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PRACTICAL GUIDE

BREAKING AND TRAINING

YOUNG HORSE.

CORPORAL MAJOR ROBERT TURNER,

ASSISTANT RIDING MASTER, ROYAL HORSE GUARDS.

^etiicatet), bg wpwjS* permission, to

FIELD MARSHAL

THE MOST NOBLE THE MAKQUIS OF ANGLESEY,

K.G., G.C.B., G.C.H., &C, &C.

LONDON :
PARKER, FURNIVALL, AND PARKER,

MILITARY LIBRARY, WHITEHALL.

MDCCCLI.

DEDICATION

TO

FIELD MAESHAL THE MOST NOBLE

THE MARQUIS OF ANGLESEY,

E.G., G.C.B., G.C.H. &c, &c.

My Lord,

Besides returning your Lordship my most
grateful thanks for the high honor you have conferred
upon me in permitting this work to be published under
your sanction and patronage, I have only to add, that
whatever shall be found set down therein, is the result of
more than twenty-two years' experience and practice in
the Riding School, aided by a strong partiality for that
department of Regimental duty, to which my time and
attention have been most especially devoted.

Again thanking your Lordship for the encouragement
you have bestowed on my humble efforts for the advance-
ment of a noble and useful science, and the proper training
and considerate treatment of a no less noble and useful
animal, I have the honor to subscribe myself,

Your Lordship's
Most humble and obedient Servant,

ROBERT TURNER.

Is* July, 1851.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

The Horse's Appointments.

PAoE

The Snaffle . . . . - 9

The Bit or Curb Bridle . . . . 10

The Martingal . . . . .11

The Saddle . . . . . . 13

The Breast Plate . . . . . ib

The Crupper . . - . . ib.

Principles of Training.

Saddling . . . . .17

Management of the Crupper . . . 18

The Cross . . . . .19

Mounting . . . . . 20

The Seat • . . . .22

Dismounting: . - . - 24

LESSONS.

First Lesson . . . . .26

Second Lesson . . . . 27

Third Lesson . . . . .30

Fourth Lesson . . . . 32

Fifth Lesson . . . . .34

VI

CONTENTS.

P^GE

Sixth Lesson . . . . . 35

Right Shoulder-in . . . 37

To Turn when working Shoulder-in . . 38

To Halt . . . . . ib.

The Half Passage . . . ib.

The Passage . . . - 39

To Turn in the Passage . . . . 40

To Halt in the Passage . . . ib.

To Turn from Right Pass to Right Shoulder-in . ib.

Seventh Lesson . . . . . 41

Eighth Lesson . . . . .42

Ninth Lesson . . . . . 44

Tenth Lesson . . . . .45

Bending with the Bit . . 48

Eleventh Lesson . . . . .49

Twelfth Lesson . . . . . 51

Rearing . . . . .55

Stumbling . . . . . 56

Over-reach . . . . ib.

Shying . . . . . 57

DEFECTS AND INFIRMITIES.

Malformations of the Head .

A Low Shoulder

The Narrow Chest

Weakness in the Back and Loins

Deformities of the Quarters, Hocks, and Pastern

Defects of the Foot an d Shoeing .

60
ib.
61
ib.
62

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

THE author of this little work is fully aware that he
can claim but little merit on the score of originality,
as many clever writers on this subject have preceded him ;
but their precepts are for the most part of so elaborate and
technical a nature, as to render them comparatively useless,
if not unintelligible, to the majority of readers. The ob-
ject of this short treatise is, to place within the reach of
every one, a few plain practical instructions, by which the
horse may be trained to work with comfort to himself, and
safety to his rider, thereby preventing numerous accidents
to both. The horse is beyond all contradiction, one of the
most beautiful, as well as valuable animals man has subju-
gated to his will, whether we view him in point of utility,
or as contributing to our pleasure ; and this perhaps may in
some degree, account for the ambition that seems natural to
most men, to be thought judges of this animal. Among
Englishmen in particular, this feeling seems to pervade
every rank, from the nobleman with his numerous stud to
the meanest helper in his stable. Even the mechanic, who
is rarely loosed from his toil, when he does take a holiday,
usually selects the race time for the occasion ; and although
he may never have crossed a horse, still takes an interest
in his performance, and delivers his opinion as to the quality
of the different animals, as boldly as if he were a profound
judge.

Now as so many believe themselves qualified to give an
opinion on this subject, and as there are but few who are
really competent to do so, it is by no means surprising that
many conflicting instructions, have, from time to time, been

8 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

published on horses, and on the best means of riding and
training them. And some reason may exist for this, when
we consider that horses vary so much in form and constitu-
tion, that even good judges very often differ, and not unfre-
quently, may be more or less in error.

My object is to instruct my readers as briefly, and as
plainly as the subject will admit of, in the best method of
training and riding young horses.

The horse, by nature, is a gentle and complying creature,
and resists rather from fear than obstinacy : bearing this in
mind, we must always endeavour to assure him, and give
him confidence; and therefore, the colt cannot be treated
with too much kindness, accompanied by caution and firm-
ness. The groom can do something to assist the rider in this
respect, for much of the horse's training depends upon his
treatment in the stable ; the person also to whom his train-
ing is entrusted, should be accustomed to horses, and not one
that would be frightened at every start they may make, for
many who are not aware of the natural timidity of colts,
alarm them by their own fears, in the way they approach
them; and as they soon perceive these fears, they will take
the earliest advantage of them, by endeavouring to prevent
any one from coming near them : for, the horse is very
sagacious, even when young, and watches every movement
about him, and will soon distinguish fear from firmness in
his attendant, or rider ; therefore he cannot be deceived by
assumed boldness, or by angry words ; but, on the contrary,
if you treat him with kindness, and when you touch him,
lay the hand on him with firmness, and speak gently to him,
he will soon become attached and friendly, which is the
first thing you should attempt to secure, since those he is
most familiar with and accustomed to, he will be the least
alarmed at, and will have the most confidence in. The
fewer persons about him the better.

The experience of many years * in forming and training

* Twenty-two years.

THE SNAFFLE. 9

horses of every variety of temper and capability, for mili-
tary purposes, (for which docility and obedience are espe-
cially requisite,) has convinced me, that with kind and ju-
dicious management, the horse becomes one of man's best
friends, as well as one of his most docile and willing ser-
vants ; whilst, on the contrary, by ignorance and cruel
treatment, he is driven into vice and habits quite foreign to
his nature.

Some excellent writers have disavowed their belief in
such a thing as a naturally vicious horse, and I am inclined
very much to the same opinion ; for, vice in horses is gen-
erally to be traced to the ignorance or cruelty, or both
combined, of those who have had the management of them ;
and if not confirmed by long habit, will disappear under
a kinder and better master.

While instructing the reader how to train and manage a
young horse, it is the author's design to teach him at the
same time how to make a horseman of himself, if he will
attend to and practise the rules laid down for his guidance.

As the horse's appointments, if ill -fitted, tend to make
him restless and uneasy, I will proceed to explain how they
ought to be adjusted, begging the reader, when going
through the training lessons, to refer to these instruc-
tions, as often as he may find the articles here specified
adverted to.

The Snaffle,

Being the first thing used in training a young horse,
great care must be taken to adjust it properly, as the effect
of this and every other bit, depends upon its being correctly
placed in the horse's mouth. The space between the fore
or nipping teeth and the jaw teeth or grinders, called the
bars, is the sensitive part of the horse's mouth, and where
the bit is most effective ; but, between the fore teeth and
a 3

10 THE BIT OR CURB BRIDLE.

grinders, horses have a canine tooth, called the tnsk, which
is rarely found in mares. In the horse's month then, the
mouth-piece should be placed so as to hang easy and loose,
that is, not so high as to wrinkle his lips — nor so low
as to make him fretful, but fitted in such a way that,
although loose and easy, the horse cannot get it below the
tusk. It should be placed one inch above the tusk, and
though, as I have said before, mares rarely have tusks, the
same attention must be paid to adjust it properly ; for, if
the snaffle is too low, you will never get a good, or steady
carriage of the head.

The throat -band must be buckled so as to admit three
fingers between it and the horse's jaw-bone.

The snaffle should be continued until the horse's mouth
is made, and we do not consider the mouth to be made,
until the horse will answer the slightest indication of the
rider's hand.

The Bit or Curb Bridle,

To be effective, should be placed in the horse's mouth,
so that the mouth-piece may rest on the bars or gums one
inch above the lower tusk, for mares, it should be placed
two inches above the corner tooth. The bridoon or snaffle,
must fit easy above the bit, so as not to wrinkle the lips;
the chain must lie smooth and flat under the chin, and
should, when properly adjusted, admit one finger to play
easily between it and the jaw-bone ; but never tighter, with
a view of punishing the horse's mouth.

Some bridles have also a nose-band; and this is not as
some seem to think, for ornament only, as it is intended to
prevent the horse from opening his mouth so as to defend
himself against the bit. It should be buckled beneath the
bridoon head-stall, and admit one finger between it and the

THE MARTINGAL. H

horse's nose ; if looser, it gives him every facility for doing
the very thing it is intended to prevent.

The nose -band also answers another purpose, for when it
is necessary to use a martingal, it is fastened to the
nose-band.

The Martingal.

The martingal is intended to control a horse that has the
habit of tossing up his head, which renders him not only
unpleasant, but unsafe to ride. The way in which it should
be fitted is, first to bring the horse's head to the position in
which you wish him to carry it, and there to secure the
martingal, taking care not to confine him too much, but just
sufficiently to prevent him being mischievous.

I must here remark, that the martingal is an unnecessary
appendage to one who is really a horseman; but there are
many who call themselves so, who have little claim to the
title, I mean such as fancy the horse is to carry them, and
also keep them on his back ; who hold themselves on as
much by their hands as by their legs ; and seem to imagine
that a horse's mouth has no feeling. Such persons, however,
should understand, that it is as sensitive and delicate as their
own, and ought to be handled as lightly as possible. With
proper treatment, the horse will carry his head as nature
intended; but if he has a good and light mouth, and
will not allow them the privilege of holding themselves
on by the bridle, they lay the blame upon the horse,
little thinking that he is all the , time rebuking them
for their awkwardness. Only let the rider's hand be light
and kind, and the horse will carry his head as he ought,
without the use of such restraints.

In many cases the martingal is unsafe, particularly if
badly fitted, as I have seen some, at least a foot too long,

12 THE MARTINGAL.

which might as well have been hanging on the pegs in the
saddle room, for all the assistance it conld afford the
rider. Others I have seen so short, that the horse's head
has been fastened to his chest, so that if he goes close to
the ground, and is apt to stumble, the rider must pull his
head down, and by these means, force him to fall, instead of
assisting him to recover.

If the horse is inclined to poke his nose out, as most
horses will, if they have a thick and narrow jole, and the
head badly put on, the rider should carry his inward hand
a little lower than the usual position, keeping the outward
hand in its proper position, for while the outward hand
raises the horse's head, the inward hand will cause him to
yield and bring his nose in. By paying daily attention to
this rule, the horse will soon be brought to carry his head
in the required position, at least, as far as the imperfection
of his form will allow him ; for we cannot undo what na-
ture has done, though we may remedy it to some extent,
without tying his head down with the martingal.

Again, for a kicking horse, the martingal is very im-
proper, as it will prevent the rider from keeping his horse's
head up; and if his head is held down by the martingal, he
has every chance to kick, in spite of his rider. I have
known horses kick till they have thrown themselves off
their legs ; but since they cannot get both ends up at one
time, if the rider can keep his horse's head up, he can never
kick so as to be dangerous. For these reasons, I affirm, that
the martingal is useless to a good rider, and dangerous to
a bad one.

I will here make bold to remark, that were the few rules
which will be found in these pages carefully observed and
practised in the training of horses, such articles as nose-
bands, martingals, and all restraints independent of the
hand, would be almost unknown. However, should my
reader be unfortunate enough to be obliged to have recourse
to them, I have explained how they ought to be applied.

THE CRUPPER. 13

The Saddle.

Care must be taken that the saddle fits the horse, and
does not in any way pinch or hurt his back. In putting it
on, it must be placed rather too forward, drawing it gently
back until it is in its proper position, which will be when
the front of it is four inches, or the breadth of the hand,
behind the play of the horse's shoulder. The object of
placing it too forward and drawing it back, is, that it may
smooth the horse's coat, and make it lie the proper way,
otherwise he might be rendered irritable and fretful. The
girths (more particularly with young horses) must be
drawn up gently, hole by hole, and not tighter than to
admit a finger easily between them and the horse's belly.
Should they be drawn up suddenly, or too tightly, it will
cause the horse to swell himself and plunge, which might,
in some instances, burst the girths, and the saddle, by falling,
would greatly alarm a young horse.

The Breast Plate

Is only used for military purposes ; and should be fitted
in such a manner that when the horse is standing well up
in front, the upper edge of the rosette or boss, should be
three inches above the sharp breast-bone of his chest, and
admit the breadth of the hand vertically, on the flat of
his shoulder bone, and also between the martingal and his
chest.

The Crupper

Is seldom used but with military saddles. When it is neces-
sary, it must be so adjusted as to admit the breadth of the
hand between it and the horse's croup ; I mean, that a man

14 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

ought to be able to place his hand upon the horse's back,
and turn it up vertically, his little finger resting on the
horse's back, and the crupper resting on his forefinger, with-
out pressing hard upon it.

Having instructed the reader as to the manner in which
the horse's appointments ought to be fitted, I will now as
briefly as possible, endeavour to teach him the best and
most expeditious mode of training the horse. To render
this simple, I will imagine that a young horse is sent
me to train, and will explain the successive lessons neces-
sary to render him not only perfectly safe, but pleasant to
his rider.

The horse being brought to the riding school, I com-
mence by putting a plain snaffle into his mouth, fitting it
according to my former instructions, with the reins so se-
cured that they cannot fall over his head, which may be
prevented by crossing or knotting them ; I then take the
guide rein (which is usually attached to a cavesson,) and
buckle it to the ring of the snaffle, and begin by longeing
him in a circle from fifteen to twenty yards in diameter :
it is of very little importance to which hand the longeing
is begun, provided the horse is rendered equally familiar
with the practice on both hands ; but as horses are usually
fed, watered, and led, on the near side, they are generally
inclined to follow and lead better by the left rein than the
right; but if it should be found that a horse is less tractable
on the off than on the near side, two lessons may be given
on the right, to one on the left rein, proportioning the les-
son to the horse's strength and capability, frequently en-
couraging and confirming him by patting and caressing
him. A young horse must not be deemed obstinate or
restive, if he should hesitate or stand still, when it is in-
tended that he should move forward ; such hesitation often
proceeds from alarm, which may be removed by encourage-

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 15

merit ; the man with the longeing rein walking round the
circle a few times with him, and by degrees, getting away
from him, while another follows with a whip, showing it to
him, but not striking him with it, wall be sufficient to urge
him on, and in about two or three lessons he will learn what
is required from him. If he should attempt to hang back,
the man following with the whip may strike the ground
with it, which will generally have the desired effect. After
he has gone a few times round at a walk, and seems to lead
pretty well, he may be urged to trot ; should he go quietly,
allow the rein to slip till he forms a large circle, and let
him go very steadily a few times round, then call him up
and encourage him, and try the same to the reverse hand ;
if he takes kindly to this lesson, the man with the whip
will be sufficient to keep him to the outside of the circle,
and up to his pace ; should he fly or plunge, the longeing
rein should be shaken very gently, without jerking it, which
will most probably bring him to trot or walk again.

The man holding the rein ought to have a very light and
even hand on the horse's mouth, otherwise he cannot form
a true circle, which the instructor ought to be very particu-
lar in observing ; for if the circle be not true, the horse
will not have a true and even action.

For the first two or three days, the horse should not be
urged too much ; if he goes quietly, without jumping or
any sign of disobedience, it is enough. In this manner, he
may be longed to the right, left, and right again, changing
often from the walk to the trot. This and every other
lesson, must be repeated till he performs correctly, urging
him to increase his pace every lesson, but a lesson should
never be continued so long as to tire or discourage him.
The reason why I use the snaffle in preference to the
cavesson is, because I am persuaded it is the more expe-
ditious way ; for we are securing two objects at once, first,
the earliest act of obedience wTe demand from the horse,
(viz.) to go forward, and, at the same time, accustoming
his mouth to acknowledge the indication of the bit.

16 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

In this and every other lesson, the greatest kindness and
gentleness must be used, and having practised them for a
few days, and the horse beginning to understand what is
wanted of him, he may be urged a little more in the trot,
taking care not to overdo it, for if you should, he will
gallop ; but a little more is to be demanded from him as
he improves. You may easily tell when he is doing his
best by the evenness of his step, but if forced too much, it
will be unequal, and an even length of step is the object
that you are trying to obtain. It cannot be too often re-
peated, that in all lessons and instructions to young horses,
the greatest care must be taken to guard against rough
and violent handling, for, by a sudden jerk of the longeing
rein, a young horse may be thrown off his feet, and thereby
not only intimidated, but seriously strained in parts the
violent and inexperienced trainer little suspects, as in the
hocks, loins, or shoulders : the mere weight of the rein
from the hand to the snaffle will have sufficient pressure on
the colt's bars to lead him round the circle. The longeing
lessons must be continued until the horse can use his limbs
with a true length of pace and free action. After each
lesson he should be brought up to the centre of the circle,
and placed straight upon all four legs, and rewarded with a
few oats, or a piece of carrot or apple.

The man who holds the cavesson rein should take it
short by folding the spare end of it up in one hand, at the
same time patting and rubbing the horse about the neck
and head with the other ; he should then try with the right
hand to bend him a little to both sides by a playful action
of the snaffle rein ; the bend should be in the very poll of
the neck. This must be done very carefully and by de-
grees, and by being repeated after each lesson to the left,
as well as to the right, will greatly facilitate the future
progress of the horse.

And here I may mention, that the instructor should try
to rein the horse back a step or two, and make a practice
of doing it after every lesson : to effect this, the man that

SADDLING. 17

holds the rein should place himself in front of, and facing
the horse, and taking the snaffle reins near the ring of the
bit, one in each hand, endeavour, by a gentle and alternate
pressure of the bit, upon the bars of the horse's mouth, to
make him step back a few paces, being particular to move
him forward after reining back : if at first he only yields
to the pressure of the bit, it should be deemed sufficient.
Never, if he deserves it, omit to encourage him before dis-
missing him.

Saddling.

So far the colt has been free from encumbrance that he
might have the free play and full use of his limbs ; but when
he has arrived at the point that he longes freely, and
steps well out with an even length of pace, the next thing
is to put a saddle on his back ; here also the greatest care
is requisite. Saddling should take place in the first in-
stance, in an open space or longeing ground, so that if the
horse should jump or plunge, he may not hurt himself.
Two men are quite sufficient for this duty, as more about
him will only cause needless alarm. The man with the
longeing rein, buckled on to the snaffle, and holding the
spare end of it folded up in his left hand, should face the
horse, and hold him by taking the snaffle reins one in each
hand close to the bit, speaking to him and taking off his
attention by gently moving the bit in his mouth ; in the
mean time, the other man places the saddle upon his back,
having the girths laid upon it, buckled to the off side, the
girths may then be carefully let down, all which should be
done without hurry, and as quietly as possible. The man
may then take the girths, one at a time, very gently, and
draw them on to the straps, merely to prevent the saddle
slipping off. Having been successful so far, pat him and
rub him about the neck and ribs, and if he shows no

18 THE CRUPPER.

symptoms of resistance, the girths may be tightened by
degrees, but bear in mind, they are never to be so tight as
not to admit the fingers easily between them and the
horse's belly.

The horse being carefully saddled, should then be moved
onward by leading him for a few minutes round the circle ;
and if he takes this quietly, longe him a little to both
hands ; when he feels the saddle, which he will do at the
trot, he perhaps may jump and plunge a little, but take
no more notice of this than by merely shaking the longe -
ing rein; do not jerk it, or punish him, for as he has
plenty of room he will not hurt himself, and when he finds
that he cannot kick it off, he will soon settle down.

The horse being thus kindly and carefully treated, will
soon bear to be saddled with less precaution, yet it is al-
ways well to be careful with a young horse. If he is
unsteady, he should be allowed to stand saddled an hour or
more each day ; and no attempt to mount him should be
thought of until he is well reconciled to the saddle.

The Crupper.

Great care must also be taken in putting on the crupper,
for any bad management in the early attempt of this is
very likely to be attended with both difficulty and danger,
which will not be readily overcome afterwards. As I
mentioned before, when doing anything with a young
horse, it is always necessary to be firm, and not to touch
him as though you were afraid of him. The crupper
should be rather too long the first time of putting it on,
taking care that none of the long hair of the tail is left
between it and the crupper : having so far succeeded, let
the tail gently down, and then fit the crupper, taking care
not to have it too short, otherwise it will nip his tail, and
make it sore, which might cause him to kick with the
crupper ever afterwards.

THE CROSS. 19

While these operations are going on, the horse's attention
is to be taken off by the man at his head, caressing, pat-
ting, and speaking kindly to him. Here again, when he is
moved in the longe, and feels the crupper, he may jump,
and plunge, but take as little notice of it as possible, and
by these means, he will become familiar with, and obedient
to, the instructor.

The Cross.

If he is quiet in taking the crupper, for he must be
familiar with one thing before you try him with another
he may next have the cross put upon him, and as young
horses are very inquisitive, as well as suspicious, let him
satisfy his curiosity by looking at it, and he will most
likely, if you hold it still, put his nose to it and smell it, if
so, pat him and encourage him, then place it on his back
quietly, and let the girth be no tighter than that of the
saddle. The snaffle rein must now be attached to the
cross, and the reins belonging to the cross put through the
ring of the snaffle, and buckled rather loose, shortening
them day by day, as the horse improves in his training,
taking care to have him bent inwards, that is, to shorten
that rein most to the hand he is working on, being parti-
cular at the same time that both reins are to have a light
pressure on the bars of his mouth ; this is intended to raise
him in front, and lighten his forehand, and prepare him to
go well up to the rider's hand when he is mounted. . The
practice of some who call themselves colt-breakers, cannot
be too strongly condemned, who buckle the poor horse's
head so tight to the cross, as to cause the sweat to run off
him through pain, when to ease himself, he will rest all the
weight of his head on the snaffle ; and in this painful posi-
tion they will keep him for an hour or more at a time ;
thus, instead of advancing his instruction, they are retarding

20 MOUNTING.

it, for they do not seem to understand, that this lesson is
intended to supple the horse, and not to cripple him.

The lesson with the cross should be repeated until the
horse lifts himself freely in front, and steps well up to
the bit, the reins, as I have said, having a light feeling on
his mouth, the horse bent to the hand on which he is
going; and to obtain this, it will be quite sufficient to
shorten the inward rein from two to about three inches,
being particular to keep him up to that free action which
I mentioned before.

Mounting.

When the horse has been sufficiently prepared by the
foregoing lessons, the next attempt must be to mount him.
I would recommend, when circumstances will permit, to sad-
dle him an hour or more before he is to be mounted, that he
may feel the saddle on his back, and be the more reconciled
to it. Two men will be required to assist him who has
to mount, one to hold the longeing rein, (the spare end
being folded up in his left hand,) and the cheek -piece of
the snaffle firmly held with the right, facing the horse, and
keeping his head up. The other on the off side must with
the right hand firmly hold the cheek-piece of the snaffle,
and at the same time the stirrup leather with the left
near the saddle tree, pressing his arm well down upon
the saddle, in order that when the man raises himself in
the stirrup, he may keep the saddle with an equal pressure
on the colt's back, to prevent him from being disturbed
while the man is mounting ; and on his being quietly seated
in the saddle, he must let his hand slide down to the stir-
rup, for the mounted man to place his foot in it.

The earliest thing to teach the young horse in mounting
is, to stand still, which at first he will be very unlikely to

MOUNTING. 21

do, as the moment the rider raises himself in the stirrup
he brings the saddle down with considerable pressure upon
the colt's back, which is nearly certain to make him shift
about, and should this opposition be determined, it will be
necessary to withdraw the foot, as the longer it remains in
the stirrup, the more uneasy he will become. The rider
cannot be too careful nor too patient in mounting the
young horse.

Before attempting to mount completely, he will do well
to place his left foot in the stirrup and raise himself a little,
by springing from the right foot, which will accustom the
colt to bear the additional pressure of the saddle ; and by
encouragement and kindness, he will soon allow himself to
be mounted quietly.

The reason so much precaution is necessary in mount-
ing is, that if the rider should be thrown in his attempt,
it not only frightens the horse, but may induce him to
resort to the same opposition again. To stand still until he
is mounted, is one of the most useful lessons that he can
receive, and must therefore be thoroughly taught him.

The man that is to mount should place himself opposite
the horse's shoulder with his face towards it, taking up the
reins with the right hand and placing the left hand below
it, with the little finger of the left hand between the reins,
drawing them through the left with the right hand, till he
feels the horse's mouth very lightly, when the right hand
should drop the spare end of the reins : he is next to take
a lock of the horse's mane with the right hand, and twist
it round the thumb of the left, the hand being closed firmly
on the mane and reins, he then takes the top of the stirrup
between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and
places his left foot in it, then the right hand quits the stir-
rup and is removed to the cantle or hind part of the
saddle ; with a spring from the right foot, the rider raises
himself in the stirrup, until he is upright, when a pause of
a second should be made, taking care not to touch the side
of the horse with his toe, which will be prevented by placing

22 THE SEAT.

his left knee against the saddle-flap. If the horse should
be alarmed or unsteady, he must immediately come to the
ground with the right foot, and endeavour to appease him
by patting him on the ribs and quarters, and then try him
again. If he is now steady, the right hand is to be shifted
from the cantle to the pommel, or forepart of the saddle,
the right leg passed clear over the horse's quarters, and the
right knee closed on the saddle, the body lowered gently
into the seat, and the stirrup taken with the right foot, and
a snaffle rein between the third and little fingers of each
hand, the spare end of the reins lying upon the second
joint of the forefingers, with the thumbs firmly on them,
and the hand closed.

The soldier mounts in seven motions, four in preparing
to mount, and three in mounting ; but these instructions
being intended for general use, I do not mention them
more particularly.

The Seat.

To be properly seated, the rider should feel himself well
down, properly balanced, and perfectly upright in the
middle of his saddle, but without stiffness : his body and
head easy and square to the front, neither leaning forward
nor backward, the shoulders well thrown back, the chest
raised, and the small part of the back bent in ; by these
means, he will force himself well down into the middle of
his saddle, and as it were, ride entirely by equilibrium.
The arm from the shoulder to the elbow must hang easy,
with the thick part of it just below the elbow, lightly
touching the hip bone ; the lower part of the arm should
then be raised until the little finger of each hand is as high
and in a line with the elbow joint, the wrist slightly curved
with the knuckles to the front, the thumbs pointing directly

THE SEAT. 23

towards each other, the little fingers exactly under the
thumbs, with a rein in each hand, as I have before men-
tioned in the previous lesson. The inside of the thighs
from the knee upwards, well turned round and close to the
saddle, the knee in the centre of the flap and bent, the legs
must hang easy by the horse's sides, without constraint,
with the foot exactly under the knee, and the stirrup of
such a length that the bar which supports the foot should
touch the rider's ankle when he is seated, with his legs
properly placed ; thus the calves of his legs are to act with,
and aid the hands; they are also ready to assist and
strengthen the seat, if necessary. The ball of the foot
should be placed on the stirrup with just sufficient pres-
sure to retain it under the foot, for he is a bad rider who
depends on the stirrup, the heels well pressed down, which
to be in the correct position, should be two inches lower
than the toes ; and the toes turned to the front.

The rider being mounted and properly seated, I must
caution him that he is to sit steadily, with his reins divided
ready to move on, and prepared to keep his seat if the horse
should plunge ; but should he show any reluctance to move,
the rider is not to resort to harsh treatment, by using the
whip or spur, but sit quietly on his back, and let the men
that have been assisting him to mount, lead him forward,
patting him for every act of obedience. If he shows any
temper which he is very unlikely to do, if he has been kindly
and properly treated in his former lessons, the two men
will be sufficient to hold him by keeping up his head, or
halting him, and letting him stand still a few minutes, that
he may feel what he has on his back, then moving him on
a few steps more, patting him frequently : with this treat-
ment, he will soon settle to his work ; but on no account
whip or spur him, for more horses are rendered restive by
the violence and impatience of their instructors, than by any
other cause. They seem not to reflect, that they ought not
to punish the horse for not doing what he has not been
taught to do.

24 DISMOUNTING.

If he is found to go quietly, after the men have led him
a few times round the circle, let the man on the off side
go gently away, and follow him at a little distance with a
whip, merely showing it to him, thus leaving him to the
man with the longeing rein and his rider ; after he has led
him round the circle a few times, let him also steal away
from him by lengthening the rein a yard or more, as he
may think prudent, keeping his eye upon him, for fear he
should plunge, yet leaving him as much as possible to his
rider's own management, who should encourage him to
walk well out, by pressing him with the calves of his legs,
at the same time engaging his attention by moving the bit
lightly in his mouth, and giving him all the encouragement
in his power. Should he jump, or plunge, the man with
the longeing rein must remain close to him, to keep his
head up. If he goes quietly for half an hour or so, he
should be led into the centre of the circle, caressed, and
dismissed. Half an hour will be quite sufficient for the
first lesson, which may be increased daily, as his strength
increases, and thus he will be prepared for his future
lessons.

Dismounting.

To dismount, the rider is to place both snaffle reins in his
left hand, with the little finger between them, (as in the
instruction for mounting) the right hand taking hold of the
reins above the left hand, secures them between the forefinger
and thumb of the right hand : the left hand slides down the
reins about a foot in front of the saddle, the right hand drops
the spare end of them, the left hand having a light feel-
ing on the horse's mouth ; the right hand then takes a lock of
the mane and twists it round the thumb of the left hand,
which is to be closed firmly on the mane and reins; the
right hand is next to be placed on the pommel of the saddle,
and the right foot withdrawn from the stirrup. The rider

DISMOUNTING. 25

is then to support his body on his right hand and left foot,
bending the right knee and carrying the leg clear over the
horse's quarters to the near side ; the right hand is removed
from the pommel to the cantle of the saddle (when a mo-
mentary pause should be made) ; the body is then lowered
till the right foot comes to the ground, when the left foot
quits the stirrup, and the man faces to his left, taking the
snaffle rein with the right hand; the man who has been
leading the horse stands on the off side having the longeing
rein folded up in his right hand, with which he also takes
firmly hold of the snaffle cheek -piece, and with the left hand
holds the stirrup leather.

The soldier dismounts in seven motions, three in pre-
paring to dismount and four in dismounting.

There is another, and in my opinion, a safer way to
mount and dismount, in backing young horses, and it is the
one I always adopt with the snaffle.

In preparing to mount, I place the near side, that is, the
left rein, below the little finger of the left hand, and bring it
through the hand, passing it between the forefinger and the
thumb : I then place the right rein also between the fore-
finger and the thumb, letting it pass through the hand and
below the little finger, and then securely close my hand upon
them, when I find I have the reins firm in my grasp, and
retained by the pressure of the thumb upon the forefinger.
Thus prepared, I mount according to the before-mentioned
rules. I am thus ready at a moment's notice to divide the
reins, and take one in the right hand. In dismounting, the
right rein is returned to the left hand ; and the other move-
ments made as before laid down. The advantage of this
method is, that in case the horse plunges while being
mounted, I have him securely in one hand, and having the
breadth of it between the reins, am able to divide them with-
out confusion, and by turning the forefinger upwards to the
right to guide him in that direction, and by depressing the
little finger and turning it outwards to the left, to keep him
to that hand.

26 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

Lesson I*

We will now suppose that the colt begins to understand,
from his previous lessons, what is wanted from him, in re-
gard to being mounted and dismounted ; that he leads pretty
well round the circle ; that the rider can manage him with-
out much assistance from the longeing rein; and that the
man holding it, can trust him with sufficient length of rein
to form a large circle, the one with the whip still following
him round, but leaving him as much as possible to the rider,
who should be very attentive in the application of his hands
and legs. If the colt is strong, he should urge him to trot a
few times round the circle, to the hand the man with the
rein is leading him, then pull him up quietly to the walk :
and after he has walked for a short time, halt him and
change the rein, and work him in like manner to the other
hand ; day by day increasing his lesson, according to his
strength and capability, encouraging him for every act of
compliance. Thus, in a short time, he will allow his rider
to mount, and move him on without assistance. All that
must be expected from him at first is, that he should walk
well, and that to his front, to which the rider must pay great
attention, by an equal feeling of the reins, and the pressure
of his legs.

Having gone through his lesson quietly, he should be
halted square to the front. The rider should then dismount,
rein him back a few steps, and dismiss him.

Should the instructor at any time feel annoyed and irri-
tated at the little progress his pupil makes, let him reflect
that he has a young and irrational animal to deal with, and
remember how much patience he himself required, and how
many blunders he made, in acquiring the simplest rudiments
of learning. If he applies this reflection, as a man of good
feeling ought, he will make allowances for the colt's dullness,
and the trouble he gives him, and will endeavour to gain

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 27

his end by kindness and perseverance, rather than by vio-
lence and cruelty.

The colt has hitherto been ridden with the assistance of a
man leading him by the longeing rein : we will presume that
he now goes quietly ; that his rider has for sometime had him
for the most part, under his sole management, and that he
begins to walk pretty well; therefore, in his future lessons, the
longeing rein may be dispensed with.

Lesson II.

It may be expected that the colt will now know something
of what is demanded of him ; that he will walk to his front
when required ; that he will stand still to be mounted, in
which the rider should be very particular, never attempting
to do so till he is perfectly steady.

Being mounted, the rider must not be rough or impatient ;
rough treatment will only make him timid, and cause him to
resist for his own preservation ; while, on the contrary, quiet-
ness, accompanied by firmness, will convince him that he has
nothing to fear, and he will soon come to terms, and answer
every reasonable demand. If the colt should show signs of
uneasiness, the rider should dismount quietly, carefully ex-
amine the saddle to see that it does not hurt him, that the
snaffle is properly fitted, and to discover whether his awk-
wardness is natural, or proceeds from some other cause ; this
done, let him mount again, and having seated himself, take
a rein in each hand, press the calves of both legs to him,
and move him forward. His pace at first will be more of a
roll than a walk ; but patience and perseverance, will soon
improve this. The rider's hands must be light and playful,
moving the bit very lightly in the colt's mouth, between
which and the rider's hand there must be a constant com-
munication, which he will obtain, by feeling each rein
alternately, and then an equal feeling of both, which will

28 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

cause him to play with and champ the bit, and encourage
him to raise his head, and by degrees, lighten himself in
front. The colt must be kept attentive, and up to the bridle,
by a gentle pressure of the calves of both legs, so as to teach
him to lift his foot up, and place it to his front, but no rough
aids are to be applied, such as the whip or spur : for the
rider must still bear in mind, that he has a young and un-
tutored thing to instruct, and consequently, he ought to be
very cautious and kind in his treatment; for it is as absurd to
expect that the young horse can understand or answer the
indication of the hand or leg, before he has been taught to
do so, as it woidd be for a schoolmaster to expect a child
to read and spell, before he had learned his alphabet ; and it
is no less barbarous, to punish the former for his ignorance,
than the latter. Therefore, as the child's first lessons ought
to be simple and easy, so ought the colt's, who is but a child
of another species ; and all that ought to be demanded from
him at first is, to walk straight to his front, and not place one
foot to the right, and the other to the left, which he is sure
to do, if not restrained by the rider's hand, and at the same
time, urged on by the pressure of his legs. I consider the
walk of great importance, as it is the foundation of all the
other paces ; for if a horse does not walk well, he will very
rarely be perfect in any pace.

The rider must take care that the colt is not kept at
work so long at any one time as to tire him. He must also
pay great attention to his hand, for much of the success in
training depends on this ; the reins must never hang loose ;
neither must they be pulled, as if the rider had some great
weight to sustain ; but let him imagine that he has a piece
of thread in his hand, or a hair of the horse's mane, and
that he does not wish to break the one, nor pull out the
other. To enable the reader to understand, the sort of
feeling he ought to have on the horse's mouth, let him
fasten a piece of thread to something, that will yield to the
hand, for instance, the top rail of a light chair ; and if by
an even and steady feeling of the thread, he can raise the

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 29

front legs of the chair from the floor, by closing and relax-
ing the ringers, he will keep the chair in motion and sup-
port in that position, and it will give him some idea of the
feeling he ought to have on the horse's mouth : if, on the
contrary, he jerks the thread, instead of holding it with an
even and steady feeling, he will hurt his finger ; and this
is precisely the effect it has on the horse's mouth, and is
what makes horses that have been so treated, afraid to go
up to the hand and face the bridle.

The pressure of the legs against the horse's sides to keep
him upi to the hand at the feeling I have just described,
must be regulated by his temper ; for the rider may rest
assured, that if his hands and legs, or, as they are commonly
called, aids, are rough and unkind, he will fail in attaining
his object, for the colt will oppose force by force, and being
the stronger of the two, will give him a great deal of
trouble, besides exposing him to the risk incidental to a
contest of this nature. Horses run away from this cause
more than from any other, and all know what numerous,
and often fatal, accidents are occasioned thereby.

But should my reader, in spite of all precautions, ever
have the misfortune to ride a runaway horse, and he finds
him gaining the advantage, and going away with him, he
ought to draw the snaffle once or twice sharply through his
mouth, and then drop the hand to him ; I mean, give him
his head suddenly for a moment, this will puzzle him ex-
ceedingly, and not knowing what to make of it, he will very
likely stop ; then feel his mouth again, and thus, by an al-
ternate feeling, and easing the hand, you will recall him to
obedience. A rough hand will never make him a useful
or a pleasant horse to ride ; but light hands, make light
mouths : and if all horses were kindly and properly treated,
there would be few that would run away.

30 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

Lesson III.

Supposing the horse can walk well to his front with his head
up, and is beginning to yield to the rider's hand, by playing
with and champing the bit ; the next demand should be to
bend him to the right and left. This at first should be done
by halting him, and placing him properly on all four feet,
making him stand well up to the bit. In bending the horse,
great gentleness should be used, he should never be pulled
round by force, nor kept bent too long at one time, but the
rider should, with a light and playful hand, engage his at-
tention towards him, and when he yields to the right rein,
pat him and unbend him: then try the same to the left.
When he has yielded a few times to each hand, place him
square, letting him see you are pleased with him ; then
walk him well out again, and by thus halting and bending,
placing him square, and moving him on, during his early
lessons, the instructor will be greatly assisted in preparing
him for the lesson of " Shoulder-in."

When he answers these demands freely, he must be taught to
turn to the right and left ; and, in order not to confuse the
reader, I will confine myself to explaining the aids for work-
ing to the right only — wishing him to bear in mind that the
reverse aids are required in working to the left. I will ex-
plain the aids that are required in turning to the right.
The rider must try to keep the horse up to that free action
in the turn, that he had when walking straight to his front ;
to obtain which, a light feeling of both hands is required to
raise his forehand, and both legs must be applied to keep
his haunches under him, but the inward or right rein, and
the outward or left leg, the stronger. If we wish the horse
to turn to the right, the right rein must be felt the stronger,
to direct him where to go, with a lighter feeling of the left,
to balance and assist the right, so that the snaffle may have
almost an equal pressure on both sides of the horse's mouth :

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 31

by feeling one rein only, the rider would draw the snaffle
through the horse's mouth, and would thus pull the left
cheek-piece or ring of the snaffle against the horse's left
cheek-bone, having little or no bearing on his bars or gums,
so that if he turned at all, it would, in all probability, be
in a direction contrary to the one intended.

The rider, as before admonished, must be very attentive
to the lightness and kindness of his hands. In working the
hands, the little finger is to be turned in and upwards to-
wards the face ; and as soon as the horse has answered the
aid, the hand is to resume its proper position ; and as the
assistance of both hands is necessary, so will that of both
legs ; for when the right rein is felt the stronger, the left
leg must be applied in proportion, to make the horse follow
the leading rein ; the right leg being kept close to assist the
left, and oblige the horse to step up to the bit.

As I shall have to use the terms " inward " and " out-
ward," I will explain how they are applied : the hand we
work to, whether right or left, is called the inward hand,
so that if we turn to the right, we apply the right or in-
ward rein, and the left or outward leg, the stronger, re-
versing the aids if to the left. Thus the hand we work to, is
called the inward, or leading hand, and when riding with a
snaffle in a school, should be about three inches below the
outward, which is to be kept in a line with the elbow
joint.

Now, in turning to the right, the right or inward rein is
felt with a double power, in comparison with the left or
outward rein, in order to retain a steady feeling. The horse
is kept up to the hands by a pressure of both legs, but the
left or outward leg, the stronger ; and when turned, there
must be an equal feeling of both hands with the pressure of
the legs to direct him to advance straight to his front.

The rider must judge from his experience of the horse,
with what power he must apply his aids, some horses ac-
knowledge the slightest indication, others require the aids
more strongly applied.

32 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

This lesson, as well as every other, should be repeated
until the horse understands, and will answer, the rider's
hand and leg, without the assistance of the whip or spur.

In turning, the hands must not be carried to the right
nor to the left ; they are not to quit the position previously
laid down. In all turns, the action is to be made from the
wrist, the little fingers turning in and up, towards the face,
resuming their place when the horse has answered the aid.

Lesson IT.

When the horse has become somewhat perfect in answer-
ing the aids of the hand and leg, the rider should press
him to the trot.

In applying the aids for the trot, he must raise the horse's
forehand, by a light feeling of both reins, turning the little
fingers in and up, towards his face, not with a jerking, un-
steady action, but with that light feeling which I have before
described ; both legs must be smoothly applied to press him
up to the hand, and bring his haunches under him, so that
when he lifts his foot from the ground, he may have greater
power, and more freedom, to put it out to the front. The
forehand being relieved by bringing the weight more on to
the haunches, enables him to spring and step better up to
the light hand, which the rider must be very careful to ac-
quire, and this is only obtained by care and great attention
on his own part. The meaning of a light hand, is, that
it exercises an alternate feeling and easing of the horse's
mouth, by proper attention to which its sensibility is pre-
served, and the rider's hand formed.

The first lessons in the trot, should be short, and fre-
quently varied with those already gone through. The rider
must be very particular in changing the horse's lessons, or
he will soon anticipate what is to follow, which must never
be allowed. He is never to turn, advance, stop, or rein
back, without receiving the proper aids from his rider ; nor

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 33

must he be kept too long at one thing, or he will become
disgusted with his work. The judicious rider will gain almost
imperceptibly a little more every day, by changing the les-
son from the walk to the trot, and from the trot to the
walk again, seeking compliance by gentle aids alone,
which are to keep him well up to the hand by the pressure
of both legs, and retaining him sufficiently, but lightly,
with the hands. The whip and spur, as I said before,
must be used as a last resource, when other and kinder
means have failed. Attention must be paid to work all
lessons till the horse goes as well to one hand as to the
other. The trot being a most important and useful lesson,
care must be taken to obtain a free and extended action.

The pace should be moderate at first, and always exactly
cadenced. ' Cadence,' means an even and distinctly marked
time, which the horse must be made to observe in all his
paces, if we wish him to be pleasant to ride. Much de-
pends on how he is, or has been, ridden; for if the rider has
an uneven bearing on his mouth, that is, feels one rein
more strongly than the other, it is not likely the horse
can maintain anything like a steady and uniform action.
It may now and then happen, that a well -trained horse will
do this, in spite of all that a bad rider, with uneven hands
and unsteady legs, may do to disturb him ; but such cases
are rare, as most horses are sure to abandon themselves, as
it is called, unless properly retained by the hand, and, at
the same time, urged on by the pressure of the legs.

To give a just idea of a cadenced action, we will suppose
we have a well-trained horse, and on his back a good rider ;
we shall then be able to mark a distinct and even interval, as
the horse's feet come to the ground ; and no one can appre-
ciate the luxury of a good trot who cannot obtain this even-
ness and uniformity of step.

As the horse improves, he should be made to extend his

pace, or as rough riders term it, to trot out. The aids for

this are, lightly to raise the horse's head and neck, thus

relieving his forehand, and at the same time, urging him

b 5

34 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

by the pressure of the legs, to bring his weight more on
his haunches, so that he can lift his foot up by bending
the knee, and extend it well to the front.

Some riders make a great mistake in giving the horse a
longer rein to increase his pace, imagining they will suc-
ceed by so doing ; thus, as it were, letting the horse's head
down upon his fore legs, and impeding his speed instead of
increasing it : but if you wish a horse to step well out,
you must first raise his forehand, and then he has every
chance to spring from his haunches, and is enabled to stop,
turn, or advance, with greater precision and ease to himself.

The halt is a material part of the lesson, and may be re-
peated with great advantage. If performed with judgment,
it assists the rider in bringing the horse's haunches under
him, and raising him in front. When about to halt, the
rider should first somewhat animate the horse, and then
his mouth must be felt, and the legs firmly, but steadily,
applied to stay him, upon which the hand must be eased.
Also, in changing from the trot to the walk, from the
canter to the trot or walk, the horse should be well
pressed up to the hand, keeping in mind, that all changes
of pace, should be made with his haunches well under
him, the rider's hand to be firm but very light, that the
horse may be going freely and well up to the bit at the
time the change is made.

Lesson V.

As I have previously directed, that the horse should be
reined back in his former lessons before dismissing him,
the rider may now try and rein him back while mounted.
In this lesson, at the commencement, he must not raise the
horse's head too high, more particularly, if the ground is
soft ; for, by raising him too much in front at first, espe-
cially if he is not well collected, and his haunches well

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 35

under him, it throws too much weight on the haunches,
and this is very likely to make him refuse to rein back,
for if he should be weak in the loins, or hocks, it will be a
matter of great difficulty for him to do so. With these
points, the rider should make himself acquainted, and not
require too much at one time ; for if he obtains but one
step to the rear to-day, he may look for more to-morrow ;
always taking care to make much of the horse for every
act of compliance, as he must bear in mind, that it is
easier for him to advance ten paces, than to rein back one.
In going forward, the reins guide the horse, and the
legs urge him on; but in reining back, the legs guide him
and the bit forces him back. To effect this, the feeling of
both hands must be light and equal, which will raise the
horse's forehand, the legs being applied to his sides, will
press his haunches under him, and oblige him to step up
to the bridle, but being retained by the hands, he will not
be able to place his foot forward, so that he must either
hold it in the air, or place it backwards ; and after every
step to the rear, the hand should be eased. In this lesson,
much attention must be paid to the lightness and evenness
of the hands and legs ; for the object of it is to lighten the
horse's forehand, bringing the weight more upon the
haunches, to enable him to work the bending lessons with
greater ease to himself, and also to prepare him for the
canter.

Lesson VI,

The horse by this time ought to understand and answer
the aids for walking, bending, reining back, and turning to
both hands ; therefore he must now commence the bending
lesson, or shoulder-in. Now, as few of my readers may
have a riding-house to work in, they will have to find a
substitute for one ; any enclosed square space will answer

36 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

the purpose ; and if that cannot be readily obtained, a grass
field must do, the hedges representing the walls of the
manege.

The horse should be placed by the side of one of the
walls or hedges, at one yard interval from it. The rider,
without moving the horse's hind feet, must turn his fore-
hand nearly half to the right ; thus, his fore feet will be on
one line, and his hind feet on another. The rider must sit
square to the front as his horse stands, with his left or out-
ward hand as high as the elbow ; the right or inward one
three inches lower ; the horse's forehand should be well
raised, and he must stand well up to the bit, (for the higher
he is raised in front in this lesson, the easier he can perform
it,) his head yielding to the right rein, and his body slightly
curved. The rider, however, must not expect to get this
from him all at once ; for if, for the first lesson or two, he
yields to the inward or right rein, letting his feet work on
one line, it will be sufficient ; then unbend him, encourage
him, and let him walk out again to ease his neck, after a
short interval try him again, getting a little more from him
every time, until the rider can keep him in the position I
have described above. Beyond all things, I wish him to under-
stand, that he is not to pull the horse's head round by force,
for a man with nothing but a halter can do that ; but this is
not the thing required : the horse is to yield his mouth to
the slightest indication from the rider's hand; and to be in a
proper position to work the shoulder-in, he should be stand-
ing well up to the bit, as I have before mentioned, and
slightly curved, from the poll of his neck to the last joint
of his back ; and as this position is very fatiguing, he should
not be kept in it too long at one time. The object of the
shoulder -in and passage, is to supple the horse in the neck
and ribs, to give free action to his shoulders, and teach him
to obey the pressure of the leg.

The rider must understand and remember the difference,
between the inward and outward hand and leg, or he will
never work these lessons correctly.

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 37

Right Shoulder-in.

As I have described how the horse ought to be placed,
in order to commence the right shoulder-in, I will now ex-
plain the aids to work it.

In the first place, the rider should be very careful that
his hands and legs act together, or he will confuse and
disturb the horse : they are to balance and assist each
other.

In this lesson the left or outward rein raises the horse's
forehand, and leads him away to the left, the right rein
bends him, and causes him to yield his mouth to the right
or inward hand, the pressure of the right leg obliges him to
cross his legs, by passing his off feet in front of his near ;
the left leg being closed, keeps him up to the hands, and
prevents him taking too long a side step to the left ; it also
obliges him to step up to the hand and face his bridle ; the
shoulders should be kept well leading : thus the horse being
raised in front with his haunches under him, and balanced
between the rider's hands and legs, is bent to the right, but
stepping sideways to the left, his fore and hind feet moving
on two parallel lines, the hind feet one yard from the wall,
or outside of the manege ; for should the horse get his hind
feet too close to the wall, he would not have room to pass
one foot in front of the other without striking his hocks,
which might cause the injury termed capped hocks ; but the
rider's outward or left leg should prevent this, by being
closed strong enough to keep him up to the hand. This
lesson should be worked very slowly.

For the left shoulder-in, the aids must be reversed : that
is, the right rein raises the horse's forehand and leads him
away to the right, and the left rein bends him ; the left leg
makes him cross his legs, and the right keeps him up to
the hand.

38 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

To Turn when working Shoulder-in.

All turns when working the shoulder-in, either right or
left, are made on the horse's fore feet. I must here remind
my reader, that he is to imagine he is working his horse in
a square, at each corner of which he has to make a turn.
In working to the right, when the horse's fore feet come
within two yards of the corner, the rider must stay them by
feeling the right or inward rein, a little stronger, and by a
stronger pressure of the right or inward leg, he wall oblige
the horse to pass his hind feet round to the left, his fore feet
acting as a pivot during the turn. When the turn is com-
pleted, he must lead him away with the left or outward rein.

To Halt.

To halt when working the right shoulder-in, feel both
reins, and close the left or outward leg ; if the left, feel both
reins, and close the right or outward leg.

The Half-Passa

ge.

When the horse has made some progress in the lessons
of right and left shoulder-in, he should be taught the half-
passage. To begin which, he is prepared, when working
the right shoulder-in. All the rider will have to do. is to
press him gently forward with both legs, and when he enters
the new line, the calf of the left leg must be applied to
bring his quarters gradually into the proper oblique direc-
tion, the shoulders to be kept well leading. The horse
moves, and looks towards his right ; the right rein preserves
the bend and leads him ; the left raises his head, and assists
and balances the power of the right ; the left leg obliges the

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 39

horse to place his near foot in front of the off, and the right
leg presses him np to the hand, and prevents his quarters
from coming too much to the right, and keeps him in the
proper direction ; his fore and hind feet moving on two
diagonal lines from one side of the manege to the other.

In the half-passage, the horse only half-crosses his legs,
placing one foot in front of the other, and gaining as much
ground to his front as he does to his right, his fore and hind
feet arriving at the opposite wall or side of the manege
together, when he should be pressed forward for a few
paces, and placed for the left shoulder-in.

The Passage.

When the horse has been practised a few times at the
shoulder-in and half-passage, and the rider finds that he
answers the aids pretty well, he must teach him the full
passage. When working the right shoulder -in, the horse
is prepared for the right pass. To effect this, the rider
must feel both reins ; this will stay him for a moment,
making as it were a half-halt, giving him time to balance
himself, in order that he may change his feet ; for in work-
ing the right shoulder-in the horse passes his off feet in
front of his near, so that by easing the pressure of the right
leg and closing the left the stronger, the rider will cause
the horse to change his feet, and pass the near in front of
the off feet, the right rein both bending and leading.

The rider will observe in the passage, that the inward
or right rein both bends and leads ; the outward or left
rein balances and assists the inward ; the outward or left
leg obliges the horse to pass his near foot in front of the
off, and the inward or right leg keeps him up to the hands,
and prevents him from taking too long a side step to the
right. Thus, in the right shoulder-in, the horse is bent to
the right and steps to the left ; but in the passage, he both
bends and steps to the right, following the inward or right

40 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

rein, passing square across the manege from one wall to the
other; and when arrived at the opposite wall, the rider
must square him, encourage him for what he has 'done, and
commence the left shoulder -in, or he may be turned to the
right, and continue the right pass.

To Turn in the Passage.

As in working the shoulder -in the turns are made on
the fore feet, so in working the passage, they are made on
the hind feet ; to do which, if the rider wishes to turn to
the right, he must stay the horse's hind feet by closing the
right leg, the right rein leading his forehand round, the
left rein supporting and assisting the right, the left leg
being closed, prevents his quarters from swerving to the
left during the turn. When the turn is made, he can re-
sume the aids for the right passage, by easing the pressure
of the right or inward leg, and lead off with the right or
inward rein.

To Halt in the Passage.

To halt the horse in the right pass, feel both reins, and
close the right or inward leg.

To Turn from Right Pass to Right
Shoulder-in.

To turn the horse from right pass to right shoulder -in,
feel the right rein, and close the right leg strongly ; at the
same time supporting him with the left leg and rein. The
horse should be made to turn on his own centre, his fore
and hind feet describing a circle. When turned, lead him
off with the left rein.

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 41

The rider must understand that I have represented the
horse to be working all this time to the right, and have
only explained the aids to the right, therefore, in working
to the left, all the aids must be reversed.

Much nicety of hand is required in these lessons, for
unless the rider's hands and legs act together, the horse
does not know which to obey ; but is puzzled and confused,
and makes no progress in his training.

Lesson VII

If the horse is intended for military purposes, for the
Yeomanry Cavalry, or the mounted Police, he must be taught
to carry the sword. In order to train him to this, the rider
should at first wear the scabbard only. When he becomes
accustomed to that, he may place the sword in it, and oc-
casionally halting, let him take both reins in his right
hand, holding them at such a length as to have but a very
light feeling on the horse's mouth, then with his left,
gently shake the sword in the scabbard, soothing and
confirming him at the same time with the voice and hand.
Repeat this again and again, rattling the sword a little
louder every time ; thus, by alternately rattling it and en-
couraging him, he will soon allow it to be fully drawn,
gently at first, of course ; the rider taking great care not to
strike or needlessly alarm him with it. This will prepare
him for any thing that he may be required for with the
sword, such as the sword exercise, &c. When the rider is
about to do any thing he thinks may frighten the young
horse, he should never have him tight in hand, for that
leads him to suspect he is going to be hurt ; he must give
him as much rein as he can with safety ; and if he has
treated him with kindness in his former lessons, the horse
will have so much confidence, that he will not be wantonly
exposed to injury, as will disarm him in a great measure
of his natural timidity.

42 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

When the horse has become accustomed to the sword,
he must be taught to stand to be fired from ; and for this
purpose we commence With a pistol, which, if it has the
percussion lock, we at first put only a cap upon ; and when
he will allow that to be exploded without alarm, shake a
little powder into the barrel without ramming it down ;
and when he has become used to this, load the pistol in the
ordinary way (with blank cartridge of course) till he will
stand with confidence to be fired from.

If the pistol you use has the old-fashioned lock, put a
little powder into the pan and some into the barrel (with-
out ramming it down), and fire it off instead of exploding
the cap.

Lesson VIII,

The horse having been well-instructed in the foregoing
lessons, and carefully ridden well up to the hand in the
trot, must next be advanced to the canter, and if he has
been attentively instructed in the trot, this will be an easy
lesson ; the rider taking the precaution not to require too
much at the commencement, but increase every day ac-
cording to the horse's strength.

The canter is a delicate and somewhat artificial pace,
being nothing more nor less than a shortened gallop ; and
when well performed, is very showy, easy, and elegant ;
but as the reverse is often the case, owing to the imperfect
training of the horse, or the unskilfulness of the rider, it
is very unsightly, and offensive to the eye of the practised
horseman.

At first, the canter is mostly very long and loose, more
particularly if the horse has not been well ridden up to the
hand in his former lessons ; but by practice and attention
from the rider, it will, by degrees, become shorter and
more collected. The canter being a more violent exer-
tion than the trot, the lessons should be regulated accord-

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 43

ingly, the rider taking care not to collect the horse too
soon, bnt to let it be done by degrees.

Let it, for a short time, be the extended pace, or what is
called, a hand gallop, allowing the horse liberty to exert
himself, that he may learn to cover his gronnd ; after some
time, try to collect him a little more, and although raising
him in front a trifle every lesson, the rider must endeavour
to keep him up to a free and unconstrained action, rising
higher in front and springing more from his haunches so
that when properly trained and with a good rider on his
back, he might be made to canter, and to all appearance, at
the extended canter, by the side of another horse walking
well out. Many young horses, however, are collected too sud-
denly in the canter, and by these means, are crippled instead
of being suppled, so that they never canter well afterwards.

In applying the aids for the canter, the rider must be
particular that they are smooth, and well timed ; the horse
being urged to the trot, he should feel both reins lightly ;
this will raise him and lighten his forehand; a pres-
sure of both legs will bring his haunches under him, and
a double feeling of the right rein, with an extra pressure
of the left leg, will cause him to strike off with the right
fore leg, followed by the right hind one, which his called,
true and united.

To lead with the left fore leg, the aids must be reversed ;
that is, the double feeling must be on the left rein, and the
pressure from the right leg, and attention must be paid to
time the application of the aids when the horse is raising
his fore foot.

I have explained the meaning of ■ true ' and ' united/ as
applied to the canter ; it may be necessary to say some-
thing of the opposite terms, ' false ' and ' disunited/ A horse
is said to canter false, if, when going to the right, he leads
with his near fore foot, which if followed by the off hind one,
is both false and disunited. If, in cantering to the left, he
should lead with his off fore foot, that would be false ; and
if followed by the near hind one, both false and disunited.

44 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

A good rider will detect this immediately, without any
assistance from his eye, by an uneasy rocking motion, and
as often as it occurs, will pull the horse quietly up to the
trot, and again apply the aids smoothly, taking care not to
lose his temper, nor punish the horse till he has exhausted
all other means to obtain his end, and even then, the punish-
ment must be administered with judgment and discretion.

Too much attention cannot be given to the lightness and
delicacy of the hands, and these indispensables to a good
horseman, come only by time and practice. When once
acquired, they are the sure means of safety and good riding,
for it is from the control exercised by the hand, that a rider
is enabled to subdue the most violent horse ; while the
firmest seat will avail nothing, if not seconded by a light
and skilful hand.

Lesson IX,

Having proceeded with the colt so far through the
routine of his training, should he have gone on successfully,
his next instruction must be in leaping ; and here again we
must advance by degrees, and begin by placing the bar on
the ground, which, when he steps clearly over, we may
raise a few inches, increasing the height gradually ; and by
encouragement, before and after each leap, he will soon
learn to follow the man leading him over it. For a standing
leap, from two to three feet in height ought to be considered
sufficient.

The horse should be made to approach the leap at an
animated pace, but on no account, be suffered to hurry.
A horse that is impatient in going up to the bar, must be
halted a few steps short of it, and reined back, as often as he
shows unsteadiness, or be led over the bar on the ground
again ; but on no account must he be allowed to hurry ; for
if he is, he will become an uncertain, and consequently, a
dangerous leaper.

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 45

Having become familiar with the standing leap, by
following the man over it, he should now be mounted and
ridden up to the bar at a trot, or canter, taking care to place
it so that it may fall at the least touch, and at a very moderate
height, as well to avoid hurting the man by the horse falling
over it, as intimidating himself; the consequence of which
would be, his refusing his leap on some more important
occasion.

The rider, when at the leap, should raise the horse's fore-
hand by a light feeling of both reins, and with a strong
pressure of the legs, urge him forward : immediately the
horse rises, he must ease the hand, to give him room to
spring forward, and when over, collect him, by a steady
feeling of both reins, supporting him well with the legs.
The rider should preserve an easy carriage of body; his
own judgment will soon inform him, what the inclination
forward should be when the horse rises, and what back-
ward, when he alights.

The leap must not be repeated too often ; two or three
times in one lesson will be enough, otherwise it will weary
and disgust the horse, and get him into the habit of
refusing.

Lesson X.

The snaffle, which has hitherto been used, must now
be replaced by the bit, or curb bridle. This must be care-
fully fitted, according to my previous instructions, and when
properly adjusted, the rider is to mount with the bit rein
instead of the snaffle, and he must bear in mind, that a light
hand is now particularly necessary, as the bit is so much
more severe than the snaffle. In order that the rider may
avoid mistakes, by confusing the reins, let him observe
that the bridoon reins are secured in the centre by a buckle,
while the bit reins are stitched. By attending to this dis-
tinction, he may always know which he is using.

46 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

Previous to mounting, the rider should place the centre
of the bridoon reins about twelve inches up the horse's neck,
and the bit reins about six inches behind them ; the reins
will then be properly placed for mounting ; he should now
take the centre of the bridoon through the full of the left
hand ; and with the right hand the centre of the bit rein
between the thumb and forefinger, closing them together,
and place the little finger of the left hand between them,
with the left hand below the right ; let him then draw the
bit reins through the left hand with the right, till he feels
the horse's mouth very lightly ; the right hand must then
drop the reins, and take a lock of the horse's mane, and
firmly twist it round the thumb of the left hand, which is
to be closed on the mane and reins, for if his hand should
let the mane slip in the act of mounting, it would throw a
great weight upon the horse's mouth, and might be attended
with danger. He must then go through the remainder of
the instructions for mounting as before laid down. When
mounted, release the mane from the thumb of the left hand,
retaining the reins in it : the left hand now becomes, what
the soldier terms, the bridle hand, and should be placed
opposite the centre of the body.

The right hand then takes the bridoon rein, and draws
it through the left ; thus he will have three reins in the left
hand, two below the little finger, and one between it and
the third finger, leaving for the right hand the right bri-
doon rein, which is to be held between the third and little
finger, the feeling on all four reins being equal, except, in
the early lessons with the bit, when the rider must feel it
but very lightly, increasing a little more every lesson.
The bit reins must lie flat and smooth one upon the other on
the second joint of the forefinger of the left hand with the
thumb upon them ; the bridoon rein over the bit reins next
to the palm of the hand ; the bit reins, as I have said before,
must at first be rather loose, although held properly, the
rider using the bridoon as a snaffle as he has a rein in each
hand. After the horse as gone through a part of his lesson,

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 47

the rider should halt him, and give him his head a little
that he may rest his neck, and before moving on again, just
play with the bit reins, by moving the bit lightly in the
horse's mouth, which will prepare him to face it, and if he
yields to it, that should be deemed sufficient; for the rider
must bear in mind, that the bit is of great power, and, at
the same time, consider how sensitive the horse's mouth is,
and therefore he ought to pay great attention to the light-
ness of his hand when riding on the bit, and by degrees, the
horse will become reconciled to it, when the preceding les-
sons of turning, bending, and reining back, may be repeated;
but it is not till he will obey the bit without tossing his
head or showing any other uneasiness, that he should be
ridden on the bit alone. Should he show any of these signs
the rider ought to examine the bit to see if it fits properly,
which, if it does, and he is still restless, he must return to
the snaffle till he will face the bit ; which, when he will do
freely, the rider may drop the bridoon rein, and ride on
the bit alone ; but he must bear in mind, that he has now
but one hand, and that he has a right rein in that hand,
therefore he must be very particular in preserving its
position, exactly opposite the centre of his body, and but
three inches from it ; the right arm hanging easy from the
shoulder by the side.

From this position of the bridle hand, the little finger
should have three lines of action, inward and upwards,
to guide the horse : the first towards the breast ; this will
raise his forehand, halt him, and rein him back: the
second towards the right shoulder ; this, with the proper
application of the left leg, will turn him to the right : and
the third, towards the left shoulder, which, with the aid of
the right leg, will turn him to the left : the hand being
returned to its proper position as soon as the horse answers
the aid.

The little finger should move on these lines only, in
giving the aids ; thus the horse is to be guided and raised
up at each turn, by the inward or leading rein, the out-

48 THE HOKSEMAN'S MANUAL.

ward acting in unison with, and assisting it; the legs
also assisting the hands; but in all turns, the outward
leg the stronger, and when the turn is made, the rider
must pay great attention, or he will be riding on one rein;
for let me remind him again, that he has a right rein in
his left hand, so that unless he is very particular in keep-
ing his hand exactly opposite the centre of his body, he
will lose the feeling of the left rein ; for should he get his
bridle hand the least to the left, it will take all the power
from that rein, and thus all the pressure will be on the off
side of the horse's mouth ; so that if he wished to advance
straight to his front, he could not possibly do so ; since, to
enable him to do that, there must be an equal feeling on
both sides of the horse's mouth. It will be a great assist-
ance to the rider in advancing on a line, to fix his eye on
some stationary object, and he will find his horse go to it ;
for the eye will direct his hand ; and the hand, the horse.

The Bending Lesson with the Bit.

In working the bending lesson with the bit, great atten-
tion will be required for the right shoulder-in, and the
right passage ; because in both these the bend is made by
the right or inward rein. This must be done by shorten-
ing it an inch, which can be effected by placing the thumb
of the right hand in the middle between the two bit reins,
and turning it upwards, while bringing the horse to the
position of shoulder-in, which must be done by degrees, by
first shortening bis pace.

The rider will find he gains sufficient bend by shorten-
ing the right rein one inch when the horse is placed ; and
as he has but one hand to raise the horse in front, to bend
him to the right, and to lead him away with the left rein,
he must be very particular that his hands and legs act
in unison, and that his aids are smooth and well timed :
the horse to be well raised in front, with an even pressure

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL, 49

of the outward leg, to keep him up to the hand, and pre-
vent him from taking too long a side step to his left.

The same instructions apply to the right pass, with this
exception, — the right rein bends and leads, and the right
leg keeps him up to the hand, as well as prevents him
taking too long a side step to the right.

Let the rider bear in mind, that it is the outward leg
that keeps the horse up to the hand in working the
shoulder-in, and the inward one in the passage.

To work the left shoulder-in and left pass, the aids
must be reversed. It is necessary to add, that the bend to
either hand should be very slight, that is, the rider must
not attempt to pull the horse's head round to his own
knee, for that will cripple him ; but if, when sitting square
to the front and upright in the saddle, he can just see the
horse's inward eye, the bend is sufficient.

Lesson XL

When the horse has been duly prepared by the practice
of the previous lessons, it will be necessary to require
something further from him in his canter. A military
horse is not supposed to be completely formed until he
can canter with ease in a small circle ; and can, from that
pace, turn to the right or left on a straight line.

The lesson of the circle should be commenced at a walk.
I would recommend the rider to practise this a little every
day, after the horse begins to understand and answer the
aids of the hand and leg.

The circle should at first be large, that is, from fifteen
to twenty yards in diameter; and as the horse is confirmed
in his balance, and the rider in his seat, the circle should
be gradually diminished. The horse should be made to
move on it for some days at a walk, yielding to the in-
ward rein, but well supported with the outward leg and

c

50 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

rein, to keep him stepping up to the hands. If the rider
finds the horse is not going up, and yielding to the inward
rein, he must press him up to it by closing the inward leg
more strongly.

When he has acquired a firm even pace at a walk in the
circle, he should be urged to a gentle trot, and afterwards
to a short collected canter. When working on a circle,
the hind feet should follow the track of the fore feet, for if
he should throw his haunches too much inwards, he will
strain his hind quarters ; or if he should throw them out-
wards, he will lay too much stress on his shoulders. These
are errors to which a young horse is very liable, and
should be guarded against.

If a horse shows unusual dislike or awkwardness in the
circle, and no natural impediment be the cause, he should
be put back to the exercise of his previous lessons of the
shoulder-in and passage, which will, in a short time, bring
him to that of the circle, without difficulty.

The practice of the various aids required in the pre-
ceding lessons, will have prepared the young horseman,
as well as the young horse, for those of the circle. These
exercises are essential to every horseman, and will enable
him to gain advantage over an obstinate and awkward
horse, in proportion to his skill in their application. It is
not sufficient that the rules by which the horse is to be
governed, should be merely known ; they must be prac-
tised until they become habitual. To this end, much exer-
cise, long perseverance, and great attention, are requisite
on the part of the student ; but when these qualifications
are once attained, almost any difficulties may be overcome.

The exercise of the circle confirms the equilibrium and
unity of the rider and horse. In moving round a circle,
in order to preserve the poise of his body, the horse must
necessarily lean inwards, in proportion to the size of the
circle, and the speed at which he is made to go, the rider
must conform to, and partake of, that inclination, or the

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 51

equilibrium of both will be disturbed, and he will find it
difficult to retain his seat. He should also be very careful
to make the circle true, and to let it form a part of the
daily lessons.

Lesson XIL

I am supposing the horse has hitherto been only ridden
in a school or training ground ; but if things have gone
right so far, it will now be proper to familiarize him with
objects which he will have to encounter out of doors ; for
which purpose he must be taken into the streets. And
no doubt, at first, he will hear and see many things that
will rather startle him ; but the rider must make great
allowances, soothing and confirming him with his voice
and hand, and also taking care to allow him as much rein
as is consistent with prudence; for if, on approaching
any thing he thinks will frighten the horse, he begins to
shorten the reins, as if he would hold him by force, he
causes more alarm than the object he fancies he is taking
precautions against ; and not only prevents the horse from
passing on quietly, were he even disposed to do so, but
frequently interprets the result of his own bad manage-
ment into obstinacy on the part of the horse, and punishes
him accordingly ; thus he does as much mischief by this
one act, as a good rider can repair in a month.

A horse that has been uniformly treated with kindness
by his rider, will have such confidence in him, that he will
overcome his own fears in compliance with his master's
will, and thus will soon become familiar with any object
he may meet.

Having gone through the foregoing lessons, I will
notice some of the habits that imperfectly trained horses
exhibit; and I will begin with what is termed Eestiveness.
Now although I have said I have some doubts about there

52 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

being such a thing as a naturally vicious horse, I am
perfectly aware that some are much better disposed than
others. This does not shake my belief that most of their
tricks and dangerous habits may be traced to ignorance or
undue severity in training. They may either have had
demands made upon them to which their strength was not
equal, or been required to perform lessons for which they
had not been properly prepared, and punished for their
failure ; and thus, in self-defence, have been driven into
habits they would never have contracted under kinder
and more judicious management. These generally con-
sist of a rapid variation of plunges, rearing, running side-
ways against walls, and carriages, or bolting altogether ;
in fact, doing all they can to get rid of their tormentor ;
and the oftener they succeed, the more dangerous they
become, and more difficult to redeem, and are by no means
pleasant customers to the best rider ; for to have any chance
with them the greatest judgment and discretion are neces-
sary. In the first place, a good rider will not challenge
such a horse as this ; but endeavour by all fair means to
win him to quietness. He should have confidence in his
seat, a good hand, and above all, a good temper, as I am
certain a bad tempered man will never defeat a bad tem-
pered horse ; for as soon as he loses his temper he loses his
judgment, and then he is lost altogether.

The pace at first should be very gentle as well to give
an opportunity of discovering his tricks, as also not to
provoke him to quarrel ; on the contrary, every means
should be employed to induce him to go quietly : let fight-
ing be your last resource, and the more he loses his tem-
per, the more you keep yours. I do not, however, mean to
say that chastisement is altogether to be withheld ; but
whenever it cannot be avoided, it should be administered
with judgment and decision ; still, I am of opinion, that
nothing so soon beats a restive horse as a long lesson and
untiring patience.

The rider must be on his guard with a horse of this

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 53

description : I mean, that he should not sit carelessly nor
loosely in the saddle; for when the horse perceives that to
be the case, he knows it is a good opportunity to com-
mence his favourite pranks, whatever they may be ; for all
that are of this temper, mostly have a favourite way of
their own in commencing their tricks, and it is quite un-
certain to the rider, until he has ridden him once or twice,
in what way he will begin; therefore, he must always be
prepared. In nine cases out of ten, he will find the horse
begin the attack by stopping suddenly, and twisting
sharply round, either to the right or left, but mostly to
the latter, so that the rider should, as I have said, be al-
ways on his guard; for if the horse can take him by sur-
prise in this way, he will most likely be loosened in his
seat, and before he can recover it, the horse will repeat
the move, whatever it may be, and the rider may find him-
self on the ground before he is aware of it.

Where a horse has the habit of turning suddenly round,
which those of this temper will do when they feel a fresh
rider on their back, he should turn him quietly to his for-
mer position, and try him again, for he most likely feels
an inclination to test his rider's skill, who must therefore
endeavour to persuade him not to resist, but give him to
understand that he wishes him to go quietly, by trying him
again and again. If he will not come to the rider's terms
by fair means, he should attack him on his own ground ;
but it should be where he cannot hurt himself or his rider,
taking care to avoid the streets as much as possible, until
he answers readily the hand and leg. As I said just now,
the rider should be willing to go his way for a little time ;
what I mean by this, is, if he turns round once for his own
pleasure, without any provocation, make him turn round three
or four times for yours in the same direction that he turned
for himself; and as long as you are turning him round to
the right, keep the right spur well against his side ; if to
the left, the left spur ; always taking care to let him be a
turn or two in your debt. Attacking him on his own
c3

54 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

ground is a thing that he did not perhaps expect, and when
you square him to his front, it is most likely he will walk
on quietly ; then take care not to provoke him to quarrel
farther by beating him, and after he has tried this trick a
few times, and finds that you are as willing to turn as he
is, he will give up the contest. There are many ways of
defeating the horse without severity; for we must bear in
mind, that cruelty brought him to this state of stubbornness ;
therefore, after the rider has turned him round, and he still
refuses to go forward in the direction required, he should
turn him again with his quarters towards that direction,
and attack him by reining him back. This will be an ap-
propriate punishment, for it is easier for him to advance ten
yards than rein back one. Some horses will try to take
their rider against walls or railings ; and an inexperienced
one would, in nine cases out of ten, try to pull the horse's"
head away from them, but by so doing, he would expose
his own leg to danger ; instead of this, he should pull the
horse's head to the wall or railings, and then if he hurts
any one, it will be himself, which being a result he did not
intend nor anticipate, he will be cautious how he repeats
the trick. Thus, as I said before, the rider being on his
guard, and anticipating the moves the horse may make, is
ready at such a time to thwart him, and these are the means
that defeat him : cruelty will never do so, for he has had
too much of that already.

My opinion is, that a horse confirmed in these tricks can
never be safely relied on, for although an experienced rider
may be able to defeat him, yet it will be a work of time,
combined with great patience and some danger ; and as
soon as he had a chance with an inferior rider, he would
resort to his old tricks again. An exception may be met
with here and there ; but this is the exception, the rule is
as I say.

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 00

Rearing.

This vice is generally adopted by the colt in his early
lessons to defend himself against rongh handling. I am
quite aware that a horse will rear slightly now and then
in play, and from mere buoyancy of spirits, but does not
make a practice of doing so when urged to go up to the
hand. Now many do this ; and I will endeavour to account
for it, by supposing (as has often been the case) a colt en-
trusted for his education to a man in no way qualified for
the task, whether in skill and experience, or temper and
judgment, and who has no idea of any thing but sheer
strength, as a remedy for whatever opposition or awkward-
ness the colt may happen to exhibit ; accordingly, when-
ever an occasion of this kind occurs, (and they are likely
to be many,) he drags the snaffle through the colt's mouth
with all the force of his clumsy hand, and before the poor
animal can recover from the pain and surprise of such
treatment, he feels the whip across his shoulder or quar-
ters, and perhaps the spurs rammed into his sides ; and
after having been subjected to this usage once or twice,
the moment he makes a blunder he expects a repetition of it ;
therefore, to save his mouth, up he comes ; and finding his
rider dare not hold on by the bit, he adopts it as a defence
as soon as he feels it brought to bear on his bars. I have
taken great interest in detecting the origin of bad habits
in horses, and have had as wide a field of observation as
most people, and am confident, that this is most frequently
the cause of dangerous rearing.

The advice cannot be too often repeated, that every one
who has to do with horses, especially in training them,
should bear in mind, that a light, kind hand, combined with
good temper and judgment, will gain more from them, thau
all the whips and spurs that have ever been manufactured.

56 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

Stumbling.

Stumbling may proceed from several causes : from some
defect iu the formation of the shoulder or foot, from weak-
ness, or from imperfect training. A horse liable to this
mistake is not a pleasant one to ride, and certainly not a
safe one to go to sleep upon, for he demands constant at-
tention, or the result may be a roll in the mud or dust.
Such a horse must never be allowed a loose rein, but must
be kept well together with his head up ; the rider also
must preserve a proper seat, and not throw too much
weight upon the shoulders, so that in case of a mistake, he
may have the chance of recovering and supporting him,
whereas, if a man sits any how, and any where, and rides
with a foot or so of loose rein dangling on the horse's neck,
it requires no seer, to predict what the consequence will
be in the event of a stumble.

My method of riding a stumbling horse is, to keep him
well up to the hand by a more than ordinary pressure of
the legs, to raise his forehand so as to oblige him to lift
his foot, and bend his knee before attempting to put it for-
ward, which will improve his action, and remedy his na-
tural or acquired awkwardness, as much as it is to be
remedied.

It is also a good plan to take no more notice of these
blunders, than to collect and support him ; for horses are
mostly very sensible when they have made a mistake, and
nervous as to the consequences, which being for the most
part punishment, in the anticipation of which, and in the
attempt to avoid it, they will jump from side to side, or
spring straight forward, so that from this habit they be-
come unsafe for a timid rider.

Over- Reach,

Also called Clacking, is caused by the toe of the hind
shoe striking against the fore one, owing to the hind foot

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 57

overtaking the fore one before it is sufficiently advanced to
be clear of it.

The horses most liable to do this by nature, are such as
have high hind quarters, and low forehands, but many do
it from slovenliness of action, and carelessness on the part
of the rider. The remedy for it is much the same as for
stumbling. The horse must be urged by the legs to step
more actively to his front, and by so doing, he will acquire
a more even length of pace. It is worth a little trouble
and attention to correct this trick, for the noise is very
unpleasant, and by no means complimentary to the rider ;
nor is it wholly free from danger, for it may happen, and
often does, that the fore shoe is loosened, or even wrench-
ed off by a repetition of blows, for which the farrier is
blamed, and often very unjustly. A more serious accident
than this may occur, (viz.) for the toe of the hind shoe to
hang in the heel of the fore one, in which case, a very
serious fall is almost inevitable.

An over-ridden and tired horse may occasionally be
heard to clack ; but then it proceeds from over fatigue,
without blame to himself or the rider ; and this is almost
the only occasion when it is excusable.

Shying.

My method of treating a horse accustomed to shy, is,
not to restrain him too much by shortening the reins, and
keeping him tight in hand, but to take as little notice as
possible of the mistake; and if the object be stationary, to
pass it frequently to convince him that he has nothing to
dread ; when, by patting him and giving him as much rein
as will in a great measure take the pressure of the bit off
his mouth, and letting him stand and look at what he seems
afraid of for a short time, he will soon gain confidence.

He should not be flogged for shying, since it proceeds

58 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

from fear and natural timidity ; nor have his mouth pun-
ished with the bit, as I am sorry to say, is the practice of
some who call themselves riders, so that instead of being
cured of his propensities, he grows every day worse, and
then, as a last resource, is sent to be ridden by a military
rough-rider ; and I, for one, have had many severe trials of
patience on the one hand, in acquiring the confidence of
horses that have been so treated, and much personal risk
on the other, from their violence.

As a general rule, I have said punishment must be avoid-
ed as much as possible. In cases, however, of waywardness
and obstinacy, it must be had recourse to, since the fault
is in this case the horse's own ; but even then, the rider
must first consider whether he has properly applied the
aids, and be very careful not to punish the horse for his
own mistake ; for if one person wished to address another
on any particular subject, and did not put a proper ques-
tion, he could not in return expect a direct answer ; in like
manner, if the proper aids are not applied, the horse can-
not answer them; for some riders, when they see any thing
they think the horse will start at, begin to shorten the
reins and press him on with their legs, and thus set him
capering by their own act, whereas he would very likely
have passed the object quietly, if the rider had not been
the more frightened of the two.

I am aware that this is not the usual method of treating
shying horses, and am quite prepared to hear it condemned ;
but the experience of many years has convinced me that it
is the kindest and most effectual method : and I repeat what
I have implied before, that one pat of the hand on the
horse's neck will gain more from him in the way of obe-
dience, than all the whips and spurs in the kingdom. The
former will inspire confidence in, and fondness for, his
master ; while the latter will only procure a sulky and
unwilling compliance, and very frequently not even that.

Ahorse, to be well trained, must obey his rider's slight-
est indication, whether of hand or leg, with confidence and

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 5 9

alacrity ; but compulsory obedience, and that which is ren -
dered only through dread of punishment, is utterly worthless,
as it may be withheld at the very moment we require it most.
We will dwell a little longer on this point, and suppose
a horse shies at an object on his right ; the inexperienced
rider will often pull his head round in the same direction,
and this arises not more from not knowing better what to
do, than to enable him by the assistance of his hand to re-
tain his seat, which is severely tested when the horse
swerves suddenly and unexpectedly, but which ought to
be preserved by a just equilibrium of the body, and not by
holding on by the bridle, which privilege no horse with a
light and delicate mouth will grant, for he will in all pro-
bability rear to take the pressure of the bit off his mouth,
and very often in this way gets rid of his rider, who will
not allow that he is at all in fault, but imputes the blame
to the horse. I will endeavour to show how he was wrong.
By bringing the horse's head round to the object that
alarmed him, and not using the left leg, he will in nine
cases out of ten run sideways to the left, away from the
object he is afraid of, and his rider's intended aids : but on
the contrary, should he feel the left rein the stronger,
applying at the same time the left leg, and also strongly
carrying his left hand over a little towards the right, at the
same time pressing the left rein firmly against the horse's
neck to assist the right hand, he would oblige him to go
sideways up to the object he was afraid of, with his head
turned a little from it. Should the horse shy at an object
on his left, the aids must be reversed. By adopting these
rules, and by kindness and forbearance, the horse will be
inspired with such confidence in his rider, and take such
pleasure in obeying him, that he will freely face those
objects to which he has a natural antipathy, thus over-
coming his constitutional timidity for the gratification or
advantage of his master; for which, the least he ought to do
is, to treat him with kindness and consideration, never tax-
ing his powers beyond what they are calculated to bear.

60 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

DEFECTS AND INFIRMITIES.

I will endeavour, as briefly as possible, to mention a few
of the more common defects and infirmities that are met
with in horses, with which the rider should make himself
acquainted, and allow for them in training.

The Head.

Some horses have not only badly formed heads, but have
them badly put on ; much, however, may be done by pains
and attention, to accustom them to carry their heads as
near the proper position as nature will allow.

A horse with a thick and narrow jole, between which
there is hardly space for the windpipe, can never carry his
head properly; should the rider persist in the attempt to
make him, he will, by pressing him up to the bit, impede
his respiration, and very likely cause him to fall. I am
led to mention these things with a hope that the rider may
be induced to examine his horse, and endeavour to become
acquainted with his defects, and ride him accordingly, as
horses are often severely punished for disobedience, when
from some natural impediment they are unable to comply.

No one expects a deformed man to carry himself as erect
and firm as one that is free from such an affliction. Why, then,
should we be more unreasonable with a deformed horse ?
It is, therefore, a part of the rider's business to make him-
self acquainted with the defects of his horse, and to ride
him accordingly.

A Low Shoulder.

A horse of this description is very unpleasant to ride,
for the rider sits as though he were always going down
hill, and his weight is constantly pressing on the play of
the shoulder, and impeding its action; therefore, such a
horse is unfit for the saddle ; but still, if it is required to

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 61

train him for such a purpose, something may be done to
improve his natural defect by raising his forehand a little
more day by day, and in time, his carriage may be im-
proved, though he will never be a pleasant horse to ride,
and had much better be used for draught.

The Narrow Chest

A horse with a narrow chest cannot endure fatigue, for
he soon becomes distressed for wind, his lungs not having
sufficient room to expand.

The form of the chest, therefore, makes a material dif-
ference to the horse, for while the deep shouldered and
broad chested horse will do his work with comparative
ease to himself, the narrow chested one will be labouring
for want of wind and strength.

On the form of the chest and soundness of the lungs, the
health and power of the horse depend ; but if he be defec-
tive here and be forced to the extent of his speed, he must
soon give in or fall, where the well -formed horse will
scarcely be fatigued, with the additional advantage of
being very pleasant to ride.

The Back.

Some horses are very long in the back ; and these should
not be pulled up too suddenly, for by so doing, they are
liable to suffer in the loins and in other ways. Others
have hollow backs, and these are generally pleasant to ride
and sit on, and mostly very easy in their paces, so that
many would prefer them to a straight, or what is termed, a
roach back. Neither conformation is, in my opinion, a de-
formity, unless in the extreme ; but the rider must be very
careful in changing from the trot to a walk, or from the
canter to a walk, not to pull them up too sharply, as from
their formation they are weak in the back and loins, and
consequently liable to injury in those parts.

62 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

The Quarters.

Horses differ very much in the shape of their quarters.
There are all the shades between the handsome and well
formed to those which are ugly and deformed. Should they
approach within two or three degrees of the latter descrip-
tion, the rider will feel a very unpleasant sensation from
their imperfect action. But there are horses whose quar-
ters could by no means be pronounced handsome, that are
quite capable of doing their work well, though, of course,
they are not so pleasing to the eye.

The Hocks.

The hocks are subject to many diseases, such as curbs,
thoroughpin, spavins, &c, which cause weakness and im-
perfect action of the joints. Such horses should not be
pulled up sharply, cantered much, nor reined back on soft
ground ; nor, indeed, put to any work that throws much
weight upon the hocks.

The Pastern.

A horse with a weak and straight pastern is very unsafe
to ride ; and so much the worse if he has in addition a low
and straight shoulder. Such a horse requires the greatest
attention from his rider. He should be made to preserve a
very even cadence in all his paces, and never be hurried; if
he is, he will be almost sure to fall. The rider should have
a very light and even hand on him and a very steady leg,
so as not to cause his step to be uneven and uncertain.

THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL. 63

The Foot.

The foot is subject to many defects ; among which we
may mention contraction, diseased and tender frogs, corns,
<fcc, which cause him to step badly and without confidence.

A horse suffering from these will, if he treads on any-
thing sharp, drop, as if he were going to fall, therefore,
much caution is necessary in riding him to give him all
the support and assistance possible.

The rider will do well, in addition, to keep him well
up to the hand ; to pick his road for him, so as to avoid
sharp stones, &c. : indeed, this should always be done, let
the horse's feet be ever so sound.

Shoeing

Owners of horses cannot pay too much attention to shoe-
ing, for horses have been irremediably lamed by the
ignorance and carelessness of farriers ; and when we con-
sider that the hardest part of a horse's foot, namely, the
outer crust, is by no means so hard as iron, it will not re-
quire much reflection to understand that if the foot is con-
fined by too narrow a shoe it cannot expand, but must
contract and grow to the shoe; and as I mentioned before,
a contracted foot is a very great defect, and renders ahorse
unsafe to ride.

64 THE HORSEMAN'S MANUAL.

Concluding Remarks.

In bringing this subject before the public, the Author
has been influenced by a desire to instruct others in those
means of training horses he has found, from much expe-
rience and observation, to have succeeded best with himself;
and also to rescue a noble and sagacious animal from some
of the mismanagement and suffering he has hitherto en-
dured ; and he does this with the greater confidence, since
he has such an opinion of his fellow men as to believe they
are not cruel from the love of cruelty, but knowing that
horses must be made to obey by some means or other, re-
sort to it as the only medium they can think of by which
to attain their object. He trusts, however, the perusal of
the preceding pages will furnish them with such instruc-
tions as they may be deficient in ; and if so, he will have
obtained the principal end he has in view. How his work
has been performed, he must leave to an indulgent public to
determine ; but upon the soundness and efficacy of his pre-
cepts, he is willing to stake his reputation.

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Hussars

8s.

First, or King's Dragoon

Eighth, The King's Royal

Guards

8s.
) 8s.

Irish

8v,

Second, or Queen's do. (Bays

Ninth, Queen's Royal Lan-

Third, or Prince of Wales's

cers . •

6s.

Ditto

8s.

Tenth, Prince of Wales's

Fourth, (Roval Irish) ditto

8s.

Own Royal Hussars . .

6s.

Fifth, or Prs. Ch. of Wales

Eleventh (Prince Albert's

Ditto

8s.

Own) Hussars . . .

6s.

Sixth, Ditto (Carabineers)

8s.

Twelfth (The Prince of

Seventh, or The Princess

Wales's Royal) Lancers.

6s.

Royal's

8s.

Thirteenth Light Dragoons

6s.

First, or Royal Dragoons .

8s.

Fourteenth, The King's Do.

8s.

Second (Scots Greys) . .

8s.

Fifteenth, The King's Hus-

Third, or King's Own Light
Dragoons

8s.

sars

8?

Sixteenth, The Queen's

Fourth (Queen's Own) Do.

8s.

Lancers

8s.

Fifth, Dragoons (late Royal

Seventeenth Lancers . .

10s.

Irish)

*

Cape Mounted Riflemen .

4s.

Infa

atry.

1st, The Royal Regiment,

19th Foot

8s.

2nd Edit

1 2s.

20th Ditto

8s.

2nd, The Queen's Royal .

8s.

21st Royal N.B. Fusiliers

8s.

3rd, The Buffs ....

12s.

22nd Foot

8s.

4th, The King's Own . .

8s.

23rd, R. Welsh Fusiliers .

8s.

5th, Northumberland Fu-

31st Foot

8s.

siliers

8s

34th Ditto

8<?

6th, Royal 1st Warwickshire 8s.

42nd, Royal Highland

12s.

7th, Royal Fusiliers . .

8s.

53rd Foot

8s.

8th, The King's ....

8s.

56th (Pompadours) . .

6s.

9th Foot ... ., . .

8s.

61st Foot

6s.

10th Ditto

8s.

67th Ditto

8s.

11th Ditto .

8s.

70th Ditto

72nd, Duke of Albany's

6s,

12th Ditto

8s.

13th, Prince Albert's Own

8s.

Own Highlanders . .

8s.

14th Foot

6s.

74th, Highlanders . . .

8s.

15th Ditto

8s.

86th, R. County Down .

8s.

16th Ditto

8s.

88th, Connaught Rangers

6s.

17th Ditto

8s.

92nd, Highlanders . . .

8s.

18th, The Royal Irish . .

8s.

LONDON :
PARKER, FURNIVALL, AND PARKER,

Military Library, Whitehall.

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