case of human beings.
Caution prevents; carelessness induces. Anything that
will promote a normal action of the liver will help to
secure freedom from wind and colic. Costiveness is the
friend of wind, but that is not to say that laxness is
absolutely essential.

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 27

SNUFFLES.

No rabbit book would be complete without a refer-
ence to this filthy disease. There is no need for a
fancier who knows anything, to ask if you have got
snuffles amongst your stock. He detects it as soon as
he comes on the premises. There is sneezing here,
coughing there, and a sight of the mucous-stuffed
nostrils and dirty fore feet of the affected specimens
only confirms what the sneezing and coughing had
indicated. There are as many views on the cause of
snuffles as there are opinions upon its incurable nature
or otherwise. We have only one opinion, and that is
akin to our view upon septic fever in birds. Once it
has obtained a footing it is incurable. Cleanliness,
care, proper ventilation, and freedom from draughts
and dampness are the best preventives. Some allege
that it is not contagious. We are of the contrary view.
We think it both infectious and contagious, and have
proved that it is hereditary. But we have done with
testing and proving, with doctoring and hoping; once
we are convinced we have a case of snuffles, we protect
ourselves and our other specimens by killing the
affected rabbit. A ruffled coat, an emaciated frame, a
filthy nose, and altogether an object of pity is met with
in a rabbit with snuffles. If you get one, kill it, for
pity's sake. Let those experiment who will. We have
tried remedies, and recommended their trial. We have
heard of "cures," but never met with one in our
personal experience. We write for ourselves, of our
own knowledge, with no axe to grind, or medicine to
boom. We say " Kill." Further, we are of opinion
that the man who knowingly exhibits a rabbit with
snuffles is no fancier, no gentleman. Let him keep his
filth at home, y

KEEPING RABBITS FOR PROFIT.

Anyone who keeps .a single rabbit in a sugar box
for the children's delight, or out of the love of his own
heart for dumb creatures, does not dream of profit.
With him it is a hobby, and to tend to it is a labour of
love. But there are many sides to rabbit keeping, and
one of them is — can they afford delight as a hobby, and

28 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

be made £o pay into the bargain ? The answer is —
Certainbdj Since we last wrote upon this subject much
has ha|j|^ned. There is no American market open,
through which rabbits can be disposed of at such
fabulous prices as ,£25, ^30, and even ^55 (the top
figure ever realised). But recently we have come across
a case in which ^"17 was paid in one show for two young
rabbits, and ,£5, ,£6, ,£10, and even £20 is no unusual
price paid in England to-day for good specimens.
These are fancy prices, but actually realized. It is not
on this ground alone that we say rabbits can be made to
pay. Let us take more modest premises. Our book
has not to do with rabbit farming. But we have in our
mind the owner of a stud of well bred and carefully
selected rabbits, and we say he can realize the pleasure
of a hobby, and make that hobby pay into the bargain.
How ? In this way. To begin with there is always a
market — the food market for his wastrels, and this,
in a stock of any size will go far to cover the food bill.
Then there are the sales of the breeders at prices some-
times of 73. 6d., ios., and £i each. Added to these are
the show specimens. One of the best ways to keep the
thing going is to be continually weeding out. Never
keep a lot of old, used-up does and bucks. They eat
their heads off and bring no return. It is of no use our
telling fairy tales on such a practical subject. To make
rabbits pay, a great deal of energy, plenty of persever-
ence, advertising, showing, and winning need to be
done. It will not pay to give high prices for pedigree
stock in order to sell the produce at food market price.
What you need is to get the best, work upon a principle
in breeding, and seize the opportunity for disposal when
it offers itself. Exhibiting of itself hardly ever pays
after all the outgoings are reckoned. But exhibiting
brings renown, and people buy anything on the strength
of renown ! The country dweller has far better chances
than the one who lives in a large town. Food is
cheaper. In the country it costs little or nothing for
green food or bedding. In the town these are strong
items in the expenditure. And yet we have known men
in towns make a nice profit out of their rabbits. Not
long since we heard a popular judge say he could make
more by breeding, buying, and selling, than he did by
judging, etc., if he gave up the one and took to the

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 29

other. We always call to mind our own personal ex-
perience when touching upon this subject. ?£Fhe thing
necessary is to use great care in selection, tcf'buy well,
feed properly, house comfortably, and sell at the right
moment. These are general directions, but they cover
the whole range of possibility in this matter. If you
want to succeed you must buy healthy stock and keep
it healthy. If you want to succeed, you must buy of
the reputable breeder. Of course, you will not be an
expert at starting, and that is why you need to buy of a
reputable breeder. There are always men in every
branch of life who are on the look out for " pigeons"
to pluck. These are the people who are the fester spots
of the rabbit as of any other fancy. But they are not
legion, and the channels of purification, protection, and
publicity are so manifestly increasing in numbers and
potency, that there is a daily improving chance for the
true hobbyist to take up the rabbit fancy and make it
pay its way. After all, an asset in rabbit keeping is
the pleasure it affords, and if every 2os. expended does
not return 255., but only 205., or even 195., that is no
argument that rabbit keeping does not pay.

CHAPTER IV.

THE PRINCIPAL VARIETIES.
THE BELGIAN HARE.

A great deal can be written in praise of an animal,
which may also be described in a few sentences.
Colour, style, and length of body and limbs are the
three essential characteristics of the modern Belgian
Hare rabbit. For many years the lop-eared rabbit held
sway, but premier position was gradually wrested from
it by the Belgian Hare. This member of the rabbit
family has brought some remarkable prices. Some few
years ago the Americans conceived a liking for the
Belgian Hare, and they went for it for all they were
worth. Many an English breeder reaped a rich harvest
by sales to the Yankees, and prices varying from ,£5 to
;£5o fairly represent the figures touched in this remark-
able craze. All that, however, is but ancient history,
and many good specimens are now sold for as many
shillings as they would have fetched pounds in the years
when Uncle Sam was a-hobbying. Notwithstanding
the exhaustion of the American demand, high prices are
now commanded for good specimens, and the Belgian
Hare is about as profitable to keep as any of the fancy
varieties. They came from Belgium in the first in-
stance, but have been quite transformed in appearance
by English breeders, and competition at the Crystal
Palace and other shows is tremendously keen. We
shall endeavour to give a description of the several
points of a Belgian Hare, as we see them. First, then
we will take colour. Belgians vary somewhat in point
of ground colour, but there is no doubt that the most
successful, most popular, and most fascinating colour
is the rich and brilliant golden tan. Not yellow, washed
out colour, but that with plenty of body and brightness

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 3I

in it. This colour gives the animal a rich appearance.
The Standard says " rufus red." Call it that if you
will. The beauty of such a specimen is enhanced
by the presence of dark hairs in the fur, distributed
wavily over the body. This is called wavy ticking,
and is greatly sought after by the best breeders
and judges. Strange to relate, however, notwithstand-
ing the high merit which attaches to a golden tanned
rabbit with wavy ticking, the number to be met with is
not at all commensurate with the value of the specimens
possessing it. The reason is not far to seek. Wavy
ticking in the golden tan is extremely difficult to get,
especially in bucks, and it is a somewhat rare experience
to come across one possessing such a point of excellence
in a pronounced manner. Most of the golden tan bucks
are plainly, or what the Fancy calls evenly, ticked.
Next in importance comes length of body and limbs.
Unless this characteristic is pronounced the specimen
stands little chance of success in a show to-day. A
short, stumpy specimen is soon passed over. Some of
the lithe and fine boned Belgians present the appear-
ance of a whippet dog in general build of body and
limbs. The fore legs should be long, fine in bone,
beautifully clear in the tan, and pointed at the foot. To
see a Belgian with a spreading foot is but to do so to
condemn it. The hind feet should be long and rich
and deep in the tanning, the toes also being finely
pointed — not spreading; and many breeders and exhibi-
tors, either justifiably or to the contrary, remove the
white fur to be found under the feet and between the
toes, as it quite spoils the outline of tan colour. How
they remove it may be left to their discretion, but it is
certain it is done. A good sound tan chest, utterly free
from dark hairs is a point of excellence. So is a well
carried pair of ears, with rich and distinct lacing — or a
black rim which runs for a couple of inches along the
tips of the ears. The proper carriage of the ears is semi-
erect. They should be well covered with rich tan fur,
and be about five inches in length. Bad carriage of
ears in a Belgian Hare is a defect. Shape is also a
very great point in a Belgian. Some allude to it as
" style." We like to see a long, thin body, which,,
when drawn out will, as we have said, resemble the
whippet dog. The flank should be well tucked up, the

32 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

back nicely arched to a slight degree, the loins should
be well rounded, and across the shoulders the specimen
should be narrow, and show as much length as possible
from the flank to the shoulder. Fanciers are very partial
to a long lean head in a Belgian Hare, particularly in a
buck, and a most objectionable feature is a short,
stumpy, thick head. Many of the most successful
youngsters fail in this respect when they reach the adult
stage of their existence. Another point which we think
should be emphasized to-day is the necessity for a
straight tail. We know not who is responsible for the
state of things prevailing, but it really exists, and it is
necessary in a modern book of this kind to call attention
to it. More frequently than is pleasant, a judge is met
with exhibits carrying their tails on one side. If there
is a distinct screw or twist in the tail it will run to side
and curl inwards at the point. Besides, it can be dis-
tinctly felt, like a child with curvature of the spine.
But the majority stop short at side carriage, without
the screw. This side carriage is a great eyesore, and a
distinct blemish on the rabbit's outline. Unfortunately
judges are not agreed upon the weight to be placed on
this disadvantage. Some view it lightly, others more
seriously. But none go so far as to take definite and
severe notice of it. This is a pity, as vigorous and
united judicial action would soon settle the matter, for
in point of demerit, there is but the difference 'twixt
tweedledum and tweedledee in a screw tail and a tail
" carried on one side." Nothing adds to the fire and
raciness of a good Belgian Hare more than a bold, wild,
hazel eye, which looks as if it were starting out of its
socket. This gives to the animal a wild, hare-like
appearance. Another eyesore is a dewlap, or pouch
under the chin. The standard weight of a show speci-
men is put down at 8 Ibs, but we leave that matter, as we
are of opinion that not one in 20 reaches it, and might
be handicapped adversely if they did. Let your Belgian
Hare be healthy — not fat and podgy, and with fur short,
full and flying, when turned back. We must not over-
look another defect in some of the young Belgians of
the present day. We allude to barred or flaky fore-feet,
i.e., feet with light, silvery bars across, just above the
toes. A word as to mating. Some prefer a golden
tan buck and a doe of deep rufus red colour, but both full

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 33

of harelike properties as to shape, length, head, etc.
Others go on the theory (not always confirmed in prac-
tice, we will vouch) that colour proceeds from the male,
and consequently breed from rufus red bucks and
golden tan does. Both ways have resulted in success,
but not always either the one or the other. Having
said this much, we now append the standard of points
of excellence of the National Belgian Hare Club : —

Points

Colour — Rich rufus red (not dark smudgy colour),
carried well down sides and hindquarters,
and as little white on jaws as possible ... 20

Shape — Body long, thin, well tucked-up flank, and
well ribbed-up, back slightly arched, loins
well rounded, not choppy, head rather
lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight, not
screwed, and altogether of a racy appearance 20

Ticking — Rather wavy appearance and plentiful... 10

Ears — About five inches, thin, well laced on tips,
and as far down outside edges as possible,
good colour inside and outside, and well set
on ... ... ... ... ... ... 10

Eye — Hazel colour, large, round, bright, and bold 10

Legs and Feet — Fore feet and legs long, straight,
slender, well coloured, and free from white
bars, hind feet well-coloured ... ... ... 10

Without dewlap ... ... ... ... ... 10

Size — About 8 Ibs 5

Condition — Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm

like a racehorse, arid a good quality of fur... 5

Total ... 100

SILVERS

Are an interesting and profitable study. They afford

§ ratification for numerous tastes as to colour and effect,
ilvers are bred in hundreds in the North of England.

34 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

Lincoln, Blackburn, different parts of Yorkshire,
Grimsby, and many other northern centres send out
some of the best. In the county of Sussex also there are
numerous breeders of Silvers, and, we say it without
egotism, London and its suburbs have provided, and
continue to provide some of the very best. One of the
biggest winners in Silver Greys in the season of 1906
was bred in a London suburb, and we shall be excused
a natural feeling of pride if we say that at the Crystal
Palace Show in November, 1906, a gentleman who
owned and bred the Challenge Cup young Grey of 1905,
and the Challenge Cup adult doe of 1906, told us that
from a doe of our own breeding sprang those and other
winners he had exhibited since the purchase from our-
selves. So that London takes a fairly prominent share
in the production of the best Silvers. There are four
sections for Silvers at shows, and each variety may be
said to be bred quite separately, although in the cases
of two there is undoubtedly a little judicious mixing
resorted to. The sections are Greys (the most
numerous); blues, which are scarcely ever seen now,
and might almost as well be struck out of the list;
Fawns; and Browns. It is only fair to give the most
popular section precedence, therefore we commence with

THE SILVER GREY.

We could write much upon this variety, having
bred hundreds, including many winners, and possessing
at the present time several from which we have great
hopes, including successful rabbits at a recent great
Silver Club Show. But we shall give the views of a
gentleman from whom we ourselves obtained our first
stock many years ago. Mr. A. Brazier, of Galley
Wood, Chelmsford, writes us thus on this subject: —
" In my opinion the Grey of the Silver tribe is the most
handsome as well as being as good as any variety a
fancier can keep. It is beautiful for the exhibition table
because the hand of the faker cannot very well in any
way improve its beauty. There are no bad coloured
patches to remove, no plucking or dyeing; in fact, no
tricks can well be successfully played with exhibition
Silver Greys; although I have seen the chests of Silver
Greys that appeared to have been tampered with to

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 35

remove the lightness of the fur which will sometimes
come very much lighter at chest to the detriment of the
specimen. This has had the appearance of giving the
chest a dead or leaden appearance, and I am happy to
say that such have been passed by the judges without
a card. The Silver Grey cannot be made, it must be
bred, and having a few years ago won many prizes, I
think I am entitled to say that winners can be bred. My
old Champion " P.B.," whose shadow graces these
pages, won no fewer than 84 first and special prizes, a
record which I do not think has been beaten by any
rabbit." We desire to interrupt Mr. Brazier just for a
moment to say that from Champion " P.B.," on the
male side, we laid the foundation of our own stock, and
had until recently in our possession " Storm King," who
lived to be one of the oldest Silver Greys of our day—
bred in direct male line (a grandson) of the old
champion. So that Silver Greys are long-lived as well as
beautiful, and in-breeding does not always destroy stam-
ina. Mr. Brazier adds: — "Some letters have recently
appeared in the Press — * Have Silver Greys improved?'
How I wish I could again place upon the table some of
those which have passed away, and compare notes.
The Silver Greys of the old days were bred, not made,
thus encouraging all breeders to strive to breed speci-
mens of equal and superior merit to those of long ago.
On one occasion I bred 6 in one litter, all of which turned
out to be first prize winners in open competition, and
three of which I sold for £21. So that they are profit-
able as well as fascinating. In breeding Silver Greys
patience is required, and it is not well always to dispose
of young Greys in a hurry, as very often they are not
at their best until the second or third coat has grown.
If you have a comparatively even young Silver Grey,
always keep it if you have the hutch room, until the
second moult at least. I have known such to turn out
champions. In starting a strain of Silver Greys the
great thing is selection. Do not rush and buy the first
winner you see, just because it has won at a show, or
someone (perhaps an interested party) tries to persuade
you. Buy your stock from a well-known and genuine
fancier who breeds his winners, and pay as good a price
as your means will permit. Obtain all the facts from
him as to parentage, and then set to work. Let the doe

36 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

be of the medium or between shade, and see that she is
even from nose to tail, feet and chest and all. Look
well to her being cobby in shape, with a short, full,
springy coat (a most important point); and see that she
is healthy and strong. Never overlook this ! Let the
buck be a good, even, dark shade, also of good shape
and short coat, and healthy. From these, with care
and watchfulness, a good strain may be built up. But
I would like to emphasise this — with both parents see
that the coats are short and crisp. Too much stress
cannot be laid upon this point, for if you get the lovely
full, short, sharp coat so much desired, the wavy ticking
so much disliked will never be found. Nothing, to my
mind, is so distasteful as a wavy ticked Silver Grey.
Beware of a light chest, or blotches of white in the coats.
These are bad faults. Much discussion has taken place
as to the origin of the Silver Grey. When I first took
up the breed, 25 years ago, it was pretty well determined
that it originated in Lancashire, and when first brought
out was known as ' The Lancashire Sprig.' As an all
round rabbit for the table, combining fullness with
quality of flesh, Silver Greys are hard to beat. They
are small in bone, and fit for use at an early age. The
does are fairly prolific, and excellent mothers if not
interfered with. I hardly ever think of handling young
Greys until they begin to put their heads out of the
nests. I breed at any time of the year, so long as the
parents are in full coat, and never mate them until they
are 6 or 7 months old. If the Silver Grey is treated
properly, it will always pay its way, and will satisfy
the most fastidious, either as a pet, an exhibition rabbit,
or for table purposes." It will only be necessary to
supplement the above with the concise statement that
the Silver Grey section is divided into four parts, viz.,
the light, between, medium, and dark shades. With
some present day judges the first two of these shades
seem the most popular. If we ever had a preference it
was for the dark shade, which we always found to be
the most difficult to breed, but the most profitable for
breeding purposes. The chief points of all on the show
table are evenness, colour, and condition. The ground
colour of the rabbit should be blue black; there should
be as nearly as possible an equal mixture of light and
dark hairs showing all over the body. The nose should

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 37

not be light, nor the tail dark. The dark hairs furnish
the ticking, and the light ones the silvering. Too many
silver hairs spoil the effect of a few dark ones, and make
the rabbit too much of a self colour, and not bright
enough. The weight of the rabbit should not exceed
5 Ibs.; it should have neat ears, short and carried well
up, and be a compact specimen all through, with a coat
as bright and dazzling as may be. Here is the standard
of points adopted by the Silver Rabbit Club: —

Points

Under-colour — In Greys a rich, deep, blue black;
in Fawns, a deep, bright, orange; in Browns
a rich, deep chestnut ... ... ... ... 25

Evenness of silvering throughout ... ... ... 20

Sharp, even, bright ticking ... ... ... ... 15

Short, full coat 15

Ears, neat, and well set on, bold, bright eye ... 10

Condition and shape ... ... ... ... 15

Total ... 100
THE SILVER FAWN.

A reference to the standard just quoted will show
that the points of excellence are similar in almost every
respect to those for the Silver Grey. The remarkably
inexplicable fact about the Silver Fawn is that, notwith-
standing its delicate beauty, it is not nearly so popular
as the Silver Grey. But on many occasions in recent
years it has managed to beat the Grey in the final tug
of war for Champion honours. It did so at the Crystal
Palace in 1906. We think wrongly, but it did so. A
good Silver Fawn is a rabbit to be admired. Its cobby
shape, neat perky appearance, small prick ears, and the
tone of ground colour are alike aids to effect. To
picture a Silver Fawn in the mind's eye one would have
to take a rich, deep, and bright orange ground, and over
that spread a gauze of silver hairs intermixed so as to
diversify them equally with orange hairs similar to the

38 PET RABBITS. CAVIES, AND MICE.

body colour. The lighter hairs form the silvering, the
darker ones supply the ticking, just as is the case with
light and dark in the Silver Grey. The effect is strik-
ing. The rabbit is sometimes badly silvered on face and
cheeks ; sometimes it fails in this respect on the feet and
tail, and is too light round the eyes and along the jowl.
There are in reality three shades of Silver Fawns, i.e.,
light, medium, and dark. Either is nice, but the light
shade is the most delicate. A great point in the Fawn
is evenness, and depth of undercolour; but they must
have short, full, sharply flying coats, and neat ears. A
Silver with big ears is badly handicapped; and in a
Silver Fawn black hairs at the roots of the ears or on the
forehead, as is sometimes seen, is a very great fault.
In the competition for the Silver Cup at Tunbridge
Wells in 1906 a Silver Fawn won over Greys and
Browns. In breeding Silver Browns there is frequently
a Fawn found in the litter. This indicates an intermix-
ing of the two by breeders, and explains the presence of
the dark and objectionable hairs at the ear roots.
Silver Fawns are gradually growing in favour, but their
beauty would seem to warrant an even more rapid
advance in that direction.

THE SILVER BROWN

Is another charming variety of the same family. Not
so delicate quite as the Pawn, it yet possesses a fine
blending of tints. On the top it has a mixture of silver
hairs and black ticking. If you disturb its coat you
will find four distinct colours. The top, as noted, is
silver and black hairs giving silvering and ticking; then
comes a layer of deep, rich, bright chestnut fur; and
then, lowest of all, a layer of a deep, rich, slate-like blue
colour of fur. On no account should a Silver Brown
show a blue shade of colour on top, when viewed from
any position. It should always be a rich chestnut,
varying in intensity from light to dark, and relieved by
the black ticking which adds effect. One of the great
faults in a Silver Brown is a dark beading or (as it is
called in Belgian Hares, in which case it is of great
value), ear lacing. This consists of a black rim round
the tips of the ears for about an inch or two in length.
The ears of a Silver Brown should be free from this,

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 39

although its origin would seem to make hard such a
possibility, for there can be little doubt, from the ear
beading and shape of many Silver Browns, that the Sil-
ver Fawn and the Belgian Hare are largely responsible
for its origin. The composition of the fur colour of the
—very often — when Brown is bred to Brown, a Fawn
youngster is the result. And even the dark hairs found
at the roots of the ears of some Fawns is a suspicious
evidence of their parentage. The Silver Brown is a
rabbit that takes some breeding to get it to perfection.
It is not so popular as the Grey, but more fanciers are
taking it up, and it is an exceedingly attractive and
useful variety. Either it or the Fawn is a good table
rabbit. Barred or light striped (across) fore feet are
a great fault and a prevalent one in Silver Browns.
They require to be evenly silvered all over, neat in ear
(if you can get them), with good hind feet. Here there
is always a difficulty. Both Browns and Fawns fail in
hind feet more often than not. They are usually nearly
white on the insides — a nasty fault.

DUTCH.

No doubt it will interest a few readers to know
something of the origin of the Dutch rabbit. It came
originally from Holland, where it is bred freely for
marketable purposes, or as we should put it in modern
phraseology — for food supply. Those bred in Holland
for killing purposes, differ very much, of course, from
the specimens we see in English shows, being much
larger and longer in body, with long thin heads, and
lacking that perfection of marking and beauty of fur the
English exhibition specimen possesses. There are
many sub-divisions exhibited, and all are bred true to
shape and markings. It may be said that the one rule
as to shape and markings applies to all the colours. It
will be seen that the standard of points given explains
the importance of the several points of marking as
shown in our illustration. The most important part of
Dutch rabbit breeding is the selection of breeding stock.
On this the beginner will stand or fall. Indeed the
same remark applies to all varieties in some degree, but
more acutely to Dutch. Let him start right, and with

4Q PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

patience and perseverence the breeder is sure to be suc-
cessful. Start wrong, and failure and disgust will soon
follow For this failure many who meet with it have
only themselves to blame. The first attractive advertise-
ment they read, of Mr. This or Mr. That offering does
mated to champion sires at IDS. each decides their course
of action. " Those are the sort. We shall soon breed
winners," they say. But do they? In selecting breed-
ing Dutch of whatever sub-division, make sure you get
shape and pure colour to start with. A Dutch rabbit
is cobby in shape, with short neat ears, and with eyes
free from spots, and the iris matching the colour of the
darker fur on the body, as near as may be. To anyone
having preferences in the matter of colour, the Dutch
rabbit affords a wide selection. There are blacks, blues,
tortoiseshells, greys (steel and light), blue fawns, fawns
or yellows, blue greys, etc. The best thing a
breeder can do who desires to breed winners is to
select one colour and stick to it. Many fanciers fail in
Dutch breeding because they dabble in too many
colours. The markings of a Dutch rabbit are uniform
in all the colours. The Dutch Club standard lays the
greatest stress upon face and stops. These score 30
points out of a possible 100. What is asked for is, first,
a good blaze and even cheek markings. It must be
explained that the ground colour of a Dutch rabbit is
considered to be white, although in reality it is about
half white and half coloured. The cheeks should be
even, and the blaze (or white of wedge shape run up
between); ears of the darker fur, and neat. The saddle
is the line at which the coloured fur on the back part
of the body joins the white. This should be even.
The "cut" is the junction line of white and coloured
fur on the belly, and the stops are the white portions
of the hind feet and legs. These should be about ij
inches long, of white fur, and join the dark fur evenly
all round. The cheek marks should be quite clear of the
long hairs at the nose, called the smellers, but should
not be cut too high up. Ears short and very neat.
This is a general description. Whatever colour is
selected, the dark fur should be as clear and pure as
possible, and quite free from white. This variety gives
rise to some cheating. Trimming, or fur extraction, is
resorted to to secure evenness of marking, but the

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 41

critics are keen and the punishment sharp. Shortness
of fur, freedom of eyes from spots, closeness of coat,
and health are great points in a Dutch. To take the
separate colours, we begin with

BLACKS AND BLUES.

These must be bred together, as to breed blacks to
blacks is to invite rustiness, and blues to blues produces
faded colour. Black is a deepener of blue in the results
of mating, and blue of black. See that your blacks are
of pure colour, free from white hairs in the ears or on
the body, and devoid of a rusty or brown tinge. Look
well to your blues also for purity. The iris of the eye
should be of the same colour as the darker fur, and there
should be no speck or mark on the eye except that which
is natural. Look well after neat ears and cobby shape
of body.

GREYS.

In competition in a class for Greys there are two
shades — steel grey and light grey. The former are now
firmly established, so that they can be safely bred
together, but the black must be introduced now and
again to retain the colour. What is wanted in a steel
Grey is a nice, deep, even colour, with bright steel tick-
ing, and a very short sharp coat. Many steels are too
dark — nearly black on face and haunches. Light Greys
are not nearly so numerous as Steels, and are of several
different shades of colour. What is wanted is as dis-
tinct a Grey as possible without being too dark, because
if you get these kind dark under, they are sure to be
dark on top, but neither a light Grey nor a Steel, and
some of them will be very dark on top with a nearly
white belly. There are the Black Greys, which are
easily mistaken for Blacks until closely examined.
These frequently carry a brown tinge on the fur; and
there are the Blue Greys. But they are off-colours, as
the fancy terms them.

THE TORTOISESHELLS

Come next, and are one of the handsomest sections of
the Dutch family. One prominent breeder remarked to

42 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

us quite recently : — " I am afraid there are a good many
who do not understand what a proper coloured tortoise-
shell Dutch should be like — in the colour I mean. My
idea of a good coloured tortoiseshell Dutch rabbit is
that the dark fur should be of a nice bright fawn on the
saddle, also on the face, with very dark slaty blue fur
shading on the muzzle, and running round the edge of
the cheeks up into the ears, which latter should be very
dark. The shading should also run along the sides of
the body and get darker as it reaches the hindquarters.
The hind feet should be very dark in shading. It is a
colour that is lasting." Breed tortoiseshell bucks to
black does bred from two tortoiseshells.

OFF-COLOURS.

It is not advisable to recommend the cultivation of
these colours, although, strange to say, some of the best
marked specimens are to be found amongst them. For
the sake of definite colour, however, we discourage
them. If fawns (or yellows), or blue greys, or blue
fawns, are mixed with the standard colours, the result
is deterioration of those established.

Here is the standard of excellence laid down by the
United Kingdom Dutch Rabbit Club : —

Blaze and cheeks ... ... ... 15

Clean neck ... ... ... ... 10

Saddle ... ... ... ... 10

Undercut ... ... ... ... 10

Feet stops ... ... ... ... 15

Ears ... ... ... ... ... 10

Eyes 5

Colour 10

Size, shape, and condition ... ... 15

100
Negative Points.

Small specks on eyes to lose 10 points; discoloured
or wall eyes to lose 20 points; distinct spots or flesh

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 43

markings to lose 20 points; over 5J Ibs. in weight to
lose 20 points.

THE OLD ENGLISH RABBIT.

Or as it is now called — dropping the ancient reference —
the English, often alluded to as the " spotted one," is a
very beautiful creature, and is characterised by a splen-
did coat, and a charming diffusion of colour. The
ground colour is pure white, and the marking points
are saddle or run of darker fur down the centre of the
back from neck to tail root; ears and tail of darker fur;
nose dark in the shape of a butterfly with outstretched
wings ; a dark fur circle round each eye, as clean cut at
the edges as possible — a point which most breeders seek
after but few7 attain to perfection, so any aspirant to fame
knows at least one ideal to aim at; the cheek spots con-
sist of one on each cheek, as round and clean as
possible, not to touch the eye circle; then there are the
six belly spots — one clear spot on each teat ; the leg spots
consist of one on the outer part of each of the four legs,
at the hock joint of the hind legs, and the shoulder joint
of the fore legs. The chains and loins are represented
by the spots along the rabbit's sides, and should be as
even on each as possible, made up of spots, well
broken up, and quite clear of the saddle. A great point
in an English rabbit, to make it perfect, is that the spots
should be round and distinct, and not mere smudges
running one into the other. The saddle should be con-
tinuous, as a broken saddle is a bad fault. The face of
the rabbit should be perfectly white, except for the nose
mark, the eye circles, and the cheek spots. There are
several varieties, such as black and white, grey and
white,' blue and white, and tortoiseshell, or fawn and
white with dark shading on the fawn. English have
grown immensely popular of later years, and the
breeders of the variety are now very numerous. Here
is a piece of advice from a breeder of many prize
winners including several champions. Mr. T. F.
Linley, of West Hartlepool, says: — "First of all get
three does and a buck from a well known breeder of the
colour you select to go in for. I like the does to have
good heads and saddles, with plenty of work (spots) on
the body and chains. If there is what appears too much

44 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

work on them so much the better, but you must have
the work well broken up, not blotchy and smeary. In
the buck I want a rabbit with a soundly marked nose
and clear face and head; good saddle, and nice under-
neath; I must have all the leg spots there, and the
rabbit should be very light in body. These are the kind
of English I breed my winners from. I do not believe
in mixing the colours in breeding. By that I mean
mating tortoisesheils to blacks. Such a mating is a
great mistake, and if you do so you will get young ones
black and white, with dots of tortoiseshell colour in
amongst the black. You may safely and wisely mate a
black doe to a blue buck, only for the colour; but you
must not mate tortoise and black, or grey and black, or
tortoise and grey together, and expect to get sound
coloured youngsters. They want keeping separate. I
do not believe in mating greys with tortoisesheils, as so
many do. The result is you find with present day greys
tortoiseshell tints, which spoils the grey altogether.
You must never mate rabbits when either is in moult, as
the result will invariably be loose-coated young. Never
use a sire for three days after he returns from a show !
I have my reasons for saying this, but shall reserve
them, leaving the reader to pure conjecture. I believe
in mating mother and son together, in English, but only
once; and sister and brother together, only once. Keep
the two best from these matings, and then mate them to
the father. This you will find a good way of keeping
your colour together, and you are certain to breed some
close to the standard required. Of course, I am writing
from experience gained in the process of breeding six
champions!" This should be explicit enough for the
requirements of any intending breeder of English
rabbits. We have, however, recently had an oppor-
tunity of fully discussing several points upon the breed
with Mr. Linley and other breeders, and all agree that
there is a regrettable tendency amongst breeders so to
mix colours that it is producing disparaging results in
more than one direction. In fact, it is having a some-
what similar result to that which has followed the mix-
ing up of colours in the breeding of Dutch. Black and
white English are spoilt, so far as purity of colour goes,
in many instances by the presence of white ticks, or

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 45

hairs in the ears, and the black has a rusty shade instead
of that dense colour which marks such a striking contrast
with pure white. No one who knows anything of
present day English, and the high standard of excel-
lence which is being demanded, can avoid seeing the
importance of purity of colour and distinctness of spot-
ting. For instance, the cheek spots, to be nice, should
be of a presentable size, say about as large as a three-
penny piece. The ears should be well and cleanly cut
(in the dark fur) at the roots, not speckled, with the
speckles running on to the forehead. The more evenly
the eye circles are cut the better. They ought not to
run up nearly to the ear roots. If, as Mr. Linley
says, — and there is little doubt it is the result of
experience — the lighter the markings are in the buck,
consistently with plenty of work, the more idealistic it is
as a sire, then the necessities of idealistic propagation
argue in favour of the smaller as opposed to the very
heavy markings. This is not to say that both parents
need to be as above, but only to emphasize the
advisability of care in selection. On the point as to two
leg spots, or two cheek spots on one side, this will
sometimes occur in an otherwise well-nigh perfect
specimen. Some judges will tolerate two leg spots, but
not two on one cheek. The one is a defect openly and
immediately visible. The other needs looking for to
see it. Personally, we think that whereas both are
opposed to the standard, the one is a prominent defect
and the other not so much so. Consequently some would
attach more weight (to disadvantage) to one than the
other. On the question of the tortoiseshell shading in
grey and whites, undoubtedly it is sometimes seen, and
should be discouraged. On the question of weight — six
to eight pounds ! We think this a doubtful margin.
The English does not need to be an inordinately large
rabbit. Let anybody who tries to imagine the present
day ideal English, picture an eight pound rabbit, and
see what they would get ! Is this really meant to be a
serious piece of advice to breeders ? To get an English
up to 8 Ibs. in weight! In order the more clearly to
set out the points of this beautiful variety we annex the
standard of excellence adopted by the National English
Rabbit Club :—

46 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

HEAD MARKINGS — Points.

Perfect butterfly smut 15

Circle round eye ... ... ... ... 8

Eye spot to be clear from eye circle 6

Eye, clear and bold 3

Ears, neat and clear from white, not over 4 inches

long ... ... 5

BODY MARKINGS—

Neat saddle, to be herring-boned and clear in

any distinct colour ... ... ... 10

Sides of body to be nicely broken up in small

patches, and not to catch saddle markings 12

Chain markings as even as possible on both

sides ... ... ... ... ... 12

Leg markings — One distinct spot on each leg;

front legs 6 points; back leg 2 points ... 8

Belly or teat spots (there should be six) ... ... 6

Colour 5

Size and shape six to eight pounds, and between

a Silver and a Belgian ... ... ... 5

Condition — Good coat and not baggy ... ... 5

63

Total 100

It will thus be seen that the award of points for colour
is put at the low total of 5; but the remark " between a
Silver and a Belgian," with a weight maximum of 8 Ibs.
seems beside the mark. What size is a Belgian expected
to attain, if the maximum for a rabbit " between " that
and the Silver is to be 8 Ibs. ? The thing strikes us as
an oversight.

FLEMISH GIANTS.

The illustration we give of a specimen of this large
variety of the rabbit family is taken from a photograph
of Mr. W. Barton's (Brixton) Champion " Comrie

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 47

Lad." This rabbit won the Silver Cup at the Crystal
Palace Show in 1905 for the best young Flemish Giant.
It was shown by Mr. H. Stevens, of Leicester, and
immediately afterwards passed into the possession of Mr.
Barton, who paid a substantial price for the animal. Its
chief characteristics are its beautiful colour, ear carnage,
firm flesh, and soundness of feet. " Comrie Lad " has
since won numerous prizes for Mr. Barton, and gained
its title to Championship. The general points of the
breed are summed up in the standard of the National
Flemish Giant Club, an institution which has attracted
to its ranks many of the most experienced and successful
breeders of Flemish in the Kingdom; and which does
its utmost to encourage and stimulate perfection. Tl:e
standard of points laid down in the Club's rules is as
follows : —

Size and weight — Bucks shall not be less than n
Ibs.; does not less than 13 Ibs. Size shall
be considered irrespective of weight ... ... 30

Colour — Dark steel grey, with even or wavy ticking
over the whole of the body ; head, ears, chest,
and feet alike, except belly and under the
tail, which shall be white upon the surface
of the fur. Any grey, steel, sandy, or other
shade on the belly or under the tail, except
a streak of grey in each groin, shall disqualify 20

Body large, roomy and flat. Broad fore and hind
quarters. Does shall have dewlap evenly
carried ... ... ... ... ... 15

Legs and feet shall be strong in bone, large, and

straight ... ... ... ... ... 15

Head and Ears — Head shall be large, full and
shapely, eye shall be bold and dark brown
in colour. Ears shall be erect and
moderately thick ... ... ... ... 10

Condition — Full, short coat, firm in flesh, and free

from cold ... 10

Total 100

We strongly advise anyone about to take up the
breeding of Flemish Giants to buy the best blood that

48 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

their means will allow, and on no account begin with
young that can be purchased for 2s., or 35. apiece —
'* that will make winners," — such as the smart men of
the rabbit Fancy advertise from time to time. If the
best are acquired at the start, there is a better prospect
of the beginner's hopes not being crushed, for it may
be truly said that many a man has given up the Fancy
in disgust because he has been deceived in this manner.
Therefore, by way of warning — " Beware of dazzling
advertisements of prospective winners for sale at the
price of an old shoe." After a young doe has been
purchased, we advise the mating of the same to a stud
buck possessing superior points. For instance: if the
doe fails on feet, take care that you mate her to a buck
that excels in such. The same course should be
followed if the doe has not good body colour, or a light
chest, or bad ear carriage. Before breeding, make sure
that both rabbits are in perfect health, and that their
coats are free from any sign of looseness; and, in the
case of both, but certainly in that of the buck, be sure
that he is tight in skin — not flabby and loose. The
tighter the coat and skin, and the more the fur glistens
and shines, the better. If you pay particular heed -o
this matter, disappointments will not cross your path
so much ; if you neglect it, you may find the young have
long and loose coats instead of those which are short in
the fur and sharp. All these apparently little matters
help to swell the points of excellence of the rabbit when
judged by the standard laid down, namely 100 points.
When the young are a couple of days old, take the doe
right out of the hutch and see how many she has in the
litter. Pick out those which look red along the stomach,
or as Fanciers call them, the " red-bellied ones." These
are the correct ones to keep. If you desire to grow them
large, or as one breeder puts it — " to make giants of
them," only three or four should be allowed to remain
on the doe. Give the others to a foster doe; they will
do for the table. If you have no room for them, put
them under the water and drown them. Do not remove
the young left with the doe as long as she remains kind
to them ; but you must observe her closely as the young
grow older, for sometimes she will worry them,
especially if she is desiring to breed again. The longer
the young remain on the doe the larger they grow.

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 49

When the young are matured enough to take away from
the doe, do not be discouraged if they happen to look a
poor colour in their nest fur, but wait and see the result
of the first moult — what some breeders call " the ten-
weeks' moult," and then you will probably see a great
difference in the colour. We are of opinion that you
can never see the beauty of a Flemish Giant, or discern
truly what it will make, until it reaches the age of six
months. When it is in bloom, with that lovely steel
colour and shading, is the correct time to show a
Flemish Giant. Their coats in our opinion are some-
thing like a flower. They bud, bloom, and fade; then
moult again. You will require a large-sized breeding
hutch for Flemish; indeed, a large-sized hutch always.
A good size is 4 feet in length, 20 inches wide and 16
inches high. If you should be fortunate to breed a litter
of four from tip-top blood, and only one of them should
happen to be a champion, a long way in front of the
others in point of merit, do not despise the others. All
are bred the same way — possess the same blood, and,
in the end, may produce you better results than you will
get from the one that is a champion show specimen.
Never be too eager to part from the others of a litter
where a champion appears.

HIHALAYANS.

The Himalayan is familiarly known amongst
fanciers as " the black pointed rabbit." The breed has
not made such rapid strides in public favour, and as a
show specimen, as many others have done. The reason
usually given for this is their non-retention of colour in
the same degree as some of the other marked varieties.
And we think a further reason why they are not popular
with fanciers is that they do not appear to be so hardy,
or possess such a robust constitution as many others.
In the matter of non-retention of colour, some idea of
the disappointment often experienced by breeders of
exhibition Himalayans may be entertained when it is
pointed out that you may have a really first class show
Himalayan one week — dense in all the black points,
such as nose, ears, and feet, and pure in its white fur,

50 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

sleek, lively and strong; the next week the same rabbit,
and especially in hot weather, will be found to have lost
its depth of black, clearness of white, bloom and
brilliance, and be totally unfit for exhibition. A very
old breeder (20 years' experience) tells us that he has
frequently known those who have taken up the Hima-
layan Fancy with zeal and enthusiasm rapidly lose heart
through the rabbit so soon " going off colour." And
yet, in spite of this drawback, he writes us: — " 1
honestly believe that if anyone had the time and kept
a good number of Himalayans of the very best blood,
they would find this variety one of the most profitable
in the Fancy." The standard of points of the Himalay-
an Club, which we shall append at the end of this
chapter, is an excellent synopsis of the characteristics ot
the variety. Some of us are inclined to the view, how-
ever, after taking all points, and the difficulties of breed-
ing those points, into consideration, that the Himalayan
Club might allow an extra point or two for nose mark-
ing, but that is, after all, a mere matter of detail, as most
of the judges are so impressed with this view that they
usually attach greater importance to good nose marking
than the standard of the Club would seem to warrant
them in doing. What is meant by good nose marking ?
It is that the black fur on the nose should be as extensive
as possible, extending well down to the lips and jaw,
and up the face. This is perhaps the prettiest point in
an all-round pretty rabbit. Another item of interest, to
which much importance attaches, is the colour on the
hind feet, or hocks. The very best specimens now
shown are what is called " well-stockinged " —that is,
the black marking extends well up the leg past the hock
joint, and the density of black marking is well sustained
so as to make it cleaner cut, and more distinctly defined.
There were two does shown at the Tunbridge Wells
show of 1906, to which the judge (a specialist on the
variety) awarded first and second prizes, in addition to
the special prizes offered by the Himalayan Rabbit
Club, which excelled in this respect. Everything is
being done by this Club to advance the interests of the
breed. By reason of their susceptibility to lose colour,
or fade, Himalayans need somewhat special treatment.
Many breeders aver that these rabbits cannot be bred
to exhibition perfection out-of-doors. One very old

PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE. 51

and experienced breeder (Mr. T. J. Hearnden) says: —
44 I do not believe in breeding Himalayans out-of-doors.
I prefer in-door breeding. I have bred them in hutches
out-of-doors, but could never get them nearly so dark
in marking as those housed in-doors. Be sure you keep
them clean, as this is absolutely necessary if you want
to be successful in the show pen. Do not be afraid of
using plenty of sawdust on the hutch floor; do not, if
you can help it, allow any urine to get on to the rabbits'
feet, as this is ruinous to their colour." We do not
advocate keeping Himalayans in the dark, as some do;
but they certainly need a subdued light. And some
care is requisite in feeding this breed. Carrots are con-
sidered by some not to be suitable. Others oppose soft
food. But this, after all, is a matter for individual judg-
ment, regulated by circumstances and results. One
thing is very certain ; the Himalayan is not a lasting
rabbit, so far as its show career is concerned. We want
to lay additional stress upon the need for purity of
colour in the black points. What is wanted is a deep,
rich, lustrous black, not a mahogany, or brownish, or
rusty colour. The following is the standard of points
as adopted by the Himalayan Rabbit Club: —

Points.
Ears — Short, tapering, and well set ... ... 15

Nose mark — Even and well up between the eyes ... 15

Front Feet — Long, slender, and markings well up 15

Hind Feet — To correspond, markings well up hocks 25

(In all four of the above points the black fur

must be dense.)

Eyes — Bold, bright and pink 5

Tail — Neat and black ... ... ... ... 5

Shape — Neat 5

Coat — Short, fine, and pure white ... ... ... 5

Weight — About five pounds . 5

Condition 5

100

A white, or putty nose is a total disqualification. Dark
fur on head or body* except where specified above,
incurs a loss of TO points.

52 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

THE TAN RABBIT.

This variety is sub-divided. There are black and
tans and blue and tans. Either is very attractive. The
tan is a small and neat rabbit (the smaller in reason, the
better). It should be cobby in shape, and on no account
a heavy thick-boned rabbit. The colour, in blacks,
should be of a deep, not a rusty looking black. In
blues the colour should be pure and dense, but bright
and sparkling, not dull or brownish in tinge. The
triangle, or triangular shaped piece of tan fur at the
back of the ears, i.e., on the neck, should be of a rich
golden colour, dense but bright, and clean cut and well
defined. The face of the tan rabbit ought to be rich
black or blue, with tan nostrils — not nose, but merely the
nostrils. There should be a circle of tan fur round the
eyes, and along the edge of the jaw or jowl a well defined
rich and dense tan line, plainly visible. The front legs
and feet should be clear black or blue— as clear as
possible, but each toe should be pointed with tan. Neat
ears are requisite on a good tan. They must on no
account be long or heavy, and must be pure in the
black or blue, with outside and inside edges rich tan ;
and some breeders claim two distinct tan spots at the
base, resting on the forehead nearly. The hind feet
should be as densely tanned as possible on the inside,
the outside being black or blue. As much and as rich
tan colour on chest — right up to throat — as possible;
and a densely and fully tanned belly. Four pounds is
the weight advocated by some, but 4J- is the maximum
of the Tan Rabbit Club standard, which we shall
append. This is a rabbit which has been tamed and
vastly improved in a few years. We remember seeing
some specimens in a show in the south of London some
few years ago as wild as any conies. They hid under
the hay in the pens, and were poor in colour, and bore
traces of half cultivation. To-day the tan is a lovely
creature, and as tame as need be desired. There is some
difference of opinion in regard to the merits of certain
points of the rabbit. All attach much importance to
profusion and density of chest tan, but some give little
weight detrimentally to slight tan brindling on the fore
legs and feet. Others claim clear (of tan) legs and feet.
All seem to agree on a dense black face, but the trouble

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 53

seems to be to secure the profusion and density of tan,
and the clearness of face, feet, and saddle at one and the
same time. One thing is certain — the acme of perfec-
tion is to be found in the profusion of tan, and the clear-
ness of points, and to this end wise breeders are steering.
Mate black to blue. Sometimes black to black. But it
is not deemed advisable by some to pair two clear footed
rabbits together, as they declare you lose chest tan
thereby. The Belgian Hare has been used to cross in
to obtain tan, but it seems unnecessary, as the tan colour
on the tan rabbit is richer in many cases than that to be
met with in the Belgian Hare. This is the Tan Rabbit
Club's standard of points:—

Black and Tan. Points.

Black — Dense ... ... ... ... 10

Tan — Deep and rich ... ... ... 15

Triangle ... ... ... ... 5

Hind feet 10

Front feet 5

Chest and flank ... ... ... 5

Nostrils, eyes, and jowl ... ... 5

Ears, outer and inner margin ... 5
Black saddle, free from ticking ... 5

— 40
Ears short and black ... ... ... 10

Shape — Dutch ... ... ... 10

Eye— Full 5

Condition 10

Blue — Sound

Tan — Rich

Distribution — Same as black and tan
Shape — Dutch

Ears — Short and blue

Eye, blue and full

Condition

100
Blue and Tan.

100

Weight of an adult tan, 3 Ibs. to 4} Ibs.

54 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

THE BLUE IHPERIAL.

Since last we wrote upon this variety a little head-
way has been made in popularising them. It is only
rarely, however, that they are met with in the show pen,
and there were not above three exhibitors in competition
at the Crystal Palace show in 1907. Only recently we
were talking to an old fancier, and he said " I know
how Imperials are got!" but when he was asked to
explain, he declined, as if he had been asked to part
with so much gold dust. The origin remains a secret
so far as the general run of fanciers are concerned,
although there has been some speculation and a few
opinions hazarded. If the rabbit had become popular
—that is, if it had " caught on " at its first introduction,
there might have been experiments and persistent
enquiry, but it has not been so. By the vast bulk of
fanciers the Imperial has been looked upon simply as
an ordinary blue rabbit, has found little favour, and
consequently has made but little headway. Colour is
one of the chief points for consideration advanced by
the originator. This should be an even dark blue all
through, and in shape the rabbit should favour the
Belgian hare somewhat, save for raciness. In weight
it should not exceed 7 Ibs., should have erect ears, not
more than 5 inches long, deep blue eyes, and a soft and
bright coat, not too short. Miss Mabel Illingworth, of
Cambridge, is the originator of the Imperials, and clings
with true womanly tenacity to the secret of her pets'
antecedents. We are able to say that Miss Illingworth
is as enthusiastic as ever over the ultimate success of
the variety; and if ever anyone deserved success, this
lady does, for her perseverance in face of little but
discouragement. We give the standard of excellence as
published by the originator: —

Points.

Shape and Size — Somewhat like the Belgian Hare,
though not quite so racy, weight when full
grown, over 6 but not to exceed 7 Ibs. ... 25

Head — Long and narrow ... ... ... ... 10

Ears — Between 4 and 5 inches in length, round at
the tips, carried erect, and fairly close
together ..." ... ... ... ... 5

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 55

Points.

Eyes — Large, bright, and deep blue in colour ... 15

Colour — An even dark blue all over ... ... ... 25

Coat — Soft and bright, but not too short ... ... 15

Feet — Clean and straight, and free from bars ... 5

100

POLISH.

This rabbit is small — none are smaller. Its fur is
pure white, and its eyes should be of that beautiful shade
of ruby which looks glorious when taken in contradis-
tinction to the pure white fur which covers the whole
of the body. In fact, a Polish rabbit, to be a good one,
should not have a single discoloured hair. Its head
should on no account be long and thin, and the ears
well set on, short and tapering nicely to a point. On
no consideration should they be wide at the tips, but be
carried with a nice folding — not open, sow's ear fashion,
with the insides facing you as you take a frontal view of
the animal. What you must have is a chubby little
rabbit with a tight, short, springy coat — the shorter
the better — having a splendid gloss, and being as pure
in the white as possible. The Polish has a bold eye,
and the richer that eye is in ruby colour (some call it
pink, we do not) the better. Under no circumstance
must the rabbit be large, coarse, long in coat, or have
its ears carried widely. This spoils it. Polish are
fairly prolific, and although so small, are daily finding
fresh admirers. They are very quick in their actions,
and are sometimes a bit spiteful, as indeed are others;
this is largely the result of teasing or meddlesomeness.
A show specimen requires a good deal of care and
attention, and not a little grooming. Watchfulness
must be observed in the matter of bedding to prevent
the rabbit's fur from getting stained, and it should on
no account be allowed to have the full rays of the sun
upon it. A good thick sawdust bedding is needed all
the year, to absorb all moisture, and this should be
cleaned out frequently when saturated. Hay is needed
in winter, on top of the sawdust. In the standard of

56 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

points of excellence, condition and coat score nearly
one third of the allotted total, so that a fancier of Polish
in order to be successful, would need to devote some
time to preparation, or as the Fancy styles it, grooming.
Mr. G. A. Townsend, of Leeds, a great admirer and
excellent judge of Polish, tells us that to obtain the coat
and condition most desirable, it is necessary to have
both parents in the best of coat when mated. So that
like would seem to produce like in this case. It is not
always so with animals, although some critics would
try and persuade us to the contrary. Polish are in full
bloom at from eight to ten months old, and the best are
bred in winter, probably in January and February.
Those who keep them declare that these delicate and
fascinating dwarfs of the rabbit family are very clean in
their habits. Perhaps they are aware of the purity of
their dress, and that soils spoil. " The best way to
remove any dirt from the coat of a Polish," says the
authority just alluded to, " in places where the rabbits
cannot well reach to clean themselves, is by the aid of
a bread crust not too dry. Be careful the bread is clear
of grease, and mind you do not pull the ears in hand-
ling. Some use a damp wash-leather to rub the rabbit
down with. Polish need constant grooming, and a
good plan is to dip the hands in dry corn flour, which
will improve the coat, leave it glossy, and enable it the
better to defy the dirt of the show pen." Mr. Town-
send naively adds the advice to the groomer to see that
he leaves none of the corn flour in the coat, or " dire
consequences may follow." Of course he means allega-
tions of faking, etc. Some advocate the avoidance of
hay bedding, owing to the dust, etc., but that is a
matter of opinion in which we do not quite concur.

ANGORAS.

A great deal of energy and zeal on the part of
breeders of this variety has secured for it of later years
a considerable advance in popular favour. It is of no
use anyone with a limited stock of patience taking up
the breeding and exhibiting of Angora rabbits. If
they do they are foredoomed to failure. The great

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 57

length of an Angora's coat, its tendency to become
matted unless constantly brushed, and the necessity for
extraordinary precautions as to the condition of the
rabbit's bedding, etc., combine to establish a set of con-
ditions which none but the most patient and painstaking
could possibly fulfil. Up to a very few years ago there
was only one kind of Angora (the white) bred. Even
now, under modern conditions, that variety holds sway,
although what are called blues and fawns are fairly
numerous. In very large shows classes are given for
coloured Angoras as well as whites; and we have seen
and awarded high honours to a really nice specimen of
Dutch-marked, which we understand was sold for export
to America at a substantial price. It will be advisable
to take some of the principal qualities of the breed, and
allude to them in detail. First, then, as a rabbit for
table it is not to be recommended. Not on any
objectionable account, but it is more a rabbit of coat
than of flesh. Length of coat is a great
feature. We have seen full grown specimens with
fur from 4 to 5 inches long, and that is well within the
limit of exactitude. There is a great tendency to the
coat shortening at the shoulders and fore part, hence
much importance attaches to rabbits that excel in length
of fur in that particular. The face and ears ought to
be thickly coated with fur, and there should be tufts to
the tips of the ears. This latter is a symptom of
development in a specimen of excellence, and is looked
upon with great favour. The eye ought to be of a ruby
shade of colour in the whites, and the iris should follow
the colour of the body coat in the coloured specimens as
nearly as possible. The Angora will sometimes be
found sitting with its head nestled back into its body,
so to speak, in which case length of coat on the neck,
chest, and shoulders lends to the animal a rounded
appearance. It should have neat ears, carried in a semi-
erect position. Quality of fur too, is highly esteemed.
For instance, it should be silky and fleecy, although
we are inclined to think that too much stress is laid upon
this in mating, hence a coat of inordinate delicacy of
texture, which becomes too woolly and inclined to close
up and mat. Further, it militates against length and
fullness of appearance, inasmuch as it will be found
that the fur is not sufficiently strong in fibre to bear its

58 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

own weight so to speak. Such coats demand an extra-
ordinary amount of care, and daily brushing, and unless
they receive it, will soon spoil. We advise breeders to
get a little strength into the fibre of the fur as well as
quality. The feet should be thickly coated. Specially
made brushes are used to keep the coats of Angoras fit
for exhibition, and those often shown most successfully
belong to ladies ! The rabbit is placed on a pedestal —
upon which a cloth has been spread — and the fur
brushed upwards into shimmering waves by a light
application of the brush. Care is taken to brush the
rabbit well on its flanks and stomach. Good, clean,
wheat straw is the best to use for bedding purposes.
Hay will soon mat the coat. We herewith give the
standard of excellence adopted by the National Angora
Rabbit Club :—

Points.

Wool — Quality — Texture as silky as possible ... 30
Wool — Length and Quantity — evenly thick all over

(not to be matted) 25

Front — Full and prominent ... ... ... ... 10

Ears — Short, well wooled and tufted 10

Size and Shape — Round, snowball like, weight over

6 Ibs. ... 15
Condition — Clean, well fed, healthy, and well

groomed ... 10

100

Eyes — Pink, bright, and bold.

Legs — Straight and heavily wooled.

Tail — Large and full wool.

Head — Noble appearance and well wooled.

N.B. — Wool to be long and thick between and behind
the ears.

LOPS.

These were once upon a time in premier position
in the rabbit Fancy. Now-a-days there are fifty
breeders of Belgian Hares, Dutch, and Silvers, to one

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 59

of Lops. The reason is not far to seek. In estimating
the points of excellence, so much importance has been
attached to the length and width of the rabbit's ears
that artificial means have had to be resorted to to enable
a fancier of the variety to compete successfully. In this
process of growing long and wide ears, in addition to
selection in mating, artificial heat and hand manipula-
tion are great adjuncts. We have on many occasions
gone into the rabbitry of a well-known and successful
breeder of lop-eared rabbits, but never remember to
have done so without seeing him take down the ther-
mometer and note the temperature, either with satis-
faction or the reverse. " I like it 60 degrees," was the
usual remark. ** Then things go on all right." And out
he would fetch a rabbit on to a little table and commence
to manipulate its ears. This manipulation consisted in
gently gripping the ear roots with the thumb and finger
and gliding them gently along towards the middle of the
ears, exercising a slight and gradual pulling pressure all
the time. This gradual working had a wonderful effect
on the length of the rabbit's ears, and did not injure
them. In the lop-eared variety, length and width of
ears are the chief points of excellence. It is no un-
common thing to meet with specimens 27 ins. in length
by 6f ins. and 7 ins. in width. Ears of a nice substance
and free from knots are preferred. Another point which
is receiving more attention is straightness of fore legs,
shape of head — Romany — and fullness of eye. This
has reference to what is called an " all-property " rabbit,
i.e., one well developed in all other points, in addition to
ears. There are blacks, greys, fawns, sooty fawns (or
fawns with dark shadings), grey and white, black and
white, yellow and white, and tortoiseshells (or shaded
fawn and white). It is scarcely necessary to give the
standard, as the great point is length and width of ears.
There are classes at the best rabbit shows for various
lengths, i.e., 23 inch, 25 inch, and any length over that.
Sometimes the classification is even more widely
extended than that.

CHAPTER I
CAVIES.

ALTHOUGH there are many men and women in the
ranks of the Cavy Fancy, their number is far less than
those engaged in rabbit keeping. There seem to be
more inducements to keep rabbits than cavies, and the
uses to which the former can be put are more remunera-
tive than is the case with the latter. For all that, the
modern Cavy is a very beautiful little creature, and
whether it be the long-coated Peruvian, the harsh coated
and freely resetted Abyssinian, or the many sub-
divisions of the smooth-coated (or English), much pro-
gress has been made towards the point which goes to
make-up perfection in each. Notwithstanding the draw-
backs which exist to the keeping of Cavies as a self-
supporting hobby, they have at least this advantage over
mice — they are not so objectionable, when kept in
numbers, to the sense of smell as are mice. The Cavy
too (call it a guinea pig if you like, for Auld Lang Syne)
is a great favourite with children, and that is something
in its favour. The varieties are pretty, many of them,
their colours diversified, and their coats glossy and
attractive. In addition, they are clean animals, fairly
hardy, easily fed, and in many ways most desirable pets.
We shall deal first, in connection with cavy keeping,
with

HOUSING.

Having gone exhaustively into the subject of ac-
commodation for hutches, etc., in connection with the
keeping of rabbits, it will scarcely be necessary to repeat
the information there given. It will be sufficient to say

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 6 1

that what is true about rabbit keeping is equally applic-
able to Cavies. Whether the hutches be kept out of
doors, which can be done with equal success (as in the
case of rabbits), or whether in a shed, stable, loft, or
other building, the great point is to keep the Cavies
dry and free from draughts. If it is decided to keep the
animals out of doors, it will be well to set the hutches
against a brick wall, and to construct a roof over the
same as recommended for rabbits. A boarded roof can
be first constructed, giving the same the proper pitch
to allow the wet to run off freely. Upon this nail a
good covering of felt, well prepared. See that it over-
laps well at the joints. Procure sufficient gas tar to
thoroughly paint it over, and boil it, at the same time
adding a portion of pitch. When melted, brush this
well into the felt, looking carefully to the joints. When
brushed all over, throw upon it some gritty sand, which
will have the effect of hardening the " paint," and
making the roof watertight. Fill in the sides up to the
roof, and leave the front open. It will be as well to see
that the roof spans out far enough to allow of your
standing under to feed the cavies, etc., in inclement
weather. If kept in a shed or loft, care should be
exercised to prevent dampness or draughts, and to
secure ventilation at the same time. Nothing destroys
the health of any animal kept in confinement like damp
conditions or draught. It is impossible to repeat this
caution too often. The roof of an out-door structure of
the kind alluded to should be re-painted once a year,
as the destructive effects of rain, sun, and frost are
great. A roof thus attended to will last at least four
years. The same remarks apply to a shed thus roof eel.
Some prefer a corrugated iron roof, but we think it has
many disadvantages beside a felt one. Still, that is a
matter for choice. Tar is a splendid preservative of
either wood, felt, or indeed any other substance upon
which it is placed that is subject to the inclemencies of
the weather. Before you erect your shed, or shelter,
make up your mind how many hutches you wish it to
accommodate, and the size you intend having your
hutches. Leave room for contingencies, and then build
accordingly. The plan we should recommend for
hutches for Cavies would be as follows: — We should
make provision for single Cavies for breeding purposes,

62 PET RABBITS,' CAVIES, AND MICE.

and also have larger hutches for runs for the young of
either sex. There is no need to go to great expense
in the provision of hutches. Cube's sugar boxes are
amply large enough for three cavies, and make splendid
breeding hutches for single cavies also. We should
proceed to make the fronts on the same plan as rabbit
hutches, leaving ample door space, and as much open
front as is reasonable. Half inch rnesh netting is the
best and the safest for the open part of the front, as it
prevens the smallest cavy from escaping, and a cat
cannot maraud from the outside. Of course, if you have
a large shed or building to use, and space in abundance,
you can vary the size of your hutches for the purposes
to which they are to be put. Always give plenty of
hutch room if possible, and plenty of fresh air. At
night time it is best, in winter, to shelter the stock from
snowstorms, and sleet blasts, and this can be done either
by a canvas front let down by rollers, or by a sliding
shutter along the front of the shelter. We shall now
touch upon the subject of bedding, as that forms part of
the system called " Housing." The very best possible
bottom bedding for any animals of this kind is pitch
pine sawdust, with straw on top. Some prefer peat
moss and straw; others sawdust and hay. Always buy
your straw, and also your hay. We are no believers in
that which is begged from tradesmen as a make-weight
for custom extended. Especially would we warn intend-
ing cavy keepers against the use of " packing " from
tradesmen. It is dangerous from many points of view,
often it is of the worst quality, or badly harvested, very
frequently cat or mice contaminated, mildewed, or
musty. Whatever you give to your cavies in the form
of straw or hay bedding, don't give begged stuff. Buy
the best, it is the cheapest. One wrell-known breeder
gives us a piece of evidence on this question of bedding
which is entirely at variance, in its results, with our
experience with rabbits, but we have such a high regard
for his practical knowledge, that we gladly bow to his
opinion, so far as cavies go. He says: — " Keep them
warm. The warmer you keep a short-coated cavy the
shorter his coat will be, which is very necessary for
exhibition purposes." The straw should be short, but
perfectly clean and pure, and the hay fragrant and well
gotten .

PET RABBITS, CAVl'ES, AND MICE. 63

FEEDING.

Second in importance to housing (is it really so, or
are both equal ?) — is feeding. To venture to enumerate
the many views, good, bad, and indifferent, upon the
question of foods desirable for feeding pet stock, would
fill more pages in our book than we can possibly devote
to Cavydom. It is quite true that " what is one man's
meat is another man's poison," and many men are of
different minds. But there can be very little difference
of opinion upon the necessity to give stock the soundest,
cleanest, ripest, and most wholesome food. Quality
admits of no objection. Mr. W. W. Ward, of London,
a long-time and successful breeder of Cavies, says: —
" Feed on good sound oats, clover, or meadow hay,
and plenty of green food. Cavies are not very particu-
lar what kind of green food or roots they get, so long as
they do get them. And do not forget to give them a
good drink of clean, cold water at least once a day, as
this keeps their kidneys in good order. Milk, egg and
milk, good broad bran, plenty of clover hay, and an
occasional stiff meal of bran, Indian meal and
middlings will soon fit them for the show pen. If these
remarks on feeding are acted up to you will always have
your stock in good order, and illness and disease will be
practically nil." Before making any further remarks
upon food, we may well allude to the vessels in which
food is given. Some dispense with vessels altogether,
and their position is not an illogical one, if they see to
it that the hutch floors are scrupulously clean. This
can always be relied upon if the sawdust^ bedding is
kept clean, plentiful and fresh. Otherwise the practice
is inadvisable and risky. Hutches can always be kept
pure and sweet, floor and all, if they are lime-washed
or white-washed (use plenty of size) frequently. To
feed on the hutch floors gives the cavies a bit of exer-
cise to find the oats. But if the cavy keeper desires
system, uniformity, and appearance, then he will get
some proper food pans. These can be had in terra
cotta or white ware, and to any size in reason from the
makers who advertise in Cage Birds, The Poultry
World, and other live stock journals. If you
feel that your means will not allow of the
purchase of these food pans, you can use the

64 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

saucers for flower pots. I used these for rabbits, but
continual breakage sickened me, and the hutch floor was
the last resort. If you use food vessels at all, the
advantage of the proper trough is apparent. It is
heavy, and the cavies are not so likely to turn it over.
But if water is given, vessels will be absolutely necess-
ary, in which case it will be best to get the troughs.
Whatever else is done, let there be no fads in feeding
cavies. They do not want to be as fat as Berkshire
pigs just ready for the butcher; neither do they want
to be as lean and scraggy as some of the *' mutton "
sold in the poor districts of London at 2d. per Ib. What
is wanted is a sufficiency of firm solid flesh, liveliness,
and a shiny coat. These are all indicative of good feed-
ing and health. Feed as regularly as you expect your
own meals. We think twice a day ample. Let the
food be pure; let it be plain; give it regularly; watch
carefully that the food suits the stock; and give it in
variety, and clean. If you do not have food that is of
good quality and sound, your stock will suffer. Much
of the oat supply on the market is of an inferior quality,
and possesses very poor feeding properties. If you
will sample the different bulks of oats on the market
you will find they vary greatly. What is wanted is a
full oat, one that will scale at least 40 Ibs. to the bushel,
and if you are buying it is always as well to stipulate the
weight. Use your nose to the oat supply, and also
taste, indeed to all the food you give your cavies, and
see that it is sweet and free from mustiness. If you
select the best food you will have to pay a good price
for it, but it is money well spent. Beware of cat or
mouse contamination. Our advice is to give green food
or roots as the first meal, and if you will add dry food,
let it be a little bran. The evening meal should consist
of a good feed of oats, a handful of clover hay, nice and
thick in the stems, or meadow hay well gotten and fra-
grant to the smell. Green food or roots. We must
say here that the greatest care must be taken, or disaster
will result, to see that the green food is never wet or
frost-bitten, or the roots unsound or earthy! Watch
the oats and see that they are not full of green corns.
What are the green foods to be given ? As Mr. Ward
says cavies are not very particular. They will eat chick-
weed (the white flowering — the red flowering is poison-

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 65

ous), dandelion (which needs to be given sparingly),
hedge parsley, or " keck " as we used to call it, when as
boys we gathered it in the hedgerows for our rabbits,
and plodded home with it, stopping now and again—
Ben Bolt fashion, to " gather the (wild) flowers as they
grew "—plantain, grass, turnip tops, garden parsley,
groundsel, shepherd's purse, cauliflower, and roots. If
possible, the green food should be procured from places
where the soil is poor and the succulence of the green
stuff less plentiful. Then you need to observe great
regularity in feeding, as we have already hinted. We
firmly believe that upon this hinges a great deal of
success or failure to condition your stock. Some people
are so thoughtless and inhuman as to feed their cavies
— of course, we are not alluding to genuine cavy fanciers
—in a most irregular way. They never feed them at
the same time of day twice in a month. Sometimes they
do not give them more than one meal a day. Some-
times that is in the morning, at other times the morning
is skipped and they are fed at night. Put their keepers
on one meal in 24 hours and see how they would shape !
It is ridiculous, it is unkind. Finally, let us say that
if you use food vessels it will pay you to keep them
clean. Do not be afraid to wash them. Permanganate
of potash is cheap enough. A pennyworth dissolved
in a gallon of water will furnish a gallon of " syrup "
to be " broken down " for use daily. You may think
the vessels do not get impure and unclean quickly, but
they assuredly do, and need cleansing. See that this
is done.

BREEDING.

Ere we proceed one step further we feel called upon
to remark that there is an intimate connection between
feeding and breeding. One of the most important
things for a cavy breeder to see to is that he does not
overfeed his breeding sows. If he does, he will get
precious few young ones. If anyone was hasty in
asking — Where is the connection between feeding and
breeding, the secret is soon out. Great, overfat, lazy
sows are seldom breeders, and if they do breed, they
seldom rear their young. Do not let the reader go to
the other extreme, and conclude that we mean to preach
the doctrine that very thin sows breed the best. Not so.

66 PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

There is just as much and just as little logic in the one
premises as in the other. What is wanted here is the
exercise of reason and common sense. Over-fat folk,
for instance, are a nuisance to other people, and a misery
to themselves; but that is a long way from saying that
the most inspiriting sight one can look upon in
humanity is a person with a face the thickness of a steel
fender bar. Stamina is needed in the dam to nourish
and bring up her young. What is really necessary in
cavy breeding is to be careful that both parents are
healthy, in fairly good flesh, and in the best of coat.
Here are a few of a series of well tried rules: — Never
allow more than three sows to one boar, and these should
if possible, all be placed in his hutch at one time. This
prevents them from fighting, which they will do if you
allow several days to elapse, i.e., put in one at a time.
Do not, if possible, and if you want strong, healthy
young ones, allow the sow to bring up more than two
at a time. Always give the growing youngsters plenty
of hutch room, as without it you will never get large
pigs. You may keep the three sows in the one hutch
from the time of mating until near upon the period for
the young to appear, when the sows must be separated,
or ill-luck will result; and it is certainly advisable to
separate the young boars from the sows at a fairly early
age. We prefer it being done quite early, as it is just
as easy to let the sexes run separately in batches, as to
allow them to intermix, and much safer, and more satis-
factory. When you commence breeding, go upon
some well-regulated system. We have entered upon
the subject of in-breeding in rabbits, and it will be
sufficient to say that practically the same rules apply
on this head as to cavies. It will have to be done in
all cases where success is sought, but three things must
be present when you in-breed: Health, condition, and
perfection of points on both sides. To in-breed faults
is to perpetuate them. To rush hither and thither for
different sires just because they are winners is not in-
breeding at all. No doubt there are conditions in cavy
breeding different to rabbit breeding, but not on this
question of pedigree. Someone has talked about the
" Coffin of pedigree breeding," and taken a keen relish
in his ability to drive another nail into it! But pedigree
breeding has accomplished much, and will accomplish

PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE. 67

still more, after its assailants and their opportunism are
forgotten. It is well to moderate your zeal when breed-
ing. Do not expect too many litters in a year. Be
satisfied with two or three. There can be no doubt that
many fanciers overstep the bounds of prudence in this
respect. Another point worth remembering is to be
careful and retain, each season, some of your best young
stock. Cavies will not go on breeding for ever. They
get exhausted, and the progeny puny and disappointing.
Look well after the sows at breeding time, and mind
they are substantially fed and bedded. If you have a
sow in young, mind how you handle her, if you handle
her at all. On no account startle her, or subject her to
fright. And if you are an exhibitor, do not send a sow
to a show when she is in young. I have seen this done,
and have felt very indignant. Besides, a sow is not
in a fit condition to stand the ups and downs of a railway
journey at that time, especially when the " tender
mercies " of the average railway porter are considered.
Our advice is to select a certain variety — one you most
favour, and stick well to that variety. Do not attempt
to breed too many varieties. It is better to do a little
and do it well, than to attempt a lot and spoil it all.
Stick firmly to the idea of purity. Whatever variety
you take up, pursue the breeding of it on well-recognized
lines. Do not make "experiments" until you have
had experience. We have frequently met with fanciers
who have told us what matings they have tried in order
to obtain this point and that. Why need they have
done it, when there was at hand the article already
prepared, aye, and prepared by men with experience.
Look well to the nourishment of the sow when suckling
her young, and to the young when coming off the
mother. It is then that very frequently young cavies
go wrong. Do not remove the young from the sow all
at once, but gradually, or you may have milk troubles.
We will now pass on to the subject of

EXHIBITING.

There is no period of the fanciers' experience so
exciting as that at which he commences to exhibit. We
well remember our first win, many many years ago, in
the rabbit fancy. We have grown ever so much older

68 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

since then, but circumstances, so far as they affect
fanciers under similar conditions, have not altered or
modified in the least. About as happy as any man in
the world is the fancier who has just won his initial
first prize with the pets he has taken so much interest
in. In cavies, as in rabbits, condition is the most
important factor, next the possession of a good speci-
men. Because we lay so much stress upon condition,
it is no argument that we consider a bad exhibit shown
in good condition should beat a good one, badly shown ;
but the competition at most shows is so very level and
so very keen that an exhibitor cannot afford to risk
any chances by showing a specimen in poor coat, or low
in flesh, or too fat and podgy — destroying in many
instances the typical points of excellence. It may be
pointed out here, with advantage, that you can the more
easily feed a sow out of shape than a boar. Conse-
quently we are decided advocates of keeping the boar in
good condition and flesh, and give more latitude in that
respect than in the case of the sow. Milk is a splendid
conditioner. It gives gloss to the coat. But it is best
boiled first. In the case of cavies it is very necessary
to handle exhibition specimens frequently. You can
scarcely do it too frequently. There is nothing helps
a good pig over the stile so much as being well trained.
And it goes a long way to hide some of the faults in a
pig that cannot lay claim to absolute perfection. It is all
very well to protest against this view, as some will doubt-
less do, but let them undertake the duty of judging — and
have a cavy darting here and darting there — never still ;
they would copy the judge and say " Impossible to
discover all its merits." And it would perhaps suffer
the penalty. We are aware that good quality, shape,
coat, and colour can be seen, but it will be conceded they
can be estimated to better advantage if the cavy is quiet
and well trained, than if it is wild and intractable. How
much easier and more pleasant it is to handle a well-
trained cavy than a wild one ! Any way, we throw out
the caution and the advice, and leave it there. Results
justify our remarks. See that your show specimens are
well fed some hour or two before being sent on a
journey, and that they have plenty of hay, and a little
green food in the box, with sawdust at the bottom.
Use baskets in summer, boxes in winter. Make sure

PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE. 69

that your fastenings and straps are secure, and that
your name and address are plainly discernible on the
inside of the package lid. Give the booking clerk at
the parcels office ample time before the train leaves to
enter up your package. Do not forget also that the
booking of live stock entails a little more labour for
the clerk than an ordinary parcel ! Another point worth
noticing is the saving that may be eftected in the
carriage bill by using proper baskets or boxes. We
have saved as much as 25 per cent, by care in the
selection of baskets for certain journeys. Half a pound
extra in weight on long journeys will often make great
difference in the cost for carriage, and that is worth
saving. You should always groom your exhibits before
sending them off to a show. Indeed this should be a
persistent practice daily long before the show. Well
groomed exhibits pay for the trouble expended upon
them. Carefully study the schedule, and mind you
enter in the right classes. Always send fees with entry,
to save the Secretary the trouble of applving for them.
Mind that the feet of your exhibits are clean, and their
toilets properly arranged. Look well to the cavies when
they return home from a show. A little nourishing
food, and a warm bed in winter will be wise treatment,
as the atmosphere of many shows is hot, and the travel-
ling boxes confined and free from draught. The sudden
transference to a roomy hutch, without bedding in
plenty, might have detrimental effects.

DISEASES.

If a case of diarrhoea arises, treat very much as you
would in the case of rabbits, alluded to in chapter there-
on, in fact the same remark applies all round to the
cavy. For colds, four to six drops of sweet spirits of
nitre in milk twice a day is good. For complaints of
the eye, such as running cold, Mr. Spiers (Birmingham)
will send you a very good lotion. Skin disease may be
battled with by the use of blood-cooling medicine, such
as flowers of sulphur or magnesia in the food. Study
well the hints given in the chapters on rabbit diseases,
and you will not go far wide, but cavies, if kept clean,
on sound food, and not in an overcrowded state, will
not be troubled much with disease.

;o PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

KEEPING CAVIES FOR PROFIT.

Unlike rabbits, there is no chance of realising profit
from cavies as a food supply. If you were to suggest
their use as such you would immediately be ruled out,
and therefore there is no means of recouping any out-
lay in that direction. We have heard it suggested that
cavies are very nice when cooked. So we have hedge-
hogs. But who thinks of hedge-hogs in connection
with the general food supply ; and who dreams of cavies
in such a connection, any more than an Englishman
dreams of horse-flesh in the place of beef? There is a
market, so we have been told, for cavies for the purposes
of snake food and the like. But snakes do not " much
more abound " in these isles, and the Zoo would provide
but a limited demand when set beside the supply.
There is a market for surplus stocks, or wastrels, to be
sold as pets, but the demand even here is not over strong.
So that the outlet for absolute profit-making would seem
to be chiefly confined to the " Fancy " itself, and
to that portion of it who pay good prices for the honour
of possessing and exhibiting winners. Intrinsically,
and apart from " Fancy," the best cavy is not worth
more than 2s. 6d. We say this in no disrespectful way.
We have a very high regard for cavy fanciers, and
admire their persistent efforts to improve and perfect
the several varieties. But we are called upon to con-
sider the question of profit, and are driven to the con-
clusion that beyond the realm of mere " Fancy " there is
a very very limited, if any, profit to be made out of
cavies. Nevertheless, in that realm, many and many
a good sale has been effected, and many a breeder has
done well by his cavies.

CHAPTER II.

THE PRINCIPAL VARIETIES.
PERUVIANS.

Perhaps the most difficult to keep of all the cavy
tribe are the Peruvians. They may be called the
Angoras of the Cavy Fancy, and just as much as
Angora rabbits, they are especially suitable for ladies'
pets. The beauty of a Peruvian Cavy's coat is very
attractive to a lady, and the fair sex have in times past
greatly distinguished themselves in the keeping and
exhibiting of Peruvians. Length and quality of coat
weigh more heavily than mere colour, and items of
transcendent importance are what are called the
" sweep " — or long flowing hair behind, and the head
furnishing, or " front." When in full war paint a
Peruvian cavy possesses great length of coat, and can
easily hide its head behind the veil of its head furnish-
ing. It is said by some that these animals are not
shown so large in size as they once were, and this is
attributed to the practice of sending young ones to
shows, where they are kept for days often without their
accustomed food. As opposed to this view, one of the
leading judges of the present day holds that the quality
of the Peruvian cavies shown now has never been
surpassed. A great deal of attention has to be paid
to the coats of Peruvian cavies, and it is said of one
lady admirer of them, that she would sit for hours at
a stretch brushing and grooming the coats of her pets.
This may seem an absurd waste of time, but what is
worth keeping at all is worth keeping well. Just as is
the case with Angora rabbits, if the coats of Peruvian
cavies are not kept continually brushed they will become
matted and spoilt. Peruvian cavies which are kept for

72 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

show purposes, ought certainly to be provided with
separate hutches, or they will assuredly get their coats
damaged. Any food that is stimulating to the growth
of coat should be given, but care must be taken here to
see that it is not of a kind to overheat the system or
derange the liver. They need patience to get them to
perfection, and we opine it is the knowledge of the
unlimited patience needed that deters so many from
taking up the variety. One thing that can be done with
success is to grease the coats of Peruvian cavies to
assist the growth. Now we shall be accused of advo-
cating trickery. Well, we have at the present time
some Yorkshire terriers, and a close examination of the
coats of each, i.e., cavies and terriers, has satisfied us
that there is much in common between them. The
texture is about the same, and the gloss needed on a
first class specimen about similar. Not only does the
greasing process produce a lovely gloss, but it tempers
the hair, and prevents that brittleness which often re-
sults in broken hairs. In the case of exhibition terriers,
one plan is to keep the dogs for a week in grease, then
wash them and keep for a week out of grease. But if
cavies are judiciously greased — that is if the grease is
rubbed well into the hair roots, and not left on in thick
substance, as the hair grows, they will not need wash-
ing. You must never show them with coats so greasy
as to be detected. Care should be taken always to tie
up the sweep and any other long part of the coat in such
a manner as to prevent it getting soiled and broken in
the hutch floor. A good deal depends upon training
the coat. It should be rolled up in linen rags, and so
tied as to avoid curling, and be frequently unrolled and
brushed the way it is desired it should fall when undone
for the judge. It is impossible for that official to gauge
the length of coat and true merits of a Peruvian cavy
unless he does unroll its coat, although we know of one
judge who professed to be able to do so. Well ! In
concluding these remarks upon Peruvian cavies, we will
append the recipe for the grease with which we dress
our terriers' coats: — Four ounces of cocoa-nut oil; two
ounces of olive oil; two ounces of castor oil; one ounce
of palm oil; one ounce of cantharides; and two drachms
of oil of rosemary. If you take a jar, and the recipe to
a chemist, he will have it ready for you the next day.

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 73

It is pleasant to the smell, full of hair preserving and
growth promoting properties, and of as much value to
the human hair as to that of Yorkshire terriers or
Peruvian cavies. There is no need to try it unless you
like; but here is the recipe if you care to use it. It is
best to bed Peruvians on straw, and to place such in
their travelling boxes or baskets, when sending them
to shows.

ABYSSINIANS.

We shall designate these the Irish terriers of the
Cavy Fancy. The frequency with which exhibitors
allude in terms of praise to " harshness of coat " is
sufficient evidence of the value of that property in the
variety under consideration. An Abyssinian cavy with
a soft coat is very very heavily handicapped to start
with. As far as colour is concerned, they are split up
into several, but at the general run of shows the colours
compete together. To show the variety there is in
respect to colour, we may mention that we have handled
some good whole coloured reds, and we have judged
some fine and well-broken tortoiseshells. If we have a
preference, in this respect, we think the tortoiseshell
Abyssinian a most beautiful colour. A great point of
excellence in all cavies is shape and size. To be a good
one, an Abyssinian must not be long and snipy in
head — rat-headed, as we shall call it for present purposes
—but in arch of neck to shoulders and outline of back
it should rather resemble a well fed short-headed bacon
hog. On no account should a cavy be long and snaky
in head. A good Abyssinian cavy should have its body
coat profusely adorned with rosettes — the more of them
the merrier and better for show purposes. These
rosettes should be perfectly grown — not made. This
remark is called for by reason of the peculiar impression
one gets on account of the condition of his hands after
handling some Abyssinians. It would astonish an
unitiated person, — who might wonder at the mention of
" rosettes " in the coat of a cavy — to find how perfectly
the hair turns in the shape of rosettes on the coats of
these animals. The more numerous these rosettes are
— if perfectly formed — the better. The coat must be
harsh and firm, and the rosettes separate and distinct,
not mere curls running one into the other. We have

74 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

seen some Abyssinians with what we shall call ricketty
rosettes, curling in and out like the coat of some thick,
wavy-coated Pomeranian dogs. The twists in the coat
may be called rosettes, but it is a libel on the term to
use it in such a connection.

ENGLISH OR SMOOTH HAIRED.

These come next in order, and it will be found that
blacks and reds are perhaps the most numerous, but
there are also creams, chocolates, tortoiseshells, tortoise-
shell and whites, agoutis (golden and grey), brindles,
Dutch-marked, and we have seen some Himalayan
marked, but they were very moderate specimens.

SELF-COLOURED CAVIES.
BLACKS.

There are black cavies and black cavies. This way
of putting it often seems a little to smack of Irishism,
but it is correct for all that. What is meant by the
expression in this instance is that there is a black which
is black, and a so-called black which in reality is of a
rusty dingy tinge of colour — anything but a real black.
It may well be said of the black short-haired cavy that
points of extreme importance are size and shape.
Picture a good fat bacon hog for body shape, and a
short head. A long, rat-shaped head is not indicative
of a good smooth cavy. The coat should be short,
free from all white hairs, and the colour should run
well down to the roots of the hair. A nice short sharp
coat is a great desideratum, and the colour should be
dense and the coat glossy. The ears should be as black
as the coat, and the belly and feet ditto. Many black
cavies fail sadly underneath in the matter of density
and purity of colour, but when they are got to perfection
they are simply grand in richness and depth of black.
We remember handling one the property of our
esteemed friend the popular cage bird judge, Mr. J. H.
Payne, not so very long since. This cavy had won
many prizes, was grand in shape, and splendid in

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 75

colour. Too much stress cannot be laid upon size and
shape in this variety, provided always there is quality,
i.e., shortness and glossiness of coat. There is very
little doubt that in-breeding to fix the colour led to a
decrease in size, but that has been remedied, and now
we see some really grand and sound coloured blacks,
combining shape with colour and size.

REDS.

Much the same remarks apply to these as to the
blacks. It is shape, colour, and quality of coat. Some
of the best breeders of reds have climbed to the top of
the exhibition ladder by breeding for shape, colour,
short glossy coat, ears, and eye. So dense in colour
have the red cavies been bred that sometimes doubts
have been expressed as to their being natural !

CHOCOLATES AND CREAMS

Are few and far between compared to the blacks and
reds. We recently saw some very fair chocolates at
a Southern Show, but the colour is not yet fixed in density
like unto the blacks and reds, i.e., it is more on the
surface and less down to the roots. Further, the shape
of the chocolates is not so pronounced. Creams are by
no means popular, but are progressing.

AGOUTIS (GOLDEN AND GREY).

These, whether golden or grey, should have good
short coats, the undercolour should be rich and dense,
and the ticking (or darker hairs) carried all over the body
right down to the toes. The difficulties in connection
with the agouti cavy are largely centred on the belly.
Those who aim at perfection ask for the ticking to be
carried not only on to the feet, but the bellies as well.
This may come in time. At present it has not been
achieved. Agoutis do not want to be too dark, but in
the goldens the body colour should answer to the name
given.

BRINDLES.

These are very beautiful, when the colours are well
broken up. It must be a real and true admixture, much
after the style of a good brindle bull-dog, not mere

76 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

patches, but brindling proper. Here again shape adds
to the value of the cavy, and the colours must be
lustrous and the coat shorthand springy.

TORTOISESHELL AND WHITES.

Mr. W. W. Ward (Finsbury Park), the owner and
breeder of Champion ** Dolly," writes thus on this
beautiful variety: — " How to breed tortoiseshell and
whites : Always select the best shaped pigs. Those with
good heavy heads, broad shoulders, Roman nose,
sound ears — not flesh coloured, nice short coats, as
small in patches as you can get them, and as free from
brindling or intermixing of colours as possible. Always
avoid breeding from banded specimens, as once you
get the band in your stock it requires a great deal ol
breeding out. I would rather breed from tortoise and
white cavies that show brindling than from banded
specimens. A banded pig is one on which one colour
goes in a band right round the body. One of the most
important points to remember in connection with this
variety is purity of colours. There should be nice rich
raven black, good deep red, and pure glossy white
patches, which should be as small and clean cut as
possible, as numerous as you can get them, and as well
placed in variation. Further, a first-class specimen
should be as well patched underneath as on top." It is
unnecessary to add anything to the above, from a
breeder of many years of successful experience.

TORTOISESHELLS.

A somewhat similar piece of advice as to shape and
coat texture applies to tortoiseshells as to the tortoise-
shell and whites. It must be remembered, however,
that a tortoiseshell is not a brindle. A tortoiseshell pig
should be very rich in the colour sub-sections, but
should not be a brindled pig, i.e., the different colours
should be separate and distinct. There should be an
utter absence of white.

BRINDLES.

Unlike the tortoiseshell, and the exact reverse, in
the case of colour setting, a good brindle wants to be

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 77

as much intermixed as possible, to show also the
different colours in equal profusion. Shape, size, and
coat are as important in this as in any other variety of
cavy. They are trying, in fact have succeeded in
bringing out a kind of fawn brindled pig, and it is very
pretty, but not nearly so rich in tone, as yet, as the well
understood brindle. Of course, the aim is not red, as
in the old brindle, but a rich fawn colour to take its
place.

HIM ALA VANS.

We have seen a few of these, marked after the
Himalayan rabbit, with black nose, ears, and feet. The
Himalayan-marked cavy is very much in its infancy at
present, and does not seem to have " caught on."
The specimens already seen have been very pale in
points, and the body colour has not been of that pure
white so much needed to show the contrasts. There
is time for improvement, however.

DUTCH-MARKED.

These are very beautiful, as well as being exceed-
ingly pretty and valuable. The ideal is the Dutch
rabbit. There are reds and blacks. One of the greatest
difficulties appears to have been to get well-defined feet
stops and freedom from brindling. But that has been
conquered in a few instances, and some well nigh
perfect specimens have been penned, more numerous
perhaps in the reds than in the blacks. Flesh-coloured,
or partially flesh-coloured ears have been the cause of
much bother ; but in the pilgrimage to Mecca there are
sure to be stormy places met with by the way ; and some
do not condemn, with the same random rashness as
others, a fourth-point defect when three-fourths of the
points of excellence are present. Everyone does not
think alike, and there is yet room for difference of
opinion.

CHAPTER I.
MICE.

IF ANYONE had mentioned at one time of day their
intention of writing and publishing anything in book
form on the subject of mice as pets, they would have
been fairly laughed out of court. Yet, to-day there are
thousands of these attractive little creatures bred in
captivity, and upon well-recognized principles as to
pedigree and system. There are two clubs for mouse
fanciers, and at many of our live stock exhibitions the
classes given for mice are more largely patronised than
either those for rabbits or cavies. Moreover, what
would seem to be fabulous prices (for a mouse) are
repeatedly being paid for select show specimens. Keep-
ing fancy mice must be purely a hobby, for there is no
other use to which they can be put, however excellent
they may be. To give some idea of the extent to which
they are bred we will here mention some of the varieties.
There are silver greys, silver fawns, and silver browns,
tortoiseshells, sable and whites, tricolours, black and
tans, blue and tans, sables (dark and medium), agoutis
(golden and grey), Dutch-marked, evenly-marked, varie-
gated, broken, creams, whites with pink eyes, ditto with
black eyes, self-silvers, blacks, blues, chocolates, fawns,
and we do not think this quite exhausts the list. But
it will suffice to show the diversity there is in regard to
the colours of these little rodents. We shall first touch
upon

HOUSING.

Just as in the case of rabbits or cavies, fancy mice,
to be kept successfully, must have freedom from damp
and draughty conditions. Unless this is ensured, the
stock will be puny, bad coated, and miserable to look
at. Some say keep them in a cellar, others in a loft, yet
others in an attic, but wherever it is let it be dry. More-
over you must see to it that you place an effectual barrier

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 79

(if you can) upon the intrusion of common or domestic
mice. If not they will damage and probably enter the
cages of the Fancy varieties. Some erect shelves round
the walls of the room, others have a table on which to
stand the cages. Either will do. But of one thing be
certain. Unless you keep them scrupulously clean y$u
will know all over the house that mice are in it. There-
fore give plenty of ventilation, and see that the open
window is sufficiently protected to keep out marauders, #*
such as cats. If you place some half-inch mesh netting
across the opening that will be effectual. Take care
that you disinfect your mousery and your cages often,
and thus guard against the creation of disease. On
this subject, Mr. W. R. Hamlin, of Epsom, a most
successful breeder and exhibitor of fancy mice, writes: —
" If you have not much room at command in which to
keep your pets, then make up your mind only to keep
a few. It is no pleasure to you to see them yourself, or
show them to others, if you have a lot kept cramped up
in a small space. Besides, it is not healthy for the mice.
Half the disease in any live stock comes from keeping
them in an overcrowded state. I have never
experienced any difficulty in keeping my stock. They
are always healthy, and always in good condition. The
best cages to use, to my mind, are the ' Maxey ' breed-
ing cages. They are flat ones, 12 inches long, 7J
inches wide, and 4} inches high, wired on top, with the
nesting part 4^ inches by 7J inches. The hole for the
mice to enter the nesting compartments should be two
inches across, and there should be a hole about i J inches
across in the top of the nesting compartment door.
This hole should be filled in with perforated zinc. The
fronts of the cages open outwards, and make it very
easy to clean them out, feed the mice, etc. There are
a number of different pattern breeding cages, but the
one I have described is the one I like best of any. Some
of the best mice have been bred in Fry's chocolate boxes ;
but these do not give sufficient room for the mice
to my mind." Mice are called vermin, but for all that
they are eminently clean animals, and need to be kept
scrupulously clean. You can, of course, use any kind
of cage you please in which to house your mice. Some
use the revolving wheel cage, and have it made sensibly
large. But it is not advisable to keep mice always in

So VET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

such. You can construct, or have made for a small
sum, any pattern of stock cage or single specimen cage
you may desire. If you are handy at amateur carpen-
tering you can make your own cages to order. Mr.
Hamlin continues on the point of housing: — ;' It does
not matter much where you keep your mice so long as
rt is dry and free from draughts. Mice can, provided
they have warm cages and nice bedding, stand any
amount of cold. Mice kept in draughty places, soon
start a wheezing or singing sort of noise, which is
miserable to listen to. I might add that when cleaning
out the cages it is advisable to sprinkle a little disinfec-
tant in the corners. I use Sanitas, which is really good
for this purpose. For the runs I think it best to use
pine sawdust, which you can buy at sawmills for about
is. per sack. This quantity would last the ordinary
mouse fancier about 12 months. For bedding, use hay.
It is so much better than flocks or cotton wool. The
latter, in fact, is very dangerous to use because it clings
to their feet, and the mice, being clean little things, are
constantly licking and cleaning their feet. In this
process, if cotton wool is used, they are constantly
licking the wool into their stomachs ; this very soon kills
them. It is well, especially in hot weather, to clean
them out thoroughly twice a week, being very careful
to scrape out the corners of the cages. It is also well
just to scrape off the husks from the oats, etc., every
day. In any case, never let the mice go more than a
week without cleaning them out."

FEEDING.

This is a most important part of the mouse fancier's
curriculum. To ensure a mouse, or any other animal,
being kept in good condition, you must feed it properly
on the best quality of food. All mouse fanciers, like
rabbit and cavy fanciers, do not swear by one particular
system of feeding, but all agree in recommending the
best quality. In the case of mice, which are given milk
and soft foods, it is wise to use vessels for the purpose,
to prevent mess, and secure sweet and wholesome con-
ditions. For dry foods some recommend oats, canary
seed and millet, hemp seed and linseed. There again
all seem agreed that oats are the chief diet. But mice

SET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 8 1

do love canary seed, and have caused the death of many
a canary to get it. Our advice is to be sparing with
the hemp and linseed — give it as a tit-bit. For soft
food some recommend — most fanciers do — bread and
milk. But caution is enjoined as to quantity. Some
give boiled rice, some one thing, some another. As
green food, many of the common weeds are recom-
mended. Dandelion leaves, white flowering chickweed,
groundsel, garden lettuce, watercress, carrot, potato,
etc., are also given. Mr. Hamlin says:— "My usual
diet is as follows — For morning feed, give about a table-
spoonful of plain canary seed, changing it occasionally
for white millet seed. This is all that is required for
the morning. For the evening meal I give a handful
of the best oats it is possible to buy, and sometimes, just
as a treat, I give a piece of Osborne biscuit. About
three times a week I give bread and milk. The best
thing to do when giving this latter is to get the bread
as stale as possible, cut it up into small pieces about
the size of a walnut, and pour the water over it. When
it is properly soaked squeeze out the water and pour a
little milk over it. But even then I always squeeze the%
milk out again, as it does not to give it to the mice in
too sloppy a state. If you do so, it makes their coats
loose. O course, in the summer time it does not hurt
to give them a few blades of grass, which they greatly
enjoy." We may just add here, that the first thing to
remember in feeding mice is that they need to be fed
regularly and as punctually to time as possible. To
the casual observer this may not seem of importance,
but it is true, nevertheless.

BREEDING.

It is always advisable when breeding mice — it does
not matter what variety you go in for — to have the best
bred stock you can get. It may be a little more ex-
pensive on the first outlay, but the breeder will find that
it is cheaper in the end. Not only so, but it saves a
lot of time which would otherwise be occupied in the
task of breeding out defects which are generally to be
found in second rate stock. Often we have heard men
say they could buy this or that specimen at such a price
— usually a ridiculously low one. We wait a while,

82 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

and it is certain that these self same people very soon
find out their error and the difficulties that they have
to meet and overcome. It is a hard enough task for the
experienced breeder to get rid of defects, and it is not
always safe for him to be making experiments either.
What then are the risks run by the inexperienced ?
What we advise is — make up your mind what variety
you would like to go in for. We always recommend
beginners to start in one variety only. You will find
it to your advantage to do so, in many ways. In the
first place, if you have a few of one variety you are
the better able to concentrate your attention upon them.
Let it be clearly understood that no breeder will succeed
who does not give his or her mind to it, and master all
the details necessary to thoroughly understanding the
variety selected. If you keep a number of different
varieties, there is no concentration, and a division of
interest which must inevitably bring failure. Select a
variety you most admire. Nail the motto " Excelsior "
up in your mousery. Then go to a breeder who has also
made a name by successfully exhibiting that variety.
»Buy a pair, or three — say a buck and two does. Do not
be hasty in your selection of a person to buy from.
Study well the show reports, and remember that it is not
always the person who wins the largest challenge cup
who is the most successful breeder. Sometimes persons
win very high honours at one show, and are not heard
of again for some time, so do not buy the first cheap
winner you see advertised. Winners are not always
bred from winners. At starting do not buy old stock,
but select them from 10 to 16 weeks old, as this gives
you a chance to breed a few litters before age creeps on
them. Mice are old at 12 months. Some breeders
advise that all stock over 12 months old be killed. Do
not buy your stock from here, there, and everywhere,
but stick to your selected strains, and be careful in the
selection of your own breeding stock. If you like buy
three does in young, mated as the breeder you have
gone to had mated them for himself. We mean this —
buy three does he knows breed the right stuff. Give
him a good price for such. If you buy a buck and two
does, pair them up, and when you find your does in
young, take the buck away. When the young ones
arrive, let them alone until they are four or five days old,

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 83

and then select what you think are likely to be the best
coloured or the best marked ones. Weed out and
destroy the weaklings and the wastrels, leaving the doe
to rear say three, but certainly not more than four. It
is impossible for a doe to do justice by a litter of 9 or
10 (sometimes a dozen) so well as she can three. If you
want size in your mice you must never let a doe rear
more than three or four. Always bear in mind that you
want to breed for quality, not quantity. Keep only the
very best. Inferior ones are of no use to anyone, and
yet they cost just as much to keep as first-class speci-
mens. The period of gestation in mice is from 18 to
21 days. It is astonishing at what an early age mice
will begin to breed. They have been known to breed
at eight weeks old, and the young bucks will sire young
at 5 or 6 weeks old. Small wonder that mice multiply
so quickly. Does, when at mature age can be kept
together, but bucks usually fight each other to the death.
Weed out the bucks, and keep only the cream of them.
Fourteen weeks old is about the time to begin to breed
from mice.

EXHIBITING.

In this matter do not be afraid to send to a show
with an extensive classification. The more limited this
is the less chance you stand of getting in the prize list.
Mixed classes are always harder to win in than those for
a specified variety. The first thing to do is to obtain
schedules of the shows in various centres. Select your
show, and make your entry on the form usually sent
for the purpose with the schedule. Be watchful in this
matter, and mind you enter as per schedule. Let your
entries go off in time. It helps the secretary, and sets
your mind at rest. Be sure, if you don't want to sell
your specimen, to put a really prohibitive price on it.
It is doubly incumbent on an exhibitor to be careful how
he fills up his entry paper, as, whatever mistakes he may
make cannot be set right afterwards. Put sawdust, or
some prefer bran, in the show cages, and a nice supply
of soft, sweet and good hay. It is as well to cut this
up before putting it in the cages, so that it will not be
so bulky and curly. Don't stint the supply. Also see
that enough food is sent in the cage to last until the
mouse gets home again, as it frequently happens that

84 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

mice do not get fed at a show. Oats and seeiis should
be put in. Put a piece of soft food — say bread soaked in
milk and the milk squeezed out again — in the cage when
starting the mouse out to a show. You will want a
travelling box made to take say two, four, six, eight, or
more cages; and this box must be well ventilated, but
so as to avoid draught. Be sure that the travelling box
is securely fastened, and the labels placed right. A
great point with reference to exhibition stock is con<li-
tion. It is throwing money away to exhibit mice when
out of coat or low in. flesh, or unwell. What is wanted
is a short, sleek, shiny, flying coat. By this latter is
meant a coat that will, if turned back the wrong way,
fly into its place instantly, and look as smooth and sleek
again as if it had never been ruffled. This ^an only be
secured by keeping the stock in health and well and
properly fed.

DISEASES.
ASTHMA.

Mice, like all other animals, are subject to disease.
A great deal of this springs from overcrowding or over-
feeding. If these conditions are absent, they are gener-
ally pretty free from disease. One of their diseases is
denoted by the presence of a kind of whistling or sing-
ing. This is in reality Asthma. It is miserable to the
breeder to hear it, and almost impossible to cope success-
fully with it. The disease will often be set up by reason
of the mice being kept in a draughty place. If they do
start wheezing, take the matter in hand in time. Re-
move the affected ones from out all draughts, keep them
warm and cosy, and give them a pinch or two of linseed,
and possibly a little hemp would do them no harm.
You may thus be able to check it, but if they get very
bad it is best to destroy the sufferers. Mice are very
hard to doctor for this or, indeed, any disease, but for
Asthma it may be found beneficial to sprinkle a few
drops of the oil of eucalyptus on the bottom of the cage,
and add a little glycerine to the bread and milk. There
is a recipe for colds which is held by Mr. H. J. Spiers,
of Brighton Road, Birmingham, which is very effica-
cious in the case of colds in rabbits, cats and even dogs.

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 85

We have proved the value of this mixture amongst all
three, and see no reason why, with care, it should not
be applied in the case of mice. Another trouble which
visits the Mousery is

SKIN DISEASE.

This is generally similar to what is known as
eczema in dogs and other animals, and is the most
common affection known to mice. It should be treated
by stopping all stimulating foods and adding a little
flowers of sulphur or magnesia to the soft food. It is
best to isolate all cases, and the bare or scurvy-nke
places on the skin may be treated every day with
Spiers' ** Perfection " eczema ointment, or with vaseline
and flowers of sulphur mixed. Care should be taken in
the use of the ointment, as the mice are sure to lick it
off, although if they do it would do no actual harm ;
what is intended is that they may get an overdose of
relaxing medicine this way. If they should do so,
however, the ultimate effect will be to aid in clearing
the blood, even if it leads to distress. Next in order
comes

EAR CANKER,

And a very irritating affection it is, causing acute
itching, and often severe pain. It is hard to treat,
simply because the mice scratch out almost any dressing
that is applied, and this makes the irritation worse.
Treat internally as for eczema, and if possible mop out
the ears by the aid of a little piece of cotton wool on a
thin stick, having dipped the wool in warm water.
Then dust flowers of sulphur in the ears, alternately with
a spot or two of glycerine. A kind of epidemic has
of late broken out amongst mice upon which we have
been questioned in our journalistic capacity. It is what
we shall call

Loss OF SMELLERS.

Young mice have been born without them, and the
smellers of the adult mice have dropped off. Mr.
Spiers, who has had considerable experience in the
treatment of diseases, and the preparation of veterinary
medicines says: — " I have never had this complaint

86 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

amongst my mice, but I should say the best treatment
is to rub the place with a mixture of equal parts cocoa-
nut oil and white paraffin, holding the patient till the
solution is dry; or, better still, cocoa-nut oil and vase-
line." Overshown mice develop

ABSCESSES AND TUMOURS.

These are very hard to treat, as mice cannot be
usually kept quiet while an operation is performed,
although a fancier has been known to succeed even in
this. With the help of a friend he chloroformed the
mouse (a prize winner) and removed the growth. But
the operation is very risky. Mr. Spiers writes: — "A
friend of mine says he had a mouse with an abscess.
He fomented it with hot water, causing it to break.
Then he squeezed out the pus, the mouse keeping quiet
all the time. A growth can often be dispersed in its
earlier stages by painting the affected part with iodine,
but great care must be used." Much can be done in
the way of

PREVENTION OF DISEASE

By a timely and regular prescribing of blood cooling
medicine. A mild aperient, such as magnesia, is
excellent once a week, and often prevents mischief. A
mixture of four parts flowers of sulphur and one part
cream of tartar, too is a very cooling and blood purify-
ing aperient. Do not overdo it, and do not overcrowd.
Especially be careful to isolate when disease is observed,
and disinfect.

CHAPTER II.
THE PRINCIPAL VARIETIES.

In order to secure the most up-to-date experience,
apart from our own knowledge, of the several varieties,
their points, and the best way to breed them, we have
invited the views of two or three of our leading fanciers
and judges of mice. We shall again quote from Mr.
Hamlin. He says: — "There are twenty-seven recog-
nized varieties of mice, but I shall only deal with those
of which I have had practical experience, viz., self
colours. By that I mean those wholly of one colour.
First I will explain the different colours. They are
black, chocolate, fawn, white, cream, black-eyed silvers,
blues, and pink-eyed silvers. These constitute the self-
colours. To start with, I shall take

BLACKS.

These are undoubtedly very pretty mice, and a
really good specimen will generally do a bit of winning
for its owner, if shown in good trim. In blacks, the
great point is to keep them pure in colour, and free
from brindling or tanning on the sides, and also on
the throat and vent. The colour should be dense,
running right down to the feet and the end of the tail.
A lot of blacks are bred with pied feet and tails, but
these should not be used to breed from if it can possibly
be avoided. To anyone starting in blacks I advise
going to a breeder who makes a speciality of the variety.
He is sure to keep stock that has been black bred for
generations. Ask him for a hint or two as to the stock,
and how to proceed. You will not go far wrong."
Very often blacks are mated to blues — i.e., pure blues,
with good results. The progeny, if both are soundly

88 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

bred will be blacks and blues, and these should be in-
tensified in colour. If you mate a blue buck to a black
doe, save a pure coloured black buck and mate him to
a blue doe. By this means you will stamp in the
colours, and you will find, as is the case in Dutch
rabbits, it will enhance the colours of each. Do not
introduce grey blood, be it ever so dark. You will get
a nasty colour in that way, and troublesome white hairs.
In introducing blues amongst your blacks, it is best to
use dark dense blues, but pure in colour. We will next
allude to

CHOCOLATES.

" These should be of a rich dark shade, as nearly
as possible the colour of a piece of chocolate. They
are occasionally paired to blacks to improve the choco-
late colour, but the reverse should not be indulged in
if you wish to retain your blacks in purity. Therefore
do not keep the blacks from such litters, as those bred
from blacks and chocolates are sure to be of a rusty
tinge. It is really best, if you once get your chocolates
to a good deep pure colour, to pair chocolate to choco-
late, always taking care to select the richest coloured
ones to breed from, on both sides." So says Mr.
Hamlin.

FAWNS.

Some fanciers hold that these should be called
orange, not fawn, and there is a good deal of force in
the contention, for some of the deeper coloured fawns
are a distinct orange in tint, and the tone of colour is
present in all fawns in a greater or less degree. " If
they are a good deep colour," says Mr. Hamlin, " they
are really orange, and I don't think fawn is a proper
name for them." This, of course, is a matter of
opinion. A really good specimen of the fawn requires
a great deal of breeding. They should be of a very rich
colour — the deeper and brighter the better. If they are
deep and yet dull in colour their beauty is not seen like
it is on a bright coloured one. Fawns have a tendency
to put on fat, consequently get unshapely, which is a
bad fault. It very often happens, moreover, that the
fat ones are the best coloured, and therefore fatness
should not cause them to be wholly discarded by a

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. 89

judge, as colour is, after all the chief point. It is diffi-
cult to prevent some mice getting fat, do what you will.
Some will put on flesh on the most spare feeding.
When breeding fawns it is always best to keep the
richest coloured ones, and mate them together, always
endeavouring to keep them as shapely as possible.

BLUES.

These, when of a good medium shade, are really a
fascinating variety in point of colour. The standard
for blue mice requires that in colour they shall as nearly
as possible resemble that of a new slate. However, as
is the case with some of the other self-colours, blues
vary much in point of shade. For instance, some are
light, some medium, and some are dark in shade. But
when once you get them to a good medium shade they
will breed very true to colour. The best way to proceed
is to procure a pair that have been blue bred for several
generations. From these you will be the most likely
to breed blue mice fit for the show bench. "There
ought to be no difficulty in this," says Mr. Hamlin, and
he adds: — "Of course, should it happen that you get
some that are too dark, I advise crossing them with
black-eyed silvers. That is — pair the dark blue does to
the silver buck, and select the blues from the litters.
After that, you could pair blue to blue again, always
remembering to keep the most level coloured ones."

BLACK-EYED SILVERS.

These, when of a light shade, are very pretty. They
have probably originated from blues, — perhaps from
a cross between chocolate and blue. The reason for
this conjecture is that some of the black-eyed silvers, if
too dark, look like a bad coloured chocolate. This
difficulty can always be got over by selecting the lightest
from the litters and breeding from them. There are
also the

PINK-EYED SILVERS.

It is difficult to tell exactly how these originated.
They are sweetly pretty, and present day judges of mice
seem to prefer them to the black-eyed ones. This is

9o

PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE.

natural, as the pink eye, especially if it can be got to a
real ruby shade, adds materially to the beauty of the
mouse. There should be no difficulty in getting them
with pink eyes. If you have black-eyed ones, get a
pink-eyed buck and mate to a black-eyed doe. The
result from the first cross will probably be all black-
eyed ones. Pair these, brother to sister, and most
likely you will get pink-eyed silvers. Last, but not
least, of the self-colours, come the old and well-known

WHITES.

There is not a lot to breed for in these. The chief
things that are required are purity of colour and size
and shape. The coat should be short, a remark that
applies to all varieties, for the shorter the coat the
better, and they should have rich ruby red eyes. A
word upon this point. The richer the colour of the
eyes, and shorter and purer in colour the coat, the ten
times better chance of success. It is probable ^ou will
only get purity of body colour in the pink eyes. The
presence of black eyes in a white is indicative of the
presence of dark blood somewhere. What we like to
see in the whites, as in all other varieties is, in addition
to plenty of size and shape, a short, sharp, and yet
velvety coat, with a good gloss on it into the bargain.

MARKED VARIETIES.

Mr. F. Perrin, of Brighton, one of the most
popular judges of fancy mice, writes: — "The variety
which finds most favour is the ' Broken.' But what
a name ! It was the correct name when the mouse Fancy
was in its infancy, and was meant to signify that any
mouse which was not a self colour was a ' broken,' or
rather a ' Broken colour.' It is time the governing
bodies of the mouse fancy devised names suitable for
the various breeds which have made so much headway
in recent years. Several of the present names are not
at all suitable."

THE " BROKEN COLOUR."

This breed may have any number of distinct spots
or patches — the greater the number the better, and may

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. gi

be of any colour. To Mr. Perrin's mind, they should
as nearly as possible resemble a Dalmatian dog. In
former years the " Broken " coloured mouse was simply
Dutch-marked, with spots on the body, but that is not
the sort of mouse sought after to-day. Some well-
known winners of to-day are spoilt by having head and
saddle marking, although the body patches are well-
nigh perfect. The same remarks apply to the varie-
gated mice. These should be separate, and it should
be made perfectly clear that mice with cheek-markings
and saddles would have to go behind those with _patches,
even though the patches were not so numerous. If this
were done, breeders would set to work to produce an
imitation of the Dalmatian or an unevenly patched
mouse, which would be a distinct and taking exhibit.
The patches should be about the size of a large pea,
and be placed indiscriminately about the mouse. The
variety which seems to show the greatest contrast to the
unevenly spotted is

THE VARIEGATED,

Because the markings of this variety are just the reverse
of the spotted. In the spotted variety the patches must
be of exceptionally sound colour, i.e., no white hairs in
the coloured patches, but with the variegated, the more
the coloured hairs are intermixed with the white the
better. They must be brindled from the tip of the nose
to the tail, and not have any solid patches of colour
upon them. Preference should be given to mice without
the slightest trace of blaze, cheek-markings, or saddle.
There should be no solid patches of colour upon the
flanks or belly. The variety, however, is not very
extensively bred, although they are not quite so difficult
to breed as the spotted ones.

DUTCH-MARKED.

These are one of the most difficult varieties to breed
true to standard. A Dutch rabbit is the ideal which all
breeders try to attain, but a Dutch-marked mouse will
never be bred to look the same as a Dutch rabbit. The
shape of the blaze can never be so perfect on a mouse,
because its ears are so wide apart, and that does not lend

Q2 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

itself to the formation of the beautiful wedge-shaped
blaze found on a Dutch rabbit. The saddle and under-
cut are two very important markings, and there is grow-
ing evidence of vast improvement in these points. The
feet stops are another very difficult marking to fix, but
progress is being made, and attention must be directed
to the prevention of brindling, and soundness of ear
colour.

THE EVENLY-MARKED MOUSE

Is very closely related to the Dutch-marked, and Mr.
Perrin thinks a great many fanciers breed those two
varieties together owing to their similarity of head and
saddle markings. Even-marks can be bred, and they
will breed true to markings. " A few years ago," says
Mr. Perrin, " I knew a certain fancier who made these
his special study, and although he started with chance-
bred evens, after a few months careful breeding he
began to breed some very well balanced five-patched
evens. This goes to prove that the winners of this
variety are not always * flukes.' "

TRICOLOURS, OR SABLE AND WHITES.

A very great improvement has been made in this
variety this year, and the colours of the specimens —
black, chocolate and white, are very distinct. Any
mouse possessing three or more distinct colours ought
to take preference over the ordinary sable and white,
because the fawn generally shades off from a dark grey
patch, and when these are shown at their best, they are
very taking. The worst fault in sable and white mice is
that the colours change so often, but probably, as a
result of judicious mating with other breeds the colours
will become fixed. As soon as this is accomplished,
many more fanciers will take up the variety. A tri-
colour mouse, Mr. Perrin thinks, " should resemble a
tortoise and white cavy, and the patches should be
square and clean cut. No doubt some will say that
this is ' too previous,' but if we know what the ' ideal '
is, it will be much better, because we can mate and
arrange our stock with the hope of coming near to the
ideal. At present it does not matter how they are

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

93

marked, or what colours, therefore fanciers keep breed-
ing away in a haphazard fashion in the hope that some-
thing startling may turn up. We are encouraging this
style of breeding by not fixing standards."

TORTOISESHELLS AND TORTOISESHELL AND WHITES.

Are about as few and far between as are big diamonds
in the possession of an East London seamstress. It is
said that a real well-broken tortoiseshell has not yet
been exhibited; and only one or two tortoiseshell and
whites, so that the only thing to be said about this
variety is — there is a good field open to the mouse
breeder to obtain the rare in his fancy. We cannot
tell him how to do it.

SILVERS GREYS.

These are another puzzling variety to the mouse
breeder. We mean on the score of production. It is
well, however, to tell them that a real and genuine silver
grey is not a black mouse with white tipped hairs inter-
mixed. Silver grey never yet was of a black cast of
colour, but of a blue tone. The undercolour should be
blue black, not black, and the ticking and silvering, i.e.,
the dark and light tips intermixed, should leave a blue
tone of colour to catch the eye of the observer. They
will never be got the correct shade by merely crossing
whites with blacks. A silver grey rabbit, when it first
runs about is not a jet black, but if the fur is well
examined, it will be found to be blue black. Such will
have to be the case with a silver grey mouse, if bred to
perfection. It is of no use breeders of mice labouring
under the delusion that the ground colour of the silver
grey is black. The most likely way to breed a silver
grey mouse is, we think to persist in crossing a grey
agouti buck to a light coloured blue doe, especially if
the doe shows any inclination to silver hairs. We
should mate the densest coloured blue buck to a really
good black-eyed silver doe, and save any blue does from
the progeny that might show silvering. To these mate
the grey agouti buck. We do this to stamp in the blue.

94 PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE.

SILVER FAWNS.

These are got by mating self silvers to fawns and
vice versa, and crossing in and in. Don't go too far
in this way, but bring in a fresh fawn doe now and
again.

SILVER BROWNS.

We notice that this is one of the red hot pokers to
the theorist, and he leaves it severely alone. A silver
brown possesses several different shades of colour in
its coat. It should be of a chestnut tone of colour, as
it catches the eye, not a blue tone. These latter are
wastrels in the rabbit Fancy. Consequently, if you
blow up the fur, you will see black and silver hairs,
chestnut, and also a blue bottom. They should be
silvered and ticked as sharply as the greys, but of quite
a different tone of colour. There is no doubt that silver
brown rabbits have been got by the use of the silver fawn
buck and the Belgian doe, and perhaps vice versa.
This would point to the use of the silver fawn mouse,
and the golden agouti. Try it.

SABLES.

These are divided into two, at least, if not three
sections, i.e., medium and dark. But the difficulty
with sables, even if obtained, is that they so soon go
off. They are as bad as Himalayan rabbits or lizard
canaries; they are only mice of a day.

AGOUTIS.

There are golden agoutis and grey. The former
are, or should be, of a rich — very rich — golden colour
as a groundwork, and there should be a fairly plentiful
interspersion of black hairs. The greys should have
silvery grey substituted for the golden colour. The
ticking should be well carried on to the feet and the
cheeks, jowl, and throat if possible. There are breeders
of the former, but very few of the latter, and if you are
going in for this variety buy of the recognised breeder
and get his advice as to mating.

PET RABBITS, CAVIES, AND MICE. ^5

TANS.

Are divided into blacks and blues. The ideal is the
black and blue and tan terrier dog. They are probably
obtained by the crossing of blues and blacks with sables,
but we should not mind pairing a golden agouti buck in
a blue or black doe, and then reversing the order in the
young a time or two just for a trial. If you get foul
hairs you must mate and re-mate the clearest in the black
or blue to get rid of them. At present the tans shown
are very far from the standard. What is wanted is a
black or a blue, dense and trebly glossy, with tan mark-
ings along the edge of the belly, up the chest, on the
nostrils — not the nose, on the inside rims of the ears,
along the jowl end, all down the insides of the hind
feet, in a ring round each eye, on each toe of the fore
feet, well under the belly, and in the form of a triangle
at the neck, behind the ears. The denser the tan the
better.

There may be other colours in mice that we have
missed, but it is enough to feel that all or any of the
above-mentioned can be bred systematically and to
a state of perfection.

FINIS.

ESSEX TANS.

C. BURTON,

Breeder of high-class
Black & Blue Tans,

21, High Street, WALTHAMSTOW.

Winner at all the Leading Shows
under all the noted Judges. ^ ^

BREEDER OF ALL. MY WINNERS.

Rabbits! Rabbits! Rabbits!

DO YOU KEEP THEM?

SO, IT WILL PAY YOU TO TRY

STEVENS* RABENH.

/ am Winner of z,ooo Cups, Medals, and Prizes.

STEVENS' RABENA ! Just what you want !

What is Rabena?

stands the wants of both Rabbits and Cavies. If you want success, why Try
it Sample bag 8d., 7-lb. bag, 3/3, 14-lb. bag 5/9, carriage paid. All my
noted winners have been fed on this spice. It has no equal. Many testi-
monials from noted fanciers, can be seen on application.

HERBERT STEVENS,

SOLE MANUFACTURER,
RABENA WORKS & RABBITRIES, LEICESTER.

P.S. — A Grand Stock of Flemish Giants, 20-lbs. strain, also other breeds for
Exhibition or Stock Winners always on sale. State your requirement
enclosing stamp for reply.

Maker of all kinds of Hutches and Improved Exhibition Boxes.

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