“REPORT : Ot , _ CRUISE OF THE REVENUE STEAMER CORW IN IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN 2-2 i 1885 2 fae ee Nn — 58? Siskind FISH iB EO ReE CRUISE OF THE REVENUE MARINE STEAMER GOR WW LIN IN THE ARTIC OCMAN TAH: YRAR. 1885. CAPIT OM: A HEALY. UsS: R. M. COMMANDER. —+~<>+—_____ WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1887. eabanwe ee ee Ron mil af ee alan es pies a aq "een PTLe Ste Mg MAP OF KOOWAK RIVER | A LAS KA FROM A RECONNAISSANCE MADE BY | | a — Lieut Ua A the Us WVeouenut St Corwin” | Cr capt ir, Healy Commanding | eS its | + — —t t —— 7 hall | Tea eS oT — 7 sal | Jy aby EN Bed abl ae FROM THE ACTING SECRETARY OF THE TREASURY, IN RESPONSE TO A RESOLUTION BY THE HOUSE, TRANSMITTING, With accompanying documents, the report of Capt. M. A. Healy, U. S. Revenue Marine, upon the cruise of the Revenue Marine steamer Corwiitin the Arctic Ocean, in the year 1885. Marcu 30, 1886.—Referred to the Committee on Naval Affairs and ordered to be printed. TREASURY DEPARTMENT, March 29, 1886. Sir: In response to the resolution of the House of Representatives of the 18th instant, I have honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report of Capt. M. A. Healy, U. S. Revenue arine, upon the cruise of the Revenue Marine steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean, made in ie year 1885, and its accompanying documents and illustrations. The following is a list of the inclosures which constitute the report and its accompani ats: (1) General report of operations of vessel for the protection of the seal fisheries and sea tter hunting-grounds. (2) Report of Lieut. J. C. Cantwell, of ex-loration of the Kowak River, with photographs ond book of sketches. (3) Notes on birds of Kowak River and other portions of Alaska, and notes on fishes of Alaska, by Charles H. Townsend, assistant, U. 8. Fish Commission. (4) Report of Assistant Engineer 8. B. McLenegan, of exploration of the Nodtak River. Number of photographs, 56. I have respectfully to request that in printing the above-mentioned report provision be made by Congress to furnish to the Treasury Department three thousand (3,000) copies. Very respectfully, C. 8: FAIRCHILD; Acting Secretary. Hon. J. G. CARLISLE, Speaker House of Representatives, Was.ington, D.C. - oS U6 a L955 ENCED, U.S. REVENUE CUTTER * CORWIN.” DEPARTURE FOR ALASKA, OUNALASKA. ee © Wwe OF THE ieioh OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. U. 8. REVENUE MARINE STEAMER CORWIN, San Francisco, Cal. Sir: [have the honor to submit the following report of the Alaskan and Arctic cruise of the U. 8. Revenue Marine steamer Corwin, under my command, during the summer of 1885. The Corwin left San Francisco, Cal., on the afternoon of April 29, and arrived at Ounalaska May 9, having made the passage in ten and one-quarter days. The voyage, aside from the rough weather usually experienced on a trip of this kind, was devoid of any incident worthy of particular mention until the last day. About 2 o'clock in the morning of the 9th of May, Francis McCauley, the seaman on lookout, was suddenly thrown overboard by the motion of the vessel, which was rolling deep in the trough of the sea. The engine was immediately stopped and reversed, a life-buoy thrown overboard, and two boats promptly lowered to rescue him, but all without a rail. We remained in the vicinity of the accident, our boats pulling to and fro, for four and one-half hours, and then steamed ahead for Ounalaska, where we arrived at 9 o’clock that evening. The deceased bore a most excellent reputation, and his tragic and sad death cast a eloom over our ship for many days. A few days after our arrival at Ounalaska, the bark Atlantic was sighted outside, endeavor- mg toenter the harbor. There being no pilots in the vicinity, and knowing that the captain was unacquainted with those waters, I went to his assistance and piloted the Atlantic into Ounalaska Harbor. She had been injured by the ice and was then leaking badly, and was obliged to enter port to make repairs. While in port we lent every aid to expedite the work of repairing, and members of our crew assisted in blacksmithing and carpentry. At Ounalaska we took on board a supply of coal and water, and left on the morning of the 14th of May, intending to visit the island of Attou, the westernmost of the Aleutian group, and on our return to stop at the settlements between Attou and Ounalaska. When we were off Cape Cheerful it was found that the engine worked very badly. The vessel was put under sail and the engine stopped and uncoupled, and a preliminary examina- tion disclosed a crack in the crank-pin, compelling us to work back to Ounalaska under sail. After arriving in port, a careful and thorough examination was made by the chief engineer, who reported the crank-pin broken in a dangerous manner, and that it would be necessary to have it repaired before continuing our cruise north. After much reflection and with a great deal of regret, we started back to San Francisco to make repairs, leaving Lieutenant Cantwell and two seamen at Ounalaska with instructions to take passage on the steamer St. Paul to Otter Island, there to protect seal life during the absence of the vessel. We arrived in San Francisco May 28, and on the following day, acting under telegraphic instructions from the Department, I awarded the contract for repairs to the Risdon Iron Works of San Francisco, the work to be completed in not more than eight days. The company’s em- ployés labored night and day, and finished the work in one week, in such a workmanlike manner that it has given entire satisfaction since, CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. ory The repairs having been completed on the 4th of June, we left San Francisco at 10 o’clock that evening, and again started for the Aleutian Islands. We arrived at Ounalaska June 17, coaled and watered ship, and received on board one bidarka (skin boat) for the use of the expedition up the Noatak River. The volcano of Bogosloff was visited June 19. The general appearance of the voleano is not changed from that of a year ago, but its activity is somewhat lessened. The height of the lower peak of New Bogosloff was ascertained to be four hundred and fifty feet above the sea- level, and that of the higher peak estimated about seventy-five feet more, both peaks being inaccessible on account of the steam and the fumes of sulphurous oxide in which they are en- veloped. Cruising northward from Bogosloff, we touched at St. George’s and St. Paul’s Islands on June 20, and at the latter place Second Lieutenant Benham was detailed for duty on Otter Island to relieve Third Lieutenant Cantwell. Mr. C. H. Townsend, naturalist of the Smithsonian Institution, who was at St. Paul’s Island, requested that he be taken on board the Corwin for passage to the Arctic, to enable him to make ichthyological and ornithological collections in that country. As that part of the country was an entirely new field for a naturalist, and believing that Mr. Townsend’s labors would be of great value to science and of much interest to the public, I received him on board to accompany Lieutenant Cantwell on his expedition up the Kowak River. We consulted with the Government agents on the islands and learned that no marauding vessels had been seen in the vicinity up to that time. They also stated that the seals had com- menced to haul up on the islands, without any perceptible diminution from previous years. We remained in the vicinity of the seal islands for several days; then continued our cruise to the northward and eastward, touching at St. Michael’s and Golwin Bay. At St. Michael’s we took on board an Indian interpreter to accompany Lieutenant Cant- well’s expedition. Nothing had transpired at St. Michael’s since last year which would require our interference. The health of the white people was excellent, and the Indians were peace- able and friendly. At Golwin Bay First Lieutenant Hall and Surgeon Yemans were dispatched to visit the mining camp to ascertain the condition of the white men and Indians there, and to render medical aid if such was required. Lieutenant Hall found but one man at the mine, Mr. Mackey, who had remained there all winter in order to make good the claim of the Golwin Bay Mining Company. Mr. Mackey visited the vessel, and reported that the natives were peaceful and that he had experienced no difficulty in getting along with them. He also reported the mines as very rich, with an inexhaustible quantity of ore. The specimens which have been assayed prove very rich, but the result cannot as yet be foreseen. The company have been to considerable expense in working the mine, and have lost two vessels thus far. A more thoroughly organized company, consisting of fifteen miners and superintendent, with suitable supplies and equipments for one year, arrived at the mine the day of our departure, and from them better results are anticipated. The great distance of the mine from civilization is a very decided disadvantage. The mine is situated on the Fish River, about thirty miles from the mouth, and the shallowness of the water makes it a matter of no little difficulty to convey the ore from the mine to the vessel, which takes it to San Francisco for smelting. There are those who prophesy that the Indians will eventually molest the miners in their operations. If any such difficulty does occur, it will, I think, be brought about by some overt act on their part, as the Indians are generally well-behaved and peaceable, and not unaccus- tomed to mingling with white men. If there is any trouble it will be caused by the introduc- tion of quor among the Indians or the total disregard of their personal family rights, which, in all Indian territory, the whites seem to ignore. After leaving Golwin Bay we touched at Sledge Island and King’s Island, and on June 27 anchored off our coaling station at Point Spencer. At Point Spencer we found the bark Wanderer and the schooner Page, both whaling vessels, and also the schooner James A. Garfield, which brings supplies to a portion of the Arctic whaling fleet. == = —: SSS SSE SS GROUP OF NATIVES AND UP-COUNTRY INDIANS, ST. MICHAELS H. Ex. 153, 49 1 MYUNIK (INTERPRETER), H, Ex. 153, 49 1 BOGOSLOW ISLAND, OLD END, BEARING E. BY S. H. Ex. 153, 49 1 BOGOSLOV ISLAND, SAIL ROCK, BEARING S, E BOGOSLOV ISLAND, NEW END, BEARIN ING Wie BY Nie CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 7 The whaling vessels brought down the news of the loss of the barks Gazelle and Napoleon, both of which were crushed in the ice early in the spring, the latter losing twenty-two men. We watered and coaled ship at Point Spencer and rendered medical assistance to those of the whaling fleet that required it. The steam whalers Baleena and Orca, and the barks Helen Mar, Jacob A. Howland, and Fleetwing, arrived at Point Spencer during our stay, and were boarded and examined by us. June 30 we left Point Spencer, touched at the Diomede Islands, and on July 1 anchored in Kotzebue Sound, off Hotham Inlet. Although the ice was reported by the whalers early in the season as being heavy and farther south this year on the Siberian coast than has been known for many years, the Corwin, cruis- ing much later along the Alaskan shore, did not encounter it until the afternoon of July 1, in latitude 66° 47’ N., or about fifteen miles north of the Arctic Circle; and then, although our progress was somewhat retarded, it did not prevent our entrance into Kotzebue Sound. The day after our arrival in Kotzebue Sound Lieutenant Cantwell and Mr. Townsend, with the steam-launch and two men, left the vessel with supplies and outfit to continue the explora- tion of the Kowak River, which was begun by Lieutenant Cantwell last year. At Sheshalik, where the natives of the coast and interior rendezvous for the purpose of trading and fishing, no Indians had at that time arrived, and considerable difficulty was experi- enced in obtaining a suitable boat for the use of the Kowak River expedition. One of a very inferior nature was finally procured and paid for in trade goods. On the same day Assistant Engineer McLenegan and seaman Nelson left the vessel with the skin boat received at Ounalaska to make an exploration of the Noitak, a river which up to that time had never been ascended by a white man. After landing these expeditions and their supplies, and seeing them properly started, we cruised along the coast to Point Hope, thence as far as latitude 69° 32’ N., longitude 174° 15’ W. There we met the ice, packed solid as far as the eye could reach from masthead, and making progress farther north impossible. On our return we fell in with a lot of walrus and two polar bears, to which the surgeon and I gave chase, but did not succeed in capturing any.. The barks Abram Barker and Stamboul were spoken, and also boarded and examined. Medical aid was rendered to an officer of the Stamboul who was somewhat demented, and who, a few days later, committed suicide. In this connection I may state that I have noticed that insanity is more frequent proportionally among the foremast hands of whaling-vessels than among any other class of seafaring men. Among the rescued crews brought down at different times by the Corwin I have frequently observed slight symptoms of insanity, and this has also been noticed by the surgeon of this ves- sel when visiting vessels of the whaling fleet professionally. Whether these men are so afflicted when they ship, or whether their affliction is superinduced by the strain to which they are subjected while in the vicinity of the ice, Iam unable to say, but I think the latter the more probable. From the time of leaving the ice-pack until our return to Point Spencer, July 8, the weather was extremely foggy, making our progess very slow and requiring great precaution, On arriving at Point Spencer we found several additional vessels of the whaling fleet rendezvoused for the purpose of shipping their oil and bone and of receiving supplies from the tender that went there to meet them. Some of the whalers had also gone into Point Spencer for the pur- pose of making repairs, having been damaged by coming in contact with ice. The steam whaler Balena had injured her stern and bows, the steamer Thrasher had her propeller bent, and the bark Arnolda was partially stove forward. The vessels were damaged by ice on the Siberian coast early in the season, and all succeeded in making temporary repairs while at Point Spencer. The schooner James A. Garfield left for San Francisco on the morning of July 11, taking the mail and a part of the catch of the Pacific steam whaling fleet. After coaling and watering at Point Spencer, we left there at 4 o’clock in the morning of July 13, and soon after met the whaling bark Dawn, trying to make a harbor. From the cap- tain of the Dawn I learned that his vessel was very badly injured by the ice, and upon his request for assistance we took the Dawn in tow for Grantley Harbor. 8 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. The entrance to Grantley Harbor being very narrow, considerable difficulty was found in entering, there being two shoal places on either side of the channel, with not more than two and a quarter fathoms of water, The bark grounded at 10.30 in the morning, and it was not until 4 o’clock in the afternoon, when the tide rose, that we succeeded in hauling her afloat. In the mean time two of our boats, in charge of officers, had sounded out the remainder of the chan- nel and located temporary buoys, thus enabling us to tow the bark into the harbor without further detention. We remained in Grantley Harbor the next thirty-six hours, during which time the officers and crew sounded out the entire channel and placed range beacons along the shore to mark the entrance to the harbor. Although the harbor is entirely land-locked, the shallowness of the water at its entrance makes it unserviceable for vessels of any draught. We left Grantley Harbor July 15, having first sent one of our crew on board the Dawn to assist in necessary blacksmith work, and leaving with him a tent and supplies, with instructions to await our return on shore in case of the departure of the Dawn before our arrival. We touched at King’s Island, Cape Prince of Wales, and East Cape, then cruised to the southward along the Siberian coast and entered St. Lawrence and Mechigme Bays. Thence we steamed through Seniavine Straits to and around St. Lawrence Island and back to Point Spencer, where we arrived on the 26th of July. During our absence we made several explorations, the result of which will, I think, be of much value to Arctic navigation. : As the whaling fleet operates along the Siberian coast during a considerable part of the whaling season, it is necessary that they should have some near harbor to enter for repairs when injured by the ice. No such harbor was positively known to them, but they had heard that there was a harbor off the village of Whalen, on the north side of East Cape. When at East Cape I sent an officer to make a reconnaissance of the supposed harbor, with a view to establish a refuge for the fleet. At the entrance of what proved to be a lagoon about eight miles long but ten feet of water was found, and that was the greatest depth obtained inside, while that part of the lagoon extending east from the entrance was almost entirely filled with shoals. The shallowness of the water at the entrance of this lagoon precludes its use as a harbor. At Mechigme Bay, however, about eighty miles down the coast, an entirely different and most satisfactory result was obtained. At the entrance to the bay fourteen fathoms of water was found, and on the inside five fathoms can be carried for several miles. This harbor, being entirely landlocked, affords protection from the wind from any direction, and is, in my opinion, the best harbor north of the Aleutian Islands. When steaming through Seniavine Straits a reef was discovered between Nouneangane and Ittygrave Islands, extending in a northeast and southwest direction, a very dangerous ob- struction to navigation, not being laid down on the chart. An officer of the vessel in sounding found the reef very rocky with but two and a half fathoms of water over it. The result of our labors in Mechigme Bay and Seniavine Straits, with the soundings ob- tained by usalong the Siberian and Alaskan coasts, will be given to the Hydrographic Office in this city. On the 27th of July the Dawn, having completed repairs, left Point Spencer to return to the whaling-grounds. Three of her crew had deserted, and the captain requested the cutter to pick them up and return them to their vessel. Accordingly, the day after the departure of the Dawn, the men were taken on board and kept until we should again meet that vessel. The men Claimed that the Dawn was unseaworthy, and stated that on that acoount they had deserted, as they did not consider it safe to remain in her. They were turned to with our own crew, and a Government ration served to them while they remained on board. Owing to a strong northerly gale we were compelled to remain one week at Point Spencer before we could coal and water ship. We left Point Spencer August 2, touched at Cape Prince of Wales and the Diomede Islands, and on the following day anchored off Hotham Inlet. Kotzebue Sound. Here we landed supplies for the use of the two expeditions on their return from the Kowak and Noiitalk Rivers. ~~ 25 AM VIEW OF LAKE AND MOUNTAINS, HEAD OF GRANTLEY RIVER. FAIRWAY ROCK, BEHRING STRAIT, N. BY E. DRYING FISH AT GRANTLEY HARBOR, VIEW OF LAKE AND MOUNTAINS, HEAD OF GRANTLEY RIVER. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. ) From Kotzebue Sound we cruised along the coast to the northward and touched at Point Hope, watered ship at Cape Lewis, and anchored off Cape Lisburne coaling station. This station we supplied with a small quantity of medicines and a few other necessary articles, then resumed our cruising to the northward along the coast. At 3 o’clock in the afternoon of August 9, when about fifteen miles north of Icy Cape, we encountered heavy drift-ice, but suc- ceeded in working our way through it, and at 7.45 that evening came to anchor off Point Marsh, amongst the whaling fleet of about thirty vessels. The captain of the first vessel spoken reported that some of the fleet were in the ice-pack and could not get out. After cruising amongst the fleet I found that the report was without foundation, all of the vessels being out of danger. Some of them, however, were compelled to shift anchor occasionally to avoid the heavy ice, which was then drifting to the northward about one and one-half miles per hour. The following day, August 10, was the most eventful of the season, and will long be remem- bered by the whaling fleet and the crew of the Corwin as a day of calamities. The day com- menced bright and clear, with a light to gentle breeze blowing from the east. About 11 o’clock in the morning the weather was very squally, the wind hauling gradually to the southward and increasing in force every moment. At noon a boat belonging to the bark Abram Barker, having brought mail on board the Corwin, started to return to the bark. She had proceeded but a short distance when she was suddenly capsized by a heavy squall, and the occupants, consisting of the second mate and five men, were left struggling in the water. The accident being observed on board this vessel, the surf-boat was promptly lowered, and, in charge of Third Lieutenant Kennedy, went to the rescue. The men were all hauled in the boat and after much hard pulling against the wind and sea were safely landed on board the bark Helen Mar, that being the nearest vessel to the scene of the accident, and on board of which the doctor was then officially visiting. The wind continued to increase, and by 2 o’clock in the afternoon had developed into a strong SSW. gale. The majority of the whaling fleet were now under way, working under short sail. Some of them parted and others slipped their cables, not being able to heave them in on account of the very rough sea and strong tide. At 3 o'clock the bark George and Susan, which was at anchor, parted one of her cables and began to drag. Sail was put on her and every effort made to get her outof danger, but before she could be got under way she dragged afoul of the bark Mabel, which was at anchor near by, carrying away the jibboom and all the head gear of the George and Susan, and breaking the Mabel’s mainyard. The George and Susan then went ashore, striking very hard on the beach, and in less than three hours had seven feet of water in her hold. When she struck, some of her crew, in their excitement, cleared away two boats, jumped into them, and headed for the shore. A very heavy surf was running on the beach, which swamped both boats and drowned three of their crew. The remainder succeeded in landing on shore in an exhausted and semi- conscious state; in fact, some of them were in an exceedingly critical condition for several hours after landing. At 5.45 we got under way and steamed down toward the George and Susan to see if we could render any assistance to her or any other vessel of the fleet. Observing that the Mabel was in what I considered an extremely dangerous position, we entered the breakers and anchored near her in four and a quarter fathoms of water with ninety fathoms of chain. While in the breakers the Corwin shipped a very heavy sea over her starboard quarter which swept clear forward to the forecastle. Our surf-boat was made ready with a picked crew, and then, steaming ahead to windward of the Mabel toa full scope of chain, the boat was lowered, with Mr. Douglass, the pilot, in charge, to run a small line to the Mabel. Notwithstanding the heavy sea and the strong wind and tide, he succeeded in running the line in a most admirable and seamanlike manner.