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[ffe23x®?l!I 3' RANDOM RECORDS OF A LIFETIME , DEVOTED TO SCIENCE AND ART, 1846-1931 l ff ! •r i y BY W. H. HOillES /// VOLUME V RANDOM RECORDS OF A LIFETIME DEVOTED TO SCIENCE AMD ART, 1846-1931 BY W. E. HO DIES VOLUME V, 1879-94 Section I 1879 Closing of the Interior and War Depart- ment Surveys and establishment of the U. S. Geological Survey. Visit to England, France, Germany, Switzer- land, Holland, Austria and Italy. Art Studies in Munich. Return to Washington. Section II 1880 With Captain Dutton on the Survey of the Colorado Canyon. Appointment on the new Survey. Preparation of maps and panoramas for the Atlas of the Grand Canyon, Colorado. In Charge of the closing of the Hayden Surve y . Section III 1884 Trip to Mexico with Mr. and Mrs. Chain and W. H. Jackson, photographers. Illustrations. Section IV 1886-7 In Rocky Mountains with Langley and Powell. Adventures and Disaster. Ancient Ruins The Mother Squirrel and the Snake. The Bear Story. Remarkable Scenery. Section V Work on Chicago Exposition. 1894 Acceptance of Chicago position and farewell to Washington. Banquet and Loving Cup. I i i/\ V. JL a/v K'AU. }•¥ s* t *• ' - ' i I M VOLUME V SECTION I, 1879 Closing of the Interior and War Department Surveys and establish- ment of the U.S. Geological Survey. Visit to England, France, Germany, Switzerland, Holland, Austria and Italy. Art Studies In Munich. Return to Washington. 1 I 3 , Q- r rk off to o ■ ol LilS ;oo ive p id on /y ,? ',.///# /wr/et-u/jmss/, • y • Ay r 32 l }fw:v \ > S 7 / ///or & /rr/ / (J ///c/s/.v /„)/// C/Un /C/// • . yf n i 'ft . ^y o . ZAT^l J / / / ?/??/ // ZlC ^Z-C il j y \j UZ/re G. Z/^ia/aie -XT TO3 a S'aairj'JWa* CLOSE OF THE HAYDEN SURVEY TRIP TO EUROPE 1879-1880 On June 3G, 1879, the Hayden Survey of the Territories, which had been for several years actively engaged in Rocky Moun- tain surveys, was discontinued by Congress. The Arny Engineer Survey under the direction of George M. Wheeler was closed at the same time and the U. S. Geological Survey was established by Congress, with Clarence King as Director. Although my work on the old Survey was not completed, I resolved to take a year off for a trip to Europe, the principal objects of the trip being to visit the museums and galleries of the principal cities, and to study art. The second six months of 1879 and the first six months of 1880 were devoted to this outing. Provided with necessary passport and letters of intro- duction, the latter by Professor Baird, Dr. Hayden, Mr. Donald- son and others, I sailed August 2, 1879, and landed at Liverpool August 21. My diary note books of the period give elaborate details of my do ings , but, as with those of other periods, they were too voluminous to be preserved or copied, and for the most part have been destroyed, and my many sketches in pencil and water color have been widely scattered. I had a pleasant voyage, no sickness at all. In London I visited the galleries, museums and public places generally, leaving on August 24 for Dover and thence for Calais, Brussels, Aix La Chape lie, Cologne, Dusseldorf, Zermatt (September 14). ■ . ■ ' * , ■ . „ ■ "■ ' :■ . -■■■ & . a ■ t : . • ■ ,, :• ■. ?. : . ' " . ■ • ' • ' ■ Bonn, Drachenfels, Konigsburg, Rolandseck, Clblenz, Bingen, Dresden, (August 25), Heidelberg (August 28), Frankfort, Strasbourg (Aug. 29) Lue era, . Basel (August 31), Berne, Interlacken, Genoa. Made sketches everywhere in Switzerland, especially in the Alps, studies of Glaciers, much about Chamounix, Zermatt, the Materhorn, and Zurich (September 20). Reached Munich, September 22, 1879 where I spent much time in Galleries and Museums. Joined the American Colony of Art students of which Frank Duveneck was the leading spirit. Associat- ed with Turner, Mills, Ritter, Muller, Currier, Frank Duveneck and others. Worked from various models. Made and brought home a lot of sketches showing the influence of the Duveneck School. Ross Turner was a Washington boy and was a good friend. Returned from Germany to London, March 2, 1880 Paris, March 3-15 Genoa, March 15 Pisa, March 16 Rome, March 19 - 31 Naples, April 2, 1880 Vesuvius, April 1, first visit Herculeum Pompeii, April 7, 8, 14 Eboli, April 15 Palermo, April 10 Paestum, April 10 Amalfi, April 17 - 24 rf" ■ . • . . •- . . ' •• ■ . ' ' . ■ - , , ' • . ■ ' - , . ? ... 1 ' Capri, ten days, April 24 to May 3 Naples, on the way sketched Capri, Castle Mare and Vesuvius. Rome , May 4 Florence, May 5 Venice, Cheoggia with Weyl, Paris and Freeman. In Venice I found many artists: Weyl, Ritter, Duveneck DeCamp, Alexande, Adams, Spangler, Phenhart, Ferher, Becker, Wendell, Corwin, Mills, Currier, Turner Left Ten ice May 30, 1880 and set out for Vienna thence through Germany to London again and home. Russell Street, sbury, London, nuary 18,1880. find me in me . I am ally in such •' >r r ^ - — - — mm-**- you* * i ** doubtless ill also Mrs. y way to live, r three weeks, oroughly tired le lowlands ined until the $ r most delightful > It is a city ind as full of 3ems as im- 50 to the isness and ?y duties of ior to none, intellectually and esthetically, and physically superior to all® T^P military training makes the men erect and digni- fied and the outdoor life and active employments of the women make them seem Amazonian. SCHWEITZER’S NACHFOLGER Cigarren-Importeur. ■ 7 ) MUNCHEN, am L 0 Oy \ 1 1 f-{ [-|Q y £ fy HOT \ F\ CATION 7 ?' *^s 7 f T<:T 7 x T / 7 ^ * y'^ ^V 4 ^' c v ^ yy-y ^ ^ <^r ypy /7 AA ^ T ''"A c2^/ AA y* v^T/ ’ «J’ ^/s^y? ^ ^ >*£* < 2 - 'yyy * - ^/T'Ti 5 ^- /TTT / •/ -TF yy^s ^TT T^’ y^y £* ^ , yy'^'^^py ^ ^ ^ *-?p* & A ~jy£S ^T <£ ^ T ' Tzyf? „ * ^ y / / — • yy* , / v ^ ✓ v y t/ s yzy^ yr y y * s yy- y s £ a^rrO , y/^yr-f^ ; ■■ i i iw$£ - ■ - . . • . ' - '■ . • • ' ' ■ £.a - .. . : j . : n.' : . ' , . ■ ' • ■ . . The Germans have some pretty sharp and hard corners to their characters, hut with all are much more polite than the English or Americans. They how when they meet their acquaintances and take off their hats to men as well as women. They sit down at a table in a public house with you a stranger, they say Good Day, and when they get up to leave they ho w and hid you Adieu. As a rule they are dull and are apparently often not capable of entertaining more than one idea at a time. They feed themselves with their knives and in many other ways are behind the times. They make the best beer in the world and drink oceans of it. Strangely enough there are few fat people. Cne will see more obese people in America in a month than in Europe in six. I found many Americans in Munich, mostly artistic and musical students. Two of them Boss Turner and Mr. Mills I had known in Washington, and two others were Duvenick and Mr. Currier from Cincinnati. The great International Art Exhibition lasted for a month after my arrival and I had a fine chance to study. Our Centennial Art Exhibition could not be compared with it for a moment. For two months I had a studio and did a good deal of water color drawing from life. The models and excellent and there are said to be as many as four thousand artists in . - UBIft rxtfiV - '< q~:.. • < ■ ., ■: p r. . . •• J ‘ . ■ ' f. - :. J ■ ’ ' » ' ..• ■ ■ : ' . . : ■ - ' . - ■\ "' - • ... . ■ * . • • i . .. . " ' . ' 1 XI : ' - , -■ • I-..- / :,C. •• ■ .. .. . ; . :> ■:* , ■ ; ‘..r • .Cl -r:; v ; • , :: ;• . : r'. r . • ' - ' • ■ •‘x ?T 8 . ' ' LON DOM , Ti)T3 ■ I Si O the City. The public galleries are hardly surpassed in the world. The city library is next to the largest in the world and the Museums are exceedingly rich in historical, geological and ethnological collections. . . - . , , ' / ' . . ■ ■ - - - - . . ■ ■ ' HOTEL BELLEVUE DRESDEN August 26, 1880. My dear Kate: And now a word from Dresden. Leaving Stattgart on Wednesday morning at 7, after leaving P.P.C. cards for everybody from King to Anthropologist, I reached Dresden after 12 hours ride through a most beautiful and interesting country. Here I found Marshall and Thomp- son at the Hotel Bellevue, on the bank of the Elk. We have spent three days seeing the Museums and Art Galleries and tomorrow morning are off for Berlin, which is only 2 hours and 40 minutes away. Today I have seen two Museums and an art exhibition, which means that I have been on my feet about seven hours. Dresden is a most interesting old city and withal a real city of importance. We can hardly say that we have "done" the city, but Prof. Meyer, of the Anthropo- logic Museum, has given us a great lesson in Museum making, which is what we are here for. He is the great authority on museums and installation. We shall be in Berlin 4 or 5 days and go thence to Hamburg, Brussells, etc., and reach Paris about September 20th or earlier. You can write to me care Hotel I ! dena after receiving this letter. . ' ?,* a ! ri.* . ' . r , - . . ' • . JOURNAL . Beginning June 20, 1880. Find myself in London. Visit Crystal Palace and spend some time in studying the paintings and other very interesting and important exhibits. The Palace is a magnificent structure and its dimensions are truly enormous. The park also is very Vv\_ large and beautiful. Handel T s "Israel Egypt" was being sung by an immense chorus - 3,000 singers and 1,000 instruments. Many very beautiful women. In the Palace I observed especially the groups of plaster casts representing various savage tribes, life size; they are very fine; also a group of Tartars in rich costume. Called at the Geological Museum and carried a letter to Professor Bristow, geologist. He was very kind and introduced me to Professor Hughes of Cambridge. Saturday, June 27th: Made sundry purchases and in the even- ing went to hear the "Pirates of Penzance," only so, so. In Talk- ing home through London '%/s acting in real life that made the stage affair seem pale. •Packing my belongings preparatory to leaving England. June 30th sailed from Liverpool by steamer Pennsylvania. About 40 cabin passengers and some hundreds of steerage. Nice weather throughout the voyage save one or two days. Was laid up about halfi a day. July 9th reached the capes; quarantined; customhouse officials coma aboard. Landed at nine Monday the 10th. In Philadelphia. Called on Dry Hayden and Mr. Don|lson; n. * and on the 13th reached Washington. Stopped at the Waver ly House and engaged storage ih the Vernon Row building. Called at the office; saw Eenshaw, PiAlo^y, Mrs. Marvin and others. fi i . *—• . t . .. . ; . , l . ' , si]; tii I " . . ' • . ' ■ : X . ■ • ‘ * ' ■ * ’ S 1 h: », • '•> ■ * • • - , . !? i l . - . . \ . > . ft?' •• • .. V 1 . . ■ . i ! j Jl f l i.l . • j ■’ .< 1 ■ j . • ' ~ *. . ■ * 1 , r ' . . . • . • ’ L t. •: - • - :Kv£i c l ■■ ■ ■ C b.i . ‘ . . ■> ■ ./ . ■ ■* • • - ■ - :■ • • • • j • /.:v : *. \ h >1 . i ( -■ ; J .••u; : 0 - . .. . * . - - : ■' :■ . . -i , ■ : • .. . - . .. '. ; j. . i . - X l J . .* - ... wNmHmo \AJ >4 MOLHt ‘1 f ( ri : ' s , ; - m f==ii^i^t=ji=ir^r^i^i^r^Mi^r^f=n=Jr=ii=Ji=Jr=>F = J ai n k/? .4/1.' ! i v**r ♦v* THE CRITERION AMERICAN BAR'S WIENER BIER SAAL, -o<- LIST. OF WINTER DRINKS. ►> o<- 1 Hot Tom* and Terry, Bourbon Whisky, Rye’Whisky. SODA NOGG. ‘ Sherry Cobbler. Claret Cobbler. Criterion Cobbler. Hot andCold Criterion - Lemonade. Hot and Cold American ! '‘'■"^'Lemonade. LONG DRINKS. Hock Cobbler. Brandy Cobbler Hotand Cold Egg Nogg. Brandy Punch. Claret Punch, Cider Nogg. Port Wine Sang^ree. Soda Cocktail. John Collins. Stone Fence. Milk Punch. Iced Chocolate. Iced Coffee, &c Knickebein. ~ Square Meal. Pousse Cafe. 4- Prairie Oyster. Rum and Molasses. Rum and Honey. SHORT DRINKS. i Corpse Reviver. > Our Swizzle. r‘ Criterion Reviver. i Peach Brandy & Honey. 14 Bosom Caresser. Flash of Lightning. Brandy and Gum. : H-Al-a-ba-zam. Criterion Flip. &g., &c. CRITERION SPECIALITIES. Flip Flap. Brandy Cocktail. Gin and Tansy. Gin Cocktail. Heap of Comfort. Egg Cocktail. Whisky Cocktail. > Rattlesnake. c c ( MAGNOLIA. Vermouth Cocktail. Sherry Blush. Fairies’ Kiss. Champagne Cocktail. Ladies’ Blush. Brandy Sour. Whisky Sour. St. Croix Sour. Gin Sour. Colleen Bawn. Criterion Coffee Punch Pick-Me-Up. Saddle Rock. Gin Smash. Sherry Flip. COBBLERS, PUNCHES, NOGGS. BOTTLED COCKTAILS— A SPECIALITY. LAGER BEER, 6d. PER BOCK. ALL DRINKS AT THE AMERICAN BAR ONE SHILLING. SPIERS & POND, Proprietors. A € i II n n n I 1 i n I I n 1 i n I i i I 0 1 1 si i I 0 0 13g=l r=^^J|^Ji^Jg=lr^r=lr=lr=l|=li^lr^n^r^ TTOTP CDTPTTQ AWT* T TOTTRITRS REE. OVER J s I/yv I S'V® r \ t b \ \ tj WU-l\j r 'V'CTWv cl. Uj(vUv C*L, tv*- «■ ' if, y ? ’ • 1 ■ > f /'■ . . t : i I ; ■ ■■ . ' ■ r In' ••• > < Mf-iii | ■ I" • . rifi H* • > ' i ^ c '^t. 2... ^ : i «• - - i. 1 ‘ J - i : , «• .1 ■ 5 ■ 5 - • Jit - r;„ ■J : : ; - - . i ; • ; " if C , ' . . ■. ! ' ' V". . . ‘ -V . t » ■ t I . ■ - - • • - . ■ • ... • i . * ;>!)- i :■ 1 ■ ■ . ' , ■ .. 1 ■ : t - - ' ■J Dutton and Mr, Bodfish. August 19th; Marched 22 miles toward Mount Trumbull, The rocks at the spring are triassic, but the plain across which we marched is underlaid by the permian. Details of geo- logical observations omitted* August 20th: Marched all day. Beached the saw mill tanks at the base of Mount Trumbull at night. Captain Dutton says that I am to work on the stratigraphy of the sedimentary and he on the volcanic formations. August 21st: Climbed Mount Trumbull and made sketch of canyon district to the east. August 22nd: Climbed Mount Trumbull again. • ' ■ . ■■■ . • ■ ' ■ . - ■■ ■; - i ■ 'v.- . . \ • • ‘ ' ' ‘ , ■ • - ■ ' : f- * ■ - • - • - : \ I Aug. 23rd: On east end of Trumbull sketching the toro- weap . Aug. 24th: Rode over to the summit of Mount Logan with Captain Dutton; afterwards to Oak Springs. Aug. 25th: Visited Hurricane Ledge and a number of vol- canic cones. Everywhere encountered graves and pottery fragments . Aug. 26th and 27th: On geological studies. Aug. 28th: Went down to the Grand Canyon. Got a glimpse of the magnificent spectacle and hurried back* there being no water within reach. Aug. 29th: Climbed Mount Emma and made panoramas . Aug. 30th: Again on Mount Logan. Aug. 31st: On Hurricane Ledge. Started on a three days trip to the Grand Canyon. Sept. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th: Made sketches in camp. Spent several days about the rim of the canyon. ( Two pages of the note book lost). The sun had set behind the walls of the Grand Canyon, leav- ing the sky a wall of murky crimson. The winds arose and swept along the ledge behind the great pines. Before a group of cycle- pean buttes seamed and pinnacled lifted their heads from the silent, somber depths into the light. Beyond a space lay in gloom, whose depth and width no man would dare to guess, rises a giant wall oi dense red. Beyond this the shadows crept across the broad cliff broken plains; and the shadows of the world, dark and blue, crept up the orange sky. Sept. 17th: Left camp and set out for the Kaibab plateau. r.f - :: . ■ ; ■ / . : ::: P • * K »-> J :j. j ' , , - . . .. > :) ■■) i ; - . ... :■{> . i : . ’ ') -3 ’ : '/) ' . . - ) - :o ■ r ' ► ' .* - - * ■ ; . u,*. ■ r >< ; , v f ! '■ • - - . • . ‘ - ; v . . • . .V . : i .. ; ■ 4 ■ . . 1, ....V I .. ■ .<• 33 Vi;-. ■: - 3 .. ;V '• , ; a ■ ■ ■ . ■ . • . . " j ' ... . <_,•* -J • * * ■ ■: . - ... ,0 :VXi • ... . . • i :.) i, * r . , .... ..... . . . - : ■ ♦' . ; h J ..... y 1 »_ r . . v , .) u.is ' ...... ... . ■ \ . •' ' i £' . Rode 30 miles across a flat country; camped on a cedar where we had a view of the strange and fantastic cliffs to the north { so© sketch book } Sept, laths Made a long march to DeMotte Park, ce U.1 ICalbab plateau* Pass the Piute camp, entered the plateau canyons and soon reached the shallow, grassy swales of the upland. From a barren sage plain we passed into a region of pines and lovely aspens > of grass and flowers . Chilly evening. Bodfish. and party cam©, Iaa, . sulc- *^v Iaj s-b', C %r x '^ .. Uj-u is 6U Sept, XOtfis 'Soft emp for a point on eastern brink ** U tJSJ plat a an. Three hours through aspen groves and grassy swales. ; saw door and grouse. Camped on a pvoimntorj that overlooks t vast, red desert of the Marble canyon - altogether a scene long to bo remembered. The Faria plateau, B&vesho, Henry and LaSalle mountains , the latter 200 miles away, the Echo cliffs aid the marvelous canyon are all in view. , * 2 /%"1C o>a ‘ " * " 4 > CiJUu UrtM ""vy Made panoramic sketches and returned to camp in the park. Sept. 21st: Made sketches of aspens . In the afternoon whole party went down to Thompson f a Springs < Sept. 22n&; Rode down swale five miles and came out of woods upon the brink of the most marvellous canyon, the bottom of which could hardly be seen and the side walls of which were won- derfully carved and colored (see sketch). Sept. 23rd; From Thompson * s Springs % way of Bodge Fool to Point Sod. Splendid vle-irs of the canyon on the on# h®ict and of the beautiful woods on the other. Stone enclosures and pottery observed. J • » : ; ■' "•> . A '■••.v J v '» • ST ' ” ...'V f t ' t’ Cf ■: '■ ' r s 4 » .. •V C.U I -• " ) N., , "'I / i ; : >■ ■ ' > • 'j -* • ' • •* '-V- fJ*n %. V*' •• : '■ • «•* .■ i - y • r *« ♦ .. •• ■- V ! 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' ‘ - * • '• ■ • ' ■' ' r j _ . . . } p ■ i ' , ' I ." ; V .. : .. . •* ,J ' - ' .; r ; ; " f - - n- ’ ’ ? 'v : ; K* . ) - ' r v. - > . . >;.a ; * ; .... .V . ... .4 • ... ■ * ‘ '• S : ' ‘ • .*,r -if is.?. • • ft* • S ’]•/« ' • \ ' ,.._ N Jr .. :i r '•v J ' ■* «• . • V , j- •• « J . A J.:' . . .. . i 1 ■> ^ • i . - '■ >4 ' V- tv.- .S : .v })\- v . i . JJLU I '. -. '.A,''- »• • '' ’ -as • -• ' / 1 .. .. <' V . ; . j ,r oiio' to ♦ > do Sept* 24th: Sketched with greatest pressure from sunrise until half past three mruelo ns but to a and, most interesting geol- ogy, He turned to Sedge Pool .12 miles. Sept, 25th: Pas sod through forest and parks to Thompson -e Springs , to hlho: Springs and afterwards with two mm end a cook tarried, on to Point Sublime. Arrive before sunset and bad a glance at the grandest, the most extraordinary panoramas in the wide world. Sept. 26th, 27th & 20th: Sketched from simrise to sunset except while at meals and until nine o ? clock the morning after - Sept. 29th: He turned to the park. Sept* 50th: Whole party set out for camp. Omnped at Big Spring. Ihe aspens are finer than ever* The lea-res are like gold a nd play about the white branches anti trunks like the golden head dress of a Trojan, queen about her shoulders.. Oct. 1st: Marched across country to within 15 miles of Kanab . Oct. 2nd: Did some geological work. Discovered a largo ruined pueblo on a low butte by the Mormon meadow, Iluch pottery of great variety, arrow points, standing atones and piles of debris. Oct. 3rd: Revisited the ruined pueblo.. Oct. &th~8tha in camp In the Sansh region* Oct. 9th: Crossed Short Creek to c amp in a grove under southeast base of a long, toothed butte* Glided to the saddle and had a glorious view of a glorious sunset on the Temple of the Virgin and the scarred cliffs and lofty domes about Little lion ? alley . Oct, 10th: Had a chilly day 1 a sketching the panorama across the Virgin River in strong colors and rich effects . "Oat. llth; Descended tc- the Rio Virgin by a winding road and enjoyed the charing panorama of the Virgin cliffs . Oct, 13th ^ Fanned down the Rio Virgin to Virgin City Wonderful Bad Ltoad cliffs of the perm ian. Rode out upon Hurricane Ledge to the south anci had a fine view hack into Hock Hover * s land# painted recently by lb ran. Descended to the Vi rgin and camped a little to the north of Lever ker Greek, Get, 14th Made sketch of sand hills and ledge , Passed through Toquervill© and camped on the divide at the head of Ash Creek « Sketch of rocks and lodge at Be lie View* Sketch of palm yucca, Oct* 15th; Rode on to Summit in the face of an Arctic wind. Oet * 16th; From Summit through Faro wan to within 12 miles of Beaver • Oct, 17-th; to Port Cameron* Took dinner and breakfast with Major Cous© and Captain » ' ' " • >r f f-- # ' ' . Oct* 18th; Travelled by jerky to Milford* . Oct* 19th; To Salt Lake by rail. Spent several days in Salt Lake City, going out throe days with Prof os cor Gilbert to male sketches of geological subjects, Oct * 24th s Take train for home. •. f ‘ - ' . . . ' ’ ” > f ' . • . 1 Returning to Washington from the Grand Canyon trip with Captain Dutton, October 89, 1680, I tools up actively writing and office work of the Hayden Survey, carried forward my studies of - tht, evolution 01 ornament, utilising especially pottery decoration. - - \ \ • ' t ■ ^ ' i.:’ r ' . ' i ' / . J : ;I ; V:. - > .!: •• &'*V; j ■ , • ■' ' N v rv r.» ' n ■ - - | • l . txilV $£Jt% f : J.> \ , ./■ ' ■ : : ' -• . . t., .? .;. ; 1 : - ' " / : ; - v . . / : -o ' ?. ; ; i • ' . • - ' -■ . . ' . . ■ .o .. ■- .. • ’ t ■ „ ' " - ' - l - ' , ■ : / : .. ; . e 1 .; ■ - - - . - ... t . - ■ ■ ' ... .. ■ ' . < ■ • i * , . '• ' - ■ . 1 ■ .. ^ . '. ‘ i V * •! , • •- • 1,1 ' W ■ ' "■ 1 ' - ' ■ ' ' • . v ':. •• s - . . : . ^ ^ " • ■ * . : — 3 Took part in antiquity of men investigations. Superintended illus- trationsand engraving, the preparation of the Dutton^ atlas , manage- ment of publications and accounts for the Survey. Publications in hand “were those of Hayden, Goues, Cope, Allen, St. John, Grote, Hoffman, Yarrow, Packard, Schufeldt, Gray and Hooker, Dutton, ,-i vv4 Scudder , , v Lesquereux; in nearly all cases closing our final pub- lications of the Hayden Survey of the Territories. The publica- tion work was very -complex and besides I had charge of the busi- ness of the Survey generally. December 18, 1880, received from Dr. Hayden in Philadelphia 6 / ' ' > notice of ray appointment to succee d Go ues in charge of th e Su rvey. Coues, who had been out West for some time, is said to have felt pretty sore. Continued in charge of this work during January, February, March, April, May and June, the note book utilised for this writing closing June 24, 1881. {S.—'jp. 'if ' v ( - $%• ■ f v /> , x ■ i i f ' I ' f * ^ _ , , , . ; VAX t / ' V V v-\ v v L , c XL 'Nf v v ^ ^ l ., ^ ; -^ rv ^- y 0uiMHi ^ ( ^ W U ^‘'f Uw- € V' :vv ' x - "i C^-^t x % CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON Soldier and Geologist. Born in Wallingford, Conn., May 15, 1841; graduated in arts at Yale 1860; first Lieutenant and afterward Captain Twenty-first Connecticut Volunteers 1862; Second lieutenant of Ordnance. -,U. S. Army, 1863; First Lieutenant 1867; Captain 1873; Major 1890. As an officer of volunteers he was engaged at Fredericksburg, Norfolk, Cold Harbor, Bermuda Hundred, and Drury T s Bluff. In 1884 he was elected a member of the National Academy of Sciences. As an ordnance officer he has contributed to the literature of gunnery, and also written on the metallurgy of steel and on economics, but his more important publications are in the field of geology. In 1875 he was detailed to assist the U. S. survey of the Rocky Mountain region, under Major J. W. Powell; in 1879-80 he was Secretary of a commission charged with the investigation of problems connected with the U. S. land system; from 1880 to 1891 he was a member of the U. S. Geological Survey. Among- his geologic writings are TT Geology of the High Plateaus of Utah,” (Washington 1880; ”Tertiary History of the Grand Canon District” (1882); "Hawaiian Volcanoes (1884) "Mount Taylor and the Luni Plateau" (1886); and "The Charleston Earthquake of August 31, 1886"(1889). t " • 1 , . - ' i . > ■ - . ' ' ’ . . i "% S ' • , - : ' .-'l ' ■ ' • ' ' ■ , ' * ' . . ■ ■ . . DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY DIVISION OF THE COLORADO / y ^ r - , V / >7 >■ ‘ 1 18 . t> ^ 1 J is — _y *7 / ft'' 1 -' /? / y c s* - n s ^ the base of m, having the 1 spent the 3 of the Uin- t / - - * > , /pf /-jjp ^ ^ -y / ^ / -7 ,-Z^aL / ' *c- 3 Kaibab, and / md our sen- /'J 7t ^ >-*-r L 'f r ' 1 ■* - , le scenery of ’ * y* 7 ^ — •*andeur and ■" *' /■ , ./ ' / , / >jected against • v *' : # fed into com- / / A )nward the walls . 7 ; x>wer • At length id, beyond, the i into the desert / ^ y^ire one for this ' i f„ ■' s' y f y ^ 77 r /y y .-h' y y**- - -- sr , and just >r. A sullen and the first >h snow. Heavy fading their fleeces over turret and crest, and sending down curling flecks of white mist into the nooks and recesses between towers and buttresses. The next day was rarer still, with sunshine and storm battling for the mastery. Boiling masses of cumuli rose up into the blue to incomprehensible 4 « 1 *> - — — tS!{ — ari ' i ;i ■ THE VERMILION CLIFFS. _ / 3 y £ ,&*AZl • v " >- 'Vk i- ‘ ^ > > v ■' ■ ,' ‘ 1 ' ,.; > J - :>,f i ' I , 1 t J l : / n i / -, . .' ■ .■ ' - 1 ■ ‘ ' «/ y* f * . 1 . V.I , ' ' . ■ J , - - - r . j: ; i-l y ' j - ' , J r. :> : u : : .... .. ■ v .. . _ :• ... ... j ' I - :3 / ! ' - ;; ... : ' o . ; J . ; *£ 0 ■ y . . v? .. y ■. . . ; : . > i . : f r -.j -i . V . XX ■ J j>{ 1 u : J :./ o?;. ... . | \ J £i. .. . - ) i ., ... : ' . J ... . .. J 0 J ' ■' ' ' brjvoux ew SB J url aoBlt&qmoo otU * l :orl c, rO i ) l .. • * : o; [ : , ; . : , , : -1 cJ .. CJ '■ ■ i >■ .i ■>t , , J ;j.i - M: ... . : vO-u *yl l ^ . ; ':) J , . t . , $ .*j — ■ ■ . .; " 2 ' ' ' J' ;v ' ; t% 0 • - 1 * 9 l< . ..;. t i . - J .; L ' , ' i . ■ ; . < - 1 ' -• : - ■ J - _ ■ ’’ \. ... ■; . ; 'j- ’■ C 2 ,r'“ p r ■ ' ■ A i $ “ ' y ■ V ’ X. -»• - - : ’ ' ;. ..V - . . : . 'I. ■ ; • -i - I 1 .) Io • 'G ; s .- * ■ *■ : ’ eta .'"J’:’? o^ryr.Xr: J roi : : I ;J j S ■ i - ; r j . . ; . » -f V. 'I > ■> : J ;; ■;> ■■■ ’ 3 ; .-. :') .■•' ... ; ' • ■ - . - - • • - " -o' } ■ . irri- /Xcf : •; i . -*)■. - ?). { or •; . .. IL heights, their flanks and summits gleaming with sunlight, their nether surfaces above the desert as flat as a ceiling, and showing, not the dull neutral gray of the east, but a rosy tinge caught from the reflected red of rocks and soil. As they drifted rapidly against the great barrier, the cur- rents from below, flung upward to the summits, rolled the vaporous masses into vast whorls, wrapping them around the towers and crest-lines, and scattering tern shreds of mist 'along the rock-faces. As the day wore on the sunshine gained the advantage. From overhead the cloud -masses stubbornly withdrew, leaving a few broken ranks to maintain a feeble resistance. But far in the northwest, over the Colob, they rallied their black forces for a more desperate struggle, and answered with defiant flashes of lightning the inces- sant pour of sun- shafts. Superlative cloud effects, common enough in other coun- tries, are lamentably infrequent here; but, when they do come their value is beyond measure. During the long, hot summer days, when the sun is high, the phenomenal features of the scenery are robbed of most of their grandeur, and cannot or do not who 11 y reveal to the observer the realities which * render them so instructive and interesting. There are few middle tones of light and shade . The effects of foreshort- ening are excessive, almost beyond belief, and produce the strangest deceptions. Masses which are widely sepa- rated seem to be superposed or continuous. Lines and ' • -V. " , .• • 3 ^ • - r ! . . , r ■ t 1 ' , ■ . - " • ■ ■ ’ . . . ' ' ! : " V: : : ’3 O'. 3 •/ f ' - ' ' . . : • ' 3 " ' - ' 3 ' V *] ' • ' 1 ' 0/ -fool 3 : ! . . •. f ' ' .... J' ' V ' - . . ■ , J: . ’ *. x t dcX •• • X. *• . . • - 7 < j c i 3 i : ' •> > r ‘ ■ , . • • v-:ii / f cc t&o . ' - - ' l 1 3 . ,. f - f 1 \ •; ■' , ... : ; . ", - [ U ■ O r-r 3 ' : rxl f rors . : ■> io: : ; x r J.- . X ; ■' i *, -'3 ■i 3 o Jon r J . — • i> - .•v.::>., 3 .; f ,c - • • ■ J' . ) . , yo E . •• * . 3 v r> r\ T -■ - . . • i 3 v; '--‘.. 3 . n<. ■? ■ i ;3 " r .c : t ' 1 ' : '> ). 3 ,..< i - , i » ' . . ' . ■ -c ... r •, . ' ■ ■: . 1 ua >r t ; •, j jt ■ &u r ■ ll 8 , - • ' V .o .. v . . , - . . ■ ‘ . : .. • . . .o [: ... ... ■ - '3 .' 3 , : - 5 . I ' , ' . i • ' , - . i ■■ ' ; , ... . 3 : . : . ‘ f... •: .33 j c % .■ - ■ ■- • . . . . - 1 ' " - ■■ 1 : 1 surfaces, which extend towards us at an acute angle with the radius of vision, are warped around until they seem to cross it at a right angle. Grand fronts, which ought to show depth and varying distance, become flat and are troubled with false perspective. Proportions which are full of grace and meaning are distorted and belied. During the midday hours the cliffs seem to wilt and droop as if retracting their grandeur to hide it from the merciless radiance of the sun whose very effulgence flouts them. Even the colors are ruined. The glaring face of the wall, where the light falls full upon it, «* wears a scorched, overbaked, discharged look; and where the dense black shadows are thrown- -for there are no middle shades--the magical haze of the desert shines forth with a weird, metallic glow which has no color in it. But as the sun declines there comes a revival. The half-tones at length appear, bringing into relief the component masses; the am- phitheaters recede into suggestive distances; the salients silently advance towards us; the distorted lines range them- selves into true perspective; the deformed curves come back to their proper sweep; the angles grow clean and sharp; and the whole cliff arouses from lethargy and erects itself in grandeur and power, as if conscious of its own majesty. Back also come the colors, and as the sun is about to sink they glow with an intense orange-vermilion that seems to be an intrinsic luster emanating from the rocks themselves. But the great gala-days of the cliffs are those when sunshine and storm are waging an even battle; when the massive banks ' I - ' v a ’ : ■ . ' u ’• : , T : j fio i ' ■ ' •; 2 ' f u- : . ’ . ^ - \ ■' ' ; r ■ : v ' : . : .. ' ■ ■- - • - - . i S 1 ton ■ I > ■ ' /. - 1 ■ ■ , a . i . I 3 i • V ' * ■■ ’ ■ ' '■ ' ' - v--> " ! ■ ■ ' * . ■ V ' • V '■ : ! ; £ fac ■ erf . • X B leitil'O ' . • -i: , .. C: *' : . v • . rii ai . ■ " * , fc ' ■ ' 1 ; . ■ ^ ■ ; ' * - • / l ■■ - 1 , v' ' - •V--;, •.**< ■ s r'Vi ' •, ; ; ; ; , ■ ■* ._ i, ; - , v • ' ' of clouds send their white diffuse light into the dark places and tone down the intense glare of the direct rays; when they roll over the summits in stately procession, wrapping them in vapor and revealing cloud- girt masses here and there through wide rifts. Then the truth appears and all deceptions are exposed. Their real grandeur, their true forms, and a just sense of their relations are at last fairly presented, so that I the mind can grasp them. And they are very grand- -even sub- « lime. There is no need, as we look upon then, of fancy to heighten the picture, nor of metaphor to present it. The simple truth is quite enough. I never before had a real- izing sense of a cliff 1,800 to 2,000 feet high. I think I have a definite and abiding one at present. As we moved northward from 8hort Greek, we had frequent opportunities to admire these cliffs and buttes, with the conviction that they were revealed to us in their real magnitudes and in their true relations. They awakened an enthusiasm more vivid than we had anticipated, and one which the recollection of far grander scenes did not dispel. At length the trail descended into a shallow basin where a low ledge of sandstones, immediately upon the right, shut them out from view; but as we mounted the opposite rim a new scene, grander and more beautiful than before, suddenly broke upon us. -he ci if i again appeared, presenting the heavy sandstone member in a sheer wall nearly a thousand feet high, with a steep talus beneath it of eleven or twelve hundred feet more# Wide alcoves receded far back into the mass, and in their . I oxi i GO X ; 3 • * , x i .. ; • 0 no 3 iO c ' ; o - ., , •* l/O • / 0 .' r V of -ox Vi go • v voo J •' -.*• f -- . Jf + * • , . ■ X o I :VV ■ : *- T -■ ■- ‘ .tv-Y . C ‘ o -'V- v o: , , ,;i i ■ , ■ - > - " ’y o '■ ■ - 0 go ' o : ..1 . 0 l : * Ono.i. o.'o : o ■ - ■ ! , 'GO ' 0 O l'- ') I ‘Or 'GO : g . Jo \ c ,v o - ,-f -i ’ . , . ' -i- ■ * ( . « " . ; o : ■- ; o ' . J loo ,x -i or; o,o loo o no c- V . Of V , i ■ V .' i : ■t. o.y' 0 1 bo: • 0 " Goo % , ‘ * g , 0 .. £ : o .../■ ,Vo ; G r 2 o :.i - ■: ; •; if D 2 bst ol 0 , V * ", ■ ■ * \ : ■ :■ , tv ;V ' G 0 ... : o .. W 0 X B ‘ l . 1 !, 0 - : o.o X o.oo. - vo,,. r; o// j o; 0,0,2 0 - 0 : ; ■ u • : ; 2 '■ ■■ ' ■ ’ ■ ; • - ;o, 0 o ■„) 00 . ;, ' no go.-. o ..... ' ,loo, g.oo ' - r *0 J 1 .Vo Vo .• ,, ■ go/: g-gx-, ; V- -:>i o - o ; . . ' b ■ V o " ' •• - ' ’ . ,.,-x 0 01 , , VV-- t& 6 " Gr,*o;,:,K> . . ' 0 . 0 : .. , ,. , '■ ■ : ' . ni - i depths the clouds floated, Long, sharp spurs plunged swiftly down, thrusting their monstrous buttresses into the plain below, and sending up pinnacles and towers along the knife edges. But the controlling object was a great butte which .sprang into view immediately before us, and which the salient of the wall had higher to masked. Upon a pedestal two miles long and a thousand feet high, richly decorated with horizontal moldings, rose four towers highly sugges- tive of cathedral architecture. Their alittude above the plain was estimated at about 1,800 feet. They were separated by vertical clefts made by the enlargement of the joints. and many smaller clefts extending from the summits to the pedestal carved the turrets into tapering buttresses, which gave a graceful aspiring effect with a remarkable definiteness to the forms. We named it Smithsonian Butte, and it was decided that a sketch should be made of it; but in a few moments the plan was abandoned or forgotten. For over a notch or saddle formed by a low isthi&us which connected the butte with the principal mesa there sailed slowly and majes- tically into view, as we rode along, a wonderful object. Deeply moved, we paused a moment to contemplate it, and then abandoning the trail we rode rapidly towards the notch, beyond which it soon sank out of sight. In an hour ff s time we reached the crest of the isthmus, and in an instant there flashed before us a scene never to be forgotten. In coming time it will, I believe, take rank with & very small number \ y " , Urtt it ‘ r - '« * • -i ■' * - ■ i 1 . ' * ■ ‘ • V" ! ■ , ; . * ' : :■ ii :r - , •->it dot . > / ; ; v j .. 'j ,b ■ • 'j--'..'. .... . . t • •>*) ■ LU i. . * - ' v . * >i. x . I ■* r j jj T ' • J' . . : :X i : j ■ .,r . , ' ; . . [ rf Jl a /c ■ ■ • ' . Li ■ . .... !.n:: “'i ■■ •; ; r ' >~t f- - r ■ ! v " ; ., • .. - . > 7 ■’ 'TT$ • . r ... r: ■ : . ..) . ; .1 ■ ■?. *;> ’ ■ : . ' . >■; ' . - - . ; > : : - r •' X 1 • -- 11 : : ■ : , ..... . , . . • ' ?:) ■ 0 Z , - - I’ 3 v/ J £ A r : . > ■' : • , ; . . C riw . . . .. ■ '(): •: . . £ WO." . . -35* ; : . : ; \ bo LI 3 'X : s nr on' j “ X- ~ : v: •* - - ’ j •' / ' 1 » f c *>, i r i : * rt • 4 : r r 1/ r 1 { . i . o .• J ■ J, 1: :,'--.nr.\ ox C' ' v, . - - ' ■ t bmiic j 0 ' ■ : . . ■ • .* t - t. ■ • » ’ 4 •- V >V4 M./ L{ W lPw aa /-*0 , -{ ~ * ■i , • - , ■ ■ ) : u■ ■ y « ■■ i fifi wmm along the front of the Vermilion Cliffs, northwestward as far as the Valley of the Virgen, and thence southwestward to view the country in the vicinity of the Hurricane fault, and to the west of it. Thence we journeyed northward, along the western or drop- ped side of the Hurricane fault, and on the 23d of October, we reached Fort Cameron, at the town of Beaver in Utah. Here the laborers of my Immediate party were discharged and I returned without' delay to Washington. During the past winter and up to the close of the fiscal year ending June 30, 1661, I have been occupied in the preparation of a monograph on the Tertiary History of the Grand Canon District. The maps have been completed by Mr, Bodfish and Mr. Re ns ha we , the former having delineated the Kaibab division of the Grand Canon and the surface topography of the southern part of the Kaibab Plateau, while the latter has drawn the map of the Uinkaret Plateau. iMr . Holmes has redrawn the sketches of the Canon and adjoining regions, and the materials are now in the engraver's hands, as are also the maps. The manuscript of the monograph, is very nearly completed. )) /■ W. H. H. Extracts from the UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY J. W. POWELL, DIR EC TOR Ctn-W-vv .-t t^VKj 'IumcL' RtK 4 TERTIARY HISTORY OF THE GRAND CANON DISTRICT (With Atlas) By Clarence E. Dutton Captain of Ordnance U. S. A. The frontispiece in color and most of the other illus- trations are by W. H. Holmes. (v-ul **4 5 O— O—O — 0-0 —0 —0 I't £4 tJ . v 4 4 V •>- |V so'\ l . 4 ■ - ■ ' . .... : • ' ' \ ' § • 7 ‘j ii,- ■ .1 i i f' 1 S ’ • 1 ' 2 ■ ' . ■ • ■ . EL TOVAR, GRAND CANYON, ARIZONA FRED HARVEY May 8th, 1909. My dear Kate: I reached this charming place yesterday noon and have had one day of interesting exploration of the rim of the Grand Canon. It is a grand and astonishing affair and I wish you could he here to see it and to stay a week or two. The hotel is tastefully placed and "built, and no better accommodations can he found anywhere. Today I shall spend with a party of Santa Fe Rail- road Officials and Forest Service Agents in looking after a proper location for the Powell monument . Tonight I am off for Los Angeles, about 24 hours journey. As grand as all this is I would rather he with you on the little farm and I shall hurry hack as soon as my duties will permit. I had some of the Survey folks with me on the way out and find plenty of friends here. Lined last night with Harvey, proprietor of this plant and of the great system of restaurants of the Santa Fe, and with seven others. Hope you are well and well settled in Holmescrof t . ■ : ' > " • . ' ’ ’ ; S 1 ' _ v ' . : ' ■ ■ f ■ ' ' ■ ■ . ./C- . ’ ' : ; ; . , ; " ;; >£S0‘ : i 4 dl • V#CU -••s ' $ $&§ Igp4 ' v .® ' * fli JJtf ' . ■ ■■7 ■ ",••• ■ : .;n;j / .. V; V - , ■ ' . : ' ; v-./ .. , t : vd . . ; • <;:£ '::Sd'i { \ ]' j; * ; ; ^ ;.i5 f \. VM. . [ ■ . ■ - t : . »* •• : A'i , -• ^ ‘s ' V - r v * ■ - •- • , . •5t V *■< » ■ • V * ’ 7-^ • . - ■ . ■ it- '■ - - ' . - ' ■ ”1 ha ve come here to see the Grand Canyon of Arizona, because in that canyon Arizona has a natural wonder, which, so far as I know, is in kind absolutely unparalleled throughout the rest of the world. I shall not attempt to describe it, because I cannot. I could not choose words that would convey or that could convey to any outsider what that canyon is. The only word I can use for it is awful. It filled me with* awe such as 1 have never before known. It is beyond comparison; it is beyond descript ion. M ■Copyright by Fred Harvey U A Gigantic Statement for Even Nature to Make All in One Mighty Stone Word. Wildness So Godful, Cosmic, Prime Bestows a New Sense of Earth’s Beauty and Size.”- — John Muir Copyright by Fred Harvey The Celebrated Jacob’s Ladder on the Bright Angel Trail The photograph shows how broad and safe are the Grand Canyon trails. There is no danger in the descent ' \ »5 i' V ^ Xi 1 Memorial Just Erected by the Department of the Interior to Major John Wesley Powell It stands on the rim at Sentinel Point. Upon the altar which crowns it will blaze ceremonial fires CLOSING OF THE YORK OF TH3 HAYDEN SURVEY Off THE TERRITORIES . 1880 After my return from work with Major Dutton in the Grand Canyon Region, I took up the difficult task of closing up the unfinished work of the Hayden Survey of the territories ■which was largely financial and editorial. I had especially the work of putting through the press publications of important volumes by Cope, Shm*f eldt , Grote, Coues, Hoffman, Soudder, ILesquereux and Yarrow. I had gone to the Canyon with Dutton without definite appointment on the Survey and the regular appointment by Secretary Schurz on December 5, 1.880 was dated back to my assignment with Major Dutton. Ten thousand dollars was allowed me for closing up the affairs of the Survey. JL c-H' .w-r f " a i f j A \ ■ ir A'' -1 •*«*.•- 'W* I • - k I Y .... ******& * % c r.c , .. : , . ■ ■ - ■ V 1 ; / . . ±\ v 7 ’ - f £ 1880, 1881, 1882, 1883 The closing weeks of 1880 and much of the year 1881 were largely employed in the drawing of panoramic views of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, the greatest achievement of my mountain-climbing period* air eady described. Attention was also given to the preparation of the maps which, associated with the panoramas, make one of the most conspicuous publica- tions of the Survey. The panoramic work of this period was very much admired by Dr. de Hargerie, a French geologist, and many years later, 1921, he presented me with a splendid panor- amic view 1 in colors of the Alps, twenty-four feet in length, which later I turned over to the Geological Survey. Be Margerie desiring to confer upon me an especial favor, had me made an honorary member of the French Alpine Club in 1926. During the year 1880-1881 I had charge of the closing up of the business affairs of the Hayden Survey which had been discontinued by Congress in 1879. Field work ms thus brought to an abrupt olos e, but a number of members of th© scientific staff were still engaged in completing important reports on their respective researches during previous years. It happened that there were about ,-10, GOO available for this w©r&. These reports had to be finished and put through the press, and since the wr iters ware scattered over the country the correspondence required proved quite a burden. Prominent among the scientists were E. D. Cope, Dr. Elliott CoWes , 7 0 o Orestes St. John, 0. 0. Marsh and Dr.^/gO'g Hewb^fy. At the same time I had a number of my own unfinished papers and reports to look after, some of which are referred to by Dr. Powell in his introductions to the reports of 1881 r 1882, and 1885 of the Bureau of Ethnology. Copies of these notice? are included herewith. It is not inappropriate that I should mention here that in 1885 I courted and married Miss Kate Clifton Osgood, I of whom a notice published on the occasion of her death is { "h' wh 5 ] here introduced* he wb ^ a handsome woman, as her portrait shows , and very talented in many directions, art, fr~y\ | ® ^ i 'i ’ ' ' literature, A l-j > ; 2'/** 1 f/ " teaching and lecturing* I my note further that at this particular time I occupied a studio in the Vernon Pew Building corner of Tenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, always before me, as I sit at my desk in the Museum, top floor . My view is up Tenth Street and over the roofs of the sheds of the country peoples’ market* Tenth Street is the chicken market and where calves are butchered, one of the vilest spots to be found in any city, and the country market is of the same dis- reputable sort. large Government build ings planned this year, 1926, are expected to occupy this area as soon as they can be built, and uhe market as a whole Is to go elsewhere* ^ V {_ w 2- >, < fy 4 -eo-t. . ^ -t (j-s- si'* ^u. (Uru~u--t*A^i % rt-v^a t • b W O^J L / t _ r \A : : J~'i , f fol c^L; v>*-- ^ 1 ! ' ’ ' p.o t ■ V e - *4^*, 1r. >r . H v-vk p iff-jr .. ___ ' V'-Fj- ? -M a *>- ' 5 • *3. , *4 jf-'rv i-'k / “? - fi , v /I ,. v • j ? i O ^ j y / w i i-.? IU »•- WU. \ ^ u ^ ,p*' i. * -JL -■» ^ ■£■*»*%**,- / - {0 , *" • •'? ■>* H4 X* c- t , 1 /M - f ,> .. oCLk- \ - ■ . , ' . r ' ' . 1 tO ' . • , . i l / ■ ■ . ^ ^ VrtA etlisMs Lari' «4 3 a , 2^ i' 'VH^- A* uAv^wU frv». a. As-v-4-J. **- >-v=-^Sfr»-^L.. w •..!..•<■•/;} !■*• ^ J ®Ml * j J^w€* H: • • c ,. *;•' (t */“” * U,.* - /f- ja/ r .:!'; i j _ §Ha. A^<- HOLMES TOWER, GRAM) CAN YOU OF THE COLORADO "Further explorations have since been made under the direction of the United States Geological Survey while Major Powell was its Director, and as a result Cap- tain Clarence E. Dutton has published one of the most interesting monographs ever penned by a specialist. Its title is "The Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District and it is accompanied by a large atlas containing admirable pictures, etc., of the Grand Canyon region, - from sketches made by Mr. W. H. Holmes, the accomplished field geologist, artist, archaeologist, and writer, now in charge of the Anthropological Department of the United States National Museum. No praise bestowed upon these gentlemen, for the fidelity with which they have described this marvellous rock region, can ever be adequate return for the pleasure they have afforded those who have enjoyed the fruit of their labors." ("In and Around the Grand Canyon," by George Wharton James, p. 35) 1908. \ * . IS & ■ \ " ■ _ ^ ■ ; • ■ ■ . ■ ■" : • ’ ■ : J ' . , ■ .... .. ; / v. ,'V 0 ./ ■ *: ■ : • HOLMES TOWER Tt To the north and west of Shiva Temple is a massive square rock-pile which I have named Holmes Tower, after that most genial and accomplished scientist in so many branches, Mr* W. H. Holmes* Geology not only owes him much for his charming drawings, which embellish Captain Button 1 s canyon report, but archeology and ethnology are his great debtors, as a cursory survey of the reports of the Bureau of Ethnology will reveal. And it seems most appropriate that one of the great canyon monuments, which stood almost under his eyes as he sat on Point Sublime making his inimitable drawings, should receive his name. "West of Confucius Temple is another great butte which is named Becker Butte, and between this and Holmes Tower, at the western extension of Shiva Temple, is Russell Butte, so named after the geologist who traced the beaches of the prehistoric Lake Lahontan. Beyond Russell Butte, and al- most due west of Becker, is a square red tower named Gannet Tower, after the man whose topographical work has made world-famed the maps of the United States Geological Survey. ( "In and Around the Grand Canyon, tT by George Wharton James, p. 92. (The Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in Arizona. ) tJ * , 1 • ! ^ , Jtf ' : . - ’A, . • - , . - ... . . ' 7 ■' ’ ■ ' ■ ... , " /" >V ■ V”: ; ■ :: '7 ' ' ' 'M ^ ' ■' - * ■' ; ! •• .. ' : ■ . \ •' ' ’ ; ' - ■■ ' ■ « ;. = .■•■ ' •- V - ; ' . ' . . c; «• ’ * : ' ; -i - • ' r ■ i i < ■ . ■<* ■- 1 I TRIBUTE TO MEMORY OF MAJ. C. E, DUTTON Army Officer Who Achieved Distinction in the Field of Science. * lit V *■ ' -fl ■ Ma j . Clarence Edward Dutton of the bureau of ordnance, U. S. A., who died at the home of his son in Englewood, N. J., Thursday night, was well known in this city. He was a graduate of Yale, where he received the degree of A. B. in 1860, at the age of nineteen years. He served in the civil war, and in 1864 was transferred to the ordnance department of the army. His scientific studies, which began at the W&terviliet Arsenal, took two directions -one toward vertebrate paleontology , the other toward steel. Assigned to Washington in 3.872 . About 1872 lie was assigned to this city, where he met Prci . nenry and Maj. Powell, who increased his interest in geology and finally secured his detail to the Powell survey in 18 iO. Eg made a special study of the high plateaus of Utah the Grand Canyon of the Colorado and also of Mount Taylor and 2 » the Zuni plateau, writing three large monographs of these subjects, which were published by the geological survey. Scientific men of Washington, among whom he had many friends, say they remember best his paper before the Philosophical Society on the '’Greater Problems of Physical Geology. 1 ' in which he pro** pounded his theory of isostesy to explain the folding of rocks and the oscillations of the earth’s crust, Maj. Dutton early became interested in volcanoes and visited Hawaii to see volcanoes in action that he might the better under- stand the extinct or hearly extinct ones of our own great volcanic field on the Pacific coast'* The Charleston earthquake in 1886 was the subject of his special investigation and report for the geological survey . Since his return to military duty and retirement he has published a most interesting and comprehensive volume on "Earthquakes in the Light ol the new Seismology."' His last contribution to Science, "Vol- canoes ana Radioactivity," was read before the Natural Academy of Sciences in 1966 3 • Maj. Dutton was a member of many scientific and other organizations, including the Philosophical Society of Washington the American Geographical Society, the Academy of Political and Social Science , the Geographical Society of America and the National Academy of Science „ At the end of five years he was transferred to Prank” ford Arsenal , Phi lade Iphia , and thense to Washington, Do C® Being cut off from immediate contact with steel, his thoughts concentrated upon geology, especially upon the physical side of the subject* He became a member of the Philosophical Society of Washington in 1672, and became acquainted with Professor Henry and Professor Baird, who took great interest in him* .through the former and Major Powell he was induced to consent to a detail for duty with the Powell Survey, beginning May 15, 1675* PANORAMA OF THE GRAND CANYON I joined Major Dutton on the survey of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado on my return from Europe in 1880, and the result of my work during the season is embodied in the Atlas of the Grand Canyon district, I made the pencil drawing in three days and this drawing in pen with a color print over it is reproduced in the three sections of the Dutton Atlas of the Grand Canyon district. MEMOIR OF CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON BY J. S. MIXER Major Clarence Edward Dutton, one of the first seismologists of his country, widely known for his reports on the Charleston earthquake, the high plateaus of Utah, and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, was born May 15, 1841, at Wallingford, Connecticut, and died January 4, 1912, at Englewood, N. J. His parents were Samuel and Emily (Curtis) Dutton. At Ellington, Connecticut, he received his preliminary education, and in June 1856, entered Yale, where he graduated in 1860 with the degree of A. B., at the age of nineteen. April 18, 1864, he married Emeline C. Babcock, of New Haven, Connecticut. MEMOIR OF CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON 11 He was appointed adjutant of the Twenty-first Connecticut Volun- teers in September, 1.862 , and the following year, March 1, promoted to captaincy. In 1864 lie was transferred to the Ordnance Corps of the Regular Army, and served through the remainder of the war.. While assigned to the Watervliet Arsenal in 1865 he began his scientific studies, which, as lie informed me, took two directions, and both were pursued with ardor. The first was invertebrate paleontology, under the guidance of Hall and Whitfield. The second was the study of steel, in cooperation with Alexander L. Holley, of the Bessemer Steel Works, of Troy. At the end of five years he was transferred to Frankford Arsenal, Philadelphia, and thence to Washington, D. C. Being cut off from im- mediate contact with steel, his thoughts concentrated on geology, espe- cially on the physical side of the subject. He became a member of the Philosophical Society of Washington in _1872, a nd met Professor Henry and Professor Baird, who took great interest in him. Through the former and Major Powell he was induced to consent to a detail for ..duty with the Powell Survey, beginning May 15, 1815. He devoted jnn years to the study of the great plateau region of the West, and published his results in. the three reports entitled “The Geology of the High Plateaus of Htah” ( 6 ) / “The Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District” (7), and “Mount Taylor and the Zuni Plateau” (16). The plateau region of the West is remarkable, not only for the simplicity of its geological phenomena, but also- for the variety and the enormous scale of the exposures. Dutton’s general conclusions are summarized in the closing chapter of the report on Mount Taylor and the Zuni Plateau. Although contrib- uting much to the geological history of the region, he evidently dwells with greater pleasure on the physical problems, and remarks, in describ- ing the facts, that “not a trace of systematic plication has yet been found there,” referring especially to the Zuni part of the plateau region. “The terras anticlinal and synclinal have almost dropped out of the vocabu- lary of the western geologist. The strata are often flexed, but the type of flexure is the monocline. “The country at large shows no traces of a widespread, universal horizontal compression; on the contrary, it discloses the absence of such stress. We seem here to get nearer to the real nature of the process which has built the mountains. Shorn of that extreme complexity which confuses and bewilders us in more highly developed structures, the great central facts and the true essence of the mechanical processes involved become much clearer. The moun- tains of, the West have not been produced by horizontal compression, but by the action of some unknown forces beneath, which have pushed them up.” 1 The numbers in ( ) refer to list at end of this article. 12 PROCEEDINGS OF THE NEW HAVEN MEETING tm The greatest problems of physical geology, according to Dutton (21), are : First. What is the potential cause of volcanic action ? Second. What is the cause of elevation and subsidence of restricted areas of the earth’s surface? Third. What is the cause of the foldings, distortions, and fractures of the strata? The first two of these he regarded as being without satisfactory expla- nation, and for the third he proposesd a solution in elucidating his theory of isostasy. After having shown that the contractional hypothesis is quantitatively insufficient and qualitatively inapplicable in explaining the folding of -the earth’s crust, he presented in a modified form and greater detail the theory propounded many years ago by Babbage and Herschel. It was pointed out that the unloading of the land by erosion and the loading up of the sea floor by deposition resulted in a force which tends to push the loaded sea bottoms inward upon the unloaded land horizontally — a force of the precise kind, that is wanted to explain the origin of systematic plication. This view of the essentially isostatic condition of the earth, for which he invented the name isostasy, has been in recent years most ably advo- cated, and in fact practically demonstrated, by Prof. John F. Hayford. 2 Dutton began the study of the volcanic problems early in his geological career, and his first papers in the Geological Survey (4) pertained to volcanic products. In his study of the plateau region he had abundant opportunity to observe an extensive and profoundly interesting series of complete and dissected volcanic as well as plutonic masses. In 1882 he visited the Hawaiian Islands to study Kilauea, Manna Loa, and the other great volcanoes of that region (12) before beginning his survey of the great volcanic field of northern California and Oregon, where in 1885 h e made a special study of Crater Lake and recognized its similarity to the great calderas of Hawaii (18). He returned to military duty in September, 1890, and went to Central America and Lake Nicaragua. Hi^ 189_1 2 while on duty at San Antonio, Texas, he made frequent excursions to the volcanoes of Mexico. In 1899 he was recalled to duty in the office of the Chief of Ordnance in Washington, and on February 7, 1901, at his own request, was retired from active service. One of Dutton’s most notable contributions to science recognizes grav- ity as an essential factor in causing volcanic eruption. He was much 2 The figure of the earth and isostasy. Coast and Geodetic Survey Report, 1909 ; also supplementary investigations. Coast and Geodetic Survey Report for 1910, and isostasy, a rejoinder to the article by Harmon Lewis. Journal of Geology, vol. xx, p. 562. Sept.- Oct., 1912. / i fti' /&?/ IQOI MEMOIR OP CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON 13 impressed by Richthofen’s order of succession in the eruption of massive rocks, beginning with propylite, a rock of intermediate composition, and followed by two series, one a lighter but less fusible acid series ending in rhyolite, and the other, a heavier though more fusible basic series, ending in basalt. By a comparison of the chemical composition, density, fusibility, and physical aspects of these igneous rocks with one another and the lighter rocks up through which they were erupted, Dutton was led to the conclu- sion that “it is the gross weight of the overlying cover of solid rocks which presses the lava upward through any passage where it can find vent” (page 131, Geology of High Plateaus), and that the succession is a double sequence determined by density and fusibility. Concerning the origin of this view in his own mind, Dutton remarks (footnote, page 131, Geology of High Plateaus) : “It was when I was contemplating the great distances traversed by slender basalt streams in southern Utah that this theory suggested itself to me. I had no doubt that such lavas must have been ejected at a temperature much more than sufficient to melt them. This seemed to contrast powerfully with the habits of trachytic masses. It occurred to me then that this high temperature might be absolutely essential to the eruption of so dense a rock as basalt, while a considerably lower one would suffice for lighter rocks. Immediately the higher melting temperature of the rhyolites and trachytes suggested itself, and almost as quickly as I write it the theory took form in my mind and the double function of density and fusibility associated itself with a double se- quence.” In a letter October, 1911, he writes : “The subject of volcanoes and volcanic action had become of paramount in- terest to me, and I resolved to grapple with the problem. All existing theories seemed to me insufficient, and I became a confirmed skeptic as to the cause of volcanic action. “From 1875Jx> 1885 I continued to labor with the problem, but could only conclude that the cause was the local accumulation of heat ; yet no reason for it appeared. For a time it seemed possible that the intrusion of basaltic masses among the sedimentaries might lead to chemical reactions which would furnish the necessary heat, as Prof. Reginald A. Daly so ably proposes in his recent theory of volcanic action. But after long reflection I could not accept that view, and concluded that as science then stood a solution was impossible, and it would be necessary to wait until some discovery should put another face upon the subject. “A discovery of prime importance — that of radioactivity — was made in 1897. which seemed to furnish the explanation of the necessary amount of heat near the earth’s surface.” His final conclusions on volcanoes and radioactivity were presented to the Hational Academy of Sciences, April 17, 1906 (26). 14 PROCEEDINGS OF THE NEW HAVEN MEETING Dutton made a special study of the Charleston earthquake in 1886 and devised a new method of ascertaining the depth of the earthquake focus, and measured with greater accuracy than ever before attained the rate at which an earthquake wave is propagated. His isoseismal method of com- puting the depth of focus involves the determination of two critical points : First, the epicentrum, and, second, a point on a radius from the epicentrum at which the intensity of shock diminishes most rapidly. A line drawn around the epicentrum through the points of most rapid change of intensity Dutton called index circle, and pointed out that the focal depth is the product of the radius on the index circle multiplied by the square root of three. The Charleston earthquake had two foci. The depth of the Wood- stock focus he computed to be twelve miles and of the Rantowles focus nearly eight miles. The determination of the index circle, as Dutton himself recognized, is a matter of difficulty, and the conclusions must be regarded as only approximate. Concerning the rate of propagation, he remarks (22, page 211) : “After a careful study of all discussions of this particular problem, based upon the observations made in other earthquakes, I have no hesitation in de- claring my opinion that the result from the Charleston earthquake far out- weighs them all, and that all preceding determinations of this quantity are wholly invalid or wide of the mark.” The average speed of propagation of the Charleston earthquake Dutton determined from three groups of observations to be 5,184 meters per second. He devoted much consideration to the nature and mechanism of the earthquake wave motion. After his retir emen t, with abundant time at his disposal, his active mind was much employed in the further study of volcanoes and earth- quakes. His„ lates t publication on the latter subject is a book entitled “Earthquakes in the Light of the Hew Seismology,” a most comprehen- sive, instructive, and useful contribution to popular knowledge. To quote his own words : “Chapter_I_ sets forth the nature of an earthquake according to the modern concepts. It defines the technical terms used in discussion, and describes the action taking place on the surface of the ground during a quake of great energy. Ch apter II is a general discussion of the causes of earthquakes. Two causes are recognized, apparently quite distinct, though possibly they may have interrelations not yet recognized. The first cause is A-olcanic ; the second is that force which is presumed to be always active in disturbing the rocks which form the outer shell of the earth, resulting in the building of moun- tains, the folding and shearing of the strata, and the elevation and depression MEMOIR OF CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON 15 of the earth’s crust. Thus we have two groups of quakes, volcanic and tec- tonic. They have in many cases distinct characteristics, and these are de- scribed in chapters III and IV.” The more important instruments used in seismometry are described in chap ters Y and VI, and chapter VII discusses the details of seismic vibratory motion and explains the four kinds of waves with which the inquiry deals. A chapter (VIII) is given to the amplitude and period of vibration, and two chapters (IX and X) to the subject of intensity. The chapter on the variation of intensity points out the method of computing the depth of origin of an earthquake wherever observations sufficient in num- ber and accuracy can be obtained. “The speed of propagation of seismic vibrations is then treated (XI and XII)_. No specific problem in connection with earthquakes has been more* dili- gently investigated, and few are so difficult as this. It is only very recently that definite results upon this question have been reached. The chief trouble lias been the great complexity of the waves generated by an earthquake, their different rates of propagation, and the difficulty of separating one kind from another. Nor was is known until recently that some kinds of waves are propagated through the earth-mass, while others go around it. “Since the speed of propagation depends wholly upon the ratio of elasticity to density, it becomes an index of those properties in the materials which compose the earth’s interior. Chapter XIII is given to the discussion of this aspect of the subject.” Xfif The subject of earthquake distribution or seismic geography is treated in two chapters (XIV an d XV ), and the final chapter (XVI) is devoted to seaquakes. As an observer, Dutton was quick to grasp the comprehensive, though not overlooking details, and in the field gave most of his attention to the greater problems. As he puts it (Sixth Ann. Rept., page 198) : “I am fond of viewing the facts observed in the field in their relation to broader and more general facts, and of marshaling them into their proper places.” His method of work in preparing his reports was determined largely by his strong imagination. He made but little use of field notes except- ing for figures. Shutting out all other matters from his mind, even to the neglect of personal correspondence, and without preparing a written plan or preliminary draft, he read much and discussed with his col- leagues. He held the subject wholly in mind until his problems were solved and results fully attained before beginning to write; but when ready he penned all his own manuscripts rapidly under the stimulus of 16 PROCEEDINGS OE THE NEW HAVEN MEETING an enthusiasm begotten by a consciousness of his comprehensive and com- plete knowledge of the subject. Macaulay was his favorite author, and doubtless had much influence in forming Dutton’s style, which is perhaps best exemplified in his “Ter- tiary History of the Grand Canyon District,” where he remarks (page viii) : “I have in many places departed from the severe ascetic style which has become conventional in scientific monographs. Perhaps no apology is called for. Under ordinary circumstances the ascetic discipline is necessary. Give the imagination an inch and it is apt to take an ell, and the fundamental re- quirement of scientific method — accuracy of statement — is imperiled. But in the Grand Canyon district there is no such danger. The stimulants which are demoralizing elsewhere are necessary here to exalt the mind sufficiently to comprehend the sublimity of the subjects. Their sublimity has in fact been hitherto underrated. Great as is the fame of the Grand Canyon of the Colo- rado, the half remains untold.” For years he smoked vigorously at his work, but in later life he de- sisted. At one time he became greatly interested in the matter of stamps and was employed by the Government to make its Centennial stamp collection. He gave much attention to the Far Eastern question, and for amuse- ment during the leisure hours of later years he wrote a book on China, but it did not reach publication. His mind, well filled with readily available knowledge on many sub- jects, gave him unusual power as a conversationalist, and he was fond of discussion, especially with his compeers, G. K. Gilbert and W. J. Powell, the other members of a devoted trio, of whom in acknowledgment he generously remarked, “If I paid them their intellectual dues I would be bankrupt.” Though somewhat austere, Dutton had many friends. He was a kind, lovable, generous man, with high ideals and an intense hatred of shams. His last message was: “Farewell to my old friends on the Geological Survey.” It is said “he knew the end was at hand, and he met it calmly like the philosopher he was. Apparently he just fell asleep.” He died January 4, 1912, of arterio-sclerosis, at the home of his son, in Englewood, Hew Jersey. His wife, Emeline C. Dutton, still resides at the same place, but his son, Clarence E. Dutton, is now at Edgartown, Massachusetts. Major Dutton was a member of many scientific and other organiza- tions, among which may be mentioned the Philosophical Society of Wash- MEMOIR OF CLARENCE EDWARD DUTTON 17 ington, the American Geographical Society, the Academy of Political and Social Science, the Geological Society of America, the Seismological Society of America, and the National Academy of Sciences. In his writings Major Dutton had a most vigorous and impressive style. His choice of words is of the best — euphonious, simple, but full of force and interest. His phraseology is direct, winning the attention of the reader and holding it throughout. He may be justly considered one of the best writers of popular geological science of his day. BIBLIOGRAPHY OF MAJOR DUTTON’S MOST IMPORTANT GEOLOGICAL PUBLICATIONS 1. The cause of regional elevations and subsidences. Am. Phil. Soc. Proc., vol. 12, 1873, pp. 70-72. / 2. A criticism upon the contractional hypothesis. Am. Jour. Sci., 3d ser., vol. viii, Aug., 1874, pp. 113-123. 3. Critical observations on theories of the earth’s physical evolution. The Penn. Monthly, May and June, 1S70. (Reviewed in Am. Jour. Sci., 3d ser., vol. xii, pp. 142-145'.) 4. Report on the lithologic characters of the Henry Mountain intrusives, in G. K. Gilbert’s report on the geology of the Henry Mountains, 1877, pp. 61-65. 5. On the Permian formation of North America. Abstract, Wash. Soc. Bull.. vol. 3, 1880, pp. 67-68. •'—* 6. Geology of the high plateaus of Utah. 1880. United States Geographical and Geological Survey of the Rocky Mountain region. J. W. Powell in charge. 307 pp. and atlas. __ pT 7. Tertiary history of the Grand Canyon district. U. S. Geol. Survey Mon. 2, 1882, 264 pp. 8. Physics of the earth’s crust, by Rev. Osmond Fisher. Am. Jour. Sci., 3d ser., vol. xxiii, pp. 283-290. 9. The physical geology of the Grand Canyon district. U. S. Geol. Survey, 2d Ann. Rept, 1880-1881, 1882, pp. 47-166, 10. Recent explorations of the volcanic phenomena of the Hawaiian Islands. Letter to J. D. Dana, dated Washington, D. C.,' Feb. 8, 1883. Am . Jour. Sci., 3d ser., vol. xxv, pp. 219-226. 11. Petrographic notes on the volcanic rocks collected by W. H. Holmes in the Yellowstone National Park. United States Geological and Geograph- ical Surveys of the Territories. F. V. Hayden in charge. 12th Ann. Rept. (for 1878), part 2, pp. 57-62. Washington, 1883. 12. Hawaiian volcanoes. U. S. Geol, Survey, 4tli Ann. Rept., 1882-1883, 1884, pp. 75-219. 13. The effect of a warmer climate upon glaciers. Am. Jour. Sci., 3d ser., vol. xxvii, 1884, pp. 1-18. 14. The volcanic problem stated. Abstract in Bull. Phil. Soc. of Washington, vol. vi, 1884, pp. 87-92. 15. The volcanoes and lava fields of New Mexico (abstract). Wash. Phil. Soc, Bull., vol. 7, 1885, pp. 76-79. 18 PROCEEDINGS OF THE NEW HAVEN MEETING 16. Mount Taylor and the Zuni plateau. U. S. Geol. Survey, 6th Ann. Rept., 1884-1885, 1885, pp. 106-198. 17. The latest volcanic eruption in the United States. Science, vol. 6, 1885, pp. 46-47. 18. Crater Lake, Oregon, a proposed national reservation. Science, vol. 7, 1886, pp. 179-182. 19. The submerged trees of Columbia River. Science, vol. 9, 1887, pp. 82-84. 20. On the geologic nomenclature in general and the classification nomencla- ture and distinctive characteristics of the pre-Cambrian formation and the origin of serpentine. International Cong. Geol., Am. Com- mittee Reports, 1888. A, 1888, pp. 71-73. 21. On some of the greater problems of physical geology. Phil. Soc. of Wash- ington Bull., vol. xi, pp. 51-64 and p. 537. Read April 27, 1889. 22. The Charleston earthquake of August 31, 1886. U. S. Geol. Survey, 9th Ann. Rept., 1887-1888, 1889, pp. 203-528. 23. Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. Macfarlane’s Geol. Railway Guide, 2d ed., 1890, p. 323. 24. The crystalline rocks of northern California and southern Oregon. Congres Geol. International, Compte Rendu, 4th sess., pp. 176-179. London, 1891. 25. Earthquakes in the light of the new seismology, 1904, pp. 314. G. P. Put- nam’s Sons, New York. 26. Volcanoes and radioactivity. (Read before the National Academy of Sci- ences, April 17, 1906.) Pamphlet, 12 pages; published by the Engle- wood Times, Englewood, N. J., for the author; also Jour. Geol., vol. xiv, pp. 259-268, and Pop. Science Monthly, vol. 68, pp. 530-543. June, 1906. . . ' / . ■ VOLUME V SECTION III ? 1884 Trip to Mexico with Mr. and Mrs. Chain and W. H. Jackson, photogra- phers . IHust rat ions . . a ■ . ,.-iii8s ■ ' ■ * ■ TRIP TO MEXICO UOUL-iL. C t Ui] ’ \ ./■ *■ '- (■ * rv\_ 1884 In April, 1884, the monotony of home-staying and office work were broken by a trip to Mexico as the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Chain who had the privilege of using a special car, which, with W. H. Jackson, photographer, we took at fV -A El Paso, Texas. The Chains also were photographers, and Mrs. Chain was a painter in oil oolors. It was a delightful excursion of two months, with visits to Mexico City, Puebla, Zacetecas, Chihuahua, Oaxaca, Texcoco, Cholula and other places of note, and gave me the opportunity of studying peoples, museums, ancient ruins and the great mountains. The photographs herewith will give a good a, idea of the car, its accommodations and the occupants, I had the opportunity of studying the present arts of the people, gave attention especially to pottery making and looted into the fabrication of imitations of old time wares. ' -- ; ■■ ■ . • '■ cr . ■ . . i f ' , . . . d ( Cej LEGACION MEXICANA, WASHINGTON, D.C. PEjSTCEK F. BAIRD, SECRETARY, 9 CHURCH Off THK GUADELOUPE, MEXICO (.fixtraot from a letter to Mrs, Holmes) ^ kt two o* clock Jackson and I set out for the Ohurch of Guadeloupe which lies on the north side of the valley against the foot-hills a mile or two from the city. We took the street cars up to the Grand Plaza thence by another line out across the flat fields to the north. It was a charming ride. The street cars here are well managed. The cars them- selves are shipped from Hew York or some other northern city in our purest Castilian if this were the car for Guadeloupe and were answered ”Si, Senor. ,T We rattled along at a break- neck pace drawn by two mules, first down a picturesque street with old palaces and churches on all hands with markets and pulque shops and all sorts of stores open. The streets were lined with people — some dressed in our own fashion, but nearly all in the simple costume of the country. The poorer nearly all are poor — looking awfully like Indians, the which they really are, and hardly less rough, dirty and pitiful than the wildest pai-ute. They are sitting on the side walks, in the streets and in the gutter, talking, pre- paring the rude tortillas or cakes or selling some small articles to the passerby. They grind their corn on a big ’’metate ' 1 like the pueblo Indians, knead their dough and bake the greasy garlicky mess right Yrtiere they sit. The men wear a shirt, a broad straw hat and loose pants of white muslin. and the tracks are extremely well ' . « , •: .. . . -- i * « * ' •i ^ .• . . f • ) * • , . . i :■ I ' » ' i £ 1 ,1 d f - r i 1 :: : r e i . »■ •. • .. : • u.; L . _ * - 2 . . •o ;r ; ' « • « . V W } • V . I " - * : ; •• • < ■ JM Flocks of them go along carrying huge loads like this poor little starved donkeys with loads big enough for wagons, like this; or drive An Azteo Donkey and more interesting than all, the professional water carriers trot along from the fountains to their patrons looking like this -- one great canteen upon the back and a big pitcher in front. The straps across the head. You can imagine how fine they are. The women are not so good. They are squaws in calico — what little they have of it. Most of them are so — with' a baby — f t The babies may have clothes on or they may not -- ad lib. But I must go on to Guadeloupe. We passed out into the country with green fields and trees and dirty canals. At the end of a long avenue we could see the Church with four steeples and a dome -- all of a rich and ornate character. Behind the church on a high hill was a little chapel, just like many old Italian examples. We passed around behind the church and by a curious zigzag stone stairway climbed up to the chapel. Prom the front door we could look down upon the steeples, domes and flat roof of the great church and out over them, across the plain, to the city and the lakes and the mountains beyond. We gr eat were unfortunately amble to see the /Popocatepetl on account of the mists. It was hard to realize that this was the famed valley of Mexico where the Aztecs and Toltecs built their teocallib and sacrificed their human victims, where Cortez came and conquered, where Scott and Taylor fought and won and where poor Maximill ian suffered death - Well I Mexico, o/29, 1886. W. R. Holmes, Smi thsonian . Dear Mr. Holmes: I have said "yes" to Prof. Baird’s proposition but cannot cross the Rio Grande until May 10th or 11th. Father Fischer is very much out of humor because 1 offered to take 5125C. 00 but I would rather get that from the Smithsonian than hold on the hopes of getting twice that sum from pri- vate party, later. Thanks for the Science and your article on the Monoliths of Teotihuacan. I took a quiet pleasure in show- ing Barcena and Sandrez how they had permitted a disciple of "original research" to have the honor of throwing some 1 1 clear light on the fainting stone" question. After reading your article no sensible man will have any doubts on the matter. I was out to the Pyramids last week, to see what Batres is doing. He is a fraud - has done noth- ing but manage to get himself interviewed about twice a week. He is not only a fraud but a swindler. The only rock crystal skull of any value is the one I got in the Fischer Collection. Well, Frenchman named Boban - who has a private museum, here - and is a member of various French Societies and seems to be very intelligent, al- though not honest, brought from Germany a glass skull made to imitate rock crystal. Batres pursua.de d him into a part- nership to defraud the National Museum, by selling it as genuine rock crystal from ^rizaba for $3,000. Sanchez was on the point of buying it but first had Dr. Kaska ex- amine it who at once pronounced it glass and the two busy B’s are under a cloud. Ad ban has closed his museum and will remove it to New York, soon. Look out for him! He hopes to se^l a great many tilings to the Smithsonian. H e has some valuable antiquities but his ownership of them gives them a suspicious character. He has for example a magnifi- cent collection of the immense iron stirrups used by the Conquerors . Father Fischer thinks you are a little too sweep- ing in your condemnation of the black ware. I stumbled upon the factory at Teotihuacan where the modern stuff is made. But Fischer says that this art is handed down in certain families from father to son for generations and that the makers themselves cannot tell a piece 5C years old from one 300 years old, as all re made pre- cisely alike. Bill you send Father Fischer a copy of your Monoliths? He has read mine and is greatly pleased with it. He also asks to be remembered with the publications of the Bureau of Ethnology if it can be done. He borrows mine to read and hates to return them. He is one of the most 'learned men in Mexico and can make good use of his books. Yours as ever. /s/ W. W. Blake ■ . t' , - ■■■.:• . . . ■ . ■ - . . ■■ ^ ^ | °)vv Ok-A.- 1 ' f. I / ■ *N '* ~* ■4 ‘ A«- ■ ■ . % a .3 o a 1 ) u bo p rH a 5 «- 4 H O c/3 a o u bl) (n • S*^ ^ a - 4 -> .tb Ch rt aj ^3 ni « ■S 3 ai 3 3 >> ^ u -»-> c/3 |> 3 CL) 'a b ^ c/3 I ^ 3 5=1 ^-, -a .£3 3 Cv! O 4h r~! ^ ' C ' CTj £ K’V 5 h Jh O > a 3 * s (D ‘S - £ < S ‘rj ^ y. 4=> CL) ^ «HH - 4 -> ^ O O q CL) O ^ (/) fl M a 3 CD CD ^ rH £ 2 CD 33 C/3 CD I £J 2 1 U CD CD KK • - «i> •r *• >. f ■ - V . 4 ‘ ' ■ . ' ' ' ■ ■ :p--: > - «* ■ • n ■ • ■ . . ■ '.‘.ill i:' ■ k:; ■ .' ! !«a if ' :!» W • • 3*4 • • - ■■ - ■ . ■ . 1 - t - > • > - ' ' ■ ■ li u . ' m ■: . - ■ 1 1 •• . ! The year 1884, after my return from Mexico, and the succeeding year, 1885, passed without any particular thrill or event of importance other than the current expositions. The work of exploration and preparation of reports and of special papers was kept up and carried forward as usual, as briefly indicated in the extracts from the annual reports of the Bureau, copies of which are enclosed herewith. All may be found in extenso in the reports of these years, and in ♦ . certain other publications. v <&*■ 1 dkt/*“4. cA"v TkHlW l Ptd VOLUME V -87 In Rooky Mountains with Langley and Powell. Adven- tures and Disaster. Ancient Ruins. The Mother Squirrel and the Snake. The Bear Story. Remarkable Scenery. Arr'i-t'-tl , . * si . - ' ». - - . I' ' Vc # . A ■ * ■ ' f ’ ■; ■ . . . \ i -v > „ > U ■ . :V ■ ■ ' AIG BIOLOGY A HD ADVEBPUKE I-T PHS JjgttEg MQUHlTAIffS , SEW USX ICO !j^ ctJ- 1886-7, 1887*8 i The closing months of 1386 and the first six months of 1887 wsr8 devoted to the continuation of the archeologic and other work begun in preceding years, utilizing such por- tions of my time as were not absorbed in work, pertaining to the U. S. Geological Survey. A paper on the antiquities of Chiriqui and one on textile art in its relation to form and ornament, prepared for the Sixth Annual report, were completed and proofs were read* During the year work was begun upon a review of the ceramic art of Mexico* A special paper, with twenty illustra- tions, on a remarkable group of spurious antiquities belonging to that country, was prepared and turned over to the Smithsonian Institution for publication* In addition, a preliminary study of the prehistoric textile fabrics of Peru was begun, and a short paper with numerous illustrations was written. As in former years, I superintended the preparation of drawings and engravings for the Bureau publications* The number of illustrations pre- pared during the year amounted to 660. \%%7 Early in August I had the good fortune to loin a party of Smithsonian and other folks for a period of study of the tribes and ancient ruins of New Mexico and Arizona* In the party were P. Langley, Secretary of the Institution, Major Powell, Director of the Geological Survey and Bureau of American ethnology , James Stevenson, Powell’s right-hand mao, Victor Mindeleff, young Mr* B lack, Mr. tarmac, Po?/ell's secretary, and myself. The party established a permanent camp in Sac Diego Valley or Canyon, a tributary of the Bio Grande, Hew Mexico, fifty miles west of Santa ]?e, with the village of Jeaez near by and the Jemez Mountains rising on the west. The members of the party were soon separated for carrying out their respective researches. I had the pleasure of examining fifteen important ruined pueblos and village sites. They correspond closely in type to those previously examined farther north and bear evidence in most cases of pre-Spanish occupation. Besides the larger village ruins there are a multitude of minor ones, small houses and lodges of stone, scattered through the forests. I had previously carried my investigations of the ruins of Colorado and Mew Mexico as far south as Abiquiu, which village lies at the northern end of the group of mountains in which the Bio Jemez takes its rise. My work of this year, therefore, enabled me to connect the studies of the northern localities with those of the south, in which the numerous modern pueblos are situated. The chain of observations thus secured we expected to be of value in the study of the art products of the vast region formerly oc- cupied by town-building tribes. Particular attention was given to an examination of the ceramic remains. These constitute one of the most important means of developing the history of the pre-Columbian inhabitants and a large series of specimens was forwarded to the National Museum. (pages XXIX - XXX. ) ' Two interesting episodes of the work of the year in the Jemez region are recorded in letters to Mrs. Holmes: I TEE BEAR STOBY For a long way I rode up over an ancient village, then up sharp ridges among the timber until I came to a flat- tish timbered shelf that lies along the base of the final as- cent. Here at the elevation of about 1000 feet above camp I found many small ruins and some pottery. The final step of the plateau consists first of a steep slope up which I had to lead my mule zig-zagging back and forth over the rocks and slides. This slope ends against the base of the capping cliff which is in the main nearly vertical and from 100 to 300 feet high. It extends so for many miles. I hitched my mule on a little shelf at the base of this cliff and began to look for a place reduced or broken down sufficiently to let me climb it. As I skirted the base of the cliff to the right I hap- pened to look down the steep slope below and there, about 40 feet away, was a grizzly bear. He was nosing along and did not see me but he was going right toward my mule and I concluded very Quickly that that would not do for by going 20 feet further he would give my mule such a fright that he would break loose and rush down the mountain. I had no gun or pistol so I shouted "Boo , hoo," at him. He glanced up quickly and saw me, and made a spring away from me, facing down the steep slope. At this moment I picked up a big stone and sent it after him, flying. The result was too funny for anything. The mountain was very ' . . . f .. - .. . 1 3 * ‘ ' ■ ' _ ■ ■ , • ■ ■ J.; ; ^ - • '• ' • - > ‘ ■ ■ •*, . j-r . ; ' '• 4 : 1 tj :* £ ; ‘ 3* v . OL \ . I . ■ „ , . ' steep for a long distance below and covered with loose stones and scattering trees. Down this slope the hear plunged and the big stone and many other loosened stones after him, rattle, bang, crash, until the cliffs re-echoed the uproar. I never saw a beast made such time and the stones were more rapid than he and made enormous leaps until they caught up with him and both, with many added stones, went out of sight together down into a rocky gorge nearly half a mile below me. It was a laughable termination of the incident, but a good riddance of an ugly customer . I soon reached the top of the cliff by a very ticklish trail, pulling myself up by little notches in the rocks, and the gooseberry bushes that gro w in the crevices. I had a broad view of the valley and the surrounding mountains, made a sketch and cut my initials and the date in the rock that forms the ex- treme point of a projecting cape of the plateau and then, on ac- count of a thinder storm which suddenly broke across the plateau I hurried down to my mule. In the rain I pulled my mule by main force down the steep mountain nearly all the way to camp. Taking a different course from the ascent I encountered a cliff midway in the slope and had a hard time, going back again and taking another spur and getting into camp late, wet and tired. The boys were quite excited that a bear should be so near and wanted to go on a hunt. ? f ? K* V- - . f *»»! ; x.- ’ • <•' V r • . (7^—1/ CL** ■ >^£"«— 'jV^-fCt? 1T~ < ''^*~^ ^-7- . •< ' . ■ . . i ■' ■ . , ... • , . Y. '. Vv . .. ■ ' -i - . ■ , i. : * 1 "" ‘ ■ < , . ■ "■■■• > 5 . V ' ' . 1 ! WvrvX>- X ? ' I'' 'Photograph by S. it. Young, 1909 ‘ 1 ' RAINBOW BRIDGE FBOM DOWN STREAM Ihis first view of the Arch from its west side shows it in its most gracious and beautiful proportions. It is of red sandstom spanning 278 feet. Its apex rises 309 feet above its base. The Flatiron Building, New York City with three stories added, could stand beneath it. ( National Parks Bulletin THEIR “INCOMPARABLE SCENIC GRANDEUR “ Areas Whose Principal Qualification is Adaptability for Recreation are Not of National Park Calibre” By Stephen T. Mather Director of the National Park Service T HE national park system of the United States is unique both in its scenic exhibits and in the ex- ceedingly high standards by which each candidate for admission to the system is judged. As now constituted, it is made up of areas of incomparable scenic grandeur. Each of the major national parks was selected for park- hood because of some distinctive feature, either scenic or prehistoric, which is of national importance and interest. Under the policy governing the establishment of national parks, only one area of a particular type is considered for inclusion in the system, and each' area selected must represent the highest example of its particular type. “Requirements Are Exacting” The scenic supremacy of an area alone is not sufficient to gain it admission into the national park system. It must also be susceptible of whatever development is necessary to make it available for use by the millions of park visitors who may care to use it, without injuring in any way the extraordinary natural features which, under the expressed command of Congress, the National Park Service is to preserve “unimpaired for the enjoy- ment of future generations.” Areas whose principal qualification is adaptability for recreational uses are not, of course, of national park caliber. Proposed parks are measured by the standards set by the major national parks of the system; hence the re- quirements are exacting. As long as these standards shall prevail there is no danger of too many national parks being established, or of the excellence of the pres- ent system being lowered. A STATE PARK, INSTEAD North Dakota Offers an Example which can Profitably be Followed in the East T HROUGH promotion of the State Park Conference, the area in North Dakota proposed for the Roose- velt Memorial National Park is likely to be made a State. Park instead. One of the most vividly colored examples of the Bad Lands, highly scenic, possessed of unusual recreational values, nevertheless it lacks the quality of supreme beauty required by National Park standards; and several years of persistent effort on the part of its promoters have occasioned much worry to de- fenders of the National Parks System, who feared that its creation as a national park would tend to break down protective barriers. Public Sentiment Backing State Parks According to “State Recreation,” Governor Sorlie will investigate the possibilities of acquiring the area for a state park, toward which local sentiment is rapidly turning. This wholesome solution was largely helped by the example of South Dakota in creating Custer State Park in the scenically finest area of the Black Hills. The conference with Governor Sorlie, says the organ of the State Park Conference, “was arranged by Mr. E, Danielson, of Minot, President of the Greater Noi Dakota Association, and by Mr. James C. Milloy, Fargo, Secretary of the same association. Others | took part were Professor 0. G. Libby, Secretary of I North Dakota Historical Society of Grand Porks, a the Field Secretary of the National Conference on St Parks. Congressman J. H. Sinclair, representing t district including the Bad Lands, who has present bills in Congress for a National Park, also was presi at later discussions. “Governor Sorlie agreed to appoint a committee act for the State, and Congressman Sinclair promt his aid in Washington, looking to transfer of the rema: ing Federal lands to a State preserve.” Good Example for the East North Dakota’s example may well be followed by pi moters of eastern national park projects, almost eve; one of which falls short of the incomparable scei grandeur and other standards of the National Pat System. It is the opinion of many that a State park' distinction serves its State better than a national pai for whose lack of the necessary special standards 1 country is obliged always to apologize. Besides, the day of the State Park has dawned. Stal are ranking today by their number, size and important A NATIONAL PARK CREED By John C. Merriam President Carnegie Institution of Washington W hile the National Parks serve in an important sense as recreation areas, their primary uses extend far into that fundamental education which concerns real appreciation of nature. Here beauty in its truest sense receives expression and exerts its in- fluence along with recreation and formal educa- tion. To me the parks are not merely places to rest and exercise and learn. They are regions where one looks through the veil to meet the reali- ties of nature and of the unfathomable power behind it. I cannot say what worship) really is — nor am I sure that others will do better — but often in tht parks, I remember Bryank’s lines, “Why should we, in the world ’s riper years, neglect God ’s ancienit sanctuaries, and adore only among the crowd, anil under roofs that our frail hands have raised?! National Parks represent opportunities for wor- ship through which one comes to understand morj fully certain of the attributes of nature and ill Creator. They are not objects to be worshipped but they are altars over which we may worship. UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM UNDER DIRECTION OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON T 1 VIW 6 *Lv«, VflaAJi J.lttj. (rru^TpL^r^ | i . : ' :■ ' 4 . . . ' ' ■ I i ■ ■ . VOLUME V SECTION Appointment on Chicago University Staff. 1892 Work on Chicago Exposition* 1892-95 1894 Acceptance of Curatorship in the Field Museum, and farewell to Washington. Banquet and Loving Cup. OP THE PRESIDENT SJntbnsitj) of atijtcagci FOUNDED BY JOHN D. ROCKEFELLER Chicago, September 22nd, 18 94 Dear Sir:* I send you a programme of the exercises of the University during the Convocation Week of the Autumn Quarter, and add a cor- dial invitation to attend them. This invitation applies very especially to the University Convocation at which I trust you will find it possible to be present and to join the University FacuLty in procession and on the platform. The exercises will be held /a in the University Quadrangle, Qctdber first, at o'clock. The Convocation Procession will form at -h alf past three in the Walker Mu seum • Yours sincerely ■ - s . ' . I . ■ ■ •/ ■ . . . o S P. •• >, t ;v : ■ ■ 1 . ■ - ' ' ' ' . / ' ■ ■■- ■• » • •* **■ ' ■ ‘ ’ . . « % .,p V *. ■ ? . ■ SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY WASHINGTON, D. C,, June 8, 1894 My dear Sir: Your communication of the 20th ultimo tendering your res- ignation as Archeologist of the Bureau of American Ethnology, to take effect May 30, duly reached this office, but circumstances with which you are acquainted prevented earlier response. In accepting your resignation I desire to express high ap- preciation of your eminent services to the science of anthropol- ogy and to this bureau. Through your genius and enthusiasm American archeology has been revolutionized and thereby the sci- ence of anthropology has been greatly enriched. I greatly regret the severance of your connection with this bureau; but \ my regret is mingled with satisfaction growing out of the rec- ognition of your abilities. I congratulate the Field Colum- bian Museum on the selection of so able an anthropologist as the head of that department, and prediot for it a splendid career under your administration. Believe me to remain, with warm wishes for your health, happiness and success Yours cordially Professor W. H. HOMES, Field Columbian Museum Chicago, Illinois Director. EPARTMENT OF GEOLOGY T. C. CHAMBERLIN Head Professor of Geology R. D. SALISBURY Professor of Geographic Geology J. P. IDDINGS Associate Professor of Petrology R, A. F. PENROSE, JR, associate Professor of Ecor\orriic Geology C. R. VAN HISE ^resident Professor of Pre-Cambrian Geology C. D. WALCOTT resident Professor of Paleontologic Geology W. H. HOLMES resident Professor of Archeologic Geology J\\e UfWERSir/ of CHic/\gq Founded by JOHN D. ROCKEFELLER WILLIAM R. HARPER, President Chicago April m, 1894. My dear Professor Holmes: - I am in the receipt of your letter of April 17th, and thank you for it all. Mr. Skiff is out again, his attack having been sharp and short. I saw him yesterday, and he mentioned some photographs of statues yox^ had recently sent him and spoke very cordially of what you were doing. He said it is the under standing that you are to get here about the middle of May. I judge that he did not suppose that any further orders were requi- site. Of course I touch the matter only incidentally and ma«e no suggestion. The fact came out of the eonver sat ion , however, that neither the President, any of the Vice-Presidents, nor any member of the executive committee of the board of trustees .irb in the city. Formal action is, of course, impossible under these circumstances. Mr. Ayer is still in Europe, and I understand may not be here until toward the last of May. I think, however, this is not bssed on any definite information. I think it would be wisest for you to come right along on the understanding had. It . <-• ■ ' * ".f- »'.■ 7 . T ; *.x: ft' , , •’ VI r - * , ■ . : 0 i . ; • ... • ^ 1 .. - i f j f»fr t*;-J * - ■ ■»■«*? 1C: . t ( t 1 ** i fi . - rj*, - f .* 1* : . . s . ■ ■ f'V' J ' “ “ ■ I ■ t ' ' ■ ■ ■■ ■■ ■: ' ■ ■ , 4 ■ t 1*1 • ‘ ■' ■ J t> . vn . ■■ r.f ; ■ - ( 1 < . 3 tt t « . * 0 might be well to write Mr* Skiff reporting your plans so that all will fee a matter of record. What about BoazV Your coming lias been announced in the papers as indicated by the enclosed slip. Professor W, H. Holmes, Bureau of Ethnology. . ' . r • /"' T - i.’ ■ ■ ■ . . . ' ■ ■ t SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY WASHINGTON, June 9, 1894. Professor W. H. Holmes, Field Columbian Museum, Chi cago , Illinois. Dear Professor Holmes: Your recent note is at hand. It is a pleasure to know that your work is well under way. 1 was sorry not to be able to attend your formal opening, which, judging from press accounts, gives a good promise for the future. The Major has returned and is now domiciled on this side of the street and so far recovered as to be at work. I have pretty well concluded to publish your pottery paper by itself as volume viii of Contributions, putting the trephining paper in an annual, which can be done if the photographs are reduced « a quarter or a third. We all miss you. Your banquet reached the highwater mark of good feeling and enthusiasm; a week ago Saturday Riley* s friends joined in a farewell dinner in honor of his relief from administrative work, but, while the affair was pleasant, the flow of soul was much less free than at Willard's when you were the lion. Yours cordially, yfpfUWvi ' J 4 YTifl s, - ’ • ' ) O', . - ■■ - : »' . " irt'j : .,. • "-i.. • * ' jEftt’y * * * «* to- - r ^ JO ' "V 1 - ’**'-*7 b. •• i :c-.i H*’ ‘ > •? * . . ■ . v - V A~-» *A f l M.y , %iy « * * /?*% *■■££*■& . *■ i* ’ ■• * *' t y .r 1 1 • ■ ■’** + .. ■ j. •• • ••■ i \ i .• ■ :' .v. ■ vro',Ka\^cr.r:i r « * •> » ^ • / ■ ' < - r ; ^ ; r 3 .*•• « - } ... v v O, i »■«* '<. <•-£ vA/ .• ’v k *u */. -Ov, .. ... - *- r - ■ ■ . A ,-v ■ ■ * r ; -* '• .**?•' , i v. * : * ' ■ ’’X ( f ‘ *• • ' - ■*, . j; < ‘ . ‘ . T • ’ ' 1 < ~"0 o' .yfc v ' - r •": • rh : I,',. • O , ;. ■ O' o I o :: r. •••: . I ^ C/-J- >c/-- y **•<*■, y.. * ^ ' > '•JH.yfcoo .a i , ' ' ' ' T ' W . • ’.• . , ’ _ •/’ f. ‘ i ' ' I- ,i, r', ; t ■: i •; :* ; ; : - ...- . ro/i : j d i ■■ yjh ■ . & ri r- - ■ ' v ; . f. ,‘v . y • -•• • i?-. 1 * * .% • u • ^ ? . .. .... . • - - ;• • ' _>ife -O . f », ; ' > o 1 - o x : Cjjt^ 7 ■” .o;.loo •>.'» 'J 7 .v ? - "■ fv '■>' * 1 'V- ‘ , >• '• •. ... . : : * . ' ■ • ' v ~ l ; . ■ - ; ■ ' ■ ■ i ‘ ' ■ ■ . ' $ 1 d ' ; JB-.ft ; V ■' 1 . . - - , . : r ' -*■ ;•• - ‘ ■ ; .... - • •>’ V • * . a t . ' b .. $ ' .. | * ■ J -» ■■ ■ • ! , ? S-! ' *’ , V •*. i f * • 1 • f • • • • •- ■* w* . .. , - -1 V4 ,• .V * — - . .» 1 ? ' - f / v t j - . .• ' ...» . s.v ‘ 1 ' ‘ . . r-r r . >■ -v ."•-i {.. ■ ■ . * ■ -■ - • ; ! : : ■ ' ' 'v;. '•■ i O.S- W ' 0 ; , .-O 7 j- ; , ' T > , ,. • . ! • r ‘’ 1 " ... ' • ..^ ,-■ f » . ■ ••• . ,-xf.l ...J. . ... ... ‘ ...... • • ^ v> i ;. a. * ... , ; ^ j. .. ;■ * . -t - < : ■ nan. i l t • " • i i m . ©l.klw - • ..qv :o -o; ' r ■ •=w -1^,' ~ . - ' .0 0 H. 1 c y >s-‘ ' i} t ,n> y t o <-V /-» «• ' ..:> w‘ v *>' o • :o.or;: . 1 . *! .• ... O t '■ .1 .. . ■ ; . .. ..*.... ... . . i. ...... f . . , ... ..... . ..... ... ,. ‘i ,. ■" *3- : • v w A. ' r .. - ; ■. ,;.o j , ■•JO? i : OjT-',r - -o. - 1 i ?•••* (.’• • \S / MY APPOIimEM TO THE CHICAGO POSITION "Chicago, 111., Oct, 27th, 1894 "Dr. W. H. Holmes, Curator o f An thropology, Field Columbian Museum, "Dear Sir "In conformance with the instructions of the ISKecutive Committee, I hereby confirm your engagement as Curator of the Department of Anthropology at a salary of Three Hundred Thirty- three and 32/100 Dollars (.|333.32) per month, with the understanding and agreement that if the Museum desires to dispense with your services, such dismis- sal can only take place upon three months notice thereof, and on the other hand that if you desire to discontinue your services with and for the Museum, you shall give to the Museum three months notice of such intention. "Please attach your approval to the duplicate letter herewith enclosed as an indication of your acceptance of thi s co ntract. Yours respectfully, F. J. V. -SKIFF Director" t 1 ■ ■ ■ . * ' ■ . . - . 1 ' - - • V ■ rv$v r tevuiv Kc&w uvv<) c^Vv7v€*t^ j^ivr. Iff e-y irfCe- 'tMvv ie tiv fl * er)r i Our Ci^tvc) Q^^B^O^A^yS lft& 't'nx'Ci, y %^e eve e ^nv| vrv^ owr re e v t^f iow a|" ^ vb ,4> o^v) oV(i$~ -Tve- tATor^, utvs) ojj- exvr cJ^m ve^cvr^ a/Vvc) c^&cre) , *nv O^a^^OVV- e^|" fvr& ter Ci^jxvuve ^llv-e ^ ire eWr6 &vj> o| *tCe ejja ... if T P - f \ S' ? ■ I Institution and said he was "still to remain associated with us as an honorary curator." He congratulated Chicago, predicting success there and wishing Holmes many returns to Washington . Mendenhall responded to "Ohio — < the home of Holmeses!" and said many pleasant things about the state and the man. E. H. Miller spoke of Holmes 1 association with the artists of the city and of his work as an artist. Senor Zeballos (Minister from Argentine) read sever- al pages of interesting compliments, referring to Eolmes T work and sympathy with science, and spoke of the places in the -United States on the north and Argentine on the south where the scientist was doing work as important as that for- merly d one by the soldier. Mr. Curtis spoke of Chicago and its enterprise and hopes and the field for effort it affords. Mr. Wilson spoke of the early acquaintance with Holmes and his art work, placing him so high in this field as to overshadow his science. He could not speak upon this topic — TT Eolmes in archaeology, because of what Holmes had done to undo his (?/ilson T s) paleolithic man!" McGuire made a lively address, commending Holmes 1 work In high terms and bearing down upon Wilson. Gannett' said that a great topographer was lost to the world by Holmes 1 adoption of geology as his field of research. ■ ■$: • • jf ; <• , > , v ■ T V . - ■ ■ .«£•. i it 1 ’.'.' I ’ r ! Walcott said that geology had sustained a great loss when Powell had transferred Holmes from the Geologi- cal Survey to the Bureau of Ethnology. .Day spoke of his embarrassment as he was making his maiden effort as an orator. He spoke of Mr. Skiff, director of the Chicago Museum, and. of Holmes 1 qualifica- tions to fill the position accepted by him. Adler spoke of the relations of eastern and west- ern science, and said that we were not Americans but a colony of European peoples. * Mason addressed Holmes in a fatherly way, and de- scribed his work and his prospects in a most flattering manner . McGee spoke in laudatory terms and wished Holmes n Godspeed and a quick return! TT Walcott then, after a flattering reference to Holmes 1 character and achievements, spoke of the history o Wassail and the loving cup, and then brought out from be- neath his chair a beautiful two-handled silver loving cup and presented it to Holmes on behalf of his many friends. It bore the engraved inscription Holmes was then called upon and was greeted with much enthusiasm. He said that he could not do more than thank them for the great compliment paid him. He was % e * - 1 f greatly gratified and greatly encouraged. He had been feeling very desolate of late at the prospect of breaking the many bonds that bound him here, but he was now in a measure reconciled to the sacrifice, and would go to Chicago with cheerfulness -- indeed, that for the pleasure of this evening, he would even be willing to go to a worse place than Chicago. He said that he was grateful for the compliments- paid him, many of which were more than he de- served; that when he took up his residence in ,T the city by the lake” he would do his utmost to do credit to his Washington friends and to the Smithsonian Institution. i ■ "Auld Lang Syne” and ”He T s A Jolly Good fellow” were sung and partings followed. { XrrcQT Iption) muitmon r >» e* «ay 1D94 i ?sarata& to nilliw Hasty Halses by bit associates in sb# Saitfesotilas last Hat ion SS& tha U.Olt#€ &t$t66 GsalOflMl t;Sf?0| as a tQkm of their ©: ttm k COPY 1EGACION ARGENTINA WASHINGTON im Gentlemen : I do not if I will be able to tell you. few words in or- /■n der to thank you for the pleasure and the honor which afford to me the kind invitation to meet Professor Holmes. We are here, gentlemen, congregated in the name of the Science, and especially of the American Inter -Continental Science. I am not, however, a savant , but a statesman, who did expend a great deal of the best days of his life among 1 men of science, art and letters, because I did think always that it is a patriotic duty for the clear mind of the truth states- man to tender the due honors to the pioneers of all civiliza- tions and to the workers of the basis of all standing Govern- ment:- and they are the patient, modest and often heroic en- quirers of the fadts of the Nature and of the phenomena of the moral caracter of the man* The scientific career is quite an evangelic mission. You go behind the light exposing your health, or your life, fighting sometimes with the distress amidst the modern expensive society and cutting always to the happy and lovely hours of the home, the time required by the discipline of your duties. You are never sure as the glorious soldier is, of the 'bright and mater- ial reward from your country if you fall in the field of the work or of the investigations. Often the soldier of the Science ; ' .V •* . ( / « . : ■ , . ' • ■: : \ ■ : . " ■ ■ ' ■ • - •' ; ■ ■ ■ c : - ~ x l*. f . - - r X ri ■ . fight and fall without enthusiastic witnesses, in the darkness, because his language is not intelligible for the masses and the fascinating power of his discoveries seldom goes beyond the circles of few select souls. One of those brightest circles in your country gather now around Professor Eolmes, to who full Justice is so done, I know his work. The Old Ceramic, the stones modeled by wild artists, the Indian remains and its decorations and the geo- logical stratum, does speak eloquently under his investigations about the past ages, as can do the phonograph returning in the voice of the deaths. I hope his work shall enlarge its hori- zons in the Museum of Chicago. The time is just come in which we want to remember that the scientific responsibility of the New World belong to the Americans. We want to unite our plan of investigation since the North polar Sea controlled by the United States until the Austral Ocean controlled by the Argentine Republic, under the sar;;e ideal of generalization through uniform proceedings. Doing so it shall be possible to concentrate and to profit many actions which are now working alones , without guides, losing forces and results as the traveller strayed in the forest and engaged in the discovery of the truth path amongs the numberless and crossing footsteps of the wild beasts. It seems to me that few years of general and combined action upon the three Americas shall show us other and very important aspect of the past. That* aspect we could name: - , ■ . e L / , - - - T ■ ■ , ■ . ■ . - . "the simplification of many complexe and confuse ideas we maintain now in the fields of theory," Hemember for instance Professor Holmes address to the Anthropological Congress in the World's Hair, when he talk about the aboriginal languages, he referred to the question of the number of those languages in the three Americas, If we had previously organized the philological investigations through North, Central and South America we should have remarked per- haps that the number of the aboriginal languages is fewer; and. anticipating a personal theory, based upon my own inquires, that if not all, many of those languages are not far of a com- mon origin; and perhaps we shall find in not remote times, the unity of the original forms of the Inter -C ontinental wild lan- guages with tho.se differences, made necessary by the nature and general surrounding of each people. But I will not go so far in the confidence of my hopes • and I only would ask to you to toast congratulating our friend, professor Holmes, to who we compromise this evening to advance his work in Chicago for honor of the Science of the United States and of Himself, STANISLAO S. ZEBALLOS Washington, D • C* 16th May 94 ■ ' ■ ■ - 1 r ; ■ . • . : , - - - v.‘ r . , : a ■ 1 -4V0 1 { it i : .C*r. !• in _ \tifr* 0" ro JtfuV > \ . . - ■' - ' ' - LEGACION ARGENTINA WASHINGTON. LEGACION ARGENTINA WASHINGTON. y * ks £>Ct> ^ o/ ^ ^ /A^C ^ fe, &r /^U /&* A&yZyA*J2L ^i^C^t/ -^$lJL^^r *zx^JC) ^ L-^-r jA£z ftLe- ,'£L<^ C^-TL-ACA /i&Jl vA^l. . X ~Z*-G? ^ /AAaC-J 2-~- if-y>^^An/AiyA *J@ ^<3U^*n ^ ^ ^ 2 ^ yy^r /CA A^c. 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The banquet closed with a graceful acknowledgment of the honor paid him by Prof. Holmes, in which he declared that for the encouragement in undertaking his new work he would be willing to go to a worse place than Chicago. All rose and sang “Auld Lang Syne,” and a very pleasant Incident in the life of a deservedly popular man was completed. — J THURSDAY, MAY 17, — STA ft, AT PUty A- HOAOES FOR. PROF. HOLMES. A Farewell Banquet, With Speeches and Compliments. Prof. W. H. Holmes, who recently severed his connection with the bureau of ethnology to accept the position of head of the depart- ment of anthropology in the great Field Columbian Museum at Chicago, was ten- dered a farewell banquet last evening that . must have given him some idea of the pop- ular hold he has upon the scientists and artists of this city, among whom he has worked so long and so successfully. Prof. Holmes, who is both a scientist and an artist, has a world- wide reputation in his special field of work, and from the speeches made last night it was evident that his col- leagues believe that the big new museum in Chicago could not do better than it did in securing the sendees of Mr. Holmes at the head of one of the three departments of the institution. Covers were laid for nearly a hundred in the tea room of Willard's for the banquet last evening, and the occasion was marked by every evidence of good fellowship, albeit marked by more than the usual amount of regiet at losing a member of the fraternity of Washington’s learned men. " Mr. Frank Hamilton Cushing of the bureau of ethnol- ogy presided. At his right, about the tables which were beautifully decorated with flowers, were Prof. Holmes, Prof. Charles D. Walcott, Dr. C. Brown Goode, and on his left Senor Zeballos; minister from the Argentine Republic; Prof. W. J. McGee, W. E. Curtis and Di\ Cyrus Adler. The first speech of the evening, after the menu had been satisfactorily disposed of, was -made by Prof. G. Brown Goode of the National Museum, who responded to the toast of the scientific institutions of Wash- ington. He referred to his pride in enjoying the acquaintance of Prof. Holmes and to the fact that he was one of an original group of seven scientific investigators. Dr. T. C. Mendenhall of the coast and geodetic sur- vey followed him in a speech on Ohio, as the home of the guest, he himself hailing from the buckeye state. Other speeches were made by Mr. E. H. Miller, the artist, who spoke of the work done by Mr. Holmes as a water colorist; Dr. D. T. Day, Senor Zeballos, Mr. Wm. Eleroy Curtis, Prof. Thomas Wilson, Prof. Otis T. Mason, Judge J. D. McGuire and Prof. J. H. Gannett. Prof. W. J. McGee expressed the opinion that the dream of Jefferson for a great national university had been realized on a grand scale, and that the scientific institu- tions of Washington were in many depart- ments leading the world. Prof. William Flint read a poem, and Prof. Charles D. Walcott presented Prof. Holmes, in behalf of his friends, with a large silver loving cup. The banquet closed with a graceful acknowledgment of the honor paid him by Prof. Holmes, in which he declared that for the encouragement in undertaking his new work he would be willing to go to a worse place than Chicago. All rose and sang ‘‘Auld Lang Syne,” and a very pleasant incident in the life of a deservedly popular man was completed. ' : 4 i RANDOM RECORDS OF A LIFETIME DEVOTED TO SCIENCE AND ART, 1846-1932 BY W. H. HOLMES LIST OF VOLUMES Volume I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. Brief Biography, Positions Held, Loubat Prizes, Medals, etc., Societies and Clubs, Bibliography. Explorations, Episodes and Adventures, Expositions and Congresses. Part I. Yellowstone Explorations, 1872. Part II. Yellowstone Explorations, 1878. Part I. Colorado Explorations, 1873, 74, 75, 76 & 87. Part II. The Cliff Dwellers. Europe 1879-80; Grand Canyon of the Colorado; Explorations in Mexico with Jackson and the Chains: Colorado with Powell and Langley, 1887. Lu Aboriginal Bowlder Quarries, Piney Branch, D. C., Soapstone Quarries, Paint Mines, and Lay Figure Groups. The Chicago Venture, University? E^posit ion, Field Museum, Yucatan, Return to Washington, 1892-97. Cuba with Powell; Jamaica with Langley; Mexico with Gilbert and Dutton; California with McGee; Physical Anthropology, Hrdlicka, Current Work 1900. Chief Period, Bureau of American Ethnology, 1902-1910* Visits to Stutgart and Chile 1908. Transfer to the Museum June 10, 1910, the Guatemalian Trip, Powell Monuments, Seventieth Birthdav Celebration 1920. Director of the National Gallery of Art, 1920-1932. XXI. The Freer Gallery of Art, XIII. Portraits, Smithsonian Institution. XIV. Portraits, Bureau of American Ethnology. national Gallery of Art, and Miscellaneous. XV. Masterpieces of Aboriginal American Art. XVI. Various Articles on Art and the Art Gallery. XVII. Personal. XVIII. Personal. > •! . h j ... ' - i ~' '■ ' /v-i />■■/ 2 \ ' / XIX. Personal. ! XX. Personal. YVater Color Sketches. 4? T) . X- ?08P1: sP' “-%. V, ftgliir \j % % A 3 ' % ft ft < 4 4 ft # , *% ft V /4^ti^kx ? <& y y r Q x ■ ft x aas ^ a p’ %N Yp ft \ ft “ -i -y yft % 1 p 'A ft A I ft % 3 A v A ^ ,,!? - iftX "b. ApEl rm a 4- ft v o W^W' a v a ft a; b* — ^*™s J * i . i J 1 ** 1 ^F, xr -T—~lr :-. ^ A > ft sy ft P v .... , fl issinM^ij. a ]* A % ft % ft VX Aftft ftft ikt, ^ it ^iPdi ft V % ft £? *Jj ,lfl ft A mst ft o' w s ? ft 4 a W . 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