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Alibaba si spurt Ais ~~ aahecis yi THOM DE LPO ree Pye Tha rnp wParervetavenqqren Dears ~— st re ea , — , , Pe haga ay Tothperh imtinge Oy cap ogtie 95 Gates ete mienyrile Anal YAP Mare Sartuéy Mey tgtonrt — ein ta . ayn Us AE eM Meer ig Ste MY ADs (the. a PMN awe ole a eal Ng NOE MP RAI AT fy Oa AVIA cB nde ds Pag RAS dee 4) ARO DAM Ven Leth, EO pe Merton tyne if NE 1a ty Dae ae AVEO prints DO yom APD Md aol ball tae) onl Te ew, Le ee Arlee ATEAE | it Ay Ae ieee an PMD a APN hte 20 Mor Thine be EM my dep My pho yrete Pika git Po ghey geraa th ites > geen eo teoy Yer IN rere Me ae ah Oe he Qe ee Yd RST Ee ee wt y he manner tN Ahm VP Geen fre TRANS hea LO tity Sgr: AOA Sm sc gone ane yo uate +P pe bgp . vay Dig edna iy PAD oi no Lain! bgehd oat er) es ae eT Vag pty 6 ‘ Sieh rye HPS oa Weel hese, el) Feit’, 0A MEO gan, is dhe ee We Metten” OMe PRIM Ly OV Mee A wrth wea POAT T GAT OentrerThT TBH tt fe tg as ‘ WO {IM sLNbve 4 oe NT gle AM ge ie AA gARY ru son Li) th eee ee ee et F Dig Mtl org SAD Mella het Aa Mle, BAN eRe ihe ag, nor a " - Sth anal kale tthe, een Angee deh erhedeatu Mh ddnddne nay oan a Atte tind Ap pate ta hth ee ot way They ap 8 erent ee ae GoN ” mae ™ Map Ve Re Ayorestim tgp oi) © Cae apie ne Lee ig Uy a wits “ame Owdry gia WI en tn hye Wh AER ears AB 9 pth» } rer ~ DA tie foray Poy Deep Tet pt wh ay cre 4 Mets MOM ET rem we Hr WARS Oe OHLONE IM IMD aye af ie j - Db zibhe ow . “AOD Det bgp Sie tent hn Pa ~ SW ELE eth ety fom, er eet as Neim a Py Megtiomtyan rebeapontnr ne ne teeth noe rn athe Poy ee a aD . ~~ BATON WS imettet shite hy etet A uhtiot MADE yet Mel hog Cr Aye gn » " Wh de wring =O yten tag riny oon . eRe TR eo ge wel alt eite Pn ees ae sei tteo Wg tveytinn acinar’. Av.in, SPNVE YE omit ge te ren BUM hy Lahey iy, -—. SOM Hla Om mengie ste te sear ie nary hep fey athe Pete AY Day bres MGM get ger LY hat ae ite Cetera ng Gere VO gee . wy n rele “ rhe tow 2 owl! : iwoy , ‘a heroity! oy ; 4 ¥ . Fr ’ ’ rae 4 y ¥ ¥ ® . is give I ' '. . es 7 : . ° . cow ' ° _ “9 ; Wea . Sih cudiee ot puese LESTE see inatiard mien agate Bet 3 a ' * *.* - - * - + hae HPL Wily: “ My OY a ape 2M GAY ete a ae el eee 0 a Rte ae vee ea y : : oa ad uth lode oan dak OT ae ne ee ee Ngee ee eet ME pn ADO ede LY HhOninee Oh ade APSO OPE CA electri Wenaaeacte _ paedi-wp.sstekoe shemteed aenean me» ee marten, eae it ~ - ™ : ~ oer oe owner rw a BOLS SPP* We Fae te? . o baw ans nl Cy oaks -" Dee ‘> & ° . . ‘ ~ ane tent - 7 wen 4 “ ued MP ade a rt Tm LT et ee ee PF ers Sak. 5.” nee been yh Phe ae cig hageretet 4 = an . ps Ds pg. > apenas Poa ee cre Wen 4 gg eran hy et ben et rortre > . - a - A ia ; . To ee eee Pde Ah NO PHAM A any, iirnoand : : : iterttin.. 4 ORO OE 08 OOe OR al whl} Ah te Arete hein auphhenews + Ons) Ay etivemeys CF RNh WA OR ger Adaehypames ah -Y nol nemutaeerpe — Bere ere an niat arenas We oe bs. hoor Bry: ial distittndesihen amen tes } ethied then Peri ie ree —w o~ OE RES Pe tee Pe neye » J Saal a hplitele havinttapbem lor nn. Le A oe Dees ee ee ee ns ed WES UE otal Pine hay we ew si AM i are Nicatinihsshesiaoetnas er FOP rT ERT Var Helen pa be en alg NP vega {a AO PB ge ~ © aed Photo: A. R. Goodwin, Kidderminster. NARCIS (One of the Rev, G. H. Engleheart’s seedlings.) S CASTILE. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING MecCONCISE GUIDE TO THE CULTURE OF ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT BULBOUS, TUBEROUS, AND ALLIED PLANTS BY WALTER PoeA\W RIGHT Rorticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council AND HORACE J. WRIGHT Member of the Fruit Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society ; Honorary Sceretary of the National Sneet Pea Society, ete, A. O38 5-2 = © > «£ = a WITH MANY PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS 2 ) [9 2 . a e _ o ‘ Seeotit anp COMPANY, LimitTep LONDON, PARIS, NEW: YORK § MELBOURNE MCMIII j ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Edited by WALTER P. WRIGHT. Cassell’s Dictionary of Practical Gardening. The Gardener. Works by WALTER P. WRIGHT. Pictorial Practical Gardening. Pictorial Practical Fruit Growing. Pictorial Greenhouse Management. Pictorial Practical Vegetable Growing. Pictorial Practical Rose Growing. “ CASSE Lb: AND COMPANY, LIMITED, London; Paris, ee ot « New York: & Melbourne. ERHEP AOE. THE term “bulb” in connection with this book is given a wide interpretation. | Pechnically. although a Hyacinth is a bulb, a Begonia is not. We have, however, swept away, for practical purposes, dis- tinctions which the great flower growing public knows nothing about, and included all the favourite flowers which a_ broad view associates with bulbs. Conversely, we have left out some minor plants which really are bulbs, as not deserving space in a small handbook. Such plants will be found described in “Cassell’s Dictionary of Practical Gardening.” The present work is uniform with the other volumes of the Pictorial Practical series, and aims at giving all the salient points in concise form, with explanatory illustrations. WALTER P. Wricutr Horace J. Wricar. September, 1903. CON THNTe CHAFTER T,—Butrs In BEpDs AND BorvDERS. II1.—Butzs 1n Pots . II.—BuLss IN GLASSES . IV.— Buss in VASES AND BowLs V.—Butrs 1n WIN- pow Boxes Vi-—_Bubes In: (Tse W ooDLAND VII.—Bu ss 1n Grass VIIT.—Acuimenes, Ac- ONITES, ANOM- ATHECA . TX. Agios’. X,—ALSTROMERIAS XI.—AMARYLLISES . XIT.—ANEMONES . XIII.—Arvum Linies XIV.—BaBIANAS X V.—BEGOoNIAS XVI.— BELLADONNA LALTES: +, XVII,—CaLapIu Ms X VIIT.—CatocuortT!. XI X,—-CANNAS X X,— CHIONODOXAS X XI.—CoLcHICUM<. X XI1.—Crinums XXITT,- XXIV.—CycLaMENs . XX V,— DAFFODILS XXVI, - DAHLIAS . (‘ROCUSES Kes eeietee PAGE CHAPTER PAGE XXVII,—EryTHRONIUMS 101 1226 XX VII[I.—Evcuarises . 101—102 26 XXIX,—Freestas. . 103—104 XXX,—Fritintarias 104—108 ef ees tf) XXXI.—Guapviorr . 106—113 XXXII.— Guoximaas .. 114-016 30-3! XX XIII.—HE werocat- 3 LISES 117 52 =n XXXIV.—HeEpaticas 117 XXXV.—Hyacintus . 118—121 36— 38}. © OX V0 ee 39-41 XXXVIT.—Ixtas . : 127 XXX VIIF.—Lacwenatras 127-—129 XX XTX,—Levcosums 129 42 XL.—Liiums . . 130—133 49-44 XLI.— Montrretias 183—134 44-— 45 XLIT.—Mvscaris . 134—13d 15 45 XLIITI.—Nerines. . 135—136 48— 49 XLIV.—ORNITHOG A- 50 LuUMS ._. 186—137 50-3 XLV.—RANUNCU- sy ees LUSES S137=- 136 XLVI.—Scinias . 188—139 57 XLVII.—Snowprors . 139—140 58— 59 XLVIII.—Sparaxis. 140 60— 61 XLIX,.—Ticeripias. . 140—141 61— 63 L.—TRitTELetras '. 141 64 LI,—Trirontas 141 65 LIIt.—Troprroittms. 142 65— 66 LIII.—Twureroses 143 66— 67 LIV.—Tvc irs . 148—146 68 69— 85 | ADDENDA . 147—148 86—100 | INDEX . 149—152 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter 1.—Buibs in Beds and Borders. @4T is in this particuiar direction that we may see the most marked growth in the popularity of bulbs during the past few years, but there has been a distinct deviaticn from the very formal lines of a decade ago, when one kind only was permissible in each bed. Now we see that in the vast majority of cases two kinds are employed, and in many instances there are : ¥4 three. One is bound to appreciate the change Hee 7) vi in this direction, because the creation of a — greater variety must add to the interest of the garden as well from the visitor’s as the owner’s point of view. Hundreds of thousands, and probably millions, of Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Daffodils, and other bulbs are utilised in the gardens of this country every season, and it is safe to say that there is not another class of plants which, grown in such immense numbers, brings so few disappointments to its cultivators. This is accounted for by the great ease with which they may be grown, and by the endeavours made by growers to fulfil ail their requirements in regard to soil, manure, and moisture. That there are failures every year it were useless to deny, but the majority of these may be said to be due rather to misfortune than to any fault on the part of the cultivator. A bed of Tulips, or of Daftodils, may and does fail, and the gardener is blamed for some supposed error in management, whereas the true cause can almost invariably be traced to some inherent fault in the bulbs over which it is absolutely certain the British grower could not possibly have control, as the trouble is traceable to the fields of Holland, where the bulbs were brought forward to supposed flowering size before they were offered to buyers at home. Tt should be thoroughly understood by everyone who has bulbs in his garden that the flower is actually formed for him by the propaga- 8 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. -Y =— i = ~o® ‘ 2 ~_ a = Se SAFER F NTO BE RES OE EE EAT HEISE - ‘ fy ‘ ‘ Serge : . ~e e : os iat tk de gs c ~-8 fy < le c >| ee ea oe Wer WG £S BSE £ x s* peer ier 4 . ora - 5 * (fr lL f$ see ex == f ex } y AM da Ney es a i ° Cit. a s Px og . d ’ et Sa v4 Pee af eee = a fC Of e : , Wn Ge, Ole, ae Prine : as Po i ee / g Abe nt ga : ae ° rr See if % vi ti hae ete in esta % ME. BIE Aa noe ; / i AA Ae SRE Wan UY a oe =e BA av\* WMA, Sc ake \ Ae N x N aS ‘ NAG ESR TERE S QKS NEES x WS ee RS NAY “Tye Ns WW \ SX QQ AA NY Ir X AN oN \ x ; \ \ NWS YS \t Ww = “hg VE iG : YX N WA’v:: SSS ——s ¢ ies mar Ss ge tes a Rae — ae i . a eerret Pea pies ——- Coscccis z —— = os < er ee ‘Lp cath SLL IVA fea De tas ‘i ie 4 ; 2 “rg S\N eG ‘ A , ul th At Wee pa : a. i RAUL AP AL is " ee LEA fee aoe vo ! lid) Ee ee a Ne AZ ABA es | oer a ee? | ‘ - a ae VW ty ; < f SA 744 g ee ee a . <3 ZA yi - t sare - ‘1 Vp i, . fi N if) f Rupe te hee =e = me / ; s% 2 NZ bo: ie et eG h DES Z (thee ete ~ a — = Se SS. = ‘ a s As SESS ‘A ie “ait SE ee ive bi ; f° ~~ “- a . *s = tae -° o - > : we” . . erat ile mde = . “- aS it = Soe ate aS ie SB tee ete ee Pt es a oe al ca o PICTORIAL PRACTICE, —PLAIN FIG. 1—THE PROPER DEPTH A, Anemone. B, Winter Aconite, C. German Iris, D, Crocus. E, Snowdrop. F, Ranunculus, , English and Spanish Irises. DEPTHS OF PLANTING BULBS. - *~5 > = x es TS ee ye Yr =~ aw ° ae ff - 2 - a Be TE IHG ree Lg Sr ed 1 nee ‘¢ 19h tar fo aioe aa ee en Le = LOE LLIEG Bg a St ae re ee Ode Lig f* 444 7 eae aaa 4 iin sg NS LOS orf Ee ee oo 6 ND ee area ty ee CaS a i OLE So: . as To a “ea? 2 = ag iz Fa a “t reg Yt A re © ey 7 € Pee : Be ae fe : a c + te a Fe: ao Lae ~ a N s aee f ae s bat Ss uf AOS en = J or gee r Tete fee, a 4 - caer, “ ae ‘ “4 > , a ee . 6 Le “7 | Dees Se ge aaa Pie 7 * : Se Pilko ye SR = ay s « gee ‘ ee caer pe rt ee Ets _ Rr : cee a ah ee are fe Oe 3 Sora ie ar : Dns pata eg BF ’ 4,64 ’ ’ e ~4 ATI Ken Win ‘Sa alat WY x XS R Wath \ gh NY NAal c : ASA AAR Se ke qinq “p : [los oul Se So Fu —e —. “~ -? —, 222-2 < SS _ % on s - +> va 18 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. material to the light for the development of the flower. The absence of light prevents the excitement that goes to the swelling of the spike, and the bulb has nothing else and nothing better to do than to emit abundance of sound roots with which to imbibe food for the benefit of the plant at a later date. The disadvantage of having to give water in the very early stages lies in the danger of the soil becoming sour, simply because there are no roots actively working in it. Of course, it is better to apply water than to allow the compost to remain perfectly dry for any length of time, but it is desirable to avoid it, 1f possible, by the means indicated. Many growers of bulbs have to neglect the plunging entirely, simply because they have no available place. Dwellers in towns suffer most in this direction, but they need not despair of being ~ able to produce fine Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or other bulbous flowers, provided they have a dark cellar or cupboard whose tem- perature is not too warm and dry to accommodate the pots during the stage at which they would be plunged under more favourable conditions. When this means of starting the bulbs has to be resorted to, the utmost care must be taken in the watering that will have to be done, giving only sufficient to keep the soil just. moist from the surface down to the drainage. The pots ought to be examined as frequently as possible, so as to guard against absolute dryness; as when this state is reached it is most difficult to get the soil moist again without having recourse to plunging in a bucket, which is undesirable. The length of time during which it is essential that the pots shall be plunged varies considerably, as it is affected by the time of potting, by the temperature of the plunging bed, and the earliness of the sort. The usual period is six weeks, but it is preferable to lay down no hard and fast rule, as one can easily decide the correct moment for removal by frequent examinations made after the pots have been buried for between three and four weeks, by which time distinct advance will be evidenced. In the dark the initial move- ment in the bulbs will be towards the production of roots, and when upon examination it is found that the top has grown to the size of a fine Filbert Nut, it is almost invariably safe to assume that roots are sufficiently numerous to warrant the removal of the pots from the plunging material into the light, when the energies of the plant will be about equally divided between the growth above and below the surface. (See Fig. 33, p. 17.) Material for Plunging. —The best material for this purpose is undoubtedly cocoanut fibre refuse, as it is light, warm, impervious to light, and will turn a fair shower of rain. Failing this, ashes may be employ ed, but unfortunately some coals produce ‘ashes containing a property poisonous to the tender top growth, and disaster follows ; for this reason they should be avoided if anything else can be secured at moderate cost. Dry leaf mould is successfully used by some cultivators, but with this again there is an element of danger, as it may contain insect or other pests which will find in the sweet, tender POTTING NARCISSI. ‘ \ i} i iy cA = — a Wf, . LA 3 ‘ Nape ‘tye, taal, AE - C Ne ¢ ze ats . PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. a — inganary ter i HAL iH if Hr Hai i y t | jeu iM Wee AY Ait gr y! Ss —_— = Se; a Te ad x > 2 = hag 32 ae = — a ee —— Fas Le SS oe = S; eS — Fer ey ae Inne =, jee — > eed art ee RETIN a iHE f Nh eal so) 7'T a ele D, in flower. FIG. 4.—POTTING PAPER WHITE NARCISSI. A, section of 6-inch pot: a, drainage ; b, rough soil; c, finer soil; d, bulbs ; e, space for water. B, plunging bed: jf, ash base ; g, ashes or cocoanut fibre refuse ; h, the same 6 inches deep over pots. C, removed from plunging bed: 4, roots; j, top growth. 20 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. tops food to their liking, and this, of course, will mean more or less damage to the plants. In respect of the best place for the plunging bed, there is often not much choice, but beside a wall of any kind is as good as any, as it is there usually comparatively easy to afford protection whenever 1t may be deemed necessary. When an open position has to be utilised, it is wise to have permanent provision made for throwing off the heaviest rains; old mats, pieces of tarpaulin, or unused lights can be requisitioned, and will render invaluable service. | Indoor plunging beds are frequently made up, and with proper care answer well, but there is always greater liability to drip when beneath stages, as well as the probability of the warmth encouraging earlier growth than is desirable for the good of the plants. However, they must be used at times, and in these cases they should be as carefully covered as those out of doors. Broadly speaking, all bulbs should be plunged, but in Freesias we havea notable exception, these often causing much trouble when treated in the orthodox manner. Removal from the Dark.—This is really one of the crucial periods in the cultural life of the plant, for it is easy at this stage to. spoil our chances of success by a small error. It is not hkely that anyone would so treat the plants as to preclude the development of any spike, but they might prejudice them sufficiently to represent the difference between an exhibition specimen and one that was drawn and poor in colour both in flower and leaf. When the time is reached for removal, the grower should bear in mind the fact that until now the progress has been wholly in darkness, and this will impress upon him the importance of guarding against a sudden shock, such as is entailed by bringing the pots directly from total darkness into brilliant light. Immediately on removal the pots should be tested to ascertain 1f water is required, giving or withholding it according to the result of a careful test; then they should be stood on the stage in a greenhouse, or upon a table if grown indoors, and covered with two thicknesses of brown paper or several sheets of newspaper. Allow this to remain for two or three days, and then reduce it slightly so as to admit an appreciable amount of light ; in a few more days take away more paper, until it can be seen that the top growth is assuming a deep green colour, when all protection can be dispensed with, and the plants have the fullest benefit that unobstructed light can confer upon them. Feeding.— Whether special food is employed in the mixing of the compost or not, it is desirable, if the finest spikes are wanted, to feed when the spike is half developed with some suitable manure. Application may be made either in dry form or as a liquid, and, all things considered, the latter is preferable. The utmost care must be taken not to overdo the applications, either in frequency or in strength, as such an error leads to harm rather than good. One of the most valuable aids to advancement will be found in soot, as, apart from encouraging growth, it serves an excellent purpose in enriching the colours of both the leaves and the flowers, and thus A GOOD HYACINTH. . 5.—HYACINTH MORENO, A GOOD BLUSH FOR POTS. FIG | 22 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. materially enhancing the beauty of the plants. Nitrate of soda is frequently resorted to, but unless it is given with the greatest care it is very dangerous, as it is liable to damage the tender roots crowded in a small space. If it is used at all, it should not be stronger than ¢ oz. to 1 gallon of water, but 4 oz. of super- phosphate per gallon is better. Any food made from natural manures may be employed, provided it is given in weak doses, and that each application alternates with one of pure water. Above all things, do not over feed, as this is infinitely worse than not feeding at all. Forcing Bulbs.—'T'o everyone who has a greenhouse, bulbous plants are of such enormous value in the spring months that it would be a matter for surprise rather than otherwise if strenuous endeavours were not made to bring them into flower before their normal time. Fortunately for cultivators, bulbs are very tractable in this respect, and, provided we use reasonable precautions, flowers will be available over several months, and this at a period when they will render splendid service. By pushing on the one hand, and retarding on the other, we can have a supply of bulbous plants for the conservatory or the greenhouse from mid-November until the following May, or a period of six months. Such a protracted time would, of course, necessitate the utilisation of large numbers of bulbs, and the exercise of a considerable amount of skill in their management, but, given these things, with proper facilities for grow- ing, the difficulties will be easily surmounted. As the details of soil preparation and potting are precisely the same as for ordinary culture, it were a waste of valuable space to deal with them now, as would-be forcers have merely to imbibe the instructions already given to equip them on points of detail. The thing that the grower must realise first of all is that all varieties of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or what not are not equally amenable to forcing treatment, and in respect of the last named particularly neglect of attention to this matter will lead to the greatest disappointment. The bulbs that are forced in the greatest numbers, thereby proving themselves to be the best fitted for the purpose, are White Roman Hyacinths, Van Thol Tulips, Double Roman, Paper White, and a few other Narcissi (a simple rule of guidance in choosing the latter will be given in due course), some Liliums, and several others of much assistance, but not of sufficient importance to warrant special mention at this juncture. All the so-called Dutch Hyacinths and Tulips may be persuaded to throw up their flowers a little quicker by handling them carefully, but they cannot be regarded as suitable for forcing, as any attempt at rushing things will result in disaster. No matter whether one is dealing with Roman Hyacinths or anything else, a good foundation of roots must be secured before any attempt is made to force, and until this is done it is well for the grower to proceed along the lines suggested in the preceding paragraphs. Encourage plenty of healthy roots and a nice green ‘SdITOAL JO LOd GOOD V—-'9 ‘*SId nS IN AP Or: TUL 24 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. top, and anything reasonable in the way of artificial heat will be promptly and satisfactorily responded to. To place the newly potted Romans directly into heat does not necessarily imply failure, but simply that one cannot be so sure of success. As the plants advance for flowering, they must have regular supplies of water, with liquid manure according to their requirements, making certain that they have ample food at all times, or the spikes, which compared with those of the Dutch Hyacinths are never very large, will be almost oe small to be of material value, unless the bulbs were especially ne. Where abundance of Hyacinths and Narcissi are wanted for cutting purposes, pots should not be employed, as far more produce can be secured from the same amount of space and attention by _ putting bulbs into shallow boxes, such, for example, as those which are commonly used for the reception of cuttings when large numbers have to be struck. It is not absolutely necessary to make any pro- vision for drainage, though it is advantageous to have four or five holes burnt in the bottom of the box, over which some rough drainage can be placed, so as to make everything as favourable for the bulbs as possible. These may be put quite closely together in the boxes, but ought not to touch each other if it can be avoided. They can be placed in the dark or not, according to convenience, as their life is so short that the fact of the roots being some- what limited in quantity does not seriously affect the quality of the spikes. The motto with Romans in boxes is a short life and a merry one. Tulips and Narcissi may be treated in a precisely similar manner, and will prove equally as satisfactory. The former, however, whether in pots or boxes, will require consider- ably more water than the other, if the very finest results are sought for. : Time of Potting.—The period at which the bulbs are potted varies with the time that they are wanted to flower, and it is always desirable to give as much grace as possible, as it is far easier to retard the plants a little than it is to hurry them unduly at the last moment. From August-potted bulbs of Romans there should be no difficulty in having good flowers in November, and successional pottings or boxings, as the case may be, will provide plenty of spikes until well into the new year. Van Thol Tulips will advance at about the same rate, but Narcissi must be allowed a little longer, as when pushed too hard they are prone to go blind after the buds are formed. Dutch Hyacinths are procurable in September, and may be potted at once, or kept to a more convenient time, up to December, when all should be got in without further delay. The ideal time is probably the middle of October, but each grower must exercise his own judgment, and pot so as to have the plants in bloom when they are likely to be of the greatest use to him. Some people have taken to deferring the potting until well on in January, but this is really too late, though it is not actually imperative, as was considered years ago. that every bulb should be potted BULBS AFTER FLOWERING. 95 before it was showing the green tip of the growth in the apex. None except the finest bulbs, procured from sources of the highest repute. must- be employed for potting, more particularly when forcing is to be done. | | Bulbs After Flowering.—The manner in which bulbs that have produced splendid flowers are treated is little short of dis- graceful, for they are cast aside as though they never were and never could be of any value. It is certainly false economy to retain bulbs for pot culture from year to year, as new ones that will produce far better flowers can be purchased very cheaply, but, at the same time, those which have done good service may be made to do something more, if they are correctly handled after flowering. For planting in borders of mixed plants they are invaluable, while for woodlands they are practically as useful as newly bought stock. They never develop such handsome trusses after the first season of blooming, but the spikes they do produce are valuable for cutting, which is more than can be said for the early ones, as these are too stiff to have any value for this purpose. Tulips and Narcissi are even more serviceable than Hyacinths for planting out. The proper way to treat them may be described as briefly as possible, for the benefit of those who have been in the habit of throwing away useful material. As soon as the spike has passed its best stage, let it be removed, as its retention means that it is faking a certain amount of sustenance for which it will give no return. It is to the leaves that we must look to secure some recompense for our labours now, as they contain much stored material that will be of use to us if we can get it transferred to the bulb in the soil. This is induced by keeping the leaves green for a reasonable period, this being ensured by regular, though lessened, supplies of water. If these are given, the foliage gradually ilies down, sending its store of nutriment into the bulbs in the process ; first the upper extremities of the leaf turn yellow, this slowly spreading to the base, when the work of the leaves may be said to be concluded, and they should be removed. No better way of managing the plants can be suggested than this, and it has the merit of being extremely simple. | There is one other way in which the bulbs may be treated after they have done flowering, and it has, what will be a distinct recom- mendation in the eyes of many people, the merit of being even easier than the one already suggested. This is to plant them out directly they have finished blooming, removing the spike, but not the leaves, in the manner directed in the preceding paragraphs. For this purpose a piece of ground in good heart should be chosen, and for preference it should be shaded from the hottest sun, as strong sunshine will rush the ripening of the leaves along too fast for them to confer the fullest benefit upon the bulbs. If the soil be naturally very dry, it will be necessary to give one or two thorough soak- ings of clear water, it not being desirable to use any liquid manure at this stage. Im the event of the only available space being 26 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWLING. excessively poor, it will be decidedly advantagous to dig in some thoroughly rotted manure, but it must be put in the second spit. Staking the Plants.—When the culture has been thoroughly good at all stages, it will be found imperative to give the grand spikes of Hyacinths, the glowing flowers of Tulips, or the big Narcissi some assistance, or they will certainly collapse by their own great weight. As this completely spoils their appearance, it must be prevented by timely staking. It is unfortunate with ‘ se vm A / FIG. 7—A WIRE SUPPORT FOR HYACINTHS A Wire Support for Hyacinths.—Get about 18 inches of wire, or as much as is required that will work easily, double it up so that both sides are equal, put a stick through the top to form a loop, then twist it down to about 4 inches from the ends, bending these out wide enough to go over the bulb, The loop at the top is to tie the blooms to, The first sketch shows the support twisted, the other plain. Hyacinths that the bulbs are so large as to render it impossible to get the stake quite close to the spike, and an ungainly stick by no means adds to the good effect. To obviate any trouble in this respect, the best way is to have very small sticks sharply pointed, and force the end into the bulb itself, where it will stand firmly, and, lying closely to the spike, will not be unsightly. The objection may be raised that such a method of procedure is sure to damage the bulb. And so it will in a minute degree, but it will certainly not affect the present year’s spike. For planting in the border— and this is the ultimate home of most of the pot-grown bulbs—the small hole is little if any detriment, as the bulbs appear to flower just as well as when they have not been thus barbarously treated. BULBS IN GLASSES, 27 Chapter Hi.—Bulbs in Glasses. OnE of the most interesting phases of bulb culture is that of growing a certain number of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and a few Crocuses in water, glasses suitable for the purpose being readily procurable. It is distinctly an aspect of gardening that appeals to the ladies, as it is perfectly clean, and the results are usually very gratifying to the cultivator. Of all systems it is the one which demands the finest bulbs, and by this is not meant the largest, as is sometimes thought, but those that are perfectly. sound in every respect, or they will fail to bring their spikes to perfection. Even under the most favourable conditions, it is seldom that the flowers are as good as those produced by bulbs in soil, as these can get so much more nourishment; but they are nevertheless most pleasing, and, besides, can be grown by those to whom pot culture is an impossibility. Selections of bulbs for all purposes are given, but for water culture it is always wise to leave the choice of varieties to the vendor, as he can then pick them from those having bulbs best suited to the purpose in view, which is, of course, made known to him at the time of ordering. Glasses of several elegant patterns are available, and the choice rests with the purchaser, but it is certain that the bulbs thrive as well in what is styled the “old” shape as in any. These are upright, and are admirably suited for placing upon a window ledge when the spikes are well advanced. The glasses with broader bases are more useful for standing upon tables or mantelpieces, where there is an ever present liability of knocking them over. Whatever shape is decided upon, either those that are of dark colours or opaque should be given the preference over clear glass, as the roots will keep healthy much longer than when they are exposed to the full light through clean glass. Soft water is far better for bulbs in giasses than that obtained from the pipes, though this has generally to be used, for the simple reason that the former is unprocurable in many places. In either case, one or two lumps of charcoal ought to be placed in each receptacle, as this will be of material assistance in keeping the water sweet, though it will not, as some people suppose, provide the plants with any food. The food is found in the water, and is, of course, in greater abundance in soft than in hard water. The base of the bulb need not come in actual contact with the water, but must: be so close thereto as to only allow a thin piece of note-paper to be placed between. There will be gradual loss, of course, and 28 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. from time to time this must be made good by the addition of fresh supplies, and if necessary by the substitution for the original liquid of sweet, fresh water ; it is not desirable to have recourse to the latter expedient unless the water becomes objectionable, as the roots may be damaged in the process to a serious extent. If it be imperative, have fresh water and charcoal immediately at hand, withdraw the roots, turn out the stagnant water, thoroughly rinse the receptacle, and put in the fresh supplies as quickly and as care- fully as possible, never during the operation allowing draughts to strike upon the roots. In reading this sounds quite a long and laborious task, but in reality it will prove to be the work of a very few moments. When the bulbs are in position the glasses must be put in a dark cupboard, or other convenient place, in the same way and for precisely the same purpose as bulbs in pots. Here they may remain until such time as they have made ample root growth, no cognisance whatever being taken of the leaf growth in this case. The support that is essential in pot culture becomes doubly so with plants in glasses, as they have absolutely no anchorage at all. Home-made contrivances may be employed if desired, but they are not usually as satisfactory as the properly formed wire supports that are sold by bulb merchants expressly for the purpose. These are of very’ moderate price, and with proper care will last an indefinite period ; they are neat in appearance, very strong, and can be adjusted in asecond or two. When bulbs in glasses have done flowering it is best to throw them away, as they are so much exhausted by bringing large spikes to perfection under such unnatural conditions that they are not worth a moment’s retention. These cultural remarks may be accepted as applying to all kinds of bulbs that are grown in water, and are not intended to refer to Hyacinths alone, though these are named as examples, they being far away the most popular, and, it may be added, the most satisfactory for the purpose. HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. ~ aes dos aN ~ \ \N \ y 2g 2 ; Oe SM EE \\ ag ; 4 —ab| her] 8 Fg ee | « aaa — oo ZG Z — en me . OY — A ’ \ fod tie = S \ Hf Hr — woe . Oeceeet. AS - —— bea ee Z = < bw oe nent BAER ar Athi \ he EO el A a —<——- : < z= SS p> ™ SA) eee : eS ——— = Bh = : aa = : — ae - eS — =< ° ig ————————— fi Sa , z _—— = EE ———— Se de Se 3 ie —S =O rae SS = 3 tt mS Ne = Ss ae a = Sma y : Bb / A Z —_——. —— = - — rs = —— — f fe by: 4 E. ‘=== | ~— Ze : Sa FIG. 8—A ROMAN HYACINTH IN A BOVRIL BOTTLE. 29 30 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter IV.—Bulbs in Vases and Bowls. Tus very delightful manner of bulb growing has come into special prominence during comparatively recent years, in fact since the now well-known mixture of fibre and shell was brought before the public for this express purpose. Long prior to this, of course, bulbs were grown in bowls of gravel and water, the Chinese Joss Lily (a form of Narcissus Tazetta) being highly recommended. ‘There were, how- ever, so many failures, or at best only partial successes, that growers were prompt to turn to other and better methods the instant these were placed before them. With this fibre and shell compound practically all bulbs will flourish, though some naturally do better than others, Tulips and the Incomparabilis forms of Narcissi being particularly desirable owing to their graceful habit of growth. One can imagine no more delightful form of bulb growing than this, especially for ladies, as it ensures excellent flowers in elegant receptacles, that are eminently suitable for standing upon the dining and drawing room tables, and thus allowing the lady to show her friends how successful she has been in the culture of bulbs. Another thing in connection with it that will appeal to the fair sex is its absolute cleanliness, it not being necessary to more than very slightly soil the fingers in carrying out the whole of the work therewith. Any small jars may be requisitioned for the purpose, those in which cream is sold being as good as any, though they do not look so well as those that are made expressly for bulbs, as these have designs upon them which add to the charming effect that is produced. Anyone feeling reluctant to spend money before knowing exactly what they can do in the direction indicated, should try their ’prentice hands with some cream jugs, and if they exercise care they will certainly be more than satisfied with the results they will achieve. The great advantage of using jugs, or jars, or bowls with the fibre is that no drainage is required, and no provision is made for it, so that there can be no objection to their use on the score that they will make tablecloths dirty, even if they do not spoil them, as too frequently occurs when ordinary pots are used. If there isa secret in the successful production of bulbs in these undrained receptacles, it lies, beyond a doubt, in having the material in the proper state of moisture to start with, and in keeping it thus throughout the life history of the plant. This, it may at once be said, is not an easy thing to do, and, unfortunately, no directions that will assist the cultivator can be given, as the conditions of no two houses are precisely alike ; it therefore resolves itself wholly into HYACINTHS IN BOWLS. 3] a matter of individual judgment. The greatest danger lies in the. bulbs being forgotten for some days, and then having a lot of water applied, under the erroneous impression that it is thus possible to make up for lost time. The rule should be to look carefully over the plants each day, giving water the instant it is necessary, but never before. _A pretty Hyacinth bowl, B, can be made by cutting holes the size of the bulbs in a round piece of wood, as shown in the illus- tration at A. This should be placed about 1 inch deep in the bowl to rest the bulbs on. When the “ potting” is done, have the compost pleasantly moist, that is to say, so that it will adhere slightly to the fingers when it is handled. Make it moderately firm, but do not attempt to leave it as hard as a road, and have the nose of the bulb just protruding through the surface when the operation is completed. Beyond this, YY Se eae AeA TES my facons) 4 COAL “7 Sie / ag 3 FIG. 9—A BOWL OF HYACINTHS. treat the bulbs exactly as for pots, and in due course fine flowers will come as a reward for the labour expended. In addition to the Incomparabilis varieties, the Polyanthus Narcissi grow splendidly, as also do some of the large trumpets. After flowering, the bulbs should be thrown away, and a start made in the succeeding year with a fresh stock. 32 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter Y.—Bulbs in Window Boxes. THERE are few people who cannot have a window box if they want one. Not that the lot of the owner of window boxes is invariably a happy one, especially if he be so unfortunate as to dwell in a town where everyone is not as honest as the day, for the plants and boxes are apt to develop wings and hie them away to other and more desolate spheres. It is poor consolation indeed to a man who has suffered thus to be told that he is certainly brightening somebody’s home, though there may be some philosophers about who regard it in this way. | What window gardeners would do for their spring display without the indispensable Dutch bulb one shudders to think, for it will be quite safe to assert that out of every ten boxes filled to look beautiful in the early months of the year, eight, and perhaps nine, either owe their charms to bulbs entirely or are largely filled with them. The reasons for this popularity are not far to seek. The plants are extremely easy to grow, they do not démand a great amount of attention after once being put into their places until the spring, they can be procured for a very small outlay of cash, and they produce a singularly charming effect, notwithstanding what the hypercritical say about their stiffness. One occasionally hears it asserted that the use of Dutch bulbs does not permit of any change being made in the style of dressing from one year to another, but this 1s an error, as many have proved over and over again. It really resolves itself into a question of whether the cultivator possesses a — spark of originality or not, for if he does he will soon ring some decided changes, even though the scope be limited. For window box culture bulbous plants are unique in utility, inasmuch as while we can, if necessary, find substitutes for all other plants, such a course is not possible with the bulbs which stand alone for spring effects. ‘To ensure the very best results it is imperative that there be two boxes for each window, or during the winter months, when the bulbs are making root progress alone, the sills must be quite bare—an occurrence that may be easily and satisfactorily overcome by adopting the duplicate box system, as one may then have small Conifers for winter adornment while the bulbs are being brought slowly onward for employment in the early spring. Whichever method commends itself to the cultivator, he will. BOXES FOR. BULBS. ee Te, et NE “sqing [VMs YGIM pojuvyd pur qios yA porTy oq Avut sosepuoddy osoxy, ‘SOyLIS puv soxog JO UOTVOOS ‘CT ‘Spud O11} JV PUR LOOM JOG SozVIS OYJ YIM ; "SOyVIS TeJUSMIVULIO “F MOPUIM OT} JO QUOT OY} OF poxy SoaTey oI ‘O “JIVYE UL JNO Soxog oseoyo TTwUIs Ww SOLON GLU OL. ‘Sd7Nd JO XO@ MOGNIM V OL NOIMIAGV ALLGYa V—OL ‘p1d SM VLS tb ens XS t oro Kat cen Fd 1 Ss wy y Te Gteantl a S Mee STG BS eH » Ce ae ae en a ar na BR rN RE o4 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. adopt the same initial principles to bring SUCCESS. The boxes are, of course, made of the proper size to fit the window sills, and they may be faced with cork or tiles entirely at the discretion of the owner, though if the latter are selected it behoves the purchaser to proceed warily or he will find that he has chosen a tile that immensely detracts from the floricultural effect. Each box must have a certain ~ number of holes from which the water will pass freely, and as an additional precaution it is desirable that small struts be fixed on the base so as to elevate the erection about 1 inch above the stone sill. The soil for bulbs in boxes may advantageously be similar to that used in pot culture, but if this 1s not convenient excellent results will accrue from the use of ordinary garden mould, provided special © care 1s exercised in the matter of drainage and in regard to the feed- ing that will be necessary at a later date. An abundance of material to ensure drainage should be utilised, and it must be most carefully protected from the incursions of the tine soil by the use of plenty of the rougher portions of the compost or some coarse moss. There should be no hesitation in using a lot of material at the bottom of the receptacle, as this is almost invariably made quite 3 inches deeper than it need be as far as the bulbs are concerned, so that one can easily afford space for the purpose indicated. The reduction of the bulk of soil is not only convenient but desirable, because it reduces the probability of souring to the lowest point. Later on, when the bulbs have made plenty. of roots and are swelling up the flower spikes, 1t is a very simple matter indeed to make up for any deficiency in the soil by special feeding with liauid or concentrated foods in the manner suggested for bulb growing in pots. At that stage the plants are gross feeders, and the food given is instantly appropriated by the roots, wliereas had it been put in at the start much of the best ingredients would have been wasted. In the selection of the bulbs to be employed the owner must, of ' course, decide for himself, as there can be no governing factor other than personal taste, but it is always desirable for window gardeners to remember that they are cultivating for the general public as well as for themselves to a much greater degree than those who follow up any other phase of the art. They should, therefore, plant ina manner that they have reason to believe will meet with universal acceptance, and not in a style that will possibly irritate the nerves cf every passer-by. It is thus that the gardener may do such a lot of good, for it is more than probable that ‘the delightful style of plant- ing which he has adopted will lead some fresh recruit into the ranks of window gardeners ; and thus our streets and roads will continue to grow in beauty until ail sills have their occupants, and our town and village streets will be infinitely improved. All the hardy bulbs are available for window box planting, but there are some whose value is very much greater than that of others. Three kinds rise conspicuously above all others in general utility, and these, it is almost needless to state, are Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips, with Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops to furnish the SUITABLE BULBS FOR BOXES. do front. Unless there is some special reason for doing so, it is not desirable to plant in the perfectly straight lines that one usually - observes, though the cultivator has an excuse for this in that he is following the lines of the structure. At the same time slight irregularity is almost certain to produce a finer effect. Tall Tulips of imposing appearance, Keizer’s Kroon for example, might have the position closest. to the window, with white Hyacinths in front, and, if the box has no greater holding capacity than three rows, golden yellow Crocuses intermingled with Scilla Sibirica as an -edging. ‘This is one of the simplest arrangements that can be found, but at the same time it is one of the most effective. If it is feasible, as it will be where there are two boxes for each window, the receptacle, after planting, should be placed in some dark position precisely as would be done in the case of bulbs in pots or in glasses and for exactly the same purpose. Do not apply any water at all before it becomes imperative to do so, and then give just sufficient to thoroughly moisten the compost right through to the drainage. The surface may be covered with cocoanut fibre refuse, as well to improve the general appearance as to reduce the necessity for watering by conserving the moisture in the soil. When the move- ment in and above the mould is active, the top growth should be gradually inured to the full light in the same manner and with the same care as that of bulbs which are growing in pots. Never try to force the plants to come into flower, as though one can easily hasten them a little, it is bad policy, because they will feel the cold so much when put out that the probabilities are they will succumb. 36 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter Vi.—Bulbs in the Woodland. THE very sound of the heading of the present chapter will appal the town gardener, whose area is limited to so many square feet of cat- - infested land. He will probably pass it over with a shrug of the shoulders and a muttered expression of its uselessness, and, mayhap, a pang of envy at his more fortunate brethren who are blessed with woodlands in which to plant bulbs and wander at will. Assuredly woodland walks and dells add immensely to the interest of any estate, particularly when beneficent Nature has done the planting for us in her own inimitable way. If we gardeners could copy Nature with perfect accuracy, our gardens, especially in the wilder portions such as the woodland, would be infinitely more beautiful than they are ; but, failing in this, we must do our best with Nature as the teacher. , The observant travelling horticulturist soon realises that Nature’s motto is summed up in one short word, ‘“ boldness.” Look at the Bluebells (see p. 37) and the Lilies of tle Valley in the wood, the | Heather on the hillside, the Willow Herb on the waste ground, and see whether they do not all create an air of boldness, even though it may be, and often is, softened down by its surroundings until it appears as the sweetest simplicity. These are merely a few instances out of the many that could be cited, but they suffice for the _ present purpose, which is to impress upon woodland. planters the absolute necessity for strong conceptions, or an effect may be produced that will be nothing more than a poor burlesque upon © Nature in one of her most delightful guises. True, one must always — adopt the tailor’s law and cut according to the cloth, but it is irrefutable that in woodland planting the finest effects are pro- duced when we can think in thousands and plant in acres. It is no easy matter to plant woodland walks and glades success- fully, as so much depends upon the soil and the trees, which will inevitably bring failure to some bulbs, while others would flourish and increase enormously. Here, again, it is the soundest of sound ~ advice to say, ‘‘Copy Nature.” When it is decided to plant, spend as much time as can be afforded in the neighbouring woods studying the vegetation there, and taking particular note of the plants that are known to spring from a bulbous root. Never hurry over this, as it will certainly prove to be time well spent, for it is no small loss to put in, as one may easily do at this work, 10,000 or 20,000 bulbs, only to find them fail owing to some local inadaptability, which could readily have been avoided by the exercise of care and forethought in Ss ~~ i vee yo O” BLUEBELLS IN A WOOD. aqoOoM V NI STT2daN Td IL Id a aaa ae ae a ee rd 38 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. the direction indicated. It is not merely the cost of the bulbs themselves that is thrown away; we have also to consider the time that has been expended in planting, and the disappointment that must accrue from the loss of the display for one or move years. 4 Apart from the thorough appreciation of the facts set forth, the | actual process of planting will be the same as in that for grass | gardening, only that the work will not be quite so carefully done, | as the loss of a dozen bulbs out of several thousands will not cause any serious regret, as would be the case where only a hundred or so _ had been put in. Of course, this must not be read as inferring that simply throwing the bulbs into their places without care or thought | of the results should be tolerated, for this is by no means the case. | It is intended to convey the idea that the elaboration of detail may | be safely avoided, but does not warrant the planter in going beyond | all the bounds of reason. Broadly speaking, all the kinds of bulbs that can be grown in the | grass are available for woodland planting, but actually such is not | the case, for it behoves the majority of us at any rate to take some | cognisance of cost, and this alone will put many very beautiful | bulbous plants quite out of court, as the expense of purchasing the | requisite number would be utterly prohibitive. Apart altogether | from the monetary aspect of the question, we have also to keep in | view the fact that we are now about to produce a bold effect, for | which purpose it is probable that a cheap Daffodil or other bulb will | be equally as serviceable as one that cost ten times the money; we | are not proposing to study the points of an individual flower, but to | create a spectacle that will charm by its breadth and boldness. For | these reasons it will be permissible to recommend the purchase of | the cheaper Daffodils, Crocuses, Tulips, Scillas, and any others for | which there may be a desire, remembering always that the pot grown | bulbs that are not required for grass gardening can be profitably | utilised in the woodland. . | | To those whose best semblance of the woodland lies in a hedge. | row consolation may be found in the knowledge that the banks may | be planted with bulbs with the most charming results, as can be | seen in many a garden of very modest extent and in scores of creater pretensions. One of the prettiest May pictures in Barrs’ | nurseries at Long Ditton is a bank upon the side of which several | hundreds of bulbs of Muscari comosum, Heavenly Blue, were planted | a few years ago. Here and there amongst the Muscaris Daffodils | nod their heads, and, though comparatively limited in numbers, | they unquestionably play a conspicuous part in the general effect. Such a picture is within the reach of hundreds of garden owners, | whose grass clad banks could be cheaply and quickly made twenty- | fold more attractive than they new are, BULBS IN GRASS. 39 ~Chapiecr VilL—Bulbs in Grass. Tue charms of bulbous flowers are never better exemplified than when the blooms are seen rising from the soft green turf and swaying in the slightest breeze that blows. Their popularisation for this purpose is largely due to the admirable manner in which they have been employed in the botanic gardens in various parts of the country, notably at Kew, where the annual displays rank with the most beautiful horticultural features of the year ; to the splendid effects that the superintendents of our public parks and gardens have made, one of the finest London pictures being in Battersea Park ; and to the strenuous support that the system has received from such leading hghts in the world of gardening as Miss Willmott, | V.M.H., and Mr. Wm. Robinson. ‘These enthusiastic amateurs have put Daffodils in the turf of their estates in all directions, and the results are beautiful beyond description in the early months of the rear. It is, unfortunately, not possible for every one of us to plant bulbs in the numbers that we see in the places adverted to in the pre- ceding paragraph, fur the simple reason that our gardens are not sufficiently large to allow of it. We may, however, all do a little in the right direction by utilising the bulbs which have been flowered in pots, and which are too frequently thrown away, for positions m the grass where the ragged appearance created by the dying leaves of the bulbs and the coarse condition of grass consequent upon neglect of cutting is not deemed too serious an eyesore. Herein hes the one ‘disadvantage that accrues to the cultivation of bulbs in grass, for it is imperative that the foliage be left upon the plants until, having turned quite yellow, it has obviously fulfilled its functions and may be removed. ‘This process of perfect maturation, which is so essential to success, involves delay in mowing, hence tlie undesirability of planting bulbs immediately in sight of windows, where the untidiness would undoubtedly be intolerable. Passing a short distance from the parterre, which is always kept trim and tidy, so as to be in harmony with the external appearance of the house, there will probably come a bend in the grass with a background of shruos and trees, and it is from just such spots as these that the greatest value can be derived in grass gardening, for the visitor treading the smooth turf will turn quite unexpectedly upon a picture of golden Daffodils or gorgeous Tulips, whose flowers, with their soft background, will astonish and delight him beyond measure. Here the long grass does not irritate by its unkempt 4.0 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. appearance, but is gladly tolerated because it aids substantially in producing one of the most charming corners of the garden in spring. It has already been said that the bulbs which have done a season of excellent service in the greenhouse are of the utmost value for planting in grass, and, unfortunately, some persons appear to think that because old bulbs are being utilised it becomes little more than a waste of valuable time to give care and thought to good and effective work. This is not, however, the way to set about any gardening operation, or it is certain that failure in a greater or lesser degree will be the lot of the gardener. Success demands that each detail shall have proper attention, and grass gardening affords no exception to the rule. The commonest error of all is that which results in the bulbs being planted in lines, and thus tends to bring the formality of the flower garden beyond its sphere. Straight lines or regular curves should be avoided, and the planting must be so done as to give the best possible idea of natural growth. This is by no means an easy thing to do, more especially where the amount of space avail- able for the purpose is at all limited. The most satisfactory results have been found to follow upon the studied neglect of any suspicion of a plan, and this is best ensured by standing some little distance away from the place that is to be planted and, taking a good handful of bulbs, throwing vigorously so as to make them scatter as much as possible. Or, as an excellent alternative, stand in the centre of the area and throw the handful of bulbs high above the head, giving the wrist a rotatory motion at the moment of ejection. In both cases the subsequent movements will be the same, and will consist of putting each bulb into the soil at the spot where it fell. Some objection may be raised to this practice on the score that there is a liability of many of the bulbs being lost through its adoption, but, as a matter of fact, the danger in this direction is slight, and if one or two do go astray it will not be a serious matter, as the varieties which are usually requisitioned for the purpose are not generally the expensive ones, but rather those which can be bought very cheaply. Again, the shortness of the grass in autumn when the planting is done favours the ready finding of every bulb by an operator who exercises a reasonable amount of care in his work. In the distribution of the bulbs in the manner indicated, one has to take into previous consideration the space at command, and whether it is desired to have masses of one kind or variety, or a mixture of as many as can be got together. There can scarcely be two opinions as to which system will produce the more striking effects, and that 1s separate masses. But this means that a fairly extensive amount of room must be accorded, as two or three bulbs of a variety are apt to look somewhat forlorn in their splendid isolation. Let the determining factor, therefore, be size and nothing else, having masses or mixtures just as the space will allow. If the latter is the only feasible plan, then mix Tulips, Crocuses, Snake’s PLANTING IN GRASS. | 41 Head Lilies and Daffodils in one basket, whence they may be drawn for distribution in handfuls that are as varied as they can be made without attempting anything in the way of selection. The actual planting demands skill, care, and the use of proper toois. It is first of all necessary to cut out the piece of turf beneath the waiting bulb, and then to substitute for the soil some sound loam if it is thought that the natural mould is at all poor. Next the bulb or bulbs will be placed in position precisely as one would do were the work being carried out in the flower beds and borders. After the covering of soil, new or old as the case may be, is put on, it only remains to replace the piece of turf that was removed before the work may be said to be completed. The requisites are, then, a sharp turf cutter, a barrowload of prepared soil, and a cartload of common sense, which will ensure the results being in all respects satisfactory to everyone. It is somewhat tedious work certainly, but it will thoroughly repay for all the time that is spent upon it. For those who would have a turf cutter and a soil excavator in the same tool, there is nothing to equal the admirable implement that has been invented by Barrs for this express purpose, as it is easy to handle and does its work in a perfect manner. In the foregoing chapters general hints on bulb culture in various forms have been given. In the succeeding chapters the principal bulbous and allied plants will be dealt with in alphabetical order, selections of varieties and special remarks on cnlture being given where required. 42 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter WHll.— Acshimenes, Aconifes, Anomatheca. Achimenes.—These are in some degree plants of a_ past decade, for in the days that have gone there were few warm oreenhouses whence they were absent. The provision of good fibrous loam in well-drained pots or pans, careful attention in respect of watering and staking, with a season of absolute rest after flowering, and a warm, moist atmosphere during the time of active growth, will be found to practically ensure success. Achimenes make excellent basket plants. Species and hybrids are numerous, and afford a fine diversity of colour. A collection of six or twelve named varieties from a reliable source usually gives every satisfaction. (See p. 43.) Aconites. — Who does not know and love the eehenhtul winter Aconite, known to the wise as Eranthis hyemalis? It is one of the first flowers of the spring, and its cheerful yellow blooms in their ruff of bright green leaves are ever welcome. Tubers should be planted as-early in autumn as possible. It is useful for borders, grass, or for semi-shaded positions in the woods. The species Cilicica is much later flowering, and has deeper hued blooms. Anomatheca cruenta.— By this name many of us have grown what the botanist now describes as Lapeyrousia cruenta. It is a charming but rather tender plant, which must be accorded frame treatment except in warm climates. A light, sandy loam is the most suitable soil, and whether in or out of ‘doors perfect drainage is essential. ‘The colour of the species named is crimson, grandiflora is scarlet, and juncea is pink. Propagation is by seeds or offsets. a a EE Chapter 1X.—Alliums. THERE are a large number of species in this genus, many being of considerable beauty for borders ; while some are of value for culture in pots. For garden purposes, however, the selection may be limited with comparative ease to about a dozen kinds. The objection brought against these plants by the majority of people is that they have a very 3 = ‘du porty qoxyseq. ST “‘qgoxsvq oy} ul Surygnd woz Apvor queyrd ‘¢q *p«vajno spvoy ‘ur gnd syuvyd Ssunod puv ssout [JIM pouty qosseq ‘gq “AWLMAGOT UL SUyavys Loy Apvat oporoqny “vy SLIMSVA ONIONVH WOT SANAWIHOV—Sr “OId “SCUOM MAT NI SENIH NIVId—'SOTLOVUd TVINOLOTd <= KETS. WY & ! ' SAY fi) ny zi aM bw 2 i — Re o = ACHI ee ee 44 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. strong smell of Onions, and for this reason cannot be grown. But in some, notably in A. Neapolitanum, this is not apparent unless the flower is handled, and few persons are likely to do that when they know the consequences. The bulbs are all strongly impregnated with the Onion odour, but it can be readily removed from the hands upon the completion of planting with the aid of plenty of water and soap. Economically the genus is of immense value, as it com- prises the Onion, Shallot, and Garlie. Selection of Alliums. acuminatum, deep rose. narcissiflorum, rose. ceruleum, sky blue. *Neapolitanum, white. *Hermettii grandiflorum, Ostrowskianum, rose. white. roseum, rose. Karataviense, white. spherocephalum, purple. Macnabianum, white. triquetrum, white. Moly, yellow, handsome. All the species that are included in the foregoing brief list are perfectly hardy in our gardens, and the same may be said of the few others that receive occasional notice for the sake of their distinctness in the border of mixed plants. It should, however, be remembered that at least two are extremely useful for forcing in pots, and these are indicated by an asterisk. Chapter X.—Alstromerias. “An!” someone may say, “It is all very well to recommend Alstréomerias, but they will not grow in my garden.” Well, let us ask, “Ts that the fault of the garden, the grower, or the Alstromerias ?” The Chilian Herb Lilies are certainly not a success on heavy, cold soils, or in water-logged gardens, but in a fairly warm position and well drained soil they can be induced to thrive amazingly without any other trouble than the mere planting, a good dose of water in dry summers, (liquid manure if it can be spared), and a little dry litter spread over the roots in the winter. Surely this is not too much to ask for one of the choicest of border plants. The finest clump we have seen was in the master’s tiny garden behind a Surrey village school. The quaint little sausage-shaped tubers, so quaintly strung together, need to be planted from 6 inches to 9 inches deep, in the autumn. If the staple soil is not suitable, it must be made so by the addition of leaf mould and sand, for it is well worth while ee eee eee ee GOOD ALSTROMERIAS. 45 to take the trouble. One may go so far as to excavate a bed on border to the depth of 2 feet, putting 3 or 4 inches of crocks and broken bricks in the bottom, overlaying this with turf or rough soil, and filling up the rest of the space with a light, rich compost of loam, leaf soil, and old hot bed manure, with some coarse sand. But it is not often necessary to go this length, as Alstromerias do quite well in a properly prepared flower border. They are likely to suffer more from damp in winter than from frost. Selection of Alstromerias. aurantiaca, orange, spotted red, aurea, golden yellow. Chilensis, yellow, crimson and purple. Errembaultii, rose and white, spotted crimson and yellow. Pelegrina, white and pale purple, shaded yellow and spotted purple. Peruviana, purple and yel- low; of this there are several varieties. psittacina, crimson, tipped ereen and spotted purple. violacea, violet. We do not recommend Alstrémerias for pot culture, except in the ease of Pelegrina and its variety alba, which require greenhouse protection. Chapter Xi.—Amarovllises. For the purposes of this chat Amaryllises will only be regarded as consisting of those superbly gorgeous bulbous plants that have been brought into existence by the art of the florist, and are known, as a class, by the titles of Amaryllis and Hippeastrum. Bulbs of named varieties are somewhat expensive, but it 1s best to start with a few of these if the grower intends to be the raiser of meritorious seedlings. Fine results are to be obtained from the produce of purchased seeds, but about three years will elapse ere seedlings reach a flowering size. Given the necessary patience and ability, it is not difficult to work up a choice collection in the course of a few years, provided rigid ae is practised as each flowering season comes round. (See p. 47.) - Sow the seeds, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe, in well-drained pots or pans, in a light mixture of loam, leaf mould, and sand. In a temperature of from 60° to 70° germination is rapid, and it will not be long before the seedlings need more room. When they have made three or four tiny leaves, put them singly into 3-inch pots, in a similar compost, but of rougher texture. After they 4.6 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. become established in these pots a temperature of from 50° to 602 will suffice. In their earher stages of growth Amaryllis seedlings do not require the winter rest that is so essential a part of the culture of old bulbs. During the winter, however, less warmth and moisture are needed. Further potting must follow as the demands of the plants dictate. Now turn to bulbs of a flowering size and age. Early in the new year they should be shaken out of the exhausted soil, and potted in a compost of 2 parts loam, 1 part decayed cow manure, and a good sprinkling of sand. Where there are facilities for so doing, it is a capital plan to stack the turves of loam, with layers of fresh cow manure between, six months before the soil is needed ; this advice apphes with equal force to many other subjects that like rich feeding. Crock the pots well, and pot the bulbs firmly. Do not fall into the frequent error of overpotting. Bulbs we may expect to flower for the first time will generally find accommodation in 5-inch pots, and those a size larger may be placed in pots with a diameter of Ginches. The largest bulbs should be reserved for 8-inch pots, and it will be in very rare cases that a 9-inch pot will be required. This, of course, has reference only to single bulbs ; it is quite open to anyone to put several bulbs in a pot of a larger size, but this form of culture has little to commend it. At the conclusion of potting, each bulb should stand with its neck, and the whole of its upper surface, above the soil. Plunge the pots to the rim in spent tan or cocoanut. fibre refuse where there is a slight bottom heat, but the temperature of the house or pit should be an intermediate one, the object being to secure good root action before the spikes appear. No water must be given until spikes or leaves have made some slight progress, hence it is necessary that the soil be moderately moist at potting time. The hurry to give water at a time when there are neither roots nor leaves to use it has proved ~a stumbling-block in many cases. The large, handsome, broadly trumpet shaped flowers will expand about March or April, but it is easy to delay the flowering, by cooler conditions, if such be deemed desirable. Plenty of fresh air, but no draughts, should be an accompaniment of the season of flowers, as the plants will then suffer no harm if placed in the conservatory for a week or so. After flowering there must be a return to the old quarters, and the provision of a higher temperature with additional moisture ; frequent syringings are advisable to secure free growth, and to keep down insect pests. As soon as leaf growth is complete reduce the water supply, and cease to syringe. Continue the reduction gradually until the leaves are yellow, when watering must cease entirely for the season, and abundance of air and full sunshine n.ust be permitted to play upon the plants to ripen and solidify the bulbs. Remove the stock from the plunge bed, and winter it in a temperature of from 45° to 50°. It is only justice to state that the principal raisers of Amaryllises in this country are Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, and = 47 ‘HIS MOU SASITIAUVMV DNISIVU—'eL ‘DIT ‘SQUOM MU NI SUNIH NUWId—'HOLLOVUd TVinoLord Sie YMOAS [[NJ Ut pure pojijod ‘q Hee ‘Suryqgod toy Apros ‘9 *A[OOTJ SUIMOAS SSUITPOIS Oy “ET “OUIMOS T0JB SSVIS Jo o1vnbs B JIM potoAod puv ‘pop ‘pourecp urd poos ‘wv “‘SHONHUH AA ean | AMARYLLISES FROM SEED. 48 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. R. P. Ker and Sons, of Aigburth, Liverpool. They have both beaten our Continental neighbours on many occasions. Selection of Amaryllises. ” Acidale, light scarlet, Autocrat, scarlet, striped white. Beethoven, orange, veined white. Chancellor, red, striped white. Duke of Albany, deep scarlet. : George Nicholson, blood red, feathered white. Her Majesty, white, shaded Juno, scarlet and white. Meteor, white, striped crimson, Olympia, crimson scarlet, shaded orange. Prince of Orange, orange, shaded white. Queen Victoria, white, striped crimson, Robur, rich carmine. Star of India, carmine, white stripes, scarlet, Chapter XHI.— Anemones. THERE are few hardy tuberous-rooted plants grown in gardens that are more popular than the brilliantly beautitul Anemones, whose flowers are with us from the earliest days of spring until the frosts of winter come to rob us of their charms. Commensurate with the length of the flowering season are the range of colouration, the varied forms and sizes of blooms, and the great differences in the stature and habit of the several kinds. They range from the lowly A. ranunculoides to the 3 feet high A. Japonica, or, if we wish, to the stately species A. Fanninii, which requires greenhouse culture. Not only are Anemones of the utmost value for garden decoration, but they are also excellent for cutting purposes. The blooms do not 1 last as long as those of many other plants, it is true, but if secured ~ before full expansion their life is of sufficiently long duration to | bring a great amount of pleasure. The time of gathering has an effect not only upon the longevity of the flower, but also on its suitability for vases, as with age the stems, naturally somewhat weak for the burden they have to carry, lose rigidity, and fail to hold up the flower so that its full beauty can be appreciated. As far as garden purposes are concerned, species of Anemones are not particularly numerous, but the varieties are apparently innumerable ; fortunately for those who abhor labels in the herbaceous border and garden the mania for naming every little variation does not appear to have invaded the Anemone family to quite the same ———————— | GOOD ANEMONES. : 49 degree that it has many other genera, and we can have, if we wish, © at least a hundred different varieties under no more than two or three names. Except in a few instances no attempt is here made to include varietal names, but where it appeared to enhance the utility of the selection, the case of A. Japonica to wit, it has been done. A. Hepatica and its varieties have been for years grown as Hepaticas, and, despite the change made by the botanists, by this appellation _ they are still known, grown, and loved in the vast majority of _ gardens; they will, therefore, be treated of under Hepatica. Selection of Anemones. Aldeburgh, resembling A. fulgens, but larger and rounder, colours varied. Alpina, white. Apennina, b‘ue ; rose and white varieties. blanda, blue or white; Scythinica and Taurica are fine varieties. coronaria, almost all colours; there are differ- ent strains of this species, of which the St. Brigid and the Alderborough St: Brigid are the best. fulgens, glowing scarlet; the double forms, as well as the varieties mul- tipetala and Greca, are worth growing. Hortensis, colours various ; the variety named stel- lata flore pleno is in- teresting and beautiful. Japonica, red; there are several named varieties of exceptional merit, including alba, hybrida, Lady Ardilaun, Lord Ardilaun, Whirlwind, Coupe d’ Argent, and Beauté Parfaite. narcissiflora, white. nemorosa, white; several varieties, of | which Allenii, cerulea, flore pleno, purpurea, Robin- soniana, rosea, and the quaint bracteata are the best. polyanthes, white. Pulsatilla (the Pasque Flower), blue. ranunculoides, yellow ; very dwarf. rivularis, white. sylvestris, white ; the dou- ble form is charming. As everyone knows, we get scores of thousands of Anemone flowers from the south of France each season ; the varieties principally sent are Chapeau du Cardinal and Rose de Nice, both of which are well _ worth growing at home expressly for cutting purposes. | For depth of planting Crown Anemones, see Fig. 1, pp. 8 and 9. These flowers are easily raised from seed sown in spring. 50 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter Xiil.—Arum Lilies. PopuLARLY known by many quite permissible names, such as Lily of the Nile and Calla or Richardia Aethiopica, Richardia Africana is a universal favourite. Its superb white flowers are regarded as indispensable in many forms of floral decorations. It is hardier than people appear to imagine, succeeding out of doors in all except the coldest districts if planted in water. It is, however, as a greenhouse plant that the Arum Lily shines. Provide a sound loam, give pure water and liquid manure generously when the plants are approaching the flowering stage, plant them out in well manured ground in summer, watering freely in hot, dry weather, and no difficulty should be experienced in getting an abundance of blooms over a period varying with the conveniences for hastening or retarding the plants. The variety Little Gem is not usually regarded as quite so free flowering as the type, but it 1s very beautiful, and no effort should be spared to induce it to succeed. The yellows, Elliottiana and Pentlandi, are also popular. Propagation may be readily effected by division either before or after planting, giving preference to the latter. The pot plants which are planted out in summer should be lifted in early autumn. The true Arums are much more curious than beautiful ; they grow well in any good soil, and prefer an open, sunny position, where some protection can be afforded in winter in cold ae Italicum, Dracunculus, and Palestinum are three of ' the best. Chapter XIV.—Babianas. THE old saying “ Good things are usually done up in small parcels ” is eminently applicable to the beautiful little Babianas, for these fairy-like flowers are frequently passed over for others that have little else except size to recommend them. Seldom exceeding 9 inches in height, even under the most favourable conditions, Babianas must be regarded as jewels requiring a careful setting. Nature has herself been kind to these gems among Cape bulbs, and has provided them with plaited, hairy, deep green leaves, against which the bright hued flowers show up well. In the northern parts of the kingdom Babianas are usually wasted if planted out of doors, but in the “sunny south” the garden may be a SOME GOOD-BABIANAS. 51 made the brighter by their presence during the months of June and July. Success only comes to those who work for it, and the work in this particular instance means the preparation of a bed of light soil, well drained, and raised 6 inches above the surrounding level. Sandy loam, with plenty of leaf soil, and -seme old decomposed stable manure will suit admirably, but in many gardens the addition of leaf soil and sand is all that will be necessary. Choose a sunny position ; plant the bulbs—corms to be strictly correct—3 inches deep, and protect them with a covering of Bracken or litter until March. Where climatic influences preclude outdoor culture recourse must be had to pots. Put five bulbs in each 4-inch pot, plunge the pots in cocoanut fibre refuse in a cold frame, and when growth commences put the plants on a shelf in the greenhouse. If there is one point that needs to be emphasised more than another in dealing with the pot eulture of Babianas, it is the advice to give no water until the leaves appear. Selection of Babianas. stricta, white and blue. ringens, scarlet. Of this there are Mixed Babianas are so several pretty varie- cheap that where it ties, notably atro- is not essential that cyanea, dark blue; colours be kept separ- rubro-cyanea, blue ~ ate these will give and crimson; and equal satisfaction. sulphurea, pale yel- low. Chapter XV.—Beqonias. HorticuLtTugE hath her triumphs as great as any that adorn the banners of other arts and sciences. Her progress is quiet, but none the less sure. Weare led to make this reflection by the present subject. The history of the Tuberous Begonia is a fascinating one. Started on its way by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, the race was taken in hand by that famous old florist the late Mr. John Laing, who brought it into popularity, and showed to the world what wonderful capacity a flower has for improvement in the hands of a patient individual who has a strong and scientifically founded belief in its possibilities. Other firms and individuals have entered enthusiastically into the work of improvement. One has but to visit the Temple Show a couple of years in succession to find that such names as Cannell, Ware, Blackmore and Langdon, Davis, Jones, and many others are all associated in horticultural circles with Begonias of the highest quality. Double Begonias have a clever way of imitating other flowers closely, yet without losing their identity; they personate Roses, Peonies, and Hollyhocks in a wonderful manner, but latterly they have 52 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. copied the fashion of our lady friends and gone in strongly for frills and laces; in other words, we have the heavily crested Begonia. Further, mated with some of the wiuter-flowering species the Tuberous Begonia has been the means of providing us with a race of plants that brought brightness and beauty into the winter of our discontent. Messrs. Veitch and Sons and M. Lemoine bear off the honours for this new race. The advice given for raising Gloxinias from seed (p. 114) applies with equal force here, but after the seedling stage is passed the Begonias require an intermediate rather than a stove temperature, and in due course they will find a happy home in the greenhouse, en route for the conservatory, or reach the flower garden wd a cold frame. Begonias are liable to damp off while still in the seed pan ; the remedy is air and not too much moisture, coupled with the transference of the tiny plantlets to other pans at the earliest moment possible. Delay of a few hours only may mean all the difference between success and failure, for the dreaded “ damp” will clear off a pan of seedlings in a night. February, or early March, is a good time to start old tubers into growth, and there is no better plan than just covering them with leaf soil or cocoanut fibre refuse in a warm greenhouse or on a hotbed under a frame. With the production of roots and the commencement of stem growth potting must proceed apace. Select the tubers for pot culture, and provide them with a substantial compost of loam, leaf soil, dried cow manure, and sand ; Begonias love good living. From now right on to the conservatory or the exhibition tent should be a steady march of progress. As the weather grows warmer air should be more freely given, and if there is a deep, unheated pit at disposal, it is the right place for the plants during the early summer. Thinning and tying out the growths are details upon which time is well spent, and liquid feeding is an item that must on no account be overlooked. Liquid cow manure, the colour of pale ale, is the best and safest food for Begonias, but ae water given occasionally adds colour and vigour to leaf and ranch. ‘ For summer bedding the started tubers give the best results for a minimum of troubleif planted in a warm pit, in a bed of moderately ~ rich soil. Sturdy plants are now the aim rather than large ones, and this method enables the grower to inure his stock to outdoor conditions in the easiest and best manner possible, so as to be ready for planting out in early June. Winter flowering varieties are chiefly the children of a species named Socotrana. Those having a Tuberous Begonia as one parent are propagated annually from cuttings of young growth produced by plants that have been rested and then started in brisk heat. Such cuttings are put singly into small pots filled with sandy soil and placed ina close propagating frame. What may be called “cool” stove treatment is well suited to their needs until about midsummer, but thence on to September less fire heat and more air will give the 53 S —_—, "SLOOP JO WNO PogdoSUT SHUTING “OT *poqod cungnes popood Sey *poultog taquy *q ‘uot2osuat yo gurod *q f quot Rat 9 { RIUOSOG SHOLEqnT, JO surqqno *O V MOTO ATOSIOASURIA JRO ‘) TSISUOMLOJIOM BIOSEG. ‘WY ‘SONILLOAO AT SVINODAL ONILVOVdOUd— tL “OIA “‘SQYOM MAW NI SUNIH NIVId—WoOILOVad TVIUOLOTd “soduioo Apurs Ca) * a ol pean Mae Ss Toho" oN! Ny Mh, y Yay, Ke “4G el a Ate GONIAS FROM CUTTING BH 54, PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. SS SR SX Y FIG, 15.—BEGONIA MABEL KEEVIL. | (See page 56.) | A LOVELY BEGONTA. | FIG. 16.—BEGONIA MRS. JOSEPH CHAMBERLAIN. (See page 56.) 56 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. better results. Good loam, with some sand and a little dried cow manure, is an excellent mixture to pot this section in, but it is necessary to add a word of caution against the use of large pots; those of 6 inches diameter are big enough for the largest plant. That other group of hybrids having Gloire de Lorraine as its type requires warmth all the year round. The rootstock of these latter is not a tuber, but rather a compact cluster of thickened buds that remain dormant for a short period. Very little water must be given them at this time, but to dry them off as in the case of a ‘Tuberous Begonia ora Gloxinia would be to kill them ; neither ought the temperature in which they rest to be lower than that in which they grew. Liberal feeding, an occasional dewing overhead, fumiga- tion by the vaporising process, staking and tying, all play their part. Selection of Begonias. Double Varieties, Aurora, yellow. Baron Schroder, orange scarlet. Beauty of Belgrove, rose pink. B. R. Davis, crimson, Duchess of Fife, white. Felix Crousse, orange scarlet. Henshaw Russell, orange. La France, rose. Mabel Keevil, white (sec 9204.) Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain, blush (see p. 55). Mrs. Tweedie, white. Mrs. Lynch, salmon. Octavie, white. Rey. E. Lascelles, yellow. Rose Laing, rose pink. Sir J. Pender, salmcn, Single Varieties. Beacon, crimson. Delight, pink. Duchess of Westminster, salmon. Firefly, crimson scarlet. Gloriosum, yellow. Heroof Omdurman,orange scarlet, King of the crimson. Lady Grosvenor, salmon. Miss Cannell, rose pink. Prince-of Orange, orange scarlet. Queen of Roses, rose. Queen of Yellows, yellow. Snowdrift, white. Snowstorm, white, Begonias, Winter Flowering Varieties. Adonis, carmine, Caledonia, white. Ensign, red, Gloire de Lorraine, rose. Gloire de Sceaux, pink, dark leaves, John Heal, rosy carmine. Socotrana, rose. Turnford Hall, white. Winter Cheer, scarlet. Winter Gem, deep carmine. Bedding Varieties. Argus, glowing scarlet. Hollyhock, rich pink. Lafayette, crimson scarlet. Little Pet ; this is rather a classname than a varietal one, as it includes almost the whole range of use- ful bedding colours, the several forms being known respectively as White Pet, Scarlet Pet, Yellow Pet, ete. Louise Robert,rose,doub!e. Meteor, orange, bronze leaves, Mons. L, Urban, crimson, double. phosphorescens, _ scarlet, semi-double, Semperfiorens Princess Beatrice, rose pink. Semperflorens Vernon, pink, metallic bronze leafage. Vesuvius, bright scarlet. Worthiana, orange scariet. BELLADONNA LILIES. 57 Modern florists’ varieties are now offered in distinct shades of colour, especially selected for bedding purposes ; these are supplied as tubers or as seed, at the will of the customer. They are selected for their compact habit and erect flower stems, and they are extremely useful in the flower garden in wet summers, as they delight in cool, moist conditions that are fatal to a fine show of Zonal Geraniums. Chapter XVI.—Belladonna Lilies. Ir is gravely urged by those who either do not attempt its cultivation or have failed with it, that the beautiful Belladonna Lily has one serious failing, inasmuch as it does not produce its flowers and leaves simultaneously. If, for the sake of argument, we admit this is a failing, then the opposition must grant that, after all, it is only a small one. But the true plant lover will never allow his enthusiasm to be damped by such a criticism. A native of the Cape of Good Hope, Amaryllis Belladonna is not perfectiy hardy in ‘the sense that the Daffodils are hardy. Throughout the southern counties and in most of the sheltered districts of the kingdom it may, however, be successfully grown out of doors provided a few points are carefully followed. A narrow border, such as is frequently to be found on the south side of the dwelling or plant house, will be an ideal site if it is open to the sun and sheltered from strong winds. Should the soil be poor, as it often is in a position of this kind, then it must receive the addition of decayed cow manure, while if heavy it must be lghtened with leaf mould and coarse sand. In either case deep digging is essential a short time previous to planting the bulbs. The best time to plant is early _ autumn, just after the flowers have faded. Six inches is a suitable depth, and a similar distance should separate the bulbs. Winter protection must be provided, and it may consist either of strawy litter, partially decayed leaves, or dry Bracken, but it must be. _ removed as soon as the new foliage pushes forth in the spring. _ Planted in a border of the kind indicated, the Belladonna Lily is too often allowed to suffer from lack of moisture while in full _ growth, and the natural sequence is a poor crop of flowers at the end of the summer. Liquid manure applied in late spring and _ early summer will materially assist established bulbs. The Belladonna Lily has bright rose coloured flowers ; blanda and pallida are pale varieties, and Kewensis and major are larger and more richly coloured forms. 58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapier XWII.—Caladiums. Amonast all stove tuberous rooted plants that are cultivated for the beauty of their leafage the Caladiums are the most popular, and were it not for the fact that strong, moist heat is essential they would be found in all small as well as large gardens. The leaves vary in size from a diameter of 3 inches in the charming argyrites to 15 or 18 inches in candidum and others, while there is an intermediate size of which minus erubescens may be cited as an example. For the early summer months these plants are invaluable for the odd and characteristic air that no-others would impart. The propagation is readily effected in spring by division of the tubers as shown in the diagram, Fig. 17, p. 59, and the plants should have a rich compost comprising 2 parts of fibrous loam, 1 part of each fibrous peat, decomposed leaf mould, and dried and pounded cow manure, with sufficient coarse sand to insure perfect porosity. The pots should always stand upon a moist base, and at the same time atmospheric moisture with a temperature of 80° by day will be necessary so as to encourage the leaves to push up on long, strong foot stalks. Repotting must always be done early in the year, and, except where large specimens for the purpose of -exhibition are required, 6-inch or 8-inch pots will meet all requirements. As soon as the foliage begins to show signs of decay, which will be scon after midsummer, unless special treatment has been accorded, water should be gradually withheld with a view to ripening off the tops and maturing the tubers, which call for a decided rest every season if they are to continue in good health. Selection of Caladiums. argyrites (correctly Hum- boldtil), green and white Amarante, red, violet, and rose, Auguste Charpentier, car- mine, red, gold, and green. Baron Adolphe de Roth- schild, red, carmine, and green, Chariotte Hoffmann, white candidum, white. Clio, rose, white, and green John Peed, red and green. minus erubescens, crimson and green. ; Oriflamme, red and green. Rose Laing, white and crimson. Silver Cloud, white, green, and carmine, Q = CALADIUMS. BOW TO PROPAGATE a ee --ste - ~ 2 rere ay a - ee ——— — “VY STU 4v G9 OF OO JO oANQvANd 94 vB UT “BuLAds UL poJDOTJO SI UOISTAIP Puv Sjosyo Aq uotrsvdorg ‘OPIATP 0} Moy ‘4.2 SUMOID & QT 1aquy ‘gq "UOISIATpqus ‘/ ‘roqny ureu surayvy ‘a fgosyo Surypovjyop ‘po {spnq podoroaopun fo f yosyo “q fUMOAO [eIYUAD “YM + sloqny, OsIv] ‘YW ‘SSINIGVIVO YNILVOVdOUd—‘LT “OId “SGCUOM MMT NI SUNIH NIVId—'HOILOVaAd TWItOLold a y Haft R ‘ ia 60 | PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter XVIIL—Calochorti. ComMoNLY known as Mariposa Lilies, these are amongst the most exquisitely beautiful of all the bulbous plants; some of » Photo: Casaeht and Co., Lid. FIG. 18.—CALOCHORTUS SPLENDENS. (See page 61.) them only develop to perfection when afforded frame treatment, but many do equally well in the border or the bed. The species | HOW TO GROW CANNAS. 61 _are fairly numerous, but several are rarely seen in general cultivation. There is a strain of OC. venustus, known as the Eldorado, that comprises many different colours, and in some the basal markings on the inner side of the sesments are peculiarly refined. This, it may be said, is a characteristic of the ma‘ ‘ority of the species of | this genus. Selection of Calochorti. albus, white. amenus, rich pink, ‘ceruleus, pale blue ; several varieties, lilacinus, pale purple. luteus, yellow ; the varieties citrinus and concolor are good. Gunnisonii, white, yellow centre, Howellii, white. pulchellus, yellow. Purdyi, white. splendens, lilac (see p. 60). venustus, white ; fine cone stitution. i clavatus, yellow. | Chapter XIX.—Canmas. “Taover there is no question that the beautiful Canna is rapidly attaining a place in public favour consistent with its merits, yet the plant is even now not appreciated in the same degree as many others which it is well qualified to displace. The ease with which it may be grown, the extreme brightness and beauty of its blossoms, _and its stately and aristocratic appearance generally are all points which should tell strongly in its favour. Possibly the size to which it attains is a drawback to its employ- ment in very small gardens, but these same gardens often accom- modate a Dahlia, Sunflower, or even Hollyhock, which takes every bit as much room as would a Canna, and which, moreover, has no greater claims to distinction. As a back row plant in a wide | border, a subject to break up the monotony of a flat one, a centre for a bed of dwarfer plants, or even as a filler of large beds by itself, the Canna has very few equals, and, all things considered, no superiors. Too tall, perhaps, for a window box, on a verandah or balcony it is supreme, and even makes a noble ornament in a vase or tub. A dwarf race with beautiful flowers now exists. _ Then, for conservatory, greenhouse, or dwelling-house decoration what could be finer than a well-grown Canna or a group of its -well-flowered specimens ? For halls and corridors it forms a “splendid successor to the Arum Lily while that useful plant is | ) ee — resting, beautifies large fireplaces in a manner far beyond com- 62 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. parison from ordinary screens, and as an inmate of the fashionable large china or brass vases fills a corner in the drawing-room in a manner all its own. For gorgeousness of blossom the Canna can give points to most of its congeners, the Orchid-flowered section yielding some of the most brilliant flowers known. Visitors to the fruit shows at the Crystal Palace will well recall how all others of Flora’s progeny present paled their ineffectual fires before the all-conquering Canna, and at the Jaree Chrysanthemum exhibitions its triumph over the “Mum is only in less degree because of the vast dis- proportion of the respective flowers in number At one time Canna culture was thought to hold great secrets, but all of these—if, indeed, there were any—have now been revealed, and the generally accepted conclusion to-day is that the man who can grow good Dahlias will be equally successful with Cannas. In fact, in their propagation and general treatment the two can’ be very conveniently bracketed together, with the single exception, perhaps, that the Canna outshines its confrére as a pot plant. Both inay be stored in a frostproof place during winter—giving the Canna first choice in the matter of warmth—and both can be propagated by seeds or division in spring. Nay,-still further can the parallel be carried. for even as the Dahlia is started in heat, and its resultant shoots detached and struck—as cuttings, so in like manner can the finest Cannas be grown, provided that a piece of the old rootstock accompanies each separated growth. Many Cannas are worth growing for their foliage alone, which is often a beautiful bronze colour, and in some instances variegated, These, however, and indeed all the tall forms, such as those comprised in the Orchid-flowered section, should have a sheltered position afforded them, as reugh winds soon spoil the beauty of their leaves. The Gladiolus-flowered sorts are dwarfer and stand breezes better ; they are also more suitable for pot culture. The beginning of June is quite early enough to bed Cannas out, and they are much benefited by a mulching of long manure and copious drenchings of water during hot, dry weather. Seeds of a good strain yield handsome plants, with flowers of good size and colour, but anyone wishing to obtain the very best results would do well to plant named varieties, of which a selection is given herewith. Selection of Cannas. America, scarlet and Italia, orange scarlet, orange. yellow margin. Aurore, red. Konigin Charlotte, red, Austria, canary, dotted edged gold. 7 brown (see p. 63). Menelik, reddish crimson, Capri, salmon scarlet. Madame Crozy, vermilion, Jyuchess of York, yellow, edged gold. spotted red. Pandora, red and gold. KHdouard André, red, Plato, red, flamed orange. spotted yellow. | } ae A BEAUTIFUL CANNA. FIG. 19.—CANNA AUSTRIA. (See page 62.) 64 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. q Chapter XX.—Chionodoxas. THE popular name of these most delightful bulbous plants is expressive of the period of the year at which they flower—Glory © of the Snow. Beautiful, indeed, are the Chionodoxas, and one cannot © simulate surprise at their ever- growing popularity. They are most FIG. 20.—COLCHICUM AUTUMNALE, (See page 65.) frequently seen in association with the chaste single Snowdrop, and in positions that are wholly congenial to both kinds produce a charming picture. The species and varieties are not numerous, and those who cultivate them all will find no cause for regret. They are propagated both by seeds and offsets. Allenii, violet, very free. Cretica, blue and white: grandiflora, violet, large nana, white, striped lilac, and fine, dwarf, rare. Luciliz, blue and white. Sardensis, b!ue and white. Lucilie alba, white, yery Tmolusii, purple, blue, choice. and white, late, | SOME GOOD COLCHICUMS. 65 Chapter XXI.—Colchicums. THE popular name of “Autumn Crocuses” arose from the close resemblance of these flowers to the well-known Crocuses of spring, and has the merit of being accurately descriptive, if nothing more. They préduce much larger blooms than Crocuses, and differ from these again in sending up their flowers in autumn and the bold leafage in spring. ‘Selection of Colchicums. autumnale, purple. Nu- Byzantinum, purple rose, merous varieties, includ- Sibthorpui, white, spotted ing double white, purple, purple. rose and striped (see p.64) speciosum, purplish rose. Bornmiilleri, purple and variegatum, white, spotted white. liiac. | Chapter XXii.—cCrinums. Foremost though they be among the many fine members of the great Amaryllis family, it is an unpleasant fact that Crinums are not the plants for everybody. Beautiful in flower, stately in habit, and handsome in foliage, it is little wonder the owner of small glass structures and a garden whose soil is heavy and cold sadly shakes his head as he passes some splendid specimen in the more favoured garden of a neighbour. For garden purposes Crinums can be divided into three sections, i.e. those requiring a stove temperature, those which succeed in a greenhouse, and the few that thrive in the open, and are, in fact, hardy in sheltered places. The two former are grown in large pots or tubs, in a compost of sound loam and peat, two parts of the former to one of the latter, with the addition of sufficient sharp ‘sand to keep the whole porous. Crinums love plenty of water when growing and flowering, but with rare exceptions they abhor stagnant moisture. As the bulbs are large, the pots for their accommodation must of necessity be large too, and they must be effectively drained. Fortunately Crinums do not need re-potting every year after they reach a flowering size, but it is a good plan E ——— nl rece — beer eta 2 El SS 66 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. to scrape off the top soil and give an annual _top-dressing of fresh, rich soil; liquid manure is valuable to well established plants. In other respects the different requirements of the two sections are only questions of heat and moisture. A free use of the syringe throughout the summer, and frequent sponging of the foliage to ensure cleanliness, are two important items in Crinum culture. Coming to those that have proved hardy in many parts of the kingdom, it is worth while remembering that biting winds and frost following wet weather are the chief causes of trouble, for while the bulbs are hardy enough the large leaves are not infre- quently damaged, and the plant is thereby weakened to the extent of materially reducing the crop of bloom. For this division a sunny border, sheltered from strong wines, is desirable as a position ; and the soil should be deep and rich, without containing any fresh manure; it must also be retentive of moisture, but not in any sense approaching stagnation. If the selected spot is in front of a stove or greenhouse, the chances of success are much improved. Plant the bulbs not less than 8 inches deep. Selection of Crinums. emabile, rose purple; Karki, white, striped red ; stove. stove. Americanum, white, frag- longifollum (Capense), rant; greenhouse or pink; hardy. There is hardy. also a white form. augustum, red; stove. ‘Moorei, rose; greenhouse campanulatum, red or hardy. purple; greenhouse. Powellii, rose; hardy, or erubescens, white and greenhouse in cold _ lo- purple; stove. calities. There are fine giganteum, ivory white, white and red varieties very sweet scented ; of this handsome hybrid. stove. Chapter XXUll.—Crocuses. THERE are among gardeners many who study and delight in bird life, doing all in their power to preserve our feathered friends. There is, however, one bird against which we all wage incessant warfare, especially in the spring, when the yellow Crocuses are in flower. The ubiquitous sparrow is the gardener’s most inveterate | 5 enemy, for of good in the garden he does little or none, while of irreparable damage he annually does much. Sparrows strip our yellow Crocuses of their petals. Notwithstanding the possibility of much of the beauty being destroyed by these marauders, it is indefensible to omit Crocuses” BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF CROCUS. 67 from the garden. In beds, in borders, or in grass they are_ | invaluable, and the grower must take such steps as he considers wise to prevent or mitigate the possible damage. Selection of Dutch Crocuses. Albion, striped. Mont Blanc, pure white. * Avalanche, pure white. Prince Albert, dark blue. Celestial, blue. purpurea grandiflora, rich Gladiator, dark blue. purple. John Bright, intense blue. *Sir Walter Scott, lilac *Golden Yellow, superb. striped. *King of the Blues, rich Vulcan, very deep purple, purple blue. White Pearl, pure white. La Majestueuse, lilac striped. Four of the best are marked by an asterisk, | The varieties embodied in the above list may, if needed, _be grown in pots, though where the most striking effects are required they may be advantageously planted in beds, for which purpose, however, those described as Large Yellow, Large Blue, Large White, Large Striped, and Cloth of Gold are generally employed with satisfactory results. The corms of these can be purchased so remarkably cheaply that they may be planted in thousands. 3 Species of Crocuses. As in the case of Tulips, so in Crocuses; the species have a refined style of beauty, which the Dutch varieties can never give, / and are in every way worthy of a hundredtold more attention than is at present accorded to them. Apart from this, by making a judicious choice, flowers may be had in abundance in August, when the Dutch sorts have long since: gone to rest. It will be observed that the flowers of many species are smaller than the Dutch varieties, and the corms may, therefore, be planted rather _ closer. ) Selections of Species. Spring flowering. Autumn flowering. aureus, orange yellow. Clusii, purple. Balanse, orange, feathered Hadriaticus, white. mahogany. longiflorus, lilac purple. biflorus, white. nudiflorus, purple. chrysanthus, orange. pulchellus, blue. ‘ Danfordiz, pale yellow: sativus, purple. Fleicheri, white, feathered Scharojanil, richest golden purple. yellow. Garganicus, yellow. speciosus, lilac purple. Imperati, exterior buff. Tournefortii, lilac, feath- Sieberi, lilac. ered purple. . Tommasinianus, lavender. vernus, white to purple. — - versicoler, purple striped. Crown Imverials.—See FRITILLARIA. 68 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter XXiV.—Cyclamens. THESE are undoubtedly amongst the most interesting plants that we can grow in our gardens. ‘The hardy species have not the size of those which are so largely cultivated in pots in every greenhouse, but in their marked refinement, the charming leafage, the quaint elegance of the flowers, and in their fragrance, they possess recommendations entitling them to all the attention it is possible to accord. ‘The old-fashioned Cyclamen Persicum was decidedly perfumed, and while some of the modern varieties have this attribute, it is in a much less pronounced form, having been worked out in the process of evolution. This is regrettable, as fragrance in any flower must enhance its interest and charm. The hardy species and varieties form delightful colonies in the rock garden, and those especially which bloom very early in the year are practically indispensable, as their places cannot be filled by any other kind of plants that will flourish in our gardens. They may be used in association with various plants, but much care is necessary in this direction, as the foliage of the Cyclamens alone is an ornament and must on no account be smothered by coarser growing subjects. Selections of Cyclamens. For all practical purposes the greenhouse section is confined _to C. Persicum in considerable variety, including the normal as well as the large-flowered form, usually designated grandifiorum because it has bolder blooms. In the former division we have plenty of range as regards colour and superbly marbled leafage, while in the latter we have glorious flowers, but less conspicuously beautiful foliage. Almost all our leading houses offer named sorts, and no particularly useful purpose would be served by their enumeration here. Excellent results may be secured by purchasing mixed seeds* (keeping the two divisions separate, of course), as these are generally saved from the finest colours. Hardy Cyclamens. Atkins, purple and white. Neapolitanum, red and Coum, purple. white. . Europeum, reddish purple. hederifolium, purple. Ibericum, red. repandum, crimson, vernum, dark red, * A valuable practical illustration dealing with Cyclamen propagation will be found on page 144 of ‘‘ Pictorial Practical Gardening.”’ HOW TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS. 69 Chapter XXV.—Dalfodils. Classification and Selection. THe month of April is the month of Daffodils as far as outdoor gardening is concerned, and much difficulty would be experienced in FIG. 21—HOW TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS. A, parent bulb of Sir Watkin. B, offsets two years from planting. C, parent and offsets divided and planted. finding any garden worthy the name in which the golden flower is not represented. ‘ PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. ~~] fewest Apart from considerations of garden adornment, Daffodils have a value for decorative purposes indoors, where, if given fresh water each day, they last fora week, or even more, in fine condition. Of course, when they are put into rooms whose atmosphere is laden with the fumes of gas the blooms are much shorter lived. Classification is the order of the day amongst all flowers, and fortunately with Narcissi the dividing lines are so sharply defined that they are easily understood. Daffodils in this respect differ substantially from other flowers, in whose divisions the classifiers themselves have the utmost difficulty in finding the points. The separation of the Daffodils into sections is governed by easy natural laws into large, medium, and small trumpet varieties. The botanist would not express himself in such terms as these, but would say Magni-Coronati, Medio-Coronati, and Parvi-Coronati, respectively. Happily, these terms are readily Anglicised, and the average Board school youth, in the profundity of his Latin knowledge, would be readily equal to the task. To illustrate the three sections in the order given, Emperor, Sir Watkin, and poeticus may be mentioned. The variations in form amongst Daffodils are so great that sub- sections might be originated; indeed, some attempt has been made in this direction, but except where the governing factor has been botanical success has not been great. Were it not for the varied sizes and shapes, the popularity of the Datfodil would soon start on the down grade, for the range of colouration is limited. There are yellows in varying shades, white, and in some of the small and medium cupped flowers rich orange and red. It would be comparatively simple to secure from two dozen judiciously selected varieties practically all the tones of colour, unless one sought for infinitesimal differences; but were one bound down in such a way as this, the loss in form and size would be so - great that, except for the smallest gardens, the collection would be : incomplete. Happily, too, for the maintenance of interest in the Narcissus family, there is a beautiful latitude in price. Im fact, there are indications that the thirst for unique varieties, as in Orchids of the present day and the Tulip mania of a century or so back, is growing, and that the enthusiast is prepared to pay any amount provided that he can get something which his neighbour does not possess. Before making his selections the would-be champion should examine his bank book and decide to what limits he can go. We ean find plenty of varieties ranging from 12 to 18 guineas a bulb; we can go still farther and pay 50 guineas for some highly extolled novelty, or we can have 1,000 sound flowering bulbs for as small a sum as one anda half guinea. ‘“ Common !” someone may say. Yes; but if planted in the grass in the wild garden or the woodland they will make a lovely display. One might regard the purchase of 20-guinea bulbs as an investment, but with men like the Rev. G. H. Engleheart at work it y SELECTIONS OF DAFFUDILS. "1 is precarious, as by the time one has raised a stock to give him eent. per cent. interest. this genius in Daffodil development may have raised something infinitely superior, and the gold mine turn out a loss. Selections of Large Trumpet Varieties. The factor governing the inclusion of any variety in this section is that the corona, crown, or trumpet—call it which you will—is as long as, or longer than, the segments of the perianth. Five sub- sections are readily instituted, namely, (1) Bulbocodium, which is very distinct in having a trumpet that completely overshadows the segments of the perianth ; (2) yellow flowered varieties ; (3) bicolor varieties ; (4) sulphur and white varieties; and (5) double varieties. Bulbocodium—Hoop Petticoat.—The type variety of this section is pure yellow, and there are sulphur, white, and yellow forms, all ranging in height from 4 to 6 inches, and all particularly effective for pot culture. The best are the type, citrinus, and monophylla. Yellow Trumpets—A very handsome division, comprising some of the noblest Daffodils of our gardens. 3 abscissus, major. Alma (see p. 76). maximus, Ard Righ. minimus, Captain Nelson. minor. cyclamineus, M. J. Berkeley. ec. major. nanus, Emperor. obvallaris. Glory of Leyden. Pseudo Narcissus Golden Spur. (Lent Lily). Henry Irving. B. . Bare: Johnstoni Queen of spurius. Spain. - Abscissus has sulphur segments and a yellow trumpet, but its chief value is in its late flowering and its ready adaptability to culture in grass. Narcissus cyclamineus and its variety major are amongst the gems of the family. They are somewhat difficult to establish, but are worth any trouble. If a semi-shaded situation at the foot of a rockery can be afforded, and the soil is mainly good loam, with | some leaf mould and sand, disappointment-is not very likely to - accrue. Licolor Varieties.—This division is peculiarly rich in fine varieties, whose period of flowering is very extended. The trumpet may be any shade of yellow, and the segments of the perianth pure white, or as nearly so as possible. Madame Plemp. Mrs. Walter Ware. Mrs. Morland Cros- - Cygnet (see p. 77). Dean Herbert. Empress, Grandee (late), field. Horsefieldii (early). princeps. J. B. M. Camm. Scoticus. Victoria. John Davidson. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 72 “UOISIATP Juoredde ynoyjIM UMOID 9 + sHApURITy ‘oT “SJOSJO JOUTJSIPUL “Y f SUMOIO TBIQUaD OMG {ls SnIOpO ‘q “qosyo [TRUS “| f Josyo osuvy “y $ q~nq SuTeMOT [eaquoo ‘6 : snuayd suimowryay, ‘O “SJOSYO JOUYSIP YF SUAO.AO OPIS “A SUAOIO SuULTOMOY [BAZ Ued “p : snolyeod jo qrnq pouMmodd AULUL “Ff "JOSHO JOuLSTpUr “9 Sgasyo qourysrp ‘q {qavd Suttamoy ‘o : ssoaduge *y ISSIOGUVN SNOIUVA JO SATNA—2 “HI ‘SGUOM MUA NI SENIH NIVId—'HOLLOVad IVINOLOId il ANN \\ \\ \ 0o OF PLANTING DAFFODILS. HPTH D dovyans ‘s fuMor) Sh Ildaivg “snorjeod Stqereduoouy ‘SIIVT[BVAQO SB yous S ‘9ZIS PUODS 9I[} JO sqinq =) "[LOS Jo oovyJrns ‘df qinq Jo WMO ‘o § pus Sw $ qinq Jo oseq Sw :doep sayour 9 “‘sniinds pue “indg uepfoy ‘ssordwigy ‘io1odug se yous ‘OZ1S JSOOAVT OY} JO SQ[NG YAM [Los Jo uorpoos “FT ‘STIGOIAVG SNOLYVA ‘ONILNVId JO SHidaa—'e ‘Hid ‘SGUOM MUA NI SINIH NIVId—‘HOILOVad ‘aseq ‘hb : deep soyourt ¢ ‘ispeeyT pure $ IVIGOLOTd penta” OOTY | Es ay * ay Yee Vall % ih My A Rh NY 08 “ry ny hes are: LOT DY: Wee My, AEA Ly : Ws Veh) Wf fled ‘4 a Wf Mig Ny) Woes liMpy ih) nf iy G47, HY My /; a Hy) WD Up Yh it) 1) ALG Y i ye, Wh Mf Wy) Wh ii ‘ My Hy My WN HY My A Ws Mi, TY Hy fu) ii bay THM rei Uy / 7 dh WE / Wy) / YW V4/ When othe: wy) nil i) hy Wea i Y iy i) yi ae WH Wt ay a Bde Ki i Pig yl Pl MLL 4 i ne / Wp My y), i i Ne ii ee Wy a Ni ! in ¥ ty iy ce ih yl} Wa 4 TY A nl NAS SSS 7; fi Vie We yal LM | A \ Dian act DNS, AMID LL SWAT Ge) Mya yon WELLE atl TLE ME Li AN wt SSS Kc it PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. aouzins ‘2 {pros ouy “A f sqrnq ‘ f [ros ‘m :doop soyoul g ‘snrpuRLTy pur UNTpooog[ng sv Tons ‘sqrnq ysorTeurs or) ‘T ‘ooujtns “a tsqrnq “7 f [los 7 sdoop solpoul p ‘sn4opo sv Ons ‘edUOLoJUMOITO YOUL T Jnoqe Jo squaq ‘ET ISSIOUVN SNOIUVA ONILNVId JO SHIdad—'bs ‘Old == ww» SR PS - Salad ; ~~ —— CF THE FNCOMPARABILIS SECTION. ~y 5 Sulphur and White Varieties—The characteristic feature of this division is refinement. Many of the varieties carry the flowers in a drooping manner, and are very graceful. They can scarcely be termed suitable for town gardens, as their exquisite delicacy of colour renders them very liable to become soiled by the impurities of the atmosphere. In the country, where their beauty is unlikely to be marred, they are superb. albicans. Mrs. J. B. M. Camm. cernuus. Mrs. Vincent. C. W. Cowan. pallidus precox, L’ Innocence. tortuosus. Madame de Graaff, W. P. Milner. moschatus, William Goldring. Double Varieties.—The large trumpeted section of the Narcissus family does not afford many double varieties. The most valuable is the common double Dattodil, N. Telamonius plenus, which is unexcelled for naturalisation in grass, and is one of the most satisfactory for pot culture. ‘ecapax plenus. plenissimus. cernuus plenus. Scoticus plenus, minor plenus. Telamonius plenus. Large Trumpet Daffodils for Pots.— broadly speaking, all the varieties that have been enumerated succeed under pot culture as long as this is understood to mean very gentle advance- ment into flower. Where, however, decided measures are to be adopted to induce early flowering, those varieties carrying the bud very high up towards the neck in the dormant bulbs will be found the most satisfactory. As a single variety possessing this peculiarity in a marked degree, the beautiful bicolor Victoria may be noted, and as a double the old Telamonius plenus. Many complaints of Daffodils failing under forcing may be traced to the fact that unsuitable varieties have been chosen, and no regard has been had for the rule of guidance provided in the position of the flower in the bulb. The Incomparabilis Section.—The governing characteristics of this most charming section is that the corona or crown shall be half as long as the segments of the perianth. Some modification of this standard is observable in a few varieties, in which the cup is approximately three-quarters the length of the perianth segments. The Jabours of the hybridist in this division have been crowned by some remarkable results, Mr. Engleheart particularly having given us some hybrids and secondary hybrids of the highest excellence. These efforts have not been directed so much to increasing the bulk of the fiower as to improving its contour and substance, and at the same time enriching the colour. As typifying these points the brilliant Lucifer may be mentioned. It has elegance of form, richness of colour, and such substance as will (=p) PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. FIG. 25.- NARCISSUS ALMA. (See page 71.) CYGNET., NARCISSUS —NARCISSUS CYGNET. . 26. FIG (See page 71.) 78 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. allow it to be kept fresh in water about twice as long as any other variety. Contrary to general supposition, which accords specific rank to Incomparabilis, this is really of hybrid origin, the parentage, as in the Barril section, to which attention will presently be called, being yellow trumpet Daffodils and Narcissus poeticus. Selection of Incomparabrlis varveties. * Autocrat. *Queen Bess (very early). * Beauty. Queen Sophia. C. J. Backhouse. semi-partitus. Commander, *Sir Watkin (the noblest *Cynosure. of the section). George Nicholson. | *Stella, *Gwyther. *Stella superba. *King of the Netherlands. - Strongbow (see p. 79). Mabel Cowan (late). * Titan. Princess Mary. From the vigour of habit which enables them to carry their flowers on long, stout stems, and the beauty of their colouration, those marked * are peculiarly adapted for naturalisation in grass and for massing in nursery beds for cutting. For the former purpose, too, the subjoined doubles are suitab:e, though they have scarcely the grace of the singles. Double forms of Incomparabilis. Butter and Eggs. Eggs and Bacon (Orange Codlins and Cream (Sulphur - Pheenix). Phoenix). Golden Phoenix (very fine). The Leedsii Section. — belonging to the botanical division known as imedio-coronati, and having similar distinguishing characteristics as to size as the Incomparabilis, the Leedsil varieties must have the corona or cup either pure white or soft lemon, passing to white with age. This section is artificial, having white trumpet Daffodils and poeticus as its parents. If the entire family be considered in sections, each complete in itself, it will be seen that in the Leedsii lies the essence of refinement. That individuals from each might be chosen against which no word could be raised none will dispute, but the Leedsii division may be regarded as a whole, and no really coarse member will be discovered, though some will, of course, be more refined than others. Selection of Leedsit varieties. amabilis. Madge Matthew. Beatrice. *M. Magdaline de Graaff. *Duchess of Brabant. * Minnie Hume. . *Duchess of Westminster. Modesty. *Fanny Mason. *Mrs. Langtry. Gem. Palmerston (late). *Grand Duchess (early). Princess of Wales. *Katherine Spurrell. * See note at foot of Incomparabilis, nme aie STRONGBOW. FIG. 27.-NARCISSUS STRONGBOW (See page 78, ) 80 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. The Barrii Section.—The relationship between this section and Incomparabilis is intimate, as both are of the same origin, but the distinguishing characters show a marked difference. ‘To be a Barrit the segments of the perianth must be twice or more the length of the short, expanded corona or crown. If this division were limited to one variety only, and this was the now comparatively aged conspicuus, it might still be said to be one of the most important. For massing in the border, the bed, or in grass, this variety has no superior, while for cutting it is superb. Happily, too, it is so low in price that it is within the means of everyone. Selection of Barri varveties. conspicuus. Miriam Barton. Crown Prince. Mrs. C. Bowley. Cupid (very late). Orphée. Flora Wilson. Sensation, Maurice Vilmorin. It may be noted in respect of the Incomparabilis, Leedsii, and Barril sections that the colour, especially of the margin of the corona, varies with the period of flowering and with the age of the flower. For example, richly edged varieties under pot culture are apt to come slightly paler under the unnatural conditions of growth. Again, many of these lose colour rapidly under the fierce rays of the sun, and for cutting should be secured at about the three-quarter expanded state of the bud, when all the intensity is retained without loss to either the size or the substance of the bloom. The Humei Section.—To all intents and purposes this section is limited to two varieties, whose flowers are of a pronouncedly ‘nodding character. They make up in interest and charm, both for border culture and naturalisation, what the section lacks in numbers. Hume’s concolor, Hume’s Giant. Selection of Backhousei Varieties.—This is a compara- tively small section, but one whose marked characteristic—a dwarfed, stout, trumpet shaped corona—makes it not only very distinct but also very desirable. Backhousei. William Wilks. Border Maid. Wolley Dod. Joseph Lakin. Selection of Nelsoni Varieties.—The scgments of the perianth in this section are of much substance and pure white, while the corona is somewhat goblet shaped, and usually of great beauty. Every variety is suitable for any form of outdoor culture, ae SOME OF THE SMALLER NARCISSI 81 and for growing in pots their striking though refined character makes them very desirable. aurantius. pulchellus. major. Stanley. Mrs. Backhouse. William Backhouse. Selection of Bernardi Varieties.—This section makes up in beauty and interest what it lacks in numbers. Like many of our beautiful Narcissi the type comes from the Pyrenees, where it is ‘found as a natural hybrid, and it was the veteran Peter Barr who proved the parentage to be N. poeticus and N. abscissus. Need- less to say, the floweris of the most refined character. Bernardi. Fire Glow (new and expen- H. E. Buxton. sive), Selection of tridymus Varieties.—[rom the foregoing sec- tion that of tridymus differs in many respects, but the distinction is now raised because it is a garden instead of a natural hybrid. The parents were a large trumpet variety and a form of Narcissus Tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus), and from the latter it inherits the propensity to produce two or three flowered scapes and a sweet perfume. A. Rawson. St. Patrick (expensive), Cloth of Gold (expen- S. A. de Graaff. sive). The Twins (new and expen- Miss White. -. sive), Selection of triandrus Varieties.—The popular name that has been accorded to these Daffodils is Angels’ Tears, and its peculiar appropriateness is not fully realised until the delightful flowers are seen in some congenial spot whose soil is gritty loam, well drained and moderately heavily shaded. The plants rarely exceed 7 inches in height, and the mode of carrying the flowers on the stem has given rise to another favourite appellation— Cyclamen flowered Narcissus. albus. concolor. calathinus, - pulchellus, Selection of odorus Varieties.—In this small section we find the fragrant Jonquils, whose flowers sell in their tens of thousands in the big markets of the country. They may be planted in clumps in borders, or cultivated in pots, but the ideal place is in the grass towards the margins of streams or lakes, where their Nush-like leafage makes them singularly appropriate, apart from the charming yellow blooms. odorus (the Camper- odorus plenus. nelle Jonquil). Campernelli plenus (rare heminalis rugulosus, and expensive). Rush-leaved Daffodils.—Apart from the Jonquils, there are at least three Rush-leaved Daffodils that are very charming. They F : | 82 PICTORIAL PRAOTIOAL BULB GROWING. are scarcely suitable for naturalisation, however, as the flowers are very small; indeed, juncifolius is best in pots; it grows about 4 inches in height, and is effective in 3- or 4-inch pots. Gracilis exceeds 1 foot in height, and produces three or five flowered scapes, which are charming in pots or in a suitable position in the flower >= ———— FIG. 28, NARCISSUS POETICUS ORNATUS. (See page 83.) garden. ‘The blooms are very late in expanding. The slender straw coloured Daffodil tenuicr grows about 9 inches high, and carries several small flowers on a stem. ‘The first named of this trio belongs to the Medio-coronati, and the second and third named to the Parvi-coronati section, which is now to be dealt with. The True Narcissi.—To the section distinguished by Baker as Parvi-coronati belongs the distinction of having within its fold THE POET’S NARCISSUS. 83 the small crowned Daffodils, or true Narcissi, which is typified in poeticus. The governing characteristic is that the segments of the perianth shall be more than twice as long as the crown or corona, which is usually very flattened or expanded. Selection of Burbidgei Varieties.—The fanciful name of Star Narcissi has been given to the several varieties of the Burbidgei section, whose origin is due to a cross between Incom- parabilis and poeticus. They are extremely free flowering, and their graceful habit makes them admirable for every form of culture to which Daffodils are subjected. Again, they are very valuable for all purposes of decoration, in which respect they resemble the forms of poeticus. Burbidgei John Bain. Agnes Barr. Little Dirk. Baroness Heath, Model. Ellen Barr. ~ The Pet. Falstaff, Vanessa, Selection of poeticus Varieties.—If one were able to take a plebiscite of the Daffodil lovers throughout the country, including those who buy their penny and twopenny bunches of flowers, it is more than probable that the place of honour would be accorded to the chaste Poet’s Narcissus, which is beloved of everybody. Make a judicious selection, and you have one of the finest Daffodils for forcing that it is possible to procure; grow them by hundreds in the garden and by thousands in the grass of the woodland, and their beautiful flowers will never fatigue the eye. Narcissus poeticus divides naturally into early and late flowering sections, and the members of the former only are amenable to forcing treatment, for ahich the finest of all is ornatus. Larly: Almira grandiflorus. precox grandifiorus. ornatus (see p. 82). poetarum, Late. Marvel. poeticus of Linnzus, poeticus (the old Phea- Verbanensis. sant’s Kye). N. poeticus plenus is usually called the Gardenia flowered Narcissus, alike for its fragrance and the build of the flowers. Unfortunately, the buds are apt to come blind, two of the things predisposing to this being late planting and a very dry, hot position. Selection of Tazetta.—From a garden aspect, the Tazetta section—or, as it is almost invariably termed, the Polyanthus section—owes its popularity to Dutch raised varieties, whose value lies in their adaptability to pot culture. The following are, however, thoroughly worthy of inclusion :— Hermione citrina. intermedius major. Hermione Mediterranea. intermedius Sunset, 84 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Dutch Varieties. Bathurst. Maestro. Bazelman Major. Paper White and its Double Reman. varieties. Gloriosa. Queen of the Netherlands. Grand Monarque. Soleil d’Or. Her Majesty. States Genera. Jaune Supreme. White Pearl. The most useful of these for forcing are Paper White, in two or three varieties, and Double Roman, all pure white and extremely floriferous. Interesting Small-cupped Daffodils.—In addition to those to which attention has been called, there are several species that are extremely interesting, though they may not possess high merit as florist’s flowers. Biflorus, the Primrose Peerless Daffodil, is well known and much admired, as also are Jon- quilla and its double form, both of which are delightfully fragrant. The Jonquils are more useful for pot culture than for outdoors, where, if planted, they must have a warm posi- tion, in which they can receive winter protection. Schizanthes orientalis is bunch flowered, and grows 14 inches in height ; while the rare little serotinus carries its flowers on slender stems in autumn. Rare and Expensive Daffcdils. Except in occasional instances, the rarer varieties have been excluded from the foregoing selections, as the stock being very limited makes them exceedingly expensive to procure. Many of these have been raised by the Rev. G. H. Engleheart, Mr. J. W. Barr, the Rev. Eugene Bourne, and Mr. Backhouse ; while a few have come to us from Holland. To those who aspire to the dignity of being amongst the foremost specialists in Daffodil land some of the novelties are essential, but it must be understood that the purse should have long strings if half a dozen or a dozen are wanted. There can be no question as to the magnificence of such as Peter Barr, Weardale Perfection, Monarch, Big Ben, Lord Loberts, Duke of Bedford, and King Alfred; or of the striking beauty of Albatross, Border Maid, Cassandra, Una, Egret, Lucifer, Maggie May, Sceptre, Seagull, and White Queen, but one bulb of each of the seventeen enumerated would involve an expenditure of upwards of 150 guineas at the prices quoted in Barr’s catalogue. The superb white Ajax Peter Barr heads the list with 50 guineas, which must surely be a record for a single Daffodil bulb, in this or any other country. Abundant and Cheap Daffodils. Just as there are Daffodils whose cost is so great as to allow of their culture only by the favoured few, so are there DAFFODILS FOR ROCKIWORK. 85 Daffodils which are so cheap that they come within the scope ol anyone having a garden. But strictly speaking, it is not for the home garden, often of severely limited extent, that low priced varieties are required, because in this case the re- stricted numbers necessary do not involve a great outlay, except under special circumstances. It is those who wish to furnish areas of grass in lawns, wild gardens, woodland walks, and grassy meadows, demanding thousands of bulbs, that look for those which will make the best display for the lowest initial cost. Some excellent varieties are :— Barrii conspicuus. Henry Irving. Johnstoni Queen of odorus. Spain. princeps. pallidus precox. Telamonius plenug Horsefieldii. John Bain. poeticus, Emperor. poeticus ornatus. Palmerston. obvallaris, abscissus, Sir Watkin. Stella. Burbidgei. W. P. Milner. Daffodils for Rock Gardens. broadly speaking, any Daffodil that fourishes in the border will thrive in the rock garden, but the wise worker invariably euts his coat according to his cloth, and rather selects his varieties according to his rockwork. In rock gardens of con- siderable extent, such as are found in a few places, situations can be found for representatives of the several sections of the Narcissus family, but in small rockeries only those that make low growth, and will therefore be in harmony with their neigh- bours, ought to be chosen. It will frequently be found that varieties which make little or no progress in the general border will flourish amazingly in the rockery, for the simple reason that here a special soil may be provided 1f desirable, and a position can be chosen that ensures partial shelter from the sun. Again, in rockeries the perfection of drainage is readily ensured, and protective material can be applied in winter if necessary. Some of the best for rockwork are :— cyclamineus. nanus. cyclamineus major, Bulbocodium (Hoop Pet- juncifolius. ticoat) in variety. The Sweet Scented triandrus albus (Angel’s Jonquil. Tears). minor, Macleail. minimus. moschatus Daffodils for Pots. One occasionally hears it said that the varieties of Daffo- dils required for pot culture must be chosen with the greatest care, but as a mater of fact any sort one likes to put in pots and treat properly will grow and flower satisfactorily. &6 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter XXVi,—Dablias. We hear the hypercritical person saying that it is quite wrong to include Dahlias in this series of articles, as their roots are not bulbs at all, but tubers. This is, of course, perfectly true, but it is also beyond refutation that to the amateur the differences between bulbs, tubers, and corms are hazily understood, and those who do comprehend them admit that it is the flowers they want, and whether they are produced from this form of root or that does not make an iota of difference. The fact that the portion of the stem of their Dahlias which is buried beneath the soil swells up and is— thenceforth called a tuber has small interest to them in comparison with the best methods to induce the plants to bring flowers to perfection, either for their own enjoyment in the garden or for exhibition. Both as an exhibition and_a garden flower the Dahlia hae seen many changes, and has probably fluctuated more in. general esteem than any of our hardy or half-hardy plants. During the days of the rage for formality in the garden, as in everything else, the Show and Fancy Dahlias had an extraordinary vogue, and there were. gatherings in their honour from one end of the country to the other. Then came the inevitable change in fashion, and the supremacy of the Dahlia had a rude shaking. Again therecame the rise and the fall, until now we find the family at a height of popularity above which it is not likely to rise very much, and from which it is scarcely probable that it will fall. It may, we think, be safely said that the present position on a thoroughly firm basis is largely due to the development of the Cactus section, which provides a flower of brilliant beauty without the severe formality of the older florists’ type. In it we have an essentially garden flower as well as an exhibition one; hence its high position in public esteem at the present day, when the demand for beauty in the garden is greater than it ever was before. To a smaller degree but still worthy of recognition in a good work, the popularity is owing to the inception of the char ming “ Faney ” singles which were raised in the first place by the late Mr. T. W. Girdlestone : ey are floriferous, and there are several exquisite colours amongst them. Purely for garden adornment, there are many people who hold to the opinion that it is impossible to find a section that can compete with the small Pompons, whose freedom of flowering is little short of marvellous. It is raised against them by their detractors that they are equally as formal as the Show and Fancy types; but. DAHLIA EVA. CO ~J 88 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Photo : Cassell and Co., Ltd. FIG. 30.—YELLOW CACTUS DAHLIA MRS. CASTLE. ~ (See page 90.) SELECTIONS OF DAHLIAS. 89 | while this cannot be disputed, it must be granted that their _ floriferousness takes off from the stiffness to a very large extent. One can feel nothing but pleasure that every section has its _ adherents, as there is room in our gardens for them all, and it would be a thousand pities if either of them was allowed to die out.. So long as they all have their keen partisans, so long will I they be widely grown and highly appreciated. As to their value in - the garden it were an impossibility to speak too generously, for _ from the middle of August until the end of September, and often much later, the oardens of England would be bare indeed did they not contain a considerable quantity of Dahlias. Fortunately they are plants of the small as well as of the large garden, and many of us have seen blooms in the cottagers’ enclosures that would in no sense have been out of place in any exhibition in the country. In numbers they could not have competed with those of a Walker, a Mortimer, a West, a Turner, or a Keynes, but individual examples there were whose inclusion in a stand from either of these sources would have brought no disgrace thereto. Selections of Dahlias. Twelve Show Varieties. Fancy Varieties, con- Colonist, chocolate and tinued. fawn. Matthew Campbell, buff Dr. Keynes, rich buff. and crimson. Duchess of York, lemon, Mrs. J. Downie, orange edged pink. and scarlet. J.T. West, yellow edged Mrs. Saunders, yellow and purple. white. John Walker, white. Rev. J. B. M. Camm, Maud Fellowes, pink, yellow and red. shaded purple. T. W. Girdlestone, lilac, Mrs. Gladstone, pale’blush., striped maroon, Mrs. Langtry, cream and Watchman, yellow,striped crimson. crimson. = ae ee oe Twenty - four Cactus y : Varieties. Victor, dark maroon. William Powell, primrose. Wm. Rawlings, crimson Ajax, orange and buff. Alpha, white, flaked purple. peeple. ce Britannia, salmon, shaded Twelve Fancy Varieties. apricot. Buffalo Bill, buff, striped Clara G. Stredwick, vermilion. salmon, shaded yellow. ~ Dorothy, fawn and Cornucopia, reddish sal- maroon. mon. Duchess of Albany,orange Eva, white (see p. 87). and crimson, Gabriel, crimson, tipped Emin Pasha, yellow, white. ; striped crimson. Galliard, crimson scarlet. Frank Pearce, rose, striped Island Queen (see p. 91). crimson. J. H. Jackson, maroon. Goldsmith, yellow, striped J. W. Wilkinson, rosy crimson. crimson. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Cactus Dahlas, con- tinued. J. Weir Fife, purplish crimson. Lord Roberts, ivory white Mrs. Carter Page, deep crimson. Mrs. Castle, yellow (sce yp. 88). Mrs. Edward Mawley, clear yellow. Mrs. J. J. Crowe, canary yellow. Mrs. Winstanley, scarlet shading to yellow. P. W. Tulloch, salmon tinted purple. Prince of Yellows, deep yellow. Ringdove, pinkish fawn shaded white. Rosine, rose. Vesta, pink. Viscountess Sherbrooke, terra-cotta. Twelve Pompon Varieties. Adelaide, blush edged lavender. Arthur West, rich crimson Bacchus, bright crimson scarlet, Daisy, salmon _ shaded amber. Pompon Vurietves, con- tinued. Darkest of (Ai = dark maroon. Donovan, white tipped lavender. Doris, silvery lilac. K. F. Junker, pale amber. Kimily Hopper, yellow. George Brinckman, white. Nerissa, soft pink. Tommy Keith, cardinal tipped white. Twelve Single Varieties. Alice Seale, crimson shaded scarlet. Aurora, yellow suffused orange, Beauty’s Hyes, satiny lilac, crimson disc. Columbine, rose shaded orange. ; Demon, rich maroon. Girlie, cream edged red. - Leslie Seale, lilac, crimson disc. Miss Roberts, clear yellow Polly Kecles, fawn, red disc. Robin Adair, tipped white. The Bride, pure white. Victoria, crimson, white band. petunia The Cultivation of Dahlias. In at least one respect the management of Dahlias differs materially from that of the greater number of plants that are grown in our gardens, inasmuch as it provides a distinct period of rest, when no attention whatever is called for from the owner. This extends from the time the stools are stored for the winter until the moment arrives for the propagation of fresh stock in the spring, or when the old stools are brought forth for utilisation again. ‘To those who want the finest flowers one has no hesitation in recommend- ing the practice of raising young plants every year, as they produce the best quality flowers for exhibition purposes. ‘This seems to be the proper time for one to set about affording cultural directions. Propagation. — ‘There are at least two methods of increasing Dahhas, either of which may be adopted at will. he first to be considered, and undoubtedly the better of the two, is from cuttings taken in the spring. ‘These are secured by bringing the stools from the store and placing them in some convenient position in a house, where they may be just covered with soil; thiS is DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN. i) ( TIFUL MAUVE COLOURED CACTUS DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN. ee page S89.) FIG. 31—THE BEAU 99 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. kept moist, and with the warmth of the structure at that period | of the year growths push quickly from many invisible eyes (more | correctly buds), and these are taken as cuttings. Many growers | staunchly advocate the discarding of the first shoots which are | produced, on the ground that they are so sappy that good plants | cannot be hoped for from them. Some of the earliest growths are by no means gross, and will : certainly give satisfactory results if they are properly looked after. | If it can be seen that the shoot is sappy, throw it away ; but if } it is firm, retain and use it. Each cutting should be given a small pot, using a fibrous loam, | with a little coarse sand to ensure free passage of water. Very little drainage is necessary, and short stubby shoots cut squarely beneath a joint should be chosen. If the stools are placed in heat § at the beginning of March, and the house is warm, growths § 3 or 4 inches Jong will be produced in about ten or twelve | days; or, if these do not appear suitable, they may be removed | and the second crop of shoots secured. | After insertion, in the course of which it is imperative to see that the base of the cutting rests upon the base of the hole, the pots should be plunged in a bed that has a bottom heat of about 65°, with their tops as close as possible, without touching, to the glass above them. Neglect of the observance of this latter point | generally results in the growth becoming leggy and weak, instead of remaining sturdy and strong. Shading must be employed in sunny weather, and while many recommend a permanent wash of whiting and milk, we prefer to have movable material, to be used # when necessary and not at other times. Plenty of air is essential at this stage, and the leaves must be lightly sprinkled when required. When it is seen that root action _ is well on the way, take the plants to a cooler structure and prepare to place them in 3-inch pots, using a compost of best yellow loam, leaf mould, the refuse from a Mushroom bed, and sand in pro- portion to the retentiveness of the loam. Exercise the utmost care not to break the tender roots, and when the work is completed stand the plants in a warm frame or a greenhouse, close to the glass in either case. } Th2 second method by which increase can be effected is by division of the stools after these have been started, as suggested for the production of cuttings. The division must be done with a view to having a growth to each piece, and if potted singly and | treated as advised for cuttings they will make good plants in due course. One other means by which plants may be raised is deserving of brief reference, as by its aid we secure our new varieties. This is from seeds, but the process is too tedious and has to be carried ont on such an extensive scale if anything like good results are desired, that it is rather beyond the ken of the amateur, who is — wise in leaving it to the professional Dahlia grower, from whom | 93 ION. S PROPAGATING DAHLIAS BY DIVI SPN UJIM UMOLO “Of UMOLO THOTT poyoRjop szoo.e oyt]-19qny “f + uoIstArp aodoadutr ‘9 “pucg UMOID “A 5 400K OMI[-Loqny “p ?pnq YIM J0quyz Yous “WMOLD YSNOIYA UOTSTAIp wodoad ‘eq "M194s PjO 9 S spnq YIM UMOTO ‘q f SZOOT OxIT-19Qny “DM + 39048JoO" AYSoy SW ‘NOISIAIG AX SVITHVA ONILVOVdOUd—'sé “Nid SAUOM MAT NI SONTH NIVId—WOLLOVId TWINOLOId ——S> PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 94, SVITHVA ONILIVYN AGNV ‘ONILNVId ‘ONILLOd—'t’ ‘91d ‘ourqggod yo yydop ‘z amnesty ‘& fuols podeys “IOPYM ‘Ww f(A) YOOYS UT AND ‘a ?1oqnz, surjuvsjd vw Suyjeas ‘pe *{LOs JO vovpans ‘2 ¢ png 4 3sloopjyno pojuvyd uotsiarp ‘Ty “toqVM Los vovds ‘s fpnq ‘ub ; pouoqzloys toqny ‘b Sytros ‘d : OHBUIBAP ‘oO : poyjod UOISIAIp ‘FT "png YIM UMOLO JO suOTy -10d “w fsueqny “ww : uoresed -O1d OJ poytuvdes yooysyoor ‘+ SHONHUHA LY SAUOM MOT NI SLININ NIVId—'AOILOVUd IVINOLOId Vie wl are a ter) oe Lolth ess) ¢ ‘a ¢ cies 4,5 i “Che, igs: it | PLANTING DAHLIAS. 95 the few meritorious varieties (in comparison with the number raised) can always be procured. ‘The seeds should be sown in a warm house in March, in boxes or pots according to convenience, potted singly as soon as they are large enough, and planted out when the weather is favourable in June. They are extremely floriferous, and from a good strain a gem may be occasionally secured, Management of Young Plants.—With the placing in the 3-inch pots of the rooted cuttings the work of the grower is not finished, as it is now his object to keep the plants moving steadily forward until the period for planting comes along. It may be necessary to transfer the plants into larger pots, and if so a similar compost to that already recommended should be used. In any case, if they are in a greenhouse, get them into a frame as soon as possible, particularly if one with a little bottom heat is at command, because here it is an easy matter to keep the plants in progress, and ensure them retaining their hardness and stoutness by constantly admitting fresh air. To raise fine cuttings and then to spoil them by coddling, as there is no doubt is often done, is worse than a pity—it is folly—and must be guarded against by all possible means. Planting Out.—The soil is best prepared some time in advance of planting, to allow the food that has been put into it to become amalgamated and to permit the ground to settle down. The best natural manure at command should be incor- porated with the ground, working it where it is possible to do so into the second spit, and having an upper layer of pure loam, so as to prevent the roots coming in actual contact with the manure. To economise manure, the land should be prepared in stations 4 feet apart all ways, in order to allow each plant to have the fullest benefit of ight and air. The first thing to do is to insert the stake, and it must be one that is not only of good height but very strong, as . from it all ties will be taken for the support of the branches. When the plants are approaching to full growth, it will be necessary to place about four other stakes in position, but this does not warrant the cultivator in having a weak central one. Then, when the proper time arrives, the plants must be put out, placing them comparatively close to the stake, and attaching a loose tie at once in case of a quickly rising heavy wind. Make the soil firm about the roots, but do not go so far as to stamp upon it, as people have been seen to-do before now. The object of placing the food in the second spit is to prevent the roots getting into it too soon, as they certainly will do if it is on the surface. Grossness of growth at all stages is undesirable, but particularly when the plants are very young, as it is difficult, if not impossible, to persuade them to grow out of it, and the blooms come with serious defects which render them quite unfit for exhibition purposes, and not of material value for the adornment of the garden. By the time the plants are 96 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. firmly established in the soil the roots will have found the special food, and the growths will be so numerous and so vigorous that they will be in a fit condition for its reception. When the plants are in their most active state the amount of food that they call for is enormous, and their wants must be supplied or the results will not come up to our expectations or ambitions. In respect of the best kinds of feod for Dahlias, one is not met with any serious difficulties, as the plants are sufficiently | accommo- dating to appreciate practically anything that is good, provided it is afforded in reason and variety. ‘To keep applying the same thing is certainly injudicious, as the plants tire of it, and do not derive the benefit that they should do. The time of planting is a very important point, as upon it may rest the difference between success and failure. Let the fact that the Dahlia is a half-hardy plant be ever borne in mind, or in our haste to get the plants in their permanent quarters we may put them out before danger from late frosts 1s passed. The results of this practice are often disastrous, as it does not require a very hard frost to do irremediable damage. Early in June is the most general time, but even then a sharp look-out should be kept, so that if frost appear imminent protective material may be instantly placed about the plants. This close observation should be maintained until the third week of June at least, and ought really never to be relaxed. Reducing the Growths.—One sometimes sees it recommended to retain all the growths a plant may produce, but it is rarely indeed that this policy is wise, as, even for garden decoration, the results are infinitely more satisfactor y when a certain reduction is made. Pompon varieties differ so materially from the Show and Fancy sections that they may for a moment be left out of consideration. | ~The ideal number of growths to retain when the grower has the | exhibition of blooms as his primary object, is four for Show and | Fancy sections, the same, or perhaps one more, for the beautifui | Cactus varieties, seven for the singles, and practically all that are produced in the case of the Pompons. The reason that more shoots are retained in the two latter sections is simply because reduction spells size, and in neither of these is this by any means a recommendation on the exhibition table. The selected growths should be chosen well down on the main stem, and these again will demand pinching, but not until they have made substantial progress. After the secondary breaks are secured, all shoots springing from them must be rigidly removed. Staking.—Hand in hand with the thinning must run the staking, and uuless this is properly carried out it is useless to hope for the production of blooms sufficiently meritorious for placing upon the exhibition table. The constant swaying about to which the wind will inevitably subject them will either blow out the growths themselves, or so injure the flowers by bruising as to render them worthless. We have already got the principal support into position, PROTECTING DAHLIAS. 97 and round this must be arr ayed other strong stakes, corresponding in “number with the growths, each one being furnished with a support of its own. ‘To these the shoots are attached, firmly, yet so freely as to permit the shoot to move about and expand as the plant attains age. If it should become necessary to remove one of the stakes when srowth is well advanced, let the operation be carried out with the utmost care, and put the new support in the hole left by the removal of the first one. This obviates the probability of damage accruing. Timing Blooms.—In this les, to a very large degree, the cultivator’s success in the econ arena, as males aE can manage this correctly he can never rely upon having his flowers in at the required time. It is one of the several operations in gardening that experience in a particular soil and district will teach, aided by the closest observation and persistent diary making, so as to have a record of progress from year to year. Until this experience has been gained (and the wise man will continue it afterwards) several buds in different stages should be chosen for retention, in order to guard, as far as possible, against an error. At this stage the greatest worry will arise from the prevalence of earwigs, whose faculty for selecting the finest buds upon which to exercise their power of destruction approaches to the miraculous. Of these mention will be made in due course. Protecting Blooms. —Following hard upon the timing in importance, as regards exhibition produce, is the protection of the flowers as well from the effects of the weather as from the ravages of earwigs and other pests. It used to bea very common practice in some parts of the country, and probably still is in certain districts, to enclose each bud in a bag made of soft muslin, this being with a view to keeping earwigs at bay. But it is not this aspect of the case that will be dealt “with at this juncture ; it is rather the protection of the developed, or nearly so, bloom from atmospheric effects that must receive attention. The shades specially made and sold for this purpose are the best things to employ, and, though they may be rather expensive at the outset, they must be procured, and will, with reasonable care, last for a considerable period. Home-made contrivances are frequently utilised by growers, and will be found to answer admirably, provided they are properly constructed with knowledge of the form of the flower and the particular object in their use. Those made with canvas sides strained on to a wire frame are probably the most useful form to employ, but it should be regarded as essential that they have a movable cover, or one of glass and another of wood. The idea of thus providing two tops is to have at hand a dark or a light shade for use, according to discretion, as while some flowers bleach in the sunlight and others burn, still more demand brilliant light before their richest hues can be brought out ; afterwards these, too, May | require protection. Again, the protectors will perform a valuable service in the timing of the flowers, for when skilfully employed they will accelerate or retard a bloom to an appreciable degree. it G 98 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. is usually desirable to have the shades in position some twelve or fifteen days prior to the date at which the flowers are required. The utmost care must be taken that the bloom does not move in the protector, or the outer florets will be ruined by the friction. Dahlias for Garden Adornment.—The brilliant effects that | can be produced in the garden by the different sections of the Dahlia warrant the gardener in according the best attention in his power to the plants. The miserable examples which are often seen are not worthy the name of Dahlias, and have little or no resemblance to thoroughly well grown plants. It is not to be supposed that the gardener with his multifarious duties, or the amateur with his varied loves and limited accommodation, can achieve the success | that crowns the efforts of the specialist ; nor would it be possible for either of these to imitate the elaborate details to which the enthusiast subjects his plants: each must work according to his conveniences, and it is quite certain that all the labour that can be given to the Dahlia quarters will be most generously repaid in the infinitely greater number of vastly superior flowers that the plants will produce. As far as possible, the producer should adopt the suggestions that have already been laid down for the development of exhibition blooms, modifying the methods at any point where they are too advanced or the conveniences at command will not permit of their adoption. Many growers leave the stools in the ground from one year’s end to the other, but the system has little to recom- mend it beyond its unquestioned simplicity. If the stools are well covered with ashes or other suitable protective material, they will pass unscathed through a winter of normal severity, and produce an abundance of flowers in the following year, but these will lack many things that go to the making of a really good Dahlia. - When this system is adopted the grower should reduce the number of growths that push to about five, as these will bring almost as many blooms as a greater number, and they will certainly be of far better quality than when the plants are allowed to grow in the guise of a thicket. It will be necessary, too, to apply even more generous applications of liquid manure than when the plants are put in fresh land, as the roots of the plants in the previous season will have drawn out immense quantities of nutriment. With a view to aiding in the feeding, it will be found advantageous to remove a few inches of the top soil, putting in its place some rich compost, or failing this using the depression thus made as a saucer that will aid in conducting liquid nourishment directly down to the roots. Those, and their name is legion, who replant the old stools every year may improve matters very considerably by the reduction of the number of growths, precisely as has been recommended in the foregoing paragraphs. The stools ought to be removed from the place of storage and put in slight warmth, so as to have them in active progress before they reach the open quarters. In other GROWING DAHLIAS IN POTS. 99 respects the procedure may be on as nearly the lines laid down for exhibition plants as ways and means will allow. Another course may be followed, and with proper management it will give wonderfully fine returns. This is to divide the stools into single tubers, pot these in 5-inch pots of good compost, keep them in a warm house with the soil always just moist, and when the time for ‘planting arrives put them out at a distance of 4 feet asunder in all directions. If the soil has been made rich in the manner suggested, and the plants are treated in all respects similarly to those from cuttings, they will give blooms of almost equal merit, that may be drawn upon for the show or be taken advantage of for garden adornment alone. Dahlias in Pots.—One other phase of culture remains to be dealt with, and this is the practice of growing a few plants eatirely in pots. Endeavours have been made of late years to popularise this mode of treatment, but it cannot be said that the results have proved very encouraging to the promoters. The fact is that Dahlias are essentially garden flowers, and, though a certain number of people may care to have some plants for flowering in their greenhouses, it is unlikely that they will ever have any great vogue for this purpose. [From the specimens one _ sees occasionally, it is obvious that they resent in no slight manner the restricted area in which the roots are working, and it seems to be well-nigh impossible to keep the plants from becoming drawn and carrying thin, pale foliage that does not look as if it could do much service in the building up of fine blooms. In setting out to grow these plants in pots, the general principles that govern their culture in the ordinary way may well be made to apply. That is to say, there must be the same care in propagating from firm cuttings in the spring, and the same incessant attention to the plants from the time that they pass out of the 3-inch pots in which the cuttings were inserted until they have produced their crop of flowers. Because they are growing in pots must not be taken as justifying forcing treatment, for this will be followed by almost instant collapse. Bring the plants gradually forward until they are practically at the point of flowering, when a very little persuasion may be resorted to if it be absolutely necessary; but even then it will be accompanied by a modicum of risk. Watering must at all periods be most carefully attended to, as it is imperative that the plants be kept constantly, though slowly, moving onwards Needless to say, with such gross feeding plants as Dahlias, it will be essential to supply special food of the finest possible peality, and in quantities increasing with the age and vigour of the plants. At all stages the plants must be kept as near to the roof glass of the structure in which they are growing as possible, so as to reduce to a minimum the probability of legginess. If the leaves are far from the glass, they become attenuated, and, as with other plants, cannot perform their important functions in an adequate | of G 100 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. manner, with the natural consequence that the appearance of the plants and the quality of the flowers are seriously prejudiced. Enemies of Dahlias.—There can be no two opinions as to what is the most inveterate enemy of exhibition Dahlias. It is the earwig, for it will spoil a bloom in one night, and that bloom, as has already been hinted, is sure to be the finest in the garden, especially when one is explaining to one’s friends the reason why one’s stand failed to carry off some coveted award. For a wiliness that is absolutely uncanny, commend us to the earwig. We place our traps with the utmost care, go round the plants after darx a dealing out destruction to every earwig we can find, and retire to rest comfortably assuring ourselves that our blooms are safe until the © morning, at any rate. But when morning comes our confidence in our ability to cope with the earwig is roughly shattered, for the one bloom needed to ensure success in the great class has gone to ruin However, these things add sting to our attacks, and we start forth with renewed determination that when next the earwig comes in our way we will exterminate him root and branch. Trapping and hand picking are our only resources, and they must be persisted in until the blooms are actually on the exhibition table, when we may feel reasonably confident that the danger is passed. Some deluded individuals think that placing troughs of water all round the Dahlia quarters will ensure immunity from attack, but they overlook the fact that the earwig can and will fly, so that their labour is absolutely in vain. As slugs want everything that the gardener most prizes, it is superfluous to say that they want the Dahlias, and if they can gain access to them when young they will destroy all chances of success in the show tent. Keep the surroundings of the plants scrupulously clean at all periods, as slugs want hiding places, and it ~ should not be one of the duties of the grower to provide them by having rubbish and litter about the cherished plants. Beyond this, baiting with anything that will attract them and searching at night are the only remedies, or more correctly preventives, for there can be no redress when the plant is spoiled. Green fly will attack the plants at the tips of the shoots, but a pinch of snuff, some tobacco powder dusted upon them, and forcible evening sprayings with clear or soft-soapy water will generally prove efficacious. In all cases it is essential that our attacks be persistent, as intermittent attention is worse than useless by placing us in a position of false security. HUCHARIS CULTURE. 101 Chapter XXVII.—€rvthroniums. ~ PopuLaRLy known as Dog’s Tooth Violets, these are most delightful bulbous rooted plants for the rock garden or the border of miscel- laneous subjects in the flower, vegetable, or fruit gardens. They are not big growing by any means, and there is ever present a danger that they may be overwhelmed by their grosser neighbours unless care is taken that this does not occur. When once the bulbs have become firmly established—and no difficulty should be experienced in this direction—the growth will be sufficiently vigorous for the plants to take care of themselves. Like so many of our most charming bulbous plants, Erythroniums are admirably adapted for culture in the grass, provided this can remain uncut until the leafage has performed its proper functions. Selection of Erythroniums. Dens-canis, purple, pink, Hartwegii, yellow, early and white; there are flowering. several varieties, of Howellii, yellow. which Japonicum and Johnstonu, red and pink; Sibiricum are probably very beautiful. the finest. Nuttallianum, golden grandifiorum, yellow. yellow. revolutum Bolanderi, white, Chapter XXVIIL—€Eucharises. No genus of bulbous plant with which we are acquainted offers so fine an opportunity to the successful cultivator for wagging a finger when pointing the moral at an unsuccessful brother. What passages _ of arms there are at meetings of gardeners’ societies when Eucharis culture is the subject under discussion! Separate the wheat of common sense from the chaff of impassioned rhetoric, and it is found that the man who wields the water-pot holds the secret of success in his hand. ee Eucharis flowers, like the poor, are always with us. They adorn the font, attend the wedding, and if we have been so - fortunate as to make a few friends, it is probable some of these pure and fragrant flowers will go with us on our last journey to | God’s Acre. 102 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Eucharis Lilies are stove plants, provided with large, deep green, broad-bladed leaves, and yielding tall spikes of lovely blooms usually twice a year. ‘Three crops a year can be obtained from the same plants, but it is a sweating process, and ultimately ends in failure. Mellow loam, with a fourth part of peat, or leaf soil, and some coarse sand added, makes a suitable compost. Good drainage is absolutely essential. The size of pot used may vary with the taste or needs of the grower, but as a guide to the requirements of Eucharises, it may be said that six bulbs will find accommodation in a 10-inch pot. Never re-pot Eucharises except to save them from starvation; liquid manure and top-dressings will keep plants healthy for a good while after the pots have become well filled with roots. After flowering, Eucharises should be rested by a reduction of the water supply, and a temperature 5° or 10° lower than that in which they have been growing; but it is necessary to add that “drying off” or “cool treatment” are alike productive of failure. The temperature for Eucharises should never fall below 60°. The bugbear of Eucharis growers is the “ mite,” a tiny insect, | Rhizoglyphus echinopus by name, which infests bulbs that have suffered from some error of treatment. The mites can be killed by soaking the bulbs for fifteen minutes in a mixture made of + 1b. of potassium sulphide dissolved in 3 gallons of water heated to 115°. After their bath, put the bulbs on a sunny shelf in the stove to dry, giving them no other shade than a sheet of thin paper affords. Pot the bulbs after three weeks of dry treatment, using small pots and sandy soil; plunge them where there is a moderate bottom heat, and plenty of moisture in the atmosphere, but of direct watering there must be none until both roots and leaves have made considerable progress. Selection of Eucharises. candida, white; very Burfordiensis and Stevensi pretty, but smaller in are hybrids; the former all its parts than grandi- has white flowers, and flora. the latter has also white grandiflora, white; in flowers, but with a dis- every way the best tinct yellow corona, Eucharis. The Amazon- ica of most gardens is correctly grandiflora, as en re p Race rer” ate: PI Se re ee ee ncn LE A NEW FREESIA. 103 Chapter XXIX.—freesias. Ric and varied as is the flora of South Africa, it is doubtful whether it contains a more beautiful, more fragrant, or more useful class of plants than the elegant Freesias. Not so very many years Photo: Cassell and Co., Lid. - FIG. 34.—FREESIA AUREA. « avo he was accounted a clever gardener who could grow and flower Freesias well year by year; but many amateurs soon found that strong heat was not at all necessary to secure the most satisfactory results. Failures with Freesias may generally be traced to one or both of two mistakes—namely, a too free use of water in the early stages of growth, and failure to fully appreciate the advantages of thoroughly drying and baking the bulbs. Let us descend to details—the Freesias are worth it. Five- or 104 =96 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 6-inch pots are quite large enough, and will accommodate ten or twelve bulbs. Place the bulbs 1 inch deep in a mixture of 2 parts loam, 1 part each of leaf soil and dried cow manure, with some sand added. Pot up the earliest batch in August, and continue the work at intervals according to the supply and demand. It is common to plunge the pots, but we succeed better without. If the soil is dry, sufficient water to just moisten it must be given before the operation of plunging is performed, but if it is moderately moist scarcely any water will be needed until growth is 8 or 4 inches high. At this stage a little more warmth may be given, and water will be needed frequently. Freesias have a strong dislike for a high temperature when growing, and any attempt to force them will end in failure. Provide the flower stems with a little support, but the lighter and more unobtrusive this is the better. _ The next important point to consider is that of resting. Decrease the supply of water directly the flowers have faded, and when the leaves turn yellow cease watering. If in your greenhouse there is a shelf on which the summer sun shines with roasting force, then there need be no further search for an ideal spot for Freesias. In such a position they will dry and rest without any attention, and will be ready for potting about August aurea, yellow (see p. 108). refracta Leichtlini, prim- refracta, white and orange, rose yellow, with orange refracta alba, white; the blotch. best of the Freesias. Chapter XXX.—fritillarias. HERE we have a family whose charms are such as grow steadily upon the cultivator, until beauty can be seen in every part of the flower. To the lover of the garish they will possess no attraction whatever, as theirs is a beauty that must be sought for. True, in the well- known Crown Imperials, with their tiered whorls of leaves and flowers, one has scarcely to look to see it, so striking is the habit of the plants ; but in the majority we must perforce lift up the bloom— whose form is that of the head of a snake, and has given rise to the - common name of Snake’s Head Lily—to appreciate the charms that lie within, and which the plant is far too modest to show for itself. The full charm of the Snake’s Head is seen when the bulbs are planted in grass, among the blades of which the nodding blooms on their slender, arched pedicels, swaying in the gentlest breeze that blows, are indescribably delightful. Many sorts become naturalised, and form clumps of considerable extent in the course of a few years. CROWN IMPERIALS. 105 FIG. 35.—THE CROWN IMPERIAL (FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS). Selection of Fritillarias. armena, purple; there are red and yellow varieties, _ aurea, yellow. citrina, green. Imperialis, yellow; there are numerous varieties, including some with silver and gold varie- gated leafage. Six of the best are aurea mar- ginata, argentea mar- ginata, Aurora, Crown- upon-Crown, rubra, and Sulphurine. latifolia, red. lutea, yellow. Meleagris, spotted purple; several fine forms. pallidifiora, pale yellow. Persica, violet brown. pudica, yellow. Pyrenaica, purple. recurva, orange scarlet; this is very beautiful, but somewhat difficult to es- tablish in many gardens, 106 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter XXXI.—6ladioli. NOTWITHSTANDING the superb exhibits of these gorgeously beautiful flowers that we occasionally see at shows, it cannot be said that — they are so éxtensively cultivated as might be wished. This seems to be especially the case in the South of England, for they are _ undoubtedly more frequently seen in the Midlands and in Scotland, where they are magnificently represented in many gardens. Knowing how finely they thrive “across the Border,” the inexperienced are prone to think that they will only succeed in the cooler climate which they there enjoy. That they like the soil and the climatal conditions none will dispute, but it is equally irrefutable that they will flourish almost, if not quite, everywhere in England, if their requirements are assiduously studied. — We find them in Cambridgeshire, in Somersetshire, and in the Isle of Thanet, and in each case they are as near to perfection as anyone need wish to see; these places are widely separated, and differ substantially in every respect, thus showing what can be done when the work is set about in a businesslike way, and with a determination to achieve success. The Gladiolus family may be said, as far as general culture is concerned, to be divided into five sections, of which the principal is that known as the Gandavensis, which is said to have originated from G. psittacinus and G. oppositiflorus ; this comprises many varieties of brilliant beauty, and some of them are very easily grown. Then there is the Lemoinei section, which is of hybrid origin, and contains some remarkable combinations of colours. From America we have received, though it was raised in Germany, another hybrid division named Childsu, after its introducer; the members of it are strong growing, and very handsome in suitable positions. In addition to these there are the Nanceianus section and the species with their varieties, several of which are invaluable. A few Gladioli are grown in pots, but the majority do not respond readily to this method of culture, and should be placed in the garden. Selections of Gladioll. Hybrids of Gandavensis. Althea, orange red, flaked Dalila, brightrose, blotched crimson, violet blotch. and striped white. Baroness Burdett-Coutts, Decima, rosy white, edged lilac, tinged rose purple. crimson. Casilda, pale yellow, rosy Dora Craven, white, car- red blotch, mine blotch. Colada, salmon red, white Dr. Bailly, scarlet, blotched blotch, carmine on whiteground, SELECTIONS OF GLADIOLI. 107 Hybrids of Gandavensis (continued). Ella, lilac, shaded rose, Tolanthe, reddish pink, crimson blotch. lowersegments feathered Elvira, rose white, flaked crimson, white, centre saffron. Lauretta, white, shaded Fiametta, rich rose salmon. pink, flaked rose. Flambeau, orange red, Martial, crimson, flaked edged crimson, white scarlet. . lines and blotch. Phineas, carmine, white Formosa, satin rose, car- blotch. mine stripe, white blotch, Pyramide, orange rose, Glaive de Feu, salmon centre amber. rose, ivory white blotch. Rosalind, pale rose, flaked Grand Rouge, _ scarlet crimson. crimson, Sorcerer, salmon _ red, Hetty Dean, white, purple striped and_ spotted blotch. maroon. Iona, crimson, purple blotch, centre white. It should be understood that the newer varieties of G. Gandavensis, such as are utilised for exhibition purposes, are expensive, because the stock of corms is limited ; those included in this selection provide very fine quality at a reasonable price. Selection of Lemoinei. Baron Joseph Hulot, deep Lamarck, crimson violet blue. yellow stripes. E, V. Halluck, pale yellow, M. Leveque,velvet crimson. crimson blotches. Mare Micheli, pale lilac, Eclipse, pale lilac, black lower segments violet. red, blotches. Mephistopheles, cinnabar Ethiopie, violet red, black- red, black and sulphur ish blotches, blotches. General de Nansouty, blue, Rosa Bonheur, pale porce- violet red _ blotches, lain, purplish blue yellow edges. blotches, Jane Dieulafoy, creamy Senateur Volland, blue, white, maroon blotches. violet blotch, yellow stripe, Selection of Childsit, Adolphe Close, slate blue, Columbia, scarlet, flaked mottled white and crim- and spotted purple. Dr. Sellow, carmine rose, white bands, William Falconer, pink, mottled crimson. son. Ben Hur, brick red,spotted — crimson. Bessie Tanner, salmon rose, blotched white. Selection of Nanceicanus Varieties. This section is of the same origin as QG. Childsii. Speaking of these two divisions, Mr. J. Burrell, Cambridge, who is one of the leading authorities on this genus, said: “ For all practical purposes these (Nanceianus) and the Childsii might be bracketed together. They are both derived from the species Saundersii; they both 108 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. have its bad faults of only opening two or three flowers on the | spike before the others fade, and have the same tendency of the | flowers to face downwards. The Nanceianus have the better | colours, but there are no whites or yellows yet in either section.” FIG. 364—A VARIETY OF GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS. Colonel Gillon, rose, large Peau Rouge, coppery white blotch,purple dots. salmon rose, marbled G. A. Kuyp, carmine red, brown and yellow. blotched and _ pencilled President Chandon, ver-. purple on white. milion, blotched sulphur Georges Frick, crimson, yellow. blotched brown, pen- Tsarine, lilac rose, carmine cilled white, blotch, white edge. that they possess any very material value as GLADIOLI FOR BEDDING. 109 Species and Hybrids of Gladioli. Though these are comparatively numerous, it cannot be said garden plants. An exception is seen in the beautiful white variety of the hybrid G. Colvillei, which is universally cultivated in pots, both under ordinary and forcing treatment; it is an invaluable plant for the purposes indicated, while it may also be utilised in the border if such be desired. Others that are of substantial assistance to the _ grower for pot culture are embodied in the subjoined list, and are marked with an asterisk :— *Adonis, orange scarlet, white blotch. atroviolacea, purple, Brenchleyensis, — scarlet. . Byzantinus, rosy purple. cardinalis, scarlet, flaked white. *Colvillei, rose purple, striped white. 2 *Colvillei The Bride, white. communis in variety. *delicatissimus (Blushing Bride), . white, rosy crimson blotch. *Fairy Queen, rosy white, excellent for forcing. brilliant insignis, reddish purple. *Mary Anderson, blush white, flushed rose. Mauve Beauty, pale lilac, Non Plus Ultra, deep rose, shaded scarlet. oppositiflorus, white. Prince Albert, deep salmon rose. psittacinus, yellow and red. Queen Victoria, deep red. *Rosy Gem, pale rose, white blotch. Saundersii, scarlet and white. *Salmon Queen, salmon. floribundus, citron. Gladioli for Bedding. When it is not desired to grow the choicest of the hybrids for general bedding purposes, the following will be found of considerable value, as they produce bold flowers of distinct colours :— Beethoven, delicate rose, Lord Byron, carmine, Brenchleyensis, brilliant blotched white. scarlet. Magnificent, white, flushed Cybele, satin rose, flamed carmine. carmine. Walmer, glowing rosy scariet, PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 110 FIG. 37.—GLADIOLUS COLVILLEI THE BRIDE. 111 ‘goSpom “q. § possvd si oyvys YOY YSnoaryy Soult pooM tO yezout “HY ¢ xoq “W is ‘ayeqs ‘qf $4moay ssvpo yg xoq Sy “buagoaq0ud ‘% ‘gouonbosuod Ul yuo (Vy) Woys puL ‘ozV] 004 poxY. (q) 94S ‘Hwayngs ‘T TIOIGVID DNILOALOUd GNV YNIMVLS—'8é “SIs G € 7 ——= STAKING AND PROTECTING GLADIOLI. +) ‘i Sy > PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 112 *sjood JO spuse Woy ,, UMBdS,, 10 ‘sTIqinq ‘q "ULLOD JO OSV WOAF STOUIOD ‘9 ‘SurArp wi op yvyy syzoo.r *f £ wLtod plo Jo Sureutoa 6a ¢ umvds,, 10 spiq(uq ‘p :osvq ye sjewa0d % !wu4100 ‘¢ doy Jo UvIyAOd ‘M + 1OQWOAON UL PoyfIL SV SISUBABPULYH SNTOIpe[H Jo uLwoo fy TIOIGV1IO SNISVAAYONI GNV YNILATI—6e “Old "‘SauOM MU NI SUNIH NIVId—AOILOVad IVINOLOId 113 PROPAGATING GLADIOLL ‘umeds wor syuvtd sunodk % f poatoAo0d Aygavd umevds ‘y § uorjisod ut umeds yyra [ftp “6 ssuryuvpd jo epout “nT “SUILOJS IO} POULULLIY WLLOD “Ef TTOIGVIN YNNOA ONILNVId—"0? “OId ‘SGUOM MAT NI SLNIH NIVId—MOILOVad TVINOLOTd WN “WS \\ ~~ 114 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Chapter XXXil—Gloxinias MopErN Gloxinias are descendants from Sinningia speciosa, hoiti- culturally a useless plant as compared with the valuable race of which itis the parent. The Gloxinias have literally been raised from the dust. When first the old florists produced them the flowers were pendulous, and each one had to be separately tied and staked that the plant might make a presentable appearance. Gradually the bell- shaped flowers were raised to a horizontal position, and their stems were at the same time strengthened. Now we have erect flowers in all the best strains, and it is not necessary to give any artificial support unless the plants are for exhibition or have to travel some distance. There are three distinct methods of increasing Gloxinias—by seeds, by leaf cuttings, and by division of the rounded, tuberous root-stock. The latter is an easy method, practised in spring, directly new growth begins. For leaf cuttings it is best to select fully developed leaves of an approved variety, cut through the midrib and principal veins with a sharp knife, and peg them down on some moist sandy soil. Young tubers will soon form at the severed parts, and when large enough must be potted: A recommendable compost for tubers consists of 2 parts of fibrous loam, 1 part of leaf mould or peat, and sufficient sand to keep the whole porous. For seedlings and young plants generally it is advisable to increase the leaf mould or peat and reduce the quantity of loam. In the matter of temperature a mean of 65° is correct for the summer, but in the winter growing plants ought not to be subjected to less than 55° even at night. For resting plants a minimum of 45° will suffice, but 5° higher is safer. It is quite possible within six months from seed sowing to secure a splendid display of Gloxinias. The way to go about the business is to sow seeds in one or more of the first three months of the year according to the demand and the date at which it is desired to have plants in flower. Provide the seed pot with ample drainage, and fill it to within 4 inch of the rim with fine sandy soil; after pressing the soil firmly, water it through a fine rose, and when the water has passed away sow the seed thinly, cover the pot with a sheet of glass, put thin paper on the glass, and stand all together in a house or pit where a moist atmosphere and a temperature of 70° are maintained. Trans- fer the seedlings to other pots or pans as they become large enough to move, taking care not to disturb the tiny ones that lag behind. Three-inch pots will be large enough for the next move, and from thence to 5- or 6-inch pots will be sufficient for the next shift, and in these the plants will flower. up on a well drained site, and planting deferred until early sprirg. Six inches is a good depth to plant. Wherever climate and circum- stances admit planting is best done in the autumn; a little Bracken, litter, or Heather laid on the bed keeps the bulbs perfectly safe, but will not be necessary In many gardens. The growth of Montbretias closely resembles that of a small Gladiolus, but the spikes are branched, reach a height of about 2 feet, and beara profusion of neat and brilliant blooms over a long period. Nor must the pot culture of Montbretias be omitted, ora valuable conservatory plant will be lost. Grown in the same way as Ixias and similar subjects, but with five bulbs in each 6-inch pot, they provide a pleasing decoration at a very small cost. Selection of Montbretias. Brilliant, orange scarlet. crocosmiflora, scarlet, orange, and yellow. A hybrid between Crocos- mia aurea and Tritonia Pottsii. Drap d’Or, chrome yellow, large. Etoile de Feu, vermilion, lemon centre, red out- - side. Gerbe d’ Or, golden yellow, splendid flowers. Germania, orange yellow. Pottsii, orange and scarlet ; strictly a Tritonia, and one of the parents of garden Montbretias. Rayon @’Or, rich yellow, marked brown. Soleil Couchant, golden yellow, dwarf. Solfaterre, bright yellow. Chapter XE&IL-—IMRuscaris. Iz is presumed that most readers have at some period of their lives seen a few acres of Bluebells growing together, and have thought that in its particular scheme of colour nothing could excel such a display. But that thought only proves a lack of acquaintance with some of the Muscaris, and notably with that exquisitely beautiful one so appropriately named conicum Heavenly Blue. This is so much the finest member of the genus that if only one can be grown this should be chosen. If you have not seen $ acre of this charming hardy bulb in full bloom about the same time that Daffodils are aglow, or a hedge bank smothered with its sturdy, clustering spikes of azure blooms, either of which you may see at Barrs, or a bed of some early flowering shrub carpeted with it, as at Kew, then you have missed one or more of the most delightful sights the “merry spring” affords. It is by no means an expensive subject, and when once established it MUSCARIS AND NERINES. 135 may be. freely increased by the removal and transplantation of offsets in early autumn, which is the proper time for lifting and removal, when this is either necessary or desirable. Taken as a class, the Muscaris are not at all particular as to soul, though they appreciate a good sandy loam as well as most things. As regards position they are equally accommodating ; in addition to situations already indicated, they should tind a place on the rockery, in the flower border, or among low grass. But lest anything that has been said may frighten some bulb loving brother, we hasten to add that if he cannot grow the Muscaris by the 4 acre then by all means grow them by the half hundred, and _ rather than not have any at all obtain half a dozen to start with, for it is perfectly certain that, like Oliver Twist he will, within a year, be asking for more. | Lest any reader should be at all puzzled by the dissociation’ of popular names from scientific ones, let it be stated that the Grape Hyacinth is botryoides; the Feather Hyacinth comosum monstrosum ; the Musk Hyacinth moschatum (but it is too shy in flowering to suit most folk), and the Starch Hyacinth racemosum. Selection of Musearis. f botryoides, blue. comosum, blue. ‘There is conicum, deep blue. Several a rare white form of varieties, of which the one this; monstrosum is a | named Heavenly Blue is pretty and interesting | by far the best variety. variety. racemosum, dark blue. WNarcissi, sce DAFFODILS. Chapter XLIi.—Rerines, ALTHOUGH there is a general agreement that Nerines, including Guernsey Lilies, are easily grown, it is nevertheless a curious fact that ' while in some gardens they merely exist one may see splendidly _ flowered specimens in the front window of a neighbouring cottage. | The secret of success lies in the water pot. Water Nerines according | to requirements when they are either flowering or producing and maturing their leaves, but directly the leaves turn yellow withhold water until flower spikes appear the following season. Nerines are all too frequently killed by mistaken kindness. But once the true principles underlying their successful culture are understood and acted upon, then all is plain sailing. Directly a good batch | of Nerines has been grown, the self-satisfied grower sets himself up | as an authority and with affected superiority wonders why in th | world any one fails with “such easily grown plants.” ; | It is usual for,the bulb merchants to supply thoroughly matured Nerine bulbs early in the autumn, and as these will soon come 136 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. into flower they must be potted as quickly as possible. Rich, sandy loam forms an ideal material in which to place the bulbs, but if the loam be heavy it may be lightened by the addition of some leaf soil, while if it be poor add some thoroughly decom- posed cow manure. Into 4-, 6-, 8-inch pots put one, two, or three bulbs respectively, remembering always that Nerines do not like to be over-potted. In this connection it may be added that the larger pots are the best to use, as they permit the bulbs to remain longer undisturbed. Give little water to newly potted bulbs until root and leaf growth are alike active. Briefly stated, Nerines are greenhouse plants, needing no water when leafless, but slightly warmer conditions and a fair supply of moisture while growing freely. Speaking broadly, the “dry season” is from _May to August, and during that time the best place for the stock of bulbs is the sunniest and airiest shelf in the greenhouse. Two other points need mention: Weak liquid manure is beneficial to established plants developing flower spikes, and a top-dressing with some rich light soil should be given in the seasons when potting is not essential. Selection of Nerines. flexuosa, pink. undulata, rosy carmine, Fothergillii, vermilion Several beautiful hy- scarlet. brids and _ varieties Sarniensis, crimson scar- have been raised in let. This is the recent years by Mr. Guernsey Lily pro- per, and corusca is a fine orange scarlet variety. H. J. Elwes, of Coles- bourne, but these are not all yet in com- merce, Chapter XLIV.—Ornithoqalums. In Ornithogalums we have a genus which, though numerically large, is not represented by a great number of species in gardens. Several are better suited to the wild garden than to the borders, while at least one, Arabicum, is in every respect worthy of inclusion in all collections of greenhouse plants. Others again, notably nutans, should be relegated to the woods, where they will increase and multiply enormously, and create a very striking effect. For the border the one that is most commonly known as the Star of Bethlehem— umbellatum—is the best, as its white flowers are always admired ; it is also of considerable service for culture in pots. Selection of Ornithogalums. Arabicum, white, black greenhouse culture and ovary, very handsome, is tall growing. and deliciously per- lacteum, white. fumed; this requires nutans, whitish green, RANUNCULUS CULTURE. 137 Selection of Ornithogalums (continued). Pyrenaicum, yellow and varieties, all thriving in green. ‘the greenhouse, thyrsoides, yellow ; several umbellatum, white; the Star of Bethlehem, Chapter XLV.—Ranunculuses, THE Buttercup family has given us many fine garden plants, and among these there are several that have tuberous roots. These do well in the herbaceous border, but as a rule they are seen at their best when planted in moist situations. The species now referred to are aconitifolius, best known -by its double white form, popularly called Bachelor's Buttons; amplexicaulis, white; cortusefolius, yellow, makes a splendid greenhouse plant; Ficaria, yellow, and its double form; Monspeliacus, yellow ; and parnassifolius, white. As bulbous, or more correctly tuberous, rooted subjects, the genus Ranunculus appeals to us most by reason of the variety and useful- ness of the florists’ forms of Asiaticus. These are wonderfully free flowering, and under favourable conditions, hereinafter particularised, grow about 9 inches high and provide distinct colour effects. The florists divide them into four sections, namely, French, Scottish, Persian, and Turban varieties. The first are the most vigorous growers, but are not so refined nor do they come always so double as the Scottish and Persian sorts.. Turban MRanunculuses are - hardier and hive a better constitution than the two last named, and, though they have a tendency to sport, they are in many ways more useful than the others. An ideal soil for these gay old flowers is one composed of 2 parts of good loam and 1 part each of decayed cow manure, leaf soil, and sand ; but if this ideal is not realisable there is no need to despair so long as a 2-feet depth of light, rich soil is available. The bed or plot must be dug some time before planting, to allow the soil to settle. October and February are variously stated as the correct time for putting in the queer looking tubers, and both have staunch disciples. We prefer the second month of the year, because autumn planted tubers usually need protection and do not appear to give such superior results as to compensate for the additional trouble taken and risk incurred. At planting time, no matter which month is chosen, draw drills 6 inches apart on the selected site, and 2 inches deep ; sprinkle some sand in the drills, and then put in the tubers, claws downward, 4 inches apart. Press them in firmly, just cover them with sand, and fill up the drills with light soil. Those who make a hobby of florists’ Ranunculuses place an awning over the 188 = PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. beds as soon as the flowers open, thereby preserving the blooms as long as possible. Selection of Ranunculuses. French Varieties. Abd-el-Kader, brownish red, Attraction, carmine. Bessie M. Weimar, white, shaded rose. Emperor of China, yellow. Excellent, carmine, edged white. Fairy Queen, white. LL’ Etincelante, fiery red. Pink Beauty, pink, edged yellow. Pucelle Aimable, purple, on white ground. Surprise, yellow and red. Persian Varieties. Bridesmaid, white. Commodore Napier, citron, edged purple. Cramoisi a Cceur Vert, crimson scarlet, green centre. Count Orloff, edged rose. Fire King, scarlet. Jaune Supreme, yellow, black centre. King of the Netherlands, black. yellow, Mont Blane, white, striped rose. Orange Brilliant, yellow, orange, and black. Queen Victoria, white, spotted carmine. Rose d’Hollande, carmine. Sir William Penn, white, edged carmine. Turban Varieties. Black, deep crimson. Carmine, carmine. Hercules, white. Merveilleuse, orange yel- low. Romano, scarlet. Seraphique, citron yellow. Souci Dore, red brown. viridiflora, green, edged scarlet. Scotch Varieties. These are not often cata- logued under names, therefore it only need be stated that-the prettily spotted and edged varie- ties are sold in mixture ; if obtained from a re- liable source they will give every satisfaction. Chapter X£VI.—Scillas. TuHoucH of lowly stature, the Scillas, or Squills, must be included among the most valuable of our early spring flowering bulbous plants. Not all, however, are so dwarf and neat as the popular Sibirica and bifolia : neither are they all spring flowering, for Peruviana flowers in "May, Liho-hyacinthus is a summer bloomer, and autumnalis flowers as late as August. All the sorts named below are hardy, excepting Peruviana, which does not do itself justice unless placed in a very warm border or given frame -protection. There is no need to make elaborate preparations for the Scillas, as they are not at all fastidious about soil, but are soon at home in all but the very worst of rooting mediums. They appreciate soil that contains a good proportion of leaf mould, a point that is at once evident to those who have carefully noted the Southerners) flourishes. A SELECTION OF SCILLAS. £439 the localities in which the common native Squill (the Bluebell of Few more beautiful sights can be seen. in this or any other country than a Beech wood or a Hazel _copse carpeted for long distances with Bluebells during April or May. Many of the Scillas are amenable to pot culture, and will thrive if treated in the same way as Snowdrops are when required for the adornment of the window, greenhouse, or conservatory. In the garden Squills should be planted freely, either in small beds by themselves, as an edging or carpeting to other spring bulbs, or as a groundwork to deciduous shrubs. Selection of Scillas. bifolia, blue; several va- rieties, notably alba, rosea, Pink Beauty, and White Queen. festalis, blue; the Blue- bell, of which there are white and rose coloured forms. Hispanica, blue; also white, rose, reddish, and striped varieties. ; Lilio-hyacinthus, blue and purple. Peruviana, lilac; alba and Hughii are respectively white and red tinted. Sibirica, blue. Chapter XLVII—Snowdrops. THE poems that have been written in praise of the Snowdrop all urge upon us its chaste purity and sweet refinement. It, however, needed not the poets’ lays to tell us of its beauty, and of the never-failing hearty welcome which awaits it in the spring as an augury of the year’s awakening. In wood, copse, dell, and hedge- row, in some parts of the country, Snowdrops grow in thousands, os the ground is literally clothed with the pure white, fragrant ooms. In the semi-shaded corner of the rural garden Snowdrops flourish splendidly, especially where the soil is of a fairly strong nature ; but in small gardens it cannot be said for the Snowdrop that it is an unqualified success, though in some it is apparently no trouble at all to establish. Occasionally, where the more graceful single Snowdrop will not grow, the double variety may be planted with a fair hope of satisfactory results, | The several species of Galanthus should be much more extensively planted, as they are most beautiful in the spring and summer, and provide a feature in gardens that no other plants, bulbous or otherwise, can afford. Some of them resemble the common Snowdrops in all except size, while others have exquisite markings of soft yellow or yellowish green on the ground of snowy whiteness. With increase in size many plants deteriorate in refinement, but this is not the case with the large Snowdrops, which are equal in this respect to the smaller sorts. 140 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. The Snowflakes, or, to speak quite correctly, the Leucojums, bear a close resemblance to the Snowdrops, from which, however, they are perfectly distinct, being larger in all their parts, and having rather less of the true Snowdrop’s exquisite refinement, They will be found dealt with under Leucojums. Selection of Snowdrops, or Galanthus. Elwesii, white, varies in and double. Some of size. The varieties Whit- the best are imperati, tallii and robustus are Octobrensis, flavescens, - beautiful, ~ and Melvillei. nivalis, the common Snow- plicatus, white. The Cri- drop, of which there are mean Snowdrop is very several forms in addition handsome. to the ordinary single | This is giving only the smallest selection, and there are, of course, many others of decided merit, both in species and hybrids, but those named will suffice, except in gardens where a speciality is made of this family. Chapter XEVIEE.—Sparaxis, ONCE upon a time Sparaxis were quite popular, and there are signs of a returning favour. Half hardy, like their allies the Ixias, these natives of South Africa require similar conditions to induce them to flower freely. They all make exquisite pot plants, and the little trouble necessary to ensure a bright display is amply repaid in April and May. With these, as with Ixias, some of the older gardeners prefer to wait until February before planting in the open, and this plan has much to recommend it, especially in the less favoured districts. Where pot culture is followed the bulbs are best potted in batches from September to December. Selection of Sparazxis. Fire King, scarlet and Queen Victoria, white, black. yellow, and black. Garibaldi, crimson and tricolor, orange and black. maroon, Victor Emmanuel, red and grandiflora, purple and yellow, white, Chapter XCIX,—Ciaridias. Soper truth compels us to state that while the Tiger Flowers are gorgeously beautiful they are not really hardy, and though they may be successfully cultivated in a cool greenhouse, or even in a cool frame, in a sunny position, the lovely flowers are so evanescent TRITELEIAS AND TRITONIAS. 141 that one cannot conscientiously recommend them as greenhouse subjects. Light sandy soil suits them whether they are grown in pots or well drained, sunny borders.. In some southern gardens a place may be found for them at the foot of a wall, in a position like that advised for the Belladonna Lily. April is the month for planting, and 3 inches is a sufficient depth for the bulbs. Dry leaves make a suitable winter covering for Tigridias grown out of doors. Pavonia, orange, yellow, Pringlei, scarlet, orange, and crimson. Numerous and crimson, varieties, ranging from violacea, rosy purple, ten- white to deep yellow. er. Chapter £.—Criteleias. RANGING from only 3 inches in aurea to 13 feet in laxa, these Liliaceous plants are eminently suitable for such narrow warm borders as are frequently to be found at the foot of a greenhouse wall. The position must be a sunny one, and the soil light, if the highest success is to be obtained. This advice is all the more necessary because in wet winters the bulbs are very liable to decay if the soil be heavy. Moreover, in a retentive soil the bulbs do not ripen properly after the leaves have died down, and consequently flowers are either absent or poor the following season, provided the plant survives at all. Lifting and planting must be done when the bulbs are quite at rest; the stronger growers will naturally require a little more room than the dwarf ones, but in all cases a depth of 3 inches will be ample. aurea, yellow. uniflora, lilac. laxa, blue. Chapter £1—Critonias. In this we have another genus of Cape bulbs, closely related both to the Ixias and Sparaxis on the one hand and to the Montbretias and Crocosmias on the other. ‘Tritonias are less hardy than Ixias, and, except in the summer months, must have frame or greenhouse protection ; in every other respect the advice given for Ixias should be followed. Mixed varieties, as now supplied by the leading bulb dealers, will meet the requirements of most folk, but for those who desire named sorts the following is a good selection :— Bella, blush. Eleonore, buff. crocata, orange. Laura, salmon. __ elegans, orange cerise. speciosa, orange scarlet. 142 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. | Chapter L11.—Tropeolums. THOSE great garden favourites the “ Nasturtrums” have, by reason of their easy culture, variety of colouring, and widespread popularity, pushed the majority of perennial Tropeolums out of gardens. Several of the finest of these perennials have tuberous or thickened rootstocks, and therefore they are here brought under the broad category of “bulbs.” Propagation is generally effected by division of the roots or by seeds sown in gentle heat ‘in the spring; several may also be increased by cuttings. Taken as a class they favour a light sandy loam, but speciosum enjoys moister conditions of soil and atmosphere than the others, and as a consequence it grows with greater luxuriance and blooms with a greater freedom in Scotland than in any other part of the kingdom. It will succeed in the South, but as a rule it needs a lot of coaxing, as does many another beauty. Sometimes the grower tires of coaxing before the Flame Flower makes up its mind to “be good”; then follows a season of comparative neglect, and it may happen that, like a fickle woman, the plant sets out to win back the affection it once scorned. When this occurs the best thing to do is to do nothing, and if this lovely native of Chili takes possession of a favourite tree or shrub and throws over it a mantle of delicate greenery studded with jewels of scarlet, then accept the gift of the gods with thankfulness. On the other hand we have polyphyllum, also a Chilian plant, but with totally different tastes from speciosum. It loves the sunniest place in the garden, and if this also be the driest place so much the better, provided there is a fair depth of soil. The prostrate habit of this species makes it suitable for a rock garden or for the adornment of a sunny bank. Two of the selected species can only be regarded as half hardy—these are tricolorum and tuberosum, and in dealing with them it is a good plan to lift and store the roots away from frost each winter. Both these, as well as Jarrattii and pentaphyllum, pay for greenhouse culture. Rich sandy soil and large well-drained pots will meet their needs, but they must be provided with wires or a balloon trellis to climb upon. A bright position, a good supply of water while in full growth, and an absence of water during the resting season are points to be observed by the grower of tuberous-rooted greenhouse Tropeolums. Selection of Zropeolums., Jarrattii, orange scarlet speciosum, vermilion, and yellowish brown. tricolorum, scarlet, yellow pentaphyllum, greenish and black. purple and scarlet. tuberosum, red and yellow. polyphyllum, bright golden yellow. - SELECTIONS OF DUTCH TULIPS. 143 Chapter CU.—\_Tuberoses. AFrricaN Tuberoses are purchasable in early autumn; they grow taller than the American variety, which is seldom ready for distribu- tion before December. In both cases the cultural requirements are similar. Five- or 6-inch pots suffice for one bulb. Crock the pots well, and pot firmly in a compost of 2 parts fibrous loam, 1 part sifted decayed cow manure, and sand as needful. As it is highly desirable no water be given until growth commences, the soil must be fairly moist at potting time. Remember the Tuberose is half hardy, and that, although it responds readily to forcing, strong heat is only needed to obtain early flowers. A cold frame or pit will afford sufficient protection for some time after potting, but frost must be excluded, and it is safer to house the plants during winter. Plunged where there is a bottom heat of from 60° to 70° Tuberoses are quickly brought into bloom, provided they are well rooted and have already started to grow. Double African, white, The Pearl, white, double, tuberosa, white, single, double, sweet scented, very fragrant, 3 feet. not nearly so much 5 feet, oe as the double Oorms. : Chapter £IV.—Culips. CoUnTLEss thousands of the bright, attractive looking bulbs find their way into this country from the sandy lands of Holland, and we appreciate them. But we find pleasure in the fact that the bulb productions of the Green Isle have no superiors. Selections of Tulips. — Selection of Single Duich Tulips for Bedding. Arms of Leyden, white, Empress of India, rich *Proserpine, rich rose, striped rose, Artus, scarlet. Brutus, orange crimson. orange, Globe de Rigaud, dark slate and white. superb, Queen of the Violets, pale violet. Canary Bird, yellow, Grace MJDarling, orange Rosa Mundi, rose purple. early. scarlet. *Rose Gris-de-Lin, rose *Chrysolora, yellow. *Joost van Vordel, crim- and white. *Cottage Maid, rose, son rose, pencilled Royal Standard, white, shaded white. white. pencilled rose. Couleur Cardinal,richred. *Keizer’s Kroon, scarlet *Thomas Moore, orange. Crimson King, scarlet and yellow; most *Van der Neer, violet crimson. brilliant. purple. *Duchesse de Parme, La Reine, white, tinged * Vermilion Brilliant, orange red, edged rose. orange scarlet. yellow. Pink Perfection, pink. Yellow Prince, fragrant, *Dussart, deep crimson. Pottebakker, scarlet, Potter, violet red. yellow. *White Swan, white. 144 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWIN a. The varieties included in the foregoing list flower almost simul- taneously, and a grower may select those which meet his requirements in regard to colour. The best twelve are marked with an asterisk. Double Dutch Varieties. Gloria Solis, reddish La Candeur, white. Tournesol, red and yellow brown, edged yellow. Princess Alexandra, red, Tournesol, yellow. Imperator rubrorum, margined yellow. Yellow Rose, yellow. crimson scarlet. | Tulips for Pots. . Admiral Reinier, pink, *Hector, orange scarlet, * Ophir d’Or, golden striped white. edged yellow. yellow. *Bride of Haarlem, white, *Joost van Vondel, white. Pottebakker, white. feathered crimson. King of the Yellows. Princess Helena, pure *Cramoisie Superbe,cerise Koh-i-Noor, deep scarlet. white. *Defiance, crimson, *La Riante, deep rose. * Queen of the Nether- striped gold. La Belle Alliance, brilliant lands, rosy white. *Fabiola, purple rose, scarlet. Rose Aplatie, rose and feathered white. La Tendresse, soft rose. white. *Goldfinch, pale yellow. *Le Matelas, white, Rouge Luisante, deep rose Grand Duchess, pure _ flushed rose. pink. | white. L’Immaculée, pure white. Van Berghem, rose pink. *Maes, dazzling scarlet. : In the case of the varieties mentioned as especially adapted for pots the best are designated by an asterisk. Tulips for Forcing. Duc van Thol, red and yellow. = crimson. 3 scarlet, =A white. - yellow Variegated-leaved Tulips. : Feu del’Empire, scarlet. Lac van Rhyn, rose violet, Yellow Prince, yellow. Purple Crown, crimson. edged white. Yellow Rose, yellow. Rex rubrorum, rosy crim- son. Darwin Tulips. = These provide late flowers on very long stems, which have substantial value for cutting purposes, as well as for the adornment of the garden. If the bulbs are planted in clumps of about one dozen, they look magnificent in May. Clara Butt, soft salmon Mrs. Krelage, delicate Rev. H, Ewhbank, pale rose, rose, broad, blush rose _ heliotrope. Early Dawn, rosy violet, margin, Salmon King,salmon rose, tinged blush. Pride of Haarlem, salmon Suzon, flesh rose, blue and Glow, vermilion cerise., cerise, shaded scarlet. white centre. Loveliness,warmrosepink Queen of Brilliants, deep The Sultan, maroon black. Marguerite.exterior blush, salmon rose, interior rose pink. Selection of Tulip Species. acuminata, red. Bilhetiana, yellow. elegans, red, yellow eye. Australis, yellow,suffused Clusiana, white and red, Gesneriana, bright red. red. black base. Greigii, brilliant orange Batalinii, lemon yellow. Didieri, red, black blotch. _— scarlet; inconstant. SELECTIONS OF FLORISTS’ Selection of Tulip Species (continued). Kaufmanniana, white, yellow, and red. Kolpakowskiana, yellow or scarlet. Leichtlini,pink and white. macrospeila, crimson, black blotch. oculus-solis, red, black blotch, yellow edge. primulina, yellow and red. TULIPS. 145 saxatilis, purple and mauve. suaveolens, red and yel- low. sylvestris, yellow. retroflexa, yellow. violacea, reddish mauve. Florists’ Tulips. These constitute the aristocracy of the Tulip family. In the different varieties we may find the most exquisitely delicate colours, as wellas hues that rival the Parrot flowers in the gorgecusness of their beauty, and no matter to what extreme we go there is always the very essence of refinement enveloping the flower. Whether the variety belongs to the Bizarre, the Byblemen, or the Rose section, it is sure to be of the same characteristically refined type. Let it not be thought that all are of equal merit, for such is by no means the case, but in the very choicest forms, such as are embodied in the Libanotica, purple. subjoined lists, all the best points are in conspicuous prominence. Selections of Florists’ Tulips. Colbert, fine for the gar- den, but not for show. Dr. Hardy, seldom seen with feathering only. General Grant, splendid feathering. George Hayward, fine for the garden, too heavy for show. James Wild. Lord Frederick Caven- dish, inclined to be heavy. Adonis, fine light flamed and feathered. Bessie, good when light, often heavy. Duchess of Sutherland, almost constant, finely feathered and flamed. Elizabeth Pegg, nice when feathered, often smudgy Friar Tuck, generally good, Aglaia, large, good for the garden, often too heavy for show. Anastasia, good, often too heavy for show, ee Bizarres. Lord Lilford, good when feathered, colour some- times runs. Lord Stanley, almost cop- stant, generally finely feathered and flamed. Masterpiece, sometimes a good feathered flower, but generally smudgy ; a favourite with ex- hibitors. Byhblemens, Mrs. Jackson, fine for the garden, not for exhibition. Mrs. Pickersgill, some- times good, base rather yellow, requires bleach- ing. Princess Royal (Queen of May), fine for the garden, too long for show. Roses. Annie Macgregor, one of the best, generally good in both feathered and flamed forms. Sam Barlow, superb sometimes feathered, and at others feathered and flamed. Sir Joseph Paxton, an old favourite, very showy, and generally well marked. Sulphur, sometimes good, sometimes smudgy, fine for the garden, sweetly scented, Proserpine, finely feathered. Talisman, fine when well broken. Trip to Stockport, good when light, often smudgy. Wedding Coat, almost constantly feathered, small, dwarf. Comte de Vergennes, usually feathered, and fairly constant, not of perfect form, Heroine, good feathered or flamed, 146 PICTORIAL Industry, occasionally well feathered,no use flamed. Kate Connor, good for the garden, too pointed for show. Dr. Hardy, rich Bizarre, getting scarce. Annie Macgregor, cerise. Goldfinder, finest scarlet Bizarre. James Wild, good Bizarre. Industry, rich rose, not good form. Kate Connor, rose. Lord Derby, rose crimson, dazzling white base, fine for the garden, not for show. TOSE PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. Roses (continued). Mabel, fine both feathered and flamed. Modesty, good feathered, often smudgy. Mrs. Atkins, nicely feath- ered, fairly constant. Breeders, Lady Constance venor, lovely rose. Mabel, fine soft rose. Miss Foster, curious By- blemen, flushed choco- late and fawn. Miss Hardy, good Byble- men, lilac. Rose Hill, crimson scarce. Sam Barlow, Bizarre. Gros- handsome rose, getting splendid Mrs. Lee, good feathered, fairly constant. Sarah Headley, finely feathered. often Sir Joseph Paxton, deep chocolate brown Bizarre Sulphur, fine Bizarre, very fragrant. Talisman, good Byble- men, lilac with silvery shade. William Lea, rich black maroon Bizarre. Music, one of the best Byblemeuns, Beeps, fine form, _ Parrot or Dragon Tulips. The several varieties that come within the scope of this section are remarkable for the gorgeousness of their flowers, which are exceptionally large and of the most brillant hues. They are late flowering, and are not usually at their best until the middle or the end of May. The only fault of any moment is that of having flowers too large for the strength of the stems, which renders it somewhat difficult for the full beauty of the blooms to be appreciated unless each one 1s accorded a small stake. Café Brun, yellow and Markgraaf, yellow, scar- preciosa, dark red and coffee. Feu Brillant, scarlet. lutea major, yellow. let, and green. perfecta, striped red and yellow. gold Selection of May flowering Tulips. Though all of these cannot be embodied in the foregoing sections, they are so strikingly handsome that one can scarcely “afford to exclude them from the garden. much of the character of the Darwin section ; assume that they are closely Billietiana, yellow, shaded red, Billietiana Sunset, bright red and yellow. Bouton d’Or, = golden yellow. Buenoventura, orange, gold striped. They produce a flower which has indeed, one may allied to each other. Dainty Maid, white, lilac Parisian Yellow, yellow. markings. Delia, carmine. Gala Beauty, vermilion and yellow. Gesneriana, scarlet crim- son (said to be the parent of the Florists’ Tulips). Picotee, white, margined cerise. Roy al White, cream. Summer Beauty, lavender rose, VARIOUS BULBS. 147 Addenda. Dielytra spectabilis.—Hardy, thriving best in warm, moist localities, the Dielytra is a fine border plant. It does splendidly in the Sister Isle and in Wales; in other parts of the country it is equally valuable. For the decoration cf the conservatory in early spring the Dielytra is invaluable, while for a fancy vase in the drawing-room it is not easily surpassed, either for grace or beauty, when well grown. Strong crowns lifted in autumn and put in pots of the smallest size that will accommodate them can be easily brought into flower, and as from 50° to 55° is all the heat needed or advised this is essentially a plant for the amateur to grow. Put the crowns in a compost of loam, peat, and leaf soil, and stand them in a cold frame until they are wanted for gentle forcing. Division of the crowns in spring is the best and easiest method of increasing stock. Galtonia candicans.— This is a very handsome bulbous plant, whose tall spikes of creamy white bell-shaped flowers are well-nigh indispensable in the border in August. Procure bulbs and plant them 8 or 9 inches deep in any ordinary garden soil, avoiding the use of fresh manure where possible, and when it must be employed keeping it from actually touching the roots. Offsets or seeds, the latter sown in gentle heat, form ready means of increase. This plant is commonly grown under the name of Hyacinthus candicans. Lilies of the Valley.—Cold storage has worked many wonders, and by its application to Lily of the Valley we are able to have the beautiful fragrant bells all the year round. From June to January, and even longer, the nurseryman will supply retarded crowns, and by simply potting or boxing these, and placing them in a temperature of 50° to 55°, excellent spikes are produced in from three to four weeks. -Moist atmosphere and total darkness until the spikes are well up are other essentials to good results. But the whole matter is delightfully simple. Unretarded crowns continue the supply, but these are more exacting, and need from 80° to 90° of heat to bring them along satisfactorily. Following these come the clumps imported from Holland or Germany, and they also require plenty of heat and moisture. Out of doors Lily of the Valley is too often left severely alone. The position of the selected plot may be right enough, but subsequent attention is frequently conspicuous by its absence. ry ‘ = ci 1 j 7 ¢ ie , 7 _ - ~¢ Mi ‘ a oI i “ Di i a worse fos ey 74 thee ‘i : Abeweal an peat DAP MRE Ae ANS Meds aeiad ‘ PHO MAD ey UE ay 6 . WEAR HEE eH 4 ue PLU te ies ‘ een ae ‘ (eld oP gage. « Dine » to + wae 4 “ ol ee nM Ai LDU Oy SLM tw oe bridge May TOUTE OE PMO wey oh ong 4 a eu hae : , 4 N IP (bO je Pho dbthee sh yao i Peo sh he ag ery OA BM, Ay Ayithwe baie eh. anare jm Le ne ee eT fi Lee he Tp © 8h adalat Lies ine Mth \aed he ye ” My PNeae a ey anew 4 POPUL 6 4 baste ae hel Lae te jnted © 4nd Wie Gee, 4 1 fe ee ane . 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