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Cod Oultry

Wek EUL ND
ORNAMENTAL BREEDS
PUNE, Vit Ts
PROPLTEABLE
MANAGEMENT

PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED

NEw YoRK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1898

18956

COPYRIGHT 1898 BY
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

TWO COPIES RECEIVED.

-~ AT OF CONS
PP RCE op NGS

NOV 2.3 1898
Rite of Cop Ly

EPUBLIS IRS PREFACE.

As denoted by the title of the book, the editors have given most
prominence to the side of poultry keeping which returns an income.
The ways and means by which eggs or poultry can be grown at a
profit are discussed in great detail. So many questions are constantly
asked about the various breeds and also concerning diseases and
their treatment, that these topics have been quite fully considered.
The turkey department has been made as complete as possible on
account of the increasing interest in that branch of poultry keeping.

Incubators, care of chicks, feeding and care for eggs, or for meat,
building coops and houses, caponizing, marketing, warfare against
pests, raising waterfowl and ornamental poultry, are described at
length. The reference matter and tables are a special feature of the
book. The present volume is nearly one-third larger than any
previous edition.

Experience of breeders and poultry farmers has been drawn upon
freely, resulting in that breadth of view which can be obtained only
by comparison of successful methods in actual practice. Among
those who have directly assisted in furnishing the new matter are
James Rankin, P. H. Jacobs, T. M. Ferris, M. C. Weld, Burr
Knapp and W. H. Rudd. The entire material has been carefully
prepared by Mr. George. B.« Fiske, poultry editor American Agri
culturist. About 100 pages and many illustrations have been added
to the new and enlarged edition, but without any increase in the

price of this useful book.
(3)

CON EIN TS.

PAGE
PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE......-.... weet eee cent eee ee eee e eens 3
CHAPTER I
VEG UL SH hy) BYee TSO 0 ah Reo reeled ye ee eels oy eee en 7
CHAPTER II.

Convenient and -G ood Poultry sMoOuses. - oe 30). see ne eee ce 13
CHAPTER III.

Special Purpose eomlumy PH Ouse-ece nes scene o.oo ene 25
CHAPTER IV.

Fouleryouse CONVeMIENCES.4 san acon e ce os se Babee: 3]
CHAPTER V.

TUG ETE HMM FTL TO P29 6) (0) 0 ots epee arene Gata Sh eho eM ince Pras aE 46
CHAPTER VI.

Carnet Chickens—Coops. for them: «nine. dh asenses ce wo eee aos 54
CHAPTER VII.

ASS eerie ore Pa By reo] Ot] ee 6 (a 0 i ce RO Sh See ce ne Pg 65
CHAPTER VIII

PE MATTE HOM AVDTICE banca eka te Aes a wie eno eek eee tbies 80
CHAPTER IX

SS HOU MAT Ke teas sions, foo fo See ae oe Cee Poe eee le crud Sasa oats 86
i» CHAPTER X.

Capone. Eo wall 1S dONeay sss es odes okie areas Bec comm eas 93
CHAPTER XI.

Powliny Keeprrojas.a ID USiness os ciis. 5 sess! dos aiOeicley vo aoe a eR 98
CHAPTER XII.

inesya Ont] Mama MCMeM Gi mimes Les «buen died ale dates wv cies ees os 101

(5)

6 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.

Some Popular Breeds... 7.5. 2 cncs suas Sale eee 121
CHAPTER XIV
WSIATIC IDTECUS; 4. oinae 8 oe os oa ons ccs swag bin ce arene giateek eee eee 123
CHAPTER XV.
European STECOS socks Havnlers cintern muisie o eeeldtels ee arauee SI eet ree eee 136
CHAPTER XVI.
PRIME TIGATL ETO COS dvs terotowicns C0 50a ene Oe edo Sig alias x end a er 168
CHABTER XVII.
DISEASES OPE OULELY.. fe nes ae as SE Ae en Pee eee, ee 178
CHAPTER XVIII.
PATASHES UPON: POMLOLY.: Weiss eect h & ec imotaenic soe oe Oe 189
CHAPTER XIX.
AIS ENO MP UPICCY Si. cht eke Oe Martens eee Ok ioe Ah dplae hee 193
CHAPTER XxX.
Raising Geese. (s:5+ hs i oick sus ieee reedie cas Aneel epee eee 210
CHAPTER XXI.
PAISI NS DUCK Ge hes ok sag 2 cate eS area eee are ana aeE eee 218
CHAPTER XXII.
Ornamental Poaltuys 27 cemeis sie es i) anand ees ee es 235
' CHAPTER XXIIL.
Breede and Cross: Breedinas. o 5 .. aks o6is 0.4 velo e ee toca eee 247
CHAPTER XXIV.
Peedi LOM GLOW UN: 200s. es es ba eee Oe ee Ave cee ae eee 261
CHAPTER XXyV.
MCCAINS FOF WHOL rv. 60's odie oe oe wie sv oele Wan Giodiaia tele See ane ee ae 273
CHAPTER XXVI.
PUPKEYS OMe ble Wai. sais oie cgvets ising calves serve a Mey ota sek wea ter ee 288
CHAPTER XXVII.
WVISCASES AWE POS tigers acaisve: caressa lass sidcaere ts areale ote: Ck Ges eee ee 317
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Poultry Dictionary,and Calendarac jac 2453). dc See aceon eee 335

INDEX—A Iphabetical ss. swith. ais cs erciabls os vac ns np'slste ele ee heen 350

PROFITS IN POULTRY.

CHAP TH h-E
POULTRY RAISING.

No other business connected with agricultural pursuits,
seems so attractive as poultry farming. Even those who
fail in the business and retire from it, aver that they are
certain they could succeed in a new trial. At the start,
the general idea is that the business consists of throwing
out corn to a flock of hens with one hand, and gathering
eggs with the other. But while this may be true in some
cases, it is very different in others. The expert poultry
raiser may perhaps meet with no difficulty, and all may
go on smoothly, but the novice is in trouble from the
first; the eggs are few, and the chicks die. One may
easily keep ten or twelve fowls with profit, who could not
double or treble this number successfully, because with a
large number all the difficulties which arise, such as
want of cleanliness, the presence of vermin, impure air,
and risk of infection, increase in a much larger ratio than
does the number in the flock. But if one has succeeded
with a small flock, there is no reason why he should not
be able to do so with several flocks, if each is kept in just
the same manner as the original one. Afterwards the
flocks may be enlarged, but as this is the very poimt on
which most of the younger poultry raisers fail, the great-
est caution should be observed in adding to the number
of fowls kept in each coop or house, or yard.

(7)

8 PROFITS IN PUULTRY.-

THE BEST BREED FOR MARKET PURPOSES.

What follows in this chapter is from E. A. Samuels
of Massachusetts: I find it very difficult to answer
the question : ‘‘ Which breed of fowls do you recommend
as being the best for market purposes ?” for it is almost
impossible to lay down as a guide any rule, or name any
particular breed, or cross, or variety which will net the
best results in every market. A great deal depends upon
the locality where the breeder is situated, and it also de-
pends upon whether the breeder desires ‘‘ broilers,” or
early or late ‘‘ roasters.”

In the Philadelphia, Baltimore and New York mar-
kets, as well as among the Paris and London dealers,
chickens with white or light skin are preferred to those
with yellow skin, and consequently the Dorkings, Black
Spanish, Houdans, and other white skinned varieties or
their crosses always bring the best prices, and are in the
quickest demand, while in the Boston and the other New
England cities, and 1n Chicago, and perhaps some of the
other large western cities, where any decided preference
has been expressed, the yellow-skinned birds are in the
greater demand.

In the Boston markets and hotels a lot of bright, -rel-
low-skinned chickens will always command a better price
than will a lot of white-skinned birds, although the two
lots may have been fed precisely alike, and be in equally
as good condition ; this I have proved repeatedly, so that,
as I before stated, a great deal depends upon the intended
market.

Many persons believe that the color of the chicken’s
skin is governed largely by the kind of food the birds are
provided with; believing that yellow Indian corn will
produce a yellow-skinned chick, while wheat or oats will
cause the skin to be white. Although there may be some
little reason for this belief, I think that it cannot be re-

POULTRY RAISING. 9

garded as of much importance, for a lot of chickens of
different varieties, if fed and reared in the same pen, will
exhibit all shades of color in the skin from yellow to
white. It seems natural to some breeds to secrete a fat
that is yellow, while other breeds secrete a fat that has
but little tint.

A great deal has been written in regard to the merits
of different breeds of fowls, and people are, generally,
pretty well acquainted with the characteristics of each,
so that it would seem almost an act of supererogation
here for me to dwell upon this topic, did not my experi-
ence in a measure differ from that of many writers.
From extended and careful observation, I have arrived at
the following conclusions :

If a breeder intends to raise chickens for the Philadel-
phia and other first-named series of markets, a cross of
Plymouth Rock cock, one year old, on a two-year-old
Light Brahma hen, produces the most desirable early
““roasters ;”” a pure-blood Plymouth Rock mating gives
the best ‘‘ broilers” and late ‘‘ roasters.” Infact for my
own table I prefer Plymouth Rock chickens, either as
broilers or roasters, to all others. Of course, at present,
Langshans and Wyandottes are too valuable to be taken
into account as table fowls.

Next to the above matings, for the markets named, a
cross between a yearling Black-breasted Game and White
or Buff Cochin, makes desirable broilers, but not so quick
selling as those first named.

In my experience, the principal objection to Plymouth
Rocks and their crosses lies in their dark pin-feathers,
which abound in the skin of broilers, and are very difti-
cult to be removed, and when they are taken out thor-
oughly the skin is often badly broken and marred by the
picker.

For the Boston and other markets named in the sec-
ond list, I find that for broilers a cross between a year-

10 PROFITS IN POULTIY.

ling White Leghorn cock, on a two-year-old Light
Brahma hen, is by all odds most desirable. The chicks
mature very rapidly; they are plump and full-breasted
at nine to twelve weeks old; they have a bright, yellow
skin, and no dark pin-feathers.

I prefer a two-year-old hen to breed from for the reason
that her chickens are larger and more vigorous than are
those of a yearling, and they mature much more quickly.

Next in value for broilers in these markets to this cross,
in the succession they are named, are the pure-blood Light
Brahma, Plymouth Rock, White or Buff Jochin, and
cross of Brown Leghorn on Partridge Cochiu, ail of the age
of from ten to twelve weeks old if hatched in January or
February, or nine to eleven weeks old if hatched in
March or April, they growing a little more rapidly then
than the earlier hatched birds. For early roasters, for
these markets, I prefer a cross of Plymouth Rock year-
ling cock on Light Brahma hen, the latter furnishing
the large frame-work on which the blood of the former
builds a full-breasted, quick-maturing fine-meated bird.
Light Brahma cockerels, nine to twelve months old, make
good and marketable roasters, but they are not so profit-
able to raise as the cross I have named.

MANAGEMENT AND FEED.

As much depends on the management of the chickens,
however, as on the characteristics of the different breeds.
A good poultryman may, with poor stock, succeed better
than would a bad manager with the best of stock.

It is of great importance, 1n raising chickens, that they
should be well supplied with a variety of food. ‘‘ Short
commons ” does not pay in chicken raising. The com-
mon custom is to keep a dish of ‘‘ Indian meal dough ”
mixed up, and three times a day a lot is thrown down to
the chickens. If they eat it, well and good ; if not, and
the chances are they will not, having become tired of one

POULTRY RAISING. 11

single article of diet set before them day after day, it
stands and sours. If a quantity is thus found uneaten,
the next meal is likely to be a light one, and the chickens,
driven by hunger, finally devour the sour stuff. The re-
sult is cholera or some other fatal disease sets in and their
owner wonders why his chickens are dying off. In my
own practice I find that small quantities of varied food,
if given to the chickens often, produce vastly better re-
sults than any other method of feeding. .

On no account, do I permit young chickens to be fed
with Indian meal dough. For the first morning meal I
give all my young stock boiled potatoes mashed up fine
and mixed with an equal quantity of Indian meal and
shorts. I find nothing so good and acceptable as this
food, and’ I use only small unmarketable potatoes ; they
prove more profitable than anything else I can employ.

I have had many hundreds of chickens at one time in
my houses, varying in size from those but afew days old
to others large enough for the table, and positively no
other article of ‘‘ soft food ” was ever given to them ; and
I venture to say a more healthy and thrifty lot of chick-
ens could not be found. When, in days gone by, I used
to feed to the young stock the traditional ‘‘ dough,” I
always counted on losing a large percentage, and the
numbers that died from cholera, diarrhoea and kindred
diseases, were great. Nowa sick chicken isa rarity in
my yards. After the potato mash is disposed of I give
my chickens all the fine cracked corn they will eat up
clean. Of course large chickens, those which are ten or
twelve weeks old, can be fed with corn coarser cracked,
_ but the young birds want it very fine. In about two hours
after the cracked corn is eaten, I give all the wheat
screenings the chicken will eat, and in another two hours,
some oats. For supper they have all the cracked corn
and wheat they can eat. It is of the utmost importance
that the young birds should, at the close of the day, have

12 PROFITS. IN POULTRY.

full crops; for the nights in the winter and early spring
are long, and as soon as the chickens have digested all
their food they stop growing for the time being. I always
make it a point to feed them as late in the afternoon as
they can see, and as early in the morning.

By the above described system of feeding, the chickens
are constantly tempted by a variety of healthy food, and
the result is a rapid growth and perfect immunity from
disease. If abundance of grass is not accessible to them,
young chickens should have fed to them at least one meal
a day of grass and clover chopped fine with a pair of
scissors. In winter I give my chickens cabbages, throw-
ing in whole heads for the birds to pick at,

CH A Par Ei ET,
CONVENIENT AND GOOD POULTRY HOUSES.

A VERY CHEAP HEN HOUSE.

Experience has proved that twenty fowls, properly
housed, provided with suitable food, pure water, clean
nest boxes, plenty of dust, lime in some form, and gravel,
will return more clear profit than fifty, kept as they gen-
erally are upon farms. Suggest a good poultry house to
the average farmer, and frequently there arises in his
mind the image of an elaborate affair costing one hun-
dred, to one hundred and fifty dollars. Not being able
to spare that amount for such a purpose, he goes without,
and his poultry, exposed to the inclemencies of the

Fig. 1.—A CHEAP HEN HOUSE.

weather, are a dead expense fully two-thirds of the year,
eating valuable food constantly and yielding nothing in
return. A poultry house large enough to properly shelter
twenty fowls can be erected at a very small cost. We give
an engraving of one, all:‘the materials of which, with the
exception of the sash, cost three dollars and eighty-five
cents. The sash was taken from a hot-bed that is used
for sprouting sweet potatoes late in the sprmg. When
the sash 1s required for the hot-bed the season is mild and
the opening is covered with boards. This structure 1s
nine feet wide, twelve feet long, and five feet high in the

(13)

14. PROFITS IN POULTRY.

center. The short side of the roof 1s two feet long, and
the long side, which fronts south and comes to within
eighteen inches of the ground, is seven feet. At the fur-
ther end the roof boards extend over an opening made for
the fowls to pass in and out. ‘The perches are one foot
above the floor and extend along the north side of. the
interior. ‘The bottom board on that side is hung with
hinges so it can be raised, and the droppings under the
perehes scraped out. I'he nest boxes are ranged along the
low side, the dust box is placed in the sunniest spot, and
the feed and water troughs near the door. One pane
of glass in the sash is loose so that it may be moved
down for ventilation. ‘The floor should be covered with
sand when obtainable, if not, with straw, chaff, or other
similar material that can be raked out when soiled. The
whole interior should be given a coat of fresh lime white-
wash at least four times a year, and the perches swabbed
with kerosene. Hens kept in this house lay steadily all
winter. The poultry house here described is easily cleaned,
and answers the purpose nearly as well as one costing
twenty times as much.

A WARM FOWL HOUSE.

Eggs in winter are what we all want. To secure them
we must have for our hens a warm, snug house, easily
kept clean, with provision for dusting, feed, water and
exercise. ‘To consider these requirements in the order
named, we have first warmth as an important desidera-
tum. Artificial heat has rarely been found profitable,
hence we will not consider it. The fowls must depend
for their warmth upon the sun, the natural heat of the
earth, and the temperature of their own bodies. If we
notice a flock of chickens, we shall see that they warm

CONVENIENT AND GOOD POULTRY HOUSES. 15

_ themselves by huddling together, by crowding on their
roosts, by sitting flat upon the ground, and by standing
or sitting in the sun. We must therefore employ all
these ways to secure that warmth, without which we
shall have few eggs, with no less or even greater expense
for food.

Fowls suffer most from cold at night. In fact, nights
are almost always colder than the days, and it is fortu-
nate that by night when it is cold, we have less wind.
A poultry house to be warm, must be close and tightly
made, yet with good ventilation, for if warm and ill-ven-
tilated, the birds may be suffocated. This has not un-

Figs. 2 and 3.—SECTIONS OF ROOSTING ROOM,

frequently occurred. By the accompanying section and
plans (figs. 3 and 4), we secure warmth from every
source. Too much sunlight is often disadvantageous,
hence the low roof without windows. ‘The windows (w),
admit sunlight upon the floor and dust box. The house
is twelve feet square, divided by a partition of boards.
This leaves the two apartments each six feet wide. It is
intended for less than twenty to thirty adult fowls. The
perches (7), are five feet long each, so that thirty fowls
will be pretty well crowded upon them. The full ght
of the house is nine feet, in order to give the roof a good

16 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

pitch, but within a ceiling is placed at the hight five and
a half to six feet. This may be of slats, or plastering
lath, placed the width of a lath apart, and in the winter
the space above may be filled loosely with straw. Thus,
with ventilating doors above, there can be no direct draft
upon the fowls. In such a room there will always be a
circulation of air. The air warmed by the bodily heat
and the breadth of the fowls, rises into the upper part of
the room. There is a constant current of cool air flowing
down against every window, and this causes a circulation
—up through the roosts, down by the window. After a
while the air may become charged with carbonic acid gas
from the breath of the fowls. This is heavier than the
air, hence would, after being chilled by the window, not
be likely to rise, but would in part flow off into the other
compartment, through the passage for the fowls near the
window. ‘The closeness of the quarters for the number
of fowls stated, will secure a high temperature at night,
provided the walls and roof are reasonably tight, without
danger. Perhaps the best way to secure a warm roof is
the following: lay first a roof of hemlock boards, laid
with the slope; upon these, shingling laths, and shingles,
This secures an air space an inch thick under the shingles,
in addition to the board roof. So constructed, no rafters
would be needed, but one scantling, set edgeways and
supported by posts in the middle of each side, and in the
partition, to make the roof stiff.

The roosting-room is supplied with a large dust-box,
always well filled, and two ranges of nest boxes, with
sloping tops, as shown in figure 2. The chickens can not
stand on these tops, and being set on each side of the
room, they are made to support the roosts, which should
not be higher than two feet, or two and a half feet from
the floor. The best form of roost is made by taking two
straight grained, smooth pine sticks, two inches wide and
ene inch thick, and nailing them together T-fashion,

CONVENIENT AND GOOD POULTRY HOUSES. 1%

If the top edges of the cap piece are rounded off by a
plane, the result will be a stiff, strong perch, which will
not disfigure the breast-bones of fowls, and which will
keep their feet warm.

This apartment should be cleaned out every morning.
To do this the perches are taken up, cleaned off with a
wooden knife or scraper, and set in one corner. The
roofs of the nest boxes are cleaned off with the same im-
plement, and after scattering a little of a mixture of road-
dust and plaster over the floor, all is swept up and put

Fig. 4.—PLAN OF FOWL HOUSE.

in a barrel. Then a small layer of dust is scattered over’
the floor under the roosts, which however are not replaced
until evening, or say three or four o’clock, when the last
gathering of eggs is made. |
We have considered the matter of warmth, and inrci-
dentally that of dusting, and in part of cleanliness. The
day compartment is as light as we can conveniently make
it. It ought to have a cement, or hard clay floor, well
pounded down. Cement is preferable. The water foun-
tain (w) should be cleaned and filled daily. If there is
2

18 PROFITS IN POULTRY. ae

danger of its freezing, the water may be thrown out as
soon as the fowls are on the roosts, and refilled with tepid
water at daylight in the winter mornings. ‘Three feed
boxes are sufficient, one for soft feed, one for ground
oyster shells, and one for ground bone. Grain should be
fed upon the floor, and preferably at evening. This
brings us to consider the last of our list of requirements,
namely, exercise. ‘T’o secure this, cover the floor with
chopped straw to the depth of three inches, and scatter
the grain upon this. Feed at such an nour that the
chickens will not have time to find it all before it is dark,
and this will be an inducement for them to get up early
and go to scratching. Some provision of this kind is very
important when fowls can not have much range and out-
of-door exercise on account of snow and rain. In winter
, dry outside run is very important. It is best provided
by a long, low, lean-to roof, on the south side of an east
and west fence. The sun should, even at noon, reach all
the ground under the shed. If such a house as we have
indicated, be built against a hillside, somewhat sunken
perhaps; ard earth banked up against the sides, except
where windows come, will add greatly to its warmth.

=O

CONVENIENT AND CHEAP POULTRY HOUSE.

Those who need a cheap building, and can do the
greater part of the work themselves, will find the following
plan excellent. The center of the building (see fig. 5),
is 10x10 feet, and is six feet to theeaves. The wings are
each 8x6x4 feet. Either of the three parts may be built
first, and the others may be added from time to time. —
No posts are used in building it. The sills, 3x4 inches,
and 10 feet long, and are mortised and put together m
place; the plates, 3x4 inches, and 10 feet long, are put

CONVENIENT AND GOOD POULTRY HOUSES. 19

on the sills; then eight boards are cut six feet long, four
of them with the angle at the top tc correspond with the
pitch of the roof. These are nailed to the sills, and

Fig. 5.—GROUND PLAN OF POULTRY HOUSE.

those in front and back nailed to the edges of those on
the ends. ‘Then four sticks are cut each five feet six
inches long, the plate is raised up, a stick put under it

Fig. Foes ELEVATION OF POULTRY HOUSE.

on the sill, in each corner : the boards are then nailed to
it, and the frame is raised ; boarded, and battened, and
itis strong enough. The roosts are arranged as in figure
5; the piece, C, rests on the plates, and is held in place

20 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

by cleats, and acts as a hinge. The pieces, D, are secured
to it, and the roosts, B, to them. At A is a ring bolt,
and overhead a hook. When the house is to be cleaned
out, the roosts are raised and hooked up, and are six feet
high, so there is no trouble in working under them. The
door, /#, is 6x3 feet. In each wing there are two rows
ot nests, each nest 18x18x12 inches, 12 in arow, 241in each
wing, and 48 in all; the bottom of the lower row is two
feet from the ground, and under if are five coops on each
side, in each wing, twenty in all, (18x18x20 inches).
These are closed inside with slats, and each one is inde-

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‘Fig. {.—END ELEVATION. Fig. 8.—SECTION.
pendent, and entered from the outside, as shown in fig-
ures 6 and 7. The entrances to the nest-rooms are in the
doors, as in figure 7. Figure 8 is an inside view of one
of the wings, showing the interior arrangement of one
side. The two windows in front, one in each wing, three
doors, and twenty-three entrances for the fowls, will give
sufficient ventilation, but if more is needed, small doors
or windows, 18x18 inches, can be put above the plates, in
the ends of the center building. The cupola is not nec-
essary, but it allows the foul air to escape ; it costs about
a day’s work for a handy man, and is built of scraps.
The roof need not, of necessity. be shingled.

CHAPERR Iftl.

SPECIAL-PURPOSE POULTRY HOUSES,

A VERY COMPLETE POULTRY HOUSE.

The very complete yet simple plan for a poultry house
on the following pages was submitted by Charles H. Col-
burn, of New Hampshire, in competition for prizes offered
by the publishers, and received the highest award. It is
built with the windows to the south. Fig. 9, a, is a door.
eighteen inches square for putting in coal; 0 is a place
for early chickens; c, boxes for oyster shells and ground
bone; d, movable coops for hens with chickens. The
iide doors are at e, e, e, e; boxes for soft feed at g, g,
and bins for grain are at h, h. <A scuttle for the drop-
pings is placed at 7, in the passage-way, under which isa
receiving box, and a track laid to the door 7. This door
is hung with T-hinges, and opened only for the passage
of the box. A ventilating hole is left in the door. The
nests for setting hens are at £; lobby for the hens at J,
and small ten by twelve-inch openings through the wall
for hens to enter the yards, are shown at m. Other sim-
ilar openings for hens pass from yard to yard are at 2.
A small coal stove, 0, is used to cook feed and for heat-
ing rooms in the coldest weather. Lead pipes, p, boxed
up and packed with sawdust, run under the floor of the
_ passage-way from the water tank to the end pens, where
a faucet is attached and regulated that water will fall into
dishes. The windows are at g, nine by twelve-inch glass ;
‘each sash is arranged to raise. The roosts, r, are one and
a half by three inches, and rounded on the edge. The
platform, s, under the roosts, is three feet wide, with a
two-incn strip on the front; the whole may be covered

(21)

22 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

with zine if desired. ‘There are two rows of nests, Z,
under the roosts, made with movable bottoms and sides,
and may be taken out and cleaned from the passage-way.
There are eight doors opening into the passage-way, that
eggs may be gathered without going into the pens. ‘T'wo
long doors (one by seven and a half feet), hung with
T-hinges, open upward, through which droppings can be
easily removed. A water tank, w, holding afew gallons,
is boxed up and packed in sawdust. ‘There is a ventila-

3x8 38x 9k
eon cece, Musing Room,

Fig. 9.—PLAN OF THE POULTRY HOUSE.

tor in the center of the roof that can be opened or closed
by a cord from the passage-way. A double set of drawers,
v, for holding eggs, may be made over the grain bins. A
lattice door, w, is built in the wall for chickens, with a
tight door in the outside that can be fastened up or down
as desired. Small chickens may be fed from the outside
by sliding the window, and from inside by letting down
a board over the coops, or by opening a small door in the
back of the coop. Over the sink, z, is a board (eighteen

SPECIAL-PURPOSE POULTRY HOUSES. 23

by thirty-six inches) with hinges, tu be raised up asa side
table for holding fowls while being dressed. A cupboard

he -—

‘ASQOH AULTAOd AHL JO ACIS HLNOS AHL—‘OT “LT

under the sink holds the knives, lantern, etc. At one end
_ of the cupboard is a box for oyster shells and ground
bone, <A pail is set at y to catch the blood when fowls

24 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

are killed. Over this pail, screwed into the rafter, is a
hook with cord attached, to hang up the poultry by the
legs, and a cord with a loop in it and a window weight,

. Alin:
Spe Teal TL

i I =

Fig. 11.—NoRTH SIDE OF THE POULTRY HOUSE,

to be put over the fowl’s neck before being struck with
an axe. A small passage under the walk, is for fowls to
enter the yard.

This poultry house can be built for $165.70, and when
lathed and plastered will cost twenty-five dollars more.

SPECIAL PURPOSE POULTRY HOUSES. 25

It may be constructed for $130 by having the studding
and rafters 22 inches apart, instead of 16 inches, and by
setting it on posts and planked up two feet, in place of
brick underpinning. ‘The following are the estimates
of material :

1 M Square Edge Boards for outside............-.... $12.00
150i) Matched- Sprucetorsentry oor 25... <6 « ss s's 00s 2.20
400 ft. Pine Sheathing for partitions, platforms, and
MOORS seen tyre Se ois Se ba a Be ees Se hate é 7.20

100 pieces 12 by 2 Pine for open work of partitions and
Cicer care tae eos css ake orale eee wea Nalco a sleep sure 50
AS OV OMMMMO ATIC cre dos cate 5525 oa Basco atte wahis o ele.cie'os 2.40
Airey are lee MEIC Ko: Sats sia 55. ares wi. oar OS Oy 9 wos 8. 2.00
400 Spruce Clap-boards, laid 4 inches to weather....... 7.00
Sp VE SNES oka ou Halas oxa Sore ee oe See wide e Salo s,e «wld soe 7.70
Outside Docraud Frame-2t by G2. 2255. 2... 3s es as 2.25
8 Windows and Frames, 9 by 13, glass.........-....-.- 16.00
4-Sashesiover Dustine: Rooms 22sec... vos - ase ce etsoeee 8.00
SO fh Gee HNL Cs ooids npccoue' Cina s ote ’s + Ga Sabie «ie we wish woo SP new 30
Hardware, including zinc, nuils, locks, hinges, cords, etc. 10.00
17, ft. ‘Pine Boards for nests; boxes; ete: io... 22 cease 3.79
EGS ebs, Bini rate aie oye stipes eae etee epaier ai).S, a mycrys 4 vores Stepaie Sel 16.25
ANE MUO, ora eo ea pee Stee ese wah ws Syettousiacaiavei cusbelers aysyernie, ale 2k one 20.00
Javea sin se eee eases ete aie. oda Dede Sectors Cisco's iran diners 10.00
AP ME Bricks: 22 Re eS ae Pose Seas Ses 22.00
Eine. Cement, andiulayin® Dich. =. cs. 6 ciae tes i502 ose es © 10.00
1 TRE a wp 10) ey oe Re Aa eg a Sats Seo
fapent. bine Hainish foroutside:, 222 2 owed a aorcsiids oars 3.10
23 Matched and Grooved Boards over Dusting Room 1.75
di MOST | ye ace Dae geben ARANETA Spry Aa Ge PIP a Soe Oe A A $165.70

Ls De

HALF UNDERGROUND FOWL HOUSE.

The Poultry-House, Fig. 12, is intended to be four feet
below the surface of the ground. In this case the bot-
tom should be well drained, at least a foot in depth be-
neath the wall, and the house must be kept well venti-

26 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

lated, to avoid dampness, which is the most injurious
thing possible for fowls. If perfectly dry such a house
would be unobjectionable. As to interior arrange-
ments, there should be an entrance as shown at a, fig. 18,
opening on toa plank extending the whole length of the

My

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Fig. 12.—EXTERIOR OF POULTRY-HOUSE.

building, from which the fowls can reach the roosting
poles. Beneath the poles there should be a sloping par-
tition, upon which the droppings may collect and slide
down to the plank-walk already mentioned. From this
“hey should be swept off every day, and carried away.
To prevent the droppings from clinging to the partition,
it should be well dusted every day with dry plaster, road
dust, or sifted coal ashes. Beneath the plank walk let
the partition extend to the floor, dividing the house into
two apartments. At the front of the house a row of nest
boxes, supported by braces, as seen at b, should be made.
The rear partition may be devoted to hatching and rear-

SPECIAL PURPOSE POULTRY HOUSES. ik

ing chickens, a door at the further end of it opening into
the front apartment. ‘his would make an excellent
poultry house for a village lot, being cheap, plain, and
including many conveniences under one roof. ‘lhe sash
in front sloping to the south, would keep the house

Fig. 13.—SECTION OF POULTRY HOUSE.

warm during winter, and with proper care to feed the
fowls well, and keep the house perfectly clean, eggs
might reasonably be expected all the winter.

SEE cEceeeEEe

PORTABLE POULTRY-HOUSE.

A movable poultry-house is by no means novel, it
having been described and used years ago. Geyelin des-
cribed one which was used in grain fields in France to
gather the scattered grain after harvest. This was con-
structed something like one of those vans used in trans-
porting animals kept in traveling menageries. It was
20 feet long, about 7 feet wide, and the same in height.

28 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

A set of steps was fixed at one end for the fowls to euter
and leave, and nest-boxes and roosts were provided within.
Several of these houses were drawn to the field, and one
of them was furnished with a small apartment for the
keeper who attended to the fowls. A large number of ye
fowls could be accommodated in one of these houses, as
they were intended to be cleaned daily, and the drop-
pings scattered upon the ground around them as they
were moved from place to place each day.

An excellent house of this kind was designed by R.
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Sproule of Pennsylvania, and a view of it is given in figure
14. Itis of wood, and as will be seen, is mounted upon an
axle and a pair of wheels. By means of a pair of levers,
raised to the position shown by the dotted lines, the
house is lifted, and made to rest wholly upon the wheels,
so that it can be moved from place to place as desired.
Figure 15 shows the ground plan, with the boxes for
feed, water, and gravel. ‘These are secured to the sills
and are kept clean bya sloping cover of small rods. The
house is 10 feet long by 5 feet wide, and as high as may

SPECIAL PURPOSE POULTRY HOUSES. 29

_ be necessary. The nest boxes, 16 inches square and 4
inches deep, are secured to the upper corners of the en-
closure, a small door being provided for reaching the
eggs. The roosting poles are so arranged that the fowls
can easily climb from one to the other. The enclosure is

i434 GS

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—!
1
z
ne
oO

ROOST POLES

made of oak rods and rails which are bored to receive
the rods. Any cheaper method of construction may be
used.

The size of the house may be 5x10, or 4x8 feet, and 5
feet high to the eaves. The sills are made of 1}x3 inch

30 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

stuff, laid flat down, halved together at the corners, and
nails driven through upward into the ends of the posts
The corner posts are 3x3 inches, the middle ones are
3x4 inches. Hach is properly mortised to receive the
rails of the open sections. A light cornice, or a 24-inch
band, is securely nailed around the top, a little above
the eaves, leaving sufficient room for the roof boards to
pass under between the band and the upper rail. To
the back side of this band is nailed the balustrade, each
piece having its ends toe-nailed to the posts. A lght
ridge pole is attached at each end to the balustrade near
the top, which forms a double-pitch flat roof. This is
made of one thickness of 2-ineh boards, the same as the
enclosed sides. ‘The upper section at the end, over the
feed trough, is hung with hinges for a door through
which to place feed, etc. The levers have their fulcrum
ends resting on the axle, and are bolted on it. About
12 inches from it, and opposite to it, and through the
middle posts, are pivot bolts, on which the weight of the
house hangs when the levers are pressed down. Narrow
strips are used as braces for stiffening the frame length-
wise, which are placed inside, also bits of hoop iron
should be used about the corners to strengthen the joints,
With these appliances and proper tools, any skillful
mechanic can complete the job. Its weight is about 300
pounds, and the house affords room for keeping from 12
to 24 fowls through the season. ‘The advantages of such
a house are that the fowls are under perfect control, and
are kept quite as healthy as when running at large.
Every morning when the house is moved, there is pro-
vided a clean, fresh apartment, with fresh earth and
grass. Fowls become thoroughly domesticated by being
thus treated. Those that are inclined to sit, are put
outside ; they will hang about and make an effort to get
in, and the desire to sit soon passes away. The manure
is all saved to the best advantage, being applied at once.

CHAPTER IV.
POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES,

Anything that will add to the ease of management
of the poultry-yard is gladly welcomed. The practice
among farmers of letting their poultry roost about the
farm buildings upon harrows, plows, wagons, and farm
machinery is growing less prevalent each year, as many
of them are building suitable poultry-houses.

hs

PERCHES, ETC.

At figure 16 is shown a neat and handy arrange-
ment of perches; 7, 7, 7, are scantling, eight feet in

«
\

=o)

=((
\\

length, two inches thick, and three inches wide, made
of some tough, light wood. The upper ends are hinged
to the side of the building, four feet apart, and are con-

(31)

ao PROFITS IN POULTRY.

nected by means of roosts or perches made of octagonal
strips nailed fast to the suppozts. Perches should be
placed about eighteen inches apart. At any time when it
is desired to gather up the droppings, the end of the
frame-work is raised and fastened to the ceiling or roof
by a hook at 2, the whole arrangement being up out of
the way for thorough cleaning. At the corner of the
building, opposite the roost, is placed a box, p, contain-
ing ashes, road-dust, etc., that the fowls may dust them-
selves. The box should be two feet square and about one ©
foot in height, and should be kept half filled with dust-
ing material, both summer and winter. In the corner
is placed a box, e, and should contain a supply of gravel
and broken oyster-shells. The foregoing conveniences
cost but little and will prove valuable additions to any
poultry-house.

LOW ROOSTS.

_ For the large fow!s low roosts should be used, as they
cannot reach high ones without a ladder, and in drop-
ping from them are very apt to injure themselves. A

roosting-frame, made for Asiatic fowls, is shown at Fig.
17%. It is made of chestnut strips two inches square,
with the edges of the upper part rounded off to make
them easy to the feet of the fowls. Three of these strips

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES. 33

_ are fastened to frames made of the same material for
supports. The whole is fastened to the wall by rings
fixed in staples, so that it can be turned up and held
against the wall by a hook. It is twelve feet long,
three feet wide, and should stand eight inches from the
wall and about one foot from the floor.

— OH

STOVE FOR A POULTRY-HOUSE.

A simple and safe method of warming a poultry-house
in winter is as follows: With a few bricks and common
mortar build a box five feet long and two and one-half
feet wide, leaving an open space in the front about a foot
wide. Lay upon this wall, when fourteen inches high,
so as to cover the space within the wall except about six
inches at the rear end, a plate of sheet-iron. Build up
the wall. a foot above the iron and then build in
another plate of iron, covering the space inclosed
all but a few inches at the front. Then turn an arch
over the top and leave a hole at the end for a stove-
pipe. A small fire made in the bottom at the front will
then heat this stove very moderately; the heat passing
back and forth, will warm the whcle just sufficient to
make the fowls comfortable, and there will be no danger
of injury to their feet by flying up upon the top, as it will
never be hot if a moderate fire only is kept. The stove
will be perfectly safe, and may be closed by a few loose
bricks laid up in front, through which sufficient air will
pass to keep the fire burning slowly. Ordinarily a fire
need only be made at night during the coldest weather.

Oe ed
NEST-BOXES.

Many farmers and other persons who keep poultry
fail to provide nests for their hens, and then grumble be-
3 |

34 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

cause they seek their nests about and under the farm
buildings in fence corners, under brush-heaps, and va-
rious out-of-the-way places. If clean boxes, provided
with straw or other nesting material, had been put up
at convenient points, the hens would have used them and
would not ‘‘ steal” their nests. A very good size fora
nest-box is little more than one foot square and nine or
ten inches in depth. ‘They should be well made; and
if planed and painted, all the better. Apply kerosene
freely to the inside, where the boards are nailed to-
gether. This should be applied early in spring, and
again about the first of July; it will kill hen-lice and
SM et 7 Mane also prevent their getting
i) AWAY | a foothold about the boxes.
i | \ Nest-boxes should never
NG be permanently attached
to buildings, but placed
upon a floor, or hung up-
on the side of a hennery
or other convenient place
for both fowls and atten-
dant. An excellent plan
for thus securing the boxes
is shown in Fig. 18. At
one side of the box, neat
the top, is bored an inch hole, through which a wooden
or iron pin driven in the side of the building passes
loosely. Considerable dnnoyance is often experienced
by laying hens interfering with those that are sitting ;
often a whole sitting of eggs is broken. This trouble is
readily avoided by those who have a poultry-house with
two rooms, by the use of sliding boxes, as shown in Fig.
19. A hole is cut through the partition about two feet
from the floor, to the bottom of which is firmly nailed a
shelf or platform, e, e, about two feet in length and
nearly one foot in width. Upon this board rest the

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES, 30

nest-boxes, made so that they can be easily slid back and
forth. The ends are made one inch higher than the

sides, that they may not slide clear through or fall down.
At 6 one box is shown pulled out in the room, while at
a the box is seen ptshed
through into the adjoining
room. As fast as the hens #8,
manifest a desire to sit, they =
may be furnished with eggs —
and put in the sitting-room,
in which laying fowls are
not allowed. As all do not
have poultry-houses, a box similar to the one shown in
Fig. 20 may be adopted. A light frame-work of lath is
placed over the box before moving.

A SET OF NEST-BOXES,

made without natls, which can be quickly taken apart
for packing away, whitewashing, etc., may be made of

_—

a a ee aan

~———

36 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

any size to suit. The topand bottom boards have ten-
ons on the ends pasying through mortises in the end-
boards, and held in place by wooden pins, as shown in
the accompanying engraving, Fig. 21. The top and bot-
tom boards have half-inch holes bored through them,
which receive pins that pass into the corresponding

——— == See as

i il

i ae een
# —

Vi

Fig. 21.

holes bored inthe edges of the partition boards. As
these partition pieces are all alike, they are easily put in
place. There isa bar or step along the front of the
nests to prevent any eggs from falling out; the bottom
‘board of the upper tier may extend forward for a few
inches to serve as a place upon which the fowls may
alight.

pice ae
A NEST FOR EGG-EATING HENS.

In the winter season hens frequently acquire the habit
of eating eggs. Sometimes this vice becomes so con-
firmed that several hens may be seen waiting for an-
other one to leave her nest, or to even drive her off, so
that they may pounce upon the egg, the one that drops it
being among the first to break it. In thisstate of affairs
there is no remedy except to find some method of pro-
tecting the egg from the depredators.’ The easiest way
of doing this is to contrive a nest in which the egg will

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES. aie

drop out of reach. Such a nest is shown in the engrav-
ing. It consists of a box with two sloping floors ; one
of these being depressed below the other sufficiently to
make a space through which the egg can roll down out
of the way. An extension of the box with a ld affords
ameans by which the eggs can be removed. Upon the
bottom board of the nest a wooden or other nest egg is

Fig. 21. @

fastened by a screw or by cement. The sloping floors
may be covered with some coarse carpet or cloth, upon
which it is well to quilt some straw or hay, and the
bottom floor should be packed with chaff or moss, upon
which the eggs may roll without danger of breaking. If
the eggs do not roll down at once, they will be pushed
down by the first attempt of a hen to pick at them.

—

A BARREL HENS NEST.

A hen’s nest made of a whole barrel is vastly better
than one in which the head is knocked out, and the hen
is obliged to jump down from the top into her nest, and
thus break the eggs. ‘l'wo staves are cut through im-
mediately above the hoops. and again eight inches above

38 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

the first cut, the pieces cut out, leaving a hole large
enough for the convenience of the hen. Barrels thus
arranged are placed in quiet corners, where hens love to
seclude themselves, and straw or other material is sup,
plied for the nest. |

WIRE NEST.

Figure 22 is an illustration of a good nest, which may
be kept free from vermin. Itis made of wire, or a simi-
lar one may be woven of willows or splints by any in-
genzous boy. A round piece of wood is fastened to the

front for the hen to alight upon, iron or wire hooks are
fastened to it, by which it may be hung upon nails driven
in the wall, and a piece of shingle planed smooth is fast-
ened to the front, vvon which the date when the hen

_— =

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES. 39

commenced to sit may be written. When a wire nest
needs cleaning, it is ]aid on the ground in the yard, the
straw set on fire, and after that is consumed there will be
no vermin left to infest the nest. A basket-nest may be
drenched with boiling water and purified.

EO

A LOCKED NEST-BOX.

It frequently happens that a nest-box that will lock
up is desired. Such a box may be made 3 feet square
and 18 inches deep, which will be large enough for two
nests. ‘The door isata. At 6 is a partition extending
half through the box, and at the inside of this are two

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Fie. 23.

nests about 8 inches deep, 16 inches long, and 12 inches
wide. These are seen through the side of the box, which
is partly removed for this purpose. For small breeds of
poultry the box may be made considerably smaller.

Such aretired nest as this exactly meets the instincts of ©

the hen, and it becomes very acceptable to her.

40 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

TIDY NESTS.

Hens often get the habit of sitting on the edge of their
nests, and this results in the defilement of the nests and
prevents other hens using them. A roller may be ar-
ranged at. the front so that the fowls cannot roost upon

(

L4

| :

un

le

it, nor stand on it to fight other hens from them. The
end partitions are raised 2 inches at the front above the
others, and a roller or 8-sided rod, 2 inches thick, is fast-
ened with a wooden pin at each end so that it will turn
easily and a hen cannot roost upon it.

PNEUMATIC FOUNTAIN.

To prevent young chicks from fouling the water in
the saucers in which it is given to them, take a common
fruit can, remove the top, and cut or file but one (and
that a triangular) notch, only $ inch high for a saucer or
pan in which water will stand 2? to 1 inch deep, as indi-
cated in the engraving Fig. 25. Fill the can with water,
place the saucer on top, and quickly reverse it, and you
have a ‘‘ pneumatic ” fountain holding about one quart,
which the chickens cannot foul. As the water is drunk
or evaporates, more runs out of the can, keeping the
saucer always full to the height of the notch,

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES, 41

FEED-TROUGH.

A device for keeping feed-troughs free from dirt, rain,
or snow, is shown at figure 26. Supports are attached

i

!
ne

to the trough, and extend equally above it, asat H, #,
H, H, and should hold the trough six inches above the
ground. When the trough is not in use, it may be tilted

over so that it will be kept free from water, or rubbish,
and always be in a proper condition whenever needed
for use.

42 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

WINTER FOUNTAIN.

Poultry sometimes suffer greatly in winter through
having their water supply cut off by freezing. There is
some difficulty in keeping them constantly supplied with
water in severe weather, but it can be done if one appre-
ciates the necessity. A method is here illustrated which
has proved of great value. A cask or flour-barrel is sawed
in two, and one half used as the covering to the water-jug.
An earthen jug is so fastened into the half-barrel by
means of cross-pieces that its mouth will come near the
bottom of the tub, upon one side—a piece of a stave being

Al bl ie

— i i
i ii

removed at that point. ‘The space around the jug is filled
with fermenting horse-manure, and slats are nailed
across when the ‘‘fountain” is ready for use. Fill the
jug with water and cork it; then invert the tub, bring-
ing the mouth of the jug over a basin, as shown in the
engraving. When the cork is withdrawn the water will
flow until the mouth of the jug is covered ; it will then
cease, and as the water is used, more will come from the
jug, and so on, forming a continuous self-acting foun-
tain. Such a contrivance will keep the water from
freezing, except in the coldest winter weather. The jug
should be emptied at night.

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES. 43

FOLDING SHIPPING-CRATE.

On farms, where chickens have full run of the yards,
they pick up a great deal of food which would otherwise
be wasted, and the cost of raising a limited number is com-
paratively small; but where they must be fed with grain,
the profits are reduced toa fraction, and a very small
fraction if they are sold to the storekeeper for ‘‘ trade.”
One of the chief reasons why more farmers do not ship
their own poultry is the lack of suitable shipping-crates.

Iixpress companies charge for weight, and unless the

Fig. 28.

crates are light and well made, they object to returning
them free. Poultry sells better in crates that are light,
handsome, and airy.

An excellent folding-crate invented and used by Fred
Grundy is thus described: The crate is exactly square.
Figure 28 shows two sides and the bottom, or floor, as
they are made and put together. Figure 29 shows the

44 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

crate empty and folded, also the top, or cover, with its
trap-door. Theentire frame-work is of any tough wood
—ash is best—one and a half to two inches square, ac-
cording to size of crate. ‘The bottom is half-inch pine.
The wire used is common fence wire. The sides (Fig.
28) are hinged to the bottom, or floor, and when folded
lie flat on the bottom. On the top of the side, two pins,
a, a, iron or wood, fit into holes in frame of the cover.
The sides are hinged to pieces which are screwed to the
bottom, and when folded lie up on the sides. Through

VII

the top of the sides are two three-sixteenth-inch holes,
c, c, into which bolts of the same size are passed, and,
- entering holes s, s, in the cover, hold it down. When
the crate is folded these bolts are withdrawn from the
holes c, c, and passed through the holes e, e, in the
bottom piece of the same side, and then through holes
in cover, and hold the whole crate solid and flat for ship-
ping. Thumb-nuts should be put on these bolts, requir-
ing no wrench.

The crate can be made of any size desired. A crate
holding three to five dozen chickens is usually large
enough. Inshipping long distances care should be taken

POULTRY-HOUSE CONVENIENCES. 45

to not crowd the birds. Give plenty of room and it will
pay in the end. Where the distance is short, ten or
fifteen hours’ travel, they will not hurt in this crate if
crowded considerably, as they cannot become heated.
When well made of good, seasoned wood, this crate will
3tand a large number of trips. It should be well washed
after each shipment. ‘The wood should be well oiled,
but not painted. If thought desirable, the wires on the
cover may be braced in one or two places with binding
wire. Fasten one end to the frame, wrap it twice
around each wire, and fasten to opposite side of frame.

oH ALP eave
NATURAL INCUBATION

Although, in our opinion, there is greater skill re-
juired in caring for the little chicks than in getting
them out well, a good deal of the success of the poultry
crop depends upon the management of the hens while
sitting. ‘Those that steal their nests and follow their
own instincts do very well if they are not disturbed, but
frequently they get frightened or robbed, and the eggs
are lost. Asarule, it is better to have all the sitting
birds completely under your control, and make them
follow your will rather than their own instincts. With
a well-arranged poultry-house it takes but a little time
daily to have all the birds come off for food and exer-
cise. But without this we can manage to make the
sitters regular in their habits. The best plan, usually,
is to set the hens near together in a sheltered spot in
boxes or barrels that we can cover, and thus perfectly
protect them against enemies, and at the same time
comnel them to sit until the box is uncovered. Wher-
ever they may lay, when they want to sit, remove them:
to a shed in an inclosed yard, by night, and put them
securely upon a nest full of eggs. LHvery day about
twelve o’clock remove the covers, and carefully take the
hens from their nests for food and water. In pleasant
weather they take from half to three-quarters of an
hour to scratch in the dirt and take their dust-bath.
Most of them return to their nests voluntarily before
the time is up. Occasionally a bird will take to the
wrong nest. It takes but a few minutes to see every
bird in her place, and make her secure for the next
twenty-four hours. As the hatchirg-time approaches,

(46)

NATURAL INCUBATION. 47

dip the eggs in tepid water every day to keep the pores
open, and to facilitate the hatching. This moistening
of the eggs will be found of special service in the hatch:
ing of the eggs of water-fowls set under hens. Follow
ing this method, good success with sitting hens is almost
certain.

The selection of the eggs for hatching isan important

matter. Some of our leading Asiatic fanciers make it a

point to select eggs which have a particular cast of
color. They claim that dark mahogany color in the
shell of Brahma eggs alone indicates their absolute
purity. While there are others of equal note as breed-
ers who say it is all nonsense to regard the color of
_eggs that are deemed fit or unfit for hatching. But it
is well, however, to look to shape and size, for it is
clearly demonstrated that the regular, medium, well-
formed oval eggs without extreme length, very small
or very large ends, without wrinkles or furrows of any
kind, are the best for hatching.

It is important, too, in the selection of eggs, to look
to size. A happy medium must be secured in this as
well as in some other things. In size they should be
neither too large nor too small for the variety. When
egos of any kind are over-sized, they are usually double-
yolked. and are, therefore, useless for hatching. And
when they are under-sized, they are not so good as the
average. Select from your best layers smooth, hard-
surfaced eggs, without indentations, and of fair medium
dimensions and proportions.

—— 1

EGG-TESTERS.

A bad egg is never welcome, and any simple device
that will quickly and satisfactorily detect the quality of
an egg is important, A very simple method is shown in

48 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Fig. 30. The egg is so held that the hand cuts off all
direct rays of light from the eye, except those passing
through the egg. The egg may be
held toward the sun, or, better, tow-
ard the light from a lighted candle
4 As lamp in a dark room. Egg-test-

\ “\N \\ ersare made in which more than one
4 We a egg may be examined at once, A
\\\ @\\ small box, either of wood or paste-
fa Pills § NY board, is used, with a number of

Zs 7 Ra\ “‘egg-holes” cut in the cover. A
Sn Lippe fp \\\\ WW + 6 A .
a 77 ines PX" mirror is placed within, set at a

slant towards one side of the box,
which is cut away for observation. If the interior
of the box is painted black, the
effect will be better. The quality
of the eggs is determined by their
degree of clearness. A fresn egg
shows a clear, reddish, translucent
light; an egg fit, perhaps, for cook-
ing, but not for hatching, a less
clear light.

The accompanying engraving
(Fig. 31) represents a contrivance
for testing the freshness or fertility
of eggs, useful in the household or
to the poultry-fancier. It consists
of a small handle, with a cup in the
end of it; around the cup is fast-
ened a frame of sheet-tin or stiff
card-board. This frame has a hole
in the center, of the shape and size MT
of an egg, and a strip of black Fig. 31.
ribbon or cloth is fastened around |
the frame, projecting a little beyond the inner edge.
To test the egg, if, is placed in the cup, so as to fill

il

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NATURAL INCUBATION. 49

the space in thecenter of the frame, the edge of the
black cloth or ribbon fitting close to the shell. When
the egg is held close to a bright light, the light passes
through the egg, and shows a fresh or infertile one
fo be perfectly clear, while a fertile one that has
been sat upon, or that has been in the incubator two
days, will show the embryo, as in the engraving, as a
dark cloudy spot. Infertile eggs may then be taken
from the nest or from the incubator on the third to the
fifth day.

HO

CARE OF SITTING HENS.

March is the month to set hens, for the earlier after

this they are set, the better the chicks will prove. Of
course every hen has been set that would stick to her
nest during the past month; but as hens must lay out
their clutches before the sitting fever takes possession
of them, the larger number will not beready for the nest
before this month. Sell none but surplus eggs now, but
crowd the hens by setting all that can be relied upon.
When it comes to finding them all nests, much discre-
tion is needed, that confusion does not cause trouble
and loss. Of course, the simplest way to set them is in
rows in the hen-house ; but the hens will not all remem-
ber their own nesis, and will crowd two or three on one
nest, leaving their own eggs to become cold and perish.
It is advisable to set the hens in different rooms and apart
from one another; but if the nest rows must be used,
then there must be careful watchfulness. A good rule
is to keep the windows well darkened, so that the hens
will not be tempted to leave their nests until noon.
When you give the other chickens their noonday meal,
and while they are feeding, go into the hen-house, tuke

¥

Log yorsoe

50 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

all the sitting hens off the nests, and make them go out
to feed. While they are out, clear the nests of broken
eggs, dirt, and feathers, loosen up the straw a little, and
dust Persian insect-powder over the eggs. Now comes
the critical time. De not forget what you have done,
an‘. do not trust the hens, but within half an hour be
sv .e to return, and see that each is on her own proper
n-st, or you will have trouble every time they come off.
Hens are creatures of habit, and a little training goes a
great way with them. If they can be made to keep the
same nest three or four days, there will be little danger
that they will make any mistake about it for the re-
mainder of the time. That will save you the trouble of
moving them, but not the responsibility of seeing that
they return promptly to their nests after feeding. When
all is right, darken the sitting-room again and leave them
until the next day at feeding-time.

SECURE LAYING AND SITTING BOX FOR HENS.

There have been several devices, some of them patented,
for accomplishing this end, which we here show how to
do by a simple, home-made contrivance. Take or make
a box three feet long by two feet wide (a, a). ‘Take off

ione side, as shown in figure 32; tack on two cleats.
‘and fit in a partition (d). Take out the partition, and
cut a square hole, a little more than a foot square, near
one end, and a notch an inch wide and six inches long
on the opposite end. Make an opening for the hen to
enter by (0), in the end of the box above the partition,
and at the point where the notch is cut. ‘The partition
dforms the floor of the laying and sittingroom. A box
a foot square and eight inches deep is made to fit loose-
ly in the opening in the floor. This is the nest, e, It

NATURAL INCUBATION. 51

“is balanced on a hard-wood edge, upon the end of a
broad lever, which works upon another edge of hard-
wood affixed to the bottom. A weight, 4, placed near
the end of the lever, counterbalances the nest as may be
necessary, and a tin plate, g, attached to the end of the
lever will rise and close the opening 0, as a door, when
the weight of the hen causes the nest to descend. The
entire side, which is absent in the diagram, should be
fastened on by screws so‘as to be easily removed, or at-
tached by hinges to the bottom, so as to give access to
the working parts. ‘The sides of the nest must be

greased, and of course the tin door must move up and
down without any catching. The counterbalancing of
the nest should be so adjusted that the weight of six
teen average-sized eggs, say two pounds and a half, will
bring it down. No laying hen weighs less than this,
except Bantams, and perhaps some of the Hamburgs.
So whenever a hen is on the nest the door will be closed.
When she leaves it, the door will open. The advantages
are that only one hen will occupy the nest at a time, and
fighting over the eggs and breakage are thus prevented.
Then, when a hen is set and is likely to be disturbed,
the weight may be entirely removed, in which case the
door will remain closed, whether she is upon or off the
eggs. She may be let out towards evening, daily, after
the other hens have laid, or food and water may be

52 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

placed for her on the floor. In this case, a pane of seven
by nine glass ought to be inserted in the top, or on the
fixed side. At hatching-time she should be shut in un-
til she brings off her brood. It is, moreover, important
that a portion of the top (2) should be removable, or
hinged on so that.an attendant may have access to the
interior at any time. Access to the nest by egg-eating
dogs is by this method entirely prevented, unless the
dogs are very small, in which case a board a little
wider than the door, placed six inches in front of it, and
nailed firmly both at top and bottom, will exclude even
them.

A BROODING-PEN FOR HENS.

We have for several years used enclosed brooding-pens
for hens with much satisfaction. Success with poultry
depends wholly upon the convenient and effective man-

‘ s )
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Fig. 33.—BROODING-PEN.

agement of the brood hens and the chicks. When hens
cannot help it, they will do as their owners wish, and
there are then peace and comfort and prosperity in the
poultry-house. These pens are built around a part of

NATURAL INCUBATION. 53

_ the poultry-house, kept specially for the sitting hens.
Each one is four by four, and three feet high; it has a
hinged lid, which can be thrown back against the wall
when it is desired, for attendance upon the hen. The
front is covered with wire netting. ‘I'he nest, shown by
the removal of one side of a pen, is a box about sixteen
inches square open in the front, and having a very low
piece to keep the nest in it, and to permit the hen to step
in and out. When it is necessary, the nest is closed by
placing a piece of beard in front of it. This is done for
a day or two when the hen is restless, after having been
put in the nest. When she is settled down, the board
is removed. Hach pen is supplied with a feeding-dish
and water-cup, and is littered with sawdust. It is at-
tended to every evening by lamp-light; the feed and
water are renewed, and the droppings are removed, a pail
and small shovel being kept in the house for this pur-
pose. A pail of water and another of feed are carricd
to the house every evening. ‘The hensare thus keptun-
disturbed during the day, although they are visited regu-
larly to see that all is right. Hach hen is separate and
cannot see the others, and, the house being partly aark-
ened and kept warm, the hens are quiet and com{ortable,
and mind their business satisfactorily.

Cl A Pare as
CARE OF CHICKS—COOPS FOR THEM.

The foundation of the various poultry diseases is gen-
erally laid while the young chicks are in the coops.
There they are crowded in a confined place, which is
frequently damp and unclean. They are shut up close
at night in these impure quarters, or they are allowed to

Fig. 34.

go out early in the morning, while the grass is wet with
dew, and becomed chilled. Some die and some survive,
to live unhealthily and die finally of roup or cholera. To
prevent these troubles, the chickens, while young, should
have the very best of care. ‘The coops should be so made
as to secure cleanliness, dryness, ventilation. safety, and
to control the movements of the chickens. A coop of
this character, which is very convenient in use, is shown
in the accompanying illustrations. It is not costly, and _

(54)

CARE OF CHICKS—COOPS FOR THEM. 55 |

_it will pay to use it for common chickens. It is portable,
having handles by which it can be lifted while closed,
and moved to fresh clean ground. It therefore secures
cleanliness, as ground that has been occupied by a
number of chickens fora few days becomes foul and un-
wholesome. It is also provided with a floor-board or
drawer, which can be withdrawn every day, and cleaned.
If this is supplied with fresh sand or earth daily, the
coop will be kept clean and sweet, and the manure

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dropped may be preserved for use. It secures dryness,
because it is raised from the ground by feet at the
corners, and is covered with a broad sheltering roof. It
has good ventilation, even when closed, by means of
the wire gauze at the front, and by holes in the ends,
which should also be covered with wire gauze. It is safe;
no chickens can be killed in moving it; it is shut up at
night, so that no rats or weasels can enter, and the chicks
cannot roam abroad when the ground is wet. The
movements of the hen and chickens can be controlled
with facility, as the roof is hinged at the peak, and opens

56 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

to admit or remove the hen. The door at the front is
hinged, and, when opened, is let down to the ground,
and makes a sloping platform upon which the chickens
go in or out, and when closed is secured by a button.
Twice in the season the coops should be whitewashed

with hot fresh lime, which will keep them free from ver
min. Fig. 34 shows a front view of the completed coop,
arranged for two hens. Fig. 35 gives the rear view with
the floor withdrawn, to be enptied and refilled, as well
as the shape of the movable floor. In Fig. 36 is a sec-

Fig. 37.

tion of the coop through the middle, showing the manner
in which it is put together; and figure 37 is the drawer-
floor board. ‘There is economy in using such a coop as
this, as one hen, when well cared for, may be made to
bring up two or three broods together, and the hens dis-
carded as mothers go to laying again.

CARE OF CHICKS—COOPS FOR THEM. 52

BOX CHICKEN-COOP.

An ordinary dry-goods box may be used for a chicken-
coop. ‘T'o the openend a frame or lath is fastened, thus
making a run or yard for the chickens when the box
is placed upon the ground, as shown in figure 38.

Lhe box furnishes a comfortable place for the hen and
chickens during stormy weather, an escape from the hot
sun, etc. When not in use the lath frame can be taken
from, the box, its three sides and ends separated, and
stored away for use another season.

BARREL CHICKEN-COOPS.

Any old barrel that would otherwise be thrown away
may be put to good use in making a comfortable place
fora hen and chickens. Brace the barrel on the two
sides with bricks or stones to keep it from rolling; raise

58 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

the rear enough to bring: the lower edge of the open
end close to the ground; ( sive a few stakes i in front and

_ Fig. 39.

tne coop is complete. It is best to put the barrel near
a fence, that it may be ail the more secure and out of

the way. Nests for turkeys may be made in the same
way, in out-of-the-way places, omitting the stakes, and
putting in a good supply of straw to make the nest.

GARE OF CHICKS—-COOPS FOR THEM. 59

Very good chicken-coops may be made of old fiour or
fruit barrels. One way in which they may be made is
by removing the hoops from one end, and putting them
inside, in such a manner that the staves are forced apart
on one side, as shown in Fig. 39. The barrel is set on the
ground, with the open staves downward. On the other
side of the barrel the staves should be kept close to-
gether, as a protection against the weather and vermin.
Another way is to cut off the end of each alternate

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Fig. 41.—FEEDING-PEN FOR CHICKS.

stave,*in lines, about three inches from each other. The
halves of the barrels then taken apart, and set bottom
upwards, make very good coops, as shown in Fig. 40. If
a piece of leather is fastened upon the top of one of
these coops, so as to form a handle, it may be lifted and
moved to fresh ground very readily. Young chicks, that
are permitted to range with the large fowls, may be fed
without interference by the others, in an inclosure
which may be made as shown in Fig. 41. Common
laths are sawn into proper lengths and nailed to a
frame, three inches space being left for the chicks to go

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60 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

in and out. On one side the laths are cut off six inches
from the ground, and a strip, A, three inches wide, is
secured so as to be raised as the chicks grow larger, to
permit them to pass under it. If made ten feet long
and five feet wide, it will be large enough to feed 200
chicks. ‘The frames for the sides and ends may be at-
tached to each other by pins, or hooks and staples, and
when not in use they may be taken apart and packed
away until again required.

REARING EARLY CHICKENS.

Warmth is.the only requisite for rearing early
chickens, which one finds it difficult to provide early in
the season. But there is an easy way to furnish this fot
the early broods, where the other conveniences are con

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sistent with it; that is, where the poultry-house is tight
and warm, and is kept clean and free from vermin, and
where the fowls are fed judiciously. The illustration
(Fig. 42) represents an annex to a poultry-house, made
at very little cost. It was built at the end of the poul-

CARE OF CHICKS—COOPS FOR THEM. 61

try-house, and a door from this opened into it. It
measures ten by twelve feet on the ground, and seven
and a half feet high at the top of the roof. It required
seven common hot-bed sashes, purchased for one dollar
each (three of those are shown and the other four shculd
be seen under the overhanging eaves), and the rest of
the material cost about ten dollars. ‘The floor was the
ground, which was sandy and dry, and soon became
quite warm under the heat of the sun even in January.
When the hens wanted to brood, they were carried in
the movable nest into this warm house, where they were
fed and watered daily, and could enjoy a bath in the
dry, warm, sandy floor. The droppings were gathered
up daily in a pail, and carried ovi, and the house was
kept as clean and sweet as possible. When the young
chicks appeared, and had been nursed in the warm
brooder, which has been previously described, they were
given to the hen, who was put into a coop, and usually
two broods were given to each, and sometimes three. A
good, quiet Light Brahma or Plymouth Rock hen will
take twenty-four or twenty-five chicks and rear them
all safely when thus cared for, as the warm house
greatly relieves her from the work of brooding the
chicks and keeping them warm. The chicks are fed
four times a day, the chief food at the first being crushed
wheat and coarse oatmeal, with coarse cracked corn and
clean water in a shallow plate, in the center of which an
inverted tin fruit-can is placed, to prevent the chicks
frem running through it. The advantage of such a
house as this is that chicks can be reared that are fit
for market so early as to bring the highest price. An
instance may be given of the income from a small flock
of twenty light Brahma hens for a year, from January
to December, which left a clear profit of a little over
seven dollars per hen. It is quite possible to do this
with a flock of one hundred hens which are good brood.

62 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

ers, kept in one house and yard, and properly kept and
cared for with such help as this, to secure early broiling
chickens, as these bring a high price. A brood of eight
chicks, which is a fair average for each hen, sold at
seventy-five cents each, will make six dollars alone, and
some of the cockerels in the case mentioned sold in the
full for eighteen cents a pound, and weighed nine
pounds each, making one dollar and sixty-two cents
each.

BROODERS FOR EARLY CHICKENS.

The greatest profit in poultry-keeping is from the
early chickens. By good feeding and management
some of the hens may be brooding in January, and all
the chicks may be saved by the use of artificial brooders.
Incubators are used by experts with success, but farmers
and ordinary poultry-keepers are rarely successful with
these machines. Brooders, however, may be used by any
person, even a boy or girl, who will simply see that the
heat is not excessive, and when the chicks open their
mouths, give them fresh air. Highty degrees is quite
enough warmth for newly hatched chicks, which are
taken from the nest as they come out, and are placed in
the brooder until all the brood is out, when they may be
removed to a warm, glazed coop, with the hen. Young
chicks have been thus narsed until they were strong,
which ran about in the snow in February with great
pleasure and comfort, and not one was lost out of a lot
of ninety, which were all hatched in January. All that
is required is to have a warm part of the buildings or an
attic room for the setting hens, and glazed coops set in
a sunny place out of doors for the chicks when they
come from the brooder. The brooder (fig. 43) is a box
eighteen inches square or thereabouts, one end opening

CARE OF CHICKS—COOPS FOR THEM. 63

as a door and closing tight, lined with hair felt, or
blanket cloth, and having a shelf in the middle, and a
glass in the upper half of the door, so that the chicks
may be seen. A tin-heater having handles and a screw-
opening to put in the hot water, fits into the lower part,
which is also lined with the felt or double blanket. The
heater is filled with boiling water and put in its place,
wrapped in apiece of blanket to retain the heat and
moderate it. A nest, covered with a sheet of paper,
which can be removed when soiled, is.put on the shelf.
A pasteboard box, upon half-inch cleats, makes a good
nest. A thermometer is kept in the nest, so that the

Fig. 43,

warmth may be regulated by putting more blanket over
the heater, or by ventilating the brooder by holes in the
door, closed by corks. Chipped eggs will be hatched in
such a brooder ; weak chicks may be saved, and all the
losses by chicks being crushed in the nest are avoided.
The heat is admitted to the nest by holes in the shelf.

Another brooder is shown at Fig. 44. This is a
larger and shallower box, having a tray in the upper
part with a slatted or wire gauze floor, upon which the
heater rests ; a lid is made to cover this tray. This heat
descends through the floor of the tray into the lower
part of the brooder, which is hung closely with shert

64 _ PROFITS IN POULTRY.

folds of flannels or woolex cloth for the chicks to nestle
among. ‘I'his is shown in the illustration. A glazed
cover is put over the front of the brooder where the
chicks are fed. Newly hatched chicks do not want
feeding for twenty-four hours or more, but they will
drink some water (or, better, mi/k) eagerly, and this
should be supplied to them in a shallow plate. If one
is taken in the hand and its beak is dipped in the water,

it learns to drink at once. Crumbs of cern bread or
cracked wheat are good food for such young chicks
while they are in the brooder. It will interest some
persons to know that in some hospitals in Paris similar
warm brooders have been used for weakly infants for
many years, and the writer saw them there thirty years
ago, used in elmosé precisely the same manner as is here
described for the previously mentioned brooder for
chicks (Fig. 43).

CHAPTER VIL.
ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION.

INCUBATORS AND BROODERS.

In endeavoring to lay before our readers something
_ that may be to their advantage, I will avail myself of the
opportunity of deseribing that which is in pract.cal
operation, and do not call upon others tc assist me in
solving theories. ‘There are hundreds of methods of
hatching chicks artificially, as nothing more is necessary
than keeping the eggs for three weeks under certain
conditions of heat and moisture. What are those con-
- ditions, and why do failures occur so often, even when
every attention is given the process?
in the first place, there are a great many unforesee!

difficulties in the way that are overlooked or not antici

pated. An incubator cannot hatch every fertile egg,
neither can the hen do so; yet there are some manufac-
turers who claim that the incubators made by them will
hatch every fertile egg. To test the hatching of fertile
eggs, I procured eggs from two different places. After
placing them in the same incubator, and at the same
time, I removed all clear eggs by the tenth day. Of the
first lot of fifty eggs thirty-two were fertile, and of the
second lot of fifty there were thirty-four fertile eggs.
The eggs of the first lot hatched thirty chicks, while
every chick of the second lot perished in the shell.
Upon investigation, I found that the fowls from which
the eggs of the first lot had been procured were in fuili
health, and had plenty of exercise, a cockerel of about

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66 PROFITS IM POULTRY.

one year of age being mated with two-year old hens.
The eggs of the second lot were from hens that were
mated with a brother, and the flock had been bred in for
three years. ‘The consequence was that while there was
-Jife in each egg there was not sufficient vitality in the
chick to enable it to break out.

There are numerous reasons for not expecting full
hatches. Eggs from pullets do not always hatch, nor do
those froin hens that are very fat; yet such eggs may be
fertile. Eggs that have been chilled will sometimes con-
tain chicks that have advanced to the stage of ten days,
when placed in an incubator; besides, frequent handling,
or delay in placing them in the incubator, may also
affect the result. Hence, the first and most important
matter is to use eggs specially secured for the purpose.
The hen that steals her nest, by running at large, and
having all the privileges and advantages of exercise,
hatches nearly all the eggs, for the reason that if one
hatches all should do so, as they have the same parent-
age, while we are compelled to use eggs from different
hens, but few of them being alike inany respect. 'The
hen deposits her eggs where they are seldom disturbed,
while we subject them to frequent handling and change-
able temperatures. It is doubtful if any farmer would
consider himself unlucky if he succeeded in raising
seven chicks out of every ten hatched; yet this propor-
tion is equal to a loss of thirty in every hundred. If,
therefore, an incubator be used, this should be consid-
ered, and when the loss is apparently heavy, a compari-
son should be made with the work done by hens, which
will, as a rule, be in favor of the incubator and
brooder.

Having stated what the conditions should be, so far
as the eggs are concerned, the next step is to consider
the defects existing in many of the incubators that are
placed upon the market; and as I am not a manufac-

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 67

-turer, nor interested in the sale of incubators, I have no
object in view other than a desire to correct some of the
mistakes that have been made in the construction of in-
cubators. The supposition that a constant stream of
pure air must flow through an incubator is, in my
opinion, an error. Not that there should not be plenty
of pure air, but it should not pass through as a current.
The hen on the nest airs the eggs, but she keeps the air
still and motionless. The desire to regulate an incu-
bator has caused incubators to be constructed that open
and shut off the heat very easily; but an observer may
notice that they will often open and close the valves
every few minutes, thus causing the heat to change in
as many times, and to allow of slow or fast currents
according to the degree of frequency with which the
valves open and shut. The best machines are those that
slowly reach a point above or below the normal hatch-
ing point. Too much air passes into the incubators
and not enough in the brooders, as a rule. A little
chick does not require so large a volume of air as is
usually allowed, and a hundred of them together will
not consume so much as a small quadruped. If the air
is admitted below the eggs, there will always enough es-
cape to allow fresh air to enter for ventilation. We now
hatch them, in our section, in incubators holding 400
eggs each, by closing the drawer, allowing no mode of
ventilation other than to keep three or four one-inch
tubes open at the bottom of the incubator, and the
chicks remain thus shut up for twenty-four hours at a
time without inconvenience. In fact, by leaving them in
the drawer they are thoroughly dry and prepared for the
brooder when taken out. A regulator should be a very
simple arrangement. Some of them are so delicate in
construction as to do more injury than good, and it is
often the case that the regulator instead of the incubator
must be watched. The majority of persons put too

68 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

much faith in the regulator, relying upon it too implie:
itly, and often fail in consequence. Other incubators
regulate the heat very well, but cannot do away with
the work of watching the flame of the lamps. The
flame must be regulated according to the temperature
of the outside atmosphere. ‘T'o be successful the oper-
ator must determine that he will do the work himself,
and he must watch the incubator, whether it regulates
or not. He who attempts to raise chickens artificially
by using a self-regulating incubator without expecting
to do anything except to trust to the machine, will
always be of the cpinion that incubators are humbugs.
It means work and attention every time, but it is work
that pays if well bestowed.

In Hammonton we do not use any self-regulators at
all. Our incubators are simply tanks surrounded by
sawdust, made by placing the sawdust between an inner
and larger box, the tank being in the top of the inner
box. The tank for a hundred-egg incubator is 15x30
inches, 7 inches deep, and rests on strips around the
edges, with half-inch rods under it every six inches to
support the weight of water. The egg-drawer is 15x36
incnes, 6 inches‘fitting in the space at the opening when
the drawer is shut. ‘This space in the front of the egg-
drawer is also boxed off and filled with sawdust. The
ventilator is six inches deep, the egg-drawer three inches
deep inside. Two tin tubes, one inch in diameter, are
placed at the bottom of the ventilator to admit air.
Four inches of sawdust surround the inner box. A tube
on top of the tank, which passes through the boxes,
allows water to be poured in, while a spigot in front,
over the egg-drawer, permits it to be drawn off. This
tank is filled with boiling water. ‘The eggs are hatched
at 103 degrees. ‘The heat is regulated by drawing off 1
bucket of water night and morning. The eggs are
turned twicea day. Moisture is supplied with boxes of

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 69

moist s7nd tnder the egg-drawer, and by a few wet
sponges in the egg-drawer.

These incubators do not require any watching. No
one gets up inthe night to look after them. The large
body of sawdust absorbs heat, and gives it up to the
ego-drawer as it begins to cool; hence, the heat varies
very slowly. Ifa lamp is preferred, it may be attached
by having two tubes, one above the other, extending to
a small ‘‘boiler’” outside, which is heated by a lamp,
capable of accurate regulation, in the usual way.

HOW TO MAKE AN INCUBATOR.

~ To make this incubator, get your tinner to make you
a tank fifteen inches wide, thirty inches long, and
twelve inches deep, of galvanized iron or zine, the iron
being preferable. On the top should be a tube one inch
in diameter and eight inches high. In front should be
another tube, nine inches long, to which should be at-
tached a spigot.

Having made your tank, have what 7s called the ven-
tilator made, which is a wooden box with a bottom, but
notop. ‘The ventilator should be eight inches deep, and
one inch smaller all around than the tank, as the tank
must rest on inch boards, placed upright to support it,

or on iron rods. In the ventilator should be two or |

thres tin tubes, one half inch in diameter and six inches
long. ‘They should extend through the bottom, so as to
admit air from below, and to within two inches of the
top, or a little less.

Now make an egg-drawer, which is a frame of wood,
three inches deep, having no top or bottom, except at
the front, where it is boxed off and filled with sawdust,
which is covered over afterward with a piece of muslin,

(0 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

or boards, to keep the sawdust from spilling. Of course,
the egg-drawer must be made longer than the tank and
ventilator, in order to allow for this space which it fills
in the opening, which is the packing all around the in-
cubator. The bottom of the egg-drawer should be made
by nailing a few slats lengthwise to the under side, or
rather fitting them in nicely, and over the slats in the
inside of the drawer a piece of thick, strong muslin
should be tightly drawn. On this muslin the eggs are
placed in the same position as if laid in a hen’s nest.
It allows the air to pass through to the eggs for ventila-
tion.

Having prepared the tank, let it he covered with a
close-fitting box, but the box must not have any bottom.
This is to protect the tank against pressure of water on’
the sides, and to assist in retaining heat. Such being
done, place your ventilator first, ege-drawer next, and
tank last. Now place a support under the tank and the
box, or have them rest on rods, and as the weight of
water will be great in the centre, the iron rods should
be placed crosswise under the tank every six inches.
Now fasten the three apartments (ventilator, egg-
drawer, and tank) together, with boards nailed to the
sides and back and front (of course leaving the opening
fo the egg-drawer), care being taken to drive no nails
n the ege-drawer, as it must move in and out, and
should have a strong strip to rest on for that purpose.
Having completed these preparations, make a larger
box to go over all three, so that there will be a space on
the sides, back, front, and on top, but as the ventilator
must be filled with sawdust to within one inch of the
top of the tubes, it serves for the bottom packing.
Make the outer box so that there will be room for filling
all around the inside box with sawdust, and also on top,
being careful to let the tube for pouring in the water
come through, as also the spigot in front. The front

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. val

of the incubator must be packed also. The incubater
should be raised from the floor about an inch, when com-
pleted, to allow the air to pass under and thence into
the ventilator tubes.

The incubator being complete, the tank is filled with
boiling water. It must remain untouched for tweaty-
four hours, as it requires time during which to heat
completely through. As it will heat slowly, it will also
cool slowly. Let it cool down to 110°, and then put in
the eggs, or, what is better, run it without eggs for a
day or two in order to learn it, and notice its variation.
When the eggs are put in, the drawer will cool down
some. All that is required then is to add about a
bucket or so of hot water once or twice a day, but be
careful about endeavoring to get up heat suddenly, as
the heat does not rise for five hours after the additional
bucket of water is added. The tank radiates the heat
down on the eggs, there being nothing between the iron
bottom of the tank and the eggs, for the wood over and
around the tank does not extend across the bottom of
the tank. The cool air comes from below in the ven-
tilator pipes, passing through the muslin bottom of the
egg-drawer to the eggs. ‘The 15x30 inch tank incuba-
tor holds 100 eggs. Lay the eggs in, the same as ina
nest, promiscuously.

In regard to the sawdust packing. The bottom board
is wider than the ventilator. Kach corner of this bottom
board should be 2x3 well-fitted posts, the posts being
six inches (or whatever height desired), higher than the
three compartments (ventilator, egg-drawer, and tank)
when the three are in position. ‘To these posts fasten
tongued and grooved boards, and you will then have
the compartments enclosed with a larger box. Now fill
in your sawdust (sides and top), covering the top saw-
dust with the same kinds of boards, first boring a hole
for the tube on top, or fitting the boards around it by

72 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

bringing two boards together on a line with the tube,
each having a crescent cut into them thus ( ).. Be sure
and fasten up the compartments by nailing them to-
gether in such a manner that no sawdust can get in the
egg-drawer, and be careful to drive no nails into the egg-
drawer when fastening the three compartments. As the
tank should be covered with wood, it is best to fasten

wet gl os
WT Ee
ere. ST

uate

=

Fig. 45,—SECTION OF INCUBATOR.

uhe three parts together before making the outer box
which holds the sawdust, by nailing upright strips
closely together, fastening the top end to the wood sur-
rounding the tank, and the bottom ends to the sides of
vhe ventilator. We show in Fig. 45 a sectional view of
Fhe incubator.

DIRECTIONS.

To give the directions plainly, in order to avoid com-
pelling our readers to write us, we will repeat them, and
be es precise as possible:

The incubator should be filled with boiling water. It
will take a large quantity, but onco fil'ed it will remain
so. Let it remain shut up for twenty-four hou:s, in
order to allow the heat to go all through it. Always

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. "3

look at the thermometer as quickly as possible, as it varies
quickly. ‘The drawer should be at 103 degrees, and if
warmer than that leave the drawer out a little while
until it cools down, always shutting it up first, in order
to let the heat accumulate a moment or two before look-
ing at the thermometer. Never try to cool it with cold
water, for the heat is in the packing, and you can never
tell what the effect will be for several hours. Should
you add hot water, it will be from two to four hours be-
fore the increased heat appears. It is due to this fact
that the incubator is so reliable, as the heating and cool-
ing is gradual. When the thermometer reaches 110°
put in the eggs. The eggs will cool the drawer, but do
not be alarmed. Let them remain for an hour or two,
and if the temperature is then below 100°, add a kettle-
ful of water (nearly a bucketful), which wili return the
heat to about 103° in an hour or two. If the weather is
moderate, once a day will only be necessary for adding
water, but the better way to work the incubator is to
divide the twenty-four hours into three periods of eight
hours each, say 6 o’clock A.M., 2 P.M., and 10 P.M., when
a gallon of water may be added at each time, and the
eggs turned. ‘This avoids late night work, and gives
but little trouble.

Be sure and practice with the incubator for three or
four days before putting in the eggs, for by so doing you
will know just how much water to use.

The colder the weather the more hot water. All in-
cubators do best in an even temperature.

Keep a pan of water in the ventilator, changing it to
fresh water daily.

Keep the heat as near 103° as possible, and the last
three days not over 102°.

Take the drawer out in the morning and let it remain
out for the eggs to cool down to 70°. ‘Then turn the
eggs half way round, and place the drawer back. Make

ie

74 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

a mark on each side of the egg in order to be guided in
knowing which side is up correctly. Turn them morn- ©
ing and night, but cool them down only once a day.

Always keep a few wet sponges in the egg-drawer, as
they will indicate the moisture. Put the thermometer
in among the centre of the eggs, the top of the bulb on
a line with the top of the eggs, the upper end of the
thermometer kept slightly raised.

Three weeks are required for hatching, and the tem-
perature should not get below 98° nor over 105°.
Should the eggs be over-heated, let them cool well,
sprinkle them, and put them back. Heat as high as 108°
for a short time is not necessarily fatal. Never sprinkle
as long as the sponge keeps moist, and always sprinkle
with tepid water.

BE SURE your thermometer is correct, as one half
of them are incorrect, the low-priced ones being as true
as the highest-priced ones. Place your thermometer
next to a hen’s body under the wing; shut down the
wing closely upon it; let it remain so for a minute.
Then quickly look at the thermometer, and it should be
at 104°. It is best, however, to have it tested in a pan
of warm water, by the side of one known to be correct.

Do not keep the incubator where there are any odors.

When the chicks hatch do not remove them until
they are dry; then put them in the brooder. Keep the
heat in the brooder at not less than 90°. Feed at first
hard-boiled eggs for a day or two. No food should be
given the first twenty-four hours. ‘Then feed oat-meal
and corn-meal, cooked and moistened with milk. Feed
four or five times a day, at first, for a week. Keep fine
screenings, cracked corn, fine gravel, fine-ground oyster-
shells, pulverized charcoal, and clean water always where
they can get at such, and keep everything clean: Give
mashed potatoes, chopped onions, or cabbage, or any-
thing that serves as a variety. Be sure and not crowd

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. "5

them. Divide them into small lots. Feed in little
troughs.

An egg-drawer two feet wide and three feet long will
hold one hundred and fifty eggs with an egg-turner. A
drawer three feet wide and four feet long holds three
hundred eggs. Only one drawer can be used to an in-
cubator.

BROODERS.

The principal conditions necessary in a brooder are
plenty of fresh air and sufficient heat to prevent the
chicks from crowding. We have a building here, now
in operation, divided into ten apartments, each apartment
being five by seven feet and accommodating one hun-
dred chicks. The building is fifty feet long and ten feet
wide, and a passage way running its whole length, and
taking up three feet of the ten, leaving the spaces for
the chicks seven feet. ‘I'he yards are sixteen feet long
and five feet wide. ‘The chicks are all brooded with a
stove. ‘T’o describe how it is done, we will explain that
Fig. 46 is a box six inches deep, three feet wide, and fifty
feet long. ‘T'wo-inch iron pipes are arranged as shown
in the illustration, the top of the box being removed to
show the interior. ‘he hot water may be supplied by
an ordinary stove ‘‘ water back,” or by a coil of pipe in
a stove. ‘This is heated by a piece of pipe one inch in
diameter, coiled in a stove, holes being cut in the stove for
the purpose of admitting pipes. The hot water flows out
and the cold water flows in. The floor of the box is made
close, with tongued and grooved boards. The cold air
enters through tubes reaching to the outside of the build-
ing. Itis heated by coming in contact with the pipes,
and enters into the tubes on the top of the floor, which
are two anda half inches high. Over these tubes are

76 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

little tables, one yard square and three inches high,
with strips of cloth tacked around the edges.

The advantages of this breoder are, that it. gives the
heat from the top, as the warm air strikes the under side of
the table (or brooder) and diffuses itself over the chicks,
which cannot crowd easily, as there are no sides or cor-
ners. ‘The warm air is pure, as it comes in fresh from
the outside, and serves as heat and ventilation at the
same time. Figs. 46 and 47 show the ground plan. ‘The
building has a window to each apartment, which is hung
to a weight, so as to move up or down. Hence, when
the window is up each apartment becomes ashed, open to
the south. The chicks have a sand floor to scratch in,
and are allowed to run in the yards when two weeks
old.

This building, together with the heating arrange-
ments, did not cost over one hundred dollars. Thechicks
are about ready for market, and are expected to realize
six hundred dollars gross. The cost for feeding the
chicks to the age of ten weeks is ten cents. The total
cost, including the value of eggs, food, and other ex-

penses is about nine cents per pound. ‘They will average
one and a half pounds when eight weeks old, and often
bring fifty cents per pound. The building contains one
thousand chicks, and as a new brood can be put in every
ten weeks, it will hold five thousand in a year. The
building and yards do not take up more than twenty-six
by fifty feet of space, or less than one thirtieth of an |
acre. ,

The chicks are fed on hard-boiled eggs the second day,
no food being given them the first day. Then milk and
bread are allowed. On the fourth day they are fed on a
mixture of one part corn meal, one part bran, and
one part middlings, with a small quantity of bone
meal and ground or finely chopped meat. ‘They are
fed five times a day till feathered, then four meals are

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. Gh

given. Chopped cabbage, onions, and other green food
are supplied. Skimmed milk may be used in the food,
which should always be scalded or cooked. Plenty of
water, gravel and dry earth are kept before them, a few
screenings being scattered in the dirt to induce them to
scratch. In giving water never allow them to become

Fig. 46.—INTERIOR OF BROODER BOX.

Showing hot-water pipes and cold-air pipes.

wet, as dampness is fatal. Avoid dottom heat in a brooder,
as it causes leg weakness. It is always better to have too
much heat in the brooder than too little, but the reverse
is the case with an incubator.

A light, sandy soil is best for chicks. Hence, poor

Fig. 47.—ToP OF BROODER BOX.

Showing one of the brooder tables, and one space with table removed to
show hot-air tube.

and unproductive locations can be thus used with advan-
tage. Chicks require unceasing care, but by raising
them in large numbers, labor may be economized. ‘lhey
need no care at night, other than to keep up the fire,
which may be arranged so as to give sufficient heat till
morning, They should be fed very early and late.

%8 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

When ready for market correspond with a reliable com-
mission merchant before shipping.

We have two or three large broiler establishments here.
In one case two young ladies are hatching several thou-
sand chicks annually, and they find it very profitable.

Fig. 48.--GROUND PLAN OF BUILDING.

- Showing brooders, stove, and water-barrel.

As stated, nearly all the failures come from the eggs, and
rot the incubators, and until poultrymen realize this fact
taey will meet with disappointment. 'The loss does not
exceed seven per cent, and that includes the weak chicks
and all that die by accident. No gapes or lice effect
them, as everything is kept very clean. As to what may

Fig. 49.—STOVE, WATER BARREL, AND END OF BROODER BOX.

be expected it may be stated that if fifty chicks are mar-
keted from every one hundred eggs used, the result will
be satisfactory, but this includes loss of bad eggs, dead
chicks, and other causes. The chicks grow faster than
when with hens, as they receive better care and can be

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. "19

counted at any time. They are safe from all enemies.
My advice to beginners is to begin with asmall incubator,
and experiment the first year. Experience will be the best
teacher. Do not expect too much, and do not expect to

Fig. 50.—BROODER HOUSE, WITH YARDS OMITTED.

raise chicks without work. Watching, care, and labor
are essentials. No incubator or brooder, however well
regulated, can be trusted. ‘They are treacherous. But

they will return a handsome profit if properly managed.

ey!

CHAPTER VIII.
PREPARING FOR MARKET.

FATTENING POULTRY.

No fowl over two years old should be kept in the
‘poultry-yard except for some special reason. An extra
good mother or a finely feathered bird that is desirable
as a breeder may be preserved until ten years old with
advantage, or at least so long as she is serviceable. But
ordinary hens and cocks should be fattened at the end
of the second year for market. When there is a room
or shed that can be closed, the fowls may be confined
there. The floor should be covered with two or three
inches of fine sawdust, dry earth, sifted coal-ashes, or
clean sand. ‘The food should be given four times a
day, and clean water be always before the fowls. A
dozen or more fowls may be put at once in each apart-
ment. One of the best foods for rapid fattening, for
producing well-flavored flesh and rich fat, is buckwheat
meal, mixed with sweet skimmed milk, into a thick
mush. A teaspoonful of salt should be stirred in the
food for a dozen fowls. ‘Two weeks’ feeding is sufficient
to fatten the fowls, when they should be shipped for
sale without delay and other lots put up for feeding. If
the fattening-coop is kept dark and cool, as it should
be, the fowls will fatten all the quicker for it.

en a eee

WHEN TO MARKET.

Poultry which it is not intended to winter should be
- fattened before really severe weather comes on; other-
(80)

PREPARING FOR MARKET. 81

wise money will be lost by them. They will barely hold
their own in December on feed which caused them to
increase rapidly in weight a month earlier. Those who
have , watched the market know that autumn prices
usually are highest a little before and a little after
Thanksgiving, say about the middle of November and
soon after the first of December. ‘The reason is that
those who are fattening fowls keep them back for a
short time before Thanksgiving-day and before Christ-
mas-time, in order to get them in prime order for sale at
those times. ‘The result is usually an over-stocked mar-
ket and plenty of cheap poultry. Soon after the first
of January prices go up again; and well they may, for
one or two months’ feed has been consumed and very
little weight added.

Capons grow rapidly, and their growth takes up the
food, so that we have to wait until growth stops before
they fatten. It is well, therefore, that this delicious
class of poultry should not make its appearance before
the first of February, when the game-laws prohibit ven-
ison, quail, and other choice game from being exposed
for sale. At this time, consequently, fat capons and
pullets meet a good market, and even during Lent,
when a considerable portion of the Christian world ab.
stain from meats, there is a sharp demand for the high.
est-prized meats to grace the table of the rich on Sun-
days. It is therefore well to have fine capons ready to
supply this demand.

DRESSING AND SHIPPING.

The directions sent to their customers by Messrs. E.
& O. Ward, 279 Washington Street, one of the oldest
commission houses in New York City, though very

6

32 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

brief and concise, give the results of an extensive expe-
rience and present all the essential points in dressing
and shipping for that market. They say: ‘‘'To insure
highest market prices for pou:try, they must be well
fattened; crops empty when killed; nicely and well
picked and skin not broken or torn; thoroughly cooled,
but not frozen. Pack in boxes with a layer of clean
straw (rye-straw the best) between the layers of poultry,
in the same posture in which they roost. Mark each
box, specifying what it contains. Send invoice by
mail. Ship to reach us about the middle of the week
—should never reach us so late in the week as on Satur-
day.

“There is the greatest demand for fine and fat turkeys
for Thanksgiving; for prime and nice geese for Christ-
mas; for extra large and nice turkeys for New-Year’s-
day. On all these occasions shipments should reach us
two to five days in advance. If you cannot find any
profit in sending poultry of prime quality and well pre-
pared, you need not look for any in that of ordinary or
poor qualities.”

An ordinance adopted by the Board of Aldermen of
New York City, and approved by the Mayor, is as fol-
lows:

‘‘Srotion 1. That no turkeys or chickens be offered
for sale in the city unless the crops of such turkeys and
chickens are free from food or other substance and
shrunken close to their bodies. That all fowls exposed
for sale in violation of this ordinance shall be seized and
condemned; such of them as shall be tainted shall, upon
examination, be destroyed, and the rest which are fit
for food shall be used in the public institutions in the
city. :

‘“‘SECTION 2. Every person exposing for sale any
chicken or turkey in contravention of this ordinance

PREPARING FOR MARKET. 83

‘shall be liable to a penaity of five dollars for each chicken
or turkey so exposed for sale.”

This ordinance took effect the first day of October,
1882.

DRESSING POULTRY—THE NEW ENGLAND METHOD.

While poultry for some markets is rarely, if ever,
drawn, that for the Boston and other New England
markets—at least that of the better class—always has
the entrails drawn when the birds are killed. There is
something in favor of both methods. In the former,
no air being admitted into the cavity of the body, it
keeps in good condition much longer than it would if
- opened. On the other hand, if the poultry is kept too
long there is danger that any food which may be in the
crop, etc., may ferment, even if nothing worse takes
place, and impregnate the flesh unpleasantly. <A poul-
try-raiser of Ayer, Mass., gives the following direc-
tions: |

‘‘ Hirst catch the chickens. Slide your hands care-
fully among their legs until you can grasp the desired
one; hold quite still until the neck is grasped. Cut the
throat near the under side of the bill quite deeply; then
with the right hand upon the legs hold the wings over
the back to avoid fluttering. Always drain the blood
into the chicken’s pail. If the fowl is wanted for im-
mediate use, scald it for about half a minute, being care-
ful to get the tail and wingsunder. ‘Take out and strip
the legs quickly from the feet towards the head. Hold
a handful of feathers in the hand, pushing the feathers
from tail to head. Scald three minutes in three quarts
of water. Make a small slit behind and on the side of
the crop, one chick after the other. Then take out en-
trails and crop and windpipe, carefully removing the

84 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

liver from the gall. Take the gizzard to the pail and
open and skin with another knife. Cut off the head and
legs, putting these ina pile. When cold, cut them up
and put them into the pail for your hens. This refuse
thus disposed of is worth at least one cent per fowl. By
scalding one can dress about six in an hour, while dry
picking is much slower.”

OO

SAVE THE FEATHERS—FEATHER-BONE.

Few persons are awere that the coarse wing-feathers
of turkeys and ducks, which cannot be used for dusters,
and are generally a nuisance about the farm-yard, are of
any value. Large poultry-raisers especially will be glad
to learn that a recent invention of Mr. E. K. Warren
of Michigan has created a demand for these hitherto
worthless feathers, and that a company is now manu-
facturing, out of the quills of feathers, an excellent
substitute for whalebone, vine by the way, is becom-
ing scarce and dear.

The feathers are first stripped of their plumage by re-
volving shears, then the quill is divided into halves by
delicate machinery, after which the pith is removed to
be used as a fertilizer. Analysis has shown it to be
rich in nitrogen, and therefore very valuable on the
farm. The split quills are cut into narrow shreds and
braided into strong strands by machinery. These
strands are in turn combined until there is produced a
firm elastic band so strong that great power would be
required to break it. This is sewed lengthwise many
times through with colored threads, the feather-bone
taking various colors from the kind of thread used.
Though the business is only a few months old, a hun.
dred persons are employed, and it is daily increasing.
Patents have been secured in the leading European

PREPARING FOR MARKET. 85

countries, and large offers have been made for the right
to use feather-bone in making whips, corsets, etc., but
the inventor chooses to reserve his rights. One who
has never given any attention to the subject scarcely
comprehends the demand for a substitute for whalebone.
This commodity is said to be even better for many pur-
poses than the whalebone which it imitates.

|
|
{

a ame

UE AP Tan ike
PRESERVING EGGS FOR MARKET.

To preserve eggs for a considerable time the pores of
the shell must be stopped up, for two reasons : to pre-
vent the entrance of the air, and consequent spoiling of
the contents, and to prevent the evaporation of the moist-
ure of the egg and a drying-up of the contents. There —
are two principal methods of doing this. One is, to
smear the surface of the eggs with something that will
close the pores, and then pack them in some material
that will practically exclude the air. The eggs are
smeared with lard, coated with linseed or cotton-seed
oil, or with shellac varnish, and are afterwards packed
in bran, dry sand, or other similar material. These
methods will answer for home use ; but whatever may be
the coating material, the surface of the shells will have
an unnatural appearance, which will prevent their ready
sale in the markets. The only practical method to pre-
serve eggs to be sold is to place them in milk of lime,
which is another name for whitewash, and is prepared
precisely as for whitewashing. The fresh eggs are
packed in a barrel, and the lime-wash, well stirred and
then strained, is poured over them. ‘lhe eggs must be
fresh when packed, and must be kept in a cool place.
The eggs, according to the extent of the operations, are
placed in barrels or in brick vats or tanks, built for the
purpose. The dealers who handle large quantities of
eggs have brick tanks built ina cool cellar. Any vessel,
such as a but or barrel, will answer the purpose in a
small way as well as the tanks. The eggs when sent to
market are removed from the lime and thoroughly
washed, and when dry are packed in barrels of cut straw,

(86)

PRESERVING EGGS FOR MARKET. 87

Jike other eggs. In the New York market they usually
bring about five cents a dozen less than fresh eggs.
When packing eggs for private use, it is well to wait un-
til September, when the fowls, having had a good run
on the stubble fields and about grain barns, begin to
lay plentifully, and eggs become cheap. ‘Take perfectly
fresh eggs, and pack them in a butter firkin, or barrel,
and pour over them milk of lime, or thick lime- wash,
after it has cooled, and head up the keg; or pour over
them the strongest brine ; or smear the eggs with cotton-
seed or linseed oil, and pack them on their broad ends
in wheat bran in a keg, barrel, or box, very tightly, and
each week turn it over so as to reverse the position of
the eggs. The last method has been found to be exceed-
ingly satisfactory. Eggs packed in dry salt will not keep
for any great length of time.

PACKING EGGS IN A BARREL.

A great number of eggs are lost every year through
imperfect packing. The salablo value of a package of
eggs is measured by that of the poorest part of it; the
good always have their value diminished by the bad ;
but the poor eggs are never raised in value by the good.
If by poor packing any part is damaged, the whole is
depreciated together. A badly packed barrel of eggs is
a miserable thing to look at, and worse still to handle,
especially when the weather is warm and a very few old
nest eggs have been packed with the good ones, which
does sometimes happen in spite of care, though not when
only glass nest eggs, which never spoil, are used. The
barrel should be a good one, clean, strong, and well
hooped. Atthe bottom is placed three inches in depth of
clean, dry, sweet rye or wheat straw, cut in a fodder-cut-

88 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

ter into chaff not over half an inch in length. Upon
this the first layer of eggs is placed on their sides, near
together, but not touching. Some of the cut chaff is
then scattered over the eggs, so that it falls between
them and fills the spaces. ‘Then one inch in depth of

haff is laid upon them, and another layer of eggs placed
t pon it. The number of eggs in each layer is marked
upon a tally. An ordinary-sized flour-barrel will hold:
70 dozen. It is not well to crowd more than this into a
barrel. The chaff and eggs are placed in alternate lay-
ers in this way until the barrel is one-third full, when a
piece of board is laid upon the chaff and pressed down
carefully to make the mass solid. This is done again
when the barrel is two-thirds full, and it is then shaken
gently to.settle the contents. When the last layer is
packed, it is covered with three inches of chaff, which
should project an inch or more above the chine of the
barrel. When the head is pressed down steadily and
slowly into its place with some shaking of the barrel,
the eggs will be held so firmly that no shaking they may
receive in the course of their journey will loosen them,
and asevere jar will not break any of them. When they
arrive at their destination they will be in good order, and
bring the highest price, having cost no more to pack,
except a little extra trouble, than the poorest barrel that
may come to market. Musty or damp straw, or poor
grain, will give a scent and flavor to the eggs which will
injure them, notwithstanding it is generally supposed
that an egg-shell is impervious to such influence. Cut
wheat or oat straw is the best packing, wheat or oat chaff
is the next; good sound oats area good but expensive
packing ; hay is very poor material, and buckwheat bran
the worst, as it so readily heats. When the barrel is
packed, the number of eggs! init should be plainly marked
upon the head.

PRESERVING EGGS FOR MARKET, 89

PACKING EGGS FOR WINTER.

Of the various methods practised for preserving
eggs for winter use, one of the most effective is that
employed by the dealers who buy when the supply is
large and prices low. This is as follows: Brick vats,

Fig, 51,—VAT FOR PICKLING TGGS.

or wooden tanks, are constructed in cool dry cellars,
partly sunk below the level of the floor, as in Figure 51,
the dotted lines showing vhe portion below the ground.
These vats and tanks,—or casks, which may be used in-
stead,—are partly filled with a preservative mixture of

Fig. 52.—kGG LADLE.

thick lime-water, or milk of lime, to which are some-
times added salt and a small quantity of cream of tar-
tar (bi-tartrate of potash), and the eggs are placed in
this mixture and kept covered. The eggs are placed in
the tank by means of a peculiar dipper (Fig. 52), made
of a round. shallow ‘in pan, with a ong nanaie, the sn

eon
—— ian

90 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

being perforated to drain off the liquid. The eggs are
lowered to near the bottom, and gently rolied out, with
little risk of breakage. Here they remain until required
for sale. If they were fresh when packed away, they
will come out after three or four months so little changed
that few persons would be able to distinguish them from
fresh ones. When wanted for sale they are taken out of
the pickle with the dipper, and carefully placed in the
crate, shown at Fig. 53. This is made of laths; but an
open splint baaket would answer the purpose as well.

1

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Coererorenen ornare Al | 315111
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Fig. 53.—CRATE FOR IMMERS- Fig. 54.—TuB FOR DRAINING
ING EGGS. THE EGGS.

A large low tub, as half a hogshead, is provided, and
two boards are placed across the top, as seen in Vig. 54.
The crate of eggs is placed upon the boards, and water
is run through it until all perceptible traces of lime are
removed. In this method of preservation there is noth-
ing that may not be done in a small way, and with any
substituted apparatus which will answer the purpose,
One thing is imperative—the eggs must be fresh when
packed, or they cannot be kept in a good condition for
several months.

PRESERVING EGGS FOR MARKET. 91

THE MARKET FOR POULTRY AND EGGS.

The magnitude of this most important branch of ag-
riculture is little appreciated by the casual reader, yet
the millions of dollars represented in the annual product
of poultry and eggs go far toward making up the farm-
ers’ profits of the year. In an investigation made not
loug ago by American Agriculturist, it was brought out
that there is a permanent investment in this industry vf
about $340,000,000, comparing very favorably with some
of the great cereals, and with various branches of live
stock. A rapid growth has been made in recent years,
particularly since the date of the last federal census,
from which the figures of poultry and egg product were
taken. Inasmuch as the census includes only poultry
on farms, the business is really very much greater than
indicated, counting in towns and villages.

By the census of 1890, there were 259,000,000 fowls,
11,000,000 turkeys, 8,440,000 geese, 7,544,000 ducks, in
the United States, and the annual product of eggs was
819,728,000 dozen.

The production of poultry yards is all wanted at home,
although exports of eggs, smail at the best, have within
the past year or so exceeded the imports. Practically
no poultry is shipped abroad. The import movement
is remarkable. Up to the imposition, in 1890, of a tariff
of five cents per dozen, the foreign egg imports, chiefly
from Canada, were enormous, approximating sixteen
million dozen annually. The five cent duty cut imports
rapidly, and they were less than two million dozen in
1894, increasing considerably the next year under a
lower rate of three cents per dozen, but proving unim-
portant recently. The 1897 tariff resulted in a restora-
tion of the old rate of five cents.

92 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

FOREIGN EGG TRADE, YEAR ENDED JUNE 30.

Exports. Imports.

Dozens. Av. value. Dozens. Av. value. ; Duty.
1897 1,500,183 13.9 cts. 579,681 8.2 Cts. 3 Cts.
1896 328,485 14.6 947,132 9.3 3
1895 151,007 16.7 2,705,502 Ty 3
1894 163,061 16.1 1,791,430 11.1 5
1893 143,489 23.1 3,318,011 11.8 5
1892 183,063 17.4 4,188,492 12.4 5
1891 363,116 17.6 8,233,043 10.8 5
1890 380,884 15.4 15,062,796 13.7 free
1889 ' 548,750 13.8 15,918,809 15.2 es
1888 419,701 16.0 15,642,861 14.8 Pie
1887 372,772 16.3 13,936,054 14.1 as
1886 252,202 18.2 16,092,583 13.5 ss
1885 240,768 21.5 16,098,450 15.4 as
1884 295,484 22.0 16,487,204 16.2 ce
1883 366,023 20.8 15,279,065 17.4 me

—_—_ eT

EGG MOVEMENT AND MARKET: RECEIPTS AND PRICES AT LEADING
POINTS.

New York. Chicago. Boston.

Rece’pts; Prices (in cents) |Ree’pts| Prices (in cents) Prices (in cents)

Mil doz|Apr.1 Sept.! Dec.1|Mil doz/Apr. 1 Sept. 1 Dee. 1/Apr.1 Sept 1 Dee.1
1897 83.1 11 19 25 ¥*44,7 % ©6133 19 14 23 32
1896 77.8 123 18 27 69.0 10: 113 22 16 20 33
1895 68.5 144 17 Pall 64.6 12 13 20 15 23: 28
1894 69.7 12 19 27 63.2 10 15 21 13 22 30
1893 63.4 16 18 28 51.9 ee ale! a1 18 22 a0
1892 60.7 133 22 32 64.6 13 174 24 15 26 35
1891 56.0 20 193 293 41.8 17% =163 26 22 23 35
1890 51.5 17 24 32 44.3 14 163 25 18 24 35

1889 142 16) 20%) 30:6: | "MOL: 14s > ok 15 22 32
1888 29. YO 3196 PIG | aa eG oe 4: et 80
1887 Ee euch Cu aleas lees 16.5. Ol oreo
1886 18 17. 26. | 129 14h) ete yo
1885 1k eh | 9S 7) 1aes 175 1 ee
1884 | 25.6 | 23 19 29 24 20 29
1883 | 21.0 | 20 232 313 1 8 32

*The vear 1897 incomplete; express receipts missing. Earlier years
include both freight and express receipts.

a ae

Oy ER Ac Weer:
CAPONIZING—HOW IT IS DONE.

Strange as it may seem, we have met with a number
of ordinarily intelligent persons who supposed a capon
to belong to a distinct race of fowls, as do Games, Ban-
tams, etc. For fear that others may have a similar no-
tion, it may be well to say that a capon isa castrated fowl,
It bears the same relation to other male fowls that an
ox does to a bull, and may be produced from any breed
of fowls. A capon brings in market 50 per cent more
than an ordinary fowl, and often double the price of a
common male bird ; besides, a capon will reach double
the weight of acommon fowl at the same age. Asthere
is no difficulty whatever in caponizing, and the instru-
ments cost very little, the practice might become very
general. 7

Capon raising is a profitable branch of poultry culture
which is not likely to be over done. The art of capon-
izing is easily learned. A neighbor of the writer learned
to practice it a few years ago, and last year raised a large
number of these delicious fowls. He informed me that
he lost not more than two per cent, and that there is no
need of losing any if the birds are empty of food, and
the operator has sufficient light to do his work well.
Good fat capons will bring fifty per cent more per pound
than other fowls will sell for, and very large capons much
more than that. ‘The conditions for success are the pos-
session of hens of a large breed, and the use of judicious
crosses to produce quick growth with hardiness of con-
stitution and aptitude to lay on flesh.

A poultry producer of large experience says: ‘‘ Hav
ing practiced the operation for several years, the writer

(93)

94 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

can truly say that by using no more care, and with
no more skill, than is needed in operating upon a
male pig, not more than one out of 30 or 40 fowls need
be lost. For several years the writer has operated on
from 12 to30 fowls each year, and the loss during that
time has not been more than five or six birds in all.
The operation is best performed upon chickens about 3
months old, although it will succeed, if carefully done,

LEAR
gy, i

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AW

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Fig. 55.—CAPONIZING TABLE.

with the majority of fowls when they are 10 or 12 months
old. As with many other operations, this is one that
can be learned most readily by seeing it done, and we
advise those who would undertake it to procure instruc-
tion wherever it is available. Still, if one has a little
confidence, he will meet with success if the directions
‘here given are carefully followed. In the first place, a
table is needed in which a few screw-eyes are inserted

ei Si ae

CAPONIZING—HOW IT IS DONE. 95

‘at convenient places; these are furnished with broad
tapes, by which the bird is securely held during the
operation. ‘The best plan for a novice is to kill a bird
and operate upon that first, in order to learn the posi-
tion of the parts. Lay the dead bird upon the table,
dispose it as hereafter described, and then place the
screw-eyes where they would be needed to secure a live
fowl.

““One or two will be required to hold the wings, and
one for each leg; six will be all that will ever be neces-
sary. Place the bird upon the table and fasten it down
upon its left side, as shown at Fig. 55, where the rings
and tapes are seen. ‘The spot where the opening is to be
made is shown by the x. Here the feathers are plucked,

SS ee

Fig. 56.—SPRING HOOK. Fig. 57,.—HOOK,

and an opening is made through the skin witha pair of
shart-pointed, long-bladed scissors. We have found
these better than a knife. The skin is drawn to one side
and an opening is made with the scissors between the
last two ribs for an inch and a half in length, great care
being taken not to wound the intestines. ‘The ribs are
then separated by the spring hook (Fig. 56), so as to ex-
pose the inside. The intestines are gently moved out of
the way with the handle of a teaspoon, and the glands
or testicles will be seen attached to the back. The tissue
which covers them is torn open with the hook (Fig. 57)
aided by the tweezers (Fig. 58).

““The gland is then grasped with the forceps (Fig. 59)
and the cord is held by the tweezers. ‘The gland is then

95 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

twisted off by turning the forceps; and when this has
been done, the other one is removed in the same way.
Care must be taken not to injure the blood-vessel which
is connected with the organs, as this is the only seat of
danger in the operation, and its rupture will generally
be fatal. The hook is then removed, and if the skin
has been drawn backward at the outset it will now slip

Fig 58.—TWEEZERS,

forward and cover the inner skin which covers the intes-
tines, and close the opening. No stitching is needed.
A few feathers are drawn together on each side of the
opening and plastered down upon the skin with the blood,
where they wili dry and form the best possible covering
to the wound, which will begin to heal at once. The
bird should be fed with a very little soft bread and milk
for a few days after the operation, but should have

0A
‘TN ATT iN

Fig. 59.—FORCEPS.

plenty of water. For two nights and one day before the
operation no food nor water should be given to the birds ;
this will greatly facilitate the work and reduce the
chances of loss. The operation, after a few successful
trials, may be performed in less than one minute, and by
the use of the rings and tapes, no assistance is needed.
Oupons may be made to earn their food by fostering
young chicks, to which business they take very kindly.

CAPONIZING—HOW IT IS DONE. 9”?

To bring them to their full and most profitable size,
they should be kept until the second year. By giving
them corn-meal steeped in warm milk, and providing a
warm house, they will grow during the whole winter,
and their flesh will become very white, sweet, and juicy.
A good capon of one of the large breeds will weigh 12
to 15 pounds at 22 months old, and will bring at the
holiday season $2.50 to $3 each.”

ANIA ANN Sop
FA\\\ Ne ==

SNS NS 4

|
)
i

CHAPTER XI.
POULTRY-KEEPING AS A BUSINESS.

One newspaper correspondent asks how many fowls
will support a family of six persons, as though it was a
matter of figures, and only necessary to procure a certain
number of fowls and a house, and start them laying
eggs and producing chickens to secure a permanent in-
come. Now it is quite sate to say that any person who
knows so little about the troubie and risks of poultry-
keeping as this would fail in it and lose his money, un-
less he should start with a dozen or two fowls, and go
through an apprenticeship to the business. For a cer-
tain class of persons poultry-keeping is a very appro-
priate business, and may be made profitable. Those
who are possessed of plenty of patience and persever-
ance, kindness and gentleness of disposition, a scru-
pulous love of order and cleanliness, a habit of close
observation and quick perception, and a ready tact in
finding out the cause when anything goes wrong, and
in quickly remedying it, will generally succeed in keep-
ing poultry, while those not so endowed will generally
fail, and should never attempt it. Again, one must be
able to justly appreciate either the difficulties or ad-
vantages of his location, such as the character of the
land and its surroundings, the supply of food and the
available markets. It would be folly to keep fowls on
the borders of a forest or the margin of a swamp, on
account of the vermin which such places shelter; it
would be a great advantage to be located near a number
of summer boarding-houses, wliere there is a good de-
mand for eggs and chickens, or near a large city, where
early plump chickens sell sometimes for 7% cents a

(98)

POULTRY-KEEPING AS A BUSINESS. 99

pound, and where cheap food in the shape of various
kinds of offal can be procured. A want of knowledge
how to seize upon ali the advantages that may offer, or
to avoid the difficulties presented, will be fatal to suc-
cess. Upon the character of the ground will depend
greatly the kind of buildings needed. Buildings suit-
able for flocks of poultry kept for business and profit,
where the available ground is of small extent, are shown
in other chapters. ‘The crops must be raised for food
or shelter for the chickens, and to encourage the presence
of insects, upon which the young chicks may feed.
Sheltered by the rows of corn-stalks, or the stalks of rye
or potatoes, the chicks are safe from hawks, which will
not swoop down upon them except in clear ground.
The coops are kept in or near this plot, being moved
daily to fresh ground. ‘The chickens are kept busy
scratching in the loose ground, and there are few
potatoes raised but what are scratched out and eaten
by them. This furnishes them with employment and
with some wholesome food, and it is for this purpose
alone they are planted. If the owner of such a chicken
farm is a gardener or florist, and his wife manages the
poultry part of the business, producing every year two
or three hundred pairs of chickens for market, besides
egos and old fowls, success may be deemed reasonably

certain.
ee OO

MONEY MADE BY POULTRY KEEPING.

It seems that the interest in poultry is increasing, and
that more poultry keepers, instead of being absorbed by
the insane idea that every one is going to get rich by
selling fancy eggs at $3 a dozen, or poultry ready to lay
at $3 to $5 a piece, are giving attention to raising eggs
in winter, broilers in spring and summer, fat pullets in
autumn, and capons in winter. In these products there

106 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

is steady and sure profit. Of course a few will succeed
as breeders of fancy fowls, but the number is limited,
and they must have good judgment and perceptions,
with persistence and perseverance.

ADVANTAGE OF CROSS BREEDING.

What breeds to cross is a problem which has not yet
been solved. Asiatic fowls were bred pure, and also
mated with Plymouth Rocks, which itself is a recog-
nized cross-breed, but an established one. ‘The result
was that the cross-breed pullets and cockerels are several
pounds keavier than the Asiatic pure-bred ones, which
have had equally good care, feed, and other conditions
of growth. Those cross-bred chickens, instead of mak-
ing a great growth of stilts at first, and subsequently
laying a modicum of flesh and fat upon them, are
always ready for the table, and profitable to send to
market, after they are as large as quails. The first cross
' makes, as a rule, the greatest improvement upon the
parent breeds, and a number of practical questions come
up, in regard to the subject of poultry raising, with the
view simply to produce the iargest amount of meat
which will bring the highest price in the market. For
instance, as in the crossing of Brahmas and Plymouth
Rocks, or any Asiatics, with games, should the hens be
of the larger breed, or the reverse? Which breeds
crossed will develop the greatest early maturity? The
greatest weight at the most profitable ages ? The great-
est weight and plumpness at the best market periods ?
Which makes the best capons? ‘There have been a
good many half-made efforts to solve these and kindred
pr oblems, but it can hardly be said that definite conclu-
sions have been arrived at.

CHAPTER XII.
HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT.

COMMON SENSE IN THE POULTRY-YARD.

The ‘‘ poultry” that everybody keeps are technically
designated ‘‘ Fowls,” or ‘‘ Barn-door Fowls.” As a rule
they are kept in small flocks, fed chiefly upon what no
farmer misses. On most farms a flock of twelve to forty
hens will pick up a living without receiving a particle
of grain from May to October, including both months.
Their food consists of insects, seeds, and grass or weeds ;
they need fresh water besides. What wonder is it that
fowls thus kept are demonstrably more profitable than
any Class of stock, or any crop on the farm?

This is the best way to keep fowls, provided they can
be induced to lay where their eggs can be found while
fresh. ‘To accomplish this a house of some kind is
needed where the fowls may be shut in occasionally for
a few days at a time, so as to make them roost and lay
in convenient places. If fowls can roost in the trees,
lay all over the farm, and ‘‘dust” themselves in the
road, they will almost surely be healthy, lay a great
many eggs, and keep in good condition. Besides, every
now and. then a hen will unexpectedly appear with a
brood of ten or a dozen chicks, hatched under some bush
where she had ‘‘ stolen” her nest and done her hatching.
That is all very well, so far as the hen is concerned, but
no one wants it to happen. We wish the hens to lay
and sit where we can put what eggs we please under
them for hatching—and, what is still more important,
we wish to be able to collect the eggs for use or for sale
daily. A fresh egg isa joy, a delight, a good gift of
Heaven—a pretty good egg is an abomination. An
egg, to be fit to eat, or for sale, must he fresh hevona a

(101)

102 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

peradventure, and utterly untainted with a suspicion of
having been brooded or weathered. ‘For this reason it
is a most untidy thing to use natural nest-eggs. The
nest-egg, after a while, is almost surely gathered, and of
course is not ‘‘ right.” |

The trouble about fowl-houses, even with liberal yards,
is that fowls do not do well constantly confined. ‘The
number of eggs falls off, and the fowls become subject
to disease, and especially to vermin—lice. All poultry-
houses are liable to become thus infested, and the only
cure and preventive is dust, and dustiness. It is best to
provide extensive dusting-boxes—not out-of-doors some-
where, or under a cow-shed, where the fresh winds will
carry off the stifling dust rendered disgusting by its
‘‘henny” smell; but in the house itself, so that the at-
mosphere of the entire establishment will become thus
dust-laden and oppressive. Dust will settle everywhere,
and one entering will need a white coat as much as
does a miller. The hens will revel in the dust, however,
and it will keep the lice down if not exterminate them.
_ The hens not only enjoy it, but dust isa necessity and

a luxury to them, just as a morning bath is to civilized
man. ‘The dusting-box is their toilet-table—in fact,
bath-tub, wash-bowl and pitcher, sponge and _ brushes
and soap, and it gives health and long life as surely as
the free use of water does to human beings.

As to feed—if fowls are confined they lose a great
variety of food which must be, in some way, made up
to them. When we depart from a close following after
nature, we begin to complicate matters. Watch a hen
as she trips picking about: now she takes a bit of grass
or other greens; now she strips the seeds out of the
seed-pod of some weed ; now she makes a vigorous dive
after an insect, and so on all day she scratches and for-
ages. So a variety is essential to the health of fowls in
confinement. 'They need grain and soft food, chopped

OSS ee

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT, 103

scraps, or other flesh diet, and some grass, or other
greens which they like—such as lettuce or cabbages.
They must have plastering, oyster-shells pounded fine,
or some other source of lime, besides fresh water con-
stantly.

Better than all, they need an afternoon run, and a
chance to scratch and pick in the door-yard, road, ane
barn-yard, if there be one. Here let us protest against
hens being made use of as scavengers for picking up and
cleaning up filth about the back-door. ‘There is no bet-
ter habit for farmer folks to cultivate in regard to poul-
try than on every occasion to drive them away from the
kitchen door, and never to throw out anything that they
tan eat anywhere near the house. ‘The practice of hav-
ing a slop-hole—or spot near the back door where dish-
water and other ‘‘slops,” containing more or less that
hens will eat, are thrown—is a filthy one at best. All
such water should be thrown upon the dung-hill or com-
post heap. Here the hens may pick up many a crumb,
and the manure will be greatly benefited.

In the matter of varieties the fancy breeds are best
let alone by any one who does not make a business or a
pastime of poultry-keeping. It is very pleasant for a
person who keeps but a dozen or twenty hens to have
them of some choice breed, and to take great pains with
them ; studying into their habits, their ‘‘ points,” and
all that. But few persons have either the taste or in-
clination to be successful breeders; so, as a rule, it is best

to keep common or mixed hens, but a full-blooded cock -

of one of the best breeds.

For general use most persons who have had experience
will agree that the Plymouth Rock fowls are excellent,
and either these or the Dominiques, or one of the Asiatic
breeds, are to be recommended if a pure breed of fowls
is desired for eggs, broilers, capons, and fat cockerels
and pullets. For eggs alone, the White Leghorns are

See ks

104 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

preferable; but they are neither economical for the table,
nor are they to be depended upon as sitters aud mothers.
It is an excellent plan to use full-blooded cocks, making
a change, not of cocks alone, but of the breed, every two
years. Thusa recent writer, speaking of his own practice,
says: ‘‘A stock ofg Light Brahmas were bred with a
Dorking cock two years, then with Plymouth Rock
cocks, and now I shall probably take a Brahma cross in
the hope of effectually eradicating the tendency to throw
pink-legged chicks, a relic of the Dorking cross, and
black ones, which come from the Plymouth Rocks.
After that I shall recur to the last-named variety, as I
find it gives me earlier and better broilers, plenty of
eggs, and fowls always fit for the table.”

eit)

SALT IN THE RATION FOR POULTRY.

There is a prevalent notion that salt causes the
feathers of fowls, or perhaps of the feathered tribes in
general, to fall out. ‘This, we believe is well founded.
Certainly, excess of this condiment should be avoided.
There appears to be some connection between salt and
feathers. Feather-eating fowls are often cured of the
tendency by adding salt to their food, and a small quan-
tity of salt in the ration promotes, or is supposed to pro-
mote, the production of the new crop of feathers at
moulting-time. This supposed effect may be simply the
loosening of the old feathers. ‘The result, as promotive
of moulting, would be the same. Salt is a very impor-
tant ingredient in the ration of pigeons, and where these
birds are confined without it, they are never so thrifty.
It is natural, then, to conclude that it is valuable in the
food of other birds, and especially for barn-door fowls.
The earlier old fowls are out of their moult and in ful)

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT. 105

' plumage, the sooner will they begin to lay in the autumn.

Pullets usually begin to lay as soon as they are com-
pletely plumed as adult fowls. It is worth while, there-
fore, to encourage moulting in every way, giving them
exercise, insect food, or fish in their ration, with ground

bone, ground oyster-shell, and sound grain. A table-

spoonful of fine salt in the soft feed, given daily to a
flock of twenty hens, will be a fair allowance. Fowls do
not depend upon this for the salt which their bodies and
feathers contain, for either the material itself, or the
elements of which it is composed, exist to a greater or
less extent in almost all the food they eat and the water
they drink; and what we do by giving them salt is simply
to increase the supply.

GREEN FOOD FOR FOWLS.

Fowls cannot be kept healthy without a good range,
or a supply of green food in their yards. An excellent
plan is, to have a roomy yard provided for them, and
plant it with plum or dwarf pear trees. Plum-trees are
very little troubled by curculios when planted in a
chicken-yard, and good crops of fruit are secured, bar-
ring accidents of weather at the blooming season. The
yard is divided into two parts; one is used for a month,
while the other is growing up with some green crop, as
turnips, oats, peas, rape, or mustard, which are very ac-
ceptable to the fowls. This yard is then used, and the
other is plowed and immediately sown. ‘This keeps the
ground clean, provides suitable food, and avoids most
effectively the troublesome disease known as gapes; the
fatal cholera is also evaded by this management; the
health being improved, more eggs will be laid.

106 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

CHARCOAL AND STIMULANTS.

Poultry in domestication are not in anatural condition.
Their diet is more or less restricted in variety, and that
which they have is frequently of a character to fatten
rather than to promote growth or egg-laying. This may
be in a measure counteracted by condimental food or
stimulants. Before such measures are taken the poultry-
raiser should provide everything else necessary or de-
sirable—grain in variety, broken bones, oyster-shells or
other form of lime, green food of some kind, cabbage or
roots, gravel, and adry-dusting box; besides, pure water;
and if milk or buttermilk can be had, a trough for that
should be provided.

Stimulants must be regarded not as food, but as
medicine, used sparingly, and never daily. One mess of
stimulating food once in two or three days is enough.

Charcoal should be a stand-by. It defends against
disease, keeps up the tone of the system, aids digestion,
- and promotes laying. Feed it powdered, and mix it up
with wheat bran and Indian meal. Add to this mixturea
heaping table-spoonful of powdered Cayenne pepper for a
dozen fowls, given every third day, or every second day
in acold snap, and continued for about ten days or two
weeks, now and again, is promotive of laying and of
health. This soft feed may be mixed with hot boiled
potatoes, and fed either in the morning or at noon.
Besides the hard grain fed at evening regularly, so that
the fowls or other poultry may go to roost with full
crops, and a little wheat scattered among leaves or straw
to make them scratch for exercise, they will need little
else.

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(107)

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT. “09

SPECIAL FEED CROPS FOR POULTRY.

Every poultry-breeder understands the value of havy-
Ing a variety of food, and that it is essential for the
health of the fowls and the production of fertile eggs
from which he can expect strong, healthy chickens.
One can imagine the result to a community who would
try to live exclusively on corn; yet probably nine out of
ten who raise poultry think their duty done when they
have scattered before them their quart of corn and gath-
ered the eggs. This treatment may appear to fulfill all
necessary obligations when fowls can have unrestricted
range through the summer season, as nature seems to
provide means for sustaining life for feathered as well
as human tramps. The necessity of providing corn,
~ sometimes with wheat and oats for winter food, is gen-
erally understood; but if to these were added a supply of
the other grains and vegetables of which fowls are fond,
we would not hear so much complaint as now of stock
‘running out” and producing nothing but scallions.

As to the special grains, we may name buckwheat as
one of the most valuable for the production of eggs.
Sunflower-seeds should also be included in the bill of
fare of all well-regulated poultry-yards. The large
amount of oil they contain seems to be especialy valu-
able for young, growing chickens. They also give a
gloss and brilliancy to the feathers probably unequaled
by any other food. Even when fed in large quantities, ~
no bad effects follow, as the husk or shell must be taken
with the meat. An experiment was tried, one winter,
by an observing poultryman with two flocks, one of five
pullets and a cockerel of Plymouth Rocks, the other of
twelve pullets and a cock of Light Brahmas, these lat-
ter having a well-appointed house, with all of the
‘‘modern improyements,”—sunlight, dust-bath, etc.

110 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

The former were in a small coop about four feet square,
with a covered run formed by throwing cornstaiks o1
some poles, and setting a hot-bed sash up against the
south side. ‘The food for the two coops was scalded
Indian meal. They were both fed from the same dish,
and in proportion according to their numbers. The
Plymouth Rocks laid well, and gained in flesh all win-
ter. ‘The Brahmas ‘‘ went back,” both in eggs and in
flesh. ‘The reason was that the former had’ the strip-
pings from the cornstalks to help in the assimilation of
their food, which the latter did not have. ‘This proved
conclusively that some such coarse food must be pro-
vided if we would have the fowls thrive. Well-cured
green cornstalks, and young, tender grass and clover
should be provided for poultry as regularly as hay for
other stock.

The soft or poor heads of cabbages, stored by them-
selves, probably are the cheapest and most easily ob-
tained green food for poultry during winter. Two or
three heads hung so that the fowls can easily reach
them, around the sides of their coop, and renewed when
necessary, will well repay the trouble. If one is going
extensively into the raising of young chickens for an
early market, it will pay to sow lettuce-seed in a box,
and place it in a warm, sunny window. The young and
tender leaves are easily grown, and will add greatly to
the health and growth of the chickens. Onions should
also be grown and kept for feeding. They are by many
considered as a remedy for the chicken-cholera. If
chopped moderately fine, they will be eagerly consumed
by fowls. ‘Tobacco should also be grown by every poul-
tryman who wishes to keep his stock free from parasitic
pests. Pull the plants before frost, and hang them in
the barn or shed to dry. A handful of the leaves in the
nests of sitting hens, particularly, will add a great deal
to their comfort, and more to that of their young. It

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HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT. 113

makes no difference whether the tobacco is ripe or not
before pulling. Hemp-seed will be found useful for
young and valuable chickens, but the sunflower is a
god substitute, and much more cheaply raised. Pep-
pers are a most useful condiment during the winter
months, helping greatly in the production of eggs
through the cold weather. A sma!l number of plants
of the long red variety will produce a plentiful supply,
much cheaper and purer than the ordinary ground
cayenne of the stores. Use them in connection with
potatoes and meal. Set the potatoes on the stove after |
supper, and boil them until soft. Set them on again
when the fire is started in the morning, and bring toa
boil ; pour off the water, add in one or two chopped
pepper-pods, and then add meal, meal and bran, or corn
_and oats ground together. Mash all together, and make
a firm, almost crumbly, mass. This is suitable for a
morning meal, but not for night. Beans well cooked,
either whole or ground, will help fill up the list of foods.
Rape-seed is easily raised, and would be useful for
choice young chickens. Seeds of the common millet,
golden millet, sorghum, and broom-corn will make
a variety in the list of good cheap foods. Egyptian
corn, a kind of sorghum, is valuable for young or
old fowls. Itis raised as easily as corn, and will pro-
duce bountifully. Barley, rye, and oats are well known
to be acceptable to the inhabitants of the poultry-yard.

WINTERING FOWLS IN COLD LATITUDES.

Extreme care with poultry is necessary in cold lati-
tudes to prevent many frozen feet, and even great loss of
life during the cold weather, and it not unfrequently
happens that entire flocks are frozen to death. Hence,

114 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

keeping fowls in winter means simply keeping them
alive and well until the spring; eggs are hardly expected.

First, prepare a warm place, well secured from cold
winds and shifting snow. A corner in the stable is per-
haps best, as the warmth of the stock in the stable is a
great help to the chickens. But an independent fowl-
house may be made, by digging a cellar, say eight by ten
feet, and three feet deep. Build a sod wall three feet
thick and five or six feet high around the excavation,
with a door in the east and a window in the south
side. ‘The window should be double, with one sash at
the outside and another on the inside of the wall. Around
the door, build an entry or vestibule of sod, with its door
opening outward. Plaster all these walls upon the in-
side. ‘The earth taken from the cellar, mixed with
water, will answer to plaster with, and the whole can be
done in a short time. The first coat will crack; the
second coat should be very thin. ‘The cover or roof may
be made of poles and straw. If the poles are strong
mough, some earth should be put over the straw, to
make the roof warmer. ‘The perches should be made
low, and stationary strips arranged, so that the fowls can
find their way to the perch, even during the dark,
stormy weather. In the second place, the feed must be
so arranged that each fowl can both find and eat it in
the dark. ‘To secure this end, take a board, one foot
wide and four feet long; around this nail four strips
three inches wide; two of these strips should be four
feet long and the other two fourteen inches long, so as
to form a box four feet long by twelve inches wide and
two inches deep. Next, cut laths into three equal
parts, and nail them perpendicularly around this box,
two inches apart. Secure the tops by nailing around
the outside of a similar board to the bottom, leaving an
opening to put in the feed. ‘The feed should always be
placed in this box, and the box should always be kept in

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT, 1;

* one position, so it may be as easily found during a storm
ason a bright day. Plenty of food, such as the fowlscan
eat, without seeing it, should always be kept in the box.
A vessel of milk-warm water should be set in the box
each day, but removed before any ice 1s formed therein.
A wire screen, or one made of slats, may be placed un-
der the perch, to keep the fowls from walking in the
droppings, as it isvery essential that they keep their feet
dry. When the weather is pleasant, let the chickens
out into the fresh air awhile each day, but keep them
out of the snow. Wheat and screenings may well be
kept, say an inch deep, all the time at the bottom of
the feed-box, whatever other kind of feed may be given
extra.

—_+4——=

SELECTING, SELLING, ETC.

Before a fowl is sold, a lot of the best pullets should
be picked out, which, with the pullets kept the pre-
vious winter, will make up the regular flock. The two-
year-old hens should be sold in the spring, as soon as
eges become cheap; they sell better at that time than at
any other. A hen has seen her best laying days when
she has completed her second year. If eggs are the chief
object in view, the cockerels and surplus puilets should
be sold as early as possible. The pullets kept for winter
layers should be well fed and brought to maturity as
rapidly as possible, and they will begin laying in October;
and if they are cared for as herein advised, will lay
steadily all winter.

——_eo2o—___
EGGS IN WINTER.

Winter is the very time when eggs are worth the
most, when hens want to lay as much or more than they

116 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

do at auy other time, and when they are not allowed to
do so by most poultry-keepers. “‘olks think there isa
great mystery about making hens lay in winter. There
is none; anybody can do it; that is, the hens will lay
if you let them. They bear a good deal of cold in the
sunshine, and even freeze their combs and toes, and yet
will not stop laying altogether if they can sleep warm.
Now do not begin to plan setting up a stove in the hen-
house, or introducing steam-pipes. Artificial heat is
not poisonous perhaps, but very nearly so, to chickens.
They are warm themselves, and need only to be crowded
on their roosts, with the roosts all on one level. The ceil-
ing of the roosting-room should be only a few feet above
the fowls’ heads, and provided with ventilation from the
floor if possible. Give them very close quarters, with no
draughts of cold air, and clean out under the roosts every
morning, not excepting Sundays. ‘The combs will then
redden up, and eggs will be plenty on less feed than
usual. It must not be corn, however, or only a smail
percentage of it, for this will make them too fat to lay
well if they sleep warm.

A capital way to arrange a hen-house for winter 1s to
make a ceiling of rails about six feet above the floor, cov-
ering the rails with salt hay, or coarse swamp hay of any
kind. The roosts should be about three feet high above
the floor, and movable, so that they may be kept per-
fectly clean. For small flocks of thirty to nfty hens, it
is little trouble to take the roosts down every morning |
when the flooris cleaned, and replace them at night. It
removes from lazy fowls the temptation to sit in idleness
on the roost for half the day.

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT, av,

PREVENTION AGAINST LICE,

Almost all poultry are lousy, more or less. ‘‘ A. B.”
ways: good arrangements for dusting will always keep the
lice in check. The small hen louse moves along the
roosts and sides of the building several feet, and some-
times annoys cattle and horses, but the trouble to them is
quite temporary. If the fowls are free from them, they
will leave other stock at once. Roosts ought always to be
removable, so that they can be scraped and washed with
kerosene. I find kerosene or crude petroleum an excel-
lent addition to whitewash. ‘This treatment, with a good
dusting-box for the fowls, in which there may be occa-
sionally thrown a pailful of wood ashes and a pound of
flowers of sulphur, will keep lice effectually in check.
Horses and cattle in adjoining apartments, with only
loose board partitions separating them from the poultry-
house, will not be seriously troubled by the vermin.

Senne atacnenmemmmead

A POULTRYMAN’S CROOK.

J. L. Cunningham, Gonzales Co., Texas, writes us:
It is often troublesome to catch one out of a number
of fowls in acoop. ‘To save time and labor in such a
case, I make use of an instrument like the one here
figured. A small rod, three fourths of an inch in diam-

AAS A PS ISS | aces

Fig. 61.—HOOK FOR CATCHING POULTRY.

eter and three or four feet long, is provided with a fer-
rule at one end. A stout, medium-sized wire, about one
foot long, is bent at one end, and the long end of the
wire inserted firmly into the ferruled end of the rod.
Then by reaching into the coop of fowls with the rod,
the one desired may be caught by the foot, and gently

118 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

drawi. within reach. Ido not think the above invention
has ever been patented, and it is too good to keep. By
its use one person may handle a coop of fowls, which
without it would require at least two or three persons to
accomplish.

EG

PASTURING POULTRY.

The farmer whose acres are broad can enclose his gar-
den with a fence, and let the poultry run at will, but
villagers and suburban residents, living on small lots,
must enclose their chickens if they desire to cultivate
either a garden or the good will of their neighbors.
During the spring and summer months it is necessary
that chickens have a supply of fresh, tender, green food,
if kept in a healthy, growing condition. They cannot
eat grass when it is tall enough to mow, and the refuse
of the garden is little better than husks. A good plan
is to pasture the chickens. Make a wire cage, put it on
wheels having flanges, lay a track for the wheels to run
on, and sow oats between. ‘The frame is three feet high,
six feet wide, and eight long. The upper part is 2
by 2-inch pine; the sills 2 by 4 inches. The wheels
are sawed from 2-inch oak plank, and turn on 1-inch
bolts. The flanges are 1-inch stuff, nailed to the
wheels. The track is 2 by 2-inch stuff laid on the
ground, the strips being thrown on top as the cage passes
along. Wire half the thickness of fence wire is strong
enough. The soil between the rails should be worked
over, and sown with oats early in the spring and in suc-
cessive sowings. When an inch high it will do to pas-
ture. Havea small door in the poultry. yard to match
the one in the cage. Half an hour’s pasturing each day
will do the chickens more good than any amount of
green stuff thrown to them. When the crop seems ex-
hausted, let the fowls scratch it over ; then sow again.

HINTS ABOUT MANAGEMENT. 119

HOW TO GET LARGE BIRDS.

Many purchasers of fine stock, or of their immediate
descendants, fail to secure as fine birds as the seller raises,
and are unhappy. They hear of eighteen-pound light or
dark Brahma cocks, and twelve-pound hens of some noted
breeder, or of mammoth bronze turkeys weighing sixty
or more pounds to the pair. They order the eggs or
young birds of such stock, hand them over to some ser-
vant or neighbor, who is not skilled in breeding, feeds
irregularly, or regularly stints them, and at the end of
six months wonder that they have not first-class birds,
equal to the advertisement. ‘They think they have been
cheated, and set down the breeder asa rogue. There
are men, no doubt, in the poultry business who cannot be

rusted, but there are also a large number of men who
have brought capital, skill, and integrity to their busi-
ness, and who would not knowingly let a poor fowl go
from their yards. ‘They sell, uniformly, stock true to
name, but at so early an age that the development does
not always answer expectations. A turkey does not get
its full growth until the third year, but most of them are
sold at from four to eight months. Ducks and hens are
not fully developed until the second year, and yet most
of them are sold under nine months old. While it is
true that large stock is essential to the raising of large
birds, another factor is quite as essential. This is abund-
ant feed during the whole pericd of growth. The grand re-
sults obtained by our skillful breeders are reached by care
and feed, after they have selected their stock. To make
the most of a young bird, it should be fed with a variety
of food at least five times a day, from daylight in the
morning until the middle of theafternoon. It is well to
omit late feeding, to give time for digestion. Slack or
full feed will make a difference of six pounds in the

120 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

weight of a turkey-gobbler at eight months old, which
is the most of the difference between an ordinary and
an extraordinary bird. Persons who buy thoroughbred
young birds of good breeders should not expect to buy
the skill of the breeder with his stock.. That is a com-
modity that cannot be bought for money. It can only
be gained by daily attention to the details of poultry
breeding.

CHAPTER XIII.
‘SOME POPULAR BREEDS.

The agricultural interest owes much to poultry-fan-
ciers. ‘Those who devote their attention to fancy poul-
try are too often misunderstood by farmers as well as
by others. As in many other cases where people devote
themselves to some special pursuit—or hobby, as it is
considered—the poultry-fanciers are generally looked
upon as enthusiasts, who simply amuse themselves, with-
out conferring any benefit upon the public; an error
which does the poultry-breeder great injustice. In
nearly every farmer’s yard may be seen either some pure-
bred or some crossed fowls that are much superior to
the ordinary run of ‘‘barn-door” poultry. The com-
mon fowls may weigh three pounds at maturity, and
may lay two or three dozen of eggs in the summer, and
none in the winter. But the improved fowls, now kept
by the majority of farmers, will reach an average weight
of four pounds, and produce eggs, if not in the winter,
at least very early in the spring, and continue late in the
fall. The product of flesh and eggs is at least doubled.
This result is due to the labors of poultry-fanciers, who
have ransacked the world for new varieties, until per:
haps there are none worth having that are not now te
be found in this country.

No one can become a successful breeder of poultry—
indeed one can hardly succeed in anything—unless he
is an enthusiast; therefore enthusiasm, when usefully
directed, is something to be commended rather than
blamed. The profit derived by small farmers from
poultry is usually an important item in their income.

We therefore advocate the improvement of poultry

(121) :

122 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

by encouraging those who make it the business of their
lives.

It is especially advisable that farmers should at least
procure pure-bred cocks or cockerels for breeders, yet
such a thing is the exception rather than the rule. In
regard to this matter, Mr. Evans says: Many of the
farmers can readily realize that it pays to use pure-bred
bulls, or pure-bred rams, or pure-bred boars in their
herds and flocks of cows, sheep, and swine; but they do
not seem to realize that the same rule holds good with
poultry, and also that the benefits are secured very
quickly. This infusion of pure-bred blood amongst a
flock of good common hens is sure to be of great benefit, .
as the constitutional vigor of the common stock intensi-
fies the good qualities derived from the thoroughbreds,
producing in point of early maturity, size, and laying
qualities something both desirable and_ profitable,
thongh these half-bloods cannot with anything like uni-
formity transmit thes? improved qualities to their off-
spring. First-class pure-bred cockerels can be bought at
a moderate figure, and we do rot see how farmers can
afford to use the common ones in preference, no matter
how good they may be. If large size is most Cesired,
the Asiatics will be found to answer well, while for laying
qualities principally we commend the Leghorns.

The popular breeds of the day may be classed among
elther the Asiatic, Huropean, or American varieties.

G EAP Ei eV.
ASIATIC BREEDS.

The Brahmas, Cochins, and Langshans, which com- |
prise the standard Asiatic breeds, have many desirable
qualities. They are docile, not mischievous; fair layers,
persistent sitters, and good mothers. As a class, there
‘is little difference between the varieties; what may be
said of one will generally apply to the others, the color
of plumage being the chief point of preference that de-
cides a choice.

———16

LIGHT BRAHMAS.

The Light Brahma is now well known amongst
breeders and fanciers, but is not yet nearly so popular
amongst farmers, and those who rear poultry for mar-
ket, as it should be. The small head, the lofty carriage,
the broad full breast, the deep round body, the short,
stout, well-feathered legs,—all mark the high-bred bird,
and one producing a great amount of flesh with the least
offal. Thisis one distinguishing feature of the Brahma
fowl which renders it a profitable breed for the farmer.
No other bird excels it as a winter layer; and as it is a
good mother, the plentiful fluff about it serving to keep
the chicks warm in the coldest weather, and as the chicks
are hardy, it is easy to have very early birds. The
young birds, as broilers, are remarkably juicy, well-
flavored, and tender; and the young cockerels of four to
six months, weighing, as they easily do, six to eight
pounds, make most excellent roasters. As with all high-
bred, pure races, the half-breed crosses of these, upon

(123)

124 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

common stock, are nearly as good as the pure breed.
To introduce one young cock for every twenty-five com-
mon hens would be to easily double the value of the
farmer’s yearly product.

From the time of its first introduction to American
poultry-breeders, the breed has been held in the highest
esteem. Other varieties have come up, the Plymouth
Rock and Wyandottes, as market birds, and Leghorns in
variety as ege-producers; still the Light Brahma has held
its own as a family fowl among the lovers of choice poultry.
Although quiet and unassuming in style, it has great
dignity of carriage, and is really a majestic fowl. In
excellent qualities for family use, itis hardly approached
by any other. Its flesh is juicy and tender; and as it
puts on flesh very fast, it remains a ‘‘ chicken” until
fully grown. ‘The excellence of the hens as layers de-
pends greatly on how they were bred, for some families
are extraordinary egg-producers taken in comparison
with other large-bodied fowls. ‘They are layers of large,
buff-colored eggs, which are very rich, and great favorites
in the market. In disposition they are very kind and
quiet. An ordinary picket-fence, three feet high, will
restrain them ; and if handled gently, they can be picked
up atanytime. The plumage is white with black points.
The tailis black, as are also the flight feathers of the
wings, which are not discernible when the wings are
folded. ‘There is also a fine penciling of black in the
neck. It has a ‘‘ pea,” or triple comb, which, being
small and set close to the head, is proof against all or-
dinary frost. They are easy to rear, very hardy, quick
growers, and make very heavy fowls. On a well-kept
lawn, there is nothing handsomer than a flock of Light
Brahmas.

It is an interesting fact in connection with this breed
that it is the only one of the Asiatic breeds not received
through England. The original birds were brought

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ASIATIC BREEDS. 127

by a sailor to New York, obtained by a Connecticut
breeder, the late Virgil Cornish of Hartford, bred and
brought out by him.

Oe

DARK BRAHMAS,

In an article which recently appeared in a. poultry
journal, the writer says: ‘‘ But few of the breeders are
aware of the fact that this beautiful breed was perfected
in the hands of our English breeders, out of a brood of
chickens that were bred by mating a Black-red Shanghai
cock witha Gray Shanghai (or, as then called, Chitegong)
hen. But this is the fact. They were sent to England
by an American breeder.

‘<There was no more heard from them, and the word
Dark Brahmas, as a distinct breed of fowls, was not
known in America till 1865, when the first importa-
tion was made. ‘The assertion that the Dark and Light
Brahmas were bred from the same original stock with-
out crossing is not true. The first imported ones came
with far more single-combs than Pea-combs. The breeding
of Pea Comb Brahmas to Partridge Cochins produced new
blood; and later we began to get them of less Cochin
shape and in every way improved. Such was the early
history of the breed.

“Tt is not a very flattering thought for home industry
that we must send the crude material to a foreign
country to be woven into a web of cloth, or perfected
into a breed, and receive the same as a thoroughbred in
only about a dozen years afterward. Be that as it may,
our English brothers in this case have made for usa fine
breed, and deserve much praise, and I for one would
acknowledge the worth, and give the credit where it
belongs. |

“‘'The earlier specimens were, more or less, bronzed

128 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

in the wing-coloring of the cocks, and the females
bronze-gray in the ground-color, breeding more closely
to the Partridge Cochin; but the introduction of Light
Brahma cocks as an occasional cross secured the steel-
gray color, which has become the standard color of
America. These crosses have been so frequent that the
reversion in color is prone to light, and we find English
breeders indulging in the use of Partridge Cochin hens,
occasionally, to retain the distinct barring of the feather
in the females.

“« My taste and knowledge of the breeds lead me to
say that next to the Light Brahmas, among the Asiatics,
the Dack Brahma must take rank in merit; yet I am
compelled to acknowledge that the breed is fourth in
the taste and demand of the public.”

THE COCHINS.

The Cochin breed of fowls was introduced into this
country about the year 1847, and to this was mainly due
the celebrated ‘‘ poultry mania” long to be remembered
by breeders of domestic fowls. Men became almost wild
after Partridge Cochins, and were willing to spend a
small fortune for a trio of fine birds. The neck-hackles
of the hens are bright gold, striped with black, the rest
of the body being light brown, penciled with a darker
shade of the same color. The hackles of the Partridge
Cochin cock are bright-red, striped with black, the back
being dark-red, with a bar of metallic green upon the
wings. ‘The breast and under part of the body are pure
black. Some of the points of merit, as claimed by the
breeders of these fowls, are as follows: they are hardier
than any other breeds, except the Brahmas, and will
thrive under conditions where most others would perish.

(129)

Fig. 63.—GRoUP OF LIGHT BRAHMAS.

ASIATIC BREEDS. 131

. They are of large size, with a very gentle disposition,
and the ease with which the Cochins are kept in confine-
ment makes them favorites with many poultry-raisers.
When full-grown the weight ranges from ten to fifteen
pounds; they are too heavy to fly, and a fence two feet
kigh will confine them. As sitters and mothers the
Lens are not surpassed, and are prolific layers, especially
m winter, when eggs are scarce. ‘The chickens grow
rapidly, and at three months are large enough for eating.

It is true, they have some defects. The flesh is in-
ferior, especially of old birds. The inclination to sit
sometimes interferes with their greatest usefulness. This
tendency is developed by over-feeding. Asa breed the
Cochins are most useful to supply the demands of a fam-
ily for early chickens and a plenty of large, rich eggs.
If the Cochins had dore nothing more than to awaken
a general interest in poultry-breeding, their introduction
wou!d still have been of benefit. :

Besides the Partridge, which may be either of the
single or Pea-comb variety, the principal sub-varieties of
the Cochins are the White, Buff, and Black. With
those who breed the White variety every feather must
be pure, otherwise the fowl is looked upon with disfavor.
The Buff Cochins may be of any shade, but the birds in
a flock must correspond in color.’ With the Blacks, it is
of the utmost importance that every feather should be
solid black. In other respects than plumage, the sey-
eral varieties of Cochins are very similar.

ee OO

THE LANGSHAN FOWLS.

The Langshans are natives of the extreme northern
part of China, where most of the fowls, both wild and
domestic, are black, and where the winters are very

1382 PROFI1S IN POULTRY.

severe. Mr. C. W. Gedney, of Bromley, Kent, Eng:
land, resided for some years in that country, and pro-
fesses to be well acquainted with the habits and character
of these fowls, and we depend upon him for most of the
information we have in regard to them in their native

Fig. 64.—LANGSHAN COCK.

country. They are entirely distinct from the Black
Cochin, and their native home is 1000 miles distant
from Cochin-China, whence the latter birds have been
brought. These birds are erect in carriage, have larger
combs, more feathered tails than the Black Cochins, an-

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(133)

ASIATIC BREEDS. 135

are more active, hardy, and vigorous. A cockerel of
this breed, seven months old, will weigh, if fattened, ten
to twelve pounds; and a pullet of the same age, eight to
nine pounds; the flesh is well-flavored and tender, and
thickly laid upon the breast, the skin is clear white and
transparent, and the bone very lhght and fine. The
legs are of a bright slate color, and pink between the
toes, and the plumage black with a vivid beetle-green
reflection. These birds were first introduced into Eng-
land in 1872 by an officer of the British army, Major
Croad, of Sussex, who received them directly from a
relative living in the northern part of China. Since
then a second importation has been received in England,
and Mr. Gedney states that the breed has been used to
improve the Black Cochins. Since the opening of the
Suez Canal, by which the voyage from China hag been
much shortened, the importation of fowls from that dis-
tant part of the world has been rendered much easier.
Mr. Gedney sums up the merits of these fowls as fol-
lows: Extreme hardiness, rapid growth, great size com-
bined with small bone, exquisitely white skin and flesh
of the same purity of color, full breast, delicacy of flavor,
and possessing none of that dryness so common to most
of the large breeds. As prolific winter layers of large
rich eggs, the Langshan hens will hold their own against
all comers, whilst they lack that intense desire to sit
which is so essentially a characteristic of the Cochin. In
short, he considers that they “are the finest and most
practically useful birds ever brought to England.”

The Langshans were admitted to the American Stand-
ard of Excellence by the American Poultry Association
at the meeting held at Worcester, Mass., 1883.

CHAPTER 27 2
EUROPEAN BREEDS.

DORKINGS.

Speaking of this breed, a well-known authority says:
Looking back into the dim past, to find any record of
any pure-bred fowls is almost useless. But few peculiari-
ties were noted in ancient records; perhaps the Dorking
and Polish fowls are the only ones that can claim any
great antiquity. In ancient paintings hens with crests
are often seen resembling our Polish birds, and from
which the latter are probably descended; and Columella,
an old Roman writer, gives directions for the selecting
of poultry to breed from, ‘‘such as five claws, square
frames,” etc. Such birds have been bred in England for -
centuries, but varying in color; the probability is that
they were imported by the Romans while Britain was a
Roman colony, for they took most of their luxuries along
with them. At any rate, these fowls have been so long
known in England that they are called an English
breed; they have been bred mottled, gray, splashed,
cuckoo or dominique colored, white, and silver-gray, which
is the last fashion in color.

A fine Silver-gray Dorking cock is a well-shaped,
noble bird, of about eight or nine pounds weight, with
fall silver hackle and graceful flowing tail; he certainly
makes a show that few birds can match; his face and
comb are bright-red, beak strongly arched; saddle, back,
and hackle fine silvery white, wing coverts the same;
breast, thighs, and tail black when complying with the
Standard, but the thighs of young birds are nearlv
always a little grayish if the bird is any size, and birag

(136)

EUROPEAN BREEDS. By

over one or two years old with me invariably have a little
white on sickles. I have corresponded with many breed-
ers of this breed, and they invariably tell the same expe-
rience. In “ Lewis Wright’s Illustrated Poultry Book,”

: sa iy
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Fig. 66.—WHITE DORKING FOWLS.

the only portrait of a Silver-gray Dorking cock, which
took cups at Crystal Palace, 1871; Dublin. 1872, and at
all the principal English shows, has a white edge to the
lower half of his sickle tail. feathers. Hon. W. F.

138 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Daniels, N. H., who carried the palm for his celebrated
birds, states that he never had a bird worth breeding
from that did not show white in his sickles at two years
old; such birds are liable to be marked disqualified at any
fair, as sometimes done by judges who never kept and
never knew anything about Dorkings, except from the
Standard. The hen is a finely penciled steel-gray on
back shoulders, and lower back part of body; the shafts
of feathers on back form a fine white line, breast clear
salmon color or light robin-red, shafts of feathers a
lighter shade. The feet and legs of the hens, and also of

Fig. 67.—FOOT OF DORKING FOWL.

vhe cocks, pink or flesh colored, with five distinct toes,
the fifth or upper toe well separated from the others, and
slightly turned up. ‘The neck is of a fine silvery-white
color, with a black stripe down each feather. The dis-
position of this breed is very docile; no breed shows more
intelligence; they are the best of mothers, taking care of
their chicks for a much longer time than most fowls;
they are good layers of fair-sized eggs, and lay well all
through the summer; if not the best of winter layers,
they commence early and keep it up till late in the
season. One great advantage of this breed is, they are

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 139

in their prime when most fowls are too old for use; they
ara long-lived. A hen has been known to bring up two
broods in a season when she was six years old. Theyare
most remarkable as foragers, being very active, industri-
ous workers; if they do not improve your garden, they
will find a good deal of their food on a farm or good run.
As table fowl, their praises have been often sounded.
They are second to none, and their cross with game pro-
duces a table fowl of absolutely supreme merit.

——+$- $i

GAME FOWLS.

While the Asiatic, Leghorns, Hamburgs, Polands, and
a host of other breeds, each have their champion advo-
cates, each claiming for their particular favorites all the
profitable good qualities, there are but few who advocate
the cause of the Game fowl, and really but few who fully
understand the superior qualities of this Royal Bird.
The origin and nationality of the Game fowl have always
been, and yet remain, a mooted question.

The record of Game fowls is as old as the oldest writ-
ten history, wherein we find that the Persians, Greeks,
Romans, and a host of other nations, each had their na-
tive Game fowls.

Games were known to the Britons, and cock-fighting
was carried on in England prior to Cesar’s invasion, and
hundreds of years prior to the Christian era, cock-fight-
ing was an established insititution with the Greeks and
Persians. China, Java, and the entire East Indies each
had their native Game fowls.

Therefore, all theories advanced by naturalists as to the
origin of the Game fowl are wholly speculative.

The Game fowl was regarded as sacred to the gods in
ancient times, and was used in ancient military schools

140 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

for teaching the youth, by practical illustration, conrage
and endurance in battle. ‘They were used as emblems
of ancient nationalities, being stamped on war banners,
coins and shields; and, having withstood the decline of
empires and witnessed the rise and fall of nations, they
yet maintain to the present time their fame for gameness
as of old, and are emphatically the kings of all domestic
fowls.

But not alone for their antiquity and historic glory do
the Game fowls stand at the head of their kind, as they
possess useful qualities in a very high degree, being good
layers of good-sized eggs, and the most devoted of
mothers.

THE DUCK-WINGED GAME.

Of the varieties of Game fowls the Duck-winged is
one of the most beautiful. Although its graceful form
and dignified carriage are exceedingly attractive, its bril-
liantly colored plumage is still more so, and can only be
truly shown by the painter’s art. Its bright and varied
colors are so beautifully blended together that it excites
the admiration of those even who take no delight in breed-
ing poultry, while to the fancier it is one of the first favor-
ites. The face of the Duck-wing Game is a deep crim.
son; the head is covered with small sifvery-white feath-
ers; the hackle is white, slightly tinged with straw-
yellow ; the back is maroon, claret and straw-yellow ;
the saddle is slightly darker than the hackle, with fine
short feathers hiding the points of the wings; the
shoulders are bright brass-yellow from the butts up to
the clear steel bar, and no light streak is admissible ina
well-bred bird ; the shoulder butts are black ; the breast
and tail are black, with a shade of bronze upon the sickle
feathers; the eyes are red, and the legs yeliow. The

Fig. 68.—BLACK-BREASTED RED GAME-COCK.

(141)

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 143

_ weight is from five to six pounds. The hen, when pure

bred, has the head gray; comb and face bright red;
hackle silvery gray, with dark stripes; the breast is
bright salmon-red ; the back and shoulder coverts should
be slaty-gray, free from penciling ; the tail is dark gray,
so dark as to be nearly black; the fluff inside is a steel
gray, and the legs yellow. In breeding Duck-wings for
color, much care and skill is necessary ; for the ordinary
uses of poultry it is not necessary to do more than select
the best birds, feed well, and keep them in the best and
most vigorous health. Unfortunately for game poultry,
their courage and endurance has been put to wrong uses,
and through their enforced connection with the brutal
and cruel sports of the cock-pit, they have in a measure
come to be identified therewith, and are wrongly sup-
posed to be good for nothing but fighting. On the con-
trary, the Game fowl is one of the most, if not the most,
beautiful of our fowls. It is the best table fowl, so far
as regards quality and flavor of flesh. Its eggs are ex-
ceedingly rich, and much desired for pastry or cakes.
The cock is courageous, and will not hesitate to attack
the hawk, and will defeat the intruder in every attempt
to ravage the poultry yard. ‘The hen is an excellent
mother, and although somewhat nervous and excitable
when brooding her chickens, yet with care and quiet,
gentle treatment she may be handled with ease. While
brooding, she is as courageous as the cock, and will de-
fend her chickens from a hawk, and generally with suc-
cess. A farmer whose grain fields, and those of his
neighbors, offer a too tempting foraging ground for these
active fowls, would be wise to choose some of the heavier
bodied breeds ; but where no damage of this kind can
occur, any of the varieties of Game fowls might be chosen
py those who fancy them, and wish for delicious eggs
and flesh.

144 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

GAME FOWLS—A SENSIBLE GROWL.

It is a noticeable fact that the department of Games
in our poultry exhibitions is the great center of attrac-
tion. Game fowls command higher prices than any of
the old varieties, the eggs sell higher, and they are more
extensively advertised in the poultry journals. The
secret of this popularity lies mainly in the use to which
these birds are put. ‘The Game is unquestionably a good
bird for eating, but is no better than some of the less
quarrelsome varieties. ‘They are prolific, but are sur-
passed by other varieties. ‘They are quite handsome,
but this is not what they are bred for. The only thing
in which they excel all other domestic fowls is their
capacity to fight until the last gasp. No doubt many
breed them for their flesh and eggs. They are frequently
crossed with other fowls, but their quarrelsome disposi-
tion does not make them favorites with the poultry men,
who only want Sesh and eggs. They are mostly bred
for the pit, and there is unquestionably an increasing
love of this cruel sport, principally among a certain class
in our cities and villages. Cock fights are common,
held in some places on the sly, in other places quite
openly, and attended by the same rabble that run after
prize fights in the ring, and for the same reason. They
show courage, and draw blood, and offer opportunities
for betting and gambling. Frequently a main is fought,
aid several cocks are pitted against a similar number
upon the other side. It is expected in these contests
that all the cocks upon one side will be killed. The
worst passions are stirred by these brute contests, and
there is the same objection to them that there is to other
forms of gambling. ‘The bull fights of Spain are no
more bloody and cruel. ‘They tend to harden the sensi-
bilities, and so corrupt the morals. All the associations

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 145

are low and degrading. ‘There may be laws against these
contests in some of the States, but they are seldom en-
forced, and do not remedy the evil. Our poultry socie-
ties have some responsibility in fostering the breeding of
these birds. As a matter of fact, we think most of them
would be found obnoxious to the charge of discrimina
ting in their favor, instead of encouraging the more use.
ful and ornamental varieties. With the single exception
of the Asiatic fowls, the largest amount of premiums is
generally offered for Games. The premiums for turkeys,
the most valuable of all our domestic birds, amount to
much less. For geese, still less. Now, if the object of
these societies 1s the promotion of the common weal, the
highest premiums should be offered for the birds that
are most useful, or for those that promise to be such.
The managers should so arrange the list of premiums
as te draw out the birds that will be the most profitable
on the farm and in the poultry yard. No sptcial in-
ducements are needed for the breeding of Game fowls.
That business would take care of itself if the premiums
were aitogether diverted to the most useful classes.

HAMBURGS.

In writing of Hamburgs, an admirer of this favorite
breed says: They have taken their proper place in the
list of popular breeds. All varieties of the Hamburg
family are beautiful, symmetrical, and stylish in car-
riage. ‘They have been much improved in the beauty
and uniformity of plumage since the era of poultry ex-
hibits, but not in productiveness, as that is hardly pos-
sible; for they have long maintained the reputation of
being ‘‘ every-day layers.” Birds of the Hamburg fam-
ily are of only medium size, but their deficiency in size

10

146 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

is more than made up for by their fecundity. Both
sexes exhibit such glossy and elegantly marked plumage
that they are looked upon as special favorites wherever
shown or cultivated, and when well-bred are truly or-
namental, possessing fancy points that render them
pleasing to those who desire to keep pets that will fur-
nish plenty of eggs and also be a gratification to the eye.

Our standard recognizes six varieties of the Hamburg
breed,—the Biack, Silver-penciled, Golden-penciled,
Silver-spangled, Golden-spangled, and White. The

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Fig 69.—SILVER-SPANGLED HAMBURGS.

whole family is remarkably attractive in plumage, capi.
tal appendages, and the graceful curves which mark the
outline of their well-rounded forms. In sprightliness,
carriage, and habits they are much alike. ‘The Black is
a trifle larger and in appearance stouter than any of the
other varieties.

For table use, though small, they are very good; their
flesh is tender, with little offal, having a larger propor-
tion than usual of the dressed weight in flesh, from the
delicate structure of the skeleton, and is fine in quality.

‘STIMOW HSITOd HO ANOVD—'O) 21,7

(147)

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 149

The cocks average about five pounds, and the hens four
pounds. They will always be prime favorites with a
large class of fanciers and village poultry-raisers.

»

THE POLISH FOWL.

There are several varieties of these ornamental fowls,
differing but little except in their plumage. ‘The main
characteristics of each are alike, all being non-sitters, and
are by many called everlasting layers. As aclass, they are
very prolific, and easily raised, feathering out and coming
to maturity early. ‘They are small compared with many
varieties, but when full-grown weigh from ten to twelve
pounds per pair. They are remarkably handsome, and
in the yard or lawn have few superiors in beauty. In
rearing them tastes differ; some prefer the White-crested
Black, others the White and Spangled varieties. They
are distinguished by a crest crowning the head, which
givesthem the appearance of a field-marshal in plumes,
though in illustrations this feature is somewhat over-
drawn. ‘They are especially adapted to city residences,
the lawn, and small inclosures, and extremely domestic
in their habits. They seem fond of attention, and become
remarkably tame and fond of the society of their keeper;
are a hardy breed to raise, but sensitive tocold and wet;
require warm, dry quarters, their heavy topknots hang-
ing so far over their eyes as to interfere with their sight.
They lay a large white egg of oblong shape, very creamy
and rich, and for culinary uses is among the best quality.
But the peculiar merit consists in their tame and quiet
dispositions and fondness of attention, their extremely
ornamental appearance on the lawn, graceful carriage,
and the glossy and metallic lustre of their plumage.
They are quite liable to pick each other’s crests, and

150 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

while in this condition render the top of the head bare
and disfigured. Their coops shou’ d be kept clean, and
feed supplied them regularly, as t!.ey are poor foragers,
and little inclined to scratch and wander. Never sitting,
they must be raised by other hens; and when first
hatched a brood of the White-crested Black look like a
line of diminutive grenadiers with white caps. Several
gentlemen have turned special attention to improving
this family and restoring them to their original purity,
and by careful breeding are producing specimens that
command the admiration of all. For many reasons we
regard the Black and White Polish as the most fascina-
ting and desirable breed of fowls for the young amateur
to handle, always observing our standing admonition
with this as with all other varieties, to breed but one
strain, and that as nearly perfect as possible. If your taste
fixes upon the White-crested Black, take that and breed
for beauty; or upon the White or Golden, give that your
best care. Whichever variety you select, give that your
special culture. ‘There is no variety that so quickly de-
velops the error of a cross and disfigurement of a mix-
ture as either variety of Polands, and when carefully
and purely bred we know of none giving more pleasure
and satisfaction to the breeder, or that can approach
them in beauty as ornamental appendages to the yards
and lawns of a city or suburban residence, and winning
the attention and praise of our most prominent fanciers
of pets, while as egg-producers they are not easily ex-
celled.

WHITE-CRESTED WHITE POLISH FOWLS.

The origin of crested fowls is somewhat obscure.
Cuvier and Buffon mention them, but are unable to fix
upon their original source. It is supposed that they ~

i
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Fig. 71.—WHITE-CRESTED BLACK POLISH FOWLS. ;

151

‘pay

Bia nes

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 153

were first described by an Italian author, about 260 years
ago, in whose treatise rough wood-cuts of some crested
fowls were given as ‘‘ Paduan Fowls.” Paduan was an
Italian city, and these crested fowls were, therefore,
Italian. Buffon refers to the Paduan fowls, and supposed
them to have been descended from Asiatic stock ; he
also described a variety with white body and black crest,
which has long been extinct, although breeders have
made many efforts to restore it. The vareties of the
Polish fowls now known are the White-crested White,
the White-crested Black, the Golden, and the Silver-
spangled, with some bearded varieties. Of these the
most beautiful is, perhaps, the first mentioned. The
Polish fowls are profuse layers, non-sitters, delicate table
fowls, of handsome appearance ; they possess an oddity
in their crests, which makes them attractive to the fancier
and the amateur. ‘They are contented in confinement,
and bear close quarters very well; are easily kept within
bounds and, becoming readily attached to their owners,
make pleasing pets. When young, they are unusually
elegant with their full crests, gracefully shaped little
_ bodies, and tame disposition. On the whole, there is
hardly any other breed which would give more satisfac-
tory results in every way, where but one is kept, than |
this. For ornament, the pure white breeds have a de-
cided advantage over the colored ones, because they show
so conspicuously upon a green lawn or a field. The
White Leghorn is very popular on this account, as well
as for its prolific egg-producing ; but the White Polish
has an advantage over the graceful Leghorn in the pos-
session of a crest, a heavier body, and better flesh, as
well as being equally valuable as an egg-producer. For
ornament, therefore, as well as for use, the White Polish
should be popular fowls.

154 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

THE BLACK SPANISH FOWL.

Doubtless there exists no breed of thoroughbred fowls
in any country, except the Game, which can lay claim to
priority of origin or to such an unbroken line of pure
lineage as the Black Spanish. Nearly two thousand
years ago Columella wrote about them; they were then
indigenous to Spain, and not generally known in the
Roman Empire. Faint traces of their origin to the
Pheenician colony of Carthage, through the doubtful
media of Celtic poetry, are not sufficiently reliable of
themselves to substantiate the claim.

The Black Spanish is possibly the fourth in the order
of Galline, or, in other words, the fourth distinct variety
of the Gallus bankiva. Time has effected but little
change in them during those years of close breeding.
The same vital element, the same stamina, and the same
power of reproducing their like in plumage, contour,
symmetry, carriage, and facial markings are as character-
\stic of the breed to-day as they were of them in past cen-
turies. Some writers assert several varieties of the Black
Spanish, as the Minorca, Red-faced, Black, the White,
the Blue, Andalusian, and the Gray or Mottled Ancona.
Although each of these varieties was produced by the
amalgamation of the Black Spanish with other provin-
cial breeds, yet, strictly speaking, each is definitely classed
by the best-informed Spanish breeders as distinct varie-
ties, inasmuch as they belong to the Mediterranean
islands and provinces of Spain. ‘Their resemblance to
the Spanish is indeed close. Affinity no doubt exists;
but nowadays, when skillful discriminations, careful
selections, and thorough breeding produce those nice
and fine points not found in the original congenitors,
the progeny in time assumes distinctive features, p!um-
age, and peculiar characteristics, soas to be considered a

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 155

distinct variety of breed. The white face on the
Spanish is purely Castilian, and it 1s a mooted question
whether this feature is natural or was produced by years
of study and skillful cultivation.

‘

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Fig. 72.—WHITE-FACED BLACK SPANISH COCK.

The feathering of the Spanish is close and hard. The
metallic lustre which tips the hackle, back, and wings

contrasts beautifully with the white face, bright-red comb
and wattles.

156 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

The carriage of the cock shouid combine stateliness,
alertness, and gracefulness; he should be proud and carry
his breast full and projecting; his color should be jet-black;
white or partially white feathers is a serious fault; the
comb, single and extending from the fore part of the nos-
trils in an arched form. ‘lhe white face is the most im-
portant feature. It should be pure white, rising well over
the eyeand extending to the back of the head, cevering
the deep-sided cheeks, and jointing the long and well-
rounded white ear-lobes and thin wattles.

The Black Spanish are great layers; nonesurpass them
in beauty, nor excel them in size and quantity of eggs.
Our northern winters are too severe for them; yet they
seem to do well, if we judge by the grand display of our
poultry exhibitions. They require great care. during
chickenhood; cold rains, damp houses and runs, and close
confinement are positive seeds of mortality. They love to
roam over the ample grounds of the breeder’s home-
stead, where they can bask in sunshine and display their
unique and ornamental facial markings.

WHITE AND BROWN LEGHORNS.

The Leghorns have been widely known in this coun-
try for the last twenty years. They have been growing
in public favor every year, until they now stand in the
first rank of pure-bred poultry. They did not spring up
in a few years to their present standing and popularity,
but with steady strides have gained hosts of admirers
among both veteran and amateur fowl-breeders for their
remarkable precocity and productiveness.

Without doubt, we have no variety of domestic fowls
among the improved breeds at present cultivated in this
country that will during the year produce a larger num-

Fig

o

73

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—WHITE LEGHORNS

(157)

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EUROPEAN BREEDS. 159

ber of eggs on the average than the Leghorn. The lay-
ing of eggs is their great forte; and if they be properly
cared for and fed, they will lay well through cold
weather, the hens being powerful machines for convert-
ing food into eggs.

The Leghorns, on a good range, can pick up the greater
part of their own living. ‘They are the most active and
industrious foragers known. But if one is obliged to
confine them to a small yard, clip their wing primaries
to keep them within bounds, and you will be surprised
to see how they will scratch and keep busy day after
day.

It is true there is some trouble experienced in winter-
ing Leghorns successfully in our frigid climate; so that
they will appear at our annual shows and come out in
spring with their combs and pendants unscathed by
Jack Frost. But, as it often has been said by our lead-
ing fanciers of this and other high-combed varieties,
they should be kept in quarters where there is no dan-
ger of freezing; and no poultryman who values his fowls
should allow them in winter to occupy a place that is
not warm and comfortable.

From the time Leghorns leave the shell they grow
rapidly, are hardy, active, strong, and healthy, mature
early, and are comparatively free from disease. During
moulting, when other breeds succumb to the drain on
the system by shedding and putting on their coat of
feathers, they take on their new plumage quickly, and
show little signs of weakness or debility.

They are a proud, sprightly, and handsome variety of
fowls. They are singularly precocious, and it is quite
common to see the pullets developed and doing theiz
duty as layers before they have attained the age of five
months; and the cockerels—such little sceamps—making
love before they are four months old.

160 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

The general objection to the Whites is the difficulty
in keeping the plumage unsoiled. Where, however, they
vecelve proper care there is little trouble.

BROWN LEGHORN.

The Leghorns have a high reputation as layers. Of
these Italian fowls, the brown variety has recently be-
come very popular. Said to have been introduced by
Mr. F. J. Kinney, of Massachusetts, who bought the
first trio that was imported, in 1853, from on board a
ship in Boston harkor. Since then Mr. Kinney has
made several importations from Leghorn, in Italy. The
character of these birds is of the very best. They are
yellow skinned, and excellent table fowls, are extremely
yardy, and enormous layers. Hens have laid on the
wverage 240 eggs in the year in some flocks. Pullets
often begin to lay before they are five months old, and
continue laying during the whole winter. ‘They are gay
plumaged birds, and have become popular amongst fan-
ciers. ‘The Brown Leghorns are described as having the
comb of the Black Spanish fowl, with its head and body,
and the plumage or color of the Black-red Game. The
Brown Leghorn cock is black-breasted, with hackles of
orange-red, striped with black ; the ear-lobes are white.
The hen is salmon-color on the breast, with the rest of
the plumage brown, finely penciled with dark mark-
ings. ‘They thrive fairly wellin confinement. A promi-
nent English poultry fancier is of the decided opinion
that this breed is the best.of all our ‘‘ American” breeds,
when size and product of eggs are taken into considera-
tion. The Leghorns are all called in England American
breeds, because American fanciers first developed them
as pure breeds, and, so to speak, ‘‘ brought them out.”

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 161

They are non-sitters, which isa great advantage whel
eggs are the product mainly desired. ‘There is scarcely
any stock of the farm which is so poorly managed as the
poultry, yet there is none that may be more productive.

Fig. 74.—BROWN LEGHORNS.

A yield of two or three dozen eggs and a brood of half
a dozen chickens is generally considered a fair season’s
production for a hen.. Ihis is the censequence of keep-
ing poor stock, or neglecting that which is better, and
capable of doing better with proper treatment. Poultry

162 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

may be improved by careful breeding as well as a pig or
acow. An infusion of new blood should be procured
every year or two, and a bird of undoubted excellence
-should be bought.

THE FRENCH BREEDS—HOUDANS AND CREVECQURS.

if profit is the chief end of poultry-keeping, and this
is certainly the purpose for which farmers and those who
raise poultry for the market, :s well as those who com-
pete for prizes at the poultry shows, areall in pursuit of,
then the French breeds of fowls are worthy of high con-
sideration. There is no other country in the world
where poultry is so popular a product in the market, or
so frequent a dish upon the tables, as in France, and ¢
breed that is in favor there must possess positive merit.
In addition to the vast number of eggs which are con:
sumed in every possible shape in cookery, and in various
arts, millions of dollars’ worth are exported from France
every year; and the poulet, variously presented, is not
only a very conspicuous item on the bills of fare, but its
delicacy and succulence entitle it to the prominence it
enjoys. ‘That it is acceptable in France should be to a
breed a passport to popular favor everywhere. Yet the
French fowls are not nearly so popular in America as
they deserve to be. The Houdans and the Crevecceurs
are both prolific egg-producers, grow rapidly, and pos-
sess white and juicy flesh. Yet we have admired these
fowls in the yards of other people, and have listened
favorably to frequent praise of their profit and their
beauty. The Houdan is doubtless a very handsome and
attractive bird, and a flock of them, well bred and well
cared for, is very showy in the yard or the field They
are square and massive about the body, with short legs,
p spirited or even a fierce carriage, on account of their

“SIMOK HONTUT FO dnoup—'Gy *Siiy

(163)

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 165

peculiar crest, beard, and muffling, and the lively mark-
ings of their plumage, which, when perfect, is of a
mixed ‘‘ pebbly” black-and-white. They have the fifth
toe,—a useless, objectionable member, which they inherit
from the Dorking strain in their ancestry, although
along with it they have the fine-flavored flesh and plump
breast of that race. Their legs are gray and their bones
remarkably hight. ‘They are egg-producers rather than
breeders; and if properly fed, the hens will lay on with-
out stopping to ‘‘ sit.” They will thrive in confinement,
when properly kept, as well as when roaming at large;
and when allowed to range, exercise the liberty now and
then with greater freedom than is convenient upon the
farm. The standard of excellence of the poultry-fan-
ciers for the Houdan is subject to some variation as to
minor points, such as the shape of the comb; the fifth
toe, however, 1s insisted upon; the feathering should be
of black and white, evenly mixed, and not patchy; the
saddle of the cock is tipped with straw yellow; the crest
is of black and white feathers, evenly mixed, and thrown
back so as to show the comb, which is double, evenly
toothed upon each side, and with both sides alike in
shape; the hackle is black and white, the beard and
muffle almost hide the face, and the wattles are longand
evenly rounded at the ends. The hen is square-bodied,
and low-framed, with plumage lke that of the cock;
the crest is full and round and not loose and straggling
or shaggy. The fifth claw is large and turned upwards,
as with the cock. If good birds are procured to start
with, they should breed very true to the marks; but if
long closely bred, they will in time become mixed in ap-
pearance.

The Crevecceur, like the Houdan, is named from the
village in France in the neighborhood of which it has —
long been largely bred for market. These birds are re-
markably stately and handsome, although somber in

166 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

color, except in the sunlight, when the golden-green re-
flections from the plumage make them very brilliant; but
this peculiarity is only brought out in a favorable light.
They are much more rarely seen than the Houdans, al-
though as producers of eggs, and for non-sitting as well
as for early maturity, and whiteness and sweetness of
flesh, they surpass these. They are not winter layers,
which isan objection; but when the cock iscrossed upon
Brahma hens, the eggs produce table birds of heavy
weight, excellent quality, and in‘time for early market-
ing. They suffer nothing from confinement, and a
dozen can be easily kept in a yard twenty feet square.
They are very tame and friendly when petted. ‘They
excel as table birds, notwithstanding their black legs,
which may be objected to by the marketmen or the
cooks; this feature has no ill effect upon the color, flavor,
or tenderness of the flesh, which is very white and of de-
licious flavor. Young birds will fatten when three months
old, and have been made to weigh four pounds at that age,
and at six months, with two weeks’ fattening, have weighed
seven pounds. ‘The Crevecceur cock should be a heavy,
compact bird, mounted upon short, thick legs; the thighs,
being well feathered, tend to give the birds a heavier.
and more solid build. The back is broad and flat, giv-
ing a robustness to the figure, and slopes but slightly
towards the tail, which is carried high. The general
carriage is dignified, their sedateness being somewhat
heightened by their somber coloring. ‘The comb is two-
horned or ‘‘antlered,” and the crest is formed of lancet-
shaped feathers, which fall backwards and do not
straggle wildly in all directions, as in the Houdan The
chicks are hardy when properly cared for, but early
chicks of this breed are rare, on account of the late habits
of the hen. The breast is full; the hackle is long and
sweeps gracefully down the neck; the beard and muffle
are full and low on the throat, and the plumage, as pre-

EUROPEAN BREEDS. 167%

viously described, when perfect, is of a solid black, with
greenish and sometimes brilliant reflections. The hen
is similar in color and special points to the cock; her
body is massive, and her legs strong to match her stout
body. Her plumage is perfectly black, the crest is
large, and the beard full, and the comb, which is horned,
is much hidden in the crest.

As these birds become aged a few stray white feathers
will appear in the crest, which, however, should be an
objection in young birds. When but one breed is kept,
the Houdan would be preferable to the Creveccur, on
account of its more lively color; but when cross-bred
birds are not objected to, afew of the latter, with their
remarkably beautiful color whenin a bright light, their
large size and handsome carriage, their desirable table
qualities, and the habit of the hen to lay when others
are broody, would make a very desirable addition to a
flock of Brahmas or Cochins.

OCH ALP i ke WV Le
AMERICAN BREEDS

PLYMOUTH ROCKS.

The breed known as the Plymouth Rock is generally
acknowledged the best for useful purposes that has ever
been bred in this country, and as especially adapted to
our American climate, markets, and uses. As fowls for
the farmer and raiser of market poultry, they are su-
perior to other birds in many respects. They fill the
requirements of the farm, while maintaining their purity
asa breed. ‘They are good layers, sitters, and mothers.
They are excellent foragers, and, being at the same time
under easy control, will bear close confinement without
injury. They have the desirable characteristic of being
self-reliant when roaming at will and dependent upon
their own exertions, and contented and happy when re-
strained in close quarters.

For general purposes we know of no better fowl.
They are hardy, and easily raised, and for a breed that is
so large they are wonderfully active and industrious, quick
and sprightly in their movements. With a good yard
of Plymouth Rocks, the farmer or market-poultry raiser
has a breed that fills all requirements; the farmer’s ©
object being not so much to gratify taste or a love of
the beautiful and ornamental, as to keep fowls that will
give a good supply of eggs through a great part of the
year, and furnish in the fall and winter large-sized, com-
pact birds, possessing a presentable color for the table.

The Plymouth Rocks were first brought to notice
when the Brahmas and Cochins were leading the fashion,
and did not attract particular attention; but on the score

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AMERICAN BREEDS. ea

of their merits alone they have worked their way up,
and earned for themselves a lasting reputation for gen-
eral utility.

This breed is deservedly becoming very popular among
those persons who keep fowls for profit. First among
the good qualities of a fowl, issize. ‘This the Plymouth
Rocks have in an unusual degree. ‘There are many ex-
cellent breeds of poultry which are all that can be de-
sired except as to size, and the lack of this is fatal to
their popularity; for, after all, profit is the chief object
with most people in choosing a kind of fowl to keep.
Hardiness of constitution and vigor, pleasing form,
handsome and attractive plumage, and prolific produc-
tion of eggs are all very desirable qualities in fowls, and
these all belong to the breed. ‘he future of the Ply-
mouth Rocks will depend greatly upon the care or fortun-
ate success with which theyare bred. Difference of taste
leads breeders to favor different styles, and thus ‘‘ strains”
are originated. If these styles are made to depart too
much from a rigid standard, there is danger that an im-
portant and essential pomt may be sacrificed for some
minor fancy. ‘To prevent this, and to induce or enforce
care and consistency in breeding, it would be well that
a very close adherence to the standard be insisted upon
in all exhibitions, and that a very rigid one be adopted.
In the case of the birds here represented, they come fully
up to the accepted standard of excellence of American
breeders, and meet it in every respect. The points re-
quired are: The breast to be ‘‘ broad, deep, and full,”
and the body to be ‘‘ large, square, and compact.” The
form of-these birds is therefore nearly perfect, and if
breeders of the Plymouth Rocks vie with each other in
taking advantage of favorable accidents in breeding, and
in fixing them upon their strains, or in using care in
selecting birds for breeding, as any skillful breeder may
readily do, the future history of this breed will be a very

172 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

gratifying one. Among some of seventy breeds recog-
nized in the American standand of excellence, there are
only three of American origin, viz., the old-fashioned
_ Dominique, the Plymouth Rocks, and the Wyandottes.
After some years of careful breeding the Plymouth Rock
has been brought to such a condition of merit, that it is
now one of the most popular breeds, and promises to be
one of the most suitable for farmers and attractive to
amateurs.

AMERICAN DOMINIQUES.

This old-fashioned breed is said to have been brought
over by the early Puritans, and wherever bred in purity
is acknowledged to be one of the best, hardiest, and
most beautiful of all domestic fowls; and as there has
certainly been no importation of any fowls of this breed
into this country for a century, they have come to be re-
garded as strictly an’ American variety.

They are without doubt the oldest of the distinctive
American breeds, being mentioned in the earliest poultry
books as an indigenous and valued variety. In the fa-
rore for fancy breeds of fowls, the older sorts are some-
times wellnigh forgotten; yet it is highiy probable
that the American Dominiques possess as many good
qualities as any of the newer breeds. If they do not
reach the heavy weight of some of the latter breeds, they _
have great merit, and none give better satifaction to the
farmer than this old American breed of Dominiques.

They should weigh from six to eight pounds when
matured. )

The Dominiques are excellent layers, very hardy, un-
exceptionable as mothers, yet are not given to excessive
incubation, and are good for the table. They grow both
fat and feathers quickly, while their plain ‘‘ home-spun”

AMERICAN BREEDS. 173

suits make them very suitable for countless localities
where larger and more valuable-looking fowls would be
liable to be stolen. The merits of this breed will recom-
mend it to persons residing in the country as well worthy
of promotion in the poultry-yard, whether as producers
of eggs or of meat, or as sitters or nurses.

The color of their plumage may be described as a light
steel-gray ground, with each feather distinctly striped
or barred across with a darker or bluish-gray, the bars
shading off gradually from dark into light. The cock
is a very showy bird, with full saddle and hackle, and
abundant well-curved sickle feathers. The comb should
be a neat ‘‘rose” form; face, wattles, and ear-lobes
should be red; wattles neat, well-rounded, and of me-
dium size; legs bright yellow.

WYANDOTTES.

A breed which for some time was known as the
«American Seabrights” has many admirers, who were
instrumental in having the variety admitted to the
Standard at the meeting of the American Poultry As-
sociation held at Worcester in 1883. At the same time
the birds were given the name of Wyandottes.

Breeders differ in their statements of the origin of this
variety, but it is generally considered to be a cross of the
Brahma and Hamburg breeds. It matters little, how- °
ever, what the history of the fowl is, so long as it pos-
-gesses the desired characteristics. When well-bred, the
Wyandottes are good layers, sitters, and mothers, and
their flesh is of the finest flavor. Their plumage is
white and black, each feather having a white ground
and being heavily laced with black, the tail alone being
solid black. They have a small rose comb, face and

174 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

ear-lobes bright-red, legs free from feathers and of a
rich yellow color. Hens will weigh eight to nine pounds,
and cocks nine to ten pounds, when matured. |
In this breed we have the rose comb like the Ham-
burgs, but not so large. ‘The plumage is black-and-
white-speckled, like the Hamburgs, but darker, with the
dlack tail of the Brahma. ‘The legs are yellow, like the
Brahma, but bare like the Hamburg. Fine specimens
are nearly as large as the Brahma. The effort has been

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Fig. 77.—WYANDOTTE FOWLS.

in this combination to preserve the good qualities and
eliminate the undesirable ones of both parent breeds.
The Plymouth Rock has been a favorite with those who
have wanted a plump, fat chicken of a pound and a half
weight as broilers. The Wyandotte is fully its equal in
this respect. It feathers with its growth, and is plump
at any age, thrifty and hardy in raising, yellow-skinned,
and in all respects an excellent variety for forcing early.
When grown, they are plump in body and of an attract-
ive appearance inthe market, They lay a medium-sized

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AMERICAN BREEDS. LG

ege of dark-buff color. Their laying qualities depend
much on the selections and matings of the parent stock.
In markings the fowls are very handsome, the hen more
so than the cock. In the main, the feathers are white
with a black border, which makes them evenly and
brightly speckled. ‘The hackle is penciled white and
black, and the tail black.

AMERICAN JAVAS.

In writing of our American Javas Mr. Bicknell says:
They have characteristics different from any other va-
riety; they present large size, long bodies, deep full
breast, and their general make-up is just what is required
for a genuine, useful superior table fowl—hardiness and
beauty.

Of the two varieties, Black and Mottled, there is little
difference except in plumage. ‘They have single combs,
feet are yellow, shanks free from feathers, skin yellow;
when served on the table the flesh does not present that
objectionable dark color common to some other breeds
but is equal to the Plymonth Rock in every particular.

w

CHAPTER XVIL
DISEASES OF POULTRY.

Poultry generally suffer from preventible ills. It is
almost useless, and rarely ever worth while, to treat sick
poultry. A chicken is hardly worth the trouble re-
quired to physic it, and nine out of ten die in spite of all
the treatment that can be given them. Poultry are
naturally subject to very few diseases. If kept clean,
not overfed, not cooped up close, kept from foul, pu-
trid food, supphed with clean water regularly, and have
abundant pure air in their roosting-places, they live and
thrive without any trouble, except in rare cases. The
fatal disorders which result from ill-treatment cannot
be cured by medicine. It is too late.. The mischief has
been done when the first symptoms appear, and the best
procedure is generally to kill the diseased fowls and say
the rest by sanitary measures.

DISTEMPER, ROUP, AND CHICKEN-POX.

An article which recently appeared in a poultry jour-
nal is the most practical we have ever seen on these
subjects, and is well worth reprinting. Fowls never per-
spire; the waste of the system is in a large measure car-
ried off in the vapor of the breath, which is far more
rapid than is by many suvposed. The heart of the
fowl beats 150 times per minute, which causes a rapid
respiration, and demands twice the amount of air in pro-
portion to weight. ven the bones of the wing are

(178)

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 179

charged with air, and so much so that the windpipe
severed and tied, and the wing sawn off, it will admit
air enough to sustain life for some time.

Distemper, which seems to be an acclimated disease,
yet if neglected often results in roup, is easily detected
by a puffed face, deep scarlet in color, and in two or three
days discharges from the nostrils appear. In this disease
the membrane of the air-passages, tear-tube and throat
is inflamed; and when so much so as to close the tear-
tube, the discharges become acrid, and roup is the result.
To prevent this, it becomes necessary to check these mu-
cus-discharges. The use of kerosene is a handy and sure
cure. By holding the fowl so it cannot swallow, and
filling the throat with the oil, holding long enough to
have the oil thoroughly saturate the throat, then allow-
ing the same to run out of the mouth, and by washing
the nostrils out, and injecting afew drops into each nasal
passage, the effect is magical; and if attended to during
the first two daysof the distemper, one application gen-
erally proves sufficient. So safe and sure is this remedy
that I have not used any other for the past two years. It
checks at once the unnatural discharges. The breathing ~
of kerosene for the twenty-four hours seems to have a
most marvelous effect, and restoration to health is the
result. By neglect we often have an attack of ‘‘ roup,”
which is apparent in afetid breath, swollen head, and in-
flamed face, a throat and mouth filled with canker. No
matter what the cause that has brought this state of
things to your flock,—be it bad ventilation, filthy quar-
ters, unclean water-vessels, or neglect to remove roupy
specimens till by the taint of the water by drinking in
the same vessel the whole flock is effected, —it is safe, when
a part of the fowlsare so affected, to reason that the en-
tire flock is in a measure poisoned in blood, and means
should be taken to prevent its spreading. If we in such
a case put in the water-vessel bromide of potassium to

180 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

the extent of two grains to each fowl, for three or four
days, the evils of the ravage may be stayed.

But in treating those bad cases described above, if the
patient is so full of canker as to be unable to eat, we
must administer the doses.

At the time of the Portland exhibition, I had sent to
me a patient in the shape of a fine Light Brahma. The
bird did not arrive until I had left for the exhibition;
consequently, it was three days before I could attend to
him. When I retured I found him in the following
deplorable condition: His mouth was as full as it could
possibly be of canker; his head was swollen till both eyes
were closed, and‘face and comb were broken out with
dry canker, or, as some poultrymen eall it, chicken-pox.
By the use of a large syringe, I injected the bird’s crop
full of milk in which four grains of bromide had been
dissolved; I then gargled the mouth and throat with
kerosene in the way described above.

We see many recommendations to remove the canker
by forcible means; this is the very worst thing that can
be done (inhuman and retards the cure). In the case of
the Light Brahma, by gargling the throat three morn-
ings, the fourth morning nearly all the canker slipped
off, leaving the mouth smooth. I administered the milk
and bromide for the four days also.

The head, as I have described, was a swollen, shapeless
mass. I felt that the case was a hopeless one, and, al-
ready -knowing the curative properties of the oil for
canker inthe throat, I bathed the head, face, and throat
with the oil, repeating the operation the second morn--
ing, when I noticed here and there small blisters on the |
throat, and a decided improvement in the looks of my
patient. I then on the fourth morning applied the oil
again, when the swelling subsided, and he opened his
eyes and commenced to eat a little, and from that time
improved rapidly; the blisters of course dried down.

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 181

About a week afterward I was brushing the dry scale
from face and comb, and in the process I lifted entire
the cuticle and feathers from head and neck for three
inches down, which demonstrated the power of the oil
as a counter-irritant, and the necessity of care in its use.
‘These two medicines are all I have used since for distem-
per or roup, and so successful have I been that I think
it safe to say I have not lost five birds by roup in the past
two years.

Chicken-pox—warty blotches of comb and throat—can
be treated with bromide, by giving three grains a day,
and isolating the bird till the spots dry and cleave off,
which will be ina week or ten days. The plan to remove
those caps isa very bad one, and only spreads the disease.
Patience, giving time for the bromide to do its work,
and the shedding of the dry scales, is all that is needed
for a cure.

CHICKEN OR FOWL CHOLERA.

There is nothing more unsatisfactory than a sick
chicken, or more difficult to treat, and we find that the
best writers upon poultry diseases insist much more
upon prevention than upon cures. The term ‘‘chol-
era” is applied to a disease which, though it varies
in different parts of the country, is everywhere accom-
panied by a violent diarrhoea, and is rapidly fatal. In
every such outbreak of disease among fowls, the first
thing to be done is to separate the sick from the well,
and at once give a change of food, which should be of
the most nourishing character, and combined with some
stimulant, such as Cayenne pepper, or a tonic, like
iron. Modern writers upon poultry diseases are greatly
in favor of iron in some form as a tonic. The old
method of putting rusty nails in the drinking-water had

182 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

good sense at the bottom of it, but a more active rorm
of iron is desirable. The English poultrymen are much
in favor of ‘‘ Douglas’s Mixture.” This is made by put-
ting eight ounces of sulphate of iron (also called cop-
peras, or green vitriol) into a jug (never use a metallic
vessel) with two gallons of water, and adding one ounce
of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol). ‘This is to be put
into the drinking-water in the proportion of a tea-spoon-
ful toa pint, and is found to be a most useful tonic
whenever such is needed. So soon as the disease breaks
out among the poultry, this should be given to the well
to enable them to resist it, together with more nutri-
tious and easily digestible food.

One writer on the subject states that he made a satu-
rated solution of alum, and whenever a bird was at-
tacked, gave it two or three tea-spoonfuls, repeating the
dose the next day. He mixed their feed, Indian meal,
with alum-water for a week. Since adopting this he
has lost no fowls. Another writes that in each day’s
feed of cookea Indian meal, for a dozen fowls, he added
a table-spoonful of Cayenne pepper, gunpowder, and

turpentine, feeding this every other day for a week. —

From what we have heard of chicken-cholera, it ap-
pears to be a protest against improper feeding and
housing rather than any well-defined disease. Fowls
are often in poor condition on account of the vermin
they are obliged to support, or they may be in impaired
health from continuous feeding on corn alone. When
in this weakened state, a sudden change in the weather
may induce diarrhea, or a cold, which attacks the flock
so generally that the disease appears to be epidemic.
And being generally and rapidly fatal, it is called ‘ chol-
era,” and the owner of such a flock at once writes us for
a remedy for ‘‘chicken-cholera.”’ A recent letter, from
a friend in Massachusetts, is the type of many others
received of late. This informed us that some of the

-

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 183

fowls would leave the rest of the flock, go off and mope
by themselves, refuse to eat, and, as a general thing,
those so affected soon died. The writer assumed this to
be cholera. Our reply was essentially as follows: Sepa-
rate at once the sick birds from the well. If the poultry-
house has not recently been put in order, remove all the
fowls until it can be fumigated, by burning sulphur,
and then whitewashed in every part of the interior with
lime-wash, to each pailful.of which half a pound of
crude carbolic acid has been added. Mix some lard and
kerosene, and, with a rag, or swab, rub all the roosts.
Throw out all the old straw from the nest-boxes, and
grease with the lard and kerosene the insides of these.
Renew the dust-boxes, using fine road-dust, and mixing
some sulphur with the dust.

——-~on-— E

SCABBY LEGS IN POULTRY.

The unsightly disease which affects the legs of fowls,
causing them to swell and become distorted, is due to a
mite, a small insect which is similar in appearance to
that which causes scab in sheep. It is roundish-oval,
and semi-transparent, about one eight-hundredth of an
inch in length, appearing, when magnified 400 diam-
eters, about half an inch long. If the scales from the
leg of a diseased fowl are beneath the microscope, a
number of these mites may be found between them.
Beneath the scales there are spongy, scabby growths, in
which the eggs and pupez of the mites are to be seen in
great numbers. ‘The pupz are very similar in shape to
the mature mites, out are very much smaller, appearing,
when viewed with the above-mentioned power, about
one tenth of an inch in length. The disease, being of a
similar character to the scab in sheep, or the mange in
dogs and cattle, may be cured by the same treatment.

184 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

We have cured fowls of the disease, before accurately
knowing the cause, by applying to the legs a mixture of
lard with one-twentieth part of carbolic acid. This
should be applied with a stiff brush, such as one of
those sold with bottles of mucilage. A very small paint-
er’s sash-brush would answer the purpose; but some-
thing must be used by which the medicated grease can
be applied thoroughly to the crevices between the scales.
A mixture of equal parts of lard or sweet-oil and kero-
sene will be equally as effective as the carbolic-acid mix-
ture. It is probable that lard, or oil alone, would be
effective, but the kerosene more easily penetrates
between the scales, and the carbolic acid is sure death
to the parasites. The remedy being so simple, it will
be inexcusable if this disagreeable affection is suffered
to remain in a flock; while, however, one fowl is troubled
with it, it will certainly spread, as the mites will
burrow beneath the scales of the other fowls. If pre-
cautions were generally used, the parasite could soon be
exterminated. It should be made a disqualification at
poultry-shows for fowls to be affected with scabby legs
or feet, in any degree whatever, for we know that sev-
eral poultry-yards are not free from this disease; and
whenever affected fowls are sent out, the disease goes

with them.

EGG-EATING FOWLS.

When fowls are confined they will cat their eggs, and
no persuasion but that of the ax will prevent them,
They must be freed from confinement and given their
natural employment of scratching, or they will get into
this mischief.

If the bird is worth the trouble, a nest may be so ar-
ranged that the egg, when laid, vat at once roll out of
sight and reach.

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 185

FEATHER-EATING FOWLS.

The habit of pulling and eating feathers is also com-
mon among fowls confined. It is impossible to cure
the fault when once acquired, and it is best to kill the
fowls for table use at first sight, as they quickly teach
others to do the same. The cause is doubtless a need or
appetite for something contained in the feathers. A
mixture of dried flesh and bone, specially prepared for
poultry, with a small quantity of sulphur, will act as a
preventive. Bits of fresh lean meat, or scraps, or fine-
powdered fresh bones, will answer.

Another remedy is to give them a skeep’s pluck, or
liver, to pick at, hanging it up within reach, and to
give them wheat scattered in the earth or litter of their
houses. This will give them food and work to occupy
their time.

So

DED ey lees

Poultry are sometimes troubled with a disease known
as ‘“‘pip.” This is inflammation of the tongue and
mouth, with the growth of a horny scale on the point
of the tongue, which prevents the fowls from feeding.
Give each fowl a pinch of powdered chlorate of potash,
dropping it into the throat and upon the tongue, and
remove the scale with the point of a penknife.

KE

GAPES.

Gapes is the result of parasitic worms in the wind-
pipe. The only cure is to dislodge them. This is
sometimes successfully done by putting the chicks in a
box, covering the top with a piece of muslin, and dust-

186 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

ing fine lime through the cloth. The chicks breathe
the lime, and as it comes in contact with the worms,
these let go of the membranes, and are dislodged by the
coughing and sneezing of the chicks. To prevent
gapes, the chicks should not be kept on ground where
fowls have previously been. ‘This may be done either
by spading old ground deeply each year, or providing a
different locality for the poultry-yard.

=

EGG-BOUND FOWLS.

It is not at all uncommon for hens, especially old and
infirm ones, to become egg-bound. The eggs without
shells collect in the egg-passage, and form a mass of
hard, cheesy matter, which in time causes the abdomen
to swell, and finally kills the fowl. In the early stages
of this trouble the remedy is to inject some linseed-oil
into the passage, and, by dilating it with the fingers,
remove the collected matter. The trouble is generally
from over-feeding with stimulating food.

—————

LOSS OF FEATIIERS.

Poultry will frequently drop their feathers when
over-fed upon corn, buckwheat, or other heating food.
The remedy is to feed only chopped cabbage or turnips,
or turn them into a grass-field for a few days. <A few
pills of castile-soap, or half a tea-spoonful of castor-oil,
will be of benefit.

—— «&>—_—

BUMBLE-FOOT.

This is usually caused by a bruise or sliver; inflam-
mation sets in, and pus forms under the skin and be:

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 187

comes condensed into hard, cheesy matter. When dis-
covered, while the pus is in liquid form, if the skin be
opened with a knife, the pus-cavity well syringed out
with carbolic acid and water, the place kept open by
poulticing for a day or two, it heals up. The same
trouble sometimes attacks the shank; in such a case
open the sack at the bottom and top, and syringe the
cavity from the top to the bottom a couple of times;
then use strong liniment on the shank, and it will all
heal up. When the case is of so long standing that the
pus becomes hard and cheesy, the only way is to lay the
whole thing open, making an opening large enough to
press the core out; then poultice and use the carbolic
acid and water baths, finally winding up with a strong
liniment.

DEFENSE AGAINST DISEASE.

If cared for, and they have clean, wholesome quarters
and not crowded, poultry will always be healthy. If a
fowl merely acts a little ‘‘ cranky,” do not imagine that
it is sick, and commence stuffing it with drugs; simply
remove it to a pen some distance from the flock, and let
it alone a fewdays. If it proves to be very sick, chop off
its head and burnit. For cholera, a strong solution of
hyposulphite of soda, given three times a day, in tea-
spoonful doses, is probacly the best remedy we have.
For gapes, dip a feather in turpentine, and insert it
into the windpipe. One application will generally cure;
two are sometimes necessary. Dip scaly legs in kero-
sene two or three times. A little sulphur mixed with
the food once a week in winter prevents packing of the
crop and irregularities of the bowels, caused by over-
cating and the constant production of eggs. Gravel and

188 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

coarse Sand are necessary for the digestion of food.
Crushed bones, old plaster, lime, etc., are necessary for
the formation of egg-shells. Cayenne pepper in small
quantities, mixed with the food occasionally during the
winter, promotes egg-laying.

CHAPTER XVIII.
PARASITES UPON POULTRY.

It is very common to speak of ‘‘ Hen-lice” as if there
were but one kind of insect parasite upon our fowls.
The fact is that there are at least five species of lice
which, with several mites, ticks, and kindred creatures,
bring up the number of poultry pests: to a dozen or
more. From the day the chick leaves the egg, to that
on which it is prepared for market, it is subject to the
attacks of one or more of these
parasites. That they interfere
with the comfort, and conse-
quently the thrift of the birds,
is evident, and to be a successful
poultry-raiser one should know
thoroughly the habits of these
poultry enemies and the methods
of getting rid of them. ‘That
some are wonderfully prolific is
shown by feathers sent us by a
friend in New Hampshire, who
writes: ‘‘They have something
on the base, and about every pig 10 page's? BASE OF
feather in the ‘fluff’? is hke CELEEES
these.” (See Fig. 79.) The engraving, of the natu-
ral size, gives the appearance of the feathers. A
magnifier showed the ‘‘something on the base” to be
a dense mass of the eggs of a parasite, and it 1s safe to
say that there were several hundreds in each cluster. A
portion of the eggs had hatched, and we do not wonder
that our friend wrote that the ‘‘ cockerel is very lousy.”
Some of the creatures live only upon the feathers of the

(189)

190 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

bird, while others are provided with suckers by which to
draw the blood. Where the fowls are in good health,
and have free use of the dust bath, they keep the para-
sites from excessive increase. In winter there should
always be a box of fine earth for dusting kept where
no water can reach it. Old nest-boxes should be treated
to a bath of scalding lye before they are again used.

To get rid of fleas, the chicken-house should be
thoroughly whitewashed—not half done—with hot lime-
wash. ‘The floor should be well sprinkled with a solution
of carbolic acid, and the rocsts thoroughly greased with
a mixture of one pound of lard, one pint of raw linseed
oil, a quarter of a pint of kerosene, and a quarter of a
pound of sulphur.

When kerosene oil is placed on the fowls themselves,
it should be used sparingly; properly applied, it is the
best known remedy for lice, but to use it recklessly is
dangerous. )

OE

‘SoHE ” HEN LOUSE.

Unfortunately for the fowls, it is impossible to de-
seribe ‘‘ the” Hen Louse, for there are so many of them.
Here is a portrait, Fig. 80, of one of the easiest to
find, as it is one of the largest, being nearly = inch
iong. Unless special care is taken, little chicks, when
they are first hatched, are sadly afflicted; and the
feathers on the head are all alive with them. Not only
common fowls, but all other domestic birds, including
the delicate pets, such as the canary, and the wild birds
from the largest to the smallest, are infested by parasites
—as animals and plants that live upon other animals and
plants are called. Vermin is the pest of poultry, and
when chicken-houses get thoroughly infested, it is not
an easy matter to cleanse them. ~If the house is washed

PARASITES UPON POULTRY. 191

with a hot-lime wash, and the roosts are rubbed witha
mixture of kerosene oil and lard, the lice will be made un-
comfortable, and if this treatment is repeated a few
times, the house and also the fowls will be quite free from
vermin. If the house is, as all poultry houses should be,
detached from barns and other buildings, it may be
fumigated. Shut it up tight and close every opening;
then place a pan of live coals on the ground (or if it
must be on a wooden floor, put downa few shovelfuls of
earth, or cold ashes to hold the pan). Throw on a
handful of lumps of brimstone, and get out quickly,
closing the door tightly. If the work has been done
thoroughly, no lice can be found at the
end of a few hours. ‘The white-wash-
ing, etc., may then be done.

In regard to the use of kerosene, it is
not more effective perhaps than some
other remedies, but is applied more
easily than lard, tobacco, sulphur, or
whitewash. We apply it to the perches
in the hennery from the common
lamp-filler. Turn a very small stream _

Fig. 80.—LARGE PALE

from the spout, and move the can HEN-LOUSE,
rapidly from end to end of the perch.
The oil gets upon the feet and feathers, and is soon dis-
tributed all over the fowl. The lice leave on very short
notice, and the fowls are entirely relieved. It is agreater
safeguard against lice on chickens, when first hatched, to
use the oil in the boxes, before the nest is made for the
sitting hen. It takes but a small quantity, applied tothe
corners of the box, to keep away insects. ‘Take care that
the oil does not touch the eggs. In using a substance
like kerosene about the farm buildings, remember that it
is inflammable, and must be employed with caution,
avoiding every chance of fire.

While the kerosene will destroy vermin by the thou-

IN POULTRY.

PROFITS

192

sands, its effects are not lasting, as it soon evaporates.

To be effectual, it should be applied to the roosts ana

wood-work frequently, say once a week.

The red color of some of the lice is due to the blood
sucked by them from the fowls, as mosquitoes become

red after dining on human blood.

e

CEA PTR Xs X.
RAISING TURKEYS.

It isa joyful morning to the farmer when he discovers
his first brood of young turkeys following the cautions
tread and the low cluck of the mother, as she leaves her
nest. The critical season of turkey-raising is now be.
fore him. Upon his constant care and watchfulness for
vhe next three or four weeks depend his success and his
profits. It isa matter of the first importance that the
care of the young broods should be committed to some
one individual. There is no substitute for personai re-
sponsibility in carrying the young chicks through their
first month. They are very tender, and they have many
enemies from the start. ‘The mother bird has wise in-
stincts to guard her brood against harm in a state of
nature, but in domestication she needs close watching
to guard them against birds and beasts of prey, against
roaming for food too early in the morning, and especial-
ly against storms. If the farmer cannot attend to this
himself, ne should put the care upon some one else who
will look after the broods at short intervals during the
day, and see them properly sheltered for the night.
Women whv have a fondness for the work make the best
guardians of the young broods. Lach little flock should
be counted every night, as they come to their roost, and
if any are missing they should be looked after. They
can be controlled in their wanderings, at first, by fre-
quent feeding. Like all other birds, they follow the feed
very strictly, and will not wander very far from fcod
that is regularly and bountifully supplied.

Why is it that one farmer will raise nearly every tur-

(1983 | 13

194 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

key-chick that comes out of the shell, and do this nine
years out of ten, without much respect to wet or dry
seasons, while another loses from a half to three quarters
with about the same uniformity? We know of men
with whom success is the established rule. They are
very systematic in this, as in all their other business
We visited one of these thrifty farmers, who raised one
hundred and sixty-five turkeys last year from nine hens,
and upon inquiry found that he did about the same thing
every year. We wanted to know just how he managed

Fig. 81.—BRONZE TURKEY.

to secure this uniform result, and found him communi

cative. He insists upon good stock to begin with—th«
best always selected to breed from. ‘Then he places
great rellance upon regular feeding during the fall and
winter, so that the flock becomes very gentle, and the
hens make their nests immediately about the sheds and
barns in places prepared for them. ‘This is a great safe-
guard against foxes, skunks, crows, hawks, and other
creatures that destroy the birds or their eggs. When
the young first. come off the nest, they are confined in

RAISING TURKEYS. 195

pens for a few days until they are strong enough to fly
over a board inclosure one foot high. He feeds fre-
quently with coarse corn-meal and sour milk until four
o’clock in the afternoon. He found in his experience
that he lost a good many chicks from the food hardening
in the crop. There is danger from over-feeding. As
the chicks grow the sour-milk diet is increased, and
during the summer it is kept constantly in a trough for
them. They are exceedingly fond of sour-milk and
buttermilk, and they grow very rapidly upon this diet.
An incidental advantage, and a very important one, he
thinks, is that the young birds are prevented from stray-
ing very far from the house. They return many times
during the day to the buttermiik trough for their favor-
ite food. This, with Indian meal, constitutes their
principal food until midsummer, when insects are more
abundant, and they wander farther from the house.
This method can easily be tried on dairy farms.

TURKEY ROOSTS.

The turkey instinctively goes to roost at nightfall,
and in its native haunts takes to the highest trees, in
order to be safe from numerous enemies. The domes-
ticated bird has the same instinct, and prefers the
roofs of buildings, or the branches of trees, to any perch
under cover. Yet, if taken in hand when the broods
are young, turkeys can be trained to roost in almost any
place not under cover. For safety the roost should be
near the house or barn. If left to roost upon fences or
trees at a distance from the house, they are liable to be
disturbed, or carried off by foxes, or by poultry-thieves.
The roost should besome fifteen or twenty feet from the
ground, Poles of red or white cedar, from three to five

196 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

inches in diameter, are the best material, and these are
the most convenient sizes for the scaffolding upon which
the birds are to roost. ‘The odor of these woods is a
protection against the vermin which sometimes infest
the young birds. The size of the poles for the roosts is
a matter of importance. It is much easier for these
heavy birds to keep their balance upon a large pole than
upon a small one. Then, in the freezing weather of
winter, the feet of the birds are more completely pro-
tected by the feathers. Another advantage of having
the turkeys roost together is the saving of manure. _ If
the ground under the roost is kept covered with muck,
or loam, and occasionally stirred, several loads of a valu-
able fertilizer may be made every season. A roost made
of durable wood, like cedar, will last for a lifetime. It
is but a little trouble to train the young broods to go to
their roost every night. And after the habit has once
been formed they will go to the same roosting-place regu-
larly every night. One.of the secrets of success in tur-
key-raising is in having a secure roosting-place.

ne er

FATTENING TURKEYS.

It is a goodly sight, as the summer days wane, to
see the flocks of turkeys coming home from the
woods and pastures at nightfall with full crops. If the —
farm has not been overstocked with these birds, they
have very largely made their living upon grasshoppers,
crickets, worms, and other small fry. The regular food
they have had has been rather to keep them wonted
than to supply any lack of forage. As the cool nights
come on, and the supply of insects declines, the business
of fattening properly commences. It should be remem-
bered that plump, well-dressed turkeys net only bring a

RAISING TURKEYS. 197

higher price in market, but enhance the reputation of
the producer, and make his market sure for future years.
The turkey is one of the finished products of the farm
and one of the greatest luxuries in the market. The
farmer should do his best in preparing his flock for the
shambles. ‘The main business now is to lay on fat, and
the bird should have, every night and morning, a full
supply of nutritious and fattenimg food. Instinctively
the turkey follows his feed, and if the supply is abun-
dant at the farm-yard he will not stroll far from home.
Boiled potatoes, mashed, and mixed with meal, and fed
moderately warm, is a very excellent feed both to pro-
mote growth and to fatten. If the pigs can be robbed
of a part of their milk, and it be mixed with a part of
the hot potatoes and meal, it will very much tmprove
the dish. It is very desirable to supply the place of in-
sects with some kind of animal food, and butchers’
scraps is one of the cheapest and most desirable forms of
food for poultry. Grain should be given at least oncea
day with the soft and warm feed. Nothing is better
than sound corn. The Northern corn is thought to con-
tain more oil than that of Southern growth. Old corn
should always be used for this purpose. The new corn
keeps them too loose. In feeding, only so much corn
should be thrown out as the birds will eat up clean.
Take a little time to feed them, and study esthetics as
you watch the iridescent hues upon the glossy plumage.
There is nothing more charming upon the farm in the
whole circle of our feathered dependants than a hundred
or two of these richly bronzed turkeys feeding near the
corn-crib. You can afford to enjoy the disappearance
of corn, while the turkeys are increasing in weight.
Dreams of a full wallet at Thanksgiving and Christmas
will not harm you as you look on this interesting sight.

198 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

HABITS OF THE WILD TURKEY.

The males commence wooing as early as February 1p
some of the extreme Southern States; but March is the
opening of the season throughout the country, and
April the month in which it reaches its highest develop-
ment. The males may then be heard calling to the
females from every direction, until the woods ring with
their loud and liquid cries, which are commenced long
ere the sun appears above the horizon, and continued
for hours with the steadiest persistency. As both sexes
roost apart at this period, the hens avoid answering the
gobblers for some time, but they finally become less ob-
durate, and coyly return the call. When the males hear
this, all within hearing respond promptly and vehe-
mently, uttering notes similar to those which the domes-
tic gobblers do when they hear an unusual sound. If the
female answering the call is on the ground, the males fly
to her and parade before her with all the pompous strut-
ting that characterizes the fainily. They spread and
erect their tails, depress their wings with a quivering
motion and trail them along the ground, and draw the
head back on the shoulders, as if to increase their dignity
and importance; then wheel, and march, and swell, and
gobble, as if they were trying to outdo each other in airs
and graces. The female, however, pays little attention
to these ceremonious parades, and demurely looks on while
the rivals for her affection try to outdo one another in
playing the gallant and dandy. When the strutting and
gobbling fail to win her, the candidates for matrimony

challenge each other to mortal combat, and whichever is
successful in the contest walks away with her in the most
nonchalant manner. The easy indifference of the hen as to
which she will follow may not be pleasing to persons im-
bued with romantic feelings, yet she is only obeying a wise

9

RAISING TURKEYS. 201

law of nature, which decrees that only the fittest should
live, and in the lower animal world these are necessarily
chosen for their physical qualities.

The battles between the males are often waged with
such desperate valor that more than one combatant is
sent to join the great majority, as they deliver very heavy
blows at each other’s heads, and do not give up a contest
until they are dead, or so thoroughly exhausted as to be
scarcely able to move.

When one has killed another, he is said sometimes to
caress the dead bird in an apparently affectionate manner,
as if it were very sorry to have been compelled to do such
a deed, but could not help it, owing to the force of cir-
cumstances; yet I have seen the winner in a tournament
in such a rage that it not only killed its rival, but pecked
out its eyes after it was dead. When the victors have
won their brides, they keep together until the latter com
mence laying, and then separate, for the males would
destroy the eggs if they could, and the hens, knowing
this, carefully screen them. ‘The males are often fol.
lowed by more than one hen; but they are not so polvg-
amous as their domestic congeners, as I never heard of
a gobbler having more than two or three females under
his protection. The adult gobblers drive-the young
males away during the erotic season, and will not even
permit them to gobble if they can help it; so that the
latter are obliged to keep by themselves, generally in
parties of from six to ten, unless some of the veterans
are killed, and then they occupy the vacated places, ac-
cording to the order of their prowess.

_ Some aged males may also be found wandering through
the woods in parties of two, three, four or five, but they
seldom mingle with the flocks, owing, apparently, to ap:
proaching old age. They are exceedingly shy and vigilant,
and so wild that they fly immediately from an imaginary
danger created by their own suspicious nature. They

202 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

strut and gobble occasionally, but not near so much as
their younger kindred. Barren hens, which also keep
by themselves, are almost as demonstrative in displaying
their vocal powers, airs, and feathers as the old males,
whereas they are exceedingly coy and unpretentious when
fertile. When the season is over, the males keep by them-
selves in small bachelor parties; but, instead of being ex-
ceedingly noisy as they were in the early part of the
mating period, they become almost silent. Yet they
sometimes strut and gobble on their roosts, though, as
a general rule, they do not, and content themselves with
elevating and lowering the tail feathers and uttering a
puffing sound. They keep at this exercise for hours at
a time on moonlight nights without rising from their
perch, and sometimes continue it until daylight.

When the hen is ready to lay, she scratches out a slight
hollow ina thicket, a cane brake, beside a prostrate tree,
in tall grass or weeds, or in a grain field, and lines it
rudely with grass or leaves, and then deposits her eggs
in it. These, which vary in number from ten to twenty,
are smaller and more elongated than those of the domestic
turkey, and are of a dull cream or a dirty white color,
sprinkled with brownish-red spots. Audubon says that
several hens may lay their eggs in one nest, and hatch
them and raise the broods together. He found three
hens sitting on forty-two eggs in a single nest, and one
was always present to protect them.

If the eggs are not destroyed, only one brood is raised
ina year; but if they are, the female calls loudly for a
male, and when she is rejoined by one, both keep com-
pany until she is ready to commence laying again, when
she deserts him or drives him away. She builds her
nest in the most secluded spot she can find, and covers
it carefully with leaves or grass whenever she leaves it.

RAISING TURKEYS. 203

GENERAL HINTS ABOUT TURKEYS.

The greatly increased attention paid to the turkey
crop in the Eastern States, and in the Southern and
Western States as well, seems to call for a few more
notes. Without a good range it will not pay to raise tur-
keys; they create trouble between neighbors. I have
found that, when confined to a yard, one turkey will re-
quire as much food to bring it to maturity as will make
forty pounds of pork on a well-bred pig. Where they
can have extensive range, they will pick up most of the
food they require until autumn. ‘The young are very
delicate, and the hen must be cooped until they are well
feathered and able to look out for themselves. The same
food recommended for chicks is suitable for turkeys.
Two weeks before marketing, confine them in a small,
clean pen, and feed them al! they will eat, not forgetting
plenty of fresh water and gravel, and they will fatten up
quickly and nicely.

TURKEY-NESTS.

In the wild state the hen seeks the most secluded and
inaccessible spot, where there is protection from birds
and beasts of prey. Security against attack is the main
thing that instinct prompts her to look out for. <A tan-
gled thicket of briers, a sheltering ledge, a hollow
stump, a clump of brush filled with decaying leaves,

suit her fancy. With little preparation she drops her

eggs upon the bare ground in these secluded places.
Domesticated turkeys usually are left to a good deal of
freedom in choosing their nests. Some farmers have
prepared nests, made of loose stones and boards, or old
barrels, placed by the roadside, or near the barn, and

204 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

slightly covered with oid brush. These are often ex-
posed to the attack of weasles and skunks, and other
enemies, besides being unsightly. If there are no pre-
pared nests they will seek the nearest bit of woods, or
patch of brush, or fence-corner, where they can find
- shelter. The whole turkey crop for the year is put in
jeopardy by this want of preparation for the laying and
breeding season. By having a yard devoted to fruit
trees and turkeys, and an open shed with sliding doors,
you have complete control of the birds, their eggs and
their young, during their tender age. The risk is re-
duced to a minimum, and the turkey crop is as sure as
any other raised on the farm. The nests under the
shed should be about three feet square, and arranged
with slats in the front so that the birds may be shut in
or out at pleasure. The common A-shaped hen-coop
on a larger scale, the peak of the gable being about
three feet high, is a very good arrangement. If the
turkeys are fed under the shed for a few weeks before
the laying season, they will take kindly to the nests pre-
pared for them.

EARLY BROODS.

Early broods are very desirable on several accounts,
but there is a good deal of risk in having the chicks
come out before the grass is well started, and there is
settled weather. In the latitude of 40°, and northward, ©
it is quite early enough to have the chicks out by the
middle of May. Birds hatched from the middle of May
until July 1st will have five or six months in which to
grow before Thanksgiving, and that is as soon as they
will be wanted for slaughter or to sell as stock. The
cold storms of April and early May are likely to prove
fatal to the chicks. The laying of the hens is very |

RAISING TURKEYS. 205

much within the control of their owner. and can be
hastened or retarded by more or less feed at his pleas-
ure. Some of our best breeders feed light after the first
of February for the purpose of delaying the laying sea-
son. They do not care to have chicks before the first of
June. Coming out at that date, they feel reasonably
sure of raising the large majority of the hatch. After
the birds have begun to lay, and get used to the nests, it
is well to feed generously to keep up the strengh of the
hen while she is laying, and so prepare her for the sit-
ting season. ‘The number of eggs that a hen will lay
depends a good deal upon the feed. ‘The average is
from fifteen to thirty eggs, while in some cases among
the thoroughbreds they keep on laying all summer with-
out manifesting any desire to sit upon the nest. ‘These
perpetual layers become very much exhausted in the
fall, and it takes them a long time to recover.

—_4+0—-

SETTING THE HEN-TURKEYS.

As turkeys require a good deal of attention while
they are upon their nests, they should be in one yard,
or building, or at least not far distant from one another,
to take up as little time as possible in the frequent
visits. In making the nests, study nature and build
upon the bare earth, lined with leaves or hay, or any con-
venient soft substance; give the eggs room enough, and
yet have the nest deep enough to prevent their rolling
out of the nest. A hen will lay from fifteen to thirty
eggs at a litter, but they cannot always cover the whole
litter. Very large old birds will cover twenty eggs.
Smaller birds will cover from fifteen to eighteen, and
this is about the right average. Jf you have a dozen
turkey-hens in your flock, which is about the right
number for a good range, it will not be difficult to set

206 - PROFITS IN POULTRY.

several birds at once, and these may be arranged in
nests within a few feet of each other. With artificial
or addled eggs you can keep a part of the hens upon
their nests a few days, until three or four are ready.
Then select eggs of as near equal age as possible and
put them under the hens. If the hens, close together,
are not set at the same time, there is danger when the
first begins to hatch that her neighbors will hear the
peep of the first chicks, and become uneasy, and perhaps
forsake their nests. If all in the group of three or four
nests are hatching at the same time, there is no trouble
of this kind. Before putting the eggs into the nest, it
is well to sprinkle a little snuff among the hay to guard
against insects. If any of the eggs get fouled with the
yolk of a broken egg before or after setting, the shells
should be carefully cleaned with tepid water, to secure
their hatching. Two or three turkeys will sometimes
lay in the same nest. ‘This will not do any harm in the
early part of the season, but they should be separated
before setting, and only one bird allowed to the nest.
This may be done by making nests near by and putting
a porcelain or addled egg in each new nest. Turkeys
are not apt to crowd on to an occupied nest when a
vacant one is close by. The group of hens that sit
together, and bring off their young at the same time,
will naturally feed and ramble together, and this will
save a good deal of time in looking after them. ‘The
turkey is a close sitter, and will not leave her nest for
several days at a time. Grain and water should be kept
near the nests.

FEEDING AND RAISING THE CHICKS.

One of the secrets of successful poultry-raising is the
art of feeding properly, not merely at regular inter-
vals, but on the most suitable food, and keeping the

RAISING TURKEYS. 207

chicks growing as rapidly as possible from the very start.
It is very poor economy to stint turkeys, especially
young growing stock; for when once stunted, it takes a
long while to recover, if it does occur at all. For the
first twenty-four hours after the chicks emerge from th*
shell, they should remain under the hen unmolested,
both to dry and gain strength and hardiness. They do
not require any food, as the store nature provides will
last over this time. As the chicks hatch sometimes irreg-
ularly, the older ones can be cared for in the house un-
til the others are ready to be taken away, when the hen
and her brood can be removed to a roomy coop, with a
tight-board bottom and a rain-proof roof. They should
he fed five times daily, but only just what they will eat
up clean. The first food should consist of stale bread
moistened in water or in fresh milk—the milk is decidedly
preferable. Do not wet the food, as very moist or
sloppy food will cause sickness and a high rate of mor-
tality among young, tender birds. If milk can be
spared, give it to them freely in place of water.

The too lavish use of corn-meal has caused more deaths
among young chicks than has cholera among grown
fowls. Until the chicks are half-grown, corn-meal should
be but sparingly fed; but after that time, when judi-
ciously used, is one of the very best and cheapest foods
for fowls and chicks. Nine-tenths of the young turkeys
and guinea-fowls which die when in the ‘‘ downy” state
get their death-blow from corn-meal, as it is a very com-
mon practice (because it is so ‘‘ handy” and suits lazy ‘
people so well) to merely moisten with cold water some
raw corn-meal and then feed it in that way.

Young chicks relish occasional feeds of cracked wheat
and wheat screenings; while rice, well boiled, is not only
greedily eaten by the chicks, but is one of the very best
things chat can be given. It frequently happens that
damaged lots of rice, or low grades of it, can be bought at

208 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

low figures in the cities. As it increases so much in bulk
in cooking, it is not an expensive food for young chicks,
even at the regular retail price, though it would not or-
dinarily pay to feed it to full-grown fowls very liberally
or very frequently. In the absence of worms, bugs, etc.,
‘ during early spring, cheap parts of fresh beef can be well
boiled and shredded up for the little chicks; but care
must be taken not to feed more frequently than once in
two days, and only then in moderation. This feeding
on meat shreds is very beneficial to young turkeys and
guinea chicks when they are ‘‘ shooting” their first quill
feathers, as then they require extra nourishment to re-
pair the drain on immature and weakly bodies.

LOSS OF WEIGHT IN DRESSING TURKEYS.

Farmers frequently have occasion to sell turkeys by
live weight, and wish to know what is the fair relative
price between live and dead weight. In turkeys dressed
for the New York market, where the blood and feathers
only are removed, the loss is very small. For the Hast-
ern markets the head is cut off and the entrails are
taken out. ‘This makes a loss of nearly one-tenth in
the weight. A large gobbler was recently killed weigh-
ing alive 313 lbs. After bleeding and picking he
weighed 293 lbs., a loss of 2 lbs., or about one-fifteenth.
When ready for the spit he weighed 284 lbs.—a loss of
34 lbs., which is very nearly one-tenth of the weight.
Where the market requires the New York style of dress-
ing, and the price is 15 cents a pound, a farmer could
afford to sell at 14 cents live weight, or less, if he
counted the labor of dressing anything. In the other
style of dressing, if the price were 20 cents, he could sell
for 18 cents, or less, live weight, without loss. Farmers

RAISING TURKEYS. 209

who have never tested the loss of weight in dressing
sometimes submit to a decuction of thrce or four cents
a pound from the middlemen, who are interested in
making this large difference. We have no means of
knowing the exact cost of dressing turkeys, but half a
cent a pound would probably be a large estimate. The
prevailing higher price of dressed turkeys in the Kastern
market is not owing simply to the difference in the style
of dressing, though this has something to do with it.
A large portion of the turkeys that go to the Boston and
Providence markets are of extra large size, principally of
the Bronze and Narragansett breeds and their crosses,
raised in Rhode Island and Eastern Connecticut, where
the farmers make it a specialty. Whole flocks of young
birds will dress about 12 Ibs., on the average, at Thanks-
giving, and 14 lbs. or more at Christmas. Young cocks
frequently reach 18 to 20 lbs. dressed during the winter,
and adult cocks 28 to 30 lbs. These birds are prepared
for the market in the nicest style, and are shipped by
the ton for the holidays. They always bring extra
prices.
14

CHAPTER XX.
RAISING GEESE.

With suitable facilities, breeding geese is profitable,
and many a farmer’s wife has secured home comforts
from this source. It is useless to breed geese with too
little room ; they must have their liberty to do well, and
be furnished with large grass runs, as they are great
graziers. ‘Their weakness for fruit, and their ability to
trample down small fruits and vegetables, make them
undesirable where there are fruit and vegetable planta-
tions. They must be kept away from young chicks, or
they will soon destroy them, especially during the hatch-
ing season, when they are unusually cross and combat-
lve.

Choose only those free from all defects, either indi-
vidual or hereditary. It is the rule with good breeders
to keep the same birds for years successively for breed-
ing, as the progeny is usually stronger and healthier
from such stock than from younger ones. ‘The ganders,
however, rapidly depreciate with age, and also early pair
off with single females. In these cases, a young and
vigorous gander is substituted. Itis best to make the
selection for breeding in autumn, just before culling out
for fattening, or selling stock to others. No amount of
persuasion, or tempting high price, should induce the
breeder to part with his best birds; for if he desires to .
steadily improve his flock, no matter whether it is of so-
called common birds or thoroughbreds, he must take
his pick first of the very cream of tne flock.

If geese can be set early, two broods may be obtained
from each female, thus securing large flocks foreach sea-
son’s sales. ‘The later-hatched birds, generally having

(210)

RAISING GEESE, 211

favorable weather, will make good weights by late fall,
especially if given extracare and focd. hese late birds
make excellent eating about Christmas-time. The goose
usually makes her own nest, though it is well to help

her a little. She is a careful and constant mother, but
her love for the water must be restrained until the gos-
lings are a few weeks old, for many dangers, in the form

of musk-rats, snakes, turtles, etc., lurk at the water’s
edge.

21% PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Goslings do not require much extra feed, if they can
get all the fresh and tender grass they want, and unless
this can be supplied, breeding geese is not profitable.
For the first few weeks some food must be given; this
should never be corn-meal, for nine-tenths of the mor-
tality among fledgelings, of the various kinds of domestic
fowls, can readily be traced to feeding corn-meal. Cot-
tage cheese, or dry curds of sour milk in which red pep-
per (Cayenne) has been sprinkled, is a very good food,
and a quantity of fresh onion-tops, chopped up fine, is
relished by them. Stale bread soaked in fresh milk
makes an excellent food for all young birds, and the way
they develop when fed liberally with it will astonish any
one who has not before tried it with his fowls. The
greater part of the management of geese consists in
keeping them (the goslings) free from dampness while
they are still “‘ downy,” guarding them from the attacks
of rats. cats, weasels, and other of their enemies, in ©
housing them well at night, and in giving them a fresh
grass run as often as possible. When they become fully
feathered, they are abundantly able to take care of them-
selves ; many breeders then let the geese find their own
food, which they can readily do on a large farm, until
fattening time, or when the grass begins to get short,
when they are brought up, and liberally and regularly
fed with corn, still being permitted to have their liberty,
until a week or two before they are to be killed, when
they are penned up and fed with all they can eat.

VARIETIES.

In breeding for mere fancy, no doubt the odd or hand-
some kinds, like the white or the brown China, ete.,
would be satisfactory ; but where heavy weights, hardi-

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Goo

Fig. 84. BROWN CHINESE GEESE.

The color of head of the Brown Chinese is brown; knob dark brown or
black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from
the head down tothe body. The body is dark brown, breast gray-
ish brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. The
China is one of the best layers of all breeds, and the quality of
flesh is extra good. Size rather small.

(213)

RAISING GEESE. ° 215

ness, and prolificness are concerned, the Toulouse and
Embden are superior to all other sorts, and mature early,

The common gray goose possesses the markings of its
parent, the wild goose of Kurope and Asia, known in
England as the ‘‘ Gray Lag.” ‘The fine variety known
as the Toulouse has the same colors, except that the dark
plumage is of much richer hues, and, by contrast at least,
the light feathers whiter, while the bill and legs are of a
deep orange color. ‘The Toulouse geese early develop a
deep-hanging fold of skin, pendent, like the keel of a
boat, beneath the body. ‘The evidence that the breed
originated in the vicinity of Toulouse, in France, is
meagre. Nevertheless, we cannot countenance the sug-
gestion that they received their name because their skin
was too loose for them. ‘The first of the variety which
were seen in England came, it is said, from Marseilles,
in the south of France. Those purchased probably came
from Toulouse to Marseilles, for this name is applied to
no distinct variety in France.

Toulouse geese, when not inordinately forced for ex-
hibition, are hardy, early layers, and reasonably prolific,
often raising two broods of goslings a year. The young
early take care of themselves on good pasture, and grow
with astonishing rapidity. It is not well to let them
depend wholly upon grass, but at first to give a little
wet-up oatmeal daily, and afterwards a few oats or hand-
,fuls of barley, thrown intoa trough or shallow pool to
which they have access. These fine fowls attain, on a
good grass range, nearly double the weight of common
geese, and, forced by high feeding, a pair have been known
to reach the weight of sixty pounds. ‘T'wenty-pound
geese are not rare. arly goslings, if well fed, will at-
tain that weight at Christmas. The fact is, that com-
mon geese make a poor show upon the table unless they
are very fat. This is distasteful to many persons, and
they can hardly be very fat before the late autumn, be-

216 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

cause we need grain to fatten them. With this variety,
however, and the Embden, which matures early and at-
tains a great weight also, it is different ; the goslings are
heavy before they are fat, carry a good deal of flesh, and
are tender and delicious early in the season, when simply
erass-fed, or having had but little grain.

\ Ws

Ng
074 ~W~
SKS

Fig. 85.—EMBDEN GEESE.

In breeding geese, the surplus stock of goslingsis killed
off every year. None need be saved for wintering and
breeding, except it may be well to keep one or two fine
geese to take the places of old birds killed or hurt by
some accident. Geese lay regularly, brood and rear their
goslings well for fifty to eighty years, and it is said grow

RAISING GEESE. P17

‘tougher every year. So if one has a good breeding goose,
one which does her own duty well, and is reasonably
peaceable towards other inhabitants of the farm-yard, it
is best to keep her for years. Sometimes a goose will be
very cross, killing ducklings and chickens, attacking
children, etc. Such a one isa fit candidate for the spit.

Ganders are generally much worse, and usually one
more than five or six years old becomes absolutely un-
bearable. So provision is naturally made to replace the
old ganders every three or four years. It is, besides
necessary to do so, for, though a young gander will at-
tend four geese very well, an old one confines his atten-
tions to one only, and often proves infertile at six or
eight years old, getting crosser all the time.

PLUCKING.

A part of the profit of keeping geese depends upon
their yield of feathers. When geese are bred carefully
for exhibition and sale at high prices, only old ones
should be plucked, and they only once or twice in the
season.. But when raised for market, the old ones may
be plucked three times, and the young ones once before
killing time, and the flock ought to yield, on an average, ©
18 to 20 ounces of dry feathers, besides considerable
down at the summer pickings.

Common geese will yield about a pound of feathers a
year, if close picked, and they are often picked cruelly
close. This is unnecessary, for at the right time the
feathers have a very slight hold, and the operation of
plucking tnem is painless.

CHA PT Rp cox,
RAISING DUCKS.
PROFITS IN DUCK RAISING.

Most farmers have a prejudice against water-fowl,
especially ducks. They tolerate geese better than ducks,
because they will forage for themselves, and live wholly
on grass through the summer, after the goslings are
started. Ducks will not bear neglect so well; they are
more prone to wander and get lost or devoured in
swamps or brooks. ‘They have a foolish way of drop
ping their eggs in water, and of following a brook, or
river, into neighboring farms; unless they have suitable
quarters, and receive regular attention, it is a good deal
of trouble to look after them. The half-starved duck
disposes of a good deal of corn at a single feed, remem-
bering the past and anticipating the future. The slip-
shod farmer is prejudiced against the bird, and will
have none of him. But the duck has so many good
qualities, matures so early, and furnishes so rare a re-
past, that the owner of a country home with cultivated
tastes can hardly afford to do without a duck-yard.
The flesh, in our esteem, is the greatest delicacy raised
upon the farm; and if they were much more troublesome
than we have ever found them, we should not hesitate
to keep them. ‘The fact is, a large part of the trouble
is owing to sheer neglect, and the reputation of the bird
as a gross feeder is owing to irregular supplies of food.
If grain or other food is kept within reach, they devour
no more than other fowls that mature as rapidly. If in
suitable quarters and well fed, they get most of their
growth in four months, and can be marketed in August

(218)

RAISING DUCKS. 219

at the watering-places when prices are highest. The
impression that a pond or brook is necessary to raise the
ducklings is erreneous. They need no more water than
chickens until they are three months old, and are better
off without any pond to swim in. We have raised fifty
in a season in a quarter-acre yard, and found them no
more troublesome than chickens. The best mothers are
hens, and we prefer the Asiatic fowls, either Cochins or
Brahmas. A hen of these breeds will cover nine or ten
eggs. We have found an old barrel with a board at the
end to fasten the bird upon her nest, as good as a more
expensive coop. They are let off regularly at noon
every day, when they have a half hour’s range green
food, grain and water. The young ducks are fed with
some fresh animal food and coarse Indian meal scalded ;
this, varied with chopped cabbage, turnips, worms, and
liver, is the staple food until they are three months old.
They do much better on soft food than on grain.

The paradise of ducks is a location on a tide-water
stream or cove, where there is a constant succession of
sea-food with every tide. If furnished with a little
house or pen upon the shore, and a variety of grain,
they will come home regularly every night and lead an
orderly life. The eggs are usually laid at night, or early
in the morning, and very few of them need be lost. Of
the four varieties, Rouen, Aylesbury, Cayuga, and
Pekin, we give the preference to the last for size, early
maturity, abundance of eggs, hardiness, and domestic
habits.

A plan of a convenient house is shown by the accom-
panying engraving. For fifty to one hundred ducks it
should be thirty feet long, twelve feet wide, and from
four feet high at the front to six or eight feet in the
rear. Entrance doors are made in the front, which
should have a few small windows. At the rear are the
nests; these are boxes open at the front. Behind each

220 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

nest is a small door through which the eggs may ve
taken. It is necessary to keep the ducks shut up in the
morning until they have laid their eggs, and a strip of
wire netting will be required to inclose a narrow yard
in front of the house. Twine netting should not be
used, as the ducks put their heads through the meshes
and twist the twine about their necks, often so effectively

———SS————T

Fig. 86.—DUCK HOUSE,

as to strangle themselves. To avoid all danger, the
wire fence should have a three or four-inch mesh.
Among the most profitable varieties as layers are the
Pekins. A fair yearly product for a duck in its second
year is a hundred and twenty eggs, and sixty to eighty
for a yearling. ‘Their feathers are of the best quality,
white, with a creamy shade; and five ducks weighing
five pounds each have yielded, killed in the winter-time
when fully feathered, more than one pound inall. It
will be right to pick the ducks when moulting is begin-

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Fig. 87.—IMPROVED PEKIN DUCKS,

RAISING DUCKS. 228

ing; the feathers are then loose and are picked easily
and without injury. This will considerably increase the
yield of feathers, and will prevent a useless loss; other-
wise the loose feathers from twenty ducks will be founa
spread over their whole range.

It by no means follows because ducks are a water-fow]
that much water is required to raise them. Yet this is
avery common impression, and multitudes of farmers
and villagers deny themselves the enjoyment and profit
of a flock of ducks because they have no pond or stream
near the house. It is true that adult ducks will get a
good deal of their living out of a water privilege, if they
have one. It is not true that water to swim in is essen-
tial to their profitable keeping. They want some range
and grass and good fresh water to drink every day.
Ordinarily, ducks can be profitably raised wherever hens
can be. They make a pleasing variety in the poultry-
yard, and all who have room for them can enjoy them.
The first thing in raising ducks is to get them out of
the shell, and for incubation we decidedly prefer hens
to ducks. They sit more steadily, and take much better
care of the young. The wetting of the ducks’ eggs daily
in the last two weeks of incubation is even more neces-
sary than for hens’ eggs. This is sometimes done by
sprinkling water upon them, but we think it better to
take them from the nest and put them in a basin of
tepid water about blood-warm. ‘This moistens the whole
shell without chilling the embryo life within, The
ducklings out of the shell may be allowed to remain
upon the nest with the hen for a day. The hen may
then be put upon a grass-plat, under a coop, where the
ducklings can go in and out at pleasure. Or if the hen
is allowed liberty, the ducklings should be confined in a
small pen from which they cannot escape. A dozen in
a pen ten feet square is enough for the first two weeks.
For water they only want a shallow pan—so shallow

224 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

that they cannot swim, and in which they can wade at
pleasure. The water should be changed often and kept
in good drinking condition. For the first food nothing
is better than the yolk of hard-boiled eggs or boiled
liver, chopped very fine. The food had better all be
cooked foi the first week. It may then gradually be
changed to coarse scalded Indian meal, oatmeal, wheaten
grits, or rice, as suits the convenience of the feeder.
Bread-crumbs and sour milk are excellent food, as are
angle-worms and snails. Ducklings are quite as good as
chickens at devouring insects, and nothing seems to
narm them but rose-bugs, against which they should be
jealously guarded. Yor this reason they should be kep’
away from grape-vines and other plants specially attrac-
tive to these insects. As the ducklings grow older they
may have more liberty and a greater variety of food. If
they have not plenty of grass, its place should be sup-
plied by lettuce, onions, cabbage, or other green succu-
lent food. If you desire exhibition birds of the largest
size, it is particularly important that the ducklings
should be fed regularly, and at frequent intervals, hav-
ing all the food they can digest. Five times a day is
none too frequent feeding. We have usually succeeded
quite as well with ducks as with chickens ww a village
yard. When grown, we give them a larger range.

AN ARTIFICIAL DUCK-POND.

Ducks and geese may be raised successfully without
’ any pond or stream; yet some prefer to give them an
abundance of water, and such can make an artificial
pond on the plan shown next page. This is a wooden
box ten inches deep and four feet square, or it may be
two feet wide and six or eight feet long. This is set in

RAISING DUCKS. 225

the ground, except the down-hill side, which is partly
exposed, and provided with a short spout placed within
half an inch of the tcp, to carry off superfluous water.
A peg is inserted at the bottom for drawing off the
water when desired. Water may be conducted to the
box by a pipe from a spring, underdrain, small brook,
or from the well, by sinking a half-barrel between the
pump and pond, and filling it with water every day or
two, and so graduating the flow that it will merely drop
from the barrel through the pipe into the wooden box.

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THE CARE OF DUCKS.

Ducks are a very pleasant feature of farm-yard sur.
roundings. In the last of winter and early spring they
are sociable and busy enough, especially on warm days,
and begin to lay very early. The duck almost always
lays her egg between six and nine o’clock. So the flock
must be kept shuf up until all have laid. We have
found ducks to do better if they can be confined at night,
in winter, in a shed where the horse manure is thrown
out, than anywhere else. The heaps of manure heat
somewhat, and the ducks enjoy the warmth. It makes

them lay early, and the eggs are not likely to freeze if
15

226 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

we get severe “snaps.” Bariey and oats are excellent
feed for ducks. If these or any grains are thrown into
a shallow tub, or trough, they will soak and be all the
better relished. Pekin Ducks are among the best layers,
by far the best in our experience, laying not unfrequent-
ly sixty to eighty eggs each, in the spring, and often
again in the autumn, if the weather is warm. If ducks
are not confined at night, they will make nests in some
hedge-row or secluded spot difficult to find, and one will
become broody after laying sixteen to twenty eggs, or as
soon as she has a good clutch. When confined as we
suggested, they rarely make nests, but drop their eggs
about anywhere. Ducks are very fond of water-cress, and
if they have access to the water-cress bed at the spring,
there will soon be none left for the salad-bowl. Wire
netting, a foot in height, will form an effectual barrier

KE

, PEKIN DUCKS.

The Pekin Duck was unknown in this country or
Europe previous to the spring of 1873. The following
is a brief account of their importation. Mr. McGrath,
of the firm of Fogg & Co., engaged in the Japan and
China.trade, in one of his excursions in China first saw
these ducks at the city of Pekin, and from their large
size, thought them a small breed of geese. He succeeded
in purchasing a number of the eggs, and carried them
to Shanghai, where, placing them under hens, he in due
time obtained fifteen ducklings sufficiently mature to
ship in charge of Mr. James E. Palmer, who was about
returning to America. He offered Mr. P. one half the
birds that he should bring to port alive, and the latter,
accepting the offer, took charge of them. Six ducks
and three drakes survived the voyage of 124 days, and

RAISING DUCKS. Qk

were landed in New York on the 13th of March, 1873.
Leaving three ducks and iwo drakes, consigned to
parties in New York, to be sent to Mr. McGrath’s
family (who never received them, as they were killed and
eaten in the city), Mr. P. took the three remaining
ducks and drake to his home at Wequetequoc, in Ston-
ington, Conn. They soon recovered from the effects of
their long voyage, and commenced laying the latter part
of March, and continued to lay until the last of July.
They are very prolific, the three ducks laying about 325
eggs.

The ducks are white, with a yellowish tinge to the
under part of the feathers; their wings are a little less
than medium length, as compared with other varieties ;
they make as little effort to fly as the large Asiatic fowls,
and they can be as easily kept in enclosures. Their
beaks are yellow ; necks long; legs shortand red. When
the eggs are hatched under hens, the ducklings come
out of the shell much stronger if the eggs are dampened
every day (after the first fifteen days) in water a little
above blood heat and replaced under the hen.

The ducks are very large, and uniform in size, weigh-
ing at four months old about twelve pounds to the pair.
They appear to be very hardy, not minding severe
weather. Water to drink seems to be all they require
to bring them to perfect development.

I was more successful in rearing them with only a
dish filled to the depth of one inch with water, than
were those who had the advantages of a pond and run-
ning stream.

— HO

AYLESBURY DUCKS.

White occurring without intermixture of other colot
in the hair or feathers of animals and fowls is evidence
of change effected by domestication. This color, or lack

228 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

of color, becomes a very persistent characteristic, The
Aylesbury ducks are pure white, with orange legs, and are
one of the most beautiful of the white breeds of poultry.
All white fowls are beautiful and attractive. We have
white breeds of every kind of domestic fowl, and they all
have such notable excellencies that their admirers claim
for each that it is the best of itskind. ‘This is notice-
able in white geese, which have the best plumage; white
turkeys are most domestic, and white barn-door fowls
are most prolific. Aylesbury Ducks are claimed to be
more prolific and to fatten more rapidly for market than
other large breeds. This variety undoubtedly originated
in the vicinity of Aylesbury, England, where large num-
bers are still raised annually for the London market.
Its characteristics are distinctly marked, namely: Abun-
dant but close-fitting plumage of the purest white; a beak
of peculiar form, being long, straight, and broad, and
set on aline with the forehead; most noticeable, however,
from its being of a distinct flesh-color; it sometimes in-
clines to buff, but this is objectionable. ‘The most deli-
cate pink (as an English breeder enthusiastically said to
the writer, ‘‘ pink as a lady’s nail”) is the color pre-
ferred; the legs are of a light orange color. Ducks and
drakes are almost precisely alike, the latter distinguished
only by the curling feathers of the tail and by the voice,
or lack of voice.
This is an old and well-established breed, and in favor-
able locations breeds very true. Breeders so located
find it is not difficult to obtain the pink bills without
stain of yellow or blemish of dark streaks or specks.
This is supposed to depend upon the purity of the water,
and on the gravelly bottom of the brooks with which
their bills are constantly brought in contact. Exposure
to the sun tans them, and, from some not well-known
cause, it is almost impossible to obtain perfect bills in
many places, though the birds grow large and fine.

RAISING DUCKS. 229

It is customary in and near Aylesbury to confine the
ducks in warm houses early in the season,and to induce the
earliest possible laying, that the young ducks may be mar-
keted very early in the season, and high prices secured.
They come to the market just at a season when game
and other poultry are scarce and high. Now, when the
Aylesburys are removed from their home surroundings,
and, as in this country, are treated like other kinds of
ducks, they retain this tendency to lay, and hatch a
brood early in mid-winter, only for the first generation
from importation, even then to a less degree than the
imported birds show it. ‘The tendency to lay very early
would no doubt be maintained if it were encouraged as
itisat home. In regard to the care of ducks, it is well
to observe that the more a variety is changed by domes-
tication, the more attention they need, and usually the
more profit they yield. Many common ducks: lay a
clutch of perhaps 20 small eggs; in sitting, cover half or
more, and hatch them out, while the Aylesbury Duck
will lay 60 eggs or more, but until she begins to show a
tendency to sit, usually a week or ten days before she
sits, she makes a sort of nest, and there she deposits her
egos. The only way to secure all the eggs is to shut up
the ducks at night. They will usually lay an egg apiece
between dawn and eight o’clock; and as soon as each has
Jaid, all may be let out. ‘They all march straight for the
water; and if let out too soon, some eggs will be almost
surely found in the bottom of the pond. Ducks are
voracicus and almost omnivorous feeders; they are fond
of grass and water plants, water-cress especially, and are
diligent foragers for snails and the little shell-fish of
fresh-water streams, ponds, and swamps; and, besides, on
dry land they are indefatigable insect-hunters, young
ducks being often very useful in a vegetable garden,
where they gather aud destroy many plant-pests.

A pair of Aylesbury Ducks fit for exhibition ought

230 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

to weigh at least 12 pounds; in England they often reach
i6 pounds to the pair; and are occasionally heavier by
one or two pounds, thus almost equaling the weight of the
heaviest specimens of Rouen Ducks.

ROUEN DUCKS.

There is a prevalent belief among farmers that ducks
are not profitable poultry. ‘This arises naturally from
several causes. The habits of indolence which some
possess—the tendency not to hunt their food, but to
depend upon being fed and the scraps which they pick
up about the house—lead farmers to contrast them un-
favorably with the wandering turkeys, which find their
living and rear their young often in the woods, depend-
ing only in winter upon the farmer for their food ; and
scarcely more favorably with dunghill fowls, which during
the summer months require but little food except what
they hunt for about the farm. ‘The ducks, besides,
though some kinds are excellent layers, are heedless
birds, exposing themselves, their eggs, and young to
crows, rats, turtles, and other vermin, dropping their
eggs about, shifting their place of laying if disturbed,
inconstant as sitters, and chilling their young by taking
them too soon and too often to the water. Still, all
these objections may be obviated, in a measure, and
ducks really pay very well both in flesh and eggs for the
amount of food they consume.

The duck is an omnivorous antmal—eating almost
everything vegetable and animal that comes in its way.
Insects of all kinds, worms, polliwigs, fish, shellfish
(dead or alive), meat, even that which is partly decom-
posed, and many greer vegetables, grass, seeds, grain,
etc. Withal, its appetite is voracious; hence it grows

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RAISING DUCKS. PB

rapidly and fattens easily. The common tame duck is
supposed to have descended from the wild Mallard duck,
Anas boshas, common to this country and Europe. It
breeds freely with this species, and also with several
other species of wild duck ; in some cases the progeny
is capable of reproduction of its kind, in others mule-
birds or ‘‘mongrels” result. The fact that a very dif-
ferent class of birds is produced where the Mallards are
crossed with other species and where the common duck
is so crossed, with other points of difference, throws
some doubt on the assertion that the Mallard is the
parent of our common ducks. Besides, efforts to domes-
ticate the Mallard have not been successful as a general
thing. We have, however, many wild ducks capable of
domestication, and the experiment ought to be well
tried with all, for thus our stock of domestic poultry
may be essentially increased and improved.

The Rouen breed is the most highly esteemed of all
domestic ducks by many duck brecders. Its habits are
quiet, and so it does not wander about and get lost, as
ducks do. Itattains a great weight, and is unsurpassed
asa layer. An English writer reports that he has fre-
quently known a pair of young drakes 9 or 10 weeks old
to weigh 12 lbs.- Sundry writers report very remarkable
laying performances of the Rouen ducks. One laid an
egg a day for 85 days; three ducks from February to
July laid 334 eggs, besides a few soft ones and five double
eggs. One of these laid every morning for 92 days.
The young ducks often Jay in autumn a good clutch of
eggs, and it not unfrequently occurs that a duck which
is a first-rate layer will manifest no tendency to sit.
This variety of ducks has, in common with many other
kinds, great beauty of plumage, which varies somewhat
in different individuals. The drakes are heavier than
the ducks, but the difference is slight in comparison
with the disparity between the sexes in most varieties.

234 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

The beautiful green heads and necks of the drakes, iri-
descent with purple and copper hues, set off with a clean
white collar and claret-colored vest, give them a distin-
guished air which the various colors and distinct mark-
ings of the back and wings does not detract from. The
females are brown, each feather being marked with
black, which gives them a speckled look.

The only variety which really rivals the Rouen as a
useful and economical birds is the Aylesbury. These, a
vurely white Hnglish variety, are beautiful birds and

ighly esteemed in the markets of Great Britain, as also
the United States, where they are known. ‘They are
good layers and nurses, not noisy; good feeders, and by
some decidedly preferred to the Rouen. The eggs are
white, sometimes inclining to blue, while those of the
Rouen duck are blue, with thick, strong shells; of the
two the Rouen has the reputation of being most hardy.
Where ducks are raised for breeders, it is a practice
(founded perhaps on prejudice) to set ducks upon their
own eggs; but if the young are wanted for market
simply, the eggs are put under hens. Hens will hatch
a clutch of duck’s some two days quicker than ducks
will, but it is thought that the young have not so good
constitutions. Young ducks raised for market often
get injured by being allowed to go freely to the water.
They grow faster and stronger if they only have enough
to drink, at least for several weeks.

CHAPTER XXII
ORNAMENTAL POULTRY.

THE PEA-FOWL.

Although the pea-fow] is well known as a bird of fine
feathers, few persons are acquainted with its natural his-
tory and real merits. It is a good table fowl, and as
easily reared as the turkey; still it is rarely seen on a farm
or country place, and then only as an ornament. ‘This
bird is a native of Asia, from whence have come nearly
all our gallinaceous fowls, the turkey excepted. In the
time of Solomon, it was an article of merchandise, and
was brought with ivory and apesfrom Tarshish to Judea.
One species of pea-fowl was found by an English
traveler, Colonel Sykes, abounding in a part of India,
where large flocks were kept about the native temples.
Another Eastern traveler relates that from 1,200 to 1,500
were seen by him in the passes of the mountain, within
sight at one time; and he speaks !n extravagant terms of
the brillianey of their plumage. ‘There are three distinct
genera, which include several species and varieties, such
as the Crested, the Black-shouldered, the Javan, the
Japan, the Iris, the Thibet, the Malay, etc. All the
domesticated sorts are surpassed by the wild ones in
beauty. Culver says of the pea-fowl: ‘‘ We find in its
incomparable robe, united, all the brilliant colors which
we admire separately in other birds; we find all that
glistens in the rainbow, that sparkles in the mine, the ~
azure and golden tints of the heavens, and the emerald
of the field.” White, the naturalist, found that the
feathers of the train do not belong to the tail, but that
they grow upon the back, the real tail feathers being

(235)

236 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

short, stiff, and brown, about six inches long, and serve
as a prop to support the immense train. By a peculiar
muscular action, the long train feathers can be erected
and spread, and their shafts made to strike together and
produce a chattering noise. The Pied peacock is white
upon the wings, belly, and breast; the rest of the plum-
age is as showy as in the other species. Pure white birds
are very rare, and highly valued; but from the absence
of the gorgeous coloring of the common kinds, they suf-
fer greatly in contrast with the latter. It is not until
the second year that the difference between the sexes be-
comes apparent. The bird lives from 20 to 25 years,
and reaches maturity slowly. The third year the train
of the cock becomes developed, and it is only when it
exhibits its full coloring that he is ready to be mated
with three or four hens.

The pea-hen lays her eggs on alternate days, and when
she has produced five or six she will incubate, unless the
eggs have been removed. She makes her nest upon the
ground, in a secluded place, beneath the shelter of low
bushes, long grass, or weeds. ‘The maternal instinct is
well developed in some hens; in other hens it is so lack-
ing that they even destroy their own young, or leave
them to perish from neglect. ‘The period of incubation
is from 24 to 29 days. The pea-fowls have strong local
attachments, and they rarely leave the place where they
have been reared and fed. They are sensible of kind
treatment, and will become very tame when gently used
and petted. They have a habit of roosting high, and
will choose an elevated place on the top of the highest
tree or buildings to which they can gain access. When
but three days old, the chicks are able to reach a roost
two or three feet high; and if they can mount from one
step to another, they will follow the old birds to their
highest roosting places. The birds are naturally shy,
and their treatment must be regulated accordingly. ‘The

ORNAMENTAL POULTRY. Mar

- proper feed for the young pea-chicks consists of hard
boiled eggs, cracked wheat, coarse oatmeal, and bread-
erumbs; and they will soon hunt after and consume in-
sects and worms of all kinds. It is necessary to protect
the young birds from wet and cold, and they require the
same care which is needed for young turkeys.

TRAINING PEA-FOWLS TO STAY AT HOME.

At ‘‘ Rose Lawn,” Paterson, N. J., there is a flock of
pea-fowls—half a dozen or more. They are confined, or
rather kept, in a lot of perhaps two acres in extent, which
has a high fence of wire net, and where they are associ-
ated with a small herd of deer and farm-yard poultry of
all sorts. They fly into the tops of the apple-trees to
roost, but never fly out of the enclosure. Seeing them
so apparetly contented, day after day, and knowing well
the restless habits of the bird, especially the male, which
generally makes himself a nuisance to the whole neigh-
borhood within half a mile, this domestic trait of these
birds interested us, and we learned that if one flies out,
he is condemned to wear a ball and chain, or rather a
cord and block, for several days. It is thus apphed:
Strong list of woolen goods, or other soft, strong band,
is passed about the leg of the peacock, so that it cannot
tighten, and to this is attached a block of hickory or
other heavy wood, weighing three or four pounds. ‘The -
block should be round or conical, and should have a hole
through it lengthways, and the cord should pass through
this, and be well knotted at the end. It must turn in
the block so as to prevent kinking. These gorgeous
fowls would be much more frequently kept if it were
known that they might be so easily trained.

Roo PROFITS IN POULTRY,

JAPANESE BANTAMS,

These quaint little creatures weigh about a pound and
a quarter each, ‘The plumage is white, excepting some

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Fig. 89.—BLACK TAILED JAPANESE BANTAM,

of the wing feathers, the tail. and sometimes the tips of
the neck feathers, which are black. The legs are bright
yellow. The tail is the most curious part of this breed,

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ORNAMENTAL POULTRY. 241

being large, and carried so erect as to nearly touch the
head. ‘The legs are so short as to be almost invisible,
and this gives the birds a curious creeping sort of gait
The little hens are exemplary mothers, and one of them,
with a brood of tiny chicks, would be the delight of a
boy or girl, as well as attractive pets for old folks. Thig
breed has the virtue, rare amongst bantams, of being
exceedingly peaceable and quiet.

ORNAMENTAL WATER-FOWLS.

In this country we have much to learn in the way of
utilizing natural waters, whether streams, springs, or
ponds. Any place, anywhere, be it afarm, large or small,
or merely a country-seat, has its value greatly enhanced
by the possession of water, whether runningor still. Of
the money value of such water, whether for stock, irriga-
tion, or as motive power, we do not propcse to speak just
now. ‘he valueof water in these respects is as far from
being appreciated as it is in its ornamental aspects. We
know of one body of water—a small pond, which is so
treated by its owner as to be both profitable and orna-
mental. It is a conspicuous object from the road, and
being not far from the house, its surroundings are
planted with a view to ornamental effect. ‘The water is
at the same time made useful as the pasture-ground for
a fine collection of water-fowl. The flock contains some
birds raised for the table, but is largely of the kinds
known as ornamental, and these are made profitable; the
place being in a populous vicinity, the birds do their own
advertising, and there is a sufficient demand for all the
increase. The practical part of the establishment, in-
cluding the breeding-houses, coops, etc., 1s at some dis-

16

2412 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

tance from the pond and hidden from view by a screen of
evergreens planted for the purpose. Among the birds
regarded as both ornamental and useful are the

RO

SEBASTOPOL GEESE.

This is a most peculiar variety of the goose, one of its
peculiarities being that no one knows why it is called
“‘Sebastopol.” It is said to come from the Black Sea
country, but even this is doubtful. The characteristic
of the breed consists in having a large share of its pure
white feathers, especially of the back, wings, aud tail,
very long, lax, curled, waved, and frizzled. -Thes«
feathers give the birds a somewhat bedragegled look,
when on land, but impart a most elegant appearance
when they are on the water. For the rest, though rarely
weighing ten pounds, they are useful table birds, are
hardy, prolific, and good sitters and mothers.

THE WHISTLING DUCKS

are among the ornamental ducks, in which beauty of
plumage is regarded rather than weight. They are
from South America, and there appear to be several
sub-varieties, distinguished mainly by the color of the
bill, but all agree in having a peculiar whistling note.
All are very domestic, and remarkably quaint and amus-
ing in their habits and movements. The birds shown
in the engraving are known as the ‘‘ Widow Whistler”
and the ‘*‘ White-faced Whistler.” Their general color is
a light shade of chocolate, with black below; the head,
neck, and bill are also black, making the white face all
the more conspicuous and very attractive.

Fig. 91.—WwaIsT, ING DUCKS

ORNAMENTAL POULTRY. 245

THE AMERICAN WOOD DUCK—OR SUMMER DUCK.

We have in this country many beautiful varieties of
wild ducks, some of which we know are capable of do-
mestication, and more which have not been experimented
with. One of the former is the “Summer duck” of
Southern and the ‘‘ Wood duck ” of the Northern States.
Hither name is appropriate, for it is the only duck which

Fig. 92.—AMERICAN WOOD DUCE.

remains with us during breeding season, except now
and then a stray pair of Mallards, and perhaps a pair
of one or two other kinds are very rarely ceen ; and its
natural haunts are the deep quiet woods far from the
dwellings of men. ‘The bird is rather rare in New Eng-
land, especially so in the Eastern part, more plenty in
New York, and abundant in Pennsylvania, and to the
westward and south, wherever a wooded country offers

946 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

pools and secluded river and Jake margins, close to
which it delights to make its nest and rear its young.
The engraving represents a beautiful bird, but one not
familiar with these ducks would hardly credit the cor-
rectness of an accurate description of its colors. The
bill and legs are red, the dark feathers of the head ex-
hibit gorgeous steel-blue, coppery and green iridescence,
and in some lights are jetty, velvety black, or purple.
The white feathers on the head and neck, in the queue-
like tuft of the back of head, and on the shoulders, wing
covers and sides are all clear, vivid dashes in every case
contrasted with black bands or bordering of dark, nearly
black feathers. The back shows the brilliant rainbow
hues and metallic colors of the head, while the breast is
of a delicate wine color, spotted with white, and the
belly white, shading into ash-color on the sides. These
colors belong to the drakes ; the ducks are similar, but
much less showy. In Pennsylvania and northward they
pair in April or May, and the female brings off her brood
of eight to fifteenin June. They migrate just before
winter sets in and are very likely to return to the same
locality. The flesh of the young birds are highly es-
teemed. During the winter they go into the Southern
States, and are there seen in large flocks.

This duck has been Senne domesticated, so as to
be as familiar as any denizens of the farm yard. ‘The
best way to get them is to find the nests, which are usu-
ally ina hollow tree not far from the water (they use
an old woodpecker’s or gray squirrel’s hole if they can
find one big enough), and transfer the fresh eggs to a
sitting hen, or else take the very young ducks as soon as
they are hatched.

CHAPTER XXIII.
BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING.

The foundation of the breeding of fowls is the same

as that of the other domestic animals; the rule that
like produces like, or the likeness of an ancestor. That
is, if the parents and grandparents are what is wanted, :
the chick will almost always be what is wanted. Find
two parents that represent the idea that you are breed-
ing for, and the chick will repeat that idea.
- When show birds are to be bred the sire must be of
strong constitution, and perfect in color and symmetry.
The vigorous red color of his head should denote strong
vitality. Not only should the individual be perfect, but
his pedigree should be such as to show that his qualities
are a family trait. It is thought the male influences the
color of the chicks more than does the female, while the
female has fully as much influence in deciding the prac-
tical qualities of eggs and flesh-making.

The tendency of the mixed color breeds is to run
lighter, if left to breed for themselves. Hence, males
with faded or light plumage should not be used for
breeders. Males that are darker colored than wanted can
often be used to good advantage by mating with hght-
colored hens, thus striking the balance; but matings
of light males with dark females are not usually successful.

Do not select overgrown specimens. ‘Those which
come up to about the average of the breed, and are not
too fat, will give best results. This rule applies espe-
cially to the larger breeds, but may often be disregarded
with the smaller ones.

RULES OF I. K. FELCH.

The following matings are among those recommended
for some of the leading breeds, by Mr. I. K. Felch, the
well-known authority :

(247)

248 PROFITS IN “POULTRY.

BLACK OR WuHitrt BreEps.—A metallic-black male
mated to females of same hard smooth surface color is
the best for both males and females, but such a cock

=

—————
2. Comb. g. Saddle-lackles. 16. Primaries, or Flights, not seem
2. Face. ro. Sickles. when wing is clipped up.
3. Wattle. rx. Tail-coverts. 17. Point of breast-bone,
4- Deaf-ears, or Far-lobe. a2. True Tail-feathers. 18. Thighs.
s- Hackle. 13. Wing-bow. . 19. Hocks.
6. Breast. 444. Wing-coverts forming the *‘bar.” zo. Legs, or Shanks.
7. Back. as. Secondaries, lower-end, forming 21. Spur.
8. Saddle the wing or lower butts. 22. Toes, or Claws,

FIG. 93. CHART OF POULTRY TERMS.
mated to females dead black, lacking in brightness and
metallic surface, will breed fine pullets, but the male
progeny is generally much poorer than the female. In

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING. RAY

black there is little to do beyond these two distinctions
of color. The metallic-hard-finished surface and the
dull black, if crossed, restore to the progeny the metal-
lic-black desired. Birds of this cross should be mated
to those of the metallic-black mating. In sold white
specimens, the points to consider are purity of plumage
color, that is, white in web and shaft. Males from yel-
low females are not satisfactory. Females with yellowish’
tinge and quills must be mated to pure white males.
PLtymMoutH Rocxs.—Males with breast of the color
desired in the females, with yellow back and legs, with

FIG. 94. BLACK JAVAS.

neck, back and tail evenly barred, the light shade pre-
dominating, yet free from any white feathers in flights
or tail, mated to females in plumage slightly darker
than, yet accurately described by, the standard. This
should be the mating to preserve the male line. Again,
mate cocks like the one described above with females a
little too light in color. This mating produces good
females.

WYANDOTTES, CoLoRED.—A male like that in stand-
ard, except that the breast be black with smail white

250 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

centers, thighs stone color, with fluff dark stone color,
approaching black. Mate pullets weighing fully five and
three-quarters to six pounds, full breasts, plumage of
same fully laced, yet the white center of good size, and
to grow smaller in the plumage and the black lacing
wider as it approaches the tail, when it
merges into a full black tail and dark,
stone-colored fluff, with thighs nearly
black, beak and shanks iN

NN

yellow, comb as de-
scribed in the ancestors.
This mating to produce
one line of sires, and no
sire should be used from
{any other mating if we
hope to see this breed
reach that accuracy and
uniformity of breeding

we seein Light Brahmas.
y LicHT BRAHMAS.—
wey Mate males with hackles
that have a good, fair, |
black stripe, but edge
of feathers free from
any smoky tinge, nearly
white undercolor and
cape, wing flights about
one-half black, coverlets
of tail black laced with

FIG. 95. FEATHER OF hit 1 lets FIG. 96. FEATHER
BARRED PLyMoutTH WH1te, lesser COVEYLICUS oF ginveR LACED

ROCK, white. Females of WyanporrTs.
standard form, intense black stripe in hackle, very
dark cape, undercolor of back so dark as to show black
spots in the web but not on the surface, tail black,
flights black ; standard in other respects. 3

Dark Branmas.—Mating No. 1. Hens that are

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING. Pe

standard, which were nearly perfect, steel-gray pullets
in their first year mated to a cockerel, metallic-black in
breast and thighs, medium dark beak, hackle and sad-
dle, broad in the black stripe and decided in shade.
This mating should be made in pro-
ducing the male line.

Mating No. 2. Hens that were
fine as pullets but have become
bronze-hued as fowls mated to a
cockerel with a black breast, evenly
dotted with minute white spots,
black thighs, hackle and saddle well
striped, and medium dark beak.

PARTRIDGE CocHINs. — Mating
No. 1. Cockerel weighing ten to
eleven pounds, hackle and saddle
rich bay, the black in the same being
metallic greenish-black, and broad
in the stripe, metallic-black breast
and thighs, flaff showing a bronze
tinge, indicative of rich, brown blood.
Hens are described in the standard.
This mating is the best that can be
made for the male progeny.

Mating No. 2. Cock weighing
eleven to twelve pounds, and of the
same color as described for cockerel
in Mating No. 1. Pullets large in
size, and in color reddish-brown
eround) penciled, witha deep brown, spacunk or LiGHt
with standard neck and tail. This BRAHMA COCK.
mating will produce finer females than males.

Burr Cocuins.—The mating most to be coveted
would be a cock of one even reddish-buff color from
head to tail, with no white undercolor in him; his tail
black, tipped out with chestnut; the coyverts chestnut,

FIG. 97. HACKLE

PROFITS IN POULTRY.

ra)
Cr

streaked with dark color; lesser coverts reddish-buff,
and in form standard. To such a sire mate pullets of
the same rich buff color, free from white in flights and
undercolor, tail chestnut or buff, dark color showing in
flights. Pullets fully up to standard weight. With
such a mating males and females would appear in the
progeny of a high order.

SELECTION FOR EGGS.

The best time of the year to pick out breeding stock
is when the hens are not laying very well, say in July or
August. Any hen
wil lay in the spring
and the best ones can-
not be selected. As
soon as the best ones
have been taken out,
‘ they are placed by
themselves and a rec-
i | ord kept, 1m order to
i find the average yield.
Rei The best laying type
is usually rather large
framed and long in
ae leg, neck and back,

FIG. 98. TYPICAL LAYER (Leghorn). legs well apart, breast
well developed, flesh firm, not inclined to fatness, eyes
bright, never sunken, disposition active, appetite good,
and great foragers. These characteristics will help in
selecting layers. Patent contrivances have been invented
for registering the number of eggs laid by each hen, but
these have not come into general use.

The best layers can generally be selected by careful
observance of the general characteristics above noted.
Good layers have ain strong vitality, and should be
mated with strong males bred from a noted egg-laying

raw)
Or
Co

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING,.

Tine. It is best, if possible, to have the pick of a large
flock, and to choose the males, not for fancy points, but
for the degree in which they possess the typical qualities
of the cael Select from the best egg-laying strain,

not necessarily from the flock which has taken the ae
prizes in the poultry shows. Care of the breeding stock
is very important; good feeding will improve the quali-
ties of any strain. ‘The older breeds will impress their
characteristics more strongly than those which have
been more lately originated. The oldest breeds, like
the Black Spanish and Games, are likely to be weakened
by excessive inbreeding, in some strains, and should be
selected with special aication to health and vigor.

SYSTEMATIC CROSS-BREEDING.

The continual advocacy of fancy poultry for common
farm use is an error. ‘The poultry papers, and most
agricultural papers, advise the breeding of certain pure
breeds, as if they possessed merits far superior to the
barn-doo1 fowls and common poultry. This is a mis-
take. No one advocates the use of thoroughbred horses,
well-bred trotters, pure Percherons or Clydes, pure-bred
pigs, or sheep, or cattle, to the exclusion of common
ones, but farmers are urged to improve their common
stock by breeding up, by gradually introducing better
blood, and breeding with some definite aim. Thus, our
common mixed sheep, which are regular breeders, good
mothers, and have plenty of milk, are crossed with pure
rams of one of the established breeds. If size is wanted,
with long wool, the Cotswold is perhaps employed ; if the
wool is to be improved in fineness without so much
reference to the mutton, one of the Merino breeds will
be selected ; while if early lambs of fine quality are de-
sired, one of the Down breeds is chosen by the raiser.
This is precisely the course which should be followed by
farmers in poultry raising. The advantage of grading

204 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

up common poultry is, however, not so profitable in
most cases as cross-breeding. ‘This is, properly, the in-
terbreeding of two pure varieties. We have, however,
usually no pure breed of fowls upon the farm, and of
course wish to utilize those which we have. Therefore,
the first thing to do is to grade up the flock. After two
or three years, when they have the looks and qualities
of pure-breds, the hens may be crossed with cocks of

FIG. 99. CROSS-BRED GEESE (Wild Gray and African).

another breed, and then most of the advantages of cross-
breeding will be realized. In this use of pure-bred cocks
which we recommend, no male bird should run with the
same flock more than two years. If he is healthy and
vigorous, end his progeny of the first year take strongly
after him, in form as well as feather, he may well be
kept the second year to run with pullets of his own get.
After three years the blood of the original flock will be

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING. 239

. reduced to one-eighth ; after four years to one-sixteenth.
One may have a flock of hens which have been carelessly
bred, and into which no fresh blood has been introduced
for years. ‘They are small, hardy, active, fair layers,
good sitters and mothers, and get their own living all
summer—but the garden suffers. How can the flock be
improved ? This, we conceive, is the question which
may be put by ninety-nine in a hundred of the keepers
of hens in the country. The answer suggests itself, but
first we should know whether eggs, or broilers, or full-
grown fowls for market (chickens in autumn or winter)
pay best. The farmer must treat his flock of hens
exactly as he would his flock ef sheep or his herd of
cows, or other stock ; that is, secure the use of full-blood
males having the desired characteristics. Thus, if he
wishes eggs, he will buy cocks of some one of those breeds
famous for the number of eggs the hens lay. Size and
beauty of eggs may be an object, or simply a large num-
ber may be most desirable. The French breeds and the
Spanish usually have large eggs; Leghorns, eggs of
medium size; Hamburgs lay many but small eggs;
while all are persistent layers of beautiful white eggs.
The half-bloods, as a whole, will take after the pure
breed in a good measure, and in so far may be said to be
an improvement upon the old stock. The second year
the three-quarter bloods will closely resemble pure-bred
ones; some will only be distinguished from pure-bloods
by an expert, while others will show their dunghill
origin very clearly, and yet, as layers, these may be the
very best. So improvement goes on. The flock will in
two or three years assume the appearance of “fancy”
poultry of the breed selected with which to produce the
improvement. The question naturally arises, Will they
be improved ?—be better and more profitable than they
were before? Perhaps not for all uses, but as layers,
yes, The hens will lay more eggs; they will be less

256 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

inclined to sit; if they sit at all, they will probably be
broody only for a few days, and as producers of eggs no
doubt the flock will be more satisfactory.

GUIDE TO CROSS-BREEDING.

By careful selection of the breeds, desirable qualities
of both may be combined in the cross. Defects in one
side may be counterbalanced by strong points in the
other, and the chicks excel either parent in practical
qualities. The best results are usually obtained upon —
the first cross, and the cross-bred male should not be
used for breeding. Breed the cross-bred pullets to pure-
bred males. Experiments after the first cross often
show defects of remote ancestors.

The most profitable use of cross-breeding on the farm
is grading up the flock of common hens with pure-bred
males of general purpose breeds, or if eggs are specially
desired, males of the laying breeds. The best plan is to
use the pure breed each season, raising the cross-bred
stock. 'This is the only kind of pure-bred poultry that
the ordinary farmer will find it worth while to buy,
namely, the pure-bred males for grading up the flock.
A selection of the best individuals is of more importance
than the breed, even. It is best to visit a large flock
noted for egg production and choose for oneself. Hardi-
ness and vigor are of more importance than other points.

The effect of a cross between pure breeds can only be
determined by experience. While some breeds combine
well, others, apparently as well adapted for crossing, do
not give good results; hence the results of actual tests
must be studied. The objects to be obtained by crosses
for table use are yellow legs and skin, hardiness, quick
growth, early maturity, compact shape, abundance of
breast meat. Some of the most common crosses among
producers of market poultry are the Leghorn and Light
Brahma, the White Wyandotte and Brahma, and Plym-

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING, 20%

‘ outh Rock and Brahma. With the idea of discovering
other crosses which might equal or surpass those ordina-
rily made, extensive experiments were conducted at the
Rhode Island station in 1892, and these remain the most
accurate and detailed account of crossing breeds which
can be obtained. Of all the crosses, the chickens from
the Indian Game and Light Brahma, and Indian Game
and Buff Cochin, seemed to do the best. Those from
the White Wyan-
dotte and Indian
Game came next,
remarkable for
quick growth. The
Indian Game and
Golden Wyandotte
cross was next in MA Ss
thrift. The Plym- \°S¢@/08SS8So
outh Rock and Buff
Cochin cross was \3
unsatisfactory, like- =
wise the Dark Brah- 26s
ma and Silver Wy- <= <
andotte. F -

Indian Game and
Light Brahma.—
Cockerel, plumage
similar to Light
Brahma but darker,
with some yellow. Larger than Brahma and between
the two in shape; comb and wattles the same as Brahma.
Body wide, legs long. Pullet, plumage brown with pen-
ciled feathers, dark hackles. Resemble Brown Malay
hen except in the slight leg feathering. Lay well, eggs
as large as Brahmas. Each sex is as uniform in size
and in color as a pure breed. They are hardy, quiet,
good feeders, and are closely feathered. There was

17

FE

af

FIG. 100. CORNISH INDIAN GAME HEN.

258 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

hardly any loss among the chickens. A very desirable ~
Cross.

Indian Game and Houdan.— Plumage black, or
shightly mixed with white, small crests. Cockerels have
flesh colored legs, and pullets dark legs. Are active,
grow quick, and fairly hardy. There is not much dif-
ference in size between cockerels and pullets. Are uni-
form in appearance.

Indian Game and Golden Wyandotte.—In plumage
and appearance most like Golden Wyandotte. Markings
uniform. Fairly hardy, quick, active, and plump at
any age. Disposition rather excitable. Cockerels much
larger than pullets. But slight loss among chickens.

Indian Game and Buff Cochin.—None but pullets
reared. Similar in plumage and appearance to Light
Brahma cross. Not so closely feathered, legs shorter
and more feathers on them. Larger and brighter comb.

White Wyandotte and Light Brahma.—In appearance
between the two. Both rose and single combs appear.
Body more stocky than Brahma, legs shorter, plumage
faded and muddy. Show more red in comb and face
than Brahmas. Disposition quiet; good feeders and
hardy. Cockerels grow very large.

White Wyandotte and Indian Game.—Plumage simi-
lar to Silver Wyandotte, dark with gray neck; breast
feathers in pullets slightly spangled with white; legs
and neck short; rose comb. Grow quickly, and are
always plump and hardy. Pullets are excellent layers.
Cockerels not much larger than the pullets. A desirable
CYross.

Houdan and Partridge Cochin.—Plumage a mixture
of the two. Small crests; legs both ight and dark, and
feathered ; active, quick growers.

Judging from these experiments, the raiser of market

‘poultry will not make a mistake if he crosses Indian

Game cockerels or cocks on Light Brahma hens, or on any

BREEDING AND CROSS-BREEDING. 209

variety of Wyandotte hens; or Wyandotte males on Indian
Game hens or Light Brahma hens. It was found that
Indian Games and their crosses were harder to pluck and
more difficult to caponize than any other of the crosses.

Various crosses were tried the following year at the
Rhode Island station, but none were found equal to
those already mentioned. Aseels were crossed with
White Wyandottes
and Pea Comb Plym-
outh Rocks; Indian
Game with Lang-
shans; Houdan with |
Langshans asad In-
dian Games; White
Game with White
Brahmas and White
Plymouth Rocks, and
White Indian Game
with Pea Comb Plym-
outh Rocks. Neither ===
the White Indian 7S
Game, White Game -##@
nor Aseel was found
to be as satisfactory
for the production of

FIG. 101. ROSE COMB WHITE LEGHORN
tuble poultry as the SO RTESS RET.
dark Indian Game. Aseels were found to be unsuited
for use in the practical production of table poultry.

In crosses made for eggs mainly, suitable combinations
of the smaller breeds will give the best results. White
Leghorn on White Wyandotte are excellent layers, and
pullets can be selected which lay a fairly dark colored
egg. Crosses of such similar breeds, as White and
Brown Leghorn, give splendid vigor. White Leghorn
on Light Brahma, and the progeny bred back to the
Leghorns, has been a popular cross for eggs,

it ly f ri
if
(UE

‘AN “NS
‘ > es
Ma CS
ete
a ~

260 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

The objection to crosses repeated every year is that no
progress is made beyond the first year, the cross-bred
males not being desirable for breeding. By grading up
the flock, however, this difficulty is avoided. Males of
the same breed are used each successive year, and the
flock each year becomes more like the pure breed, until
at last it is practically identical with that breed. But
being a cross and containing some outside blood, and no
inbreeding having been practiced, the hens have fine
vigor and are an improvement on the pure breed.

CHAPTER XXIV.
FEEDING FOR GROWTH.

Chickens intended for layers and breeding stock must
be kept growing rapidly, but will not bear forcing so
hard as chickens meant for broilers. When they are to
be killed and sent to market at eight or ten weeks of
age, they will endure high feeding and restriction of
exercise the last two weeks, while the breeding stock
must be fed for framework and stamina.

A farmer in one of the shore towns of Massachusetts,
Mr. L. 8. Richards, who keeps several hundred fowls
as a branch of his farming operations, who believes in
the incubator for farm use, and who is very successful
in the management of both chicks and hens, gives his
experience as follows:

The chicks are left in the incubator two days after
they are hatched, then they are removed to the brooder,
which is heated by a kerosene lamp in the rear, outside.
The brooder is warmed by top heat, through tin pipes
running on either side within, one in the middle and
another across the front, all connected, of course, with
two outlets in the rear porticn. I have six brooders,
each lurge enough for seventy-five chicks. The first
week I keep the temperature between 80° and 90°. When
two weeks old 75° will answer, and at four or five weeks,
70°. In the bottom of the brooder there is a platform
slide resting on the lower one and covering it, on which
the chicks rest. After a few days I pull out the slides
and remove the droppings, then re-cover with hay seed
and replace them. They should afterward be cleaned
every day. Have a sand floor or ground for them to

(261)

262 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

run on and pick to grind their food. The first week, if
cold, I use outside of the brooder a small 75 cent oil stove
or beater to warm the house for them, especially while
they are out feeding.

For the first two weeks they require a great deal of
warmth, and I am convinced that the cause of death
among so many small chicks is due to lack of warmth.
I speak from experience. The same is true with chicks
brooded by the hen. We have often found an appar-
ently dead chicken, chilled outside, and brought it to
life by warming it; in nine cases out of ten it will re-
vive and thrive. When the small chicks are out feeding

cl in the brooder house

during the first week,
watch them more or
less and see that none
get chilled. After the
first week they will gen-
erally yo in and under
the brooder at their own
Lees option, and when the

UNFERTILE EGG. FERTILE EGG. sun is out and shining
through the glass they will crowd together in the
sunshine, and during a very cold day they will get
chilled, even in the sun’s rays (unless the house is very
warm), rather than go under the brooder where it 1s
warmer. They like the sun. During the first week I
have a fine wire shutter with which to close them in
the brooder when they have been out long enough, and
always at night for a week, and perhaps two, if cold.
If not so restrained, they would get out too early in the
morning, become chilled, and die. After the first week
or two I do not use it, but let them go out and in at
will. This, I think, will answer for the incubator and
brooder. One other point should be mentioned, and
that is, I should advise one not to touch an incubator

TTA AnD
rm ia

=S S.
———S
==

oe
MTT

l 4G Mi

Uy) Wl nun
HH MH
fh

—.-

FEEDING FOR GROWTH. 263

- until he has raised chicks successfully by the hen. It
is one thing to hatch chicks, and quite another to raise
them successfully.

In regard to feed for chicks, which, of course, apples
to chicks with the hen as well as those in the brooder,
we give them the first day or two, when they are old
enough to eat, cooked eggs chopped fine. Get the hen
well filled with corn, or some soft feed, before feeding
the egg to the chicks, otherwise the hungry hen will
gobbleitup. After as
this give them some :
baked Indian meal
and flour bread
mixed,chopped fine,
and milk to drink.
After the first week
give them ground
oats, cracked oats,
cracked wheat and
sifted cracked corn,
boiled broken rice
and white flour
bread or graham 2

bread. Milk, if you

es

=

have it, if not,water, 2s
for the brooder

chicks. Give them FIG. 105. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK.
meat scrap which contains ground bone, and also cut
fresh bone. You can, perhaps, keep a small chick alive
on cracked corn alone, the same as half the farmers do;
but that is not what the man or woman wants who is
raising chicks for profit, and who desires to get three-
pound-per-pair chicks in ten, or at the farthest, twelve,
weeks; and to do this you must work them for all they
are worth. But do not feed on cracked corn alone. I
assure you, they get tired of it, the same as we would

264. PROFITS IN POULTRY.

upon a diet of bread alone. Let them have free access |
to coarse sand or any kind of grit. Don’t leave any
holes open at night in your houses for rats to crawl
through.

Mr. I. K. Felch, the well-known breeder, feeds his
chicks by a fixed schedule. ‘The first meal is boiled
eggs chopped fine, shells and all, also corn cake and his
excelsior meal crumbled into scalded milk. After the
first 24 hours, the early morning feed is excelsior meal,
bread and scalded milk. At. 10 o’clock, a feed of very
fine cracked corn; at 2 o’clock, excelsior, bread and
milk; at 6 o’clock, canary seed, millet seed and the fine
cracked corn. If the season be winter, meat and green
food, steamed clover, fine grit, etc., are added. After
the chicks are two weeks old, and until they are eight
weeks of age, the bill of fare is as follows:

Monday—Breakfast, excelsior meal, bread and milk ;
ten o’clock meal, boiled meat, chopped fine, with steamed
clover; two o’clock dinner, excelsior meal, bread and
milk; supper, granulated corn, oats and barley.

Tuesday—Breakfast, the broth in which meat was
boiled, thickened while it was boiling (and when the
meat was taken out) with excelsior meal; ten o’clock,
chopped mangel-wurzel beets, and after eating what they
would, allow to finish filling their crops with granulated
corn; two o’clock dinner, the balance of the broth,
mush, and a pan of sour milk, if to be had, to pick at
till five or six o’clock; supper, all the granulated corn,
oats and wheat they would eat should be given.

Wednesday—Breakfast, fish chowder made ‘palatable
with salt and pepper, boiled potatoes, and thickened
with corn meal and shorts; ten o’clock, oats and wheat,
and all the steamed clover or green chopped oats they
would eat; dinner, cracked corn, and balance of chow-
der if not wholly disposed of at the morning meal; sup-
per, cracked corn and barley.

FEEDING FOR GROWTH. 269

Thursday—Breakfast, chopped sheep’s haslets, and
warm mush of wheat, bran and corn meal; ten o’clock,
cracked corn and wheat; dinner, all the steamed ciover
they would eat, and as dessert what excelsior meal cake
they would dispose of ; supper, cracked corn and. oats.
Give sour milk in a pan to go to at will.

Friday—Breakfast, the meat soup thickened with ex-
celsior meal; ten o’clock, green oats, chopped onions

=

oa

a:

5 WY

/

FIG. 104. WHITE WYANDOTTES.

and light feed of granulated corn; dinner, balance of
the broth, mush and barley to finish up; supper, cracked
corn and wheat.

Saturday—Breakfast, raw chopped meat and excelsior
meal mush, scalded and fed warm; ten o’clock, chopped
cabbage, lettuce and turnips, or mangel-wurzels, throw-
ing them a little granulated corn; dinner, excelsior
mush with barley; supper, granulated corn and cats.

Sunday—Breakfast, fish chowder, warm (made as
above) ; ten o’clock, steamed rowen clover and barley ;
dinner, excelsior meal cake and scalded milk; supper,
cracked corn and wheat, with sour milk ad libitum.

266 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

For the benefit of those who wish to make it, Mr. I. K.
Felch’s rule is given for his excelsior meal bread. ‘‘Grind
into a fine meal in the following proportions: ‘Twenty
pounds of corn, fifteen pounds oats, ten pounds barley,
ten pounds wheat bran. We make the cakes by taking
one quart of sour milk or buttermilk, adding a little
salt and molasses, one quart of water, in which a large |
heaping teaspoonful of saleratus has been dissolved, then
thicken all witb the excelsior meal to a little thicker
batter than your wife does for corn cakes. Bake in
shallow pans till thoroughly ccoked. We believe a well-
appointed kitchen and brick oven pays, and in the bak-
ing of this food enough for a week can be cooked ata
time.” Some growers obtain stale: bread very cheaply
and use it in place of a cooked bread like the above.

A correspondent furnishes this excellent bill of fare:
First week—at 6 a. m., cracker mixture; 9 a. m., clab-
bered milk; 12 m., cracker mixture; 3 p. m., chopped
cabbage; 6 p. m., cooked oat meal. Second week—6
a. m., cracker mixture; 9 a. m., clabbered milk; 12 m.,
oat meal, dry; 3 p. m., chopped cabbage; 6 p. m.,
cracker mixture. Third week—6 a. m., cracker mix-
ture, omitting the egg; 9 a. m., chopped cabbage; 12
m., cracked wheat; 3 p. m., clabbered milk; 6 p. m.,
oat meal, cooked. Fourth week—6 a. m., cracker mix-
ture; 9a. m., clabbered milk and oat meal, dry; 12 m.,
chopped cabbage and cracked wheat; 3 p. m., cracked
corn; 6 p. m., cracker mixture. Skimmed milk is
allowed freely, but no water. ‘The cracker mixture con-
sists of cracker dust soaked in milk and mixed with
boiled yolk of eggs, fine ground bone and ground beef
scraps; the first week it should be nearly half egg.

R. G. Buffinton writes: Ul feed the young chickens
the first three days on hard-boiled eggs, and then stale
bread or broken crackers for a few days longer, or until
they get smart enough to run out. I then give them

FEEDING FOR GROWTH. 267

_the same as I do the old fowls in the morning—corn
meal, fine feed, boiled potatoes and beef scraps, always
using a little of the egg food. After they are two weeks
old, I keep cracked corn and wheat by them all the time.

Pigs’ liver is one of the best forms of animal food for
chicks. It is extensively used by Plymouth county
poulterers who hatch artificially. Codfish has killed
chicks.

The coops should be often moved to fresh locations,
on dry, green grass plots if possible, and plenty of fresh

Z 4
TA eS
quel 5 Z Yn ) —_—S Ey

S S aay
i = ass te"

FIG. 105. WHITE WONDERS.

water given daily; put old nails, or other iron, in the
water, as iron is good for their health. When the chicks
get strong they may be allowed to roam at will with the
hen. If there is danger of hawks, a run or yard coy-
ered with a wire screen may be necessary. It is also a
good idea to make a box out of slats wide enough apart
to admit chicks of various sizes, and yet exclude hens,
and throw the feed for the chicks in this, so that they
can. eat without being robbed by the larger fowls. The

268 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

chicks of different ages should be kept at quite a dis- |
tance from each other for this reason, allowing only
flocks of same age to feed together. When the chicks
are six weeks old they may be removed to some other
part of the farm, where they will have a fresh hunting-
ground for insects, which will form an important part
of their food. They should be placed in small, portable
houses, eight feet long, four feet wide, three feet high
in front and two feet high in rear, with tight floor and
roof. The sides of this building should be boarded per-
pendicularly, leaving one-inch space between each board
to secure perfect ventilation without a draught.

When the chickens are removed to these houses they
should be placed at quite a distance from, and out of
sight of, their former habitation; if this is not done,
they are liable to go back to their former coop. They
should be moved at night, and shut in the house for a
day or two, when they may be let out just at dusk,
always feeding them near their new quarters. After a
day or two they will be contented, and will always be
found at night im their new home. If they are placed
near some cornfield they will do no injury to the grow-
ing crop, and it will serve as a shelter for them from
the burning sun. As the season grows later and the
hay crop is gathered, the colonies may be scattered all
over the mowing fields to a great advantage to the next
season’s crop. The chickens will destroy all the insects,
and the fertilizer that they will deposit will make the
fields look green.

FATTENING AND MARKETING.

Old hens are unprofitable, and should be weeded out,
and autumn is the time to do it if they were not sold in
the spring or used for potpie during the summer. They
will never be heavier and fatter than they are then, and
the feed they will consume will be all loss. For fatten-

FEEDING FOR GROWTH. 269

ing fowls, the following arrangement will be found ef-
fective: A long, low box (a shoe box, laid upon its
side, answers very well) is lathed up and down in the
front, leaving an opening all along the front, a bar being
fitted across the box, three inches above the bottom.
This bottom opening is to clean out the box with a
scraper, once every day; after which dry earth is thrown
in. This box will hold six fowls, and a feeding trough
and a water can should be fitted in front. A number of
boxes may be tiered one over the other, and when the
fowls have fed, the front should be covered and dark-
ened, by hanging bagging over it. This will keep the
fowls quiet. Two weeks of this treatment will fatten
them. The finest flesh is made by feeding cornmeal
and boiled potatoes, mixed with skimmed milk, quite
thick, and four feeds a day should be given. Fowls are
best slaughtered and dressed as follows: A barrel is pro-
vided, with a number of nails driven in around the open
edge. A number of loops of twine, about six inches
long, are also provided. ‘The bird is fastened by noosing
the loop around the legs, and is hung in the barrel, head
downward. The head is then taken in the left hand,
and a-sharp pointed knife is pushed through the throat,
close to the vertebra, and drawn forward so as to cut
the throat clear through, by which sensation is at once
arrested, and the fowl bleeds to death rapidly and pain-
lessly. Being confined in the barrel, the splashing from
the fluttering is avoided, and everything is done in a
cleanly and easy manner. Dry picking is preferred by
the marketmen, but the extra price will hardly pay for
the trouble over the scalding of the fowls, and the easier
picking in that way. To scald a fowl, take a pail three-
quarters full of boiling water, and plunge the bird into
it, drawing it up and down a few times. Keep the
water up tothe scalding heat by adding a quart of boil-
ing water occasionally.

270 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Ducks are fed nearly the same as chickens, except
that they need rather more animal food as they increase
in size. They should be carefully guarded from rain
for the first fortnight. . They should also be yarded
while young, for if allowed free range, they greedily
devour all manner of insects, which they do not stop to
kill, and too often pay the penalty with their lives.
Boiled potatoes and vegetables should be fed freely, at
least once a day, to young ducks, which should have
four meals each day until five weeks old. Cracked corn
and refuse wheat may be kept by them, but while fatten-
ing they should have all the soft food they can eat at
least three times a day. Ducks should be marketed at
nine or ten weeks old, as soon after that the pin feathers
begin to grow and they are off condition and soon be-
come poor, while it 1s an immense job to pick them. If
not marketed at the time above mentioned, they will
not be in condition again till after they are four months
old. Pekin ducks at nine weeks old, if well fed, will
dress from eight to eleven pounds per pair.

PACKING AND SHIPPING.

In packing poultry, assort them carefully, putting the
large ones, also the small ones and any old bulls or cocks, »
each by themselves, and mark the number in the pack-
age. During Thanksgiving week, large fancy turkeys,
weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds each, generally
command the best prices of the year. The market is
then usually filled with ‘‘fair to poor” stock, which
goes at low figures; but even ten-pound turkeys, fat and
well dressed, bring good prices, unless, as is sometimes
the case, warm, rainy weather demoralizes the market.
Make your packages as uniform as possible. Nice boxes
of regular dimensions are much better than irregular
ones. We subjoin a cut giving best sizes used for tur-
keys and chickens, and showing style of packing gener-

FEEDING FOR GROWTH. repel l

- ally preferred. Western shippers who send large quan-
tities had better adopt these packages and style of pack-
ing, even if at considerable trouble and expense, as it
will give them a decided advantage over other shippers
who use old boxes of all sizes, ready to fall apart on
| arrival—because, when shipped as above suggested, it
insures quicx sales, prompt returns and highest market
prices for quality of stock.

During cold weather, poultry can be shipped any day
in the week, either by express or freight. It should be

We A TURKS.

Turkey Chicken
Boxes Boxes

14 x 22 8 x 16
x26 x22

ya i
i A AIHLEAAN / {

FIG. 106. TURKEYS PACKED FOR MARKET.

entirely cold, but not frozen, before being packed. Boxes
are the best packages. Line them with paper and pack
so closely that the contents cannot move, but never use
straw, and never wrap dressed poultry in paper. On the
cover, distinctly mark the kind and quality of contents
—the gross weight and correct tare ‘in plain figures, thus:

|20 No. 1 250

Turks, 40 Choice 125
310 Chicks. 20
105

ADDRESS OF COMMISSION
MERCHANT.

ADDRESS OF COMMISSION
MERCHANT.

Also the merchant’s name and that of the shipper, unless
he is known by the number of his stencil. Stencils are

QZ PROFITS IN POULTRY.

furnished free for this purpose, when desired. When |
the correct tare of a package is omitted, the entire con-
tents have to be removed to ascertain the weight of the
poultry, and if frozen, it is often impossible to do this
without tearing the package to pieces, and if not frozen
it causes much extra work and delay, which will some-
times prevent the sale, especially if the customer .is in a
hurry, as is usually the case in the busy poultry season.

iF

N
\
~ \

ZZ
[hes

CHAPTER XXV.

FEEDING FOR EGGS.

Anybody can get eggs in spring and early summer,
but there is little money in them at the prices which
then prevail. The poultry keepers who make hens pay
are those who know how to get eggs in autumn and
winter.

A right start is very important. Pullets, not old
hens, must be kept for fall and winter laying, and pul-
lets which are mature enough to begin laying before
cold weather begins. 'To get such pullets, the chicks
must be hatched in April, for the large and medium
breeds. Jor the small breeds, ke Leghorns, May
hatching will answer. The pullets must be kept grow-
ing right through the summer, for if they cannot be
induced to lay by November, good-by to any great prof-
its for the year. Cross breeds and grades will lay better
than pure breeds, unless the pure breeds have been bred
and selected more for eggs and vigor than for fanc
points. |

Having secured the early pullets, and having placed
them in warm, light, dry houses, they must be properly
fed.

HOW TO FEED.

Feed in the morning a warm, cooked meal of various
ground grains, including a good proportion of middlings,
shorts or bran. Season it slightly with a very little salt.
About twice a week mix in a liberal dose of meat scraps
of some kind, and occasionally season it with cayenne
pepper. Vary the proportions of the different feeds

18

274. PROFITS IN POULTRY.

daily. This will keep them in good appetite and make
them anxious to see you as soon as ’tis time to leave
their roost. Give them also, occasionally, in the cooked
food, a quantity of bone meal or ground bone.

For the other one or two meals a day—some feed only
twice, others three times; young stock that are confined
should have a light feed at noon, the heavier feed being

FIG. 107. BROWN LEGHORNS.

given at night just before going to roost—give them
whole grain, making the variety as great as possible, and
vary their meals as much as possible. No two meals
alike in a day is a first-rate plan. Only feed Indian
corn, whole or ground, once or twice a week, unless to
fattening fowls. It is a poor egg food, but will put on
fat quicker than any other.

FEEDING FOR EGGS. ie

-There should have been stored, in the fall, all the
culls from the cabbage crop, for the use of the fowls.
When no green stuff can be had from their runs, and
when confined to the house, hang a head up in the open
yard where it can just be reached by jumping a litile,
and see how eagerly they will go for it, and how much
fun and enjoyment they will get from it. Good clover,
rowen, and in fact almost any good, clean, sweet
hay cut in short pieces, is good for them and will be
thankfully received and appreciated and good interest
paid on its cost. Vegetables, either cooked or raw, are
much relished also, and serve in some measure to supply

the place of a green dict. Onions chopped fine and

mixed with their food are exceedingly wholesome, and,
if not a cure, are certainly a preventive of disease.
Growing chickens are even more anxious for green food
than laying hens. But if the poulterer feeds too many
onions the eggs will taste of them; feed moderately,
and if chopped up raw, nothing is better for laying fowls.
Raw apples or other cheap fruit, chopped up fine, is rel-
ished in winter. Below is the ration of R. G. Buffinton,
a well-known and extremely successful producer of eggs
for market. He says:

‘‘Much depends upon the feed, especially for hens
that are yarded all the time. It will not do to keep feed
by them. If we did, they would be liable to get sick or
get too fat. Then they would not lay any eggs, and
instead of a profit there would be a loss. We cannot
afford to keep hens around half of the time doing noth-
ing. My morning feed consists of corn meal and fine
feed in equal parts, ground beef scraps, and in the win-

ter boiled potatoes. This is all mixed together with hot

water, adding a little salt and egg food. This is fed as
soon as the fowls can see to eat, except in the longest
days in summer. ‘This feed is put in troughs eight feet
long, eight inches wide and three inches high. The

276 PROFITS. IN POULTRY.

ends are put in so the bottom of the trough will be three
inches above the ground. This same trough is used for
the dry grain on stormy days, and in all winter weather.
At other times the grain is fed in the yards. For dry
grain feed, I use equal parts of whole corn, oats and
wheat. This grain is mixed together in a basket that
holds three pecks, and I always use a two-quart flour
scoop to deal out both wet and dry feed. ‘This mixture
is fed twice a day, in the morning after breakfast, and
at night. I never feed in the middle of the day or dis-
turb the hens in the least. I want them to spend all
the time they want in laying eggs. I used to feed at
noon, but found if
all the hens were
called off the nest to
eat dinner the same
number would not
go back again that
day.”

Four quarts of feed
per day for twenty-
six hens would be
about right. If they
=a FEO were large Brahmas,

FIG. 108. HAMBURGS. they might require
more; if Leghorns, less. The proper way would be to
give them what they will eat up readily. Wheat screen-
ings contain a large quantity of foul seed ; some of them
the hens will not eat, and of course they will take root
and grow. We have known hens to die from eating the
seed in screenings. The better way would be to feed
good wheat. A good winter fecd for laying hens is equal
parts of corn meal and fine feed ; add to this one-twentieth
as much ground beef scraps and some boiled potatoes,
mix with hot water and feed every morning. Give whole
corn, oats and wheat in equal parts at noon and night,

ee

Re

~2
~>

FEEDING FOR EGGS. n
_ giving a very light feed at noon and all they will eat at
night.

MAKE THEM WORK.

In no one point do so many fail as in that of giving
the hens exercise. Unless they are kept scratching a
great part of the time, they will not lay as they should.
Upon this point all are agreed. The usual plan is to
keep the floor covered with leaves, straw, cornstalks or
hay several inches deep, and to make the hens scratch it
over by scattering grain, and by stirring up the litter
with a fork. ‘The more time spent making the hens
scratch, the more eggs they will lay, other things being
equal, and the less time they will have for mischief and
learning bad habits. One man does in this way: ‘‘ My
new poultry house opens into the barnyard, where I
unload the manure that is drawn from the city in the
winter. Every morning I scatter four quarts of wheat on
the manure heaps, and the fowls spend most of the time
scratching for it. When not so occupied they are on
the nests laying, or are clucking contentedly in the hen-
house. Every evening before the fowls go to roost a
feed of corn is given them. I get plenty of eggs and
the fowls are contented and healthy.”

Whenever the ground is bare of snow, during the win-
ter, give the birds a chance to run. After their first
meal in the morning, give their feed on some grass plot,
or where the dead leaves are accumulated, and make
them scratch for it. They need just such exercise, and
will be all the healthier and hardier for it. When snow
covers the ground, keep them confined in the house and
the open shed connected with it. Hating snow and drink-
ing snow water will keep them poor, no matter how well
you may feed them. Feed the whole grain in the open
shed, in which you can put leaves or cut hay or straw,
so that they will have to scratch for the grain or go hun-
gry, which latter they won’t do.

278 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Another successful egg raiser says: ‘‘ Into the pens

(which are 11x12 feet) is put about four bushels of fine |

earth, and then dry forest leaves to the depth of one
foot or more, over which scatter whole corn, at the after-
noon feeding time, and I can assure you there will be no
lack of exercise. During the winter I keep fifteen fowls
in each pen of the above size, and occasionally add_plas-
ter and fresh leaves as they are reduced to powder, which
serve to keep the fowls warm and dry. All droppings
will be worked down through the Jeaves. I have never
had a diseased fowl, feather-puller or egg-eater since I
began using leaves in this way. Don’t let any fear of
filling your houses with woodmites deter you from using
leaves, when kerosene oil and Dalmatian powder are
both cheap and effective.”

HEALTHY FOWLS.

~ Thorough ventilation, a comfortable house, plenty of
exercise and varied food, are the safeguards against dis-
ease. Colds must be looked for, and treated as soon as
noticed. If this is done promptly and thoroughly, there
need be little fear of roup. A warm place for the ailing
ones, soft feed, cooked, of wheat middlings and bran
mixed, ground oats, with small allowances of Indian
meal, in which a dose of prepared roup pills has been dis-
solved, and made smart with cayenne pepper, is a goed
treatment. If they have a cough with the cold, burn
flowers of sulphur in their house after they have gone to
roost, until they are affected by the gas so they sneeze
well. This has a wonderfully good effect. Put a small
bunch of shavings in an old tin pan, or on a shovel,
with a handful of the sulphur, light the shavings, and
let it burn; shut the house up tight till they begin to
sneeze, and then take it out. The quantity named is
sufficient to ‘‘sneeze” two or three houses of fifty fowls
each. .

FEEDING FOR EGGS. 2°79

The dust bath should be provided at all seasons of the
year. In winter a generous box of dry dust by a sunny
window will be sufficient for forty or fifty hens if its
supply of dust is renewed once or
twice. Add half a pound each of
lime and sulphur to each bushel of
dust used ; these greatly assist in kill-
ing lice. Fine sifted coal dshes are
excellent. If wood ashes are used,
they should make up but one-fourth
of the dust, as their’ potash is too
strong when used alone. In summer.
wallowing in the dry earth is best.

SPRING AND SUMMER.

At these seasons, hens should be
fed twice aday. Give a warm mash
in the morning, composed of all the
odds and ends from the table, any-
thing but bones, cut and jammed up
and mixed with Indian meal and FIG. 109. SEVERE Case

OF ROUP, SHOWING THE
ports, or mne.teed, “about, halt and 33... pvecianem in

half; then scald and give as warm as PAssaGEs (See P. 318).
they will eat it. About nine o’clock give them a pan of
milk which has been soured and thickened, and a pail of
apples partly decayed, which they will devour voraciously.
About four or a little after give them a generous feed of
Indian corn and wheat, half and half. Keep ground
oyster shells by them, and mix scraps or meat cut up,
or grease, with their breakfast, every two or three days.
If the chicks are all right, the hens will lay all winter
with this slight care.

USEFUL HINTS.

To use pans for feeding, take a common milk pan and
two wires—one two feet long and the other one foot
long. Bend the long cne in the middle into a loop,

280 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Fasten the short one to it so as to make three ends
about ten inches long. Fasten these at equal distances
around the edge of the pan. Hang it by a string in the
henhouse, so as to have the top edge six inches from the
eround. The biddies can then reach and eat from it
without being able to get into and soil the food.

The old practice of feeding fowls on the ground should
be abandoned. It was formerly supposed that the more
sand, grit and dirt that was taken into the crop with
the feed the better, but the ground plan conduces to
disease, for there is a constant accumulation of filth, to
say nothing of disease germs, on such places. Either
feed on a long broad board or from a trough, for fowls
prefer cleanliness to filth at all times. It is also waste-
ful to throw food upon the ground, to be trampled into

——— = the mud on wet days,
there to ferment and
cause annoyance from
time to time, to say
nothing of the strug-

FIG. 110. FEED TROUGH. goles and combats that
are more lable from the system.

Economy in feeding is a very important chapter in
the hen diary. When fowls are fed all they will eat,
and food is left standing by them, it must be protected
against waste. Arrange a box, opening at the top bya
lid, and slats on two sides, running up and down. Put
feed inside, so the fowls can get their heads in, but not
their feet; or make a box-shaped coop, with slats run-
ning up and down, open at the bottom, tight at the top.
Place this over the feed dish.

A simple and efficient feeding trough may be made by
tacking a piece of tin about three and one-half inches
wide along the edge of a half-inch board, so that the tin
projects about an inch and a half on either side of the

board, bending the tin so as to form a shallow trough,

FEEDING FOR EGGS. 281

and fastening the board to blocks which raise it from
~ one to two inches from the floor (see Fig. 110). The
trough may be from one to three feet long. It is within
easy reach of the chickens, and so narrow that they can-
not stand upon the edges. Food placed in such feeding
troughs can be kept clean until wholly consumed.
Drinking vessels protect in the same way. We con-
sider galvanized iron dishes the best. You can get
them made, of any size or shape. ‘They are not to be
broken, will not rust, and can be cleansed with hot
water, and will last for years. ‘They should be kept in
a shady, dry place,
rinsed out every
day, and scalded out
every week. A com-
mon water pail can ‘
also be utilized. a
Saw out two staves 4
even with the top Ly
hoop on_ opposite ,
sides of the pail,
leaving a stave be-
tween those cut out;

cut a notch one FIG. 111. DRINKING FOUNTAIN.

inch deep and one or two inches wide on opposite staves.
Make a cover and nail on a cleat long enough to project
by at each end about one inch; then fasten another cleat
to the first, just long enough to fit into the top of the
pail, and fasten a strap to the other side of the cover
for a handle. When the cover is on and the cleats are
in place, the hens cannot knock it off.

The drinking dish should, in any case, be arranged to
promote cleanliness. A good plan is to raise it and en-
close it ina frame of laths. Take a long, narrow dish,
something like a tin bread tray, on a low shelf a few
Inches from the floor, and hinge the cover to one side of

282 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

the poultry house, so that it can be tipped up in front
for the removal of the dish or for filling it with water
(see Fig. 111). Whatever device is used, it must be
easily cleaned and of free access to the fowls at all times.

Cleanliness in all pertaining to the food and feeding
is essential. Punctuality in feeding is a matter the
French esteem of great importance, and it is being more
and more regarded in the same hght in this country.
Hens are early risers, also, and do not like standing
around on one foot waiting for their breakfast. The
morning meal, with them, is the most important one of
the day.

In feeding grain to laying fowls, if the flock is a large
one, great care must be taken that the grain is scattered,
so that the weaker fowls are not jostled aside by the
stronger ones. Our rule, in feeding all stock, is to see
that the weakest ones have abundant room. While we
soon can detect the unthrift of large animals when thus
crowded away from their just share, we cannot so easily
individualize the egg record of each hen in a large flock,
yet we must charge the minor members of the household,
when entrusted with feeding, to see that the least ag-
- gressive hens have room enough to get their due share.

COMMON MISTAKES.

In looking over the average poultry house in winter,
the most common defects are as follows: Bare, damp
floor, upon which the fowls stand and mope, and some- |
times get rheumatism; broken windows, letting cold air
blow upon the roosts or upon the fowls in daytime.
Both the above will check laying, and are common causes
of roup. Damp droppings left for weeks to heap up
under the roosts; lack of a supply of water, obliging
the hens to eat snow, thus stopping the eggs; lack of
plenty of good, sharp grit, which alone is a sufficient
cause of failure; lack of fresh meat and cut bone fed

FEEDING FOR EGGS. 283

_ twice a week; overfeeding, overcrowding, and no
inducement to scratch for a living. ‘These are the
most common and important mistakes, and those who
wonder why their hens do not lay, will do well to go
over the list.

See that your house is tight, so that on cold windy
nights the fowls will not suffer any more than can be
helped. A good plan is to keep a barrel in the building,
and the coldest nights put in the birds that are lable
to have their combs freeze, and cover the barrel. Above
all, do not crowd the fowls. During the long winter
months, when they ,
cannot exercise out of
doors, they will need gi)
at least seven or eight Ve)
feet square per fowl. f i
Scatter some hay We
around and throw the \ _
grain into it. This WOO
will make them exer- :
cise and will be what
they need, and the
eggs will hatch better
in the spring. Avoid
feeding stimulants to FIG. 112. RHODE ISLAND REDS.
fowls you are going to breed from, and do not give them
any more food than they will eat up clean. The rest
is very apt to be left and become filthy. Another thing
is, pure, fresh water; do not fail in this. You may
think snow will answer, but it is not good for poultry
and will make them poor. Warm the water on cold
days, and put a spoonful of red pepper in it. Fowls are
always thirsty, and a great deal of roup is brought on by
allowing them to drink impure water. Kindness is
never thrown away in pou'try. Show us a person who
studies their wants and loves to care for them, and we
warrant he will be successful.

284 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

- Some growers keep, for laying, hens without a male.
Under such conditions, the hens will lay an equal or |
greater number of eggs, and the eggs are claimed to
keep better than those which have been fertilized. Ac-
cording to experiments at the New York station, eggs
were produced at about thirty per cent less cost where
no cockerel was kept. The only objection to the plan is
the annoyance occasioned by the uncasy and peculiar
behavior of the hens. When eggs are wanted for hatch-
ing, the cockerel may be added about four weeks before
beginning to save the eggs.

ABOUT CERTAIN FOODS.

Old cheese can sometimes be had for a very low price,
and such has been found to be a very good egg producer.
Ground oyster shells, fine sea shells, refuse plaster
from houses, a little slaked lime, etc., should be sup-
plied to provide the lime necessary to form egg shells.
Good, clean gravel, to aid the digestion, should be

' provided.

Pork is not good to feed to poultry, and if used must
first be thoroughly cooked. It is sometimes recom-
mended in disease.

Sunflower seed, especially the large Russian variety,
is fine for poultry.

Clear rye bran will swell and cake in the crop, so
don’t feed it whole. Rye should not be fed too freely
to fowls, as it is very loosening to the bowels; it is
the least desirable of any of the various grains for the
production of eggs, and if fed at all, it should be used
sparingly. *

Cabbage for poultry feed may be hung up in the poul-
try house, head Gown, and high enough from the floor
so that the birds can pick at it and yet not. soil it.

Animals which die on the farm, if the disease is not
infectious, may be fed to poultry.

ras)
o.8)
Gt

FEEDING FOR EGGS.

Fish food is hable to cause bowel trouble, and should
be fed only in small quantities.

Bone meal is excellent for layers. One pound of bone
meal per day is about right for fifty hens.

Lawn clippings are good green food for poultry con-
fined in summer, and good also as dry fodder in winter.

Scraps of all kinds should be fed daily about the mid-
dle of the day, when least liable to freeze. Bits of meat,
soup bones, apple parings, cabbage leaves, celery tops
and small onions, or almost any refuse from the cook,
should be fed in a roemy box, where the fowls can kick
it over with pleasure. Pulverized clam shells, raw or
burned bones, with gravel, should always be accessible.
The cracked bone can be purchased by the pound frem
many of the fertilizer companies, also the oyster shells,
but nothing seems to suit the fastidious taste of some hens
so well as the clam shells. A shallow box is a conyen-
lent receptacle for this food. The lights (lungs) of beef
make excellent meat if boiled till very tender and chopped
moderately fine. They are too tough if fed raw, and
would only be wasted; they may be obtained from the -
butcher for very little cost, and will help much to fill
the egg basket. Tallow scraps or lard scraps are good,
and can sometimes be purchased from a distant market,
but there is some danger that the tallow was allowed to
become tainted before trying, in which case the scrap
might induce disease.

Dried blood is fed by some poultry men, but is men-
tioned with hesitation, because cases have been known
of disease apparently caused by the hens eating the
blood, which may have come from diseased animals.

AMOUNT NEEDED.

Experiments at the New York station resulted in
the following statement of the amount of food consumed
per day in winter for each fowl:

286

Corn.
02.
Larger breeds... 3.06
Smaller breeds.. 1.48

Raw Ground
apples. oats.
02. 02.
2.32 1.27
1.57 47

PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Total
erain.
02.
4.33
1.95

Total food

OZ.
6.65
3.52

Those who wish to go below the surface, in the science
of poultry feeding, should study the composition of

foods.

shows the make-up of the common foods:

Following is the Lawes and Gilbert table, which

20 Colee =
Eo aa a
cS LD Ao
tel (if co = 2
so Ae lo 2 H
There is in every a5 lage ag 5
100 lbs. of stay Of an eters q
5s ca ce H
ie Be SS ena K
Aes mo a
es i Bia | a7 ee
a ES 9 sa =
x oe Starch
lbs. lbs. lbs. lbs. lbs. lbs.
Beans and peas........... 25 2 48 2 8 15
Oatmealicsas. oo oek asa 18 6 63 2 2 9
Middling thirds or fine
SOntS fee eee eee 18 6 53 5 4 14
OBESE. weieoey sae woe e eae eek 15° 6 47 2 20 10
AIDE Hh Goce em mimsco BS re 12 3 70 2 1 12
Buckwheat fy. sss sesso. 12 6 58 13 11 114
PS APLC Yin cisiels se he celeste 11 2 69 2 14 11
im aiamnecorliny ss seeee cee 11 8 65 1 5 10
FLEMPSEEC (i): 2 ic 6 eee ae 10 21 45 2 14 8
PUG EM sorcerers byslk anageherle eo bee 7 80 13
BRobtatoes. nes cece es sass 64 51 2 504
AVE ales tere ieee eae crcreeateots 4x 3 5 3 86%
OTHER POULTRY FOoODSs.—(Hatch Station.)
{[Lbs. in 100.]
on
= 5 ena :
5 2 : eee os
° = td 4 S a
3 ae on ag
~~ S25) ~ . m fe
= os = S ae s
E oI = =e iD)
Ground clover........ pone Oss 7.43 27.80 1.93 13.65 39.66
W heat branihsehe Geese 9.56 5.27 8.85 nar 17.69 53.26
ACI ANS aor seta erial 5.08 28.63 16.18 40.03 10.08
Cub Mone yee6 eee vee 29.67 24.06 26.13 20.19
New process linseedmeal] 9.35 4.48 6.58 6.39 38.06 35.14
Buffalo gluten meal...... 7.14 .84 7.07 12.67 23.31 48.97
Chicago giuten meal..... 8.10 83 3.34 5.57 36.51 45.65
Wheat middlings........ 10.93 4.03 6.95 5.30 17.28 55.51
Whiole wheat. she ---5.-. 10.60 1.69 ZT 1.93 13.19 70.42
WihOlEsOAES So Hoe as lect 10.06 2.77 8.71 4.87 14.53 59.06
Soja bean meal.......... 9.24 5.02 3.87 16.25 34.75 30.87

FEEDING FOR EGGS, 28%

In general, whatever concentrated food is good for
making milk will also produce eggs. The following
analysis shows the general similarity of the analysis of
milk and of eggs, casein being equivalent to albumen :

ANALYSIS OF MILK. ANALYSIS OF HENS’ EGGS.

. eS eae White.| Yoll. |Mixed.
Wooler s.0.0c2: 86.3 SOON IWiaticre sa oa Se 54.8 51.5 Tien
Casein........ 4.1 4.3 ||Albumen.......... 12.0 15.0 14.0
Vin kestartenneer BUT (Oe eerie tec aise BoeRee Com Ene 2.0 30.0 11.0
Milk sugar... 5.1 5.5 ||Membranes, etc.. 2.1 2.0
MACS Mhraisijcccre gross 0.8 0.8 ||Mineral.. pairs 1.2 1.4 13

Rotaleeeses | 10020 100.0 Mo Gailieeene en ~ 100.0 | 100.0 100.0

Albumen and albuminoids are the actual flesh and egg-formers;
starch and fat are heat-producers and foree-givers; husk is chiefly
waste matter; ash, or mineral matter, contains phosphate, etc., nec-
essary for bone-making, feather-forming, etc.; in milk the albumen is
usually known as easein, this casein being the chief ingredient in
milk for cheese-forming.

THREE MONTHS’ RECORD OF EGGS LAID BY DIFFERENT BREEDS.

was N Oa
aS of an
Cm oS R o :
BREEDS. =5 oO. a REMARKS.
. . 3 {eD) +
O-= om > Oo
Zo ZA ee)
STOW de ONO sae emcee il 72 72 European origin.
IMITMNONCAR Mace cic oste ey seein 3 127 43 ns oe
HOUMA es oneness nS ee 1 24 24 f a
Silver Spangled Hamburg. 1 37 37 sé ee
ICE VISE We poe aceosootnpomcae 3 147 49 Asiatic origin.
ight Brahma... cses---- 25. 2 116 58 ss ss
inennnecelorey(Crool bub, 6s oeeecore 1 il 27 ee a
itis Cochitie . oes acc eo: 2 92 46 ae £6
Barred Plymouth Rock.... i 46 46 American origin.
*Houdan-Minorea....-...... 1 45 45 s
IBTONZe MUPKC Ys nec ccs. sees 1 27 27 ss a

*A cross of Houdan and Minorea, by the station.

The trial was made at Louisiana station, and the ex-
perimenter’s comment is as follows: The Brown Leg-
horns gave the best record for three successive trials.
They are followed by Light Brahma and Langshan and
Plymouth Rock, Buff Cochin and Minorca. The Euro-
peans are the best spring and summer layers, but non-
sitters. The Asiatics are winter and early spring layers,
good mothers and brooders, and excellent for table pur-
poses. Indeed, the Langshan is one of the best all-
round fowls known, and close to them are the Plymouth
Rocks, Wyandottes and Light Brahmas. However, it is
hard to decide the merits of a fowl confined to close
pens, and fed only vegetable foods raised upon the farm,

CHAPTER: 22x 1.

TURKEYS ON THE FARM.

Not every one can engage in the turkey business as an
occupation or means of livelihood, because so much is
dependent upon surroundings. All farmers are not so
situated that they can raise turkeys without incommod-
ing their neighbors. The laws of trespass are rigid in
most States, and any neighbor who objects to your birds
roaming over his fields can make you trouble, if he be so
disposed. ‘Turkeys must have range, and if your own
fields are not wide enough to allow them that necessary
element of success, either be sure of your neighbors’
good nature, or do not embark in the business at all.
Many turkey-growers believe that turkeys have a perver-
sity of disposition, which impels them to leave their own
premises, where there is plenty of room, grain and grass-
hoppers, and trespass on some neighbor’s land, to get
less food.

A few turkeys can be grown on a small farm; but
there are plenty of abandoned farms in New England,
which can be bought for the price of the buildings alone,
large cnough to grow large flocks. The convenience to
large markets enhances the profits. In the Western and
Southern States still greater numbers may be kept, owing
to wider ranges and cheapness of grain. Common fowls,
with proper care, can be kept with profit in any city or
village lot, but centuries of domestication have not
changed the turkeys’ natural love for a necessity of free
range. They can be made tame by gentleness; they
learn to be familiar with those who care for them, and
can be taught to come home every night; but, as soon

(288)

ON THE FARM.

TURKEYS

ty
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i lil i
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i et | | |
ae Uj oe “ls \ d
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oS) SS SSA MG vy) he \
ee x / yo AN Vy iN AN Mi
sw ong <a i wt 4 \ y NX ‘ vane
© on Wij ° ‘YN ! WV Bs; Wy \\ fi
a BU ey ue \\ 6 7 G ‘ de < ae
at = Wy / cee

LL.

BIG. 113. NARRAGANSETT TURKEYS.

19

290 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

as they have left the stage of ‘‘infancy,” as shown by
‘shooting the red,” their propensity to wander in search |
of their food asserts itself, and they must have that priy-
ilege or they will sicken and die. This is a fortunate
trait, for two reasons. First, it makes the birds’ flesh
better food for man; second, it limits the business to
fewer persons, who get paying prices for their labor. If
turkeys could be raised at a profit in confinement, their
flesh would not be so wholesome, and so many people
would go into the business that the price would come
down to a non-paying point. Turkey nature itself ef-
fectually prevents all danger of overdoing the business.

Turkeys are not hard to raise after you know how.
For the first few weeks of their lives they require more
care than any other domesticated bird, but after they
are fully feathered and have ‘‘thrown the red,” they
require less care than any other fowl. It requires but
little capital. Houses, except in the extreme North,
and turkey sheds in other sections, are not needed.
Turkeys must be raised on farms, and farmers raise
much of the grain they need. One tom and three to
five hen turkeys are enough to begin with. When you
can raise all, or nearly all, of their progeny, then it will
be time to think of enlarging your business. From a
flock of six you ought to raise seventy-five to one hun-
dred turkeys.

Turkey raising is an excellent Duaines: for women.
Many a farmer’s wife, whose husband does not care to.
‘*bother with poultry,” can earn from fifty to three hun-
dred dollars a year, according to the size of the flock,
the range and the market, without seriously impeding
the other necessary work which falls to the lot of farm-
ers’ wives.

Rhode Island Experiment Station: ‘*To the fore-
going it should be said, that we have found the largest
and most thrifty looking turkeys on rather light land,

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 291

- and where new blood is frequently introduced. If a
flock becomes diseased, the land which they wander over
may become contaminated, and affect other flocks which
occupy the same ground, hence it is sometimes necessary
to change the land on which they run, from one year to
another. If turkeys are kept where they may drink
from stagnant pools in barnyards, pigpens or privy
vaults, sudden and fatal attacks of bowel trouble must
be expected. A running stream is of great value on a
turkey farm.”

BREED AND CARE.

In reserving or selecting parent stock from which to
_ raise turkeys for the market, do not overlook a most
important matter, the age of the parents. Ten- or
twelve-months-old turkeys are not sufficiently mature
to produce the strongest progeny. Old turkeys lay
larger eggs, and the young are larger and stronger when
hatched. If necessity forces you to breed from stock of
your own raising, keep the hens three, four, five or six
years, if necessary. No judicious farmer will kill off his
good heifers after they have dropped their first calves.
He knows the progeny will become better and better,
until age enfeebles the parent. So with turkeys. The
same breeding stock may be kept, after they have proved
their value, for some time. When you wish to replenish
or renew the parent stock, select the best of your young
hens and get a first-class tom not related to them; then
you have your new stock to take the place of the others,
whenever it may be deemed proper to dispose of the
old ones.

The Bronze turkeys are at present the favorites with
the majority of those who grow turkeys for the market.
Size and hardiness are the important factors which cause
this favoritism. Sometimes private customers prefer
white- or yellow-skinned ones, just as they prefer yellow-

292 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

legged chickens. Boston has made the present taste in |
New England, which decidedly prefers yellow-legged
chickens, and though the preference is not emphatie for
the skin of White Hollands, yet, doubtless, it is because
it is difficult to obtain them. The compiler of this book
has sold yellow-legged and yellow-skinned poultry at
fifty per cent advance on the price of dark-legged chick-
ens, It may be a fancy, but if you get your money,
what matters it? By persisting in raising white turkeys
for the New England market for a series of years, a de-
mand may be made forthem. Outside of New England,
unless we may except the Philadelphia market, the color
of the skin and legs of a fowl or turkey receives but
little consideration.

By “‘common” turkeys is meant mongrels,—all sorts
of breeds mixed. ‘Too many farmers have such flocks.
Get a first-rate male of the variety you want and mate
him with your hens. From their progeny select the -
best females, and mate them with a fine male of the same
breed, but not related to their sire. Pursue this course,
‘‘orading up,” for two or three years, and you will have
as good a flock as you need for market purposes. —

GETTING READY.

Much depends upon the care of breeding stock, tur-
keys being quite liable to disease when kept in confine-
ment. ‘The floor should be covered with litter, which
should be renewed when badly soiled. Make them
scratch for their grain in the litter. Dryness, cleanli-
ness and a variety of food are important. Feed some
meat. Furnish plenty of grit. Overfed turkeys will
get too fat. Feed the old turkey hens clover and less
starchy food in the latter part of winter, and they will
give better satisfaction. Throw them some grain at
noon. Then just before sundown, give them all the hot
whole grain they can eat. Let them out as early as pos-
sible in the spring.

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 293

When the laying season approaches, the turkeys must be
watched. One man, who has great success with turkeys,
encloses a large space by a high fence of wire netting, to
prevent the turkeys laying and sitting in the woods and
fields. Nests are provided within the enclosure. Dur-
ing the laying season, the hen turkeys are driven within
the enclosure to roost, and confined during the forenoon
each day, until all have selected nests. When hatching,
they and their young are more readily cared for and
controlled. Humor the turkey’s love for secrecy, if you
prefer to have her lay out of doors, by setting laying
coops for her in secluded places not far from your house
and barn. Barrels, or ‘‘A” coops, with dried leaves or
hitter in them, will do. If she steals her nest in some
bushes not far from the house, leave her alone, but
remove the eggs daily, leaving a nest ege in the nest.
When she has layed her litter she will rest awhile, and
then lay another ltter, when she should be allowed to
sit. The eggs should be taken into the house and kept
in a cool (not cold) place, packed in wheat bran, small
end downward. |

Turkey eggs require twenty-eight days for incubation.
Coincide with the hen turkey’s desire for secrecy, and
let her sit in places hidden from the sight of men and
dogs. Bottomless boxes that will shed rain, old barrels
with two or three staves knocked out, ‘“A” coops, meas-
uring not less than three feet square at the base, placed
in retired situations not far from the house, are all that
are necessary for hatching purposes. If the turkeys
were taught to lay in them, all the better. The nest
should be upon the ground, and made of forest leaves or
chopped hay. The turkey’s first litter may be taken
away and set under common hens.

Mr. Samuel Cushman says, from his own experience,
that turkeys can be made to sit whenever required. A
young turkey hen that never laid an egg was shut on a

294 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

nest of china eggs, and there was no trouble in getting
her to settle down. ‘he first two times she was put off
to feed, she was caught and placed on the nest and shut
in, but after that the nest was left uncovered and she
came off whenever she chose. We never found her off

GG so
Uy NW Be MN ‘

/ ' | ( / WIE Ws Gh
I ce Saawre
NLT i JOIN. WHR
Ca “Wi, pas «

NM NFRAN A SSS
Ae
aa \ Ws: eS hyp
We eS
ASS \ ee i

SS GY

I» Zim

i
Hy ff lh yl il)

i
{i Ny

ant Ht | fff
BW AL OMA A
eB) aie 7, pitt,
Z U1, VV WAVES H

WA
V/

FIG. 114. BUFF TURKEY COCK.

the nest. ‘The shed in which she was set had a slat
front, so she was confined and could not go out of sight
of the nest or get away. This turkey was not a tame
one, by any means. Wecan control our turkeys better
if set within a large building or enclosure. Turkeys can

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 295

be used to hatch the eggs of hens, ducks and geese, and
- the raiser who does not have an artificial hatcher will
not have to delay operations until hens get ready to sit,
or until he can secure the desired number.

REARING THE TURKEY CHICKS.

The turkey chicks having been hatched, they will
require the breeder’s utmost and constant attention for
the first eight or ten weeks, for on the management of
the chicks depends the success or failure of turkey rear-
ing. Turkeys, when chicks, being exceeding delicate
{the most delicate of any domesticated poultry), and
liable to be not only decimated, but entire broods exter-
minated by a sudden cold wind or a slight shower, and
requiring, as they do, feeding every two hours, or six
times a day, it is advisable for those who are unable to
spare the time to give the necessary attention, not to
attempt breeding turkeys, for they will only meet with
severe losses and disappointment.

_ The chicks, having broken the shells by themselves,
without any fussy interference by the owner, may be left
to themselves for twenty-four hours, though the shells
may be removed and something placed in front of the
nest, if it be made in a box, to prevent any of the chicks
falling out and getting cold. ‘The chicks having, just
previously to emerging from the shell, drawn into their
body the yolk, they are sufficiently sustained for twenty
or twenty-four hours or so, and require no feeding until
the following day. If the day be warm and fine, they
may be placed outdoors, in a dry situation; if cold and
damp, or windy, they are better kept under cover,
though not in a close atmosphere, but where there is
plenty of ventilation, a large open shed protected from
the wind being the best. A warm bed having been pro-
vided, made of chaff, drv sawdust or dry horse drop-
pings, all over a bed of dry sand and coal ashes, to pre-

296 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

vent damp arising, place the coop, which should be pre-
viously lime-washed, over it, facing south, and the
mother and chicks inside. ‘Fhe poults hatched under
common hens should be given the mother turkey in the
night. Some breeders prefer bottoms to the coops, but
unless the ground be yery damp, that is not necessary.
If you dusted the mother with imsect powder two days
before hatching, there will be no lice to annoy them.

On the second day the chicks may receive their first
meal. On one point all turkey growers agree; no -
‘‘sloppy” food must be given the young birds. In a
natural state, turkey chicks feed largely upon flies, spi-
ders, grasshoppers, grubs, snails, slugs, worms, ant eggs,
etc., and if watched on a bright day will be seen to be
constantly chasing flies, etc., about the meadows and
woods. Berries, seeds, etc., make the variation. The
first meal should be hard-boiled eggs (boiled twenty
minutes), and stale wheat bread dipped in hot milk, the
milk squeezed out, and both crumbled fine and seasoned
with black pepper. This feed may be continued for two
or three weeks, with now and then a variation to thick
clabbered milk, or Dutch cheese in place of the egg.
Let it be known that the egg is a substitute for insects,
which the young turkey has in its wild state; so, as
opportunities open for the chicks to get insects, the egg
should be omitted. Dry meal must not be given them,
nor wet meal insufficiently swelled. If the meal swells
in their crops, death is almost certain. The best way to
feed Indian meal is in the form of corn bread or ‘‘Johnny-
cake.” After the young birds are three weeks old, omit’
the eggs and give meat scraps and ground bone. Clean
water or milk must be before them all the time. For
runs, the best are three fourteen-inch boards set on edge
so as to form a triangle, with the coop in one corner, or
shorter boards over one corner, for shelter from the sun

by day and dews by night. Every day or two, move

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 2974

‘two of these boards so as to form another triangle, Fig.
115, adjacent to the site of the old one. By the time
the chicks are old enough to jump over the boards, they
may be allowed to wander about with their mother, after
the morning dew is off. After that time, three feedings
a day are sufficient, and when they are weaned, feeding
at morning and night only is enovgh. With a good
range over wheat stubble, which they can have in the
Western States and territories, and plenty of grasshop-
pers) 10 Opherg—- >
feeding is neces-
sary after they are '
educated to come
home to roost.
Mr.- Barber
Waites: = Our
turkeys lay and
sitin large, roomy
coops, two and
one-half feet long

by two feet wide,

‘oh in iG do: PEN 10 CONFINE LITTLE TURKEYS,
two feet high in UNTIL OLD ENOUGH TO JUMP OVER;
front, with a slope MOTHER AT LIBERTY.

of six inches to the rear; we keep the turkey hens, with
their broods, in a lot, on short grass.”

Instead of cooping brooding turkeys to prevent them
from roaming too much, W. P. Lewis, who raises 90 per
cent of his hatch, fastens the hen with a cord toa peg
in the ground, after the manner cows are tied out to
pasture. After being pegged down for a few days, the
hens are ‘‘shingled,” so they cannot fly over walls and
fences, and are then allowed free range. In ‘‘shin-
gling,” or ‘‘ boarding,” turkevs, a thin board or shingle,
in which holes are bored, is fastened across the shoulders
of the bird by soft cords, tape or strips of cloth. When
of the proper shape and the boards are in the right

PROFITS IN POULTRY.

298

s

oa
“we

Paol Fast
‘ Mee

SL Nn

Mem G

az. oy
iy: eae
\. \
THM \s UNG Vy
std!

bls
AG

Ay SPAUITINSA ARR
A Is Mt I (Hj \ } i

"SAUMUNL GNVTION ALIHM ‘OTT OIA

ren
Ve

:

A,

a.

TURKEYS ON THE FARM 299

‘place, and the cords are not tied too tightly, they may
be worn twelve months without injury to the turkey.
By this method the birds may be confined to one field as
easily as sheep. ‘This is better and surer than clipping
one wing. ‘The only objection to it is that turkeys thus
hampered are almost at the mercy of dogs. When the
board is first adjusted, the turkeys try to free themselves,
but they usually accept the situation in less than an hour,
and do not seem to mind them afterward. ‘The strings
are usually tied on the top of the board. In fastening

ZZ ANTAL TATA TNT =U.” "

ATO

ZL £a
Yi lm

MI 22222 a

iy

FIG. 117. COOP FOR BROODING TURKEY, WHILE THE CHICKS ARE AT
LIBERTY.

the common style of board, the string is passed down
from one hole in front of the wing, close to the body,
and around under the wing and up through the other
hole, and is tied on top of the board. An ordinary
shingle is strong enough for most hens, but large gob-
blers require something stronger, and light barrel staves
are often used; a three-eighths-iach auger hole is then
necessary, but usually a gimlet is sufficient.

The young chicks must have green food. If they
cannot obtain plenty of grass, give chopped lettuce, dan-

300 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

delions, onion tops (these last sparingly), turnip tops, —

etc. Buckwheat, cracked corn and wheat may be given
at night, after they get large enough. Do not leave
food around. Feed each time only so much as will be
eaten up clean. After the first two weeks give sour
milk freely. After they can get insects, no other meat
than the milk will be necessary. The particular enemies
of the young turkeys are lice and diarrhoea, but both
may be conquered.

During the feathering period, the chicks must haye
plenty of bone- and feather-forming material. This is
supplied best in the form of finely chopped meat and
green bones. A good bone mill or cutter is indispensable

when much poultry
_déies is kept. See that
a reoé they have grit, in
4 the form of pound-
i : ed crockery, oyster
SOU

SS

seeo8| shells and clean
~~ gravel. The best

ita" peal Macon hia was small sea shells

from the sea coast of Connecticut. They cost about a
dollar per barrel.

In addition to the foregoing, the following hints

brought out by the most careful inquiry by the Rhode |

Island Experiment Station, of the methods pursued by }

the best turkey specialists in that State, are of interest: :

Little turkeys do best if kept and fed separate from
fowls and chickens. ‘They are weak and tender crea-
tures, and as they grow very fast, require an abundance
of nutritive and easily digested food, but it must not be
too concentrated. Too rich food, too much food that is
hard to digest, or a lack cf green food, will cause bowel
trouble. Little turkeys require food oftener than little
chickens. Feed little and often. Give cooked food

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 301

_until they grow enough to develop the red about the
head, or green food, like chopped onions and lettuce, if
they are confined to a pen. Remember that little chick-
ens thrive under confinement that would cause disease
and death among little turkeys. If the little turkeys
are cooped, remove them to fresh, dry ground frequently.
Dampness, lice and filth make short work of them.
Give them their food on clean surfaces.

Young turkeys should not be out m heavy showers

Bop es Sey
Te

until their backs are well covered with feathers. If they
get wet, they may die from chill, unless put in a warm
room to dry. Black and red pepper and ginger in the
food or drinking water aid them to overcome a chill,
and are of great value
on cold or damp days, |:
and are a preventive {y;
of bowel trouble in UP RNs
both old and young aS heRs
turkeys, Some find CALI TIMIIIIIEI St:
that yeu AS turkeys FIG. 119. SHED FOR SHELTERING LITTLE
do best when neither TURKEYS AT NIGHT.
they nor the hen is confined, providing they are put in a
pasture lot, high and dry, where the grass is short and
there are no trees. No more than three litters are
cooped in a five-acre lot.

At the Rhode Island Station it was found that confin-
ing the little turkeys at night prevents their being en-
tangled and lost in the long, wet grass, but it is detri-
mental to their welfare and should not be continued too
long. If possible, they should have full liberty where
the grass is short. Their nature is such that they need
cold air and a great deal of exercise. Restriction of lib-
erty, with light feeding, soon puts them out of condi-

tion; while full feeding, even with liberty, prevents
their taking full exercise, and causes disease of the di-
gestive organs, and they are lost or do not thrive,

IN POULTRY.

PROFITS

302

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TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 303

If the young birds have done well at six or eight
weeks, they begin to ‘‘throw the red,” as it is termed,
viz.: To develop the red carunculous formation about
the head and neck, so characteristic of the turkey. If
the turkey chicks be late hatched or weakly, it is re-
tarded sometimes another month. Should the growth,
from whatever cause, be checked when young, they will
never make jarge and vigorous birds. After they have
‘‘thrown the red,” the sexes can be distinguished, and
they are then termed poults.. They should not be al-
lowed to perch too early, but bedded down upon chaff,
leaves, etc., or they will have crooked breasts. Later
on, the fleshy appendage over the beak, and the billy or
horsehair-like tuft on the breast, make their appearance
in the inale birds, which, with tail erected and outspread,
and with the whole body inflated with pomp, can be easily
distinguished from their more somber sisters. At the
time of ‘‘throwing the red,” the young turkeys pass
through their chicken molt, another critical period in
their life. The birds lose their appetite and languish
several days. ‘They require now more stimulating food
and a larger meat diet. Being insectivorous, the best
range young turkeys can have is among shrubbery,
bushes and such like. If the weather be open and fine,
and the birds have a little extra care for a short time,
they become as hardy, as adults, as they were delicate
when young.

MARKING TURKEYS FOR IDENTIFICATION.
SAMUEL CUSHMAN.

As previously stated, turkeys do not thrive unless
allowed free range. If enclosed in a large park by woven
wire fence, cr kept on an island, they can be controlled,
but when given full liberty they roam over adjoining
farms. In a neighborhood where many keep them, the
different flocks are liable to meet, run together and get

304 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Front Toe Marks

SUGGESTIONS FOR MARKING TURKEYS BY THEIR FEET.

'

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 30d

‘pretty well mixed. If not separated immediately, they
may roost together, and roam as one flock the rest of the
season. The first night a flock fails to return to its
home roost, it should be looked up, separated from the
other flocks and driven home. ‘To do this is compara-
tively easy if immediately attended to, but each day they
run together makes their separation more difficult.

To readily distinguish their own birds, many raisers
try to have turkeys of a different color from any of those
of their neighbors. By breeding for several seasons
from a gobbler of a breed different from those kept near
by, the flock takes on characteristics of its own, and
each individual is readily distinguished. The White,
Buff, Slate and Red or Golden varieties are valued prin-
cipally for such use by growers. An additional advan-
tage is gained, because first crosses between pure breeds
are much more hardy, and some combinations are much
larger. The grading up of common stock by the re-
peated use of males of a pure breed also improves its
profitable qualities.

This means of identifying a flock is an excellent one,
but is not sufficient for all purposes, for it is often de-
sirable to distinguish the birds of a flock from each
other, the stock raised one year from that of another, or
that of a favorite hen or gobbler. Your turkeys may be
lost among similar colored birds, or they may be cap-
tured by thieves, and dressed before you get a clue to
them. If you havea private mark you can tell them,
dead or alive. A private brand is desirable, for many
reasons.

In turkey-raising sections, where there is a flock on
nearly every farm, a system of marking their feet is fol-
lowed. This is done by clipping off one or more of
their nails, or tips of their toes, as soon as the little tur-
keys are hatched. At this age they take very little no-
tice of the operation, and there is little or no bleeding.

20

306 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Each raiser has a different mark, and in some towns |
these are registered at the town clerk’s office, the same
as the brands of sheep or cattle. As a turkey has three
front and one back toes on each foot, or eight toes alto-
gether, many different brands may be made by clipping
the different toes. Fig. 121 shows some of them.

Six different marks may be made by clipping only one
front toe. Nine more by clipping but two front toes.
By clipping either the right or left back toe, the number
may be doubled or trebled. By chipping more toes,
combinations almost without number may be made, but
it will be rarely necessary to remove more than one to
two nails, even in a turkey-growing section.

Should mature turkeys thus marked be stolen and
dressed, they may be identified, as the marks cannot be
changed without showing the fresh mutilation. The
marks of little turkeys may be changed without detec-
tion, provided sufficient time passes to allow them to
heal before they are examined. ‘The more toes you clip,
the more difficult it is to change your marks.

Other marks, in addition to the foot marks, are some-
times necessary. The beak may be filed, holes punched
in the skin or web of the wing, or a loop of colored silk
fastened in the flesh where it cannot be seen. Although
you may feel that such a precaution is not necessary in
your case, probably if you follow this practice, you will
at some time be very glad that you have done so.

PRIZE ESSAY ON TURKEY CULTURE.
MRS. A. J. SEXSON, FURNAS COUNTY, NEBRASKA.

The first requisite to successful turkey growing is care-
fully selected stock for parent birds. Selections of the
best, for years, have produced the most improved and
profitable breeds of stock. The future stock depends
very much upon the parent birds, or their ancestry.
Repeated breeding from inferior birds makes inferiority

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 307

hereditary. After having faithfully tried the White,
the Wild Black and the Mammoth Bronze turkeys, I
prefer the latter for several reasons. ‘They have proven
hardier than the White, are equally strong, more gentle
and more easily handled than the Black, less apt to roam
far away and with proper care are ready for market at
an earlier age than either of the other varieties, and I
believe ure less liable to disease. After complying with
the first condition and having secured large, strong,
parent turkeys, at least one year old, see that they are
in the right condition for breeding.

Breeding fowls should not be overfat, as the offspring
of such fowls are less vigorous. If the hens are young
(late hatched) they require more food at breeding time,
as they are still growing and immature. If hens are old
they should have millet and clover, where it can be
grown, and less carbonaceous food in the latter part of
the season. ‘Too much corn will produce overfat tur-
keys, unless they have abundant exercise in insect hunt-
ing and plenty of green food. When the laying season
begins, usually in March, a watchful lookout for the
egos must be kept. It is natural for all turkeys to hide
the nest, but petting will do much toward keeping them
near the house. Hach egg should be gathered as soon
as laid and placed, small end down, on cotton or some
soft material and kept in a dry, cool, dark place. If
not used at once, they should be turned occasionally, to
prevent settling or adhering to the shell. As the eggs
are removed daily from the nest, it 1s better to return a
hen’s egg, until there are five or six in the nest, as a tur-
key is suspicious and easily discomfited. My turkeys
lay entirely in the grove near the house and arrange
their nests with skill themselves, my only task being to
protect them from natural wild enemies. The nest
should always be dry and large, and on the ground if
possible. Fifteen eggs are sufficient for a large hen,

308 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

and if small, thirteen will give better results. Four
weeks, and often thirty days, are required to hatch the
eggs. This makes a long period of rest for active Mrs.
Turkey, yet she must be compelled to do her work faith-
fully, consequently should have easy access to an abun-
dance of food and pure water, that she may not be forced
to remain too long a time off the nest to procure food,
thus allowing the eggs to chill.

CARE OF THE YounG.—About the twenty-seventh
day I throw a hard-boiled egg, mashed very fine, close
to the nest, not into, lest it adhere to an egg, rendering
the egg air-tight exactly over the beak of the young tur-
key, which would prevent his escape from the shell.
The mother turkey may eat this egg and the one given
the following day or two, if it is not needed for her
young, but in case she is hatching, she will use it for
the little ones, and this food will often save the first-
hatched birds. I have had the mother turkey refuse to
leave the nest for three days after the first eggs hatched.
If she leaves too soon, the remaining eggs may be placed
under hens, cr hatched by wrapping in wool and keep-
ing warm near the fire. Should an egg become broken
in the nest, the soiled eggs should be carefully washed .
immediately in warm, but not hot, water, and dried and
returned at once to the nest. ‘The trying time in the
life of turkeys is the first week, when they require con-
stant watching, then great care until they are eight
weeks old, or until the quill feathers are well started. ©
The producing of these feathers seems to weaken the
fowl, and exhausts the system, and therefore they need
especial treatment to counteract this difficulty.

For the first week, the mother and young must have
a warm place, free from draughts of air, free from
dampness, and where they will be undisturbed by other
fowls.

The first three weeks the food should consist of sweet

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 309

- milk (fresh from the cow is best), very hard-boiled eggs
and fine wheat-bread crumbs for the little ones, wheat,
corn and fresh water for the mother. Feed the mother
first and she will not take much of the egg and bread,
which is more expensive. During this time, if the
weather be warm and sunshiny, let the mother out dur-
ing the middle of the day, keeping her near the coop,
taking care to shut her in before sunset, as the dew is
harmful to the young turks. During the first week the
little ones are apt to get onto their backs, from which
position they cannot rise, and will die if allowed to thus
lie for any length of time. Care must be taken not to
place the pens near the hills of the small red or black
ants, as these are enemies to young turkeys. They not
only attack the head and kill the turkey, but if eaten,
will almost instantly choke them to death. |

The fourth week the food may consist of oatmeal,
sour milk curd in small quantities, cracked wheat and
scraps from the table, taking care that the scraps con-
tain nothing salt. Salt, salt meat, brine or salt fish will
kill them. After the eighth week, give mother and
brood their freedom. Feed only in the morning, and
this is not needful if they have access to grain fields.

If a turkey becomes sick, it should be isolated at once
from the others, to prevent spread of the disease. Land
over which diseased fowls wander will be contaminated
and infect other flocks. Turkeys require plenty of pure
water and must not be allowed to drink from stagnant
pools, as this may produce bowel troubles. It is useless
to doctor a very sick turkey—better to kill and bury
deep at once. Prevention is better than cure, and if the
following dose is given fortnightly, or even monthly,
throughout the year, to either turkeys or chickens, there
will be little necessity for cholera cure: Two ounces
cayenne pepper, two ounces sulphur, two ounces alum
and two ounces copperas. Mix all together and add

ee

310 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

two tablespoonfuls to eight quarts of corn meal, and wet
the mixture with sweet milk or warm water. This will
feed forty fowls.

One may profitably practice giving two broods of
young turkeys to one mother when hatched at the same
time, as one turkey can hover from twenty-five to thirty
little ones during the critical period in their lives, after
which they do not need much hovering. The other
mother, after being closely confined out of sight and
hearing of the little ones for one week, will quickly
mate and lay again. ‘This is very practicable and desir-
able when the first broods are hatched in May, or earlier,
as the second hatchings are often the best, only a little
later ready for market.

THE RHODE ISLAND SYSTEM.

Of late years Prudence Island has been one of the
leading turkey-producing sections. Over 800 turkeys
were raised there in 1892. George Tucker raises the
largest number, and probably produces more turkeys
than anyone in Rhode Island. In 1888 he raised 225
turkeys from 22 hens; in 1889, 306 from: 28 hens; in
1890, 340 from 30 hens; in 1891, 322 from 36 hens, and
in 1892, 425 from 35 hens. Previous to 1888 he had only
average success, but since that time, owing to an im-
provement in his management, he has had but very little
loss. He credits his present success to having gained a
clearer understanding of the requirements of turkeys, as
well as to having procured from Connecticut a very fine
gobbler, by means of which he increased the hardiness
of his flock. He has since been more careful in selecting
new blood.

He found that young turkeys that were kept near the
house or under the trees in the orchard, did not thrive;
many had swelled heads and soon died. On the other
hand, those placed on the highest and dryest pastures,

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. erilalt

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Se ercas

FIG. 122. PART WILD BLCOD BRONZE TURKEY.

This bird, Eureka, was from a thoroughbred Bronze hen, while his sire had one.
fourth wild blood. At sixteen months he weighed thirty-six pounds, and at
twenty-eight months tipped the seales at forty-eight and one-half pounds,
winning first prize both years at New Eneland and York State poultry snows.
The accession of wild blood only three removes back, even if it added noth.
ing te the great weight of this bird, unquestionably contributed to its vitality
and the brilliancy of its plumage,

Bile PROFITS IN POULTRY.

where there were no trees and but a light growth of
grass, did the best of all. He usually winters from —
twenty to thirty-five hen turkeys and two gobblers. One
gobbler is sufficient, but the second is kept in case one
should die or fail in any way. ‘The gobblers weigh from
thirty to thirty-five pounds and usually are kept two
seasons, and the hens two or three seasons, old hens be-
ing the surest breeders. They roost out in the trees
the year through, and but few are lost. In the spring a
sufficient number of nests are made for the hens by plac-
ing barrels by the walls and fences near the house and
barns, or by laying wide boards against the walls. In
them is placed leaves or cut straw. The turkeys readily
take possession of these nests, although some persist in
seeking out one of their own. ‘This is usually allowed,
unless a swampy location, or one too far away, 1s chosen,
when the nest is broken up and the hen induced to
choose another.

Sometimes several lay in the same nest. To prevent
this, a nest in which a turkey has commenced to lay is,
after she has deposited her egg, shut up for the remainder
of the day, to keep out intruders. When the crows eat
eggs laid in the nests that are far from the house, they
are frightened away by strings stretched across near the
nest. Glass nest eggs are used. Hges are gathered
daily, to prevent their being chilled, and that rats may
not get them. ‘They are kept in pans, having a few oats
in the bottom to prevent their rolling about. Hach pan-
ful holds two sittings, and is dated, that their age may
be known. Whena hen stays on the nest for two nights,
seventeen of the oldest eges are given her; the eggs laid
by her during the two days are not left in the nest. ‘The
nests are first shaped, so that they will not be so flat as
to allow the eggs to roll out, or so deep as to cause them
to be piled one upon another. The turkeys seem to do
better if not fed while sitting. ‘Those occupying nests

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. oe

FIG. 123. THE PRIZE BRONZE TURKEY.

This bird won the grand prize offered by the New York fanciers’ club some years
ago. He was two years old, weighed forty-five pounds, and was bred by
Sherman Hartwell, of Connecticut. With seven fine hens, he was bought by
William Simpson, and exhibited at numerous poultry shows in England, cap-
turing prizes in every case, and proving superior to any English-bred turkeys.
The fine picture we present ix from an instantaneous photograph by Smalls,
taken for the American Agriculturist, and drawn by Keeler,

O14: PROFITS IN POULTRY.

near together are looked after daily, to see that they
return to their own nests.

Mr. Tucker at first experienced some trouble in hay-
ing turkeys come off with a few young, those late in
hatching being left to their fate. This was partly over-
come by setting eggs of the same age. By feeding hens
with dough when the eggs are due to hatch, they are
also contented to stay on the nest longer. When the
turkeys are a couple of days old and seem quite strong,
they are placed in a basket, and, with the hen, removed
to a remote part of the farm. Triangular pens, made of
three boards, twelve feet long and one foot high, are
placed in the fields, where it is intended the flocks shali
stay until nearly grown. ‘They are not located near
together, lest the different flocks attract each other’s
attention. But four or five of the pens are put in a
twenty-acre field. The little turkeys or poults are put
in one of these pens with some dough, and the hen is
gently placed beside them. In releasing the hen, Mr.
Tucker takes pains to step quickly back toward the
wind, that, if frightened, she may go in a direction in
which the cries of her yonng may be heard and k-ring
her to them. The pens are removed to fresh ground
frequently. Care is taken that the pens are placed on
ground free from hollows that may hold water, for some
turkeys, when hovering their brood in such places, will
remain in them while they fill with rain and the brood
is drowned. After five or six days, when the young are
strong enough to follow the hen without being worn-out,
and have become so familiar with the attendant that
they will come when called, they are let ont of the pens
and allowed free range.

In feeding and looking after this number of turkeys,
the attendant, usually one of Mr. Tucker’s daughters,
has to walk about three miles to go the rounds. Until
four weeks old their food consists of corn meal mixed

TURKEYS ON THE FARM. 315

‘with sour milk, and they are given sour milk to drink,
no water being given them. When four weeks old,
cracked corn is mixed with the meal, and the quantity
is gradually increased, until at eight or ten weeks old
their feed consists of cracked corn moistened with sour
milk. Until June 1st they are fed three times each day.
From June Ist to July 15th they are fed twice a day.
After this Mr. Tucker used to give them no feed until
they commenced to come to the house, in the latter part
of September, when a little whole corn was given them
- daily, but of late years, he has thought they did not get
enough without it and has continued the feed the whole
season.

In November they are given all the corn they will eat.
They like northern white flint corn the best, fatten most

rapidly on it, and the quality of the flesh is also finer
when it is given. If fed new corn, they have bowel
trouble. Mr. Tucker usually gives old and new corn
mixed, for fattening. When the young turkeys get to
be the size of quails, two hens and their flocks usually
join forces and roam together until fall. In the fall the
sexes separate, the gobblers going together in one flock,
and the hens in another. About Thanksgiving, the lit-
ters hatched in the latter half of May weigh, gobblers
eighteen to twenty pounds, and hens ten to eleven
pounds each. Mr. Tucker does not care to raise second
litters. When he has them, it is because the hens have
stolen their nests. He has considerable loss among late
turkeys, and if such birds are kept over winter they get
sick more readily, and as disease spreads very quickly
among turkeys, he looks upon them as disease breeders.

The turkeys of the early litters that are lost generally
die during the first week, or in August, when two or
three months old. There are no foxes, weasels or skunks
on the island. Mr. Tucker prefers birds with short legs,
as they have the plumpest bodies. His turkeys are a

316 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

mixture. Many are of a light gray color, similar to
Narragansett turkeys. There are also buff, brown and
dark ones. He prefers the brown and gray to the black,
as they look better when dressed. He finds medium
weights sell best except at Thanksgiving, Christmas or
New Year’s.

CHAPTER XXVII.

DISEASES AND PESTS.

BY JAMES RANKIN, WITH ADDITIONS BY THE EDITOR.

Rovup.—This is a disease very prevalent among fowls,
and in its incipient stages sometimes makes its appear-
ance in the form of a cold or slight catarrh. These
troubles, if taken in time, are easily removed, but, if
neglected, often result in serious loss.

When fowls are confined in damp, filthy quarters, or
when cold drafts of air come in contact with the fowls,
or when they are kept in poorly ventilated buildings,
roup is a frequent visitor (See Fig. 109).

As this disease is very contagious, and often fatal, the
affected fowl should be removed at once and placed in
dry, warm quarters. ‘The dried mucous should be re-
moved from the nostrils; the passage to the roof of the
mouth thoroughly cleaned; the head and throat bathed
in kerosene twice each day. The bird should be fed on
stimulating and highly nutritious food. In the latter
stages of the disease, the discharges from the nostrils be-
come very offensive, the head begins to swell, and some-
times one eye and occasionally both are closed.

All this can usually be prevented if the birds are taken
in time, but when in this condition must be fed by hand,
with soft food mixed thin with milk and a little red
pepper dusted in. Unless a fowl is very valuable the
axe is the best remedy.

The severity of roup varies from that of a mere cold
1n the head, to cases which are like diphtheria in human
beings. In fact, there is doubtless more than one dis-
ease, but all are commonly known as roup. While some

(317)

oe)

al PROFITS IN POULTRY.
forms are easily cured, others are often fatal. But —
whether it be called roup, or distemper, or influenza, or
fowl diphtheria, the symptoms, in a general way, are
similar, likewise the treatment. It is claimed by some
that the diphtheritic form of roup can be given to hu-
man beings, and it is well to use care in handling the
sick fowls, and to keep them away from children.

Dr. V. A. Moore, of the U. 8. Department of Agri-
culture, recommends the following mode of prevention
and treatment :

(1) Fowls which have a discharge on any of the mu-
cous membranes of the head, or which have come from
flocks in which such a disease exists or has recently ex-
isted, should not be introduced among other poultry.

(2) If the disease appears in one or more fowls of a
flock, they should be immediately separated from the
well ones. If possible, the source of the infection should
be determined and removed. |

(3) The quite common practice of allowing fowls
from different flocks to run together during the day
should be discouraged.

(4) Care should be taken to avoid the possibility of
bringing the ae of the disease from affected flocks, in
the dirt or excrement which naturally
adheres to the shoes in walking through
an infected chicken yard. The same
care is necessary in the interchange of
working implements, such as shovels,

hoes, ete.
eae aaeeroer Mi icteydenuan any careful observer
that the fact is too often overlooked that fowls, owing
to their method of living, are more liable to infection
than other farm animals. This is especially true when
they are allowed to run at random, as they too fre-
quently are, picking their living from the garbage pile
and barnyards, or securing even more unwholesome food.

DISEASES AND PESTS, 319

’ There is little doubt that many so-called outbreaks of
contagious disease among fowls are brought about by
improper care. ‘The efficiency of these few suggestions
in reference to the prevention of this disease, is demon-
strated by the success of certain poultry raisers who ad-
here strictly to the teachings of sanitary methods.

The wide distribution, the large number of fowls af-
fected, and the usual chronic course of this disease ren-
der it one of the few poultry affections for which cura-
tive measures promise to be of practical value. Although
prevention is the safest of cures, when the disease is
once introduced as it is in a very large number of flocks,
the necessity for remedial treatment is apparent, and
where economy is to be considered should be recom-
mended. The practice sometimes followed of destroy-
ing all of the affected birds should be discouraged.
Although experiments have not been made to test the
efficiency of remedies already recommended, or to inves-
tigate the practicability of others, the testimony of many
practical poultry raisers is, as previously stated, to the
effect that the disease is amenable to treatment. -

The most certain of the known methods of treatment
is the local application of certain disinfectants, among
which a weak solution of carbolic acid appears to be the
most satisfactory. The fact that the lesions are so much
exposed renders the disease especially favorable for
local applications. The administration of mild stimu-
lants has also been recommended. In addition to the
medicinal treatment, it is of much importance that the
affected fowls be provided with proper food and kept in
dry, warm, and well-ventilated apartments.

If the disease has reached its third stage, it is fre-
quently necessary to remove the sloughed exudate before
the disinfectant is applied.

The following, recommended by another authority,
will be found to be excellent treatment for all stages of
the disease, combined with nutritious, soft food :

320 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Pills.—Sulphate of copper, half grain ; cayenne pepper,
one grain; hydrastine, half grain; copaiba, three drops;
Venetian turpentine, quarter section. In pill night and
morning.

Lotion.—Sulphate of copper, quarter ounce, dissolved
in a pint of rain water. To wash out the mouth and
nostrils, if required.

Cramp, though usually attributed to damp quarters,
is mainly the result of too highly concentrated food,
coupled with too little exercise. Who ever saw chicks
troubled with cramp when allowed to run out of doors,
even in warm rain and dew, so long as they had plenty
of grass and insects for dessert, and plenty of exercise
to stimulate action in their digestive organs ?

On the contrary, I was once called to a case where a
man had just lost two hundred fine chicks from this
trouble, and three hundred more a little younger were
just coming down with it, and this in a building the
floor of which was made of dry boards on which had
been spread an inch of dry sand. A uniform tempera-
ture of 70° had been preserved in the room night and —
day. These chicks had been carefully shielded from
dampness. This was in March.

I told him to clear away the snow from his building,
in front, turn his chicks out when pleasant, give them
plenty of boiled potatoes, chopped cabbage, feed on
bread crumbs and baker’s dust mixed with sour milk,
with a little animal food, and report the result to me.
At the end of a fortnight a letter from him reported two
of the cases dead and the rest as lively as crickets, every
symptom of the disease having disappeared.

BuMBLE-FOOT usually confines itsclf to the Asiatics
and heavier breeds. When it first appears, the bird
should be removed to dry quarters, with clean straw.
The skin over the inflamed part should be shaved away
a little, and caustic applied, which will nearly reduce

DISEASES AND PESTS. orl

the swelling. If that fails and the swelling becomes
large, soft, and full of pus, it should be opened the pus
removed and the wound thoroughly :

washed out with warm water, when « y % v Hi .
it will usually heal. Ze lil 4
ScaLty Lres.—Scabby leg, leg Ma
rot, scaly leg, elephantiasis, and +e
bumble-foot. This well-known dis- rs i iN
ease, under its various names, is Mea a
also due to a mite, the Sarcoptes ; 2

mutans. This mite affects most
birds, and has been known for some
considerable time. The creature ap-
parently only affects the legs of iN
birds, the similar disease of the ™ Ve
head being due in all casesto afun- SMhif
goid pest.

The diseased limbs become covered £
with rough, lumpy crusts, which /
can be removed with a blunt knife,
but unless the limb is moistened
With soft soap and warm water,,the pre. 195, nan cass on
removal leads to violent bleeding, SCALY LEG.
which should be avoided. This sarcoptic mite lives and
breeds under the scales of the feet and legs, gradually

raising them up and form-
-y ing bonsai them a white,
powdery mass. The crusts
formed are generally hol-
low, and contain a spongy
| mass internally, in the lower

FIG. 126. MITE wHIcH causes parts of which are to be

pene ag cndeniied). found the pests in all stages.

They sometimes produce such violent inflammation and

disease that the toe or affected parts drop off. The dis-

ease grows very slowly, some birds living over a year, but
21

——
=

ee

—

| Me

a i
i

B22 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

if neglected, leads to emaciation and death. The dis-
ease is contagious, but not severely. If fowls have plenty ©
of run they are less liable to contract these sarcoptic dis-
eases than when kept in confined spaces. Dorkings
seem comparatively free from this disease. Houdans
and Cochins seem very liable to it. The diseased growth
may readily be mistaken for the deformities seen on
birds’ wattles, but the cause is quite distinct. They
both, however, yield to the same treatment. Several
cases of so-called ‘‘ Bumble-Foot” that I have examined,
were due to the work of the mite, but others contained
no traces of sarcoptes.

Prevention and Remedies.—Isolation of patients and
disinfection of runs is most essential. Removal of
crusts without causing bleeding, and then the applica-
tion of either creosote (one part) and lard (twenty parts),
or balsam of Peru, will be found sufficient. Oil of tur-
pentine has still more definite results, I find, but the
dressed limbs must afterward be treated with sweet oi,
to allay subsequent irritation.

Gapres.—This disease is caused by small red worms
accumulating in the throat of the chick, and the disease

is usually «denizen of damp, filthy quar-.
=~ ters. The first thing is to thoroughly
ric. 127. carn Clean and disinfect the buildings and
forte) Naronatyards. Put the affected chicks into bar-
Stee: rels and circulate dry air-slaked lime freely
among them. Inhaling this will cause them to cough
and throw up the worms. Gapes may be prevented by
rubbing the neck with one part turpentine thoroughly
mixed with three parts lard.

Entomologist McCarthy, of the North Carolina Ex-
periment Station, recommends boiling salt water sprin-
kled on the ground as a disinfectant, and a teaspoonful
of turpentine and one of asafcetida in warm bran mash
for each twenty-five birds. A pill of camphor, the size

DISEASES AND PESTS. Bye

of a wheat grain, pushed down the throat, often gives
good results. One-third ounce of salicylic acid should
be added to each quart of the fowls’ drinking water.
By the fumigation treatment,
the sick birds are shut In a
large dry goods box, in which
is burned a mixture of equal
parts of turpentine, sulphur
and pine tar. After a quarter
of an hour, or as soon as the
fowls begin to be overcome by
the fumes, take them into the
open air.

FEATHER-EATING is more an
idle, vicious habit than a dis-
ease, superinduced by idleness
and close confinement, OY POS- the trachea pinned open. A, the
aibimacravime foranimal 100d. fic enters te pacnes from, the
Separate the offending bird, agus; G;thecutneck.
or the feather-eating will become general. Rub the
feathers near the picked places with powdered aloes
mixed with lard.

DiaARRH@A.—Dust a little powdered chalk and cay-
eune pepper into boiled milk, feed on soft food, and
withhold vegetables for a few days.

Whenever a fowl hangs its wings, and looks drooping,
let it be seen to at once, whether it appears purged, and
if so, give immediately, in a teaspoonful of warm water,
a teaspoonful of strong brandy or whisky saturated with
camphor. Repeat this the next morning, and in most
cases the disease will be checked ; care being, of course,
taken to give the invalid warmth and good shelter.
The best food is warm barley meal, or rice meal mixed
with lime water. If these. measures do not promptly
check the discharge, give the following powder, mixed
up with a little meal: Take powdered chalk, 5 grains;

FIG. 128. CHICK WITH GAPES,

an: PROFITS IN POULTRY.

cayenne pepper, 2 grains; powdered rhubarb 5 grains.
This scarcely ever fails when the case is not desperate.
T'APEWORMS.—'T'apeworms are very common in poultry,
‘and are sometimes so numerous as to close the passage,
or cause diarrhoea, sluggishness and fits. Not only
hens, but ducks, geese and turkeys are infected. The
worms do come to the fowls directly from the egg, but
the young of the tapeworms infest earthworms and other
insects which are eaten by poultry. When swallowed
by poultry, they develop into full growth. Young birds

EG. 129)

a, Piece of intestine of fowl, showing nodules, several small worms, and one
large worm. 6, Intestine, roughened by tapeworms. c, Interior of intestine,
showing wall thickened by action of worms; also part of a worm which has
penetrated the lining.

suffer more than old ones, and more in wet seasons than
in dry. If numerous tapeworms are present in the in-
testine of young or old fowls, a more or less extensive
intestinal catarrh develops, corresponding to the greater
or less number of parasites present.

The intestinal catarrh shows itself, especially in chiek-
ens and geese, as follows: The sick animals become
emaciated, although the apvetite is not especially dis-
turbed. At times the appetite is even increased. ‘The —

DISEASES AND PESTS. 325

droppings are thin, contain considerable yellow slime,
and are passed in small quantities but at short intervals.
The poultry raiser must direct his attention to these
thin, slimy, and often bloody droppings, for if any treat-
ment against the tapeworms is to be undertaken, this
must be done as early as possible. In observing the
droppings, it should be noticed whether tapeworm seg-
ments or eggs are present. ‘The eggs can be seen, of
course, only with the microscope. ‘The birds become

FIG. 130. TAPEWORM FROM A TURKEY.

listless and drooping, with ruffled feathers. An unusual
desire for cold water is considered a symptom.

The best method for the farmer to follow is to kill
one of the sick chickens, when he suspects tapeworms,
and to cut out the intestine; he should then open the
intestinal tract from the gizzard to the anus, in a bowl
of warm water, and look for the tapeworms.

In the line of prevention, chickens will be less likely
to become infected if not allowed to roam until the sun
is well up and the ground dry. To prevent spread of
the worms, destroy the manure of infected fowls, or use
it where it can dono harm. Sulphuric acid and water,
or quicklime, will destroy the eggs.

326 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Treatment.—First, separate the fowls; second, destroy
infected droppings. ‘he chief drugs used against tape-
worms are: Extract of male fern, turpentine, powdered
kamala, areca nut, pomegranate root bark, pumpkin
seeds and sulphate of copper (bluestone). According to
Ziirn, powdered areca nut is the best tapeworm remedy
for fowls, but he calls attention to the fact thet turkeys
are unfavorably affected by this medicine. He advises
the administration of powdered areca nut in doses of 2
to 3 grams (30 to 45 grains), mixed with butter and
made into pills.

Liquid extract of male fern is very effectual against
tapeworms. Hutcheon advises a teaspoonful for young
ostriches three to four months old, to a tablespoonful
for a full-grown ostrich; it may be made into a pill
with flour. The dose recommended by the department
of agriculture is from one to three tablespoonfuls of tur-
pentine, according to the size of the chicken.

The illustration, Fig. 129, shows a form of tapeworm
disease sometimes mistaken for tuberculosis. The nod-
ules in the intestines look like the tubercles of the other
disease, but if the surface of the intestines is carefully
washed the small worms can be seen.

CHOLERA is a terrible scourge—the worst with which
the poultry grower has to contend. It not only deci-
mates, but often destroys whole flocks. It is far more
prevalent in the West and South than in the Hast and
North. There is no doubt but that low, marshy |
grounds, and damp, filthy quarters, will encourage the
disease and predispose fowls to its ravages. In careful
experiments by Prof. Pasteur, of the London interna-
tional medical college, it was found that the blood, body
and excrements of the diseased fowl were filled with
minute organisms. One drop of this blood introduced
into a little chicken soup will speedily affect it in the
same manner, and so on even to the hundredth depart-

DISEASES AND PESTS. 32%

ure, and one drop of the last dilution is equally as deadly
as the original drop of blood from the diseased fowl.

The disease first makes its appearance in the urates,
giving them a yellowish cast. These discharges, as the
disease advances, gradually become more frequent and
copious, and the bird becomes weaker, sometimes living
several days, and often dying in twenty-four hours.
Fowl cholera is not only the most fatal, but the most
contagious of all poultry diseases.

Nea as every part of these excrements is filled with
the microscopic life of the cholera, it will be seen how
necessary it is to thoroughly clean and disinfect the
building and confine the affected fowls by themselves.

In an experiment, some time since, a number of dis-
eased fowls were confined by themselves, and fed on soft
food into which was mixed a small quantity of medicine
composed of equal parts of asafcetida, hypophosphate
of soda and saffron, ground together, a little cayenne
pepper being sprinkled in the food also. The drinking
water was treated with the Douglas mixture. ‘Three-
fourths of the fowls thus treated recovered. In another
lot, simply confined and fed without any treatment, the
disease proved fatal in every case.

The great point is to avoid contagion. Deodorize
everything in connection with the buildings, and have
all infected matter burned. ‘This alone will destroy the
minute organism of fowl cholera.

BLACKHEAD OF TuRKEYS.—An infectious disease of
the intestines and liver, commonly known as blackhead
of turkeys, has prevailed very extensively in Rhode
Island, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and probably also
in other turkey-raising districts, although the disease
has been scientifically investigated in the New England
sections only. The disease is caused by a small parasite,
which first attacks the cecum or pronged part of the
lower bowel, causing it to become thickened, enlarged,

Oxo PROFITS IN POULTRY.

and full of sores. Next, the liver becomes spotted, and
covered with round, yellowish patches. Young turkeys
are attacked. Many die in July and August and in
the fall. ‘The symptoms are, diarrhoea, roughened feath-
ers, and purplish or ‘‘black” head. The disease spreads
from one bird to another. .

Dr. Theobald Smith, of the U. 8S. Bureau of animal
industry, recommends the disinfection of the coops and
other structures designed to give shelter to turkeys.
The following disinfectants are strong enough to kill
spores of bacteria :

(a) Corrosive sublimate (mercuric chloride), one ounce
in about eight gallons of water (one-tenth of one per
cent). The water should be put into wooden tubs or
barrels, and the powdered sublimate added to it. The
whole must be allowed to stand for twenty-four hours,
so as to give the sublimate an opportunity to become
entirely dissolved. Since this solution is poisonous, it
should be kept covered up and well guarded. It may
be apphed with a broom or mop, and used freely on all
woodwork. Since it loses its virtue in proportion to the
amount of dirt present, all manure and other dirt should
be first removed before applying the disinfectant. The
manure should be covered with lime.

(2) Chloride of lime, five ounces to a gallon of water
(four per cent). This should be applied in the same way.

(c) The following disinfectant is very serviceable. It
is not poisonous, but quite corrosive, and care should be
taken to protect the eyes and hands from accidental
splashing: Crude carbolic acid, one-half gallon; crude
sulphuric acid, one-half gallon.

These two substances should be mixed in tubs or glass
vessels. The sulphuric acid is very slowly added to the
carbolic acid. During the mixing a large amount of
heat is developed. The disinfecting power of the mix-
ture is heightened if the amount of heat is kept down

ra
c©

DISEASES AND PESTS. oF

by placing the tub or glass demijohn containing the car-
bolic acid in cold water while the sulphuric acid is being
added. The resulting mixture is added to water in the
ratio of one to twenty. One gallon of mixed acids will
thus furnish twenty gallons of a strong disinfecting so-
lution, having a slightly milky appearance.

(d) Ordinary slaked lime, thongh it does not possess
the disinfecting power of the substances given above, is
nevertheless very useful, and should be used more par-
ticularly on infected soil.

Lic— anp Mirrs.—These pests are a great trouble to
the poultry grower, and need incessant vigilance on his
pare Uhere: arel two! ee)
kinds of lice with which —YG.28 32
he has to contend. The _
larger, or body, lice find
their home among the
feathers of the fowl. She
will usually rid herself
of them when provided
with a proper dust bath. =
The smaller parasite, OY FIG. 131. COMMON KINDS OF HEN LICE.
the little red mite, is the . Pallidum. G. Abdominalis.
most troublesome. When once they have obtained pos-
session, the only remedy is to fumigate thoroughly with
burning brimstone. No living thing can withstand that.
Then whitewash the whole inside of the building.

As in everything else, so here, a little prevention is
worth a great deal of cure. These little mites originate
on the perches, and are never on the fowl’s body except
to feed. Judging from sad experience, they have as-
tonishing facilities for the reproduction of their species.

It is easy to avoid the red mites when you know how.
Procure for perches planed spruce joists, two by three
inches in size, and as long as required. Cover them
with hot coal tar, and you will have no lice for at least

330 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

one year. I have perches that were so painted three
years ago; they have been in constant use ever since,
and there has been neither tar nor lice on them since.
Every one knows that this tar is an odoriferous com-
pound. It is excessively obnoxious to the lice. Kero-
sene or diluted carbolic acid applied to the roosts and
crevices 1s a good remedy.

An insect which almost makes life a burden to the
southern poultry keeper is the nest bug, a near relative
of the bed bug. It commonly infests nests, and will

~e often compel sitting hens to leave
their eggs. As will be seen by the
smaller illustration, it is an insect of
considerable size. The treatment is
*\ the same as for the small ticks, or
mites. Kerosene is a good remedy,
also insect powder and tobacco dust.
Burn old nests.

The lice may be found, by careful
examination, especially about the
head and neck and under the joints

of wings and legs. Whenever a fowl
7x appears out of sorts, it is safe to sus-
FIG. 132. Nest Buc. pect lice. A great deal of apparent
ain, insect very trouble. sickness is merely lice. Young chick-
ural size and magnified. ens are most: dangerously “aikeereus
They mope about, will not eat, bcedies are small, thin
and stunted, they peep a great deal, sometimes lose their
feathers, or waste away and die. Large lice on the head
or throat often cause the apparently mysterious death of
chicks. They hide at the base of the feathers, and are
not easily seen. Most chicks raised by hens are some-
what infested. A single big head louse is enough to
make trouble for a chick.

Mr. E. W. Parker, writing in one of the poultry

papers, gives a good idea of how indifferent one may be,

DISEASES AND PESTS. Sal

He says: ‘“‘In July and August especially (but at all
times of the year) ice abound more than at any other
time, and chicks will become infested with them unless
great care is taken. Many persons wonder why their
young chicks droop and die, mope around for a week or
two, all the time getting thinner and weaker, finally be-
come unable to stand, and die—these persons claiming
all the time that ‘lice is not the cause of it,’ because
they have searched under the wing for the red or yellow

\
\

FIG. 1388. THE TICK, MITE, OR SPIDER LOUSE.
a, Adult; 6, tarsus; c, mouth parts; d and e, young—all enlarged.

louse, or the head for the large head louse, and in fact
have looked them from top to bottom for parasites and
have found none. JI wonder if they have ever looked on
the throat, or at the side below the ears, for the large
head louse. J wonder if it entered into the brain of
such breeders that the head louse could destroy the life
of chicks from two to six weeks old by sucking the life-
blood from the throat and under the head. If it has
not, I can tell them that such is the case, and I say
without fear of contradiction that when the chick ap-

Bey PROFITS IN POULTRY.

pears weak, growing weaker and thinner, the skin seems
to shrink upon the body, and there is a slimy discharge
from the body, and when the chick eats it is usually
with difficulty, and as the supposed disease advances it
seems almost impossible for the chick to swallow, finally
refusing to eat. When any or all of these symptoms ap-
pear, then examine the under part of the head and the
throat and at the sides for the head louse, and nine
times out of ten he will be found snugly at home among
the down or sprouting feathers; then apply two-thirds
elycerine, one-third carbolic acid,and five times as much
water as the above mixture.”

A few general measures will answer for all kinds of
lice. ‘To smoke them out is a very thorough way, if the
house is tight enough to hold the fumes. Where the
house can be made tight an excellent plan is to fumigate
' it with pure carbon bisulphide once every two months.
This is done by simply pouring the bisulphide into an .
open saucer, using about one pound for each one thou-
sand cubic feet of space in the house. Close the house
tightly, and leave for at least twelve hours. Bisulphide
of carbon is very explosive, and must not be brought
near a fire or ight. It is very sure, and will kill any
insect. Besides sulphur, already mentioned, tobacco
stems are very commonly used for smoking. The smoke
must be very dense, and should remain in the house at
least twelve hours. If the first smoking does not kill
all, repeat the operation. Another good way is to drench
the roosts with kerosene or hot water, followed by white-
washing, and the use of tar on the ends of the poles and
wherever they come in contact with supports. The ad-
dition of four ounces of crude carbolic acid to the gallon
of whitewash increases its efficiency for this purpose.
Repeated applications may be necessary, but due atten-
tion to reaching all points to which the pests resort will
keep the nuisance in check at least. For the red mites

DISEASES AND PESTS. 333

much the same treatment is needed as for common lice.
Clear the house, then spray well with kerosene or kero-
sene emulsion, taking pains to reach the cracks; thor-
oughly drench the roosts with hot water or kerosene,
benzine or gasoline, whitewash the house, or dust with
earbolated lime, and then daub the ends of the roosts,
where they come in contact with supports, with coal
tar, so the mites will have to cross it to reach the fowls.

Doveuas’s Tonic Pouttry Mixture.—Take sulphate
of iron, half a pound; sulphuric acid, 1 oz; pure soft
water, 2 gallons. Mix, and give to the fowls by adding
one teaspoonful to each pint of their drinking water.

ParrisH’s CHEmicaAL Foop (An English tonic).—
Protosulphate of iron, 10 dr.; phosphate of soda, 12 dr.;
phosphate of lme, 12 dr.; phosphoric acid, glacial, 20
dr.; carbonate of soda, 2 scruples; carbonate of potassa,
1 dr.; muriatic acid and water of ammonia, each a suffi-
cient quantity ; powdered cochineal, 2 dr.; water suffi-
cient to make 20 fluid ounces; sugar, 3 Ibs. troy; oil of
orange, 10 minims.

CHOLERA DISINFECTANT MixtTuRE.—Mix sulphuric
acid, 8 ounces; pure soft water, 8 gallons. This dilute.
Sulphuric acid is a good preparation whenever the houses
or grounds need purifying after an infectious disease.

304 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

N
\y

KI! iP Meirg My”
Fin y
De ui, ey“

FIG. 134. TYPES OF FEATHERS.
1. Striped, 2. Laced. 3, 4. Spangled. 5. Pencilled, 6,7, 8. Mottled,

peers =f wins

CHAPTER XXVIII.
POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR.

Beard—A bunch of feathers under the throat of some
breeds, as Houdans.

Breed—Any variety of fowl presenting distinct char
acteristics.

Brood—Family of chickens cared for by one hen.

Broody—Desiring to sit or incubate.

Carriage—Bearing, attitude, or ‘‘style.”

Carunculated—Covered with fleshy protuberances, as on
the neck of a turkey cock.

Chick—A newly hatched fowl. Used only while but a
few weeks old.

Chicken—This word is often applied to any age indefi-
nitely until twelve months old.

Clutch—This term is applied both to the batch of eggs
sat upon by the fowl, and also to the brood of chick-
ens hatched therefrom.

Cockerel—A young cock.

Crop—The bag or receptacle in which food is stored
before digestion. Can be easily felt in any fowl after
feeding.

Cushion—The mass of feathers over the tail end of a
hen’s back, covering the tail; chiefly developed in
Cochins.

Deaf-ears—The folds of skin hanging from the true ears;
same as earlobes. They vary in color, being blue,
white, cream-colored or red.

Dubbing—Cutting off the comb, wattles, etc., so as to
leave the head smooth and clean.

Har lobes—Same as deaf-ears.

(335)

336 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

I‘ace—The bare skin around the eye.

Flights—The primary feathers of the wing, used in flying,
but tucked under the wing out of sight when at rest.

Fluffi—Soft, downy feathers about the thighs, chiefly
developed in Asiatics.

Furnished—Assumed the full characters. When a cock-
erel has obtained full tail, comb, hackles, etc., as if
adult, he is said to be furnished.

Gills—This term is often applied to the wattles, and
sometimes more indefinitely to the whole region of the
throat.

Hackles—The peculiar narrow feathers on the neck of
fowls, also found in the saddle of the cock. In the
latter case they are called ‘‘saddle” hackles or feath-
ers (See saddle below). Hackles used alone always
refer to the neck feathers.

Hen-feathered, or henny—Resembling a hen in the ab-
sence of sickles, or hackle feathers, end in plumage
generally.

Hock—The knee or elbow saint of the leg.

Keel—Sometimes used to denote breastbone.

Leg—In a live fowl this is the scaly part, or shank. In
the bird dressed for the table, on the contrary, the
term refers to the joints above.

Leg feathers—The feathers projecting from the outside
of the shanks, in some breeds, as Cochins.

Mossy—Confused or indistinct in the markings.

Pea comb—A triple comb, resembling three small combs
in one, the middle being highest.

Pencilling—Small markings or stripes over a feather.
These may run either straight across, as in Hamburgs,
or in a crescentic form, as in Partridge Cochins.

Poult—A young turkey.

Primaries—The flight feathers of the wings, hidden
when the wing is closed, being tucked under the visi-
ble wing composed of the ‘‘secondary” feathers. Usu-

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR. BB i

ally the primaries contain the deepest color all over
the body, except the tail; great importance is attached
to their color by breeders.

Pullet-—A young hen. ‘The term is not properly appli-
cable after Dec. 31st of the year in which a bird is
hatched, though often used during the early months
of the next year.

Rooster—An American term for a cock.

Saddle—The posterior part of the back, reaching the
tail, in a cock, answering to the cushion in a hen;
often, however, applied to both sexes, cushion being
more restricted to a great development, as in Cochins;
‘“saddle”? may be applied to any breed.

Secondaries—The quill feathers of the wing which show
when the bird is at rest.

Self-color—A uniform tint over the feathers.

Shaft—The stem or quill of a feather.

Shank—The scaly part of the leg.

Sickles—The top curved feathers of a cock’s tail. Prop-
erly only applied to the top pair, but sometimes used
for one or two pairs below, which can hardly be called
tail coverts.

Spangling—The marking produced by each feather hay-
ing one large spot or slash of some color different
from the ground. |

Spur—The sharp, offensive weapon on the heel of a cock.

Squirrel-tailed—The tail projecting in front of a perpen-
dicular line over the back.

Stag—Another name for a young cock, chiefly used by
game fanciers.

Strain—A race of fowls which, having been carefully
bred by one breeder or his successors for years, has
acquired individual character of its own which can be
more or less relied upon.

Symmetry—Perfection of proportion ; often confounded
with carriage, but quite distinct, as a bird may be

Q2

338 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

nearly perfect in proportion, and yet ‘‘carry” him-
self awkwardly.

Tail coverts—The soft, glossy, curved feathers at the
sides of the bottom of the tail, usually the same color
as the tail itself.

Tail feathers—The straight and stiff feathers of the tail
only. The top pair are sometimes slightly curved,
but they are nearly always, if not quite, straight, and
are contained inside the sickles and tail coverts.

Thighs—The joint above the shanks, the first joint
clothed with feathers. The same as the drumstick in
dressed fowls.

Topknot—Same as crest.

Trio—A cock or cockerel and two hens or pullets.

Under-color—The color of the plumage seen when the
surface has been lifted. It chiefly depends on the
down seen at root of every feather. |

Vulture hocks—Stiff projecting feathers at the hock
joint. The feathers must be both stiff and projecting
to be thus truly called and condemned.

Wattles—The red depending structures on each side of
the base of the beak. Chiefly developed in the male
Sex.

Web—This term is indefinite, expressing a flat and ‘ia
structure. The web of a feather is the flat or plume
portion ; the web of the foot, the flat skin between
the toes; of the wing, the triangular skin seen when
the member is extended.

Wing bar—Any line of dark color across the middle of
the wing, caused by the color or marking of the feath-
ers known as the lower wing coverts.

Wing bow—The upper or shoulder part of wing.

Wing butts—The corners or ends of the wing. The
upper ends are more properly called the shoulder
butts, and are thus termed by game fanciers. The

. lower, similarly, are called the lower butts.

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR. 339

Wing coverts—The broad feathers covering the roots of
the secondary quills.

CALENDAR OF POULTRY WORK.

January.—Make poultry houses as warm and dry as
possible, stopping cracks and crevices, taking care to pre-
vent drafts on the birds at night. Fowls should have a
warm feed all through the cold weather, at least once a
day. Feed cut bone two or three times a week. Sort
the birds closely, and don’t keep any surplus. Study
the mating, so that no time will be lost at breeding sea-
son. When whole grain is fed at night, it is well to
warm it in the oven. Plenty of grit is important.
Hang up cabbages for green food. Feed some meat and
cut bone twice a week. Keep the incubators running
for early broilers. Keep brooders in repair.

February.—Protection against cold is important this
month, but the fowls should have exercise In an open
shed attached to the house. A curtain should be at-
tached, to be let down stormy days. Warm mash for
breakfast, green bone and meat should be continued.
Mating should be finished by this time. Select only the
vigorous birds. Weaklings, however well marked, are
useless in the breeding pen. Feed plenty of bone and
meat to the breeders, and make them exercise, in order
to secure fertile eggs. Droppings should not. be allowed
to collect more than a day or two. Keep the floor coy-
ered with litter. This is the worst month for roup,
which can be prevented by dry, warm houses, with no
drafts upon the fowls, especially at night.

March.—Feeding is much the same as during the pre-
ceding month, but rather less’ whole corn should be
given. Feed more wheat instead. If the breeding pens
have been made up at least four weeks before, eggs may
now be set for early chicks. Chicks hatched the last of
March will not usually molt before winter, and will he*

340 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

the best winter layers. Large breeds should be hatched
early, to secure laying pullets before winter. Small
breeds wil] do well enough, hatched the last of April.
See that the hens are set properly on the nests, carefully
made, and guard against lice on sitting hens. Watch
the hens, to be sure they attend to business. Fix up
the brooders and coops for the chickens. Lath fences
for the fowls can be nailed together indoors in stormy
weather. 7

April.—Feed the laying hens plenty of egg-making
food, such as meat and cut bone. ‘The early chicks
should have increasing attention. eed them often, but
only what they will eat up clean. Supply with fresh
water, fresh charcoal, fine, coarse grit or fresh sand. A
good food for young chickens consists of one pound corn
meal, one-half pound middlings, one and one-half pounds
ground meat, two ounces bone meal and a very little
salt, mixed with milk or water, and baked, then fed
in crumbs every two hours. After the first week, three
or four times a day will be often enough to feed, except
when finishing for market. Hens which prove good
mothers may be given two broods of the same age, join-
ing the broods at night.

May.—The early chicks should be pushed with plenty
of wholesome food and a goed variety. They should be
given some soft feed each day. Give them as free a
range as possible. Cracked corn should be fed with care
to very young chicks. A ration of bones and meat once
a week will be sufficient for chicks. Hatching may be
continued for the smaller breeds, but the Asiatics and
other large breeds should be all out before this month.
Lice may give some trouble this month, and should be
fought with vigor. Provide a dust bath. Rub fresh
insect powder upon sitting hens. Whitewash and fumi-
gate the houses. Kerosene the roosts. Don’t give the
chicks soured food, |

POULTRY DiCTIONARY AND CALENDAR. o41

June.—During the hot weather some kind of shade
should be provided. It is almost as important as sun-
shine in winter. The food need not be as hearty as in
cold weather. Green stuff must be abundant; bran,
ground oats and wheat should be the staple food.
Small breeds may be fed considerable corn. larly
chickens should be pushed rapidly, and the surplus may
be marketed at this time. Separate cockerels from pul-
lets when finishing for market. Be sure that the water
supply is abundant and clean.

July.—This is a trying month, on account of the heat.
If there is no natural shade, make it by growing a crop,
such as corn or sunflowers. Plenty of water is desirable.
A little tincture of iron in the drinking water is’ an ex-
cellent tonic. Rusty nails will give some iron tonic.
The old hens not needed for breeding should be sold.
Moye the small coops often and dig over the permanent
runs.

August.—Some attention is needed to bring the hens
through the molting season in good condition. Feed
considerable lean meat, cut bone, wheat and oats, with
a little linseed meal in the morning mash. Plenty of
green food is necessary if the fowls are kept shut up.
Continue a little iron tonic with the drinking water.
Continue to sort out the larger chicks and market them.
Don’t sell those needed for breeding. Refuse apples
and vegetables will be appreciated by the hens. Hens
which get through molting quickest and in best condi-
tion are the most vigorous, and should be kept for
breeders.

September.—Buildings should be cleaned thoroughly,
whitewashed and made ready for cooler weather. The
laying stock may be moved to winter quarters and pushed
for egg production. Give a variety of grain diet ard
whatever green food can be had. Feed cut bones twice
a week, Birds for exhibition should be made ready a

342 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

week or two before sending to the show. Accustom
them to being kept in the exhibition coop, and get them
as tame as possible. Look them over carefully to see
that they are in condition to appear their best. Feed
waste vegetables and fruit to the hens.

October.—Cool weather will bring on disease, if care
is not taken. ‘The most common disease is roup, which
is caused by dampness and draft in almost every case,
unless caught from other fowls. Drafts which cause a
current of air to blow over the fowls at night are espe-
cially dangerous. At the first signs of disease, separate
the sick fowls from the well, place in a warm room, and
feed carefully. The iron tonic in the drinking water is
excellent. Layinastock of cheap vegetables for winter use.

November.—If not done before, the houses should be
put in order for the winter. Even on cold days, the
hens should be turned into the scratching shed for exer- |
cise. The great secret of eggs in November, is to make
the hens work for their food. Plenty of litter should
cover the entire floor of the scratching shed. Any kind
of litter will do. ‘The grain should be scattered over the
litter. Hens that are not through molting at this time
will be worthless, and might as well be sold, if kept
merely for the value of the eggs. Use as much green
food as possible, and feed boiled vegetables with the
grain mash in the morning. November is. a critical
month, and if the pullets do not begin to shell out now,
it will be a hard winter for their owner. ;

December.—Examine your own methods carefully,
and see what can be improved. ‘The skill of a poultry
grower is shown, in securing eggs during cold weather.
If the fowls don’t lay, blame yourself and not the vari-
ety. There is real satisfaction and plenty of profit in
December eggs. Everybody wants them and will pay a
good price. ‘There is no egg producer like cut bone and
a little fresh meat fed to April-hatched pullets,

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR. 343

KEEPING EGGS.

Hundreds of rules have been given for putting up
cheap eggs, to be kept until prices rise in late autumn
and winter. The most careful experiments on record
have been made by German scientists.

After eight months of preservation, 400 eggs, divided ,
into 20 different parcels for that many methods of exper-
iment, were examined, with heterogeneous results.
Upon opening for use the eggs presented the following
results, according to the parcels originally numbered :
1. Eggs put up for preservation in salt water were all
bad; not rotten, but uneatable, the salt having pene-
trated into the eggs. 2. Wrapped in paper, 80 per cent
bad. 3. Preserved in a solution of salicylic acid and
glycerine, 80 per cent bad. 4. Rubbed with salt, 70
per cent bad. 5. Preserved in bran, 70 per cent bad.
6. Provided with a covering of paraffin, 70 per cent bad.
7. Varnished with a solution of glycerine and salicylic
acid, 70 per cent bad. 8. Put in boiling water for 12 to
15 seconds, 50 per cent bad. 9. Treated with a solution
of alum, 50 per cent bad. 10. Put in a solution of sali-
cylic acid, 50 per cent bad. 11. Varnished with water
glass, 40 per cent bad. 12. Varnished with collodion,
40 per cent bad. 13. Covered with lac (probably shel-
lac varnish), 49 per cent bad. 14. Varnished with
sward, 20 per cent bad. 15. Preserved in wood ashes,
20 per cent bad. 16. Treated with boric acid and water
glass, 20 per cent bad. 17. Treated with manganate of
potash, 20 per cent bad. 18. Varnished with vaseline,
all good. 19. Preserved in lime water, all good. 20.
Preserved in a solution of water glass, all good.

Water Glass is a soluble silicate of soda, and makes
the shell air-tight. Use one part, by measure, of water
glass to ten parts water. It appears to be the best of
the methods. Before boiling eggs which have been kept

344 PROFITS IN PO. LTRY.

by water glass, the shell should be pricked with a strong
needle, to prevent bursting. Water glass may be ordered
of druggists. Lime water ranks next to, water glass.
The main objection is the slightly musty flavor imparted
by the lime. To pickle eggs, dissolve one pint of fresh
slaked stone lime and a pint of salt in three gallons of
water by boiling. Drain off, and it is ready for use.
Put the eggs in carefully when fresh, so as not to crack
the shells. Hggs pickled in this way will keep well, and
are fully as good as fresh eggs for frying or boiling, but
not quite so good for cooking purposes. Hggs may be
kept in a lime solution in a butter firkin as well asa
barrel. The keg may be kept in a cool place. It is
best to put the eggs all in at a time, making a fresh so-
lution of lime when fresh eggs are put in, so that the
fine particles of the lime will coat the eggs and exclude
the air.

National Butter, Cheese and Egg Association’s Method.
Take one bushel best stone lime, eight quarts of salt,
twenty-five ten-quart pails of water. Slake the lime
with a portion of the water; then add the balance of
the water and the salt. Stir a few times and let it
settle. Fill the cask or vat to a depth of eighteen inches,
and put in a layer of eggs about a foot deep. Now pour
over them some of the settlings that is a little milky in
appearance. The object of this is to have the fine lime
particles drawn into the pores of the shell to seal them.
Continue this operation till the vessel is full. Put only
fresh eggs in, if you would take good ones out. Eggs
may also be preserved by the use of salicylic acid, which
may be obtained of druggists. Dissolve a tablespoonful
in a gallon of boiling water. Fill a stone jar or clean
cask with eggs, and pour this solution over them after
it has cooled. Keep the eges covered with the solution, —
and cover the cask to keep out dust. If kept in a cool
place, this preparation will be good for three months.

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR. 345

No metal of any kind should come in contact with the
salicylic acid soJution. Eggs preserved by either method
must be used soon after being taken from the pickle.

Loomis Recipe.—To thirty gallons of soft water, add
five pounds salt and thirteen pounds lime; stir it a little
every hour or two for one ‘day. Now take one-half
pound borax, one-half pound cream tartar, one-half
pound saltpeter, one and one-half ounces alum, pulverize
and mix thoroughly, dissolve in two gallons of boiling
water, and add to the other lot. Let stand till settled,
pour off all the clear solution and put the eggs in that.
I have tried this method and know it to be good.

Borax.—Hight ounces of borax, two ounces common
salt, six ounces boracic acid, thoroughly pulverized, is
an old recipe for preserving eggs that has been exten-
sively advertised. The directions say: Put the above
ingredients in a jar, stir thoroughly, and stand one week;
then take one pound of the mixture and dissolve in five
galions of water; have the solution boiling hot, and dip
a shallow wire basket filled with eggs into the boiling
liquid so that the eggs will be covered, and out again as
soon as possible. Pack the eggs thus treated in barrels
or patent boxes, and turn packages upside down twice a
week to prevent the yolk from settling to one side, and
the eggs may be kept perfectly fresh for a reasonable
length of time. The same liquid may be used over and
over again until it is all absorbed. This recipe is for
100 dozen of eggs. ;

Lime Recipe.—My wife has just used in custards
(which were very nice) the last of eggs put down sixteen
months ago. I slaked one pound of lime slowly in one
gallon of boiling water, and added a spoonful of salt.
The eggs were put in a pork barrel (a butter firkin will
not do), and the solution poured in until it covered
them. They kept perfectly.—[J. 8, R., Gloucester,
Mass.

346 PROFITS IN POULTRY.

Lime and Brine.—It is a very easy matter to preserve
egos, by using a mixture of lime water and brine. I
sell all my winter-laid eggs, except occasionally a thin-
shelled one, and still have an abundance of hen fruit to
use in the family whenever needed during the period of
high prices. Equal quantities of salt and lime, and a
small quantity of cream of tartar, are put into a water- |
tight barrel or vessel, and water is poured in until the
mixture is of the right consistency. If the receptacle
for the eggs and the preparation is not perfectly water-
tight, it will be necessary to make a very thick, pasty
mixture, but if water-tight a thin liquid will do. I use
one-fourth pound of cream tartar to five pounds each
of salt and lime. At the time of the lowest prices—in
- May—tfresh eggs not more than three days old are put
into the mixture. These eggs are used whenever prices
ave high until the next May. During ten years of expe-
rience I have put down thousands of eggs, and never
had any spoil that were right at first.—[W. W. N.,
Litchfield County, Ct.

Another Recipe.—Lime, two quarts; salt, one quart ;
cream cf tartar, three ounces; boiling water, eight gal-
lons; stir well and let cool. It is immaterial whether
you remove sediment or not, after about two weeks.
Drop the eggs, as gathered (only the fresh ones), in the
pickle, and keep covered from the light.

THE POULTRY YARD PROCESS.

Take one pint of salt and one quart of fresh lime, and
slake with hot water. When slaked, add sufficient
water to make four gallons. When well settled, pour
off the liquid gently into a stone jar. Then with a dish
place the eggs in, tipping the dish after it fills with the
liquid, so they will roll out without cracking the shell,
for if the shell is cracked the egg will spoil. Put the

eggs in whenever you have them fresh. Keep them
covered, in a ccol place.

”

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR. O47

QUALITIES OF THE BREEDS.

The following tables are based on statements of many
authorities and experts, bringing into compact form a
large amount of descriptive data from various sources.
The information is meant to represent the general aver-
age of the breeds under good care, excluding statements
which apply only to greatly improved strains or to fow!s
exceptionally well managed. Moreover, in a flock that
has not been improved by selection, many of the indi-
viduals will not come up to the normal averace of the
breed. Hence, the beginner cannot safely rely upon
the yield and weight given, although the figures have
often been exceeded.

In regard to cost of raising, Jacobs declares: ‘‘ Fifty
cents will more than pay the cost of raising any kind of
fowls, not excepting turkeys and geese.” By general pur-
pose breeds are meant those which are equally good for
production of meat or eggs. The meat breeds are those
which are usually kept rather for market poultry than
for eggs. The egg breeds are non-sitters and great lay-
ers, but less valuable for market poultry.

Authorities consulted in compiling these tables include
government Bulletins 41, 51 and 64, reports of experi-
ment stations of New York, Louisiana and Utah, pub-
lished works of Wright, Beale, Jacobs, Boyer and Hun-
ter, and direct inquiries of leading breeders of chickens,
ducks, geese and turkeys. Whenever weights are men-
tioned in the Standard of Perfection, these are adopted
in the tables.

fe INCUBATION PERIODS. (DAYS.)

| Shortest. Average. Longest.
HSN ESS acostee tate eeek 19 21 24
AMENEONG Sane mid aeodnne Ge 24 26 30
DIUM ak Sse se te oe closets 28 30 32
GROOSCHE sass at a digies wanre 27 30 3
IPIBEOIN Goced spon seodoe 16 18 20
Reavnensn ses) coe ees 25 28 30
Guinea hen.... eos 20 23 25

SWAN coidie aiviclete c aise ee cle 40 42 45

a

lacie
OOD CD 88

£© 10 109 16 CO

PROFITS IN POULTRY.

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d49

POULTRY DICTIONARY AND CALENDAR.

Gen’] purpose
breeds.
Barred P. Roek,
Wyandotte.....
AN EL ersten ee
Dominiaue.....
JElONGIINE ca6 so8
Meat breeds.
Light Brahma..
(Choalitines s2-
Langshan
Col. Dorking...
Eeg breeds.

Leghorn......
Hamburg.......
Black Spanish.
Minorea........

Mise. breeds.
Indian Game...
Game, R. B. B..
Polish
Andalusian ....
Common..
Ducks.
Pekin...
Rouen ........ A
Aylesbury......
CEINADISE) aaa Goanac
Common..
Geese.

Toulouse .......

Bmbden........

APTI CA ee oc. Se
Turkeys.

BrOnZevleecs «cs.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS.

Eggs, color.

brown
brown

light brown
light brown
light

Vk brown
Vk brown
light brown
light

white
light

white
white

light
brown
white
light
various

white
various
light
white
various

light
light
white

light

Consti- |Fora/As sit-| As : Skin sae :
tution. |gers.| ters. |mother Meat. eolor. Worst defect.
hardy {good |nne good good jyellow dark pinfeathers
hardy jgood |fine good good jyellow smallish eggs
hardy {goo d|good |good good |yellow dark pinfeathers
hardy |/good|}good |good good jyellow small eggs
average |good |ftair poor good jlight skin not yellow

|
hardy jfair jheavy |clumsy |fair yellow jslow to mature
average |poor |leavy jclumsy |coarse |yellow lazy, broody
hardy jfair |fair fair fine light skin not yellow
tender |good |good j|good fine light skin not yellow
hardy /fine jnon poor poor jyellow small body
tender |g0o0d |poor’ |poor good j|bluish small egg
average |good jnon poor poor jbluish tender skin, dark
hardy /|good |non poor fair light skin light, big comb
tender {fair j|fair fair fine yellow eges few and small
hardy /good |fine best good yellow eggs few and small
tender |poor|poor |poor poor |white tender
hardy j|good |non poor poor jlight skin not yellow
hardy ‘good |good jgood Tair various juncertain
hardy j|fair |poor |poor fine yellow _|timid, noisy
hardy jfair |poor |good good jyellow Wk feathers sm. eggs
hardy jfair |fair good |fair yellow less compact
hardy jfair |poor jgood good |dark idark feathers
hardy jgood|good |good jfair various jless meaty
hardy jfair |good |fair fair yellow _|flesh coarse
average |fair |fair fair fine yellow poor layers
hardy j|good |fair fair fine yellow dark feathers
tender (fine |fair fair fine slow maturity

light

Strong points.

general purpose
quick growth
general purpose
general purpose
flavor of meat

size, meat, dark eggs
size, beauty

winter laying

flavor of meat

number of eggs
number of eggs
large eggs
large eggs

breast meat
style
ornament
color, eggs
hardiness

quick growth, eggs
general purpose
general purpose
general purpose
general purpose

compact shape
quality, weight
good layers, meat

weight

LIN DE,

PAGE
Annex to poultry house......... 60
Bamba fOwlsSkecee nee cise yels 107
Barre nensemeS beecen assis 37
BIZCIONC AGE Sasa roto eee ca seiaee 320
Breed—best for market..........
MOL DEOULEHS: scetcejemecs tee eecietaeress 10
For early roasters.............. 9
For late roasters....5 2.05 .22.5.. 9
Breeding and cross breeding....247
Breeds—characteristics ......... 301
MACs ealoOULbse + cutee senses 35)
Multiplication of .............. 249
1EXO) OEE ag oloqcnoa soon ascH dacs 121
Breeds of Fowls:
SASTINEOT GAINED crcl sine Seles eosin ee nee 168
American Dominiques........ 172
Aimerican Javas.....:..5-.. cee. 177
TRESITIEPT BN Giana whet er che Nh aiag penetra es 123
Baek Coan soe s soe eee eens 131
Black Java (Gut)... 2.0.0.5... 260 249
Black-red Game............... 144
JSIEKGIS SiORWOUISI ogo4 6eGnccds pounce 154
Brown Leghorns................. 160
UTEC OGIMINS sem acg ose aeee 131
OreviecOcuridn arenes ee nee 165
Dark Brahmas........ poker saat pees
Duek-wing Game... ..2s:. 140
1 DLR) Oana as ayaa pooneeas saa 135
PHT CRs ie eles hey a eee atone ery 161
Gra G Sera ye ye einige vee yea 13:
LANTUS Sie aie tre etree crash cnn 145
EL OUIGUA TNE enor ee ee cent 161
MAW SSMAMS ose ace eae 131
IhighlteBratiiias 2.8. bo.3..6 oe 123
lef enc laxss (OOPMMNS Gaon sasonnone 12
lV MOUGHEROCKS 4.) een see 168
TOUS Ee tea ianites Met Beer CPL mean 149
Silver-gray Dorkings.......... 136
WihwtesCoeluims 43-05) oe. 131
White-crested White Polish..150
White Dorlkings 7.) 22 555. AB7
Wahinte esters: 2...) 2 eueck 156
White Wonders (GUD ee 267
WaNOODbesr ea) ..: 5 4 267
Breéds, qualities of... 349
Brooders—eare of |... ..... 6. 261
For ehieks sty. 0). i "62-75
Brooder Mouse! /) (80s ois) ie

Brooding pen ¢ 2
Buin ble-foot or hens.......... 52

SOR ee GOA. <2) ela 186
Calendar of poultry work...339.342
Caponizing “how done........... 93

Instruments ............ 270 99.06
CANE OF cliches. 62) 82. Nene. te 268-269
Care of duces. ieige es 270
Census of 1990............... yh aae

PAGE
Charcoal and stimulants........106
Chicken coop—complete........ 54
BOK 62h bc eece on bie onlge ieee 57
Barrel, 2 2240s Bee eee &
Chicks—Brooders for-early.... 62
Care Ob neue tac » v4
IAISIN CAL 542-12 e eee 60
Cholera *..4..82 Se eee 181,326
MEX CURE: Boise cone Seer 333
Cleawlinesscc 3c) ee seen eee 282
Cock weleit, Ole...) as eee 3.0

Cold latitudes, wintering fowls.113
Color of skin lot attected by

POCO os Oo satis ee eee eee 8
Common Se€nNSe................... 101
Constitution—compared....,....251

Of various breeds.............. 351
Coops for turkeys: cee: 297,299,300
Crates, folding. 2s)), 2s: eee 45
Crook for catching fowls........; 1i7
Crops raised for poultry........ 109
Cross breeding—........ aie eres 217

Advantage Ofla..44.5- eee 150

Guide to sin2.eh. ee 256

Systematic...) .-. 2 se eee 253
Crosses—for CSS. ecsosseee 259

Va1vOUS 3 ose cbige eco neeee eee 258-259
Defects of breeds........--..-...- 351
Dictionary, poultry. 22. 4-sesee 930
Disease, defence against........ 187
Diseases and pests........... 178,320

Blackhead of turkeys..... ... 327

Burmible-f£00te. hs <1 -ase ee ee 186

Chicken=poOxe- eee eee 181

Cholera, ‘thes: see eee 181,326

Cramp ao... acs: eee eee 220

DIATE OCA. c sles. sae eee ee

Distemper@...<.tee<coss eae 178

Hce= bounds ee. sae ee ae eee 186

Hoe ea time 2. see ee 124

Beather-catine 24.5 .2eaee 185,323

Heathers, loss ofs... .2oe see 186

Gapesi etnGn. cee 185,322

TCE)... ss 2 ons vacua ee eee

WEES ooo caus: end eens sheiere eee

Nest bugs. coh eee eee 73)

Pip; thes c.c20t) eee ee 125

RQup, the: ..s.eco eee ae 178 3'7

Sea VVTeOS tose a eee 183,291

Tape wOnMS joaqe<s see eee
Dowslas aMieehikess cee eee eee
Dri miko ok oie ee 221
Duck—house ........ BS niches <229

Mothers: 22.).c025 0 Sep Ono

(350)

INDEX. 301
PAGE PAGE
Ducks—Continued. Game fowls at fairs.............. 144
INSUIAV CES. 0 -- 6 e/oe- Serie .- 220,226 | Geese—Embden ..........-.--.++ 215
Aylesbury ........---.-+--..- ABA S IBinGkiny ss asoc6 sooo ele eae 216
Need litile water............-- 223 Sebastopol... -.-<----0.255== =< 242
Retin). sano aeae ewe eaeneee Time of incubation............ 34u
RONeR es 6s. s\sssss sees ease 230 Toulouse OWigin....-2:.-------- 21d
Time of incubation............ 349 iWiariGhieS Of-- 2-5 sie eeeiescee tee 212
W histhineis <2 2 cssc.s-osa=te ee 242 | Goose-raising..........--....----- 210
Egy—crale...... +--+ eee eee ee eee 90 | Green food.... .......-------.--+: 105
Pv NE eget Opes octer.code Soctan ick 186 | Healthy fowls............-------- 273
adie se .5 2.5: ae ae aan ie sie scape 89 | Hen, standard weight of........ 300
Receipts and prices....-.---.-.- 93t pHintsUSCEWIE se eeree ee serrran ie
Eggs—analysis of......---------- 287 | Incubation—artificial ........... 65
OPI Ce UT tee neemenelnes Saeco aasncenr 48 IN LiL Lhe) We A ee AO a te ere eae 46
GOoloniOmes <= 62.7 eee eee 351 IReGriaedSiee ees eee oes = ees 349
DD Aiea Sak aaneenoasead code joecee 184 | Incubators, direction for run-
IDES TET IO PLe os oc oeem ae coon ooead 273 INNES oo eae sc5 pandesee acs atc 2
INO MAPICS aa oe a = niet= lee wei 86 IHotiwater- 22 5---.-s-66e-- see 68
Import and export of......-.-. a9k HO WsLOMM Ale eee eee ne 69
In Great Britain and in the Saw-dust packing.............. 71
LON VUrEC USES Sep asoocecacss OL Self-regulators.--....5.--..---< 68
Dinnineeeer ree ee ata 86-89 Success and failure with...... 66
Market for........----...------- 91 SRRETMONTe Ler FOE scare sons 7
Of various breeds: 322-2---=--5- 350 | Indian meal dough.............- 11
Packins: Tor winter: --. 2... 89, 342 | Japanese Bantams.......-....... 238
Packing in barrels: :-...55---:2 S7 | Meeping, cost Of. 2<.225. —.2 2.28 350
Per Pound :¢ 5 ...s22s4s 523s ssenec OF )) |) POSSE Sees -.coctssScesong essce 343
Record OF 2. -6 a2 asa seee nis ese 287 BoraxomeunoO@ sees see = si > eee 342
SeleChiom fOr oe ee oe oeeeiaioaia 252 Lime and brine recipe........ 346
Toseeure ilk Wilter.-........2. 115 LIME VECIPE 520 ass Dees a eee 345
Wat for picklines eee. o 2a 90 Loomis’s recipe for keeping
Higo—1eSting, - 2 cao -an- - oe nee fms 47 elLfiiss ae Bae Gauanoossoereassenc 5
Yield per year .- ............. 390 Witerelass =o) 5.020. ce ee ee 343
Excelsior meal bread............266 | Large birds, how to raise........ 119
Exercise..... ete e tees eee es eee 277 | Laying age, time of .-............ 350
Exports and imports of eggs.... 92 | PAce on Nensss oss: se esse 189,323
FPattening ration........... ----- dd S o> Prevention: O£3..<2-<.\2<40 117,326
Feather—bone........---+-+++-++ 84 | Louse eggs on feathers... ...... 189
Eating......-...2.-222 ee ee eee 185,323 | Males, importance of pure...... 122
Feathers—save the.............. 84 | Market for poultry and eggs... 91
Loss Of ...--+2+ +--+ esse erence eee 185 | Marketing poultry............ 80,270
Types Of....----..-.--.-. --+--- 334 | Market law, New York.......... 82
Feeding—Buffinton’s rule for...275 Matins——) seeee cease eee = 248
CUNT ELS a OER ee eee pe 266 Black and white breeds.......248
MCOROHRY IDS. a. seca: samt erisn es 280 bute CochinsS.226---! ~ce-l-==\- ---- 251
Melchss.ruletOn..5.o-< se - ...264 Dark Brahnins-c--------------- 250
TMiin (SES eS eso ssesoorbnpece sebe 273 Partridge Cochins...-....----- 251
For growth.........-..---+.-e-- 261 Plymouth Rocks....----------- 249
Pen for chicks........-........ 59 Wyandottes.....-----..-++--+-- 249
ye Si Oe O LEG Peon tee See Sees che a 280 | Maturity, time of........-------+ 350
(CEA Naas Sonor ane snocacon cracicc 41 | Mistakes, common.....---------- 282
Noon. 2ionnt OF-2- 2 ..s0ee-s 5525 SRO | MARES =. 8 Sc ee = << ne ee weew es cve= -e 329
Foods—analyses of ......-.--..--286 | Nest box—lock...-..--------+-+--+ 39
IWERRIGUIS or one ee re ses 284 SGGCHEC Bis cos aes seen ee oe 50
Foreign egg trade................ 92 With reller in front....----... 40
Fowls—ege bound ..<. ......-..5. 186 | Nest boxes—......---------+-*: 33-35
Bre eating)... joensen hee emacs 1s4| Pinned together........------- 36
Feather-eating....-.......-..-. 185 | Sliding, through partition.... 34
Greenstood fOrs.c55-soe. sates ss 105 | Nest—of woven Wife......------+ 38
Losipo featNerscsoce -. 26 om = ss TSG pa MNES Sis = ia cee ieieenie wie eal i na 330
Management and food........ 10; For egg-eating hens.....-----+ 37
Selecting and selling....... .. Tiget Enos parrel.-<.~-~-G.~5<-=<s~2-- 37
White-skinned preferred in Tid Vceee aes asee wa eee Bees 40
Philadelphia, ete ..........-- New York dressed poultry law. &2
Yellow-skinned preferred in Packing and shipping....... --. 270
New HMnclang..---.css2-- -- Parrish LOOG. =<. ces cecce ceo enee <= 333

a02 INDEX.

PAGE

Pasturing. fowls... 2.2) 6652.4. 648
PEA rtOW Ie 2 pos aes doesnt eeu 235
Trained to stay at home...... 237
IEEE NES PINAY secar cod dane coon oe 31
Poultry—anatomy ...............248
CONVENIENCES eene ee neers 3l
Dressing and stuffing........:. 81
Dressing, N. EK. method........ 83
Ommnianvemitalli eer roe ie ee 235
IVUISUN Geren. yearn sept iad oe Meee i
SPECial hood? CLOp mois. ae oc 109
EINEM Tivoy TONNES Re 4b hoot aa ak 80
Powltny MOUSeS 7A oer kewl ahs cic, 13
Building nivaterial for...) ..... 25
C,H. Colburn’s.... 2. BUR eNeGS Oe 21
Tale Whevclene @rHOMNUNGL yack ee 25
Joy PiRY OLIGO Bem RAR at carer ay ae 27
Mei ehieaip ease sine tu, ae 13
Meryaconpletensieessnsenoence 21

A AEZ IES C0) ae A est a meaty pi tem aa e ms ee 14
Poultry keeping—as a business... 98
Money middie ‘by :2. o6..2.2... 99
Poultry management, hints..... 101
Foultryman’s eroolk i.) oe..20.. 7
Poultry yard, common sense in.101
Res IN COStIOL 42.1 ee yee es 349
Ration—for fattening........... 11
Saultpam ty oe ee ee Cae 104
ECONO ES aS ivi dean lees a 287
Sk evita Fisina si): ee ee 320
TEOUSES MLO comers ite he te ee ee 32
LENO OS pea UI Se ae re net 178,317
imles Of, Ki Kelehis223.0.604 247
DEMHESHM HOKE SATUMONM edo bogs oehance. 104
Samuels on market breeds...... 8
ho Cee) UO NW KE LORey ees Nn les it ae 183,321
SElECMON fOrseoas yas leas 252
SKULTN MES MUON KONRa oe ene s Ga n an 349
oT Oy Sh Wyse a ame Re epee AIRC 270
(CCHeNSs) ONCHING oa andeones Gone 43
Sitting box, secure.......... scan all)

Sitting hens, care of............. 49

PAGE

Slin, color of <; “kee eeee Gauidure soll
Spring and summer e€are........ 279
Statistics of poultry trade..... 91-92
Stimulants, Use Ghee. so 4.7. seeeee 106
Stone tor poultry house......... 33
Dape worms -z .....ke eee eee 324
Terms, explanation of....... 395-338
Theory and practice......,)_. ee
Turkey—blackhead............., 327
Black (ut). Jc. 6a ae eee 302
Breeding stock: , . 1... 292
BTONAES pin as eeeee ake 311,313
Buh yeas ss ed oa 294
CHICKS 23.535 5523 28a 295
COOP es ee ee 299
Culture, essay Olles.c sae eee 306
PM@n bation. 25.2 ace eee 293
NOSIS oi icc. Cae ee ee 208
Raising: 2... Ses oo eee 193
ROOStS ies. 2h ik oo ae: cae 195
Turkeys—breed and ecare........ 291
Bron Zecg ig ceesncss cone eee 194
CarerOb.c ot4ushssceee eee 300-303
Wanly; DrOOdSs. =. ee sae eee 204:
Fatteninge ) io soc5.0 sais encores 196
Meedines) the chicksteeeeeneses 206
lebomcyeeKoitiganeaaceceunoccences: 203
In Rhode Island............ 310-315
Loss of weight in dressing....208
IMR ksimnor es ol vcserteenstenee terete 303-306
On-tie fais. eee eee 288
Setting the lems. co eects cir 205
Time of incubation... ossseeee" 349
Will Gi hitibits) Of sao. eiceeeteeets 198
Water fountain— os secnreae 42,281
PME HC. -s:-enoe Merete 41
Water fowls, ornamental....... 241

Weight of fowls at three mos. ..350

Weight of fowls at twelve mos..350

Wintering fowls in cold lat-
LDMOS. tc a wieeic ae eee eetos Beis 1 3

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CONTAINING 116 8vo. PAGES,

PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED, AND GIVING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF
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Mushrooms: How to Grow Them.

Any one who has an ordinary house cellar, woodshed or barn, can
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in America. The author describes how he grows Mushrooms, and
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Cloth. Price, postpaid. 1.5¢

Land Draining.

A Handbook for Farmers on the Principles and Practice of Drain:
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construction of tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the
errors of imperfect construction, and the disappointment that
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Allen’s New American Farm Book.

The very best work on the subject; comprising all that can be con-
densed into an available volume. Originally by Richard L. Allen.
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Henderson’s Gardening for Profit.

By Peter Henderson. The standard work on Market and Family
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Henderson’s Gardening for Pleasure. ©

A guide to the amateur in the fruit, vegetable and flower garden,
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Johnson’s How Crops Grow.

New Edition. A Treatise on the Chemical Composition, Structure
and Life of the Plant. Revised Edition. This book is a guide to
the knowledge of agricultural plants, their composition, their
structure and modes of development and growth;of the complex
organizations of plants, and the use of the parts; the germination
of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and
the soil. The book is a valuable one to all real students of agricul-
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- Samuel W. Johnson of Yale College. Cloth, 12mo, 2.00,

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Johnson’s How Crops Feed.

A Treatise on the Atmosphere and the Soil, as related in the
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who appreciate the scientific aspects of agriculture. Lllustrated.
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Market Gardening and Farm Notes.

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Forest Planting.

A Treatise on the Care of Woodlands and the Restoration of the
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Harris’ Talks on Manures.

By Joseph Harris, M. §., author of ‘‘Walks and Talks on the Farm,”
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Truck Farming at the South.

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contemplates entering this promising field of Agriculture. By A.
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Sweet Potato Culture.

- Giving full instructions from starting the plants to harvesting and
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Heinrich’s Window Flower Garden.

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Greenhouse Construction.

By Prof. L. R. Taft. A complete treatise on Greenhouse structures
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Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants.

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managed, they afford the greatest amount of pleasure at the least
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Henderson’s Practical Floriculture.

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Long’s Ornamental Gardening for Americans.

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The Propagation of Plants.

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Parsons on the Rose.

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ing the flower, and gives us an idea of the esteem in which it was
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Henderson’s Handbook of Plants.

This new edition comprises about fifty per cent. more genera than
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Barry’s Fruit Garden.

By P. Barry. A standard work on Fruit and Frnit Trees; the author
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up to date. Invaluable to all fruit growers. Illustrated. Cloth,
12mo. 2.00

Fulton’s Peach Culture.

This is the only practical guide to Peach Culture on the Delaware
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the country. It has been thoroughly revised and _a large portion of
it rewitten, by Hon. J. Alexander Fulton, the author, bringing it
down to date, Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

Strawberry Culturist.

By Andrew S. Fuller. Containing the History, Sexuality, Field and
Garden Culture of Strawberries, forcing or pof culture, how to
grow from seed, hybridizing, and all information necessary to en-
able everybody to raise their own strawberries, together with a
description of new varieties and a list of the best of the old sorts.
Fully illustrated. Flexible cloth, 12mo. 26

Fuiler’s Small Fruit Culturist.

By Andrew §. Fuller. Rewritten, enlarged, and brought fully up to
the present time. The book covers the whole ground of propagating
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very finely and thoroughly illustrated, and makes an admirable
companion to “The Grape Culturist,” by the same well known
author. 1.50

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Fuller’s Grape Culturist.

By A. 8S. Fuller. This is one of the very best of works on the Cule
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of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illus-
trating planting, training, grafting, ete. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

Quinn’s Pear Culture for Profit.

Teaching How to Raise Pears intelligently, and with the best re-
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preparing it, the best varieties to select under existing conditions,
the best modes of planting, pruning, fertilizing, grafting, and utiliz-
ing the ground before the trees come into bearing, and finally of
gathering and packing for market. Illustrated. By P. T. Quinn,
practical horticulturist. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00

Husmann’s American Grape Growing and Wine-Making.

By George Husmann of Taleoa vineyards, Napa, California. New
and enlarged edition. With contributions from well know grape-
growers, giving a wide range of experience. The author of this
book is a recognized authority on the subject. Cloth, i2mo. 1.5¢€

White’s Cranberry Culture.

Contents :—Natural History.—History of Cultivation.—Choice of
Location.—Preparing the Ground.—Planting the Vines.—Manage-
ment of Meadows.—Flooding.—Enemies and Difficulties Overcome.
—Picking.—Keeping.—Profit and Loss.—Letters from Practical
Growers.—Insects Injurious to the Cranberry. By Joseph J. White,
a practical grower. Illustrated. Cloth,12mo. New and revised
edition. 1.25

Fuller’s Practical Forestey.

A Treatise on the Propagation, Planting and Cultivation, with a
description and the botanical and proper names of all the indigen-
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Notes on a large number of the most valuable Exotic Species. By
Andrew S. Fuller, author of “Grape Culturist,” “Small Fruit Cul-
turist,”’ ete. 1.50

Stewart’s Irrigation for the Farm, Garden and Orchard.

This work is offered to those American Farmers and other ecultiva-
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periods. By Henry Stewart. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

{

Quinn’s Money in the Garden.

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from successful practical experience for a term of years. MTlustra-
ted. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

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Roe’s Play and Profit in My Garden.

By E. P. Roe. The author takes us to his garden on the rocky hill
sides in the vicinity of West Point, and shows us how out of it,
after four years’ experience, he evoked a profit of $1,000, and this
while carrying on pastoral and literary labor. It is very rarely
that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agri-
cultural experience and good sense. Cloth, 12mo. 1.56

The New Onion Culture.

By T. Greiner. This new work is written by one of our most suc: |
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the family garden, or by the acre for market. By the process here
deseribed a crop of 2000 bushels per acre can be as easily raised as
500 or 600 bushels in the old way. Paper, 32mo. 50

The Dairyman’s Manual.

By Henry Stewart, author of “The Shepherd’s Manual,” cperigns
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known as thoroughly familiar with the subject of which he writes.
Cloth, 12mo. 2.00

Allen’s American Cattle.

Their History, Breeding and Management. By Lewis F. Allen.
This book will be considered indispensable by every breeder of
live stock. The large experience of the author in improving the
character of American herds adds to the weight of his observations
and has enabled him to produce a work which will at once make
good his claims as a standard authority on the subject. New and
revised edition. Dllustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50

Profits in Poultry.

Useful and ornamental Breeds and their Profitable Management.
This excellent work contains the combined experience of a num-
ber of practical men in all departments of poultry raising. It is
profusely illustrated and forms a unique and important addition
to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12mo. 1.06

The American Standard of Perfection.

The recognized standard work on Poultry in this bic adopted
by the Amevican Poultry Association. It contains a complete de-
- scription of all the recognized varieties of fowls, including turkeys,
ducks and geese; gives instructions to judges; glossary of technical
terms and nomenclature. It contains 244 pages, handsomely
bound in cloth, embellished with title in gold on front cover. $1.00

Stoddard’s An Egg Farm.

By H. H. Stoddard. The management of poultry in large numbers,
being a series of articles written for the AMERICAN AGRICULTUR:
ist. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. ee!

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Stewart’s Shepherd’s Manual,

A Valuable Practical Treatise on the Sheep for American farmers
and sheep growers. Itisso plain that afarmeror a farmer’s son
who has never kept a sheep, may learn from its pages how to
manage a flock successfully, and yet so complete that even the ex-
perienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The
results of personal experience of some years with the characters
of the various modern breeds of sheep, and the sheep raising capa-
bilities of many portions of our extensive territory and that of
Canada—aund the careful study of the diseases to which our sheep
are chiefly subject, with those by which they may eventually be
afflicted through unforseen accidents—as well as the methods of
management called for under our circumstances, are carefully
deseribed. By Henry Stewart. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

Wright’s Practical Poultry-Keeper.

By L. Wright. A complete and standard guide to the management
of poultry, for domestic use, the markets or exhibition. It suits at
once the plain poulterer, who must make the business pay, and the
chicken fancier whose taste is for gay plumage and strange, bright
birds. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $2.00

Harris on the Pig.

New Edition. Revised and enlarged by the author. The points of
the various English and American breeds are thoroughly discussed,
and the great advantage of using thoroughbred males clearly
shown. Tle work is equally valuable to the farmer who keeps but
few pigs, and tothe breeder on an extensive scale. By Joseph
Harris. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50

The Farmer’s Veterinary Adviser.

A guide to the Prevention and Treatment of Disease in Domestic
Animals. This is one of the best works on this subject, and is es-
pecially designed to supply the need of the busy American Farm:
er, who can rarely avail himself of the advice of a Scientific Veter-
inarian. It is brought up to date and treats of the Prevention of
Disease as wellas of the Remedies. By Prof. Jas, Law, Cloth,
Crown, 8vo. 3.00

Dadd’s American Cattle Doctor.

By George H. Dadd, M. D., Veterinary Practitioner. To help every
man to be his own cattle-doctor; giving the necessary information
for preserving the health and curing the diseases of oxen, cows,
sheep and swine, with a great variety of original recipes, and val-
uable information on farm and dairy management. Cloth, 12mo.1.50

Cattle Breeding.

By Wm. Warfield. This work is by common consent the most
valuable and pre-eminently practical treatise on cattle-breeding
ever published in America. being the actual experience and ob-
servance of a practical man. Cloth, 12mo. 2.08

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i . 2 iy
: 4 = : Le ‘ St

- -+ AL a eae, WI .

esr N ascii ies eee PT NSO) |
CASE NY Al hone 4 \ ; si)

rT x i AS j \ % y

aa eA ht =—s d Bed

APN AS Bis ‘es oO fd of aa Yh Oy prt e

Ay

0

OREGON
RULE

co. 13