LIBRARY Brigham Young University 151456 HAROLD P ^ -^ - '^,^ARi BRIGHANri ...IVERSITY PROVO. UTAH Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Brigham Young University http://www.archive.org/details/reportofexploratOOsimp ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, U. S. ARMY. REPORT EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF THE TERRITOPiY OF UTAH FOR A DIRECT WAGON-ROUTE FROM CAMP FLOYD TO GENOA, IN CARSON VALLEY, I:N^ 1859, 151456 OAPTAIN J. H. SIMPSON, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, U. S. ARMY, [now colonel of engineers, nVT. BRIG. GEN., U. S. A.] BY AUTHOUITY OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, AND UNDER INSTRUCTIONS FROM BYT. BRIG. GEN. A. S. JOHNSTON, U. S. ARMY, COMMANDING THE DEPARTMENT OF UTAH. WASHINGTON: GOTERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1 8 7 G. Office of the Chief of Engineers, Washington, D. C, May 17, 1875. Sir : I have the honor to submit herewith a report by Captaiu (now Colonel and Brevet Brigadier-General) James H. Simpson, of his Explorations in the Great Basin of Utah in 1859, with a view of recommending that it be printed. It contains much valuable information conceruiug the geography, topography, geology, meteorology, zoology, ethnology, history, and statistics of the country through which Captain Simpson explored a route from Camp Floyd, in the vicinity of Salt Lake City, to Carson City, Ifev., which was afterward known as " Simpson's route.'' This was an original route, *. e., it had not been before explored, and as it shortened the dis- tance from the East to San Francisco more than two hundred and fifty (-50) miles, it was at once adopted by the overland mail, the pouj'-express and the telegraph. The report also contains a description of an exploration for a wagon-road from the valley of the Timpanogos Eiver, over the Uintah Mountains, to the Green liivor, and a translation from the Spanish of the narrative of Padre Escalante of his remarkable journey from Santa Fe to Utah Lake and return by way of Oraybe (one of the villages of the Moquis), Zuiii, and Acoma, in 1776-'77. A large part of the country traversed by Captain Simpson has not been described by any sub- sequent explorer ; and as his report was not printed, owing to the late war coming on about the time it was completed, the valuable information it contains is not available for the use of the Government or the public. I would therefore respectfully recommend that it be printed at the Government Priutiug-Oflice, and that 1,500 copies be furnished on the usual requisition. By direction of Brigadier-General Humphreys, and in his absence. Yery respectfully, your obedient servant, Geokge n. Elliot, Major of Engineers. Hon. Wm. "W. Belknap, Secretary of War. Approved : By order of the Secretary of War. H. T. Crosby, Chief Cleric. WarDepaetment, May 19, 1875. TABLE OF CONTENTS. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL 7 INTRODUCTION. History of the explorations within the Great Basin from the time of Father Escalante, iu 177G, to the present period, and a general description of the country 13 REPORT AND JOURNAL 41 APPENDIXES A, B, AND C. A. Itinerary of Capt. J. H. Simpson's outward or more northern route from Camp Floyd to Genoa, iu Carson Valley. 151 B. Itinerary of Capt. J. H. Simpson's return or more southern route from Genoa to Camp Floyd 153 C. Itinerary of Capt. J. H. Simpson's route, via White Clay Creek and Tiuipauogos C;uiou, from Fort Briilger to Camp Floyd 155 APPENDIX D. Astronomical ohservations and tahio of geographical positions of the^most importautpoiuts of Capt. J. 11. Simpson's routes, prefaced hy a discussion of the subject 159 APPENDIX E. Barometrical profiles of routes, prefaced hy a discussion of the subject and of the cliiuato, with the necessary tables and live diagrams, by Henry Engelmann, meteorologist of the expedition 169 APPENDIX F. Table of distances, altitudes, and grades of routes iJU APPENDIX G. Estimates of appropriations required to improve the routes 217 APPENDIX H. Magnetic dip, declination, and intensity at various points of Capt. J. H. Simpson's routes, prefaced by a discus- sion of the subject, with a plat and the necessary tables 223 APPENDIX U H. RaihoaU-routes from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean 233 APPENDIX I. Geological report of country from Fort Leavenworth to the Sierra Nevada, hy Henry Engelmann, geologist of the expedition ~'l' APPENDIX J. Paleontological report of the same country, by Mr. F. B. Meek .' 339 6 TABLE OF CONTE^^TS. APPENDIX K. Page. List of birds collected on the expedition, by Charles S. McCarthy, taxidermist, and classified by Prof. Spencer F. Baird.of the Smithsonian Institntion 377 APPENDIX L. Icbtbyology of the expedition, by Mr. Theodore Gill, of the Smithsoniau Institntion 5 APPENT)IX M. Botany of the expedition, by Dr. George Engelmann 435 APPENDIX N. A memoir on the iiopulation, resources, Ac., of Eastern Utah, by Dr. Garland Hurt 4.')1 APPENDIX O. A memoir on the Indians of Utah Territory, by Dr. Garland Hurt 459 APPENTDIX P. A comparative vocabulary of the languagos of the Indians inhabiting Utah and the east slope of the Sierra Nevada, prefaced by a discussion of the subject 467 APPENDIX Q. The journal of Mr. Edward M. Kern of his explorations of the Mary's or Humboldt River, Carson and O iven Lakes, &c., under Capt. John C. Fremont, Corps Topographical Engineers, in 1845, not before published 477 APPENDIX R. A summary of the narrative by F. Francisco Silvestre Velez Escalante of his journey from Sante Flatea to illustrate paleontological report, end of Appendix 1 374 Nine plates to illustrate report on ichthyology of the expedition, end of Appendix L 432 Three plates to illustrate report on botany, end of Appendix M 448 ERRATA. Page 6, line 5, for 5 read 385. Pago 29, bottom line, for Rivers read River. Page 30, line 12, for Lynngris read Linosyris. Page 31, line 8, for Lynogris read Linosyris. Pago '31, line 14, for Epledra piduciilata read Ephedra pcHnnridala. Page 42, line 43, for Sangrede Christfi read Sangrc de Crista. Pago 45, line 25, for lynosyris read linosyris. Page 52, line 37, for arcmost read are n!os^ Page 55, number of page, for 5 read 55. Page G9, line 18, for Greator read Creator. Page 7G, line 38, for revcUlc road rei-eiUe. • Page 84, line 21, for morphosedfif, ratified read morphosed, stratified. Page 95, line 19, for Piitman read Pittnam. Page 110, line 36, for Won-a-ho-pe read Won-a-lio-no-pe. Page 118, line 10, for amp read Camp. Page 141, line 15, for wonld add niad I would add. Page 159, lines 2 and 6, for Putman read Pnlnam. Page 1G2, line 5, for Piilman read Putnam. Page lfi3, line 15, for Putman read Putnam. Page 164, in table, line 25, for akaline read alhaline. Page 171, in table, line 8, for A(iH(f read had. Page 181, line 29, for rec ords read records. Page 192, in table, for Fahredheit read Fahrenheit. Page 197, line 31, for recurs read occurs. Page 211, in table, line 6, for /Jfli- Hirer read /?t'(/)- Tfiivr. Page 234, lines 4, 5, and 21, for Zuni read ZH)7i. Page 248, line 2, for 2>rcralance read prevalence. Page 281, line 2, for fragiUis read fragilis. Pago 309, line 9, for do«s read ceous. Page 321, line 26, for Artiynisia read Artemisia. Page 332, line 13, for aske read as/ies. Page 414, line 34, for thymology read etymology. Page 439, line 40, for Bigelw read Bigelow. Page 498, line 41, first column, for j'urpurens read purptireus. Page 499, line 3, .second column, for 429 read 423; line 26, for Phractocephalis read Phraclocejihalus ; line 6, from below, for Potamocattus read Potamocottus. Page 501, line 31, first column, for Escalanti road Escalante ; line 24, from below, second column, strike out Kern, R 483. Page 502, line 26, for Vte, Pete, read Vte Pete. Page 504, line 16, first column, for 294 read 295; line 18, for Wan-a-ho-nupe read IVon-a-ho-no-pe. Page 506, line 3, second column, for 996 read 296 ; line 26, second column, for 239 9, 251 read 239, 249, 251. Page 507, line 7, first column, for Bacevellia read Bakcvellia ; line 20, first column, for Campelotna read Campelona ; line 3, from bottom, for Veniricosa read veniricosa ; line 9, from bottom, second column, for Myatcllinordes read Mya telli- n aides. Page 508, line 20, first column, for Phillophora read Phyllopara ; line 3, second column, for Mensehachianus read Jilcuseiachianus. Page 509, line 13, first column, for 371 read 271. Pago 510, line 27, first column, for To-si-tcif/ift? read To-si-witches ; line 29, first column, for 460 read 459; line 7, second column, for Baupland read Bonpland ; lino 19, from bottom, for Utah 3, 6 . . . road Utah 4, 6 . . . Page 511, line 14, first column, for 121 read 120 ; line 13, from bottom, first column, for 272 read 262. Pago 513, top line, second column, for 254, 25 read 254, 257 ; Hue 4, second column, for attitude read altitude. Page 516, between lines 15 and 16, first column, insert Kern .... 483; line 27, second column, for iron-a-ho-uu-pe read Wan-a-ho-no-pe. Page 518, line 9, first column, for Thornburg read Thornhcrg ; line 20, second column, for 184, 189, etc., read 142, 184^ 189, etc. 1. liead- open- lepart- n-ay of rest of rations ey.* . open- Camp Floyd . sliort- Y more xplora- ■ Utah, uel. xeneral Uintah jUeved, by this (lite be nt time in the eology, , wliich lead, ill :etches, TABLE OF CONTENTS. APPENDIX K. List of birds collect Baird, of the Sn Ichthyology of the ( Botauy of the oxpoc A memoir on the po A memoir ou the In A comparative vocal prefaced by a di The journal of Mr. E &c., under Capt A suuimary of the u: and back, by w; a Spanish manus of Topographies Map of routes espl Basin of the Terri Plate A. Diagram ilj Plate B. Diagram il) Plate C. Diagram ill Plate D. Diagram il page Plate E. Profile of ^ Plate P. Diagram sh Plate G. Map of rout Aooma, in 17/6-' Five plates to illusti Nine plates to illusti Three plates to illusi LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Wasiiingtox, Fehriiari/ 5, 1861. Sir: Under date of December 28, 1858, I had the lienor to submit to the head- quarters of the Department of Utah a map and. report of my explorations and open- ing, under instructions from Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston, commanding the depart- ment, of a new wagon-route from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger, Utah, by the way of Timpanogos River Canon and White Clay Creek, and of my explorations west of Camp Floyd, as far as Short Cut Pass, preparatory- to more extended explorations during the ensuing year for a direct wagon-route from that post to Carson Valley.* I have noAV the honor to submit a report and map of my explorations and open- ing; in 1859, of two new wagon-routes across the Great Basin of Utah, from Camp Floyd to Carson Valley, by means of which the traveling distance from Camp Floyd to San Francisco, when compared with the old Humboldt River route, has been short- ened, in the case of my more northern route, 283 miles, and in the case of my more southern route, 254 miles. The orders of the Hon. John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, sanctioning the explora- tions, and the insti-uctions of General Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, directing the movement, will be found inserted in their proper place in the sequel. The report will be found also to include the exploration, by direction of General Johnston, of a new pass from the valley of the Timpanogos River over the Uintah range of mountains into the Green River Valley, by means of which, it is believed, a wagon-route can be obtained thence to Denver City, in Kansas, and thus, by this route, in connection "VA-ith my route across the Great Basin, a more direct route be obtained across the continent to San Francisco than any which at the present time exists. The above are the most notable resiilts of the expedition, but embraced in the report will be found information respecting the history, geograph}-, topography, geology, meteorology, botauy, zoology, ethnology, aud statistics of the country traversed, Avhich will not be without interest, as I trust, to the scientific as well as popular mind. All these subjects are indicated in the Table of Contents, and under each head, in the report, will be found presented the discussions, descriptions, pictorial sketches, * ThiB report forma Senate Ex. Doc. No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d Sesa. 8 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH, diagrams, and tables necessary to an elucidation and comprehension of the various topics gi-owing out of the explorations. To my assistants, Lieuts. J. L. Kirby Smith and II. S. Putnam, of the Coqxs of Topographical Engineers; Mr. Henry Engelmann, geologist, meteorologist, and botan- ical collector; Mr. Charles S. McCarthy, taxidennist; Messrs. Edward lagiello and WiUiam Lee, chronometer-keepers and meteorological assistants; and Mr. H. V. A. Von ]3eckh, artist, I hereby tender my thankful acknowledgments for faithful and efficient services rendered. The work performed by each will appear generally in the sequel, to which I refer for proof of the useful character and merit of their respective labors. Lieutenants Smith and Putnam having, under my instructions, had an opportunity to practice for more than a month with the sextant, astronomical transit, unifilar mag- netometer, and dip-circle, at Fort Leavenworth, before the Utah forces destined for Utah in the spring of 1858 took up the line of march for that Ten-itory, and practicing with these insta-viments again on the march to Utah, they became so dexteroiis in their use as to make it unnecessary for me to have anything more than a general supervision over their observations subsequently across the Great Basin. To Lieutenant Smith, therefore, were intrusted the daily observations with the sextant for latitude and longi- tude, and to Lieutenant Putnam the occasional observations with the transit of moon and moon-culminating stars for longitude, and with the magnetometer and inclinometer, or dip-circle, for the intensity, declination, and dip of the magnetic needle. In the "lunars" for longitude both would assist me, three sextants being used, they taking the altitude and I the angular distance, and all at the same instant of time. The other duties performed by these gentlemen will appear noted in the mention made in the journal of the organization at Camp Floyd of the expedition. The very valuable contributions to my report by Mr. Henry Engelmann, in respect to the geology and meteorology, and by Mr. F. B. Meek, of the paleontology of the country, from Foi't Leavenworth to the Sierra Nevada, and especially of that hitherto terra incof/nifa in these respects, the Great Basin of Utah, I feel assured, will be readily acknowledged by all who take an intei'est in such subjects. To Mr. Von Beckh I am indebted for the original sketches of scenery, and to Mr. John J. Young, of this city, for the very handsome manner in which they have been elaborated and perfected in the office for my report. I earned out with me a photographic apparatus, carefully supplied with the necessary chemicals by Mr. E. Anthony, of New York, and a couple of gentlemen accompanied me as photographers; but although they took a large number of views, some of which have been the origi- nals from which a few accompanying my journals have been derived, yet, as a general thing, the project proved a failure. Indeed, I am infonned that in several of the Gov- ernment expeditions a photographic apparatus has been an accompaniment, and that in every instance, and even with operators of undoubted skill, the enterprise has been attended with failure. The cause lies in some degree in the difficulty, in the field, at short notice, of having the preparations perfect enough to insure good pictures, but chiefly in the fact thnt the camera is not adapted to distant scenery. For objects very close at hand, which of course correspondingly contracts the field of vision, and for LETTEK OF TRANSMITTAL. 9 single portraits of persons and small yronps, it does very well ; butas, on exploring expeditions, the cliicf (lesidcrafiDii is to daguerreotype extensive mountain-chains and other notable objects having considerable extent, the camera has to be correspondingly distant to take in the wlude fio^ld, and the consequence is a want of sharpness of out- line, and in many instances, on account of the focal distance not being the same for every object within the iield of view, a blurred effect, as well as distortion of parts. In my judgment, the camera is not adapted to explorations in the field, and a good artist, who can sketch readily and accurately, is much to be preferred. The contriljutions of Dr. George Engelmann upon the botany. Professor Spencer F. Baird on the ornithology, and of Mr. Theodore Gill on the ichthyology of the country traversed by the expedition, will also command attention, on account of the well- earned reputation of these gentlemen in their several s})ecial branches of scientific inquiry. I must also draw attention to the contribiition of Dr. Garland Hurt, in respect to the statistics and resources of Eastern Utah and the history and present condition of the Indian tribes inhabiting the Territory of Utah. The residence of this gentleman for several years in Utah as Indian agent, and his w^ell-known intelligence and probity, give his statements a value which I am pleased here to acknowledge. I must also express my thanks to Maj. Frederick Dodge, the General Govern- ment agent of the AVashoe and Pi-Ute Indians, for information in relation to these Indians and the vocabularies of their languages, to be found appended to my repoi't. The courteous treatment of my party by this gentleman on our arrival at Genoa, in Carson Valley, and afterw^ard, was a cordial which can never be forgotten. I also present my grateful acknowledgments to Mr. Edward M. Kern for his ver}' valuable journal of his exploration of the Humboldt River, Carson Lake, and Owen's River and Lake in 1845, under Capt. John C. Frt^mont, Corps Topographical Engi- neers, now for the first time given to the public. The fact that this exploration under the authority of the War Department was the original soiirce of the information and maps wdiicli we have of this particular portion of our country, gives it a peculiar value wdiich all must acknoAvledge. I would also draw attention to the map, synopsis, and extracts from the diary of Father Escalante's journey from Santa Fe to Utah Lake, and thence back to Santa Fe, by way of the Moqvii country and the Indian imchhs of Zuili and Acoma, in 1776-77, by Mr. Philip Harry, of the Bureau of Topographical Engineers. Mr. Harry, at my solicitation, has done good service in the cause of geographical history, in translating the manuscript of this Spanish Franciscan monk, and now for the first time presenting extracts from it to the public, with a sketch plotted by him from this father's notes. The manuscript was kindly placed at my disposal for the purpose stated by Col. Peter Force, of this city, whose well-stocked library has before been drawn upon by officers of our corps for information in relation to the early history of our country. In the introduction to my report, it will be noticed that, before giving a general description of the physical characteristics of the Great Basin, I have gone fully into the history of all the explorations that have been made in it from the time of Escalante to the present period, which I trust will not prove unacceptable to all who take an interest in such researches. 10 EXPLORATIOXS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. I must also exjn-ess uiy acknowledg-ments of cheerful service rendered by my assistant in the office, Lieut. Charles R. Collins, Corps Topographical Engineers, and Mr. J. R. P. Mechlin, of this city, in the aid they have given in the computation of scientific data and the draughting of the maps and profiles which accompany my report. I should also fail in my obligations did I not bring to the notice of the War De- partment the very valuable assistance I received in the prosecution of my duties in the field from Lieut. Alexander ]\Iurry, Tenth Infantry, the commander of the escort accompanying the expedition. Lieutenant Muny is an officer of gi-eat energy, and zealous in the promotion of the best interests of the service ; and it is a gratification to me to present him thus honorably to the consideration of the Government. I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfullj^, your obedient sen'ant, J. H. Simpson, Captain Corps TopoyraphkaJ Englueers, United States Army. Col. J. J. Abert, Chief Corjjs TopograpMcal Engineers. EXPLOKATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. INTRODUCTION EEPORT AND JOUENAL. INTRODUCTION. History of the Explorations within- tiik Great Basin of the Territory op Utah, from the time of Father ESCAi-lSTE, IN 1776, to tile PRESENT PERIOD, AND A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. The country known since the date of the explorations of Fremont, iu 1843 and 1844, and by Ms appellation, as the Great Basin, has been, since the days of Fathers Sylvester Velez Escalante, and Francisco Atanacio Dominguez, in 1776, one of great interest.* This interest has gTOAvn out of the circumstance of its reported inaccessi- bility from extended deserts, its occupancy by Indians of an exceedingly low type, and the laudable curiosity, which prevails in the minds of men, to know the jjhysical characteristics of a country -which has so long remained a term incognita. This Great Basin has a triangular shape, nearly that of a right-angled triangle, the mountauis to the north of the Humboldt River and of Great Salt Lake constituting the northern limit or border^ and foraiing one leg of the triangle ; the Sierra Nevada, or western limit, the other equal leg ; and the Wahsatch range at the eastern, and (in continuation) the short mountain ranges and plateau coiuitry to the north of and not far distant from the Santa Fe and Los Angeles caravan or Spanish trail route to the southeast, the hypothenuse. These limits are embraced approximately witliiu the 111th and 120th degrees of west longitude from Greenwich, and the 34th and 43d of north latitude, or within a limit of nine degrees of longitude and nine of latitude. The earliest records we have of any examination of any portion of this Basin is derived from the journal of Father Escalante, descriptive of the travels of himself and party in 17 76-' 7 7, from Santa Fe to Lake Utah (by him called Laguna de nuestra Seiiora de la merced de Timpanogotycs, and also Lake Timpanogo), and thence to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moqnis, and back to Santa Fe. A manuscript of (a) Humboldt, in bis "New Spain," translated by Jobn Black, vol. 1, second edition, Loudon, ldl4, cbap. II, p. 2'2, says: " These regions," referring to tboso between the Colorado and Lake Timpanogos (Utah Lake), "abounding in rock-salt, were examined in 1777 by two travelers, full of zeal and intrepidity, monks of the order of Saint Francis, Father Escalante and Father Antonio Velez." According to the manuscript narrative of these travels by Father Esca- lante, referred to subsequently in this report, and which I have consulted, I find that Friar Francisco Atanacio Domiu- guez, and not Velez, was associated with Escalante in these explorations, and that no such person as Velez accompanied the expedition. It is something singular, however, that Escalante's name was Silvester Velc: Escalante. Can it be that Humboldt has fallen into the error of making two distinct persons out of this father's name, and of omitting that of Dominguez altogether? Or did a monk by name Antonio Velez explore this same region separately from the others and in the same year ? I notice, also, that Humboldt dates Escalante's journey A. D. 1777, The manuscript shows that it was commenced July 'i9, 177C, and terminated in January, 1777. 14 EXPL0RATI02>^S ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. this jouruey in the Spanish language is to be found in the rare and valuable library of Col. Peter Force, city of Washington, to which, agreeably to his well-known liberality, I have had ready access, and from v,h\ch has been extracted for this report the valu- able summary to be found, marked Appendix R, and for which I am indebted to the zealous co-operation of Mr. Phihp Harry of the Bureau of Topographical Engineers. There will also be found in Mr. Harry's paper an extract fi-om the manuscript, descrip- tive of Lake Utah and its valley, which Escalante explored as far north, doubtless, as the Timpanogos River (by him called the Rio San Antonio de Padua), and an allusion to the outlet of Lake Utah into a large body of salt ^Nater farther north, without question Great Salt Lake. The destination of Escalante, his journal shows, was Monterey, on the Pacific coast ; but being forced, doubtless by the desert immediately west of Lake Utah, to take the so-called southern or Los Angeles route, which Bonneville's party in 1834 and Fremont in 1844 followed, and finding that, ■^^•hile making a great deal of south- ing, he had made but little progress toward ]\Ionterey, his provisions gi^dng out, and he fearing the approach of winter, with some difficulty he prevailed upon his party to abandon the idea of reaching Monterey, and to return to Santa Fd by the way of the villages of the Moquis and of Zuni. (See the map of his route, Plate I, Appendix R.) The next authentic record which shoAvs that any portion of the Great Basin sys- tem was explored at an early date is to be found on the map entitled Appcndiente al Diiirio queformo el P. F.Pedro Font del Vktye que liizo d Monterey y Puerto de San Fran- cisco, y del Viaye que hizo el P. Garces al Moqui, "P. F. Petrus Font fecit Tubutana anno nil;" w'hich may be fi'eely translated as follows : ' 'A supplement to the diary of Father F. Pedro Font's journey to IMonterey and San Francisco, and of Father Garces's to Moqui, executed by P. F. Petrus Font, at Tulmtana, in the year 1777.'"' According to this map, it appears that Father Garces traveled as early as 1777 (Humboldt says in 1773)" from the mission of San Gabriel, near the Pacific coast, in California, to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moquis, and that his route was along the Rio de los Matires (e^adently, from its position, the Mojave). Fremont and others supposed that the Mojave was a tributary of the Colorado, and therefore did not be- long to the Great Basin system ; but this idea was exploded by Lieutenant William- (b) A copy of this map is iu the Boreaa of Topographical Eugineers, it having heen furnished by Capt. E. O. C. Ord, Third Artillery, from ap original one in the archives of California, and is quite interesting as showing the large number of Spanish settlements in Middle Sonora at the time of the travels of Fathers Pont and Garces, and the exact routes exjilored by them. According to Humboldt, Father Garces was the principal personage in these explorations, and to Father Font were intrusted the observations for latitude. Greenhow, in his Oregon and California, 4th ed.,p. 114, speaking of the (journals of Friars Escalante and Domingucz, and of Friars G.aroes and Font, says, " They are still preserved in manu- script in Mexico, where they have been consulted by Humboldt and other travelers, but they are, from all accounts, of no value." In regard to the journal of Escalante, Mr. Greonhow's criticism is unjust, for not only is this journal written iu a plain, unpretending, direct manner, but it abounds in excellent and apparently just observations and facts; and it is wonderful that the courses and distances given by hiui from Ut.ah Lake back to Santa F^, by way of Oraybe and Zuni, should plot so correctly, and should agree so well as they do with our present maps. And in regard to the journal of Friars Garces and Font, Humboldt, iu speaking of the Chronica from which he derives his information respecting the travels of these monks, expressly states that " it forms a large folio volume of 600 pages, and is well-deserving of an extract being made from it." He goes on to say : " It contains very accurate geogr.aphical notions as to the Indian tribes inhabiting California, Sonora, the Moqui, Nabajoa, and the banks of the Gila." (See note, Humboldt's New Spain, vol. II, p. 253.) (c) See his New Spain, vol. II, page 268. INTRODUCTION TO EEPOIIT AND JOURNAL. 15 son, TopogTaphical Eiig-ineens, in 185o,'' and afterward l)y Lieutenant I'arke, Topo- graphical Engineers, in 1855,* both of wliom fully determined that this sti-eam sank, and that intervening- it and the Colorado was a ridge which separated these waters. In tliis connection, it may he interesting to observe that Humboldt, speaking of the delay on tlie part of the Spaniards, notwithstanding their enterprising spirit, in opening comnmnications between New Mexico and California, holds the following language : "The letter post still (at the date of his researches in 1803-04) goes from this port (San Diego) along the northwest coast to San Francisco. This last establisli- ment, the most northern of all the Spanish possessions of the new continent, is almost under the same parallel with the small town of Taos, in New Mexico. It is not more than 300 leagues distant from it, and though Father Escalante, in his apostolical ex- cursions in 1777, advanced along the western bank of the river Zaguananas toward the mountains de los Guacaros, no traveler has yet come from New ]\Iexico to the coast of New California. This fact must appear remarkable to those who know, from the history of the conquest of America, the spiiit of enterprise and the wonderful courage with which the Spaniards were animated in the sixteenth century. Hernan Cortez landed for the first time on the coast of Mexico, in the distiict of Chalchinhciiecan, in 1519, and in the space of four years had already constructed vessels on the coast of the South Sea, at Zacatula and Tehiiantepec. " In 1537, Alvar Nufiez Cabeza de Vaca appeared, with two of his companions, wora out with fatigue, naked, and covered with wounds, on the coast of Caliacan, opposite the peninsula of California. He had landed with Panfilo Narvaez in Florida, and after two years' excursions, wandering over all Louisiana and the northern part of Mexico, he arrived at the shore of the great ocean in Sonora. Tliis space wdiich Nunez went over is almost as great as that of the route foUow^ed by Captain Lewis from the banks of the Mississippi to Nootka and the mouth of the river Cohimbia.*^ When we consider the bold undertakings of the first Spanish conquerors in Mexico, Peioi, and on the Amazon Eiver, we are astonished to find that for two centiu-ies the same nation could not find a road by land in New Spain from Taos to the port of Monterey." « Humboldt here was undoubtedly in error. The map of Father Font, before re- feired to, shows that as early as 1777 Father Garces traveled from the mission of San Gabriel, near the Pacific coast, to Oraybe, one of the villages of the Moquis, in New Mexico, and the inscription on the rock "El Iloro,^^ near Zuni, in New Mexico, an accountand transcript of which I give in my "Journal of a military reconnaissance from Santa Fe to the Navajo country in 1849,'"' show that there was as early as 1716 a communication opened with the Moquis from Santa Fe. The inscription is as follows: "In the year 171G, upon the 2Gth day of August, passed by this place (d) Pacitic Railroad Reports, vol. V, pages 33 aud 34. (e) Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. VII, page 3. (/) " This wonderful journey of Captain Lewis was nndertaken under the auspices of Mr. Jeflerson, who by this important service rendered to science has added new claims on the gratitude of the savans of all nations." (Note by Humboldt.) (g) Humboldt's New Spain, vol. ii, pp. 289-290. (fc) See Sen. Ex. Doc, 04, 31st Cong., 1 sess., p. 123, or same published by Lippincott, Grambo & Co., 1852, p, 104. IG EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Don "Felix IVIartinoz, - food. As a procaution, ll0^ve^'el', tlie party halted on Boar Riv^er, and hunted for a few da}-s, initil they liad hiid in a supply of dried buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by the headwaters of the Cassie River, and soon found them- selves launched on an immense sandy desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the Great Salt Lake, spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running into it. A desert extended around them, and stretched to the southwest as far as the eye could reach, rivaling the deserts of Asia and Africa in sterility. There was neither tree nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, nor running stream, nothing but parched Avastes of sand where horse and rider were in danger of perishing. "Their sufferings at length became so great that they abandoned their intended course, and made toward a range of snowy mountains, brightening in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time they came upon a small stream, leading directly toward these mountains. Having quenched their burning thirst, and refreshed them- selves and their wear}^ horses for a time, they kept along this stream, which gi-adually increased in size, being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the mountains it took a sweep toward the southwest, and the travelers still kept along it, trapping bea- ver as they went, on the flesh of which they subsisted for the present, husbanding their dried meat for future necessities. "The stream on which they had thus fiillen is called by some Mary's River, but is more generally knoA\'n as Ogden's River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who first explored it."" * * "The trappers continued down Ogden's River, until they ascertained that it lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent discharge. They then struck directly westward across the great chain of California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the shores of the Pacific." "For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains, the peaks and ridges of Avliich are in many places covered with pei-petual snow. Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking of the sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful precipices. The sufferings of the travelers among these savage mountains were extreme; for a part of the time they were nearly starved. At length they made their way through these, and came down upon the plains of New California, a fertile region extending along the coast, with magnificent forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that look like stately parks. Here they found deer and other game in abundance, and indemnified themselves /or past famine. They now turned toward the south, and, passing numerous small bands of natives posted upon various streams, arrived at tlie Sjianish village and post of Monterey."" It would thus seem that Walker and his party failed in exploring around the west portion of the Great Salt Lake on account of the desert in that region, and were forced to take a route along the northern section of the Great Basin to California; and it i.s («) Siuce the exploiatious of Fremont in ISJS-MG, this river bus been known altogether by emigrants anrt others as the Humboldt River, the name Fremont gave it. (») Irving is here in error. Walker did not go directly westward from the Swamp (sink) of the Ogden's River (the Humboldt) across the great chain of California mountains (the Sierra Nevada), but striking southwardly, continued down along then- cast side for nearly 5^ of latitude before he crossed them, near their southern termination, by a pass emce known as Walker's Pass. I get this information from Mr. E. M. Kern, the assistant of Frdmont, who ten years subseriuently was gnided by Walker over this very route. - (See Koru's Journal, Appendix Q.) (o) Bonneville's Adventures, pp. 32G-328. INTEODUCTION TO KEPOIJT AND JOUKNAL. IQ represented by Irving that on their return they turned the Sierra Nevada at its south- ern extremity. This being the case, it is likely they took the Spanish trail route, which P>t'mont, ten years after, in 1844, followed, and on which, at Vegas de Santa Clara, he was overtaken by this same Joseph Walker, in charge of a trading-party. The next authentic account we have of any explorations of the Great Basin is from the report by Colonel Fremont of his expedition, in 1843-44, to Oregon and California, through the South Pass, where, on the 6th September, of the former year, he attained the summit of a butte near the mouth of \Yeber Eiver, whence he saw, for the first time, the waters of Great Salt Lake.'' Forming an encampment near the mouth of the Weber, he remained in the vicin- ity a few days to make some observations and take a hasty sketch of the lake. Subsequently, in continuation of his expedition, he explored in the following win- ter from Fort Vancouver along the east base of the SieiTa Nevada, or along what ma}' be called the northwestern edge of the Great Basin, as far as the vicinity of Johnson's Pass, where he crossed the Sierra to the valley of the Sacramento. On his return east in the spring of 1844 he turned the Sierra Nevada at its southern extremity, got upon the Spanish trail along the Mojave River in the Great Basin, crossed the Rio Virgin and other tributaries of the Colorado, and, near Las Vegas de Santa Clara, again en- tered the Great Basin, and explored it along its southern and eastern edge up to the eastern portion of Lake Utah, where he left it and crossed the dividing ridge into the valley of Green River. Colonel Fremont's report shows that in this expedition he had not seen, or did not care to give heed to, the previously published history and map of the explorations of Bonneville; for, had he done so, he would probably not have been led into the error to which he attributed a great deal of his hardships, of constantly looking for the hypothetical river of Buenaventura, which, as he supposed, taking its rise in the Rocky Mountains, emptied itself into the bay of San Francisco, and upon which he expected to winter. His langu^ige is as follows: "In our journey across the desert, Mary's Lake" [most probably the sink of the Humboldt, formerly called Mar}''s River] "and the famous Buenaventura River were two points on which I relied to recruit the animals and repose the party. Forming, agreeably to the best map in my possession, a connected water-line from the Rocky ]\Iountains to the Pacific Ocean, I felt no other anxiety than to pass safely across the intervening desert to the banks of the Buenaventura, where, in the softer climate of a more southern latitude, om* horses might find grass to sustain them and ourselves be sheltered from the rigors of Avinter and from the inhospitable desert.'''^ Touching this question, Colonel Bonneville, in a letter to Lieutenant Warren on the subject of his explorations in and west of the Rocky Mountains, uses the following language; and as it bears upon the fact as to whom should be accorded the credit of the discovery of the Great Basin, I think proper to make an extract from it. I find the letter in Lieutenant Warren's Memoir of Explorations, page 33 : "Gila Rivek, N. Mex., Auffust 24, 1857. "Dear Sir: I thank you for your desire to do me justice as regards my map and (p) Fremont's Report, House Cong. Doc. No. 1(56, p. 151, published iu 1845. {q) Fremont's report for 1843-'44, p. 205 ; see aUo pp. 196, 214, 219, 221, 226, 255. 20 EXPLORATIOXS ACEOSS TDE GEEAT BASIN OF UTAH. explorations in the Rocky Mountains. I started for tlie mountains in July, 1832. * * * I left the mountains in July, 183G, and reached Fort Leavenworth, Mo., the 6th of August following. During all this time I kept good account of the courses and distances, with occasional observations with my quadrant and Dolland's reflecting telescope. * * * j plotted my work, found it proved, and made it into tliree parts: one a map of the waters iixnning east to the Missouri State line; a second of the mountain region itself; and a third, which ajjpears to be the one you have sent me, of the waters running west. On the maps you send I recognize my names of rivers, of Indian tribes, observations, Mary's or Maria's River, rimniiig southwest, end- ing in a long chain of flat lakes, never before on any map, and the record of the battle between my party and the Indians, when twenty-five were killed. This party clam- bered over the California range, were lost in it for twenty days, and entered the open locality to the west, not far from Monterey, where they wintered. In the spring they went south from Monterey, and turned the southern point of the California range, to enter the Great Western Basin. On all the maps of those days the Great Salt Lake had two gi-eat outlets to the Pacific Ocean; one of these was the Buenaventura River, which was supposed to head there;' the name of the other I do not recollect. It was from my explorations and those of my party alone that it was ascertained that this lake had no outlet; that the California range hasiiicd all the waters of its eastern slope without further outlet; that the Buenaventura and all other California streams drained only the western slope. It was for this reason that Mr. W. Ir\ing named tlie Salt Lake after me; and he believed I was fairly entitled to it. * * * * * "Yours, &c., "B. L. E. Bonneville, '■'■Colonel Third Ivfantnj. "Lieut. G. K. Wakken, " Topographical JEnf/incers." It would appear from Colonel Fremont's report that it was a favorite purpose of his, on his return from California, to cross the Great Basin dirertli/, instead of turning it at its southern extremity. He is speaking of what occurred as he was turning the southern end of the Sien-a Nevada, by the Tah-e-chay-pah I'ass, to get on the Spanisli trail. "In the evening a Christian Indian rode into tlie camp, well dressed, with long spurs and a sombrero, and speaking Spanish fluently. It Avas an unexpected appari- tion and a strange and pleasant sight in the desolate gorge of a mountain — an Indian ()•) Colonel BonneTille is liere probably in error. On Finley's map of North America (Philadelphia, 1826), given by Lieutenant Warren in bis Memoir, p. 30, and which purports to include all "the recent geographical discoveries" up to the date stated, the Buenaventura is represented not as one of the outlets of Great Salt Lake into the Pacific, but as the outlet of Lake Salado, doubtless the Lake Sevier of our present mai)8. The two rivers which are represented on this map as disemboguing from the Great Salt Lake into the Pacific are the Rio Los Mongos and Uio Timpauogos. The fact of Father Escalante in 1776 giving the name of liucuaventura to a river (evidently from the plotting of his notes. Green River) which on Humboldt's map is represented as flowing wostwardly into Lake Salado (Sevier) from the Rocky Mountains, the western limits of which ho has left undetermined, points, I think, to the origin of the Rio Buenaventura, and of its subsequent hypothetical extension from Lake Sevier to the Bay of San Francisco. It is due, however, to the accuracy of Escalante to say that he expressly states in his journal that from the manner the Indians spoke of the Sevier River, which he followed and which he calls the Santa Ysabel, he was led to the idea that it and the Buenaventura were the same stream; though he could not really think so, for the reason that there was not enough water in the Sevier. He, however, represents that the Santa Ysabel, after emptying into a lake, flows out of it westwardly, and this may have given rise to the idea that it continued to the Pacific. INTEODUGTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL. 21 face, Spanish costume, jingling spurs, and horse equipped after the Spanish manner. He informed me that he belonged to one of the Spanish missions to the south, distant two or three days' ride, and that he had obtained from the priests leave to spend a few days with his relations in the Sierra. Having seen us enter the j)ass,° he had come do\\'n to visit us. He ai)peared familiarly acquainted with the country, and gave me definite and clear information in regard to the desert-region east of the mountains. I had entered the pass with a strong disposition to vary my route, and to travel directly across toivard the Great Salt Lake, in the view of obtaining some acquaintance with the interior of the Great Basin, while pursuing a direct course for the frontier ; but his representation, which described it as an arid and barren desert, that had repulsed by its sterility all the attempts of the Indians to penetrate it, determined me for the jjresent to relinquish the plan, and, agreeably to his advice, after crossing the Sierra, to continue our intended route along its eastern base to the Spanish trail." ' Thus, like Father Escalante and Walker, Fremont was foiled of directly crossing the Great Basin, on account of its reported arid nature, and evaded it by keeping along its soiithern edge. The next authentic account we have of any explorations within the Great Basin is to be found in the pauq)hlet entitled "Geographical Memoir upon Upper California, in illustration of his map of Oregon and California, by John Charles Frc'mont, addressed to the Senate of the United States." " This memoir and the accompanying map show that Colonel Fremont entered the Great Basin by way of the Timpanogos River,''' followed down the valley of Utah Lake and its outlet, the Jordan River, to its mouth in Great Salt Lake ; turned this lake at its southern extremity ; passed westwardly by Pilot's Peak to AVhitton's Sjiring ; and thence his party was divided, Mr. E. M. Kern, with Joseph Walker as guide, striking northwest\^'ardly for the Humboldt (Mary's) River, following it down to its sink, and thence striking southwestwardly, and passing along the east shore of Carson Lake, to Walker's River ; and Colonel Fremont, with Carson and Godey as guides, and a portion of the party, striking southwestwardly more directly across the Great Basin to near Walkei''s Lake, Avliere the parties again met. Here separating again, Mr. Kern, guided by Walker, proceeded southwardly to tlie head of and along Owen's River and Lake, and thence to AValker's Pass of the Sierra Nevada, where he left the basin and crossed the Sierra into the valley of Lake Tulare (s) Fr^mout (pp. 248 and 270 of his KoiJort) calls this Walker's Pass, but Mr. E. M. Koiu, oue of his assistants at the time, informs me that Walker's true pass was about half a degree to the north of this, and was the pass through which Walker, the discoverer of it, led him in 1845. The pass through which Fr(5mont wont was the Tah-e-chay-pah Pass. (See Kern's Journal, Appendix Q ; also Lieutenant Williamson's Report Pacific R. R. R., vol. v, pp. 17 and 19.) I notice, however, that Fr(5uiout in his letter to the editor of the National Intelligencer, dated June 13, 1854, speaks of both these passes as Walker's, which is the fact so far as that Walker passed into the valley of the San Joaquin by the more northern one, in 1833, and the next year out of it by the other, the Tah-e-ch.ay-iiah. (See note o.) The charge of error upon Frdmont has arisen, doubtless, from the circumstance that he did not in his rejiort of 1843 and 1844 speak of both the passes, but refers to but oue, and that not usually denominated Walker's Pass. (0 Fremont's Report, p. 254.. (lO Senate Miscellaneous Doc. No. 148, 30th Cong., Ist Sess. (r) Fremont's map represents that he passed from the Duchesne's Fork, up Morin's Fork, and thence across the divide to the Timpanogos. This was a physical impossibility, for Morin's Fork, or White Clay Creek, as it is non- called, is a tributary of the Weber, and instead of running into Duchesne's Fork, and being thus a tributary of the Colorado, is, on the contrary, a branch tributary of the Great Salt Lake. In other words, Duchesne's Fork and Morin's Fork are on opposite sides of the divide (the yintah range), and, therefore, could not both be followed up from the Colo- rado side. 22 EXPLORATIONS ACKOSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. and the Rio San Joaquin. Fremont, on the contrary, traveled northwardly to Carson River, where he crossed it at the same point as in his preceding exploration ; and thence to Salmon Trout Creek, up which he traveled and crossed the Sierra Nevada, in latitude oU° 17' 12" N., or 38.2 miles north of his pass of 1844. For a very interesting account of Mr. Kern's branch expedition above alluded to, I refer to his journal, (Appendix Q,) now for the first time given to the public, and wliich he has kindly submitted to me for this purpose ; and as it goes into the particu- lars of his exjjloration of the counti'y along the Humboldt River, Carson, Walker's, and Owen's Lakes, the plat of which furnished the basis for Colonel Fremont's map accompanying his memoir, but a detailed report of which the latter has never given, I consider it a valuable addition to the knowledge of the Great Basin, and take this opportunity of thanking Mr. Kern for it."^ The geographical memoir of Fremont, as already stated, does not enter into the particulars of his exploration of 1845 and 1846, but only gives a general Aiew of the Great Basin. This view is graphic, and in the main, so far as my observations ex- tended, just, and corrects some errors into Avhich, from imperfect data, he had fallen in his previous explorations. The idea Avhich he had entertained of the Basin's being made up of a si/.sfem of s»i(iU hikes and rivers, scattered over aflat country,'^ was found to be entirely untrue, and, on the contrary, that the mountain structure predominated.* The long stretch of mountain range, however, which on his map is represented as being the continuation westwardly of the Wahsatch range, and as separating the waters of the Great Basin from those of the Colorado, is evidently hj'^jothetical.'' (ic) Mr. Kerii, it seemn, fjot on the Humboldt, ou a then old Califoniia emigrant tvagon-road, which followed the Humboldt dowu to its siuk, aud then crosses over to the Carsou Kiver aud, following up its valley, crosses the Sierra Nevada at the head of the South Fork of the American Kiver. This is the route which Hastings and many others who preceded Fremont traveled over with wagons, and which emigrants have since continued to take. Keru followed this Well-beaten road to near Carson Lake, where he left it. I get this information from him personally, and besides, he speaks of this " emigrant wagou-trail" (as he calls it) in his journal. I have endeavored to find out who first tracked this road ; but all I can learu in addition to what Mr. Kern has informed me is the following, which I extract from " The J iinals of San Fianeisco," published by Appletou & Co., 1655, pp. 85, 8(3 : " So early as 1837, several societies were formed in the American States to promote emigration to Oregon and California. In the following years, and particularly in 1843, 1844, 1845, and 1846, many thousand emigrants journeyed across the Kocky and Snowy Mountains, enduring much suffering by the way, to settle in California and the adjacent territory of Oregon." I have thus been i)articular in this matter for the reason that in Fremont's memoir it is not made clear that such a road did exist at the time of his exploration, and that his expedition followed it. And I would here remark that it is to be regretted that officers having char_ge of exploring expeditious do not ahv.ays report when they are following old ivagon-roatts, so that a full history of the route may be given. Had this been done, a great deal of injustice which has been exercised to other officers since the explorations of FriSmont would have been spared, and more liberal and just reports made. Since penning the foregoing, Mr. Kern has courteously furnished me with the following extract from a letter dated San Francisco, November 3, IcGO, from Maj. J. R. Snyder : " Dr. Townshend and party brought wagons as far as TruckeeLake in 1844. I am not confident that he succeeded in getting them over the mountains. Moses Shellenberger remained all winter .at the lake with the property, and I think in the spring they had assistance to bring everything to the fort. "Our party in 1845 brought w.-igons through the Johnson's Pass to the headwaters of Bear Kiver, and soon through the Sacramento Valley, without interruption. . This was, probably, the first party that came directly through. There was no trail or the sign of any where we p.assed, from the Oregon road, over the Goose Creek Mountains, to the bead of M.ary's (Humboldt) Kiver." (x) Fremont's Report, p. 235. (a) Fremont's Memoir, p. 7. (ft) On Fremont's map illustrating his explorations of 1845 and 1846, and which be says in his Memoir, p. 3, was prepared under his directions, it is represeuted that this extensive chain of mountains was " seen from elevated points o J his northern exploring line." I think the colonel must have labored here under a misapprehension, for I passed more INTRODUCrnON TO IIEPORT AND JOURNAL. 23 This view, however, in no way uiilitates against the theory and fact of the Great Basin system as one distinct from the valley of the Colorado ; because, as is to be seen in many instances in the basin itself, a very slig-ht rim or rise of gronnd may be the divJde between distinct snb-basin systems. The next authentic account, in the order of dates, we have of explorations within the Great Basin, is to be found in the report by Capt. Howard Stansbury, Topographi- cal Engineers, of his '■'■Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah in 1849," published by order of Congress. This report I cannot but regard, in a geographical point of view, as of great value. I have had occasion, in many in- stances, in my reconnaissances west of the Eocky Mountains and in the region of the Great Salt Lake, to test the accuracy of Captain Stansbury's work ; and it has been a gratification to me to find that his report and map have represented the country so con-ectly and have been of so much service to me. To him and his assistant, the lamented Captain Gunnison, Topographical Engineers, the public is indebted for a thorough triangular survey of the Great Salt Lake ; and to them is the credit due of a complete exploration of the lake, around its entire limits, a feat which Joseph Walker, by Colonel Bonneville's directions, attempted, as before stated, sixteen years pre- viously ; but which, on account of the desert lying on its west and the consequent want of fresh water, he failed to execute. Stansbury, however, extended his explora- tions into the Great Basin only as far as Pilot Knob, a prominent landmark sixty-four miles in a due west direction from Great Salt Lake. The next authentic account of explorations in the Great Basin is that by Capt. E. G. Beckwith, Third Artillery, the assistant of Captain Gunnison in his expedition for the survey of a railroad-route near the 41st parallel, and who took chai-ge of the expe- dition after the massacre of Gunnison and a portion of his party by Indians, on Sevier Rivei', on the 20th October, 1853. The party entered the Great Basin from the valley of Green River by the Wahsatch Pass and a creek he calls Salt Creek, a branch of the Sevier;" and thence they returned to the usually-traveled route from Los Angeles, and proceeded, by the way of Nephi, Payson, Provo, &c., to Great Salt Lake City. In the ensuing year, 1854, Captain Beckwith explored some of the tributaries of Great Salt Lake and Utah Lake, issuing from the Wahsatch and Uinta Mountains, and, passing by the southern end of Great Salt Lake, he sti'uck generally a north-of- thau a degree nearer to these mouutaina than be did, aud I saw uotbiug of tUeni. Besides, I notice in his letter to the editor of National Intelligeuoer, dated June 13, 18.54, constituting Mis. Doc. House of Reps. No. 8, 33d Cong., 2d Sess., that he passed right along where he has located this extensive range, and yet he says nothing to confirm his previous report. On the contrary, his language in reference to this portion of his route is: "We found the country a high table- laud, bristling ■with mountains, often in short, isolated blocks, and sometimes accumulated into considerable ranges with nnmerous open and low passes." I have, therefore, no doubt that the representation of this long chain of mountains on the maps of Utah, by Colton, Monk, and Mitchell, is a fiction, aud should bo discontinued. (c) Messrs. Beale and Heap passed over nearly this same route in 1853, in advance of Captain Gunnison's party, and after reaching Vegas de Santa Clara, took the Spanish trail route to California. (See Heap's Journal, published by Lippincott, Grambo & Co., 1854.) This journal gives a statement of Rev. J. W. Brier, in which he represents that ho aud a small party found their way, in the fall of 1849, from Vegas de Santa Clara, in a tortuous and, in general, a south- westwardly course, across the southwest corner of the Great Basin to Walker's Pass. Colonel Fremont, also, subsequently, during the winter of 1853-54, followed very nearly the route of Captain Gunnison to Grand River, and thence to Parowau and Cedar City on the Siianish trail. Thence his course was directly west, over the Great Basin to the Sierra Nevada, which, on account of snow, he was obliged to cross over by Walker's Pass, some sixty to eighty miles to the southward. (See Fremont's letter to editor National Intelligencer, of June 13, 1854, constituting House Mis. Doc. No. 8, 2d Sess. 33d Cong.) 24 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. west course across tlie Great Basin to the Humboldt Pass of the Humboklt range; thence south^yestwar(I]y in Ruby Valley to the Hasting's Road Pass of this same range; and thence northwestwardly across the mountains to the south of the Hum- boldt, to Lassen's i\readows, on the Humboldt River. Thence his course was west- wardly through the valley of the Mud Lake to the ]\Iadelin Pass of the east range of the Sien-a Nevada, where he left the Great Basin.'' It will be noticed that up to this time this was the most direct exploration which had been made across the Great Basin from Great Salt Lake Cit}^; but yet it was too far north and too tortuous to be of great value as offering a direct wagon-route to Placen^ille, Sacramento, and San Francisco. Besides, as a wagon-route to Lassen's Meadows I believe it has never been used, on account of its roughness, west of the South Fork of the Humboldt. The next report we have of an attempt being made to cross the Great Basin directly from Great Salt Lake City toward Walker's Lake, for the purpose of avoiding the great detour by the Humboldt River, and getting the shortest route to San Fran- cisco, is to be found in the report of Capt. Rufus Ingalls, United States Ann)", to the Quartei-master-General, dated August 25, 1855, giving an account of the movements of Colonel Steptoe's command to and from Great Salt Lake City. His language on this point is as follows: "The wagon-routes across the continent are so very rough in mountainous regions, and always quite circuitoiis, particularly fi-om Great Salt Lake City to the Bay of San Francisco, that Colonel Stej^toe took measures to have the country lying directly west explored for a more nearly air-line road. Two Mormons were engaged as i^rincipal explorers, and directed to explore from the south end of the Great Salt Lake on the Beckwith route, or near to it, to Carson Valley. This party left the lake in Septem- ber, and returned the following November. It proved quite an expensive trip, owing, in my present opinion, to the tricky character of the Mormons. They made a most flattering report. They said they had discovered a wagon-road along which a com- mand could move with ease, &c., saving 150 or 200 miles. The colonel had not seen Lieutenant Beckwith's report, nor had he any other information than that given by his exploring party; but being deeply sensible of the importance to the Territory of Utah and the overland emigrants of laying out and opening a more direct and practi- cable road than the crooked ones now traveled, he determined to take his command and the large wagon-train over this new route. "As spring ajiproached, however, the chief M(jrmon who had agreed to act as guide became rather restive, and evinced an unwillingness to go, which caused the colonel to distrust him, and shook his confidence in the report he had made of the road. As a matter of security another party was organized, under 'Porter Rockwell,' a Mormon, but a man of strong mind and independent spirit, a capital guide and fear- less prairie man. He went out as far as the great desert tracts lying southwest of the lake, and very nearly on a level with it, and found that at tliat season they could not be passed over, 'unless with Avings,' and returned. It proved fortunate that we did not undertake the march with 0. B. Huntington as guide. The march would have been disastrous; though Rockwell and others are of the opinion that, by going on a (d) p. E. E. E., vol. ii. INTRODUCTION TO EEPOllT AMD JOURNAL. 25 line some thirty miles furtliev south, along the foot of mountains seen in that direction, a fine road can be laid out, avoiding, in a great degree, the desert. I believe such to be the case myself. I am clearly of the opinion that a suitable officer could, by a proper reconnaissance, lay out a road passing by 'Rush Valley,' turning southward and going by New Ri\er, Walker's Lake, into Ciu-sou ^'^alle}', and save 200 miles dis- tance. "This route having been declared impracticable, tlie colonel decided to pass around the north end of the lake, and thence by the Humboldt to Carson Valley."* It thus seems that Colonel Steptoe was deterred from attempting a direct route acro.ss the Great Basin toward San Francisco by the reports which he had received, and took the old roundabout road by way of the Humboldt River.^ I have now, as I believe, exhausted "the subject of the explorations in and ai-ound the Great Basin up to the time of my reporting for duty with the army under General A. S. Johnston in Utah. This history shows that, up to this period, a direct road toward San Francisco, from Great Salt Lake or Camp Floyd across the Great Basin, had never been thoroughly attempted, but that in every instance, from fear of encoun- tering reported deserts, explorers had shrunk back from the ta.sk. It was universally believed in Utah that, at this period, not even a Mormon had ventured to cross the Basin in this direct manner toward Carson or Walker's Lake, though their settlements in Cai'son Valley made such a route so desirable. Some individuals, more venturous than others, had made a less circuitous bend than the old route by the Humboldt River, but yet a direct journey across not one had effected. It was this failure on the part of others to accomplish tins desirable exploration, as well as the possible advantages of a new and short road to San Francisco, which stimulated me to submit, through General Johnston, a project of exploration to the War Department, wdiich had in view the accomplishment of this very enterprise, and thus, if possible, the opening of a wagon-road which would be of benefit to the Army and countr}'. This project of exploration is inserted in the first page of my jom-nal, and to it do I refer for particulars. Suflice it here to remark, it was approved by General Johnston, and met with the sanction of the Secretary of War, Hon. John B. Floyd, and upon the authority of the latter the expedition Avas- ordered, and received the thorough outfit it did at the hands of the former. The result of the expedition has been the opening of a wagon-route which, start- ing from Camp Floyd, branches 28 miles distant into two generally parallel routes, which come together again at a distance from Camp Floyd of 286 miles, and thence are generally coincident the rest of the way to Genoa, at the east foot of the Sierra Nevada. The distance from Salt Lake City to Genoa, by my more northern or out- ward route, and the cuts-off which I made on my return, is 571 miles, and from Camp (e) See Appeudix A, Quartermaster-GeDeral'a Rei>ort, accompaiiyiug Secretary of Wain's Auuual Keport, 1855, vol. i, part ii, coustitutiog Ex. Doc. No. 1, House of Reps., p. 156, 34tU Coug., 1st Sess. (/) Mr. Johu Kirk, superintendent of a road-making party, under instructions from the Interior Department, passed over the road from Honey Lake, by way of the Humboldt River, to the City of Rocks. His assistant engineer, Mr. Francis N. Bishop, iu his report refers to the reports of Frdmont and Beckwith for information respecting the country traversed. (.See Report upon Pacific Wagon Roads, by Albert H. Campbell, General Superintendent, Ex. Doc. No. 108, H. R., 35th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 36, 38.) 4 BU 2G EXPLOKATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF DTAII. Floyd to Genoa 531 miles. By the old Humboldt route, according to the itinerary in Captain Marcy's "Prairie Traveler," the distance from Salt Lake City to Reese's Ranch, Genoa, is 774 miles; and as Camp Floyd is- 40 miles from Great Salt Lake City, the distance from Camp Floyd to Genoa, by this route, is 814 miles. That is, my more northern route from Salt Lake City to Genoa is 203 miles shorter than the old Hum- boldt River route, and fi-om Camp Floyd 283 miles shorter.^ By m}- return, a more southern route, the distance from Genoa to Camp Floyd is SCO miles, or 29 miles longer than my outward route; but while longer, in grade, grass, and extent of culti- vable soil, it is better. Both these new routes have been since traveled by emigrants and droves of cattle, and continue to be traveled by them, and upon the more northei-n is now running the mail and pony express. The Placerville and Saint Joseph Tele- graph Comijany are now also extending their wires along it, and have already reached, as I am informed. Fort Churchill, at the bend of Carson River eastwardly from San Francisco,'' and from Saint Joseph, iMo., westward, the telegTaph is in operation as far as Fort Kearney, on the Platte River. The easy connection of my inward or southern route from Chapin's Spring with Captain Gunnison's along the Savier Ri\'er and Grand River will also be ap])arent, as well as the great advantage of the ncAv wagon-road pass I explored at the head of Coal Creek, a tiibutary of the Timpanogos River, for the extension of my routes over the Uintah Mountains, and by the way of Duchesne's Fork, "White River, and the Middle Park of the Rocky Mountains to Denver City in Kansas; and thence to Saint Joseph or Leavenworth City. The map here- with, on which will be seen these routes, and the topography of the country ti-aversed, and to which, in reading the journal, constant reference should be had, has been pro- jected upon the polycoiiic method on a scale of ^^, and the meridians and parallels of latitude laid down agreeabl}- to data obtained frcm the tables arranged by Mr. J. E Hilgard, and published in the annual report of Professor A. D. Bache, Suptrintendent of the United States Coast Survey, for 1856. (?) It will be noticed that in my project of explorations to tbe War Department, of January 6, 1859, 1 stated tbat 1 hoped to shorten the old route from Camp Floyd, 2(50 miles. The actiual shortening has been 283 miles. (h) In the above I say nothing about the comparative advantages between my routes and the old Humboldt route, except that to those emigrants who go by the way of Salt Lake City or Camp Floyd, there is no question that my route are far preferable, being 203 miles shorter in the first case and 283 in the second, and doubtless as good in respect to hardness, water, and grass, and a great deal better as regards wood. To enable the emigrant, however, as he reads my journal, to in.stitute some sort of comparison between the routes, I give below some extracts from the reports of difter- ent Government offici.-vls iu respect to the character of the old route along the Humboldt River, and inform him, at the same time, that while on my routes at either end there is some desert country to go over, yet that besides the alkaline water, grass, and mire, which emigrants on the old road have to contend with along the Humboldt, they have to cross, in the case of their taking hence the Carson River route, a desert of 45 miles and another of 26 ; and in the ca.se of the Honey Lake route, also a desert of about 60 miles where there is a scarcity of water and grass. I would also state that the distance from the Missouri River, via South Pass, Great Salt Lake City, and my shortest route across the basin, is 41 miles shorter than that by Landers's " Cut-off" and the C irson River route, to San Francisco, and 55 miles shorter than by his " cut-off" and the Honey Lake road. Lieutenant Beckwith, vol. ii, P. R. R. Reports, speaking of the Humboldt River, June 4, 1854, at Lassen's Meadowsi uses the following language : " We moved camp 6.80 miles down the river to a point selected for crossing it, where it has no bottom-land upon It. These low lands being very much overflowed at this season, and miry, are entirely impa.ssable for horses or cattle - and many arriving here in a weak condition, are annually lost by emigrants from becoming mired. But one of the chief causes of the lo.ss of cattle by emigrants upon this stream is allowing them to eat the grass in the river-bottom, which IS extremely unwholesome. The more experienced stock-drovers to California send their cattle back from the river to feed on the nutritious grass of the hills ; but as these are frequently distant from the road and from water, it is only by experience that men learn its importance." And Maj. I. Lynde, Seventh Infantry, in his report to General A. S. Johnston, of October 24, 1859, states that he INTEODUCTION TO ItEPOltT AND JOUKNAL. 27 For the .particulars of each day's travel across the Great Basin, as well as a minute description of the country traversed, I refer to my journal. But as a previous general account always renders an examination into particulars more satisfactory, it may not be unacceptable to say something in this regard. The first thing which will strike one, on looking at the map, Avill be the yrcat iiiiiiiher of mountain rrt«r/e5 which the routes cross in the. Great Basin; and this will appear to him the more remarkable, as the idea has been generally entertained, since tlie explorations of Fremont in 1843 and 1844 (though, as before remarked, he cor- rected the error in his succeeding expedition), that this Great Basin was aflat country, scattered over with a si/stcm of small lairs and rircrs, and destitute of mountains. The tact, on the contrary, is that it is the most mountainous region, considering its extent, we have probably within the limits of our domain ; and so for. from being scattered over with a system of small lakes and rivers, which seem to imply a considerable number of this kind of water area, it has but a limited number of lakes, and they almost entirely confined to the bases of the great Sierra which bound the Basin. These lakes are, proceeding from north to south and along the circumference of the Great Basin, Great Salt Lake, Lake Utah, Sevier Lake, and Small Salt Lake, on the eastern side of the Basin ; and on the western, jjroceeding from south to north. Soda Lake, Owen's Lake, Walker's Lake, the two Carson Lakes, Humboldt Lake, P3'ramid Lake, the Mud Lakes, and Lake Abert. Beside these, there are Franklin Lake and Goslioot Lake, Avhich are to be seen to the east of the East Humboldt range. These constitute all the lakes that have been discovered in the Great Basin, and they are all Avithout outlet. Great Salt Lake is 70 miles long and from 20 to 30 broad. Pyramid Lake and Walker's Lake, the next largest, are both 30 miles long by 10 wide All the others are smaller. Pyramid Lake, Walker's Lake, and Utah Lake, Avhicli are reached GraveHy Ford, on the Ilumboklt, 12tU July, aufl found " tbo mosquitoes and flies very troublesome to the men aud animals, aud the water very much impregnated with alkali." He proceeded thence down the river 118 miles, and says, "tbo greater part of this distance the valley, which does not average more than three- fourths of a mile in width, was covered with water, and deep sloughs running parallel to the river render it impossible to reach the main stream except at long interv.als. The water in these sloughs was so much impregnated with alkali as to render it dangerous for the animals to drink it, aud the mosquitoes aud llies were worse than I ever saw them before." (See doc. accom- pany iug Secretary of War's Report, of ISoO. See also the testimony of my guide, Mr. John Reese, on this point, iu my juuiual, under date of June 12.) It seems from Mr. Albert H. Campbell's report to the Secretary of the Interior, of February 19, 1859, that Mr. John Kirk, the superintendent of the Humboldt division of the wagon-road, " was instructed to select a road from Honey Lake Valley to City of Rocks, avoiding as much as possible the Humboldt, leaving it to the south," the reason assigned being " the alleged deleterious character of the waters of the river, aud its destructive effects upon cattle and horses, which rendered it adyisal)le to avoid it as much as possible." It appears, however, from reading Mr. Kirk's report, that he failed in finding any better route, aud besides, speaks most eucouragiugly of the quality of the water and grass along the Humboldt. His language is: "It is believed that the experience of this season will correct the current opinion iu relation to the peruieious qualities of the water of the river and the grass upon its bank. Except at the lake and its vicinity, we found the water good and the grass superior, both iu quantity and quality. From the examinations already made, it is evident that the greatest difficulty in the road is between the west bend of the Humboldt and California." Ho does not say why, but probably it is on account of the desert. I give tbo above statemeuts, and it is for the reader to draw his own inference iu respect to the character of the water and gr.ass generally along the Humboldt toward its lower end and westward toward the Sierra Nevada. 1 mention these objections to this route, not to condemn it — for if emigrants do not go by the way of Salt Lake City or Cami> Floyd, it may possibly be the most advantageous route — but ouly that, as already remarked while reading my journal, they may be enabled to institute for themselves some sort of comparison and arrive at some definite conclusion iu the matter ; for, after all, in the select.ion which emigrants make of any of th« routes across the contiue nt, they will .always find that it will be a selection of that which is couiparatively bjtter aud not that which is absolutely good. Every one of them, they will find, have some portiou of exceptiouil d'3-iort cjuitry to hi traversed. 28 EXPLOKATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. fresh- water lakes, abound in fine, large trout, and Carson Lake in fish of a smaller kind. Great Salt Lake, according to Stanshury, contains 20 per cent, of pure salt.' The principal rivers, -which, on account of their Avidth and depth, require bridging or feny, in their flush state, during the time of melting-snow, are the Bear, Weber, Roseaux or Malade, Jordan, Timpanogos, S^^anish Fork, and Sevier Rivers, which have their soiirces in the Wahsatch Mountains, on the east side of the Basin, and flow into the lakes near the base of these mountains ; the Mojave, Owen's, Walker's, Car- son, and Truckee, or Salmon Trout Rivers, which have their sources in the Sieira Nevada, and flow into lakes at their base and sink ; and the Humboldt River, which flows from east to south of west along the northern portion of the Basin and sinks. The largest of these is probably the Humboldt, about 300 miles long ; and the next. Bear River, 250 miles long. The others range from about 40 to 120 miles in length. These streams vary from 50 to about 150 feet in width, and from 2 to about 15 in depth, depending upon the season and locality. All the other streams are of small extent ; and taking their rise in the many mountain ranges with which the Basin is traversed (generally from north to south), they seldom flow beyond their bases, where, in the alluvion, they sink. These streams are generally so small that you can jump across them, and seldom require bridging. The large as well as the small streams mentioned, when not brackish, not unfrequently contain trout. The trend of the mountain ranges is almost invariably north and south, the limits of variation being between the true and magnetic north. The mountains rise quite abruptly from the plain, and from bases varying in breadth from a few miles to about twelve. These mountain ranges are so frequent and close together as to make the area between them more like valle}'s than plains, and the roads cross them on the average every 10 or 15 miles. Li length they equal the ranges. Longitudinally they are nearly level, the inclination in portions not being perceptible ; sometimes tending northward and sometimes southward, and, not unfrequently, they are made up of minor valleys, separated by small ridges or rims. In cross-section they are slightly concave. The most massive and lofty mountains, commencing at Camp Floyd and pro- ceeding westward, are the Qquirr, Guyot, Goshoot or Tots-arr, LTn-go-we-ah, Mon-tim, Humboldt, We-ah-bah, Pe-er-re-ah, and Se-day-e ranges. Of these, the Tots-aiT, Vn- go-we-ah, Humboldt, Pe-er-re-ah, and Se-day-e are the most massive and lofty, snow appearing in patches upon their loftiest portions the whole year round. The lengths of the ranges in some instances our explorations enabled us to determine were at least 120 miles, and they there extended into unknown regions beyond the field of our explorations. These ranges attain, in the case of Union Peak, the highest point of the Tots-aiT or Goshoot range, an altitude above the plain of from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, or of from 10,000 to 11,000 feet above the sea. In the case of the Oqnirr range, the highest point. Camp Floyd Peak, according to Lieutenant Putnam's measurement, by theodolite, was found to be 4,214 feet above Camp Floyd: and as this locality, by barometric measurement, is 4,8G0 feet above the sea, the peak referred to is i),074 feet above the sea. The highest pass was on our return-route and through the Un-go-we-ah (i) Stansbury's report, " Salt Lake," pp. 418, 419. 151456 INTRODUCTION TO EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 29 range. By barometric nieasurement it was 8,140 feet above the sea. The passes are all, with but little difficulty, surmountable by wagons; but their grades, given in Appendix F, and also on the profiles of the routes. Appendix E, will show, I think, that as railroad routes they are impracticable, except (in comparison with f>tlicr proba- bly attainable routes) at an inadmissible cost. The chief agricultural characteristic of the country traversed is desert, the ex- ceptions being as follows : On my more northern route, in the case of the large valleys between the mountain ranges, going westward from Camp Floyd: Rush Valley, Pleasant Valley (the valley of Fi.sh or Deep Creek, not on the route, but in vicinity of Pleasant Valley), Ruby Valley, Walker's Valley, and Carson Valley — all these are cultivable in limited portions ; and on my return route, going eastward from Genoa, Carson Valley (conmion to outward routes), Steptoe Valley, Antelope Valley, and Crosman Vallej'. The elevation of all these valleys above the sea varies from 3,840 feet, the lowest depression of Carson Valley, to 6,146 feet, the altitude of Steptoe Valley. Fttr a particular description of these and their capabilities, I refer to my journal at the projjer dates. Carson Valley has already shown its capacity to grow the "small cereals and garden vegetables; and, I doubt not, the other valleys named, though higher in altitude, will be found sufficiently warm to matm-e the gi'owth of the more hardy cereals, plants, and roots. It will be noticed, by reference to the journal, that my return or more southern route, though 27 miles longer than my outward, with the cut-otf made on my return, is much the best, in respect to cultivable valleys and grass, and also timber. The other exceptions to the desert character of the Basin are the small, narrow valleys and ravines of the mountain streams, which, taking their rise high up in the mountains, course down to the plains or main valleys and sink. These valleys, though rich, are generally too high in altitude, and therefore too cold for arable purposes, but are of great value in furnishing, in great abiuidance, the small mountain bunch-grass, which has fattening qualities almost, if not quite, equal to oats. Another exception to the universal characteristic of desert is the abundance of the dwarf cedar, which is to be seen on almost every one of the mountain ridges, and Avhich high up in the mountains is not .unfrequently intermingled with the pine, pinon balsam, quaking ash, and mountain mahogany. The abundance of this cedar, as well as occasional supply of other kinds of timber, will make either of my routes, inde- pendent of their being the shortest across the Great Basin, particularly in connection with a direct route froni Camp Floyd to Denver City by way of the Timpanogos River and Duchesne's Fork, decidedly the most practicable for the overland telegrajjli. The portions of the country traversed which may be called immitigatingly desert are, on my more northern roiite: — the region between Simpson's t\prings, in the Champlin Mountains, and the Sulphur Springs, at the east base of the Tots-arr or Goshoot range, a distance of 80 miles, (albeit the gi-ass and water at Fish Springs and water at Devil's Hole intervene to make the greatest distance between water and grass 48 i miles and between water 43 miles) ; between the west base of the Se-day-e Mountains and Carson Lake, a distance of 50 miles ; (this is also mitigated by the grass and water got by digging at Middle Gate, and at Sidphur Spring,) and between Carson Lake and Walker's Rivers, a distance of 2 1 miles. On my return, or more 30 EXPLORATIONS AGliOSS THE GKEAT BASIN OF UTAH. southern route, between Carson River and Carson Lake, a distance of 23 miles, and between tlie Peny range and the Chainplin ]\Iountains, a distance of 103 miles, though Chapin's Springs and Tyler Spring, with their limited pasture-grounds and the good Indian Spring, with its small supply of water but abundance of grass and cedar, within this interval, alleviate, in a very material degree, this last stretch, and take it out of the category of continuous uimiitigated desert. (See itineraries, Appen- dixes A and B, f(jr jjarticulars and directions.) The most aijundaiit plant in the Great Basin is tlie aikmisia, or wild sage, and as it is seen almost everywhere in the valleys and on the mountains, it gives its peevdiar bronze color to the general face of nature. Sometimes this all-prevailing color is modified by the more vivid green of the Sarcohatus vcrmlcularis, or greasewood; some- times by the yellowish light-green of the Lynogris, or rabbit-bush, both of wdiich are found interspersed not infre(piently among the artemisia and on the mountains, not infrequently by the dark color of the scrub cedar, and occasionally of tlie pine and balsam. TliLs plant, the artemisia, I have seen covering probably as much as nine- tenths of the whole country intervening the east base of the Rocky Mountains (longi- tude 104°) and the east base of the Sierra Nevada (longitude 119° 40'), or over'a l)readth of more than SOO miles, beyond winch, oast or west, it does not groAV. In the aggregate it "constitutes no inconsiderable liinderance to the progress of teams over untracked virgin regions. In height it is ordinarily about 2^ feet, though I have seen it in one locality as high as 8 feet. Near the ground its trunk usually i-anges in diameter from 3 to G inches, though I have seen it, when very luxuriant, nearly a foot. It is quite brasli in iiljer, and therefore easily trampled down, and the light soil admits of its being readily ])lucked up by the roots. On this account, and because of its rich resinous properties, it makes a very c|uick and acceptable fuel, and, indeed, in the main valleys and plains, A^Iiere ther^ is scarcely ever any timber, it cfinstitutes the chief resource in this particular. It also constitutes an easy and ever available means to the Digger Indians of making for themselves circular inclosures or barriers of about four feet in height against the Avind, and Avhich, summer and Avinter, are their only habitations. It is also used by tliem to make their long line of fences, on which they hang, A-ertically, their nets across the paths of the rabbits, and in this way catch them. It emits, particularly Avhen brushed by your person or trampled upon, a very strong, pungent odor, resembling both camphor and turpentine, and the atmosphere is almost constantly cliarged Avith its aroma. Indeed, the idea is ever uppermost that on account of this property it Avill eventually be found of A'alue in the materia mcdica and mechanic arts. It seems to thrive best in an arid, dry climate, and its presence;-is a sure indication of the desert character of the soil and of its utter Avorthlessness for purposes of agriculture.' The Sarcohatus vermicnhiris, or greascAvood, is the next most abundant plant, and, like the artemisia, is found co-extensive Avith the country lying between the Rocky I\Iountains and the Sierra NcA'ada. It is sometimes found alone, but more frequently scattered among the artemisia, and, like it, on account of its rich carbonaceous quali- ties, is a very common fuel on the plains. Its height, ordinarily, is 3 to 4 feet. It (I) See scientific description of this shrub, by Dr. Goo. Engelmann, Appendix M. INTRODUCTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL, 31 soenia to flourissli best in :i nitlier moist, argilliu-eoiis soil. On acconnt of its thorny spines it is a veiy considerable hindcranee to nion and beasts Avlierover it has to be encountered. The wood, when dr}', is very hard, and on this account is used by the Digger Indians to generate fire, in the primitive mode, by the friction of two pieces, as described under date of June 3. Its spines are also used by the Indians to barb their arrows.™ A third plant, Avhich, probably, is about as abundant as the grcasewood, and is co-extensive with it and the artem'isla, is the Lynof/ris, or rabbit-bush, sketched in journal under date of Mny 2. In height it is generall}' 2h to 5 feet, and, like the greasewood, commingles with the artcmis'ia. The rabbit is mostly found where it prevails.™ Another tolerably comuion jjlant, which, however, does not shoA\' itself to an}^ considerable extent until 3-ou reach the western portion of the Great Basin, is the Eplcdra pcdHcuJata, a sketch of wliich is seen in journal, under date of Ma}^ 27." A fourth plant, or, as it may be called, a tree, which I have never seen anv- ■\vhere else than in the mountains of the Great Basin, is what the Mormons call the mountain mahogany. It is found in scattered groves, usually near the summit of the mountain-passes, and, at a distance, looks like the apple-tree, its leaf resembling some- what that of the live-oak. It is somewhat scrubby in appearance, ramifying in several branches from the ground, and not unfrequently attains a height of from 15 to 20 feet, and an aggregate diameter, across its branches, in the tree, of 15 to 20 feet. Its wood is very hard, and is used for cogs, journals, gudgeons, &c. It is not seen in consider- able quantities. (See sketch in jovmial, under date of May 12.)"' The chief complexion of the face of the country is, I have already remarked, a sort of bronze color, caused by the all-prevailing artcmisia, which has in the map a color of this kind. Another characteristic which occasionally obtains is the white alkaline effloresence which margins, in portions, some of the streams, such as Meadow Creek, Steptoe Creek, Reese's River, AValker's River, and which sometimes characterizes whole valleys, such as White and Alkali valleys. These streams and valleys, when seen in the distance, have all the appearance of being draped in virgin snow. The alkali, howe\'er, does not appear to atiect the taste of the water of the streams men- tioned, though that of the Avells dug in the alkaline valleys were nauseously unpala- table. This saline efflorescence is a sure poison to vegetation, and hopelessly worth- less is any soil where it is seen. It is the fact, too, (and it is one of great im})ortance in this Tenitory), that soils which have been oi'iginally quite ])roductive under cultiva- tion have, by that very process, gradually become more and more alkaline, until at length, on account of theii' unjiroductiveness from this cause, they have of necessity been abandoned. This has been the history of many a field in Great Salt Lake and Utah Valleys, and I am inclined to the belief that it Avill be the history of the greater portion of the cultivable land- of the Territory. These soils, particularly of the val- leys, on account of the streams within them having no outlets, are more or less impreg- (m) See aciontific description, by Dr. Geo.Engelmann, Appendix M. 32 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. iiatecl with the salts which are 1)rought down by the rains from the mountains, and tliese salts, it would seem, are graduall}^ evolved to the surface by the process of tillage. Indeed, the truth seems to be that not only is the cultivable portion of the Terntory a ver}^ inconsiderable fraction of the whole area, but even this portion is destined, in all probability, l)y tillage to become more and more conti-acted. The abandoned ruins of cities in New^ Mexico point, most indubitably, with their present surrounding desert wastes, to a like deterioration of soil, and such is likely to be the tate of the present cultivable portion of Utah." The great staple is wheat, of which, in the valley of Great Salt Lake, I have been informed as many as seventy-five bushels have been raised to the acre. This, however, is rare. Forty bushels are more common. Oats and barley thrive; corn is raised in some of the warmer valleys, but the high altitude of the valleys generally makes the climate too cold for this cereal. Potatoes, garden vegetables, and berries do well. The peach, apricot, and melon also mature, and the apple is raised in Great Salt Lake Valle}'. It umst be borne in mind, however, that in order to raise anything in this Territory, the land, in addition to the usual tillage, has to be irrigated. The kind of fencing used, on account of the difficulty of obtaining suitable rails, is the mud or adobe wall, which, in consequence of degradation from rains, i-equires extensive repairs every spring. In regard to the resources of the Territor}-, agricultural, manufacturing, and per- sonal, I refer the reader to the interesting paper from Dr. Garland Hurt, constituting Aj^pendix N. To this should be added the arable capabilities of the valley of Green River, in the eastern portion of the Territory; of Crosman, Antelope, and Steptoe Val- le3'S, on my more southern route; and of AValker's and Carson's Valleys, in the western portions of the Territory. In regard to the pastoral capabilities of the Territory, I may say that they abound in a number of valleys, and on the moinitains generally, the chief difficulty being the preservation of stock in the winter, which, on account of the rigor of the climate, except in the lowest and warmest valleys, or under artificial shelter, cannot endure till spring. The Government and Government contractors have in the aggregate lost, I may say, thousands of heads from this cause since the entry of the Army into the Territory in the fall of 18.'37. In relation to the propriety of the term "Great Basin," as applied to this region of countiy, I may remark that if by it the notion is entertained that this great area is chiefly of a hydrographic character, that is filled with lakes and rivers, the idea is eiToneous. Erroneous will also be the idea that, because it is called a basin, it must, as a wdiole, present a generally concave surface. The truth is, this is only a basin so far as that the few lakes and streams that are found within it sink within it, and have no outlet to the sea. It may also be considered as made up of several minor or subsidiary basins, and, regarding them in succession, not in the order of magnitude, we have — 1st. Lake Sevier Basin, elevation of lowest point above the sea slightly less than 4,G90 feet. 2d. Great Salt Lake Basin, elevation of lowest point above the sea, 4,170 feet. (o) See my report of Navajo expedition, Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 64, Slst Cong., Ist seas., pp. 74 and 106. INTEODUCTFON TO IlErORT AND JOURNAL. 33 ?)d. ITnniljolclt lliver IJasiii, elevation of lowest jioiiit above the sea, near Lassen's Meadows, according to Beckwitli, 4,147 feet. 4th. Carson River Basin, eleA'ation of lowest ])oint above the sea, at Carson Lake, 3,840 feet. 5tli. Wallcer's River Basin, elevation of lowest point al)OAe the sea, 7 miles above Walker's Lake, 4,072 feet. (Walker's Lake Basin estimated at abont same as Carson, 3,840 feet.) 6th. Owen's Lake Basin, altitvide unknow n. 7th. Mojave River Basin, estimation of lowest point above the sea (Williamson), 1,111 feet. All these valleys or snb-basins, it will be noticed, are along' the outskirts of the Great Basin, just Avithin its circumference; and as the valleys of the great central area have an average altitude of about 5,500 feet, which is, for much the larger portion of the area, about 1,500 feet higher than said basins, and for the Mojave portion over 4,000 feet higher, it will at once be apparent that, as a whole, the Basin should be conceived as an elevated central region extended over much the greater portion of the Basin, and in proximity to the circumference, sloping toward the sub-basins bordering the cir- ciimfereijce. When this idea is entertained, and this extended central portion is in addition conceived of as being traversed by high and extensive ranges of mountains, on an average about 15 miles apart, ranging north and south, and coiTespondingly cor- rugated with intermediate valleys of commensm-ate lengths, and the mind conceives at the same time that the order of depression of the basins is from Lake Sevier, w'here it is least, around successively by Great Salt Lake, Humboldt River Valley, Carson Lake, Walker's Lake, to the valley of the Mojave, where it is much the greatest, a very good mental daguerreotype can be had of the Great Basin inside of its inclosing mountains. From this description I think it will be obvious that, while the so-called Great Basin is in some small degree a basin of lakes and streams, it is pre-eminently a basin of mountains and valleys. In regard to the geological character of the mountains within the Great Basin, I would remark that, from Camp Floyd west, as far as about Kobah Valley, those of carboniferous origin much predominate ; though over the desert proper, between Simpson's Springs and the Tots-arr range, the igneous are the characteristic ; and near the Humboldt range those of Devonian age obtain. From Kobah Valley to the Sierra Nevada the ranges are almost exclusively of igneous origin, and present few indications of stratified rocks. The knowledge, geologically, of this extensive terra incognita, now for the first time given to the public in the reports of my assistant, Mr. Engelmann, and Mr. Meek, the paleontologist, is an interesting result of the expedition, andAvillgo far to fill up the gap that remained to complete the geological profile of our country from the Atlantic to the I'acific, on the line of our explorations. These reports, it will be noticed, do not only discuss the geology and paleontology of the Great Basin, but of the whole route through from Fort Leavenworth to the Sierra Nevada, and to no two geologists, probably, could the work have been better assigned, since Mr. Engel- mann was the geologist of Lieutenant Bryan's expedition to the Rocky ]\[ouutains in 1856, and of my expedition all the way from Fort Leavenworth to Sierra Nevada and 5b u 34 EXPLOEATIOXS ACllOSS TBE GREAT EASIN OF UTAH. back ; and Mr. Meek's well-earned reputation as a paleontologist "will certainly engage for liim the attention of the scientific world. As these reports are veiy thorough, and include many facts of great interest to the geologist, I respectfully ask for them the perusal which their importance in reference to so great an extent of country demand. In regard to the Indians, for a particitlar descnption of their persons and habits, I refer the reader to my journal, with its illustrations, and to the journal of Mr. Kern (Appendix Q) ; also the communication of Dr. Garland Hurt (Appendix 0), whose residence in Utah for several years as Indian agent and well-known intelligence and character for truth and patriotism render his essay of great value. I would also refer to the communication of Maj. Frederick Dodge, Indian agent, incorporated in my journal of June 12, for information respecting the Pi-Utes and the "Wa-shoes inhabit- ing Western Utah and Eastern California. The Sho-sho-nees are divided by Dr. Hurt into the Snakes, Bannacks, To-si- witches, Go-sha-Utes, and Cum-um-pahs, though he afterward classes the two latter divisions as hybrid races between the Sho-sho-nees and Utahs, and this last I think the best classification.^ The Snakes are fierce and warlike in their habits and inhabit the country border- ing on Snake River, Bear River, Green River, and as far east as Wind River. They are well supplied witli horses and fire-amis, and subsist principally by hunting. They are the enemies of the Crows and Blackfeet on account of the buffalo having disap- peared from their country west of the Rocky Mountains and their being obliged from necessity to hunt them as trespassers on the tenitoiy of these tribes east of the mount- ains. They have also been at war with the Utes for several generations. They, however, profess friendship for the whites, and it is their boast that, under their chief, Wash-i-kee, the blood of the white man has never stained their soil. It is cei-tain, jiowever, that small parties of this band, living in Box Elder County, in the Tenitory, with some Bannack Indians from Oregon, robbed, during the season of 1859, three parties of emigrants on the emigration road to the north and east of Great Salt Lake, and killed ten or twelve of their number.'' The Bannacks inhabit the southern borders of Oregon along the old Humboldt (j))Dr. I. Fomey, Buperiatendent of ludiaii affdirs ju Utah, classes and uumbera the various tribes and bands of Indians iu Utah as follows : Sho-sho-uees, or Snakes 4 500 Bannacks 500 Uinta Utes __ j qqq Spanish Fork and San Pete farms _ 9qO Pah-Vanta (Utes) 700 Pey-utes (South) _ _ 2 200 Pey-ntes (West) '.."'.!'..".'.'..'.'.!.".!!.'.'.!!'.!!!! 6^000 Elk Monnt.ain Utes 2 000 Wa-sho of Honey Lake 700 18.500 The Sho-sho-nees claim the northeastern portion of the Territory for about four hundred miles west, and from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five miles south from the Oregon line. The Utes claim the balance of the Territory. (See Pres. Mes. and Doc, 1859-'G0, part 1, p. 733.) (!/)Seereport of General Johnston to headquarters of the Army, of November 2, 1859; Supt. I. Forney's letter to Major Porter, of September 29; and Maj. I. Lynde's report to General Johnston, of October 24, accompanying Annual Report of Secretary of War for 1859. INTRODUCTION TO REPORT AND JOURNAL. 35 River emlgvant-i-oad, uiul have the reputation of infesting- tlie emigration along that jjortion of the route, and of being of a very thievish, treacherous cliaracter. The To-sa-witches, or White Knives, inhabit the region along the Humboldt River, and, according to Dr. Hurt, have the character of being very treacherous. We met them ranging in small parties between the Uu-go-we-ah Range and Cooper's Range, on our more northern route. The Ute tribe Dr. Hurt divides into the Pah-Utes, Tamp- Pah-Utes, Chevoriches, Pah-vants, San Pitches, and Py-eeds. The Utahs proper inhabit the waters of Green River south of Green River Mountains, the Grand River and its tributaries, and as far south as the Navajo Countr}'. They also claim the country bordering on Utah Lake and as far south as the Sevier Lake as theirs. They are a brave race, and subist principally by hunting. The buffalo having left their country and gone east over the Rocky Mountains, their hunting this game in the country of the An-apalioes and Chey- ennes brings them in continual conflict. Dr. Hurt says it is his opinion, from a fomiliar acquaintance with them, that there is not a braver tribe to be found among the aborigines of America than the Utahs ; none Avarmer in their attachments, less relent- ing in their hatred, or more capable of treachery. Their present chief is Arrapcnc, Indian name Sin-ne-roach,'' the successor of the renowned Wacca, sometimes errone- ously called Walker. Some of the weaker bands both of the Snakes and Utahs are almost continually in a state of starvation, and are compelled to resort almost exclu- sively to small animals, roots, grass, seed, and insects for subsistence. The General Govermnent has opened forms for these Indians in the valleys of the Spanish Foj-k and San Pete. The Pah-vants occupy the Corn Creek, Paravau and Beaver Valleys, and the Aalley of the Sevier. On Corn Creek they have a fami under the supervision of the General Government. It Avas a portion of this tribe that massacred Captain Gunnison and a portion of his party. Their chief is Kan-nash. The Pi-eeds live adjoining the Pah-vants doAvn to the Santa Clara, and are rep- resented as the most timid and dejected of all the Utah bands. They barter their children to the Utes proper for a few tiinkets or bits of clothing, by whom they are again sold to the Navajos for blankets, &c. They indulge in a rude kind of agricul- ture, which they probably derived from the old Spanish Jesuits. Their productions are corn, beans, and squashes. The Mountain MeadoAV massacre is ascribed by the Mormons to them, but, as Dr. Hurt justly remarks, " any one at all acquainted with them must perceive at once how utterly absurd and impossible it is for such a report to be true". Indeed the report of Mr. I. Forney, the su]Derintendent of Indians in Utah, of September 29, 1859, fixes the stigma of this horrible outrage on the Jlonnons.' Their chiefs ai'e Quanan-ah and Tatsigobbets. The Goshoots Dr. Hurt classes, as I have remarked, among the Sho-sho-nees ; but, according to Mr. George W. Bean, my guide in the fall of 1858, and who has (r) This chief, according to the uewspapers, has recently died. (.s)The Commissiouer of Indian Affairs, A. B. Greenwood, in his report of November 20, 1359, to Secretary of the Interior, says, in relation to this matter : "Many of the numerous depredations upon the immigrants have doubtless been committed by them in conse- quence of their destitute and desperate condition. They have, at times, been compelled either to steal or starve ; but there is reason to apprehend that in their forays they have often been only the tools of lawless whites residing in the 3G EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE CiliEAT BASIN OF UTAIT. lived in Utah for the last ten or twelve year.s, and been frequently employed as inter- preter among- the Indians, they are an offshoot from the Ute Indians, and are the off- spring' of a disaffected portion of this tribe, that left their nation about two generations ago, under their leader or chief (io-slup, and hence their name Go-shii)-Utes, since contracted into Go-shutes. I am disposed, too, to believe that they are thus derived from the foct that I noticed among them several Utes who, while claiming that tliey belonged to the Utes proper, yet had intermarried with and were living among them. These Goshoots are few in number, not more than probably 200 or oOO, and reside principally in the grassy valleys Avest of Great Salt Lake, along and in the vicinity of my roads as far as the Un-go-we-ah range. They are of the very lowest type of mankind, and illustrate very forcibly the truth which the great physicist of our country, Prof Arnold Guyot, of Princeton College, has brought out so sig- nificantly in his admirable work, "Earth and Man," to wit: '■^ That the confour, Uilief, and relative position of the crust of the earth is intimately connected with the development of man.^^ These Indians live in a barren and, in Avinter, on account of its altitude, a cold climate, and the consequence is that they are obliged to live entirely on rabbits, rats, lizards, snakes, insects, rushes, roots, grass-seeds, &c. They are more filthy than lieasts, and live in habitations which, summer and winter, are nothing more than circu- lar inclosures about three feet high, made of the arteinisia or sage-bush or branches of the cedar, thrown around in the circumference of a circle, and which serve only to break off the wind. As the thermometer in the Avinter nuist at times be as low as zero, and there must fall a good deal of snow, it Avill readily be perceived that they must suffer a great deal. Anything like an inclosed lodge or Avick-e-up of any sort I did not see among them. Their dress, summer and Avinter, is a rabbit skin tunic or cape, Avhich comes doAvn to just beloAV the knee, and seldom liaA^e they leggins or moccasins.' Territory. In some of the worst outrages of this kind, involving .the lives as well as the property of our emigrants, the latter are known to have participated. That this was the case iu the atrocious and ilreadfiil massacre at 'Mountain Meadow,' in September, 1857, the facts stated in the report of the superintendent, in regard to that occnrrenoo, leave no room for doubt. Tlie lives of from one hundred and fifteen to one huiulred and twenty peaceable emigrants, of all ages ,ind both sexes, were inhumanly and brutally sacrificed on tliat occasion, some young cbildrcn only l)cing sjiared." (See " Message and Doc., 18.'')9-'G0, pp. 3SG and 7:!7-74().") (/) Washington, .June 14, 18(;0. Dk.vu Siu : Permit me to bring to yonr knowledge as a fact, which it is pleasing to mo to inform you, that I have iu ray exploratiou .across the continent given to hical Engineers. To Prof. AiiNoi.D GuvoT, LL.D., Princeton, N. J. Princeton, N. J., June 20, 1860. Dear Sin : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your most acceptable letter, and I thank you very haartily for the kind feeling expressed iu it. Guyot range of mountains will recall to my mind more than a lofty mountain chain; it will tell me of the sympathy that truths dear to me, because fruitful of much good and enjoyment for me and for many others, have found with you. Believe me, dear sir, when I say that I feel particularly gratified to fiud a man of your busy profession and of your attainments so well acquainted with, and so appreciative of, the views so briefly exposed iu the little volume to which you allude in so kind terms. Common convictions and a common faith on such grand topics are a bond of union among meu which cannot easily be broken. So I shall now feel when think- ing of you. I have read with great interest the geological notice of Messrs. Meek and Englemann on your geological discoveries. The presence of all the great geological formations, from the Silurian and Devonian up to the Tertiary, in the Great Basin, and also the circumstance of the Paleozoic rocks constituting the chief formations west of the Salt Lake, are data which throw much light on the geological history of this country. I shall look with eagerness to your coming report for more light still on these regions so long unknown; and I am very glad that you did not forget the study of the poor human beings who were the first tenants of these wildernesses, and of the influence that the niggard nature amidst which their lot is cast had on shaping their preseut condition. I remain, my dear sir, with great regard and very truly, yours, A. Guyot. To Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topograpliical Engineers, United States Army. 38 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. Sho-sho-nee, could not understand them." Tliis tribe is frequently confoiuided with the Pah-Utes, with which they show only a distant affinity. The Washoes, according to Major Dodge, "number about 900 souls, and inhabit the country along the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada, from Honey Lake on the north to the Rio Clara, the west branch of the Walker's River, a distance of 150 miles. They are not inclined to agricultural pursuits nor any other advancement toward civilization. They are destitute of all the necessaries to make life even desirable. There is not one horse, pony, or mule in the nation. They are peaceable, but indo- lent. In the summer they wander around the shores of Lake Bigler, in the Sierra Nevada, principally subsisting on the fish found in it. In the winter they lay about in the artemisia of their different localities, subsisting on a little grass-seed." The Indian vocabulary (Appendix J) will show that they are a distinct tribe, and in no way as- similated with the Utes, Sho-sho-nees, or Py-Utes. The Indians living along or in the vicinity of my routes are, as above stated, starting from Camp Floyd, first, the Go-shoots, as far as the Un-go-we-ah range ; second, the Humboldt Indians, from the Un-go-we-ah range to Cooper's range; thu'd, the Diggers or Pah-Utes, who are of Sho-sho-nee origin, from Cooper's range to the Pe-er-re-ah range ; fourth, the Pi-Utes, from the Pe-er-re-ah range to the Sieixa Nevada ; and, fifth, the Washoes, at the base of the Sierra Nevada. All these Indians, as they seldom carry any weapons but the bow and arrow, will be found perfectly harmless to parties of emigrants who are tolerably well anned and sufficiently on the alert not to invite attacks or theft. In our case, as a general thing, it was as much as we could do to get them to visit us at all, their fright was so great. Indeed, never do emigrants meet with any difficulty from Indians passing over the plains, when they observe but ordinary Angilance and care.'' (m.) Mr. J. Forney, superintendent of ludiaus in Utah, in his report of September 29, 1859, to the Secretary of the Interior (Mess, and Doc, 1859-'60, p. 738), speaking of these Indians, says, " the Utah-Pah- Vant and Py-Ute, although they are designated by several diiferent names, yet all have emanated from one nation or tribe and speak the same language." My vocabulary (iu Appendix J) will show that in this last particular he is incorrect ; at least so far as the Py-Utes are concerned. (f.) Major Lynde, in his report to General Johnston, of October 24, 1859, giving an account of his expedition against the ludians'who had committed some mass.acres on the old Humboldt River road, makes the following remarks in relation to the carelessness of emigrants he met in respect to proper vigilance against Indian surprises and attacks : " Every train that has been attacked acknowledge that they were perfectly unprepared for defense. The Indians watch the trains from the hills, and if they see a train well-armed and watchful, they do not molest it. I have seen many trains on the road during the summer which had plenty of arms, but they were carried iu the w.igons, and in many cases without being loaded. The emigrants would laugh at mo when I told them of the necessity of always having their arms ready for instant use." (See report of Secretary of War, 1859, p. 241.) EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. REPOET AND JOURNAL. REPORT AND JOUHNAL. On the Gth of January, 1859, at Camp Floyd, Utah Territory, I had the honor to submit, through General A. S. Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, to the War Department, for its approval, the following project of exploration: Ol'FICE OF ToPOGKAPniCAL ENGINEERS, DF.PAItTMBNT OF UtAII, Camp Floyd, Utah Territory, January 6, 1859. Sin: Agreeably to instructions from the headquarters of tbis department, as you are aware, a now route bas been opened from Fort Dridger to tbis post, by tbe way of Tinipanogos River Valley, wbich, in connection witb Lieutenant Hry- au's route, or even by tbe old Soutb Pass road, makes an excellent link in tbe cbaiu of routes from tbe States to tbis post. There bas also been explored, by direction of tbe commanding general, and is now in use by the United States as a postal route, a route west of this post across the Great Salt Lake Desert, which has been extended by the mail company all the way to the Humboldt, and which they report as promising a hard wagon-road, with a sufficiency of fuel, water, and grass. These improvements in the old route have already been of great service to the Army and country, but it is believed that still greater can be made. It is believed that a direct route from tbis post to Carson Valley, in Utah, cau be obtained, which would avoid tbe detour by the Humboldt to the right, and that by the Las Vegas and Los Angeles route to the left, and that it could be obtained so as to make the distance hence to San Francisco less than 800 miles ; that is, that a route could bo found in this direction 2G0 miles shorter than tbe Humboldt River route aud 390 miles shorter than tbe Los Angeles route. To make this plain, I respectfully refer you to the accompanying extract from my report of December 28 to these headcpiarters, giving a detailed account of reconnaissances recently made by me under the order of tbe commanding general. In tbis connection I would respectfully state that it is believed, also, that a still shorter and better route may be obtained from Camp Floyd to Fort Leavenworth than by either the Soutb Pass or Lieutenant Bryan's route. I refer now to a route hence to tbe headwaters of the Arkansas and thence via Bent's Fort to Fort Leavenworth. This route, it will be noticed by reference to the map recently compiled in the office of explorations and surveys, promises to be at least as short as either of tbe others, and might prove considerably better as a wagon-route. The routes passed over by Fremont, bo far as his published report informs me, as well as that of Captain Gunnison, which is too far south, I should suppose, would be impracticable for the object in view ; but still it is believed that more information than when they crossed over the country is now obtainable, and it is not at all improbable that Colonel Loring, who has recently returned to Santa ¥6 by a new route, and has reported his trip as successful, may be enabled to give important information in tbe matter." I would, therefore, respectfully report, as a project of reconnaissance for the present year, to be commenced as soon as the season will permit, an exploration hence to Carsou Valley, there to con- nect properly with a known route; a return exploration thence to tbis post for a further improvement of the route ; the party to be here refitted and to explore a new route hence to Fort Leavenworth by way of the sources of the Arkansas and Bent's Fort ; the report aud maps to be made up in Washington. I would require an assistant, which might be Lieutenant Putnam, Topogr.apbical Engineers, as he is junior to Lieut. J. L. K. Smith, and in order to the facilitation of the survey, and tbe insurance of its success, an escort such as the commanding general might deem advisable. I respectfully submit this project to the consideration of tbe commaudiug general, in order, if it is approved, it m.iy be referred, through the Bureau of the Topographical Engineers, to the Hon. Secretary of War for his sanction. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. II. S1MP.SON, Captain Corjyi of Topographical Engineers. Bvt. Maj. Frrz John Porter, Assistant Adjutant-General. *At the time of writing the above it was believed that Colonel Loriog had returned to Santa F6 by a new rente, but I find on looking at the map of bia route, since received, that he took mainly Captain Gunnison's route of 1853. 0 B U 42 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT" BASIN OF tJTAn. TIio projoct Avas ai)i)ro\t'(l \i\ Lleiieral Jolinstdii and lut't with the saiiftion of the Secretar>' of Wav, as foHoAvs : lUltE.VU OF TorOGRAl'IlICAL EnOIXEEUS, TTashhiglon, February 17, IHK). Sir : Your letter of lUh ultiiiio, inclnsiiii; a inojrct of cxiiloialiou for the," present year, approved by the coraniaiid- ing general of tlio department, having lieeii snliiiiittid to the lion. Seevctary of War, has been returned witli tbo fol- low ing indorsement : "WaI! Dki-ahtment, rvhruary 10,1859. "Approved. " J. B. Floyd, " Secretary of ff'ar." .Kespcctfiilly, sir, yonr obedii'nt servant, I. C. WOODIUIFI', Ciiplain Topoyrapliiciil Enyiiicerx, Assistant to Bureau, in Charge. Capt. J. II. SiMPSOX, Corps Topographical Engineers, Ciiiiip Floyil, Utah Territory. In accordance with the forcg'oing- anthority, the folh)wing orders were issued from the head([uarters of the Department of Utah: IlEAnQUARTKES DEPARTMENT OF UTAH, Camp Floyd, Utah Territory, Jpril 26, 1859. Sii! : Under authority from the Secretary of War, bearing date December 18, 1853, and February IC, 1859, Brigadier- (ieneral Johnston directs you to renew, as soon as the season will permit, tko exploration commenced under his instruc- tions of 15tli October ultimo, and which was brought to a close by the rapid approach of winter ; and also to arrange for an examination of the country hence to the Arkansas, in accordance with your project of January 6, 18.'J9. The general directs me to address you as follows, as a recapltnlation of the duties assigned to you : First. To explore south of the Great Desert, in order to ascertain the practicability and economy of locating and working, for military purposes and for general traveling, a wagon-road hence to Carson Valley, and there to connect with a known route across the Sierra Nevada; returning, to explore for an improvement in that route, or, should that not be feasible, for an iminovemeut in the new route from the Humboldt to this post. Second. To examine for a new route hence to Fort Leavenworth by the way of the sources of the Aikansas and Bent's Fort. In connection with obtaining geological and botanical information of the country, your attention is specially called to determining the quality and extent of the grass, building-materials, and fuel at positions suitable for the loca- tion of a military post, it being understood by suitable positions those in or near the Indian country, having, in addi- tion to easy access to and control over the avenues of communication, the three essentials, fuel, water, and grass. It is desirable, from its military importance, to procure information of the number and size of the Indian tribes through which you will pass, the extent of the country of each, their mode of living, carrying on war, how armed, &c On your return to this camp, while waiting the refitting of your party, you will, as connected with your second expedition, make an examination to the sources of White River, (western branch of Green Kiver,) passing up both the Tinipanogos and Spanish Forks. Whichever route. Colonel Loring's trail through San Pete Valley or t ne of the above, indicates most favorably for making a short and feasible ro.ad, that one will be taken to White Kiver, whence Colonel Loring's trail will be fo). lowed and improved to and up Grand River, and thence through the Cochatojic I'ass to Fort Garland, Sangrede Christo Pass, down the Huerfano, to the Arkansas, &c., to Fort Leavenworth. Should you lind it advisable to examine from the Cochatope Pass or its vicinity direct to the Arkansas, you aro authorized to do so ; but if a route in that direction be not economically practicable, you will return and renew tho examination of the route above indicated. From Fort Leavenworth, with the assistants necessary to make up your work, you will repair to Washington and report to the Adjutant-General. To enable you to perform these duties, yon will take with you all your party, civil and military, and be furnished with an escort on your first exiiedition of one officer and twenty men (ten mounted) and a guide and interpreter. A new escort will be provided on your rctuun to this camp. The commtiuding general wishes a report of your progress and success from time to time^ as occasion may offer. Should there be any change in your instructions, they will be found at Genoa or on your return to this camp. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, F. J. Porter, Assistant Adjutant-General. To Capt. James H. Simpson, Topographical Engineers, Camp Floyd, Utah Territory. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 43 IlEADQUAItTEHS DErARTMENT OK UtAII, Cam]) Floyd, i'lah Tcrrilory, Apiil 25, 1859. Special Ohdeks, No. 31. An escort of ono oflicor .iiid twenty men (ten moiuito, lt'5'.». Agreeably to orders emanating from this department of April 25 and 20, the topographical engineer party under the command of the undersigned will leave the post early on the morning of the 2d proximo, for the purpose of cxploriu" a now route to California. To Lieut. J. L. K. Smith, topographical engineers, is assigned the duty of taking sextant observations for latitude and time or longitude. These observations will be made at every camp, and those on the sun will bo preferred. E(iual altitudes of the sun every twenty-four hours will be made, either when practicable on the same day, or, which will generally be the case, in the afternoon of one day and, when the sun is at corresponding altitudes, the next morning. Observations on east and west stars will bo made when, on account of unfavorable weather, the sun cannot be observed." To Lieut. H. S. Putnam, topographical engineers, is assigned the duty of making the proper m.agnetic observations for dip, intensity, and declination of the needle. In addition totho.se for declination with the magnetometer, which will be taken at least within every fifty miles, ho will also observe on Polaris for the same purpose, the epoch bein"- when it is at either of its culminations or greatest eastern or western elongation, wheu the reading of the needle of the theodolite or compass will be noted. To Lieutenant Putnam is also assigned the duty of observing with the astronomical transit, at the proper epochs, the moon and moou-eulminating stars for longitude. Observations for lunar distances, and altitudes will be also observed for the same purpose, the three sextants being used at the same time by as many observers. To Lieutenant Putnam is further assigned the duty of surveying the route by noting, in a proper manner, the bear- ings and distances of the various detlectious of the route and of the topogr.aphical features of the country within the limits of vision. These notes will be plotted every evening, and thus our exiict position from day to day shown. Lieutenant Putnam will further keep up an itinerary of the route, according to the prescribed form with which he will be furnished, the distance to be measured by two odometers to provide against error. To Mr. Henry Engelmann, geologist, is assigned the duty of ob.serviug tile country passed through geolngically and bot.anically, specimens in each department being collected for this purpose and proiierly labeled and packed away. Mr. Engelmann will also take charge of the barometrical and meteorological observations, the object being to obtain an exact profile of the route as well as a knowledge of the climate and its relation to the physical aspects of the region traversed. Messrs. Edward Jagiello and William Leo will assist the above-named officers in the required observations in the mode which may be found most expedient. * These last observations were most resorted to on the expedition on account of being generally practicable. 44 EXPLORATIONS AGKOSS THE GKEAT BASIN OF UTAU. To Mr. Charles McCarthy is assigued the duty of laxidormist and collector of specimens illustrative of the aninuil and insect world. lu •rder to this, he will be assiduous in the collection of the necessary proportion of specimens, and in their being properly prepared for preservation and transportation. To Mr. H. V. A. Von Beekh is assigned the duty of sketching the country in a manner to illustrate its common as well as peculiar characteristics. The escort, under the orders from the Department of Utah, will he commanded by Licnt. Alexander Murry, Tenth Infantry, who has also been charged with the duties of quartermaster and commissary, and directed to see that the expedition is supplied with everything in these departments, according to the reiiuisitions which have been approved by the proper authority. Lieut. J. L. K. Smith will act as ordnance officer, and will obtain from the Orduance Dei)artin6nt the necessary arms and ammunition for the party. The expedition wo are about to enter upon being an important one, it is expected by the officer comm:indiug that each and every officer, soldier, and citizen engaged in it will do his utmost to secure its success. J. H. SliVl'SON, Captain Cjrps Tupoiji-aphival Engineers, in Charge of ExpeiHion. Camp Floyd, May 2, 1859.— Longitude, 112° 8' 7"; latituflo, 40° 13' IS"; eleva- tion above the sea, 4,860 feet; magnetic variation, 17° 10' 8" K. The topographical party under my command left this post at a quarter of 8 a. m , to explore the country intervening this locality and Carson River, at the east foot of the Sierra Nevada, for a new and direct route to California. My orders of the 29tli ultimo show who my assistants are, and their several voca- tions. The employes of the party number nine persons, and make the total number (»f the topographical party, inclusive of assistants, one guide, two Mexican packers, iiiid two Indians of the Ute tribe, twenty-two. The escort is composed agreeably to jjost orders No. 110, above given, and aggregates, rank and file, twenty-two persons. We have with us twelve six-mule quartermaster-wagons, for the transjjortation of sujiplies, three more loaded with forage, for the first five or six days, and one six-mule and one four-mule ambulance, for the conveyance of the instruments. We are rationed for three months, six commissary beeves being driven on foot. "^I'he wagons were all j^arked yesterday for inspection preparatory to being turned over to us by the depot quartermaster, and what parts Avere found defecti\e supplied by others. IMie number of teamsters is fourteen, exclusive of the three belonging to the forage- wagons, which are to return to Camp Floyd, and Mr. Henry Sailing is the wagon- master. We have also with us one wheelwright, one blacksmith, and four herders, making the aggregate number of the topographical party, escort, and quartermaster's employds sixty-four. Included in the number is a commissary sergeant (Miller, Tenth Infantry), and Private Thatcher, Tenth Infantry, hospitnl steward ;tnd acting bugler. The topographical party and teamsters are provided each with a navy-revolvei-. Of course, the military escort has its proper arms. Our instruments are, three sextants, three artificial horizons, one astronomical transit, four chronometers (one large box and three pocket), two cistern-barometers, one magnetic dip-circle, or inclinometer, and one magnetometer. This last is the instrument which Dr. Kane had with him on his polar expedition, and has all the dingy, worn appearance which such an expedition would naturally cause. We have also a number of Schmalkalder, or prismatic, and pocket compasses. The route we take is that I explored last fall on my return from Short Cut Pass, JIEPOUT AND JOUllNAL. 45 of Colonel Thoniiis' ninge, a report and map of •which have already l)een rendered and, by order of Congress, pnblished.* Our course lay slightly south of west, up a scarcely perceptible ascent, out from Cedar Valley to Camp Floyd Pass (altitude, 5,234 feet above the sea), 3 miles distant from Camp Floyd ; through this broad chanipaigu pass 3 miles, and thence, nearly southwest, 12.2 miles, to Meadow Creek, in Rush Valley, where we encamped. Journey, 18.2 miles. Road good. Finding that the California mail party, after threading Cauip Floyd Pass, had missed my route, of last fall, and had unnecessarily made too great a detour to the northward, I struck directly across to Meadow Creek with the wagons, and thus marked out a short cut which would shorten the road a mile or two. For the conformation of Cedar Valley, in which Camp Floyd is situated, and of Hush Valley, in which we are encamped, and of the mountains limiting them, see map herewith. These valleys are slightly concave in cross-section east and west, Cedar Valley averaging a breadth of 8 miles and Rush Valley a breadth of 13 miles, and lie longi- tudinally nortli and south, Cedar Valley, for a length of 30 miles, and Rush Valley, for a length of 40 miles, and give evidence, from the appearances of water-lines along the base of the mountains, that they were once submerged, and doubtless a part of the Great Salt Lake. The whole of Cedar Valley has been reserved by the General Government for military purposes, and at the northern portion of Rush Valley, is the small military reserve laid out by directions of Lievitenant-Colonel Steptoe in 1855. The soil is argillo-calcareo-arenaceous in character, has a sort of buif coloi', and quickly absorljs the rains, which seldom fall in this region except in the fall, winter, and gpring. The vegetable growth is principally the artemisla tridenfata, or wild sage, with the sarcohatus vermicular is, or greasewood, and the hjmsyris, or rabbit- bush, intermingled. These valleys are very sparsely watered, and though the soil in itself has all the elements of fertility, yet for want of the necessary moisture, for agricultural purposes, except in a small niinil)er of areas containing but a iow acres Avhicli can Ije irrigated, it is utterly worthless. The cultivable portions in Cedar Valley are at Cedar Fort, a ]\rormon settlement, 5 miles north of Camp Floyd, and at Camp yio}^!, and in Rush Valley, at Johnson's Settlement, on Clover Creek, in the northwestern portion of the valley, where there are about 200 acres of good farming land. Not a tree is to be S3en anywhere in either of the valleys, though scrub-cedar and pine crown the mount- ain-heights. There is quite an abundance of good grass upon the bases of the mount- ains and in the cations, and in some places it is to be found in patches in the valley. It is also found along Meadow Creek, in Rush Valley, and along other short streams in the southwestern portion of this valley. Indeed, both in the southwestern and northern portions of tliis valley there is a great deal of excellent grass, and the Gov- ernment herds of beef-cattle and mules were wintered at these 2)oints during the past winter. The pasture on Meadow Creek is slightly alkaline. The mountains limiting the valley are at points quite formidable, the Oquirrh range dividing Cedar and Rush Valleys discovering along its ci'est in midsummer ' Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 40, 35tb Cong., 2J scss. 46 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TOE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. shreds of snow wliich the sun has not been able to dissipate. The highest point of this range, which I call Camp Floyd Peak, on account of its proximity to the post of that name, is 4,214 feet above the camp, or 9,074 feet above the sea. The formation of these mountains is made up of highly siliceous altered limestones, slate-rock, and altered sandstones (quartzite) of the Cai'boniferous period, the slaty, calcareous rocks predominating. The roads in tliese valleys are good and lead out in xarious directions into the ad- joining valleys. The weather has been ])leasantly warm. For exact state of it to-day and succeed- ing days, see meteorological diary, Appendix U. May 3, Camp No. 1, on Meadow Creek. — Elevatiow above the sea, 5,205 feet. The bugle sounded reveille at daybi'eak. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 39°. Moved at 6 a. m. Follow up Meadow Creek a mile, and then cross just above old adobe corral. Cross- ing only tolerable. This stream, which is of gentle current, is so narrow that you can jump across it, and is but a few inches in depth. It runs northerly about ten miles and sinks. About a half mile above the crossing the mail company has a station, at present consisting of a Sibley tent, and a cedar-picket corral for stock is being made. From this station our course lay nearly southwest, seven miles to east, foot of General Johnston's Pass, which I discovered last fall, and which I called after the general com- manding the Department of Utah. The mountain range, Avhicli is quite a formidable one, I call after Prof Arnold Guyot, LL. D., the distinguished physicist and professor in the college of New Jersey. In about a mile more, by a good grade, you reach the top of the i)ass (altitiule above the sea, 6,237 feet), and thence, in three-quarters of a mile, by a steep descent, which, for a portion of the way, teams going east would have to double uji, you attain to a spot where is a patch of grass, and where we encamped. There is a small spring near lis, on the north side of the pass, Avhich, however, our animals soon drank dry, and which doubtless is dry during the summer. Road to-day good. Journey, 9.9 miles, reaching camp a little after meridian. The Ute Indian, brother of Arrapene, chief of the tribe, who accompanied us as guide, reporting himself too sick to go on Avith the party, I permitted him to return to Camp Floyd. 8aw two antelope, a couple of sage hens, and McCarthy shot a curlew, from -which he took, perfectly formed in the shell, an Qg^ as large as a chicken's. The California mail-stage passed us on its Avay to Camp Floyd. Cho-kup, chief of the Ruby Valley band of Sho-sho-nees, was a jiassenger, on his way to see the Ijulian agent. He is the best-looking Indian I have seen in the Territory. Near our camp,' Russell, Major & Waddel have a herd-camp. The herds find excellent and abundant pasture on both sides of this range of mountains, a few miles to the south, in Ru.sh and also in Porter Valley. Water also abundant at these points. The summits of the highest mountains have still their wintry garb of snow upon them. Last winter was an unusually severe one, and the consequence is that the spring has been* backward, and the grass is yet quite short and tender; though on the mountain slopes and in the gorges it is sufficiently advanced for grazing. May 4, Camp No. 2, fJiree-qimrters of a mile hclow summit of General Johnston's Pass. — REPORT AND ,IOUI^NAL. 47 Elevation above the sea, 5,810 feet. This moniiiiy at (hiylight we found that a driving- snow-storm had set in from the west and about six inches of snow had fallen. The Sibley tent occupied by some of the assistants had become prostrated, under the com- bined effects of the snow and wind, and when I saw it its occupants were still under it. Lieutenant Murry reports the spi'ing- full again this morning. Thermometer at 5J a. m., 32 r. Moved camp at 10 minutes after 7 a. m., our course being- westwardly down General Johnston's Pass into Skull Valley (altitude, 4,850 feet above the sea), and thence southwestwardly, in a somewhat tortuous direction to avoid a low mountain, to a sjiring- which I discovered last fall, and which I called, in my last report. Pleasant Spring, but which now, I find, goes by the name of Simpson's Spring. This spring is on the base and north side of some mountains, which I call after Captain Stephen Champlin, of the United States Navy. Journey, 16.2 miles. Road good. We are now on the southern side of the Great Salt Lake Desert, which extends, with an occasional interruption from small isolated mountains, all the way to the most northern portion of the Great Salt Lake, a distance of over 100 miles. The whole scene is that of a somber, dreary waste, where neither man nor beast can live for want of the necessary food and water, and over which a bird is scarcely ever seen to fl}'. The surface is singularly flat, a very slight downward g-rade, however, being observ- able northwardly toward the lake. The soil is argillo-calcareo-arenaceous, and pro- duces only a small growth of aiicmisia and greasewood. As you approach Great Salt Lake the ground becomes more level and low, and the valley presents the appearance of a mud-flat, which, in some localities, is covered with an incrustation of common salt, and over which it would be hazardous for wagons to cross. Captain Stansbury, in his report of IMarch 10, 1852, very justly remarks that "these plains are but little elevated above the present level of tlie lake, and have, beyond question, at one time, formed part of it." Indeed, the water lines indicate, as in Rush and Cedar Valleys, that the whole desert has at one time been submerged, and constituted a part of the Great Salt Lake. Captain Beckwith, in his report of November 25, 1854, speaking of the portion of the desert over which ho passed, to the northward of our rout«, says: "Five miles from Granite Mountain we left the dry soil on Avliich we terminated our march last evening, and passing over a narrow ridge of sand, entered upon a desert ot stiff' mud, as level as a sheet of water, which we found great difticulty in crossing with our wagons, for 17.66 miles. For this entire distance there i.s not a sign of green vegetation, and only here and there a dry stalk of aiicmisia, where it has been transported by the wind. The lightest sheet of effloresced salt covered the moist earth at intervals, and the track of a single antelope or wolf could be seen crossing the desert for miles, by the line of dark mud thrown up by its feet, so level, soft, and white was the plain; and the whole scene was as ban-en, desolate, and dreary as can be imagined." While such was the character of the country where Captain Beckwith passed, I would remark that at the southern portion of the desert, where our route lay, the plain or valley is suffi- ciently high to be dry and affords a good road. The Champlin Mountains, at the foot of which we are encamped, are composed 48 EXrLOKATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. of porpliyritic and other ig'iieoiis rocks, wliicli have tilted up and much ahered the stratilied rocks around them, to wit, sand-rocks, siHceous hmestones, and being quite high, and giving rise to springs and short running streams on their west, south, and east sides, and covered as tliey are with cedar and, in many phxces, grass, they foiined a very valuable topographical feature in the line of travel over the Great Desert, as will be seen more fully in my notes of my i-eturn i-oute. The other mountains to the north and southwest ai-e to be seen looking dark and dreary, and indicate by their scorched, vitreous, and, in some portions, ashy hue, that they have been subjected to igneous action. Not a tree is to be seen upon them, nor a patch of green vegetation of any kind. They are fit monuments of tlie desolation which reigns over the whole desert. • The spring where we are encamped furnishes but a scant supply of water, which, however, the mail company, which has a station here, has collected in a reservoir formed by a dam across the ravine. The accommodations of the company are at present a Sililcy tent, set upon a circular stone wall. There is an abundiuice of grass in the vicinity and cedar on the heights, but not conveniently near. We found our giiide, Mr. Reese, liere, agreeably to appointment. I had sent him in advance of the party si.x days to examine the country to the south and south- west of this spring to see if the Short Cut Pass, which is objectional»le on account of its high grade, 20 miles to the southwest, through (Jolonel Thomas's range, could iiot be avoided. He informed me that he has been fully 35 miles in the direction stated, and is convinced that for GO miles there can no water be found. He has been up a caiTon ten miles to the south of Simpson's Sjiring, in Champlin Mountains, where there is plenty of grass and Avater ; biit to go to this water now would be out of our way. It is possible, however, that on our return from Carson Valley it would be expedient for us to go directly from Short Cut Pass to the canon referred to, and, by thus being able to get into Porter Valley, get into Rush Valley toward its south extremity, and thus reach Camp Floyd by a route which might funiish more water nnd grass than by our present route. Skull Valley, which is a part of the Great Salt Lake Desert, and which we have crossed to-day, Mr. George W. Bean, my guide over this route last fall, says, derives its name from the number of skulls which have been found in it, and Avliich have arisen from the custom of the Goshoot Indians burying their dead in s})rings, Avhich they sink with stones or keep down with sticks. He says he has actually seen the Ute Indians bmy their dead in this way near the town of Provo, where he resides. 3f(ii/ 5, CdDij) No. i), Simpson's Sprin/j. — Longitude, 112° 47' 18"; latitude, 40'' 1' 55"; magnetic variation, 15° 30' E.; altitude al)ove the sea, 4,.S50 feci. Morning bright. Thermometer, at 5 a. m., 40'^. Guide left us at half })ast 5, with two men and one pack-mule, to explore a pass al)Out five miles to the northward of " Short Cut Pas-s," m the range beyond us, and thus, if j)0ssible, cut off a bend of the mail-route beyond " Short Cut." He is to join us to-morrow at the next watering-place. My instructions contemplated my keeping south of my old route from Simpson's Sjiring; but the guide finding no water in that direction, I am forced on my old route. I may be able, however, on my return, to keep more south. IJErORT AND JOURlSrAL. 49 My \)iivty nioNciI at quarter to six. Course nearly soutlnvest, aeross desert (alti- tude above the sea, 4,;)70 feet), thinly covered with short artcm'tsia, or sage, to " Short Cut Pass," altitude above the sea, h,'Ml feet, in a mountain range, which I call C'olonel Thomas' range, after Lieut. Col. Lorenzo Thomas, assistant adjutant-general of the Ami}'. Through this i)ass Chorpenning & Company, the mail-contractors, have made a road, but it is so crooked and steep as to scarcely permit our wagons to get up it. In other respects, road to-day good. Encani]) L3 miles west of summit of pass, where there is little or no grass, and no water. Journe}", 23.2 miles. At foot of ])ass we find a couple of men of the mail-party living in a tent. They are employed in improving the road through the pass, and digging for water. They have been -row at random. They live on rats, lizards, snakes, insects, g'rass-seed, and roots and their largest yame is the ral)l)it, it being- seldom that tliey kill an antelope. I learn from Air. Faust, the mail-agent at this jjoint, that there are only about 20U Go-shoots all told of every age. They use, generally, the bow and arrow, there being only one gnn to about 25 n\en. He represents them as of a thievish disposition, the mail company liaving lost by them about 12 head of cattle and as many nudes. They steal them for food. The farm the Government has opened for them is on Deep Creek, 25 miles west of 3iorth from this station. The Indian agent is Mr. Jarvis. Mr. Faust represents the Aalley of Deej) Creek (by Beckwith called Fisli Creek, by others I-van-pah), as quite large and fertile. The creek is narrow and so deep (from G to 12 feet) as to drown animals, and 1,500 acres of good land can be ])rolitably imgated by it. Captain IJeckwith, in speaking of this valley, says: "The valley is here several miles wide, and the stream lined with grass, which is not all, however, of superior quality. Many of the small settlements of Utah are not so well supplied with the requisites for suc- cessful cultivation as those found on tliis stream." Mr. Faust also represents that there is a large quantity of fine timber (pine, fir, and cedar) in the vicinity, and, doubtless, building-stone. Just at sunset I walked out with Mr. Faust to see some of these Go-shoots at home. We found, about 1.5 miles from camp, one of their habitations, which con- sisted only of some cedar branches disposed around in the peiiphery of a circle, about 10 feet in diameter, and in such a manner as to break otf, to tlie height of about 4 feet, wind from the pi-evailing direction. In this inclosure were a number of men, women, and children. Kubbit-skins were the clothing generally, the poor infant at the breast liaving nothing on it. In the center was a camp-kettle suspended to a three- legged crotch or tripod. In it they were boiling the meat we had given them. An old woman superintended the cooking-, and at the same time was engaged in dressing an antelope-skin. When the soup was done, the fingers of each of the inmates were stuck into the only dish, and sucked. While this was going- on, an Indian came in from his day's hunt. His largest game was the rat, of which he had a number stuck around under the string of his waist. These were soon put by the old woman on the fire, and the hair scorched; this done, she rubbed oS the cnsped hair with a pine-knot, and then, thrusting her finger into the paunch of the animal, pulled out the entrails. From these, pressing ovit the offal, she tln-ew the animal, entrails and all, into the pot. The rats are caught by a dead-fall made of a heavy stone, and supported by a kiiul of figure 4, made as it ordinarily is for a trap, except that, instead of a piece of wood, a string is iised, tied, and provided with a short button, wliich, being brought around the upright, is delicately held in position by a spear of di-ied grass or delicate piece of w^ood, which, pressing against the button, rests at the other end against the g-round -or stone. Traps like these are placed over the holes of the rats, and they, CQming in contact with the long or lower piece of the figure 4, bring the stone upon them. They are also speared in their holes by a stick turned up slightly at the end 54 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. and pointed, and with another, of a spade-form at the end, the earth is dug' away until the animal is reached and jiossessed. The Go-shoots, as well as the Diggers, constantly carry about with them these instruments of death, which, with the bow and arrow and net, constitute their chief means for the capture of game. Hanging on the brush about their "kant," as they call their habitations, I noticed one of these nets. It was well made, of excellent twine fabricated of a species of flax which groAvs in certain localities in this region, is 3 feet wide, and of a very considerable length. With this kind of net they catch the rabbit. A fence or barrier, made of the wild sage-bush plucked up by the roots, or cedar branches, is laid across the paths of the rabbits, and on this fence the net is hung verti- cillv, and in its meshes the rabbit is caught. The fear of capture causes these people to live generally some distance from the water, which they bring to their "kant" in a sort of jug made of willow tightly platted together and smeared with fii--gum. They also make their boAvls and seed and root baskets in the same wa}'— a s^^ecies of manufacture quite common among all the Indian tribes, and Avhich, in 1849, I saw in the greatest perfection among the Navajos and Pueblo Indians of New Mexico.* I noticed a species of the food the}- eat, and which is made from seeds and roots which they get in the bottoms. I tasted it, but it looking precisely like a cake of cattle-ordure, and having anything but an agreeable taste, I soon disgorged it. The Go-shoots, according to Mr. Bean, my guide of last fall, Avho has lived in this country for the last ten vears, and professes to be well acquainted with the various tribes inhabiting the Territory, are an ofl'shoot from the Ute Indians, and left their tribe about two generations ago, with their leader or chief, Goship, a disatiected leader. Their proper name, therefore, is probably Goship-Utes, which has become con- tracted into Go-shoots. Their language is a sort of gibberish, made up of the Ute and Sho-sho-nee dialects. It is said they are little esteemed by the original tribe, though I find occasionally a Ute Indian among them married to one of their people. They have until recently recognized no chief. Now, at the instigation of the Govern- ment, they have elected one, but as yet do not know how to respect him. It was amusing to see how the women sl}ly tucked under their rabbit-skins the hickory (checked) .shirts we gave them, their whole demeanor representing that they are a suspicious, secretive set. We foiind the guide, Mr. Reese, at our present camping-ground. He found the water at the places represented by the Indian he took with him from Camp No. 5, but farther south than he had gone. Paid the Indian in tobacco and a couple of hickory shirts. Maij 10, Camp Xo. 8, Plcosaiif Valleif. — Altitude above tlie sea, 6,150 feet. Ice f )rmed in the bucket last night. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 33°. 75. The guide, with Ute Indian Pete and two other men, left us this morning to continue an examination of the country to the south of and parallel to our route. They are to continue on, if possible, in that direction, and join us in Ruby Valley. Pleasant Valley, which is very narrow, contains grass all along it, but no water * See my report of Nav.ijo expedition, Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 64, Slst Cong., let sesa., p. lltj. REPORT AND JOURNAIi. 5 above the spriiifj wliere wo cmjiniped last night, exc'e})t occasionally. The mountains are covered with cedars, and also contain ])ine and fir large enough for building pur- poses, and stone, lielow the spring there is a very limited amount of cultivable land, which might be irrigated. This is the first cultivable land we have seen since we left Camp Floyd. The inii\ersal scene has been an arid, light argillo-arenaceous soil in the valleys, and the aiicmishi more or less everywhere. From Pleasant Valley to Camp No. 8, the road, Avhich has a general direction north of west, traverses in 8.5 miles two or three steep but short hills, which, however, did not require the teams to be doubled, to the west siunmit of the Tots-arrli range (altitude above the sea, 7,150 feet), and thence 4 miles to camj). The mail company have done on this portion of the route some little woi-k, but not enough to make the road what it should be. The road as made does not follow the direct pack-route, but makes quite a detour to the right or north. The mail-man, who has piloted us from the last camp, says a I'oad, however, could be made by the pack-mule route, which would save several miles. The diffi- culty is a very steep declivity into Antelope Valley. The formation of the Tots-aiTli range, in which Pleasant Valley lies, is made up of slaty and calcareous rocks, mostly highly altered, and on the south side of the valley are seen granite rocks and quartzite. On the west side, near our present camp (No. 9), impure limestones and sandstones aljound, pointing to the Carboniferous forma- tion. The soil of the vallej's correspond. The Go-shoots that came to our camp in Pleasant Valley have followed us to our present camp, and have been regaling themselves Avith the entrails and refuse of a beef we have killed. Two of our party Aveut in advance to shoot antelope in Antelope Valley, in which we are informed they are frequently visible ; they have returned, however, unsuccess- ful. Journey, to-day, 12.5 miles. In this country, where grass is scattered as it is in the case of the bunch-grass, or scarce, it is necessary, in order to keep up the condition of the animals, to herd them. For this purpose we have four herders, three of whom are Mexicans and one an American. One of these driA'es the herd during the day, the others sleeping in the wagons, and at night the last mentioned take care of them. We have, therefox'e, brought Avith us only a few lariats for the horses, Avliich, however, are seldom used except as guys to our Avagons along side-hills, and to close up the gaps between the wagons Avlien con-ailed for stock-catching in the morning. At Camp Floyd and other places in Utah, there are a number of Mexicans Avho prove A-aluable as herders. Besides being capital for looking up stray animals, they are generally expert in throAV- ing the lasso. May 11, Cam}} No. 9, east slope of Antelojye Valley . — Altitude above the sea, 6,G58 feet. Ice formed again last night. Thermometer, at 4^ o'clock this morning, 22°. Atmosphere sharp but clear. Jloved at 25 minutes of 6. Course, south of Avestacross Antelope and Shell Valleys. Just after leaving camp Ave have a fine distant vicAV of the mountains hemming in the Antelope Valley at the Avest and north. After getting across the valley you can see to the east of south, glittering Avitli snoAv, the high peak of the Go-shoot, or Tots-arrh range (Union Peak), some 60 miles off. This valley 56 EXrLOEATIONS ACROSS TOE GREAT BASIX OF UTAH. runs north and south, i.s flatly and smoothly concave, and ahout 12 miles wide; is bounded on the east by the Tots-arrli or Go-shoot range; on the west by the Un-go- we-ah, or Pine Timber range, which are next to the Tots-arrh iu height; at the north distantly it appears to be henuned in by mountains, and at the south is uninterrupted in view. Altitude above the sea, 5,G90 feet. The soil is a sandy gravel on the benches, in the bottom argillaceous and covered with short sage. In the vicinity where we cross it there are no indications of water or grass, but some 50 miles to the south of us, to the north of our return-route, there is water and an abundance of grass. After crossing Antelope Valley, )"ou ascend a rather low range of moinitains, composed of slaty, stratified rocks, by a tolerable grade, and get into a shallow valh^y, called Shell Valley on account of its being covered with shale. Crossing this you descend over a forma- tion of dioritic rocks, in 2 miles, by a good grade, into Spring Valley, where there is an extensive bottom of alkaline grass and of spring water, and where wa encamp early in the afternoon. Joixrue}-, 19 miles; road generally good. This is a narrow vallev, running north and south, and lies between the Uu-go-we-ah range on the west and a low minor range on the east. It is called Sjtring Valley, from the number of springs which make a chain of small shallow lakes or ponds in the direction of its length. The grass in it is abundant, but coarse and alkaline. Better grass can be found iu the ravines and on the bench on the west side of the valley. The alkaline nature of the soil makes it unfit for cultivation. The formation of the valley, which is of a highly metamorphosed character, is composed, iirobably, of semi- fused stratified rocks. Found some Eoot-Diggers-here, one a very old woman, bent over A\ith infirmities, very short in stature, and the most lean, wretched-looking object it has ever been my lot to see. Had her likeness taken. These Indians appear worse in condition than the meanest of the animal creation. Their gamientis only a rabbit-skin cape, like those already described, andthechikh'tn go naked. It is refreshing, however, in all their degradation, to see the mother studi- ously careful of her little one, by causing it to nestle under her rabbit-skin mantle. At first they were afraid to come near us, but bread having been given to the old woman, by signs and words she made the others iu the distance iniderstand that they had nothing to fear, and prompted them to accompany her to camp to get something to eat. Notwithstanding the old woman looked as if she was famished, it Avas very touching to see her deal out her bread, fii-st to the little child at her side, and then, only after the others had come up and got their share, to take the small balance for herself At camp, the feast we gave them made them fairly laugh for joy. Near our camp I visited one of their dens or wick-e-ups. Like that already de- scribed, it was an iuclosure, 3 feet high, of cedar-bru.sh. The offal around, and in a few feet of it, was so ofi'ensive as to cause my stomach to retch, and cause a hasty retreat. Mr. Bean told me the truth when he spoke of the inunense piles of /(PCcs voided by these Indians, about their habitations, caused doubtless by the vegetable, innutritions character of the food. These Digger Indians certaiid)- demand the care and Ijeneficence of the Ciovern- ment, and it is a satisfaction to know that an Indian agent has been sent among them to REPORT AND JOURNAL. 57 teach them the arts of civihzcd hfe. Sure I am, if the discontented among our people coukl only see these poor creatures in their want and Avretchedness, tliey could not repine at their lot. I noticed the women carrying on their backs monstrous willow baskets filled with a soiiof carrot root, which they dig in the marsh, and the cacti, both of which they use for food. The statui-e of these Indians, both male and female, is under size. After dark a number came in; but it is a rule with its not to permit them to remain all night in camp, and they were told that though they could not remain with us, they could come in the morning. Their joyous conversation shows that they believe they have got among good friends. May 12, Camp No. 10, Spyhnj Valleij. — Altitude above the sea G,133 feet. Ther- mometer at 4.J o'clock this morning, 22°.. Had quite a cold night; fires still desirable in the morning ; water in the valley frozen over. Ever since we left Camp Floyd snow has covered the higlnnountains. The grass in the valley is yet but a few inches long. On the sides of the mountain, however, where it is to be found, it is sufficiently long for gi'azing. This valley, doubtless on account of its altitude, is a cold one. In consequence of some of our mules straying away, which, however, were found, we did not get oft" till 20 minutes after 6. Our Go-shoot friends were in camp again just before starting, and were a little impudent, so much so as to cause me to give some significant evidences of displeasm-e. Our course lay west of north for about 3 miles, when we turned up a ravine south of west, along a rapid mountain-stream (Spring- Creek), which we followed for 3.5 miles, when we left it, and continuing up a branch ravine, in 2 miles, by a good wagon-road grade, attained the summit of the Un-go-we- ah range (7,530 feet above the sea), Avhence coiild' be seen lying immediately to the west of us Steptoe Valley. Descending the west slope of the mountain, which is some- what steep, about 2 miles more, along a pure, mountain-gushing stream, which I call after Lieutenant Mannaduke, of the Seventh Infantry, brought us to the mail-station on the east side of Steptoe Valley, in the vicinity of which Ave encamped after a jour- ney of 11.1 miles among good grass, water, and fuel. The road crossed the stream, which I call Spring Creek, on the east slope of the range, several times. These crossings, which are short, boggy pitches, the mail com- pany has not properly fixed, and the consequence was we were detained two hoiu's by the breaking up of a tongue. This stream is 4 feet wide and 1 foot deep, and there is an abundance of grass in the ravine all along, from about 1.5 miles above its entrance into Spring Valley. It therefore furnishes a better camjiing place than Spring Val- ley. Gooseberry bushes grow along the creek, and cedars abound on the side-hill, and cedars, pines, and what the Mormons call mountain maliogamj in the 2:)ass. This tree (the Cercocarpns ledifuUus) grows generally at the summit of the passes. It is somewhat scrubby in appearance, ramif3'ing in several branches from the ground, and in form resembles the apple-tree. Its greatest height is about 20 feet, and the aggre- gate breadth of its branches 20 feet. Its wood is very hard, and is used for cogs, join-- nals, gudgeons, &c. A minute description of it by Dr. Engelmann will be found in Ap- pendix M. In this ravine we met a couple of men belonging to the mail-station Avhere we 8bu 58 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. are encamped, one of them named Lott Huntingdon, who sa}'s he has charge of the mail comj^any's operations from Pleasant Valley to the Ilumljoldt River. They were in search of mules, which they reported as having been run off hy the Indians last niglit. They were sure of it because they had tracked them. Fortunately we had fallen in with the mules, and they had joined our herd. It was also in this ravine where I saw a deserted wick-e-up, in which Mr. Lee found a charred human skull — whether the result of cannibalism, sacrifice, or accident, we do not know. The ravine in which we are encamped is also well grassed, and there are others of the same character in the vicinity. The Un-go-we-ah Moxmtain-range, which we have just crossed, is composed of poqjhyritic rocks and altered stratified rocks (quartzite, slaty rocks, and siliceoiis lime- stones), heaved up to the summit. Called at the mail-station. I find the mail company's road-party, consisting of eight men, have worked the road no fixrther than this camp. From this point onward we will have to open the road ourselves. They report a stream in the bottom of Steptoe Valley, six miles distant, which we will have to cross, and cannot do without bridging. Breadth 25 feet. They have been hauling logs to the spot for the purpose, and have nearly all that will be required. They promise to haul the remainder to-morrow, so as to enable us to build the bridge. Tlie mail accommodations at this station are a shed and tent. May 13, Camj) Ko. 11, east slope of Steptoe Valley. — Altitude above the sea, 6,600 feet. Last evening it commenced blowing very hard, and this morning we have a cold, driving snoAv-storm from the east. Thennometer, at 5.45 a. m., 34°.25. Lieu- tenant Murry and myself left, witli a small party of soldiers and teamsters, to make the bridge in Steptoe Valle}-, refen-ed to yesterday, the balance remaining in camp. By noon the bridge was finished except a few logs, which the mail company promised to haul and put on. Lieutenant Muny desei*ves credit for his energy in this work. It snowed and rained at times during tlie day, till in the afternoon the clouds broke away, and the sun came out bright. The wind was high all day. Mr. Huntingdon has been in this region during the past winter, and says there were six feet of snow in the upper portion of the caiion, in which the mail-station is, and two feet at the station. The mail party also inform us that Mr. Egan, the princi- pal agent of Choi-penning & Company, tried twice to get south from Ruby Valley, toward Genoa, in Carson Valley, but was once defeated by the snow, and once busi- ness in Salt Lake City diverted him. It is from this point, near the southern extremity of Ruby Valley, Hastlng's Pass, where we reach it, that I contemplate stnking off southwestwardly from tlie route we are following, and shall attempt to get tbrough with our wagons to Genoa in that direction. The mail from Camp Floyd passed this afternoon, on mule-back, to California, and the canier reported two stages at Pleasant Valley Station, just through from Salt Lake City. 3fay 14, Camp Ko. 11, east slope of Steptoe Valley. — "Weather still cold. Ther- mometer, at 5 a. m., 28°.25. The animals have been in good grass at this camji, and have recuperated by the day's halt. Moved at 5.30 o'clock. Course westwardly, EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 59 directly across Steptoe Valley to Eg-an Canon. This valley, trending about north and south, is bound by the Un-go-Ave-ah Mountains on the east, and the Montim* Moun- tains on the west, and is open at either end as far as the eye can reach. Its breadtli is about twelve miles, and, like all the Avide valleys Ave have crossed, is flatly concave in cross-sections. At the benches the soil is gravelly. In the bottom it is areno-cal- careo-argillaceous, and on the Avest side of the valley, in Avet Aveather, must bo"- a great deal. Greasewood is the characteristic ; ordinary height, 3 to 4 feet. (See minute description of this shrub by Dr. Engelmann, in Appendix M). Alon'>- tlie axis of tlie valley a stream runs nortliAvardly, Avhich, at the present time, is tAventy-five to fifty feet Avide; bottom miry; depth, in places, three feet; current moderate. It is said to dry up in the summer. Curlew, ducks, and other aquatic birds frequent it. There is a considerable margin of salt grass along it, Avhich would be poisonous to animals, though the Avater does not taste alkaline. This is a poor, arid vallcA-, perfectly useless for cultivation Avhere Ave cross it ; but farther south, Avhere I crossed it on my return, as my report Avill shoAV, there is a great deal of good, available pastural and cultivable soil. Altitude aboA^e the sea, 5,816 feet. Small streams, hoAvever, of iiure Avater com-se down from the mountains and sink generally before reachin"- the middle of the valley; and on the mountain-sides and in the ravines is to be found a "-reat deal of grass. On account of the marshy approach to the bridge we constructed yesterday over this creek, Ave Avere detained three-quarters of an hoiu-. Several of the Avao-ons were taken over by hand. At noon, 6.8 miles from bridge, Ave reached the mouth of Eo-an Canon, doAvn Avhich a fine, rapid stream runs, and on Avhich Ave encamp. Grass on the side of the mountain. Journey 13.3 miles. Road good to the bridge; and from there, a part of the Avay, the soil is light and porous, and cuts up easily. After reach ing camp-ground, I examined, Avith Lieutenant Muny, Egan Canon, Avhicli had been reported as requiring considerable Avork to enable the Avagons to pass, but find little will be necessary. We have had to-day Avith us, from Steptoe Valley, one of the mail company's men, avIio joined us at my request and by direction of Mr. Egan. This afternoon the astronomical transit Avas set up for observations of the transit of the moon and moon-culminating stars. We Avere successful in the evening Avitli our observations. Also observed as usual for time (or longitude) and latitude. Also took four sets of lunar observations for longitude Avith sextants and artificial horizons, tAvo sets being on each side of the moon. Lieutenant Smith observed for doiible altitudes of the stars; Lieutenant I'utnam, for double altitude of tlie moon; and I, for lunar dis- tances, Mr. Lee noting audibly the time. The obserA'ations, being sinuiltaneous, are re- garded as quite satisfactory. I would ask, "Are you all ready f If so, each Avould reply, "Ready!" I Avould then say, "Count!" While Mr. Lee Avas counting. Lieutenant Smith Avould be keeping up the superposition of the reflected and direct imao-e of the star in the artificial horizon ; Lieutenant Putnam, the tangential contact of the reflected and direct image of the bright limb of the moon, also in an artificial hoiizon; and I, the tangency of the star and bright limb of the moon directly. At the j^roper instant, I Avould call out the time, and if the other observei-s would respond, "All right!" to * The meaning of this word I have not lein able to ascertain. 60 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. my query, the angles of time were recorded. "We got tlu-oiigli at midnight. Also, determined the magnetic variation at tliis camp, by observations on Polaris. The survey of the day is plotted after getting into camp, and thus, as we proceed, we have daily a correct view of our position. All of our notes, astronomical and barometerical and itinerary, are also perfected. The foxir clu'onometers are also daily, at the same liour, compared, and a record kept of the daily difference of each with the large box-chronometer. Find longitude of this camp (No. 12) to be 114° 58' 15"; latitude, 39° 51' 4C"; altitude, 5,9.SG feet; magnetic variation, 16° 47' E. The dews in this region are scarcely jierceptible, and my iiannel, I notice, is generally highly charged with electricity. May 15, Camj) No. 12, mouth of Egaii Canon. — Extremely cold this morning. Thermometer at sum-ise, 26°. Air pure, sun bright, and the wind strong from the west. Moved at quarter to 6. The pioneer party went ahead, in order to prepare the road. Om* coiu-se is westward, up Egan Canon, by an easy ascent, to Round Valley, about 2.5 miles, thence six miles across Round Valley, and by a ravine which required some work, to the summit of the Montim range (elevation above the sea, 7,135 feet)^ and thence 9.5 miles across Butte Valley, to the vicinity of a small well on the west side of the valley. Egan Canon we found quite natri)\v, and somewhat remarkable on account of the rocks which wall it in on either side. These rocks are tremendously massive, and rise sheer to a height in one place of about 1,000 feet. They are a compact quartz granite, of a gi-ayisli color, which becomes embrowned by exposure, and is intermingled with altered slate. SmaE veins of pure white quartz are seen traversing it A'cry conspicu- ously. The general character of the range (Montim) is granitic at the base in some places, but mostly tilted and highly-altered stratiiied rocks, quartzite, slates, &c. Higher up, siliceous limestones, and, on the Avest side, porphyritic rocks. The raAines and heights abound with cedar, and thick artemisla characterizes the valleys. Just after crossing Round Valley Ave passed through a sort of cedar and sage-brush fence, Avhich must haA'e been about .75 of a mile long, and put up by the Indians. Its pui-- l)0se, doubtless, Avas to catch rabbits by the suspension upon it of a net, in the mode explained before, and their attempting to run through it. The Montim Range, betAveen Steptoe and Butte Valley, is the boundary betAveen the Go-shoot and Sho-sho-nee tribes of Indians; the latter ranging to the Avest of the line. Round Valley, Avliich is about 4 miles Avide and IG miles long, abounds in grass. Butte Valley ranges north and south, and at the north appears to be uninterrupted except by Ioav hills; at the south it is closed in by a cross-range some 30 miles oif. It is about 8 miles wide, and takes its name from the buttes or table-hills in it. Soil of the usual yellowish color, and of a ftiy argillo-arenaceous character, good for nothing but to sustain the artemlsia. (Altitude above the sea, 6,148 feet). The range of mount- ains limiting it on its Avest side are Ioav, and, though covered Avith cedar, present but little indications of AA^ater. Those at the south end, from their height and suoaa', giA'e better indications. The Humboldt range has appeared ahead of us to-day, looming ujj above the range limiting Butte Valley on the west, and is covered with snow. It REPOBT AND JOURNAL. 61 is the luost imposing range I have seen since leaving the Wiihsatcli Mountains, and is to be seen stretching far to the northward. Our day's travel has been 18.1 miles, and, as it Avas quite warm in the afternoon, we found it very fatiguing crossing Butte Valley, lloiul generally good. Met five iSho-sho-nees on the road, clothed in rabbit-skins, like the Go-shoots, but all had leg- gings. We are encamped at the foot of a dark brown, isolated, porphyritic rock, near the summit of Avhich is a small dug well, 10 feet deep and 2 feet Avide. The water in this well can only get here on the principle of the siphon bringing it from some distant source. At present it is only 2 J feet deep in the Avell, and is barely sufficient for culinary purposes. The grass is about 1.5 miles to the northeast of the spring, on the side of the hill, and does not appear abundant. The dearth of water on the route to-day makes it important, if for no other reason, that the route should be changed farther to the south. (Subsequent to this date, in the summer, this point had to be abandoned by the mail company as a station on account of the well drying up. I have learned, however, that they have since found water in the vicinity, probably about 2 miles to the southeast, where a Sho-sho-nee told us there was water.) The mail company has three traveling agents between Salt Lake City and the Humboldt Eiver — Howard Egan, superintending agent; Ball Robert, district agent bet\\een Salt Lake City and Pleasant Valley; and Lott Huntingdon, the agent for the district between Pleasant Valley and the Humboldt. Then they have an agent called station agent, and from three to seven persons at each station, one being the mail-car- rier. The number of mules varies at these stations from 8 to 15. The mail during this winter was carried on a pack-mule, which was sometimes led and sometimes di'iven. The required rate of travel (which was accomplished) was 60 miles in every twenty- four hours, changing every 20 to 30 miles. The superintending agent is said to get from $200 to $250 per month, the district agent SlOO, the station agent from $50 to $75, and the hands from $25 to $50, according to Avorth. One of the mail company informs me that along the route from this station to the Humboldt they had last Avinter to subsist themselves on mule and coyote (wolf) meat. Their stock was transferred from the old road so late last fall as to have caused the death of one man, Avho died from cold on his last trip over the Goose Creek Mountains, and they Avere consequently ill supplied Avitli provisions on tlie ncAV route. During the Avinter the stock had a little grain, but subsisted principally on grass. The snow on the diAide betAveen Butte and Steptoe Valleys Avas from 2 to 4 feet deep; in some places in the mountains as much as 10 feet; in Butte Valley about 18 inches. It is reported by some of the mail company that there is a cave, about three days' travel to the south of Steptoe Valley, into Avhich persons have traveled a mile; some say as many as 3 miles, when they came to a precipice which prevented their going farther. They rolled rocks doAvn, and the lapse of time before striking the bottom shoAved the depth to have been very gi-eat. There is said to be a number of rooms, in one of AA'hicli is a beautiful spring. It was found by some persons avIio came from Fillmore City and traveled Avest. The location of the cave is not given, hoAvever, Avith any precision, and it is not in my pOAver, for Avant of time, to certify, myself, to the trutli of the report. (I may as well say here, however, that on our return i-oute, 62 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. which was 25 or 30 miles to the south of tliis, although we saw some small caves, we saw none of the extent described.) 3Iay 16, Camp No. 13, west slope of Bttfte VaUeij. — Altitude 6,523 feet. First mild morning we have had. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 32°. Moved at 20 minutes of 6. Course continues a little north of west. In 2 miles reach summit of divide between Butte and Long Valleys (altitude above the sea 6,670 feet), by a very gradual ascent, and 2.5 miles more, by an easy descent, reach Long Valley. This valley, which lies, like those we have crossed, from south to north, is shut in by a pretty high mountain at its north end, from 10 to 15 miles oif, showing passes in that quarter; and the south end appears closed, some 25 or 30 miles off, by a cross-range, also exhibiting passes through it. Elevation above the sea, 6,195 feet. Crossing this dry valley, which is 2.7 miles wide, 3.1 miles more up a tolerable grade brings you to the summit of a low range, running north and south, dividing Long from Ruby Valley, about one mile below which, on the west slope, we encamp, at a spring just discovered by Lott Huntingdon, of the mail party, and which therefore I have called after him. It is a good camping-place, and grass and fuel are convenient. Journey to-day, 12 miles. Road good. Siliceous limestones were seen in the range dividing Butte and Long Valleys ; and in the range bordering this last valley, on its east and west sides, are light-yellowish, earthy limestones, full of fossils of the Carboniferous range ; also compact light-gray limestone, some siliceous and slaty rocks, &c. Igneous rocks, of a basaltic appearance (brown porphyry), are found near the limestones in the vicinity of Huntingdon Spring. Soil of valleys accordingly. Cedar and pine characterize the Sifna of the mountains, and the Artemisia trideiitata, or wild sage, a certain index of sterility, the valleys. The latter has impeded our wagons a great deal to-da}', and has been seen almost everywhere from Fort Laramie as far as we have come, and was afterward fotmd to characterize the country even to the east foot of the Sierra Nevada. A high snow-mountain has appeared some 30 miles off to the south of us, wliich will doubtless be of service in furnishing Avater on our return trip in that quarter. Several antelope have been seen for the iirst time since we left Camp Floyd. About an hour after Ave Avent into camp the guide and party came in. It Avill be recollected that he jDarted from us at Pleasant Valley, Camp No. 8, May 10. He reports that in consequence of his getting out of provisions, and the Indian he had picked Tip as guide knoAving nothing of the country farther Avest, he struck north for our trail, and met it at the l)ridge in Steptoe Valley. Thence he foUoAved our track. He represents that he has found a route generally parallel to the one we are on, and some 30 miles to the south, Avhich is practicable for Avagons, and fiu'nishes Avater and grass at intervals of 15 to 20 miles. Indeed, a good portion of the Avay is an old Avagon-road, Avhich, according to Lott Huntingdon, AA'as used by a party of emigrants Avho attempted to make their Avay from Fillmore to California and perished (On our return trip, hoAvCA'cr, Ave got on this road, and Avere told by the Indians that it had been made by the Jlormons the spnng previous, and was, without question, that which they made Avlien they fled before the approach of the troops, and wdien it was reported they had gone to Silver Mountains.) RErORT AND JOURNAL. 63 Got a number of tlio Slio-slio-noe Avords tliroug-li Ute Pete from a Slio-sho-nee, by name Tar-a-ke-gaii. It is to be regretted tliat the necessity of sending Pete always with the guide, so as to enable him to get information from the Indians in rela- tion to the country south of us, makes it impossible for me to have that converse with the Indians I meet which I would like in order to obtain a knowledge of their man- ners, customs, &c. But to get a good wagon-road, if possible, to the south of us, is of the first importance, and therefore the guide cannot dispense with his services. Besides, though young, he is a capital votjafjcur, and well acquainted with signs of water, grass, &c. ; and already in this respect the chief guide has found him invalua- ble. I can never forget the kindness of Dr. Hurt in recommending him to me. May 17, Camp No. 14, Ilanthujdon's Spring, east slope of Jxahij Valley.— MiiixiAe above the sea, 7,190 feet. The guide leaves us again this morning with a Sho-sho-nee Indian, Tar-a-ke-gan, to go south, and continue his examination of the country south and west, and will join us at our first camp after leaving Ruby Valley. Pete and two others of the party accompany him. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 44°. Move at quarter to G, and, shortly after attaining summit of Too-muntz range (7,283 feet above the sea,) pass down a canon, which I call Murrj-'s Canon, after Lieut. Alexander ]\Iurry, the commanding officer of the escort. The rocks are more calcareous and slaty than those we passed yesteiday, and are of yellowish color. Some little work done in the canon, to allow the wagons to get along. In 3.9 miles we reach the mouth of the canon, and immediately cross Ruby Valley, requiring 5.3 miles more of travel to mail-station in the valley, where we encamp at 9.30 a. m. Journey, 9.2 miles. Road good. At our camp is a spring which sends out a small stream of pure water, flowing along the valley northwardly. Ruby Valley is well supplied farther north with streams from the Humboldt Momitains, which limit it on its west side ; and some 25 or 30 miles north of us, in the valley, is said to be a large lake, Avliich doubtless is Beckwith's Lake Franklin. This valley, like all those we have crossed, has a du-ty-yellowish, forbidding ap- pearance; is covered Avith artemisia, and very level, and has a thirsty appearance, though doubtless farther north it is more inviting. It is said to extend north as far as the Humboldt River, a distance of GO to 70 miles, and has a great deal of cultivable soil in that direction, Avhicli is capable of irrigation. At the south, about 10 miles from our camp, it is hemmed in by the mountains, which close in from the east and west sides, showing, lioweA^er, a pass through to the valley lying to the south. The breadth of the valley where we cross it is about 9 miles. Mr. Jarvis, the Indian agent, has commenced, I am informed, an Indian farm in this valley, about 40 miles to the north of oi;r camp, for the Sho-sho-nees. An abun- dance of grass, water, cedar, and pine is found in the mountains on either side of the valley, particularly in the Humboldt range skirting it on the wxst, and it is repre- sented as being quite a Avarm valley. The suoav last Avinter is represented as not having been more than one-half foot deep in it. In Hasting's Pass, Avhicli leads through the Humboldt range into the valley of the south fork of the Humboldt, the snow Avas 4 feet deep. 64 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Large uumbers of Sho-slio-nees winter in Ruby Valley, on accoiint of its being wanner than the other valleys around. One of the mail party represents that as many as 1,500 must have staid here last Avinter. At the present time they are scattered, for purposes of hunting. They are a fine-looking tribe of Indians, and all those I have seen have good countenances. They have generally nothing but the brush-barrier or inclosed fence, summer and winter, like the Go-shoots, to protect them from the weather, though some of them erect pole-lodges. Mr. Huntingdon thinks that one- third of them cany guns ; the rest carry the bow and quiver. They have committed no depredations lately, though last year they attempted to steal some horses from some emigrants. A great deal of game, such as antelope and aquatic fowl, is said to abound in this region, and deer and mountain-sheep are also seen. Ruby Valley takes its name from the circumstance, so I am infornied, of rubies having been picked up in it on the west side, a few miles north of "tlie mail-station. However this may be, it is very certain we could not find any, and the probabilities are that it is no more a ruby valley than the others we have crossed. The mail-station at this point is at present a mere shed. Pine-log houses are at present being put up. The Humboldt IVrountains, white with snow, have for the last two days been seen at times, and have looked grand and massive. Their Indian name is Tac-a-roy, mean- ing snow-mountains. They are certainly the most fonnidable mountains Ave have seen since we left Camp Floyd, and are composed of siliceous limestones, qiiartzite, coarse sandstones, &c. Mmj 18, Camp No. 15, Ruhj Vallcij. — Altitude, 5,953 feet. The mules ran against the cords of the barometer-tent eai-ly this morning and prostrated it, canying with it the two barometer, SAvhich Avere suspended from the tripod. Fortunately, only one Avas affected by the accident, fi little air getting into the tul)e, Avhich can be easily remedied. Thei'mometer at 4.45 a. m., 38°. Moved at 5i o'clock. Struck immediately for Hasting's Pass, lying soutliAvest from mail-station, the foot of which Ave reach in 2.5 miles, and the summit by a remarkably easy ascent in 3.3 miles more. This pass leads through the Humboldt range from Ruby Valley into the valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, AA'hich some call Himtingdon's Creek. For the first time we in this pass get into Beekwith's, here coincident Avith Hasting's, road, both of Avhich at the present time are very indistinct. Descending from the sunmiit, by the finest kind of grade, in about 4 miles we leave BeclvAvith's and Hasting's roads, Avliich go, the former northwestwardly to join the old road along the Humboldt, 10 miles aboA-e Lassen's MeadoAvs, the latter northwardly to join the same road at the mouth of the South Fork of the Humboldt ; Avhile Ave strike soutlnvestAvardly, OA'er an unknown country, toAvard the most northern bend of Walker's River, my object being to cut off the great detour which the other roads make in going all around by the Humboldt River and sink, to reach Genoa in Carson Valley. We also noAV leave Chorpenning's or Mail Company's extension of my route from Hasting's Pass, it also turning northAvard, and joining the old road near Gravelly Ford, which they follow by way of the sink of the Humboldt and RagtoAvn, on Carson River, to Genoa. Frc'mont, I notice by the Topographical EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 05 Bureau map, has traveled over a portion of the country to the southwest of us, but as he has never submitted a detailed report of this reconnaissance, and his track is no longer visible, and it goes too far ^outh for our purposes, his exploration is of no service to us in our progress. From this point, therefore, to where we expect to strike the old road on Carson River, we will have to be guided entirely by the country as it luifolds itself. Tliis Hasting's Pass, the summit of which is 6,580 feet above the sea, is the finest, on account of its breadth and easy grade, of any we have threaded, except Camp Floyd Pass. The twittering of the birds we found here also more resonant and delightful than in any other locality. There is a bird in the mountains a little larger than the jay, and of a deeper blue color, that utters an impudent screaming note, and seems to become particularly saucy in proportion as we approach it. It is, however, quite wild, and it is difHcult to approach near enoiigh to shoot it. It was in this pass that Messrs. Duncan and Lufkin overtook us on their way from Salt Lake City to Genoa. They had left the city two weeks previously, and Mr. Duncan, who has traveled the old route by the City of Rocks, says he thinks the one he is now on is the best. They follow from this point the mail-route, toward the main Humboldt. I was much pleased with the little two-horse wagon they had with them. It was very light, and was hung at the middle on two springs, placed longitud- inally; and they say they have carried 1,000 pounds in it over the Sierra Nevada. I should think it a capital wagon for rapid traveling over the plains. It Avas built at Concord, N. II. After reaching the west foot of Hasting's Pass, in the valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, we struck for a pass in the next western range, which we could see lying to the southwest of us, about 9 miles off, and which looked favorable for admis- sion into the next valley. In 4 miles we struck the South Fork of the Humboldt, a rapid stream, stony bottom, 6 feet Avide, J foot deep, course northwardly. We follow up this creek for about a mile, and then leaving it, in about 2 miles, come to a .small mountain-stream flowing over a stony bottom, Avhere we encamp at 1 o'clock. Grass along the stream, and plenty higher up on the slopes of the mountains. Sage plentiful. Journey 17.6 miles. Road good, though the high sage-brush, as usual, impeded us a little. This our heavy train, hoAvever, breaks doAvn, and makes a very passable road for those Avho may folloAv us. The valley of the South Fork of the Humboldt, which takes its rise near and to the nortliAvest of our camp, is a very open one, both north and south ; a slight rise some 1.5 miles oft' toAvard its south end, showing a rim in that direction. Its soil is a yelloAvish areno-argillaceous earth, which is capable, to a limited extent, of being irrigated by the stream running through it. As usual the artcmisia covers the valley, and in this locality is quite rank in growth. Altitude of valley above the sea 5,640 feet. A Sho-sho-nee Indian and his squaAv, with her child strapped on her back, folloAved us to camp. Both seem kind-hearted and have good countenances. The child is a perfect picture of a fat, Avell-conditioned boy, and has a very pleasing expression of countenance. He is perfectly naked, and around his neck has several strings of 9 BU 66 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. wampum. The squaw is naked from her head to her h)his, and is not in the slightest disconcerted by the gaze of spectators. Mr. Reese, the guide, came into camp this evening, and reports plenty of water and grass, and a good country for a road parallel to our route, and south of us from the point he visited south of Camp 14 to the valley we are now in, but sees no way of getting through the range of mountains lying west of us, except by the pass near us, which we are aiming at. If so, the contemplated southern parallel route would be at this point too far north, and we should not gain in distance over the route we have come. I ti-ust, however, we will yet find that we can contiiuie our more southern route westwai'dly without de^^ating so much from the j^roper direction. I think I can see indications of a pass which Avill make the thing practicable. This proved to be the fact on our return. We have had thunder and some little lightning this afternoon and evening, but only a few drops of rain. Maij 19, Camp No. 16, Vallcij of South Fork of the HiouhoJiU. — Altitude above the sea, 6,028 feet. Thennometer at 4.30 a. m., 38°. 2.5. Morning bright and pleasant. Raised camp at 25 minutes of 6, and directed our course west of south to pass of the mountain-range du-ectly west of us. In 2 miles cross a small rapid mountain-rill. These streams may not run in the summer and fall, but their sources, which are springs at the base of the mountains, are doubtless perennial. Wild j^arsnips, said to be poisonous to man and beast, abound here. Grease, or whisky and gunpowder, are said to be the antidote. Pass places where the Indians have dammed up the rills to cause them to flood the habitations or holes of badgers, gophers, rats, &c., and thus they secure them for their fle.sh and skins. In two more miles we commence ascending the pass, which on the ea.st side is quite steep, all the teams doubling but the leading one, and ropes being used to keep the wagons from upsetting. Some side-hill cutting done ; train detained 2 J hours on that account. A road, however, of good grade can be made up the pass; (and since we traveled over it I have been infonaied that the mail company, which has transposed its stock on my route from Ruby Valley, has made a road here.) Probably south side of pass will furnish best grade. Altitude of summit of pass above the sea, 7,300 feet. From this summit we obtain a most extensive view of distant mountains. Toward the east may be seen four distinct ranges, some of them covered with snow. These are the ranges we have been crossing for several days back. Toward the west, bound- ing a valley running north and south, and over which lies our course, may be seen a range, and back of it one or two more; the highest covered Avith snow. The valley referred to is quite M'hite toward the north with a saline efflorescence, and bearing about due west and lying in it is a small lake, into which apparently runs a good-sized stream. I visited a high ^iromontory near the pass to reconnoiter for a pass through the next range lying immediately to our west. Detennined to try the one bearing mag- netically S. 40° W. as being the most favorable in direction. There is another bear- ing directly west, but it would be too far to the north. Directed guide to proceed to the pass in advance, and send back, first, a report about grass and water, at east foot REPORT AND JOURNAL. 67 of tlie pass for to-morrow's camp; and, subsequently, another in respect to the practi- cabiHty of the pass. My plan has been to keep the guide well in advance, and to have him send or bring back reports from time to time, so as to have as little detention as possible, and get the best route. Descending from pass by an easy grade down the west slope of the range, albeit in places slightly sidling, in 3 miles and at quarter to 1 p. m., encamped in splendid and abundant grass, near the small stream which comes down the pass. Day's travel 7.1 miles ; road good except at points as stated, and which can be remedied. Several Sho-sho-nees joined us on oiir route. One of them amused the party very much by his awkward attempts to mount a mule, and, when he got on, his rabbit-skin dress frightened the animal so much as to cause him to run off with his nondescript load, much to the merriment of the men. They wear their skin capes siunmer and winter, and on such a hot day as this I should suppose the wamith of it would be insupportable. I notice that before they venture to join us they take a good look at us from distant prominent points. The merry sound of the blacksmith's anvil and forge, and the hammer of the wheel- wright, after we got into camp, reminds me constantly of the very efficient manner, thanks to General Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, in which I have been fitted out by the Quartermaster's Department. The army wagons are, however, of such superior character as very seldom to require repairs. On the march of the Utah forces from Fort Leavenworth these wagons were the admiration of every one, 60 strongly were they made, and so suitable in weight and capacity. I doubt if any army in any country can show anything superior. The portable forge, however, of which no expedition like ours should be destitute, Ave found indispensable for the prep- aration of the shoes for the animals, and other puqjoses. Among the Sho-sho-nees who have visited our camp is Cho-kup, the chief of the Humboldt River band of the Sho-sho-nees. It is to be regretted, as I have before remarked, that I am obliged to let Indian Pete, the interpreter, go with my guide ahead, in order to talk with the Indians they may meet. I am thus deprived of the advantages of the information I might otherwise obtain from this chief respecting his tribe. I liJive had a sketch of him taken. He is a very respectful, intelligent, Avell- behaved Indian, and seems to have gained the approbation of the California Mail Company. In age I should suppose he was about thirty-five years. He is dressed in buckskin pants, a check under, and a woolen over shirt ; has a handkerchief tied around his neck, wears shoes, and has a yellowish felt hat. His air is that of a man who, while knowing his own powers, is capable of scanning those of others. He showed me a letter of Mr. Choi-penning, recommending him as a good Indian, &c. This, together with my intercourse with him, has induced me, from motives of policy as well as justice, to give him the following paper : "Camp No. 17, Cho-ki:p's Pass, ''May 10, 1859. " To all whom it may concern : "This is to inform persons that the bearer of this paper is Cho-kup, chief of the Sho-sho-nees south of the Humboldt River, and as he is represented, and from my inter- 68 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. course with him, I beHeve him, to be a frieud of the Avhite man, and. a good, respect- able, and well-behaved Indian, I bespeak for him and his people the kind ti-eatment at the hands of the travelers tlu-ongh their country that their recent good conduct entitle them to, and -which, if they continue to receive, will insure all who may pass through their country safety to their persons and property. "J. H. SlMP.SON, '^Cajdain ToiKifjraphkid Enfi'nieersy I have made it a point to treat the Indians I meet kindlv, making them small presents, which I trust will not be without their use in securing their friendly feel- ing and conduct. A great many of the difficulties our country has had with the Indians, according to my obsei'vation and experience, have grown out of the bad treatment they have received at the hands of insolent and cowardly men, who, not gifted with the bravery which is perfectly consistent with a kind and generous heart, have, Avhen they thought they could do it with impunity, maltreated them ; the conse- quence resulting that the very next body of whites they have met have not imfre- cpiently been made to suffer the penalties which in this way they are almost always sure to inflict indiscriminately on parties, whether they deserve it or not. The mountain range which we ha^•e just crossed, and near the foot of which we are encamped, is called the We-a-bah Mountains, or the mountains, as Ute Pete says, of the fluttering or night bird. It is composed of sandstones, siliceous conglomerates, and, distant from the road, of bluish-gray hmestone. The general name for mountain, among the Sho-sho-nees, seems to be Toy-ap. The pass we have come tlu-ough I call after the cliief, Cho-kup's Pass. May 20, Camp No. 17, tvest slope of Cho-'kups Pass. — Altitude above the sea, 6,018 feet. The dragoon I sent out Avith the guide returned last night at 10 o'clock^ and reports water and gi-ass 15 miles off, in the direction of pass, tlu-ough the next range, ahead. Thermometer at 4.30 a. m., 38°.75. Moved at 5.30 o'clock. In 1 mile reach foot of pass in Pah-hun-nupe, or Water Valley. This valley apparently closed at south end, say 25 miles off; at north end, some 30 miles off"; low passes apparently at either end. The indications are that this valley can be passed through over to a more southern, southeastern, or southwestern valley by practicable passes, a fact of signiticance on our return route. Sand-hill cranes, cui'lew, and other marsh birds abound in the valley, and antelope are seen in the distance. Six and eight-tenths miles farther brings us to a large spring, in marsh, where we M'ater. Plenty of grass about it, though not of best quality. This valley is in some portions argillaceous and in some arenaceous. The latter glitter with small crystals of quartz, of very pure character, which we amuse ourselves in picking up, and facetiously call California diamonds. The appel- lation, doubtless, as veritable as the epithet of ruby, which seems to belong to the precious stones said to have beeji found in Ruby Valley. A gi-eat deal of alkaline marsh, and water in small lakes, .north of route. Altitude of valley above the sea, 5,660 feet. In 5.6 miles more reach a large spring on west side of valley, at foot of mountain range, where we encamp in pure salt grass, which the animals eat with avidity. It is, however, not abundant. Bunch-grass can be found in canon back of camp. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 69 Road to-day g'ood, tlioug'li it miylit cut up early in tlio spring. Higher ground, liow- ever, exists below or south of the road, over which, in this case, the wagons could travel. Day's travel, 13.3 miles. The damaged barometer cleaned and refitted with fresh mercury by Mr. Euo-el- mann. At sunset ascended high peak, back or west of camp, to view the pass we have been aiming at. It looks favorable. From this peak had a most magnificent view of the mountains in every quarter of the horizon — the Humboldt range, to the east of north, showing its white snowy sunmiits far above the intervening' ones. These distant views have, at least on my mind, a decidedly moral and religious effect ; and I cannot but believe that they are not less productive of emotions of value in this respect than they are of use in accustoming the mind to large conceptions, and thus giving it power and capacity. The mysterious property of nature to develop the whole man, including the mind, soul, and body, is a subject Avhich I think has not received .the attention from jdiilosophers which its importance demands ; and though Professor Arnold Guyot, of Princeton, has written a most capital work on the theme "Earth and Man", yet a great deal remains to be done to bring the matter to the profit of the world at large, which, it seems to me, a wise and beneficent Greator has ordained should l)e gathered from the contemplation and proper use of his works. But then the question arises, Do we rise from the contemplation of nature to nature's God, and therefore to a realization of the amplitude and reach to which our minds are capable, by our own unaided spirit ; or is it by the superinduced Spirit of the Almighty Himself, which Ave have I'eceived, it may be, on account of His only Son ? But these speculations may be considered as foreign to the necessary rigor of an official report ; and I, therefore, will indulge in them no further than to say that, according to my notions, the latter I believe to be the true theory.* * I must confess that in all the works of Baron HumboltU -svitU which I am couversant, I have never seen any- thing to indicate that he ever arose in his conceptions of nature to the ultimate idea which, to my mind, they are intended to disclose, to wit, the power and goodness of the Creator, aud thus to produce within us the ability and delight of adoring Him " of wliom, and through whom, and to whom are all things," (Romans xi, 315.) In his Cosmos the utmost he s.ays upon the subject is contained in this sentence: " The earnest and solemn thoughts awakened by a communion with nature intuitively arise from a presentiment of the order and harmony pervading the whole universe, aud from the contrast we draw between the narrow limits of our own existence and the image of infinity revealed on every side, whether we look upward to the starry vault of heaven, scan the far-stretching plain before us, or seek to trace the dim horizon across the vast expanse of ocean." Now, here, the height of his conception is an idea of infinity, in connection with the order aud harmony of the universe, but he sees or acknowledges nothing of an Infinite Mind, which has created and still upholds all things, and seems to be utterly unconscious of that moral and sjiiritual microcmm, which to some persons is mirrored in their souls when they contemplate nature in hor grandest and most beautiful forms. Indeed, to my mind, hia application of the word Cosmos to " the ttniversal all," (To Uni;) and yet non-recognition of Him " in whom we live and move .and have our being," and " by whom the world and all things therein were made," is as sensible as it would bo for a physician to talk of the faculties and functions of tho human body, and yet ignore entirely the sentient, reasoning soul, the seat of its life and the controller of its .actions. January 29, 1861.— Since writing the foregoing, I have read Professor Guyot's interesting address of February 16, 1860, to the American Geographical and Statistical Society, on Carl Ritter, the world- renowned author, as he terms him, of the classical "Krdkunde, &c., or tho science of the globe in its relations to nature and to the history of mankind.' From this address I learn that the crowning excellence of this great physicist was his Christian belief and character, through which he was enabled to see nature purely and describe her graciously as the work of an all-wise and benevo- lent Creator, who has so harmonized all things, both in the world of matter and spirit, as by their beautiful adaptation, and relation to disclose the infinitude of Him who is the beginning and end, the alpha and omega, of .ill things. The spirit in which Riiter studied nature is well shown by the motto which he placed at the bottom of the portrait presented to him by the students of the University of Berlin, through a committee, of which Mr. Guyot was one, 70 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. On descending to camp, found Pete had come in from the guide's party, and he reports all right ahead for 18 miles, to a point Avhere there is grass and water, and where I expect to camp to-morrow. It seems the guide took a pass a little to the north of the one I saw from the high promontory of Cho-kup's Pass yesterday ; but Pete, in returning to camp, went through the one I refeired to, and found it not only more direct but easier. Our observations place this camp (No. 18) in longitude 115° 56' 52", latitude 39° 49' 43". May 21, Camp No. 18, ivest side of ralhlum-nupe Valhy. — Elevation above the sea, 5,692 feet. Morning bright. Thermometer at 4i o'clock a. m., 32°. Kaised camp at 5.25 a. m. Keep up the Pah-hun-nupe Valley, or south, two miles; then turn to the right up toward the pass of west range bounding the valley; two miles more commence ascending pass. Notice a couple of bush-fences or barriers converging to a narrow pass, and a large hole in this last portion. Pete says they are to guide deer near the hole, in wliich the Indian hides himself, and shoots them as they pass with bow and aiTOws at night, a fire being used as a lure. Notice a plant of small leaf, and taste of the turnip. In five miles more, by a very gradual ascent, reach second highest as follows : " Our earth is a star among the stars ; and should not we, who are on it, prepare ourselves by it for the con- teiuplatiou of the universe and its Author ?" Professor Guyot, iu speakiug of the special peculiarities of Ritter and HiiiubokU, in his address, discourses as follows : " The picture that I have just attempted of Ritter's ideas, method, aud labors sufficiently deBues, if I err not, the part performed in geographical science by that faithful and gifted scholar, from that achieved by Humboldt. Humboldt seeks to determine the general laws of the physical world. Ritter seizes them as applied, aud in their concrete and actual connection in every given country aud iu the whole globe, and considers nature in its totality as an element in the development of mankind, from which alone these natural forms aud influences receive their true and final signifi- cance. "At the moment these faithful guides leave us to oiirselves, when their voice will utter no more woids of wisdom, it may be well for us to ask ourselves how far they led us in the high-road of science, and what is the task which is still before us. Humboldt, with a surpassing richness of knowledge, attempted to give us a connected picture of the totality of the physical universe ; but admirable as is the Cosmos, after having read its eloquent pages, we pause and involun- tarily ask for the final object of the Creator iu biiildiug up that marvelous structure ; we ask for a tie which connects it with Him, at least that portion of the creation in which we dwell ; for a voice which rises from it as a word of praise aud we find it not. Far from me even the idea of casting a blame upon the great and good philosopher. I am fully aware that his plau was purposely limited to the material world which is his theme. I only wish to remark that we cannot stop there. " It is, indeed, a universal law of all that exists, as I have elsewhere said, not to have iu itself either the reason or the entire aim of its existence. Every order of facts, like every individual being, forms but a portion of a greater organization, the plan and idea of which go it finitely beyond it, and in which it is destined to play a part. The reason of its existence, therefore, is not in itself, but out of it ; not below, but above it. The explanation of the beautiful but often mysterions arrangements of the physical globe is to be found not in it, but in the higher moral and intellectual sphere of man, for whom they were made, in order to be there the means of accomplishing a more exalted end than their mere m.aterial existence. The key which opens for us the mysteries of the evolutions of history, is to be sought in that future perfect economy which is its end, and toward which, under food's guidance, human progress is advancing with a steady step. A science of the globe which excludes the spirit world represented by man, is a beauti- ful body without a soul. Ritter, as I trust I have abundantly shown, put a soul iuto that body. This will make his memory live forever in the grateful remembrance of all lovers of true science. "Let ns, therefore, continue iu the footsteps of these masters in science. Humboldt furnished the means, Ritter marks the goal. Like Humboldt, let us study nature in a truth-loving and devoted spirit, and with combined forces perfect that edifice which he has already re.ared so high. Like Ritter, let us, with scrupulous care and a pure mind, pur- sue in all parts of our earthly domain the investigation of these wondrous harmonies of nature and history of which he has traced the great outlines. With the lofty ideal which was before his mind, let us try to realize his conception, which still needs a further growth to unfold all its beauty ; and we shall have a right to look with hope toward a future science and a future cosmos, which will be the full and adequate expression of the wisdom and goodness dis- played in God's plan of the material and moral creation, which will satisfy all the legitimate craving of the human mind for knowledge, and which, by its very utterance, shall be, according to Ritter's own words, man's song of praise and of adoration to the divine Author of the universe." EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 71 summit of pass, whence can be seen, to the soutli and soutliwest, a loAV ridge trending apparently northwest and southeast, and, still farther, two otlier ranges, generally par- allel to the other, and their highest portions covered with snow. Bearing, magnetically, south 5° west, probably some 25 or 30 miles off, is quite a conspicuous peak of one of the more distant ranges. Ever since we left Camp Floyd we have only crossed valleys and mountain-ranges, generally running- north and south, to see others lying to the west of us, running in the same direction, and which we have in turn crossed. This system continues to prevail. The pass we have come through, a most excellent one for a wagon-road, the only steep portion being for about 100 yai'ds at the summit. Altitude above the sea, 6,757 feet. Cedar abounds in it and on the adjacent side-hills. Immediately to our north is a conical peak, which, as we found afterward, in our journey westward, continued for days a most notable landmark, and which I call Cooper s Peak, after Adjutant- General Cooper of the Army. In 6 miles from summit, by an easy grade, at a quarter to 1 o'clock, reach the She-o-wi-te, or Willow Ci'eek, where we encamp. The short, steep hill which we passed down just before reaching camp, may be turned at the south by making a short detour. She-o-wi-te Creek, a fine one, 4 feet wide, 1 foot deep, and quite rapid. It sinks about 1 mile below camp. Grass along it and on side-hills. Joiu-ney, 14.9 miles. Road good, except short hill referred to, which can be avoided. Passing gen- erally over ridges and benches, the soil has been, in some places, arenaceous, in other, argillo-arenaceous, and, in most, gravelly. The rocks have been granular, crystalline^ magnesian limestone of a light-gray color, near Camp No. 18, and, as we advanced, subcrystalline compact limestones, altered slates, quartzite, and other highly metamor- phosed rocks have prevailed, indicating the proximity of igneous rocks. The valley in which we are encanqied differs from any we have seen. Hereto- fore they have ranged north and south, and averaged a bi'eadth of probably only one- fourth tlieir length. This one, however, has no particular form, and, while branching out laterally in different directions, shows a form as long as it is broad. The Digger Indians that have come into our camp call it Ko-bah, or Face Valley, a very good name. There are thi-ee of these Indians, who appear to be grandtather, son, and grand- sou. They confirm the names of valleys and mountains as given by Cho-kup. I inquired of them the number of their kind of people. To this I could only get the answer there were very few of them. One of them is an old man of at least sixty years, and he as well as the others represent that they have always lived in this val- ley, and, never having gone far from it, cannot tell us of the water and mountains l)eyond their limited range. They say they have no chief, though they speak the Sho-sho-nee language; are clothed with the rabbit-skin cape, similar to the Go-shoots, and represent that they wear no leggings, even in the winter. This is scarcely credible, cold as the winter must be in this region, but it seems to be a fact. They are very talkative and lively. Eat rats, lizards, grass-seeds, &c., like the Go-shoots. The guide says he saw them, after throwing the rats in the fire, and thus roasting them, eat them, entrails and all, the children in particular beuig very fond of the juices, 72 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GEEAT BASIN OF [JTAH. which they would lick in with their tongues and push into their mouths with their fingers. The old man represents that a number of his people died last winter from starvation and cold. We found one of the guide's party here. The guide and another man are still out toward the southwest looking for a pass in that direction. Five of the men within the last two or three days have reported themselves sick. The disease the doctor jironounces a species of intermittent fever. This afternoon, just before sundown, Lieutenant Murry and m3'self took a stroll up the creek to view a wick-e-up of the Diggers that have visited our camp. It had been reported to be but about from one-eighth to one-fourth of a mile above our camp; but, with all the search we could give for about a mile up, we could see nothing of it. Returning on the other side of the creek, we at last got sight of it, it being only distinguished froni the sage-bushes around it by the circular foi'm given to its development, it being made of these bushes in their still growing state, and some few loose ones thrown in. To our surprise the inmates were gone. This we conceived strange, as they had come into our camp immediately on our arrival, and seemed to be very confident of protection and safety. What makes the matter more strange, it ap- pears that in going off they shot an arrow into one of our beeves, which looks as if they had become oftended at something. 'J'he wound, however, was but slight,* and has done the animal no material damage. May 22, Camp No. 19, She-o-wi-te, or Willow Creeh. — Altitude above the sea, 6,414 feet. Thermometer at 7 a. m., 59°. Morning beautiful. Whole command allowed to sleep longer than usual, on account of our laying over to recruit our animals and observe the Sabbath. The g-uide came in last night about 11 o'clock, having traveled from daylight to that hour. He thinks he must have traveled 60 miles. Repoi'ts water to the Avest of south and also to the southwest of us, and our ability to get through the mountains in that direction. Assistant Surgeon Baily reports three more men on tlie sick-list Avitli same complaint as already stated. This makes eight of the command unfit for duty. This day's rest, it is hoped, may be of ser^dce to them. Learned this morning the cause of the conduct of the Indians yesterday, in leav- ing so hastily their Avick-e-up, and shooting an arrow into one of our beeves. It seems the cook of my mess, as he says, jokingly pointed very significantly to the revolver about his waist, as a means to keep the dirty fellows from hovering, with their uncombed lively hair, over his viands ; and the eftect was just as he might have ex})ected, an im- mediate scampering of them and their families from the vicinity, with some considerable hate in their bosoms, wliich was evinced in their flight by their putting an arrow into one of oiu" beeves. I regret this act of thoughtlessness on the part of the cook exceed- ingly, both on account of its giving us a bad name among the Indians whom they may meet, and because it has deprived us of the information I was in hopes of deriving from them. I have given orders to the effect that if the like indiscreet act should be com- mitted again the perpetrator would be held to a strict accoimt for it, and should be punished to the extent of his crime. As I have before stated, my policy with the Indians has always been one, so far as it could be, of peace and good-will toward them; and I have never found anything but good resulting from it. REPORT AND JOURNAL. . 73 I'liis morning I read service in front of my tent, and was glad to see a nnm- ber jjresent. This evening, before sundown, I ascended, witli Messrs. Jaglello and McCarthA', tlie liigh peak to the northeast of our camp, for the purpose of viewing the surrounding country. The peak is probably al)out 1,500 feet above our camp. After some very considerable exertion, which, immediately after dinner, I found not so very easy, we attained the summit. On every hand could be seen high mountains; to tlie northeast, some GO miles off, the Humboldt range; to the east the We-a-bali range we crossed, on the lOtli; to the south, some isolated mountains, and to the west several ranges, the most distant ones covered with snow, and ranging apparently north and south. This Kobah Valley is the most extensive one we have seen, and, like the Great Salt Lake Desert, seems once to have been a lake. It seems to be filled with mount- ains, more or less extended, and running in a variety of directions, though generally north and south, and the valley extends around the points of these mountains, and, in some instances, runs oft" to an indefinite distance. )Streams run from the sides of the mountains, toward the valleys, but siidv in the alluvion at their base. They are gen- erally grassed, particularly up in the canons or raAanes. May 23, Camp No. 19, She-o-ivi-te, or WiUow Creek. — Morning cloudy and lower- ing. Thermometer at 5.30 a. m., 49°. The guide reports two passes, one north of west, and the other west of south. Neither is in the most direct line of approach to our ultimate point, but the latter is much the nearer of the two, and therefore we take it, bearing off, however, still more southwardly in order to certainly reach water within a reasonable distance. (We found, however, the next day that we could have taken a more direct course, (southwest,) as laid down on the map, and have saved about 10 miles. "Wagons should take this latter course, which they will find practicable.) Eight miles from camjj ran a short distance parallel to a small stream, which sinks. Willows along it. Grass scant and alkaline. About 4 miles farther cross a wash or creek running southeast, the bed of which is 12 feet wide, and Avhich at times must void a great deal of water, though at present it only exists in pools. Bunch-grass along it, but too alkaline for use. Two miles farther, pass, on our right, about a mile off, a mound, in which are some warm springs, one of them so warm as scarcely to ad- mit the hand. The mound is the product of the springs, and is a calcareous tufa. Three and a half miles more brought us to a small spring, which I call after Private Shelton, of the dragoons, who found it, and who, besides being a soldier in appearance, is no less so in the thorough manner in which he executes the orders which are given him. No grass of any account about the spring, and not a sufficient quantity of water for the animals. They are consequently driven about 1.5 miles to the mountain slopes. Day's travel, 17.5 miles. Road good. Soil argillaceous and covered with sage and greasewood. In cleaning out the spring, where we have encamped, the bones of a human being were found far-gone in decomposition. This is corroborative of the statement of my guide, last fall, that the Indians of this region bury their dead frequently in springs. It may be imagined that those who had drunk of the water did not feel very comfort- able after the discovery. Fortunately for my mess the cook had used the water from the kegs which had been filled at the last camp. We were thus freed from the con- 10 BU 74 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. seiousness of having- done an unpleasant thing. [On iny return route, we found numer- ous springs in this valley to the north of, and not far from, our present camp.) Two more men on sick-list. All imi)roving-, except Clarke. 3Iay 24, Canqj No. 20, ShcUon's Spring. — Altitude above the sea, 5,993 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 41°. Pete came in this morning, having traveled all night to pilot us to the next camping-place. In consequence of onv having made a longer march yesterday than the guide thought we should, our to-day's travel will be only about 7 miles. Our coiirse lay south of west, through a pass at the foot of Antelojje Mountain, and continues over the foot-hills on the north side of the same, to a rixsli- ing stream, 3 feet wide and 1 deep, where, at 9.15 a. m., among the foot-hills, we encamp, in good grass and abundant cedar timber. This stream, which the Diggers call Wonst-in-dam-me (Antelope) Creek, coming from a high moiintain, is doubtless constant, and, indeed, the Indians so represent it. The mountain from which it flows is magniticently serrated, and can well be distinguished by this peculiarity and its many cones. Several other streams course down its sides and sink in the valley after running a mile or two. Abundant grass can be found along the streams liig'h uj) and on the cafion. These mountains are of a different kind from those we have crossed since leaving Short-Cut Pass. The latter have been mostly of a sedimentary character, tilted as far as the We-a-bah range, generally to the west. Since then they have tilted toward the east. These rocks have in many instances been altered by heat, but not suffi- ciently so to come strictly under the classification of metamorphic rocks. Those we have passed through to-day, however, are decidedly igneous, thoiigh stratified rocks, some of them semifused and metamorphosed, have also been seen. To-day on the route passes could be seen in the mountain-range to the east of us, which may be useful on our return. Colonel Cooper's Peak, on account of its cone- like shape and isolated position, has been all day a very conspicuous object. Journey 7 miles. Eoad hilly, but good. Some beautiful cacti, of hemispherical shape and covered with buds, seen to-day. Another man reported sick. The weather for the past two days has been very bracing, and the eftects of it are an alacrity in the men to their work, a general hilarity of conversation, and sports of different kinds in camp. This morning, after reaching camp, my assistants and myself have been practicing with the lasso or lariat. The Mexican herders with us and Indian Pete are so expert at it and useful in capturing two or three of oiir mules, which could not be otherwise caught, as to make lis feel the value of the accom- plishment. In this country, where the bunch-grass prevails, the animals of a train should never be picketed, but be allowed to rove freely for grass, under the guidance and control of the herders. All of our animals are free fi-om halters or lariats, and in the morning, when they are driven into camp, the teamsters have no difticulty in catching each his own mules. If you have wagons enough, however, it saves time to drive them into a corral made of them and connecting-i-opes. Our little camp, made up of four wall-tents, tlii-ee Sibley's, and three common tents, with our twelve covered wagons and two spring or instrument wagons, with all the appurtenances of living men and animals, constitute quite a picturesque scene. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 75 May 25, Camp No. 21, Wons-hi-dum-mc, or Antelope, Creek. — Altitude above tlie sea, fi,595 feet. Longitude, 11G° 39' 12"; latitude, 30° 29' 13". Tliermometer at 4.J a. iii., 22°. Ice in the buckets this morning. Sky clear and bright. Course wcstwardly, over a shoot or branch of Kobah Valley. In 4.3 miles cross Saw-wid Creek, a rapid stream, 3 feet Avide and 1 deep, wliich comes from the Antelope ]\[ountains, on our left, and sinks 500 yai-ds below our crossing. Fine grass upon it toward the mountains. This branch of Kobah Valley, partially shut in at the soutli by a low range 8 miles off, but shows passes to the southwest and also to the southeast. Colonel Cooper's Peak still conspicuous. Many signs of sage-hen and antelope in this valley. A lierd of the latter seen. At 12 m. reach foot of range, on west side of valley, after a journey of 13.7 miles, and encamp on a small creek, wliich I call Clarke's Creek, after John Clarke, one of the men, and upon which, and in tlie cafions higher up in the mount- ains, is plenty of grass. Road good, except the difficulty of breaking doAvn the stubby sage-bush. The sage we have daily to break through with our wagons ranges from 3 to 8 inches at butt. It can be seen from this that the constant recurrence of this kind of hinderance in the aggregate amounts to a great deal. Soil argillaceous. Ar- temisia the characteristic. Altitude of Kobah Valley above the sea, 6,210 feet. The mountain-range immediately to our west is called by the Indians tlie Fali- rc-ah, or Water Mountain, on account of the many streams which flow down its sides into Kobah Valley, and on them is to be seen an abundance of grass. As I have Ijefore remarked, this stream, or one to the north of it, can and ought to be struck directly by Avagons from Camp No. 19, and thus some 10 miles saved. (See map.) Some fifteen or tAventy Diggers have come into camp. From these I have been enabled to get the names of some of the mountains and streams. They are the most liA^ely, jocose Indians I ha\^e seen. Say two rats make a meal. Like rabbits better than rats, and antelope better than either, but cannot get the latter. HaA^e no guns ; use bow and arrow. They occasionally amuse us A'ery much in their attempts to ride our mules, which are, liOAA'ever, so much frightened at their rabbit-skin dress as to cause them to run oti' Avitli them. One of them from this cause caught to-day a tumble. I have Avorn my great-coat all the morning, and at times found it not Avarm enough. The guide returned at 2 o'clock, and reports a good camp 15 to 18 miles ahead of us, at the east foot of the second rang-e to the Avest of us. il/rt/y 2(5, Camp Xo. 22. — Altitude above the sea, 6,373 feet. LTp to this morning fifteen persons, nearly one-fourth of the command, have reported sick. A portion, Iioaa^- ever, have been returned to duty. Morning fine, but cool. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 29°. Night sensibly colder than any Ave have had, caused, doubtless, by the vicinity of the snoAV mountains, the Pe-er-re-ah range, to the west of us. Our morning departure very exhilarating. The crack of the Avhip, the "gee ! get up!" of the teamsters, the merry laugh, the sudden shout from the exuberance of spirits, the clinking of armor, the long array of civil, military, and economic personnel, in due order, moving Avith hope to our destined end, coupled with the bright, bracing morning, and, at times, twittering of birds, make our morning departure from camp very pleasing. Skirt the foot of the Pah-re-ah Mountains ; course, southwardly ; the pass imme- 76 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. diately back or west of camp, Avhich would shorten the route consideraljly, not being practicable for wagons, though pack-animals can use it. In 2 miles commence turning gradually westward, and in 2 miles farther, up an easy wagon-grade, reach summit of pass. Altitude above the sea, 6,440 feet. From this pass the Pe-er-re-ah (meaning Big or High) Mountain aj^pears directly before us, some 12 miles off, trending north and south. These mountains in solidity put you in mind of the Hum- boldt Mountains. They have been conspicuous for several days back. The road doAvn the west side of the Pah-re-ah range is earned on the ridge of the spiu", which furnishes a passable grade, though that down the caiion is not bad, and is entirely practicable for wagons without work, though a little sidling-. The first rattlesnake I have seen on the route I passed A\'ithin a foot or two of my horse. The taxidermist, Mr. McCarthy, secured him Avith his tingers bj^ the neck, nuich to the astonishment of the men near. After reaching, in 7 miles from summit of pass, the valley called Won-a-ho- nupe, we turned northwest diagonally across it to the pass, through the Pe-er-re-ah Mountains. In 10 miles from summit of pass, through the Pah-re-ah range, we came to a rapid creek (Won-a-ho-nupe), 8 or 10 feet wide, li dee}), and running southwardly between steep sand-banks, 15 feet high. In 4 miles more cross this stream at mouth of canon, and encamp one-fourth of a mile above on the stream, in good grass and whei-e cedar abounds. Journey, 18.2 miles. Road generally to-day very good ; over the Pah-re-ah range a large portion of it rocky from the loose igneous rocks scattered over the ground. Notice ranging along the AA'est slope of the Pah-re-ah range a number of columns of stone, doubtless put by tlie Indians as landmarks to guide them over this trackless region. Won-a-ho-nupe Valley is fi'om 9 to 12 miles Avide. >Soil areno-argillaceous, and is very thinl}'' covered yvith arteniitiid. At the south it appears miinterrupted ; at the north is closed by a low range, a few miles above Avhere we enter the pass of the Pe- er-re-ah range, admitting, hoAvever, a road of easy grade into the next valley. Altitude of valley above, the sea, 5,443 feet. A number of antelope seen. Notice under a cedar near our camp a very large willoAV basket of conical shape, which would contain probably a bushel and a half Concealed under the same cedar were a number of rolls of willoAv peeling nicely tied together ; also faggots or bundles of peeled AvilloAv — the stock in trade of some indus trious Digger. Directed they should not be disturbed. 3Iai/ 27, C((m2) No. 23, Won-a-ho-nupe Canon. — Altitude above the sea, 5,870 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 37°. One herder reported sick. This makes sixteen on sick- list from commencement. The bugle having become bent, and therefore not servicea- ble, reveille not as prompt as usual. Morning bright. Leave at 6.10 a. m. Course westwardly up the caiion. This canon quite lu.xuriant Avitli AvilloAV and grass, the latter appearing in places qxiite green. The Eplmlra 2)€(hnici(hita also begins to be quite common. The stream in the canon is quite pure, and I think there nnist be trout in it. The road is winding through the canon, but of easy grade, the only bad places being the frequent crossings of the creek, Avhich occasionally are somewhat boggy. At these places, and on some short ascents and descents, the men have been required to KEPOET AND JOURNAL, 77 do some excavation and cmbaiikniont. At 11 o'clock, after a jonrney of 4.9 miles, we come to a small lake and the canon expands into a sort of park a])oiit 4 by 3 miles in area. The landscape here quite jiretty and very unique for this country. After j;-ivino- orders to go into camp upon this lake, I continued up the main stream expect- ing in about a mile to reach the summit. After riding 7 miles I had not reached the source of the stream, and the indications were that it came from a snow peak ahead, which was still quite 5 miles off. This stream comes from northwest by Avest magnetic- all}', and is quite rapid, and continued quite copious as far as I went up it. There is a great deal of meadow along it, and bunch-grass on the sides of the mountains ; the grade, as far as I went, was easy. It leading me, however, too far north, I returned to camp with the hope of a more direct pass being found more westwardly. An old Digger has visited our camp and represents that we are the first white persons he has ever seen. He says there is a large number of Indians living around, but they had run away from fear of us. I asked him Avhy he had not been afraid. He said he Avas so old that it was of no consequence if he did die. I told him to say to them that we would be always glad to see them, and whenever they saw white men always to approach them in a friendly way, and they Avould not be hurt. He has been around eating at the different messes, and at length had so gorged himself as to be unable to eat more until he had disgorged, when he went around again to renew the pleasure. I showed him my Avatch, the works of which he looked upon with a great deal of wonder. He said he would believe what I told him about the magnetic telegraph the next time he Avas told it. He is at least sixty years old, and says he never had a chief. I asked him if his country Avas a good one. He said it was. He liked it a good deal better than any other. I asked him AAdiy, Because, he said, it had a great many rats. I asked him if they ever quarreled al:)out their rat comitry. He said they did. So it would appear that civilized nations are not the only people who go to Avar about their domains. The guide and party left us this morning, and are to be absent tAvo or thi'ee daA's in researches ahead. Pete returned this evening from this party and rei)orts our jiass to-morroAV to be the one directly Avest from camp, as I had concluded from this after- noon's reconnaissance. The lake we are on is several acres in extent. Ducks frequent it. The "rass about it and along the creek is quite luxuriant, and expands in places into meadoAvs of considerable area. Cedar is found on the heights. Should it ever become necessary to establish a post, say near the east entrance of Won-a-ho-nupe Canon, the grass, Avater, and timber of this mountain-range would be amply sufficient, and fine granite building-stone could be found in the canon The party has given my name to this lake, park, and pass ; and also to the creek, but as it has been my rule to preserve the Indian names, Avlienever I can ascertain them, and Won-a-ho-nupe is the name of the creek, I shall continue so to call it. For the past tAvo days the ground has been so resplendent Avith flakes of mica of a golden hue as to constantly remind you hoAV rich it aa^ouUI be in gold were the shin- ing particles veritably such. Mai/ 28, Cam}) No. 24, Si)ii2)soii''.'i Park, Pe-cr-rc-ah raii(/e. — Longitude, 116° 49'; lat- 78 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. itude, 39° 30' 32". Altitude iil)Ove the sea, G,355 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 30°. Morning somewhat cdoiidy. Renewed journey at 10 minutes to 6 a. m. Leave valley of Won-a-ho-nupe Creek and strike west for Simpson's Pass, which we reach by a very easy ascent in 4.7 miles; altitude above the sea, 7,104 feet. The grass in the pass very abundant and of the finest character. Tliis fine mountain bunch-grass fattens and strengthens oiu' animals like oats. The jrass at sunnnit is as miich as a mile wide, and both backward and forward the views are beautiful. The mountains near our camp of May 25 ai'e seen very conspicuously back of us; and ahead of us, limiting Reese Valley, which we are ai)proaching, is a low range trending generally north and south, and beyond them a very high range covered with snow, called by the Indians the Se-day-e or Lookout Mountains. The Pe-er-re-ah Mountains, which we ai-e now about to leave, are composed, iip Won-a-ho-iuipe Canon, of quartzite, altered slates, and granite rocks ; and near Simpson's Park the n^c-ks are highly metani<)rj)hosed, semifused and stratified. At the pass they are granitic. Descending from the sunnnit of Simpson's Pass, west side, by not a very steep but sandy grade, and along a short sidling place, near foot of ravine, (which our wagons passed by use of ropes to u})per side, but which will require some slight side- excavatioii when the route is inqn'oved,) in 2.8 miles reach Reese Valley, Avhich, in 3.7 miles more, Ave traverse to Reese River; this we cross by ford, and in 2.6 miles more i\\) the river, or southwardly, reach our camping ground. Fuel should Ije brought. Day's travel, 13.8 miles. Road generally good. The ravine on west side of Sinq)son's Pass is filled with a thorn-bush in full bloom, 2 to 3 feet high ; blossoms like those of the cmb-apple. The valley in which we are encamped, as well as its creek, I call after Mr. Reese, our guide, who, with two other men, discovered it sonie years since in their jieregrinations between Salt Lake City and Carson Valley. They gave it the name of New River; but as Mr. Reese has been of considerable service, and discovers very laudable zeal in examining the coimtry ahead in our explorations, I have thought it is but just to call the river and valley after him. The Indian name of the river is Pang-qvie-o-whojj-pe, or Fish Creek. Mr. Reese is now, for the first time, on ground he has been once over, but confesses it has been so long ago it does not appear familiar to him. Reese River is 10 feet wide, 1^- deep; current moderate; water good, though of a slight milky color from sediment ; runs northwardly, and is the largest stream we have seen this side of the Jordan. Trout weighing- 2i pounds are found in it. The grass along it is luxuriant, but in many places alkaline. It is best and very abundant farther up the stream, and extends as far as the eye can reach. Reese Valley is from 10 to 15 miles wide; at the north appears uninterrupted; at the south seems to be bounded by a range of mountains 30 miles off. Next to Si»ring Valley, it is the whitest with alkaline efflorescence we have seen. Soil argillo- arenaceoiis and covered with the wild sage and greasewood. It is quite well watered, and several streams well grassed can be seen tending to it from the west slope of the Pe-er-re-ah range. Altitude above the sea, by barometric measurement, 5,530 feet. Sanchez returned from guide's party this afternoon, and reports next camp about 22.5 miles off. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 79 May 29, Cami) No. 25, Ilecsc Jlirci: — Altitude ,'il)(>ve tlie sea, 5,5G3 feet. Magnetic variation, lfi° 10' E. Tliennonieter at 4.,^)0 a. ni., 22°. f). Intended spending the Sab- batli here, but the grass not Ijeing of the best kind, think it jjest to move. Moniiug lovely, though cool. Tlie nniles more and more diflicult t<» catch iij) ; attribute it to the improved condition, caused by the nutritious properties of the mountain bunch- grass. Moved at 5 minutes to (i a. m. Course sonthwestwardly, to a dejiression or pass of the low range bounding Iveese Valley on its west side, which we reach by an easy grade in 13.5 miles. Altitude al)ove the sea, G,483 feet. This pass is remarkable on account of the iguieous, reddish rocks about it, several of them appearing in the form of peaks, domes, and knobs. These are semifused, stratified, and porphyritic rocks. Notice a very small spring- to the left of the road, just before reaching summit. The recent foot-prints of Indians leading to it sIioav that they cannot be far from us. The water is doubtless not constant. From simimit of })ass see another valley to the west of us, ranging generally north and south, and bounded by the Se-day-e or Lookout range, on its Avest side In 2 miles from sumniit reach west foot of pass in valley by a tolerable descent, and without difficulty. This valley is exceedingly forbidding in appearance. To the south the bottom is an extended clay flat, perfectly divested of vegetation, terminating toward the south in a small lake. In the distance it all looked so much like a sheet of water that I sent a dragoon aliead to examine it ; but, with my spy-glass, seeing lum gallop over it, I concluded it was passable ; so gave the word forward. I struck magnetically S. 60° W., to the green spot across the valley Sanchez pointed out as our camp-ground, and on going to it passed over a portion of the clay flat referred to. In its checkered and smooth state it put me in mind of a polished tesselated floor. Clouds of dust, like smoke, could be seen eddying over it in different directions. In 5.8 miles from foot of pass, at 3ip. m., after a journey of 21.2 miles, come to a creek, where we encamp in tolerable grass. The creek is 5 feet wide, 2 deep, and, running with considel-able rapidity, spreads out in many rills, and sinks in the lake refeiTed to. Abundant grass can be found at the mouth of the canon of this stream. Both the stream and canon I call after my assistant, Lieut. J. L. Kirby Smith. This valley, which I call after Capt. I. C. Woodruff", Corj)s Toi)ographical Engi- neers, is 10 to 15 miles wide, and closed partially at the north by a pretty high mountain, some 12 miles off', and at the south by a range which seems to admit of egress at the southeast and also the southwest angle. . Its altitvule above the sea is 6,000 feet. Road to-day in lieese Valley, for 2 miles from camp, heavy ; remainder good, except a little rough going down from the pass in the valley, on account of some gullies. A couple of wolves noticed in the vicinity of camp, the first we have seen. May 30, Caiiii) No. 26, Si)iif]is Creel; Woodruff Valley. — Elevation above the sea, 5,960 feet. Thermometer at sunrise, 35°. Our guide told Sanchez before leaving him day before yesterday that he would meet us at this camp last evening. This he has not done ; and as he is alone, contrary to my orders, which require him always to come in with the last man of his party, I am not gratified, though doubtless his zeal has led him to this nnauthorized venture. We have therefore remained in camp to-day 80 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. on liis account. Meantime I sent out Pete, Payte, and Sanchez to examine the pass directly to our west, itp Smith's Creek, and they have returned and report it impracti- cable for wagons without a great deal of bridging and other work. (The diary of my return route will show, however, that on our return we got through this pass without any great difficulty ; and tliough some work is necessary to make the road through it what it should be, }'et in grade it was fiir better, though 4 miles farther, than by the way of the pass to the south of it, which we took in our outward route.) Payte and party report they saw Diggers in the mountains to the west of us to-day, but that they fled as soon as they were perceived. They found one little fellow, about four years of age, hid behind a sage-bush, but as soon as their backs were turned the yoiuigster put off as fiist as his legs would carry him. On our return we ascertained that the Pe-er-re-ah range, which Ave crossed on the 28th, is the boundary between the Sho-sho-nee Diggers (or what has been called, as I think erroneously, the Pah-utes) and the Pi-utes, as the Un-go-Ave-ah i-ange seems to be the boundary between the Sho-sho-nee Diggers and the Go-shoots. Why the Pah-iites should have been thus called I am at a loss to comprehend, for their lan- guage is Sho-sho-nee, and not Ute, and, therefore, they are more certainly a people derived from, or cognate Avith, that tribe than the Ute. I also notice that the Pi-utes and Pah-utes are designated on the maps as one and the same people. This is also a mistake, and doubtless has arisen from similarity of their names. They are all, how- ever, more or less Diggers; that is, they live on roots, rats, lizards, insects, grass- seeds, &c. Maij 31, Camp No. 2(i, Sm'dlis Creek — Thermometer at 5.20 a. m., 29^. Mr. Reese, ■ the guide, not returning last night, I have thought it expedient to send out Payte to explore to the south and west, giving him special instructions in the premises, so that in case any accident may haA'e happened to Mr. Reese Ave may at once move forward to his rescue. Pete and Sanchez and tAvo dragoons accompany him. He is to keep me advi^d daily of the proper places to encamp ahead. The party take three days' pro- visions. One of the party returned at 1 o'clock, and reported grass and Avater 10 miles ahead, in a southAvest direction, and a pass near, Avhich looked favorably for crossing the Se-day-e range. June 1, Camji No. 26, Sm'/tJis Creel: — Thermometer at 5.25 a.m., 30^. Mr. Reese has not yet made his appearance. I feel quite anxious about him, as he is entirely alone. He has hitherto been very promjjt in fulfilling his engagements, riding some- times late at night, and, on oue occasion, all night, to effect it. I therefore liaA^e sent out Mr. McCarthy and two dragoons to track him, and at the same time liaA'e ordered the whole party forward to the water and grass reported yesterday. This is in the direction in Avliich he told Sanchez he woiild cross the next, or Se-day-e, ]\Iountain. Just after commencing the march, I noticed a])parently an old, decrepit-looking man approaching the train from the Avest side, and supporting himself by a couple of crutches or sticks. At first I took him for a Digger Indian. On more close scrutiny, however, I found it to be Mr. Reese, our guide, who, as soon as Ave reached him, sank down exhausted into a sage-bush. His clothes Avere nearly torn off him, and 'altogether he presented a most pitiable aspect. As soon as he could collect his mind he infoniied KEPORT AND JOURNAL. 81 lis that the day before yestenhiy, wlieii on tlie other or A^est side of tlie Se-day-e Mountains, about 17 niik^s oft", his ninle gave out, and that he has ever since been on foot, trudg-ing- over tlie mountains to hnd us. lie had no clothing except? what he had on his back, and as he had lost his matches lie could make no iire, though the night was quite cold. Pie had lost his haversack of iinn-isions, and the consequence was that lie had had nothing to eat. Some Digger Indians he met kindly offered him three fat rats, but as they had been roasted with entrails and offiil unremoved, he said he did not feel hungry enough to accept their generous hospitality. We Avere exceedingly glad to see him, and had him supplied with something to eat, after which he went to sleep in one of the wagons. Finding him safe, I sent a dragoon to notify ]Mr. ]\Ic(-*arthy and i>arty of the fact, and direct their return. Our course to-day has been magnetically S. 25° W., between the base of the Se-day-e range on our right and the clay flat and small lake of Woodruff Valley on 6ur left. In l.G miles from camp cross a fine rapid stream, 5 feet wide, 2 deep, bottom somewhat soft, which I called after Sir. Engelmann, the geologist of my party. It expends itself in the lake. Two and a half miles farther cross another small stream i-unning in, the same direction, and after a day's march of 10.2 miles come to a swift creek running east from the mountains, which I call after Lieutenant Putnam, Topo- graphical Engineers, one of my assistants. It is 6 feet wide, 2 deep, and of gravelly bottom. After running 5 or 6 miles it expends itself in the small lake before referred to. Willows line it. Soil of Woodruff" Valley argillaceous, benches gravell}'. The ariemisia the characteristic. Cedars cover the mountains near. Payte with party returned to camp just after we had pitched our tents, and re}iorts a pass 10 miles south of this, which he thinks, without considerable work, impracticable, and says it looks very steep on the other side. There is, however, a practicalile pass 20 miles south of us, but as after we get through it, according to him, we will have to go 20 miles more befoi'e we can get water, I have determined to go and look myself for a pass, Lieutenant Muny, Mr. Jagiello, Payte, and Pete accompanying me. ' 8.30 o'doch 2^- '"■ — Just returned from a reconnaissance of a pass, the foot of which is 2 miles southwest from camp. Started from camp at 2.30, returned at 8.30, just after tattoo; distance traveled aboiit 24 miles. Found the pass on the east side of the mountain quite steep, and that on the west side quite rough, on account of the rocks and of the stream which passes down it. Think, however, it practicable, with some labor, and shall therefore attempt it to-morrow. Lieutenant Putnam reports the canon of Putnam's Creek, north of west from camp, for 2.^ miles so narrow as to make it perfectly impracticable for wagons without a great deal of excavation, revetting, and blasting-. June 2, Camp No. 27, rittnam's Crec^-.— Longitude, 117° 27' 34": latitude, 39° 14' 13". Elevation above the sea, 6,325 feet. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 48°. Moved at 5 minutes of 6 a. m. Course southwestwardly to the base of the Se-day-e Mountain, and then generally w^estwardly through what I call the Gibraltar (or south) Pass, exam- ined ])y me yesterday. The teams reached summit of pass, 5 miles from last camp, at 10 o'clock, without doubling. The only exceedingly steep place is about tlu*ee-fourtlis of a mile up, whei'e the ravine is left and a minor ridge surmounted to get over into 11 BU 82 EXPLOllATIONS AGllOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the south branch of Putnam's Creek. The ascent of this minor ridg-e is steej), and the descent on the west side still more so. To accomplish the latter -without accident we had to lock and rong'h-shoe the wheels. A good grade is possible, with the lal)or ot some twenty men one day, on left side of track. Two and one-half miles thence up Putnam's Creek by a good grade brought us to sunnnit of pass, 7,741 feet above the sea, and 3.7 miles more down Gibraltar Creek (a small stream) to a point in the canon, where, at half past 4, we encamped. The road on the west side of the pass is very rough, on account of its frecpient crossings of Gibraltar Creek and large, loose rocks scattered around, but by bridging the creek and removing the rocks — no very great work — it could be made good. Met with two upsets, and the breaking of a wagon- tongue, hound, and coupling in this canon. ( )n right of canon, descending from summit, some stupendous granitic and por- })h}ritic rocks, probably 500 feet above the valley, are noticeable. Joimiey 8.7 miles. I continued 7 miles farther down the canon to examine it, returning about 9 o'clock p. m., and finding the command mieasy about me, as I was alone. The guide, Mr. Reese, found his mule where he had left him the other day, saddle and everything safe. Tlie canons of this mountain abound in pure water and splendid grass. The mountain-mahogany is also seen. Cedar and pines are also found, as they have been in nearly]every range since we left the Great Salt Lake Desert. These cedars branch innnediately from the groixnd, are 12 or 15 feet high, and present in the mass a rotund form. The pines are generally on the summits of the ridges, and are generally not more than 25 or 30 feet, though some attain a heiglit of 50. The rocks of the Se-day-e Mountain ai-e porphyritic and trachytic, also semifused stratified rocks. West of summit they are white granite, lower down red and brown [xirphyritic rocks. Jniic 3, Camj) No. 28, Gibraltar Creel: — Thermometer at 5.10 a. m., 48°. Morning pleasantly cool, and as usual clear. Mr. Ecese, with Pete, Sanchez, and two di'agoon?, left this morning to be absent for several days, probably four or five, to examine the countr}" in advance, and keep me advised daily of route and camping-places. Raised camp at G.15, and continued down Gibraltar Canon. For about a mile it contimied rough from isolated rocks; after this no ditficulty. Creek sinks 1.7 miles below camp. Five and a half miles farther strike a small creek and a spring, which might be called an extension or re-appeai-ance of Gibraltar Creek, though strictly it is a continuation of its more northern branch, which comes in from the mountain at this point. Half a mile farther pass through a gap or gate between some stupendous rocks of a dark- gray and brown porphyritic character, which form a range of narrow breadth per- ])eiulicular to our course. This defile from the canon to the valley I call the Gate of Gibraltar. It is about 50 yards wide, and of champaign character. From this gate, following the coiu-se of Gibraltar Creek (very small) in a southwest direction, we cross in 7.2 miles a valley or plain, and arrive at a second gate or gap in a low range, run- ning north and south, where, at 4 p. m., we encamp near the sink of Gibraltar Creek. A linnted amoimt of grass is found at the gap ; more in vicinity on west side. Tlie mountain range which crosses here is perfectly devoid of timber. Road to-day rough, the first 2 miles down Gibraltar Canon, and subsequently somewhat soft on account of KEPORT AND JOURNAL. 83 the pulverulent character of tlie soil of the valley to the west of the Se-day-e raiij-o. Tliis valley, along the route, is quite a desert one, scattering greasewood and the wild sage being the princi^ml groAvth. On reaching oiir caniping-p!ace, whicli I call the Middle Gate, saw a naked Indiiin stretched out on the rocks at an angle of about 20 degrees. He was so nnich of the color of the rocks as to escape our notice for some time. On being aroused he looked a little astonished to see so many armed men about him, but soon felt assured of safety by their kind treatment. He seemed particularly pleased when he saw the long string of wagons coming in, and laughed outriglit for joy. I counted twenty-seven rats and one lizard lying about him, which he had killed for food. He had with him his appli- ances for making fire. They consisted simply of a piece of hard greasewood, about 2 feet long, and of the size or smaller than your little finger in cross-section. This was rounded at the but. Then a second ilat piece of the same kind of wood, 6 inches long by 1 broad and i thick. This second piece had a nmnber of semi-spherical caAities on one of its faces. With this piece laid on the ground, the cavities uppermost, he placed the other stick between the palms of his hands, and witli one end of the latter in a cavity, and holding the stick in a vertical position, he would roll it rapidly forward and back, till the friction Avould cause the tinder, which he had placed against the foot of the stick in the cavity, to ignite. In this way I saw him produce fire in a few seconds. After sundown a Pi-ute Indian, the first we have met, came into camp, habited in a new hickory (coarse check) shirt, doubtless of tlie stock I gave the guide this morning, as presents to the Indians for information and guidance to water and grass. The shirt is most probably the credentials of his office as guide to us to-morrow, besides, his gestures (Pete is away and we therefore cannot talk to him) seem to indicate the same thing. In addition, the guide has sent ho dragoon Ijack, as directed, and this seems to confirm our suspicions that he has been sent to us as a guide. Dr Baily reports only one person on the sick-list, Mr. Jagiello. Tlie day has been op- pressively hot, and e\erything indicates that, from the Se-day-e range, we have descended to a lower level of altitude than we have experienced at any time along the route. The mountains, too, appear lower, and are entirely free from snow ; the gen- eral face of the country is very arid and forbidding. The men had hard A^ork to pitch our tents on account of the high Avind and dust. June 4, Camp No. 2;(, Middle Guie. — Elevation alxive the sea, 4,G65 feet. For the first time it was so Avann last m'glit that I slept under a single comforter. Heretofore I could scarce^A" make nu^self Avarm enough Avith all the bed-clothing I could muster- Thermometer at 5 a. m., 38°. Morning clear and pleasant. ]\Ioved at fi. Our ncAv Indian guide cut an amusing figure in attempting to mount his mule. He rides by clinging to the pommel of the saddle. Immediately after passing through Middle Gate, strike soiithwestwardly over a pulverulent prairie to a third gate, Avhich we reach in 3 J miles, and Avhich I call the West Gate. It is also a gap in a Ioav range of mountains running north and soutli. After threading this defile, pass over another thirstA'-looking, marly prairie, surrounded by low, ashy-looking mountains, Avith passes l)etAveen. In 5 miles get across this valley, and attain summit of a Ioav ridge, Avhence Ave descend to another shallow valley, altitude above the sea 4,090 feet, Avhich I call 8-1 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Dry Flat Valley, on account of the wliitisli clay flat we cross, and wliicli is as smooth and as hard as a floor. Indeed, the glare from it was almost blinding. Twenty miles from camp we attain the summit of the range dividing Dry from a valley I caU Alkaline Valley, on account of its general whitish Mkaline appearance from saline efflorescence. Descending this ridge 1.7 miles, and turning northwardly and skirting it for 2.7 miles, Ave come to our camp-ground, where the guide party, which is in advance of us, has dug a nmnber of small wells. The water is found in an efflorescent sand-flat, and lies 3 feet below the surface. In some of the holes it is strongly alkaline ; in others just tolerable. The addition of vinegar improves it very much. It is, however, difficult to keep up a supi)]y ot water on account of the sand tumbling in. The grass in the vicinity is very alkaline and scant, and altogether this is a miserable camping-place, the -worst we have had. Fuel, rabbit-bush, a miserable substitute for the sage or greasewood. The wagons reached camp at half past 4. Journey, 24.5 miles, lload pretty good. Country very arid and desert. Mountains in the distance ])erfectly devoid of timljer, and of a thirsty, ashy hue, except the last range we crossed, Avhich is of a dark-brown appearance, approaching black, and therefore called Black Mountains. The rocks at our morning's camp, l\Iiddle Gate, are porphyritic; westward of these as far as the Ulack Mountains, first quartzite, and then highly altered stratified rock, siliceous lime- stones, slates, dolomite. The Black Jlountains are made up of partly strongly-meta- niorphosedst, ratified rocks and partly igneous and scoria ceous, lava-like rocks traversed by quartz-veins. . The day has been very hot, and we have all felt very thirsty; not knowing when we started tliat water Avould be so far off", we had not taken the precaution Avhich Ave should have done to have our Avater-kegs filled at Gibraltar Ganon. Our great thirst over these desert plains is no doubt oAving to the dry condition of the atmosphere, which favors the rapid dessication or drying up of the humors of the body. On tlie route, one of the dragoons returned from the guide's party Avith a note froni Mr. Reese, informing me of the locality of to-night's camp, and giAing the luipalatable ncAvs that the Avater Avas not good, the grass poor, and that Ave Avere Avithin 12 miles of the north end of Walker's Lake, Avhere Ave Avould encamp to-morroAv- The consequence is, that as the point I have been aiming at is the north bend of Walker's River, and not the Lake, Ave are a great deal too far to the south, and nuist therefore make the necessary corresponding northing. Tliis error could only have occurred on the supposition of Walker's Lake being Avrongly placed on the Topo- graphical Bureau map, for I feel confident that the latitudes Avhich I have Avorked out, and upon Avhicli Ave have based our southing, have been correct. If Mr. Reese had not assured me that he had been over this portion of the countty before, I should doubt the truth of his representations; but, relying on the accuracy of his observations, Ave are obliged to change our course from our present camp in a northwest direction in order to reach in the most direct Avay the north bend of AValker's River. June 5, Camp No. 30, Alkaline Vallcij. — Altitude above the sea, 3,900 feet. Ther- mometer at 3.30 a. m., 48°. Up at half past 3 a. m., but in consequence of mules straying off to get grass and water, the train did not move xuitil 5. Course north of EEPOHT AND JOURNAL. 85 west, along' west foot of Black Mountains, to tlie north end of what turned out to ho Carson instead of Walker's Lake. The guide, therefore, at fault, and neither the Xopogra])hical Bureau map nor my calculations wrong. As the map will indicate, it will be perceived that before I made the turn to the noi'thwest, pwrsuant to the repre- sentation of our whereabouts by our guide, my course Avas direct for the bend of Walker's River, the locality aimed at from the commencement of the expedition at Camp Floyd. The consequence is that we have lost about 12 miles b}' our guide's errors, and ^\\\l have to retrogade, for a distance, our steps. The road to-day has been along the east edge of Alkaline Valley, and the west foot of the Black Mountains. In the valley it has been heavy, and on the benches, on account of the basaltic rocks, rough. The valley, Avluch is almost everywhere white with saline incrustation, is about IG miles long and 8 broad, and in wet weather must cut up a great deal. The moimtains inclosing it are low, and give indications of passes in almost every direction. Not a sign of a tree is to be seen on any of them. The Sierra Nevada, seen for the first time to the west of us, some 60 or 70 miles off, is covered with snow. Journey, 16.6 miles. Tisanis got in at 12 meridian. 0 the luxurj' of good sweet water to a thoroughly thirsty traveler! How little do we value the daily common bounties of ProAidence ! For the past few days a di-aught of pure cold water has been prized at its true value ; and it is only the real absence of our comforts that causes us to estimate them at their full value. We are encamped at the head of the outlet from Carson Lake into the sink of Car- son, A\here our only fuel is dry rush. This outlet is about 50 feet wide and 3 or 4 feet deep, and voids the lake rapidly into its sink, which is some 10 or 15 miles to the north- east of lis. The water is of a rather Avhitish, milky cast, and though not very lively, is yet quite gooiL The Carson River to the northwest, where it empties into the lake, can be seen quite distinctly, marked out by its line of green cottonwoods. The name of the river and lake was given by Colonel Fremont, in conqjliment to Kit Carson, one of his celebrated guides. The alluvial bottom about Carson Lake is quite extensive and rich, as the luxuriant growth of rushes shows, and could, I think, be easily imgated. The only drawback to its being unexceptionable for cultivation in every part is its being somewhat alka- line in places, particularly toward its southern portion. Curlew, pelican, and ducks, and other aquatic birds frequent the locality, and the lake is filled with fish. A num- ber of Pi-utes, some two dozen, live near our camp, and I notice they have piles of fish lying about dr3'ing, principally chubs and mullet. They catch them with a seine. Their habitation consists of flimsy sheds, made of rushes, which screen them from the sun and wind. They present a better appearance than the Diggers we have seen, both in respect to clothing and features. Indeed, they act as if they had been in contact with civiliz;iiion, and had to some degree been improved by it. The decoy-ducks they use on the lake to attract the live ducks are perfect in fiirni and fabi-ic, and I have obtained a couple for the Smithsonian Institution. This valley of Carson Lake presents at simset a very pretty landscape. It lies very level, and on every side, at a considerable distance, with intervals between, are very pretty blue mountains lying along the horizon, giving variety to the picture. The 86 EXPLORATION'S ACKOS8 THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. air tliis afternoon lias been also very soft and Lalmy, having a tranqiiilizing effect on the senses and inducing one to drink in with delight what lies before him. Pete, whom I found at camp, and had sent out to bring in the rest of the guide's party, returned at G p. m., bringing with him the infantry soldier, Sanchez, and the pack-mule. He missed the track of Mr. Reese, who will be in to-night, probably, or to-morrow. The Pi-ute with the check shirt accompanied us all the way to our ])resent camp. In mounting his mule, he invariabh' would protrude his legs tlu'ough and between his arms while resting his hands on the saddle, and in one instance, in his attempt to mount in this way, awkwardly tumbled off on the other side. June 6, Camp No. 31, north cud of Carson Lake. — Longitude, 118° 30' 01"; latitude, 39° 23' 37"; altitude above the sea, 3,840 feet; thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 43^°. Mr. Reese returned during the night. The Indians in camji earh^ this morn- ing, Avith fish to barter in exchange for old clothing", powder, &c. Seem to be pretty keen in a trade about small things; but in larger matters — as, for instance, the barter of a child — one of the Indians said he would sell his, a lad of about 8 years of age, for a jackknife. They seem to be perfectly beside themselves at the idea of a train of wagons passing through their settlement. Nothing* of the kind has ever occurred before. They laugh and jabber like so many parrots, and it has been difficult to get any distinct notions from them about the country in advance of us. We retrograde to-day in our course, soiitherly direction, and skill the east shore of Carson Lake. Air balmy and throwing a blue veil over the near and distant mountains. The suoava' peaks of the Sierra Nevada seen on oiu* right ; the water of Carson Lake l)eautifully blue ; lake margined with rushes ; the shores are covered with muscle-shells ; pelicans and other acpiatic fowl a characteristic. Upper half, that is, north half, of east margin of Carson Lake very slightly alkaline. South half, east margin, white with alkali. Indeed, as I proceed I find that the margin of the lake generally, as far as I can see, looks alkaline. In 9.7 miles leave the lake at its southern end, and, passing over and through some sand-hills, in 5.7 miles come to a small spring of calcareous Avater, where there is no grass. Here there has been a luindier of these springs, and the locality for a very considerable area is nothing but calcareous tufa, formed by the springs, which are all closed but one. Three" miles more brought us through some heavy sand-drifts to a very small spring of miserable mineral-water, so nauseous as not to pennit me to take even a swalloAV. No grass in vicinity. After proceeding a few miles further, in consequence of the day being very warm and the sand-hills heavy, halted at 3 o'clock, and tm'ned out the animals to graze upon the little grass Avhich exists in bunches around. At 5 start again, and, still ascending to crest of dividing ridge between Walker's Lake Valley and Saleratus Valley, in 9.4 miles reach summit, 4,595 feet above the sea. Just before doing so. Lieutenant Murry sent Avord that some of the mules Avere giving out, and he Avas afraid ho Avould be obliged to halt. I sent Avord back to him to try and hold on till he could reach the summit, and after that there Avould be no dilficultA'. He managed, by exchanging some of the mules, to get the Avagons all up to the top of the divide, but it Avas midnight before AA^e reached WaUcer's River, 6.9 miles distant, and as the night Avas quite dark, Ave considered oiu'seh'es very REPORT AND JOURNAL. 87 fortunate that we got along- witliout accident. Some oi" the party were so t;i,i;'^c(l out on reaching- tlie camp-ground as to inunediately roll themselves in tlieir blankets ou the o-round and go to sleep. We iind ourselves on (lor this country) a noble river, but will have to aAvait daylight to disclose its features; perceive, however, we are amid good grass and tiud^er and have an abundance of water. Journey to-day a hard one. Country Avretchedly sandv and barren, moiuitainous or hilly. Distance, 31.2 miles. The guide has l)een a Pi-l'te Indian, hired at Carson J>ake. The formations along the route liaA'e been trachytic, scoriatic rocks and volcanic tufas. In the pass, just before attaining sununit of divide, noticed some hieroglyphics on detached bowlders. Jxne 7, Camp No. 32, Walkers B ire r. — Altitude above the sea, 4,072 feet; ther- mometer at 7.30 a. m., Gt)°. In consequence of getting- into camp so late last evening, and the teams requiring- rest, we lay over at this point till this afternoon. The river Ave are encamped on (Walker's) is the largest I have yet seen this side of Green River; is about one hundred yards Avide and from six to ten feet deep at its present stage, which seems to be high. It flows quite strongly tOAvard Walker's Lake, in which it sinks. Its color is very much like that of the IMissouri (a rather dirty yellow), and in taste is quite soft and palataltle. Its banks, AA'hich are vertical, are about four feet above the surface of the Avater. The name Walker, applied to this river and to the lake into Avhich it floAvs, first appears on Fremont's map of 1848, and was doubtless given by him in honor of j\[r. Josei)h Walker, the leader of the party sent by Colonel Bonne- ville, in 1835, to explore Great Salt Lake, and avIio subsequently, on his way to Mon- terey, Cal., passed by this river. Walker, after this, in 1845, was Fremont's guide along this same river and lake. I have sent Mr. Reese ahead Avith a few men to construct a raft to enable the party to cross Carson River when Ave shall reach it. After attending to this, he is to proceed on to Genoa and l)ring back our mail. Some Pi-Utes from Walker's Lake liaA^e come into camp to sell or trade salmon-trout, caught in the lake. The largest they baA-e weighs -about 20 pounds. These Indians talk a little English and dress, some of them, like A^•hite people. In condition they are superior to those Ave have seen. Raise camp at 3 p. m. Sun scorching hot. Course nortlnvestwardly along the left or north bank of the river, being forced occasionally by the river from the bottom to the sand-bench. River-bottom from one-fourth to one-half mile Avide. Soil, a dark loam, very rich. Grass quite abundant and of good quality. CottouAvoods (sparsely) and AvilloAvs (abundantly) fringe the riA-er. The riAcr-bottom could be readily and copi- ously irrigated and made very productive. A range of Ioav mountains run parallel to the river on north, and another also on south side, each about eight or ten miles distant. Not a tree or shrub is to be seen on them. The contrast between the per- fectly barren, sandy, thirsty-looking coimtry to be seen on every side and the valley of Walker's River, fringed Avith green cottouAvoods and Avilhnvs, Aery refreshing. After marching ten miles, at 7 o'clock encamped again on the river. Road good except on banks of valley, AAhere it Avas sandy. Pete came in from guide's party, and reports bend of Walker's River six miles ahead, where I expect to camp to-morrow. June 8, Camp No. 33, Walker's J^a-er.— Longitude, 118° 49' 00"; latitude, 3'J° 07' 88 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ?>H"; altitude above the sea, 4,200 feet; tliennonieter at 4.45 a. m., 53"^. ]\rorninfi^, as usual since we crossed the Se-day-e Mountains, oppressively warm immediately after sunrise. Moved at twenty minutes after 5. Continue 6.3 miles up valley of AValker's River, as for as the North Bend, and, at 8 a. m., encamp in tolerable gi-ass. Road good, except the sandy portion wherever we left the bed of the nver. Characteristics of conntiy same as yesterday. June 9, Cat)!}} No. 34, KortJi Bend of W(iU,rr's JRircr. — Elevation above the sea, 4,288 feet; thennometer at 4.2;") a. ni., 52^. Morning clear and pleasant. The Mexican, Sanchez, did not come in last night from guide's party to show us the road to next camp. AVe shall, however, push ahead, a Pi-Ute with us offering himself as o-uide. Our course lies northwestwardly to Carson River. Just after leaving camp, Sanchez met us and presented a letter from the guide, as fdllows : " Pi>EASANT Grove, Carson River, June 8, 1859. " Captain Simpsox : "Sir: All is right. Mr. Miller will build a raft that will take the wagons over, for S30. The logs have to be hauled some three miles. The people here feel pleased that you and your party are so near. It is now 12 o'clock, and I am ready to start for Genoa. I shall be back before you an-ive, to feiTy on the raft. ]\Ir. Miller says he will Imve it done to-morrow night. " Yours, "J. Reese." Six miles from camp we pass some hot and cold springs to left of road in valley. Thermometer rose to 165° when immersed in one of the hot springs. One of them is ten by twenty -five feet, and quite a stream flows from it. The water boils up at different points, and while it is of a sort of blue color in the body, along the margin it is a reddish-yellow color, douljtless caused by iron. The blue color is probably due to the sulphur it contains. It is the hottest spring I have seen, not excepting those near Salt Lake City. The valley, ever since we left our camp of this morning, has been exceedingly alkaline. Leaving the valley of AValker's River and striking for Carson River, we cross the point of a low mountain — ascent and descent good — and in three and one-half miles more get into an old wagon-road, which we follow. One mile more brings us to a canon, which we thread, and in which we find a considerable patch of grass and rushes. In this canon, on left side, fourteen riiiles from last camp, embowered among wild roses and willows, is a small spring of good, cool water, about which there is a little grass; a plenty of the latter one-half mile south. Two miles fai-ther, pass over the steepest and roughest hill, or spur, we have seen. AA^e would like to continue down the valley until we strike Carson River, and then turn up its valley to the left, and thus avoid this spur, but the height of the water prevents. At this hill we were detained two and one-half hours. All the teams had to double to get up, except Payte's, which seems thus far to carry off the meed of power and good management. Three miles more along and up Carson River upon its bank brought us to a good spot on the river, where we encamp in good grass. Carson River at our camp about 100 yards wide, quite swift; depth, from ten to fif- REPOET AND JOURNAL. 89 teen feet; color, soniewliat wliitisli or clayey. The river-l)ottoiu is about one-fourth of a miles wide, very rich, and can be readily irrigated. At this time the banks are full, and in places overflowing ; large cottouAvoods, solitary and in groves, along it. ]\rosquitoes, for the first time in c»ur exploration, troubled us on Carson Lake, and we have had them, much to our annoyance, ever since. The country to-day, between Walker's River and Cai'son River, miserabl}' arid and worthless for agricultui'al purposes. No timber ; greasewood the principal plant, and the largest I have seen six feet high and as many across its branches. Journey, 19 miles. Road good, except steep hill three miles back. Have noticed this side, or west, of Se-day-e Momitains, the dove. Trap, vesicular, and trachytic rocks ; also metamorphic strata characterize the region between Walker and Carson Rivers. We are now in the gold-region. June 10, Camp No. 35, Carson River. — Altitude above the sea, 4,200 feet. The mos- quitoes were so troublesome last night on the river-bottom that some of the men went on the bluff and slept. Last remaining ox of six we bronglit with us from Camp Floyd shows, by his constantly bellowing, his sense of his loneliness. The others liave been killed for beef Thennometer at 4.35 a. m., 58°. Morning pleasant and clear. Moved at quarter of 5. Continue westward along south side of Carson River as far as oppo- site Pleasant Grove, where at 8 o'clock a. m. we arrive. Find the raft ready, made of cottonwood-trees of an old log-house belonging to IMr. Miller, the agent of the Cali- fornia Mail Company at this station, and which be has pulled down for the purpose. This point a good one for ferry or ford; banks on either side low and fii-m. By 5 J p. m. the wagons and property were rafted across safely, except one wagon, which unfor- tunately capsized, causing the loss of some $31 belonging to the driver, Payte, (as he said,) and some clothing, also three sets of harness. What I however grieve the most about is-, that a portion of our Jicrharium has got soakiug-wet. The mules were driven across. The men have worked hard and have been constantly in the water, and obliged frequently to swim. It was amusing to see the cook, Storer, throw aAvay the coffee-pot he was bringing over on the raft, when it capsized, and plunge for his life into the stream. Fortunately, he, as well as the other fellow on the raft, could swim, and therefore there was no loss of persons. It was, however, very provoking to hear the teamster discover his morale, by the vociferation which he made just as he jumped from the raft: "Let her go; I am safe." This was the more so, as the fellow had been a great brag; but, like all such, his coiu-age, as well as honesty, failed him just at the moment of trial and when it was really needed. Journey to-day, 9 miles. Road in places stony. A mountain-range skirts the river on north side of river. Its geological character is probably metamorphic. Along the road the rocks have been porphyritic, trachytic, and vesicular. We have now at Pleasant Grove, for the fii-st time, got into the old Humboldt River and Carson Valley emigrant-road. The California Mail Company have a station here, under the charge of Mr. Miller, who occupies quite a good, weather-boarded house. The grove of cottonwoods near it give the place its name. June 11, Camp No. 36, Pleasant (7rore.— Elevation above the sea, 4,288 fe^t. Moved at quarter to 7. Immediately follow up the valley of Carson River, on its north side, the old emigrant-road, which is as well beaten as any in the States ; our 12 B u 90 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. course, west of soutli ; mountain-range continues j)arallel to road on north sitle, three miles off, and on south side of river there is another, five miles off. Notice along- the road three claim-shanties, and some ditching for mining purposes. After proceeding 7.4 miles from camp, come to China Town, on Carson Kiver ; elevation above the sea, 4,3G0 feet. This is a mining town of twelve houses, and contains about fift}' Chinese. Including all engaged in mining in a vicinity of six miles, the poi)ulation is about one hundred and fifty. Can clear at these diggings, called the Gold C'anon Flat Diggings, when there is Avater, from S5 to $8 per day per man. These diggings have been worked since 1 852. The material is taken out of the ravine, or arroija, -nhich is comjiosed of sand and cobblestones, and the gold" sifted from it by a ''rocker" or "cradle." Quality of the gold-dust, Slo to the ounce. There are some new diggings seven miles northwest from this place ixp Gold Canon, which were commenced last April, and which yield an average of t>15 per day to the hand, with the cradle. Two men have been known, with one rocker, to make in one day $155; quality, $12.} to tlie ounce. (It is in this vicinity that the late splendid discovery of silver-ore, called the Washoe mines, has been made.) The great ditficulty is the want of water, and on this account the mines are worked only in Avinter. There is a talk of tapping- Carson River high up, or BigleV Lake, and thus suppl}'ing the mines with water. A rocker is a simple cradle with a sieve, through which the material passes on water being thrown upon it and it is rocked. The "long torn" is one or more long troughs connected, and a sieve at the end and a lower receiver. In this trough the material and Avater are introduced and the gold collected all along, the finest on the loAvest platform or receiver. China Town has two stores, one recently kept by E. Sam, a Chinese, Avho was drowned the other day in attempting to ford Carson River on horseback, and the other by Keller & Cohen. I am indebted to Mr. Long, who is at present in charge of E. Sam's store, for the above information in relation to the mines of this region, and he has given me the prices of commodities, as follows: Sugar, 3 pounds for 8l; coffee, 3 pounds for $1; beef, 17 and 18 cents per pound; bacon, 37^ cents per pound; pota- toes, 8 cents per pound; flour, 16 cents; shoes, ordinary kind, $3; boots, (pegged,) $6 to $10; hickory shirts, $1.25; barley, 10 cents per pound; oats, 10 cents per pound; whisky, $3 per gallon. The timber they use is pine, and it is hauled twenty-five miles from Washoe Vallej'; cost at mill, $20 per thousand ; at China Town, $40. ]\[r. Long conducted me to a room where a couple of the principal Chinamen were smoking opium. They Avere reclining,* focing each other, on a kind of platform, their head sujiported by a stool or bench. lietAveen them was a lamp burning. They had a pipe of about tAvo feet long, the boAvl of it being two-thirds of the distance from the mouth-end. One or the other keeps the boAvl, charged Avith opium, constantly applied to the lamp, and, draAving hard, passes the smoke thi-ough the nose and mouth. Mr. Long sa3's $8 worth of opium Avill last tAvo persons about six months. It stupefies, rather than enlivens, and, when indulged in excessively, perfectly paralyzes the energies. lie also shoAved me a room in which there Avere six of these fellows gambling. They have a large number of pieces, like dominos, and counters, and take a great deal of interest in the game ; run through it Avith the greatest dexterity and rapidity. They EEPORT AND JOUEXAL, 91 are represented as being very fond of gambling Avlien they have nothing else to do, and not infrequently lose all their earnings in this Avay. These Chinamen have the characteristic look of their nation, the tawny color and peculiar eyes ; shave the hair clear around to the top of the head, giving a peculiar effect to the forehead, and let the balance fall behind^^in a tail or plait. Their foreheads are retreating; eyes, hazel ; wear wide pants and ordinary hickory (check) shirts. There are no women at this place. To proceed with route. At China Town we bear otf somewhat from Cai-son Kiver, one mile bringing us to forks of road; right leads to Johnstown, 1.5 miles off in Gold Caiion. Six miles fixrther up, in a branch of Gold Canon, are the new rich gold-dig- gings referred to above. All along this emigi-ant-route, ever since we struck it, the bones of oxen attest the effects of the old Humboldt route, on account of poisonous water and grass along the Humboldt and desert, in destroying stock. Four miles from China Town, cedars 15 to 20 feet high appear on either side of the road on the mountains and in the valley — the first we have seen since leav- ing the Se-day-e Mountains. Seven and one-half miles farther brings us to Carson City, in Eagle Valley, at the east foot of the Sierra Nevada, where, at 5 p. m., we encamp. The Sierra Nevada has appeared ahead of us to-day, toAvering high, covered Avith snow, and looking fine, covered as it is Avith tall pines from base to summit — a spectacle Ave have not seen before on the trip. Carson City has about a dozen small frame houses; two stores — Major Oi'msby proprietor of one. Eagle Valley, in Avhich it is situated, is of small extent but very fertile. A small stream courses through it, a large portion of Avhich is expended in irrigation. The location is a good one, on account of its proximity to the ucav diggings in Gold Canon, (said to be the richest yet discovered,) about 7 miles off, and its commercial relations Avith Honey Lake and other valleys to the north. I am informed that this same system of fertile valleys lying betAveen spurs from the Sierra Nevada, on its east side, continues for a Aery considerable distance both to the north and south of this valley. Road to-day, except OA'er a couple of sloughs of narrow Avldth, good. Journey, 11) miles. Spent a \'ery agreeable evening at Major Ormsby's,* Avhere I, for the first time since I left Camp Floyd, encountered the society of ladies. Mr. Crane, the former delegate to Washington in behalf of the claims of that section of country to a new Territory (Nevada), to be taken off from the western portion of Utah, Avas present. June 12, Ciimp No. 37, Carson C'dij, Eagle Vallc/j. — Altitude al)ove the sea, 4,587 feet. This morning at sunrise an overcoat not unpleasantly Avarm. Thermometer at 5 a. m., 44°. This camp-ground beautiful; the prospect the most pleasing and Eastern-States-like of any I have seen. It reminds me of a pastoral landscape of the lower Delaware, beloAv Trenton. This is the first morning there has been dew on the grass siifiicient to sIioaa' on your boots. Far parcidhcsc. — ilr. Reese, Avho has repeatedly been over the old route by Avaj' of Humboldt River, says it is objectionable, on account of high Avater in the spring ovei-floA\dng the valley and forcing the road on the bluffs, Avhich are very sandy. This • This gentlemau, I uotice by llie vapors, baa since boeu killed by tbo Pi-Utes, agaiust wbom be was operatinj; with a party of citizens. 92 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. liioli water affects the road for aljoiit 150 miles along- the Ilumholdt and Thousand Spring Valley. It is also objectionable on account of the bad Avater (alkaline) and alkaline grass, which extends along the lower part of the Humboldt for 75 miles, and on account of the desert between the sink of the Humboldt and the sink of Carson, and the scarcity of feed from Ragtown, on Carson lliver, to Big Bend of Carson, about 30 miles. Twenty-five per cent, of stock, he assures me, on the average, has been lost annu- ally on the route from these causes. The Goose Creek and Bear River Mountains make it also useless in the winter, on account of snoAv, and the distance is greater than by my route. He also represents that all along the Humboldt, that is, for a distance of over 300 miles, there is no timber but small willows; none in Thousand Spring Valley, and none on Goose Creek. Poor prospect this for the magnetic telegraph. Whereas on this our outward route, except between the Champlin Mountains and the Go-shoot range (86 miles), and between the Se-day-e Mountains and (Jarson Lake (5G miles), the mount- ain-ranges are covered with pine, pinon, balsam, quaking ash, and mountain mahogany, all of which make the telegraph a feasible project, the maximum haul of the poles, except at the points stated, being not over 10 miles.* Leave Carson City at quarter j)ast 5. Course southwardly, continuing on the old emigrant-road between the base of the Sierra Nevada and Carson River. In 3^ miles cross Clear Creek, a beautiful stream running from the Sierra Nevada into Carson River. Nearly all these sti-eams from the Sierra Nevada are so copious as to be ample for mill puri)Oses, and the i)ines near (yellow and white or sugar) average probably 4 feet through, and sonjetimes attain, Mr. Reese assures me, a diameter of 10 and a height of 150 feet. Near Clear Creek aj)proach again Carson River, and continue along it about 10 miles to Genoa. Noticed along the road the gallows on which the vigilance committee hung "Lucky Bill," last June or July, a reported horse-thief and murderer. Was astonished that the relic of such a season of popular agitation and excitement should be left to be harped upon by every passer-by. Notice, also, several farms along the road, a very common mode of fencing being the laying of single trunks of large pines in a line between the fields. The cattle look very fat, and sleek; hogs in like excellent condition. These latter are said to thrive on the roots of the tuilla or rush. The butter of this valley is of a rich gold color, and is said to command a higher price than the California butter. This valley is good for the small cereals. AVheat and barley do well. Corn has been raised, but the birds and frosts generally destroy the crops; very little oats have been raised. A few peaches have been produced, but as yet no apples. Grapes have never been tried. All garden-vegetables, as also the strawberry, raspberry, and gooseberry, thrive. Potatoes are raised, but the cultivation of the sweet-potato has been a failure, and I am informed that they cannot be raised in California. The soil is generally irrigated. As a pastoral region it is superb. Cattle on the hoof command 10 cents per pound. Barley brings about $3 per bushel.* The trade heretofore has consisted principally in exchanging goods with emigrants for their stock. Reached Genoa at half past 9 a. m. Journey, 12.9 miles ; road good. Just as we • My return route in respect to timber generally along the route, and particularly on the deserts at either extreme, was found still better adapted to the telegraph. For additioual information in relation to the Humboldt River route, see Introduction, page 22. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 93 entered town, wore saluted by the citizens with tliirteen guns and the running- up of the national flag, in honor of the party's having successfully accomplished the ohject of the exploration — the opening of a new and short road across the Great liasin fi-oni Camp Floyd, and thus facilitating the mails and emigration. iMicamped among some giant pines at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, just upon the southern edge of the town, and on a gushing stream of pure w^ater which courses down from the moiuitain. Our posi- tion is so high on the base of the mountain that we can overlook a large portion of the valley;. and a beautiful one it is, fenced of^', as it appears, into inclosures, and dotted with cattle. The sheen of the river (Carson), in its j^resent higli stnge, \er which we have conducted our 14 wagons without any gi'eat diflicultv, and which, except at the extreme ends (over Great Salt Lake Desert and over the desert just to the east of Carson Lake), furnishes an abundance of scrub cedar on the mountain-ranges, which will require a maximum haul of only about 10 miles, to supply the telegraphic lines with the necessary poles (if they will answer by splicing) for the support of the wire. Over the deserts refeiTed to the maximiuu haul wf>uld l)e, on the Salt Lake Desei-t, about 50 miles; on the Carson Lake Desert, about 25 miles. The route, also, is quite well supplied with the best of gi-ass and water, except over the deserts mentioned. (The sequel will show that I shortened the route still further on my return to Camp Floyd; and, also, on my more southern route, reduced the haul of cedars for telegraphic purposes over the Salt Lake Desert to 15 or 20 miles*). June 13, Cdnq) No. 38, fft'^/ort.— Longitude, 119'-^ 40' 30"; latitude, 38° 59' 33"; magnetic variation, 1G° 40' E.; elevation above the sea, 4,824 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 54°. 50. After giving dhections to Lieutenants Smith and Putman to keep up the astronomical observations, and Lieutenant Putnam to make an examina- tion of the old road as well as the Daggett trail over the first range of the Sierra Nevada into Lake Valley, leave the party in the charge of Lieutenant IMurry, and start for San Frandsco, 2G0 miles distant, via Placerville and Sacramento, at 8 a. m., with Major Dodge. Expect to be absent about 12 days, during wliich our animals and party will be able to recruit. Besides the three Pi-Utes mentioned yesterday, the Major has with him his interpreter, Dick, a lad about 15 years of age, and as bright a boy as I have seen for a long while. The major takes a great deal of interest in him, and looks after his Avelfare as if he were his own son. We all go mounted and take one p^ack-mule, the mule I ride, as Avell as a share of the pack-mule, ha^-ing been kindly tendered to me by the major. Oiu- course lay for a short distance up Carson Valley, or southwardly on old road. In 1.5 miles from Genoa, jiass Warm Springs, at foot of Sierra Nevada; 1.5 miles forther brought lis to the Daggett trail, A\hich we take over the east range of the Sierra Nevada to Lake Valley; the traveled wagon-road which we have left continu- * The distance from Great Salt Lake City to Genoa on old Humboldt River route, iis given above, may be incor- rect, and I suspect it is so; but, in the absence of anything official at the time, I could fiud nothing more reliable. Since my return to Washington, I find that Captain Marcy, in his "Prairie Traveler," lays down the distance Irom Salt Lake City to Reese's ranch (now Genoa) by this route as 774 miles. The case will then stand thus, regarding the cuts-oft' I made on my return to Camp Floyd : From Salt Lake City to Genoa, according to Marcy '"•! miles. From Camp Floyd to Salt Lake City (Simpson) *^ From Camp Floyd to Genoa by old Humboldt River road, then HH From Camp Floyd to Genoa, by my more northern route and " cuts-oft' " 531 Difference in favor of my shortest route over old Humboldt ronte from Camp Floyd 283 " Difference in favor of my shortest route from Salt Lake City 203 Difference in favor of my route over Chorpenning's 158 96 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ing along tlie foot of the Sierra Nevada, on its east side, from 18 to 20 miles, before turning to tlie west to cross the range. Find the trail up to Daggett Pass quite steep. It i-uns along the side-hill, and at times is dangerous. It is possible, however, that a better grade might be got along the ravine for a road. In about 3.5 miles from foot of the Sierra reach summit of pass, 7,180 feet above the sea, and lying about 4 miles to the northwest of us could be seen Lake Bigler, beautifully embosomed in the Sierra.* Descending by a tolerable grade, 2.5 miles farther brought us to Lake Valley, lying between the east and west ranges of the Sierra, which we thread in tlie dii-ection of its length about 12.5 miles southwardly to mail-station, Avhich avo reach at half-past 1, and whei'e we dine. Distance from Genoa, 21.5 miles. The ride this morning the most charming I have had for a long while. Lake Valley is like a beautiful park, studded -with large, stately pines. The glades between the trees are beautifully green, and the whole is enlivened by a pure, babbling mount- ain-stream, the most southern and principal branch of the Truckee, coursing along northwardly to its expansion. Lake Bigler. The pines of various kinds are very large, and attain a height of probably from 100 to 150 feet. Their diameter is not nnfrequently as nnich as 8 feet, and they sometimes attain the dimension of 10 feet- Just before we reached the mail-station, noticed a splendid waterfall or cascade, a tributary of the Truckee, tumbling into the valley from the west range. Saw in the valley a large herd of cattle and hogs, all looking finely. Indeed, I never have seen more sleek, saucy-looking cattle anywhei-e. At the mail-station met Mr. T. A. Thompson, tlie celebrated Norwegian, who car- ried the mail across the Sierra Nevada, on snow-shoes, from about the middle of last April to fore part of May. He represents the snow to have been, in places where he had to go, 10 feet deep. One of the hands at the mail-station told me that in the spnng the snow at one time was as high as the top of the window (pointing to it), that is about 8 feet. This between the two ranges in Lake Valley. Thomp- son says that the first wagon went over the road across the mountains about 20th of May, the snow preventing it before. After dinner proceeded on jouriic}'. Just after leaving mail-station, commence ascending, by a side cut, the west range of the SieiTa Nevada, and directly under the spray of the falling cataract mentioned before, which comes down from a height of several hundred feet, and rushes directly over the road. In about 2 miles from foot, attain summit of range, or Johnston's Pass (altitude above the sea, 7,222 feet). Grade of road good until near top, where it is rather steep. Thi.s grade is the commence- ment of a road Avlilch the people of El Dorado and Sacramento Counties, of California, at the expense of some $50,000, have made from Lake Valley across the west range of the SieiTa Nevada; and quite well has the work been laid out and executed. I am told the superintending engineer was Mr. Sherman Daj-, of San Jose, Cal., A\ho bears the reputation of being quite accomplished in his })rofession. As soon as we attained the summit of the range, Mr. Thompson took us to a point where we obtained a fine view of Lake Bigler. After reaching summit, soon find "Fi'^mout, in his report of l«4f) and 184G, calls this Bheet of water Mounluin Luke; ou hie niai) of 1848 he calls it Lake Bonpland. It now is known by the name of Lul;e Bigler, and according to the report of Mr. George H. GoddarJ, of California, " it is a noUle sheet of water, from 15 to 'JO miles in length by G or 7 in width." KEPORT AND JOURNAL. 97 yjourself passing along the north side of the South Fork of the American River, and a more roaring, rushing, cataract mountain-stream I never beheld. Indeed, the views along this stream, and at the Slippery Ford, are superbly magnificent. The mountains at Slippery Ford, 6 miles from Johnston's Pass, are a mass of granite from bottom to top. Major Dodge and myself would ever and anon stop to contemplate and discom-oC upon the beauty of the prospect. Indeed, my ride to-day can never be effaced from my mind. Mr. Thompson showed me stumps, or broken-off trees, that he looked down iipon last winter and spring when he carried the mail across the mountains on snow-shoes. This corroborates his statement that the depth was as much as 10 feet. He said he found a man in Lake Valley, last winter, that for 12 days had remained at one spot, not able to move on account of his feet having become frozen. All this time he lived on a little flour. At half-past 5 reach Barry's, where we stop for the night; by the Avay we have come (Daggett's trail) 33 miles from Genoa. Judge Child, of Genoa, and Mr. Thompson, also put up here. The soil, after crossing first range of the Sierra, is generally of a reddish hue, and is a sort of arenaceous loam. The valley of the South Fork of the American below Slijjpery Ford is called Strawberry Valley, on account of its being prolific of this fruit. Mr. Thompson showed me how he walked on his snow-shoes last winter. They are smooth pieces of boai-d from 6 to 8 feet long, 6 inches broad at forepart, 4 at middle, and less at ends, the forepart slightly turned up like a sleigh-runner. A little in front of the middle portion a strap or thong is nailed across, in which he slips his toes, then there is a cleat nailed across, against which the heel of his shoe strikes or pushes. He then gently lifts the shoe, and at the same time pushing it along with his foot, causes himself to slide first with one shoe and then with the other. He has at the same time a stick against which, as he goes down hill, he supports himself, and which he uses also as a break. He says he has a standing bet with any one that, let him select his ground along a side-hill, he will travel a mile a minute ; that he sometimes passes over precipices of 10 feet, and would land at a distance of 20 feet, and .still stand upright. When a child in Norway he used, with other boys, to practice this kind of leap, and thus made himself an expert. I notice that the telegraph-line along the road over the mountains is, in many instances, supported by living trees as posts. Also noticed a number of coils of wire lying along the road, which are intended to be used in extending it from Genoa toward Camp Floyd and Great Salt Lake City. June 14, Barry'' s, on South Fork of American Biver, Sierra Nevada. — Bvmks erected for travelers at this stopping-place, and blankets and comforters for bed-clothes. The luxury of sheets not yet gone into. House of split clapboards, and cpiite rude, but yet a fair mountain-house in a new countiy, and table quite good. Renewed journey at 10 minutes before 6. Met a four-horse comfortable-looking stage going over to Genoa, to run between that place and the new gold-mines on the Rio Ida, the East Fork of Walker's River, 90 miles from Genoa. These placers were dis- covered in the fall of 1858, and are pronounced very rich. The gold is said to be l.S B u 98 ' EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. worth Si 8 per ounce, it being mostly shot-gold, and not in the dust. Two miles frojn Barry's a side cut of excellent grade commences, which continues for 25 miles, and is a piece of road which would do credit to any of our older States. Its defects are in not being sufficiently wide for teams of more than two draught animals to turn (except with the greatest care) its sometimes sharp angles, and in places it does not admit of teams passing each other. These defects should be I'ectified. Ten miles from Bany's reach Boswell's, a very good log-house, and place of refreshment and lodging. Seven- teen miles more, at 11^ o'clock, reach Peter Burdie's, where we dine and feed animals. Leave at 25 minutes of 2. One and a half miles from Burdie's, cross South Fork of American River to south side by bridge, and do not see it again till we reach Sacra- mento. To this point (the bridge) we have been traveling fi"om summit of Johnston's Pass along north side of this river, which at times we could see as much as 1,000 feet below us, and always raging, rushing, and making a din, out of which we have not been since we got on it. As yesterday, until about 5 miles back, the granite has shown itself in magnificent proportions. As soon as we cross the American Fork Ave emerged from the mountainous region, and the country became more open and rolling. Farms, farm-houses, and improve- ments generally,- increase as you approach Placerville, and the fences, fruit-trees (principally peach), wheat, potatoes, gardens, domestic pigeons, reddish Maryland color of the soil, and large umbrageous oaks, which become more frequent, interming- ling with the pines, make you almost think you are east of the Rocky Mountains in an old settled country. Indeed, until my present exploration, I have had no proper idea either of the Sierra Nevada or of the country at its western base. The transit from the arid plains east of the SieiTa Nevada to the quick teeming- country lying on its western slope is most singularly marked and sudden, and shows how much, irrespective of latitude, the laAvs of climate and production are dependent upon physical circumstances and features of country. Pass a tavern called Sportsman Hall, 6.5 miles from bridge over Soutli Fork of American, and 1 2 miles moi'e brought us, about sundown, to Placerville, a mining-town on a small tributary of the South Fork of the Amei'ican, 79.5 miles by Daggett's trail from Genoa. This town is built princiijally upon one street, and is divided into what is called upper and lower town. The latter is the business jJortion, and has a great number of stores ; some pretty white cottages, with roses clambering up the porticoes, and gardens filled with vegetables and fruit-trees, being visible. Pits seen every- where, where they have been digging for gold, and the little stream coursing through the town is red with the Sediment, which has been the result of gold-washings. The streets, I notice, are filled with people, and the hotels are full, caused by the assemblage of a convention for the nomination of county officers. Thanks, however, to the kind- ness and forethought of friends, a room has been reserved for Major Dodge and myself at the Carey House. Population of town about 3,500, and of township, 10,000. Was called on by several influential men of the place, who congratulated us upon the suc- cess of our expedition in getting aci'oss the Great Basin and shortening the centi'al overland mail-route so much. Col. Fred. A. Bee, the president of the central overland, called the Placerville and Saint Joseph Telegraph Company, was particularly gratified, REPORT AND JOURNAL. 99 and remarked to me that I might consider my route as adoi:)ted for the Hne. I told him to wait till I could report from Camp Floyd the results:^ of our exploration for a shorter return-route before he decided, for I believed I could get a still better one, which woiild be from 30 to oO miles shorter. Jane 15, Placcn-iUe. — Remain here to-day to perfect arrangements about sending a few supplies over the Sierra Nevada to party at Genoa. Require some extra wagon- tongues and couplings, and think it well to provide ourselves with a little forage and a few other things to meet contingencies. Visited steam-crushing quartz-mill in the city for the extraction of the gold. It has 20 vertical iron tamps, aljout "2 inches in diameter, placed in upright frames, and so fixed with projecting shoulders that a horizontal shaft, turning on its axis and provided also with projections, lifts the tamps, and their own weight is such that they fall heavily and tamp or crush the quartz, which is placed in a box at their feet. A stream of water is constantly passing through the box, and carries the debris and gold over an inclined api"on, on Avhich are arranged, horizontally, slats or riffles, which catch the gold as it passes. The quartz is conveyed to the mill from the mine, near, in cars, which run on a railway from a shaft or tunnel which at the present time has penetrated the blutf hori- zontally about 200 yards, and is about 40 yards below the superior surface of the ground. I entered the shaft and saw the miners at work getting- out the masses of quartz. It is singular that in any of the quartz I saw I could not, with the eye, detect the slig'htest speck of gold; and yet I am told the investment in the business is a good one. Visited, with Major Dodge, Colonel Bee and lady, and were regaled with fresh strawbeiTies from their garden, and brandied peaches, which were the first foretaste I had had of the fine rich fruits for which this region is famous. The colonel has a pretty cottag-e residence, tastefully adorned with flowers and fruit-trees, and conspicu- ous in his garden is a windmill, bA' which the water is raised from a well and so con- ducted by small canals as to irrigate the soil. The windmill, I notice, is quite a com- mon feature in the landscape of this country, and has become so on account of the necessity of irrigating the soil to make it productive, to which purpose it is applied. Ordered a bill of supplies to be transported to Genoa, at 7 cents per poiind. The usual charge, I am told, is about 5 cents, but in order to insure their being carried over immediately, I am obliged to pay 7 cents. One cent per pound is to be forfeited if not delivered by the 22d instant. The cause of this heavy charge for transportation is the steep, rocky character of the portion of the road over the east range of the Sierra Nevada, between Lake Valley and Carson Valley, which I shall examine on my return to Genoa, and on which the Californians have expended no labor, for the rea- son, doubtless, that it lies mostly, if not entirely, in Utah. June 16, Placerville. — Left with Major Dodge for Folsom, 28 miles distant, at 6 a. m., Pi-Ute interpreter Dick in company. Conveyance the finest kind of stiiges, and drawn by large, sti'ong, well set up, stylish horses. Fare to Sacramento, S6. Break- fast at Duroc's. At Folsom took railroad-cars for Sacramento, the capital of the State, 23 miles distant, which we reached aliout 1. (^>untry between Placerville and Fol- som beautifully rolling; between Folsom and Sacramento, very level. It is generally 100 EXPLOEA.TIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. cultivated, and beautifully rich with grain, which is being harvested, and the neat board fences and houses everywhere attest the rapid growth of the State and the enterprising character of the peojjle. The pine is seldom seen after you leave Placer- ville, and from Folsom west the oak is almost entirely the native tree. They are very large and umbrageous, and being interspersed in a park-like way, give a beautiful aspect to the landscape. The ugly stumps of the recently-cleared lands in our older States are nowhere to be seen. At Sacramento there were nine steamers, great and small, Ivinof at the wharves- The Eclipse, in which we took passage at 2 o'clock for San Francisco, is like our Mississippi boats, and as handsome, comfortable, and neat as the best of them. Fare to San Francisco, S5, and 81 additional for dinner. Distance, 120 miles. Had but little time to glance at the city, but saw enough to convince me of its business thrift. Hope to see more of it on my return. Saw Mr. Upson, editor of the Union, who expressed himself as delighted with the success of our expedition across the Great Basin. The Sacramento is a noble stream, probably about 200 yards wide. Its color quite red, like all the streams I have seen this side of the foot of the SieiTa Kevada, caused, I am informed, by the universal use of the water for washing gold out of the soil, wliich is of a red color. At the present time the river is from 4 to 6 feet below the top of its banks, and at times is said to overflow them. Indeed, in order to jiro- tect the city of Sacramento from inundation, a levee has been made all around it. The country between Sacramento and the bay of San Francisco lies very low and level, as far as the eye can reach, and everywhere looks rich and productive. Windmills for pvirposes of m-igation are a prominent characteristic. As you approach San Fran- cisco the land assumes a higher and bolder aspect, and the mainland, as well as the islands, become remarkable on account of then- peciiliarly bold and convex shajie from the water up; and the brownish-red colored oats, at this season of the year, occasion- ally relieved by dark patches of timber, give a very unique character to the landscape. Touched at Benicia, where there is a military post, and had a chat with ]\Iaj. George P. Andrews and Lieut. Job J. Chandler, Second Artillery, who, seeing me in military attire, introduced themselves. Reached San Francisco at a quarter after 9 in the even- ing, and put up at the International Hotel. June 18, San Francisco. — Intending to lea^ve to-morrow on nij return to Genoa, have only time to see friends. Find, however, the place exceedingly city-lilce. Has many fine, substantial houses. The streets, especially Montgomery street, are full of people. Eveiything seems to be done on the high-pressure principle. Rents, I am informed, are still very high. Visited the market and saw a splendid exhibition of vegetables. They have the largest strawberries here I have ever seen. Notice the egg of a wild water-fowl, which is found on the islands and exposed for sale. Called on a luimber of old friends, principally officers of the Army. Was invited to take a ride about the city and suburbs, but had not the time. The cocj breeze from the Pacific, generally in the afternoon, makes winter-clothing agi'eeable even in the depth of summer. Messrs. McCrellish & Woodward, of the Alta-California, are anxious that I should allow Mr. Walter Lowry, their city commercial correspondent, and who is an EEPOET AND JOURNAL. 101 invalid, to accompany us on our return to the States. He is desirous to see his friends and relatives once more in that quarter, and thinks that a trip across the plains will restore him to health. In consequence of" the rough character of the countiy, I have demurred until I could see him personally at Placerville. June 19, Sail Francisco. — Having transacted all my business, at 4 p. m. Major Dodge and myself took passage on board the steamer for Sacramento, on our return to Genoa, $7.50 fare for passage and half of state-room. I leave with a gi-eat deal of regret, feeling that my -s-isit has been so short as scarcely to have permitted me to see any- thing; but duty i-equires me to join my party without delay. The harbor of San Francisco, which we now see by daylight, is dovibtless one of the boldest in the world. The grand characteristics are its commodiousness, and, as I have before stated, l)old, convex character of its islets and headlands, and the peculiar brown or russet Color of the face of the country, caused by the all-prevailing . wild oats in their pi-esent ripe condition. June 19, Sacramento. — Reached this city in the night. Put up at Saint George Hotel, General C. J. Hutchinson proprietor and landlord. In the morning Major Dodge and myself went to Episcopal church with Mrs. Hutchinson and another lady, the general having politely extended to us seats in his carriage. The whole style of the ser\-ices and the sermon, as well as of the church, carried me back to the happy occa- sion, when, with my own family and friends, I had, more than a year previous, been enabled to join them in these sacred duties. Among- the gentlemen who have called uj)on me and showed us a gi*eat deal of attention is Mr. James R. Hardenburgh, an old schoohnate and fellow-townsman of mine, from Kew Brunswick, N. J. We had not met for 28 years, and, of com'se, the pleasure was coiTespondingly enhanced. I must also acknowledge the kind tender of services of Mr. M. S. Brocklebank, the brother-in-law of Governor Weller, who made himself known to me, and treated me very civilly. The city is full of strangers, drawn here by the State convention, wliich is about to meet, to nominate candidates for State offices. Among the distinguished is Governor Denver, whom I last saw at Fort Leaven- worth, just before I left for Utah, in the spring of 1858. This city is very well built, considering its age; has a number of fine dwellings, and the country around it is remarkablv rich and productive. Jane 20, Sacranienfo. — Took cars for Folsom at 7, and arrived at Placerville at 2. Settled with Mr. Richardson for supplies, which have been forwarded to Genoa accord- ing to agreement. Was inti-oduced by Colonel Bee to Mr. Walter Lowry, the corre- spondent of the Alta-California, the gentleman ]\Ir. jVIcCrellish, of San Francisco, spoke to me about. Saw at once his feeble state of health would not permit him to endure a journey across the continent, and tried to dissuade him from accomjxanying us. He will, however, not heed my advice ; and my hope is that, if he finds the journey across the SieiTa Nevada too fatiguing, he will yet give up the idea of continuing on with us from Genoa. June 21, PlacerrUle. — Left at 9i o'clock, with Major Dodge, Mr. Walter Lowry, and Mr. Van Duyck, for Genoa, retracing as far as Lake Galley our old route. Our conveyance is an ambulance, wliich the major has had made at this place. Om* driver 102 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. is tlie famous Norwegian, Thompson, of whom I have before spoken ; Pi-Ute Dick is also along. Stopped for the night at Peter Burdie's, 20 miles from Placer^-ille. June 22, Peter Burdie's, Sierra Nevada. — Left at 5 a. m., and reached Yankee's, or mail-station, in Lake Valley, 40 miles from Bm-die's, and staid all night. I notice that, after leaving the 25-mile side-hill grade, before spoken of, and before reaching Johnston's Pass, tlie road is very rocky, and in many places steep, and, like the poilions mentioned under date of June 14, should be improved. June 23, mail-station, Lake Valley, Sierra Nevada. — Elevation above the sea, 6,311 feet. In order to get over to Genoa as early as possible, left Major Dodge at station, and took passage in the mail-stage, lea^^ng at 3 a. m. Passengers, a lady and child and two men, with myself Driver a famous whip, but who, unfortunately, had all night bug been carousing with some others at the station, and was quite di-unk when he started. He seemed, however, to be sober enough to ask me to sit with him outside, and, as I thought, that -I might take the lines if there should be occasion. Had scarcely left, before, on account of the darkness of the night, the mules got out of the road, and came near breaking the stage by passing between two stumps. Being on the box, I was enabled to di-aw up the team in time, not, however, without the loss of a whipple-ti-ee. The next obstacle was the bridge, from the farther half of which the pvmcheon flooring had been removed by some mischievous persons during the night, and piled up on the bank.* I got off, and, with the assistance of one of the passengers, who was, like the driver, a little boosy, replaced the flooring, a space of about 2 feet being left on the farther side, on account of a deficiency of material. Nothing daunted, however, the di-iver rushed over, and fortunately gained the opposite bank without accident. After this, in ascending the acclivity from Lake Valley to summit of Luther's Pass, 6 miles from mail-station, had a very serious time. All hands out to enable him to get up the hill. Driver so drunk as not to know what to do, and yet as obstinate as a mule ; slashes the animals all around, but yet in such a way as not to make them work together; the consequence is a dead halt. Was glad of it, for the reason that if he could have got to the summit before he became sober he would have dashed us all to pieces in his descent on the other side. At last, just before reaching summit, the stage upset and broke the tongue. Luckily, at my suggestion, all were out at the time. Here was a dilemma. I helped to get the stage out of the road. The diiver then took his mules and Avent down to the next house on the road, for a wagon. About an hour after, Major Dodge appeared with his ambu- lance, and kindly took the lady and myself in with him, and left Mr. Van Duyck and Dick to follow in the stage. In about 4 miles, met driver retm'ning with a wagon, a good deal sobered and subdued. At about 9 o'clock reach Woodford's, at the mouth of Carson River Canon, where we stojiped and got breakfast. The road from Lake Valle)' to mouth of Carson Canon, where the fork debouches from the mountains into the valley of Carson River, a distance of 12 or 13 miles, is the ivorst portion of the tvkole road over the Sierra Nevada. The ascent from Lake Valley " The breaking of the whipple-tree I consider providential and a blessing, since without its occurrence we would •ill have been upset in the creek, aud our lives lost or bones broken. The carousing at the miuj-station and the taking up of half the bridge was, as I think, all done by the parties who instigated it to rob the mail, Indian agent, aud myself, who, it was doubtless well known, had gold ou account of the expedition. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 103 to summit of Luther's Pass is very steep, and the road is filk'd with tremendous rorks, which shoukl have been removed. It is astonishing, considering this is a portion of the great emigration route over the continent, that Congress has not done something toward amehorating it. There is no portion of my route from Camp Floyd, though the greater portion of it is entirely new, so bad as this. If a road can at all be got over the Daggett trail, Avhich is i)robable, it ought, by all means, to be done, both on the score of distance and quality of road. At least $30,000 should be appropriated for the portion between Carson Valley and Johnston's Pass, and $10,000 for the portion to the west of said pass. Several bridges to be built across fork of Carson River in cailon. Reached Genoa at 4 p. m. Road from mouth of Carson Canon good. Dis- tance, 19 miles. Total journey from mail-station iu Lake Valley, 31 miles. Lieu- tenant Murry reports that matters have been going on well during my absence. The good citizens paid my party the compliment of a public ball last evening, which, they infoi-med me, passed off much to the satisfaction of every one. In consequence of Major Dodge and myself having been delayed on the route longer than we had anticipated, we were deprived of the privilege of being present. Paid off several of the party and settled outstanding accounts. RETURN TO CAMP FLOYD. June 24, Genoa, Camp No. 1. — Thermometer at 4.50 a. m., 65°. Concluded settlement of accounts, and at 7 a. m. we took up our march on our return to Camp Floyd. Mr. Lowiy will not listen to any advice in opposition to his accompanying us, and I, therefore, think it my duty to acquiesce, though I feel morally certain that he cannot survive the trip. Mr. Reese, though a citizen of Genoa, returns with us as guide, and I have sent him, Ute Pete, and two other persons in advance, to provide for improvement of route, by taking a short cut from bend of Carson to south side of Carson Lake, and to explore for passage through the mountain-range to the east of the sink of Carson. Having been politely invited to dine at Mr. Dorsey's, who lives 7 miles from Genoa, on om- road. Lieutenant Murry, Mr. Lowrj^, Mr. Smith, of Genoa, Mr. Lee, and myself stopped for a few hours, and were kindly entertained by him and his lady. Mr. and Mrs. Noteware, kind neighbors of the family, were present. Train reached Carson City early in the afternoon, and party encamped. We reached it about dark. Journey, 13.8 miles. Route the same as traveled on out- ward journey. In the evening were visited by Major Ormsby and lady, and other persons, who take a kind interest in the success of our expedition. June 25, Canq) No. 2, Carson City. — Had the first cool night I have experienced for some time. Consequence, a refreshing sleep. Moved at 5 a.m. In 11.7 miles reach Chinatowm, about 9.30 a. m. Altitude above the sea, 4,360 feet. Here leave our old road, and immediately cross Carson River by ford, and take route along river on south side. Depth of water, 3.5 feet. Wagons barely escaped receiving water in them. One forage- wagon capsized. All the rest got over without difficulty. By 11 all across. Five miles from ford, after crossing some bad sloughs, which may be obviated bv taking higher ground, reach camping-place for the night. Journey, 17.2 miles. 104 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. June 26, Camp No. 3, Carson VaUey. — Elevation above the sea, 4,300 ; thermom- eter at 5a. m., 49°. Mosquitoes durmg the iiig-ht terrible. Moved at 5 a. m. Continued along an old road on south side of Carson River for 2 miles, where we join, opposite Pleasant Grove, our old outward track, and continued on same 12.6 miles to east foot of ugly hill refen-ed to June 9, which we found we could not, as we hoped, evade by- passing between it and the river. Going- east, however, the hill is not bad. The difficultv, as before stated, is in the ascent from the east side. After attaining valley on east side of hill, we left our outward track and old road, and turned to the left down the valley to within a few hundred yards of Carson River, and then go over another spiu', and in about a mile get into valley of Carson River again, which we follow dowTi 2 miles, and at 1.15 o'clock encamp on the river bank. Journey, 18.2 miles. Om- experience shows that the road from Pleasant Grove on north side of river better to Chinatown tlian that on south side. It is a characteristic of this valley that the miry, rich soil prevents yom- approaching the stream except at a few points, and these are the best camj? grounds. Cottonwoods and willows line the banks. The mules fattened up wonderfully at Genoa, and they are now in prime condition. One of the guide's party came into camp this afternoon, to show us our route to-morrow. June 27, Camp No. 4, Carson River. — Elevation above the sea, 4,154 feet; ther- mometer at 4.30 a. m., 52J°. Resimied march at 5. Continued down valley of Car- son River eastwardly about 2 miles, when we leave it and sti'ike for south end of Carson Lake. Low mountains, perfectly destitute of timber, and of a brownish-red- dish hue, range on either side and parallel to the river. Eight miles farther commence ascending a sandy ravine of slight grade, and in 3 miles attain summit of a low range 4,460 feet above the sea, from which, looking back, Carson River can be seen, well marked by the trees which line its banks. At intervals of 2.5 and 1.7 miles cross other low ridges, the last tolerably steep on east side; and 7 J miles farther, at half past 5, reach south end of Carson Lake, where we encamp. Journey, 25.1 miles. Road first 10 miles good, next 12 miles sandy and heavy, last 3 miles over margin of lake and good. Fine grass and rushes where we are encamped. Fuel shoiild be brought. June 28, Camp No. 5, south end of Carson Lake. — Elevation above the sea, 3,840 feet; nightirefi-eshingly cool ; thermometer at 4.58 a. m., 55°. Moved at 5 minutes after 5. Continue along shore of Carson Lake, at foot of point of low range or spur, being sometimes, on account of marsh, forced on first bench; and, after crossing an alkali flat, 7.5 miles from last camp, join our outward route, which we follow along the lake shore 4.5 miles farther and encamp. Journey, 12.2 miles. Road good. It was my intention to proceed farther along the lake, but ¥/ilson Lambert, of the guide's party, meeting us here, and infonning me that Mr. Reese had not, as was hojied, been able to find a practicable route for wagons through the mountain-range immediately to the east of the sink or more northern lake of Carson River, I am obliged to give up the idea of shortening my route in that direction, and to strike eastwardly and cut off the angle or cusp, caused on my out^\•ard route by the mistake of my guide, mentioned in my journal of June 5. There is an Indian trail, it appears, east from the sink of Carson, which is practicable for pack animals, but it would requu-e considerable work to make it so for wagons. The next camp-ground, according to guide, is 7 to 9 miles EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 105 from here, and is represented as being alkaline, and the su])ply of water a small spring. The guide, it seems, supposed we could not reach this spring till to-mon-ow, and intended sending back a man, the day aftei', to rej^ort the camp beyond. The result is that as our animals will fare best where we are, I have ordered a halt, and the com- mand, as stated, to go into encampment. I have noticed the i)elican to-day floating on the lake and looming so large as to look like a small sail- boat. Onr old road along the lake is at present overflowed by the water of the lake, and this Avhen Carson River, which feeds it, has declined several feet. This shows that the lake do«>s not sink and evaporate as fast as the water flows in. The best grass is to the north of our camp, to which we have driven our herd. Fuel should be brought. Jane 29, Camn No. G, cast side of Carson Lake. — Elevation alxive the sea, 3,840 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 70°. In conserpience of laying over at this camp for the benefit of the water and feed, and not wishing to tarry any longer than necessary at our next, where the water and grass are said to be ver}*" scant, and the latter aUcaline, we did not move till 2 o'clock. At 11 o'clock a Mr. Ward, of Placerville, and three other persons, joined us, in order to accompany us on our route and thus have the benefit of our protection. The nearest direction for the road would be from south end of Carson Lake directly across eastwardl}' to Alkaline Valley, but though there is a low pass to admit of a pack-route, Mr. Reese has reported it too full of sand to allow the passage of wagons. We cross a low rocky ridge, 1 mile to the east of camp, and gradually bear to the right, and pass east of south along west edge of Alkaline Valley. Five and a half miles from camp come to grassy bottom, Avhere there is some tolerable grass, and water probably within a foot of the surface. To the west of this place in the flat is a very small warm spring of prettv good water. The efflorescence ai'Oiuid it is not alkali, but pure salt. This being the case, the probabilities are that by digging wells in the vicinity where there are indications of water, good water might be obtained. Two and a half miles farther brought us to a spring 6 feet long, 2 deep, and 1 J Mdde, which is sulphurous, biit not impalatable. There is a small patch of rushes in the vicinity, but no grass. This Avas the locality intended by om- guide as our camping-ground for the night, but the water and grass proving insufficient Ave only Avater the animals scantily and then 23ush on, believing it better to get to the best grass and Avater as soon as possible, though in order to do so Ave shall have to travel all night. Leave spring at 1 7 minittes after 5, and in 7.5 miles after crossing Alkaline Valley, join our outAvard route, near jioint of mountain, not far from our old camp. No. 30. Here we halt to take some coffee and feed the draught mules with some of the forage Ave have brought Avith us. The Alkaline Valley Avhere Ave crossed it Avill evidently be impassable from mire in Avet Aveather. In this case, persons coming from Carson Lake, should cross the A-allcA' about 7 miles north of dug-holes, and then cross on tolerabl}' hard and high ground. Leave at half past 1 1 p.m. Night pleasantly cool. Just before daylight felt 0])pressively sleepy, and CA^ery once in a Avhile, though riding in the saddle, Avould 14 B u 106 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. catch myself dozing. One of my assistants passed me at daybreak, at a gallop, as I thonglit to quickly airive at our next camping-gx'ound, but I had not continued far before I found him stretched out on the ground, fast asleep, holding his mule. Pro- ceeding on in advance of train, I an-ived at old camp (No. 29), Middle Gate, 23.4 miles from halting place of last evening, at 7 a. ra. June 30; but unfortunately found the water, which was running before, was now to be got only by digging, and that scantily. The train did not get in till 10. We shall turn out om- mules to graze and let them di-ink what water they can in the dug wells. Meantime, get breakfast. Found Pete at this point, and Mr. Reese came in subsequently on 'his return from a- reconnaissance still farther ahead. It should be remarked that there is not the slightest doubt that water in abundance could be got at this point (Middle Gate) by sinking suitable wells. Indeed, it exists now in springs in an arroyo near, and we got it in another easily accessil)le place by digging not more than two feet deep. There is plenty of rock at hand to wall the wells. I think it very probable, also, that in "West Gate," 3.5 miles west of this, water may be obtained by digging. Indeed, the indications are decided, also, that in the moist jilaces in the Alkaline Valley we passed over yesterday aftex'noon, where there is no alkaline efflorescence, water could be got in sufficient quantity, and that it possibly would be good. I have ah-eady noted that while portions of the desert are alkaline, some poiiions discover pure salt on the surface, and others none of any kind. There are several families of Pi-Utes at this Middle Gate, collecting grass-seed, which they sepa- rate from the husks by first iiibbing the heads lightly under stones and then winnow, by tlu'owing it up in the wind. Afterward they convert it into a flour by nibbing it by the hand between .stones. I notice they use a variety of seeds in making floiu' These Indians have come from Carson Lake, and appear to be industrious and able- bodied. I doubt not their 2^resent life is such as to make them facile subjects of hus- bandry and civilization generally. Indeed, I have been assured that some of them do hire themselves out as laborers in California for considerable periods of time — as long as a year at a time — and that they have been found faithful and to work well. Resumed march at half past 1. In 1.75 miles cross an arroyo whei'e the water yesterday, according to Mr. Reese, was running, but now exists in small pools. A small spring about two feet deep and one wide has been found to the right of this point, aboiit three-quarters of a mile. There is no grass about it. Water not unpalatably sulphurous, but too scant for anything of a paity. After crossing an arroyo, or creek, immediately leave old road, and bearing off to the left or northwardly, pass up valley, bounded by the Se-day-e Mountains on our right and a range of high mountains on our left. Distance bettveen crests probably fifteen to twenty miles. Trees for first time since leaving Carson Valley appear on the Se-day-e Mountains, and also on the range to our left toward its north portion Grass and water are visible in the ravines of the Se- day-e Mountains. Ten miles from Middle Gate reach, near base of Se-day-e Mountain, a small run- ning brook of icy-cold, pure water, which I call Cold Spring, and Avhich, after running a few hundred yards, sinks. A more refreshing drink than I obtained from this brook, after the parched, wearisome travel of last night, I believe I never had. The men all EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 107 seemed equally eager for the cold draught, and were equally delighted. But we have felt most for the poor animals, which have had but about a pailful apiece since yes- terday aftei-noon. Tliey are so fagged, that they failed to get up with the wagons to the stream, and we are forced, therefore, to go into camp a mile from the water. The animals are driven to the water, and find an abundance of grass at the head of the creek. Mr. ]\IcCarthy reports water in the mountains to our left, or west of us ; also says he found the water running at Gibraltar Gate. Journey, since 2 p. m. yesterday, 49.9 miles ; road good. July 1, Camp No. 7, Cold Spring. — Elevation above the sea, 5,570 feet; thermom- eter at 6.30 a. m., 72°. All hands had a most refreshing sleep last night, and it is astoni.shing what a restorative piire cold water is. At 9 a. m. Mr. Thompson, the Nor- wegian, before spoken of, arrived and brought our mail from Genoa. He left the latter place on the 27th ultimo, and came by the way of Ragtown, on Carson River, crossing over thence to south side of Carson Lake, where he got into our i-oad. Mr. Reese, Pete, and four other men, inclviding two soldiers, left about 10 o'clock to examine the country for the purpose of connecting our present route with the new proposed route, south of Ruby Valley. This examination will involve an extent of travel ahead of from 130 to 150 miles. Party and train decamped at 1 p. m., and continue northwardly up valley. After proceechng 1 1 miles come to rapid stream of pure water, 2 feet wide, If deep, flowing from the Se-day-e Range. On this we encamp. Willows fringe it, and grass is to be found higher up in the canon. I call the stream after one of my assistants, Mr. Ed- ward Jagiello, a Polish gentleman ; his surname being difficult of proniinciation, I have preferred liis Clu-istian name as the appellation. Road, to-day, stony, on account of being on bench ; farther down in the valley it would be smooth. Opposite our camp, in the range of mountains lying to the west of us, is a deep pass, in which can be plainly seen an extensive bottom of grass, and a creek running down from it into the valley in which we have been traveling. This creek, and the valley into which it flows, I propose calling after Major Frederick Dodge, the Indian agent of the Pi-Utes and Washos, who was so courteous to my party, and myself, at Genoa. The pass referred to, at the head of this creek, Mr. Reese has examined suf- ficiently to assure me that a good wagon-road can be got through it without a great deal of expense ; and, as he pronounces, after examination, the corresponding pass in the next western range, lying^nearest and east of the sink, or north lake of Carson, capable of being also made practicable without a very great deal of lalwr, a wagon- road could be made direct from Dodge Valley through to the North Carson Lake, which would reduce the intervals between water to 15 miles. He also reports that cedars are to be found on the mountain-ranges at this inter- val. This, then, would be also the route for the telegraph. The road might keep to the north or south of North Carson Lake, as might be deemed expedient, and the bend of Carson River could be cut oif from its crossing near north end of South Carson Lake, to a point higher up, so as to make the interval Ijetvveen grass and water 15 to 25 miles, as might be found best. This route, as I have already noted, the guide says 108 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. is now perfectly practicable for pack animals and stock, and is a most capital one for feed and water. It will at once, then, ba seen that in the improvement of the route, at any future period, the change referred to should by all means be made. The Indians rep- resent that the snow falls in Dodge Valley as much as 2 feet deep, and that in some winters there is scarcely any. They say that generally there is very little snow from Genoa to the Se-day-e Mountains. July 2, Camp No. 8, Edward Creek, Dodge Valleij. — Longitude, 117° 31' 42"; lat- itude, 39° 28' 56"; altitude above the sea, 5,486 feet; thermometer at 6 a. m., 71". Private Collamer returned from the guide's party at sunrise, and reports that he rode till 12 midnight, then took 2 hours sleep, and his mule having given out, he came the rest of the way to camp on foot. He therefoi-e is our guide to-day. Mr. Thompson left us at half past 7 for Genoa, and intends going by the way of North Carson Lake.* We at the same time decamp, our coui-se being southeast up the canon of Edward Creek, the purpose being to cross the Se-day-e range. After traveling 7 miles, at half past 1, go into camp in superior grass, and on the babbling Edward Creek, three- fourths of a mile short of summit of pass. The road up the canon is good and of excellent grade. A few patches of snow seen on the highest ridges of the Se-day-e Moiintains. The piuon is almost the only sijlva of the mountains. Willow^s, aspens, and cottonwood line the creek. It is quite refreshing to men and animals to again toil in the caiions, where nature has been more lavish of the essen- tials of a good emigrant route, to wit, wood, water, and grass. July 3, Camp No. 9, Edward Creek Canon. — Se-day-e Mountains. Elevation above the sea, 7,022 feet; thermometer at 7 a. m., 76°. Remain in camp to-day, on account of its being Sunday, and the animals require the good mountain-grass which we have here in great abundance. Lieiitenants Murry and Putnam and Mr. McCarthy Avent this moniing through the pass at the head of. Edward Creek to Woodruff Valley, and report but little work to get through with the wagons. July 4, Camp No. 9, Edward Creek Canon. — Thermometer at 4.45 a. m., 62°.50. Move at 5.15 o'clock. Continue three-fourths of a mile up canon to summit of pass, 7,260 feet above the sea, and then turning eastwardly, in 1.5 miles, by branch ravine, reach Kirby Smith's Creek, the canon of which we follow down, 3.25 miles, to where * Mr. Thoiupsou, ou his returu to Carson Valley, at my reiiuest, addressed me the following letter on the practi- cability of a more direct route than mine from Edward Creek to Carson Valley : " Carson Valley, July 28, 1859. " Captain Simpson : " Sir : I have the honor to report to you my exploration on my rcturnitrip from your camji, on the 2d of July. " I crossed Dodge Valley, and took up a canon about half-way from Dodge Creek to the low gap ou the right. This canon is well adapted to a, wagou-road; it is about 200 yards wide, and buuch-grass stands 2 feet high and very thick. I crossed over this range, but the cauou ou the other side is very steep and difficult to go down. Then I came into another valley similar to Dodge Valley, but there is no stream tliat reaches into the valley. 1 crossed over this valley, and another high range of mountains, and came to the 'Forty-mile Desert,' on the old Humboldt route, and struck the road 17 miles fr8m Ragtown. " I did not see any route north of yours that is practicable, and I think yonrs is the only route in that vicinity that can be made passable. " Respectfully, yours, "J. A. TiiOMrsoN." This letter seems to militate against the report of my guide, Mr. Reese, on this subject, as given above (July l). but it doubtless is on account of Mr. Thompson having goue to the north of the siuk of Carson, and, therefore, much farther north than Ae did. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 109 it debouches into Woodi-uff Valley, and, continuing along creek 3.3 miles farther, encamp on it. About 2 miles from summit of pass is a rock i)rojecting from nortli side toward the stream, which made it necessary for us to go behind and over the rock on its north side; though Ijy twice bridging the stream, which is 8 feet wide and 1 deep, a road of unexceptionable grade could be made in the bottom of the creek. Trains going east, like ours, could easily take oiu- route, but going west, to do so they would be obHged to doable up a steep ascent for about lUO feet. About 2 miles farther down the canon there was another bad place where the teams had to double to ascend from the bottom of the creek to the top of the bank, and from which they again immediately descended to the creek. A very little labor, however, would be required to carry the road along the bottom at this point. Road to-day near summit of pass, east side, for 1.5 miles, very rough from roi-ks which ought to be removed, and requiring improvement at points along creek, as above. Journey, 8.5 miles. On rough portion of road broke tongue of large ambu- lance, a coupling-pole of one of the wagons, and a wheel of small ambulance. There is a great deal of grass in Smith's Cailon and the at to get into it again, probably, until near Camp Floyd. One mile further reat-li a spring, which I call Fountain Spring, on account of its welling up like a fountain. Here is an abundance of water of good quality, but the grass is scant and alkaline. There are, howevei", two or three acres of rush-grass about it, which woidd answer for a small party. The pools are tinged with red, probably from ferruginous causes. Six and three-tenths miles farther across the valley (Ko-bah) we come to a creek, which. 112 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. on account of the color of the water, I call Clay Creek. The water exists in holes, bnt is pronounced constant by the Indians. There is a great deal of grass on different portions of it. Train got into camp at half past 2. Ko-bah Valley, such as described in outward route. Journey 16.1 miles. Road good. Showers all around us to-day, with thunder and lightning, and this e\ening the rain fell in torrents, and the lightning and thunder were severe. Another beautiful rainbow just l)efore sundown, the third I have seen in the past week. ^Ir. Reese informs me that these rains at this season are a great anomaly. The ordinary rainy season in Carson Valley is from the last of October to some time in May; and some- times they have a little rain in June. Mr. Lowry says that in California thunder and lightning are scarcely known. I call the isolated mount just to the west of north of our camp after this last-mentioned gentleman. As we have probably left our westward route, not to join it again until near Camp Floyd, it is proper here to note that up to the last junction of the two routes, 7.4 miles back fi-om our ])resent camp, we have shortened our outward route, by the short cuts we have made, '21.8 miles; and if the short cut across Ko-bah Valley, noted by the (lotted line, which is practicable, is taken, the outward route has been shortened fully 30 miles. July 10, Camp No. 15, Clay Creel; Ko-hah VaUei/.—hongitivle 116° 05' 45"; lat- itude 39° 33' 24"; elevation above the sea, 5,998 feet; thei-mometer, at 5.20 a. m., 51°. First clear, sunny morning we have had for several days. Intending to travel only al)out 5 miles to reach a better camp-ground, we did not move till half past 6. The rain of last evening, copious as it was, has made but little impression on the soil, so porous and absorbent is it. Immediately at camp, cross Clay Creek by an excellent crossing, and traveling in a northeasterly direction, a range of mountains lying off to our rioiit about 2 miles, in 5.2 miles reach some fine springs (three or four in number), which I call after Mr. William Lee, one of my assistants. These springs are in a nar- row grassv outshoot of Ko-bah Valley, and the pasture in the vicinity being abundant, is a favorable jilace to encamp. At these springs we found Wilson Lambert and Steven.son, two of the guide party, encamped, drying their clothes. They report that they have been 45 miles ahead, and in consequence of their mules giving out, were not able to join us yesterday. The prospect ahead, according to them, is unftxvorable. There is water about 10 miles ahead, and thence about 9 miles beyond, but they both represent the We-a-bah range of mountains, over which the route would lie, impracticable for wagons. Ute Pete, they say, left their party tlu-ee days since to go to the mail-station on our outward route, in Butte. Valley, for the purpose of procm-ing the Indian who had shown the water before, and has not siiace been heard fi-om. Here there is apparently a baulk. The guides persist in representing the mountain range ahead impracticable, and it woiild seem that I am after all forced to join my old route, and go through Cho-kup's Pass, which, on account of its stee])ness, is not so good as I could like. To sti-ike off from these springs would make the turn in the road too abrupt. I have, therefore, ordered the party to return immediately to om- old camp ground of last night, on Clay Creek, so as to make the divergence to old road as slight as possible. Train reached old camp at 15 minutes to 11 p. m. REPORT AND JOURNAL. 113 After rotuniiny to canii), I called Stevenson ao-ain, and liad another talk witli liim and Mr. Reese aliont the prospect ahead. He (Stevenson) is not .so decided about the new pass in the We-a-bah Mountains bein<>- so impracticable as he this moniino- repre- sented it. I have, therefore, some little hope that we may yet, by a more thorough examination, get tlu-ough the mountains ahead of us, without being forced to take our old road thnnigh Cho-kup's Pass. I have accordingly ordered Mr. Reese, Stevenson Lambert, and Private Collamer, with two pack-animals and 10 days' provisions, to o-o again forward and make a more thorough and conclusive examination of the i)asses. If a practicable pass is found Collamer is innnediately to return and report the fact. Rain to-da}- again around us, and a few drops upon us. July 11, Camp No. 15, Clay Creek. — Remained stationary to-da^', waitino- report fi-om guide's party. The fii'st clear day we have had iu 8 days. Took advantage of it to keep up our accnstomed astronomical observations. Observed east and west stars for time, Polaris for latitude, and took a double set of lunars, nsino- stars on each side of the moon for the purpose of eliminating errors. July 12, Clay Creek. — Pnvate Collamer came in just after 12 o'clock, (midnight,) and reported, to oiu- joy, a practicable pass in the range ahead of us, on the proposed coui-se of our new return-route. The pass had been fonnd bv Ute Pete, who, though he had been four days and tlu-ee nights without food, except roots, yet had been the instru- ment of finding us a pass, and thus ena1)ling ns to keep on our course. It appears that on his an-ival at the mail-station, in Butte Valley, he found it abandoned on account of the spring fading at that point, and the consequence was that he not oulv failed in seeing the Indian he was in search of, but Avas disappointed in getting anvthing to eat. All hands np at daybreak, but in consequence of the mules having been herded at a considerable distance, we did not get off till 25 minutes of 6. Thermometer, at 4.15 a. m., \'2h°. Retrace our steps to Lee's Springs, 5.2 miles, and turning to the right around the point of some low rolling hills, and threading a naiTow valley thickly clothed with different kinds of grass of luxuriant growth, in 2.5 miles get into a plain canon or pass of Colonel Cooper's range, which, in 1.5 miles, leads us into Pah-hun- nu-pe Valley. The rocks of this canon are quite fine, on account of their abrupt height and well-defined stratification and dip, the latter being about 40° to the northeast. In consequence of the number of swallows which build their nests in its walls, I call it Swallow Canon. Cedars crown its heights. Lea%ring this caiion we cross Pah-hun- nu-pe Valley, (elevation above the sea, 5,820 feet,) the cross range of mountains closing it at the south being about 5 miles distant, and the passes through it appearing practi- cable. To the southwest the ravines in this range are clothed with grass, and water appears to be coursing down them. Six miles from mouth of Swallow Canon brings us to the siidv of a fine creek, which comes from the pass tlu-ough the We-a-bah Moun- tains to wdiicli we are tending, which creek I call after Mr. Charles S. McCarthy, the indefotigable taxidermist of the party. We turn southwestwardly up along this creek, and in 2.1 miles, at 1.15, reach a locality where, amid excellent and superabund- ant hill and bottom grass and good wood fuel, we encamp. The stream at this point is 3 feet wide and 1 deep, and flows with a rapid current in a tolerable deep bed. Road, to-da^-, excellent: journey, 17.3 miles; soil, for first 3 miles in Kobah ^'al- 1.") B r 114 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. lev, a rich orass or meadow bottom ; in Pah-hun-nu-pe Valley it is argillo-arenaceous, in iilaces o-ravelly ; sahical Engineers. Capt. J. H. Simpson-, Cocjjs of Topogi-aphieal Engineers. The day spent in reporting by letter to General Johnston result of expedition to Uinta Vallev (report given above), and preparing for return to Fort Leaveu\\-ortli, via Fort Bridger. August 21, Cam}) Torherfs Creek, Round Prairie. — Whole party decamped this morning, on its return to the States. Course up tlie valley of the Timpanogos. Having reached the point where the road leaves the main branch of the Timpanogos, we encai^ped. Journey 1-4 miles. Since my exploration of this valley last fall a small settlement called Heber City, containing ten families, has sprung up in Round Prairie. The frost, tAvo weeks since, nipped the potatoes here, but did not permanently injure them; they are still growing finely, and already some are eatable and have been sold in our camp. Lieutenant Swaine and fixmily arrived, on their way to Camp Floyd, this after- noon, and have encamped near us. August 22, Camp, bend of Timpanogos liiver. — Longitude, 111° 26' 03" ; lati- tude, 40° 36' 15" ; thermometer at 8.30 a. m., 64°. Wishing to see if my route to Fort Bridger from Camp Floyd, via Timpanogos, Weber, and White Clay Crefek Valleys, opened last fall, can be shortened, I have directed Lieutenant Murry to proceed with the main party and wagon-train, independently of me, to Fort Bridger, by that route, and I take a party- of seven persons, including my assistant, Mr. Englemann, with two pack-animals, for the purpose of exploring a more direct route by the way of Kamas Prairie, the east fork of the Weber and one of its tributaries, across to the head of White Clay Creek, or Bear River. I reached Fort Bridger with my party August 26, and find that Lieutenant Mun-y with the train and main party had readied there the day before. As my report to 144 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. General Johnston of tlie results of my side reconnaissance is sufficiently explicit, I insert an extract from it below instead of the journal. I refer the reader to my pub- lished report, before adverted to, to be found in Senate Executive Document No. 40, Thirty-fifth Congress, Second session, for a detailed account of my route of last fall, pursued by Lieutenant Murry, as also of Kamas Prairie, and other portions of country contiguous. I met Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman, Fifth Lifantry, with a battalion of recruits and train of -vAagons, on my route between the Muddy and Sulphur Creeks, and he expressed himself as being very much pleased, as far as he had gone on it from Fort Eridger. Fort Bridger, Utah, August 27, 1859. Major : I have the honor to report that, ^vishing to improve if possible my route of last fall from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger, by avoiding the worst portion of it, White Clay Creek, in whole or in part, I left the main portion of my party en route, in Timpanogos Valley, for Fort Bridger, August 22, and with an escort of four di-a- goons, three civil employes, and a couple of guides, who professed, each, to know dijfferent portions of the country, proceeded to make the exploration requisite for the purpose. Our provisions and necessary equipage were carried on two pack-mides. I found a feasible wagon-route as follows : Leave my old route at a point in Timpanogos Valley, in sight of Avhere the road commences to ascend the steep portion of the divide between the Timpanogos and Silver Creeks, that is, about a mile below the foot of the ascent ; from this point pass up on the top of a low spur, with good and regular gTade, to near summit ; and thence, by taking advantage of the swales or vales of the divide, pass along their sides to the summit of the divide, 2.5 miles from the branch of the Timpanogos you have left ; elevation above the sea, 6,955 feet ; thence taking doA^Ti a ravine of good grade (general direction east), which widens gradually into a fine, wide vale, full of grass, in 3 miles jou reach Kamas Prairie, 6,244 feet above the sea ; thence in a course very nearly direct to the mouth of the canon of the east branch of Web^r (bearing slightly to the right of it), in about 7.25 miles, you cross Kamas Prairie over very good ground, and reach the east fork of Weber, which you ford ; thence pass up the canon of this fork of Weber 8.5 miles, about a mile of it tlu-ough thick aspen timber, the balance, principally in the bottom, covered with willows, which, however, are not large ; thence you leave the Weber and turn to the left up a rather narrow canon, which I call Clarke's Canon, after Captain Clarke of the Subsistence Department, where some cutting would be necessary through aspen and willows thickets, and two or three small points of hills sliould be taken oflP with the pick and shovel ; 4.5 miles up this canon, witli tolerable grade, brings you to the summit of the pass of the high range between the Weber and the heads of White Clay Creek; elevation of summit above the sea, 8,953 feet; thence, turning gradualh' to the right, skirt closely for 9.25 miles the high ridge of the mountain range, keeping just below it and crossing through aspen thickets, a number of the heads of the tributaries of White Clay Creek, you are brought over a A^ery steeply-rolling and rich country to the main branch of White Cla}' Creek ; thence, in 3.5 miles, down this main branch, with good grade, you connect at the lower end of the upper canon of White Clay Creek with my Avagon-road of last fall. This is one EEPORT AND JOURNAL. 145 connection. Another wonld be, not to go down entirely to the ohl ro;ul, l)ut, passing down the branch only about a mile, to cross it and, turning by a lieavy side-cut for about 100 yards up a high ridge on the right, strike over so as to join the old road about 8 or 9 miles above the point of junction with old road above mentioned. The first connection would shorten the present Timpanogos route about 7 miles ; the second about 12. The first route could be ojiened by any command equal to a company in t^>enty days between Fort Bridger and Camp Floyd. The second would require a da}' or two longer. In respect to the character of the route it Avould be shorter as stated than my old route, and the bottom of the Weber, though moist and principally covered with willows, Avoukl funush a drier road than White Clay Creek bottom ; but the objections to it are that, though the grass along it might prove sufficient, yet for 9 miles along the north side of the range, between the Weber and Wliite Clay Creek, the road would be exceedingly hilly, and, as the soil is very rich, would cut np considerably until it could become packed by use. Another objection is that, on this high mountain range, the road could not be used early in the spring or late in the fall, on account of sno^^'. Taking the advantag-es and disadvantages together, and" the fact that during dry weather mj^ road of last fall down the valley of White Clay Creek is as good a one in every respect, almost, as needs be, as all who w^ill travel over it at snch times, I think, wall testify ; and that when the country is wet the newly proposed route would be almost, if not quite, as exceptionable on that account as the old, and the ti'ains would in preference take the old Echo Canon route as far as the Weber, and then tiu-n iip the Weber to join my Timpanogos route ; it is scarcely, I think, expedient that the route I have just explored should be opened, at least by the troops. Lieutenant ]\Iurry and Lieutanant Putnam report that they had not the slightest difficulty in getting the train of my party over my White Clay Creek route, and the fact that the traveling time from Camp^ Floyd to Fort Bridger was only 8.5 days, and that in every instance they got into camp before 6 in the afternoon, are eA'idences in favor of the route. There is a slough, however, about one-fourth of a mile to the east of the main branch of Bear River Avhich should be corduroyed or causewayed with logs without delay. Ten men, with two wagons and sharp axes, might do it on the ground in two days. This done, in ordinary dry weather the road will be a very good one, and by some considerable outlay in causewaying in places in the bottom of AVliite Claj- Creek it could be made a good road at all times. I regret to say that in my recoimaissance I lost a dragoon horse and one nnile, which could nc)t be turned Ijack to camp, in a thick aspen thicket after dark. Every exertion was made to recover them, I stopping a day for the purpose, but with no avail. The guides have promised, if possible, on their return to find them, and one of them to take them into Camp Floyd, as w^ell as a pack-saddle I was obliged to leave. The names of these guides are Charles E. Colton and Hiram (!)akes. They live at Heber City in Round Prairie, and either of them, if called upon, would show the i-oute I have described. It might be best, instead of taking up the bottom of the Clarke's Canon from the 19 B u 146 lOXPLOliATlONS ACKOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Webei" to the Uinta Divide, to run the road up, and on top of, the ridge on either side of the canon, as might be found expedient. I expect to leave for Fort Leavenworth Monday morning, the 29th instant. I am, major, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. H. Simpson, Captain Corps Topoyraplikal Engineers. Major F. J. Porter, Assistant Adjutant-General, Camp Floyd, Utah. Ani/nst27, Fort Brid//er.— Longitude, IW 23' 47"; latitude, 41^ 20' 28"; alti- tude above the sea, 6,65(5 feet; thermometer at 5.30 a. m., 37°. 5. Replenishing siij)plies and preparing for a move on the 29th. AnrjHst 28, Fort Bridger. — Lieutenant-Colonel Canby, the commanding officer of this post, informs me that oats, spring wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips, grow well in this locality ; beets tolerably well. The sutler, Judge Carter, has a farm at Camp Supply, 12 miles higher up, on Smith's Creek, where agriculture does better than at this point, owing, as it is supposed, to the winds in that direction keeping off the frost. The season this summer, however, has been much better than usual, more rain having fallen than was ever known before. Colonel Canby has had a saw-mill put up by the soldiers, made iip of the parts of two mills, which saws 4,000 feet per day, and the cost per 1,000 feet does not exceed SlO. To-day a train of about 100 hand-carts passed the fort, drawn by Mormon men and women, all having a sort of harness suitable for the work. I did not see it, but the officers who did pronounced it a most lamentable sight. Aurjud 29, Fort Bridr/er. — My party left this morning, in prosecution of its march eastward to Leavenworth, via South Pass. Arrived at Fort Laramie September 17, Fort Kearney October 3, and Fort Leavenworth October 15. As this roiite has been so frequently reported on by others it will be unnecessary for me to say anything in relation to it. I tliink it proper, however, to record the singular meteorological pli(3nomenon, which I Avitnessed on the Big Sandy, on the night of the 1st of September, and I do it by inserting the letter 1 addressed to Professor Henry, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, on the subject. "Camp No. 33, North Fohk of Platte River, " Six Hundred and Ninety-two Miles from Camp Floyd, "En route to Fort Leavenworth, September 23, 1859. " Dear Sir : Although keeping a meteorological diary in my reconnaissance, which may eventually be brought to your notice, yet it has occurred to me that the remarkable phenomenon I witnessed on the night of the 1st of September instant, on the Big Sandy, a branch of Green River, in latitude about 42 "^ north, and longitude 109° 50' west of Greenwich, ought to be brought to your attention at once, so that it may be used in any comparison you might wish to make of like phenomenon- which might have been noticed before or at the same period in other portions of the globe. "I had retired to bed and gone to sleep, when waking up and perceiving it quite REPORT AND JOURNAL. 147 light and no one stirring in ciunp, I began to think thnt the cooks liad not l)ecn called by the guard, and that we were likely to have a late start for the day. Taking up my watch, which was lying on the table near me, I could distinctly read on its metallic face the time of the night, and, to my sui'prise, found it was only 11 o'clock. Before I went to bed, about 9 o'clock, the moon had set, and I recollected that it was with some difficulty I had been able to discern the figures of a couple of my assistants who were taking astronomical observations, though they were not far from me. These facts were curious, and I leaped to the front of my tent to clear up the matter. As soon as I looked out the anomaly was explained. About two-thirds of the whole southern celestial concave was one sheet of beautiful roseate light. "For a while the light continued in a state of repose, the most concentrated portion forming a belt, and extending from a point on the horizon a few degrees north of east (about 10) clear across the heavens to a point on the horizon about due west. From this belt the light, with its roseate hue, was diffused southwardly all over the heavens, with marked distinctness, down to the arc of a circle, the angle of whose plane with the horizon was about 10 degrees. "For a period, as stated, the phase of the phenomenon appeared constant; it then changed gradually, alternately varying to a less or greater intensity, the rosy light still remaining diffused. At length, however, the light assumed a more intense form and shot up in wliitish coruscations from the base or lower limit of the illuminated portion to the apex or crown, which was about 20° to the south of the zenith; the appearance of the concave all this while being that of an illuminated globe di\dded into an innumerable number of meridians, and the vanishing-point or apparent pole the apex referred to. "At the time of the phenomenon, I observed the magnetic needle, but could not perceive that it was sensibly affected by it. It being, however, only a pocket one, it could not, of course, be capable of expressing any but very large perturbations. "The phenomenon was so extraordinary and beautiful that I called up my assist- ants to observe it. It then appeared that one' of them (Mr. Jagiello) had observed it at 10 o'clock, and, as it disappeared about 12, it must have lasted about 2 hours. "The aurora borealis, as seen north of the zenith, is a phenomenon of frequent occurrence ; but a southern illumination, hke that I have described, I have never before seen, and I leave it to those who are famihar with such subjects to explain the cause.* "I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "J. H. Simpson. ^^ Captain Corps Topographical Engineers. " Professor Joseph Henry, LL. D., "Secretary of Smithsonian Instltidion, Washington, D. C." * I have received the following reply to this letter from Professor Henry : " Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C, Odoier 25, 1859. "Deah Sin: I write to thank you for your very interesting letter relative to the aurora borealis of the 1st of September, which is important, particularly on account of its locality and the precision with which you have de- scribed the phenomena. " The information of the corona in your locality is an interesting fact, and, in connection with the other ohserv.a- tions of a similar kind in other places, will furnish the data for settling some points of importance in the theory of this 148 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. I cannot, however, conclude my report without expressing my acknowledgments to Maj. Hannibal Day, Second Regiment Infantry, the officer commanding at Fort Laramie, for his very courteous and acceptable treatment of the party while we were encamped near his post. It was in the cemetery of this post we buried Mr. Walter Lowry, the gentleman Avho had joined us at Genoa (see journal of June 20 and 24), and who accompanied us, with the expectation that the trip would be of benefit to his health, and that he would be enabled to reach his friends in Philadelphia. His disease was of a pulmonary character, and although at the outset of the journey he rallied a little and was enabled to ride for an hour or two on horseback, before he reached Camp Floyd he found himself incapable of this, and was necessitated to confine him- self to the carriage, to which he had eventually to be carried bodily. Major Day kindly permitted him to be cared for at the hospital, and Assistant Surgeon Johns rendered him all the medical aid he required. He survived, however, only one day after he reached the post. It is a pleasure to me to record the disinterested kindness of the sutlers of the post, Messrs. Ward and Fitzhugh, in disposing of the effects of the deceased, forwarding the proceeds to his friends, and placing-, at my request, a memorial of him upon his grave. The deceased had for several years been connected with the papers in San Francisco, as commercial editor, and was highly esteemed by those Avho knew him. On the 19th October, having shipped at Fort Leavenworth for Washington our instruments, geological, botanical, and other specimens, illustrative of the country we had explored, and discharged all the party except my assistants I left for the purpose of repairing to the seat of Government and reporting to the Adjutant-General. All of which is very respectfully submitted. J. H. Simpson, Captain Corps of Topographical Enf/incers, U. S. Army. To Col. J. J. Abert, Chief Corps Topiographical Engineers. meteor. I presume the magnetic ueodle which you observed was a short one, supported on a point, and, therefore, no action, except one of very unusual intensity, could be observed. The needles generally used for this purpose are those suspended by a single fiber of silk, and the deviations observed by the reflection of the divisions of a scale into the axis of a telescope. Theoretically, however, the action of the aurora on the needle ought to be very uncertain, since if the aurora be an electric discharge to the earth, no action on the needle could be anticipated when this discharge took place with equal intensity east and west of the needle. If, however, the action was much more powerful to the ■west than to the east, a slight deviation in one direction or the other ought to be observed. "We are very anxious to obtain the result of your meteorological observations. They will not only be interest- ing in themselves when published as a part of your report, but particularly so to us, in studying the phenomena of the progress of atmospheric disturbances. You are almost in the very region of the great laboratory of American storms, and every observation you may record in regard to the weather may prove of special interest. " Very respectfully, yours, "Joseph Henky. " To Capt. J. H. Simpson." [I would remark, in relation to the above letter, in respect to the importance of having a proper needle for the discovery of slight perturbations from terrestrial or other causes, that we had with us a unitilar magnetometer, the same which Dr. Kane had on his last Arctic expedition, and which could be converted into a declinometer ; but on account of the unseasonable and unexpected occurrence of the phenomena referred to, and although we observed results from it on other occasions, which are given in my report, we did not make use of it on this. ] EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIXES A, B, AND C. ITINERARIES OF WAGON-ROUTES. ^PFEISTDIX J^. ITINERAKY OF THE MORE NORTHERN OR OUTWARD WAGON-ROUTE FROII CAMP FLOYD, UTAH, TO GENOA, IN CARSON VALLEY. Meadow Creek, mail station - General Jolinston's Pass, Gu.yot ranso, tliree-fourtlis of a mile below summit, on west side ; spriufis to right and left of road : but little water, and probably not constant Simpson Sprinj;, mail station ; Water not abundant : till water-kegs for crossinfr the desert, which commences here -. Devil's Hole : Water quite brackish ; animals can only be watered by bucket Fish Spring, mail station : Water brackish, but palatable when cool ; grass saline "Warm Spring Sulphur Spring: Water in abundance, and palatable; grass also abundant Fine Spring, Pleasant Valley, Goshoot range, mail station East side of Antelope Valley Spring Valley : Best grass oh west bench of valley Mouth of Spring Creek Spring Creek: Grass and wood along creek for 3J miles above this point Summit of pass of Un-go-we-ah range Shell Creek, east side of Steptoe Valley, mail station Stiptoe Creek : Dry in summer Mouth of Egan Caiion. in Montim range: Grass on sido-liills West sido-of Butte Valley : Water very scant ; grass IJ miles northeast from water-hole. It is probable that since Captain Simpson's explorations the mail station at this point baa been changed to another and better locality in vicinity Spring in Too-muntz range Spring in Ruby Valley, mail station : Grass on west side of valley South Fork of Humboldt Small mountain stream, west side of valley of South Fork of Humboldt; grass toward the mount- Summit of Chn-kups Pass, of Weah-bah range "West slope of We-ah-bah range ■ Spring in Pah-hun-nupe Valley -_-.-■ Sulphur Spring, west side of Pah-hnnnupe Valley : Marsh grass ; a bettor bunch grass In canon northwest ot spring -- Summit of Cooper's range Shen-wi-to or Willow Creek, in Ko-bah Valley : Some ten miles saved by taking a southwest di- rection from this camp, as indicated on map. to water: west slope of Pah-rea Mountain Junction with Captain Simpson's return route : Take right hand .- Twin Spring: Sergeant Ban's Springs, half mile west ; little grass Junction of routes Won.s-in-danime or Antelope Creek: Abundance of wood, water, and grass Fork of road : Take left hand Saw-wid Creek: Water running one mile above; grass in canon Dry Creek : Water running above road j grass in canon Siiiuniit of Pah-rea range lOf 1 Fork of roads: Take left hand Month of Won-a-bo-no-po Canon Simpson's Park: Abundance (if water and grass Summit of -Pe-er.re.ah, or High Mountain range Fork of roads: Take left band Reese's River : Contains trout ; fuel to be brought Forks of road : Take right hand ; (left hand 4 miles shorter, but more rugged over the Se-da.v-e ^lountain range. This last best early in the 8ea.son for trains going wea>, and always best for herds : water and grass at intervals of ij, 10, 3, 3, 3, 7, 8 ; total, 36J miles to .junction with more nitrthern roail) Kirbv Smith's Creek, Woodrnft" Valley : Some grass along creek; abundant within the raOon of same creek Mouth of Kirby .Smith's Creek Canon Road leaves Smith's C,reek Summit of Pass of Se-day-e Mountains Eli ward Creek Leave Edward Creek, in Dodge Valley -_ 96.2 la.! 5 138.4 l.iO. 9 169.9 G. W. G. W. ( Wil. ( and S. 181.0 194.3 219.4 224.4 233.6 286.5 303. 0 305.0 33(i.4 341.9 346.9 374.9 377.7 380.9 3A3.9 3a5.2 38.1.7 392.7 G.W. "s." 152 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Appendix A. — Itinerary of the more northern or outward wagon-route from Gamp Floyd, &c» — Cont'd. Cold SpriDg : From this point, as far as Carson Lake, water and graos very scarce ; water-keg should be filled at this point to cross desert . - , Cross small branch and join the other road; water sometimes running ; sometimes stagnant in holes in small quantities , Gibraltar Creek, Middle Gate: Early in the season water running; at other times got by dig- ging ; at these times only sufficient tor small parties ; grass in "vicinity, but scarce Forks of road ; Take left hand Sulphur Spring: Little or no grass ; water very scant Carson Lake: Take road going south along the lake; rushes, but grass scarce; fuel brought; grass 5 miles north on lake Forks of road : Take right hand Leave Carson Lake : Fuel brought Carson River : Wood, water, and grass from this point up along river Opposite Pleasant Grove : Cross Caraou River here and join old Humboldt River road ; can keep on along soutb side of River and cross at China Town '.. The river at Pleasant Grove and China Town only fordable late in the seasou. Carson City, Eagle Valley Genoa, (or regarding the cut-oflf indicated between Shu-wi-te Creek and the Pah-re-ah range, which saves about 10 miles, the total distance from Camp Floyd to Genoa, by Captain Simp- son's more northern route, is 531 miles) 403.9 412.9 459.5 467 490.2 508.2 515.7 527.5 Note. — The distances were measured by an odometer. C. stands for camp ; W. for wood ; G. W. for greasewood ; S. for sage ; Wil. for willow ; W. for water ; G. for grass ; and R. for rushes. This itinerary has been prepared for emigrants ; the cuts-off made by Captain S. on his return route to Camp Floyd being regarded. From She-u-wi-te Creek, west, therefore, it does not in eveiy instance give the day's journey as indicated in journal. In order to cross the desert between Simpson Spring and Fish Spring, and be- tween Cold Spring and Carson Lake, with comfort, water-kegs should be provided for the persons of the party, and at least two grain-feeds for the draught- animals, one for each desert. a.f»f»e:is^dix n ITINERARY OF MORE SOUTHERN OR RETURN WAGON-ROUTE FROM GENOA, IN CARSON VALLEY, OVER THE GREAT BASIN, TO CAMP FLOYU, UTAH. Carson City, Ea IS4.S 163.0 330.9 '344.9 Wat. Wat Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat. Wat 154 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. Itinerary of more southern or return route from Oenoa, ttc — Coutinued. SumiDit of pass of ITn-po-we-ab or Terry raniie (somo springs anil grass about U miles east of summit, to rij;Iit of roail, in branch of Captain Little's CJanoii) Near mouth of Little's Canon: The left-band road goes direct to Turnley's Spring, and is the shortest Springs, Antelope Valley : Grass and cedars abundant half mile north Turnley's Spring , Summit of pass of Totts-arr or Gosboot range Un-go-pab, or Red Springs : Union Peak opposite Kush Spring (small), Crosman Valley Crosman Creek, 3 feet wide. 1 deep ; grass and water abundant , Plympton's Springs: Several in compass of balf a mile, plenty of grass Rush Pond : little or no grass ; a few rushes Summit of pass of House range Cbapin's Springs : Grass not abundant Tyler's Springs : Grass limited ; water -kegs should be filled here to cross desert Summit of pass of Thomas' range Good Indian Spring, McDowell Mountains : A very small spring here ; wator-trougb fixed for the collection and preservation of the water ; grass and wood abundant Prince's Creek, Champlin Mountains Portar Creek, Porter Valley ; AVood, water, and grass abundant Brewer's Spring: "Wood, water, and grass abundant Jimction with outward route, in General Johnston's Pass of the Guyot range Meadow Creek '. Camp Floyd; Grass and wood in Oquirr Monntains, 3 miles off 503. C 519.6 R^X 1 598.6 5:t9. 9 549.9 568.1 G. W. Wil. G. W. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat. Wat Wat. Wat Wat KoTE.— The distances wei'e measured by an odometer. C. stands for camp ; W. for wood ; G. W. for greasewood ; S. for sage (Arfoncsia) ; Wil. for willows; Wat. for water ; G. for grass ; and R. for rushes. In order to cross the desert, between Carson Lake and Cold Spring, and between Tyler's S2:)ring and Prince's Creek, water-kegs should be provided for the persons of the party, and at least two grain-feeds for the draught-animals, one for each desert. j^I^PElNTDIX C ITINERARY OF A WAGON-ROUTE FROM FORT BRIDGER TO CAMP FLOYD. Fort Bridger - Canon Black's Fork Muddy Creek Last water in ravine E ast Branch, Sulphur Creek , Weat Branch, Sulphur Creek Eafit Branch, Bear River West or Main Branch of Bear River , First Camp on White Clay Creek Foot of upper caiion : good camps in localities down to mouth of White Clay Creek Junction ot' White Clay Creek with Weber River aud old Parley's Park road ; turn up the Weber . Good camps up the Weber to point where you leave it to cross divide between it and Silver Creek . Silver Creek : Turn up the creek Leave Silver Creek First camp on Ti mpanogos River Good camps at intervals to commencement of canon , Beautiful cascade Toll-bridce over Timpanogos Mouth of Tiropanogos Canon Battle Creek (Pleasant Grove) : Fuel should be brought ; forage purchasable American Fork (Lake City) : Fuel should be brought ; forage purchasable Lebi : Fuel should be brought: forage purchasable Toll bridge over Jordan : Fuel should be brought Camp Floyd: Fuel and grass in the mountains, SJ miles off 131 If I 28 SliJ 4ti 511 704 82J P8J 92} 9H1 1191 12U 124} 1-MJ Wat Wat. Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat Wat. Wat. Wat Note. — The distances were measured by an odometer. W. stands for wood ; for sage ; Wat. for water ; Wil. for willows ; and G. for grass. EXPLOEATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ArrENDix I). ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. ^Pi>]i;NJ3i:K 13. ASTRONOMICAL onSERVATIONS AND GE(JaKAPHICAL POSITIONS OF TIIK MOST IMPORTANT POINTS. Tlie subjoined letters (if Lieut. H. 8. Putnian, TopogTai)liic;il Engineers, and of Mr. 1). Ct. Major, with the Table of Geographical Positions, give all needful informa- tion in resi^ect to this portion of the expedition. The sextant observations Avere chietiy made by my assistant, Lieut. J. L. K. Smith, Topographical Engineers ; the transit observations by Lieut. H. S. Putman, and those for lunar distance by both these oiH- cers and myself, the altitude of the moon and star, as well as the angular distance, being- taken at the same instant of time. The chief fact noticeable in the results is the disagreement between our longitudes and those of Colonel Fremont at Great Salt Lake City, the north bend of Walker's River, and at Genoa, the western termination of our routes, where our explorations have been either coincident or so closely approximate as to enable us to institute a comparison. In Fremont's second expedition (1843-44) he makes the longitude of the sum- mit of Fremont Lsland, in Gi-eat Salt Lake, west of Greenwich 112° 21' 05". Accord- ing to Stansbury's rigid triangular survey of Great Salt Lake, Salt Lake City is east oi this summit 25' 39". This makes the longitude of Salt Lake City, as derived from Fi-emont's observations in second expedition, 111° 55' 26". In Fremont's report of this expedition he remarks that "in this exploration, it became evident that the longitudes established during the campaign of 1842 were col- lectively thrown too far to the westward." He therefore abandons his detei-minations of his first expeditions, and assumes as correct those of his second. In his third expedition (of 1845-'4G) he does not compare his longitudes with those of his j^revious expedi- tions; but, instituting a comparison myself, I find the result as follows: In this third expedition he makes one set of transit observations October 20, 1845, of the moon and moon-culminating stars, at the present site of Great Salt Lake City, and determines its longitude to be 112° 06' 08". That is, he makes the longitude of Salt Lake City in this expedition 10' 42" greater than in his second; or, in other words, moves collec- tively his positions back again westwardly 10' 42". Now our observations of the transit of the moon and moon-culminating stars at Camp Floyd, consisting of five complete sets, made during two lunations, in the months of March and April, 1858, give a resulting longitude for this post of 112° 08' 07". Chronometrically, I found Great Salt Lake City east of Camp Floyd, 13' 07". This 160 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. gives a resulting longitude for Great Salt Lake City, according to our observations, of 111° 55' 00", differing from Fremont's, in liis second expedition, only 26", and from his determinations in his third expedition, 11' 08". This result, I think, is corrobora- tive of the accuracy of his longitude, as determined in his second expedition, and of our own.* Again, Fremont makes the longitude of the most northern bend of Walker's River, in his third expedition, 119° 05' 23". We make the longitude of this same bend, by observations of east and west stars and lunar distances, 118° 56' 00", differing from his 09' 23", but as our station appears to have been about 2' fiirther west than his, the disagreement between us amounts to about 11' 23".t Thus far it will be noticed our disagreements have been 11' 08" at Salt Lake City, and 11' 23" at the most northern bend of Walker; but from this point westward, within a measured distance, by odometer, of only 60 miles along our route, and a difference of longitude of only 46' 50", our longitudes become suddenly so variant, as at the junction of the east and west branches of Carson River, at the base of the Sien-a Nevada, to make us differ as much as 21' 30". Supposing, possibly, that I might have been in error, I have examined my map and notes critically upon this point, and feel confident that this suddenly enlarged discrepancy is not due to any errors we have committed. Besides, what makes me more disposed to think that the eiTor does not lie with us is that Mr. George H. Goddard, the ci^-il engineer who was intrusted by the State of Cahfornia, in 1855, Avith the determination of the eastern boundaiy of that State, makes the longitude of Genoa 119° 48' 25", J or 7' 55" greater than mine, while Fremont's of this point, so far as it can be determined from its proximity to the junc- tion of the east and west forks of Carson River, laid down on his map of his expedi- tion of 1845-46, is 21' 30" greater. I have been thus particular in giving the points of difference between Fremont's longitudes and my own, from the circumstance that they have been hitherto regarded as correct, and succeeding explorers have referred their longitudes clu'onometrically to them as standards. Before dismissing this subject, I cannot but bring to the attention of the Bureau the great importance of sending into the field, and of officers intrusted with expeditions of securing, the very best chronometers and astronomical instruments which can be purchased. A hundred dollars or more on a chronometer or other field-instrument may insure results which may be reliable and permanent; whereas a false economy which would be content with anything less will frequently jeopard the results of the whole expedition, and cause the expenditure of thousands of dollars, as well as the opportu- nity of gaining correct geographical knowledge, to have been entirely nugatory. I would also state that the very best possible way we found of carrying our chronometers (four in number) Avas to place them in a soft-cushioned box prepared for the purpose,'and to strap the box on the middle seat of an easy ambulance or spring- wagon. Our box-chronometer we allowed to play freely in the gimbals, only placing •My latitude of Great Salt Lake City dift'ers fiom rr(5iuont's 10" ; from Stausbury's, 3". t Oiir latitude of this bend agrees within 2G". ; Mr. Goddard appears to bavo been supplied with all the requisite astronomical instruments to insure good results. See Annual Report of Surveyor-General of California, Iboo, pp. 92-124. ^PPEIN^DIX E. EEPOKT ON THE BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AND ON THE COMPUTATION OF THE ALTITUDES THEREEROM, BY HENRY ENGELMANN, GEOLOGIST AND METEOROLOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION. Washington, D. C, Beconher 5, 18G0. Sir: I herewith submit to you my report on tlie barometrical and meteorological observations taken during- the explorations under your command in Kansas, Nebraska, and Utah Ten-itories, 1858 and 1859; and on the computation of the altitudes from the same, upon which the protiles are based, of the routes traveled by parties under 3^our command between Fort Bridger, Utah, and- the Sieira Nevada. The observations cover a large area, and besides their value for the computation of altitudes, of which only those points west of Fort Bridger have been calculated, they afford an insight into the climatical conditions of the most elevated central portion of the North American continent. By their hirge number I have been enabled to deduce most striking results in regard to the fluctuations of the temperature and of the moisture of the atmosphere in the so-called Great Basin of Utah, which has an extremely continental climate, the like of which is only known to exist in the center of the vast continent of Asia, and also of several points in the jjlains, east of the Rocky Moimtains, the climate of which, although not quite as arid as that of the Basin, still differs very materially from that of the intermediate valley of the Mississippi River and of the Eastern States, and presents insurmountable obstacles to the successful occupa- tion of by far the largest portion of that region by any other than a nomadic popula- tion, the main interest of which cannot be agricultiire. From the records of the obser- vations given in full, much more interesting facts may be derived by their comparison with contemporaneous observations at other points, but my time has been too much limited to follow up the subject farther than I have done. I avail myself of this opportunity to acknowledge the valuable assistance rendered me during the prosecution of the surveys, by Capt. J. W. Phelps, Fourth Artillery, U. S. A., (now resigned,) at Camp Floyd, and by Messrs. Edward Jagiello and William Lee, who assisted me along the route. For the connnunication of some of the mete- orological records, which I have made use of in the computations, I am indebted to the Medical Department of the Army. I am also under obligation to Prof. A. D. Bache, Superintendent of the United States Coast Sui-vey, for some observations at San Fran- cisco, Cal., and for liberal access to the librai-y of the Smithsonian Institution, and 22 B u 170 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TOE GREAT BASIN OF UTAB. Other facilities offered to me by the distinguished Secretary of the Institution, Prof. Joseph Henry. I am, sir, your obedient servant, Henry Engelmaxn. Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topographical Engineers, U. S. A., In charge of Exploring Expedition. INSTRUMENTS. On starting- from Fort Leavenworth, we were provided with three cistern barom- eters, Nos. 1062, 1237, and 1279, made by James Green, of New York, with scales graduated down to 20 inches, and with verniers reading to thousandths of an inch. These instruments, as improved now by Mr. Green, wei'e again found to be admirably adapted to the wants of exploring expeditions, when they are ti-an sported over many hundreds of miles of rough mountain roads, and exposed to all accidents contingent to their daily use on the road and in camp. One of their principal advantages is the readiness with which they may be repaired in the field Avhen damaged by long use or broken by accidents, which will happen to the most careful observer. Against such emergencies we were provided with several glass tubes, pure mercury, and other requisites. A portable tripod was furnished by ]\Ir. Green with the instruments, and found very useful, indeed, indispensable. The immovable support which it gives can often not be obtained otherwise in the field, and adds to the correctness of the observa- tions and to the preservation of tlie instruments. We were also proAnded with aneroid barometers, which, however, were not used, as no reliable results could be expected from them at the elevation and in the climate where we might have needed them most. Besides these, we had a number of ther- mometers and a rain-gauge. OBSERVATIONS. Regular observations of the barometer, diy and wet bulb thermometers, cloudi- ness of the sky, direction and force of the wind, quantity of rain, &c., were kept up from the time of the ai-rival of the party at Fort Leavenworth, Kans., in May, 18.58, to our return there in October, 1859. As it was desirable to obtain observa- tions for as long a period as possible at each successive camp, and from the warmest to the coldest time of the day, the first observation was made soon after reaching a camp, and the last one shortly before leaAang it again, conforming, as much as possible, to the hours of 6 a. m., 9 a. m., 12 m., 3 p. m., 6 p. m., and 9 p. m., which were fixed upon as the regular hoiu's for observations when in camp. In the mountain regions, during the explorations between Camp Floyd, Utah, and Fort Bridger, Utah, and between Camp Floyd and Carson Valley, Utah, numerous observations were made on the road, with a view to the construction of the profile. Besides, a. very large number of hourly observations were most carefully made at every point where a protracted stay offered an opportunity, in order to obtain data for the determination of the daily variation of the atmospheric pressure, the temperature, the elastic force and weight of vapor, and the relative humidity of the different dis- tricts. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 171 UEmrCTION OF THE OliSERVATIONS. The first step, in ])vep;iring- the records for iliscussion and computation, is the reduction of the oliserved readings of tlie barometer to what wliich they would have been liad the temperature of the mercury been uniformly 32° Fahrenheit; for which pur- pose I made use of the tables of Prof A. Guyot, of Princeton, published by the Smith- sonian Institution. INSTRUMENTAL ERRORS. Next, the correction for instrumental error was applied. Before the barometers left the hands of the maker their scales were adjusted, so that they I'ead precisely Avitli the Smithsonian standard. Their comparative reading and the change which they had under- gone was then tested by a long series of observations, made at Fort Leavenworth, under the direction of Capt. J. W. Abert, Topographical Engineers, which were repeated at Fort Kearney by m3-self, and afterward in every stationary camp, and as often as it a})peared desirable. On the march we generally made use of only one barometer, to keep the others perfect for future service and comparison. It will be sufficient here to give the errors as they were found at different times, without giving all the details regarding the determination and origin of their changes. Table of zero-errors of the barometers. Barometers. Found during May, 1658, (in inclies En>'lish) End of .June, li^^8, it'i'om most reliable observers) Endof.Tulv, 1858 Alter ,\u(;ust30, 1858, (1062 liad been cleaned) Al'terSi-ptember 2, 1858 Alter S.-pti-raber Ifi, 18.18 In .J.-inuai V, 185ii. (A new tube had been inserted in 1002). In Jannafv. 18.')9, (ia79 hand been refitted) In Apiil, 1859 From JuuBl to 31, I8.)S Alter June ai. (A new tube had been inserted in 1379) . . . Fiom August 28, 1859, to end - 0.002 0.000 0. 1100 - 0 014 - 0.011 - 0.0-30 - 0.013 - 0.042 - 0.042 - 0.055 + 0.002 0.000 0.000 0. 0011 - 0.005 - 0.008 (*) (•) - O.002 - 0.004 - 0.00.-. - 0.005 - 0. 005 - 0.0(15 - 0.006 + 0.005 0. OUO 0.000 0.015 * Kept at Fort Bridper. I wish to call the attention of observers who might meet with similar circum- stances to the fact that, in determining these zero errors, I found a very valuable check in Part C, Table XXVII, of the second edition of the above-named Smithsonian Tables, which gives the depression of the mercurial column due to capillary action, with the internal diameter of the tube, and the height of the meniscus as arguments, reduced to English measure from a table of Delcros. The use of it may be seen from the following example : In January, 1869, at Camp P'loyd, I had to replace the original tube of barometer No. 1062, which had been broken, by a new one. The inner diam- eter of the latter was 0.16 inch, while that of the former had been 0.20 inch. Hav- ing performed the operation with all possible care, I waited some days, in order to give the in.strument time to obtain its normal conditions. I then compared it with the other, and found its zero-error equal to 0.042 inch. The meniscus of No. 1062 was now 0.024 inch high, which corresponds, according to the talile, to a depression of 0.064 inch. To correct for the capillary attraction of the old and wider tube, the maker 172 EXPLOllATIONS ACROSS TOE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. luul sliortenecl the scale 0.028 inch, as indicated by a mark on the brass tube. The apparent error, after the insertion of the new tube, ought, tlierefore, to have been 0.064 minus 0.028, ecjual to O.O.JG inch. That the direct comparison gave it a little larger, 0.042, mav be accoinited for by mv inability to measure the inner diameter of the tube to a fraction, as the beautifully clear sound of the instrument (produced when the mercury struck the closed end of the tube) indicated that the vacuum was perfect. Tlie result certainly was very satisfactory. It proved that the zero-eiTors of the instruments had been recorded correctly, or very nearh' so. I might, then, have shortened the scale, as the maker would have done in a similar case, being satisfied that this zero-error was not the consequence of a fault of the' instrument, but of the increased capillary depression in the narrower tube. I preferred, however, to leave the scale unchanged. In one case an accident happened to the two instruments, which, at the time, were the only ones in my possession. Some of the mules got entangled in the cords of the tent, and, pulling it down, threw the tripod, with l)oth barometers, to the ground. Air entered the vacuum of No. 1062, and rendered it temporarily unserviceable. A bubble of air also entered the tube of No. 1279, but left it again on turning the instru- ment, which, from all appearances, had not suffered any permanent damage. The sound of the tube seemed to indicate that the vacuum was still perfect. After the tube of No. 1062 had been refilled, Avith all possible precaution, I found the result of calculation closely corresponding with the result of the direct comparison of the instruments, and in this way I was again re-assured that No. 1279 had not suftered from the accident, an assiu'ance which I could not well have arrived at in any other way. These examples show how useful it is to keep account of the width of the tubes, the height of the meniscus, the clearness of the sound, and other observations in regai'd to the condition of the instruments. The thermometers — the attached as well as the detached one.s — also did not per- fectly agree with each other. I therefore tested their graduation by direct experiments, from which I calculated a table of corrections. The readings of the thennometer, as found in the records, were thus corrected whenever it was found necessary. MKTHOD OF COMPUTATIOX. ' I could scarcely hesitate in the selection of the method for computing the altitudes, since the one developed according to the requirements of the case during the compu- tation of the profiles of the Pacific Railroad surveys, and discussed by Lieut. Hemy L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers, in Vol. VI of the Reports (to which I refer for particulars), gives results which ma}" be regarded as absolutely correct, as demon- strated by Lieutenant Abbot, if suitable corrections can be obtained; and under less favorable cii'cumstances, the results are at least more generally reliable than those obtained in any other way. By the introduction of the corrections for horary and abnormal oscillations of the barometric column, if such can be obtained from points of similar climatical features, not too far distant, nor differing too much in altitude from the point the altitude of which is to Ije determined, all causes of error are elim- inated the more the nearer these conditions are fulfilled, including the eft'ects of the \ \ Rv/j/rraOo/i.r „/' r,i/j/.././/..\uiip.yo„ , Z/;.'/ ;,(.',/ w /;'.;■? Horai-v 0.soillali.m ., »pn> +.030 '+.'6i5" '-."603" +.026 + .031 + .032 + .032 + .0.10 +.023 +.012 "'' ■"' 1 7-4 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. No. I was deduced from 23 days' hom-ly observations taken at Fort Leaven- worth, Kans., from May 3 to 26, 1858, at an elevation of near 900 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperatni-e during that time was 59° Fahrenheit, the weather rainy and stomiy. The hoiu-ly variations were often obliterated by the ab- normal changes, and the amplitude of the diagram is, therefore, comparatively small; it coiresponds very nearly with that for the same month at Philadelphia. No. II was deduced from obsenations taken at Fort Kearney, Nebr., fi-om June 19 to July 1, 1858, at an elevation of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature was 7 7°. 5, the weather mostly fine, with the exception of some rains and high winds. Great abnormal variations took place during this interval, but I found that they did not change much the mean result. Therefore I eliminated only one very iiregular day, and calculated the table from the remaining 1 1 days, after cor- recting a few obvious irregularities. The values thus obtained are very satisfactory. No. Ill was deduced from 4 days' observations taken at Fort Laramie, Nebr., from July 30 to August 1, 1858, at an elevation of about 4,470 feet above the level of the sea, and with a mean temperature of 67^. The weather was rather favorable. The diagram has a marked sweeping shape. No. IV was deduced from observations taken at Fort Bridger, Utah, from Sep- tember 28 to October 7, 1858, at an elevation of 6,656 feet above the level of the sea. The weather turned out so stormy, and the. variations so irregular, that I had to reject all observations made after the firgt 2 days, which have a mean temperature of 57°. No. V was deduced from observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, at an eleva- tion of 4,860 feet above the level of the sea, from April 4 to 23, 1859. The mean air temperature was 42°, and the weather mostl}' cloudy, stormy, and rainy. The ampli- tude is, therefore, rather small. No. V a. A more graceful diagram and of larger amplitude was obtained from only the first 3 days of No. V, from April 5 to 8, 1859, with a mean temperature of 41° and fine weather. No. VI was deduced from 3 days' observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from August 6 to 9, 1859. The mean temj^erature was about 70°, and the weather clear and favorable, with the exception of some higli winds. No. VII was deduced from 10 da)'s' hourly observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from October 30 to November 9, 1858. The mean temperature was about 35°, the weather fine, and no great abnormal variations took place. These results are, therefore, of superior value. The diagram shows a bold, sweeping shape. No. VIII was deduced from 22 days' tri-hourly observations at Camp Floyd, Utah, taken b}' Capt. J. W. Phelps, Fourth Artillery, from September 22 to October 13, 1858. The mean temperatiu-e was 57°, the weather partly stormy. The values for the intermediate hours were found by plotting the calculated ones, and combining them by a curve, Avliich seemed best to correspond to the other diagrams. No. IX was deduced from tri-hourly observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from November 3 to 29, 1858. The mean temperature was 35°, the weather mostly calm and clear, but some great abnormal variations took* place, and some snow fell. The amplitude is, therefore, smaller than in No. VII. BAROMETllICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 175 No. X was deduced from observations at Genoa, Carson Valley, Utah, at an elevation of 4,824 feet above the level of the sea, taken from June 12 to June 23, 1859. The mean temperature was 76^.3, and the weather fine; but the condition of the atmospheric pressure Avas not as uniformly regular as might have been desired. The diagram has, therefore, a less marked shape and amplitude than one might expect, but it must be remembered that the situation of Genoa is a i)eculiar one, on the margin of the arid interior, not far from extensive deserts, but also close to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, with its snow-clad summits, its abundance of water, and luxuriant vege- tation. I also tried to obtain the barometric variations in Woodruff Valley, one of the desert valleys of the interior of the Basin, at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, at the end of May, 1859. The mean temperature there was then 53° Fahrenheit. But as a barometric storm occurred in these days, I did not obtain satisfac- tory results. I can only state that the barometer seems to oscillate very little between sunrise and noon, that then it sinks for some hours and begins to rise again rather abruptly toward simset. The peculiarity of this change is due to the influence of the aqueous vapor, or rather to the extraordinarily small amount of aqueous vapor in that region, as Avill appear from the discussion of that suljiject below, wliile we might expect a large amplitude on account of the large daily oscillation of the temperature. These tables of oscillations were made use of for correcting the observations, either directly or by combining them so as to answer the purpose more satisfactorily. Most of the camping-places along our routes in Utah did not require very large corrections, partly on account of their high altitudes, which mostly varied between 5,500 and 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, partly on account of the reason stated above. The largest corrections were needed in the neighborhood of Carson Lake, and at some other low points with high temperatures; but in no instance were the oscillations found nearly as large as those observed by Lieutenant Abbot at a much lower elevation with higher tem2:)erature, in August, at Fort Reading, in the Sacramento ^^alley, or those obtained farther south, in New Mexico.* CORRECTION FOR THE ABNORMAL VARIATIONS OF THE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE. The amount of this variation differs much according to the climatical character and elevation of the stations. There Avas no meteorological station in the interior of Utah, in the climatical zone of our survey, besides that at Camp Floyd, where barometric observations were taken under direction of the medical department of the Army. Although we went several hundred miles from that place and passed high ranges of mountains, I considered it safe to apply the corrections indicated by the changes of the barometer at Camp Floyd, as it is a well-established fact that the variations extend over hundreds of miles of the same zone with little change. Although we were part of the * I am compelled to confine myself merely to allude here to the change of the amplitudes, in value and time, in the different mouths and localities, and to the more gradual or abrupt increase or decrease of pressure which is graphic- ally represented in the diagrams ; nor can I discuss the varying influence of the elastic force of vapor in the atmosphere upon the oscillations of the barometer at the different hours of the day, and in the different seasons of the year. These interesting questions must be left to future investigation. They are by far not so easily solved as it would appear from a superficial examination. 17(5 EXPLOHATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. time nearer to San Francisco, I preferred to base the corrections thronghont on Camp Floyd, becanse the cHmate of San Francisco is one of periodical changes, while that of the interior is non-periodic, and becanse San Francisco is several thousand feet lower than the Basin. The difference of the monthly mean readings of the barometer from the yeai-ly mean has not been found analogous in both districts, although many of the great variations of the atmospheric pressure will undoubtedly be felt simultaneously in the interior of Utah and on the Pacific coast. The diagram of the observations at Camp Floyd, corrected for the horary oscilla- tions, shoAved in general a satisfactory agreement with the corresponding diagrams of the single camps, and even for the most western point reached by us ; for as regards the city of Genoa, in Carson Valley, Utah, these diagrams agree better with each other than those for Genoa and San Francisco. Local storms and rains in the single mount- ain rauo-es affect the parallehsm of the diagrams in some instances; but the differences ])roduced in that way are probably not considerable, and partly, at least, are counter- balanced by the corresponding changes in temperature, &c* Between the abnormal variations of the barometers at Camp Floyd and Fort Bridger I also found a most remarkable coincidence, and nearly simultaneous changes, when I plotted the diagrams of coiTesponding observations, made very carefully at these points in September and October, 1858. CORRECTION OF THE OBSERVED AIR-TEMPERATURES. The method of computation requires the introduction of the mean temperatures of the days, instead of the observed temperatures. To find the mean temperature more accurately, and make the correction more systematic, I have deduced the following tables from observations made in connection with the hourly observations of the ba- rometer for determining the horary oscillations of the mercurial column. Tliese inter- esting tables show the mean difference of the temperature of each hour from the mean temperature of the day for different stations and seasons. The curves on plate B repre- sent these variations graphically. The marks * indicate the times of sum-ise and sun- set. As no observations had been made during the hours of night, the mean tempera- tiu-e of the twenty-four hours was calculated under the supposition that the temperature decreases regularly from 9 p. m. to near sunrise, which, in the highly elevated re- gions, comes very near the truth. * Long after tlie conipiitalion of Ibe altitudes liad lictn tjui.'-bed, I tooli up tbe study of tbe bygionietiicol obser vations, tbe leadiug results of which will be fouud in the latter portion of this report. Tbey impressed me still more with tbe necessity of selecting, as a lower or fixed station, a point wbieb actually presents tbe same climatical features as the station tbe altitude of which is to be deteimined. I found, besides, that when the local storms occur, the hygro metrical observations will enable au experienced meteorologist to apply some discretionary corrections and to judge better the comparative accuracy of the results of diii'erent computations ; although I still repudiate the introduction of the force of vapor into the hypsometric formula;. By them he is also enabled better to judge which one of the various- tables of horary oscillations is best adapted to the single observations. Exijlrnii,,.,,.'.- ,./ ■ (■„,.• . I.IIS,n,,,so„ Th-rs. I. /„ /// X? Hourly V;ii-ialioii oC ToiiiporadiPO ■■it (lilTciM'ul sl-.ilioMM :iii 1 Tear. Degrees, Fahren- heit. 1 Observer, Ur. Moore. Observer, Mr. W. W. Phelps. • Tear. Camp Floyd. Year. Salt Lake City. 1653... 1858... 1H59... 1859... 1859 .- 1859... 1859 .. 18.19... 1859 .. 1859... 1859 .. 1859... 35.908 25.106 25.297 25.031 25.069 2.5. 062 2.5. 082 25. 122 25. 175 25. 133 25.173 25. 213 E. E. E. E. E. E. M. M. M. M. M. M. 1858 .. 1858... 1859 .. 1859... 1859 .. 1859 .. 18,59... 1859... 1859... 1859 .. I8.W .; 1859 .. 34.0 22.0 16.2 2.9.9 31. !l 43.6 54.7 74.7 75.0 72.1 58.4 50.7 E. E. E. E. E. E. W. W. W. M. M. M. 1858 .. 1858... 1859 .. 1859 .. 1859 .. 18.59 .. 1859 .. 1859 .. 1859... 1839... 1859 .. 1859... Total 0.50 0.30 0.35 1.14 0.28 0.40 0.40 0.03 2.88 0.18 1.72 0.00 7.58 1857... 1857 .. 1858 .. 1858... 1858... 1858... 1858 .. 1858 .. 1658 .. 18.58 .. 1857... 1857 .. Total 2.80 5.40 0.30 February March April May June July 1.37 0.39 0.19 0.83 1.01 0.64 0.85 Septfmber October 0.57 1.10 Meau 1 year 25.140 47.0 15.45 182 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH, The hea^^est precipitation of rain takes place during the fall and winter, but gen- erally every month has some rain, and the climate of Utah does in that respect by no means exhibit the periodicity of the climate of California, and of more southern lati- tudes. During the sunmier months the showers seldom continued any length of time) and frequently only a few drops fell. The precipitation is most copious near high mountains, not only for the same causes which in all countries favor the precipitation of moisture on high mountains, but also, it appears, because the clouds and drops of rain, while sinking through the parched lower strata of the atmosphere, are partly again dissolved into vapor, and thus become less before reaching the bottom of the valleys, unless the rain should happen to be heavy. This is the contrary of Avhat takes place in moister climates, Avhere the quantity of rain frequently increases with every foot of its descent tlu-ough the air, which is saturated with moisture. In June we had no rain in the field, but in July numerous short showers occurred, which, in the aggregate, amounted, however, only to 2 inches of rain. At Camp Floyd 2.28 inches were measured in July. I am unable to determine whether the difference in the amount of precipitation between Camp Floyd and Salt Lake City, as exhibited by the above table, is mainlj^ due to the irregularity of the distribution of rain and snow in the ditferent years, or to other causes, although I have no doubt but that the fall of rain and snow is more abundant at Salt Lake City, which is situated at the very foot of the high and wide range of the Wahsatch Mountains, near the most elevated sum- mits of W'hich considerable banks of snow remain unmelted all the year round, although they cannot be said to reach the limit of perpetual snow, and the moister atmosphere of which is indicated by a ditferent vegetation than farther off these mountains near Camp Floyd, and in the other open valleys. In 1857, six feet of snow fell near Salt Lake City; certainly much more than is likely ever to fall at Camp Floyd during a single winter. Dew falls very rarely in the vast desert valleys and on most of the mountain ranges of Western Utah, in the so-called Great Basin. The scarcity of grass in the valleys, Avhich are mostly covered with a thin growth of Artemisia and other desert plants, combined with the great dryness of the atmosphere, which is indicated by the small amount of rain, is not favorable to its fonnation. On our whole march from Camp Floyd to the Sierra Nevada and back, during May, June, July, and part of August, that is, from the time when it was still snowing occasionally to the time when the greatest heat of the summer was over, we observed dew only on three mornings, and then it was confined to a border of grass of only a few feet in width along the banks of creeks. In Section V of the Geological Report, I have shown that the cause of this great deficiency of moisture is a consequence of the geographical situation and hypso- graphical character of the country. The remarkable dryness of the atmosphere influence also its electric condition. We know that dry air is a non-conductor of electricity, Avhile moist air is a conductor. The electricity which is constantly developed in various ways, is, under ordinary cir- cumstances, mostly at once conducted to the earth or diffused in the moist air. In the comparatively moist climate of Western Europe, in Germany, for example, electricity BAROMETUICAL AND METBOROLOrxICAL OBSERVATIONS. 183 can therefore always be detected in the air by delicate instrninonts, wliilo even in the Mississippi Valley, in the drier climate of the summer moutlis, frequently not the slightest trace of it is indicated by the same instruments, as I am informed by Dr. Ad- Wislizenus, of Saint Louis, who has lately commenced an interesting series of experi- ments upon this subject. In the arid climate of Utah the air conducts the electricity still less, and even the parched pulverulent soil appears to become a non-conductor. Thus the electricity is accumulated where it is developed. Not only do woolen clothes, buifalo-robes, and all sorts of peltry, and even the saddle-blankets on the horses become highly charged, but the glass on wood-cased pocket-compasses becomes so electric that the needle adheres to the glass and persistently refuses to Avork, and the equilibrium cannot be restored by merely touching the glass with the hand. Where thus every part of the instruments, and the body and clotliing of the observer are apt to be elec- tric, and the soil and air are non-conductors, all the delicate magnetic observations become exceedingly difficult to take. I cannot conclude these remarks without mentioning a phenomenon familiar to all the settlers along the foot of the Wahsatch range. During certain seasons, regu- larly every evening soon after sunset, a wind rises, blowing from the summit of the mountains down the canons, toward the wide longitudinal valleys at their base. It is by them called canon-wind, and finds its explanation in the circumstance that in the evening when the other winds generally lull, the radiation of heat of the bare dry soil of the vallej^s, and consequently the upward movement of the heated air continues for several hours, and the equilibrium is restored by the afflux of colder air from the mountain summits by the channels of the narrow side-valleys, in which the tempera- ture is depressed by the evaporation of their streams, which makes a great deal of hea^ latent. This phenomenon bears resemblance to the land and sea breezes on the coast. Another phenomenon of frequent occurrence near Camp Floyd are whirlwinds, which for months may be seen nearly daily traversing Cedar Valley in its longitudinal direction from north to south. They have no great diameter, but considerable height, and may readily be followed with the eye by the high cylindrical column of dust which they raise. When they passed our barometrical station, I observed several times that the mercurial column fell momentarily, and then rose again to its former height; all within the few seconds occupied by the passage of the whirl. I never observed, instru- mentally, the quantity of this fall, but it cannot have been less than 0.1 inch, and per- haps it was much larger. The fall of the barometer is partly caused by the upward movement, and thus diminished pressure of the air, of which the height of the colunm of dust affords a proof, but I explain it principally by the fact that the whirl, being formed by a body of air in violent motion, does not exercise the pressure correspond- ino- to a similar column of air at rest or comparative rest outside the whirl. This is in strict conformity to the laws of pneumatics, and analogous to the laws of the differ- ence of the static and dynamic pressure of fluids. A third cause is to be found in the circumstance that the progi-essing whirl, imparting its rapid rotary motion to bodies of air before comparatively at rest, tears them off from the main body of the air, -which is unable to join in that motion so rapidly as not to exhibit a slight expansion and con- sequent diminiition of the pressure. The causes of the frequent occurrence, and of 184 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the regular development of this interesting- phenomenon, may be found in the great width and length of the valleys, Avhich are free from any obstruction; in the large quantity of heat radiated from their sparsely-covered and dry soil; in the powerful fluctuations of the atmosphere, caused by the difference of temperature between the bottom of the valleys and the upper regions of the air, and the great amplitude of the daily oscillations of the temperature. Near Camp Floyd, in Cedar Valley, they may be caused directly by the distribution and configuration of the mountains at the northern end of the valley. The winds from the north and northwest, after sweeping over the immense unbroken level of the Salt Lake Valley, when they approach Cedar Valley, are divided into two branches by the mountains which separate Tuilla Valley from the Aalley of Jordan River. The western branch meets, at the southern end of Tuilla Valley, with the mountain mass of Floyd's Peak, and partly continues into Rush Valley, partly is diverted to the southeast and enters the northwestern extremity of Cedar Valley, across a depression in the 0-quirrh Mountains. The eastern branch enters Cedar Valley by various depressions in the much less elevated so-called Traverse Mountains. These different currents, when meeting again, apj^ear to form the whirls whenever the accessory circumstances are favorable. HYGROMETRICAL CONDITIONS OF THE ATMOSPHERE. I have already spoken of the smallness of the amount of rain, snow, and dew which tails in Central and Western Utah. Before discussing this subject farther, I will introduce some general remarks for the benefit of the scientific reader. The formation of vapor in the an- is especially dependent upon two conditions, namely, upon the temperature and upon the presence of water. With an unlimited supply of moisture, vapor will be found in proportion to the height of the temperature; but with equal degrees of temperature, more vapor will be formed in districts which abound in water than in those which do not. Hence it follows that the absolute quantity of vapor in the air, other circumstances being the same, is less in the interior of continents than on the seashore. As more vapor is diffused through the air at a high temperature, and as with an increasing heat the water evaporates more and more from the surface of large masses of water and from the moist ground, the quantity of Avater contained in the form of vapor in the lowest stratum of the air by which we are surrounded will diminish and increase in the course of the day. In climates of moderate humidity such as Western Euro])e, the quantity of vapor in the an* is generally increased as the temperature rises Avith the rising of the sun. This, hoAA'ever, only lasts till about_9 a. m., Avhen the ground becomes dryer, and an ascending cuiTent of air, occasioned by the strong heating of the surface of the ground, cames the vapor on high, so that the weight of Avater contained in the loAver strata of the air diminishes, although the forma- tion of vapor continues. This diminution continues till tOAvard 4 p. m. ; then the quan- tity of Avater of the lower strata of the air again increases, because the upAvardly-directed current of air ceases to cany away the vapor formed. This increase lasts, howcA^er, only until toward 9 p. m., because the decreasing temperature puts a limit to the fur- ther foi-mation of Aapor. In winter, when the action of the sun is less intense, the state of the case is different. Then there is generally only one maximum of the quan- BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 185 tity of water in the air at about 2 ]). in., and only the miuinuini at tlie tinii- of sunrise. The weig-ht of vapor in the air is, besides, smaller in winter, on account tif the lower teiujieratnre. The ratio between the quantity of acjueous vai)()r which air of a certain tempera- ture is able to dissolve and the quantity which it actually contains, its relative humidity or degree of saturation, is snljject to similar changes during- the day. The relative humidity is generalh' smallest about the time of the afternoon minimum of the weight of vapor in the air, and greatest near the hour of the lo^vest temjjerature, about or before sunrise. Air of high relative humidity is called damp — it is the reverse of dry air — in which latter moistened objects become ra])idly dry. In damp air a further de- crease of temperature occasions a precipitation of moisture. Thus dew is formed. It is, however, by no means necessary to the formation of dew that the temperature of the air should sink below the point at which it would be saturated by tlie vapor present; on the contrary, then, not dew but rain would fall. Dew forms only on objects which, by stronger eradication of heat, become cooled below the temperature of the surround- ing- air. This difterence may amount to from 7 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit. The same quantity of vapor contained in a certain volume of air exercises a dif- ferent pressure upon the inclosing vessel, according to its temperature. This tension, or elastic force, can be rneasured by the barometric column, and the indications of the barometer are partly due to the pressure of the air itself, partly to the pressure of the aqueous vapor diifused through it. The elastic force of vapor in the lowest .stratum of the atmosphere also varies during the day with the changing temperature and quan- tity of weight of vapor in the air. As the hygrometrical conditions and laws of the atmosphere are still imperfectly known, it is presumed that the remarkable results obtained by this expedition will be acceptable to the friends of meteorology. They throw some light on the climatical conditions of a district which in this, as in most other respects, differs vastly from the Eastern States of the Union. From our observations we cannot deduce complete laws, because the observations could not be continued for long periods at one station, but have mostly been taken for short times only, at numerous different points ; but further explorations may complete the results. The observations have been executed with as much care as was possible under the circumstances, and the uniformity of the results, of which the following tables and diagrams afford a proof, appears highly satis- factory and testifies to their relative con-ectness. Still I do not hesitate to declare that the obstacles in the way of obtaining absolutely correct results, very great at fixed observatories, as those best know who have studied most fully these matters, can scarcely be obviated in the field, where the most simple arrangements can only be used to advantage. The observations were taken with an August's hygrometer. The dry and wet bulb thermometers were suspended in the shade of the instrument wagon, generally 6 or 7 feet from the ground. I missed very much a suitable casing which would have better secured the observations against vitiating outside influences. Tlie indications of a Mason's hygrometer in which a wide glass tube, closed on top, and fastened between the two thermometers, contained the water for moistening the wet bulb, were found to 24 B u 18(3 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. be very slow, and therefore iimccurate at times when the temperatures changed rapidly; besides, the instrument proved inconvenient for use in the field, and was badly con- structed, the two thermometers not reading- conformably, and thus making corrections necessary in the records. The following tables, C and D, exhibit the mean daily oscillation of the elastic force of vapor, and of the relative humidity of the air, at certain stations and seasons, as deduced from our observations. They are graphically represented in the plates, C and D. The full black lines of the diagrams connect the values obtained for each suc- cessive hour by direct calculation. Where dotted lines run alongside of the full lines they illustrate the actual result of calculation, inclusive of all irregularities, while then the full lines represent the values which I am led to consider as the means unimpaired by the abnormal oscillations produced by irregular rains, high winds, and similar cas- ualties. In the tables C and D, the values are given only for the hours during which observations have been taken. In other subsequent tables I have given the values obtained for the hours of the night, by interpolation, which are also graphically repre- sented on the diagrams by dotted lines. They were obtained by di-awing, in the dia- grams of the oscillations of temperature, of the force of vapor, and of the relative humidity, separately and independently of each other, the curves for the hours of the night, such as they appeared to be, required under the circumstances. Then I calcu- lated from two of the thus-obtained values the third, and represented it also on the dia- grams. If the discrepancy between the fii'st and second values was beyond the limits of the differences found to exist between the means of the computations of the single observations and the values computed from the means of these observations at the actually observed hours, then I critically examined the diag-rams and changed them accordingly, until all the requirements appeared to be fulfilled. I am confident that they wiU be found to agree very closely with the results of observations which in future may be made in this line. In computing, I have made use of the meteorological and physical tables prepared for the Smithsonian Institution by Prof. A. Guyot, second edi- tion, particularly of Tables B, VI, VII, IX, and X, which are deduced from Regnault's formula and the values obtained by him in his famous investig'ations on the vapor, instituted by order of the French government. In many instances I could not make use of the tables directly, because they do not extend to the quite abnormal extremes which my observations exliibit. I then had to apply directly the formula. The results of all the single computations will be found in the records of meteorological observations accompanying the report. The means in the following tallies, C and D, were calcu- lated without making the slightest discretionary corrections in the single observations, because I consider it impossible correctly to estimate the abnormal influences exercised upon the values by irregular changes of wind and weather, and that it is best to leave them to be balanced against each other. I'l.l i i ! I j/t\^ I);„ly()s.llhllllllis |',)rc<- clllu' Vapor Ahn..s|>l,,M-.. - - i :l1 h:,y,/„r,i/,„„.v n/ (it/t/.u/.sim/m,,,, . T.i::i:x. I. ,„ /Km l);iilv O.sciiliilioiis or 111,. Hrlalivi' lluniici ily ol' Ihc Aluiosphcrc. -- - 1 1.1 L. I- ! j ]-^ !- t .t -1. _J t 1 .-i- j 4= ^s; , l_ -L. [ ! J___ ;i-:i-L- 1 1 -v-\ i f. i 1 ^ ^E _^_ i- - ^ \ '— i --If- - 1 1 1 ii,,Jr-/.v,fM- l,m.-~- ,„-.v, -•'-' -' -"- " \ ir ■ , '''t " : — N, 1 ••■ : . i ; /f ! . : . l/i-:-l — - -t" ' — — ' — 1 ■: 1 ' M-~ -.^ ^,p-'' - ! 1 — i 1 ,4'-' _l_L.^ — - i- 1 III , - - -*" t -I -'■'? ■'-■■■ "1-4- '-- - - -_ -4-^--- -+f -- ^ ; ■:" ■ ' ■ '■''*-= — ""*■., - ■ -l-^""^ t-^4"" i ■ \i ^'\. i , ' IV 1 : i ,7„T --* - - V . \ j ■ ""■ -.---4-- ~ f^ A V 1 1 ; ! y* i • \A SSI \ ^ >-^ _ \ '. ^J--^' \ \ A \ "-, \ V ! : - ' ' - K - VI -» — -"k- ^-^ 1 -- , ^ ^"~~~~~- — ^. _ ^— .*K j — - - VII - - IT" 1 - - -t-i 2$;i-^' ■ ■ i — - - ^ r j i ' I i - ;" '"' ■•*. -- i i ; M 1- --- ■ -_ -Ht--r- 'I - -- "" -A-- _ - - - VIM 1 1 ■ ! ^ j "T "-"^"-i- A-- ' ■ '\ - — _._ ■J r --- -_-r_ --=^- -' - m ^ ^ --^^ ==N-"k4 --l-=i =^ ^ =a.=4^-i -'-^f^ 1- : J _ES --- Krpl„ni/u>/fy n/ V.V/V. . l.//.Sin,f}XO„ . T.I'J. I US. A. /// IS'J.'J. PI a U' I). BAKOMETKIOAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 187 C. — Table of daily oxciUations of the force of vapor, in incites [English), of the merciirial column. 11 a.m. 12m ... 1 p.m. 2 p. m . 3p.m 4 p. ... 5 p. m . 6 p. m. 7p.m 8p.m. 9 p. m. 10 p. m . .349 I >.332 .346 0.100 .366 .370 .037 .3:16 .330 .103 .3« .3.36 .348 .088 .379 .368 .104 .360 ). 144 0.144 .KW .1.7 .l«9 .170 .l.-O .1H2 .190 .190 .ITS .181 .177 .175 . l.W .164 .160 .1.56 .151 .150 . 143 .146 .l.M .142 .13rt .139 .irtf .138 . 143 .153 .143 .152 .317 ' .32:1 . .115 .275 . : - . 1 .221 . .106 .240 1. .246 1 ■■"■;."i.. .061 .24.) . .240 .229 "o.'zis '" .223 .. '".oii D. — Table of daily oscillations of the relative humidity. Saturation = 100. I. II. j III. IV. V. VI. VII. Hour. Observed. Cor- rected. Observed. Cor- rected. Observed. ,Cor-^ Observed. Cor- rected. vni. 81.3 75.0 70.4 tifi.6 62.3 57.8 52.0 49.3 46.7 45.9 4.'). 2 47.7 50.2 60.3 68.4 74.6 73.9 75.2 66.5 51.5 49.5 44.7 38.2 31.2 31.0 30.0 3.3.7 M.2 34.5 43.2 411.2 56.2 66.2 75.0 66.5 5«.0 49.5 44.0 38.0 33.5 31.0 30.0 37.0 37.0 2.5.5 16.5 11.5 10.0 9.5 9.0 9.5 10.0 10.7 12.7 14.7 16.7 18.8 20.9 2a 0 76. 0 69.5 63.0 57.0 51.0 43.0 39.0 37.0 35.0 34.0 35.0 37.0 40.0 46.0 52.0 60.0 41.5 51.8 42.7 34.7 29.2 23.0 13.7 15.2 11.4 13.4 15.6 17.7 18.6 22.2 23.7 21.9 23.8 5.20 a. m. 59.0 9.0 41.0 21.5 22.0 •2X0 \ 11.5 7.5 14.0 22.0 1 17.0 16.3 1 16.0 1.5.3 15.0 17.7 j 14.0 14.0 , 14.3 22. 0 19. 0 2.-;. 3 25. 0 33.0 33.0 3.5 7.7 36.0 40.0 46.0 56.0 66.0 el.:™ ■■;;:::■ 16.7 7.0 20.0 , 5.3 7p.m 21.0 22.0 23.0 22.5 15.0 ' No. I C and D was deduced from 11 days' observations at Fort Kearaey, Ne- braska, from June 19 to 30, 1858, at an elevation of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature was 77°.;") Fahrenheit. The mean force of vapor was 0.628 inch; the relative humidity, GS.-i. and the mean weiglit of vapor in one cubic foot of air, 6.75 grains troy. (See Table E.) No. I C and D corresponds to No. I B, and very nearly also to "No. 11 A, which may be considered as forming together one set. It rained on five occasions altogether during 28 hom-s, but the aggregate quantity of rain was only 1.40 inches. Dew was observed on '6 mornings. Of the 12 nights which this mean includes sheet-lightning was observed on 7, which on one occasion terminated in a thunder-storm, of which there Avere two. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 10 p. m. averaged 3.66, the whole sky being 10, and, including the hours of the night by interpolation, i>.i]h. Tlie clouds were mostly cirro-cumuli, or cirro-stratus, except when it rained. The lilO hourly observations of the wind during that time, between 5 a. m. and 10 p. m., give the following results, the strength being e.xpressed by the numbers from 0 to 10: EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAU. er cent. Av. force. Plt cent. Av . force. 32.1 4.8 Northeast wind 1.1 1.5 30.0 4.4 North-northeast wind - . 1.1 1.5 12.6 3.7 North wind .. 0.5 1.0 4.7 1.8 Southwest wind .- 0.5 5.0 2.1 2.0 South-southwest wind . 2.1 5.0 2.1 1.7 Calmness .. 11.1 0.0 Soiitli wind South-southea.st wind .... Southeast wind 12.6 East-southeast wind . . East wind East-northeast wind . . From north-northwest and west-southwest no wind occurred during this time. The average force of the wind, including the calms, was 3.65, exclusive of the night. The only slight discretionary correction of the obtained mean values was made in C at 5 p. m. and 6 p. m., as indicated in the diagram, where an evident irregularity occurred, probably caused by some abnormal change in the atmosphere, rain-storm, or the like. No. II C and D was deduced from 4 days' observations taken at Fort Laramie, Nebr., from July 30 to August 3, 1858, at an elevation of about 4,470 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature of these days was 67°.0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.344; the relative humidity, 57.0; the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 3.78 grains troy. Nos. II C and D correspond to No. II B and No. II A; they form altog-ether one set. It had thundered, and rained a few drops, shortly before tlie first observation was taken, and it rained twice afterward, for a few moments; but the average quantity of rain was scarcely 0.01 inch. Dew was observed every morning near the river. On 2 of the evenings sheet-lightning was observed, and once distant thunder. Thunder-storms are numerous in that neighborhood and season. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 4.62, and, including interpolations for the night, 4.37, the clouds being mostly cumuli. This increased cloudiness compared with Fort Kearney, while the relative humidity is, on the contrary, less, is a consequence of the neighborhood of the highly-elevated sum- mits of the Rocky Mountains, the lower temperature and comparative moistness of which favors the formation of clouds, which, however, dissolve again when they sink into the lower regions of the air. Of the 64 observations of the wind during these 4 days, between 6 a. m and 9 p. m. — 24 showed easterly winds, including N. E. and S. E., with average force of 2.4. 14 showed westerly winds, including N. W. and S. W., with average force of 3.0. 13 showed northerly winds, including N. N. W. and N. N. E., with average force of 2.0. 3 .showed southerly winds, including S. S. E. and S. S. W., with average force of 2.0. 10 showed perfect calmness. The average force of wind, including the calms, was 2.0. The wind shifted con- tinually, and this, in connection with the peculiar situation of Fort Laramie, at the foot of the high range of the Rock)" Mountains, and bordering on the vast arid plains, in consequence of which the shifting wind at once brings currents of air of a quite diflferent temperature and degree of moisture, makes the observed values of No. II C and D somewhat iiTCgular, which iiTegularity is increased by the influence of the two thunder-storms. Some discretionarv corrections have, therefore, been required. BAKOMETltlCAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 189 No. Ill C iuul D was decluced from tri-hourly observations, taken at Fort IJridger, Utah, from September 2 to September 5, 1858, at an elevation of 6,6 1 6 feet above the level of the sea. Tlie mean temperature during those daj^s was 59°.0 Fahrenheit ; the mean force of vapor only 0.088 inch; the relative humidity, 21.6; and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 0.98 grain troy. Nos. I C and D do not exactly corres- pond to No. Ill B and No. IV A, which were taken a fortnight later, under somewhat diiferent circumstances. Neither rain nor dew fell, but a few hours after the close of the observations a rain-storm set in, which gradually brought on snow. The cloud- iness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 2.33, mostly cirri, and, including the hoiu's of the night, by interpolation, 1.75. Western winds were prevailing, with an average force of 4, coming from the arid regions of the Great Basin. A very slight discretionary correction has only been made in No. Ill D. No. IV C and D was deduced from 19 days' observations taken at Camj) Floyd, Utah, from Ajml 4 to April 23, 1859, at an elevation of 4,860 feet above the level of the sea. The mean temperature was 42°.0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor, 0.155 inch; the relative humidity, 57.0; and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 1.68 grains ti'oy. No. IV C and D correspond to No. IV B, and very nearly also to No. V A, which together fomi one set. During the time of these observations it snowed on nine occasions and rained on one, in an aggregate 22 hours, of which 10 hours were on the 9th, the remainder on the 10th, 1 1th, 12th, and 13th. The whole precipitation probabl}^ did not exceed 0.5 inch of water. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 6.37, and, including the hours of night, by interpolation, 5.16. The clouds were mostly cumuli. During 18 hours out of 100 the sky was cloudless. This rather large cloudiness has its cause in the altitiide of the suiTOund- ing- mountain ranges, which were still extensively covered Avith snow, while the tem- perature in the deserts to the west Avas already high and the evaporation strong. The 312 hourly observations of the wind during that time, between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m., give the following results : North, north-northeast, and northeast winds, 33.3 per cent., with an average force of 2 8. South and southeast winds, 12.8 per cent., with an average force of 3.4. Southwest and west-southwest winds, 9.3 per cent, with an average force of 4.0. West and west-northwest winds, 8.3 per cent., with an average force of 2.0. Northwest and north-northwest winds, 6.1 per cent., with an average foiT.e of 1.8. East, east-southeast, and southeast winds, 10.3 per cent, with an average force of 2.3 Perfect calmness, 19.9 ])er cent. This table of winds will be better understood and appreciated if I mention that the north and northeast winds pass longitudinally over Cedar Valley, the valley in which Camp Floyd is situated, coming over low hills from the Salt Lake Valley. The south and south-southeast winds, and the southwest and west-southwest winds, the strongest winds, pass also more or less longitudinally over the valley, the former from the valleys at the base of the Wahsatch range; the latter over low mountains, from the vast deserts in the direction of Sevier Lake. The west and west-northwest winds pass across the valley, entering it from Rush Valley. They accpiire less force 190 EXrLOKATIONS ACEOSS THE GEEAT BASIN OF UTAH. because they are intercepted, in their forward and backward direction, by high ranges of mountains. For the same reason the Eastern winds are not very strong. The northwest and north-northwest winds are still less numerous and weaker, because they find still more obstructions. The average force of wind, including the calms, was 2.27, and, including the liom-s of the night, by interpolation, probably l.S-l. We may account for this comparatively small force by the circumstance that the valley is suiTounded by high mountain ranges which break the force of the currents in the lower strata of the atmosphere. Some very strong squalls were felt, however, lasting for several hoiu-s. In No. IV U not the least coiTections have beqn found necessary; but in No. IV C some small corrections have been required, in consequence of the unsettled state of the weather. No. V C and D was dediu-ed from 3 daj-s' observations taken at Camp Floyd, Utah, from August 6 to August 9, 1859. The mean temperature of these days was 69^.5 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.238 inch; the mean relative humidity, 38.0, and the mean weight of vapor in 1 cubic foot of air, 2.59 grains troy. No. V C and D correspond to No. V B, and very nearly to No. VI A, which ma)'^ be considered as forming together one set. No rain nor dew fell. The cloudiness of the sky betAveen the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged only 0.56, but if we make interpolations for the hours, probably to 0.62. The average force of the wind, includ- ing the calms, between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. was 1.7 ; fully one-half of the observations showed northerly winds, with an average force of 2.5 ; 23 per cent, were calms, and the remainder southerly and westerly winds. No. V C did not require the slightest corrections, but for No. V D a few slight corrections appeared to be desirable, and have been indicated. No. VI C and D was deduced from 3 days' hourly observations taken at Camp Floyd, from September 15 to 18. The mean temperature was 64°. 7 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was 0.103 inch; the mean relative humidity was 21.9; the mean weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air, 2.67 grains troy. Nos. VII C and D correspond to No. VII B and No. X A, with which they form one set. The weather was fine; no rain nor thunder-storms occurred. No dew was observed at camp, but was formed most likely on the meadows below. The cloudiness of the sky between the hours of 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. averaged 1.6; and including interpolations for the night, probably 1 3. The clouds were mostly cumulo-cirri and some cumulo-stratus ; over half of the time the sky was perfectly cloudless. The average force of the wind between 6 a. m. and 9 p. m. was 1.6 including the calms, which lasted 18.5 per cent, of the time; 23.8 per cent. Avere north and northeast winds, passing up the valley with an average force of 1.7; 38.5 per cent, were south and southwest winds, blowing down the valley with an average force of 2.1; 11.3 per cent, were west and northwest winds, passing down a narrow canon in the Sierra Nevada with a force of 2.4; only 7.9 per cent, were east winds, passing up that canon with an average force of 1.1. The computed values of No. VII I) appeai'ed to require a slight correction at the hours of 6 and 7 p. m., and then No. VII C Avas changed slightly to make it corre- spond better to D; but it is very likely that the uncorrected values are preferable, the apparent irregularity being caused by the peculiar situation of the station. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. HU No. VIII C iiiul D was doducc'il from 3 days' tri-lioiirly oljscrvatious taken troiii iMay 29 to June 2, 1851), in Woodruff N'alley, one of the arid deserts of the interior of Utah, at an elevation of about 6,000 teet above tlie level of the sea. The mean temperature of these daj's was 55°. 0 Fahrenheit; the mean force of vapor was ordy 0.093 inch; the mean relative humidity was 29.1, and the mean weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air was 1.08 grains troy. Nos. VIII C and D correspond very nearly, although not exactly, to No. VIII B. They give the unaltered means of the computed values. The cloudiness of the sky averaged 1.4, or, including interpolatit)ns for the night, 1.3. The force of the wind averaged 2.4, while its direction changed Ije- tween north, south, and AA'est. After having thus stated the particulars in regard to each of the above tables I will give a more comprehensive view of the results, and have for that purpose arranged the Table E. It is based upon the Tables B, C, and D, but contains interpolations for all the hours wdien no direct observations have been taken, and corresponds mosth' to the same diagrams. The columns for temperature, force of vapor, and relative humid- ity contain the means of direct observations, or of computations from the single obser- vations. The columns headed force of vapor at saturation, and weight of vapor at saturation, are deduced from the columns' of temperature with the aid of Regnault's tables. The columns headed weight of vapor in one cubic foot of air, are deduced from the mean values of temperature and relative humidity. Their values would probably have been slightly different if the weight of vapor could have been deduced for each single observation, as it has been done with the force of vapor and relative humidity, but that would have required more time than I had at my disposition. The column headed means contains the means of the values for the single hours as given in the tables. 192 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TUE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. "S^ V. lu'd ^ ui-dE •d8 m 'd X o" — M : sis S ■S3 :S , s" ; ^>>~'^'x A ' > - C - s ^ i«^>' BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSEKVATIOKS. 193 id • •■rfi-d o o ao C-. rt ■■= o -Z o ^■ £ftg«-B QJ « fi -S '■^ 'S >^tS g 2 t» s r^ > « -ji -^ pq o > © ^ :s S S bi^r^rS 9 :1^^ o o s ^ > O ^ P^ .S ^ «^ =2 ^ o '-' ^ 3 13 ,±: o 2 •5 p_ ^ "S 2 ^ g - - - ^^ sis W CO 2 .)^ a cci c ^ ^ s 14-, o fe ,!-i o 5 ri c ic S CI b r- ^ ti:; 9 02 0} pr' '^ ? ►^ a s 1 s s I .0 1 Mean torn- f perature, de- ) grees Fab- 1 ronbeit. 1 Force of va- f por, ii.cbes, 1 English, of mercury. [ Greenwich, England .. Philadelphia, Pa Camp Floyd, Utah 38.1 32.3 16.2 38.5 i 41.6 33.8 1 42.3 29. 9 31. 9 4C.5 50.6 43.6 a 42.0 "6." 2311 0. 293 0.154 0 0.155 79. 76.6 .51.7 a 57.0 2.9 3.35 1.77 a 1.68 6.7 5.1 aS.2 52.9 58.9 54.7 rf55.0 "6.300 0.381 do. 093 76. 75.6 d29.1 "3.4 4.30 dl.08 "'6.'4' dl.3 58. ^ 08. R 74.7 e 76. 3 /77.5 0.369 0. 545 e 0.248 / 0.628 74. 78.0 e30. 6 /68.4 4.1 6.02 «2.67 /6.75 6.6 el. 3 /3.4 61.7 73.8 75.0 "6.' 417 0.611 76.""" 76.8 "4."6"' 6.69 "s.i" 61.4 71.5 72.1 b S9. 5 !;67.0 0. 426 0. 622 h 0. 238 .70.344 78. 81.6 i>38.0 3 57.0 4.8 6.83 6 2.59 sr3.7B 6.3 60.6 J74.4 50.9 64.1 58.4 c64.7 "6.383 0.492 c 0.103 49. 5 51.3 50.7 43.8 40.7 34.0 40.5 32.6 22.0 49.2 51.6 47.0 Greeuwioh, England .. Pbiladolnhia, Pa Camp Floyd, Utah "6." 205 0.173 0.093 "6.' 203 0. 173 0.147 0.216 0.224 0.130 "6." 310 0.312 ' o.'aon 0.218 "o.'229 0.173 "'6.' 297 0.352 • 0. 150 Relative hu- f miility.satus ratioii = 100. 1 Greenwich, England -. Philadelphia, Pa Camp Floyd, Utah... 89. 85.5 83.5 86. 83.7 84.5 82. 78.0 71.3 81. 82.0 C21.9 86. 79.6 89. 80.4 88. 84.8 61. 80.2 Weisht of va- f por iul cubic 1 foot of air, i grains troy. [ Olondinoss off sky. the^ whole = 10. [ Greenwich, England .. Pbiliidelphia, Pa Camp Floyd, Utah 2.4 2.06 1.12 2.4 2.06 1.74 2.5 2.61 1.53 4.2 5.49 cl.16 2.5 3.56 2.9 2.55 2.6 2.06 3.4 3.96 Philadelphia, Pa Camp Floyd, Utah 6.8 4.6 6 0 6.2 7.0 5.7 5.5 CO. 7 "as" , M "h'.h" "e.k" 1 1 1 t Estimated at. rela- rela- Tliis taljle does not require any further explanation. I will only state that the weight of vapor for January, P'eljruary, March, and April, at Camp Floyd has been computed from the mean temperature, and the mean forces of vapor of these months, which I found to give, generally, more accurate results than if the mean relative humidity was directly introduced into the calculation. These means, for Camp Floyd, were deduced from three observations each day, at 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m. The means for these single hours were — In January, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.0(J2 ; 2 p. m., 0.137 ; 9 p. m., 0.079 tive humidity, 7 a. m., 92.0 ; 2 p. m., 72.0 ; 9 p. m., 8G.4. , In February, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.117; 2 p. m., 0.189; 9 p. m., 0.135; tive humidity, 7 a. m., 89.3 ; 2 p. m., 7G.6 ; 9 p. m., 87.G. In March, force of vapor, 7 a. m., 0.114; 2 p. m., O.IGO; 9 p. m., 0.118; relative humidity, 7 a. m., 78.3; 2 p. m., G1.4; 9 p. m., 74.3. During these three months the mountains near Camj) Floyd were heavily covered with snow, while in the valley the snow was a few inches deep in January, less in February, and disappeared in March. In April the snow disappeared from the lower moimtains, but especially the eastern and northern slo^^es of the higher mountains, and the princijial summits were still covered. In Januar}' from 9 to 10 inches of snow (not water) fell at Camp Floyd. In February it began 12 times to snow or rain, but the aggregate amount was very small; in March it snowed 10 times, once with a little rain, biit the whole amount was again quite small; in April snow fell at 10 different times and rain at 3, but the whole amount of the precipitation did probably not reach half an inch of water. EXTREMES OF TEMPERATURE, HUMIDrfY, ETC. After having, in the preceding paragraphs, treated of the values of the daily and monthly changes of temperature, moisture, and barometric pressure, which although extreme if compared Avitli those of the same latitudes in the Eastern States, are the mean values and the rule in the localities where they have been observed, I will close these pages with the enumeration of some of the extreme changes and abnormal con- 206 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ciitions recorded on this exploration. The following are actually recorded differences of temperature hetwecn the warmest and coldest time of the day, and they would, in many instances, be considerably larger, if the maximum and minimum temperatures had been observed. As we generally staid in a camp from afternoon till morning the ampli- tudes are mostly given between the high temperature of the afternoon and the low one of next morning, which are apt to give a little larger amplitude than the maximum and minimum of the same day would exhibit. We have observed as far east as Little Blue River, in Southeastern Nebraska, October 7th, 3 p. m., 75°; October 8th, 5.45 a. m., 34°; difference, 41° Fahrenheit. Platte River, below Fort Laramie, September 20tli, 3 p. m., 85°; September 21st, 5.15 a. m., 36°; difference, 49° Fahrenheit. Near the Red Buttes, August loth, 3.15 p. m., 82°; August IGth, 4.45 a. m., 37°; difference, 45° Fahrenheit. Upper Sweetwater River, September 9tli, 3 p. m., 70°. 3 ; September 10th, 5.45 a. m., 26°.5 ; diff"erence, 43°.8 Falnenheit, Green River, August 3Gth, 3 p.m., 83°; August 31st, 5.30 a. m., 39°; difference, 44° Fahrenheit. Black Fork, September 1st, 4 p. m., 79°; September 2d, 5.30 a. m., 35°; differ- ence, 44° Fahrenheit. Bear River, September 26th, 3 p. m., 56°; September 27th, 6 a. m., 11°. 5; differ- ence, 44°.5 Faln-enheit. Echo Canon, September 10th, 6 a. m., 25°.5 ; 1.15 p. m., 75°; difference, 49°.5 Fahrenheit. West of Weber River, September Uth, 4 p. m., 80°.5; September r2th, 5 a. m., 32°.5; difference, 48° Fahrenheit. Timpanogos Canon, September 20th, 3.30 p. m., 83°.5; September 21st, 6 a. m., 35°. 5; difference, 48° Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, September 17th, 6 a.m., 40°; 12m., 91°; difference, 51° Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, January 3d, 7 a. m., 0°.5; 2 p. m., 31°; difference, 31°.5 Fahrenheit, Camp Floyd, January 18th, 7 am., 5°.3; 2 p. m., 41°.7; difference, 36 °.4 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, April 8th, 6 a. m., 32°.7; 12 m., 71°; difference, 38°.3 Fahrenheit. Camp Floyd, April 22d, 5.25 a. m., 20°; 3.15 p. m., 73°.3; difference, 53°.3 Fahrenheit. Salt Lake Desert, August 1st, 4.30 p. m., 102°; August 2d, 4.30 a. m., 56°; differ- ence, 46° Fahrenheit. Reese River, May 28th, 3 p. m., 76°; May 29th, 4.50 a. m., 22°; difference, 54° Fahrenheit. Over 40° difference was frequently observed in Woodruff" Valley, the deserts near Carson Lake, and in other valleys of the Great Basin. As the relative humidity was frequently small, the difference between the reading of the dry and wet bidb thermometers was frequently considerable. We must, how- ever, l)ear in mind that this difference is no direct measure of the relative humidity. The following are some of the extreme values observed dm-ing the siirvey : Fort Kearney, October 3d, 3 p. m., dry bulb, 87°.5; wet bulb, 58°.7 ; difference, 28°.8 Fahrenheit. BAROMETRICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 207 Independence Rock, (Sweetwater River,) August IGtli, 3 p. m., 91° and 59°.3 ; difference, 31°.7 Falu-enheit. Camp Floyd, September ITtli, 3 p. m., 90° and 54°; difference, 36° Fahrenheit. Prince's Creek, Utah, August 2d, 3 p. m., 87°.5 and 5G°; difference, 31°.5 Fahren- heit. In that vicinity, and about that time, the difference reached frequently 30°. At Genoa, Carson Valley, June IGth, 88°.5 and 56°; difference, 32°.5; and for several hours, 30 or 31°. At the same place, June 17th, 2 p. m., 92° and 58°.5; difference, 33°.5; and for several hours, 32°. On June 18th, 1 p. m., 94° and 59°; difference, 35°. June 19th, 12 m., 90° and 56°; difference, 34°; and June 2()th, 3 p. m., 101°.5 and 66°; difference, 35°.5 Fahi-enheit. The force of vapor is subject to rapid changes by a change of the wind, and from other apparently small causes, independent of the regular daily variations. We find a change recorded on Big Sandy Creek, near Green River, August 27th, from 6.20 p. m. to 9 p. m., from 0.176 to 0.415 ; difference, 0.209 inch ; and at Genoa, June 16th, from 12 m. to 1 p. m., from 0.204 to 0.088; difference, 0.116 inch in 1 hour, merely by a change of the wind, with a perfectly clear sky; and at the same place, on Jmie 19th, from 11 a. m. to 12 m., from 0.252 to 0.067; difference, 0.185 inch in 1 hour. Some of the lowest values of force of vapor were deduced from observations at the following points : Copperas Springs, near Fort Bridger, September 27th, to 6 p. m., 0.000 ; Salt Lake Desert, May 8th, 9 p. m., 0.000 ; Pleasant Valley, Utah, May 9th, 3 p. m., 0.028 ; Antelope Valley, May 10th, 12 m., 0.027; Camp Floyd, April 21st, 5 p. m., 0.008 ; Camp Floyd, September 17th, 3 p. m., 0.014; Camp Floyd, January 12th, 7 a. m., 0.025, when the air was saturated with moisture on account of the low temperature; also, January 11th, 7 a. m., 0.026; January 10th, 9 p.m., 0.026; Fort Bridger, September 4th, 3.30 p. m., 0.027 ; Fort Bridger, September 29th, 10 a. m., 0.022 ; Woodruff Valley, May 31st, 6 p. m., 0.015. Extremely small values of saturation, or relative humidihj, are the following : Cop- peras Springs, near Fort Bridger, September 27th, 6 p. m., 0; Salt Lake Desert, May 8th, 9 p. m., 0 ; and at neighboring points, on successive days, 4 and 7 ; Fort Bridger, September 4th, 3.30 p. m., 3; Fort Bridger, September 29th, 10 a. m., 3; Camp Floyd, April 21st, 5 p. m., 2; April 23d, 6 p. m. and 8 p. m., 11; Camp Floyd, August 8th, 4 p. m., 9; Prince's Creek, August 2d, 3 p. m. and 6 p. m., 8; Woodruff Valley, May 30th and 31st, 6 p. m., 3; June 1st, 3 p. m., 3; AlkaH Wells, June 4th, 6 p. m., 7; Walker River, June 8th, 3 p. m., 7; Genoa, June 19th, 12 m., 5; Little Sandy Creek, near South Pass, August 26th, 3 p. m., 8; and as far east as Fort Kearney, October 3d, 3 p. m., 10.5. It was astonishing to see how little influence, sometimes, rain had on the humidity of the atmosphere, because it was found in the upper regions while the lower atmos- phere was dry, and it did not extend far. At Pl}-m})ton Springs, in the Salt Lake Desert, July 23d, between 3 and 4 p. m., 0.30 inch of rain fell, during a thunder- stonn, with hail ; our camp was flooded, and after 6 some more rain fell. Still the relative humidity, which at 3 p. m. was 38, at 6 p. m. had only increased to 50. Again, in White Valley, on July 25th, a thunder-storm, with, however, only little rain was recorded as lasting from 4 to 6 p. m.; the relative humidity at 4 p. m. was 25; at 6 p. m., 28. EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GKEAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX I\ TABLE OF DISTANCES ALTITUDES, AND GRADES. 27 B u Explomtioru olCuptJHSlm/imn TF.I'SA ,n IHiU PLATE t \' A.i>3?»Eisrr>i:?^ f TABLE OF DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, AND GRADES. ..r pla.'. Furt Bridger Smmuit between Fort Bridger auil Muildy Oeek.. . Mnddv Creek Simnuit between Muddy Creetaiid Sulpbiir Creek Siilpliur Creek B ar River . Snniuiit botw Camp. 17 mile jii Bear River and Wbito Clay Creek from tliB mouth of White Clay Creek Mouth of White Clav Creek f'anip on Weber, 2.0 miles from junction of White Clay Creek . Ford . Summit on Parley's Park road, between Weber Kiver and Silver Creek. Silver Creek Summit between Silver Creek and Round Prairie Kcwnd Prairie Neai- Warm Spiings Camp on Timi)anogos, 12.5 miles above bridge IJridpe over Tinipanogos Low ground southeast of and near Lehi Bridge over the Jordan Uiver CampFU.yd (*anip Floyd P.ass Camp No. 1, Meadow Creek General .Johnston's Pass, Guyot range (summit) ('amp No. 2. western slope of Guyot range In Skull Valley Camp No. 3, Simjison's Spring, base of Mount Charaplin In Salt Lake Desert Short-Cut Pass (summit) ('amp No. 4, western slope, Thomas's range Ffiot of slope (Jarap No. fl. Fish Spring, Salt Lake Desert (3amp No. 6. in Salt Lake Desert Camp No. 7. Sulphur Spring F;ast sunmiit of Totsarr range ( :amp No. 8, Pleasant Valley West summit of Totsarr range Webtem foot of slope Itidge east of Antelope Valley Camp No. 9 . In Antelope Valley • Ridge between Antelope Valley and Spring Valley. CampNo. Ill, Spring Valley I'n-go-we-ah MountAina (summit) (^amp No. 11. west slope of Uu-go-we-ah Mountains. In Steptoe Valley Camp No. 12. month of Egan Caiion Mon-tim range (summit) Do Foot of Mon-tira range in Butte Valley Ciimp No. 13, Butte Valley Kidge between Butte Valley and Long Valley In Long Valley Camp No. 14, near summit of Too-muntz Mountains , 'ro>-munt7. range (summit) In Ruby Valley Camp No. 1.'). Ruby Valley Jlastings's Pass (snmmit) In V.illeyof Sonth Fork of Ilnmboldt , Camp No. 16. eastern base of We-ah-bah Mountains Snmmit of Weahbah range C'amp No. 17, Pah-huu-nn-pe Valley, west foot of We-ah No. LI, Olav Creok, Ko-bah Valley In I'iill hn-niipi. Valley (•:nn|i Ni.. 1(1, M, r.irtli.v's Creek, Pah-ho-no-pe Valley. nnuo (summit) Tn 111 Vallr fainp N„. !• oil Valley Uv i.ii liucll Valley and Phelps Valley . In Ml Riilj;e lii-t In I'hrlps , Kiil^ie lu't«eun I'heips Valley and Batte Valley 12.7 Camp Ko. 18, near Summit Spring 0.4 In Butte Valley 7. .i Mon-tiin range (summit) I 8,5 Camp No. 19, eaateru slope, Mon-tim range , 3. 1 Camp No. 20, Steptoe Valley I 14.0 Western slope of Un-go-we-ab Mountains Do. Camp No. 21, western slope of Un-go-we-ab Mountains.. Un.go-we-ab Mountains (summit) Eastern slope of Un-go-we-ab Mountains Camp No. 2-.i, Antelope Valley Tots-arr range (summit) Camp No. '2:1, eastei-n slope Tots arr Mountains (3amp No. yt, Crosmau Springs, Crosmau Valley Camp No. 3ti, Phmpton Springs, Crosimau Valley Kidge between (jrosmnn Valley and White Valley Camp No. a.l, Wbite Valley Camp No. 27, White Valley House range (summit) Camp No. 28, Cbapin's Spring In Si-\-ier Valley Camp No. 29. Tyler's Spring Ill Sevier Valley Summit of Tbomas's range Base of Thomas's range Suniniit east of Thomas's range In the valley .' ; Camp No. :!h. Mi-nnwoll Mnnntaina McDow.-ll MonntairiH (wi-.st summit) In Ilie vail, \ li.lwei ri I'mtiiiis No. 30 and No. 31 McDowll .Nl taiM.s (,a.-t summit) Camp No. 31. Gooil Indian Spring Canip No. 32, William Spring, base of Monnt Cbamplin. Camp No. 33, Prince Creek Summit between Prineo Creek and Porter's Valley In Porter's Valley Summit between Porter's Valley and Brewer's Spring. . . Camp No. 34, Brewer's Spring " Oak Pass. Guy*it range (summit) JSastern .slope of Guyot range Camp No. 35, Meadow Creek, Rnsb Valley Summit between Meadow Creek and Kush Valley In Kush Valley '. Camp Floyd Pass Camp Floyd 274.7 277.8 280,3 292. 7 297.1 309. B 310.2 317.7 326. 2 329,3 343.3 3.i3. 7 354. 7 3.i7. 7 359.4 36(1.8 373.4 383.3 390. 5 40.5. 3 41.5.8 42.5. 3 435.4 436. 9 449.0 451.3 4.5S. 8 466.8 475.4 481.4 483.4 489.8 496. 5 50,3. 7 504.7 507.1 ,509. 0 509.4 518.6 527. 3 528.4 .530. 7 533.4 536. 2 541.6 54.3. 6 5.50. 4 554.1 557.9 567.4 571.9 Sa **«« 1? ii . sl i§i ■< o- G,DOO 595 .5, 998 2 5,820 178 6, 184 364 7,270 1, Orti 5,863 1,407 .5, 998 135 5,813 185 6, ,523 710 G, 150 370 7,103 9.53 7,057 46 6,268 789 7, 396 1,130 6, 828 570 6, 193 635 7,150 9.57 6,918 232 7, 443 525 8,140 697 6.480 1,660 5, 633 847 7,060 1, 427 5,927 1, 133 4, 920 1,007 4,814 106 5, 6.57 843 4,406 1,251 4,350 56 6,674 2,324 6, 530 144 4, 690 1,840 5, 992 1,302 .5,037 955 5, .520 483 4,840 680 5, 330 490 5,000 330 5,750 750 6,000 250 5,330 670 5,830 500 5,771 59 4, .558 1, 213 5,411 8.53 5, 8.52 441 5, 590 262 6,180 590 5,780 400 7,-200 1,420 6,190 1,010 .5, 430 760 5,700 270 5,140 560 5,234 94 4,860 374 SIDE EECONNAISSANCES. ■5 a Names of places. Salt Lake City, Upper street, near Brigbara Tonng's Salt Lake ..-l-- DepAt camp in Round Prairie, about one ntilt* below Torbert CaQon Moutbof Coal Creek Canon, 5mili-s trom Depot lamp Coal Creek, 4 miles below summit, 7 inib'.s up raiKni Camp near head of Coal Creek, one-rointli mile Imm .summit, and about ISJ i Summit of Uintah range, neat bead of Coal Creek Camp on Potts's Creek, 7^ miles from summit Five and onehalf miles lower down, on Potto's Creek... .Iiinetion of Potts's Cr.ek with Doehcsne liles from Dep6t camp . On Do. I,. 1-3* Su ,,.,1 V, ,71m.l.;sli- outh of Potts's Creek Fork with the Uintah •anogos River and Kansas Prairie last branch of South Fork of Weber , < of the Weber, one-eighth of a mile from camp of last fall, amp- Head of branch of Porter's Creek, 1 mile from summit Fourteen and one. half miles from camp Summit on trail to White Clay Crock Crossing of West Fork of Bear River Summit west of Muddy Creek, SO miles from FortBridger. 4,300 4, 170 5.786 6, 181 8,400 9. .5:10 9,680 8. 0.50 7, .560 6.814 6,280 5, 345 6, 9.55 6, 244 6, 760 8, 95:t 8, 7.54 8,077 7, 676 7,395 7. 475 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX G. ESTIMATE OF APPEOPRIATIOIS lEEDED FOR ROADS TERRITORY OF UTAH. A.F»PE:isrDi:K Cx ESTIMATE OF AIM'ROPRIAITONS NEEDED PROM CONGRESS TO I'ROI'ERLY IMPROVE THE ROUTES IN THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. Tlje following letter from Bvt. Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston, commanding the Depart- ment of Utah, to Col. Samuel Cooper, Adjutant-General United States Army, written August 26, 1859, in reference to the roads I have explored and opened in Utah, is here presented in erfcnso, both on account of the value set by the general on the routes I have opened, and of the intimation it gives of his having instructed me to examine certain portions of them with a view to the formation of an estimate for their furtlicr improvement: HBADQUAnTBR.S DEPARTMENT OF UTAII, Camp Floyd, Utah, August 26, 1S59. Coi.oNKi.: On Captain Simpson's rotiiin from liis exploration westward (which has resulted, as has been hereto- fore reported, in his finding the shortest and best route from tliis valley to California via Carson Valley, and three hundred miles nearer than any other route from Salt Lake City), believing that the season was so far advanced that he would not be able to examine the country through to the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains on the most direct course to Fort Leavenworth (which it was expected in the spring he would have liad time to do after making the exploration westward), before winter, he was instructed, in furtherance of that object, to ascertain if a route with an easy grade could be found from near the source of the Timpauogos River across to the Uintah River, and down into Green River- He proceed, d to Round Prairie, on Tinipanogos River, from which i)lacc he commenced his explorations; and I now have the gratification to communicate the result, which will be found in his report from camp No. 3, Rouud Prairie, Timpauogos Valley, by which the honorable Secretary of War will be informed of his successful exploration ou the contemplated eastern route as far as Green River. This discovery, when the route is made passable by the removal of trees and brush, which are the chief obstructions, will enable travelers to avoid making the great detour south, which was unavoidably made by Colonel Loring ou his march to New Mexico. I learn from the guide who was employed in the search for the route, that it can be continued without an obstacle, up White River, into either jiart in which are sources of the Plattcs, Arkansas, and various atHneuts of Green River. The only question, then, to be determined for the completion of an unexceptionable road from this camp on the most direct route to Fort Leavenworth, through the gold region, which will, from geological indicatious, no doubt, prove more productive on the western .slope than ou tlie eastern, is as to the practicability of getting down from the middle or South Park to the foot of the mountains on the east side. All the infinmation I have, concurs as to the fact of numerous pack-trails down the eastern slope, which encour- ages the hope that a good wagon-route may bo found, or a good road can be constructed; and I respectfully suggest that for that purpose it would be better to conduct any future explorations from the oast side of the mountain. A part of the tide of emigrants has been turned ou Captain Simpson's new road to California via Camp Floyd, and emigrants i)ass d.iily, and others with large herds of stock. The road is now well marked, and its natural state is sufficiently good, except a few places, at wide intervals, where the grade should be reduced, for which purpose I respect- fully recommend that a small a|i[)r(>priation of money should be asked for from Congress, and also an appropriation for reconstructing a i)art of tlio road from this caiiip to Fort Bridger, which was graded by the Mormon population up the Tinipanogos Canon, and to re-imburse them for their outlay in making that part of the road, .and for the expense of building a bridge across that stream, and for grading and bridging such other parts of the road as shall need it. An estimate sulHciently accurate, upou which to found an appropriation, can be furnished by (Captain Simpson, whom I requested to look at the route, on his return, with that view. Whether the great national route in this region of the Rocky Mountains passes by Fort Bridger or the Uintah Pass, it must pass down the Tinipanogos. The Mormons now charge a heavy toll (Mi the graded road down the canon and across the bridge. This road should be free from charge to travelers. 28 BU 218 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. The emigrants should not be subjected to the exactions which are made of them at this and several other places on the route. The Mormons and others who charge tolls, should be repaid their outlay, and travelers relieved from a tax which many are ill able to pay. With great respect, your obedient servant, A. S. Johnston, Colonel Second Cavalry, Bvt. Brig. Gen. U. S. A., Comd^g. Col. Samuel Cooper, Adjutant-General, Wasliington, D. C. It will be noticed that in the above report Greneral Johnston recommends that the Government re-imburse the Mormon people for the outlay they have made in the con- struction of a portion of my route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, and that it thus be relieved from the heavy toll which is now exacted upon it. This portion extends for a distance of 12 miles up the canon of the Timpanogos from its mouth, and the work was executed in the early part of the year 1858, before I explored and opened the route all the way through to Fort Bridger,. in the fall of that year. In order to ascertain the cost of the said turnpike, I addressed the following letter of inquiry to the Hon. W. H. Hooper, Delegate to Congress from Utah: Washington, Dfcf HI 6er fi, 1859. Sir: Believing that it would be expedient to have the road from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, uia the valley of the Timpanogos River, entirely free from toll, I respectfully ask for what amount the Timpanogos River Turnpike Company would sell out its interest in the turnpike portion of that road. I am anxious to know, so that if the amount asked is not unreasonably large, I can recommend to the Department an appropriation for the purpose. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. H. Simpson, Captain Topographical Engineers. Hon. W.H. Hooper, Delegate from the Territory of Utah, Mr. Hooper's J'ej)7f/.* House or Kepresentati'stjs, Washington City, March 2, 1860. Dear Sir: On the 6th of last December I received a letter from you, making inquiry as to the amount the Tim- panogos River Turnpike Company would sell out their road for. Not being able at the time to give the desired infor- mation, I stated to you iu my rei)ly that I would write to Utah upon the subject and learn whether the company were willing to sell, and upon what terms. From Utah, in answer to my communication on this subject, I learn that, by action of the last legislative assembly, the canon-road became the property of the Territory ; that there w.as expended in the construction of said road eighteen thousand nine hundred and uiuety-seveu dollars and sixty-one cents, (It|!l8,9y7.61,) and for labor in locating the road aud supervising the expenditures thereon, one thousand dollars, (fi.OOO,) making a total cost of nineteen tbousaud nine hundred and ninety-seven doU.ars and sixty-one cents, (|19,997.61.) Should the Government wish to purchase the cauon-road at the before-named amount of total cost, and make the requisite appropriation for so doing, doubtless the Territory will be willing to sell said road for that sum. I am, sir, very resiieotfully, your obedient servant, WM. H. Hooper. Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topographical Engineers. Having now presented some of the grounds for the following estimate, I am pre- pared to submit it, premising that as the turnpike portion referred to in Mr. Hooper's letter has been, a great deal of it, excavated from the solid rock, and inclxides an excel- lent bridge over the Tim^Danogos, I do not consider the amount expended by the Ter- ritory in its constrviction extravagant.f * The original transmitted through Bureau of Topographical Eugiiieers, August 2, 1860, to Hon. Secretary of War. tThe details of the routes — at what points they should be improved, and the nature of the improvements— will be found given in myjourualof explorations above; and in my report of December 28, 1858, to General Johnston, of my exploration and opening of the new route from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger via Timpanogos Canon and White Clay Creek. This last report constitutes Son. Ex. Doc. No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d Sess. ESTIMATE OF APPBOPEIATIONS NEEDED FOR ROADS. 219 Estimate of cost of the construction and improvement of Captain Simpson, s tvaf/on-road from Fort Bridgcr to CdUfornia, via WJiite Clay Creek, Timpanogos Cation, Camp Floyd, and his more southern or return route over the Great Basin. For portion of road from I'ort Bridger to divide between Silver Creek and Timpanogos River, to be expended principally in Wliite Clay Creek Valley $20,000 To buy out the interest of the Territory of Utah in the turnpike portion of the road, in Timpanogos Canon, as above 19,997 To improve said turnpike portion by widening it and elevating it sufHciently in places above the contingency of high water in the Timpanogos, and for generally repairing the road all the way from the divide between Silver Creek and the Timpanogos River to Camp Floyd 10,003 Total required for poi-tion of road from Fort Biidger to Camp Floyd 50,000 For route from Camp Floyd to Genoa, via General Johnston's [pass of the Guyot range, and Caj^taiu Simpson's more southern (or more northern) route across the Great Basin (as the War Department may direct), and for niaking water-tanks 50,000 To cany the road across the first or most eastern range of the SieiTa Nevada, from Genoa to Lake Valley, either by the west branch of Carson River, or the Daggett trail, as may be found most expedient by the engineer in charge, and in the latter case the road to join the old one at the summit of Johnston's Pass, or where most advantageous 30,000 Total amount required for the whole road from Fort Bridger to Johnston's Pass 130,000 In the foregoing estimate I have assiuned that it would be best for the Govern- ment to improve my more southern route over the Great Basin. I have done this for the reason that though this route is 29 miles longer than my more northern route, yet the gi'ades of the former are better, and the grass, timber, and cultivable soil upon it more abundant, and the water equally if not more abundant. Should, however, the Government prefer to improve the more northern route, on which the mail and i)ony- express are now running, the above estimate will hold equally good, only instead of the phi'ase "more southern route," that of "more northern route" should be used. Indeed, it might in the low apj^ropriation be left optional with the War Department to apply the money on either route as it might deem best. So much for the road from Fort Bridger to California. By referring to my journal, mider date of August 12, 1859, it Avill be noticed that I explored a very favorable pass fi'om the A^alley of the Timpanogos to that of Green River, over the Uintah range of mountains. This pass can be made available for wagons by the removal of the timber in Coal Creek Valley, on the noilh side of the pass; by the removal of the willows and constniction of some causeways in Potts' Creek Valley, on the south side of the pass; and the filhng up of some of the gullies in the valley of the Duchesne's Fork. The cost of this would be, say, 820,000. This done, the valley of the Duchesne's Fork of Uintah, and possibly of Green River, would be opened to settlement, and the result eventually follow of a wagon-road communication all the way through fi'om the val- ley of Great Salt Lake, by the way of the Timpanogos, Coal Creek, Potts' Creek, 220 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Duchesne's Fork, the Uintah River, and White River, to Breckenridge, at the head of" Bhie River, in the middle park of the Rocky Mountains; from which to Denver City, according to the subjoined letter from Hon. B. D. Williams, there is probably at this date a wagon-road. This I'oute, it will be perceived, will, in connection with mine across the Great Basin, furnish much the shortest route across the continent from the Missouri River, and in adtlition be of incalculable service in the interchange of com- modities between the Mormon population and the people of the gold region about Pike's Peak. To sum up, Congress should appropriate : For the road above specified, from Fort Bridger to the summit of Johnston's Pass of the Sierra Nevada *$130,000 For the road from Round Prairie, in Timpanogos Valley, to the mouth of Duchesne's Fork, b}' the pass of the Uintah range, at the head of Coal Creek 20,000 And for a thoroiigh exploration of the country between the mouth of Du- cliesne's Fork and Denver City, for the shortest and best route across the Rocky Mountains between those points 20,000 I now give the letter of Mr. B. D. Williams, above referred to : Washington City, D. C, January 18, 1860. Sir : At your request I write you ou the subject of a wiigou-road from Deuver City, Jeft'erson Territory, due west to Great Salt Lake City. I would state that I have just received from Mr. George E. Spencer a plat of a town called Breckenridge, situated at the mouth of Freuch Creek, which empties into Blue Kiver. This point is where the gold was discovered last fall and is about one hundred miles from Deuver City nearly west, and about sixty miles beyond the main divide of the Rocky Mountains. A short history of the prospecting of this country, perhaps, may be interesting. About the month of August last some straggling miners ciossed the " snowy range" in search of gold, and, after prospecting for a short time, a portion returned to Denver City for provisions, .and made it known that they had made new and good discoveries of gold; at once quite a rush took place for the newly-discovered tields, which were thoroughly prospected before the cold weather set in, so as to satisfy all that there was no humbug in this matter. Several hundred wagons crossed the range in the fall and returned, iis hate as the 10th of October. John N. Miug.an enterprising merchant .at Auraria, fitted out and sent over some wagon-loads of goods which met with ready sale. Since that time there has a company of men obtained from the legislature a charter to build a wagou-road to said point, and are now eng.aged in prosecuting the same to an early completion. They assure me that they will, by the Ist day of May, have the road fully completed, and that six yoke of oxen can haul 5,000 pounds over the mountains to said point. 1 am informed that there is but little impedi- ment in getting a good road on to White River. Then foUow that river to where it empties into Grand River, and which is described by Captain FrcSmont in 1845, I feel satisfied in stating that there can, with but little expense, be a good and permanent wagon-road got, which will be, as you can easily see, .about the fortieth parallel of latitude. I cannot speak with the same certainty in reference to the pr.aoticability of the road beyond Breckenridge .as I can on this side. You will understand that Breckenridge is in the Middle Park beyoud the range of the mountains. I hope that there will be an appropriation made to explore this country, and open a good road across this country. I am assured that it is about one linndred miles nearer than the old road by Laramie, and I am assured by those who know the country well that the snow will not impede the travel in winter. Hoping this iuformatiou will be of some benefit to you, I am, respectfully, yours, B. D. WlLLi.\MS, Delegate Jefferson Territory. Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topoyraphical Eiujlneers. All of which is respectfully submitted. J. H. Simpson, Captu'm Topographical Engineers. December 29, 1860. Col. J. J. Abert, Chief Corps Topographical Engineers. * I have been informed that the people of California and Western Utah, since my exploration, have been engaged in milking the road from Genoa, across the east br.anch of the Sierra Nevada, by the Daggett trail, to Johnston's Pass. If so, and they have completed it, .|30,000 of the above estim.ated |130,000 may be deducted. EXPLOEATIONS ACEOSS THE GEEAT BASIN OF UTAH, APPENDIX II. MAGNETIC OBSEEVATIONS RESULTS. ^PFEIS^DIX H. MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. The f(illowing table of tlie iiiag-uetic clip (or inclination), declination (or varia- tion), and horizontal intensity of various points along the route from Fort Leaven- worth, via Fort Kearney, P^ort Laramie, and the South Pass, to Fort Bridger, and thence, via Camp Floyd, by my new more northern route, to Genoa, in Carson Val- ley, will not be without interest and value to the physicist as well as surveyor. The instruments used and experiments resorted to, as well as the method of at- taining the ultimate values of the magnetic elements, will be found stated in the fol- lowing communication of Lieutenant Putnam, Topographical Engineers, my assistant, by whom the observations were chiefly made. The Jones uniiilar magnetometer used by us was the one Dr. Kane had with him on his second Grinnell expedition to the Arctic Ocean, in search of Sir John Franklin ; and though it was not altogether such in its form or capabilities as I could have wished, yet, for the reason that I could pro- cure no other and there was not time to have one made, I could not do Ijetter than to take it. For a paper on the mode of conducting the experiments with this instrument, and with the dip circle (or inclinometer), as well as of obtaining the mathematical value of the elements involved, which has been of great service to us in facilitating our work, I am indebted to Mr. J. E. Hilgard, of the Coast Siirvey, whose zeal in this branch of scientific research is not greater than his ability, and to whom I have now to express my grateful acknowledg-ments. In comparing the declination by the magnetometer (converted into a declinome- ter) and compass observations on Polaris, as given in the subjoined table, it will be noticed that there is a considerable difference between the results obtained ; and that in one instance (at Fort Bridger) it reaches as much as 2° 6' 50". At first I was dis- posed to reject the declinations as shown by the declinometer altogether, supposing that this great difference was owing to a defectiveness on the })art of the instrument, but perceiving, on examining the reductions of Dr. Kane's observations in the months of January, February, and March, 1854, at Van Rensselaer Harbor, by Mr. Charles A. Schott, assistant. United States Coast Survey, that he gives the following as a class- ification of the daily ranges according to their magnitudes, I have come to the con- clusion, as the observations were taken with a great deal of care, that the differences have arisen doubtless from the observations by the declinometer having been taken dur- ing the day, and those by compass during the night, in connection with the delicate nature of the declinometer, and that the results, therefore, as scientific facts, are worthy of recox'd. 224 EXPLOEATIONS ACEOSS THE GEEAT BASIN OF UTAH. Mr. Scliott's classification of Dr. Kane's 17 daily observations Is as follows: Daily range less than 1° 1 Daily range between 1° and 2° 6 Daily range between 2° and 3° 4 Daily range between 3° and 4° 3 Daily range between 4° and 5° ;{ Daily range greater than 5° .•. 0 The observations we made were qnite numerous, but as they are filed in the Bu- reau of Topographical Engineers for reference, it is thought best not to incumber the report with them, but only to subjoin a set of each as a specimen of the rest. The results, however, are presented below in a tabulated form, and also graphically on the small charts of the declination and inclination of the needle herewith (see Plate). These charts, I would remark, so far as the data shown across the continent, from Fort Smith, Ark., to the canon of Chelly, in New Mexico, and from Fort Leavenworth to Genoa, in Carson Valley, are concerned, are an extension by me of the latest charts on this subject from the United States Coast Survey. The Superintendent of the Coast Survey, Prof A. D. Bache, has kindly furnished me with their latest mag- netic charts, and it is a gratification to me, by my explorations in 1849, from Fort Smith, via Santa Fd, to the cailon of Chelly, and by my recent expedition from Fort Leavenworth to Genoa, to be thus able to supply a great deal of magnetic data, which will extend our knowledge of this element over a larger area of our coiuitry, and make these charts still more useful. In addition to the above I would make the following remarks in relation to the electric condition of the atmosphere in the Great Basin. I have noticed that my flan- nel, when cast off at night before retiring to rest, would evince, by a crackling sound, that it was highly charged. This Avould frequently be the case in combing one's whis- kers, or handUng a bear-skin. All this doubtless points to the very dry state, and, therefore, non-conducting power, of the air, and the non-escape of tlie electric fluid from terrestrial bodies esJcept by the proximity of others. I would also extract the following from my report of my explorations in the fall of 1858, in Utah, as bearing on this suliject : " It is astonishing to notice the effect of the wliirls and gusts of wind upon the magnetic needle, or, more properly speaking, to see the action of the magnetic needle at the time these whirls and gusts are in development. The fact of these disturbances appearing' together does not necessarily point to the same cause producing both, but makes it strongly probable that the cause is one and the same in both cases. The needle, whenever these gusts and whirls are in exhibition, would stick either to the north or south end of the Ijottom of the l^ox, and no change of position coidd make it stir. Sometimes the effect would be to disturb the needle very much, and to make it point indifferently to any point of the compass. Wlien, however, the gusts would cease, the needle would act normally as usual."* A somewhat similar phenomenon exhiljited itself subsequently at Camp Floyd, in March, 1859, when, however, the weather was fair, though there was some little wind. I was verifying some observations for magnetic declination, by placing a surveyor's compass, on the meridian, immediately over the ti'ansit station, with the intention of * See Senate Ex. Doe., No. 40, 35th Cong., 2d session, p. 28. MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. 225 reading the declination directly from the needle. The needle, however, I perceived, would not traverse. Supposing the glass cover pressed upon it, I took it off, when the needle moved freely and normally. Poinding, however, the wind agitated it too much to allow it to come to a state of rest, I placed the glass back, and found, on a closer examination, that it did not touch the needle, lint still the needle would not traverse. I again took ofi" the glass and the needle again traversed freely. I then extended the glass to its place on the needle gradualli), when I noticed the effect of the proximity was to paralyze the needle, and that in proportion to the proximity, so that when the glass was in its place the motion of the needle was entirely paralyzed. The cause, then, of the neecUe not^traversing was the influence of the glass cover in its then ab- normal state. Finding the compass to be of no service for the purpose in view, I sub- stituted another in its place, which I found to work well witliout any signs of distiirb- ing agency. Some days after this I had occasion to again use the first-named com- pass, when I found the needle acted normally. The cause, then, of the disturbance above referred to was on account of the acci- dental abnormal state of the glass cover at the time, and not from anj^ permanent dis- turbing cause. It is not understood, however, ^^'hat caused the abnormal condition of the glass of the first large surveyor's compass. Both it and the second surveyor's com- pass were taken out of their respective boxes jiist before using them, and the state of the wind was by no means one of irregularity. Besides, if it had arisen fi'om the at- mosphere, what affected the one ought to have affected the other, as they had both been subjected to the same handling. I have thought it proper to note these irregularities in the magnetic needle on ac- count of its bearings upon the accuracy of sm'veys depending upon its nonnal state, and the necessity of watching to see that no such disturbing causes are in operation at the time bearings are taken with it. I think there can be no doubt that frequently iiTCgularities, which have been attributed to local attraction, have arisen from this source, and not from the "presence of metallic substances to which they have been ascribed ; and it is very probable, too, that these irregularities, in all such cases, have been but temporary.* (See, also. Appendix E, pages 78 and 79.) * Since writiug the foregoing I bave become acquainted with Mr. W. H. Paine, surveyor and civil engineer, of She- boygan, Wisconsin, who has furnished me with the following letter, corroborative of the inexplicable character of the abnormal condition of the magnetic needle at certain periods: " Washington, D. C, January 9, 1861. "Dear Sir: Agreeably to your reint-i heticeen Fort Leavenworth, Kans., and Genoa, Carson Valley, Nevada, as determined in the explora- tions of Capt. J. II. Simpson, topographical engineers, in 1858 aiid 1859 : May 6, 1858 Jiiue 5, 18.'i8 Juno 8, 1858 Jnne 9. 1858 Oct 8, 1859 Jnno 1-i 185H June 15, 1858 Oct. 5, 1859 Jnno 2!), 1858 Jnly 7. 1858 Sept. 30, 1859 Jnlv 11,1858 Jnly 18, 1858 Julv 22, 1858 Sunt. 24. 1639 Jnlv 26, 1858 Sept. 20, 1659 Jnly 30,18.58 Aug. 7, 1858 Aug. 11, 1658 Aug. 15,18.58 Aug. 17, 1658 Aug. 23, 1858 Aug. 26, 1858 Sept. 3, 1858 Sept. 11,1858 ADril2l, 1859 May 4, ieS9 May 8, 1&50 May 10, 1859 May H, IS.W May 16, 1859 May 19,1859 May 22, 1859 May 28. 1859 June 5, 1859 Juno 8,H859 June IS, 1859 Fort Leavenworth Little Mnildv Creek '. Vermillion (>eek Big Blue Kiver KnckCieck BigSandv Ri%-er Little Bliie Kiver Elin Creek Fort Kearney Camp No. 20 Platte Kiver Camp No. 22 Camp So. 25 Ash Hollow North Platte Chimney Kock North Piatt© Fort Laramie La Bont6 River Five miles west of Doer Creek Grease wood Creek Sweetwater Eivor , do Little Sandy Creek Fort Brid^er Snyder's Creek Camp Floyd Simpson's Spring Sulphur Spring Antelope Valley. Eagan Canon Hunringdou Spring, east side Ruby Valley Cho-knp Pa.19 Ko-bah Vallej- Jleese River Carson Lake Big Bend. "Walker's River Genoa, Carson Valley 21 14 35 00 57 00 00 00 11 00 12 00 15 00 30 00 38 00 40 00 58 30 05 00 03 00 21 00 23 on 43 00 58 00 12 00 35 00 53 00 40 00 38 on 30 00 15 00 20 23 56 00 13 18 01 55 40 36 46 36 51 46 00 29 .53 30 44 34 29 29 23 37 08 39 59 33 94 40 00 95 34 00 96 16 03 96 35 00 97 02 00 97 12 00 98 10 00 98 .30 00 98 .56 00 99 54 on 100 35 00 100 50 00 101 50 00 102 03 00 102 15 00 103 30 00 104 00 00 104 31 00 105 22 00 105 57 00 107 07 00 107 25 00 108 35 00 109 40 00 110 23 47 111 42 00 112 08 07 112 47 18 113 46 19 114 12 22 114 .53 IS 115 19 11 115 44 36 116 10 29 117 02 41 118 30 01 118 56 00 119 40 30 14 34 36 18 22 35 18 28 22 20 23 39 19 41 05 19 56 24 20 44 17 19 36 50 19 54 57 16 34 48 16 42 10 15 55 25 16 47 16 18 05 59 17 02 29 16 43 33 17 03 10 17 10 42 16 55 41 16 17 50 16 26 00 'ie'se'oo 69 28 51 69 34 45 70 08 59 69 19 30 69 69 32 50 37 33 70 69 14 37 52 11 69 46 07 70 02 2T 70 13 11 70 02 36 70 15 11 70 28 51 70 01 15 69 .53 15 69 34 48 68 59 al 68 05 07 67 10 04 66 29 10 66 53 .55 65 07 07 65 19 14 65 25 25 65 19 15 64 55 44 64 -24 52 64 01 59 63 36 41 64 II 31 The observations for magnetic intensity give for x, the hoiizontal component of the earth's magnetic force, as follows: At Fort Leavenworth, Kans., May 10, 1858, «z=4,368; at Fort Kearney, Kans., June 24, 1858, a;=5,0194; at Camp Floyd, Utah, March 25, 1859, ,t=5,3750. 228 EXPLORATIOXS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. (Form used ] Horizontal intensity.— ExpcrlmenU of vibration.— Camp halfmile south of Fort Leavemcorth, May 10, 1858. — Magnet A 07, Inertia ring, Z.— Chronometer 1821. 11 ;2; a i * e. S P Calcnlations. — Obs e r v e d time of 200 vibrations = 752«.3. Time of vibra- tions = 3». 76. 0 10 20 30 40 50 100 200 10 20 30 40 50 h. m. s. 4 03 21 4 03 58 4 04 35 4 05 12 4 03 50 4 06 28 4 09 38 4 15 55 4 16 31 4 17 07 4 17 44 4 18 32 4 18 59 67 180 390 m. t. T C. 57518 T" 1. 15036 :r2 k 1. 33940 m X 0. 18904 • m 9. 54876 X 0. 64028 '-? 8. 90849 mx 0. 18904 m> 9. 09753 m 9. 54376 • = 4.368 280 320 12 34 12 33 12 32 12 32 12 32 12 31 450 140 12 32 Observer, Capt. J. H. Simpson. Horizontal intensity. — Deflections irith theodolite magnetometer. — Camp, i mile .^outh of Fort Leaven- worth, May 19, lSo8. — Magnet A 67, deflecting at right angles to magnet I 10, suspended. [Distance r = 1. 3 feet. Log. = 0. 11394.] 1 -3 g Circle readings. Circle readings. ll No. A B Mean. No. A B Mean. o / " o / /' , „ ..i E. W. 1 70 53 20 52 00 52 40 o 62 51 20 51 00 51 10 H E. W. 3 70 49 45 48 40 49 10 ■1 62 52 00 45 40 48 50 E. 5 70 -49 40 49 00 49 20 Mean 8° 50' 23" o 1 n / II / // 0 1 II , II w. 6 62 49 00 48 00 48 30 m E. 7 70 53 00 52 20 52 40 ^ W. 8 62 49 20 48 00 48 40 E. 9 70 54 00 53 20 53 40 W. 10 62 49 00 48 00 Mean 8° 04' 30" Mag.E. 2u = 8 50 23 Mag.W.2u=8 04 30 Mean 8 27 26.5 « =4 13 43.25 Beginning time 11.25 a. m. ; temperature 82°.5. Ending time 2.40 p. m.; temperature 74^. Sin. M Logarithms. 9. 69897 0. 34183 8. 86769 8. 90849 Observer, Capt. J. H. Simpson. MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS. 229 (Form UHud.] Magnetic dij).— Genoa, Nevada, June 14, 185d.^Needle No. 1. — Observer , Lieutenant Putnam, A. 8., OR UhPBIt END. Circle east. Circle west. Face east. Face west. Face east. Face west. A. B. A. B. A. B. A. B. 0 - o - o , o / o / 0 / 0 < o - 63*15 63 14 64 8 64 4 64 9 1 64 8 64 41 64 37 With poles reversed. 63 2 63 2 62 31 62 29 65 34 65 33 64 5 64 4 63° 6 ' 15" 63° 1 y 30" 64° 51' 64° 21' 45" 63° 12' 23" 64° 36' 22" 1 63° 54' 22" Needle No. 2. — Observer, Lieutenant Putnam, A. 8., OK IIFPEH BND. 63 16 I 63 14 63 49 63 46 64 36 64 38 64 13 64 14 With poles reversed. 65 4 I 65 2 64 46 I 64 45 64 55 64 56 65 11 65 12, 64° 09' 64° 17' 64° 13' 64° 46' 15" 64° 42' 30" 64° 44' 22" 2)128 23 03 Grand mean or mag- netic dips 64 11 31 [Form used.] Magnetic declinatmi or azimuth between the true and magnetic meridian. Camp one-half mile sonth of Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, May 25, 1S58.— Uulfilar masnetometcr No. 3.— Magnet I 10. From magnetic station to magnetic south point (mirror above) : Limb of magnetometer reads, first vertical 67 53 40 Limb of maguetometor reads, second vertical 247 52 20 230 BXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. (Mirror below 0 o / " Limb of magnetometer reads, first vertical 70 07 40 Limb of magnetometer reads, second vertical 250 07 20 Mean '0 07 30 Grand mean of magnetic south point - 69 00 15 True south point reads, first vertical 57 01 20 True south point reads, second vertical 237 00 Mean 57 01 00 Difference of mean readings or magnetic azimuth 11° 59' 15" E. Lieut. H. S. Putnam, Observer. Note. — In the above case the true meridian had been determined by an observation on Alioth (e, Urace Majoris) and Polaris, and marked on the ground. In our observations on the march the magnetic azimuth of the sun was observed and the true azimuth (or meridian) determined from the known time, latitude, and declination. EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX HH. EAItROAD-EOTJTES THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. RAILROAD ROUTES TROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. [By Cai't. .1. II. SiMi'.^ox, Coups Topographical E.voinkeus, U. S. Akmy.] As it may be expected of me, on account of my explorations over different por tions of the country lying between the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers and tlie Pacific Ocean, that I should express my views in relation to the g-reat question of one or more railroads across the continent, I do not know how I can better do so than to include, as a poi'tion of my report, the following letter which I addressed on this subject to a citizen of Buffalo, January 20, 1859, when I was at Camp Floyd. At that date I had not made the explorations I have since over the Great Basin of Utah, and I will, there- fore, premise that what I have said in this letter, in relation to the middle or Beckwith railroad route, I am constrained, from the expeiience I now have, to modify, so far as to state that, while I do not consider (as I have reported in the inti-od^uction to my report) my route across the Great Basin a railroad route, yet I do believe that that suggested by Ca])tain Beckwith, from the south end of Great Salt Lake to the head of the Humboldt, and thence down its valley at least to where it shoidd leave said valley to strike and cross the Sierra Nevada, will be found to be practicable. What should be the line from the Humboldt to and across the Sien-a Nevada is a question which, probably, is mcn-e o])en to doubt ; though I should gather, from Captain Beckwith's report, that even in tliis section iiis grades do not preclude the practicability of the route.* • I will also premise that, as the accumulation of the snows in tlie high mountain- passes is more due to successive snow-storms, and non-melting of the snow, and. thus every storm adding something to the quantity, than to a foil of it at any one period, wliich might, as often as it occurred, be removed with probably no very great difficulty, I do not consider the snow in the mountains as great a hinderance to a railroad across the continent, on the middle route, as my letter below indicates. With these modifications, I now ])resent the letter as expressing my present views on this subject. Railroad across the United States, from the Atlai/fic to the Pari/ic. Camp Floyd, Utah, January 20, ISoO. Dear Sir : Your letter of the 9tli ultimo I had the gratification to receive by the last mail. You request of me my views in relation to tlie Pacific Railroad, which you • See vol. ii, Pacific Railroad Reports. 30 b U 234 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. are pleased to think my familiarity with the country and long consideration of the various projects suggested qualify me to give. My experience in relation to this sub- ject consists in my having made, with Captain Marcy, in 1849, the first survey of the Fort Smith and Zuni route, as far as the Rio Grande, each taking notes for the purpose; thence, to Zuni, I was alone engaged in the I'econnaissance, and in my report of this survey I pointed out, for the first time, the great importance to the Government, on the score of grade and distance, of ordering a further reconnaissance of a route in the same direction all the way to the Pacific. My reports of both these explorations have been published by the Government, and they are available to those who may take any interest in the history of explorations in this country. My ^^ews in relation to a Pacific railroad diftered very miich from those of Colonel Fremont and other officers of the Government ; but as they did not flatter the public mind into the belief that the project was one of immediate accomplishment, but one, if ever made, only to grow out of cu-cumstances which might be made normal to its accomplishment, they, doubt- less, were considered of but little value, and, therefore, excited no attention. It is, however, gratifpng to find that the very mode I suggested as being the only one which would bring the railroad at length, if it was to come at all, has, for about two years back, been followed by the Government ; that is, by opening the several routes as military, post, and emigration roads, and thus making the cu'cumstances normal to a proper knowledge of the routes, and of the capability of the country in relation to them. The Fort Smith and Zuni route has, since my exploration and reports, be( n surveyed by Captain Whipple, who extended it all the way to California, and its extension is now being worked by Mr. E. F. Beale, for a wagon-road, under the direc- tion of the Government. Since my exploration of the route referred to, in 1850, I was over the Santa F^ and Fort Leavenworth route on my return to the States. From May, 1851, to June, 1856, for five years, I was in charge of the General Government roads in the Terri- tory of Minnesota, one of which extended from Saint Paul to Pembina, another from Point Douglass to Lake Superior, another from Mendota to the mouth of the Big Sioux River, and several other roads, all of which, of course, gave me an oj^jportunity of knowing something of the country and climate in that quarter. Since then, during the past year, you are aware of my journeyings to Utah, by Fort Kearney and the North Platte, and of my reconnaissance east and west of Camp Floyd. I mention all this to show my experience in the matters of which I am about to treat, so that my discussion of the subject, may be regarded for what it is worth. The mail leaves to- morrow morning, and I am, therefore, obliged to write rapidly and not as fully as I could wish, though my convictions are none the less decided, on account of long con- sideration of the several routes. DISCUSSION OF THE SUBJECT. The public mind has, for a number of years past, ever since the great exodus to California, growing out of the discovery of large deposits of gold in that region, been greatly exercised in relation to the importance and speedy completion of one or more railroads connecting the Atlantic with the Pacific Ocean, across the continent of North RAILKOAD ROUTES. 235 America, and tlirough our national domain. The change created in the minds of men with regard to tlie real situation of California, in respect to its remote distance from the Atlantic States, by the establishment of a line of steamers on either ocean to the IstlnnuS of Panama, which would waft the emigrant to the golden jiort of the Pacific coast, the bay of San Francisco, in one-eighth of the time it was wont to take around Cape Horn; quickly restore him to his friends to tell them what he had seen; and speedily transmit the mails by Avhich the news was kept constantly recurring and fresh, all of which was read by the public Avith the greatest avidity, have conspired to bring mentally the Pacific coast and its adjoining region very near to us, when, really, in a physical point of view, it is just as far distant as ever. The consecpience has been that what before was believed to be perfectly chimer- ical, the construction of a railroad across the continent, is now regarded as a thinf certain; and not onh^ so, but that it will be accomplished in a few years; people do not say how many, but I suppose they vaguely mean fi-om three to five. Such were the ideas which prevailed ten years ago, and yet not the first certain step has been taken in the consummation of the project. Not a foot of railroad has been laid which may fairly be called a part of the great national railroad, and which has been under- taken Avith any decided determination to push the road across the continent. This long lapse of time between the conception of a project of vast importance and the commencement of the undertaking is, however, only the fruit of causes which httve been existing all along, and which were fii-st pointed out by the writer, as before stated, in his reports of the Fort Smith route in 1849. Nature remains the same now upon this vast theater between the Mississippi on the east and the Pacific on the west it ever did. The long dreary waste of deserts still are experienced by the toiling, weary emigrant as long and di-earj'- as ever, and the Rocky and other mountains still rear their majestic peaks and ridges, and boldly challenge the strength, energy, and perseverance of the way-worn traveler. The triith is, facts are stubborn things, and he, be he engineer, statesman, or phi- losopher, who ignores them, will at length fitul that he has been following but a vain conceit, Avhich will eventually land him, where an attainable prescience might have forewarned him, into a condition of vain inanity, or, it may be worse, of litter ruin. We have been led into these reflections by the history of tlie railroad question, which only within the past two or three years has been approximating toward a solu- tion. In our judgment, facts have been ignored, and desires and vain expectations have been entertained by politicians, and I may say the peojile generallv, Avhich have eventuated in results that might from the first have been anticipated, under reports A\hich it appears to me (in all humility I say it) ought to have dwelt more upon the difficulties of the project, and of the mode in which they are to be determined and met, than ni)on fanning the public mind with the hot haste which thus fiir has residted only in finding, at a late date, from actual observation and experience, that the mode of building tlie road is, first, to prepare the way by common roads, and opening them to settlement and cultivation, and that then the railroad will normally come, if it comes at all. Now, all this misa)iprehension of the failure in regard to the com2)letion of the 236 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. railroad, as we tliink, lias been owing to two causes, botli of which, singly and together, have been operating to produce it. One is the perfect ignorance of the people in respect to the character of the country through which the railroad or railroads are to be built, and, therefore, their inability to realize the true state of the case. The other is the seemingly studious way in which the stubborn tacts of the project and iinpalat- able truths have been kept in the background. I say seemingly studious, for so at first glance it might appear, though I think it has arisen from a habit of mind to dwell, in descriptions of country, upon that which is pleasing, and caring but little to dwell upon that Avhich, though a truth of the greatest importance in the premises, is forbid- dino-; I refer to the almost utter barrenness which characterizes, as a whole, the expanse of country for hundi-eds, I may almost say thousands, of miles along the sev- eral routes. Now, when I speak of the ignorance of the people in respect to the char- acter of the country, I do not speak of it in the way of reproach. Far from it, but only as a fact which they cannot help, and which is connnon to the most intelligent, and all because, having seen nothing of the same kind in their own experience, they cannot, even by any description which others may give, come up, in their own con- ceptions, to the utter barrenness and worthlessness, speaking as a whole, which this country throughout nearly its whole extent presents. For example, the fact may be told a hundred times that the great area of the country, from about two hundred miles west of the States of Arkansas and Missouri, nearly the whole way to the Pacific, is one unmitigated desert (iuchuling within this also barren mountains), which a person who has seen it would scarcely take as a gift; and yet, notwithstanding all this, annually you will see bills brought forward in Con- gress in which the land along the route figures as a very important element in the ways and means to construct the road. Should Congress send out a committee to spy out the utter poverty of the land, as it really exists, it is possible it may be brought to a standpoint from which members will see the fact as it is, and the difiiculties on this account, and others may then loom up sufficiently to assure them that the constmiction of this road will require something more to accomplish it than the legislation which has attended the construction of roads in our densely populated and fertile States, where all is normal to immediate and certain results. But should not one or more railroads be built across our countr)'? Should not our Pacific possessions and population be brought into closer relation by the quick response of sympathy, social, commercial, and military, which this mode of transit would engender? Should not the trade of the great nations of China and Japan, which by treaty has lately been opened to us, be made available to us as a people and a nation, by the establishment of a hard-iron railway, which, by its slight friction and the steam-car, would rapidly possess us of the rich [)roducts of those countries! Does not the quick concentration of troops, necessary in time of danger from tlii'eat- ened invasion, as well as the close bond which should ever subsist between the remotest and all portions of our confederacy, make such a project a sine qua non of safety from our enemies from without, and of amity and harmony within? To all this we most indubitably reply yes. But how shall we go to work to bviild these roads, and what routes shall we take? Shall we have but one road, and that KAILEOAD ROUTES. 237 tlirouji-li Northern Texas and Mexico; or shall we take the middle route, tlirou{|fh Utah; or would it be best to tmiti\' along" the whole line of , coarser than the main body of the strata, and forming steps in tlie escarpment. 3. 10 feet, a thicker stratum of such sandstone. 4. 50 feet, finely arenaceous, and some argillo-arenaceous material, fonning vertical escarpments, but rather soft and not rocky. % 5. 10 feet more solid, and a little coarser sandstone. (). 50 feet fine, loose material, like No. 4, with the two white chalky strata, in which there is a good deal of calcareous substance, and a stratum of coarser loose sand. 7. 105 feet finely arenaceous strata, with interstratiticatious of more argillo-arenaceous shales. 8. 30 feet buff-colored argillo-arenaceous shales, containing far more sand than clay. Three hundi-ed and five feet is the total altitude above Lawrence Fork, which would probably correspond to 450 feet above Platte River. The Chinuiey Rock is about 11 miles, in a straight line, distant from the Court- house Rock, in west-northwesterl}^ direction. About 2 miles from the river it rises above the sandy hills, presenting a huge column on a, conic base. It is remarkable how this slender spire of rather soft rocks could have been preserved in its isolated position, while the same foi'mations all around were demolished. Its upper part is cleft asunder, and threatens to fall (Ioaa'u. That it has been higher, and the uppermost portion has been destroyed, within the memoiy of now living men, may be no idle story. The masses of rock which cover the base correspond to those of the highest strata in the vicinity, and can only have come there by falling from the chimney. A short distance from it we find the bluffs with which .it has unquestionably been con- nected in former times. The following section of the strata was obtained, partly at the Chimney Rock, partly, where I could not climb higher there, from the corresponding .strata of these bluffs, which exceed it in height by l.'>0 feet : a. 130 feet — the top of the hluff, not altogether well exposed. 1. 130 feet loose, grayish, and buff-colored sandstone, of a middle fine grain, ii'regu larly interspersed with concretionary masses of a harder sandstone, and with more regular, thicker seams of it, generally forming steps in the slope, 10 to 15 feet a])art. The lowest 30 feet form one step, with only a ledge of such rock on to}), besides the irregular masses which are di.spersed through it. b. 115 feet — the chimney Itself, with a diameter of about 50 feet at the base, and only slightly tapering upward. 264 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. 2. 5 feet, lig-lit brownish-gray, loose, middle fine-grained sandstone, with some harder seams, especially on top, where there is also a thin calcareous ledge, like 9. 3. 10 feet, similar loose, middle fine sandstone, free of harder seams and concre- tions, and of light brownish-gray color. 4. I foot, seam of hard, finely-gi'ained sandstone, of irregular thickness. 5. 12 feet loose sandstone, like 3. 6. 30 feet, like 2, with irregular, harder seams and concretions, cajiped by such a harder ledge, varjang in thickness from ^ to IJ feet. 7. ^ foot bluish-gray, not very compact, sandstone. 8. 7 feet hke 3. 9. ^ foot white seam, areno-calcareous, partly chalky, partly subcrystalline. 10. 12 feet, like 3. 11. J foot, white seam, like 9. 12. 15 feet, like 3. . 13. 1 foot, like 3, but dark gray. 14. 19 feet, like 3, but light gray and laminated. 15. 2 feet, like 3, in places more or less whitish and slightly calcareous. c. 223 feet — the conic base and the pedestal. 16. 45 feet; dark buff-colored, purely arenaceous shales, so largely developed in the sections given above, and forming also the pedestal. 17. 110 feet; the .same, light buff-colored. * 18. 8 feet ; white, very light rock, chalky and in-egularly interspersed with fine sand. It is a mixture of sand with silicate of lime, and quite similar to the rock from the South Platte, an analysis of which has been given on page 261. 19. 60 feet, like 17 ; the upper portion more argillaceous. d. Beloiv the base in a ravine. 20. 35 feet, like 7. 21. 5 feet middle fine, gray, loose sandstone. The total altitude of the Chimney Rock from the base is, therefore, 338 feet; that of the whole section 506 feet; and the elevation of No. 21 above the river may be put down at 60 or 100 feet. The Avhite stratum. No. 18, may still be seen at the foot of the Perpendicular Bluff, some miles farther west. In Scott's Bluffs it is a few feet above the highe.st point of the road in the gap, biit is there more grayish and arenaceous. Below it we again find the buff argillo-arenaceous "strata, No. 19, but here rather more clayey; and the higher layers also coiTespond to those enumerated above. The height of the white stratum here is estimated at 200 feet above the ri^^er, about the same as at Chimney Rock; tlie stratification, therefore, appears to correspond to the fall of the river. The total altitude of Scott's Bluffs is about 525 feet, including nearly the whole of the pre- ceding section, and some lower strata. The arenaceous and areno-argillaceous shales continue down to the river, inter- stratified with a few irregular seams of calcareous or harder and coarser arenac6ous material. In these strata highly-interesting organic remains have been discovered GEOLOGICAL EEPORT. 2G5 lately — fossil turtles and the bones of various nianiiiials. Traveling in forced marches, we' were luiluokily prevented from collecting much. Some of tho bones were sub- mitted to the eminent osteologist, I'rof. Joseph Leidy, of Philadelphia, who kindly volunteered in examining them. He recognizes them as belonging to Dcinistis felina, a large carniverous animal related to the weasel, and to some ruminant pachydciin, perhaps Oiroihii, wliicli Ijoth, like the turtles, occur also in the ]\Iiocene formations of the bad lands of White Kivcr. The lithological character of these strata seems, like- wise, to be similar, and indications are strong that both formations are of the same age, and have perhaps been deposited in the same basin. In the banks of a ravine, in the lowest strata of tho above section, the bones of a luige animal have been found. A ]\[r. W. W. AVright, of Minnesota, discovered tlieni, and brought to Fin-t Laramie two leg bones, nearly complete, each over 30 inches long, and a fenuu-. When we passed there on our return, Cajjtain Simpson caused some excavations to be made at the same spot, and we obtained a large shoidder-blade, some vertebrae, ribs, fragments of the ivory of a large tusk, &c. Unfortunatel}^ the bones are in a friable condition, or else probably a large portion of the skeleton could have been secured. Although their state of preservation differs from that of the remains of the smaller animals, which are silicified, the former are apparenth- of the same age, or rather slightly older. The fossiliferous strata are among the lowest of this series. The next outcrops which I observed on the river present a different character. If we compare again the above-mentioned section of Dr. Ilayden with the forma- tion Avhich we have just described, we find that, although they are not exactly alike, still they show a marked resemblance. The strata in the lower portion of Scott's Bluffs eon-espond to his turtle and Oreodon beds, B; the next higher one to his C, with the difference, that we find the calcareous matter more concentrated in a few beds; and I) is represented by the upper portion of the Chimney Rock section. Dr. Ilayden esti- mated the thickness of B, C, and I) at 480 to 580 feet. On Platte River the thickness of this foniiation is much greater, but then we may have there his bed K, which is between 180 and 200 feet thick, replaced by more finely-grained deposits. If that is not the case, then F must be wanting on the Platte, while farther southwest, on Pole Creek, it is again considerably developed. Dr. Hayden's extensive collections have led to the conclusion that all these beds are pi-obably of I\Iiocene-Tertiary age, and the stratigraphical evidence, which alone I can adduce, does not conflict with tliis opinion. FROM AISOVE SCOTT's liLrFFS TO Fo'lJT J.AR.VMIi;. Above Scott's Bhifis still lower strata gradually rise to the surface. l'li('\' present a decidedly difierent api)earance, but were only seen in scattered outcrops, mostlv of no great extent. They are made up of a series of variegated, green, gray, buff, whitisli, and reddi.sh argillaceous and arenaceous shales, alternating with santlstones, and .sonic few limestones; and their age must be the Lower Miocene or Upper Eocene. They are l)robably the .same formation which has been observed on Platte River, some distance above Fort Laramie, and may correspond to the Tilaiiotherhun bed. No. A of Dr. lla\ - den's section, which he jintvisionally considers as Miocene. Future investigation can 34 b u 266 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. only fimiish the elements from which the actual age of this fonnation can be deter- mined. The sandstones are partly similar to those in the upper part of the Chimne}' Rock section, compact or friable, partly more coarse-grained, in consequence of the vicinity of the mountains, which mv^st have existed, although in different profile, at the time of their fonnation.^ The few intercalations of limestone do not preserve a uniform char- acter. Some are highly compact and brittle, with an even or conchoidal fracture, and full of seams, and irregular secretions of agatized silex or opal ; others are subcrystal- Hne or granular; still others slaty. In an argillo-calcareoiis ledge in such limestones, 23 miles below Fort Laramie, I found some fossils, Flanorhis, DentaUiini (f), and impres- sions of long, narrow leaves, probably of some grass. Nearer to Fort Laramie I noticed prominent outcrops of a coarse, conglomeratic, brown drift sandstone, portions of which contain pieces as big as a hen's egg, and even larger. It overlies light buff, fiiiely-arenaceous shales, such as are so extensively devel- oped farther down the river, and is caj)ped by a liglit-gray, fine-grained sandstone. These are probably local deposits, and of more recent date than tjiose mentioned last. Captain Stansbury noticed considerable exposures of the same rock up Laramie River. At the junction of this river with the Platte, near Fort Laramie, the hills are madp lip of finely arenaceous sti-ata, light-gray, and partly white, from a large percentage of calcareous matter. Some of these are mvich like the white stratum in Scott's Bluffs and Chimney Rock; others are coarser calcareous or siliceous sandstones, containing concretions or irregular ledges of more compact sand-rock, like the upper members of the Cliimney Rock section, and they may perhaps be of the same age, viz., Miocene; but some miles above the fort, and wherever observed farther west, they left the impres- sion upon my mind that they must belong among the most recent Tertiary deposits, and are, perhaps, of the age of the Ash Hollow series, to which they there bear considerable resemblance, and which is probably Pliocene, or that they are partly even more recent. I did not see them capped by any other beds, but they everywhere hold the highest position, either on top of the hills or filling depressions in the older rocks, and are only modified by the latest erosions. At various points along the eastern foot of the mountains, south of the North Platte, lignites have been discovered, as I have been informed by several officers of the Army. Not having seen them myself, I cannot determine whether they form the con- tinuation of the extensive lignite deposits higher up on Platte River, which underlie the gray, green, &c., argillaceoiis shales and the sandstones described above; or, if they have been formed in a different basin; nor whether their age is the Cretaceous or the Tertiary. ECONOMICAL GEOLOGY. The character of the surface deposits everywhere reflects that of the substrata. As the formations of this district are prevailingly arenaceous, so are also the soils. As far as the "Bluff" formation extends at the eastern end of the section, the soils mostly contain all elements of fertility, but are rather too light and dry; and as the quan- tity of atmos2)heric i^recipitation also decreases westward, the limits of the arable dis- trict are reached very soon. Still, large areas are covered with a good and dense GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 2G7 •{•rowtli of various grasses, amonlily nutritious buffiUo-grass, BiuMoe (hu'ti/Ioidcs, and a sinuhvr one, Jioidclona oJit/onlacJiia, are particularly w-hborhood, and have subjected them to a few tests l^efore the blow-pipe. One of them is mainly sulphate of soda, free of carbonic acid and chlorine; another one contains in addition a little carbonate of soda and probably also of magnesia, but no chloride ; and a third one sulphate of soda, with a large percentage of carbonate of soda, and some little chloride of sodium, and is similar to the trona mentioned above, although from a ditferent locality. These salt-i)onds, with their concentrated brine, cause the death of large numbers of cattle, which prefer to drink this water because it is salt, and because they always like more to di-ink from standing pools than from swiftly-ninning streams. The effect is not sudden, but after the poison has staid some time in the body death follows after a few hours of sickness. The strong and fat are affected as well as the weak and lean. Citric acid and vinegar are said to be antidotes, and we can well account for their ben- eficial influence ; a dose of oil or bacon may likewise be successfuU}' administered. Coal. — We have seen that coal abounds along Platte River. It is inferior to the stone-coal of the Carboniferous formation, but partly, at least, it is a supei'ior brown coal and a very valuable fuel. In its appearance it is similar to stone-coal, of black color, and mostly great luster, Avhile others present a dull black surface. The streak and powder are dark brown, which is also the color of weathered pieces. When fresh it splits into cuboid fragments, but after being exposed for some time to the atmos- phere it becomes laminated. I have not made any tests of the Deer Creek coal, but on a former occasion I have analyzed a coal of the same formation from the Upper Platte River, which closely resembles it (see Lieutenant Bryan's report of 1856), and found in it, by distillation, with slowly increased heat — 45.5 per cent, of fixed carbon ; 5.0 per cent, of ashes, partly g\-]5sum ; 49.5 per cent, of volatile substance and water. The coal which I have examined was obtained near the outcrop, and, therefore, not quite fresh. In the interior of the stratum it may be more bituminous. It burned with a long flame, retaiiied its .shape in coking, and did not cake at all ; on the con- trary it s])lit in every direction. The coke was hard and Ijrittle, dark gray, with a metallic luster ; it would not withstand nuich pressure, nor well endure transportation without much loss by slacking. The heating power of such coal is less than that of the stone-coal of the Carboniferous formation, and in weak ti'aveling forges this coal fx'om the outcrops frequently does not afford a good welding heat, but with airange- nients specially adapted to it, it can be made to produce the highest heat retpiired in tlie manufacture of iron. For high furnaces the coke would ])robably not have suf- ficient cohesion. It would seem to be less fit for locomotives than for stationary ma- chines, on account of the large grate-surface which it requires; but this obstacle could certainly be overcome. 286 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. SECTION IV. THE GREEN RIVER BASIN. LIMITS AND GENERAL CONFIGURATION AND FEATURES— NO IGNEOUS AND METAMORPHIC AND PROB- ABLY NO PALEOZOIC ROCKS— TERTIARY FORMATIONS: THE FORT BHIDGER SERIES— STRATI- GRAPHICAL POSITION— SECTION OF THE STRATA— THEIR ORGANIC REMAINS AND EXTENT— THEIR FRESH-WATER CHARACTER AND AGE— THE ROCKS EAST OF GREEN RIVER— THE ESTU- ARY F0R4IATI0N ON BEAR RIVER— OTHER TERTIARY DEPOSITS— CRETACEOUS, JURASSIC, AND TRIASSIC FORMATIONS: IN THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY— ON SULPHUR CREEK— ANALOGOUS STRATA AT THE MOUTH JUDITH RIVER IN NEBRASKA— ON BEjVR RIVER AND MUDDY CREEK— AT THE NEEDLES— ON WHITE-CLAY CREEK— ON ECHO CREEK— ON WEBER RIVER AND ITS EAST FORK- JURASSIC FORMATION ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE UINTAH MOUNTAINS, ON POTTS'S CREEK AND DUCHESNE FORK— COAL IN SAN PETE VALLEY AND NEAR LITTLE SALT LAKE— THE RED SALT AND GYPSUM FORMATION OF PROBABLY TRIASSIC AGE— ECONOMICAL GEOLOGY— AGRICULTURE — BUILDING MATERIAL — COAL — PETROLEUM — MINERAL SPRINGS — METALLIC ORES— SALTS. In this section I have comprised the country from the dividing ridge between the Atlantic and Pacific waters, to the eastern limits of the so-called Great Basin. On our line of exploration, it extends from the South Pass to the geological axis of the Wah- satch range of mountains, which passes near Weber River, a short distance beyond the hydi-ographical axis of that range. It includes the southeastern extremity of Oregon, and the northeastern portion of Utah. I have called it the Green River Basin, on account of the marked basin-shaped configuration of its surface near our route, with the same recent Tertiary strata at its lowest central point on Green River, which gradually nse toward both extremities and crown the dividing ridges, at the South Pass and in the Wahsatch Mountains. Its eastern poition, fi-om the South Pass to Green River, and even beyond, presents the character of extensive plains, scarcely internipted by slight rises of the ground, while the western part embraces the eastern portion of the Wahsatch Mountains, the broadest and mo.st diversified mountain-chain which we have passed on our route across the continent. There the lower formations rise to the surface; the streams have cut out deep valleys and even grand rocky canons, and subterranean forces have manifested themselves in numerous upheavals and great dislocations of the strata, which are frequently tilted at an angle of 90° and distui-bed in every direction. The eastern portion of the district is a bairen waste, rendered so by the prevail- ing arenaceous character of the formations, the shallowness of the soil in many places, where horizontal strata of limestone and sandstone extend over considerable distances near the surface, and the large quantity of saline efflorescences from the rocks, together with the cliuiatical featui-es of the country; and it would be nearly impass- able if it was not for the numerous creeks and rivers which come down from the sur- rounding high mountains, the Wind River Mountains, the Wahsatch Mountains, the Uintah Mountains, &c., and which along their banks have seams of meadow-land, furnishing subsistence to the animals and relief to the eye tu-ed from the endless dusty sage-barrens and sand-hills. When we approach, however, the foot of the western mountains, we perceive a great change in the vegetation. There are green valleys, diversified with gi-oves of timber, and the mountain-sides and uplands are, besides tlie wild sage (Artemisia), thickly covered with nutritious fodder-grasses, and partly stud- GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 287 ded with cedar and pine. Still hig-lier up, above the region of the grasses, forests of aspen and pine extend to the loftiest summits, to the region of nearly perpetual snow, greatly enhancing the beauty of the landscape. In this district we have not found any igneous rocks, although the violent local upheavals indicate their close proximity at various points, and they are prominently develojDcd at the eastern and western borders of tlie section, nor have we observed any metamorphic and paleozoic strata. TERTIARY FORMATIONS. We have- observed several formations which we refer to the Tertiary period. Most pi'ominently developed is THE FORT BRIDGER SERIES, to which we give that name because Fort Bridger is in the center of the region where it is most characteristically developed and best exposed. This series extends from the South Pass to the divide between Bear and Weber Rivers, thus occupying the gi-eatest portion of this section. Although it consists of several subdivisions, well distin- guished by the lithological character of the strata, these are all confoi-mable to each other, and unconformable to the older formations. They are the most recent for- mations in this section, and we have not found them anywhere disturbed locally by upheavals, but wherever they have been noticed, they exhibit a nearly horizontal posi- tion, or rather a slight dip off the suiTounding mountains toward the center of the basin. They might, therefore, be supposed to have been deposited after the country had attained its present configuration, but other observations show that this cannot be the case. While they occupy the divides in the eastern ranges -of the Wahsatch Mountains and in the South Pass, seams of carbonaceous matter and numerous impressions of plants. Ferns, JEquisetuni, &c., which can only have grown on swampy land or in very shallow water,, were found many hundred feet lower down in their continuation. Along the valley of Bear River an actual break or f;xult may be observed. It is evident, therefore, that during and after their fonnation they have undergone dislocations, not however connected with local outbui-sts of eruptive masses, and, undoubtedly, coinciding with the great conti- nental upheaval at the close of the Tertiary period. This position of the strata proves that the central and western portion of the continent has not only been raised as a whole solid body, but that the mountain chains, which must have existed as such long before that epoch, have, at the same time, been elevated more than the intervening covmtry. I compare it with the forming of a bubble. The subterranean forces gradu- ally swelled the central part of the continent several thousand feet; the thinner portion of the surface, corresponding to the lowest points far away from the mountains, seems to have yielded most, and to have been raised high as the pressure began. Then those deposits must have been formed. When the pressure again subsided, finding, perhaps, vent in outbursts of igneous masses, and the elevation of mountain ranges at distant points, the bubble colljipsed ; the mountains, Avith their gi-anitic centre and base, form- ing immense solid bodies, retained the position which they had assimied, while the 288 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. thinner poilions of the sohd cnist yielded more, and resumed the lower position which they still occupy. This formation, as developed about Fort Bridger, presents the following section in descending order : 1. Arenaceous and argillaceous .shales, slates, and slialy sandstones of gTeen color, with intersti-atifications and concretions of coarser gray and green sandstone, which, at some points, fonn regulai- round bodies like cannon-balls. The lower portion con- tains, also, slaty sandstones and calcareous slates, and thin seams of an oolitic, fetid limestone, foiTaing a transition to the middle portion. The thickness amounts at least to from 200 to 300 feet. 2. Limestones and argillaceous shales, also arenaceous shales, and' areno-calcare- ous slates. The white color prevails. The limestones are partly oolitic, partly sub- crystalline, with conchoidal or splintery fracture, partly uncrystalline, earthy, or chalky, also siliceous, arenaceous, and argillaceous ; and many of them are fetid on account of the large amount of organic remains which they contain. Over 100 feet 3. Light colored, mostly white, rather fine-grained sandstones, in thick beds, regularly alternating with mostly light red arenaceous and slightly argillaceous shales, and soft shaly sandstones. Over 200 feet, and perhaps considerably more. These strata may, possibly, be older than Tertiary(?). The strata No. 1 are peculiaiily apt to form prominent bluffs and table-hills, many of ^^'llich are known as conspicuous landmarks. Generally one of the harder beds of sandstone forms the nearly horizontal top, while in the bare, precipitous sides the shales prevail. These shales are frequently covered with efflorescences of salts. On our road they were most characteristically developed along Black's Fork ; they also form the bluffs near Green River, and the upper part of the bluffs around Fort Bridgei'. They gradually change into Xo. 2, and while the upper portion appears to contain only few organic remains, the beds of transition and No. 2 are loaded with them. On •the banks of Green River I observed, in the fetid oolitic limestone, and the green slates of these beds of transition, remains of fishes, not distinct enough for identifica- tion of the species, and obscure impressions of plants ; also, crystals of gypsimi, and efflorescences of a salt, which proved to be a mixture of sulphate of magnesia and sulphate of soda, while other salts of this vicinity are pure sulphate of magnesia. In the same horizon, near the mouth of Harris's Fork, I observed some gray laminated slates, full of impressions of plants, mostly ferns, and, close by, brown carbonaceous shales, which might, in their continuation, fonn beds of lignite. The slates, becoming siliceous, form gray, brown, and black compact rocks, with numerous marks of Equisetum, &c., and contain seams of fibrose gypsum. A few feet below them, between layers of green shales, there is a bed of white oolitic fetid limestone, nearly altogether composed of fossils, \\7. : 2 species of Melania, 2 of Lymnea, Unio, Planorhis, &c., a description of which will be found in Mr. Meek's report. The same limestone occurs in the bluff southwest of Fort Bridger (Moore's bluff), and in oiir collection we have specimens of it fi-om a point 15 or 20 miles southeast of Fort Bridger, at the foot of the Uintah Mountains. Some of the limestones of No. 2, in the quarry near Fort Bridger, contain numerous traces of organic remains, teeth and scales of fishes, &c. GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 289 A piece of a fossil leg-bone, about one inch in diameter, which must, therefore, have belonged to an animal of considerable size, was found by a member of the party at the fpot of a bluff far south of the road, at the base of the Uintah Mountains. From its green color it is evident that it comes from No. 1, or the beds of transition to No. 2. I was, at the time, unluckily absent on a reconnaissance with Captain Simpson, and was thus prevented from following- up this trace, which might have led to the dis- covery of another of those vast bunal-grounds of pre-Adamitic mammalian life, which have made the names of Montmartre and Nebraska famous throughout the scientific world. On a head branch of Henry's Fork, just beyond the southeast corner of the military reservation of Fort Bridger, some 20 miles from that post, a limestone occurs with a perfectly even conchoidal fracture, and of whitish color, with siliceous secre- tions, and full of finely preserved Planorbis. Although I have not examined that locality, I have no doubt that it is on a parallel with No. 2 of the above section. Along the road No. 2 forms the lower part of the hills near Fort Bridger. As the strata rise toward southwest, it soon attains the height of the plateau over which the road leads westward. It caps the bi'eaks of Muddy Creek, o!i Captain Simpson's new road to the Salt Lake Valley, as well as on the old road by Echo Canon. On the latter it was found a few miles farther on near the crest of high hills, and some strata at the top of the dividing ridge between Yellow Creek and Echo Creek seem to belong to that series. No. 3 is best exposed in the more, elevated western portion of the district. It forms the lower part of the blulfs along Muddy Creek ; on the new road, it caps the dividing ridge toward Sulphur Creek, is then interrupted by older upheaved strata, but was found again on the western bank of Beai* River, and on the top and on both sides of the dividing ridge toward White Clay Creek. On the old road it also forms the divide toward Bear River, at the Quaking-Aspen ridge, is then interrupted by tilted older formations, extends again from Bear River to the Needles, near Yellow Creek, and beyond forms part of the divide toward Echo Creek, and may extend some distance down that creek. On the western branch of Bear River these strata are found far up and down the stream, extending at least to the mouth of Yellow Creek. All the fossils in our collection from these rocks are fresh-water forms. In my pre- liminary report, made at Camp Floyd in December, 1858, 1 had spoken of the Tertiary formation of Green River as marine. I had done this, before the fossils had been examined, upon the statement of Professor Hall, in Captain Stansbury's report, "that from the South Pass to Fort Bridger the collections are all of marine Tertiary age," which, if taken in connection with the remark of Captain Stansbury himself, that on Ham's Fork very perfect shells were collected, can scarcely be referred to any other formation than that in question. Moreover, some fossils Avhich the same author had figured in Colonel Fremont's report, and described as probably marine shells, closely resemble some of this series, although we now think that they rather represent the estuary deposits described below. The examination of the fossil remains has not furnished proofs from which to decide iipon the subdivision of the Tertiary period to which those strata belong ; but 37 BU 290 EXPLORATIONS AGKOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. from their general character, compared with those further east, we are inchned to con- sider them as fonued in the middle of the Tei'tiary epoch. No. 1 may con-espond to the green, shaly series overlying the Lignite formation on Platte River above Fort Lai-amie, but they may just as well be altogether different, and deposited in separate basins. At another point of this district we have found beds characterized by their fossils, according to Mr. Meek, as estuary and Eocene Tertiary, which are tilted and appear to be unconformable to these, therefore, more recent strata. From the sandstone series. No. 3, no fossils have been obtained. As nearly all the older formations on the eastern slope of the Wahsatch Mountains, from the deti'itus of which they must have been formed, are prevailingly arenaceous, we cannot find it strange that they should lithologically resemble portions of them and still be more modern. Wherever observed they are confoiTnable to Nos. 1 and 2, and unconfoiTnable to the older rocks. On the Quaking-Aspen ridge they cap unconformably the strongly tilted coal-bearing- strata, and on Bear River, near the mouth of Sulphur Creek, they are nearly horizontal, like everywhei-e else, while close by the estuary strata are strongly tilted. Although they present the general character of a somewhat older formation, this close connection with the Fort, Bridger strata seems to indicate that they belong to the same geological horizon, and are only little older, perhaps Eocene. How- ever, although they differ lithologically from the sandstones in the upper pait of the Creta- ceous Lignite formation, on the Upper North Platte River, near Bryan's Pass, they may possibly be coeval with them ; that is. Upper Cretaceous. The greenish, shaly sandstones, which appear to cap them there (see Lieutenant Bryan's expedition, 1856), may correspond to the green series No. 1 (F). We cannot determine whether they are of marine or fresh- water origin. From Green River eastward, the lithological character of the formation changes somewhat, although it apparently forms the continuation of the Fort Bridger sti-ata. The prominent table-hills, near the South Pass, must be composed of the equivalents of No. 1. On the summit, and especially on the western slopes of the pass, above Pacific Springs, strata crop out, which I consider as the continuation of No. 2, but which contain a great deal more arenaceous material besides the lime, and perhaps, in consequence thereof, attain a greater thickness. They form a series of white arenace- ous limestones and calcareous sandstones, with interstratifications of loosely cemented •arenaceous shales and fine sand. Some of the harder ledges are compact siliceous limestones with oolitic portions, like those further west ; but they are mostly a mixture of sand and carbonate of lime, and closely resemble some of the strata of the Ash Hol- low series. (Section II.) Red and green and brown coarse shaly sandstones, below the Pacific Springs, and at several points further on, appear to be a local development of the formation, near the foot of the higher mountains. Along Big Sandy I noticed arenaceous and some argillaceous shales, and lower down, some 20 miles from Green River, compact sandstones overlying fine-grained shaly sandstones of white, yellowish, and brown colors. These strata probably form the continuation of No. 3, bvit present a different appearance, and resemble much more the rocks overlying the Lignite formation on the upper course of North Platte River, east of Bryan's Pass, which there reaches beyond the dividing ridge into the Green River Valley. GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 291 Between the South Pass and Green River a great deal of fossil wood was observed strewn over the surface, all silicified, and some of it changed into transparent agate. It evidently comes out of this formation, probably from No. 3, and Captain Stansbury, who followed a road some miles distant from ovirs, actually observed some fossil trees imbedded in such sandstones, the trunks of which measured nearly 2 feet in diameter. Near there, we find stated in that report, some imperfect specimens of Naittilus were collected, which would indicate a marine formation, if we may not presume that these fossils either came from a drifted bowlder, or from a limestone coiresponding to om- No. 2, in wliich large Planorhis are found, which, when badly preserved, may readily be mistaken for Nautih(s. THE ESTUARY FOKMATION ON BEAR RIVER. On Bear River, near the mouth of Sulphur Creek, I observed light-colored shaly slates, gray argillaceous shales, and some strata of sandstone and limestone. The lat- ter is partly light yellowish, coarse-textured, wholly composed of fossils, partly dark- gray slaty, also full of shells, and quite fetid. The outcrop is much covered over by detritus. These strata are considerably -tilted ; at one jjoint they trend from northeast to • southwest, and dip under a high angle to southeast. West of them we find the strata of the loAver series of Fort Bridger, with only a slight dip; east of them, a suc- cession of sandstones, to be described hereafter, also strongly disturbed, nearly verti- cal ; but the disturbed condition and imperfect exposure of the rocks prevented me from tracing the exact relations between those different formations. The fossils collected from these beds belong to the genera Unto, Corhula, Melania^ Paludina, and 3Ielmnpus. They characterize the formation as a brackish-water or estuar}^ deposit, Avithoiit any strictly marine forms. Mr. Meek, to whose report I refer for a more detailed enumeration and description of the fossils, among which there are several new ones, considers these strata as decidedly Eocene-Tertiary. The similarity of their organic remains, and their connection with the sandstone series east of them, vni\\ Ostrea gJahra and lignites, indicate that we have here beds formed under similar circumstances with those near the mouth of Judith River, in Nebraska, of which Dr. Hayden has given an account, under the direction of Lieutenant Warren, Topogi-aphi- cal Engineers. These estuary beds are undoubtedly older than the Fort Bridger series, because the beds No. 3 overlie, unconformably, the upheaved mountains of which they form part, on the divide on the old road east of Sulplrar Creek; and I hesitate to yield to the paleontological deductions of Mr. Meek in regard to the Tertiary age of this formation. Although, as I have stated, its stratigraphical position is not quite plain at the point where I have observed it, it appears to be closely allied to the sandstone series with Inoceramus, Ostrea (/lahra, and coal, which is Cretaceous, most probably Lower Cretaceous, and I am inclined to consider it as an estuary local development in that Cretaceous series. In regard to the analogous deposits of the Judith River, the reader will recollect similar doubts Avere expressed by Dr. Hayden and Professor Leidy in various communications to the Academy of Philadelphia. Estuary deposits are naturally scarce in all fonnations, but we have no reason to doubt the possibility 292 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. of their existence at any horizon ; and oni* knowledge of their fossil fauna is so very limited and so fnll of startling possibilities, that I am inclined to regard these paleon- tolog-ical deductions as less reliable, especially where few and new species are con- cerned, because the precedents are few. I have noticed the formation only at a single locality. In Colonel Fremonts' report, however, Professor Hall describes a fossil from Uintah River, near latitude 41°, longitude 111°, as Centhmm tenerinn, which is by Mr. Meek considered as identical Avith a Melania from these estuary beds, and a Tiirho and Naiku (?) from a point on Muddy Creek, below the crossing of the Salt Lake City road, apparently identical with Paludmas from Bear River, while the description of the lithological character of some of the strata of these localities rather corresponds to No. 2 of the Fort Bridger series. Besides the two formations which have just been described, we have observed some local deposits overlying, unconformably, the older rocks, which, on that account, Ave provisionally refer to the Tertiary period. On Porter's Creek, the main southern fork of White Clay Creek, and less prominent on the latter stream, we find siliceous conglomerates apparently filling depressions in strata which are probably of Cretaceous age. They are composed of hard sand rock and jiebbles of quartz, all rounded, vary- ing in size generally between a hen's egg" and a man's head, and imbedded in little sandy matrix, AA'hich, although easily jaelding to main force, Avell resists destruction b}- atmospheric ag-encies. These conglomerates, therefore, form remarkable turreted bluff's and pinnacles. Their color is mostly gray. Some are brownish or reddish. They nuist not be confounded Avith the conglomerates interstratified in that older series of rocks, Avhich haA^e a similar appearance, but generally a more calcareous matrix. Occasionally they include more sandy portions irregularly interspersed, and on White Clay Creek I noticed them underlaid by a foAv strata of sandstone and shale, both together capping, unconformaljlv, the older sandstones. No fossils liaA^e been found in connection with them. Covering the Tertiary formation, I noticed frequentl}^ especially on the edge of high ridges, bowlders of siliceous I'ocks, highly-altered sandstones, and the like, some of which contained traces of fossils which appear to be Carboniferous forms. They probably originate from the high mountains in the western part of the Wahsatch range. CRETACEOUS, JURASSIC, AND .TRIASSIC FORMATIONS. I have already mentioned the possibility of the Upper Cretaceous age of No. 3 of the Fort Bridger series, and the probably Cretaceous age of the foraaation on Bear River. Along our route no sti-ata are exposed Avhich lithologically correspond to the Nos. II and III of the Cretaceous rocks of Nebraska; Imt fai-ther south, at Bryan's Pass, I had previously observed them on the dividing ridge, beyond Avhich they probably extend westward into the Green RiA^er country, together with the Cretaceous Lignite formation overlying them in that vicinity, and to Avhicli the coal strata appear to belong which Captain Stansbury observed at various localities on Bitter Creek. Still lower doAvn on Green River the Cretaceous formation apj)ears to be largely developed. In the eastern part of the Wahsatch Mountains the Upper Cretaceous beds are GEOLOGICAL REPOET. 293 not represented, except possibly by No. 3 (I). Sandstone formations prevail there entirely, consisting of more or less comj^act sandstones, some of which are con- glomeratic, and of arenaceous and argillaceous shales, with only a few strata of lime- stones. Their thickness amounts to many hundreds, perhaps thousands, of feet, and their color is alternately white and red. Tliese strata represent different epochs, the Tertiary, Cretaceous, Jiu-assic, and Triassic. Still, their lithological character is so uniform throughout, their stratification so much distni-bed, and organic remains were obtained at so few points only, that I have not been able to di"aw distinct limits between them. Those of the sandstones which appear to belong to the Tertiary forniation, and are distinguished from the others by their unconformable stratification, have been described above as No. 3 of the Fort Bridger series. Underlying these latter, and in close contact with the estuary beds near the junction of Sulphur Creek with Bear River, we find along Suljjhur Creek a consid- erable succession of white sandstones, interstratified with red and gray slaty sand- stones and arenaceous and argillaceous shales. Some of these contain conglomeratic seams. They trend from northeast to southwest, and are strongly, some of them even vertically, tilted. A short distance below the crossing of the creek, on the old road, ajieavy bed of reddish siliceous conglomerate forms a rugged outcrop over the crest of the hills. Close by, probably overlying it and dipping at a very high angle to southeast, I observed a yellow sandstone with Inocemmus similar to /. ptohhmaticus. A few yards farther east, above the ci-ossing, ])rominent strata of Avhite, rather fine- grained, soft sandstone, also varying only a few degrees from the vertical to southeast, contain large numbers of Osfrea f/lahra, another species of Ostrca, and an Anomia, which, by their abundance, make the rock fetid. It is immediately succeeded by coal, the nearest stratum of which is several feet thick, while at least one more follows within a few feet of the first, and is separated from it only by some gray argillaceous shales, but covered over with detritus, and not well exposed. The shales beyond it attain a considerable thickness. Another iipheaval, northeast from there, then inter- rupts the regular succession of the strata, which seem to swing round, and to re-appear luglier up the ci-eek with reversed dip, trending from south-southwest to north-north- east, and dipping to north-northwest. At least I observed there a similar sandstone with numerous Ostrea, and although I did not see the coal, the supposed place of which, above the sandstone, is occupied by the bed of the creek, I found an indication of it in a hepatic spring, the like of which issues near the first coal. They apparently originate fi-om pyrites in these coal-beds. A spring of petrolemu also issues in the continuation of these strata a mile southwest of the crossing of Sulphur Creek, which latter has derived its name from those springs of sulphureous water. The coal and the sandstone with the Osfrea are unquestionably members of the same fonnation, and the dou1)t in regard to that implied in a passage of Mr. Meek's report, would never have been expressed if the writer had examined that locality him- self, and also the analogous one on White Clay Creek, which leaves no room for ques- tioning the position of the coal in the middle of the sandstone series. The paleontological e^adence seems to point to the Lower Cretaceous (or even Ju- rassic) age of this formation, and by general considerations I am, likewise, led to con- 294 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. sider it as such. It may be an equivalent of those strata which Dr. Hayden, on Lieu- tenant Wan-en's expedition, observed at the mouth of Judith River (see Proceedings of the Academy of Philadelphia, May, 1857), which are likewise in close connection with an estuary formation, but appear to be developed on a much smaller scale. They are also strongly tilted, contain coal and Ostrea glabra besides other fossils, and were regarded by Dr. Hayden as probably on a parallel with the lowest portion of No. 1 of his section of the Cretaceous rocks of Nebraska, though he suspected from the presence of a Hettang'ta that they might be older. From the crossing of Sulphur Creek these strata, forming a i-idge in the direction of their trend, extend southwest to the East Fork of Bear River, striking it about 1.5 miles below Captain Simpson's road, where the coal must again crop out. They also continue in the opposite direction, forming considerable moimtains north of Sulphur Creek, when their trend changes more to north and finally to north-northwest, and they strike Bear River a second time near the mouth of Yellow Creek. In conse- quence of another disturbance, they crop out again east fi"om there on Muddy Creek below the crossing of the Salt Lake road, where Colonel Fremont found the coal. Captain Simpson discovered it also on White Clay Creek, below the mouth of Porter's Fork, where I observed again, in coimection with it, heavy beds of white sandstone with the same Ostrea. The latter occur likemse on Weber River, about 1.5 miles above the mouth of White Clay Creek, and again 1 mile below the point where the road, tm-ning westward, leaves Weber River; but I did not find there any coal with them. Strata of a similar character are exposed at numerous other points. Nine miles Avest of Bear River they foiTu the Needles, on Yellow Creek, comjjosed of strongly- tilted white and gray, compact, siliceous sandstones, which are partly fine-grained, pai-tly coarse-grit stones, and conglomeratic, and intersti-atified with mosth* reddish slialy strata, arenaceous shales, and shaly sandstones. Most prominent there, is a heavy mass of light-colored conglomerate, comjjosed of rounded siHceous pebbles of the size of hen's and pigeon's eggs with only a few larger ones, thickly disseminated, together Avith gravel, in a mortar-like matrix. It forms the rugged crest of the hills from which they have receiA'ed their name. This elevation trends toward the head of White Cla}' Creek, on which the same rocks were observed near the iipper forks, also standing on the edge and partly even tilted beyond the vertical. The dip of the strata along that creek is not unifonn, and the slopes are partly covered, so that I was pre- vented from obtaining a section; but as the dip generally varies between southwest and west we may presume that we come to higher strata the farther we descend the creek, and that those at the upper fork and at the Needles probably correspond to those on the east fork of Weber River near the point where I obtained Jurassic fossils. Some miles below the upper forks, in high mountains on the south side of the creek, yelloAvish conglomeratic sand.stones crop out, also one of a dull reddish color, strongly dipping to west- southwest, and lower down a considerable thickness of alternations of impure whitish sandstones and light-colored argillaceous shales, conformable to the former and likewise containing conglomeratic seams. Near the mouth of Porter's Fork we reach the coal-bearing sandstone mentioned above, and then white sandstones, al- ternating Avith red arenaceous slate and red shales. At the lower end of the canon, the GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 295 red color predominates; but thence down I noticed again white sandstones, interstrat- ified with gray shales, similar to those above the coal, and perhaps the same strata, because there has been a disturbance and a change of the dip, which is there generally toward west or northwest. Near the mouth of the creek these strata are capped by heavy beds of white sandstone \vith conglomeratic portions. Several tliick beds of conglomerates occur in this district, though mostly there are only single seams of pebbles within the beds of else rather fine-grained sandstones, not foi-ming separate strata, which indicates that changes in the force of the currents must have taken place while the single beds were deposited. The frequent occurrence of conglomeratic masses proves, besides, that a shore-line cannot have passed far from the present Wahsatch Mountains, which existed probably before the Jurassic and Cre- taceous era, although not in their present outlines. This is rendered still more likely by the absence of Jurassic and Cretaceous strata west of these mountains, as will appear from the following section V. From the mouth of White Clay Creek to Echo Creek, a distance of 5 miles, the same fomiation continues, with confomiable stratification and a slight dip to west and northwest, so that we advance to higher strata. Part of these are brick-red, probably foiTning the continuation of the red beds at the lower end of the White Clay Creek canon. Near the mouth of Echo Canon purple conglomerates are largely developed, and nearly horizontal. They form for some miles high vertical tun-eted bluffs on the north side of the cailon, wdiile the south side generally presents steep but covered slopes, with only few exposm-es of rocks, which dip strongly to west-northwest. I was doubtful whether the red conglomerates were conformable; in some places they seem to be so, in others not; but I rather think that they are a local later deposit. The valley is evidently one of erosion, and not one of eruption, with anticlinal strata, as has been stated by others. Some miles farther up, white, yellowish, and dull- reddish, partly conglomeratic, and mostly purer siliceous sandstones form both sides of the canon, probably corresponding to the lower series, which is exposed also on the upper part of ^liite Clay Creek. Their dip is still to west-northwest, but moderate, although variable. Still higher up we find the divide capped by the sandstones. No. 3. On Weber River, above the mouth of White Clay Creek, the same fonnation continues; but the uniformity of the stratification is inteiTupted in consequence of the proximity of the igneous rocks, wliich form the limits of this section, and at several' points come to the water's edge. Within a short distance I observed the strata dip- ping to north, west, east, and northwest. From the mouth of Silver Creek to Kamas Prauie the dip is uniformly strong to northwest, and we gradually come again to lower strata, although the ridge of dioritic poiphyries west of the river runs nearly north and south. This would rather indicate the pre-existence of the igneous rocks; still, other observations show conclusively that the eruption of part of them, at least, dates after the deposition of the sandstones, and at a comparatively recent period, or else w^e would not find their tufas, in apparently horizontal position, filling portions of the liver valleys which are eroded in these stratified rocks. Near the point where the road to the Timpanogos leaves the valley of Weber 296 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. River, I observed a layer of an impure limestone, with imperfect indications of fossils, but I did not succeed in finding a single specimen from which to identify the fonna- tion. Else, the character of the strata is unchanged. In the northeast corner of Kamas Prairie, at the mouth of the canon of the East Fork of Weber River, I noticed a gray, very compact, calcareous rock, and up that stream more light-red and gra}^ compact siliceoiis sandstones, somewhat altered by metamorphic action, and some shaly strata. The canon follows for a long distance, although not throughout, the trend of the strata, the dip of which varies between north and west-northwest, and is partly very strong, 60° and 70°. Some miles up that stream I found pieces of a gray altered limestone, evidently from an outcrop close by, with numerous ti'aces of organic remains. Although I could only obtain some imper- fect Pccteu, Ostrea, and Penfacrinns, these, taken together with all the other circum- st.inces, leave scarcely room to doubt the Jurassic age of the formation. (See Mr. Meek's report.) The high moimtains between this point and the head of White Clay Creek, which I crossed with Captain Simpson and a small reconnoitering j^arty, are covered all over with soil, timber, and undergrowth, and therefore afford few data to the geologist. A few red escarpments were observed at a distance near the summits of the Uintah Mount- ains, of which more will be said below. On the summit of the trail, between Porter's Fork and the East Fork of Weber Ri\'er, I obser^•ed some large masses of white granite, apparently not far out of place. On another i-econnaissance with Captain Simpson, in the siunmer of 1859, from Round Pi'airie, on the..Timpanogos, to the Uintah River, I obtained a view of the con- tinuation of the Weber River formations south of the Uintah Mountains, where they appear to be a little differently developed, with less conglomeratic portions, although the close connection between the two is evident at the first glance. The axis of the Uintah Mountains bears from east to west at a right angle to the Wahsatch Mountains, and although they may have a center of ig-neous rocks, and owe their origin to their eruption, these do not appear prominently in the general oiitlines of the chain, and besides the few blocks of granite mentioned above, I have only noticed near our trail, at their junction with the Wahsatch Mountains, some of the same dioritic porphyries which form the ridge west of Weber River. From north and south stratified rocks cover their slopes, and lise toward the summits, where they form a crest remarkable for its horizontal outlines, Avith deep intervening chasms and apparently high vertical walls of mostly reddish color. Near the pass from the heads of Coal Creek, a tributary of Timpanogos River, to Potts' Creek, an affluent of Duchesne Fork of the Uintah River, the ridges are all strewn with pieces of white, highly altered, compact sand-rock, but the first stratum in place, just beyond the summit, is a siliceous conglomerate, followed by red sand- stones and conglomerates, and red arenaceous and argillaceous shales, several hundi-ed feet thick, but not well exposed. Near the summit I also obtained some imperfect fossils in a gray limestone, apparently in situ, which, however, could not be identified. These red strata are apparently the same which cap the Uintah Mountains farther east, and I have been doubtful whether they occupy a high or low position in the GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 297 series; in other words, whether they correspond to the Lower Jurassic or Triassic formations which appear to be considerably developed farther south, or to those much more recent strata which we have observed before in the canon of White Clay Creek, and on Weber River above I^lcho Creek. The observations in the field were not quite decisive on that point, and the presence of both formations may be accounted for with some degree of plausibility; but the weight of evidence is rather in favor of the more recent age of these rocks. Apparently, the same strata are prominent south from there, and at a much lower level, on the Red Fork of Uintah River, which from these has received its name. The following is an enumeration of the strata which were observed along Potts' Creek, in descending order, and, although necessarily incomplete as a section, it shows the general character of the formation : 1. Several hundred feet of mostly red sandstones and conglomerates, and red are- naceous and argillaceous shales, with perhaps some strata of limestones. Not well exposed. 2. White, hard sand-rock, only exposed in a short outcrop. 3. Dark red friable sandstone. 4. Some gray slate, mostly argillaceous. Farther down the creek the lower strata are better exposed, and we find: 5. A considerable thickness of mostly light reddish sandstones, but also white ones. G. White calcareous shales and slates, and some limestones, some of which are fine-grained with an even fractm-e, others of an oolitic structure. . They contain numer- ous traces of fossils. I obtained thei'e some joints of Fentacrinus, and fragments of Pecten and Ostrea, which indicate that this rock belongs to the Jurassic age. 7. Light reddish quartzose, not very hard sandstones, probabl} several hundred feet thick. In an interstratification of finer material I observed numerous Gasteropoda, but their generic characters were obliterated. 8. Strata of quartzose saiidstone, varying in color from white to red, and of differ- ent degrees of hardness, several hundred feet thick. At the junction of Potts' Creek and Duchesne Fork they form high precipitous bluffs, and are there mostl}^ white and exceedingly hard, and t-ome of them contain a large percentage of lime. These are the lowest strata observed on this river. Continuing down Duchesne Fork we change our course more to the south and southeast, in which direction the strata dip, and we pass them, therefore, in reversed order. I observed successively Nos. 8, 7, and 6. Then followed for several miles, partly corresponding to No. 5, and, perhaps, also to the higher numbers, more loose shaly strata of mostly white color, alter- nations of generally arenaceous shales, and shaly sandstones, with some more promi- nent strata of white sandstone, which series reminded me much of some rocks on White Clay Creek and Weber River, and are most probably the same. They are succeeded by a great thickness of white and brick-red sandstones, with much less shaly portions. Where the Spanish trail comes in, we find hea-sy beds of white soft quartzose sand- stone, with only thin intercalations of shales, some of which are red. The river here makes a bend to the east, parallel to the trend of these strata, which therefore con- 38 b u 298 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TEE GREAT J5ASIN OF UTAH. tinued for luauy miles along the stream, forming shelved rocky bluffs, some of which may be 300 feet high. For the last 10 miles to the mouth of Duchesne Fork the hills along the i"iver are low, and probably correspond to the lower portion of this white sandstone series. I have remarked aliove that Colonel Fremont obtained some fossils on Uintah River, some distance above Duchesne Fork, which apparently con-espond to the estu- ary beds of Bear River, or possibl}' to the No. 2 of the Fort Bridger senes. The coal has not been observed here; Init most likely it exists in the bluifs hidden by detritus, or else at a level not much diiferent from that of these strata. Beds of coal occur at various points farther south, in the Wahsatch Mountains and allied ranges. I have not had an opportunity to examine any of these localities, but from all the information which I have- been able to gather I have little doubt that their geological position corresponds to that of the White Clay Creek coal. On San Pete Creek, a tributary of Sevier River, which in its upper course runs from north to south in a longitudinal ^■alley of the Wahsatch range, several strata of coal have been discovered near the Mormon settlements of Manti and Ephraim, near latitude 39° 25', and are worked to a limited extent. Governor Brigham Young, in a letter dated 1855, and published in the Deseret News, states in regard to them: "The upper outcropping vein is 3 feet 4 inches thick, and rests upon a stratum of rock below which is another vein from 22 to 24 inches thick, below which is a vein of beautiful coal 5 feet thick;" and the following is an extract from an official rejjort of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Ruggles, Fifth Infantry, to Brig. Gen. A. S. Johnston, command- ing Department of Utah, of a tour of service in San Pete valley, 1859 : "About midway in the mountains bordering the valley on the west there are mines of bituminous coal of apparent considerable extent. The [>rincipal stratum is full 4 feet thick, and it crops out at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the valley, and it dips west-southwest at an angle of about 20°. There were five coal strata visible, and the series is sunnounted by a well-defined stratum of chalk about two feet thick." This latter rock resembles the chalky beds of the Upper Cretaceous rocks in Northeastern Kansas. It appears that this valley is situated similarly to that of Weber River, near the geological axis of the Wahsatch range, and the limits of the district belonging to the Great Basin. AVe are also credibly informed of the existence of a similar coal in the mountains east of Little Salt Lake and Cedar City; and sandstone formations, probably corre- sponding to those described above, occur at various localities along the road from Utah Lake to Virgin River. Red strata, with gypsum and rock-salt, have been observed at numeroiis })oints south from our line of survey in the Wahsatch Mountains and their southern continu- ation. I have not examined any of them, and the red color alone would by no means be a proof of their Triassic age, less so here than in other districts, because we have seen that red sandstones and arenaceous and argillaceous shales pervade all the forma- tions. But if we consider the large development of the Jurassic rocks, in connection with the remarks made in section III in regard to the great extent of the Triassic for- GEOI.OOICAL KEJ'OKT. 25)9 mation south and east, and their interstratifications of gyi^suni and saU, there is litthi room to doubt the Triassic ag-e of these beds, unless we should consider them as Lower Jurassic. Colonel Fremont, in his report of 1844, mentions that rock-salt is found some miles south of Uintah River. In Captain Gunnison's and Dr. Schiel's reports, red strata, with salt and gvpsum, are mentioned from the neighborhood of his trail over the Wahsatch Mountains. In the report of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Ruggles, it is stated that a stratum of rock-salt has been found in the mountains bordering San Pete Valley on the east, some 20 miles south of Manti, and that it is also represented to have been found in the mountains forming what is known as 8an Pete Canon, about 50 miles from the first locality, imbedded in reddish marly cla3^ Some specimens of it were secured for our collection by the kindness of General A. S. Johnston and Col- onel Crosman, Quartermaster-General's Department, United States Army. From a report of Assistant Surgeon Dr. Charles Brewer, United States Army, of a march from Cam]) Floyd to the Virgin River in 1859, we learn that beds of gypsum are found near the mouth of Salt Creek Canon, not far from the town of Nephi, and that red sandstones and shales were noticed at numerous })oints of the route. From all these data we may safely conclude that the formation which is now generally, and with much good reason, although without unquestionable proof, re- ferred to the Triassic era, is largely developed in the region of the Wahsatch range, south of our route. ECONOMICAL GEOLOOV. Agriculture. — I have s^xiken above of the desolate character of the Green River region. Still there are numerous points along tlie river and its tributaries, especially west of it, where cultivation would prove successful. A heavy growth of sage gen- erally indicates a fertile soil, deficient in humidity, and by irrigation this want can be supplied. The lower portion of the Green River Valley, near Brown's Hole, com- pares in altitude with the Salt Lake region, and the climate of the two does not appear to differ much. Higher up, toward the Wahsatch Mountains, we find more fertile valleys, like that of Black's Fork, near Fort Bridger, Fort Supply, where Mormons had settled some years ago, the head branches of Henry's Fork, and others, but their altitude above the ocean, being about 6,500 feet, is too great, and their climate, therefore, too cold. The growing season is very short, and the crops are frequently damaged by early snow-storms. Only such plants can be cultivated to advantage as require a short season for their development, and are generally adapted to a much more northern cli- mate ; and .even they may occasionally be destroyed by the frequently occurring night-frosts in the middle of summer. Settlements in this part of the country will, probably, have to rely upon supplies from outside, and cultivation will scarcely be cail-ied beyond stations put up for some special pui-pose other than agricultural. BaUdmg material. — Rock, lime, material for brick and adobes, and also timber, are plentiful throughout this district, or can be procured at a moderate cost. Wood, for bridge-building, might be rafted down Green River. Coal. — I have mentioned above that, according to Captain Stansbury, Topographi- 800 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASJN OF UTAH. cal Engineers, tliick beds of coal crop out sontli of our road, at various points on Bitter Creek, an eastern affluent of Green River, which are probably a continuation of the coal of North Platte River, which has been discussed in section III. The Sulphur Creek coal, when fresh, is perfectly black, and has the lu.^ter of stone-coal, but it has a brown sti-eak, and is only a superior brown coal of more recent age ; weathered pieces are brown, and look much like the coal from Deer Creek (section III); it appears, however, to be of better quahty. Captain Stansbury men- tions it, in his report of explorations in the valley of the Great Salt Lake, as a bitu- minous coal, pieces of which, although much weathered, burned in a camp-fire with a bright, clear flame. I had no opportiinity to obtain quite fi-esh pieces, as the outcrop was much covered up; but General A. S. Johnston, commanding Department of Utah, had it tried, and found it so useful for blacksmithing that he secm-ed the locality as a military reser^'ation. To judge from the weathered pieces, it is, however, inferior to the San Pete coal. It contains some sulphur and gypsum. It would be easy to get manv thousands of bushels of this valuable material in an open quan-y. The Muddy Creek coal is undoubtedly a continuation of the same beds, and the coal of White Clay Creek is, also, the same, or holds a similar position. The coal from San Pete Valley is the best I have seen west of the Mississippi River coal-basin ; but, as the pieces that I saw from there had been obtained by mining from the interior of the sti-atum, it cannot well be compared with the weathered pieces from Sulphur Creek. It is a bituminous, black coal, with a brown streak, and closely resembles bituminous stone-coal, and as it cokes somewhat it is well adapted to the same pm'poses. It contains some g}'psum ; otherwise no analysis has been made of our specimens. At Camp Floyd, it has been extensively used for blacksmithing, and the workmen informed me that it gives an excellent heat, but leaves much ashes, and is inferior to the bituminous coal of Pennsylvania. As this coal may be considered as occurring on the border of the Great Basin, more will be said of it in section V. If a railroad should be built across the continent in this latitude, the coal of the Wahsatch Mountains will obtain paramount importance. Petroleum. — The spring of petroleum, near the continuation of the Sulphur Creek coal-bed, one mile from that creek, has been mentioned above, and before by Captain vStansbury. He found, in an open country, several small, shallow depressions in the ground, filled with some rain-water, and oil and tar. The fresh oil is green ; by exposure it seems to be changed soon into tar of dark-brown color and aromatic taste. This tar, more hardened and somewhat mixed with soil, forms the bottom and sides of the spring- Seldom more than two or thi-ee gallons will accumulate, and I could scarcely succeed in filling one bottle with a spoon, because some people had taken it off a day or two previous- Emigrants and Mormons collect it as wagon-grease, and as a liniment for I'ruises, &c. By boring, I suppose, a considerable supply of the oil might be secm-ed. Mineral springs. — We only know of the small spiings, a few miles west of Muddy Creek, on the old Salt Lake City road. Their water contains some carbonic acid and some salts, and tastes not unpleasantly. It deposits some calcareous tuf;i, which, at one of the springs, is colored red by a little iron. GEOLOGICAL RErORT. 301 MefaUk ores were not observed, and the geological formations are such that it wonld be rather an exception to find any ores associated with them. Salts. — I have, above, mentioned beds of gypsum and rock-salt, in strata, of pi'obably Triassic age; but, as part of them appear to reach beyond the limits of this section, into section V, more will be said of them hereaftei-. Efflorescences of salts, on shales and slates, in the neighborhood of Green River, have also been mentioned in the foregoing. SECTION V. THE DISTRICT OF CENTRAL AND WESTERN UTAH (NOW WESTERN UTAH AND NEVADA). LIMITS AND GENERAL CONFIGURATION— THE IGNEOUS ROCKS, THEIR CLASSIFICATION .AND AGE— METAMORPHIC AND ALTERED ROCKS— THE STRATIFIED ROCKS— UPPER CARBONIFEfiOUS AND PERMIAN, LOWER CARBONIFEROUS, DEVONIAN, AND OLD RED, SILURIAN FORMATIONS— THE VALLEYS— THEIR LACUSTRINE ORIGIN— BENCHES AND WATER-MARKS— RIMS OF TUFA— THE DRAINAGE OF THE LAKES A CONSEQUENCE OF EVAPORATION— SPRINGS AND CREEKS— BRACK- ISH WATER— SUBTERRANEAN RESERVOIRS— HOT AND MINERAL SPRINGS— WARM SPRINGS IN ROUND PRAIRIE, IN KOBAH VALLEY, ON WALKER RIVER, &c.— IMPROVEMENTS IN THE SUPPLY OF WATER-ARTESIAN WELLS— TANKS— WELLS— SOIL AND VEGETATION— AGRICULTURE— MIN- ERAL WEALTH— GOLD, SILVER, LEAD, IRON-ORE, NATIVE SULPHUR, SALT, GYPSUM, SULPHATE OF SODA, SULPHATE OF MAGNESIA, NATIVE ALUM, MINERAL SPRINGS, STONE-COAL, TOPAZ- GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF THE SUCCESSIVE MOUNTAIN RANGES PROGRESSING FROM EAST TO WEST. On crossing the summit of the Wahsatch Mountains, coming from the east, a sec- tion of country is entered altogether different from that on the other side. Its pecu- liar aspect is pre-eminently derived from a change in the geological formations, and the physical features in general. It forms a part of the region which has been called "The Great Basin," because it has no drainage to the ocean, as all the streams origin- ating there are lost again within its limits, and which comprises all the country between the Wahsatch range to the east, the Sierra Nevada to the west, the divide of the waters of the Columbia to the north, and those of the great Colorado to the south and southeast. The name "Great Basin," however, gives a -nTong impression of its hypsometrical condition, for the profile of the country shows that its outskirts are less elevated than the central jjortion, which is a lofty upland, with numerous gigantic mountain ranges, equaling in height the Wahsatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, while in the south- ern portion the surrounding heights do not attain a considerable altitude. The sm*- face, moreover, is divided into many systems of drainage, disconnected with each other. This whole region, as far as it is known, seems to present similar features through- out, which are only modified by the varying- elevation of its sections. As other por- tions of it have been described before, I may confine mj^self to a few remarks in re- gard to its general features along our line of travel, between latitudes 39° and 41°, from longitude 111° 25', near Weber River, to longitude 119° 41', in Carson Valley. The whole must be regarded not as composed of separate mountain chains, but as one system, one great continental swell, the relief of which has been shaped by 302 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. numerous parallel fissures and corresjDonding mountainous upheavals, running nearly north and south. Of the latter, some consist of stratified rocks, others of stratified rocks with a nucleus of igneous rocks, and still others, altogether, or nearly so, of igneous rocks. Some of them extend continuously, with a considerable elevation, over many miles to unknown distances, others fall off, and are succeeded by others, which cannot be regarded as their immediate continuation, but are rather independent ranges of similar character. An examination of the eiTiptive masses leads to the conclusion that, although raised according to one system, the mountains cannot have been called into existence by one great violent effort, but that their formation has occupied a considerable period, • probably with intervals of comparative rest; also, that eruptive rocks, and conse- quently considerable in equalities of the surface, existed long before the parallel ranges were formed. In the single mountain chains the forces frequently did not exhibit themselves uni- foi-mly along their whole axis, but acted with locally more or less increased intensity^ thus foi-ming sporadic centers of elevation, from which spurs run out in various direc- tions across the valleys. Such sporadic upheavals are not confined to the principal ranerous rocks of the pitch- stone family, mostly filling veins or forming-, at least, other evidently later effusions. Their color is bi'own or black, with a resinous or semi-vitreous luster. They are gene- rally brittle, and contain water as an essential component; when heated they intumesce and smell fetid. Part of them contain crystallizations of feldspar, probably also zeolitic minerals. Various other rocks were foiind, more subordinate and confined to only a few localities, viz, basalt, phonolite, greenstone, pumice, obsidian, and others. They will be described in a subjoined enumeration of the single mountain ranges. Of these rocks, the basaltic, at least if they really should be such, belong to a group entirely distinct from those mentioned before. Such rocks, which we are used to consider as the products of acting volcanoes — pumice and scoria, have also been formed long before the present era. According- to Mr. Blake, pumice, scoria, and charcoal occur imbedded in the Miocene Tertiary strata of California. Therefore their presence cannot be regarded as a conclusive evidence of recent volcanic action, though such may in reality have taken place. The apparently complete want of distinct limits between these groups of rocks, essentially differing in their extreme types, and their merging by intei-mediate forms, by steps more gradual than are frequently found with rocks of the same group and locality, has also been observed by Mr. Th. Antisell, in the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Ranges (Pacific Railroad Report, vol. vii). It leads to the conclusion that the subterranean agencies must have been operating during a greatly prolonged period, with intervals not protracted enough to allow a material change in the condition of their hearth. The mineralogical character of the rocks seems to indicate that their formation began prior to the Tertiary period, and continued to the present era. This inference is corroborated by evidences drawn from the relative dislocations of the strata of the western continent. Single portions of the Coast Ranges of California and the Sierra Nevada have undoubtedly been raised at different periods (not consid- ering the first upheaval of the Sien-a Nevada by the granitic eruptions). The subdi- visions of the Tertiary formation hold there difterent relative positions at difterent ])oints, besides being raised, at least partly, from 2,000 to 3,000 feet above their original level. The great dislocations of the strata in and east of the Rocky Moimtains also prove that such disturbances have taken place at various times prior, during, and after the Tertiary period; and they seem to have reached their climax in the eruption of these various rocks. By further investigation we would, probably, be enabled to draw more distinct lines of separation between the different groups, and assign to them their relative age. 308 EXPLOKATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. MICTAMOKPHIC AND ALTEKHD ROCKS. Metaniorphic rocks, sucli as gneiss, mica scliist, clay-slate, and others, are but sparingly distributed over this section, and seem to be mostly confined to the innne- diate proximity to the granites. They occur in the Wahsatch range, the Goshoot Mountains, the Montim range, the Black Mountains near Carson River, &c.; but only in tlie Sierra Nevada they are more considerably developed. The stratified rocks all over the district have, however, undergone great changes by the influence of the igneous eruptions, either directly, by mechanical fi)rce and heat, or by chemical agen- cies accidentally connected with the outbursts, such as alkaline waters, &c. They have been tilted, and brecciated, and baked; secretions of siliceoiis matter have been pro- duced, and agate and jasper formed. In numerous places sandstones have been altered into compact flint rock; in others, tliey have assumed a porphyritie appearance, in consequence of a beginning secretion of crystalline quartz from the siliceous matrix, which has attained a uniform, even texture. I only mention specimens No. 273, from Kobah Valley, and No. 288, from Reese's River. In slaty rocks such a change cannot be easily traced, because, by being similarly affected, they at once assume the aspect of truly eruptive rocks; and an appearance of stratification cannot be regarded as conclusive evidence of the sedimentary origin. It may he the result of the peculiar circumstances under which a fluid mass has cooled, or of successive volcanic efiusions. I have observed several instances where igneous rocks formed what appeared to be regular diversified strata, one above the other, re- quiring a careful examination to convince me that the rocks Avere not originally aque- ous sediments, and altered or semifused, but truly eruptive. In other instances the distinctions are less obvious. Igneous rocks in such thin strata, like those in veins, generally exhibit a different appearance from those in larger bodies, because they have cooled quicker in contact with cold surfaces, whereby the free play of the molecular attraction and the separation of the constituent minerals is impaired or even forced into a different direction. Instances of that kind will be mentioned in the description of the single rang-es of mountains. In the deserts east of Carson Lake I have observed a mountain of white dolomite, apparently altered from a dark-gray magnesian limestone, which still forms part of the mountain in an unaltered state. For a full description, see below. STRATIFIED ROCKS. Little has been known before of the formations in Western Utah, not even along the traveled routes. On the geological map of Professor Hall, in the Report on the Mexican Boundary Survey, a large portion of it is colored as metamorphic, and the remainder is left blank. In Caj^tain Beckwith's report merely "limestones" are men- tioned occasionally, but their age had not been determined. That Upper Carbonifer- ous limestones occurred near Salt Lake, was the only fact satisfiictorily established. From our investigations in the field and our collections, much important information has been derived. They have largely contributed to our knowledge of the extent and development of the geological formations, and have also proved the existence of some GEOLOGICAL REPOliT. 309 not liitlierto known so far West. Referring to Mr. Meek's report, I Avill confine myself to some general remarks, and describe the rocks more fnlly in the subjoined enumera- tion of the single mountain ranges. Stratified rocks of the Paleozoic age were found extensively developed many hundreds of feet in thickness. A large portion of them belong to the Upper Carbon- iferous fonnation, the existence of which near Salt Lake had been jiroved by Prof I. Hall, from collections bi-ought in by Captain Stansbury and others. It is principally composed of dark gray and bluish siliceous or silico-argillaceous limestones, with sili- cious or calcareous slates, and some siliceous or calcareous sandstones. With this series of rocks, as exposed in the Timpauogos Canon, west of Lake Utah, I found fragments of Lepidodendron ifi a slate rock, and in the same mountains also a series of bluish-black argillaceous shales, containing a great deal of carbona- ceous matter. Captain Simpson obtained there some pieces which are a mixture of such shale with small particles of brittle anthracite. From this we infer that the waters there at one time must have been shallow, and dry land probably near, and that conditions must have prevailed favoring the growth of coal-plants, although, per- haps, not sufiicient to produce strata of coal. Examining the shales at several points, I found the carbonaceous matter only disseminated in small particles, but in other places it may be more frequent, and concentrated in pockets, and even strata of coal. As the indications of coal of true Carboniferous date are more favorable there than at any other point examined in the far West, they ought to be followed iip. The question whether stone-coal of the Carboniferous age exists here is of superior impoi'tance at the ^Jresent time, when the communication by rail with the Pacific States has become a political necessity. Even if a railroad should not be located in that imiuediate vicinity, a thorough investigation of the subject would be desirable. If coal was found in one place, geologists would be enabled to trace it to distant points, even where it is now concealed by overlying formations or recent deposits. In San Pete Valley, about one degree of latitude farther south, in the same mountain range, a coal has been found superior to any which I have seen west of the Mississippi coal-basin, and Avhich would furnish a most valuable fuel for locomotives. I have not examined the locality myself It might perhaps be a true stone-coal, and be connected with the above shales ; but from all that I have been able to learn about the formation, I am confident that it is an equivalent of the Sulphur Creek coal of more recent origin, and associated with the rocks which are developed on the eastern slope of the Wahsatch range. (See section IV.)* The Upper Carboniferous strata, wherever observed before in the western portion of the continent, seem to have been formed at the bottom of a deep ocean, whicli precludes the formation of coal.f Prof I. Hall, in his Report of the Geological Sur- vey of Iowa, vol. i, part i, p. 138, and also in the Report of the Mexican Boundary Survey, vol. i, makes use of the following language: "The conditions favorable for the production of an extensive deposit of marine limestone are not such as usually accompany the production of coal. * * * 'YIiq evidences of the existence * This opinion has since proved correct. t Mr. Blake, iu a paper read before the American Association, has stated the existence of coal-plants in the sonth- castern portion of the Koclsy Mountains, l)ut the proceedinjjs have not yet been pnblished. 310 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. of this ocean in tlie far West and Southwest during the coal-period amount to almost a proof that the conditions of that area, which now constitutes a part of this continent, were never such as to admit of the production of coal-plants, and the deposition of such mateiials as make up the Coal-Measures, at least diiring the latter part of the Coal- Period. In regard to the earlier part of that period, or the time in which the Lower Coal-Measm-es were foraied, Ave have not at jiresent the means of fully deciding what Avere the conditions of the central or soiithwestern part of the continent." On the other hand, no decidedly LoAver Carboniferous strata liaA-e eA-er been found in those regions before, and we haA-e, therefore, been unable to speak vrith certainty about the non-existence of stone-coal in the AA'estern Coal-Measm-es, the lower portion of which, the equiA'alent of the coal-beanng rocks of the Mississippi Valley, might have escaped obserA-ation in the far West. Not far fi-om the locality of the shales, I have found LoAver Carboniferous strata, and the supposition is oliA-ious that these shales might hold an intennediate position as lower members of the Upper Carboniferous or Coal-Measure series. I have not been able to obtain a section, nor to trace the Upper and Lower Carboniferous strata to their line of connection, and, therefore, cannot ex- press a definite opinion in this respect. The shales certainly hold a position not very high in the series, but I doubt whether they correspond to any particular horizon in the Upper Carboniferous rocks of the East. The upper diA-ision of the rocks on Timpanogos RiA-er, consisting mostly of light- colored sandstones, some siliceous limestones, and a few red, shaly strata, is character- ized by some fossils, which Mr. Meek finds analogous to Pemiian fonns. The diflfer- ence of their lithological character from that of the L^pper Carboniferious rocks lower down in the canon, faA'ors the sixpposition that they are distinct from them and actually of Permian age, but the eA-idence is not conclusiA-e. Our collection contains fossils which point decidedly to the LoAver Carboniferous period as the age of a series of rocks in the immediate Adcinity of Camp Floyd, west of Lake Utah. These rocks are also dark-colored, impure limestones, slates, and sand- stones. Part of them are much like some of the rocks in the Timpanogos Cation^ Avhile others are much more siliceous, and the fossils are also couA-erted into silex and badh' preserved. Among them occiu-s the s])iral axis of an Archimedes, a decidedly Lower Carboniferous type, and the first specimen of this fossil yet found in the region of the Rocky Mountains. At mauA' other points strata haA^e been obserA'ed, to which we attribute the same age. Further west, betAveen longitude 115° and 115° 30', and latitude 40° 10' and 39° 20', there is a series of hills and mountains, trending nearly north and south, also made vip of rocks of the Carboniferous age, but of a very difterent lithological appearance. They are several hundi-ed feet in thickness; mostly light-yellowish, more or less are- naceous and argillaceous limestones, with an earthy fracture, also light gray, subcrys- talline, siliceous limestones, and a great deal of light-yellowish, arenaceous, and calca- reous slates. The limestones are highh' fossiliferous, and the greatest portion of them undoubt- • edly Upper Carboniferoiis ; but other strata from the outskirts of tliis formation, not, hoAvever, much differing in appearance, are considered by Mr. Meek as perhaps LoAver Carboniferous. Distinct limits could not be di'awn. GEOLOGICAL EEPOltT. 311 Devonian strata have also been found at several points, and as far west as longi- tude 115° 58', and latitude 39° 53'; that is, 1,200 miles farther westward than they have hithei-to been found in situ, as far as it is known to lis. We have good reason to believe that they exist also at an intermediate point in the Medicine Bow Mount- ains or their neighborhood. (See section III.) The Devonian rocks are also blue limestones and slates, and do not differ essen- tially in their lithological character from rocks of the Carboniferous formation. A con- siderable development of siliceous conglomerates and sandstones, found at a higher level than the Devonian rocks, apparently occupy the position of the (Jld Red of the English geologists. As yet we have no conclusive evidence of the existence of Silurian strata in this district ; but there is a considerable development of mag-nesian and siliceous limestones, which circumstantial evidence leads me to consider as belonging to that foi-mation. They contain only a few fossils. Some fragments of trocliiform univalves, and some coralline forms found in them, do not aiford a sufficient criterion, but are not unlike some from Silurian strata of the Mississippi Valley. West of 116° of longitude these stratified rocks nearly disappear. Indications of them have been found at various points beyond; but they are so thoroughly altered by the influence of the igneous rocks, that no traces of fossils could be found ; nor could I decide whether they are altered beds of the Paleozoic formations, or perhaps of a more distant age. No strata of a period more recent than the Paleozoic have been found in the mountain ranges, along our line of exploration, with the exception of some quite recent formations. If they have ever been formed they must have been swept away entirely. Information communicated by Dr. Charles Brewer, United State i Army, seems, how- ever, to indicate that more recent, perhaps Triassic or Cretaceous, strata extend into the basin from the east, across the southern continuation of the Wahsatch range. No marine Tertiary strata have been observed like those which occur in the south- em lower portion of the basin. All the more recent deposits in the valleys are ead- dently lacustrine and local. By the numerous pluto-volcanic eruptions the stratified rocks have been much distm'bed. In the single mountains they are tilted in every possible direction and degree. Their dip is frequently reversed several times within short distances, and great contortions and faults must have been occasioned. Moreover they exhibit a great sameness in appearance throughout, and are generally badly accessible, and only at long intervals. No section could be obtained under these circumstances. The thick- ness of these Paleozoic strata, however, is very considerable. Hundi'eds of feet have been observed of each one of the formations mentioned above, and the whole must be measured by thousands. THE VALLEYS AND THEIR LACUSTRINE FORMATIONS. The extensive valleys occupy about half the area of the whole district. Besides some outliers of the igneous and older stratified rocks of the mountains, we find in them indurated strata only at a few points, and these are mostly stratified horizonteilly, 3 1 2 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TUE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. and of evitlently lacustrine origin. They impart no peculiar character to the valleys, most of which have derived their configuration from lakes and inland seas, which must have covered a large portion of this country Avithin the present era, after the last great o-eological changes had taken place, and the continent had attained its present outlines. The valleys are generally fonned by corre.sponding slopes, steeper near the mountains, and so gradually converging toward a center, that it would frequently require instru- mental observations to decide whether the gi-ound is horizontal or inclined. In some places we find wide flats many miles in extent. Part of these valleys are not inunedi- ately connected with Avater-courses, but form separate basins, and, when of consider- able leng-th, they are subdivided by a rising ground into a number of smaller ones. Others have a regular descent in theii' longitudinal direction, and a drainage on the surface, sending large volumes of Avater to lower points, especially during the season of melting snow, while later in the season most of the creeks dry up entirely. Besides their general shape Ave have other numerous eA-idences that largo bodies of Avater occupied the valley at a former period. At some points, as stated iibove, we find horizontal strata. No fossils haA-e been noticed in them, but their petrographical character clearly indicates a recent origin. Such strata, for instance, were found in Kobah Valley, Avhere it is interesting to observe hoAv the drainage tOAvard Pah-hun- nu-pe Valley was finally eifected by the erosion of Swallow Canon. In many of the A^alleys regular "benches" of shingle and detritus have been fonned along the sur- rounding heights, and around the Island Mountains, indicating a former beach, sometimes of considerable width. They frequently appear as distinct water-marks of equal height all around. A striking eAddence of this kind is found in the Salt Lake Valley, where such a bench-mark can be seen at a glance, extending con- tinuously nearly 20 miles, and more than 200 feet above the present level of the lake, Avhile others are loAver doAA^n. Captain Stansbury mentions a place at the northern end of Salt Lake where he counted 13 such successive benches, the highest 200 feet above the valley, and he states that the Avater-marks extend to near the sum- mit of Fr(imont's Island, wliich is from SQO to 900 feet high. Less distinct, but still easily recognizable, such benches were obse^-ed in most of the valleys, though not in so large number. Instead of benches, Ave find at some points a continuous rim of calcareous tufa along the mountains, also pro\nng conclusively a higher state of water at a former period. This was observed especially on a branch of the Great Salt Lake Desert near the Fish Springs, and in the neighborhood of Carson Lake. Such fonnations may also exist unnoticed in many con-esponding locahties. They can be readily distinguished from the tufaceous deposits of springs, as noticed at other points of the route. Inter- estino- deposits of this kind and on a more extensive scale have been described by Mr. Blake from the Colorado Desert, in Lieutenant Williamson's Report of the Pacific Raih-oad Explorations. The material composing the bottom of the A-alleys, although differing according to local circumstances, is generally such as cannot Avell have been formed in any other way than as the sloAvly increasing deposit of a quiet Avater. Except in the immediate •vicinity of the moimtains, Avhere coarser fragments of rocks are mixed Avith it, it con- GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 313 si'sts of A-eiy fine sand or clay, and is mostly an areno-avgillaceons impalpable material of light bntf-color. Near Camp Floyd, in Cedar Valley, Avhere I had an oi)portnnity to examine more closely, the iipper stratum and soil is a finely arenaceous loam; the subsoil very rough, and still more sandy, and exceedingly hard when dry. They make excellent "adobes" or sundried brick, the usual building material of the country. Lower down it changes into nearly pure, very fine sand, Avith oidy a few particles oj clay. This, when dry, does not appear sandy, but forms compact pieces which readily absorb water and thereby become plastic, though only slightly coherent; a little more water causes it to dissolve into single grains of sand. In such beds, from a depth of 40 feet, we obtained a number of minute fresh-water and land shells belonging to the genera S2)hrri{(m (C//cI(is), Li/miiea, Helix, AmtiicoJa, &c. Near Camp Floyd, so-called saleratus-clay is found (saleratus is an expression frequently iised in that region instead of salt, the latter name being reserved for the common salt, the chloride of sodium), a bluish-gray arenaceous clay, in which salts form white crystallizations, films and nodules, mostly consisting of sulphate of magnesia, and a little sulphate of lime and common salt, perhaps also sulphate of alumina combined with the sul[)hate of magnesia to alum. (8ee below.) Similar clays are widely distributed. Also coarser sand occurs, in some places like a regular beach; in others, again, as drift-sand or deej), coarse sandy soil. It would be superfluous to enumerate all the single ol»servations which confirm the theorv of the prevailing lacustrine formation of the basin. That the country ad- joining Salt Lake and Carson Lake has once been covered with water must strike every observer. Captain Stansbury, in speaking of the Salt Lake Desert, remarks: "These plains are but little elevated above the present level of the lake, and have, beyond question, at one time formed part of it. An elevation of but a few feet above the present level of the lake would flood this entire flat to a great distance, thus forming a vast inland sea." If a rise of the water of a few feet would have such an effect, what would not be the effect of an increase of several hundred feet to the highest water- marks? We can entertain no doubt that such was the condition of the country at the be- ginning of the present era, after the last great geological changes had taken place. The position of the latest Tertiary strata, capping the highest summits of the adjoining Wahsatch ]\Iountains, proves that great revolutions have taken place at the close of that period, while the deposits of the basin exhibit not the slightest signs of a disturb- ance, and occupy exactly such places as they would take, and present such features as they would assume, if those agencies were renewed which led to their formation; in other words, if the country was again covered with water. The disappearance of the water is connected with the generally increased aridity of the southwestern portion of the territory of the United States, numerous evidences of which have been adduced by all explorers. Some have tried to explain the sub- sidence of the water by volcanic eruptions and consequent changes of the level; but this explanation, although it may apply to single cases, is by no means satisfactory. Volcanic eruptions would only throw the water to some other point, and not effect a decrease of its quantity; and even if one basin was thus drained, numerous others 40 b u 314 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS TOE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Avould be left. Where a reg'ion of the size of tlie Great Basin is concerned we must look for agencies of a more general character. Others explain the disappearance of the water by subterranean outlets. Such outlets may exist in some instances, but it is impossible to assume a subterranean outlet for every sinking creek or river, espe- cially for those nearer to the center of the district. The sinks of all the rivers have bad water in consequence of an accumulation of salts; and the water of Salt Lake is even a concentrated brine, notwithstanding the continual affluence of large volumes of fresh water by the Jordan, Bear Rivei-, Weber River, and others. If there Avas an out- let, the salt water Avoidd be carried off, and the lake would become a fresh-water lake. No such suppositions are required to explain the subsidence of the waters since the beginning of the present era. We oidy need to examine into the natural course of events. By applying the physical laws, we find that it is all the consequence of the geographical situation, and the topogTaphical features of the country. Evaporation is the great agency which produces so startling effects. We have a mountainous district with numerous lakes and vast inland seas, elevated from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the ocean, and surrounded by mountain-ranges as many thousand feet higher, beyond Avhich, to the north, east, and southeast, moun- tains and elevated plains extend for many hundred miles; while on the west and south- west sides the ocean is nearer, but separated trom it by a gigantic range of mountains, the summits of which tower high above the clouds. The country all around will then be well supplied with moisture; soil will l)e formed and covered Avith plants best adajjted to its properties and location. At such an elevation above the ocean the air is thin, tlie evaporation fnst. Part of the vnpors will be condensed again in the same district and on the neighljoring- mountains, but the remainder Avill be carried beyond and lost irieparably, feeding rivers Avhich run aAvay to the far-distant oceans. The climate of the country to tlie north, east, and soutlieast is too dry, even if we make allowance for a better state of things at that time, and the ocean too distant, to make an adequate return ; while, to the west and southAvest, the high mountains turn oft' the clouds, and effectually preA^ent the passage to the basin of more than a very limited amount of moisture; moreoA-er, as their eastern base is much higher than the Avestern, they Avill more favor the egress than the ingress of cloxuls. The loss AA'ill be small at first and scarcely felt; but taking place continually through hundreds of years, the effects of it will gradually begin to shoAv themselves. The depth of the waters will diminish inch by inch and foot by foot; the shallowest spots will become dry, but still tlie country around Avill be sufficiently supplied Avith moisture, and capable of sus- taining, vigorously, vegetable and animal life. Such seems to have been the condition AAdiile human beings lived on this continent. Traditions 2)oint to the country around these seas as the home of powerful tribes, Avliich afterward, as the country became more and more inhospitable, emigrated to the south. The remains of ancient toAA'us in New ]\f exico and Southeastern Utah, of the origin of Avhich, and of the time when they Avere inhabited, the present generation has no knoAvledge, seem to indicate a more prosper- ous condition of the country in former times. It seems also to be an established fact, that then a nmch more vigorous vegetation existed in some of the central portions of the continent, the remains of which are still found Avhere uoav only a stunted growth (iEOLOC.ICAL KErOKT. 315 of desert plants scantily cover the barren waste. Volcanic; eruptions may liavp been the immediate cause of the desolation of sino-lo spots, but we nuxst look to ajrencies affecting more equally the whole country, in order to explain the changed state of the present time. The quantity of eva[)orated Avater decreases not in the same measure, as the shallowest places become dry, and tlierefore the surface of the Avater becomes smaller, but the quantity of condensed moisture and the humidity of the surrounding country decrease ])roj)ortionally. The air becomes more dry, and the evaporation, instead of actually decreasing proportional to the siuiace of the sea, Avill rapidly increase, and the shore-lines become more and more contracted. The springs, creeks, and rivers will be reduced or discontinue altogether, and the surrounding country become barren and depopulated. Thus the present condition of the basin Avas produced. In the southern, less elcA'ated, but warmer, portion of the basin the state of things is even more unfavorable. The quantity of atmospheric precipitation there is merely nominal. SPRINGS AND CRKEKS. In the spring the snoAv melts in the mountains, and also the little that is in the Aalleys and has not disappeared before by evaporation. The water then naturally abounds on the surface. At this time the fissures and clefts of the rocks, the reservoirs from which the springs are fed during the remainder of the year, receive their supply of moisture. Rivulets and creeks run down in CA'ery direction. Many of these sink in the absorbent sand of the A'alleys as soon as they reach the foot of the mountains. Others continue ou even to more distant points, until they sink or join larger water- courses. The water absorbed at one point frequently returns to the surface at a loAver place, forced up by an impervious stratum of clay or by a rocky barrier, especially Avhere a valley is contracted by projecting spurs of hills or a branch A-alley unites Avith the main valley. Often the Avater sinks again immediately after the barrier has been crossed, Avithin a feAV yards of its rise. At other points the water i-egains the surface because the sand is saturated to its full extent. Thus secondary springs are formed, frequently in the shape of ponds. At this season the A'alley deposits absorb a great deal of Avater, and become miry or ovei-floAvn at numerous points. During the other seasons ihe affluence is smaller, many creeks arid springs discontinue, and the subterranean reservoirs, formed of the sand at the bottom of the valley which has been saturated in the spring, are emptied by CA'aporation, and by supplying the springs and creeks Avith which they connect. The creeks and rivers form either lakes, the Avater of which disai)pears by evapo- ration, and the surplus of it is absorbed in the Avet season by the adjoining sand-flats, or they diy up gradually and sink in the thirsty sand without even forming lakes. The aridity of the climate and consequent amount of evaporation may be judged from the fact that during our survey the difference betAveen the diy and the wet bulb thermometer frequently inthcated a nearly complete absence of moisture in the atmos- phere. This Avas observed even on the shores of Carson Lake and in Carson Valley, 316 EXPLOKATIONS ACIIOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. at the immediate foot of the Sierra Nevada, under tlie shadow of its stately pines, with miles of overflowed meadow-land before us. Most waters contain more or less impurities, from the gradual decon)i)osition of the rocks and soils which they percolate. In consequence of their continued evapora- tion, impurities and salt substances have considerably accumulated in many valleys, and form efflorescences on the surface. Thus the secondary springs, which issue at low points in the valleys, are frequently impregnated with siilts, and all the lakes formed by the sinks of rivers contain bad water. The mountain sjjrings are in some instances highly calcareous, ;ind some of them deposit considerable tufa. Home others are brackish, containing salts from the decom- ])osition of pyritiferous slates or from other sources. These are partly unlit for use during the dry season, while they may be sweet and palatable diu-ing spring, when they run more copiously and mixed Avith the waters from the melting of the snow. Although there is a great deticiency of water in general, numerous springs are found at distances convenient for the traveler, especially in the higher portion of the country. Various causes co-operate there to atford a permanent supply. Foremost in this respect is the great elevation of several of the mountain ranges. They retain snow on their summits during a great portion of the year, which not only supplies the springs directly, but also favors the precipitation of atmospheric moisture. Near the highest 'mountains thunder-stonns gather, and rain falls much more abundantly than in wide valleys, liy their very Ijulk they are also enabled to retain more moisture, and thus they aftl>rd a more i^ermanent supply than minor ranges. The numerous disruptions of the r(jcks afford the water access to greater depth, and by a reversion of the dij) bring it back to the surface at points which would be devoid of water without. Some of the finest permanent springs on the route are thus formed on the line of contact between the stratified and igneous rocks. The sinking of the water in the sand favors its preservation. These subterranean reservoirs are impenetrable to the heat, and the water can only evaporate slowly as it rises to the surface by the capillary action, while, if exposed to the open air, it would rapidly disapj)ear. Withoirt this provision not only many sprhigs would be entirely deprived of their supply, but also a genei"al decrease of moisture R'ould take place. A point must be reached where the quantity of water in the basin is so small that the loss by vapors carried beyond its limits is balanced by the gain of atmospheric moisture from outside. We are unable to decide whether this point has been reached or the quantity of water is .still diminishing, which is said to be the case in the Salt Lake Valley. HOT AND MINEKAL SPRINGS. There are alsf) numerous warm and mineral springs in Central and Western Utah, several of which have long ago attracted the attention of travelers, and have been de- scribed by Dr. Wislizenus, Colonel Fremont, Captain Stansbury, Captain Beckwith, and others, to which I refer. I only mention the Beer and Steamboat Springs on Bear River, the numerous hot-springs at the western foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, the Hot Sidphur Springs at the eastern base of the Humboldt Mountains, the Boiling Springs near Mud Lake and in the Honey Lake Valley, &c. The water in most of them con- CIEOLOGIOAL KEPOKT. 317 tains cnrboiiate of lime, sulpliato of lime, ,siili)liate of luagiiesia, some little chloride of sodium, &c. Some are sti-oiiiiate(l witli sulpliureted liydrogen, or free car- bonic acid. In tlie "Warm tS|)rinpf and Hot Sprino-, near Salt Lake C'ity, coumion salt is the main mineral constituent.* Several of the springs dejjosit considerable quantities of calcareous tufa. In some places piu-e cold springs issue near the boiling hot salt springs, from similar orifices.f Such hot mineral springs can only Ije found upon a rocky base, because if running any distance through h>ose dejrosits, they would cool, their gases would escape, their carbonate of lime be precii)itated, &c., or, in one word, they would more or less lose their thermal character. For this reason we chiefly find such springs in or near the mountains; and where any apparent exceptions occur, as in the case of the spring in Kobah Valley, an underlying rocky stratum must be suspected. The most interesting of the mineral springs along the line of our survey are the Warm Springs, in Roiuid Prairie, on the Timpanogos, east of Utah Lake. As they exhibit the various stages of the successive formation and discontinuation of such springs, a description of them will be instructive. Nearly the whole i)ortion of Round Prairie, on the northwest side of the river, is formed of horizontal strata of calcareous tufa, in some places 15 to 20 feet high from the creek, and covering an area of abotit four square miles. On this common ^ilateau four smaller ones have been formed on the points where the springs have chiefly con- centrated tlieir action, and on these the numerous springs are raised, or rather have raised their openings, while a few form basins in the plateaus. Most of the springs have the shape of conical tunuili of various heights, with a circular or oval opening on the top, and an oven-shaped cavity inside, wider at the base than near the rim. Their number is very great if we count all the small ones, and the diameter of the opening varies from a few inches to about 30 feet. Most of them are now dry and filled up to some extent with soil, while others contain more or less water, which is warmer or colder proportional to the quantity of the affluent. The more the deposits of the springs have choked the supplying channels the less water can flow out during a certain time, and the more heat it will lose on the way and on the surface, while the larger and less obstructed affluent will lose less heat in proportion. The temperature of the water varies, therefore, between 80° and 109°. 5 Fahrenheit. Most of the springs have no visible affluent or outlet, but the temperature of the water and rising bubbles of gas indicate an affluent, and the exit must take place through crevices in the rock, and makes the gi-ound all around marshy. One of the most beautiful forms a basin 30 feet long, 12 feet wide, and 18 feet deep, in which the water reaches to one foot and a half below the rim. The northern group of springs is distinguished by their high conic shape with a comparatively narrow base. On the Avestern plateau is the highest spring; its cone is about GO feet high, 100 feet wide on the top, and 200 feet at the base; its total elevation above the Timpanogos must be about 120 to 150 feet. The opening ' This salt may either come from salt-beds at a depth, or more likely it is salt water from the lake, which, by a subterraneous fissure, gains access to the hot spring and is carried up in its main channel. t In such cases, evidently, the cold orifice was formerly also an opening of the deep-seated hot spring, but the connection becoming obstructed, the open upjier jiart of the channel presented a convenient outlet for cold surface- water. 318 Ex^LORATIO^■s acuoss the gkeat basin of utao. oil the top of tliis spring is only 12 or lo feet wide, partly covered with calcareous scum de])Osited over arpxatic plants which float on the water, and on the top of which grass was found growing. This indicates the mode in which the spring openings have been closed up. The top of the spring sounds hollow. The water Avas found 10 feet deep, and 107° Fahrenheit warm; it flows freel}' over the rim of the cone, and dis- appears at the base in the jiumice-like tufa which it has deposited, and in the swampy ground around. The warmest spring, of 10y°.5 Fahrenheit, is one of the most southern, and forms an elliptical large mound, which evidently has had different oj^enings at dif- ferent times: now all except one are closed Avith tufa or tilled with scum, and over- grown with a luxm-iant vegetation, in consequence of the humidity and wannth. The present outlet is four feet wide and nearly flUed u]) Avith calcareous scum. It Avill be closed probably in a short time. The Avater runs freely over tlie rim, but disappears before reaching the base of the eleA^ation. Some gas bubbles up in all these springs: it has no smell, and seems to be carbonic acid; but after the Avater had been kept some time in a bottle, on opening the same a distinct smell of sulphureted liydrogen was percejitible, probably formed subsecpiently by the decomposition of some sulphate by organic particles. The water contains, in solution, a large amoiuit of solid substances, chiefly carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, sulphate of mag-nesia, also some carbonate of soda and a little chloride of sodium. I could not detect anything else Avith the blow-i)ipe. The tufa, as well the compact, granular kind, Avhich forms hori- zontal layers, as the pumice-like Aesiculai', Avhich is deposited h\ the Avater ruiniing over the rim of the basin and on the plants AA'hich groAv in the Avater, is maiidA' car- bonate of lime and carbonate of magnesia. As a curiositA', I mention that the Avarmth of the springs attract innumerable rattlesnakes. Their principal resort is betAveen the large slabs of tufa at a dry and shattered spring-cone. A great deal of tufa has been deposited also at Big Spring-, northeast of Battle Creek. The water of that sjiring tastes someAvhat like that of the Warm Springs, but is not altogether unfit for di'inking. A spring with similar tufaceous cones, but on a smaller scale, and such fiirmations as indicate an apparently similar origin, Avere noticed at A'arious points. The one in Kobah ValleA" particularly attracted my attention. There is an irregularly conic hill, composed of calcareous tufa, some 40 feet high and 150 feet in diameter. ScA-eral former orifices can be easily distinguished on it, but the Avater has forced another outlet a little farther west, where it has formed a loAver mound, which is overgrown with A'egetation. I could scarcely hold my hand in the water, the tempcratxu'e of which must be aljout 120° Fahrenheit. It does not taste considerably sulphurous or salt, but sustains a peculiar A-egetation of a yelloAv color, an Oscilhtforia, Avhich genus of })lants also groAvs in the hot springs of Iceland, and which smells mimistakably of iodine. It appears that these plants, by their segi-egating power, have absorbed from the Avater this substance, upon the presence of Avhich, eAen in the smallest percentage, the medical properties of some of the most eftectiA'e mineral-Avaters are founded. The same may also occur in others of these mineral springs, but generalh- it can be detected only by chemical analAsis. The hot spring near the bend of AValker Iviver has a tem})erature of 105° Fah- GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 319 renlieit tit the surface. It tonus a small pond, from the bottom of wlilcli the water is boiling np through several holes, accompanied by ljubl)les of gas, probably of car- bonic acid, and steaming vigorously on the surtiice. There are no calcareous dejiosits, but the ground around the spring is covered with salt, A\hich tastes like chloride of sodium. The water miist, therefore, contain salt, which, however, does not impair its taste. The salt from this spring has shared the fate of several other salts and speci- mens of efrtoresceiices of the collection; it has been dissolved in consequence of the upsetting of one of our Avagons in Carson Kiver, and Ave are thus unable to present an analysis of it. The vegetation near this and other similar springs is peculiar, partly on account of the saline nature of the soil, partly on account of the steaming atmos- phere which surrounds it, and by which its development is torced very considerably. Fish Spring, in a branch of the Salt Lake Desert, is similar to the last, but much less warm, so that animals drink the water freely. The springs on the Avest side of Pah-hun-nupe Valley, on our northern route, are slightly sulphureous. The Alkali Si)rings, at the Avestern foot of the Black Mountains, east of Carson Lake, contain a A\'ater apparently impi-egnated Avith an aggregate of the most offensive ingredients, and tardily oozing from the soil Avherever a hole is dug. IMI'ROVEMENTS IN THE 8UI'I>LY OF AVATEK. In regions like those of Western Utah, where the natural supply of water is lim- ited, and not always to be tmind at convenient distances, the question attains a para mount importance AAhether the supply of Avater cannot l)e increased by artificial means. Although the greatest poi-tion of the route explored by Captain Simpson is not deficient in this respect, still considerable improvements might be made at some points in order to increase the affluent, prevent the loss of water, and provide for the Avatering of a large number of animals Avithin the shortest possilde time. There are also some long stretches where the traveler Avould be much benefited if Avater could be obtained at intermediate points. In the folloAA'ing I Avill confine myself to general remarks. From all that has been said of the fonnation of the valleys, of the material of Avhich their bottom is formed, and of the structure of the mountain ranges, it Avill ap- ])ear that in general the success of the l)oring of artesian Avells Avould be douljtful, except Avhere Avater is naturally abundant. We do not find in the A^alleys that alterna- tion of strata, permeable and impermeable to Avater, Avliich is necessary for the con- straction of artesian Avells. They generally alloAv the Avater a free circulation in every direction, and the stratified rocks are too miich disrupted to be calculated upon Avith any degree of certainty. Frequently we Avould reach igneous rocks Avith the borer, and then the striking even of a fissiire would be merely accidental. In most instances all efforts would prove abortive, and if Avater Avas really ol)tained, it nn'ght be Avarm, or sidphureous, or saline. In order to increase the supply, Ave nnist confine ourselves to the improvement of natural springs, or to following iip the Avater in its subterranean course at the bottom of the valleys betAveen the quaternary deposits and the solid rocks, and gain access to it at favorable points. Water may be oljtained Avhere small and insufficient springs i-ise to the surfiice 320 Explorations across the great basin of utah, but sink within a short distance. In order to impro^'e tlieni tlieir origin must he exam- ined. If they can he traced to a crevice in the sohd rocks, we must try to prevent all loss of water, and excavate and secure large cisterns or tanks. This could be done frequently, at an exj^ense small compared with the great benefit derived from such a work. Where springs ai'e rather formed by exudation from a jiermeable stratum, or from numerous small fissures, and the water only collects iipon reaching a projecting bed of a more solid nature, we would have to consider this as the actual source, which, besides the construction of tanks, would not admit of any considerable improvements. The tanks ought to be placed so that the surplus of one would siiccessively fill the others. The last one would be intended for the watering of the animals, and accord- ingly be made accessible to them. In their construction special care should be taken to keep the water cool and prevent evaporation; they ought to be provided with a heavy covering. The capacity of the tanks must be enlarged proportional to the more or less permanent flow of the spring. In some instances very large reservoirs could be fonned with advantage, by throwing dams across narrow ravines. As a general thing, it is jjreferable to economize and preserve the supply on hand than to look for a questionable increase of the affluent, because the total quantity of water which the spring is able to furnish during a season may be limited, and a too rapid drainage would only accelerate its exhaustion. Plentiful springs, which, however, sink within a short distance, or are shallow and easily muddied — of which there are several on the route — would only require a clean- ing, and a suitable inclosure to keep off the animals, and a number of small tanks to facilitate their watering. Inclosures and troughs should also be provided where animals would be in danger of falling into the springs or of miring down while thronging round the water. We have explained before how the water, after sinking in the arenaceous forma- tions of the slopes and valleys, re-appears at points where its progress is intercepted by underlying strata of rocks or beds of clay, and that thus numerous springs are formed in the valleys. These may be impi'oved by similar means. At other points the water does not actually reach the surface, but comes so near it that it can be traced by a peculiar growth of plants, and be made available. We might, in many instances, obtain water by digging to the solid rock in ravines or washes which descend from high mountains, or in which the drainage of lai-ger districts is concen- trated. In them the affluent may be permanent, and originate from deep-seated sources, which would have formed springs iinless prevented by the heavy cover of loose ab- sorbent material, or it may be the temporary resiilt merely of the surface drainage. Should it be permanent, and in considerable quantity, it might be made accessible by excavations and secured like the springs; if only temporary, dams could be constructed across the ravine, and thus a large supply of water, at least for a part of the year, could be retained. For experiments of this kind always a narrow point of the ravine should be selected, Avliere the water was likely to be gathered in one stream. A con- stant subterranean discharge of water may occasionally be reached by shallow exca- vations or deeper wells at the junction of branch and main valleys, especially where projecting spurs of hills or some beds of rock or clay obstruct and contract the passage. GEOLOCUCAL EEPOET. 321 A plentiful affluent will mostly furnish good water, unless the strata which it percolates are charged with uuich salt. We will very seldom obtain ftivorable results by digging at other points. I have frequently mentioned the resei-voirs of water, formed by the absorbent deposits, at the bottom of many valleys, but to strike them, even from the lowest points of the valley, wells w^ould generally attain such a depth as w^ould make them almost useless, and the water would frequently be salt. Besides, we could only distantly guess at the con- figuration and greatest depressions of the rocky base, and, consequently, the most favorable location for the wells. In order to save time and money, we would in such cases recommend at least a previous examination by means of an earth-borer. SOIL AND VEGETATION. From Avhat has been said above, in speaking of the valleys in general, it appears that arenaceous material constitutes a considerable portion of the soil, more or less mixed with clay. Where the former prevails, the soil naturally becomes unfit to sus- tain anjr vegetation except a peculiar desert growth ; but the more it is mixed with argillaceous material, and the detritus of other rocks, the more nutriment it can aftbrd to the jjlants. The igneous rocks, by their decomposition, add consideral)ly to the fertilizing ingredients. Fi'om this it would appear that a large portion of the soils must be well consti- tuted for productiveness. There are, however, other causes which generally prevent the spontaneous growth of such a vegetation as we find in more favored countries, and confine the successfully cultivable areas to exceedingly narrow limits. These are chiefly to be found in the meteorological condition of the country. In some narrow mountain-gorges, where there is abundance of moisture, we find a quite luxuriant vegetation ; but wdierever the country opens out, it assumes the character of barrens and deserts. The growth of the valleys consists mostly of several species of Artimiaia (sage) and allied plants, becoming more and more dwarfish, and assuming a more sterile character, where the soil is more sandy and poor. In spots which receive mois- ture only periodically, and have a stiff, clay soil, greasewood is the prevailing vegeta- tion. Places which are subject to overfloAvs, and kept moist during the greater part of the year, favor the growth of wire-grass, and other coarse swamp-grasses; more mountainovis localities of this kind are covered with meadows of a tall grass resembling- somewhat rye. At still more swampy points, rushes and sedge-grasses occupy the surface. Over diy, deep sandy slopes, an exceedingly nutritious grass is scattered in single bunches, bearing large sweet seeds, which are eagerly Sought for by animals and Indians. For the latter, most of the grass-seeds constitute a main poi-tion of their winter supplies. In most of the mountain-ranges, several species of the so-called mountain-grasses abound. They are highly nutritious, and come out very early in spring ; and even in midwinter, after a few wai-m days, young green sprouts may be seen between the matted bunches of last year's growth. Being of a rather dry texture, they retain their nutritious qualities as fodder, in these arid regions, all the year round, and it is principallj^ on them that the cattle subsist. The growth of timber is confined to the mountain-ranges and some broken sandy 41 B u 322 EXPLOKATIOXS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. slopes. The cedar prevails throughout, but, although the truuk attains a considerable diameter, it generally has the shape of a stunted shrub. A small pine, with eatable seed (Finns monophijUus), accompanies the former, and occasionally the mountain- mahogany and a few other small trees or shrubs are met with. A low growth of wil- lows occasionally borders the margin of springs. Only in the Sierra Nevada, the Wah- satch Mountains, and on the banks of Carson River, larger trees of various kinds were found. The fall of rain is too irregularly distributed, and altogether insufficient, to sustain a better vegetation. There is no season for the development of more tender plants- The frost is immediately succeeded by drought. Therefore cultivation is confined to points where the soil is good and irrigation possible, of which the light sandy loam is particularly susceptible. Naturally these advantages are only combined in narrow strips, in some mountain valleys, at the foot of the higher ranges, or near very copious springs ; districts which form but a small portion of the whole area. A few spots, ovAj, which by the influence of constant moisture have a thoroughly decomposed soil, will bear crops without in-igation, and are in some instances exceeding fertile. The soil and climate in the neighborhood of Salt Lake are best adapted to wheat, vegetables, and root crops ; also, fruit trees, apples and peaches, thrive well. A small New Mexican variety of corn produces well, and is cultivated to a limited extent ; still it is frequently killed by frost, and the crop, therefore, uncertain. I have also seen tobacco growing, but the leaves were exceedingly coarse and quite woolly; a wild species of tobacco was found at several points. Cotton has also been raised in the southern part of the Temtory, but the success would appear to be very doubtful. The elevation of the Salt Lake Valley is from 4,200 to 4,300 feet above the ocean. In mountain valleys which ai'e more than 1,000 or 1,500 feet higher, cultivation may prove very uncertain. The late frosts and early cold and snow, common at this eleva- tion, would confine the growing and harvesting seasons in too narrow limits. Still, with a judicious selection of crops, even there permanent settlements might flourish, Avhich have other advantages not enjoyed by those lower down. The same may apply to most of the valleys in the more elevated, central portion of the line of our survey. MINERAL WEALTH. Valuable and interesting minerals occur at various points in the western and central pai-t of the Territory of Utah. Some of them are of the highest importance. Gold. — The route passes through the gold-fields, on the east side of the SieiTa Nevada, which lately have created much excitement in California and throughout the country. Close on the road, at Chinatown, on Carson River, near longitude 119° 30', we found a number of Chinese engaged in washing gold out of the sand, gravel, and bowlders at the mouth of Gold Canon ; among which I noticed pieces of dioritic and trachytic porphyiy, and other igneous and metamoi-j)hic rocks, forming the walls of the canon; also brown hematite and quartz. They made use of the "rocker" and "long tom," and were, generally, makingfrom 85 to 88 a day per rockei*. The gold there is a fine sand gold, apparently much alloyed, for which the ti-aders were paying 813.50 per oiince. The finer particles nuxst have been swept farther by the force of the cur- GEOLOGICAL KEPOUT. 323 rent flowing from the canon. It is evidently a recent deposit, and woidd at once lead to the conclusion that a larger auriferous bed must be found higher up hi the canon. In fact, a short time before we came there, gold had been discovered some seven miles above, on a branch of this canon. The diggings there are in a rotten quartz, and paid high. As much as $155 had been made by a man in a day. This is close by the now famous Comstock lode. Gold has also been found north and south of our route, on the upper course of Walker River, &c. In the Black Mountains, east of Carson Lake, a quartz-vein was noticed with altered argillaceous slates, gneiss, &c., but the hurried examination did not reveal any indications of gold. We must leave it to more detailed investigations to decide whether gold occurs in the more eastern ranges of Utah. No direct indications have been ob- served. Still we find at some points metamorphic rocks similar to those with which the gold is frequently associated in the Sierra Nevada ; and these ranges seem to have been originated by the same forces which have raised the Sierra Nevada, and to have been subject to the same agencies upon which its metallic wealth seems to depend. Moreover, Mr. Blake, in Captain Whipple's Pacific Railroad Report, mentions gold- diggings in anotlier part of the basin, namely, the Armagosa mine, near the southern road from Salt Lake to California, not many miles beyond the sink of the Mojave River, where the gold was found in connection with calcareous spar. Silvci: — At the time of our survey nothing definite was knoAvn in regard to the existence of silver in the basin. Rumors located argentiferous veins in the southern part of Utah. Recently rich silver-ore has been found in the close vicinity of the gold- mines of Carson River, in the so-called Washoe mines, which just now create so much excitement. Lead. — Minute particles of galena were noticed in an impure bi'own hematite, or a decomposed, highly ferruginous igneous rock, which crops out in the mountains northeast of Kobah Valley. It appears to be connected with a mineral vein, perhaps of argentiferous lead. Some pieces of galena (sulphiiret of lead) were exhibited at Camp Floyd as coming from the vicinity. Ores of lead, and perhaps copper and silver, may exist further south. Iron-ore has not been noticed near the road, but superior magnetic iron-ore occurs in the mountains near Cedar City, a small Mormon settlement not far from Little Salt Lake, longitude 113°, latitude 38°. An attempt was once made there to manufacture iron, but it failed. I am not aware of the particulars and the reason why, but if the inci-eased demand for iron and its price warranted it, the experiment might be renewed, and the obstacles probably be overcome by an experienced metallui-gist, notwith- standing the apparently inferior quality of the coal which is found in that neighbor- hood, and upon which the manufacturers A\ould have to depend. Native sulphur is found in the same vicinity. In the collection I have a specimen (obtained from Dr. Brewer, United States Army) which is very pure, but I ha^e been unable to get any information in regard to the quantity and connection in which it occurs. It may be the production of extinguished volcanic action. If it could be obtained in large quantity, as I should judge from the specimen, it would be highly valuable. 324 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Salt is found in g-reat qnantity. As the water of Salt Lake is a nearly concen- trated y)nre brine, salt can be got there at a triiling expense. (See Captain Stansbury's Report.) Other saline lakes contain impurities from which the salt cannot be freed so easily. Some of it Avas observed in many springs, round which it accumulates, but there is usually too little of it to be of much importance. Near the eastern rim of the basin, in the Wahsatch Mountains, large masses of rock-salt are found, partly in pure transparent crystalline pieces, partly strongly mixed with red clay, with which it is associated. The specimens in the collection have been obtained by the kindness of General A. S. Johnston and Colonel Crosman. Salt is tlms found in the mountains bordering San Pete Valley on the east, some 20 miles south of the Mormon settlement of Manti (in the latitude of Sevier Lake) ; also in the so- called San Pete Caiion, and still further south, near Captain Gunnison's trail. I have not examined any of these localities, and can, therefore, not decide to which geological formation the salt belongs. The limited information which I have been able to obtain in regard to it, and considerations of a general geological character, seem to indicate that it belongs to those strata which, in the neighborhood of Salt Lake and Utah Lake, are coniined to the eastern portion of the Wahsatch range, but seem to cross it further south toAvard Little Salt Lake. They have been spoken of in section IV, and may be of Triassic age. Gypsum is found in similar connection. Various other salts ai-e found in large quantities. SuJpliate of soda was received by Dr. Schiel as coming from the bottom of Salt Lake. (See Captain Beckwith's Pacific Railroad Report.) A salt, probably the same, forms heavy deposits on the eastern shore of Utah Lake, near Springville. Our sj^eci- mens have not yet been analyzed. It is a useful article in various manufactures, es^jecially that of soda. Sulphate of magnesia enters largely into the composition of many salts and saline water in that part of the coimtry. It is formed by the decomposition of various shales. Native alums were observed in several places. They are fonned by the decom- position of metamorphic slates and other rocks, &c., which contain pyrites. Captain Stansbury mentions alum from the northern end of Salt Lake. Dr. Schiel mentions a magnesian alum. All those which I have examined are magnesian alums, in which the sulphate of magnesia replaces, in a great measure, the alkaline component, which, in the common alum, is potassa. No complete analysis has been made by us of any of these alums. I have in the collection a specimen from Tuilla Valley, obtained from Colonel Crosman, and one from the neighborhood of Little Salt Lake, by Dr- Brewer. The saleratus-ciay, which I have mentioned already, seems also to contain it in considerable quantity. A specimen of this clay from Camp Floyd is of gray color, full of white crystallizations and nodules of saline substances, and sometimes whitish throughout. It is also formed by an acciimulation of salts from the decomposition of rocks in the clay. The soluble j^ortion contains a little common salt, a great deal of sulphate of magnesia, some sulphate of lime, and a little soda. Probably the sulphate of magnesia is in connection with sulphate of aliunina as magnesian alum. It makes GEOLOGICAL KEPORT. 325 good .adobes (unbui-nt brick), as do the otlier clays of that neigliborhood. The salts give this clay valuable properties as building material. Mixed with four parts of sand, it forms a superior plaster, and, stirred up in water, after the heavy part has settled down, it is advantageously used as a whitewash, because it adheres better to the wall than lime-water. This clay was extensively used in the erection of the buildings of Camp Floyd. Mineral springs. — I have spoken of them in another place. Some of them may have strong medical properties, esijecially on account of the iodine, of which I have discovered indications in the hot springs of Kobah Valley, of which a description has been given above. It is not unlikely that this powerful remedy might also be found, by analysis, in others of these spi-ings more favorably situated. Stone-coal. — In s})eaking of the stratified rocks, I have mentioned that the exist- ence of true stone-coal, of the Carboniferous formation, although possible, is still doubtful, and that those coals which are found in the Wahsatch range, in San Pete Valley, and near Little Salt Lake, are probably equivalents of the coal on Sulphur Creek, &c., on the eastern slope of that range, of which I have spoken in section IV. As this coal is much used in the Salt Lake Valley, and on account of its geo- graphical proximity to the Basin (the limits of which it seems to cross farther south,) I have to mention it again. The San Pete coal looks like true stone-coal, breaks in cubical fragments, has a dark-brown streak, and is bituminous. It is superior to any coal which I have seen west of the Mississippi River coal-fields, although it may be eqiialed by the Sulphur and White Clay Creek coal, if they are taken from the depth. It cokes to a certain degree, and can, therefore, be iised for all purposes, like coking- stone-coal, either fresh or as coke. In case a railroad should be built in that direction, the coal-beds in San Pete Valley or their equivalent at some other point, would probably have to furnish the motive power for several hundred miles of road. Topaz.! perfectly colorless and transparent, and of great beauty and luster, has been found in considerable quantity, loose on the surface, in Colonel Thomas's range. I did not see any in the rock, but it apparently originates from one of the trachytic porphyries in that neighborhood. Its degree of hardness is = 8. Before the blow-pipe it pi'oved infusible, and when strongly heated it was covered with small blisters, but did not show any change of color. It exhibited the re-actions of fluorine, alumina, and silex. (No tests for other elements were made). The largest of the crystals measured scarcely one-third of an inch in the direction of the basal cleavage, which was highly perfect. The crystals were all short colunmar, with various modifications, cori'esponding to the following crystallographic expressions, according to the system — All the crystals exhibit Moat of them also Few only CO c: oo c: c: CO 6: c: b: (•: h: c: b: c: b: c: b: c: b: c: en b: oo a 00 a O 4 r 2 2t 1 i i 326 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. As none of the ciystaLs haxe both ends perfect, I conld not ascertain wliether they are hemihedi*ally developed, as is most common with the topaz, or have both ends aUke. Its pyi-o-electricity was not examined, nor the polarization of light, but the crystals show very plainly the double refraction. I will conclude this jiaragraph with a passage from a letter of Colonel Fremont to the National Intelligencer, dated June 13, 1854, and afterward printed by order of Congress (33d Congress, 2d session. Mis. Doc. No. 8). Colonel Fremont crossed the Wahsatch range near Para van and Cedar City, and to these points his, perha])s a little too highly colored, observations refer : "They are what are called fertile mountains, abundant in water, wood, and gi-ass, and fertile valleys, offering inducements to settle- ments. The mountains are a great store-house of materials, timber, iron, coal, which would be of indispensable use in the construction and maintainance of the (Pacific) railroad, and are solid foundations to build up the future prosperity of the rapidly increasing Utah State. Salt is abundant on the eastern border; mountains, as the Sierra de Sal, being named from it. In the ranges lying behind the Mormon settlements? among the mountains through Avhich the line passes, are accumulated a great wealth of iron and coal, and extensive forests of heavy timber. These forests are the largest I am acquainted with in the Rocky Mountains, being in some places 20 miles in depth of continuous forest; the general growth is lofty and large, frequently over 3 feet in diameter, and sometimes reacliing 5 feet, the red spiiice and yellow pine predominating. At the actual southern extremity of the Mormon settlements, consisting of the two inclosed towns of Paravan and Cedar City, near to which our line passed, a coal-mine has been opened for about 80 yards, and iron-works already established. Iron here occurs in extraordinary masses, in some parts accumulated into mountains, which comb out in crests of solid iron thirty feet thick and a hundred yards long." GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF THE SUCCESSIVE MOUNTAIN RANGES. In the Wahsatch Mountains, on crossing Weber River from the east, on the road between Fort Bridger and Camp Floyd, we enter the district which I have comprised in section V. The main body of the divide between Weber River, Silver Creek, and Timpanogos River, is composed of dioritic porphyries, which I have described under the heading of igneous rocks. Near Kansas Prairie, the rocks exhibit a more lavatic appear- ance, but probably belong to the same group. These igneous protrusions may be regard- ed as the center of the range. East of them we find more recent stratified rocks, while on the west side the mountains appear altogether composed of strata of the I'aleozoic fonnation. On Weber River, and on the Timpanogos, above Round Prairie, con- glomeratic tufas were noticed, made iq) of these eruptive rocks, imbedded in a finer material of the same origin. These masses have either been deposited in water, or became at least cemented and indurated by its agency. The interesting warm springs of Round Prairie, and their formation of calcareous tufa, have been described alcove. Near the north end of Round Prairie, the first stratified rocks of this section were observed, tilted by the porphyries. These are mostly light-colored, and a few reddish sandston'es, a siliceous limestone, and some red, shaly strata. Their age is probably GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 327 the Permian (see iinclev stratified rocks). Tlie sedimentary rocks continue all the way down Timpanogos Canon. At its upper end compact siliceous and calcareous sand- stones prevail, which may also belong to the Permian formation ; while lower down we find more dark-gray, impure, siliceous and slaty limestones, frequently threaded with numerous veins of calcareous spar or dolomite, some of which exhibit many fos- sil remains, expecially Brachlopoda; also dark bluish-gray argillaceous, siliceous, and calcareous slates. In the lower part of the canon, and at various points south of its enti'ance, bluish-black argillaceous shales are exposed, containing a great deal of car- bonaceous matter, and, on their decomposed surface, crystals of gypsum and efflores- cences of sulphate of magnesia. At the mouth of the canon, again siliceous and cal- careous slates predominate. Of all these rocks I have spoken before, and stated that they all, or partly, repre- sent the upper division of the Carboniferous formation. They present no uniform dip, but are much disturbed and contorted; here horizontal, then bent with a sharp angle, or foi-ming vaults, or folded up so that the continuity of the overlying strata is alto- gether Ijroken, then rising at once vertically from the bottom of the A'alley many hun- dred feet, they again appear horizontal higher up, and thus continue in a gigantic wedge-shaped moiintain to a great altitude, as if they had never been subject to any \^olent actions from iindemeath — in reality, however, because only the horizontal por- tion of the strata could withstand destruction, while their bent and crushed continua- tions did not retain streng-th enough, and were eventually precipitated down and de- stroyed. The caiion forms a chasm in these disrupted strata, not less than 1,500 feet deep, and presenting a picturesque scenery, while the highest summits reach to the region of nearly perpetual snow, over 4,000 feet above the mouth of the canon. This whole thickness seems to be made up of similar strata; at least the red color which character- izes many of the more modern strata, on the eastern side of the range, was not ob- served on these peaks. The Upper Carboniferous formation is developed also at other points in the Avest- em portion of the Wahsatch Mountains. Prof I. Hall recognized it in some fossils of Captain Stansbury's collection, from the Adcinity of the Great Salt Lake. Near the mouth of Dry Creek Canon, east of the northern end of Utah Lake, a white granitic rock fonns a high mount, but I did not notice near our routes any nieta- moqiliic schists which Captaui Stansbur}^ also observed near Salt Lake. In the hills north of Cedar Valley I noticed a small knob of a similar granite, scarcely reaching the sm-face, the stratified rocks near which exhibit strong marks of metamoiphism. The general character of the valley of Utah Lake and Jordan River is in all re- spects like that of the other valleys of the basin, as described above. The mountain range between Utah Lake and Cedar Valley consists of similar strata, apparently of Carboniferous age. In the hills a few miles west of Camp Floyd, I noticed siliceous limestones, sand- stones, and siliceous slates, also shales. By their fossils they are characterized as Lower Carboniferous. (See above under Stratified Rocks.) Similar rocks occurnearOld Camp Floyd, at the north end of Cedar Valley. The stratification seems to indicate 328 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. that the upper portion of Mount Floyd consists of strata which are hig-her in the series, proljably Upper Carboniferous. In this and also the next range west of Rush Valley no igneous rocks were observed, but the dip there, like in all the mountains of the district in general, is variable, and changes frequently within short distances, appar- ently depending upon local concentration of the subterranean forces at different points of these ranges. Cedar Valley and Rush Valley form separate basins. The spur of hills in the latter valley also consists of rocks of the Carboniferous formation, but on the road to General Johnston's Pass, east of Meadow Creek, we pass over low outcrops of sand- stones, which, although tilted at an angle of 45 degrees, present a quite modern ap- pearance, and seem to be a local formation. Still I am doubtful in regard to their age, not having found any fossils. Near the creek I noticed a low outcrop of fine wliite friable sandstone, or rather scarcel}" indurated sand with interstratifications and in-egu- lar secretions of gray, hard, brittle, siliceous rock which looks as if it was hardened from gelatinous silex, and is apparently formed from the sand by influence of alkaline (I) Avatei', and of modern (lacustrine) origin. The mountains west of Rush Valley consist of limestones, &c., like the last ones. The fossils collected in the various passes are mostly corals, and seem to belong to the Lower Carboniferous period. I'he strata in many instances exhibit strong marks of violent dislocations and altering influences, either heat or chemical agencies. Some appear as if crashed into fragments and then recemented into a regular breccia. In Oak Pass, high exposures of an altered sandstone -were noticed, of nearly porphyritic appearance. We next enter Skull Valley, or by the more southern passes, another branch of the Great Salt Lake Desert, separated from the former only by a low sand ridge. A chemical test showed the efflorescences of salt around Willow Spring to the pure chlo- ride of sodium. The next range of moiuitains of considerable extent from north to south, is Colo- nel Thomas's range, of which the Granite Mountain forms the northern j^rolongation. In the intervening country we find some more isolated mountain masses and numerous island mountains. Southwest of Willow Spring the hills are composed of altered sili- ceous limestones and sandstones, with remains of Gasferojwda, Brachiopoda, Corals, and Bryozoa, of Carboniferous age. Further south Igneous Rocks partake in the formations. The central portion of Mount Champlin is composed of the porphyry. No. 181, of the collection, which I have mentioned above (see under Igneous Rocks), and other rocks allied to the trachytic porphyries. Near the base of these mountains I noticed also other rocks, forming dikes and smaller outcrops of perhaps later origin, also vesicular rocks of dark color. All around the mountain, partly covering the igneous rocks, partly as separate, more or less distant, island buttes, stratified rocks were observed, mostly in a highly altered state, limestones, slates, and especially a dark reddish-brown siliceous sand-rock, which at some points attains a quite porphyritic appearance. Tlie McDowell Mountains, further southwest, Avith their characteristic peaks, are nearly altogether composed of eruptive rocks similar to those of Mount Champlin. They exhibit a most interesting transition among themselves, and between extreme types at GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 329 otiier points. Some of tlicm are closely allied to the traclij^tie i)orphynes from Carson River and Eagle Valley, on the east side of the Si(UT;i Nevada; others can scarcely be distinguished from some of Weber River, and others again present quite a peculiar appearance. In this neighborhood the Great Salt Lake and Sevier Lake deserts con- nect with such a scarcely perceptible change of slope, that we are frequently at a loss to tell whether we are in the one or the other. Colonel Thomas's range, at Pass Short-cut, is composed of stratified rocks, proba- bly of Carboniferous age, which are tilted, as well as covered, by an overflow of a trachytic porphja-y of gray color. Some strata are thereby highly altered ; sand- stones have attained a porphyritic appearance, by a beginning secretion of quartz in single crystals, as in a porphyry. Farther to the south, near the pass on our return trail, the igneous rocks prevail, and only a few highlj^-altered limestones were noticed, and some layers, in regard to which I was doubtful whether they were originally eruptive or sedimentary. One of the most common rocks there has a peculiar mod- ern appearance, in consequence of its more loose texture. In a gray matrix it contains a great deal of transparent quartz, very brittle and partly crystallized in perfect double hexagonal i)yramids, also white glassy feldspar and a little black mica. It has some- ^\^hat the appearance of trachytic lava, but is closely allied to the rocks from Mount Champlin. Other varieties have a grayish white or very light pink matrix, containing only few and small crystals of the same minerals, which makes them look vastly dif- ferent ; probably in consequence of a beginning decomposition, or the mode of cool- ing to which they have been subject, they shell off in rounded masses, forming pecu- liar knobs, or, if the inner part has been worn out, cavities of various size. Next follow the House Mountains, which extend from Sevier Lake northward, and are lost in the Salt Lake desert. As far as they have come under my observation, they are entirely composed of stratified rocks, dark-colored siliceous limestones, com- pact sandstones, and slates. Some of them are highly altered. Only a fragment of a TriJohite, apparently of a Carboniferous species, Avas found near Chapin Spring, and the lithological character of the rocks there points to the same age. Near the north end of this chain the remarkable Fish Springs are found, and not far from them, along the foot of the mountains, horizontal strata of a white calcareous maid, in appearance much like chalk, which must have been deposited in the ancient lakes, and to the fonn- ation of which infusoria^ seem to have contributed largely. Near there, I also noticed a water-mark of calcareous tufa lining the mountain-side for a considerable distance. Highly altered stratified rocks also form the main portion, at least, of the hills between this range and the Goshoot Moimtains. The Tots-arrh or Goshoot Mountains are one of the principal ranges of great length and altitude. Their main body consists of stratified rocks, limestones of mostly bluish color, sandstones and slates, which form some of the highest peaks, among them Mount Davis. In the pass from the desert to Pleasant Valley, some fossils of Lower Carboniferous age were found, and also near our camp on the western slope. Many of the strata are strongly altered, sandstones converted into quartzite, &c. Be- sides, we find some metamorphic rocks, mica schists, argillaceous slate, gneiss, and even granite ; but I have not seen any of the porphyritic and other more recent igne- 42 BU 330 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ous rocks. I'loasant Valley, in this range, seems to follow the line of contact between the Carhoniferous and metamorphic rocks. A conglomerate is found in the ])ass above Ked Springs, on the eastern slope. It is mostly composed of more or less ronnded pieces of limestone, imbedded in a more areno-calcareous finer matrix of light reddish color. Its age is doubtful, but as it has ap2)arentl}' been deposited in a depression of older rocks, after the mountains had attained their general configuration, it is probably a comparatively recent deposit. In the Goshoot Mountains a considerable quantity of moistiire is precipitated and retained, feeding numerous springs, which partly sink and re-appear in the adjoining Crosnian Valley, &c. Next follows the Un-go-we-ah range, between Antelope and Stejitoe Valleys, also of great altitude and extent, in ^^'hich stratified Paleozoic as well as plutonic rocks were observed. On the southern road we find on the east side a great thickness of blui.sh gray calcareous .slates and siliceous limestones, and, toward the summit, with them a calcareous conglomerate, and a tracliytic porphyry allied to that from the ]\IcDowell Mountains. On the west side limestones are still more extensively developed, mostly siliceous, and of dark bluish and gi'ay color ; also .slates, and some sandstones. Some of these strata ai*e strongly altered. Near the summit of the pass some fossils "were obtained, indicating the Upper Carboniferous age, Avhile others, from the western portion of the range, seem to be Lower Carboniferous. Near the northern road, the brown dioritic porphyries form the bulk of the mountains, while the stratified rocks, bluish gray siliceous limestones, and sandstones altered into flint rock, are confined to the highest sunuiiit and part of the western slope. We noticed some interesting ifl- stances of the changed appearance of the rocks at the contact between the porph5'ry and stratified rocks. Near our camp, in Spring Valley, in this range, highly peculiar rocks were exposed, which seem to be the result of a later intrusion, partly pitchstones, partly others of a bluish-gray color, subvitreous and easily breaking into subcuboid fragments. They contain numerous light brown secretions of the size of a pea, with a radiating structure, in the center of which frequently a small grain of feldspar can be observed ; they also contain some ciystals of black mica. Higher up toward the siimmit I noticed a local fonnation of conglomeratic rocks composed of igneous ma- terial, and a high knob of porphyry, closely allied to the porphyry from Simpson's Sirring at Mount Champlin. The Mont-tim range, between Steptoe Valley and Butte Valley, is composed of some granite, more recent eruptive masses, and metamorphosed strata, but chiefly of sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic age. Near the northern road we find, on the east side of the mountains, bluish and gray siliceous limestones threaded with veins of cal- careoiis spar, slates, &e., petrographically much like the formations in the Timpanogos Canon, but, as some fossils, Trilohltcs of the geneva .Homaloimtus and rroctas, pi-ove, of Devonian age, or perhaps Upper Silurian. The same again appear near the summit of the pass. Although this is the first point where Devonian strata were noticed, they may occur also farther east, having escaped observation on account of the similarity of their lithological character with that of Carboniferous strata and the scarcity of fos- sils. A considerable thickness of flint-rock and altered sandstone was exhibited in and near Egan Canon,- probably underljing the Devonian limestones, and also strata of GEOLOGICAL REPORT. 331 altered slates, much like roofing-slates. On the west side of the range dioritic and trachytic porphyry prevails ; also pitchstone was found, and scattered knobs of such rocks extend across ]Jutte Valley, on the west side of which the brown poi"phyry is again pron)inent. Near the southern route the range seems to be wholly composed of very compact gray siliceoHs limestones, in which I found no fossils ; but from their similarity to Devonian strata, farther west, I am inclined to consider them coeval. A western spur of the range between the two routes, on the southwest side of Round Valley, is evidently composed of the yellow rocks of Upper Carboniferous age (see below), of which a few doubtful traces were also noticed in the pass to Butte Valley. This valley is closed at the south end by mountains of brown dioritic porphyry, and rocks allied to the pitchstones, forming a spur of a great eruption, which has its center south of Summit Spring, in the next range, and covers a considerable area. On the northern route the divide between Butte Valley and Long Valley is low, composed of porphyritic rocks and light-colored limestones. Part of these are light gray, siliceous, and subcrystalline, or finely crystalliiie ; others are light-yellowish, areno-argillaceous, and have an luieven fracture. They are characterized, by a large number of fossils, as an Upper Carboniferous formation, but differ much from the other strata of that age, as developed farther east. I may refer to what has been said under the head of Stratified Rocks, and to Mr. Sleek's report. AVest of Long Valley we find similar strata, continuing to the summit of the pass to Ruby Valley, where a blackish eruptive rock, which looks basaltic, but is perhaps allied to the greenstones, forms a considerable protrusion. On the west side, Jn Murry Canon, we have again the yel- loAV rocks, but apparently more siliceous and slaty, and less fossiliferous. Their trend and dip are variable, and I did not obtain a section, but the formation must attain a thickness, at least, of several hundred feet. The strata of the spur of hills farther north, in Ruljy Valley, show the same color. A few fossils from the gray limestone of an isolated low hill near the road, more resemble Lower Carboniferous types. On the southern route these light-gray and yellow limestones and slates form the mountains between Butte and Phelps Valleys, north of Summit Spring, south of which they are cut oft' by the porphyries and allied rocks. In the low divide between Phelps and Buell Valleys, and in some hills farther west, similar light-grayish and yel- lowish i-ocks crop out. Some strata there are full of joints of the columns of Crinoidea, and a few fossils from that point are considered by Mr. Meek as more like Lower Car- boniferous forms. Although the lithological character scarcely would indicate such a division, it may perhaps exist. The presence of Devonian strata, a few miles farther west, is favorable to the supposition that these beds occupy a lower jjosition in the Carboniferous series ilian those near Summit Spring. We cross the Humboldt Mountains on the northern route, near their southern extremity, where their great elevation suddenly falls off", and minbr ranges appear in their stead. In this latitude the Humboldt IMountains appear to be made up of strati- fied rocks from their base to the highest summits. I noticed blue and gray siliceous limestones, also flint rock, and a coarse, partly conglomeratic sandstone, perhaps iden- tical with the one in the next range west. These rocks belong probably to the Car- boniferous and older formations. Only a small outcrop of feldspathic rock was observed 332 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. not far from the road. The low ranges farther south, also far beyond our southern route, are formed by the Carboniferous rocks, their yellow color indicating it plainly. In the next mountains, on the west side of Buell Valley, we again find a consid- erable development of siliceous limestones and slates, of mostly bluish-gi-ay color, characterized by their fossils as Devonian. They are overlaid in the pass by heavy masses of a coarse siliceous sandstone, and a conglomerate of rounded siliceous pebbles) mostly of a rather dark color, which seem to occupy the position of the Old Red of the English geologists, between the Devonian and Carboniferous formations. A further proof of this I found near Cho-kup's Pass. Its thickness must be considerable. I observed 300 feet of it in a single exposure. On the west side of the pass eruptive masses protrude, which seem to belong to the basaltic or phonolitic group, and are partly vesicular ; other rocks close by may either be allied to them or highly altered slates. I also noticed some tufa, a sedimentaiy local deposit of fine fragments, or ashe > of eruptive origin. McCarthy's Creek marks the line of contact between these differ- ent rocks. In the same range, some miles north of Cho-kup's Pass, on tlie eastern slope, and again on the west side of the pass, I found a few fossils in gray and bluish limestones. Mr. Meek considers them as Lower Carboniferous. The main body of the range there is composed of siliceous conglomerate, flint rock, and a strongly cemented light-colored or reddish sandstone, which formation attains a thickness of at least several hundred feet, it is most probably an equivalent of the conglomerate farther south, and "Old Red." There we have it overlying Devonian strata, here we find it in connection with Carboniferous rocks. Although the latter are found on the side of the mountain, while the sandstone forms the crest, they seem to occupy a higher geological position- The upheaving forces have exhibited a great local intensity in a direction coinciding with the central line of the ridge. The strata at numerous points stand on the edge, having been tilted up at an angle of 90'', or even more. Thus the originally lower sandstones now occupy the most elevated position in the center. No igneous rocks were noticed near the pass, but they appear to form some hills farther north. The permanent character of some springs, and the large volume of water, in Pah- hun-nu-pe Valley seems to be, partly at least, the result of the upthrusting of these sandstones and other older strata, which hold a highly elevated position in the neigh- boring Humboldt and Cooper Mountains, and there, at their outcrops, take up a con- siderable quantity of water from the melting snows and summer rains; while it is ]iartly due to the circumstance that this valley receives the drainage of the extensive Kobah Valley. The rocks in Sw;dlow Canon, between Pah-hun-mt-pe and Kobah Valle}'s, are dark-gray and blue impure limestones, with numeroiis small veins of dolomite, also slates and flinty sandstones. They are characterized by their fossils as Devonian (see Mr. Meek's report). This canon has apparently been eroded by the discharge of the water from Kobah Valley into the less elevated Pah-hun-nu-pe Valley. The former has thus been gradually drained of its lake, the relics of which arc still found, not only as marked benches and some tufaceous strata, but as a considerable succes- sion of horizontal layers of shaly sandstones and arenaceous shales, partly calcareous. GEOLOGICAL EEPOIIT. 333 of gray, yellowish, reddish, and white colors, which form liigh escarpments at the southwest foot of the island mountain north of Clay Creek, Mount Lowry. The strata comprising this mountain and the one north from there, near Willow Creek, are mostly limestones of light-gray color, subcrystalline and very compact. Oidy a few imperfect fossils were noticed in them, some trocldform univalves, and some coralline forms, which, according to Mr. Meek, appear to be similar to LoM'er Silurian species from the Western States. The dip of these strata also seems to indicate that they occupy a lower geological horizon than those of Swallow Canon, and both evi- dences, although not conclusive in themselves, lead me to consider these strata as most probably Silurian. Crossing Pah-hun-nu-pe Valley on the northern road, we find on its west side cliffs of a light-gray, granular, crystalline, magnesian limestone, an agglomeration of small rhomboidal crystals of dolomite, altogether presenting the appearance of many of the Lower Silurian magnesian limestones of Missouri, especially the third magne- sian limestone of Professor Swallow. This series is several hundi-ed feet thick, and succeeded by lower strata of a similar character, but more finely crystalline and sub- crystalline, like other varieties of the third magnesian limestone. They are imderlaid by several hundred feet of coarse sandstones and siliceous conglomerates, which woidd also correspond to a sandstone in the Missouri series, and perhaps be an equivalent of the Potsdam sandstone of New York. I cannot think that tliis sandstone and conglom- erate should con-espond to those in Cho-kup's Pass of the age of the Old Red, although their appearance is similar; then the limestones would be of Carboniferous age, but they are quite unlike any I have observed in that series. An igneous jirotrusion, a spur of Mount Cooper, intercepts the further regular suc- cession of the strata. Near by some variegated and altered slates crop out. At some points farther west in Kobah Valley small exposures of similar light-colored silico-mag- nesian limestones were noticed. Near the north end of Kobah Valley I found some rock resembling serpentine and other more compact basaltic (?) knobs. The mountains around the western part of Kobah Valley are composed of igneous rocks, mostly porphyries, which seem to hold a position between the dioritic and the trachytic group, and differ much among themselves ; some of them present a peculiar appeai-ance, and may be later intrusions. Others appear to be allied to the phonolites.* Only near the southwest end of the val- ley, again some few stratified rocks of doubtful age were observed, sandstones and altered slates, and some greenish flinty siliceous strata, which have nearly lost the marks of their sedimentary origin, by the immediate contact with the igneous ])rotru- sions. The Pe-er-re-ah range is another of the principal chains. Near our trail it is composed of granite, more recent eruptive, and some highly altered stratified rocks. At the mouth of Simpson's Canon flint-rock and black and variegated slates were noticed; a little farther on, white, coarse-grained granite, and some more finely-grained ' One specimen from Wons-in-daiume (Autulope) Creek, of whitish color and tufaliko appearance, resembles very closely specimens from the island of Iscliia, near Naples, from the extinct volcano Epomoo, the fnnctions of which are now discharged by Vesuvius. Those specimens are a scoriaceous lava, altered by vapors of hydrochloric acid, which escape from the crater, and have converted the lava partly into kaolin. 334 EXPLOKATIONS ACEOSS THE GEEAT BASIN OP UTAH. porpliyritlc varieties. At the upper end of the cufioii more slates, &c., were observed, Ijut the liills are mostly covered over, and but few rocks exposed. Near the summit I foinid a trachytic porphyry with a feldspathic matrix and crystals of glassy feldspar and mica, and near by other similar rocks form successive oveiflows or protrusions, presenting the appearance of stratification. Some of them reminded me distantly of the rocks of Spring Valley in the Un-go-we-ah range, others of the rocks in Kobah Valley, and one is allied to the pitch-stones. The summit and west side of the pass are composed of granite, and only lower down on the west side some more flint-rock occurs. Where we struck Reese's River, horizontal strata of modern origin were noticed, which must have been formed as lacustrine deposits, partly conglomeratic, partly fine- grained calcareous sandstones, and arenaceous limestones. In the range west of Reese's River, porphyries are largely developed, of mostly light-reddish color, and with crystals of glassy (?) feldspar and mica, and partly of quartz. With thehi I found some highly altered stratified rocks, especially fiint-rock, and a sandstone which liad become quite porphyritic by the secretion of crystalline particles of the silex; also some black pitch-stone. Next follows the Se-day-e range, with subordinate chains. Where it has come under my observation, its main body is nearly altogether composed of plutonic masses, granite, porphyritic rocks, pitch-stones, &c. White granite was found in the center of tlie range, near the head of Gibraltar Canon. Trachytic, and, perhaps, some dioritic porphyries are most largely developed. Their color is generally ])ink or reddish- brown ; others are wliitish. Those of tlie latter, at the mouth of Putnam Canon, exhibit an imperfectly columnar structure. Near the eastern foot of the mountains I noticed various rocks which have evidently erupted at a somewhat later period. There are black and bi'own pitch-stones, at one place forming a dike, split up by numerous fissures into tabular pieces with glazed surfaces and highly brittle inside; other masses appear as a mixture of the poii)hyry and pitch-stone, and similar to some lavas ; and a large vein is filled with a trachyte which seems to be closely allied to the rock from Weber River, No. 153 of the collection, but contains less quartz and mica. Brown porphyiy prevails on the west side, and also in the more western spurs; only in the canons some local tuf\xceous sediments were observed, and on Edward Creek a flinty conglomerate and some few other ledges of metamorphosed rocks. In the park below the Gate of Gibraltar we find extensive deposits of a mostly pure white tufa, apparently formed in a lake which has been drained by the erosion of the Middle Gate. These sediments are fonned of finely comminuted trachytic rocks, pumice, &c. ; and the siliceous shells of Infusoria may have largely contributed to it. They scarcely contain traces of lime. They are apparently identical with those observed by Dr. Newberry on the upper Pitt River, Klamath Lake, &c., and called by him infusorial marls, of which he remarks (Pacific Railroad Report, vol. vii, p. 39), that they have a striking resemblance to pulverized pumice, and have doubtless been formed of similar material. I found the same on Carson River, east of Eagle Val- ley, where, however, they contain a few per cent, of lime; but a similar formation from the Salt Lake Desert, near Fish Springs, is a calcareous marl. In the Middle and Lower Gates I noticed porphyry, flint-rock, and signs of other (JEOLOUICAL KEPORT. 335 liiglily altcroil stratified vocks. Still farther on, a prominent white mountain south of the road was fVmnd to consist of purely white suherystalline and finely crystalline dolomite, evidently altered from a dark-gra}' magnesiau limestone which still forms part of the mountain. The contact between the two modifications exhibits no straight line, but follows irregularly secondary fissures. I'he stratification is obliterated by the metamorphosis. No fossils were noticed. (!lose 1))' some slates crop out, and a dike of a greenish decomposed igneous ri>ck. Gibraltar Creek furnishes a sti-iking example of the repeated sinking and re-ap- pearing of the water, modified in its qualities by the strata which it percolates. At our camping-place in the Middle Gate the water was insufficient, and tasted disagree- ably of clay, while lower down it is purified again by the sand. I am confident that it would be easy not only to seciire a permanent supply at that Gate, but that a much better water could be obtained, at least during the greatest part of the summer, sev- eral miles lower down, and that thus the long waterless distance to Carson Lake could be much shortened. The Black Mountains form only a comparatively low ridge east of Carson Lake, and are composed of igneous and metamorphosed rocks. The former, as exjiosed on the eastern slope, are unlike any of the porphj'ritic rocks, and appear as local jirotru- sions, probably of later date. On the w^est side, dark-colored vesicular rocks were found in considerable quantity, and above them altered clay slate, gneiss, and com- l)act quartz forming- a vein or stratum. Farther north the mountains have a stratified a])pearance, [)artly caused merely by horizontal water-marks, and the rocks are black, gray, red, scoriated, vesicular, &c. Alkali Valley, formerly a branch of Carson Lake, is still mostly a miry salt flat, with a great deal of loose drift-sand on the surrounding beach and benches, especially on the east side. Drift-sand also covers the greatest part of the hilly country south and west of Carson Lake, as far as the bend of Carson River. In that district rocks prevail similar to those of the Black Mountains. Near the lake we find scoriaceous vesicular out- crops of dark gray and red color and igneous origin, and, lining the hills, a great deal of calcareous tufa, in places enveloping numerous particles of the red rock, and then readily mistaken as such; also, considerable of a sedimentary rock of white color, mostly composed of pumice and other igneous material, and allied to the volcanic tufas. Rocks of the basalt or greenstone groiqi, partly vesicular, were also observed at vaiious points between the lake and the bend of Carson River, and along Walker River, to the exclusion of other igneous rocks, except some in the main divide between the two rivers, which are distantly related to the trachytic porjohji-ies.* One speci- men of the latter has a loose poroiis texture, and contains in the light-gray feldspathic matrix crystals of glassy (?) feldspar and brown mica. Others contain hornblende instead of the mica, esjiecially higher up on Carson River, and appear more allied to those from Weber River. • I do not tbiuk that there are any rocks along our line of snrvey which can properly be called basalt. Several of the basaltic rocks in the neighborhood of Carson Eiver and Carson Lake resemble more the lavas from Monte Somma and Vesuvius, one especially a lava which erupted as late as 1806, and presents a scoriaceous surface upon which small green crystallizations can be recognized only when the rock has begun to decompose. 336 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. Highly altered sandstone was noticed at a few points ; and some rocks near the hend of Walker River, and near the hot spring in that vicinity which has been de- scribed in a former paragraph, maj' be either ernptive or metamorphic. Gneiss and qnartz-rock were observed between Walker and Carsmi Rivers, not far from where we struck the latter. Near the bend of Carson River we also find the vunnistakable marks of a former lake, in numerous water-marks and the calcareoiis tufa on the sides of" hills. Thence up Carson River, the whole formation is plutonic. The rocks are mostly trachytic porphyries, similar to some from the McDowell Mountains, with a flesh -colored or brown feldspathic matrix, and crystals of glassy feldspar, mica, and quartz; others form a transition to the dioritic porphjries and the Weber Ri>'er group, containing hornblende, mica, &c ; they altogether merge into each other, and may be considered as a connecting link between the two grou})s. Still others are black and vesicular, and conglomeratic tufes occur likewise. I have already mentioned Gold Carion, and the infusorial tufas below P^agle Valley. This and Carson Valley are two of the long series of valleys which stretch along the foot of the Sierra Nevada, and in which the eye of the weary traveler is, for the iirst time, relieved by the aspect of green meadows and cultivated fields. The eastern slope of the Sien'a Nevada, along Eagle and Carson Valleys, is mostly covered by metamorphic strata, siliceous and argillaceous slates of various description, and some siliceous conglomerate; but its main bodj- there is composed of white granitic rocks, which were observed on the Daggett trail, in Lake Valle}', and Johnston's Pass. (See under Igneous Rocks.) Carson River Cailon is chiefly cut tlu'ough these white, coarse, crystalline granites. There the contrast of their precipitous, resplendent walls, split up into cul)oid blocks, like Cyclopean mason-work, and the green foliage, the majestic trees, and foaming mountain-torrent, form an imposing, I might say sublime, scenerv not soon eflfiiced from the memorv of the beholder. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX J. REPORT PALJIOITOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS OF THE EXPEDITION. F. B. MEEK, Paleontologist. 43BXJ Note by the ATtthor. — As may bo seen by tlic date of the accoinpauying letter to Captain Simpson, tliis report was ]irepfiieil as far back as 18G(t. So many years bad, therefore, passed away without any apparent probability of its publication, that I had long since abandoned all expecta- tion of ever seeing it publisheJ D I X J UKVOVyV ON TIIK I'AL.EONTOLOGICAL COLLlXrilONS OK 'I'lIK SlIlv'VF.V. By F. B. Mkkk. Washington Oity, J). ('., lUai/ 2o, I.SIJO. Capt. .J. H. Simpson, Topofiraphkal Engineers, U. S. A.: Deak Sir : In the following report, on the fossils collected Ijy j\Ir. Henr}- Kngle- niann, the zealons geologist of the party under your eoniniand dni-ing youi- late ex- plorations in the far West, yon will find figures and descrijrtions of such new species as are in a condition to he fully characterized. Plgures are also given of a few other well-known forms, which ai'e especially interesting in consequence of the fact that they have not hitherto been found at such remote western localities. In addition to these, the ct)llection contains many specimens too imperfect to be satisfactorily identi- fied with known species, or described as new, though (piite a, nimdjer of them are doubtless new to science. As a large jiroportion of the collection is from a region of country in regard to the geology of which little is known, I have thought a full list of all the fossils brought in, with references to the localities at which they occur, would be interesting to scientific readers, as well as useful to future explorers. In making out this cata- logue, Avhere only generic names could be given, a brief description of some of the more marked characters of the species has, in several instances, been added. The fossils contained in the collection give evidence of the existence along the line of survey of rocks belonging to the Devonian, Carboniferous, Permian, Cretace- ous, Jurassic, and Tertiary epochs.* Those of Devonian age were collected in the region of Humboldt Mountains, near the middle of the Great Salt Lake Basin, at the following points: Latitude, 39° 45' north, longitude, 114° 45' west; latitude, 39° 33' north, longitude, 115° 58' west; and latitude, 39° 30' north, longitude, 115° 36' west. The specimens obtained at the first of tliese localities are in slabs of hard dark- bluish limestone, and consist of fragments of Trilobites belonging apparently to the genera Homalonofus and Proetus. These may possibly be Upper Silunan species, but they have so much the appearance, so far as can be determined, of forms occuning in * Evidence of the existeace of Triassic rocks at some places along the line of snrvcy was also observed. It is however, altogether of a stratigraphical and lithological character, no organic remains having been observed in these beds. (See a communication by Mr. Eugelmanu and the writer, Proceedings Academy Natural Science, Philadelphia April, 1«60.) 340 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the Hamilton group of the New York series, that, when taken in connection with the lithological characters of the matrix, they leave a strong impression on the mind that they probably belong to about the same horizon. The fossils found at the other localities mentioned above are, I think, decidedly Devonian types, and also occur in dark-bluish limestone. They consist oi Atryim aspcra, or a closely allied species, A. reticularis, a s\\\&\\Productus, and three or foiir new specie's of Spirifer. As the genus Productus is now generally regarded as not dating back farther than the Devonian system, and neither Atrypa reticidans nor A. aspera ranges up into the Carboniferous, while the species of Splrifer, as well as the small Productus associated with these, are all closely allied to forms characterizing the Hamilton group, the evidence is nearly or qiiite conclusive that the rock from which these fossils were obtained belongs to the Devonian system, and I think it will be found to be nearly on a parallel with the Hamilton group. It is an interesting fact, in case these specimens should really prove to be of the age of the Hamilton series, that at this distant locality they should be found in beds having almost exactly the lithological characters of some of the dark calcareous i)or- tions of that formation in New York; while the fossils of the same age found in the intermediate Western States, generally occur in much lighter-colored strata. It is worthy of note that the localities at which these specimens were obtained are near twelve hundred miles farther westward than such fossils have hitherto lieen found in situ, so far as known to the writer, within the Territory of the United States. It is true that a few fossils, consisting of some Brachiopoda, and others similar to Monotis, collected by Captain Stansbury from shaly arenaceous beds near the North Platte, three or four days' march beyond Fort Laramie, were formei'ly supposed to be of Devonian age;* but it is now known that the outcrop there alluded to consists of Jurassic, and probably some Triassic, strata ; though the fossils were obtained from the former. Some specimens belonging to the genera Spirifer, Conocardium, &c., collected by Mr. H. Engelmann in 3 856, near Medicine Bow Butte (latitude 41°, longitude 106° 30' west), were supposed by Dr. Shumard to be also of Devonian age, but the evidence was not regarded as conclusive, and the fossils were found in an erratic mass, the exact original position of which could not be determined. The specimens provisionally refeiTed to the Lower Carboniferous epoch were collected west of Lake Utah, near Camp Floyd, latitude 40° 13' north, longitude 112° 8' west; and at two or three localities much farther westward, near Humboldt Mountahis, already referred to. Those from the first of these localities occur in a hard, compact, dark-colored siliceous limestone, which I am informed by Mr. Engelmann is rather extensively developed in that region. They are all silicified and not in a con- dition to show very satisfactorily their specific characters, though forms very similar to Orthis Micliilini and Hemipronites crenistria occur among them. There are also, along with these, fragments of Corcds, Spirifer, Athyris, and the spiral axis of a species of Archiimdipora. As the last-mentioned fossil belongs to a genus common in the Lower Carboniferous, and not yet certainly known to range up into the Coal-Meas- ures, and the forms associated with it resemble species occurring in the Lower Carbonif- erous series of the West, while there is an absence of any exclusively Coal-Measure * See Caiitain Stansbury's Report, Great Salt Lake, page 403. HErOKT ON PAL.1<:()NTOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 341 types amoiK>' them, tlie weij^htof evidence is in favor of tlie conclusion that these dark- colored limestones belong to the lower principal division of the great Carboniferous system. The other fossils sup})0sed to be of the same ag-e as those mentioned aljove, are in ))art from a similar dark-colored limestone on the west side of the south l)ranch of Hum- boldt River, latitnde 40° north, longitude Uo'^ .'57' we.st; and from a grayish sulx-ry.stal- line limestone some sixty miles in a southwest direction from the locality just mentioned. The first consist merely of imperfect specimens of I'roductus and Spirifer, none of which sliow enough of their characters to be certainly identified with known species; but, from the position of the beds in which they occur with relation to other rocks herein- after to be noticed, thev woidd seem to be most probably of Lower Carboiiiferous age. A few imperfect specimens collected at various j)laces along the route between Humboldt I\rountains and Camp Floj'd, indicate that nuich of the country is occupied by Carboniferous rocks, though it is not imi)robable Devonian and possibly Silurian deposits may be exposed at several places between these two distant localities, in addi- tion to that already mentioned at which fragments of Trilohifcs were found.* The specimens I have referred to the Upper Carboniferous epoch are in part from dark shnly beds in Timpanogos Canon east of Lake Utah, latitude 42° 22' north, longitude 111° 38' west; and from exten.sive exposures of light-yellowish gray, more or less argil- laceous, and arenaceous subcrystalline limestones, forming mountain chains between longitude 115° and 115° 30' west, latitude 40° 10' and latitude 39° 20' north. Those from the dark shaly beds at the first of these localities consist of Spirifer, Productus, Athi/ris, and fragments of a L(pido(k'ndro», none of which are known to be identical with described species, but from their general resemblance to Coal-j\Ieasure foi-ms, and the nature of the matrix, we may infer Avith some degree of confidence that they belong to that epoch. The collections from the yellowish limestone series alhuled to above, contain sjjeci- mens of CJionetes, Productus, Spirifer, Afhi/ris, Pectcn, Nautilus, &c., the species being for the most part new, and also distinct from those found iji the dark shaly beds at Timpanogos Canon. One of Spirifer, however, seems to be identical w\t\\ S. cameratus, Morton, or closely allied to it, and one of Athyris is undistinguishable from A. nuhtiJita, Hall (sp.); while the CJionetes is quite similar to C. Verneuiliaiia, Norwood & Pratten. From the presence of these Coal-Measure types, and the absence of any well-marked Lower Carboniferous species among the collections from this rock, I am led to refer it, at least provisionally, to the upper division of the Carboniferous system. Specimens from deposits of the age of the Coal-Measures were collected fi-om lime- stones on the North Platte, fifteen miles above Fort Laramie, and at several places in Eastern Kansas. The occurrence of rocks of this ag'e at these localities is now' so well known, however, as to require no especial notice hei'e. * There iire lu the coilfctioii from localities a little wist of longitude 11()°, near Humboldt Mouutains, some sjieci- niens of hard, compact, blni.sh and grayish limestones, coutaiuing small siilicylindrical bodies, some of which present the appearance of small ramose sponges or corals similar to species of Chaieivx, common in some of our Lower Silurian rocks of the Western .States; though 1 saw none in n condition to show pores, if they exist. As we now know of the existence of Carboniferous and Devonian formations at these distant western localities, and Silurian fossils. have already been identilied by Dr. Haydeu and the writer from the Black Hills, Dakota, as well as frimi the South Pass (latitmle 103° 30' north, longitude 42'^ 12' west), we may iufer that nearly all the principal mem- bers of the great Paleozoic sejiM will i)robably yet be found along the Rocky Mountains, and in the country between them and the Pacific, 342 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASEN OF UTAH. In some masses of very hard, liglit-g-rayisli, compact, silico-calcareovis rock from Timpanog-os River above the cailoii, there are some imperfect specimens of small avicii- loid shells resembling the Pemnian genus BahcvcU'ui ; also fragments of a coral similar, as far as can be determined, to the genus Fhijllopora of King. From the analogy ot these fossils to Permian forms, and the fact that the bed in which they occur holds a higher stratigraphical position, as I am informed by Mr. Engelmann, than the dark slialy deposits supposed to be of Upper Carboniferous age, farther down the river, there would appear to be some reason for thinking there may be here a representation of the Permian. This supposition would also seem to receive further support from the occurrence at localities not far east of this of Jurassic, and probably Triassic, deposits; still it would be unsafe without more reliable evidence to refer these fossils to the Per- mian epoch. There are in the collection from localities in Eastern Kansas, near Cottonwood Creek, on the north side of Kansas River, several specimens of yellowish magnesian limestone, containing apparently the same species of Pseudomonotis, Aviculopecten, Bakevellia, Mi/alina, &c., known to occur at many places in the eastern part of that Ten•itor^^ in strata that have been referred to the Permian system. As there is, how- ever, in that region a mingling of Upper Carboniferous and Permian types, through a considerable series of beds, it is impossible to determine, from these few specimens, whether the particular outcrops from Avhich they were obtained should be classed with the Permian or the Upper Carboniferous, though they most probably belong to the fonner. The farthest western locality at which specimens were collected indicating the occm-rence of Jurassic rocks is on the east side of the Wahsatch Mountains (lati- tude, 40° 48' north, longitude, 111° 15' west). They .consist of gray, argillaceous, more or less sandy rock, containing fragments of Pecten, Ostrea, and stems of Penta- crinus, which latter agree exactly with those of P. astcriscus, Meek and Hayden, from the Jurassic beds at the Black Hills, Dakota. The strata containing these fossils are associated, as I am informed by Mr. Engelmann, with a series of Jight-colored and reddish sandstones. At Red Buttes, on the North Platte, above Fort Laramie, well-marked Jurassic fossils were also collected, in gray argillaceous sandy beds. They consist of frag- ments of the same Pentacrinus mentioned above, and an Oyster, nearly related to 0- Marshii and Gryphema calceola, Quenstedt, or an allied species, a new species of Pecten, near P. lens* of Sowerby, and BelemnUes densiis, Meek and Hayden. The strata from which these fossils were collected are clearly of the same age as the Jurassic outcroi)s at the southwest base of the Black Hills, and, as at that place, hold a position above a series of red arenaceous deposits containing large quantities of gypsum.! A few fossils of Cretaceous age were found as far west as Bear River, and on * I have, siDce writing the above, described this species under the name Camptnnecten beUhtrlata. tNo fossils have yet been found in these gypsuni-beariug formations, either ou the Platte or at the Black Hills, but owing to the fact that those discovered in the overlying Jurassic strata, at both of lliose localities, are nearly all closely allied to Liassic forms, while similar gypsum-bearing deposits are known to come in above the strata contain- ing Permian types of fossils in Eastern Kansas, it appears [wssible that they may, in part, represent the New Red Sand- stone of the Old World. EEPOllT ON PALiEONTOLOGIOAL COLLECTIONS. 343 several of tlie tributaries of Weber River, east of the Great Salt Lake. They occui- at these localities in whitish and light-yellowish sandstones, and consist of a small Anomia, an Oyster like 0. glabra, Meek and Hayden, and an Inoceranius similar to the western species usually referred to'7. prohlematicus, Schlot. (sp.). Deposits of good brown coal and beds of shale were also seen at some localities, associated with the s.trata containing- the above-mentioned Cretaceous fossils, and appar- entlv dipping at the same angle, so as to leave the -impression, when the outcrops were examined, that they l^eloiig to the same series of strata containing the Cretaceous fossils.* Cretaceous fossils were also collected from near tlie bridge on th(^ North Platte, above Fort Laramie. They are Ostrea congesta, Conrad, two or tln-ee species of Inorr- ranms, with fragments of a small BacuUtes, and occur in gray, soft shaly beds, evidently of the age of No. 2 or 3 of the Upper Missouri Cretace()us series There are, likewise, in the collection a few Cretaceous fossils from near Little Sandy Creek, in Southeastern Nebraska, where rocks of that age were previously known to occur. They are in a whitish limestone matrix, evidently belonging to the horizon of the Niobrara beds, or No. 3 of the Upper Missouri section, and consist of Inoceramns iwohJcmaticus, Schloth. and fragments of a small Bacul'ites. Qiiite a number of specimens in the collection from the Green River country, east of the Wahsatch range of mountains, are of Tertiary age. They evidently came from two formations, as they consist of two distinct groups of fossils, and Mr. Engel- mann infonns me that the more recent series seems not to be conformable in its dip with the older, which was highly inclined at the localities examined. This older series also differs from the other in being clearly an estuary or brackish- water deposit; while the newer, so far as known, contains the remains of only strictly fresh-water mollusks. The older formation mentioned above was seen on Bear River, near the mouth of Sulphur Creek, some 30 miles west of Fort Bridger, and but a few hundi'ed yards distant from the outcrops of brown coal and yellow sandstone with Inoceramns already mentioned. These beds are chiefly dark-colored and grayish, argillaceous shales, Avith coarse, dark and lighter-colored calcareous grits. The fossils found in them belong to the genera TJnio, Corhula, Goniobasis, Viviparus, ?a\d.Bhytophorus ;\ being just such an assemblage as we might expect to find in an estuary or brackish- water deposit. The fossils from this region, figured by Professor Hall in Fremont's report, Plate HI, are fresh- and brackish-water tyj^es, and possibly may be from this horizon. I have always been at a loss, however, to identify, with confidence, the species described in Fremont's report, partly on account of the brevity of the descriptions and the want of more satisfactory illustrations, but also to a great extent owing to the fact that the localities are only given by longitudes and latitudes, which were, at that time, not detei-mined with sufiicient precision to know certainly exactly from which one of several distinct formations the specimens were obtained. At one time I was rather " Since these remarks were written, I have visited this locality, and found the coal-beds there clearly included in the Cretaceous strata mentioned ahove. (See remarks of the writer on this subject in Hayden's Sixth Annual Report United States Geological Survey of the Territories, 1872.) tThe type of the genus Hhytophorua was originally ordered by me to Melampas. 344 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. inclined to think tluit the shell described by Professor Hall, in Fremont's report, under tlie name Cerithium tenerum, might be one of the Bear River species of Goniohasis, and two other shells described by him in the same report, under the names oi Nat leaf occi- (lcntaUs,imd Turbo pal tidina'/ormis, might be the young of a Vivi2)arus found nt the Bear River locality, but on these points it is not possible to arrive at any very satisfactory conclusion until some one can be fortunate enough to be able to make comparisons with Professor Hall's type-specimens. At the time of writing this report, all of the facts known seem to favor the con- clusion that the Bear River fresh-water beds belong to the Lower Tertiary.* The still more modern series mentioned above occupies an extensive area in the Green River country. I am informed by Mr. Engelmann, that it is mainly made up of greenish sandstones and arenaceous shales, witli some calcareous beds, several hundred feet in thickness, in which no organic remains were found. Beneath these beds, how- ever, he discovered light-colored shales and limestones, containing great numbers of fossils belonging to a few species, all of which are fresh- water types. Those collected consist of two new species of Melama, two of Limnca, one of Unio, and three of Planorhis.f In some respe(;ts a part, at least, of these deposits seem to correspond in a general way with those of the Upper Missouri ; that is, they consist of an older series of brackish- water origin (probably in local isolated basins), succeeded by fresh-water formations, extending over nuich wider areas. It is worthy of note, however, that the fossils found in these Utah [and Wyoming] Tertiary formations are all, so far as known, specifieally distinct from those characterizing the Upper Missouri beds, excepting a single sjjecies of Vivijyarus already mentioned (F. Conradi, Meek and Hayden), which is connnon to the Sulphur Creek estuary deposits,! and those of the Upper Missouri, near the mouth of Judith River. Still, it is probable that we have not yet obtained facts enough to be able to determine whether or not these formations correspond in their details with those of the Upper Missouri. From what has been said, it will be seen that all the fossils contained in the col- lection from localities along the line of the survey, in the Great Salt Lake Basin, are from Paleozoic rocks; while all those from Secondary and Tertiary formations were collected from localities east of the Wahsatch range of mountains.§ Very respectfully, yours, &c., F. B. Meek. • Long after the expression of this rather cautions opinion, I intimated that those beds might possibly be Upper Cretaceous rather than Lower Tertiary ; but still felt the want of any positive evidence warranting tliis conclusion. (See Mr. King's Report Geol. Survey of the Fortieth Parallel, III, 4G6.) At a still later date (Hayden's Sixth Annual Report Geol. Survey of the Territories, 4G2, 1873), after having visited the locality, and being forcibly impressed with the fact that these brackish-water Bear River beds are upheaved nearly to a vertical posture, like the marine, decidedly Cretaceous bods at the same place, with the same strike, I was still more strongly impressed with the probability that the former also belong to the Cretaceous. It was my intention at that time to discuss this question more at length, but even before quite closing the page of my remarks in Hayden's Report, JHst»alluded to (which was the last part of the same written), I was suddenly attacked with a severe and dangerous sickness, and merely had a brief note add(Hl, saying that " until some decidedly Cretaceous fossils have been somewhere found in or above these beds, they may be left in the Lower Eocene." The weight of evidence, however, favors the conclusion that they belong at the top of the Cretaceous (November, 1875.) t These seem to belong in part to what has since been called the Green River group (November, 1875). t These are the Bear River beds already mentioned. ^ Some of the facts and conclusions contained in the foregoing remarks were published by the writer, in connec- tion with Mr. II. Engelmann, in the Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila., Ai)ril, 18G0. REPORT ON PAL.EONTOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 345 DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW SPECIES. DEVONIAN FOSSILS. MOLLUSCA. BRACHIOPODA. Gemis PRODUCTUS, Sowerby. Pkoductxjs subaculeatus, Murchisou (?). Piute 1, fig. 3,0, 6, c. Prudiiclna siihacideatits, Murchison (1840), Bull. Soc. Geol. de Fr., XI, 255, pi. ii, tig. 9; and of numerous other later writers. Shell small, siibhemispherical ; hinge scarcely equaling the greatest breadth. Ventral valve regularly convex, not produced in front; beak projecting little beyond the hinge; ears small, flattened, and nearly rectangular at their extremities; surface having scattering spines-bases, and marked by fine lines of growth and obscure concen- tric wrinkles, which latter become obsolete excepting near the beak and on the lateral slopes. Dorsal valve nearly semicircular, distinctly concave in the central and anterior regions, more flattened toward the cardinal border and the lateral extremities of the hinge; surface marked by small concentric wrinkles, and little scattering pits corre- sponding, apparently, to the spines or tubercles of the other valve. Length, 0.52 inch; breadth about 0.57. I am by no means clearly satisfied that this little shell is specifically identical with P. subaculeatus of Murchison, the s})eciinens in the collection being few, and not in a very satisfactory condition for comparison. I do not think, however, that it can be distinguished from specimens that have been refen-ed by high authorities in the Old World to P. suhaculeatus. It nevertheless seems also to be closely allied to New York Hamilton grouji specimens that have been figured under other names. Locality and position. — West side of Buell Valley, latitude 39° 30' north, longitude 115° 36' west. Genus SPIRIFER, Sowerby. Spirifer Utahensis, Meek. Plate 1, fig. 4, a, h, c. Sjnrifci-a Xortaoodi, Meek (July, IBfiO), Proceed. Acad. Niit. Sci. Philad., XII, 308 (not Hall, 18.5G). Spirifrra Utahensis, Meek (November 20, 1860), last page of extra copies of the above paper. Shell rather small, trigonoid-semicircular, wider than long, with greatest breadth on or near the hinge-line. Ventral valve very convex at the umbo, sloping abruptly to the front and sides; beak elevated, rather pointed, and more or less arched over the area, sometimes a little twisted to one side; mesial sinus rather shallow, rounded, and extending to the point of the beak, from which it widens and deepens yery gi'adually 44BU 346 EXPLOKATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. to the front; area triangular, but wider than high, rather distinctly arched; foramen ver}^ narrow, and a])pai-ently entirely open. Dorsal valve con^'ex, but iiuich more de])ressed than the other; mesial fold obscure in the umbonal region, slightly elevated, and roimded at the front. Surface of each valve ornamented by about forty small de^jressed radiating costse, some six or seven of which occupy the mesial sinus of the ventral A^alve, and seven or eight the fold of the dorsal valve. Length, 0.52 inch; breadth (along hinge-line), about 0.60 inch; convexity, 0.42 inch. The costfe are all simple, unless a few of them bifurcate in the mesial sinus or on the fold. They generally converge to the beaks, though a portion of those near the lateral extremities seem lo run out on the hinge before reaching the beaks. None of the specimens are in a condition to have preserved finer surface-markings, if there were any. This shell is of the same type as several species found in rocks of the age of the New York Hamilton group in that and some of the Western States, but seems to be distinct from them all. Locality and position. — Same as last. Spirifer Engelmanni, Meek. Plate 1, fig. 1, a, h, c. Spirifera Engelmanni (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Soi. Pbilad., XII, 308. Shell rather small, semicircular, about twice as wide as long; hinge equaling the greatest breadth, angular at the extremities. Dorsal valve depressed convex; mesial fold rather narrow, but slightly elevated, flattened along the middle, and apparently without plications. Ventral valve very convex in the umbonal region, sloping abruptly to the sides and front; beak pointed, more or less arched; area high, ti'iangular, the hinge side being longer than the lateral slopes, which are usually somewhat angular, generally rather strongly arcuate, or inclined a little backward over the hinge; fora- men very narrow, apparently open to the point of the beak; mesial sinus narrow, shallow, extending to the beak, flattened in the middle, and without plications. Sur- face ornamented by from seven to nine depressed, rounded, simple plications on each side of the fold and sinus. Length of hinge, about 0.66 inch; diameter from hinge to front, 0.39 inch; height of area, 0.26 inch. It is probable the surface was also marked with very fine striae, and possibly granules, as is not uncommon in this section of the genus, but the specimens are not sufficiently well preserved to have retained such delicate ornaments, if they existed. This species is quite similar in size and form to the last, but may be readily dis- tinguished by its much larger and less numerous plications, none of which are defined on the mesial fold, or in the sinus, as in that species. As near as can be determined from a description without figures or measurements, it seems to be also related to aS". fornacula of Hall, from the Hamilton group in Illinois (Report Regents University of New York, 1857, p. 115), but has not more than half as many plications. REPORT ON PAL^ONTOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 347 Named in honor of Mr. Hemy Enyehnjuni, Geologist of Captain Simpson's explor- ing party. Locality and position. — Devonian of Neil's Valley, latitude 3i)° 32', longitude 115° 36'. Si'iRiFER STUIGOSUS, Meek. Plate 1, fig. 5, a, b, c, d. Spirirmi macra, Meek (July, If^liO), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. PUila., 309 (uot Hall, IH.'iG). Spirifir ulrigoHiis, Metsk (18(i0), last page ofoxtia copies of tbo above-cited paper. Shell rather under medium size, siibtrigonal, or subsemicircular, considerably wider than long; hinge-line equaling the gi'eatest width, and terminating in rather salient angles. Dorsal valve convex in the middle, compressed toward the lateral extremities; mesial fold narrow, prominent, and angular, especially near the front. Ventral valve more convex than the other, sloping somewhat abruptly from the umbo to the sides and front; mesial sinus narrow, rather deep, with sloping sides continued to the beak, which is ])ointed and incurved; area of moderate breadth, with well-defined sloping lateral margins, apparently not continued quite to the extremities of the hinge, arched and inclined back over the cardinal margin; foramen triangular, higher than wide. Surface of each valve ornamented by about eighteen to twenty-four moderately distinct more or less bifitrcating phcations, about six or seven of which usually occupy the mesial fold, and five or six the mesial sinus. Length of hinge, about 1.19 inches; diameter from hinge to front, 0.63 inch; height of area, 0.16 inch. The central plication of the ventral valve usually extends along the middle of the sinus nearly or quite to the beak; while the two or three rather smaller ones in the sinus on each side, in most cases, coalesce with those forming the margin of the sinus before reaching the beak. Along the middle of the rather sharp fold of the dorsal valve there is a groove, usually a little larger than those between the other plications, and corresponding to the central plication of the opposite valve. A few of the plica- tions on each side near the mesial sinus and fold sometimes bifurcate once, but the others seem to be all simple. The specimens are not well enough preserved to have retained fine surface-markings, if there were any. This shell is quite unlike all of the other forms from this region, and I know of no very closely allied species from other localities. Locality and position. — Same as last. Genus ATRYPA, Dalman. Atrtpa reticulakis (Lin.), Dalm. Plate 1, fig. (J, a, b. Aiiomia reticularis, Liuna-us (1767), Syst. Nat., ed. sii, vol. 1, 1152 ; and Encyc. Method., pi. 242, fig. 4, a, J, c. For the long list of subsequeut synonyms, with references, &c., see Mr. Davidson's and other extended works on Paheozoic Brachiopoda. Of this widely-distributed species there are quite a number of specimens in the collection from a locality near the south branch of Humboldt River. They are all rather small, and have more the aspect of Upper Silurian than Devonian varieties. As 348 EXPLOEATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. a general thing- they are proportionally a little wider than usual; but they vary in tliis respect, and beyond a doubt belong to this well-known species. I am not aw^are of this shell having been hitherto discovered at any locality within the territory of the United States, so far west by between 1,000 and 1,200 miles. Locality and position. — Same as preceding. Atrtpa aspeea, Sclilotb. Plate 1, fig. 2, a, b. Teichratuliies anper, Scblot. (1813), Miii. Tascbenb., vol. vii, pi. 1, fig. 7. Atrypa (wpera, Dalm. (1)?27), Vet. Acad, baiidl., pi. 4, fig. 3, aud of many others (not J. Sowerby). Atrypa squamosa, J. Sowerby (1840), Geol. Trans., M ser., vol. 5, pi. 57, fig. 1. f Atrypa spinosa, Hall (1H43), Geol. Kept. 4th District New York. The specimens here referred to the above well-known and widely-distriljuted species are very small for that shell, and, being in a rather bad state of ])reservation, cannot be identified Avitli })ositive certainty. From their general appearance and asso- ciates, however, I am led to regard them as probably a A'ariety of that species. It should be explained here, however, that many reliable European authorities regard A. aspera as only a more coarsely-marked variety of the common A. reticularis. Localiti/ and position. — Same as last. CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS. MOLLUSCA. POLYZOA. Genus ARCHIMEDIPORA, D'Orbigny. Archtmedipoea, (t) Plate 1, fig. 11. There are in the collection from the dark-colored limestones composing the hills west of Camp Floyd, a few fragments of one or more species of this curious group of Polifzoa; but as they merely consist of portions of the .spiral axis, it is impossible to make out then* specific characters. They are both dextral and sinistral, quite slender, and make about eight turns in the space of an inch. No species of this genus has hitherto been found in the region of the Rocky Mount- ains, so far as known to the writer. Several species occur in the LoAver Carboniferous series of the Western States; though I believe we have yet no well-authenticated instances of the occuiTence of these forms in the Coal-Measure. Note. — Up to this time (November, 1875), I have seen no other specimens of this genus from the Rocky Mountain region. BEACHIOPODA. Genus CHONETES, Fischer. Chonetes Vernexiiliana, var. Utahensis. Plate 2, fig. 2, a, b, c. Chonetes VerneitiViana, Norwood and Pratten (18.53), Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pbila., Ill, 1, pi. ii, fig. 6. This little Chonetes is much like C. Verneuiliana of Norwood and Pratten ; from the typical fonn of which, however, it differs in having a much broader and more rounded REPORT ON PALiEONTOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 349 mesial sinus in the ventral valve, wliich sinus is also bounded by more angular and more diverging ridges than we usually see in C. Vernemliana. Our Utah shell also seems to be more extended on the hinge-line, and has more sinuous lateral margins. Its strire are exceedingly fine, closely arranged, and appear to increase both by intercala- tion and division. None of the specimens collected show very clearly the number of spines on the hinge-margin, though there appear to be about five on each side of the beak. No specimens of the dorsal valve were obtained. I am inclined to think it will be found specifically distinct from C. Verneuiliana. Length of hinge, 0.45 inch; diameter from hinge to front, 0.22 inch; convexity of ventral valve, 0.12 inch. LocaUty and position. — Near Humboldt Mountains, latitude 39° 57', longitude 115° 10'. Genus PRODUCTUS, Sowerby. Productus semistriatus. Meek. Plateljfig. 7 a, 6. P. semistriatus, Meek (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. N,at. Sci., Phil.ad., xii, ^09. Shell of medium size, greatest breadth on the hinge-line, which is nearly twice the length, measuring from the hinge to the anterior curve. Dorsal valve unknown- Veutral valve vcri/ gibbous, extremely arched, and greatly produced in front ; some- times provided with an obscure, very shallow mesial sinus, which never extends to the beak ; ears triangular, strongly vaulted, extended nearly at right angles to the vertical sides of the elevated visceral arch, from which they are each separated by an oblique, undefined sulcus ; beak very convex, distinctly incurved, and extended a little beyond the hinge ; surface of the visceral region marked by small, obscure concentric wrinkles, which are crossed by numerous, more or less bifurcating strife ; anterior half smooth, or only marked by fine lines of growth ; spines rather long, erect, and scattering. Length of hinge, 1.19 inches; diameter fi'om hinge to anterior cui've, 0.72 inch; length from the beak to the anterior margin of the ventral valve, measuring over its cm-ve, 2.14 inches. The concentric wrinkles are most distinct on the lateral slopes of the visceral arch, and seem to extend upon the ears. When the radiating strife axe well defined, they form", with these wrinkles, a more or less distinct reticulate style of ornamenta- tion, over the visceral half of the shell. The radiating stria; are generally rather ob- scure, and number about ten in the space of 0.50 inch. This species belongs to the group Semireticulatl of Koninck ; its most marked pecidiarities are its nan-ow, strongly arcuate form, produced anterior, and the entii'e absence of radiating striae over the whole of the ventral valve, excepting the visceral half These characters will serve to distinguish it from all the other forms resembling it in other respects, yet known to the wi'iter. Locality and position. — Timpanogos Canon, latitude 40° 22', longitude 111° 38'; in a dark, argillaceous rock, probably of the age of the Coal-Measures. S60 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Productus multisteiatus, Meek. Plate 1, fig. 8, a, b. I'rudiicliis miiUiatriata, Meek, (Jnl.v, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci., Pbilad., xii, 309. Shell above mediiiiu size, breadth nearly double the length, from the hinge direct to the anterior slope ; hinge-line longer than the breadth of the shell in front of it ; ears moderately large, triangular, distinctly vaulted, and standing nearly at right angles to the swell of the larger valve. Ventral valve extremely veutricose, strongly arched, and provided with a broad, deep mesial sinus, extending from the beak to the front ; beak rather small, compressed, and projecting little beyond the hinge. Dorsal valve deeply concave, provided with three broad, obscure radiating prominences, one of which coiTCsponds to the mesial sinus of the other valve, and the other two radiate to the lateral margins in front of the ears. Surface of both valves marked by numer- oiis very fine, obscure, radiating stripe, and destitute of spines, excepting about three near the extremity of each ear, and a few on the anterior slope of the ventral valve. Length of hinge, near 1.77 inches; length from hinge to anterior slope, 1 inch; greatest breadth in front of the hinge, 1.48 inches None of the specimens show concentric lines or wrinkles, but as they are all a little worn, there may have been very fine marks of growth. The radiating striae are small, very regular, and number about ten to twelve in . the space of 0.20 inch ; they appear to increase chiefly by intercalation. Tlie swell of the arched jjortion of ventral valve is very prominent, and has, in consequence of the deep mesial sinus, a more or less distinct bilobate appearance ; while the lateral slopes are very abrupt, and its anterior and lateral margins considerably produced. Judging from the few remaining bases of spines on the ventral valve, they seem to have been strong and erect. Localitij and position. — Yellowish limestone series, east side of Long Valley, lati- tude 39° 57' north, longitude 115° 10' west, where it is quite common; probably Upper Carboniferous. Genus ATHYRIS, McCoy. Athyris subtiltta, Hall (sp.). Plate 2, fig. 4, a, b. Terebraltila subWita, Hall (18.''>'2), Staiisliurj's Kept. Espl. Great Salt Lake, 4, pi. 1, a, b, and 2, a, b. Terebratula t sitbtilita, Davidson (1857), Monogr. Urit. Carb. Brach., 18, pi. ii, figs. 2! and 22.— Marcou (1858), Geol. N Am. ,.52, pi. vi. HpirUjera aiibtilila, Meek and Ha.vdeu (1859), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci.Pkilad., IX, 20. Athyris subtilita, Newberry (1861), Ives's Colorado Report, 126.— Davidson (186:?), Briich. of S. India, pi. \x, fig. 7.— Salter, (1861), Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc. Lond., XVII, p!. iv, fig. 4, a, 6.— Meek (1872), Paleont. E. Nebraska li more distinct, and developed on the whorls of the spire as well as on the last volution. These costse also in the species under consideration differ in terminating in rounded j)rominences, while upper ends of the French species seem to be flattened horizontally, and its revohnng lines are much more numerous than those of our species. Long after writing the above, I had an opportunity to examine hundreds of speci- mens of this shell, and in a very few examples I succeeded in seeing the apertm-e and columella very clearly. The inner lip is more thickened, and the margin at its base more effuse, and the aperture more angular there than as shown in the figure of the imperfect specimen represented by our fig. 6 h, plate v. I have had to establish a new genus for its reception, as it is certainly not a Melania, nor a Tiara, to which latter I at one time believed it might belong. Locality and position. — Same as foregoing. Limn-s;a nitidula, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 14. Melania? nitidula, Meek (July, ISGO), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., 314. Shell subovate; spire conical, moderately elevated; volutions about six and a half, rounded-convex, increasing rather gradually from the a^^ex; suture well defined; 364 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. aperture subovate, narrowly rounded below and angular above, scarcely equaling half the entire leng-th of the shell ; surface marked by fine obscure lines of gi-owth. Length, 0.40 inch; breadth, 0.20 inch; apical angle convex, divergence about 40°. This is a neat little shell, quite unlike any other species knowni to me from the Bear River beds. In several respects, it resembles some recent species, but it still dif- fers too clearly to be confounded with any of them, even if its geological position did not preclude its identification with any existing species. The specimens do not show the columella very clearly, and I have not been able to see on it the characteristic fold of Limncsa quite satisfactorily; but, on re-examination, I am more inclined to believe that it belongs to that genus than to an;^ of the Melanian groups. Locality and position. — Bear River fresh-water beds, at mouth of Sulphur Creek, Wyoming. Genus RHYTOPHORUS. Rhytophoeus priscus, Meek. Plate ,% fig. 4, a, b. Melampus priscus. Meek (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 315. Bhijtophorus priscus, Meek (1872), in Hay den's Second Ann. Rep. U. S. Geol. Survey of the Territories, 399. Shell oval, moderately thick; spii-e depressed-conical; whorls about five, convex or subangular, last one comparatively large, shouldered above, and tapering below the middle; suture well defined; surface marked by rather obscure lines of growth, and small, regular, vertical, or slightly oblique folds, which are distinct on the spire and the upper part of the body, but obsolete below; aperture naiTow, angular above, and nar- rowly rounded below; oiiter lip apparently sharp, and without teeth or crenulations within; columella provided with one rather strong oblique fold below, and a much smaller less oblique one about half-way up the aperture. Length, near 0.77 inch; breadth, 0.50 inch; apical angle nearly regular, diverg- ence about 80°. This shell is very unlike any other fossil yet known in any of the fresh-water or estuary deposits of the West or Northwest, and difi'ers materially from any recent species of which I have any knowledge. Since writing the above, I have proposed a new genus, Rhytopliorus, for its reception. Locality and position. — Fresh- water or estuary beds on Bear River, near moutK of Sulphur Creek, latitude 41° 12' north, longitude 110° 52' west; probably latest Cre- taceous. TERTIARY FOSSILS. MOLLUSCA. LAMELLIBRANCHIATA. Genus UNIO, Retzius. Unio Hatdeni, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 11, a, 6. Unio Haydeni (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 312. Shell under medium size, subeUiptical, rather thin, moderately convex; extremities more or less regularly rounded, the posterior margin being sometimes obliquely subtrun- REPORT ON PAL^ONTOLOGIOAL COLLECTIONS. 365 cated above, and more narrowly rounded below, than tlie other; basal border semi- elliptical in outline; dorsal side neai-ly straight along the middle; beaks very small, depressed nearly to a level with the dorsal margin, not eroded, and apparently without wrinkles, located about half-way between the middle and the anterior end; posterior umbonal slopes rather prominently rounded; surface smooth, or only showing obscure marks of growth. Length, 1.65 inches; height, 1 inch; convexity, 0.60 inch. The specimens of this species in the collection are not in a condition to show the hinge, though some casts of the interior retain impressions of tlie lateral teeth, which are comparatively long and straight. These casts also show the muscular impressions to be moderately deep, and the cavity of the beaks rather shallow. In size and form, this species resembles Unio niicaUs, Meek and Hayden, from near the Black Hills, Nebraska; but its beaks are less elevated, and not so gibbous; they also appear never to possess the small concentric winnkles characterizing those of that species; and it seems likewise to be a thinner shell than U. nucalis. Some varieties of it resemble Ilya teUinoides, Hall (Fi-(jmont's Rept, 307, plate 3, fig. 1), which is doubt- less also a Unio; but they always differ from the figure cited in having less elevated beaks, and in being proportionally bi'oader posteriorly. Named in honor of Dr. F. V. Hayden, who has brovight many specimens of the species from the Far West. It seems to come from a formation that Dr. Hayden has called the Bridger groiip. Locality and position. — Fresh-water Tertiary beds, near Fort Bridger, and south of there, at the base of Uintah Mountains, latitude 41° 40' north, longitude 110° 10' west. Genus GONIOBASIS, Lea. GoNiOBASis Sempsoni, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 1, a, 6, c, d, c MeUnia Simpsoni, Meek (July, 18G0), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 313. Shell elongate-conical; spire attenuated and jjointed; vohitions about ten, flattened or more or less convex, increasing gradually in size, last one rounded below; suture sometimes linear, in other instances more strongly defined, in consequence of the greater convexity of the whorls; surface marked by fine lines of growth, and small, slig-litly-arched, vertical folds, which vary in size and regularity on different specimens, and are crossed by small, obscure, thread-like revolving Hues; aperture ovate; colu- mella moderately sinuous below; lip somewhat retreating above, and prominent below the middle. Lengtli, 0.78 inch; breadth, 0.30 inch; apical angle nearly or quite regular, diver- gence about 26°. The surface-markings of this species vary considerably on different indi\aduals. The small vei-tical folds are usually quite obscure or wanting on the lower volutions, but sometimes they are well defined even on the body -whorl; while in other instances they become nearly or quite obsolete on all parts of the shell. The fine thread-like re- volving lines are generally equidistant, and number about seven to ten on each whorl of the spire. When well defined, they sometimes impart a slightly nodose character to the folds, particularly near the middle of each whorl. Veiy often these revolving lines, 366 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. like the vertical folds, are obscure or quite obsolete, while on other specimens they are distinctly defined on all the volutions. In most cases, the whorls are very nearly flat, but those of other individuals are more convex. It is possible that these two forms may belong to distinct species, but there are so many intermediate gradations in this respect that I am inclined to regard them as merely varieties of one species. There are several quite similar forms among our recent Melanians, such for in- stance as Goniohasis comma, Conrad, and G. afJileta of Anthony, from which, however, this species will be readily distinguished by obvious characters. The specific name is given in honor of Capt. J. H. Simpson, Topographical En- gineers, United States Ai'my, commander of Utah Exploring Expeditions, &c. I am in doubt in regai'd to the relations of this shell to one of the forms described by Professor Hall in Fremont's Report. Indeed, from first to last, I have had, as it were, to grope in the dark in regard to the fresh-Avater fossils described in that report, on account of the bre^aty of the descriptions and unsatisfactory figures, together with the uncertainty of the exact localities from which they were obtained. Locality and ^yosition. — Later Tertiary beds at Ham's Fork, northeast of Fort Bridger, latitude 41° 40' north, longitude 110° 10' west. Probably Miocene. GoNiOBASis ARCTA, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 5. MeUnia arcfa. Meek (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 314. Shell rather small, very slender, terete; volutions about twelve, flattened-convex, increasing very gradually from the apex; sutin-e distinctly defined; surface showing an exceedingly slight tendency to develop moderately broad, rather distant, vertical folds, mth faint traces of small revolving striae ; aperture ovate. Length, 0.56 inch; breadth, 0.17 inch; apical angle regular, divergence 15°. This shell I now rather regard as only a slender variety of the last-described spe- cies ; but it differs so much from all the specimens I have seen certainly belonging to that variable shell, that, with the collections at hand for comparison, this cannot be clearly demonstrated. It is as much as one-third to one-half narrower, and has two or three whorls more than well-marked specimens of M. Simpsoni of its own length; while its whorls difter in being flattened more obliquely above. The lower part of each whorl rounds abruptly into the suture below, so that the most prominent part is generally just above the sutm-e. Tliis prominence is also con- tinued around the middle of the body-whorl. Locality and position. — Same as last. Genus PLANORBIS, Miiller. Planorbis spectabilis, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 7, «, Zi, c, d. Planorhis speclahilvi, Meek (July, 18G0), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, .314. Shell large, moderately compressed; upper side shghtly convex, sometimes a lit- tle concave in the middle; periphery rather narrowly rounded below the middle; vo- lutions five and a half, increasing gradually in size, wider than high, depressed-convex, and sloping a little outward above, distinctly convex below; about one-half of each REPOET ON PAL^ONTOLOGIOAL COLLECTIONS. 367 inner whorl on the under side and less than one-foiirtli above embraced by each suc- ceeding- turn; umbilicus rather deep, and one-third wider than the outer whorl; surface and aperture unknown. Greatest breadth, 1.19 inches; height, 0.25 inch. This is a fine large species that seems to be quite abundant. It is often found much distorted by pressiu-e, and in this way presents a great diversity of fonus and appearances. It resembles several European Eocene and other Teiliary fom:is ; but, so far as I have been able to make comparisons, it seems to be distinct fi'om them all. Locality and position. — Ham's Fork, in Southwestern Wyoming ; from beds now (1875) known as the Green River group. Planokbis spectabilis, var. Utahensis, Meek. Plate 5, tig. 8, a, b, c. Planorbis Utahensis, Meek (1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pbilad., XII, :il4. This form differs from the typical P. spectahilis in having its volutions, and indeed the whole shell, more depressed, and its periphery more narrowly rounded; while its aperture is proportionally narrower and more oblique. Its volutions also seem to increase more rapidly in breadth. These differences are quite well enough marked to distinguish it specifically, if we could be entirely sui'e that they are not, partly at least, due to accidental distortion. The type-specimens have evidently been a little depressed by accidental pressure, but still seem to have been naturally moi'e depressed. For the present, I have concluded to view this form as a variety of P. spectahilis. Locality and position. — Same as last. LiMN^A VETtrsTA, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 3, a, h. Limncea vetusta, Meek (July, 1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 314. Shell elongate-subovate ; spire rather slender and pointed; volutions five and a half to six, compressed or moderately convex; suture well defined; surface nearly smooth, with traces of fine lines of growth, scarcely visible without the aid of a lens; aperture narrow-ovate, apparently rather narrowly rounded below, and acutely angu- lar above, equaling about half the entire length of the shell; columella with a small, comparatively sti-aight, fold. Length, 0.56 inch; breadth, 0.26 inch. This and the following form are more like species occurring in the White River Tertiary basin than any yet known in other formations of the Northwest; but they both differ from the White River species in being- more slender, in consequence of the less ventricose character of the body- whorl. Locality and position. — Same as last. LiMN^A siMiLis, Meek. Plate 5, fig. 2, a, b (mag. 2 diam.). Limnwa similis, Meek (1860), Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad., XII, 314. This fonn differs from the last in having more convex whorls and a deeper, as well as a more oblique suture. They may possibly be varieties of one species, but, after (examining a more complete sei'ies than that first studied, I am still inclined to think them more probably distinct. Locality and position. — Same as last. CATALOGUE OF THE ORGANIC REMAINS CONTAINED IN THE COLLECTION. DEVONIAl!^ SPECIES. BEACmOPODA. NAjrES. REMARKS, LOCALITIES, ETC. Productus , untlt. sp., No. 350* West side of Buell Valley; latitude 39° 30', lon- gitude 1150 36'. Athyris , undt. sp., No. 350 Locality and position same as last. Atrypa aspera, (Schlot.) Dalui.?, No. 350 Locality and position same as last. Atrypa reticularis, (Liu.) Dalm., No. 350 Locality and position same as last. Spirifer , undt. sp., No. 350 Locality and position same as last. Spiri/er Utahensis, Meek Locality and position same as last. Spirifer strigosus. Meek, No. 351 Buell Valley ; latitude 39° 32', lon},atude 115° 36'. Spirifer Engelmanni, Meek, No. 351 Buell Valley ; latitude 39° 32', longitude 115° 36'. Undetermined fragments of trochiform univalves. -Buell Valley ; latitude 39° 32', longitude 115° 36'. CRUSTACEA. Momalonotm f (fragments) West side of Steptoe Valley ; latitude 39° 47', longitude 114o 58'. Prcetus ,'undetermined fragments Locality and position same as last. CAEBONIFEROUS SPECIES. PLANTiE. Lepidodendron -. , undt. sp.. No. 144 In dark sbaly beds, Timpanogos Caiiou, Utah ; latitude 40° 22', longitude 111° 38'. Goal- Measures. Stems or rootlets of undt. plants In sandstone, 13 miles west of Leavenworth City, Kansas. Coal-Measures. FOBAMINIPEEA. FusuKna cylindrica, Fischer ? Nine miles west of Leavenworth City ; east fork of Grasshopper Creek, and on Nemaha and Vermilion Creeks, Kansas. Coal-Measures. GhcBtetes , undt. sp.. No. 402 Massive. Found loose near Eio Virgen ; latitude 37°, longitude 114°. Age ? Syringopora , undt. sp., No. 184 Similar to S. ramulosa, Goldf. Western foot of General Johnston'.s Pass; latitude 40° 6', longitude 112° 42'. Probably Lower Carbon- iferous. ' These are the original nnmhers of the specimens. REPOET ON PALiE'JNTOLOGIOAL COLLECTIONS. 369 Zaphrentis , imdt. sp., No. 170 West of C.inip Floyd, in hard, dark, siliceous limestone ; latitude 40'^ 13', longitude 112'3 10'- Lower Carbon ifcrotis. Gyathophyllum ? , No. 185 West foot of General Johnston's Pass : latitude 40° C ; longitude 112° 42'. Loawr Garhonlf- erous. POLYZOA. Fenestella , undt. sp. (fragments), No. 201. ..Hills west of Camp Floyd; latitude 10^ 13' longitude 112° 10'. Lower CarhoHiferoun. Archimedipora , undt. fragment. No. 201... .Locality and position same as last. BRACHIOPODA. Chonctes Verneuiliana, N. and P., No. 243 Yellow limestone east side of Long Valley; lati' tude390 57'; longitude 115° 10'. Upper Car- boniferous. ProducUis nuilti.1 5, a. Dorsal view. 5, ft. Ventr.al view. 5, c. Portion of granulated surface magnified. PALJ£ONTOLO&Yof Cap+. J.H.Sirmisons Exnls.1858- ^P- CAUHONIFK.ROUS FOSSILS. ^.,,eud.x J, Plate II. c !,«; ■^^^^^5,^^^< ,nclaii8iSor..lill'..Pl>U». PLATE III. Page. Fig. 1. Dextalium ? suhqimprati-m 357 1, a. Natural size. 1, h. Maguified view of .same. l,c. Section of same. Fig. 2. GRYrn.EA caxceoi-a? 356 Fig. 3. C.\MrTOXECTES BELUSTRI.ITA 356 3, a. Inside view of right valve, as seen embedded in the matrix. 3, 6. Inside view of left valve of another specimen, as seen in matrix. 3, c. Maguified view of a portion of the external surface, showing the fine arched radiating stria-, crossed Ijy the delicate marks of growth. 3, d. A fragment showing the outside of anterior ear of right valve. Fig. 4. Belemxites dexsus ; 358 4, a. Outline dorsal view of an imperfect specimen. 4, h. End view of the same, broken across near the termination of the alveolar cavity. Fig. 5. Pextacrixites J 355 5, a. View of portions^of the column, as seen in the matrix, with the lateral appendages attached. 5, b. A few joints of the column enlarged. 5, c. End view of the same. Fig. 6. OsTUEA ExGEL-MAXXi, iusidc view 355 PALAEONTOLOGY of , J. H. Simpsons Expls. 1653-59 I'HASSIC FOSSILS ApTiendbc J. Plate III. PLATE IV. Pape. Fig. 1,(1. IXOCERAMCS PKOBLKMATICUS ? ^8 a. Side view of a specimen, with irros'ilar uudiilatious. l,ZiaiKl c. Inoceramus dimidius? 356 Fig. 2, (I and 6. Inocera.mus , nndt ^^ Fig. 3. An'OMIa concentriC'a, nppcr valve in matrix 359 Fig. 4. Imocer AMUS Simpsoni 360 A riglit-side view of type speciim-u, natural sizp. PLATE IV. Page, Fig. l,n. IXOCERAMIS rliOBI.KMATICU.'^? ."iSS a. Side view of a specimen, with invKiilar umliilations. 1, h ami c. IsocERAMCS in.vriDiUiS ? 358 Fig. 2, a and 6. Inoceuamu-s , nndt 358 Fig. 3. Anomia coxcENTEiCA.npper valve in matrix 359 Fig. 4. IxoCERAMUs SurrsoNi 3f!0 A right-side view of type spfcinicu, natural sizf. PLATE V. Pago. Fig. 1. GuNion.vsis SiMPsoNi 305 1, a. Specimen with yertical cost.T and revolving lines well defined. 1, 6. JIagnified view of a portion of the same. 1, c. View of a specimen with more flattened whorls and less distinct surface-markings. 1, (i. Another view of the same, showing the aperture. 1, c. View of a specimen with more convex whorls and moderately distinct surfiice-markings. Fig. 2. LiMNyEA SIMILIS ?,Cu 2, a. Back view of a specimen magnified two diameters. 2, 6. Another view of the same. Fig. 3. LlMX^A VETUSTA 367 3, a. 'Front view, natural size. 3, h. Back view of same. Fig. 4. a, h. Riiytopiiorus rRiscu.s, two views 304 Fig. .'). GoNiOBASis ARCTA, Meek :U'ilj Fig. 6. Pyrgdi.ifera iiumero-sa 3C3 fi, a. Dorsal view of an imperfect specimen. G, h. Anotlicr view of the same. [Inner lip too thin and base of aperture too round.] • (i. c. A smaller specimen with more distinct nodes around the shoulder. Fig. 7. Planorm.s spectabilis 3G6 7, 0, S. Upper views of two specimens. 7, 0. Under view of the former. 7, d. Profile view. Fig. 8. Planorbis spectabilis var. Utaiien.sis 3(17 8,0. Upper view. 8,1). Profile view, showing apertnre. 8,0. Under side, showing umbilicus. Figs. 9 and 10. Corbula pykiformi.s 3fil Fig. 11. UnioHaydeni 304 11, a. Specimen retaining most of the shell. 11, 6. Internal oast. Fig. 12. UnIO VETUSTA 301 12, a. Side view of an imperfect young shell, flattened by pressure. 12, t. Dorsal view of a large left valve, the jiosterior portion of which is broken aw.ay. Fig. 13. CORBOLA Engelmanni 303 13, a. Side view of right valve. 13, h. Dorsal view of same. Fig. 14. LiMN;EA? NITIDULA 3fi3 TKHTIAHY FOSSILS, Appeudix J.Plate V. T Siiiclait8.Son.lilk.fliil» EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX K. ORNITHOLOGY A LIST OF BIRDS BY PROF. SPENCER F. BAIRD. LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CHARLES S. MCCARTHY, TAXIDERMIST. Classified bv Prof. Spencer F. Baird. 1. Falco saker var. polyagrus, Ridgtvai/. — Prairie Falcon. South Fork Platte; between Butte and Steptoe Valleys ; 2 specimens. 2. Tinnunculus sparverius, ViciUot. — Sparrow Hawk. Little Sandy River; Scott's Bluff; 27 miles west of Laramie; North Fork Platte; 4 specimens. 3. AcciPiTER Fuscus, 5ow. — Sharp sliiimed Hawk. Big Sandy Creek; 1 specimen. 4. Buteo SwAiKSONi, i?ow. — Swainson's Buzzard. Bear River, Utah; McCarthy's Creek ; Ko-bah Valley ; Sweetwater ; 4 specimens. 5. Archibuteo ferrugineus, Gray. — Squirrel Hawk. Ko-bah Valley ; Needles Creek; Sulphur Creek; 3 specimens. Also eggs Nos. 2329, 2330, in Rush Valley and South Fork Humboldt. 6. Circus hudsonius, VieiUot. — Marsh Hawk. Camp Floyd ; Turnley's Spring ; Bear River, Utah; 4 specimens. Eggs No. 2331, South Fork Humboldt. 7. Aquila chrysaetos var. canadensis, Rklgtvmj. — Golden Eagle. Steptoe Valley; 1 specimen. 8. Otus vulgaris var. wilsonianus, Allen. — Long-eared Owl. Skull Valley ; 1 specimen. Eggs No. 2332 same place. 9. Brachyotus palustris, Bona]). — Short-eared Owl. Round Prairie ; 1 speci- men. 10. Speotyto cunicularia var. hypug^a, Coues. — Prairie Owl. Fort Kearney ; Platte Creek ; Horse Creek, Utah ; 4 specimens. 11. Picus villosus var. hareisii, Allen. — Harris's Woodpecker. Utah; 1 specimen. 12. Melanerpes erythocephalus, Swainson. — Red-headed Woodpecker. Three from La Bonte River ; 1 from Fort Leavenworth ; 1 Utah ; 5 specimens. 13. Melanerpes torquatus, Bon. — Lewis's Woodpecker. Sierra Nevada ; 1 specimen. 14. Colaptes auratus, Swainson. — Flicker. Fort Leavenworth ; 2 specimens. 15. Colaptes mexicanus, Swainson. — Red-shafted Flicker. North Fork Platte ; La Bont^ River ; 2 specimens. 16. Selasphorus platycercus, Gonld. — Broad-tailed Hummingbird. No labels; 3 specimens. 48 B u 378 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. 17. Antrostomus nuttalii, Cassin.—" Foor Will." Smith's Creek; 1 specimen. Also eggs No. 2834, Ko-bah Valley. 18. Chordeiles popetue var. henryi, Allen. — Western Night Hawk. Big Blue; La Bont^ River ; 2 specimens. Eggs No. 2333, Ko-bah Valley. 19. Tyrannus VERTicALis, S'rtT/.— Arkansas Flycatcher. Ruby Valley; La Bontd, Platte, and Humboldt Rivers ; 4 miles west of Laramie ; 6 specimens. 20. Myiarchus cinerascens, Lawrence. — Ash-throated Flycatcher. Valley of Humboldt River ; Ko-bah Valley ; 2 .specimens. 21. Empidonax pusillus?, Cahanis. — Little Flycatcher. Goshoot Pass; 1 specimen. 22. Empidonax obscurus, Baird. — Wright's Flycatcher. Ruby Valley ; Steptoe Valley ; 2 specimens. Eggs (?) No. 2335, Dodge Valley. 23. TuEDUS migratoeius, Limmus. — Robin. Camp Floyd; mountains near Genoa; 3 specimens. 24. SiALiA mexicana, Swalnson. — Western Bluebird. Sierra Nevada; Sweet- water; 2 specimens. 25. SiALiA arctica, Sivalnson. — Rocky Mountain Bluebird. Ruby Valley, Utah; 4 specimens. 26. Geothlypis triciias, Cahanis. — Maryland Yellowthroat. Fort Leavenworth; 1 specimen. 27. IcTERiA virens var. longicauda. Cones. — Yellow-breasted Chat. Leaven- worth; 1 .specimen. 28. Helmintiiophaga celata, Baird. — Orange-crowned Warbler. Green River ; 1 specimen. 29. Seiurus noveboracensis, Nutt. — Water Thrush. Leavenworth; 1 specimen. 30. Dendroica NIGRE.SCEN.S, Baird. — Black-throated Gray Warbler. Utah; 1 specimen. 31. Dendroica audubonii, Baird. — Audubon's Warbler. Utah; 1 specimen. 32. Dendroica pennsylvanica, Baird. — Chestnut-sided Warbler. Leavenworth ; 1 specimen. 33. Dendroica estiva, Baird. — Summer Yellow Warbler. Fort Leavenworth ; Ko-bah Valley, Utah ; 3 specimens. 34. Myiodioctes pusillus, Bon. — Green Black-capped Flycatcher. Leaven- worth ; Green River ; 2 specimens. 35. Petrochelidon lunifrons. Say. — Cliff Swallow. McCarthy's Creek ; 2 specimens. 3G. Progne sums, Baird. — Purple Martin. 27 miles west of Laramie ; 1 specimen. 37. CoLLURio borealis, Baird. — Great Northern Shrike. Fort Laramie ; Camp Floyd ; 3 specimens. 38. CoLLURio LUD0VICIANU.S var. EXCUBIT0R0IDE.S, Coues. — Wliite-rumpcd Shrike. Steptoe Valley ; Ko-bah Valley ; Fort Laramie ; between Long and Ruby Valleys ; 4 specimens. Also eggs 233G, 2337, 2338, fi"om Humboldt River, Utah. 39. Galeoscoptes carolinensis. Gray, Cabanis. — Catbird. Fort Leavenworth; 1 sijecimen. OENITHOLOGY. 379 40. (Ikeoscoi'Tes montanus, Baud. — Mountain Mockingbird. Ko-l)ali Valley; Soutli Fork Humboldt; 4 specimens. Also eggs Nos. 2340, 2341, 2342, 2343, 2344, from Ko-bah Valley, Utah ; Antelope Valley ; Soutli Fork of Humboldt. 41. Harporuynciius rufus. Cab. — Brown Thrush. Leavenworth ; 1 specimen. 42. Troglodytes aedon var. parkmanii. Corns. — Parkman's Wren. La Bonte River ; Sierra Nevada ; 2 specimens. 43. Parus atricapillus var. septentrionalis, Allen. — Long-tailed Chickadee. Fort Leavenworth ; 1 specimen. 44. Eremopiiila alpestris. Bole. — Sky Lark. Camp Floyd ; 5 specimens. 45. Chrysomitris tristis, Bon. — Yellowbird. Fort Leavenworth ; 1 specimen. 46. Pooecetes graminkus var. confjnis, Bainl. — Grass Finch. The eggs No. 2346 were collected at Antelope Peak. 47. CiiONDESTES grammaca, Boii. — Lark Finch. Steptoe Valley ; Forks of I'latte ; 2 s])ecimens. 48. JuNCO OREGONUS, Sclater. — Oregon Snowbird. Camp Floyd ; 1 specimen. 49. Spizella sociALis, Bon. — Chipping Sparrow. Gibralter Creek ; 1 specimen. 50. Spizella breweri, Cassin. — Brewer's Sparrow. Ko-bah Valley ; Goshoot Pass ; 3 specimens. Also eggs No. 2348, at Pilot Valley. 51. Spizella !. — McCarthy's Valley ; Green River. 52. Passerella SCHISTACEA, Bainl. — Slate-colored Sparrow. Mount Lookout ; 1 specimen. 53. Calamospiza bicolor, Bon. — Lark Bunting. South Fork Platte ; Chimney Rock ; Utah ; 3 specimens. 54. EluspiZA AMERICANA, i>o«. — Black-tliroated Bunting. Fort Kearney; Utah; 2 specimens. 55. Hedymeles melanocepiialus, Cahan. — Black-headed Grosbeak. 2 from Simpson's Lake ; 2 from between Skull and Rush Valleys ; 4 specimens. 56. Cyanospiza amcena, Baird. — Lazuli Finch. 2 Sierra Nevada; 1 Gibralter Creek ; 3 specimens. 57. Cyanospiza cyanea, Bainl. — Lidigobird. Fort Leavenworth ; 2 specimens. 58. PiPiLO erythrophthalmus, Vieillot. — Towhee Bunting. Fort Leavenworth ; 2 sjiecimens. 59. PiPiLO MACULATUS var. ARCTicus, Coues. — Arctic Towhee. La Bonte River; 1 specimen. 60. PiPiLO ciiLORURUS, Bainl. — Green-tailed Finch. Mount Lookout, Utah ; 2 specimens. Also eg-gs No. 2338, from same place. 61. DoLiCHONYX OKYZivoRus var. ALBiNUCHA, Eidf/irai/. — "Bob-o-link" — Reed- bird. 115 miles west of Fort Kearney; 4 specimens. 62. MoLOTHRUS ater, Graij. — Cowbird. 115 miles west of Fort Kearney; 2 specimens. 63. Agelaius PHffiNiCEUS, Vieillot. — Red- winged Blackbird. Utah; 3 from Camp Floyd; Platte River; 5 specimens. 64. Xanthocephalus icterocephalus, Bainl. — Yellow-headed Blackbird. Bear River; South Fork of Platte; Chimney Rock; 3 specimens. 380 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. 65. Stuknella magna var. neglecta, Cones. — Westera Lark. Big- Blue River; Ruby Valley; 2 specimens. 66. Icterus bullocki, Bon. — Bullock's Oriole. La Bont(^ River; Sierra Nevada; 2 specimens. 67. QuiscALUs PURPUREUS var. .eneus, Ridgivay. — Crow Blackbird. Fort Leaven- worth; 1 specimen. 68. CoRVUS CORAX var. carnivorus, Baird. — American Raven. Camp Floyd; 2 specimens. Also eggs No. 2514, Pleasant Springs. 69. PicicoRVUS COLUMBIANUS, J?o«. — Clarke's Crow. Sierra Nevada ; FortBridger; 2 specimens. 70. Pica RUSTiCA var. HUDSONICA, i?rtm?. — Magpie. Sweetwater; Carson Valley; 2 specimens. 7L Cyanura stelleri var. frontalis, Ridgwaij. — Steller's Jay. Sierra Nevada; 1 specimen. 72. Cyanocitta californica var. woodhousii, Baird. — Woodliouse's Jay. 2 Camp Floyd; Mount Lookout; Skull Valley; 4 specimens. 73. Perisoreus canadensis var. capitalis, Baird. — Canada Jay. Utah; 1 speci- men. 74. EcTOPiSTES migratoria, Sw. — Wild Pigeon. 40 miles west of Fort Laramie; 1 S2^*icimen. 75. Zenaidura carolinensis, Bon. — Common Dove. Steptoe and Ko-bah Val- leys; North Fork of Platte; 3 specimens. 76. Canace obscura, Baird. — Dusky Grouse. Little's Canon; 1 specimen. 77. Centrocercus urophasianus, Sw. — Sage Cock. 2 Little's Canon; 2 Pacific Springs; 1 Camp Floyd; 1 Ko-bah Valley ; 2 no labels; 8 specimens. Also eggs Nos. 2510, 2511, 2512, from South Fork of Humboldt, and Steptoe Valley. 78. Peuioc.etes piiasianellus var. columbianus, Coues. — Sharp-tailed Grouse. 100 miles from Fort Laramie; 1 specimen. 79. Cupidonia cupido, Baird. — Prairie Hen. Fort Kearney; 1 .specimen. 80. BoNASA umbellus var. umbelloides, Baird. — Gray Mountain Grouse. Utah; Fort Bridger; 2 specimens. 81. Grus canadensis, Temminck. — Sand-hill Crane. Humboldt Valley; Simp- sou's Lake; 2 specimens. Also eggs Nos. 2516, 2517, same localities. 82. Bataurus minor, Boie. — Bittern. Marsh near Platte; 1 specimen. 83. Nyctiardea grisea var. NiEViA, Allen. — Night Heron. Reese's River; 1 spec- imen. Eggs No. 2515, same place. 84. Ibis guarauna, Ridgway. — Glossy Ibis. Simpson's Lake; 1 specimen. 85. ^gialitis vociferus, Cassin. — "Killdeer." Horse Creek; Fort Kearney; 3 specimens. 86. ^GiALiTis montanus, Baird. — Mountain Plover. Horseshoe Creek; South Fork of Platte; Sweetwater; 3 specimens. 87. Recurvirostra Americana, Gin. — American Avocet. 4 from Sweetwater; Willet Camp; Avocet Camp; Horse Creek; 7 specimens. 88. Steganopus wilsonii, Coaes. — Wilson's Phalarope. Steptoe Valley; 10 miles from South Fork of Platte; 3 specimens. ORNITHOLOGY. 381 80. GrALLiNAGO GALLiNARiA viir. wiLSONi, Ridijwaij. — English Snipe. Fort Biidger; 1 specimen. 90. Tringa ?. — 30 miles west of O'Fallon's Bluff; 1 specimen. 91. Ereunetes pusillus, Cassin. — Semipalmated Sandpiper. Horse Creek; 1 specimen. 92. Symphemia semipalmata, Hartl — Willet. Big Sandy River; 3 specimens. 93. Tringoides macularius, Gray. — Spotted Sandpiper. Simpson's Lake; 1 specimen. 94. AcTiTUKUS BAKTKAMius, BoH. — Field Plover. 5 specimens, all from Big Blue River. 95. Numenius longirostris, Wilson. — Long-billed Curlew. Utah; Camp Floyd; Carson Lake; O'Fallon's Bluff; Vermillion Creek; 5 specimens. Also eggs 2507, 2508, from Skull Valley; 2509 from South Fork of Humboldt. 96. Rallus virginianus, Linn. — Vu'ginia Rail. Ko-bah Valley; 1 specimen. 97. FuLiCA AMERICANA, Gm. — Coot. Camp Floyd; 1 specinien. 98. Anas BoscnAS, iym«. — Mallard. Big Sandy; 1 specimen. Eggs 2513, Ruby Valley. 99. Dafila acuta, Jenyns. — Pintail. Utah; Scott's Bluff; Sweetwater; Camp Floyd; 4 specimens. 100. Nettion cakolinensis, Baird. — Green- winged Teal. 2 Utah Lake; Fort Kearney; 3 specimens. 101. QuERQUBDULA DiscoRS, Steph. — Blue- winged Teal. Utah; Fort Bndger; Sweetwater; 3 specimens. 102. QuERQUEDULA CYANOPTERA, Cussin. — Red-breasted Teal. 2 Spring Valley; Sweetwater; 3 specimens. 103. Spatula clypeata, Boie. — Shoveler. Utah; Utah Lake; Pilot Valley; South Fork of Platte; 4 specimens. 104. Chaulelasmus streperus, Gray. — Gadwall. Utah Lake; 2 specimens. 105. Mareca AMERICANA, Stepli. — American Widgcou. Camp Floyd; 2 specimens. 106. Aix SPONSA, Bote. — Summer Duck. Rock Creek, Kansas; 1 specimen. 107. FuLix affinis, Baird. — Little Blackhead. Lake Utah; 1 specimen. 108. Aythya AMERICANA, BoH. — Rcdliead. Lake Utah; 2 specimens. 109. Erismatura RUI3IDA, Bon. — Ruddy Duck. Utah; Sweetwater; 2 specimens. 110. Mergus americanus, Cassin. — Shelldrake. Utah; 1 specimen. 111. Lopiiodytes cucullatus, Reicli. — Hooded Merganser. Fort Kearney; 2 specimens. 112. Sterna iiirundo, i/('»«. — Wilson's Tern. Sweetwater; Horse Creek; 2 speci- mens. 113. Sterna fosteri, Nuttall. — Foster's Tern. Ruby Valley; 1 specimen. 114. PoDiCEPs AURiTus var. CALiFORNicus, Cou€s. — American Eared Grebe. East side Rocky Mountains; Sweetwater; 2 specimens. Total of specimens, 258; total of species, 114. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX L. REPORT ON ICHTHYOLOGY. PROF. THEO. ail^L. KEPOKT ON ICHTHYOLOGY. By Prof. Tiieo. Gill. Smithsonian Institution, Wasliingtou, December 1, 1860. Sir : I have the honor to forward to you the report on the ichthyology of your expedition, wliich I have been requested to prepare. Although few species of fishes were obtained, they are of much interest. Most of them have been fully described in the accompanying report, even when not new, as in the case of the species which is now called Platyyoblo communis. As all the groups to which the respective species belong are in some confusion and not well restricted, I have been compelled to examine the history and nomenclature of not only the genera to which they are referable, but of the allied ones. As in almost all the cases, such genera have been limited in a different manner and considerable modi- fications introduced, I have always given the full generic characters, founded on a personal examination, or a careful perusal of the descriptions of all the known species of the genera. Tliis I have considered to be the course most advantageous, under the circimistances, to science. The classification which I have here followed is that which I have proposed and pubhshed in the Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia. It may be considered a modification of that of the illustrious and learned Johannes Midler, whose recent death has been so much mourned by naturalists ; it differs from the Miillerian classification in the very difi'erent acceptation and restriction of the orders and suborders. The investigations which have been undertaken in the preparation of the report have been pursued in the Smithsonian Institution; and to the power of availing myself of the excellent Library and Museum of the Institution, such value as the report may have is due. I am, sir, very truly yours, Theo. Gill. Capt. J. H. Simpson. 49 b u 386 .EXPLOEATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Subclass TELEOSTEI, Muller. Order TE LEOCE PH ALI, Gill. Suborder PIIYSOCLYSTI, (Bon.) Gill. Family PERCOID^, (Cuv.) Gill. Subfamily LABE-AOIN^, Gill. There is found in tlie MediteiTanean Sea a fisli which has, from the earliest times, attracted the attention of tlie inhal)itants of the neigliboring coasts from the abundance in which it is found and the size to which it attains. By tlie ancients, as at the present day, it was much esteemed as an article of food, and was called by the Greeks XafipaP, and by the Romans lupus. Of this fish, Cuvier has said (but scarcely with strict cor- rectness) that its appearance and almost all the details of its form recall to mind the perch, and that a just idea would be given of it by describing it as a " large, elongated, and silvery perch ". From the Perches, however, it differs in several characters, Avhich induced Cuvier to separate it generically, and for the name of the "genus he adopted the Greek desig- nation of the species. The characters by which Cuvier distinguished it from the Perches were the presence of teeth on the tongue and of two spines to the operculum. It differs also from the true Perches in the armature of some of its bones and by the shorter spinous dorsal fin, the rays in the European and allied American species being always nine, and still more by modifications of the skeleton and among others the small number of vertebra^, of which there are II or 12 abdominal and 13 or 14 caudal. The very distinct type represented hjLahrax Japonicus Cuv. and Val. (zzLateolahraxJaponictis Bleeker) has, however, 16 abdominal and 19 caudal vertebr.T. Though Cuvier Avas the first to properly distinguish the genus, its type had been long previously recorded by Klein as the first of two species, which he placed in a group, for which he used the same name Lahrax. That author, in his fifth and last Missal for the Advancement of the Natural His- tory of Fishes,* has devoted his ninth fasciculus to the consideration and description of those fishes provided with two dorsal fins. In this group he includes the Trouts {Trutta Klein), in which the first dorsal is sustained by branched rays while the second is adipose, as well as Mullus, Cestrceus Klein, Lahrax Klein, Sphgra;na, Gohio Klein, Asperulus Klein, and Trichidion Klein, in which the first dorsal is spinous and the second has branched rays. Trutta of Klein is synonymous with the extended genus Salmo of Linnaeus ; Mullus embrac es, like the Linnrean genus, the Ilulli and the Amias of Gronovius, or Apogons of Lacepede ; the Cestreei are the Mugiles of Lin- naeus ; Sphyrmia is limited to the true species of the genus as now accepted ; Gohio •Jacobi Theodori Kleiu Historia" Pisciuin promovendEe Mis.sus quintus et ultimus de piscibus per brauchias apertas respirantibus, Gedani, Litteris Scbreiberianis, 1749. REPORT ON ICHTHYOLOGY, 387 is equivalent to Gobiiis of Linnaeus ; Asjjeridus to Aspro ot Cuvier ; and Trichidion to rohjncmns of Linnanis. The group, it will be thus seen, is composed of very dissimilar elements. From it are also excluded Perca, and other genera with tlie dorsal fins quite as distinct. The Perches ai-e placed in a group of which the character is the presence of only one dorsal entire or sinuate. Lahrax itself is defined* as having as many fins as Ccstrccus (or Iliujil Linn.) ; serrated scales ; the mouth large, and provided with numerous slender teeth in many rows. Two species are referred to it : the Lahrax diacantlms Gill {Sc'mna diacantha Bloch, Lahrax lupiis Linn.) ; and the Centropomus undecimalis of Lac(ipfede, and the moderns. The genus itself is therefore not very unnatural, but its characters are common to many others, especially to Perca. In the second and third volumes of the great " Histoire Naturelle des Poissons", Cuvier and Valenciennes have referred to the genus Lahrax seven nominal species, six of which are described in the fonner volume. Of these, the Lahrax lupus is the type of the genus, and is distinguished by the spur-like spines of the inferior margin of the preoperculum ; the presence of a perfect marginal band of teeth, and of an oval basal patch on the tongue ; tlu-ee spines to the anal fin ; and other characters, which have been noticed in the preceding synopsis. To this should the name Lahrax be restricted. The second species (le Bar alonge, or Perca elongata of Geoflfroy) is distinguished by finer and more numerous teeth on the inferior border of the preoperculum, and the presence of only two anal spines. The distinctive characters of this species, however, require to be confirmed. The third species is the Lahrax lineatus of Cuvier, the common Rock-fish or Striped Bass of the United States. This has been taken as the type of a new genus, for which Mitchill's name Boccus is preserved. The characters are given below. To this genus should be also referred the Lahrax muUilincatus described by Cuvier and Valenciennes in the third volume of their "Histoire Naturelle des Poissons". The fourth species, Lahrax Waigiensis, has been identified by Bleeker with the Psammopcrca dafnioides of Richardson; if this is correct (and, notwithstanding the dis- crepancies between the descriptions of the "Histoire Naturelle" and Richardson, such appears to be the case), it belongs to a very distinct genus from the Lahrax lupus. The teeth of the jaws, vomer, and palatines are described by Richardson as crowded, rounded, and gi-anular, while by Cuvier the teeth on both jaws, the chevron of the vomer, and the palatines are said to be villiform ("dents en velours"): it is also stated by Cuvier that there is a small oval disk at the base of the tongue ; by Richardson, the tongue is said to be smooth. In the latter statement, however, he disagrees not only with Cuvier and Valenciennes, but with Bleeker, who also' asserts f that there is an oblong patch at the base of the tongue, "lingua basi thurma denticulorum scabra." Both authors agree as to the presence of a single spine to the operculum (although one of the generic characters assigned to Lahrax by Cuvier was the presence of two spines on that bone), * Pinnas habet tot quot Cestra'us et Mugil: squamas serratas: os maguuni pluriniis tenuissimisqiie dentibus multiplici ordiue munitum. Voracissimns. t Natnnrkiindig Tydschrift voor Nederlandsch Indie, vol. ii, p. 479. 388 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. and of a strong horizontal spine at the angle of the preoperculum, above which the margin is pectinated. The next species in order, Lahrax Japonicus of Cnvier and Valenciennes, is the type of the genus Lateolabrax of Bleeker,* which is widely separated from Lahrax by the absence of any teeth on the tongue, the increased number of its vertebrae, &c. In the plectroid aiTnature of the operculum, it however resembles that genus. The last si^ecies, Lahrax viucronatus, is also now considered as the type of a new genus, for which the name Morone is accepted. Its generic characters and aflSnities will be given at length in a subsequent portion of this memoir. Of the seven species referred by Cuvier and Valenciennes to the genus Lahrax, five are thus seen to belong to different genera. Nor do any of these genera appear to be unnecessary; but, on the conti-ary, all of them are well distinguished from each other by characters that ichthyologists must admit are of importance: two of the species, indeed, that were referred to the genus by the French naturalists, do not agree with their diagnosis of that genus, and it is doubtful, indeed, whether they have any near relations with the others. It is not in disparagement of those celebrated and able men that these remarks have been made. The progress of scientific discovery and the examination of better materials have enabled their successors to discover the errors of the founders of modern ichthyology. None could have performed the work at that day better than they. Having long since, from an examination of the descriptions of various authors, been aware of the confusion and uncertainty in which oiir American species of the Cuvierian Lahrax were enveloped, I believed that it might be a useful task to attempt the elucidation of the genus. The results of the investigations undertaken therefor have been published, in the Proceedings of the Academy of Natm-al Sciences of Phila- delphia for April, 1860, as a "Monograph of the Genus Lahrax of Cuvier." Most of our general remarks are reproduced, with many additional ones, in the present report. The nominal American species admitted by Drs. De Kay and Storer in the genus Lahrax amount to seven, and another specific name has been since added by Filippi, an Italian naturalist. It has been attempted to demonstrate, in our mono- graph of the genus, that all of those nominal species are referable to three tiaie ones. Three of the synonpns apply to one species, and four to another. Besides the species that have been attributed to the genus by Richardson, De Kay, and Filippi, several others have been described under that name by modern naturahsts. Dr. Charles Girard has noticed two of these in the "Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia" under the names Lahrax nehulosus and L. cla- thratus. He afterward constructed for them a new genus, which he called Paralabrax, *By a misunderstanding, the name Percalabrax has been taken by some authors as the generic denomination of this type. Cuvier (Hist. Nat. des Poissons, i, 55) has remarked, "Nous avons cru, pour plus de clarti • • .tj ^ • ^ Lepihema MITCHII.U \ ^"-f'' Ichthyologia Ohieusis, p. 23 (passim). Labrax uneatus Ciivie)' and T'al., Hist. Nat. des Poissons, vol. ii, p. 79. Perca lahrax ! Smilh, Nat. Hist. Fishes of Mass., p. 277. Labrax LINEATUS ific7i, Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. iii, p. 10. Labrax lineatus Storer, Report on the Fishes of Mass., p. 7. L.U5R.1X I.INEATCS Ayres, Boston Jonru. Nat. Hi.st., vol. iv, p. 707. Labrax lineatus De Kay, Zoology of N. Y. Fishes, p. 7, pi. 1, fig. 3. Labrax lineatus Linsky, Catalogue of Fishes of Connecticut. Labr.vx lineatus Storer, Synopsis Fishes of N. America, p. 21 ; ib. in Memoirs Am. Acad. Labrax lineatus Storer, Hist. Fishes of Mass. ; ib. in Memoirs Am. Acad. vol. v, p. .")5, pi. 1, fig. 4, 18.53. Labrax lineatus, Baird, Report on Fishes of New .Jersey Coast, p. — ; ib. in Ninth Annual Report of Smith. Inst., p. 321. Labrax line.vtus Holhrook, Ichthyology of South Carolina, p. 17, pi. iv, fig. 2. Labrax lineatus Gill, Annual Report Smith. Inst., 1857, p. 255. Labrax lineatus Giinther, Cat.alogue of the Acauthopterygian Fishes in the Collection of the British Museum, vol. i, p. 64. Roccus lineatus Gill, Proceedings Acad, of Natural Sciences of Phila., 1860, p. 64. EOCCUS CHRYSOPS, Gill. Perca chrysops LePIBEMA CHRYSOr Synonymy. > liaf., Ichthyologia Ohiensis, p. 28. Labrax multilinbatus Chi-, and Val, Hist. Nat. des Poissons, vol. iii, p. 588. Perca mcltilineata Les.,fide Cuv., and Val. Labrax notatus Smith, in Rich. Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. iii, p. 8, 1836. L.VBRAX multilinbatus Kirtlaiid, Boston Journ.Tl Nat. Hist., vol. v, p. 21, pi. 7 fig. 1 ; Visitor, p. 53, 1859. 392 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. Ladkax multu>ineatus Dc Kay, Nat. Hist, of New York Fishes, p. 14. liAHiiAX ALBIDUS De Kay, Nat. Hist, of New York Fishes, p. 13, pi. 51, fig. 165. Laurax notatus De Kay, loc. cit., p. 14. L Aim AX MULTILINE atus Storer, Synopsis of the Fishes of North America, p. 22 ; ib. in Memoirs of American Acad., vol. li. Labrax NOTATU.S Storer, loc. cit., p. 22. Labrax ALBIDUS Storer, loc. cit., p. 23. L.vBRAX oscULATii FiUppi, Revue et Magazin du Zoologie, 2d series, vol. v, p. 164. Labrax ciirysops Gill, Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila., 1860, p. 20. Labrax oscclatii Giinther, Catalogue of the Acanthopterygian Fishe-s, &c., p. 65. Labrax multiline atu.s Giinther, Catalogue of the Acanthopterygian Fishes, &c.,p. 67. Roccus cnRYSOPS Gill, Proceedings Acad, of Nat. Sciences of Phila., 1860, p. 113. Not Labrax ciiRY.sor.s Girard. Not Labrax multilineatus (partim) Giinther, Catalogue of the Acanthopterygian Fishes, &c., p. 501. The body is elongated-ovate, with the dorsal outline arched. The height is greatest under the spinous dorsal fin, and there equals twenty-seven hundredths of the entire length from the j^rojecting lower jaw to the concave margin of the caudal fin. The height is nearly unifomi under the spinous dorsal ; the dorsal outline behind that fin slowly declines to the end of the second dorsal; the abdominal outline ascends much more rapidly from the commencement to the end of the anal fin. Behind the latter fin, the height of the caudal peduncle is about a seventh of the entire length; at the base of the caudal fin, it is equal to a ninth of the same. Tlie head is conical in profile, slightly depressed at the nape, and thence descends in nearly a straight line to the snout, the latter being scarcely convex. The head, from the lower jaw to the tip of the opercular spine, forms little more than a quarter of the entire length; its height at the nape behind the vertical of the posterior border of the eye is nearly equal to sixteen hundredths of the entire length. The diameter of the eye is more than equal to a quarter of the head's length, and the eye is distant a diameter from the snout. Tlie pectinated margin of the preoperculum is slightly oblique; its teeth become stronger toward the angle, and are continued on the inferior margin at greater distances for about half the distance between the angle and the articulation with the lower jaw; the anterior limb or margin of the anterior fold is vertical. The operculum has two spines, separated by an oblique emargination. The first dorsal fin commences over the bases of the ventrals, and is of a triangular form. The fourth spine is longest, and equals an eighth of the fish's length; from thence they gradually decrease in size to the ninth, wliich is nearly as large as the second. The second dorsal is entirely separated from the first. Its spine is equal to nearly half the length of its longest ray, and somewhat exceeds that of the seventh spine; the last ray is less than half as long as the longest. The anal fin commences nearly under the fourth ray of the dorsal, and nearly four of its rays are posterior to the end of that fin; the third sipme is longest, and ex- ceeds half the length of the first articulated or longest ray. The relative height is the same as that of the dorsal fin. The caudal fin, when expanded, is emarginated, and its shortest rays form a sixth of the entire length; the longest rays equal a quarter of the same. The pectoral fins are small, and only equal fifteen hundi-edths of the length. The first two rays are simjile; the third, or longest, is branched. REPORT ON ICIITHYOLOGY. 393 The ventrals are longer tlian the pectorals, and equal seventeen huntlredths of the length. The spine is more than half as long as the first branched or longest ray. The number and arrangement of the rays of the respective tins are indicated by the following fonnula : D. IX + I. 1. 11; A. III. 1. ;); C. f). I. S. 7. I. 4; P. 2. 14; V. 1. 5. 'i'lie scales of the trunk are of moderate size, with the nucleus at about the pos- terior third; thence about ten ridges radiate toward the posterior margin, which is crenated by them. Numerous muricated ridges, terminating in pectinations at the pos- terior margin, also radiate ])Osteriorly from the same nucleus. The concentric stri;r are line but well marked. Tlie number of scales through which the lateral line passes amounts to from fifty-three to fifty-six, exclusive of tlie smaller ones at the base of the caudal fin. The number of rows is nine above the lateral line, one through which the lateral line runs, and fourteen below. The operculum is covered with moderate scales, which have subcentral nuclei and muricated and jjectinated posterior margins. Those on the cheeks are much smaller, with the nuclei also subcentral, but with generally entire, or nearl}' entire, margins. Some of the larger scales near the po.sterior margin of the preoperculum are pectinated like the opercular ones. There are on the lower jaw five pairs of indi.stinct, shallow, muciferous grooves; those of the third and fourth pairs are elongated, the last being under the terminal part of the maxillaries. The fifth pair is obsolete. The maxillaries, on their superior parts, are covered with scales smaller than those of the cheeks; the inferior and posterior portions are naked. The color is silvery, tinged with golden on the sides below the lateral line, and above with rose. A number of blackish or dusky lines traverse the sides, four of which are abo\'e tlie lateral line; through a fifth the lateral line runs; and there is a variable number of more or less distinct ones below. The head is dark above and silvery on the sides. The spinous dorsal is punctulated with Ijlack, and has a narrow black margin. The soft dorsal is also punctulated. The anal is blackish at its middle and margin between the rays. The caudal is similar to the dorsal. The pectorals and ventrals are innnaculate. The BoccMS chrysops thus described is undoubtedly identical with the Pcrca or Lepihema chrijsops of Rafinesque, and the Lahra.r viuIfUineafns of the "Ilistoire Natu- relle des Poissons" and of Kirtland. The descriptions that have been given of the species under those names are meager and imsatisfactory ; but the notice of the color given by the above-named authors, and the possession of specimens from the same hydrographical basins as those from which the fishes described by them were taken, leave no doubt as to the identity of the species. Rafinesque's description of his Pcrca rlirysops is, like almost all his descriptions, inapplicable to any known fish, Ijut it agrees with the Moronc chrysops better than any other species. Rafinesque erroneou.sly attributes to his species six branchiostegal rays, a single opercular spine, eight spines to the fii-st doi'sal fin, and places it under 50 B TI 394 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. the g-euus rerca, all the species of which, he informs us, have naked heads. He sug- gested for it a new genus, for which he proposed to give the name Lepihema, in allu- sion to the scaly bases of the unpaired fins. Lesueur subsequently sent to the Paris- ian Museum two specimens of a species which he called Pcrca midtiUncata, which Cuvier and Valenciennes placed in their genus Lahra.r, adopting for it the specific name of Lesueur. Their description is mostly comparative, it being said to differ from the Lahra.r liiieatiis by its higher body, shorter head, more feeble teeth, the stronger asperities of the tongue, and especially the larger scales of the maxillaries, which resemble those of Lahrax mucronatns, while in Labrax 1 meat us they were said to be scarcely 2iercepti))le. The description of the lingual dentition is very unsatisfactory, and no correction is made of the statement made in the second volume that the Labrax Imeatus has only lateral teeth. It is not so much in the de\-elopment of the asperities of the tongue that the lingual dentition of the species differs, as in that, while there are two narrow rows separated by a mesial line in Eoccus liiicafns, the rows are broader at the middle in proportion, and coalescent in Eoccus clirijsops. There were said to be in one specimen sixteen, and in another nineteen, longitu- dinal dark lines. So large a number is rarely seen; the most constant arrangement is five above, including the one through which the lateral line runs, while sometimes there are several below the lateral line, and at other times they are obsolete. These lines are sometimes straight, l)ut often interrupted. In tlie "Faima Boreali-Amerieana" of Richardson, a Lahrax is described in the volume on Ichthyology, under the name Ixihrax uotatus (Smith), the Bar-fish, or "Canadian Basse". This species is said to "difter from Mitchill's Basse (i. Imeatus, Cuvier) in being nuich more robust, and in being marked with rows of spots, five above and five below the lateral line, so regularly interrupted and transposed as to appear like ancient church-music". It has been suggested by Dr. De Kay that it is the same as the Pcrca 31/ f chilli var. inferruptns of Mitchill, but the comparison will apply ver}^ well to Eoccus chri/sops, and it is doubtless identical with that species. In the remarks upon the species, it is said, by Dr. Richardson apparently, that "in the more robust form, and in the strong scales of the head, the Canadian Bar-fish resembles the L. mncronatus of the United States and the West Indies, and the i. muttiUncutus of the >Yabash. The latter has sixteen narrow, black, longitudinal lines on the Hanks." It lias ])een attempted to show that the number of lines is not a specific character ; and if this is the case, the Labrax uotatus and L. midtiVmcatus are probably identical with each other and with Eoccus clirijsops. The Labrax iwtatus, it is true, is stated by Smith to have but one anal spine and six articulated ventral rays; but this statement is undoubtedly due to a lapsus calami, or an error of observation. So great a variation in the number of anal spines, from a nearly allied species, would be in direct opposi- tion to all we know of the peculiarities of the fishes of this ti-ibe, while it is one of the characters of the fanuly to have only five branched rays in the ventral fins. Smith states that he counted fifty-eight scales along the lateral line, a statement which con- lirms the identity of his species with Eoccus chrysops. In the ab.stracts of Smith's description of Lahrax notatus, given by De Kay and Store r, the species is said to have the " length, one to two feet". Even if this was so, it REPORT ON ICUTHYOLOGY. 395 would not inilitalo against the iilea of its identity with Roccus chnjsops, altlioiigli usually large, l)ut an examination of the doscri])tion of Smith and IviehavdKon reveals no mention whatever of the size of the species. In the number of Guerin's "Revue et Magazin de Zoologie " for April, ISoS (vol. V, p. 164), Professor Filippi, of Turin, has described a lioccus, to which he has given the name of Lahrax Osctilatii; a traveler in America, M. Osculati, having o))tained it from Lake Ontario. Filipi)i has distinguished this species from Lahrax UncatKS very well, alluding to the two longitudinal lines of l)asal teeth in that si)ecies, and attril)uting to his own a single o\'al patch. His other characters are the greater height of the body in L. Osculatii, which e(pials a third of the length, wliile in L. liiicafii.s it is a quarter, and the nuudjer of scales, which are fonnulated as r)(lT'5 for L. Osculatii and (i4i\ for L. lincatHS. The true teeth are also said to be more numerous. The dis- tinctive characters of the species are very well stated by Filii)})i, but his expression of surprise' that a h.sh so common in the United States should not have lieen noticed by any Anierican naturalist, not even l)y Dr. De Kay, is uncalled for. Unhappily, the species had been too often noticed, and in De Kay's Ichthyology of New York it appears under no less than three different names. Filippi has mentioned its habitat as the sea and rivers of the United- States {mare ct fluviis Confcdcratioms Americana!). I know not on what authority it is said to iidiabit the sea. It is ])robal)ly assumed to be found there because the JRocciis lineattts is. So far as we know, it is confined to the great fresh-water lakes and the western rivers. As Filippi has already led one naturalist into error regarding the proportions of the species, it seems necessary to state tbat he nuist have reckoned the length only from the snout to the base of the caudal fin, and not to its margin. When so meas- ured, the height is a third of the length, but its height in proportion to the total length is only as three to ten. Specimens of the lioccus chri/sojis are in the museum of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, from Southern Illinois, obtained by j\Ir, Robert Kennicott, and from the Root River, at Racine, Wis., Toronto, &c., obtained by Professor Baird. It appears to be generally distributed in the rivers of the West. The specimens from the hydrographical basins of the Ohio River and of the Great Lakes cannot be specifically distinguished from each other ; nor can I perceive the difference signalized by Dr. Kirtland in the caudal fins of Ohio and Lake Erie specimens. In extreme youth, this species appears to be crossed by obscure vertical bands. At a later epoch, these bands are lost, and afterAvard the longitudinal lines are assumed. The best descriptions of this species have been published by Professor Filippi under the name L. Osculatii, and by the late Dr. De Kay under that of L. albidus. The best figure is that given by Dr. Kirtland in the Journal of the Boston Society of Natural History; but the dorsals are erroneously represented as being connected by a, low membrane. In the text, they are correctly described as being " distinct". It is with much hesitation that I have adopted the specific name of Rafinesque. It Avould have been better for the progress of the science if all the works of that unfortunate naturaHst had been ignored. 396 EXPLOEATIOXS ACROSS TUE GEE AT BASIN OF UTAH. Genus MORON E, Gill. Sij}>onijmij. MonoNE MikhiU, Koport iu part on the rishos of New York, p. 18. (Not deliueii.) MoHONE Gill, Pioceciliu'^s Academy of Nat. .Scicuccs of Phila., ISGO, p. 115. Pekca sp. Jiloch, Gmelin, Lac. Centkopomus sp. Eafiiiesqiie. BoDi.iNUS sp. Mitchill. Lahraces with a pectinated j'l't'opercidiiDi, strongly ctenoid cheek and opercular scales, Ungual teeth developed only in a margi)ial hand, and skull with swollen diaphanous hrain-case and mastoid protuberances projecting toward the foramina for the last two branches on each side of the fifth nerve. The body is obloug-ovatu and .slightly gibbous at the commencement of the dorsal fin. The head is conii)ressed, laterally oblong-conic. The operculum has two spiiie.s, the upper of which is smaller ; the preoperculum pectinated belnnd and beneath ; the suborbital bones entire. The muciferous ca^•ities of the lower jaw are very perceptible. The teeth on the intermaxillary, dentary, vomerine, and palatine bones are villi- form. There is only a marginal band on the tongue, Avhich is less perfect at the tip, the asperities being there more scattered. The interbranchial osselets are smooth. The scales are ctenoid on the body and the entire head. The lateral line anteriorly convex, but not parallel with the back. The dorsal fins are united by a low membrane ; the anterior has nine spines ; the ])Osterior, one. The anal fin has three spines. The caudal is emarginated. The skull has the brain-case with inflated sides below, swollen and developing into mastoid prominences projecting toward the foramina for the last two branches of the fifth pair of nerves, no vacuity between the basioccipital and alisphenoid bones, and the postfrontals laterally contracted. The chief distinctive characters of the genus are the presence of strongly-jjecti- nated scales on the cheeks and opercular bones, and the band of villiform teeth on the sides, and of more scattered ones at the tip, as well as the cranial peculiarities. In the armature of the preoi)erculum and operculum, it resembles the genus Boccus. The slightly gibbous back in front of the dorsal fin and the greater develop- ment of the second anal s^iine are secondary features, which support the natural characters »;>f Morone as distinguished from the genus Boccus. For the name of the genus, one used by Mitchill for a group founded in eiTor has been adopted. The name of Mitchill resulted from a nnsunderstanding of that author regarding the value of the terms made use of by Linna?us. The genus Perca was placed by the Swedish naturalist in his section of Thoracici. Mitchill, believing that the Morone ainerieana, Perca americana {Perca flavescens Cv.), and Poniotis aureus {Pomatis vulgaris Cv.), were rather abdominal fishes, considered them to be generically distinct from Perca, and consequently gave to them the generic name Morone. It is scarcely necessary to state that all the species enumerated have the normal position of the ventrals of Perca, and that therefore Morone of Mitchill was a mere synonym of REl'OKT ON ICeTnYOLOGY. 397 Fcira of Linna-us. I have novcrtlieless chosen to tako that iiaiiio ratlicT tluiii to give a new one. At least two species are now known of the genus Mofonc. One of them is the well-known "White Perch" of the eastern coast; the other is our Mofone hiterrupUi, a species that had been erroneously described under the name Labrax chri/sops. The synonymy of each species will he given, hut a description is only offered of the MoroHC in(crnq)t((. MOKONE AMEKICAXA, Gill. Sijnoiii/nii/. PuiiCA l^cliocplT, Sclirift. tier Oosolls. N;it.-Ficiiiulo, vol. viii, p. ir>9. Pbrca AMERICANA (Inicl., SjstoTua Nattira', vol. i, pars iii, p. 1308. Terca Schoepff, Natnrforsclier, vol. xx, p. 17. Perca immacui.ata Walbaum, Aitedi Cjouoia Pisciuui, p. 3li0. Perca AMERICANA Blocli, Systeiiia Iclitliyolof;iic, Scbueid. e"^s, p. I'.l, June, 1814. Perca mccronata Raf., American Monthly Magazine and Critical Review, vol. ii, [i. 205. Lahrax MCCR<>SATr.>* Cur. and ]'al., Hi.st. Nat. des Poissons, vol. ii, p. 81, pi. 121. BoniANUs KUFLS Smith, Nat. Hist. Fishes of Mass., p.^74. Labrax jiucronatus Storer, Report on Ichthyology of Mass., p. 8. I'ERCA MUCHONATUS (misprint) .Sic, Nat. Hist, of Fishes, Amphibious and Reptile, vol. ii, p. 198, 183J. Laiirax rufus De Kay, Nat. Hist, of New York Fishes, p. i), pi. 3, iig. 7. Labrax mucron.«us Jyres, Boston Jonrnal Nat. Hist., vol. iv, p. 257. Labrax MUCRON.vri'.s Xi««?ey, Catalogno of Fishes of Connecticut. Labrax rufi-.s S/orer, Synopsis of the Fishes of North America, p. 22; ib. in Memoirs of American Academy, new sc- ries, vol. ii, p. 274, 1846. Labhax rufus Storer, Hist, of the Fishes of Mass., p. 1 ; ib. in Memoirs of American Acad., new series, vol. v, p. 57. Labrax mucronatus Baird, Report on Fishes of New Jersey Coast, p. 8; ib. in Ninth Annual Report of Smith. Inst., p. 322, ia-.5. Laurax a.mebicanu.s Bolbrook-, Ichthyology of South Carolina, p. 21, pi. 3, tig. 2, 1855. Laurax rufu.s GUI, Annnal Report of Smith. lust., p. 256, 1857. Labr.vx mucronatus EiU, Catalogue of Fish of Jamaica, p. 1. Labrax rufus Giinther, Catalogue of the Acauthoptcrygian Fishes of the British Museum, p. (i5. Labrax nigricans De Kay, Nat. Hist, of New York Fishes, p. 12, pi. .50, Iig. ICO, 1842. Labrax nigricans Stora; Synopsis of the Fishes of North America ; ib. iu Memoirs of American Acad., vol. ii, p. 23, 184r). Grystes NIGRICANS rar. 1 Herbert, Frank Forrester's Fish and Fishing in the United States, vol. i, p. 191. MoRONE PALLIDA MitihiU, Report, in part, on the Fishes of New York, p. 18. BoDiANUS PAU-IDUS MitchiU,TT!ii\s. Lit. and Phil. Soc. of New York, vol. i, p. 420. BODHNUS PALLIDUS Smith, Nat. Hist, of Fishes of Mass., p. 294. Labrax tallidus De Kay, Nat. Hist, of New York Fishes, p. 11, pi. 1, tig. 2, 1842. Labrax tallidu-S Storer, Synopsis of the Fishes of North America, p. 22 ; ib. iu Memoirs of American Acad., vol. ii, p. 22. Labrax pallidus Perley, Report upou the Fishes of the Bay of Fimdy, p. 121, 1851. Labra.x pallidus Perley, Descriptive Catalogue (in part) of Fishes of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, p. 4; ib. in Reports ou Sea and River F'isheries of New Brunswick, p. 182, 1852. Laurax pallidus Giinther, Catalogue of the Acauthoptcrygian Fishes of the British Museum, p. 67. The history of this species and its nomenclature has Ijeen fully discussed in the monograph published in the Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences. It is therefore unnecessary to reproduce it in this report, the species not being an inhabitant of those regions traveled over by the expedition under Captain Simpson. Giinther has recently, in his "Catalogue of the xVcanthopterygian Fishes in the Collection of the British Museum", retained the Lahrax pullklus and Lahrax rufus as distinct species. We see no reason to change our opinion concerning their identity expressed in onr monograph. 398 EXPLOKATIONS AC140SS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. MORONE INTEKRUPTA, Gill. Synonymy. L.MiUAX ciiKYsors Girard, General Keport upon the ZoOlojjy of the several PaciDc Railroad rontea, lehthyology, p. 29 (pi. xi, figs. 1-4). L.iiiKA.x ciiKVSOPS Girard (figurcil iu Governor Stcplicu's Keport). MoKONE iNTUHKUi'TA GiU, Proceedings Acad, of Nat. Scieuces of Pbila., 18G0, p. 118. The body is oblong ovate, with the back at the coniinenoement of the dorsal fin shghtly g-ibbous. The greatest height under the spinous dorsal equals three-tenths of the leno-th from the snout to the concave margin of the caudal fin. The dorsal outline slightly declines under the sj)inous dorsal and little more under the rayed. The abdom- inal outline to the anal fin is convex, and thence ascends quite rapidly in a concave curve to the base of the caudal fin. The peduncle behind the anal fin exceeds a seventh of the extreme length, and at the base is equal to about a ninth. The bead is conical in profile, slightly depressed at the nape, and thence nearly straight to the snout. The head from the snout to the opercular spine forms three-tenths of the lengtli, its length being scarcely less than the height of the body. The eyes are moderate, the diameter being Ijetween a finu-tli and a iifth of the head's lengtli. They are distant much more than a diameter from the snout. The anterior margin of the preoperculum advances obliquely downward and for- ward; the pectinate margin is nearly vertical; the distance between the margins near the angle exceeds half the diameter of the eye. The teeth of the posterior margin become stronger toward the angle ; the inferior margiu is weakly serrated along its ])osterior half. The operculum has two spines, separated l)y an obli(pie sinus; the superior one is blunt and almost rounded. The dorsal fin commences at a vertical intermediate between the bases of the pec- toral and ventral fins and is of a triangular form, the fourth ray being the largest and er[ualiiig the length of the pectoral fin; the spines have the same form and arrangement as those of Morone ai)icricana. The second dorsal is connected by a membrane as in Moroiic (iiiirrirdna; its spinous or first ravis little more than half the length (tf the first articulated one, which itself is nearly as long as the fourth dorsal si^ine; the fin thence decreases in height toward its last ray, which is shorter than the .spinous ray. The anal fin connnences under the fourth or fifth articulated ray of the second dors;il, and about four of its rays are posterior to the termination of that fin; the first sj)ine is short and robust; the second almost two and a half times longer, compressed, and very strong; tlie tliird is almost as long as the second, but much more slender. The first articulated ray of the anal is longer than the spines, and about twice as long as the last; the outline of the fin is slightly emarginated. The first ray of the pectoral fin is, as usual, articulated, but simple; the tliird is longest and branched, and equals the Ijase of the second dorsal. The ventrals are aljout as long as the pectorals; the length of the spine is equal to two-thirds of that of the first or second branched rays. The radial fonnula is as follows: 1). IX. I. 12; A. III. 10; C. 4. I. H. 7. 1. .'!; P. 2. 14; V. 1. 5. The scales are of about the same size as in tlie Morone americana, the lateral line REPOKT ON ICnTHYOLOGY. ;599 ninning tlirougli iibout lii'ty bewides tlie sm;illor ones ;it the base of the caudal fin; at the region of its oreatcsst height, there are about nineteen rows, of wliieli about one small and six large ones are above the lateral line and eleven beneath. The relative proportions on the difterent })arts of the body are nearly the same as in that speeies, the chief difference existing on the front of the back, wliere the exposed 2)ortions of the disk are higher and narrower than in M. amerieana. (_)n the cheeks from the orbit to the angles, there are seven oblique rows. Those on the body are mostly higher than long, with the nucleus at alxtut the posterior two-thirds, with numerous radiating, slightly terminally, muricated, riilges advancing posteriorly, and ending in teeth. About seven radiating ridges advance forward, some of them tenninating at the anterior margin within the angles. These are cros.setl by munerous elevated concentric lines, parallel with the margins. The scales on the sides of the head and between the eyes are also i)ectinated like those of the l)ody. The lower jaAv has five pairs of mucous pores as in IF. (iiiicrioiiHi, the fourth pair being- largest and deepest, and under the terminal portion of the maxillaries; thence they regularly decrease in size to the anterior pair, which is on each side of the sym- physis. The fifth pair is at the articulation of the ja\\- with the preoi)ercnlun), and is continued horn the two inferior liorders of that lione. The specimens ])reserved in spirits have a bright, brazen color, tinged on the Ijack with olivaceous. Along- the sides are seven ver}^ distinct longitudinal black bands, through the fourth of which the lateral line runs for its entire length. The continuity of the bands below the lateral line is Interru[)ted at the posterior half of their length, and they there alternate with their anterior parts. The dorsal fins are tinged with pur})le, and the margin of the spinous one is dark. The anal is of a darker purple toward its anterior angle. The caudal, especially pos- teriorly and at its middle, is purple. The rays of the pectoral and ventral fins are yellowish, while the membrane of the former is hyaline, and of the latter sometimes minutely dotted. This species, as will be observed by reference to the synonym}', has been described by Dr. Charles Girard, under the name of Lahrax clivjisops Girard (Pcrca or Lcpihcma chrijsops Raf ), to which is also referred, as a 'synonym, the Lahxax muItlUncnius of Cuvier and Valenciennes, Kirtland, De Kay, and Storer. From that species, it is very distinct, and even belongs to a different genus. Cuvier described the ground- color as a greenish-gray on the back and silvery on the belly. This is not the color of Morone i)ifrrnq)ta, and that species must be therefoi'e distinct from Lahrax mult Hi - ncatiis, nor can it be the Ferea cUnjsopso^ Rafinesque, which is said to be " silver3Mvith five longitudinal brownish stripes on each side", and have the "head brown above". The description of the Perca chri/sops, though erroneous in most respects, is as accurate as Rafinesque's generally are, and agree sufficiently well with Kirtland's Lahrax muUi- Uncatiis, which is dgubtless identical with the Cuvierian speeies. P^ven such an observer as Rafinesque would have noticed the deep bi'azen hue of Morone intcrruiita, and would not have overlooked two of the seven very distinct black bands that run 'along the sides. Dr. Girard has stated that there are but six branchiostegal raj's in his species; but 400 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. I am able to say, from an examination of the specimens used by Dr. Girard himself for description, that it agrees with all allied species in having the normal number of seven, which are de\-eloped as in 3Ioronc amerkana. There are preserved in the uuiseum of the Smithsonian Institution three speci- mens of the Moronc interrui)ta, one of which was obtained by Lieutenant Couch at New Orleans, and two larger ones were found at Saint Louis, Mo., by Dr. George Engehnann. The small specimen from New Orleans differs from the two Missouri specimens by the larger second spine of the anal fin, but in every other respect they are .similar. Family COTTOIDJE, (Rich). Subfamily COTTINiE, (Bon.). Genus POTAMOCOTTUS, Gill. Siinovymii. POTA.MOCOTTUS GUI, Pioc. Bostou Soc. Nat. Hist. COTTUS sji. Agassiz, Lake Superior, Sec. CoTTUS sp. Girard, "Mouograpli of the Cottoids of North America" in Smith.souian Contributions to Knowledge, vol. iii. Bo(Ji/ elongated, anteriorly subcylindrical, and thence declining in height toward the caudal, where it is also much compressed. The skin is perfectly smooth and naked, except sides behind the pectorals. Ifead conical or cuneiform in profile, oval above and depressed, and covered by a naked skin. The preoperculum is armed at its posterior margin with a strong spine, curved upward, and below with one or two smaller ones, or tubercles; the antero- inferior angle of the sub-operculum is also armed with a spine directed forward and downward. The other bones are unarmed. Ei/cs mostly situated in the anterior half of the head ; frontal bones l)etween them of moderate width. Mouth slightly oblique, and Its gape is cpnte large. Teeth villiform on the jaws and vomer as well as palatine bones. Branchial apertnfcs vertical and oblique, entirely separated from each other by a perfect isthmus, as wide or wider than the interval l)etween the bases of the ventrals. There are six branchiostegal rays. Ihrsfd fins two, either entirely separate or connected by a low membrane. The first has from six to nine slender spines. Pectorals rounded, and their rays generalh' unbranched. Ventrals nearly mider the pectorals, and have a spinous and four (rarely three) unbranched rays. The genus Pntamocottus in every respect resembles the Uranidea, except in the presence of a band of villiform teeth on each jialatine bone. Sevei^l species properly referable to this subgenus have been described as true Cotfi. It is equally closely related to the genus Gottopsls of Girard, but is distinguished by its smooth skin. The species named by Girard Cottcipsis (jidosus is a true rottamocottas. The propriety of retaining the species with palatine teeth in the genus Cottus REPORT ON ICHTHYOLOGY. 401 appears to be questionaljle. Dr. Girard, in liis monog-raph of the genus, piil)lislioarbels of the Siluroids. As the above-men- tioned differences are those only which have induced ichthyologists to distribute them, we have no hesitation in bringing the above-named genera together as closely-allied members of the same subfamily. Ahjoma was indeed placed by Dr. Girard among the Chondrostomi, but he was probably led to that act by the consideration of the single row of pharyngeal teeth and the absence of barbels, and not on account of the pres- ence of a cartilaginous sheath enveloping the lower jaw. Girard has expressly stated that the sheath is not one of the essential characters of the group as understood by him. Bleeker was therefore incorrect in placing that genus in a group of which the presence of the cartilaginous sheath was the principal distinction. The following appear to be the distinctive characters of the genera above enumer- ated : The genus Goh'w as admitted ])y Heckel has a compressed and gradually-narrowed head, with the dorsal surface transversely convex, and declining to the snout. The ventral fins are under the anterior rays of the dorsal fin. Tlie scales are large, there being aboiit forty in the typical species along the lateral line. The center of the eye is behind the middle of the head. There are well-developed maxillary barbels. The genus Seniotilits of Rafinesque has a liead miich like that of the Gohiones, but it is usually larger, and declines less toward the snout. The bases of the venti-al fins are more anterior, being almost entirely in advance of the dorsal fin. The scales are comparatively small. The eyes are mostly or altogether in the anterior half of the head. The barbels are also somewhat smaller. The genus Leucosomus of Heckel and Girard is strictly identical with this. In the genus Pogonichthys as now resti-icted, the head is small, compressed, and gradually narrowed to the snout; its dorsal surface is transversely convex, and declines quite rapidly to the prominent snout. The periphery of the jaws is elongated-semi- elliptical. The ventral fins are under the middle of the dorsal. The scales are of moder- ate or rather small size. The eyes are almost entirely situated in the anterior half of the head. The maxillary barbels are small. The genus Platygohio is very nearly allied to Pogonivhthys, l)ut differs from it b}^ its broader head, the width at the occiput being only about a third less than the naked portion i>f its dorsal surface ; the scales are also larg-er. Only one species of Platygohio is known. Numerous specimens were collected on Captain Simpson's expedition. PLATYGOBIO COMMUNIS, Gill. Synonymy. PoooNiciiTiiYS COMMUNIS Girard, Rosoarches upon Cypiiiioid Fishes, (sess. copy, p. 24,) in Proceedings of Academy of Natnral Sciences, vol. viii, p. 188, 185G; Girard, IcliMiyology of Pacific Railroad Reports, p. 247, pi. Iv. The body is elongated, compressed, and gradually decreases in breadth from the head to the caudal fin. The dorsal outline, anterior to the dorsal fin, is slightly curved REPORT ON ICHTHYOLOGY. 409 to the nostril, and posteriorly nearly straight. The abdominal outline from the ven- tral fins to the snout is scarcely curved, and heliind those fins is almost straight. The greatest height of the l)ody immediately anterior to the dorsal fin equ;tls a fifth of the total length from the snout to the emarginated border of the caudal fin, and is twice as great as the width at the same place. The caudal peduncle is of moderate size, the distance between the posterior angle of the anal fin and the insertion of the caudal equaling fifteen hundredths of the total length, the height behind the anal, thirteen hundiedths, and that at the base of the caudal eight hundredths. The head is conical in profile, flattened and depressed above. The projecting, but flattened, muKzle is vertically rounded. The length of the head from the snout to the margin of the operculum forms a fifth of the total ; the upper surface to the scaly nape equals three-fourths of the latter. The width behind equals a ninth of the total length, and at the pupil an eleventh. The eyes are of moderate size, subcircular, entire, lateral, but near the plane of the superior sm-face of the head ; they are situated entirely in the anterior half of the head, the distance of the pupil from the snout equaling two-fifths of the head's length, and the diameter of the eye itself a fifth of the same. The interorbital space is equal to an eleventh of the total length. The dorsal fin commences between the fourth and fifth tenths of the total length fi'om the snout, and is higher than long-. The base equals a tenth of the total length ; the longest ray fourteen hundredths, and the last eight hundredths. The anal fin commences between the sixth and seventh tenths of the length from the head. Its size is less than that of the dorsal, the base equaling eight hundredths of the total length, the longest ray thirteen hundredths, and the last one seven hun- di-edths. The caudal fin is forked, and its lobes are eqvial. The central rays constitute an eighth of the total length, Avhile the longest rays exceed a fifth of the same twenty- one hundi-edths. The pectoral fins are emarginated or subfixlciform ; the longest rays equal a fifth of the length, and are four times longer than the shortest. The ventral fins are inserted beneath the first rays of the dorsal ; the external angles of their bases are distant from each other between six and seven hundredths of the total length. Each fin has a convex margin, and its longest ray equals an eighth of the whole length. The radial formiila is as follows : D. 3. 6. j; A. 3. 6. I; C. 4. I. 7. 8. I. 5 ; P. 1. 15 ; V. 2. 7. The first simple rays of all the fins, except the pectoral, are rudimentary. The scales are of quite large size, there being about fifty perforated for the lat- eral line ; under the dorsal fin, there are six rows above and seven below the lateral line. Each scale is oblong, or sometimes nearly as high as long, vertical at its base, and rounded behind ; there are generally about ten diverging strije, 52 B u 410 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH, Tlie color is reddish-grny or blue on the dorsal region, and on the abdomen is whitish or whitish-yellow. The fins are uniform and colorless. Numerous specimens of this fish were obtained by Mr. McCarthy, the collector of Captain Simpson's expedition, at Green River, Utah, and in the Platte Valley. Family SILUROID^, (Cuv.) Bleeker. SuBPAiiiLY PIMELODIN^, (BoN.). Of this subfamily, there are found representatives of four genera and numerous species in the fresh waters of the United States. These have hitherto, with the ex- ception of the Xoturi, been referred to one genus, and for that genus the name of Piinelodtis has been retained. Now that the Phndodi of Lacepede have been distributed among numerous smaller groups or genera, it remains to ascertain to what gi-oup the name Pifnelodus ought to be restricted, and what names should be applied to the three genera now distin- o-uished among the American Pimehdinre, exclusive of the Noturi of Rafinesque. Lacepfede characterized liis genus Pimdodus simply by the presence of an adipose fin, and included under the name the following species : PREMIER SOUS-GENRE. La nageoire de la queue fourchue ou ^branch^e en croissant : 1. Le Pimelode bagre, Pimehdus hagrus — Bagrm sp. Cuv. zz Galeichthys Gro- novii Val. r= JElnricMhys hagrus B. & G. 2. Le Pimelode chat, Pimehdus fells =z Silunis fells Linn, partim. — Amlurus sp.* 3. Le Pimelode scheilan, Pimelodus clarias Lac. := Synodontls clarlas Cuv. z=. Sy- nodontis arabi Val. = Synodontls sclial Bleeker. 4 Le Pimelode barre, Plmelodtis fasciatus = Platystoma fasciatmn Ag. n Soru- bimn fasclatum Gill. 5. Le Pimelode ascite, Pimelodus ascita = Embryonic young. 6. Le Pimelode argente, Pimelodus argenteus. — Bagrus Herzbergle Val. = Ne- tuma Herzbergle Bleeker. 7. Le Pimelode nceud, Pimelodus nodosus — Arms nodosiis Val. — Aucheniptenis furcatus Val. — Auchenipterus nodosus Mull. & Trosch., Bleeker. 8. Le Pimelode quatre-taches, Pimelodus quadrimaculatus = Hemipimelodus quadrimaculatus Bleeker. 9. Le PiMf:LODE barbu, Pimelodus barhus — Bagrus Commersonii Val. =: Guiritinga Commersonli Bleeker. * The Pimelode chat (Pimelodm felis) of Lac^pfede is chiefly founded on the Silurm felis of Linnsus, and the enu- meration of the rays of the dorsal and anal fins is taken from the Systema Nature, but the mention of the color and partly of the habitat appears to be on the authority of Daubentou and Haay and of Bounaterre. The Siliinta feJis of Linnieus, described on the authority of Dr. Garden as having six barbels and twenty-throe anal rays, and as being allied to the Sihirus Ca'us, can only be an Amiuvus, whose nasal barbels have been overlooked. The species of the Encyclopedists described as being from Cayenne, where it is called Machoiran blattc, Paisani, and Petit Gueule, and whose color is white, is unrecognizable. RErOET ON ICnTHYOLOGY. 411 10. Le Pimklode tac'hetk, Pimelodus viacidatus Lac, Val. = Itlmmdia maculata Bleeker := Pimclodus macuhdus Lao. 11. Le Pimelode bleuatre, Phnehdas crcndcsccns. This species is described as having two barbels above and two below, besides the supramaxillarv ones. It cannot be referred with certainty to any known genus. 12. Le Pimelode doigt-de-negee, Pimdodus nigrodi()Uatus ■=. Arms acutivelis Val. z:z Melanodaciyhts acutivelis Bleeker = Melcmodacti/h(s niffrodiffifatus. 13. Le Pimelode Commeesonien, Pimelodns commcrsoniiz^I'imdodus harhMS luac. ■=.BagrHS coinmcrsonii Val. z= Guiritingu Commersonii Bleeker. 14. Le PiMiiLODE Thunberg, Pimdodus Thimherg := Silunis maculatus Thunberg ■=Silurus ocdlatus Bl., Sclm. z=.Arius ocdlatus Val., Bleeker =i Arius maculatus. 15. Le Pimelode maton, Pimdodus catus :=: Pimdodus catus Val.partimzr ^;H/MrM6' cattis Grill partiiu. 16. Le Pimelode cous, Pimdodus couszrArius cous Heckel z= New genus near Glyptosternum cous. 17. Le Pimelode docmac, Pimdodus docmac zz Bogrus docmac Cuv., Val., Bleeker. 18. Le Pimelode bajad, Pimdodus hajadzzBagrus bajad Cuv., Val., Bleeker. 19. Le PiMJiLODE ERyTHROPTERE, Pimdodus crgthrojiterus zz 3IacroHcs ergthro- pterus. 20. Le Pimelode raie-d'aegent, I'imdodus atherinoides = Pscudeutrojnus atheri- noides Bleeker. 21. Le Pimelode eaye, Pimdodus vittatus zz Bagrus vittatus Val., Bleeker zz Ma- crones vittatus. 22. Le Pimelode mouchete, Pimdodus guttatus — Pimdodus f guttatus Bleeker zz Amiurus f gutata sp. incert. seconde sous-genre. La nageoire de la queue termincie par une ligne di-oite ou aiTondie et sans dchi'ancrure : 23. Le PiMiiLODE CASQUE, Pimelodns galeatus zz: Auchenipterus maculosus Val. — Tracltgcorystes (?) galeatus Bleeker. 24. Le Pimelode chili, Pimdodus chilensis zz Silurus cliilcnsis Linn. In the year 1817, Cuvier published the first edition of his " Rfegne animal", and revised the class of Fishes. He formed a family fof tlie Siluri and allied fishes, to wliicli he gave the name of Siluroides. In this family, he admitted foiu- great genera, Silurus Linn., Malapterurus Lac, Aspredo Linn., and Loricaria Linn. The Siluri were divided into five sections, the second of which was called that of the Machoirans or Mystus. The latter name was erroneously quoted as of Artedi and Linnaeus in his first editions (Arted. et Lin. dans ses premieres editions) ; erroneously, for the name of Mystus does not occur as the designation of a genus in the special Avorks of either of those naturalists.* It was fii'st applied to a genus of Silm'oids by Gronovius in the * It is applied to species of the geuus Pimdodus of Lac^pfcde by Artodi in the great worli of Soba (Locuple- tissimi Renim naturaliura Tliesanri Accurata Descriptio et Iconibns artiticiosis siraus expressio per universam Physices bi»toriam) ; but the third fasciculus, in which the fishes are described, was not published until long after the death of Artedi; and much has apparently been interpolated in that work of which that great ichthyologist was not the author. 412 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. first part of his " Museum Ichthyologicum", wliei'e two species of the genus Bhamdia of Bleeker were refen-ed to it. The name of Mystus would have to be then retained for tliat genus had it not been previously applied by Klein to a genus of Cyjirinoids. The Cuvierian section of Maclioirans included all those Sihiroids which had two dorsal fins, the first of which was rayed and the second adipose. There were conse- quently refeiTcd to it the Pimelodi, Ageneosi, and Dorades of Lacdpfede. The Ma- choirans were again divided into groups, for which were retained the above names of Lacdpfede. Finally, Pimdodns of Laccipfede was itself taken with the limits assigned to it l^y its founder, and divided into three subgenei'a characterized by their dentition. The first of these was Synodontis of Cuvier, which included the third species of the Lac^pedian genus Pimehdus — Le Pimelode scheilan. For the second subgenus, the Lac^pfedian name of Pimehdus was retained. It was intended to include those which had teeth only on the intermaxillaries and den- taries. The third subgenus was named Bagrus, and inchided those which, in addition to the teeth on the jaws, had a parallel band on the vomer. To that genus were referred the first,* fourth, f thirteenth,! seventeenth, § and eighteenth] I species of Lac^pfede's genus Pimehdus. The ninth species of Lacep^de** was considered as synonymous with his thirteenth. To illustrate the sequence and relative value assigned by Cuvier to his various groups, we subjoin the following extract from liis methodical index : Machoirans {Mystus Artedi). PiMELODEs Lacep. Shals {Synodontis Cuv.). PiMELODES PEOPKEMENT DITS {PimehduS CuV.). ' Bagres. Ageneioses Lacep. Doras Lacep. The next naturalist who circumscribed the genus was Rafinesque. That writer, in the " Ichthyologia Ohiensis",* retained Pimehdus as the name of a genus, and the characters assigned by him to it were not essentially different from those of Lacdpede; he added that the adipose fin is separated from the caudal. By that feature, he distin- guished the genus from his Noturi, in which tliere is an "adipose fin very long, decur- rent, and united with the tail". The species of the Ohio referred to the genus so limited were placed in a subgenus called Ictalurus, which exactly corresponds to Pimehdus as restricted by Dr. Girard in the Report on the Ichthyology of the Pacific Railroad Surveys. The diagnosis of Icta- * Pimelodus bagrus Lac. = AUuriehihys hagrus Gill. t Pimelodus faadatiis Lac, = Sorubinm fasciaium Gill. t Pimelodus co7)imcrsonii Lac. = Guiritinga commcrsonii Bleeker. 5 Pimelodus docmac Lac. = Bagrus docmac Cuv. II Pimelodus liayad Lac. = Bagrus bayad Cuv. ** Pimelodus barbus Lac. REPORT ON ICHTHYOLOGY. 413 lurHS j?iven by Rafinesque is, perhaps, the best description of a genus given in liis work, and is thought worthy of being copied: "Head depressed, with eight ]nirhs, one at each corner of the mouth, longer than the others, four under the chin, and two on the snont behind the nostrils. Teeth in two patches, acute and file-shaped. Pectoral fins and first dorsal fin armed with an anterior spine. First dorsal trapezoidal and before the abdominals; second opposite the anal. Body compressed behind, vent posterior and sub-medial. Operculum simple." By the above limitation, the subgenus Ictalurus is seen to partly correspond with that of rimchdus of Cuvier, the teeth being said to be in two patches or only on the jaws. By the description of the condition and position of the fins and the number of barbels, it includes only a small section of the Cuvierian subgenus. The name Ictalurus must be then reserved for some of our Siluroids — for all, if they should be found to be congeneric — for a section, if it is ascertained that several genera are embraced iiuder the subgenus. Our studies of the Siluroids have con\anced us that there are four natural genera found in the United States, three of which were included by Rafinesque in his sub- genus Ictalurus, but placed at the same time in sections, which received from him various scientific names. The sections established by Rafinesque were chiefly characterized by the form of the "tail" or caixdal fin, and of the eyes, and the number of rays in the abdominal or ventral fins. The first section was named Elliops, and included fishes with the "tail forked. Eyes elliptical. Abdominal fins with less than nine rays." This group exists in nature, and is of generic value, but the characters given by Rafinesque are not those which essentially characterize it, nor can the name Elliops be retained for it. The name given to a group as a whole must be preserved, and if that group is divided into sections, one of those sections must retain the name of the greater group In Rafinesque's system, Ictalurus is the greater group, and in it are included all the North American Fimelodi, with the exception of Noturus. When Rafinesque divided that group into sections, he should, therefore, have still retained that name for one of them. Such has not been done, but upon each of his sections was conferred another name. As this is in opposition to the rules of nomenclature, Ictalurus must be restored to one of lus sections, and it is advisable to retain it for his first, and reject the name of Elliops. The section with this name is now accepted as a genus; its diagnosis will be hereafter given. The name Pimelodus, it is true, was apjjlied to all the Ictaluri, and by that name only are they called. If Pimelodus had been of Rafinesque's creation, that name should, therefore, have been adopted; but as Rafinesque has only taken it from La- cepede, with the characters given to it by its founder, it is to be supposed that he intended it to be otherwise restricted. It appears to us that it is no valid argument against the acceptation of Rafinesque's names for genera, if his sections should prove to be such, that he did not apply them specifically. The section called Elliops, on comparison with its type Pimelodus cosrulescens of 414 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Rafinesque (not Lac^pfede), has been fonnd to be identical Avith Syneclioglanis of Gill. The most essential characteristics of that genus had been omitted by the former natu- ralists who had described its species. The present author, not willing to believe that such was the case, although recognizing the similarity of external appearance between the type of Syneclioglanis and the Pimelodus coBrulescens, described it under the new generic name. When an opportunity was at length offered to examine species of the group typified by Pimelodus coarnlescens, its generic identity with Syneclioglanis was evident. We have, therefore, renounced our own name, ixnder which the genus was first truly characterized, and adopt the prior designation of Rafinesque, but, instead of Ellio})s, take the name Icfalurus, as previously mentioned. This second section of Rafinesque's Ictaluri was named Leptops, and is charac- terized by the "tail bilobed. Eyes round and very small. Nine abdominal rays Vent posterior. Adipose fins large." In this section, two nominal species were included, the Pimelodus viscosus of Ra finesque and his Pimelodus nebidosus. The latter was "said to be totally different from the foregoing, and might perhaps form a peculiar section or even subgenus {Opladelus), by the conical head, membranaceous operculum, but particularly, because the first rays of all the fins, except the caudal and adipose, is a kind of soft obtuse spine con- cealed under the fleshy cover of the fins." Rafinesque's assertion that his Pimelodus nebulosus was "totally different" from the Pimelodus viscosus has neither been substantiated by his own description, nor by the observations and explorations of Dr. Kirtland in the same waters as those in which Rafinesque himself pursued his investigations. The Pimelodus nehulosus and viscosus were doubtless varieties of the same species. The descriptions are mutually ap- plicable to each other, except in those cases where the characters given are evidently fictitious or erroneous, which, indeed, are very frequent. Rafinesque's fourth section is founded on a species, which, according to Dr. Kirt- land, is the adult of the Pimelodus viscosus of Rafinesque. The section is characterized as having the "Tail entire, eyes elliptical. Nine abdominal rays. Dorsal fins sub- medial. Pectoral fins with one flat spine serrated outwards and nine rays. Lower jaw longer." The only species of this section was named Pimelodus limosus. The section in question was designated by the name Ilictis. The name, however, should have been spelled Ilyiclithys, in accordance with its thymology and the rule observable for the composition of names. Rafinesque has named "a genus" Pylodictis, whichap'pesiYsto have been also founded on the same fish that had already been three times indicated in his work. The ficti- tious genus and species were established only on the evidence of a drawing by Mr. Audubon, of a fish "found in the lower parts of the Ohio and in the Mississippi". That drawing, according to Rafinesque, represented a i-ayed fin instead of the usual adipose dorsal. Such a feature would be in opposition to that general plan on which naked Siluroids with two dorsals are constructed,* and it is therefore certain that Audubon * The gonus Phraotocephalus of Agassiz forms no exception to this. A mistake similar to that made by Audubon or Rafiues/i/»ii/. NoruKis llaf. Aniciiian Montlily Magazine and Critical Review, vol. iv, p. 41, Nov., 1818. NoTl'Ki'S liaf. Prodiomc do 8oizante-dix nouvciux Genres d'Animanx di^coiiverts dans I'iut^rieiir des Etats-Unis en 1813 ill Journal de I'hysique, vol. Ixxxviii, p. 421, June, 1819. NoTt'Ri.'.s fto/. lelithyologia Ohion.sis, or Natural History of tln5 Fishes inhabiting the River Ohio an.l its tributary streams, p. C7; ib. in Western Review and Miscellaneous Magazine, vol. — , p. 301, July, 18"20. Nonius llaird, Iconograiihic Encyclopa'diaof Science, Literature, and Art, vol. i, Zoology, p. 21(5. Sciiii.BKdiDKS lihekci; Ichtbyologi* Archipelagi Indici Prodromns, vol. i, Siluri (Acta Societatis Scientiarum Iudo_ Nederlaudici^ vol. iv), p. '2!i8. Sii.UKi'S sp. itikhill, American Monthly Magazine and Critical Review, vol. i, p. 281), and vol. ii, p. 322. Body moderately elongated, anteriorly subcylindrical, and thence more or less compressed. Head large, elongated, conic or cuneiform in pi'ofile, above ovate and depressed, with a slight longitudinal furrow, branching into a transverse depression on the nape. The skin is very thick, and entirely conceals the bones. The supra-occipital has no connection with the head of the second interspinal. Eyes of small or moderate size. Mouth anterior, large, and transverse. The upper jaw projects beyond the lower. Teeth subulate, and closely aggregated in a broad band in each jaw, which, in the lower one, is interrupted by a linear interval, and in the upper one is continuous; the band of the upper jaw is either abruptly truncated at each end, or prolonged backward by a continuation from the postero-external angle. The lower band is, as usual, attenuated toward the corners of the mouth. Branchiostegal membrane witli nine rays on each side. Dorsal fin situated over the posterior half of the interval between the pectoral and ventral fins, with a very pungent, slioi-t, edentulous spine, and seven branched rays. Adipose fin long and low, connected with the accessory rays of the caudal fin, and not forming a separate fin. Caudal fin very obliquely truncate or rounded, and inserted on an equally obli(|uely rounded base; the rays rapidly decrease in length inferiorly, and there ai-e numerous rudimentary ones, both above the caudal peduncle, where the anterior is united to the adii)0se fin and forms a continuous keel, and below, where they advance considerably forwards. The anal fin is comparatively short, and rapidly increases in height for the first half of its length. The ventrals are rounded, and each has one simple and eight branched rays. 422 EXPLOEATIO^^S ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH'. The anus is situated some distance in advance of the anal fin. The Noturi are at once recognized by the peculiarly-formed caudal fin and its oblique insertion on the peduncle, and by the ovate head, witli the transversely-depressed nape and median longitudinal groove. For our earliest information of a species of this genus, we are indebted to Dr. Samuel L. Mitchill; but the description of tliat naturalist is incorrect, or, at least, his interpretation of the characters observed is erroneous. Subsequent naturalists have, therefore, been much deceived as to its affinities. The principal error in Mitchill's description is the assertion of the absence of an adipose fin. But this statement is readily i-econciled with the features of Noturus when it is remembered how low that fin is, and how it unites with the caudal. ]\Iitcliill drew attention to the peculiarity of the caudal, and described it as com- mencing an inch behind the dorsal fin, and thence "continued quite round the tail, and almost to the anal fin. The form is lanceolated and pointed," and "it may be compared to the tail of an eel; the resemblance is nearer to that of a tadpole, when it approaches the period of conversion to a frog." The peculiarities thus noticed and the rest of Mitchill's description leave no doubt as to the true affinities of the Silurus gijrmus, and as to the correctness of Rafinesque in afterward referring it to his genus Noturus. Mitchill observed that "the want of serra* to the spines, and of a second dorsal might lead some to remove this fish from the Siluri fiimily ; but to avoid needless innovation, I retain him here." Mitchill, Avhen inditing that remark, must have for- gotten that the type of Silurus was without an adipose fin, and that the presence of Biich a fin was consequently an exceptional rather than a normal character of the Linnsean genus, although the greater portion of its species were provided with it. The want of serra?. to the spines is not of as nuicli value as Mitchill supposed. Dr. De Kay, in his Fauna of New Yoi'k, introduced Mitchill's description of Silurus (jyrinus at the end of the suite of the Fimelodi of the State described In his work, and remarked that "on account of its dorsal spine it cannot be admitted into that genus " (Silurus Val.) ; and the same spine being smooth, and not serrated, ex- cludes it from Schilbe. Its natiu-al position in a general arrangement of the Siluriclcc would seem to be between Sehiihe and Ccto2)sis, forming a passage, by Its simply spinous anterior dorsal and pectoral ray, from one to the other. It may be thus characterized: "No adipose fin; simple spines to the dorsal and pectoral; anal long; caudal pointed, not united to the anal." Important details respecting the teeth are wanting to complete the character. Having already noticed the true relationship of Silurus (jyriitus, it necessarily follows that there is no near affinity betAveen it and the genera noticed by De Kay. The description of Mitchill and the remarks of Dr. De Kay have also led Dr. Bleeker into error. That learned ichthyologist, in his Monograph of the Siluri, has formed a distinct genus for the Silurus gyrinus, which he has named Schilbeodes, and which is interposed between Hcmatogenys of Girard and Triclioinycterus of Cuvier and Valenciennes, in the subfamily of Siluriclithyoidci and the group of Trichomycterini. Bleeker's oreneric characters are the following: EEPORT ON ICHTnYOLOGY. 423 "ScJiilbcodcs Bleeker.* I'iinia dorsalis cautlali qiuun capiti approximata; anali.s caudali contigua. Cirri 8." The diagnosis relating to the dorsal fin is erroneous. Mitchill not having- men- tioned the position of that fin, Bleeker must have assumed that the caudal was not much more than normally extended on the dorsal region of the peduncle, and, noticing- the statement concerning the connnencement of the fin an inch behind the dorsal, was thus misled. The remarks we have made on De Kaj-'s allocation of the species apply equally to Blocker's. The piiblicatiou of Rafinesque's diagnosis of the genus Noturus soon succeeded Mitchill's description of his Siliinis gyrimis. Rafinesque's first notice of his genus is to be found in volume fuurth of the "American Monthly Magazine and Critical Re- view". It is there said to "differ from Silurus by having the second dorsal connected with the tail, or forming a single fin". The description of the single species (Nohirns flavKs) refers only to the color, the caudal fin, lateral line, superior length of upper jaw, the barbels, and the number of rays, most of which are generic characters. Rafinesque's next description occurs in his "Prodrome de soixante dix nouveaux genres d'animaux, &c.", and is substantially the same as that in the Magazine. As the work in which the "Prodi-ome" is published is inaccessible to most American students, we add the description in a note.* The name of the species is changed by Rafinesque to Noturus luteus. The genus is for the third time described by Rafinesque in the "Ichthyologia Ohiensis". It is there said to "differ from the genus Plofosus of Lacepede by ha^^ng the anal fin free", although there is really no connection between the two genera. The remainder of the description differs little from those previously noticed. The specific name of Noturus flavus is restored to the species. NOTURUS OGCIDENTALIS, Gill. The greatest height is equal to nearly a sixth of the total length, and less than the greatest breadth outside of the bases of the pectorals. The height of the caudal peduncle behind the anal fin slightly exceeds a tenth of the length. The head is subcuneiform in profile, and above presents an oval form ; at the cheeks behind the eyes it appears to be swollen. The length of the head enters less than four times (0.23) in the total length. The breadth at the opercula nearly equals a fifth of the entire length ; that between the cheeks behind the eyes is about the same. The distance between the eyes equals a tenth of the length, and is of nearly the same extent as that between each eye and the middle of the snout. The eyes them- selves are small, a diameter not much exceeding a seventh of the head's length. * Bleeker's work not being readily accessible to American students, we extract bis remarks iu Dutcb,whicb, we must again remind tbe reader, are founded on error. "Silurus gyrinus, door Mitcbill en 1818 reeds kortelljk docU onvoldoende beschreveu, korut mij voor tot de Tricbo- mycterini te behooven. De rngvin scbijut er sell rodert bij de stoortvin te zijn don bij de^u kop en de aarsvin zon en zeer nabij de stoart vin eicdigen. Overigens 8 voeldroden, 7 rugvin en 16 aarsvinstralen. Misscheen een midden vorm tusscben Tricbomycterus en Nematogenys." "18. NoTURCS. (Abdominal) diflf^rent des genres 5i7HrHs et Pimelodiis par nageoire caudale d^currente sur le dos jusque vis-i-vis I'anus, et tenant lieu de deux nageoires dorsales adipeuses. N. htteus, corps conique comprim^e, tfite d^prim^e, 8 barbillons, micboire supiSiieure iilus longue, nageoires dorsale et jjectorales, queue tronqu^e, ligne latdrale prosque droite, couleur entiferement jaumltre. D. 7 ; A. 14; P. 7; Abd. 8. C'est uue petite espiice : les barbillons sont disposes comme dans les Pimelodes de I'Ohio. Le SiJurits gyj'inus de Mitcbill est una autre espfece de ce genre. 424 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIX OF UTAH. The maxillary barbels are slender and scarcely attain to the bases of the pectorals. The nasal barbels extend slightly behind the eyes. The inframaxillary are an-anged on a curved line parallel with the jaAV ; the internal are nnich more distant from each other than those of one side; the external are about a tenth of the total leng'th ; the internal about six or seven tenths as long- as the external. The band of teeth on the intemiaxillaries is extended backward from the angles into a point. There are nine branchiostegal ra}s concealed in- a verj- tliick membrane. The bottom of the simis of the membrane is very near the mental, the fold being nearl}' at the end of the third fourth of the diiitance between the lower jaw and the sinus. The dorsal tin commences at the beginning of the third tenth of the distance from the snout to the end of the caudal fin. Its length equals a tenth of the length, and is little less long than high. The spine is small and simple, and its length scarcely equal half that of the fin. The adipose fin is low and thin, begins nearly over the sixth or seventh ray of the anal, and appears, in the single specimen before us at least, to have separated from the accessory rays by a naked interval. The anal fin commences at the end of the eleventh twentieth of the distance be- tween the snout and end of caudal fin. Its length is not quite equal to a sixth of the total length ; it rapidly increases in height toward the middle, where it somewhat exceeds an eleventh of the extreme length. The last rays rapidl}^ decrease in size. The pectoral fins equal in length an eighth of the total; each has a spine, which enters about eleven times in the length, and which is smooth internall}', Init on its external border has long serrae. The margin of the fin is rounded. The coracoid spine is short, stout, and oblique. The ventral fins commence behind the end of the fourth tenth of the length; each has a length equal to a tenth of the extreme. The caudal fin is oblong, gradually and obliquely nai-rowed to the end, Avhicli appears to ha;A'e been nearly truncated. The supenuunerary rays are numerous and well developed, the distance from the anterior to the end of the peduncle being almost as great as the length of the longest rays. The number and arrangement of the rays is expressed by the following fonnula: D. I. G. i; A. 4. 11. I; C. 23. 7. 12. 11 ; P. 1. 1.0; V. 1. 8. The color of the single ill-preserved specimen is an olivaceous-brown, light be- neath, and with the fins not margined by a darker color. This species of Notunis was collected by Dr. Suckley in the Platte River. It is interestmg as being a species of a genus which does not appear to be rich in repre- sentatives, and as coming from a more western locality than any other. KEPOKT ON lOnTHYOLOGY, 425 IIOPLADELUS, (Raf.) Gill. Synonymy. Gi.ANis Uaf. MSS. American Monthly Magazine anil Critical Review, vol. iv. LKi'Tors Raf. Ichthyolosia Ohiensis, p. Gl. Opladem'S Saf. Iclitliyologia Ohiousis, p. G4. Ilictis Uaf. IclitIiyolor;ia Ohiensis, p. 6G. rvi^omcTis Raf. Icbtliyologia Ohionsis, p. 07. ICTALURUS sp. Raf. PlMKLOlU'.s sp. KirHaiid, auct. Tlie body is much elongated, and jwesents in profile a very slender appeai-ance. It is much depressed, and is anteriorly broader than high. The head is large, very wide and depressed, laterally expanded, above Ijroadly ovate, and in profile cimeiform. The skin is very thick and entirely conceals the skull. The supra-occipital bone is entirely free from the head of the second interspinal. The eyes are small. The mouth is large, anterior, and transverse. The lower jaw projects beyond the upper. The teeth are in broad villiform bands on the intermaxillaries and dentaries. The intermaxillary band is convex anteriorly, and proceeds to the insertion of the maxil- laries, where it is abruptly angularly deflected, and proceeds backward as elongated triangular extension. The band at the symphysis is slightly divided, and anteriorly separated by a small triangular extension of the labial membrane. The lower dental band is anteriorly semi-circular, and attenuated to the corners of the mouth. There are about twelve branchiostegal rays on each side. The dorsal fin is situated over the posterior half of the interval between the })ec- torals and ventrals, and has a spine and about seven branched rays. The adipose fin is well developed, and has an elongated base resting over the posterior half of the anal ; it is very obese, and inclines rapidly backward. The anal fin commences far behind the anus, is little longer than high, and com- posed of about fifteen rays. The caudal fin is oblong, subtruncated, placed on a vertical basis, and with numerous accessory, simple rays, recm-rent above and beneath the caudal peduncle. The pectorals have a broad, compressed spine, serrated or dentated on its external and internal margins, and with the prolonged fleshy integument obliquely striated. The ventrals are rounded, and have nine rays, one simple and eight branched. The anus is situated behind the ventrals, some distance behind their bases, and much in advance of the anal fin. The genus Hopladdiis is at first sight distinguished by its elongated and anteriorly- depressed body; the depressed and broad oblong head; the bands of very small villiform teeth, and the })osterior extension of the upper bands; the small size of the anal, its distance behind the anus, and the recurrence of the caudal fin. But one species is certainly known. 54 B u 426 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF DTAU. HOPLADELUS OLIVARIS, GiLL. Sijno)iijmij. SiLURUS OLiVARis Eaf. American Mouthly Magazine and Critical Review, vol. iii, p. 355, Sept., 1818. Gi-ANis UMOSUS Baf. loc. cit. vol. iii, p. 447 (Oct. 1818), and vol. iv, p. 107 (withont description). SiLURUS KBBULO.SUS Baf. Journal of the Royal Institution, vol. is, p. .SO, April, 18'iO. SiLURUS viscosus Raf. loc. cit. p. 50. SiLURUS LIMOSUS Baf. loc. cit. p. 51. I'l.MELODUS VISCOSUS Baf. Ichthyolo};ia Oliiensis, p. 64, Jnly, 1820. riMELODUS NEBULOSUS Baf. Iclithyologia Obiensis, p. G4. PiMELODUS LIMOSUS Baf. Icbthyologia Obiensis, p. 66. Tylodictis LIMOSUS Baf. Icbtbyologia Obiensis, p. 67. PiMELODUS ruNCTUL.\TUS VoX. Hist. Nat. des Poissons, vol. xv, p. 134, 1840. PiMELODUS ^NEUS Val. Hist. Nat. des Poissons, vol. xv, p. 135 (abstract). PiMELODUS PUKCTUL.VTUS De Kaij, Zoology of New York Fishes, p. 187 (abstract), 1842. PiMELODUS ^SEUS De Kay, Zoology of New York Fisbes, p. 187 (abstract). PiMELODUS PUNCTULATUS Storer, Synopsis of Fishes of North America, p. 151 ; ib. in Memoirs of American Academy. vol. ii (abstract), 1846. PiMELODUS .SKEUS StorcT, loc. cit. (abstract). PiMELODUS LIMOSUS Siorcr, Synopsis of Fishes of North America, p. 152 ; ib. in Memoirs of American Academy, vol- ii (abstract). PiMELODUS LI5I0SUS Kirtlaiid, Boston Journal of Nat. Hist. vol. vi, p. 335, 1846. The body is greatly elongated, and from a lateral view appears to be very slender, slowly diminishing in height toward the caudal ; above, it is very much depressed anteriorly, and is rapidly attenuated toward the caudal. The greatest height in front of the dorsal tin is about a seventh of the entire length, while that of the caudfil peduncle behind the anal and adipose fins equals a half of the greatest, or a fourteenth of the length. The width at the base of the pectorals is about a third greater than the heigth, and equals a fifth of the length; thence it rapidly diminishes to the caudal peduncle, which, at the base of the fin, is very thin and compressed. Tlie head, from the projecting lower jaw to the membranous opercular margin, forms little more than a fourth of the entire length. In profile, is elongated conical, or cuneiform, the extreme height at the pectorals being a half of the head's length. Above, the head is oblong, and very flat and depressed. The greatest width equals a fifth of the entire length of the fish, and the eyes a sixth of the same. The sides of the head are slightly convex; otherwise the width nearly equally diminishes to the snout, which is wide and truncated. The eyes are oval and small, the longest diameter not exceeding a tenth of the length of the head. Their distance from a transverse line parallel with the front of the snout equals three diameters. The interval between each other equals half of the greatest width of the head. Seen from above, they appear to lie distant about a diameter from the side of the head. The maxillary barbels are small and slender, compressed at their base, and with the internal edge rounded. They vary in length, but do not generally much exceed half the length of the head. In one, the barbel on the left side extends to the base of the pectoral. The nasal barbels extend to about the posterior margin of the eye. The inframaxillary ones form the four angles of a transversely-elongated hexagon; the distance between the internal ones is nearly a sixth of the head's length, and that between the external ones exceeds a third of the same (2"^). The latter are about half as long as the maxillary, and about twice as long as the internal ones. KEPORT ON ICBTHYOLOGY. 427 The brandiiosteg-al bones appear to amount to twelve on each side; the two internal are wide and compressed and much lar<^er than the others. The branchiostegal membrane is deepl)', and when not extended appears to be acutely, emarginated, the emargination extending to the vertical of the posterior border of the eye. The mem- brane is attached to the throat to within a short distance of the bottom of the emargiim- tlon. The mental fold is considerably nearer the latter than the jaw. The dorsal fin connuences at three-tenths of the length from the snout over the posterior half of the interval between the bases of the pectorals and ventrals. Its base is equal to about a t^velfth of the fish's length, and equals four sevenths of the gi-eatest height. The spinous ray is moderate, and not more than half as long as the second articulated or longest ra)'; it is entirely enveloped in the skin, and no serratures cau be perceived; the skin in which the spine is imbedded is considerably prolonged, compressed, antl obliqiiely rayed or striated. The adipose fin is elongated, subrhomboidal, advancing slowly outward and backward, very thick at the base, and compressed toward the margin, which is some- times jagged; it is situated over the last two-thirds of the anal fin, and coterminal with it. The anal fin connuences at nearly six tenths of the distance between the snou:^ and caudal margin; its length is almost equal to a tenth of the same, and its greatest height to a ninth. The rays rapidly increase in length to the middle ones, which are longest. The rays, especially anteriorly and at the base, are enveloped in a thick fat skin. The 2>ectorals are situated immediately behind the descending opercular marg-in at less than a quarter of the length. AVhen open, they are horizontal. The four, or longest rays, inclusive of the membranous termiuation of the spinous one, are nearly equal to a seventh of the entire length. The compressed spine is about half as long as tlie succeeding rays, and is anteriorly provided with ridges rather than teeth, and posteriorly with tubercular teeth. The membrane continued from it is cotemiiual with the three succeeding rays, and is striated obliquely forward and interiorly. The ventral fins commence at the fourth tenth of the length; their bases, if con- tinued backward, would intersect each other at right angles, but the distance by which they are separated behind is nearly equal to their base. Their margins are rounded, and the longest rays are about an eleventh of the length. The)^ cease some distance before the anal fin. The anus is situated Ijetween the ventrals, at a distance in advance of the anal fin equal to a twelfth of the total length; its margin is radiated by ridges. The genital papilla is small and behind. The caudal fin is scarcely emarginate, and has a straight base; the shortest ra3's form fifteen hundredths of the total length, and the longest equal sixteen hundredths. Numerous simple rays, enveloped in a very fat skin, are continued on the superior and inferior faces of the peduncle. The radial formula may be expressed as follows: D. I. 5. 4; A. 2. 12. 1; C. 20. 1. 7. 8. 1. 10; P. 1. !); V. 1. S. 428 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. The lateral line is decurreut downward from the angle of the branchial apertures and thence continned along the middle in a straight line to the base of the caudal fin. The skin is thick, and completely covers the skull, where it has a spongy or wrinkled appearance. The color is brownish-fawn on the head, blotched with lighter and darker on the trunk, and on the caudal peduncle inclining to reddish. The lower barbels are whitish, like the abdomen and infeiior surface of the head. The Hopladehis oJirar'/s, as will be seen by reference to the synon^-my, has had the fortune of being descril:)ed under a large number of names. As several bestowed by the same authors have been brought together as synonymous, the reasons for so doing will be naturally demanded. For most of the synou}Tns, we are indebted to Rafinesque, a man that never touched a subject without involving it in confusion. It will therefore excite little sur- prise to hear that he has described the same species under six different names, and refen-ed it to four different groups, to which he has given five generic names. The Sihoiis oliraris described by Rafinesque in the third volume of the American Monthly Magazine and Critical Re^-iew, p. 355, has been pronounced Iry Rafinesque himself to be the same as his Fi»ieIodus nehidosus, and is consequently the Plmdodiis Umosus of Kirtland. It is described as folloAvs: "Body olivaceous, shaded with brown, S whole barbs, 4 beneath, 2 lateral thick brown, dorsal fin with 7 soft rays, pectoral fin 10 soft rays, anal fin 12 rays, tail rounded notched, teeth acute." The above diagnosis, wath the exception of those parts relating to the color, num- ber of rays in the anal fin, and form of caudal fin, is applicable to most of the IcUduri. The color is not inapplicaljle to the HopladeJas ; the number of anal rays agrees as well Avith that species as with Kotunis, and the allusion to the caudal, while it excludes Xofiirm, is referable to Ilopladclus. The teeth of Hopladehis are not, however, well desci-ibed by the term acute. But as the diagnosis does not suit any other species better, it is doubtless apidicable to that one. The difference in the enumeration of the anal rays is probabl}" due to the difficulty of counting them in the thick skin in which they are enveloped. At page 447 of the same volume of the Magazine, and at page 107 of the fom-th volume, the name of Glanis Umosus, or ]\Iud Catfish, occurs ; but there is no description. The species intended is undoubtedly that afterward described as Piflodkfis Umosus, to the subsequent remarks on which Ave refer. Rafinesque has liest described it under the name of Fimchdiis Umosus. The descrip- tion is quite creditable to him, as only one serious error occurs. It is stated that there is no lateral line ; but there is certainly one present, as in all our North American species. In other respects, the description is sufficiently characteristic, and the number of rays in the anal fin is con-ectly said to be fifteen. No mention is, however, made of the much depressed head and bod}', the latter being simply described as "slender". The species is said to difter "from all others by the long lower jaw, &c.", and to attain a length of "aboixt one foot". KEPOET ON ICHTHYOLOGY. 429 The rimehdiis v'iscosks of Ivafinesque, the type of his section Leptops, appears to l)e tlie young of HoplmJchts oVwaiis. It is said to liave a length of "only ionv inches", and its color is "brown with bluish and grayish shades covered Avith a clammy viscos- ity". The head is described as being "very Hat, Avith a longitudinal furrow above, elongated"; the "anal has fifteen rays and the ventrals nine". Except as to the cephalic fuirow, the description so far is not inconsistent with the lIoplaiMns oVtoaris, but the jaws are said to be "nearly equal" and "the upper hardly longer". This as well as the furrow on the head and the number of rays in the anal fin might tempt us to believe that it was the Noim-us, but the caudal fin is said to be "unequally bilobed, tlie upper smaller and white, and the ventrals have nine rays". It is therefore doubt- fully treated as identical with the Ilopladrhis until the researches of a naturalist shall show otherwise. It is not mentioned by Dr. Kirtland. With some doubt, we yield to the opinion of Dr. Kirtland that the Fhndodus nchn- losufi of Ivafinesque is th(! old of P. Ihnosiis. The species is said to attain a length of from two to four feet. The description is certainly not very characteristic; the species is said to differ from the former by "the conical head, membranaceous operculum, but particularly because the first ray of all the fins, except the caudal and adipose, is a kind of soft obtuse spine, concealed under the fleshy cover of the fins". On account of these diff'erences, it is suggested that the species may belong to a "peculiar section or even sub-genus", for which the name of Opladelus is proposed. No description of the operculum or spines of Flmelodus vlscosus is given; it is probable that the notes on the two "species" were taken at different times, and that Eafincsque's attention being arrested by the characters mentioned, and not believing that they could have been overlooked by him in the FimcJodm vlscosus, assumed that a difference existed. It is strange that the jaAvs should be described as equal, the head simply as "conical depressed", and the body as "conical tapering behind",* and, were not such statements made by an author proverbial for inaccuracy, we might well be excused for believing in the identity of rimchdus nehidosits with a species like the present. The assertion that there are only twelve anal rays may be explained by the subsequent statement that all "the fins are very fat, thick, &c." The eyes of Phiielo- dits nehidosus, as of P. vlscosus, are said to be round and small; those of our Hopladc- lus are elliptical. By Dr. Kirthmd, the riiiiclodus nehuhsus is considered as "merely the old" of Flmelodus llmosus. lie further remarks that " it is much larger, and proportionally shorter and broader, than the one figured (P. llmosus). I have never seen the young- unless our })resent species be considered as such." The Sllurus olUmrls previously mentioned is referred by Rafinesque to his Flme- lodus nehuhsus. Placing much confidence in Dr. Kirtland's judgment, A\'e have followed him in regarding Flmelodus llmosus and F. ?iclndosus as identical, but the remark regarding the difference of form excites some suspicion as to his correctness. The degree of differ- ' R.ilinesfine probaljly intended to be understood as referring to tlio "couical " outline of the head as seen from the side, and the depressed dorsal surface. The mention of the body as " couical tapering behind " also doubtless refers to the lateral view. 430 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. ence is uot mentioned ; Dr. Kirtland would, of course, have noticed the characters mentioned by Rafinesque, if they were more tlian imaginary. As no other species of Ictaluroid, except the Ilopladehis oUvaris and Koturas, with fifteen anal rays or tliereabouts, has been discovered in the Ohio River by the researches of Dr. Kirtland, we nnist, for the present at least, regard Rafinesque's descriptions of Fimelodus vlscosus as Avell as of Piniehdus nehnhsits having been based on one of them ; they agree best with the Ilopladelus. The PyJodictis Umosus, named by Rafinesque from a drawing- of Audubon, appears to be also founded on this species. It agrees tolerably Avell with the Ilopladelus, except in the absence of the lateral line, the position of the dorsal over the abdominal fins, and the rayed second dorsal. Audubon probably omitted the lateral line, or did not represent it very distinctly ; there is certainly no American Siluroid without it. The last rays of the dorsal being nearly over the bases of the ventrals, the statement, con- sidering the author of it, sufficiently approximates to the fact. The edge of the adipose of HopladeJus is frequently jagged or torn, and, being so re])resented by Audubon, appeared to Rafinesque to be rayed. It is stated that the species " sometimes reaches the weight of twenty pounds" and "bears the names of Mud Cat, Mud Fish, Mud Sucker, and Toad Fish", names which increase the evidence in favor of the identity of Rafinesque's Pimchdus Umosus and Pylodidis Umosus. The descriptions given by Rafinesque in his Monograph of the Siluri of the Ohio are all referred to the above species by their author. In the twelfth volume of the " Ilistoire Naturelle des I'oissons", Valenciennes describes a species as Pimelodus ininctuMus, which appears to be also identical with the Hopladelus. Specimens had been sent from New Harmony and from New Orleans by Lesueur. It is said to have the form of the Pimelodus catus, but with a shorter anal ; the lower jaw is the longer ; the head very much depressed, and forming a quarter of the entire length, and a fifth longer than wide ; the maxillary IjarJjels reach the middle of the operculum ; the ossified part of the pectoral spine is half the length of the fin, has its borders serrated in opposite directions, and is prolonged in a soft and articulated point. There are twelve branchiostegal rays and sixteen anal. The color is brown, dotted with black and with irregular black blotches. The description of Valenciennes answers in every respect to the Hopladelus, except as to the number of ventral rays, which is said to Ije eight. As in every other feature it is applicable to our species, there may have been some mistake in the enumeration, or perhaps even an abnormal variety. It appears to be at least proper to consider the Pimelodus imnctulatus for the present as identical with the Hopladelus. The description of Pimelodus (cneiis of Lesueur is next abstracted, and Valenci- ennes remarks that, except as to fonn and the number of rays, it agrees with his Pimelodus punctuhdus ; he himself remarks that the diff"erence in the number of rays might be explained by the difficulty which the thick membrane in which the raj's are enveloped would present to an exact computation. As to form, he objects that the phrase applied to the Pimelodus (cneus, — "ale corps tres-long", — is not applicable to the Pimelodus imnctulatus, of which the head enters only four times in the length. To this we would answer that the head of Hopladelus is certainly only a foiu-th of the length, KEIIOKT ON icnxnYOLOGY. 431 but that from the little height of the l)Otly the idea derived from a side-view is tliat the body is very slendei', and the character of " corps tros-long " is, therefore, quite appro- priate. Valenciennes jirobably did not take this foct into consideration when he observed, in his description oi I'imelodus punctulatus, that the form was like that of the Pimelodus catus. We have thus tmited many nominal species. In considerino- the species of Rafi- nesque as identical, we have very little hesitation. We have much with regard to those of Lesueur and Valenciennes, and it might, perhaps, have been better to pro- visionally retain them as distinct. The other course has, however, been preferred, as no other species at all answering to their descriptions can be found. PLATE I. EOCCUS CIIKYSOrS Gill. Fig. 1. General form, in which the separation of the dorsal fins, the regular cuivatnrc of the anterior dorsal region, and the nearly straight lateral lino are to be noticed. Fig. 2. A scale from the cheek, showing its suh-cycloid character. Fios. 3 and 4. Scales from the middle of the trunk above and below the Literal line, illustrating the ctenoid nature of the scales of the body. Fift. 5. A scale from the lateral line. Fio. fi. The mouth opeu, seen in profile. Fio. 7. The open mouth seen from the front, to illustiate the dentition of the base of the tongue and its sides. Appendix 1.. I'lalcl. T Sinclair !.Son.li*.PV>la RO ecus CHRYSOPS GILL. TLATE II. MOKONE INTERRUPTA Gill. Fif;. 1. Side view of fish. Attentiou is drawn to the uuion of the bases of the dorsal fins and the anterior curve of tlie lateral line. Fi(i. 2. A scale from the cheeks, exhibiting its ctenoid strnctiire. Kir.s. S and 4. Scales from the middle of the trniik above and below the lateral line. Fifi. .'). A scale from tlie lateral line. Fiii. (i. The open mouth seen from the side. Fid. 8. The open month seen from the front, illnstrating- the villiform baud of teeth on the lateral and anterior margins of the touKue. Kx-i>l« Capl. J.H.Simpson. 1858-1850. Appendix L. Plate II. /^- ,^ lO I ■ Jte M^^^' ,.#^l?^Afe,. \ ■ Sinclair 8. Soi..litii.!'.'ii;e PLATE III. POTAMOCOTTUS CxUlOLIN.E Gill and TOTAMOCOTTUS PUNCTULATUS Gill. The species of the subgenus Potamocoltiis differ from those of Uraiiidra ouly in the presence of imlatino teeth. The generic characters in common with UrankJia are the general form of the body and fins, the depressed oval head, tlie presence of spines only on tlie prcopcrcular, subopercular, and nasal bones, and the branchial apcrtnres entirely separated by a moderate isthmns. Fig. 1. Potamocoltus Carolina' Gill. Fig. 2. The same seen from above. Fio. X The head of same from below. Fig. 4. rolamocottus punctiilaius Gill. Fig. .'). Dorsal view of same. Fig. 0. The inferior snrface of the head. Kxi'l" Ciipt. J. H. Simpson, i(i:>«- io.>-.i ^lmuMm:<^. ^>Si^S<^>^ 1-3. POTAMOCOTTUS CAROLINJE, G-ILL. 4.-6.POTAMOCOTTUS PUNCTULATUS GILL. TLATE IV. TIGOMA SQUAiMATA Gill. Fig. 1. Side view of fisb. The form of tlic ]n-:u\ ami bodv, size of tbe scales, and form and position of the fius .are to be observed. Fig. 2. The superior surface of tbe bead. Fig. 3. The inferior surface of the heail. Fig. 4. A scale from tbe side below tbe lateral line. Fig. .'>. A scale from tbe side above tbe lateral line. Fig. G. Tbe pharyngeal bones. Fig. 7. The right pharyngeal bone, represiMiliug tlie surfaces of tbe teeth. Tbe grinding-surface of the teeth is not a <'haia(ler of generic importance in the genus TUjoma. KxpH . Capl. J.H.Simpson, I8ri8-l8r>0. Appendix L. I'lulc TV. -^ :^s^,<^ iL PLATE V. PLATTGOBIO COMMUNIS Gill. Fig. 1. Side view of lisli, sliowiug the small size of the head, the large scales, aud the lorm and position of the tins especially the relative position of the dorsal and ventral fins. (The caudal peduncle is represeuted too slender.) Fig. 2. The body as seen from above, showing the broad head. (The head does not diminish iu breadth so rapidly before the eyes as represented in the figure.) Fig. 3. The head as seen from beneath, to show the isthmus separating the lips aud the width of the isthmus dividing the branchial apertures. Fig. 'I. The pharyngeal bones. Fig. 5. The pharyngeal bone of the right side, to exhibit the grindiug-surfaces of the teeth. Kxpl" Capl. J.H.Simpson. 18.S}.-18.">y. Appendix L. Plate V. PLATE VI. IGTALURUS SIMPSONII GiLL. Fig. 1. Side view of fisli, sbowiiif; the sleiuler Iioily, tlie form and position of tlio fins, especially tlie furcate caiulal ami the large eyes. Flc 2. The hea;). Appendix L. Plale VII. .) K.Hj.I,,,,,! TSiticlait iSori.lilk.Fhila. PLATE VIII. NOTURUS OCGIDENTALIS Gill. Fig. 1. Side view of fish, showing the peculiar lonu of the adipose, dorsal, aud caudal fins. Fig. 2. View of the dorsiil surface, showiug the broad head with its T-shaped depression. , Fig. 3. View of the inferior surface of the be.ad. Fig. 4. The open mouth ; the teeth are robust. The lateral extension of the intermaxillary band of teeth is not a generic character. Kxpl'? C.ipl. J.H.Simpson 1858-1859. Appendix L. I'lale VIH. T . Svuciair Sl 3iir..iift..P:i; PLATE IX. HOPLADELUS OLIVARIS Gill. Fig. 1. Side view of fish, illustrating the peculiar form of the body and fins. Fig. 2. Dorsal view of fish to show its width and the form of the head. Fig. :!. The head from below, with its many (twelve) and broad branchiostegal rays. The lower jaw protrudes beyoud the upper. Fig. 4. The open mouth, with its broad bauds of minute villiform teeth, aud the posterior extension of the intermax- illary bauds. Fig. 5. Intended to illustrate the appearance of the skin. ExpH Capi. J.H.Simpson. 1858-1859. Appemlbi L. Plate IX. ILYICHTHYS LiMOSUS GILL. EXPLORATIONS A014OSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. APPENDIX M. REPORT BOTANY OF THE EXPEDITION. Dr. OEOliOE ENGELMANN. 55 BU ^Fr'E^Di:^: m Saint Louis, Ikccmhcr 31, 18G0. Dear Sir: AVant of time has prevented mo fully to elaborate the very rich botanical material brought together, xmder your orders, by my brother, Henry Engel- mann, the geologist and meteorologist of your expedition. I herewith inclose to you an account of a few species, which seem to have a par- ticular, and principally a practical, interest. I expect to continue my investigations, and hope to submit them, through you, to the scientific public at a future period. Very respectfuly, &c., George Engelmann. Capt. J. 11. Simpson, Topfl(/raj)Jnr(iJ Eiiij'nircrs, U. S. A., ComiunutVnifi Expedition. ROSACEyE. Cercocarpus ledifolius, Niiftall in Torrcij and Grarfs Fl. N. Am. \,p. 427; and in his contiimatioii of Micham^s Sijlva, 2, p. 28, t. 51; IlooJicr, i. c. pi. t. 324; Mountaiii- MaJiofjniry of the inhabitants of Utah. This small evergreen tree is so well described by Nuttall in Ijotli works mentioned that not much remains to be added. His figure, however, is not a very faithful repre- sentation. He says that it grows much like a peach-tree, at most 15 feet high, and that the trunk is sometimes as much as a foot in diameter. On the expedition, it was ■ found to grow rarely as a tree, but usually branching from the base, or several stems from one root; its height w%as from 8-15 feet, and the stems seen had the thickness of 3-C, or, at most, 10 inches. The l)ark is light gray, tough, smoothish, with superficial longitudinal wrinkles and short transverse scars. The wood is hard, heavy, very close- grained, light reddish-brown, with white sap; medullary rays very numerous, but extremely fine, scarcely visible with the naked eye; the wood is similar to cherry-wood, but harder and heavier. A specimen before me has a diameter of 16 lines, 14 lines of which are wood, showing 24 annual rings, so that each ring has a thickness of not much more than \ line. The shoots, or longer branches, have a white, smooth bark, with joints or internodes of about 1 inch in length. The leaves, however, arc usually 436 "EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAfi. crowded at the end of lateral Ijranclilets, a few lines to 1 or 1 i inches in length closely covered with circular scars. Leaves very thick and leathery, persistent, lanceolate, acute at both ends, entire and revolute at the margin, with a thick midril), prominent on the lower surface, 9-14 lines long, 2^-3 J lines wide, on a petiole l^-S lines long, to the lower part of which adhere lanceolate, brown, scarious stipules. Wlien young, the branchlets as well as the leaves are covered all over with short, curly hair; when older, the leaves become glabrous and glossy on the upjier surface, the lower remaining hairy and assuming a rusty color. The sessile flowers are produced in June from the axils of the uppermost leaves of the preceding year's groAVth, eithef single or 2 or 3 together; short scarious bracts envelop the base of the cylindrical woolly calyx-tube, which is 3 lines long; its 5-lobed, Avhite limb, 3-^4 lines in diameter, is very woolly externally, and less so internally, and bears about 20 or 25 naked, slender filaments with reniform anthers J line in diameter. Immediately after flowering, tlie silky-feathery style becomes elongated, and cames up with it the detached limb of the calyx; at maturity, the style becomes a twisted, feathery tail of about 2 inches in length; the inconspicuous, linear, hairy fruit itself is about 4 lines long, and remains hid in the persistent, calyx- tube; at its top and base I observe a beard of very curious, stiff", Avliite bristles, less than a line in length, thicker in the middle, and tapering toward both ex- tremities. The fruit seems to be somewhat persistent, as I find it in sjiecimens collected in S2)ring before the flowering-season. Aljout the time of flowering, the young leaves begin to develop at the end of the branchlets, leaving the flowers between them and the leaves of the year before. I generally find 4 or 5 leaves of the same year's growth at the end of each branchlet; they probably fall off when about 15 or 18 months old. This fine tree, discovered by Nuttall on Bear River, north of the Salt Lake, and near "Thornberg's Ravine" in the Rocky Mountains, was found by the expedition on the Lookout Mountains and other mountain-chains of the basin. CACTACE7E. The geographical limits of the area of this curious American family have been considerably enlarged by this expedition, proving the presence of at least 7 species in the Utah Basin between the thirty-eighth and fortieth parallels, viz: 2 Echinocacti, 1 Cereus, and 4 Opiintia;. Sevei'al species known before have been found in new local- ities, and 3 new and very distinct species have been discovered, 2 Echinocacti and 1 Opuntia. Mamillaria vivipara, Ilaworth, SiqipL p. 72; Torrcy & Gray, Fl. N. Am. 2, p. 554; Engchn. Si/nops. Cad. 2^. 13; Cactus vivi])arus, NuttaJI, Gen. \, p. 295. Was collected in the South Pass and on Sweetwater River. It extends from here to the mountains of Colorado and New Mexico, but its most characteristic forms are peculiar to the more elevated plains, where it assumes that cespitose, sjjreading appear- ance, from which it has received its name. The mountain form usually makes larger heads, but remains single or branches out very sparingly. Its large purple flowers, with numerous lance-linear, long acuminate, bristle-pointed petals, and its leather- brown pitted seeds, readily distinguish it from allied species. BOTANICAL RErORT. • 437 KcHiNOCACTis SiMPSONi (sprc. uoiK*) sim[)lex, subglobosus sen depi-essus, basi turbinutus, nuunillifenis; radicibus fasciculatis; t.ubercuHs laxis ovatis apice oblique Iruncatis axilla mxdis, juiiioribiis kndtev conipressis basi dcorsum productis, vetustiori- biis obcompressis basi dilatatis; areolis ovatis sen ovato-lanceolatis, nasceiitibus albo- villosissimis niox nudatis; aculeis exterioribus sxib 20 radiantibus tenuibus rigidis rectis fiibidis, additis supra aculeis 2-5 setaceis brevibus, interioribus 8-10 robustiovibus obscuris erecto-patulis, areola fiorifera sub tuberculi aplce areolae aculeigerae contigua circulari; floribus iu vertice dissitis mIuoril)Us; ovario abbreviato s((uamis sepaloideis triangulatis paucissimis (1-3) instructo; sepalis tubi brevis late iufundibuliformis orbicxi- latis seu ovatis obtusis membranaceo-marginatis.crenulatis fimbriatis, sepalis superiori- bus 10-12 ovatis obtusis integriusculis, petalis 12-13 oblongis apice crenulatis cuspidatis ex virescente roseis; stigmatibus 5-7 brevibus erectis, bacca parva viridi sicca umbilico latissimo truncata squamis paucis subiude aculeiferis iustructa flore marcescente demum deciduo corouata irregulariter basi seu latere dehiscente; somiuibus magnis obovatis obliquis minute tuberculatis, hilo magno ovato subbasilari, embryone circa alljumen parcuui fere circumvohito liamato. Var. fi MINOR : tota planta, tuberculis, aculeis, floribus seminibusque minori])us. Butte Valley in tlie Utah Desert, and Kobe Valley farther west; fl. in April and May, fr. in June and July. Var. /? conies from tlie mountains of Colorado. This and the New Mexican Ecliinocactus impymcaitthiiss^^ the Mexican Ecli. horrijnlus, Lem., and perhaps the South American Ech. Odicrii, Lem., and Ech. Outnniingii, Salm, and probably one or two others, form the small group of Echinocacti, with the appearance of MamiUaria {Tl/floiiJri, tnhcrculis splmJlter dispositis distinctis, Salm, Cact. Ilort, Dyck 1849, cult. p. 34). They constitute the closest and most imperceptible transi- tion to MamiUaria subgen. Coryphantha, Synops. Cact., p. 8, which bear the flowers in the axils of the nascent tubercules, the flower-bearing and the spine-bearing areolae being connected by a woolly groove. In M. macromeris, Engelmann, they come from the middle of the tubercule (Cact. Mex. Boundary, t. 15, f 4), and in the Theloidei they advance to tlie top of the tubercule close to the spines, thus assuming the position which the flowers regularly occupy in the genus Echinocdcfas (see Cact. Mex. Bound, t. 20, £ 2 ; t. 21 ; t. 25, f 1 ; t. 27, f 1 ; t. 28, f. 2).t The ovary is also almost naked, like that of MamiUaria generally, or has only a few scales, like that of M. macromeris. On the other hand, the dry fruit, such as is often found in Eckinocactus, but never in MumUlaria, the tuberculated black seeds, and especially the large and curved embryo, and the presence of an albumen, do not pennit a separation from Ecli'mocadus. This species is further interesting because it again strikingly proves that the * An extract of this ilc.scriptioii was puWishcU iu the Tiaiisactions of tbo Saint Louis Academy of Sciences, vol- 2, p. 197 (18C3). tTUe plant I formerly described as MamiUaria papijraoanlha, Pliint. Feiidl., p. 49; Synops. Cact., p. 8, proves to belong to tbis section of Jichiiioeaclus. A closer examination of Mr. Feudlcr's original specimen shows tbat the floral areola joins the spiuifcrous one .at tbe apex of tbe small nascent tuborcnles. Tbiis far Mr. Fendler's specimen, found near Santa F6, bas remained tbe only one ever obtained of tbis pretty species. tJichiiwcacliis Ireviliamnliis, Engelm., forms an exception. In tbis si)ecies, tbo flowers are situated exactly as in Coryphantha, at tbo base of tbo tubercle, and connected with the distiuct apiniferons areola by a woolly groove, (see Cact. Mex. Bound, t. 19, fs. 2 and 3). 438 EXPLOEATIOXS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAfl. general appearaiice, the hahitus, of a cactus plant, not necessarily indicates its real affinities. Not only is it a true EcUnocadus, notwithstanding every appearance of a MamiUaria, but it is, moreover, closely allied in all its essential characters to the very compact Ecli. inioiexfus, Engelm., C. Bound, p. 27, t. o4, in which all traces of tuber- cules are lost in the straight ribs. It has the same small flowers and the same small dry fruit, containing few large seeds, of similar structure, though not entirely the same arrangement of the spines. Full-grown specimens of our plant are 3-5 inches high and 3-4 inches in diam- eter, of dark-green color ; tubercules loosely an-anged in ^i or ^ order, 8 and 13 spirals being most prominent. They are 6-8 lines long, at base somewhat quadi-angular, 6-7 lines wide in the vertical and 4-5 lines in the transverse diameter, becoming sub- cylindric upward ; areolfE 3-4 lines long, a little more than half as wide. The fruit- bearing tubercules are rather stouter and shorter. Exterior spines 4-6 lines long, whitish; interior ones spreading, stouter, and a little longer (5-7 lines long), yel- lowish and upward deep brown or black ; no truly central spine. In the very young plant, the spines, 18-20 in luimber and only 1-1 J lines in length, are all radiating, closely fitting with their compressed bullious bases on a linear areola, resembling in shape and an-angement those of Cercus cccspitosm. Soon afterward the areola becomes wider, and 6 or 8 short, stout, brown interior spines make their appearance, divergent like tlie original ones. Next the ordinary arrangement, as described above, takes place. It seems that quite early in spring the young tubercules on the vertex of the plant beo-in to form, exhibiting their densely Avoolly tops, and soon afterward, long before any spines make their appearance, the tips of the smooth brown flower-buds come out. The flowers are 8-10 lines long and of nearly the same diameter, externally greenish- purple, petals yellowish-green or verging to pale ])urple. The short stamens arise from the Avhole surface of the tube, leaving only a very small nectariferous space in its base. The fruit is about 3 or 3i lines long and almost as wide, borne on a very large circular areola, surrounded by a wooll}' margin (see t. 2, f. 1). It bears toward its top 1-3 scales, sometimes with 1 or 2 small spines in their axils. The fruit usually opens by an iri-egular lateral slit ; falling off', its base remains attached to the areola, as is the case in many (or all! or only all the diy -fruited ?) Erhinocacti, thus producing a basal opening (see t. 2, f. 5). Seeds 1^ lines long in the longest diameter, covered with minute close-set tubercles. Tlie young seedling shows erect, pointed cotyledons, and, when a few weeks old, begins to develop its puliescent spines. Var. y5 has been received this fall from the Colorado gold-region;* tlie smallest specimens were 1 inch in diauieter, globose, the small tubercules in -h order, spines 1^-2 lines long, often curved; sometimes 1-3 darker stouter ones in the center. The larger specimens are almost of the size of those of Utah, but often depressed at top; tu"bercules arranged in if or even It order, spines only 4-5 lines long, 20-28 external and 6 or 7 internal ones. This species has been named in honor of the gallant commander of the expedition. * It here grows and thrives probably at a bigber elevation than any other northeru Cactus, occnpying e. g. the gravelly moraines of the Glacial period of Clear Creek Valley, between 8,000 and 9,000 feet altitude, and in the sonthern part of the Territory, the Sangre de Cristo Pass, 10,000 feet high (January, 1870). BOTANICAL REPORT. 439 Plato 1. E<:hinoc(ufiis S'niipso)il as it appears in early spi'iiig; on tlio vertex a young- growth of tul)erciiles is visible, their tops covercul with wool. I'late 2. Details of the same. Fig. 1. Four tubercules from near the vertex, one shows the broad sear where the fruit lias fallen off, another one is just developing its spines, exhibiting their points above the thick wool. Fig. 2. A detached tul)ercule bearing a ripe fruit. Figs. 3 and 4. Flowers with the upper part of the tubercule and its young spines. Figs. 5 and 6. The fruit magnified three times; fig. 5 showing the basal opening, fig. 6 the broad umbilicus. Fig. 7. A scale of this fruit, more magnified, with two axillary spines. Figs. 8-12. Seed: fig. 8 natural size, the others eight times magnified; fig. 1) lat- eral, fig. 10 dorsal, fig. 11 basal view; fig. 12 part of the surface, highly mag- nified. Fig. 13. Embryo, enveloped in the inner seed-coat, including also the albumen; magnified. Fig. 14. Lateral, fig. 1.5 frontal view of the embryo, mngnified. Fig. 16. Seedling, a few weeks old, magnified. Fig. 17. Tubercules of the smaller variety from Colorado, in every state of devel- opment. EciiiNOCACTUs PUBispiNUS {spcc. nov.) * parvulus, turbinatus, costis 13 subobli- quis compressis interruptis tuberculatis ; areolis orbiculatis, aculeis brevibus, rectis sen sajpe curvatis albidis apice adustis velutinis demum nudatis; radialibus superioribus 1-2 robustioribus, longioribus rectis curvatis seu hamatis, ceteris 5-8 brevioribus; aculeo centrali deficiente seu singulo robustiore longiore arrecto sursuiii haniato; flore ? ; fructu ? . Pleasant Valley, near the Salt Lake Desert, found May 9 without flower or fruit. Plant 2 inches high, 1 or 1^ in diameter; compressed tubercules 4-6 lines dis- tant from one another, confluent in 13 ribs, radial spines 1-4 lines long, white pubes- cent or almost tomentose, more so than I have observed it in any other cactus ; on the lower areola?, I find only 5-6 spines, the upper ones a little longer and stouter than the balance; farther upward, the number increases to 10, one or more of the upper ones becoming still stouter and often hooked; at last here and there a single central spine makes its appearance, 5-6 lines long, the strong hook always turned inward or upward. At first, only the dusky point of the spine is naked ; with age, the whole coating seems to wear off. In another specimen, I find the spines 8-12 in number, a little longer, more slender, all radiating. The small supraspinal areola proves this plant to be an Erliinocactus ; it probably belongs, together with the next, to the sec- tion Hamati, Synops. Cact. p. 15. EcHiNOCACTUS Whipplei, EiHjdm. ((■■ Blgehv, Facif. 11. Picp. IV, Cact. p. 28, 1. 1, Si/n. Cacf. J). 15. Yar. spinosior: globosus; costis 13 compressis interruptis; aculeis radialibus 9-11, inferioribus srepe obscmioribus, reliquis longioribus niveis, 2 superioribus sajpe » This descriptiou lias been published iu Traus. Acad. St. Louis, vol. 2, p. I'M (18G3). It is rather stratige that neither this nor the above-mentioned E. papijracaiilhus has ever been found again (January, 1876). 440 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. elongatis comphuiatis curvatLs ; centralibus 4, summo elongate complanato pergamen-- taceo flexuoso albo, 3 reliquis pauUo brevioribus obscuris omnibus sen solum infimo Imnifllis ; llorlbus niinoribus ; ovavio squamis sopaloideis 5 oblongis munito ; sepalis tul)i liiiearibus niargiue membranaceis intcgris nuicronulatis, petalis angustis oblongis; atigniatibus (i-7 brevibus in capitulum globosmn congestis ; bacca ovata parce squa- mata floris rudimentis persistentibus coronata. The species was originally discovered on the Little Colorado by Dr. Bigelow, and was found afterward on the same stream by Dr. Newberry ; the vaiiety here described was met with more than 5 degrees farther north, in Desert Valley, west of Camp Floyd ; remains of fruit, with the withered flowers attaclied, and some seeds, were found concealed between the spines from which the description has been drawn.* Globose heads 3 inches in diameter, radial spines ^-1^ inches long, central ones 1^2 inches in length; flowers, if I may judge from the withered remains, about 1 inch, long; ovary small, bearing about 5 membranaceous scales, the lower triangular, the upper oblong-linear, almost entire, and never cordate or auriculate at base, as they appear in most of the allied species ; sepals of tube also narrow, linear, or oblong-lin- ear, 2-5 or 6 lines long, J-1 line wide, stigmas about i line long. Fruit apparently an oval berry, J inch long ; seed just as it is described and flgured in AVhipi)le's Cac- tacete ; the tubercules on the seed-coat are extremely minute and distant from one an- other, each forming a central protuberance on the otherwise flat surface of an angular cell of two or three times the diameter of the tubercule itself; embryo curved about f around a rather copious albumen. Ceeeus viRiDiFLORUS, Eiujchi. in Wisliz. Mem. note 8, siih Erhinocereo ; Cact. Mex. Bound, t. 36 ; Sijnops. Caet. ]). 22. Tliis is evidently the northernmost CereKS, extending to the Upper Platte ; it is abundant in Colorado. These northern specimens are 1-3 inches high, 13-ribbed, and sliow the greatest variability in the color of the radial spines ; in some bunches, they are all red, in others white, in others again the colors are distributed without nmch regularity ; sometimes the iipper and lower spines are white and the lateral ones red, or a few or even a single one above and below are red and all the rest white ; or the lower ones are red and the upper ones white, and all these variations sometimes occur on the same specimen. I mention this to shoAv how little reliance can be placed on the colors or the distribution of the colors of the spines. Central spines wanting or 1 or 2 projecting horizontally, straight or curved upward, white or tipped with purple or all purple, 6-9 lines in length. Cereus -Engelmanni, rarrij in SiUiin. Jottrn. n. set: 14, jj. 338 ; Engchn. Cact. Bound, p. 36, t. 57 ; Si/nops. Cact. p. 27. Deserts west of the Salt Lake, without flower or fruit. Specimen entirely simi- lar to the one figured in the Cactacea^- of the Boundary. The species seems to extend from the Salt Lake region southwestwardly to Arizona and the ]\Iohave country. * The botanist of Dr. Ilayden's Expedition of 1875, Mr. Brandegee, found it abundantly iu Southwestern Colo, rado (January, 187G). BOTANICAL REPORT. 441 Opuntia SPHiEROCARPA, Engchu. and Bigdoiv, Vac. R. Mcp. IV, Cact. p. 47, t. lo, fs. 6-7 ; S>jn. Cact. p. 44. Var. f Utahensis : diffusa, la?te-virens, articulis orbiculato- obovatis, crassis, junioribus sa^pe globoso-obovatis ; areolis subapproximatis ; foliis min- utis subulatis divaricatis; setis brevissimis paucis straminels; aculeis nuUis sen parvulis nunc singulo longiore recto I'obusto albido ; floribus sulphureis, ovario obovato areotis f iisco-tomentosis sub-25 instructo, sepalis exterioribus transversis obcordatis cuspida- tis ; petalis 8 late-obovatis emarginatis ; stylo vix supra stamina exserto ; stigmatibus 8 brevibus erectis ; bacca o1)ovata aveolis plurimis tomentosis stipata ; seminibus nu- merosis irregulariter compressis anguste marginatis. Pass west of Steptoe Valley, in the western mountains of the Basin, found July 19 in flower and fruit. Joints 2-3 inches long and of almost the same diameter; often over J inch in thickness, sometimes almost terete or rather egg-shaped ; areolae 6 or 8 lines apart ; leaves very slender and acute, scarcely 1 line long, smaller than in any other of our species except 0. hasilaris, also a western form from the Lower Colorado. Bristles few, and even in old joints scarcely more than ^ line long ; spines none, or on the upper areola? a fcAv short ones, with here and there a stouter one i|-l inch in length. Flowers nearly 3 inches in diameter, pale or sulphur-yellow, when fading, reddish ; friiit about 1 inch long and half as wide, with a deep umbilicus, and with 20-25 areola?, which sometimes show a few bristles or a minute spine ; seeds very irregular, 2, or, in the largest diameter, sometimes 2^ lines wide. Unwilling to increase the number of illy-defined species in this most difficult genus, I attach this plant to the only species known to me to which it possibly can be compared, 0. splmrocarpa from New Mexico, though its fruit is not spherical, has not a shallow umbilicus, and is, at least in the specimen before me, not diy ; the latter woiild be an insuperable distinction, if we might not suspect, what in fact is often the case, that the fruit later in the season would become diy and brittle. The leaves, which heretofore have been entirely too much neglected as a diagnostic character in this genus, and the flowers of the original 0. sph(Brocarpa, are unknown thus far. Opuntia toetispina, Engehn. (& Bigcloiv, I. c. p. 41, t. 8. fs. 2-3 ; Syn. Cact. p. 37. Forks of the Platte ; in flower in July. The specimens being very incomplete, I am not quite sure that this is the same species as that of Captain ^Vliipple's Expedi- tion; the joints appear to be somewhat smaller, the areola? closer together, and the spines shorter (1-1 J inches) and rather weaker; it may possibly prove to be an extreme form of 0. Eafinesquii, the area of which extends to the Eocky Mountains. Leaves subulate, 2 lines long; flowers 2J-3 inches in diameter, sulphur-yellow; ovary long (1-li inches), with 20-30 areolae, with light-brown wool and short bright-brown bristles; exterior sepals obovate, lance-cuspidate; petals 6-8, broadly obovate, obtuse, crenulate; stigmas 6-8, short, erect, as long as the stamens. Opuntia hystricina, Engehn. cB Bigcloiv, I. c. p. 44, t. 15, fs. 5-7 ; Syn. Cact. p. 43. A flowering specimen, collected in June between Walker and Carson Rivers, is exactly like one found by Dr. Bigelow on the Colorado Chiquito; it has slenderer and straighter spines than the one figured in Whipple's Report, and approaches somewhat to 0. crinacca, E. & B., of the Mohave region, in which I now recognize the long-los: 56 B u 442 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. 0. rutila, Nutt. in Torr. & Gray Flor. 1, p. 555. Joints 5 inches long, half as wide, obovate; leaves IJ lines long; areolfe closely set with long straw-coloi'ed bristles; loAvei' ones with few and short white spines, npper ones mth numerous grayish-red spines, li-2 inches in length. Flowers pale straw-colored, 24-3 in diameter; ovary 1 inch long, with 20-30 white woolly aculeolate areolae; exterior sepals oblanceolate, squarrose, or recurved at the elongated tip; petals obovate, obtuse, crenulate; style with 8 or 10 short erect stigmas, longer than the stamens. The squarrose tips of the sepals are particularly conspicuous on the bud. Opuntia Mis.souriensis, De Cand. Prod. 3, p. 472; Ton: & Gray, Fl. 1, p. 555 (m part); Cactus ferox, Nntt. Gen. 1, p. 296. From the deserts of Salt Lake Valley to Rush Valley; specimens without flower or fruit. Joints small (2-3 inches long), broadly obovate or circular; areolne closely set; spines numerous, stiff, stout, angular,. AAdiite, mostly deflexed. Opuntia Missouriensis, var. albispina, Enijdni. S Bigehw, I. c. p. 46; t. 14, fs. 8-10; Syn. Cad. ih 44. Smith Creek, Lookout Mountains, in Western Utah; flowering in July. By their slender flexuous spines, the specimens approach to var. trichophora. Flowers 3-3J inches in diameter, bright golden-yellow; ovary 1 inch long, with 20 or 25 areola?, scarcely spiny; exterior sepals obovate, cuspidate; petals about 8, obtuse, crenulate; style shorter than the stamens; stigmas about 5, very short, erect. Some flowers have elongated and very spiny ovaries, evidently abortive. Opuntia piiagilis, Ilaworth, Siippl. p. 82; Torr. rC Grai/, Fl 1, p. 555; Syiiops. Cad. p. 45; Cactus frngilis, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 296. Fort Kearny to the North Platte country; in flower in June and Jul}-. This is, I believe, the first time that the flowers of this species were collected since Nuttall's discovery of it in 1813. Travelers report that the plant is very frequently seen in the sterile prairies east of the Rocky Mountains, but that it is rare to find them in flower and rarer still in fruit. Since many years I have the plant in cultivation from speci- mens brought down by Dr. Hayden, but have not been able to get it to flower. Nuttall only informs us that the flowers are solitary and small. In the specimen before me, they are yellow, scarcely 2 inches in diameter; ovary 8-9 lines long; the 15-15 areolae are densely covered with thick Avhite wool; the upper ones bear a few white spines; lower sepals broadly oval, with a short cusp; petals 5, obovate, rounded, crenulate; style longer than the stamens; stigmas 5, short, erect, cuspidate.* * Through the kindness of Dr. A. W. Chapman, of Apalachicola, Fla., I have received living specimens and ftnit of 0. Pes Corri,so that I can now coinploto the description of this very distinct southern species. Opuntia Pks C'oitvi, Le Conic in herh. Ungelnu; Append, to Si/nops. Cad. in Proceed. Am. Acad. Arts ./• Sc. :!, p. 34G ; Chap- tnau, Fl. South. V. ,S'. p. 145: diffusa, hTte viridis; articulis parvis ovatis sen obovatis tnmidis sa^pins teretiuscnlis con- catenatis fragilil)ns; pulvillissnhdistantibus pulvinatis; foliis teretiuscnlis ovatis cuspidatisincurvis ; areolis juuioribns albo-tomeutosis setas parcas brevissimas pallidas et plerisque aculeos 1-3 rectos rigidos sa-pe basi compressos tortosve obecuros gereutibus, iufimis inennibus; lioribus flavis miuoribus: ovario obovato pnlvillos perpaucos fnsco-villosos ge- rente ; sepalis exterioribus ovato-lanceolatis, interioribus obovatis cuspidatis ; petalis sub-S obovatis spatulatis obtasis ; stylo stamina a^quante, stigmatibns 4-5 erectis; seminibus paucissimis anguste obtuseqne niarginatis in pulpa visoosa bacCB parvise rubraj sa'pe lloris rudi mentis corouatic nidulantibns. Barren sandy places along the co.ast of Georgia and Florida. Joints 1-3 inches long, obov.ite tumid, or narrower BOTANICAL EErOET. 443 OrUNTiA PULCiiELLA (s2>cc. tiov.) :* ptirvula c;cspitosa diflusa; articulis parvis ob- ovato-clavatis; foliis miniitis e basi ovata subulatis; areolis confertis, superioribus acu- leos albidos rectos, singuhun longiorem coniplanatuni porrectum sen deflexiim alios brevissimos radiantes gerentibus; floris purpiirei ovario areolis 13-15 convexis albo villosissimis et longe setosis dense stipato ; sepalis inferioribus lineari-obloiigis In-eviter cuspidatis, superioribus spatulatis; petalis sub-8 obovatis obtusis, stylo cylindrico ex- serto, stigniatibus 5 linearibus suberectis; bacca sicca setosissima, seminibus crassis rliaplie lata plana notatis. Sandy deserts on AValker River ;t il. in June. This is one of the smallest, as it is one of the prettiest, species of tliis genus. It belongs to the small section of Clavatoi (Synops. Cact. p. 46) of the cylindric Opun- ti(B, but is distinct from all those known to me by its small joints and purple flowers; all the others have, so far as I know, yellow flowei's. Joints 1-1 ^ inches long, 4-6 lines thick, very slightly tuberculated; leaves scarcely one line long; areola} crowded, white woolly; larger central spine on the upper areolae 4-G lines long, flat, and some- what rough above, convex beloAv; smaller ones 4-6 or 10, radiating, ^-IJ lines long; flowers crowded, of a beautiful bright purplish-red or deep rose-red color, 1^-1 J inches in diameter; ovary 4-5 lines long, beset with white capillary spines, 3-5 lines long, 15-20 on each areola; style not ventricose, as is usual in the genus, but cyhu dric; stigmas slender, pale yellow; berry clavate, at last dry, about 1 inch long, well marked by the conspicuous white-woolly areolas and their numerous purplish-brown, flexible, hair-like bristles, 4-6 or 7 lines long. These bristles are entirely destitute of the minute barbs which otherwise invariably cliaracterize spines and bristles of Opunti(e. The thick round seeds, 2 lines in diameter, are well distinguished by a broad rhaplie, much wider than I have seen it in any other clavate Opuutia. Plate 3, Fig. 1. Part of a plant of Opmitia pukhdlu, showing a flower-bud and two flowers, natural size. Figs. 2-4. Bunches of spines, 4 times the natural size. Fig. 5. Section of a larger spine, more magnified. Fig. 6. A leaf from an ovary with the axillary woolly and bristly areola, 4 times natural size. Fig. 7. A fruit. Figs. 8-9. Seed, 4 times magnified; fig. 9 showing the broad rhaphe. and cyliudric, freKh or dark green, usually growing one on top of tbe otbcr, forming cliains of 1 or 2 feet long, at last prostrate ; joints fragile, separating as readily as in 0. fragilU ; tumid pulvilli 4-6 or even 8 lines apart ; leaves 2J-3i or 4 lines long, incurved; spines 1-li inches long, very straight, when in tlirees divergent like the " crowsfoot " used against cavalry, whence the name given by tbe military gentlemen who discovered this siiecies. Flowers li-li inches in diameter ; sepals and petals less numerous and n.arrower than in any allied species ; ovary about \ inch long, with only 2 or 3 areohe on the surface and 3-5 on the upper margin. Fruit obovate, (J-7 lines long, rose-purple, with a shallow umbilicus, oftened crowned with the blackened remains of the llower; areohe almost obliterated ; red pulp very gluti- nous, including 1-3 or at most h seeds, which are regularly shaped, lenticular, with a narrow but thick and very obtuse rim. liy its pulpy frnit, this species is widely removed from O.frayilis, to which its tumid and fragile joints seem to ally it, nor can it be confounded with any other species, though allied to 0. vulyans and 0. Ilajim'siinii. ' An acconut of this species was given in the Transactions of the St. Louis Acad. 2, p. 201 (1803). i This pretty species was afterward collected, 1807, " among the sago brushes" of Nevada, by Mr. William Gabb and in the following year by Mr. S. Watson " frequent in the valleys of Western Nevada from the Trinity Mountains to Monitor Valley, 4-5,000 feet alt." 444 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIJS OF UTAH. COMPOSITyE. The name of " Wild Sage'", noAV so familiar to every traveller in our western mount- ain-deserts, was first used by Lewis and Clarke, in the nan-ative of theii" adventiu'ous expedition, to designate several species of Artemisia or Worm wood, distantly resembling the true gaixlen sage. Salvia officinalis, by their gray foliage and aromatic odor. It seems that now this name has, by common use, been restricted to the larger shrubby species, which give a peculiar character to the arid plateaus of Western North America, and which are of the highest importance to the traveller as "furnishing the sole article of fuel or shel- ter wlaich they meet in wandering over these woodless deserts", as already Nuttall informs us in his genera of North American Plants, 2, p. 142. He states that the "Wild Sage" is his Artemisia Columhiensis, which name was by him improperly substituted for the prior name of A. cana, descnbed by Pursh from the original specimens of Lewis and Clarke. Torrey and Gray, in their Flora of N. Amei'ica, 2, p. 418, doubt whether this really is the "Wild Sage" of those travelers, and come to the conclusion that that name was indiscriminately applied to several shrubby species ; they fm'ther state that the plant given by Governor Lewis to Pursh as "the Sage" is the herbaceous A. Liidorieiana found on the homeward voyage on the Missouri River. I have now the means, tlu-ough information obtained from Mi\ H. Engelmanu and from Dr. F. V^. Ilayden, to throw a little more light on this question, which is not without importance for botanical g-eography. The two species Iiere in question are — Artemisia cana, Pursh, Fl. Am. sept. 2, p. 521; Torrey and Gray, Fl. N. Am. 2, p. 418. — Shrubby, with woody stem 2-4 inches in diameter, 2-4 feet (on the Yellowstone, Dr. Hayden) or 2-6 feet high (on the Laramie Plains, H. Engelmann). Stem covered with a light-gray bark, mIucIi is separated into many layers of loose shi-eds connected by smaller transverse fibers, and is readily torn off. Wood light, porous, pale-colored, with very many darker brown medullary rays, easil)' separating along the division of the annual rings. These rings, or layers, are from i-l line in thickness, as stems of 1^—2 inches diameter show about a dozen rings, and are consequently as many years old. The stems are rarely cyhndrical, but mostly compressed, knotty, and variously twisted, and often stunted; they are sometimes divided from the base, but oftener bear short and thick branches higher up. The annual branchlets are crowded along the older branches, 8-12 inches long, densely coated with a soft, white pubescence, and crowded with silvery-gi'ay leaves, and bear towai'd their upper part and on the numerous short and erect lateral branchlets a profusion of small flower-heads, forming a spiked or con- tracted panicle, interspersed with short leaves. The leaves are flat, linear-lanceolate, entire or (the lower -ones) rarely lobed, 1-2 or 2i lines wide and li-2 inches long, the upper ones becoming smaller. The flower-heads are mostly sessile, or nearly so, hemispherical, about 2 lines long and wide ; outer scales of involucrum shorter, folia- ceous, and canescent (sometimes the lowest ones larger than the flo.wers, and pointed) ; inner scales nearly as long as flowers, brownish, scarious, obtuse', cottony-fimbriate on the margins. The flowers are all perfect, usually 5, in some specimens as many as 8 in number, \h Hues long; ovary glandular, and, when bruised, with tlie odor of wormwood. BOTANICAL llErOKT. 445 This is tlie "Wild Sage" of tlie Up})er Missouri (above the mouth of the YeUow- stone) and the Yellowstone River, and of the Laramie I'lains, but it does not seem to occur west of the Rocky Mountains, as Torrey and Gray (/. c.) already state, and Nuttall {I. c.) must have confounded it with other species, when he contends that it is "still more abundant on the barren plains of the Columbia River", and that it grows 6 to 8 or 12 feet high. Artemisia tridentata, Nnftall in Trans. Ainer. Phil. Soc. (n. scr.) 7, j^. 398; Torrey and Gray, Fl. 2, ^>. 418. — Trunk, bark, and wood very similar to that of the last S2)ecies, but trunk often larger, and usually even more twisted and knotty, Avith very numerous short and stunted branches, which are repeatedly divided into a great many smaller branchlets; ultimate annual branchlets fascicled, erect, only 3-6 inches long, canescent or silvery, very leafy at base, rather naked upward, bearing strict, rather compact, pan- iculate spikes, composed of sessile or usually pedunculate spikelets or glomerules of 3 to G or 8 sessile heads. Leaves silverj"- white on both surfaces, crowded at the base of the branches, and often fascicled on short or stunted sterile branches, narrowly wedge- shaped, 1^-2 lines wide at the obtuse tridentate or trilobed end, narrowed down into a more or less distinct petiole; usually 3-G, rarely 8, lines long. Inflorescence inter- spersed with shoi"t and narrow, undivided, cuneate or spatulate obtuse leaves. Heads of flowers- narrow, obovoid, nearly 1 h lines long, not much more than half as wide, with short and obtuse, canescent, exterior scales, and longer, scarious, interior scales, ciliate on the sides. Flowers in some specimens 3, in others often 4-5 in each head, all perfect, scarcely more than 1 line long; ovary quite glandular and Avith the odor of tiu'pentine. This is the "Wild Sage" of Utah, and, perhaps, of the whole region west of the Rocky Mountains, where it seems to supplant the more eastern A. cana. Nuttall, who first described it, calls it a shrub about a foot high, and as such it appears in the mountains of Colorado; but in Utah it is the largest and most abundant species, usually 2-4 feet high, rarely attaining a height of 6 feet, and then not straight, and with trunks of 3-G inches diameter; sometimes the smallest bushes have trunks fully as thick as the tallest ones, short and chunky. East of the mountains, in the range of A. cana, it ever remains an inconspicuous shrub, lost among the more common species. Near Camp Floyd, specimens were collected bearing white tomentose excrescences of the size of a pea, or larger, luidoubtedly galls caused by the sting of insects ; the same have been observed on tliis species in Colorado. The other species of Artemisia collected by the expedition were A. Canadensis, Michx., at Bridger's Pass; A. Lndoviciana, Nutt., at Sweetwater, Bridger's Pass, Romid Prairie, etc.; A. dracunculoides, Pursh, on the Sweetwater; and A. friyida, Willd., on the Upper Sweetwater River. CHENOPODIACEiE. Sarcobatus vermiculatus, Torrey in Emory's Iteport (1848), p. 14:). Batis (f) vermiculata, i/ooZ:cr, Flor. Bor.-Am. 2, p. 128 (1840); Sarcobatus JIaximiliaui, Nees in Pr. 3Iaximil. Trav. Enyl. ed. p. 518 {ex Torrey), Scuhert in Bot. Zeitiuiy, 1844, p. 753, cum tab., Lindley in Hooker, Land. Journ. Bot. IV, p. 1 (1845); Fremontia vcrmicularis. 446 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GEEAT BASIN OF UTAH. Torrcy in Fremont's First Bcport, 18-43, Ee2)t. 1845, j;. 95, and Fremoufs Second Report, 1845, j^. 317, tah. 3; Sarcacantlius, Nuttall in PI. Ganibel, p. 184; Sarcobatus vermicu- laris, Torreij in Sitgr. Rep. p. 169, in Stansb. Rep. p. 394, in Rot. WhippU, p. 130;* Pulpy Thorn or Pidpy-leaved Thorn of Lewis and Clarke ; Grcasewood of the present travelers and settlers. This curious and important plant is found on the arid saline plains, principally on clayey soil, which in the wet season is moist, and on the boi-der of salt-lakes, often covering laro-e patches, from below Fort Pierre on the Missouri {Dr. Hayden) to the Upper Platte River {Fremont, H. Enyelmann), and Upper Canadian (Dr. James) east of the Rocky Mountains to the i)lains of the Columbia (Lewis and Clarke, Douglas, Fremont), Utah (Fremont, Stanshnri/) through the Basin to Carson Valley (H. Fngelmann) and down to the Gila River (Emory). Though ditcavered and noticed by Lewis and Clarke (1804) and collected by Dr. James (1819), this shrub was first described, 1840, by Hooker, in his North American Flora, from Oregon specimens, and was doubtfully referred by him to Ratis. A few years later, it was again described by Nees in his account of the plants collected by the Prince of Neu Wied as a new genus under the name of Sarcobatus, and very soon afterward, and without a knowledge of the publica- tion by Nees, again by Torrey under that of Fremontiu. It is a great pity that this last name had to give way to priority, though at present a nmch handsomer and sliowy Californian shrub bears Fremont's name, the wide-spread Grcasewood of the western mountains and deserts would more fitly have commemorated the bold and hardy pioneer of explorers to the millions, who now do or in time to come will know and value this plant. The Greasewood forms a scraggy, stunted shrub, 2 or 3 to as much as 6 or 8 feet high; in Utah, it is commonly 3-4 feet liigh. The stems are scarcely ever more than 1 or 2 and rarely 3 inches thick, knotty, flattened, twisted, and often with irregu- lar ridges and holes (the scars of decayed branches) ; sometimes, however, many straight shoots issue from a single base, ^-h inch thick, ,30 straight as to be used for arrows. They are covered with a compact, smoothish or slightly roughened, light-gray bark. The wood is very hard and compact, of light-yellow, in the core light-brownish, color, with very thin annual layers, in younger plants about ^, in older ones J of a line or less thick. The oldest stems seen showed 20-25 rather indistinct rings, and were con- sequently so many years old. The numerous smaller branches have a smooth, shining, white bark, and are beset with white spines at right angles; these spines are indurated branches of two kinds. The sharper and shorter ones are real spines, scarcely ever more than ^-1 inch long; they bear leaves only, or, in the axils of these, female flowers, and are terminated by a sharp point and never by a staminate spike. The other spines are branchlets which did bear such a terminal spike, which, after flowering, has fallen away; they are 1-2 inches long, sometimes even longer, when they are apt to bear also lateral sj^ines. The flower-bearing branches are very often secondary axillary productions closely under the sterile primary branch, which constitutes the spine, so that the spines often appear as axillary to the flower-bearing branches. The leaves are thick and pulpy, linear, or often narrowed toward the base, flattened or even slightly * Compare S. Watson's Revision of the American Chenopodiacc.-e in Proc. Am. Ac. Arts Sc. vol. 9, p. 82 (1875). BOTANICAL EEPORT. 447 channeled on tlie upper surface, and keeled on the lower one, at least toward the base, leaving a triangular scar after falling off. They are ^-1 inch, rarely as much as 1| inches long, and i line, or sometimes, in the upper half, even 1 line, wide; in young and vigorous shoots, I have seen the leaves flatter, shorter, and broader, almost lanceolate. Their sui-fiice usually is perfectly glabrous; in specimens from Carson Lake, however, I find the younger leaves covered with a rough and sometimes branched pubescence. The leaves are sometimes on the lower part of the branches opposite, but commonly alternating in f order. The staminate and pistillate flowers are both very imperfect, but very different in their arrangement and structure; they usually occur on the same plant, though some plants seem to bear scarcely any but staiuinate, others only pistil- late, flowers. The staminate flowers are crowded into a deciduous spike or aiuent, terminating the branches. This spike is, before the flowers open, 3-5 lines long and IJ lines thick, and very compact, exhibiting only the rhombic surfaces of the scales; afterward it elongates to the length of 5-9 lines, showing the deciduous anthers under and between the separated scales. Th^ spike consists of 25-35 peltate angular scales, pointed at the upper end, which cover 3-5 broadly oval anthers, sessile on the rhachis, ^ line long, 2-celled, opening laterally. The fertile flowers are usually solitary in the axils of the leaves and sessile; in some specimens, I find a secondary flower just below the primary one, and sometimes even below a branch, springing from the same axil ; sometimes they are aggregated on abbreviated branchlets, forming irregular clusters. The flower consists of a tubular calyx with an inconspicuous rim, investing the lower half of the ovary, which is terminated by two unequal subulate stigmas, lateral in regard to the stem. In the fruit, this rim is enlarged to a broad, circular, spreading wing, 3-5 lines in diameter, green or sometimes red, which surrounds the upper third of the fruit. The flattened vertical seed, inclosed in the membranaceous utriculus, is about 1 line in diameter, and contains a spiral embryo without an albumen, as already demonstrated and figured by Professor Torrey in Frc^mont's Report. The Greasewood is found in flower from June to August. The fori?i from Carson Lake seems to be distinguished not only by the pubescence of the younger parts of the plant, but also by its more squarrose growth, its subdice- cious flowers, and its aggregated fertile flowers and fruits; but the Greasewood of other locahties is also often subdio-cious, so that when first described, it was considered a truly dioecious plant. George Engelmann. Expif. of Capt. J.H.Simpsons^SBS^Q- Appendix M. Plate 1. F.p„,,t.r M. ICHINOCACTUS SIMPSONI EilGELU. • Sinclair ISon.ua-Pkila Expls.'of Capt. J.H.Siiiipsoii'a l.S!ir;-'"i9. Appendix M.Plate II. s^ ^W' ECHINOCACTUS SIMPSON"! engelm. T S,„i;ldiriSoi,.lilh.f}L\la Expls. of Capt. J.H. Simpsons 1858-59. Appendbc M. Plate HI. :. Smciair k S on. lith. Praia. OPUNTIA PULCHELLA, eng-elm. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GRIixiT BxVSlN OF UTAH. APPENDIX K POPULATION AND RESOUPyCES OE THE TERHITOPiY OF UTAH. Dr. aAKI^ANT> HURT. 57 b tr roi'ULATION AND RESOUKCES OK THE TEliKlTOKV OE UTAH. I!v Dr. G.viiL.vNii Ilcur. Ciiptahi SinipsDi/ fa Dr. (iarJund Hint. Ueeice Toro(;i!ArHiCAL Exgixeeii.s, Depaktment Utah, Camp Floyd, U. T., Mitrch 1, 1869. Dear Siij: I liave just asked Mr. Gilbert who would be the best person to refer to for ii statement of the population of this Territory, and he mentioned you. Now^ if you could give me such a statement, I would feel infinitely obliged to you, and would give you full credit for the same in a report which I expect to make Xo the Govern- ment on this subject. I would like to obtain the nundjer and names of the towns and settlements, their respective locations, the population of each, the quality and extent of cultivable soil in tlieir vicinity, the kind and quality of minerals, the saw and grist mills, factories, and other items of information which would be interesting to the public. If you could furnish this information in part or whole, you would be doing the public a great service, and me a very considerable favor. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. H. Simpson, Captain Corps Topo(jraplilcal Engineers. Dr. Garland Hurt, Great Salt Lake Citi/. Dr. Hurt's rephj. Salt Lake City, U. T., March 5, 1859. Dear Sir: Your letter of the 1st instant requesting information respecting the to\\'ns, population, agricultural and mineral resources, &c., of the Ten-itory of Utah, is just received; and I waiuld say for the present, that while I distrust my qualifica- tions for furnishing such inforniation as will be satisfactory, I shall, at the earliest opportunity, take pleasure in endeavoring to do so. Yours, truly, Garland IIirt. Capt. J. II. SlMP.SON, • Corps TopoyraphieaJ Engineers, Camp Eloi/d. 452 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. AN ABSTRACT STATEMENT OF TFIE TOPULATION, RESOURCES, ETC., OF THE TOWNS AND SETTLE- MENTS OF UTAH TERRITORY, MARCH lU, If'.O, BY DR. GARLAND HURT. Brighain Citv is tlie cmmty-seat of liox Elder County; lias a population of about 800, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring'-niill, and about 2,000 acres of land in cultivation, mostly of a dark, alluvial soil, well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, oats, liarloy, and potatoes. Willow Creek has a population of about GOO, 1 flouring-mill, and 1,001) acres of land of a quality similar to that at Brigham City. There is a scattering population in this county of about 400, making the entire population of the count}' about 1,800. About G miles south of Willow Creek are the Red Springs, so called from the color of the sediment precii)itated along the course of the stream formed by them. They afford water enough to propel any ordinary kind of machinery. The Mater is of a temperature considerably above animal heat. Ogden City is the county-seat of Weber County; has a population of about 2,000, 1 saw-mill, 1 tlouring-mill ; and a court-house has been commenced, but not finished. There are about 3,000 acres of land in cultivation in its vicinity, of a qualit}- similar to that above described. Ogden Hole has aliout HOO inhabitants, 1 flouring-mill, and about 1,000 acres of good land in cultivation. Weber Fort has about 400 inhabitants. 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, and altont GOO acres of land in cultivation. There is also a scattering population in this county of about GOO, making the entire population of the county about 3, GOO. Farmington is the countv-seat of Davis County, and has a ])opidati(in of aljout 1,000, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, a court-house not quite flui.shed, and about 2,000 acres of land in cultivation. Centre^^lle and its vicinity has a population of about 1,000, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring- mill, and aboiit 2,000 acres of cultivable land, of a quality similar to that at (Jgden City. There are several other small settlements in this county, embracing- a i)opulation of about 800; making the entire population of the county about 2,800. Six miles south of Centreville are the noted Hot Springs, with a temperature but little below boiling4ieat, and too well known to require a description at present. Great Salt Lake City is the county-seat of Salt Lake County, and has a popula- tion of aljout 8,000 ; several public buildings, the most inq)osing of which are the new court-house (unfinished), the Tabernacle, the church-store, council-house, and the Social Hall ; but, above all these, lirigham Young's sujierl) mansion and Lion House tower Avith quite an oriental magnificence. The foundation of the Mormon Temple has been laid iqion the Temple Block, and in the spring of 1857 about 300 stone-cutters were engaged in preparing the materials for the building; but {m)/stcrlous arc Tliij ways 0! Lord) on the annoimce- ment of the advance of troops toward Utah, the sound of the war-bugle succeeded rorULATION AND RESOUKCES OF UTAH. 453 tlie sharp clink of tlie mason's chisel. Tlie consecrated earth has been carefully restored, and I am informed tliat no trace of tlie foundation-work is now to be seen. If this temple should ever l)e completed, it will l)e one of tlie most imi»osini;- edific(>s upon the American continent. There is a cloth-factory, a suo-ar-f;ictory, a nail-factory, and several flourino-mills in the suburbs of the city, and about 4,000 acres of fertile land in cultivation. There are several other small towns in this county, but unimportant, excej)t as forming- the habitations of the inhabitants of the farming and grazing- districts, and, taken together, afford a population of about (),000, making the entire jjopulation of Salt Lake County 14,000. Tooele City is the county-seat of Tooele County, and has about .S0() inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring'-miH, and about 1,000 acres of cultivable land, somewhat inferior to that about Salt Lake City, l)ut produces fine ci-ops of wheat, oats, melons, and potatoes. Grantsville and E. T. City are villages in the same county, and have each about 400 inhabitants, and about GOO acres of land in cultivation, with a saw-mill and flour- ing'-mill in the vicinity of the latter; making the entire population of this county abi>ut i,noo. Provo City is the county-seat of Utah County, and has a population of al)out 4,000, 2 flouring--mills, 1 saw-mill, 1 carding--machine, 1 pottery, and about 4,000 acres of land in cultivation in its vicinity, most of Avhich lies upon the banks of the Timpanogos, and near the shore of Lake Utah, and is unsurpassed in fertility b)' any land in the Territory. Springville is next to Provo in point of importance, and has about 2,000 inhabit- ants, 2 tlouring-mills, 1 saw-mill, 1 shingle and lathing machine, and al)out 2, GOO acres of land in cultivation of a rpiality similar to that at Provo. Springville is a thriving village of enterprising- people, but the tragical murder of Potter and the two Parishes, in the spring of 1.S57, nuist ever cleave like bird-lime to its history. Spanish Fork has about 2,000 inhabitants, 1 flouring-mill, and about 2,000 acres of land in cultivation. The land on this stream contains a slight admixture of lime and gypsum, and is celebrated for fine crops of wheat. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Danes, li\ing in excavations under ground, poorly clad, but industrious and frugal. Pond-town has about 300 inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, and about 400 acres of land in cidtivation. Payson has about 1,000 inhabitants, 1 flouring-mill, and a saw-mill and lathing- machine in its vicinity. It has about l,r)00 acres of cultivable land. Santaquin has about 300 inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, and about GOO acres of land in cultivation. Lehi, Lake City, and Pleasant Grove are situated on the northeastern shore of Lake Utah, and have each about 800 inhabitants, 2 flouving-mills in their vicinity, and about 1,500 acres of land in cultivation at each place. Mountainville, situated in tlu^ same neighjjorhood, has about 400 inhabitants, a 454 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIX OF UTAE. siw-mill, and about 600 acres of land in cultivation, making tlie entire population of Utah County about 12,400. Nephi is the count v-seat, and the only settlement,- in Juab County; has about GOO iuhal)itants, 1 saAV-mill, 1 flouring'-mill, and about 1,000 acres of land in cidtivation, of a quality similar to that at Spanish Fork. Mount Nebo, the highest peak of the Wah-satch Mountains, is in this county. Salt Creek Canon, about 2 miles east of the town, is at the foot of Mount Nebo, and is composed on the southeastern side of a solid mass of gypsum, more than 2,000 feet high, which crops out at several points along the side of the mountain for a distance of several miles, showing the quantity inexhaustible. Farther up toward the source of the creek, large beds of rock-salt crop out near the base of the mountain. Manti is the county-seat of San-pete County, and has about 600 inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, and about 1,200 acres of land in cultivation. At the base of the mountain, within the limits of the town-coiporation, is an extensive quan-y of limestone, well adapted for building-material and extensively used by the inhabitants. About 12 miles west of this town is an extensive stratimi of stone-coal, much resorted to by the blacksmiths of this and the adjoining counties. Fort Ephraim has about 600 inhabitants, 1 flouring-mill, and about 1,000 acres of land in cultivation. Extensive tracts of rich meadow-land lie in the vicinity of this settlement. All the tillable land in this county is fertile, and produces abundant crops of wheat, oats, and potatoes. Fillmore is the county-seat of Millard County, and the destined capital of the new State of Deseret, and has about 800 inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, and about 1,200 acres of land in cultivation. The state-house at this place, built in 1854 of red sandstone, is one of the most imposing edifices in the Territory. It is designed as the left wing only of the future capitol of the new State. There is a scattering pop- ulation in this county of about 200. There is a small settlement in Beaver Count}-, the population and resources of which are unknown to me. The coimty is said to be l)etter adapted for gi-azing than agriculture. Par-o-wan is the county-seat of Iron County, and has about 800 inhabitants, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, and about 1,000 acres of cultivable land. Cedar City, eighteen miles below Par-o-wan, has about 2,000 inhabitants, an iron-manufactory, 1 saw-mill, 1 flouring-mill, and about 3,000 acres of cultivable land. Stone-coal, iron-ore, and native sidphur are abundant in the vicinity of this settlement. There is a scattering population in this county of about 400. Ilarinonv is the county-seat of Washington, has about 600 inliabitants, and about 1,00«> acres of cultivable land. A rich mine of lead-ore has been discovered in this county, near the ^"agas, from which the Mormons undertook to supply themselves during the war witli the United Stixtes; but it is said to contain so large a percentage of silver that it could be iH-ofitabl}' worked for that mineral. The most remarkable event in tlio history of those two counties is the brutal massacre of 139 American citizens at Mountain Meadows, in September, 1857, by rOPULATION AND KKSOUKOES OF UTAH. 455 MoiiiuuKs and liuliaus, aiul tlio coiitiscatioii of their [)roporty to the so-called Olmrch of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. There are several small settlements in the remote eonnties, but I am not familiar with their population and resources. Owing to the limited amount of water for irrigation, there is but little room for increasing the area of cultivable land at any of these settlements except at Provo and Ogden. Perhaps the most valuable meadow-lands in the Territory are to be found upon the shores of Utah Lake. Extensive meadow-lands are also found in San-pete Count}', Juab County, and in the vicinity of Ogden in Weber County. G. Hurt. Capt. J. H. Simpson, Corps Topograplikal Engineers, Camp Floyd. Captain Simpson returns Jus fhanJis to Dr. Hurt. Office Topographical Engineers, Department of Utah, Camp Floyd, March 2(j, 1859. My Dear Sir : The statement you have sent me, by the hands of Dr. Forney, of the population, resources, etc., of this Territory, I received last evening, and I cannot express my thanks too warmly for the trouble you have taken in furnishing it. The statistics you give I consider most valuable, and tliey will form an important part of the report of my reconnaissances. I am, very respectfully and truly, yours, J. IT. Simpson, Captain Corps Topographical Engineers. Dr. Garland Hurt, Great Salt Lake City. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASTN OF UTAH. APPENDIX O. INDIANS OF UTAH. Dr. GARLAND HURT. 58BTJ INDIANS OF UTAH. By Dr. Garland Hurt. The following communication from Dr. Garland Hui't, who for several years was an Indian agent under the General Government in Utah, will be of interest to all who take an interest in ethnological subjects. I cannot agree, however, with the doctor in tlie idea which he appears to hold forth as to the original disparity of the races, and that any mode of treatment of the Indian tribes which ignores this doctrine, or rather which is ba'sed on the doctrine of the original unity of the race, must be attended with failure. I know it is the habit of many excellent and scientific men, as the doctor has done, to leave out in their philosophy a great truth — the greatest that has been divulged to the world — that the great I AM has spoken to man in his ignorance, and has given to him certain primary truths, which if he regard, he will assuredly live in light; but which if he disregard, he will as assuredly walk in darkness himself, and lead others into darkness. Among these great primary truths, I hold, is the unity of the race; and before any one, in my judgment, has a right to disbelieve it, he must first show that the source of knowledge of the Holy One, the Bible, which unbelievers have as yet only served to strengthen by their cavils and objections, is untrue, and therefore unworthy of being received as the grand text-book of individuals as well as of nations. This the history of that work through the ages which are gone, its internal evidences, and its acknowledged bearing on the happiness of the nations of the earth which have sincerely embraced it, show they will never be able to do. So far from it, it is the belief of the writer (however it may be the fashion of the mere moralist to deny it and sometimes to deride it) the greatest specimen of statesmanship is yet to be exhibited in the condition of a kingdom whose controlling officers shall be like Joseph and Daniel of Bible history and Washington of modern times, whose only fear seems to have been lest they shovild do wrong and run counter to the Divine mind. JJr. Garland Hurt to Captain Simpson. Washington, D. C, May 2, 1860. Dear Sir : In reply to your inquiries for information concerning the Indians in the TeiTitory of Utah, I would remark that numerous tribes are designated by persons living in the Territory, which, in my opinion, are susceptible of the following divisions and subdivisions, viz : Utahs: Pah-Utahs, Yamp-Pah-Utahs, Cheveriches, Pah-Vantes, San-pitches, Py-eeds. 460 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Sho-sho-nees : Snakes, Bannacks, To-si-witches, Go-sha-Utes, Cum-um-pahs. Py-Utes. Wall-shoes. The two latter tribes inhabit the country along the eastern base of the SieiTa Nevada Mountains, and are not sufficiently understood by me to enable me to speak of them in detail. The San-pitches speak the Utah dialect, and consequently I have classified them as a subdivision of that tribe, though they are greatly inferior to them in many respects, and the Py-eeds appear to occupy the same relation. The Gro-sha-Utes appear to be a hybrid race between the Sho-sho-nees and Utahs, and the same may be said of the Cmu-um-pahs, the difference between them growing out of their relations to the different bands or subdi\'isions of these tAvo tribes. These mixed bands are known as the Diggers, and commonly called Snake Diggers and Ute Diggers. The Snakes and Utahs proper are well fomied and featured, but of a darker complexion than the Indians of the plains east of the mountains. They are fierce and warlike in their habits, and have been at war with each other for several generations, and are likely to continue hostile. Each of these tril)es are also at war with other tribes whose temtories border on their own. The Snakes are at war with the Crows and Blackfeet, and the Utahs with the Cheyennes and Arrapa- hoes. They both, however, profess friendship for the white man. It is the boast of the Snakes, under a chief named Wash-i-chee, that the blood of the white man had never stained their soil. They occupy the country bordering on Snake River, Bear River, Green River^ and as far east as the Wind River. These bands of the Snakes are well supplied with horses and fire-arms, and subsist princi])ally by hunting. Formerly, the buffalo ranged in their country, and formed the principal game ; but according to their own accounts, which ajipear to be corroborated by tliose of the early trappers, these animals disap- peared from their range about thirty-fi%e years ago, in consequence of the severit}' of the winter, and have uot since returned.* At certain seasons, however, these animals visit the Sweetwater and Wind Rivers, whither the Snakes repair every summer and autumn to meet them, and this brings them in contact with the Crows, who regard them as trespassers, and have treated them accordingly, and hence the hostilities between the Snakes and Crows, which will be likely to continue so long as the buffalo continues to range upon these waters. The inferior bands of this tribe, especially the To-si-witches (White Knives), inhab- iting the Humboldt River — who take their name from a beautiful white flint, which they procure from the adjacent mountains, and use as knives in dressing their food — are a * Note by Captain Simpson. — Governor Denver, when Commissioner of Indian Att'airs, addressed a letter to Hon. Alex ander H. Stephens, Representative in Congress, January 18, 1859, in reference to the proposed new Territory, including the gold-region of the Pike's Peak country, in which he says the following in relation to the range of the buffalo : " Herds of buffalo frequent the plains along the eastern sides of the Rocky Mountains, but none have ever been found farther to the westward. Indeed, there is scarcely any evidence that buffaloes ever crossed that rocky barrier. Their range seems to have been confined almost exclusively to the great valley of the Mississippi." The governor is here evidently wrong, for I have seen a number of skulls of buffalo in Echo Canon, and in the upper part of the Timpanogos Valley, all show- ing that at not a very remote period the buffalo roamed west of the Rocky Mountains. Besides, Fremont, in his report of his second expedition across the Rocky Mountains, expressly states (p. 144) that the buffalo ranged west of these mouutains up tp 1838 or 1840 ; and the tratlitions of the Indians, as given above by Dr. Hurt, certainly corroborate It. mOIANS OF UTAH. 461 very treacherous people ; and the Bamiacks, Go-slia-Utes, and Curn-um-pahs are not much less so. These latter bands are in the habit of infesting the emigration-road between the Soda Springs and the Bear River and the head of the Humboldt, during the season of emigration to California; and it is believed, and, I think, not without plausible foundation, that pei'sons residing within the setttlements of Utah encourage these spoliations by offering a market for the property thus obtained. The Utahs proper inhabit the waters of Green River south of the Green River Mountains, the Grand River and its tributaries, and as far south as the Navajo country. They also claim the country bordering on Utah Lake and as far south as the Sevier Lake, as theirs. They also subsist principally by hunting, and have the same traditions as to the final disappearance of the buffalo from their hunting-grounds that the Snakes have ; and it is their effoi'ts to penetrate into the territories of the Arrapahoes and Cheyennes in pursuit of their receding game that have entailed upon them a most destructive war, in which their enemies have the advantage in arms and ammunition, but not in bravery; for it is my opinion, from a familiar acquaintance with them, that there is not a braver tribe to be found among the aborigines of America than the Utahs, none warmer in their attachments, less relenting in their hatred, or less capable of treachery. So complex is their nature that to trust them it is necessary to understand them. Owing to the disappearance of the buffalo, and the scanty supply of smaller game, which is continually growing less, these Indians are occasionally reduced to the most extreme state of want, and the weaker families are compelled to subsist upon roots, plants, and insects. Some of the inferior bands of both Snakes and Utahs are almost continually in a state of starvation, and are compelled to resort almost exclusively to small animals, roots, and insects for subsistence. Among the more vigorous bands, the principal employments are hunting, fishing, shooting, horse-racing, and gambling. All the labor except hunting devolves upon their females, who di'ess their skins, and make them into clothing or lodges or prepare them for the market. The father holds his female children as his slaves, and demands a stipulated price for them in marriage. Some of their females are well-featured and bring good prices, but generally a few buckskins or a pair of blankets will purchase a bride. Their females are also excessively addicted to gambling. The mode of gambling with both sexes is quite similar, a number of sticks being used in place of cards. They are so infatuated with this arrangement that I have known parties of them to refrain from eating and sleeping for twenty-four hours at a time, and gamble, with but little intermission. Between the Utahs proper and the Py-eeds there is a species of traffic which I believe is not known among any other tribes upon the continent. I allude to the bartering of childi-en. So abject and degraded are the Py-eeds that they will sell their children to the Utahs for a few trinkets or bits of clothing. The Utahs carry these childi-en to New Mexico, where they find a profitable market for them among the Navajoes; and so important is it in enabling them to supply themselves with 462 EXPLOEATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. blankets from the Navajoes, who nianiifacture a superior ai'ticle of Indian blankets, that the trade has become quite indispensable ; and so vigorously is it prosecuted that scarcel}^ one-half of the Fy-eed childi-en are pennitted to grow up in the band; and, a large majority of those being males, this and other causes are tending to depopulate their bands very rapidly. These. Py-eeds indulge in a rude sj^ecies of agriculture, which they probably derived from the Spanish Jesuits, and perpetuate only as a matter of necessity, and that in the most primitive form. Their productions are corn, beans, and squashes. They have no farming-implements, and of course what they thus produce costs them twice the amount of labor that would be necessary with proper facilities. The Py-eeds are perhaps the most timid and dejected of all the tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, being regarded by the Utahs as their slaves. They not unfre- quently take their children from them by force. I have learned from the Utahs, however, that they much prefer obtaining them peaceably if they possibly can ; but when pacific measures fail, some of their men prefer to take them by force than to be disa})pointed. This is the band of Indians who the Mormons say conmiitted the massacre at the Mountain Meadows in the month of September, 1857 ; but any one at all acquainted with them must perceive at once how utterly absurd and impossible it is for such a report to be true, for I feel safe in asserting that ten men well armed could defend themselves against the largest force that this band could muster. Their religious ceremonies are quite simple and primitive, being nearly the same among them all. They recognize but one God, or Great Spirit, whom they call by different names among different tribes ; but their conce])tions of the attributes of the Deity are generally limited and erroneous. Smoking seems to be one of their religious ceremonies, and is generally indulged in with great solemnity, especially in their national councils. They are ver}^ superstitious, and frequently attribiite natural events to super- natural causes, as the changes and eclipses of the moon. Some of them have an idea that anything asked for on the first sight of the new moon will be granted by the Great Spirit. The sun appears to be with the most of them the embodiment or rej^resentation of the Great Spirit, and supplications are frequently made to the rising sun as to a rational being. But in all these ceremonies, their conceptions seem to fall infinitely below a rational comprehension of the object of their adoration, and often developing an inconsistency not easily reconciled with an enlightened idea of true religious devotion. Their family-relations are patriarchal, and the practice of polygamy is indulged. The marriage-ceremony, being very simple, is often celebrated privately. In their funeral-ceremonies, the deepest grief is manifested sometimes by inflicting punishment upon themselves. They will, on the death of a principal person, kill their horses, burn their lodges and clothing, and not unfrequently sacrifice their prisoners, cut their hair very short, and refrain from food, in some instances going without eating or drinking for several days. INDIANS OF UTAH. 463 The females of the bereaved family observe the season of mom-ning with tlie most bitter lamentations, and for months after the death of a luisband tliey greet the early morning with loud and piteous cries. But the warrior scorns to weep, and prefers to manifest his bereavement by cutting and carving his flesh, Avhich he sometimes in- dulges to such an extent as to endanger his own Jife. They have no literature, and can scarcely be said to have a history of their own tribes or families. The few traditions that have descended to them are too vague, indis- tinct, and disconnected to be relied on as a history beyond the first preceding genera- tion. They are firm believers in charms, legerdemain, and necromancy, and in the man- agement of their sick these superstitious devices constitute their principal treatment, which their patients submit to with the most unbounded faith. Each band has its medicine-man, whom they treat with great respect and par- tiality. Among all the tribes of this region tliere is the same indisposition to habits of industry, indolence being the nile and industry the exception, and nothing but the keenest impulses of necessity can impel them to action. But this characteristic they, I believe, only possess in common with all the infe- rior tribes of our species, and, with a view to their civilization, is an item worthy of much consideration. Intellectually tliey appear to be as well endowed as most of the native tribes of this continent ; yet there seems to be a want of some of those higher intellectual endowments which render our own race progressive and so eminently fit us for the enjoyment of an enlightened government. The discussion of this subject involves a comparison of the races and invites an inquiry into the causes of the dispar- ity that now exists between them, whether that disparity arises out of mental or phys- ical inequality, or both; to what extent tliat inequality is capable of retarding their progress in the advancement of civilization, arts, and science. It appears to be the opinion of a large number of our modern philanthropists that all beings possessing the human form were originally endowed witli an equality that ever forbids the idea of inferiority. With an eye single to this similarity in physical form, they seem to overlook the mental inequality, or attribute it to a want of culture ; and hence the misguided zeal for the improvement of many of the colored races, whose mental inferiority is a fixed and demonstrable fact, which must ever and inevitably define their position in the scale of political importance, and renders the idea of their future elevation to an equality with the Caucasian race uttei'ly preposterous, and can only exist in the misguided wan- derings of a perverted imagination. They have shown from tlieir earliest generations their incapacity for any except the most simple forms of government, such as would assimilate them to some species of the gi'egarious animals, whom they approximate to in this respect and imitate as much as they do the higher orders of their own species. The conclusions, then, to which we miist arrive by tliis course of reasoning are obvious. Fu'st. That by becoming the constant recipients of our care and sympathy their condition is temporarily ameliorated, but only so during the application of that care and sympathy. 464 EXPLORATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. Secondly. By amalgamation we elevate them at the expense of the degradation of the superior race. Thirdly. By coercion they are made subservient to the intellect of the superior race, and made to bear the burden of their own suljsistence, by controlling and directing their physical energies into the cliannels of usefulness. There is a misguided philan- thropy which seems to be constantly directing our energies to the accomplishment of what in tlie nature of things is utterly impossible, and which it is the province of moral philosophy to coirect. These eiTors are exemplified in the attempt of our Government, at the expense of millions of treasure, to improve the moral and social condition of the aboiigines of the country, who continue to sink lower in degradation and want, and are annually diminishing in numbers. While a small African colony, in the Southern States of the confederacy, under what some are pleased to .style tyranny and oppression, have swelled to a powerful nation, infinitely more happy than the Indians or than themselves could be without the controlling influence of the superior race. These x\fricans, Ave repeat, are infinitely more happy and prosperous than it were possible for them to be without the controlling influence of the superior race ; while at the same time, instead of diminishing they contribute to swell the sources of the national revenue. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, Garland Hurt. Capt. J. H. Simpson, U. S. A. Washington, D. C, May 5, 1860. Dear Sir : Your very valuable letter, in relation to the Indians in Utah Territory, I have just received and read with a great deal of interest. It will constitute an important portion of my forthcoming report. I agree with you in all you say, except as to the original disparity of the races, and the impossibility of their restoration to the same level of physical, mental, moral, and religious condition. The same God who has for wise pui-poses permitted the degradation of some portions of the human family, can also by His Spirit so breathe upon mankind as to cause them, through the purcliased redemption of His only beloved Son, to see each other eye to eye, and to delight themselves in the common blessings of one united family. This view is per- fectly consistent to my mind with the coercion, for a time, of the inferior races to labor, of which you speak, and which I believe is one of the divinely appointed means to that end.* Very respectfully, yours, J. H. Simpson, Captain Topographical Engineers. Dr. Garland Hurt. "And I might have added that the history of Cherokeee, Creeks, Choctaws, Chickasaws, and other tribes in our own country, including the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico, as also that of the inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, is confirmatory of ray position. EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OP UTAH. APPENDIX P. REPORT ON THE LANGUAGES OF THE DIFFERENT TRIBES OF INDIANS INHABITING THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. LIEUT. C. R. COLLINS, TOrOGEAI'HlCAL ENGIITEEES. 59 b U A.P3?»E]SrDi:X P REPORT ON THE LANGUAGES OF THE DIFFERENT TRI15ES OF INDIANS INHABITING THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. Bv Lieut. C. R. Coixin.s, TopOGnArmcAi, Enginf.kus. Washington, D. C, August 30, 1860. Sir: Having received instructions from you to arrange the several lists of Indian words wliich you have collected in your recent explorations, in a form suitable for the purposes of comparison, I accordingly submit the accompanying comparative vocabu- lary which I have di'awn up, together with a statement relative thereto. The vocabularies furnish specimens of the languages of the Utes or Utahs, the Shoslionees or Snakes, the Fi-iites, and the WasJiocs, together with a few numerally, of the I-at language. The result of an examination and comparison of these languages shows quite a similarity between the Ute or Utah, the Shoshonee, and the Pi-ute ; while the Washoe is apparently quite distinct in its characteristics. The few I-at numerals which ai-e given are insufficient for the purposes of classi- fication. The resemblance of the first three languages to each other seems quite sufficient to warrant the conclusion that they have a common origin, and that the corresponding tribes should be placed in the same primary ethnological group. This classification is based entirely on the resemblance of language, shown by the vocabulary; it is possible, however, that tribes living in contact with each other may acquire a similarity of language by the adoption of members of one tribe into the other. Captives taken and absorbed into the tribe must necessarily have an influence upon the language. A minute examination of the construction of the language, and particularly of the declination of the verbs, would be a more accurate method of com- parison, but would require more material than we at present possess. In the ethnological classification of Indian tribes given by Schoolcraft, he ap- plies the name of Shoshonee to the fifth primary group, located, according to his report, "in the Rocky Mountains, the higher Red River, and the hill country of Texas; and embracing the Shoshonees or Snakes, the Bannacks or Root-diggers, and the Comanches 468 EXPLOKATIONS ACEOSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. of Texas." If we assign a place in this gronp to tlie Utes or Utahs, and tlie ri-utcs, it will extend its area westwardly to the base of the SieiTa Nevada.* Further ethnological investigations may result in ascribing to other unclassified tribes a place in the same group. The language of the Washoes appears to bear no resemblance to any of those given in Schoolcraft's collection of vocabularies, nor does it seem to be at all related to the Slwslwnee. There is a soiu'ce of error and difficulty in instituting a comparison between specimens of Indian languages, which arises from the method of obtaining them. The vocabularies are frequently obtained from different individuals, who, of course, attempt by the use of the English alphabet to represent the sounds of the words as pronounced by the Indians from whom they are obtained; it is probable if several persons attempt, in this way, to indicate the same Indian word, no two of them would represent it in the same manner, or by the same letters; moreover, as the word is uttered in the Indian's characteristic guttural manner, and there being in an unwritten language no authority for correct pronunciation, the pecidiarity of each indiv-idual's utterances is likely to be jieipetuated m vocabularies made from information obtained from them. There are several words of different languages in the accompan^-ing vocabularies, which, though spelt differently, are undoubtedly meant for the same Avords, or at least are derived from the same source; in such cases the sounds of the words, as they are pronounced, generally bear more resemblance than their appearance as they are rep- resented. Among the cases of similarity of words from the Ute, Pi-iite, and SliosJionee, we find Pah, meaning water, to be common to all of them, and it may also be remarked the same word means water in the language of the Pueblo Indians of Jemez and Old Pecos, as given in vocabularies previously obtained.f The words for face, eye, mother, house, sun, ice, snake, with several others, are common to all of the languages here given, except the Washoe, while there are others, which so nearly resemble each other as to point to a common origin, if indeed they are not intended for the same word; these are found in the Indian for nose, beaver, day, summer, wmter, &c. There are frequent instances in these languages of compound words being formed by the union of two or more elementary ones; in some of these cases we know the meaning of all the syllables, or component words; in other cases, some of them may be recognized, and the meaning of othei's inferred from the meaning of the entire com- bination. Allowance must be made for the elision due to the junction of several in- dependent words in a compound one. Pah, meaning water, occurs as a syllable in the word Pah-emp, which means rain; the latter syllable being in all probability derived from Too-oomp or sky, thus making Pah-oomp, Pali-emp or sky-water. Hail is Pali-oo-wnp ; ice, Pah-kup ; the element Pah, also enters into the words for otter, beaver, duck, and fish, in one or the other of the dialects here given. * Since writing the above I have observed that Prof. W. W. Turner has also placed the VtaJts and Pi-Utes in the Shoahonee group ; and has also connected the Kioicai/ tribe with the same family. (Pacific Railroad Reports, vol. iii.) tJournal of a military reconnaissance from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Navajo country, in 1^49, by Lieut. J. H. Simpson, Corps Topographical Engineers. LANGUAGES OF THE INDIANS OF UTAH. 469 The notes whicli are nppendetl to the vocabulary, give all the necessary informa- tion with regard to the arrano-oment of the ditVerent lists of words furnished by their respective authorities. Very respeetfull}', your obedient servant, C. R. Collins, Brevet Second Lieutenant TopnorapMeal Engineers. Capt. J. II. Simpson, Corps Toporiraphleal Enr/'meers. A comparative vocabulary of Indian words. Eniflisb words. God Devil Mau Woinau Hoy Girl Infant, child Father Mother Hnsband Wife Son Danghter Brother Sister Indian Head Hair Face Forehead Ear Eye Nose Month Tongue Tooth Beard Neck Arm Hand Fingor.s NaiKs Body Belly Breasts Man's privates....' Woman's privates Leg Foot Toes Bone Heart Bh.od Town, village Chief Warrior Friend House, hnt . Cup Kettle Bottle Arrow Name of tribe. Ute or Utah. vShi-nc-babe Shi-neb To-wats Maui-a-shodo ... I-pids Nange-it Pae-sh n tz Maw-ah Te-ah Pa-nni Mah-show-er To-watz Pa-ditz Tschodge Nah-niuge Noontz Tots-nte Tots-u-obe Ko-bah Hoo-tok-ut Nnn-go-bee Poo-i b Mo-\vip Tumb-bwnp Ah-woomp Tah-ump Mnus-ump Pah-Tveep Poor-nb Mu-ur-ve Mah-shub See-joonib Womp-tahb . ... Shangh-ab Ning-oop Wap Nig-nmp Pnug-a-boo Nam-bap Pee-ret-tombe . . Obe Peep Pap Kant Shoshouco or Snake.^ Pi-au-daut . Tiue-np Wipe Yani-bau Nah-wich Tur-ra-fn-ritz Ap Be-ah Be-wah Goo-up An-doo-ah Bi-deh Dam-mie Nah-wie Nu-nh Bam-by Poug-gnsh Go-bah I"-gi Ne-ink Boo-ee Mo-wy . Tam-bah Igk Mnntz Go itch Go-itch Boor-rah Maw Mas-suck Mas-sit-dah Kaw-v Nuh.'. Shouk VVoo-ah Die Bung-gup Nump Tash-e-toh Tats-se-oh Be Fru-up Tah-ab-tits-kan... Ne-ab Ti-gon-up Ni-uk-ue-ab Noo-ve-tiug-up, chana- shun-be-uah. Tig-a-boo ! Hinch, tig-ga-boonch.. Kaut I Kant '. Kar-tridge .. Pam-boont .. Too-pootz . .. Ou-as-iu-too . A- woo Wc-wib-too-ah Too-pe-otz Hoo-pab Nis-mer-nah Ti-oni-le. Sn-ti Sem-em-sho. Na-na Sa-li-hou. Mo-gob Se-moh-nioli. Nat-che Ma-hou. Tu-ah Shoul-cnni-hough. O-ah Be-gus. Nab Ta-grih. Be-ab Te-lah. Go-mah Te-bu-mah-Io. No-dug-we I Tnu-lian. Ud-du-ab Teng-ane. Ur-bur-dah I Teug-aui-ongh. Ur-bah-beh i Te-bag-ough. Ha-ma Te-e-sah. Ner-mer En-you-geh. Er-snd-pig La-hep. Wah Ly-honsh. Ko-bali Tic-maish. En-ah Tic-ca-be. Er-nok-ah | Tip-e-son. Boo-ee i Te-we-gu. Mo-be Te show-e-yep. Do-bah Te-huug-ab. E-qnah Tic-mali-doudt. Da-mah Cey-yeet. Mas-su-o Chec-mel. Goo-tah La-bou. Ber-tah La-bough. Mi-ee La-dough. Ma-gon De-too- le-sic. See-doo De-loo-lepe. Ner-wah | Lah-get. Coo-he j La-yob. Ning-oh Lem-bah. Be-gsb I Te-mon-cush. Sou j Tee-bcs.s. Con-op j Lah-hnl. Ger-ger ' Te-my-yept. Doh-goh Dee-too-le-sic. Oh-ho ! Teah-be. Bo-wa ...I Lcw-lah. Per-pe Nak-got-eb Nar-buu-ah Nak-ko-et Ber-ah Na-vie Ge-tah Op-oh 0-tah Po-onsh Tah-soong. Teng-a-hi-mc-lon. Too-bag-ou. Co-me-sou-co-leh. Soii-la-deh. Lang-ell. Cbing-ou-na-me. Ka-wa-lou. Ca-tep. Mas-ke-set. 470 EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH. Yoeahidary of Indian xcords — Continued. Eiiglisli words. Bow Ax, hatchet , Knife Cauoe, l)oat- Moccasins, shoes Bread Pipe, calnuiet Tobacco Sky Heaven Sun Moon Star Day Light Night Darkness Morning . Evening , Spring Snmuier Autumn Winter Wind Lightning Thunder Rain Snow Hail Fire Water Ice Earth, laud Sea River Creek Lake Valley Hill Mountain Island Stone, rock Salt.. Copper Iron Maize Tree Wood Leaf Bark Oak Pine Flesh, meat Beaver Otter Deer Grass Bison, buffalo Bear Wolf D"g Fox Squirrel Rabbit, hare Snake Bird Kgg Goose Duck Chicken Pigeon Partridge, (sage hen) Name of tribe. Ute or Utah. Hadz Me-pood-peu-en On-witz Ur-ve-shock Pats Pan, (same as Spanish) Soonk Quap Too-wint-up At-too-wip Tap Mur-toads Poorts-ip Tat-be Pau-niu-night-te Too-wiut Too-or-ip Itch-cooch Tall- wy-e-cup Tah-mant Tady U-gwunt Tom , Nerd Pan-nuck-shet Nun-wint Pah- wars , Nu-bub Pi-ab Coout , Pah Pah-kup Too-winip Pah- wad-rid Too-quint Me-poods-too-qniut Me-poods-pah-ardid You-ab Pi-ab Ki-be Too-witz-tuek-idge Toomp Wi-ab Ung-o-pah-nock-it Pah-nock-it Co-me Mah-ab Oo-qnep Nung-ah-up Hasli-soop Que-ub Ah-oomp Tooquab Pah-oontz Pah-vit-zook Too-e Oo-gwoob Kootz Que-aut Yo- woods Cha-ridge Tah-bou-ditz Spiss Chnck-am To-wab Wid-didge Nah pab Hah-bah-munk Tsng Ham-bnng Hy-y ou-en-booug Shee-jeh Shoshonee or Snake. Ide Ah-durg Oo-hun-ne Wer-suk-en We We-he Pe-ah-vunk Sack-ke Namp Moc-co To-she-kik-up To-hut-eca-ba .. Pitch-shemo To-esh Too-pah Pa-moh Too-oomp Coo-me-bah War-rah-so-up Tap Moo-ah-tap Tats-in-up Tah-be-dog-e Tah-ke Too-gau-ne Po-etch-cush Tah-y-am-wie Tah-ka-wit-pah-shur .. Tods E-by-ide Tar-kar-wan Noo-y Teme-bab-utch We-ke Pah-eni p Tah-kep-pe Pah-oo-nnip Koo-nah Pah Pah-kup Shock-up Sin-ur-bah O-gwint Shock-o-bah Pab-gnd-dau Pah-un-np Toh-yup Quid-u-went Cbe-nump Timp Ou-gwup Port A-nip Op-koo-oer-vant . Tsick-np Shamp Ike Won-go-np To-queah Hau-witch Pahn-sook Too-pe Show-nip Go-witch Neer-ah So-wor-rah Char-re Warn-nes Ku-ump Tap To-quah Te-huuty Po- wood-ge Ne-guut Pah-o Shy Houe-dah Pe-sah Tab-ah Mer-ah Pah-too-op-a Tah-bee-no Tah- weep To-kan To-kan-no Awa-mooc Youg-on Tad-sah Tod-y ep-a Eu-bau-a Toh-moh Hey-gwip Ter-qua-que-yepa Ner-nah-ah-bah Pah-oniah Ter-gra-bah Har gwa-dig-wa Coo-son Pah Pah-geh-o-va Ta-pe Pali-ne-nad Hoop Toots-e-hoop Pab-ne-nad Yer-per Quid-du-ep Ki-ebe Pab-soe-a-ted To-be Oug-au-a Won-con-yon-dip ■Same as knife Corn O-sag-mag-wa Koo-nah Ah-noc-ah Wah-ac-cat We-eb Wo-cue-be Ah-ber-did-doc Pab-u-uak Pah-n-sang Der-herd Wha-hab-e Cud-son Pad- wah Esh-sah We-seg-wog Wah-lie We-dane Cam-me To-quah Hood-y e-bah Ar-no-uaugh Na-giner Per-her ... Que-uah Pan-he-ob Wee-hoop-o-ah . Tak-loh-hot. E-car-sen. Tow-eng-an-yeng. Ta-nnp. Te-mo-congs. Tem-lon. Bang-dus-duc. Bang-cnsh. To-ma-hnm. Cum-nac-sa-sa-sch. Tou-gil-ah-gu-sots. Tee-bah. Mah-la-snng. Ah-bah. O-dah-se-weh. Tow-e-day-e-you. Was-leh. To-pah-tceu. Se-gah-but. Am-suc. Oh-osh. Ca-Icsh. Ta-ge-ene. To-ah-osh. Tah-hew-e-ach. To-ah-osh. Ta-dah-ash. Se-go-gum-oh. Teb-yo. Te-mah. Tou-ba-sut. Ha-ow-na. Ta-hou. Wa-tah. Too-goh-got. Ta-hou. Ta-moh-wa. Tou-lon-oug-goh. Ta-lah-act. Tou-me-you-tah. Tah-ech. Ung-ah-a-per. Wel-kep-kep. Same as knife. Corn. Ki-osh-le. Tou-lou-bul. Tou-yah-yet. Mah-to-kip-te. Mal-uah-ge. Sou-wah. Ta-push. Tah-nesh. Cha-wa-wa. Mem-tah-we. Hor-se-pe. Go-sou. Ta-ba. Too-le-sch. Cho-coli. Mo-gui>. Ou-che-le. Pah-Ion. Ma-a-kee. Geh-vonk. Ti-oh-gul. Sam-urk. Te-lach. Pat-se-eu-neh. Oug-a-hah-di-al-el. Wah-tel-ah-leh. LANGUAGES OF TOE INDIANS OF UTAU. Vocabulary of Indian tcords — Contiuued, 471 Eucrlish words. Name of tribe. Shoshonee or Snake. Turkey Fish White Black Red Blue Yellow Green Great, big Small, little ... Strong Old , Young Good Bad Handsome Ugly Alive, life Dead Death Cold Warm I Thou , He We Ye They This That All , Many, much Who Near , Over ., To-day Yesterday To-morrow Yes No And Times, (Fr. /oi«) Kat Diink Run Dance , Go Come Sit Stand Sing Sleep Speak See Love Kill Walk Bury Who is that?... Pan-dah-mo-witz Pah-gall T-shard Too-gut Un-guard Tchower Koi-run-gwat , Quer-shower , Hah-bat , Me-poods Toot- ten-gee Nan-nan-poods Hah-grut At Hods-at At-um-boon-e-kah Hudy-at-boou-e-kah . . . Kody-e-ey e Yae-iiuah Yae-i]uah Shoop-pwi Koo-toor-idy Moon-eh Oom Munk Noorap Moont Mah-pat Inch Match Mah-uoon-e Hab-bou Hung-e Tah-ve-noonk Quand-doo Tab-by Ker-erd Ate-shook Hoo-qua Rods Tani-me Kodz-in-e-tog-e Tnck-e He-be Tog Wippy Pi-rc-