jh ‘i ~ at? f ei Kf “Macnee Po thes Pe. Sl re hd Se DL, EEA ey FM * 5 - . i ul . TA, j ; . 7M ‘ ‘(-. Ney . . “< 4 4 ns va 2 . ss * ‘% ‘ “ ? i ' : aoe any ‘ 7 3 ’ _ * ou ae ; a , < cf - U - : i \ a, , _ -* = - Je Y eS: | F *.: ‘+ : ' . . “a Practical Taxidermy, AND HOME DECORATION; TOGETHER WITH GENERAL INFORMATION FOR SPORTSMEN, BY JOSEPH H. BATTY, TAXIDERMIST FOR THE HAYDEN EXPEDITION, AND OTHER GOVERNMENT SURVEYS AND MANY OF THE LEADING COLLEGES AND MUSEUMS IN THE UNITED STATES. AUTHOR OF ‘‘ HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP,” ETC., ETC. 125 ILLUSTRATIONS. NEW LOR K : ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 45 BROADWAY. 1880. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by the ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. TO Pe iitenh.- HOR SF ORD, MY EARLY INSTRUCTOR IN TAXIDERMY, AND SYMPATHETIC FRIEND IN BOYHOOD, THIS BOOK IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. EeRPPE CR ee eee ee ene eae on aaah Cie eee wm cain Wes SOS aig Melee ewew se 7 Phere AMMOUNeEEMeOM GL. ica. nae cain ew cian Selassie os ee eee g CHAPTER I. ONENESS tee ee arene ta none ooh a.o,o cea ds el Sislcinisrawlcns oes 3.6, s ele'oira we 15 CHAPTER II. BBO VON ae etc ar ahct aaa, eile ort in siehcl eb @ o/a Ste. ove of Ss cine c/a violets lel ee 22 CHAPTER III. Pravelline:. ..o. 6. eee ee el aioie weietc nicht is.ai'c's olds 6). s 96's 0/8 elneeie wre ve 30 CHAPTER IY. BU tiee PEE EBLE ee WMI racine oe ap Merarn hdc) win Aaa ta w'G © Gale's o's'e Gow e/tece eoeb ea ce 33 CHAPTER V Guns and Cases for Collecting’... 00.6... 2 0c ccee ess Ser ataora eis stars aie os 42 CHAPTER VI. Rese TORIME CU EMNT Ste gern cote Siete ateres) tact sic iS. n) Porat aie, ca reese siete ala’e Sle wieGus ee 50 CHAPTER VII. Resear eta TUTTE eared oc aichnhs wiare, Bini. 0 6 wicfele Sac oe bi cie a. sieve ee wer 53 CHAPTER VIII. Prepares Animats? okine. for, Mounting. sce sec ce sees vacances 59 CHAPTER IX. Warbreserve a Buck 5 Head for Mounting)... 0.6.52. cs ccc eeerecces 65 CHAPTER X. . Vewipeve Winey OPENS sete 5 < tO a3! o's clare © W Sinje: sivlojeis co's Bee Sse'e.c obs» Me siele’s 76 CHAPTER XI, Ereparme, ang Mounting: Skeletons... 230.6. 2. sc e.ce cece cers sicees ae 86 CHAPTER XII. Collectine Birds se... cates lass cae sieirapae tase wi Ma. ota deis clereetaleicte se ieee 91 CHAPTER XIII. Preparing Bird Skins for Mounting................0.. Bcietetasatere ato eral 99 CHAPTER XIV. Mounting Birds with Closed Wing’s...............000. Se ceca adaeses 102 ; CHAPTER XV. Mounting Birds with Spread Wings...............6 oes Suse o ste tata 106 CHAPTER XVI. Memniine Dry Bird: Skins. s'... see desc ccna ccs ces MET aticoietsirse Tee 109 CHAPTER XVII. PUTIN OM LECAGS es aie soe wma o5\2 selec chine oe tye ba: Sata e(aetatomsvorn (ata 49 Peele OMCs 5. cacceesereses- «e100 IX Egg of the Baltimore Oriole........ 121 Hilky Group Obese a csua gett cee: Spee ul Mika Stricken settee oe nc oeek 156 Feather for Making Mats........ .. 197 Feather for TrimmingLambrequins.197 Feather for Trimming Cushions....196 Heathers Ornaments js.5 026 see, oe 199 Heather! for Trimming. 22... sea. 195 Hern SaimnOCKS. sere sere cle anil sere: 186 Ferns, Group of Native... . .. ...183 Hield’ Mice; AsGroup off. 22-2. << 149 Fire-Lighting, or ‘* Jacking’? Ducks 97 Fish Properly Mounted............ 129 MUS SAN! case cote cece sls octsssee 136 Moxiini ay Era py hes wes oe oe eeeeie sees 41 Hox. Stalking DiGks io) sec sable ale os 175 Fox Watching Rabbit 172 Hrame tormareeiNetee sc. jie: 144 SHRUB Swot cyerek Mes Coates che vanes ss slate at nie 126 IH PONGIS PIE CMa eacie se ie's eee tee ere 2 Grebe Correctly Mounted.......... 102 Grouse gy ELUN GIy. cee ais» ceaiaeee ie 52 Gun, ImprovedBaker... .......... 45 Gun-Case> Vilcloria. occ... 3.6 esee- 47 Gun-Sling for Saddle .............. 51 Hadrosaurus, Skeleton of the...... 87 Hares little: Chieis 2 3.25. ucesno. 55 Hawks Properly Mounted....... .. 107 Head of Downy Woodpecker....... 112 Head of Muskellonge Mounted. ....133 Hermit Crab in Sea-Shell........... 138 13 hrvecvooyyavend 331N0 OE So apaeedaesbe nae Bee 111 Humming Bird’s Nest .o2..--.) =-. 200 Legging, Long Canvas............. 18 Legging, Short Canvas............. 18 TAVIS Se SeledaesoopsocosnedagescaEc 67 Manner of Wiring Small Animals. 82 Medallion. Wild Goose Head....... 112 Molds for Casting Heads........... 66 Moti, Promethia,. oo 2. Ss c0<<- 2. >- 140 Moth Properly Mounted............ 145 INamtilids) VaSCtermincs os sces eicciels «a. 178 INGCCKMOAER 26. Once ices cticcaees case 69 Nest of Baltimore Oriole...... See ieeel xX ILLUSTRATIONS. INGE ASMA es oe wtyswre's srectlaisioe sins 148 Ornithological Parts of a Bird...... 176 Patterns for Shields..........-..... 113 IPECCATICR cc reso cee eee eee 83 Peregrine,Falcon,and Mallard Duck 98 Pin-Tail Duck Properly Mounted. ..104 PLOLEEAILION-A TLUNOL seers eter tartaric 13 Position of Ironsina Large Animal. 79 Ram's Heads. 20s 5.2 ) sccnseaceisemer 169 RElOAMet esc coe ce eames ae eee 43 Rifle, Winchester Improved........ 42 Rocky Mountains, Travelling in the 30 Seals, Common or Harbor.......... Ry Sea-Shell 2 :eaoes2t Sega eee 182 Sea-WLCHIN owns vein eciye Sane seme 1385 Shell, Metal ;.<; ce. cueceueeacieee eee 44 Shell Paper .ceese Uigsae oan eles Sette 44 Shoe, Patent Hunting. .2............ 16 shrews; -AvGroup'Of 2 nce... ot Skin Properly Made........ Bec 100 Skin Ready for Re-turning........ 108 TOW SCENE acess sorcerer 163- Spray of Hickory Leaves...........187 Spruce Grouse, Group of........... 148 Prappine! aH Ox... .cecesee wile 35 Trap) Grown deeseraast cess he ies clas 34 Wiater Ouzelsriss san entcce ane stsen clot 93 Woodcock on Shield............... 114 Yacht, Dravelling by; <2. «... =. PUBLISHERS’ ANNOUNCEMENT. JosEPH H. Barry, the author of this volume, has de- voted sixteen years of active life to the work of collecting and preserving animals, birds, fishes, ete. He was the Official Taxidermist of the Northern Boundary Survey, and also of the United States Geological Survey, under Dr. Hayden—generally known as the Hayden Expedi- tion. Mr. Batty has, likewise, been for many years Tax- idermist for several of our leading Universities, Colleges, Museums, and Public Parks. His work entitled, ‘‘ How to Hunt and Trap,” pub- lished some eighteen months since, has received the warmest encomiums from recognized authorities, and from both the American and the European press. We anticipate a still more flattering reception for this vol- ume, which is the result of long experience and practice, and conveys a vast amount of information on the subjects treated, not hitherto embodied in book form. There is no similar work in existence. While Coues and Maynard have devoted some space in their writings to Taxidermy, they have merely touched upon branches which are fully treated in this book. The appreciation and love of ‘‘ Home Decoration” increase with the growing taste and culture of the American people. Our author’s chapters upon this sub- ject are very timely, and will be keenly appreciated, especially by ladies. XI PREFACH. Good books on Taxidermy are not so common that I need hesitate to venture into print with a few directions of my own, written from practice and experience ; and in so doing I may remark that, with careful observance of instructions given, the student can make the art both a profitable and a delightful recreation. The mere skinning and stuffing of a specimen is but a small portion of the Taxidermist’s real work or pleasure. The hand must be turned to the making of cases, and the eye trained to the blending of colors. ‘Taste must be cultivated and exhibited in modelling and molding, and Nature’s beauties should be imitated as closely as pos- sible. Artificial rocks can be made to look as natural as the moss-grown specimens in the woods, and trees can be formed as graceful as those in their native forests. With the growing fondness for Taxidermy, many la- dies are endeavoring to master the art, and in the variety of work necessary to perfect it, feminine taste and skill can be brought effectively into play. The collector can learn to mount his own specimens, the schoolboy his game, and in the general household, a buck’s head in the dining-room, or a bright oriole in the parlor, presents a pleasing contrast to other ornaments. ds He. XII 1) = i Mi n: get sf HN Mestah f WINGO OUR AUTHOR IN COSTUME. PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. Cab Ae an Roi, OUTFITTING. Naturalists, as a rule, are hard workers, and in their enthusiasm often fail to make suitable preparations for an extended tour. In obtaining full collections, one can have but little choice of climate or surface, and as there is much to tax the strength, even under favorable circumstances, clothing, bedding, and food, should be most carefully looked after. Heavy, soft under-clothing, and thick woollen overshirts are essential to comfort, and the buckskin shirt and breeches are far preferable to the skirted coat or woollen pants. A soldier’s ‘‘caped” overcoat is desirable when hunting at night, and it provides a warm coyerlet when bedding is scanty. Thick woollen mittens worn over woollen gloves make the warmest and lightest covering for the hands, though buckskin gloves can be worn in chopping, as the exercise produces circulation. In wear- ing mittens in hunting, the forefinger should have a stall, to facilitate the use of the trigger. In a dry country, or at the north in winter, moccasins or larigans (shoe-packs) should be worn on the feet. Blanket footings wrapped over woollen socks, together with a little hay in the bottom of shoes, will prevent bruises, and in the severest weather protect the feet from frost. 15 16 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. In a rocky or damp country, heavy shoes or boots are required, and in mountainous regions those studded with iron nails. The Improved Patent Shoe for sportsmen’s use is the best.* It holds the foot firmly by the self-adjust- ing straps over the instep and around the ankle, which is a very quick and convenient mode of fastening. This shoe is made of brown and black Bismarck grain leather, and is water-tight to the top. For rough work, wet travel- ling, or when in the saddle, laced boots of English grain leather are decidedly the most serviceable and comfort- able. The nails with which they are studded prevent slipping, and the strap at the top and laces over the in- step keep the leg of the boot from dropping. The lacing also causes the boots to fit so snugly that the legs can: not settle into large folds and chafe the ankle, and the heel does not slip and blister the skin. If by accident one gets in water over the tops, these boots can be easily loosened at the ankle and taken off, while the ordinary boot would be removed with great difficulty. Leggings of canvas are light, and will do good service, particularly in wet grass, high weeds, and thick bushes. While being serviceable in protecting the limbs, they likewise give elasticity to the hunter’s step, and do not annoyingly catch on twigs, as do breeches. One can with them noiselessly thread his way through the woods when still hunting, and they are of excellent service when moc- casins or shoe-packs are worn. PATENT HUNTING SHOE. * Any further information desired concerning this shoe. or other sportsman’s accoutrements, guns, etc., alluded to in this volume, can be obtained by writing to the Publishers. OUTFITTING. Ly Long leggings are most comfortable for winter use. When wearing short ones, snow gets in at the tops, melts, and often chills the hunter when not exercising. Short leggings are desirable for summer and fall use, especially pS LACED HUNTING BOOTS. on the plains. White ones worn in snow, and brown ones on bare ground, are least conspicuous. Leggings are made with a variety of fastenings, being buckled, buttoned, laced, and tied. Laced leggings are least troublesome, and can always be kept tight, while other fastenings often become stretched and loose. Heavy leather leggings, as a rule, are hot, uncomfortable, and burdensome. If leg coverings of leather are preferred, it is best to wear high top-boots. Rubber apparel is bur- 18 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. densome, generally not conducive to health, and should be worn only for wading and fording, or on rainy days. A light slouched hat should be worn in the summer sun, and a warm skull cap in the winter. Four long SHORT CANVAS LEGGING. heavy California blankets should be taken for bed- ding, together with a small pillow and large poncho or a piece of canvas. The pon- cho should be laid under the bedding, in camp, and used for a wrapper in travelling. All the bedding should be rolled in a convenient pack, and bound together with three soft leather straps. If of extra length, the latter will be found useful in hang- ing or packing game, making rafts, slinging guns, ete. As large quantities of provisions as can be easily trans- ported should be taken, and the variety should consist of flour, grits, rice, hominy, bacon, dried fruits, tea, coffee, LONG CANVAS LEGGING. OUTFITTING. 19 sugar, condensed milk, baking powder, salt, pepper, and a keg of molasses or syrup. ‘The traveller usually finds meat in the woods, and with rifle, shot-gun, and traps, can surely secure it. Sundries, such as sperm candles, needies, pins, thread, soap, tooth-brush, comb, and towels, are needed, and horse-nair and wire shouid be taken for snares. An axe, hatchet, aud whetstone will be constantly used, and a Ti A CAMP BAKER, CLOSED. LN sa water-proof match-box, or a flint and steel, is a necessity. One may meet with an accident, or find himself ‘‘ under the weather,” and as physicians are generally not to be had in camp life, court plaster, cathartic pills, quinine, and Dover’s powders should always be kept about the person or in camp. The cooking utensils should consist of a camp baker, CAMP BAKER, OPEN. tin cups, plates, knives, forks, spoons, frying pan, and camp kettles, and two iron rods to make stands in the 20 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. fire. The folding camp baker is a convenient article for use. To do good service, it must be kept clean and bright. The new folding rubber pail will likewise be found useful, especially in cold weather. The collector’s kit for preparing and preserving speci- mens, is simple, and a small chest will compactly carry it. A set of instruments consists of a large and small scalpel or cartilage knife, crooked scissors, small tweezers, long and short forceps, brain spoon, needles and thread, and a pair of strong cutting-forceps to facilitate the removal ae! \ ll Tm. am a\\\ MZ ie \ {| \ NPA anyones ya \i ( \ 7, ING ISG q\ WHA Ii V 44 i PLT t, it, SNK , e\\ XY \(SSz Ww Lh Mh pit “af Hy Ms Mb ie W// KZ PECCARIES. 83 <é Ms 4 a =" & = + * . = i 7 A Fe . ows 7 F = it — * vl . re i + ine = bene - =" al = > . 7 : Md row 9 i 5 ‘ 7 7 si s = ; ey, < = \ = 4 - ’ , > = = = ' s ‘ . = : re i j a. “ ‘ i el * na é 4. - - “ % ¢ 7 4 a ~ oe a. 3 x ot ; a ¥ i ‘ io - f ' F - ~ \ ng 7 - La 7 = _ a = Fos > ‘. =, { = 7 * 2 a - . 7 : - ‘Ss er i . = . ; = é cn 7 ' uf t a < * 1 : = 1 e { - mil 3 al : : : Ms ae ‘4 A i : ‘ ie q : ‘ ‘ 4 P S _ ni “ : ‘o 4 ms MY 6 = if . © =. J ad ‘ = Da : < sida i E ‘ - * : 1 ~ = : . 2 « - << 7 - \ J Ca 2 i x i G 7 \ a , — 2 . n ; - F ' , > aes s i ‘ a 9 a . = : ‘ . . i - > ‘ ; , =) « mi = . ry —— R ‘ ‘5 > 1 : 5 ’ r ‘a > r . - aly “ " — , ye = . - . . ’ i # 7 ee - «. 4 - 2 bs . BY : nm ‘ . + E > * ~ . i 7 * . 7 ' rs + ' ‘ 7 . ® Re i MOUNTING ANIMALS. 85 the skulls. Where the leg-bones would naturally join the spinal column, two rings are twisted in the neck- wire, through which the leg-wires are run, and twisted firmly around the neck-wire, meeting or overlapping be- tween the rmgs. When the skull is attached to the skin, as is usually the case in small animals, 1t is roughly modelled with potter’s clay before the skin is turned over it. Owing to the connection of the skin and skull, the head is easily modelled, and the eyes are readily set. The body is bent in position, and filled out, prior to being mounted on a stand. An experienced taxidermist can do fine mounting by casting an animal in parts, of plaster, and putting a flat skin over the cast. In perfecting the anatomy of large animals, it is often necessary to sew through the legs, and to run bent wires into the body at different points. No rules can be given for this kind of work. The learner must rely upon his own judgment in bringing out muscles, and perfecting the general form. Animals mouths may be ‘‘ done” open in wax, and shaded in dry colors, rubbed in, and the whole varnished. Skins of all animals should be soft and phable before mounted. Dry skins should be well immersed in pickle, and be thoroughly cleaned. During cold weather, well- cured skins may be placed in pure cold water a day or two to soften, as it softens them much quicker than pickle will. All skins need to be well tanned in a brine of alum, salt, and saltpetre, to set and clean the hair before they are mounted. 86 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. CHAPTER “XT. PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. Cleaning bones is unpleasant labor, and collectors do not engage in it with the same enthusiasm which they feel ‘in preparing other specimens. Zodlogists, however, who know the scientific value of a good skeleton, will work eagerly and industriously, when a rare mammal’s frame is to be had for the cleaning. The amount of labor required to prepare a skeleton, is over ten-fold that of mounting the skin, though, when once cleaned and artificially artic- ulated, in a scientific way, it becomes the most valuable part of the animal. When travelling by pack-train, and canoe, I have often had my patience tried with the care of skeletons, and the great majority of hunters and collectors cannot be inter- ested in skeletology. In the air of the plains, an animal’s frame will dry un- tainted, if trimmed closely with a knife ; but in the East, or, in the mountains of the West, skeletons should be thoroughly cleaned at once, or they soon become offensive. The frames of various animals are so different in sub- stance and articulation, that no general rule can be given for preparing them. Wire and cement are used in artifici- ally articulating small skeletons, and heavy irons, pins, and bolts, are employed in mounting large ones. In cleaning the frame of any animal, watch the bones, particularly when separated. At an unguarded moment, dogs, cats, rodents, and birds, will destroy or carry them off, and careless companions will break or lose them. In caring for old skeletons, watch the teeth and claws, to see that they do not fall from the skulls or tender pelts. PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 87 To clean a large skeleton, carefully unjoint the first cervical vertebra from the occipital bone. Remove the brains without disfiguring the occipital orifice, and clean off all flesh, without injuring the two small bones at the root of the tongue, and the gristle about the passages of the nose. Sever the shoulders from the trunk, by drawing the knife between the scapulars and thorax. Unjoint the hams from the hip- bone. Clean the legs by splitting the flesh to the bone on one side, and remove it in as large pieces as possible, inasmuch as it will leave the bone easier than when removed in : small flakes.- Un- joint the cervical = vertebree from the SKELETON OF THE HADROSAURUS. thorax, and clean both by constant trimming with a knife. Great care should be exercised in cleaning the chest, so that the small gristly elastic ends of the ribs are not cut. . Skeletons can be most substantially prepared with- out boiling, or the use of lime, though more labor may be required. When preparing a fresh skeleton, vigorously rub the bones with sawdust. It will remove small parti- cles of flesh, and is a good dryer. It is necessary to sep- 8 1o 6) PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. arate the bones of a large skeleton, to clean them, and the larger bones should be exposed to the sun, then stripped and carefully scraped. The spinal. column requires more labor in cleaning, than the rest of the skeleton, on account of its inconven- ient shape and the work of removing the tough tissues which connect the vertebree. The quickest and best way to prepare a skeleton, is to sink it in the sea, if practicable, in a small-meshed net bag, with a buoy to indicate its location. The thousands of small marine animals will clean out every cavity more rapidly and thoroughly than man can do the work. The Bay of Fundy is one of the most favorable places in the world for preparing skeletons. I have completed the cleaning of very large seals in its waters, by sinking them for a period of twenty-four hours only. So numerous and voracious are the marine animals, that the frame of a large fish will be bared in a single night. Portions of a skeleton may also be buried in an ant-hill, and the occupants will soon clean the bones. If the skeletol- ogist is preparing his collections where marine animals or ants cannot be utilized, and he wishes to accomplish his work quickly, he will have to resort to boiling. The bones should be cleaned with a knife, and then boiled until every particle of flesh leaves them. During the process, the water should be frequently changed, so that the grease will not settle in and discolor the skeleton. The bones should be slowly boiled at first, and for several hours, before the flesh begins to leave them. They should occasionally be taken from the pot, and loose particles re- moved, in order to hasten the work. Boiling frequently causes the caps of the larger bones to come off, and weak- ens the skeleton generally. Bones may be bleached by placing them in a lime-bath and exposing tothe sun. I do not recommend the use of lime, as it eats the enamel of the bones. Cold water and PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 89 a hot summer’s sun will bleach sufficiently, and frost will assist in winter. Small skeletons may be cleaned by placing them in water, and removing the decomposed flesh with a stiff brush. The best way to prepare them, however, is with the help of marine animals, ants, and dermestes, as de- scribed above. Large skeletons are generally mounted on a galvanized iron frame, articulated with brass wires. No general rule can be given which will apply to mounting all skele- tons, as they vary greatly in size and form. To mount a large skeleton of a ruminant, string the vertebrae on a metal rod running into the occipital orifice through the top of the skull. Fasten with a nut, and support the whole by two upright rods connecting with the artificial spinal cord between the forelegs and hindlegs. The scapulars, leg, and other bones, must be attached in their proper positions, by drill- ing small holes through the bones, and connecting them in various rastentne Ways. ‘The taxidermist must use pasrentne ae his Own judement.om dralline: and "AU rONEe. fastening, placing the wires where they will hold best and be the least observed. A bow-drill is most useful in making holes, and the bits should be sharp, and taper inwards, back from the cutting edges, so that when used they will cut free and easy. To securely fasten small bones, drill and draw them into position by a piece of polished annealed wire through the holes, turning each end with round-nosed plers, in two or more rings, until the wire is sufficiently taken up. Wires proportionate to the size of the bones must be used. Pliers of various size to turn them are also necessary. 90 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. The joints of legs may be fastened by making a saw- kerf in the middle of the extremities of each bone, to re- ceive a strip of heavy sheet brass, with a hole in each end for the reception of pins. See illustration on the pre- ceding page. It is often necessary in mounting small skeletons to weave and twist very small wire about the ribs, in order to hold them in natural position. Whenever it is impor- tant to secure a bone in position, wire is generally used, except in fastening caps and.very small bones, in which case cement is preferable. COLLECTING BIRDS. ; 9] Core A. PE Hs se 21. COLLECTING BIRDS. The experience of ornithologists usually makes them careful hunters and good shots, yet, a few remarks on collecting may be of value to amateurs, particularly if thrown among a variety of species with which they are not acquainted. In general hunting for North American birds, No. 4 shot is heavy enough for the largest, if a gun is used that does not exceed ten pounds in weight, a No. 10 in bore. Nos. 1 and 2 shot may be used successfully for sea and lake shooting, with unusually heavy guns, built specially for such corn Many hunters use too small a charge of powder and too coarse shot. Muzzle-loading cylinder-bored guns will stand, and require more powder than the choke-bore breech-loaders, which are becoming so popular, particu- larly for trap-shooting. Before ‘‘ chilled” shot were used, the choke-bores were the best for long-range shooting, with soft shot. Now nearly equal results at long-range are obtained with cylinder bores and “chilled ” shot, and choke-bores and soft shot. Many trials of all kinds of guns, with various charges, have proved conclusively that cylinder-bores are the best for general shooting. “Chilled” shot can not be used in the average thin- muzzled choke-bore gun with killing charges without “bulging” and ruining the barrels. In shooting soft shot from a choke-bore gun, they are completely jammed out of their spherical form before they leave the weapon, and although they will quickly kill a bird at short range, they soon lose force, and do not penetrate or hold to- gether like ‘‘ chilled” shot, which retains nearly its orig- inal form after being fired. 92 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. Much of the success of the collector depends on having his gun properly charged. For shooting small birds, a light gun of small bore, loaded lightly with ordinary pasteboard wads will answer. For shooting large birds at long range, a heavy 12 or 10-bored gun is best, loaded with two of Eley’s pink-edge wads over the powder, and a light wad over the shot. Four or four and a half drams of powder, with an ounce and a quarter of shot, is a proper load for a solid 12-bore gun, and five and a half or six drams of powder, with an ounce and a half of shot, is a suitable charge for a heavy 10-bore gun. For general shooting with cylinder-bored guns, the ducking, or second grade powders, of medium grain, are the best. Moist powders appear to give the best ‘‘ pattern,” though when used in rapid firing with muzzle-loaders, miss fires are liable to occur. The first brands of American black powder, such as Dupont’s Diamond Grain, Hazard’s Electric, Laflin & Rand’s Orange Lightning, and the American Powder Co.’s Telegraph Sporting, are quick, dry powders, best adapted to breech-loading shot-guns. The various com- panies sell equal grades to the trade at about the same prices, but every collector has a favorite brand. There are are about 640 species of birds in North America, from the Mexican boundary to the Arctic Ocean, and the collector will be compelled to visit nearly every State and Territory to find them all. He will have to cruise both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts for sea- birds, scour the States on the Atlantic for many of the smaller species, camp on the barren plains of the West for the long-spurred buntings and other birds of the prairies, and climb the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains for the white-tailed ptarmigans, dusky grouse, water ouzels, etc. One often finds birds of the same genus at points thousands of miles apart. In field collecting, birds, when first shot, should be ' Vy , i Oe \ a ett i WATER OUZELS. COLLECTING BIRDS. 95 handled with great care, until the bodies stiffen, and the blood ceases to flow. When killed, they should be lifted by the legs, and the blood removed from the plumage by pressing it out with the blade of a dull knife. The blood may also be absorbed, by using fine sawdust, corn-meal, or bran. The plumage should be well shaken and arranged, and the specimen carefully carried until camp is reached. A large-sized fish-basket, slung from the shoulder, is the best receptacle for small birds. They may be buried in fine sawdust, wrapped in sheet-wadding, or placed heads down- ward in paper funnels. The funnels should extend be- yond the end of the tails, and so folded as to prevent the feathers from being cramped and disfigured. Large birds are troublesome to carry. They should be hung by the legs over the shoulder, where they will be of little inconvenience, and rest quietly without chafing the plumage. Birds with a soft plumage, and long wings and tails, are the most disfigured in transportation. Others with a hard plumage, such as ducks, divers, erebes, guillemots, etc., will stand rough handling and make up well in skins. The sexes of American birds of the same species, vary greatly in size and plumage, while others are precisely alike in plumage. With some, such as the ducks, grouse, crows, black-birds, and most of our bright-plumaged birds, the adult males are easily recognized by their large size and bright colors. With eagles, hawks, owls, gulls, sand-pipers, plovers, snipe, woodcock, etc., the females, though nearly like the males in plumage, are much larger in size, and adults may be easily recognized. Many species do not attain their full plumage until the third or fourth year, and nearly all sport a different dress for spring and autumn. ‘The spring plumage of nearly all species is bright and beautiful, while, with but few ex- 96 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. ceptions, the fall dress is of a dull color. The Baltimore oriole is one of the remarkable species which appear in August with a brighter, prettier plumage than in spring. The plumage of the ‘‘ young of the year,” or the young male of many species, often resembles the adult females ; in such instances, it is best to determinate the sex by dissection. The generative organs are much larger during the pairing season, than at any other period of the year. The seminal glands of a warbler are as large as a pea, in spring, when late in the autumn they are no larger than a No. 8 shot. The ovaries of female birds lie in the same relative position as the generative organs of the male, and are easily recognized, though in winter a small lens will be found useful in examination. The genera- tive organs lie close to and in the cavity of the spine, where the ribs commence. ‘The ovaries are two in num- ber, and one exceeds the other in size, particularly in the laying season. Good shooting is, so to speak, a natural gift, though with practice any one can become a fair shot. In close range rifle-shooting at a stationary mark, steady nerves, a keen eye, and practice, are all that are necessary. In shooting at moving objects, however, cal- culation is the key to success. In ordinary rifle-shooting, a steady pressure on the trigger brings the best results, but in using the shot-gun, much snap-shooting is neces- sary. There are two modes of shooting a crossing bird on the wing, viz., taking a snap-shot ahead of the bird, or coy- ering the beak, and discharging the gun with a steady pressure while following the object. The latter is the best and surest method, though, in early practice, ama- teurs will shoot behind the game. In shooting ducks and other birds of rapid flight that are fairly started on the wing, you must lead according COLLECTING BIRDS. 97 to the distance they may be away. A duck, going before the wind fifty yards distant, should be led from four to six feet, according to its speed. One rising from the water at forty yards, can be brought down by aiming at the end of the bill. A driving bird, or bird flying straight from the shoot- er, should be well covered, and the trigger pressed when the game has disappeared under the gun barrels. In general hunting, the collector will become accus- temed to the various sounds of the forest, and any strange note or noise will quickly attract his attention. RTs] Toa ~ umn a PREPARING BIRD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. 99 CHAPTER XIII. PREPARING BIKD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. In removing the skin from a bird, the body should be dusted from time to time with corn-meal, or fine saw- dust. This absorbs all moisture, and prevents the plu- mage from being soiled. Some writers recommend the use of plaster when skin- ning birds. That thisshould be effective is an erroneous idea, inasmuch as it dries the skins so quickly that it is difficult to ‘‘return” them. If applied to the necks of some species of woodpeckers and parrots, it would be im- possible to return them to their natural position. Plaster fills the pores of one’s skin, chaps and cracks the hands, and, when mixed with grease in preparing fat birds, it is removed only with great difficulty from the hands. Corn- meal softens the hands, and is the best absorbent when ‘“working on” small birds. When preparing a skin, place the bird on its back, and run a long piece of cotton loosely down the throat with forceps, or by twisting it around the end of a wire. If the specimen be a large bird, plug the nostrils with cot- ton, to prevent the saliva from oozing and soiling the plumage. Break the wing-bones near the body to fa- cilitate handling. Make a longitudinal cut from the breast-bone to the vent, and push the body away from the skin with the knife, holding the skin firmly be- tween the thumb and fingers of the left hand, and cut- ting as little as possible. When the skin has been removed far enough to expose the shins, shp them up and unjoint them at the knee, and cut through the flesh until the skin is lain bare. Flay down to the vent, cut off the extremity of the body which 100 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. holds the tail feathers, and remove the skin to the wings, cutting through them where broken. Flay to below the eyes, cut off the neck, close to the head, and remoye SKIN PROPERLY MADE. the triangular lower portion of the skull, taking out the brains. Remove the eyes, by sliding the brain-spoon under them, with a circular motion. Cut away all flesh from the skull, leg, and wing bones, unjointing the broken main bones of the wings from the double bones or fore-arms. In preparing some species of birds, with large heads and small necks, such as wood-ducks, green-wing teal, some species of woodpeckers, cockatoos, etc., it is best to open the scalp from the outside after the body has been severed from the skull and the skin returned. The incision may be made length- wise of the head, back of the eye, or along the top of the head; the latter mode is much more desirable for birds with crests. Pass a thread between the bones of both wings, and draw them nearly together, and tie in posi- tion. Dust the whole fleshy side of the skin freely with dry arsenic, crowd the eye-holes full of cot- ton, wrap the leg-bones with the same, draw them back in natural position, and return the skin. Should the neck become stretched, and difficult to return, soap will cause it to slip over the head readily. PREPARING BIRD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. 101 Smooth the plumage, fill out the body with stuffing, sew up the skin, cross the legs, tie them, and wrap the skin closely, in split sheet-cotton or thin paper. In filling out a skin, a piece of the stuffing should be made in a taper roll, and the small end pushed up into the throat of the bird. Other pieces should be laid in the body of the skin until it is full, previous to sewing it up. ‘This will prevent the neck of a bird from drawing © and drying in a long unnatural form. A drying-board will be found useful when making skins at home or in a permanent camp. It is made by gluing beveled pieces of thin, flat wood of the same size, on a board, equal distances apart. ly tl DRYING-BOARD. Pieces of heavy manilla paper are fitted between the cross- boards, and glued in position so as to form semi-cylin- drical gutters. In making drying-boards for large skins, tin may be used in place of paper, and tacked in position. Skins prepared for scientific use, should have a small tag attached to the legs, with the sex marked on one side, and the number of the skin on the other. A duplicate number should be entered in a note-book, where data can be written for reference. When skins are placed in a cabinet, a large label should be tied to each, giving the species, sex, locality, and date of collection. 102 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. CHAPTER XIV. MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED wINGs. If a bird is soiled with blood, wash the parts in cold water, and dry the plumage as much as possible with a cloth or sponge. Cover the wet feathers with calcined plaster, rubbing it lightly into the plumage until the feathers are dry and assume their natural appear- ance. ‘To remove the plaster from Ney the plumage, vig- i ne ‘N \ mdh A: oe ri = orously beat the oy “gins bird with the wing of a fowl or a brush-broom. Re- move the body in the same manner - as when prepar- - ing askin. Roll up a small ball of tow and crowd it tightly into the skull. Wind tow around a_ wire, pointed at both ends, until it be- comes about the length and size of a natural neck, leaving both ends sufficiently uncovered to clinch through the skull and body. Fasten the tow with thread or string, to keep it tight and in proper form. GREBE CORRECTLY MOUNTED, MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. 103 Pass the short end of the wire up through the tow and back of the skull, clinch firmly by repassing it through the fore part of the skull and fasten it through the eye- hole with a pair of round-nosed pliers. Fill out the eyes to nearly their natural size with putty or potter’s clay, and dust the whole fleshy side of the skin with dry arsenic, which is best applied with the hind foot of ahare. Fat birds, and particular- ly large ones, should have the skin well primed with arsenical soap. Between the wings and on the shoulders of the bird-skin, are two yellowish lines where the quills of the feathers are inclined to protrude through the skin. These should be caught up with a needle and thread, and drawn nearly together, then tied in posi- tion. Inaskin ofa bird of the size of a red-tailed hawk, they should be tied an inch and a half apart. Other bird-skins should be drawn up in proportion to their size. Return the leg-bones in posi- tion, and also the skin, by passing the head through the neck. Pick out the eye-lids in their natural form, with a needle or small for- SKIN READY FOR RE- TURNING. ceps, and arrange the plumage smoothly. Make a body the shape and size of the natural one, by rolling up a bunch of excelsior, sea-grass, or tow, winding into form with twine or thread. Pass the neck- wire through the body lengthwise, pull the skin carefully over the body, and clinch the protruding neck-wire firmly. Never use skeleton or soft bodies, as they will not hold wires sufficiently tight to keep a bird in form. 104 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. Wire the legs by running pointed wires through them from the center of the feet up behind the bones. Fasten the leg-bones to the wires by wrapping them with tow and twine, making the legs a trifle smaller than they were naturally. Slip the wires further through the legs and let them pass obliquely through the body from the sides to the fore-breast. Clinch them firmly in the body, PIN-TAIL DUCK PROPERLY MOUNTED. straighten the legs parallel with the sides, fill out the throat and front of the breast with soft stuffing to nat- ural size, then sew up the skin. Smooth down the plu- mage, bend in a natural position, and fasten to a stand. Apply mucilage to the inside of the eyelids, press the artificial eyes tightly in position, then ‘‘ pick out” the eyelids over the eyes with a needle. With large birds, a little modelling is necessary to per- fect the anatomy around the eyes. Care should be taken in arranging the eyelids naturally, as it adds greatly to the life-like appearance. fasten the bill together, by MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. * 105 passing a thread through the nostrils and base of the under mandible, and tie in position. To wire the tailis one of the most delicate tasks for the tyro, and should be done as follows: Pass a long, smoothly-pointed piece of small wire through each tail feather at the flat part of the quill near the body, and spread the tail in accordance with the position of the bird. A large wire should be run through the fleshy part of the tail, from the under side, into the body, so that the tail be made to rest in any position. Secure the wings by sticking sharp pieces of wire through them into the shoulders. Stick small, pointed wires or pins in different parts of the body, and wind the plumage lightly down in position with fine thread, and leave until dry. The plumage may be made to lay smoother by touching the rough places with a feather wet in turpentine. When a bird 1s first taken, note the color of eyes, cere, gular sack, and legs, so that it can be painted naturally when mounted. A natural crook of a tree makes an ornamental stand. To facili- BopY AND NECK, sHow1na tate handling, small birds are i ea usually mounted on a JT stand, and removed when needed for cases. Large birds, as far as practicable, are placed on the stands they are to remain on, when first mounted. When a bird is thoroughly dried, clip off the wrap- pings of thread, cut off projecting wires, and remove pins. Paint necessary parts, and varnish beak, legs, and talons, to preserve from decay and protect from the at- tacks of insects. 106 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. CHAPTER XV. MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS. When a bird is to be stuffed with spread wings, it should be skinned in the usual manner, as heretofore des- cribed, but the main bones of the wings should be left attached to the double ones and not broken. ‘To do this it is necessary to cut into the breast of the bird when skinning it, and unjoint the wings from the body. The flesh is removed from the wing-bones to the second joints from the inside of the skin. The flesh about the double bones should be removed from the outside, by making a cut over them lengthwise and on the under side of the wing. By pushing back the feathers, a large bare place will be found on most birds, where the incision can be made. When cleaning the wing, skin back carefully from both sides of the incision, and remove the flesh by pulling and cutting it out in pieces. The end of the fleshy part of the wing should be primed with corrosive sublimate, dissolved in alcohol and water. These parts are the first attacked by dermestes. Dust the wings well with dry arsenic, substitute potter’s clay, firmly packed, for the removed flesh, sew up the skin by cross-stitch- ing from the under sides, and the feathers will fall smoothly and cover the seam. The wing-wires should be sharpened at both ends, and must be of sufficient length to clinch through the body. Run the end of the wire from the inside up the wing, between the skin and bones, and twist firmly into the fleshy tip where the primaries or first long feathers grow out. Lash the wing-bone tightly to the wire, and wind firmly with tow, then wrap securely with twine into natu- MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS. 107 ralshape. Smooth the plumage, lay the bird on its back, and insert artificial body. It is necessary to run the neck and wing-wires through the body at the same time, HAWKS PROPERLY MOUNTED, WITH SPREAD WINGS. on account of their length. The neck-wire is extended through the body lengthwise, and the wing-wires diago- nally from the shoulders, and all are then clinched inside. 108 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. The leg-wires are arranged the same as described in mounting birds with closed wings, and the skin sewed up by cross-stitching. ‘The wings should then be bent with their backs near together, and bent also at the joints to give them a natural curve. Nature is often rep- resented by placing a stuffed bird or animal in the talons of birds of prey before they are placed on stands. This is done by running the front leg-wire through the speci- men and resting it in a natural position. ‘The ends of long wires should be stuck in the back and carried up under the wings, and doubled over the ends, to keep the quill-feathers regular and in position until dry. Strips of card-board should be pinned to the bird, to hold the plumage in position. Birds to be suspended should have the wings raised slightly more than horizontal, and be hung by a wire run through the body from the back, and clinched in the breast. The legs of a white pigeon should have the wires cut off close to the feet, and then be bent in natural’ position. An eagle, hawk, or owl, may be suspended with its prey in its talons drawn closely to the body. There can be no positive rules of detail for the last touches of this art, as a taxidermist’s knowledge of an- atomy and taste of arrangement will suggest the shape and position of birds. MOUNTING DRY BIRD SKINS. 109 CHAPTAR: evi. MOUNTING DRY BIRD SKINS. To mount a large dry bird-skin well, requires experience and patience. Small skins are more easily stuffed, though they require proper and delicate treatment. All dried skins need dampening and softening previous to mounting, and a box should be prepared for the pur- pose as follows: Make a tight box of tongue-grooved boards large enough to receive the skins without bending them. ‘The cover should drop inside and rest flush with the top on cleats. The box should be filled about four inches deep with wet sand, covered with paper on which the skins are laid. The dampness from the sand is sufficient to soften hummuing-bird skins ready for mounting in from six to twenty-four hours, according to the size of the skin. Larger skins, the size of warblers, should have the legs wrapped in wet cotton for a few hours when in the box. A bird the size of a robin should have the eye-holes wet, a damp piece of cotton or tow placed in the skin, and worked well up in into the neck, and the legs wrapped in wet material. When the skin has been in the box about ten hours, it is ready for mounting. Larger birds, such as herons, curlews, cranes, etc., should remain in the box with their legs in wet wrappings until they are soft enough to admit of being wired. The inside of the skins should then be dampened over night or longer, according to their size and condition. It will often take a week to get a skin soft enough to work well in mounting. The wings of large birds, which are to be spread, should be thoroughly and repeatedly dampened every night for 110 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. several days. A weak solution of carbolic acid and#water should be used for moistening large skins in warm weather, as clear water will cause some parts of them to get in a semi-putrid state when soft, and the scales and skin of the legs to rub off when handled in wiring. When askin is dampened for mounting, ail stuffing should be removed with forceps, and the skull filled full with “‘chopped tow.”