BANCROFT LIBRARY THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA CU 0 rt$2 OLUJ Out] Document No. 9. IX THE ASSEMBLY.] [SESSION 1854. REPORT ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE COAST MOUNTAINS, AND PART OF THE SIERRA NEVADA EMBRACING THEIR INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES IN AGRICULTURE AND MINING, BY DR. JOHN B. TRASK. [B. B. REDDING, STATE PRINTER. F _ Pursuant to resolution of Assembly, passed Feb. ' — , 1854, I have the ^_honor herewith to submit the accompanying report on the Geology of Xthat portion of the State, authorized by Joint Resolution of Senate and Assembly of the fourth session, all of which, with accompanying plates, is respectfully submitted. Yours, &c. JOHN B. TKASK. • To THE SENATE AND ASSEMBLY OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. Under the Joint Eesolution, passed May 6. 1853, by the Senate and Assembly of the State of California, authorizing a farther Geological ex amination of some parts of the Sierra Nevada and Coast Mountains, and report the results of the same to the ensuing Legislature, I have the honor of submitting the following report in relation thereto, and in con formity to the above requisitions. JOHN B. TRASK. PREFACE. The examinations authorized were entered upon soon after the passage of the resolution, and continued until the 28th of November, comprising a period in the field of about six months. The first five weeks were occupied in examinations of the more elevated and western portions of the Counties of Butte, Sierra, Yuba, Nevada and Placer, in determining, as far as possible, the position of an ancient water course in this section of the State, and its peculiarities — the description of which will be found in the body of this report. On the 23d June, the southern portion of the tour was commenced, and carried on almost uninterruptedly for four months. The route south was carried through the Counties of San Francisco, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, Monterey, and the north part of Luis Obispo ; on the west, and returning on the east, (or through that range denominated the Monte Diablo Eange) by the west part of Tulare County, Mariposa, Tuolumne, Alameda, Contra Costa and San Joaquin. The range of country bounded on the north by the Straits Carquinez, and south by the Nacismiento, was divided into four sections, formed by lines running nearly east and west from the great valley to the coast. On the first of October, the country north of the Straits Carqui nez was entered, and preliminary examinations only were made in the counties of Solano, Napa and Sonoma, From the County of Napa a section was carried across the basin of the Sacramento, and connected with, examinations made two years previous on its eastern edge. A sim ilar section was also made, passing eighteen miles south of Monte Diablo and continued across the San Joaquin. The remainder of the months of October and November was employ ed in investigations of the middle mining sections of the County of Ne vada and those intermediate between the former and the middle and western parts of Calaveras county. This range leads through that sec tion in which the principal gold mines of the middle portions of the State are located, and was selected, with the view of conducting those examinations which will be found in the appendix of this report, under the head of Quartz Mining. As those mines have of late presented many in teresting facts connected with their ultimate prospects, a set of sketches 8 [APPENDIX representing the positions of the views and investing rocks has been given for illustrating their present features. Doing the tour in the agricultural sections of the State, the modifica tions of the soils in different sections has been noted, and the natural productions arising as resultants, where they seemed of a general charac ter, and extending over any considerable area. The " Saline lands " have been observed, and the opportunities that were offered for their re clamation, whed at any time demanded. The extent of cropping and re sultant crops in some parts of the State, are of peculiar interest, and the facts developed in this particular will prove of much value to our agri cultural interests, being an exhibition of the capabilities of some our soils for the production of the necessaries of life, unexcelled in the his tory of the world. The temperature of the mountainous and valley sections of both branches of the coast mountains, was noted as far as the nature of attending cir cumstances would permit, for the purpose of ascertaining as far as pos sible the peculiar adaptation of the different sections to the culture of exotic fruits and trees, and where no opportunity of personal examina tion offered, a careful inquiry of persons long resident in different sec tions, was made, by which many interesting facts have been obtained, relating to this subject. This report will embrace the examination of a district of countrv, in cluded within 120° 16' and 122° 32' west longitude, and from the thirty- fifth parallel to the thirty-ninth degree of north latitude, inclusive of the coast mountains and mineral districts. The coast mountains are watered by thirty-two streams, the most of which are small, their names and the counties in which they are located will be found below. COUNTY. EIVER. Sonoma, Sonoma, — Napa, Napa. — Contra Costa. Merced. — Alameda. San Antonio. — •»,*•» San Leandro. — San Lorenzo. — Alameda. — Santa Clara, Coyote. — Aguagos. San Felipe. — Gaudalupe. — Los €ratos. — Camels. — Llagos. Carnadero. — Pescadero. — La Brae. — Santa Cruz. San Lorenzo.— Lougell. — Syante. — San Augustine, — Doc. No. 9.] 9 * COUNTY. EIVER. Corallitos. Monterey. Pajaro. San Benito. Carmello. — • Berjeles. — San Antonio. Salinas. — Francisquito. — San Luis Obispo. Nacismiento. San Francisco. San Mateo. San Francisquito. — There are twenty-three of these streams which furnish a sufficient quantity of water for milling purposes, and are marked with a dash, ( — ) the above list does not include many small arroyas that course through these sections. REPORT, The coast range of mountains, and its included valleys, which form the principle subject of this report, extend from the 42nd paralel north latitude to the southern boundary of the State. Their general features present much more diversity of character than is usually to be found in the eastern chain of mountains, which forms the Sierra Nevada ; from the occurrence of a greater variety of rocks constituting their mass, and the much greater area of covered by the sedimentary formations, the principle of which are sandstones, interspersed occasionally with calca reous rocks, and more rarely slates ; this latter class of rocks forming but a small proportion of the sedimentary formations, of which later ex tensive portions of the coast line of mountains is composed. The eastern belt of the coast range presents a repulsive aspect to the traveller as he approaches it from either hand, from its naked and bar ren appearance, producing but little of forest growth in any part of it, while those portions of the coast line of hills proper, are covered to a great extent with forest trees, consisting principally of the redwood, pine, and spruce, with groves of oak near their base, all of which are well adapted to the wants of the settler and usually easy of access. This peculiarity in the two principal ridges of this chain was general for near three hundred miles of their course, the eastern ridge presenting no traces of timber except here and there an isolated patch of the pine on some one of its higher points ; and for miles in extent even low shrubs are almost entirely absent, Notwithstanding the barren aspect of the eastern belt of the coast ' mountains, it is not to be inferred that their slopes or valleys are unpro ductive, for it is found to be otherwise, being covered with a luxuriant growth of native grains and grasses, with herbaceous plants, affording extensive pasturage for flocks and herds. The lower foothills of the range, and the immediate banks of the small streams that meander through them, afford a few scattering oaks and other trees, but not suffi cient in extent to furnish more than a very small local demand, to so extensive a population as the valley sections at the base of these hills must in a few years require. The oak groves found on the plains are 12 [APPENDIX not adapted to any other uses than that of fencing and for fuel. The western or coast line of mountains must become the principal source of supply, in lumber for building purposes, except that which may be ob tained by importation. The coast range consists of two principal and distinct lines of ridges for a distance of nearly two hundred miles of their length ; these are separated from each other by wide and long valleys that continue almost uninterrupted through their whole course, and should be considered as distinct ranges of one system both from their geographical position as re lates to the mountains in which they are situated. The valleys have recieved different names, as the Santa Clara and Salinas ; and these again are subdivided and recieve local names even on the same line of plain ; they can be considered strictly but one valley, the lineo f continuity be ing broken by the interposition of a range of hills, not exceeding in altitude three hundred feet, and even below these figures. This division of the Salinas from the Santa Clara is caused by a low spur putting in from the Gabilan range, in a direction nearly north-west. Across the northern part of this spur the PajaroEiver, an inconsiderable stream, holds its course, discharging its waters into the Bay of Monterey. The extend and geographical position of these two valleys would seem to warrant a different arrangement than that at present existing in reference to the coast range ; as they form a line as distinct and clear in the sepa ration of the two principal ridges, as the valleys Sacramento and San Joaquin in the separation of the coast range on the west from the Sierra Nevada on the east. The division of the coast range proposed will be bounded as follows : commencing at a, point due east of Monte Diablo on the valley San Joa quin, the latter and the Tulare valley to form the east line to the inter section of both ranges with the San Bernardino Mountains, near the thirty- fifth degree north latitude, thence running west to a point that shall cut the west base of this range, and lying on the north-western border of the Salinas, thence north along the west border of the latter, and also the west border of the valley Santa Clara to the south-east terminus of the bay San Francisco, following the east coast of that bay to the point San Pablo. This range inclusive to be denominated the Monte Diabolo, and all moun tains to the west of these lines to be still termed the " Coast Mountains." This division in the mountains now bearing the latter name, will become the more necessary when it is understood that much difficulty now exists in localizing phenomena and transactions that have from time to time occurred, as well also as another distinctive feature which marks them, viz : their relative age, the one being of comparative recent date to the other. The term "Coast Eange" implies a line of mountains following the coast only, but which, as it is used at the present time, includes a chain whose eastern base is as far removed from the coast, as the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada are from Bodega Bay on a line cutting through the City of Sacramento to the ocean. This chain, it will be seen, is se parated by broad and long valleys, as distinct in their characteristics^ as the Sacramento and San Joaquin, while their length, including the bay San Francisco, equals the latter and has nearly half its average breadth. The geological and mineral characteristics of the two ranges are equally Doc. No. 9.] 13 «r as marked and distinct as their geographical position and vegetable productions, while the courses which both pursue are widely variant, forming an angle of thirty-six degrees in ninety-one miles. For local convenience of description this division should be made, if for no other reason. A division, or rather a new arrangement, is to be introduced in rela tion to the entire mountain chains that lie upon the west side of the con tinent, which will give more uniformity and a much better classification than that now existing. It is not proposed however to change local names in the arrangement, but to name those parts of the mountains, which, as yet, have received none, except " Sierras," as they are termed. Through Mr. Blake, of the U. S. E. E. Survey, I am informed that it is now proposed to term the entire chain of mountains, extending through to the northern part of Oregon, and running south into lower California, " Cordilleras or Western America," and all those portions south of the thirty-fifth parallel of north latitude, [which, as yet, have received no name,] are to be termed the " Peninsula range" in order to separate them from the coast mountains with which they are now often confounded, and again as often termed Sierra Nevada, by persons who have occasion to describe them, or any part of them. The terms "Sierra Nevada," and "Cascade Eange," will thus be re tained as local names, with their boundaries the same as before. The coast mountains will comprise the entire chain lying to the west of the above, and which are found to have an age more recent than the tertiary rocks, which rest upon them, and such local changes as may be necessary will be applied, but so far only as will be required in order to elucidate any peculiar characteristics they may possess. This arrangement is one much needed, and is founded on strictly sci entific principles, and this proposition of Mr. Blake will meet the uni versal concurrence of the country, as it will reduce the mountain chains of the western part of the continent, to a more perfect system than they have heretofore possessed. A more specific classification of these mountains has before been pro posed by different persons, among them that of Lieut. Wilkes, who pro posed the term of " California Eange of the Cascades;" for the Sierra Nevada being but a continuation of the former, all of them heretofore have been objectionable on the ground that old and established names would be changed by the arrangement ; notwithstanding those names con veyed erroneous impressions. No such objection can be urged against the present proposition of the gentleman above named, as it affords a convenience of arrangement not heretofore suggested or presented to the public for their consideration. With these remarks on this part of our subject, we will proceed to the examination of the chain termed the Monte Diabolo Eange. GEOLOGY OF THE MONTE DIABOLO EANGE. This chain of mountains forms the south shore of the Straits Carquinez and part of the bay of Suissun. The rocks bordering the bay and straits 14 [APPENDIX are mostly a sandstone, which belongs to a similar range occurring on the opposite shore. On the western flank of this portion of these moun tains, or on the east shores of the bay San Pablo, and north part of San Francisco, a range of sharp Peaks are seen ; their slopes are abrupt from the summit for a considerable way down toward their base, and in the latter part of winter and through the spring are covered with wild oats and grasses. For several miles these mountains are made up of trapean rocks, 'which have forced themselves through the sedimentary rocks, and are in all respects similar to the volcanic series that has protruded through the older and also more recent formations in the Sierra Nevada. These rocks are cut through and disturbed by a suite of igneous rocks of still more recent origin, causing material change in the structure of the rocks that preceded them, both sedimentary and plutonic. Among the latter we find the pitchstone and obsidian, showing conclusively that they belong to that class known as recent volcanic rocks. These rocks may be con veniently observed in some of the lower hills about two miles east of the house of Victor Castro, in the County of Alameda. The more recent volcanic rocks form the first summit of the high ridge east of the bay, and the frequently isolated conical peaks to which they give rise, and which are known among the native inhabitants as (Picaches) stretch to the north for six miles, when they are replaced by the older trap rocks, and followed by the softer sandstones, which form the smooth rounded summits of the hills to the Bay San Pablo and Straits of Car- quinez. The sandstones on the shores present many marks of disturbance and change, by the intrusion of the late igneous rocks, and it is not unfre- quent to find fine threads of quartz ramifying through them in every direction; when this is the case, or when they are in contact with the more recent of the igneous group, their former structure is usu ally found materially changed, a conchoidal fracture in these rocks is often the result of this contact either in large or small masses. There are considerable areas of the sandstone in these mountains, that present little or no traces of change, subsequent to their deposition, ex cept that of uplift • thus proving that they must have been deposited on the trap rocks after the latter had become firm, and parted with their heat : but where the sedimentary rocks are found in close proximity with the later igneous rocks the change indeed in them is clear and de cisive : thus demonstrating the fact that volcanic action has occurred at a date long subsequent to the period in which these rocks were deposited, and probably after their emergence above the surface of the sea, in which they had their origin. It was found, in examining the sandstones lying upon the older trapean rocks of this part of the range, that the fine threads of quartz before noticed, gradually increased in dimensions as they approximated the inferior strata of the sedimentary rocks, and where the igneous rocks were exposed to view beneath them, in favor able situations, they often exhibited true well and defined, though small veins of quartz passing through them. These general characteristics continue south untill a point nearly east of the town of Oakland is obtained, and here the trapean group of rocks are interrupted to a certain extent. East of this town we find the Doc. No. 9.] 15 m primitive rocks occurring, and an outcrop of serpentine makes its ap pearance, together with some of its subordinate members, among which the Shales and some of the cherty rocks appear. These are flanked to the east with rocks of the trapean group, forming the high ridge in that direction, and are surmounted with the fbssiliferous sandstones. The ser pentine rocks of this district contain considerable quantities of chromic iron, but its extent is not accurately known. South of Oakland to San Antonio, the country is of the same character as that immediately pre ceding it. The mountains were not examined, but the creek was fol lowed four or five miles, and its bed showed nothing to indicate a change in the structure of the country from which it has its rise, with the exception, perhaps, that the sandstone pebbles exhibited no marks of fossils. These features were general for the entire distance to the San Leandro, being about eight miles : but after crossing this stream, the fossiliferous rocks become more fully developed and continue to gradually increase to the arroyo of the Alameda. The sedimentary rocks of this district rest on the older trap formations, with frequent small threads of quartz passing through them, but no material change of structure was observed in these at the points of contact. The sandstone of these hills is much coarser in its texture than that forming the shores of the Bay San Pablo and Straits Carquinez, and its fossils exceedingly fragile and imperfect. Crossing the Alameda and entering the hills in which the Mission of San Jose is situated, a distance of four miles, no change in the general character of the rocks is noticeable, with the exception that the sedimen tary rocks have suffered more from disintegration than at any point north of the arryo Alameda, and the contour of the country being such as to retain a large part of the detritus of these rocks, the result has been the production of a soil, throughout the hilly and rolling districts, of almost unequalled richness and fertility. Following the west side of the Central Range we pass into the county Santa Clara, a short distance south of the Mission San Jose. The sedimentary rocks containing fossils continue to cap the summit of the ridge for the distance of twenty -five miles south of this point, all of which appear to be of the same age as those above described. South of the Hot Springs (a point defining the boundary between the counties Alameda and Santa Clara) the trachytes, crop out in two or three locali ties, leaving but little room for doubt that the more recent of the volcanic rocks underlie this entire section. At the distance of sixteen miles south of the Spring, the chlorite slate flanks the west base of the ridge, and at short intervals along this distance fragments of these rocks are frequently met ; on the Rancho del Palo this rock again occurs at a distance of three miles east of San Jose, here it crops out on the hills three hundred feet above the valley, and appears to have been much disturbed and broken up ; immediately west of this an alluminous slate appears dipping south west and corresponding to the inclination of the chlorites. In the hills of this district there is considerable quantities of quartz, some of which has proved auriferous. Traveling parallel with the ridge and south of the Pueblo San Jose, the fossiliferous rocks become less developed, and at the distance of 16 [APPENDIX i thirteen miles very few sandstones containing fossils were to be seen. In the arroya Caoti the first specimens of scoriaceous lava were met with, this induced a more critical examination of the mountains to the east of the valley than would otherwise have been made. The hills were entered a short distance south of Laguna Seca, and followed thence southerly for eighteen miles. Small patches of fossiliferous rocks are sparingly distributed over the route, the predominating rocks being igneous and composed principally of trachytes and lavas ; from Laguna Seca an almost continuous dike of the latter extends along the western base of the ridge for a distance of near twenty miles. As you approach the Eancho Cantine it becomes more cellular than farther north at any point where it was observed. In the vicinity of Grilroy's it has been used for milling purposes, to which it seems admirably adapted, being unequalled in hardness to the best French Buhr. I saw at Gilroy's three sets of these stones which have been in use at that place for several years in flouring wheat. These stones are capable of being split out to the diameter of four feet and the requisite thickness that may be required for the uses of the mill. The principal rocks forming the east ridge of the Monte Diablo range, and continuing southeasterly from Gilroy's, are composed of the more recent volcanic series, and are but a part of those above alluded to. At the distance of eight miles from this town, the ridge attains an elevation near three thousand feet, and shoots up into a series of jagged, conical peaks, which maintain this character for sixteen miles south of San Felipe; the pass known as "Pacheco Pass," leading from the Valley Santa Clara to the San Joaquin, is situated among these latter hills and near their northern terminus. Nine miles northeast from San Filipe is the well known landmark known as " Pacheco's Peak ;" it is visible for a long distance from the east, west and south, but not from the north owing to the hills between having a considerable altitude and their close proximity on the principle line of travel ; it is formed of trachyte and scoriaceous lavas, and is evi dently the remains of an extinct volcano. The Santa Anna mountains stretch in a south-east direction from San Felipe a distance of twelve miles, and from this point sink gradually into an uneven ridge having an altitude varying from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet, but far more rugged than its equivalent north of the Alameda Creek. The section inclusive from the vicinty of Pacheco's to the extreme southeast part of the Santa Anna mountains, has been one of the grand centres of the more recent volcanic disturbances which has imparted to the mountains their present contour ; the greatest amount of local disturbance is confined within a line of distance comprising about eight miles north and south, exerting a considerable elevatory force on the sedimentary rocks of recent date to the west and south-west. The disturbance among the latter rocks is manifested in a striking manner on the south-east portion of the "Loma Muertas," (a range, of hills extending from the south-east part of the Santa Clara Yalley across its upper end, dividing this from the Yalley San Juan) which extends also to the fossiliferous rocks near the Mission San Juan, they all have a dip to the west, which is continuous for miles, The Eancho Tres Pinos, eight miles south-west of Santa Anna, may Doc. No. 9.] 17 be said to be the southern terminus of the Yalley Santa Clara, though south of the "Loma Muertas " it is called San Juan; at this point it nar rows to a canon and continues thus forty miles to the south-east ; after passing the Tres Finos it becomes rough and irregular, though attaining ho great altitude for most of this distance, and from the appearance of the Canada beyond, obtained from an elevation of eight hundred feet, it is probably connected with the Tulare plain some forty miles south, and from its appearance the elevation must be very moderate, as no hills were visible along the axis of the canon to obstruct the view to a horizon beyond. The stream that courses this Canada is termed San Benito as far south as the Arroya los Muertas, and eight miles south of the Rancho Tres Pinos, after which it takes the name of San Juan ; it discharges its waters into the Pajaro fourteen miles north of the Eancho Santa Anna; the latter river forming the boundary of the counties Santa Clara, Santa Cruz and Monterey. The pass Santa Anna is situated in the Monte Diablo Range and enters these mountains from the west, two leagues south of the Tres Pinos, and from the Canada San Benito ; it was extremely rocky so far as examined though attaining no great altitude, the mean of its course was fifteen degrees north of east. This canon appears to have formeol the banks of an ancient stream, and it is not improbable that the San Joaquin might have flowed through this section, and discharged its waters into the bay of Monterey ; I did not pass through the entire length of the canon and am therefore unable to form an opinion on this point that would be sat isfactory in this particular. The features observed on which this suppo sition is founded, are that a series of outliers, or rather narrow terraces are traceable for nine or ten miles up the Canada, such as occur on streams whose beds have been drained from successive elevations from subter ranean forces. These peculiar features are not uncommon in the more elevated portions of the Sierra Nevada or Coast Mountains, and in the middle and northern parts of the former they may be traced for long- distances. The Monte Diablo Range is connected with the line of mountains which separate the Tulare and Salinas Valleys ; and constitute in fact but one range, having their terminus within the thirty-fourth parallel, when they are intercepted by the San Bernardino mountains, which it appears from the U. S. R. R. Survey, pursue a course nearly at right angles to the trend of the former ; while the low mountains forming the east border of the Salinas from the Mission San Miguel on the south to the Pajaro River on the north, can be considered nothing but a spur of the Monte Diablo Range. The principle partis of this spur of granitic and other primitive rocks, on which the tertiaries rest; the granite is first developed in and about the Cinega del Grabilan, this mountain being made up for the most part of these rocks ; at the next highest peak twelve miles south of the above known as, the Chupedero, the granite .passes into a coarse sienite much disintegrated and loose on the surface ; the sienite continues to the Canada Solza a distance of six miles, beyond which it was not examined for twenty miles. It is doubtful if the granite rocks extend to any consider able distance beyond this localitv, as the general aspect of the country 3 18 [APPENDIX changes materially after passing this point, and the magnesian rocks begin to be gradually developed. The mountains were again entered fourteen miles above the Canada Solza, and followed for eleven miles, the magnesian rocks were met at short intervals throughout the entire distance. Chlorite and talcose slates with beds of impure serpentine occur, containing actinolite, and in the ravines fragments of chromic iron ; at one locality this mineral was found in considerable quantities. No chromic iron was found in place in any of these rocks, but the detached masses in the ravines indicate deposits to a considerable extent. The Panoches were visible from this point and distant about seven miles, bearing per compass south-east by east, and the entire range of hills inter vening leads to the belief that the same class of rocks as those above alluded to, compose the principal rock of this section. This opinion was subsequently corroborated by the results of an exploring party from the Mission San Juan, who were out in search of what had been supposed an argentiferous vein, up the Canada of that San Juan, the ore brought in by this company proved to be an excellent quality of the chromic mineral, containing considerable quantities of the emerald nickel, which is far more valuable than the mineral with which it is associated. A line from tie Canada Solza carried east to the Arroya San Juan ter minates at a point four miles north of a sandstone formation lying upon the east declivity of these mountains which contains marine fossils ; those that were sufficiently firm for examination were found to be of present existing species of the Pacific Coast, consisting of Mytilus and Cytherea ; in one part of these tertairy sandstones some fragments of Purpura were found, which are identical with those on the Arroya Pescadero, county of Santa Clara, and the litteral sea beaches on the Straits Carquinez. This was the only deposit of sedimentary rocks found on this spur of the Monte Diablo Eange, and points to a period remote, when the waters of the ocean washed those shores, and furnishes corroborative testimony of the reces sion of the sea from those places by uplift from volcanic agencies below the surface. On the west flank of the Gfabilan (which is the most prominent peak on this spur) a bed of primitive limestone occurs, extending from the Canada Yergeles on* the north nearly to the Sierra Chapadero on the south, a dis tance of twelve miles ; it was observed on the lower hills of this part of these mountains only, and at no elevation exceeding five hundred feet above the level of the Salinas Plains. At one locality these rocks have been cut through by two dikes of trap, and also a heavy dike of quartz is found on its eastern edge, which runs parallel with the course of the calcareous rocks ; the quartz has cut both the granite and limestone, and thrown both to the west, it is heavily charged with iron, and contains in addition the blue and green carbonate of copper with a little gold. The limestone passes under the Salinas Valley and has a considerable inclination in contact with the intrusive veins above noted ; it contains silver and lead (Argentiferous Galena) in small veins in several places. As the calcareous formation does not show itself on the opposite side of the valley, opposite this locality, the pre sumption is that it underlies the plain at a considerable depth, and should Doc. No. 9.] 19 B it carry those veins throughout which is found upon its surface it is not improbable that valuable deposits of ores may be found within it SALINAS VALLEY. • This extensive plain will follow as next in order, in the description of its general features, previous to the consideration of the Coast Mountains. The valley is about ninety miles in length, and has a varying breadth from eight to fourteen miles ; it is> situated between the Coast Mountains and those denominated the Monte Diablo Eange, and is bounded on the east by that spur of this range in which the Grabilan is situated. The Salinas River flows through this plain from the Cadesal Pass in which it has its rise, to the bay of Monterey. The stream for fifty miles of its course follows the western margin of the valley, and crosses the plain for the first time eight miles south-east of the Mission Solidad, after which it becomes more irregular. Three observations were taken at different points, by which it was estimated that the river had a fall of eighteen inches in one and three-fourths of a mile for seventy miles of its course. The bed of the stream is composed of a loose micaceous sand, derived from the granite rocks to the east, and also from the tertiary rocks on its western border, the latter, however, do not enter largely into its composition. The plain of the Salinas consists of three terraces running through nearly its entire length, thus making three different positions which the river ha*s occupied since the formation of the valley, and its recession from the eastern to its western border wrhere it at present holds its course. These terraces are very regular in their general outline, and impart to the mind an idea that the plain has a uniform grade for its entire breadth, when the point viewed is one or two miles distant. Commencing on the western side of the valley, the lower terrace is found to occupy a breadth of about four miles, and is composed of a rich alluvium ; at this point the second terrace rises abruptly to the height of eleven feet, its average width being nearly that of the former ; this is also composed of a similar soil as the first, though not in so fine a state of disintegration, or con taining so large an amount of vegetable mould. Both terraces support a dense growth of indigenous grasses and plants, thus furnishing an abundant supply of pasturage for stock of all kinds. The third and upper terrace rises nearly as abrupt as the second, and has a varying breadth from one to six miles, it is more irregular upon its surface than the two former, and attains a higher grading as it ap proaches the hills to the east ; the irregularities of the surface are not sufficient to produce any sensible effect in destroying that uniformity which a view of four miles will give on any part of the plain, and would not be noticeable except in passing over it. South of the Alisal Ranch, and situated on this upper terrace, are a series of little elevations that continue at intervals of half a mile or a mile through a distance of twenty-seven miles, on the eastern side of the valley. They are symmetrical in form and rise on every side to heights varying from six to ten feet above the level on which they stand ; their surfac^ is smooth and even, covering an area from fifty to one 20 [APPENDIX hundred yards square. They appear to be composed of the valley and neither rocks or small stones were to be found on any part of them. The first impression received by the traveler on coming up to them, is that they were the work of art, perhaps thrown up by the aborigines to secure themselves from -inundation ; but when we consider their extent and number, it will be found rather inconsistent with the habits of these people to erect works of this extent ; there are no traditions among the Indian's of this part of the country respecting the origin of these singu larly formed hills. The causes of their production must remain a secret which future time alone, and the art of man, will eventually unravel. Their irregu lar dispersion and general uniformity of character indicates an origin from natural causes than otherwise, though it must be confessed that the agents that are active in producing them are not very apparent. The upper terrace or " Mesa " of the Salinas, exhibits more distinctly the sources from which the superficial covering of the plain has been derived ; the soil is harsh and gravelly, and retains moisture but a short time after the rains cease ; it much resembles the soils derived from the granitic rocks of some parts of the mining counties ; but notwithstand ing the sterile features of this "Mesa," it produces the wild oat in suffi cient abundance to furnish extensive grazing land, and in the "Encinals" the natural crop is heavy. The slopes of the hills on the eastern side produce the same grain, but here it is frequently replaced by the indigenious grasses ; these latter do not become so general until after passing above the limestone range, and these rocks seem to favor in an eminent degree the growth of the cereal to that of the grasses in this section and south beyond the Chupe- dero ; beyond this the grasses form the principle covering of the hills on the east side of the plain to the southern extremity of the range. The Salinas has an inclination of eight degrees' in twelve miles trans versely to its course. The line was projected from the Chupedero and carried through the Carmel Mountains to the sea, and connected with another line which was carried through the Monte Diablo Eange and Canada San Juan at a distance of two miles south of Los Muertas, there by obtaining a sectional profile from the western edge of the San Joaquin to the ocean. The section thus formed will give the following series, and the order in which they occur. First, alluvium of the San Joaquin, tertiary sandstone containing no fossils, and resting on trachytes; 1200 feet on east ridge, the trap rocks are found, same altitude on west ridge, porous and compact lavas, on the west slope 400 feet above the level of the Arroya San Juan, mountain limestone. Yalley .half a mile in breadth flanked by calcareous rocks, resting on granite, 1600 feet through to the Chupedero granitic and trapean rocks, 400 feet above Salinas "Valley crystatine limestone, valley twelve miles in breadth, ascend one high plateau of sixty -four feet of gravelly alluvium, thence over a high ridge trapean rocks, which are followed by coarse granitic rocks to the sea. The highest ridge is the granitic mountains toward the ocean, and the highest point crossed 2900 feet. Doc. No. 9.] 21 FKOM POINT PIISTOS TO THE NACISMIENTO EIVEK. The Coast Mountains extending from Point Pinos, Monterey, to the northern line of Luis Obispo are mostly primitive ; the character of the rocks which form the principle basis of these mountains are best observ ed about Point Pinos and the town of Monterey ; they -are composed of a coarse-grained but apparently firm granite, having a bluish grey color where the solid masses have been recently fractured. In some places this granite contains imbedded translucent crystals of felspar, (Adularia) in others it is close grained, and contains but little mica, its disintegra tion forming a fine white sand but little discolored by iron, and from its brilliancy below the surface of the ocean, produces a most pleasing effect on its waters at considerable distance from the shore. The light-house at Point Pinos is constructed of this rock, and from the appearance of the stone when properly dressed, it is highly probable that if the ledges were properly opened, a good material for building purposes may be ob tained and in sufficient quantities to supply all the local demands of this country. The granite shows itself as an underlying rock for four miles into the interior, from the coast, where it becomes covered with the debris of the sedementary rocks resting upon it and alluvium, but there is but little difficulty in tracing its course for forty-five miles easterly of Monterey ; it becomes more largely developed after crossing the Carmello and enter ing the mountains on its southern side. The trend of the Coast Mountains south of Monterey for fifty miles is south 50 degrees east, while the strike of the granite rocks is at an angle of nearly 18 degrees to the line of trend, or in other words cutting the course of the ridge at an angle of eighteen degrees. The granite rocks at Point Pinos are of the same series as those occurring in the vicinity of the Eancho Piojo, and south of the Estella, thirty miles distant from the latter in a southerly direction ; the texture of these rocks in these southern localities is more compact than in the vicinity of Monterey, and in some cases are hornblendic in their character. On the east the granite is flanked by an extensive group of the Serpentine formations, which continue south as far as the Mission San Antonio ; they constitute the principle part of a ridge running parallel with the granite, and situated between the latter and the Salinas Valley. The country over which the magnesian rocks predominate is easily distinguished from that in which granitic or trapean group is found, by the vegetation incident to both — the serpentine hills being generally destitute of the larger forest trees, and covered with a thick " Chamisal" and stunted varieties of the oak ; this peculiarity of these hills is very striking, and cannot fail to arrest the attention of the traveler, either among the Coast Mountains or Sierra Nevada, in passing over them. The talcose and chlorits slates of these mountains were found to be auriferous in several localities, and mining to a considerable extent was conducted in some parts of these mountains during the past summer. The magnesian rocks cross the Nacismiento Eiver fourteen miles above its junction with the Salinas ; on the banks of this stream they appear in the form of massive Serpentine, but assume a schistose structure three 22 [APPENDIX miles beyond to the south, and at the distance of six miles the chlorite slates abound. These mountains were not followed beyond this point to the south, but it became evident that the trapean rocks prevailed at the distance of ten or twelve miles farther on, the sharp outline of the higher hills corresponding with those of a similar character observed in other localities. To the south-east and south-west the mountains were less rugged in their appearance, a considerable extent of a white micaceous granite was found, OR which detached masses of sandstone were met with, containing marine shells, also a conglomerate apparently of the same age. The fos- siliferous rocks were much disintegrated, anci their fossils very imperfect; the species observed were Pectinea and Terredina, and evidently were of the same age as those in the immediate vicinity of Monte Diablo ; all the other shells were so imperfect that nothing reliable was to be obtained from their examination, being merely fragmentary in their character. To return again to the northern part of this range of mountains, and in the vicinity of Monterey, we shall find that the fossiliferous sandstones of this district do not compare in any degree with those above noticed, but, to the contrary, all of the marine fossils of the northern part of the range are found to differ in their character and relative age. On the Carmello this interesting fact may be conveniently observed ; the fossils are found in an argilaceous sandstone, about nine feet in thickness, and rests alike on both serpentine and granitic, and has a dip of seven de grees west. It is found at intervals through eleven miles of distance on a course east southeast, and for a breadth of about four miles ; this for mation, which must be regarded as the Post Pliocene of this country con tains imbeded fossils of the genus cancer, with' casts of Cytherea, mactra and tellina, all of living species in the adjoining Bay and Bay of Mon terey. From the delicacy of the preservation of these small animals, and the character of the rock in which they are imbeded, it appears evident that it must have been deposited in still water, and was probably an estero into which the tide ebbed and flowed regularly, with sufficient protec tion to break the violence of the surf upon the coast. After its deposi tion it had been gradually elevated above the surface of the waters, and subsequently tilted from its horizontal position by the intrusion of igne ous rocks in its vicinity. The cause of its disturbance and inclination is found in the intrusion of a trapean dike which has cut through the granite and clay state, which latter passes into a micaceous schist, and near the contact of the igneous intrusion small but imperfect garnets are found imbeded. The fossilife rous rocks are regularly stratified, and cleave easily in one direction ; they are much twisted and contorted nearest the points at which the tra pean mass broke through, but become much less curved as the distance increases from that centre. A clay of fine texture and creamy color is found resting on the argilaceous sandstone, and covers a large extent of country stretching to the east of Monterey as far as the Toro Hills ; this clay is composed almost exclusively of infusoria, apparently of marine origin ; five distinct species have been observed, four of which are dis coid. It is probable that they have been described either by Professor Bayley, of W est Point, or Ehrenberg, as both these gentlemen have had Doc. No. 9.] 23 opportunities for the examination of the infusorial formations of this State — and until access may be had to their descriptions, it will be im- gossible to determine this fact. Specimens have been secured for the tate collection, and will be described at the earliest opportunity. My route next followed a northeast direction across the Toro Hills and Canada ; the first range of high hills on the north side of the Car- mello, and which divide the Toro from the Carmel valley, have an alti tude of about seven hundred feet ; they are composed of a coarse sand stone, containing a few indistinct impressions of shells of marine species ; an out-crop of trap was observed among the latter rocks, flanked by granite of the same specific character as that found at Point Pinos, and may be seen four miles southwest of the Toro Eanch. On the south side of the valley an extensive bed of calcareous travertine occurs, and also a brecia of the same character, they cover about one mile of area; no limestone rocks were found in situ in. this vicinity ; the travertine here observed, evidently had its origin from springs highly charged with calcareous matter, and which were undoubtedly formed in the limestone described on the east side of the Salinas valley, and which dip under the same as described in the preceding pages. From the intrusion of the more recent volcanic rocks in the immediate vicinity of those springs, it is probable they were diverted into another channel, and thus ceased to flow in places in which the calcareous tula is now found. Similar springs now exist a short distance from Santa Cruz, around which the calcareous deposits are very extensive. Crossing the Toro Yalley or Canada, and following the course of the bay of Monterey, there is little else to be seen than the tertiary rocks for fifty miles, and extending easterly in elevated plateaus and hills for eighteen miles from the coast ; among the Chamisal hills frequent intru sions of trapean rocks are met, and in nearly every case where this occurs the granite is also seen broken through by the same igneous intrusions. The sandstone is generally of a buff colour, and yellow-brown, having a greater or less abundance of fossils, in some instances, firm and compact, and again loose and friable ; it is almost continuous in a northwest direc tion, being broken through only by small streams, and is found north of the mission of Santa Cruz, from whence it gradually narrows out, being found immediately on the coast at the base of the mountains. Beyond this point the principal rocks on the coast are primitive and volcanic, forming sharp, high hills and low mountains with a bold coast line. SANTA CKUZ MOUNTAINS. These mountains approach the coast a short distance northwest of the Mission and town of Santa Cruz. They extend from the head of the Santa Clara Yalley and Pajaro river to Mount Bruno and Presidio Point west of the city of San Francisco; they are separated from the moan- tain forming the coast line to the northern terminus of the State, by the Golden Gate or entrance to the bay of San Francisco. The greatest altitude attained in these mountains, is the Black Hill, (Loma Prieto or 24 [APPENDIX Umhumin,) the latter being the original Indian name applied to this hill. The entire range is composed, principally of the primitive rocks, among which the serpentine formations play an important part ; this suite was traced from near the Rancho La Brae on both flanks of the mountains, to the Francisquito on the east side, and Anno Nuevo on the west, and belong to ths same series as those occuring at Point Lobos and the Pre sidio. In several instances throughout the range, the trapean rocks have broken through, as detailed of the mountains south of Monterey. On the west flank of these mountains, and in the central and northern parts of the .County of Santa Cruz, there are views of quartz cutting through the serpentine and other rocks in other places ; and is particu larly observable on the upper portions of the arroyas Sogell, Syant, and Bio San Augustine. The general rule heretofore laid down respecting the contact of these two groups of rocks in this country is found good in the present case. " That when the two series are found in contact, either as dikes of great length, or smaller views, one, or both is always auriferous." And such has proved to be the fact in the case before us ; from all appearances the quartz has been one of the most recent disturb ing agents here, as well as elsewhere. The mineral characteristics of these mountains will be noticed more in detail when speaking of that subject hereafter. The south-east spur of these mountains terminates at the Pajaro River, thirty-six miles east of Santa Cruz, and fourteen from Watson ville. On the southern extremity are found - extensive beds of fossils finely pre served. The arroyo Peseadero and la Brae cut their way through these hills, and their beds abound with boulders containing these organic re mains. The fossil sandstone at this point rests on the Serpentine and trapean intrusions, being changed in its texture near the" points of contact with the latter rocks. . On these streams are to be found several bitumi nous springs, which discharge large quantities of the fluid bitumen, at times covering several acres of ground. The occurrence of these springs has led to the belief that bituminous coal existed in this section, such, I think, is not the fact in the present case, though it might be a tenable sup position in parts of the world where coal measures exist, or where any of the superior groups of the secondary rocks may be found. The position of these springs, geologically considered, would render it impossible for coal to abound, as -they make their appearance among a mass of rocks having an igneous origin, where not even a lignite is likely tp exist. There is but a possibility that the tertiary rocks in the vicinity may overlie some members of the secondary group, from which these springs have their origin, but no outcrop or other indications are to be found which will warrant such a conclusion. There is every evidence that the tertiaries above rest on the primitive and volcanic rocks with no intermediate series between them. The origin of bituminous springs is but little understood ; in the present state of our knowledge they are found to arise from the newer as well as the older formations, and alone are not reliable evidences of the existence of coal, except when found among. the carbouiferou-s rocks. Following the east flank of the Santa Cruz mountains, we find small patches of the tertiary sandstones among the lower portions' of the hills, Doc. No. 9.J 25 0 from La Brae to the Llagos Creek ; after which they are not again seen for several miles. Near the last named creek, the more recent volcanic rocks make their appearance and continue, at short intervals, for sixteen miles, when we again pass into the primitive formations, which become more metaliferous and particularly in the region about New Almaden in the county of Santa Clara, North of Almaden, and near the Los Gatos Creek, a bed of recent con glomerate, loose and friable in texture, is found occupying an elevation of four hundred feet above the level of the valley, and having a thickness of about seventy feet, it occurs on both sides of the Los Gatos, and is found, at short intervals, for ten miles, crossing Camels Creek and following its banks for two or three miles ; it has been considerably disturbed and large masses have been thrown down. West of McCartyville the mountain limestone occurs in large masses and is continuous for several miles to the west, north and north-west. Extensive operations are now conducted in the manufacture of lime for the market, for which purpose it is admirably adapted. This group of calcareous rocks cannot be less than thirty miles in length from east to west, and has a strike transverse to the line of the mountain range, appearing on the coast at Santa Cruz, at this point it is highly crystaline. These rocks extend north of Camel's Creek about four miles ; and a calcareous rock of an amorphous character is found as far north as Sanchez Eanch, in the County of San Francisco. The west flank of the mountains, lying between the San Mateo and a point nearly west of Mission Dolores, was not examined personally, but from the spe cimens of rocks from that section, which I have seen, their geological cha racters appear identical with the rocks at the Presidio, which are mostly serpentine. On Presidio point are to be found beds of a Jaspery rock having a riband-like appearance, and colors from a greenish hue through red- brown to red and yellow ; this rock has been considered by Mr. Dana as a variety of the Prasoid rocks, and as he says — "the graduation of prase into jaspery rocks exhibits a close relation of both." These transitions were met with in other parts of the country over which he had travelled. In relation to this subject he further says — "From the transitions that occur, it also appears that the jasper and prase rocks are closely connected with the talcose series, and that the translucent jasper and bloodstones of this section are only different varieties of its condition." The jaspery rocks of San Francisco are worthy of description ; the green, red and yellow varieties occur in the same vicinity, they form a series of layers averaging two inches in thickness, and varying from half an inch to four inches ; the layers are distinct and separted by open seams, and on the front of bluffs or ledges the rock has a riband-like appearance, the layers coalesce and sub-divide without regularity though uniformly parallel, they are often twisted, and thus change at short intervals from a vertical position to a dip of twenty degrees." The colors red and yellow are often mingled and sometimes appear as parallel bands ; in some instances, the surface is red while the rock is yellow beneath, this may have resulted from the burning of a tree on the spot, for by heat the yellow varieties readily change to red ; a small spe cimen had an agate-like structure as though formed from an aqueous solution. 4 26 [APPENDIX An impure talcose rock occurs at Point Lobos, which extends east for one and a half miles. The works of the "Mountain Lake Water Com pany" have been carried through a portion of these rocks, and the masses of serpentine that have been elevated to the surface from the depth of one hundred and sixty feet have exhibited an interesting feature in the history of these rocks. It was found, on examination, that the strong odor given off from these stones was composed of free Bromine and Iodine ; it is very persistent, and specimens which have been exposed to the air for nearly three months have not lost their odor. From the Presidio on the bluffs near the bay, slates and sandstones are found in a much disturbed condition from intrusions of trap ; the strata are much contorted and twisted, and tilted in every direction, the inclination varying fron five degrees to vertically in very short distances. These rocks, as yet, have presented no fossils in the immediate vicinity of the city, but pass into tertiary sandstone, containing organinc remains one mile west of Montgomery Street, San Francisco, where they may be found forming the west point of the North Beach. South of the city and near Rincon Point, the trachytes appear with small veins of quartz running through them and the adjoining slates ; the latter having suffered considerable change in structure near the point -of contact with the igneous rocks. Traces of carbonate of copper are observable in this vicinity. Crossing the Bay of San Francisco from Presidio Point, the rocks on the Saucelito side correspond with the primitive formations above de scribed. The serpentine series continue for several miles up the bay, varying in its mineral characters at short distances. At San Quentin the rocks are schistose, and half a mile beyond, again passes into a mas sive form, and contains actinolite in fan-like groups of crystals ; a mile beyond this, the rock becomes hornblendic, and thence gradually pas ses into a trap formation, containing well defined crystals of the latter mineral. On reaching the northern shores of the Bay San Pablo the hills to the north appeared rugged and conical, indicating a preponderance of the volcanic rocks. The route traveled next, lay through the Counties of Solano and Napa. It has been before remarked that the sand-stone on one side of the Straits Carquinez was identical with that on the other, and the line of dip in both will be found to correspond. These rocks are permeated by minute threads of quartz, and contain considerable quantities of mag netic sand ; in some cases the quartz viens acquire a thickness of one or two inches, and have in several instances been found to contain gold, while the sand-stone itself possessed this character in a limited degree ; it is contained mechanically in these latter rocks, and in general will be found as a local deposit only. Small quantities of this metal have been found in the stone used for building in San Francisco, which were taken from the quarries in the vicinity of Benecia. It is doubtful whether these rocks would ever warrant mining explorations, except in those locations where the quartz has intruded to a considerable extent. In this case they would prove of sufficient value probably, for mining in the rocks below the sand-stope, and would be governed by the same Doc. No. 9.] 27 natural laws that are found to prevail in other parts of the country in relation to auriferous veins. These sand-stones are found to extend into the interior in a northwest direction, a distance of about eight [miles, when they are succeeded by volcanic rocks of recent date for thirty miles in the same direction ; the points of contact in the igneous and sedimentary rocks exhibit distinct and striking marks of change in structure among the latter in many places, and it is not uncommon to find trachytic injections into the sand-stone along the line of coast on the bay and straits. Where these veins are large, the sandstone in contact is often nearly as hard as the trepan rockf' itself, a true conchodial fracture, having q_uite sharp or roughened edges, with a semi-earthy surface, is the result of this metamorphosis. Above this sandstone and resting directly upon it, is a littoral sea-beach, having an elevation of about thirty feet above high tides, and extending for several miles along the coast of the bay. It is composed of fragmentary and entire shells, mixed with a little sand and clay ; its thickness varies from one to three feet. Its position is im mediately below the alluvium. It forms a distant white line along the bay coast of San Pablo on its north side for eight miles, and may be seen at the town of Benicia in the vicinity of the sandstone quarries at that place. The shells of which this beach is composed consist of a small species of ostrea, purpura, and other small shells now inhabiting these waters. The elevation of this beach points to a period comparatively recent, when subterranean forces were in operation in elevating the lands adjoining the coasts and bays, which part of our subject will be considered more in detail when re viewing the geological changes which have occurred in the different por tions of the coast-line followed. Among the sandstones of this region is a bed of limestone having an average thickness of two feet ; it is found one mile north of the town. This limestone was traced in a northeast direction for two miles, and is probably the same range as observed by Mr. Tyson on the east side of the hills on Suisun Bay. The foot of the ridge lying between Suisun and Napa Valleys, was followed for twenty miles. At this distance from the bays it attains an altitude of about twelve hundred feet. The rocks composing this ridge are mostly volcanic, with sandstone on their eastern flanks dipping east towards the Sacramento Valley ; a few very imperfect casts of marine shells were observed, but none sufficiently perfect for preservation. The ridge on the west border of Napa Valley presents much the same characteristics as those on the east. These two ridges unite about eight een miles north of Napa City, at which place they become extremely rugged and elevated. The highest and most conspicuous peak in this range is Mount Helen ; its sharply defined outline and truncated summit shows most conclusive ly its volcanic origin. A section cutting Napa Valley nine miles south of the town was made, and carried across the Sacramento Valley to the foot-hills on its eastern side, by which the grade of both valleys and the altitude of the hills were obtained. Before reviewing the geological changes that have occurred in the Sierra Nevada, Monte Diablo and Coast Mountains, a view of that part 28 APPENDIX of the great basin separating the Coast Mountains from the Sierras will be given ; and in speaking of the Sacramento Valley, that of the San Joaquin will also be included, and the physical characters of both brief ly explained. STKUCTUKE OF THE VALLEYS OF SACKAMENTO AND SAN JOAQUIN. These valleys forma "single geographical formation,"* stretching from the terminal spurs of the Cascade Mountains at the north, to the junction of the Sierra Nevada with the southern terminus of the Monte Diablo range with the thirty -fourth parallel of north latitude. The length of the valley is about three hundred arid eighty miles in length on an air line, with a breadth of fifty miles at its widest point. The general appearance of the valley is that of an extended plain composed of alluvium, and this opinion would obtain in the mind of any person whose line of travel should lead him over the lower terra ces of the plain, or what is denominated its bottom lands. It is only by making a transverse section of this plain that we should be able to arrive at any correct conclusions of its structure, and peculiarities of its formation ; by pursuing this course, very distinctive and marked fea tures are observable of different periods of elevation to which this por tion of the country has been subjected subsequent to its emergence above the level of the sea. To arrive at a correct understanding of the formation of the " Cali fornia Basin, "f we must first observe the rocks which form its borders, their character, position and relative age ; and in doing this it will be necessary to pass beyond either of its margins to ascertain the facts on which an opinion may be founded. On the east side of the basin and at the distance of fourteen miles from its border, we find the first out-crop of the primitive rocks, (granite) on hills attaining an elevation of about one thousand feet above the sea. Resting upon this, we find detached masses of sand-stone, which increase to a well defined formation a few miles to the west ; immediately below the latter a bed of slate makes its appearance, having a dip varying from thirty degrees to nearly a vertical position, but as the lower hills are ap proached, the inclination of these rocks become much less. Below the slate, a conglomerate having an argelaceous cement is found, firm in its texture, with a dip corresponding to the other rocks with which it is associated ; the pebbles composing the conglomerate are quartz, jasper, granite and trap ; at times this rock is highly ferruginous. The compo nents of the rock are made up from rocks* found in the mountains to the east, and must have been formed subsequent to the appearance of the older trapean formations of this part of the country. Succeeding the conglomerate,^ which by way of distinction, we will denominate Eocene, another bed of fissile cla}^ slate and aluminous clay * Col. J. C. Fremont. f Being similar to the London and Paris Basins, this name will be adopted. \ This suite of rocks are often confounded with another group, of the same character which appear of more recent date, and are found south of Consumnes river only. Doc. No. 9.] 29 occurs, having a thickness of about one hundred feet ; these rocks com port in position with the other sedimentary rocks above them, and are found resting directly on the granite, and other igneous rocks far into the interior ; in the lower hills their structure is fissile, cleaving with ease over considerable surfaces, while in the eastern parts of the moun tains they have often acquired a crystaliiie structure from contact with other and more recent volcanic rocks, and such as have broken through and disturbed the primitive formation. On the western side of the valley or basin, the series do not follow in precisely the same order as occurs on the east ; the sandstone and slate of the same age is found, but the conglomerate is wanting ; if it exists, it is completely obscured from view, except on the west slope of the coast mountains towards the sea, and its occurrence there is a reason for the supposition that it does exist below the other stratified rocks on their eastern slope. Above all the others, the miocene rocks are found dis turbed and cut through by the recent volcanic intrusions of that period. The following then will be the arrangement of the rocks from below upward : EAST OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER, Primary Rocks. Sedimentary. I Granite. Slates. Conglomerate. Slates. Sandstone. WEST OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER, Primary Rocks. Granite. Slates. Uncertain. Conglomerate. Sedimentary. Sandstone, Eocene. Sandstone Miocene. Recent volcanic cuting the latter. "With this arrangement of the stratified rocks which pass under the California Basin, it is obvious, that the waters flowing at the line of junction between the sandstone and the slate-rocks below them, muss pass under the sides and central parts of the valley, varying in depth at the distance from either of its borders increases. It must be remembered that the dip of the sedimentary rocks on which the alluvium of the valley reposes, will increase or diminish the distance that may be necessary to bore for obtaining water, as the incli nation of these rocks is greater or less ; and with the view to demonstrate if possible, (or at least approximately) the depth that it might be neces sary to sink in order to obtain a plentiful supply of water for agricul ture or other purposes, an examination of both borders of the basin was made of fifty miles in length, and the mean of all the dips taken. It was found by measurement that the surface of the basin rises at the average rate of six feet per mile from the river to either of its bor ders. Taking the grade of the surface with the lowest average dip of the rocks where they pass under it, (being equal to twelve degrees,) and assuming that the sedimentary rocks decrease in inclination, as the dis tance increases, which is probably the case, it will be found necessary to 30 [APPENDIX reach, the depth of 775 feet at the City of Sacramento, in order to obtain a permanent supply of water. This presumytion is based upon the fact that a constant source does not exist above the conglomerate, and this point is selected more for the purpose of exhibiting the greatest probable depth at which a permanent supply of water wiuld be found ; the probabilities of obtaining water at much less depths is strong, and amounts to almost a certainty, that water would be found immediately below the sandstone, and above the first slates ; in that case the depth would be diminished about two hundred and fifty feet. If a correct idea of the inclination of the sedimentary rocks is pre sented in the diagram, we shall have the following depths at different distances from the centre of the basin, on both sides. ON THE WEST SIDE OF TPIE RIVER, j ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE RIVER. 11 miles, 700 feet. 15 " 650 " 22 " ..550 " Sacramento City, 775 feet. 12 miles, 700 " 17 " 650 " 20 " ..625 " At the distance of twenty miles the rolling hills are entered in which springs usually abound. The rocks on both sides of the valley are arranged in the order in which they occur, as observed by the outcrop. Sandstone, EOCENE, Fosil Sandstone, Trap, Granite, Sandstones and upper Slates, Conglomerate, EOCENE. Lower clay Slates. Granite. These rocks included within the Eocene lines are classed by Mr. Dana, as the early sandstone, slates, and conglomerates, to distinguish them from the more recent tertiaries among the Coast Mountains. The geological structure of this basin was noticed by Mr. Tyson in 1849. He examined it with a view to ascertain whether a deposit of coal might not exist below the surface; and also whether its structure would indicate the means of supplying water for agricultural and me chanical purposes. In regard to the first question he says : " The first query is answered by the fact of finding the comparatively recent strata of a formation, not older tjaan the eocene and miocene periods, resting immediately on the met- amorphic or hypogene rocks of ancient origin, the remaining members with all the sedimentary rocks of older date being entirely wanting, and the the coal formation, which belongs to the lower of the second ary series." A coal formation under the basin is therefore out of the Doc. No. 9.] 31 •» question, unless deeply seated, and entirely covered, edges and all, by the sedimentary rocks above noticed^ The character of the soil in many parts of this valley will render it of little importance as an agricultural district, unless water in ample quantities for irrigation can be obtained. (These remarks apply partic ularly to the upper terrace of the valley on each side of the river.) And we hope that attention may be called to this very important subject of making the extensive areas of the arid districts of the basin available for market and agricultural purposes." Experience has demonstrated the almost certainty of obtaining water and in sufficient quantities for agricultural and other purposes, in all val leys resting upon sedimentary formations and having a basin-shaped structure, and where the different beds have a degree of uniformity or regularity in their position, and are of a texture that will admit the free percolation of water through the superior beds and sufficiently firm to prevent its escape in those below. These conditions are all fulfilled in the basin of the Sacramento, and from the united testimony of different observers, we have ample evi dence that the sedimentary formations of one side are the same as those upon the other, with the exception, perhaps, of the conglomerate. The absence of the conglomerate on the west side of the basin, will not affect the result of obtaining water by the means proposed. The clays and clay-slate, below the sandstone, appear on both sides and are sufficiently impervious and firm to prevent the escape of any water that may rest upon them.*" EEYIEW OF THE GEOLOGICAL CHANGES IN THE COAST MOUNTAINS AND MONTE DIABLO EANGE. Having briefly detailed the more general characteristics of the geology of the above mountains, it will become necessary to review in a mea sure the geological changes that have been instrumental in producing the peculiar features noticed in the preceeding pages ; in doing this the same lines will be followed as in the outset. Starting from the Straits of Carquinez, it has been stated that the rocks forming the borders of those Straits and part of the adjoining bays, were composed of a recent sandstone ; in following up these in a southerly direction for a few miles, we find the sedimentary rocks thin- ing out, and are succeeded by high hills and low mountains of volcanic rocks, composed of trochytes and other intrusive rocks of recent date. 'These are followed by the primitive rocks, composed of the older trap, in the vicinity of Oakland, consist in a great measure of serpen tine. The latter rocks form the western side of this part of the * Since October last, there have been three Artesian borings, carried to depths within one hundred feet, on the valley of Santa Clara, and in the vicinity of San Jose. The result of each has been successful, and a head of water from four to nine feet has been obtained. These indications of water so near the surface and in such quantities, will much enhance the value ot agricultural land throughout this valley and render available much that would otherwise have laid unocupied and unimproved for years. 32 [APPENDIX Diablo Range for thirty-five miles, where a district of the recent volcanic rocks is again entered, which continue to the head of the Canada San Benito and San Juan, for a distance of about eighty miles. Re turning 'on the Grabilan spur of these mountains, and which form the eastern boundary of the Salinas Plains, the primitive rocks are met with for twenty-eight miles, flank^il on the east by the recent igneous rocks of the same age as those appearing at the Santa Anna peaks, twelve miles to the east ; (during one of the convulsions that agitated this part of the country, about four hundred feet of the Galiban Peak, on its northeast side, was fractured and thrown down into a deep ravine at its base,) intrusive dikes have had the effect to change the sedi mentary rocks when found in contact with the same. In the Coast Mountains to the west, the granite and serpentine series are. predominant, and on these rest the sedimentary rocks, of early and recent date, unchanged generally, except in local position. Crossing the Pajaro Valley and entering the Santa Cruz Mountains, the main ridge is composed of the granite and serpentine rocks on which rest the fossififerous formations as those above mentioned. The primi tive series extend north into the County of San Francisco, but unlike the formations in the County of Santa Cruz ; no tertiaries, containing fossils, are to be found, except in the sandstone forming the point to the west of the North Beach, and here the Pholas and some other shells of present existing species are found. South of the city the trachytes have intruded through the slates, producing considerable disturbance both by uplift and change of structure in the latter ; on the north side of the city, similar features are to be seen, but on a more extensive scale ; among the deep excavations which have been made about Clark's Point, it is found that the stratified rocks have been tilted from the hori zontal position, and in some cases twisted and contorted into every con ceivable position ; at one time presenting a wave-like form, and in the distance of a few yards, passing from this to high angles or vertical ity. Northwest of the Telegraph Hill the active causes of this diversity in the appearance of the rocks is seen. Nearly on a line with Dupont street, and fronting the bay, is a dike of the trap rock, passing up through the sedimentary rocks above. A change of structure in the sandstone in contact with the dike is observed. This class of rocks (the volcanic) occur at frequent intervals along the bay coast on the west side, and thence into the valley of the Santa Clara. At the distance of four miles south of San Jose they form the low hills that protrude into this valley from the western side, and which are con tinued at intervals to the arroga Llagos, a distance of thirty miles beyond. In none of the lower hills on this side of the valley are the volcanic • rocks found in contact with the sedimentary formations, until after pas sing the above arroya, and then only after first breaking through fissures in the primitive rocks after reaching the Pescadero. The intrusion of these rocks among the primitive series is marked by a discoloration of the rock through which the dike has passed, some times of several inches in breadth on each side of the volcanic vein ; this is more particularly observable where the disturbed rock is of the granite class ; in that case it usually presents a brown, or reddish brown color, and is decidedly more given to decomposition than at a short dis • Doc. No. 9. j 33 tance from the intrusive material. The slates and sandstones when thus acted upon assume either a sub-crystaline or completely metamorphosed structure, and comport themselves in this particular much in the same manner as similar formations on the west sloue of the Sierra Nevada. The area covered by the metamorphic rocks in the Coast Mountains is not as extensive as those of the mining sections, but the changes, when they do occur, are equally as perfect and complete. The most extensive change of this character noticed among these mountains was that on the Alameda Creek in Sunol Valley, eight miles north-east of the Mission San Jose, and again after crossing this valley on the road to Livermore's. The slates on the creek were changed into a hard, compact rock, for the distance of one mile, and three-fourths of a mile beyond they had assumed a porphyritic character. Following this series to the right of the road, among the hills which divide Sunol's from Livermore's Valley, the greenstone-trap became largely developed, with basaltic fragments among the drift of the arro- yas. On the east side of Livermore's valley the fossiliferous rocks again made their appearance, and continued south for eight miles, beyond which to the south the mountains were not examined. The classification of the rocks in these mountains according to their relative ages will follow as next in order. CLASSIFICATION OF THE EOCKS OF THE COAST MOUN TAINS AND MONTE DIABLO KANGE. Our most northern point in this case will be Bodega Head and a line forty-three miles north of Napa City, and in this case shall avail myself of that part of Mr. Tyson's report on this part of the country, and which is contained in Senate Doc. No 47, 1st Sess. 31st Cong., this being the most northern geological section yet made. By reference to his section, we find that the primitive rocks occur as far north in the Coast Mountains as the above locality named, and that the rocks of sedimentary origin are found to rest directly on the primi tive rocks for a considerable distance east from the coast line. After reaching eight or nine miles from the coast, the recent volcanic group succeeds the primitive, when the latter is again replaced in the hills bordering the western edge of the basin ; from this view of the case it appears that all the rocks of this section are similar in their posi tions with those detailed farther south. Commencing with the lowest in order we find : FIRST. — The granite series and serpentines ; on these rest the older sedimentary rocks. SECOND. — The more recent volcanic rocks. These are more largely distributed through the Monte Diablo Range. They consist of trachytes and lavas, and have protruded through all other formations that preced ed them. These rocks form at least three-fourths of the mountain range extending from Point San Pablo to the head of the Canada San Juan, 5 34 [APPENDIX beyond which the primitive rocks again occur, and continue to the ex treme southern point visited. THIRD. — THE TERTIARIES. These complete the formations found in these mountains. For convenience of description, this class will be sub-divided into the different periods to which they belong. They will occur as follows : PERIOD. Eocene. Miocene, Pliocene. Post Pliocene. GROUP. Middle. Lower. WHERE FOUND. Calaveras County, at Murphy's, and other local ities. Bones of extinct animals, s of the Coast Mountains consist of the miocene, lioctene periods; the eocene rocks being entirely xamined ; it is also found that the miocene rocks coast line beyond a point sixteen miles north of south of this point the pliocene series predominate, established affords a clue by which we are able to 40 [APPENDIX determine to a certain extent the age of the volcanic series which has disturbed them, and fixes that age posterior to the formation of the latest of the groups. CHANGES OF LEVEL AND KIYEK TEERACES. The valley sections of this State present a general uniformity of char acter in their superficial structure, wherever found ; their surfaces are distinctly marked by a regular series of minor elevations, which give them the terraced form so peculiar to those sections. The face of these terraces'are of different heights, and the surface of each is found to have a gent|e inclination toward the streams that flow through them. In some parts of the " great valley " there are to be seen a range of hills having flat summits, which on examination are proved to have been the shores of an inland sea; these usually arise from the higher portions of the upper terraces, and where they are found near the borders of the plain, they present often trifling evidences of excessive subterranean action. These "tables" when found on the immediate borders of the plains, do not appear to have participated in the more violent disturbing forces found in the interior ; they are usually from four to five hundred feet in height, while those farther to the east attain an altitude frequently of more than two thousand. Immediately succeeding these, the first terraces of the valleys appear, and from the observations of different travelers, we learn that they are continuous into the Territory of Oregon, and probably beyond that point ; while south of California their existence is known to the northern boundary of the Province of Sinaloa in the Republic of Mexico. In these we see the evidences of gradual and probably persistent elevation over an extent of country nearly two thousand mibs in length, and in the present state of our knowledge, must be regarded as part of one of those great continental elevations that has occurred during the compara tively "recent history of the world. This State is situated nearly in the centre of this line, and from its position must partake to a greater or less extent in all the general changes of level that nay occur on either side of it; and all -observations which have been made within the last ten years have only tended to confirm this fact. Mr. Dana who has given more attention to the foimations of the valley sections of the Pacific Coast, and who probably hac better opportunities for observation from San. Francisco to the north, in speaking of them, says : " We traced these terraces from the Cowlitzto the mouth of the Sacramento, along many of the smaller streams as well as the rivers. There appears to be but two ways of accounting for these terraces, either lakes have existed along the rivers% which have birst their barriers, or the rivers have excavated the country in conseqrance of an elevation. The existence of lakes throughout a whole courtry, connected with all its rivers, is highly improbable, and required for its proof the strong est evidence. Rivers cut out their channels by a gradual process, as a country is raised above the ocean, forming with few exception a complete drainage for the land. Lakes could not exist, therefore, to the universal Doc. No. 0.} 41 9 extent implied by the facts, except, perhaps, as a sudden rise of the land from the ocean. " The formation of such lakes by an abrupt elevation in a region hav ing the ranges of heights parallel with the coast, is certainly a possibility. But the water to .make • the alluvial accumulations, must be running- water, and be in operation in its channels a long period. And how long would, such lakes exist after an elevation? If the violence attending a change of level did not open for them at once a passage, the accumula-: tionof water during a single flood would break a passage through such soft sandstone beds as occur at the mouth .-of the Sacramento." These terraces occur on the Sacramento to the distance of one hun dred and fifty miles from the sea and at this point they wer^e^as high above the level of t1Ke river as at any point lower dow^i, and have nearly the same elevation in all parts examined above the 'existing level of the stream. The flats are several miles in width, and until reaching Carquinez Straits, no other place for a barrier could have existed. In this place a permanent barrier of at least four hundred feet in height would have been required, to set the water back so as to cover the upper terrace one hundred and fifty miles above the mouth of the river, and in the second place, the lake should have a surface slope like the present bed of the river, for this is the fact with the land of the terrace — of course an impossibility. Wherever the bed of the stream was four hundred feet above the level of the sea, there the terrace should disappear ; in place of which they attain an altitude of seven hundred feet at the dis tance of two hundred and twelve miles from the head of Suisun Bay.* It is therefore impossible that one or many lakes should accomplish the results we have before us ; it is the proper effect of river floods, and the terraces must be received as indicating a change of level in the country. Was this change of level an abrupt one, or was it slow and gradual? This seems at first, a question easily answered. We may best under stand it by considering the changes that would take place during the elevation of a region of alluvial flats. If a country rise abruptly, the river will commence to work itself to a lower level, and proceed with rapidity, ending finally the very gradual slope of ordinary rivers, hav ing a descent of one or two feet per mile. At the same time, in the season of floods the river would wear into the former alluvium (now its banks) and widen its surface ; and this widening would go on at each succeeding freshet till the river had a new lower plain on its borders. But Avould not the effect be the same during a gradual rise. As the country rose slowly, the excavation of the livers bed, and latteral widen ing during freshets would go on gradually with the same results, pro ducing a deeper bed and a new lower flat, both of which would change as the change of level progressed, and in case the lower flat resisted removal in any part, the portion left standing would form a subordinate * I have in my possession at this time, specimens from this highest terrace, which is found on Weaver Creek, Trinity County. They were taken from different depths of a shaft which has been sunk through the alluvial deposit eight hundred feet ; the different strata found though are composed of clay, gravel and sand, in nearly all of which, gold has been found through out. 6 42 [APPENDIX ** ** t A %^tf& t ' v < terrace between the upper level, or that of the plain before the rise $l%an. A terrace slope may thus be formed by a gradual elevation, and also without any intermission in the process, there might be intermediate ter races in some parts of, the same region. A river terrace then, in an alluvial district cannot be considered an evidence of abrupt elevation of country in which it is found, the more especially if a uniform slope is found upon its surface. The district south of San Francisco in which extensive valleys are to be found comport themselves in all general features with those found on the Sacramento and thence into Oregon. On the .south part of the San ta Clara Valley, beyond the ranch of Cruz Cervantes, the terraced' form of the. valley is clear and distinct; in this place there were but two of these flats observable — that through which the-rSan Benito flowed, had a rise of nine feet above the level of the creek, while the higher terrace to the east rose very abruptly eighty -five feet above the former. The surface level had an inclination of twelve degrees vfrom the base of the Santa Anna Mountains towa/ds the west ; the river flowed upon the western side of the valley entirely. tTwo successive terraces were foimd on the Pajaro, the upper one still retains the marks of tide water upon its surface. The Salinas Valley exhibits the terraced form in a marked degree, and its inclination of surface from the east toward the west corresponds very closely with that just noticed as occurring on the south part of the Santa Clara and San Juan. The number of terraces on this valley are three, and have a varying width of three to five miles, the slope of each surface is gentle and smooth' throughout the entire length of the plain. It differs from the Sacramento or San Joaquin in having but one' line of -inclination or dip, the others "nave a dip from each border toward; their centre, thus giving them their basin-shaped structure. The slope of the Salinas appears to have been acquired from the recent volcanic agency that formed the Santa Anna Mountains, and those to the north as far as Pacheco's Peak ; on examination it is found that the dip of all the sedi mentary or stratified rocks of this part of the country correspond in direction, and that the dip decreases as the distance from that centre in creases. The Post Pliocene rocks of the Carmello were disturbed at this time, and the entire range of sedimentary rocks of recent date, throughout the Coast Mountains in this section of the country have suf fered in a similar manner, and undoubtedly from the same cause. • From the peculiar features manifested in the formation composing the Coast Mountains, as noted in the preceding pages, and the more recent causes of disturbance whicti have acted in this part of the range, as is found in the modifications of level extending through the valleys above noted, and the intervening mountains between these valleys ; it will ap pear very doubtful that any formation containing mineral coal will be found. The forces that have acted on this part of the county and have elevated the different rocks found on the mountain sides, have as yet developed no member of the secondary series, in which the coal forma tions are found ; but like the mountains to the north, both in the Sierra Nevada and Coast Mountains, nothing above the primitive is to be seen, Doc. No. 9.] 43 except the tertiaries, in which no coal beds of extent have yet been discovered. From a careful examination of this part of the country, with this object in view, I feel no hesitation in saying that coal will riot be found in any part of the Coast Mountains south of the thirty-fifth parallel of north latitude ; what there may be south of this point, I know nothing having never visited it. It is not unfrequeiit in passing over the country to hear of beds of min eral coal ; during the past season I have visited four such localities, and, as was anticipated, each of them proved to be merely small beds of lig nite, and two of them hardly deserving that name. One of these deposits proved to be but a bed of leaves, having a thickness of about three inches|>resting upon a tertiary sandstone containing marine shells, and covered with twelve feet of a sandy alluvium. This is 'one of those coal beds which has figured so largely in the public prints of the State during the past year, and has induced several gentlemen to pay the locality a visit, and to return as deeply disappointed as their previous anticipations were elevated. The report of coal veins in the Coast Mountains must be received with many grains of allowance, and at the best, none but tertiary deposits will be found, and these, even should they exist, would be capable of supplying but a limited demand, and that usually of an inferior quality. SOILS OF THE VALLEY SANTA CLARA AND SHORES OF THE BAY SAN FRANCISCO. The character of mountains on the borders of valleys, afford a good criterion to judge of the capabilities of the soils found at their base. It is therefore not difficult to form a correct opinion of the constituents of a soil, once knowing the nature of the rocks in adjoining sections, and consequently their adaptation to the various purposes of agriculture. The more rapid disintegration of some classes of rocks compared to others, will form a striking feature in the productiveness of the soil with which they enter as a component part, their chemical constituents, adapt ing them to agricultural employment, or rendering them totally unfit for these purposes, without the addition of some agent not found as an inte gral of their composition. It is therefore not surprising that in passing over a range of valley, or mountainous district, to find so many and diversified features presenting themselves often in adjoining localities; it is not unfrequent to find a perfect transition in the indigenous pro ductions of the soil, occurring in the distance of a few hundred yards. These peculiar features are best exhibited among the native grains and grasses, and occur alike, on the valley bottoms or on ascending a hill side. Thus, on ascending a hill, at whose base may be found a calcare ous rock, resting on any one of the plutonic series, the native product at the base, and within the direct range of the limestone, may be the wild oat, almost as soon as these rocks are passed, and you enter the granite or trapean group, the cereal ceases to grow, and is replaced by the native grasses in some of their varieties, or if the rocks succeeding 44 [APPENDIX the former, should belong to the serpentine group, a useless shrub will often be the resulting growth. Equally as perfect and marked are the phases presented on the valley bottoms alone; passing through, the same transitions as above, and on an examination of the sources from "which the soil has been derived, it will be found that the mineral constituents of both sections presenting those changes', will differ in a material degree. Take the upper terrace - of any one of. our large valleys, and by following this to a lower terrace, the first principal change occurring will be found near the junction of the former, with the latter, and this as it recedes from the' former, will be found productive of a widely different and greater variety of plants than the hill-side or upper terrace preceding it, and the native nroduc- tions of these, not unfrequently disappear entirely. ** Another feature equally interesting and instructive, is found iri transi tions of the varieties of production on- the same line of valjey, which has derived its soils from the same suite of rocks, this might easily be mistaken for a change in the mineral constituents of such sbil, which is not the case, but the modification of growths in this instance a£e attribu table to the more uniform and equal distribution and communication of the material composing the soil, thus rendering its chemical constituents better adapted to assimilation, and the consequent production of variety as well as quality and quantity. The soils on the Bay San Francisco differ much on its eastern and western sides ; both borders of the Bay present the tertiary series, but both do not present the trapean rocks to the same degree of develop ment ; this, then, of course, will cause a distinctive and marked differ ence in the productive capabilities of either shore. It will be found that in all the soils which have been .derived, in whole, or in part, from rocks more recent than the tertiary group, that a more extensive and va ried adaptation to agricultural purposes will be present ; this will be particularly manifest in those sections where the tertiaries, containing organic remains, enter somewhat largely into the -components of "the soil produced from such sources. We often meet an extensive and even tract of country lying atothe base of a range of hills of the character named above, which "are found not to possess so high a degree of fertility as an adjoining section, yet both have derived their soil from the same sources ; it becomes not only interesting but important to ascertain the cause of such a discrepancy, and an attentive examination will often point out a natural obstruction of a mechanical nature wjhich has thus been the cause of the impover ishment which may be present. In this case a barrier will often be found among the foothills which has prevented the uniform distribution of the ' disintegrated rocks above, rendering the plain within its line less productive, rather than the introduction of any new agent, except, per haps, that derived from the rocks forming that barrier, the amount of which would be inconsiderable, compared to the mass of alluvium beyond. In illustration of this a single case only will be mentioned. On the Valley- Santa Clara a few miles east of San Jose, the mountains are cap ped with fossiliferous sandstone for miles in extent, north and south. — On examining the slopes of these hills and the broad ravines among them, a rich and deep soil wafc found to cover the whole, and the ve'ge- Doc. No. 9.] 45 tation growing upon them, bore a just relation to the character of the ground on which they flourished. Passing to the westward toward the valley it was found that the same character of soil continued to the first hills rising from the plain, these bearing an altitude of one hundred feet above its level. On reaching the summit of these hills, the rich, mellow soil to the east instantly gave out, and in its place a heavy, clayey cov ering was found upon the surface for a considerable distance into the valley ; this transition occurred within so short a distance that I was led to examine more particularly the cause producing it, and accordingly followed the line of these hills until an outcrop of these rocks were found. ; they consisted of aluminous and chlontic slates, having a high inclination and dipping to the west ; from their position they presented a perfect barrier to the passage of the richer soil of the hills passing on to the valley in any other junction than north and south. As far as this , line of slates extended, the valley beyond partook, in a greater or less de gree, of the character that would be produced by their disintegration, and ill adapted generally to purposes of agriculture unless by artificial application of reclaiming agents and tillage. As soon as the slates began to disappear in the foothills, the character of the soil on the plain be yond assumed a different appearance, and a marked and corresponding change in its vegetable productions. A mechanical impediment simply is the cause of unproductiveness in such cases, and in instances of this kind, the remedy usually abounds in abundant quantities and at short distances from the points where it may be required. On the south-east shores of the Bay San Francisco, there are large areas of land that at the present time are considered useless for agricul tural purposes, from their low position and semi-argilaceous character ; they have often been denominated " mud flats," and heretofore have been considered unadapted even to grazing for sheep. These flats gen erally extend (toward the bay) one or two miles from what are consid ered available and good agricultural lands. Their general appearance to the passer-by is such as would not be likely to impress a person very strongly in their favor, as lands retaining much fertility, but from their superficial appearance would be regarded as a poor representation only of a salt meadow, productive of little else than the common samphire. But such is not the fact and if experience and experiment have any val ue or weight, they will be thrown in the balance to the favor of those lands ; experiments have been made during the past season on these sections, which cannot fail to convince us of the fact, that the opinions heretofore entertained respecting the available character of a large por tion of these districts, are entirely erroneous. A single experiment illus trating their capacity for production if properly tilled, will be giverj^ Near Uniontown, in the County of Alameda, several acres of land, producing the samphire on their flats, was broken up and planted to corn ; in one case it was sowed in drills ; the corn continued to flourish until September which was the last time I saw it ; and at this time the stalk of that in the drills had acquired an average heighth of about nine feet. On the south side of the arroya Alameda another field was plant ed in hills, which AY us equal, if not superior in heighth. The soil, when broken up, is rich and highly productive in other grains, notwith- 46 [APPENDIX standing the meagre appearance it presents prior to tillage, and will in a few yeaTs be as successfully and largely cultivated as any other of the valley sections. The saline lands of the interior sections are also of the same character, to a certain extent, and if properly tilled are equally productive. Near ' the rancho San Felipe, Santa Clara County, a simi lar circumstance was met with ; the corn grown upon these lands was being harvested in September and produced* a full and well-formed ear, proving not only adaptation of soil, but' climate' — for the production of this staple in California. The latter case, the lands were 225 feet above the sea> and the field on ever}' side except the south-east was covered with a thick growth of the salt grasses and other kindred plants (sam phire) and when free from water the lands were covered with a saline incrustation. Under a proper course of treatment these lands will be made availa ble for the purposes of the agriculturalist, and bur already large do main of arable lands thus much increased. The situation of these lands in the interior is such, that they may be easily reclaimed should they ever fall within the jurisdiction of the State, which undoubtedly they will under the law regulating "saline lands." In the counties of San Francisco, Santa Clara and Alameda the wet land that may be made available by drainage is about seventy square miles, exclusive of the " saline lands " at the southern part of the County of Santa Clara. Most of the valley sections of this range of country is arable land, and that which' is not can easily be made so when required ; the agents for bringing this about being found in the adjoining hills to the east.— The character of -the soil and climate adapts it to all the productions of temperate climates, and where local position modified the climate of any section, it is found capable of producing plants of the tropical latitudes. The extreme south-eastern part of this valley would be adapted to the growth of foreign fruits and other products, but it must be beyond the influence of the cold sea- wind that passes inland across the range of lower hills which divide the Salinas, Pajaro, and Santa Clara Valleys, the effect of which would be to blight the fruit, though the plant or tree might continue to thrive. The low hills that flank the east side of the valley contain all the ele ments required for the culture of tropical plants and fruits ; the climate and soil will be found adapted, and the only agent that appears in the least to be wanting is water sufficient to supply the demands of those plants. From the appearance of small lagoons and rivulets at different •elevations it is presumable that a sufficient quantity of this agent may be found a short distance below the surface. As a ,geiieral rule the mountains lying upon ,the east border of the vsdey Santa Clara are covered with a soil superior to that of the plains, and of much greater depth. I have measured the depths of these soils in many places, and where it is well developed have found it varying from four to eleven feet for miles continuous; its extreme fertility pro duces heavy crops of the native grains and grasses which annually con tribute to its increase by their decomposition. • Although these lands 'are situated within the reach of the sea-breeze from the Bay of San Francisco, they are protected from its cold by the Doc. No. 9.] 47 jj slope of the hills and the modifications of its temperature acquired in its passage down the bay before reaching the northern portion of the valley. So much is the temperature increased that an addition of ten degrees is often acquireM in its transit from San .'Francisco to .the head of the valley, a 'distance little rising fifty miles. This increase of tem perature in the air is accompanied with an increase in its capacity for moisture, hence it is usual to find a slight aqueous haze, which results from the condensation of its moisture, hanging about this entire range of hills during the summer months, and is usually seen early in the morning. At this time and for a short time after sun-rise the leaves of plants in these hills are covered with moisture, when no trace of this deposit is observable on the plains. The foreign horticulturist seems to • have siezed upon the natural advantages which these mountains present for the culture of the vine and other fruits, prefering these elevated situa tions to the lower plain lands, the climate and soil being more congenial to their growth. The altitude at which the first qualities of the grape will flourish in these mountains (Monte Diablo Eange) is seventeen hun dred feet above the sea, the fruit produced equals that grown in lower situations ; the temperature at this elevation through the night is higher than on the plains at their base and sufficiently comfortable to sleep with out shelter. But a very few years will elapse before these "barren" mountains will yield a handsome income to the planter, and a large revenue to the State, from the taxable property that will be found in these mountains, arising from the prodution of the vine alone ; some idea of the extent to which it is now being propagated may be obtained when it is stated that nearly two hundred thousand sets have been put into the ground during the past year, and on one ranch alone over* twelve thousand new sets were placed in the grdund last season, in addition to those already in bearing condition on the same farm. The absence of timber in these mountains is one of the most serious objections to the settler, if this objection can be removed there is no reason to doubt but that large tracts of this fertile district would com mand a population that would soon approximate that on the plains. It would riot be difficult to produce a forest growth of trees upon these mountains, one that would prove useful as well as ornamental, conduc ing to health, comfort and luxury, as well as profit. The history of the Guava furnishes us with some facts on this point that are well worthy of notice ; the trci1 is of rapid growth, spreading itself over large districts in a very few years. In Mexico it attains a height of forty feet, and grows at elevations of five thousand feet ; its wood is used for fuel and many other purposes, and from its fruit the guava jelly is manufactured, and forms an extensive article of commerce. Fifty years ago this tree was introduced at the Sandwich and Society Islands ; it has in that short period of time formed one of the principal forest trees of those islands, and reaches the summit of their highest hills. A tree of this kind introduced into our timberless hill$ would in a short time render the barren aspect they now present, more pleasing and profitable as well as useful. There can be but little doubt that this tree will flourish in this country, as it is found so to do in a climate 48 [APPENDIX equally cool as' that in which it would be required here. Other varieties of fruit bearing trees Qf foreign climates will flourish in these mountain; among them may b^ mentioned the date, prune and fig, and in this country we possess an advantage in the preparation of the two latter fruits for the market, which is seldom found even in countries where they flourish best, viz : a clear, dry air, or containing but a small degree of moisture, a most essential requisite in forming a -good commercial article. Often the entire fruit crop is ruined in the drying process in countries where these fruits abound, (and where all conditions for their propaga tion are not more fully developed than in this country,) from the pres ence' of too great a quantity of moisture in the air, a circumstance that cannot exist in this country south of the county of San Francisco. We have the most ample proofs of the capabilities of our soils in the interior, in the production of the foreign fruits. In addition to the above, the olive and the almond flourish and produce plentifully, and though the latter is not indigenous, the luxuriance with which it grows and its plentiful production of fruit, must be received only as another evidence of the fact above stated. The value of these fruits as regards their quality, suifers no deterioration from having been naturalized to our climate, but in the case of the latter named fruit, it is found to be materially benefitted by the change, for as it loses none of its flavor it becomes the more valuable from its increase of size, being nearly double that of the ordinary fruit of the msarket. Respecting the main body* of lands on the valley and shores of the bay, but very little of which is not adapted to agricultural purposes, it may be -said to cover an area little short of six hundred square miles, nearly all of which is well adapted to the cultivation of the cereals and root crops. The higher table of the valley produces excellent corn, and the season though dry permits this crop to mature well. I observed several corn fields on the high terrace of the valley last season, flourish ing , well at altitudes of three hundred and sixty to four hundred and ten feet, and in localities where it would hardly be -supposed from its external appearance, that moisture sufficient to rear a blade of grass could be found. The cause of this productivness in these localities, is in a great measure attributable to the existence of a small quantity of sulphate of lime in these apparently dry soils, derived from a limestone formation in these mountains, and which extends south beyond the Almaden district. The detritus of this rock is found mingled with fragments 'of other rocks containing ferruginous pyrites in a decompos ing state, hence'the key to its appearance in this locality, and in the case before it serves the purpose of an absorbent of moisture, thus materially facilitating the growth of crops in these sections. VALLEY OF THE SALINAS. This valley is situated south of the Pajaro River, and is separated from the Santa Clara by a spur of the 'Monte Diablo Range which sink into a range of low hills forming a divide between the former and the Pajaro Yalley also. The leagth of the Salinas is about ninety-five miles. The main course of the valley is about south-east by east ; and is coursed Doc. No. 9. 49 by one river (the Salinas) for its entire length. The stream is situated on the west side of the valley for the first fifty miles of its course, after which it crosses the valley a short distance above the Soledad Mission, at an angle of forty degrees to the main axis of the plain. The physical appearance of thislarge plain differs much from that of the Santa Clara or the Pajaro ; when viewed from its centre it has a gentle slope from the east toward the west ; but more minute examination exhibits a ter raced form to the plain, similar to those observed on the Sacramento, and are three in number, and each possessing a soil of different degrees of fertility and value. The river has a fall of about two feet to the mile, and has acquired its present position within a very recent period, run ning as it does amongst the most recent tertiary rocks, and alluvium in its more northern portions. Near its sources there are several small streams putting into it, which furnish water throughout the year. The bed of the stream is composed of a fine whitish quicksand, which ren ders it dangerous to ford at times, and it is seldom attempted, except at localities which are used for this purposo. A large portion of the valley, within eight or ten miles of the coast, and on its south-east border and centre, is made up of low wet lands, covered with willows and tule, these terminate in lagoons and sloughs as they approach the coast, and contain a sufficient depth df water to float a medium sized vessel to the Bay of Monterey. The only obstacle that renders these waters innavi gable for some distance into the interior of the valley, are the bars of drift sand which are thrown up by the surf on the coast : a good and substantial breakwater, constructed at some one of these points, would render navigation safe, and materially enhance the value of the public and private property of this section of country, and be the means of affording not only much needed facilities of transportation in the pro ductions of the interior to market, but afford inducements for the per manent settlement of this immense tract of country (now almost, it might be said, uninhabited and unimproved,) which this, or some other equally efficient measure would be the means of consummating in a short period of time. The extent of land in the interior that would be affected by a measure of this kind would be very great ; it being not less than one hundred and fifty miles in length, and possessing capacities for agricul tural production equal to any in the State. This will appear the more evident and necessary, when we find that the lower bottoms above the Salinas Valley are capable of producing a wheat crop, (at thirty -two bushels per acre) sufficient to meet the demands of a population num bering three times that of the present within this State : — say nine hun dred thousand. A district of our State presenting capacity and advantages of this character, and crippled as it is for the means of transporting its pro ductions to our markets, should command some attention, and such, at least, as would have a tendency to induce an early and permanent set tlement of such lands, if nothing more ; and this the more especially as a considerable area of the over-flowed and saline lands of these plains must ultimately fall Avithin the jurisdiction of the State. ' 50 [APPENDIX SOILS OF THE SALINAS. ? ; : The soils of this valley have been derived from the primitive forma tions on both sides of the plains : that derived from the granite series on the coast side is coarse and easily permeable to water ; this obtains more particularly in the vicinity ofthe Grabilan mountains, and this va riety of soil does not extend beyond the high "mesa" on the eastern side. The trapean rocks and limestone of this range exert an important influence in modifying the sterility usually attendant on soils derived from the detritus of the granites, and in this case they exist in sufficient quantities to render those soils productive on the upper terrace of the valley. The productions of each of these terraces differs in a material degree, arising principally from two immediate causes ; the first mois ture, the second, the finer disintegration of the material composing the soils ; to these may be added a third, which sometimes exerts a wide influence on the lower bottom. The upper terrace produces the native wild oat for the most part?, or a wirj- tough grass ; the oat flourishes to the exclusion of the latter on a brown red soil composed of loam mixed with the harsher material derived from the granite, and wherever this loamy matter is found to diminish in quantity, a corresponding increase in the native wire grass is found. This rule was found to hold good in the entire length of the plain on its eastern border. . Passing to the second terrace, plants of a different character are found. The oat is found to a considerable extent on some parts of this, but is usually succeeded by another variety of grass which seems much better adapted for feed to animals, and usually grows very thick and matted ; among this the common bargrass, which increases in quantity as the low er terrace is approached, and which animals are extremely fond of eat ing, in preference to the oat when placed side by side ; on the western edge of the second terrace, the wild mustard abounds, covering thou sands of acres, and growing to the height of ten to fourteen feet, form ing an impenetrable jungle to man or beast for miles in extent; wherev er the settler has succeeded in eradicating this article from the soil, it has been found to produce abundant crops of grains or roots, and if anything superior in some cases to the lands of the lower bottom, The lower part of the terrace on which the mustard is usually found in greatest quantities, is sufficiently moist for the propagation of any crops that may be necessary to be placed upon them. Water is obtainable within a few feet of the surface on any part of it. - Passing to the lower terrace, we find the principal native productions to be the burgrass and a variety of the rumex, mingled with a much greater variety of others than is to be found on any other part of these bottoms. On the higher positions the mustard also abounds in conside rable quantities. Some parts of this terrace are arenaceous, being cov ered to the depth of two feet with a loosej fine sand, usually the result of a heavy freshet , and not otherwise. In this is found a third cause for the varieties which these bottoms produce. An interesting exhibi tion of this occurred from the freshet of last winter, on the Castro Eanch, adjoining the Wacional. At this place about three hundred acres were covered with this sand to the depth of two and a-half feet ; on a portion Doe. No. 9.] 51 of it a fine field of corn had been raised the previous year, also wheat and barley. The land formerly produced a heavy growth of mustard, but was- reclaimed- from this in part by tillage. The effect of the over flow was to destroy every vestige of former vegetation, and in its place a thick growth of willows had sprung up that were equally impenetra ble with the mustard on the plains. At the time I visited them they had attained a height of about four feet. This immense deposit of sand on the arable land of this part the lower bottom is covered by the obstruc tions on the beach of the coast to the free egress of the waters from the interior during freshets, and until they shall be removed, some of the best lands of this valley will be constantly subjected to this ruinous result in all coming time. The amount of land liable to be thus buried beneath this arenaceous deposit is great, and as it comprises a large part of the most valuable property in this section of country, it demands consideration. The quantity of arable lands contained within the Salina Plains, is es timated at about seven hundred and eighty square miles, this being com prised in the lower terraces only ; the upper terrace cannot strictly be considered as available for agriculture, but it more properly a grazing country with very few exceptions. The above quantities are divided as follows : the lower terrace or river bottom contains three hundred, twenty miles, and the second terrace about four hundred and sixty, and enjoy ing a climate in its different sections which will be found adapted to the growths of the extremes of temperate zones. PAJAEO VALLEY. . This valley is situated on the coast, and is bounded on the north and east by the southern part of the Santa Cruz Mountains, and on the south by the low hills forming spur of the Gabilan Range, and which divide it from the Salinas Plains. The valley is about eight miles in length, and about four in breadth on an average, exclusive of the foot hills, or low, table hills, on its west border; the Pajaro River forming the bound ary of the counties Monterey, Santa Cruz, Santa Clara, has its rise near San Felipe, and flows in a westerly direction through the low hills at the base of the mountains, thence along the northwest border of the valley for about two miles, where crosses the latter within about a quarter of a mile of the town of Watsonville, and reaches the sea at a point south ten degrees west of the latter locality, four miles distant. This plain is of comparatively recent formation, and formerly was a well-sheltered bay of the sea ; the sandstone formation in the hills to the north and east are of the same age as that now forming the coast line between it and the town of, Santa Cruz, the fossils of which of pre sent existing species ; the forces that were instrumental in elevating this section have been gradual, as is evinced in the highly disturbed po sition of the sedimentary rocks along the coast for thirty-five miles ; in these localities, it is difficult, in some instances to detect any inclination of the strata whatever, and it is only in the mountain sections that this disturbance becomes markedly manifest ; the uplift of this entire sec tion has taken place since the rocks on which the tertiaries rest assumed 52 [APPENIHX assumed the solid state, as no instance of change in the structure of any of these rocks is. apparent at the points of contact. The under-lying rock is primitive and of the granite class, and this continues for eight een miles north of Santa Cruz. In this valley and also in the vicinity of Santa Cruz the soils are made up of a mixture of the primitive and sedimentary formations, thus rendering them fertile and easily tilled. In the lower lands the soils are much better developed, yet the hilly lands are capable of producing abundant root crops and grains. The cause that render these hill-sides adapted to agriculture is the same as that found on the high terrace of the Santa Clara, viz.: a quantity of sulphate of lime acting as an absorbent, and retaining sufficient moisture to sup port a healthy nutrition in the plant. The entire range of hills lying between the Pajaro and south part of the Santa Clara, and also a large portion of that range between the Sa linas and Pajaro are well adapted to cropping, particularly for winter grains, and. in some instances they are preferable to the valley lands, and would, if brought under cultivation, produce better crops than the plains ; they are also much/ better adapted to the culture of fruit-trees than valley sections, possessing all the elements of which the valleys are composed, and which render them fertile, they possess the advantage of sheltering the young tree from the effects of the strong winds that pass over these sections from the sea, and also its chilling effects on the young blossoms and fruit. There is no part of this State that I have visited, which possesses the same natural advantages for fruit culture as are to be found in the dis trict above alluded to ; while artificial irrigation is necessary in other parts of the State, in order to sustain the vitality of the tree ; this is fur nished regularly each night by aqueous exhalation from ;the ocean, and extending some thirty miles into the interior; during the months of July and August, last summer, an opportunity to observe this part was offered, and I found that over this entire section a sufficient amount of moisture was deposited each night to wet the leaves of plants very sen sibly, and during the heavier fogs, a quantity sufficient to keep the ground wet under medium sized trees until near mid-day ; a person en tering this section of country in the morning would suppose from the appearance of the ground that a light rain had occurred during the night, and it was not unfrequent that I was obliged to dry my blankets in the morning previous to saddling my horse. The soil is equally Adapted to their propagation being of texture that will permit the expansion of the roots oelow the surface without the ne cessity of sinking deep into the earth, as is the case in many parts o fthe country, where even the most hardy indigenous trees are found to send their roots to great depths in order to obtain nourishment and support for the trunk. It is surprising that with the advantages presented for the cultivation of American fruit-trees in this section of the State, that so little attention has been given to this subject in this vicinity; heavy losses have been sustained by individuals in attempting to rear trees in many parts of the country, and this has, in a great measure, prevented others from embarking in this enterprize ; but in most of those cases where failures have followed the attempt, it has been from a soil ill- Doc. No. 9,] 53 adapted to their propagation, or in localities where floods have had the effect to destroy them. These injurious influences are absent here, and there is every thing that can be desired to invite the pomologist in this ornamental and use ful enterprize. . . Fruit culture is to form an important branch in the industrial pursuits of this country ; the lands best adapted these purposes in other localities than those mentioned, are to be found in the south and middle portions of the County San Francisco, from the San Mateo to the Francisquito and toward the foot of the mountains to the west. North of San Fran cisco, the upper portions of Napa Valley and Sonoma are equally as good as those of some parts of the county of Santa Cruz, affording much the same general characteristics as those of the latter county. LIVERMOKE VALLEY. This valley is situated in the central portion of mountains lying east of the bay San Francisco and valley Santa Clara ; it divides these moun tains into two distinct lines of ridges, and runs rather obtusely to their course. The different names that are applied to this valley convey the idea that there are as many distinct valleys, but such is .not the case, as no hills intervene to destroy the general level throughout its entire extent. From its extreme north to its extreme southern terminus the valley is about sixteen miles in length and from five to seven in breadth. On the north it is bounded by Monte Diablo and its adjoining hills, separating it from Pacheco Valley ; on the east by a single high ridge separating it from the plains of the San Joaquin ; on the south by the hills near the northern part of the Canada Corall, and on the west by the high ridge separating it from the Bay San Francisco. A large por tion of the northern centre of this valley is occupied by a lagoon filled with tule, and the latter extend for a considerable distance from its borders. The soil of the valley is generally good on the borders, but toward the centre it is either wet and heavy and withal somewhat saline, on the higher parts dry and gravelly. The entire district appears much better adapted to grazing lands than to agriculture, unless water for irrigation is obtained through artesian borings, and from the appearance of the valley there is but little question that an abundant supply is obtainable from these sources. The altitude of the valley is four hundred and thirty feet above the sea ; and derives the principal portion of its sup: plies of water from the slopes connecting with Monte Diablo. On the south and southwest sides, among the hills, considerable masses of the metamorphic rocks are to be seen, and the appearance of quartz veins is more frequent in this vicinity than , in any other section of these moun tains that were observed. On all the hills that surround this basin, are to be found fossiliferous sond&ones, and among the alluvium, in some localities, are to be found considerable quantities of fragmentary shells, among which a large Gry- phea has heretofore existed in considerable quantities. Some specimens of the latter fossil are to be found in the office of the U. S. Land Survey, 52 [ assumed the solid state, as no instance of change in the structure of any of these rocks is. apparent at the points of contact. The under-lying rock is primitive and of the granite class, and this continues for eight een miles north of Santa Cruz. In this valley and also in the vicinity of Santa Cruz the soils are made up of a mixture of the primitive and sedimentary formations, thus rendering them fertile and easily tilled. In the lower lands the soils are much better developed, yet the hilly lands are capable of producing abundant root crops and grains. The cause that 'render these hill-sides adapted to agriculture is the same as that found on the high terrace of the Santa Clara, viz.: a quantity of sulphate of lime acting as an absorbent, and retaining sufficient moisture to sup port a healthy nutrition in the plant. The entire range of hills lying between the Pajaro and south part of the Santa Clara, and also a large portion of that range between the Sa linas and Pajaro are well adapted to cropping, particularly for winter grains, and in some instances they are preferable to the valley lands, and would, if brought under cultivation, produce better crops than the plains ; they are also much/ better adapted to the culture of fruit-trees than valley sections, possessing all the elements of which the valleys are composed, and which render them fertile, they possess the advantage of sheltering the young tree from the effects of the strong winds that pass over these sections from the sea, and also its chilling effects on the young blossoms and fruit. There is no part of this State that I have visited, which possesses the same natural advantages for fruit culture as are to be found in the dis trict above alluded to ; while artificial irrigation is necessary in other parts of the State, in order to sustain the vitality of the tree ; this is fur nished regularly each night by aqueous exhalation from .the ocean, and extending some thirty miles into the interior ; during the months of July and August, last summer, an opportunity to observe this part was offered, and I found that over this entire section a sufficient amount of moisture was deposited each night to wet the leaves of plants very sen sibly, and during the heavier fogs, a quantity sufficient to keep the ground wet under medium sized trees until near mid-day ; a person en tering this section of country in the morning would suppose from the appearance of the ground that a light rain had occurred during the night, and it was not unfrequent that I was obliged to dry my blankets in the morning previous to saddling my horse. The soil is equally Adapted to their propagation being of texture that will permit the expansion of the roots oelow the surface without the ne cessity of sinking deep into the earth, as is the case in many parts o fthe country, where even the most hardy indigenous trees are found to send their roots to great depths in order to obtain nourishment and support for the trunk. It is surprising that with the advantages presented for the cultivation of American fruit-trees in this section of the State, that so little attention has been given to this subject in this vicinity; heavy losses have been sustained by individuals in attempting to rear trees in many parts of the country, and this has, in a great measure, prevented others from embarking in this enterprize ; but in most of those cases where failures have followed the attempt, it has been from a soil ill- Doc. No. 9.] 53 adapted to their propagation, or in localities where floods have had the effect to destroy them. These injurious influences are absent here, and there is every thino- that can be desired to invite the pomologist in this ornamental and use ful enterprize. Fruit culture is to form an important branch in the industrial pursuits of this country ; the lands best adapted these purposes in other localities than those mentioned, are to be found in the south and middle portions of the County San Francisco, from the San Mateo to the Francisquito and toward the foot of the mountains to the west. North of San Fran cisco, the upper portions of JSTapa Valley and Sonoma are equally as good as those of some parts of the county of Santa Cruz, affording much the same general characteristics as those of the latter county. LIVEKMOKE VALLEY. This valley is situated in the central portion of mountains lying east of the bay San Francisco and valley Santa Clara ; it divides these moun tains into two distinct lines of ridges, and runs rather obtusely to their course. The different names that are applied to this valley convey the idea that there are as many distinct valleys, but such is .not the case, as no hills intervene to destroy the general level throughout its entire extent. From its extreme north to its extreme southern terminus the valley is about sixteen miles in length and from five to seven in breadth. On the north it is bounded by Monte Diablo and its adjoining hills, separating it from Pacheco Valley ; on the east by a single high ridge separating it from the plains of the San Joaquin ; on the south by the hills near the northern part of the Canada Corall, and on the west by the high ridge separating it from the Bay San Francisco. A large por tion of the northern centre of this valley is occupied by a lagoon filled with tule, and the latter extend for a considerable distance from its borders. The soil of the valley is generally good on the borders, but toward the centre it is either wet and heavy and withal somewhat saline, on the higher parts drv and gravelly. 'The entire district appears much better adapted to grazing lands than to agriculture, unless water for irrigation is obtained through artesian borings, and from the appearance of the valley there is but little question that an abundant supply is obtainable from these sources. The altitude of the valley is four hundred and thirty feet above the sea ; and derives the principal portion of its sup: plies of water from the slopes connecting with Monte Diablo. On the south and southwest sides, among the hills, considerable masses of the metamorphic rocks are to be seen, and the appearance of quartz veins is more frequent in this vicinity than . in any other section of these moun tains that were observed. On all the - hills that surround this basin, are to be found fossiliferous sond$tones, and among the alluvium, in some localities, are to be found considerable quantities of fragmentary shells, among which a large Gry- phea has heretofore existed in considerable quantities. Some specimens of the latter fossil are to be found in the office of the U. S. Land Survey, 54 [APPENDIX * but none that were sufficiently perfect for cabinet specimens could be obtained at the time I visited! the locality from which the above speci mens were taken. These monstrous bivalves retain the animal in a pet rified state most perfectly preserved, and it is evident from their distri bution and appearance that they must have been elevated above the surface of the waters during life ; the evidence of this exists in the fact that nearly every shell contains the animal, which if they had been raised above the surface after life had been destroyed the probabilities are that very few animals would be found. The route from this valley to the San Joaquin plains lays through a narrow pass emerging from the southwestern side of the valley- The pass retains the name of the valley into which it enters, and is about sixteen miles (inclusive of that part of the valley . through which it passes,) in length : at this point you enter the San Joaquin Valley at a point .known as the. Elk Horn. The house at this place is two hundred and twenty feet above the sea. A gentle rise of the land occurs here for about half a mile, and then the valley slopes gently towards the river. The road to the river follows the course of the tule bottoms for about twelve miles, and then enters an Encinal of oaks, which continue to the river. One of the chief points of interest in this vicinity is the extensive area covered by tule ; they commence near the junction of the river and Suisun bay, and extend to a point about eighteen miles south of Castoria on the west sicj.e of the river; having an average breadth of about, twelve miles. From the appearance of the country in which they are situated, I had formed an opinion that a large proportion of these lands might be easily reclaimed, and if so, they must ultimately become valu able property. With this view the altitude above the sea was taken in several places, on my return to the mountains to the west, and the aver age of those results gave the sum of eighty feet above tide level. Should it prove that this level is maintained to any considerable distance and the general character of those lands favor this presumtion, or should there be a depression to the amount of twenty -five feet from their border to their centre, which is rather improbable, there will still remain fifty- five feet fall to reclaim them by drainage. If properly drained, these lands could be applied to the culture of rice or other vegetable productions, and judging from the character of the soils immediately about them, they would prove highly prolific. And here in passing I will mention one incident in relation to the capacity of the soil for production, that may prove not only interesting but useful, in illustration of erroneous opinions heretofore expressed relative to lands on the San Joaquin Valley, and which perhaps has exerted as great an influence in preventing the permanent settlement of these plains as perhaps anything that has been urged against them. Toward the foot-hills of the mountains to the west, is a low table of the valley ap parently destitute of water, either for the support of vegetation or animal life, in some parts this land^has a slight gravelly appearance, but this is not general ; on one ranch situated on this plateau there ha* been two full crops of barley harvested from the same piece- of ground, and when I visited this place in October the third crop was then being har- Doc. No. 9.] 55 rowed in; the whole having occurred within the term of two-hundr d and seventy -three days. As soon as this fact became known, settlers were soon found to be oil their way thither, and at that time there was not a farm to be found vacant for a considerable distance . around. There is no reason for the supposition that land on the west side of the river and toward the moun tains is unsuited for cultivation, for the fact before us is a sufficient proof to the contrary. Having noticed the more general characteristics of the geology of that part of the country embraced in the examinations of the past season, and also their more general adaptation to the industrial departments of agriculture, it now remains to speak of their resources and the uses to which they may be applied. MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE COAST MOUNTAINS'. The minerals of these mountains are widely dispersed throughout their entire extent ; they consist principally of copper, iron, lead, silver, gold, rnickel, and antimony, with agates, calcedony, and many others too numerous to mention here, but will be found under their proper head. The metallic minerals are widely distributed ; the ores of copper are found in the form of carbonate, sulphuret, and silicate, among the Santa Cruz Mountains ; in the vicinity of Rincon Point, south of San Francisco, it is found sparingly disseminated among the trap and metamorphosed rocks of that section. In the mountains, south of Monterey, it is also found over a limited area, and again in the lower hills on the east side of the Salinas Valley, near the Rancho Alisal. At this locality it occurs in an extensive quartz dike that has forced its way through all the other rocks both igneous and sedimentary ; the forms in which it appears are the blue and green carbonate, in crystals, the sulphuret, the latter found in small masses detached from the gangiie. In the same rocks is to be found considerable quantities of iron pf the recent sedimentary rocks of the Coast Moun tains, and the character of some of the intruded masses that has pro duced the tilting and dislocations, their identity with the stratified rocks on the eastern border of the great valleys, leads us to the conclusion that the causes of uplift which have been found among the latter, --were continued partially to the coast in the same period. With respect to the agents that played, an important part in these turbulent periods, there can be but little trouble in their discrimination, and ample testimony is found to identify them with the recent group of igneous rocks under consideration, and if these conclusions are correct, the character for per manency of these viens is beyond all cavil or doubt. Future investigation may disprove this position, but until it. is made evident that the veins of the recent group have been disturbed by other and more recent vulcanic agents on either side of the g^reat rivers, we can regard them in no- other view than being among the last of an ex tensive series of disturbances which have operated principally through a large portion of the west flank of the Sierra Nevada at a comparatively recent period in the geological history of this part of the continent. The metalliferous character of this .group is in no way inferior to that of the older ranges of these rocks; the proof of this rests in the fact, that some of the best placers yet found in this country are included within its boundaries among the alluvium and drift deposits of the ter tiary epoch. The gold generally found in these placers is of that char acter known among the miners as "rough or recent gold," having suffered but little from attrition by water; but it is not unfrequent to find the recent metal associated with that which has been much worn by attrition, and the two qualities thus appearing in the same placer range, can be regarded only as having different orri