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ARTIFICIAL HOCKWORK.

■ Construct-ai by G. M. Kern, and exhibited at the Fall Exhibition of
The Cincinnati Horticultural Society— ISoi.

PRACTICAL

LANDSCAPE GARDENING,

WITH REFERENCE TO THB

IMPROVEMENT OF RURAL RESIDENCES,

THE GENERAL PRINCIPLES OP THE ART;

■WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR

PLAXTIXG SHADE TREES, SHRUBBERY AND FLOWERS,
AND LAYING OUT GROUNDS.

BY
G. M. KERN.

( SECOND EDITIOX. )

C I N CI N N ATI:
MOOEE, WILSTACH, KEYS & CO.,

NO. 2r, WEST FOURTH STREET.

18 5 5. .

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S55, by

MOORE, WILSTACH, KEYS & CO.,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Ohio.

stereotyped and Prioted by
MOORE, TTILSTACH, KEYS & OVEKE^^),

TO
ANDREW H. ERNST, ESQ.,

DISTIXGCISHED FOR HIS LOTE OF HOKTICCLTURAL PURSUITS,

S^l^is ^ alum t

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED

BY THE

AUTKOK.

^'.

■^:

PRE FAC E

^ » » • ►

A DEMAND tas for some time existed, in this coun-
try, for a work in which should be embodied, in as few
and plain words as possible, such explanations of the
Principles of the Art of Landscape Gardening, as well
as of the Practical Operations connected ivith it, as would
make the subject intelligible to that very large class
in our country who are proprietors of a portion, great
or small, oi its soil.

To supply this demand, in part — to lay before the
country gentleman certain simple and well-tried funda-
mental rules, which may guide him in conducting the
various improvements and embellishments he may desire
to make — to disseminate a knowledge of the Art of
Gardening among a large class of our Agriculturists,
whom existing works have failed to reach — to assist in
creating a more general appreciation of the art — to give

(V)

VI PREFACE.

such light to all as will enable them, even if settled
down in the wilderness, by a few simple, but tasteful
embellishments, to add beauty to their residences, or as
will aid them, at all events, in preserving, instead of
destroying the natural beauties of the country — these
have been the aims of the Author, in placing before
the public the present volume.

The Principles of the art of Landscape Gardening, as
practiced at the present day, have been laid down satis-
factorily, and at some length, by those men who have
been most eminent in its practice since the days of the
great originators of the present style, Brown and Kent —
such as Eepton, Loudon, Whately and others, in Eng-
land, Sckell, in Germany, and Gabriel Thouin, in France.
From their writings, as well as the monuments of their
artistic skill, which remain in the Gardens of Europe,
the Gardeners of the present day must study their art.
They pointed out to their successors the sources whence
they derived their ideas. They teach us not only in
what respect to be guided by Nature, but what means
we must use, successfully to imitate her. Their instruc-
tions are, however, from their great diffuseness, of but
little use to any but the professional gardener. It has,
therefore, been the aim of the writer to present, in this
Treatise, the choicest ideas of the leading authors, so

PREFACE. vn

simplified and condensed as to form, if possible, a
work that, being intelligible to all, will be, to a
certain extent, a guide to the most inexperienced, in
the formation of a correct taste.

The requisites of taste are well described by Dr.
Beattie, under five distinct heads, as follows: "1. A
lively and correct imagination : 2. The power of dis-
tinct apprehension : 3. The capacity of being easily,
strongly, and agreeably afiected with sublimity, beauty,
harmony, correct imitation, etc. : 4. Sympathy, or sen-
sibility of heart ; and, 5. Judgment, or good sense ;
which is the principal thing, and may, not very
improperly, be said to comprehend all the rest."
Mankind not being universally endowed with these
qualifications, it is evidently impossible for every man
to be the possessor of correct and refined taste, which
is of the first necessity for a Gardener. But it is
both possible and expedient to place within the reach
of all, such information as will give them some defi-
nite ideas of the concomitants which go to make up
a graceful Scene, or beautiful Landscape. An attempt
to do this is made in the following pages.

The late lamented A. J. DowxixQ, was the first
to bring the Art of Landscape Gardening, as practiced
in Europe, favorably to the notice of the American

Vm PKEFACE.

Public. By his labors, in various sections of the
Union, and more especially by his excellent book on
Landscape Gardening, which is to be found on almost
every parlor-table the country round, he did very
much toward disseminating, and popularizing a taste
for Eural Embellishments. His untimely death was
a severe loss to the Art, and to the Country. Since
Mr. Downing's death, owing to the continued prosperity
of the Country, the Art has made many and great
advances, and nowhere more so than in the Great
Mississippi Valley. Although no one has been found
to fill the place left vacant by the lamented Downing,
the Art has many worthy representatives, both East
and West. Among these we will mention but one,
Adolphus Stratjch, Esq , of Cincinnati, to whose en-
lightened and refined taste the West is indebted for
some beautiful specimens of the Art to which he has
devoted himself.

It has been thought proper to divide this work
into two parts: the first devoted to an exposition of
the Theory and Practical Operations of Landscape
Gardening, as an Art of Design and Taste: the other
a Treatise Explanatory of its Adaptation to Pleasure
Grounds, The Earm, and Cemeteries, etc. In order to

PREFACE. IX

make it as complete as possible, cotcise but explicit,
and methodically arranged Directions for tlie Working
of a Kitchen Garden, have been added. Throughout
the Author has endeavored to confine himself strictly
to the matter in hand, making his explanations and
directions as concise and plain as the nature of the
subject would admit.

If he shall be able to contribute to the awaken-
ing of a farther interest in the tasteful ornamentation
of their Grounds, in the minds of the Farmers and
Country Gentlemen, throughout the Union, the Author's
most ardent wishes will be gratified.

Cincinnati, March, 1855.

CONTENTS.

Dedication, 3

Preface 5

Contents 11

Introduction, History, Etc 17

PART I.

PRINCIPLES OF THE ART.

CHAPTER I.

Introductory Remarks — Nature, the Model of the Landscape
Gardener — ^Utility — Congruity — Difference between Land-
scape and Picture Gardening — The Picturesque Style —
Individual Taste, how far admitted 37

CHAPTER II.

Plantation — What is understood by Plantation — Principle
and Uses of Planting — The Natural Growth on the Place
to be regarded as a leading feature — Single Trees — The
Advantages of Grouping in Masses 47

CHAPTER III.

Outlines — Shape and Character of Outlines of Groups — Mr.
Whately's Remarks — The Margin or Ascending Oblique
Lines 62

(xi )

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

Composition — Point of Connection — Effect produced by simi-
lar Shapes, Leaves, and Tints of Trees — Harmony —
Contrasts 68

CHAPTER V.

Groves — Beauty of a Grove — Its Character — Single Trees —
Detached Clumps — Flowering Shrubbery, and Flowers in
the Scenery 64

CHAPTER VI.

Water — Plantation near the Water-side — Lake — Pond —
Stream or Brook — Character of Water in the Scenery —
Giving imaginary Extent to the Lake or Pond — Foun-
tains— Lawn 69

CHAPTER VII.

On the Choice of a Situation for a House — Repton's Remarks
— Convenience — Shade and Shelter — Shape of the Ground
— Convex — Concave — Plane — Alterations of the Surface
of the Ground 76

CHAPTER VIII.

Roads and Walks — Use and Destination of a Road — Character
and Course — The Approach — Rockwork — Architectural
Ornaments 84

CHAPTER IX.

Freedom of Views — Exterior and Interior Views — Way to

secure them — Prospect-Tower 90

CHAPTER X.

General Remarks — Sources of Pleasure in Landscape Garden-
ing— Unity and Harmony — Scale and Proportion 94

CONTENTS. XIU

PRACTICAL OPERATIONS.

CHAPTEK XI.

Introductory Remarks — Manual Labor — Capacities of tlie

Gardener — First Proceedings on the Place 101

CHAPTER XII.

Planting — General Rules for setting out Trees — Single
Trees — Groves — Solid Masses — Treatment of Oblique
Lines — Planting Evergreens — Shrubbery and Flowers —
Soils — Tree-holes — Treatment — Transplanting large Trees
— Preparing them beforehand 106

CHAPTER XIII.
Lawn — Sowing — Sodding — Keeping 121

CHAPTER XIV.

Moving Ground — Management necessary to save Labor and

Expense — Grading — raising Eminences — Sinking Valleys . 124

CHAPTER XV.

Roads and Walks — Construction of Carriage Roads — Con-
struction of Walks — Levels — Drainage 132

CHAPTER XVI.
Water — ^Formation of Lakes and Ponds 140

CHAPTER XVII.

Rockwork, composed of Natural Stones — Rockwork, in imita-
tion of Stalactites — Picturesque Designs 143

CHAPTER XVIII.
A Plan— Working Plan— Profile 149

Xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

List of Trees and Shrubs used in Landscape Gardening-
Evergreens — ^Deciduous Trees — Climbing Shrubs — Fine
Flowering Shrubs— Shrubs requiring Peat or Bog-Earth. . 152

PAET II.

ORNAMENTAL IMPROVEMENTS.

CHAPTER XX.
Improvements — Comfort and Profit 171

CHAPTER XXI.

City Lots 176

Figure 1 — Plan for Private Residence — City Lot 180

Figure 2 — Double House in City 182

Figure 3 — Residence, -with Garden, occupying Half a

Block 183

Figure i — Residence, -with Flower Garden, occupying

"Whole Block 185

CHAPTER XXII.

The Pleasure Ground 187

Figure 5 — Suburban Residence, surrounded by Pleasure

Ground of Two Acres' extent 195

Figure 6 — Suburban Residence, with Pleasure-Ground

and Vegetable Garden 197

Figure 7 — Country Residence, surrounded by Grove of

Forest Trees 198

Figure 8 — House situated on Terrace — Ornamented with

Statues, Vases, etc. — Large Lawn and Shrubbery in

Front 199

CONTENTS. XV

Figure 9 — A Ground Plan, showing Three Striking

Scenes 203

Figure 10 — Suburban Residence, surrounded by Pleas-
ure Ground — Parterre of Flowers in Front 205

Figure 11 — Country Residence with Two Extensive
Lawns, Orchard, Kitchen-Garden and Poultry-
Yard 209

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Flower Garden, 211

Figure 12 — Parterre of Flowers — Center of Trellis-
Work 211

Figure 13 — Flower Garden in Geometric style, with

Fountain 215

CHAPTER XXIV.

Culture of Flowers — Annuals best adapted for sowing in
a Hotbed — Annuals which are best sown in the Gar-
den — Biennials and Perennials — Bulbous Perennials —
Tender Bulbous Flowers — Hardy Bulbous Flowers —
Dahlias — The Rose — Greenhouse Plants 217

CHAPTER XXV.
Fruit-Trees — The Orchard 241

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Farm 247

Figure 11 — Ground Plan of an Ornamental Farm,

Devoted to Cattle-grazing and Tillage 251

CHAPTER XXVII.
Public Squares and Parks 255

CHAPTER XXVIII.

The Cemetery 258

Figure 15 — Plan for Cemetery 260-61

XVI CONTENTS.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Remarks 268

Aspect 270

Shape of the Ground 271

The Soil 272

Manure 273

Tillage 274

Weeding and Cleaning 276

Asparagus 279

Rhubarb, or Pie Plant 281

Artichoke 282

ANNUAL VEGETABLES.

Beans 283

Peas 285

Okra 286

Tomato 287

Egg Plant — Peppers 288

Melons 289

Cucumber 290

Squash — The Pumpkin — Sweet Corn 291

Cabbage 292

Cauliflower 293

Broccoli 294

Greens — Lettuce 295

Endive 296

Sorrel — Parsley — Celery 297

Radish 299

Beet 300

Turnip — Carrot 301

Onion 302

Potato 304

The Strawberry 307

Forcing — Raising Seed 314^317

IN CLOSURES.

Fencing — Hedge-planting 320

P R A C T I C A I

jU

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

INTEODUCTION— HISTORY, ETC.

A DESIKE to possess a spot of ground wliereon to
erect a liome, or abiding-place, lias been a ruling
sentiment in the human breast since mankind first
emerged from tlie nomadic state, which tradition
assures us was the primary stage of the existence
of our race. It is to this longing for a place,
where might be realized, in their fullest sense and
effect, the feelings of mutual affection and esteem
which bind together the various individuals compos-
ing a family circle — it is to this sentiment that
we may ascribe the first rude ideas of a Garden;
for the mind which coveted ownership could scarcely,
we imagine, refrain from the desire to improve and

beautify this home.

2 (17)

18 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

To protect it from the encroacliments of tlie beasts
of tlie wood and iSeld, was necessarily one of tlie first
steps in tlie formation of a constant abiding-place.
To supply the cravings of bunger by tbe raising of
a few of tbe commonest fruits and vegetables, was
probably tbe next. So far, we may suppose tbe
rudest nations, wbose habitations were fixed or sta-
tionary, to have progressed. The next step in ad-
vance, and the first in the art of Gardening — the
cultivation of Flowers, Fruits, and Shrubs — more to
please the eye by the beauty of their forms and the
tastefulness of their dispositions, than to satisfy the
necessities of man — this step did not, and could not
follow, until the progress of civilization had created
a certain taste, and consequent desire for such orna-
mentation— and when also the increase, and more
unequal distribution of wealth, placed it in the power
of those in high positions to add to their state or
consequence by such displays.

Our first accounts of Gardens on a large scale,
date from the period of the establishment of re-
gal powers in the earth. That much progress was
made in the art, even in very remote times,
seems an undisputed fact; and it is by many au-

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 19

thorities supposed that tlie Hanging Gardens of
Nmeveh and Babylon, have not heen excelled by
any displays of more modern times. In Rome, and
Greece, too, in their palmiest days, much attention
was paid to Ornamental Gardening, and from the
description left us by Pliny, and other historians,
there is no doubt that the sums lavished upon
their Gardens by the Eomans, during the Empire,
were not expended without due regard to taste.

It is to be remarked that, as the first ideas
of Gardens were in connection with the comforts
and pleasures of home, so all nations who have
at any time practiced gardening, have adhered to
this idea, by endeavoring to combine utility with
beauty, and by modifying the principles of the art,
in all cases, to the climate and country in which
they lived ; thus, under the burning skies of
Asia, we find stately groves of magnificent shade-
trees, beneath whose shelter their indolent posses-
sors sought relief from the extreme heat; while in
the more genial climes of Greece and Italy, Gar-
dens were enriched with costly statuary, abounded
in pleasure houses and other architectural displays,
and were surrounded and planted with low trees

20 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

and shrubbery, to shade without excluding the light
or sun; and among our rude ancestors, the Gauls
and Britons, gardening was applied jn-incipally to
vast inclosures, preserves for the game, which they
delighted in hunting.

In the same manner the Gardens of more mod-
ern nations show evidences of similar adaptations
of taste to the incidents of climate and country.
In Asia, the Gardens of to-day are but fac-similes
of those existing thousands of years ago, in Italy,
when the conquering hordes of Asia effectually
destroyed the art of gardening, with the other foot-
prints of civilization, not leaving a trace standing,
by which to recognize its former grandeur. The
style of art in the seventeenth century differed but
little, in its leading features, from tliat during the
Eoman empire. Cardinal D'Est, to whom the revi-
val of the art in Italy is principally due, con-
structed his celebrated Gardens upon the site of
those of the Emperor Adrian (the splendor of which
history has made known to us), and many of the
vases, statues, etc., of the Koman Garden were
here brought to light, and re-applied to tlieir former
uses. " Balustraded terraces of masonry ; magnifi-

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 21

cent flights of steps ; arcades and architectural grot-
toes; lofty clipped hedges, with niches and recesses,
enriched with sculpture, were the components of the
Italian style of gardening.

The Italian style was the first introduced, upon
the revival of the art in Europe, and soon ohtained
in every part of the continent, as well as in Eng-
land. The French altered it materially to suit their
cooler climate, and more level country. Less fond
of elahorate architectural displays, they eschewed the
terraces and arcades of Italy, supplying their places
with long avenues of trees, and grass, and flower-
plots of intricate geometrical forms. Le Notre,
gardener to king Louis XIV, was the master spirit
of this style, and his models and plans were copied
all over Europe, and are, to this day, the truest
representations of the French Style.

When Holland became the great emporium of
the commerce of the world, the art of Landscape
Gardening assumed there also an important stand,
and there was formed another modification of the
Italian, called the "Dutch Style." It consisted of
sloped terraces of grass, regular shapes of land and

22 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

water, formed by art, and adorned with trees in
pots, or planted alternately, and closely clipped, to
preserve the utmost regularity of shape. His style
abounded in the quaint and grotesque, which made
it a favorite in many parts of Europe. It was
introduced into England by King William III, and
prevailed there for about half a century. The
Dutch, beside originating a peculiar style in gar-
dening, have the greater merit of introducing to
Europe the first specimens of many strange species
of trees, shrubs, and flowers, principally from their
East Indian possessions. Some of these have become
the rarest and most beautiful ornaments of our Gar-
dens and greenhouses. They also acquired a great
name for superiority in the cultivation of bulbs,
and in this department they are yet unsurpassed.
In England, various styles of gardening have
been the fashion at different times; the Italian was
the first to be imitated there. This was succeeded
by the Freuch aud Dutch styles. To all these suc-
ceeded what is now called the "Natural Style,"
which has, in turn, been favorably received and
imitated by every nation of Europe, and is now

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 23

fully recognized there, and in this country, as unit-
ing in itself all the qualities demanded hy the most
correct and refined taste.

Brown and Kent, the great leaders and origin-
ators of this style, taught that nature must he the
only model of the gardener. They ohserved that in
the English Gardens, Nature, distorted at great lahor
and expense, had lost her power of pleasing with
the loss of her novelty — that the most elaborate
productions of art resulted in naught hut tlie most
tiresome sameness of forms and figures. Disgusted
with the universal stifincss and monotony, they
boldly struck out a new path in the art. They
were not long in finding admirers and patrons, and
o-reat chau2;es wore made in the Gardens and
grounds of the nobility, under the direction of
Brown. The straight lines and stiff terraces of the
ancient style, were succeeded by fl.owing lines, ex-
tensive, smooth lawns, and verdant slopes ; the formal
avenues and geometrical clumps, in which trees had
been arranged, were superseded by pleasing curves,
and an irregularity of grouping, which relieved the
eye and beautified the scene.

During Mr. Brown's life, these improvements,

24 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

carried on under liis own direction, were character-
ized by moderation, and a discriminating, good taste,
wliicli spared many of the heauties of the old style.
His successors, who were mainly his working men
and gardeners — possessed of his ideas without his
taste in their application — his zeal without his dis-
crimination, like many other reformers, mistook de-
struction for improvement, and proceeded with a
blind fury, to cut down the noblest avenues of forest
trees — the growth of centuries — merely because
they had been arranged in "straight lines," which
they were taught to abhor. They fell into the mis-
taken notion, that greatness of extent would j)roduce
greatness of character — that vastness was, in effect,
beauty; their works therefore soon showed naught
but an immeasurable extent of naked lawns, tedious
lengths of belts and drives — a useless breadth and
tiresome meandering of roads, and in short, an arti-
ficial irregularity, which showed as well poverty of
conception as baldness in execution and effect. Ob-
stinately bent upon carrying out their one idea,
they sought to produce the requisite impression of
vastness, on grounds of limited extent, by leading
the approaches to the house a tedious round over

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 25

the whole estate. Such follies and extremes could
not but attract the ridicule of all men of correct
taste. Various Landscape Painters of note, in Eng-
land, came to the aid of the gardeners. These
desired to see landscapes arranged with a view
simply to their effect in a picture, casting aside
the connection which should exist between beauty
and utility. They ignored the fact that a land-
scape in Nature, and a landscape in a picture are
very different things, and that consequently Land-
scape Painting and Landscape Gardening must ever
remain distinct arts.''

The painters insisted upon a style which is
called the Picturesque or Chinese Style, in which
the wildness and abruptness of the natural woods
was not only imitated but exceeded — losing sight
of the fact that, in bringing these qualities of
wildness and abruptness, in immediate contact with
the habitations of civilized man, the unity of the
whole was undoubtedly destroyed. They condemned

'■'An explanation of the principal points of difference between
the two, will he found in the chapter on " the Principles of the
Art."

3

26 INTRODUCTION HISTORY, ETC.

tlie smooth lawns, and meandering walks of Brown,
as strongly as the stiff parterres and terraces of
the Italian and Dutch styles. The scenes of wild
nature, with a foreground composed of hriers, stones,
and perhaps a mouldering log — this was their
beau-ideal of a landscape.

As a sample of this taste, Eepton speaks of
the grounds of Mr. Knight, a painter and author,
and strong advocate of this style, who placed near
his mansion large fragments of stone, thrown irreg-
ularly among hriers and weeds, to imitate the
foreground of a picture. The "Picturesque Style"
was found to he hut little adapted to extensive
grounds, or to he exclusively employed anywhere.

To Humphrey Eepton, Esq., an English gentle-
man of education and standing, although not origi-
nally a professional gardener, helongs the credit of
first combining all that was excellent in former
styles, and adapting this union or combination to
the Gardens and Parks of England. He founded
what may be called "Eepton's Style," which, says
Loudon, "may be considered as consisting of the
union of an artistic knowledge of the suDJect, with
good taste and good sense." Eepton says of him-

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 27

self, tliat lie "labored to establish the fact that
true taste, in Landscape Gardening, as in other
polite arts, is not an accidental effect operating on
the outward senses, but an appeal to the under-
standing, which is able to compare, to separate,
and to combine the various sources of pleasure
derived from external objects, and to trace them to
some pre-existing causes in the structure of the
human mind." To Mr. Eepton's genius and labors
may be, with justice, ascribed much of the preva-
lence of good taste in the art, as practiced at the
present day. His works are consulted and studied
as authorities, by all professional gardeners, and
the principles laid down by him remain undisputed.
He gave the name of Landscape Gardening to this
branch of the art. The labors of Kepton extended
from the year 1783 to his death, in 1818. His
last work on gardening was published in IblG.

The "Natural Style" early found its way from
England, to the various countries of Europe, where
it was adopted, with various modifications and im-
provements. Louis Von Sckell, a German, wlio
studied in England the masterpieces of Brown,
Kent, and Chambers, introduced the stvle into

28 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

Germany. He labored not only to copy, but to
improve, and many of bis works, in Germany are at
tbis day considered masterpieces. He paid particu-
lar attention to tbe plantation of wood and forest
scenery, and in tbat brancb proved bimself supe-
rior to all bis coteniporaries.

A growing taste for Botany and Horticulture,
and tbe introduction of many foreign plants, bas
given rise, in England, to a scbool, or style, to
wbicb lias been given tbe name of Gardenesque. Its
characteristic feature is tbe display of tbe beauty
of trees and otber plants, individually. Loudon,
says of it: "According to tbe 'Gardenesque School,'
all tbe trees and sbrubs planted, are arranged in
regard to tbeir kinds and dimensions; and tbey
are planted at first, at, or as tbey grow, are tbinned
out to, sucb distances apart, as may best display tbe
natural form and babit of eacb." Tbis style may
be said to bave always existed in Botanic Gardens,
and is only followed elsewhere from tbe natural
desire of gardeners and amateurs in botany, to
display to the best advantage tbeir trees and
plants.

Such is a short sketch of tbat branch of the

INTRODUCTION HISTORY, ETC. 29

art of " Grardening," coming properly under tlie
heads of Taste and Design.

Horticulture, the Art of cultivating the various
plants found in Gardens, has made much greater
improvement, within the last century, than its more
theoretical partner, "Landscape Gardening," and in
this practical age we may expect this to continue
to be the case. If we have made large advances
in the methods of raising and cultivating the plants
indigenous to our soil, yet greater have been made
in Europe, in the cultivation of exotics, and green-
house plants. The immense wealth centered in the
hands of the privileged classes of society, in Eu-
rope, has given an impetus to this branch of hor-
ticulture, whicli can only be adequately supported
by such classes; but the Horticulturist and Botanist
are indebted to the widespread commerce of the
present day, principally, for the advantages they
enjoy.

It is known that during the Eoman empire
many of the wealthy Eomans lavished vast sums
upon the cultivation of exotic plants. But Eome,
with all her magnificence, was trodden beneath the
feet of the barbarian hordes of Asia, and it was

30 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

not until the discovery of the passage to the Indies,
in the fifteenth century, that a taste for the culti-
vation of exotics was revived. The Dutch, for a
long time, were noted for the splendor of their col-
lections, brought at that time from every land, and
every clime hy their ships, which visited the remot-
est corners of the earth, in pursuit of trade. They
are still noted for their tulips, hyacinths, and other
flowers and j^lants, which yet command a high
price in the flower markets of the world. India
and America have added a vast number of beau-
tiful plants to the lists of the Gardener and Flo-
rist, and are yet yearly contributing no small share
to the decoration of the Gardens of Europe; and
we may hope that the vast unexplored regions of
South America, where vegetation is so luxuriant,
will yet add more, and perhaps, greater beau-
ties, to the collections of the Botanist and Florist.
In England, the culture of greenhouse plants is
at present carried to the greatest extent and per-
fection. In no other country in the world, is the
art of Gardening carried on to the same extent
and magnificence, at the present day, as in Eng-
land. This is to be ascribed, not so much to the

INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 31

possession by the English as a people of a supe-
rior taste for Horticulture, but to the immense
wealth which is placed in the hands of the priv-
ileged orders of Society. In France and Ger-
many, the same good taste prevails, but the means
for making a similar display do not exist. In
America, newly settled, and where, thanks to our
republican institutions, wealth and real estate are
more equally distributed, the art of "Landscape
Gardening" has not yet, and will not, perhaps, for
a long series of years, reach the eminence to which
it has attained in long-settled Europe; yet a strong
and growing taste for rural improvements obtains
throughout the Union, and in tlie Eastern States may
already be found very many villas and country
residences, which will vie with anything of the
kind to be found in Europe, in the display of taste,
although probably not in magnificence.

This taste for rural improvement seems, how-
ever, to be, in a great measure, confined to that,
as yet, small class of our citizens who have both
wealth and leisure to devote to the object. It is
much to be wished that a proper taste and desire
for rural embellishments miaht be awakened amono-

32 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

our people generally, and more particularly among
agriculturists. A very great proportion of the
citizens of the Union are the possessors of a por-
tion of land, of greater or smaller dimensions, vary-
ing from the narrow town lot to the broad farm
of hundreds or perhaps thousands of acres. It is
highly desirable that these should become inter-
ested in the cultivation of a proper taste for rural
embellishment — and should at least be possessed
of the knowledge that, be their place ever so small
or confined, they can, by a proper management of
the advantages of situation, etc., and at very lit-
tle expense, add materially to its beauty and (what
may be of more importance to some) to its cash
value. Our country possesses many and great ad-
vantages over the older or longer-settled lands of
Europe, to facilitate the operations of the Land-
scape Gardener. Her forests, the growth of cen-
turies, still adorn the natural landscape, and need
only the light but skillful touches of a tasteful
hand, to make the \ievi surpass, in grandeur and
beauty, all that the care, training, and art of Eu-
rope have been able to produce. A just apprecia-
tion of natural beauties would do much to arrest

INTKODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC. 33

the heartless and objectless course of destruction
which now prompts a great part of our agricul-
tural community to cut down, remorselessly, the
noblest trees of the forest — and for what ? — for
firewood — or to make a clearing before their houses
(in which, afterward, to plant some miserable locusts),
or forsooth, to square off the corner of a corn-
patch. Thus many beautiful scenes of primitive
forest growth, which now fall before the ax of the
woodman, might be preserved without injury either
to individual or agricultural interests. A profes-
sional Landscape Gardener, in traveling through
many parts of our country, and particularly the West,
can not fail to see that it is, as yet, a much more
important work to preserve old, than to create new
beauties. It is to be hoped that the growing
good taste of our farmers will lead them to the
same opinion.

The American, and more particularly the Amer-
ican farmer, is as yet too much of a utilitarian.
Beginning life with little or no capital, his labor
is too severe to permit him to care for more than
the substantialities of life. When he has finally
settled down in comfortable circumstances, and has

34 INTRODUCTION — HISTORY, ETC.

time and taste for embellisliiug his grounds a little,
lie lias still to contend with a lack of assistance
for his work. Gardeners are not much more plenty;
and finally comes in again the bughear, " expense,"
to frighten him from his purpose. He thinks that,
after all, it is of but little use — that it will be
an outlay for which there will be no return — that
the old cabin, with the stables in front, and the
orchard behind, is, after all, very comfortable — and
so the whole subject is dropped.

So little is yet understood, in some parts of
this country, of the comparative value of a beauti-
ful piece of ground, great or small in extent — so
little of the true theory and practice of Landscape
Gardening, that property owners are often frightened
at the price asked by a competent man, for his
services in laying out a place ; and oftener yet,
disgusted and discouraged at the work of an incom-
petent one, who has been employed because willing
to labor cheaper. An efficient Landscape Gardener
should be a man of education and taste, one whose
experience has been gained by an examination of
the masterpieces of the art in Europe and this coun-
try, and whose general qualifications are such as to

INTRODUCTION HISTORY, ETC. 35

make liim a companion for any man. It can not
be expected that such men will work for the wages
of a day laborer. And, when laying out a work
of taste, it is surely more profitable to employ such
a one, than to have a work, intended to adorn,
spoiled by one whose mind is not equal to his task.
The American taste for extra-mural burying-
grounds, has opened among us a wide field for the
display of Landscape Gardening, and promises to
become a principal means of introducing and foster-
ing, in this country, a correct taste in such matters.
Several of the Cemeteries attached to our larger
cities, as Mt. Auburn, near Boston, and Greenwood,
near New York, have been laid out by men of
prominence in the art, and after the most approved
rules, and for beauty of situation, and tastefuluess
of design, vie with anything of the kind in Europe.

PART I.

PEINCIPLES OF THE ART.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

" 'WTiate'er its essence, whate'er its name,
Whate'er its modes, 'tis still iu all, the same;
' T is proper congruity of parts combined.
Must please the senses and satisfy the mind."

It is in the works of Nature the Landscape
Gardener finds the examples he is to copy. It
behooves him, therefore, in order to acquaint him-
self with the principles upon which he is to work,
to examine attentively the effect produced upon the
mind by the various groupings, tints and forms of
plants — the pleasing irregularities of the earth'h
surface — the verdant meadows and slopes — the bab-
bling brooks, quiet fields, grand mountain scenery, etc.

Nature has placed before our eyes an endless

i 37 )

38 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

cliange of objects, organic and inorganic, differing
one from the other, in form, character and location.
The most casual observer will find, in these objects,
an increasing variety of expression — an ever-vary-
ing change — in their effect upon his feelings or
temperament.

To analyze the causes of the various changes
in the arrangement of natural objects — to separate
and examine the different shades and shapes, forms,
tints and groupings — is to study Nature, as the
Landscape Gardener should. To be able to see at
a glance the beauties and deformities of a natural
landscape — to add to the first and take away the
last, by the skillful but invisible touches of art —
to arrange an artificial landscape in such a manner
as to produce the effects of the choicest scenes of
Nature — hightening these again by the efforts of
Art — this is the business of the Landscape Gardener.

An absence of formality, of abrupt changes or
violent breaks or contrasts, is the marked feature
of the natural vegetation. As we find nowhere, as
a rule, abrupt changes in the soil, as from clay to
sand, from mountainous to low or marshy, so neither
do we see anvwhere anv intermixture of vegetation.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 39

of species difFering- radically from one another in
structure or organization. All nature's changes aro
gradual, her lines flowing and graceful. Sown by
the winds, her seeds germinate only in the soils
best suited to their wants. Thus, with each soil
is found its peculiar form of vegetation; as one
changes, so does the other. The preservation, in
an artificial landscape, of this unity and congruity,
together with the combination, to as great degree
as possible, of the useful with the beautiful, should
be the principal aims of the gardener.

Improvements are made for various purposes.
The Grounds more immediately surrounding the
habitation of man, are laid out with a view- to the
convenience and pleasure of their possessor. As
these grounds are necessarily of limited extent, an
imitation in them of the grander works of Nature,
is plainly out of place, as being out of proportion
to the whole, and diminishing, by their vastness,
the eftect of other, otherwise, agreeable objects.
Thus, should a cottage be placed in the midst of
a clump of tall maples, or hickories, or oaks, a con-
trast would be created betw^een the two chief
objects, the trees and the house, which would give

40 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the latter the appearance of an insignificant hovel,
while the former would show naught but bare,
unsightly sticks. Immediately adjoining the habi-
tations of man, everything should assume its char-
acter, and not only be, but appear to be, dressed
and cultivated. In such situations, neat gravel-
walks and smooth grass-plots, and flowering plants
and shrubs, trained and distributed by art, are
perfectly in character.

The Park, of greater extent, and not so inti-
mately connected with the mansion, may, and should
partake of the vastness and grandeur of Nature's
own works. While the grounds surrounding the
house must be ornamented with a view to conform-
ity or unity of appearance, and size of the dwell-
ing, the park gives the gardener a wider range for
the development of his ideas. " The chief beauty
of a park consists in uniform verdure ; undulating
lines contrasting with each other in variety of
forms; trees so grouped as to produce light and
shade, to display the varied surface of the ground;
and an undivided range of pasture. The animals
fed in such a park, appear free from confinement,
at libertv to collect their food from the rich herb-

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 41

age of tTie valley, and to range uncontrolled to the
drier soil of the liills."

Public Gardens, laid out only for pleasure, re-
quire again a different style, abounding more in
architectural display, and differing materially from
both park and private ground. Cemeteries, again,
are to be differently improved, although partaking
much of the nature of parks. Thus must the
gardener study, not only the intrinsic advantages
and defects of a place, but also its fitness for the
purposes to which it is to be applied, in order
that he may succeed in giving to it that greatest
charm, " the right thing in the right place."

While the gardener's work of ornamentation is
performed by a grouping together of various beau-
tiful and striking objects, he has ever to bear in
mind their effect when combined. It is very evident
that any number of objects may, individually, be
very beautiful or striking, yet taken collectively,
their effect may be marred or destroyed by reason
of their failure to harmonize with each other —
thus maintaining a forced individuality of character
"where all should be harmonious and congruous.

The gardener must, therefore, possess the faculty of
4

42 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

foreseeing what will be the effect of certain com-
binations or groupings — to view with a painter^ s eye
the landscape he is creating. Yet it is important
that he should not fall into the error, somewhat
common, of supposing that what would strike the
painter as a beautiful scene for a picture, is also
likely to be a fine scene in nature. The following
explanation, by Bepton, of the distinction between
a natural landscape and one in a picture, shows so
well what should be the principal considerations of
the gardener, in Jiis bird's-eye view, that we quote it:

" The difference," says Eepton, " betwixt a scene
in nature, and a picture on canvas, arises from the
following considerations : First, The spot from whence
the view is taken is in a fixed state to the painter;
but the gardener surveys his scenery while in mo-
tion ; and from different windows in the same front, he
sees objects in different situations; therefore, to give
an accurate portrait of a gardener's improvement,
would require pictures from each separate window,
and even a different drawing at the most trifling
change of situation, either ip the approach, the
walks, or the drives about each place.

" Secondly, The quantity of view, or field of vision

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 43

in nature, is much greater than any picture will
admit.

" Thirdly, The view from an eminence, down a
steep hill, is not to he represented in painting,
although it is often one of the most pleasing cir-
cumstances of natural landscape.

" Fourthly, The light which the painter may
bring from any point of the compass, must, in
real scenery, depend on the time of day. It must
also be remembered, that the light of a picture
can only be made strong by contrast of shade;
while in nature, every object may be strongly illu-
minated, without destroying the composition or dis-
turbing the keeping.

" Lastly, The foreground, which, by framing the
view, is absolutely necessary to the picture, is often
totally deficient, or seldom such as a painter chooses
to represent; since the neat gravel-walk, or the
close mown lawn would ill supply the place, in
painting, of a rotten tree, a bunch of docks, or
a broken road, passing under a steep bank cov-
ered with briers, nettles, and ragged thorns."*

^Sketches and Hints on Landscape Gardening, by H. Repton, Esq.,
originally published in 1795.

44 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

A non-appreciation of the objections here set out,
led to the error of ornamenting the grounds sur-
rounding the mansion, in what is called the pic-
turesque style. This style, in its fullest sense, is
only suited to certain conformations of ground, and
should be used very sparingly. It is not consid-
ered either suitable or convenient for the vicinity
of the homestead."

** " The Picturesque. This word has, of late, excited considerable
interest and controversy; but the word, like many others in
common use, is more easy to be understood than defined ; if
it means all subjects capable of being represented in a pic-
ture, it will include the pig-sties of Moreland, as well as the
filthy hostels of Teniers and Ostade; ^ut the absurdity of rep-
resenting all that is visible, without selecting what is most
beautiful, can not be better exemplified than by the following
fact: One of our most eminent Landscape Painters, was desired
to make a portrait of a gentleman's country-seat; he saw the
place during a land-flood; and when the whole valley was cov-
ered by vapor, he made a beautiful picture of a fog, after the
manner of Vernet ; and thus painted an atmospheric effect, when
he should have painted a landscape. In like manner, a beau-
tiful woman, represented during a fainting fit, may display
great ingenuity in the artist; but surely this is sickly pictu-
resqueness. The subject represented by Sal va tor Rosa, and our
English Mortimer, are deemed picturesque, but are they fit

mTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 45

And here we come to anotlier matter demand-
ing the consideration of the gardener, viz : How far
may individual taste be consulted? As there is an
infinite variety in the aspects of nature, and in
the natural shape of the earth's surface, it has
been found impossible to lay down any fixed rules
by which to lay out all, or any given number of
places. But there are two considerations wliich
should never be lost sight of. These are, utility,
and unity, or harmony and fitness of parts. The
introduction into a scene or landscape, of anything
not in keeping with its main featui*es (a thing
often done by pro/fssetZ gardeners, who mistake
tawdry for taste), is an inexcusable piece of snob-
bishness, which finds its parallel only in the igno-
rance of mock gentility, which, aping the manners
of those above it in station, succeeds only in mak-
ing itself ridiculous. For this there is no excuse.

In selecting a style of ornamentation, attention
should be paid to the leading features of the sur-

objects to copy for the residence of man, in a polished and
civilized state ? Certainly not." — Reptcm's Fragments on Theory and
Practice of Landscape Gardening.

46 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

rounding country, so as to preserve a certain har-
mony with its general appearance, else will the
hand of Art he too plainly visible.

The adoption of one style or school of garden-
ing, as better than all the others, and there-
fore to be employed under all circumstances, is
much to be condemned. The gardener should fami-
liarize himself with the various Styles, to enable
him to attain the same object by different means.
In this way he would be able to adopt the style
or school best adapted to the situation, climate or
circumstances in which he is placed, or to adopt
and combine such parts of difterent styles as may
best attain, in any given locality, the object in view.
Art and Nature would thus be more harmoniously
combined, and improvements effected of a more dis-
tinct and interesting character.

CHAPTER II.

PLANTATION.

By the term Plantation, we understand that part
of Garden scenery composed of Trees, Shrubs, Flow-
ers, etc, whether planted by man, or springing up
naturally, and made use of by the Gardener in his
work of improvement. Beside its importance in
improving and ornamenting grounds. Plantation is
of use in concealing boundaries, thereby creating
an impression of vastness of extent; in hiding from
sight disagreeable views, such as outhouses, stables,
sheds, etc., and in giving privacy to the house and
surrounding grounds. In the formation of Plan-
tations, the gardener must keep in mind the har-
monies and contrasts presented by the forms and
tints of the various plants, and the effects of light
and shadow, hight and distance, upon the various

groups and single specimens.

(47)

48 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

In commencing an improvement, the gardener
should pay much attention to the trees and shruhs
already existing upon the place. The forest trees
used for ornamental purposes are of slow growth,
requiring years, and sometimes centuries to attain
their prime and beauty. If such already exist
upon the grounds they can scarcely be prized too
highly, and should be taken duly into consideration
in the formation of the plan. Sickly, or deformed,
or broken trees should not be spared, but the ax
should be used very sparingly, and never except in
the execution of such princijiles of the art, as can
not be sacrificed without detracting from the beauty
of the whole. Our country has been so favored
by the bountiful hand of Nature, that in many
places the gardener will find abundant materials
ready to his hand, and needs but to form his plan
in accordance with the ruling features of the grounds,
and to apply a few discriminating touches of his
art, to create a scene far surpassing, in grandeur,
the noblest works of art alone.

The hand of art must be indiscernible in Plan-
tation, which should be in close imitation of Na-
ture's best works, and only recommending itself

PLANTATION. 49

beyond the natural Landscape, by the presence of
trees and shrubs not indigenous to the soil, and the
absence of aught to displease the eye, or detract
from the harmony of the whole, creating thus a
superior elegance of arrangement.

The great art in Plantation is the harmonious
union of different parts, each of which has a place
or purpose in the general arrangement. The gar-
dener has to pay regard to outward forms — to shape
of" trees, to form of leaves, to their different colors,
their hight, the rapidity of their growth, compara-
tively— and thus judge as to their general harmony.

A single tree presents to the eye a mass of
foliage, boughs and leaves, the various parts of which
harmonize together in form and color. It is this
harmony which gives pleasure to the mind, and
which we call its beauty. We find that a mass
or group composed of a number of trees of the
same species, while harmonizing in form and color,
will present much more vividly to the mind of the
beholder the various peculiarities or beauties of out-
line or color of the species, than will a single spe-
cimen. Harmonizing easily and pleasantly, also, in
their growth and shade, the peculiar conformation

so PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

of their leaves and boughs, and their colors, it is
evident that masses of vegetation consisting entirely
of one family will give more pleasure than single
specimens, and more yet than a confused intermix-
ture of various kinds. Thus a striking effect is
produced by groups of trees or shrubs whose bark
is of a bright and distinctive color, such as the
Gold-barked Willow (yellow), the Dogwood (red),
the Acer negundo, and Sassafras (green). These
peculiarities would be lost sight of were they scat-
tered singly among other trees. Masses of Eoses,
Lilacs, Jasmines, Snowballs, Catalpas or Ked-buds,
present a beautiful appearance, while any one may
see in our common garden-spots, how tasteless a
view is presented by an indiscriminate gathering
together of flowers and shrubs.

" No group of trees can be natural in which
the plants are studiously placed at equal distances,
however irregular in their forms. Those pleasing
combinations of trees which we admire in forest
scenery, will often be found to consist of forked
trees, or at least of trees placed so near each
other that the branches intermix, and by a natu-
ral effort of veo;etation the stems of the trees them-

PLANTATION. 51

selves are forced from that perpendicular direction
wliich is always observable in trees planted at regu-
lar distances from each other. No groups will
therefore appear natural unless two or more trees
are planted very near each other." To produce
this effect, two or more trees should sometimes be
planted in the same hole, their roots being cut
so as to brins: them nearer together.

CHAPTER III.

OUTLINES.

The form of the outlines of masses, or groups
has a marked effect upon the scenery. A flowing,
or straight line will give a flat, unmeaning ap-
pearance to a piece of woods, whereas a rugged,
broken outline, letting light fall into the deej)
recesses, and creating strong lines and contrasts
of light and shade, will give to the same wood
an appearance of depth, and grandeur, and natu-
ral freedom. The inlets, or incisions into the
line of woods, may he varied in depth, or inten-
sity, in order to make them appear the work of
nature. On reviewing the whole, should any one
of these incisions not have a sufficiently marked
appearance, single trees, planted before it, will af-
ford the requisite relief. The difierent parts of

plantation, in a Garden, taken as a whole, should
( ->2 )

OUTLINES. 53

appear in a freely broken line, as the different
parts of a single mass — never in a straight line.

A distinguished English writer on Gardening,*
speaks so much to the point, on the subject of
Outlines, that we are tempted to give his obser-
vations.

"The outline of a wood," says Mr. Whately,
" may sometimes be great, and always be beauti-
ful ; the first requisite, is irregularity. That a
mixture of trees and underwood should form a
long straight line, can never be natural; and a
succession of easy sweeps, and gentle rounds, each
a portion of a greater or less circle, composing,
altogether, a line literally serpentine, is, if possi-
ble, worse : it is but a number of regularities,
put together in a disorderly manner, and equally
distant from the beautiful, both of art and of
nature. The true beauty of an outline consists
more in breaks than in sweeps; rather in angles
than in rounds ; in variety, not in succession.

" The outline of a wood is a continued line,
and small variations do not save it from the

* Whately, "Observations on Modern Gardening." London;
1801.

54 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

insipidity of sameness. One deep recess — one bold
prominence — lias more effect than twenty little
irregularities. That one divides the line into
parts, but no breach is thereby made in its unity;
a continuation of wood always remains; the form
of it, only, is altered, and the extent is increased.
The eye, which hurries to the extremity of what-
ever is uniform, delights to trace a varied line
through all its intricacies — to pause from stage to
stage, to lengthen the progress.

"The parts must not, however, on that account,
"be multiplied, until they are too minute to be
interesting, and so numerous as to create confu-
sion. A few large parts should be strongly dis-
tinguished in their forms, their directions, and
their situations ; each of these may afterward be
decorated with subordinate varieties, and the mere
growth will occasion some irregularity. On many
occasions more will not be required.

"Every variety in the outline of a wood must
be a 'prominmce, or a recess; breadth, in either,
is not so important as length to the one, and
depth to the other; if the former ends in an
angle, or the latter diminishes to a point, they

OUTLINES. 65

have more force than a shallow dent, or a dwarf
excrescence, how wide soever: they are greater
deviations from the continued line which they are
intended to break, and their eiSect is to enlarge the
wood itself.

"An inlet into a wood seems to have heen cut,
if the opposite points of the entrance tally, and
that show of art depreciates its merit; but differ-
ence only in the situation of those points, by bring-
ing one more forward than the other, prevents the
appearance, though their forms be similar.

"Other points which distinguish the great parts
should, in general, be strongly marked ; a short
turn has more spirit in it than a tedious circuity ;
and a line broken by angles, has a precision and
firmness which, in an undulating line, are wanting.
The angles should indeed be a little softened —
the rotundity of the plant which forms them is
sometimes sufficient for that purpose — but if they
are mellowed down too much, they will lose all
meaning.

"Every variety of outline hitherto mentioned,
may be traced by the undenvood alone, but fre-
quently the same effect may be produced, with more

56 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ease, and much more beauty, by a feiv trees, stand-
ing out from the thicket, and belonging, or seem-
ing to belong to the wood, so as to make part
of its figures."

Particular attention must be paid to Jiight, in
finishing the margin of any tract of plantation.
The body of the wood being completed, the next
efibrt of the gardener must be, to complete the
efiect of the irregular, broken Outlines (described
in a preceding section), by bringing into connec-
tion with them plants of smaller growth. And
here he must look to Nature once more. With her
work before him, and intent on producing through-
out his landscape a natural variety, he will at once
see the impossibility of bringing his outlines regu-
larly and gradually down, as the plant-grower would
his flower-pots on the staging of a greenhouse.
Lower growing trees and shrubs, must be grouped
in front of the margin, and at such distances as
not to destroy, by their proximity, the bold efiect
of the entire mass. Arranged with a strict regard
to the rules of shape and color, they will fall natu-
rally into groups, some higher, some lower, here
in broader and there in narrower masses. Here

OUTLINES. 57

the bold upright trunk of the Oak, bearing aloft
its majestic round head, will be partly shown above
the tops of the lower growth; there the heavy
limbs of the Elm droop down, until they form a
solid mass of foliage, in connection with the lower
growing trees. Everywhere this lower growth must
stand sufficiently thick to hide from view the bare
trunks of the taller trees, which otherwise will have
the appearance, in the distance, of a plantation of
straight sticks. Foliage thus continued, and gradu-
ally and variedly brought down, will be found to
add a peculiar grace and charm to the appearance
of the whole, which will be found likewise in the
natural forest. Masses which may be viewed from
different points, should be treated as above directed,
on all the fronts which may be open to view. In
plantations forming boundaries, or skirting a road
or walk, of course they need only be thus treated
on the marffin of the walk or drive.

CHAPTER IV.

COMPOSITION.

The beauty of Garden scenery depends very
mucli on correctness of composition, i. e., joining of
parts. As the painter aims, by a skillful blend-
ing of colors, to give greater effect to bis work,
so, in like manner, must the gardener endeavor
skillfully and tastefully, and above all, naturally,
to join together the various groups, and to pre-
serve harmony by a tasteful arrangement of their
diflFerent tints, shades, sizes, etc. In plantations on
a large scale, the points of connection between the
different groups, must be formed in the manner
nature adopts, namely, a gradual change from one
form of vegetation to the other. In works on a
smaller scale, this rule, however, would only lead
to confusion, and the plan generally adopted in

such cases is, to let the different groups run into,
(58)

COMPOSITION. 59

or dovetail into one another, which gives a strik-
ing effect to the hohl, massive lines of trees, where
the change occurs.

Different species of trees, present to the eye
very various forms, hoth of trunk, houghs, and
leaves. Thus, the most careless ohserver can read-
ily distinguish an Oak from a Pine, or a Locust
from a Beech. In laying out plantations, it has
been found convenient to divide or classify trees
according to their shapes, as being either round-
headed, or oblong-headed, or spiry-topped. Among
these, again, we find a great variety in the forms
of the leaves.

Thus, the Beech and Maple have roundish leaves ;
the Willow has oblong; the Catalpa is distinguished
for its very large leaves, and the Walnut and
Locust for what is styled the pinnate form. Again,
the leaves differ in color, some having a clear shade
of green, as the Sugar-maple, the Catalpa, the
Plane-tree, Locust, and Honey -locust, etc., etc.; others
having a whitish caste, as the Swamp-maple, the
Silver-poplar, and Bohemian Olive ; and others, again,
covered with a dark-green foliage.

Thus, by the aid of the various shapes and

60 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

colors of the plants at the disposal of the gardener,
he is enabled to make his landscape either gravs
or gay, beautiful or picturesque, harmonious or con-
trasted. By connecting groups of the round-topped
trees, such as Oaks, Beeches, Elms and Maples,
whose appearances naturally harmonize together, we
create a softness and fullness of form and outline,
which is called beautiful. The same may be done
with trees having oblong, or spire-like tops, creating
more picturesque effect. Groups whose members
possess foliage of similar appearance only, may also
be connected together, and create a beautiful sym-
metry or harmony. Of these we may mention the
broad-leaved kinds : Plane-trees, Swamp-maples, Pop-
lars, Lyriodendrons. Of the ovate-leaved kinds, Elms,
Beeches, Cherries, etc. Of the pinnate leaved, Wal-
nut, Hickory, Ash, Locust, Mountain-ash, etc. And
lastly, of the various species of Pines, Firs, Juni-
pers, etc.

A universal harmony, however, would soon prove
tiresome and monotonous, and it is therefore neces-
sary to enliven the scene by occasional abrupt and
marked changes or contrasts. The preservation of
a proper proportion between harmony and contrast,

COMPOSITION. 61

is what gives expression and life to scenery, pre-
venting the beautiful from becoming monotonous,
and restraining the picturesque from wild confusion.
And here it is necessary to say, that a truly pic-
turesque scene can not be produced, as too many
imagine, by an indiscriminate, hap-hazard mixture
of different species of vegetation ; this only makes
confusion. In a landscape, intended to be pictu-
resque, the individuality of each species of tree
introduced, should be preserved, and its peculiarities
of shape and color brought into notice by planting
in groups of single species, as before mentioned ;
care being taken at the same time to place the
various species and groups in such juxta-position,
as to produce, by their dissimilarities, the contrasts
which make up the picturesque. It will be appa-
rent to any one, that in this way, by preserving
the individual traits of each plant or species, the
contrast will be much stronger than by an indis-
criminate and tasteless arrangement.

It may also be stated, as a general rule, in
regard to the positions to be assigned to the va-
rious colors of leaves, in the general arrange-
ment of the Landscape, or Wood, that the darker

62 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

tints of green giving out a heavier and more solid
appearance, sliould be placed in the background.
This will have the effect of giving greater dis-
tinctness of expression to tlie lighter colors, which
are then placed in front. Yet this rule is not
without exceptions, as light and dark tints are
oftentimes placed on the same range, when the
nature of the woods, or a desire to produce a par-
ticular effect, renders it desirable.

We next come to that of the hight and groivtii
of trees used in plantation. This is a very
important consideration with the Landscape Gar-
dener. On his knowledge of the (comparative-
ly) fast or slow growth of trees and shrubs,
and their comparative hight when grown, depends
very much of the future beauty of his plantation.
The labors of a Landscape Gardener are not for
his day only. They may in fact never arrive at
the perfection designed for them, until long after
his time. It is of the highest importance there-
fore, that he should be able not only to see the
present or immediate eflPect of his improvements,
but also to foresee their effects when, in the course
of time, his plantations shall have attained their

COMPOSITION. 63

full growth and development. Otherwise, it is evi-
dent, he will not be able to so arrange his works
as to make them present, constantly, an appear-
ance in accordance with good taste, and correct
rules. Should the gardener, in laying out any
heavy or solid mass of timber, plant indiscrimi-
nately together, fast and slow-growing trees, he will
have a broken picture for many years, than which
nothing presents a poorer appearance. The top
lines of plantations should present a continual vari-
ety of shape; round-headed trees ranging along in
undulating lines, until relieved by the lofty heads
of a group of oblong-headed trees, rearing their
tops above their neighbors ; these last being, in
turn, contrasted with trees of another shape, or per-
haps of a different color of foliage. It should be
the aim of the gardener to produce in the out-
lines of the tops as great and effective a variety as
possible, and this, if successfully done, will add
much to the beauty of a grove, belt, or wood of
any description.

CHAPTER V.

GROVES.

A BEAUTIFUL Grove of trees has many attrac-
tions, and adds mncli to the appearance of a place.
As a place of resort for the family, where they
may retire from the heat of summer, and sitting
beneath the canopy of leaves and boughs, listen to
the sweet carol of birds, the Grove is one of the
pleasantest components of a country residence.

A Grove shows to most advantage when placed
along a gentle slope or hill-side, where the eye
can at once take in its extent and beauties, and
where likewise the noble trees of which it may
consist will be brought prominently in view. Where
there already exists, on the grounds to be improved,
a grove, or collection of trees, planted there by
Nature, the gardener will not fail to take advan-
tage of them. They should not be disturbed, unless
( 64 )

GROVES. 65

very mucli interfering with the levels of the ground
or the lines of walk. If the outlines can he improved,
this may he done hy a careful use of the ax, hut
it is often more advisahle to plant additional trees
on the margins or projections, to give greater appa-
rent depth to the wood, than to make the inci-
sion deeper hy cutting down trees.

In planting a Grove, the improver should he
careful to avoid any regular recurrence of partic-
ular trees,^''' nor should they he set at regular
distances apart, hut scattered irregularly over the
surface — here wider apart — there closer — here two
or three together — yonder an open space, admit-
ting the sun to the grass, and making a hright
spot to contrast the surrounding shade. None hut

*'As an illustration of the difference between that irregu-
larity which is monotonous, and that which makes true and
tasteful variety, Repton gives the following : "If ten clumps be
composed of ten different kinds of trees each, they become so
many things exactly similar ; but if each clump consists of the
same sort of trees, they become ten different things, of which
one may be a group of Oaks, another of Elms, another of
Chestnuts, or of Thorns, etc." — Reptm on Landscape Gardening,
p. 334. g

66 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

straight-growing, wide-spreading trees should be used
in planting a Grove, that we may have an arch
of foliage formed overhead which will effectually
protect from the rays of the sun.

It is worth while to observe here, that when
it is desired to make a Grove of a dense forest
or thicket, care should he taken, in opening out,
not to cut away too much at once, as trees which
have been used to grow up closely surrounded by
others, will not bear the exposure to light and air,
except they are gradually accustomed to it. Care-
lessness in the observance of this will not fail to
destroy the trees intended to be preserved.

Single trees, or detached groups of two or more
trees, are often placed to much advantage along
the line of approaches to the house, and if beau-
tiful in themselves and appropriately situated, add
much to the effect of the Landscape. Single trees,
or open groups, also have a fine effect when scat>-
tered on the side of a steep hill, because they may
be made to mark the degree of its declivity, and
the shadows of the trees are very conspicuous.

A few Maples or other fine foliaged trees,
planted behind the dwelling, and showing their

GROVES. 67

tops above the roof, when approached from the
front, also have a beautiful eftect, beside offering
a pleasant shade to that part of the house con-
tiguous to them. Evergreens are found very appro-
priate as detached trees, or in small groups, set at
a distance of twenty or twenty-five yards in front
of a mass of deciduous trees. Their form and
color contrast admirably here.

Flowering Shruhhery and Floivers, are choice gifts
of Nature to the Landscape Gardener. With them
he diversifies the milder parts of his landscape,
and beautifies the grounds more immediately con-
nected with the dwellings of man. Like trees,
flowers should be planted in masses of similar spe-
cies and colors. This will give much more variety,
as well as greater strength and expression to their
beauty, than if planted in wild confusion. These
groups and masses, while distinctly separated on the
lawn, should by no means preserve any regularity
in shape or in distance apart, which would impart
a stiSness to the whole. Let them be of flowing
forms, and thrown at irregular distances on the
surface, regard being had to the various points
from which they may be viewed. Along the banks

68 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

of a little murmuring brook, flowers are peculiarly
appropriate, adding beauty and grace to the land-
scape, as well as enlivening it. Planted in front
of masses of shrubbery and trees, to continue the
descending line to the ground. Flowers, and Flowering
Shrubs will give a finished appearance to the scene.
Here they may even be allowed to extend them-
selves along the ground in large masses, and their
bright colors will be found to produce a striking
effect. In Flower Gardens, too, the flowers will be
found to show to greatest advantage by being-
planted in masses, consisting each of a separate
species. Thus, a group of Salvias (red); one of
White Petunias; another of Verbenas — the whole
backed by the green foliage of a belt of Shrub-
bery— can not fail to awaken the admiration of
even the most tasteless.

CHAPTEE VI.

WATER.

Of Plantation by the Water-side. — Proper
plantation along the shores of Lakes, Ponds, Streams
or Brooks, adds very much to the heauty of scenery.
Plantation must, however, here vary much according
to the character given naturally to the Landscape,
by the shape or conformation of the ground, either
natural or artificial. Thus, the shores of a lake
may rise abruptly from the water's edge, in tall
cliffs, or crags. In such a situation, which is
romantic or picturesque in a high degree, the rocks
should he covered with moss and ferns, interspersed
with such plants as are usually found in scenes
of that description, as Ehododendrons, Savinas, etc.
Of trees, Evergreens are the most suitable to such
scenes. Where the shore overhangs the water a

single Weeping Willow, its long drooping boughs

(69)

70 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

trailing near the water, often lias a liiglily pictur-
esque and pleasing effect. Lombardy Poplars are
also suitable to be placed at the water, to form a
connection 'W'ith the body of the surrounding woods.
In spots where the shores of the lake are less
abrupt and decline gradually toward the water's
edge, tall, heavy trees, as the Ash, and the larger
species of Evergreens, whose images will be reflected
by the water, will be most suitable. A view from
the opposite side, of a large group of such trees, with
an occasional opening forming a vista at the end
of which may be seen other woods, such a view will
awaken the most pleasing feelings in the breast
of the beholder.

For spots where the shore is flat or nearly on
a level with the water. Willows, Alders and Plane-
trees are suitable, when interspersed with smaller
plants. These last mentioned trees are peculiarly
fitted to grow near water, flourishing there natu-
rally, and to great advantage.

In flowing water, as streams and brooks, we do
not so often find occasion for the picturesque. When
it is needed, however, as in the neighborhood of
waterfalls, the suggestions made in relation to lakes

WATEK. 71

will answer. The general efiect of a small stream
or brook, iu a landscape, is to give it softness
and quietness. This we help most eflPectually, by
planting along the borders of the stream, low-grow-
ing bushes, as Willows, Viburnums, Hazels, etc.,
and interspersing these with occasional groups of
higher forest trees, to give more effect or expres-
sion to the scene. The little promontories formed
by the curves in the stream, should be planted
thickly with heavy-looking trees, to give an idea
of strength or ability to resist the flow of water,
and of force to make the stream change from its
direct course. These clumps, seen at some dis-
tance, make a beautiful appearance. Care should
be taken to give a natural appearance to the plan-
tation along the bank of a Eiver. To this effect,
it is well not to confine the plantation too strictly
to the bank of the stream, but to let it occa-
sionally extend back on the meadow or lawn. Such
an arrangement will prevent the scene from becom-
ing monotonous and tiresome to the eye. When
a stream takes its course through a dense forest,
or wood, it exchanges its lively, or quiet and
peaceful character, for the solemn grandeur imparted

72 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

to it by the dark, overlianging foliage of the for-
est. To prevent this characteristic from going to
extremes, it is well to open up the wood in spots,
having in its place, pleasant grass-spots, spaces on
which the sun may cast his cheerful rays. Should
the character aud conformation of the surrounding
country he such that a highly picturesque scene
would not he out of keeping, it is often found
advantageous to lead the stream over an artificial
bed of Rockwork, or down a Precipice, when the
noise and turmoil of the foaming waters will help
to create an efiect picturesque in a very high
degree.

Water is the life of scenery in all landscapes,
and should be introduced in garden scenery where-
ever possible. The Lake, by its broad expanse of
water, gives a peculiar appearance of grandeur and
importance to the scenery. One side of its shores
should always be open, only bounded by the ver-
dant meadow. The scenery surrounding the Pond
is generally impressed with an idea of solitude —
its shores may be surrounded by shrubbery, droop-
ing down in the water.

The lake may, by a proper arrangement of its

WATER. 73

bounds, be made to appear much larger than it is
in reality. This deception is often necessary in
artificial waters, where these are of but limited
extent. To this end, those parts of the banks or
shore, over which the eye glances to distant parts
of the scenery, should be kept low, nearly at the
level of the water. On such places, no trees or
buildings should be visible, to make all comparison
of size and distance entirely impossible. A single
lofty tree, if seen in its full grandeur, in such
a spot, would at once detect the small extent of the
water. In some places, the end of the deeper
recess may be hidden by trees, and drooping shrub-
bery, planted on the foremost prominences. Thus
the water is lost sight of, under the masses of
foliage, and may be supposed to extend farther
back than it really does. No walk should approach
too near to such spots, else the deception is easily
detected. The bounds or margin of a piece of
water, in natural scenery, should appear as the
genuine production of Nature; no artificial form,
especially no straight line should be visible. It
must be a line of irregular recesses and promi-
nences, which the taste and understandino- of the

74 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

gardener lias to accommodate to tlie shape of ground,
extent of water, and all other prevailing circum-
stances.

The hounds of a Stream, in like manner, should
appear natural, widely differing from those of a
canal ; the opposite shores should never be strictly
parallel. Its course, commanding the impression of
power, should not so frequently change its direc-
tion, as the meandering Brook, which passes under
various curves, through the meadow. The curves
of the stream should he in strict proportion with
its breadth and course.

A brook having a fair supply of water, may
be led on a bed of wider extent, thus forming a
stream ; yet great precaution is necessary to make
a deception of this sort successful. Deception, if
discovered, loses all its value, and should but spar-
ingly be made use of

Fountains have their most appropriate place
among the more artificial portion of the Garden
scenery, as in the Flower Garden, or on terraces
near the house. They may also be introduced in
picturesque scenery, but must appear there more as

WATER. 75

the works of Nature than of Art, being left with-
out their usual artistic embellishments.

The Lawn. — The Lawn is that part of Gar-
den scenery planted in grass. Lawn and water
form the light parts of the landscape, while trees
and shrubs make up the shade. A smooth, clean,
closely-cropped Lawn, adds very greatly to the beauty
and variety of the landscape, and consequently, in
natural, or Landscape Gardening, the Lawn is a
very important component, forming, as it were, the
groundwork of the scene.

On places or grounds of limited extent, where
cattle can not be admitted, the Lawn must be kept
trimmed by the scythe and roller. With due atten-
tion, it will make a beautiful appearance. In large
Parks, the lawn or meadow is used for pasture, or
hay is cut from it. Cattle, feeding upon an ex-
tensive forest-skirted lawn, give life and animation
to a scene which, otherwise, would often become^
monotonous or insipid.

CHAPTER VII.

ON THE CHOICE OF A SITUATION FOR A HOUSE.

No department of the Landscape Gardener's art,
seems so easil}' settled, yet in no other are so many
errors committed as in this ; and this for the very
reason that every one fancies himself competent to
determine so simple a matter. Repton remarks very
truly: "Not only men of taste fall into this error,
but the carpenter, the land-steward, or the nursery-
man feels himself equally competent to pronounce
on this subject. No sooner has he discovered a
spot commanding an extensive prospect, than he
immediately pronounces that spot the true situation
for a House; as if the only use of a mansion,
like that of a prospect-tower, was to look out of
the windows."

The same author remarks further : *• " However

"Il«pton's "Landscape Gardening," p. 61.
(76)

CHOICE OF A SITUATION FOR A HOUSE. 77

various opinions may be on the choice of a situ-
ation for a House, yet there appear to be certain
principles, on which such choice ought to be founded ;
and these may be deduced from the following con-
siderations :

" First. The natural character of the surrounding
country.

" Second. The style, size and character of the
house.

" Third. The aspects of exposure, both with re-
gard to the sun, and the prevalent winds of the
country.

" Fourth. The shape of the ground near the House.

" Fifth. The views from the several apartments ; and

"Sixth. The numerous objects of comfort — such
as a dry soil; a supply of good water; proper space
for offices, with various other conveniences essential
to a mansion.

"It is hardly possible to arrange these six con-
siderations according to their respective weight or
influence, which must depend on a comparison of
one with the other, under a variety of circumstances ;
and even on the partiality of individuals in affix-
ing different degrees of importance to each con-

78 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

sideration. Hence it is otvious that there can he
no degree of sameness in any two designs con-
ducted on principles thus estahlished ; since in every
different situation some one or more of these con-
siderations must preponderate ; and the most rational
decision will result from a comhined view of all the
separate advantages or disadvantages to he fore-
seen from each."

Other conveniences heing alike, shade and shel-
ter should never he sacrificed to freedom of view,
in the selection of a situation for a House. Mr.
Mepton says of this : " After long experiencing the
many inconveniences to which lofty situations are
exposed; after frequently witnessing the repentance
and vexation of those who have hastily made choice
of such situations, under the flattering circumstances
of a clear atmosphere and hrilliant sky ; after
ohserving how willingly they would exchange pros-
pect for shade and shelter, and after vainly look-
ing forward to the effect of future groves, I am
convinced that it is hetter to decide upon the situa-
tion of a House, when the weather is unfavorahle to
distant prospects, and when the judgment may he
ahle to give its due weight to every circumstance

CHOICE OF A SITUATION FOB A HOUSE. 79

whicli ought to be considered in so material an
object — that the comforts of habitation may not be
sacrificed to the fascinating glare of a summer's
day."

The suggestion most difficult of apprehension, in
the selection or adaptation of a building site, is
that pertaining to the

Shape of the Ground. — Upon this, therefore,
we shall offer a few observations to guide the inex-
perienced improver. " All natural shapes of ground
must necessarily fall under one of these descrip-
tions, viz : Convex, Concave, Plane, or Inclined Plane.
Except in very romantic or picturesque situations,
all the rooms on the principal floor ought to range
on the same level. There must also be a plat-
form, or certain space of ground, with a gentle
descent from the House, every way. If the ground
be naturally convex, or what is generally called a
knoll, the size of the House must be adapted to
the size of the knoll." For were the House too
large for the knoll, it is evident that, while a
smaller one would have a sufficiency of platform,
the large one would stand on the brink of a steep
bank, or fall of ground, rendering the approaches

80 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

unpleasant. Strict regard must therefore be paid,
in this instance, to the preservation of a proper
proportion. Hillocks or knolls may sometimes he
formed hy Art, hut this is hut little done in this
country. This will show the impossibility of mak-
ing up a plan or design for a House, without a
previous acquaintance with the situation or shape
of the ground on which it is to be built.

" Where the shape is naturally either concave,
or perfectly flat, the House would not be habitable
unless the ground sloped sufficiently to throw the
water from it. This is often ejBected, in a slight
degree, merely by the earth that is dug from the cel-
lars and foundations. But if, instead of sinking the
cellars, they were to be built upon the level of the
ground, they may afterward be so covered with earth,
as to give all the appearance of a natural knoll, the
ground falling from the House to any distance where
it may best unite with the natural shape." Should
there be any small hillocks near the proposed site,
they may be used to effect this purpose. This
expedient can also be used in an inclined plane,
falling toward the House, where the inclination is
not very great; but it must be observed of the

CHOICE OF A SITUATION FOR A HOUSE. 81

inclined plane, that the size of the House must
be governed in some measure hy the fall of the
ground.

" But another shape of ground is also to be
considered — thus it generally happens that a knoll
ij^^onger one way than another, or it may even
extend to a natural ridge, of sufficient length for
a long and narrow house. But such a house
must be fitted to the ground, for it would be
absurd in the architect to place it either diago-
nally or directly across such a ridge. The same
holds good of the inclined plane, which is, in fact,
the side of a valley, whose general inclination must
be consulted in the position of the building; thus
a square house would appear awry, unless its fronts
were made to correspond with the shape of the
adjacent ground.

" It may be observed, in conclusion, that on a
dead flat or plain, the principal apartments ought
to be elevated, as the only means of showing the
landscape to advantage. Where there is no ine-
quality, it will be very difficult to unite any arti-
ficial ground with the natural shape; it will in
this case be advisable either to raise it only a

82 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

very few feet from the ground, or to set the house
on a basement story. But whenever a place abounds
in natural inequalities, even though the ground
near the House should be flat, we may, without
impropriety, venture to create an artificial knoll."-''

The shape of the ground must be carefully
examined, before plans for improvement are sug-
gested. In many cases, the ground will allow to
be altered, at comparatively small expense, to suit
the wishes of the gardener. We will mention, here,
only a few instances, where an alteration of the
natural shape of the ground may be advisable. All
small eminences and hollows, often caused by the for-
mer use of the ground, are to be brought down and
filled up, to restore the ground to its natural form.

The surface of a flat, or nearly level ground,
may be greatly improved, by raising eminences
and forming easy valleys; thus creating an undu-
lating surface, far superior to a dead flat one.

An abruptly broken ravine may be changed to
a beautiful valley, by filling up its bottom with
the ground taken oS" the highest banks.

*■* Repton — Skeiches and Hints on Landscape Gardening, p. 67.

CHOICE OF A SITUATION FOR A HOUSE. 83

K a natural valley is cut in two parts by a
knoll or a ridge, it is often advisable to remove
sucb an eminence entirely.

The introduction of roads and walks in tlie
scenery, often requires considerable alteration of the
surface of the ground. Every location having its
peculiar shape of ground, it is impossible to lay
down any certain rule, how far the alteration of
the natural surface may be carried ; it is only to
be remarked, that wherever material improvement
can be made with little expense, it is well to
undertake it. Alteration of the shape of ground,
on a large scale, is, in most cases, of more ex-
pense than of actual effect, and not advisable.
The undulating, rolling ground, covered with ver-
dant turf, is undoubtedly of most advantage to
erect garden and park scenery. On an abruptly
broken terrace, the picturesque style will find its
most suitable adaptation.

Whatever alteration the ground may undergo —
however costly the operations of moving ground
may be — all interference of art must be strictly
concealed ; when completed, the whole must appear
the production of nature — only.

CHAPTER VIII.

ROADS AND WALKS.

A EoAD or Walk, being as much an artificial
work of convenience as a house or bridge, it should
plainly appear as such, and not be hid away in
a ditch, or concealed by other means, which will
not, after all, succeed in removing it entirely from
view, or if they do, will, at the same time, de-
stroy its utility. A Eoad or Walk should be firm,
of a breadth adequate to the use to which it is
to be put ; and the degree of curve regulated by
the breadth. It is to be borne in mind, that
Walks are objects of convenience — that therefore
they must have an object — and this object must
not be lost sight of; nor is it allowable to lay
out Walks out of a mere fanciful desire, or with-
out an object. Neither its course, nor any bend

or inequality in it must be objectless, but must
(84)

ROADS AND WALKS. 85

be justified by the 8lmpe of the ground, by its final
destination, or by objects along its line. In a Eoad
01' Walk, especially if it passes tbrougb a wood or
plantation, a second bend should never be visible.
The degree of curve, in a Walk, therefore, depends,
in some degree, on its width. For instance, look-
ing along a narrow Walk, a curve may be hidden
from our view, which would be plainly seen, were
the Walk broader.

A Eoad or a Walk should recommend itself
by a graceful, sweeping line. A line partially
straight, sweeping, or a segment of the circle, is
contrary to good taste, yet, nevertheless, often found
in Gardens. In highly picturesque, or wild scenes,
the Walks should partake of the leading features.
They may be rougher, narrower and more abruptly
bend in such situations. Where a Walk separates
' into two, the two new lines should diverge in dif-
ferent directions, rather than, by their new course,
give rise to an impression that they are to re-unite.
Where a Walk joins another, it should be. at acute
angles, rather than forming a right angle. The
angle formed by the divergence of two Walks or
Roads, should be planted thickly, to conceal the

86 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

j)oiiits or direction of tlic divergence. Eoads cal-
culated to be accessible to carriages, should have
no sharp or abrupt bends, as such are very apt
to be driven over by the coachman.

The approach from the public Koad to the house,
either carriage Eoad or simple Walk, is the most
important on the premises. Of the rules and prin-
ciples -which should guide the gardener in the con-
struction of approaches, Mepton has spoken so much
to the point, that we have seen fit to subjoin his
directions. He says : " Many improvers seem to
have mistaken the most obvious meaning of an
approach, which is simply this — A Eoad to the
House. If that Eoad be greatly circuitous, no
one will use it when a much nearer is discovered ;
but if there be two Eoads of nearly equal length,
and one be more beautiful than the other, the man
of taste will certainly prefer it. The requisites to
a good approach may be thus enumerated:

" First. An approach is a Road to the House,
and to that principally.

" Second. If it is not, naturally, the nearest Eoad
possible, it ought, artificially, to be made impos-
sible to so nearer.

KOADS AND WALKS. 87

" Third. The artificial obstacles which make this
Eoad the nearest, ought to appear natural.

" Fourth. When an approach quits the high-road,
it ought not to break from it at right angles, or in
such a manner as robs the entrance of importance ;
but rather at some bend of the public Eoad, from
whence a lodge or gate may be more conspicuous,
and where the high-road may appear to branch
from the approach, rather than the approach from
the high-road.

"Fifth. After the approach enters the Park, it
should avoid skirting along its boundary, which
betrays the want of extent, or unity of property.

" Sixth. The House, unless very large, and mag-
nificent, should not be seen at so great distance
as to make it appear much less than it really is.

" Seventh. The House should be, at first, pre-
sented in a pleasing point of view.

"Eighth. As soon as the House is visible from
the approach, there should be no temptation to quit
it — which will ever be the case, if iha Eoad be
at all circuitous — unless sufl&cient obstacles, as water,
or inaccessible ground, appear to justify ils course."

To these directions we will only add, that the

88 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENmG.

approach to a House, should be made, by proper
plantation, to partake of the character of the House
itself, and of the adjoining grounds. Thus an
appearance of grandeur may be given it, by the
presence of lofty forest trees, under whose umbra-
geous foliage the visitor may stop to view the
scene. Groups of flowers, appearing at intervals,
on the Eoad-side, will also give life and animation
to the scene.

EocKWORK, when in its proper place, on the
romantic shores of a Lake or Brook, or among other
broken and highly picturesque scenery, is highly
appropriate and effective. Wherever introduced, how-
ever, the hand of art should be carefully concealed,
and the work rendered natural in itself, as well
as in its harmony with surrounding objects.

Architectural Ornaments, such as Summer-
houses, Temples, etc., as well as Statues, are ad-
missible, more especially in grounds which are
themselves laid out in an ornamental manner. It
requires a" correct and practiced taste to superintend
the distribution of such objects in a Garden, as

AECHITECTURAL ORNAMENTS. 89

however beautiful the objects may be in themselves,
if placed in ungraceful positions, they will destroy
the appearance of the whole scene. More discrim-
ination is required in the adaptation of ornaments
of this kind to a place, than in any other part
of the gardener's duty. Too richly or highly orna-
mented, it will appear gaudy — too plain will argue
poverty — and to be out of place will betray igno-
rance. In matters of this kind, nothing should
be attempted, without being carried out in the most
perfect manner possible.
8

CHAPTER IX.

FREEDOM OF VIEWS.

Exterior Views or Prospects, are liigbly desi-
rable, when tlie scene is enlivened by the mani-
fold works of Nature, awing by their grandeur, or
softening and delighting by their calm beauty.
Although the gardener can not expect to rival
Nature, in the grandeur or extent of the prospects
he introduces, yet he has it in his power to aid
her, by various devices. Thus, while spreading out
before the eyes, at one place, a View or Prospect
abounding in grandeur and majesty, we so arrange
plantation, that it may be divided, and parts of
it shown from other points, awakening curiosity,
and keeping alive the attention.

As an extensive prospect is much to be prized,

care must be taken by the gardener, to arrange

his plantation in accordance with this feature. In
(90 4

FREEDOM OF VIEWS 91

mauy places, a tree, by its prominent situation,
Avill hide a beautiful scene. Again, a clump or
group, shuts out from the eye the most exten-
sive prospect. The gardener must, therefore, ex-
amine where will be the most striking Views, both
to the outside and the inside of the boundaries,
and open his plantation in accordance. Views from
Gardens differ in this, from those from a prospect-
tower, that while in the latter the view is of
unbounded extent, and the eye roams uncontrolled
over the country, as far as vision extends, neces-
sarily taking in deformities with beauties, in Gar-
den Views, we are able to direct and control the
eye in a great measure, and therefore create beau-
ties on a minor scale, which, by being more
forcibly brought to the attention by the greater
confinement of view, will impress often more favor-
ably than the view of an entire country from the
prospect-tower. Points for Views should be selected
with great care, and only a matured judgment
direct where openings should be made. In Plan-
tation, the growth and hight of trees must be
taken into consideration, in regard to their future
effect upon desirable Prospects. Thus, trees which,

92 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

when planted, were perfectly unobjectionable, might
in a few years, when full-grown, materially inter-
fere with the finest Views. The openings left
or made for distant Views, should never have the
appearance of a straight line or channel. In
placing masses, or cutting openings, while attention
is given to the view to be produced, we are not
to lose sight of the relative appearance and con-
nection of the different masses of plantation.

In creating Views or Prospects, therefore, the
gardener has the opportunity to deceive by creat-
ing a false impression as to the extent of his
grounds; and this it is necessary to take advantage
of when looking to freedom of view within the boun-
daries. While arranging for freedom of view with-
out the boundaries, we have the choice, in many
cases, of most extensive and majestic prospects, which
we can present to the eye in the most pleasing man-
ner. Within, on the contrary, we have generally
but few scenes upon which to work, and of these
the gardener makes the most, by presenting them
from different points of view, and creating a variety
of forms and views, which will interest and charm as
well as give the requisite impression of extent. To

FREEDOM OF VIEWS. 93

arrange, thei-efore, the various points of View in
such a manner as to present an ever-clianging
combination of scenery ; to keep up the interest by
a constant revelation of new beauties ; to raise the
curiosity and give play to the imagination by an adroit
management of the termination of walls, or leading
the mind to suspect the existence of more beyond —
and by means of all this, to give to the arrangement
of the grounds the charm of novelty, must be the
study of the improver.

CHAPTER X.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Mr. Eepton, who has very closely and ably inves-
tigated the causes which operate to produce vari-
ous effects, in th^ Landscape Gardener's art, has
given us the following as the principal " sources
of pleasure in Landscape Gardening:"

"L Congruity: Or a proper adaptation of the
several parts to the whole ; and that whole to the
character, situation, and circumstances of the place
and its possessor.

** II. Utility : Which includes convenience, com-
fort, neatness, and everything that conduces to the
purposes of habitation Avith elegance.

" III. Order : Including correctness and finishing.

" IV. Symmetry : Or that correspondence of parts
expected in the fronts of buildings, particularly
Grecian.

(94)

GENERAL REMARKS. 95

" V. Picturesque Effect : Which furnishes the
Garden with breadth of light and shade, forms
of groups, outline, coloring, balance of composition,
and occasional advantage from roughness and decay,
the effect of time and age.

"VI. Intricacy: Which has been defined to be
that disposition of objects, which, by a partial and
uncertain concealment, excites and nourishes curi-
osity.

"VII. Simplicity: Or that disposition of objects
which, without exposing them equally to view at once,
may lead the eye to each by an easy gradation,
without ilutter, confusion, or perplexity.

"VIII. Vaiiety.

"IX. Novelty: Which although a great source of
pleasure, is most difiicult and dangerous for an
artist to attempt, as it is apt to lead him into
conceits and whims, which lose their novelty after
the first surprise.

"X. Contrast: Which supplies the place of
novelty by a sudden and unexpected change of
scenery, provided the transitions are neither too
frequent nor too violent.

" XL Co7itinuity : This seems evidently to be

96 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

a source of pleasure, from the deliglit expressed
in a long avenue, and the disgust at an abrupt
break between objects that look as if they ought
to be united.

"XII. Association: This is one of the most im-
pressive sources of delight; whether excited by
local accident, as the spot on which some public
character performed his part ; by the remains of
antiquity, as the ruin of a cloister or castle ; but
more particularly by that personal attachment to
long-known objects, perhaps indifferent in them-
selves, or the favorite seat, the tree, the walk, or
the spot endeared by the remembrance of past
events. Such partialities should be respected and
indulged, since true taste, which is generally attended
by great sensibility, ought to be the guardian of
it in others.

" Xni. Grandeur: Consisting either in great-
ness of dimensions, extent of prospect, or in splendid
and numerous objects of magnificence. The desire
for grandeur, leads to the very common error of
mistaking extent for beauty, in scenery.

"XrV. Animation: Or that pleasure experienced
from seeing life and motion ; whether the gliding

GENERAL REMARKS. 97

or dashing of water, the sportive . play of animals,
or the wavy motion of trees."

Uniformity of style or character, and harmony
or proportion of parts with the whole, which we
understand to he the meaning of the first of the
" sources of pleasure,^' mentioned hy Mr. Eepton,
is also one of the most important. It is often
mistaken for symmetry, or the correspondence of
similar parts, which produces a dull monotony,
instead of the pleasing variety of a Landscape in
which this harmony and uniformity are kept up.
A lack of harmony and proportion will not fail
to make a place look ridiculous. Thus we some-
times see, in a pleasure-ground, flowers, trees and
ornamental shrubs, mixed indiscriminately with patches
of corn or cabbage. Or again, the writer of this
has seen a Landscape made up of graceful plan-
tation, a fine lawn, and finely-curved and sweeping
lines of walks, harshly cut into by a straight ave-
nue of formal Eed Cedars. Who would not see
here a lack of understanding, as well as taste ?
Again, it should be borne in mind, that however
beautiful an object may be in itself, if it is out of
place in the scene, its beauty will not save it from

98 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

being oftensive to the eye of taste. Thus, insert-
ing a mass of rockwork in the midst of a smooth
lawn, or surrounding an ancient castle by a grass
field, or placing a pond on a hill-side, would be
errors which the most common-place observer would
detect.

But beside this harmony or relative fitness, we
have an additional consideration, called Scale, or
Comparative Proportion. It is an axiom in Gar-
dening, that " objects are great or small only by
comparison,^' or as they have a reference to other
objects, with which they are liable to be com-
pared. As an example or illustration, place a
small cottage alongside of a church or mansion-
house, and the first will look smaller than it
really is, while the last appears larger, from the
comparison with its diminutive neighbor. So, also,
let a cottage be fronted by a group or clump
of tall Elms, and while the trees look tall and
bare, the importance, as well as apparent size of
the cottage will be much diminished. Let the
same cottage be backed by a few lower growing.
trees, whose tops will just be visible over its roof,
from the front, and it will be found to add vustlv

GENERAL REMARKS. 99

to the apparent size and importance of tlie build-
ing. So, too, in judging of the extent of a lawn
on which cattle are feeding ; the cattle in the dis-
tance appear smaller than they really are, and by
their apparent size we estimate the extent of the
lawn. Mr. Eepton gives an instance in point, of
the application of this principle. He says : *' At
Hurlinghame, on the Thames, the lawn in front of
the house was necessarily contracted by the vicin-
ity of the river, yet, being too large to be 'kept
under the scythe and roller, and too small to be
fed by a flock of sheep, I recommended the in-
troduction of Alderney cows, only (a very small
variety of the cow), and the effect is that of giv-
ing imaginary extent to the place, which is thus
measured below a true standard ; because, if dis-
tance will make the animal appear small, so the
distance will be apparently extended by the small-
ness of the animal." Again, the fine appearance
of a group of noble oaks may be totally destroyed
by their being overtopped by some other higher
tree, as an Elm in their midst, or at their back,
making them appear as diminutive bushes. All
this the gardener must bear in mind when bring-

100 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ing liis plans into effect. Thus, in crossing a
river wliicli is tlie work of art, it is preferable to
use a bridge containing more arches than one,
while in natural rivers a single arch is often
preferable, because in the latter we wish to in-
crease the magnitude of the bridge, while in the
former we endeavor to give importance to the
artificial river.

The power of increasing or diminishing the
apparent size of any object, by putting it in com-
parison with some other object, is most valuable
to the skillful gardener ; but when it is not duly
kept in mind, it often occasions as great defects, as
it might have created beauties.

PRACTICAL OPERATIONS.

CHAPTER XI.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

Having in the preceding pages laid down such
rules, and given such descriptions and explanations
Qf the components of a heautiful Landscape, as
will, we trust, be understood by the general reader,
as well as aid the uninstructed in forming a cor-
rect judgment in matters appertaining to Garden-
ing, we now proceed to give some instructions
regarding the Practical Operations connected with
the art.

A professional Landscape Gardener must neces-
sarily possess a thorough knowledge of the art of
Drawing, and a familiarity with the operations of

Surveying, beside being entirely at home in the

( 101 )

102 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Practical details of Gardening. The Amateur will
find in the following pages, such hints and instruc-
tions on the various Practical Operations of Gar-
dening, as will, we hope, not only lighten his own
labors, hut enable him to economize both time
and money, in the laying out and keeping of his
grounds.

As the manual labor is performed by common
day-laborers, who have no ideas of beauty or grace
in lines and forms, it will be found necessary, in
all cases, to lay out their work for them plainly,
and watch them closely ; without this they will
not fail to obstruct, rather than aid the amateur,
by their obstinate misunderstanding of a tasteful
plan.

The faculty oi foreseeing the effect certain altera-
tions or improvements will have upon the appear-
ance of the whole, is that which tends most toward
economizing labor and expense. This faculty is,
however, necessarily the result only of long ex-
perience in the adaptation of various shapes and
colors to various forms of ground, and different
scenes. Without the ability to foretell with cer-
tainty, the effect of his work, the gardener would

* INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 103

be obliged to work on at random, and his art
would consist of but a series of expensive and tire-
some experiments, and tedious alterations. To pre-
vent tbis, it is always necessary to engage a com-
petent gardener to lay out a Plan for the proposed
improvement. Let the proprietor closely consider
tbis plan, have it modified by the gardener in any
particular, when it conflicts with his direct wishes —
the latter being then able to show him where his
wishes would come in conflict with the harmony
or tastefulness of the whole design ; and then, when
finally the plan is fully settled upon, men may
be set to work to execute its details, without the
after necessity of changes or alterations, involving
loss of time and money, and creating vexation and
disgust.

All that is done should be done in the best
manner, else will the improvement, however costly
or elegant in design, be sure to disappoint the
hopes of the proprietor. Slight errors, in the exe-
cution of a Plan, have a serious effect upon the
appearance of the grounds. Lines which should be
parallel, and are not, faults in the level, etc.,
etc., while oftentimes themselves unperceived by the

104 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

general observer, never fail to give out an unpleas-
ant impression of the whole improvement.

The gardener or improver must be careful to make
his works join harmoniously with those of nature.
He must recollect that no work is tasteful, unless
in keeping with the shape and general conforma-
tion of the ground, and harmonious in all its parts.
All defective forms of natural forest growth, as
straight lines, formed by former fences, must be
restored to beauty by breaking their outline bold-
ly,— thus showing the beauties of individual trees,
or, when necessary to create greater distinctness of
outline, new plantations may be added, in places,
to conceal the bare stems of trees, and to give
greater depth and impressiveness of appearance.
Groves are much improved by proper and careful
thinning out, by which means, clear spots of lawn
are created m the midst of groups of trees. Where
it is desirable to obtain Views to the outside,
thinning out of branches, and topping are often
found sufficient. Where this will not answer, solid
woods may be broken through, care being taken
to give to the break a natural freedom of shape.
Thinning out must be carefully, and not too hastily

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 105

performed. Trees wliicli have grown up in the
midst of a dense group, protected then bj others,
from cold and high winds, are unfit to withstand,
singly and at once, the fierce blasts of winter.
The change should, therefore, be brought about
gradually. Trees which it is desired to remove,
should, in all cases, be taken up roots and all,
as nothing looks so unsightly and tasteless, as a
landscape clogged up with stumps. Improvements
with the ax, such as those spoken of above, will
be found to succeed best when the woods are in
full foliage.

CHAPTER XII.

PLANTING.

In taking up or setting out trees, we should
never forget that they are possessed of life, and
may not, therefore, be handled as stumps or stones.
It is necessary to preserve the largest possible por-
tion of the roots, and to trim carefully with a
sharp knife, those which were cut off or injured
by the spade, in digging up. The bark, also,
requires careful attention — should it become dry,
and much injured, it would be fatal to the tree.
Next, the tops must be trimmed, so as to pre-
serve, a balance between the body of the tree and
its roots. The roots supply nourishment to the tree,
while the leaves are its lungs. It is possible,
therefore, to deprive it of too great a portion of
leaf-making boughs, which will make it puny and
sickly, and perhaps kill it. Evergreens and Larches

(106)

PLANTING. 107

are only trimmed when any parts are badly broken
or injured.

Where it is intended to plant trees, the ground
should be previously prepared by a deep trench-
ing and manuring ; this will be found to add
wonderfully to the quick development of trees.
Where this, however, is found too expensive, it is
necessary to make the holes for the trees quite
large, say three or four times the diameter of the
circle described by the roots. The planter must
be careful to place the roots in their original posi-
tion, neither in a bunch, nor in a direction con-
trary to that they were in naturally. Surround
the roots, on all sides, carefully with fine earth. It
is important to see that every portion of the roots
comes in contact with the ground. Hard-wooded
trees must be placed in the ground, at the depth
they originally held. With such as grow from cut-
tings, as the Silver, and Lombardy Poplars, the
Willow, etc., the depth makes no material differ-
ence. They may be set at any convenient depth.
After filling in the ground about the roots, it is
trSmped down, and the operation is finally completed
by throwing two or three buckets of water around

i08 PEACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the base of the tree, which will more firmly unite
the earth around the roots.

The best season for planting or transplanting,
is early in the winter and in the spring. For
Evergreens, spring is generally considered the best
time. The operation of taking up trees, is one
requiring much care. They should be tenderly
handled, and particular attention must be paid to
saving the roots, as much as possible. After
being dug out, trees should not be left lying about
on the ground, or put away above ground, but if
not immediately to be planted again, should be
hulled in. To do this, a trench is dug, sufficiently
deep to take in the roots completely.

In Plantations of single trees it is well, here
and there, to set two or three of the same species
in the same hole, creating an effect which we often
see in natural scenery, and which adds a most
pleasing variety to the Landscape. Trees thus
planted will naturally incline from the perpen-
dicular, and often assume most graceful shapes.
In planting to form a grove, the choice of situa-
tions for trees, is a matter requiring a delicate
and correct judgment, and some experience. We

PLANTING. 109

can only say here, that it is absolutely necessary
to avoid all formality and regularity, and most
especially the regular irregulainty into which begin-
ners often run, when attempting to avoid straight
lines and regular distances. Trees should be
planted nearer together here — farther apart there —
but everywhere in such a manner that the eye can
not detect the handiwork of art.

In planting solid masses, or groups, the efiect
of the entire body upon the balance of the scenery,
as well as the effect of each individual part to
the group as a whole, must be foreseen by the
gardener. Failing in this, he will most certainly
be unsuccessful in his attempts at adding a grace-
ful feature to the Landscape. The faculty of fore-
seeing effects, as before remarked, is one which can
not be attained but by practice and experience,
in connection with a correct taste, and an eye
quick to take in all the details of a scene. We
must, therefore, confine ourselves to simple direc-
tions, as to the preliminary proceedings. The main
features of the plan for improvement being first
marked on the ground with sticks, the outlines
of the groups are next marked off. keeping strictly

110 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

in mind their effect, as regards freedom of view,
and of form, liiglit, and general shape. Longer
sticks may serve to distinguish the irregular out-
lines ; after examining which, smaller pegs will
serve to fill up the lines and render the mark-
ing plainer. The tree-holes are now made ; not,
however, following the outline marks, hut irregu-
larly— simply preserving the main features. In
making the tree-holes, when several workmen are
employed, it has heen found an excellent expedi-
ent, hy which to avoid uniformity, to allow the
workmen to suit themselves, in the first set of
holes they make, merely preserving intact the main
outline. To follow implicitly any marked out-
line would produce easy-flowing lines or forms,
which are invariahly insipid.

To produce dense masses, the improver must
imitate the ways of nature, viz : let them grow
up from a thicket. In such a case accidental
effects, and the workings of nature, are to he
securely relied on. As the plants composing the
thicket grow up, the weaker ones are either run
out hy their stronger neighhors, or they sprout
from the bottom, and remain as undergrowth, and

PLANTING. Ill

can, in time, he cut down. By proceeding in this
way, tlie improver will secure a close, compact
group for many years. In planting a group in
the way mentioned, we select young stems from
half an inch to an inch in diameter, and set them
out at from two to four feet apart, then leave
the development of the group to nature. Care
must he exercised to avoid regularity in the dis-
tances and lines. Trees of rarer species, and which
naturally demand a more conspicuous place, should
not he mixed with the commoner species, in groups,
as either they would therehy be lost to observa-
tion, or, in the attempt to make them prominent
above the rest, the compactness of the group would
he destroyed. Such trees are planted as single
specimens before the group to which they belong ;
thus they will highten the spirited form of the
group, and have sufficient room to attain their full
development and beauty. If it is intended to
plant a mass or group of half-grown trees, they
must, of course, be set at greater distances apart,
accordino' to their size. Brushwood, such as Indian-
arrow. Dogwood, Hornbeams, etc., is then to be planted
between, to make the group compact and close.

112 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Particular attention should he pajd. to form the
margin or oblique ascending line of a group. The
shrubbery is to be planted, not merely to cover
the bare stems of the higher trees in the interior
of the groups, but to produce, at the same time,
an ever-changing natural variety. Several plants
of the same species should be set together, as
though springing up from the same stock ; the out-
side plants should incline toward the ground, thus
gradually rising toward the lowest branches of the
trees. It will be found of good effect to plant
some detached, smaller groups or clumps of shrub-
bery, disposed on the same princij^le, at some dis-
tance before the group, especially in such places as
should be the most conspicuous points of the mar-
gin, being either bold prominences, or deep recesses.

The Evergreens should always be set together,
rather than scattered among the deciduous trees and
shrubs. Placed by themselves, they will show to
much more advantage, giving pleasure to the senses,
in summer, by the cool shade of their dense foliage,
and the fragrance with which they scent the air,
in winter — lending an appearance of life to the
Garden, when all appears withered and dead. If

PLANTING. 113

they are wished to produce immediate efiect on the
garden scenery, they may be set closer together
than their future size will admit, being thinned
out and removed to other places, when becoming
too thick.

This is generally done when heavier masses of
evergreens are planted. In planting detached groups
of three, five, seven or nine plants each, the plants
may be set at once at such distances as will allow
their future development. In planting evergreens by
the side of a walk or road, ample allowance must be
made for the growth of the spreading branches ; they
should be set at such a distance from the border, as
never to interfere with the free passage of the road.

Those kinds of evergreens which naturally in-
cline to the stiff form, as the Eed-cedar, the Juni-
per, the Arbor- vitse, etc., should always be set in a
denser clump, thus forcing their normal forms to
attain a more irregular, rugged shape.

Fine Flowering Shrubbery and Flowers. — It

has been remarked above, that Flowering Shrubs

and Flowers are grouped according to the same

principles as the larger masses of trees and shrubs.

They show best when grouped in masses, consisting
10

114 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAKDENESTG.

of but one kind of plant, but where, in large
masses, flowers of several kinds are brought to-
gether, a portion of the outside, or margin, should
be allowed to each, when its beauties will be shown
to most advantage, the center being then formed
of parts of all, yet not so intermixed as to form
a wild confusion. In such an arrangement of a
flower-group, the flowers should not, however, be set
regularly in borders or wreaths, but a natural
arrangement should be kept up, such as has been
before spoken of Thus we should set them, in
one place, in clumps, showing conspicuously between
masses of green shrubbery, and in another as
uniting in a solid mass, forming the immediate
margin of the group.

In planting trees or shrubs of any kind, it is
always well, when possible, to select for each species
the quality of soil which experience and examina-
tion have proved is best adapted to its growth and
well-being. Many plants require a rich soil, while
others, again, flourish on sterile, barren ground ;
some must have a dry soil, while others, again,
will grow when the ground is immersed in water.
It is true enough, that all, or nearly all varieties

PLANTING. 115

will live in common soil, neither ricli nor poor,
wet nor dry. Yet it is plain, that when they are
at once set into a soil adapted to their wants, they
will grow faster, and become hardier, and, of course,
be objects of much greater beauty. It is, however,
but seldom in the power of the improver to jpro-
vide, for all his trees, the soil they should have.
Too often his place presents a soil composed of
naught but stiff clay, barren and hard to work.
It is therefore expedient, if at all possible, to
trench deeply the soil he intends to plant. This
is an operation involving considerable labor and
expense. Should he not be able to do this, he
should, in all cases, make his tree-holes much
larger than common, that the plant may be able
to send out new roots, through the mellow ground.
For such plants as require rich ground, well-rotted
manure or loam should be mixed in large propor-
tion with the ground thrown around the roots.

For the first two or three years after groups
have been planted, it is necessary that the ground
about the bases of the trees, be kept clear of
weeds, as well as partly loose. In autumn or win-
ter, the ground should be turned up with the

116 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

spade or lioe, in order that it may receive the
meliorating influences of the frost and moisture of
winter. The turf growing around the groups should
not he cut, or otherwise disturbed, as this would
draw a line of stiff separation between the groups
and the lawn, which naturally should he united.

Where plants stand on the lawn, or anywhere
in the turf, their bases should be kept clear for
several years, that they may have no lack of air
and moisture at their roots. It will be found
necessary to give such spots an occasional clearing,
covering them afterward with litter. Should this
be neglected, the plants will become stunted and
sickly.

Great care and attention to all necessary details
is required, in moving or transplanting trees of
large size. Trees of rapid growth, and also Ever-
greens, having generally spreading and fibrous roots,
are much hardier, and do not require so much care.
It is, for instance, no difiiculty to transplant a
Poplar of nine inches diameter in the stem, while
an Oak of that size, if moved, will scarcely ever
grow. In all cases, the utmost attention must be
given to the preservation of the roots. For the

PLANTING. 117

transportation of trees, various machines have been
invented, but none are much used, in this coun-
try. For any common occasion, a dray will answer
all purposes. This should be backed up, as closely
as possible, to the base of the tree to be moved,
and the roots being loosened, the ball is slipped
on the dray. For the purpose of moving quite
large or heavy trees, a machine, of which we here
give a description, is found very useful. This ma-
chine is formed on the principle of the common
timber truck, being a strong lever attached to the
axletree of a pair of wheels. The latter are very
strongly constructed, at least five feet in diameter,
and with a six or nine inch tire. The axletree
is correspondingly substantial, and to its middle
the pole or lever is securely fixed. The pole should
be made of the toughest wood, seven inches square,
with the edges planed off, and somewhat reduced
in thickness, toward the end. The length should
be at least ten feet ; for the longer it is, the
greater the purchase in raising a tree. The pole
is strengthened by side braces, let into the axle,
and mounted with an iron eye and ring at the
point. When to be used, it is backed up against

118 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the tree, and the pole is raised and made fast
thereto. The wheels rest in the hollow made by
baring and loosening the roots, though not upon
any of them; and when all is ready, the strength
of men, or of a horse, is applied to the pole-chain,
which is, together with the tree, pulled to the
ground, the roots being by that means lifted out
of the ground. When thus borne on the machine,
it is drawn away, root foremost, to its new place,
previously prepared for its reception. The wheels
are drawn into the new opening, the pole and tree
set at liberty, and if, as is generally the case,
the root be heavy, the tree will resume its former
position, with but very little aid. The machine is
then loosened from the tree, and removed out of
the way. The roots are next carefully laid out
and imbedded in loose soil, well consolidated and
plentifully watered, and the job is done.

When a machine is made on purpose for remov-
ing large trees, the axletree may be made to fit
a pair of cart-wheels for a temporary purpose.
The axle should be formed with straight, not droop-
ing ends, as they are usually made, because this
renders the raising of the pole much easier. Upon

PLANTING. 119

the upper side of the axle there should he a thick
hlock of wood holted, to give more elevation to the
root when drawn along, and on this an old sack
or a thick hand of straw is hound, to prevent chafing
the hark of the tree.

After heing transplanted, as hefore ohserved,
trees require much water, and in the hottest part
of summer they must he well attended. Water
should he applied not only to the roots, hut also
to the entire stem and houghs, every hit of hark
heing made wet. Evergreens, in particular, require
this treatment. When ahout to transplant trees,
it is a very good plan to prepare them for that
step a year heforehand. For this purpose, it is
necessary to dig carefully round the roots, to the
depth of some of the main roots. The side roots
are cut with the ax or spade at some distance
from the stem. The trench dug round the roots
is then filled up again with earth and well watered.
By adopting this plan, the roots are forced to send
out small fihrous rootlets, which will soon form
a solid hall. Trees prepared in this way will he
much more likely to live than if simply taken up
without previous preparation.

120 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

In winter, trees may be removed witli tlie fro-
zen ball ; having been dug round, the ball is
watered in the evening previous to a cold night.
In the morning, the ball being sufficiently frozen,
the tree is taken up and removed ; trees, espe-
cially Evergreens, thus removed, will succeed very
well. In replanting larger trees, it is well to
surround the roots with sand, or fine gravel, before
filling in the earth.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE LAWN.

There are two ways to establish the grass on
the Lawn, either by sowing the seed, or by sodding.
Whatever way be adopted, it must be observed that
the ground must first be put in good order. It
should be spaded, and made fine with the rake.
In smaller places, sodding is far preferable to sow-
ing the seed, as it finishes the job at once. The
sods may be cut with a sharp spade from a pas-
ture or meadow, in pieces of a size convenient to
handle, and of one to two inches in thickness.
When put down, the edges are joined, as nearly
as possible, and fine earth or manure filled in the
cracks. In smaller or neater places, as in city
lots, great care is generally taken to join the sods
smoothly — laborers are frequently seen on their
knees, trimming the edges with a knife. After

11 (.121)

122 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the sods are laid down, they should be beaten down
with the spade, or a ponnder made expressly for
this purpose.

If the grass is to be raised from seed, the
ground should undergo a very careful preparation.
If it be poor, its surface, after being spaded, must
be enriched with fine manure, else the young grass
will meet with but little success. The seed may
be sown pretty thickly ; it should be but slightly
raked under, after which, a roller is passed over
the ground, to make the surface smooth and firm.
The ground should be of such quality as to start
the grass quickly, else it will soon be covered by
an abundance of weeds.

The borders of the Lawn should be sodded,
under all circumstances; they should not rise more
than one or two inches above the level of the
walk.

Lawns of larger extent may conveniently be
worked with the plow and harrow, and treated on
the principle generally followed by the farmer — to
sow the grass-seed between oats or wheat.

The Bluegrass is the kind of grass most desi-
rable for grass-plots intended to be kept smooth

THE LAWN. 123

and short, or for pasture, Timothy and Clover
may be used for larger Lawns intended for hay.

The verdant turf of the Lawn forms a very
important component of a beautiful garden scene.
Its luxuriant growth and verdure is highly im-
proved by frequent manurings, which should be
applied in winter. After the manure has had the
influence of frost, it is raked even and the litter
piled up and removed." The grass should be kept
low and smooth — the scythe and roller being freely
used. The borders must always be nicely trim-
med— they should be kept very smooth and short.

Many little contrivances have been invented, and
may be found in the seedstores, for the purpose
of facilitating the labor of trimming grass bor-
ders. These are most properly left to ladies and
children. A sharp spade, and a steady eye and
hand, are all that are necessary to trim the neat-
est border.

CHAPTER XIV.

MOVING GROUND,

Is the most expensive operation in Landscape
Gardening. It is, therefore, needful to use every
precaution which may serve to economize expense.
To this purpose it is necessary, in the first place,
that a complete and well-digested plan of the pro-
posed alterations should he prepared. This done,
the improver must so arrange his operations, as to
simplify them as far as possihle. Matters must he
so arranged that, when ground is once taken up,
it will he put down only in the place where it is
intended to leave it. This rule should, on no con-
sideration, he hroHeu through. Tlie ground should
he obtained as near as possihle to the scene of
operations, and should never he taken from a place
which will afterward have to he again filled up.
When it is only necessary to move ground a short

( 124 )

MOVING GKOUND. 125

distance, and on level or descending ground, it
will be found advantageous to work with wheel-
barrows, while in more extended operations, and
where it is necessary to carry the ground some
distance, carts, or perhaps wagons are preferable ;
where wheelbarrows are used, the kind called 7ml-
road hm-rows, having a round and open bed, will
be found to be a saving, both of time and labor.
On level ground, an article called a scraper will
be found very useful. The ground being first bro-
ken up with the plow, two horses are hitched to
one of these scrapers, and follow immediately after.
A man with two horses will, in this way, easily
perform the labor of half a dozen men with wheel-
barrows.

Whatever mode is used to move the ground, it
is of importance that all should be conducted with
regularity and order. There should be men enough,
at every station, loading, hauling, or leveling, to
keep all parties constantly going. Carts or wag-
ons should be so managed as not to get in one
another's way, thus losing no time by waiting one
for the other. The overseer should attend to it,
that no team goes off without a full load.

126 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

The shaping of the Ground, and the laying out
of Koads, are operations very closely related to one
another, and depend upon each other in a great
measure. The natural surface of the ground in-
fluences the improver in the directions he chooses
for his roads or walks, while these again govern en-
tirely the arti"ficial grading of the ground, which must
appear natural when completed. On level ground,
the gardener has only to consult his taste as to
the courses of his roads and walks. After this is
determined upon, however, he has to consider how
the best effect may be produced upon the flat ground
lying between the roads. Here he will follow the
dictates of taste, so far as circumstances allow. He
may sink in one place an easy valley, using the
earth which is taken out to form a gentle emi-
nence or rising ground beyond, which shall accord
with the shape of the valley. As in this pro-
ceeding, the difference in higlit is just double the
depth of ground taken out, it is possible to pro-
duce a great effect by comparatively little labor.
On rising or broken ground, it is a matter of
greater difiiculty to select courses for walks and
roads, as the gardener has to consult both good

MOVING GROUND. 127

taste and economy of expense. On such ground,
the course of a road often requires a deep cut-in
or an embankment raised up. Yet it must be borne
in mind by the gardener, that he must so arrange
the road or walk, and the grounds, in reference
to each other, as to produce the impression that
the road was regulated by the shape of the ground,
and not the ground by the road. To do this,
requires, sometimes, a little additional labor, and
always a clear apprehension of the matter under
consideration. The grade of the road should be
alternately ascending and descending, accommodating
itself, in all cases, naturally and unobtrusively to
the shape of the ground. Thus only will a road
or walk appear in its natural and proper place.
Eminences, knolls, and rising ground in general,
where made, are, as before said, mostly formed from
the earth taken out when forming the valleys and
ponds. It must be the aim of the gardener to
produce, in all his alterations of the surface, free,
unbroken, undulating lines, which shall nowhere
betray the hand of art. Such forms it is not
possible to mark out on the ground by stakes ;
they must be conceived by the experienced imagina-

128 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

tion of the gardener, and can be carried into effect
only under his supervision. In forming an emi-
nence, however, the hight to which it is intended
to carry it may be quite well marked with sticks,
the tops of which will then show the greatest ele-
vation to which the ground should be leveled.
After a sufficiency of earth has been filled in,
the whole is graded and leveled, under the direc-
tion of the gardener, and receives from him its
final and enduring expression; and this is what
can not be previously marked down by sticks.
While filling in the ground, and before leveling,
should any fine slopes, by accident, develop them-
selves, they must be carefully preserved. In opera-
tions on an extended scale, the grading and level-
ing may be performed, in great part, by the plow
and harrow ; but it will be found necessary to put
on the finishing strokes with the spade and rake.
In forming eminences, it must be remembered that
they must be strictly in unison with the surround-
ing grounds, and never betray signs of filling up.
There is nothing more tasteless, or which more
deforms a scene, than the so-called Indian mounds,
which people of a certain taste delight in placing

MOVING GROUND. 121)

in conspicuous situations, in tlieir gardens or before
their houses — circular or sugar-loaf formed — and
generally surmounted by a trimmed Cedar, or a
scraggy-looking Eosebush : these pimples upon the
fair face of Nature are highly admired.

The sinking of Valleys is likewise a work which
can not go on without the constant superintendence
of the gardener. In directing the workmen as to
the depth to be cut in, a profile line is cut in
the ground in several places, showing the average
depth at the several points. The ground is then
removed in accordance with these lines, and the
rough form of the valley will appear. Where a
valley is to be formed of a ravine, profile lines
are struck on both sides of the hollow, and the
ground coming out from the sides is filled " in
the bottom. As the filling up advances, a heavy
garden-line or long rope is suspended between oppo-
site profile lines, to determine and mark by its
help the degree of curve to be given. When the .
line is arranged to suit the improver, he proceeds
to mark the different ranges with stakes whose
tops will just touch the line. Earth is then filled
in level with the tops of the stakes ; which done,

130 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENINGf.

the form of the Valley will be before us, ready
to receive its final finish, under the direction of
the improver. In directing the laborers in their
final labors, the gardener takes care to view the
work from many different points, in order that no
defects of form may escape his eye, and that he
may obtain for his work the greatest beauty com-
patible with its situation. A valley of this kind,
when finished, should be at once sodded, as, unless
it is, the heavy rains will alter, to some extent,
the newly-formed surface, by washing down into
the hollow.

It is necessary, in forming a Valley under the
above directions, to make such allowances for the
nature of the ground, as will prevent it from being
wet or marshy in any part, when finished. In
heavy, flat soil, which is generally wet, it will not
do to cut in below the surface. Here earth must
be filled in on both sides, so as to leave a hol-
low between ; but care must be taken, not thereby
to disarrange the harmony of the surface, extend-
ing beyond the sides of the proposed valley. Drains
are often made to lead off the water that might
otherwise accumulate. These may be built either

MOVING GROUND. 131

of stone, underground, or a deep trencli may be
filled with loose stones, old logs, etc., through which
the water will sink, and leave the surface dry.

In smaller Gardens the shape of the ground
may be vastly improved by a good spading over,
throwing the ground so as gradually to form an
easy, swinging line, much superior to a dead level.
However level the grounds may originally be, the
Lawn should be in some degree, more or less,
either concave or convex, as a dead flat never
looks well. *

''There is, now-ardays, a rage for "leveling," among many
of the working hands. No matter what may be the advan-
tages a place may offer for a rolling or undulating surface,
they insist upon bringing it down to " a nice level," or " a
pretty terrace." If these gentlemen would stick to railroading,
at which they have evidently graduated, their "leveling" pro-
pensities might be of some use to the community at large, and
certainly of less injury to the Art of Landscape Gardening.

CHAPTER XV.

ROADS AND "WALKS,

As made for use, rather than show, should be
firm, smooth, and dry, at all seasons of the year.
And, inasmuch as they are objects which are open to
public inspection, they should also be kept with great
neatness. Their shapes should be sharply cut and
distinctly defined; their borders kept in order, and
all sorts of dirt or rubbish carefully excluded from
them. Thus kept, they will, by their graceful
curves and turns, add much interest to the land-
scape or scene. It has been said, in another part
of this volume, that the course of a Eoad or Walk
should not be a matter for the fancy of the gar-
dener or the proprietor to decide upon, but that
a Walk must have an object as well as a course.
We may say here, in addition, that while the walks

are laid down on the paper-plan of operations, this
(132)

ROADS AND WALKS. 133

can not entirely bind the gardener, but he must
be directed, in the execution, by his judgment, and
the accidental and perhaps unforeseen advantages
or disadvantages of the ground. While, then, in
the direction and main points of his Walks he fol-
lows the design or plan, his eye and good taste
can alone guide him in giving to them those grace-
ful bends and curves which make them objects of
attraction, and which alone can give them expres-
sion. The man of taste will not be ruled by a
Plan ; his love for choice forms, and for the beau-
ties of a Landscape, will always lead his roads
and walks through the choicest spots, and in the
easiest and most graceful lines.

In marking out the line for an intended Eoad
or Walk, the gardener should make use of sticks
about two feet long, with which he first proceeds
to secure, by measurement from his Plan, correct-
ness of general outline. Having marked the turn-
ing points and general outline, he next proceeds
to estabKsh by them, such curves and easy-flowing
lines as seem to him best and most appropriate,
to connect his former marks. When arranged to
his satisfaction, the sticks are driven into the

134 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ground, and the labor of preparing it for the recep-
tion of the suhstance which is to form the future
walk, commences.

Carriage Koads, or Drives, require to he huilt
sufficiently strong and firm, to resist the weight
and motion of carriages and horses. They should
have an easy descent on both sides, being slightly
raised in the middle. The course of a carriage
road should not be led over broken or steep ground,
but should, on the contrary, offer every facility
throughout, for easy and rapid driving. As the
shape of the ground, of course, governs in a great
degree the line of the road, and the surface may
be broken, consisting of different levels — these
levels must then be connected by easy and flowing
lines — nothing abrupt showing itself. The lack
of such unity and freedom spoils many expensive
approaches. Carriage roads must have a solid
foundation of stone, to resist the wear and tear
of the weather.

From some experience in the construction of
roads or drives, we confidently ofier the following
rule, as forming the best road that has come to our
knowledge: the ground must first be graded to the

ROADS AND WALKS. 135

exact level of the future Eoad, that there may be
a foundation upon which to work. The surface
should then he laid with stones, about six inches
square, and having the lower surface flat. After
laying these stones tolerably close together, a layer
of coarse gravel is put over them, say to the depth
of two inches, filling also all the interstices left
between the stones. A course of fine gravel, two
inches deep, is next put on, which must be rolled
down with a very heavy roller, fair and hard — a
heavy rain, before commencing to roll it down, is
quite an advantage, aiding greatly in solidifying
the road. Another course of gravel should not be
put on until the entire road is firm and solid.
When put on, it is also to be rolled down, and
made as firm as possible. A road made in this
manner, gradually, and hardened by degrees, will
outlast any other that we have ever seen. Too
much gravel put on at once, makes it a bad drive
for a long time. Eoads formed of smaller stones
(pike stones), filled in to the depth of six inches,
and covered with gravel to the depth of three
inches (a mode often pursued), are not near so
solid. Beside requiring much more labor and ma-

136 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

terial, they mucli sooner show the traces of pass-
ing wheels ; horses, too, are very apt to work up
the small stones to the surface, where they lie
among the gravel, disfiguring the road. The width
of the road must, of course, be regulated by its
importance. An approach road to the house should
not be less than ten feet wide, but must be strictly
in keeping with the style of the mansion.

Garden walks, being only for the use of pedes-
trians, and not being very much used, need not
be built so solidly as drives. The best way to
construct them, however, is to pave the ground
(previously prepared), with flat stones, as recom-
mended in making a drive, and then to cover the
stones with a layer of fine gravel, which, being
well rolled, will become as firm and even as could
be desired. In place of flat stones, the bottoms
of the walks may be filled with the rubbish which
generally remains about a new building. And in
many cases, where the ground is high, and not
marshy, the surface, after being well-graded, may
be simply covered with a good layer of gravel,
which, when rolled for some time, will prove as
firm and uniform as need be. On places making

KOAD» AND WALKS. 187

less pretensions to elegance, walks are often made
of tan-bark. This substance is neither firm nor
lasting, and is only used because less expensive
than nice, clean gravel. Whatever substance walks
may be composed of, it is important that they
should be neatly leveled, and that the borders
should be kept clean and distinctly marked. In
places where the picturesque is the ruling feature,
it is not necessary that so much neatness should be
observed, the most important consideration there,
being a dry, unincumbered walk. In situations
where the ground is steep, walks are often nicely
divided into little planes, connecting one with the
other by a few steps of stone or wood. This makes
the walks easier, or gives them less pitch.

When constructing a road or walk of any kind,
it is highly important that the ground upon which
its foundations lie, should be hard and solid. If
it has been lately dug up or spaded, or in any
way disturbed, it should be left to be settled by
the rains and storms of a winter, or it should be
pounded down solidly. A neglect of this precau-
tion often causes much trouble and unnecessary

expense.
12

138 PEACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

The improver must also make calculations as to
drainage for his walks and roads. Where the ground
is undulating, and the walks sweep across the coun-
try, now high, now low, it is easy to see that, in
the lowest places, the water will stand, in wet
weather, at least. This water must be received in
a subterranean channel, and led off. Heavy rains,
too, are apt to wash the roads, and injure them
in that way. To prevent this as much as possi-
ble, the road should be inclined toward that side
by which the water is most easily disposed of. Thus
a road running along a hill-side should incline to-
ward the lower side of the hill. Sometimes it will
be found expedient to have little channels, at reg-
ular distances, along the lower edge, by which the
water may escape. This, or some other plan, must
be adopted, to break and divide the mass of water
collecting during rains or freshets, from a road,
and the lawn adjoining, where the land is an in-
clined plane, as, if allowed to gather into a body,
it would wash away and destroy the lower part of
the road, along which it would run. In places
where a road runs along a steep inclination, the
water should be led into a stone gutter, on the lower

ROADS AND WALKS. 139

edge, whicli may have openings, at regular dis-
tances, to let the water out again. Care and atten-
tion is necessary, to keep any road in good order,
and preserve it from the ravages of water. After
every rain, roads should be carefully inspected, and
every defective spot mended. "Without this, the best
constructed road will soon fall into ruins.

CHAPTER XVI.

WATER.

The peculiarly enlivening effect of a body of
water, in Garden scenery, has been spoken of in a
previous part of this work. Owing to the dry sum-
mers which prevail in America, however, there are
comparatively few places where a uniform supply
of water can be kept up all the year round. But
there are many, notwithstanding, when, by the
exercise of a little ingenuity, the improver may
provide a Pond, or little Lake, which will obtain
its supply of water from a never-failing spring in
the neighborhood, and may thus be as well filled
in summer as in winter. Ponds may also be
formed, by damming up the course of a creek or
branch, which will afibrd a steady supply. A stream

of water sometimes runs through the grounds. If

(140)

WATER. 141

such is the case, its banks must be beautified by
plantation, and its course changed or altered, when
necessary, to make it conform more strictly to the
general aspect. When it is necessary to dig a
channel for a Brook, it should not be dug deep,
as the water will soon make it deeper. In lay-
ing out or forming a Pond (as every piece of
standing water in garden scenery is called in this
country), the first thing necessary is to ascertain
the exact water level, which, being marked, will
then become the basis of all future operations.
The bed of the pond is then formed. The sides
should be sloping toward the middle, and not abrupt
or perpendicular, to prevent accidents, from people
or cattle falling in. The shores should be com-
posed of strong or firm ground, to resist, as much
as possible, the pressure of the water. The bottom
should be water-tight, if possible, in order that as
little as may be of the contents be lost by leakage.
On low ground, which is naturally moist, and does
not therefore, absorb much water, there is not much
difficulty about this. Where it is otherwise, it is
often necessary to have the entire bottom laid
with cement. To prevent the sides of a pond

142 PRACTICAL LAJSTDSCAPE GARDENING.

from being waslied away, or destroyed by freshets,
a channel, or overflow, to lead off the surplus
•water, must be constructed. Care must be taken
to have this sufficiently strong and capacious for
any emergency.

CHAPTER XVII.

ROCKWOEK.

Two different modes of formiug rockworh, are
practiced by gardeners. One, by arranging stones
or rocks, in such shapes and heaps as will be
agreeable to the eye, leaving room between them
for the growth of Ferns, Climbers, and other plants,
which naturally flourish among rocks. The other,
by imitation of dropstones or stalactite, by which
mode many picturesque objects, such as grottoes,
arcades, seats, etc., may be readily formed. Much
experience in the matter is requisite for the con-
struction of a nice piece of Eockwork, but if taste-
fully and appropriately arranged it is a great orna-
ment to a Landscape. To construct a Eock-scene
of the description first named — say for a water-
fall, or to place on the shore of a pond — the first
requisite is to provide a foundation so secure that
there will be no danger of its being undermined by

(' 143 )

144 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

water. Upon this the stones are placed in the
manner and to the hight required. All appear-
ance of regularity must be avoided in their arrange-
ment, and the grain of the stone should, if pos-
sible, be kept uniformly one way — either perpen-
dicular or horizontal. The largest pieces obtain-
able only should be used, and where no large
stones can be got, several smaller ones should be
united into one by mortar, which will, at a dis-
tance, give them the appearance of one large mass.
In the cracks or fissures left between the large
masses we then plant Evergreens, Kalmias, Rhodo-
dendrons, Ivy, Virginia-creepers, Honeysuckles, Ferns,
or other plants, which will give it the natural
appearance of wildness, which all rockwork must
possess.

In planting, as in placing the rocks, care must
be taken to make them stand out in spirited,
picturesque forms. Where such rockwork is desired,
a single large specimen should not be left alone,
but surrounded, at various distances, by rocks and
stones, strewn round in different shapes ; these
smaller, detached masses, then, seem naturally to
lead to the main piece.

ROCKWOKK. 145

When it is possible so to place the rockwork
as to direct the course of a little brook across
it, letting its waters fall, surging and foaming,
into a basin or pond below, the effect of the entire
scene, it need not be said, will be highly pic-
turesque and stirring. As solitude seems the most
appropriate for such a place, plantations of Ever-
greens seem, and are, peculiarly proper to surround
it with.

To form the last-mentioned species of rockworh,

it is necessary to possess some knowledge of the

mason's and bricklayer's business, as the tools and

materials of those trades must be used. It is

well known that many beautiful shapes of the

Dropstone or Stalactite are met with in caverns

and subterranean galleries ; and, also, that they are

formed by the continual dropping of water, which,

leaving a deposit, gradually and slowly builds up a

pillar, or a grotto, or a series of such and other more

fantastic shapes. Great masses of stalactites are also

found on the surface of the earth, in different parts

of the s'lobe. It is these creations of accident

that we seek to imitate. The foundations of the

work must bo stone. The stones are arranged
13

146 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENmG.

roughly, yet solidly laid in mortar, and in such
shajies, bold and in high-relief, as we see in stalac-
tite or dropstone formations generally. After the
rough mass has thus risen under the hand of the
gardener, he gives it a farther degree of finish by
carefully hiding the points and connecting links of
the stones composing the whole mass ; thus giving
it the appearance of an entire body of stone, jut-
ting out irregularly in various fantastic shapes and
forms. This is done with a mortar composed in
part of Hydraulic cement.

Smaller crevices are left, here and there, in
which to plant various Shrubs and Creepers, wdiieh
will afterward aid in giving it a finished or natural
appearance. These crevices and fissures, however,
must be so arranged, with the help of the mortar,
as to seem to occur naturally in the body of the
rock, the joints between individual stones, in such
places, being carefully hidden. This done, the mass
is ready for the final operation of covering the,
as yet, bare stones with several coatings of Hydraulic
cement, which will give it the appearance of hav-
ing been formed by the operations of nature. The
cement should be of good quality, and must be

ROCKWORK. 14:7

■well mixed in water with an equal quantity of
sand. It is applied with a broom or brush, the
first coat being quite thin, the succeeding two
thicker.

Where it is desired to imitate certain tints of
dropstone, such may be done by mixing in a lit-
tle lampblack or ground ochre. The sprinkling
with the broom or brush will give to it, when
hardened, that rough, irregular appearance which is
peculiar to stalactitic formations. This kind of
work is peculiarly applicable to the construction
of grottoes, which are so refreshingly cool during
the heats of summer; they may also be made a
cheap and pleasant substitute for the ugly square
spring-house, which so often disfigures pleasure-
grounds in this country. The edges or shore of
a Pond, and the interior of a Greenhouse, when
ornamented in this way, may be made to present
a peculiarly picturesque appearance, which can be
produced in no other way. Eustic seats are also
very cheaply and easily constructed in this manner.

The making of rockworh has been but very lit-
tle practiced in this country, and is often under-
taken by men of but little taste, and less experi-

148 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ence. Tliis -will account for the many ridiculous
and tasteless specimens of the work, to be met
with in different parts of the country, and which
have caused many men of true taste to condemn
the whole art.

CHAPTER XVIII.

A PLAN,

Is made to represent, on paper, and in little
compass, the form, shape, and extent of improve-
ments suggested for a certain place. In doing
this, the general outline of the ground or place,
with every object thought necessary to introduce
upon the face of the Plan, as buildings, the spaces
occupied by trees, etc. etc., must be laid down
according to a certain scale or proportion adopted,
and thus the whole Plan is made a faithful rep-
resentation of a scries of objects.

It is necessary that the maker of a Plan should
have a thorough acquaintance with the peculiari-
ties of the grounds to which it is to be applied.
He must compare and combine, as far as possi-
ble, the wishes of the proprietor with the dictates

of good taste, and adapt the result, as much aa

(149)

150 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

practicable, to tlie conformation of the grounds to
be improved. Thus, in marking out his future
groups, he has not only to consider their shapes,
but must also be able to foresee what species of
shrubs and trees will have the best eSect in dif-
ferent places.

Again, in laying down on paper the lines of
his intended Eoads and Walks, he must not confine
himself to describing charming curves and sweeps
upon the paper — he must aim to lead the walks
and roads by these sweeps, and through the finest
scenes upon the grounds. It is true, that on
naked and level spots, the plan may be made to
fit the grounds, or, vke versa, the grounds to fit
the plan, to a certain degree. But on places hav-
ing any natural advantages, when the ground is
broken or perhaps hilly, the plans of the improver,
or gardener, must be greatly modified by the pre-
vailing advantages or disadvantages of the place ;
and the drawing of an exact plan ceases to be
a possibility.

Plans are either ivorTdng or profile Plans. On
the first-named, various lines, to exhibit the inside
and outside views, are marked, showing the space

A PLAN. 151

to be filled by Plantation — that devoted to LaAvn,
etc. The dimensions of each division and lino
are given, and trees and shrubbery numbered, their
names and numbers being afterward marked on
the margin for convenient reference. As this Plan
is made to direct the operations of the gardener,
it must contain all information needed by him in
the prosecution of his operations. The proprietor,
is furnished Avith a p'ofile 'plan, from which he
should be able to gather the fullest and most
explicit information concerning his grounds in their
improved state. This last should be finished in
a better style than the toorking plan, a.s it will
serve as a constant reference chart, for the pro-
prietor.

CHAPTER XIX.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS USED IN LANDSCAPE GAR-
DENING.

" KOinNA BI NESCIS COGNITIO RERUM PEUHT."

It lias been thought proi^cr to introduce a List
of Trees and Shrubs, generally used in Landscape
Gardening, for the ornamentation of the scenery.
A great many of the choicest forest trees, are
native trees of North America, which justly can
boast of the noble trees composing its Sylva. The
trees are introduced according to the natural order
of Families, as followed in the excellent work on
"Trees and Shrubs of Massachusetts."

The Shrubbery is arranged as being Climbers,

Peat or Bog-earth Plants, and the Finer Flowering,

Ornamental Shruhs. The limits of this volume will

not allow us to give especial descriptions of the

various trees and shrubs.
( 152 )

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 153

CoNiFERJi;. Evergreens.

PiNUS. Pine.

Pinus Strobus. White Pine.

" rigida. Pitch Pine.

" resinosa. Norway Pine.

" mitis. Yellow Pine.

" inops. Jersey Pine.

" pungens. Mountain Pine.

" tieda. Loblolly Pine.

" serotina. Pond Pine.

" Lambertiana.

" Austriaca. Austrian Pine.

" Cembra.

" Laricio. Corsican Pine.

" sylvestris. Scottish Pine.

" pinea. Stone Pine.

" pinaster. Cluster Pine.

Abies. Spruce.

Abies Canadensis. Hemlock Spruce.

" nigra. Doiible or Black Spruce.

" alba. White Spruce.

" cscelsa. Norway Spruce.

PiCEA. Pir.

Picea balsamifera. Balsam Fir.

" Fraseri. Double Balsam Fir.

" argentea. European Silver Fir.

154 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Cedrus. Cedar.

Cedrus Libani. Cedar of Lebanon.
" Deodora. Indian Cedar.

JuNiPERTJS. Juniper.

Juniperus communis. Juniper.
" Virginiana. Red Cedar.

" sabina. Savin.

Thuja. Arbor-vitge.

Thuja occidentalis. American Arbor-vitae.
" orientalis. Chinese Arbor-vitas.
" pendula.
" nepalensis.
" Tartarica. Tartarian Arbor-vitae.

CuPRESSus. Cypress. Cedar.
Cupressus thyoides. White Cedar.

Taxus. Yew.

Taxua Canadensis. American Yew.
" baccata. English Yctv.
" Hibernica. Irish Yew.

Larix. Larch.

Larix Americana. Hackmatack.
" Europea. European Larch.

Taxodium Distichum. x^merican Cypress,

LIST OF TllEES AND SHRUBS. 155

GiNKO BiLOBA. Salisbury Tree.

DECIDUOUS TREES,
CUPULIPER^.

QuERCTJS. Oak.

Quercus alba. White Oak.

" bicolor. Swamp White Oak.

" castanea. Chestnut Oak.

" tinctoria. Black Oak.

" coccinea. Scarlet Oak.

" rubra. Red Oak.

" macrocarpa. Over-cup White Oak.

«' virens. Live Oak.

" palustris. Pine Oak.

" prinus monticola. Rock Chestnut Oak.

" robur. English Royal Oak.

" cerris. Turkey Oak.

" suber. Cork Oak.

«« Ilex. Holly Oak.

Fagus. Beech.

Fagus sylvatica. European Beech.
«• «' var. Americana. American Beech.

" atropurpurea. Blood Beech.
" pendula. Drooping Beech.

Castanea. Chestnut.
Castanea vesca.

156 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENIlSra.

CORYLUS. Hazel.

Corylus Americana.

" Colurna. Constantinople HazeL

Carpinus. Hornbeam.
Carpinus Americana.
" Betulus.

OsTRYA. Hop Hornbeam.
Ostrya Virginica.

JUGLANDACE^.

JuGLANS. Walnut.

Juglans cinerea. Butternut.
" nigra. Black Walnut.
" regia. English Walnut.

Carya. Hickory.

Carya alba. Shellbark Hickory.

" tomentosa. Mockernut Hickory.
" amara. Butternut Hickory.
" oliviBformis. Pecan Nut.
" porcina. Pignut Hickory.

Betulace^.

Betula. Birch,

Betula lenta. Black Birch — Sweet Birch.

" excelsa. Yelloiv Birch.

" populifolia. White Birch.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 157

Betula nigra. Red Birch.

" papyracea. Canoe Bircli.

" alba. European Wliite Birch.

" " pendula. Drooping Birch.

Alnus. Alder.

Alnus serrulata. Common Black Alder,

" incana. Speckled Alder.

" glutinosa. Common Alder.

" laciniata. Cut-leaved Alder.

Platanace^.

Platanus. Plane-tree.

Platanus occidentalis. Buttonwood-tree (often called
Sycamore tree.)
" orientalis. Oriental Plane-tree.

Salicine^.

PopuLus. Poplar.

Populus grandidentata. Large Poplar.

" tremuloides. American Aspen.

" candicans. Balm of Gilead.

" Balsamifera. Balsam Poplar

" argentea. Cotton-tree.

" Canadensis. Cottonwood.

" angulata. Carolina Poplar.

" nigra. Black European Poplar.
" " dilatata. Lombardy Poplar.

158 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Salix. Willow.

Salix alba. White WilloTV.

" vitellina. Golden Willow.

" Babylonica. Weeping Willow.

" Russelliana. Bedford Willow,

" caprea. Flowering Willow.

" decipiens. Varnished Willow.

" cordata. Heart-leaved Willow.

" fragilis. Crack Willow.

Artocarpe^.

MoRus. Mulberry,

Morus alba. White Mulberry.

" nigra. Black European Mulberry,
" rubra. Red American Mulberry.

Broussonetia. Paper Mulberry-tree.
Broussonetia papyrifera. "^

Maclura. Osage Orange.
Madura Aurantiaca.

Ulmace^.

TJlmus. Elm.

Ulmus Americana. White Elm.

" fulva. Slippery Elm.

" alata. Wahoe Elm.

" campestris. European Elm, English Elm.
" '* virens. Kidbrook Elm.

" " suberosa. Cork-barked Elm.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 159

Ulmus montana. Scottish Elm.

" " fastigiata. Spire-topped Elm.

" " pendula. Weeping Elm.

Celtis. Nettle-tree.

Celtis Occidentalis. American Nettle-tree.
♦' crassifolia. Hackberry,

Planera Ulmifolia. Planer-tree.
Planera Richardii. Zelkowa-tree.

LiQuiDAMBAR. Sweet Gum.
Liquidambar Styraciflua.

SANTALACEiE.

Nyssa. Pepperidge-tree, Tupelo. Sour Cxum-tree.
Nyssa multiiiora.

" grandidentulata. Large Tupelo.
" capitata. Sour Tupelo.

Laurine^.

Laurus Sassafras. (Sassafras Officinale) Sassafras-
tree.

Benzoin. Feverbush, Spicebush.
Benzoin odoriferum.

Oleace^.

Fraxinus. Asb.

Fraxinus acuminata. White Ash.

160 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Fraxiuus pubesceus. Red Asli.

sambucifolia. Black Ash.
viridis. Green Ash.
excelsior. European Ash.
pendula. Weeping Ash.
ornus. Flowering Ash.

Aquifoliace^.
Ilex. Holly.

Hex Opaca. American Holly.
" aquifolium. European Holly.

BlGNONIACE^.

Catalpa. Catalpa-tree.

Catalpa Syringifolia.

CORNACE^.

CoRNUS. Cornel. Dogwood.

Cornus Alternifolia. Alternate-leaved Cornel.

" sericea. Silky Cornel.

" Florida. Flowering Dogwood.

" alba. Red Dogwood.

" mascula. Cornelian Cherry.

VlBURNE^.

ViBUKNUM. Guelder Rose.

Viburnuni lentago. Sweet Viburnum,
dentatum. Arrow-wood.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 161

Viburnum Opulus. Cranberry-tree.
" Lantana.

" Lantanoides. Hobble-bush.

Sambucus Canadensis. Common Elder.

Hamamelace^.

Hamamelis. Witch Hazel.
Hamamelis Virginica.

EOSACE^.

Ceat^gus. Thorn.

Cratsegus Coccinea. White Thorn.

" crus-galli. Cockspur Thorn.

" populifolia. Washington Thorn.

" oxyacantha. English Hawthorn.

Pyrus Commttnis. Pear.

Pyrus IMalus. Apple.

" Americana. American Mountain Ash.
" aucuparia. European Mountain Ash.
" Sorbus. Soi'b or Service-tree.
" Aria. White Beam.

Prunus. Plum.

Prunus Americana. Canada Plum. Yellow Plum,

" insititia. BuUace-tree.

" Padus.
14

162 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Amelanchiee Canadensis. Shop-bush.
" Pyracantha.

Cerasus. Cherry.

Cerasus Pennsylvanica. Northern Red Cherry.

" serotina* Black Cherry.

" sylvestris. European Wild Cherry.

EBENACEiE.

DiosPTRos. Persimmon-tree.
Dyospyros Virginiana.

Leguminos^.

EOBINIA. Locust.

Robinia Pseudo-acacia. Common Locust.
" viscosa. Pink-flovrering Locust.
" inermis.

G-LEDiTSCHiA. Honcj Locust.

Gleditschia Triacanthos. Three-thorned Acacia.

" horrida or Sinesis. Chinese Gleditschia.

Gymnocladus. Kentucky Coffee-tree.

Gymnocladus Canadensis.

ViRGiLiA Ltttea. Yellow-wood, Virgllia-trec.

Cercis. Judas-tree. Eed-bud.

Cercis Canadensis. Canada Judas-tree.
" siliquastrum. European Judas-tree.

list of trees and shrubs. 163

Ehamnace^.

Rhamnus. Buckthorn.

Rhamnus catharticus. Common Buckthorn.
" frangula.

Celastrace^.

Staphtlea. Bladder Nut.

Stapliylea trifolia. Tliree-leaTed Bladder Nut.
" pinnata.

^Esculace^.

-lEscuLus. Horse Chestnut.

jEscuIus Hippoc istanum. Horse Chestnut.
" rubicunda.

" glabra. Ohio Buckeye.

Pavia Eubra. Red Pavia.
Pavia lutea. Yellow Pavia.

Acerace^.

Acer. Maple.

Acer rubrum. Red Maple.
" dasjcarpum. White Maple.
" saccharinum. Sugar Maple. Rock Maple.
" striatum. Striped Maple.
" Negundo. Ash-leaved Maple.
" pseudo-platanus. Sycamore-tree
" platanoides. Norway Maple.
" campestre. European Field Maple.
" macrophyllura.

164 practical landscape gardening.

Anacardiace^.

Ehus. Sumach.

Rhus typhina. Stag's Horn Sumach.
" glabra. Smooth Sumach.
" cotinus. Smoke- tree.

Xanthoxylace^.

Xanthoxylum. Prickly Ash.
Xanthoxylum Americanum.

AiLANTHus Glandulosa. Trcc of Heaven.

TlLIACE^.

TiLiA. Lime-tree. Linden-tree,
Tilia Americana. American Lime-tree.
*• alba. White Lime-tree.
" pubescens. Downy Lime-tree.
" Europea. European Lime-tree.

Magnoliace^.

Ltriodendron. Tulip-tree.
Lyriodendron tulipifera.

Magnolia. Magnolia-tree.

Magnolia acuminata. Cucumber-tree.

" grandiflora. Evergreen Magnolia.
" tripetala. Umbrella Magnolia.
" macrophylla.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 165

Magnolia cordata.
" purpurea.

.SCROPHULARIACEiE.

Paulownia Imperialis. Paulownia.

CLIMBING SHRUBS

Glycine Frutescens.
Glycine Chinensis.

BiGNONiA (Iecoma) Crucigera.

Bignonia grandiflora. Trumpet Flower.
'• radicans.

Hedera Helix. Ivy.
Hedera quinquefolia.

Aristolochia Sipho. Birthworth. Dutchman's Pipe.

Periploca GrRJECA. Silk Vine.
Lonicera (Caprifolium) Peryclemenum. Woodbine.
Lonicera sempervirens. Evergreen Honeysuckle.

" flexuosum. Chinese Honeysuckle.

" flava. Yellow Honeysuckle.

" Belgica.

Clematis. Virgin's Bower.

Clematis viticella.

" ccerulea.

" crispa

166 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Clematis Florida.
" flammula.

" Seiboldii.

Amelopsis Hederacea. Virginia Creeper.

Menispermum Canadense. Canada Moonseed.

Celastrus Scandens. Climbing Staff-tree.

FINE-FLOWERING SHRUBBERY.
Amorpha Fruticosa.
Amorpha fragrans.
" glabra.

Amyqdalus. Almond.

Amygdalus communis. Double.
" incana.

AucuBA Japonica. Japan Gold-dust-tree.

Berberis. Barberry.
Berberis vulgaris.
" atropurpurea.

" Chinensia.

Buxus. Box-tree.
Buxus sempervirens.

Caltcanthus Ferax. Sweet-scented Shrub.
Calycanthus Florida.

Ceanothus Americana. Jersey Tea.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 167

Cephalanthus Occidentalis. Button-bush.

COLUTEA ArbOKESCENS.

Colutea orien talis.
CORCHOKUS JapONICA.
CORIARIA MyRTIFOLIA.

COTONEASTER ACUMINATA.
Cotoneaster melanocarpa.

Cydonia. Quince.
Cydonia Sinensis.

Cytisus Alpinus.
Cytisus Laburnum.
" purpureus.

Deutzia Canescens.
Deutzia scabra.

DiRCA Palustris. Leather-wood.

El^agnus Angustifolia. Bohemian Olive.
Elseagnus argentea.

EuoNiMUS Americana. Indian Arrow.
Euonimus EuropEeus.
" Japonicus.

Genista Germanica.
Genista tinctoria.

Hyppopii^. Eitamnoides.

168 practical landscape gardening.

Hibiscus Steiacus.

Hydkaxgea Arborescexs
Hydrangea horteusis.

LiGusTRiTM VuLGARE. Prim. Privet.

LoNiCERA Tartarica. Tartarian Honeysuckle.

Myrica Gale. Sweet Gale.

Philadelphus Coroxarius. Jasmin. Syringa.

Pliiladelphus cordifolius.
" grandiflorus.

Pyrus Japoxica.
Pyrus indica.
" torminalia

" nivalis

RiBES Atropurpureum. Currant.
Ribes aureum.
" palmatum.
" Gordonianum.

EuBUS Fruticosus.
Rubus odoratus.

Sophora Japoxica.
Sopbora pendula.

SPIR,5LA. LaxCEOLATA.
Spiraea corymbosa.
" rotiindifolia.

LIST 0¥ TREES AND SHRUBS. 169

Spirtea prunifolia.
" ulmifolia.

Symphoeicarpus Mexicana. SnowLcrry.

Tamakix Gallica.
Tamarix Gerinanica.

Syrixga Tulgakis. Lilac.
Syringa Chinensis.
" Persica.

SHRUBS REQUIRING TEAT OR BOG-EARTH.
Azalea Glauca.

Azalea nudiflora.
" pontica,

Andromeda Acuminata.
Andromeda polifolia.

Kalmia, American Laurel.

Kalmia latifolia.

" angustifolia.

" rubra.

" glauca.

Ledum. Labrador Tea.
Ledum latifolium.
" suaveoleus.

Prinos. "Winterberry.
Prinos glaber. Tackberry.
" verticillatus.
" Iscvigatus.

15

170 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Rhododendrox. Eose-bay.

Rhododendron ponticum.

" maximum. American Rose-baj

" viscosum.

" Caucasicum.

'♦ macrocarpum.

PART II.

ORNAMENTAL IMPROVEMENTS.

CHAPTER XX.

IMPROVEMENTS

Improvements of ground are of various kinds,
according to tlie use intended to be made of the
place to be improved. Thus the farmer " im-
proves" his place by cutting down the groAvth of
centuries, to make room for his fields of Avheat
and corn, and, to his eyes, a flourishing field of
grain is an object for especial admiration.

The market-gardener delio-hts in seeing high
piles of manure — and a prosperous cabbage-patch
is, to him, a fit subject upon which to expatiate.
The cattle grazer dwells with pleasure upon im-
mense tracts of pasture ; and the city-bred land
speculator views a tract of land only in reference

to its eligibility for " building-sites."

( in )

172 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

The Landscape Gardener's view, however, par-
takes partly of all these, and his aim, in "improv-
ing," is to unite, as far as possible, three great
requisites : heauty, comfort, and jprofit

In his contemplated improvement, the propri-
etor has, of course, the choice between the different
styles of laying out grounds ; the ancient Geomet-
rical style, and the more modern, called "Land-
scape Gardening." He may adopt either, but should
never allow himself to make up a mixture of both
styles, as he can do naught thereby but create con-
fusion.

As before said, an improvement should be the
result only of mature consideration, and its details,
previous to execution, should be carefully examined
in all their bearings upon, and relations to, the
peculiarities of the grounds to be improved to the
wishes of the proprietor; and last, but not least,
to the amount of money he wishes to expend.

The professional Landscape Gardener, when con-
sulted upon a contemplated improvement, must lay
aside all individual prejudices in favor of this or
that peculiarity. His business is to advance, as
far as may be, the principles of true taste in his

IMPROVEMENTS. 173

art, and to apply these, as well as lie can, to the
wislies of the proprietor. He should not obsti-
nately insist upon a particular Plan, but must
remember that his plan must be made to fit to
the ground — and not the ground to the plan.

The employer, on the other hand, should not be
too ready to take advice of other persons. Differ-
ent persons take different views of the same mat-
ter, each looking from his own narrow point of
view. Almost any one can suggest an alteration,
but only he who has studied the art, is able to
lay out an improvement. Neither is it right that
the employer should be too obstinately set upon
the carrying out of his own wishes. It is plain
that he who has made a subject the study of his
lifetime, must know more about it than he who
has scarcely given it a thought. Obstinacy in
adhering to peculiar notions, is one of the great-
est difficulties in the way of the " professional gar-
dener."

Property may often be highly improved, and its
cash value largely increased, at comparatively small
expense, provided the improvements be carried into
effect under the direction of a man of taste;

174 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENESiG.

otherwise, it is liiglily probaUe- tliat tlie most costly
and elaborate operations will but excite disgust,
after the first charm of novelty has worn off.
There is, however, in this country, a tendency to
lavish large sums of money on splendid mansions,
while the grounds surrounding such are left in a
wretched state of neglect. A man erects a dwell-
ing at an expense of several thousand dollars, but
thinks it an outrageous imposition if asked to lay
out some hundreds in improving and ornamenting
the surrounding grounds, setting out shade trees,
etc. It is evident that this is wrong policy, and
that both improvements should be carried on at
the same time, and to the same extent, in order
to maintain a harmony, without which there is no
beauty.

But let the improvements be as costly, and as
tastefully made, as may be, they will be of little
use without proper keeping. It is a matter of
much difficulty to make domestics and children
keep everything in such perfect order and regu-
larity as is necessary ; and Avithout perfect clean-
liness and order, the choicest patterns will soon
lose their impressive beauty, become indistinct, their

s*

, IMPROVEMENTS. 175

forms no longer strike the eye as "beautiful, and
soon all is confusion. It is necessary that the
proprietor should keep a watchful eye over his
household and dependents. Every breach against
perfect order and cleanliness of keeping, should be
strictly prevented. He should provide a place for
everything, and should then see that everything is
in its place, and nowhere else. The outhouses
should be as conveniently situated as possible, and
a regular and convenient drainage must be pro-
vided. It will be found universally true, that the
less trouble it is to be clean about a place, the cleaner
it will be kept. Let those interested bear this in
mind.

In regard to outbuildings, it may be well to
observe here, that when the style of architecture
of the main buildings is peculiar, it has a fine
effect to imitate it, to a certain extent, in the
smaller outbuildings — keeping up thus a harmony
or connection between the mansion and its depen-
dencies, which never fails to catch the attention,
and please ^ the mind as a suitable harmony of
parts.

CHAPTER XXI.

CITY LOTS.

If it were true, as many assert aud believe,
that a city building must, to be beautifully situ-
ated, be surrounded by a regular parterre or ter-
race, tbe Landscape Gardener would find no work
in the cities, and bis art would be confined to the
country. But the same taste, wliich demands a
stiff terrace, as tbe only tbing in perfect barmony
witb tbe straight and angular bouse walls of tbe
city, should, to be consistent, likewise clip and shear
of their fair proportions, the shade trees planted
on the streets, as they surely fail to harmonize
with the appearance of the house. But no one
thinks of asking that. The fact is, that parterres
and terraces are often introduced by a false taste,
or a lack of taste, in individuals, rather than from
a necessity existing therefor. The eye which has

(176)

CITY LOTS. 177

grown tired of a monotonous succession of liouses,
smoke and dust, will rest with delight upon a
group, however small, tastefully, and ahove all, natu-
rally disposed, among green turf. We are here
pleased not so much by the actual beauty of tho
group, as by the pleasing contrast, or change from
the monotonous succession of buildings, to a scene,
seemingly cut out of a smiling Landscape. Who
has not felt his breast filling with pleasurable sen-
sations, as, after rambling for hours through the
crowded streets of a city, he suddenly looks up
and sees rising before him a lofty tree, spreading
its huge branches over the surrounding dwellings?
who has not, on a hot summer's day, stood beneath
the shade of such a tree, and bared his brow to
the breezes whose abodes seem ever to be among
its branches — and who, on just such a day, has
not hurried in disgust past the bare and sun-
scorched terrace or parterre, enviously raised above
the level of the common sidewalk?

Let us have as many Garden-spots in our cities
as possible, for it is there they are most needed.
Many of the little spaces for garden-spots are,
to be sure, so small and confined that it would

178 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

be a vaiu attempt to give to them any natural
appearance. But in many others there is a chance
where the gardener may produce just such a little
natural scene, as would make an appropriate con-
trast to the masses of hrick and mortar. Yet in
nine cases out of ten, the ground is strictly leveled
and terraced up, the plants stuck do^Yn in straight
rows or circles, and we are called npon to admire
the "improvement." It is in accordance, too, with
this wretched taste, that the trees having the stiff-
est, most ungainly shapes, are most admired in
cities. The finest specimens of the Pine or Fir,
are pronounced shapeless, while the Eed Cedar, the
Arhor-vitffi, and the Juniper, when well trimmed,
and looking like brushwood pyramids, are pro-
nounced beautiful. Thus many little gardeu-spots
in the city, and also in the country, show naught
but straight rows and avenues of such trees, cov-
ering and concealing the most favorable aspects of
the house. Where such exist, the best thing to
do with the trees, is to place them in little groups
at the corners of the house, where they will add
somewhat to its appearance and importance. If
the house is such that it is not desirable that its

CITY LOTS. 179

front should be seen, it is better to conceal all
defects by Climbers and running Eoses.

To form a Natural scene before a bouse in the
city, a due proportion must be kept up between
tbe amount and liigbt of the plantation, and tbe
size of tbe ground. If unnaturally crowded, they
will not be fully supported by the ground, and if
too sparse, the place will look bald and bare.
Walks should be very highly finished, and should
strike the eye by their neatness, and the correct-
ness of their shape. None but the choicest and
most beautiful Flowers and Shrubs should be admit-
ted in such small Gardens as we find in cities, in
order that they may make up in quality, Avhat they
must lack in quantity. Such flowers as the Mag-
nolia Grandiflora, Eemontant and Bourbon Eoses,
and amoug Fine-flowering Shrubs, Spiraeas, Pyrus
Japonicas, Lilacs, and Honeysuckles, are suitable to
embellish city garden-spots. (For further descrip-
tions of Flowers and Shrubs, see under head of
Flower-Gaeden".)

Fig. 1, represents a City-lot, of ordinary size.
The house and back-building are easily distin-
guished, being of darker tint. The house is

180

PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

^ig- 1- supposed to stand elevated from

tlie street. The entrance pave-
ment, A, is divided into two equal
platforms by a flight of steps.
A pavement leads around the
house, and terminates at the
stable, in the rear of the lot.
The two squares, in the hack
lot, are intended to he grass-
plots. A few lofty trees may

be planted in them, to aff'ord shade and shelter to

the building.

To improve the empty square in front of the
building, two plans may be adopted. The one would
be, to raise a terrace in the same manner as the
entrance steps rise ; thus dividing the ground into
two platforms. On the upper platform a few
straight-growing Evergreen sentinels might be plant-
ed, to hide the greater part of the houso entirely
from sight, when full grown ; on the lower plat-
form some pretty Bushes or Flowers may be set out,
also, but by all means in a straight row. Adopt-
ing this plan, the proprietor follows the ordinary
fashion, prevailing in so many of our city Gar-

CITY LOTS. 181

dens. The improvement will thus be justified,
not by its tastefulness, but only as being a fac-
simile to the neighbors' lots.

The other, and, perhaps, more advisable plan
would be, to grade the ground to a concave shape,
gradually rising from the base of the fence to the
level of the upper pavement ; thus the square Av^ould
appear to be a bit of naturally undulating ground,
more liable to ]5lease the eye of taste. The ground-
plan. Fig. 1, shows the shrubbery and flowers con-
veniently lodged in appropriate situations. A Foun-
tain near the upper pavement, would be of good
effect. Around the pond some of the choicest
Flowers may find their places. A clump of Ever-
greens may, also, be placed before the corner of
the house, to conceal the back road from view ; a
group of Shrubbery and Flowers could be planted
around the two sides of the lot. The highest
plants should be set near the fence — gradually
diminishing in size. The margin of the group
should be enlivened with the brightest flowers, droop-
ing down on the velvet grass.

Arranged in such a manner, a city Garden, how-
ever small and cooped up, will form a pleasing

182

PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

foreground to the building, whose front can be
seen from the street, to the best advantage. By
the belt of Shrubbery surrounding its open sides,
it receives some degree of privacy, and the shrubs
and flowers composing the group, are seen to best
advantage from the front windows ; care should,
however, be taken to allow sufficient room for a
verdant Grass-plot, always to be kept in the most
polished style possible.

Fig. 2.

In Fig. 2, the
ground-plan of a
double house and
double lot is easily
recognized. The
breadth of the
main entrance walk, from the gate to the front-door,
should have due proportion to the size and im-
portance of the house ; if the front side of the
building is elegant, the main Walk should be broad
and conspicuous also ; if the building is a hum-
ble cottage, the main walk may be narrower.

From the main walk a Side-walk turns off to
the side entrance of each house. A back lot is
left to every house, in the rear of the lot. A

CITY LOTS. 183

border of turf is between the house and the side-
walks. The space for outward improvement being
very limited, only a bed for smaller flowers on
each side of the walk can be made. A belt of
shrubbery may surround the limits of the lot, the
taller shrubs being placed at the sides, to con-
ceal the back lot of each house. The part front-
ing the street should be composed of smaller, fine-
flowering Shrubs, and showy Flowers, which can thus
conveniently be seen from the windows of the house.
However narrow and small such a belt may be, it may
be so arranged as to appear like a natural group,
and not as a wreath, by boldly breaking its outlines.

In Fig. 3, a larger space of
ground is offered for improvement.
The dwelling is situated in the
middle of the lot ; in front, a lawn
has been laid oft'; the rear of the
lot is employed partly for a Kitch-
engarden, and partly for the stable
and back-buildings. Both kitchen-
garden and stable are concealed
from view, by groups of shrubbery,
planted before them.

Fig. 3.

184 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

The drive, on tlie right-hand side, is the ingress
carriage way, while the left-hand side-drive gives
free access from the gate to the stahle. The junc-
tion of both drives, at the corner of the building,
will afford room enough for turning the carriages,
without a circle before the house — often made for
that purpose. The groups situated on the front
lawn should be made up with the choicest of Shrub-
bery and Flowers ; the highest plants being placed
in the middle of the group, gradually coming down
till the smaller flowers close its margin. A belt
of higher Shrubbery is planted around the limits of
the lot, to give privacy to its interior. Some fine
specimens of trees or shrubs may occasionally be
placed before the groups, near to the walk, where
they may be seen to the best advantage.

A group of Evergreens, at the corner of the
building, as shown in figure 3, will appear to good
advantage. In the border surrounding the other
side of the house, Climbing plants may be planted,
to be trained on the wall, and to shade the porch,
on the back part of the building. A numerous
collection of plants can be cultivated in a small
garden, as shown in this figure.

CITY LOTS.

185

Fig. 4.

The design represented
in this figure, might con-
veniently he executed on
a square hlock in a city,
to suit the wishes of an
amateur of Flowers. The
dwelling, a, is situated in
one corner of the square ;
a conservatory, B, is huilt adjoining the house.

The ground is laid out in the ordinary flower-
garden style, having various regular Flower-heds,
in which a rich collection of flowers is to he cul-
tivated. Being situated between four public streets,
it will he necessary to surround the Garden with
a dense helt of shruhhory and trees. This belt
may be composed of various families of trees and
shrubs, arranged in such a manner as to produce
a pleasing variety of masses of foliage, differing
in higlit, shape and tints.

A Walk aftbrds a free circulation through the
ground, striking, in its course through the lawn,
a shady Bower, surrounded by the shrubbery of the
belt; it terminates at a back gate of the Garden.

The various kinds of flowers are arranged on the

IG

186 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

beds according to their families or colors, eacli sec-
tion of tlie Led consisting of but one family or
color.

Pine specimens of Evergreens and deciduous Shrubs
are growing on the lawn, where they may be seen
to most advantage, and have sufficient room to
attain their full size and beauty. The Gardenesque
Style, mentioned on a former page, will find its
suitableness to such gardens.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND,

Is the uaniG given to that part of the grounds
more immediately surrounding the mansion or dwell-
ing. Coming more directly and constantly under
the eye of the inhabitants and visitors, it is neces-
sary that this part should receive an especial degree
of culture and ornamentation, and that more than
common attention should be paid to its after keeping.

On places of small extent, the most appropri-
ate place for the Plcasure-Ground, and that where
it is usually found, is in front of the house, gen-
erally, on such places as are most open to public
view. In such cases, the back parts are devoted
to the Fruit and Vegetable-gardens. On places of
greater extent, and where the grounds adjoining
the mansion are immediately connected with park

or forest scenery, it is necessary to have a barrier

( 187 )

188 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

of some kind to keep cattle out of the Pleasure-
Ground. A sunk fence, or one of wire, not too
heavily constructed, and painted green, will be most
suitable for this purpose, as being least obtrusive
to the eye, and therefore presenting less obstruc-
tion to an extended and unbroken view.

On the Pleasure-Ground, the gardener lavishes
his choicest treasures of trees, flowers and shrub-
bery, making use of the most pleasing and tasteful
forms in their arrangement. To the ornaments
afforded him by nature, he may here also add,
without impropriety. Statues, Fountains, Vases, and
other works of art, suitable to place among gar-
den scenery. A graceful and correct, and above
all, harmonious disposition of the different parts,
in their bearings to each other, and to the dwell-
ing they surround and ornament, is then only
necessary to create a pleasing and perfect picture.

In laying out the Pleasure-Grounds, the gardener
or proprietor may use as he wishes, the plain and
natural Landscape style, or the more intricate, but
often no less pleasing Geometrical stjde. But,
whatever mode is adopted, it should be in keep-
ing with the building whose surrounding it is

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 189

intended to embellish, and above all, tlio entire
work should he consistent. One style should he
chosen, and adhered to throughout. Nothing looks
so poor and tasteless, as a mixture of the styles.
Thus, it is ridiculous to see parterres, and labo-
riously constructed geometrical flower-beds, placed in
the midst of a Lawn, or to see walks, in one
place straight and stiflP, in another, easy and flow-
ing; or Plantation, here disposed in regular shapes,
shaven and trimmed, in another place growing in
irregular, naturally-shaped groups or masses. Such
a confounding of styles is a grave error, but too
often met with in this country.

In calculating the expenses connected with a
Pleasure-Ground, it must be borne in mind that
keeping is as important a matter, as laying out.
The more tasteful and elaborate th§ design, the
greater will also be the trouble and expense of
keeping, and as cleanliness and order are the two
chief requisites to beauty in gardening, it is well
to think of this, in this country, where compara-
tively few working gardeners are kept. If the
improver has not leisure or means to spare to
have an elaborately-laid-out Pleasure-Ground kept

190 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

in perfect order and neatness, lie will do much
better to choose a style of embellisliment which,
though perhaps more simple, and to his taste less
beautiful, he will eventually find much more pleasing,
because easier to keep in order. In this country,
where labor is very dear, every design, however
beautiful or tasteful, must recommend itself chiefly
by the comparative ease • with which it may be
kept ; else, if carried out, as soon as it loses the
charm of novelty, it will become a tiresome, costly
burden, which will eventually only excite the dis-
gust of the proprietor. Many a pleasure-ground,
laid out in a costly and fanciful manner, we have
seen changed into a simple lawn, whose smooth
and pleasant turf gave much more pleasure than
had the intricate and laboriously-arranged flower-
beds and parterres. The improver should there-
fore aim to produce in his Pleasure-Ground, such
features of Natural scenery as, while sufficiently
showing the hand of art, will yet require but lit-
tle care or attention. Such are groups and masses
of lofty trees, which will, with comparatively little
expense, grow up, and improve from year to year
in beauty and shade. There is, to our taste, much

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 191

greater teauty in a verdant Lawn, enriched by
masses and groups of flowers, and diversified by
noble trees and shrubs, in whose shade rustic seats
and benches may invite to rest and repose, than
in all the fanciful gimcracks, and loretty things,
that some gardeners have in common with the
confectioner, and which are assuredly more in place
when decorating a cake, than when embellishing a
pleasure-ground.

The Pleasure-Ground should possess, if possible,
charms for all seasons of the year. The flowers,
shrubs and trees which bloom and bud earliest in
Spring, should be placed nearest the house, in order
to extend to its inhabitants as early as possible,
the cheering influences of Spring. The finest
masses of flowers and shrubbery should always be
placed where they may show to best advantage
from the windows. To enliven the scenery in win-
ter. Evergreens should be provided ; these also add
much to the beauty and comfort of the place in
summer. They should not, however, surround the
house at regular distances, like sentinels. Grouped
in natural forms, at the sides of the house, they
will create a fine effect ; and when the dwelling

h9
OQ

d

H
Q

O

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 193

Wliere this is clone, sufficient room must be allowed
for outside views, wliile unsightly objects are, as
much as possible, concealed; thus, the mud of
the street may be hid from sight by plantations
of Eoses, Jasmines, etc., as these would not con-
ceal from us the movements of passing objects.

The Kitchen-garden and Orchard should be sur-
rounded by Plantation; and all buildings belonging
to these departments, as the fruit and dry houses,
in the orchard, and the hotbeds, pits and green-
houses, in the Kitchen-garden, should be placed
near them. The Kitchen-garden should be, if pos-
sible, near the stables, for convenience in obtaining
manure. Greenhouses, where built in a tasteful
style of architecture, and thus assuming the char-
acter of conservatories, may properly make part of
the embellishments of the Pleasure-Ground. But
where they consist simply of square walls, with an
ugly, slanting glass roof, they can not be admit-
ted to form part of elegant scenery. Proprietors,
sometimes, spend considerable sums of money in the
erection and furnishing of a greenhouse, and of course
have a great desire to give it a conspicuous posi-
tion on their grounds, not for any beauty they
17

194 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

miglit fancy such an object to possess, but simply
to make evident to the passing world, that they
are rich enough to afford a luxury of that kind.
We need not say, that this is not an evidence of
taste. Many gardeners, too, of more experience in
growing plants and cultivating vegetables, than taste
in laying out grounds, naturally give an undue
importance to the "greenhouse," which has been
the scene of their most extensive operations. And
so the ignorance of the gardener combines with
the vanity of the proprietor, in destroying the har-
mony and beauty which should be the main points
in a Pleasure-Ground.

Where the distance from the dwelling to the
highway or street is insufficient to admit of a wind-
ing approach, a straight road from the gate to the
front door, with, if needed, a circle, for a turn for
carriages, is the simplest way. To construct this,
no gardener is needed, as any common day-laborer
can do it as well, and cheaper.

Where a gardener is employed to do a plain
job of this kind, if a man of little taste, as but
too often happens, he invariably thinks it neces-
sary to introduce some little fanciful additions of

THE PLEASUKE-G ROUND.

195

his own, by the aid of which he generally suc-
ceeds, if permitted, in spoiling the ^yhole work.
Where simplicity is attempted, it should be duly car-
ried out ; where intricacy is desired, it can be had ;
but a grafting of one upon the other will never
succeed.

In Figure 5, the
house is situated be-
tween groups of flowers
and shrubbery. The
foot entrance of the
Garden is from one
street directly fronting
the ground. The car-
riage-way is from the
lower street ; it passes
on from the gate to
the front of the house,
and from there to the
stables, situated on the

A, House ; B, Fountain ; C, Stable-yard ;
back part Ot the pre- ^ Kitchen-garden ; E, Carriage-entrance ; F,
T) 1 • 1 xi Foot-entrance; G, Orchard.

mises. isehmd the

house, the outhouses are situated, in a group of

Shrubbery.

196 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

A group of shade-trees is planted at the back
corner of the house. A belt of trees and shruhs
conceals the boundary fence of the front place.

The Vegetable-garden is placed back of the
house, joining the stable-yard, and surrounded by
a belt of Shrubbery. The walk leading to the
Kitchen-garden, passes through a group of lofty
trees, which afford shade to the house.

Two groups of Flowers are in front of the
house; also a group of flowers on each side of
the house.

Passing the house, the approach road enters a
group of Evergreens, on its way to the stable-
yard ; fruit-trees are planted in the lawn.

The margin of the belt surrounding the front
Garden, should be composed of flowering Shrub-
bery and Flowers, united in bold, conspicuous masses ;
before some of the most prominent parts of the
groups single, choice specimen-plants may be set
between the grass, as shown in figure 5.

A Plan, as shown in figure 5, is easily accom-
modated to a place of one to three acres extent.

In Fig. 6, the Ground-plan of a Pleasure-Ground
and Kitchen-garden is represented.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 197

The house and stable are fronting the high-
way. On hoth sides of the house, an entrance is
One part of the Pleasure-Ground repre-

Fis. G.

allowed.

sents a scene of ever-
greens ; the other of
groups of Shruhhery
and Plowers.

In r, a pavilion will
find a convenient place.
In E, the orchard is
situated. The trees are
not planted in straight
rows, hut must form a
Grove. A few giant
forest trees are seen
on the lawn.

The Vegetahle-gar-
den is laid off in four
squares, having a cir-
cular flower-hed in its center. Every square is
surrounded by a border of Flowers — pyramid fruit-
trees stand at equal distances.

A Plan, as shown in this figure, is well adapted
to a place of two or three acres.

A, House ; B, Stable ; C, Kitchen-gar-
den ; D, Flower-lawn ; E, Orchard ; F,
raviUon.

198

PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

Fig. 7. The house is surrounded by a grove of
Forest trees ; the Carriage-road turns from the gate
to the left; at the right, the ground is falling,
making an approach road impossible. There are
Fig- 7. D three leading scenes to

be remarked in this
Plan: The Grove sur-
rounding the house ;
the Evergreen drive,
from the gate to the
house; and the Foot-
entrance walk, which
winds through a mass
of shrubbery and flow-
ers. The belt which
is to hide the fence,
may be composed of
taller trees and shrubs,

A, House; B, Grove of Forest trees; C, {^ those plaCCS whcre

Front-entrance ; D, Back-entrance ; E, Sta-
ble; F , Front lawn. no outside Yiew is

wished. In other places, where distant views are
desirable, smaller shrubs are selected. The Ever-
greens are grouped together to show to best effect.
The Shrubbery and Flowers, on the opposite side,

THE PLEASURE-GROUND.

199

Fis;. 8.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 201

have to be grouped closely, so as to conceal the
presence of two walks, when passing in one.

Fig. 8. The house is situated on a terrace, sur-
rounded by a parterre, with flower-beds ornamented
with Vases and Statues. Before the house, a large
front lawn extends to the gate. The Carriage-road
passes through a grove of lofty forest trees, which
are worthy to be preserved.

The upper part of the front lawn is ornamented
with Evergreens which are grouped in masses. The
Foot-entrance gate is in one corner of the place.
The Walk passes a temple or pavilion, and resting-
place, with seats shaded by the surrounding belt.
Before the pavilion a group of Shrubbery is planted,
to which masses of showy Flowers are joined, which
will be favorably seen from the terrace.

The dotted straight lines, are to show the finest
Views enjoyed from the house, the one being
directed to the pavilion, the other to the distance,
in the surrounding country. The Stable-yard is
concealed from view by a belt of shrubbery; being
near the main building, the outhouses may be
built near the stable.

202 PKACTICAL LAJSTDSCAPE GARDENING.

The M'alls of the terrace are covered -with Climb-
ing plants, planted in the four smaller groups.
The outside belt, planted in some places, is neces-
sary to give privacy to the place.

Fig. 9. In this Ground-plan it is attempted to
show three different scenes ; the first, is in front of the
mansion, being composed of groups of choice trees,
fine-flowering Shrubbery, and an abundance of
Flowers ; the second is a mass of Evergreens, screen-
ing the Vegetable-garden ; the third is composed
of lofty primitive forest trees, to which some dense
groups of trees and undergrowth have been added,
to conceal the junction of the walks.

The Vegetable-garden is conveniently situated on
one side of the place ; the walk leading to it has
a row of fruit-trees on each side. The Views to
the distant country are shown by three dotted lines.
The stable is surrounded with trees and shrubbery.

The groups in the front part of the place are
made up with fine-flowering Shrubbery and Flow-
ers, and contrasted by trees between them. The
main entrance is in front of the house, opposite
the fountain.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND.

203

Fiff. 9.

A, Main Lawn. E, A dense group of Shrubbery, in

B, Vegetable Garden. which the Outhouses may be con-

C, Flower Lawn. cealcd.

D, Groups of fine flowering Shnib- F, Grove of Forest Trees.

bery. G, Views to the distarvt country.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND.

Fis. 10.

205

-^^liTM^i

#1

A, House,

B, Parterre.

C, Stable.

D, Carriage-entrance.

E, Kitchen-gardon.

1, Korway Spmee. AVhite Spruce.

2, 'Wliite Pines and Arbor-vitae.

o, li-il Cedars. Hemlock Spruce in

front.
i, Balsam Fir and Picea Fraserii.

5, Austrian Pine. Yew.

6, Larches.

7, Crataegus. Almonds in front.

8, Group of Maples. Catalpa.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND. 207

Fig. 10. Tliis Plan is to represent two leading
scenes ; the one this side of the main carriage-
road, is made up of a rich collection of Evergreens ;
a Parterre of Flowers is in front of the house. The
other is composed of deciduous Trees, Shruhs, and
FloAvers. The various walks meet in a thicket
of trees and undergrowth, through which no second
walk should be visible.

A grove of Forest Trees stands in the back
part of the ground ; the Kitchen-garden is con-
cealed by a belt of plantation.

The trees to make up the Grove may be
selected from the families of the Maples, Poplars,
Ash, Elm, etc. The gi"oups composing the belt may
have higher trees, and undergrowths of Eedbud,
Dogwood, Hornbeam, etc. The Parterre, in front
of the house, should contain a rich supply of Bul-
bous plants for spring flowers and greenhouse
plants, as Verbenas, Heliotropes, Salvias, etc., for fall
flowers.

SEE EIG. 10.

9, Eoses. Verbenas in front. 13, Hyppophce. Bohemian Olive.

10, Mass of Eoses. Pseonias. Petunias. 14, Lilacs. Snowballs.

11, Jasmines. Deuzia. Salvia. 15, Lonicera. Sophora.

12, Tree Preonias.

208 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

The ground represented in Figure 11, might
naturally he divided into two Lawns, extending on
each side of the house. The Front-lawn is orna-
mented with the choicest Trees, Shruhs and Flowers ;
the back part, with the Pond, has more of the
picturesque.

The shores of the Pond should he made with
Eockwork, and planted out with Khododendrons,
Kalmias, Ferns, etc.; the helt, surrounding the pond,
should be composed of higher trees, to shade the
plants around the pond. A Summer-house or pavil-
ion may be placed near the pond, under the shade
of the belt. Several clumps of trees are planted
on one side of the pond ; they should be com-
posed of different kinds of trees, to contrast, in
shape and size, with one another. The Vegetable-
garden should be concealed from view by dense
masses of Shrubbery. The poultry-yard is sur-
rounded by a wdre fence, and groups of shrubbery.
Each group should be made up of one family of
plants — the Gardenesque style being adopted.

THE PLEASURE-GROUND.

209

FiK. 11.

A, Dwelling.

B, Conservatory.

C, Poultry-j'ard.

D, Stable.

E, Pond.

18

F, Kitchen-garden.

G, Orchard.
H, Out-houses.
I, Carriage-road.
■T, Distant Views.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

In introducing Flowers among garden scenery,
we may arrange and place them in two distinct
Fig. 12.

A Parterre of Flowers ; to be placed in front of the house or conserva-
tory. The center is iron trellis-worlt, overrun with Climbing plants. In
its place a Fountain may be adopter!, and would be of good eff.ct.

(211 )

212 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAF.DENING.

styles, either or both of which may be adopted,
according to the style or peculiar advantages of
the place to he ornamented.

By the Landscape-Gardener they are distributed
in suitable places, among the natural scenery, and
there help to enliven and diversify it. The dis-
position made of Flowers, by the Landscape Gar-
dener, it has been attempted to explain by the
plans and dh'ections for Pleasure-grounds, in a pre-
ceding part of this work. We therefore come
now, naturally, to tlie other style, where Flowers
are arranged in a spot or place, set apart espe-
cially for their cultivation — as the Flower-Garden,
or the Parterre. In the disposition of flowers,
here, the fancy or peculiar taste of the gardener
or improver has much wider sway, nevertheless, he
must allow himself to be guided by principles of
harmony and congruity, or general fitness.

The Parterre, placed, as it is, in front of the
mansion, or the consei'vatory, should partake, as
much as possible, of the character of the build-
ings to which it belongs, rather than to the sur-
rounding scenery. The Parterre may, and indeed
should be, ornamented with Fountains, Statues,

THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 213

Vases, and other artistic embellisliments, m keep-
ing with tlie style of the mansion, which will add
to the elegance of its appearance. Its keojiing
should always be above reproach, for cleanliness
and neatness. It must be laid out in symmetrical
and pleasing figures, such as may suggest them-
selves to the imagination of the improver or gar-
dener. The lines in these figures should be very
carefully and distinctly cut, and their regulai'ity
and symmetry of shape strictly preserved. None
but the choicest flowers and shrubs are admitted
into the Parterre, which is, indeed, the place where
the proprietor may be appropriately lavish of expense,
in procuring and introducing all that will tend
to add to richness of appearance.

A Parterre is peculiarly suitable, where a man-
sion is built upon a terrace. Indeed, in such a
situation, nothing else does so well. When the
dwelling, however, stands on a level with the sur-
rounding scenery, the introduction of a Parterre,
in place of Natural scenery, is a question of indi-
vidual taste, ruled, however, in some degree, by the
style of architecture of the house.

The Flower-Garden, of greater extent than the

214 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

parterre, jDartakes, however, greatly of its charac-
ter. It should be situated conveniently near the
house, and surrounded by a belt of Shrubbery.

Where a conservatory or greenhouse is kept, and
this joins the house, the Mower-Garden may appro-
priately join that. Many different Styles are adopted
in laying out Flower-Gardens. A regular, geo-
metrical design is often adopted, the beds being,
by that means, regularly divided by walks, which
renders access to them easy. The irregular method
produces meandering walks, and beds of no regu-
larity of shape or size. A third, and rather favor-
ite mode, is to lay out the various beds in such
shape as fancy or taste may suggest, in a smooth,
well-dressed lawn. Beside these Flower-beds, speci-
mens of fine Shrubs and smaller trees may be
placed irregularly upon the lawn, and will there
make a fine appearance. Many pleasing designs
for the Flower-Garden may be formed of Piockwork.

Flower-Gardens should be ornamented also with
Statues, Vases, Seats, etc. Fountains and Pavilions
also have a fine eft'ect. The various species and
varieties of Flowers should be collected in masses,
each Flower-bed having its own family, species, or

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

215

even its own color.
To mix tlie different
kinds of Flowers in-
discriminately, in all
the beds, will be pro-
ductive of naugbt but
confusion.

The skillful gar-
dener can 251'oducc
harmony and great
variety, by following
the same principle
here, that he would
adopt when grouping
his trees and shrubs,
to create a Natural
scenery. The end-
less variety of shape,
color and bight of
the plants, as well
as the difference in
their seasons for
blooming, must- be
taken into consider-

Fio-. 13.

A Flower-Garden, in the regular Geometri-
cal style. Tliis design would also be well
adapted for a ParteiTe, in front of an elegant
building. The numerous Flower-beds are sur-
rounded with turf The edges of the main
walks might be of Box-tree.

216 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ation, and it is best to bring those kinds near
each other, which, by their peculiar character, will
either create harmony or contrast. The Gardcn-
esque Style, which has already been mentioned, finds
its greatest appropriateness in the arrangement of
Mower-Gardens. In adapting it to this use, how-
ever, a very extensive and rich collection of Flow-
ers and Shrubs is necessary.

The Flower-Garden, if rightly laid out and
kept, will prove an unfailing source of jileasure to
the proprietor and the various members of his fam-
ily. In it they will see and study the most beau-
tiful exemplifications of Nature's wonderful works.
Kept as it should be, however, the care and keep-
ing required to bring out and perfect a constant
succession of flowers, will be found to be tolerably
expensive.

CHAPTER XXIV.

CULTURE OF FLOWERS.

No success need be expected in the cultivation
of Flowers, if the soil in which they are to grow,
be not of such quality as the plants require. The
most genial soil — that best fitted for all flowers —
is a rich loam, composed in part of sand, to make
it dry and loose. Dryness, looseness, and a suffi-
cient depth to enable it to resist the droughts of
summer, are the three principal requisites for the
soil of a Flower-garden. None but well-rotted ma-
nure should be aj)plied to Flower-beds. A supply
of the ingredients used in the composition of the
ground of Flower-beds, should be always near at
hand, for the use of the gardener.

The ground should be carefully spaded in spring

or fall. During summer, the plants must be kept

clear of weeds and the surface of the Flower-bed
19 (217)

218 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

stould be repeatedly lioed and stirred up. In the
dryest parts of summer, tlie tenderest Flowers should
be regularly watered.

The various Families and Species of Plants gen-
erally grown in Flower-gardens may, according to
their culture, be classed under three different heads:

1. Annuals.

2. Biennials and Perennials.

3. Greenhouse Plants, which are planted out
in the Garden during summer.

Anmmls. — The Annuals are sown in spring,
and flower and decay the same season. It is well
to sow some kinds in the hotbed, in early spring,
which are to be transplanted, afterward, into the
Garden. Others may be sown in March and April
in the Garden, in the beds where they are desired
to flourish. It is well to cover the seed with fine
leaf-mould, when sown in the Garden.

ANNUALS,

BEST ADAPTED FOR SOWING IN A HOT-BED.^'

Ageratvun Mexicanum. Blue Flowering Ageratum.
Asclepias curassavica. Orange Swallowwort.
Aster Chinensis. China Aster. Queen Margaret.

* Buist. " American Flower-Garden Directory."

CULTURE OF FLOWEKP. 219

Anagallis Phillipsii. Blue Pimpernel.

Balsamina horteusis. Balsam. Ladies' Slipper.

Browallia alata. Blue and -white Browallia.

Caccalia coccinea. Scarlet Cacalia. Venus' Paint-brush,

" sonchifolia. Orange Cacalia.
Calandrinia discolor,
Celosia cristata. Coxcomb.
Centaurea Americana. American Sultan.

" Buaveolens. Yellow Sweet Sultan,
Olarkia elegans. Elegant rose-colored Clarkia.

" pulcbella. Purple Clarkia.
Cleome grandiflora. Lilac Spider-plant.
Clintonia elegans. Elegant blue Clintonia,
Collinsia bicolor. Two-colored CoUinsia,
" heterophylla. Lilac and white.
Commelina ccelestis. Blue Flowering Commeline.
Dianthus Chinensis. China Pink.

Gomphrena globosa. Globe Amaranth. Bachelor's Button,
Hibiscus manihot. Yellow Hibiscus.

" Africanus major,
Helichrysum bracteatum. Yellow Everlasting.
Xeranthemum lucidum. " "

Lophospermum erubescens. Climber.

" scandens. "

Loasa latericia. Orange Red, "
Malope alba and grandiflora,
Mathiola annua. Ten weeks' Stock.
Maurandia Barklayana. Blue Flowering Climber,

220 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

Maurandia semperflorens. Pink Flowering Climlber.
Mesembrianthemtun glaciale. Frozen Plant.
" crystallinum. Ice Plant.

Mimosa pudica. Sensitive Plant.
Mimulus Wlieeleri. Monkey Flower.

" Smitliii.

" variegatus.

" cardinalis.

" roseus. The Mimulus grows best in wet places.
Petunia. An endless variety.
Portulaca splendens. Purple Purslane.

" Thellusonii. Red Purslane,
Scabiosa atropurpurea.
Schizanthus retusus and pinnatus.
Shortia Californica. Yellow Shortia.
Tagetes. Marygold.

Tropseolum atrosanguineum. Nasturtium.
Thunbergia alata. Climber.
" alba. ••

" curantiaca. "

Verbena candidissima. White.

" Mestonii. Scarlet.

'• Algerii. Rose, and other varieties.
Vinca rosea. Madagascar Periwinkle.

*' alba. White Periwinkle.
Zinnia elegans.

" coccinea.

" alba.

CULTURE OF FLOWERS. 221

ANNUALS,

WmCH ARE BEST SOWN IN THE GAEDEN,

Adonis moniata. Pheasant's Eye.
Amaranthus caudatus.

" hypocliondriacus. Prince's Feather.

" tricolor. Three-colored.

Brugmansia Wagmeria.
Centaurea Moschata.

" cretica.
Collinsia grandiflora. Blue Collins-flower.
Convolvulus minor. Blue Bind-weed.
Calliopsis bicolor. Fair Eye.
Collomia coccinea. Scarlet Flowered Collomia.
Delphinium Ajacis. Rocket Larkspur.

" consolida. Branching Larkspur

Euphorbia variegata.
Eschscholtzia crocea. Orange.
" Californica. Yellow.
Erysimum Peroffskyanum.
Gilia tricolor. Blooming all Summer.

capitata. " "

Achillaefolia. " "

Heliophila Arahoides. Blue Sunlove.
Hieraceum mutabilis. Changeable Hawkweed.
Helianthus Californicus. Dwarf Sunflower.
Iberis amara. Candytuft.
" umbellata.

222 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Iberis violacea.

" odorata.

" splendens.
Ipomsea quamoclit. Cypress Vine.
Lathyrus odoratus. Sweet Pea.
Loasa lateritia.
Lupinus. Many varieties.
Mirabilis Jalapa. Marvel of Peru.
Nemophila insignis and atomaria.
(Enotliera. Tree Primrose.
Papaver Marseillii. Double wliite Poppy.
Reseda odorata. Mignonette.
Tournefortia heliotropoides. Summer Heliotrope.
Viola tricolor. Pansy

THE BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS,
Are sown early in Spring, "but do not flower
until the second year. The Biennials decay after
flowering. The Perennials, once well established
in the ground, remain for many years, flowering
every year. The roots, taken up in the Fall
or Spring, can he divided ; the plants heing thus
easily propagated. They should he largely used
in the Flower Garden, being of great beauty,
and requiring but little attention.

CULTURE OV FLOWERS. 223

Wo shall name a few of the choicest kinds.

Agrostemma coroaaria. Rose Campion.
Adonis verualis. Yellow Aclouis.

AUhcea rosea. Hollyhock. Au endless variety of colors.

Aconitum. Wolfsbane. A great many ditferent species are culti-
vated in Gardens. Aconitum album, A. bicolor, A. Naj)ellug,
A. ocliroleucum, A. lycoctonum, A. versicolor, A. sinense
(Seiboldii), are very desirable kinds.

Anemone. Windflower. In Europe this genus of Flowers is highly
esteemed; in this country it does not flourish, owing to the
heat of the climate.

Antirrhinum. Snapdragon. There arc many varieties, of diiferent
colors ; the latest of which in the market, are of great
beauty. They are either perennial or biennial.

Aguilegia Canadensis, A. glandulosa, A. leptoceras, and others.

Alyssum maritimum, Alj'ssum saxatile.

Aster. Perennial Aster, Aster amelloides, A. bicolor, A. formosus,
A. grandiflorus, A. Novie-AngliiC, A Virginicus, and many
other species.

Asclepias. Many of the iiuest kinds are native plants of Amer-
ica. Asclepias incarnata, A. nivea, A. tuberosa, are worthy
a place in the Garden.

Bellis perennis (hortensis). Daisy. There are many double and
very large and beautiful varieties. They require a shady,
retired situation.

224 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Caltha palustris. Flore pleno. A well known, desirable border
plant.

Campanula. Contains many brilliant species: well adapted for
Gardens. Campanula gi'andiflora, C. Alpina, C. grandis,
C. glomerata plena, C. persicifolia, alba plena, and coerulea
plena, C. urticaefolia, and others. Campanula media, and
its varieties, are biennial.

Chrysanthemum indicum. Winter Aster. Has an almost endless
variety . of size, color and shape. There are many new
varieties of remarkable beauty.

Chelone. (Native of America.) C. barbata, C. pulchella, C. Mexi-
cana, and others.

Cheiranthus Cheri. The Garden Wallflower. There are many
fine varieties; they are not hardy, and therefore require
protection in Winter. Biennial.

Convallaria majalis. The red and double varieties are of peculiar
beauty.

Coreopsis delphinifolia, C. grandiflora, C. tenuifolia, C. tripteris.

Corydalis nobilis, C. spectabilis, C. formosa.

Dictamnus fraxinella, D. albus.

Dracocephalum Louisianum, D. superbum, D. grandiflorum.

Dianthus. Pink. Dianthus Barbatus, Sweet William, many superb
varieties exist of this species: D. plumarius, Double Pink,
many varieties ; D. cariophyllus ; from this species the Carna-
tion Pink and Picotee have been obtained ; D. Alpinus, D. for-

CULTURE OF FLOWERS. 225

inosus plena. D. grancliflorus, D. superbus, D. atropurpureus,
and others.

Dd^hlnium. Lai'kspur. D. grandiflorum, D. bicolor plena, D. si-
nense, and its varieties, D. hybridum, D. siboricum plena,
etc. They are very showy border-plants.

Digitalis. Foxglove. D. purpurea, and varieties, are the best.

Dodecatheon. Cowslip. D. media, D. elegans, D, gigantea striata.
Galardia picta. G. aristata.

Gentiana acaulis, G. macrophylla, G. asclepiadea, G. ochroleuca,
etc. Very showy plants.

Oeum coccineum, G. Japonicum.

Glycine Apios.

Hibiscus palustris, H. roseus, H. grandifiorus, etc.

Gypsophylla paniculata. G. repens, G. saxifraga.

Iris. Fleur-de-lis. I. arenaria, I. Apollon, I. Germanica, L cris-
tata, I. longiflora, I. pumila, and its varieties.

Linum perenne, Linum flavum.

Lychnis Alpina, L. chalcedonica, and varieties, L. coronata, L.
Flos-cuculi, L. fulgens.

Lythrum roseum superbum.

Mimulus, atrosanguineus, M. auranthiacus superbus, M. pictus,
M. moschatus.

Monarda didyma, M. hybrida, M. purpurea, M. Russelliana.

226 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

(Ehiothera acanlis, 0. fruticosa, 0. Fraseri.

Phlox. One of the finest families of Garden Flowers. There are
many species and sub-species -worth cultivation ; especially
the new sorts, which are of exquisite beauty.

Pentstemon. There are many very choice varieties cultivated ; many
of them are not hardy: P. ovatus, P. procerus, P. pubescens,
and others are hardy ; the other varieties have to be set
under glass in winter.

Pmonia. Is not surpassed by any other flower for showy effect:
P. albiflora, P. amabilis grandiflora, P. elegans, P. anemoni-
flora, P. ligulata, P. prolifera tricolor, P. triumphans, P.
edulis, P. officinalis.

Pceonia Moutan. Tree Pseonia.

Potmtilla atrosanguinea, P. decora plena, P. Demayi, P. Gardner
iana, P. Macnabina.

Primula. Primrose. An endless variety of sub-species have been
obtained. The Polianthes have been grown from Primula
elatior. Primula auricula has numerous varieties, generally
called Auricula. In this country the Auricula can not be
grown with success, as a hardy perennial, as it can in
Europe, owing to the great heat of summer.

Sedum Kamstkaticum, S. purpuratum.

Silene viscosa, S. alpestris, S. maritima plena.

Saponaria officinalis fl. pleno.

Saxifraga cordifolia, S. ligulata, S. granulata, S. sarmentosa.

CULTUKE OF FLOWERS. 227

SpiroM filipendula fl. pleno, S. Japonica, S. ulmaria fl. pleno.
Statice Echinus, S. exiuiia, S. latifolia, S. Pseudo-Armeria.
Trollius EuroiJteus, T. Asiaticus.

Veronica. Speedwell. V. geutiaudldes, V. dioica, V. saxatilis.
Valeriana phu., V. rubra, (Centranthus ruber.)
Tucca. Adam's needle. Y. flaccida, Y. filamentosa, Y. gloriosa.

THE BULBOUS PERENNIALS,

Are of great importance in tlie formation of a
Mower-garden. They contain many of the choicest
species of Flowers, as Hyacinths, Tulips, etc. Accord-
ing to their culture they may he classed into Two
families, viz: those taken up every year, and those
which may remain in the ground for years with-
out transplanting.

THE TENDER BULBOUS FLOWERS,

Are generally taken up every year, and are
as follows :

Amaryllis formosissima. Jacobea Lily. Planted in April ; flowers
end of May; taken up in fall, and preserved over winter in
dry sand, in a temperature above freezing.

Polyanthus tuberosa. Tuberose. Highly fragrant ; flowers pure
white. The roots may be started in a hotbed, in early spring,

228 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

or planted in the garden in April. If started in pots, it 'will
flower sooner and more luxuriantly.

Tigridia pavonia. Tiger Flower. Several varieties, differing in
color from yellow to bright crimson. Planted in April ; taken
up in October.

Gladiolus. Sword Lily. There are many varieties cultivated, of
this beautiful family : G. alatus, G. blandus, G. Cardinalis, G.
communis, G. floribundus, G. Psittacinus, are some of the choicest
species. The bulbs are planted in the garden at the end of
March, and taken up in the fall,

Lilium. Lily. Nearly all the varieties of this species are hardy,
and may remain in the ground for years. A few of the choicest
varieties are to be taken up in the fall, and kept in a warm
temperature over winter; such are L. eximeum, L. Brownii,
L. Japonicum, L. longifolium, L. lancifolium, with many sub-
varieties.

THE HAKDY BULBOUS FLOWERS.

Are generally taken np every three or four
years, to be divided and replanted ; the season to
plant them is fall or early winter.

The Crocus, flowers very early in spring ; there are many varieties,
differing only in color ; they require removal every three or
four years. They should be planted three inches deep, and, not
growing very rankly, may be set closely together.

CULTURE OF FLOAVERS. 229

Tulips. The tulip has long held an impoi'tant part in Floriculture.
In times past a tulip rage existed in Europe, and enormous
sums were paid for a single bulb of a favorite variety. They are
of great beauty, and have an endless variety of bright tints.
The flowers are either single or double. The bulbs are planted
in spaces six inches square by three or four inches deep.

Hyacinths. A most delightful flower, very fragrant, and displaying
an endless variety and beauty of coloring. They should be
planted four or five inches deep, and six or eight inches each
way.

Fritillaria imperialis. Crown Imperial, should be planted five or sis
inches deep, and twelve inches square.

Narcissus. A profusely growing bulb.

Jonquilles. Lilium candidum (White Lily) ; L. Tigrinum (Tiger
Lily), L. Martagon, L. chalcedonicum, are hardy varieties of
this beautiful family. They should be transplanted every three
or four years, and set out in trenches or holes four or five
inches deep by fifteen inches square.

The soil Lest adapted for tlie cultivation of
Bulbs, is a rich, well-manured, sandy loam ; it should
be carefully and very deeply spaded ; the beds must
be raised in the middle, to turn the water ; wet
soil is not suitable for bulbous plants. The bulbs
should not be taken out of the ground before the
leaves are fairly dry. " No imbricated or scaly

230 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

bulb, ought to be retained long out of the ground ;
if once lifted, tboy should be immediately re-
planted."*' No bulb should be planted with its
oflPsets ; these must be taken oft", and planted in a
bed by themselves.

DAHLIAS.

A "well-known, and highly esteemed genus, whose
flowers display an endless variety of color, shape
and size. For a showy flower, the Dahlia is un-
surpassed ; it is well worthy a place in the flower-
garden, though the droughts of our summers often
interfere with its growth. A moist and substan-
tial, rich soil is best adapted for its cultivation.
As it grows to the bight of from three to eight
feet the plants must be supported by sticks strong
enough to resist the wind. In case of drought,
it requires to be freely watered. The roots may
be planted out in the Garden in April ; it is best
to sprout them in a temperate bed, under glass,
and plant them out in May. It is easily pro-
pagated by dividing the roots ; every part planted

" Buist's " Flower-Gar den Directory."

CULTUKE OF FLOWEKS. 231

must, however, have at least one eye. It is also
easily propagated hy cuttings, started in a hothed ;
the sprouts are cut off when one or two inches long.
They must he cut very close to the old stock or
root. When planted in a moist, well-shaded hot-
ted, they strike root in a short time. In the
fall, after the frost has killed the stems and leaves,
the root is taken up, and stored away over win-
ter in a dry and temperate cellar or greenhouse.

THE ROSE,

Is SO well known as the choicest of all Flow-
ers, that it is useless for us to say anything in
its praise. Owing to high culture and continual
crossing of different species, thousands of varieties
and suh-species have heen obtained, differing greatly
in color, shape, and size.

The various kinds of Eoses may he . classed, in
regard to their manner of growth, as either Stand-
ards, Bushes, Eunners, or Climbing Eoses ; they
may he classed according to their season of flow-
ering, being either once-blooming, or ever-blooming :

The once-Uooming varieties are generally called Garden Roses. A
great many beautiful, yet older varieties are found among
them, as the Centi folia Rose, Provence (of the French), with

232 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

us generally called Cabbage-rose; the 3Ioss-rose, with all its
beautiful vai'ieties ; the clififerent species of Wldte Eoses, and
the different sorts of Yellow Eoses, as Harrisonii, Persian
Yellow, Sweet-Brier, and many other highly-esteemed sorts
are also once-blooming. By crossing many of these sorts
■with the Tea-scented, the Bourbon and the Noisette roses, a class
of flowers was obtained called Hybrid Garden or Hybrid
Chinese rose : they are of great value and beauty. A few
of this family are: George the Fourth (Rivers), Bnnnus,
General Lamarque, Eoi des Hybrides, Violet de Belyique, etc.
They are of luxuriant growth and foliage, blooming, how-
ever, but once a year.

The Climbing Once-bloonmig Eoses are of great value in garden-
ing, being very showy, and fast-growing. They comprise
the family of the French Boursault roses ; the Grevillia or Seven
Sisters ; the llultiflora ; the Prairie roses, of which ive only men-
tion the Queen of the prairies, and Baltimore Belle; and the Banksia
roses (better adapted to the greenhouse than the garden).

The Ever-blooming Eoses. They can not be called ever-blooming
in the fullest sense of the word, as many of them only
bloom in spring and fall, owing to the heat and drought
of summer. They are the most valuable sorts cultivated.
They are classed under various sub-families, as:

The Bengal, or Chinese Evefr-blocming Eose, R. semperflorens. They
are free-blooming all summer and fall, and of great beauty.
With a protection of straw or leaves, they stand the win-
ter out of doors. We mention, of their endless number of
varieties, only a few:

CULTURE OP FLOWERS. 233

The Fink Daily, and White Daily, are very free-blooming and
hardy.

The Lawrcnicana, smallest rose known, Purple Crown, Agrippina,
Louis Philippe, Ptoi de Crimoisis, Sanguinea, Fabler, Le Pac-
tole, Queen of Lombardy, etc., etc.

The Tea-scented Rose. Rosa odorata Indica. This family numbers
many varieties of great beauty. The Tearscented roses are
not very hardy, and require a good protection of straw or
leaves, in winter. They flourish best under glass. Some
of the choicest sorts are, Comte de Paris, Clara Silvain,
Belle Marguerite, Devoniensis, Eliza Sauvage, Saphrano, Mad-
ame Jaqueminot, Melville, La Sylphide, Lyonnaise, Triumph
of Luxemburg, etc.

Noisette Rose. Rosa Noisettiana. The Noisette roses are strong
and rapid-growers. Mr. Buist says of them : " The great
profusion and perpetual succession of flowers, from June till
November, of immense clusters, frequently from fifty to one
hundred in each, make them truly ornamental objects, and
are well calculated for covering fences, pillars, or trellis-
work." Aime Vibert, Bengal Lee, Cceur .Jaune, Cloth of
Gold, Fellenburg, Lamarque, Solfatare, etc., are some of the
choicest sorts of this family.

Bourbon Rose. ( Isle Bourbon. ) Rosa Borbonica. The Bourbon
roses are of great beauty, and value, they are free-growing
and free-blooming during summer and fall. The flowers
are in great clusters ; their foliage is large and luxuriant.
They are perfectly hardy. We mention a few of the choicest
kinds: Hermosa, Marshal de Villars, Bouquet de Flore, Du

20

234 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

petit Thouars, Gloire de Paris, Phoenix, Paul Joseph, Piin-
cesse Adelaide, Queen of the Bourbons, Souvenir de la Mal-
maison.

Perpdudle or Remontant Rose. Portland Rose, Rosa Bifera. The
Remontant Roses are justly called the finest of all roses.
They are perfectly hardy, fast-growing, and abundantly
blooming. They frequently stop blooming in the hottest
months of summer. In early summer and fall, they attain
their hight of beauty. Du Roi, St. Fiacre, De la Reine,
Comte de Paris, Due d' Aumale, Duchesse de Nemour, Baron
Brevost, Madame LafFay, Giant des Battailles, Cornet, Mare-
schal Soult, Prince Albert, and Louis Bonaparte, etc., are
some of the most desirable varieties.

The Eose can be raised in almost any kind of
soil; a deep, and substantial loam is best adapted
to its growth. The choicest ever-blooming kinds
should be x)lanted in rich and well-prepared ground.
The Tea-scented roses, especially, require a well-
manured and deeply-dug bed. The ground should
be sufficiently drained, either naturally or artifi-
cially— a surplus of moisture being destruction to
the plants, especially in winter. Those kinds re-
quiring protection in winter, may either be bent
down to the ground, and thus be covered with
litter or leaves, or they may be surrounded with

CULTURE OF FLOWERS. 235

straw or matting. Fall or spring is tlie most
favorable season to transplant tlie hardy kinds.
To Lave the Eose bloom in early spring, it is
advisable to take uj) some of the youngest and
healthiest plants in October or November, and to
transplant them in pots or cases. If they are kept
under glass, in a uniform tem2)erature above freez-
ing, they will generally be in bloom in March and
April.

The ground where roses are growing, should be
freely manured; this is most conveniently done in
the fall and winter, before spading the ground.

The Eose generally requires pruning every year;
being once well established in the ground, they will
soon become too strong and irregular for the neat
borders and beds of the Flower-Garden. In prun-
ing, it is recommended to leave a good supply of
young wood, which will produce the most flowers.
It is therefore necessary to take off some of the
oldest stems, in whose place new and strong shoots
will appear, promising an abundance of flowers for
the next year. It is also necessary to shorten the
largest shoots, according to the hight and space
the plant is desired to occupy. In this way the

236 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

plants can be trained to any shape and size de-
sired. Pruning may be done in winter, and early
spring.

The Garden Eoses frequently produce many suck-
ers, round the main plant ; these should be taken
up and planted by themselves. This is the most
common way of propagation for the hardy kinds.
Young shoots may also be bent to the ground,
and layered, by which they freely strike roots and
form new plants. Many of the Garden and run-
ning roses are easily propagated by cuttings, se-
lected from thrifty, well seasoned shoots, of one
year's growth, which are set in the ground in
early winter; it is well to protect the bed where
the cuttings are to grow, from the severest cold,
by a covering of litter, or which is better, by a
frame, covered with boards.

The Ever-blooming roses are propagated in vari-
ous ways, of which we shall mention only a few,
most generally followed by gardeners They may
be propagated by cuttings, taken from the old
wood, of one year's growth, and by cuttings of
the young and tender wood. Cuttings from the
old wood are made in fall and early winter. They

CULTUKE OF FLOWERS. 237

may be cut to tlie lengtli of from one to three
inches, having at least one eye. After taking off the
leaves, the cuttings are set in a bed of sand, or
sandy earth, in the greenhouse, or in a cold frame,
not exposed to the frost. The bed should be
kept constantly wet, sufficient air being also ad-
mitted. The cuttings will very soon be sufficiently
prepared to strike their roots. To make cuttings
from the young wood, it is necessary to transplant
some of the old plants in pots, in early fall; these
plants should be set in a temperate greenhouse,
where they will develop their new shoots in Feb-
ruary or March. About this time a hotbed should
be made, into which fine earth, to the depth of
four inches, is to be placed. The earth is cov-
ered with fine sand, to the depth of two inches,
and slightly beaten with the hand, to make it
solid. When the bed has arrived at its greatest
heat, the young and tender shoots are cut off from
the old plants, and planted in the sand. They
require to be freely watered, sufficient air also
being constantly admitted. The cuttings are sure
to strike roots in from six to fifteen days. This
is the best and most advisable way of propagat-

238 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ing tlie rose; by proj)er management, scarcely any
of tlie cuttings will be lost ; we have propagated
almost all sorts of roses, except tlie Moss-rose, in
the above manner. The young plants are set
out in the Garden in the beginning of May ; if
possible on a rainy day.

Budding is another manner of propagating the
various kinds of roses. It is the most usual way of
rearing them in the Gardens of Europe, yet little
practiced in this country. Budded roses are gen-
erally short-lived, and but little admired in this
section, at least with us, in the west ; they are
scarcely salable in the markets, unless a new and
rare variety. The Maiden's blush, the Dog Eose,
(Kosa canina) and the French Eglantine (Eglantier),
are most suitable for stock to bud on.

The limits of this volume will not allow us to
say more on the culture of the Eose, as practiced
to its greatest perfection, by many of our merchant
gardeners and Florists. We can mention but a few
of such flowers as properly belong to the Green-
house, they being only planted out during summer, to
ornament the Flower-Garden and the Parterre.

CULTURE OF FLOWERS. 239

It is to be rememborcd tliat this class of flowers
should not be set out before the warm weather of
early summer has set in, and the ground should
be prepared and enriched with rotten manure, pre-
vious to their removal from the greenhouse.

Abutilon striatum, A. Venosum.
Datura (Brukmansia) , bicolor, D. arbuscula.
Canna indica, C. gigantea, C. rubra.
Fudisia. Many varieties.
Gardenia raclicans.

Heliotropium Peruviauum, Hel. Voltarianum, Hel. Souvenir de
Liege.

Hydrangea hortensis.
Lantana aurantiaca.

" Sellowii, L. crocea, L. multiflora, L. nivea.
Loasa volubilis.
Lobelia erinoides.

erinus grandiflora, L. conipacta alba.
Nerium oleander fl. plcuo.

Pelargonium (geranium) , many varieties of the Scarlet geranium.
Pentstemon. ]\Iany varieties.
Plumbago capensis, P. coerulea.
Salvia patens.

" aziirea, S. floribunda, S. splendens.
Stem, Mexicana.

240 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

TropcBolum atrosanguineum, T. Lobbianum,

Verbena. An endless variety of colors.

Veronica speciosa.

Viburnum Tinus.

Volkameria Japonica fl. pleno.

CHAPTER XXV.

FRUIT-TREES — THE ORCHARD.

In no department of HusLandiy have greater
improvements been effected within the last ten
years, than in the raising of Orchard Fruits.
And thanks to the interest excited in the public
mind by numerous publications on the subject of
Fruit-growing, from the pens of different Gentle-
men, Scientific as well as Practical Experimenters,
America now boasts, and justly too, of having
originated varieties of our most common Fruits,
as Apples, Pears, Peaches, etc., equaling, and
surpassing any raised in the older Fruit-growing
countries of Europe. The able, and justly cele-
brated work of Mr. Daioning, on " The Fruit
Trees of America," by which their nomencla-
ture and knowledge were first fairly established,
21 (2J:l)

242 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

did ver}^ mucli toward exciting, among Country
Gentlemen and Farmers, a desire for a higher de-
gree of perfection in Orchard Fruits; and this has
been fostered and increased hy various publications
on the subject, and by Periodicals devoted to
this branch of Agriculture, among . the ablest of
which we will mention, the Horticulturist, published
by Mr. Barry, at Kochester, N. Y. ; the Ohio
Cultivator, by Mr. Bateham, Columbus, and the
late Horticultural Review, by Dr. Warder, at Cin-
cinnati.

Fruit-growing forms already, a very important
and highly remunerative branch of Agriculture,
and is every year spreading and increasing. In
the West, particularly, immense quantities of choice
Fruits are every year raised, and that part of
the United States bids fair soon to be the greatr
est Fruit-growing country the world has ever seen.
It is not the object of the writer of this work
to give lengthy details on this important branch.
Want of space would forbid it, were it even in
other respects desirable ; but the number and
ability of works, already before the public, treating

FEUIT-TREES — THE ORCHARD. 243

exclusively on this subject, would render such a
proceeding on our part supererogatory. We shall
therefore be content with giving in this place, a
few hints for the 'placing of Fruit-trees, with
the view of combining, so far as possible, the
two ends of Utility, and beauty of Appearance.
The ground intended for an Orchard, should
be thoroughly, and deeply broken up, to make
the soil as mellow as possible — poor soil being
at the same time well manured and fertilized.
The situation should be airy, the soil dry. Where
the ground is marshy, or wet, it can be improved
by drainage. Inclined situations, high and airy,
and having a good exposure to the sun, are espe-
cially preferable for Stone Fruits. The general
directions, given in another part of the work, for
Planting Trees, apply to setting out Fruit-trees.
The holes should be made abundantly large, and
the trees should be well watered, whenever the
weather is dry, during the first year after setting
out.

The most advantageous mode of settins out
Orchard Trees, is, doubtless, in straight lines.

244 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

But to connect tlie straight lines of an Orchard
with the highly improved surface, and beautifully
variegated shapes of a Pleasure-ground, without a
line of demarkation, would not he harmonious or
congruous. We therefore run a belt of Shrubbery
between the two, gradually changing, from Forest
Shrubbery to useful Shrubs, as Peaches, Quinces,
Kaspberries, Currants, and others; these being in-
termixed with lower Fruit-trees, and backed by
higher Fruit-trees ; the entire Plantation forming
a natural, easy transition from the Beautiful to
the Useful — from the Pleasure-ground to the
Orchard. Or, the Orchard may be planted in
groves, or natural groups, thus substituting Fruit-
trees for Forest-trees; thus we form groves of
Apple, Pear, Cherry, and Peach Trees, interwoven
with thickets of Quinces, Easpberries, etc. If de-
sirable, a group of Forest-trees, or ornamental
Shrubs, might be planted here and there, in the
midst of such a scene, adding variety to the picture,
and breaking' the stiff, regular top lines of the
Fruit-trees, which are nearly all of one hight. Such
scenery will not, of course, have the variety of hue

FRUIT-TIIEES THE OUCHARD. 245

and liiglit and form, wliich is so cliarming in
groves of Forest-trees ; but a skillful arrangement
of the different parts will make quite a fine scene.
Suck an arrangement of Fruit-trees, as tlie last
mentioned, lias the additional advantage, tliat it
does not interfere at all witk the growth of the
trees, leaving them sufficient room and light.
Where groves of Fruit-trees are planted, they may
be placed at convenient distances. Where it be-
comes necessary, for the preservation of harmony, to
plant the Trees close together (in thickets), we would
advise to plant Wild Apples and Wild Cherries,
which will be found to flourish in such situations,
and whose fruits are useful — -the first for Cider,
the latter to make excellent Preserves. We have
recommended (by plans), these Ornamental Orchards
to several gentlemen about to improve their grounds,
and they have expressed themselves highly gratified
at the result.

While upon this subject, we desire to say a
few words upon the Grape culture. Several va-
rieties of the Native Grape have, within a few
years, been found to make most excellent Wine.

246 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Wine-culture has already attained a higUy important
stand in the great Valley of the Ohio, and is
rapidly progressing. As an investment of capital,
the culture of the Vine, when followed upon
Scientific Principles, as it must be to succeed at
all, yields larger returns than almost any other
Agricultural Product.

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE FARM.

A FEW words on improyement, addressed more
especially to Farmers, will not be out of place in
this volume. The great majority of our farmers
are comparatively wealthy men — that is to say,
they are not engaged in that struggle for day-
to-day existence, which is the lot of the chief ]iart
of our laboring population. Themselves employed
in the production of the most important of the
necessaries of life, they may with truth be said to
be, if not wealthy, still as a class, independent.
Yet viewed as a class, there are no stricter utili-
tarians than American farmers.

The greater portion of our agricultural popu-
lation pass through life, knowing but little of those
peaceful rural enjoyments which are placed, almost

without charge, at their command, and which so

( ^'7)

248 PEACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

much tend to calm the spirit, elevate the mind,
purify the heart, and ennoble the desires and aspi-
rations of man. How often do we find the owner
of hundreds of acres living contentedly all his days
in the midst of a barren " clearing," without making,
in all that time, a well-directed effort to assem-
ble around his homestead, those homely, rural
charms — Flowers, Shrubs and Trees — which, with
little labor, and less cost, would make of his home
a paradise instead of a desert waste, and the power
of tlieir associations, of himself and his progeny,
thinking, feeling, human beings, instead of mere
producers of certain quantities of corn and pork!

To disseminate among such, the principles of
correct taste, and excite in them a love of the
beautiful, seems to us highly desirable; and if the
present volume should be, in the slightest degree,
instrumental in effecting this object, the author's
fervent wishes would be fulfilled.

As we have said, in another part of this vol-
ume, much more is to be done in this country,
and particularly in the West, in preserving the
natural beauties of the forest, than in creating
new and artificial charms.

THE FARM. 249

Beauty of scenery, and utility are not so oppo-
site that the two can not be united on a farm.
How many corners and nooks are there ahout a
farm-yard, which, now left year after year to bar-
renness, might, with a very little labor in winter,
be stocked with young Maples, Elms, and other
forest trees, which would make shade for man and
beast, and add infinitely to the beauty of the scene!
How often do we see the picturesque bank of a
creek stripped of all its beauty by cutting down
the overhanging trees ; or the noblest forest trees
destroyed to make a "clearing," in the midst of
which to set a house, and their place supplied by
some ragged Locusts, whose innumerable sprouts
break up the ground all round, and render it
impossible to make even a respectable-looking lawn?

There is no good reason why the farmer's resi-
dence should not look as neat, and clean, and sim-
ply beautiful, as the country gentleman's! Instead
of ash-heaps, chips, etc., scattered round the house,
we would see a smooth and beautiful Lawn trav-
ersed by regular walks. His dwelling and the out-
houses should be shaded by forest trees, propor-
tioned to the buildings. His spring or well, instead

250 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

of' standing naked and exposed to the burning sun,
as is but too often tlie case, might be surrounded
by a little grove. His doors and windows should
be festooned with Running Eoses and Grape-vines,
while other hardy flowers are disposed in beds, in
front. His springhouse might be shaded by Creep-
ing plants ; his smokehouse overrun with Ivy or
Honeysuckle; and the whole would, with a little
trouble, and at a very small outlay, be turned
into a charming country scene, attracting the eye
of even the most tasteless by its simple beauty,
and affording a constant pleasure to the inmates.
This might be done, we say. We are glad to say
that many just such scenes are to be found through
the country, but as yet these are so small, in
point of numbers, as to form the exception, rather
than the rule. With but too large a class of
our farmers, the ash-heap is yet a permanent insti-
tution, trees (except Locusts) are considered nui-
sances, which it is a meritorious act, under all
circumstances, to abate, and flowers and shrubs are
unthought of.

But we desire to go beyond the mere orna-
mentation of the grounds more immediately sur-

THE FARM.

251

Fig. Li.

GKOUND-PLAN OF AN ORNAMENTAL FARM, DEVOTED TO CATTLE-

GRAZINa AND TILLAGE.

ifKE House is
surrounded by a
Pleasuroground,
ornamented by
Shrubbery and
Flowers. The
Pleasure-ground
is divided from
the Park by a
AVire Fence, to
li^eep the cattle
off. The various
groves of Forest
ti-ees in thePark,
will add much
to the beauty of
the place. The
shores of the
Lake should be
planted, in some
places.with close
groups, \^•hich
should be made
to deceive the
eye as to extent.
The Farm-build-
ings are placed
in the middle of
the grounds, sui'-
rounded by a
grove of Forest-
trees. Behind
the buildings va-
rious subdivis-
ions are made
where cattle are
fed.

A, Front Lawn. Pleasure-grormd.

B, Park. Undivided range of Pas-

ture, and groves of Trees.

C, Tilled Fields.

D, Kitchen Garden.

E, Lake.

F, Residence.

G, Stable.

H, Farm-house and Farm-buildings.

THE FARM. 253

rounding the house. We wish to see all parts
of the farm heautified, when it can he done with-
out injury to profit, naturally the first consideration.
And no portion of th«r farm is more benefited, as
well as beautified by the improving hand of the
gardener, than the cattle-pastures. The cattle-grazer,
with his vast domain "his broad acres of Blue-
grass," to use a Kentucky phrase, dotted with cattle
and sheep, occupies the place among us, held in
England by the nobleman, as the owner of parks
stocked there with deer and game. Stock-raising
is becoming the most extensive and remunerating
part of farming, in the West. It needs large
tracts of laud, and when stocked with groves of
forest trees, either of natural growth, or placed
there by the proprietor, these tracts form the Amer-
ican Parks. IMuch of the woodland now left unem-
ployed on large farms, might, by a judicious use
of the ax, in thinning the heavier wood, and erad-
icating underbrush, giving room to Bluegrass, be
made the best of pastures for catttle, thus adding
wealth to the farmer's store, while beautifying the
country.

254 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Our farmers sliould read more. Eead to form
a taste for tlie beautiful, Avherever it may come to
light, aud tlien read, to learn how to satisfy that
taste; — read to learn how they may combine util-
ity and beauty — how they may benefit themselves,
while beautifying the country — how they may cul-
tivate in themselves and their children, a taste for
the refined and elegant in nature and art — which,
and which alone will elevate the farmer to his
proper place in the social ranks.

CHAPTER XXVII.

PUBLIC SQUARES AND PARKS.

Nearly every city, town, and village, in this
30untry, lias surrounding its public buildings, a
Square, of greater or less area. This Square is
generally left barren, and intersected by random
paths and walks, or it is put in grass. In neither
case does it present as beautiful an appearance as
it might be made to assume, if laid out in the
Geometric style. This would bo in keeping, too,
with its position, surrounded as it is on all sides
by houses. If intersected by walks, flower-beds
would add a grace and charm to the busy scene
of the town's center.

The grounds surrounding a building of large
dimensions, and of more importance, as a State-
House, should be laid out strictly in harmony with

the style of the building, either plain, or highly

(255)

256 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ornamental. A principal requisite about such places
is, that they be kept clean and neat, the grass
short, and all in perfect order.

Our large cities are lamentably deficient in
Parks, those ''lungs of cities," as they have been
appropriately styled. In some, however, the evil is
being remedied, and we are glad to see public
attention looking that way in every large city
through the land. The public Park is a delight-
ful place of recreation for all classes of citizens,
from the poorest to the richest. At the close of
the labors of a day or week, the artisan or trades-
man repairs here to enjoy a breath of free, pure,
unadulterated air — to imbibe the fragrance of beau-
tiful flowers, and refresh his toil-worn senses with
a glance at the bright colors of Nature, and the
gay carols of her feathered songsters.

The scenery of a public Park, should be com-
posed of grand and impressive masses and groups,
and pleasant groves of forest trees, smiling lawns,
occasional groups of flowers, and beautiful shrub-
bery, the whole intersected and variegated by
])road and smooth walks and roads. Natural scenes
should be imitated as closely as possible, as the?

PUBLIC SQUARES AND PARKS. 257

more natural and unrestrained the appearance of
the scene, the greater the pleasure it will give to
those who have come forth from the restraints of
the city to enjoy it.

It is much to be hoped that, before it is too
late, every American city will provide for a public
Park, and in the laying out of future cities in
the far West, this subject should be taken into
consideration from the first.

22

CHAPTER XXVIIl.

THE CEMETERY.

Among all civilized nations, from the earliest ages
to the present day, the Burial-place of the dead
has received much care and attention from the
living. The amount of care and pains bestowed
upon the decorations of the graves of deceased
friends and great men, in ancient times, was very
great, and was always in precise ratio to the
degree of civilization enjoyed by the living. It is
a great, though melancholy pleasure, to muse over
the resting-place of the loved one lost, to pay those
attentions to their graves which are dictated by
the highest and purest feelings of affection and
love, of which the human heart is capable.

In many countries of Europe, and particularly in
France, much attention is paid to the tasteful lay-
ing-out and decorating of Burial-grounds. But from
( 258 >

260

PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.
Fig. 15.

A, Main Entrance Portal.

B, Eecei\ing-vault.

C, Public Monuments.

D. Main Carriage-way.

E. Exit Carriago-road.

The scone around the Entrance Portal and the Main Eeccinng-vault, is
set apart for Ornamental Improvement only, no graves being admitted there.
The front Lawn is ornamented with groups of fine Flowering Shrubbery

THE CEMETERY.
Fi- 15.

261

and Flower? ; arouuJ the Main Vault, the scene should be solemn and
earnest; many Evergreen-trees are planted around. The junctions of the
Carriage-roads are planted with solid masses of Trees and Shrubbery.
The graves are made on the open Jawns, each grave and monument re-
ceiving its own embellishment with Evergreens and Shrubbery.

THE CEMETERY. 263

present indications of tlie American taste, this coun-
try will soon, if she does not already, excel all
others, in the beauty of her Cemeteries. And, in
the absence of public parks, such as we find in
the great cities of Europe, our Cemeteries, aside
from their appropriateness, as beautiful resting-places
for those we have loved on earth, are calculated to,
and do already, exercise a powerful influence upon the
public taste for rural improvement. Laid out in
accordance with the most approved rules of the Art
of Landscape Gardening, as most of them are, and
all should be, and chastely and tastefully decorated,
they are the schools in which the eyes of our peo-
ple will be trained to perceive the truly beautiful,
and their minds to appreciate it, and to distinguish
between it and a false and unnatural taste.

We design giving a few remarks upon the situa-
tion and planning-out of Cemeteries, and the style
of ornamentation proper to be adopted in them,
hoping that such may prove both interesting and
useful. And, first, the situation should be one
commanding fine prospects, either seaward, if situ-
ated upon the sea-coast, or extending over a wide

264 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

and pleasant range of country, if inland. It should
be of convenient access from the city, and should
contain, naturally, within itself, the elements out
of which may he formed a fine Landscape. Mt.
Auburn, near Boston, and Greenwood, near New
York, are specimens of finely chosen situations for
Cemeteries. That near Frankfort, Ky., is also placed
in a highly picturesque spot.

In the first laying out of the place, the entire
plan should be formed and firmly settled upon by
men of experience, correct taste, and sound judg-
ment. The surveyor is then empowered to make
his subdivisions into grave-lots, in accordance with
this plan. Where the surveyor is allowed to divide
and subdivide, as he sees fit, unless he is also a
Landscape Gardener, which is not always the case,
he will inevitably spoil many beautiful scenes, and
render the whole grounds a simple patchwork.

A substantial fence, or better yet, a hedge,
must surround the entire grounds. The style of
the principal buildings, as the Keeper's Lodge, the
Entrance Portal, the Receiving-vaults, etc., should be
strictly in accordance with the character of the

THE CEMETERY. 265

place. Light, fantastic shapes, or fanciful designs,
are, of course, entirely out of place. The scenery
ahout the principal or receiving-vaults, in particu-
lar, should be earnest and solemnly impressive.
The different carriage-roads should meet near these
vaults. The entire grounds must be intersected in
various directions by carriage-roads. Grass-walks,
or sweeping gravel-walks should lead from these
to each individual grave-lot, giving free, unre-
strained access to all. In the general plan, the
best and most level parts of the grounds are, of
course, reserved for grave-lots, the lower and broken
parts giving a spot for plantation. Here powerful
masses of trees should be formed into shady groves,
adding variety and beauty to the scene, and bring-
into bolder relief the smooth lawns devoted to graves.
Plantation should be carefully and skillfully arranged,
with a view to the prospects attainable, both to
within and without, from different points on the
grounds. Conspicuous objects in the scenery, should
receive additional effect from the manner in which
they are brought to the eye. Interest should be
maintained by partial disclosures, in the views mthin,
23

266 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAPvDENING.

too many fine monuments, or other objects not being
allowed to appear to the sight at once. The entire
arrangement of the plantation having been previ-
ously fixed upon, lot-holders should be forced to
pay regard to the rules of the grounds, and not
arbitrarily spoil, by their lack of taste, the appear-
ance of the whole grounds. The graves should not
be allowed to be surrounded with high, conspicuous
railings or fences, iron or otherwise, as such are
entirely out of keeping with natural scenery. If
especially designed to have a fence, (which, how-
ever, is not at all necessary) it should be a low,
unobtrusive railing, of a chaste design. An able
and tasteful Superintendent should have charge of
the grounds, and it should be his duty to see that
private fancy or caprice does not, in any place,
interfere with the harmonious beauty of the entire
landscape. He should be able to furnish to such
as desired it, plans for tasteful decorations of
graves. It should be the aim to divest grounds
of this character entirely of the forlorn appear-
ance, common to Graveyards and Cemeteries, and
to form as natural and variegated a scene as is

THE CEMETERY, 267

possible, to unite with tlie solemnity necessary for
sucli a place.

The ideas detailed above, are applicable, not
only to the magnificent and expensive Cemeteries
attached to larger cities, but also to the more
confined village Burying-Ground, which, by a taste-
ful arrangement of a few flowers, shrubs and
trees, may be made a most beautiful place.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN.

REMAEKS.

The Vegetable-Garden is generally laid out in
regular forms, as squares or oblongs ; and straight
walks are required to divide its different parts
from one another. Every square may again be
subdivided into beds of from four to five feet in
breadtb, or it may be used for the cultivation of
but one kind of Vegetable. The outside of the
square is frequently formed into a border, in which
the smaller fruit-trees, as dwarf AjDples, Pears, etc.,
are planted at regular distances. Between such
fruit-trees Vegetables may be raised, or flowers may
be planted to ornament the Garden.

In Gardens of great extent there should be one

main road, wide enough to admit a cart or wagon,
(268)

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 269

as tlicre is coustaiitly ueecl of fresli manure. In
smaller patches, sufficient manure is easily brought
on wheelbarrows.

In dividing the different parts of a Kitchen-
garden, care must be taken to allow each kind of
vegetable sufficient room to grow, so that it may
arrive at full perfection.

For the operations of planting, hoeing, and clean-
ing, free access must be had to the different squares
or beds, without being obliged to cross one bed
to get to the next. Tlie various kinds of Vege-
tables should not be planted as accident may place
them ; they generally vary in regard to the season
when used, as well as in the time required to
bring them to perfection, and strict regard must
be paid to these considerations, when laying out
and planting. Thus, the earliest kinds, as Eadishes,
and Lettuce, and Peas, Beans, Early Cabbage, etc.,
for midsummer, should go together, while Carrots,
Parsnips, etc., for winter use, should form another
department. It is only by thus systematically divid-
ing the ground, that an orderly management of
the whole can be kept up.

270 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

ASPECT.

One of tlie first requisites of a suitable Kitclien-
garden, is, that it should bring forth its crops as
early as possible, especially in spring, when new
and tender Vegetables are in greater requisition
than at other seasons. The garden is, therefore,
to be placed in a warm situation, facing the south
or southeast. Southwest is not so favorable as
southeast, yet highly preferable to a northern aspect.
Ground slightly inclining toward the south and east
is undoubtedly the most suitable, as the sun's rays
naturally strike such ground more directly than if
perfectly flat.

The ground intended for a Vegetable-garden,
must be so situated as to receive the greatest
possible benefit from the enlivening, life-giving rays
of the sun. There should be no shade-trees in
its neighborhood, sufficiently near to affect the Gar-
den. The situation must be airy, yet not exposed
to north and northwest winds. Such an exposure
will retard, and oftentimes destroy, the growth of
all the vegetables. A northern and western ex-
posure may be guarded against by tight fences,

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 271

or thick plantations of slirubloery along those sides
of the Garden.

SHAPE OF THE GROUND.

It was remarked above, that an easy inclina-
tion of the surface toward the south is to be pre-
ferred for a Vep'etable-o-ardcn. If the o;round is
too steep, and thus likely to be washed away by
heavy rains, it becomes necessary to improve it, by
forming it into terraces, cither with stone walls or
grass-banks. The beds, or squares, on such ter-
races, are choice spots whereon to raise the earliest
Vegetables ; they are preferable to all level situa-
tions. If the ground is nearly level, yet broken
by small eminences, it is only necessary to bring
it to such a level as will conveniently admit till-
age.

Where a Vegetable-garden is laid out accord-
ing to the Geometrical style, in squares, circles,
borders and beds, the ground, if not terraced up,
should be made as nearly level as possible — the
Geometrical style, wherever introduced, requires level
ground.

272 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

THE SOIL,

Must be dry, loose and ricli. Sandy soil is
generally preferable for tlie growth of early vege-
tables, but being rather light and loose, it is not
calculated to resist the effects of drought and sum-
mer heat, as well as soils of a heavier and more
substantial nature. A rich loam is undoubtedly
the best for a Vegetable-garden. It forms the
just medium between light and sandy soil, and
stiflp, heavy clay soil. It brings forth Vegetables
at a very early period in spring, and will also
resist the effects of drought.

Clay soil is, in most cases, too stiff and heavy ;
it is extremely hard to work, and is apt to bake
hard on the surface, after every rain, in sum-
mer. It has also a disagreeable subsoil, making
it wet and unfit to work at an early day in spring.
Clay is the most troublesome of all soils for vege-
table-gardening. To make it suitable for a Gar-
den, it must be thoroughly drained, and highly
manured, in order to change, if possible, its nature,
that it may become gradually loose and rich. Some
clay soils will never make ground fit for a Kitchen-

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 273

garden, and such places should bo carefully avoided,
when selecting a garden-spot. Where no other soil
is to be got, it will be found necessary to take
the original ground out of the beds, to the depth
of one or two feet, and replace it with better soil.

MANURE.

Whatever be the quality of the soil, it can not
be expected to yield Vegetables for a succession of
years, without being frequently manured, to renew its
strength. Eich, sandy loam, requires less manure
than the poorer clay soil. The gardener should
never be afraid of making his ground too rich ;
he may put on it, perhaps, too much manure at one
time, yet he can not give too much strength to
his ground. The manure, when it is put on the
land, should be well rotted, especially in spring,
when the operation of planting or sowing follows
immediately after manuring and tilling. In fall
or early winter, almost any kind of manure will
do, as it will rot during winter, when under ground.
To manure the land in fall, after the crops are
taken off, and to work the manure under by a deep

274 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

tillage, is undoubtedly the best plan to prepare the
ground for raising Vegetables. Cow manure is con-
sidered the richest, yet well-rotted horse manure,
when applied in sufficient quantity, will answer as
well. It is a good plan to set up piles of manure
and earth, in alternate layers of nine to twelve
inches deep, each, working these over after laying
for three or four months, and taking pains to
thoroughly mix the ground and manure. Let them
then remain for a space of time again, and the
whole heap will be found a most excellent fer-
tilizer. Such piles of compost should be found
in every Kitchen-garden.

TILLAGE.

It is necessary to work the ground of the Kitchen-
garden with much precaution and care ; the suc-
cess of the crops depends, in great measure, on
proper tillage in spring. The ground should on
no account whatever, be touched in spring, before
it is sufficiently dry to be worked with advantage.
Sandy and loamy soils arrive at this state much
earlier than clay soil, which generally can not be

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 275

worked under a fortnight later. If clay soil is
worked wet, in spring, it may be considered spoiled,
often being almost useless for tlie whole season.
The ground, when taken up with the spade, should
break and divide freely, and while it has any ten-
dency to stiffness, it is not fit to be worked.

Gardens of smaller extent are best tilled with
the spade ; the ground must receive a deej) and
careful spading, and must be made sufficiently fine
on the surface, with the rake, to receive either
seed or plants. Larger gardens, affording suffi-
cient room for operation with the plow and har-
row, are cheapest worked in this way. In plow-
ing ground for the Vegetable-garden, it is impor-
tant, to run the furrows as narrow as possible, to
make the ground finer. In heavier soils, where
the ground breaks in large lumps, it is necessary
to run the plow twice, and even three times, till
the earth is made fine enough for garden purposes.
The harrow must then pulverize the lumps and
clods. After harrowing, a heavy plank, four feet
in length and two or three feet broad, should be
used. The horses are hitched to this, and, the
driver standing on the plank, it is carried over

276 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the field, leveling all inequalities, and completely
pulverizing the soil wherever it goes over it. Where
the process of plowing, harrowing, and afterward
smoothing, as above described, is carefully performed,
the ground will be found in every respect suited
to the wants of the gardener, and at much less
cost than if it had been worked with spade and rake.
A common field or pasture, when about to be
turned into a Vegetable-garden, should be dug
with a spade, two spades deep; or, where the plow
is used, a heavy subsoil plow must follow the com-
mon plow, to deepen the furrows and break up the
lower stratum of soil. Deep plowing and spading
are much opposed by some practical men, but there
is nothing more certain than the fact, that they
form the most important item in the cultivation
of ground, for purposes either of agriculture or
horticulture.

WEEDING AND CLEANING.

No Vegetable-garden can be expected to be
successful, if the plants, while young and tender,
are left to shift for themselves. They must, by

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 277

all means, be kept entirely clear of weeds, and
the ground around tlieni should be frequently well
stirred and loosened round the roots, during the
time they are growing. Only a few fast-growing
species of Vegetables, as Eadishes, Turnips and
Wintergreens, are sown broad-cast. All the more
important kinds must be sown or planted in rows
or drills, that they may be more easily tended.
In eradicating weeds from the soil, it is worth
while to remember, that much wearisome labor will
be saved if weeds are carefully destroyed when they
first appear above ground. If neglected at that
time, and allowed to shoot up with the Vegetables,
they will not only take from the latter a portion
of the juice which should properly go to nourish
them, but it will bo found a matter involving much
labor to destroy them afterward, without injury to
the crops. It should be made a rule, that on the
first appearance of weeds, the entire Garden should
be gone over thoroughly to destroy them; and this
will be found the cheapest, in the end, even where
a large force has to be engaged for the purpose.
It is certain that this is the only way in which a
satisfactory crop can be obtained.

278 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

The ground between tlie rows should he deeply
and thoroughly hoed after the weeds are destroyed,
thus giving the young plants a chance to spread
their roots, and rapidly gain strength. If these
directions concerning hoeing and weeding are strictly
followed up, there will be but little after trouble
about weeds, or loosening the ground. If, on the
contrary, through unwise haste, the work is done
but imperfectly at first, all future operations will
involve much more labor, and after all, the crops
will be retarded, and yield returns not at all equal
to those of ground carefully tended from the be-
ginning.

In small Gardens, for family use, hoeing and
cleaning is done by hand. On more extensive
tracts, the Hoe-Tiarrow or Cultivator is used. The
best pattern of Cultivators now made, is manufac-
tured in Louisville, Ky., by the inventor, Mr.
Briscoe. His machines are by far the best ever
offered for sale in the West.

It is of the utmost importance in Kitchen-Gard-
ening, to use none but the very best of seed. But
unfortunately, it is a matter of much difficulty,
sometimes, to obtain seed in such perfection as is

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 279

to be wislied. Tlie seed sold in seedstores is not
always found to be what it is sold for, and in
fact no man can be sure of wbat he purchases
in this line, unless he deals with a man, either
grower or seller, of known probity. The estab-
lishment of David Landreth & Co., Philadelphia, is
one of the best known and most trustworthy in the
country, and seeds obtained there, are perfectly
reliable.

The cheapest, and by long odds the surest way of
obtaining seed, is to raise it on the grounds, or by
the persons intending to use it. Of the method of
doing this, in various plants, we shall speak far-
ther on.

Most of the ordinary vegetables must be sown
or planted every year. A few, however, if once well
established in the ground, will last for years. The
most important of these are Asparagus, Ehubarb
and Artichokes.

ASPARAGUS.
Asparagus is a quite well known and highly
esteemed Vegetable. It varies much in strength of
growth, according to the soil in which it is grown.

280 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENENG.

Substantial, loamy soil is the best adapted for it.
It can not he too ricJily manured. To raise a bed
of Asparagus, tbe seed should be sown thinly, in
drills, after being soaked for a few days in water.
If the young plants are afterward kept clear of
weeds, and the ground well hoed about them, they
will obtain sufficient strength during the first year
to bear setting out, the second spring, into the
beds in which they are to remain. Plants of one
or two year's old are, however, generally to be
found for sale in the seedstores; and in raising
Asparagus for table use, it is best to purchase of
these, thus saving a year's growth and attention,
which would otherwise be lost. The patch or bed
into which Asparagus is to be transplanted, should
be prepared with great care. The most conveni-
ent size for beds is, from four to five feet wide,
and as long as desired. In these beds, the ground
should be very deeply dug (trenched), and profusely
manured. To throw rotten wood and decayed vege-
table matter of any kind as a bottom layer, into
the bed, will be found useful. In short, the richer,
deeper and mellower the ground is made, the more
luxuriant and tender will the Asparagus be. The

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 281

plants should not be set out until just as they
begin to push or give evidence of returning life,
in spring. This should be carefully attended to,
in order to make them uniform in coming up. They
are set four or five inches deep iu the ground, in
rows twelve inches apart both ways. The beds must
be filled every winter anew, with manure and earth,
that the roots may be always six inches below the
surface. In the spring, the beds should be well
dug with a fork, not with a spade. A layer of
salt applied to the surface of the beds, in spring,
is highly beneficial to the plants.

RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT.

The foot-stalk of the leaf of Ehubarb, or Pie-
plant, is used in the kitchen, and is highly esteemed
as an esculent. There are several varieties, which
bear different names in various places. A small
variety, with purple tinted foot-stalks, is the earliest
in spring. The Victoria, a variety lately intro-
duced, is the largest and most esteemed of all.
The root of the Ehubarb may be divided into as
many diiferent parts as there are eyes, each of
which will grow, if planted out. When it is desired

282 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

to raise tliem from seed, this sliould be sown in
good ground in tlie garden, or better yet, early in
the spring, in hotbeds. They may then be trans-
planted or set out during the summer. Beds for
Ehubarb may be placed in any part of the Gar-
den, where the soil is not so wet as to rot the roots
in winter. The beds should be well manured, when
first used, and afterward every winter. The richer
the ground is made, the finer will be the plants.

ARTICHOKE.

The Artichoke is a vegetable but little sought for
or even known in this country. It is not quite hardy
with us, and requires to be well protected from
the frosts and moisture of winter, which are apt
to destroy the plants. The part mostly used, is
the pulpy receptacle in the fiower-heads, termed the
bottom, which must be freed from the pistils or
seed-down.

ANNUAL VEGETABLES,

Or those which may be sown every spring, we
have arranged below, in regard to their uses, in
three classes. First, those of which the fruits are

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 283

used; Second, those of which the leaves and stems
are used ; and third, those of which the roots are
used.

Under the first division come Peas, Beans, Mel-
ons, Cucumbers, Squashes, Tomato, Okra, Egg-plant,
Pepper and Sugar-Corn.

In the second division we have Cabbage, Cau-
liflower, Winter-greens (Kale, Spinach and Turnip-
greens), Sorrel, Parsley, Celery, Lettuce, Chervil,
Endive and Cresses.

The third division comprises the Eadish, Beet,
Parsnip, Turnip, Salsify, Carrot, Onion and common
and Sweet Potatoe.

BEANS.

Of these there are two distinct varieties ; the
Dwarf or ^us7i-Beans, and the Running or Pole
Beans. The best varieties of Bush-Beans are the
Early Six-Weelcs Bean — the earliest variety known ;
the Speckled Valentine Bean, the most productive ;
and the China Red-Eye, a very good variety.

It is not well to plant Beans too early in
spring, as they are tender when young, and liable
to be killed by frost. In planting, they arc

284 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENINa.

dropped in drills, two or three Beans together,
and ten or twelve inches apart. The drills should
be twenty-four inches apart. The seed is covered
with ground to the depth of an inch. When they
come up, it is generally necessary to thin them
out, in order to give those that are left, more
room to grow. The space allotted to them in the
Garden should not all be planted at the same
time, but at intervals of a week, or two weeks,
whereby there will be provided a constant succes-
sion of green Beans. The Snap-Bean (Valentine),
may be planted at difterent times during the sum-
mer, as it stands the heat better than any other
kind. The soil, for Beans, should be well manured,
in order to bring them to perfection in the least
possible time.

Pole Beans are used either shelled, as the Lima
Bean, or green, as the White Dutch, the Wren's-
Egg Bean, and other varieties. The Lima Bean is
planted in hills, five feet apart, each way. It is
a rapid, strong grower, and requires strong poles.
The soil should not be too rich, as, if so, it has
a tendency to run to vines instead of pods. The
other varieties of pole Beans, used green, ..may

THE VEGtETABLE-GARKEN. 285

be planted in hills, three feet apart each way.
They are not of so strong growth as the Lima
Beans ; are often planted with corn, and when
raised alone, do not need such stout poles as the
Lima Bean.

PEAS.

There is an endless variety of this family. The
earliest, and those producing the largest seeds, are
the most esteemed. The Landreth's Extra Early,
is known everywhere to be the earliest of all
Peas. Early Frames are from eight to ten days
later than the Extra Early. For a later supply
than these afford, it is best to plant the very
largest varieties, called the Marrmvfat. These are
either dwarf or higher growing. TJie Blue Impe-
rial Dwarf is an extremely sweet variety.

Peas are sown in rows, which are laid off, two
together, and three feet apart. The peas are sown
tolerably thick in the drills, and should be covered
with well-rotted manure, finely pulverized, to pro-
tect them from severe frost. They are supported
by brush, firmly sunk in the ground, along the
rows. They may be sown as early in spring as

286 PKACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAKDENING.

the ground can be worked, as they are hardy when
once out of the ground. When hoeing them, it
is best to hill the ground along the roots and
stems. The early and late varieties are sown at
the same time, and form a natural succession. The
Uarly Frame may be sown at different intervals,
in smaller quantities, to have a continuous succes-
sion. The ground for the early varieties should
be rich; the Marrowfat peas being strong growers,
do not bear well if planted in too rich soil.

0 K K A,

Is a vegetable highly esteemed by many per-
sons, as an ingredient in soups and stews. The
seed is planted in drills, the plants ten or twelve
inches apart in the row. The drills should be
two or three feet apart. The beginning of May
is the best time to sow the seed, which should be
put thickly in the ground, as only part of it is
likely to come up. It requires, like all other
vegetables, careful tending, while growing. The
soil can not be made too rich for it.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 287

TOMATO.

This is one of the most liiglily-esteemed Vege-
tables to Le found in the American Kitchen-garden.
There are several varieties : The Large Red, bear-
ing the finest fruit, the Large Yellow, and the
small Pear or Cherry-shaped variety. It grows
without difficulty in almost any soil. For an early
supply, as soon as warm weather has set in (about
the first of May, in an average season), the plants
may be set out in the open air, from hotbeds,
where they may be raised to great size. They
are transplanted without diflBculty, and should be
five or six feet apart each way. A warm, shel-
tered spot, should be picked out for early Tomatoes.
For a late supply, seed is sown in the beginning
of May, and the plants are afterward set out in
beds. The Tomato bears best in rather poor soil;
in rich ground it is apt to run to vines. The
vines are commonly allowed to run along the sur-
face of the gi'ound, although some gardeners think
best to train them on brushwood — either Avay will
do well.

288 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

EGG-PLANT.

With many this vegetahle is a great favorite.
It is no rarity in our markets. The seed should
be sown in a hotbed, and started there to the
hight of ten or twelve inches. The plants, when
young, require considerable heat to bring them on.
They should not therefore be planted out before
the middle or end of May. They will only come
to perfection in the very richest ground. Planted
out, they should stand in rows two feet apart each
way.

PEPPERS.

These are principally used for pickling. The
different varieties bear fruits varying in size. The
Large Sweet is the most highly thought of. There
is another species much resembling this, but of
inferior quality, called the Bullnose Pepper. The
variety bearing long pods is called the Cayenne.
The plants should be started from the seeds, in a
hotbed, and planted out in the garden in the
beginning of May. The seed may also be sown, in
a warm border, in the open air, late in spring, and

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 289

when they sprout, tlie plants are thinned out to
the proper quantity. Peppers require a rich soil
to attain perfection.

MELONS.

The Citron and Nutmeg, are the two favorite
varieties of the Sugar or Muskraelon ; the Caro-
lina and Mountain Sprout, the two choicest kinds
of Watermelons. In planting, the seeds are laid
in hills, from six to twelve in a hill, these being
laid off in squares of four feet. When the plants
have got fairly started, they should be thinned out
to four in each hill. The beginning of May is
the time to plant Melons. The roots of this plant
run near the surface, and it is therefore an advan-
tage to surround the stems with fine ""round, that
the roots may have an opportunity to spread. Care
must be taken, in hoeing, that none of the roots
are cut or destroyed. Early plants may be started
in a hotbed, where the seed may be planted in
small flower-pots, or on little pieces of sod, and
set out in the garden, in a warm place, about the

middle of May. The Melon tribe requires a well-
25

290 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

manured, rich, but liglit soil — sandy loam is pecu-
liarly suitable to tbem.

CUCUMBER.

There is but one kind worth growing, the Long
Green. The Early Frame may be some little earlier
than the Long Green, yet the fruit is not near so
large. The mode of raising the Cucumber is similar
to that stated for Melons. It is to be remarked,
that in many parts of the country the young plants
of Cucumbers, Muskmelons, and Squashes, are fre-
quently destroyed by swarms of small yellow bugs,
called by gardeners the Cucumber Bug. Whore
these bugs prevail, the only way to save the plants
from destruction, is to set a box, made of rough
boards, twelve inches square, over every hill, before
the seed has sprouted. A piece of fine musquito-
bar muslin is lightly nailed over the box : the
four sides of the box are then well surrounded
with fine earth. Thus the plants are protected,
till strong enough to resist the enemy. For pick-
ling. Cucumbers are planted in the middle of
summer.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 291

SQUASH,

The best variety of the Squash is the Early
Bush. Its culture is similar to that of the cucum-
ber. The Squash and Pumpkin should be at a
distance from the Muskmelon beds, as they are
apt to deteriorate the choicer sorts of melons.

THE PUMPKIN.

The culture of the Pumpkin is extremely simple.
Lay the seed in hills, in the month of May, in
rich ground, and keep the weeds down for some
time, till the plants are fairly started ; the balance
they will accomplish themselves. Pumpkins are
very frequently raised with corn.

SWEET CORN.

The Evergreeii Sugar, and Sweet Sugar, are the
earliest kinds, and most valuable for table use.
It is planted in hills, two and a half feet apart,
each way, and must be frequently worked. Three
or four plants in one hill are sufficient. It is

292 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

a fact well known among farmers, that the richer
the land, the better the corn.

CABBAGE.

Early York, is the earliest kind known. The
Large York and Early Sugai^-loaf are some later,
but of larger size. The Large Drumhead, and Flat
Butch, are the choicest later kinds, generally raised
for winter use. The Ch^een Curled Savoy, and Red
Dutch, are very good late varieties also. The seed
of the earlier kinds should be sown under glass,
after New Year, or under some kind of shelter,
at the end of February. It is necessary to sow
at the same time some of the late Drumhead also,
to have an uninterrupted succession. The plants,
raised under glass to a strong size, are planted
out at the end of IMarcli or beginning of April.
The earlier kinds may be set two feet apart in
the row, the rows being two and a half feet from
each other. The late Drumhead should be planted
three feet apart each way. For later use the seed
of the Flat Dutch and Drumhead is sown, early
in the spring, in a warm spot in the Garden.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 293

This later sowing may be repeated during spring,
to liave a good supply of plants for winter use.
It is better to proyide, early in the spring, for a
great quantity of plants, as further on the young
plants are often destroyed by the Cabhage-Jiy. There
is no sure preyention of this plague.

Cabbage requires a well-tilled and very heavily-
manured soil, to come to satisfactory perfection, espe-
cially the earlier kinds. It should be well hoed
and weeded.

The Turnip-rooted Cabbage, a favorite Vegetable
with many persons, is treated in the same manner
as the common Cabbage ; it may also be planted
for early, as well as for winter use.

CAULIFLOWER,

Is one of the choicest Vegetables known. Its
success in open air is very uncertain in the western
and middle states, owing to the dry heats of early
summer. In the eastern states the climate is more
favorable to it. It requires a moist, temperate
atmosphere to come to perfection. Burning heat
or drought is sure destruction to it. The plants

294 PRACTICAL LAjS'DSCAPE GARDENING.

sliould be raised over winter in cold-beds, yet under
protection from the severe cold of tlie season. Good
sized plants should be planted out at an early
period in the spring ; in case of severe frost they
must be protected with litter or boxes. Cauliflower
can only be raised in the best and richest ground.
The plants, set out in cold-beds, and under glass,
in February, being fairly started till spring, and
freely watered, are much more apt to form fine
heads, than those planted in the Garden. There
are two varieties : the early Asiatic Caulifloiver, gen-
erally used for an early crop, and the Late Butch,
best adapted for fall use. For fall use the seed
is sown in spring, in the Garden, and transplanted
like late cabbage. If the heads are not formed
in fall, the plants are interred like cabbage, and
frequently form fine heads during winter.

BROCCOLI,

Is a vegetable similar to the cauliflower, and
grown in the same manner. It is a more certain
crop than cauliflower, when planted in summer for
winter use.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 295

GREENS,

German Dtvarf- Greens, or Kale, Turnip Greens,
and Spinac-h, are sown broadcast, on rich ground,
in the latter part of summer and early fall. They
should attain strength enough, before frost, to resist
the cold of winter. They are used in winter and
spring for Greens. The Cabbage-fly frequently de-
stroys the young plants when coming up, in con-
sequence of which it is often necessary to sow the
ground over again. In early spring, Kale and
Spinach are sown, to have a fair supply of Greens
till the early Cabbage comes on.

LETTUCE,

Is the most esteemed Vegetable for Salad. There
are many varieties cultivated. The Early Curled
Indian, and Royal Cabbage are the most valuable
sorts. It is sown in hotbeds during winter, where
good sized plants are raised. In IMarch it may be
transplanted into a warm, well-manured border of
the Garden ; for a later crop, some seed should be
sown in the Garden, and when strong enough.

296 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

transplanted. The plants are set twelve inches
apart, each way. Spring is the only season for
Lettuce; as soon as hot weather sets in, it goes
to seed, and becomes very hitter and unwholesome.
For a late supply, some little seed may he sown
in early fall. Lettuce is a good plant to raise
under glass, to have a fair supply in early spring.

ENDIVE,

Is raised for Salad, for fall and winter use.
The curled white and green kinds are generally used.
The hroad-leaved Scarolle is a very good variety,
but is little known in this country. The Endive
is sown in spring and midsummer, in drills ; when
an inch or two high, it is thinned out to stand
a foot apart. Its leaves naturally lie flat on the
ground, and it must therefore he tied up to bleach.
It can be preserved a long time in water, in a
cellar, under the staging of a greenhouse, or in
a cold frame under glass.

Cress is an herb of little value, generally used
for small Salad. The seed is sown thickly, in
drills; when two or three inches high, it is cut
off close to the ground.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. . 297

SORREL,

Is used for Salad, or as greens. The seed may
be sown in drills, and when sprouted, thinned out.
Full-grown roots may he taken up in the fall and
spring, and divided, thus propagating it. It stands
over winter, and endures for many years.

Ohervil is, like the Cress, of little value, ex-
cept for Salad. It is sown in spring, in drills.

PARSLEY,

Is sown in spring, in drills. The Double Curled
is far preferable to the single-leafed variety. Roots
of Parsley are often taken up in the fall and planted
in a frame, under glass, where they furnish a sup-
ply of green leaves during winter.

CELERY,

Should be sown early in spring, in shallow
drills ; the seed, being very fine, is to be covered
but slightly. The young plants, also being small,
must be carefully Aveeded and otherwise tended. As
they grow up, they should be frequently hoed.

298 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Moisture is the life of Celery ; if tlie ground is
dry, tlie plant must be frequently watered. In
midsummer tliey should be transplanted in single
or double rows, ten inches from each other. The
rows should be seven feet apart. Some gardeners
make ditches, six or eight inches deep, manuring
the bottom, and plant the Celery in ; as it grows
up, the ditch is gradually filled up. Others make
the ditch but three inches deep, hilling the ground
around the plants with the spade ; the latter way
is preferable. K the weather is very hot and dry,
the plants should be often watered and shaded, in
the hottest hours of the day, else they are likely
to burn out. In the hottest time, the ground should
not be hilled around the stalks ; this is best done
after a shower, yet never, as long as the leaves or
stalks are wet from rain or dew. Neglect of this,
causes rust on the stalks, which should be white and
clean. In October, the weather is generally favor-
able for the growth of Celery, the nights being cool
and moist. The ground is gradually hilled around
the plants as they advance. For winter use, Celery
must be well secured from too severe frosts. A
substantial dam should be raised on both sides of

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 299

tlie row, fully as liigli as the outside leaves; the
leaves, however, should not be entirely hilled in by
the ground. The top of the ridge, thus formed, is
then covered with straw or litter, over which a board
is laid, to turn the water off from the center of the
stalks. Secured in this way, the stalks stand a con-
siderable degree of cold without being injured. A
very rich and substantial soil is required to bring
Celery to perfection. A moist situation is far pref-
erable to a dry one.

RADISH.

The best varieties for spring use, are the Turnip-
rooted Bed and White, the Long Scarlet, and Yel-
low Turnip-rooted. For summer and fall, the White
and Black Spanish are preferable. The early kinds
are sown broadcast, in the very beginning of spring.
They are quick, hardy, and easily withstand the
later frosts, if not too severe. A fine, loose, and
very rich soil is required to bring them on, at an
early day of spring.

The Long Scarlet, the best kind for table use,
is sown at intervals of a week, during spring. It

300 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

does not stand long in the hot days of summer,
without going to seed; and consequently, being unfit
for use.

The Yellow Turnip-i'ooted is sown as early as
possible in the spring, and follows the Red Scarlet.
It is the best Eadish for late spring use. For fall
and winter use, sow the White Summer, or White
Spanish, at any time during summer.

BE ET.

There is a quite early variety — Landreth's Extra
Early. The color of the root varies from yellow
to red. The Early Tiiryiip-rooted Red, is of a dark,
purplish color ; this is quite early, also.

The Long Blood-Red, is most preferred for win-
ter use. Good seed is very important, for success
in growing Beets. There is much bad seed sold.
The early kinds are sown early in spring, at inter-
vals of a week, as the young plants frequently suffer
from later frost. For winter supply, the seed is
sown some time during May. The seed should be
sown in drills, thick enough to secure a full
crop. The drills should be twelve inches apart, for

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 301

culture witli the lioe; for culture witli the Cultiva-
tor, the drills require to he two feet apart. As the
plants grow up, they are thinned out, to stand six
inches apart in the row. Careful hoeing is required
for the early crop. The ground must he constantly
loose around the roots. Eich ground is necessary
to ohtain a satisfactory crop.

TURNIP.

For table use there are hut two varieties worth
growing — the Flat Butch and the Red-topped. For
spring use, the seed should he sown as early as
possible in spring, in drills. When an inch high,
they should he thinned out. The spring crop is
very uncertain, owing to heat and drought, as well
as to the cahhage-fly. For fall and winter use,
sow broadcast, at different times, late in summer,
in good and loose ground. Care should be taken
not to sow too thickly.

CARROT.

There are two varieties grown in gardens : the
Early Horn and Long Orange. The Early Horn

302 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

is quite early, wlien well attended and in rich
ground.

Parsnip. Sugar Parsnip.

Salsify. Oyster-plant. Scorz&nere.

These three species of Vegetahles are similar
in culture and use. They are sown early in
spring, in drills, the drills twelve inches apart.
When up, they are thinned out, to have sufficient
room. When well worked during summer, they
form a certain crop. They are quite hardy and
stand winter without protection. The leaves of the
parsnip should never he touched when wet from
rain or dew, as they cause painful hlisters on the
hand or arms, when coming in contact with them.

ONION.

The White SilversTdn is a good variety for sum-
mer and fall use, but does not keep well over
winter. The Large Yellow, is the hest variety of
onion raised. The Top Onion is a larger kind,
but coarser and less finely flowered than the two
former kinds. It bears on the top of the stem

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 303

a Tauncli of small sets, wliicli are gathered and
planted again. The sets of the two first kinds
are raised from seed ; in early sjiring the seed is
sown very thickly in drills. These seeds produce
small onions, from the size of a pea to a hazel-
nut. These sets are planted out, in the spring,
(by some as early as the preceding fall,) in drills
an inch deep, four inches apart in the drill. The
sets need not be covered up with earth. While
growing they must be frequently cleaned and hoed.
When the tops are nearly dry, 'the Onion is ripe,
w^hen it may be taken up and stored away. Onions
are very hardy, and well able to resist frost. When
in a frozen state, they should never be touched,
and all animals, as chickens, rats, etc., should be
carefully kept from them. To have green onions
in winter and early spring, plant onions of any
size, in furrows six inches deep, in August or Sep-
tember. They sprout the same fall, and keep green
all winter.

Leek is, like Parsley, a Vegetable to be used
in soup. It belongs to the onion tribe. Sow the
seed in drills, in spring ; when grown up, trans-

304 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

plant the plants in rows, or thin out the seed-bed,
to give room for further growth. It is quite
hardy, and stands frost.

POTATO (IRISH).

The mode of cultivating the Potato is so gen-
erally known that it is not necessary to take up
space here with its details. There are many early
varieties, bearing different local names. Of these
the kinds, called, in Ohio, the White and Blue
MeshannicJcs, are far superior to all others, either
as early Potatoes, or for winter use.

Sweet Potatoes. — There are several varieties, known
by their colors, as the Red, Telhiv, and Purple. The
earliest are the Red. The Yelloiv attain the largest
size, and are the surest crop. The Sweet Potato
is a native of a warmer climate than that of the
middle States. Its foremost requirement is a very
loose, sandy soil, rather poor than rich. The ground
should be finely pulverized and then raised in hills
or ridges, in which the Potato plants are set.
When hills are made, three or four plants should
be put in a hill. In ridges the plants should

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 305

be twelve inches apart. The interior of the hill
or ridge should contain no clods of ground, but
be composed entirely of loose, fine soil.

Sprouting the Potatoes and raising the plants,
until ready to transplant, is the part requiring
most knowledge and attention. The bed ^yherein
the plants are to be sprouted, and which requires
to be in a very sheltered place in the Garden, if
not under glass, should be first warmed with fresh
horse manure. After this has nearly done steam-
ing, it is covered with a layer, six inches deep, of
dry, sandy soil. The Potatoes are laid on this
bed, near each other, and covered with dry sand
and earth, to the depth of an inch. While they
are sprouting, and not yet above the ground, it is
highly important to keep them entirely dry, as water
will cause them to rot. When two or three inches
high, they may be watered. They remain in the
bed until the time comes for transplanting, which
is during the month of May, early or late, accord-
ing to the season. Sprouting-beds should be under
sashes, or else covered with a tight cover of boards.
It is the practice of many Gardeners, to lay the

entire Potato in the bed, and afterward to nip

26

306 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

off the sprouts, without taking with them a por-
tion of the old Potato. Sprouts, when pro-
cured in this way, are not very certain to live. A
far better j)!^^? wo have found to he, to cut the
Potato in small pieces half an inch long. These
pieces are then spread thickly over the hed, and
covered with pure sand. Each piece will produce
one or more sprouts, and these can be much easier
transplanted, because they have a piece of the old
Potato with them, fi'om which to draw their nour-
ishment, until they are firmly established.

Where Sweet Potatoes are to be preserved over
winter, they must be handled with much care, that
they may not be bruised. In order to keep them
from rotting, it is only necessary that they be put
in a place where they will be dry and warm. When
first dug, if the weather is fair, they should be
exposed to the sun for a day or two. In the
room where they are put over winter, they should
be put in boxes, of any size most convenient, and
then covered over with dry sand or dry dust from
the roadside, saved for this purpose. The place in
which they are . to be put should be so constructed
as to keep out the frost.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 307

THE STRAWBERRY,

Much lias been written on tlie nature and the
best modes of culture of this favorite Garden-fruit.
Such multitudes of rules and explanations have
been offered by cultivators, botanists, and amateurs,
as have rather befogged these matters, than ren-
dered them plainer. We will content ourselves with
giving a few simple directions, which, if followed
by the amateur, will give him productive beds, with
but little trouble or expense.

The Strawberry plant is by nature very much
inclined to run to vines, and spread over a large
surface of ground. The want of knowledo-e how
to remedy this evil, is the main cause of the gen-
eral ill-success of Strawberry " patches," in private
Gardens. The end of April or beginning of May,
is the best time to set out a bed of Strawber-
ries, which will not, of course, bear until the fol-
lowing year. Great numbers are set out in the
fall, but they do not thrive so well, in the mid-
dle States. The ground must be carefully tilled
and dressed. It is then laid off into beds four
feet wide, with a narrow walk between every two

308 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

beds. Two rows are planted in each bed, two feet
apart, and tbe plants, eighteen inches apart. In
the course of the summer and fall, the vines will
overrun the whole bed, entirely covering the ground.
In the fall, three rows, nine inches wide, are marked
oft' on each bed, with a garden-line, and all plants
outside these lines are taken up. If the three
rows which remain are then too full, they may,
and ought to be thinned out, to give the plants
sufficient room for the next season, when they will
be found to bear very full. The ground between
the rows should be well hoed in the fall, and cov-
ered thinly with well-rotted vegetable manure, some
of which may also be sprinkled between the plants.
Thus the beds remain during winter, except that if
in an exposed situation, they will be benefited by
being covered with a layer of straw, or fine brush.
In the spring they should receive another thorough
hoeins;. The runners should not be allowed to
grow before the fruit ripens. This is prevented
by pinching them off. After the close of the bear-
ing season, the plants ai-e allowed to grow as they
please, until fall, when the mode of treatment above
described, should be a-j'ain y;one through with. Bv

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 309

following these directions any one may secure an
ample harvest of Strawberries, with but little trouble.

We have seen proper to quote another mode of
raising Strawberries, which we have seen in Mr.
Elliot's " American Fruit-Grower's Guide :"

^^ Culture in alternate Strips. — Strike out the
rows, three feet apart, with a line. Plant along
each line about a foot apart in the row. The
plants will soon send out runners, and these run-
ners should be alloAved to take possession of every
alternate strip of three feet; the other strips being-
kept bare by continually destroying all runners upon
it. The whole patch being kept free of all weeds,
the occupied strip or bed of runuers Avill now give
a heavy crop of berries, and the open strip of
three feet will serve as an alley from which to
gather fruit. After the crop is over, dig and pre-
pare this alley or strip for the occupancy of the
ncAv runners for the next season's crop.

"The runners from the old strip Avill now speed-
ily cover the new space allotted to them, and Avill
perhaps require a partial thinning out to have
them evenly distributed. As soon as this is the
case, say about the middle of August, dig under

310 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

the wliole of the old plants, applying a light coat of
manure. The surface may he then sown with Tur-
nips or Spinach, which will come out hefore the
next season of fruits.

" In this way the strips or heds occupied by
the plants are reversed every season, and the same
plot of ground may thus he continued in a pro-
ductive state for many years."

In setting out a new bed, young plants should
he selected, as old stocks are worthless for this pur-
pose. The heds must be carefully weeded, and the
spread of the little white clover plant must be espe-
cially guarded against. It grows very fast, and
will soon overrun a whole bed ; and a patch over-
run with clover, had better be dug up at once.

Strawberries are not choice as to soil. Almost
any moderately deep Garden-ground is suitable for
them."

" Owing to the high price Strawberries bring in the markets
of our cities, their culture has been, of late years, brought to
great perfection, by much experimenting upon their growth,
and wants. It is confidently stated in southern papers, that
by proper care. Strawberries may be made to produce a con-
tinuous succession of berries, from the time they first commence,

THE VEGETABLE-GAllDEN. 311

It is important that heels should not he kept too
long, as they deteriorate. They should he changed
entirely, at least every three years.

In regard to harren and fertile plants, we will
not attempt to give any lengthened explanation,
as the suhject has heen frequently spoken of hy
various writers. Mr. Elliot, in his excellent work
on "Fruit-trees," says on this suhject: "It is an
old saying, that every person enjoys some hohhy
on whicli to ride. Mr. N. Longworth, of Cincinnati,

in early summer, until the close of autumn. This very desi-
rable result is said to have been brought about by constant
and regular watering of the plants. "Vegetable manure only,
and plenty of water morning and evening," says a report on the
subject, " will (in the opinion of the gentleman who published an
account of the experiment, a South Carolinian), produce a con-
tinuous crop of Strawberries, anywhere in the Middle, Western
and Southern States." Animal manure is said to be highly
injurious, as it fosters a natural tendency to run altogether
to vines. "We have not yet seen or heard of any one in the
Western or Middle States, who has experimented in this newly
suggested treatment, and can not, therefore, vouch for its appli-
cability to the latitude of the Middle States; we give it for
what it is worth, hoping that some of the readers of this work
will give the plan a trial.

312 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

has received the credit of starting the hohby of
(in common phrase) male and female Strawberry
blossoms, and so vigorously has the hobby been
ridden, that with locomotive power and speed, it
has found its way into every journal in the country,
whether horticultural or otherwise ; and so generally
is the distinction of Staminate (male) and Pistillate
(female) flowers understood, that we do not deem
it necessary here to re-describe."

The same author further remarks, " With this
understanding, therefore, that varieties are continu-
ally produced, in which one organ is most promi-
nently developed, and measurably to the destruction
of the whole, as a fruit-bearing flower, it has become
a requisite, in planting, to secure such portions of
fruit-bearing or pistillate plants, with the fructifying
or staminate varieties, as to return the desired yield
of fruit. The Pistillates being regarded as the
female, are counted valuable in newly formed beds,
as of ten to one of staminates or males."

The following varieties have been selected and
pronounced the very cream of all sorts of Straw-
berries, by the same author :

Burr's New Pine. — Fl. pistillate : very productive.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 313

Western Queen. — Flowers pistillate ; very pro-
ductive.

Longworthh Prolific. — Flowers Hermaphrodite ;
productive, regular and sure Learer.

McAvoy^s Superior. — Flowers pistillate ; fruit very
large.

Jennet's Seedling. — Eipening late; flowers pis-
tillate; very productive (3,200 quarts liaviug been
gathered from less than three-quarters of an acre).

Prolific Hautboy.

Beside these choicest kiuds, we would mention
two other kinds, universally esteemed and most
extensively cultivated :

Hovey^s idling. — Flowers pistillate ; productive
and very early,

Hudson — Pistillate; more extensively cultivated
than any other variety. It ripens later than others.

Eich, deep, loamy, inclining to clayey soils,
are generally found to produce the largest berries,
as well as most in quantity.

Trenches two feet wide and two feet deep,
with one foot of straw or leaves laid in the bot-
tom, and filled up with good soil, well repay the
labor in the extra crop produced. Wet ground,

314 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

wliere water stands after rains, or springy, cold
soils, should never be selected."

FORCING.

Forcing Vegetables, under glass, is one of the
most important operations in gardening. It is very
largely carried on, and is a profitable business in
the neighborhood of all large cities, where it is in
the hands of professional gardeners. In private Gar-
dens, where no regular gardener is employed, it is
of course carried on on a smaller scale, and only
to forward, in early spring, the few plants, as Cab-
bages, Tomatoes, etc., which could not otherwise be
planted until early summer.

Forcing is a department of gardening of itself,
and we shall not attempt more, in this article, than
to give some plain directions for the guidance of
the amateur.

There are two ways of forcing Vegetables, viz :
in Hotbeds, where artificial heat is produced by the
fermentation of manure, and in Qold-heds, where a
sufficient degree of heat is produced by the action
of the sun throwing his rays through the glass.

THE VEGETABLE-GAKDEN. 315

Bbtbeds, can be made at an}- time during- the win-
ter, wliile Cold-beds can only he started in spring,
when the sun's rays are more powerful than in
winter.

For Hotbeds, the frames are made of rough
boards, to suit the size of the sashes. They are
set on a bed of fresh horse manure, which has been
well tramped down and made level. The best of
ground is filled on the bed of manure, six to
eight inches deep, after which the sashes are put
on the frame. A few days are required to break
the brisk heat of the bed. After the ground has
acquired a mild heat, the seed may be sown. Much
care is required when the seed is coming up ; if the
weather is favorable, air must be freely admitted,
else the tender plants are in danger of damping
up. When they have attained the hight of an
inch or two, another bed or sash should be ready,
into which to transplant them. In the new bed
they should stand two inches apart each wa}'. In
tliis way the plants, for most of the Vegetables
which have finally to be transplanted into the
Garden, may be raised. Tomato-plants require to
be transplanted frequently, else they grow too high

316 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

and weak. Salad may be planted in the same way
as mentioned above. A bed stocked with Lettuce,
will supply a family a whole season. Kadishes,
in hotbeds, require much air ; they are, to the
unexperienced planter, a very uncertain crop. It is
more advisable to raise them in cold-beds.

For particulars on hotbed culture, see works
especially treating on the subject ; it is not the
intention of the present book to occupy this ground,
which is indeed a very extensive one, and difficult
to explain without explanatory engravings.

The management of cold-beds is less difficult.
They may be started about the middle of February,
according to the weather. A bed of the very best
and finest of ground should be prepared in the fall,
and kept covered over winter, to have it in readi-
ness in spring. A frame covered with sashes is
then put over the bed. On a mild day, sow the
seed of Kadishes, Cabbage, or whatever is designed,
in the ground, or plant out some stronger plants
reared in the hotbed. The bed should be pro-
tected from frost by sufficiently surrounding its
sides Avith manure, and covering the sashes with
straw mats or boards. Plants raised in cold-beds

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 317

are naturally much stronger than hotbed plants,
but come on somewhat later than the latter. In
March and April the plants will grow very rapidly;
they should freely enjoy the mild, fresh air, and
in case of warm showers, the sashes should be
taken off.

Forcing-hech, should be placed in the warmest
spot in the Vegetable-garden. If possible, they
should be sheltered against north and west winds,
by a tight fence or wall. They must have an
aspect to the south, and a fine exposure to the
sun's rays.

RAISING SEED.

Two rules are to be strictly observed in rais-
ing seed :

1. Never to plant related kinds of Vegetables
near each other, when it is desired to obtain seed
from either.

2. Always to select the best fruits, roots, or
plants of each kind for seed.

The related kinds, if going to seed near each
other, will frequently deteriorate ; thus, if two

318 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAKDENING.

varieties of Eadislies, Beets, Turnips, etc., are planted
together, tlie seed of either will produce many differ-
ent varieties, which are not to be relied on.

A certain part of a row of Peas or Beans should
be selected when in fruit, and set apart for seed.
Thus the plants will produce a full crop of fruit,
which is taken home when fully matured and per-
fected. To save only the last, which is always
the poorest, for seed, is bad policy, and no good
seed can be thus obtained.

Of Tomatoes, Eggplants, Peppers, Melons, Cucum-
bers, and Corn, the earliest and largest fruit should
be saved for seed.

Prom a patch of late Cabbage, the best, full-
est, and hardest heads should be selected, well taken
care of over winter, and planted out in spring.
The seed of the main stem is far preferable to
that of the lower side-branches. Early Cabbage
and Cauliflower seed is mostly all imported from
England, our climate being unftivorable for per-
fecting the seeds of those varieties.

Greens, as Kale, Spinach, etc., run to seed in
early summer, when the tops are cut down and
saved.

THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 319

Of Lettuce, the best heads are saved for seed ;
all the rest should be removed before goino- to
seed. Endive is planted out in spring for the
production of seed.

Roots, for seed, should be selected with especial
care. The round-rooted Vegetables, as Eadishes,
Beets, and Turnips, should be well shaped, having
but one thin and short root (tail) ; all forked roots
are unfit for seed. The long-rooted kinds, as
Carrot, Parsnip, Salsify, Blood-beet, etc., must be of
straight and uniform shape, having but one root ;
no forked Carrot, Beet, or Parsnip, should be planted
out for seed. The roots, except early Eadishes,
are all to be kept over winter and planted out
in spring.

The Onions set apart for seed should be of
large and flat shape. The careless seed-grower
indiscriminately plants all that comes to his hands,
and thus a great quantity of worthless seed is
produced yearly, and palmed ofl:' upon the public
as a first-rate article.

INCLOSURES.

FENCING, HEDGE-PLANTING, ETC.

As a substantial and permanent Inclosure is
indispensably necessary to the safety of any place,
we desire to make a few remarks on the mate-
rial of whick tkey should be composed, and on
their relation to the scenery which they surround.

Owing to the scarcity of suitable rail timber,

and the high prices of fencing lumber, in many

parts of the country, public attention has, of late,

been directed to the cultivation of Hedges, to which

a plant indigenous to this hemisphere, the Osage

Orange ( Madura aurantiaca ), is peculiarly well

adapted. Many experiments have been made with

this plant, and it is now a well-established fact, that,

by proper management, it will make a dense, strong,

and permanent living fence, equal to any Euro-
(320)

INCLOSUKES. 321

pean thorn hedge, and far superior to other inclo-
sures constructed of wood. Hedge planting, where
performed without due understanding and precau-
tion, will not naturally be attended by favorable
results, which is the reason why some men, disap-
pointed after the first trial, have dropped the sub-
ject, and openly pronounced the whole a humbug
of the day.

It would be useless for us to give any lengthened
details on the cultivation of Hedges, in this volume,
as sufficient light has been thrown on the subject,
by the various writings of practical men ; we will,
however, mention three fundamental points, acknowl-
edged by all writers and practitioners, to be neces-
sary for the successful cultivation of the Osage
Orange, viz: The careful preparation of the ground
before planting; a sufficiency of plants in each
row, and the proper attention in pruning and trim-
ming, especially during the first years of its growth.
If these three things are well attended to, hedge
planting will, in most cases, prove satisfactory, as
so many beautiful specimens of young Hedges
throughout the country may testify.

A place pretending to be a Garden, should be

822 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

provided witli a snlbstantial inclosure, whose shape
aud appearance are in accordance with the degree of
elegance of the whole premises. To surround a
well-kept Pleasure-ground with a heavy rail fence,
or a scanty-looking board fence, w^ould surely be a
grave fault against all relative fitness. Whether
a board or paling fence, or an iron railing, it should
please the eye by its well-finished workmanship.

A w^ell-trained Hedge, is undoubtedly a suitable
inclosure for such a place ; and though its clipped
shape may not be in conformity with the natural
groups and forms of the inside, yet its presence
w^ill be fully justified by the sense of its necessity
to protect them properly from the encroachment of
outsiders — man or beast.

A rage for the "picturesque" obtaining, with
some gardeners and improvers, has induced them
to try their skill, even on the cultivation of Pic-
turesque Hedges. The system of hap-hazard mix-
ture, is said to produce wonderful effects on hedges.
Let flowering shrubs, as Eoses, Snowballs, etc., be
set between the plants composing the body of the
hedge, and let these shrubs attain a natural form;
to break the uniform top line, this is one of the

INCLOSURES. 323

recipes to form a picturesque Hedge. We would
hesitate to try an experiment of this sort on a
large scale, as we consider the pictu7'e§que, and a
hedge, to bo two extremes in the economy of plan-
tation, which can never he harmoniously brought
together. Wc remember to have seen wild-o-row-
ing, and completely neglected hedges, but we never
thought of calling snch ^^ incturcsque."

Another pattern of picturescjueness, in hedging,
is to choose a serpentine line, in the place of the
old-fashioned straight line, generally met Avith in
hedges. It is useless to say anything against such
a picturesque taste — which can only gratify the
notions of the adopter, and disgust everybody else.

A hedge, when ornamented with fanciful feathers,
is sure to lose, beside its usefulness, its reasonable
sense of necessity, which alone excuses its stiff
form, and justifies its presence ; it should not pre-
tend to be any more than what it really is — a
permanent line of separation.

To conceal the boundaries and fences as much
as possible, is a rule generally acknowledged in
Landscape Gardening. This is done to give a natu-
ral freedom to the scenery, and to hide the ugly

324 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

shape of fences. The smallness of many places,
also, may even make it desirahle, to give an idea
of greater extent of property.

In the parks of Europe, often containing thou-
sands of acres, and surrounded hy a large tract
of land, also controlled by the proprietor, it is an
easy matter to give an idea of an unbounded
range of property, by expelling all unsightly boun-
dary fences. It is there the duty of the Landscape
Gardener, to use every means in his power to
impress the beholder with the magnitude of the
wide-spreading domains of his employer. Mr. Eep-
ton recommends, in one instance, that every mile-
stone, and every tavern-stand round about, should
be stamped with the arms of a certain nobleman.
Deceptions and impositions in this way, would prove
useless and ridiculous in a republican country like
ours, where no one acknowledges in his neighbor
the right to domineer, and where real estate re-
peatedly undergoes the process of speculation, and
consequently is divided and re-divided. The pass-
ing crowd find it difficult to believe that all tlieir
eyes behold, for many miles round, is the prop-
erty of a single individual.

-«► INCLOSURES. 325

To give an idea of unbounded property, should
in no- case be attempted, wliere everything around
contradicts it. On the other hand, it is very com-
mon for us to see a proprietor employ, beside a
Landscape Gardener, a whitewasher ^■■' also, who is
set to work to whitewash the entire boundary-
fence, to make it conspicuous, and to show to behold-
ers at a distance, the extent of the patch under
his control.

We feel somewhat doubtful whether this is in
harmony with a correct taste, though no one will
dispute that painting, or even whitewashing of the
most conspicuous part of a neat boundary-fence,
along the highway, or otherwise, is desirable and
even necessary.

Proper attention should also be paid to a neat
and tasteful entrance-gate. The fence and gate
should, under all circumstances, be congruous to
one another, and collectively to the whole grounds.

A Gate-Lodge, built in a plain, yet neverthe-
less tasteful style, will add considerably to the

*•' Whitewasliing the steins of noble forest-trees in the garden,
betrays a want of taste.

326 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GAEDENING.

importance of tlie entrance, and more yet to the
safety of the premises, if occupied by a trust-
worthy keeper.

Fences are necessary to divide the various de-
partments of the premises from one another. Thus
the parterre of Flowers surrounding the house, if
situated on a terrace, should have a protection-
"balustrade, which might very appropriately be orna-
mented with Flower Vases, and should in all cases
be elegant and of a tasteful pattern.

The Pleasure-ground should be divided from the
Park by a line of separation, to keep the cattle
and sheep at a proper distance from the Flowers
and Shrubbery which embellish the scenery round
the mansion. This line, however, should not be
made conspicuous, by a heavy board fence or stiff
hedge, as this would divide the ground into two
scenes, which ought to be but one — diflPering one
from the other only in the degree of elegance and
high keeping; the pleasure-ground being but a
beautifiilly-polished foreground, to the wide-spread-
ing, picturesque scenes of the Park.

To this end two kinds of Fences may be chosen ;
a wire fence, painted green, which is scarcely visi-

mcLOSURES. 327

ble from a distance, or a sunk fence, often called,
Ha-lia. The sunk fence is built on the same prin-
ciple as a common board fence; it is set in a
trench, with slanting sides, having the same depth
as the intended Fence. Thus two lawns, of which
the one is kept under the scythe, and the other
grazed by cattle, will appear to be one scene, ani-
mated by the movement of the animals, which are,
nevertheless kept at a proper distance from the
habitation of the proprietor.

It is evident that a wire or sunk Fence, is
only necessary at such points, as are open to the
eye, as the Lawn. In the thicker parts of masses
of Shrubbery and Trees, almost any common fence
will do, if not visible from a distance. Where a
Pleasure-ground is bounded by tilled fields, wdiich
is often the case in the country, it should natu-
rally, also, be divided by a Fence ; which, if respect-
able-looking, will not be objectionable.

The Groves of Trees and masses of Shrubbery
of the pleasure-ground, should not be harshly cut
oif at this fence, but should occasionally extend
beyond it, while detached clumps of trees may be
set at some distance from them, in the field, to

328 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

give some contiuuity to the scenes of tlie pleasure-
ground.

The Vegetable-garden, also, must he secured by
a boundary Fence. For this purpose a hedge may
be chosen, or which will be more economical, a
hoard fence might be made, on which Grape-vines
may be trained.

The masses of plantation in a Park, when newly
set out, must be surrounded by a temporary Fence,
as long as the trees are small, if it is desired to
pasture cattle on the lawns. Such fences may
be removed as soon as the trees have attained
sufficient strength to resist the encroachment of
animals.

THE END.

4^

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9?

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