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FRUIT,
FLOWER, AND KITCHEN

GARDENERS’ COMPANION.

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Front view and ground plan of 2 Palm-house, Hot-house, and Green-house.

THE PRACTICAL

Pon U Foe,
FLOWER AND VEGETABLE

GARDENER’S COMPANION,

WITH A

CALENDAR.

BY
PATRICK NEILL, LL.D., FR.S.E.,

SECRETARY TO THE noth CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

Adapted to the United States.
FROM THE FOURTH EDITION.
REVISED AND IMPROVED BY THE AUTHOR,

EDITED BY
G@. EMERSON, M.D.

EDITOR OF JOHNSON’S FARMERS’ ENCYCLOPEDIA.

WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS,
BY oR.: G:: PARDEE;

AUTHOR oF “MANUAL OF THE STRAWBERRY CULTURE.”

WITH ELEGANT ILLUSTRATIONS.

NEW YORK:

C.M. SAXTON &CO.,,
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS.

1855.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by
C. M. SAXTON & CO.,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.

~

JOHN J REED,
Stereotyper and Printer,
16 Spruce street,

eS ft te

x

PREFACE

TO THE

AMERICAN EDITION.

‘Tue small but very comprehensive work here presented
to the American public, is the production of one who for
more than thirty years was secretary of the ‘‘ Caledonian
Horticultural Society,” and whe enjoyed every facility for
acquiring the very best information relating to the subjects
upon which he treats. That it has been favorably received
in England and Scotland, would seem very clear from the
fact of its having gone to a fourth edition in a very short
time. The treatise presents, in a condensed form, a sum-
mary view of the condition of horticultural knowledge in
Britain, and especially in Scotland, from whence we derive
the most intelligent and successful gardeners. The superior
skill of these in the management of plants and the culture
of many rare kinds of fruit, is doubtless owing in a great
degree to the extraordinary exertions they have been
accustomed to put forth to secure success in a climate far
less genial to fruits and flowers than that of most parts of
the United States. In endeavoring to adapt this valuable
manual to the condition of things in the United States, it
has been thought best to retain all the original matter,
however apparently irrelevant, since most intelligent per-

Vill PREFACE.

sons can make proper allowances for changes of circum-
stances, and are interested in knowing how many things
ean be accomplished where greater obstacles to success are
presented than they themselves are forced to contend
against. ‘To persons interested in Horticulture and Fruit
culture, residing in the more northern sections of the Union,
and especially the British provinces, where considerable
difficulties are met with from the shortness of summers, and
rigor of winters, a work containing the latest and best
_ information relating to the modes of rendering the natural
sources of heat as efficient as possible, cannot fail to be
acceptable. ‘The same may be said of those who in every
section of our country desire to be able to raise fruits, veg-
etables, and flowers, under protection, and by the most
judicious application of artificial heat, bring these to per-
fection in every month of the year.

Within a very short time the vine culture has met in
the United States with extraordinary success, and the pro-
duction from native grapes of wine rivaling some of the best
kinds derived from the Rhine and Moselle, has occasioned
no little surprise, especially among those who entertained
the prevailing theory that no good wine could be produced
on the eastern portion of a continent. Mr. Longworth of
Cincinnati, the chief among many pioneers, by refuting this
dogma has laid his countrymen under the greatest obliga-
tions, and added a new resource to the already teeming
wealth of the American soil. It is the importance which
we think invests this subject, thathas led us to devote such
particular attention to American grapes and the modes of
culture adopted successfully in the vicinity of Cincinnati,
for much of which information we have been indebted to an
extremely valuable publication made last year by Robert
Buchanan, Esq., of that city.

PREFACE. ix

Any one who has given attention to the subject must
have been struck with the waste of ground devoted in the
United States to the culture of fruit of indifferent charac-
ter. As it is obvious that good varieties occupy no more
space than inferior ones, we have endeavored to aid in their
choice those who set out orchards or cultivate fruit in
any manner, by giving them the decisions of the American
Congress of Fruit-growers, which has held several annual
meetings in New York and elsewhere—a highly respectable
body of intelligent and practical men, meeting annually to
discuss the merits and promote the culture of the best fruits
of allkinds. A few years will demonstrate to the country
the most valuable results from this association of accom-
plished and experienced pomologists.

ab abcde { beste: ‘tine
| F a stave

ae
4
,

——
hai

PREFACE

TO THE

REVISED AMERICAN EDITION.

In the preparation of this Edition for the press by the
publisher, it has been thought desirable to adapt it, in a
still greater degree, to the wants of American Readers.

In order to accomplish this, much new matter, and seve-
ral entirely new articles of especial interest at the present
time, have been-prepared and added to the work.

The standard Fruits of our country which have obtained
the sanction of that intelligent body, the American Con-
gress of Fruit-growers, up to, and including their last meet-
ing, in Boston, in September, 1854, is given in full under
their appropriate heads—

A more select list of reliable fruits has also been pre-
pared and placed after the Calendar, and which is particu-
larly commended to those selecting for the Middle and
Northern States.

In order to make room for all of this, some of the origi-
nal matter of the English Edition has been extracted from
this, but it consisted almost exclusively of comments on
English Apples, and other fruits, unknown or proved value-
less in this country, and the greater part of them have had

xii PREFACE.

their day even in England, and already passed on to their
rejected lists,

This work is preéminently suggestive. The reader will
be surprised at the amount of valuable thought and accu-
rate information herein embodied. We are not acquainted
with any similar work in our country whieh extends over
so wide a range of fruits, vegetables and flowers. True,
many things are referred to briefly and yet distinctly.

The work is quite full and complete on the subject of
Hot and forcing Houses; their construction, heating by
Steam, Hot water, &c.; the cultivation in them of the
Grape, the Peach, Fig, Pine Apple, &c.

The illustrations of the work are worthy of particular
notice on account of their great accuracy and beauty, and
the farmer, the gardener, the fruit-grower, or the amateur,
will find it when carefully studied, a very useful and
acceptable help, and prove worthy of extensive circulation.

New York, 1855.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION, - - 3 a 4

Fruit and KircHen GARDEN in general.
Situation, shelter, water, walls, and wall-bor-
ders, espalier-rails, soils and manures;
Orchard, - - - - -

Fruit GARDEN.
Propagation of Fruit-trees by seed, by layers,
and by grafting, - - - -
Planting and training of Fruit-trees, - -

Culture of different kinds of Hardy Fruits.
Grape-vine, - . - - -
Be ee 8 ne ee
Peach and Nectarine, - - - -
Almond, Apricot, Plum, and Cherry, - -
Pears, early and late, - - ~ -
Apples, dessert and stewing, - - -
Quince, Medlar, Service-tree, Mulberry, Hazel,

Walnut, and Chestnut, - - -

Small Fruits.
Red, White, and Black Currants, - -
Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Blackberry, -
Strawberry, Cranberry, &c., - : -

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Cabbage Tribe: Heading Cabbages, Savoys,
Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Broccoli, -
Leguminous Tribe: Peas, Beans, &c., -
Esculent Roots: Potato, Turnip, and Carrot,
Parsnip, Beet, Radish, &c., - -

PAGE
L529

21-37

37-50
50-54

63-90
90-94.
94-111
111-123
123-136
136-141

141-148

148
149-155
155-167

167-174
175-178

178-195

XiV CONTENTS.

PAGE
Alluaceous Plants : Onions, Leeks, Hops, Shallot,
and Garlic, - - - - 195-203
Spinaceous Plants: Spinach, Tetragonia, Qui-
noa, &c., - - - - - 203-206
Asparaginous Plants: Asparagus, Sea-kale,
Artichoke, and Cardoon, - - - 206-218
Salads, §-c.: Lettuce, Endive, Succory, Celery,
Rhubarb-Stalks, Sweet Herbs, - - 213-222
Melons, Squashes, Pumpkins, ¢¢., - - 222-231
FLoweErR GARDEN in general. ;
Soil, Walks, Edgings, &c., . - 231-243
Ornamental Shrubs, and Rosary, - - 243-249
Showy Herbaceous Plants, - - - 249
Florists’ Flowers : Hyacinth, Tulip, Ranuncu-
lus, Anemone, Carnation, Pink, &c., - 259
Botanical Structures: Green-house, Conserva-
tory, Stove, with Ornamental Plants suited
toeach, - - - - - 282
Cultivation of Tropical Orchidacee, - - 295
Forcine GARDEN, 298
Different kinds of furnaces, - - - 301
Heating by steam, - ~ . - 802
hot water, - - - - 307
Admission of Air and Light, - - - 317
Vinery, - - - - - - 325
Peach-house, - $ = = = 331
Cherry-house, Fig-house, and Orangery, = 336
Pinery, Nursing-Pit, Succession-Pit, and Fruit-
ing-house, - - - > - 34]
Culture of Pine-apples, - - - 357
Melonry, various forms of Pits, - - 362
Cucumbers, Gourds, and Mushrooms, zi 369

CaLenpar of Horticultural Duties in the various
months, - - - - - 377-400

Sextect List oF Fruits, - - . - 400-402

HORTICULTURE.

INTRODUCTION.

Horricu.ture is that branch of rural economy which
consists in the formation and culture of Gardens. Its
results are culinary vegetables, fruits, and flowers. On
one side it is allied to Agriculture, from which, how-
ever, it is distinguished by the nature of its products,
and by the smaller extent and greater complexity of
its operations; on the other side, in its processes of
embellishment, it approaches the department of the
Landscape Gardener and the Forester, from which, how-
ever, it also retires in the comparative minuteness of its
details.

Like other arts, Horticulture borrows its principles
from the general sciences. To Botany it is beholden
for the facts and theories of vegetable physiology; to
Chemistry for assistance in reference to soils, manures,
and artificial heat; and to Meteorology for a knowledge
of many circumstances which very materially affect the
labors of the gardener. With these subjects, the phi-
losophical horticulturist will not fail to make himself
familiar. But itis very desirable that such information
should be extensively diffused among practical men; as

16 INTRODUCTION.

it is only from this quarter that much improvement, in our
present state of knowledge, can be expected. Truth, how-
ever, obliges us to admit that gardening has been most
successfully practiced when treated as an empirical art.
Few of those who are minutely conversant with its numer-
ous manipulations have undergone such an intellectual
training as to enable them to wield general principles with
effect. Many who are not inexpert or unsuccessful while
they follow the routine practice (a practice be it remem-
bered, founded on long experience, and close observation),
egregiously fail when, with imperfect information, or ill-
advised ingenuity, they endeavor to strike out new paths
for themselves. The object of the art, too, limits the ap-
plication of the deductions of science. Its whole business
consists in the imitation of Nature, whose processes may
indeed be, in some measure, originated, as when a seed is
inserted in the ground, or modified, as in the artificial
training of fruit-trees, but which may not be entirely con-
trolled, much less counteracted. The principle of vege-
table life will not endure interference beyond a certain point,
and our theoretical views-should be so directed as to inter-
fere with it as little as possible. Observation and experi,
ment are the grand means by which the art has arrived at
its present state of advancement: at the same time, it is
obvious that an enlarged acquaintance with science will
aid us in imitating the processes of nature, will guide the
hand of experiment, suggest contrivances, and enable us
to guard against error; and, above all, will tend to dispel
those prejudices aineh practitioners in ae empirical arts
are so prone to cherish.

Gardening, Mr. Walpole observes, was probably one of
the first arts which succeeded to that of building houses,
and naturally attended property and individual possession.

INTRODUCTION. LZ

Culinary, and afterwards medicinal herbs, were objects in
request by every head of a family; and it became conven-
ient to have them within reach, without searching for them
in woods, in meadows, or on mountains, as they might be
wanted. Separate inclosures for rearing herbs were soon
found expedient. Fruits were in the same predicament ;
and those most in use, or the cultivation of which required
particular attention, must early have entered into and ex-
tended the domestic inclosure. Such may be deemed the
leading heads of a conjectural history of the art; and, in-
deed, if we would ascend into remote antiquity, we can
have recourse only to conjecture; for although, in the
Sacred Writings, and in the earliest profane authors, allu-
sions to gardens occur, little is told us either of their pro-
ductions or their culture. At the close of the Roman com-
monwealth, the catalogue of fruits had become considerable,
the principles of grafting and pruning were understood and
practiced, and shortly afterwards, even artificial heat seems
to have been partially employed. With the decline of the
empire, horticulture seems also to have declined, or to have
become stationary ; but, at the revival of learning, it arose
from the slumber of the Dark Ages, encumbered, it is true,
by the dreams of the alchymist, the restrictions of unlucky
days, and the imaginary effects of lunar influence. From
these fetters it was ere long emancipated by the diffusion
of knowledge, and it has hitherto kept pace with the gene-
ral improvement of society. Modified by climate and
other circumstances in different countries, its advancement
has been various; but nowhere has it made greater pro-
gress than amongst ourselves. Introduced into England
at an early period, gardening became conspicuous in the
reign of Henry VIII, and his immediate successors, and
met with considerable attention during the reigns of the

18 INTRODUCTION.

Stuarts. In the first half of the eighteenth century, Mil-
ler, Switzer, and others, labored with success in improving
the operations, and unfolding the principles of the art;
and these were succeeded by Abercrombie, Speechly, and
a host of writers, who added greatly to our stores of know-
ledge. In 1805 was established the Horticultural Society
of London, which was followed, in 1809, by the institution
of the Caledonian Horticultural Society at Edinburgh;
and in their train have sprung up a multitude of provin-
cial gardening societies, all of which have given an impulse
to the public mind, and stimulated the exertions of indi-
viduals. Experimental gardens have been formed, in which,
amongst other things, the important task of distinguishing
and classifying the numerous varieties of our hardy fruits
has been zealously prosecuted. The mass of information
now collected is very great, and the labor expended in its
diffusion unwearied. Judging from the literature of the
day, and passing downwards from the sumptuous Transac-
tions of the Metropolitan Society, through the numerous
periodicals, to the penny information for the people, we
shall scarcely find any art, however nationally important,
which receives more attention, or on which the liberality
of the wealthy is more abundantly bestowed. The public
nursery-gardens, too, both at London and elsewhere, es-
tablishments intimately connected with our subject, and
which, in a manufacturing nation, are not the least wonder-
ful amongst the applications of skill and capital, prove the
extent and perfection to which gardening has advanced.
Although, however, there is not, perhaps, in the annals of
invention, a chapter of higher interest than the history of
Horticulture, the limits prescribed to us do not permit us
to enter farther into details: we must, therefore, refer to
_ the late eminent Mr. Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Garden-

INTRODUCTION. 19

img, a work, which, for minuteness of exposition, copious-
ness of illustration, and general accuracy, is perhaps un-
rivaled amongst the didactic treatises of our times.

The objects of culture are so numerous, the operations
so varied, and the materials so copious, that, in presenting
what can claim only the character of a sketch of our sub-
ject, it will be necessary to follow a plan of selection. It
would be unprofitable to describe add the methods of cul-
ture to be found in practice at the present day; we shall
therefore notice such only as are deemed the best.

The subject naturally divides itself into the Fruit, the
Kitchen, and the Flower Garden: but as the first two
generally occupy the same locality, or are intermingled
with each other, and as everything connected with their
formation is inseparably involved, we shall, to some extent,
take them together. Then will follow the Flower Garden;
and, by way of conclusion to the whole, a short Calendar.

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FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this compartment are cultivated the articles which
are necessary for the supply of the kitchen and the dessert-
table. In England, it is usually enclosed with walls, not
only for the sake of security and general shelter, but to
afford the means of cultivating in that climate the finer
fruits by training the trees close to the walls. In the
United States, little or no protection against cold is neces-
sary, unless it be in the more northern sections. But the
English garden must be furnished with hot-houses, melon-
frames, and similar contrivances, by which the fruits of
warmer climates are subjected to an artificially increased
temperature, and thus brought to maturity.- The size of a
walled garden ought evidently to bear some proportion to
the splendor of the mansion-house of which it is an append-
age, to the extent of the park, and the means of the family.
Where the demand is large, such a garden should not com-
prehend less than from four to six acres. In many places,
this extent will not afford an adequate supply of culinary
vegetables, but some of the bulkier crops, such as peas, po-
tatoes and turnips, may be raised in the orehard, or on the
home farm. From an acre and a half to three acres may
be regarded as forming a respectable middle-sized garden;
but, within the limits already mentioned, it is better, in the
first formation of a garden, to inclose too large than too
small a space.

22 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

The productiveness of such an establishment will depend
chiefly upon the natural fertility of the soil, and the favor-
able kind of situation, but also in a considerable degree
upon the labor bestowed upon the culture. Where a gar-
den is wnderworked (to use a gardener’s phrase), the finer
products must necessarily be scanty, for whatever requires
care requires time; and it not unfrequently happens that a
gardener fails in some crop, not from defect of method or skill,
but because he had not been able to overtake it, or has been
obliged to make his preparations in a hurried and insufii-
cient manner. All circumstances being favorable, a British
garden is perhaps unrivaled in fertility by any cultivated
spot in the world. A copious supply of esculents flows
into the kitchen at all seasons; and after a rich abundance
of fruit has been afforded during summer and autumn, the
winter stores may be easily prolonged till the early forced
fruits come again to the table.

Weshall first treat of the general properties and append-
ages of the Fruit and Kitchen Garden.

Situation.—The position of the garden in relation to
the mansion-house properly belongs to the province of
Landscape-Gardening, as it obviously should be in keeping
with the general features of the park scenery. There
should intervene a lawn, or piece of green sward, of larger
or less dimensions; and great-attention should be paid to
the original formation of such lawn. After the surface of the
ground has been leveled and made fine, some such selection
of grass-seeds as the following (calculated for half an acre)
should be adopted: Lolium perenne tenue, (Slender Rye-
Grass,) 8 lbs.; Trifolium repens, (white Dutch Clover.)
3 lbs.; T. minus, 1 lb.; Cynosurus cristatus, (Orchard
Grass,) 3 \bs.; Festuca duriuscula, (Hard or Smooth Fes-

SITUATION. 23

cwe,) 2 lbs.; F. ovina tenuifolia, (‘Slender Sheep’s Fescue,)
1 lb.; Poa nemoralis sempervirens, (Annual Meadow
Grass,) 2 lbs.; and Anthoxanthum odoratum, (Sweet-
scented Meadow Grass,) 1-2 lb. If the soil be light or
sandy, more of the fescue-grasses may be sown, and 1-2 lb.
of Lotus corniculatus (Common Birds-Foot Clover, or
Trefoil) added. It may, in general, be remarked that, ag a
place of interest to every well-informed proprietor, the gar-
den should be so near to the mansion as to be conveniently
accessible on foot, probably within little more than a quar-
ter of a mile; while it should be so distant as to avoid the
possibility of offence arising from the necessary gardening
operations, and the resort of workmen. A position on one
side of the house is to be preferred, unless a much more
eligible one occur in the rear. Wherever it be placed, it
should be so masked by evergreen shrubs, and by trees, as
not to be visible from the principal lawn, or from the walks
in the shrubbery and flower-garden. If the surface of the
domain be undulated, the garden is almost unavoidably seen
from some point or other, and the cowp-d wil of the in-
closure walls is apt to present the idea of a huge box; an
unpleasant impression, which should by all means be avoid-
ed or lessened by plantations judiciously introduced.
Ground possessing a gentle inclination toward the south
is desirable for a garden. On such a slope effectual drain-
ing is easily accomplished, and the greatest possible benefit
is derived from the sun’s rays. The lower part of the gen-
tle declivity is perhaps to be preferred; but a very low
situation should scarcely be chosen, as the subsoil is apt to
be damp; fogs often brood over such spots, and frosts are
more injurious there than on higher ground. It is benefi-
cial to have an open exposure towards the east and west, so

24 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

that the garden may enjoy the full benefit of the morning
and evening sun.

Shelter is absolutely necessary, particularly in England;
and that afforded by natural objects, such as rising grounds,
is the best. Where this is wanting, its place should be
supplied by masses of forest-trees, disposed at such a dis-
tance, however, as not to shade the wall trees, perhaps not
nearer than 150 feet. The chief purpose of such screens is
to break the force of the winds; and as every situation is,
in this respect, lable to some peculiarities occasioned by
the general structure of the country, or by the reverbera-
tion of aérial currents from adjacent eminences, these pe-
culiarities should be carefully observed and obviated. The
idea that crowded plantations increase the warmth of a
place is often fallacious; and, in the opinion of many, they
do more harm than good, by encouraging blight. The trees
employed may be of a varied character, but lime-tree,
horse-chestnut, beech, sycamore, weeping birch, oak, and
the elm, should prevail. There may also be a proportion
of evergreen trees, such as firs, pines, hollies, and evergreen
oaks. When these masses of wood are planted at the time
the garden is formed, poplars, larches, and other fast-
growing trees, should be thickly intermixed to act as tem-
porary trees or nurses, which are afterwards to be weeded
out, as the permanent trees more slowly advance to matu-
rity. Walls immediately around the garden, and low
hedges intersecting the compartments, are highly useful in
_ preventing radiation during clear nights, which always pro-
duces great additional cold.

A supply of water is equally necessary. Where a
streamlet can be made to flow through the garden, and keep
a central pool constantly full, it will conduce both to utility
and amenity. In many places, such a streamlet cannot be

WATER—APPROACH. 25

commanded; but water may be conducted in pipes from
springs or sources higher than the general level of the
garden, and collected ina tank in the upper part of the in-
closure. Supposing the garden to have a slope to the
south, water might not only be supplied from such tank
for ordinary garden purposes, but might be made to irrigate
different quarters in succession. The late Mr. Knight, of
Downton, was in the practice of irrigating with great
advantage his strawberry beds while in flower, the rows of
celery and of broccoli, and of other crops transplanted
during summer; and particularly the late crops of peas,
the irrigation of which tended to prevent mildew, and to
insure the preduction of healthy green peas during the
month of October. <A pipe of sufficient calibre should be
led from the pool or tank to the hot-houses, and to two or
three different stations in the garden. Well or spring
water should be exposed in reservoirs to the action of the
sun and air, when it becomes comparatively soft and salu-
brious for plants. As rain-water is found better than any
other for this purpose, all that can be collected should be
stored in cisterns and kept for use.

Connected with the situation is the approach to the
garden from without, a matter requiring some taste and
contrivance. If possible, it should be from the south,
when the range of glazed houses, always fronting towards
the south, will be seen at once, and produce a pleasing
effect. Sometimes a lateral entrance is very suitable,
leading it may be supposed, from the flower-garden through
an intermediate shrubbery, and coming upon the hot-houses
in flank. It is delightful to be introduced at once and by
surprise into a Slip, as it is called, where on the one hand
there is an extent of wall covered with luxuriant fruit-trees
in full bearing, and on the other is displayed a rich collee-

2

26 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

tion of ornamental shrubs and large perennial border-
flowers.

Form.—The shape of a garden, it is obvious, must
chiefly be determined by the nature of the situation, and
the taste of the proprietor. In general, gardens are either
squares or oblongs, chiefly, it is presumed, because walls
of this configuration contain the greatest space within the
least perimeter, a result of very questionable value. They
may be of any form, with this limitation, that attention
should be paid to facilitating the transport of manures
and garden products, for when the grounds are straggling,
or complicated in structure, the labor of cultivation is
much increased.

Exterior Fence.—Most English gardens are encircled
by an outer boundary, formed by a sunk wall or ha-ha,
surmounted by an invisible wire-fence to exclude hares, or _
by a hedge or paling. Occasionally this sunk wall is
placed on the exterior of the screen plantations, and walks
lead out among the trees, to give favorable views of the
adjacent country. Although the interior garden necessa-
rily receives its form from the walls, the ring-fence and
plantations may, with propriety, be adapted to the shape
and surface of the ground. The spaces between the outer
fence and the walls are, as already noticed, called Sips,
and, where circumstances render it eligible, a considerable
extent of ground is sometimes included, and appropriated
to the culture of small fruits, and kitchen vegetables. If
possible, the gardener’s house should be situate here, as
being convenient for him, and as tending to scare depre-
dators.

Wadlls.—¥ or the production of the finer fruits, such as
peaches, apricots, figs, hardy grapes, and most of the
delicate French and Flemish pears, the aid of walls is in-

WALLS. 27

dispensable in the English climate. Indeed, in the north-
ern and higher parts of that country, where there is no
walled garden, the dessert can seldom consist of more than
small fruits, such as gooseberries, with some apples and
pears. So valuable in this respect are walls, that it is
perhaps a matter of surprise that they have not been mul-
tiplied by the erection of slight and cheap structures,
such as are common in the peach-gardens in France. The
north inclosure wall having, towards the interior of the
garden, a south aspect, is of course appropriated to the
more tender kind of fruit-trees; here, it is generally esti-
mated, they enjoy an increased temperature equal to 7°
of south latitude. The east and west walls are set apart
for fruits of a somewhat hardier character; while the inner
face of the south inclosure wall, having a north aspect, is
well adapted for retarding Morella cherries and currants.
In the United States, walls are not indispensable, although
often beneficial.

The north inclosure wall is generally placed nearly per-
pendicular to the meridian, that is, so as to have the sun di-
rectly in front at 12 0’clock. Minute directions have indeed
been given to make it face towards 11 or 11 1-2 A.M., on
the ground that thus it would sooner meet the rays of the
morning sun; but it does not appear that this arrangement
has been the subject of direct experiment, and certainly
the arguments by which the superiority of this aspect is
supported are far from being satisfactory. The east and
west walls are commonly placed at right angles to that
already mentioned, but they may follow the shape of the
ground, and if this slope to the south, they descend with
the declivity. The south inclosure wall affords on the out-
side a valuable aspect to the south, which is deserving of
particular attention, the finest fruit being often here pro-

28 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

duced. It is presumed that all the walls are to be covered,
both within and without, with trees trained en espalier.

Different portions of the inclosure wall are always built
of different heights, and this variation of height is the
more necessary when the ground approaches toalevel. In
such a situation, and when the inclosure does not exceed
two acres, the north wall may rise to the elevation of 14
feet; the walls on the east and west may be two feet lower,
and the south wall need not exceed 10 feet. In larger
gardens, the walls are generally made proportionally higher :
on the north, perhaps, 16 feet, on the east and west 14,
and on the south 12. In several excellent Scottish gar-
dens, planned by the late Mr. Hay, such as that at Castle
Semple, a piece of building is made to project diagonally
outwards from the corners where the walls meet at right
angles. This projection is 16 or 17 feet in length. It
serves to strengthen the fabric, and at the same time, acts
as a brise-vent, breaking the force of the winds which sweep
around walled gardens.

Walls inclined to the horizon have been recommended
by Desaguliers, Hoffels, and others; but, independently
of the theoretical objections which might be urged against
them, and which, in actual practice, would probably coun-
terbalance their supposed advantages, they must be incon-
venient from their bulk, or the large space which they oc-
cupy; and hence they have never come into general use.
Where, however, the natural slope of the ground is too
great for carrying on the ordinary operations of gardening,
sloping terraces may advantageously be converted into a
kind of inclined wall, to be faced with slate or some other
material that does not readily absorb moisture.

Bricks afford the best and the most kindly material for
garden-walls. Being rough and porous they absorb radiant

WALLS. 99

caloric, and, being bad conductors, they accumulate heat ;
when thus rendered warmer than the ambient air, they
rapidly part with the extra heat, and maintain the temper-
ature amid the branches nailed to the wall; they do not
retain moisture, and, by their numerous interstices, they
furnish every facility for nailing in the twigs of the fruit-
trees. Where freestone (that is, sandstone capable of
being easily dressed) is abundant, the exterior wall is often
formed of coursed masonry, and the interior is faced with
bricks. The foundation should, if possible, be formed of
stone. Whimstone (that is, either the greenstone or the
basalt of mineralogists) forms an excellent material for
fruit-walls. It is susceptible of a neat hammer-dressing ;
it does not readily imbibe moisture, and therefore is not
much cooled by evaporation; and being of a very dark
color, it absorbs more solar heat during sunshine than a
lighter surface, while at night the radiation from both is
nearly the same. Different parts of the principal fruit-
wall of the Horticultural Society’s Garden at Edinburgh
are built of brick, of freestone, and of greenstone; and
the plants trained against the greenstone portion have
evinced, by their growth and earlier maturity, that they
enjoy a somewhat superior temperature.

For the preservation of the walls, a coping is necessary ;
and it seems a matter of indifference whether it be formed
of stones with a rounded surface, or of flat pavement, or
of tiles. Probably it should not project more than an inch,

though some contend for a larger measure, on the ground
of its preventing to some extent the radiation of heat from
the tree towards the sky in clear nights, and thus favoring
the deposition of dew. Temporary copings of wood are
often adopted, and are found to answer every good purpose.
They are put on in spring to protect the tender blossom

30 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

and embryo fruit from the hoarfrost, and when danger is
past are removed to give free access to the genial showers
and sunshine of summer and autumn.

Hot Wadlls——A considerable proportion of the walls of
every good garden, especially in the north, should be con-
structed with flues to supply the means of applying arti-
ficial heat. The additional expense is trifling; and, in
cold seasons and cold situations, the aid of this species of
wall is nearly indispensable for the regular ripening of
grapes, apricots, and figs, as exemplified at Erskine House
on the Clyde, where, with the assistance of a little fire-
heat, large and high-flavored black Hamburgh grapes are
produced, and where Mayduke cherries have been ripened
at least six weeks before the usual period. The application
of fire-heat for a few weeks in spring will secure the setting
of the fruit, and the same operation continued for a short
time in autumn will suffice to ripen it, and also to prepare
the young wood for the next year. The flues may be about
twenty inches deep, and should make as many horizontal
turns as the height of the wall will permit. One furnace
will be enough for a surface fifty feet in length. When
the boundary walls do not furnish room sufficient for the
production of the finer fruits, cross walls are built athwart
the garden from east to west, of the same height as the side
walls, to which they nearly approach. They are generally
flued, and are sometimes furnished, on their southern
aspect, with sloping glazed frames, either fixed or movable.
These cross walls add greatly to the capabilities of a fruit-
garden, and are useful in affording additional shelter to the
small fruits and crops of vegetables in the culinary quarters.

Espalier-Rails.—Subsidiary to walls as a means of train-
ing fruit-trees, espalier-rails were formerly much employed,
and they still prevail in many parts of England. In their

ESPALIER-RAILS—SOIL. 31

simplest form, they are merely a row of slender stakes of
ash or Spanish chestnut, driven into the ground, and con-
nected by a slight rod or fillet at top. In some gardens
the perpendicular rods are fastened inte two -horizontal
rails, supported by strong posts, which are battened into
stones. Cast-iron rails have also been proposed. The
framework is sometimes inclined to the horizon, or adapted
to a sloping bank, as in the gardens of the Earl of Selkirk,
at St. Mary’s Isle; where some of the trees, although so
trained more than sixty years ago, are still in a healthy
condition, bearing abundant crops of fruit. In other cases
the framework is placed flat like a table, and when there is
plenty of room, this proves a good arrangement. Hspalier-
rails, especially the more elaborate sorts, are expensive and
formal; and, therefere, in many instances, have given place
to dwarf standard trees, which are equally productive, and
far more elegant in their appearance.

Sor/.—It is of great importance that the ground select-
ed for a garden should be naturally of a good quality. <A
hazel-colored loam, of a light or sandy texture, is well
adapted for most crops, whether of fruits or culinary vege-
tables. Porosity is indispensable not only for the transmis-
sion of moisture, but of air, to the roots of plants. As it
is more easy to render a light soil sufficiently retentive
than to make a tenacious clay sufficiently porous, a light
soil is preferable to one which is excessively stiff and heavy.
It is advantageous to possess a variety of soils; and if the
garden be on a slope, it will often be practicable to render
the upper part light and dry, while the lower remains of a
heavier and damper nature. The soil should be good to
the depth of two feet, and any necessary additional deep-
ening by manures or otherwise should not be neglected.
The nature of the subsoil demands particular attention. If

32 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

it be strongly impregnated with metallic substances, or
composed of cold wet clay, it will prove pernicious to the
roots of fruit-trees, and will scarcely admit of a remedy.
A decomposing rock, or a bed of sand, is preferable.
Perhaps the best of all is a dry bed of clay, overlaying
sandstone, which crops out within the general inclosure.
If the inferior strata be retentive, and if water lodge in any
part of the garden, draining should be carefully executed,
so as to carry off the superfluous moisture.

Preparatory to the distribution of the several parts of a
garden, it is proper that the ground be trenched to the
depth of two feet at least; but the deeper the better. In
this operation all stones larger than a man’s fist are to be
taken out, and all roots of trees, and of perennial weeds,
are carefully to be extracted and cleared away. When the
soil is not tolerably good to the depth of two feet, it will
generally be proper to remove a portion of the subsoil;
and its place should be made up by a proportional quantity
of turf or fresh loam from the fields. If the subsoil be
gravel, and the upper layer sandy, the additional earth
should be clayey loam, or the scourings of ditches; but if
the original body of soil be of a compact texture, the ma-
terials introduced should be mixed with sand, marl, and
other light opening substances. When the whole ground
has been thus treated, a moderate liming will, in general,
be useful. After this, supposing the work to have occupied
most of the summer and autumn, the whole may be laid up
in ridges, and left in this state for several months, to ex-
pose as great a surface as possible to the action of the
winter’s frost. The draining, trenching, and other opera-
tions here recommended, will unavoidably be attended with
considerable expense, and this expense will not immediately

be followed by any perceptible beneficial result. The lapse

DRAINING, MANURES, ETC. 33

of a few years, however, will develop the vast advantages
of such a mode of procedure, which, if it have been neglect-
ed at first, cannot be practiced ata subsequent period but
with indifferent success, and not without an increase of cost
and labor.

Manures, §-c.—In enumerating the general appendages
of gardens, it may be proper to say something of manures ;
but we do not consider it necessary to enter into minute
details on this subject. Where there are extensive melon-
grounds, an abundance of stable and other litter 1s re-
quired; and this substance, in its partially decomposed
state, as afforded by exhausted hot-beds, supplies a manure
well adapted to aid the processes of vegetation. Decayed
leaves, which are plentiful where there are extensive plea-
sure-grounds, and which should be carefully swept together,
and collected into a heap in the autumnal months, also
form an excellent manure for many purposes. Some prac-
tical men prefer composts to simple dungs, or such sub-
stances as have undergone fermentation. Jor fruit-trees,
turf from rich pastures, mixed with vegetable earth, is per-
haps the best stimulant that can be applied. It is ques-
tionable whether any sort of trees are permanently benefited
by the application of crude manures to their roots; and it
is certain that many have been irremediably injured by
this practice. But whatever caution may be necessary in
their use, the prudent horticulturist will find it expedient
to pay constant attention to the collection and accumula-
tion of manures, Liquid manures, or the drainings of
the stable and cow-house, are valuable, yet too often
neglected. To fix the ammonia, Professor Liebig recom-
mends their being passed through a filter, formed of frag-
ments of gypsum, which should be occasionally renewed.
The garden cannot go on long without manures; for ground

2

34 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN,

which is exhausted by continual cropping requires to be
continually repaired. A compartment for the preparation
of manure, and storing of vegetable, and heathy, or other
soils, is necessary; and part of it should be covered with a
shed, so that moderately dry earth may not be wanting for
the early forcing of cucumbers and melons in the spring,
and for similar purposes.

Internal Arrangement.—In gardens of the superior
class, a considerable portion of the north wall, or of the
cross-wall, is covered in front with glazed structures, called
hot-houses or forcing-houses. To these the houses for or-
namental plants are sometimes attached; but the last are
more appropriately situate in the flower-garden, when that
forms a separate department. It is well, however, that
everything connected with the forcing, whether of fruits or
flowers, should be concentrated in one place. Where there
is a melonry, and other smaller pine-pits, these should
occupy some well-sheltered spot in the slip, or on one side
of the garden, and, if possible, in the neighborhood of the
stable-yard. Adjoining to this may be found a suitable
site for the compost ground, in which various kinds of soils
may be kept in store, and composts may be prepared, as
already hinted.

Extensive gardens, in exposed situations are often divided
into compartments by hedges, so disposed as to break the
force of winds. Where these are required to be lofty, yet
narrow, holly, yew, or beach are preferred; but if space be
no object, common laurel is one of the most beautiful
plants that can be employed for this purpose. Small
hedges may be formed of evergreen privet, or of tree-box.
These subordinate divisions, though often neglected, are
worthy of attention; for, in addition to shelter, they fur-
nish shade from the sun’s rays, which at certain seasons is

WALL-BORDERS—ORCHARDS. =AS,

peculiarly desirable, and they obviate the chilling effects
of radiation to a considerable extent.

The laying out of the area of the garden in walks, bor-
ders, and compartments, may be regulated very much by
the shape of the ground, and the taste of the owner. In
general, a gravel walk, six or eight feet broad, is led quite
around the garden, both within and without the walls. <A
walk of similar dimensions is often constructed in the cen-
tre of the garden in the direction of the glazed houses, and
this is sometimes crossed by another at right angles. At
times these walks are led diagonally from the corners.
The space between the wall and the walk that skirts it is
called the wall-border, and is commonly from fifteen to
twenty feet broad. On the interior of the walk there is
usually another border five or six feet broad, which is gen-
erally occupied by fruit-trees trained to espalier rails, or
by dwarf-fruit trees. The middle part of the garden is
divided into rectangular compartments for the raising of
the various culinary crops. These compartments may be
divided by rows of moderate-sized fruit trees, or of goose-
berry and currant bushes. Standard fruit-trees, however,
soon grow so large as to shade so much ground, that they
cannot be allowed except where the garden is very large.
It is advantageous, to form several small beds, in which to
cultivate the less bulky articles, such as basil, sage, tarra-
gon, spearmint and thyme, which, in large spaces, are apt
to be overlooked or neglected.

Waill-borders.—The preparation of borders for fruit-
trees is a matter of the utmost importance, and no pains
should be spared in this essential operation. Where bor-
ders are not in good condition, the care and toil of the
most experienced gardener will avail but little toward the
production of fruit. The first object is effectual draining.

36 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

The next if the subsoil be indifferent, is the confining the
trees to the good surface soil, by the formation of a bottom
impervious to their roots. This is sometimes done with
stone-shivers and lhme-rubbish, or with coal-ashes and clay,
compacted by treading with the feet, and beating with the
back of a spade. Loudon recommends successive layers,
an inch thiek, of clean gravel, pulverized earth, and then
gravel, well watered and firmly compressed by means of a
heavy roller. Good soil to the depth of two feet and a
half, or three feet, is placed over this impervious bottom.
Three-fourths rich loam, and one-fourth light sandy earth,
form a mixture congenial to the generality of fruit-trees.
In selecting the soil, regard may be had to the particular
trees which are to cover different portions of the wall.
Thus a heavy soil may be allotted to pears and plums;
loam of a medium character, inclining to be strong, to
peaches, nectarines, and apricots; anda lighter earth to
cherries and figs. Above all, care should be taken to ren-
der the borders sufficiently rich and substantial. Whilst
every skilful horticulturist may, in various ways, reduce
the luxuriance of his trees, nothing can compensate for ex-
treme poverty in the soil. The same principle will dictate
moderation in cropping wall-borders with culinary vegeta-
bles; a practise in which gardeners are apt to exceed from
a desire to furnish very early crops of peas, turnips, cab-
bage, or potatoes. Lettuce, endive, or small sallad plants,
do little harm.

Orchards.—W ithin the limits of the greater proportion
of large gardens, such a number of dwarf standard trees
may be planted as will prove sufficient to afford a supply
of fruit for an ordinary family. Where, however, this is
not the case, it is desirable that there should be a separate
orchard. A situation similar to’ that of a garden, and the

FRUIT GARDEN, oY.

same preparatory operations, are necessary ; but a simple
hedge will, in most situations, suffice for a fence. The
trees may here be on free stocks and trained as high stan-
dards, and the taller growing pears and apples are best
suited for a large orchard. Thoresby, in his Diary under
date of March 1702, mentions as a novelty, an orchard,
‘“‘kept in the new order of dwarf trees,” evidently intima-
ting that dwarf standards were introduced from Holland by
the Prince of Orange at the time of the revolution. When
an additional supply of culinary vegetables is required,
they may be cultivated in the orchard; and then the trees
should be planted in rows, with considerable intervals be-
tween the rows, otherwise the close quincunx order is pre-
ferable. In any circumstances, the trees should not be
choked up with currant and gooseberry bushes, as is too
common in market gardens. A few plums and cherries
are commonly introduced; and on the margin may be
planted walnuts, chestnuts, filberts, and any others less
commonly cultivated, or the fruit of which is not much in
demand. The whole should be effectually screened from
the prevailing winds, by rows of forest trees; at a suffi-
cient distance, however, to prevent shading by their branch-
es, or the robbing of the soil by their roots.

FRUIT GARDEN.

We shall first direct our attention to the culture of
hardy fruits, or of such as, in the climate of England, and
the United States, do not to an extensive degree, require
the assistance of artificial heat. But before proceeding to
a minute detail of the management of the different varie-
ties, it may be proper to attend to some of the operations
which are common to all.

38 FRUIT GARDEN.

Preliminary Operations

may be classed under the heads Propagation, Planting,
Training, and Protection of Blossom.

Propagation by Seed.—Although fruit-trees are fur-
nished with all the natural means of reproduction, it is not
in general expedient to attempt to propagate them by the
sowing of seed. This method is found to be equally tedious
and precarious, requiring the labor of a good many years,
and very rarely producing an exact copy of the fruits from
which the seeds are taken. The chief reason of the varia-
tion is pretty obvious; the blossoms of different varieties
of the same species of fruit are commonly expanded, at the
same period of time, in the neighborhood of each other, and
the pollen of one kind is thus extremely apt to be trans-
ferred, by the agency of bees and other insects, to the
stigma of another kind. If, therefore, we desire to pro-
cure uncontaminated seed of an excellent variety, such as
the Ribston apple, we ought to encircle the blossom-bud
with a fine gauze bag, sufficiently wide to allow the blos-
som to expand, and not remove the covering till the fruit
be fairly set. Another source of variation is to be found
in the influence of the stock upon the graft, which is real,
though not easily detected, except in extreme cases (such
as grafting Scotch apples upon stocks of the Russian trans-
parent, and finding the former acquiring the transparent cha-
racter). To obviate this the tree should stand on its own
bottom, or be struck from a cutting. All our present ad-
mired fruits are regarded as seminal varieties obtained
from the wild inhabitants of the forests; they have been
trained into an artificial condition, and when sown seem to
have a tendency to resume their original constitution. In

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 39

the peach-orchards of America, for instance, which are
planted with the kernels of choice sorts, there are seldom
more than a few trees affording fruit fit for the table, the
produce of the majority being so worthless that it is usual-
ly employed for feeding hogs. Notwithstanding this em-
barrassing circumstance, there are some considerations
which render this mode of propagation at once interesting
and important to horticulturists. It is the only way by
which we can procure new kinds to supply the place of
those which are falling into decay; and to some extent it
affords the means of adapting the more tender sorts to the
rigor of our climate.

Tt is well known that some of the favorite cider ap-
ples of the seventeenth century have become extinct,
and others are fast verging into decrepitude; and hence
the conclusion has been drawn, that all our present
fruits, as they are artificial in their constitution, -are
also limited in their duration. Each variety spring-
ing from an individual at first, however extended by
grafting or budding, partakes of the qualities of the
individual ; and where the original is old, there is in-
herent in the derivatives the tendency to decay incident to
old age. It is assumed that all the individual trees of any
given variety, such as the Golden Pippin, or the Gray
Leadington, are in a lax sense equivalent to one indivi-
dual. By careful management, the health and life of this
composite individual may be prolonged; and grafts insert-
ed into vigorous stocks, and nursed in favorable situations,
may long survive their parent tree; still there is a sure
progress towards extinction, and the only renewal of the
individual, the only true reproduction, is by sowing seed.
It is admitted by those who have paid attention to the

40 FRUIT GARDEN.

subject, that this curious principle of vegetable economy
holds true, at least in so far as regards fruit trees.

The late Mr. Knight, (to whom this ingenious theory is
due,) conceived the idea of supplying the lack of fine old
varieties by semination. It further occurred to him, that
advantage might be taken of that tendency which plants ex-
hibit on repeated sowings, to adapt themselves to the cli-
mates in which they are raised, so that trees of warmer
countries may thus become habituated to colder regions.
He therefore devoted much of his attention to the produc-
tion of improved and robust varieties; and his zeal and
labors have been rewarded by the Acton Scott Peach, the
Ingestrie and Downton Apples, and. many others, in al-
most every sort of hardy fruit. Mr. Knight entertained
the opinion, deduced, we may presume, from experiment,
that more is to be expected from hybrid varieties, than
from the mere reproduction of old kinds; he therefore had
recourse to the nice operation of dusting the pollen of one
kind on the pistil of another. He opened the unexpanded
blossom of the variety destined to be the female parent of
the expected progeny, and with a pair of fine-pointed scis-
sors, cut away all the stamens, while the anthers were yet
unripe, taking care to leave the style and the stigma unin-
jured. When the female blossom, thus prepared, came
naturally to expand, the blossoms of the other variety des-
tined to be the male parent were applied. - Mr. Knight
has often remarked in the progeny a strong prevalence of
the constitution and habits of the female parent: in this
country, therefore, in experimenting on pears, the pollen
of the more delicate French kinds, such as (Crasanne,)
Colmar, and Chaumontelle, should be dusted upon the
flowers (always deprived of stamens) of the Muirfowl egg,

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 41

the Grey Achan, the Green Yair, or others, that are hardy,
or of British origin.

As this is a subject of interest, we may state some of the
precautions adopted by Mr. Knight and his followers, in
conducting their experiments. It is, in the first place, a
rule to employ seeds of the finest kinds of fruit, and to
take them from the largest, ripest, and best flavored speci-
mens of the fruit. When Mr. Knight wished to procure
some of the old apples ina healthy and renovated state, he
prepared stocks of such good sorts as could be propagated
from cuttings; he planted them against a south wall in
rich soil, and then grafted them with the kind required.
In the following winter the young trees were taken up,
their roots retrenched, and then replanted in the same
place, by which mode of treatment they were thrown into
bearing when only two yearsold. Not more than a couple
of apples were allowed to remain on each tree, and these,
in consequence, attained a larger size and more perfect
maturity. Theseeds of these apples were then sown, in
the hope of procuring an equally excellent offspring. In
the case of cross-impregnation, every seed, though taken
from the same fruit, produces a different variety, and these
varieties, as might be anticipated, prove to be of very vari-
ous merit. In general those seeds are to be preferred
which are plump and round. An estimate of the value of
the seedling trees may be formed, even during the first
summer of their growth, from the resemblance they bear,
in bud and foliage, to highly cultivated and approved trees.
The leaves of promising seedlings improve in character,
becoming thicker, rounder, and more downy every season.
Those whose buds in the annual wood are full and promi-
nent, generally prove more productive than those whose
buds are small and seemingly shrunk into the bark, Early

42 FRUIT GARDEN.

flowering and hardy blossoms are desirable characters. It
has been observed, that even after a seedling tree has com-
menced bearing, its fruit has a tendency to improve as the
tree itself acquires vigor, so that, if, in the first season,
there is any considerable promise, a great melioration may
be expected in succeeding years.

The slowness with which seedlings reach the bearing
state has been the subject of complaint among horticultur-
ists, and indeed is the principal reason why this mode of
propagation has not been more frequently practiced.
According to Mr. Knight, the pear requires from twelve to
eighteen years to reach the age of puberty ; the apple from
five to twelve or thirteen years; the plum or cherry four or
five; the vine three or four; the raspberry two years.
The peach he found to bear in two, three, or four years.
The period, however, must depend greatly on the soil, situ-
ation, and mode of culture. In the warm and highly-
manured garden of M. Van Mons at Brussels (called
Pepini¢re de la Fidélité, 1816), seedling pear-trees pro-
duced fruit in considerable quantities in the sixth and
seventh summers. ‘The great means of accelerating the
epoch of bearing seems to be, to make the trees grow vigor-
ously when young. Crude manures are indeed to be
avoided ; but vegetable earth, and, above all, a liberal sup-
ply of rotted turf, are wholesome and excellent stimulants.
The seed-bed, and the ground on which the seedlings are
transplanted, should be extremely well worked and com-
minuted with the spade, and should not be too much ex-
posed to the parching rays of the sun and withering action
of the wind. Great care ought to be taken to prevent the
young plants from becoming stunted. In pruning, the
small twigs in the interior should be removed, so as to
relieve the tree from the bushy appearance which it is apt

PROPAGATION BY LAYERS. 43

to assume. It has been recommended to transfer cions and
buds of promising individuals into other trees in a bearing
state. This is peculiarly advantageous with respect to the
peach and other stone fruits, as it both hastens the period
of puberty, and economizes the space which must be occu-
pied, especially where these are on a wall.

| Propagation by Cuttings.—Gooseberries, currants, figs,
vines, and some others, are increased by means of cuttings.
An annual shoot is taken off along with a thin slice, or
heel, as it is called, of the former year’s wood, which is
found to facilitate the production of roots. The cuttings
are placed firmly in the soil, at various depths, according
to their length, the buds or eyes which would thus come
beneath the surface having been previously removed.
Vines are sometimes propagated from small pieces of shoots
having a single bud; when they have to be transmitted to
a distance, an inch in length may suffice. Most of the cod-
lin apples may be increased by cuttings; and even large
branches of those which produce du7s may be planted at
once, with success. In all deciduous trees the operation
is most advantageously performed in winter.

Propagation by Layers.—This is not much resorted to
in the fruit garden. It is occasionally employed as the
means of dwarfing trees. ‘‘ Laying,” says Professor
Lindley, “is nothing but striking from cuttings which are
still allowed to maintain their connection with the mother
plant by means of a portion at least of their stem.” The
operation is performed by bending down a branch to the
earth, and pinning it there with hooked pegs. A few
inches from the extremity a notch or slit is cut upwards,
generally from the insertion of a bud. Sometimes the
shoot is pierced with a number of holes; a wire is bound
round it; or even a ring of bark is removed, The object

44 FRUIT GARDEN.

of these expedients is to retard the descending sap, and
thus promote the formation of radicles, or young roots.
This is also aided by bending the branch upward from the
point at which the roots are wanted ; and the whole branch,
except a few buds at the extremity, is covered with soil.
The seasons best fitted for these operations are early in
spring and about midsummer, that is before the sap begins
to flow, and after it has completely ascended. One whole
summer, sometimes two summers, must elapse before the
layers can be expected to be fully rooted, or ready to be
taken off.

Propagation by Grafting —When a shoot or young
branch of one tree is inserted into the stem or branch of
another, and, by the influence of vegetation, is made to
coalesce with it, the process is termed grafting. In this
manner apple and pear-trees are commonly propagated ;
plum and cherry-trees are sometimes also grafted, but these
last are most generally propagated by budding. Our
attention must here be directed to the stocks into which the
shoots or cions, as they are called, are inserted; to the
cions themselves, and to the mechanical operations em-
ployed in grafting.

The stocks should be of the same genws to which the
graft belongs, or, at least, of close affinity in natural family.
The following are the principal kinds of stocks, including,
by anticipation, such as are used in budding. For apples,
seedlings of the crab apple, layers of the doucin or paradise,
and of the codlins, with cuttings of the bur-knot varieties,
For pears, seedlings of the common and wilding pear ; with
seedlings or layers of quince. For p/wms, seedlings of any
of the common sorts, particularly the Brussels and the
Brompton ; also the Bullace plum. For cherries, seea-
lings of the small black cherry or gean, Prunus Avium ;

é
PROPAGATION: BY GRAFTING. 45

and, for dwarfing, P. Mahaleb. For apricots, seedlings of
the wilding apricot, with the muscle and Brussels plum.
For peaches and nectarines, seedlings of the muscle, white
pear-plum, and Damas noir plum, the almond, and the
wilding peach.

Stocks are commonly divided into two classes, viz., free
stocks and dwarfing stocks. The former consist of seed-
ling plants, which naturally attain to the same size as the
trees from which the cions are taken. The latter are plants
of diminutive growth, either varieties of the same species,
or species of the same genus as the cion, which have a ten-
dency to lessen the expansion of the engrafted tree. The
Paradise or doucin is the usual dwarfing stock for apples,
the Quince for pears, the Bullace for plums, and Prunus
Mahaleb (Cerasus Mahaleb, or sweet-scented cherry), for
cherries. The nature of the soil in which the grafted trees
are destined to grow should also have weight in determin-
ing the choice of stocks. When the garden is naturally
moist, it is proper to graft pears on the quince, because
this plant agrees with a moist soil, and at the same time
the luxuriance thereby produced is checked by the stock.
In France, peaches are commonly budded on almond stocks
to adapt them to the dry soils of that country. The seeds
from which stocks are to be raised are generally sown in
beds in March; but the germination of some kinds is pro-
moted by placing the seed for a time, in damp sand in a
green-house. Next season the seedlings are transplanted
into nursery rows, in which they are allowed to reach the
size necessary for the various forms of fruit-trees hereafter
to be mentioned.

The cion is always a portion of the wood of the preceding
year. As the diseases incident to fruit trees are apt to be
transmitted by this mode of propagation, it is desirable

46 FRUIT GARDEN.

that the parents should be as healthy as possible. In the
shy-bearing kinds it has been found beneficial to select
shoots from the fruitful branches. The cions should be
taken off some weeks before they be wanted, and half-buried
in the earth, as it is conducive to success that the stock
should, in forwardness of vegetation, be somewhat in
advance of the graft. During winter, grafts may be trans-
ferred from great distances, as from America, or any part
of the Continent of Europe, if carefully wrapped up in
hypnum moss. If they have been six weeks or two months
separated from the parent plant, they should be grafted
low on the stock, and the earth should be ridged up around
them, leaving only one bud of the cion above ground. Out
of forty cions of new Flemish pears, procured by the depu-
tation of the Caledonian Horticultural Society from Brus-
sels and Louvain, in 1817, and treated in this way, only
one failed.*

Success in grafting depends almost entirely on accu-
rately applying the inner bark of the cion to the inner bark
of the stock, so that the sap may pass freely from the one
to the other. They are therefore fitted together, and held
fast by a bandage of strips of bast-matting. ‘To lessen
evaporation, a portion of ductile clay is moulded around
_ the place of junction, and is retained until it appears, from
the development of leaves, that the operation has succeeded.
The best season for grafting is the month of March ; but it
may be commenced as soon as the sap in the stock is fairly
in motion, and may be continued during the first half of
April.

The most usual mode of grafting is called whip graft-

* Among these were Beurre Ranz, Marie Louise, Capiaumont, Napoleon,

Delices d'Hardenpont, Passe Colmar, and some others, which have acquired
a high character in this country.

PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING. 47

ing, or tongue grafting, a,b. The top of the stock and

the base of the cion are cut off obliquely at corresponding
angles, as nearly as can be guessed by the eye , the tip of
Fig. 1.

the stock is then cut off horizontally ; next a slit is made
downwards in the centre ‘of the sloping face of the stock,

Fig. 2.

and a corresponding slit upwards in the corresponding face
of the cion. The tongue or upper part of this sloping base

48 FRUIT GARDEN.

is then inserted into the cleft of the cion, and so adjusted
that the inner bark may unite neatly and exactly on one
side. The junction is then tied up and covered with clay.
Several other methods may be mentioned, such as cleft-
grafting, c, d, e,in which the cion is sloped at the base,
and inserted like a wedge into a cleft in the stock. Stde-
grafting, (Fig. 2), f, g, which resembles whip-grafting, but
is performed on the side of the stock without heading it
down. Crown-grafting, in which the cions, 7, p, are in-
serted between the bark and the wood of the stock. Graft-
ing by approach, or inarching, resembling the whip-graft-
ing, but the cion # remains attached to the parent plant,
till its union at & and @7 with the new stock 2 be complete;
when that portion of the stock above the union may be
headed down, and the cion at the same time detached from
the parent plant.

It is evident that the method of performing the opera-
tion may be diversified to a great extent. The late M.
Thouin, of Paris, described, in the Annales du Museum,
nearly fifty greffes ; but little practical utility results from
such nice distinctions. It is of great importance that the
horticulturist should be expert in the manipulation of the
more common forms, such as those above enumerated. An
extensive fruit garden requires a frequent repetition of the
operation, in order to secure proper kinds, and productive
branches. At Dalkeith Park, the late Mr. Macdonald, the
excellent head-gardener there, was in the practice of annual-
ly inserting, on his established trees, numerous grafts, and
by this means was enabled to overcome the disadvantages
of a somewhat unfavorable situation, especially in regard
to subsoil, and to obtain abundant crops of large and beau-
tiful fruit.

Root-grafting is performed in the modes just described,

PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 49

only placing the cion on a piece of root (as astalk,) of
proper thickness, and having fibres and fibrils attached to
it. In the most unfavorable soils, some sort of fruit-trees
thrive better than others; and it has been suggested, that
by using root-stocks of such flourishing trees, and grafting
other desirable kinds on them, canker may often be avoid-
ed, and the better kinds of fruit produced.

Propagation by Budding.—Most kinds of fruit-trees
may be propagated by budding; and there are some, such
as peaches and apricots, which can scarcely be multiplied
in any other manner. It consists in removing a bud with
a portion of the bark from one tree, and inserting it ina
slit of the bark of another tree. The season for perform-
ing this operation is in July or August, when the buds
destined for the following year are completely formed in
the axils of the leaves, and when the portion of bark parts
freely from the wood beneath. The buds to be preferred
are those on the middle of a youngshoot. There are many
forms of budding, but that which is simplest, and is gene-
rally practiced in this country, called Shzeld-budding, need
alone be described. The operator should be provided with
a budding-knife, in which the cutting edge of the blade is
rounded off at the point, and which has a thin ivory or
bone handle, like a paper-folder, for raising the bark of the
stock. A horizontal or transverse incision is made in the
bark quite down to the wood, and from this incision a per-
pendicular slit is drawn downwards, to the extent of per-
haps an inch. The slit (Fig. 3) has now a resemblance to
the letter T, g; a bud is then cut from the tree wished to
be propagated, having a portion of the wood attached to it,
so that the whole may be an inch and a halflong,asat s. The
bit ef wood is then gently withdrawn, care being taken that the
bud adhere whelly to the bark or shield, as it is called, as at 7,

3

50 FRUIT GARDEN.

which is the reverse of s. The bark on each side of the
perpendicular slit being cautiously opened with the handle
of the knife, the bud and shield are inserted, as at ¢. The

upper tip of the shield is cut off horizontally, and brought
neatly to fit the bark of the stock at the transverse incision.
Slight ties of moist bast-matting are then applied. In
about a month or six weeks the ligatures may be taken
away, when, if the operation have been successful, the bud
will be fresh and full, and the shield firmly united to the
wood. Next spring a strong shoot is thrown out, and to
this the stock is headed down im the course of the summer.

Planting.—After propagation, the next care is to trans-
fer the young trees to those places, whether in the open
border or against the wall, where they are to remain; and
it is of importance that these situations should be consider-
ably selected; adapting the trees, according to their cha-
racter and qualities, to sites suitable in respect of soil,
shelter, and aspect. Planting may be performed at any
time in the beginning of winter, or in the early spring
months; but it is considered that the most advantageous
seasons are immediately after the fall of the leaf in autumn,
and before the ascent of the sap in spring. The trees should

PLANTING. 51

be cautiously lifted from the nursery lines, carefully guard-
ing against the mutilation or bruising of the roots; and,
to prevent the desiccation of the fibres, they should be
planted as soon as possible after being lifted. When they
have to be carried to a distance, the roots should be en-
veloped in damp hypnum-moss. In the ground, which is
presumed to have been previously trenched or otherwise
prepared, pits or holes are formed, and the soil is finely
pulverized ; and in these the trees are placed, their roots
being spread out and intermingled with the earth. Shal-
low planting is strongly recommended; two or three
inches of soil being in general a sufficient covering. The
doucin or French paradise stocks are preferable for this
reason, that they throw out delicate fibres which readily
spread along the surface, instead of bundles of hard roots
which generally characterize crab stocks. On filling up
the hole, a surface of at least an equal size is mzdched,
that is, covered with dung or litter, so as to restrain
evaporation, and preserve moisture. In the case of wall-
trees, a space of five or six inches is usually left between
the stem at the insertion of the roots and the wall, to allow
for the effects of growth. Young standard trees are tied
to stakes, to prevent their roots being ruptured by the
wind-waving of the stems. During the dry weather of the
first summer, the trees should be watered from time to
time as occasion may require.

The selection and distribution of the different kinds of
fruit-trees is an important and interesting point in the
formation of a garden, Regard must necessarily be had
to local situation and climate, as the selection ought man-
ifestly to be different for a garden in the south-west of
England, and for one in Yorkshire or in Scotland. The
fincr varieties of French and Flemish pears require and

52 FRUIT GARDEN.

deserve a good aspect, as also the early sorts of cherries.
The later cherries, and the generality of plums, succeed
very well either on an east or west aspect in Scotland: and
here the mulberry requires the protection of a wall, and
several of the finer apples do not arrive at perfection with-
out it.

The wall-trees which are intended to be permanent are
ealled dwarfs, from their being grafted near the ground.
Between each of these, trees with tall stems, called rzders
in Scotland, are planted as temporary occupants of the
upper part of the wall. The riders should always be five
or six years trained in the nursery, in order that when they
are planted out they may come into bearing as speedily
as possible. The distance at which the permanent trees
are planted is to be reeulated by the known mode of growth
of the different sorts, and by the height of the wall. When
the walls are about twelve feet high, the following average
distances have been recommended :—F or vines, 10 or 12
feet; peach and nectarine-trees, from 15 to 20 feet; fig-
trees, 20 feet at least; apricots, from 15 to 24 feet; plums
and cherries, from 15 to 20 feet; pear-trees, 20 feet if on,
quince stocks, and 30 feet when on free stocks; apple-
trees, 12 feet if on paradise stocks, and 15 to 25 feet when
on free stocks. Where the walls are only seven or eight
feet high, the distance should be increased by nearly one-
fourth, as in this case the want of height must be compen-
sated by greater breadth.

Apples and pears make the best espalier rail-trees,
especially in Scotland. These should be of the more
robust sorts, and should be planted at the distance of 15
or 20 feet. Cherries and plums are sometimes introduced
into the espalier rail-row, but these succeed in those situa-

TRAINING OF STANDARDS. 53

tions only where they would do equally well or better as
standards.

In many excellent gardens, dwarf standards are prefer-
red to espalier rail-trees. They are placed along the inner
borders at 8 or 10 feet apart. When proper attention is
paid to such trees, the effect is very pleasing, each being in
itself a handsome object, and generally clothed with fine
fruit. Where the situation is warm, and the climate
favorable, a few of such of the finer pear-trees as have
hardy blossoms should be planted out in this form. Though
they may fail to ripen their fruit in some seasons, they will
often add greatly to the resources of the fruit-room, their
produce being frequently superior in flavor to the pears
grown against walls.

Training.—Two functions belong to training—that,
namely, which modifies the form of the trees, and that
which regulates the bearing wood, and consequently the
supply of blossom. ‘The latter, more accurately termed
pruning, being of a varied character, adapted to the habits
of the different kinds of fruit-trees, will more properly
fall to be considered when treating of the peach, pear,
plum, &c.; at present we shall make a few remarks on the
former. The essential properties of training are, that it
should be simple, not requiring frequent amputation of
large branches; that it should be appropriate to the growth
of the tree, and such as to promote the production of fruit.
The knife is the great instrument in training, and whoever
ean wield it skilfully will have a perfect command over his
trees: at the same time, it may be laid down as a maxim,
that it should be used with some degree of reserve, as
nothing is more prejudicial to the health and fruitfulness
of all sorts of trees than severe and injudicious cutting.

Traiming of Standards.—Orchard-trees are generally

54 FRUIT GARDEN.

worked in the nurseries with stems five or six feet high.
All that is necessary in pruning trees of this sort, is merely
to cut out the branches which cross or press upon one
another. Bushy heads should be thinned out, and those
which are too lax cut back. Three or four leading branches
may be selected, to pass ere long into boughs, and form a
handsome skeleton for the tree; but it is useless to be
over-nice in this matter, as these branches will soon grow
beyond the power or regulation of the pruner, and of any
artificial system which he may adopt. Dwarf standards
being more accessible, are more under the dominion of
training. When worked on paradise stocks, they may be
kept not much superior in size to gooseberry bushes, and
in a state of abundant fruitfulness. The more fanciful
Dutch modes of training apple-trees in the cup and the

Fig. 4. Fig. 5.

TRAINING. 55

ball fashion, and after many other curious devices, have
never been relished in Britain. In this country they are
generally allowed to grow en bwzesson, that is, as bushes.
For Pears, the French forms, en pyramide, or pyramid
shape (Hig. 4), and ex guenouddlle, or distaff shaped (Fig. 5),
are justly gaining ground.

Training of Espaler Rat-Trees.—The usual form is
the horizontal; that is, from an upright stem, branches
are led right and left along the raily. Some prefer having
two stems, thus diverting the upright current of the sap
into twe channels, and producing a somewhat lower growth,
which is favorable to fruitfulness. Hspalier rail-trees have
a uniform tendency to throw out a luxuriant crop of up-
right summer shoots; and this is to be prevented by dis-
budding, or rubbing off numerous buds, as they appear
from April till June. Close well-placed spurs are encour:
aged, as from these the fruit is expected. _

Training of Wall-Trees.—A. fruit-tree planted against
a wall is evidently in a constrained and artificial situation,
from which it makes continual efforts to escape. Much
attention is necessary to repress this tendency, which, were
it permitted to act, would disfigure the tree, and neutralize
the advantages of a wall, without imparting in their place
the freedom of a standard in the open ground. To be
successful, the operator should be acquainted with the
theory of vegetation, should study the mode of growth in
different trees, and, above all, remember the purpose of ail
training, viz., the eliciting of bearing wood.

One great difficulty is to preserve equilibrium in the
growth of the several parts of the same tree: for the at-
tainment of this object, excellent hints are to be found in
the Pomone Francais: we shall mention only two or
three. A shoot will grow more vigorously whilst waving

56 FRUIT GARDEN,

in the air than when nailed close to the wall; a weak shoot
should therefore be left free, whilst a stronger antagonist
should be restrained. A shoot diverging only slightly
from the perpendicular will, other things being equal, ob-
tain amore copious supply of sap than one that is laid out
horizontally, or is deflected downwards. A luxuriant
shoot may be retarded for some time, by having its tender
extremity pinched off, and a weaker brother thus allowed
to overtake it. By these and other expedients, which will
suggest themselves to an attentive horticulturist, and by
the prudent use of the knife, it will be easy to execute the
following forms, which, on account of their simplicity and
general excellence, we select out of many to be found
detailed in works on gardening. .

The horizontal form (Vig. 6) has long been a favorite in
this country, having been strongly recommended in the
excellent work of Mr. Hitt.* There is one principal
ascending stem, from which the branches depart at right
angles, at intervals of ten inches or a foot. In order to
produce this form, the vertical shoot is, in trees of ordi-

* Treatise on Fruit-Trees, by Thomas Hitt, 8vo. 1756.

TRAINING. 57

nary vigor, cut back every winter to within fourteen inches
of the highest pair of branches; a number of shoots are
produced in the beginning of each summer, out of which
three are selected: one is trained in the original direction
of the stem, and one on each side of it, parallel to the base
of the wall. By pinching off the point of the leading
shoot about midsummer, another pair may be obtained in
autumn. In luxuriant trees, the vertical shoot may be
left two feet in length, by which means, and by summer
pruning, four pairs of branches may sometimes be added in
one season. The great object, at first, ought to be to
draw the stem upwards: when it has reached the top of
the wall, it is made to devaricate into two, and the tree,
thus completed as to its height, is henceforth suffered to
increase in breadth only. Horizontal training is best
adapted to those trees which produce strong shoots, as the
Ribston Pippin apple, or the Gansel’s Bergamot pear.
For the more twiggy kinds, the form represented in Fig. 7
is more suitable. In this the horizontal branches are
eighteen or twenty inches distant, and the small shoots
are trained in between them, either on both sides, as below

a Fig. 7. b

58 FRUIT GARDEN.

letter a in the figure, or on the under side and downwards
as below 6. This last is an excellent method of reclaim-
ing neglected trees of this description. Kvery alternate
branch being taken away, and the spurs cut off, the young
shoots are trained in, and soon produce good fruit. It is
rather singular that the late M. Thouin, in his account of
the Ecole d@ Horticulture practique du Museum, classes
the horizontal form among /es tadl/es heteroclites, and says,
that, in consequence of its invariably producing a zéte de
saule, that is, a hedge of young shoots at the top, it has
been long since abandoned. From this remark, we cannot
help drawing the conclusion, that in France, the theory of
training must be in advanceof the practice.

The other principal form is called fan-traiming. In this
there is no leading stem, and the branches are arranged
somewhat like the spokes of a fan. Fig. 8 represents this
shape as it commonly occurs in gardens. In the case of
apple and pear-trees, this mode, though frequently adopted,
is not superior, perhaps not even equal, to the horizontal

configuration: it is evident, that when the branches reach
. the top of the wall, where they must be cut short, a ¢éce

\

e
TRAINING. 59

de saule is mevitable. It would be better to adopt the
modification of the fan shape used for stone fruits (Fig. 9);

Fig. 9

to establish a certaim number of mother branches, and on
these to form a series of subordinate members, chiefly
composed of bearing wood. The mother branehes or
limbs should net be numerous, but well marked, equal in
strength, and regularly disposed. The side branches
should be pretty abundant, short, and not so vigorous as
to rival the leading members. To insure regularity, train-
ing should commence with maiden plants, or such as have
only one year’s growth from the graft; leaders of equal
strength should be selected, and encouraged to grow out
longitudinally as much as possible, and all crowding among
the inferior shoots should be prevented. In riders, this
form passes into the stellar arrangement. The French
have made considerable improvements in this mode of ©
training, some of which will be noticed under the article
Peach. :
Intermediate between horizontal and fan-training is the
half-fan, described in the first volume of the Caledonian
Horticultural Society’s Memowrs, by Mr. Smith, gardener

é
60 FRUIT GARDEN.

at Hopetoun-House, and practiced by him with great suc-
cess. It is nearly allied to the horizontal form, but the
branches form an acute angle with the stem, and this dispo-
sition is supposed to favor the equal distribution of the sap.
In the winter pruning, three and sometimes four central
branches are cut back; the shoots which arise from these
are arranged in the fan order, and, as they elongate, are
gradually brought into the horizontal position. The tree
is finished at top as in the horizontalform. Sometimes, as
in Fig. 10, two vertical stems are adopted. For vigorous
trees, this figure seems to combine the advantages of both
the foregoing varieties.

The choice of particular modes of training is too often —
determined by mere fashionable prejudice, which leads to
the application of the same form to all sorts of trees.
Thus the French are apt to reduce everything to the fan
system, while some English horticulturists are inclined to
force trees of the most rambling growth into the pillory of a
horizontal arrangement. Such a uniformity cannot possi-
bly be in accordance with nature. The enlightened culti-
vator will employ various forms, and will determine for

TRAINING. ° 61

himself which is the most appropriate, not only for every
species, but even for each particular variety of fruit-tree.
By attentive observation and rational experiment, more
knowledge in this department may be attained in a few
years than by a whole life spent in routine practice.

As supplementary to the preceding remarks on training,
some of the expedients for inducing a state of fruitfulness
in trees may be mentioned. Of these, the most common is
root-pruning, or the cutting back of the roots to within
three or four feet of the stem; an operation which is gene-
rally found efficacious when barrenness proceeds from over-
luxuriance and too copious a supply of sap. Another is,
the lifting up of the roots carefully, spreading them out on
the surface, and covering them with a layer of fresh soil,
forming a slight mound, at the same time all naked or fibre-
less roots being-cut out. To attain the same end, recourse
is sometimes had to 77mging the branches or stem, that is,
removing a narrow portion of the bark, so as to produce
the appearance of an annular incision. The trees, it is said,
are thereby not only rendered productive, but the quality of the
fruit is at the same time apparently improved. The advan-
tage is considered as depending on the obstruction given to
the descent of the sap, and it being thus more copiously
afforded, in its elaborated state, for the supply of the buds.
The ring should therefore be made in spring, and of sucha
width that the bark may remain separated for the season.
It ought to be observed, however, that none of the stoned
fruit-trees are benefitted by ringing. Analogous to this
practice is decortication, or the removing of the old cracked
bark from the stems of apple and pear-trees, a practice
warmly recommended by the late Mr. Lyon of Edinburgh,
and some other cultivators, but which has never been
extensively adopted. Sometimes barrenness proceeds from

62 FRUIT GARDEN.

defect of climate and poverty of soil; in which case a more
sheltered situation and more generous treatment are the
most effectual remedies. Fruit trees should never, if pos-
sible, be allowed to become stunted ; for in this state they
produce only worthless fruit, and acquire a habit which
scarcely admits of melioration.

Protection of Blossom.—In our -variable climate, and
particularly in the northern and eastern parts of the coun-
try, it is very desirable that the horticulturist should be
provided with the means of defending the blossom of his
fruit-trees from the late frosts in spring. For this purpose
some cultivators partially cover their walls with branches
of spruce-fir or beech, or the fronds of the common braken
fern (Pteris aquilina), fastened firmly by several points of
attachment, to prevent rubbing. Others recommend frames
covered with bunting, osnaburgh or similar light fabrics,
set in a sloping position in front of the trees. Screens
formed of reeds have been used, and nettings of worsted-
yarn or of straw-ropes have been employed with good effect.
Whatever contrivance serves to interrupt radiation, though
it may not keep the temperature much above freezing, will
be found sufficient. Standard fruit-trees must be left to
their fate, and, indeed, from the lateness of their flowering,
they are generally more injured by blight, and by drench-
ing rains, which wash away the pollen of the flowers, than
by the direct effects of cold. In not a few cases it is found
very useful to promote the setting of blossom, by directly
applying it to pollen from flowers of some other tree of the
same species. /

Protection of Fruit.—If the blossom requires to be
guarded, equally so does the fruit, from the moment it be-
gins to color till it be plucked for the table. Wasps and.
other insect enemies are often ensnared by meang of phials

CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS. 63

half filled with watery syrup, and hung upon the trees.
Coverings of netting are employed to protect against the
ravages of small birds: and this is preferable to shooting
them ; for among these feathered enemies it must be cone
fessed with regret that not only the engaging Robin Red-
breast but the melodious Blackbird fall to be numbered,

CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS.

In proceeding to treat of the more special culture of the
inmates of a British or American fruit garden, we shall begin
with the more tender; but for details regarding these,
reference may, to a considerable extent, be made to the
Forcing department, in which alone many of the finer fruits
can be perfected.

The Grape Vine (Vitis vinifera) can scarcely be said
to be a hardy fruit in the English climate. In every case
it requires a good aspect; and north of York, a crop of des-
sevt grapes cannot be expected without the aid of a hot wall.
In the extreme south-west districts of England, grapes fit
for the manufacture of wine, perhaps equal in quality to
those in the north of France, might be produced on dwarf
standards; and there is abundant historical evidence
that productive vineyards once existed in that part of the
country.

In the London Horticultural Society’s Catalogue, 182
varieties of grapes. are enumerated. Some of those, how-
ever, have not as yet been well ascertained ; some are pro-
nounced indifferent, and others worthless. We shall name
only a few of those most deserving the attention of the cul-
tivator.

64 FRUIT GARDEN.

Miller’s Burgundy.—This sort is distinguished by the
hoary bubescence of its leaves. It is a black grape, with
short compact clusters, small round berries, and clear, high-
flavored juice. It is hardy, ripening completely on a south
wall.

Black Damascus.—Bunches large, with round berries
and exquisitely sweet juice. This desirable late variety
does not set well, and the bunches are improved by the
blossom being dusted with the pollen of some hardy
kind.

Frankenthal.—A valuable grape, nearly allied to the
Black Hamburgh. Bunches moderate in size, berries obo-
vate, flavor excellent. Although this is the kind which is
commonly trained against the open wall in Holland, it
seems to require a warm vinery in Scotland.

Frontignan (or Frontignac).—Several varieties under
this appellation, and distinguished by the names of black
(or purple Constantia), grizzly, red, and the white, are
mentioned by horticultural writers. They vary in color
and form of the cluster, The berries are round, the skin
thick, and the juice of a rich muscat flavor. They are all
of high excellence. The white (often called white Con-
stantia) is the most early.

Black Gibraltar, or Red Hamburgh of Lindley.—This
is an excellent grape, with large clusters and large dark red
berries, full of a sweet juice.

Black Hamburgh.—This is a well-known grape, of great
value, and perhaps more generally cultivated for the dessert
in this country than any other sort. It ought to be in every
collection.

Wilmot’s New Hamburgh, with remarkably large ber-
ries, very firm in flesh, but the bunches small and loose, and
not shouldered.

GRAPE-VINE. 65

Black Lombardy, or West’s St. Peter’s.—Bunches
large, berries round, skin thin, with a sweet flavor; an
excellent late sort. The fruit will hang on the vines till
March.

Royal Muscadine, of the L. Hort. Cat. or White Mus-
cadine of Lindley. The Chasselas of Paris. This, though
not a first-rate grape, comes early, and is a favorite with
many. Bunches large, berries white, round, with rich and
sweet juice.

Muscat of Alecandria.—Bunches long, and also broad-
shouldered, berries white and oval, with a delicious, very
rich, muscat flavor; wood reddish-brown; leaf large and
pendulous. This most admirable variety requires a high
temperature, and should properly have a small Lae for
itself.

The Canon Hall Muscat isa variety of the former ;
similar in general appearance but with larger leaves; clus-
ter setting thinner and more regularly, berries rather
longer and larger, flesh less firm, but rich flavored, and
ripening fully a fortnight earlier.

Pitmaston White Cluster—This excellent variety
sprang from a seed of the small black cluster grape. The
bunch is compact ; the berry is round, when ripe of an
amber color, bronzed with russet on one side. It comes to
perfection on the open wall in England, and is also well
suited for forcing.

White Tokay.—The bunch is small and not shi sedieced
the berries of a rich vinous flavor; wood white ; leaf stiff
and downy.

Large White Sweetwater.—Bunch loose, berries round,
flavor sweet. It ripens early, generally from the middle to
the end of September ; and in the south of England it suc-
ceeds against the open wall. The bunches should be

66 FRUIT GARDEN.

allowed to hang until they be perfectly ripe, when the ber-
ries acquire a slight russet color. It has long been a favor-
ite grape. '

The Grove-End Sweetwater is early, and of good qual-
ity; the berries having a rich vinous flavor. It is the
better for artificial impregnation.

Stillward’s Sweetwater or Chasselas précoce is a recent
variety of considerable merit. It is desirable for earliness,
and the bunches possess the property of keeping good on
the plant for two or three months after the berries are
ripe.

> Black Morillon or Burgundy Grape, or Small Black
Cluster, ripens in England against a south wall.

The Black Prince is of easy cultivation, and the berries
are of a pleasant flavor.

The Zante, or Corinth Grape, is often called Zante
Currant. In general it is a shy bearer, and the berries are
small ; but Mr. Gow, gardener at Tulliallan, having ferti-
lized some bunches with the pollen of the Black Hamburgh,
found that they set more freely, and that the berries were
larger and better flavored; a hint worth attending to in
other cases.

The Verdedho has loose bunches, berries of a greenish-
yellow color, small, oval, numerous ; when fully ripe, of a
rich sacharine flavor. It is the principal grape cultivated
in Madeira for making the celebrated wine of that island.
The plant grows vigorously ; and Mr. Knight has observed
of it that the same degree of shade which would render the
greater number of sorts wholly unproductive, scarcely —
affects the fertility of this; a convenient property, which
adapts it for the back wall of a glazed-house. The same
horticulturist mentions another economical property of the
verdelho: it bears plentifully when planted in very small

GRAPE VINE. 67

pots; a few pots of it may therefore be introduced among
green-house plants in early spring; the almost leafless
stems do no injury till the end of May, when some of the
more hardy ornamental plants can be set abroad; and dur-
ing the warm months which follow, when the green-house
is otherwise empty, abundant crops of these small grapes
may be procured.

The Esperione or Turners Early Black, has the
bunches large and shouldered, not unlike those of the
Black Hamburgh. ‘The berries are of a fine dark color,
with a bluish farina or bloom; the pulp adheres to the
skin; and though neither highly flavored nor melting, it is
very pleasant. This grape ripens on the open wall near
London.

The Syrian Grape is remarkable for the extraordinary
size and beauty of its bunches; it is a late variety, and
the berries are sweet and not without flavor when properly
ripened. This is generally regarded as the kind produced
in the valley of Eshcol, a cluster of which was brought to
the camp of Israel, swung on a staff between two of the
spies; not probably on account of its weight, but (as Dr.
Clarke observes) to prevent the berries from being bruised.*

For an ordinary vinery, the following may be recom-
mended.: Black Hamburgh, Red Hamburgh, Black Fron-
tignan, Frankenthal, St. Peter’s, White Frontignan, White
Hamburgh, and White Tokay. For a stove or warm
vinery may be particularized the Black Damascus, which
sets shyly unless aided, Black Raisin, Grizzly Frontignan,
Black Tripoli, Muscat of Alexandria, Canonhall Muscat,
and Syrian. For training against the rafters of a green-

* Bunches of the Syrian Grape have been raised in Syria weighing 40 lbs. ;

but in the grape-houses of Hurope and America they have seldom been
brought to weigh over 10 lbs. to 19 Ibs.

68 FRUIT GARDEN.

house, the Black Prince, Verdelho, Esperione, and Black
Cluster, are perhaps among the best.

The kinds commonly grown against the open wall in
England are the Miller Burgundy, Esperione, White Mus-
cadine, White Sweetwater, Early Black, Grove End, and
Pitmaston White Cluster. In the North of England, and
in the south of Scotland, vines always require hot walls.
Against a hot wall, at Erskine House, on the Clyde, Black
Hamburgh grapes are every year produced equal in size and
' flavor to those of the vinery or hot-house.. In some gardens
an entire wallis dedicated to vines, but, in general, they oc-
cupy only the interstices between other trees. Mr. Williams,
of Pitmaston, trained a vine under the coping of a wall to the
extent of fifty feet, and bent down the shoots at intervals
to fill up the spaces between the fruit-trees, and he found
that the grapes were better the farther they were distant
from the main stem and root. The culture of grapes on a
wall does not differ materially from that practiced in a
moderately worked vinery; we shall therefore defer any
farther observations till we resume the subject in treating
of the forcing department.

Mr. Mearns has, of late, recommended the culture of
grape-vines in flower-pots, by coiling the lower part of the
stems in the pots. When the plants can be subjected to a
pretty high temperature, with bottom heat, some fine
bunches may thus be procured from a very small stove,
without materially interfering with ornamental exotics
kept in the same place.

These are the varieties of grapes which are considered
most deserving of attention in England, where the culture
of the vine is limited to the sheltered garden, and generally
to the Grape-House or Vinery. Such, however, is the
success with which skill can obviate the defects of natural

GRAPE VINE. 69

climate, that fruit of larger size and better flavor is pro-
duced in English graperies than can be found in even the
most highly favored climates where the fruit ripens in the
open air. By the skillful application of artificial heat,
ripe grapes in great perfection are produced in many vin-
eries during every month in the year, in endless succession.

The productiveness of the grape-vine may be increased
to an almost unlimited extent, an example of which is
furnished in the much celebrated Black Hamburgh vine in
the grapery attached to the royal gardens at Hampton
Court, which, ina single season, has produced 2200 bunches
averaging a pound each, making in all nearly a ton.*
Another vine in England, at Valentine in Essex, has pro-
duced 2000 bunches of nearly the same average weight.
It occupies above 147 square yards, whilst that at Hamp-
ton Court is spread over 160 square yards, one of its
branches measuring 114 feet in length. Where the climate
and other circumstances are favorable, the age attained by
grape-vines is almost unlimited. Pliny mentions one 600
years old and still bearing in his time.

Most of those who have attempted the cultivation in the
United States of foreign grapes in the open air have met
with discouraging results. The White Sweetwater and
Black Hamburgh are almost the only varieties which will
give crops in the open air in the Southern States, or in
sheltered situations and gardens in the city of Philadelphia.

Dr. R. T. Underhill, of New York, states that after
having sunk thousands of dollars in attempts to raise the
_ best foreign varieties of grapes in the open air, he has
abandoned the project as visionary, and entirely devoted

* This vine is sometimes called even in books a Red Hamburgh. But
there is, in fact, no such particular variety of grape as the Red Hamburgh,
that so called being strictly the Black Hamburgh imperfectly ripened.

70 FRUIT GARDEN,

his attention to the native kinds. An interesting com
munication from him on this subject may be found in the
Albany Cultwator for January, 1843, in which he says
that in the vicinity of New York, south of the highlands
of the Hudson, he finds that the Isabella grape ripens
quite as well when planted in a level field, protected from
the north and west winds by woods or hedges, as on decliv-
ities. ‘‘ Several of my vineyards,” he observes, “ are thus
located, and, as far as I can perceive, the fruit ripens at
about the same time, and is of the same quality as those
planted on steep side-hills. I think, however, that north
of the highlands, side-hills would be preferable.”

A plan adopted by Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont,
near Philadelphia, to secure his foreign grape-vines, grown
in the open air, against the severe frosts of American win-
ters, is well deserving of attention. The vines are left
their whole length after they get their fall trimming in
October, and in November are let down from their supports,
laid on the ground at full length, fastened down with pins,
and covered lightly with earth. In this state they are left
all winter. In April, as soon as the weather will permit
they are uncovered, and left lymg on the ground ten or
twelve days. About the first of May, they are trained to
their stakes or poles, of the length of ten feet and upwards.
By the middle of June the stakes are entirely covered by
new shoots of the vine, and with plenty of fruit, which
ripens in September. Before adopting this plan, Mr. Wil-
son says his fruit was frequently blasted and mildewed, but
by its aid he has since succeeded in training vines twenty
or thirty feet long, some of which ran up fruit-trees
adjacent, whilst others, after attaining eight or ten feet in
height, were stretched horizontally. He seldom gathered
fruit within three or four feet of the ground, which was

GRAPE-VINE. 71

kept cultivated by frequent hoeing, and during ten years
never applied manure.

The main source of destruction to foreign grape-vines
in the American climate appears to be not so much in the
severity of the winter frosts as in the sudden return of cold
spells. Foreign vines seem to commence the free circula-
tion of their sap earlier than the native kinds, and thus are
exposed to having their circulating juices frozen, to the
certain destruction of the vines.

In England the Vine-culture is limited to the produc-
tion of a costly luxury for the tables of the wealthy. But
in the United States the raising of the grape has for its
object not only a supply of wholesome and delicious fruit
for eating, but for the production of wine. It is, however,
only within the last year or two that the efforts of those
who have devoted attention to wine-making have met with
decided and even brilliant success, and that the Cincinnati
wine-makers have demonstrated the practicability of pro-
ducing an American wine that will bear competition with
some of the best of Hurope.

Among native American grapes yet brought into suc-
cessful cultivation, the Isabella, as has been already stated,
is the most hardy, and may be raised in the open air as far
north as the St. Lawrence. It bears long, tapering
bunches, with few shoulders, the berries being oval, jet-
black, and covered with a fine bloom or white flower. The
skin is thick, the flesh very sweet, though a little pulpy,
with a slight musky flavor. ‘The vine is of a brownish-red
color, and very strong, the leaves being large and three-
lobed, coated underneath with white down. ‘The wine
made from it is sometimes good, resembling light Madeira.

The Catawba bears bunches rather regularly formed,
with a few shoulders. The berries are round and of a cop-

72 FRUIT GARDEN.

pery-red color when ripe. The flesh is pulpy, though rather
juicy, and the taste sweet, with a slight musky flavor. The
leaves much resemble those of the Isabella, having a white
down beneath, but being of a paler green and more re-
flexed. Whilst it is perhaps the best native table-grape, it
stands at present as the unrivaled wine-grape of the United
States. Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnati, has offered $500
reward to any one whe will produce a better native variety.
Several new seedlings of merit have been brought forward,
none of which, however, have proved equal to the original
Catawba. Mr. L. thinks the common Fox grape the parent
of the Catawba. The wine produced from this grape is
described as varying from a clear water-color to straw-color
and pink, with a fine fruity flavor, and slightly musky rich
aroma. By mixing the produce of the new vintage with
that of an old, half and half, a superior sparkling wine is
made, much resembling sparkling Moselle. It also makes
a still wine resembling a dry hock. If Catawba grapes be
thoroughly ripened, no sugar will be required in making
the wine, whilst wine made from the Isabella, resembling a
light Madeira, requires for the proper promotion of its
fermentation the addition of from eighteen to twenty-four
ounces of sugar to each gallon of juice, or ‘ must.”

The Powell Grape, called also the Alexandria, and
Bland—in compliment to Mr. Bland of Alexandria, Va.,who ~
first introduced it—is considered a hybrid, or cross between
the Isabella and B. Hamburgh. It bears short bunches,
having, when of good size, two or three shoulders. The
berries are round and of a pale red color, with pulpy flesh
of a sweetish, sub-acid taste, and a little of the musky or
fox-grape flavor and character. The leaves are a pale
green underneath, and rounder than those of the Isabella
or Catawha.

GRAPE-VINE. ‘a

The Scuppernong of the Southern States enjoys great
celebrity, both for its fruit-and wine-making qualities. In
North Carolina it thrives well, and bears most luxuriantly.
Its origin is doubtful. The berries are very large and
roundish, and grow on separate stems, like cherries. There
are two kinds, called the white and black, from the color
of the fruit. The light-colored are generally preferred.

The Elsenburg is a native of New Jersey, having
small bunches, compact and shouldered. The berries are
small, round, jet black, with a thin skin, no pulp, sweet,
and well-flavored. The wood is slender and very hardy,
the leaves five-lobed and thick.

The Missouri is a native variety described by Mr. Bu-
chanan, of Cincinnati, as bearing bunches loose and of me-
dium size, with berries black, without pulp, having a sweet
and agreeable flavor. He represents it as making an ex-
cellent wine, somewhat resembling Madeira.

The Clinton Grape from Western New York, is early,
hardy, small, black, pulpy, juicy, and of medium flavor.

The White Catawba, a seedling from the Catawba, has
been raised, but it proves far inferior to the parent. It
has bunches ef medium size, and shouldered, berries white,
large, round and pulpy, tasting much like the fox grape.

The Mammoth Catawba is another new seedling, re-
sembling the Catawba in color, but not so well flavored. The
bunches are large, shouldered, the berries very large, round |
pulpy, and in some seasons subject to fall off before ripening.

The Ohio or Cigar-box Grape, has been brought into
notice by Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnati, as a fine table
grape. Its bunches are long, compact, tapering and
shouldered, the berries being small, black, thin-skinned,
sweet, and without pulp. Seeds large. The wood is

strong, but shorter jointed than that of either the Cataw-
4

74 FRUIT GARDEN.

ba or Isabella. This is considered a native American
grape, and bears a strong resemblance to the Elsenberg,
but is by no means so hardy. It makes a dark-red wine
of inferior flavor when new, but improving by age.

Pond’s Seedling is a large, round purple grape, with a
thin skin and rich pungent flavor, well adapted to the
table, and promising to make good wine.

The Herbemont Grape is a small, round, purple, sweet,
juicy grape, without pulp, tender flesh, and makes a fair
wine, common in Ohio.

Norton’s Virginia Seedling bears bunches of medium
size, compact and shouldered, with berries small, purple,
sweet, but with pulp. It makes an inferior wine.

There are still other varieties of native American
grapes enjoying more or less general celebrity. Among
these are the Tasker, and the Schuylkill, which differ but
little from each other.

At the meetings of the National Congress of Fruit-grow-
ers, in 1854, the grapes recommended as of the first quality
and best adapted to culture in the United States, were (an-
der glass) Black Hamburgh, Black Prince, Black Frontig-
nac, Grisly Frontignan, White Frontignan, White Muscat
of Alexandria, and Chasselas de Fontainebleau; and of
native Grapes adapted to the open air, the Isabella and
the Catawba, and the Diana.

The Diana, a seedling from the Catawba, has been
brought forward lately as a native American grape of the
first class.

The Concord, a large, early, pleasant Grape has just
been introduced in the vicinity of Boston, and promises to
be an acquisition, especiaily where the Isabella and Cataw-
ba ripen with difficulty.

The chief aim of those who seek grapes adapted to

GRAPE-VINE, 75

wine-making is to obtain such as at maturity possess sufli-
cient sugar in their juice to render the addition of either
sugar or alcohol unnecessary for the future stages of the
wine.

The Catawba is, according the Cincinnati authorities,
the only grape yet found in the U. S. which fulfils this
great desideratum. Good wine is often made from other
grapes—such for example as the Isabella and Scuppernong
—but both these require the addition of considerable sugar
to produce the requisite degree of fermentation.

The following communication, made by Mr. Longworth
to the Cincinnnati Horticultural society, contains much
highly valuable information relative to the vine culture in
the United States :-—

“T have for thirty years experimented on the foreign
grape, both for the table and for wine. In the acclimation
of plants I do not believe, for the White Sweet Water does
not succeed as well with me as it did thirty years since. I
obtained a large variety of French grapes from Mr. Lou-
bat many years since. They were from the vicinity of Pa-
ris and Bordeaux. From Madeira I obtained six thousand
vines of their best wine grapes. Not one was found worthy
of cultivation in this latitude, and were rooted from the
vineyards. As a last experiment, I imported seven thou-
sand vines from the mountains of Jura, in the vicinity of
Salins, in France. At that point the vine region suddenly
ends, and many vines are there cultivated on the north side
of the mountain, where the ground is covered with snow
the whole winter from three to four feet deep. Nearly all
lived, and embraced about twenty varieties of the most cel-
ebrated wine grapes of France. But after a trial of five
years, all have been thrown away. I also imported sam-
ples of wine made from all the grapes.’ One variety alone,

76 FRUIT GARDEN.

the celebrated Arbois wine, which partakes slightly of
the Champagne character, would compete with our Ca-
tawba.

“If we intend cultivating the grape for wine, we must
rely on our native grapes, and new varieties raised from
their seed. If I could get my lease of life renewed for
twenty or thirty years, I would devote my attention to the
subject, and I would cross our best native varieties with the
best table and wine grapes of Hurope. We live ina great,
age. Discoveries are daily made that confound us, and we
know not where we shall stop. Weare told of experiments
in mesmerism, as wonderful as the grinding-over system
would be; but I fear the discovery will not be brought to
perfection in time to answer my purpose, and I must leave
the subject with the young generation.

“T have heretofore wanted faith in the doctrine of
French horticulturists, that to improve your stock of pears
you must not select the seed of the finest fruit, but of the
natural choke pear. I am half converted to their views.
The Catawba is clgarly derived from the common Fox grape.
In raising from its seed, even white ones are produced, but
I have not seen one equal to the parent plant, and in all
the white down on the under side of the leaf, and the
hairs on the stalk, common to the wild Fox grape, are
abundant.”

The same gentleman, in pointing out the evils of follow-
ing practices in the United States which are highly advan-
tageous in other countries, observes :—

‘“ Tn some parts of Europe, where their summers are cool,
they find it necessary to shorten the leading branches in-
tended to produce the next year’s crop, and thin out the
leaves, and head in the short branches, and fully expose the
fruit to the sun and air to insureitsripening. This method

GRAP\I- VINE. 77

in our hot climate is often highly injurious to the plant and
destructive to the fruit. Ifthe heading-in of the leading
shoots be done early in the season, the fruit buds of the
following year are thrown out. Asan experiment, I one year,
by successive heading, had the fruit of four successive years
on the plant at the same time, and the fall being favorable,
the second crop ripened its fruit. Where the fruit branches
are frequently topped, and the wood becomes ripe, the sap
ceases to flow and the fruit cannot ripen. This is the case
at the vineyard of Mr. Duhme. In our hot climate no
more lateral branches should be taken from the main shoots
intended for next year’s fruit than to give them the neces-
sary length. The fruit branches should be topped when in
blossom beyond the second eye from the last blossom, and
after that allowed to grow without topping. In our cli-
mate, to ripen the fruit a portion of shade is necessary, for
where there is growing young wood there is of course a full
flow of sap to the fruit, without which it shrivels and
drops off.

“This day I visited a German settlement on the Ohio,
commencing about twelve miles above the city and extend-
ing about four miles. The hill commences close to the
river and rises gradually; the usual bottom land being on
the opposite side of the river. The soil is porous, and well
calculated, in my opinion, for the cultivation of the grape,
and nearly the whole of the four miles is occupied by vine-
yards, and there are also some on the top of the hill, Two
of the vineyards belong to Englishmen; the owners of all
the others are Germans.

“ Most of the vineyards in this vicinity (Cincinnati) have
suffered severely from the rot, and some vine-dressers, ex-
pecting in the early part of the season to make from 2000
to 4000 gallons of wine, will not make 100. Yet their

78 FRUIT GARDEN.

vineyards are on the sides and tops of the hills, fully exposed
to the sun and air. But the sub-soil is a stiff clay, reten-
tive of moisture. These localities will, I fear, be always
subject to rot, and yet the vineyards will be found more
profitable than any other crop. ‘To persons having a porous
soil, I would recommend the cultivation of the Herbemont
grape. It isa fine grape both for the table and for wine,
and perfectly hardy. It makes wine of superior quality,
similar to the Spanish Manzanilla, or Mansineella, as it is
generally pronounced. ‘This grape has a soft pulp, and re-
sembles the best foreign table grapes. Lick Run, in our
immediate vicinity, will make one of the most beautiful
rural spots in the world. It will soon be a continuous line
of vineyards. I wish some of our poets would visit it in
May or June, and give it a more beautiful and appropriate
name. They may rack their brains for months, and not
find one worthy of the scene. It is different on Mount Ad-
ams, which is in a double sense in connection with the
heavens—its height and proximity to the great Telescope
of Professor Mitchel. The highest street is called Celes-
tial Street. Commanding as the view is, the name surely
equals it.

“T have just returned from a visit to the vineyard of
Mr. Langdon, on the bottom of the Little Miami, eight
miles above the city, ina sandy soil. That porous soil is
not subject to the rot in grapes is exemplified here. His
misfortune is, in fact, too large a crop of fruit, an unusual
complaint this season. Yet he will have a poor vintage,
arising from two causes, which prevent the fruit from ripen-
ing. The first and least cause is too much fruit, from leay-
ing too much bearing wood, There was more than the
vine could give a supply of sap for, in a favorable season.
The second and great cause is the same as at the vineyard

GRAPE-VINE. 79

of Mr. Duhme. ‘The fruit has no shade, few leaves, and
but little young wood on the fruit branches to carry sap to
the grapes to ripen them. The wood is life, and the circu-
lation of the sap stopped. Not one-fourth of the grapes will
ripen perfect, many of them shrivel and drop, and many of
them scarcely change color. A favorable fall will aid them.

“ T observed in the vineyard of Mr. Langdon that the
Catawba vine is much closer jointed than in our richer
land, where there is a sub-soil of clay; and one of my
German vine-dressers assured me this is always the case.
This would indicate an increased crop, and the change
probably depends on the richness of the soil. An impor-
tant inquiry is, Will the grape in a sandy soil yield an
equal amount of sugar? J wish our vine-dressers to
direct their attention to this subject. In some of our
vineyards, they have both soils, and the question will be
easily decided. The color of the Catawba grape is no cer-
tain evidence of its ripeness and richness. They are often
of unusual dark color this season, yet the juice has one-
eighth less sugar.”

Robert Buchanan, Esq., a highly intelligent and suc-
cessful vine-culturist and wine-maker, of Cincinnati, has
lately favored the public with a short but very compre-
hensive ‘“‘ Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape im Vine-
yards,” in which he mentions the varieties of grapes chiefly
raised near Cincinnati, the characteristics of the wine made
from them, and modes of culture pursued. This publica-
tion, coming frem one so intelligent and well qualified by
experience in the» vine culture and wine making, will be
found to convey the most oppertune and valuable instruc-
tion to all interested in the subject.

Propagating the Vine by Cuttings and Layers.—Mr.
Buchanan says, that in the vicinity of Cincinnati the most

£0 FRUIT GARDEN.

common way of propagating the vine is by means of cut-
tings, which may be made a foot or more long, with a por-
tion of two year old wood attached. Or they may be
shortened to only one or two buds or eyes. Sometimes,
instead of covering only the lower end of the cutting, and
leaving one or more eyes above the soil, the piece of vine
is all covered under, a practice called cultivating by dayers.
Plants raised from cuttings are generally preferred. These
should be selected a year before they are wanted, and
transferred to very large pots, by which means they will
be made strong rooted and vigorous.

Another mode of raising from layers is to bend down a
vine or shoot into a hole dug about four inches deep, and
cover it up firmly with earth, leaving the growing extrem-
ity outside. In dry weather, occasional waterings will be
necessary. In the month of November, the layer will be
found to have taken sufficient root to admit of being sepa-
rated from the parent vine and planted wherever desired.
It should be cut down so as to show about two eyes above
the ground, only one of which should be allowed to grow
the first year.

Grafting is sometimes resorted to, either on the stock
above ground, or on the main root just below the ground.
This succeeds best when the cion has been kept in a cool
place aitd kept back. Hither whip, tongue, or wedge-graft-
ing may be adopted.

Grafting of the Grape-vine. Te of the newest prac-
tices in horticulture is the grafting of the grape-vine with
detached cions, as introduced by Mr. William Gowans, the ©
judicious gardener at Cadder House, near Glasgow. It
has been found perfectly successful, and very convenient,
by some of the most distinguished practical horticulturists
in Scotland—Mr. Macdonald at Dalkeith, Mr. Smith at

GRAPE-VINE. 81

Hopetoun, and Mr. Shiels at Erskine. It seems proper,
therefore, to describe minutely the mode of performing the
operation.

The distinctive feature of the method is, that it avoids
the usual mode of grafting vines by approach, with all its
inconvenient restraints, and substitutes a simple scheme
of grafting by detached cions. The following are the
directions given by Mr. Gowans himself, which will be
rendered plain by looking at the annexed sketch: “ Select

Fig. 11.

a cion with one eye, and cut it in the form of a wedge.
For a stock, select a shoot 6 of the preceding year, about
the same thickness as the cion, and cut it over a little
above the second eye from the old wood. With a sharp
knife cut it down the centre nearly to the old wood. Out
of the centre, pare with a pen-knife as much as is neces-
sary to make it fit the cuts on the side of the cion. Then
insert the cion @ with its eye opposite to that on the top
of the stock. Tie it up and clay it over in the usual
manner, with this difference, that you cover nearly the ©
whole of the cion with the clay, leaving only small holes
for the eyes. Tie some oe upon the clay, upon

82 FRUIT GARDEN.

which sprinkle a little water occasionally to keep the whole
in a moist state for some time. What is of essential
importance to success in this method is the leaving of the
eye or young shoot on the top of the stock, and allowing
it to grow for ten or fourteen days, when it should be cut
off, leaving only one eye and one leaf to draw sap to the
cion, till it be fairly united to the stock. With regard to
the time of grafting, it will succeed pretty well when the
stocks are about to break into leaf. But there is more
certainty of success when the shoots of the stock have
made four or five eyes of new wood, for by this time the
sap has begun to flow freely, and the danger of bleeding is
overs”

It is evident, that by this mode of grafting vines, many
different kinds of grapes may be tried in the course of
three or four years, even in a very limited vinery, and the
best and most successful retained in cultivation.

A mode of propagating which is thought to produce the
finest plants for fruiting of all others, is that by the single
eye. ‘This is generally done early in February or March,
by cutting the wood of the preceding year’s growth, so as
to have but one eye on each piece, leaving about an inch
of wood on each side of the eye. These sections are to be
planted in pots with suitable mould, one to every pot, and
placed under glass, in either hot or cold frames, or in the
window of a warm room, and carefully watered. By con-
stant repotting and watering with liquid manure, they may
be made to grow ten or twelve feet the first year. One of
the advantages ascribed to vines raised thus from single
eyes, is that of having shorter joints, which renders them >
capable of producing a larger amount of fruit

Planting Out.—When the vines raised in pots or other-
wise are to be transplanted, the months generally preferred

GRAPE-VINE. 83

are October and November in autumn, and in the spring
March and April. In ground properly prepared, a hole
is to be dug about eighteen inches deep, and wide enough
at bottom to allow the roots to spread out to their fullest
extent without binding. Any that appear broken or dis-
eased should be cut off. The side roots should be covered
shallow, and fine earth, or what is far better, rich compost
or vegetable mould added so as.to fill up the hole. Then
pour in three or four gallons of water, after the sinking of
which more earth is to be added, and pressed down gently
with the foot. During the first season’s growth all the
side shoots are to be pruned, so as to leave but two eyes
on each.

In yards and gardens, along walls, fences, or open bor-
ders, low training may be adopted wherever there is sufii-
cient room. Vines may be conducted horizontally, so as
to extend a great distance under the projecting edges or
copings of a wall or close fence, especially where these face
the east. In cities they may be taken up from close and
gloomy yards to the tops of houses, three or four stories
high, and there spread out upon arbors, and exposed to the
influences of the sun and air, so as to be made produce
abundanee of delightful fruit. Or, they may be trained
low like currant bushes, three, four, or more shoots being
allowed to grow eighteen inches or two feet above the
ground to give an annual supply of young bearing-wood.

American fence-rows wouid seem to offer a peculiarly fine
situation for the grape-culture, the posts and rails offering
such admirable means of support. To what great profit

might the immense amount of land be put which is now —

taken up by fences and entirely lost to culture, and this
too without injury to the regular grain crops from shading ?
Intelligent farmers would do well to adopt a course which

-

84 FRUIT GARDEN.

would not only supply their families with abundance of
wholesome fruit, but afford a source of regular profit.

When vines are trained as standards, according to the
practice pursued in Northern France or Germany, the main
stalk or stem is not allowed to be over six or eight inches
high. From this, two or three shoots are trained by being
tied to a stake three or four feet high. These shoots will
produce two or three bunches each, within a foot or eigh-
teen inches of the ground, and they will be succeeded an-
nually by others springing from the crown or top of the
dwarf main stem. In Southern Europe the base or main
stem is often left higher, and its side shoots secured to
poles many feet high.

Pruning.—This is done at two distinct periods; what
is called Summer Pruning consists in pinching off the
shoots having no fruit, or such as are not required for the
succeeding year. ‘The fruit bearing shoots, as well as those
left for succeeding seasons, must also be topped.

The Winter Pruning consists in trimming off all the
wood that has borne, and shortening the new bearing wood
for next year, to three or four eyes in cold situations, and
to six or eight in warmer exposures.

Soi/.—In almost any good deep and dry soil, the grape-
vine will thrive. Where the soil is shallow, very dry and
gravelly, the produce will be less in quantity, but of better
flavor than that raised on rich and deep ground.

Manures for Grape- Vines.—Dr. Liebig refers to in-
stances where vines have been maintained in a productive
condition for twenty to thirty years, by simply returning
to them their leaves and trimmings, the last being eut into
small pieces and dug into the soil by means of a spade or
hoe. Some manures favor the growth of wood and foliage
rather than fruit. High manuring will generally have this

GRAPE-VINE. 85

effect, a rule which is applicable to all other plants or trees,
Hence, the judicious selection and application of manures
are important matters. Ground bones, horn shavings, old
woolen rags, the dust and dirt from paved roads and streets,
perfectly rotted stable manure, poudrette, are some of the
best.

To believe that the vine will continue to bear to all
time, with no other nourishment than it receives from its
own refuse, is inconsistent with the revelations of recent
scientific researches. Organic chemistry shows us what
the fruit extracts from the soil, among which are large pro-
portions of phosphate of lime and potash. A portion of
the last may be restored by the return of the trimmings
and leaves. But ultimately the potash required by the
vine must be exhausted wherever there is not a granitic
soil to furnish it, by the decomposition of its felspar or
mica. As to the phosphate of lime taken away with the
fruit, scarcely any portion of which is returned by the vine-
wood and leaves, this must be supplied to the vine in some
form, or otherwise its productiveness must be very limited.

Management of the Vine under Glass.—The vines may
be planted either on the inside or outside of the grapery,
to correspond with the rafters to which they are to be
trained. When on the outside, a bank of earth is to be
raised over the roots, and the vines brought under the
outer wall through appropriate notches.

Training and Pruning.—The main stems are to be cut
off even with the bottom of the glass, and two shoots al-
lowed to start from it the first season, and if any fruit ap-
pears, one bunch may be allowed to grow on the strongest
shoot. Train the shoots up the rafters as high as they will
go, but do not top them when a third or half way up, as
some have advised. The succeeding winter lay the strong-

86 FRUIT GARDEN.

est shoot within two or three feet of the past season’s
growth, cutting the weakest shoot to within one eye of
the preceding season’s growth. ‘The strongest stem may
have ten or twelve eyes all producing fruit, of which one
bunch may be allowed to each eye. The weakest branch
left without any fruit may be permitted to grow as much
as it will. The second winter cut back the strong shoot
to within two eyes of the old wood, and allow one shoot to
grow from it. One shoot is to be trained without fruit for
next season’s crop. Jour shoots may be finally left on the
vine, one-half of which may be allowed to bear every year,
the other two being cut back for fruiting the following
season. ‘This is commonly termed the Jong cane system,
and is regarded as the most simple and very best method of
pruning followed in the United States.

Pruning consists of winter pruning and summer prun-
wg, operations very different from each other. What is
commonly styled the Spur system of training and pruning
is managed as follows: Allow each stem to extend the
whole height of the house, and if the first year it does not
attain the size of three inches round, it is to be cut back
and allowed another year’s growth. Should it attain more
than three inches in circumference, it must be regarded as
toostrong, and cut down to within about four feet of the
old wood. Young spurs will put out to bear fruit, and
one bunch may be taken from each, the growth of each spur
being stopped two eyes above the bunches. These spurs
are cut back at each winter pruning, so as to leave two or
three eyes on each. These again sending out spurs, one
bunch is to be taken from each, and so continue from year
to year. Never take more than one bunch from a single
eye.

Hoare, in his excellent treatise upon the vine, has re-

GRAPE-VINE. 87

duced to a scale its bearing capacities at certain stages of
its growth. The greatest quantity of grapes which any
vine can mature, in proportion to the circumference of its
stem or base measured three inches above the ground, is as
follows :—

When 3 inches in circumference 5 lbs.
2 1-26 (6 10 «
4 74 & 15 ce
5 ce cc 20 tc
6 iz4 cc 36 «
t cc “ 45 ce
8 74 cc 55 cc
G <4 74 65 (¢4
0 Ce (¢4 15 (74

The Autumnal Pruning or Training should take place
immediately after the falling of the leaves, and the wood
of the year just finished should never be trimmed back to
but one eye, instead of which a long spur of three eyes
must be left, since one or more may be defective. The
surplus eyes can be rubbed off after securing the setting of
the fruit during the earliest stage of its growth the ensuing
season.

In Summer Pruning, every shoot must be stopped two
leaves above the bunch, after which new lateral shoots will
soon be produced. These again must be stopped by pinch-
ing off about every fortnight, to preserve the strength of
the plant for the perfection of the fruit.

High training is generally pursued from observing that
the most vigorous shoots and best fruit are usually found
at the extremities of the branches, especially those situated
highest. It has been observed that native vines seldom or
never throw out bearing shoots before reaching the tops of
trees on which they seek support, when the branches gener-
- ally assume a horizontal direction.

88 FRUIT GARDEN.

By far the most of the foreign grapes raised in the
United States, under glass, are brought forward without
fire-heat; the sun’s rays, when properly taken advantage
of, being sufficient to produce maturity in almost every
variety. The routine of the grape-house culture without
fire-heat is as follows: The vines which had been trimmed,
and perhaps laid down in the beginning of winter, should
be raised up and washed with strong soapsuds, to which
some tobacco decoction may be added. They should have
all the rough bark removed, and cleaned thoroughly, after
which they may be tied up in their proper places. After
they put out, they should be syringed with water about an
hour after sunrise every morning, should the sashes be on
the house. After the fruit has set, the vines may be
syringed every afternoon, the house being previously shut
up, not to be re-opened till the sun has warmed up the air
next day, usually about nine or ten o’clock, at which time
the top sashes may be let down to admit air, and the ther-
mometer not allowed to rise above ninety or one hundred
degrees. When the fruit attains the size of peas, the
syringing is discontinued by some, whilst by others it is
kept up till the grapes begin to change color.

As the season advances, and during the sultry days of |
July and August, mildew is to be looked for, and may be
readily recognized by the yellowish and sickly transpa-
rency of the leaves, which have a soft and greasy feel.
The destruction wrought through mildew is often so rapid
and extensive that where the least signs appear, the most
prompt measures should be taken to check its extension.
Copious syringing with water, twice a day, is recommended
as one of the best remedies, allowing the freest possible
circulation of the air from ten to three o’clock, if the sun
shines. When the disease has made considerable progress,

GRAPE-VINE. 8G

flour of sulphur may be added to the water with which the
syringing is effected. Four gallons of boiling water
may be poured over five pounds of the sulphur, and
after it has been well stirred and allowed to settle, a
gallon of this water may be added to that commonly
made use of in syringing. Never allow cold draughts
of air through open doors, &¢., to pass immediately
among the vines. After stopping syringing, the roots
shonld be watered every week.

Pruning.—Most of the pruning required in summer
may be performed without a knife, the shoots being so ten-
der as to be readily pinched off by the fingers. Select the
shoots which are to be trained for the next year’s crop,
and others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom.
These shoots should be generally from twelve to fifteen
inches apart. All those between, and having no clusters,
are to be removed; and those left, and having clusters,
are to be shortened so as to leave one joint above the
uppermost cluster. To effect this properly, the vines,
when first showing their fruit, should be gone over every
three or four days till all the shoots have shown their
clusters.

Thinning and spreading.—Those who desire to have
the very largest and best fruit that can be raised from the
vine, must resort to the practice of thinning out a portion,
whilst yet green and about the size of garden peas. This
is done by cutting off with narrow-pointed scissors, from
one-fourth to a third of the berries. The grapes left will
thus have room to swell freely, and though reduced in
numbers, will be the same in weight, as if all had been left
on. The bunches of the large-growing kinds will be pro-
tected from the effects of damp, or mouldiness, by having
their shoulders spread out and suspended to the trellis or

90 FRUIT GARDEN.

branches, by strands of fresh matting. If they appear
crowded before they begin to color, some berries may still
be clipped off, but care must be observed not to touch
them after coloring, for fear of rubbing off some of the
bloom which constitutes so much of their beauty.

Any person having a green-house for the protection of
tender plants and exotics, can, with little or no additional
expense, manage to make it secure him every year a crop of
the finest kinds of foreign grapes. The vines may be planted
outside near the front wall, in the lower part of which open-
ings are to be left in the brick or wood-work, to permit the
vines to be passed or drawn out. As soon as the weather will
admit the plants to be exposed to the open air, the vines may
be passed into the house and attached to the rafters or
other supports, where they are to be trained and treated
according to the rules laid down for their management.
In the fall, the ripe grapes may be taken off, the vines
trimmed, withdrawn from the house, and properly bound
up and secured against the frosts of winter. Meantime,
the hot-house plants are enjoying their appropriate places
of protection.

Much useful information relating to the proper manage-
ment of vines in graperies will be found under the head of
Pruning and Training, when describing the operations
of the forcing garden.

The Fic-Trex (Ficus Carica) is not a great favorite in
Britain, the fresh fruit not being much relished, and the
tables being supplied with a vast abundance of dried figs
imported from the Mediterranean countries. Every good
garden ought, however, to contain a few trees, to furnish
an occasional dish ; and we doubt not that the fresh fruit,

if it were more common and better grown, would be more
5*

FIG-TREE. 91

liked. The foliage of the tree is large and elegant, and
the mode of fructification is curious; the pulpy part, which
we call the fruit, being, in fact, a common receptacle, and
the anthers and stigmata being produced inside. The
nomenclature of figs is still very uncertain, and it is with
some hesitation that we give the following names :

1. Black Ischia. 5. Brown Turkey.
2. Black Genoa. 6. Pregussata,
3. Brunswick or Madonna. 7. Lee’s Perpetual.
4. Brown Ischia or Miller’s chest- 8. Early White.
_ nut fig. 9. Marseilles or Figue Blanche.

Of these the Marseilles, the Early White, Black Ischia,
and Brown Turkey, are the best adapted for forcing; the
others are suitable for walls. Lee’s Perpetual answers
well for either mode of culture; but is not recognized by
Loudon or by Lindley as a distinct variety.

Fig-trees may be propagated by cuttings put into flower-
pots, and placed in a gentle hot-bed. They are, however,
most speedily obtained from layers. The shoots laid down
should be two or three years old; and those when rooted
will form plants ready to bear fruit the first or second
year after planting. Suckers ought never to be used.

In some places in England, fig-trees are planted out as
standards; and in Kent and Sussex, a few small fig orch-
ards exist. In Scotland, a south wall is indispensable,
trained to which, in good situations, and when the trees
are old enough, they bear remarkably well. The best soil
for a fig border is a rich friable loam, on a subsoil not re-
tentive of moisture, or which has been effectually drained.
It is advantageous to have a lofty wall, and the trees
should be planted at considerable distances, perhaps not
nearer than forty feet, to allow them full space to exhaust
their luxuriance.

92 FRUIT GARDEN.

It is of the nature of the fig-tree to produce two sets of
shoots and two crops of fruit in the season. The first
shoots generally show young figs in July and August, but
these in the English climate very seldom ripen. The late
or midsummer shoots likewise put forth fruit-buds, which,
however, do not develop themselves till the following
spring, and then form the only crop of figs on which we can
depend in Britain.

Various modes of training fig-trees have been proposed.
Mr. Lindley recommends the horizontal form. Mr. Knight
carries up a central stem perpendicularly to the top of the
wall, and then radiates the side-branches horizontally and
pendently, in close contact with the wall. Luxuriance of
growth is supposed thus to be checked, and the branches
thrown into a bearing habit. The finest fig-trees which
we have seen in Scotland are trained in the old fan form.
The shoots are laid in, thinly, at full length, and en-
- couraged to extend themselves as fast as possible, precau-
tion, however, being taken to leave no part of the tree bare
of young wood. Much of the pruning is performed in
summer by pinching off unnecessary shoots, and the knife
is seldom employed, except in removing naked branches, or
in cutting back to procure a supply of young wood. Some
cultivators break off the points of the spring shoots, in or-
der to produce laterals, but this must be done at an earlier
period, not later perhaps than midsummer, otherwise the
young shoots will not ripen. The Rev. G. Swayne recom-
mends rubbing off all the young figs which appear in autumn
on shoots of the same year, observing that for every young
fig thus displaced the rudiments of one, or perhaps two
others, are formed before winter, and developed in the fol-
lowing year.*

* Tt is a proverb in fig culture that ‘“‘ the more you prune the less you
crop.””

FIG-TREE. 93

The winter dressing of the fig-tree takes place immedi-
ately after the fall of the leaf. The immature figs which
may remain are removed, irregularities are corrected, and
the shoots nailed neatly to the wall. Various modes of
protecting the branches during winter have been adopted.
At Argenteuil, where figs are cultivated on standards for
the Paris market, the lower branches are bent downwards,
and buried about six inches deep in the soil; while the up-
per branches are tied together, and bound round with straw
and litter. Mr. Swayne mentions that he wraps up the
young shoots with waste paper. Mr. Forsyth recommends
covering wall fig-trees with the spray of laurel or yew, and
then tucking in short grass or moss (hypnum) among the
spray. Mr. Smith, first at Ormiston Hall, and afterwards
at Hopetoun House, has found (Cal. Hort. Soc. Mem.,
vol. il.) a covering of spruce-fir branches to be very effec-
tual. The branches are so placed as to overlap each other,
and to form a layer nearly equally thick on every part of
the tree. The foliage of the spruce branches remains green
till March, and as the light and heat increase, the dried
leaves gradually fall off, and admit air and sun to the fig
branches below.

Mr. Monk (Lond. Hort. Trans., vol. v.) states that the
same fig-tree seldom produces fruit containing both perfect
stamens and pistils, and conjectures that this is the cause
of the fruit being so often prematurely shed. Caprifica-
tion, or assisting the fructifying and maturation of figs,
has often been sneered at; but here we see reason in that
kind of it which consisted in hanging or shaking the
branches of the wild fig (caprificws) over the soe tree
at the time when both were in blossom.

“There is something very singular in the fructification
of the fig; it has no visible flower, for the fruit arises im-

94 FRUIT GARDEN.

mediately from the joints of the tree, in the form of little
buds, with a perforation at the end, but not opening or
showing anything like petals or the ordinary parts of frue-
tification. As the fig enlarges, the flower comes to maturity
in concealment, and in eastern countries the fruit is im-
proved by a singular operation called caprification. This
is performed by suspending by threads, above the cultivated
figs, branches of the wild fig, which are full of a species of
cynips. When the insect has become winged, it quits the
wild fig and penetrates the cultivated ones, for the purpose
of laying its eggs; and thus it appears both to insure the
fructification by dispersing the pollen, and afterwards to
hasten the ripening by puncturing the pulp and causing a
change of the nutritious juices. In France this operation
is imitated by inserting straws dipped in olive-oil.”— Lad.
of Ent. Knowledge.

The Peacu (Amygdalus Persica) is a stone-fruit of
oriental origin, said to have been brought from Persia by
the Romans about the beginning of the empire; but the
precise period of its introduction into our British gardens,
of which it has long been the pride and ornament, is not
well ascertained. There are two principal varieties: the
Peach, properly so called, with a downy skin; and the
Nectarine, with a smooth skin. These, following the
authority of Linnzeus, we consider as one species; and as
their culture is precisely the same, we shall speak of them
as distinct only when referring to their sub-varieties. Hach
of these varieties is again divided by gardeners into free-
stones or péches, and clingstones or pavies, according as
the stone parts freely from the pulp or adheres to it. We
shall here treat chiefly of the freestones, as being most
hardy and fittest for the open wall in Britain.

THE PEACH. 95

Mr. George Lindley, whose arrangement is the best that
has hitherto been published, enumerates 60 kinds of
peaches and 28 of nectarines. In the Horticultural
Society’s Catalogue the names of 183 peaches, and of 65
nectarines, are recorded. We doubt not but that in
America, where the trees are commonly raised from kernels,
and grown as standards, endless varieties and sub-varieties
might be collected. To enumerate even the limited number
existing in Britain would far exceed our limits; we shall,
therefore, notice only a few of those which are most distinct
and best adapted to the English climate.

PEACHES.

Red Nutmeg, or Avant rouge of the French.—This is
one of the earliest peaches, ripening in England about the
beginning of August. The fruit small; color pale yellow
towards the wall, bright vermillion next the sun; pulp
white, but red at the core; the juice rich and musky. The
tree is an abundant bearer.

Grosse Mignonne, L. Hort. Cat., or Neil’s Early Pur-
ple.—Fruit large; skin pale yellow, and deep purple next
the sun; flesh melting; juice plentiful, and of delicious
flavor. The tree is a good bearer, and forces well, but the
fruit does not bear carriage. It ripens in the end of Au-
gust and beginning of September.

Madeleine de Courson; Red Magdalen of Miller.—
Blossoms large; fruit rather below the middle size; color
yellowish-white next the wall, beautiful red next the sun;
flesh white, with very little red at the stone; juice rich and
vinous. ‘Tree a good bearer; fruit ripening about the be-
ginning of September. “An excellent peach,” says Mr.
Lindley, “and ought to be found in every collection.”

- 96 FRUIT GARDEN.

Royal George.—This is a well-known peach, much eul-
tivated. By nurserymen it is often given out under the
name of Red Magdalen; but the blossoms are small, while
those of the Magdalen are large. Against a good wall the
fruit often ripens in the beginning of September, and even
in indifferent seasons by the middle of that month. Fruit
large, purplish-red next the sun, whitish where shaded ;
flesh white, varied with red next the stone, which is free;
melting, rich, with an abundant sugary juice. It is also
one of the best kinds for a peach-house, fruiting freely,
and ripening well. The foliage is however, rather subject
to mildew.

Noblesse.—This has long and deservedly been a favorite
in our gardens. It is a very large fruit; the skin pale, red
when ripe; the flesh juicy and rich. The tree is a good
bearer, and the fruit ripens in September.

Late Admirable, or La Royale.—Fruit large; skin pale
green next the wall, pale red on the sunny side ; flesh green-
ish white, red at the stone; juice abundant, and, when well
ripened, of a high flavor. ‘One of the very best late
peaches,” says Mr. Thompson, “ and ought to be in every
collection.” It is very proper for the peach-house, to suc-
ceed the earlier sorts.

Nearly allied to the preceding is the Teton de Venus, a
beautiful fruit, but requiring a warm situation. In a good
season it ripens at the end of September ; is saccharine, and
at the same time of fine flavor.

George the Fourth. LL. Hort. Cat. 65; American Or-
chardist, 223.—-This is a fine large peach of American ori-
gin; bears forcing well, and is a semi-clingstone. It
requires a flued wall in England.

Among other exéellent peaches may be mentioned:
Freestones, Chancellor, Knight’s Early, Downton Karly,

THE PEACH, O7

Malta or Belle de Paris, Royal Charlotte, and William’s
Karly Purple; Clingstones, Catharine, Heath, and Old
Newington.

The following accovnt of the modes of cultivating the
peach in England, whilst it shows the impediments opposed
by nature to the development of this fruit in that climate,
may prove useful to those who reside in the more northern
United States and British Colonies where the climate is
unfavorable to the perfection of this delicious fruit in the
open air.* In all the Southern and Middle States the
peach-tree flourishes in the open air, and planted in orchards,
attains some fifteen or twenty feet in height. - The position
where the peach is found perhaps in the greatest perfection
is about the latitude of Baltimore and Washington. In
the State of Delaware, south of Philadelphia, thousands
of acres are covered with peach-trees, affording the greatest
abundance of fruit in the highest perfection. Baskets,
holding about three pecks, are commonly sold at twenty-
five to fifty cents. The varieties of this fruit known in
the United States are very numerous, and every year
increasing.

Propagation.—The facility with which this is effected in
the United States may be judged of by the fact, that vigor-
ous budded trees from four to seven feet in height can be
obtained at the nurseries at from three to five dollars per
hundred. The first step is to plant the pits in November,
in some rich, light, or sandy soil, covering them about three
inches deep. “They may be placed in rows four feet apart,
and six or eight inches from each other. Or, the pits may
be deposited during the autumn, in moist sand or light

* The management required for obtaining the peach at extraordinary
seasons will be found laid down i the description of operations connected
with forcing im *

ca)

98 FRUIT GARDEN.

mould, and there left to form sprouts, which are taken from
the stones and planted in rows. After the first summer’s
growth, they are budded in August and September. Early
the succeeding spring, those in which the operation has suc-
ceeded have the old wood cut down close above the new
bud, which will shoot up in the course of the season, from
three to nine feet high, with numerous side-branches. In
some of the Western States, we are informed, it is com-
mon to plant the stones in November, and bud the growth
the following June, head down in July, and thus secure a
growth of four or six feet within one year from the planting
of the stone. When budding is performed on the plum
stock, they will, it is said, live for half a century, and be
free from the attacks of the worm, which is so apt to de-
stroy the tree by its excavations into the bark immediately
below the crown of the root. In poor, sandy soils, or
gravelly subsoils, the tree is very short-lived, seldom bear-
ing more than one or two crops before becoming sickly, and
dying with what is commonly called the yellows. A light
clay loam is the most favorable soil for the peach-tree, and
this must be kept rich, or otherwise the trees will soon ex-
haust the fertility of the ground, and perish from the yed-
lows. Although a clay subsoil, retentive of moisture, is so
congenial to the peach-tree, a little excess of moisture is
very prejudicial. A happy medium, neither too dry nor
too moist, is the great desideratum.

Planting Out.—The ground intended for peach orchards
should be ploughed as deeply as possible, and made fine by
subsequent harrowing. If well manured the previous year,
all the better. The trees, which should be one year old,
counting from the budding, are to be placed not nearer
than twenty feet apart, which makes one hundred and eight
to the acre: on strong land, where they would attain to

THE PEACH. 99

still greater size, they should be at least twenty-four feet
apart. Cultivate in corn or potatoes, the first two seasons,
after which the trees will begin to bear, and generally make
sufficient growth to require all the ground for themselves.
This ground should be ploughed and harrowed every sea-
son, and the trees hoed around, to break up all sward.

Pruning.—In general, very little pruning is done to
peach-trees in the United States, which is strongly con-
trasted with the elaborate treatment they receive from
Kuropean fruit culturists. One of the main objects in
trimming is to thin out the branches, so as to throw them
open and allow the sun to penetrate to every part of the
tree. This greatly improves the fruit in flavor and color,
and thus secures its better sale. Those who have but a
few trees to manage may adopt modes of winter and sum-
mer trimming, which will prove of very great advantage to
the fruit. The young wood should be kept thin, and every
new growth shortened by fall or winter pruning. In this
way, the beauty, vigor, and productiveness of the tree may
be greatly improved.

The National Convention of Fruit-growers to 1854
have adopted the following list of peaches as of the first
quality :—

Gross Mignonne, Cooledge’s Favorite,
George IV., or Early York, with Bergin’s Yellow,

serrated leaves, Crawford’s Late,
Large Early York, And for particular localities,
Morris White, Heath Cling.

Oldmixon Freestone,
To this list the same body added,

Belle de Vitry Admirable,
Crawford’s Early Malocaton, Late Admirable,
Early Tillotson, President,

100 FRUIT GARDEN.

Red Rareripe, Noblesse,

Lemon Cling, Royal George,

Madeleine de Courson, Tippecanoe,

Malta, Incomparable Admirable,
Rareripe,

Enemies of the Peach-Tree.—The chief of these in the
United States are, first, the Yel/ows, to which we have re-
ferred, and ascribed to some uncongeniality of soil to the tree,
as well as to exhaustion, where there is not sufficient fertil-
ity; and, secondly, the peach-worm which excavates the bark,
so as often to girdle the tree immediately below the crown
of the root. Its presence may always be known by a mass
of gum, which exudes from the wounds, and a portion of
which pushes itself a little above the surface of the ground.
The worm, which is of a yellowish-white color, grows to
the size of an inch in length, is very voracious, and the
product of a four-winged long-shaped fly, with dark steel-
blue wings, and yellow bands about the body, It is a
species of Adgeria, called by Say, who has described it,
exigtosa, or the destructive, and its eggs are deposited
during the summer upon the outer surface of the tree, near
the root. As soon as these hatch, the minute maggot-like
larva penetrate the bark, and begin their work of destruc-
tion, which increases with their size. They live in this
way about a year, when they cut out and enter their
chrysalis state, between the tree and the earth, covered
with the gum which bulges out from the base of the tree.
After lying here a little while, they come forth in a new
form of winged insects, and are soon busy in depositing a
new crop of eggs for the production of more extensive
destruction. A particular description of this insect and
its habits may be found in the Farmers’ and Planters’
Encyclopedia, under the head “ Peach.” Putting a quart

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 101

or more of unleached ashes around the crown of the root
in the month of April is recommended as a good destroyer
of the peach worm. <A mixture of common salt and salt-
petre, one-eighth of the latter to seven-eighths of the for-
mer, has also been successfully applied in a similar man-
ner. Freshly slaked lime, half a peck heaped up around
the crown of the root of each tree, is also recommended,
the lime to be spread out over the ground the succeeding
year. All these plans are doubtless advantageous, not
only from their often destroying the worm, but by their
contributing fertilizing qualities to the soil.

NECTARINES.

Fairchild’s Early.—A beautiful little freestone ; chiefly,
however, cultivated for its earliness. It ripens about the
middle of August.

Elruge ; L. Hort. Cat. 21. nnd. p, 287 (not of Mil-
ler).—It is an excellent fruit, of a moderate size; flesh
white, almost to the stone, which is free. The tree forces
well, and is a good bearer. Fruit ripens about the begin-
ning of September.

Hunt’s Tawny.—Size moderate; skin pale orange next
the wall, russet-red towards the sun; flesh deep orange,
juicy and well-flavored; a freestone. A very distinct
sort, worthy of cultivation for its earliness.

Early Newington.—A fine large clingstone; pale green
on the shaded side, bright red next the sun; juice saccha-
rine and well flavored. Ripens in August.

Red Roman.—An excellent old clingstone, now seldom
to be met with genuine, but worthy of re-introduction.

The Stanwick Nectarine, a new fruit, was introduced
into notice in England in 1850 or 1851, with great eclat ;
but it is doubtful whether it will sustain its high reputa-

102 FRUIT GARDEN.

tion. Mr. Cope, of Philadelphia, fruited it in 1854 in his
green-house.

The nectarine is a scarce fruit in the United States,
where, however, it would produce abundantly in the open
air, wherever the peach-tree flourishes, were it not that the
smoothness of its skin invites the curculio to make it the
depository of its eggs, leading to the almost universal
destruction of the fruit, unless protected by some means
persevered in; in this respect it seems to fail, even worse
than the plum. The beauty, fragrance, and rarity of nec-
tarines make them more highly prized than peaches; but
in flavor, they are perhaps inferior to many of the best
kind of peaches to be met with every summer in the Phila-
delphia market. As we find plum trees escape the attacks
of the curcullo, when planted in yards where the chickens
and pigs range, the same good results might be expected
from placing nectarine trees in similar situations. Nec-
tarine trees are preferred, when grafted or budded on plum
stocks. Their management and culture are similar to that
of the peach.

The Downton, a much celebrated variety of nectarine,
is a freestone of large size and a greenish-white color, dark-
red cheek, and flesh rich, melting and juicy.

The P2tmaston Orange has fruit of medium size, bright
golden color and red cheek. The flesh is a deep yellow,
and of a fine sweet rich flavor. It is a freestone.

New White is a freestone of medium size, and creamy-
white color, with flesh rather juicy and well flavored.

Lewis's Seedling. —This American variety was produced
by Mr. Lewis, of Boston. It is a freestone, of large size
and heart-shaped, sweet and pleasant flavor. The color is
a bright yellow, mottled with red.

Perkins’ Seedling.—This is a large and beautiful nec-

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 103

tarine, raised by S. G. Perkins, of Boston, from the Lewis’s
Seedling. Its shape is round, color bright-yellow, with
dark crimson on one side. The flesh is tender, juicy and
high flavored.

At the meeting of the National Convention of Fruit-
growers, the Elruge Downton and Early violet varieties
of the nectarine were adopted without objection, as of the
first quality for this country. Some of the best authori-
ties present, among whom were Messrs. Downing, Buist,
and Hancock, concurred in pronouncing the Downton the
very best of nectarines.

The nectarine grows best in the Middle States, in shel-
tered situations, and may be advantageously trained to
fences and walls.

Choice Peaches and Nectariwnes for raising under glass.
—For a small glazed house, and for the wall of a middle-
sized garden, the following selection of peaches and necta-
rines is recommended. or the peach-house—Royal
George, Barrington, Neblesse, Bellegarde, Grosse Mig-
nonne, Karly Purple peaches; Violette hative, Hunt’s
Tawny, Elruge, and Roman nectarines. For the wall—
Royal George, Late Admirable, Noblesse, Malta, Neil’s
Karly Purple, Harly Ann, Grosse Mignonne, Barrington,
Bellegarde, George the Fourth, and Spring Grove peaches ;
Nectarines, Karly Newington, Hunt’s Tawny, Violette
hative, Fairchild’s Karly, Roman, and Pitmaston Orange.

Production of New Varieties.—¥or information respect-
ing the best modes of raising new varieties of peaches and
nectarines, the reader may be referred to Mr. Knight’s
papers in the first volume of the Transactions of the
Horticultural Society of London. That ardent horticul-
turist entertained the hope that, by repeated sowings, the
peach might acquire so robust a habit as to be capable of

104 FRUIT GARDEN.

succeeding as a standard in favorable situations in England
and Ireland. But with this desirable object in view, we
would rather see the number of the kinds diminished than
increased ; and it would be well for the country were alt
the indifferent sorts banished from the nursery catalogues.

To perpetuate and multiply valuable varieties, peaches
and nectarines are budded upon plum or almond stocks.
For dry situations, almond stocks are preferable; and for
damp or clayey loams, it is better to use plums. An al-
mond budded on a plum stock may be rebudded with a ten-
der peach, greatly to the advantage of the latter. The
peach border should be composed of a hght mellow loam,
such as is suitable for the vine and the fig, put in as rough
as possible, or not broken small and fine. It should be well
drained, or rendered quite free from all stagnant water, or
latent dampness. It need not be of great depth, perhaps
eighteen inches; for the peach tree thrives best, and is
most productive, when the roots are near the surface of
the ground. We believe that, in many instances, all that
is required to remedy sickly and unfruitful trees is to bring
up their roots within five or six inches of the surface. In
England, nothing is a greater obstacle to success in peach
culture than trenching the borders, and cropping them
heavily with culinary vegetables.

The fruit of the peach is produced on the twiggy shoots
of the preceding year. If these be too luxuriant, they
yield nothing but leaves ; and if too weak, they are incapa-
ble of maturing the fruit. To furnish these, then, in suffi-
cient abundance, and of requisite strength, is the great ob-
ject of peach-training and pruning. All twiggy trees
naturally fall into the fan form; and, accordingly, this has
generally been adopted in the culture of peaches.

We shall first, therefore, notice the old English method,

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 105

and then briefly the French, and other new modes of train-
ing.

The old fan form is very nearly that already given
(supra) as a specimen of fan-training for twiggy trees. The
young tree is often procured when it has been trained for
two or three years in the nursery, but it is generally better
to commence with a maiden plant, that is, in the first year
after it has been budded. It is then headed down to five
or six buds, and in the following summer two to four shoots,
according to the vigor of the plant, are trained in; the
laterals also being thinned out, and properly nailed to the
walls. Suppose there be four branches; in the subsequent
winter the two central ones are shortened back to produce
others, and the inferior ones are laid in nearly at full
length. In the following season additional shoots are sent
forth ; and the process is repeated till eight or ten princi-
pal limbs or mother branches be obtained, forming, as it
were, the framework of the future tree. These mother
branches are occasionally raised or depressed, so as to
maintain their equilibrium, and are as much encouraged to
grow outwards as is consistent with the regular filling up
of the tree. The laterals are carefully thinned out (by
pinching off with the fingers) insummer ; and the remainder
are nailed in, to afford subordinate members and bearing
wood. When the centre of the tree has been filled up, all
the training necessary is merely to prevent the inferior
members from acquiring an undue ascendency over the
mother branches. It is highly advantageous to have abun-
dant space, and to draw the tree outwards, so that it be
thin, but nowhere destitute of young shoots.

Meanwhile the pruning for fruit has been going on. This
consists in shortening down the laterals which had been

nailed in at the disbudding, or summer pruning. Their
5*

106 FRUIT GARDEN.

length will depend on their individual vigor, and the luxu-
riance of the tree. The buds, which are generally double,
or rather two together, with a fruit bud between them,
seldom occur quite close to the insertion of the shoot.
Perhaps two or three pairs are left with a wood bud at
the point to afford a growing shoot, in order to act as its
lungs, for it is necessary that there should be leaves above
the fruit. The extent of thinning of the fruit must depend
on the vigor of the tree; a pair of fruit to each square
foot of wall being an average allowance. When the fruit
begins to swell, the point of this leading shoot is pinched
off, that it may not drain away the sap. Any young shoot
from the wood-eyes at the base of the bearing branch is
carefully preserved, and in the following winter it takes
the place of the branch which has borne fruit, and is cut
out. If there be no young shoot below, and the bearing
branch be short, the shoots at the point of the latter are
pruned for fruit; but this must be done cautiously; and
if the bearing branch be long, it is better to cut it back for
young wood. It is the neglect of this which constitutes
the principal error of the English fan system as it is usual-
ly practiced. Several times during summer the trees are
regularly examined: the young shoots are respectively
topped and thinned out: those that remain are nailed to
the wall, or braced in with pieces of peeled willow, and the
whole trees are occasionally washed with the force-pump.

The Montrweil form is described at length in the Hortv-
cultural Tour, p. 249, or in the Cal. Hort. Mem., vol. iv.
p. 145. The principal feature constitutes the great princi-
ple of all French training, the suppression of the direct
channel of the sap. Four, more commonly two, mére
branches are so laid to the wall that the central angle con-

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 107

tains about 90°. ‘The other branches are all treated as
subordinate members.

The form @ la Dumoutier (so called from its inventor
and described at great length by Lelieur), is merely a re-
finement on the Montrueil method. It will be sufficient
to mention to the experienced trainer (and none other can
be expected to execute this form), that the formation of
the tree commences with the inferior limbs, and proceeds

Fig. 13.
SW WAKE
\\ WAZ
el) SSS

towards the centre, the branches being lowered from time
to time, as the tree acquires strength. What is most wor-
thy of notice in this method is the management of the sub-
ordinates in the pruning for fruit. When a shoot promises
blossom, it is generally at some distance from the point of

108 FRUIT GARDEN.

insertion into the old wood, and the intermediate space is
covered with wood-buds. All the latter, therefore, which

Fig. 14.

are between the old wood a and the blossom c, in the outer
ficure, except the lowest 4, are carefully removed by
ebourgeonnement or disbudding. This never fails to pro-
duce a shoot, 6, in the inner figure, the growth of which is
favored by destroying the useless spray above the blossoms,
and pinching off the points of those which are necessary to
perfect the fruit. A replacing shoot is thus obtained, to
which the whole is invariably shortened at the end of the
year. The branch thus treated is called the branche de
reserve.

The form @ Za Siewde is another modification of the Mon-
trueil training, for an account of which we must again refer
to the Horticultural Tour. This figure will give an idea

Fig, 15.

~

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 109

of the general arrangement of the tree. The two mother
branches are laid in very obliquely, and are never shortened.
On the subordinate branches three buds only are left at
the winter pruning, one terminal, and two at a considerable
distance from each other on the sides of the shoot. This
method, probably, is not well adapted to our climate.

Mr. Seymour’s form, as described in vols. 1. and ii. of
the Gardener’s Magazine, approaches more nearly to the
French methods than any other practiced ir this country.
It will be seen, however, from the annexed figure, that he
does not suppress the direct channel of the sap. This cir-
cumstance, although considerable stress seems to be laid up-
on it, is not essential to the plan, nor is, perhaps, the best part
of it. The principal novelty is, that the bearing shoots are
all on the upper sides of the mother branches, and that
these bearing shoots are wholly reproduced once a year.
The one side of this figure represents the tree after the

Fig. 16.

winter pruning, the other side before it has undergone that
operation. It will be observed that on this last side
there are pairs of shoots on the upper parts of the mother
branches. The lower shoot, that, namely, which has
borne fruit, is cut out, and the other is brought down into

110 FRUIT GARDEN.

its place. This replacing shoot is shortened to about
eight or nine inches, care being taken to cut at a wood-bud ,
and at the time of disbudding, the best situate buds, and
those nearest the base, are left for the future year’s bear-
ing. To this plan it is objected, by a writer in the Horti-
cultural Register, that the annual excision of the bearing
shoots produces a series of rugged and unsightly protuber-
ances at their base, and along the upper surfaces of the
principal members; an objection which also militates
against Dumoutier’s form. Mr. Loudon, on the other
hand, declares that Mr. Seymour’s mode is the most per-
fect in theory that has been described. For ourselves, we
are inclined to prefer the old fan-form, when well executed,
as approaching nearest to the natural habit of the tree, and
as best adapted to our uncertain climate. As a general
observation, it may be said that, in the training of peach
trees, “‘ whatever is best administered is best ;”? and there
is no doubt that many ingenious gardeners have only par-
tial success, because, from the multiplicity of their engage-
ments, their trees can receive only partial attention.

For cold and late situations, Mr. Knight recommended
the encouraging of spurs on the young wood; such spurs,
when close to the wall, being found to generate the best
organized and most vigorous blossoms, and thus to ensure
a crop of fruit. They may be produced by taking care
during the summer-pruning, or disbudding, to preserve a
number of the little shoots emitted by the yearly wood,
only pinching off the minute succulent points. On the
spurs thus procured, numerous blossom-buds form early in
the following season. This mode of spurring is much
practiced in Scotland.

Peach trees, particularly in the North of England, and
also in Scotland, require protection from atmosphcrical in-

NECTARINE AND ALMOND. lil

fluences, especially at the period of blossoming. As already
noticed, branches of spruce or silver fir, or other spray, are
sometimes woven into frames, which are fixed in front of
the trees, and removed during the day in fine weather (Cad.
Hort. Mem., i., 276). Canvas or bunting screens are
equally effectual, and perhaps more easily movable. Straw-
ropes, straw-nets, and a variety of other expedients, have
been proposed, and may be used according to circumstances,
If the screens be applied early in the season, great benefit
may be derived from retarding the blossom till the frosty
nights of spring be past. If the night frost have been
severe, a copious sprinkling of water over the whole tree,
before the influence of the morning sun be felt, has been
found to be very useful in gradually raismg the tempera-
ture of the foliage and blossoms, and thus preventing injury
from the sudden transition. To trees trained against hot-
walls, if fire be used in spring, screens are indispensable;
but perhaps hot-walls are most beneficially employed in
ripening off the fruit of the late sorts of peaches in autumn ;
and, what is equally important, ripening the young wood
of such sorts.

When peach and nectarine trees are liable to mildew and
to aphides, it is found very useful to coat, with a painter’s
coarse brush, all the branches and twigs with a composi-
tion of black soap and flowers of sulphur, mixed with
water, and boiled to the consistence of paint. This should
be done during winter, and before the trees are nailed to
the wall. 3

The late pruning of the peach and nectarine should take
place early in the winter, and not be delayed till the spring,
as is sometimes the case.

The Atmonp TREE (Amygdalus communis), a native of

112 FRUIT GARDEN.

China, may be noticed here rather on account of its affinity
to the peach and apricot, than because of its importance as
a fruit-tree in Britain. Every good garden should contain
a tree or two trained against a west or east wall, and also
a few standards; for in very fine seasons the latter will
yield crops, and they are always ornamental in spring from
the beauty of their blossoms. The sorts most worthy of
notice are the Tender-shelled Sweet Almond, or Jordan,
and the Common Almond, or Bitter.

The almond is generally budded on seedlings of its own
kind; but for heavy soils plum-stocks are preferable. The
training and pruning of almond trees on walls are much
the same as in the peach or the apricot.*

The Arricor (Prunus Armeniaca) is a native of the
Caucasus and China; it was cultivated by the Romans, and
was introduced into England from Italy in the reign of
Henry VIII. It has always, and deservedly, been a
favorite. The principal varieties are :

Red Masculine.—F¥ lowers small; fruit small, roundish,
yellow and red: flesh sweet and juicy; stone impervious ;
kernel bitter. This is a very early sort, but the tree is
rather tender, and requires a good aspect.

Breda.—F lowers large ; fruit roundish, sometimes almost
four-cornered, orange-colored ; juice rich, stone small, im-
pervious; kernel sweet. The true Breda is an apricot of
first-rate excellence, and in the south of England the tree
bears well as a standard.

Roman.—F lowers large; fruit oblong, compressed, pale

* The Hard-shelled Almonds will succeed in the open air in any of the
Middle States, and the soft-shelled have been matured in Camden, Delaware.
Very good hard-shell almonds are produced in Virginia. The culture is

similar to that of the peach and apricot, and ought to be more generally at-
tended to in the Southern and some of the Middle States.

APRICOT. 113

yellow; flesh soft; stone impervious; kernel very bitter.
The tree is a good bearer, but the fruit is fit only for pre-
serving. It is sometimes called the Brussels—a name
also occasionally given to the preceding.

Moorpark.—F¥ lowers large ; fruit roundish, compressed,
orange and red; flesh parting from the stone, juicy and
rich; stone pervious; kernel bitter. This is generally
considered the best apricot in this country. There are
several sub-varieties known under different names; and
among these Shipley’s is the best. It scarcely differs from
the Apricot Peche of the French.

Hemskirke.—Uike a small Moorpark, but with a more
tender and juicy pulp, and with the rich flavor of a green-
gage plum; kernel small, sweetish. A desirable early
fruit, ripening on an east wall in the end of July or begin-
ning of August.

Turkey.—Flowers large; fruit middle-sized, spherical,
deep yellow; flesh juicy and rich, parting from the stone,
which is impervious; kernel sweet. This is an excellent
late variety.

Dubois Golden Apricot.—A hardy productive American
variety. Small but good flavor; early, and is tolerably
exempt from the attacks of the curculio. Good for market.

Besides these, we may mention the Large Early, the
White Masculine, Musch-musch, and Royal. The last is
a French variety of recent origin; it is excellent, and
ripens earlier than the Moorpark.

Apricots are propagated by budding on muscle or com-
mon plum-stocks. Mr. Knight recommends the wilding
apricot as a stock for the Moorpark variety. Some
gardeners have adopted the horizontal form of training,
but the most usual, and certainly the best, is the common
fan arrangement; for the taller the tree the greater the

1i4 FRUIT GARDEN

produce of fruit. The fruit is produced on shoots of the
preceding year, and on small close spurs formed on the two-
year-old wood. The apricot is a tree of much stronger
growth than the peach, and therefore requires more room ;
this and the peculiarity of the spurs being kept in mind,
the observations made on the training and pruning of the
peach may be readily applied to this tree. It requires a
summer and winter pruning. The former should begin
early in June, at which period all irregular fore-right and
useless shoots are to be pinched off; and, shortly after-
wards, those which remain are to be fastened to the wall, to
become bearers. At the winter pruning, all worn-out
branches, and such as are not duly furnished with spurs
and fruit-buds, are removed. The young bearers are
moderately pruned at the points, care, however, being taken
to leave a terminal shoot or leader to each branch. The
most common error in the pruning of apricots is laying in
the bearing shoots too thickly.

The blossom comes early in spring, but is more hardy
than that of the peach; the same means of protection,
when necessary, may be employed. The fruit often sets
too numerously; and in this case it is thinned out in June
and in the beginning of July, the later thinnings being
used for tarts, for which purpose they are in much request.
In the south of England, apricots are sometimes trained
against espalier rails, and occasionally planted as dwarf
standards; and it is said that in good seasons the fruit
from such trees is more highly flavored than that from
walls. In general, however, the protection of a wall is re-
quired. An east or west aspect is preferred in England,
the full south being apt to induce mealiness of pulp. In
Scotland, the late varieties require the best aspect that can
be afforded.

PLUMS. 115

This fruit ripens several weeks earlier than the peach to
which it is allied. The National Convention of Fruit-
growers, adopted unanimously as of the first quality known
in the United States, the following varieties, viz: The
Large Early, Breda, and Moorpark. The kind known as
the peach apricot was pronounced identical with the Moor-
park.

The tendency of this tree to put out its flowers. very
early in the scason, and much before the Almond and
Peach, subjects its fruit to great risk from nipping spring
frosts. This difficulty increases in proceeding from the
North to the South.

The Prum Tree (Prunus domestica) is considered by
Sir J. E. Smith as a native of England. Many of the best
cultivated varieties, however, have been introduced from
France. The Hort. Soc. Catalogue enumerates 274 sorts,
though probably all of these are not well ascertained. We
shall first notice a few of the best dessert plums, and then
give a list of select kitchen sorts.

The Green-Gage is the Reine Claude of the French.
Being a great favorite at Paris (as it is everywhere else)
during the ferment of the first Revolution, when all allu-
sions to royalty were proscribed, it retained its popularity
under the title of Prune Citoyenne. It was introduced into
England by the Gage family, and the foreign name having
been lost, it obtained its present appellation. It is a fruit
of first-rate excellence, the flavor being exquisite. The tree
deserves a place against an east or west wall, where the
fruit acquires a larger size, without materially falling off in
richness of flavor. Treated as a wall tree, it seldom bears
well till it be old; and it is very impatient of exact train-
ing, as indeed most plums are. In warm situations it

116 FRUIT GARDEN.

may be properly grown on an espalier-rail, or as a dwarf
standard. ;

The Drap d'Or is a small yellow plum of high flavor,
ripening in the beginning of September. On a light soil
the tree is a tolerable bearer ; but ona heavy soil it seldom
succeeds. The fruit precedes the green-gage in ripening,
and resembles it in quality.

Coe’s Golden Drop is a fine large oval plum; excellent
either for the table or for preserving. It keeps well, and
Mr. Lindley informs us that he has eaten it exceedingly
good twelve months after it had been gathered. It requires
the best aspect of a wall, and will scarcely answer in a
bleak climate.

Reine Claude Violette, L. Hort. Cat., 232. Purple-
Gage, Lind., p. 555.—A very high-flavored variety, resem-
bling, color excepted, the green-gage. It succeeds on stan-
dards, but is improved by a wall. The tree is a good bearer.

Washingtan, L. Hort. Cat., 266; Amer. Orchard,
p- 268.—Fruit rather large, roundish oval, pale yellow on
the shaded side, and of a fine glaucous light purple on the
exposed side; of excellent quality, little inferior to the
green-gage. The tree is vigorous, and bears well against a
wall, the fruit ripening about the middle of August. Being
an early plum, it will, in favorable situations, succeed as a
standard. It is, as the name imports, of American origin. -
It ought to be in every collection.

Couper’s Large Red is a plum of large size, oval;
suture deeply cleft on one side; skin of a bluish glaucous
purple on the exposed side, on the other side dull red; flesh
firm, adhering to the stone; ripening in the beginning of
September on a south wall, in Scotland. Although this is
only a fruit of second quality, yet the tree well merits a
place on account of its great productiveness,

PLUMS: 117

The following may also be accounted first-rate plums, and
deserving a place against the wall :—Coe’s Late Red, Down-
ton Imperatrice, Isleworth Imperatrice, Royale Hative
Kirke’s Plum, Blue Perdrigon, White Perdrigon, Ickworth
Imperatrice, Karly Orleans, White Magnum Bonum, Mira-
belle, and the Dunmore.

The Wilmot’s Orleans, La Royale, Sharpe’s Emperor of
Morocco, and some of the Damsons, though generally re-
garded as only second-rate plums, deserve notice, and should
always be introduced in large gardens, at least as standards.
The Early Violet is an excellent bearer, and strongly
recommended by Lindley to be planted in cottage gardens.
Lucomb’s Nonsuch plum should not be omitted; for when
well ripened, it makes an approach to the green-gage in
flavor.

As kitchen and preserving plums we may specify the
common Damson, Imperial Diadem, Isabella, White Mag-
num Bonum, Red Magnum Bonum or Imperiale; the Cale-
donia or Nectarine Plum, a large and handsome fruit.

The finer dessert plums are propagated chiefly by bud- ©
ding on Muscle or St. Julian stocks. They are some-
times grafted, but gum is apt to break out at the place of
junction.

Plum trees require ample space. On common walis they
should be allowed from twenty to twenty-five feet of breadth
over which to extend themselves. The horizontal mode of
training is adopted by many. The fan form is also very
commonly followed, and undoubtedly where there is room
it is the best. The shoots ought to be laid in at full length.
The fruit is produced on small spurs, on branches at least
two years old, and the same spurs continue fruitful for
several years.

Standard plum trees require only to have a portion of

i18 FRUIT GARDEN.

their wood thinned out occasionally while they are young.
The hardy kinds grown in this way are very productive,
and in some places in the north of England their produce
forms a considerable article of food for several weeks,
and also an article of commerce, particularly the wine-
sour, which is in great request for preserves. It is
matter of regret that this branch of fruit culture has not
as yet, met with due attention in Scotland.

The crops of this fruit are greatly limited in the United
States by the destruction of the young fruit effected by
worms hatched from eggs deposited in what are called the
stings of the Curculio. This insect has been described by
Dr. Harris, the celebrated entomologist of Massachusetts,
whose account of it, together with the best modes of pro-
tection from its destructive attacks, are all treated of at
much length in the Farmer's and Planter’s Encyclopedia,
under the heads of Curculio and Plum-Tree Weevil. One
of the best preventives is to have the trees paved around,
or planted in yards and places where fowls and pigs com-
monly range.

The list of plums adopted as of the first quality, at the
National Convention of Fruit-growers, at their meeting
in 1854, is as follows :—

Jefferson, Green-Gage, Washington, Purple Favorite,
Bleeker’s Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Frost Gage, Lawrence
Favorite, Mc’Laughlin, Purple Gage, Reine Claude de
Bavay, Smith’s Orleans; and, for particular localities, the
Imperial Gage. To this list of fruit of well-established
reputation, the same body subsequently added as giving
promise of being worthy a place in the catalogue, River’s
Favorite, St. Martin’s Quetsche, Ive’s Washington Seedling,
Munroe Egg, and Prince’s Yellow Gage.

CHERRIES. 119

The Cuerry Tree (Prunus Cerasus) is said to have
been introduced into Italy from Pontus, in Asia, by the
Roman general, Lucullus. From the “ London cries” of
Lydgate, it appears that “cherries in the ryse,” or in
twiggs, were hawked in London at the beginning of the
fifteenth century. Excellent sorts have at various times
been introduced from the Continent, and, of late years,
several first-rate new varieties have been raised in England.
Geans included, the Horticultural Society’s Catalogue enu-
merates no fewer than 219 varieties; the following may be
accounted some of the best.

The Early Purple Griotte may be first mentioned, as
being the earliest of all cherries, sometimes ripening in the
end of May, and generally early in June. It is not yet
generally known in England, but deserves cultivation, the
fruit being large, of a fine purple color, and of rich flavor.

Knight’s Early Black is a large, dark colored cherry,
of excellent quality, ripening in the end of June.

The May Duke is one of the most common, and, at the
same time, one of the most valuable cherries. In fine
seasons, and on a good aspect of wall, it begins to color in
May; and in such situations it is generally ripe from the
middle to the end of June. The tree also bears well as a
dwarf standard, but against a wall the fruit gets larger, and
does not fall off in flavor.

The Royal Duke is a rich, sweet cherry, with most of
the qualities of a May Duke. Ona standard it ripens in
August.

Bigarreau, or Graffion.—This 1s an excellent fruit,
especially when it gets the protection of a wall. In the
cherry orchards of England this sort is now pretty exten-
sively cultivated, the fruit meeting with a ready sale, and
vast quantities being required for the London market.

420 FRUIT GARDEN.

Belle de Choisy, an excellent cherry. The fruit comes
in pairs, red, mottled with amber color, tender and sweet:
The tree bears well as a standard.

Black Tartarian, or Ronald’s Black Heart, Z. Hort.
Cat., 198; Lind., p. 149. Fruit large, obtuse heart-
shaped ; flesh half tender. “The quality is good, and in
appearance is one of the finest.” The tree is a good bearer,
and well adapted for forcing.

Watertoo.—Raised by a daughter of Mr. Knight from
the Bigarreau and May Duke. Fruit black, large, obtuse
heart-shaped, pulp tender. It ripens in July, and the tree
is a free bearer.

Elton.—Raised by Mr. Knight from the Bigarreau and
White Heart. Fruit large, heart-shaped, pale red, with a
sweet, delicious juice. The tree is a good bearer and
hardy ; the fruit ripens shortly after the May Duke.

Kentish Cherry.—One of the oldest and most prevalent
cherries of England, abounding in the orchards of Kent.
When ripe it is of a full red color, and its subacid flavor is
very agreeable. It is commonly grown on standards, and
ripens in the end of July. The Hort. Cat. distinguishes
this from the Flemish or short-stalked, also a good cherry,
to which it is certainly closely allied.

The Morello.—This is a well-known late cherry, much in
request for confectionery. ‘The tree is a copious bearer,
and on a south wall the fruit acquires a peculiarly rich
subacid flavor. It succeeds perfectly well on a north
aspect, where its fruit may be retarded to the end of
October.

The Amdéer, or yellow Spanish, is a late fruit, and useful
in prolonging the cherry season till the beginning of Sep-
tember. It requires a west wall.

Among other excellent varieties may be mentioned the

CHERRIES. 121

Black Eagle, the Black Heart, Bowyer’s Early Heart, Car-
nation, Downton, Florence, and the White Heart.

What are called geans or gwignes are cherries less
removed from their natural state. The trees are generally
treated as standards, and bear abundantly, particularly
when old. The principal sorts are the Amber gean, a
pientiful bearer, with sweet tender fruit; and the Lundie
gean, bearing a small black cherry of high flavor. This
variety originated at the ancient seat of the HErskines in
Forfarshire, but is sometimes called the Pelton gean, from
a place near Lasswade, in Mid-Lothian.

It may be noticed that, in the Jardin des Plantes, at
Paris, the black-fruited cherry-tree, or Guignicr, is con-
sidered as a variety of Prunus Cerasus. The forest cherry-
tree, P. avium, is named Merisier; and, besides varieties
with red and with black fruit, there is a marked variety
called Bigarotier.

The stock preferred for cherries is the wild gean. Mr.
Lindley recommend that dwarf cherry trees should be
grafted, and two or three year old stocks will do for them.
For standard trees the stocks should be at least four years
old, and they should be budded or grafted five or six feet
from the ground. High stemmed cherry trees, or rzders,
are often temporarily employed to fill up the vacant spaces
on newly-planted south walls till the dwarf trees make
sufficient progress; for these, stocks six or seven feet high
are required. For dwarf cherry trees, the best stocks are
procured from the Prunus (or Cerasus) Mahaleb, the sweet-
scented cherry.

Cherries are generally produced on small spurs which
appear on the wood of the second year, and these spurs
continue productive for an indefinite period. Any form of
training may therefore be adopted; but, as the fruit is

6

122 FRUIT GARDEN.

always finest on young spurs, perhaps fan-training, which
admits of the frequent renovation of the bearing branches,
is the most advantageous. A succession of young shoots
should be laid in every year. For the Morello, which is
of a twiggy growth, and bears on the young wood, the fan
form is absolutely necessary. Whatever method be adopted
for general practice, care should be taken not.to crowd the
branches ; for nothing is more unfavorable to the produc-
tiveness of the trees than over-crowding of branches.

The Prunus Marasca, from the fruit of which is prepar-
ed the celebrated liqueur called Maraschina di Zara, is a
native of Dalmatia, and would doubtless succeed in Britain -
and America if fairly tried.

We often find terms adopted to designate different kinds
of cherries, which it will be useful to understand. Of up-
wards of 200 varieties of the cherry in cultivation, the
French usually make three general divisions, or classes,
namely, Giottes, or the tender-fleshed; Brgarreaus, or
heart-shaped ; and G'uzgnes, or Geans, small-fruited. The
Morello has characteristics such as the peculiar form and
lowness of the tree, appearance and character of its fruit,
and length of time it hangs upon the branches after matur-
ing, all of which serve to distinguish it from other kinds
of the cherry family. Dwarf cherry trees are procured
either by grafting upon Morellos or the Mahaleb, or sweet-
blossomed cherry. Large standards are generally engraft-
ed on the second year’s growth from the seeds of Mazzards,
a name designating a kind of small black cherry.

The National Convention of Fruit-growers, from 1848
to 1854, recommended the following varieties of cherries
as of the best quality and most deserving of cultivation in
the Union.

PEARS. 123

RIPENING IN JUNE.

May Duke, Knight’s Early Black,
IN JULY.

Black Tartarian, Black Eagle,

Graffion, or Bigarreau, Downer’s Late,

Elton, Downton.

The Belle Magnifique and Early Richmond for cooking, and for new varie-
ties that promise well.

CHERRIES THAT PROMISE WELL.

American Amber, Governor Wood,
Belle de Orleans, Great Bigarreau of Downing,
Bigarreau Monstreuse de Bavay, Hovey,
Black Hawk, Kirtland’s Mary,
Coe’s Transparent, Ohio Beauty,
Early purple Guique, Reine Hortense,
Walsh Seedling.

The Prar Tree (Pyrus communis) is considered by
botanists as a native of England. Many cultivated varie-
ties seem to have been introduced by the monks; remains
of pear orchards attached to monasteries of the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries being not uncommon even in Scot-
land, and very ancient trees of the finer dessert pears, such
as the Colmar and Longueville, occasionally occurring.

The list of cultivated pears amounts to more than 600
names; but the number of those truly desirable is not
large. We shall specify some of what are considered in
England the best dessert fruit, following the usual division
of Early and Late; the former class being in season in
England in the months of August, September, and Octo-
ber, and the latter in November, December, and January.
It is only a few years since pears fit for the dessert in
January were known in Britain; such as the Glout mor-
ceau, the Easter Beurré and the Winter Beurré; and
they deserve the best attention of horticulturists. It is to
be premised, however, that even within the limits of Bri

124 FRUIT GARDEN.

tain, climate makes an important difference in the culture
and ripening of pears, of which a remarkable and extreme
example may be seen in the Ohaumontelle—a fruit which
is produced abundantly 4nd ripened on standards in the
south-west of England, and even in the environs of London,
while it requires a south wall near Kdinburgh.

Ll. Barny:

Citron des Carmes, L. Hort. Cat., 190; Madeleine,
Lind., p. 344; in Scotland often called the Premature.
This is the earliest pear; it ripens in July, acquiring a
yellowish-green color; it is sweet, but without much flavor.
One tree, or at most two trees, may suffice. It requires
in the English climate a sheltered situation.

The Green Chisel, called also the Hastings, Pear James,
or Green Sugar. This is not a first-rate pear; but the
tree is hardy and a great bearer. It ripens in August.

The Sewmmer Rose.—A handsome round pear, of a rus-
sety-red color, much resembling an apple, flesh white, rich
and sugary. This is an excellent variety, succeeds on a
standard, and ripens in August.

The Bashop’s Thwmd is a hardy orchard pear of good
quality, and the tree is a free bearer. The fruit consider-
ably resembles the muirfowl egg, but is earlier.

The Jargonelle of Britain is the Grosse Cuisse Madame
of French horticultural writers, and the Epargne and Bau-
present of French practical gardeners. This is the most
common and most esteemed of our early autumn pears.
Against a wall the fruit attains a large size and a beau-
tiful appearance; but it is not of so high a flavor as from
standards or espalier rails. The fruit does not keep well,
and the tree should therefore be planted in various situa-
tions to prolong its season, as it is rather difficult, when

PEARS. 125

it disappears, immediately to supply its place in the des-
sert. Beautiful dwarf trees may be formed by grafting
on the common white thorn, which, however, are not very
patient of transplanting. The French jargonelle is green
on one side and red on the other, and is a fruit of inferior
quality. |

The Ananas d@ Eté is scarcely noticed by our horticul-
tural writers; but it seems a good variety to succeed the
jargonelle. In the Experimental Garden at Edinburgh, it
ripens on a standard in the second week of September.
It is of middle size, about two and a half inches broad,
tapering a little towards the stalk, round at the top, eye
small, slightly sunk in a cavity; red on the exposed side,
green, and somewhat russety on the other; flesh white,
melting, with a pleasant sweet juice. Sometimes called
King William Pear.

The Summer Francréal, or the Yat of Holland, may be
noticed as another pear to follow the jargonelle, as it ripens
about the middle of September. The tree proves, in gene-
ral, a great bearer.

The Longueville.—Some very ancient trees of this varie-
ty exist at Jedburgh; and in the garden of the Regent
Murray at Edinburgh there are several which apparently
are coeval with the times of the Regency. Though the
name is now unknown in France, it is conjectured that the
tree was brought over from that country by the Douplas,
when Lord of Longueville, in the fifteenth century. The
fruit is large, of a thick conical shape, green, and of con-
siderable flavor. It ripens in September.

The Seckle, of American origin, deserves a place; for
the tree is of dwarfish size, and suited for a border stand-
ard, and it seldom fails to yieldacrop. The fruit is small,
but melting and perfumed. It does not keep.

126 FRUIT GARDEN.

Feast’s Seedling, raised from the seckle, is likewise a
fine early sort, of American origin.

The White Doyenne.—This is an excellent sort, when
used at its perfection. In warm situations it is well
adapted for dwarf standards. Ripens in September and
October.

The Red Doyenne, or,as it is sometimes called, Gray
Doyenne, is also an excellent autumn pear, succeeding
best on a quince stock.

The Early Bergamot was introduced from France in
1820. It is one of the very best early pears, as the tree
bears freely as an open standard.

The Autumn Bergamot, or English Bergamot, has been
long known as one of the most highly-flavored pears. It
is not the Bergamotte d’Automne of the French, which is
liable to canker in this country, while the English Berga-
mot isnot. In England the tree succeeds perfectly well
as a standard; in Scotland it answers in good seasons, but
there it is deserving of a west wall. The fruit is of a de-
pressed globular shape, not large; the flesh juicy, sugary,
and rich, a little gritty next the core. It ripens towards
the end of October, but does not keep.

The Van Mons Leon Leclerc is one of the newest and
best autumn pears, ripening from the middle to the end of
October. It is of the size and shape of the Duchesse
d’Angouleme ; sugary, and with rich pine-apple flavor.

To the list of summer and early autumn pears might be
added the Musk Robine, Summer Francreal, Summer
Bonchretien and Wilbraham Bonchretien, generally requir-
ing the protection of a wall; and the Lammas Pear of
Scotland, “‘soon wpe, soon rotten,” which succeeds per-
fectly well on open standards; Ambrosia, Belle et Bonne,
Beurré d’Amalis, Caillot Rosat, and the Hazel Pear.

PEARS. 127

2. Late.

The Brown Beurré (Red and Gray Buerré of various
authors) is a first-rate melting pear. Against a wall with
a good aspect, and with a fresh soil, the tree isan abundant
bearer. Ripens in October and November. A. variety
raised at Dunmore, and called the Dunmore Brown Beurré.
‘is hardy, and produces freely as_a standard, but about a
month later.

The Beurré de Capiawmont is one of the best new
Flemish varieties. ‘The fruit is melting and well-flavored,
and ripens in October and November. The tree is a great
and constant bearer, and hardy, answering equally well as
a wall-tree or a standard.

The G'ansel’s Bergamot (sometimes called Brocas Ber-
gamot).—This noble pear, which has scarcely been rivaled,
certainly not surpassed, by any of the imported varieties,
is of English origin. Its blossoms are too tender to ena-
ble the tree to succeed as a standard; but it deserves a
wall, and it should be placed on various aspects to prolong
its season. It almost always blossoms freely; but fre-
quently proves shy in setting: thinning the blossom is
found advantageous. The fruit ripens in November and
December.

The Marie Louise-—This excellent and large pear was
raised by the Abbe Duquesne, and named after the Empress
in the time of Bonaparte. ‘It is,” says Mr. Thompson,
“‘ one of the very finest, even as a standard, bearing abun-
dantly ; it succeeds also well on the north wall.” In Scot-
land it is the better for an east or west aspect; but on a
standard in a sheltered garden at Luffness, Hast Lothian,
the fruit has attained the weight of fifteen ounces, and it
has been produced of excellent quality from standards in
the orchard of the Horticultural Socicty’s Garden at Hdin"

128 FRUIT GARDEN.

burgh. Against a wall in Scotland, it ripens in October
and November, and on standards in November and Decem-
ber ; in England, it is from a month to six weeks earlier.
The tree seems nowise liable to canker.

The Forme de Marie Louise is an excellent standard
pear, though considerably smaller than the other. In Scot-
land it ripens freely in October and November.

The Dunmore Pear comes into use before the Marie
Louise, and is nearly of equal excellence.

Taylor’s Seedling, raised at Dunmore, is a good pear,
and so hardy as to succeed quite well as a standard.

Napoleon, of excellent quality ; from a wallin November
and December; and in January from standards, on which it
bears freely.

Duchesse @ Angoulenve (or Precel ?), a very large and
showy fruit, requiring a wall; good in January and Febru-
ary, and therefore valuable for lateness.

Buerré @ Aremberg.—This pear, if carefully kept in the
fruit room, will, in January, be found perfectly melting and
without grittiness, and rich, sweet, and high-flavored. The
tree is hardy, succeeding against an east or a west wall, or
as a standard in any sheltered situation, and bearing freely.

The Crasanne isan old French sort, of excellent quality,
with a tender and finely-flavored pulp. The tree deserves
a south or west aspect on a wall, and it succeeds also on an
espalier rail. The fruit ripens in November and Decem-
ber. |

The Althorp Crasanne is a first-rate pear, raised by Mr.
Knight, ripening in October and November ; flesh melting,
rich, and with a fine rose-water flavor. Succeeds on an east
or west wall, or on standards in good situations; the fruit
from standards being highest flavored.

The Urbaniste (often called Beurré Spence) is of a large

PEARS. 129

size, flesh melting, with a sweet, well-flavored juice, and
may be regarded as one of the very best pears. In Scotland
ripens against a south wall in October; on standards in
November.

The Colmar is also a first-rate pear, with a white flesh,
and of high flavor. In Scotland the tree requires a south
or west wall. From this the Poire d’Auch of the Conti-
nent seems scarcely to differ. It keeps tall February or
March.

The Passe Colmar is an admirable Flemish variety
lately introduced into this country; of excellent flavor ;
hardier, and a more abundant bearer than the preceding,
and more easily ripened, either against walls or on stand-
ards. It seems well adapted for flat espaliers. The
fruit is in maturity in December and January, and extends
into February.

The Glout Morceau (or Beurré d’Hardenpont) is excel-
lent, from a wall, in December and January. It has also
been found successful as a standard.

The Winter Beurré is in season in January and Feb-
ruary. The We plus Meuris is good on standards, and
keeps till March, and the tree is a free bearer.

The Easter Beurré.—Fruit large, obovate, green and
brown; flesh whitish-yellow, melting, and well flavored.
“Tt is,” says Mr. Thompson, “ hardy, and a good bearer ;
one of the most valuable spring sorts, compared with which
the early pears of short duration deserve not a wall; its
extensive cultivation for a long and late supply is, without
hesitation, strongly recommended.” In season from Janu-
ary to March. As the tree ripens its wood readily, it suc-
ceeds as a low standard, or trained to an espalier rail, even
in Scotland. But the experience of gardeners in the north

does not lead them to rank the fruit so high as Mr. Thomp-
6

130 FRUIT GARDEN.

son does, as, when trained against a south wall, it often
proves dry or mealy with little flavor.

Beurré Diel (named after a distinguished German po-
mologist) is a large handsome fruit, of the first quality,
coming in season in November and December from the
wall, and in January from standards. Mr. Thompson re-
marks that its branches should be kept rather thin, its
large and abundant foliage being apt to prevent the due
admission of sun and air to the fruit. ,

Beurré Rance, or de Ranz.—A Flemish variety, raised
by the late M. Hardenpont, and sometimes called Harden-
pont du printemps; ‘ the best very late sort yet known,”
(Hort. Cat.) It ripens with difficulty in Scotland, requir-
ing a south or west wall; but was found to be the best
pear produced in competition at a March meeting of the
Caledonian Horticultural Society. It resembles the col-
mars, but keeps longer.

The following, respecting which our limits will not per-
mit us to go into detail, may be considered highly valuable
sorts as late autumnal and winter pears; Autumn Colmar,
Delices d’Hardenpont, Fondante d’Automne, Beurré Bose,
Duhamel, Bezi de la Motte, Chaumontelle, Downton,
Louise Bonne of Jersey, Swiss Bergamot, Hacon’s In-
comparable, Winter Nelis, Swan Egg, Doyenné gris, and
Flemish Beauty. The St. Germain and Windsor may be
added ; but the trees are rather liable to canker.

The Forelle is one of the most beautiful pears; but itis
deficient in the more excellent quality of flavor.

The late Mr. Knight of Downton raised the following
new varieties, which are justly held in high repute: Mon-
arch, March Bergamot, Brougham, Oakley Park, Croft
Castle, and the Broompark, which last is not only excel-
lent but remarkably hardy.

PEARS. 131

Of the Kitchen Sorts, or stewing pears, we may name
the Double-fleur, Orange d’Hiver, Catillac, Uvedale’s St.
Germain or Belle de Jersey, and the Gros de Lyons. The
trees are placed against inferior walls, or trained to espalier
rails, or kept as dwarf standards. The Uvedale’s St. Ger-
main fruit often attains a very large size, especially against
a wall; but the Double-fleur is equal in size, and superior
in quality.

Pear trees are grafted either on what are called free-
stocks, or on dwarfing-stecks; for the former, which are
intended for full-sized trees, the seeds of the wilding-pear
should be sown; but frequently the pips of the perry-pears,
and sometimes of the common cultivated sorts are used.
For dwarfing the quince is preferred; but the white thorn,
as already mentioned, is occasionally employed. Where
the space is limited, or the ground is damp, the dwarfing-
stocks are the more suitable. It is a favorite doctrine with
some, that by budding or grafting on quince or hawthorn,
pears of too melting and sugary a quality acquire firmness
and acidity. To what extent this holds good has not been
correctly ascertained, but that the stock exerts a certain
degree of influence on the fruit is beyond dispute. Some
of the finer pears do not take so readily on the quince: in
this case double working is resorted to. For example, the
Virgoleuse may be easily budded on the quince, and the
Beurré d’Aremberg willafterwards succeed freely only on the
Virgouleuse. It may be mentioned, in passing, that the
ancient horticulturists seem to have supposed that a fruit
was improved by double working; and that the term
revnette, a name applied to a class of apples, is considered
as having been derived from the Latin renata, that is, a
tree grafted upon itself.

Tn selecting young pear trees, some prefer maiden plants,

132 FRUIT GARDEN.

that is, plants having the growth of one year from the
graft; but if good trees, trained for two or three years, can
be procured, so much the better. It is important to ascer-
tain that the stock and stem be clean and healthy, and to
take great care that no injury be done by bruising or tear-
ing the roots in lifting and removing. ‘The young trees
may be planted at any time, in mild weather, from the fall
of the leaf to the beginning of March. ~“Wall-trees require
from 25 to 30 feet of lineal space when on free-stocks, and
from 15 to 20 feet when dwarfed. Standards on free-stocks
in the orchard should be allowed at least 30 feet every way,
while for dwarfs 15 feet may suffice. When the trees are
trained en pyramide or en quenouille, they may stand
within eight feet of each other. It is very desirable that
the pear orchard should be in a warm situation, with a soil
deep, substantial, and well drained, or free from injurious
latent moisture. Without attention to these circumstances,
pear trees seldom succeed.

The fruit is produced on spurs; which appear on shoots
more than one year old; the object of the pruner, therefore,
ought to be to procure a fair supply of these spurs. The
mode of training wall pear-trees most commonly adopted is
the horizontal; but each of the forms already mentioned
(pp. 52, 58) hag its advantages, and is peculiarly adapted
to some particular habit of growth in the several varieties.
For the St. Germain and other twiggy sorts, the fan form
is to be preferred; for the Gansel’s Bergamot and other
strong growers, the half-fan or the horizontal. Inthe latter
form the trees may often be found fifteen, twenty, or even
thirty years old, during which time they acquire an undue
projection from the wall, and become scraggy and unman-
ageable. On the other hand, the finest fruit is produced
on young spurs, clearly indicating the necessity of a fre-

PEARS. 133

quent renovation of the spurs. This would lead to a prefer-
ence of the fan form, not, indeed, that which is commonly
practiced, for in it the spurs are as immovable as in any
other arrangement; but rather that recommended for
peaches, in which there is a continual renewal of the
branches. Or, if the horizontal form, which has certain
advantages, be adopted, it should be that modification ex-
hibited in p. 57 6. This is the method followed by Harri-
son in treating the Jargonell,

The summer pruning of established wall or espalier rail-
trees, consists chiefly in the timely displacing or rubbing
off the superfluous shoots, retaining only those which are
terminal or well placed for lateral branches. Where spurs
are wanted on the older wood, about two inches of a fore-
right shoot are left; and if this be done early, that is, be-
fore the shoot has become ligneous, it seldom fails to form
fruit-buds. In horizontal training the winter pruning is
nothing more than adjusting the leading shoots and thin-
ning out the spurs, which should be kept close to the wall
and allowed to retain only two, or at most three buds. In
fan-training the subordinate branches must be regulated, the
spurs thinned out, and the young laterals which had been
loosely nailed in during summer must be finally established
in their places. No crowding of branches should be per-
mitted. When horizontal trees have fallen into disorder
they may be renovated in the manner represented at p. 57 a,
a procedure patronized by Mr. Knight; or all the branches
may be cut back to within nine inches of the vertical stem
and branch, and trained in afresh as recommended by Mr.
Lindley.

When some of the finer pear trees produce an abundance
of blossom, but do not set well, as not unfrequently hap-
pens, artificial impregnation may be partially resorted to;

134 FRUIT GARDEN

that is, the blossom of some other kind of pear, plentifully
provided with pollen, may be taken, and the farina dusted
over the best looking blossoms of the less productive tree.

Summer and autumn pears should be gathered before they
be fully ripe, otherwise they will not in general keep more
than a few days. The Jargonelle, as Forsyth rightly ad-
vises, should be allowed to remain on the tree and pulled
daily as wanted, the standard fruit thus succeeding the pro-
duce of the wall-trees. In reference to the Crasanne, Mr.
Lindley recommends gathering the crop at three different
times, the first a fortnight or more before it be ripe, the se-
cond a week or ten days after, and a third when fully ripe.
The first gathering will come into eating latest, and thus the
season of the fruit may be considerably prolonged. It is
evident that the same method may be followed with the
Brown Beurré, Gansel’s Bergamot, and any others which
continue only a short time in a mature state.

The varieties, qualities, and relative merits of this fruit
seem to have drawn very particular attention from the
National Congress of Fruit-growers, at their several meet-
ings up to and including that in Boston in September, 1854,
when they adopted the following list, as including those of
the highest merits, viz :

The Madeleine, Beurre d’ Aremberg,

Dearborn’s Seedling, Rostiezer,

Bloodgood, Belle Lucratif, or Fondante d’Au-
Tyson, tomne,

Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Fulton,

Williams’s Bon Chretien, or Bartlett, Andrews

Seckel, Buffum,

Flemish Beauty, Urbaniste,

Beurre Bose, Vicar of Winkfield (or Le Cure),

Winter Nelis, Louise Bonne de Jersey,

Uvedale’s St. Germain,

Ananas d’ Ete,
Lawrence,
Beurre d’ Anjou,

PEARS. 135

AND FOR BAKING,

Doyenne d’ Ete,

Manning’s Elizabeth and Paradise
d’ Automne.

Beurre Diel.

For particular localities, the White Doyenne, and Grey Doyenne, com-

monly known us Butter Pears.

Belle Lucrative,
Beurre d’ Amalis,
Beurre d’ Anjou,
Beurre d’ Aremberg,
Beurre Diel,

Catillac,

Duchess @’ Angouleme,
Easter Beurre,

Figue d’ Alencon,
Glout Morceau,

Long Green of Cox,
Louisa Bon de Jersey,

PEARS ON QUINCE STOCK,

Napoleon,

Nouveau Poiteau,
Rostiezer,

Beurre Laugelier,
Soldat Laboreur,

St. Michael Archange,
Triomphe de Jodoigne,
Urbaniste,

Uvedale’s St. Germain for Baking,
Vicar of Winkfield,
White Doyenne.

To this list of pears of highest qualities, the same body
added the following, as giving promise of being worthy to
be placed on the list recommended for general cultivation :

Duchesse d’ Orleans,
Brandywine,
Chancellor,

Brande’s St. Germain,
Pratt,

Ott,

Striped Madeleine,

Jalousie de Fontenay Vendee,

Van Assene,

Doyenne Boussock.
Adams,

Alpha,

Beurre Clairgeau,
Beurre Giffard,
Beurre Steikman,
Beurre Superfine,
Charles Van Hoogten,

Duchess de Berry,
Epine Dumas,
Fondante de Malines,
Fondante de Noel,
Walker,

Howell,

Kingsessing,
Kirtland,

Limon,

Lodge of Penn,
Nouveau Poiteau,
Onondaga,

Pius IX.

Rouselette d’ Esperin,
Sheldon,

St. Michael Archange,;
Steven’s Genesee,

136 FRUIT GARDEN.

Collins, Striped Madeleine,

Comte de Flanders, Theodore Van Mons,
Doyenne Goubalt, Van Assene or Van Assche,
Beurre St. Nicholas, Zephyrine Gregoire.

It is worthy of notice that some of the very best pears
known in the United States have originated in the vicinity
of the city of Philadelphia; as, for example, the far-re-
nowned Seckel, the Washington, the Ott, the Tyson, and
the Chancellor.

Grafted on the quince, the pear tree does not generally
live long in the United States, especially where the soil is
dry, as the quince succeeds best in a moist loamy soil, and
pears grafted upon their stalks would doubtless also do far
better on such soils than when placed in sandy, gravelly,
or other dry situations.

The AprLe TREE (Pyrws Malus) is, under the name of
the Crab, known as a native of Britain. Most of the cul-
tivated. sorts, however, are of foreign origin, and it does
not seem probable that we possess at present any good
variety which is more than two hundred years old. The
finer high-flavored apples are prized for the dessert; the
juicy and poignant sorts are in request for tarts and sauce ;
while those of a more austere nature are manufactured into
cider.

Several kinds of stocks are used for apple trees. The
Dutch Paradise, propagated by layers, has long been used
as a stock for Dwarf apple trees, whether intended for the
wall or for standards. The Doucin of the French seems
closely allied to this, if not identical with it. The bur-
knot varieties increased by cuttings, or young codlin plants
procured from layers, furnish convenient stocks for trees
from which it is hoped to procure desirable seedlings. For
common purposes, the stocks raised from the pips of crabs

APPLES. 137

or of cider apples are preferred. Stocks kept one or two
years in nursery-lines are fit for grafting upon; but if a
considerably tali stem be wished, they must remain three
or four years in the nursery, and be pruned up, till they
attain five or six feet of height. In the Dutch nurseries,
where apple trees are trained for some years to the cup-
shape, the table, the pyramidal, or the bulb forms, before
they be sold to the public, the trees are repeatedly trans-
planted; but with us, where such forms are less sought
after, the utility of more transplantations than from the
seed-bed to the nursery-lines, and thence to the garden,
may, in Mr. Knight’s opinion, be questioned. Any com-
mon soil, provided the subsoil be dry, suits the apple tree.
Shallow planting should, in all cases, be practiced, and
young trees should be carefully staked, to prevent wind-
waying.

The fruit, as in the pear trec, is produced on spurs,
which come out on the branchlets of two or more years’
growth, and continue fertile for a series of years. There
is, therefore, no very material difference in the pruning
and training of the pear and of the appie tree. On walls,
the horizontal mode of training is commonly followed, as
best calculated to repress the too vigorous growth of the
tree: but for the nonpareil, and other twiggy varieties,
perhaps the fan form, or some modification of the fan form,
is preferable. For standards, where the soil is rich and
the growth rapid, all that is necessary in pruning is to
thin out the branches, and to prevent their crossing and
rubbing against each other. Where there is little luxu-
riance, as in the case of all dwarfs, it is useful to shorten
the branches occasionally, and to remove useless twigs.
Dwarfs on paradise stocks may be treated almost like cur-
rant-bushes; that is, making them open in the centre, or

138 FRUIT GARDEN

cup-shaped, to the great advantage both of the size and
beauty of the fruit. The general winter pruning may take
place any time from the beginning of November to the
beginning of March. After the winter pruning, some cul-
tivators delay the shortening of the young wood of the
former year till the middle or end of April, when the buds
have swollen. Cankered or diseased wood, and all un-
fruitful snags or ragged spurs, are then to be neatly cut
out. Where the scars are large, they should be laid over
with some composition calculated to resist the action of
the air and rain.

If the American blight, or woolly aphis (the Eviosoma
Mat of Leach) makes its appearance on a tree, the utmost
care should be taken to clean every part of the bark with
a hard brush and some searching wash; for, should the
insect be left unmolested, it will speedily spread over all
the apple trees in the neighborhood. It is often intro-
duced with imported trees brought from distant nurseries :
when this is observed, the pest is so grievous that the
entire sacrifice of two or three trees is a small price to pay
for its removal. Mr. Waterton, in his Essays on Natural
EMstory, recommends a simple remedy, which he found
effectual, viz., mix clay with water till it be of a consis-
tency to be applied like thick paint to the injured parts,
either with a trowel or a brush; a second coat upon the
first fills up every crack which may show itself when the
first coat becomes dry; the clay resists for a sufficient
length of time the effects both of sun and rain, and before
it gradually falls off every insect is completely smothered.

For the Storing of Pears and Apples there should be
attached to every considerable garden a commodious fruit-
room, well ventilated, furnished with fire-places or stoves
to exclude frost, and fitted up with a variety of shelves.

APPLES, 139

A northern aspect is the most suitable; and it is also
desirable that there should be a dry, cool cellar under it,
to be employed in retarding the maturation and decay of
sonie of the more fugitive varieties. All the fruit intended
for keeping should be plucked with the hand, or with such
an implement as the fruit-gatherer invented by Mr. Saul,
of Lancaster. For the finer dessert fruits the shelves
should be made of hard wood, not of fir, and the fruit
should be laid upon cartridge or writing paper, to prevent
its imbibing any taint from the wood. The kitchen fruit
may be kept in layers two or three deep, but not in heaps,
and should be occasionally examined, when decaying fruit
is to be removed. The sweating of apples and pears, for-
merly much practiced, is now abandoned, as being attended.
with no useful effects.

In the United States, this most rales of all fruits is
of universal culture, although it attains to highest perfec-
tion in the Middle and some of the Northern States. The
catalogue of the apple of the London Horticultural Soci-
ety, including no less than 1,400 varieties, shows an im-
mense increase since the days of Pliny, when only twenty-
two were named. Of the kinds which have been intro-
duced into the United States from abroad, many of great
value are found in various parts of the country: the fol-
lowing have been pronounced of the highest merit by the
National Congress of Fruit-growers held up to 1854:

Early Harvest, Vandervere,

Large Yellow Bough, White Seek-no-further,
American Summer Pearmain, William’s Favorite (except for
Summer Rose, light soils),

Early Strawberry, Wine Apples or Hays,
Gravenstein, Ladies’ Sweet,

Fall Pippin, Lady Apple,

Rhode Island Greening, Fameuse Danvers Winter Sweet,

140 FRUIT GARDEN.

Baldwin, Bullock’s Pippin,

Roxbury Russet, Hubbardston’s Nonsuch.
Melon, And for particular localities—
Minister, Yellow Belle Fleur,

Porter, Esopus Spitzenburg,

Red Astrachan, Newtown Pippin,

Swaar, Canada Red Northern Spy.

TABLE APPLES.

The earliest and best of these are the following: The
Early Harvest, which, in the climate of New York, begins
to ripen in the end of July, is of good size, yellow, tender
flesh, rich subacid pleasant flavor. Tree erect and good
bearer.

The Early Bough.—A large, yellow, sweet, tender,
juicy, excellent apple—tree a good bearer, and ripens in
August.

The Red Astrachan is another very fine early apple—
ripens in August. It is rather large; crimson, rich acid
and handsome. ‘Tree a good bearer and ripens in August,

The Early Strawberry and Early Joe are smaller but
delicious apples—ripen with the Red Astrachan in Au-
gust. Next in season comes the Swamer Rose, a fine ap-
ple, and this is followed by the Gravenstewm, Fall Pippin,
Autumn Strawberry, Hawley, Dyer, Northern Sweet and
Porter.

Among our winter apples the most productive and one
of the best is the Rhode Island Greening, next Baldwin,
Roxbury Russet and Golden Russet, long keepers. H.
Spitsenburgh, Yellow Bell flower, Swaar, Jonathan, King,
Northern Spy, (Norton’s melon and Wagener delicate table
apples,) Red Canada, Vandervere, Ladies, Bailey, and
Talman Sweet, and last but best for export, Newtown Pip-
pin, which is only productive in some localities, or with
high cultivation.

QUINCE. 141

Under favorable circumstances of climate and soil, the
apple tree attains to great age. In Herefordshire, Eng-
land, there are said to be trees 1,000 years old. The ordi-
nary, or perhaps average duration of healthy trees grafted
on crab stocks and planted in a strong tenacious soil, has
been computed by Mr. Knight—a great English authority
upon such subjects—at 200 years. Old trees headed down
to standard height, the branches being topped off within a
foot or two of the trunk, and the young shoots grafted
upon, may thus be made productive in a very short time.

Of American apples, the best for the English climate is
the Boston Russet. Mr. Thompson states that the tree is
quite hardy, very productive, and suitable for dwarf train-
ing; the fruit juicy, with a flavor between that of the Rib-
stone and Nonpareil, and in season from December till
April. The Newton, or Long Island Pippin, seldom comes
to perfection in Britain.

There are three kinds of the Paradise apple used by
nurserymen for grafting upon to produce dwarf trees. The
smallest is commonly known as the French Paradise.
Next comes the common English Paradise, which is rather
larger, and the largest of all the dwarf Paradise apples is
what the French call Doucin.

The Quince (Pyrus Cydonia), allied to the apple, is a
native of the south of Germany. It is but little cultivat-
ed in Britain. The fruit, which is austere when raw, is
well calculated for giving flavor and poignancy to stewed
or baked apples. The two principal sorts are the Portugal
Quince and the Pear Quince, of which the latter is the
most productive, while it serves the usual culinary pur-
poses equally well as the other. Quinces may be propa-
gated by layers, or by cuttings, or by graftings. Two or

3s

142 FRUIT GARDEN.

three trees planted in the slip or orchard are in gencral
sufficient. In Scotland, the fruit seldom approaches ma-
turity, unless favored by a wall.

In the United States, the quince grows almost every-
where, although it does best in a mellow soil retentive of
moisture, and in situations partially shaded. The tree
may be propagated by grafting, and also by cuttings and
layers. It is of slow growth, much branched, and generally
crooked: when planted in an orchard the trees may be
placed ten or twelve feet apart.

The following named kinds are best known in the United
States: The Pear Quince, so named for its pyriform shape;
the Apple Quince, from its rounder form; the Portugal
Quince, the taste of which is less harsh than that which
generally distinguishes other quinces. When made into
marmalade, its pulp has the property of assuming a beau-
tiful purple hue. For these qualities, the fruit is highly
esteemed, although the tree is a shy bearer.

The Mild or Eatable Quince is still less austere than
the other kinds. The Orange Quince, besides being a
handsome fruit, possesses a fine flavor. The Musk or Pine-
apple Quince is very large and beautiful.

The Meprar (Mespilus Germanica) is a native of the
south of Europe, but has been naturalized in some parts
of the south of England. The varieties worth notice are
the Dutch Medlar, with broad leaves; and the Nottingham
Medlar, with narrow leaves ; of these the latter is consider-
ed the best. The fruit is gathered in November, and kept
till it begins to decay, when it is served up in the dessert,
and highly relished by some. The treatment recommend-
ed for the quince may be applied to the medlar.

The trees of this family are very handsome, and deserve

MULBERRY. 1438

a place in every shrubbery. Any common soil suits them,
and they are readily propagated by budding or grafting on
the common hawthorn, or by the seeds, which, however, do
not come up till the second year. The common medlar is
found growing wild in English hedges, and in this state
has thorns which disappear under culture. Several varie-
ties have been produced differing in size and flavor. The
fruit has a harsh taste, which unfits it for eating until it
has been mellowed by long keeping.

The Servic—E Tree (Pyrus domestica) is a native of
the mountainous parts of Cornwall, and though not much
cultivated, may be here noticed. The fruit has a peculiar
acid flavor, and is used only when thoroughly mellowed by
keeping. There is a pear-shaped, and also an apple-shaped
variety, both of which may be propagated by layers, and
still better by grafting on seedling plants of their own
kind. Two or three trees may have a place in the orchard,
or perhaps in a sheltered corner of the lawn. -The tree is
seldom productive till it have arrived at a goodly age.
The fruit is brought to Covent Garden Market in winter ;
but it is never seen at Edinburgh. Near Paris, the tree
is a good deal cultivated under the name of cormer ; and
there are a number of varieties of the Service grown in the
north of Italy.

The Murserry (Morus nigra) is a native of Persia, and
in England requires a warm sheltered situation. The
fruit is in request for the dessert during the months of
August and September, having a rich aromatic flavor, and
a fine subacid juice. Where it is abundant, wine is made
from it. In Devonshire, a little of the juice added to full-
bodied cider, produces a delicious beverage, called Mulber-

144 FRUIT GARDEN.

ry Cider, which retains its flavor for many months. The
mulberry is propagated by cuttings or by layers, but, to
expedite the production of fruit, it is useful to inarch small
bearing branches on stocks prepared in flower-pots. Mul-
berry standard trees succeed only in the southern coun-
ties. These require no other training than an occasional
thinning out of the branches. They are generally planted
on grassy lawns, so that when ripe fruit falls from the
higher branches, it can be gathered up without having sus-
tained injury. In the middle districts, espalier rails may
be employed, particularly under the reflection of a south
wall. In colder situations, the mulberry must be treated
as a wall-tree; and it has been recommended that the bear-
ing shoots should be trained perpendicularly downwards.
Mr. Knight strongly advises the forcing of this fruit in
flower-pots, much in the same way as is done with figs.
The mulberry as a fruit is little known in Scotland; but
a few aged trees exist in old gardens, and in favorable sea-
sons afford their berries.

The Hazet (Corylus Avellana), one of the indigenous
edible nuts of England, is the original parent of the red
and white Filbert, Cobnut, Crossford-nut, Frizzled, Span-
ish, and other improved varieties. These succeed best on
a rich dry loam, carefully worked, and receiving from time
to time a slight manuring. They are generally planted in
the slip, but thrive best in a quarter by themselves. The
varieties are propagated by layers or by suckers; but
where there are stocks of the common hazel, the other kinds
may be grafted upon them. The Cosford is generally pre-
ferred, being thin-shelled, and having a kernel of high
flavor. If the Filbert or the Cosford be grafted on small
stocks of the Spanish nut, which grows fast, and does not

HAZEL, 145

send out side-suckers, dwarfish prolific trees may be ob-
tained ; and by pruning the roots in autumn, the trees
may be kept dwarf.

The neighborhood of Maidstone in Kent has long been
celebrated for the culture of nuts for the London market ;
and as the best Kentish practice is scarcely known in other
parts of Britain, we may enter a little into detail. The
young plants are almost, always suckers from old bushes,
and are planted about ten or twelve feet apart. They are
suffered to grow without restraint for about three years,
and are then cut down to within a few inches of the ground.
They push out five or six shoots; and these in their second
year are shortened one-third. A hoop is then placed with-
in the branches, and the shoots are fastened to it at nearly
equal distances. In the spring of the fourth year, all the
laterals are cut off close by the principal stems, and from
these cut places short shoots proceed, on which fruit is ex-
pected in the following year. Those which have borne
fruit are removed by the knife, and an annual supply of
young skoots is thus obtained. The leading shoots are
always shortened about two-thirds, and every bearing twig
is deprived of its top. In the early spring-pruning, atten-
tion should be given that a supply of male blossoms be
left, and all suckers should be carefully eradicated. These
Kentish nut-plantations somewhat resemble large quarters
of gooseberry bushes, few of the trees exceeding six feet
in height. For additional information, the reader may be
referred to a paper on this subject by the Rev. Mr. Wil-
liamson, in the fourth volume of the Transactions of the
London Horticultural Society.

The English Filbert has not, as yet, been cultivated with
much interest or success in the United States, the woods
of which, however, produce a native hazel nut, which, by

146 FRUIT GARDEN.

judicious culture and perhaps hybridizing with the Kuro~
pean Filbert, might be made a desirable fruit, equal to and
perhaps superior to any kind known at the present day.
Mr. Downing has published a paper upon the culture of
the filbert in the United States, to the soil and chmate of
which he thinks the varieties known in England as Cosford,
Frizzled, and Northampton Prolific, best adapted. When
gathered ripe, filberts will keep and retain a good flavor
longer than any other kind of nut. In dry rooms they
will keep well for many years, whilst in air-tight jars they
may be kept an indefinite period.

The Watnut (Juglans regia) is a native of Persia and
the south of the Caucasus, and in Britain, therefore, the
fruit seldom comes to complete maturity, except in the
warmer districts. Besides the common walnut, there are
several varieties cultivated in England, particularly the
Large-fruited or Double Walnut, the Tender-shelled, and
the Thetford or Highflyer, which last is said (Lond. Hort.
Trans., iv., 517) to be “by far the best walnut grown.”’
The varieties can be propagated with certainty only by
budding or inoculating; but the operation is rather nice,
and not unfrequently fails. Mr. Knight’s method is de-
scribed in the London Transactions, vol. ii. p. 138.
Plants raised from the seed seldom become productive till
they be twenty years old. The fruit is produced at the
extremities of the shoots of the preceding year; and there-
fore, in gathering the crop, care should be taken not to in-
jure the young wood. In Kent, the trees are thrashed
with rods or poles; but this is rough, and far from being
a commendable mode of collecting the nuts.

The Cuestnut (Castanea vesea), like the preceding, has

CURRANTS. 147

long been an inmate of thé woods of England, in which it
grows to a great size; but it seldom ripens its fruit in the
northern parts of the island. Several varieties, remarka-
ble for their productiveness and carly bearing, have of late
years risen into notice; particularly Knight’s Prolific, the
New Prolific, and the Devonshire. These are propagated
by grafting upon stocks raised from nuts; and when grafts
are taken from bearing wood, fruit may be produced in a
couple of years. The tree thrives best on a dry subsoil.

This tree is by no means so extensively cultivated in the
United States as it deserves to be. The wild chestnuts of
the forests are very abundant and very sweet. But they
are far surpassed in size by the varieties brought from Ku-
rope, the product of which bear a very high price in the
markets of American cities. They are readily propagated
from seed of excellent quality, but the most select varieties
must be procured through grafting and budding. Some
English catalogues contain 30 or 40 varieties of cultivated
chestnuts. The American Chinquapin is a very small spe-
cies of chestnut, not flattened but rounded, and terminating
at one extremity in a point. It is very common in the
woods of the Southern States, and southern portions of
some of the Middle States, growing about 20 to 30 feet in
height. The Chinquapin is very sweet and agreeable to
the taste, and deserves cultivation, selling well in the
market.

SMALL FRUITS.

The Red, White, and Black Currant, the Gooseberry,
the Raspberry, the Strawberry, and Cranberry, are usually
cultivated in English gardens, under the title of Small
Fruits. Their economical uses in cookery, confectionery,

148 FRUIT GARDEN.

and in the manufacture of home-made wines, attach to
them considerable importance, and render desirable a sepa-
rate account of them, however brief.

The Rzbes rubrum, Lin., includes as its varieties the Red
and White Currants. ‘The principal subvarieties are:

Common Red, Champagne,
Red Dutch, “Common White,
Knight’s Sweet Red, Dutch White.

Red and white currants are readily propagated by cut-
tings. They succeed in any sort of common garden soil ;
but seem to thrive best in warm, moist situations, where
they enjoy an abundance of air. <A few plants are some-
times placed against walls on which they are trained per-
pendicularly. Currants are sometimes planted in single
lines, in the borders which separate the plots in the kitchen
garden; but it is generally better to confine them to com-
partments by themselves. In these they should be ar-
ranged in quincunx order, at six feet between the lines, and
six feet apart in the line. They may be transplanted at
any time between the fall of the leaf and the first move-
ment of the sap. They are trained as bushes, from single
stems of about a foot in height, care being taken to prevent
the main branches from crossing each other. In winter, the
young bearing wood on the sides of the branches is shortened
down into spurs, from an inch to two inches in length. The
leading shoots are left about six inches long. Some care-
ful cultivators reduce the young shoots to about half their
length as soon as the fruit begins to color, an operation
which, in consequence of the more free admission of sun, is
found to increase the size and improve the flavor of the berries.

Of Ribes nigrum, Lin., or black current, there are seve-
ral varieties, of which we need mention only the Common

GOOSEBER RIES. 149

Black, and the Black Naples. The latter is machusited the
preferable sort. The black currant thrives best in a moist,
deep soil, and shady situation. Its culture is much the
same as that of the other currants, but the young shoots
are not spurred. All the pruning necessary is to keep the
branches free of each other, and to promote a succession of
young wood.

The American Congress of Fruit-growers at its meeting
in the city of New York in 1849, recommended the follow-
ing as the best varieties of currants for cultivation: Red
Dutch, Black Naples, White Dutch, May’s Victoria, and
White Grape.

Tur GoosEeBeRRY.—Botanists distinguished two species;
Ribes Grossularia, or rough-fruited gooseberry ; and Rabes
uva crispa, or smooth-fruited gooseberry. The gooseberry
has always been a favorite fruit in Great Britain, and is
said to be produced in the middle districts of the island in
greater perfection than in any other part of the world.
Many very large sorts have originated in Lancashire, where
the culture has been carried toa high degree of refinement ;
but it is to be regretted that weight seems, unreasonably
enough, to be regarded in the prize competitions in that
duchy as the sole criterion of excellence. Berries of twenty
or even twenty-four pennyweights are boasted of; but such
Goliaths are almost always inferior in flavor. The follow-
ing are some of those sorts recommended in the catalogue
of the London Horticultural Society.

Red.—Red Champagne, Ironmonger, Rob Roy, Small
Red Globe, Keen’s Seedling, Lord of the Manor, Leigh’s
Rifleman, Red Warrington, Wellington’s Glory, Shipley’s
Black Prince.

Yellow.—Yellow Ashton, Yellow Champagne, Golden

150 FRUIT GARDEN.

Yellow, Smiling Beauty, Smooth Yellow, Yellow-smith,
Rumbullion.

White-—Bright Venus,’ White Champagne, Cheshire
Lass, White Crystal, White Damson, Whitesmith, White
Honey.

Green.— Green Gascoigne, Pitmaston, Green-gage, Lang-
ley Green, Late Green, Green Laurel, Gregory’s Perfec-
tion, Green Walnut, Jolly Tar, Cupper’s Bonny Lass.

In forming his collection, the horticulturist should espe-
cially select a few early and a few late sorts, and by pro-
perly disposing the bushes in various situations in his gar-
den, he may prolong the fruit season by several weeks.
The same object may be further promoted by defending the
fruit of the late sorts from the attacks of wasps, which is
accomplished by surrounding the bushes with bunting (the
thin stuff of which ships’ flags are often made); and also
by retarding the ripening of the fruit, which is done by
covering up the bushes with bast-mats. This last contriyv
ance, however, answers better with currants than with
gooseberries.

The gooseberry-bush affects a loose rich soil, which
readily imbibes but does not retain much moisture.
Gooseberries, like currants, may be grown in lines or com-
partments. They are propagated by cuttings, and may be
transplanted, in open weather, during any of the winter
months. They are trained with single stems, from six
inches, to a foot high; and all suckers, which are apt to
spring up from the roots should be carefully removed.
Formerly it was the practice in Scotland to spur all the
annual wood; but now the black currant system of pruning
is more generally and advantageously followed. The ground
on which the bushes stand is carefully digged once a year ;
and manure, when necessary, is at the same time added. No

RASPBERRY. 151

farther culture is requisite than keeping down weeds, and
preventing the extensive ravages of caterpillars. This last
object is best attained by employing persons (women and
children) to pick them off on their first appearance. Goose-
berry plants are sometimes trained on walls or espaliers,
to accelerate the ripening, or increase the size of the fruit:
In the United States :

Houghton Seedling. Roaring Lion, and
Woodward’s Whitesmitk, Sheba Queen,

eomprise a good selection for use. The Congress of Fruit
Growers have recommended

Crown Bob, Harly Sulphur,
Green Gage, Green Walnut,
Houghton Seedling, Iron Monger,
Laurel Red Champagne, Washington,

Woodward Whitesmith.

The Raspserry (Rubus Idewus) is, like the preceding
small fruits, a native of Great Britian. The principal
varieties are :—

Red Antwerp, Knevett’s Giant,
Yellow Antwerp, Cornish,
Falstaff, Williams’ Double Bearing.

Of these, the first two have never been surpassed, and are
generally sufficient fer all common purposes. Raspberries
are propagated from suckers, which are planted in rows
five or six feet apart, and at three feet from each other in
the rows. The fruit is produced on small branches which
proceed from the shcots of the former year. Every year
they throw up a number of shoots or canes from the root,
which bear fruit the subsequent year, and then decay. In
dressing the plants in winter, all the decayed stalks are cut
away, and of the young canes only three or four of the

152 FRUIT GARDEN.

strongest are left, which are shortened about a third. As
the stalks are too weak to stand by themselves, they are
sometimes connected together by the points in the manner
of arches, so as to antagonize and mutually support each
other, and sometimes they are attached to stakes. Perhaps
the best support is obtained by fastening the points of the
shoots to a slight horizontal rail or bar about four feet high,
and placed a foot and a half on the south side of the rows.
By this means the bearing shoots are deflected from the
perpendicular to the sunny side of the row, and are not
shaded by the annual wood. The ground between the rows
should be well digged in winter, and kept clean. Fresh plan-
tations of raspberries should be made every six or seven years.
The double-bearing varieties, which continue to bear during
autumn, require light soils and warm situations. It may
be mentioned that the crop of any of the varieties may be
retarded by breaking off the points of the bearing shoots at
an early period in spring; but, like all other fruits, the
flavor of the raspberry is highest when it is allowed to
ripen at its natural season.

Although several varieties of this fruit are found growing
wild in the United States, some of which are exceedingly
fine flavored, as for example, those abounding in the north-
ern states and British provinces, still the best cultivated
kinds have been brought from Europe. Nichol enumer-
ates twenty-three varieties, among which are the American
red and blaek, the Long Island, the Virginia, the Ohio
ever-bearing, and the Pennsylvania. Some of the Ameri-
can varieties may be propagated by layers, so as to pro-
duce fruit the second year. New kinds of choice qualities
from the seed of the best European, often hybridized with
native American varieties, are produced in the United

BLACKBERRY. 153

States. One of the most successful culturists is Dr. Wm.
Brinckle, of Philadelphia, who has eriginated many kinds
of the highest merit, such as Orange, Wilder, Curling, &e.

The American Congress of Fruit-growers, at its meeting
in the city of New York, in 1849, agreed upon the fol-
lowing varieties as most worthy of cultivation: The Red
Antwerp, Yellow Antwerp, Franconia, and Falstaff, and as
giving promise of being worthy to add to the list of Kne-
vett’s Giant.

LAWTON BLACKBERRY.

154 FRUIT GARDEN.

The Buacxserry is becoming an important fruit in the
United States. Thousands of bushels are gathered from
the woods and open lands of our country and brought into
market. Various attempts have been made to cultivate
these wild plants, but usually with very indifferent success.
Capt. Lovett, of Mass., has succeeded with an improved
variety of raising fine fruit, but a complaint is made that
they degenerate under other treatment. A new variety
was discovered some years since at New Rochelle, near
New York, and brought into notice by Wm. Lawton, Esq.,
of that place, which seems to supply the desideratum. It
is very large,a great bearer, pulpy, and delicious flavor. It
loves a cool, moist, shady soil; is easily cultivated, and is
every where becoming a universal favorite. The Congréss
of Fruit Growers have adopted it. It is called the Law-
ton, or New Rochelle Blackberry.

The Strawserry (Fragaria) belongs to the same na-
tural family as the raspberry. Amongst the numerous
kinds cultivated in English gardens, botanists have dis-
tinguished several speczes, but as these distinctions imply
no difference in culture, and as it is difficult to trace them
amid the sportings of the hybrids, we shall not pretend to
enumerate them. Scarcely any plant more readily slides into
seminal varieties; and, indeed, till lately, in consequence
of the irregular prevalence of local names, their whole
nomenclature was a chaos of confusion. At the instance
of the Horticultural Society of London, Mr. Barnet under-
took a revision of the subject: and, with great acuteness
and discrimination, has removed much ambiguity, and
finally settled the names of the existing varieties. His
paper, which is well worth the perusal of every student of
horticulture, is in the sixth volume of the London Trans-
actions. In the second edition of the Catalogue of the
London Horticultural Society, no fewer than 112 varieties
are enumerated. But the following are sufficient, and an

STRAWBERRY. 155

asterisk is prefixed to those most worthy of cultivation in
small gardens :—

* Old Scarlet or Virginian. Swainstone Seedling.

* Grove End Scarlet. * Qld Pine or Carolina.

* Keen’s Seedling, Wilmot’s Superb.

* Roseberry. Myatt’s Pine.
Downtown. Myatt’s British Queen.

* Knevett’s. Large Flat Hautbois.

* Elton. Prolific Hautbois.
American Scarlet. Alpine, red and white.
Coul Late Scarlet. Wood, red and white.

The Elton and Keen’s Seedling excel in size and beauty ;
Myatt’s Pine in delicious flavor, but the fruit of this last
is produced sparingly.

The strawberry plant is propagated either from runners
or from seed. When runners are employed, they are some-
times planted in autumn, or rather as soon as they have
struck root into the ground. Most commonly, however,
they are permitted to remain unseparated from the parent
plants till spring; a practice not to be commended, for it
debilitates the old plants, and prevents the earth between
the rows from being stirred and cleaned: deep digging be-
tween rows is calculated to destroy the roots, and ought to
be avoided. As, upon the whole, spring planting seems
preferable, it would perhaps be well to adopt the practice
of some gardeners, who are at pains to prick out the off-
sets, as soon as they are rooted into beds of rich soil, from
which they are transplanted into their proper places early
in the spring :

The desire of new varieties has encouraged the practice
of propagating by seed; and Keen, Knevett, Myatt, and
others, have been extremely successful. Mr. Knight hay-
ing observed that the young runners of the alpine straw-
berry flower and ripen fruit the first year, was led to adopt
this mode of reproduction, and followed it with the hap-

156 FRUIT GARDEN.

piest success. arly in spring he sowed the seed in flower-
pots, which were put into a hotbed; and as soon as the
plants attained a sufficient size, they were transplanted
into the open ground. They began to blossom soon after
midsummer, and continued to produce fruit till interrupted
by frost. Thus Mr. Knight is inclined to treat the alpine
strawberry as an annual plant. The same practice has
been recommended in France by M. Morel de Vindé (Cad,
Hort. Mem., vol. iii.) ; but he very properly preserves his
plants for three years, sowing every year a successional
crop. Mr. Keen has applied this method of culture to the
wood strawberry ; and we doubt not but it might be ex-
tended with beneficial effects to the Old Scarlet and others
of the less artificial varieties.

A clayey soil or strong loam is considered as best suited
to strawberry plants. On a sandy or very light soil they
seldom succeed in England; and in very close situations,
and over-rich ground, most varieties produce little else
than leaves. Before planting, the ground should be
trenched, or digged over deeply, and when stiff and com-
pact it should be very carefully worked. Keen, and
others in the neighborhood of London, grow their straw-
berries in beds, three rows in each, with an alley between
them. The market-gardeners of Edinburgh, who, in the
culture of this fruit, are perhaps not excelled by any,
plant in rows two feet asunder, and from a foot to fifteen
inches in the rows. When the weather is dry, the young
plants are watered till they be well established. As little
fruit is produced the first year, a line of carrots, onions, or
other vegetables, is often sown between the rows for one
season. In May the runners are cut off, with the view of
promoting the swelling of the fruit. During dry weather,
careful cultivators water their plants while in flower, and

’ STRAWBERRY. 157

particularly after the fruit is set, and occasionally till it
begin to color. The old practice, from which the fruit
derives its name, of laying straw between the rows to pre-
vent the soiling of the fruit, has been recently revived; and
where there are dressed lawns, the short cut grass may be
‘employed for the same purpose. As soon as the fruit sea-
son is over, the runners are again removed ; the straw or
grass is taken away, and the ground hoed and raked. In
October the runners, and also the reclining, but not the
erect, leaves, are cut away, and the surface of the earth is
stirred with a three-pronged fork, great care being taken
not to injure the roots. Strawberries may be raised from
the same ground for an indefinite space of time, but the
plants should be renewed every third or fourth year. In
the garden they are generally put in a quarter by them-
selves, and it should be one fully exposed to the sun and air.
The alpine and wood varieties may be placed in situations
rather moist and shady, as edgings in the'slips or in rows
behind walls and hedges, in which situations they succeed
perfectly well, and produce fruit late in the season.

If strawberries be planted on a good border, in rows a
yard asunder, a crop of early peas may be taken between
the rows; and the peas may be succeeded by Cape broc-

coli, which seems not only not to be hurt by the excretion
from the roots of the peas, but to remove any noxious
quality thus imparted to the soil. The regular manuring
for these crops keeps the strawberries in good vigor. The
bed should not occupy the same ground more than three
or four consecutive seasons.

Strawberries have always been a favorite dessert fruit.
They likewise form an excellent preserve; and from their
freedom from excess of acid seem well adapted to the
manufacture of home wine. To this purpose they have

158 FRUIT GARDEN.

been only partially employed; but the samples of straw-
berry wine which we have tasted had more of the vinous
flavor than any other of our domestic wines. The culture
of strawberries is the most lucrative part of the employ-
ment of the market-gardener, at least near large towns.
In England it is not uncommon for him to realize a clear
profit of £25 or £35, or even more, per imperial acre of
strawberry ground. The greater the diligence and assi-
duity of the cultivator, the greater will be his returns. It
is a common and just remark, that too little labor is, in
general, expended upon the strawberry, and by the igno-
rant and unskilful gardener least of all.

In some places, a strawberry bank is formed in this
way: A ridge of earth, consisting of rich loam if possible,
is formed, about six feet broad at the base, and about five
feet high in the centre, running nearly from north to
south. Along the centre of the ridge a narrow channel is
formed, into which water may be poured, so as to perco-
late the sides. Along the sloping sides bricks are placed
like the steps of a stair, and in the interstices, between the
bricks, strawberry plants are inserted. In this way the
plants have the fullest advantage of sunshine, the fruit is
kept perfectly clean, and its early maturity promoted by
the reflected heat of the bricks.

Strawberries are extensively forced. The Old Scarlet,
Old Pine, Roseberry, Grove End, and Keen’s Seedling,
are found suitable for this purpose. The latter has the
advantage of being early, prolific, and yielding large fruit ;
but the Old Scarlet and the Old Pine have the superiority
in flavor. The plants must be in a course of preparation
for nearly a year before the fruit can be expected. They
are potted in April with rich soil, two or three young
plants being put into a pot of eight or ten inches in diam-

STRAWBERRY. 159

eter. During summer they are kept in a warm situation
and encouraged to grow, flowers and runners being care-
fully picked off. In the beginning of winter they are shel-
tered in cold frames, and they are afterwards successively
placed into hotbeds or forcing-houses, so as to keep up a
succession of fruiting plants. The air should be kept
moist, and they must be plentifully supplied with water.
Where the means are abundant, a moderate supply of ripe
fruit may thus be maintained during the late winter and
the spring months. Some cultivators provide new plants
for forcing every year. But the same plants may be forced
for several successive years, provided they be shifted in
August, and, at the time of repotting, the black torpid
roots be cut off, leaving only those of a paler color, and
which are connected with the new shoots or offsetts.

At the meeting in 1849 of the National Congress of
Fruit-growers, the following varieties were recommended
as the very best for culture, namely : Large Karly Scarlet,
Hovey’s Seedling, Boston Pine; and, as giving promise of
being worthy to be added to the list, Burr’s New Pine,
and Jenney’s Seedling,

The Large Early Scarlet is of medium size, staminate
or male, moderately but uniformly productive, and of good
flavor.

Hovey Seedling is very large. Specimens are often four,
five and even six inches in circumference; dark red, and
very handsome oval shape, sometimes coxcomb ; reasonably
productive when not too richly cultivated; of good flavor,
and a favorite fruit for the table or market. In some
locations and under some cultivators it is a fickle bearer.
Pistillate.

Boston Pine is also a large, round, high flavored fruit,
bears*high cultivation well; should be in single plants two

160 FRUIT GARDEN.

to three feet apart, when it often bears very large crops.
This variety also sometimes proves a poor bearer. Stam-
nate.

Burr’s New Pine, is a pale red, large, oval, very sweet,
aromatic, exquisite flavored berry, a uniform good bearer,
early and bears long; too tender for market. P2stvd/ate.

Jenny’s Seedling, is a very bright, solid, handsome, rich
flavored fruit, oval shape, late in season, and a good mode-
rate bearer. Pistillate.

Monroe Scarlet.—A large, good flavored fruit ; a uniform
large bearer in large trusses. Pestidlate.

Me Avoy’s Superior, new; very large; good flavored
and productive. Prstillate.

McAvoy's Extra Red, new; very large; handsome,
medium flavor, bears enormous crops; hard and good for
market. Pestillate.

Moyamensing Pine, good size ; handsome ; fair bearer ;
good market fruit.

Longworth’s Prolific, new ; staminate; very large, dark
handsome fruit, good flavor, and productive.

Walkers Seedling, new ; staminate, medium size, dark
purple, oval, good flavor, and productive.

Crimson Cone, very handsome, long, acid berry; pro-
ductive ; a common market fruit of medium size.

Rival Hudson, similar to above, only not so handsome.

Willey, very productive, but medium size, round.

Alice Maude.—A great favorite at Washington, D. C.,
and South. A long, glossy, handsome fruit, productive
and fair flavor.

Black Prince, very handsome purple fruit; large, a
- not usually high flavored.

Large White Picton Pine and Barr's New White.—
Two new varieties of large, rich fruit, and tolerably pro-
ductive.

STRAWBERRY. 161

The Alpines are small, productive, and sweet.

The Bush Alpines are nice for borders.

Mr. Hovey raised the Seedling which goes by his name,
and the celebrated Boston Pine, from the same lot of seed.
He states that it is the character of his Seedling, as it is of
the Early Virginia and some other varieties of the straw-
berry, rarely to produce more than three or four trusses of
fruit to each root, so that they require to be grown thickly
in beds to produce good crops. This, however, was not
generally the case with the Boston Pine, the tendency of
which is to produce ten or twelve trusses of fruit to each
root, so that one hundred and fifty berries had been count-
ed on a single plant. In consequence of this characteristic,
when the vines occupy all the ground, there is a deficiency
of nourishment and the berries do not fill up. Hence many
failures had occurred in the cultivation of this variety,
which required more room than other kinds; when grown
in rows with a foot or more space left between, and that
space well manured, the crop was most abundant. When
planted in hills, one or more feet apart each way, and one
or more plants in each place, the runners could be kept
clipped off, and the ground tilled with either the hos,
plough or cultivator.

Strawberry plants are commonly designated as male and
female, and it is of great importance to understand how to
distinguish these apart, since a bed with too large a pro-
portion of male plants will prove very unproductive. The
distinction can be readily made when in flower, the blos-
soms of the females having an entirely green centre, whilst
those that exhibit a great many yellow stamens represent
the male, or barren plants. Such flowers as have only a
portion of stamens around the base of the green conical

162 FRUIT GARDEN.

eentre of the flower, are termed staminate or perfect
blossoms.

In the United States, strawberry plants are set out
either in the spring months of March and April, or in the
months of August and September. A good size for beds
is four feet wide with three rows of plants about fifteen
inches apart. ‘The beds may have walks two or two anda
half feet wide for the workers or pickers to msve in.

After the middle of July, the runners not required to
produce fresh plants are to be clipped off or otherwise
destroyed. The beds should be weeded so that the soil
may be kept clean and open, and in light soils a few inches
of well-rotted leaf mold should be dug in between the rows
every fall. Where exposed to severe cold, some straw or
rough litter should be lightly spread over the beds in win-
ter. In dry seasons, after the plants have done blooming,
it will generally be of great service to the fruit to have the
beds occasionally watered with weak liquid manure of some
kind, either the draining from the cattle yard or other
fertilizing liquid. A solution of guano, in the proportion
of one lb. to six or eight gallons of water, will answer very
well. Manure must generally be given in some way or
other if very large fruit is wanted. As the beds will not
generally produce well longer than three or four years, it
is requisite to have a succession of new ones coming on in
other places. Itis recommended to set out the female
plants, with the exception of every fifth bed, which is to
consist of males. The clean straw or tan usually placed
about the plants to keep the fruit from the ground or sand,
should be put round in early spring before the blooming.

A deep, light rich loam is the best soil for the straw-
berry, and where nature has not placed this at the conveni-
ence of the planter, he should have recourse to trenching,

CRANBERRY. 163

The fruit season may be greatly prolonged by having beds
in different exposures; those fronting the south-east will
ripen long before those towards the north-west. There
must be no trees or other objects to shade the beds. For
more minute directions see Pardee, a new work on the
Strawberry, &c., published by C. M. Saxton.

Cranperry.—The culture of the American Cranberry
(Oxycoccus macrocarpus) was introduced by the late Sir
Joseph Banks, and deserves particular notice, for it is al-
together overlooked by Lindley and other horticultural
writers. The plant is distinguished by the smoothness of

its stems, and the largeness of its fruit. It grows freely,
and produces its fruit readily in any damp situation. It
has also recently been cultivated in various parts of the
United States on uplands with great success. The ordi-
nary way of cultivation in low lands is to select a swamp
or bog meadow—clear it off, and then pare off the surface
of bogs or grass so as to clear the soil of the roots—next
cover the surface of the ground with sand to the depth of
two to five inches, and in the sand set out the plants about
a foot to 18 inches apart. If transplanted with the sod
adhering, it is well, if the grass is only pulled out of the
soil. The Cranberry plantation is then to be kept clean
of grass and weeds until the whole surface of the ground is
covered by the Cranberry, which is usually the case in
three years after planting out.

On upiands the ground is not to be enriched (one writer
says, the poorer the ground the better,) but prepared simi-
lar to a Strawberry plantation. It is well to cover the
surface of the ground with sand, and requires three or more
years for the soil to become filled with the plants; during

164 FRUIT GARDEN.

which period care must be taken and much labor expended
to keep the ground clear of weeds and grass.

The usual cost per acre of preparing and keeping an
acre of ground of Cranberries in good condition during the
three years while the bud is maturing, is from $100, $200
to $300 per acre, on low wet lands, but nearly twice as
much on uplands.

When the ground is fully covered with vines, the usual
crop will average about 150 bushels per acre—but some
places have been so well prepared and so favorable for it
that at the rate of 450 bushels per acre have been known
to be gathered from a half acre.

Loudon remarks, “that Sir Joseph Banks, after having
imported the American Cranberry into England, raised in
1831 three and a half bushels on a piece of land eighteen
~ feet square. This is at the rate of about four hundred and
sixty bushels to the acre.”

The price of the Cranberry varies in market, ranging
from two to four dollars per bushel, so that it may be seen
they are a very profitable crop ; and often times low swamp
land fit for but little else can thus be used to good purpose.

They are easily gathered with Cranberry rakes, with
which 20 to 30 bushels per day, or even 40 bushels can be
taken from the vines by a man and boy.

Sometimes the Cranberry is raised from the seed, but
an inferior variety is as likely to result as otherwise. They
will also grow from cuttings. The fall or spring are favor-
able seasons for transplanting, but the former is consider-
ed best. From September until the ground freezes, or
from March till the middle of May will do.

Professor Horsford has recently given the following
valuable analysis of the Cranberry fruit :

ORANBERRY. 165

Per centage of water expelled by 212° F. is 88.78

ee ‘ash 17
Woody fibre tissues, organic acids, and other organic

matter not decomposed at 212° F,, 11.05

100.00

Per centage of potash in the ash, 42.67

6c “ soda 66 66 1.77

Only 17 per cent. of the ash is derived from the soil—
all the rest from atmosphere and water. It will also be
seen from the above, why this fruit flourishes so well near
the sea shore under saline influences.

The best variety is called the Black Cranberry, being
very dark-red, nearly black when ripe, very large, nearly
round, and very hard flesh. The crop is sometimes injured
by late frosts on the blossoms in spring, and they must be
gathered before frosts in the fall, but should be allowed to
remain on and ripen as longas the frosts will permit. To
save expense in cultivation, it is of the first importance to
have the ground entirely covered with the plants as soon
as possible, and then they may be kept in good bearing
order for five or six years, by an occasional thorough
raking over of the bed, and thus thinning the plants. This
is done to a certain extent by the rake in gathering the
fruit. The small Cranberry has creeping small roots and
stems, but the Black Cranberry has thrifty vines three or
four feet long, and sometimes much longer, trailing over
the ground.

The first year after planting, the usual produce is about
50 bushels to the acre, after that increasing to 200 or 300
bushels.

[Mr. F. Trowbridge, New Haven, Ct., has plants in any quantity for sale
at 50 cents per hundred. ]

166 FRUIT GARDEN.

The main reason why upland cultivation is so much
more expensive than low lands, is its tendency to grass
and weed, and the great expense of labor, &c., in weeding
and keeping clean. Muck swamps are of not much yalue
for other purposes, but for the Cranberry they are well
adapted.

Good plants can be had of nurserymen for 50 cents per
hundred, and even for 25 to 30 cents where several thou-
sands are wanted. The States of Massachusetts and Con-
necticut are paying particular attention to the Cranberry
at the present time, where it proves to be one of the most
profitable crops.

If the plants are 18 inches apart, 19,000 plants will
cover an acre; if two feet 10,000, and if two and a half
feet, 7,000.

But where there is a pond, it may be cultivated with
the greater success. On the margin of the pond stakes
are driven in a short way within the water line; boards
are so placed against these as to prevent the soil of the
Cranberry bed from falling into the water. A layer of
small stones is deposited in the bottom, and over these peat
or bog earth, mixed with sand, to the extent of about three
or four inches above, and half a foot below the usual sur-
face of the water. Plants of the American Cranberry
placed on this bed soon cover the whole surface with a
dense matting of trailing shoots. There is a variety which
is very shy in yielding its fruit, and this should, of course,
be avoided. If the prolific variety be employed, from a
bed thirty or forty feet in length, by five or six in breadth,
a quantity of berries may be procured sufficient for the
supply of a family throughout the year. The fruit is easily
preserved in bottles. The native Cranberry (Oxycoccus
palustris) may be treated in the same manner, and in some

THE CABBAGE. 167

places is very successfully cultivated. At Culzean Castle,
the seat of the Marquis of Ailsa, in Ayrshire, I found
(1820) the Cranberry ground surrounded by a ditch, the
water of which was made to filter through among stones
and stakes to the interior, so as to keep the Cranberry
plants constantly supplied with moisture. In the same
garden a second compartment was dedicated to small fruits
of this class, having in the centre a rock-work planted with
whortleberries ( Vaccomiwm vitis-idea), and around the
rock-work beds of American Cranberry, of Scottish Cran-
berry, and of Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), also native.

The following plants produce fruit in English gardens,
some of them abundantly in a wild state, others sparing-
ly; but they can scarcely be said to come within the pro-
vince of Horticulture: Berberis vulgaris, the Barberry ;
Sambucus nigra, the Elder; Prunus spinosa, the Sloe;
P. insttitia, the Bullace; and Rhubus Chamemorus, the
Cloudberry.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this department those plants are cultivated which,
after being subjected to various culinary processes, are
used at the dinner table as articles of food. We shall
class them in groups, enumerating the kinds nearly in the
order of their importance, each, for the sake of precision,
being accompanied by its botanical name.

Cabbage Trobe.

The Brassica oleracea, Lrnn., is a plant indigenous to
the rocky shores of Great Britain, but no one, seeing it

168 KITCHEN GARDEN.

waving its foliage in its native habitat, could possibly anti«
cipate that it would ever appear in our gardens, disguised
as the ponderous drumhead or sugar-loaf cabbage, or on our
tables as the delicate cauliflower and broccoli. The culti-
vated varieties are numerous; but the following are the
most important.

Common White Cassace; the leaves gathering into a
close head. The economical uses of this vegetable are well
known. Its principal subvarieties are the following :

Early Dwarf or Battersea, Large Sugar Loaf,
Early York, Drumhead,
Large York, Pomeranian.

The first two are well adapted for early crops; the others
for use in the autumn and winter. There is a dwarfish
variety of the Tronchuda, sometimes called the Portugal
Cabbage, the leaf-stalk and midribs of the leaves of which
are succulent, crisp, and white, and equal in flavor to sea-
kale.

The Cabbage is propagated from seed, which may be
sown in beds four feet wide, and covered over with a thin
layer of earth. The proper seasons in England for this
operation are the middle of August, the beginning of
March, and midsummer. By observing these times, and
employing different sorts, the succession may be kept up
throughout the year. For the early spring crops, the late-
sown plants are in October transferred from the seed-bed
¢o some open and well manured ground, where they are
arranged in rows two feet asunder. The principal supply
may be put out in February, affording the larger sorts
more width between the rows. The crops sown in spring
are planted out in May and June. For subsequent cul-
ture, all that is necessary is to keep the ground clear of

THE CABBAGE, 169

weeds, and to draw up the soil about the stems. In some
situations watering in summer is beneficial.

In many places on the continent of Hurope, sourcrout is
prepared by shredding dewn the heads in autumn, and
placing in a cask alternate layers of the cabbage with salt,
pepper, and a very little salad oil; and then compressing
the whole.

The cabbages grown late in autumn and in the beginning
ef winter are denominated Colcworts, from the name of a
kindred vegetable no longer cultivated. The object is to
have them with open or slightly closed hearts. T'wo sow-
ings are made, in the middle of June and in July, and the
seedlings, when they acquire sufficient strength, are planted
out in lines, a foot or fifteen inches asunder, and eight or
ten inches apart in the rows.

The Red Cabbage, of which the Dutch or large red is
the most common variety, is much used for pickling. It is
sown aleng with the white varieties in August and in spring,
and the culture is in every respect the same.

The Savoy. This variety, like the preceding, forms into
a close head, but is distinguished by the wrinkling of its
leaves. It is a very useful vegetable during the winter
months, being highly relished by most people. The prin-
cipal subvarieties are the Early Green, the Dwarf, the Yel-
low, and the Winter or large Late Green, of each of which
there are various forms. The seed is sown in autumn and
in the end of spring; and two plantings may take place in
April, and in June or July.

Brussets Sprouts. This vegetable is allied to the fore-
going, but does not close or cabbage. From the axilz of
the stem-leayes proceed little rosettes or sprouts, which
resemble savoy cabbages in miniature, and form a very deli-

cate morsel. The seed should be sown in spring, and the
8

170 KITCHEN GARDEN.

seedlings planied out before midsummer, during showery
weather. In October the plants should have additional
earth drawn to their roots, to firm them, and saye them
from being destroyed by frost. The earliest sprouts become
fit for use in November, and they continue good, or even
improving in quality, till the month of March following.
Mr. Van Mons, of Brussels, mentions (Lond. Hortic. Mem.,
vol. iii.), that by successive sowings the sprouts are there
obtained for the greater part of the year. In spring,
when the plants have a tendency te run to flower, their
growth is checked by lifting them, and replanting them in
a slanting direction, in a cool, shady situation.

Oren Kate or Borecote. The principal subvarieties
are :

German Greens, or Curlies, Jerusalem Kale, or Ragged
green, yellow and red, Jack,

Scotch Kale, green and purple, Woburn Kale,

Delaware Greens. Buda, or Russian Kale.

Of these the two first are considered the most valuable, and
are the sorts chiefly cultivated in England. The seed is
sown at various times from February to May, and the seed-
lings are planted out in moist weather during summer, in
rows two feet asunder. The Buda Kale is sown in May,
planted out in September, and, being hardy, affords a sup-
ply in the following spring. The Woburn kale, being
nearly a perennial, may readily be propagated by cuttings,
six inches long, in any of the spring months.

Of the Turnir-Rootep Caspace, or Khol-ritbe, there
are two kinds, one swelling above ground (Chou-rave), the
other in it (Chou-navet). There is nothing peculiar in the
eulture, unless that, in the case of the first mentioned, the
earth should not be drawn so high as tocover the globular

CAULIFLOWER. 171

part of the stem, which is the part used. The seed may be
sown in the beginning of June, and the seedlings trans-
planted in July; the vegetable is thus fit for use at the
approach of winter. Of the Chou-rave the French have a
cut-leaved variety, which is considered as rather earlier
than the common sort.

CavuuirLower. This is cultivated for the sake of the
flower-buds, which form a large, dense cluster or head, and
afford one of the most delicate products of the kitchen gar-
den. There are three varieties, the Early, the Late, and
the Reddish-stalked ; but these seem to present scarcely
any well-marked distinction; the earliness or lateness de-
pending on the time of sowing. Of late a sort called the
Large Asiatic has come much into use.

The sowing, for the first or spring crop, is made in the
latter half of the month of August; and in the neighbor-
hood of London, the growers adhere as nearly as possible
to the 21st day. A second sowing takes place in Febru-
ary on a slight hotbed, and a third in April or May.

The cauliflower being tender, the young plants require
protection in winter. For this purpose they are sometimes
pricked out in a warm situation at the foot of a wall with
a southern exposure, where, in severe weather, they are also
covered with hoops and mats. Perhaps a better method is
to plant them thickly in the ground, under a common hot-
bed frame, and to secure them from cold by coverings, and
from damp by giving air in mild weather.* For a very

* During the severe and protracted snow-storm of 1838, Mr. Robert Mil-
ler, market-gardener at Gorgie, was completely successful in preserving his
cauliflower plants in the open border, by the simple expedient of heaping
snow over them to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet. Occasional
slight thawings were followed by intense frosts, when the cold was from 20°
even to 10° Fahr. But the only effect was the glazing of the surface of the

172 KITCHEN GARDEN.

early supply, it is useful to be at the pains of potting a few
scores of plants; these are to be kept under glass during
winter, and plunged out in spring, defending them with a
hand-glass, and watering them when needful. Sometimes,
as in market-gardens, patches of three or four plants are
sheltered by hand-glasses throughout the winter in the open
border. It is advantageous to prick out the spring-sown
plants into some sheltered place, before they be finally trans-
planted and committed to the open ground in May. The
later crop, the transplantation of which may take place at
various times, is treated like early cabbages. Cauliflower
succeeds best in a rich soil and warm situation. After
planting, all that is necessary is to hoe the ground and
draw up the soil about the roots.

It is found that this vegetable, being induced to form its
large and crowded clusters of flower-buds in the autumn,
may be kept in perfection over winter. Cauliflowers which
have been planted out in July will be nearly ready for use
in October. Towards the end of that month, the most
compact and best shaped are selected and lifted carefully
with the spade, keeping a ball of earth attached to the roots.
Some of the large outside leaves are removed, in order that
the plants may occupy less room, and at the same time, any
points of leaves thatimmediately overhang the flower are
cut off. Where there are peach-houses or vineries, the
plants may be arranged in the borders of these, pretty
closely together, but without touching. Or they may be
placed in the same manner in hotbed frames. In mild, dry
weather the glass-frames are drawn off, but they are kept
close in rain; and in severe frost they are thickly covered

snow with a thin coat of ice: the plants remained imbedded below at an
invariable temperature of 32°, which they could well enough sustain, and
they ran no risk from the expanding effects of freezing.

BROCCOLI. 173

with mats. In this way cauliflower may be kept in a very
good state for several months.

Broccout has a close affinity to cauliflower, being like it
of Italian origin, and differing chiefly in the greater hardi-
ness of its constitution. The subvarieties are numerous,
and exceedingly diversified. The following are those which
are most in repute at present. The first five produce their
heads in autumn, the others in spring :—

Early Purple Cape, Sulphur-colored,
Grange’s Early, or Gilles- Late White,

pie’s Broccoli, Late Purple,
Early Purple, Knight’s Protecting,
Early White, Edinburg White.

Of the autumna! sorts there should be two sowings, one in
the middle of April, and one in the middle of May. As
the plants acquire strength they are shifted into the open
ground, where they are placed in lines two feet apart. The
cape varieties are of great excellence, being of a delicious
flavor when dressed; but, on account of the plants being
apt to start into flower, their cultivation has in many places
been neglected. With proper management, however, this
tendency may be overruled. The first sowing may be made
on any border of light soil, scattering the seed very spar-
ingly. In about a month the plants may be transferred
directly into a quarter consisting of sandy loam, well en-
riched with rotten dung. The greater part of the second
crop should be planted in pots, likewise directly from the
seed-bed. These plants are to be sunk in the open ground
till the heads be formed; and in the end of November
they are to be placed under a glass frame, where very good
broccoli may be produced during the severest weather of
winter. Mr. Ronalds of Brentford recommends that the

174 KITCHEN GARDEN.

Karly White, which is also a desirable sort, should be sown
on a hotbed, and treated like the secondary crop of cauli-
flower.

The spring varieties are extremely valuable, as they
come into use at a season when the finer vegetables are
scarce. They are sown in the middle of March or the bo-
ginning of April, and afford a supply from March to May
of the following year. The Late White (sometimes called
Dwarf Tartarian) bears a great resemblance to cauliflower,
and often passes for it.

To obtain seed of the Brassica tribe, the most genuine
and characteristic specimens of the different varieties should
be selected in autumn, in such a state of advancement as
that they will flower as early as possible in the following
spring. They should be planted in an open situation, and
kept as far distant from other kinds of the same tribe as
may be. As they are very liable to cross or hybridize, it
is perhaps better, except in the case of some favorite vari-
ety, to procure supplies from a respectable seedsman, from
whom they are almost uniformly to be had genuine, the
extensive seed-growers being at great pains to prevent
intermixture of crops.

Grange’s Early White, and the Early Purple Cape, are
the kinds best adapted to the climate of the Middle States.
The Dwarf Tartarian, White Malta, and Late White, are
fine sorts for situations south of Virginia, where they may
remain out all winter. But to be able to have them during
winter in the Middle and Northern States, it is necessary, —
before the occurrence of a severe frost, to remove them
from the garden, by careful lifting, and replant them under
a shed or in a cellar.

THE PEAS. 175

Legununous Plants.

Of the Pra (Piswm sativum) there are two principal
varieties cultivated in England, the Field or Gray Hog
Pea, and the Garden Pea. The latter alone requires our
attention here. Its chief subvarieties are—

Early Frame, Rickardson’s Eclipse,
Early Charlton, Tall Marrowfat,

Karly White Warwick, Knight’s Tall Marrowfet,
Karly Emperor Knight’s Dwarf Marre wfat,
Champion of England, Greer or Blue Prussian,
Hair’s Mammoth Dwarf Marrow, White Prussian,

Bishop’s Karly Dwarf, Sugar, Dwarf and Tall.

The first three are suitable for early crops, and the others
for successional supplies. The Early Emperor, Champion
of England, and Hair’s Mammoth Dwarf Marrow, have of
late risen into repute, as being very prolific. In the Sugar
Pea, of which there are two sorts, the tall and dwarf, the
inner tough, filmy lining of the pod is absent: the young
legumes of these may therefore be used like kidney-beans,
and form an agreeable dish. Richardson’s Eclipse is
early, very prolific, and remarkable for the great length of
the pods.

The first crop of peas is sown in England about the be-
ginning ef November, in front of a south wall; and these,
after they have appeared above ground, are defended by
spruce-fir branches, or other spray, throughout the winter.
In January and February other sowings are made, and
sometimes the seed is put up into flower-pots and boxes,
and the young plants afterwards plunged out in spring,
either singly or two or three together, taking care to keep
a portion of earth adhering. From the end of February
moderate sowing should be made twice a month till the

L176 KITONEN GARDEN,

middle of August, thus ensuring a supply of suecessive
crops of delicate green peas. Mor the latest crops, the
Knight’s Marrowfat, Hair’s Dwarf and the Blue Prussian
are among the best. Peas are sown in rows from three to
five feet asunder, according to the height which the different
sorts are known usually to attain. As they grow up, the
earth is drawn to the roots, and the stems are supported
with stakes, a practice which, in a well-kept garden, is
always advisable, although it is said that the early varieties,
when recumbent, arrive sooner at maturity. When germi-
nating, or when just rising through the ground, peas are
greedily devoured by sparrows and other small birds.
Threads of white worsted spread along the lines of the
young peas frighten the depredators fully better than searo-
crows or strings of feathers; but perhaps the simplest and
most effectual remedy is to throw over the peas a slight
covering of soil, for by the time the young plants have pene-
trated this they are beyond the attack of the birds.

‘The early crops come into use in May and June, and,
by repeated sowings, the supplies are prolonged to the be-
ginning of November. Peas grown late in autumn are
subject to mildew, to obviate which, Mr, Knight has pro-
posed the following method: The ground is dug over im
the usual way, and the spaces to be oceupied by the future
rows of peas are well soaked with water, ‘he mould on
ach side is then collected so as to form ridges seven or
eight inches high, and these ridges are well watered. On
these the seed is sown in single rows in the beginning of
June. If dry weather at any time set in, water is supplied
profusely once a week. In this way, the sap which it pre-
pared in the summer is expended in the autumn; the
plants continue green and vigorous, resisting mildew, and
not yielding till subdued by frost,

THE BEAN. 177

In the Middle States, when sown successively from the
last of February to the 10th of May, crops of young
green peas may be had constantly from May to the end
of July. About the middle of August, peas may be
planted again, previous to which it is best to soak them in
water for twenty-four hours. Water the rows before plant-
ing if the ground be dry, and watering the peas whilst
growing will tend to keep off the mildew, so apt to attack
them in dry weather towards the close of summer.

The Garden Bean.—Among the kinds known in the
United States as Bunch-Beans, or, from their valuable
characteristics of crispness, Snap Shorts, are the following :
Early Mohawk, Early Sia-Weeks, Early Valentine,
Yellow Six-Weeks, Late Valentine, or Refugee, Black
Valentine, Royal White Kidney, and China Red-eye.
The Early Valentine variety is extensively cultivated for
the Philadelphia market. The pods are round, and con-
tinue on the vines fit for culinary purposes a long time.
Bush-beans of the kind just named may be planted in the
Middle States from the first of April till the last of Au-
gust. ‘he first planting is very apt to be nipped by the
frost.

Climbing beans, commonly called Pole Beans, are exten-
sively cultivated in the United States, especially that
called the Lima, of which there are two varieties, the
white and the green, the latter being the largest, but the
white producing the most certain crops. When eaten, both
kinds are taken from the pods like peas.

In the vicinity of Philadelphia, where they are raised
very abundantly, Lima beans are planted in the last week
in April, in hills three and a half by four feet apart, pre-
cisely like corn. The hills should consist of good rich
soil, raised only a few enw the general level, with

178 KITCHEN GARDEN.

five or six beans in each, covered about two inches deep.
If all the seeds grow, the plants may be thinned to three.
If they fail, replanting will of course be required. Although
they will, in rich ground and in a good season, grow to the
length of twenty feet, the poles usually employed for their
support are not over ten or twelve feet in height, it being
necessary that two feet shall be under ground.

The Carolina Sewee or Saba Bean, though not so large,
has all the habits of the Lima, but is more hardy and a
more abundant producer, although inferior in richness and
buttery character.

A variety of Pole Beans, called the Dutch Case-Knife,
is used either with or without the pod or hull, and is also
well adapted for winter use. It has a fine flavor, produces
well, and comes earlier for the table than either the Lima
or Carolina varieties.

The kind called Scarlet Runners, from their red blos-
soms, require to be planted rather earlier than the Lima,
and need the same kind of support.

What are known in England as the Windsor and Early
Long Pod Beans, are not so well adapted to the American
climate as the varieties just referred to. They may be
planted in cool situations, in drills a foot and a half asun-
der, and two inches apart in the row.

Esculent Roots.

Tue Potato (Solanum tuberosum).—This well-known
plant is a native of the elevated regions of equatorial
America. It was introduced into Europe about the mid-
dle of the sixteenth century, but remained little known or
regarded till within the last hundred years: and is now so
generally cultivated as to have effected almost an economi-
cal revolution in this country. Most of the original British

THE POTATO. 179

sorts have been derived from Ireland. Its multitudinous
varieties almost set enumeration at defiance, and new ones
are appearing and disappearing every year. By much the
most correct list of the varieties now in cultivation is to be
found in Mr. Charles Lawson’s useful book, entitled The
Agriculturists’s Manual. They are arranged in various
classes, out of which we shall select a very few names of
the more esteemed sorts. The first class consists of the
earliest garden varieties of dwarfish growth, and therefore
well adapted for foreing, such as Fox’s Karly Delight, and
the Early Kidney. The next class contains those very
early kinds, of taller growth, which yield the first garden
crop; including the Hopetoun Karly, Harold’s Karly, In-
vermay Early, the new Elm-leaved Kidney, and Ash-leaved
Early, and Early Seedling. Of these, the Hopetoun is
perhaps the best: the tubers are round, dry, early, and of
tolerable size; but in all the kinds, the mealiness and
earliness necessarily depend a good deal on soil, situation,
and the quality of the season. The third class embraces
those which generally form the principal garden crop, and
includes the Prince of Wales Early, tall American Karly,
Shaw’s Early, Taylor’s Forty-fold, and Matchless Kidney.
For cultivation in the home-farm, the Edinburgh Dons,
and the Perthshire Reds (of which last there are two or
three subvarieties), have not yet been surpassed. The cul-
ture of the late sorts properly belongs to the farm, and
when the gardener has to take them under his care, he will
find it best to adopt such as are common in the agriculture
of the district. What is called the Everlasting Potato is
a late sort, the tubers of which have the property of re-
taining, during winter, the delicate waxy flavor of young
potatoes. They are left in the ground, but covered with
litter to prevent the access of frost. It may here be re-

180 KITCHEN GARDEN.

marked, that if the tubers of any good late variety, such as
the Edinburgh Don or the Stalfold Hall, be buried in the
earth so deep as to prevent vegetation, and kept there till
the beginning of autumn, or if their growth be in any way
retarded, and if they be planted at that season of the year,
young potatoes may thus be procured, during the winter
season, by merely preventing the access of frost with a
covering of litter.

Potatoes are commonly propagated by dividing the tubers,
leaving to each cut, one or two eyes or buds. The sets are
then planted by the aid of the dibble or spade, in rows ata
distance varying from fifteen inches to two feet. It was
suggested by the late Mr. Knight, and his views have been
amply confirmed by experiment, that by planting whole
tubers, and at great distances, a larger produce might be
obtained. Mr. Knight proposed to leave four feet between
the rows, a distance which, except with the larger varieties,
was found to be unnecessarily great. An experienced hor-
ticulturist in Scotland states, that by planting whole tubers,
and by leaving in the case of dwarfs two feet, and in the
tall varieties two feet and a half, between the rows, a return
from one-third to one-half more was obtained than could be
had from the old method. Of course more tubers are re-
quired for planting, but these bear no proportion to the
great increase which results; and besides, early potatoes at
the planting season being unfit for table use, there is little
economy in sparing them.

The earliest crop should, if possible, be placed in a light
soil, and in a warm situation, and should be planted about
the middle of March. Sometimes the eyes of the tubers
are made to spring or vegetate on a hotbed, and the plants
are put out as soonas the leaves can bear the open air.
Perhaps it is better, as recommended by Mr. Saul, of Lan-

THE POTATO. 181

caster, to promote incipient vegetation in some warm place,
as a house or green-house, by laying a woolen cloth or some
other covering over them. When the sprouts are about
two inches long, he plants them out towards the end of
March, and thus procures young potatoes in seven or eight
weeks. In some places, the plants are forced to some ex-
tent, by being protected in frames covered with oiled paper.
A secondary planting of tubers should be made before the
middle of April. When the stems are a few inches above
ground, the earth should be drawn to them; an operation,
however, which, while it impzvoves the crop, delays its ma-
turity for two or three weeks. Mr. Knight recommends re-
moving the flowers as they appear, and states that by this
means the produce is increased by a ton peracre. The fine
early varieties, however, scarcely. produce any flowers.

An important fact in the cultivation of the potato was
observed about the year 1806, by the late Mr. Thomas
Dickson, of Edinburgh, viz., that the most healthy and
productive plants were to be obtained by employing as
seed-stock unripe tubers, or even by planting only the wet
or least-ripened ends of long-shaped potatoes; and he pro-
posed this as a preventive of the well-known disease called
the Curl. - This view was confirmed by the late Mr. Knight.
An intelligent writer in the Gardener's Magazine sug-
gests a method by which sprouting of the eyes is accelerat-
ed. He takes up the seed potatoes a considerable time be-
fore they are ripe, and exposes them for some weeks to the
influence of a scorching sun. The resulting crop is at
least a fortnight earlier; but itis not said how this prac-
tice affects the curl.*

* It is not thought necessary here to enter on the subject of the very gene-
ral potato disease of 1845 and 1846. Notwithstanding numerous inquiries

and publications, nothing satisfactory, either as to cause or cure, has
been established, and, fortunately, the evil is gradually disappearing.

182 KITCHEN GARDEN.

The forcing of early potatoes on hotbeds has long been
practiced ; but it is attended with considerable trouble and
expense. Small supplies of young waxy tubers are now
often produced during winter, in boxes placed in a mush-
room-house, or in a common cellar, if free from frost. In
October, old potatoes are placed in layers, alternately with
a mixture of tree-leavesand light mould. Vegetation soon
proceeds; and there being no opportunity for the unfold-
ing of stems and leaves, the energies of the plants are ex-
panded in the production of young tubers. Before mid-
winter these often attain the size and appearance of early
potatoes; but they are much inferior in quality, being wa-
tery and of little flavor.

Of the varieties known in the United States, the Mer-
cer, an American Seedling, is almost exclusively the mar-
ket potato of Philadelphia, where, however, some few per-
sons fairly appreciate the superior value for eating of the |
Foxite. The Mercer, Carter, and Pink-eye varieties are
most prized in New York, whilst the two varieties known
by the names of Blue Jackets and Winnebagoes, are most
esteemed at the Hastward. Few if any of the varieties
found to succeed best in England do well in the United
States, where native seedlings, including such as we have
named, turn out by far the best crops, both as to quantity
and quality. The potato yields best in the Northern and
Eastern States, especially Maine, where it enters largely
into the farmer’s crops.

Where the soil is heavy, a compost is recommended to
lighten and arouse it up, and render it productive, consist-
ing of well-decayed leaves, fresh stable manure, and ashes,
well mixed. Unless the land be new virgin soil, it is in
vain to expect a heavy crop of potatoes without a previous
heavy manuring. Fresh stable manure is preferred to that

THE POTATO. 183

which has been allowed to rot. The potato in its growth
takes up a great deal of potash, and hence the great utility
of ashes as a fertilizer peculiarly adapted to this crop.
The green sand marl of New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland,
and Virginia, is well known to increase the product of the
potato, and this it is supposed to do by virtue of the pot-
ash it contains. A cool climate and rather moist soil be-
ing most favorable to this root, it has been found highly
advantageous to keep the manure on the top of the pota-
toes, as this affords protection against the heating and dry-
ing effects of the sun. Where the potatoes have been
planted, and the ground entirely covered soon afterwards
with a thin layer of straw or coarse hay, fine crops have
been produced, although no subsequent cultivation was re-
sorted to.

Potatoes are planted sometimes whole, but most fre-
quently cut into several pieces. Some persons contend
that the largest sized potatoes should alone be taken for
planting, others think the medium sized preferable, whilst
others again believe the very smallest will answer every
purpose. Those who use the smallest sizes should be care-
ful to plant them entire, or cut but very little. A large-
sized potato may be so divided as to make eight sets, whilst
one of medium size should not be divided into more than
four or six sets. The sets should be laid in the rows with
the eyes upwards, and about ten inches apart, the rows be-
ing from eighteen to twenty inches asunder in gardens, but
wider in lots and fields, where they are worked by the cul-
tivator and plough. The sets for planting should be cut
at least a week before they are to go in the ground, and it
is a good plan to roll them in ground plaster of Paris or
old slaked lime.

The culture of the potato should not be repeated upon

184 KITCHEN GARDEN.

the same ground until after a lapse of many years. It is
also very advantageous to change them from one kind of
soil to another. The first crop should be put in as early
in March as the frost will permit, and the manure laid be-
neath the seed. The late crop may be planted about the
middle of April or beginning of May, although fine yields
are often obtained from planting a month later. But there
is risk in planting late from the droughts of summer, and
from their liability of taking on a second growth in autumn,
_ should the season be wet. In some part of Britain, and
especially in Ireland, they sometimes transplant from one
field to another the stems of growing potatoes, after these
have grown six or eight inches long, in the same way that
cabbage plants are set out, and the crops are said to be
equally good with those where the potato sets were used.
But this evidently requires for its success a climate much
more moist than can be found in the United States, unless
it be in Oregon.

Sweet Porato (Convolvulus Batatus)—The Sweet
Potato grows to great perfection in the Southern States,
and also in that portion of New Jersey and Delaware where
the soil is light, sandy, and warm.* ‘The first step in their
culture is to provide the sprouts which are to be planted
out in hills. For this purpose, the whole potatoes are
placed five or six inches apart in hotbeds early in April,
and covered three or four inches deep. When they throw
up sprouts, which may be expected in three or four weeks
after planting, these, when about three or four inches above
the level of the bed, may be separated from the parent root
and planted out in hills, leaving other shoots to follow for

* By sprouting them in a hotbed we have often raised them in great per-
fection in the northern counties of Western New York.

THE TURNIP. 185

successive plantings. The setting-out must be in beds
about four feet apart, each bed or hill being raised nearly
a foot above the common level of the ground. Some make
continuous banks four feet apart, and plant the sprouts on
the top about a foot asunder. After planting, they have
to be kept clean of weeds until the vines cover the ground
and prevent further working. A shovelful of some good
rotten manure, street dirt, or light compost, should be put
into each hill previous to putting out the sets.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE (Helianthus tuberosus) or tuber-
ous-rooted sunflower.—This plant, which is a native of
Brazil, derives its epithet Jerusalem from a corruption of
the Italian Girasole, sunflower, and Artichoke, from the
resemblance, in flavor, which its tubers bear to the floral
receptacles or bottoms of the artichoke. It is propagated
by means of its tubers in the manner of potatoes. In
March they are planted out in rows three or four feet asunder,
and in autumn the new tubers are fit for use. For the
sake of convenience, it is advantageous to store them,
though the roots are hardy enough to bear the winter
frosts. Some, indeed, allow them to remain in the ground,
and dig them up when required. In this way a sufficient
number of sets are generally left in the ground, and the
stalks are thinned into rows in summer; but this is a
slovenly mode of treatment, and seldom produces well-
flavored crops.

The Turnip (Brassica Rapa), like the potato, has, to.a
great extent, migrated into the fields, and become the care
of the husbandman more than of the gardener. The fol-
lowing are the most esteemed garden sorts in England ;

186 KITCHEN GARDEN.

Early White Dutch, Yellow Maltese,
Early Stone, Dutch Yellow,
Green-topped White, Aberdeen Yellow,
Long White, Teltow.

Besides these, the Navet of the French (Brassica Na-
pus v. esculenta) is occasionally cultivated, and more fre-
quently the Swedish Turnip or Rutabaga (Brassica cam-
pestris v. Napo-brassica, Li.) which is a most excellent win-
ter sort, though it belongs more properly to the farm. For
early crops, the white Dutch is the principal variety; the
other white sorts, and the beautiful yellow Maltese, are
useful in summer and the beginning of autumn. The yel-
low Dutch being capable of enduring a considerable degree
of frost, affords the most appropriate winter supply. The
teltow or French turnip is remarkable for being high-flayor-
ed, and is used only for seasoning to soups or stews.

Turnips succeed best in a rich, well-worked soil, of a
light or medium quality. The first sowing is made about
the end of March, in a warm situation; and it is usual to
put in additional sowings, once a fortnight or three weeks,
till the end of August. The early crops are sown b7oad-
east, and the later in drills about a foot asunder. After
the plants have shown a rough leaf or two, they are thinned
out, being left at the distance of eight or ten inches in the
drill; and the ground is hoed and kept free from weeds.
As turnips which have stood the winter throw up their
seed-stalks early in spring, after which their roots become
stringy, and are much deteriorated, it is useful to store
the turnips in the winter, keeping them in a close place,
and covering them with straw.

A small sowing may take place so late as the middle of
September; and if the winter prove mild or open (as often
happened previous to 1837-8), young turnips of excellent

THE TURNIP. 187

flavor may thus be procured in the months of January and
February. The best sort for this late sowing is the Dutch
yellow, which (as already hinted) resists the cold and
inclement weather better than the white. For this winter
crop a liberal application of stimulating manure, such as
rape-cake and pigeon dung, was recommended by the late
excellent Mr. Stuart of Pinkie garden; he sowed in drills
a foot asunder, and thinned out the plants to six inches
apart in the drills: a sheltered border was preferred, but
no other artificial protection was given; and his success
was complete.

The young plants, while in the seed leaf, are often de-
stroyed by a small beetle called the turnip-fly (Hadtica ne-
morum). Many remedies have been proposed : it has been
found beneficial to dust the rows with quick-lime; but per-
haps the best precaution is to sow thick, and thus ensure a
sufficient supply both for the insect and the crop. The
insect soon ceases to feed and disappears.

In the United States the Turnip, though a highly valu-
able product of the soil, is by no means so important a crop
as it isin England. ‘The varieties which have been found
best adapted to the soil and climate of the Middle States,
are the Early White Dutch or White Strap-leaved, of
which there are the round and flat kinds; the Early Red-
top Dutch, or Strap-leaved Red-top, resembling the pre-
ceding in form, but having the portion of the root which
grows above ground of a red or purple color; the Early
Yellow Dutch. For spring use, the Swedish Turnip, or
Ruta Baga, should be sown from the middle to the end
of July.

It is computed that an ounce of seed will suffice for a
bed four feet wide by forty long. For an early crop, sow
as soon as the frost is out of the ground, in drills or broad-

188 KITCHEN GARDEN.

cast, as most convenient. Tor the fall and winter supply,
sow in August. In dry seasons, the young turnips are
very apt to be eaten off by the turnip fly, so that, to obvi-
ate this and other causes of failures, resowings are often
called for. When the plants are too thick, they should be
thinned to about three inches apart. Good seed will ger-
minate, under favorable circumstances, in from thirty-six
to forty-eight hours.

The Carrot (Daucus Carota) is one of the native Um-
belliferze of England, but has been much transformed by
cultivation ; the root swelling and becoming succulent and
of agreeable flavor. The best varieties are the Early
Horne or Dutch, and the Orange-red Carrot; the former
for early, the latter for general cultivation. The Altring-
ham or Large Orange Carrot is in great repute; it is dis-
tinguished by a considerable portion of the root remaining
above ground. The carrot likes a light, deep, fresh soil, in
which it may be at liberty to push down its long spindle-
shaped roots. A few Early Horne carrots may be sown
in February on a moderate hotbed. In the beginning of
March, the same sort may be sown in the openair. In
April, the orange variety may follow as a general crop: it
succeeds best in drills. The Long White Carrot is of deli-
cate flavor, is easily cultivated, but does not keep well. In
many old gardens, the early plants are liable to the attacks
of a small grub, the larva of some insect; it is therefore a
useful precaution to sow a moderate crop of the Harly
Horne variety in July. After sowing, it is only necessary
to thin the plants and keep them clear of weeds. The
roots are stored in winter in the manner of turnips.

Carrot seed, being so extremely light, should be sown
when the weather is perfectly calm, disposed in drills or

PARSNIPS. 189

rows, and covered very lightly, say not more than half an
inch deep. To separate the seeds, which are’apt to stick
together, let them be rubbed between the hands in dry sand
or earth. When the plants are up, they may be thinned
with a narrow hoe, or otherwise, so as to be left from three
to four inches apart, and if intended to remain long in the
ground, they may be left six inches apart. The usual time
for sowing the main crop in the United States is from the
first of May to the first of June.

The Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) is now less cultivated in
England than it was in Catholic times, when it was a favor-
ite accompaniment to dried fish in Lent. To some its fla-
vor is not agreeable; but is a very nutritious vegetable,
and of easy digestion. like the carrot, its root is long
and tapering, differing chiefly in being of a whitish color.
Its culture is also very much the same. There is a variety
with short roundish roots, called the Turnip-rooted Pars-
nip, very well suited for garden culture.

The parsnip is a sweet and wholesome vegetable, more
generally relished and eaten at American tables than the
carrot. They are also sometimes made into a marmalade,
and are even said to be capable of yielding a good wine.
They constitute an admirable food for horses, mixed of
course with dry food, and when given to cows add greatly
to the quantity and good quality of the milky products, to
which they impart no unpleasant flavor, such as is found to
follow the use of the turnip, cabbage, &c. The varieties
best known in the Middle States are the Guernesey, and
the Sugar or Hollow Crown, the first being best adapted
for large crops in fields, and the latter for gardens. They
may be sown in the spring from March to May, in drills,
and covered about an inch deep. Thin to eight inches.

{90 KITCHEN GARDEN.

Left in the ground, they will stand almost any degree of
freezing cold in winter.

Rev Beer (Beta vulgaris) a biennial plant, native of
the shores of the south of Europe. The poiléd root is
eaten cold, in thin slices, either by itself or as a salad: it
is also often used as a pickle. The varieties are numerous,
but the most common are the Long-rooted, the Short or
Turnip-rooted, the Bassano, and the Gigantic dark beet.
There is a fine French variety called Castlenaudary, from
a town in Languedoc; but as yet it is little known in this
country,

The red beet prospers in a rich, deep soil, not recently
manured, and which has been well pulverized by the spade.
During April the seeds may be sown in drills, fifteen inches
asunder, and the plants are afterwards to be thinned to eight
inches from each other in the lines. In the northern parts
of the island, the roots are stored in winter, care being
taken not to break them or cut off the leaves too closely, as
they bleed when injured.

In the United States the beet is a favorite vegetable,
largely cultivated in gardens for the table, and in lots and
fields for stock. The Sugar Beet and Ruta Baga are, how-
ever, generally chosen for the latter purpose.

The T'urnip-rooted variety is considered the earliest,
whilst the Long Red is planted for the principal crop from
the middle of May to the 20th of June.

The White Beet (Beta cicla) is chiefly cultivated for its
stalks or leaves, the mid-rib of which, divested of the sides
or leafy part, is added to soups, or, when peeled and boiled,
dressed and eaten like asparagus, The Swess Chard is
one variety of the white beet, used in the same way. The
Silver or Sea-Kale Beet much resembles the White Beet,

SKIRRET—SCORZONERA. 191

but has much larger leaves and stems, and when cooked
bears more resemblance to Sea-Kale.

The beet is sown as soon as the frost is out of the ground.
For this, as for all root crops, the soil should be broken
deep, and rendered very fine. Drop the seeds in the drills
about three inches apart, cover an inch deep and tread, or
roll the earth down firmly. When up and finely growing,
thin out to six inches apart.

Skirrer (Svwm Sisarwm) is a native of China, now sel-
dom seen in English gardens. Its tubers are used like
parsnips. It isa perennial, and may be propagated by
separating the roots in spring; but it succeeds better by
annual sowings, which may be made in April.

This root is a white, sweet, and pleasant vegetable, cooked
and eaten much like Salsify. The seed may be sown in
beds from the middle of April to the first of May. They
should be placed in drills, and when well started in growth,
thinned so as to remain five or six inches apart. The roots
will be fit for the table about the middle of November, and,
like those of the carrot, &c., so continue till spring. But
they do not resist frost like the parsnip, and require to be
taken up and stored away in a shed or cellar, covered with
dry sand or earth.

Scorzonera (Scorzonera Hispanica) and Sausiry (T'ra-
gopogon porrifolius) are generally associated together in
gardens, and are now less cultivated in England than they
deserve, The roots are used in soups, and sometimes as
dressed side-dishes. They are sown in lines, and treated
like the crops of red beet or parsnip.

Salsify, known by the common appellation of Oyster
Plant, is a native of Britain, where it is found growing

192 KITCHEN GARDEN.

wild in the fields. Its white roots, somewhat resembling
small parsnips, are much esteemed by many, who trace in
their flavor some resemblance to that of the oyster. The
green stems or shoots, which rise from the roots of year old
plants in the spring, are boiled and eaten like asparagus.
In the Middle States, the seed may be sown pretty thickly,
any time in April or May, in drills a foot apart, covering
them an inch deep. Thin the growing plants first to three
inches, and finally so as to stand only six inches apart.
The culture resembles that for parsnips and carrots. In
autumn, before hard frosts set in, some of the roots might
be taken up for use, and secured in moist sand under shel-
ter. Or, like parsnips, they may be left in the ground and
dug up as wanted, remaining good all winter.

The Rapisu (Raphanus sativus) is a native of China.
There are two principal varieties, the spindle-rooted and the
turnip-rooted radish ; and of these the subvarieties are nu-
merous. The following may be mentioned

Spindle-shaped. Round-shaped.
Short-topped Scarlet. White Turnip.
Scarlet Salmon. Yellow Turnip.
Long White. White Spanish.
White Russian. Black Spanish.

The first two and the white turnip radish are best suited
for early crops, the scarlet salmon for summer, the yellow
turnip for autumn, and the white and black Spanish for
winter. There are, besides, oval or oblong Summer Rad-
ishes, both white and red, lately brought into notice.

Some cultivators in England sow their earliest crop in
November, in a warm situation, at the foot of a wall or in
front of a pinery, and continue sowing once a month, if
weather permit, during winter. Others grow their first

OXALIS ROOT. : 193

radishes under frames, aiding vegetation by a slight bottom-
heat. As the season advances, successional supplies are
sown once a fortnight. From the middle of July to the
middle of September the turnip-radishes are sown from
time to time; and on the approach of frost they may be
stored up in sand, and kept throughout winter.

Oxauis Roots (Ozalis crenata, Jacg; O. arracacha,
G. Don) have of late years been cultivated for the table
in England. The plant produces tubers at the root, some-
what in the manner of the potato; but they are of smaller
size, seldom exceeding that of a walnut. By cultivation,
however, by manuring, laying down, earthing up, watering,
and other helps known to horticulturists, considerable in-
crease of size in the tubers may be effected. From the
mode of culture adopted by the most intelligent gardeners,
we conclude that a rich light soil is the most proper; that
it is useful to forward the plants in a hot bed, in the way
practiced with early peas, so as to have them ready to
transplant by the middle or end of May; that in planting
out they should be inserted in a sloping position, so that a
considerable portion of the stem may be covered by the
soil; that earthing up, or drawing up additional soil to the
stems in June and July is important; and that laying
down the stems horizontally in August, and covering them
slightly (to the depth perhaps of two inches) with mould,
tends greatly to promote their productiveness. It should
be observed that the tubers continue to swell in size till
November, or till stopped by frost. It is believed that the
largest tubers, having full eyes or buds, yield the strongest
plants; and, therefore, a portion of the largest should be
reserved for seed-stock. Cut sets of these large tubers are,
by some cultivators, preferred to whole tubers. The rest,

194 KITCHEN GARDEN.

from thé size of a filbert toa walnut, go to the cook. The
mode of dressing for table is simple. The tubers, after
being cleaned, are boiled for about ten minutes, or till they
be slightly softened; and they are then served up with
white sauce. Some persons merely put them into boiling
water for a few minutes; then, pouring off the water,
transfer them toa covered saucepan; and place the pan
upon hot cinders, drawing some of these to the hd; in this
way the tubers are rendered more dry or mealy. They
have a pleasant flavor; somewhat resembling a new potato,
with the additional zest of a nut or kernel; but also with
a certain degree of acidity. The oxalis comes from the
same country that afforded us the invaluable potato, and
has been extolled as hkely to rival it; but this it will
never do: a dish of oxalis may form an agreeable variety
and adjunct, but no more; bearing to the potato such rela-
tion as sea-kale does to asparagus. {t may be added, how-
ever, that the oxalis crenata is, in other respects, a useful
vegetable. The leaves may be used ag salad, and they con-
stitute, indeed, the principal salad at Lima. The shoots
and young branches are found to make an agreeable puree,*
having the wood-sorrel flavor; and the larger stems have
been used in tarts, in the manner of rhubarb stalks, and
been found more tender. The Oxalis Deppei tubers are
hardy, prolific, and excellent when properly cooked; being
free of the acidity of that of O. crenata.

The tuberous roots of a lately introduced species of Iv-
piaN Cress, Tropeolum tuberosum, were for some time in
vogue, being praised as having, when boiled, a “ very deli-
cate flavor, resembling the riehest asparagus.” The plant
isreadily multiplied by cuttings during the summer months;
and the young plants thus produced furnish a crop of tu-

* A French soup.

THE ONION. 195

bers late in the autumn of thesame year. But these have
not maintained their character; most people regarding
their sharp anise flavor as far from delicate. They are
better adapted for being used as a pickle.

Nasturtium, or Indian Cress, (Tropeolum Mayzus).
The common yellow-flowered nasturtium, whilst it orna-
ments the flower garden with its rich yellow or crimson
blossoms, is a valuable product of the kitchen garden. It
is considered a native of Peru or Chili. The curled leaf-
stems and green seed pods are eaten as salads, or made into
pickles, rivaling capers. The seed may be sown about the
first of April, in rows or patches, and covered an inch deep.
As the plants will run from five feet to three times that
length, they must be provided with proper supports, and
will form excellent trellises, or blinds. The yellow stands
the heat better than the crimson.

Allracious Plants.

The Onion (Aliwm Cepa) is too well known to require
description, and has been cultivated in England from time
immemorial. Among the varieties may be enumerated :

Strasburg, White Portugal or Reading,
French Yellow, Nocera Onion.

James’s Keeying, Blood Red,

Globe, Tripoli or Giant
Silver-skinned, large and small, Potato, tree, and Pearl Onion,

Besides these, the Welsh Onion or Ciboule (Alzium /fis-
tulosum, l.), a native of Siberia, is sometimes grown for
scallions. For a general crop, the Strasburg, French Yel-
low, and James’s Keeping varieties may be esteemed the
best, as they are hardy and keep long. The White Por-
tugal grows to a large size, is mild in flavor, but does
not keep well. The small Silver-skinned is chiefly used for

196 KITCHEN GARDEN.

pickling. The Nocera, introduced by Mr. Lawson, in
1843, is not only of good quality, but possesses the advan-
tage of not being so apt to send up flower-stalks as the
other kinds. ;

The onion affects a light, rich, well-worked soil, which
has not been recently manured. The principal crop may
be sown in the course of the month of March, according to
the state of the weather and the dryness of the ground.
Onions are cultivated in beds, four or five feet in width,
and are regularly thinned, hoed, and kept free from weeds.
About the beginning of September the crop is ripe or ready
for lifting, which is known by the withering of the leaves ;
the roots are taken up, and, after being well dried in the
open air, are stored in a garret or loft, where they may be
perfectly secured from damp.

Towards the end of August a secondary crop is sown, to
afford a supply of young onions, or scallions, as they are
called, in the spring months. The Strasburg and White
Portugal may be used for this purpose. Those which are
not required for the kitchen may be allowed to stand, and
if the flower-bud be picked out on its first appearance, and
the earth be stirred about them, they will frequently pro-
duce bulbs equal in size and quality to the large ones that
are imported from the Continent.

Some eminent horticulturists have strongly recommend-
ed the transplanting of onions. Mr. Knight recommends
sowing the White Portugal onion in May under the shade
of a tree, where the plants remain of a diminutive size,
during the autumn and winter, and are planted out in the
succeeding spring. Other cultivators collect all the minute
bulbs of the ordinary crop, and use them in the same way.
Mr. Macdonald, Dalkeith Park, was in the practice of con-
fining his operations to one summer. He sowed in Feb-

THE ONION. 197

ruary on a slight hotbed, or sometimes merely under a
glass-frame. In the first or second week of April, accord-
ing to the state of the weather, he transplanted the young
seedlings in rows, eight inches asunder, and at the distance
of four or fiveinches in the row. Previous to planting, the
roots of the seedlings were dipped in a puddle of one part
of soot to three parts of earth, an expedient which was
found useful in guarding the transplanted onions from the
attack of the wire-worm. He found that onions thus
treated attained a large size.

The Porato-Onion is propagated by the lateral bulbs,
which it throws out, under ground, in considerable numbers.
It may be planted about midwinter, and will ripen early in
the summer. Its flavor is not unpleasant; but the plant,
being rather troublesome in cultivation, is not likely to
supersede the common onion.

The Tree-Onton, introduced from Canada, is a vivipa-
rous variety, producing small bulbs in place of flowers;
but the bulbs are strong-scented.

The Prearx-Onton, of recent introduction into England,
and hitherto little known (Adium Hallerit,G. Don ?) pro-
duces clustery or small bulbs at the root. These little
bulbs are of a fine white color, like the silver-skinned, and
very fit for pickling.

The onion requires a very rich soil, and forms an excep-
tion to most plants in regard to the necessity of changing
the ground. Where the same patch has been kept well
manured, heavy annual crops have been taken off for thirty
or forty years successively:

In the Middle States, where a field crop is the object,
the ground, after being heavily manured, is dug or plough-
ed early in spring, well raked or harrowed, and divided
into very shallow drills about nine inches apart, with

198 KITCHEN GARDEN.

alleys between every three rows about fifteen inches in
width. Young onions about the size of beans are to be
planted in these rows or drills, but not covered with earth,
These are to be thinned so as to stand about three inches
apart, aad kept clean and hoed every few days. In June,
the vacant alleys may be dug and planted in cabbage, as
this will not interfere with the onion crop, which ripens
and comes off in July.* After being pulled they are laid
out to dry, and then placed under shelter.

The young onions intended for planting the succeeding
year are raised from seed sown in shallow drills early in
April. About the middle of July, when they have attain-
ed the size of beans, these are taken out of the ground, and
put away in some dry place where there is a free circulation
of air, and thus kept till the following spring to be planted
out as described.

With regard to the onion in the American climate, it is
a singular fact that they will not ripen (in the Middle
States at least,) unless the seed be sown very early in the
spring. They may, however, be preserved in their places
through the winter by a light covering of old or short ma-
nure, straw or other litter, placed over them in the fall.

Although they may not become fully matured, onions
can, however, be raised from the seed in one season suffi-
ciently large for culinary purposes, and, where the soil and
other circumstances are peculiarly congenial, quite as large
as those which have occupied two seasons in their develop-
ment.

With regard to the Potato or Underground Onion it
may be necessary to state that they should be planted in

* When the onion bulbs are well expanded, they are injured if the ground
be stirred around them with the hoe. Therefore, if the weeds require re-
moval, this must be done by hand.

SHALLOT. 199

March, in rows eighteen inches apart, and six inches from
bulb te bulb, which should be covered about three inches
deep. Cultivate and earth er hill up like potatoes, and
they will continue to grow till about the first of August, when
they are to be taken out of the ground, dried and treated
like onions raised in the ordinary way. A single onion,
slightly covered, will often produce five er six of good size.

The Tree or Welsh Onion is adapted to very cold coun-
tries, shooting up rank stems, upon which small bulbs
grow instead of seeds. These small bulbs are preserved
and planted out next year, producing roots of considerable
size, besides a fresh supply ef little seed bulbs en the
stems.

The Leex {Alium Porrwm) is a native of Switzerland,
Sut has probably been cultivated in England for many cen-
turies. The varieties are the narrow-leaved or Flanders
deek, the Scotch or fiag-leek, and the broad-leaved or tall
London leek. Of these, the Scotch leek is considered es
the most hardy; and Mr. Handasyde’s Musselburgh vya-
riety is preferred.

Leeks are sown in beds in spring, and in Juneor July
are planted out in rows fifteen or eighteen inches apart, and
six inches asunder between the rows. The tips of thie
fibrous roots are trimmed befere planting. When the
weather is moist, it is found beneficial merely to lay the
plants into the hole made by the dibble, without closing
the earth upon it, the stem being by this means encouraged
to swell out and fill the hole.

Suarxror (Adium ascalonicum) isa native of Palestine.
it is much used in cookery for high-flavored soups and
gravies, and is semetimes put into pickles. A variety

200 KITCHEN GARDEN.

ealled the Long-keeping is preferred. It is propagated by
the cloves, the smallest being selected for that purpose, and
planted in October or November. Some recommend the
mixing of soot with the manure, as a protection against
the attacks of maggots, by which this plant is greatly in-
fested. Late autumn planting, however, is found the best
expedient, as the bulbs are ripe and lifted next summer
before the larvae commence their depredations.

Garuic (Allium Sativum) and Rocampoie (Adium
Scorodoprasum), though common ingredients in continental
cookery, are comparatively seldom used in England. <A
few rows will generally be found sufficient. They are pro-
pagated by offsets or cloves from the bulbs, or by the bul-
bils which grow on the flower-stem. The Cuivre or Cive
(Altium Schoenoprasunr), % pretty little native plant, is
used occasionally as salad and alliaceous seasoning. A
single row may be planted as an edging to an onion bed,
and it is easily increased by parting the roots in spring and
autumn. This is a hardy perennial, and when once started
may be kept growing for many years. Its flayor partakes
of that of the leek and onion.

Hops.

In New England and many other parts of our country,
almost every householder has his hop vine in one corner of
his garden. It is so tenacious of life and so vigorous in its
growth, that it very soon becomes a trespasser. Of late
years, in our country, its consumption and production has
so largely increased, that many farmers raise several acres
each, from which they realize large profits, and induces in —
this place general directions for its cultivation.

The Hop is almost as easily cultivated as corn, and any
good wheat or corn land issuitable. A sandy loam is very

THE HOP. 201

good. The land should be in good heart, and well tilled,
well drained and plowed deep or subsoiled, made level,
and the roots of the vine planted in hills six feet
apart each way; some three or four roots, six or eight
inches long, with two eyes in each, one for the root and one
for the vine, placed horizontally in each hill, with a good
shovel full of well rotted manure in each. The first sea-
son after planting the crop will be hardly sufficient for set-
ting the poles, so that a crop of corn or potatoes can
be raised between the rows. It is very important that
the whole ground be kept clean from weeds and grass
by hoeing, or cultivating with plow, cultivator, &c., as not
to injure the roots. The second spring clear off the ground
and put another shovel full of manure or compost to each
hill, and set two or three stout long poles to each hill,
in such a manner that the sun and air will gain the
fullest access to them. When the vines have grown two or
three feet in length, guide them to the poles and fasten
them with a withe of straw, grass, or woolen yarn—still —
cultivate it well and keep it clean.

On the approach of frosts, watch the odor of the field,
for when that has become strong and the color of the hop
changing brown, they should be gathered by cutting the
vines off at the ground and pulling up the pole, and bearing
off the vines with them to a convenient place for pick-
ing. This should be done in a neat, clean manner, care-
fully gathering the pure hops in clean baskets, as free from
leaves and vine as possible, by hand. Two cents ber bushel
is the usual price paid for picking. Care should be taken to
prevent the waste of the pollen or yellow lupuline, in which
the chief value of the hop consists; if that is lost they are
nearly valueless. After picking they should be carefully
spread and cured in a coo}, shaded location, where they

202 KITCHEN GARDEN.

should be carefully and frequently stirred. Where many
acres are raised, a drying-house is built of stone in the form
of a tunnel, say two or three feet square at the bottom,
where an old stove is placed, and some twelve feet or more
square at the top. Care should be taken before, during, and
after drying to prevent the sweating of the hop,which is very
injurious. Care should also be taken in packing in square
bales of hemp cloth, placed in a box prepared the shape of
the bale, with the side boards so arranged as to be removed
from the bale when filled.

The hop crop at present is more profitable than almost
any other. Farmers in Otsego and Orange Counties, N. Y.,
are realizing at the present price of hops (30 to 35 cents
per pound) from $300 to $400 per acre. Some districts
have gone into their cultivation very extensively, and the
demand still keeps full pace with the supply.

Complaint was recently made by the inspector of hops in
Massachusetts, that “ too many male hops were permitted
(six hills are sufficient) to the acre in that State,” and also
they were injured by “ too early picking, before they were
ripe, and bad picking.” Care must be taken to avoid
frosts, and on that account a warm southern exposure is
preferable. If a sandy soil is chosen, irrigation is of great
advantage. Clay soil is very favorable if no water is
allowed to rest on its surface or subsoil—that is quite fatal
to the hop. Side hills that are liable to be washed should
be avoided. Mr. H. R. Potter of East Hamilton, Madi-
son County, N. Y., reported in the Albany Cultivator 7801
Ibs. of hops as the product of five acres in 1851. This,
however, was one of the largest crops ever known. The
whole expense of cultivation, interest, &c., was above $100
per acre or $550.

SPINACH. ~ 203
Spinaceous Plants.

Sprvacu (Spinacea oleracea) is an anual plant, and is a
native of Western Asia. It has long been cultivated for
the sake of its succulent leaves, which, when properly
dressed, form an agreeable and nutritious article of food.
There are three varieties: the smooth-seeded, the large-
leaved or Flanders, having also smooth seeds, and the
prickly-seeded. The latter, as being the most hardy, is
often called winter spinach.

The first sowing is made in August, in some sheltered
situation; the plants, as they advance, are thinned, and
the ground is hoed. In the beginning of winter the outer
leaves become fit for use; in mild weather successive
gatherings are obtained, and, with proper management, the
erops may be prolonged to the beginning of May.

To afford a succession-crop, the seeds of the round-
leayed smooth-seeded varieties should be sown in the end
of January, and again in February and March. From
this period it is proper to sow small quantities once a fort-
night, summer spinach lasting only a short time. The
epen spaces between the lines of cauliflower, and others of
the cabbage tribe, will generally afford enough of room for -
these transient crops. They are generally sown in shallow
drills, and are thinned out and weeded as may be required.

In the United States, the winter crops of spinach are
sown in August, and the plants generally protected through
thé winter by a light covering of matts, straw, or other
clean litter. The crops intended for summer and fall use,
may be sown from the first of April to the middle of May,
and will come in very well between the rows of peas. It
requires rich ground, and is almost worthless where grown
on thin or exhausted soil. When too thick, the plants are

204 FRUIT GARDEN.

to be thinned out. The seed, though commonly sown
broad-cast, are best in drills or rows nine inches apart, so
as to admit of hoeing between.

New Zratanp Sprinacu ( Tetragonia expansa) is a half-
hardy annual, a native of New Aealand, from which it was
brought by the late Sir Joseph Banks. The plants grow
tall, spread wide, and the leaves form a good substitute for
spinach. If the plants be well watered, they will continue
to afford large quantities of suceulent leaves during the
hottest and driest weather, when summer spinach is useless.
In England, the seed is usually sown in a pot placed in a
melon-frame in March: the seedlings are transplanted
singly into small pots, and kept under cover till the begin-
ning of June, when they are plunged out at two or three
feet apart, and treated somewhat like gourds. In gathering
the leaves, care should be taken not to injure the leading
shoots.

Quinoa Spinacu (Chenopodium Quinoa). This vegeta-
ble is a native not only of Chili but of the table land of
Mexico. It is described and figured by Ruiz and Pavon;
and Humboldt informs us that in Mexico the leaves are
universally used as spinach or greens, and the seeds in
soups, or like rice, so that quinoa there vies in utility with
the potato itself. Although the plant had been known in
Britam for a number of years, it was only during the
autumn of 1834 that any considerable portion of seed was
ripened or saved in this country. This was accomplished
at Boyton in Wiltshire, by Mr. Aylmer Bourke Lambert,
the well-known patron of botany and horticulture. Con-
sidering the elevated region in America in which the quinoa
is successtully cultivated, there can be no doubt that its
herbage may be freely produced in England’; but it seems

GARDEN ORACHE—CORN SALAD. 205

probable that in order to secure the ripening of seeds, it
will be requisite to place some plants close by a wall having
a south or south-west aspect, as is practiced with seedling
onions; more especially since we are warned by Willdenow
that in Germany “‘semina sub dio non semper perficit.”’? There
are two varieties, the common white-seeded or green Qui-
noa, and the dark-seeded or red Quinoa, the former seem-
ingly the more hardy, or at least germinating most freely.

In the United States, the seed of Quinoa may be sown
thinly, about the first of April, in rows an inch deep and
about two feet apart. In a green state, the seed-pods
make an excellent pickle. It has been raised, in the
vicinity of Baltimore, by Mr. Gideon B. Smith, who
found it very productive. It is cultivated in Peru and
Chili as a grain crop, from whence its common name of
Peruvian Rice. For further particulars in regard to this
plant, the modes of preparing it as food, &¢., see Farmers’
and Planters’ Encyclopedia, article Quinoa.

GarpEN Oracue (Atriplex hortensis) Witp Spinacu
(Chenopodium Bonus Henricus), and GARDEN PaTIENCE
(Rumex Patienta), are sometimes used in place of common
spinach; but as, in England at least, they are deemed
rather curious than useful, it may be sufficient merely to
indicate their names.

Corn Saran (Fedia Olitoria), called also Fettitus, or
Lambs’ Lettuce, is extensively cultivated and used in the
United States as a spring raw salad. In France, they often
boil and dress it like spinach.

The seed is usually sown, about the middle of Septem-
ber, in shallow drills, six inches apart, and covered lightly.
Keep clear of weeds, and in November cover lightly with

206 KITCHEN GARDEN.

straw or other clean litter. In mild winters the tender
leaves will be fit for salad all the time, and should not be
cut, but plucked with the fingers. If the seed used be not
fresh, it will frequently be many months before it comes up.
It grows spontaneously in the wheat-fields in England, in
which climate it stands the winter in the fields, and affords
early pasturage to sheep and lambs, from which last cir-
cumstance it derives one of its common names.

Asparaginous Plants.

Asparaaus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial plant,
a native of the shores of Britain, where it occurs sparingly,
and of the steppes in the east of Europe. Though some-
what unpromising while in a state of nature, it affords, in
cultivation, an esculent of considerable value, and is there-
fore grown extensively both in private and in sale gardens.
The principal varieties are the red-topped and the green-
topped, of which the latter, while it is less succulent, is
considered the better flavored. There are numerous sub-
varieties, such as the Battersea, Gravesend, Giant, &c.,
which differ only slightly from those already mentioned.

Asparagus, growing naturally on loose sand, should have
a light, deep soil, through which it may be able to shoot
its long stringy roots, Two feet and a half is considered
a desirable depth, but in France the ground is sometimes
prepared, by trenching and sifting, to the double of that
depth. A considerable portion of old dung or of recent
sea-weed is laid in the bottom of the trench; and another
top-dressing of well-rotted manure should be digged in pre-
paratory to planting or sowing. ‘The older horticulturists
used to grow their asparagus in beds four or five feet wide,
with intervening alleys of about eighteen inches in breadth.
At present, in Scotland, it is customary to sow or plant

ASPARAGUS. 207

in rows from three to four feet asunder, a method which,
in every way, is found to be most convenient. Except
where the garden is new, when, of course, it is advantage-
ous to procure a supply of ready-grown plants, it is thought
preferable to keep up the stock of asparagus by sowing,
The sowing is made in March, in slight drills; and, as
a portion of the seed often fails to germinate, itis a good
precaution to employ about double the quantity of seed
that may be ultimately necessary. If the plants come up
too thickly, they may be thinned out towards the end of the
first summer, to the distance of about six inches in the
rows. The ground is hoed and kept clear of weeds. It is
a common practice in England to take slight crops of
onions, lettuce, cauliflower, or turnip, between the lines of
asparagus during the first, and, if the rows be wide, also
in the second year. The young heads or stalks, the part
used, should not be cut before the third spring, and they
are not in perfection till the fourth or fifth. .
The asparagus quarter can scarcely be over-manured.
The proper time to perform this operation is in the end of
autumn, when the annual flower-stalks are removed, pre-
paratory for winter. When beds are employed, their sur-
face should be stirred with a fork; a layer of well-rotted
hotbed dung is then laid on, and the whole covered with a
sprinkling of earth from the alleys. If the plants are
grown in rows, the manure is simply dug in by means of a
three-pronged fork, care being taken not to injure the roots.
This operation is repeated annually, and no other culture
is required. It is necessary to observe a due moderation
in reaping the crop, as the shoots, when much cut, become
progressively smaller and less valuable. Hence it is a
general rule with gardeners never to gather asparagus after
peas have begun to come into season. Thus managed, a

208 KITCHEN GARDEN.

bed will continue productive for a number of years. A
moderate coating of salt every fall is very useful.

Asparagus readily admits of being forced. The most
common method in England is to prepare, early in the
year, a moderate hotbed of stable-litter, and to cover it
with a common frame. After the heat of fermentation has
somewhat subsided, the surface of the bed is lined with
turf, to prevent the escape of vapor; a layer of light earth
or exhausted tan-bark is put over the turf, and in this the
roots of asparagus plants five or six years old are closely
placed. The crowns of the roots are then covered with two
or three inches of soil. A common three-light frame may
hold 500 or 600 plants, and will afford a supply for seve-
ral weeks. After planting, linings are applied when ne-
cessary, and air is occasionally admitted. Care must be
taken not to scorch the roots. Where there are pits for
the culture of late melons or succession pine-plants, such
as the Alderston-pit, or the succession-pit with the hot
water circulation, they may advantageously be applied to
this purpose.

It has sometimes been recommended to force asparagus
on the ground on which it grows. Perhaps the best me-
thod is that suggested by Mr. Spiers, in vol. iv. of the
Gardener's Magazine. The seed is sown in beds four
feet eight inches wide, and there are four rows of plants
eleven inches asunder in the beds. The beds are to have
side trenches, two feet wide, and two feet deep, lined by
pigeon-hole brick-work—an operation which we presume
need not be performed till immediately before forcing, that
is, when the plants are at least three years old. In Octo-
ber, when the stalks are cleared away, the surface is cover-
ed with straw-litter. When forcing is commenced, the
brick-lined trenches are filled with hot stable-dung, well

ASPARAGUS, 209

beaten, to about eighteen inches above the surface of the
ground. ‘The bed is also covered with prepared dung. In
about twelve days, when the buds have begun to appear,
the latter covering is removed, glazed frames are placed,
resting upon the brickwork, a little fine soil is sifted over
the plants, the linings in the trenches are raised higher,
and the whole treated like a common hotbed. In this way,
we are informed, excellent supplies may be obtained, and
the plants may be forced every year.

Before leaving this subject, it may be mentioned that
about Bath the young flower-spikes of Ornithogalum
pyrenaicum, found native in that neighborhood, are used
like asparagus, under the name Prussian Grass.

Much time may be saved in getting full-bearing beds, if,
instead of sowing the seed, the roots be set out, a practice
commonly resorted to in the United States, where the
young roots are a regular marketable article. The soil
should be a loam, at least two feet deep, and cannot well
be made too rich. The beds should be about four feet
wide with two feet alleys between. The roots, when taken
up, must not be long exposed to the air, so as to get dry,
and should be deposited in rows drawn with a line stretch-
ed lengthwise on the bed, about twelve inches asunder, be-
ginning nine inches from the edge. The small trench or
furrows may be about three inches deep, and the roots set
in these about nine inches apart, are to be covered with the
fine earth thrown out in making the furrows. The culti-
vation during the first season consists merely in keeping
down the weeds and grass. The succeeding winter, cover
three or four inches deep with well-rotted manure. In
order to secure the formation of strong crowns, the plants
are allowed during the first two summers to run up to
stalks. After the third year, the stalks should be cut

210 KITCHEN GARDEN.

down close to the ground, the beds kept clean from weeds,
and in winter covered with two or three inches of manure.
As soon in the spring as the frost is out of the ground, the
earth in the beds should be loosened by means of a fork
introduced into the soil to the depth of three or four inches,
turning up the earth carefully, so as not to injure the
roots. Trim off the edges of the beds, so as to make
them even. A full crop may be expected the fourth sea-
son after planting. Cutting should not be continued after
the middle of June. Beds well situated and properly
managed will continue to yield good crops for twelve or
fifteen years. Salt and brine will be found extremely
valuable applications to the asparagus beds, and should be
put on in winter.

Sea-Kate (Crambe-maritima) is a perennial plant,
growing spontaneously on the shores of the southern parts
of England. The roots are spreading, the leaves waved,
glaucous, and covered with a fine mealy bloom, and the
stalks rise to about two feet high, bearing white flowers,
which smell of honey, followed by seed-pods, each contain-
ing a single seed.

The country people in the west of England, have long
been accustomed to use in spring the young shoots, which,
by passing through the sand and gravel on which they
grow, are somewhat blanched and rendered tender. In
conformity with this practice, the cultivation formerly
recommended consisted merely in covering the beds on the
Approach of spring with a little dry earth or sand, in order
to the blanching or internating of the shoots. These were
eut as they appeared in Marchand April. Now, however,
the blanching is not only much more completely effected,
but simple means have been devised for supplying the table

SEA-KALE. 211

for half the year, including all the winter months. It has
within these few years become a vegetable of common oc-
currence in the markets both of London and Edinburgh.

Sea-kale seems partial to a light dry soil. If manure
be added, it should consist of sea-weed or half-rotted leaves
of trees. The plants may be propagated by offsets, or
small pieces of the roots having buds or eyes attached to
them; but the most eligible method is by seed. Very
tolerable blanched stalks are sometimes produced by plants
only nine months old from the seed, and after two summers,
seedling plants will have acquired sufficient strength for
general cropping. The sowing is made in March, the
seeds being deposited in patches of three or four together :
the patches are arranged in lines three feet apart, and two
feet in the line. In order to secure a succession, and to
obviate the bad effects of forcing, it is proper to sow a few
lines of sea-kale every year.

Various modes of blanching the shoots have been resort-
ed to. In the first volume of the Memoirs ofthe Cale-
donian Horticultural Society, Sir George S. Mackenzie
describes a very convenient method. The sea-kale bed is
merely covered, early in spring, with clean and dry oat-
straw, which is removed as often as it becomes musty.
The shoots rise through the straw, and are at the same
time pretty well blanched. Others employ dried tree-
leaves for this purpose. Another method, practiced by
many gardeners, consists in placing over each plant a
flower-pot of the largest size, inverted; but convenient
blanching-pots, with movable lids, have been constructed )
for the express purpose. It may be proper to provide
from thirty to sixty such pots: and it may be expected
that each pot will, on an average, furnish a dish and a half
of shoots during the season.

212 KITCHEN GARDEN.

With the aid of these pots, sea-kale is forced in the open
border in the way now to be described. In the latter end
of autumn a bed of vigorous sea-kale plants is dressed, that
is, the stalks are cut over, and the decayed leaves are re-
moved. The ground is, at the same time, loosened about
the eyes, and a thin stratum of gravel or sifted coal-ashes
is laid on the surface to keep down earth-worms. A pot
with a movable cover is placed over each plant or each patch
of plants. Stable-litter is then closely packed all round
the pots, and raised up to about a foot above them; the
whole bed thus assuming the form and appearance of a large
hot-bed. When fermentation begins, a thermometer should -
be occasionally introduced into a few of the pots, to ascer-
tain that the temperature within does not exceed 60° Fah-
renheit, and the depth of the litter is to be regulated
accordingly. The vegetation of the included plants is
speedily promoted; so that, in the space of a month or six
weeks, the shoots will be ready for cuttipg, which being
thus excluded from the light, are most effectually blanched,
and found to be exceedingly tender and crisp. By means
of the movable lids, the plants are examined and the shoots
gathered without materially disturbing the litter. By com-
mencing the litter coverings at various times, on different
portions of the quarter, a supply of sea-kale for the table
can be readily furnished from the middle of November till
the middle of May.

This vegetable, though not as well known in the United
States as it deserves to be, can be raised with very little
trouble. The seed may be sown thinly in March, or in
April, in drills about a foot apart, and covered about an
inch deep. When the plants begin to grow, thin out so as
to leave them at first an inch, and afterwards two or three
inches apart. In November, cover the crowns of the roots

LETTUCE. Ons

with earth raised afew inches. Karly in the following spring
prepare a bed similar to that intended for asparagus, dig-
ging the soil at least fifteen inches deep. Set out the plants,
about two feet apart, the crown of each root being placed
about two inches below the level of the bed. The beds
will continue to produce as long as those of asparagus,
and like this are greatly improved by applications of salt
and brine. The plants should not be allowed to go to

seed. This vegetable is in season from Christmas to
April.

Salads, &c.

Lerruce (Lactuca sativa) is a hardy annual, but of
what country it is a native is unknown. Some suppose it
to be a seminal variety of the native LZ. vzrosa, a poisonous
plant, “which,” says Professor Lindley, ‘““would not be
more remarkable than the fact that the indigenous celery is
one of our strongest poisons.” Besides its well-known
uses, it may be mentioned that the late Dr. Dundan, Senior,
of Edinburgh, prepared from its milky juice a medicine
denominated Lactucariwm, similar in its action to opium,
but capable of being administered in cases where idiosyn-
cratic repugnance rendered that powerful drug inadmissi-
ble. There are two principal varieties, the Cos or upright,
and the round-headed or Cabbage lettuce. The subvarie-
ties are numerous; we may mention the following :—

Upright. Round.
Black-seeded Cos, White Cabbage,
Bath Cos, Brown Dutch,
White Cos, ; Marseilles,

Crown Cos, Grand Admirable.

By proper care, fresh lettuce may be had throughout the

214 KITCHEN GARDEN.

whole year. The first sowing is made in January, in some
sheltered situation, or under hand-glasses, or in February
on a gentle hotbed. The seedlings are transplanted as soon
as the weather will permit. A second sowing may be made
in the beginning of March, and another in April. Of all
culinary crops, lettuce is reckoned the least exhausting,
some gardeners, indeed, regarding it as tending to enrich
rather than impoverish the soil: it may therefore be raised
on the fruit-tree borders. Besides the ordinary compart-
ment, the seedlings may be planted on celery ridges, be-
tween rows of slight crops of other vegetables, and, in short,
in any odd corner which may occur. To obtain a winter
supply, a sowing of some of the more hardy varieties, such
as the Black-seeded green, or Bath Cos, and the Brown
Dutch, is made in August or September, and the plants are
pricked out in October along the bottom of walls, or under
glazed frames.”

Ewpive (Cichorium Endivia) is an annual plant, a na-
tive of China, from which it was introduced in 1548. It
is the lettuce of winter, the blanched hearts being used for
salads and in soups. The varieties most commonly culti-
vated in England are the Broad-leaved Batavian and Small
Batavian, the Green Curled-leaved and the White Curled-
leaved. By the French, the former are called Scarioles ;
the latter, Cichorées. A sowing may be made in the be-
ginning of June, and another in July, the seeds being scat-
tered very sparsely, that the plants may not come up in
clusters. The seedlings are transplanted into a rich soil,
where they are arranged in rows twelve or fifteen inches
asunder, and at the distance of ten inches in the row.
Sometimes they are planted in drills to facilitate the opera-
tion of blanching. The later crop should be placed in a

SUCCORY. 215

sheltered situation, where it may be able to withstand the
winter, which it will do, unless the frost prove very intense.
When the plants have reached their maturity, the leaves
are gathered up, and tied together an inch or two below
the tips, and afterwards about the middle of the plant. In
two or three weeks they are found sufficiently blanched for
use. In winter it is necessary to draw the earth quite up
about the leaves. At that season, too, the plants may be
inserted into a sloping bank of earth, or blanched in boxes
in the mushroom-house or in a cellar

Succory (Cichorium Intybus) is in England an indige-
nous perennial plant, the cultivation of which, for culinary
purposes, may be said to have been introduced into Britain
by the refugees during the French revolutionary war. By
the French it is much esteemed as a winter salad, and be-
ing often asked for by foreign cooks, a small portion should
be raised in every large garden establishment. When
blanched, it is known by the name of Barbe du Capuchin.
When succory is cultivated in the garden for winter use,
the seed is sown in May or June, commonly in drills, and
the plants are thinned out to four inches apart. If the
first set of leaves grow very strong, owing to wet weather,
they are cut off perhaps in the middle of August, about an
inch from the ground, so as to promote the production of
new leaves, and check the formation of flower-stems.
About the beginning of October the plants are raised from
the border ; all the large leaves are cut off; the roots are
alsoshortened. Theyarethen planted pretty closely together
in boxes filled with rich light mould, and watered when
needful. When frost comes on, the boxes are protected by
any kind of haulm. As the salad is wanted, they are
removed into some place having a moderately increased

216 KITCHEN GARDEN,

temperature, but with little light, such as a mushroom-
house or cellar off the kitchen. Each box affords two crops
of blanched leaves, and these are reckoned fit for cutting
when about six inches long. A neat mode of producing
the darée in any common dark cellar, from whence frost is
excluded, is described in the Horticultural Tour, p. 368. .
The succory roots are packed among moist sand, in a bar-
rel, in the sides of which numerous round holes have been
pierced, each about an inch and a half in diameter. The
crowns of the roots are so placed that the shoots may
readily push their way through the openings ; they are thus
kept quite clean, and are delicately blanched; they can be
very easily gathered as wanted, and repeated cuttings are
afforded during winter and early spring. There is a Con-
tinental variety of succory having larger roots than usual,
and knewn by the name of Checcorée a Café, the tuberous
roots of which, dried, and cut into little pieces, were, dur-
ing the great war, frequently employed as a substitute for
coffee-beans, and in Flanders, and some parts of France, a
portion of them is still very often mixed with coffee.

ParsLey (Apiwm Petroselinum) is a biennial plant, of
well-known use in cookery. Itis said to be a native of
Sardinia, but it now grows spontaneously in various parts
of Britain. The varieties are, the Common, the Curled-
leaved, and the Hamburg, the last of which is cultivated
for the sake of its tuberous roots. The curled-leaved is the
most ornamental, and it possesses the advantage of being
readily distinguished from the poisonous Authusa, which
resembles the common parsley. Parsley prefers a light,
rich soil. Itis sown in drills about the beginning of March,
and the seed lies some weeks in the ground before the
plants appear. As they grow up they are thinned out, and

CELERY. pail §

they are defended by branches or other coverings from
hard weather in winter. The Hamburgh variety is sown
about the same time in a well-trenched soil, in drills a foot
apart, and it is thinned to about nine inches in the rows.
In the beginning of November, the roots are taken up and
stored in sand.

Cetery {Apium graveolens) is a native British biennial,
an inhabitant of the sides of ditches near the sea. In its
wild state, it is of an acrid nature, and of a coarse rank
flavor; but by cultivation it is improved into one of the
most agreeable salads. There are two principal varieties ;
celery, properly so called, with upright stalks and fibrous
or slightly tuberous roots; and celeriac, with large turnip-
shaped shoots. Of the former, the principal subvarieties
are, the Italian, the Red Solid, and the White Solid, of
whick the second and third are the best.

In England, celery is usually sown at three different
times: on a hotbed in the beginning of March, and in the
open ground in March, and againin April. The seedlings,
when about two inches high, are pricked into rich soil, in
which they are allowed to stand till they be four or five
inches high. The first crop is defended by frames or hand-
glasses, and is planted wide, to admit of being lifted with
balls of earth adhering to the roots. Towards the end of
May, trenches for blanching the celery are prepared. These
trenches are three and a half or four feet apart, fifteen
inches wide at the bottom, and about a foot below the nat-
ural level of the surface. The soil at the bottom of the
trench is carefully digged and manured, and a single row
of plants is placed in each trench. Sometimes, when a large
supply is required, the trenches are made six feet wide, and,

after a similar preparation, rows fifteen or eighteen inches
10

218 KITCHEN GARDEN.

apart are planted across the trenches. As the plants ad-
vance in growth, earth is laid up about the stalks of the
leaves, an operation which is repeated at the end of every
ten or fifteen days, care being taken not to choke the plants.
As the celery approaches maturity, scareely anything but
the tips of the leaves appear above the ridges, and, when
lifted, the stalks are found to be completely blanched. Suc-
cessional crops should then be planted out. Celery sue-
ceeds best in a rich, light soil, having an abundance of
moisture.

In the United States, the Red Solid, or Manchester Red
variety of celery is found to resist the frost better than the
White Solid, which last is, however, the most erisp and
delicately flavored. Coles’ Superb Red and Seymour’s
White are the hest new varieties.

CEeLeErtac, or turnip-rooted celery (Ce/ert-rave of the
French), is treated at first like the early crop of common
celery. In the beginning or middle of June it is planted
out in a flat bed, in drills fifteen inches apart. A single
earthing afterwards suffices. Its large, round roots are
used in soups, and are much relished by some. Itis, how-
ever, more attended to in France and the Low Countries
than in Britain. There is a curly-leaved variety, which
seems to possess no advantage but its more ornamental
foliage.

Garven Cress (Lepidium atwum), of which the Nor-
mandy curled cress is the best variety, and Wuite Mus-
TARD (Stnapis alba), are generally associated in their use
as salads, and in their culture in the garden. They are
annual plants, and are eaten only when very young. In
winter, they may be raised on a slight hot-bed; in spring,

WATER CRESS, 219

under hand-glasses, or in drills near a south wall, and in
summer, when they should be sown once a fortnight, in
drills, in any cool, shady situation. Table mustard, which
is made from the seeds of Simapis nigra, Lin., belongs
rather to the department of agriculture. Durham mustard,
which is distinguished for its poignancy, though not re-
markable for fine color, is said to be made principally from
the seeds of the common yellow field-mustard or charlock,
Sinapsis arvensis, Lin.

Water Cress (Sisymbrium nasturtiwm).—This is a
creeping perennial aquatic plant, very extensively supplied
in the English markets. It requires for its proper growth
a clear stream of shallow water, not more than an inch and
a half in depth, running over clear sand and gravel. Deep
and still water, especially if the bottom be muddy, is un-
favorable. The best situations are in streams near their
sources, where the water seldom freezes in winter, as here
they continue to grow and may be gathered all winter.
In planting, the sets are put in rows about eighteen inches
apart, and lengthwise with the stream. If the depth of
water be at first only about an inch, as soon as they begin
to grow they will so obstruct its course as soon to increase
it to three or four inches above the leaves, a depth regard-
ed as highly favorable to the growth of thecresses. It is
absolutely requisite that the water shall be always run-
ning, for when the stream becomes obstructed the plants
cease to thrive. After they are cut three times they be-
gin to stock, and then the oftener they are cut the better.
The cress 1s regarded as a very wholesome raw salad vege-
table, eaten at all seasons, but more especially in winter
and spring, when its warm and cordial qualities make it
particularly grateful. It is frequently found growing

220 KITCHEN GARDEN.

spontaneously in streams, and beds should be established
wherever there isa good spring of running water. A little
spot of low ground, capable of being irrigated, can be turn-
ed up with the spade in the spring, and sown with seed, or
set out with plants. The water may be turned on and off
at pleasure, and all the further culture consists in keeping
them clear of every kind of weed, and preventing their be-
ing injured or destroyed by drought.

It may be here observed that the wild Pepper Grass
(Lepidium virginicum), which grows spontaneously almost
everywhere in the United States, is a species of cress.
See Farmers’ and Planters’ Encyclopedia, article Amert-
can Cress.

Of Ruvsars (Rheum), several species and many varie-
ties are cultivated for the purpose of supplying materials
for tarts, the foot-stalks of the leaves being well adapted
for that purpose, and coming into use at a most convenient
season, when apples are becoming scarce. &. rhaponticum
with red stalks, and paldmatum with green, were the spe-
cies first employed, and these are still occasionally used ;
but the sorts now preferred are seminal varieties, mostly
allied to R. hybridum and R. undulatum. The follow-
ing are worthy of notice :—

Wilmot’s, Buck’s
Gigantic, Culbertson’s.
Elford.

Of these, the editor of the Horticultural Register preters
the first two, the former as being excellently suited for
forcing, and the latter as growing to a large size without,
rankness. The stalks of Buck’s Early and the Elford are
of a bright scarlet color, which they retain even when

RHUBARB. 221

forced in the dark; and they are at the same time tender
and of delicate flavor. Excellent jam and jelly have been
made from these by Mr. James M’Nab, of the Horticul-
tural Society’s Garden, Edinburgh. Of late, two new va-
rieties have eclipsed all former kinds, viz., Myatt’s Vic-
toria and Youell’s Tobolsk. Both yield stalks of great
size, and which yet fadd well when boiled or baked. A
very useful variety is known at Edinburgh by the name of
Culbertson’s Rhubarb. It is less apt to shoot into flower
than most other sorts; and, although the leaf-stalks are
small, they are very numerous. The rhubarbs may be
multiplied by dividing the roots; and this is the common
practice; but they thrive much better when grown from
seed. Mr. Paxton recommends sowing on a slight hotbed
in spring, and transplanting out in rows in the month of
May. Formerly no stalks were gathered from the seedling
plants for the first two years; but Myatt’s Victoria grows
so rapidly as to permit cutting even in the first season. A
rich but porous soil suits the plant best. Where liquid
manure can be applied to a light soil, the leaves attain a
very large size. A portion of the crop is allowed to come
on under the general influence of the season; but much
also is forced, which may be done in a variety of ways.
Some treat rhubarb like sea-kale, covering the roots allow-
ed to remain in the ground with large pots or boxes, and
surrounding them with fermenting stable-litter. Others
take up the roots in autumn, pot them, and force them in
vineries or hotbeds. Perhaps the best method is to pro-
cure long narrow boxes, of a moderate depth, and to place
them, packed full of roots, in a mushroom-house or cellar,
where there is considerable temperature. The rhubard
soon throws up its stalks; and these, being partially etio-
lated, possess a delicacy and flavor superior to those grown

932 KITCHEN GARDEN,

in the open air. It is easy, by varing the time of subject-
ing the boxes to the increased temperature, to keep up a
succession of rhubarb stalks, from the period at which
kitchen apples become scarce or begin to lose their flavor
till green gooseberries come into season.

ME Lons.

Under this common name are embraced both the Water-
melon and the Musk-melon, or Cantaloupe, although so es-
sentially different in botanical characters as to belong to
different families.

Warer-meEton (Cucurbita Citrullus).—This refreshing
tropical fruit perfects itself in the open air in almost every
portion of the Middle and Southern States, especially in
the latter. It requires a light sandy soil and plenty of
heat, and will not succeed in tenacious soils or cool situa-
tions. It is planted in hills, which, owing to the great
distance to which the runners extend, ought to be eight
feet apart. The seed are best when two years old, and one
ounce will be sufficient to plant from forty to fifty hills.
When wanted of very large size, but three or four melons
should be left to each vine. By such thinning they may,
in good seasons and situations, be brought to weigh twenty-
five and thirty pounds each. There are many varieties
known in the Philadelphia and New York markets, such
as the Carolina, Spanish, Long Green, Mountain, Sweet,
White Imperial, etc. These have all red pulp, and the
last-named is much superior to the others. There are other
varieties with yellow or light-colored pulp.

CantTaLoure.—These come to great perfection in the
open air throughout the Southern and Middle States, where-

CANTALOUPE. 223

ever the soil is favorable. The light sandy alluvials of
New Jersey are very favorable to their growth. There
are many varieties, no less than fourteen of which, the best
known in England, will be found enumerated under the
head of Melon, in the pertion of this treatise relating to
the operations of the forcing garden.

The old-fashioned Musk-melon, with its smooth and
yellow rind, slightly ribbed, although once very extensive-
ly cultivated, has given place to the better-flavored Nut-
meg, Cantaloupe, and Rock-melon, with rough rind and
greener and firmer flesh, and the Netted Cutron. This
last, which derives its name from the raised net-like appear-
ance on its outer surface, is of an oval form. When well
grown, specimens will often weigh from two to five pounds.
The fiesh is of a greenish color, firm, yet juicy, and high-
flavored. When in its greatest purity and perfection, it is
considered the best melon of its kind.

The seed of the Cantaloupe are usually planted about
the first of May, when the spring frosts are no longer to be
apprehended, in hills or beds, about six feet apart each
way. In preparing the hills, the most approved way is to
dig out the earth about a foot deep and two wide, and fill
up the holes thus made with a compost consisting of a mix-
ture, in equal parts, of old well-rotted manure, sand, and
good garden soil and street dirt, where this can be had.
The hills may be heaped up about six inches above the
common level of the ground. Hight or ten seeds may be
put into the middle of each hill, a few inches apart, and
covered with about half an inch of loose earth.

When the growth of the plants has sufficiently advanced,
thin out so as to leave but three or four in each hill. The
beds are to be kept well hoed and cleared of weeds. For
the purpose of strengthening the vines, gardeners recom-

224 KITCHEN GARDEN.

mend what they call “ topping,” which consists of pinching
off the end of -each plant when it has made four or five
rough leaves. This makes them branch out and bring
their fruit earlier. After the runners are spread out, no
farther culture should be given. Particular care should
be observed to keep these melons separated from cucum-
bers, gourds, and plants of a similar family, as otherwise
great deterioration will result.

Pumpkin (Cucurbita Pepo).—Many varieties of these
are cultivated in America, such as the Mammoth or Span-
ash, Connecticut Field, White Bell,&c. The larger sorts,
some of which have been found to weigh two hundred and
fifty pounds, are only fit to feed pigs and cattle. Pumpkin
seed are generally planted in May and June, in the corn-
fields, the hills being raised between the corn-rows, and
made from eight to ten feet apart. The culture resembles
that of the Cantaloupe, and they are not by any means so
particular in their choice of soils asmelons. The Cashaw
Pumpkin is a variety resembling the Winter Squash, and
is the best variety for table use and making into pies and
puddings.

Squasu (Cucurbita Melépepo)—tIn the United States
this vegetable is of universal use, and generally ready for
the table in June, continuing to be eaten through July and
August. There are two varieties most commonly culti-
vated. The Patty Pan, or Early Bush, is preferred for
early crops. It is of a yellowish-white color, flattened
shape, and, though dwarfish in growth, is very productive.
The Large Green, or Green-Striped Squash, has a long
crooked neck, with a few whitish stripes. It does not
come so early, but, on good ground, is very luxuriaut and
productive,

VEGETABLE MARROW—CUCUMBER. 220

The seed are usually planted so as to produce a succes-
sion of crops in May, June, and July. They are deposited
in hills about four feet apart, and made like those for
cucumbers and cantaloupes, the management being very
similar. They are fit for use when not larger than the
fist, and cease to be eaten when the skin becomes too hard
to be penetrated by the finger-nail.

The Winter Squash, Valparaiso Squash, with some
other varieties of a similar kind, differ very materially
from the Swmmer Squash, and bear more resemblance to
the pumpkin family in size, shape, color of the meat, and
flavor.

VecEetaBLeE Marrow (Cucurbita Ovifera.)—This is a
species of the gourd family, and bears a resemblance to
both the pumpkin and squash. The fruit is oval, and the
inside very fleshy and of a rich yellow color. When cooked,
it is agreeable and nutritious. The culture is conducted
similar to that of the pumpkin and squash. It should not
be confounded with another member of the gourd tribe,
sometimes called by the same name, and which grows
several feet in length, being slender and curved.

CucumBer (Cucumis Satinus).—The cultivation of this
vegetable in the United States is conducted so nearly like
that of the cantaloupe, that we only refer to what we have
just said in relation to the best mode of raising those
melons as almost equally applicable to that of the cucum-
ber. But the cucumber will thrive and prove highly pro-
ductive almost everywhere, whilst the cantaloupe often
fails in places in which it does not find the proper kind of
light and sandy soil conjoined with sufficient heat. In the
Middle States, the seed may be planted any time in May,

10*

226 KITCHEN GARDEN.

Immediately after coming up, the plants of both the
cucumber and cantaloupe are liable to be attacked by a
very little black bug. The ravages of this have sometimes
been checked by sprinkling or sifting over the plants some
ashes or soot, either alone or mixed together. This should
be done in the morning whilst the leaves are still moist
with dew. When three rough leaves have been made, the
ends of the shoots should be pinched off, so as to make
them branch out and fruit sooner. For the varieties of the
cucumber best known in England, we refer to the part of
this treatise which treats of the operations of the forcing
garden.

Eae Priant (Solanum Melongena.)—There are two
varieties of this plant commonly cultivated in the United
States, one of which is a large, oval-shaped, purple-colored
fruit, often weighing many pounds, and used for cooking ;
the other variety, being white and much smaller, though
good when eaten, is generally raised for ornament. In the
Middle and Northern States, the seeds of this plant are
sown about the first of March in hotbeds, the sashes of
which should be kept down close until the plants come up,
when they may be slightly raised, so as to admit a little
air, in the middle of the day. The seeds require consid-
erable warmth to make them vegetate, which warmth must
be kept up to bring the plants forward. They will not
bear the least cold when very young, and ought, therefore,
to have a division to themselves, free from association with
cabbage-plants and other vegetables which are generally
benefitted by more or less exposure to the atmosphere dur-
ing a portion of the day.

The young plants may be taken from their beds about
the middle of May, if the weather be warm and settled,

OKRA—-TOMATO. Bar

and set out in hills from two feet to two and a half feet
apart, in a rich, warm soil, kept clean, and when about a
foot high, slightly hilled by drawing some earth around them.
The plants of the white variety are generally co ee
into pots.

Oxra (Hibiscus Esculéntis)—This West India plant
is much cultivated in the Southern and some of the Mid-
dle States, chiefly as an addition to soup. Its long and
green pods, full of seed and abounding in mucus, form the
chief ingredient in the famous gumbo-soup of the South,
and hence the plant is often called Gumbo. The beauty of
its flowers, which much resemble those of the cotton-plant,
to which family it belongs, makes it an ornament to the
parterre.

The seed may be sown in drills about two feet apart, and
lightly covered, as soon as there is no danger from spring —
frosts; namely, in the Middle States, about the first of May. —
The plants are to be thinned out so as to be about three
inches apart, and hoed frequently, a little earth being oc-
casionally drawn to the stems. On dry, warm, and good
soil the plants will attain the height of four or five feet.
The pods are only used when in a green state and filled
with mucilage. A new variety, called Dwarf Okra, is con-
sidered an acquisition.

Tomato (Solanum Lycopersicum).—The tomato, or love-
apple, has become an article of immense consumption in
the Southern and Middle States, and in the neighborhood
of Philadelphia is an object of extensive field culture.
Two species are in common cultivation, the Red-fructed
and the Yellow-fruited. Hach of these kinds is divided
into several varieties. The reds, which are regarded as the

ras)

28 KITCHEN GARDEN.

best, are distinguished into—1l. The Common Large;
2. Small; 3. Pear-shaped; 4. Cherry-shaped. Of the
yellow there are the Large Yellow, and the Small or the
Cherry-yellow. The cherry kinds of both colors are gene-
rally used for pickling, whilst the larger sorts are eaten in
various ways, or added to soups.

A rich light mould is best adapted to the culture of the
tomato, ‘Those intended for early use must be started in
hotbeds in the month of March. The seeds should be sown
thinly and covered lightly. They come up quickly and grow
rapidly, and require airing when the weather is mild.
When crowded in the first bed, many of the plants may be
transplanted into other beds under glass, and placed three
or four inches apart. The planting out in the open air
may take place about the first of May, when the young
plants may be put about three feet apart in the most shel-
tered spots, where they will have they full benefit of the sun.
As they grow up they must have the earth drawn about
their stems, and when a foot high, branches or other means
of support must be provided for the vines to run or hang
upon. As soon as they have set their fruit, the earliest
plants should have a few inches of their tops pinched off,
which will make them ripen their fruit sooner.

In England, the following annual plants are occasionally
used in cookery, or as salads: Chervi/, Cheerophyllum sa-
tivum; Pwrslane, Portulaca oleracea; Lambs’ Lettuce,
Fedia olitoria; Jndian Cress, Tropreolum majus; Mari-
gold, Calendula officinalis; Borage, Borago officinalis.
These may be sown in spring, or in the beginning of sum-
mer, in any fresh light soils. In general, a small quantity
will suflice. *

The Common Sorre?, Rumex acetosa; the French Sor-

SORREL. 229

vel, Rumex scutatus; and the Horse-radish, Armoracia
rusticana, are perennials, and are increased by parting their
roots. They thrive in any cool, shady situation.

Sorrex (Rumezx acetosa).—This is the common sorrel
indigenous in England, growing everywhere, like its close
kindred sheep sorrel (fwmex acetocella), in the United
States. ‘The garden or cultivated sorrel is much used by
the French, both in soups and boiled, and eaten like spin-
ach. They regard it as possessed of healthy properties,
adapted to some constitutions and ailments.

The Capsicum or Chilly, Capsicum annuum, and he
Love-Apple, Solanum Lycopersicum, are tender annuals
from tropical climates. Both, in England, are sown in hot-
beds in spring, and after being transplanted and nursed in
separate pots, are planted out, the former in a warm border,
and the latter against a wall. In Scotland, the Capsicum
will scarcely mature its fruit without the aid of glass.

Dill, Anethum graveolens and Angelica, Angelica arch-
angelica, are umbelliferous biennials, which have been for a
long period, though notextensively, cultivated in English gar-
dens. They are easily raised from seed. With these maybe
associated the beautiful native perennial Fenne/ (Fceniculum
vulgare), the buds and leaves of which are used in salads
and sauces. It may be propagated either by parting the
roots, or by seeds, which should be sown in autumn, soon
after they are ripe. Finochio, or Florence Fennel, is an
improved variety, with more succulent stems; but its cul-
tivation seems rather neglected in England. The seed of
Finochio may be sown in the end of March, on a warm
border, or better, perhaps, in a frame, in the manner of cel-
ery. The young plants may be pricked out into a sheltered
quarter, at six inches apart in every direction. When the

230 KITCHEN GARDEN.

outer leaves covering the stems are pulled off, the stems
have a whitish appearance, giving the aspect of blanching.
If the weather prove dry, watering is useful, the object be-
ing to render the stems as thick and succulent as possible.
In Lombardy, these stems are much used. Cut into thin
slices, they form a favorite garnish for ragouts of fowlor veal ;
slightly boiled or stewed, and cut small, a desirable ingre-
dient for giving flavor to gravy soups; and, along with
grated parmesan, an excellent maccaroni.

Burnet or Pimpernell is a hardy perennial plant, the
young leaves of which are used in salads, and by the
French added to soups, to which it communicates a warm
and grateful taste. ‘The seed may be sown in early spring,
and a few plants will suffice for a family. Plants may be
multiplied by parting the roots.

In every garden, there is a small department set apart
for the culture of Sweet Herbs and Medicinal Plants. We
need not here enter into details respecting their uses or
culture, but shall merely give classified lists.

Shrubby Plants increased by parting the roots, or by
cuttings: Thyme, Thymus vulgaris; Sage, Salvia officina-
lis; Woanter Savory, Satureja montana; Rosemary, Ros-
marinus officinalis ; Lavender, Lavandula Spica; Hyssop,
Hyssopus officinalis ; and Rwe, Ruta graveolens.

Perennial Herbaceous Plants, increased by parting the
roots: Spearmint, Mentha viridis; Peppermint, M. pi-
perita; Pennyroyal, M. pulegium; Balm, Melissa offici-
nalis; Tarragon, Artemisia Dracunculus; Tansy, Tana-
cetum vulgare; Burnet, Poterium Sanguisorba; Costmary,
Balsamita vulgaris; Chamomile, Anthemis nobilis.

Brennial or Annual Plants, increased by sowing the
seeds: Clary, Salvia Sclarea; Coriander, Coriandrum
sativum; Caraway, Carum Carui; Sweet Marjoram,

FLOWER GARDEN. 231

Origanum majorana; Swmmer Savory, Satureja hortensis ;
Sweet Basil, Ocimum basilicum; and Bush Basil, O.
minimum. These last, the basils, which are natives of the
Kast, and in much request for their delicate flavor, are
raised on hotbeds in spring, and transplanted with balls
into some warm situation. In Scotland, they are mostly
treated as tender annuals, and are grown under glazed
frames, in flower-pots.

It may here be noticed that the young green leaves of
Prunus Laurocerasus (under the name of laurel) may pro-
perly enough be employed in garnishing; but they ought
never to be used, as they too often are, for giving a nutty
flavor, or for greening other articles; the hydrocyanic or
prussic acid given out being very apt to prove injurious,
even in small quantities.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The cultivation of flowers, if not the most useful, is at
least one of the most pleasing, occupations of the horticul-
turist, and has generally shared largely.in his attention.
It is probable that, at first, flowers, as objects of curiosity,
were confined to a few beds or borders in the garden, as is
still the case in many old places; but in the progress of
the art, and the diffusion of taste, separate departments
were allotted to them, under the name of Flower Gardens,
After some general remarks on the style and situation, we
shall treat of the component parts of flower gardens, their
various decorations, and of floriculture.

The designing of flower gardens unquestionably belongs
to the fine arts, involving in it the exercise of invention,
taste, and foresight. Its principles are more vague and

232 FLOWER GARDEN.

evanescent than those of any of the sister arts. The hand
of the designer is not here guided by the imitation of Na-
ture, for his work is wholly artificial in its arrangements
and appliances, neither does utility come in, as in archi-
tecture, to supply a form and frame-work, which it is the
artist’s part toadorn. ‘As flower gardens,” says Mr. Lou-
don, the best authority on this topic, “ are objects of plea-
sure, the principle which must serve as a guide in laying
them out must be taste. Now, in flower gardens, as in
other objects, there are different kinds of tastes; these em-
bodied are called styles or characters; and the great art of
the designer is, having fixed on a style, to follow it out un-
mixed with other styles, or with any deviation which would
interfere with the kind of taste or impression which that
style is calculated to produce. Style, therefore, is the lead-
ing principle in laying out flower gardens, as utility is in
laying out the culinary garden. As objects of fancy and
taste, the styles of flower gardens are various. The modern
style is a collection of irregular groups and masses, placed
about the house as a medium, uniting it with the open
lawn. The ancient geomatric style, in place of irregular
groups, employed symmetrical forms; in France, adding
statues and fountains; in Holland, cut trees and grassy
slopes; and in Italy, stone walls, walled terraces, and
flights of steps. In some situations, these characteristics
of parterres may with propriety be added to or used instead
of the modern sort, especially in flat situations, such as are
enclosed by high walls, in towns, or where the principal
building or object is in a style of architecture which will
not render these appendages incongruous. There are other
characters of gardens, such as the Chinese, which are not
widely different from the modern; the Indian, which con-
sists chiefly of walks under shade, in squares of grass; the

FLOWER GARDEN, 233

Turkish, which abounds in shady retreats, boudoirs of roses
and aromatic herbs; and the Spanish, which is distinguished
by trellis-work and fountains; but these gardens are not
generally adapted to this climate, though, from contem-
plating and selecting what is beautiful or suitable in each,
a style of decoration for the immediate vicinity of mansions
might be composed preferable to anything now in use.” It
may, however, be remarked, that the flower garden, pro-
perly so called, has generally been too much governed by
the laws of landscape-gardening, and these often ill under-
stood and misapplied. In the days of “ clipped hedges
and pleached alleys,” the parterres and flower-beds were of
a description the most grotesque and intricate imaginable.
At a subsequent period, when the natural and the pictur-
esque became the objects of imitation in the park, there
appeared the most extravagant attempts at wildness in the
garden. The result has been equally unfortunate. It is
not meant that where there are merely a few patches of
flowers, by way of foreground to the lawn, they should not
be subordinated to the principles which regulate the more
distant and bolder scenery ; but wherever there is a flower
garden of considerable magnitude and in a separate situa-
tion, we think it should be constructed on principles of its
own. In such a spot, the great object must be to exhibit
to advantage the graceful forms and glorious hues of flow-
ering plants and shrubs; and it is but seldom that mere
elegancies in the forms of compartments, and other tricke-
ries of human invention, can bear any comparison with
these natural beauties. To express the peculiar nature of
garden scenery, as distinct from the picturesque in land-
scape, Mr. Louden invented the term gardenesque ; and,
whatever way be thought of the term itself, it is very de-
sirable that the distinction should be preserved.

234 FLOWER GARDEN.

Two varieties of flower gardens have chiefly prevailed in
Britain ; one, in which the ground is turf, and the pattern,
so to speak, is composed of a variety of figures cut out af

the turf, and planted with flowers and shrubs; and an-
: other, where the flower-beds are separated by gravel-walks,
without being interspersed with grass at all. The choice
of one or other of these varieties ought greatly to depend
upon the situation. When the flower garden is to be seen
from the windows, or any other elevated point of view,
from which the whole or the greater part of the design may
be perceived at once, perhaps the former should be prefer-
red. Where the surface is irregular, and the situation
more remote, and especially where the beauty of flowers is
the chief object of contemplation, the choice should proba-
bly fall on the latter. This variety, too, seems preferable,
on the principle of contrast, where there are large lawns in
the outer grounds, in order that Aept (or smoothly-mown)
grass may not be found everywhere.

Respecting the situation of the flower garden, no very
precise directions can be given, as it must be influenced by
the size of the domain, the nature of the lawns, and the
site of the mansion to which it is attached. Generally
speaking, it should not be at any great distance from the
house; and in places where there is no distant view of im-
portance, it may be constructed under the windows. In
retired scenes, it is delightful to step out of the drawing-
room into compartments of flowers, in the vicinity ofa green-
house or conservatory. On the other hand, when the park
is spacious, and the prospects extensive and picturesque,
it is perhaps better that the flower garden should be at
some distance, but not more than a quarter of a mile, out
of sight of the house, and with an easy access in any sort
of weather—an arrangement which would give an agreeable

FLOWER GARDEN. 235

termination to a short walk, a desirable matter in most
cases; for it has often been remarked that many parts of
extensive grounds remain unvisited because they afford no
remarkable object to attract attention.

_The particular form of a flower garden is equally be-
yond the inculcation of specific rules. Indeed, it may be
of any shape, and, except where the dimensions are ex-
tremely limited, the boundaries should not be continuously
visible. The taste of the proprietor or designer, and the
capabilities of the situation, must determine not only the
external configuration, but also the arrangement of the in-
terior parts. By judicious management, it may be made
to pass through shrubbery, gradually assuming a more
woodland character, and groups of trees, into the park on
the one hand, and into the kitchen garden or orchard on
the other. In most cases, even where it is in the vicinity
of the mansion house, the flower garden should be encir-
cled with some sort of fence, in order to convey the idea
of protection, as well as to furnish security to the vegetable
inmates of the parterres, it being impossible to carry on
floriculture to any great extent in open places which are
accessible to hares and rabbits, or any other kind of in-
truders. In detached localities, the fences may be made
sufficiently strong to preclude the intrusion of every species
of vagrant ; and these fences it is not difficult to mask with
shrubs and trees. A north wall of moderate extent and
moderate elevation is often desirable, as affording space for
ornamental climbers and half-acclimatized exotics, and as
forming a point d’ appu for the conservatory and other
botanical structures. Such a wall may be surmounted
with urns and other architectural ornaments, and screened
at some little distance behind by trees. The other fences
may be of wire-work, generally called invisible, or of

wooden voile Le om ue 1 4 th rails.

236 FLOWER GARDEN.

Formerly the flower-beds were made either circular,
straight, or in curves, and were turned into knots, scrolls,
volutes, and other compartments; and this taste prevailed,
perhaps, in some measure from a desire on the part of the
contrivers, to compensate by their ingenuity for the pau-
city of the ornamental plants which were then cultivated.
Now that the riches of Flora have poured into our gardens,
a simpler taste has obtained. Of the figures in fashion at
present in the lawn flower garden, perhaps the kidney-
shape and its varieties occur too frequently. It is need-
less, as well as impossible, to specify the numerous con-
figurations of flower-pots, for they abound in kaleidoscopi-
eal variety. Good taste will suggest that those only should
be associated which harmonize well together; and it is
better to incur the hazard of an apparent monotony than
to excite wonder by incongruous combinations. When
figures are separated by turf, it is proper that the little
lawns or glades should have a considerable degree of
breadth, for nothing has a worse effect than overcrowding.
A multitude of little figures should also be avoided; for
they produce what Mr. Gilpin calls spotteness, which, as
he has correctly pointed out, is a grievous deformity. In
this sort of flower garden it is desirable that a gravel-walk
should skirt along at least one side of the principal figures ;
in our humid climate the grass would otherwise render
them inaccessible with comfort during a great part of the
year. In those gardens from which turf is excluded, the
compartments should be of a larger and more massive
character.

Narrow borders, bounded by parallel straight lines and
concentric curves, should be avoided. The centres of the
figures should be occupied with tall-growing shrubs, and
even with an occasional low evergreen tree, such as a yew

ROCK-WORK. 237

or a holly. The walks, arranged in long concave curves,
may communicate here and there with one another. A
dial, a few seats and arbors, with an urn or two, or a vase,
may be introduced with good effect. It is to be regretted
that so few good specimens of this species of flower garden
have hitherto been executed in Britain.

Amongst the accompaniments of the flower garden may
be mentioned the Rock-work. This consists of variously
grouped masses of large stones, generally such as are re-
markable for being figured by water-wearing, or for con-
taining petrifactions or impressions; and into the cavities
between the stones, filled with earth, alpine or trailing
plants are inserted. These are numerous, and may be end-
lessiy diversified. Several species of Helianthemum, Gen-
tiana, Pentstemon,and Primula; Campanula pumila, blue
and white varieties, carpatica, and nitida; Saponaria
ocymoides, and Adonis vernalis may be recommended.

Alpine or Rock Plants.—Soldanella alpina, Clusii, and
minima. Silene acaulis, maritima plena. Sempervivum
arachnoideum, grandiflorum, and even the common house-
leek or fowet of Scotland, 8. tectorum. Dwarf crimson-
flowered Raspberry, Rubus arcticus. Dracocephalum
grandiflorum. Potentilla tritentata. Phlox subulata,
setacea, virginica, and stolonifera. Oxytropis uralensis.
Lychnis alpina. lLinaria alpina. Liatris pilosa and
spicata. Hippocrepis comosa. Epimedium alpinum.
Aubrietia deltoidea. Dryas octopetala and Drummondii.
Cardamine bellidifolia. Aster alpinus. Anemone pal-
mata, and Pulsatilla or pasqueflower. No plants produce
a finer effect than the different varieties of the common
rock-rose, Helianthemum vulgare, double-flowered, pale,
yellow, and dark orange-colored. Aithionema membrana-
ceum. Aletris farinosa. Iris tenax. Geranium Walli-

238 FLOWER GARDEN.

chianum. Gentiana septemfida. Siversia triflora. As-
tragalus alpinus. Erinus alpinus and hispanicus. Ra-
monda pyrenaica. Sedum ternatum. Alyssum olympi-
cum. Antenaria dioica and alpina. Dianthus alpinus
and nitidus.

In appropriate situations, a small piece of water may be
introduced for the culture of aquatic plants.* One of the
walks is sometimes arched over with wire-work, and cover-
ed with ornamental climbing shrubs, affording a delightful
promenade in the glowing days of summer. A separate
compartment, generally of some regular figure, is set apart
for roses, A moist or rather a shady border, with bog
earth, is devoted to that class of shrubs, commonly, but
not very accurately, designated ‘‘ American plants.” In
extensive places, a separate ‘“ American Garden” is often
formed in a locality which, if not damp, has at least the
command of water, occupying generally some warm corner
of the park.

Some writers have advocated the formation of Winter
and Spring Gardens in separate localities; but we are not
aware that their ideas have ever been embodied to any
great extent. It is proposed that in the winter garden
should be assembled all the hardy evergreen shrubs and
plants, together with the few flowers that bloom during
the brumal months. The situation, it is recommended,
should be well sheltered, and open only to the warm rays
of the sun, which are peculiarly grateful in our cold sea-

* For such a pond, it is sometimes found difficult to form a thoroughly re-
tentive bottom with clay, however well puddled. In places near the
sea, an effective puddle may be obtained by mixing two parts of shore sand
with one part of quicklime, and forming a mortar of them with sea-water, to
be spread over the bottom of the pond. This mode of puddling was devised
by Mr. Robert Millie, and adopted with perfect success for a pond at his
curious little rock-work garden at Pathhead, in Fife.

SOIL, 239

son. However attractive this scheme may be in theory, it
seems doubtful whether it would be very successful in
execution. Masses of evergreens have a sombre and mono-
tonous effect, even in winter, unless occasionally broken
and varied by deciduous trees. The contrast of their leaf-
less neighbors relieves the intenseness of their gloom, and
sets off their brilliancy. Though a winter garden (the
very name of which is chilling) is perhaps not very desira-
ble by itself, the object sought to be attained should not
be lost sight of in the formation of the park and the flower
garden. We can easily suppose a particular section of the
latter to contain a predominance of evergreens, and to pos-
sess the principal characters of a Winter Garden, without
the formality of its name and purpose. In the endless va-
riety of situations, it is not difficult to imagine a sloping
bank, for instance, facing the sun, with a long walk skirt-
ing its base, the lower side of which might be adorned with
a border or narrow parterre planted with arbutus and
periwinkle, whilst the slope is covered with the higher
evergreens, and the summit of the acclivity is crowned
with groups of deciduous trees, interrupted by a few strag-
gling firs, through which the wind, unfelt below, might
sigh its melancholy music. Again, a site for the Spring
Garden, which need not be of very great extent, may be
found in the vicinity of the green-house or conservatory,
with which it is naturally allied.

Soil.—A variety of soils is required in the flower gar-
den, to suit the very different kinds of plants that fall to be
cultivated. To florists’ flowers particular compounds are
assigned, and these shall be mentioned when treating of
the flowers themselves. American plants require a peaty
earth, varying from boggy peat to almost pure sand. Al-
luvial peat, that is, boggy earth which has been washed

240 FLOWER GARDEN.

away and incorporated with white sand, is to be preferred:
peat, cut from its natural bed and only partially decom-
posed, is of no value at all, or rather is positively prejudi-
cial to plants. In collecting soil from the surface of a muir,
it is proper to take no more than the upper turf or sod,
with the peat adhering to it, and only from the driest
parts of the muir, where particles of white sand abound,
and where, besides the common heath, fescue-grasses occur.
Where this kind of muir-soil cannot be procured, a good
substitute is fouud in vegetable mould, that is, decayed
leaves swept from lawns or woods, and allowed to lie in
heaps for afew years. For the general purpose of the flower
garden, a light loamy soil is advantageous ; and, where the
natural covering is thin, or requires making up, recourse
should be had to the surface-earth of old pastures, which,
especially when incumbent on trap-rocks, is found to be
excellent. It is expedient to have a large mass of this
material always in the compost yard. The turf and the
surface-soil adhering to it should be laid up in a rough
state, in which way it is continually ameliorating, by the
decomposition of the vegetable matters, and the action of
the air.

Piants requiring a Peaty Soil_—Rhododendron Cau-
easicum, ferrugineum, chamecistus, Lapponicum, hirsutum,
campanulatum, maximum, dahuricum, atrovirens, and sev-
eral beautiful hybrids, such as the alto-clerense and Rus-
sellianum, raised at Highclerc. Kalmia latifolia, glauca,
angustifolia, nitida. rica australis, arborea, mediterran-
ea, ramulosa, scoparia, vagans, ciliaris. Ledum palustre
and latifolium. Vaccinium myrtillus, the bilberry, and
V. uliginosum, the blueberry of this country, and several
North American species. Menziesia coerulea, Rhodora

GARDEN WALKS 241

canadensis ; also numerous Azaleas, particularly the Ghent
varieties.

Garden Waiks.—During the prevalence of the Dutch
taste, grass walks were commen in eur gardens; but, in
consequence of the inconvenience arising from their frequent
wetness in our humid climate, they have im a great mea-
sure been discarded. Their disuse is perhaps to be regret-
sed, as in some situations, particularly behind lengthened
screens of trees, or in gardens from which grass has been in
a great measure excluded, they form rather an agreeable
variety. It is justly observed by Sir William Temple that
“ two things peculiar to us, and which contribute much to
the beauty and elegance of our gardens, are the gravel of
our walks, and the fineness and almost perpetual greenness
of our turf;” and therefore no trouble should be spared in
securing excellence in these respects. In old times, grass
walks were formed with much care. After the space which
they were to occupy had been digged and leveled that it
might subside equally, a thin layer of sand or poor earth
was laid upon the surface, and over this a similar layer of
good soil. This arrangement was to prevent excessive
lfixuriance in the grass. In selecting the seed, all annual,
wiry, and coarse sorts of grass should be avoided. Per-
haps a mixture of Roughish Meadow-grass (Poa trivialis),
Sheep’s Fescue-grass (Festuca duriuscula and Festuca ovi-
na), and Crested Dogstail grass (Cynosurus cristatus), is
about the best that could be selected. Poa nemoralis is
well adapted for shaded situations. The seeds of these
species, accurately selected, are now sold in the principal
seed-shops. White clover, although ornamental should,
scarcely be admitted, as it tends te keep the grass in @

damp state.
11

243 FLOWER GARDEN.

Gravel walks, in this department, are formed precisely
in the same manner as those in the kitchen garden. Ié
may, however, be remarked, that numerous gravel walks,
particularly when narrow, have a puny effeet. All the
principal lines should be broad enough to allow at least
three persons to walk abreast; the others may be narrow.
Much of the neatness of walks depends upon the material
of which they are made. Gravel from an inland pit is to
he preferred, though occasionally very excellent varieties
are found upon the sea-shore. The gravel of Kensington
and Blackheath has attained considerable celebrity ; and
is frequently employed in remote parts of the kingdom, the
expense being lessened by its being conveyed to different
sezports as ballast of ships. In summer, a gravel walk
requires hoeing and raking from time to time, to clear i
from weeds and tufts of grass. After this operation, or
even after a simple sweeping, it isrolled down with a hand-
roller; and this is repeated as often as the surface is ruffled.
Nothing contributes more to the elegance and convenience
of garden walks than frequent rolling.

Edgings.—Walks are generally separated from the
borders and parterres by some kind of dense bushy plant,
planted closely in line. By far the best edging is afford@
by the Dwarf Dutch Box (Buxus sempervirens var). It
is extremely neat, and, when annually clipped, will remain
in good order for many years. It may be planted at any
season, except when in full growth or in midwinter. Hx-
ecllent edgings are also formed by Sea Pink (Statice arm-
eria) and Double Daisy (Bellis pereunis). Dwarf Gentian
(Gentiana acaulis), London Pride (Saxifraga umbrosa), and
the pretty native saxifrage, S. hypnoides, are likewise used.
Indeed, any low-growing herbaceous plant, susceptible of
minute division, is fitted for an edging. Among the great

SHRUBS: 243

variety occasionally employed for this purpose may be >
mentioned the Pansy (Viola tricolor), the Dwarf Bell-
flower (Campanula pumila), the Cowslip, Polyanthus,
Auricula, Hepatica, Veronica fruticulosa, Calluna vulgaris
fl. pleno, Erica carnea, and Strawberry plants, particularly
the Bush Alpines. Edgings may also be formed of spars
of wood, narrow pieces of sandstone flag, or even of slight
bars of cast-iron. In shrubberies and large flower-plots,
verges of grass-turf, about a foot in breadth, make a very
handsome border to walks. These should not be allowed
to rise high above the gravel: an inch and a half may be
assigned as the limit they should not exceed. The grass
is kept short by repeated mowings, and the edges are de-
fined by clipping with shears, or cutting with a paring-iron.

Shrubs.—Much of the beauty of the pleasure garden
depends upon the proper selection and disposition of orna-
mental trees and shrubs; and it is to be regretted that this
department of the art has often been greatly neglected.
In many English gardens we still find only a few ever-
greens, and a parcel of rugged deciduous species, intro-
duced probably before the age of Miller. No wonder,
therefore, that we sometimes hear complaints of the in-
sipid appearance of the shrubbery. Nevertheless, shrubs
are highly elegant in themselves, and they afford a most
efficient means of diversifying garden scenery. Of the
many beautiful species now to be had in Britain, and
- affording the materials of exquisite decoration, we can
mention only a few. For extensive lists and for much
general information, we may once more refer to the work of
the late Mr. Loudon, a new and improved edition of which
has been published by his talented widow, well known in
the literary world for her varied writings, and especially
for her popular treatises on Botany and Floriculture.

244 FLOWER GARDEN.

Of Evergreens, besides the Common Laurel (Prunus
Laurocerasus) and the Portugal Laurel (P. Lusitanica),
we have noticed the American Arborvitz (Thuja occiden-
talis), as adapted to large masses of shrubs; and the
Chinese Arborvite (T. orientalis), whose size and mode of
growth fit it for smaller compartments. The different
varieties of Rhamnus Alaternus, and the species of Phil-
lyrea and Juniperus, have long and deservedly been favorite
evergreens. The Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis), in favorable
situations, rises Into a handsome shrub or low tree, and
may convey to the student of the classics an idea of the
Delphic laurel. The Strawberry tree (Arbutus Unedo), a
native of Ireland as well as of the south of Europe, will
always find a place as one of the most elegant of plants,
equally beautiful as regards foliage, flower, and fruit; nor
should its compatriot, the Irish Yew, ascending like the
pillared cypress, be forgotten. The Cypress itself, though
rather a denizen of the park, may be sparingly introduced.
The Laurustinus (Viburnum Tinus), with blossoms ap-
proaching the snowin whiteness, enlivens the winter season,
when little else is in flower in the shrubbery. The Swedish
and Irish Junipers deserve a place. Different species of
Daphne will not be forgotten; it may be sufficient to
enumerate pontica, collina, Cneorum, and hybrida. Several
species of Berberis deserve places; in particular, B. aqui-
folia, glumacea, dulcis, and repens, which are not only
elegant but very hardy. For a long time, the seasons re-
commended for the planting of evergreens were either the
spring or the autumn; but experience (as fully shown by
Mr. William M’Nab in his Treatise on the subject) has
proved that the eznzer is the safest and most appropriate
period of the year. The fragrant jasmine (Jasminum
officinale) ought not to be forgotten. It is admirably

SHRUBS. 245

adapted for covering a wall or a trellis, and if care be
taken not to prune away too many of the young shoots, it
will afford its blossoms abundantly. It may also, by cut-
ting in, be trained up as a small standard shrub, or it may
be trimmed to a single stem and head, potted, and placed
in the green-house. As extremely low evergreens, we may
mention Gualtheria procumbens and Shallon, Polygala
Chamzbuxus, and Astragalus Tragacantha; but these
would probably be better placed among what are popularly
called American plants. Of the more tender evergreens,
we should name the Andrachne (Arbutus Andrachne), a
beautiful shrub, but liable to be injured by severe frosts;
and the pittosporum Tobira of Japan, with glossy foliage
and fragrant flowers. The Broad-leaved Myrtle (Myrtus
Romana), in warm places, and with the aid of a covering
in the depth of winter, may be made to clothe the wall
with its brilliant verdure for eight months in the year, and
with its white flowers for some weeks in the end of sunimer.
Treated in the same way, the noble Magnolia grandiflora
(particularly the Exmouth variety) will yield its large and
fragrant blossoms. Ancuba Japonica and Buxus Balearica
are handsome shrubs, of a somewhat stronger constitution;
the former is very ornamental in dull shady places, where
no other shrub will grow, and it withstands severe frost,
which destroys laurustinus. The beautiful tribes of Cistus
and Helianthemum, some of which are quite hardy, are well
adapted for adorning sloping banks. _

Amongst the shrubs that require a peaty soil, or at least
a damp and shady situation, the splendid genus Rhodo-
dendron holds the principal place. Of the larger species
may be mentioned R. Ponticum, Catawbiense, and Maxim-
um, with their numerous hybrid varieties. In early spring,
R. Dauricum and atrovirens expand their blossoms among

246 FLOWER GARDEN.

the first of flowering shrubs. Nor should we overlook
punctatum, ferrugineum, and Chamecistus, of humbler
growth, but not inferior in beauty. With these the closely
cognate genus of Azalea, with its multitudinous species and
varieties, disputes the palm of elegance. The pale and
drooping Andromedas are scarcely of inferior interest.
The hardy Heaths, particularly Erica carnea, tetralix,
and stricta, Menziezia polifolia and ccerulea, and the Can-
adian Rhodora, combine to bring up the rear of this de-
partment of Flora’s train.

The deciduous flowering shrubs are too much neglected
in many gardens. They are seldom well managed, either
in point of arrangement or of pruning, for the production
of picturesque effect. Very often they are huddled to-
gether promiscuously, and grow up into the shape of huge
sheaves of rushes. With judicious management, there are
no finer objects in the vegetable kingdom than the common
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), or the hybrid Varin (S. Rathom-
agensis), or even the old Gueldres-Rose (Viburnum Opu-
lus), with “her silver globes, light as the foamy surf.”
Another species, the Crimped-leaved Gueldres-Rose (V.
plicatum), produces flowers more abundantly, and is, there-
fore, still more ornamental. Nor ought the Mock-orange
(Philadelphus coronarius) to be neglected; for, while the
flowers are ornamental, their orange perfume is powerful.

It would lead us into disproportioned detail to specify a
tithe of those showy shrubs which should be dear to every
floriculturist. Suffice it to name Ribes sanguineum (of
which a double-flowered variety and also a white variety
have lately appeared), Daphne mezereum, Spartium of
many species, Cystisus, Amygdalus, and Pyrus. The Ribes
speciosum, or Fuchsia-flowered gooseberry, seems to re-
quire the protection of a wall, but deserves it, The fine

SHRUBS. 247

suifruticose plant Pzeonia Moutan requires a sheltered posi-
tion in the shrubbery, where, in May and June, its flowers
excel all others in magnificence. Two species of Garrya,
from the higher parts of Mexico, have of late been added
to our choice evergreen shrubs. G. elliptica flowers in
winter, if the season be open, and succeeds well if trained
against a south wall; its male catkins are long, and hang
down very gracefully, so that the plant forms a fine accom-
paniment to the Laurustinus. G. laurifoliais equally har-
dy, and forms a handsome shrub. From the list published
by Mrs. Loudon, any one might form such a collection as,
when properly arranged, would produce all the variety and
beauty expected from the shrubbery.

There are many fine climbling shrubs, such as the spe-
cies of Clematis, particularly grandiflora and Sieboldtii,
and of Lonicera or honeysuckle; the Passiflora ccerulea,
with its curious and beautiful flowers; and Aristolochia
Sipho, remarkable for the size and elegance of its foliage.
Others, though not precisely, of this class, are much be-
holden to the shelter of a wall, suck as the Cercis siliquas-
trum, or Judas-tree, and Edwardsia tetraptera and micro-
phylla. Among those of recent introduction into England
may be noticed Leycesteria formosa, Glycine Sinensis,
Hccremocarpus seaber, and Sollya heterophylla. Some
herbaceous creepers suceeed admirably when trained
against a wall in the open garden; particularly Maurandia
semperfiorens and Barclayana, and Lophospermum scan-
deds and erubescens. The numerous species or varieties
of Fuchsia, when planted against the wall, or even in the
open ground, and protected with an occasional covering in
winter, convey to us a better idea of the riches of Chilian
vegetation than when they are confined to the shelves of
the green-kouse. Among the more ornamental hardy

248 FLOWER GARDEN.

varieties may be mentioned F. discolor and EF’. Riccartonia ;
and particularly F’. corymbiflora, perhaps the finest of all.
Many roses are also well adapted for walls, such as the
varieties of Noisette, Boursault, and the different species
from China.

A separate compartment, called the Rosary, is generally
devoted to the cultivation of roses. It is often of an oval
form, with concentric beds, and narrow intervening walks
of grass or gravel, but it may assume any configuration
which is suited to display this favorite plant. Of the thou-
sand varieties of roses which exist in the English nurseries,
we pretend not to give any selection. It may, however, be
remarked, that in planting the Rosary, care should be taken
to classify the sorts according to the sizes and affinities,
otherwise the effect will be much impaired. The sorts are
generally classed as Damasks, Perpetuals, French Roses,
Chinese Roses, Scotch, Celestials, and Moss Roses. A.
variety of double-flowering Sweet Briers have been recently
added to their number, uniting the beauty of the double
rose and the fragrance of the brier. The climbing sorts
may be advantageously introduced, being trained to pillar-
like trellises, In the Royal Botanic Garden ef Edinburgh
they are trained to living posts, consisting of straight pop-
lars, closely pollarded, so as to show only a few leaves at
top. The Banksian Rose is one of the finest climbers, but
has this peculiarity, that the flowers are produced only on
shoots of one year’s growth; the pruning must therefore
take place at midsummer, so as to allow time for the de-
velopment of new shoots; if done in the autumn there can
be no roses next season. In Scotland it is suited only for
the conservatory. When the Rosary is extensive, itis ju-
dicious to intersperse some of the most showy hollyhocks;
for thus the beauty of the quarter is maintained in the later

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 249

months of autumn, when the roses are chiefly past. Of late
years, quantities of standard roses have been imported from
the Continent. These are the finer sorts, budded on tall
stalks of the wild species, such as R. villosa and canina.
They are well adapted to stand singly on the little lawns
in flower-gardens, or to break the uniformity of low flower
borders.

All shrubs nearly may be propagated by layers, some
by budding or grafting, many by separating the roots. In
planting out, shrubs may be arranged either singly or in
masses; the latter method is perhaps the most efficient in
the production of effect, but it should not be very servilely
adhered to, as it is apt to produce monotony. Some kinds
should never appear in masses; the white Portugal broom,
for instance, when go arranged, gives a limy tint to a gar-
den. Perhaps it is better that groups should contain a
predominance of one shrub, set off by a few others of a
contrasting figure or color, than that they should be en-
tirely homogeneous.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Common perennial flowers, whether strictly herbaceous
or bulbous, afford the principal materials for floral decora-
tion. Botany supplies, as it were, the colors for the pic-
ture, and gardening grinds and prepares them for use.
The painting is continually varying, and new shades are
arriving and departing in succession. The least considera-
tion of the subject will suggest the rule, that in planting
flowers they should be arranged according to their stature,
otherwise many of the most beautiful would be lost among
their taller compeers. The lowest plants should therefore

: ] 1*

250 FLOWER GARDEN.

stand next the margin of the border or parterre, and they
should increase in heighth at they go back. To produce a
full show, a profusion, just now amounting to crowding, is
requisite. The flower-plots should present a regular bank
of foliage and blossom, rising gradually from the front ;
but as this might convey an idea of too great precision, a
few staring plants, on the same principle as those employ-
ed in green-houses, should be thinly scattered over the
surface. These may be shrubs, or any tall showy plants,
such as Becconia cardata, Papaver bracteatum, Gladiolus
Byzantinus, or Lilium candidum.

Tall Perennials—LUilium giganteum, superbum, chal-
eedonicum. Asphodelus ramosus, or silver-rod. Phlox
pyramidalis. Monarda didyma, kalmiana, ciliata. Ve-
ronica sibirca, virginica. Campanulapyramidalis. Lych-
nis chalcedonica, fl. pl. or double scarlet lychnis; also,
single white and double white. Fritillaria imperialis, or
Crown imperial. Rudbeckia purpurea. Clematis integri-
folia. Chelone barbata, scarlet, and also white, with Che-
lone mexicana, and C. antwerpiensis. Delphinium grandi-
florum, fl. pl. or double larkspur. Aconitum Anthora,
lycoctonum, Chinense. Astelbe rivularis. Aceta race-
mosa. Asclepias incarnata. Aconitum versicolor. Del-
phinium amythestinum. Silphium perfoliatum and con-
junctum.

Plants to be kept under glass during Winter, and
planted out in May.—Uychnis (Agrostemma), Bungeana,
Pelargonium inquinans, cucullatum, and many hybrid va-
rieties of great beauty. Verbena varieties. Alonosa ele-
gans. Phlox Drummondii and bicolor. Lobelia formosa,
propinqua. Nierembergia intermedia. Lantana Sello-
viana, Gardoquia multiflora. Salvia patens. Malwa
Crowena. Cineraria, different species. Veronica speciosa.

‘

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 254

Tsotoma axillaris. Anagallis Monelli, grandiflora cceru-
lea, Phillipsii. Tyrachelium coruleum. Lobelia ignea,
Milleri, splendens violacea. Pentstemon cobsea, Murray-
anus. Gardoquia betonicoides. Agathe coelestis. Agera-
tum ccelestinum. Calceolaria, Prince Albert and flori-
bunda. Petunia, Prince Alfred-Ernest, Duchess of Kent,
and Simpsonii.

The management of color is more difficult. When the
long duration of the flowering season is considered, it will
be obvious that it is impossible to keep up the show of a
single border or plot for six months together, and conse-
quently, that much of the labor employed in mixing colors
is misspent, since plants, as they are commonly arranged,
come dropping into flower one after another: and even
where a certain number are in bloom at the same time,
they necessarily stand apart, and so the effects of contrast,
which can be perceived only among adjacent objects, are
entirely lost. ‘To obviate this defect, it has been recom-
mended that ornamental plants should be formed into four
or five separate suites of flowering, to be distributed over
the garden. Not to mention the more vernal flower, the
first might contain the flora of May; the second that of
June; the third that of July; and the fourth the tribes
of August and the following months. These plants should
be kept in separate compartments, arranged either singly
or in masses; but the compartments themselves should be
so intermingled as that no particular class should be en-
tirely absent from any one quarter of the garden. The
May parterres should, however, chiefly occur in the vicinity
of the green-house or conservatory, or, when these are ab-
sent, in a warm sunny situation. The flowerings of June
and July, as being highly showy, should occupy the most
conspicuous parts of the garden. The autumnal peren-

4

252 FLOWER GARDEN.

nials, not being so imposing, may retire into the more se-
cluded situations, as they are supplanted by the superior
brillianey of the annuals, which then fill the vacated beds
of florists’ flowers, or are scattered over the faded clumps
of May and June.

Before attempting to plant, the floriculturist would do
well to construct tables or lists of flowers, specifying their
respective times of flowering, their colors, and altitudes.
These tables, when skillfully used, would prevent mis-
takes, produce a greater facility of execution, and put the
colors nearly as much under control as they are on the
painter’s pallet. ‘lo diversify properly and mingle welk
together the reds, whites, purples, yellows, and blues, with
all their intervening shades, requires considerable taste
and powers of conception; but if success is not attained in
the first attempt, inaccuracies should be noted, and rectifi-
ed at the proper time next season. Certain series of colors
have been given, but these it is needless to mention, as it
is not very material whether the first flower in a row be
red or white. ‘The principal object is to preserve an agree-
able contrast ; and as at particular seasons a monotony of
tint prevails, it is useful at such times to be in possession
of some strong glaring colors. White, for instance, should
be much employed in July, to break the duller blues and
purples which then preponderate. The orange lily, too,
is very effective at that season, On the other hand, yel-
lows are suberabundant in autumn, and therefore reds and
blues should then be sought for, ‘

Besides mere vividness of color and elegance of form,
there are other qualities which render plants desirable in
the flower garden. Whoever has visited a botanic garden,
must have been sensible of an interest excited by the
curious structure of some plants, or by their rarity. Hyen

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 253

quaintness of form is deserving of attention: and on this
principle, Allium fistulosum (the common Welsh onion)
may be allowed to figure in a flower border. At the same
time, it must be admitted that such expedients should be
employed with reserve. No handsome plant should be re-
jected because it is common, nor any ill-favored one intro-
duced merely because it is scarce. The flower-gardener
should have a small nursery frame for the propagation of
the finer plants, so as to have at hand a stock, to be trans-
ferred into the borders as often as required.

Numerous specimens of such showy plants as Verbena
Brillii, atro-sanguinea, and Mont Blanc Phlox Drummondii,
with Scarlet Geraniums, Petunias, Salvias, and Fuchsias,
may easily be kept over winter, in a green-house or vinery,
in the very small pots called “thumbs,” ready to be
plunged in the open borders in May ; where they uniformly
bloom with much greater vigor and brilliancy than under
glass.

We shall here enumerate merely the names of a few of
the most ornamental flowers, adapted to the British flower
garden.”

Vernal Herbaceous Plants.—MWelleborus niger, lividus; Hranthus
hyemalis; Hepatica triloba, var.; Primula vulgaris var., veris, elatior, mar-
ginata, helvetica, nivalis, viscosa, integrifolia, cortusoides; Cortusa Ma-
‘thioli ; Soldanella alpina, Clusii; Viola odorata double-flowered, tricolor,
biflora, altaica ; Dodecatheon Meadia vars. ; Orobus vernus; Adonis ver-
nalis; Omphalodes verna; Corydalis lutea, longiflora ; Sanguinaria cana-
densis; Iris pumila; Anemone apennina, Halleri, pulsatilla ; Sisyrinchium

randifiorum.

Vernal Plants.—Gentiana verna, acaulis. Saxifraga oppositifolia.
Genista Scorpius. Hepatica Americana. Dondia epipactus. Orobus ver-

* Tt must be borne in mind by the American floriculturist that the times
and seasons here referred to ure those of England, and will be found not pre-
cisely to correspond with the precise times of planting in any one part of the
United States.

254 FLOWER GARDEN.

nus, fl. pl. Arabis grandiflora. Heterotropa asaroides. Nordmannia eor-
difolia. Aubretia deltoidea.

Vernal Bulbous Plants —Galanthus nivalis; Leucoium vernum; Cro-
cus, various species ; Cyclamen coum, vernum,; Corydalis bulbosa ; Ery-
thronium Dens canis; Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus, moschatus, odorus, Jon-
quilla, &c. ; Fritillaria imperalis, meleagris, persica; Gagea lutea; Tulipa
sylvestris ; Iris persica; Trillium grandiflorum, &c., Scilla verna, pracox,
bifolia, sibirica. Smilacina umbellata; Galanthus plicatus ; Sisyrinchium
grandiflorum; Leontice altaica; Trichonema bulbocodium; Erythronium
longifolium ; Symplocarpus foetidus, or skunk-flower; Ajax exigua, nana
major and minor ; Merendera caucasica; Scilla amoena; Saxifraga granu-
lata, fl. pl. Claytonia virginica.

Herbaceous Plants flowering in May.—Anemone narcissiflora, sylvestris,
dichotoma; Primula farinosa, scotica; Convallaria majalis; Uvularia
grandiflora, perfoliata: Phlox divaricata, subulata, setacea, &c.; Aspho-
delus luteus, ramosus; Draba, Aizoides ; Viola cornuta, obliqua ; Gentiana
verna, acaulis ; Lupinus polyphyllus; Gaillardia bicolor; Iris florentina,
cristata, &c.-- Bulbs: Leucoium estivum, Scilla non-scripta, italica, &e.
Hyacinthus monstrosus ; Muscari moschatum, botyroides, comosum; Nar-
cissus Bulbocodium, poeticus. Tiarella cordifolia ; Mitella diphylla; Aren-
aria yerna, and a variety with double flowers: Verbascuin Myconi. Aspe-
rula odorata, the sweet woodroof of our woods. Houstonia coerulea; Pul-
monaria azurea, officinalis. Trollius asiaticus; Symphytum asperrimum ;
Onosma echioides ; Aretia alpina; Androsace maxima ; Soldanella mon-
tana: Linnea borealis; Waldstenia geoides. Aquilegia canadensis and
venusta ; Dodecatheon Media and integrifolia ; Epimedium Muschianum
and violaceum. Spiraea venusta.

Bulbous.—Omithogalum umbellatum, pyrenaicum, narbonense, nutans ;
Leucojum vernum; Narcissus dubius, Tacetta ; Puschkinia scilloides ; Scil-
la esculenta, the quamash of the American Indians; §. japonica, campanu-
lata, and peruviana.

June.—Herbaceous Plants: Peeonia officinalis, albiflora, corallina, Hu-
mii, &c.; Dianthus, species; Geranium saugnnieum, Laneastriense, Walli-
chianum, striatum, &c.; Monarda didyma, Kalmiana; Papaver bractea-
tum; Saxifraga, species; Spiraea, species; Mimulus Harrisonii, atro-roseus;
moschatus; Trollius Americanus, europeeus; Lysimachia verticillata; Ve-
ronica latifolia, &c. ; Geum coccineum; Aconitum napellus, &c.; Potentilla
nepalensis, &e——-Bulbs: Allium Moly, Gladiolus psittacinus, communis;
Lilium Pomponium, bulbiferum, aurantiacum, monadelphum, penduliflorum,
eoncolor, &¢.; Iris Xiphium, Xiphioides; Myosotis alpestris ; Anchusa
italica ; Pentstemon Richardsonii ; Acteea spicata ; Koniga maritima; Alys-

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 255

sum saxatile; Smilacina stellata ; Polemonium cceruleum; Peonia, differ-
ent species; Mirabillis jalapa; Dianthus grandiflorus and splendidissimus ;
Delphinium Guthrianum; Phlox bicolor; Aconitum bicolor ; Aconitum
ovatum; Potentilla Mayana, atro-sanguinea, Hopwoodiana, and Thomasii ;
Ononis rotundifolia; Lychnis flos-cuculi, fl. alba pl. Aquilegia glauca,
fragrans, and Brownii.

Bulberous and Tuberous.—Cyackia liliastrum; Phalangium liliago;
Ornithogalum nutans Eremurus spectabilis; Uvularia sessilifolia, lanceo-
lata; Arum triphyllum; Arum Dracunculus and Virginianum; Asphodilus
albus and creticus ; Convallaria multiflora; Oxalis Bonariensis, alba, and
rubra; Scilla pratensis; Funkia Sieboldtii, lanceolata marginata, undulata
variegata,

July.— Herbaceous Plants: Phlox intermedia, and many other species
of that fine genus; Pentstemon, numerous species; (nothera, various spe-
cies; Campanula persicifolia, &c.; Morinia longiflora; Delphinum Bar-
lowii; Asclepias amcena, syriaca; Iris fulva, pallida, variegata; Gentiana
lutea, asclepiadea, cruciata, septemfida, &c.; Chelone obliqua, barbata,
Lyoni—Bulbs: Lilium martagon, canadense, tigrinum, superbum, &c. ;
Tigridia pavonia, Commelina ccelestis, Cyclamen hederefolium; Phlox
omniflora, P. Van Houttii, Princess Marian, new striped varieties; Pent-
stemon gentianoides, and var. coccinea, alba, and new blue. Calceolaria
integrifolia, rugosa, rubra, and many pretty hybrids between the Chili spe-
cies, Verbena, Whites, Ada, candidissima, Avalanche, and Queen of
Whites; Scarlets, Bakerii, Boule de feu, Chandlerii, and Englefieldii; Pur-
ples, Charlwoodii, Neillii, Emma, and Hudsonii; Crimsons, Defiance, Em-
peror, Louis Phillippe, and Stewartii; Salmon, Beauté Supréme, Aurora,
Sunbeam, and elegantissima; Rose, Coquette, excelsa, modesta, and Queen
of England. Lupinus grandifolius; Alstroemeria aurea; Tradescantia vir-
ginica, or blue spiderwort, and also varieties with white and with purple
flowers. Antirrhinum caryophilloides; Boule de feu, quadricolor coccinea.
Youngii, picta, superba, and tubiflora; Petunia, Kentish Beauty, Prince
Alfred-Ernest, Rising Sun, Hebe, and Attraction; Anemone vitifolia;
Gypsophila altissima; Geum coecineum; Cypella Herbertii; Stachys ino-
dora, speciosa ; Lobelia pyramidalis.

Autumnal Herbaceous Plants: Phiox decussata, pyramidalis, tardi-
flora, bicolor, &c.; Lobelia cardinalis, fulgens, splendens, &c.; Aster sibiri-
cus, amellus, pulcher, &c.; Solidago, several species; Aconitum japonicum,
volubile, variegatum; Gentiana; Saponaria.---Bulbs: Colchicum autum-
nale; Crocus nudiflorus, serotinus; Tritoma, pallida, media; Lavatera
arborea; Eupatorium cannabinum; Stevia salicifolia; Saponaria officinalis,
with double flowers; Nepeta longifiora ; Statice latifolia ; Salvia conferti-

256 FLOWER GARDEN.

flora ; Dahlias of many sorts; Astelbe rivularis ; Phlox elegans ; Campa-
nula lactiflora ; Gladiolus Gandavensis; Achillea Ptarmica, fl. plen; Aster
diffusus, floribundus, foliosus, paniculatus, and spectabilis ; Chelone obliqua ;
Coreopsis verticillata ; Eupatorium purpureum ; Helianthus giganteus and
macrophyllus ; Liatris, scariosa, spicata, macrostachya, and pyenostachya ;
Serratula coronata and centauroides.

It is with regret that we thus confine ourselves to a dry list of border
flowers ; but to classify and characterize them with anything like jus-
tice would require many pages. Within the last few years great acces-
sions of desirable plants have been made to our stores. The Lupines and
Pentstemons from Columbia River, the Verbenas and Calceolarias from
South America, and the Potentillas and Geraniums from Nepal, have in a
great measure changed the face of our flower gardens. While our riches
have multiplied, the difficulty as well as the necessity, of making a selection
has also increased.

Most herbaceous perennial plants are propagated by parting the roots, or
by cuttings ; but some more conveniently by the sowing of seed.

Biennial Plants.—Plants whose existence is limited to fwo years, in the
latter of which they flower and then decay, are called biennials. Many of
them possess considerable beauty ; and by their easy propagation, and rapid
growth, they afford aready means of decorating borders. The following
may be considered most worthy of notice ; Agrostemma coronaria; Antir-
rhinum majus; Hedysarum coronarium; Lunaria biennis; Campanula
media ; (nothera sinuata, biennis ; Verbascum formosum, Althea grandi-
flora, Scabiosa atro-purpurea, Mathiola simplicicaulis, Digitalis purpurea,
var. monstrosa or campanulata, Erysimum Perowfskianum. M{nothera
Drummondii ; Iberis Tenoriana ; Althea grandiflora ; Linaria tristis; Ma-
thiola incana; Cheiranthus fruiticulosus, with double flowers; Lunaria
biennis, or moonwort, the large silvery silicles of which are more ornamental
than its flowers; Frasera carolinensis; Ammobium alatum; Anchusa
italica ; Erytholeena conspicua ; French Honeysuckle. When a very de-
sirable variety of any plant is procured, such as the striped Antirrhinum
magus, or double varieties of Wall-flower, Sweet William, or Mule Pinks,
attention should be paid to the striking or cuttings during the summer, as
the only sure means of continuance.

Biennials are sown in beds in the end of spring, and are generally trans-
planted in the course of the autumn into the places where they are intended
to stand, that they may be confirmed before winter, and shoot up readily
into flower in tire following summer.

Annual Plants.—Many of the annual species, though of fugitive duration,
are possessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form. They are fur-

ANNUAL PLANTS. Qait

ther valuable from their pliability, so to speak, and the promptitude with
which they may be used. They are besides of easy culture, many requiring
nothing more than to have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow
and flourish. Annuals may be divided into three classes, the hardy, the
half-hardy, and the tender. The first class, as stated above, are sown at
once in the ground which they are to occupy ; the half-hardy succeed best
when aided at first by a slight hotbed, and then transplanted into the open
air; the tender are kept in pots, and treated as green-house or stove plants,
to which departments they properly belong. Tt is scarcely necessary to re-
mark, that the hardy and half-hardy sorts may be grown either in patches
or in beds, and are subjected to all the rules which regulate the disposition
of common border flowers.

Hardy Annuals.—Platystemon californicus; Collomia coccinea; Lepto-
siphon androsace and densiflorus; Viscaria oculata and Binneyii; Valeria-
nella congesta ; Eucharidium concinnum; Godetia viscosa, Lindleyana, and
multiflora ; Eutoca multiflora, viscida; Campanula speculum, Lorii; Ma-
lope trifida; Hibiscus trionum, bifrons; Nolana, various species; Papaver
somniferum, numerous yarieties; P. Rhoeas, varieties; Gilia capitata, tri-
color, splendens; Collinsia grandiflora; bicolor; Kaulfussia amelloides ;
Clarkia pulchella, elegans; (inothera rosea, rosea-alba, tenella, Roman-
zovii; Senecio elegans; Mathiola annua (ten-week stock); Aster sinensis
(China aster); Lupinus, several species; Nemophila insignis, atomaria,
eramboides, discoidalis; Eschscholtzia californica, crocea; Limnanthes
grandiflora; Calandrina grandiflora; Bartonia aurea; Colinsia bicolor,
verna, heterophylla; Clintonia pulchella, elegans; Malope grandiflora ;
Leptosiphon luteus; Platystemon californicum; Collomia grandiflora ;
Coreopsis diversifolia,; Sanvitalia procumbens ; Phacelia congesta, tenace-
tifolia; Caliopsis astrosanguinea ; Centaurea Americana ; Lasthena cali-
fornica ; Madia elegans ; Lupinus bicolor, elegans ; Helichrysum mecran-
thum; Adonis autumnalis ; Iberis umbellata ; Alyssum, several species ;
Linaria, various species; Delphinium Ajacis, consolida ; Lavatera trimes-
tris ; Sphenogyne speciosa; Cladanthus arabicus; Schizanthus Priestii ;
Eucaridium grandiflorum; Papaver Marsillii; Eutoca Wrangeliana, diva-
ricata, and Menziesii; Silene armeria ; Rudbeckia amplexicaulis.

Half-Hardy Annuals.—Callistema hortense ; Lopezia racemosa; Rho-
danthe Manglesii; Tagetes patula (French marigold), erecta (African
marigold), racemosa, &c.; Zinnia elegans, pauciflora; Xeranthemum an-
nuum, Helichrysum fulgidum, Chrysanthemum carinatum ; Schizanthus
pinnatus, porrigens, Grahami, Hookeri ; Salpiglossis atro-purpurea, picta ;
Petunia nyctaginiflora; Mirabilis Jalapa ; Mesembryanthemum crystalli-
num, tricolor, white and red; Brachycoma ibeirdifolia ; Clintonia elegans,

258 FLOWER GARDEN.

pulchella ; Phlox Drummondii, with its varieties; Campanula stricta ; Tpo-
mopsis elegans; Argemone grandiflora ; Didiscus cceruleus ; Ipomopsis
elegans ; Hunnemannia fumariefolia; Ageratum Mexicanum ; Limnan-
thus Douglassii ; Blumenbachia incana, multifida ; Heliophila araboides ;
Hibiscus Africanus ; Cosmus tenuifolius ; Calandrina discolor, grandiflora ;
Loasa tricolor, insignis, lateritia ; Anagallis Indica, lilacina ; Salpiglossis
straminea ; Amaranthus caudatus.

Tender Annuals.—Impatiens Balsamina, Browallia elata, Celosia cristata
(cockscomb), Gomphrzena globosa ; Solanum melongena ; Tpomeea Quamo-
elit ; Mimosa pudici (humble plant), sensitiva (sensitive plant). Thunber-
gia alata; Hedysarum gyrans, or moving plant, which, in our hot-houses,
often endure for two seasons (as do also Mimosa pudica and sensitiva) ; Bro-
wallia grandiflora; Cleome rosea, heterophylla; Scyphanthus elegans,
Loasa Pentlandica ; Martynia proboscidea ; Lisianthus Russellianus.

We have here enumerated only a small selection of spe-
cies,* out of a multitude which is continually receiving ac-
cessions. A good many of the sorts mentioned have been
introduced during the last twenty years; and we doubt not
that, in an equal period from the present, many more will
come into notice.

Before leaving this part of the subject, it may be proper
to mention that it is now the practice of some florists to
grow and treat as annuals, or rather as biennials, great
quantities of the more hardy Pelargonia, Verbenz, Salvize,
Fuchsie, Petunise, and other genera. Grown in moderate
sized pots, they are kept in reserve in frames or cold vine-
ries during winter. About the end of May, or as soon as
there is no longer any apprehension of injury from frost,
the plants are taken out of the pots and plunged into the
open ground, in any warm sunny spot or clump in the flower
garden. If the stems be long or naked, they are pegged to
the earth. Towards the middle of July they begin to grow
vigorously, and in August or September present, in luxuri-
ance at least, a better specimen of their native vegetation

* Additional listsin Appendix.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 259

than we see elsewhere in our gardens. Upon the approach
of frost they are, in general, left to their fate, as it is easier
to propagate new ones than to preserve the old. These
plants, with some of the fine new annuals, and the gorgeous
Dahlias, give a splendor to the autumnal flower garden
which in former times it did not possess.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

This technical appellation has been restricted to certain
flowers, which have been especial favorites with florists, and
have consequently received a large share of their attention.*
Though possessed of great individual beauty, few of them
_ are calculated to make a show at a distance, and the
arrangements requisite for their culture do not harmonize
well with the general disposition of a flower garden. It is
therefore desirable, particularly when considerable refine-
ment is aimed at, that a separate garden, or a separate sec-
tion of the garden, should be set apart for their culture.
The more robust or less valuable varieties, however, which
are often as ornamental as the most esteemed, may be intro-
duced into the general parterres. We shall notice the most
considerable, in the order in which they naturally attract
attention.

The Hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis, one of the most

* The finest new varieties of florists’ flowers, as well as novelties in
the strictly botanical department, are figured and described in Harrison’s
Florticultural Cabinet, a cheap monthly periodical, which has a vast circula-
tion in England. While the letter-press is rather deficient in botanical pre-
cision, and the engraving sometimes inferior in style of embellishment, it ix
certain that much useful information may be gleaned from the work, both as
to new varieties and superior modes of culture ; and it is but fair to add
that the work has been greatly improved of late years.

260 FLOWER GARDEN.

beautiful and fragrant of the spring flowers, is a native of
the Levant, where it occurs abundantly, in form not unlike
our common harebell. It has long been a favorite in the
Kast; but has been brought to its present artificial perfec-
tion in Holland, chiefly since the beginning of last century.
Many years ago it was successfully grown in the vicinity of
Edinburgh, by James Justice, F. R. S., one of the most
ingenious horticulturists of his time; but it must be con-
fessed that, in the culture of this flower, the British florists
have never attained to the eminence of the Dutch, principally,
however, as is alleged by some, from want of attention and
painstaking. According to Miller, the catalogues of the
Haarlem florists used to enumerate 200 sorts, some of which
sold as high as £200 a bulb; they are now less numerous,
and much less expensive.

Hyacinths are either single, semidouble, or double, and
exhibit a great variety of tint. In a fine flower the stalk
should be tall, strong, and upright; the blossoms numer-
ous, large, and suspended in a horizontal direction; the
whole flower having a compact pyramidal form, with the
uppermost blossom quite erect ; plain colors should be clear
and bright; and strong colors are preferable to pale; when
colors are mixed, they should blend with elegance.

The hyacinth delights in a rich, light sandy soil; and it is
chiefly owing to the want of these qualities in his composts
that the British florist fails in the growth of this beautiful
plant. The Dutch compost, as given by the late Hon. and
Rev. Mr. Herbert in the London Hortic. Transactions, vol.
iv., is the following: One-third coarse sea or river sand;
one-third rotten cow-dung without litter; and one-third
leaf mould. The natural soil is removed to the depth of
at least two feet, and the vacant space filled up with com-
post, previously prepared and well mixed. These materi,

HY ACINTHS. 261

als retain their qualities for six or seven years, but the
Dutch do not plant hyacinths upon the same place for two
years successively. In the alternate years they plant it
with narcissus or crocus. We may mention that, in one of
the finest beds of hyacinths ever seen in Scotland, a con-
siderable portion of the soil was composed of s/eech, a sort
of sandy and marly deposition from the ooze on the shores
of the’ Forth.

According to Mr. Main, St. Crispin’s day, the 25th of
October, is the best to plant the bulbs. They are generally
arranged in rows, eight inches asunder, there being four
rows in each bed; or, if more convenient, they may be
placed in rows across the bed. The bulbs are sunk about
three or four inches deep, and it 1s recommended to put a
small quantity of clean sand below and all around each.
As the roots are liable to be injured by frost, it is usual to
cover the beds with decayed tanners’ bark, with litter, or
with awnings. The first may be considered the neatest
during winter, but an awning is nearly indispensable in
spring, when the lingering colds prove exceeding hurtful to
the young flower-stems. The awning may be made of
coarse sheeting or duck. Ag the flower-stems appear, they
are tied to little rods to keep them upright and preserve
them from accident. In order to perfect the colors, the
rays of the sun are admitted in the morning or in the eve-
ning, but the glare of mid-day and the cold of night are
both excluded. When the season of blossom is over, the
awning is removed, or only replaced to keep off heavy
rains. Much of the success, in the culture of this flower,
depends on the subsequent management of the bulbs. It
is the practice in Holland, about a month after the bloom, »
or when the tips of the leaves assume a withered appear-
ance, to dig up the roots, and, cutting off the stem and the

862 FLOWER GARDEN.

foliage within half an inch of the bulb, but leaving the
fibres untouched, to lay the bulbs sideways on the ground,
covering them with half an inch of dry earth. After three
weeks, they are again taken up, cleaned, and removed to
the store room. In this country, it is more common to
allow them to stand till the leaves be withered, and then to
dig them up at once. In the store-room the roots should
be kept dry, well aired, and apart from each other.

Where forcing is practiced, a few hyacinths may be
forced into deep flower-pots filled with light earth, and,
when coming into flower, transferred to the green-house,
which they enliven at the most dead season of the year.
In chambers, they are grown in water-glasses made for the
purpose; or, with still greater advantage, in boxes filled
with damp hypnum-moss.

New varieties of hyacinths are procured by sowing the
seed; but this is a tedious process, and seldom followed
in this country. The established sorts are propagated by
offsets or small bulbs, which form at the base of the parent
bulb. Almost all the hyacinths cultivated in this country
are imported from Holland, and the quantity of roots an-
nually introduced must be very great.

The Tulip, Tulipa Gesneriana, is a native of the Hast,
whence it was introduced into Hurope about the middle of
the sixteenth century. Gaudy as it is, it has no proper
corolla, but only a calyx of six colored sepals. About the
year 1635, the culture of the tulip was very engrossing ;
and, indeed, the rage for possessing choice sorts had become
so great in Holland as to give rise to a strange species of
gambling, known to the collectors of literary and scientific
anecdotes by the name of Tulipo-mania, which has tended
to bring unmerited discredit on this fine flower. At pre-
sent, the finer tulips are mostly of moderate price, and

THE TULIP. 263

though not to be met with in every garden, have yet some
zealous cultivators.

There are some varieties, such as the early Duc Van
Thol, yellow, white, and red; the Clarimond, the Parrots,
and the Double Tulips, which belong, properly speaking,
to the general cultivator. The genuine tulip-grower des-
pises these, and will not suffer them to enter his select bed.
In England, the florists’ tulips are arranged under four
classes. -1. The Bzzarres, which have a yellow ground
marked with purple or scarlet. 2. The Byblemens witha
white ground, marked with violet or purple. 3. The Roses,
with a white ground, marked with rose or cherry color.
4. The Se/f or Plain-colored tulips, which are of one uni-
form color, and are chiefly valued as breeders. The byble-
men class includes most of those tulips which are held in
high estimation in Britain; but the rose or cherry colored
are perhaps the most pleasing.

The properties of a fine late tulip, as specified by Mr.
Hogg, are the following, somewhat abridged. The stem
should be strong, erect, thirty inches high : the flower large,
of six petals (sepals), which should proceed almost hori-
zontally at first, and, turning up; should form an almost
perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather widest at top.
The three exterior petals should be rather larger than the
three interior ones: the limbs of the petals should be
rounded, and freed from every species of serrature. The
ground color of the flower at the bottom should be clear
white or clear yellow; and the various rich colored stripes,
which are the principal ornament of a fine tulip, should be
regular, bold, and distinct at the margin, and terminate in
fine broken points, elegantly feathered or penciled. There
are other refinements upon which florists are not quite
agreed: and it must be confessed that their standard of

264 FLOWER GARDEN,

excellence is somewhat factitious; for, to an uninstructed
eye, though practiced in the contemplation of other sorts
of beauty, a tulip, which by them is looked upon as worth-
less, will often appear as fine as the choicest variety in the
select bed. Fine tulips are so numerous that it is scarcely
possible to name the most desirable. Among the bizarres,
the King, Polyphemus, and Hverard, are highly prized,

Tulips prosper in a prepared compost of light turfy
soil, richly manured with well-rotted cow-dung. ‘Twenty
inches depth of soil should be removed, and the vacant
space filled up with compost. Some use alternate layers
of light soil and cow-dung. The bed should be filled up
with compost about the middle of October, and in a fort-
night, when the soil has subsided, the bulbs are planted in
rows, distant seven or eight inches, and at the depth: of
about three inches. A little clean sand may be put
around the bulbs, After planting, the bed may be covered
over with tan, as in the case of hyacinths. In spring, it is
necessary to shield the leaves and flower-stalks from frost,
and also from heavy rains ; and when in bloom, the flowers
should be sheltered from the sun’s rays, by which they are
speedily injured. A canvas awning, so mounted on a
frame that it can be easily withdrawn and replaced, is re-
quisite for every fine collection. The tulip is often
regarded as scentless; but this is a mistake, for when con-
centrated under the awning, the odor is very perceptible.
After the sepals have fallen, the seed-vessels are broken
off close by the stem, to prevent the plant from exhausting
itself in perfecting seed, and to direct its energies to the
forming of the new bulb. When the leaves have withered,
the bulbs are taken up, dried, and stored, until the plant-
ing season come round,

Tulips are readily propagated by offsets, which are taken

THE RANUNCULUS. 265

off from the parent bulbs, and nursed in separate beda till
they be full grown. New varietics are raised from seed ;
they are from five to seven years old before they flower,
and, if raised from promiscuous seed, they often turn out
worthless. Karly in the eighteenth century, the distin-
guished Scottish cultivator, Justice (already mentioned as
a most successful cultivator of hyacinths), was eminently
successful in raising fine seedling tulips; and some skillful
florists of our own day, such as Mr. Oliver, of Edinburgh,
succeed in breaking their seedlings into colors equal to the
choicest byblomens of Holland. They save the seeds from
the first-rate sorts, the stigma of the intended parent flower
having been fertilized with the pollen of some other excel-
lent variety, Seedling tulips, it may be remarked, present
this anomaly for the first two or three years, that they
form their new bulbs several inches below the old ones, so
that an inexpericnoed cultivator is sometimes apt to miss
them at the time of lifting. |

The Ranunculus (K. Asiaticus) is, like many other of
the florists’ flowers, a native of the Levant, where it is a
favorite of the Turks. It has sported into innumerable
varieties, and thoge now in cultivation in England are
mostly of British origin, The plant is of small stature,
furnished with decomposite leaves, and rising from # root
formed by a bundle of little tubers.

According to the canons of floral criticism, the proper-
ties of a fine double ranunculus are the following: The
stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to ten
inches high, supporting a large, well-formed blossom at
least two inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals,
the largest at the outside, and gradually diminishing in
size as they approach the centre of the flower, which should

he well filled up with them. The blosgom should be of a
12

266 FLOWER GARDEN.

hemispherical form; its component petals imbricated,
neither too closely nor too much separated, and having
rather a perpendicular than a horizontal direction. The
petals should be broad, and have perfectly entire well-
rounded edges; their colors should be dark, clear, rich, or
brilliant, either consisting of one color throughout, or be
otherwise varicusly diversified on an ash, white, sulphur,
or fire-colored ground, or regularly striped, spotted, or mot-
tled, in an elegant manner.

The ranunculus requires a stronger and moister soil than
most other flowers. Maddock prefers a fresh, strong, rich
loam. Hogg recommends a fresh loam, with a considerable
portion of rotted cow or horse-dung.

The Rey. Mr. Williamson (/ort. Trams., vol. iv.) uses
a stiff clay loam, with a fourth of rotton dung. “ The
bed should be dug from eighteen inches to two feet deep,
and not raised more than four inches above the level of the
walks, to preserve the moisture more effectually: at about
five inches below the surface should he placed a stratum of
two-year-old rotten cow-dung, mixed with earth, six or
eight inches thick ; but the earth above this stratum, where
the roots are to be placed, should be perfectly free from
dung, which would prove injurious if nearer. The fibres
will draw sufficient nourishment at the depth above men-
tioned; but if the dung were placed deeper, it would not
receive so much advantage from the action of the air.”
Other florists have recommended to put the manure at
least two feet and a half below the surface of the earth.
The principal object, however, is to maintain throughout
the bed a genial moisture; and this is to be done by avoid-
ing all hot gravelly earths, and particularly soils that are
apt to cake. The tubers are planted late in autumn, or
early in spring, in rows five or six inches apart, and three

THE ANEMONE. 267

or four inches separate in the rows. They should be so
close that the foliage shall cover the surface of the bed, for
in this way a salutary degree of shade and moisture is pre-
served. The autumn-planted roots must be sheltered from
frost by old tan or hooped mattings. When in flower, the
plants are covered with an awning. When the leaves
wither, the roots are taken up, dried, and stored,

Scarcely any florists’ flower is more readily propagated
from seed, or sooner repays the care of the cultivator. The
seed is obtained sparingly from semidouble sorts, which are
often of themselves very beautiful flowers. It is generally
sown in boxes in autumn or spring; but it may also be
sown with success in the open ground. The young plants
flower, often in the second, and always in the third, year.

The Anemone of the flower garden includes two species,
Anemone coronaria, a native of the Levant, and A. hor-
tensis, a native of Italy. These have long shared the at-
tention of the florist, and in his arrangements have generally
been associated with the ranunculus, resembling it in its
natural affinities and mode of culture. ~The single and
semidouble flowers are considered nearly as fine as the
double ones. ‘The sorts are numerous, but at present are
seldom distinguished by names. In a fine double anemone,
the stem should be strong, erect, and not less than nine
inches high. The flower should be at least two and a half
inches in diameter, consisting of an exterior row of large
well-rounded petals, in the form of a broad shallow cup,
the interior part of which should contain a number of small
petals, mixed with stamens, imbricating each other. The
colors should be clear and distinct when diversified in the
same flower, or striking and brilliant when there is only
one tint. Of late years, anemones remarkable for the mag-
nitude of their flowers and the brilliancy of their hues have

268 FLOWER GARDEN.

becn imported from Holland, particularly by Mr. Lawson,
of Edinburgh.

The soil and culture are so nearly the same as in the
ranunculus that it is needless to specify them. The plant
continues longer in the flower, and the leaves often remain
so long green that it is difficult to find a period of inaction
in which to take up the roots. It has been recommended
that, as soon as the bloom is over, the bed should be
screened from rain by mattings until the leaves wither. As
the tuberous roots are rather brittle, they require consider-
able care in handling. Anemones are easily raised from
the seed. A bed of single anemones, it may be remarked,
is a valuable addition to a flower garden, as it affords, in a
warm situation, an abundance of handsome and often bril-
liant spring flowers, almost as clearly as the snow-drop or
the crocus.

When the bloom of the hyacinth, tulip, ranunculus, or
anemone, is over, the beds should be filled up with small
showy annuals, which will soon restore their gay aspect.
These annuals are to be raised on a hot bed, and kept in it,
or in patches in a piece of réserve ground, till wanted.

The Narcissus is an extensive genus, including a great
many interesting species and varieties. It belongs, how-
ever, rather to the botanico-florist than to the florist proper ;
but, as it contains many plants of great elegance, it ought
to receive more general attention. The Polyanthus Nar-
cissus (N. Tazetta) affords the varieties which are yearly
cultivated by florists, the bulbs of which are yearly im-
ported in quantities from Holland. These prosper in a
light soil, containing a little well-rotted dung. The roots
should not be stirred more frequently than once in three
years; and this remark applies also to Narcissus Jonquila
and odorus, the small and large jonquil, of which fragrant

THE IRIS. 269

plants there should be beds in every flower garden. N.
Tazetta, like the hyacinth, may also be grown either in pots
or in water-glasses.

Iris.—The species which peculiarly appertain to the
florist are, I. Xiphium and Xiphioides, of both of which
there are many beautiful varieties. They are of easy cul-
ture, succeeding in almost any kind of soil, and requiring
to be moved only once in three or four years. The roots
are not improved by being kept out of the ground ; and
perhaps the best method is, upon taking them up and free-
ing them from their shaggy skins, to replant them imme-
diately.

Besides these, may be mentioned the Persian Iris (I.
Persica), a low bulbous-rooted plant, with delicate blue or
violet-colored flowers, and some degree of fragrance. It is
extensively cultivated by the Dutch, from whom bulbs are
annually procured. It is sometimes grown in water, but
oftener in pots of nearly pure sand. When planted out, it
requires to be guarded from frosts and heavy rain. The
Snake’s-head Iris (I. tuberosa) is also a fragrant species,
and is more hardy than the preceding. Mr. Denson, who
has been very successful in the culture of this plant, recom-
mends, in Gard. Mag., vol. viii., that it should be allowed
to stand two or three years in succession on the same spot:
when, “in July, take it up and divide the tubers, planting
them, soon as dug up, six inches deep in a compost formed
of half-friable mould, or old hotbed dung, rotted to the
consistence of soil. Let the situation be a dry bed or bor-
der, at the base of a wall with a southern aspect, and plant
the tubers close to the wall, or only a few inches from it.”
The Chalcedonian Iris (I. susiana) is the most magnificent
species of the genus, and is well worth the labor of the cul-
tivator. Its stalk, seldom a foot high, is surmounted by a

270 FLOWER GARDEN.

splendid corolla, the petals of which are nearly as broad as
the hand, and are of purple or black ground, delicately
striped with white. It prefers a loamy soil and a sunny
exposure, and must be guarded from moisture and frosts in
winter. For these three species, Mr. Loudon recommends
the protection of a frame.

There are many other species which are worthy of a
place in a select flower garden, and, when well grouped in
a peaty earth, form an agreeable appendage to a parterre.
Of these, we may mention the low-creeping I. cristata and.
pumila, the more aspiring prismatica, flexuosa, virginica, sor-
dida, variegata, and Swertii, the taller Sibirica, triflora, and
ochroleuea, the broad-leaved Florentina, Germanica, and
Sambucina, and the stately pallida, which for simple elegance,
is not outshone by any of its compeers. This beautiful family
was zealously cultivated by the late amiable David Falconar,
Ksq., of Carlowrie, who introduced some of its most inter-
esting members to the horticultural world in Scotland.

The Lily.—Of the genus Lilium there are many species,
some of which have not been exhibited to the extent of
their capabilities in the flower garden. The old white Lily
(L. Candidum), after supplying the poets with so much
imagery, has retired into the modest station of a common
border flower. The flaunting Orange-Lily (L. bulbiferum)
and the Turk’s Cap (L. Martagon), may occupy the same
place. The scarlet Martagon (LL. Chalcedonicum) is worthy
of more care, as being more beautiful and more tender. It
does not relish being disturbed, and it dislikes peat. On
the contrary, the splendid Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum), which
propagates rapidly by auxiliary bulbs, succeeds best in
peaty soil. The same remark applies to the rarer L. cana-
dense and superbum (magnificent species), as well as to L,
concolor, Pennsylvanicum, and others, which ought to be

od

THE DAHLIA, OR GEORGINA 271

more common ip our gardens. LL. Japonicum, longiflorum,
and. lancifolium, in which the genus attains its greatest
magnificence, unfortunately require a finer climate than
ours, and some bulbs of these should, therefore, be grown im
pots under glass, but ethers may be risked in a sheltered
border.

The Gladioh or corn-flags are extremely ornamental.
The Cardinal Lily (Gladiolus cardinalis) well deserves the
name of superb: when seen in flower in masses, the effect
is truly brilliant. In order to success, it must be grown in
tufts, and the tufts should be left undisturbed for successive
years; “the old skins of the decayed bulbs permitting the
wet to drain away, and preventing the earth from lying
close and heavy on the new bulbs,” as observed by the
late eminent Mr. Herbert. A little litter of any sort
thrown over the bed affords sufficient protection during the
winter.

Omitting Crocus, Fritivlaria, and other bulbous genera,
which are sometimes treated ag florists’ flowers, we proceed
to one of the prime ornaments of the autumnal flower
garden, the Dahlia, or Georgina, as it is called by some
writers.

The Dahia (of which there are two principal species,
D. variabilis and coccinea) is a native of Mexico, from which
it was introduced in 1789, but afterwards lost by our cul-
tivators, It was re-introduced in 1804; but it was not
till ten years later that it was generally known in our gar-
dens. The first plants were single, of a pale purple color,
and though interesting, as affording a new form of floral
ornament, they by no means held forth a promise of the
infinite diversity of tint and figure exhibited by their
double-flowered successors. At present the varieties are
endJess, each district of the country possessing suites of its

272 FLOWER GARDEN.

own, and cultivators occasionally raising at one sowing @
dozen kinds which they think worthy of preservation. The
results have been most propitious to the flower garden,
from which, indeed, the Dahlia could now nearly as ill be
spared, as the potato from the kitchen garden.

The varieties of Dahlia may be classed under tke follow-
ing heads: 1. The Commen or Camellia form, under
which the double sorts first appeared. This is by far the
most numerous Class, and perhaps the most beautiful. The
dwarf sorts are in most repute. 2. The Anemene-flowered,
having a radius of large petals, and a central disk of smaller
ones, somewhat like the double anemone. 3. G'éobe-flow-
ered, having small globular flowers, which are extremely
double. They possess great intensity of color, and, rising
for the most part about the leaves, make generally as
striking an appearance as those of a more massive efflores-
cence.

In a fine Dahlia the flower should be fully double, always:
filling the centre; the florets should be entire or nearly so,
regular in their disposition, each series overlapping the
other backwards: they may be either plain or quilled, but
never distorted: if, instead of being reflexed, the florets
are recurved, the flower will be more symmetrical. The
peduncles ought to be strong enough to keep the blossoms
erect, and long enowgh to show the flowers above the leaves..
Bright and deep velvety colors are most admired.

Dahlia competitions now excite great interest in the
floricultural world; almost every considerable town having
its annual show, when gold and silver medals, cups, and
other pieces of plate, are keenly contended for; private
amateurs and professional cultivators competing respec-
tively among themselves. Fine flowers have become so
numerous that it were a hopeless task to offer a list,

THE DAHLIA, OR GEORGINA. 273

Among the most highly prized in England at the present
day may only be mentioned, Dodd’s Mary, Duchess of
Richmond, Essex Rival, Widhall’s Conductor, Suffolk
Hero, Ruby, Sussex Rival, Marquis of Lothian, Cox’s
Yellow, Grace Darling, Climax, Sir John Franklin, Sir F.
Bathurst, Magnificent, Yellow Perfection, Snow- flake,
Elizabeth, &c., &c.

New dividtion are, of course, procured from seed; the
utmost attention being paid to the parentage and the
crossing of flowers of different colors. If sown in flower-
pots, and aided by a little heat, the seedlings, speedily
planted out, will flower the first season. Established vari-
eties are propagated by dividing the large tuberous roots;
but, in doing so, care must be taken to have an eye to
each portion of tuber, otherwise it will not grow. Some-
times shoots of rare varieties are grafted on the roots of
others. A good method, now generally practised, is to
take cuttings close from the roots of the plants, as soon as
they shoot up in the beginning of summer, and to strike
them in small flower-pots. They strike freely, and the
plants generally show flower during the same season.

Dahlias succeed best in an open situation, and in rich
loam; but there is scarcely any garden soil in which they
will not thrive, if well manured. They are, however, in-
jured by being repeatedly planted on the same spot.
They may stand singly like common border flowers, but
have the most imposing appearance when seen in masses
arranged according to their stature. Old roots often
throw up a multitude of stems, which render thinning
necessary. As the plants increase in height, they should
be furnished with strong stakes, by being tied to which
they may withstand high winds. Dahlias generally con-

tinue to show their flowers till they be interrupted by frost
12”

274 FLOWER GARDEN.

in the end of autumn. The roots are then taken up, dried,
and stored in a cellar, or some other place where they may
be secured from frost and moisture. Early in the spring,
the tubers of the finer varieties are placed among leaf-
mould on a hotbed; or in boxes in a stove, to start them,
as the gardeners speak. When thus forwarded, they begin
to flower in July, or six weeks earlier than usual; and
cuttings taken off from such started tubers in April are
sure to form flowering plants in September.

The Auwrtcuda (Primula Auricula) is a native of the
Alps and the Caucasus. It has long been an inmate of
our gardens, and has generally been a favorite with those
florists whose means and appliances are of a limited kind.
Some of the most successful cultivators at present are
among the operatives in the vicinity of Manchester and
Paisley.

Besides the double varieties, which have never been in
much repute, Auriculas are classed under two divisions :
the Se/fs or plain-colored, and the variegated or painted
sorts. Professed florists confine their attention to the
latter: it must, however, be confessed, that their criteria
of fine flowers are often arbitrary, and that, although many
of their favorites are examples of undoubted beauty, the
eye of the uninitiated would generally prefer the simpler
hues of the self-colored flowers.

The auricula, though now almost wholly an artificial
plant, and strangely transformed from its original appear-
ance, still inclines to a moist soil and shady situation. The
florists’ varieties are grown in rich composts, for the pre-
paration of which numberless receipts have been given.
We quote that of Mr. Hogg, of Paddington, an expe-
rienced grower: “One barrow of rich yellow loam, or
fresh earth from some meadow, or pasture-land, or com-

THE AURICULA. 275

moon, with the turf well-rotted; one barrow-load of leaf-
mould, another of cow-dung, two years old at least; and
one peck of river, not sea sand. For strong plants in-
tended for exhibition, add to the same composition, as a
stimulant, a barrowful of well-decayed night-soil, with the
application of a liquid manure before the top-dressing in
February, and twice more, but not oftener, in March. A
portion of light, sandy, peat-earth may be added, as a safe
and useful ingredient, particularly for plants kept in low
damp situations.”

Auriculas may be propagated from seed. It is to be
sown in January or February in boxes, which are kept
under cover, and exposed only to the rays of the morning
sun. When seed has been saved from the finer sorts, the
operation is one of considerable nicety, as it not unfre-
quently happens that the best seedlings are at first excced-
ingly weak. The judicious grower never neglects these,
but rather nourishes them with double care. They gene-
rally flower in the second or third year; and the florist is
fortunate who obtains three or four good sorts out of a
large sowing. ‘The established varieties are increased by
dividing the roots, an operation which is performed in
July or in the beginning of August.

Fine Auriculas are grown in pots about five or six
inches in diameter; the longer or deeper, so much the
better. These are kept in frames, or stages, constructed
for the purpose. For winter, perhaps, there is nothing
better than a common hotbed frame, as this admits of an
exact adjustment of air and temperature, things to which
attention is absolutely necessary, as the plants approach ~
the flowering season in the end of March. After the
bloom is over, or in the beginning of June, the pots may
be placed on stages slightly clevated and facing the north. »

276 FLOWER GARDEN.

Though not absolutely necessary, it is useful to have the
power of sheltering them from long-continued rains. Is
is usual every year to shift the plants, shortening the roots
and giving them a large portion of new soil, soon after the
flowers have decayed. For more detailed information on
this subject, we may refer to the well-known treatises of
Maddock and Hogg.

The Polyanthus is supposed to be a seminal variety of
Primula vulgaris, and is much cultivated by some florists.
Like the auricula, it has sported into many hundred yari-
eties. It is not necessary to give a detailed account of its
culture, as it scarcely differs from that of the auricula.
The polyanthus, however, is the hardier of the two, and
seldom perishes from cold. It may be mentioned that
there are several beautiful double varieties of the common
Primrose, both white and dark purple, which are deserving
of a place in every garden.

The whole genus Primula merits the attention of the
curious cultivator. P. helvetica and nivalis adorn the
flower borders in spring with their abundant trusses of
blossom. P. marginata, when planted in a shady situa-
tion, is equally lavish of its pale and deheately beautiful
flowers. P. viscosa and integrifolia, with their intense
colors, are the ornaments of the alpine frame; or, with P.
longifolia, farinosa, and Scotica, may be plunged into the
margin of the American border. A supply, however,
should be kept in pots. Besides these, we might name P.
cortusoides, Pallasii, Palinuri, and others. The curious
P. verticellata, and the splendid P. sinensis, are inmates
of the green-house. Of this last there is a white variety,
and also a double-flowered variety. ‘The florist of anaEle
taste will love them all.

_ The Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) has pe been

THE CARNATION. 277

a favorite flower, not only for the beauty but for the
delightful fragrance of its blossoms. It is a native of
Germany, and it is occasionally found in an apparently
wild state in England. The cultivation of it, however, is
by no means easy, but calls forth all the resources of the
florist. The varieties, which are very numerous, have been
arranged under three heads: Flakes, having two colors,
with their stripes running quite through and along the
petals; Bizarres, irregularly spotted, and striped with not
fewer than three colors; Picotees, spotted, with serrated or
fringed petals. Mr. Hogg, who has written a treatise ex-
pressly on this flower, has given a catalogue of nearly 350
sorts.

Carnations are propagated by layers or pipings: the
former method is most practiced, but with some sorts
piping, it is said, should be preferred. Layering is per-
formed when the plant is in full bloom. Proper shoots
are selected; a few of the lower leaves are then removed ;
an incision is made a little below a suitable joint, passing
up to the joint, but not through it; the shoot is then peg-
ged down and covered with some fresh soil, the tip being
left above ground. Layers are generally found to be root-
ed in about a month after the operation has been perform-
ed. Pipings are little cuttings, separated at a joint, and
planted thickly under bell-glasses on a slight hotbed.
They require great attention, and are precarious in their
success, but form excellent plants.

Numerous directions have been given respecting com-
posts for carnations. We abridge those of Hogg, who is
the principal authority in this matter. Take three bar-
rows of loam, one and a half of garden mould, two of horse-
dung, and one of coarse sand; let these be mixed, and
thrown into a heap, and turned over two or three times in

278 FLOWER GARDEN.

the winter, particularly in frosty weather. Towards the
end of November a barrow-load of lime is added while hot,
to aid in the decomposition of the soil, and destroy worms.
Yor the varieties which are liable to sport, he recommends
a poorer compost.

The more robust carnations are planted out in beds or
singly in the flower garden; but the finer and more tender
sorts are grown in pots of about a foot in diameter. The
time of potting is about the end of March. When the
flower-stems show themselves, they are furnished with rods,
to which they are tied as they lengthen, to prevent their
being broken by the wind or other accident. When the
plants begin to expand their blossoms, they are removed
to a stage calculated to exhibit their beauties. Some
florists place ligatures around the flower-buds, in order to
prevent irregular bursting, and even arrange the petals, by
removing distortions with fine-pointed scissors.

New varieties are raised from seed. The seed of the
hardier double or semidouble sorts often affords a very
beautiful bed of flowers, and should not be neglected by
those who have the command of extensive flower gardens.

The Pink is considered by botanists as merely a variety
of the preceding. It is, however, very distinct in its cha-
racter and constant in its habits. It is one of the me-
chanic’s flowers, and is cultivated most extensively in the
neighborhood of some of the manufacturing towns. Its
simple elegance does credit to the taste of those who select it
for their favorite ; and it deserves a place in the garden of
the highest as well as the lowest in the land. Pinks are
numerous, the growers at Paisley enumerating about three
hundred varieties. Those are preferred which have the
limb of the petals nearly entire, and are well marked in
the centre with bright crimson or dark purple.

SWEET VIOLETS. 279

Pinks are mostly propagated by pipings in slight hot-
beds or under hand-glasses; and when proper attention is
given to the due admission of air, they generally succeed.
Occasionally rare sorts, which are scantily furnished with
grass, are propagated by layers. This flower does not re-
quire such elaborate composts as some others, but it likes
fresh light soils, well manured with decayed cow-dung.
Not more than two years of blooms should be taken from
the same bed, and it is the practice of most florists to have
a new bed every year. The flower-stalks are supported by
small sticks. As in the carnation, ligatures of bast-mat-
ting, or collars of card, are sometimes applied to the caly-
ces of the flowers: but this practice, however it may be
followed by those who judge according to the technical
“criteria of a fine flower,” will scarcely be adopted by any
who have an eye for natural beauty.

Sweet Violets, including varieties of Viola odorata and
the Neapolitan and Russian violets, are very desirable
ornaments in the spring months: and the fragrance of
their flowers is delightful when strewed on any kind of
server in the boudoir. To have them in perfection, a
new plantation should be made every year as soon as they
are done flowering, generally towards the middle or end
of May, preferring damp or cloudy weather for the opera-
tion.

The genus Lobelia may now be regarded as affording a
group of florists’ flowers. The leading species are L. car-
dinalis, fulgens, splendens, and syphilitica; but there are
several hybrids of merit. The cardinal flower, of a fine
scarlet color, has long been a valued plant. It is propa-
gated either by seed or by offsets. LL. fulgens, of a rich
crimson, is a still more showy species, forming a magnifi-
cent plant. A lobelia bed, consisting of these species and

280 FLOWER GARDEN.

of their hybrid offspring, having perhaps some of the pro-
cumbent species on the outside by way of edging, is cal-
culated to produce a beautiful effect in the flower garden,
continuing in bloom the whole season, Most of the kinds
afford offsets readily; if these be taken off and potted in
autumn, in alight sandy soil, they may be kept in a cool
frame over winter; or the entire old plants may be put
into large pots, and kept in the same way, the offsets be-
ing removed in the spring and forming excellent plants,

Tt would lead us too much into detail to speak minutely
of Caleeolaria, Phlox, Chelone, Pentstemon, Cinothera,
and other genera, which approach the character of florists’
flowers. ‘lo have them in perfection, they should be kept
in beds by themselves; and we are persuaded that, were a
moiety of the care bestowed upon them which is lavished
on florists’ flowers properly so called, they would amply
repay the labor of the cultivator,

The Chinese Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum - si-
nense), from the peculiar culture which it now undergoes,
may be considered to belong to this department of flowers.
Tt is a native of China, and though introduced many years
ago, its ornamental capabilities have only recently been
brought into notice, HKlowering in November and Decem-
ber, it fills up, with its many-colored blossoms, the blank
of a most dreary season, and affords the means of decorat-
ing green-houses, conservatories, and dwelling-houses, when
almost all other means of embellishment fail. Forty va-
rieties were enumerated by the late Mr. Sabine, in the
London Horticultural Memoirs ; but it is believed that
there are several others not yet introduced, flowers of
which are represented on Chinese painted screens, in a
stiff, but rigidly correct style, and which we may soon ex-
pect to receive from China. The Chrysanthemum is

CHINESE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 281

hardy enough to live in the open air, but it requires the
shelter of a wall, and, from the lateness of its flowering, it
is only the early varieties that even in fine seasons are
enabled to unfold their blossoms against a south wall in
our open borders. It is seen in its beauty only when
grown in pots and under glass. Yearly plants are prefer-
red. In the beginning of April, cuttings of the last year’s
shoots, about three inches long, are put singly into small
pots, filled with soil composed of one-half bog-earth or
leaf-mould, and one-half pure sand. Their growth is ex-
pedited at first by gentle heat. In about a month they
are found to be rooted, and are placed in a cold frame, in
which they are kept till the beginning of June, when they
are put into larger pots, and set out in some airy situation.
About this time, the tops of the plants are pinched off to
make them bushy, but no more side shoots are allowed to
remain for flowering than the plants are likely to be able
to support without a stake. In August, they are again
ehifted into larger pots, filled with strong rich soil. Dur-
ing the whole season, the pots are frequently moved to
prevent the roots from striking through, and they are
never plunged. Mr. Munro, of the London Horticultural
Garden, whose method of culture we have been describing,
recommends liquid manure to be applied from time to time
in summer and autumn. Other cultivators, in order to
have a greater succession of flowers, and a variety in the
stature of the plants, strike cuttings at two seasons, in
March and in May, and likewise propagated by layers in
August. In the beginning of winter the plants are placed
in a cold frame or vinery, and they are brought into a
milder temperature as they are wanted. To produce large
showy plants, a few of the chrysanthemums of the former
year may be selected, and being freed from suckers, and

282 FLOWER GARDEN.

having the mould shaken from their roots, may be repot-
ted and shifted repeatedly during the summer and autumn.

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES.

Grazep houses for the reception and culture of exotic
plants, though sometimes placed in connection with similar
structures in the forcing department, are now almost uni-
versally regarded as appendages of the flower garden. In
the hands of architects they have assumed a great variety
of forms, and too often has practical utility been sacrificed
to architectural taste. We shall confine ourselves to the
exhibition of the principle of the most important of these,
and shall limit our remarks to the Green-house, Conserva-
tory, and the Stove.

The G'reen-house is intended to afford a winter and
partly a summer shelter to the less tender classes of exotic
plants grown in pots. The annexed wood cut exhibits the

old-fashioned /ean-to green-house. The general form of
the house is that of a vinery, with pretty lofty front

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES. 283

glass. The main part of the area is occupied by a stage
rising in steps to receive the potted plants. At some
height above the front flue is placed a narrow horizontal
bench of trellis work, to receive pots containing small
plants which require to be near the light. In England,
since the repeal of the duty on slate, this material has
been in many cases advantageously employed in forming
the pavement, the shelving, and stages of plant-houses.
The interior air is warmed by one or two flues, or other
heating apparatus, according to its volume. Ifa temper-
ature of 45° Fahr. be maintained during winter, it is suffi-
cient. Sometimes green-houses are constructed with span-

Fig. 18.

284 FLOWER GARDEN.

roofs and a double stage; but they have a very plain
appearance, especially those which are commonly erected
inuursery gardens. They might be made much more orna-
mental, with little loss of light, as in the accompanying
figure (Fig. 18), which is designed for the south end of
one of these span-roofed houses. The plants have thus an
east and west aspect, or enjoy the morning and afternoon
sun. Such houses may indeed assume any form which
taste can suggest, provided there be a sufficiency of light,
and the plants be not too far from the glass. The heath-
house does not essentially differ from the green-house ; but
for it a span-roof is decidedly preferable, and provision
should be made for the most thorough ventilation.

In the Conservatory, the chief plants grow in beds of
earth sunk in the floor. The following figure shows the

eon
le OME mm el

principle of this species of house. The beds, marked 64 4,
are filled with a light soil, calculated for the plants which
are to inhabit them. This figure represents the front ele-

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES. 285

vation of the roof. Numerous varieties of this structure
also have appeared, and some most sumptuous examples
have been erected in the gardens of the opulent. With
similar restrictions as in the green-house, the conservatory
may be said to be capable of assuming any form. Orna»
mental climbing plants are generally trained under the
rafters, with a fine effect; such as Passiflora kermisina,
Dolichos lignosus, Ipomoea coccinea, Michauxii, Horsfal-
liz, and rubroccerulea.

The Plant-Stove may either be a dry-stove or a bark-
stove, or both combined, and is applied to the cultivation
of tropical plants which require an elevated temperature.
The dry-stove may be considered as a green-house, having
a larger than usual apparatus for the production of heat.
The bark-stove is furnished somewhat in the manner of a
pinery, with a receptacle to contain a bed of fermenting
tanners’ bark, into which the pots are plunged. In this
country, stoves are regarded as belonging rather to the
botanic than to the flower garden: they are extremely use-
ful, however, in the latter; for, besides presenting the florist
with many unusual forms of vegetation, they afford in sum-
mer a variety of beautiful plants, which, as they come into
bloom, may be introduced into the cooler green-house or
conservatory, and remain there till the flowering season be
over.

Sometimes the various botanical structures are combined
into one imposing assemblage, as that exhibited in Fig. 21 ;
a being a palm-house, 6 for New Holland plants; ¢ large
green-house, and the intermediate space being occupied by
dry-stove, heath-house, and green-houses. This mode is,
of course, suited only for places of the first order, where
splendor is an object, where everything is on a great scale,
and expense little regarded. In a vast proportion of cases

FLOWER GARDEN.

286

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BOTANICAL STRUCTURES. 287

economy must be studied; and in villa gardens the orna-
mental plant-house is very often attached to the library or
the drawing-room, or has a covered communication from
these apartments. A good plan for such a glazed house
may be found in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. vi., p.
664.

Green-house Plants.—This beautiful class of plants has
become so numerous that in a sketch like the present it is
impossible to give the names of even a limited selection.
We may once more refer to Mr. Loudon’s tables in his
Encyclopedia of Horticulture, or to his still more copious
lists in the Hortus Britannicus, from both of which works
much valuable information on the subject may be obtained.
The recent increase of species makes the task of selection
at once more necessary and more difficult; and it is one
which, it must be confessed, is often negligently performed.
Many of the finer sorts of woody plants are not propagated
without difficulty, and, consequently, being high-priced in
the nurseries, are found in requisite abundance only where
there is great liberality on the part of the proprietor. On
the other hand, the species which strike easily are circula-
ted by gardeners themselves, many of whom, by their own
interest and resources, more than half fill their green-houses
without calling for the pecuniary aid of their employers.
To this cause may be ascribed the perpetuation of many
mean-looking plants, which, if hardy, would scarcely be
tolerated in well-kept shrubberies, and certainly ought not
to encumber the green-house.

Light mould produced by the rotting of turf taken from
pastures, and mixed with sand, if necessary, or enriched by
the addition of leaf-mould, is well adapted for most grecn-
house plants. Some require a mixture of peat-earth ;

others thrive only in pure sandy peat. If more specific
; 1 1

288 FLOWER GARDEN.

directions be wished, we would recommend the reader to
have recourse to Cushing’s Exotic Gardener, or to the
more recent work by the late Mr. Sweet, entitled The Bo-
tanical Cultivator. The common means of propagation
is by cuttings, inserted in earth or sand, and covered, if
necessary, with bell-glasses. A few sorts are increased by
grafting or layering. Nearly all may be raised from seed,
large quantities of which are annually imported from
abroad. It may be added many green-house plants ripen
their seed in this country, and the collecting of such seeds
is too often neglected.

Many of these plants require shifting and fresh earth
twice a year; all of them should be repotted once a year
at least. It is the common practice to examine their roots
in spring or the early part of summer, and removing the
matted fibres, to put them into larger pots if necessary.
As room is extremely valuable in limited green-houses, it
is desirable that the plants should be kept of a moderate
size; and they are, therefore, rather to be under-potted
than otherwise. Many of the free-growing plants require
to be shifted again in August, at which period of the year
it is considered preferable to repot those which need to be
disturbed only once a year. During the summer months,
a great proportion of the inmates of the green-house are
placed in the open air, on a spot paved with flag-stones, or
laid with coal ashes, to prevent the entrance of earth-worms
into the pots, and the pots selected should be well sheltered
from high winds. Meanwhile, their place in the green-
house may be occupied by balsams and other tender annu-
als of a showy character. On the approach of winter, the
plants are again placed under cover. All that is neces-
sary in the management of the green-house in winter is to
keep up a steady but very moderate temperature, to pre-

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES. 289

elude the evil effects of damp by regular airing in mild, dry
weather, and to attend to slight watering where it may be
needed.

It is worthy of remark, that many species of green-house
plants flourish much more luxuriantly, and make a finer
appearance when in flower, if planted in the open border
during the summer months. Cultivators should therefore
diligently propagate such plants by cuttings in pots placed
in hotbeds in early spring, so as to have a store for plant-
ing out in June.

Of late years, particular genera of plants have ,come
greatly into vogue, and it would be an omission not to no-
tice some of them. Among the foremost may be mentioned
Pelargonium, with its affinities. The Pelargoniums are
of easy culture, being propagated readily by cuttings, and
requiring only to ke shifted from time to time. Young
plants are very liable to be attatked by the aphidion or
green fly. The most effectual cure is tobacco-water (as
procured from manufacturers of tobaceo, not a mere infu-
sion of tebacco.) If the plant be small, it may be dipped
into the liquid fer a minute or two, not only with impunity,
but with great advantage, the insects being thus killed.
Equal to these, in point of beauty of color, and certainly
superior in elegance of form, is the family of Cape heaths,
or Erice. Of this genus there are said to be 600 species,
considerably more than the half of which exist in our col-
lections. Many heaths may be raised from seed, which oc-
easionally ripens in this country: the most common mode
of propagatien, however, is by cuttings, and this in some
species is attended with difficulty. Very small cuttings
are stuck inte the purest white sand, and closely covered
with bell-glasses. The Erice require a peaty and sandy
soil, ane great attention in watering and giving plenty of

290 FLOWER GARDEN.

air. To have them in perfection, a separate house is indis
pensable. The heath-house should be very well lighted
easily and thoroughly ventilated, and so planned that the
plants may be near the glass; at the same time provision
should be made, by means of rollers of thin canvas, te
protect the plants from the scorching rays of the summer
sun, which are apt to induce mildew. For further infor-
mation, we may refer to the excellent little treatise of Mr.
M’Nab, of the Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, whose succesg
in this department is quite unrivaled, and in whose hands
Cape heaths attain a splendor which, we believe, they never
attain in the environs of Table Mountain itself. The
Eipacride are a lovely tribe from New Holland, which
should be cultivated along with the Cape heaths; particu-
larly Epacris impressa, nivalis, variabilis, and campanu-
lata.
fast of free-blooming Hardy Heaths, in their order of
flowering from January to December. (Commune-
cated by Mr. J. McNab.)

Erica herbacea. Erica Mackayana.

SaaS carnea. ramulosa.
-—— mediterranea hybernica. ciliaris.
——_——__—_—__——— intermedia. stricta.

—_——_ stricta. Calluna vulgaris, white, pink, red,
— —— nana. and double.
—— arborea. Erica cinerea, varieties.

australis. vagams.

— —— nana multiflora carnea.

rubra.

—— tetralix, varieties. —

The superb genus Camellia is the only other that shall
here be noticed. To the elegance of the finest evergreen,
the Camellia Japonica unites the beauty of the fairest rose.
‘The Camellia, though a native of Japan, is not particularly
tender, but, from some peculiarities in its constitution, its

CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 291

culture requires a considerable degree of attention and
care. Cuttings of the single red variety strike freely, and
upon these, as stocks, the finer sorts are grafted by inarch-
ing or side-grafting. The soil generally employed is a
mixture of peat and light loam. Care must be taken not
to allow the roots to become matted in the pots. The
young plants should be shifted at least once a year; when
old, and in large tubs, shifting once in two years will be
sufficient. It is found beneficial to apply a certain in-
creased degree of heat while the plants are growing, and
till they form flower-buds for the following season. ‘To
have Camellias in perfection, a house with a span-roof
should be appropriated for their reception. There are
some splendid collections of this noble plant, in appropriate
houses, in the nursery gardens in the neighborhood of Lon-
don, particularly at Hackney, Vauxhall, and Clapton.
Conservatory Plants.—These are composed of a selec-
tion from the numerous inmates of the green-house. They
should be naturally of an elegant form, capable in general
of sustaining themselves without the support of stakes, and
somewhat hardy in their constitution. Many of the Aus-
tralian plants, particularly the Acacias and Banksias, are
well adapted for this purpose. The ascending Proteas of
the Cape, Clethra arbora of Madeira, and many others of
a similar habit, may likewise take their place in this de-
partment. To these may be added a fewof the hardier
Heaths and Camellias, together with the broad-leaved
Myrtle, double-flowering Pomegranate, Camphor-laurel,
Tea-tree, and some of the varieties of the magnificent
Rhoddodendron arboreum. Any wall in the interior of the
house may be furnished with a trellis, anu covered with
such climbing plants as Lonicera Japonica, Maurandia
semperflorens, and Barclayana, and the trailing Pelargo-

292 FLOWER GARDEN.

niums. In the management of the conservatory, abundant
air should be admitted, and care should be taken not to
allow the plants to become drawn, or too tall and spindle-
formed by overcrowding. ‘They should be so pruned as to
keep them comparatively short and bushy; but after all
pains have been taken, the time at length arrives when
they either disfigure themselves by pressing against the
roof-glass, or must submit to the no less distorting process
of a violent amputation. To meet such exigencies, it is re-
commended that, wherever there is also a green-house, a
few plants should be kept in training for the conservatory,
and substituted in the room of any that, from excess of
growth, become unmanageable. After all, the fourth, fifth,
and sixth summers of the conservatory will always be the
finest ; and when a longer series of vears have gone by, and
the plants have outgrown the space allotted to them, per-
haps the best thing that can be done is to change the whole
interior of the house, plants, earth, and all. IEf this opera-
tion be anticipated, and for a year or two prepared for,
sufficiently large plants may be had in readiness, and the
appearance of a well-furnished house be again pretty well
attained in a single season. It is scarcely necessary to add,
that the neatness which is so desirable everywhere in the
flower garden is absolutely indispensable in the conserva-
ory.

Stove Plants.—There are many beautiful plants, natives
of tropical regions, which are cultivated in our stoves, but
which, owing to the high temperature they require, can be
only oceasionally visited with pleasure. This may account
for the fact that ornamental plant-stoves are seldom found
but in first-rate gardens, even where the price of fuel is
inconsiderable. It is unnecessary to be minute respecting
the culture of dry-stove plants, it being precisely that of

STOVE PLANTS. 293

green-house plants, differing only in the increased degree
of heat. Many dry-stove plants are succulent, such as
those belonging to the genera Cactus, Aloe, and Mesembry-
anthemum. ‘These require rather an arid soil, composed
of a little light loam mixed with lime-rubbish or shivers.
One of the most successful growers of the cactus tribe was
the late Mr. Walter Henderson at Woodhall. The com-
post which he employed consisted of 1 part rotted dung, |
rotted leaves, 1 heath mould, 1 1-2 loam, and 1 coarse
sand, all well mixed together ; and the pot was nearly one-
third filled with shreds, so as to form an effectual drain.
Some of the species, such as Cactus speciosus and Cereus
flagelliformis, are improved, and made to flower more freely,
by being kept growing vigorously in an airy green-house
during the summer months. The dark-stove plants thrive
best in a confined moist atmosphere, possessing something
of the tepid vapor peculiar to the equatorial climes. In
order to furnish bottom-heat, a bark pit is prepared,
into which the pots or tubs are sunk; and the air is heated
by flues, by steam, or, what is better, by a circulation of
hot water. Along the front glass, and on the back wall,
are shelves, on which pots may be arranged, according as
the plants require light or shade. On the front shelves are
occasionally placed shallow troughs filled with sphagnum,
and fragments of peat-moss or decayed wood, for the recep-
tion of air plants and other epiphytes. Small cisterns, too,
are introduced to contain tender aquatics. Along the raf-
ters some of the more elegant species of Passiflora, such as
P. quadrangularis, may be trained; and through the
branches of some of the woody plants, Cuscuta Chilensis,
Tropzolum tricolorum and Jarattii, and other tender
climbers, may be allowed to twine themselves. In the pit
may be plunged some of the Palms, those princes of plants,

~

294 FLOWER GARDEN.

particularly the Chinese Plaintain, Musa Cavendishii,
which is of comparatively humble growth, and often yields
its fruit when not exceeding six feet in height. In short,
there is no end of those numerous tribes, “ the potent sons
of moisture and of heat,” with which the teeming regions
of the equator are filled; and no suite of stoves in this
country, however extensive, can come up to the wishes of
the botanist. The management of this department of flori-
culture is laborious and trying to the constitution of the
operative gardener. A strong heat both in the bark-bed
and in the atmosphere of the house must be maintained ;
the air must be kept charged with vapor, and the plants
require frequent shifting and repotting. For more detailed
information as to the management of particular stove
plants, we may again refer to Cushing, who, in his Ezotic
Gardener, has treated this subject with a skill and fulness
that have not been surpassed by any of his successors.

To the precautions recommended for protecting plants
placed under glass during the American winter, it is neces-
sary to add that much greater care is requisite in guarding
against the effects of extreme cold and sudden variations
on the western than on the eastern side of the Atlantic.
The thermometer in the green-house should never be
allowed to descend below forty degrees in the absence of
the sun; and even at that temperature plants will in very
clear cold weather, often part with so much of their warmth
through radiation as to be nipped by frost. But, in clos-
ing out the cold external air, the vital importance of venti-
lation to plants must not be forgotten, and fresh air should
be cautiously admitted on all occasions. When the tem-
perature is high, plants require more watering than when
the thermometer is low. In very cold spells, much moist-
ure invites frost. Whenever the weather is_ sufficiently

TROPICAL ORCHIDACEZ. 295

mild, the plants should be allowed the full benefit of the
open alr.

Tropical Orchidacee.—Till within the last few years,
the cultivation of epidendrous plants was deemed too diffi-
cult to be attempted in private establishments, and was
resigned to Royal Gardens. A great revolution in this
respect has since taken place; epiphytes being now exten-
sively cultivated. The collection of such plants in the
principal nursery gardens near Londen is vast, particularly
at those of Loddiges, Hackney—Rollisons, Tooting—
Knight, Chelsea—and Low, Clapton. Some amateur cul-
tivators eminently excel in them; such as the Duke of
Devonshire at Chatsworth, where Mr. Paxton presides;
Karl Fitzwilliam at Wentworth, where Mr. Cooper is gar-
dener; Mr. Bateman at Knypersley, and Mr. Rucker at
Wandsworth. More than 1000 species ef epiphytes are
now in cultivation. They are all tropical productions, and,
of course, need stove-heat in this country; but those from
the Hast Indies require a higher temperature and more hu-
mid atmosphere than these from South America. In Scot-
Jand, the cultivation of tropical epiphytes is carried to
great perfection at the Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh and
Glasgow, and also at the Experimental Garden of the Cal-
edonian Horticultural Society, Edinburgh; and the prac-
tices followed in these establishments are here recommend-
ed. In some private gardens, likewise, such epiphytes are
grown with great success; particularly at Dalkeith Park,
under Mr. Mackintosh, and Bothwell Castle, under Mr.
Turnbull. It has now been fully ascertained by exten-
sive experience, that their cultivation is not nearly so diffi-
cult as was formerly supposed. When pots or shallow pans
are used, they should be well furnished at bottom with
shivers, or broken bricks or tiles, to drain off superfluous

296 FLOWER GARDEN.

moisture, and then filled up with oblong pieces of spongy
peat, between two and three inches in length, and more
than an inch in breadth and depth. Chips of rotten sticks,
and tufts of decayed hypnum or sphagnum, and the mix-
ture of fibrous roots which may be grubbed up in any
wood having a light or sandy soil, may often be used with
advantage, for the growth of Dendrobiums, and for all
wicker baskets suspended by wires from the rafters, where
peat would be apt to get too dry and hard. Some kinds are
the better for being fostered with the bottom-heat of a tan-
bed. The roots are generally thrown out near the surface:
a principal point in the culture consists in encouraging the
development of these; the compost of peat and other sub-
stances should therefore be raised several inches above the
margin of the pot, so that the superficial roots may have
free scope. It is not necessary that the peat used should
be dried: in general it is found to answer best when it is
rather soft and spongy. When the peat is dry, it is diffi-
cult to get wooden-pegs to penetrate without breaking the
peat, particularly for Stanhopeas, or plants requiring to be
piled high up. The plants may be piled on the peat from
six to eighteen inches, according to the size of the plant,
and of the pot used. Stanhopeas are found to flower best
when planted on rough peat, a considerable height above
the edge of the pots or flats used, so as to allow the flowers
to come out from the crevices of the peat. They are also
cultivated successfully in baskets of copper-wire, made
with the work very open, and filled with sphagnum mogs.
The former method is particularly adapted for a warm, dry
atmosphere; and the latter for a warm, moist atmosphere.
In wire-baskets, likewise, amongst rough peat, the various
species of Epiphyllum, with Drymonia punctata and Brug
mansia floribunda, may be successfully cultivated.

TROPICAL ORCHIDADEZ. 297

The following epiphytes are easily cultivated in a vinery
or a pine-pit, in pots filled with pieces of peat: Catasetum
tridentatum, floribundum; Brassia maculata; Oncidium
flexuosum, pulvinatum; Gongora atro-purpurea; Cattleya
intermedia, Forbesii, labiata, crispa; Zygopetalon Mackayi;
Stanhopea insignis, grandiflora, oculata, tigrina, Devoniana;
Crytopodium Andersonii; Acropera Loddigesii. The fol-
lowing kinds are well adapted for being placed in pots
filled with hypnum or sphagnum, and suspended from the
rafters; Dendrobium Pierardi, cucullatum, speciosum ;
Oncidium bifolium, papilio, junceum; Fernandesia ele-
gans; Aéranthes grandiflora; Vanda teres, multiflora;
Broughtonia sanguinea; Rodriguesia secunda. Some of
the larger species grow best in rough, black peat-soil, and
flower freely under ordinary,treatment in a stove; such as
Phajus maculatus; Calanthe veratrifolia; Bletia macu-
lata; Peristeria elata; Cymbidium siense, aloéfolium, en-
sifolium. Cypripedium insigne, and venustum. The Va-
nilla planifolia may be cultivated in the same way ; and it
has been found, that if the retinaculum be carefully re-
moved from the top of the stigma, and the anther turned
down to the stigma, the very fragrant fruit of this plant
may be produced in our stoves.

A principal object should be to imitate, in some measure,
the native climate of these orchidacez; to give them a
dry or hot season, a rainy or watering period, and a cold
or winter season. Generally speaking, the dry season may
include May, June, and July; the watering period, August,
September, and October; and the cold season the rest of
the year.

The propagation of these epiphytes is not in general dif-
ficult. Many sorts form pseudo-bulbs, by means of which

they are readily multiplied. In others, if the rhizoma or
13*

298 FORCING GARDEN

root-stock be divided, with a piece of stem adhering, there
is little risk of failure. These plants come into flower: at
all seasons of the year. The blossoms of many are beau-
tiful, and of the most curious structure; and some are
fragrant. |

THE FORCING GARDEN

is only a department, but an important one, of the Fruit
Garden. The term forcing is strictly applicable only to
those artificial processes by which vegetation is in a con-
siderable degree accelerated; but in common language it
has been applied to all those operations in which glazed
frames or houses are concerned, though they may be em-
ployed merely in aiding the common progress of nature, or
in counteracting the great vicissitudes of our climate. For
the sake of convenience, we shall adopt the term in its
broadest acceptation. After some preliminary observa-
tions, we shall first treat of the structures, and then of the
fruits and vegetables which are cultivated in them.

The principal object of hot-houses, and other structures
of a similar nature, is to produce an artificial temperature
and humidity of the atmosphere, which shall resemble, as
nearly as possible, the climate in which the fruits or plants
naturally flourish. A command of heat is obviously a pri-
mary requisite. . A regulated admission of air, and the pre-
sence of a certain degree of moisture, are, in the next place,
necessary. Lastly, without the free access of light, plants
become blanched, or are destroyed by the moisture which
they generate. These, then, are the conditions which limit
the form of hot-houses; when these are attained, any form
may be adopted which invention can devise, or wealth exe-
cute; but every true lover of the art will aim at simpli-

ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 299

vity, and will deprecate useless expenditure, so often ex-
hibited in this department, as injurious to the character as
well as to the progress of horticulture.

Artificial Heat.—Forcing-houses are heated in various
ways; by means of flwes conveying smoke and heated air;
by pipes conducting steam or hot water; by so construct-
ing the glazed house as to increase the calorific action of
the sun’s rays; and sometimes by the heat generated in
the course of the fermentation of vegetable substances.

Flues are generally constructed of common brick, though
occasionally fire-brick is employed in the neck, or that part
of the flue immediately adjoining the furnace. The bricks
in the side walls are placed on their edges, and the top
covering is of tile an inch and a half in thickness. In dis-
tricts where sandstone flag abounds, the covers are often
formed of that material. Horticultural writers have recom-
mended that flues should be about eighteen inches deep, and
of nearly equal breadth; but to obtain the greatest quantity
of heat, it clearly appears, from the experiments of Mr.
Stevenson (Cal. Hort. Mem., i. 143,) that, where possible,
the breadth should be nearly double the depth. It is ad-
vantageous to detach flues as much as possible from the
walls of the building which encloses them, in order that
the heat may be communicated to the air only. Formerly
they were often built, sometimes one above another, with
only one side exposed, a practice which, as it occasioned
great waste of heat from conduction, has been generally
abandoned. When it is necessary to lead one flue above
another, or to make it return upon itself, spaces should be
left between them, to allow the free passage of caloric from
every side.

With a view to economy of fuel, can-flues and cast-iron
cylinders have been proposed, and occasionaily adopted,

A

300 FORCING GARDEN.

but their use has not hitherto become general. The ar-
rangement of the flues must depend upon the nature of the
house; it may, however, be remarked generally, that, as
heated air has a tendency to ascend, they should be placed
as near as can conveniently be done to the front of the
house, where, of course, the sloping roof is lowest. It is
likewise important that the flue should be introduced, and
exert its greatest influence, at that point of the structure
which is most exposed to any refrigerating cause.

The furnace is most properly situate behind the house,
and is generally covered by a shed. For the most part it
is constructed so that the upper part of its arch shall be on
a level with the top of the flue; but where a considerable
heat is required, as in pine-apple stoves, it is found pre-
ferable to sink the furnace, in order to produce a neck or
rise of about a foot and a half in heighth, which moderates
the intensity of the heat on its first entranee, and, by in-
creasing the draught, causes the fire to burn freely. The
size of the furnace must be regulated by the kind of fuel
employed. Where coke or chareoal is used, it may be
about eighteen inches square; but where small coal, turf,
or peat is to be burned, it should be two feet, or even two
and a half square, by two feet in height. A large furnace
insures the long continuance of the fire, a fact which in
practice has received too little attention. To resist the
effects of heat, the interior should be lined with fire-briek.
The roof should be strongly arched. The door may be
about a foot square, and when it is double, as it ought al-
ways to be, the outer half should be a little larger than
the inner. The grate is of the same breadth as the door,
and may extend about two-thirds of the length of the fur-
nace. The ash-pit is equally wide, and from fifteen to
eighteen inches deep; it is furnished with a ventilator in

ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 301

the door to regulate the admission of air. In practice the
furnace, and especially the ash-pit, should be kept clear of
ashes; as by this means, coals of an inferior quality may
be burnt with ease.

The following figure (Fig. 22) represents a longitudinal
section of the common garden furnace. It is surrounded
by a double wall to prevent the escape of heat.

Fig. 22.

pis wana Sem
ae cachunnicg /

ey

ath ' Y]
|
‘|

‘Mr. Witty has invented a furnace, which is possessed
of valuable qualities. A vertical section of it is given in

Fig. 23.

ee

7] Wy .

a Y f YY BRN

—= LD OSES: ‘=

MT =~ i ‘ar

Y Mgr
Pe
] a i a
YY i ih

He i | i i NG i 1?

i
37
LPL

Fig. 23. The fuel is supplied by the door at a, and is
pressed down the inclined plane towards the grate c, by an

302 FORCING GARDEN.

apparatus placed at the head of it; but this method, being
complicated, has given way to several modifications, in
which the door @ has been found the most useful, the fuel
being pressed forward by the common tools used for feed-
ing furnaces: 6 is the door for regulating the fuel on the
grate c. In its progress, the whole surface of the coal
along the inclined plane is constantly kept in a state of
‘inflammation, the flame having naturally a tendency to burn
upwards. In this way, the greater part of the fresh coal
is carbonized, that is, the gas is separated from it and in-
flamed, leaving only coke. The strong combustion of the
coke at the grate produces heat enough to carbonize the
coal, and air enough to inflame the gas. This furnace,
therefore, not only consumes most of the smoke, but effects
a considerable saving of fuel.

Steam.—Of late years steam has been applied with suc-
cess to the production of an artificial climate in glazed
houses. It is more genial than fire-heat from flues, being
less contaminated, and more equable and pliant in its
distribution. In steam hot-houses, the plants can scarcely
ever be liable to suffer from scorching heat; the air con-
tinues pure and untainted, and persons visiting the house
are much less liable to be annoyed by the smell of smoke
and soot. It is neater in all its arrangements within doors
and also without, for it precludes the necessity of more
than one furnace, and one chimney-top, and in a great mea-
sure removes the unseemliness of the heaps of coals and
ashes with which common furnaces are usually surrounded.
In districts where coals are dear, the saving of fuel is an
object ; and it has been found that seven bushels of coal
go as far in keeping up steam heat as ten bushels do in
maintaining av equal temperature in the ordinary way.
By merely opening a valve, the house may at any time be

STEAM. 303

effectually steamed, that is, filled with the steam or vapor,
and the warm moisture thus applied to the plants is ob-
served to contribute remarkably to their health and vigor.
To counterbalance these advantages, we are not aware of
any defects, except such as may arise from the greater com-
plexity of the apparatus, or at least its liability to disre-
pair and accident.

Steam is generated in a cast or wrought iron boiler, of
an oblong form, furnished with safety-valves, and heated
by a smoke-consuming furnace. As in the common steam-
engine, the boiler is supplied from a cistern above, and is
made to regulate itself by a simple contrivance. In the
feed-head is a valve, which is opened by the sinking of a
float, which descends in proportion as the water is dissi-
pated in steam; and, being balanced by a weight, whenever
a sufficient quantity of water is admitted, rises again, and
shuts the valve. As steam may be conveyed, without ma-
terially impairing its calorific powers, to the distance of
several thougand feet, one boiler is sufficient for heating all
the glazed houses which are ever erected together; but a
second is generally kept in readiness, to act as an auxiliary
in case of accident, or in very severe weather. Steam is
conducted from the boiler in a single main pipe, or in two
parallel pipes, which, according to Mr. Tredgold, may be
only one inch in bore. The divarications of the pipes into
particular houses are arranged somewhat in the manuer of
flues, and, indeed, are sometimes placed within these, or
on them, when they already exist. These interior pipes
are from three to six inches in diameter, in order to afford
a greater radiating surface, and are supplied with sets of
valves, to admit, regulate, or exclude the heated vapor,
according to circumstances.

The most perfect and extensive samples of steam ap-

304 FORCING GARDEN.

paratus exist at Syon House, the princely seat of the Duke
of Northumberland, near Brentford, and in the nursery
garden of Messrs. Loddiges at Hackney. At the latter
place, glazed houses, to the extent of almost a thousand
feet in length, and forming three sides of a square, are
heated solely by steam from one boiler. The boiler is of
an oblong shape, measuring eleven feet by four, and is
formed of malleable iron. In certain narrow houses in-
tended by Messrs. Loddiges for green-house plants, a sin-
gle steam-pipe is found sufficient. In other houses of con-
siderable height and breadth, or where a higher tempera-
ture is required, as in the palm-house, the steam-flue is
made to describe two or three turns.

Water, contained in large vessels or pipes, is sometimes
heated by steam, and so made the medium of conveying
caloric to the atmosphere of glazed houses. The annexed
figure represents an example of this arrangement. In the

instance here given, a small steam-tube, one inch in
diameter, enters a water-pipe eight inches in diameter,
and twenty-eight feet long, wholly within the forcing-
house; it passes into the large pipe at the centre, and
after traversing its whole length and returning, it issues
out immediately below the point at which it entered, It
then forms a siphon, by which the condensed water is con-

STEAM, 305

veyed away. A more detailed description may be found
in the London Horticultural Transactions, vol. iii.
Steam is sometimes employed to furnish bottom heat.
In the garden of Mr. Sturge, near Bath, a shallow cistern
of water is heated by a steam-pipe, in the manner exhibit-
ed the two following figures. The cistern is covered with
pavement, over which is a bed of small stones, then ashes

or sand, into which the pots containing plants are to be
plunged.

re ‘s 4
Gl iJ
LU LLL PLL

iiss 2 0

My
y)

YM

SSS MOM

OD EMO

LLL LLL

Ne

Steam has also been employed to heat flues. The fol-
lowing figure represents a side view and section of a flue
filled with small stones or broken bricks, and heated by

Fig. 26.

—S
aS
cS
eo8
SN
SS

mn
:

he

SSSoss
viee
SSSA S

is

S

UMM

With = bes ee

means of a small steam-pipe passing along the lower part

306 FORCING GARDEN. .

of the flue. Along the upper side of this pipe are a num-
ber of small holes, becoming more frequent towards the
farther end, to allow the escape of steam: there are, be-
sides, a few perforations in the under side, to clear away
condensed water. The flue has a slight inclination to that
end of the house from which the water can be more easily
drained.

Similar expedients were long ago employed in the heat-
ing of forcing-pits, by the late Mr. John Hay, of Edin-
burgh, a garden architect of great judgment and experi-
ence. Fig. 27 represents a recent variety of this mode of

Fig. 27.

PAU oman
a
—

ition

SONATA
lqe,ited st >
‘an

Y ds TITEL YY <a : oe RMIT Ib vale - - LIU, . Wi
yy Seaeateres 3 rr Bar ea Sir hare

we ae aS:

ee
Ze

SSSSSSS
ea!

pemea Pais

y MALL EE.
HOLL MMU YM EEL

supplying surface and bottom heat, by discharging steam
into flues and chambers filled with stones. The steam is
admitted by small pipes running along the central pit, in
channels about four inches deep, and of the same width.
These channels are crossed by others at right angles; and
at the points of intersection the steam is permitted to
escape by two small holes, one on each side of the pipe.

HOT WATER. 307

The pits must have a water-tight paved bottom, with a de-
clivity of one inch in ten feet. The sides and covers of the
channels are loosely jointed, and are permeable by the
steam. Stop-cocks are attached to the pipes, so that the
supply of vapor can be adjusted: Another mode of adapt-
ing steam to the production of bottom heat may be seen
in Mr. Macmurtrie’s Pine-Pit, to be afterwards described.

Hot Water.—More recently the circulation of hot water
in iron pipes or vessels has been successfully employed in
producing artificial warmth. ‘The temperature derived
from this source has all the properties of steam-heat, with
the following additional advantages: it is more steady, be-
ing less affected by changes of temperature in the open air
than in houses heated by fire-flues, or even by steam-pipes ;
it is not liable to interruption by the bursting of vessels,
and it is more lasting, as water does not cool so rapidly as
aqueous vapor.

The following explanation of the principle of the hot-
water apparatus is given by the late Mr. Tredgold, in an
excellent paper in the Lond. Hort. Trans., vol. vii. “‘ We
may select the simple case of two vessels placed on a hori-

Fig. 28.

“ G
jee 0
——

2 a

W Saat
\

7} |

zontal plane, with two pipes to connect them ; the vessels
being open at top, and the one pipe connecting the lower

308 FORCING GARDEN.

parts of the vessels, and the other the upper parts, If the
vessels and pipes be filled with water, and heat be applied

to the vessel A, the effect of heat will be to expand the.
water in the vessel A; and its surface will, in consequence,

rise to a higher level, @ @, the former general level being

66. The density of the fluid in the vessel A will also de-

crease, in consequence of its expansion; but as soon as the

column, ¢ @, of fluid above the centre ef the upper pipe is
of greater weight than the column, / e, above that centre,

motion will commence along the upper pipe from A to B,

and the change this motion produces in the equilibrium of

the fluid will cause a eorresponding motion in the lower
pipe from B to A; and in short, the motion will obviously
continue till the temperature be nearly the same in both
vessels ; or if water be made to boil in A, it may also be
boiling hot in B, because ebullition in A will assist the
motion,”

The figure referred to in the preceding quotation, repre-
senting the common tank boiler surrounded by a flue with
a cistern at the extremity of the pipes, exhibits the form
in which the apparatus was first erected; but as in this

eer
Fig. 29.

SRT NTA

\
22) seman nee ee eatin SNe AT a ?

255 ent Stine at emmee g: teen cmemene am el

arrangement the process of heating was very slow, many

HOT WATER. 309

changes have been made; the cistern has generally been
abandoned, and boilers of various configurations have been
adopted. Fig. 29 is a longitudinal section, and the follow-

Fig, 30.

fa

ing is a transverse section of a flued tank boiler, in which
_ the surface exposed to the heat being increased, the effect
required is accelerated, and at the same time a considera-
ble saving of fuel is effected.

The conical boiler, invented by John Rogers, Esquire,
of Sevenoaks, Kent, is formed of two truncated concentric
ones, with a space of two or three inches between them for
the water, the furnace being in the inner cone, and the fuel
supplied from the top.

Mr. Rogers’ boiler was originally surrounded with brick-
work, but several modifications and improvements of it have
been introduced; in some cases it has been fitted up in a
sheet-iron case, like Arnot’s stove. In the following figure,
the boiler is placed in a cast-iron stand, with ground circular
furnace, and register ash-pit doors—a being the furnace, b
the boiler, c flow and returning pipes, 7 the furnace door, €
smoke-pipe to the vent, f ash-pit, g branders, hole for
cleaning the furnace. The best kinds of fuel for this fur-
nace are coke, gas-cinders, and anthracite; but common

310 FORCING GARDEN,

coal which does not cake very much has been found to be
well adapted for the purpose, as it is soon formed into coke.

Fig. 31.

N
\\

The following is the rationale of the process of the heat-
ing of this boiler, as given by Mr. Rogers in the volume
of the Gardener's Magazine for 1840 :—

“ As fuel cannot be consumed without air, if a furnace
be constructed of considerable depth, and filled with fuel,
and air be admitted only at the bottom, that fuel alone is
consumed which lies immediately on the bars, and first re-
ceives the draught of air. The fuel above, provided it
transmits the air, becomes red-hot, or nearly so, but does
not consume until that below it is destroyed. In this man-
ner, one of these conical furnaces being lighted and filled
with fuel, that portion in the upper part of the furnace,
which cannot burn, absorbs the heat of the burning fuel
below, and radiates or transmits it to the water on every
side. So perfect is this absorption of heat that for several
hours after the furnace has been filled up with cinders,
though there may be a fierce fire below, little or no heat
escapes by the chimney—the whole being taken up by the
surrounding water. The economy, therefore, of fuel in
such an apparatus is very great. It is evident that excess

HOT WATER. 311

of draught must be carefully guarded against, so much
only being allowed as will consume the fuel steadily, which
is easily learned by experience. The necessity, also, of
keeping the aperture in front close, so that air enters the
furnace only through the ash-pit, is hence evident. The
water (as may be observed in Fig. 31) is in close and im-
mediate contact with the red-hot fuel on all sides, no black
smoking coals intervening, as in most kinds of boilers ;
hence the great power in proportion to size.”

The economy of fuel in these boilers is not their prin-
cipal advantage; but their great recommendation is a long-
continued and steady heat. When properly managed, they

Fig. 32.

ki
———— ht |

MUTT TTTAA

HOTTA MTT

jp

LMT LLL:

UTILIZE

may be depended on for preserving the heat for from fifteen
to twenty hours. They have been successfully applied to
all descriptions of hot-houses, but for pits they are emi-
neutly useful, from the small space they occupy; and when
fired with coke, gas-cinders, or anthracite, they give off
very little smoke.

It is unnecessary to describe all the numerous modi ca-
F.

312 FORCING GARDEN.

tions of this apparatus; but it may be proper to direct the
attention of the reader to the close boiler represented in
Fig. 32, in which is shown how the circulation may be
conducted over a door or other obstacle. In this case the
upper pipe must not ascend and descend twice: air-tubes
ought also to be placed in the boiler, and on the highest
part of the pipes; and the whole must be made consider-
ably stronger than on common occasions. The annexed
figure will give an idea of an isometrical elevation of a

Fig. 33.

hot-water apparatus for a vinery thirty feet long by eleven
wide. A is the boiler, as in the figure on p. 308; B the
upper or delivering pipe; © the principal part of the upper
pipe, of a flat form, presenting a greater radiating surface,
in proportion to the quantity of heat; D the descending
limb; E the returning pipe, of a cylindrical form.

Mr. Fowler has employed the siphon as a part of the
hot-water apparatus; and in his tract on the Thermo-
siphon, as he calls it, has shown how its various modifica-
tions may be employed in warming hot walls, as well as in
heating glazed houses. The following statement of the
principle is given in the Gardener’s Magazine, vol. v.
“Any one may prove that hot water will circulate in a

HOT WATER. 313

siphon, by taking a piece of lead pipe, say of half an inch
sore, and four or five feet long, bending it like a siphon,
but one leg a good deal more bent than the other, in order
to give the descending water time and space for giving out
its heat ; and then, filling this tube with water, and placing
one hand en each end to retain it full, immerse the extre-
mities ina pot of water over a fire, as represented in the
annexed diagram. Supposing the water of
a uniform temperature in both legs of the
siphon, no circulation weuld take place ; but
supposing it to cool sooner in the long leg
a than in the short leg 6, then the equilibri-
um would be destroyed, and the water in
the long leg a@ would descend, and draw up
water through the short leg 6, and this cir-
culation would continue as long as the water
c¢ was maintained at a temperature above
that of the surrounding atmosphere.”

Mr. Kewley’s adaptation of the siphon is one of the
simplest and most efficient that has been proposed. In
Fig. 35, a c e are the two legs of a siphon, through the
upper of which the heated water ascends, and by the lower
descends. Immediately over the descending bend, a pipe
connected with an air-pump is inserted, in order to fill the
pipes, or remove the air which collects in the superior
limb. Instead of the air-pump, a funnel with air-tight

Fig. 36.

314 FORCING GARDEN.

valves is sometimes employed. This mode of circulation
has been adopted in some of the principal nursery gardens
near London.

Mr. Charles H. J. Smith, garden architect, in a com-
munication to the Scottish Horticultural Society, has
clearly shown that the system of heating by the circula-
tion of hot-water in metallic pipes is easily applicable, not
only to any glazed house constructed with flues, but to
any selectiportion of an existing fruit-wall, although al-
ready clothed with peach, vine, or fig-trees. In the last
case, a small furnace and boiler are, of course, placed at
the back of the wall; the expanding water rises to a cis-
tern near the top of the wall; horizontal pipes, making
three or four turns, are inserted into the south front of the
wall (which is an easy operation, as the wall is usually
faced with brick); and through these the water circulates,
to the great increase of the temperature of the air sur-
rounding the tree. The operation should be accomplished
late in the autumn; the tree being carefully unnailed, bent
forward, and secured from injury or breaking, and as care-
fully replaced.

Mr. A. Perkins has constructed an apparatus of small
tubes hermetically sealed, in which water circulates, of a
temperature varying from 300° to 400° Fahrenheit. The
contrivance is very ingenious, and has been pretty exten-
sively employed at London and Edinburgh, in heating
public offices and warerooms ; but as the opinions of hor-
ticulturists respecting its merits, as applicable to the fore-
ing garden, are still divided, and as it has not as yet stood
the test of much experience, it may be sufficient to give it
this cursory notice. For further information, however,
we may refer to the Gardener’s Magazine, vols. viii.
and ix.

HOT WATER. 315

Mr. Corbett, foreman at Pontey’s nursery garden, Ply-
mouth, introduced a mode of employing hot water as a
means of heating. From a common boiler proceeds an up-
right tube, and this tube leads to a continued series of
open gutters. Heat being applied to the boiler, the water
rises in the tube and flows forward in the gutters, giving
out moisture in proportion to the degree of heat. As the
water cools or becomes more dense or heavy, it gradually
falls back to the bottom of the boiler.

Mr. Rendle, of Union Road Nursery, Plymouth, has
also introduced a mode of heating, in which he employs
tanks instead of pipes, or gutters, for both surface and bot-
tom heat. These tanksare formed of wood, brick, stone, or
east iron. When formed of wood, they require to be made
of good sound plank, not less than two inches thick, pro-
perly jointed, and are usually covered with slates. If they
are formed of stone or brick, the insides require a thick
coating of Roman cement, and for covers, stone, slate, or
brick pavement is employed. The cast iron tanks have
corners of the same materials.

When only one tank is fitted up in a house or pit, a
division is made along the centre, leaving an opening at the
end farthest from the boiler, for the water to flow through,
the hot water or flow pipe from the boiler being-fixed to
the end of the tank on one side of the division, and the
cold water of return pipe to the boiler to the end, on the
opposite side of the division. When two tanks are used,
they are joined to the flow and return pipes respectively,
and united at the extreme ends. In pits, the tanks may
be carried round the sides and ends of the pit, with a divi-
sion between the flow and return pipes.

The principal advantage of the application of this mode
of heating consists in the production of bottom heat.

3816 FORCING GARDEN.

Proper provision ought, however, to be made for prevent:
ing more of the steam or vapor rising from the hot water
(into the house) than what is requisite; for, if this precaue
tion be not adopted, there will be too much damp in the
winter season for the proper growth or preservation of the
plants.*

To mention the rays of the sun amongst the sources of
artificial heat may excite a smile; yet it happens that,
from the stagnation of air, the reflection of light from
walls, and other circumstances, they often produce a very
considerable proportion of the increased temperature of a
hot-house. This species of heat, however, is materially
affected by the admission of the air necessary to the growth
and healthy state of the plants. We are not aware of its
having been employed as a primary source of heat, except
in the case of Dr. Anderson’s patent hot-house, in whieh
heated air was kept, bottled up, as it were, in separate
chambers; an arrangement too irregular and unmanage-
able to be of much utility in our variable climate,

Vegetable substances in a state of fermentation evolve a
considerable quantity of caloric, and are much employed to
produce dottom heat in hotbeds, pine-apple, or melon pits,

* Tt will be seon that Mr, Rendle’s mode of heating is merely an exten-
sion of that of Mr. Corbett, described above; and as some interest was ex-
cited by Mr, Corbett’s claim to originality in his mode of heating, it may be
proper to state that his patent was sealed in August, 1828, while the same
mode, as described at page 362, was in operation inthe gardens at Hopetoun
House in October, 1832, two years before the publication of this treatise in
the Wneyclopedia Britannica, In the Gardener's Magazine for 1830, a
description is given of a houso fitted up in the nursery of Mr. Knight, King’s
Road, Chelsea, by Mr. George Jones, of Birmingham, with cast iron troughs
and movable covers, from which account Mr. Smith believes it was that he
made the application of the troughs in the pits he designed, as described at
page 363 of the present treatise.

ADMISSION OF AIR. 317

In a few instances they have been applied to warm the
atmosphere of vineries and peach-houses, in which, how-
ever, they have been found to be but an indifferent substi-
tute for the other means already explained.

In the management of artificial heat, a considerable de-
gree of caution is required. All the operations of nature
are gradual; and in forcing, it is well to follow these as
the safest examples. The judicious gardener will there-
fore apply his heat very gradually at first; he will increase
it by degrees for several weeks, and, in particular, he will
guard against any sudden decrease of warmth, as nothing
is more necessary to success than that the course of vege-
tation be continued uninterruptedly through foliation, inflo-
rescence, and fructification. He will cause the tempe-
rature to increase by day and decrease by night, to rise
in summer and fall in winter. He will, in short, imitate,
as much as possible, the natural and varying influence of
the sun.

It is scarcely necessary to say that a Fahrenheit ther-
mometer is an indispensable instrument to the gardener,
not only in the forcing-house, but in every department.
Six’s Registering thermometer is very convenient for point-
ing out the extreme temperatures during night or day.

The admission of Air.—The deteriorating influence
which all living plants are supposed to exert on the atmos-
phere must operate with tenfold force in a glazed house,
where the proportion of air to vegetable substance is infi-
nitely smaller than under the open sky, and where the cor-
rective agitations of the wind, and the changes of tempera-
ture, are much less perceptibly felt. The respiration of
plants, and the exhalations of putrescent vegetables, re-
quire a constant circulation of the aerial fluid, and this is
maintained by means of movable sashes, and ventilators in

318 FORCING GARDEN.

the roof of the house. Of these, sashes seem preferable,
as less apt to produce currents of cold air, which are
always injurious to vegetation. It is, indeed, a disadvan-
tage that, by sliding down over one another, they diminish
the influx of light. In winter, however, when light, from
its scarcity in our high latitude, is most valuable, they are
seldom drawn down to any extent; and, by having all the
sashes movable, the gardener, with a little attention, may
correct in a great measure any inequality in this respect.
Sliding sashes require a depth of rafter which greatly aug-
ments the shade in oblique sunshine, an evil which cannot
easily be obviated. With fixed roofs, and more especially
those which are curvilinear (to be immediately described,)
numerous ventilators are the only means by which a proper
circulation of air can be obtained. Some very intelligent
gardeners prefer having ali the sloping sashes fixed, and
ventilating chiefly by means of large windows at each end
of the house, aided by small ventilators in front.

The quantity of air to be admitted from time to time
must vary with the season, the temperature required to be
kept up, and the kinds of plants cultivated. It should be
given and withdrawn by degrees, particularly in the colder
portions of the year. The sashes or ventilators, for in-
stance, may be partially open by eight A. M., top air being
given before front air; full air may be employed about ten:
a reduction should take place before three P. M., and the
whole should be closed between four and five in the after-
noon. In summer less caution is necessary, as in many
cases the external air differs little in temperature from that
within the house. Most commonly air is given only dur-
ing the day, and is excluded at night, with perhaps an
increase of fire-heat. Judicious horticulturists will some-
times reverse this process. Knowing, for example, that in

ADMISSION OF AIR AND LIGHT. 319

the West Indies chilly and cold nights usually succeed the
hottest days, they will imitate nature, by shutting up the
house by day, and throwing it open at night. This prac-.
tice, however, supported as it is by analogy, is subject to
many limitations, and can only be followed in our climate
during the summer and autumn months. It is useful, not-
withstanding, to remember the principle, though it admits
only of partial application.

The admission of Light.—In addition to the heat with
which natural light is always accompanied, there seems to
be another property necessary to vegetation, which from
some cause hitherto unexplained, is partly deranged by its
transmission through glass. The fact, however, is evident,
from the circumstance that plants thrive better near glass
than at a distance from it, though the intensity of light is
apparently undiminished. Hence practical gardeners are
anxious to distribute their finer plants in situations as close
as possible to the glazed roofs of hot-houses.

Connected with the admission of light is the determina-
tion of the pitch or angle of elevation of the roofs of glazed
houses. it is evidently of advantage that the rays of light
should fall upon glass perpendicularly, as loss by reflection
is then a minimum, or indeed little or nothing. The angle
necessary to obtain this result is easily deducible from the
sun’s place in the ecliptic. At the equinoxes, the sun’s
meridional height above the horizon at any point of the
earth’s surface is equal to the complement of the latitude
at that place; and henee, in order that the sun’s rays may
be perpendicular at that period, it is only necessary to make
the elevation of the roof of the hot-house equal to the lati-
tude of the place. The angle for any other season may be
obtained by subtracting from the latitude the declina-
tion of the sun, if at that time te the north of the equator,

320 FORCING GARDEN.

or by adding it if to the south.* These periods are of
course selected in accordance with the time at which the
direct rays are most required. Mr. Knight proposes a
general elevation of 34° for the latitude of London, an
angle which corresponds to the 20th of May and 21st of
July. This would afford four months, from the 20th of April
to the 2ist of August, during which the angle of incidence
at mid-day would not at any time amount to 9°, while the
deviation at the winter solstice would be 48°, and the loss
of light from refiexion would be little more than 1-30. The
Rev. Mr. Wilkinson recommends. 45°, a pitch extremely
suitable for early vineries and pine-stoves. In this case,
the midsummer deviation would be 19°, and the loss 1-40,
and the midwinter deviation 30°, while the loss is nearly
the same. From these statements, however, and from an
inspection of the table already referred to, it is manifest
that much greater exactness has been sought in this matter
than is at all necessary. The reduction of the opacity of
the roof, arising from the breadth and depth of rafters and
astragals, is of much greater consequence. Accordingly,
in some glazed houses, particularly those constructed of
metallic substances, rafters have been omitted altogether ;

* The following is part of Bouguer’s Table of Reflexions. Of 1000 inci-
dent rays, when the
Angle of incidents is 75° 299 rays are reflected.

70 222
65 157
60 112
50 57
40 34
30 at
20 26.
10 25

{ 28

*

ADMISSION OF LIGHT. 321

but this kind of structure leads to considerable difficultics
in the admission of air.

We have taken it for granted that the framework is com-
posed of wood; and if prime Baltic timber be procured,
it will endure for nearly half a century. But in some
cases rafters and sashes made entirely of metal, generally
either malleable or cast iron, have been employed; and in
others, a middle course has been steered by adopting wood-
en mortices and metallic tenons. The great objection to
the use of metal for rafters and sashes is, that it is too
rapid a conductor of caloric, and too liable to contraction
and expansion from the alternations of heat and cold; the
expansion tending to render the sashes immovable, and
even to loosen the walls; and the contraction being apt to
fracture the glass, and to produce openings between the
sashes at which hoar-frost may enter.

Tn order to secure the greatest possible influx of light,
scientific horticulturists have proposed hot-houses with
curvilinear roofs. It was remarked by Sir George Stuart
Mackenzie, to whom the merit of the proposal is primarily
due, that if we could find a form for a glass-roof, such that
the sun’s rays should be perpendicular to some part
of it, not on two days, but during the whole year, that form
would be the best. Such a figure is the sphere, and he
therefore proposes a quarter segment of a globe, or semi-
dome, the radius of which is about fifteen feet. The frame
for the glass-work is formed of equal ribs of hammered
iron, fastened into an iron plate in the parapet wall, and
fixed-at top into an iron ring connected with the back wall.
There are no rafters or sliding sashes, but air is admitted
by ventilators in the parapet and back walls.

This form of hot-house roofs was warmly patronized by
the late Mr. Knight, gag 2 however, was of opinion that

S22 FORCING GARDEN.

the house proposed by Sir George Mackenzie was too high,
in proportion to its length and breadth, and therefore
recommended a smaller section of a sphere, with a greater
radius. His dimensions are forty feet long, fourteen wide
in the centre, and, including the front parapet, twelve feet
high. The late Mr. Loudon, who, it is believed, was the
first that actually erected hot-houses on this principle, pro-
posed several subvarieties of form. He describes (dneye.
of Gard.) the acuminated semidome, the acuminated semi-
globe, the semiellipse, and the parallelogram with curved
roof and ends. With Mr. Loudon, we should certainly
prefer the last mentioned. A considerable number of
curvilinear houses have been erected in the southern part of
the island, particularly as repositories for ornamental plants,
such as in the Royal Gardens at Kew, Loddiges’ nurseries
at Hackney, the London Horticultural Society’s Garden,
the Manchester Botanic Garden, the Duke of Northum-
berland’s at Syon House, and in various other private
gardens.

As far as we are aware, no extensive experimental in-
vestigation of the comparative merits of curvilinear houses
has hitherto been made. A writer in the Gardener's
Magazine (vol. ii.) states that he found it necessary, dur-
ing the summer months, to shade his pine-apples growing
in such a house, from nine or ten o’clock in the morning to
three or four in the afternoon, in order to prevent the plants
from assuming a rusty tinge and unhealthy appearance.
Another practical gardener complains (vol. v.) that ‘“ the
- circular roof concentrated the sun’s rays so immoderately
that the tops of the grape-vines were scorched, even when
the doors and ventilators at the back were open.” This,
he says, was always the case in summer; and in winter, it
was with difficulty, and only with the assistance of bast

CURVILINEAR ROOFS. 323

mats, that he could keep out frost. With others, how-
ever, the curvilinear form has given great satisfaction, A
considerable portion of the superior lightness of the cur-
vilinear houses is due to the absence of rafters; and as
these may also be dispensed with in plain roofs, the effect
of these ought to be deducted in making a comparison.
Perhaps, when everything else is rightly arranged, there is
generally enough of light in common houses. Scarcely
any species of fruit, when cultivated in the open air, is ex-
posed during the whole day to the action of the solar rays,
but must unavoidably be shaded at times by leaves and
branches. It is difficult to suppose that, in respect to
illumination, there is any remarkable deficiency in pits and
glazed houses, in which have been ripened pine-apples and
clusters of grapes, at least rivaling, if not surpassing, the
produce of the most favored of their native climes. In
the facility of admitting air, in the quantity and conveni-
ence of trellises, and in other interior accommodations, it
cannot be disputed that the old forms have rather the ad-
vantage.

It has already been said that hot-house roofs of the com-
mon kind are sometimes constructed without rafters or
movable sashes. A considerable increase of light is thus
obtained; but this benefit is attended with an almost in-
superable defect, namely, the difficulty of producing a free
and equable circulation of air. It is indeed probable that
the common or plain-roofed hot-house will always continue
the favorite form with practical gardeners. In it the raft-
ers are arranged at equal distances, and are made of a deep
and narrow form, with their under edges rounded off.
Nicol recommends that they should be made two and one-
fourth inches broad by ten inches deep. Perhaps they
might be a little broader and shallower with advantage.

324 FORUING GARDEN.

The size of the sashes: may depend on the magnitude of
the house; their breadth, however, should range from three
and a half to four feet. Except in very large houses,
sashes are always disposed in two tiers, the upper row
sliding down over the under one. Where there are venti-
lators in the front wall or upright glass, the sashes in the
upper tier alone require to be movable, and, for the sake
of convenience, they should be made considerably shorter
than the others. They are furnished with cords, pulleys,
rollers, and weights, though the last, with no very prudent
regard to economy, are sometimes omitted. Formerly, all
hot-houses were constructed with upright sashes in front.
One of the most eminent garden architects of the present
day, (Mr. Atkinson,) has discontinued the practice; and,
except in ornamental structures, it is hard to say why it
should not be laid aside altogether: for while upright
sashes certainly tend to weaken the fabric, and increase its
expense, their utility is at least problematical.

Glass is the transparent material universally employed,
for it is at once a ready transmitter of the rays of the sun,
and a bad conductor of caloric, or it admits light, and re-
tains the heat generated by flues. That some tint of blue
or green would lessen the scorching effects of the rays
seems generally admitted ; but the precise tint has not yet
been satisfactorily established. Formerly the panes of
glass employed were of large size, but small panes are
found to be more economical, being less liable to break,
and more easily replaced. It is believed that a pane seven
inches in breadth by six in length is the cheapest form in
which good glass can be obtained. In glazing, it is im-
portant to keep the overlaps of the panes of small dimen-
sions, perhaps from one-fourth to one-eighth of an inch in
breadth. This diminishes the breakage which arises from

THE VINERY. * Q5

tue expansion attending the freezing of water detained be-
tween the laps by capillary attraction. As a further pre-
ventive, the interstices are sometimes filled with putty, and
occasionally with laps of lead or copper. This effects a
considerable saving of glass and of heat, but imposes on
the gardener the duty of increased attention in preventing
the stagnation of air. The framework of hot-houses should
be well coated with oil-paint; white-lead of a stone color
being preferred.

In closing these preliminary remarks, it is proper to ob-
serve that although the construction of a forcing-house is
always a matter of considerable importance, it is not the
only nor even the most important condition necessary to
insure success. Much care in management, skill in prun-
ing, and some knowledge of physiology, must be possessed
and applied, in order to obtain abundant and regular crops
of fine fruit.

The more minute details respecting the structure of
glazed houses, we shall notice along with the peculiar cul-
ture required in each; and we shall take them in the fol-
lowing order: The Vinery or Grape-house, the Peach-
house, the Cherry-house, the Fig-house, the Pinery, the
Orangery, and the Melonry. The green-house and other
botanical structures will come more appropriately under
review in treating of the Flower Garden.

Tue Vinery. Structure.—The vinery is susceptible
of a great variety of form; and, indeed, in this respect,
seems more pliable than any other forcing-house. That
form, however, which has been most commonly used, is the
plane roof with sliding sashes; and such is the success with
which it has been employed, and such its convenience for
every purpose, that it is not probable it will soon be gene-

326 - FORCING GARDEN.

Fig. 36.

MUM

a, Hot-water apparatus in the vinery.

b, Boiler for the vinery.

c, Boiler for the hot-water apparatus of the mushroom-house.

d, Pit below the passage of the mushroom-house for foreing rhubarb, sea-
kale, &e.

e, Ventilators for the yinery.

THE VINERY. ay

rally supplanted. The section of the peach-house at page
333 will convey an idea of the usual configuration of the
vinery. On the preceding page, Fig. 36 represents a sec-
tion and a ground-plan of a curvilinear vinery (having a
mush-room-house behind), heated by hot water.

A vinery, with flues and two furnaces, is generally fifty
feet long, twelve or fourteen wide within, the height of the
back wall being ten or twelve feet. Where there is only
one surface, or where a hot-water apparatus is employed,
the length of the house should not exceed thirty-five or
forty feet. Small divisions are to be preferred; for where
there is a considerable extent of glass, the cultivator, by
applying his fires to the different divisions in succession,
can prolong the crop from May to December. The para-
pet wall in front is commonly arched, or built on lintels,
supported by stone pillars; so that the vines, which are
planted inside the house, close by the parapet, may send
abioad their roots in search of nutriment. Sometimes the
vines are planted without, and introduced into the house
by slanting apertures in the front wall; but the former
method, where possible, is the more eligible. The trellis
used for training is generally formed of wires drawn across
the rafters, at the distance of a foot from each other. Of

Fig. 37.

Fa a

j i —'—e $4 Ly)

328 FORCING GARDEN.

late the trellis has frequently been divided into portions
of a moderate breadth, placed vertically under the rafter.
This form is called the hanging trellis, and is described at
length in the Lond. Hortic. Trans., vol. vi. A section of
one variety has this appearance. (See Fig. 37.)

This form leaves the middle of the sash open to the sun s
rays, and allows the back wall to be covered with bearing
wood, a thing which, in other circumstances, can scarcely
be done with any beneficial effect. It must, however, be
admitted that, according to the experience of some, this
arrangement is inferior to the common trellis.

It is of importance that the included soil and front bor-
der of a vinery should be fresh and rich, and of a consider-
able depth. Mr. Griffen (in Lond. Hortic: Trans.) recom-
mends as a compost “one-half of good loamy soil with its
turf, one-quarter of rich old dung, and one-quarter of
brick and lime rubbish; the turf well rotted, and the whole
well incorporated.” Plants raised from cuttings, and pre-
pared for two or three years in pots, are preferred for the
furnishing of a vinery ; and when planted inside the house,
there should not be fewer than two plants to each sash.

It is scarcely necessary to enumerate the particular
varieties of the grape-vine, as adapted for a vinery, for
every good variety deserves a place where there is room,
and all those which have been already mentioned are occa-
sionally employed. It may be remarked, however, that the
kinds should be assorted according to the order of their
ripening. The early grapes, such as the Muscadines,
should be planted in a house by themselves; those of a
medium character, the Frontignacks and Black Hamburgh,
for example, may occupy a second; while the late Tokay,
the Muscat of Alexandria, Nice, Syrian, and others, would
be fit inmates for a third. This would produce a regular

GRAPE-VINE—PRUNING AND TRAINING. 329

succession, and admit a uniformity of treatment in each
house. Where there is not a suite of vineries, but only
one large house, the late varieties should be placed near
the entrance of the flues, where the temperature is higher.
Pruning and Training.—V ery numerous have been the
directions given in reference to these particulars; but we
cannot here go into such details, nor is it necessary. The
great object is the reproduction of bearing, that is, annual
wood, over the whole surface of the house. When this is
accomplished, the next matter to be determined is the num-
ber of eyes or buds to be left on each shoot, that 1s,
whether we shall adopt the short or the long system of
pruning. The former is most allied to the practice of
foreign vineyards, and has been most successfully employed
in this country. According to this method, all the lateral
shoots are cut down to single eyes, as described in Lond.
Flortic. Trans., iv., 104. For a particular description of
the dong system, we may refer to the same volume, p. 246,
or to Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gardening, second
edition, p. 548. ‘To these references, we shall only add a
few general remarks. (1.) It ought to be the great aim of
the British gardener to make his vines grow as luxuriantly
as possible; for the good quality of the grapes, when pro-
perly ripened, is generally commensurate with the strength
of the shoots and size of the berries. The borders should
therefore be made rich; but they ought to be rather wide
than deep, deep planting being adverse to the ripening of
the fruit. (2.) In order to secure a proper degree of vigor,
vines should be limited in extent and pruned during winter,
rather severely than otherwise. To enable us to circum-
scribe the plants, it would be well to introduce as many
separate plants into the vinery as can be done without con-
fusion. For an illustration of this principle, we may refer

3380 FORCING GARDEN.

to the practice of the eigrerons of Fontainebleau, as de-
scribed in the Pomone Francaise, or in the Lond. Hortic,
Trans., vol. vii, (3.) From the peculiar mode of growth
in the grape-vine, the bearing-branches have a tendency to
recede from the centre to the extremities, and are often
found im abundance only at the top of the trellis, Every
young shoot near the front of the house should therefore
be carefully husbanded, and cut back by way of reserve.
Old wood ought to be removed as frequently as possible;
and the skillful pruner will took at least two years before
him. Nothing contributes more to regularity in the sue-
cession of bearing wood than simplicity in pruning and
training; and, therefore, all bending, and twisting, and
traversing of branches should be avoided.

The summer pruning consists in removing with the
fingers useless lateral shoots, and especially buds not. pro-
ducing shoots, and in pinching off the tender points of the
bearing branches. The extent to which these bearing
branches may be allowed to run must depend on their
vigor, and the position which they hold in the plant. Some-
times it may be needful to leave them ten or twelve feet
long, but, in general, two or three feet will be sufficient.
The shorter the better They seldom or never fail to send
out secondary laterals from their points: these and the
others wie succeed them are stopped at the second or
even first eye, and the operation is continued until vegeta-
tion ceases. When the young grapes begin to swell, the
clusters are thinned out, that is, berries are removed when-
ever they are too much crowded together, and the shoulders
or sides of the bunches are supported by means of slender
threads of bast-mat attached to some fixed point above,
The quality and weight of clusters should be regarded
rather than their number. Nothing seems more contempt-

PEACH HOUSE, 331

ible than numbers of small and ill-ripened bunches of grapes,
ameared as they often are, with dust and honey dew.
Avarice not unfrequently cheats iteclf in this matter; and
it generally happens in the vinery, a9 elsewhere, that not
he who desires most obtaing most, The ripening, color,
and flavor of grapes on the tree are waid to be promoted by
removing «a portion of the foliage; thia is to be done, how-
ever, only after the fruit has attained full size; and by
some it is, with apparent justice, alleged that the foliage
ought never to be abridged, If it be abundant, and ex-
posed to the sun, the grapes will come to perfection although
shaded by the foliage. Sometimes the berries, when awell-
ing, seem suddenly arrested in their progress to maturity,
and remain stunted and shriveled, This affection is called
shanking by gardeners, and is generally ageribed to damp
and noisome vapor, or the want of due circulation of pure
air.

The forcing of the earliest vinery may commence in
January. At first the temperature may vary from 50° to
55° Fahrenheit in the mornings and evenings. When the
buds have burst, it may be raised to 70°, and in the flower-
ing season it may be kept at 75%. At this period it is
necessary that the air should be preserved moist by frequent
steamings. Upon the appearance of color in the fruit, the
waterings should cease, and air be copiously admitted. In
the early vineries, it is necessary to continue the fire-heat
without intermission: in the later houses this is not re-
quired, but it must be used occasionally, even in warm
weather, to obviate the effects of damp,

Tne Puacn-Hovse.—A peach-house, intended to be
commanded by one furnace, is generally about forty feet
long, ten or twelve feet wide, and fourteen feet high; but

332 FORCING GARDEN.

these dimensions may be varied considerably, according to
the time at which the crop is desired to come in. For
early forcing, perhaps twenty-five or thirty feet in length,
and seven or eight in breadth, are sufficient; while a house
in which the operations of nature are only to be slightly
accelerated may be extended to fifty feet. As in the
vinery, the fruit wall is arched, to permit the egress of the
roots to the neighboring border. Upon this front wall is
usually placed a range of upright sashes, which are sur-
mounted by the sloping rafters of the roof. A common
form of a peach-house is annexed, the upper figure showing
the vertical section, and the under one the ground plan;
a, a are the flues, 6 is the table trellis, c the trellis on the
back wall; along with which a hanging trellis, represented
at p. 327, is sometimes employed, although this is not
approved of by many. The flue, which is built on pillars
and returns on itself, occupies the centre of the house.
The trees are trained to the two trellises 6 and c, and to
the hanging trellis, if such be in use. Against the back
wall three or four dwarf trees are planted, with interme-
diate riders, the latter being altogether removed at the end
of four or five years at furthest. These, with three for
the front trellis, make in all nine or ten trees for each
house.

The figure on page 334 represents another form of the
peach-house, not so generally used as the former, but of
equal if not superior merit. We have supposed it heated
by a water apparatus a, @, but that is not an essential
matter, as a common flue is equally applicable. There is
no upright front glass, nor any trellis on the back wall,
the trees being planted in front, and trained on a wire
trellis 6, attached to the rafters, and covering the whole
surface of the sloping roof. As the peach tree is not

PEACH-HOUSE. Baa

1 (oo) oY
Zi Tiong

Vy

Y,

found to extend much more than twelve or thirteen feet on
the open wall, the length of the rafter, inside measure,
need not do more than approach to fourteen feet. It is
obvious that in such a house the trees must enjoy an
equable, and, from their proximity to the glass, an advan-
tageous degree of light. Besides, being planted close to

334 FORCING GARDEN.

Fig. 39,

Y

Lis

the front wall, they are not exposed to have their roots
stunted in passing under the flues, and through the inte-
rior soil of the house, which, in spite of every assiduity in
watering and manuring, is apt to become hard and impo-
verished. Further, it has been estimated that, as far as
roof and glass are concerned, four or even five such houses
may be erected at the same expense as three of the com-
mon form.

In Holland, peaches are forced in pits resembling the
common hotbed or melon-pit of this country. The trees
are trained on a trellis-work near the glass, and the air is
heated by the fermentation of stable-dung linings. The
method has been partially adopted in this country, with,
however, the use of hot water. When garden architects
shall cease to be anxious about making all forcing-houses
ornamental structures, this will probably be the general
form in which early and tender peaches will be cultivated.

The pruning and training of peach trees in the peach-
house does not differ materially from the practice out of
doors. The sashes having been removed in the autumn
are replaced about New Year’s day. TFire-heat is com-
monly applied about the beginning or middle of February;
but where there is a large suit of houses, and an extended

EXOTIC FRUIT. 335

succession is wanted, forcing, as it then truly becomes,
may begin a month sooner. At first the temperature is
kept about 45°, but it is afterwards gradually increased to
50° or 55° Fahrenheit. While the trees are in flower, and
till the fruit be set, the house is occasionally steamed,
either by sprinkling water on the warm flues, or by admit-
ting the vapor from the pipes, where steam is employed
for heating. After this period the foliage is washed, from
time to time with the garden engine. When the fruit is
stoned, or the kernels have been formed, the temperature
is raised to about 60°. Water is now copiously supplied
to the border: the fruit is thinned out; the various opera-
tions of disbudding and tying are performed, and air is
admitted in abundance. After the end of April, little
fire-heat is required for the peach-house. The trees often
suffer from mildew. From this malady an application of
soap-lather is one of the most effectual remedies ; the best
preventives consist in keeping the borders of the peach-
house clear, and in good condition as to fresh soil, and in
taking care that nothing be permitted to obstruct the free
circulation of air and full admission of sun. If aphides
infest the house, a fumigation with tobacco should be
resorted to.

It may here be remarked that by curious cultivators
several uncommon kinds of exotic fruits are occasionally
grown with success in conservatories, vineries, hot-houses,
or other glazed structures, along with the more regular or
usual inmates. Among these may be mentioned the
Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica ; the Jamrosade, Eugenia
jambos ; the Purple Granadilla Passiflora edulis; the
Granadilla vine, P. quadrangularis ; the May-apple, P
incarnata ; the Water-lemon, P. lawrifolia; and the Sweet

336 FORCING GARDEN.

Calabash, P. madiformis; the Papaw, Carica Papaya ;
the Banana, Musa sapientum ; and M. Cavendish, which
last yields its fruit readily, while the plant does not attain
an inconvenient size. The Leechee, Nepheliwm Litcha,
has occasionslly ripened in our stoves; the Longyen,
Euphoria tongana, bas yielded its fruit at Syon House ;
and the Mango, Mangifera indica, at the garden of Harl
Powis. The China Guava, Psidiwm cattlecanuwm, fruits
freely in the vinery of the Experimental Garden at Edin-
burgh: the fruit is round, about the size of a small plum;
of a fine claret color; the pulp soft, only a little firmer
than that of a strawberry, and of a pleasant subacid flavor,
making a most desirable preserve. The Carambola,
Averrhoa Carambola, of the Kast Indies, has of late been
added to our exotic fruits, by Mr. Batemen of Knypersley,
near Congleton: the fruit is of the size and shape of a
duck’s egg, but with longitudinal ribs on the sides; either
in tarts or as preserves, the flavor is excellent. It may
be noticed that, both from the descriptions of intelligent
travelers and from the preserved fruit being sent to Brit-
ain, we know that various species of exotic fruit-trees
exist, which have not yet reached us in a living state; and
the introduction of these might form an object of innocent,
pleasing, and commendable ambition to enterprising and
wealthy horticulturists,

The Cuerry-Hovsz, i its general arrangements, re-
sembles the peach-house, with the exception of the front
trellis, the place of which is commonly occupied by a stage
for pots of early strawberries or kidney-beans. The cherry-
trees are trained against the back wall; the house should
therefore be narrow, and the roof steep. The operation of
forcing generally commences early in January, with avery

THE FIG-HOUSE. Sot

moderate temperature. Air is admitted freely till the
flowers begin to expand, when great caution becomes neces-
sary. When the fruit is setting, the temperature is kept
as steadily as possible at 50°; after it is set, abundance of
water is applied to the roots and foliage of the trees. When
the fruit is coloring, water is almost entirely withheld, and
air freely admitted. During the whole process of forcing
cherries, any excessive heat from the sun’s rays must be
carefully guarded against by shading or by admitting of
air. The kind of cherry usually preferred for forcing is
the common May-duke. A cherry-house ought to form a
part of every large garden establishment; for nothing
more signally distinguishes the tables of the opulent, in
March and April, than ripe cherries appearing along with
strawberries in the dessert at that season ef the year.

The Fic-Hovse scarcely differs in form and manage-
ment from the Cherry-house, the trees being trained to a
back trellis, with the additien, however, of dwarf standard
trees in front. The second crop is often the most produc-
tive. In 1810, we are told, the royal tables were supplied
with more than 200 baskets of figs, 50 of which were from
the first crop, and 150 from the second. It is seldom,
however, that a separate house is erected for this fruit.
The fig succeeds very well as a dwarf standard between the
front flues of a vinery, provided the roof be not too closely
covered with the foliage of the vines. Of late, small
standard figs have very commonly been grown in large
pots, fourteen or fifteen inches in diameter, and placed in
any of the forcing-houses. In this way considerable crops
of fruit have been raised. The Figwe blanche and the
Marseilles are the sorts considered best adapted for forcing.

15*

338 FORCING GARDEN.

The Orance Tripe (Citrus) are cultivated in Britain,
rather as objects of curiosity and beauty than for the pur-
pose of affording a supply of fruit. Commerce with Por-
tugal, Spain, Italy, and China, has brought this class of
fruits within the reach of every one; and the copious im-
portations which annually take place have no doubt dis-
couraged the cultivation of the plants. A few orange-trees
are nevertheless to be met with in most collections, and in
large and sumptuous gardens it is not uncommon to meet
with glazed houses specially set apart for their reception.

The following brief notices of some of the cultivated spe-
cies of the genus Citrus are derived principally from Mr.
G. Don’s General System of Botany and Gardening, a
work evincing singular accuracy and unwearied research,
and from M. Risso’s excellent paper in the Annales du
Muséum, vol. xx.

C. Medica, the Citron, the Cedrate of the Italians, is a
small evergreen tree. The fruit is large, of an oval form,
and covered with a rough skin or rind, which is charged
with a highly fragrant oil. ‘The citron is generally used
in confections. It is supposed to be a native of Media,
and will scarcely ripen without protection in Britain.
Three subvarieties of citron are described by Risso.

C. Limetta, the Sweet Lime.—This is rather a tall tree,
with diverging branches. The flower is of a fine white
color, composed of five oblong petals. The fruit is globose,
with a black, nipple-like protuberance at the apex; it has
a firm rind, and sweet pulp, and the color is pale yellow.
The lime is a native of Asia, but cultivated in Italy.
Seven varieties have been described.

C. Liamonum, the Lemon.—The petioles of the leaves
somewhat winged; fruit oblong, with a thin rind adhering
closely to the very acid pulp., This, like the preceding, is

THE ORANGE TRIBE. 339

a native of Asia, but is cultivated in the south of Europe.
There are numerous varieties,

C. Aurantium, Sweet Orange-——The petioles almost
naked; fruit globose, with a thin rind and sweet pulp.
Risso bas enumerated nineteen varieties; of which the
principal are, the China, the Portugal, and the Maltese.
The last has a blood-colored pulp, with rich juice, and is
now much in request. The Tangerine orange may be cul-
tivated successfully in a common flower-pot, producing
fruit of delicious quality for the dessert.

C. Bigarda, Seville or Bitter Orange, the most hardy
of the tribe. The petioles winged; fruit globose, with a
thin rind, and bitter juice. This sort is employed for
making marmalade, and is also used in medicine. ‘Twelve
varieties have been described.

C. Decumana, the Shaddock.—The petioles broad, with
cordate wings; fruit large, round, weighing from ten to
fourteen pounds, with a thick rind. This fruit was car-
ried by Captain Shaddock from China to the British West
Indies, where it first acquired the name which it here bears.
It is now cultivated not only in the West India Islands,
but extensively in South America, Four sorts are enume-
rated. Of all the Citrus tribe, this has the most beautiful
foliage, and it is therefore not improperly selected for fill-
ing the back wall of a vinery.

The Orangery, in England, seldom differs in form, even
where it is a separate structure, from that of the green-
house. Most commonly, the few orange plants which are
kept are grown in large pots, or in tubs or boxes, and oc-
cupy a place with other exotics on the green-house shelves.
When the trees are of considerable size, the boxes or square
tubs are so constructed that they can be partially taken to
pieces without materially disturbing the roots of the plants;

840 FORCING GARDEN.

and the soil can then be renewed or meliorated on the dif-
ferent sides at successive periods. Of late, such tubs have
been constructed of large slates; these have an elegant
appearance, and they are equally convenient, the sides
being removable as in the wooden structures. At some
places, the orange-trees are planted in conservatories
erected for the purpose. In the neighborhood of Paris,
the orangeries are little better than dark sheds, in which
the trees are kept protected during the winter months, light
and air being given only when the weather permits. At
Woodhall, in Lanarkshire, they were trained against trel-
lises, under glass, and in this way produced abundant crops
of fine fruit. We have there seen a plant of the St.
Michael’s orange, twenty-four feet wide and eighteen feet
high, clothed with fruit.

Middle-sized plants are frequently imported trom the
Italian nursery gardens, and this is the readiest way of
procuring large specimens at a cheaprate. The plants are
closely packed in boxes, with some grass or moss around
the roots. Upon their arrival they are in a withered and
dead-like state, and require considerable care and manage-
ment to recover them from the effects of the voyage. When
propagated in this country, they are budded on citron or
Seville orange stocks; the former recommended by Miller
as preferable. The seeds of the stocks are sown in pots,
and the growth of the seedlings is aided, during the first
and second summer, by the application of slight bottom-
heat in a hotbed frame. These are usually budded in
August. The late Mr. Henderson, gardener at Woodhall,
used to graft his trees, employing cions formed of the wood
of the second year. He also propagated by cuttings, con-
sidering this the quickest mode of obtaining plants. We
may add that this most successful cultivator of the orange

\

THE PINE-APPLE. 341

tribe made it a rule to keep his trees rather cool, and with
plenty of air in mild weather, till the fruit was fairly set;
after which he found that he could apply more heat with-
out the risk of the fruit failing.

The orange-tree prospers in a rich, fresh, and rather
strong soil; and, in this country, it is the practice to mix
with it a considerable portion of well-rotted manure. When
grown in pots or boxes, the plant should be shifted, and
the earth partly renewed, every spring. In summer, co-
pious waterings are given, and the leaves are syringed once
or twice a week. The heads are kept thin, and any branches
which inconveniently cross each other areremoved. When
planted against trellises, they are trained in the fan form ;
and in laying in the shoots, allowance is to be made for the
size of the leaves in the different species.

Tue Pine-Areite (Bromelia Ananas lL. or Ananassa
sativa) is comparatively of recent introduction into Bri-
tain. It was nearly unknown to English horticulturists in
the beginning of the eighteenth century; for Thoresby, the
Leeds antiquary, kept a leaf of the pine-apple in his mu-
seum as a curiosity. It is now largely and successfully
cultivated in all the principal gardens in Britain. Its cul-
ture requires all the ingenuity, judgment, and watchfulness
of the skillful and diligent horticulturist; and we shall,
therefore, treat of it at considerable length. It derives its
name from the general resemblance of its fruit to a large cone
of a pine-tree. The fruit is a kind of pulpy strobilus,
formed of coadunate berries, and crowned at top with a tuft
of small pointed leaves. The flavor of the pulp is of the
most exquisite kind. The plant is herbaceous, and the fruit-
stem, which generally appears in the second or third year,
is surrounded with long serrated leaves, resembling those

342 FORCING GARDEN,

of some species of aloe. The fruit grown in Britain is
considered equal in all good qualities, and generally supe-
rior in size, to that reared in tropical countries. The
Lond. Hortic. Catalogue enumerates 56 varieties: of these
the following may be deemed most worthy of notice.

The Queen Pine is very generally cultivated. Its fruit
is of a cylindrical or tankard shape, of a yellowish color
inclining to orange, and sometimes weighs three pounds; it
is, at the same time, of fine flavor. This kind produces
with greater certainty than most others, and the fruit may be
easily ripened in fifteen or eighteen months from the plant-
ing of the crown or offset. It is therefore the most useful
of all the pines. A sub-variety called Repley’s Queen is
also excellent.

The Black Antigua has leaves armed with large spines:
the flowers are purple; the fruit cylindrical, averaging five
pounds weight. It should be cut a little before it be quite
ripe

The Black Jamaica, or Old Jamaica.—In this variety
the spines on the leaves are small; the flowers purple; the
fruit oblong, averaging about four pounds. This is an ex-
cellent kind, and is considered the best sort for fruiting
during the winter months.

The New Jamaica is rather an inferior kind, but is pret-
ty good when ripened in the summer time.

The Brown-leaved Sugar-loaf is a capital black va-
riety; and the Envidle a showy and useful pine, with large
flat pips, and the fruit often attaining a considerable size.

The St. Vincent’s, or, as it is sometimes called, the
Green Olive, has middle-sized spines, purple flowers, and
pyramidal fruit, which average about two pounds and a
half. It succeeds well as a winter fruit.

The White Providence has small spines, dark purple

THE PINE-APPLE. 343

flowers, and oblong fruit of a large size, averaging, when
well grown, seven pounds weight, and sometimes exceeding
twelve pounds. The color of the fruit is at first brownish-
gray, but at ripening it becomes of a pale yellow. The
pulp is yellow, melting, and abounds with quick lively
juice, but not equal in flavor to some of the other kinds.

The Trinidad is remarkable for the great size of its
fruit, which is said to attain sometimes to the weight of
twenty-six pounds. Its average is stated in the Hort. Cat.
to be twelve pounds; but wehave never seen it above half
that weight. The spines are middle-sized, the flowers lilac,
and the fruit pyramidal. Apart from its magnitude, it is,
like the preceding, only a secondary fruit.

The following may also be named as good sorts: Bagot’s
Seedling, Russian Globe, Green King with smooth leaves,
Striped Queen, Sierra Leone, Brown Sugar-loaf, and
Orange Sugar-loaf. And three or four more, though of
inferior quality, may be noticed for their beauty or curi-
osity, viz, the Blood-red, Otaheite, Scarlet, Welbeck
Seedling, and the Havana, the fruit of which last keeps
long, and has sometimes been successfully imported into
this country from Cuba.

Structure for growing Pine-apples.—The pine-apple has
generally been found to require cultivation for two or three
years before it perfects its fruit ; its culture has, in conse-
quence, been divided into three periods—propagation, suc-
cessional preparation, and fruiting; and each of these peri-
ods has its corresponding structure, viz., the nursing-pit,
the succession-house or pit, and the fruiting-house.

The nursing-pit has occasionally assumed a great variety
of forms, respecting which, however, it is not necessary to
go into minute detail. For summer use, a large glazed
frame, placed upon.a hotbed of stable litter and tanners’

344 FORCING GARDEN,

bark, is perhaps the best hitherto devised. The Alderstor
Melon-pit, and Atkinson’s Melon-pit, described under the
head Melonry, are likewise very suitable for this purpose.
In winter, it is desirable to have the assistance of fire-heat,
either from flues, or, what is better, from hot water; though
this fire-heat is not indispensable.

The szccesscon-pit performs the
same functions as the nursing-pit,
but at a more advanced stage of

Fig. 40,

LLL LLL LLL LOLOL
q

the growth of the plant, and con-
sequently requires an increase of
size. With this difference, At-
kinson’s Melon-pit does very well
for summer use. In colder sea-
sons, we should prefer a pit simi-
lar to that represented on the mar-
gin; in which a hot-water appa-
ratus on the siphon principle is
G

employed to heat the atmosphere
of the pits, and the bottom-heat
is communicated by the eircula-
tion of hot water from the same
HL tet boiler, in open troughs resting ol
“Ni a 4 the bottom of the pit. The boiler
| | a is placed nearly on a level with
TIL \aleaatix\ox|o| the bottom of the pit. 6, Pipes
le F on the siphon principle for warm-

ing the air of the pit. CC,
Troughs for communieating the
VW bottom-heat, placed in the bot-
$/ tom of the pit on a level with
the boiler. The water is drawn from the boiler to the
ends of the troughs d d by small movable siphons

PINE-APPLE. 345

which promote its circulation. The bed e, in which
the plants are plunged, is suported by a framework of wood,
resting on brick piers between the troughs. A boiler
placed in the centre is sufficient for a range of sixty feet.
Pits such as these have been in successful operation for the
last two years in the gardens of the Earl of Hopetoun, and
were designed by Mr. Charles H. J. Smith, landscape gar-
dener and garden architect, of whose assistance the writer
of this treatise has had much satisfaction in availing him-
self, in the designing of the illustrative sketches and dia-
grams. Mr. Smith also proposes another form of a suc-
-eession-pit, exhibited below, entirely heated by hot water.

Fig. 41.

The surface-heat is supplied by pipes in front; the bottom-
heat is kept up by small pipes from the boiler, passing
through cisterns of water extending the whole length of
the pit. In this case it would be necessary to apply the
heat only during the day. The only succession-house, or
that generally in use till within the last fifteen years, does
not differ materially from the common pine-stove : but,
owing to its great waste of heat, it either is or ought to be
entirely laid aside.

In the fruiting-house, more room, greater height, and a
more powerful temperature, are requisite; and to attain
these objects, many varieties of structure have been de-
vised. We shall notice those only which are most worthy
of attention. The first we shall mention is Baldwin’s

fruiting-pit, of which a section is given on the next page.
15*

346 FORCING GARDEN.

The roof is unequally ridged, the north or shortor side be
ing slated and furnished with ventilators, to admit air.
The sashes are immovable, and the laps of the panes are
closely puttied. There is a path within, and a single turn

Fig. 42.

of a flue behind. We should prefer the following form,
in which there are ventilators, @ a, and a hot-water appa-
ratus surrounding the whole pit. The dimensions of this

may be fifty feet long, and nine feet wide, the glass being two
feet and a half from the curb of the bark pit in front, and
five feet behind. We next present a section of a pine-pit
with a curvilinear roof, in which the astragals are parallel.
A segment of an elliptical arch somewhat less than a quad-
rant, the origin of the curve being on the front wall, seems
better adapted for a pit than any portion of a circle. This

PINE-APPLE—BOTTOM-HEAT. 347

Fig. 44, '

j
j
Y;
Y
]
MATTIE", ] g
G

pit is supposed to be heated by a small steam-pipe passing
through a large iron tank or cistern a, filled with water, on
the same principle as exhibited in the figure at page 305.
The old-fashioned pine-stove was a lofty structure, in
the vinery form, with front sashes. It used to be forty or
fifty feet long, and twelve or fourteen feet broad, and was
commanded by two flues. In addition to the pine-plants
in the pit, the roof was also partly covered with vines, a
practice justly condemned by the late Mr. Nicol in his
“Forcing Gardener.” We are also disposed to agree with
that experienced writer regarding the disuse of the pine-

Fig. 45.

stove itself. Besides other grievous faults, a single house
affords too little room; and it is a matter of experience

348 FORCING GARDEN

that, where the stock of pine-plants is not extensive, cer-
tain and abundant crops of fruit cannot be expected. In-
stead, therefore, of a succession and fruiting-house of the
old form, with two fires each, it would be better to have
four pits with single fires. There might be two succession-
pits of the forms represented, supra, pages 344, 345, and
two fruiting-pits similar to the figures on page 346. These
would contain a much greater number of plants than two
pine-stoves, would be little more expensive in erection, and,
as the number of fires is the same, would not consume
much more fuel.

Bottom-Heat.—As a substitute for the warmth absorbed
by the earth from the powerful rays of the sun in tropical
countries, the pots of pine-plants are generally plunged in
a bed composed of tanners’ bark, decaying leaves, or other
fermenting substances. Tanners’ bark is most commonly
used. Speechly and Nicol prefer leaves shed by hardwood
trees in autumn. Others form the under and greater part
of the bed with stable-litter. Whatever substance is em-
ployed, it should not be put into the bed until the first
violent heat of fermentation have passed; or, if circum-
stances impose a necessity of using it in a recent state, it
should be largely mixed with old materials of the same
kind. A layer of exhausted bark, ten or twelve inches
thick, should be laid on the surface of the bed. In pine-
stoves, the curb of the bark pit is usually elevated about
three feet above the common level of the house, and has a
gentle slope towards the front; in pine-pits, however, it
approaches more closely to the glass. The bark is com-
monly five or six feet deep; but it may be questioned
whether this depth is not excessive and unnecessary. A
bed about three and a half feet deep would probably be

PINE-APPLE——BOTTOM HEAT. 349

more convenient, and afford a heat sufficient both in in-
tensity and duration for any useful purpose.

We have already shown how a system of tubes trans-
mitting steam or hot water may be made available for the

Fig. 46.

YO
Mi a HZ
Al lie sat

WSS

BKK G

W6@&&EK CK
SS
MG. CG

YW YY

NO

N

AE

7

Y es
F Wr
se 1 iy
Y) Ya
YY, Nig
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ZA 5aR
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production of bottom-heat. There is another method wor-
thy of at least a cursory notice. Its invention is due to

350 FORCING GARDEN,

Mr. M’Murtrie, and it will be understood by the section
and plan given in the preceding figures.

A shallow bark-bed, about two feet deep, rests upon an
arched chamber of single brick. 1, is the fire-place; 2, a
fire-flue running along the whole length of the chamber 4,
which is also kept full of steam by means of the boiler and
pipe 3; the aperture 5, admits steam and heat into the air
of the pit, and of these there is one, both in back and front,
under each sash, capable of being stopped at pleasure.
The waste-pipe 6, allows the steam to escape, when the
apertures marked 5, are shut. By the return of the flue
2, the atmosphere of the house is heated ; and by the joint
action of the inclosed part of the flue, and of the steam in
the chamber, an abundant and salubrious bottom-heat is
easily maintained.

The proper management of bottom-heat is a matter of
some difficulty, and in this there have been more failures
than in any other part of the pine-apple culture. The
heat arising from violent fermentation is greater than the
tender roots can bear, and, if all watchfulness be not em-
ployed, the labor of many months may be blasted in a
single day. Mr. Knight discarded bottom-heat altogether ;
but he did not succeed in convincing others that pine-
apples could be grown equally well without it. Bottom-
heat is, however, very generally, kept too high. Perhaps
the upper limit of its temperature may be fixed at blood-
heat, or at most 100°, while the under or winter limit
may be brought down to 70° or 75°. Gardeners are
accustomed to judge of the heat of the bed by means of
long sticks pushed into it; these are occasionally drawn
out and felt by the hand, and a rough guess at the tempera-
ture is thus obtained. A far preferable method is to em-
ploy a slow thermometer, slightly cased in wire, to protect
it when pushed into the bed.

PINE-APPLE—SOIL—~PROPAGATION. 35”

Soil.—Various nice and minute directions have been
given respecting composts for pine-apple plants. Any
compost, however, will be found suitable, which is at once
rich, fresh, and simple. Perhaps a mixture of the top-
spit, including the turf of an old pasture, and about a half
of good, well-rotted dung, combines these qualities as com-
pletely as possible. Whentit is necessary to lighten these
materials, a compost of decayed leaves and a little sand
may be added. It is of importance that the compost
whatever it may be, should be prepared a considerable time
beforehand, and frequently turned over. It should be
broken with the spade, but not screened; and when used,
it should not be too moist. Pine-apple plants are found
to show fruit more readily in a rich light soil than in strong
loam, but not to produce such large fruit. In selecting
his compost, the cultivator must make his selection between
these advantages. At all events the soil must be rich; it
can scarcely be too rich. ‘‘ The pine,” says an intelligent
writer in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. 1x., “is a gross
feeder, and will thrive in vegetable manure, however rich
and fresh.” Liquid manures have been applied; but these,
however useful when recent, prove deleterious in a ferment-
ed state.

Propagation.—In the cultivated state, the fruit of the
pine-apple becomes so succulent that it seldom or never
forms seed. ‘The different varieties are propagated by
planting the crowns or tufts which grow on the fruit, or
the suckers which appear at the base of the stem, These,
when removed from the fruit or the stem, are laid aside
for a few days, till the scar at the place of separation have
dried or healed, a precaution to prevent their rotting ;
after which they are potted immediately. Sometimes, late
in the season, they are merely thrust into exhausted tan,

352 FORCING GARDEN.

without pots, where they remain till the following spring.
In general the offsets should be as large as possible.
Specchly did not break off his suckers before they were
twelve or fourteen inches long, and he reserved only the
largest crowns. These large suckers and crowns grow
with greater rapidity, and come sooner into fruit, than
those of smaller size; and in this, in truth, consists the
principal secret of what has been called the short method
of culture, by which fruit is obtained in a much briefer space
of time than usual. The soil employed in propagation is
rather lighter than that afterwards applied. The pots
may be from three to six inches in diameter, and, to pro-
mote draining, should contain at bottom a layer of shivers
orclean gravel. For some time the plants are shaded
from the rays of the sun, and in about eight or ten days
they receive a little water. It may be laid down as an im-
portant general rule, in the culture of the pine-apple, that
the progress of the plant should be carried on without in-
termission—without a check, without allowing it to flag
for an hour. As already stated, the older and more com-
mon routine of pine-apple culture embraced a period of
three years; but recent improvements have reduced these
to two years, or even to eighteen months. This has given
rise to two modes of preparatory management, which we
shall notice separately, premising that the treatment in the
fruiting-house is the same in both.

Triennial course—The plants which were potted in
autumn are kept in the nursing pit during winter, with a
mild temperature, slight bottom-heat, and sparing allow-
ance of water. About the beginning of April they are
transferred into larger pots, and are commonly shifted into
hotbeds, or pits heated with stable-dung, in which they
are found to prosper exceedingly. Air is given every day,

TRIENNIAL COURSE. 353

and is copiously admitted as soon as the sun’s rays have
acquired considerable power. During summer, the average
morning temperature may be from 70° to 75° Fahren-
heit, but in sunshine it may be allowed to rise to 85°,
90°, or even more. The heat is maintained by adding
occasional linings of stable-litter, and when it is exhaust-
ed, the plants are transferred into other beds or pits, more
recently made up, and in which fermentation is going on.
In flued nursing-pits, the management is precisely the
same. The bottom-heat is aided by fresh additions of
tan.

As nothing is to be dreaded from damp where there is a
command of fire-heat, more copious waterings may be
given, and the plants may be syringed overhead, or slightly
steamed, by throwing water on the flues. It is not very
common to shift the plants in the nursery during summer ;
but it is a good rule to have recourse to that operation as
often as the roots begin to mat on the sides of the pot.
Before the end of autumn the young plants become vigor-
ous. The lower part of the stalk should then be thick, the
centre, or funnel formed by the leaves should be upright,
open, and rather short, and the leaves themselves not long
nor very numerous, but broad, stiff, succulent, and free
from contortion and deformity. Towards the end of
autumn, the plants are taken into the succession-pit, which,
in fact, is only a nursing-pit on a large scale. The temper-
ature for winter should be about 60°. About the middle
of March, they are shifted into pots nine or ten inches in
diameter. At this period, it is not uncommon, in com-
pliance with the recommendation of Abercrombie and the
other older authorities to cut away the whole of the roots,
and to repot the plant somewhat in the capacity of a sucker,

354 FORCING GARDEN.

The reasons alleged for this extraordinary practice are,
that the pine-apple plant is continually pushing out roots
at the surface, while those below are rapidly dying ; that
the soil, in the course of three years, becomes completely
exhausted; and, lastly, that this treatment prevents pre-
mature starting in the course of the second year. This
last reason is very questionable, and it assumes that pine-
apple plants must be treated for three years before they
produce fruit. There is some force in the other reasons,
but they certainly do not prove the necessity of the prac-
tice. Roots may be pruned without being removed
altogether. The earth may be shaken almost entirely
away, and replaced by fresh compost, at the expense of
only a few fibres. Again, if, at every shifting, a small
portion of the earth be taken from below, as florists treat
auriculas in pots, at the end of two years scarcely any por-
tion of the original soil will remain. The grand objection
to the operation is the great and unnecessary check to vege-
tation, and the consequent stuntedness of habit, which, in
succulent plants of such an age, is scarcely remediable.

That it is possible successfully to cultivate pine-apples
without thus cutting away the roots is borne out by the
testimony and practice of Griffin, Appleby, and other dis-
tinguished cultivators. When the roots are even partially
removed, the plants must be shaded for some time, and be
watered sparingly, till they begin to grow freely. The
summer temperature should be comparatively warm, the
‘range being from 65° to 70° of fire-heat, or during night,
and from 70° to 85° solar heat. Abundance of air should
be admitted, and the plants ought to be set widely, that
they may have room to swell below, and become stout and
bushy.

Biennial Course.—The method of culture which we

PINE-APPLE—BIENNIAL COURSE. 355

have denominated the biennial course was first brought into
notice by Abercrombie, and more recently has been strenu-
ously recommended by Baldwin. Its chief feature is the
acceleration of the growth of the plants by the application
of higher temperatures than it was formerly supposed they
would flourish in. They are, in fact, made to attain the
growth of two summers in the course of one year.

About the beginning of March, the most forward of the
plants potted over winter, or the suckers kept in tan; are
taken out, the earth or tan taken away, and the roots
shortened. They are then put into pots about five inches
in diameter, which are plunged into frames or pits heated
with tan or stable-litter. They are shaded as usual, and,
after they begin to grow, receive moderate waterings.
When the roots appear around the balls of soil, which will
be about the middle of June, the plants are again shifted
into larger pots from six to seven inches in diameter, and,
if the heat be declining, are removed into other pits or
beds. In the beginning of August they are transferred
into large pots, in which, unless they are intended for early
spring forcing, they stand during the winter; and in Feb-
ruary they are finally shifted into pots twelve or fourteen
inches in diameter. For spring forcing, the last shifting
takes place in October, and the pots may be two inches
narrower. At every shifting the ball of earth is preserved
entire. From March the temperature is gradually in-
creased ; little air is admitted, even in strong sunshine, and
a lively bottom-heat is kept up by means of repeated lin-
ings. When there is danger of scorching the roots, the
pots are partially drawn up, or even set upon the surface
of the tan. The following table will give an idea of the
temperature (Fahrenheit’s thermometer) and its progressive
increase :—

356 FORCING GARDEN,

During Night. During Day.
March .... . 60° to 70° 60° to 80°
April. .....70 — 75 70 — 8&8
i Sea ae 75. —- 80 90 —— 100
Pune po WLR 80 — 85 100 — 120*

After the beginning of July, the heat is allowed to de-
cline by degrees, until it arrive at the winter temperature
of 60°. It is to be understood, however, that these tem-
peratures regard only stable-dung or tan heat; and that
too, applied to crowns, as the larger suckers seldom require
more than 100°. When fire-heat is used, and it should
always be through the medium of hot water, the nocturnal
temperature should only approach towards 80°; and there
should be some expedient for the s/ow immission of steain
into the atmosphere of the pit. During the whole summer,
care is employed to prevent the plants from being drawn,
and for this purpose they are allowed much space, and are
placed as near the glass as possible. In August and Sep-
tember abundance of air, and more copious supplies of
water, are given. In winter, the chief care is to preserve
the roots from damping off, and for this reason, though it
is not the common practice, we should prefer winter pits,
having at least the command of fire-heat.

This mode of driving, as it has been significantly called,
is applicable chiefly to the varieties called the Queen and
Ripley’s New Queen; most of the large growing sorts re-
quiring a longer period. It is desirable, therefore, that both
courses of culture should be carried on at the same time ;
so that the larger varieties may be consigned to the trien-

* These temperatures were actually maintained in the pineries of the
Royal Gardens at Kensington in 1825. Our authority (Mr. Gowans, now
gardener at Cadder House, and a most successful horticulturist) has subse-
quently recommended a mitigated scale.

PINE APPLE—FRUITING HOUSE. 357

nial course, while the vacancies in either may be made up
from the other. That this is practicable, at least in gar-
dens where there are two fruiting-houses, may be seen
from the tabular compendium of culture given at p. 361.

Fruiting- House.—About the beginning of August, the
plants, now two years old, are shifted for the last time.
The pots are from twelve to fourteen inches in diameter,
and the balls are preserved entire. About eight or ten
days previously, the bark-pit of the fruiting-house should
be cleared out, the old tan screened, if necessary, and fresh
material supplied. The pots are then plunged into the bark
as deeply as can be done with safety, and the plants are so
treated as to keep them ina growing state during the whole
of autumn. In winter, the nocturnal temperature is kept
at 60°; but towards the end of January it is gradually
raised to 70°. This rise, however, should follow, and not
precede or be a cause of the vernal growth of the plants.
About the middle of February, the second fruiting-house
may be prepared for the reception of the plants in the
biennial succession-pit. These are existing in a mild tem-
perature, and start during the general progress of the
season.

That period at which pine-apple plants first show their
fruit-stalks, or, as it is technically termed, start, is the
most critical in their whole culture. It is generally desi-
rable that this should happen at a certain age, and at a
particular season ; but these are circumstances over which
the cultivator can scarcely be said to have a direct control,
and accordingly, while the most successful, can hardly
deem themselves beyond the reach of failure, the less skill-
ful are very liable to err. We are not aware that the
rationale of starting has been investigated on the princi-
ples of vegetable physiology; and it is certain that the

358 FORCING GARDEN.

most absurd practices have been resorted to in order to
force the plants into fruit. We pretend not to give a the-
ory ; but a few practical remarks may be of advantage.
It is evident, then, that the plant must be of a certain age,
or at least of a certain magnitude, before it will start free-
ly or to good purpose. Suckers of the first year exert all
their energies in the production of roots and foliage; and
if any of them happen to start, they exhibit little more
than a tuft of leaves where the fruit should be. In the
second year a Queen pine is capable of producing a
perfect fruit; and in the third year the New Providence
and other large varieties arrive at puberty. The solid
part of the stem is then observed to have increased in
bulk, and to have ascended considerably above the soil.
It is of more practical importance, however, to remark
that the fruit-stalks do not appear until the pot is well
filled with roots. Apparent exceptions there may be to
this rule ; but in every case where it does not hold good,
the plant will be found to be diseased, or the roots to
have been violently destroyed. The grower should
therefore take care that the roots shall have nearly oe-
cupied all the new soil before the end of autumn, and
that in the course of the winter the tender fibres be not
exsiccated by drought, or rotted by excessive moisture.
Again, it is probable that at starting, there is a peculiar
check in the growth of the plant, which causes it to divert
the sap from the formation of leaves, and, like most other
vegetables in straitened circumstances, to provide the means
of reproduction, by throwing out flower-buds. This diver-
sion of the sap is influenced by the quantity of vigorous
fibres, for it is observed that when, from some accident,
plants not well furnished in this respect do show fruit,
they bestow the greater part of the sap upon the leaves.

PINE-APPLE—FRUITING-HOUSE. 359

Further, it is not a mere suspension of vegetation, other-
wise fruit would be produced by every plant which has had
the roots cut from it in the manner noticed above.
Lastly, it is probable that the proper check consists in a
transition from growth, however slight, to a temporary
suspension of vegetation, which again is followed by a
copious flow of the sap, circumstances which, as might be
easily shown, occur both in the winter and summer start-
ing. If these imperfect observations be correct, it follows
that starting is a natural process, requiring certain condi-
tions in the state of the plant, and therefore not to be
forced by violent treatment, or any sudden changes in tem-
perature and watering.

After the plants have shown fruit, they are never
shifted ; but the surface-soil may be removed, and replaced
by a little fresh and rich compost. Water is supplied
from time to time as necessity requires; but it is impossi-
ble to give any definite rule on this subject. The observ-
ant gardener will soon, from experience, discover the proper
measure. Water should never be given in a colder state
than the average temperature of the house; when, there-
fore, there is no tank within the house, the watering-pots
should be filled, and left in the house for some time before
the water be applied. Fire-heat is kept up either contin-
uously or at intervals, during the greater part of the sea-
son. It should always be moderate, never exceeding, by
itself, 70°. During sunshine, the temperature may range
from 70° to 100°. The greater proportion there is of sun-
heat the better. Whilst the fruit is swelling, care must
be taken to carry on the growth of the plant with equabil-
ity and moderation. Violent checks are pernicious ; they
debilitate the stalk, and cause a stringiness in the fruit.
As the fruit approaches maturity, water is gradually with-

360 FORCING GARDEN.

held, lest the flavor should be injured. Pine-apples should
be cut a short time before they attain complete maturity.
The larger varieties will keep good only for a day or two ;
the smaller varieties a week or more.

The following tabular compendium is from Abercrom-
bie, altered, however, in some of its details, to suit the idea
of two cropsa year. To execute this plan, two fruiting-
houses or pits, and one succession-pit, would be required
together with a variety of hotbeds, or pits for the nursing
department. It is necessary to premise, that crowns and
suckers are usually potted soon after they are taken off,
and that August 15 may be considered the date at which
the whole operations of potting should be finished. When
there is only a biennial course, it commences from about
February 14.

PINE-APPLE-—FRUITING- HOUSE.

361

COMPENDIUM OF THE CULTURE.

“RIENNIAL COURSE.

Nursing- Pit.
$848.

Aug. 15. Crowns and Suckers *of
the New Providence
and other large vari-
eties planted; also
small crowas. and
suckers of the Queen
pine.

_ 1849.

Heb. 14. Small offsets of the
Queen pine dibbled
into the tan.

The above potted or re-
potted ; the balls of
earth preserved entire.

y intermediate shift-

April 1.

July.

‘Aug. ing: time determined

by ‘expediency.

Succession-Pit.

1850.
Mar. 1. The plants from the nurs-
ing-house are shifted
into larger pots: the
greater part of the
earth is renewed, and

the roots pruned.
Second intermediate shift-

img

June l,

Fruiting-House.
1850.

Aug. 15. Between this period and
September 15, the
plants after having
been shifted into full-
sized pots, are intro-
duced frem the succes-
sion-pit.

1851.
March. The surface of the pots are
top-dressed.
1851.

June. { Fruit ripens, and the course
Aug. concludes,

BIENNIAL COURSE.

Nursing- Pit.
1848
Aug. 15. Large crowns and suck-
ers of the Queen pine
planted.
1849.

Feb, 14. Large offsets of the Queen
pine dibbled into the

tan.

Mar. 15. The above potted or re-
potted; the earth or
tan is shaken away,
and the roots pruned,
the pots transferred
inte hotbeds or pits.

June 15. First intermediate shift-
ing :

Aug. 1. Second intermediate shift-
ing.

Succession-Pit.

1849.

Oct.1. Plants introduced from the
nursing - pit; but not
shifted unless intend-
ed for early spring
forcing.

Fruiting-House.
1850.

Feb. 15. Plants shifted for the last
time, and introduced
from the succession-

pit.
1850.
Sept. Fruit ripens, and the eourss
Dec. concludes.

16

362 FORCING GARDEN.

Tur Meronry—a department deriving its name from
the melon, the principal plant cultivated in it—is an im-
portant appendage of the forcing garden. After noticing
some of the most necessary apparatus employed in it, we
shall treat of the melon, cucumber, and gourd, and their
culture respectively.

The common hotbed frame is most usually employed ;
and it is so well known as scarcely to require description,
It is a rectangular box, with sliding sashes, which may be
single, in pairs, or in threes. The length of the sash is
generally five or six feet, and its breadth about three feet
anda half. The back of the frame is about double the
height of the front, it being intended that the slope should
be set towards the south. When used, it is placed on a
bed of fermenting vegetable matter, from three to six feet
in thickness, according to the purpose to which it is to be
applied, or the severity of the season. Stable-litter is the
fermenting material most commonly employed; but tree-
leaves, exhausted tanners’ bark, or flax-dressers’ refuse,
are also used. ‘Tree-leaves, when moderately dry and well
trodden, are more equable in their fermenting heat, and
retain it longer than the other materials mentioned. If a
layer, half a foot thick, of bark be placed over a bed of
leaves five feet thick, a gentle and uniform temperature
may be commanded for several successive months.

The Alderston Melon Pit, of which the following is a
section, is partly above and partly below ground. The

A ~
Fig. 47.

THE MELONRY. 863

front and back walls, a, a, are of brick, supported on piers
or stone pillars; 4 6 are spaces inclosed within outer walls,
and covered with boards to contain linings, which commu-
nicate, without any object intervening, with the fermenting
substances in the interior of the pit. These spaces may
be two feet wide: the interior pit should seldom be more
than six feet in breadth. A principal quality of this struc-
ture is its neatness and cleanliness. Ca/ed. Hortic. Mem.,
vol. ii, p. 217.

West Melon and Cucumber Pit is also built of brick.
It has in this figure a chamber @ to contain the dung ;

Fig. 48.

b, a square opening by which the dung is introduced ; os.
rafters of wood or cast-iron, sustaining the interior soil; dd,
openings to permit the ascent of steam. The walls are
nine inches thick, and the pit may be seven feet wide inside
measure. Lond. Hort. Trans., vol. iv., p. 220.
Atkinson’s Melon Pit, as given on next page, is a brick
structure. The back wall @ and the end wall are four
inches thick, built in the pigeon-hole fashion, that is, wit!
square interstices between the bricks. The front wall 4 is
double; the interior portion is brick in bed, the exterior
brick on edge, with piers uncer each rafter. The included
space communicates with the inside of the bed c. The
pit d is filled with fermenting litter or tanners’ bark ;
ee are spaces for linings. This pit, acccording to the ex-

‘

364 FORCING GARDEN.

perience of the Horticultural Society of London, has been
found ‘“ far superior to any other yet constructed.” Trans.,
vol. vi., p. 373. —Sometimes the whole 1s formed of wood,
or sometimes only the part above ground.

The extent of the melonry must depend upon the size
of the garden, and the amount of the demand. Where
there is a large family, and especially where pine-apples are
cultivated (to the forwarding of which some portion of the
imelonry may frequently be auxiliary), sixty or seventy
sashes may be considered as a moderate complement,

The Menon (Ceucumzs Melo) has long been cultivated in
Britain, but the period of its introduction and its native
country are not well ascertained, The plant is a tender
annual, requiring considerable care and skill to rear it in
perfection ; but it repays the labors of the horticulturist
by affording a large, and to most persons a-highly palata:
ble, fruit. The varieties are numerous, and, from their ten»
dency to sport or vary, are rather fugitive in their dura-
tion. Many of the old favorites have disappeared, and
those at present in vogue will doubtless take the same
course, or will at least assume new forms, while they retain
their old names. In these circumstances, it is deemed un-
necessary to enter into minute description, or to do more than
give a list of the sorts at present best deserving of cultiva-
tion. It may be premised that they all belong to the spe-
vies usually called the Musk Melon. The Water Melon, .

THE MELONRY. 365

(Cucurbita Citrullus) appertains to another genus, and is
seldom reared in this country except as a curiosity.

Early Cantaloupe. Green Hoosainee Persian.
Scarlet-fleshed Cantaloupe. Golden Rock.

Beechwood. Silver Rock,

Smooth Scarlet-fleshed. Cephalonian.

Duke of Bedford, green-fleshed. Kassaba, green-fleshed.
Green-fleshed Egyptian. Sweet Melon of Ispahan.
Green-fleshed Italian. Winter Grecian.

It is important that no seeds but such as have been pro-
eured from approved genuine specimens of the several
sorts should be sown. In general, the fresher or more re-
cent that garden seeds are, the better; but the case is dif-
ferent with the melon. Here it is desirable that the seeds
should have been kept in a dry state for a year or two:
for it is found that plants produced from recent seeds push
too vigorously, sending their shoots to a great length before
they show a single fruit; while those from old seeds are
less luxuriant in growth, but more fruitful.

The melon succeeds best in a strong rich soil. A com-
post, formed of two-thirds of rotted turf, and one-third of
old cow-dung, will be found very suitable. This should be
prepared for a year at least before it be employed in the
melon frame.

There are generally several, perhaps three, successive
crops of melons raised in large gardens. It is seldom ex-
pedient to sow before the middle or end of January, and
sometimes it is soon enough a month later. A seed-bed
capable of receiving a frame with a single sash is previously
prepared. This bed, composed of fermenting stable-litter,
should be of considerable thickness, perhaps about five
feet. Immediately upon its formation, the frame and sash
are placed on it, and they are kept close till the heat begin

366 FORCING GARDEN.

to rise, when the hot vapor is permitted to escape. Three
or four days after the bed has been formed, it is covered
over to the depth of three inches with earth prepared be-
forehand. Rich, light, dry earth, is best adapted for this
purpose; and, that it may be dry enough, it is proper to
use such as may have been protected from rain during
winter. A few small flower-pots are filled with the same
earth, and kept in the hotbed, that the soil in them may
acquire a proper temperature. The seeds are then sown
in the flower-pots, and covered half an inch deep; after |
which the pots are plunged a little way into the earth of
the bed.

When hot vapor rises copiously, fresh air is admitted by
raising the sash a little. The frame is covered every even-
ing at sunset with mats, and is again exposed in the morn-
ing about nine o’clock, sooner or later, according to the
state of the weather. A single mat is sufficient at first, as
the heat in the bed is generally strong. In two or three
days after the seed has been sown, the plants appear, when
the glasses are raised a little, to admit fresh air, and per-
mit the escape of vapor. Unless this be done, the plants
are apt either to damp off or become yellow and sickly.
To guard against the casualties of the season, and the
chances of miscarriage, it is proper to make two other
sowings at short intervals, so that, if any accident befall
the first plants, the others may supply their place. Two
or three days after the plants have come up, they are
transplanted into other small pots, only two or three being
put into each pot. If the earth be very dry, it is now
moistened with a little slightly tepid water. The pots are
then plunged into the earth, and much care and watchful-
ness are employed to prevent the roots from being scorched,
When the transplanted seedlings begin to grow, they are

THE MELONRY. 367

watered ovcasionally in the warmest part of the day. As
the heat of the hotbed declines, it is supported by linings
of fermenting litter, applied from time to time, around its
outer sides. The lining should not exceed fifteen or
eighteen inches in thickness, and should rise above the level
of the bed upon the sides of the frame.
About a month after the seeds have been sown, hotbeds
or pits are prepared for the reception of the young plants.
For the first crop, it is generally found that hotbeds are
preferable. These are formed about three feet and a half
thick, and of such extent as to receive several frames of
two or three lights each. The same precautions with re-
spect to vapor, and other matters connected with the fer-
mentation, are observed as in the seed-bed. When the
violence of the heat has begun to subside, the surface of
the bed is covered, to the depth of two inches, with dry,
light earth; and under the centre of each sash a conical
heap of the same soil is formed to the height of ten inches.
By the following day, the earth generally acquires a suff-
cient warmth, and the bed is ready for the reception of the
plants. The pots containing the young plants should be
well watered the day previous to their being 77dged out, to
make the ball adhere together, and come out of the pot en-
tire. After the tops of the hillocks of earth have been flat-
tened a little in the centre of each, a hole is made capable
of containing one of the balls of earth which is to be
turned out of the pots. Some of the pots containing the
strongest plants are selected, and the young melon plants
are plunged out, with balls entire, into the ridges or hil-
locks already mentioned. After this operation has been
performed, they receive a gentle watering. The sashes are
replaced, and for some time, unless the yapor be strong,
little air is given. are is taken toe prevent the tender

368 FORCING GARDEN.

fibres from being scorched. When the roots begin to show
themselves through the surface of the hillocks, a quantity
of fresh earth is applied all around them, and in a week or
in a fortnight after, the whole surface of the bed is covered
nearly as high as the top of the hills.

When the plants have got two or three of their rough or
perfect leaves, the top of the stalklet, which now begins to
elongate, is pinched off, and from the axillz of the leaves
lateral shoots are soon shot forth. These are fastened

down with pegs, and are so disposed as regularly to cover

the surface of the bed. These laterals will sometimes
show flowers at the second or third joints; if they do not,
they are topped in their turn, and afford other laterals,
which seldom fail to be fruitfal. As these runners ad-
vance, they are trained along the surface, and all weak,
useless shoots are removed. This should be done repeat-
edly at suctessive intervals, as it is found injurious to cut
out a great quantity of shoots and foliage at onetime. No
plant, as has been shown by Mr. Knight (Hortie. Trans.,
vol. i.), is more beholden to its leaves, both as respects
health and flavor of fruit, than the melon. In cultivating
the sweet melon of Ispahan, that excellent cultivator never
suffered lateral shoots or blossoms to be produced at a less
distance from the root than the fourteenth or fifteenth joint,
or more, above the seed-leaves. In this way the expendi-
ture of sap, being confined to the extremity of a single
stem, was small compared with the quantity formed; it
therefore accumulated, and afforded greatly increased nour-
ishment to the fruit.

It is seldom proper to leave more than one melon on
each shoot, and in the large kinds perhaps not more than
four or five fruit should be left on one plant. When the
melons begin to swell, a slate or piece of tile is. laid under

THE CUCUMBER. 369

each, to separate it from the damp soil of the bed. During
the process of growth, the fruit is usually turned once a
week, to expose all sides in succession to the rays of the
sun; but, in turning, care must be taken not to twist the
foot-stalk, as this would probably destroy the fruit
altogether. At this period water is given with moderation,
and abundance of air is admitted. The fruit should in
general be gathered before it be fully ripe. Its approach-
ing maturity is known by the appearance of a number of
cracks near the footstalk, and by its exhaling a rich odor.
When ripe, it should be taken off in the morning, and kept
in a cool place till served up; if this precaution be not at-
tended to, there will be a considerable deficiency of flavor.
The kind called Winter Grecian Melon is described by Mr.
Lawson (Manual, p. 407) as possessing the desirable pro-
perty of keeping good for several months, if suspended in
a fine net, in a cool, airy room.

The average heat required for the successful growth of
melons is about 70° Fahrenheit. In the common hot bed,
this is maintained by defending the bed during the night,
and by applying linings from time to time. In pits heated
by hot-water circulation, this is easily effected at any sea-
son; and were it not that the included air is apt to become
too dry, especially in winter, when much heat is required,
such pits ought doubtless to supersede the hotbed frame
altogether. At present the old methods, partly it may be
from custom, are still principally employed. It is unneces-
sary to give minute directions respecting the management
of melons in pits; as, in these, the mode of procedure re-
commended for hot beds will, with some trifling variations,
also prove successful.

The Cucumper (Cucumis sativus), like the melon, is a
16*

370 FORCING GARDEN.

tender annual, requiring, in England, the assistance of arti-
ficial heat to bring it to perfection. It properly belongs to
- the class of culinary vegetables, being used in salads and
pickles. It has been long cultivated in England, where,
however, its culture requires the closest attention of the
gardener. The sorts commonly grown are,

The Early Frame. Short Green Prickly.
Sion House. Green Turkey.
Long Green Prickly. Prize-fighter.

Of these, the long and short prickly are well suited for
ridges in the open air.

The culture of early cucumbers so much resembles that
of the melon that it would be useless repetition to enter
into minute details. The cucumber, indeed, is somewhat
the hardier, and therefore in summer requires less heat;
but in every other respect the management of the plants is
precisely the same. The first crop of cucumbers is gene-
rally sown in the end of December, or the beginning of
January; a second in March, and a third in June. In
summer, cucumber plants, after they have been fairly estab-
lished, require scarcely any other attention than to thin
them out occasionally, and to supply them with water.

Cucumbers, particularly the prickly sorts, are often
raised in the warmer months under hand-glasses. A cavity
is made in a border in front of a wall or other warm place,
and is filled with hot dung. This dung is covered with
earth, and two or three plants are put into it, and sheltered
with a hand-glass. They are watered and dressed from
time to time; and by this means a sufficient supply of small
cucumbers, or girkins, is obtained for pickling. _

In the southern counties of England, pickling cucum-
bers are easily raised without any artificial heat, being
sown in drills in the open ground. The earth is made fine

GOURDS. on

and level, and shallow circular hollows are formed with the
hand, a foot wide, and half an inch deep in the middle.
The distance between each hollow is three feet and a half,
and the distance between the rows five or six feet. Hight
or ten seeds are deposited in each cavity. This is done in
the beginning of June. When the plants appear, they are
thinned out to three or four, the weakest or least healthy
being rejected. They are watered occasionally, according
to the state of the weather. The cucumbers are not ex-
pected nor wished to attain a large size; they are gathered
chiefly from the middle to the end of August. Vast
quantities of these open-ground girkins are taken to the
London market. The village of Sandy, in Bedfordshire,
has been known to furnish 10,000 bushels of drilled cucum-
bers in one week, Cucumbers may be procured in a hot-
house during the winter months. For this purpose the
seedlings are not raised till the month of August, and they
are prevented from expending their energies in the produc-
tion of blossom or fruit till they have been intreduced into
the stove. Their stems are then firm, and,as Mr. Knight —
remarks, the plants possess within themselves a quantity of
accumulated sap.

GourDs, species or varieties of the species of the genus
Cucurbita, may be grown like drilled cucumbers, or
trained against walls or on pales. Though occasionally
used as esculents, they are regarded chiefly as curiosities,
the fruit of some kinds being very ornamental. The
Succada (Cicader, Cucurbita ovifera), or vegetable mar-
row, isa very useful sort, and in request for the table,
being eaten stewed with white sauce or mashed like turnips.
It may be raised in an exhausted melon-frame or pit; or it
may be sown under a hand-glass, and afterwards trans-

3f2 FORCING GARDEN.

planted mto a good aspect, and trained against @ wall or
trellis. The tender tops of any of the edible Cucurbitaceze,
boiled as greens or spinach, form a delicate vegetable.
Melons and cucumbers, though requiring for their cultiva-
tion in the English climate the protection of glass and
walls, together with the highest degree of horticultural
skill, to bring to a maturity, at which they are very in-
ferior in flavor, ripen in the open air and attain great per-
fection under the burning midsummer sun of the United
States, especially the middle and southern portions. In-
formation relative to the various kinds and best modes of
culture will be found among the subjects included in the
Kitchen Garden.

The Musuroom (Agaricus campestris), though not pro-
perly an inmate of the melonry, may appropriately enough,
from the nature of its culture, be taken along with the
plants grown in this department. It is a well-known fun-
gus, a general favorite, and esteemed a delicacy during
winter and the spring months.

Mushrooms used to be grown in ridges or prepared beds,
in sheds, or covered with litter in the open air. Of late
years, the Russian form of the mushroom-house has been
introduced into Britain by Mr. Isaac Oldacre, and is now
in very general use. Its arrangement may be seen by in-
specting the back part of the vinery, a section of which is
given at page 336. Two tiers of boxes, three in each tier,
and supported by a strong framework, are constructed
round the whole house, with the exception of the spaces
occupied by a door and two windows. The boxes may be
from two feet and a half to three fect and a half broad, and
about a foot deep. The house is supposed to be heated by
hot-water circulation. In the centre d is a narrow pit, by
which the house may be worked by means of fermenting

THE MUSHROOM. 373

litter instead of the hot water, or in which rhubarb stalks
may be forced. The windows are furnished with shutters
to regulate. the admission of light, much of which is not
wanted; and they are movable, to permit the ingress of
air.

Mushrooms are propagated from what gardeners call
spawn, and botanists micelium, being a collection of mat-
ter resembling white mouldiness, crossed with vegetable
threads. It may be obtained from old pastures, the floors
of disused stables, decayed mushroom beds, or purchased
from nurserymen in the form of bricks charged with spawn.
When once obtained, it may, like leaven, be indefinitely
multiplied and preserved. If not to be otherwise procured,
it may be produced, or apparently generated, by placing
quantities of horse-dung and rich loam in alternate layers,
and covering the whole with straw, to exclude the rain and
air. Mushroom spawn commonly appears in the heap in
about two months after the dung and earth have been laid
together. The almost impalpable seeds seem to adhere to
the grass, hay, or oats, on which the horse feeds, and to
resist the action of the animal’s stomach. The droppings
of stall-fed horses, or of such as have been kept on dry
food, are found preferable for this purpose.

The old method of growing mushrooms has been refer-
red to above; and, as it has some conveniences, particular-
ly for those who have not extensive means, it may be pro-
per to give some account of it. Horse-droppings should
be laid out from the stable into a very dry place, as free
from straw and litter as possible. There they should be
firmly trampled down with a man’s feet, to prevent fermen-
tation. The droppings from the horse-track of a thrashing
machine form an excellent material in the spring time;
for there the droppings are kept dry, and are theroughly

374 FORCING GARDEN.

trodden by the horses’ feet. Beds may then be formed
two or three feet broad, and of any length. A layer of the
droppings about eight or ten inches thick is first deposited,
and covered with loamy earth to the depth of two or three
inches; then another layer of droppings of the same thick-
ness, covered like the former; and, lastly, a third layer,
with its covering. The whole should grow narrower as it
advances in height. When the bed is finished it is covered
with straw, to protect it from rain and from the parching
influences of the sun and wind. In ten days the bed will
be ready for planting or spawning. Pieces of spawn bricks
_are then inserted in the sloping sides of the bed, about four
or five inches asunder. A layer of loam is next placed
over the bed, and the whole is covered with a thick coat
of straw. When the weather is temperate, mushrooms
will appear in about a month after the bed has been made ;
but at other times a much longer period may elapse. The
principal thing to be attended to are to preserve a mode-
rate state of moisture and a proper degree of warmth ;
and the treatment at different seasons must vary ac-
cordingly.

Of several other methods of raising mushrooms, Mr.
Oldacre’s, already referred to, may deserve to be particu-
larized. In forming the compost, he procures fresh short
dung from a stable, or from the path of a horse mill. To
this is added about a fifth part of sheep-droppings, or of
the cleanings of a cow-house, or of a mixture of both. The
whole ingredients are thoroughly mixed and incorporated.
A stratum of the prepared mixture, about three inches
thick, being deposited in the boxes already described, is
beat together with a flat wooden mallet. Another layer is
added, and beat as before; and this is repeated till the
beds be rather more than half a foot thick, and very com-

THE MUSHROOM. 375

pact, The boxes are then placed in the mushroom-house,
or in any out-house where a slightly increased temperature
can be commanded. <A degree of fermentation generally
takes place; butif heat be not soon perceptible, another
layer must still be added, till sufficient action be excited.
When the beds are milk-warm, or between 80° and 90°
Fahrenheit, some holes are dibbled in the mass to receive
the spawn. The holes are left open fer some time; and
when the heat is on the decline, but before it be quite
gone, a piece of spawn brick is thrust into each opening,
and the holes are closed with a little compost. A week
afterwards, the boxes are covered with a smooth coating,
two inches thick, of rich loamy mould mixed with about a
fifth part of horse-droppings. The apartment is now kept
as nearly and as equably at 55° Fahrenheit as circum-
stances will allow. When the boxes become dry, a little
soft water may be used, but sparingly and with -circum-
spection, and instead of watering directly on the surface
of the bed, it is better to spread some hay over it, and to
sprinkle the hay. The more that free air can be admitted,
the flavor of the mushrooms is the better; but the exclu-
sion of frost is indispensable. If a number of boxes have
been prepared at first, a few only at a time may be cover-
ed with mould and brought into bearing, the rest being
covered and cropped in succession, as mushrooms may be
in demand.

Mr. Edward Callow, in a tract on the artificial growth
of mushrooms, describes a method in which the pits are
wrought by means of dung heat. His structure somewhat
resembles Atkinson’s melon-pit, only the roof is covered
with thatch, and a suit of air-flues is formed within the
interior of the pit, with branches crossing the principal bed
which occupies the floor. Linings of fermenting litter are

376 FORCING GARDEN,

applied on the exterior of the house at the back and front

The atmosphere in the pit, in the earlier stage, is kept at
55° to 65° Fahrenheit, and, when the bed is in full
bearing, about 70°. The other details of this method
searcely differ from those of Mr. Oldacre’s.

CALENDAR.

Tue instructions given in the following calendar are, of
course, adapted to the climate of Britain, where the cold
is more enduring and greater in the average, but not so
excessive as that usually experienced in the winters of the
United States, especially those of the northern and middle
regions, where little if any work can be done in the open
air, in the kitchen or flower gardens, during the months of
January and February. Now and then, in the latter
month, when the frost may happen to leave the earth for a
brief period, the planting of some kinds of early peas, cab-
bages, with a few others of the more early vegetables, may
be effected. In the more southerly portions of the Union,
many of the instructions given in the calendar for January
and February may be followed out, whilst those adapted
to the condition of things in the hot months of June and
July would require much greater modification. Seeing
the great differences presented by the American climate
during the same months in the various latitudes, we have
chosen to give the English Calendar with little alteration,
trusting to the good common sense of the American garden-
ers to make use of the valuable suggestions and directions
which it contains, with such modifications as they may find
requisite to adapt them to the precise seasons and circum-
stances, as these exist in their several localities. Most of
the early out door work herein specified should be delayed
two months later in the Northern States.

378 CALENDAR—JANUARY.

JANUARY.

Kitchen Garden.—Trench ana manure borders for early
crops. Sow early frame peas, preferring the Warwick
variety and early Charlton in the beginning of the month,
the Knight’s dwarf marrowfat about the end of the month ;
Marshall’s early dwarf, early mazagan, and long-pod beans,
during the first and last weeks ; a few onions, early horn
carrots, and round-leaved spinach for early crops, on very
light soils; as also curled parsley, if not done in August,
on a warm border; short-topped radish in two or three
sowings, at a week’s interval, in the same situation. In
the last fortnight sow black-seeded gotte, hardy green and
brown Dutch lettuce.

Plant fruit-trees in general, in open weather, mulching
the trees to protect them from the drought which may oc-
cur in spring. Plant shallot and garlic. All the above
one to two months later north.

Prune all sorts of fruit-trees in mild weather or in
moderate frosts, nailing only in fine weather; wash those
trees infested with insects, with a mixture of soap-suds,
flowers of sulphur, and tobacco liquor.*

* We have not deemed it necessary to treat separately or at length of the
means of destroying insects; many of the nostrums recommended proving
very efficient. The wash here mentioned is perhaps the best and simplest
for the stems and branches of wall fruit-trees. Some prefer making it of
the consistence of paint, and laying it on with a brush. One advice we
would tender to all gardeners—not to be anxious to kill the smaller kinds
of the feathered songsters, the soft-billed warblers of the garden, which are
often suspected of attacking blossoms of fruit when they are only picking off
caterpillars or aphides, their favorite food. Even the common sparrow and
the blue titmouse are useful in destroying the larvee of the moths which in-
fest the fruit-trees. In hot-houses, the keeping of the walls and frame-
work clean, by frequent white-washing and painting, is very important ;
and much benefit results from occasionally filling them with the smoke of
tobacco-paper, and then thoroughly syringing the plants.

CALENDAR—FEBRUARY. 379

Forcing D2partment.—Ahbout the end of the month,
gprepare for making up hotbeds for early cucumbers and

melons, at least where a pit heated with hot water is not in
use. Sow salads, carrots, and kidney-beans on slight hot-
beds. Sow peas in cold frames for transplanting. Force
asparagus, sea-kale, and rhubarb, in hotbeds in pits, in the
mushroom-house, or in the open garden by covers sur-
rounded with litter. Give air in fine weather, and water
sparingly, to the pimery and cucumber pit; and to other
forcing-houses according to the progress of the trees. At-
tend to forced kidney-beans and strawberries. _ Give abun-
dance of air to the green-house, conservatory, and alpine
frame, but little water. Continue to force roses, kalmias,
rhododendrons, and hardy flowers and bulbs, for the deco-
ration of the green-house, or to be taken into the lobby or
the drawing-room. Most of these ought to be potted and
prepared in autumn.

Flower G'arden.— Plant dried tubers and bulbs of bor-
der flowers, if not done in autumn; but the planting of the
roots of the finer florists’ flowers ought to be deferred till
next month.

Transplant herbaceus plants and evergreen shrubs in light
soils, if not done in autumn; also deciduous trees, shrubs,
and hedges. Lay edgings in fine weather.

Sow mignonette, stock, and other annuals, in pots; sow
sweet peas, and a few hardy annuals, on a warm border.
Give stage auriculas and carnations abundance of air; but
keep them rather dry, to prevent damping off.

FEBRUARY.

Kitchen Garden.—Continue to trench and manure the
quarters for early crops. Sow beans and peas in the begin-

880 CALENDAR—FEBRUARY.

ning and also at the end of the month; a few early cab-
bages, to replace the last sowing in August; red cabbages,
and savoys in the last week. Sow also early horn carrot :
Dutch turnip ; onions for a full crop in light soils, with a few
Scotch leeks. Sow chervil, fennel, and lettuce for succes-
sion, with radishes and round-leaved spinach, twice in the
course of the month; small salads every fortnight.

Plant Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, horse-radish, and
early potatoes; in the last week, a full crop of early cab-
_ bages on light soil. All sorts of fruit-trees may still be
planted ; strawberries about the end of this month or next.
Transplant for seed, if not done before, all the brasica
tribe, including cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, &c.; also car-
rots, onions, beet, celery, endive, leeks, and parsnips.
Transplant to the bottom of the south-aspected wall a
few of the peas sown in November for the first crop.

Prune apricots, peaches, nectarines, and plums, before
the buds be much swelled; also apples, pears, cherries,
gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, before the end of
the month. Finish the dressing of vines. Keep the fruit-
room free from spoiled fruit, and now shut it close, admit-
ting as little air as possible.

Forcing Department.—Plant out melons and cucumbers
on hotbeds and in pits, sowing more for succession. Sow
earrots, turnips, and early celery ; cauliflower to be after-
wards planted out. Sow tetragonia or New Zealand spin- |
ach in pots. Plant early potatoes on slight hotbeds. Con-
tinue the forcing of asparagus, rhubarb, and _sea-kale.
Pine-apple plants require little air or water at this season,
except young plants in dung-frames, which ought to be kept
free from damp. Shift fruiting plants by the middle of tho
month, if not done in August. Continue the forcing of all
sorts of fruits, Those who have not commenced sooner,

CALENDAR—MARCH. 381

and who have a small establishment, will find the middle
or end of this month a good season to begin the forcing of
vines or peaches. Be careful to protect the stems of vines
_ that are outside of the forcing-house.

Let the green-house and conservatory have plenty of air
in mild weather. Put in an extra quantity, if not done in
autumn, of cuttings of desirable half-hardy green-house
genera for the flower garden; such as Pelargonium, Fuchsia,
Salpiglossis, Calceolaria, Heliotropium, Salvia, Verbena,
Petunia, Alonsoa, Mimulus, Lobelia, Maurandia, Tropzeo-
lum, Bouvardia, Rodochiton, Leptospermum, Anagallis.
Many species and varieties of such genera are of great
beauty, and contribute most essentially to the rich appear-
ance of the flower garden during the summer and autumn
months. Sow stocks, a few tender annuals and dahlia seed,
on a slight hotbed or in pots.

Flower Garden.—In good weather, plant dried roots.
including most of the finer florists’ flowers; continue the
transplanting of hardy biennial flowers, and perennial
herbaceous plants, shrubs, and deciduous trees.

Sow in the last week mignonette, and several species of
hardy annuals, in a warm border for subsequent transplant-
ing—particularly Clarkia, Collinsia, Collomia, Eutoca.
Gillia, Limnanthes, Nemophila, (2nothera.

MARCH,

Kitchen Garden.—This is a busy month in English gar-
dens, Main crops of peas, beans, cabbages, and onions,
leeks, carrots, parsnips, Brussel sprouts, borecoles, lettuces,
and spinach, are now to be sown. Where space is rather
limited, some of the crops, especially peas and beans, may
occupy drills four or five feet asunder, so as to permit the

382 CALENDAR—MARCH.

‘

interlining of savoys or broccoli during summer. In the:
beginning, and also in the end of the month sow turnips
and savoys. In the last fortnight, sow asparagus, cauli-
flower, sea-kale, couve tronchuda, cardoons, celery, and most
of the culinary aromatics, as dill, fennel, parsley. Small
salads, such as cresses and mustard, should be sown every
ten days, and a row of chervil at the end of the month.

Plant early potatoes in the first week, and a main crop
during the last fortnight; also strawberries. Jerusalem
artichoke, sea-kale, asparagus, and peas raised in frames,
may now be planted out. Full crops of cabbages should
now be planted out, and cauliflowers under hand-glasses.
Propagate by slips the various pot-herbs, as mint, sage,
savory, tansy, tarragon, sorrel. Fork over the asparagus
bed, avoiding the buds as much as possible. Transfer tetra-
gonia seedlings into single pots.

Fruit Garden.—Finish the planting and pruning of
fruit-trees before the middle of the month. Dig and dress
between the rows of gooseberries, currants, and other fruit-
trees, if not already done. Kill wasps when they first
appear, for the death of every individual at this period is
equal to the destruction of a colony in autumn.

Forcing Garden.—Proceed with the forcing of melons
and cucumbers, giving air,and applying linings to maintain
the proper temperature. Examine pine-apple suckers and
crowns, potting those that have been kept in tan during the
winter; repotting those that require larger pots, and dress-
ing the roots of such as are sickly, about the middle of the
month, shift to the succession-pit, and give a top-dressing
to the fruiting plants; turn the tan, and add new bark to
the pits, to keep up bottom-heat. In the vinery and peach-
house, attend to the keeping down of insects by watering ;
aud promote the growth of the young shoots by steaming

CALENDAR—MARCH. 383

in the evenings. Craft vines when the shoots are sprung
about fifteen inches. (See page 99.) Sow seeds of cap-
sicum and tomato; also tender annuals for the stove. Sow
salads, early horn carrot, and early Dutch turnip on slight
hotbeds during the first fortnight; as also celery and cau-
liflower for transplanting. Force strawberries and kidney-
beans; and continue the forcing of roses, rhododendrons,
kalmias, hardy flowers, and bulbs.

Green-house.—More water may be given than formerly.
Sow seeds of green-house and hot-house plants; also the
different sorts of tender annuals; pot off those sown last
month. Shift green-house and stove plants; plant tube-
roses in pots for forcing; remove the forced shrubs and
plants, as they come into flower, from the forcing-houses to
the conservatory and green-house; attend to the alpine and
auricular frames. Begin to propagate green-house and
stove plants by cuttings.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery.—In the last week, sow
hardy annuals in the borders, with biennials that flower the
first season; asalso perennials. Plant anemone and ranun-
culus roots. Transplant from the nursery to their final
sites annuals sown in autumn with biennials and perennial
herbaceous plants. Propagate perennials from root-slips
and offsets. Protect tulips, hyacinths, and choice flowers,
from severe weather. In the last week put into heat the finer
sorts of dahlias, so as to start them, and prepare them for
propagation by cuttings and by division of the roots. In
the first week complete the planting of hardy deciduous
trees and shrubs; and finish the planting of evergreens by
the middle; but some of the hardier sorts may still be
planted towards the end of the month. Likewise finish the
pruning of all deciduous trees and hedges as soon as possi-

384 CALENDAR—APRIib.

ble. Attend to the dressing of shrubberies, laying of turf:
edgings, and to the state of gravel-walks.

APRIL,

*

Kitchen Garden.—Sow main crops of asparagus, sea-
kale, beet, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, carrots, and onions, on
heavy soils; also peas, beans, turnips, spinach, celery, cab-
bages, savoys, and German greens, for succession. Sow
broccoli and kidney-beans both in the second and in the
last week; cardoons not before the end of the month.
Small salads should be sown twice or thrice during the
month; also sweet herbs, if not sown last month. ’ Graft
fruit-trees. sae

Plant cauliflower, cabbages, artichokes, sea-kale’ lettuce,
and finish the planting of the main crops of potat’ .., and
also of strawberries. Propagate all sorts of pot-herbs,
and sweet herbs, such as lavender, marjoram, hyssop, balm,
and pennyroyal. Attend to the hoeing and thinning of
spinach, onions, turnips, and carrots. Earth up cabbages,
cauliflower, peas, beans, and early potatoes. Stake up
peas; blanch sea-kale and rhubarb in the open air, by
covering with straw or leaves, or with boxes or earthen-
ware covers. If some roots of scarlet-runners and of In-
dian cress have been preserved over winter in dry sand,
free from frost, they may now be planted out, and will
afford an early show of flowers and crop of fruit.

Fruit Trees.—No pruning or planting ought to be left
unfinished till this period; stone-fruits, in particular, are
much injured by spring pruning. If vines have been
neglected, rubbing off the buds that are not wanted is
now safer than pruning. Protect blossoms of the finer
sorts of fruit-trees on the walls. ;

CALENDAR—APRIL. 385

Forcing.—Continue the preparation of succession beds
and pits for cucumbers and melons. Attend particularly
to the cultivation of those in operation. Sow gourds and
basil. Pot love-apples and capsicums. Attend to the
routine culture of the pinery, giving water and air when
necessary ; keeping up the bottom-heat with linings and
additions of new tan. In forcing-houses, from the variable
state of the weather, considerable vigilance is required in
giving air. Keep down red spider (acarus), in the more
advanced houses, by frequent syringings. Continue the
usual operations of disbudding and thinning of fruit, and
take care to keep up the proper temperature. As the
weather may now be expected te be mild, those whe have
only a single vinery, melon, or cucumber frame, will find
the beginning or middle of this month a proper season to

e forcing with the best chance of success.

Green- House, §-c.—Little artificial heat will be required
except in frosty weather. An abundant supply of air and
moisture is now necessary. The glass should be kept off
the alpine frames, except in frosty nights. Attend to the
protection of stage auriculas from frost, as the flower-buds
are easily injured. Sow all sorts of tender annuals. Pro-
ceed with all necessary shiftings in the green-house and
stove. Remove camellias, when the flowers are over, to
the stove or forcing-houses, as they require heat to make
them form healthy shoots and flower-buds for next season.
Propagate Chinese chrysanthemums by dividing the roots,
and all sorts of rare and fine plants, by cuttings or by
grafting. Pot off tender annuals and cuttings of half-
hardy green-house plants, which were put in to strike in
the autumn or in February, for the use of the flower-
borders.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery.—Sow main or succes-
17

386 CALENDAR—MAY.

sion crops of annuals of all sorts; half hardy annuals in
warm borders, or on slight hotbeds. Biennials and peren-
nials should be sown before the middle of the month.
Plant Tigridia pavonia and fine stalks. Finish the trans-
planting of herbaceous perennials by the end of the first
week. Protect stage auriculas and hyacinths from ex-
tremes of every description of weather; and tulips from
hoarfrosts and heavy rains. Plant out tender deciduous
trees and shrubs raised in pots. Remove part of the cov-
erings of all tender shrubs and plants in the first week, and
the remainder at the end of the month. Form and repair
lawns and grass-walks by laying turf and sowing perennial
grass-seeds.

MAY.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow small salads every week; rad-
ishes and lettuces thrice during the month; spinach once
a fortnight ; carrots and onions for late drawing; kidney-
beans in the first week and last fortnight ; peas and beans,
cabbages, Brussels sprouts, borecole, broccoli, savoys, and
German greens for late crops. The last sowing of cauli-
flower for the season should be about the 20th. Cardoons
may be sown from the middle to the end of the month.
Sow pumpkins and cucumbers on a warm border in the
last week. Continue the various operations of hoeing and
earthing-up the different crops.

Frust-Trees.—Disbud peaches, nectarines, and other
early trees against the walls; also attend to the thinning
of fruit. Give occasional washings with the engine to
seep down insects. A little brown or Scotch snuff dusted
over the trees after watering will effectually destroy green-
fly. Pick caterpillars from gooseberries and wall-trees, on
their first appearance. Mulch, if not done before, all

CALENDAR—MAY. 387

newly-plauted fruit-trees, watering abundantly in dry wea-
ther. Remove from raspberries and strawberries all suck-
ers and runners that are not wanted. |,

Forcing.——Attend to the cultivation of the melon and
cucumber frames, regulating the air, heat, moisture, and
shade, according to the state of the plants; keeping them
free from insects; thinning and training the vines; also
renewing the dung-linings when necessary. Continue the
planting of fresh beds, raising more young plants from .
seeds and cuttings for late crops; the cuttings producing
less luxuriant but more fruitful plants. Go on with the
usual culture of the pinery; give abundance of heat and
water, and try to keep down all sorts of insects. The
grape-vines and peach-trees will require attention, accord-
ing to the progress they have made, in regulating the young
shoots, thinning the fruit, and tying up the shoulders of
such clusters of grapes as hang loosely, or are of a large
size. Give frequent washings with the engine to the
foliage, and a good supply of water to the borders; also
abundance of air. Plant out basil. Plant pumpkins and
pickling cucumbers, under hand-glasses, on dung ridges, or
in those frames that have been used for early vegetables,
most of which will be cleared off by the third or last
week.

Green-house, §c.—Turn out hardy plants about the
middle, and the more tender at the latter end, of the
month; retaining a part of the finest and most showy
plants for the decoration of the green-house during the
summer and autumn, when the regular inmates are chiefly
placed abroad in the garden. Sow tender annuals for suc-
cession, potting and shifting those sown at an earlier pe-
riod, and removing them from the frames to the green-house
or the conservatory as they come into flower. Continue to

388 CALENDAR—MAY.

propagate, by cuttings, the different kinds of plants that
are now fit for that purpose, potting off such as are rooted.
Remove stage auriculas to their summer quarters, in some
shady place with a north exposure. The alpine frame will
require little more than a good supply of water, with occa-
sional shiftings, and propagating a few of the early flower-
ing plants. Sow some hardy annuals and ten-weeks stalks
for late flowering. Species of Petunia, Tweedia, Tropzo-
lum, and Anagallis; with Maurandia, Rhodochiton, and
Lophospermum, may be planted as climbers against trel-
lises or walls.

Flower Garden.—Sow annuals for succession ; biennials
in the last week, in the nursery compartment, for planting
out next year. Propagate by cuttings, dahlias, pansies,
double wall-flowers, rockets, scarlet lychnis, and lobelias,
by dividing the roots. Plant out, during the first week,
dahlias, hardy pelargoniums, stocks, calceolarias, and half-
hardy annuals, protecting them from slight frosts. By the
middle and end of the month, masses of such plants as the
following may be formed with safety : Pelargonium, various
species and varieties, Heliotropium, Fuchsia, Salpiglossis,
Nierembergia, Salvia, Verbena, Bouvardia, Hrica, Lobelia.
Protect tulips, ranunculuses, and anemones from the mid-
day sun, from rain, and winds. Remove the coverings
from all tender plants in the open air; tying up plants
when necessary; clearing the walks, borders, and cutting
the grass every ten days; for much of the beauty of a
flower garden is lost if attention be not given to these ope-
rations.

Shrubbery.—Planting out of tender evergreens from
pots may be continued, but any other kind of transplant-
ing will be carried on at considerable risk, except in very
moist and cloudy weather. Proceed with the laying down

CALENDAR—JUNE. 389

of lawns and gravel-walks, keeping the grass short, and the
borders and walks free from weeds.

JUNE.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow peas and beans for late crops.
The kinds used for early crops are likewise best for this
purpose. Sow salading every ten days; also carrots and
onions for drawing young. In the beginning of the month,
sow endive for an early crop. In the first week, sow car-
doons and turnips for succession ; and, in the third week,
for a full autumn crop. Sow scarlet and white runners for
a late crop; and, in the middle of the month, early cab-
bages, to be used as coleworts.

Plant full crops of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, savoys,
German greens, and leeks; ridge out early celery, and suc-
cessional crops of cabbage and cauliflower. In the first
fortnight of the month, put out cucumber plants, in a warm
border, placing hand-glasses over them; these will afford
small cucumbers for pickling. Draw and store winter
onions.

Fruit Trees.—Attend particularly to the training and
pruning of the summer shoots of all descriptions of wall
and trellis trees. Standards do not require this, except
those that are trained en pyramide or en quénoutlle, Mulch
and water fruit-trees and strawberries in dry weather, de-
sisting from watering as soon as the fruit begins to ripen.
Net over cherry-trees, to protect the fruit from birds. De-
stroy insects by frequent washings and directing tobacco-
smoke against them, or by strewing snuff (the fine powder
of tobacco) over them. In the first week, plant out love-
apples in vacant spaces along the bottom of a south wall.

Forcing.—Proceed with planting melons and cucumbers

390 CALENDAR—YJUNE.

raised from seeds and cuttings, for late crops. Keep up,
by linings, the necessary temperature for ripening of the
fruit. Continue the cultivation of the pinery stated for
last month; but, if you wish very large-sized fruit, and do
not care about preserving suckers, remove the whole suck-
ers from the stems and roots, and apply heat and water in
abundance. Shift suckers and succession-plants in the be-
ginning and middle of the month, as the state of the plants
may require.

Vines and Peaches, &c., may have the same treatment
as stated last month. Little water and a good deal of air
must be given to those houses where the fruit is beginning
to ripen. Those-in which the fruit is past ought to be con-
stantly under a system of thorough ventilation.

The Gveen-house will now be occupied with tender
green-house plants and annuals, and the more hardy plants
from the stove, for here these last will remain longer in
flower. Shift, repot, and propagate all fine plants, peren-
nials, biennials, or annuals, and cuttings of all sorts that
are desirable. Sow fragrant or showy annuals, to flower
in pots during winter.

‘Flower Garden.—Take up- bulbs and tuberous roots,
and dry them in the shade before you remove them to the
store-room. Fill up with annuals and green-house plants
those beds from which the bulbs and roots have been raised.
After this season, keep always a reserve of annuals in pots,
or planted on beds or thin layers of well-rotted hotbed
dung, from which they are easily removed with balls, to fill
up any blanks which may occur in the borders or parterre.
Sow perennials, if neglected last month, to be planted out
in spring. Lay and pipe carnations and pinks in the end
of the month. Pay particular attention to the staking and
tying up of every plant that requires it, especially young

CALENDAR—TJULY. . 391

dahlias, as they are easily destroyed by high winds; in dry
weather water abundantly, as many plants are*much im-
proved by it, especially dahlias. Attend to the dressing
and cleaning of borders and walks, and the mowing of grass
lawns.

JULY.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow peas weekly till after the mid-
dle of the month, when the last crop for the season may be
putin. In the last week, sow yellow turnip for a full
winter crop, and spinach for an early winter crop; endive,
for autumn and winter crops, in the beginning and end of
the month; also successional erops of lettuce and small
salads. Harly cabbayes for coleworts should be sown in
the first week.

Plant full crops of celery and celeriac about the middle
and end of the month; late ereps of broccoli, cauliflower,
and coleworts, in the last week. Gather and dry medical
and pot herbs; also propagate such by slips and cuttings.

Fruit- Trees.—Continue the summer pruning and train-
ing of all wall and espalier-rail trees, with the destruction
of insects. All heavy or overabundant crops of fruit ought
to be thinned, as otherwise not only are the size and quality
of the fruit deteriorated, but the trees exhausted and in-
jured. Plant strawberries in pots, for forcing next winter.
Propagate different sorts of fine fruit-trees by budding on
other trees, or on prepared stocks.

Forcing.—Attend to the pruning of melons and cucum-
bers, giving air and water, renewing linings, &c. Go on
with the usual cultivation of the pinery, but withhold
water from the plants when the fruit begins to ripen.
Have the old plants with suckers on them put into a brisk
bottom-heat, giving proper supplies of water: this will

392 CALENDAR-——AUGUST.

increase their size very much, and materially shorten the
period of their coming into fruit. The forcing-houses ought
to have the same treatment as stated for last month.

In the Green-house, little alteration will take place
in the culture and management from that given for last
month; necessary attention being paid to potting, shifting,
and putting in cuttings, and giving abundance of water to
the potted plants, both in the house and out of doors. ©

Flower-Garden and Shrubbery.—Take up the remain-
der of tuberous roots, such as anemone and ranunculus;
finishing by the end of the first week; fill up their places,
and any vacancies that may have occurred, with annuals
from the reserve ground. Propagate all the finer herba-
ceous plants that have gone out of flower, by means of cut-
tings and slips; also select roses and American shrubs, by
layering, budding, or cuttings. Go on with the laying,
piping, and striking of carnations, pinks, pansies, and the
different varieties of superennial plants, as Sweet- William,
pink, catchfly, double rocket, and double wallflower, in
hand-glasses, or in shaded situations. Attend to the
staking and tying up of dahlias and strong herbaceous
plants. Great attention must now be paid to cleaning in
every department, weeds springing up after every shower.

AUGUST.
ts

In the Kitchen- Garden, sow winter and spring spinach
in the beginning and about the middle of the month;
parsely and winter onions, fora full erop in the first week ;
cabbages, cauliflower, savoys, and German greens, about the
middle of the month, for planting out in spring; lettuce in
the first and last week ; small salads occasionally ; black
Spanish, red and white queen radish, for winter crops.

CALENDAR—AUGUST. 393

Plant and earth up celery and endive. Plant stawberries.
A few coleworts may still be put in.

Fruit Garden.—Proceed in the training and regulation
of summer shoots of all fruit-trees, as directed for the last
three months. Attend to the thinning of the fruit where
necessary. Mat up, in dry weather, gooseberry and cur-
rant-bushes, to preserve the fruit till late in the autumn.
Every exertion must now be used by the gardeners to pre-
serve the ripening fruit on the walls from insects, and de-
stroy wasp nests.

Forcing.—The same routine of cultivation in hotbeds
and pits may be proceeded in as stated for last month.
Sow, and propagate by cuttings, in the beginning of the
month, cucumbers, to be afterwards grown in hot-water
pits, or in boxes in the front of the pine-stove, for a winter
crop. In the pinery, most of the fruit will be cut by the
middle of the month, when a general shifting of succession-
plants should take place; as also a potting of suckers;
but these will be strengthened by being allowed to remain
on the old plant untill the end of this month. In the forcing-
houses where the crops are past, part of the sashes may be
removed so as to permit thorough ventilation.

Green-house.—Attend to the propagation of all sorts of
green-house plants by cuttings, and to the replacing in the
green-house and stoves the more tender species, by the end
of the month in ordinary seasons, but in wet weather in
the second week. Sow half-hardy annuals, as Clarkia,
Schizanthus, Coreopsis, &c., to flower during winter. Also
begin to propagate the various species of the half-hardy
green-house plants, noticed under February, for decorating
the flower garden in the following summer.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery.—Sow in the second and

the last week, on a warm border of a light, sandy soil, with
hi”

394 CALENDAR—SEPTEMBER.

an east aspect, for planting out in spring, Clarkia pulchella,
pulchella alba, Gillia capitata, Collomia coccinea, Coreopsis
tinctoria, Cinothera Lindleyana, roseo-alba, Romanzovii,
Collinsia verna, grandiflora, bicolor, Hutoca viscida, Lepto-
siphon densiflorus, Nemophila insignis, Escholtzia califor-
nica, &c, Sow auricula and primula seeds in pots and
boxes. Propagate all sorts of herbaceous plants by rooted
slip; lay chrysanthemums; in the first week take off
layers of carnations, pink, and pansies. Transplant ever-
greens in moist weather, about the end of the month; and
propagate them by layers and cutting.

SEPTEMBER.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow afew small salads for late crops;
lettuce, parsley, and spinach, if not done last month, for
spring crops. Plant endive and lettuce. If broccoli be
too strong or tall to withstand the winter, lift them and
lay them nearly up to the neck in the earth. Lift onions,
and lay them out to win ona dry border or gravel-walk.
Lift potatoes and store them.

Fruit Trees, §c.—Finish the summer pruning and
training. Assist the maturing of the fruit, and, what is
equally important, the ripening of the young wood for next
year, of peaches and nectarines on hot walls, with fires dur-
ing the day. Gather and lay up in the fruit-room with
care the autumnal sorts of apples and pears. In the first

eweek, plant strawberries for a main crop next season.

Forcing.—Take care that late crops of melons and
cucumbers be not injured by damping, from getting too
much water and too littléair. In the pinery, the usual
routine of cultivation may be carried on; in the first week
take off and pot all strong suckers, if not done in the

CALENDAR.—SEPTEMBER. 395

middle of last month; the remainder may be taken off at
the end of the month, and planted in old tan in a frame or
pit prepared for that purpose: in this way they will be
found to keep much better over the winter, and to be better
supplied with roots than if they had been potted, which
ought never to be done after this season. LHxpel damp,
and assist the ripening of late crops of grapes and peaches
with fires during the day. Prune early grape-vines and
peaches.

Green-house, Conservatory, §c.—All repairs of paint-
ing or glazing ought to be finished by the first week, as
many plants will require to be taken into the houses by the
20th of the month; in ordinary seasons comparatively few
green-house plants can be trusted in the open air after this
period. Pelargoniums and half-hardy green-house plants
may be kept in frames or in sheltered situations until the
end of October. Pot hyacinths, polyanthus narcissus, and
tulips for forcing. The same attention must be given to
the propagation of half-hardy green-house plants (see Feb-
ruary), as directed for last month. Remove stage auriculas
to the winter frames about the middle of the month; also
tender alpine plants, keeping the glass-frame shut in wet
weather. arly in this month replace in the stove all
succulents that may have been kept in the green-house or
in the open air during the summer months.

Flower Garden, &§c.—Sow in the beginning of this
month all half-hardy annuals stated for last month, if not
done at that time. Sow also the different species of
primula, and the seeds of all such plants, for, if sown in
spring, they seldom come up the same season, but if sown
in September or October, they vegetate readily in the suc-
ceeding spring. Continue the propagation of herbaceous
plants, taking off the layers of carnations, pinks, and pan-

396 CALENDAR.——OCTOBER.

sies, and putting them into a nursery-bed for the winter.
Pot chrysanthemum layers by the end of the month. Keep
all dahlias and tall herbaceous plants properly staked and
tied up, as they are very liable to be broken by high winds
at this season. The same attention must be given to the
cleaning and dressing of this department as directed for
the former months. Plant evergreens; make layers, and
put in cuttings of most of the hard-wooded sorts of
shrubby plants, about the middle and end of the month, as
many will succeed better at that season than if these opera-
tions were delayed to a later period.

OCTOBER.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow small salads and radishes in the
first week; Mazagan and Marshall’s dwarf beans and early
frame peas (Warwick variety) in the last week. If the
winter prove mild, they will be somewhat earlier than those
sown next month or in January. Prepare and make up
mushroom-beds.

Plant early cabbages in close rows for spring use. A bed
of cauliflowers in the last week, to receive the protection
of a three-light frame; or, at any rate, plant cauliflower at
the bottom of a high wall or hedge ina sheltered situation.
Karth up celery and cardoons.

Store potatoes, beet, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, carrots,
parsnips, by the end of the month.

Fruit Garden.—Such fruit trees as have dropped their
leaves may be transplanted. Protect fig-trees, if the
weather prove frosty, as soon as they have cast their leaves.
Cover late crops of grapes on hot walls with woolen nets or
mats, to prevent injury from frost. Store and lay up very
carefully during the month all sorts of apples -and pears,

CALENDAR—OCTOBER. 397

the longest-keeping sorts not before the end of the month,
if the weather be mild; a part of them may be placed in
a close cellar.

Forcing.—Assist hotbeds and pits with fresh linings to
keep up the declining heat of such as have not ripened
their crops. Late vineries and peach-houses will still re-
quire the application of fire-heat to ripen the wood; for if
this be not accomplished, the next crop will be inferior both
in quantity and quality. Give abundance of air to the
pinery in good weather, gradually lowering the heat.
Prune and dress early vines and peaches; clean and repair
the forcing-houses and their flues ; continue the preparation
and formation of mushroom-beds.

Green-house.—Replace all sorts of green-house plants
at an early period, as many of them are often much injured
by cold rains and frosty mornings at this season. Fill the
pits with pots of stocks, mignonette, and hardy annuals,
- for planting out in spring, along with many of the more
hardy sorts of green-house plants. The whole ought to be
thoroughly ventilated, except in frosty weather. Water
sparingly. Begin to force roses, hyacinths, and a few other
bulbs, for winter and early spring decoration.

Flower Garden.—Sow a few sorts of hardy annuals in a
frame, or on a sheltered border, for spring use, as directed
for August.

Plant the greater part of the common border bulbs
about the end of the month, with a few anemones for early
flowering. Transplant strong plants of biennials and per-
ennials to their final situations.

Protect alpine plants, stage auriculas and carnations,
with glass frames; half-hardy green-house plants, such as
fuchsias, &c., about the end of the month, with coverings
of broom or spruce-fir, preferring the latter. Take up, dry,

s

398 CALENDAR—NOVEMBER.

and move dahlias and tigridia tubers in the end of the
month ; pot lobelias from the open borders.

Transplant all sorts of hardy evergreens and shrubs, no-
ticing in dry soils to give abundance of water. Put in cut-
tings of all sorts of evergreens. Attend to the removal
of decayed plants, leaves, and rubbish from the walks and
borders,

NOVEMBER.

Kitchen Garden.—Sow early frame peas, preferring the
Warwick variety, and mazagan beans, in the second week,
for an early crop. Protect endive, celery, artichoke, sea-
kale, with stable-litter or ferns; mulch asparagus with
hotbed dung; take up endive, late cauliflower, early broc-
coli, and lettuces, and lay them in an open shed, or in old
cucumber and melon-pits, which will protect them from
frost, and afford a supply during winter. Force rhubarb
and sea-kale in the open border, under boxes, or cases, sur-
rounded and covered with well-fermented stable-litter.

Fruit Garden.—Plant all sorts of fruit trees in fine
weather, giving an abundant supply of water to settle the
earth about the roots. Commence and carry on the various
operations of pruning and nailing when the weather may
permit. Take off such late sorts of apples and pears as
may remain on the trees, and lay them carefully in the
fruit-room ; which place will require frequent examination,
and the removal of all decayed fruit.

Forcing.—In hotbeds and pits keep up the requisite
degree of heat by frequent additions to the linings. Cu-
cumbers and pines, on hotbeds, will require more than or-
dinary attention, to prevent them damping off from too
much moisture. Where a circulation of hot water in pipes

CALENDAR—DECEMBER. 399

is employed for heating, the necessary temperature and dry-
ness are much more under the control of the gardener.
Force asparagus, rhubarb, and sea-kale, in the mushroom-
house or pits for a supply at Christmas. Attend to the
forcing of mushrooms. In the forcing-houses, prune and
train the trees; dig and dress the borders of those houses
in which this operation has not already been done. The
forcing of vines is sometimes commenced at this season ;
but the progress must be very slow at first: the crops re-
sulting from such early forcing are generally inferior in
quantity.

Green Houses, §-c.—All hardy green-house plants must
now be properly protected, by being replaced in the green-
house or in pits. Give abundance of air in fresh weather,
only applying heat to keep out the frost during the night,
or to expel the damp, with the assistance of air through
the day: remove all decayed or injured leaves, watering
only such plants as require it; the plants in the alpine and
auricula frames ought still to have plenty of air, but very
little water. Commence the forcing of rhododendrons,
kalmias, roses, hyacinths and tulips, in the stove or in pits.

Flower Garden, §c.—Plant dried tubers of border flowers,
but the finer sorts had better be deferred till spring. Pro-
tect such half-hardy plants as were not sheltered last
month. Plant deciduous trees and shrubs as long as the
weather continues favorable. Dig and dress such flower-
borders and shrubberies as may now be cleared of annuals
and the stems of herbaceous plants.

DECEMBER,

Kitchen and Flower Garden.—About Christmas, sow
a few of the same sorts of peas and beans as in November.

400 SELECT LIST OF FRUITS.

Very few operations can be carried on during this month,
with the exception of trenching and digging in dry weather ;
but this ought not to be neglected.

Plant all sorts of fruit trees in mild weather. Proceed
with pruning and nailing wall trees, whenever an opportu-
nity occurs. Examine the fruit-room every week, re-
moving the fruit found in a state of decay.

Forcing, §c.—Go on with the usual culture of those
houses which have been commenced, or are now put into
operation, attending to the necessary degrees of heat, &e. ;
the same attention to hotbeds and bits will be necessary,
as in the last month. Continue the forcing of asparagus,
rhubarb, sea-kale, and mushrooms, in pits, or in the mush-
room-house.

Green-house, §-c.—The directions for last month will
be found equally applicable for this.

Flower Garden, &c.—The directions for last month will
also be found equally applicable to this. Rake and sweep
leaves from lawns and gravel-walks, repairing the latter as
occasion may require.

SELECT LIST OF FRUITS.

APPLES.
EARLY.
Early Harvest, Early Strawberry,
Large Yellow Bough, (Sweet), Red Astrachan.
AUTUMN.
Fall Pippin, Autumn Strawberry,
Gravenstein, Jersey Sweet,

Hawley, Porter.

SELECT LIST OF FRUITS.

Baldwin,
Belmont,
Ladies’ Sweet,

Ananas D’ Ete,
Bloodgood,
Bartlett,

Flemish Beauty,

Louise Bon d’ Jersey,
Onondaga, or Swan Orange,
Belle Lucrative,

Doyenne Boussock,

Lawrence,
Easter Beurre,

Green Gage,
Jefferson,
Early Orleans,

401

WINTER.
Rhode Island Greening,
Esopus Spitsenburgh,
Roxbury Russett.

PEARS.

EARLY.
Madeleine,
Tyson,
Canandaigua.

AUTUMN.

Seckel,
White Doyenne, in some localities,
Duchess de Angouleme,
Beurre Bosc,
Beurre Diel.
WINTER.

Winter Nellis,
Vicar of Winkfield.
PLUMS.

Smith’s Orleans,
Washington, -
Coe’s Golden Drop.

CHERRIES.

Early Purple Guigne,
Bauman’s May,
Black Tartarian,

Bigareau of Yellow Spanish,
Governor Wood,
Downer’s late Red,

Black Eagle, Belle Magnifique.

APRICOTS.
Large Early, Moorpark and Dubois Early Golden.

NECTARINES.
Early Violet, Downton.
PEACHES.

Early York, Bergen’s Yellow,
George 4th, Crawford’s Early,
Morris White, “< Late,
Cooledge’s Favorite, Heath Cling.

402 SELECT LIST OF FRUITS.

GRAPES.
Under Glass.
Black Hamburgh, Black Prince,
White Frontignan, White Muscat of Alexandria.
Open Air.
Isabella, Catawba, Diana.
RASPBERRIES.
Red and Yellow Antwerp, Kuevett’s Grant,
Fastoff, Franconia.

BLACKBERRIES.
Lawton, or New Rochelle.

STRAW BERRIES.

Large Early Scarlet, Longworth’s Prolific,

Hovey’s Seedling, M’ Avoy’s Superior,

Burr’s New Pine, Monroe Scarlet,

Jenney’s Seedling, ~M’ Avoy’s Extra Red for Market,

CURRANTS.

Red and White Dutch, Cherry,

Black Naples, White Grape.
GOOSEBERRIES.

Woodward’s Whitesmith, Crown Bob,

Crompton’s Sheba Queen, Houghton’s Seedling.

PN DES.

AXthusa - -
Air-plants (orchidacee)

great variety - - Bw aad:
culture - - - - 295
Airing of hot-houses”~ - = oh
Alderstone melon-pit = - - 364
Almond-tree, culture ofthe - 106
Alpine or rock plants’ - a ok
American blight - - - 138
ground - - - - 239
plants for the - - - 240
Anemone - - - - 267
culture of the - - - 269
properties ofa fine one - 7b.
soiland culture “= - 269
Angelica - - - eee
Annual plants - - - 256
hardy - - - - 257
half-hardy = - - 71 SEB;
tender - - - - 258
Annuals recommended - - 265
Aphis, American - - - 138
wash for - - ee (a
Apples, select varieties - - 400
Apples and pears, modes of
. storing - - - 138
Apples, best for cider - 136, 137
best kindsinthe U.S. - 139
best stocks for geaiaing:
upon - 136
great age attained “s tree 141
Paradise, Doucin, and crab
stocks - = 136
remedy against the blight 138
Apple-tree, culture of the - 136
Apricots, kinds of, to be pre-
ferred - - vay ge:
Apricot-tree, on the manage-
ment of the - - = ALS
Asparagus, cultureof - - 206
forcing of = - - - 208
Atkinson’s melon-pit = - - 363
Auricula, classes of - - 274
composts for - - - 274
propagation of - - 275 |
Balm - - - - - 230,
Bark stove - . - - 285
plants - . - - 294
Barberry - - 167
Barbe de Pspentdn - - 215)
Barrenness of fruit-trees, how |
prevented - - - 48)

“216

294

Beans, best varieties for the U.S.
Beet, red, culture
sea-kale- — -
white - -
Bergamot pears -
Beurre brown -
d’Aremberg -
Diel and Rance
Biennial plants” - -
Biennials, ornamental, recom-
mended - - -
Blackberry - - -
Blossoms, protecting of, in fruit-
trees, - - =
Borage - - - -
Borecole, kinds, &c., -
Broccoli, culture of - -
Brussels sprouts - -
Buchanan on the grape culture
recommended = -
Budding, propagation by
Bulbous, vernal plants -
Bullace - -
Burnet -
Bush basil - -

Cabbage, kinds and culture cal
Calendar, monthly - -
Camellias, cultivation of
Canteloupes - - -
Cape heaths, or ericae
Capsicum or chilly -
Caraway - -
Carnation - -
propagation of
varieties and culture of
Carnations, cultivation of
Carrots, kinds and culture
Cashaw - -
Catawba grape -
mammoth -
white - -
Cauliflower, culture of
Celery, culture of -
Celeriac, culture of
‘Chamomile - -
Cherries, kinds of | - - -
geans, or guignes, what -
Guignier, Merisier, and Bi-

garotier, what’ - -
stocks preferred for fsges
ing on - -

190,

177
190
191

ib.
126
127
128
130
256

ib.
153

404

riders or sje sei
trees - - -
Marasca, Morello, Matia-
leb, and Mazzard -
how classified by the French
best kinds in the U.S. -
forcing the fruit = - -
Cherry-house, management of
Cherry-tree, pruning and train-
ie = -
Chervil - -
Chestnut-tree -
Chicory - -
Chive - - -
Chrysanthemum sinense, culti-
vation of = - - -
Ciboule - - - -
Cigar-box grape - - -
Cions, importance of their being
taken from healthy wood
in shy-hearing trees should
be taken from the most
fruitful branches - -
mode of preserving - -
preparing of, for grafting -
Citron des Carmes, pear -
Citron, or cedrate - + -
Clary - - - . -
Climbing shrubs, recommended
Clingstone peaches - - -
nectarines - - -
Cloudberry - - ~ -
Coffee chickory = - - -
Colmar and Passe Colmar, fine
pears - - - -
Colworts - - - -
Conservatory, general structure
plants - - - -
Corbett’s hot-water system an-
ticipated = -
Coriander - -
Corn salad - - -
Costmary - -
Couper’s large red plum
Cranberries, culture of -
Crasanne pear - -
Cress, garden, raising of
water - - -
Crocus - - -
Cucumbers, forcing of - 369,
kinds and culture of 225,
West’s forcing pit - -
varieties of + - -
raised for pickling - -
Currants, red and white -
black = - - - -

Curvilinear roofs - -
Cuttings, propagation by

INDEX.

Dahlia, or Georgina, ey of
121 culture of -
New varieties, how protared

271
273
2712

122 properties ofa fineone - ib,
ab. varieties of, how classed - 1b.
123 | Damson plums - - - 117
336 | Diana grape - - - - 74
ib. | Dill - - - - - 229
Doyenne pear - - - 126
121 | Dwarf wall-trees - - - 52
223
146 | Easter beurre pear - - h29
214 | Edgings for flower-borders - 242
200| Egg plant - - - - 226
Elder - - - - «et
280 | Elsenburg grape - - apn hg
195 | Endive, culture of - - 214
73 | Epiphytes, cultivation of. - 295
Erica, cultivation of = - - 289
45 Espalier-rails - - 30, 52
trees, training - -. 53
Everlasting potato - «+ 179
46
ib. | Fan-training of fruit-trees - 60
wb. | Fences of garden - - - 26
124 | Fennel and Finochio - - 229
338 | Fettitus - - - - 205
230 | Fig-house, general management
247 of the - - - 337
95 | Figs, kinds and culture - 90, 91
ib. | Filbert - - - - - 145
167 | Florists’ Flowers, what - «. 259
216 | Flower-beds, shapes of - - 236
Flower-garden, principles and
129 national styles of - 231, 232
169 situation and form of - 231
283 soilfor - - - =, 289
290 two British styles - - 234
Flower garden walks . - 241
315 Flowering plants, howto be ar-
230 ranged to produce the
205 best effect - - - 250
230 | Flues, construction of — - - 299
116 Forcing department = - - 298
163 Freestone peaches - - - 94
128 Frontignac grapes - - 64
219 Fruit-garden, general manage-
ib. mentof - - - 37
271 | Fruit, protection of - - 62
370 Fruit, select varieties of - - 400
370 Fruit-trees, influence of the stock
363 upon the graft, with
370 modes of obviating - 38
ib. | mode of procuring uncon-
i | taminated seedlings of
best varieties - -
321 limitation of existence in
43 | choice kinds - - 39

INDEX.

Fruit-trees, Mr. Knight’s experi-

Grapes, great success of grape

405

ments for producing im- culture in Cincinnati - 71
proved and hardy varieties 40 the Isabella, Catawba; and
means of accelerating the other best native Ameri-
bearing of, and vines - 42 can grapes, described - 72
propagation by outings best foreign grapes for un-
and layers - - 43 der-glass cultureinU.S. 74
propagation by grafting Mr. Longworth’s observa-
with different kinds of tions - - - 75
stocks to suit various Mr. Buchanan’s trestige
sorts of fruit - - 44 upon - - - eg
modes of improving their propagation of the vines - ib.
fruitfulness by ringing, grafting grape vines - 80
root-pruning, &c. - - 61 single-eye mode of propa-
mode of double working gation - - - - 81
pear-trees - - - 131 planting out - - - . 82
Fuchsia - - - - 247) pruning - - - - 84
Furnaces, plans of - - - 300 proper soil and manures - 1b,
management under glass - 85
Gansel’s bergamot pear - - 127 fall and winter trimming - 86
Garden, proper size, situation, &e. 22 bearing capacities, how es-
enclosure-walls - 226 timated - - * 87
soil, manures, &e. - 31-33 routine of grape-house cul-
internalarrangement - 34 ture without fire-heat - 88
cress - - - - 218 forcing grapes ripe at all
patience - - - = 205 seasons - - - 325
Gardens, winter and summer - 238] Grasses for lawns - - a Be
Garlic, culture of - - - 200) Gravel for garden walks - 341
Girkins for pickling - - 371)|Green-gage plum - - = 115
Gladioli, or corn flags = - - 271) Green-house, structure of - 282
Glazed houses - - = 282 plants recommended - 299
Gooseberries, kinds and culture of 149 | Guigne-trees - - - 121
Gourds, cultivation of - - 371
Gowan’s mode of grafting oe tel Hampton Court vine, astonish-
vines - - os ing productiveness of - 69
Grafting, propagation ia - 44} Hazel-bush, culture of - - 144
by approach - - - 47) Heath-house - - - -~ 284
of grape-vines - - 81} Heaths, hardy, list of - - 290
Grapes in flower-pots - - 68) Heating by hot water - - 307
for wine - - - - 7b| Heating of Bee houses by
on walls - - - - 68 steam - 302
varieties and culture - 63) Herbaceous Gee awentel ipiaste
best selection for an ordi- recommended = - - 249
nary vinery - - 67 vernal, summer, - 353, 254
kinds commonly grown _ autumnal - - - 255
against the open wall in Herbaceous perennial plants, -
England and Scotland - 68 how propagated - - 256
the celebrated Hampton Herbs, sweet, list of = - - 230
Court vine - - - 69] Horizontal training of wall-
great age attained by vines 7b. trees, Hitt, &e. - - 56
ill success in culture of Horse-radish, culture of - - 229
foreign grapesinthe U.S. 7. | Horticultural ioe noticesof 18
Dr. Underhill’s observa- Hops - - 200
tions on the grape culture Hotheds—Hotbed fraines - 362
in the U.S. - - ib. | Hot-houses, their principal objects 298
Mr. Wilson’s plan of pro- flues and furnaces for - 299
tecting foreign grapes in method of applying surface

winter - - sinsO and bottem heat - -

-

406

Hot-houses, warming with hot
water, and principles of

INDEX.

the apparatus == - 307
common tank boiler and
furnace - - - 308
Mr. Rogers’ boiler de-
scribed and delineated - 309
hot-water pnEeane for a
vinery 312
siphon eae applied . = 313
Perkin’s hermetically seal-
edtubes — - - - 314
Corbett’s mode of heating 315
Randle’s method by tanks — 2b.
sun's rays, efficiency of - 316
fermentable substances used
to create bottom-heat - ib.
necessity of the skiliful man-
agement of artificial heat 317
admission of air to be well
regulated = - - - 317
admission of light - = oe
proper pitch of roofs - 320
Curvilinear roofs proposed 321
foreign plants frequently in-
troduced into fruit-houses 335
Hyacinth, cultivation of - - 260
marks of a fine one - - 274
exorbitant prices of, in Hol-
land - - - - 262
Dutch compost for raising 260
culture, forcing 260, 261, 262
new varieties, how produced 263
Hyssop - - - - - 230
Inarching - - ~ 42
Indian cress, tuberous - - 194
Insects, destroying of = - - 101
Iris, varieties of, and cultivation 268
Persian and snake’s head
species - - eo ay
Tsabella grapes - - eg.
Jargonelle pear - ~ - 124
Jasmine - ~ - - 244
Jerusalem artichoke - - 185
Kale, culture of = - - - 170
Kentish cherry - 120
Knight’s theory fogarding the
age of fruits - 48
new pears - - - 130
Kohl-rube, culture of - - 170
Lambs’ lettuce - - - 205
Lawns, grasses for - - ae) 20
Lavender - - - - 236
Layers, propagation by - - 43

Leeks, culture of - - -
Lemon - - - - -
Lettuce, kinds and culture -
Light, necessity of, in een
houses =

Lilies, cultivation of - -
Lima beans - - - -
Lime, sweet - - -

Lobelia, kind for flower-garden
Longueville pear - - -

Ohio grape - - -
Longworth on the grape culture
Love-apple - - - -
Mahaleb cherry -

Manures for gardens -
Marie-Louise pear - -
Merigold - - -
Mayduke cherry - -
Medlar-tree, culture of -
Melonry, for forcing melons
Melon pit, Alderston’s -
West’s and Atkinson’s
Melons, kind and culture
forcing of - -
different. kinds -
proper heat required for
Mildew and insects, to destro
on fruit trees =
Missouri grape - -
Montreuil peach-training
Moorpark apricot - -
Morello cherry - -
Mould and soils for green-houses
Mulberry-tree, culture of -
Mulching, great advantage of
Muscat grapes - - -
Mushrooms, culture of - -
Mustard, culture of - -

Bk Op ee he Be Wee ee? ee rs 8s ose we

Narcissus, genus, cultivation of

Nasturtium. -

Nectarines, best inde for Ui s.
kinds and culture - -
mode of producing new va-

rieties - - -
protection against insects -
varieties and culture -

Netted citron - - -

New Zealand spinach - ~

Noblesse peach - - -

Norton’s grape - -

Nutmeg canteloupe - -

Okra - - - -

Oldacre’s mushroom-bed .
Onions, kind and culture - -
Orache - - - - -

INDEX. 407
Orangery, general management 339) Plant-stove, inmates of - - 285
Orange, bitter - - - ib.| Planting of fruit-trees - -, 60
citron or cedrate - - 338/ Plants requiring a peaty soil - 240
propagating eth one 340 shrubby, for edgings - 242
sweet - 339 such as are to be wintered
tribe - - - - 338 under glass - - - 250
Orchard, site, culture, &. - 36/ Plums, kinds and culture - his
Orchidaceze - - - - 295| Plum-tree, best kindsin U.S. - 118
tropical - - - - 1. destruction of fruit by the
Oxalis roots, culture of - =) 7198 curcuilo, how counteracted 118
Oyster plant - - - = 191] Polyanthus, cultivation of - 276
Pond, how to make it impervious
Parsnips, culture of : - 189 to water = - - - 238
Parsley, culture of - - - 216) Pond’s seedling grapé = > 74
Patience, garden - - 205) Potato onion - - - - 197
Peaches, best in the U. S. 99, 100} Potato, sweet - - - 184
enemies of the peach tree, Potatoes, kinds and culture - 179
and remedies against - 100 forcing Of iit - - 182
English and French modes varieties best known in U. 8. 182
of training the tree - 105} Powell grape, - - - 72
modes of cultivatingin U. S. 106} Primula, cultivation of - - 276
mode of obtaining new va- Propagation of plants in green-
rieties - - - iO houses - - - 287
modes of protecting the Pruning - - a2 BS
blossoms in England - 111 Prussian grass - - - 209
plans of pruning for fruit 105} Pumpkin - - - - 224
Varieties and subvarieties 96,97} Purslane - - - - 228
when trees are to be trimmed 111 | Pyramide training - - 54
Peach-house, structure and
managementof - 331, 332) Quenouille training - - 5b
Pears, best kinds of fruit in U.S. 134 | Quince-tree, culture of - - I4t
fine kinds - - - 124} Quinoa spinach, culture of - 204
grafting of the tree - - 131
influence of the parent stock Radish, culture of - - - 192
* upon the fruit = - - 132 Ranunculus, cultivation of - 265
kitchen sorts - - - 131 properties of a fine one - ib.
autumnal and winter sorts 130 proper soil for the beds - 266
Mr. Knight’s varieties - 133 propagation of - - 267
summer management of Raspberries, kind and culture of 151
trees - . - - 134| Rendle’s tank heating - - 315
Pear tree, management of |= - 131|Rhododendrons = - - 245
Pears and apples, modes of storing 138 | Rhubarb, kinds and culture - 220
Pearl onion - . - - 197 | Rider wall-trees - - «= 52
Peas, kinds and culture - - 175|Rocambole - - - - 200
Peat-soil for flower-garden - 239} Rock-work - - = Pod
Peat,when only partially decom- plants reconimedthded for
posed, prejudicial to nso 240 decorating the - - 1b.
Pelargoniums - - 289) Rogers’ conical boiler - - 309
Pennyroyal - - - - 230 | Root-grafting - - <4
Pepper grass - - - - 220) Rosary, management of the - 248
Peppermint - - - - 230| Rosemary - e - - 230
Perennials, tall ornamental - 250
Peruvian rice - - - 205] Sage—Salad herbs - - 230
Panpersell =) = “= * = 230) Salsify -' = va) (=. .~ OF
Pine-apples, kinds of - 341, 342) Savory, winter - - 230
pits and culture - - 343) Savoy greens, culture of - - 169
Pinks, cultivation of = - - 278) Scallions, mode of producing - 195
Plant-stove, structure of - - 285 | Scarioles - - - - 214

408

Scorzonera, culture of - -
Scuppernong grape - -
Sea-kale, culture and forcing of,
in open borders. - -
Seed, mode of raising fruits from
Seedling fruits, raising of -
Service-tree, culture of - -
Shaddock-fruit, culture of -
Shallot, culture of - - -
Shelter, necessity and means of
Shrubs, deciduous - - -

evergreens - - -

in planting out, how to be
disposed - - -
ornamental, recommended
propagation of - -
Situation for fruit-garden, &c.,
selection of - - -

of flower gardens - -
Siphon employed in circulating
hot water - - -
Skirret, culture of - - -
Sloe - - -
Soil, best for kitchen anion -
for flower garden - -
Sorrel, common and French -
Spearmint - - - -
Spinach, culture of -~— -
wild - - ah te
Squash - - - NS
Standard fruit-trees, training of
Steam, use of, for heating glazed
houses - - -

Stocks of fruit-trees, influence of,

upon the graft = - -
. Paradise, Doucin, Bullace,

Mahaleb-~ - < i
for fruit-trees - : “
Stove plants - - “ =

compost for - = 2
Strawberry, male and female
how distinguished -

bank - - - -
Strawberries, kinds and culture
of - - - >

forcing of -
Succory, culture of -
Summer savory -
Sweet basil - -

INDEX,

292
293

161
158

155
159
215
231

tb.

THE

Sweet herbs - - 2 .
marjoran - 2 “
Syrian grape - - =

Tanks, heating by means of
Tetragonia, culture of -
Training of fruit-trees -
Trenching, advantages of
Tulips, cultivation of = - -
Turnips, kinds and culture’ = -
Turnip-rooted cabbage - -

Vegetable marrow - - -
Verdelho grape - ak he
Vernal plants - - -
Vinery, forcing in the early
vinery, when to be com-
menced and proper de-
grees of heat = - -
structure of the - -
training of vines in the =<
Vines, grape, sorts cultivated =
Vine, famous one at Hampton
Court - - - -

great ageofone 8 -
sorts adapted to the U. s.
protection of, in winter -
propagation “of - -
Violets, sweet - - .

Walks, garden, forming ee
Walls; inclosure_ -
hot = - -
Wall-borders - - -
Wall-trees, training of -
Walnut-tree, general manage-
ment of the - - -
Washington plum - -
Water, necessity of a supply of
hot, for heating glazed
houses - ~ -
melon - - -
Welsh onion - - -
West’s melon pit
Winter garden
squash - -
Witty’s furnace

6
e

Zante, or Corinth grape

END.

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